# THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)



## scottyroo

Figured I would get the hands-on thread going to augment the rumors thread that has been going.

Epson HC5050UB has started to get into customers' hands on the eve of being officially announced next week on April 9th. 

What we know:

Price: $2,999.00 (made it to the sub $3k forum by $1!) 

Same chassis as 4000, 5040UB, 4010, 4050 etc etc etc

The big one... finally 18gbps HDMI

Early reviews of the EU equivalent TW-9400 are starting to make their way online

I posted a quick video of my test bench I will be using to review and compare to BenQ's new HT5550. Stay tuned.


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## ckronengold

You needed a few hours of sleep. Pretty sure thats the HT5550 on the table, not the 3550. 

Thats the shootout we're all looking forward to. At least I am. Been planning on buying the Epson 5050 for months, but now the HT5550 is in the mix, too. I'm itchy to get a new projector!


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## Alaric

All the interest!


BTW i've created a bit of an FAQ and some details and questions and various things on the EU version here which may be helpful
https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home

I've collated all the reviews I've found, though most seem to non english based, though I use Chrome and a quick click and it'll translate.
Lee


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## scottyroo

Alaric said:


> All the interest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW i've created a bit of an FAQ and some details and questions and various things on the EU version here which may be helpful
> 
> https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home
> 
> 
> 
> I've collated all the reviews I've found, though most seem to non english based, though I use Chrome and a quick click and it'll translate.
> 
> Lee




Wow this is awesome! Thanks!


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## [email protected]

I am eagerly awaiting this shootout to buy my next projector. I have a 103" roll down Vutec screen w/ Vu Flex Pro material driven by an Optoma HD25 projector that drops in front of a Sony XBR65X950B from back in the day so contrast has been my weak point on the projection side. I am 50/50 game/movie usage guy but play alot of twitch shooters. I am a dealer and have access to all 3 and could get them within a week of each other.


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## blastermaster

[email protected] said:


> I am eagerly awaiting this shootout to buy my next projector. I have a 103" roll down Vutec screen w/ Vu Flex Pro material driven by an Optoma HD25 projector that drops in front of a Sony XBR65X950B from back in the day so contrast has been my weak point on the projection side. I am 50/50 game/movie usage guy but play alot of twitch shooters. I am a dealer and have access to all 3 and could get them within a week of each other.


What are you waiting for? Get them all, try them all, send two back.......no?


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## scottyroo

Alaric said:


> All the interest!
> 
> 
> BTW i've created a bit of an FAQ and some details and questions and various things on the EU version here which may be helpful
> https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home
> 
> I've collated all the reviews I've found, though most seem to non english based, though I use Chrome and a quick click and it'll translate.
> Lee


I saw your calibrated settings for Dig. Cinema and Natural but noticed that the Natural was in Eco Mode. I prefer High mode (I know... lamp life and noise). Have you seen any 9400 calibration settings for a 1,600lm+ 'best bright mode' anywhere? Would love to start from there....


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## JackB

scottyroo said:


> I saw your calibrated settings for Dig. Cinema and Natural but noticed that the Natural was in Eco Mode. I prefer High mode (I know... lamp life and noise). Have you seen any 9400 calibration settings for a 1,600lm+ 'best bright mode' anywhere? Would love to start from there....


Scotty

Where are his calibrated settings? I could not find them.


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## scottyroo

JackB said:


> Scotty
> 
> 
> 
> Where are his calibrated settings? I could not find them.




They are in his google site page of his setup


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## scottyroo

Stable 26.8-26.9ms on both HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 with 4K enhancement on and off. Interestingly, input lag results on both “image processing fine” and “fast” were identical. I am testing with a 1080p Bodnar from the middle of screen. Several European review outlets have the 4K Bodnar device and are testing at 22ms of input lag in 4K HDR. This is VERY good. 

The Epson 5050UB is the fastest input lag from a 4 million pixel HDR projector (or any shifter for that matter) we have seen. The Optoma HD27HDR is the fastest 1080p (2 million pixel) HDR projector at 16ms (effectively zero. 16ms is the floor for 60fps and the optoma can technically do 8ms in 120hz mode). The BenQ TK800M is the fastest 8 million pixel ‘true’ 4K HDR projector at 42ms (that costs under $5,000). 

If they can afford the cost of entry, gamers will be happy with this guy.


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## JackB

scottyroo said:


> They are in his google site page of his setup


This is the only thing I can find that looks at all like it addresses settings, and there are no settings here:

Greyscale
The Epson has two main methods to adjust this. There is the more well know RGB Offset / Gain control in Custom. There is also a special Grey Scale section. This has RGB+/- for 8-1 levels. The projector also shows the grey scale levels or you can press and it shows the background.

I use Offset / Gain to move the RGB tracking levels to the best overall, Slightly low at black (1) because there is only gain and slightly high at white (8) because there is only cut.

If you use HCFR for this, you can type 8 into the preference box rather than use the more common 10 step process.
GAMMA
There are settings +2, +1, 0, -1, -2, Custom

-2 equates to about 2.3-2.4 as a rough setting, though custom gives the opportunity to balance out the gamma more correctly

RGBYMC
Used to correct the colour component. There is Hue, Saturation and Brightness (Luminance) for each of the Primaries and Secondaries. Roughly hue is how much of the colour there is, Saturation how much grey and Brightness how much white. The first two move the colour on the Gamut Chart (colour space) and Brightness is involved with lumenance error. All three impact on the overall error Delta e.


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## ezelkow1

JackB said:


> This is the only thing I can find that looks at all like it addresses settings, and there are no settings here:.....


They are in the 2 links at the end of the general user calibration section, one links to his settings from his avforums post, the other is his spreadsheet that he keeps updated


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## keithj101

Does the the size difference factor into the Benq 3550 and 5050 comparison. The main thing keeping me from choosing Epson as my projector is the overall size of it. It seems enormous.


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## scottyroo

keithj101 said:


> Does the the size difference factor into the Benq 3550 and 5050 comparison. The main thing keeping me from choosing Epson as my projector is the overall size of it. It seems enormous.




For some, yes. The HT3550 looks like a pick projector next to it.


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## scottyroo

Alaric said:


> All the interest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW i've created a bit of an FAQ and some details and questions and various things on the EU version here which may be helpful
> 
> https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home
> 
> 
> 
> I've collated all the reviews I've found, though most seem to non english based, though I use Chrome and a quick click and it'll translate.
> 
> Lee




I’ve implemented your HDR settings. I must say, the most noticeable difference in the image was the depth effect and realism. Well done.


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## JackB

ezelkow1 said:


> They are in the 2 links at the end of the general user calibration section, one links to his settings from his avforums post, the other is his spreadsheet that he keeps updated


Found them. Thanks.


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## scottyroo

Alaric said:


> All the interest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW i've created a bit of an FAQ and some details and questions and various things on the EU version here which may be helpful
> 
> https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home
> 
> 
> 
> I've collated all the reviews I've found, though most seem to non english based, though I use Chrome and a quick click and it'll translate.
> 
> Lee




Another quick one - your dark mode HDR settings with the P3 filter engaged is great but the SDR settings don’t translate well to HDR for obvious reasons. For the use case of watching HDR content in ambient settings or for brightness preference ... are you able to put together an optimal settings list for an HDR mode based on Natural/medium or high power consumption?


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## Dferguso

scottyroo said:


> I’ve implemented your HDR settings. I must say, the most noticeable difference in the image was the depth effect and realism. Well done.


Now that the image is getting dialed in on the Epson, at some point can you test to see if the BenQ 5550 or the 5050 has the better image from 8 feet away? I have a 150 inch 16:9 screen and my front row is ~8 feet from it. The front row being so close to the screen is why I want to upgrade to a 4K or a projector with 4K Enhancement.


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## Alaric

scottyroo said:


> I saw your calibrated settings for Dig. Cinema and Natural but noticed that the Natural was in Eco Mode. I prefer High mode (I know... lamp life and noise). Have you seen any 9400 calibration settings for a 1,600lm+ 'best bright mode' anywhere? Would love to start from there....


I'm still working on calibration, it's been a bit slow because of the learning curve of this Projector, life and watching things!

I've been a little reticent at putting settings up too. They'll be inherently off due to lots of various factors. I'm a long standing hobbiest rather than a pro and whilst I've been playing with grayscale for a long time, this has two ways of doing that even. Add RGBCMY balance to the mix and HDR....

I also don't understand why you would want high? I'm on a 120" diag screen at -4 on the iris to get 16ftl which is on the top end of light recommendations, open does about 19ftl!

I've seen almost no other settings about... A lot of the UK people get a calibrator in or do stuff by eye!


Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


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## Alaric

JackB said:


> Scotty
> 
> 
> 
> Where are his calibrated settings? I could not find them.


Read slightly further down, they're on a link because of page space.

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

scottyroo said:


> I saw your calibrated settings for Dig. Cinema and Natural but noticed that the Natural was in Eco Mode. I prefer High mode (I know... lamp life and noise). Have you seen any 9400 calibration settings for a 1,600lm+ 'best bright mode' anywhere? Would love to start from there....


I must be a fussy f’er because no way could I listen to the fan noise on high, middle in about as loud as I’d want it. I think the mode you will prefer is determined by how big the screen and distance you are projecting from, mine is a 100” screen from just over 3m so I can actually watch HDR of Cinema Digital with the HDR slider on 5-6 and ECO mode.

BTW the settings @Alaric has provided work brilliantly for me because like him my room is a bat cave with velour on the walls to kill reflective light, admittedly I needed to make a few very minor tweaks due to smaller screen and projecting distance but overall very impressive.


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## Alaric

scottyroo said:


> Another quick one - your dark mode HDR settings with the P3 filter engaged is great but the SDR settings don’t translate well to HDR for obvious reasons. For the use case of watching HDR content in ambient settings or for brightness preference ... are you able to put together an optimal settings list for an HDR mode based on Natural/medium or high power consumption?


The HDR accurate setting is high power mode!
The filter significantly drops light output, also hence why I'm on HDR slider 2!

I plan on working a Natural version for more light, brighter HDR.... And actually had a look last night, and pushing colours without the filter, is.... More of a challenge! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


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## scottyroo

Alaric said:


> The HDR accurate setting is high power mode!
> The filter significantly drops light output, also hence why I'm on HDR slider 2!
> 
> I plan on working a Natural version for more light, brighter HDR.... And actually had a look last night, and pushing colours without the filter, is.... More of a challenge!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk




Love it! I have a 160” screen I’m pushing which I why I needs brighter HDR image. 

Thank you for your time and hard work! By the way I used to live in the UK for a couple of years. My family and I just moved back in 2017. Caversham. We miss it like crazy and want to go back!


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## Luminated67

scottyroo said:


> Love it! I have a 160” screen I’m pushing which I why I needs brighter HDR image.
> 
> Thank you for your time and hard work! By the way I used to live in the UK for a couple of years. My family and I just moved back in 2017. Caversham. We miss it like crazy and want to go back!


That explains the High Lamp mode and wanting a brighter setup, 160” is almost like going to the local cinema at home. LOL


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## yadfgp

Anyone know when the 5050 will be up for sale?


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## scottyroo

Luminated67 said:


> That explains the High Lamp mode and wanting a brighter setup, 160” is almost like going to the local cinema at home. LOL




It’s better. Much much better.


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## Janhaus

You can call around - some places have it for sale.



yadfgp said:


> Anyone know when the 5050 will be up for sale?


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## Fido04

Hey Scotty, any change in the sound when using the 4k enhancement? I don't know if I am overly sensitive to it or the one JVC eshift I had was louder than others, but I had to return it because it was such of a distraction.


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## scottyroo

Fido04 said:


> Hey Scotty, any change in the sound when using the 4k enhancement? I don't know if I am overly sensitive to it or the one JVC eshift I had was louder than others, but I had to return it because it was such of a distraction.




I didn’t notice any change in noise profile or volume.


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## mdcubsfan

scottyroo said:


> I didn’t notice any change in noise profile or volume.


So I've been waiting on this model release ever since my very old optoma went out around Christmas time. I've seen here several members get their hands on these....is this possible for the general public?

I asked the AV guy I've used to help setup speakers, receivers, etc to check, and he said he called Epson today and release was in a month. I pointed him to some of the posts here and he said "that's AVS forums - they're not alway accurate" . !

Then I sent him some screen shots and he didn't have anything to say.....

Anyways

1. how / can we order 
2. Will dealers be able to sell under MSRP?

Thanks!


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## Dave in Green

Someone really should start a new 5050UB thread in the *Front Projectors Great Found Deals!* section where street prices and specific vendors can be freely discussed without worrying about the moderators showing up here and deleting a bunch of posts.


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## scottyroo

Dave in Green said:


> Someone really should start a new 5050UB thread in the *Front Projectors Great Found Deals!* section where street prices and specific vendors can be freely discussed without worrying about the moderators showing up here and deleting a bunch of posts.


Sounds like you just volunteered yourself  haha


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## Alaric

scottyroo said:


> Love it! I have a 160” screen I’m pushing which I why I needs brighter HDR image.
> 
> Thank you for your time and hard work! By the way I used to live in the UK for a couple of years. My family and I just moved back in 2017. Caversham. We miss it like crazy and want to go back!


I've just run through a HDR : Bright setting. I've not tested or tweaked it, so it is an as is!
Time to relax and watch a movie with it 

I find the AV community a helpful place and the more we share, the more we all improve our set ups.
It's new tech and new features and there is always something to learn....

Besides having notes is helpful when revisiting something, I'm a fast learner, but I also forget pretty quick too 

I like reading, have friends there and visit a couple of times a year! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


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## scottyroo

Alaric said:


> I've just run through a HDR : Bright setting. I've not tested or tweaked it, so it is an as is!
> Time to relax and watch a movie with it
> 
> I find the AV community a helpful place and the more we share, the more we all improve our set ups.
> It's new tech and new features and there is always something to learn....
> 
> Besides having notes is helpful when revisiting something, I'm a fast learner, but I also forget pretty quick too
> 
> I like reading, have friends there and visit a couple of times a year!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


I was always told Reading is a terrible place to live... I really enjoyed it. Especially our little home right on the Thames! 

Thanks for sharing!!!


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## scottyroo

Alaric said:


> I've just run through a HDR : Bright setting. I've not tested or tweaked it, so it is an as is!
> Time to relax and watch a movie with it
> 
> I find the AV community a helpful place and the more we share, the more we all improve our set ups.
> It's new tech and new features and there is always something to learn....
> 
> Besides having notes is helpful when revisiting something, I'm a fast learner, but I also forget pretty quick too
> 
> I like reading, have friends there and visit a couple of times a year!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Quick question.... I'll try the settings when I get home but it looks like the Color Temp settings refers to the option that is available when SDR content is on screen. Did you calibrate this "HDR-Bright" settings with SDR content?


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## Alaric

scottyroo said:


> Quick question.... I'll try the settings when I get home but it looks like the Color Temp settings refers to the option that is available when SDR content is on screen. Did you calibrate this "HDR-Bright" settings with SDR content?


I've based it on Natural, which doesn't have the filter so as to create more light output, but used DCI P3 for hcfr and had the PJ forced to use rec2020 colour space.... The colours won't be as accurate, but you should get a lot more light.
The first ten minutes of Transformers :Last Knight uhd has a fair bit of pop to it and so far nothing nasty has been obvious... I'm shuffling the HDR slider by eye but am somewhere between 7-9 and could probably drop to medium power here and still have strong light output using Natural for HDR stuff! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


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## Dave in Green

scottyroo said:


> Sounds like you just volunteered yourself  haha


I would if I was in the market for a new projector and considering the 5050UB. Since I'm not I thought I'd offer a friendly word of advice to those who are and don't want to see their posts deleted by a mod.


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## keithj101

@scottyroo when do you expect to have your comparison up? I appreciate what you're doing here! I just bought the 3550 and really like the small size, picture quality. But I may switch for the Epson depending on reviews/comparisons. Ease of setup, gaming, fan noise are some reasons.


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## scottyroo

My HDMI splitter is giving me fits. It splits the 4K sinks to the two projectors but not in HDR or the 2020 Color Space. I need to fix the issue so I can get some proper side by side comparisons up.

The Epson is a great projector but it’s not perfect. I really like it though. It’s all about the value prop at the respective price points and if you can live with the niggles that each projector has.


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## JackB

scottyroo said:


> My HDMI splitter is giving me fits. It splits the 4K sinks to the two projectors but not in HDR or the 2020 Color Space. I need to fix the issue so I can get some proper side by side comparisons up.
> 
> The Epson is a great projector but it’s not perfect. I really like it though. It’s all about the value prop at the respective price points and if you can live with the niggles that each projector has.


I have tried three or four hdmi 4k splitters and none of them have totally worked. They have all had one glitch or another.


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## Alex Hindman

scottyroo said:


> My HDMI splitter is giving me fits. It splits the 4K sinks to the two projectors but not in HDR or the 2020 Color Space. I need to fix the issue so I can get some proper side by side comparisons up.
> 
> The Epson is a great projector but it’s not perfect. I really like it though. It’s all about the value prop at the respective price points and if you can live with the niggles that each projector has.


Scott, what are the main drawbacks of the 5050? Super interested in your take as I'm trying to decide on this or spend more for the new JVCs. If I go with epson, I can spend more on sound, but I don't want to be disappointed.


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## blake18

Alex Hindman said:


> scottyroo said:
> 
> 
> 
> My HDMI splitter is giving me fits. It splits the 4K sinks to the two projectors but not in HDR or the 2020 Color Space. I need to fix the issue so I can get some proper side by side comparisons up.
> 
> The Epson is a great projector but it’s not perfect. I really like it though. It’s all about the value prop at the respective price points and if you can live with the niggles that each projector has.
> 
> 
> 
> Scott, what are the main drawbacks of the 5050? Super interested in your take as I'm trying to decide on this or spend more for the new JVCs. If I go with epson, I can spend more on sound, but I don't want to be disappointed.
Click to expand...

I can't imagine you'd be disappointed, this is their best projector yet. The 5040UB had stellar image quality on all fronts, and this one will be even better.


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## scottyroo

Alex Hindman said:


> Scott, what are the main drawbacks of the 5050? Super interested in your take as I'm trying to decide on this or spend more for the new JVCs. If I go with epson, I can spend more on sound, but I don't want to be disappointed.




I’ve really enjoyed playing with the 5050 this week. I’m under no embargo so I can talk about it. Expect more reviews to hit on Tuesday though. 

Testing the BenQ HT5550 right now as well and there is no about it, the BenQ looks sharper. I have a 160” screen so moving from a 8.3M discrete pixel image the last year and a half to a 1080x2... some people say you can really tell but I can on my 160” screen sitting 16’ away mostly in text. Moving images are another story but there are moments where a sharp line will cut across the screen and it’s not as sharp as I’m used to. I wish it was sharper...That’s not to say it’s not a sharp image. The double e shift really looks better than just 1080p and I leave the 4K enhancement on for all content. 

The size of the 5050 is nothing new, but it is big and it is white. Doesn’t look great on my black ceiling. Sucks that I have to pay a grand more to get a black paint job for the 6050. 

I really don’t understand why your preferred HDR picture mode can’t be invoked when HDR content is displayed. I don’t like how big the remote is and how far you have to depress the remote buttons to go to memory, load memory, down, down, click. Thank goodness for sequences on my harmony remote. I have the button sequences for my optimized HDR, SDR, and Bright room viewing. 

Noise at high lamp is pretty high. It’s really quiet on medium and eco though. 

Iris is pretty good. Doesn’t pump on normal scenes and only engages in very low APL scenes. Not very audile but in dead quiet you can hear it diligently working away. 

Colors out of the box are pretty good but it is crazy the amount of customization you can do on the 5050. It’s a blessing and a curse. I am fiddling much more with it than I ever have with a projector and my wife hates it when I pull up menus (sequences ftw!). But the level of calibrating that be done with grayscale, gamma, rgbmcy, color temperature, etc etc etc... it’s a tinkerers playground. May seem daunting to some though. 

Motion handling is so so. I noticed some stuttering on the tree canopies in some forest pans on Planet Earth 2 that the single chips DLPs like the HT5550 handle really well. That’s being nit picky though. Other than those scenes motion handling has been fine. 

I used @Alaric’s settings with a few tweaks of my own and the PQ is very good. The grayscale calibration really adds a lot of depth and richness to the image. 

Input lag is very good at 26ms that I measured. Using HDR Bright settings that Alaric provided, I have played about 4 hours of Halo on my Xbox one x. 4K HDR 60fps gaming is really nice on the 5050!

Frame interpolation ONLY when 4K enhancement is off. Even on 1089p content you have to turn off the enhancement which is a multi step process and is annoying. Personally I think the the image quality looks better the the 4kE on in sports. Just sucks that can’t do frame interpolation in 4K like you can on the HT5550. 

Everyone talks about the inky blacks on the Epsons. They are good but I ha e heard JVCs are better. I haven’t seen the JVCs that you might be looking at but I think the only thing those might do a touch better at are blacks. DLP


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## coderguy

Easier than painting a projector, just cover it with black velvet tape for $35 or just buy a couple yards of Triple Black Velvet and attach it with removable velcro or something...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Projection...661144&hash=item3afe5c764e:g:VrAAAOSwVLRaX6eT



scottyroo said:


> Everyone talks about the inky blacks on the Epsons. They are good but I ha e heard JVCs are better. I haven’t seen the JVCs that you might be looking at but I think the only thing those might do a touch better at are blacks. DLP


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## coderguy

scottyroo said:


> Colors out of the box are pretty good but it is crazy the amount of customization you can do on the 5050. It’s a blessing and a curse. I am fiddling much more with it than I ever have with a projector and my wife hates it when I pull up menus (sequences ftw!). But the level of calibrating that be done with grayscale, gamma, rgbmcy, color temperature, etc etc etc... it’s a tinkerers playground. May seem daunting to some though.


I would start with calibrating the grayscale and check the gamma after you calibrate the grayscale, only use single point gamma changes if you have to as it can add posterization.
Most projectors don't require much calibrating these days, many are pretty close to spot on, but it depends on your screen's color accuracy to some degree.

I just use an older version of Calman 5.x and set the reading to continous, then I watch the bars move as I change the dials. Anyone can do a basic calibration on a projector with the right equipment, it's super super simple, the only really hard part about calibration these days is HDR or if trying to get the gamma perfect. My issue is I think my C6 drifted a bit, seems to be reading green too low maybe.


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## Alaric

scottyroo said:


> I’ve really enjoyed playing with the 5050 this week. I’m under no embargo so I can talk about it. Expect more reviews to hit on Tuesday though.
> 
> Testing the BenQ HT5550 right now as well and there is no about it, the BenQ looks sharper. I have a 160” screen so moving from a 8.3M discrete pixel image the last year and a half to a 1080x2... some people say you can really tell but I can on my 160” screen sitting 16’ away mostly in text. Moving images are another story but there are moments where a sharp line will cut across the screen and it’s not as sharp as I’m used to. I wish it was sharper...That’s not to say it’s not a sharp image. The double e shift really looks better than just 1080p and I leave the 4K enhancement on for all content.
> 
> The size of the 5050 is nothing new, but it is big and it is white. Doesn’t look great on my black ceiling. Sucks that I have to pay a grand more to get a black paint job for the 6050.
> 
> I really don’t understand why your preferred HDR picture mode can’t be invoked when HDR content is displayed. I don’t like how big the remote is and how far you have to depress the remote buttons to go to memory, load memory, down, down, click. Thank goodness for sequences on my harmony remote. I have the button sequences for my optimized HDR, SDR, and Bright room viewing.
> 
> Noise at high lamp is pretty high. It’s really quiet on medium and eco though.
> 
> Iris is pretty good. Doesn’t pump on normal scenes and only engages in very low APL scenes. Not very audile but in dead quiet you can hear it diligently working away.
> 
> Colors out of the box are pretty good but it is crazy the amount of customization you can do on the 5050. It’s a blessing and a curse. I am fiddling much more with it than I ever have with a projector and my wife hates it when I pull up menus (sequences ftw!). But the level of calibrating that be done with grayscale, gamma, rgbmcy, color temperature, etc etc etc... it’s a tinkerers playground. May seem daunting to some though.
> 
> Motion handling is so so. I noticed some stuttering on the tree canopies in some forest pans on Planet Earth 2 that the single chips DLPs like the HT5550 handle really well. That’s being nit picky though. Other than those scenes motion handling has been fine.
> 
> I used @Alaric’s settings with a few tweaks of my own and the PQ is very good. The grayscale calibration really adds a lot of depth and richness to the image.
> 
> Input lag is very good at 26ms that I measured. Using HDR Bright settings that Alaric provided, I have played about 4 hours of Halo on my Xbox one x. 4K HDR 60fps gaming is really nice on the 5050!
> 
> Frame interpolation ONLY when 4K enhancement is off. Even on 1089p content you have to turn off the enhancement which is a multi step process and is annoying. Personally I think the the image quality looks better the the 4kE on in sports. Just sucks that can’t do frame interpolation in 4K like you can on the HT5550.
> 
> Everyone talks about the inky blacks on the Epsons. They are good but I ha e heard JVCs are better. I haven’t seen the JVCs that you might be looking at but I think the only thing those might do a touch better at are blacks. DLP


----------



## Janhaus

Q: Why use EDID:Normal in the settings? Shouldn't it always be Enhanced?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk


----------



## scottyroo

Janhaus said:


> Q: Why use EDID:Normal in the settings? Shouldn't it always be Enhanced?
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk




I was wondering the same thing and actually have a question related to this. 

My HDMI splitter works great in HDR with BenQ projectors I am testing, the HT5550 and TK800M. However when I have the Epson 5050 as one of the receiving displays in the split, the output signal is not HDR... it is 8 bit SDR. Anyone with experience here that can help?


----------



## Hawkmarket

scottyroo said:


> I was wondering the same thing and actually have a question related to this.
> 
> My HDMI splitter works great in HDR with BenQ projectors I am testing, the HT5550 and TK800M. However when I have the Epson 5050 as one of the receiving displays in the split, the output signal is not HDR... it is 8 bit SDR. Anyone with experience here that can help?


How would you compare the calibrated lumens of the BenQ 5550 and the Epson 5050? Or if not calibrated, at least in a color accurate mode for each of them. Do you have a lumens measurement for that? I have a 150" 16:9 screen that I use sometimes with ambient lighting to watch sports and sometimes with all the lights off in a room with dark walls and ceiling for movies. It's a bit of a multipurpose room in that regard. I need all the extra brightness I can get from the projector.


----------



## scottyroo

Hawkmarket said:


> How would you compare the calibrated lumens of the BenQ 5550 and the Epson 5050? Or if not calibrated, at least in a color accurate mode for each of them. Do you have a lumens measurement for that? I have a 150" 16:9 screen that I use sometimes with ambient lighting to watch sports and sometimes with all the lights off in a room with dark walls and ceiling for movies. It's a bit of a multipurpose room in that regard. I need all the extra brightness I can get from the projector.




Calibrated lumens are very similar for both at around 1,000 lumens. That is with both P3 filters on with HDR content. Both have really spectacular calibrated images. Out of the box, my untrained eye prefers the BenQ HDR image compared to default 5050 settings. However, with some fiddling the Epson 5050 can put a great calibrated HDR image on the screen as well. The auto tone mapping on the HT5550 does a really good job with keeping the HDR image bright. 5050 with the dynamic range slider set to 1 or 2 has a nice bright HDR image but the tone mapping is not automatic. I personally prefer the HDR image on the BenQ by a hair. I never have to touch the settings. Click play and enjoy. 

However the extra lumens headroom the 5050 has is something the HT5550 does not offer. For a BRIGHT room image with slightly compromised colors, it is going to offer a more robust package for sports and gaming. 

Both are great projectors and both have their areas of strength and weaknesses.


----------



## Hawkmarket

scottyroo said:


> Calibrated lumens are very similar for both at around 1,000 lumens. That is with both P3 filters on with HDR content. Both have really spectacular calibrated images. Out of the box, my untrained eye prefers the BenQ HDR image compared to default 5050 settings. However, with some fiddling the Epson 5050 can put a great calibrated HDR image on the screen as well. The auto tone mapping on the HT5550 does a really good job with keeping the HDR image bright. 5050 with the dynamic range slider set to 1 or 2 has a nice bright HDR image but the tone mapping is not automatic. I personally prefer the HDR image on the BenQ by a hair. I never have to touch the settings. Click play and enjoy.
> 
> However the extra lumens headroom the 5050 has is something the HT5550 does not offer. For a BRIGHT room image with slightly compromised colors, it is going to offer a more robust package for sports and gaming.
> 
> Both are great projectors and both have their areas of strength and weaknesses.



Good to know. I'd say about 30% to 40% of my viewing is sports. That may be my push to the 5050.


----------



## scottyroo

BenQ also has another upcoming PJ that will be postitioned for sports. It is going to be a brighter variant of the HT3550.


----------



## Hawkmarket

scottyroo said:


> BenQ also has another upcoming PJ that will be postitioned for sports. It is going to be a brighter variant of the HT3550.



I seem to need that jack of all trades master of none projector. The room can get very dark with dark carpet, walls and ceiling for movies. However, it's also a man cave with plenty of sports memorabilia for lights on and watching games. Given the size of the screen whichever projector scratches that itch is a good fit. I also really enjoy 3d so that's another priority.


----------



## scottyroo

Hawkmarket said:


> I seem to need that jack of all trades master of none projector. The room can get very dark with dark carpet, walls and ceiling for movies. However, it's also a man cave with plenty of sports memorabilia for lights on and watching games. Given the size of the screen whichever projector scratches that itch is a good fit. I also really enjoy 3d so that's another priority.




If you don’t mind the chassis size or the price you’ll be happy with the 5050. If you want to see if the “bright HT3550” will be worth $1,500 to wait for a few months that would be my recommended plan B.


----------



## Keltron

scottyroo said:


> Hawkmarket said:
> 
> 
> 
> I seem to need that jack of all trades master of none projector. The room can get very dark with dark carpet, walls and ceiling for movies. However, it's also a man cave with plenty of sports memorabilia for lights on and watching games. Given the size of the screen whichever projector scratches that itch is a good fit. I also really enjoy 3d so that's another priority.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don’t mind the chassis size or the price you’ll be happy with the 5050. If you want to see if the “bright HT3550” will be worth $1,500 to wait for a few months that would be my recommended plan B.
Click to expand...

The “bright HT3550” you’re referring to isn’t the TK800M or HT5550, right? Is it going to be roughly the same price as the HT3550? This is the first time I’m hearing about it!


----------



## scottyroo

Keltron said:


> The “bright HT3550” you’re referring to isn’t the TK800M or HT5550, right? Is it going to be roughly the same price as the HT3550? This is the first time I’m hearing about it!


Correct!


----------



## Keltron

scottyroo said:


> Keltron said:
> 
> 
> 
> The “bright HT3550” you’re referring to isn’t the TK800M or HT5550, right? Is it going to be roughly the same price as the HT3550? This is the first time I’m hearing about it!
> 
> 
> 
> Correct!
Click to expand...

Interesting... thanks! Any idea when you might be getting a review unit? 😛


----------



## scottyroo

Not quite sure... hopefully a couple of months from now!


----------



## Maximum7

So if I seldom watch sports, and my room can be low to dark, I should choose the 5550, or 3550? 
And those will have better motion handling and better contrast? 
What would be the cons?
Loud fan?


----------



## JAR5197

Maximum7 said:


> So if I seldom watch sports, and my room can be low to dark, I should choose the 5550, or 3550?
> And those will have better motion handling and better contrast?
> What would be the cons?
> Loud fan?


No, not better contrast.


----------



## Dferguso

scottyroo said:


> I was wondering the same thing and actually have a question related to this.
> 
> My HDMI splitter works great in HDR with BenQ projectors I am testing, the HT5550 and TK800M. However when I have the Epson 5050 as one of the receiving displays in the split, the output signal is not HDR... it is 8 bit SDR. Anyone with experience here that can help?


Is the rated bandwidth for the TK800M and HT5550 18Gbps? If so are they both operating at 18Gbps when on the splitter? If the Epson throughput is dropping it seems like it is going somewhere just not to the Epson. Is there a drop when the TK800M and the Epson 5050 are the only two on the splitter?


----------



## scottyroo

Dferguso said:


> Is the rated bandwidth for the TK800M and HT5550 18Gbps? If so are they both operating at 18Gbps when on the splitter? If the Epson throughput is dropping it seems like it is going somewhere just not to the Epson. Is there a drop when the TK800M and the Epson 5050 are the only two on the splitter?




I got it sorted. I am using the AVR’s built in dual output. Working like a champ thanks to robs recommendation.


----------



## scottyroo

I used a Canon 6D in these shots. All were shot with 1/5 shutter speed, 4000 ISO, f5.6. 

Benq HT5550 on left. Epson 5050 on right. 

Epson has better black floor (see letter boxes in HDR) but hopefully you can pick up in the shots that the BenQ has better shadow detail. That is what I am seeing in person at least. 

HDR default. Both are in default Modes out of box settings in this picture. Both P3 filters on. Both irises are on. Epson set to Digital Cinema. 










SDR Default. BenQ Cinema (Rec709) Mode and Epson Natural Mode. My 1080p SDR version of the film had the IMAX 16:10 ratios baked in. Filters off. Iris on. 










Preferred HDR. BenQ set to HDR Brightness +1. That’s it. Epson is using calibrated settings from @Alaric based on Dogital Cinema. Both filters and irises still on. 










Preferred SDR. BenQ Cinema (Rec709) mode. Brilliant Color. @Alaric ‘s calibrated SDR mode based on Natural. Filters off. Irises on.


----------



## ezelkow1

Any clue which one you are preferring at the moment? (sort of sounds like the ht5550) Im coming from a 5020ub so had my sights set on the 5050 this week but the only thing that has me leary is the half res in comparison to something like the 5550 offering full res, but then Im assuming at the cost of contrast. Grrr choices


----------



## scottyroo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



ezelkow1 said:


> Any clue which one you are preferring at the moment? (sort of sounds like the ht5550) Im coming from a 5020ub so had my sights set on the 5050 this week but the only thing that has me leary is the half res in comparison to something like the 5550 offering full res, but then Im assuming at the cost of contrast. Grrr choices




I feel your pain brother! I wish these two projectors could just have a baby and take the best of both, mash em up, and call it good. I’m still running them through their paces. I like them both a lot. Gaming and sports I give the nod to the Epson due to brightness and input lag . Movies trade blows but right now I’d give edge to BenQ because just how dead simple it is to get the picture I like with auto HDR. 

I just posted this on the HT5550 thread. Since you mentioned the resolution difference I’ll post here. 
——-
Does anyone remember what it was like when you got an iPhone 4 back in 2010? At first the “retina” resolution didn’t blow me away. Frankly I was happy with my resolution on my 3GS. Then I used the iPhone 4 for a month and picked up my wife’s 3GS and realized how much of a difference the increased resolution made. Maybe not to that scale but that’s kind of what I’m experiencing with the HT5550 and Epson 5050. I’ve heard for so long that it 1080x2 is no different from 1080x4 and you can’t tell from normal viewing. 

Lots to love about the Epson. But I can definitely tell on my 160” screen.

Ht5550








5050UB 








FOV


----------



## ezelkow1

Is there really a discernible difference at viewing distance that you would attribute to the resolution? Or do you think its what most have said for a while, that up close sure you can see the structure, but at distance there's no real difference


----------



## scottyroo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



ezelkow1 said:


> Is there really a discernible difference at viewing distance that you would attribute to the resolution? Or do you think its what most have said for a while, that up close sure you can see the structure, but at distance there's no real difference




Here’s my take on it. Most people who moved to 5040 or 4000 were coming from 1080p. Even the reviewers who showcase the e-shift show 1080p content on the 5040/5050 and then show the same screenshot with the e-shift on. Bottom line is that it works as far as 1080x2 goes and people are impressed since they are using 1080p as a baseline. And that’s not a bad thing. Those are mostly the people who say “you can’t notice”. 

So having had a 1080x4 shifter the last year on my 160” screen I went into the 5050 thinking I wouldn’t notice. YMMV depending on screen size and seating distance but with 160” screen and 16’ seating distance I can notice. It feels like one my 1080x4 unit’s just slightly out of focus. So from my baseline of 1080x4 the last year, yes I can notice. 

But you are coming from a 5020 so you will appreciate the 1080x2 regardless. Lol I’ve just gotten used to 8.3M sharp pixels on a big A** screen the last couple years.

That’s not to say the 5050 doesn’t have a lot of other things going for it. But the 1080x2 is probably one of the top things I would want upgraded in the next iteration.


----------



## blastermaster

scottyroo said:


> Here’s my take on it. Most people who moved to 5040 or 4000 were coming from 1080p. Even the reviewers who showcase the e-shift show 1080p content on the 5040/5050 and then show the same screenshot with the e-shift on. Bottom line is that it works as far as 1080x2 goes and people are impressed since they are using 1080p as a baseline. And that’s not a bad thing. Those are mostly the people who say “you can’t notice”.
> 
> So having had a 1080x4 shifter the last year on my 160” screen I went into the 5050 thinking I wouldn’t notice. YMMV depending on screen size and seating distance but with 160” screen and 16’ seating distance I can notice. It feels like one my 1080x4 unit’s just slightly out of focus. So from my baseline of 1080x4 the last year, yes I can notice.
> 
> But you are coming from a 5020 so you will appreciate the 1080x2 regardless. Lol I’ve just gotten used to 8.3M sharp pixels on a big A** screen the last couple years.
> 
> That’s not to say the 5050 doesn’t have a lot of other things going for it. But the 1080x2 is probably one of the top things I would want upgraded in the next iteration.


That's good information. I sit around 10 feet from a 138" scope screen. I'd definitely notice the difference, and a razor sharp image is more important to me than slightly better blacks.


----------



## noob00224

scottyroo said:


> It is not a mode on the projector. I found that the projector EDID did not properly broadcast that it can do 1080p at 120hz. I think the max the projector broadcasts is 768p at 120hz. HOWEVER if you go into your PC’s gpu control panel you should be able to create a custom 1920x1080 resolution with 120hz refresh rate. Select that resolution after you create it and the projector will kick in. It worked perfectly with my GTX 1070


Can you do the same for these two as well?


----------



## WynsWrld98

I wish the BenQ had powered zoom, focus and lens shift with memory. In my price range with my CIH setup it makes it difficult to pick anything but the 5050 but would love to try DLP when/if they add this capability.


----------



## blake18

WynsWrld98 said:


> I wish the BenQ had powered zoom, focus and lens shift with memory. In my price range with my CIH setup it makes it difficult to pick anything but the 5050 but would love to try DLP when/if they add this capability.


You'll be happier with the 5050UB, it blows away DLP contrast ratio, and has much better brightness uniformity.


----------



## blake18

blastermaster said:


> scottyroo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here’s my take on it. Most people who moved to 5040 or 4000 were coming from 1080p. Even the reviewers who showcase the e-shift show 1080p content on the 5040/5050 and then show the same screenshot with the e-shift on. Bottom line is that it works as far as 1080x2 goes and people are impressed since they are using 1080p as a baseline. And that’s not a bad thing. Those are mostly the people who say “you can’t notice”.
> 
> So having had a 1080x4 shifter the last year on my 160” screen I went into the 5050 thinking I wouldn’t notice. YMMV depending on screen size and seating distance but with 160” screen and 16’ seating distance I can notice. It feels like one my 1080x4 unit’s just slightly out of focus. So from my baseline of 1080x4 the last year, yes I can notice.
> 
> But you are coming from a 5020 so you will appreciate the 1080x2 regardless. Lol I’ve just gotten used to 8.3M sharp pixels on a big A** screen the last couple years.
> 
> That’s not to say the 5050 doesn’t have a lot of other things going for it. But the 1080x2 is probably one of the top things I would want upgraded in the next iteration.
> 
> 
> 
> That's good information. I sit around 10 feet from a 138" scope screen. I'd definitely notice the difference, and a razor sharp image is more important to me than slightly better blacks.
Click to expand...

The difference in black levels is definitely not slight, the Epson 5050ub will be significantly better than any DLP. Also, it's quite well proven that better contrast makes a bigger difference in image quality than more pixels.


----------



## rjguk

The Epson pic above looks like it has fringes from the panel alignment being out. Mine was like that, but it was easy enough to do the alignment and get a much sharper result.


If that's already adjusted then fine, but my impression from the image shown is that shifting green down and left a pixel might help.


----------



## scottyroo

rjguk said:


> The Epson pic above looks like it has fringes from the panel alignment being out. Mine was like that, but it was easy enough to do the alignment and get a much sharper result.
> 
> 
> If that's already adjusted then fine, but my impression from the image shown is that shifting green down and left a pixel might help.




I will try that! I noticed the convergence on the Epson as well but couldn’t get it right. Thanks!


----------



## ckronengold

With a twinge of hesitation over the 1080x2 vs 1080x4 pixel shifting and auto-HDR issues, I ordered the 5050 this weekend. My local shop called his rep and they "had them in stock" and should be arriving later this week. 

My plan is to just fire up @Alaric 's settings before playing anything. Figure thats a good starting point. 

I'm still not sorted on my 4k sources. Chromecast Ultra won't pass a TrueHD audio signal, and a Roku Ultra won't pass one either. So for the short term, I'll be choosing between HDR and Atmos, which F*^#[email protected] sucks. I don't have any movies with a lossy Atmos or DTS:X track. Next choice will be nVidia Shield vs standalone UHD player. Not ready to build a new HTPC until they sort out their 4k/DRM/HDR issues. 

Thats going to slow down my upgrade to a 128" 2.35:1 screen. Was hoping to get away with a $50 4k / hi res audio solution rather than $500. 

Anyone else make a decision to pull the trigger yet?


----------



## scottyroo

ckronengold said:


> With a twinge of hesitation over the 1080x2 vs 1080x4 pixel shifting and auto-HDR issues, I ordered the 5050 this weekend. My local shop called his rep and they "had them in stock" and should be arriving later this week.
> 
> My plan is to just fire up @Alaric 's settings before playing anything. Figure thats a good starting point.
> 
> I'm still not sorted on my 4k sources. Chromecast Ultra won't pass a TrueHD audio signal, and a Roku Ultra won't pass one either. So for the short term, I'll be choosing between HDR and Atmos, which F*^#[email protected] sucks. I don't have any movies with a lossy Atmos or DTS:X track. Next choice will be nVidia Shield vs standalone UHD player. Not ready to build a new HTPC until they sort out their 4k/DRM/HDR issues.
> 
> Thats going to slow down my upgrade to a 128" 2.35:1 screen. Was hoping to get away with a $50 4k / hi res audio solution rather than $500.
> 
> Anyone else make a decision to pull the trigger yet?


I will make your decision very simple for you. Get a Shield TV. Hands down the best all around streamer out there. Atmos, TrueHD, DTS:X, 4K, 4:4:4:.... it does it all. Just get it for $179. Your 4K source input search is over.


----------



## Alaric

ckronengold said:


> With a twinge of hesitation over the 1080x2 vs 1080x4 pixel shifting and auto-HDR issues, I ordered the 5050 this weekend. My local shop called his rep and they "had them in stock" and should be arriving later this week.
> 
> 
> 
> My plan is to just fire up @Alaric 's settings before playing anything. Figure thats a good starting point.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still not sorted on my 4k sources. Chromecast Ultra won't pass a TrueHD audio signal, and a Roku Ultra won't pass one either. So for the short term, I'll be choosing between HDR and Atmos, which F*^#[email protected] sucks. I don't have any movies with a lossy Atmos or DTS:X track. Next choice will be nVidia Shield vs standalone UHD player. Not ready to build a new HTPC until they sort out their 4k/DRM/HDR issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats going to slow down my upgrade to a 128" 2.35:1 screen. Was hoping to get away with a $50 4k / hi res audio solution rather than $500.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else make a decision to pull the trigger yet?


I've got a Sheild in my living room. Certainly not Atmos on Netflix, may do via Kodi though... I've got a panasonic 420 in my cinema, which is a mini 820 and about the best cheap option if there's a US equivalent. Small format but same chipset apart from Dolby Vision which is redundant for projectors.
UHD, Netflix and Prime atmos 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## scottyroo

Alaric said:


> I've got a Sheild in my living room. Certainly not Atmos on Netflix


I believe that is a Netflix issue though. I also rarely watch netflix. Big thing for me is that the Shield TV is the only Plex client that can to full on bitstream Atmos/TrueHD. I am mostly using my Shield TV with Plex and Vudu for my 'Movies Anywhere' library. Sony UBP-X700 for discs and more critical viewing.


----------



## Luminated67

scottyroo said:


> I feel your pain brother! I wish these two projectors could just have a baby and take the best of both, mash em up, and call it good. I’m still running them through their paces. I like them both a lot. Gaming and sports I give the nod to the Epson due to brightness and input lag . Movies trade blows but right now I’d give edge to BenQ because just how dead simple it is to get the picture I like with auto HDR.
> 
> I just posted this on the HT5550 thread. Since you mentioned the resolution difference I’ll post here.
> ——-
> Does anyone remember what it was like when you got an iPhone 4 back in 2010? At first the “retina” resolution didn’t blow me away. Frankly I was happy with my resolution on my 3GS. Then I used the iPhone 4 for a month and picked up my wife’s 3GS and realized how much of a difference the increased resolution made. Maybe not to that scale but that’s kind of what I’m experiencing with the HT5550 and Epson 5050. I’ve heard for so long that it 1080x2 is no different from 1080x4 and you can’t tell from normal viewing.
> 
> Lots to love about the Epson. But I can definitely tell on my 160” screen.
> 
> Ht5550
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5050UB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FOV


I think this is a very valid point when viewing from a screen this big.


----------



## scottyroo

Pro review embargos are lifted. Expect the floodgates to open as more post today. I know Art at projectorreviews.com will be posting soon.

https://www.avsforum.com/epson-home-cinema-5050ub-4k-pro-uhd-hdr-projector-review/


----------



## Luminated67

scottyroo said:


> I used a Canon 6D in these shots. All were shot with 1/5 shutter speed, 4000 ISO, f5.6.
> 
> Benq HT5550 on left. Epson 5050 on right.
> 
> Epson has better black floor (see letter boxes in HDR) but hopefully you can pick up in the shots that the BenQ has better shadow detail. That is what I am seeing in person at least.
> 
> HDR default. Both are in default Modes out of box settings in this picture. Both P3 filters on. Both irises are on. Epson set to Digital Cinema.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SDR Default. BenQ Cinema (Rec709) Mode and Epson Natural Mode. My 1080p SDR version of the film had the IMAX 16:10 ratios baked in. Filters off. Iris on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Preferred HDR. BenQ set to HDR Brightness +1. That’s it. Epson is using calibrated settings from @Alaric based on Dogital Cinema. Both filters and irises still on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Preferred SDR. BenQ Cinema (Rec709) mode. Brilliant Color. @Alaric ‘s calibrated SDR mode based on Natural. Filters off. Irises on.


Quite a noticeable difference in both colours and black levels, the BenQ might be sharper but I think I would forgo this for the other elements of the image that are superior on the Epson. One thing you will find on the Epson is adjusting the HDR slider gives the shadow detail you aren't noticing.


----------



## ezelkow1

scottyroo said:


> I will make your decision very simple for you. Get a Shield TV. Hands down the best all around streamer out there. Atmos, TrueHD, DTS:X, 4K, 4:4:4:.... it does it all. Just get it for $179. Your 4K source input search is over.


This

I had been running my own linux based HTPC for a long while but once I got in my head I wanted to move to 4k/hdr I had to come up with something else since linux hdr support is non-existent and 4k can be flaky. Replaced with a shield ~4mo ago and never looked back. I mostly use it for kodi playback which does passthru of everything properly, shield interface itself is nice and fast, does everything I need in a slim box (though I missed having a standalone linux server in the house but the few things I used it for got replaced with a pi)


----------



## blastermaster

blake18 said:


> The difference in black levels is definitely not slight, the Epson 5050ub will be significantly better than any DLP. Also, it's quite well proven that better contrast makes a bigger difference in image quality than more pixels.


Again, that's other people's opinion, and I wonder what size screen they are viewing it on? I'm sitting at the THX recommended distance, which is quite close. There are other factors that are important to me as well. Sure the Epson may have better blacks, but to the detriment of losing shadow detail. Also important to me is smoothness of motion which seems to be better on the BenQ. I'll admit it's a tough decision and I would really like to see them in person to make a final judgement, but these forums are a great resource and are super helpful for those who can't actually get their hands on both.


----------



## scottyroo

blastermaster said:


> Again, that's other people's opinion, and I wonder what size screen they are viewing it on? I'm sitting at the THX recommended distance, which is quite close. There are other factors that are important to me as well. Sure the Epson may have better blacks, but to the detriment of losing shadow detail. Also important to me is smoothness of motion which seems to be better on the BenQ. I'll admit it's a tough decision and I would really like to see them in person to make a final judgement, but these forums are a great resource and are super helpful for those who can't actually get their hands on both.




Yeah I agree with this here. Objective data points like resolution and contrast will have people considering those two projectors I compared for different reasons. What IS SUBJECTIVE is what a person prefers to have in their projector... better resolution, better auto tone mapping, great color, ok contrast? Or better contrast, better brightness, great color, ok resolution? 

I know it’s not as simple as that but the point I make is that we live in a great time where the projector market is still competitive when a lot of people thought they were going away. Let the competition thrive!


----------



## ckronengold

Alaric said:


> I've got a Sheild in my living room. Certainly not Atmos on Netflix, may do via Kodi though... I've got a panasonic 420 in my cinema, which is a mini 820 and about the best cheap option if there's a US equivalent. Small format but same chipset apart from Dolby Vision which is redundant for projectors.
> UHD, Netflix and Prime atmos


I don't want to hijack this thread and turn it into my own digital therapy session, but thats pretty much what it comes down to. Shield vs Panny player. It would be nice to be able to spin a disc, but I mostly just rip them to my network, so making that work would be ideal. 

And there's no Panny 420 in the US. So I was leaning towards the 820. In for a dime, in for a dollar, I guess.


----------



## blake18

blastermaster said:


> blake18 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The difference in black levels is definitely not slight, the Epson 5050ub will be significantly better than any DLP. Also, it's quite well proven that better contrast makes a bigger difference in image quality than more pixels.
> 
> 
> 
> Again, that's other people's opinion, and I wonder what size screen they are viewing it on? I'm sitting at the THX recommended distance, which is quite close. There are other factors that are important to me as well. Sure the Epson may have better blacks, but to the detriment of losing shadow detail. Also important to me is smoothness of motion which seems to be better on the BenQ. I'll admit it's a tough decision and I would really like to see them in person to make a final judgement, but these forums are a great resource and are super helpful for those who can't actually get their hands on both.
Click to expand...

Better blacks does not mean lower shadow detail, not sure where you're getting that idea. It means BETTER shadow detail. And it's really not opinion, the things I stated are based in fact.


----------



## scottyroo

blake18 said:


> Better blacks does not mean lower shadow detail, not sure where you're getting that idea. It means BETTER shadow detail. And it's really not opinion, the things I stated are based in fact.


You have made a few broad-stroke comments while speaking in 'absolute' subjective terms... 

Shadow detail is not a mutually exclusive benefit of 'better blacks'. I don't mean to be confrontational here but that is just false. That's not to say that a projector with good black levels can't do good shadow detail. However, shadow detail is achieved by proper grayscale, gradation, and tone mapping relative to the rest of the image that is being displayed. In fact, it is well documented that some projectors that have proven "good blacks" crush shadow detail with the tradeoff of those impressive blacks. 

Not trying to debate here so I won't. 

The good news is that the Epson 5050UB does a good job in both blacks and shadow detail; something I'm sure you'll be be happy to agree with without having seen the projector yet.


----------



## boblinds

ckronengold said:


> I don't want to hijack this thread and turn it into my own digital therapy session, but thats pretty much what it comes down to. Shield vs Panny player. It would be nice to be able to spin a disc, but I mostly just rip them to my network, so making that work would be ideal.
> 
> And there's no Panny 420 in the US. So I was leaning towards the 820. In for a dime, in for a dollar, I guess.


You'll find the Shield TV supports more A/V file formats than any dedicated UHD disc player's streaming features. However, the Panny 820 does have the highly desirable tone mapping which benefits projectors trying to play HDR content.


----------



## Dave in Green

Long before pixel shifters, DLP was always considered to be sharper than 3LCD due to the single DLP chip vs. 3 separate LCD panels that can never be in perfect alignment. Those who prioritize sharpness over other factors have always favored DLP. So that would be a factor in considering the difference in sharpness between 4x DLP and 2x 3LCD pixels shifters.


----------



## Herve

Does the BenQ have noticeable rainbow effect? Do you have to take extraordinary measures to see it, if at all?
Thanks.


----------



## jeahrens

blastermaster said:


> Again, that's other people's opinion, and I wonder what size screen they are viewing it on? I'm sitting at the THX recommended distance, which is quite close. There are other factors that are important to me as well. Sure the Epson may have better blacks, but to the detriment of losing shadow detail. Also important to me is smoothness of motion which seems to be better on the BenQ. I'll admit it's a tough decision and I would really like to see them in person to make a final judgement, but these forums are a great resource and are super helpful for those who can't actually get their hands on both.


I've seen 3 Epson 5040UBs and 1 Optoma 4K DLP. The Epsons were MUCH better in everything but sharpness. It honestly wasn't close. The only time I would pick the DLP would be a sports bar type setup, where the image is generally very bright and ambient light is a factor. The 4K DLP contrast is just very poor. With your 138" scope screen and lens, the Epson would be an easy pick for me.


----------



## scottyroo

Herve said:


> Does the BenQ have noticeable rainbow effect? Do you have to take extraordinary measures to see it, if at all?
> Thanks.


This features a fast RGBRGB color wheel which tends to reduce, if not eliminate RBE. I'm not sensitive to in the first place so I'm probably the wrong person to as.


----------



## blastermaster

jeahrens said:


> I've seen 3 Epson 5040UBs and 1 Optoma 4K DLP. The Epsons were MUCH better in everything but sharpness. It honestly wasn't close. The only time I would pick the DLP would be a sports bar type setup, where the image is generally very bright and ambient light is a factor. The 4K DLP contrast is just very poor. With your 138" scope screen and lens, the Epson would be an easy pick for me.


Good to know. Thanks. I'm really humming and hawing now about which direction to go. It would be really nice if Epson had a native 4K projector. Maybe I'll upgrade my seating first and wait another year...


----------



## jeahrens

blastermaster said:


> Good to know. Thanks. I'm really humming and hawing now about which direction to go. It would be really nice if Epson had a native 4K projector. Maybe I'll upgrade my seating first and wait another year...


There would certainly be places like text in games and such where the Epson would show it's resolution limitations, but I think overall it's pretty hard to beat it's perf/value proposition. I'm basing that on the 5040's, but I don't imagine the 5050 will do anything but improve upon it.


----------



## Lifeline99

Scott, thanks so much for your hard work! It is very much appreciated!!

One thing I haven't really seen discussed is how this new 5050 compares to the 5040. Other than the input bandwidth, what are the improvements over its predecessor?


----------



## Luminated67

Dave in Green said:


> Long before pixel shifters, DLP was always considered to be sharper than 3LCD due to the single DLP chip vs. 3 separate LCD panels that can never be in perfect alignment. Those who prioritize sharpness over other factors have always favored DLP. So that would be a factor in considering the difference in sharpness between 4x DLP and 2x 3LCD pixels shifters.


There’s no right or wrong in choosing, only what’s most important to you and at a price you feel comfortable with spending.


----------



## tschu

Lifeline99 said:


> Scott, thanks so much for your hard work! It is very much appreciated!!
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I haven't really seen discussed is how this new 5050 compares to the 5040. Other than the input bandwidth, what are the improvements over its predecessor?




I was thinking the same. What are the other benefits?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Lifeline99 said:


> Scott, thanks so much for your hard work! It is very much appreciated!!
> 
> One thing I haven't really seen discussed is how this new 5050 compares to the 5040. Other than the input bandwidth, what are the improvements over its predecessor?


I'm willing to bet that in a side by side blind test, 99% wouldn't be able to tell which is which. I'd love to be wrong, though.


----------



## blake18

scottyroo said:


> blake18 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Better blacks does not mean lower shadow detail, not sure where you're getting that idea. It means BETTER shadow detail. And it's really not opinion, the things I stated are based in fact.
> 
> 
> 
> You have made a few broad-stroke comments while speaking in 'absolute' subjective terms...
> 
> Shadow detail is not a mutually exclusive benefit of 'better blacks'. I don't mean to be confrontational here but that is just false. That's not to say that a projector with good black levels can't do good shadow detail. However, shadow detail is achieved by proper grayscale, gradation, and tone mapping relative to the rest of the image that is being displayed. In fact, it is well documented that some projectors that have proven "good blacks" crush shadow detail with the tradeoff of those impressive blacks.
> 
> Not trying to debate here so I won't.
> 
> The good news is that the Epson 5050UB does a good job in both blacks and shadow detail; something I'm sure you'll be be happy to agree with without having seen the projector yet. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

I actually wasn't aware of that, I stand corrected. You learn something new everyday. 🙂 What do you make of the low brightness uniformity of DLPs?


----------



## blake18

How does the BenQ 5550 compare to the Optoma UDH65, when comparing contrast and brightness uniformity?


----------



## scottyroo

blake18 said:


> How does the BenQ 5550 compare to the Optoma UDH65, when comparing contrast and brightness uniformity?


I haven't gone hands on with the UHD65 so I can't directly compare.... I'll try to do more tests around brightness uniformity tonight and share tomorrow?


----------



## Dave in Green

blake18 said:


> ... What do you make of the low brightness uniformity of DLPs?


Brightness uniformity is a measurement that projectorcentral.com has included in most of its projector reviews for years. DLP models have consistently scored lower than 3LCD and LCoS in this test. Most DLP models have measured in the 70%-80% range whereas most 3LCD models have tested in the 80%-90% range. Even Epson's lower cost HC 2150 measured 83% brightness uniformity. It's just a basic difference between the different technologies, just as single chip DLP has an inherent convergence advantage over 3-panel LCD and LCoS.

However, projectorcentral.com frequently notes that brightness uniformity is one of the least critical measurements because while it can be seen on a single color screen it's typically not noticeable when viewing content as long as its not significantly lower than ~70%. Like other aspects of projector images sensitivity to brightness uniformity can vary from individual to individual. Those who are especially sensitive to it could possibly find it to be an unacceptable issue for DLP. However, I don't recall a single person on this forum ever saying they wouldn't buy a DLP projector due to low brightness uniformity.


----------



## Janhaus

(Speaking purely subjectively)
Have spent almost a week with the 5050 now and I'm loving it. Of course it's compared to the 6030UB I had previously, so no contest.
Not super technical with calibration, just using Alaric's settings for SDR, HDR. Outside of initial issues setting up 4K, which I resolved via the receiver, everything works now.
Gaming on xbox, movies has been great as well - very impressed. I did see the reviews of the 5550 but decided the Epson was a better fit for what I use it for. Loving it so much I'm actually getting another - thought about waiting for some full reviews but I think I'm good with this model at this price point, no need to wait.


----------



## blake18

scottyroo said:


> blake18 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How does the BenQ 5550 compare to the Optoma UDH65, when comparing contrast and brightness uniformity?
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't gone hands on with the UHD65 so I can't directly compare.... I'll try to do more tests around brightness uniformity tonight and share tomorrow?
Click to expand...

That sounds great. 🙂 I really hope they start addressing the brightness uniformity issues with DLP and find a way to implement deeper blacks.


----------



## scottyroo

rjguk said:


> The Epson pic above looks like it has fringes from the panel alignment being out. Mine was like that, but it was easy enough to do the alignment and get a much sharper result.
> 
> 
> If that's already adjusted then fine, but my impression from the image shown is that shifting green down and left a pixel might help.




I went in and did a full four corner alignment on both red and blue on the 5050ub. Definitely an improvement from out of the box. For us folks who know what we are doing this isn’t a huge problem but most people never touch panel alignment and are left with quite a bit of convergence. Before and after below. And yes, before someone asks, the camera is in focus as is the Epson. 

Before










After


----------



## rpg-fanatic

scottyroo said:


> I went in and did a full four corner alignment on both red and blue on the 5050ub. Definitely an improvement from out of the box. For us folks who know what we are doing this isn’t a huge problem but most people never touch panel alignment and are left with quite a bit of convergence. Before and after below. And yes, before someone asks, the camera is in focus as is the Epson.
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After


Is that a 4K picture or 1080P? I ask because I have the 5040UB. And while I have yet to play any 4K material on it, I’ve found native 1080P images to look noticeably sharper with e-shift disabled. Though I’ve read actual 4K images look much better than e-shifted 1080P images. If it’s 1080P, I’d like to see how it looks without e-shift. Thanks.


----------



## scottyroo

rpg-fanatic said:


> Is that a 4K picture or 1080P? I ask because I have the 5040UB. And while I have yet to play any 4K material on it, I’ve found native 1080P images to look noticeably sharper with e-shift disabled. Though I’ve read actual 4K images look much better than e-shifted 1080P images. If it’s 1080P, I’d like to see how it looks without e-shift. Thanks.




It is 4K with e shift enabled


----------



## rpg-fanatic

scottyroo said:


> It is 4K with e shift enabled


Thanks. It reminds me of the softening effect I get when e-shifting 1080P on my 5040UB. I’ve disabled e-shift because everything honestly looks better to me with it off, at least with 1080P material. Still holding out for HDMI 2.1 before upgrading my AVR.


----------



## Zoltrix

Hi all,

Does anyone know the tech differences between the TW9400 and 8400? The Epson manual linked below has both models in the same manual suggesting they both support 18gbps (page 19) and the same resolutions (page 113).

https://cdn.competec.ch/documents/8/8/880949/EN_Manual_EH-TW9400.pdf

Cheers,
Zolt


----------



## ezelkow1

Zoltrix said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Does anyone know the tech differences between the TW9400 and 8400? The Epson manual linked below has both models in the same manual suggesting they both support 18gbps (page 19) and the same resolutions (page 113).
> 
> https://cdn.competec.ch/documents/8/8/880949/EN_Manual_EH-TW9400.pdf
> 
> Cheers,
> Zolt


https://www.justprojectors.com.au/epsonehtw8400.htm

Maybe yet another version for other regions? It looks like it has the same specs as the 7400/4010 with the 2400 lumens and 200k:1 contrast, but if it has 18gbps, then an updated 7400/4010?


----------



## Zoltrix

ezelkow1 said:


> https://www.justprojectors.com.au/epsonehtw8400.htm
> 
> Maybe yet another version for other regions? It looks like it has the same specs as the 7400/4010 with the 2400 lumens and 200k:1 contrast, but if it has 18gbps, then an updated 7400/4010?


But I thought the 7400 wasn't going support 18 gbps?


----------



## ezelkow1

ezelkow1 said:


> https://www.justprojectors.com.au/epsonehtw8400.htm
> 
> Maybe yet another version for other regions? It looks like it has the same specs as the 7400/4010 with the 2400 lumens and 200k:1 contrast, but if it has 18gbps, then an updated 7400/4010?


oooo, https://www.epson.com.au/products/projector/EH-TW8400.asp?groupid=127&grouptypeid=32

So it looks like its the consumer version of the 9400, so it is the 5050. AFAIK the 9400 is comparable to what could/could be the 6050. I.e. the black version, ISF certified, extra bulb and warranty, etc, there is no true 5050 EU/ROW version. According to those specs on the epson site though its the same as the 5050, so the cheaper consumer model.


----------



## mdcubsfan

So I saw on the original rumor thread that someone had recommended the Chief Mount RPA357

I don't know anything about mounts, but is this the mount most people would recommend for this larger projector?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod..._qa1tXGfviD3dUaAoSdEALw_wcB&lsft=BI:514&smp=y

Thanks, just trying to get everything lined up to get this projector installed....


----------



## Alaric

ezelkow1 said:


> oooo, https://www.epson.com.au/products/projector/EH-TW8400.asp?groupid=127&grouptypeid=32
> 
> 
> 
> So it looks like its the consumer version of the 9400, so it is the 5050. AFAIK the 9400 is comparable to what could/could be the 6050. I.e. the black version, ISF certified, extra bulb and warranty, etc, there is no true 5050 EU/ROW version. According to those specs on the epson site though its the same as the 5050, so the cheaper consumer model.


The 9400 comes in two versions. The cheaper black one and the more expensive white wireless one, though for 18gb HDMI input you have to use a cable, so the wireless is somewhat limited anyway!

Apart from that. They are the same. If this is closer to the 5050 or 6050 I'm not sure. It does have an isf logo on the box though!

As for upgrades from the older 9300 - 18gb HDMI, higher lumens, higher contrast, HDR 14pt slider vs 4 presets, HLG support, newer pixel shifter/lcd setup supposed to be smoother, 8pt greyscale calibration and a few other menu/setting tweaks that have popped up!

Don't know if the older ones had a panel uniformity calibration, I've yet to play with it, but it is similar to the panel alignment controls and gives the capability to get both perfect alignment and panel uniformity. 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## Janhaus

Somebody recommended the Peerless-AV PRGS-UNV and that's the mount I used. There's a UNV-W version which matches the color of the projector, if so inclined!



mdcubsfan said:


> So I saw on the original rumor thread that someone had recommended the Chief Mount RPA357
> 
> I don't know anything about mounts, but is this the mount most people would recommend for this larger projector?
> 
> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod..._qa1tXGfviD3dUaAoSdEALw_wcB&lsft=BI:514&smp=y
> 
> Thanks, just trying to get everything lined up to get this projector installed....


----------



## Luminated67

Think of the new 5050ub as a professional calibrator’s wet dream compared to the outgoing model.


----------



## mdcubsfan

Janhaus said:


> Somebody recommended the Peerless-AV PRGS-UNV and that's the mount I used. There's a UNV-W version which matches the color of the projector, if so inclined!


Does this allow you to take it off relatively easily if you ever need to fix/service the projector?


----------



## Janhaus

mdcubsfan said:


> Does this allow you to take it off relatively easily if you ever need to fix/service the projector?


Yeah it just slides on and holds in place via a holding screw, so taking it off is fairly simple.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

MidnightWatcher said:


> I'm willing to bet that in a side by side blind test, 99% wouldn't be able to tell which is which. I'd love to be wrong, though.


Dreamedia Home Theater has this to say about the 5050UB vs the 5040UB:



> [Epson] must have improved this processor [on the 5050] quite a bit because you can see the amount of pixelization in this particular scene [on the 5040] verses the new 5050. It's actually pretty dramatic. I mean, you can't even see these people's faces on the 5040 whereas over on the 5050 it's coming through ... not crystal clear like a native 4K projector, but it's not that bad... The e-shift that they incorporated into this new [5050] unit is much better, giving a more rich picture... there's definitely an increase in the color ... as well as the e-shift technology.


No word on how many hours the lamp had on the 5040 and how both were or were not calibrated, I'm sure this could make a difference in terms of the brightness and color, but the apparent improvement on the e-shift is worth mentioning.

He also stated that the dynamic contrast on the 5050 is the same as the 5040 (1,000,000:1), however the upcoming 6050 in May will be rated at 1,200,000:1. Not sure why that is.


----------



## ezelkow1

First look before the review at projectorreviews is up
https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...ater-projector-value-yet-a-first-look-review/

Fairly glowing, especially about its HDR performance, sounds like it mostly equals the sony's. Also between the pjr's and the above video sounds like the eshift really has had some revamping, plus the adding tone-mapping makes a huge difference

So still stuck, 5050 with more brightness and possibly better colors, or 5550 with more-ish pixels and sharpness


----------



## Hawkmarket

ezelkow1 said:


> First look before the review at projectorreviews is up
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...ater-projector-value-yet-a-first-look-review/
> 
> Fairly glowing, especially about its HDR performance, sounds like it mostly equals the sony's. Also between the pjr's and the above video sounds like the eshift really has had some revamping, plus the adding tone-mapping makes a huge difference
> 
> So still stuck, 5050 with more brightness and possibly better colors, or 5550 with more-ish pixels and sharpness


Sounds like Epson will continue with their trend of being the best bang for your buck with their UB series. You can improve upon their picture but the incremental differences start to cost thousands of dollars. They hit that sweet spot for me. Looking forward to a 5050 in my future.


----------



## scottyroo

ezelkow1 said:


> First look before the review at projectorreviews is up
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...ater-projector-value-yet-a-first-look-review/
> 
> 
> 
> Fairly glowing, especially about its HDR performance, sounds like it mostly equals the sony's. Also between the pjr's and the above video sounds like the eshift really has had some revamping, plus the adding tone-mapping makes a huge difference
> 
> 
> 
> So still stuck, 5050 with more brightness and possibly better colors, or 5550 with more-ish pixels and sharpness




Spoke with Art on the phone over the weekend. I know he was excited to share his impressions. Seems to have hit the sweet spot for him.


----------



## mikero

I wish there were somebody like ifixit - but for projectors - who can tear down projectors and see what was actually changed between update cycles. 5040 and 5050 share same light source, same body and probably same lenses. Good chances that there are just some software updates and minor hardware tweaks (like 18gbps hdmi). For myself - I decided to save exactly 2k$ (price difference between refurb 5040 and new 5050ub with taxes) and stick for 5040ub (I also have hdfury - so 18gpbs not a big deal). In a year or two - will update to bright laser projector to deal with 150" screen I have


----------



## MidnightWatcher

ezelkow1 said:


> First look before the review at projectorreviews is up
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...ater-projector-value-yet-a-first-look-review/
> 
> Fairly glowing, especially about its HDR performance, sounds like it mostly equals the sony's. Also between the pjr's and the above video sounds like the eshift really has had some revamping, plus the adding tone-mapping makes a huge difference
> 
> So still stuck, 5050 with more brightness and possibly better colors, or 5550 with more-ish pixels and sharpness


I was considering a move from my 5030UB to a refurbished 5040UB, but Art Feierman's comments below from Projector Reviews have convinced me to hold out for a deal on the 5050UB. I am at peace. 

_Art Feierman of Projector Reviews:_



> *On paper, the 5050UB is not a significant improvement over its [5040UB] predecessor. The reality is quite different.* [...]
> 
> Welcome to a brave new world where HDR looks killer! [...]
> 
> Thanks to the Tone mapping, and a touch more brightness claimed (we’ll post our full measurements for the full review), the HC5050UB is easily a significant step up in picture quality for 4K content with HDR and P3. [...]
> 
> With the older UB, many enthusiasts calibrating their own projectors chose to rely on the brighter Bright Cinema mode for HDR (sacrificing the wider P3 color gamut). I admit that is a tempting solution, although I mostly stuck to viewing with Digital Cinema, with barely half the overall brightness. With the Home Cinema 5050UB, however, even Digital Cinema HDR content looked definitely bright enough at my full 124” diagonal image size! [...]
> 
> When it comes to the overall picture quality (specifically 4K with HDR), *the Home Cinema 5050UB produces a real, and obvious improvement over the best results I could come up with in 2+ years of playing with the 5040UB.* Most of that folks, is due to the new tone mapping. [...]
> 
> _f you have been waiting a few years to move to a 4K capable projector – and your budget doesn’t allow for native 4K: This is probably your ticket! I do believe your time has come to make the upgrade! While the Home Cinema 5050UB, despite excellent image detail processing, will not match the sharpness/detail of a very good 4K UHD DLP, or a native 4K LCoS projector, it looks far sharper, with definitely more detail than say older Epson’s like the non-4K capable 5030UB._


----------



## tschu

MidnightWatcher said:


> I was considering a move from my 5030UB to a refurbished 5040UB, but Art Feierman's comments below from Projector Reviews have convinced me to hold out for a deal on the 5050UB. I am at peace.
> 
> 
> 
> _Art Feierman of Projector Reviews:_




Are there anymore places for refurb 5040’s besides Epson that are sold out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ezelkow1

Well after going back and forth in my head against the 5550 I think Im settled back on the 5050. Epson is known territory for me wrt to placement, brightness, etc, and after looking up recommended viewing distances for 4k at 100in vs 11.5ft distance it looks like Im barely on the cusp of being able to notice a difference in 4k, so I think the 2x vs 4x shifter probably wont make much of a difference in my environment but the extra power for HDR and blacks probably will. So I think its time pull the trigger


----------



## MidnightWatcher

tschu said:


> Are there anymore places for refurb 5040’s besides Epson that are sold out?


Directly from Epson is the only place in aware of. I had been checking daily for the past two weeks (Epson Canada) and it's been sold out.


----------



## ezelkow1

Also just found this from the guys who did one of the first looks,





Seems interesting, sounds like they have a filter that they sell with their edition and then calibrate against that lets you run at fully dynamic mode, but the filter removes the green shift. So you can run at full blast brightness while still retaining good color. Wonder if theres anyway to buy these filters somewhere else


----------



## tschu

MidnightWatcher said:


> Directly from Epson is the only place in aware of. I had been checking daily for the past two weeks (Epson Canada) and it's been sold out.




Me too, haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bitmap42

ezelkow1 said:


> Also just found this from the guys who did one of the first looks,
> 
> Seems interesting, sounds like they have a filter that they sell with their edition and then calibrate against that lets you run at fully dynamic mode, but the filter removes the green shift. So you can run at full blast brightness while still retaining good color. Wonder if theres anyway to buy these filters somewhere else


Be super careful with this idea... Epsons (and many others for that matter) are generally relatively quiet in low and medium light modes, but are very loud when running at their highest brightness. If you have the projector close to your seating position this might be a non-starter because it will be extremely distracting.


----------



## GoCuse

ezelkow1 said:


> Well after going back and forth in my head against the 5550 I think Im settled back on the 5050. Epson is known territory for me wrt to placement, brightness, etc, and after looking up *recommended viewing distances for 4k at 100in vs 11.5ft distance* it looks like Im barely on the cusp of being able to notice a difference in 4k, so I think the 2x vs 4x shifter probably wont make much of a difference in my environment but the extra power for HDR and blacks probably will. So I think its time pull the trigger


How do I look this up? My screen is 120" and my first row of seating is about 11' from the screen. When I eventually upgrade my projector I am going to consider upgrading my screen and possibly going a bit smaller (110"?) if it make sense.


----------



## ezelkow1

GoCuse said:


> How do I look this up? My screen is 120" and my first row of seating is about 11' from the screen. When I eventually upgrade my projector I am going to consider upgrading my screen and possibly going a bit smaller (110"?) if it make sense.


https://www.inchcalculator.com/tv-size-viewing-distance-calculator/

But you can google for 4k viewing distance calculator, there are a bunch out there. They all just go by the THX and SMPTE preferred viewing sizes. Im sure even at my distance there will be a noticeable impact since for 90in it ranges from 9-14, so 100in is probably more like 10-15, but I am slightly outside the real sweet spot, I probably should have worded that better and not say 'notice a difference in 4k' since it will still be noticable


----------



## ANGELUS

scottyroo said:


> Stable 26.8-26.9ms on both HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 with 4K enhancement on and off. Interestingly, input lag results on both “image processing fine” and “fast” were identical. I am testing with a 1080p Bodnar from the middle of screen. Several European review outlets have the 4K Bodnar device and are testing at 22ms of input lag in 4K HDR. This is VERY good.
> 
> The Epson 5050UB is the fastest input lag from a 4 million pixel HDR projector (or any shifter for that matter) we have seen. The Optoma HD27HDR is the fastest 1080p (2 million pixel) HDR projector at 16ms (effectively zero. 16ms is the floor for 60fps and the optoma can technically do 8ms in 120hz mode). The BenQ TK800M is the fastest 8 million pixel ‘true’ 4K HDR projector at 42ms (that costs under $5,000).
> 
> If they can afford the cost of entry, gamers will be happy with this guy.


Thank you for this. I just found out about this projector last night, and haven't seen anyone else measure the input lag yet. After getting some bad burn-in on an LG OLED from gaming, I think I'm going projector for the living room this year, and this Epson just shot to the top of the list.


----------



## scottyroo

ANGELUS said:


> Thank you for this. I just found out about this projector last night, and haven't seen anyone else measure the input lag yet. After getting some bad burn-in on an LG OLED from gaming, I think I'm going projector for the living room this year, and this Epson just shot to the top of the list.


A first runner up for still very good 4K gaming performance is the BenQ TK800M @ $1,299. For 4K HDR gamers on a budget, this is my top pick. The 42ms input lag of the TK800M is truly imperceptible by ME playing first person shooters.


----------



## ANGELUS

scottyroo said:


> A first runner up for still very good 4K gaming performance is the BenQ TK800M @ $1,299. For 4K HDR gamers on a budget, this is my top pick. The 42ms input lag of the TK800M is truly imperceptible by ME playing first person shooters.


That's a great looking projector and thanks for the added option. I think the Epson will be a better fit for me despite the higher price (or maybe because of it). I likely would notice the input lag, and am also sensitive to DLP rainbows. When playing a fighting game or a game like Sekiro both those things would probably bother me a little bit every day on the BenQ.


----------



## scottyroo

ANGELUS said:


> That's a great looking projector and thanks for the added option. I think the Epson will be a better fit for me despite the higher price (or maybe because of it). I likely would notice the input lag, and am also sensitive to DLP rainbows. When playing a fighting game or a game like Sekiro both those things would probably bother me a little bit every day on the BenQ.


Yep. If you can afford it the Epson is the gaming champ for now.


----------



## FendersRule

My 8700UB is on its last leg. Obviously it's many generations old. I'm assuming the 5050UB will be a massive upgrade for 1080p content?

For watching 1080p content, is the general consensus to leave e-shift settings off to make sure you're getting the sharpest picture? I have a 106" screen in a bedroom that's basically a mini HT room, and I sit about 8' away (front row), and I don't get any "screen door" effect.

Obviously the consensus for watching 4k material is to use Eshift.

The other improvements over the 8700UB that I'm really looking forward to is: 1) finally being able to watch 3D movies, 2) having super good input lag...the 8700UB is a big slow by today's standards. Just not sure what else I should expect because $2999 is a little hard to swallow!


----------



## Malodium

scottyroo said:


> I used a Canon 6D in these shots. All were shot with 1/5 shutter speed, 4000 ISO, f5.6.
> 
> Benq HT5550 on left. Epson 5050 on right.
> 
> Epson has better black floor (see letter boxes in HDR) but hopefully you can pick up in the shots that the BenQ has better shadow detail. That is what I am seeing in person at least.
> 
> HDR default. Both are in default Modes out of box settings in this picture. Both P3 filters on. Both irises are on. Epson set to Digital Cinema.
> 
> 
> 
> SDR Default. BenQ Cinema (Rec709) Mode and Epson Natural Mode. My 1080p SDR version of the film had the IMAX 16:10 ratios baked in. Filters off. Iris on.
> 
> 
> 
> Preferred HDR. BenQ set to HDR Brightness +1. That’s it. Epson is using calibrated settings from @*Alaric* based on Dogital Cinema. Both filters and irises still on.
> 
> 
> 
> Preferred SDR. BenQ Cinema (Rec709) mode. Brilliant Color. @*Alaric* ‘s calibrated SDR mode based on Natural. Filters off. Irises on.



Removed the photos to make the reply shorter but... are those supposed to be split down the middle with BenQ on one side and the Epson on the other? I literally cannot see a single difference between the two sides. I guess that means I should go for the BenQ since its much cheaper.


----------



## kaotikr1

FendersRule said:


> My 8700UB is on its last leg. Obviously it's many generations old. I'm assuming the 5050UB will be a massive upgrade for 1080p content?
> 
> For watching 1080p content, is the general consensus to leave e-shift settings off to make sure you're getting the sharpest picture? I have a 106" screen in a bedroom that's basically a mini HT room, and I sit about 8' away (front row), and I don't get any "screen door" effect.
> 
> Obviously the consensus for watching 4k material is to use Eshift.
> 
> The other improvements over the 8700UB that I'm really looking forward to is: 1) finally being able to watch 3D movies, 2) having super good input lag...the 8700UB is a big slow by today's standards. Just not sure what else I should expect because $2999 is a little hard to swallow!


I remember one of my first projectors was a Epson 1080UB and went through a few Epsons over the years and was always impressed with them for the price. I haven't owned one in quite a while but just checking out some initial reviews on the 5050UB and it seems it's going to be a great projector in the under 3K market. It would for sure be one I would consider if I was in the market at that price range.


----------



## WynsWrld98

FendersRule said:


> My 8700UB is on its last leg. Obviously it's many generations old. I'm assuming the 5050UB will be a massive upgrade for 1080p content?
> 
> For watching 1080p content, is the general consensus to leave e-shift settings off to make sure you're getting the sharpest picture? I have a 106" screen in a bedroom that's basically a mini HT room, and I sit about 8' away (front row), and I don't get any "screen door" effect.
> 
> Obviously the consensus for watching 4k material is to use Eshift.
> 
> The other improvements over the 8700UB that I'm really looking forward to is: 1) finally being able to watch 3D movies, 2) having super good input lag...the 8700UB is a big slow by today's standards. Just not sure what else I should expect because $2999 is a little hard to swallow!


When the Epson receives a 4K signal it sets eShift on and you cannot turn it off. This is true even if the real source is a 1080p signal something else upscaled to 4K and sends it to the Epson. I don't see a significant difference with eShift off or on when my Epson 5040 is fed 1080p signals.

Those who say you can't do HDR on projectors I don't know what to say. I use the Natural setting and tweak it for an HDR memory on my 5040 and it's beautiful. Rarely you'll watch some HDR content that is super dim (must be how it was mastered or some such) but normally HDR looks really good on my 5040.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

WynsWrld98 said:


> I use the Natural setting and tweak it for an HDR memory on my 5040 and it's beautiful. Rarely you'll watch some HDR content that is super dim (must be how it was mastered or some such) but normally HDR looks really good on my 5040.


Do you use customized gamma points/curves? I'm curious if customized gamma curves on the 5040 can be created and saved to mimic the tone mapping steps of the 5050.


----------



## VideoDrone

*Question?*

I have a question for 5050ub owners. What is the distance between the front and rear feet measured at the center of each feet? I have a rear shelf that is smaller than the depth of the projector, but it might fit depending on where the feet are located at.


----------



## zdoggz

Does anyone know if the 5050ube’s wireless capability supports hdr and/or p3 color? All I’ve read is that it supports [email protected]


----------



## Scosdaddy

First off, 

Appreesh all knowledge given here for free.

I am building my theater now and will have the following dimensions:

120" screen
First row of Rialto mid row chairs 11ft from screen, 2nd row of Rialto back row chairs starting 3ft back (head at 16ft), then riser with granite Bartop and stools. Back wall about 23ft back from screen.

Looking at Epson for their enormous throw distance (projector central says 5040 and 5050 can go up to 24ft 9") and great zoom and shift capacity.

Shelf mounting the pj flush inside back wall so lens will be about 23ft from screen

Will the brightness be strong enough in a fully lighting controlled theater with no ambient light where I don't have to run in high mode?

Was about to pull trigger on 5040 then saw the 5050 just arrived.


----------



## zdoggz

Scosdaddy said:


> First off,
> 
> Appreesh all knowledge given here for free.
> 
> I am building my theater now and will have the following dimensions:
> 
> 120" screen
> First row of Rialto mid row chairs 11ft from screen, 2nd row of Rialto back row chairs starting 3ft back (head at 16ft), then riser with granite Bartop and stools. Back wall about 23ft back from screen.
> 
> Looking at Epson for their enormous throw distance (projector central says 5040 and 5050 can go up to 24ft 9") and great zoom and shift capacity.
> 
> Shelf mounting the pj flush inside back wall so lens will be about 23ft from screen
> 
> Will the brightness be strong enough in a fully lighting controlled theater with no ambient light where I don't have to run in high mode?
> 
> Was about to pull trigger on 5040 then saw the 5050 just arrived.


Using the following tool helps you to get an idea of what to expect (looks like you can expect about 25fL assuming a 1.0 gain screen). From what I understand, these estimates will get more accurate over time as they are able to test the units rather than rely generally on the specs. It’s a good tool to use for an estimate though. Looks like you should be good to go. 

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## Scosdaddy

zdoggz said:


> Using the following tool helps you to get an idea of what to expect (looks like you can expect about 25fL assuming a 1.0 gain screen). From what I understand, these estimates will get more accurate over time as they are able to test the units rather than rely generally on the specs. It’s a good tool to use for an estimate though. Looks like you should be good to go.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm



Yeah I see that there but don't know what a fL represents on the brightness scale (nor what that scale looks like LOL) and if 25 is good from 20ft if sitting and eating at the back bar. Is it plenty bright in a light controlled room or would it have to be completely dark to see it well?


----------



## scottyroo

Scosdaddy said:


> First off,
> 
> 
> 
> Appreesh all knowledge given here for free.
> 
> 
> 
> I am building my theater now and will have the following dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 120" screen
> 
> First row of Rialto mid row chairs 11ft from screen, 2nd row of Rialto back row chairs starting 3ft back (head at 16ft), then riser with granite Bartop and stools. Back wall about 23ft back from screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at Epson for their enormous throw distance (projector central says 5040 and 5050 can go up to 24ft 9") and great zoom and shift capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> Shelf mounting the pj flush inside back wall so lens will be about 23ft from screen
> 
> 
> 
> Will the brightness be strong enough in a fully lighting controlled theater with no ambient light where I don't have to run in high mode?
> 
> 
> 
> Was about to pull trigger on 5040 then saw the 5050 just arrived.




You will be fine.


----------



## Scosdaddy

scottyroo said:


> You will be fine.


Thanks!!!!


----------



## Alaric

Scosdaddy said:


> First off,
> 
> 
> 
> Appreesh all knowledge given here for free.
> 
> 
> 
> I am building my theater now and will have the following dimensions:
> 
> 
> 
> 120" screen
> 
> First row of Rialto mid row chairs 11ft from screen, 2nd row of Rialto back row chairs starting 3ft back (head at 16ft), then riser with granite Bartop and stools. Back wall about 23ft back from screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at Epson for their enormous throw distance (projector central says 5040 and 5050 can go up to 24ft 9") and great zoom and shift capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> Shelf mounting the pj flush inside back wall so lens will be about 23ft from screen
> 
> 
> 
> Will the brightness be strong enough in a fully lighting controlled theater with no ambient light where I don't have to run in high mode?
> 
> 
> 
> Was about to pull trigger on 5040 then saw the 5050 just arrived.


I've got the TW9400, the UK equivalent. I've a 120" screen and sit about 12' away, the pj is ceiling mounted at 14', light controlled and lots of velvet on the walls/ceiling too!

It throws a fantastic picture and I'm very happy with it. My standard SDR setting is low power and after calibration (Natural) the iris is down at - 4 with 16ftl which is the recommended max.
I've light to spare and an awesome picture.

HDR with the filter after calibration, depends on the film, high is bright and very good at the low end of the slider, but that is running on high power, the PJ is pretty close and with a film going it is rarely an issue. The noisy is way less than an unmodified inuke for example!

I also created a slightly less accurate HDR setting using the Natural mode and found that it a bit bright at the mid point of the HDR slider, i dropped the slider a notch and switched to Medium and was happier on Transformers The Last Knight.

Great thing about having high mode is that you get to make that choice, quieter for a little less accurate or brighter when you need it!
You get 3 power modes, optional filter and lots of flexibility 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

ezelkow1 said:


> Well after going back and forth in my head against the 5550 I think Im settled back on the 5050. Epson is known territory for me wrt to placement, brightness, etc, and after looking up recommended viewing distances for 4k at 100in vs 11.5ft distance it looks like Im barely on the cusp of being able to notice a difference in 4k, so I think the 2x vs 4x shifter probably wont make much of a difference in my environment but the extra power for HDR and blacks probably will. So I think its time pull the trigger


I made the exact same decision based on the exact same calculations. 
I'm currently at 11' from a 110" 16:9 screen. And I'm upgrading from a 5030, so I wasn't ready to give up on the contrast, deep blacks, and extra brightness for sports and Disney movies with the kids with some lights on.


----------



## ckronengold

GoCuse said:


> How do I look this up? My screen is 120" and my first row of seating is about 11' from the screen. When I eventually upgrade my projector I am going to consider upgrading my screen and possibly going a bit smaller (110"?) if it make sense.


Here's a drop dead simple one:
https://www.screeninnovations.com/tools/screen-size-calculator/

and one with a few more variables:
http://myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html


----------



## jpolachak

ckronengold said:


> I made the exact same decision based on the exact same calculations.
> I'm currently at 11' from a 110" 16:9 screen. And I'm upgrading from a 5030, so I wasn't ready to give up on the contrast, deep blacks, and extra brightness for sports and Disney movies with the kids with some lights on.


 Can you give me an idea of what you thought of your upgrade? 

I have a 5030 and compared it to my brothers NX5 and I was blown away at how close they really are in a room that has some ambient light. We were never able to get HDR streamed video to the NX5 at his house due to network bandwidth issues it looked like and his crappy amazon fire tv cube. But with 4k content it was sharper on the nx5 with better color but for thousands more than the 5030. Even he said it wasn't worth it in his opinion. All settings on NX5 were out of the box settings. He only streams content to his projector so we did not have the ability to use HDR Blu-ray disks.


----------



## ckronengold

Question re: tone mapping from the projector vs tone mapping from a disc player. 

I was considering picking up a Panny 820 to spin 4k discs, which is supposed to have excellent tone mapping. Is this redundant? Can you turn off the tone mapping in the 5050 if you wanted to? I know its early, so its probably a silly question to ask about comparing the tone mapping of the 5050 to the Panny 820. 

But after ordering the 5050, I don't have a ton of wiggle room in the budget anymore, and I'd still like a 2.35:1 screen and a bigger subwoofer. I was hoping to skimp on the player since I watch most of my content over my home network, but the Roku Ultra and Chromecast Ultra both lack the ability to pass through an Atmos (or any HD audio) signal. 

So its coming down to buying a disc player (probably a good idea) or a nVidia Shield (least expensive, but do I really need another streamer?) or building a new HTPC with an intel chip (most expensive option).

Would the Epson tone map the already tone mapped signal from the panny? and would that make it better or worse?


----------



## ezelkow1

ckronengold said:


> So its coming down to buying a disc player (probably a good idea) or a nVidia Shield (least expensive, but do I really need another streamer?) or building a new HTPC with an intel chip (most expensive option).


At this point Id definitely skip the HTPC route, unless you have a need for tuners and such. I used to run a custom linux one and ended up ditching it in prep for an upgrade to 4k and switched to a shield. Theres just no fuss trying to get everything working properly on it vs the htpc (though my use case is streaming from my NAS/DAS so it more depends on what you are doing)


----------



## jeahrens

ckronengold said:


> Question re: tone mapping from the projector vs tone mapping from a disc player.
> 
> I was considering picking up a Panny 820 to spin 4k discs, which is supposed to have excellent tone mapping. Is this redundant? Can you turn off the tone mapping in the 5050 if you wanted to? I know its early, so its probably a silly question to ask about comparing the tone mapping of the 5050 to the Panny 820.
> 
> But after ordering the 5050, I don't have a ton of wiggle room in the budget anymore, and I'd still like a 2.35:1 screen and a bigger subwoofer. I was hoping to skimp on the player since I watch most of my content over my home network, but the Roku Ultra and Chromecast Ultra both lack the ability to pass through an Atmos (or any HD audio) signal.
> 
> So its coming down to buying a disc player (probably a good idea) or a nVidia Shield (least expensive, but do I really need another streamer?) or building a new HTPC with an intel chip (most expensive option).
> 
> Would the Epson tone map the already tone mapped signal from the panny? and would that make it better or worse?


There's not a TON of data out there on dual tone mapping solutions because this is new territory. However on the JVC threads it seems that a dual solution is providing a better overall picture. Especially in cases like Disney titles which provide no metadata for mapping. The Panasonic player has luminance settings that it uses as a target, including one for projectors. If it sees a title with no metadata it will assume the video is targeted at 1000 nits and map it to the luminance target you set (projector). This generally a substantial help as most auto tonemapping solutions do nothing in the absence of metadata. Video with metadata will also get mapped to the luminance target by the Panasonic, just a lot more accurately since it not mapping from an assumed value. This then gets passed to the projector which then sees the data the Panasonic is passing and maps it based on the algorithms it has internally. So the Panasonic is getting the video to a generic luminance target (its projector setting in this case) and the projector is customizing it from there based on it's settings. It's still not perfect, but it is better. And in cases like Disney where there is no metadata it will get you a LOT closer to where you want it. You may still have to do a tweak here or there but, it will be a lot more plug and play.


----------



## ckronengold

jpolachak said:


> Can you give me an idea of what you thought of your upgrade? I have a 5030 and compared it to my brothers NX5 and I was blown away at how close they really are in a room that has some ambient light. We were never able to get HDR streamed video to the NX5 at his house due to network bandwidth issues it looked like and his crappy amazon fire tv cube. But with 4k content it was sharper on the nx5 with better color but for thousands more than the 5030. Even he said it wasn't worth it in his opinion. All settings on NX5 were out of the box settings. He only streams content to his projector so we did not have the ability to use HDR Blu-ray disks.


I will as soon as I get it! 

I originally was looking at the NX5 before the Epson 5050 came out, but just couldn't justify paying more than double for moderate improvement in a few areas. I never felt like my 5030 wasn't "black enough" when watching dark movies or scenes of deep space. And I used black velvet masking, so I never had any problems with the grey bars either. 

Is the NX5 a better projector? Maybe. But is native 4k vs faux-K worth 2x the price? Not for me. Does the NX5 do a slightly better job on black level? Seems that way. $3000 better? Not likely IMHO.


----------



## ckronengold

jeahrens said:


> The Panasonic player has luminance settings that it uses as a target, including one for projectors. If it sees a title with no metadata it will assume the video is targeted at 1000 nits and map it to the luminance target you set (projector). This generally a substantial help as most auto tonemapping solutions do nothing in the absence of metadata. Video with metadata will also get mapped to the luminance target by the Panasonic, just a lot more accurately since it not mapping from an assumed value. This then gets passed to the projector which then sees the data the Panasonic is passing and maps it based on the algorithms it has internally. So the Panasonic is getting the video to a generic luminance target (its projector setting in this case) and the projector is customizing it from there based on it's settings. It's still not perfect, but it is better. And in cases like Disney where there is no metadata it will get you a LOT closer to where you want it. You may still have to do a tweak here or there but, it will be a lot more plug and play.


SUPER helpful! Thats one check in the plus column for a disc spinner.


----------



## jeahrens

ckronengold said:


> I will as soon as I get it!
> 
> I originally was looking at the NX5 before the Epson 5050 came out, but just couldn't justify paying more than double for moderate improvement in a few areas. I never felt like my 5030 wasn't "black enough" when watching dark movies or scenes of deep space. And I used black velvet masking, so I never had any problems with the grey bars either.
> 
> Is the NX5 a better projector? Maybe. But is native 4k vs faux-K worth 2x the price? Not for me. Does the NX5 do a slightly better job on black level? Seems that way. $3000 better? Not likely IMHO.


There's not a single component in this hobby you won't hit the law of diminishing returns with. Are $30k speakers 10x better than $3k? Not from my experience. Heck are the $3k speakers 10x better than a $300 set? 

I've not seen the JVC 4K lineup in person. I have seen several Epson 5040 UBs and several e-shift JVCs (I own one). The Epson has been my go to for entry level 4K recommendations. I expect when I get to see the 5050 it will easily take that spot. However, does that mean the JVC isn't worth it? No. The contrast and punch from the JVC is easily discernible in a dedicated room. Both calibrated have similar light output, but the JVC simply has a depth to it's picture the Epson doesn't. It's up to you whether that extra performance is worth the premium. You certainly aren't going to feel shortchanged with the Epson, it's a fine unit. It's just a matter of where your particular price/performance pain threshold is.


----------



## mdcubsfan

*screen size....*



ckronengold said:


> Here's a drop dead simple one:
> https://www.screeninnovations.com/tools/screen-size-calculator/
> 
> and one with a few more variables:
> http://myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html


As I'm looking to get a new 5050, looking also to upgrade screen size. Don't understand many of the technical terms and what they mean(SMPTE, THX viewing distances), but looking at this first calculator you posted, it says I need a 174" screen to notice significant differences?!

Currently have a 90 and was hoping to upgrade to a 120 or 135...


----------



## chi_hawks_23

jeahrens said:


> There's not a single component in this hobby you won't hit the law of diminishing returns with. Are $30k speakers 10x better than $3k? Not from my experience. Heck are the $3k speakers 10x better than a $300 set?
> 
> I've not seen the JVC 4K lineup in person. I have seen several Epson 5040 UBs and several e-shift JVCs (I own one). The Epson has been my go to for entry level 4K recommendations. I expect when I get to see the 5050 it will easily take that spot. However, does that mean the JVC isn't worth it? No. The contrast and punch from the JVC is easily discernible in a dedicated room. Both calibrated have similar light output, but the JVC simply has a depth to it's picture the Epson doesn't. It's up to you whether that extra performance is worth the premium. You certainly aren't going to feel shortchanged with the Epson, it's a fine unit. It's just a matter of where your particular price/performance pain threshold is.


I think the value prop line on that "returns chart" starts to get awfully flat though, after the epson 5050. Kudos to them for coming out with a projector that is fairly good across the board but not great - which covers what most people are willing to pay. I'd give anything to see this next to the 695 and nx7. My gut tells me I'd see a difference that I'd be willing to pay maybe 1 or 2k for, tops.


----------



## jeahrens

chi_hawks_23 said:


> I think the value prop line on that "returns chart" starts to get awfully flat though, after the epson 5050. Kudos to them for coming out with a projector that is fairly good across the board but not great - which covers what most people are willing to pay. I'd give anything to see this next to the 695 and nx7. My gut tells me I'd see a difference that I'd be willing to pay maybe 1 or 2k for, tops.


Honestly at this point I see the Sony lineup as overpriced. They're dimmer than the JVCs. The 695 spec wise lines up more closely to the NX5. The 295 lacks a lot vs. the NX5. The NX7 has a dual iris system and filter for wide color gamut both Sony's lack. Granted we haven't seen the head to head comparisons in the works so reality may tell a different tale.

And it's all about where that line falls for you. I had a local 5040 owner visit and his reaction to the RS520 involved some phrases not appropriate to type on here  He was impressed.


----------



## chi_hawks_23

jeahrens said:


> There's not a single component in this hobby you won't hit the law of diminishing returns with. Are $30k speakers 10x better than $3k? Not from my experience. Heck are the $3k speakers 10x better than a $300 set?
> 
> I've not seen the JVC 4K lineup in person. I have seen several Epson 5040 UBs and several e-shift JVCs (I own one). The Epson has been my go to for entry level 4K recommendations. I expect when I get to see the 5050 it will easily take that spot. However, does that mean the JVC isn't worth it? No. The contrast and punch from the JVC is easily discernible in a dedicated room. Both calibrated have similar light output, but the JVC simply has a depth to it's picture the Epson doesn't. It's up to you whether that extra performance is worth the premium. You certainly aren't going to feel shortchanged with the Epson, it's a fine unit. It's just a matter of where your particular price/performance pain threshold is.





jeahrens said:


> Honestly at this point I see the Sony lineup as overpriced. They're dimmer than the JVCs. The 695 spec wise lines up more closely to the NX5. The 295 lacks a lot vs. the NX5. The NX7 has a dual iris system and filter for wide color gamut both Sony's lack. Granted we haven't seen the head to head comparisons in the works so reality may tell a different tale.
> 
> And it's all about where that line falls for you. I had a local 5040 owner visit and his reaction to the RS520 involved some phrases not appropriate to type on here  He was impressed.


You aren't the first person to mention the JVCs. I've been tempted to look into the rs540 more. 

I got to see the 295 and 5040 compared at a store here in central Iowa. With the room completely dimmed, the 295 looked a little bit better with all the lights off. With some ambient light (some, not much) the 5040 looked better. both on an ALR screen, 120''. Factoring in the price difference, the 5040 was clearly a better choice for me. But Im waiting as I want to see the 5050 reviews and perception first.

Like many of us on here, I would drop NX5 type money (or 7 but may get yelled out by wife) on a projector in a hearbeat if I knew it would future proof me for a number and years AND was a significant step up on the projector offerings in the 5050 MSRP range. But that 2x cost difference is really tough to digest. My new basement isn't done til mid May so I'm not in a huge rush to get one right now - which is ideal. Curious for the late april shootout between sony/jvc and also to see how the reviews keep trickling in for the 5050.


----------



## jeahrens

chi_hawks_23 said:


> You aren't the first person to mention the JVCs. I've been tempted to look into the rs540 more.
> 
> I got to see the 295 and 5040 compared at a store here in central Iowa. With the room completely dimmed, the 295 looked a little bit better with all the lights off. With some ambient light (some, not much) the 5040 looked better. both on an ALR screen, 120''. Factoring in the price difference, the 5040 was clearly a better choice for me. But Im waiting as I want to see the 5050 reviews and perception first.
> 
> Like many of us on here, I would drop NX5 type money (or 7 but may get yelled out by wife) on a projector in a hearbeat if I knew it would future proof me for a number and years AND was a significant step up on the projector offerings in the 5050 MSRP range. But that 2x cost difference is really tough to digest. My new basement isn't done til mid May so I'm not in a huge rush to get one right now - which is ideal. Curious for the late april shootout between sony/jvc and also to see how the reviews keep trickling in for the 5050.


Probably AV Logic on 100th I'm guessing. The Sony vs. the Epson is going to be a closer race in my opinion than it looks on paper. Yes the Sony's have a native 4K panel, but without some service menu tricks they can't resolve single pixel 4K patterns. Even with the tricks their optics and processing still don't get there, just closer. The Epson calibrated vs. the Sony calibrated, the Epson has a substantial lumen advantage. So while the Sony has a resolution advantage, I feel like the lumen advantage of the Epson would give it an edge when doing 4K HDR. The Sony has a contrast advantage over the Epson, but it's not nearly what a JVC has. So when you consider the price differential, the Sony in my opinion is much harder sell vs. the Epson.

I hesitate to recommend the RS540 on here not because I don't feel it's future proof or the e-shift is lacking, but mainly because JVC is only producing so many before they only produce the NX line. So hard to get someone committed to a model that they may or may not be able to buy.

FWIW I evaluated a few native 4K Sony models (285/360) before pulling the trigger on my RS520 and felt the JVC had a better overall picture.


----------



## JackB

Alaric said:


> I've got the TW9400, the UK equivalent. I've a 120" screen and sit about 12' away, the pj is ceiling mounted at 14', light controlled and lots of velvet on the walls/ceiling too!
> 
> It throws a fantastic picture and I'm very happy with it. My standard SDR setting is low power and after calibration (Natural) the iris is down at - 4 with 16ftl which is the recommended max.
> I've light to spare and an awesome picture.
> 
> HDR with the filter after calibration, depends on the film, high is bright and very good at the low end of the slider, but that is running on high power, the PJ is pretty close and with a film going it is rarely an issue. The noisy is way less than an unmodified inuke for example!
> 
> I also created a slightly less accurate HDR setting using the Natural mode and found that it a bit bright at the mid point of the HDR slider, i dropped the slider a notch and switched to Medium and was happier on Transformers The Last Knight.
> 
> Great thing about having high mode is that you get to make that choice, quieter for a little less accurate or brighter when you need it!
> You get 3 power modes, optional filter and lots of flexibility
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Alaric,

Many of us on this thread are trying to make a decision between the 5050 and the BenQ 5550. The auto tone mapping on the 5550 is a feature that is a key component to the decision. At the same time, the tone mapping process on the 5050 has been mentioned as not difficult. Is it possible you could describe the step by step process you use to first map and then re-map as you change disks and other sources. If it really is simple then the steps shouldn't be too lengthy or complex. If you are able to describe this can you make a point of how one makes the final adjustment and how do you do the final tweak. Is that final just a "what looks good to me" kind of adjustment?


----------



## chi_hawks_23

jeahrens said:


> Probably AV Logic on 100th I'm guessing. The Sony vs. the Epson is going to be a closer race in my opinion than it looks on paper. Yes the Sony's have a native 4K panel, but without some service menu tricks they can't resolve single pixel 4K patterns. Even with the tricks their optics and processing still don't get there, just closer. The Epson calibrated vs. the Sony calibrated, the Epson has a substantial lumen advantage. So while the Sony has a resolution advantage, I feel like the lumen advantage of the Epson would give it an edge when doing 4K HDR. The Sony has a contrast advantage over the Epson, but it's not nearly what a JVC has. So when you consider the price differential, the Sony in my opinion is much harder sell vs. the Epson.
> 
> I hesitate to recommend the RS540 on here not because I don't feel it's future proof or the e-shift is lacking, but mainly because JVC is only producing so many before they only produce the NX line. So hard to get someone committed to a model that they may or may not be able to buy.
> 
> FWIW I evaluated a few native 4K Sony models (285/360) before pulling the trigger on my RS520 and felt the JVC had a better overall picture.


Yup - it was AV Logic. Those guys are great - planning to buy and install through them. Sorry if I missed it but are you going to try to test/compare any NXs lines with your 520? Or hold off for a year or so until the JVC full-4K lines of products drop in price? I plan to do some HDR 4k gaming so the epson 5050 has some appeal there too. The only downside is I'm doing that on a 65'' 4k OLED right now so I'm fairly spoiled from a picture quality perspective. So blacks and brightness certainly will take a hit - trying to minimize that. Very happy to give some of that up for a 120 inch screen, though.


----------



## jeahrens

chi_hawks_23 said:


> Yup - it was AV Logic. Those guys are great - planning to buy and install through them. Sorry if I missed it but are you going to try to test/compare any NXs lines with your 520? Or hold off for a year or so until the full 4K lines drop in price? I plan to do some HDR 4k gaming so the epson 5050 has some appeal there too. the only downside is I'm doing that on a 65'' 4k OLED right now so I'm fairly spoiled from a picture quality perspective. Very happy to give some of that up for a 120 inch screen, though.


Well funny you mention that. If all goes as planned I will have an NX7 next week to replace my RS520. I won't have them running simultaneously though (a friend in Altoona snatched up the RS520). The dealer that I got my RS520 from made a deal on the NX7 I found hard to pass up. It will be the first projector I've bought that I didn't thoroughly evaluate in person first, so I'm a bit apprehensive. The RS520 throws an absolutely gorgeous picture so I'm hoping I'm not making a mistake. If you're interested in seeing either locally, feel free to PM me.

Also should add I don't see any big price drops for Sony or JVC for a while unless someone really disrupts the market. They'll go down some as they age, like the RSxxx lineup did.


----------



## trbizwiz1

I have a 5050Ube on the way. I’m upgrading from a 4000. I can’t wait. I have a 110” Carl’s grey screen, border less.


----------



## Sonrob26

Hey guys! I am also will be getting the 5050ub delivered tommorrow. My objective is to have a projector that has great spectral highlights and HDR. I had the 5040UB for about a month but returned it due to not having the HDMI for HDR gaming. In the time I had the 5040 I was very happy with its performance. Blu ray 4k movies looked spectacular on cinema bright and natural setting high lamp mode. lol My screen is 130 inch dalite high power 2.8 gain screen. I know it sounds like overkill but I have it in my livingroom wit beige walls and white ceilings. Regardless the 5040 put an awesome picture coming very close to how it looks on my regular Samsung ks8000 tv. If the 5050 matches what I saw with the 5040 then ill be a very happy camper any other improvements will be icing on the cake. Oh and my current pj is the 5020UB so it will be quite the upgrade. Good times!


----------



## Alaric

JackB said:


> Alaric,
> 
> 
> 
> Many of us on this thread are trying to make a decision between the 5050 and the BenQ 5550. The auto tone mapping on the 5550 is a feature that is a key component to the decision. At the same time, the tone mapping process on the 5050 has been mentioned as not difficult. Is it possible you could describe the step by step process you use to first map and then re-map as you change disks and other sources. If it really is simple then the steps shouldn't be too lengthy or complex. If you are able to describe this can you make a point of how one makes the final adjustment and how do you do the final tweak. Is that final just a "what looks good to me" kind of adjustment?


Irritatingly HDR and standards are still somewhat fuzzy from what I've found researching. 

Calibration of the projector was a case of smoothing the Grayscale which is reasonably easy using a meter and the TW9400 adds an 8 point Grayscale menu on top of normal gains/cuts.
Then i adjusted the colours for the DCI P3 wide gamut. I've still to play with Gamma but the -2 preset seems reasonable.

That lot is normal one off calibration, but with HDR in mind.

Beyond that, movies are mastered at different nits. HDR10 to my knowledge doesn't have active metadata, so the brightness levels should be fixed and set at most once per movie.... This requires the massive effort of pressing a button and moving a slider on a 16 point slider. 

I've watch half a dozen films with my HDR accurate calibration setting. I changed from my initial 1 setting to 2 ... I've since left it there for most of those films!

The HDR bright setting i created last week i fiddled with a bit more, varying between 7-9, but actually settled on dropping the power to Medium and using number 6.

The HDR slider is tone mapping, it basically uses a multiplier, to expand and contract the range between black and white, thus making a picture brighter/darker. You adjust by eye to get what you feel is the best image. 

I'm not sure that I would like an auto setting, but I've not seen the Benq projector. I'd prefer that movies had a fixed standard mastering... 

FYI I do have a Panasonic 420, very similar to 820. I believe I've HDR optimiser set to on, though I don't use the Panasonic slider, maybe, this is doing some form of auto for me and hence I've hardly used the Epson slider, or the films I've chosen on disc and Netflix are luckily at the same level. 

The Benq will be a touch sharper as 4x shifting is a touch better than 2x and it's single chip. 
The Epson however is very good and adds massive flexibility, brightness options, color accuracy options, great blacks and contrast. 









Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

Sonrob26 said:


> If the 5050 matches what I saw with the 5040 then ill be a very happy camper any other improvements will be icing on the cake. Oh and my current pj is the 5020UB so it will be quite the upgrade. Good times!


The 5050 is an upgraded 5040. It does everything the older model does and more. The pixel shifting is upgraded, panel tweaks, there are calibration tweaks and a 16 point HDR slider over 4 HDR modes and it also supports HLG. Add in a touch more brightness and i believe, contrast and the 18gb HDMI and you should be very happy! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

Alaric said:


> FYI I do have a Panasonic 420, very similar to 820. I believe I've HDR optimiser set to on, though I don't use the Panasonic slider, maybe, this is doing some form of auto for me and hence I've hardly used the Epson slider, or the films I've chosen on disc and Netflix are luckily at the same level.
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


If you have the optimizer on in the Panasonic it will auto tonemap everything to the luminance target you have set. Moving the slider is only really necessary if the metadata in the source is missing or incorrect. Most every Disney title, for instance, benefits from a tweak due to their complete lack of metadata.


----------



## Alaric

jeahrens said:


> If you have the optimizer on in the Panasonic it will auto tonemap everything to the luminance target you have set. Moving the slider is only really necessary if the metadata in the source is missing or incorrect. Most every Disney title, for instance, benefits from a tweak due to their complete lack of metadata.


Interesting... I only started to think about the player at the end of what I had written. Explains why I wondered what the issue was on moving a slider, which I'd rarely done anyway.
I'll try and do some testing over the weekend and see. 
The panasonic does however pair really well with this projector though! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## JackB

Alaric said:


> Irritatingly HDR and standards are still somewhat fuzzy from what I've found researching.
> 
> Calibration of the projector was a case of smoothing the Grayscale which is reasonably easy using a meter and the TW9400 adds an 8 point Grayscale menu on top of normal gains/cuts.
> Then i adjusted the colours for the DCI P3 wide gamut. I've still to play with Gamma but the -2 preset seems reasonable.
> 
> That lot is normal one off calibration, but with HDR in mind.
> 
> Beyond that, movies are mastered at different nits. HDR10 to my knowledge doesn't have active metadata, so the brightness levels should be fixed and set at most once per movie.... This requires the massive effort of pressing a button and moving a slider on a 16 point slider.
> 
> I've watch half a dozen films with my HDR accurate calibration setting. I changed from my initial 1 setting to 2 ... I've since left it there for most of those films!
> 
> The HDR bright setting i created last week i fiddled with a bit more, varying between 7-9, but actually settled on dropping the power to Medium and using number 6.
> 
> The HDR slider is tone mapping, it basically uses a multiplier, to expand and contract the range between black and white, thus making a picture brighter/darker. You adjust by eye to get what you feel is the best image.
> 
> I'm not sure that I would like an auto setting, but I've not seen the Benq projector. I'd prefer that movies had a fixed standard mastering...
> 
> FYI I do have a Panasonic 420, very similar to 820. I believe I've HDR optimiser set to on, though I don't use the Panasonic slider, maybe, this is doing some form of auto for me and hence I've hardly used the Epson slider, or the films I've chosen on disc and Netflix are luckily at the same level.
> 
> The Benq will be a touch sharper as 4x shifting is a touch better than 2x and it's single chip.
> The Epson however is very good and adds massive flexibility, brightness options, color accuracy options, great blacks and contrast.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Excellent description. So maybe the issue is overrated. It certainly sounds like it. It would be interesting to see what happens if you could turn the HDR Optimizer off on the Panasonic to see what happens.


----------



## nefrina

Alaric said:


> The 5050 is an upgraded 5040. It does everything the older model does and more. The pixel shifting is upgraded, panel tweaks, there are calibration tweaks and a 16 point HDR slider over 4 HDR modes and it also supports HLG. Add in a touch more brightness and i believe, contrast and the 18gb HDMI and you should be very happy!


the real question everyone is wondering is did epson truly fix the power supply issue the 5040 had? probably too early to tell.


----------



## ckronengold

mdcubsfan said:


> As I'm looking to get a new 5050, looking also to upgrade screen size. Don't understand many of the technical terms and what they mean(SMPTE, THX viewing distances), but looking at this first calculator you posted, it says I need a 174" screen to notice significant differences?!
> 
> Currently have a 90 and was hoping to upgrade to a 120 or 135...


Go ahead an upgrade to 120 or 135. You'll see a HUGE difference. 

SMPTE: Society of Motion Picture & Television Engineers
THX: George Lucas. 
Its just who is telling you what they think is the 'right' screen size for the distance. Good guidelines, but the real world, physical space, and budget are more important to you. 

In your case, at 16 feet away, you'd need a 174" diag 16:9 screen for you to have a 36 degree viewing angle. Thats what THX recommends as ideal. If you were wondering if 135 was "too big" then the answer would be "no." But you may not have the wall space for a 174" screen, so thats where the real world bumps against these recommendations.


----------



## Sonrob26

Thank you! Then it looks like the 5050 will check all my boxes. Can't wait for tommorrow!


----------



## Sonrob26

Sonrob26 said:


> Then it looks like the 5050 will check all my boxes. Can't wait for tommorrow! Thank you Alaric!


----------



## rustolemite

jeahrens said:


> Probably AV Logic on 100th I'm guessing. The Sony vs. the Epson is going to be a closer race in my opinion than it looks on paper. Yes the Sony's have a native 4K panel, but without some service menu tricks they can't resolve single pixel 4K patterns. Even with the tricks their optics and processing still don't get there, just closer. The Epson calibrated vs. the Sony calibrated, the Epson has a substantial lumen advantage. So while the Sony has a resolution advantage, I feel like the lumen advantage of the Epson would give it an edge when doing 4K HDR. The Sony has a contrast advantage over the Epson, but it's not nearly what a JVC has. So when you consider the price differential, the Sony in my opinion is much harder sell vs. the Epson.
> 
> I hesitate to recommend the RS540 on here not because I don't feel it's future proof or the e-shift is lacking, but mainly because JVC is only producing so many before they only produce the NX line. So hard to get someone committed to a model that they may or may not be able to buy.
> 
> FWIW I evaluated a few native 4K Sony models (285/360) before pulling the trigger on my RS520 and felt the JVC had a better overall picture.


Is the JVC still super slow when changing inputs? I have a bad habit of switching alot between my PC/Shield or PC/Xbox.


----------



## skylarlove1999

serith said:


> Alaric said:
> 
> 
> 
> The 5050 is an upgraded 5040. It does everything the older model does and more. The pixel shifting is upgraded, panel tweaks, there are calibration tweaks and a 16 point HDR slider over 4 HDR modes and it also supports HLG. Add in a touch more brightness and i believe, contrast and the 18gb HDMI and you should be very happy!
> 
> I just went down to FedEx for the second time in 18 months since purchasing the Epson 5040 to ship back another projector that stopped working due to the power supply issue. I sincerely hope for all the folks who buy the Epson 5050ub that the power supply issue has been fixed. The Epson 5040 put out a beautiful picture when it works.
> 
> the real question everyone is wondering is did epson truly fix the power supply issue the 5040 had? probably too early to tell.
Click to expand...


----------



## jeahrens

rustolemite said:


> Is the JVC still super slow when changing inputs? I have a bad habit of switching alot between my PC/Shield or PC/Xbox.


The new units (NX/RSxxxx) have improved. It's not instant, but supposed to be at least twice as fast.


----------



## ckronengold

Sonrob26 said:


> Thank you! Then it looks like the 5050 will check all my boxes. Can't wait for tommorrow!


Stop gloating! (mine doesn't come in until Tuesday):frown:


----------



## Dave in Green

serith said:


> the real question everyone is wondering is did epson truly fix the power supply issue the 5040 had? probably too early to tell.


Given the profits Epson has been losing from honoring warranty claims for failed power supplies it would be an incredibly poor business decision for the company's bottom line not to have corrected the issue as quickly as possible.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Dave in Green said:


> Given the profits Epson has been losing from honoring warranty claims for failed power supplies it would be an incredibly poor business decision for the company's bottom line not to have corrected the issue as quickly as possible.


I read somewhere that they found the root cause and corrected the power supply issue on subsequent production runs. I wouldn't expect the 5050 to be affected.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

Placed my order today at Magnolia /Best Buy I will pick up the unit on Tuesday. Upgrading from a HC 3700


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ezelkow1

same, ordered mine from projectorpeople tuesday, just waiting for it to ship at this point. Also need to figure out, and hoping, that it can go on the same back open bookshelf I have the 5020 on. Im hoping that I can put it up there just with its feet dangling off the ends considering how much bigger it is


----------



## JF911

I looked through recent posts and don't see a mention of where you guys bought the 5050 to get it so fast. Amazon says it will ship in May sometime. BestBuy/Magnolia doesn't have it listed on the website at all. Where do I get one for next week?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



JF911 said:


> I looked through recent posts and don't see a mention of where you guys bought the 5050 to get it so fast. Amazon says it will ship in May sometime. BestBuy/Magnolia doesn't have it listed on the website at all. Where do I get one for next week?




Walk into the store and see a rep and order one. That’s what I did. They have them at the warehouse , at least I was told. I had to put 25% down on mine and it will be delivered to the store Tuesday. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## blackgold9

Hooked up my 5050 and I'm still a bit torn. The HDR handling seems nice so far, but it noticeably louder and hotter than my JVC x770. 
I still think I like the tone mapping from my Panasonic 820 over the built in approach.


----------



## WynsWrld98

rustolemite said:


> Is the JVC still super slow when changing inputs? I have a bad habit of switching alot between my PC/Shield or PC/Xbox.


That's a good point. I've seen it and it's horrible and menu settings other than just switching inputs triggered it. So when I asked for an explanation I was told it's due to the 18 GB HDMI. So the Epson 5050 now has 18 GB HDMI, is it at all slow in switching inputs or settings?


----------



## jeahrens

WynsWrld98 said:


> That's a good point. I've seen it and it's horrible and menu settings other than just switching inputs triggered it. So when I asked for an explanation I was told it's due to the 18 GB HDMI. So the Epson 5050 now has 18 GB HDMI, is it at all slow in switching inputs or settings?


I don't think it's a byproduct of 18Gbs HDMI, more the chipset JVC uses. I guess I must be the patient type as it never bothers me much on my JVC. I insert the disc, walk back to the seating and by the time I'm ready to recline, it's ready for me to push play. But then I don't tend to swap sources much. Unless Epson is using the same hardware as JVC, I'm guessing it's probably faster.


----------



## WynsWrld98

jeahrens said:


> I don't think it's a byproduct of 18Gbs HDMI, more the chipset JVC uses. I guess I must be the patient type as it never bothers me much on my JVC. I insert the disc, walk back to the seating and by the time I'm ready to recline, it's ready for me to push play. But then I don't tend to swap sources much. Unless Epson is using the same hardware as JVC, I'm guessing it's probably faster.


When I was demoing a JVC and was tweaking settings it was happening when I wasn't switching inputs. I couldn't figure out a pattern of which settings changes triggered it. If it was only via changing selected input no biggie but while tweaking some settings it was so slow it looked like it froze up. I'm curious if 5050 owners are seeing any delays in changing inputs or settings.


----------



## groggrog

JF911 said:


> I looked through recent posts and don't see a mention of where you guys bought the 5050 to get it so fast. Amazon says it will ship in May sometime. BestBuy/Magnolia doesn't have it listed on the website at all. Where do I get one for next week?



Crutchfield, got it next day


----------



## groggrog

*5050 same bulb?*

Hi - just got a 5050 and am upgrading from a 4050. Any chance the 4050 spare bulb I have can work in the 5050? Assuming not but asking anyway.

Thanks


----------



## seplant

Can anyone comment on whether the 5050 handles motion any better than the 5040?


----------



## zdoggz

Motion handling is something I’m also really curious about. I almost went with the benq ht5550 but ended up ordering the 5050ube. If there are noticeable issues/judder then I’ll likely return it. Was this a noticeable issue with the 5040?


----------



## Sonrob26

Just received my Epson 5050. I ordered mine from crutchfueld and got it with 2 day shipping. Now working on mounting the beast. 😎


----------



## groggrog

Just mounted new 5050 to replace my 4050. Same HDMI cables, devices, etc. Running into trouble with 4K sources right off the bat. Receiver (Marantz SR6012) brings up the error that my display can’t handle HDCP 2.2. Made sure 4K enhancement on the receiver is off, no luck. Went through all the projector settings but still stuck. I know my cables are very high quality so it’s not that. Could it be a conflict with the 18gb HDMI port on the 5050 working with the receiver? Any ideas?

Thanks!


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Sonrob26 said:


> Just received my Epson 5050. I ordered mine from crutchfueld and got it with 2 day shipping. Now working on mounting the beast. 😎




Please post impressions and screen shots when you can. I would love to see more screen shots from current owners. I’m going through the AV forums thread now to read impressions. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

One thing I love so far about the 5050 that I noticed immediately and wasn’t present on the 4050 was the blue screen with white lines that comes up when I change lens settings. Made it super easy to line up the projector to my screen.


----------



## monkaquinas

groggrog said:


> Just mounted new 5050 to replace my 4050. Same HDMI cables, devices, etc. Running into trouble with 4K sources right off the bat. Receiver (Marantz SR6012) brings up the error that my display can’t handle HDCP 2.2. Made sure 4K enhancement on the receiver is off, no luck. Went through all the projector settings but still stuck. I know my cables are very high quality so it’s not that. Could it be a conflict with the 18gb HDMI port on the 5050 working with the receiver? Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks!


The 5040 required you to use a specific Input for 4k. Please check your 5050 for an Input label for 2.2, maybe?


----------



## groggrog

monkaquinas said:


> The 5040 required you to use a specific Input for 4k. Please check your 5050 for an Input label for 2.2, maybe?



Manual says "When connecting a source that requires HDCP 2.2, you must use HDMI1 port", which is what I'm using. Really everything seems to be picking it up except for DirecTV's 4k channels. Pretty sure they switched to HLG recently, and I've tried switching the projector to HLG and to auto. Wondering if anyone else will stumble on similar.


----------



## ezelkow1

groggrog said:


> Manual says "When connecting a source that requires HDCP 2.2, you must use HDMI1 port", which is what I'm using. Really everything seems to be picking it up except for DirecTV's 4k channels. Pretty sure they switched to HLG recently, and I've tried switching the projector to HLG and to auto. Wondering if anyone else will stumble on similar.


Maybe try switching the EDID format? I thought on the 5040 there was like a normal or extended mode and i thought i saw some people saying that switching that could help (which would make sense because dtv/dish/etc all use broadcom who's hdmi drivers suck)


----------



## groggrog

ezelkow1 said:


> Maybe try switching the EDID format? I thought on the 5040 there was like a normal or extended mode and i thought i saw some people saying that switching that could help (which would make sense because dtv/dish/etc all use broadcom who's hdmi drivers suck)



Unfortunately no luck with that either :-( Very strange because all my other sources are coming up with HDR no problem. Just Directv 4k failing. Maybe just a handshake issue. Not gonna mess with it anymore tonight, would rather enjoy the new 5050 on a Friday night!


Thanks for your help


----------



## lmendes

Does anyone knows where I can find the 5050UB in Canada ?


----------



## Robert Crewse

groggrog said:


> One thing I love so far about the 5050 that I noticed immediately and wasn’t present on the 4050 was the blue screen with white lines that comes up when I change lens settings. Made it super easy to line up the projector to my screen.


I finished my set up right before CEDIA last year and ended up buying the HC4010 as I couldn't hold out for the HC5050UB, and didn't trust the HC5040UB with the power issues. I'm very curious what your perception of the differences between the 4050 (pro version of the 4010) vs 5050 are.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MidnightWatcher said:


> Dave in Green said:
> 
> 
> 
> Given the profits Epson has been losing from honoring warranty claims for failed power supplies it would be an incredibly poor business decision for the company's bottom line not to have corrected the issue as quickly as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> I read somewhere that they found the root cause and corrected the power supply issue on subsequent production runs. I wouldn't expect the 5050 to be affected.
Click to expand...

I would love for you to provide a link to where you read that information. Thanks in advance.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

skylarlove1999 said:


> I would love for you to provide a link to where you read that information. Thanks in advance.


In a response to a question regarding the power supply failures of the 5040, Projector Central Editor-in-Chief, Rob Sabin, who is known to have spoken with Epson on a number of occasions, says that "this was indeed addressed in later production." See comments in the link below for his full response.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB-5050UBe.htm


----------



## skylarlove1999

MidnightWatcher said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would love for you to provide a link to where you read that information. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> In a response to a question regarding the power supply failures of the 5040, Projector Central Editor-in-Chief, Rob Sabin, who is known to have spoken with Epson on a number of occasions, says that "this was indeed addressed in later production." See comments in the link below for his full response.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB-5050UBe.htm
Click to expand...

Thank you for taking the time to reply and provide that information and the link. I was hoping to see some type of public disclosure directly from Epson of this power supply issue but I realized I'll be asking for too much from a company who is hoping to attract people to their new 5050ub. I emailed Rob Sabin directly who provided further information about the 5040 power supply issue and the fact that he strongly believes they resolved the issue completely before producing the 4050, 5050 and 6050. Thanks again.


----------



## xRaMx217

I just purchased a UHD65 last week but have the opportunity to return with no hassle. For those that have reviewed both units, is it worth the return and 700$ to swap. i have a elite 120 cinewhite screen and complete lighting control.


----------



## groggrog

Trying the version 1.01 firmware update for the 5050UB now and after all the status lights start flashing it’s supposed to turn off after the update is complete. They’ve been flashing about a half hour now and not stopping so all I can do is pull the plug and hope it’s not bricked. Also, from what I’ve read the lens cover isn’t supposed to open when it’s in update mode, but it’s open. Anybody else try it yet?


----------



## scottyroo

groggrog said:


> Trying the version 1.01 firmware update for the 5050UB now and after all the status lights start flashing it’s supposed to turn off after the update is complete. They’ve been flashing about a half hour now and not stopping so all I can do is pull the plug and hope it’s not bricked. Also, from what I’ve read the lens cover isn’t supposed to open when it’s in update mode, but it’s open. Anybody else try it yet?




Is there a change log re: what 1.0.1 does?


----------



## groggrog

scottyroo said:


> Is there a change log re: what 1.0.1 does?


Not that I've seen...


----------



## JewDaddy

scottyroo said:


> Is there a change log re: what 1.0.1 does?




Maybe adds FI with a true 4K source?!?!?!? One can only hope. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MidnightWatcher

JewDaddy said:


> Maybe adds FI with a true 4K source?!?!?!? One can only hope. Lol


I read somewhere that FI could be done with a firmware update on 1080p upscaled to 4K, but not on a true 4K source.

What I'd really like to see first in a firmware update, however, is the ability to automatically switch to an HDR mode when an HDR source is detected.


----------



## pneff

Question about bandwidth and color depth. 

Just upgraded from an old 1080p Panasonic to the 5050UB. Unfortunately my (in-wall) cable is limited to 10gbps, but I only plan to watch movies/TV so no biggie.

However, my player (Egreat A5) will only output an 8-bit 4K signal to the 5050, so Color Depth is 8-bit 4:4:4. And the player is not letting me choose 10-bit output @4K resolution. Color Format is BT.2020 and it does look like the 5050 is receiving HDR10 metadata.

If I switch the player to 1080p output, the Color Depth on the 5050 goes up to 12-bit 4:4:4, and HDR is still transmitted. 

I am wondering, which is the better solution? Native 4K output limited to 8-bit or 2K output at 12-bit, 4K enhancement by the 5050?


----------



## JewDaddy

MidnightWatcher said:


> I read somewhere that FI could be done with a firmware update on 1080p upscaled to 4K, but not on a true 4K source.
> 
> 
> 
> What I'd really like to see first in a firmware update, however, is the ability to automatically switch to an HDR mode when an HDR source is detected.




And that’s crazy to me because you were able to do that right off the bat with the 5040. Wonder why it would have to be upgraded in order to do it on a almost 3 year newer model.....

I’m also surprised that it doesn’t automatically detect an HDR signal and switch over. Another thing the 5040 did with no problem either. Very odd


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Sonrob26

Finally I was able to mount the projector and get it going, It does seem the HDMI input is less forgiving than the 5040 since I could not make it work with my exsisting ceiling installed cable even though its rated for 2.1 spec. I am thinking of trying out this booster https://www.pixelgendesign.com/products/pxldrive cause I dont want to re run cable. That would be far more expensive. 
Now onto first impressions which are very good. It is definately a step up from the 5040. The 5050 is more refined in its functions, a tad sharper and in my opinion brighter. I say this because I have no instruments to measure, however , I can use this projector in normal lamp and cinema bright and it gives me the spectral highlights that I like on 4k HDR blu rays. Animation pops and scenes with sun light or flash lights will make your eyes squint. On normal blu rays however, these setting are way too bright. I settled yesterday witht the family to watch Welcome to Marwin for which I use Cinema at normal lamp. These gave the picture very nice colors and good pop. Since the movie is only available in bluray on SD this setting gave it a very nice picture where you could appreciate very good contrast and black levels. 
These are very early impressions but I can say I am very satisfied with my purchase. I wont say I was floored by the picture since overall the improvement to the 5040 are a little above marginal especially in 4k viewing. However, I do agree with what has been said you do get the best of both worlds depending on you preference. If you want a bright picture you can have it and if you want a more balance cinematic picture with accurate colors without a huge loss in brightness it is there as well.


----------



## Hawkmarket

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Placed my order today at Magnolia /Best Buy I will pick up the unit on Tuesday. Upgrading from a HC 3700
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'd appreciate your opinion on the upgrade if you don't mind. I'm making this very exchange later this summer.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

What do you have now? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

JewDaddy said:


> And that’s crazy to me because you were able to do that right off the bat with the 5040. Wonder why it would have to be upgraded in order to do it on a almost 3 year newer model.....
> 
> I’m also surprised that it doesn’t automatically detect an HDR signal and switch over. Another thing the 5040 did with no problem either. Very odd
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


1080p upscaled to 4K sent to a 5040 is still seen as a 4K signal and the 5040 won't let you use FI. I'm not sure how they can do a firmware update for the 5050 whereby the 5050 receiving a 4K signal can distinguish it was upscaled to 4K or truly 4K.


----------



## airdino23

*Pulled the trigger*



Upgrading from Epson 5030. Just grabbed a 5050UB from Crutchfield.
Also ordered a ALR screen hoping that will allow me to have a little light on during gaming and sports.

I do have a question.
I have Monoprice certified 18GB HDMI cables.
Any reason to consider the BlueJeans Ethernet HDMIs? Anyone experiment with an Xbox One X for 4K gaming?

Also, I ordered an 120" Elite Starling Tab 5D ALR screen (previous was a 120" 1:1 from Monoprice). Anyone know why the Elite Saker tab is so much more expensive? I can see the different tabs and remotes, but couldn't tell if screen performance was different....

Would love any thoughts!


----------



## skylarlove1999

mdcubsfan said:


> So I saw on the original rumor thread that someone had recommended the Chief Mount RPA357
> 
> Thanks, just trying to get everything lined up to get this projector installed....


I have attached a picture of my mount for my 5040. It is a tank. It is from Projector Ceiling Mounts Direct LLC. They have storefronts on Amazon, Walmart, Ebay and some others. The pictures online dont match up to what you will get but trust that they are custom made for each brand and model projector. By far the best and sturdiest mount I have ever owned. Easiest by far to mount and align perfectly with my projector.


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> mdcubsfan said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I saw on the original rumor thread that someone had recommended the Chief Mount RPA357
> 
> Thanks, just trying to get everything lined up to get this projector installed....
> 
> 
> 
> I have attached a picture of my mount for my 5040. It is a tank. It is from Projector Ceiling Mounts Direct LLC. They have storefronts on Amazon, Walmart, Ebay and some others. The pictures online dont match up to what you will get but trust that they are custom made for each brand and model projector. By far the best and sturdiest mount I have ever owned. Easiest by far to mount and align perfectly with my projector.
Click to expand...

Projector Ceiling Mounts Direct LLC


----------



## skylarlove1999

pneff said:


> Question about bandwidth and color depth.
> 
> Just upgraded from an old 1080p Panasonic to the 5050UB. Unfortunately my (in-wall) cable is limited to 10gbps, but I only plan to watch movies/TV so no biggie.
> 
> However, my player (Egreat A5) will only output an 8-bit 4K signal to the 5050, so Color Depth is 8-bit 4:4:4. And the player is not letting me choose 10-bit output @4K resolution. Color Format is BT.2020 and it does look like the 5050 is receiving HDR10 metadata.
> 
> If I switch the player to 1080p output, the Color Depth on the 5050 goes up to 12-bit 4:4:4, and HDR is still transmitted.
> 
> I am wondering, which is the better solution? Native 4K output limited to 8-bit or 2K output at 12-bit, 4K enhancement by the 5050?


This might provide solution for your issue. A tad on the expensive side but the gentleman who started the business are long time Tech geniuses. 

https://www.pixelgendesign.com/products/pxldrive


----------



## Sonrob26

groggrog said:


> Trying the version 1.01 firmware update for the 5050UB now and after all the status lights start flashing it’s supposed to turn off after the update is complete. They’ve been flashing about a half hour now and not stopping so all I can do is pull the plug and hope it’s not bricked. Also, from what I’ve read the lens cover isn’t supposed to open when it’s in update mode, but it’s open. Anybody else try it yet?


Your a brave soldier for updating the software this early. LOL I want to but I still dont know this projector very well to even know what would improve. I am going to give it a week or so while I aclamate to it. 

I read about the 4k and hdr switching not happenning automatically. Is that because the source is being upscaled before going to the projector? My 4k player is a samsung and its not doing anything but sending the signal natively and from what I can see on the menus for signal it does display sd or HDR accordingly. What am I missing?


----------



## groggrog

Well I’ve had a hell of a day dealing with the 5050UB in my system. At this point I’m dead in the water with no sources able to HDMI handshake with the device through the Marantz AVR. Using a fiber to optical adapter to transfer the signal between AVR and projector via HDMI, and handshake never completes. Every device is fine if I go direct from it to projector using the fiber to optical adapter, it’s just no good when through the AVR. Tried firmware update on 5050UB but couldn’t get it to take. Seems like it starts trying to install it but then never ends. There’s no display for it so hard to tell if it’s doing anything at all, but I left it going over an hour and it never completed so I’m thinking a firmware update is out of the question, and doubt it’d have anything to do with fixing my problem. Have already replaced the fiber to optical adapter with a fresh one from my vendor but still same problem. Wondering if there’s some weird incompatibility issue between the Marantz and 5050UB.


----------



## genesis_avs

groggrog said:


> Well I’ve had a hell of a day dealing with the 5050UB in my system. At this point I’m dead in the water with no sources able to HDMI handshake with the device through the Marantz AVR...



You should probably check in the applicable Marantz AVR thread, but which model do you have? You may have to turn off certain video-related settings in the Marantz.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

groggrog said:


> Well I’ve had a hell of a day dealing with the 5050UB in my system. At this point I’m dead in the water with no sources able to HDMI handshake with the device through the Marantz AVR. Using a fiber to optical adapter to transfer the signal between AVR and projector via HDMI, and handshake never completes. Every device is fine if I go direct from it to projector using the fiber to optical adapter, it’s just no good when through the AVR. Tried firmware update on 5050UB but couldn’t get it to take. Seems like it starts trying to install it but then never ends. There’s no display for it so hard to tell if it’s doing anything at all, but I left it going over an hour and it never completed so I’m thinking a firmware update is out of the question, and doubt it’d have anything to do with fixing my problem. Have already replaced the fiber to optical adapter with a fresh one from my vendor but still same problem. Wondering if there’s some weird incompatibility issue between the Marantz and 5050UB.




Go over to AV Forums and post in that thread. They have had this unit since January. It’s already 100 pages deep and they have much more experience with the unit. Epson 9400 is the model 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

genesis_avs said:


> You should probably check in the applicable Marantz AVR thread, but which model do you have? You may have to turn off certain video-related settings in the Marantz.


SR6012, tried every variation of settings, no luck. Interestingly just the Windows PC does work. None of the other sources, even though they’re all plugged into the same AVR with HDMI.


----------



## groggrog

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Go over to AV Forums and post in that thread. They have had this unit since January. It’s already 100 pages deep and they have much more experience with the unit. Epson 9400 is the model
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks, will look


----------



## Liquid$team

groggrog said:


> Well I’ve had a hell of a day dealing with the 5050UB in my system. At this point I’m dead in the water with no sources able to HDMI handshake with the device through the Marantz AVR. Using a fiber to optical adapter to transfer the signal between AVR and projector via HDMI, and handshake never completes. Every device is fine if I go direct from it to projector using the fiber to optical adapter, it’s just no good when through the AVR. Tried firmware update on 5050UB but couldn’t get it to take. Seems like it starts trying to install it but then never ends. There’s no display for it so hard to tell if it’s doing anything at all, but I left it going over an hour and it never completed so I’m thinking a firmware update is out of the question, and doubt it’d have anything to do with fixing my problem. Have already replaced the fiber to optical adapter with a fresh one from my vendor but still same problem. Wondering if there’s some weird incompatibility issue between the Marantz and 5050UB.


What model Marantz?

Also I'm not sure I understand exactly how you are connecting the AVR to the 5050. Can you be specific to exactly what you are using? Maybe link the products so we can troubleshoot specs for you. I am leaning towards it being your cable set up. My Marantz has HDCP 2.2 protection and if you have the same HDCP 2.2 and you are using the wrong cables you won't get a handshake. You probably already know all this but it's hard to troubleshoot from a key board ya know.


----------



## JewDaddy

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

Can anyone comment yet on trying a game in 4K HDR? I have the 5040 with a Linker and I’m curious how different or better the 5050 looks without the need for a Linker. One of the things that bothered me with the 5040 and the Linker is the color banding I noticed. Plus, most games just didn’t quite have that pop you would expect an HDR game to have. Would love some thoughts/feedback on the 5050 and HDR games. 

Also, I would love to hear if anyone had a chance to try 3D yet and how it compares to the 5040. Brighter, less crosstalk??

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

groggrog said:


> Well I’ve had a hell of a day dealing with the 5050UB in my system. At this point I’m dead in the water with no sources able to HDMI handshake with the device through the Marantz AVR. Using a fiber to optical adapter to transfer the signal between AVR and projector via HDMI, and handshake never completes. Every device is fine if I go direct from it to projector using the fiber to optical adapter, it’s just no good when through the AVR. Tried firmware update on 5050UB but couldn’t get it to take. Seems like it starts trying to install it but then never ends. There’s no display for it so hard to tell if it’s doing anything at all, but I left it going over an hour and it never completed so I’m thinking a firmware update is out of the question, and doubt it’d have anything to do with fixing my problem. Have already replaced the fiber to optical adapter with a fresh one from my vendor but still same problem. Wondering if there’s some weird incompatibility issue between the Marantz and 5050UB.


I've got a SR6011 and have had very few issues with my 9400.

The firmware update is like most epsons and you need a blank USB drive, Fat/fat32 format, in the root of the drive and no hidden security folder. Takes a few minutes.
The update adds FI with 4k on 1080p sources, so whilst useful I'm not sure it will help your issue.

It's cable and/or Marantz settings. You should be able to see the Marantz screen on the projector without any sources!

I have heard of issues with dual display, so if you are using a TV, try unplugging that.

Info / projector info will tell you what the projector is receiving in terms of the signal with color depth etc

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

Alaric said:


> I've got a SR6011 and have had very few issues with my 9400.
> 
> The firmware update is like most epsons and you need a blank USB drive, Fat/fat32 format, in the root of the drive and no hidden security folder. Takes a few minutes.
> The update adds FI with 4k on 1080p sources, so whilst useful I'm not sure it will help your issue.
> 
> It's cable and/or Marantz settings. You should be able to see the Marantz screen on the projector without any sources!
> 
> I have heard of issues with dual display, so if you are using a TV, try unplugging that.
> 
> Info / projector info will tell you what the projector is receiving in terms of the signal with color depth etc
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Not sure why but with a blank 8gb USB drive, FAT32, in root, and no hidden security folder, I hold down the power button, plug the power cord in, watch the three lights come on, let go, they flash repeatedly and never stop.  Tried with two different USB devices. What am I missing?

I actually do see the Marantz screen without any sources. All great until I plug in a source, then nothing. No dual display, just plugged directly into the ARC port. I suspect a handshake issue with the optical extender device my vendor installed for me so am going to try and exchange it with them today and see what happens. When I plug any of the devices into the extender directly they’re all fine, so something between Marantz-Extender-Projector going on.

Thanks for all the advice...


----------



## Alaric

groggrog said:


> Not sure why but with a blank 8gb USB drive, FAT32, in root, and no hidden security folder, I hold down the power button, plug the power cord in, watch the three lights come on, let go, they flash repeatedly and never stop. Tried with two different USB devices. What am I missing?
> 
> 
> 
> I actually do see the Marantz screen without any sources. All great until I plug in a source, then nothing. No dual display, just plugged directly into the ARC port. I suspect a handshake issue with the optical extender device my vendor installed for me so am going to try and exchange it with them today and see what happens. When I plug any of the devices into the extender directly they’re all fine, so something between Marantz-Extender-Projector going on.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the advice...


Silly Q.... You've unzipped the file?

It does sound like a handshake issue. Damn copy protection crud! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

Alaric said:


> Silly Q.... You've unzipped the file?
> 
> It does sound like a handshake issue. Damn copy protection crud!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Yes unzipped it


----------



## Alaric

groggrog said:


> Yes unzipped it


Guessed as much but it's often obvious things that get missed.
This the 9400 or the 5050.... I know that the EU update works for the 9400, but I'm guessing wouldn't for the 5050.
The way you describe the process the PJ is looking for the update on the drive but doesn't find it!
From what i gather of the process it matches the name of the file to the projectors firmware installed!

Btw in info / Version - what does yours say?
Main : 8Z00956FLWWV101
is mine, the last three digits are the interesting bit as the update is 101 and I'm wondering if you have updated or it was shipped with the latest! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

Alaric said:


> Guessed as much but it's often obvious things that get missed.
> This the 9400 or the 5050.... I know that the EU update works for the 9400, but I'm guessing wouldn't for the 5050.
> The way you describe the process the PJ is looking for the update on the drive but doesn't find it!
> From what i gather of the process it matches the name of the file to the projectors firmware installed!
> 
> Btw in info / Version - what does yours say?
> Main : 8Z00956FLWWV101
> is mine, the last three digits are the interesting bit as the update is 101 and I'm wondering if you have updated or it was shipped with the latest!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Not by the projector now but I know it ends with 100.

The update I'm trying to install is from here listed as "PowerLite Home Cinema 5050 UB/5050Ube"


----------



## VideoDrone

*Upgrade from 8500ub*

Just pulled the trigger also, this is an upgrade from a 8500ub I have loved for many years. I was one of the first 8500ub owners back in the day, so I am looking forward to being impressed again. Best thing the PJ is scheduled to arrive on my Birthday....happy BD to me!


----------



## Alaric

groggrog said:


> Not by the projector now but I know it ends with 100.
> 
> 
> 
> The update I'm trying to install is from here listed as "PowerLite Home Cinema 5050 UB/5050Ube"


All seems fine then. Assuming others have updated the 5050 and the file works i can't think of much else.

Corrupt file download or unzip fault, may be worth a second go but we're into unlikely realms. 

Just the .bin file on the root of a blank fat32 drive should do it. 

Certainly be interested in how it gets sorted for my FAQ! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

Alaric said:


> All seems fine then. Assuming others have updated the 5050 and the file works i can't think of much else.
> 
> Corrupt file download or unzip fault, may be worth a second go but we're into unlikely realms.
> 
> Just the .bin file on the root of a blank fat32 drive should do it.
> 
> Certainly be interested in how it gets sorted for my FAQ!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Yes, thanks again Alaric, will let you know when I have it sorted out.


----------



## groggrog

groggrog said:


> Yes, thanks again Alaric, will let you know when I have it sorted out.


Man, this should not be this hard. I even created a 100mb partition on the USB key, no other partitions on it. The firmware file is EPSONPJ_t5ul.101.bin and it is in root. By default format creates a hidden “System Volume Information” folder and I tried with and without that. Still the same. Just endlessly flashes the three lights. Has anybody else been successful with upgrading the firmware on the US 5050UB to 1.01?

Thanks


----------



## BIC2

scottyroo said:


> Movies trade blows but right now I’d give edge to BenQ because just how dead simple it is to get the picture I like with auto HDR.


I was about ready to pull the trigger on the 5050 but this is one thing that gives me pause. I'll use it mostly for movies; I just want to throw the disk in and go, not have to screw around with settings for each movie.

I seem to remember the new disk players coming out from Sony and/or Panasonic have auto tone mapping (I don't even know what tone mapping is), but I could be wrong on that. Thanks.


----------



## JonfromCB

groggrog said:


> Man, this should not be this hard. I even created a 100mb partition on the USB key, no other partitions on it. The firmware file is EPSONPJ_t5ul.101.bin and it is in root. By default format creates a hidden “System Volume Information” folder and I tried with and without that. Still the same. Just endlessly flashes the three lights. Has anybody else been successful with upgrading the firmware on the US 5050UB to 1.01?
> 
> Thanks


I certainly hope you solve this soon. For the sake of others it would be helpful to hear what Epson has to say about why you are having the update problem, and it would be helpful to many of us to hear what Marantz/Denon has to say about the signal/cable issue. Thanks and good luck.


----------



## Cattledog

BIC2 said:


> I was about ready to pull the trigger on the 5050 but this is one thing that gives me pause. I'll use it mostly for movies; I just want to throw the disk in and go, not have to screw around with settings for each movie.
> 
> I seem to remember the new disk players coming out from Sony and/or Panasonic have auto tone mapping (I don't even know what tone mapping is), but I could be wrong on that. Thanks.


I have a 5040UBe combined with a Panasonic DP-UB820 and once I had it set up the way I liked I have never had to change my settings. I assume the 5050 would be the same.


----------



## groggrog

JonfromCB said:


> I certainly hope you solve this soon. For the sake of others it would be helpful to hear what Epson has to say about why you are having the update problem, and it would be helpful to many of us to hear what Marantz/Denon has to say about the signal/cable issue. Thanks and good luck.


Still stuck on the firmware update issue. I suspect it’s that Windows keeps rewriting the System Volume Information folder to the USB key before I remove it from the PC so it’s confusing the Epson. Tomorrow I’m going to try and write the file to the same key using MAC instead of Windows and see if it changes anything.

As for the signal issue I think I just solved it. Fingers crossed it doesn’t happen again but I think I figured out what to do if it does happen again. What I did was eliminate the Marantz from the picture by removing the HDMI cable for each source device. Then I plugged my Optical extender directly into each device one-by-one, making sure the HDCP 2.2 light on the extender lit up. Then I inserted the HDMI cable for that device back into the Marantz and then the extender into the Marantz. One by one every device lit up, so now they’re finally all working. Looks like it was an HDMI handshake issue. Since I am replacing a 4050 with a 5050 maybe the HDMI signals got screwed up and I just had to reset them by doing that process. Whatever it takes. All good now so going to enjoy. Will let you know if it comes up again. Thanks for your interest!


----------



## gene4ht

BIC2 said:


> I was about ready to pull the trigger on the 5050 but this is one thing that gives me pause. I'll use it mostly for movies; I just want to throw the disk in and go, not have to screw around with settings for each movie.
> 
> I seem to remember the new disk players coming out from Sony and/or Panasonic have auto tone mapping (I don't even know what tone mapping is), but I could be wrong on that. Thanks.


Some enthusiasts represented here strive to maximize performance...either by personally experimenting and tweaking or by professional calibration...it's the nature of the hobby for some. On the other side of the spectrum, I would venture to say there are also enthusiasts here who take the PJ out of the box and never or minimally touch adjustments...and are perfectly happy. And likely, others are somewhere in between. 

The question is do you adjust brightness, contrast, and color for each movie or program when watching your TV/flat panel? Or do you set it and forget it? Bottom line, this hobby affords something for everybody and to each their own...there is much to like about projectors...the 5050 is no different. 

Relative to tone mapping...simple explanation....some HDR content tends to be too dark...some players have a "slider" that adjusts overall image brightness.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Cattledog said:


> BIC2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was about ready to pull the trigger on the 5050 but this is one thing that gives me pause. I'll use it mostly for movies; I just want to throw the disk in and go, not have to screw around with settings for each movie.
> 
> I seem to remember the new disk players coming out from Sony and/or Panasonic have auto tone mapping (I don't even know what tone mapping is), but I could be wrong on that. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 5040UBe combined with a Panasonic DP-UB820 and once I had it set up the way I liked I have never had to change my settings. I assume the 5050 would be the same. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

I have the same combination except for I don't have the wireless and it delivers an amazing picture quality especially in HDR which I never thought I would say about a projector honestly. I had originally set up with an Oppo 203 quite frankly the Panasonic beat the Oppo 203 in every respect picture quality up conversion of 1080p to 4K and audio


----------



## BIC2

I'm probably going to do a 125"-130" diagonal 16:9 screen. Dedicated, completely dark theater. Throw distance can be 15-18 ft or so. First row (MLP) about 12 ft, second row about 16 ft. Would 0.9 gain spandex be a good choice to go with the 5050? If not, any recommendations for a suitable AT screen? Thanks.


----------



## BIC2

Is the 6050 available? Any MSRP? Thanks.


----------



## groggrog

groggrog said:


> Still stuck on the firmware update issue. I suspect it’s that Windows keeps rewriting the System Volume Information folder to the USB key before I remove it from the PC so it’s confusing the Epson. Tomorrow I’m going to try and write the file to the same key using MAC instead of Windows and see if it changes anything.
> 
> As for the signal issue I think I just solved it. Fingers crossed it doesn’t happen again but I think I figured out what to do if it does happen again. What I did was eliminate the Marantz from the picture by removing the HDMI cable for each source device. Then I plugged my Optical extender directly into each device one-by-one, making sure the HDCP 2.2 light on the extender lit up. Then I inserted the HDMI cable for that device back into the Marantz and then the extender into the Marantz. One by one every device lit up, so now they’re finally all working. Looks like it was an HDMI handshake issue. Since I am replacing a 4050 with a 5050 maybe the HDMI signals got screwed up and I just had to reset them by doing that process. Whatever it takes. All good now so going to enjoy. Will let you know if it comes up again. Thanks for your interest!



Unfortunately that fix was short lived. Next time I powered everything up every source was again unable to connect. At this point I have switched to using a 24 foot HDMI cable temporarily (works fine) while I work with the vendor of the optical extender to figure out what's happening.


----------



## Madkao

HI,
I am in need of some advice please.

I just got my UHZ65 over the weekend and have been testing it in my non-dedicated theater room with a 125in SI Slate screen. The projector is about 13feet away from the screen. So far I am impressed with the picture quality. I currently own a Sony HW65ES projector. The difference in contrast and picture quality is significant.

However, I do notice a significant lag with the UHZ65 when I game. This was expected as I knew the lag on the UHZ65 is 80ms compare to my old Sony HW65ES at around 30ms.

I am thinking about maybe getting the new Epson 5050UB to test it out and see how it compares to the UHZ65. I understand the technology is quite different (laser vs lamp, DLP vs LCD?), but as long as the picture quality is just as good on the Epson, then I might switch to the Epson due to potentially lower lag. (I can't find the lag time for the 5050UB but I think i read somewhere the lag for the 5040UB was in the low 30s so I am assuming the new 5050UB shouldn't be too far off).

Can someone help me decide whether of not they think the 5050UB would be a good alternative to consider. Thanks!


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

I know that without doing the modification to your projector outlines by TVS Pros I believe the Epson hits more of the HDR color space and potentially has better contrast. If the filter is installed from what I have read it’s fantastic but almost double the price of the Epson. The lag if I remember is around 28. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Madkao

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I know that without doing the modification to your projector outlines by TVS Pros I believe the Epson hits more of the HDR color space and potentially has better contrast. If the filter is installed from what I have read it’s fantastic but almost double the price of the Epson. The lag if I remember is around 28.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the info!


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Madkao said:


> Thanks for the info!




Having said that if you could afford to send to to TVS it’s like $1600 to modify it. It does not change the warranty and from the videos on YouTube makes that projector a very high end price of kit not only helping out the color coverage but also improves contrast. Of course this does not help your gaming situation 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Madkao

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Having said that if you could afford to send to to TVS it’s like $1600 to modify it. It does not change the warranty and from the videos on YouTube makes that projector a very high end price of kit not only helping out the color coverage but also improves contrast. Of course this does not help your gaming situation
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks again. How does your Xbox one X do as a 4k bluray source for your Epson? Recommended or should I just get a dedicated bluray player? thanks.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Madkao said:


> Thanks again. How does your Xbox one X do as a 4k bluray source for your Epson? Recommended or should I just get a dedicated bluray player? thanks.


I still don't have the new Epson. I get that tomorrow night but I have taken the Xbox out of the equation long ago. yes, it plays a 4k disc that is that. It does not do it well, and I often had audio drop outs for a hot second when playing discs only. I purchased it to do a little gaming which I didn't end up doing often enough and to get Atmos support through the Netflix app. I will be picking up a Panasonic UB 820 when I get my Epson tomorrow. I feel when spending this kind of money, I should make sure I pair it to fantastic player which the Panny is. I will not bother wondering if there is any more performance left on the table. It also provides the option to do tone mapping with its HDR optimizer function which has been highly reviewed. As a bonus it provides Neflix and Amazon apps which support Atmos and 4K HDR.

So I will gladly spend the extra $500 to get PQ that rivals or surpasses an Oppo and adds streaming apps to boot.


----------



## Stephen Opipari

I ended up ordering a new 5050UB last Friday to replace my Vivitek HK2288, which is only a year-ish old. Don't like sending in the Vivitek for firmware updates (in fact it's out for one now) and I see rainbows with it too. I was looking at the 5040 when I bought the HK2288 and opted against it because there wasn't an 18GB connection for my XB1X. 

Since the 5050 fixed my complaint about the 5040 and my Vivitek has been off site for over 10 days now, I pulled the trigger. My 5050UB shows on Wed, very much looking forward to it.


----------



## Luminated67

The Crimes of Grindelwald (1080p) 4K Enhancement ON + image enhancement Preset 3


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## germanplumber

I've got mine on order from Best Buy. Should be here by the 23rd for pickup.


----------



## mactoast

I have not been on an Epson thread in years even though I own and still use a 6010. But, its time to upgrade and was about to buy a JVC 790 which really does seem like a great deal at its lower price. But now with the new Epson out its got me wondering. The JVC has always been highly regarded but there are complaints about varied amounts of E-shift buzzing noise which concerns me. Have any of the Epson shifters ever suffered from anything similar? Price points are close enough for me to consider either one but hate to get a noisey JVC and potentially have issues getting a replacement this close to the reported end of its production. These new Epson sound very good for the money also.


----------



## scottyroo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

So I’ve been doing some more prep work for my shoot out with the BenQ HT5550 and thought this would be an interesting share since 1) I am on record for not recommending the HT5550 for sports (foot now in mouth) and 2) I still can’t get past that I can see pixels from 16 feet away on my 160” screen. Call me crazy. 

A member here known as Kraine reviews for a site called passionhomecinema.fr and he posted his review of the HT5550 today. I used his settings in the User mode and a new veil was lifted for use of the HT5550. Nearly 1500 lumens of color accurate image, within a margin of error of the 1800 or so good lumens from the 5050UB. Picture of the theater and the HT5550 playing with my back half completely illuminated. 










And some shots of the projectors in action. The Epson is in Alaric’s recommended settings and the HT5550 in Kraine’s (love our community). 4K enhancement is on - image preset 2.


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## MidnightWatcher

Good pics. If you need to zoom in that much to see pixels, I think the majority will be very happy with the 5050, especially with better blacks/contrast.

Question - are the pixels visible with the naked eye up close with 4K enhancement on, or is that just the camera capturing what it sees in a split second that isn't visible to the naked eye?


----------



## scottyroo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



MidnightWatcher said:


> Good pics. If you need to zoom in that much to see pixels, I think the majority will be very happy with the 5050, especially with better blacks/contrast.




True for most. However those who a) are coming from a True 4K projector and b) have good eyes, will notice. Coming from 1080p or the 5040? You’ll be happy. If you think you meet both criteria, chances are you need to see an eye doctor because I can most definitely tell a difference. 

And while you make a good point, what is the point of 4K then? Especially as screen sizes are trending towards bigger and viewing distance preferences trend towards closer to screen? 

My question is rhetorical... I don’t want to debate that here. Haha I will just continue to beat my drum. Don’t mind me.


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## MidnightWatcher

There's also the matter of cost for the price conscious -- whether it's by choice, resources or by force (WAF) \o/. Not sure who would be coming from a true 4K projector to a pixel shifter, unless it's for the increased brightness for HDR. Bottom line is that people will decide based on what's important to them and what isn't. There's no wrong choices.


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## FendersRule

Assuming that’s a 4K source?

Since most sources are 1080p, does the 4K enhancement make the image softer like the prior models?


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## scottyroo

MidnightWatcher said:


> There's also the matter of cost for the price conscious -- whether it's by choice, resources or by force (WAF) \o/. Not sure who would be coming from a true 4K projector to a pixel shifter, unless it's for the increased brightness for HDR. Bottom line is that people will decide based on what's important to them and what isn't. There's no wrong choices.




Per CTA HT5550 is ‘True 4K’, Sony 295ES is ‘Native 4K’. 

Pictures above are of a True 4K 1080x4 shifter vs a 1080x2 shifter. 4.1M pixels vs 8.3M pixels. Some will prefer the blacks and input lag of 5050. Some will prefer the higher resolution and motion handling of HT5550. Hopefully all this info is to help people make a decision they’ll be happy with.


----------



## scottyroo

FendersRule said:


> Assuming that’s a 4K source?
> 
> 
> 
> Since most sources are 1080p, does the 4K enhancement make the image softer like the prior models?




This is of a 4K source, yes. Many reviewers of the 5050 say that the 4Ke has improved vs last gen and to just leave it on the whole time. I agree.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

scottyroo said:


> Per CTA HT5550 is ‘True 4K’, Sony 295ES is ‘Native'.


Ah I see, I presumed "true" and "native" were synonymous.


----------



## FendersRule

Cool. I’d love for you to do some 4ke on and off for common blu rays with those same grade photos!


----------



## tschu

germanplumber said:


> I've got mine on order from Best Buy. Should be here by the 23rd for pickup.




It’s not on Best Buy’s website yet. How did you order it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

scottyroo said:


> True for most. However those who a) are coming from a True 4K projector and b) have good eyes, will notice. Coming from 1080p or the 5040? You’ll be happy. If you think you meet both criteria, chances are you need to see an eye doctor because I can most definitely tell a difference.
> 
> And while you make a good point, what is the point of 4K then? Especially as screen sizes are trending towards bigger and viewing distance preferences trend towards closer to screen?
> 
> My question is rhetorical... I don’t want to debate that here. Haha I will just continue to beat my drum. Don’t mind me.


I still question this opinion that you will see the pixels because I don’t at my 10.5ft from a 100” screen which is roughly the same distance to screen ratio you are using so I asked my sons to question do you see pixels and they said no, in fact they had to move to about 7ft before they thought there was a change in the structure but even then they thought it was properly sharp. I’ve seen asked the brother who has went through correctly laser eye surgery and his opinion was the same as the boys.

I did this for another forum


































The images where taken at 2.5m, 1.2m, 0.6m and the final one at a foot from the screen.


----------



## ameer

Luminated67 said:


> I still question this opinion that you will see the pixels because I don’t at my 10.5ft from a 100” screen which is roughly the same distance to screen ratio you are using



The difference is in sharpness! it seem DLP with a good lens is sharper than 3LCD thus appear (when side by side) to have more depth of details! but in a blind test in a 2 rooms I think it will be a hard time choosing which is more sharper (more details) and the eye will then prefer the brighter picture (which is in Epson favor) we really need a baby!


----------



## Luminated67

ameer said:


> The difference is in sharpness! it seem DLP with a good lens is sharper than 3LCD thus appear (when side by side) to have more depth of details! but in a blind test in a 2 rooms I think it will be a hard time choosing which is more sharper (more details) and the eye will then prefer the brighter picture (which is in Epson favor) we really need a baby!


I did the direct comparison with a Sony 270es (not sure the US equivalent) and from my viewing distance and screen size I couldn’t say I noticed much if any improvement in sharpness, it just looked a bit different if you know what I mean. The same is true when I bought my OLED the other week, the store had a new 8K TV playing a demo and beside it the same sized 4K, each picture looked identical.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

scottyroo said:


> So I’ve been doing some more prep work for my shoot out with the BenQ HT5550 and thought this would be an interesting share since 1) I am on record for not recommending the HT5550 for sports (foot now in mouth) and 2) I still can’t get past that I can see pixels from 16 feet away on my 160” screen. Call me crazy.
> 
> A member here known as Kraine reviews for a site called passionhomecinema.fr and he posted his review of the HT5550 today. I used his settings in the User mode and a new veil was lifted for use of the HT5550. Nearly 1500 lumens of color accurate image, within a margin of error of the 1800 or so good lumens from the 5050UB. Picture of the theater and the HT5550 playing with my back half completely illuminated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And some shots of the projectors in action. The Epson is in Alaric’s recommended settings and the HT5550 in Kraine’s (love our community). 4K enhancement is on - image preset 2.




Great pics Scotty 

I can definitely see the extra detail. Wish the Benq had lens memory or better blacks having one more of those criteria etc as it would have made me lean towards that purchase. I am coming from 1080p so fortunately I won’t be loosing resolution and only gaining it. The Benq is a great option so is the Epson


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## luismanrara

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Great pics Scotty
> 
> I can definitely see the extra detail. Wish the Benq had lens memory or better blacks having one more of those criteria etc as it would have made me lean towards that purchase. I am coming from 1080p so fortunately I won’t be loosing resolution and only gaining it. The Benq is a great option so is the Epson
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree, so I would have to plaster my face against the screen to see the extra detail and loose on the black levels, lens memory and placement flexibility on the Epson? that's a no brainer.


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## termite

Talking about Lens Memory.. one needs to be using a 2.35:1 ratio screen to take advantage of it right?


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## MidnightWatcher

Ever since I purchased my Pioneer Kuro 5080 back in 2008, my eyes were opened wide. The 5080 may technically be only 768p, but I still prefer the PQ it provides _to this day_ over many higher resolution LCD/LED HDTVs being sold in 2019. Because of the Kuro, blacks/contrast have become one of the most important qualities in PQ for me. 

As detailed as the BenQ HT5550 looks in the photos above (and it does look great), I could personally never settle for anything less than the blacks and contrast offered by my (now ageing) Epson 5030UB. I'd feel like I were taking a step back. If and when DLP manages to obtain Epson-level blacks at the same price point, it'll be a much easier decision for many of us to make.


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## scottyroo

luismanrara said:


> I agree, so I would have to plaster my face against the screen to see the extra detail and loose on the black levels, lens memory and placement flexibility on the Epson? that's a no brainer.


Ha! We wouldn't want that. For some it will be a bigger deal than others. Considering the price difference, albeit only 20% of the total cost, some people may prioritize resolution close to, or even greater than black levels. Size of screen and seating distance will need to be considered. 

I'm not saying I can see individual pixels in a moving image at a 16' distance with a 160" screen... what I'm saying is the fine detail resolution seems fuzzy coming from an 8.3M pixel projector. It's hard to explain. My brain has gotten used the way the HT3550/HT5550 renders fine detail. 

If you ever get a chance to pick up and use an iPhone 3GS after using Retina displays sometime I think you'll know what I mean. At a normal viewing distance you won't notice individual pixels on the 3GS unless you put your nose to the screen. However, our brains have grown so accustomed to the Retina display since the iPhone 4, that you can easily see a resolution difference at normal viewing distance.... even at a distance you didn't think you could see individual pixels on the 3GS before. 

With displays, the increased resolution is rarely appreciated from the get-go. Rather, it is only when you have to _back_ to the lower resolution display that you fully appreciate the increased resolution you have grown accustomed to. You feel dirty and kind of 'jipped' having to "cope" with the reduced resolution. Haha - first world problems! This is why so many people are going to be enthralled with the 5050UB - because very few will be coming from a true 4k display. And that's ok! I'm sure even some people moving from 4K displays that have acceptable screen size to seating distance ratios that will really appreciate the black levels, input lag, and brightness of the 5050UB.


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## scottyroo

termite said:


> Talking about Lens Memory.. one needs to be using a 2.35:1 ratio screen to take advantage of it right?


Mostly, yes. I'm sure there are some fringe use cases for lens memory for a fixed 16:9 screen, but I haven't found that benefit yet. The only thing I can think of is using blanking on scope material, but from first hand experience, there is no difference in letterbox black levels with or without blanking.


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## Luminated67

scottyroo said:


> Ha! We wouldn't want that. For some it will be a bigger deal than others. Considering the price difference, albeit only 20% of the total cost, some people may prioritize resolution close to, or even greater than black levels. Size of screen and seating distance will need to be considered.
> 
> I'm not saying I can see individual pixels in a moving image at a 16' distance with a 160" screen... what I'm saying is the fine detail resolution seems fuzzy coming from an 8.3M pixel projector. It's hard to explain. My brain has gotten used the way the HT3550/HT5550 renders fine detail.
> 
> If you ever get a chance to pick up and use an iPhone 3GS after using Retina displays sometime I think you'll know what I mean. At a normal viewing distance you won't notice individual pixels on the 3GS unless you put your nose to the screen. However, our brains have grown so accustomed to the Retina display since the iPhone 4, that you can easily see a resolution difference at normal viewing distance.... even at a distance you didn't think you could see individual pixels on the 3GS before.
> 
> With displays, the increased resolution is rarely appreciated from the get-go. Rather, it is only when you have to _back_ to the lower resolution display that you fully appreciate the increased resolution you have grown accustomed to. You feel dirty and kind of 'jipped' having to "cope" with the reduced resolution. Haha - first world problems! This is why so many people are going to be enthralled with the 5050UB - because very few will be coming from a true 4k display. And that's ok! I'm sure even some people moving from 4K displays that have acceptable screen size to seating distance ratios that will really appreciate the black levels, input lag, and brightness of the 5050UB.


This is odd to me simply because I compared the Epson against Native 4K which no one can deny is superior to even True 4K as there’s no smudging the pixels as there is with the either e-shift system and I couldn’t see the improvement in sharpness you are mentioning here. Even in the two images of the full sized lizard you can’t see the improved sharpness simply because our eyes can’t focus this detailed. Look at the images I did of Gandalf, you can only truly notice the pixels at the 2 foot from the screen, the camera doesn’t lie.


----------



## Luminated67

scottyroo said:


> The only thing I can think of is using blanking on scope material, but from first hand experience, there is no difference in letterbox black levels with or without blanking.


Very true, it’s one of the first things I did when I got the projector. My intention is to switch my current 100” 16:9 screen to a 115” 2.35:1 acoustic screen, only then will lens memory truly become a benefit.


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## jeahrens

termite said:


> Talking about Lens Memory.. one needs to be using a 2.35:1 ratio screen to take advantage of it right?


Any screen wider than 1.78:1 (16:9) would use it. There are folks using 2.0:1 screens (and other variations) out there in addition to scope.


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## scottyroo

Luminated67 said:


> This is odd to me simply because I compared the Epson against Native 4K which no one can deny is superior to even True 4K as there’s no smudging the pixels as there is with the either e-shift system and I couldn’t see the improvement in sharpness you are mentioning here. Even in the two images of the full sized lizard you can’t see the improved sharpness simply because our eyes can’t focus this detailed. Look at the images I did of Gandalf, you can only truly notice the pixels at the 2 foot from the screen, the camera doesn’t lie.


I don't disagree. Like I said, it's hard to explain. 

Text on screen (Xbox menu, navigating Shield TV) you can for sure tell a difference side by side in sharpness.

Moving content. You're right, I don't think I would notice an appreciable difference in a single scene side by side even on my large screen.

I think the kicker is that you have to have spent a significant amount of time with a true 4K unit to have your brain get used to how fine detail is rendered. Refer to my iPhone analogy above. FOR ME...there will be a scene where something just looks a off or fuzzy.


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## Alaric

termite said:


> Talking about Lens Memory.. one needs to be using a 2.35:1 ratio screen to take advantage of it right?


In normal operation, yes as explained elsewhere.
However on a wider shot film on my 16:9 screen i ocasionally shift the image up and have no black bar at the top and a big one at the bottom.
You could do a simple one side moveable masking that way, but in my case it's better for back row watching, if we tilt the recliner right back, or feet / knees getting in the way. 
Essential, not at all but actually quite useful if you have it to play with! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> Very true, it’s one of the first things I did when I got the projector. My intention is to switch my current 100” 16:9 screen to a 115” 2.35:1 acoustic screen, only then will lens memory truly become a benefit.




I’ve been debating this for a while now. I am going with an acoustic transparent screen. Ill probably buy a silver ticket again however do I go for a 110 /120 16:9 or do I go for 115 2:35:1 as they don’t seem to have any other size available. 

I currently run a Grey screen 100 16:9


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JonfromCB

Great admiration and thanks to all of enlightening details from the videophiles providing all the details and input. It's helping me learn and understand some new things....but for those of us who just want to upgrade to a new pj, turn on a disc, cable, or streaming content and watch without ever touching anything other than the on and source button; which one is the better choice? Thanks


----------



## Luminated67

JonfromCB said:


> Great admiration and thanks to all of enlightening details from the videophiles providing all the details and input. It's helping me learn and understand some new things....but for those of us who just want to upgrade to a new pj, turn on a disc, cable, or streaming content and watch without ever touching anything other than the on and source button; which one is the better choice? Thanks


I get what you are saying but I was that person a while back where all I wanted was to turn on, watch a movie and that was it which was why I had the Sony HW45es but very quickly you get hooked into this and then you want more from your system which is why the Epson is quite unique at this price point for what’s on offer.


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## termite

Alaric said:


> In normal operation, yes as explained elsewhere.
> However on a wider shot film on my 16:9 screen i ocasionally shift the image up and have no black bar at the top and a big one at the bottom.
> You could do a simple one side moveable masking that way, but in my case it's better for back row watching, if we tilt the recliner right back, or feet / knees getting in the way.
> Essential, not at all but actually quite useful if you have it to play with!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk



What I do now when running a wider shot film on my 16:9 screen is to roll the screen up using the remote control so that the bottom black screen border lines up with the lower edge of the image area. Top black bar remains but the bottom is eliminated without making the viewer to look up (image remains at the eye level).
My 16:9 screen is 120" and my room doesn't allow me to install any screen wider than that because of the 2 walls on the sides. This is why in my situation I was wondering whether I could take advantage of the lens memory feature and still feel I gained something extra ..


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## joel dickman

*It's NOT hard to explain*



scottyroo said:


> I don't disagree. Like I said, it's hard to explain.
> 
> Text on screen (Xbox menu, navigating Shield TV) you can for sure tell a difference side by side in sharpness.
> 
> Moving content. You're right, I don't think I would notice an appreciable difference in a single scene side by side even on my large screen.
> 
> I think the kicker is that you have to have spent a significant amount of time with a true 4K unit to have your brain get used to how fine detail is rendered. Refer to my iPhone analogy above. FOR ME...there will be a scene where something just looks a off or fuzzy.


*Different viewers have different levels of visual acuity.* Print out a Snellen chart and stand 20 feet away. I would wager that scottyroo can make out the bottom line of characters, and that he has 20/20 vision. He might have vision that is superior to this. A small minority of people - usually very young - can score 20/15 or better. As people age, they usually experience a gradual decline in their ability to read the lowest lines of the chart, even with corrective lenses. 

*Moral of the story: for many of us - but not all of us - spending extra dollars on projectors with the very highest "true 4K" or "native 4K" resolution is flushing money down the toilet. *

The story changes with black levels and contrast. Here the vast majority of viewers have roughly equal ability to appreciate inkier blacks, at least when viewing the darker parts of movies in a light-controlled room. 

I am reminded of a line from an old Clint Eastwood film: *"A man's got to know his own limitations."*

Happy viewing,
Joel Dickman


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## Sonrob26

JonfromCB said:


> Great admiration and thanks to all of enlightening details from the videophiles providing all the details and input. It's helping me learn and understand some new things....but for those of us who just want to upgrade to a new pj, turn on a disc, cable, or streaming content and watch without ever touching anything other than the on and source button; which one is the better choice? Thanks


From what I read the concensus is if you want the sharpness and your room is light controlled then go for the ben Q, However, if what you need is brightness and you need flexibility in your installation then go with the epson. I have the epson 5050 and so far I am very happy with my purchase. My theater is in a common area and I like spectral highlights on my HDR movies therefore I chose the brightest projector. Like you I also want to watch a movie and forget about settings but I did tinker with its options out of the box which are abundant on what you can do. I settled for bright cinema on normal lamp for 4k movies with HDR slider at 8. For blurays however I am very pleased with cinema mode at normal lamp mode. I want to make further improvements down the road such as adding that panasonic player everyone is raving about but for now I am good. Movie watching is now better than going to the theater. I popped in several movies now and I have not looked back at the settings once. Granted there are movies that dont look as sharp or not as bright as you would want it but that really comes from the content. I used bladerunner 2049 as my reference movie. Knowing that the movie looks good the rest should look as good or its just how the movie looks like. Christine being an old movie looked awesome and newer movies such as ready player one where just jaw dropping. On the other hand movies like Mission Impossible Fall out or the Last Jedi dont look so great because of the color filter that ws added but hey thats directors intent. 

The choice to get the epson was not easy so I understand where your coming from when it comes to your final selected PJ. However, once you do decide, calibrate to your liking and setltle to watch some movies at your preferred settings. Soon you will be lost in the story and get all of the enjoyment from your purchse. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

I get my 5050UB after work tonight. I am so pumped. I will also be getting the Panasonic UB820 st the same time. Will post impressions and screen shots when I can. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## groggrog

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I get my 5050UB after work tonight. I am so pumped. I will also be getting the Panasonic UB820 st the same time. Will post impressions and screen shots when I can.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Curious if you can get the 1.01 firmware update installed. I had no luck with it.


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## CallingMrBenzo

I will let you know tomorrow I don’t plan on going down that path tonight. I want to get some viewing time in before I get disappointed  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## groggrog

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I will let you know tomorrow I don’t plan on going down that path tonight. I want to get some viewing time in before I get disappointed
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



LOL I hear that. Enjoy!


----------



## FendersRule

Are black levels better than the 8700UB? One would have to assume so...


----------



## b_radfury

Can anyone confirm if the 5050UB can fully support the PS4 Pro without the use of a linker? 4K HDR gaming via PS4 Pro could not be supported with the 5040UB without a linker. I was just hoping this one does not require it.


----------



## Luminated67

joel dickman said:


> *Different viewers have different levels of visual acuity.* Print out a Snellen chart and stand 20 feet away. I would wager that scottyroo can make out the bottom line of characters, and that he has 20/20 vision. He might have vision that is superior to this. A small minority of people - usually very young - can score 20/15 or better. As people age, they usually experience a gradual decline in their ability to read the lowest lines of the chart, even with corrective lenses.
> 
> *Moral of the story: for many of us - but not all of us - spending extra dollars on projectors with the very highest "true 4K" or "native 4K" resolution is flushing money down the toilet. *
> 
> The story changes with black levels and contrast. Here the vast majority of viewers have roughly equal ability to appreciate inkier blacks, at least when viewing the darker parts of movies in a light-controlled room.
> 
> I am reminded of a line from an old Clint Eastwood film: *"A man's got to know his own limitations."*
> 
> Happy viewing,
> Joel Dickman


Which is why I asked my brother for his opinion, corrective laser surgery has given him 20/15 vision.


----------



## germanplumber

tschu said:


> It’s not on Best Buy’s website yet. How did you order it?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



The sku is 6344895. It isn't on bestbuy.com yet. I had to go into my local store and had to have someone search through their systems to find it. Then they ordered it and set it up for pickup for me because it was the faster way to get it.


EDIT: Nevermind its on their website now. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/epson-...h-dynamic-range-white/6344895.p?skuId=6344895


----------



## tschu

germanplumber said:


> The sku is 6344895. It isn't on bestbuy.com yet. I had to go into my local store and had to have someone search through their systems to find it. Then they ordered it and set it up for pickup for me because it was the faster way to get it.




Thanks! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## germanplumber

tschu said:


> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



https://www.bestbuy.com/site/epson-...h-dynamic-range-white/6344895.p?skuId=6344895 It is on their website now.


----------



## Guru_Karma

I've been waiting to replace my aging Optoma HD30 for a few years now, and I think I am ready to pull the trigger. I do a lot of console gaming on the projector and while the BenQ is much less expensive and I have been DLP projector owner most of my life, but it appears the Epson has much, much faster input lag from what I've read. Is this still the consensus or have settings been found on the BenQ that might persuade me away from the Epson?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

So I have the unit and it’s huge. It’s mounted ready to go. I have when not watching content had a message come up on a blue screen stating auto iris failure contact Epson and power off machine. When trying to power off the lights will all flash. 

Pulling the power chord and rebooting and it’s working and watching Passengers 4K currently


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## keithj101

Yeah, I'm one of the few that had to return the projector due to the hulking size of it. Was too much of an eye sore in my apartment living room. ie it did not pass the wife test. And honesty she's right. Once I have a dedicated space for a theater set up, I can go for an enormous projector. Until then I need something a little less assuming.


----------



## hnupe

*Upgrade the 5040 to 5050? Thoughts Please*

Soooooo, is it worth it to upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050?

Thanks


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

keithj101 said:


> Yeah, I'm one of the few that had to return the projector due to the hulking size of it. Was too much of an eye sore in my apartment living room. ie it did not pass the wife test. And honesty she's right. Once I have a dedicated space for a theater set up, I can go for an enormous projector. Until then I need something a little less assuming.




The Epson 3700 is tiny by comparison 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nickoakdl

hnupe said:


> Soooooo, is it worth it to upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050?
> 
> Thanks


I'm waiting for this too. I've yet to see anyone who has upgraded from the 5040 to the 5050. As a 5040 owner, I am very happy with it, but I also get the upgrade bug very easily. Part of me wonders if Epson eventually releases a completely different model in the next year or so that is true 4k. The 5040 quickly got caught up with by cheaper DLPs (both with their own pros/cons obviously) and the 5050 is basically the same projector but with a software update and better HDMIs. I can't imagine that Epson is content on being the last to offer true 4k.


----------



## keithj101

The Epson 3700 is tiny by comparison 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

Did the 5050 fit in the same space the 3700 was in? That was my issue. 3700 seemed to disappear into my living room space, 5050 was too obtrusive.


----------



## Troub

keithj101 said:


> The Epson 3700 is tiny by comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did the 5050 fit in the same space the 3700 was in? That was my issue. 3700 seemed to disappear into my living room space, 5050 was too obtrusive.[/QUOTE]

That box is almost as big as your car


----------



## ckronengold

Totally jealous. I "worked from home" yesterday, waiting for the phone call that my 5050 arrived. 

Unfortunately, I got this email instead. (bonus points for high touch service, though).....

"so we ended up having to pick the projector up at Fed Ex in K****burg as opposed to the distributor in South P*****eld. According to Fed Ex they were reboxing the outer box and just the whole thing seemed strange. So we picked it up and brought it here and opened it and while it is the projector it seemed open and missing some accessories. We have boxed it back up and have another one on order. I will let you know when we expect to see it."

So I'll just drool over your pics for another day or two.


----------



## ckronengold

CallingMrBenzo;57910074
I’ve been debating this for a while now. I am going with an acoustic transparent screen. Ill probably buy a silver ticket again however do I go for a 110 /120 16:9 or do I go for 115 2:35:1 as they don’t seem to have any other size available.
[/QUOTE said:


> They make a 127" or 128" and a 142" 2.35:1.
> 
> https://www.silverticketproducts.com/collections/fixed-projection-screens/products/str-235125
> 
> https://www.silverticketproducts.com/collections/fixed-projection-screens/products/str-235138
> 
> I plan on going with the 127.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

ckronengold said:


> They make a 127" or 128" and a 142" 2.35:1.
> 
> https://www.silverticketproducts.com/collections/fixed-projection-screens/products/str-235125
> 
> https://www.silverticketproducts.com/collections/fixed-projection-screens/products/str-235138
> 
> I plan on going with the 127.




Acoustically transparent and in stock they only have a 115 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Acoustically transparent and in stock they only have a 115
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh, you need one thats "in stock"? Thats just asking a little bit too much, don't ya think? So greedy in this thread!

Amazon has a few left. 

https://www.amazon.com/STR-235125-S...B&qid=1555509545&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

ckronengold said:


> Oh, you need one thats "in stock"? Thats just asking a little bit too much, don't ya think? So greedy in this thread!
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon has a few left.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/STR-235125-S...B&qid=1555509545&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1




Acoustically transparent as well come on  I want the wall of sound and the center in the proper place. 

First world problems 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Acoustically transparent as well come on  I want the wall of sound and the center in the proper place.
> 
> First world problems
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


my cutting and pasting, searching and reading skills are all off this morning. I searched for the "STR-235125-WAB" and my eyes saw 'anamorphic' in the results, but my brain read 'acoustically transparent.' I'm going to get more coffee.


----------



## Hawkmarket

keithj101 said:


> The Epson 3700 is tiny by comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did the 5050 fit in the same space the 3700 was in? That was my issue. 3700 seemed to disappear into my living room space, 5050 was too obtrusive.[/QUOTE]


As a 3700 owner who is going to make the same switch, what is your opinion so far and how much of an upgrade does it feel like? I, by default, had to take my 3700 down this past weekend and need to send it in for a repair. I put my 5030 back up which has about 2,600 hours on the bulb. Although the contrast was better on the 5030 the 3700 was so much brighter that I found the 5030 hard to stomach at this point. To my eyes I'll take a really bright projector with decent blacks over a projector with modest lumens but better blacks any day of the week. I have a 16:9 150" screen so it does need the lumens. Anyway, anxious to hear your thoughts on the difference between the 3700 and the 5050.


----------



## pete ramberg

*Tone mapping:*

With the updated tone mapping in the 5050UB, what is your guys' opinion on needing the Panasonic UB820 player's tone mapping, too??

Is the UB820 player's tone mapping overkill? Needed? I'm trying to save $499 if it is purely optional!

Thanks for your opinions.


----------



## Herve

My wife and I have an RS1 projecting onto a 119" Dalite High Power 2.8-gain screen (the latter in perfect condition, knock on wood). I'd love to hear what owners of the 5050 and that particular screen have to say about the combo. Do you need sunglasses? Can you have say a reading light on, or a light off to the side, and still get a good image?

Thanks.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

pete ramberg said:


> With the updated tone mapping in the 5050UB, what is your guys' opinion on needing the Panasonic UB820 player's tone mapping, too??
> 
> 
> 
> Is the UB820 player's tone mapping overkill? Needed? I'm trying to save $499 if it is purely optional!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your opinions.






I will let you know. I have not unboxed my Panasonic yet because I wanted to see how the Epson performed by itself. I did not love the settings I tried last night I found others to try on AV forums. I played with the HDR slider but there is so much you can change I would love to set it and forget it. I will get a few more movies u set my belt then try the Panasonic and compare directly. I got mine open box to save some money. 


I will say setting up the new Epson with the remote and shifting the image and zooming took less than 4 mins and it’s better than I ever got with the 3700


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pete ramberg

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I will let you know. I have not unboxed my Panasonic yet because I wanted to see how the Epson performed by itself. I did not love the settings I tried last night I found others to try on AV forums. I played with the HDR slider but there is so much you can change I would love to set it and forget it. I will get a few more movies u set my belt then try the Panasonic and compare directly. I got mine open box to save some money.
> 
> 
> I will say setting up the new Epson with the remote and shifting the image and zooming took less than 4 mins and it’s better than I ever got with the 3700
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Please let me (us?) know about the tone mapping with and without the Panasonic UB820. Thanks bunches.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Hawkmarket said:


> Did the 5050 fit in the same space the 3700 was in? That was my issue. 3700 seemed to disappear into my living room space, 5050 was too obtrusive.



As a 3700 owner who is going to make the same switch, what is your opinion so far and how much of an upgrade does it feel like? I, by default, had to take my 3700 down this past weekend and need to send it in for a repair. I put my 5030 back up which has about 2,600 hours on the bulb. Although the contrast was better on the 5030 the 3700 was so much brighter that I found the 5030 hard to stomach at this point. To my eyes I'll take a really bright projector with decent blacks over a projector with modest lumens but better blacks any day of the week. I have a 16:9 150" screen so it does need the lumens. Anyway, anxious to hear your thoughts on the difference between the 3700 and the 5050.[/QUOTE]



I have mine ceiling mounted so I changed mounts to one to accommodate a heavier projector. It’s in the same location exactly. With very limited viewing the first time I pressed the volume up on my Marantz the blackness of the bar surrounding the volume indicator was night and day. 

The blacks are fantastic. The colors for instance during the end credits of Passengers showing space scenes was amazing. 

It will take a while to fine tune and set it up the way I want but as is there is a noticeable noticeable different. My wife and buddy that watches lots of movies with us were floored by it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

CallingMrBenzo said:


> As a 3700 owner who is going to make the same switch, what is your opinion so far and how much of an upgrade does it feel like? I, by default, had to take my 3700 down this past weekend and need to send it in for a repair. I put my 5030 back up which has about 2,600 hours on the bulb. Although the contrast was better on the 5030 the 3700 was so much brighter that I found the 5030 hard to stomach at this point. To my eyes I'll take a really bright projector with decent blacks over a projector with modest lumens but better blacks any day of the week. I have a 16:9 150" screen so it does need the lumens. Anyway, anxious to hear your thoughts on the difference between the 3700 and the 5050.


 

I have mine ceiling mounted so I changed mounts to one to accommodate a heavier projector. It’s in the same location exactly. With very limited viewing the first time I pressed the volume up on my Marantz the blackness of the bar surrounding the volume indicator was night and day. 

The blacks are fantastic. The colors for instance during the end credits of Passengers showing space scenes was amazing. 

It will take a while to fine tune and set it up the way I want but as is there is a noticeable noticeable different. My wife and buddy that watches lots of movies with us were floored by it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]


Great to hear. My biggest concern is if there is a noticeable brightness difference between the two that's distracting. The 3700 is an extremely bright projector that I've become accustomed to so I'm interested to hear how bright the 5050 is by comparison. I typically run it in cinema eco mode so I'm not maxing it out by any stretch but that's probably still close to 2,000 lumens or lets say 1700 now that I have a 1,000 hours on the bulb.


----------



## Jstillen2

scottyroo said:


> Ha! We wouldn't want that. For some it will be a bigger deal than others. Considering the price difference, albeit only 20% of the total cost, some people may prioritize resolution close to, or even greater than black levels. Size of screen and seating distance will need to be considered.
> 
> I'm not saying I can see individual pixels in a moving image at a 16' distance with a 160" screen... what I'm saying is the fine detail resolution seems fuzzy coming from an 8.3M pixel projector. It's hard to explain. My brain has gotten used the way the HT3550/HT5550 renders fine detail.
> 
> If you ever get a chance to pick up and use an iPhone 3GS after using Retina displays sometime I think you'll know what I mean. At a normal viewing distance you won't notice individual pixels on the 3GS unless you put your nose to the screen. However, our brains have grown so accustomed to the Retina display since the iPhone 4, that you can easily see a resolution difference at normal viewing distance.... even at a distance you didn't think you could see individual pixels on the 3GS before.
> 
> With displays, the increased resolution is rarely appreciated from the get-go. Rather, it is only when you have to _back_ to the lower resolution display that you fully appreciate the increased resolution you have grown accustomed to. You feel dirty and kind of 'jipped' having to "cope" with the reduced resolution. Haha - first world problems! This is why so many people are going to be enthralled with the 5050UB - because very few will be coming from a true 4k display. And that's ok! I'm sure even some people moving from 4K displays that have acceptable screen size to seating distance ratios that will really appreciate the black levels, input lag, and brightness of the 5050UB.


I, like many, am racking my brain on these two units. 
I am a 1080p guy, coming from a BenQ 2050. I have to say, for a cheapo unit I've been nothing but impressed....Except for the hideous blacks. In upgrading, my one true need is better blacks. However, in making the move to an upgrade I would be remiss not to improve picture quality while I am at it. 

Coming from a BenQ 2050, is the 5050ub THAT much better in blacks? I've considered the 5040ub (at its current discount), but I don't feel as future proof with this unit. I game/movie watch about equal in a 100% light controlled room at a 130" screen. I'm hoping to get a slight WOW factor in black level upgrade. Any other bells and whistle would just be a welcome bonus. 

Thanks in advance.

@scottyroo - really appreciate all of your very non biased commentary on these units. I find many reviewers become fans of a particular unit and its hard to weed through if their opinions are fact of if they are just a little love drunk over a particular model.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Hawkmarket said:


> I have mine ceiling mounted so I changed mounts to one to accommodate a heavier projector. It’s in the same location exactly. With very limited viewing the first time I pressed the volume up on my Marantz the blackness of the bar surrounding the volume indicator was night and day.
> 
> The blacks are fantastic. The colors for instance during the end credits of Passengers showing space scenes was amazing.
> 
> It will take a while to fine tune and set it up the way I want but as is there is a noticeable noticeable different. My wife and buddy that watches lots of movies with us were floored by it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Great to hear. My biggest concern is if there is a noticeable brightness difference between the two that's distracting. The 3700 is an extremely bright projector that I've become accustomed to so I'm interested to hear how bright the 5050 is by comparison. I typically run it in cinema eco mode so I'm not maxing it out by any stretch but that's probably still close to 2,000 lumens or lets say 1700 now that I have a 1,000 hours on the bulb.[/QUOTE]



I have 1,050 hours on my 3700 and I too ran it in ECO exclusively. I will say anything other than eco was too bright and the fan noise was terrible. 

The 5050UB definitely seemed to be quieter overall. I tried a setting in high lamp mode and it was still quiet. This could be due to constant ambient noise from the movie I was watching but I liked the audible level 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## scottyroo

Jstillen2 said:


> I, like many, am racking my brain on these two units.
> 
> I am a 1080p guy, coming from a BenQ 2050. I have to say, for a cheapo unit I've been nothing but impressed....Except for the hideous blacks. In upgrading, my one true need is better blacks. However, in making the move to an upgrade I would be remiss not to improve picture quality while I am at it.
> 
> 
> 
> Coming from a BenQ 2050, is the 5050ub THAT much better in blacks? I've considered the 5040ub (at its current discount), but I don't feel as future proof with this unit. I game/movie watch about equal in a 100% light controlled room at a 130" screen. I'm hoping to get a slight WOW factor in black level upgrade. Any other bells and whistle would just be a welcome bonus.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @scottyroo - really appreciate all of your very non biased commentary on these units. I find many reviewers become fans of a particular unit and its hard to weed through if their opinions are fact of if they are just a little love drunk over a particular model.




Thanks for the shout out! Really appreciate that.


----------



## Hawkmarket

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Great to hear. My biggest concern is if there is a noticeable brightness difference between the two that's distracting. The 3700 is an extremely bright projector that I've become accustomed to so I'm interested to hear how bright the 5050 is by comparison. I typically run it in cinema eco mode so I'm not maxing it out by any stretch but that's probably still close to 2,000 lumens or lets say 1700 now that I have a 1,000 hours on the bulb.


 

I have 1,050 hours on my 3700 and I too ran it in ECO exclusively. I will say anything other than eco was too bright and the fan noise was terrible. 

The 5050UB definitely seemed to be quieter overall. I tried a setting in high lamp mode and it was still quiet. This could be due to constant ambient noise from the movie I was watching but I liked the audible level 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

What size screen do you have?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Hawkmarket said:


> I have 1,050 hours on my 3700 and I too ran it in ECO exclusively. I will say anything other than eco was too bright and the fan noise was terrible.
> 
> The 5050UB definitely seemed to be quieter overall. I tried a setting in high lamp mode and it was still quiet. This could be due to constant ambient noise from the movie I was watching but I liked the audible level
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What size screen do you have?[/QUOTE]



100 inch 16:9 Grey Silver Ticket but will be upgrading to 120 16:9 or 115/125 2:35:1 Acoustically transparent in the very near future. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Keltron

CallingMrBenzo said:


> The Epson 3700 is tiny by comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did it fit in your Miata?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



Keltron said:


> Did it fit in your Miata?




Hahah the Miata only sees the track otherwise it’s an empty water bottle holder. 


So this Iris inoperative thing is an issue. Happened two times tonight. Epson is sending me a replacement unit. Very annoying ... but they didn’t mess around in the phone and should be shipping me one tomorrow. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GlenH

Hey can we all agree to stop quoting the entire post with all the pictures in it? You have the option to trim out the pictures or if you want to make a joke about the Miata or the projector being sized like the car you can trim the quote down to only include the Miata picture if you must. Thanks.


----------



## hnupe

*Is it worth it? Over the 5040?*



nickoakdl said:


> I'm waiting for this too. I've yet to see anyone who has upgraded from the 5040 to the 5050. As a 5040 owner, I am very happy with it, but I also get the upgrade bug very easily. Part of me wonders if Epson eventually releases a completely different model in the next year or so that is true 4k. The 5040 quickly got caught up with by cheaper DLPs (both with their own pros/cons obviously) and the 5050 is basically the same projector but with a software update and better HDMIs. I can't imagine that Epson is content on being the last to offer true 4k.


LOL...still have not heard anyone say one way or the other? Wonder if the price difference is worth it.


----------



## gene4ht

keithj101 said:


> Yeah, I'm one of the few that had to return the projector due to the *hulking size* of it. Was too much of an *eye sore* in my apartment living room. ie it did not pass the wife test. And honesty she's right. Once I have a dedicated space for a theater set up, I can go for an enormous projector. Until then I need something a little less assuming.


Size is relative...to what one is used to...and what has priority...decor or an immersive image/experience. Sometimes, with creativity, the two can co-exist. There are many projector installation in these threads incorporated into very small spaces. Here is an example of a 5040 in a small apartment.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-486.html#post56228794

And another in a dedicate 10' x 10' space with a similar size projector that became Home Theater of The Month!

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/92-c...51-ht-month-theater-hobbits.html#post24071350

In any case...good luck with your pursuit for a dedicated space!


----------



## nickoakdl

hnupe said:


> nickoakdl said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for this too. I've yet to see anyone who has upgraded from the 5040 to the 5050. As a 5040 owner, I am very happy with it, but I also get the upgrade bug very easily. Part of me wonders if Epson eventually releases a completely different model in the next year or so that is true 4k. The 5040 quickly got caught up with by cheaper DLPs (both with their own pros/cons obviously) and the 5050 is basically the same projector but with a software update and better HDMIs. I can't imagine that Epson is content on being the last to offer true 4k.
> 
> 
> 
> LOL...still have not heard anyone say one way or the other? Wonder if the price difference is worth it.
Click to expand...

I went to avforums, and their model came out several month ago, and it seems if the 5040 is working for you the new version isn't quite worth the upgrade. Some people actually preferred the older model claiming the newer one is louder. I'll probably just wait.


----------



## gene4ht

hnupe said:


> Soooooo, is it worth it to upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050?
> 
> Thanks





nickoakdl said:


> I'm waiting for this too. I've yet to see anyone who has upgraded from the 5040 to the 5050. As a 5040 owner, I am very happy with it, but I also get the upgrade bug very easily. Part of me wonders if Epson eventually releases a completely different model in the next year or so that is true 4k. The 5040 quickly got caught up with by cheaper DLPs (both with their own pros/cons obviously) and the 5050 is basically the same projector but with a software update and better HDMIs. I can't imagine that Epson is content on being the last to offer true 4k.


For me personally....without getting into specs and capability debates...for the $1000 differential...absolutely not...for a $500 differential...maybe...for a $250 differential...probably. Bottom line, I'm completely happy with the 5040 as my use case is 100% movies...no gaming. The extra 100 lumens is negligible in a light controlled room. IMO, the $1000 is better spent/utilized upgrading other components in the system...receiver, amp, Atmos, speakers, subwoofer, 4K UHD Player, streaming device, etc. Of course, YMMV.


----------



## Jstillen2

Coming from, and being a very satisfied owner of a 1080p BenQ 2050....

Would I get any type of significant upgrade in black levels buying the 5050ub? Or would I have to dive into a JVC to get that? 
I dont need the best of the best in black levels, but in purchasing the 5050ub (of the 5040ub), I would hope to get a noticable difference. I like the specs of these, but have not been able to test them. 

130" screen in a 100% light controlled room surrounded in black velvet (virtually zero reflections).


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Jstillen2 said:


> Coming from, and being a very satisfied owner of a 1080p BenQ 2050....
> 
> Would I get any type of significant upgrade in black levels buying the 5050ub? Or would I have to dive into a JVC to get that?
> I dont need the best of the best in black levels, but in purchasing the 5050ub (of the 5040ub), I would hope to get a noticable difference. I like the specs of these, but have not been able to test them.
> 
> 130" screen in a 100% light controlled room surrounded in black velvet (virtually zero reflections).


You would see a noticeable improvement in the black levels.


----------



## Jstillen2

MidnightWatcher said:


> You would see a noticeable improvement in the black levels.


 @MidnightWatcher - Thanks for stating what I was hoping for. I think that's enough to make the move. I'll likely enjoy some of the other features as well, being this will be my first projector accepting 4K content.


----------



## gene4ht

Jstillen2 said:


> Coming from, and being a very satisfied owner of a 1080p BenQ 2050....
> 
> Would I get any type of significant upgrade in black levels buying the 5050ub? Or would I have to dive into a JVC to get that?
> *I dont need the best of the best in black levels*, but in purchasing the 5050ub (of the 5040ub), *I would hope to get a noticable difference*. I like the specs of these, but have not been able to test them.
> 
> 130" screen in a 100% light controlled room surrounded in black velvet (virtually zero reflections).





MidnightWatcher said:


> You would see a noticeable improvement in the black levels.


I'm in agreement with MidnightWatcher...there would be an appreciable improvement in black level. The JVCs enjoy the "best black levels" but only in a bat cave. In other than "bat cave" environments, the black levels of the Epson's are commensurate....where the Epson's will also produce a brighter image...you won't be disappointed.


----------



## Alex512

Herve said:


> My wife and I have an RS1 projecting onto a 119" Dalite High Power 2.8-gain screen (the latter in perfect condition, knock on wood). I'd love to hear what owners of the 5050 and that particular screen have to say about the combo. Do you need sunglasses? Can you have say a reading light on, or a light off to the side, and still get a good image?
> 
> Thanks.


Hi Herve, My wife and I also had an RS1 but with a 92” high power pull down. They have recently been replaced with an Epson 5040 and new 100” 1.3 gain UHD fix frame screen. The difference in brightness is the most significant, but everything is better. Resolution, shadow details, colors and without numbers the ansi contrast. The only thing RS1 has over the 5040 is double the contrast (15,000 vs 7,000). It’s noticeable to us only on anamorphic movie bars. With the Epson being as bright as it is though, blacks look deeper on the Epson during normal viewing. The 5040 is only 100 lumens lower than the 5050. So to answer your questions. Yes, I can have ever light on in the room and still comfortable to watch everything but really dark content. The RS1 in comparison couldn’t have any lights on at all. Hope this was helpful. 👍


----------



## keithj101

gene4ht said:


> keithj101 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm one of the few that had to return the projector due to the *hulking size* of it. Was too much of an *eye sore* in my apartment living room. ie it did not pass the wife test. And honesty she's right. Once I have a dedicated space for a theater set up, I can go for an enormous projector. Until then I need something a little less assuming.
> 
> 
> 
> Size is relative...to what one is used to...and what has priority...decor or an immersive image/experience. Sometimes, with creativity, the two can co-exist. There are many projector installation in these threads incorporated into very small spaces. Here is an example of a 5040 in a small apartment.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-486.html#post56228794
> 
> And another in a dedicate 10' x 10' space with a similar size projector that became Home Theater of The Month!
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/92-c...51-ht-month-theater-hobbits.html#post24071350
> 
> In any case...good luck with your pursuit for a dedicated space!
Click to expand...

Great examples, thanks for sharing! I'm definitely hoping to be able to do projector setup in a Dedicated room at some time. If the epson 5050 was just a bit smaller it would have passed
the wife test. Im just lucky she is cool having a 110 inch screen and surround sound in our living room,ha.


----------



## Herve

Alex512 said:


> Hi Herve, My wife and I also had an RS1 but with a 92” high power pull down. They have recently been replaced with an Epson 5040 and new 100” 1.3 gain UHD fix frame screen. The difference in brightness is the most significant, but everything is better. Resolution, shadow details, colors and without numbers the ansi contrast. The only thing RS1 has over the 5040 is double the contrast (15,000 vs 7,000). It’s noticeable to us only on anamorphic movie bars. With the Epson being as bright as it is though, blacks look deeper on the Epson during normal viewing. The 5040 is only 100 lumens lower than the 5050. So to answer your questions. Yes, I can have ever light on in the room and still comfortable to watch everything but really dark content. The RS1 in comparison couldn’t have any lights on at all. Hope this was helpful. 👍


Thanks!

Did you try out the 5040 with the HP before you replaced it with your present screen and, if so, what did you think of the image?

Thanks again.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

keithj101 said:


> Great examples, thanks for sharing! I'm definitely hoping to be able to do projector setup in a Dedicated room at some time. If the epson 5050 was just a bit smaller it would have passed
> the wife test. Im just lucky she is cool having a 110 inch screen and surround sound in our living room,ha.


Any capable, quality unit is going to have a larger size associated with that improved performance. If the Epson is too big I would highly recommend checking out the new Benq HT5550. Its a great piece of kit from all the press and reviews out on it and it seems to be smaller by a decent amount.


----------



## [email protected]

Here are my 2 cents,

I just bought the Epson 5050UB on Friday last week and have been using it ever since, My comparison to it was my used since 2013 Optoma HD25 1080p projector with a fresh bulb. The older projector has the DC3 chip and better contrast than the new Benq projectors do natively. I also had a Viewsonic PX-727, 4K with light border for a while and returned it immediately. No amount of sharpness will replace the perceived picture enhancement of contrast and color. The Epson is leaps and bounds better than the Viewsonic or Optoma on 1080p and especially 4K. The black levels in my mostly light controlled room is awesome. Shadow details is great, I just watched the Season Premiere of Game of Thrones from Amazon on the Epson, it looked immaculate, black levels, shadow details, and definition (even though it was a 1080p feed via Apple TV 4K upscaled). I watch on 103" 16:9 Vutec motorized roll down screen with Vu Flex Pro material (don't like tab tensioned look), about 9.5" feet back in a 2 tone brown room with white popcorn ceiling, an area rung that is brown around the viewing area, no native windows, and a carrera white marble floor outside of the area rug for reference. I have a 65" Sony XBR65X950B (behind roll down screen) for comparison of non HDR 1080p and 4K sources and no longer feel the need for it like I did with the Optoma projector, I am that satisfied with the Epson. I have 20/15 vision and am a A/V engineer for a living and have access to all kinds of product but I live with a beer budget by choice. I demonstrate Barco Loki's all day in our dedicated Theater at my job's showroom. These are the things I see daily and still admire what Epson has accomplished at this price point. Attached a picture of my Room for reference.


----------



## Alex512

Herve said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Did you try out the 5040 with the HP before you replaced it with your present screen and, if so, what did you think of the image?
> 
> Thanks again.


No I did not, but tried both on the new screen. I have about 800 hrs on the 5040 so far and to be honest, when the bulb was new with bright scenes or bright flashes we both found it too bright. I never thought I’d say that. Lol


----------



## Herve

Alex512 said:


> No I did not, but tried both on the new screen. I have about 800 hrs on the 5040 so far and to be honest, when the bulb was new with bright scenes or bright flashes we both found it too bright. I never thought I’d say that. Lol


That being the case with a 1.3-gain screen, you can imagine what the HP's 2.8-gain image would have looked like.


----------



## Alex512

Herve said:


> That being the case with a 1.3-gain screen, you can imagine what the HP's 2.8-gain image would have looked like.


Yeah the retro reflecting aspect of the HP would have brought all of them extra lumens right back to our eyes 👀. The small sparkles on top of the fact that it was a cheap pull down that started to get wavy, making pans of scenes unwatchable, had to go.


----------



## rbk123

hnupe said:


> LOL...still have not heard anyone say one way or the other? Wonder if the price difference is worth it.


No. IMO it is more to entice those who didn’t want to upgrade to the 5040 because of the power supply fear.


----------



## VideoDrone

*Outstanding*

Got mine today, and installed in my custom box I modified (Ikea no less) in less than 3 minutes. Forget mounts. LOVE the auto lens setup. I upgraded from an 8500ub and i was in a trance just watching 1080p content for the first 30 minutes. Fired up my Roku Ultra and 4kHDR is stunning. Next up last is my CIH screen upgrade and I am done! Back to the watching my new 110" OLED I mean PJ!


----------



## genesis_avs

*Lens memory drift?*

Would some owners please speak to lens memory drift on the 5050 - does it exist? The 4010 that I tested would never return to the same place twice. It always required additional manual adjustments when switching between 1.78 and 2.35 saved/learned memory positions.


----------



## nickoakdl

genesis_avs said:


> Would some owners please speak to lens memory drift on the 5050 - does it exist? The 4010 that I tested would never return to the same place twice. It always required additional manual adjustments when switching between 1.78 and 2.35 memory positions.


I have the 5040 and have never had an issue with this.


----------



## seplant

Any word on when the 6050UB will be available?


----------



## gene4ht

genesis_avs said:


> Would some owners please speak to lens memory drift on the 5050 - does it exist? The 4010 that I tested would never return to the same place twice. It always required additional manual adjustments when switching between 1.78 and 2.35 saved/learned memory positions.





nickoakdl said:


> I have the 5040 and have never had an issue with this.


There was never an issue with lens memory drift...only users unaware of the proper procedure for adjustment. Perform a search in the 5040/6040 thread for Epson’s recommended (obscure) procedure and/or see the link below...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-449.html#post55838120


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

seplant said:


> Any word on when the 6050UB will be available?




I believe it’s May. What my rep at Magnolia told me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## utee05

VideoDrone said:


> Got mine today, and installed in my custom box I modified (Ikea no less) in less than 3 minutes. Forget mounts. LOVE the auto lens setup. I upgraded from an 8500ub and i was in a trance just watching 1080p content for the first 30 minutes. Fired up my Roku Ultra and 4kHDR is stunning. Next up last is my CIH screen upgrade and I am done! Back to the watching my new 110" OLED I mean PJ!




Nice custom box. Been thinking of doing something similar once I figure out which projector to get. What IKEA box did it start as?


----------



## Magnus_CA

I placed my order for a 6050UB and 106" Seymour Ambient Visionaire 1.3 Gain fixed screen yesterday. My first projector setup! I can't wait! 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Liquid$team

hnupe said:


> LOL...still have not heard anyone say one way or the other? Wonder if the price difference is worth it.


take it for what its worth as it appears to be a dealer who would have a vested interest in selling new units.


----------



## Liquid$team

VideoDrone said:


> Got mine today, and installed in my custom box I modified (Ikea no less) in less than 3 minutes. Forget mounts. LOVE the auto lens setup. I upgraded from an 8500ub and i was in a trance just watching 1080p content for the first 30 minutes. Fired up my Roku Ultra and 4kHDR is stunning. Next up last is my CIH screen upgrade and I am done! Back to the watching my new 110" OLED I mean PJ!


ugh Im so glad I found this post. I also have an 8500ub and I am thinking about upgrading to the 5050. I couldn't be happier with the 8500. Ran perfect for 9 years now and still going strong. Technically it's on it's 3rd lamp but I never reset lamp hours so I don't actually know how many hours are on the 8500 itself.

I can't wait to hear from you specifically on the upgrade. Differences? ect. I use the lens shift on the 8500 through 4 different screen to line everything up and I loved it. I'm sure it will be even cooler with powered shifting. Looking forward to read your thoughts. Thanks


----------



## thekyledaley

I just got my 5050ub today and I can't get it to accept a 18gbps signal as advertised. Both my Xbox One X and Nvidia Shield TV will not allow HDR at 4k 60 hz. I have high speed HDMI cables and have hooked both devices up directly to the back of the projector to help eliminate other variables and it simply won't work. My Xbox "TV display info" page states my display is not compatible with 4k HDR at 60 hz and if I switch my Nvidia Shield TV output settings to 60 hz instead of 24 hz, HDR no longer works, it just outputs SDR. This is the main reason I got this projector and I'm quite disappointment that it's not working as advertised. Is anyone else having this issue? Can anyone else confirm they have had a 4k HDR 60 hz signal work with any device? Could I be missing something? Thanks for your thoughts.


----------



## dimi123

I seem to remember reading somewhere that the 5050 accepts 4K HDR 60Hz only at 4:2:2 and not 4:4:4.


----------



## Luminated67

dimi123 said:


> I seem to remember reading somewhere that the 5050 accepts 4K HDR 60Hz only at 4:2:2 and not 4:4:4.


Unfortunately I don’t have a games console to test this for you, though will ask on the AVForum and get back to you.


----------



## DavidK442

Liquid$team said:


> take it for what its worth as it appears to be a dealer who would have a vested interest in selling new units.
> 
> https://youtu.be/Jr4JpVBJkGk


Looks like some dude in his bedroom who is about to sell a few projectors once they "fall" off the back of a truck.


----------



## Alex Hindman

DavidK442 said:


> Looks like some dude in his bedroom who is about to sell a few projectors once they "fall" off the back of a truck.


Seems like an unfair thing to say. He definitely has a vested interest as all dealers do, but to insinuate he is a low quality dealer is irresponsible at best. He had insanely good reviews here in Dallas and from what I hear is super responsive. Just seems like an odd assumption to make without knowing any details.


----------



## thekyledaley

dimi123 said:


> I seem to remember reading somewhere that the 5050 accepts 4K HDR 60Hz only at 4:2:2 and not 4:4:4.


Here are the compatible signals per the Epson website: https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H930020~faq-0000530-hc5050ub_ube?faq_cat=faq-8796158601292

It should accept 4k/60hz at 4:4:4, 4:2:2:, and 4:2:0 at 8, 10, or 12 bit and should convert it to a 4:2:2 10-bit HDR signal.


----------



## esk1

thekyledaley said:


> I just got my 5050ub today and I can't get it to accept a 18gbps signal as advertised. Both my Xbox One X and Nvidia Shield TV will not allow HDR at 4k 60 hz. I have high speed HDMI cables and have hooked both devices up directly to the back of the projector to help eliminate other variables and it simply won't work. My Xbox "TV display info" page states my display is not compatible with 4k HDR at 60 hz and if I switch my Nvidia Shield TV output settings to 60 hz instead of 24 hz, HDR no longer works, it just outputs SDR. This is the main reason I got this projector and I'm quite disappointment that it's not working as advertised. Is anyone else having this issue? Can anyone else confirm they have had a 4k HDR 60 hz signal work with any device? Could I be missing something? Thanks for your thoughts.




I don't remember what thread but someone posted a picture of the Xbox 1 testing screen and every box but DV checked.


----------



## Gellert1

I am having my 5050ub installed on Wednesday. I too bought it for the 4k 60hz feature. I downloaded the 143 page manual onto my phone. Here's the support info within that manual. It'd be in your best interest to call and speak to a tech rather than waiting on an armchair technician from this forum.

__________________

Speak to a Support Representative
To use the Epson PrivateLine Support service, call (800) 637-7661. This service is available for the
duration of your warranty period. You may also speak with a projector support specialist by dialing (562)
276-4394 (U.S.) or (905) 709-3839 (Canada).
Support hours are 6 AM to 8 PM, Pacific Time, Monday through Friday and 7 AM to 4 PM, Pacific Time,
Saturday.
Days and hours of support are subject to change without notice. Toll or long distance charges may
apply.
Before you call, have the following information ready:
• Product name
• Product serial number (located on the bottom or rear of the projector, or in the menu system)
• Proof of purchase (such as a store receipt) and date of purchase
• Computer or video configuration
• Description of the problem


----------



## DavidK442

Alex Hindman said:


> Seems like an unfair thing to say. He definitely has a vested interest as all dealers do, but to insinuate he is a low quality dealer is irresponsible at best. He had insanely good reviews here in Dallas and from what I hear is super responsive. Just seems like an odd assumption to make without knowing any details.


After having a better look I see that is a sofa with an egregious number of throw pillows and not a bed.
I was mistaken and have called off the arrest warrant. Thanks man.


----------



## thekyledaley

Gellert said:


> I am having my 5050ub installed on Wednesday. I too bought it for the 4k 60hz feature. I downloaded the 143 page manual onto my phone. Here's the support info within that manual. It'd be in your best interest to call and speak to a tech rather than waiting on an armchair technician from this forum.
> 
> __________________
> 
> Speak to a Support Representative
> To use the Epson PrivateLine Support service, call (800) 637-7661. This service is available for the
> duration of your warranty period. You may also speak with a projector support specialist by dialing (562)
> 276-4394 (U.S.) or (905) 709-3839 (Canada).
> Support hours are 6 AM to 8 PM, Pacific Time, Monday through Friday and 7 AM to 4 PM, Pacific Time,
> Saturday.
> Days and hours of support are subject to change without notice. Toll or long distance charges may
> apply.
> Before you call, have the following information ready:
> • Product name
> • Product serial number (located on the bottom or rear of the projector, or in the menu system)
> • Proof of purchase (such as a store receipt) and date of purchase
> • Computer or video configuration
> • Description of the problem


I don't expect anyone here to fix my issue but am just wondering if anyone else has had the same experience or not? Maybe I missed something while trying the understand the capabilities of this projector. You said you got the 5050 for 4k/60 hz, have you tried it 4k/60 hz HDR signal yet and does it work for you?


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Have you tried different cables?


----------



## thekyledaley

MidnightWatcher said:


> Have you tried different cables?


Yeah. I have a couple of different high speed HDMI cables around the house including the one that the Xbox One X came with and none of them help. I even connected each device directly to the projector as to not blame it on my longish HDMI cable run or my receiver.


----------



## thekyledaley

esk1 said:


> I don't remember what thread but someone posted a picture of the Xbox 1 testing screen and every box but DV checked.


I tried to search the forum for anyone else's experience with the 5050 and their xbox one x and couldn't find anything. This is what my xbox is showing:


----------



## esk1

thekyledaley said:


> I tried to search the forum for anyone else's experience with the 5050 and their xbox one x and couldn't find anything. This is what my xbox is showing:




Definitely not what he was showing. It may have been @scottyroo as he got one early.


----------



## scottyroo

esk1 said:


> Definitely not what he was showing. It may have been @scottyroo as he got one early.


I have an Xbox One X and am testing with the 5050UB... all of the boxes except Dolby Vision are ticked on my unit.


----------



## esk1

scottyroo said:


> I have an Xbox One X and am testing with the 5050UB... all of the boxes except Dolby Vision are ticked on my unit.



That its what I remembered you posting, probably in the rumors thread. Just trying to find the evidence to help @*thekyledaley*


----------



## Gellert1

thekyledaley said:


> I don't expect anyone here to fix my issue but am just wondering if anyone else has had the same experience or not? Maybe I missed something while trying the understand the capabilities of this projector. You said you got the 5050 for 4k/60 hz, have you tried it 4k/60 hz HDR signal yet and does it work for you?


As I mentioned, I am having it installed on Wednesday, as in 5 days from now. I read your post and I'm hoping the error you're getting is easily explained. I know the Epson has a dedicated fiber optic HDMI port. I own one and have it ready for my installation and am now wondering if that's how you'd get the 4K 60hz feature to work. I don't know.


----------



## scottyroo

Gellert said:


> As I mentioned, I am having it installed on Wednesday, as in 5 days from now. I read your post and I'm hoping the error you're getting is easily explained. I know the Epson has a dedicated fiber optic HDMI port. I own one and have it ready for my installation and am now wondering if that's how you'd get the 4K 60hz feature to work. I don't know.


The only port that 4KHDR60 will work is HDMI 1.


----------



## Gellert1

Page 18 of the 5050ub's owner's manual states BOTH HDMI ports 1 and 2 are 4KHDR60 compatible.

Owner's manual linked below.

https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56386.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjZptfkv9zhAhURlKwKHfONBiQQFjACegQIBhAG&usg=AOvVaw06xjq1QczzqEbCn1mPsWlo


----------



## MidnightWatcher

TechRadar posted a basic review of the 5050UB:

https://www.techradar.com/reviews/epson-home-cinema-5050ub


----------



## thekyledaley

Hey guys, thanks so much for your input, but I think I figured it out. The projector works fine, it was my fault (as you may have suspected, see the "Newbie" tag below my name).

Basically, when I first set up the projector I wasn't getting any signal so I turned the EDID setting to normal instead of expanded, which gave me video signals from my xbox and Nvidia shield. I wasn't sure what the setting was so I didn't think it was critical for 4kHDR60, but it sure is. So after some trouble shooting, in the end the issue was my HDMI connections and that EDID must be left to expanded. My connections go XBox-receiver-short cable to HDMI keystone jack-30 ft HDMI cable-another HDMI keystone jack to another short cable to my projector. I figured out that my 2 keystone jacks were limiting me from getting the full signal. They worked fine with 4k60 signals and my 5040 but I guess the signal from a full 4kHDR60 signal was just too much for them to handle. I will have to cut holes in my wall plates and use the extra slack in my 30 ft HDMI cable to connect directly from my receiver to my projector and bypass 2 keystone jacks and the short cable runs. It won't look quite as pretty but at least it will work!

Thanks again for your thoughts and I'm off to enjoy my awesome new projector.


----------



## scottyroo

Gellert said:


> As I mentioned, I am having it installed on Wednesday, as in 5 days from now. I read your post and I'm hoping the error you're getting is easily explained. I know the Epson has a dedicated fiber optic HDMI port. I own one and have it ready for my installation and am now wondering if that's how you'd get the 4K 60hz feature to work. I don't know.


The only port that 4KHDR60 will work is HDMI 1.


----------



## Luminated67

Gellert said:


> Page 18 of the 5050ub's owner's manual states BOTH HDMI ports 1 and 2 are 4KHDR60 compatible.
> 
> Owner's manual linked below.
> 
> https://files.support.epson.com/doc...FjACegQIBhAG&usg=AOvVaw06xjq1QczzqEbCn1mPsWlo


Yep both HDMI are the same


----------



## scottyroo

thekyledaley said:


> Hey guys, thanks so much for your input, but I think I figured it out. The projector works fine, it was my fault (as you may have suspected, see the "Newbie" tag below my name).
> 
> 
> 
> Basically, when I first set up the projector I wasn't getting any signal so I turned the EDID setting to normal instead of expanded, which gave me video signals from my xbox and Nvidia shield. I wasn't sure what the setting was so I didn't think it was critical for 4kHDR60, but it sure is. So after some trouble shooting, in the end the issue was my HDMI connections and that EDID must be left to expanded. My connections go XBox-receiver-short cable to HDMI keystone jack-30 ft HDMI cable-another HDMI keystone jack to another short cable to my projector. I figured out that my 2 keystone jacks were limiting me from getting the full signal. I will have to cut holes in my wall plates and use the extra slack in my 30 ft HDMI cable to connect directly from my receiver to my projector and bypass 2 keystone jacks and the short cable runs. It won't look quite as pretty but at least it will work!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your thoughts and I'm off to enjoy my awesome new projector.


 @Alaric’s setting have EDID as normal. I would recommend always staying in expanded since normal only supports 10gbps. @Alaric is there a reason you have EDID set to normal in your settings?


----------



## vadergr

A nice video showcasing the internals of the european equivalent. 


https://youtu.be/5iqj5rn7Wo0


----------



## Alaric

scottyroo said:


> @Alaric’s setting have EDID as normal. I would recommend always staying in expanded since normal only supports 10gbps. @Alaric is there a reason you have EDID set to normal in your settings?


I'm not running a pc / Xbox etc, just a couple of bluray players and just listed my settings! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## jnation

thekyledaley said:


> Here are the compatible signals per the Epson website: https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H930020~faq-0000530-hc5050ub_ube?faq_cat=faq-8796158601292
> It should accept 4k/60hz at 4:4:4, 4:2:2:, and 4:2:0 at 8, 10, or 12 bit and should convert it to a 4:2:2 10-bit HDR signal.


 So I see from your additional posts that you have fixed your issue but I am somewhat confused/intrigued regarding what Epson claims it supports and what signal you are actually sending? 

I say this because according to the CEDIA and the HDMI Org presentation (slide 44) sources 1 linked below, a 4K/60 4:4:4 10-bit and 12-bit source require a data rate of 20.05Gbps and 24.06Gbps respectively, significantly greater than the HDMI 2.0 spec of 18Gbps. So are the new HDMI interfaces on the Epson 5050UB actually capable of exceeding this 18Gbps limit, i.e. are they technically supporting the low end data rates for HDMI 2.1, even if as Epson note they convert internally to 4:2:2 10-bit. Interested minds want to know 

http://community.cedia.net/blogs/david-meyer/2018/05/16/hdmi-data-rates-for-4k-hdr
https://hdmiforum.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/HDMI-Forum-2.1-November-Release-Presentation-EN.pdf


----------



## Luminated67

jnation said:


> So I see from your additional posts that you have fixed your issue but I am somewhat confused/intrigued regarding what Epson claims it supports and what signal you are actually sending?
> 
> I say this because according to the CEDIA and the HDMI Org presentation (slide 44) sources 1 linked below, a 4K/60 4:4:4 10-bit and 12-bit source require a data rate of 20.05Gbps and 24.06Gbps respectively, significantly greater than the HDMI 2.0 spec of 18Gbps. So are the new HDMI interfaces on the Epson 5050UB actually capable of exceeding this 18Gbps limit, i.e. are they technically supporting the low end data rates for HDMI 2.1, even if as Epson note they convert internally to 4:2:2 10-bit. Interested minds want to know
> 
> http://community.cedia.net/blogs/david-meyer/2018/05/16/hdmi-data-rates-for-4k-hdr
> https://hdmiforum.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/HDMI-Forum-2.1-November-Release-Presentation-EN.pdf


Hopefully this will help

https://www.projectorpoint.co.uk/imagelibrary/projectors/epson/eh-tw9400/epson_eh-tw9400-manual.pdf










Only 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 8bit.


----------



## Gellert1

jnation said:


> So I see from your additional posts that you have fixed your issue but I am somewhat confused/intrigued regarding what Epson claims it supports and what signal you are actually sending?
> 
> I say this because according to the CEDIA and the HDMI Org presentation (slide 44) sources 1 linked below, a 4K/60 4:4:4 10-bit and 12-bit source require a data rate of 20.05Gbps and 24.06Gbps respectively, significantly greater than the HDMI 2.0 spec of 18Gbps. So are the new HDMI interfaces on the Epson 5050UB actually capable of exceeding this 18Gbps limit, i.e. are they technically supporting the low end data rates for HDMI 2.1, even if as Epson note they convert internally to 4:2:2 10-bit. Interested minds want to know
> 
> http://community.cedia.net/blogs/david-meyer/2018/05/16/hdmi-data-rates-for-4k-hdr
> https://hdmiforum.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/HDMI-Forum-2.1-November-Release-Presentation-EN.pdf


It's my assumption that those 20/24 GPS speeds are the MAXIMUM and that combined video/audio signals rarely reach close to those specs in real-world viewing.


----------



## jnation

Luminated67 said:


> Hopefully this will help
> 
> https://www.projectorpoint.co.uk/imagelibrary/projectors/epson/eh-tw9400/epson_eh-tw9400-manual.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 8bit.


Thanks for posting. For comparison see the attached image below from the HC5050UB User Guide which is consistent with the US Epson support page linked earlier by the other poster. The European version of the guide shows no support for 10/12-bit HDR, the US version does quite explicitly. Maybe just a typo, although that would be a pretty big one, or maybe Epson has used the delay before the US launch to update the HDMI interface, which might be relatively straightforward if a pin compatible drop in replacement chip has become production worthy in the interim?


----------



## Luminated67

jnation said:


> Thanks for posting. For comparison see the attached image below from the HC5050UB User Guide which is consistent with the US Epson support page linked earlier by the other poster. The European version of the guide shows no support for 10/12-bit HDR, the US version does quite explicitly. Maybe just a typo, although that would be a pretty big one, or maybe Epson has used the delay before the US launch to update the HDMI interface, which might be relatively straightforward if a pin compatible drop in replacement chip has become production worthy in the interim?


I’d be surprised if there’s a difference between them with regards to this at least. Might be a typo.


----------



## VideoDrone

Liquid$team said:


> ugh Im so glad I found this post. I also have an 8500ub and I am thinking about upgrading to the 5050. I couldn't be happier with the 8500. Ran perfect for 9 years now and still going strong. Technically it's on it's 3rd lamp but I never reset lamp hours so I don't actually know how many hours are on the 8500 itself.
> 
> I can't wait to hear from you specifically on the upgrade. Differences? ect. I use the lens shift on the 8500 through 4 different screen to line everything up and I loved it. I'm sure it will be even cooler with powered shifting. Looking forward to read your thoughts. Thanks


Another 8500ub owner ask me about the upgrade so I will give my opinion on that and other general things I noticed. 



First I lived with my 8500ub for 8-9 years also, when they first came out also and even recently I’ve had people comment on how good the picture was. So in summary as much as I loved my 8500ub, this thing is in another league, this upgrade was equivalent to when I upgraded my Infocus 5700 to Epson 8500ub, night and day better. BTW, why did Infocus drop the ball on PJ development?



This PJ is should I dare say, maybe too bright? My screen is 110”. Even in Eco mode this thing is a light cannon.



The contrast and punch in the picture even with boring old 1080p is incredible.



It is really quiet in eco and medium brightness. 



With medium brightness I can easily get a good punchy picture with my 8 -10 CAN lights on in the large room. I haven’t even tried Bright mode, I might go blind..lol



The 4k 60hz HDR from my Roku just rocks. So on the Roku is the aquarium screen saver and it just looks so good, I mean so good, I find myself watching that for fun, the fish are 3D like. So for comparison on the 8500ub if you look at the moray eel in the cave, there is really no shadow detail at all and I never noticed it until I got the 5050ub



Out the box colors and setting are good/great IMHO, but I’ll let you obsessive types find the ultimate settings, please post, thank you for your effort…smile





Negatives:



Size, its big beast but it is sleek, kind of a big sexy! 



Switching back from watching 4k HDR content back to say Netflix menu, there is a delay 4-5 seconds, but I didn’t measure its noticiable.



What I didn’t like is when I first turned on the PJ it was way out of focus, so I could see the on screen meu, and of course I don’t read manuals, so it took me a minute to figure out how to use the LENS button.


----------



## Liquid$team

Videodrone.... much appreciated review/comparison coming from the same projector as me. B&H finally got some in recently but went on passover holiday hours so can't order yet.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

Just unboxed my Panasonic UB 820. Wow, this thing reeks of quality and feels very nice. It’s large and has a weight to it that none of my past players have had. I have never owned an Oppo or anything fancy before but I can’t wait to try this out with the Epson 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Liquid$team

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Just unboxed my Panasonic UB 820. Wow, this thing reeks and feels very nice. It’s large and has a weight to it that none of my past players have had. I have never owned an Oppo or anything fancy before but I can’t wait to try this out with the Epson
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


It reeks? lol

I actually was thinking (I just opened mine last week or so) how light weight it was for $500! I appreciate the small form factor though as I have some smaller shelves available in my AV "racks" and it will fit right in. As I started updating my home theater this year I quickly realized I was running out of space.


----------



## jnation

Luminated67 said:


> I’d be surprised if there’s a difference between them with regards to this at least. Might be a typo.


Yeah I'd be surprised too. It would certainly be interesting if someone with a HC5050UB, a PC used to force the video output and a nice, short Premium Certified cable could test for 4K/60P 4:4:4 10-bit and if successful then 12-bit. Occam's razor suggests a typo, but boy given the amount of time Epson have had to update the HC5040UB User Guide and the minimal changes between the two models, one major one being the HDMI performance, one would have to wonder how that would be possible.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



Liquid$team said:


> It reeks? lol
> 
> 
> 
> I actually was thinking (I just opened mine last week or so) how light weight it was for $500! I appreciate the small form factor though as I have some smaller shelves available in my AV "racks" and it will fit right in. As I started updating my home theater this year I quickly realized I was running out of space.




Well I couldn’t find the HDR optimizer anywhere in the menu and searched in every sub menu....and I have the older DMP 900. So they put the wrong player in my UB820 box. Oh well another trip back to Best Buy. Still a great player but lacks the one feature I desire. 
“

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## m0j0

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Well I couldn’t find the HDR optimizer anywhere in the menu and searched in every sub menu....and I have the older DMP 900. So they put the wrong player in my UB820 box. Oh well another trip back to Best Buy. Still a great player but lacks the one feature I desire.
> “
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, if you got a 900 in an 820 box, definitely exchange it. The 900 doesn’t do tone mapping.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

m0j0 said:


> Yeah, if you got a 900 in an 820 box, definitely exchange it. The 900 doesn’t do tone mapping.




I will say it’s the best this Epson has looked with the tone mapping built in. Watching the Incredible Hulk and the HDR is amazing the colors the black levels I can’t stop saying oh my. The final scene has such great spectral highlights popping out of the darkness. I’m truly in love and I had to back the HDR slider to 9. I can’t wait for the new player as it will retain detail in some of the explosions which do get blown out a bit. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

hnupe said:


> Soooooo, is it worth it to upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050?
> 
> Thanks


Just do it. You will not regret. The picture is sharper . Blacks are darker and HDR is better than any custom curves achieved in 18 months with my 5040. I have the Epson 5050ub paired with the Panasonic ub820 and the combination takes HDR to OLED levels IMHO. I am blown away.


----------



## skylarlove1999

hnupe said:


> nickoakdl said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for this too. I've yet to see anyone who has upgraded from the 5040 to the 5050. As a 5040 owner, I am very happy with it, but I also get the upgrade bug very easily. Part of me wonders if Epson eventually releases a completely different model in the next year or so that is true 4k. The 5040 quickly got caught up with by cheaper DLPs (both with their own pros/cons obviously) and the 5050 is basically the same projector but with a software update and better HDMIs. I can't imagine that Epson is content on being the last to offer true 4k.
> 
> 
> 
> LOL...still have not heard anyone say one way or the other? Wonder if the price difference is worth it.
Click to expand...

I loved my 5040 even though I owned two in less than 18 months. Both had power supply issues. Epson took some convincing but they replaced my last failed 5040 with a 5050. There is a noticeable difference in sharpness resolution and black levels, all in favor of the 5050. HDR is comparable to my OLED. I know I cannot believe I wrote that sentence either but it is unequivocally true. 18 months with custom curves and having my 5040 calibrated by Jeff Meier of Accucal AV and the 5050 beat it right out of the box. Frankly when Epson sent me the 5050 my intention was to sell it and buy a JVC Rs2000/NX7. I had seen one at a local dealer and HDR was outstanding. IMHO the 5050 does HDR as well. I will be keeping my 5050. Paired with Panasonic ub820 and I am blown away. Pictures don't do it justice but here you go.


----------



## skylarlove1999

gene4ht said:


> hnupe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Soooooo, is it worth it to upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nickoakdl said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for this too. I've yet to see anyone who has upgraded from the 5040 to the 5050. As a 5040 owner, I am very happy with it, but I also get the upgrade bug very easily. Part of me wonders if Epson eventually releases a completely different model in the next year or so that is true 4k. The 5040 quickly got caught up with by cheaper DLPs (both with their own pros/cons obviously) and the 5050 is basically the same projector but with a software update and better HDMIs. I can't imagine that Epson is content on being the last to offer true 4k.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> For me personally....without getting into specs and capability debates...for the $1000 differential...absolutely not...for a $500 differential...maybe...for a $250 differential...probably. Bottom line, I'm completely happy with the 5040 as my use case is 100% movies...no gaming. The extra 100 lumens is negligible in a light controlled room. IMO, the $1000 is better spent/utilized upgrading other components in the system...receiver, amp, Atmos, speakers, subwoofer, 4K UHD Player, streaming device, etc. Of course, YMMV.
Click to expand...

Have you demo'd the 5050? I consider you to be quite a knowledgeable home theater enthusiast and usually you seem to prefer real world experience as opposed to quoting specs. Many people will respect your opinion and make a decision based upon what you recommend. I think your opinion should be based on real world viewing experience not just reading specs on paper. Just my two cents. I have had both the 5040 and 5050 in my theater in the last two weeks. Real viewing experience the 5050 is clearly the superior projector in every respect. IMHO it is definitely worth the $1000 . Paying interest free over 24 months compared to the 5040 the difference is $1.35 a day. Definitely way worth an extra $1.35 a day.


----------



## VideoDrone

*Question for other 5050ub Owner*

I am using Digital Cinema, color profile and I LOVE it, I can't believe this out the box with no tweaking! Is anybody using anything else? Anybody tried those European setting? 

It will be interesting when the in-depth reviews start coming out, I can't believe I was even considering a comp priced DLP....sharper maybe?, better NO way!


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

VideoDrone said:


> I am using Digital Cinema, color profile and I LOVE it, I can't believe this out the box with no tweaking! Is anybody using anything else? Anybody tried those European setting?
> 
> 
> 
> It will be interesting when the in-depth reviews start coming out, I can't believe I was even considering a comp priced DLP....sharper maybe?, better NO way!




I am using the Euro settings for digital cinema with contrast at 75 and HDR slider at 9 for The Incredible Hulk. I used it at 6 for Jurassic World Fallen Kingdom. Iris is set to off as mine causes the projector to need to be reset waiting on a replacement. ECO mode is used. 

I use s the Natural setting for Blu-ray and it’s mind blowing. Here are some shots of the Hulk and Iron Man 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rbk123 said:


> hnupe said:
> 
> 
> 
> LOL...still have not heard anyone say one way or the other? Wonder if the price difference is worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> No. IMO it is more to entice those who didn’t want to upgrade to the 5040 because of the power supply fear.
Click to expand...

Have you owned either of the projectors? If you haven't it is certainly worth mentioning in your post just to give a full depth to your opinion. I do believe my own eyes having owned the 5040 for 18 months and the 5050 for 5 days. The picture on the 5050 is improved in every area contrast detail resolution black level and overall brightness. HDR is a night and day difference in my black velvet zero light room.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> VideoDrone said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am using Digital Cinema, color profile and I LOVE it, I can't believe this out the box with no tweaking! Is anybody using anything else? Anybody tried those European setting?
> 
> 
> 
> It will be interesting when the in-depth reviews start coming out, I can't believe I was even considering a comp priced DLP....sharper maybe?, better NO way!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am using the Euro settings for digital cinema with contrast at 75 and HDR slider at 9 for The Incredible Hulk. I used it at 6 for Jurassic World Fallen Kingdom. Iris is set to off as mine causes the projector to need to be reset waiting on a replacement. ECO mode is used.
> 
> I use s the Natural setting for Blu-ray and it’s mind blowing. Here are some shots of the Hulk and Iron Man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Finally someone who actually owns a projector like I do and is as blown away as I am. Quite frankly little tired of reading post about people who never owned either the 5040 or the 5050 saying that it couldn't possibly be worth the extra $1,000. Having own both of them it is certainly worth the extra $1,000. I'm all for people who have differing opinions and having an intelligent discussion about them because everybody's eyesight is different everybody's preferences different and everybody's room conditions are different but if you honestly haven't seen either projector or if only seen one or the other how could I take your opinion seriously.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Sorry about reposting the pictures. I apologize in advance.


----------



## skylarlove1999

VideoDrone said:


> Got mine today, and installed in my custom box I modified (Ikea no less) in less than 3 minutes. Forget mounts. LOVE the auto lens setup. I upgraded from an 8500ub and i was in a trance just watching 1080p content for the first 30 minutes. Fired up my Roku Ultra and 4kHDR is stunning. Next up last is my CIH screen upgrade and I am done! Back to the watching my new 110" OLED I mean PJ!


I couldn't agree more with you I definitely agree it is like watching a a 120 in OLED


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidK442 said:


> Liquid$team said:
> 
> 
> 
> take it for what its worth as it appears to be a dealer who would have a vested interest in selling new units.
> 
> https://youtu.be/Jr4JpVBJkGk
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like some dude in his bedroom who is about to sell a few projectors once they "fall" off the back of a truck. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

Seems like quite an irresponsible thing to post on AVS Forum from somebody who's considered a senior member I believe. The gentleman who posted the video was just trying to give a first impression of the 5040 versus the 5050. The owner of the business posted the video is a reputable business and does a great job with installations from all the reviews I've read on his website I think you owe that man an apology.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Liquid$team said:
> 
> 
> 
> It reeks? lol
> 
> 
> 
> I actually was thinking (I just opened mine last week or so) how light weight it was for $500! I appreciate the small form factor though as I have some smaller shelves available in my AV "racks" and it will fit right in. As I started updating my home theater this year I quickly realized I was running out of space.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well I couldn’t find the HDR optimizer anywhere in the menu and searched in every sub menu....and I have the older DMP 900. So they put the wrong player in my UB820 box. Oh well another trip back to Best Buy. Still a great player but lacks the one feature I desire.
> “
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That is why you thought it was built so nice because it was the ub900 LOL instead of ub820. Ub820 is a great player and I absolutely love it I think it was better and is way better and video and audio performance then my Oppo 203 but it was not built like the Oppo 203 the ub9000 which costs a whole lot more than a ub820 is built like that Oppo 203 and the ub900


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> That is why you thought it was built so nice because it was the ub900 LOL instead of ub820. Ub820 is a great player and I absolutely love it I think it was better and is way better and video and audio performance then my Oppo 203 but it was not built like the Oppo 203 the ub9000 which costs a whole lot more than a ub820 is built like that Oppo 203 and the ub900




Is the 820 worth getting now? Im blown away as is with the Epsons HDR. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That is why you thought it was built so nice because it was the ub900 LOL instead of ub820. Ub820 is a great player and I absolutely love it I think it was better and is way better and video and audio performance then my Oppo 203 but it was not built like the Oppo 203 the ub9000 which costs a whole lot more than a ub820 is built like that Oppo 203 and the ub900
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the 820 worth getting now? Im blown away as is with the Epsons HDR.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I certainly think it is IMHO. The Panasonic ub820 brings out the best in the Epson 5050 by raising the brightness without lowering your black levels. The detail in shadow and in spectral highlights are an improvement over just the 5050 IMO . I prefer the panny 820 without the optimizer on speaking about the optimizer on the panny 820, slider on the 5050ub set to 6 using Natural picture mode auto Iris off medium power consumption with preset picture mode set to off. I was watching Star Trek Into Darkness 4k Disc and with the optimizer on I felt that the actors faces were softer and less detailed to the increased brightness. With the optimizer turned off the faces were more detailed and the outlines of the faces were much more crisp. Still brilliant dynamic range so that spectral highlights were still plenty detailed and vivid. Braveheart 4k is another where the daylight scenes where there is shadows and beams of lighting peaking through were like being outside in those real world conditions. Honestly I have watched that movie 5 times in its entirety just in the 4k format and it was like watching it for the first time.


----------



## dimi123

skylarlove1999 said:


> I do believe my own eyes having owned the 5040 for 18 months and the 5050 for 5 days. The picture on the 5050 is improved in every area contrast detail resolution black level and overall brightness. HDR is a night and day difference in my black velvet zero light room.


I can understand your excitement with a new projector, but let's be honest it's basically the same projector as the 5040. Any perceived differences in brightness, contrast and black level are probably due to the software and not the hardware. When calibrated they measure exactly the same. The only meaningful additions are the 18Gbps chipset and the HDR slider. The HDR slider is really convenient for novices, but you can achieve the same result with custom gamma curves.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dimi123 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I do believe my own eyes having owned the 5040 for 18 months and the 5050 for 5 days. The picture on the 5050 is improved in every area contrast detail resolution black level and overall brightness. HDR is a night and day difference in my black velvet zero light room.
> 
> 
> 
> I can understand your excitement with a new projector, but let's be honest it's basically the same projector as the 5040. Any perceived differences in brightness, contrast and black level are probably due to the software and not the hardware. When calibrated they measure exactly the same. The only meaningful additions are the 18Gbps chipset and the HDR slider. The HDR slider is really convenient for novices, but you can achieve the same result with custom gamma curves.
Click to expand...

Would you consider Jeff Meier from Accucal AV a novice since he calibrated my 5040? The picture is better than my calibrated 5040 .Have you taken both projectors apart to compare their internal parts? Do you work for Epson and have access to the software changes that were made? Would you consider Art Feierman from projectorreviews.com a novice because he is quoted as saying HDR performance on the 5050ub is significantly better than anything he achieved in two years of custom curves with the Epson 5040? I understand some people just want to have an opinion even if it not based upon an actual real world experience. Arm chair quarterbacks always call the right play at the right time but never step out on the field. I will continue to actually pick up the football and play. Much more fun that way.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> I certainly think it is IMHO. The Panasonic ub820 brings out the best in the Epson 5050 by raising the brightness without lowering your black levels. The detail in shadow and in spectral highlights are an improvement over just the 5050 IMO . I prefer the panny 820 without the optimizer on speaking about the optimizer on the panny 820, slider on the 5050ub set to 6 using Natural picture mode auto Iris off medium power consumption with preset picture mode set to off. I was watching Star Trek Into Darkness 4k Disc and with the optimizer on I felt that the actors faces were softer and less detailed to the increased brightness. With the optimizer turned off the faces were more detailed and the outlines of the faces were much more crisp. Still brilliant dynamic range so that spectral highlights were still plenty detailed and vivid. Braveheart 4k is another where the daylight scenes where there is shadows and beams of lighting peaking through were like being outside in those real world conditions. Honestly I have watched that movie 5 times in its entirety just in the 4k format and it was like watching it for the first time.




So get the UB820 but do not use the optimizer? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I certainly think it is IMHO. The Panasonic ub820 brings out the best in the Epson 5050 by raising the brightness without lowering your black levels. The detail in shadow and in spectral highlights are an improvement over just the 5050 IMO . I prefer the panny 820 without the optimizer on speaking about the optimizer on the panny 820, slider on the 5050ub set to 6 using Natural picture mode auto Iris off medium power consumption with preset picture mode set to off. I was watching Star Trek Into Darkness 4k Disc and with the optimizer on I felt that the actors faces were softer and less detailed to the increased brightness. With the optimizer turned off the faces were more detailed and the outlines of the faces were much more crisp. Still brilliant dynamic range so that spectral highlights were still plenty detailed and vivid. Braveheart 4k is another where the daylight scenes where there is shadows and beams of lighting peaking through were like being outside in those real world conditions. Honestly I have watched that movie 5 times in its entirety just in the 4k format and it was like watching it for the first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So get the UB820 but do not use the optimizer?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You should get it and decide for yourself on the optimizer. Even without the optimizer IMO theirs is a discernible difference in HDR as I detailed in my earlier post. Of course watching 4k disc is going to give better video and audio than streaming . Still the upconversion of bluray to 4K by the panny 820 gives a very comparative experience to actual 4k discs as long as the source material is of high quality. Skyfall on bluray would be a great example where the upconversion brings out all the detail in all the various settings throughout the movie. I rented Glass on bluray last night which was obviously shot on digital and the razor sharp picture of true 4k was present on the upconversion. You can always return it if you don't feel the same way after your real world viewing experience although I highly doubt you will.


----------



## dimi123

skylarlove1999 said:


> Would you consider Jeff Meier from Accucal AV a novice since he calibrated my 5040? The picture is better than my calibrated 5040 .Have you taken both projectors apart to compare their internal parts? Do you work for Epson and have access to the software changes that were made? Would you consider Art Feierman from projectorreviews.com a novice because he is quoted as saying HDR performance on the 5050ub is significantly better than anything he achieved in two years of custom curves with the Epson 5040? I understand some people just want to have an opinion even if it not based upon an actual real world experience. Arm chair quarterbacks always call the right play at the right time but never step out on the field. I will continue to actually pick up the football and play. Much more fun that way.


Opinions are opinions that's why I go by measurements and the 9400/5050 measures almost exactly as the 9300/5040.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> You should get it and decide for yourself on the optimizer. Even without the optimizer IMO theirs is a discernible difference in HDR as I detailed in my earlier post. Of course watching 4k disc is going to give better video and audio than streaming . Still the upconversion of bluray to 4K by the panny 820 gives a very comparative experience to actual 4k discs as long as the source material is of high quality. Skyfall on bluray would be a great example where the upconversion brings out all the detail in all the various settings throughout the movie. I rented Glass on bluray last night which was obviously shot on digital and the razor sharp picture of true 4k was present on the upconversion. You can always return it if you don't feel the same way after your real world viewing experience although I highly doubt you will.


I understand, I just was not aware there was a huge difference in the player from the Panasonic DMP 900 other than the optimizer.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You should get it and decide for yourself on the optimizer. Even without the optimizer IMO theirs is a discernible difference in HDR as I detailed in my earlier post. Of course watching 4k disc is going to give better video and audio than streaming . Still the upconversion of bluray to 4K by the panny 820 gives a very comparative experience to actual 4k discs as long as the source material is of high quality. Skyfall on bluray would be a great example where the upconversion brings out all the detail in all the various settings throughout the movie. I rented Glass on bluray last night which was obviously shot on digital and the razor sharp picture of true 4k was present on the upconversion. You can always return it if you don't feel the same way after your real world viewing experience although I highly doubt you will.
> 
> 
> 
> I understand, I just was not aware there was a huge difference in the player from the Panasonic DMP 900 other than the optimizer.
Click to expand...

I don't believe the 900 allows you to choose your source and set the nits by choosing you know projector / low LCD I also don't remember on the 900 if there was a ability when you click on the HTR button actually I don't think there is one on 900 to choose your room conditions basically I think those two features on the ub820 make a difference in my opinion keep in mind I have never viewed anything through the 900


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> I don't believe the 900 allows you to choose your source and set the nits by choosing you know projector / low LCD I also don't remember on the 900 if there was a ability when you click on the HTR button actually I don't think there is one on 900 to choose your room conditions basically I think those two features on the ub820 make a difference in my opinion keep in mind I have never viewed anything through the 900


No it does not, but does function matter if the optimizer is not being used? I believe that is part of the optimizes feature but I could be wrong as I do not have the manual.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dimi123 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Would you consider Jeff Meier from Accucal AV a novice since he calibrated my 5040? The picture is better than my calibrated 5040 .Have you taken both projectors apart to compare their internal parts? Do you work for Epson and have access to the software changes that were made? Would you consider Art Feierman from projectorreviews.com a novice because he is quoted as saying HDR performance on the 5050ub is significantly better than anything he achieved in two years of custom curves with the Epson 5040? I understand some people just want to have an opinion even if it not based upon an actual real world experience. Arm chair quarterbacks always call the right play at the right time but never step out on the field. I will continue to actually pick up the football and play. Much more fun that way.
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions are opinions that's why I go by measurements and the 9400/5050 measures almost exactly as the 9300/5040.
Click to expand...

Since you're all about specs and measurements instead of opinions which even a professional review is just an opinion, by actual people who own the projector, what projector do you own and why.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't believe the 900 allows you to choose your source and set the nits by choosing you know projector / low LCD I also don't remember on the 900 if there was a ability when you click on the HTR button actually I don't think there is one on 900 to choose your room conditions basically I think those two features on the ub820 make a difference in my opinion keep in mind I have never viewed anything through the 900
> 
> 
> 
> No it does not, but does function matter if the optimizer is not being used? I believe that is part of the optimizes feature but I could be wrong as I do not have the manual.
Click to expand...

With the various settings on the 900 you may be able to fine tune it where you achieve a similar level of HDR performance I believe the 820 offers even without the optimizer but I think it would require time effort and skill. I am in short supply of all three with my wife and two small children using up my supply of those three LOL. I haven't really explored the 820 Epson combo as much as I would like. I still may find the optimizer useful upon further tinkering. I have also not tried the Epson 5050ub with a less expensive player. Maybe using all the settings on the 5050ub with a less expensive 4K player might achieve the same unbelievable picture quality I have witnessed over the last five days. I am just overjoyed to have a projector/4k player combo that finally rivals my LG OLED television. Since it so much bigger than my 55 inch OLED the experience is that much more immersive. I wish you the best of luck with your experimenting.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Finally someone who actually owns a projector like I do and is as blown away as I am. Quite frankly little tired of reading post about people who never owned either the 5040 or the 5050 saying that it couldn't possibly be worth the extra $1,000. Having own both of them it is certainly worth the extra $1,000. I'm all for people who have differing opinions and having an intelligent discussion about them because everybody's eyesight is different everybody's preferences different and everybody's room conditions are different but if you honestly haven't seen either projector or if only seen one or the other how could I take your opinion seriously.


I’m pretty sure myself and @Alaric have been BIGGING IT UP about this projector for quite some time. 

Very few projectors can genuinely be considered an alternative to a JVC and this is definitely one of them.


----------



## ezelkow1

Well she's a beast, comparison shot to my 5020


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Finally someone who actually owns a projector like I do and is as blown away as I am. Quite frankly little tired of reading post about people who never owned either the 5040 or the 5050 saying that it couldn't possibly be worth the extra $1,000. Having own both of them it is certainly worth the extra $1,000. I'm all for people who have differing opinions and having an intelligent discussion about them because everybody's eyesight is different everybody's preferences different and everybody's room conditions are different but if you honestly haven't seen either projector or if only seen one or the other how could I take your opinion seriously.
> 
> 
> 
> I’m pretty sure myself and @Alaric have been BIGGING IT UP about this projector for quite some time. /forum/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif
> 
> Very few projectors can genuinely be considered an alternative to a JVC and this is definitely one of them.
Click to expand...

Yes you and Alaric certainly have and thank you for that. I guess it was just some of the more recent posts from forum members squinting at computer and uttering " all the measurements are the same as the 5040" without having viewed either the 5050 or the 5040 was driving me a wee bit mad. You and Alaric made me genuinely excited before my 5050 arrived so thanks again. I agree 100% that the 5050 can truly compete with the new true 4k projectors and at this price point to boot. Truly amazing projector.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ezelkow1 said:


> Well she's a beast, comparison shot to my 5020


Thanks for posting that. I forgot how small my 5030 was. LOL.


----------



## dimi123

skylarlove1999 said:


> Since you're all about specs and measurements instead of opinions which even a professional review is just an opinion, by actual people who own the projector, what projector do you own and why.


I own a TW9300W and a TW9300 and couldn't be happier. I'm saying that the 5050/9400 is a great projector, just as the 5040/9300, but you make it sound as if they are two totally different projectors. The 5050 is basically the same projector with a few software tweaks and 18Gbps capability.


----------



## Luminated67

ezelkow1 said:


> Well she's a beast, comparison shot to my 5020


Kind of reminds me of Dr Evil and MiniMe.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dimi123 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Since you're all about specs and measurements instead of opinions which even a professional review is just an opinion, by actual people who own the projector, what projector do you own and why.
> 
> 
> 
> I own a TW9300W and a TW9300 and couldn't be happier. I'm saying that the 5050/9400 is a great projector, just as the 5040/9300, but you make it sound as if they are two totally different projectors. The 5050 is basically the same projector with a few software tweaks and 18Gbps capability.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your honesty. I get it now. You can't upgrade yet and you are trying to justify not upgrading by any means necessary. Now your interest in this thread and the tone of your posts make a lote more sense. Once again thanks for your honesty. If you ever want to bring your projector over to my theater and I will invite local forum members and they can decide which one they would rather have in their theater let me know. I am about an hour outside of Philadelphia.


----------



## dimi123

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thanks for your honesty. I get it now. You can't upgrade yet and you are trying to justify not upgrading by any means necessary. Now your interest in this thread and the tone of your posts make a lote more sense. Once again thanks for your honesty. If you ever want to bring your projector over to my theater and I will invite local forum members and they can decide which one they would rather have in their theater let me know. I am about an hour outside of Philadelphia.


I would never upgrade from a 5040 to a 5050, as I do not game on my projectors and HDR is plenty bright with a custom curve in Digital Cinema mode. My next upgrade will be to a native 4K Epson PJ.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dimi123 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your honesty. I get it now. You can't upgrade yet and you are trying to justify not upgrading by any means necessary. Now your interest in this thread and the tone of your posts make a lote more sense. Once again thanks for your honesty. If you ever want to bring your projector over to my theater and I will invite local forum members and they can decide which one they would rather have in their theater let me know. I am about an hour outside of Philadelphia.
> 
> 
> 
> I would never upgrade from a 5040 to a 5050, as I do not game on my projectors and HDR is plenty bright with a custom curve in Digital Cinema mode. My next upgrade will be to a native 4K Epson PJ.
Click to expand...

Well IMHO you are missing out but as long as you are happy that is the most important part of this hobby. Having owned both I could never go back to the 5040 custom gamma curves or not. Like you I agree that a Native 4K Epson Laser projector will be my next projector. Unfortunately for all of us that is probably at least two years away and maybe never. Epson understands the part of the market that buys their projectors and the price point to get Native 4K and Laser isn't really in their customer demographics base. They would have to grab that market share from Sony and know JVC and both of their diehard fans are very anti- Epson. So I am not waiting around for a projector from Epson that may never come.


----------



## dimi123

skylarlove1999 said:


> Well IMHO you are missing out but as long as you are happy that is the most important part of this hobby. Having owned both I could never go back to the 5040 custom gamma curves or not. Like you I agree that a Native 4K Epson Laser projector will be my next projector. Unfortunately for all of us that is probably at least two years away and maybe never. Epson understands the part of the market that buys their projectors and the price point to get Native 4K and Laser isn't really in their customer demographics base. They would have to grab that market share from Sony and know JVC and both of their diehard fans are very anti- Epson. So I am not waiting around for a projector from Epson that may never come.


Maybe not laser but a lamp based native 4K projector should be the logical progression for Epson in 2 years time. There's not much more they can do with the current e-shift line as evidenced by the minor improvement of this year's model. :wink:


----------



## ezelkow1

just some quick pics using our planet as a reference. My setup is just a lower level family room but we have large panel blackouts on the sliding back window and enough curtain coverage. So this is with some daylight still coming in from the floor above, perfectly usable during the day, and the room is much better at night when we use the projector like 95% of the time anyway. Did a few quick tests with infinity wars as well and looks damn nice

Also I dont see the issue that @scottyroo was seeing where it doesnt automatically engage HDR. It works just fine both with my shield using kodi/netflix, and on my xfinity box when using netflix. Gets the HDR10 signal info, see the pj blank, check info and its flipped to HDR mode and the slider is available and remembers the last position

This is also pre any tweaks at all. Ive only tried flipping between bright cinema and natural modes and havent tried any of Alaric's settings yet and it already looks great compared to the 5020, then again I am coming from a 2500hr bulb, though we have been using it on high and right now Im running the 5050 at medium power


----------



## scottyroo

ezelkow1 said:


> just some quick pics using our planet as a reference. My setup is just a lower level family room but we have large panel blackouts on the sliding back window and enough curtain coverage. So this is with some daylight still coming in from the floor above, perfectly usable during the day, and the room is much better at night when we use the projector like 95% of the time anyway. Did a few quick tests with infinity wars as well and looks damn nice
> 
> 
> 
> Also I dont see the issue that @scottyroo was seeing where it doesnt automatically engage HDR. It works just fine both with my shield using kodi/netflix, and on my xfinity box when using netflix. Gets the HDR10 signal info, see the pj blank, check info and its flipped to HDR mode and the slider is available and remembers the last position
> 
> 
> 
> This is also pre any tweaks at all. Ive only tried flipping between bright cinema and natural modes and havent tried any of Alaric's settings yet and it already looks great compared to the 5020, then again I am coming from a 2500hr bulb, though we have been using it on high and right now Im running the 5050 at medium power




It’s not that it doesn’t engage hdr... it’s that the calibrated color, brightness, contrast, and grayscale settings don’t switch over to your preferred HDR picture mode when it kicks into HDR. 

Take for instance you have a few calibrated modes.... one for bright HDTV, one for calibrated SDR material, and one for calibrated HDR BT2020 material. If you pop in and HDR disc and most recently watched a football game and have it in your bright HDTV mode, the projector will not change your preferred mode when HDR kicks in. Most manufacturers do this now and Epson does not.


----------



## ezelkow1

scottyroo said:


> It’s not that it doesn’t engage hdr... it’s that the calibrated color, brightness, contrast, and grayscale settings don’t switch over to your preferred HDR picture mode when it kicks into HDR.
> 
> Take for instance you have a few calibrated modes.... one for bright HDTV, one for calibrated SDR material, and one for calibrated HDR BT2020 material. If you pop in and HDR disc and most recently watched a football game and have it in your bright HDTV mode, the projector will not change your preferred mode when HDR kicks in. Most manufacturers do this now and Epson does not.


Ahh ok, that makes sense now


----------



## termite

Alaric said:


> I'm not running a pc / Xbox etc, just a couple of bluray players and just listed my settings!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Alaric: Where did you list your settings? Can you point to it again? Thanks!


----------



## Luminated67

termite said:


> Alaric: Where did you list your settings? Can you point to it again? Thanks!


If viewing the AVForum from a computer it’s at the bottom of each of his posts.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dimi123 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well IMHO you are missing out but as long as you are happy that is the most important part of this hobby. Having owned both I could never go back to the 5040 custom gamma curves or not. Like you I agree that a Native 4K Epson Laser projector will be my next projector. Unfortunately for all of us that is probably at least two years away and maybe never. Epson understands the part of the market that buys their projectors and the price point to get Native 4K and Laser isn't really in their customer demographics base. They would have to grab that market share from Sony and know JVC and both of their diehard fans are very anti- Epson. So I am not waiting around for a projector from Epson that may never come.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe not laser but a lamp based native 4K projector should be the logical progression for Epson in 2 years time. There's not much more they can do with the current e-shift line as evidenced by the minor improvement of this year's model.
Click to expand...

You got me you made me laugh. You must have the best 5040 ever if you consider the 5050 just some minor improvements. I many others of course are of a different opinion but that's what great we all can have our own idea home theater Heaven


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

On my 100 inch screen in my bat cave I use these settings in digital cinema mode. Lamp is in eco contrast to 75 and HDR slider depends on content. 










I use this for SDR with great results again lamp in eco I have posted screen shots back up the thread showing Iron Man 2 

These settings are from AVForums 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> On my 100 inch screen in my bat cave I use these settings in digital cinema mode. Lamp is in eco contrast to 75 and HDR slider depends on content.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use this for SDR with great results again lamp in eco I have posted screen shots back up the thread showing Iron Man 2
> 
> These settings are from AVForums
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Those settings of mine was very early on before I realised it was set to full (0-255) instead of Auto (16-235).

I’d seriously check out the settings of @Alaric.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> Those settings of mine was very early on before I realised it was set to full (0-255) instead of Auto (16-235).
> 
> 
> 
> I’d seriously check out the settings of @Alaric.




What are you referring to with the 0-255 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> What are you referring to with the 0-255
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Video range, it was set on full which is the setting for computer, for BluRay etc you should have it set on Auto or Limited which is (16-235).


----------



## termite

Luminated67 said:


> If viewing the AVForum from a computer it’s at the bottom of each of his posts.


Do you mean this forum (AVS forum)? If so I don't see it for some reason ..


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> Video range, it was set on full which is the setting for computer, for BluRay etc you should have it set on Auto or Limited which is (16-235).




Where do I find that setting in what menu 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## --Sclaws

Just tossing in my initial experience with the 5050 as a former 5040 owner...for me, very worth the upgrade. I also have the UB820 and HDR is really a lot more enjoyable. Its easier to accomplish an excellent image that isn't too dim, blown out, muddy...whatever. This projector is my primary display for watching TV, movies and gaming in a moderately light-controlled living room. Paired with an ALR screen, I am extremely happy. 

I totally understand the reaction/expectation that the improvements are incremental, but the HDR slider for me is a game changer that makes HDR feel like less of a "hack", fighting a semi-trial-and-error process to find a good-enough calibration that gets as close as possible. I think I'll be able to enjoy movies more now, instead of thinking during the film "how can I make that look better next time".

Of course, YMMV.


----------



## Luminated67

termite said:


> Do you mean this forum (AVS forum)? If so I don't see it for some reason ..


Nope I mean the AVForum (uk site), @Alaric has a link to his settings there.


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Where do I find that setting in what menu
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Click menu when menu pops up then click on Signal and the Advanced, there you’ll see the options Auto, Limited & Full.


----------



## seplant

Any comments from former 5040 owners regarding 3D performance on the 5050? Better/same/worse?

Also, how about motion? Does the 5050 handle motion any better than the 5040? Is the frame interpolation on 1080p content improved at all?


----------



## cubsfan

Can some of you who have the 5050, chime in on how it performs with sports action ? I'm specifically interested in hockey , basketball, football, and if it is blurry . Thanks


----------



## txgriz

groggrog said:


> Curious if you can get the 1.01 firmware update installed. I had no luck with it.


 @groggrog

I am having a similar connection issue as you. Here is my setup

Epson 505-UB, 50ft HDMI 2.2 compliant cable, Marantz 8802A, Apple TV 4k.

For me, I can get no communication to work, at all, through the Marantz into HDMI 1. 
I cannot get any communication to work, at all, with the Apple TV 4k directly driving the 50ft cable into HDMI1. 
I can get my Oppo Blue Ray play which can upscale to 4K to play through the Marantz and into HDMI1.

Here's what's weird now.

I can get the Apple TV to communicate to the 5050 on HDMI2 input. It will not work with HDR 4K but SDR seems to work. This works both directly driving the long cable and through the Marantz 8802A. 

I have tried two different AppleTV 4k units so either that source is underpowered or there is a problem elsewhere.

I am suspecting a problem in the 5050 on HDMI1 at this point and my next step may be to get another unit from Best Buy through Magnolia.

(I have not tried the firmware update)


----------



## --Sclaws

Anyone seen a change log for the 1.01 firmware, or know what it fixes?


----------



## Luminated67

txgriz said:


> @groggrog
> 
> I am having a similar connection issue as you. Here is my setup
> 
> Epson 505-UB, 50ft HDMI 2.2 compliant cable, Marantz 8802A, Apple TV 4k.
> 
> For me, I can get no communication to work, at all, through the Marantz into HDMI 1.
> I cannot get any communication to work, at all, with the Apple TV 4k directly driving the 50ft cable into HDMI1.
> I can get my Oppo Blue Ray play which can upscale to 4K to play through the Marantz and into HDMI1.
> 
> Here's what's weird now.
> 
> I can get the Apple TV to communicate to the 5050 on HDMI2 input. It will not work with HDR 4K but SDR seems to work. This works both directly driving the long cable and through the Marantz 8802A.
> 
> I have tried two different AppleTV 4k units so either that source is underpowered or there is a problem elsewhere.
> 
> I am suspecting a problem in the 5050 on HDMI1 at this point and my next step may be to get another unit from Best Buy through Magnolia.
> 
> (I have not tried the firmware update)


You say you have a 50ft HDMI cable, is it an Opti-HDMI cable. We have found this makes all the difference, not cheap but definitely cures all problems.


----------



## VideoDrone

*Sports*



cubsfan said:


> Can some of you who have the 5050, chime in on how it performs with sports action ? I'm specifically interested in hockey , basketball, football, and if it is blurry . Thanks




Big sports fan, everything looks good. Watched a lot of recent NBA playoffs, No motion artifacts. I played around briefly with FI, but not an expert and like I've mentioned before everything on this PJ just pops off the screen, even my upscaled VCR content thru HDMI, I kid you not! 

I really love the extra brightness for sports, even in ECO mode, with moderately dimmed CAN lighting, I watch sports. Turn my CANs on full blast and turn the PJ to Medium brightness and all is good. Did I mention VERY little fan noise, in fact I have the turn the volume down so low on the source to hear the fans, i would never do that in practical use. I don't know what I'd use Bright Mode for, maybe emergency lighting? or send an SOS?, or project the Batman logo in the sky?, lol!


----------



## JonfromCB

txgriz said:


> @groggrog
> 
> I am having a similar connection issue as you. Here is my setup
> 
> Epson 505-UB, 50ft HDMI 2.2 compliant cable, Marantz 8802A, Apple TV 4k.
> 
> For me, I can get no communication to work, at all, through the Marantz into HDMI 1.
> I cannot get any communication to work, at all, with the Apple TV 4k directly driving the 50ft cable into HDMI1.
> I can get my Oppo Blue Ray play which can upscale to 4K to play through the Marantz and into HDMI1.
> 
> Here's what's weird now.
> 
> I can get the Apple TV to communicate to the 5050 on HDMI2 input. It will not work with HDR 4K but SDR seems to work. This works both directly driving the long cable and through the Marantz 8802A.
> 
> I have tried two different AppleTV 4k units so either that source is underpowered or there is a problem elsewhere.
> 
> I am suspecting a problem in the 5050 on HDMI1 at this point and my next step may be to get another unit from Best Buy through Magnolia.
> 
> (I have not tried the firmware update)


Sounds like your cable isn't supporting either a handshake, or 18Gps. Does it work with another 4K HDR display? I've seen a lot of cables for sale stating they support 2.2, but in the fine print they say they are only 10Gbps and I've seen active cables stating they support 4k/HDR @ 18Gbps and in the fine print they still have the old redmere chip sets. @ 50 ft and over, a guaranteed active cable with Spectra 7 chipset or fiber optic HDMi is cheap insurance to insure handshake and 18Gbps support.


----------



## Spankey

My JVC RS-15 is at the end of its life and I literally had the 5040 on order from Best Buy before realizing the 5050 had been released. I'm assuming I will see a noticeable improvement in brightness and detail. I held off because I need to do another cable run for 4k. Going to take a pro to run the cable for me. Oh well. I can wait. 

Only downside for me is not switching automatically to HDR. Hopefully a firmware update will fix that down the road. Looking forward to more reviews!


----------



## txgriz

JonfromCB said:


> Sounds like your cable isn't supporting either a handshake, or 18Gps. Does it work with another 4K HDR display? I've seen a lot of cables for sale stating they support 2.2, but in the fine print they say they are only 10Gbps and I've seen active cables stating they support 4k/HDR @ 18Gbps and in the fine print they still have the old redmere chip sets. @ 50 ft and over, a guaranteed active cable with Spectra 7 chipset or fiber optic HDMi is cheap insurance to insure handshake and 18Gbps support.


Update: At this point I am suspecting the cable too. I have a reasonable workaround for the time being. The 5050UB has the EDID setting set to Expanded by default. This setting allows the projector to advertise the high speed HDR settings to the AppleTV 4K which it happily accepts. This puts the two devices in an endless loop of trying to negotiate this speed and failing. The 5050UB doesn't even allow you to access the menus during this time because it falls into and back out of connection with the Apple TV. 

In my first post, I had disabled Expanded EDID on HDMI2 and that's why it was working. When I set this to Normal for HDMI1, it began working for me there too. 

Now the engineering in me has this to say: This failed negotiation in the 5050 should eventually timeout (EPSON engineers reading this pay attention). A message should be displayed saying, this source cannot negotiate the attempted speed XXXX, would you like to turn off expanded EDID for this input? I cannot imagine how frustrating this must be for a non-technical user who would likely just return the whole unit. Also, what's the deal with all the information hiding? How about adding a debug mode showing the currently advertised mode and the negotiated rate so the user can understand what is happening? 

Anyhow, I have a workaround for now. I'll look into an Optical HDMI cable to get my 4K HDR back. I've seen other threads about the Marantz 8802A having trouble with some optical HDMI cables so I may need to pay special attention the brand too.


----------



## --Sclaws

Spankey said:


> My JVC RS-15 is at the end of its life and I literally had the 5040 on order from Best Buy before realizing the 5050 had been released. I'm assuming I will see a noticeable improvement in brightness and detail. I held off because I need to do another cable run for 4k. Going to take a pro to run the cable for me. Oh well. I can wait.
> 
> Only downside for me is not switching automatically to HDR. Hopefully a firmware update will fix that down the road. Looking forward to more reviews!


The dynamic range of the 5050 does change automatically. What setting are you referring to that doesn't change?


----------



## Spankey

--Sclaws said:


> The dynamic range of the 5050 does change automatically. What setting are you referring to that doesn't change?


Scotty’s review saying it doesn’t change to preferred picture mode in HDR.


----------



## ezelkow1

Spankey said:


> Scotty’s review saying it doesn’t change to preferred picture mode in HDR.


I was confused by that as well, I think it was the wording. He said earlier its that he wishes that it would change OTHER settings when it detected HDR. So that you could have one color/gamma/etc calibration when it detected SDR and a different one when it detected HDR


----------



## --Sclaws

ezelkow1 said:


> I was confused by that as well, I think it was the wording. He said earlier its that he wishes that it would change OTHER settings when it detected HDR. So that you could have one color/gamma/etc calibration when it detected SDR and a different one when it detected HDR


In that case you are correct. It doesn't let you specify a color mode when HDR is detected(Digital Cinema vs Bright Cinema).


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Sounds like this is such an easy thing to add via a firmware update. Simply add a user selected "Preferred HDR Color Mode" and a "Preferred SDR Color Mode" and, voila, a lot of happy Epson customers are now even happier.


----------



## utkinpol

Is there anybody here who had/owned and compared 3700 projector to 5050? I want to know specifically, how fan noise of 3700 in ECO mode compares to noise of 5050 in HDR full lamp mode. My wife`s major grief with the whole projector thing is the noise level, and i am concerned quite a bit how it will work out, if i go with 5050 and it will be noisier than 3070 - as we never run it now in full brightness mode, ever, as it it quite loud that way and is hanging right above the sitting area. 
In Eco it is OK, and by the numbers in the 5050 specs it is not quite conclusive how loud it is compared to 3700, or how loud it is in what specific mode.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

utkinpol said:


> Is there anybody here who had/owned and compared 3700 projector to 5050? I want to know specifically, how fan noise of 3700 in ECo mode compares to noise of 5050 in HDR full lamp mode. My wife`s major grief with the whole projector thing is the noise level, and i am concerned quite a bit how it will work out, if i go with 5050 and it will be noisier than 3070 - as we never run it in full mode, ever, as it it quite loud that way. In Eco it is OK, and by the numbers in the 5050 specs it is not quite conclusive how loud it is compared to 3700.




I came from a 3700 and never ran that in any mode other than Eco. I have a dedicated room. The 5050UB is night and day better in every way and worth every penny. The colors and contrast is amazing. The blacks are so much improved from its the first thing that smacks you in the face after turning it on. It is a light cannon too and seems quieter. Again, this is on a 100 inch 16:9 Grey screen in a dark room. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## utkinpol

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I came from a 3700 and never ran that in any mode other than Eco. I have a dedicated room. The 5050UB is night and day better in every way and worth every penny. The colors and contrast is amazing. The blacks are so much improved from its the first thing that smacks you in the face after turning it on. It is a light cannon too and seems quieter. Again, this is on a 100 inch 16:9 Grey screen in a dark room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


i just want to confirm, how exactly 5050 in full brightness mode compares to 3700 in ECO? is it louder/comparable/more/less - essentially, is it usable at all in full lamp mode, as 3700 was, efficiently, not really usable in full mode, as it would be way too loud. if more loud - to what level? 

image quality wise is it all clear and understandable, no questions here at all, i specifically want to understand how the fan noise compares.


----------



## JackB

I'm picking my 5050 up today. One of the points I remember reading about was the issue of how to specify when and where to do the 1080P to 4K or vice versa. For instance, my Roku Ultra can take a Netflix 4K and output it as 4K. Then the 5050 has to down convert it to 1080 and then back to wobulated 4K. Has anyone bookmarked that discussion. It's many pages back and hard to search on.


----------



## utkinpol

also, if anybody could confirm if this HDMI cord will work OK with it - it would be great. i need 50ft one, so, i presume optical is the only way to go. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG7C25W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## JackB

utkinpol said:


> also, if anybody could confirm if this HDMI cord will work OK with it - it would be great. i need 50ft one, so, i presume optical is the only way to go.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG7C25W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


50ft for $65; that's a good deal. Hope the quality is there. Be very careful with it. They are fragile. I had one break and had to return it.


----------



## utkinpol

JackB said:


> 50ft for $65; that's a good deal. Hope the quality is there. Be very careful with it. They are fragile. I had one break and had to return it.


i hope too, placed an order on amazon for both, hope it will work out. i am concerned only about 2 things - the size of the thing and the noise. as if it will not be possible to run it in HDR mode - i have no real justification for it. the absolute majority of content i watch is in 1080p, so, 4K by itself is not really needed that much. i hope to get a bit better quality in 3D, black levels and HDR. 

also, it seems that it may not like the position of where my 3700 ceiling mount is now, at least from online calculator it seems that 5500 lens is not going to cover screen from where 3700 sits now, i hope it is not the case, as i really do not want to re-drill the ceiling again... will see.


----------



## Hawkmarket

utkinpol said:


> i just want to confirm, how exactly 5050 in full brightness mode compares to 3700 in ECO? is it louder/comparable/more/less - essentially, is it usable at all in full lamp mode, as 3700 was, efficiently, not really usable in full mode, as it would be way too loud. if more loud - to what level?
> 
> image quality wise is it all clear and understandable, no questions here at all, i specifically want to understand how the fan noise compares.


I have an Epson 3700 and 5030UB as well. I would be STUNNED if the 5050 in full power mode is as quiet as the 3700 on ECO. My expectation will be the 5050 will probably fall somewhere in the middle of medium and full brightness of the 3700 in regards to noise. If the 3700 is ceiling mounted above you and medium bothers you I would say you'll likely find the 5050 noisy in full brightness mode. I'm only making a guess as I don't have one yet but my experience with Epson is that they don't make whisper silent projectors. My experience with medium on the 3700 is that unless it's a perfectly silent part of a movie, I don't hear it. It's ceiling mounted right above where I sit.


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys. My 5050 is showing up in the next hour or so and I was wondering if there’s a firmware update already available for this model. If so, I would like to knock it out first before going through the setup process and adjusting pictures. I believe I read somewhere that it allows FI with a 1080p 4K enhanced picture? A link to the upgrade would be perfect if someone has it. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ezelkow1

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. My 5050 is showing up in the next hour or so and I was wondering if there’s a firmware update already available for this model. If so, I would like to knock it out first before going through the setup process and adjusting pictures. I believe I read somewhere that it allows FI with a 1080p 4K enhanced picture? A link to the upgrade would be perfect if someone has it. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yours will probably already have it. I think the latest is 1.01 and mine that showed up Saturday already had it


----------



## utkinpol

Hawkmarket said:


> My experience with medium on the 3700 is that unless it's a perfectly silent part of a movie, I don't hear it. It's ceiling mounted right above where I sit.


hmm, dunno. for us medium level of 3700 is very noticeable, pretty much always, maybe due to the way it is mounted now or how room is set. i may wait a bit longer then with this purchase, really want to know for sure from others on this topic first before i commit to it.


----------



## Hawkmarket

utkinpol said:


> hmm, dunno. for us medium level of 3700 is very noticeable, pretty much always, maybe due to the way it is mounted now or how room is set. i may wait a bit longer then with this purchase, really want to know for sure from others on this topic first before i commit to it.



I just don't think you're going to get anything quieter than what the 3700 does on medium with the 5050 on full blast. The other thing I'd be interested in is with the 5030 the projector fan is quite a bit louder inverted. Did they fix this with the 5040 or perhaps subsequently with the 5050? Something about turning it upside down made the fan louder on the 5030 and not by a small amount.


----------



## JewDaddy

ezelkow1 said:


> Yours will probably already have it. I think the latest is 1.01 and mine that showed up Saturday already had it




Nice! Thank you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ezelkow1

For noise compared to our 5020 the 5050 is much quieter so far. We used to run the 5020 in 'normal' and thx preset, so high power lamp but not full brightness mode. On that you could hear the fan in the background slightly, we got used to it so it wasnt a big deal but it was there, plus if it was completely quiet you could hear the iris doing its thing. On the 5050 Ive been using medium power/natural and I cant hear it at all, also no iris noise either (we also have to run in high altitude mode which at least on the 5020 would kick up the fan more often) but much brighter output than the 5020


----------



## utkinpol

Hawkmarket said:


> I just don't think you're going to get anything quieter than what the 3700 does on medium with the 5050 on full blast. The other thing I'd be interested in is with the 5030 the projector fan is quite a bit louder inverted. Did they fix this with the 5040 or perhaps subsequently with the 5050? Something about turning it upside down made the fan louder on the 5030 and not by a small amount.


it makes sense. well... hmm. will 5050 do HDR acceptably ok in the medium lamp mode? i think from 5040 discussions it was stated that HDR really needs all the light this PJ can produce and even that was not, well, quite enough. i just do not know how would it work in medium lamp setting then and if that is even possible.


----------



## JAR5197

*Screen to match 5050*

Hello group
I'll be getting a 5050 shortly. Going to have a 120 inch screen in a multipurpose room. Decent light control, but some light likely. Wondering about the screen. I can't afford 800 or more for a screen. Wondering if I should get a white or gray screen. 
Suggestions? 
Thanks


----------



## Hawkmarket

utkinpol said:


> it makes sense. well... hmm. will 5050 do HDR acceptably ok in the medium lamp mode? i think from 5040 discussions it was stated that HDR really needs all the light this PJ can produce and even that was not, well, quite enough. i just do not know how would it work in medium lamp setting then and if that is even possible.



To be honest, I don't know how you're going to be able to read enough answers to fully know. If you can buy the projector from somewhere with a generous return policy that's really the only way you'll know if this thing will work for you or not. Unless you have a small screen 100" ish or less I'd be surprised if the feedback from here is that the implementation of HDR is appropriate on medium. However, you may find the expanded color space, e-shift capabilities and better blacks more than satisfying. I think you just need to hook one up and play around a bit. Ask enough questions the right way you'll probably find enough consensus to validate the purchase but your eyes and ears in this case are the best judge.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Hawkmarket said:


> To be honest, I don't know how you're going to be able to read enough answers to fully know. If you can buy the projector from somewhere with a generous return policy that's really the only way you'll know if this thing will work for you or not. Unless you have a small screen 100" ish or less I'd be surprised if the feedback from here is that the implementation of HDR is appropriate on medium. However, you may find the expanded color space, e-shift capabilities and better blacks more than satisfying. I think you just need to hook one up and play around a bit. Ask enough questions the right way you'll probably find enough consensus to validate the purchase but your eyes and ears in this case are the best judge.




HDR is excellent on ECO on a small screen 100’ as long as you have a proper room. Light controlled and blacked out walls. This is like watching a much bigger version of my Vizio P Series which puts out an excellent picture. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

utkinpol said:


> it makes sense. well... hmm. will 5050 do HDR acceptably ok in the medium lamp mode? i think from 5040 discussions it was stated that HDR really needs all the light this PJ can produce and even that was not, well, quite enough. i just do not know how would it work in medium lamp setting then and if that is even possible.


Depends on quite what you want.
I've an accurate setting which uses the filter mode and on a 120" screen I'm very low on the HDR slider using High power. Great picture and I'm happy with the extra noise as once a movie is playing my Atmos rig makes it irrelevant.

I've also created a HDR bright mode, using Natural, which doesn't have the filter engaged, the colours are a little less accurate bit exceedingly watchable and on most films I've found myself at 6 on the slider using Medium power.

It depends a bit on your setup, screen size and how bright you like it and how the film was mastered.

However i don't know of any current projector that will do better or have the flexibility to give you the choice arround what you are willing to compromise on. 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## ezelkow1

^
Thats how I ended up running this past weekend. HDR viewing at medium on a 100in screen with a natural setting, ended up with the hdr at 6/7 and it seemed plenty bright to me


----------



## utkinpol

ezelkow1 said:


> ^
> Thats how I ended up running this past weekend. HDR viewing at medium on a 100in screen with a natural setting, ended up with the hdr at 6/7 and it seemed plenty bright to me


that sound promising, i run 110" screen now and have no plans to alter anything. thx so much for the confirmation.


----------



## groggrog

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. My 5050 is showing up in the next hour or so and I was wondering if there’s a firmware update already available for this model. If so, I would like to knock it out first before going through the setup process and adjusting pictures. I believe I read somewhere that it allows FI with a 1080p 4K enhanced picture? A link to the upgrade would be perfect if someone has it. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Firmware 1.01 is here: https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


Let us know if you can get it to install. I haven't been successful with it.


----------



## Hawkmarket

utkinpol said:


> that sound promising, i run 110" screen now and have no plans to alter anything. thx so much for the confirmation.


 
If it's calibrated at around 1100 lumens on medium you're probably around 30fl assuming you're working with a 1.0 gain screen. I would guess the lowest you ever experienced with the 3700 was 42fl. I think you'll be pleased with 30fl for HDR but you're the one who has to be satisfied.


----------



## cubsfan

VideoDrone said:


> Big sports fan, everything looks good. Watched a lot of recent NBA playoffs, No motion artifacts. I played around briefly with FI, but not an expert and like I've mentioned before everything on this PJ just pops off the screen, even my upscaled VCR content thru HDMI, I kid you not!
> 
> I really love the extra brightness for sports, even in ECO mode, with moderately dimmed CAN lighting, I watch sports. Turn my CANs on full blast and turn the PJ to Medium brightness and all is good. Did I mention VERY little fan noise, in fact I have the turn the volume down so low on the source to hear the fans, i would never do that in practical use. I don't know what I'd use Bright Mode for, maybe emergency lighting? or send an SOS?, or project the Batman logo in the sky?, lol!





Thanks for the response. a lot of positives there. 

Anybody been watching some hockey, and care to chime in about any motion artifacts ?


----------



## keithj101

If this question is against the rules, let me know and I'll delete. Any authorized sellers of 5050 that don't change sales tax to California?


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> They would have to grab that market share from Sony and know JVC and both of their diehard fans are very anti- Epson. So I am not waiting around for a projector from Epson that may never come.


I'm on my 3rd JVC projector and know quite a few other JVC owners and this really isn't true. In fact I've recommended the Epson 5040 to people more than either Sony or JVC just based on their excellent value/performance and the budget of the people asking for advice. I certainly never pass up the chance to hang out and watch a movie in any of the local members theaters who own an Epson.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> They would have to grab that market share from Sony and know JVC and both of their diehard fans are very anti- Epson. So I am not waiting around for a projector from Epson that may never come.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm on my 3rd JVC projector and know quite a few other JVC owners and this really isn't true. In fact I've recommended the Epson 5040 to people more than either Sony or JVC just based on their excellent value/performance and the budget of the people asking for advice. I certainly never pass up the chance to hang out and watch a movie in any of the local members theaters who own an Epson.
Click to expand...

I didn't mean to offend any JVC owners with an open mind about Epson projectors. I generalized which is never a good thing to do. I really love the new JVC native 4K projectors.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> utkinpol said:
> 
> 
> 
> i just want to confirm, how exactly 5050 in full brightness mode compares to 3700 in ECO? is it louder/comparable/more/less - essentially, is it usable at all in full lamp mode, as 3700 was, efficiently, not really usable in full mode, as it would be way too loud. if more loud - to what level?
> 
> image quality wise is it all clear and understandable, no questions here at all, i specifically want to understand how the fan noise compares.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Epson 3700 and 5030UB as well. I would be STUNNED if the 5050 in full power mode is as quiet as the 3700 on ECO. My expectation will be the 5050 will probably fall somewhere in the middle of medium and full brightness of the 3700 in regards to noise. If the 3700 is ceiling mounted above you and medium bothers you I would say you'll likely find the 5050 noisy in full brightness mode. I'm only making a guess as I don't have one yet but my experience with Epson is that they don't make whisper silent projectors. My experience with medium on the 3700 is that unless it's a perfectly silent part of a movie, I don't hear it. It's ceiling mounted right above where I sit.
Click to expand...

This is by far the quietest Epson projector I have owned. I have owned the 6500Ub 5030 and 5040. The 5050 is the first that I cannot hear from MLP. Projector is behind MLP ceiling mounted 4ft behind MLP. Running in Natural color mode which means medium power consumption and Auto Iris Off. Even when I engage a color mode with Auto Iris High the iris is much quieter than the 5040. Haven't run in High Power consumption mode yet.


----------



## skylarlove1999

I have Denon Avr 4300. Using 2018 Roku Ultra Player with ethernet connection. Using Furui Fiber Optic HDMI active cable. When switching from HDR to SDR content and vice versa the signal locks onto the color format and then stays on the wrong color format. VUDU is the worst culprit but it happens on Netflix and Amazon Prime as well. When I switch back to my Panasonic ub820 the hard disc resets it back to whatever color format is on the disc either HDR or SDR. I would test VUDU through the Panasonic ub820 but it doesn't support VUDU. I love the 5050 but this issue is quite aggravating. Anyone else having a similar issue. I tried both HDMI inputs on the 5050 and same issue. I have yet to try another HDMI cable. Here is a photo illustrating what I an talking about. You can see the projector info showing Rec 709 and HDR at the same time. That should never be. Everything for HDMI and color range is set to auto. You can see how awful the skin tone is on Bond's face.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ezelkow1 said:


> For noise compared to our 5020 the 5050 is much quieter so far. We used to run the 5020 in 'normal' and thx preset, so high power lamp but not full brightness mode. On that you could hear the fan in the background slightly, we got used to it so it wasnt a big deal but it was there, plus if it was completely quiet you could hear the iris doing its thing. On the 5050 Ive been using medium power/natural and I cant hear it at all, also no iris noise either (we also have to run in high altitude mode which at least on the 5020 would kick up the fan more often) but much brighter output than the 5020


Agreed 100% about the fan noise on the 5050. I have to turn my volume down to near zero to even hear it in medium power/natural. So much quieter than my 5040ub.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JAR5197 said:


> Hello group
> I'll be getting a 5050 shortly. Going to have a 120 inch screen in a multipurpose room. Decent light control, but some light likely. Wondering about the screen. I can't afford 800 or more for a screen. Wondering if I should get a white or gray screen.
> Suggestions?
> Thanks


Seymour Screens are DIY friendly if you are handy. Cannot comment on the gray screen but have seen some good reviews. I own the Seymour Glacier White perfectly smooth screen and the image quality is outstanding.


----------



## JewDaddy

Got the 5050 unpacked and up my shelf. I plan to do a lot of 4K HDR game testing on the One X and PS4 Pro. Hopefully I can do some of that tonight if I can get my newborn to sleep. Lol. I’ll keep you guys posted on my findings. I also plan to check out the 3D and see how it compares to the 5040


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

keithj101 said:


> If this question is against the rules, let me know and I'll delete. Any authorized sellers of 5050 that don't change sales tax to California?


Crutchfield has an unbelievable price on the 5050 today. Sorry if this is not allowed. I just wanted to help out my fellow forum members.


----------



## Spankey

skylarlove1999 said:


> Crutchfield has an unbelievable price on the 5050 today. Sorry if this is not allowed. I just wanted to help out my fellow forum members.


Thanks for that. Best Buy just price matched for me! With 24 month financing. 

Now I need some more settings to come in.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Spankey said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Crutchfield has an unbelievable price on the 5050 today. Sorry if this is not allowed. I just wanted to help out my fellow forum members.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that. Best Buy just price matched for me! With 24 month financing.
> 
> Now I need some more settings to come in.
Click to expand...

Always a good feeling when you can help out a fellow Forum member. You will not be disappointed I love mine and I haven't even had a professional calibration yet or really dialed any settings in.


----------



## Spankey

skylarlove1999 said:


> Always a good feeling when you can help out a fellow Forum member. You will not be disappointed I love mine and I haven't even had a professional calibration yet or really dialed any settings in.


Looks like Jeff Meier is coming around in November. Definitely getting in on that tour!


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Spankey said:


> Looks like Jeff Meier is coming around in November. Definitely getting in on that tour!




Coming where??? I want in on this. Located in the DC metro area and seeking calibration 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Spankey said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Always a good feeling when you can help out a fellow Forum member. You will not be disappointed I love mine and I haven't even had a professional calibration yet or really dialed any settings in.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like Jeff Meier is coming around in November. Definitely getting in on that tour!
Click to expand...

You got that right. He calibrated my 5040 and audio last September. Best money I ever spent. My audio is better than the local multiplex now. Never thought i would say that. The man is an artist and such a nice guy. Highly recommend doing both. So worth it.


----------



## Spankey

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Coming where??? I want in on this. Located in the DC metro area and seeking calibration
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


https://www.accucalav.com/locations/


----------



## BIC2

*Black Borders*

I'm going through the painful process of screen size/aspect ration, etc. Planning on the 5050. My theater is a dedicated bunker with dark walls and total light control. I would like to just get an over-sized screen if the 5050 blacks out the unused screen to the point of not being noticeable. I don't want to bother with velvet borders on/off. Can anybody comment on the 5050's ability in this regard? Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> I'm going through the painful process of screen size/aspect ration, etc. Planning on the 5050. My theater is a dedicated bunker with dark walls and total light control. I would like to just get an over-sized screen if the 5050 blacks out the unused screen to the point of not being noticeable. I don't want to bother with velvet borders on/off. Can anybody comment on the 5050's ability in this regard? Thanks.


I don't know any LCD based projector that reduces those bars on the top and bottom to the point of not being noticeable. I have only seen LG OLED televisions perform absolute black for those bars. Dolby Atmos theaters which use laser projectors(2 of them at that)also have that capability. I know some enthusiasts who zoom the image out until there are no more black bars but you are then cutting off some of the picture. If you hadn't purchased a screen yet Seymour Av makes a manual masking system for their screens that is relatively inexpensive. Otherwise DIY masking is always a possibility. You will notice the bars on the 5050 or any projector. You really need a laser projector to get rid of those black bars. The JVC RS4500 might eliminate them. Pretty expensive way to eliminate them. LOL. You could also purchase a 2:35 screen which would also eliminate the bars at the top and bottom since the screen would match scope movie but that then presents the same problem when watching 16:9 ratio media except the bars would then be on the sides.


----------



## BIC2

skylarlove1999 said:


> I don't know any LCD based projector that reduces those bars on the top and bottom to the point of not being noticeable. I have only seen LG OLED televisions perform absolute black for those bars. Dolby Atmos theaters which use laser projectors(2 of them at that)also have that capability.


Understood. Not talking about absolute perfection in that regard. I have a seven year old Panasonict VT65-50 plasma. In a totally dark room, I can't see the black bars. At my local dealer, they have a demo theater with a Sony VPL-VW295ES. With some light in the room, not great black on the bars, but not distracting, which I guess is where I set the bar (no pun intended).


----------



## Sambriz

skylarlove1999 said:


> Crutchfield has an unbelievable price on the 5050 today. Sorry if this is not allowed. I just wanted to help out my fellow forum members.


THANKS!! Just price matched over the phone my BB projector purchase.


----------



## BIC2

*Mandatory MSRP?*



skylarlove1999 said:


> Crutchfield has an unbelievable price on the 5050 today. Sorry if this is not allowed. I just wanted to help out my fellow forum members.


_


Sambriz said:



THANKS!! Just price matched over the phone my BB projector purchase. 

Click to expand...

_The other day, BB told me that Epson, Sony & JVC projectors have to be sold at MSRP per manufacturer policies. I'm skeptical. although Bose & Apple seem to have perfected that strategy.


----------



## Gellert1

BIC2 said:


> The other day, BB told me that Epson, Sony & JVC projectors have to be sold at MSRP per manufacturer policies. I'm skeptical. although Bose & Apple seem to have perfected that strategy.


Having bought a new 5050ub just 13 days ago from Crutchfield, I wrote their sales Dept if they can offer me a refund or "in-store credit" for the $200 I overpaid. I still have it in the box, unopened.


----------



## Luminated67

https://www.dropbox.com/s/raf1eos3wi3hw5v/Photo 22-04-2019, 20 25 56.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tyerpld11o8i7ga/Photo 22-04-2019, 20 41 12.jpg?dl=0

Some 1080P discs are better than others and Bohemian Rhapsody is one of them, a visual and sonic delight.


----------



## Luminated67

BIC2 said:


> I'm going through the painful process of screen size/aspect ration, etc. Planning on the 5050. My theater is a dedicated bunker with dark walls and total light control. I would like to just get an over-sized screen if the 5050 blacks out the unused screen to the point of not being noticeable. I don't want to bother with velvet borders on/off. Can anybody comment on the 5050's ability in this regard? Thanks.


You have the ability to blank areas on your screen in the menu, this cuts an light going to these areas so effectively as dark as it can possibly get. This isn’t quite as good as proper velvet masking but if you have proper non reflective walls and ceiling it works really good.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> BIC2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going through the painful process of screen size/aspect ration, etc. Planning on the 5050. My theater is a dedicated bunker with dark walls and total light control. I would like to just get an over-sized screen if the 5050 blacks out the unused screen to the point of not being noticeable. I don't want to bother with velvet borders on/off. Can anybody comment on the 5050's ability in this regard? Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> You have the ability to blank areas in the menu, this cuts an light going to these areas so effectively as dark as it can possibly get. This isn’t quite as good as proper velvet masking but if you have proper non reflective walls and ceiling it works really good.
Click to expand...

Thank you Luminated67. I was unaware of that. I have masking panels but that should still make the other area of the screen somewhat brighter in theory at least. Where in the menu? Thanks in advance.


----------



## --Sclaws

Gellert said:


> BIC2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other day, BB told me that Epson, Sony & JVC projectors have to be sold at MSRP per manufacturer policies. I'm skeptical. although Bose & Apple seem to have perfected that strategy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having bought a new 5050ub just 13 days ago from Crutchfield, I wrote their sales Dept if they can offer me a refund or "in-store credit" for the $200 I overpaid. I still have it in the box, unopened.
Click to expand...

I also got mine last week. Asked them via chat if I could get a refund for the difference and they said yes. Already received it via PayPal. Great company!


----------



## skylarlove1999

--Sclaws said:


> Gellert said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BIC2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other day, BB told me that Epson, Sony & JVC projectors have to be sold at MSRP per manufacturer policies. I'm skeptical. although Bose & Apple seem to have perfected that strategy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having bought a new 5050ub just 13 days ago from Crutchfield, I wrote their sales Dept if they can offer me a refund or "in-store credit" for the $200 I overpaid. I still have it in the box, unopened.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I also got mine last week. Asked them via chat if I could get a refund for the difference and they said yes. Already received it via PayPal. Great company!
Click to expand...

I made my first home theater purchase 28 years ago over a rotary phone with Crutchfield. For you millennials you will need to perform a Google search. They have been and still are a world class organization in terms of products knowledge and customer service.


----------



## --Sclaws

groggrog said:


> Firmware 1.01 is here: https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> 
> Let us know if you can get it to install. I haven't been successful with it.


I tried installing this yesterday and it did not succeed...sat flashing for 45min so I called Epson. They said to unplug the projector, remove the flash drive and try a different USB stick. While I was pretty terrified about interrupting the firmware install and bricking the projector, they assured me it would be fine to unplug--and it was. However, I'm not going to try again until the next release. I'm now invoking the whole "if it ain't broke..." saying on this one.


----------



## groggrog

--Sclaws said:


> I tried installing this yesterday and it did not succeed...sat flashing for 45min so I called Epson. They said to unplug the projector, remove the flash drive and try a different USB stick. While I was pretty terrified about interrupting the firmware install and bricking the projecter, they assured me it would be fine to unplug--and it was. However, I'm not going to try again until the next release. I'm now invoking the whole "if it ain't broke..." saying on this one.



Same experience as mine. Hopefully the next one will work.


----------



## utee05

How does the 5050ub handle motion for watching sports? My viewing is primarily tv/movies with some sports watching. About 75/25 maybe 70/30 split as my main sports watching is football season and sports playoffs. I had thought of jumping up to a jvc from my current benq 1070 but if epson can handle motion well I may get it and a panasonic ub820.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you Luminated67. I was unaware of that. I have masking panels but that should still make the other area of the screen somewhat brighter in theory at least. Where in the menu? Thanks in advance.


Settings section on the left once you have clicked the menu button. Once you’ve adjusting the blanking top and bottom you can save in the Lens memory.


----------



## Gellert1

--Sclaws said:


> I also got mine last week. Asked them via chat if I could get a refund for the difference and they said yes. Already received it via PayPal. Great company!


Based on your experience, I just did the same thing via their online chat pop-up. No problem getting my refund and thanked me for being their customer.

I owe you a beer for letting us know 🍺 Much appreciated.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> --Sclaws said:
> 
> 
> 
> I also got mine last week. Asked them via chat if I could get a refund for the difference and they said yes. Already received it via PayPal. Great company!
> 
> 
> 
> Based on your experience, I just did the same thing via their online chat pop-up. No problem getting my refund and thanked me for being their customer.
> 
> I owe you a beer for letting us know 🍺 Much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Hey where's my beer for the original post LOL. Glad it was so easy and Crutchfield is amazing.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Luminated67. I was unaware of that. I have masking panels but that should still make the other area of the screen somewhat brighter in theory at least. Where in the menu? Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Settings section on the left once you have clicked the menu button. Once you’ve adjusting the blanking top and bottom you can save in the Lens memory.
Click to expand...

Thank you much appreciated.


----------



## --Sclaws

skylarlove1999 said:


> Hey where's my beer for the original post LOL. Glad it was so easy and Crutchfield is amazing.


Been a customer myself for a long time, just don't order that often. When I do, it's been painless. They were/are a really good company to deal with.


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> then presents the same problem when watching 16:9 ratio media except the bars would then be on the sides.


Keep in mind on a scope screen the unused side portions are NOT lit by the panel. So unless the projector has light leakage around the lens that contaminates this area they will be as black as the room supports. The only time you will see unused panel on the screen with a scope screen is watching old 4:3 TV shows and 1.66:1 or 1.37:1 films where the material doesn't fill the 1.78:1 LCD panel (and you aren't zooming the unused portions outside of the screen). I have use lens memory presets for 1.78:1, 1.85:1, 2.0:1, 2.20:1 and 2.35:1.

And for those on the fence I got to see forum user Carp's 5040 when the Kansas City group did their theater crawl with a very large scope screen. The 5040 handled the screen wonderfully and I would imagine the 5050 would only be better.


----------



## carmona

When using this Epson 5050 projector with an Oppo 203 player, what are the required/best video output settings on the Oppo 203 to achieve the finest viewing of content...streaming, dvd, blu ray, 4k/hdr disc etc.?


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> then presents the same problem when watching 16:9 ratio media except the bars would then be on the sides.
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind on a scope screen the unused side portions are NOT lit by the panel. So unless the projector has light leakage around the lens that contaminates this area they will be as black as the room supports. The only time you will see unused panel on the screen with a scope screen is watching old 4:3 TV shows and 1.66:1 or 1.37:1 films where the material doesn't fill the 1.78:1 LCD panel (and you aren't zooming the unused portions outside of the screen). I have use lens memory presets for 1.78:1, 1.85:1, 2.0:1, 2.20:1 and 2.35:1.
> 
> And for those on the fence I got to see forum user Carp's 5040 when the Kansas City group did their theater crawl with a very large scope screen. The 5040 handled the screen wonderfully and I would imagine the 5050 would only be better.
Click to expand...

Thank you for mentioning a great point. That is very important info that I failed to mention.


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you for mentioning a great point. That is very important info that I failed to mention.


No worries! It's a common thing I see pop in the CIH forum. People aren't used to thinking about how zooming to fill wider AR works with regards to what is lit by the panel and what isn't. I mostly see this with people thinking they need to mask a wider screen as they do letterbox bars on a narrow 16:9 screen, when in most cases it isn't really necessary. Just wanted to answer that and make sure folks know that the Epson works very well with wider AR screens.


----------



## rcsauvag

jeahrens said:


> No worries! It's a common thing I see pop in the CIH forum. People aren't used to thinking about how zooming to fill wider AR works with regards to what is lit by the panel and what isn't. I mostly see this with people thinking they need to mask a wider screen as they do letterbox bars on a narrow 16:9 screen, when in most cases it isn't really necessary. Just wanted to answer that and make sure folks know that the Epson works very well with wider AR screens.


Without that masking, can't people see the blank white screen?


----------



## JackB

Does this 5050UB have a wireless connection for software updates or do I have to purchase a wireless adaptor? if so, will any or my old 802.11 usb adaptors work?


----------



## termite

carmona said:


> When using this Epson 5050 projector with an Oppo 203 player, what are the required/best video output settings on the Oppo 203 to achieve the finest viewing of content...streaming, dvd, blu ray, 4k/hdr disc etc.?


I'm interested in the answer to this also.. particularly 4K HDR with Oppo 203 & Epson 5050ub..


----------



## JackB

Sambriz said:


> THANKS!! Just price matched over the phone my BB projector purchase.


I just picked mine up from Best Buy yesterday. Who did you call to get the price match?


----------



## nickoakdl

JackB said:


> I just picked mine up from Best Buy yesterday. Who did you call to get the price match?


1-888-best-buy


----------



## jeahrens

rcsauvag said:


> Without that masking, can't people see the blank white screen?


Since it's not lit by the panel, the unused screen portion (pillarboxed) disappears in a properly light controlled room. Unlike letterboxing on a 16:9 screen where the unused area is lit by "black" pixels. As I said earlier the only concern with pillarboxing is if there is lens leakage that hits the area and calls attention to it. On my scope screen a 1.85:1 movie just floats in black. Masking still will look nice and clean, but in a lot of cases it just isn't necessary.


----------



## JewDaddy

groggrog said:


> Firmware 1.01 is here: https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> 
> Let us know if you can get it to install. I haven't been successful with it.




So mine did not come with the latest firmware installed. Tried it probably six times now and I’ve been unsuccessful every time. I get all the lights blinking and the projector is loud but it never gets past that point. I’ve tried reformatting the thumb drive to FAT, FAT32 and EXFAT. No luck. In fact, Ex fact doesn’t even get the lights blinking at all. What the heck?!?!?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

JewDaddy said:


> So mine did not come with the latest firmware installed. Tried it probably six times now and I’ve been unsuccessful every time. I get all the lights blinking and the projector is loud but it never gets past that point. I’ve tried reformatting the thumb drive to FAT, FAT32 and EXFAT. No luck. In fact, Ex fact doesn’t even get the lights blinking at all. What the heck?!?!?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Exactly the same as me. Tried with all the file system types, and made sure there's no hidden folder on the USB drive. I also have a problem when I turn on the projector it never displays a picture until I unplug it and plug it back in. Annoying. Wondering if there's some kind of power issue that's causing startup issues and inability to upgrade firmware. If that's the case I see trouble ahead for Epson.


----------



## JewDaddy

groggrog said:


> Exactly the same as me. Tried with all the file system types, and made sure there's no hidden folder on the USB drive. I also have a problem when I turn on the projector it never displays a picture until I unplug it and plug it back in. Annoying. Wondering if there's some kind of power issue that's causing startup issues and inability to upgrade firmware. If that's the case I see trouble ahead for Epson.




I’ve still yet to try and watch anything on it. I’ve only adjusted the lens and focus so far. I really didn’t want to start it up until I knew the firmware was updated. I’m OCD like that. Lol

I am curious if maybe it’s the thumb drive itself. Is there a certain type that it accepts or doesn’t accept. Maybe the drive can’t be very large in size??? I don’t know. I’m trying a 256mb thumb drive. What about you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

JewDaddy said:


> I’ve still yet to try and watch anything on it. I’ve only adjusted the lens and focus so far. I really didn’t want to start it up until I knew the firmware was updated. I’m OCD like that. Lol
> 
> I am curious if maybe it’s the thumb drive itself. Is there a certain type that it accepts or doesn’t accept. Maybe the drive can’t be very large in size??? I don’t know. I’m trying a 256mb thumb drive. What about you?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I tried a few different drives as well. The last I tried was an 8gb drive and I created a 256mb partition on it just to get it as small as I could. No luck with that.


----------



## JonfromCB

groggrog said:


> I tried a few different drives as well. The last I tried was an 8gb drive and I created a 256mb partition on it just to get it as small as I could. No luck with that.


Sorry you guys are having problems updating and hope you and Epson get this solved. My point is it's important to many of us that you are sharing the problem/issue.
Even if more recent shipments have updated firmware, I'll be anxious to know if the latest firmware builds share the update problem or not.


----------



## groggrog

JonfromCB said:


> Sorry you guys are having problems updating and hope you and Epson get this solved. My point is it's important to many of us that you are sharing the problem/issue.
> Even if more recent shipments have updated firmware, I'll be anxious to know if the latest firmware builds share the update problem or not.



Yes for sure. I actually am returning the 5050 I got last week because of the power issue, hoping that a replacement won't have the same issue. Will see if it has newer firmware then, and hope that it can be updated when newer firmware is released.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

groggrog said:


> Yes for sure. I actually am returning the 5050 I got last week because of the power issue, hoping that a replacement won't have the same issue. Will see if it has newer firmware then, and hope that it can be updated when newer firmware is released.




What power issue do you have? Mine has an auto iris issue and my replacement comes today. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

CallingMrBenzo said:


> What power issue do you have? Mine has an auto iris issue and my replacement comes today.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Power issue: when I power on the projector, it continuously flashes the blue light but no picture ever appears. The only way around it is to unplug the projector and then re-plug it, and after that it powers on fine. I have to do that every time.


----------



## JewDaddy

groggrog said:


> I tried a few different drives as well. The last I tried was an 8gb drive and I created a 256mb partition on it just to get it as small as I could. No luck with that.




I’m gonna go out and buy a 4gb and see what kind of luck I have. 

Btw, have you tried calling Epson support about this yet?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

groggrog said:


> Power issue: when I power on the projector, it continuously flashes the blue light but no picture ever appears. The only way around it is to unplug the projector and then re-plug it, and after that it powers on fine. I have to do that every time.




That’s what I would have to do the same thing. I would get a blue screen that says auto iris inoperative power odd unit, contact Epson. When you tried to power it off all lights would flash and you would have to pull the power chord. I just disabled the iris feature in the menu and it works as is. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JackB

jeahrens said:


> Since it's not lit by the panel, the unused screen portion (pillarboxed) disappears in a properly light controlled room. Unlike letterboxing on a 16:9 screen where the unused area is lit by "black" pixels. As I said earlier the only concern with pillarboxing is if there is lens leakage that hits the area and calls attention to it. On my scope screen a 1.85:1 movie just floats in black. Masking still will look nice and clean, but in a lot of cases it just isn't necessary.


I'll have to test your theory of the white part not showing up by implementing the "blanking" feature. If it works that would save a lot of effort masking the letterbox area on a 16x9 screen.


----------



## groggrog

CallingMrBenzo said:


> That’s what I would have to do the same thing. I would get a blue screen that says auto iris inoperative power odd unit, contact Epson. When you tried to power it off all lights would flash and you would have to pull the power chord. I just disabled the iris feature in the menu and it works as is.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I have not called Epson support about the firmware upgrade issue, going to wait until I get the replacement device first. My power issue is different than what CallingMrBenzo describes -- by blue light I mean on the projector itself. Nothing shows on the screen at all when this happens.


----------



## JackB

My Firmware numbers:

Main 8Z009564FNWWV101
Video2 8YL2FLMV100

I assume the 101 stands for Version 1.01.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rcsauvag said:


> jeahrens said:
> 
> 
> 
> No worries! It's a common thing I see pop in the CIH forum. People aren't used to thinking about how zooming to fill wider AR works with regards to what is lit by the panel and what isn't. I mostly see this with people thinking they need to mask a wider screen as they do letterbox bars on a narrow 16:9 screen, when in most cases it isn't really necessary. Just wanted to answer that and make sure folks know that the Epson works very well with wider AR screens.
> 
> 
> 
> Without that masking, can't people see the blank white screen?
Click to expand...

I have a Black Velvet Room do to my obsession with the blacker the theater the better the image. So quite honestly I didn't really notice any difference by blanking out the top and bottom between what it looks like with the masking panels off and blanking out the top and bottom and just leaving it the way it was before. I have masking panels for the top and bottom for scope movies and they make a significant difference in the contrast on the screen.


----------



## jeahrens

JackB said:


> I'll have to test your theory of the white part not showing up by implementing the "blanking" feature. If it works that would save a lot of effort masking the letterbox area on a 16x9 screen.


I'm sorry I must not have explained myself well enough. You *DO* want to use masking on a 16:9 screen when showing wider AR material. The letterboxed area is lit by "black" pixels on the panel. This is the same as digital blanking and the perceived contrast will suffer because the pixel don't really get to full black.

When you show 16:9 material on a scope screen it fills the height in the center portion of the screen. The unused areas on the sides, the pillarboxed areas, are NOT lit by the panel. Therefore they don't impact perceived contrast or really need to be masked.


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have a Black Velvet Room do to my obsession with the blacker the theater the better the image. So quite honestly I didn't really notice any difference by blanking out the top and bottom between what it looks like with the masking panels off and blanking out the top and bottom and just leaving it the way it was before. I have masking panels for the top and bottom for scope movies and they make a significant difference in the contrast on the screen.


Blanking is digitally forcing the pixels to black (it's not mechanically blocking light or turning part of the panel off), which won't be any different with regards to letterboxed bars which are already black. That's why you won't see a difference. You are correctly masking them which does indeed improved perceived contrast.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Black Velvet Room do to my obsession with the blacker the theater the better the image. So quite honestly I didn't really notice any difference by blanking out the top and bottom between what it looks like with the masking panels off and blanking out the top and bottom and just leaving it the way it was before. I have masking panels for the top and bottom for scope movies and they make a significant difference in the contrast on the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Blanking is digitally forcing the pixels to black (it's not mechanically blocking light or turning part of the panel off), which won't be any different with regards to letterboxed bars which are already black. That's why you won't see a difference. You are correctly masking them which does indeed improved perceived contrast.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the very detailed explanation. That makes sense to me now that you have explained it. I was hoping it was actually removing a light instead of turning it black.


----------



## Luminated67

jeahrens said:


> Blanking is digitally forcing the pixels to black (it's not mechanically blocking light or turning part of the panel off), which won't be any different with regards to letterboxed bars which are already black. That's why you won't see a difference. You are correctly masking them which does indeed improved perceived contrast.


Thanks for explaining this as I honestly thought is was turning off the pixels in the area you were blanking.


----------



## jeahrens

Well blanking (JVC calls it masking) can be a nice feature for those of us that use zoom/lens memory for a wider aspect ratio screen. It can keep the menus of a disc from spilling onto the wall. It can also crop shifting AR films and force them into the wider ARs viewable area.


----------



## snookfisher

Ive found a great deal on the 5050UBE from a local guy...unopened in the box. claims he is a reviewer and this is extra....if I buy it from him can I still register it for warranty? its a smoking deal $2000 Im tempted but it almost sounds to good to be true?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

snookfisher said:


> Ive found a great deal on the 5050UBE from a local guy...unopened in the box. claims he is a reviewer and this is extra....if I buy it from him can I still register it for warranty? its a smoking deal $2000 Im tempted but it almost sounds to good to be true?




Seems shady. Doesn’t a warranty requires proof of purchase? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Seems shady. Doesn’t a warranty requires proof of purchase?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I’ve been down this road and Epson would not warranty my projector. Be careful.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MidnightWatcher

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Seems shady. Doesn’t a warranty requires proof of purchase?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


And aren't reviewers supposed to send product back after a certain period?


----------



## doublehelixd

I have seen a couple of places where the Epson 6050 dynamic contrast ratio was quoted at 1,200,000 as opposed to 1,000,000 with the Epson 5050. If there are no major hardware changes between these 2 models, what would account for this?
Thank you.


----------



## JewDaddy

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

Looks like my Xbox is not recognizing 4K HDR gaming. I had to change the EDID from expanded to Normal just so I could get a display from the Xbox. Once I did that, this is what was shown. Any ideas? 

Btw, I’ve used this same exact setup with a 5040 and a Linker and got all the checkboxes except for the Dolby Vision. 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ricwhite

doublehelixd said:


> I have seen a couple of places where the Epson 6050 dynamic contrast ratio was quoted at 1,200,000 as opposed to 1,000,000 with the Epson 5050. If there are no major hardware changes between these 2 models, what would account for this?
> Thank you.


There are no hardware differences between the 5000 and the 6000 series other than the case is black instead of white. The difference is in software, warranty, and accessories. There should be no difference in specs. But the 6000 series that I own (6010) has some additional calibration modes in the software, came with a ceiling mount and an extra bulb, and offered 1 extra year on the warranty - all for about $1,000 more. If you add everything up, it is likely worth $1,000. I got the 6000 series mainly because I wanted the black case.


----------



## robl2

carmona said:


> When using this Epson 5050 projector with an Oppo 203 player, what are the required/best video output settings on the Oppo 203 to achieve the finest viewing of content...streaming, dvd, blu ray, 4k/hdr disc etc.?





termite said:


> I'm interested in the answer to this also.. particularly 4K HDR with Oppo 203 & Epson 5050ub..


Same. I'm contemplating getting a 5050UB, but have to stick with my UDP-203. Anyone have this combination?


----------



## big_k

Can anyone tell me if the epson 5050ub is dual voltage? I know there is an EU model but maybe they just changed the name.


I need a dual voltage projector since I'm living in EU for 3 years and don't want to have to sell my projector when I return to the US


----------



## doublehelixd

ricwhite said:


> There are no hardware differences between the 5000 and the 6000 series other than the case is black instead of white. The difference is in software, warranty, and accessories. There should be no difference in specs. But the 6000 series that I own (6010) has some additional calibration modes in the software, came with a ceiling mount and an extra bulb, and offered 1 extra year on the warranty - all for about $1,000 more. If you add everything up, it is likely worth $1,000. I got the 6000 series mainly because I wanted the black case.


Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

snookfisher said:


> Ive found a great deal on the 5050UBE from a local guy...unopened in the box. claims he is a reviewer and this is extra....if I buy it from him can I still register it for warranty? its a smoking deal $2000 Im tempted but it almost sounds to good to be true?


Like my grandfather always said when something sounds too good to be true that's because usually it is. You can call Epson before you buy but I doubt highly they will honor a warranty once the projector has been sold on the secondary Market which would be the case with the reviewers attempting to sell it to you. My understanding is they would only honor the warranty for the original purchaser or to whom they gave it to 2 review


----------



## skylarlove1999

I am having some issues with my 5050. Most troubling is the picture staying locked to HDR COLOR FORMATS when switching to SDR content and vice versa, destroying the color and contrast. Now the picture looks like this on my Roku Ultra player menu. I am beyond frustrated at this point. Spoke with a projector specialist at Epson who thinks it is a handshake issue and would like me to test out some things and get back to him. I am not a paid beta tester for this projector but I am starting to feel like one. Also upon shutting down the projector I hear a clearly audible plastic rubbing on plastic sound. The gentleman wants me to hold the lens cover open and see if the sound still occurs because he thinks it might be the fan just simply winding down. Then I can start my testing on the handshake issues. If anyone is familiar with the Roku home screen Vudu and prime should be blue and Showtime red. There also should not be a black lane down the center of the home screen nor should there be wavy lines on the aps on the home screen. I am already using a Fiber Optic HDMI cable from Furui that worked fine with the 5040ub. I also tested my Copper Hdmi cable and it exhibits the same issue. I am going to try taking the Denon 4300 AVR out of the signal path by connecting the Roku and the Panasonic ub820 directly to the Epson 5050ub using the Fiber Optic HDMI cable.


----------



## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Looks like my Xbox is not recognizing 4K HDR gaming. I had to change the EDID from expanded to Normal just so I could get a display from the Xbox. Once I did that, this is what was shown. Any ideas?
> 
> Btw, I’ve used this same exact setup with a 5040 and a Linker and got all the checkboxes except for the Dolby Vision.
> 
> View attachment 2557356
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What’s the length of your HDMI cable, I’m guessing upwards of 10 meters or more. If so then chances are it’s your cable, I know they all claim 4K but over such distances it’s almost always the cable at fault.

The only solution is an Opti-HDMI, Amazon do them and even the cheaper ones work a treat.... ok cheap is a relative word but you can spend silly money on these things if you want.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am having some issues with my 5050. Most troubling is the picture staying locked to HDR COLOR FORMATS when switching to SDR content and vice versa, destroying the color and contrast. Now the picture looks like this on my Roku Ultra player menu. I am beyond frustrated at this point. Spoke with a projector specialist at Epson who thinks it is a handshake issue and would like me to test out some things and get back to him. I am not a paid beta tester for this projector but I am starting to feel like one. Also upon shutting down the projector I hear a clearly audible plastic rubbing on plastic sound. The gentleman wants me to hold the lens cover open and see if the sound still occurs because he thinks it might be the fan just simply winding down. Then I can start my testing on the handshake issues. If anyone is familiar with the Roku home screen Vudu and prime should be blue and Showtime red. There also should not be a black lane down the center of the home screen nor should there be wavy lines on the aps on the home screen.


What resolution of PJ had you before this, over in the UK we have seen all kinds of weird sh1t with people upgrading to these high HDR 4:4:4 12 bit projectors and a lot of the times the issue has been cable. Not claiming this is what’s causing this particular problem but I’d order an Opti-HDMI from Amazon to see if it cures it, if it doesn’t just return it no hassle, what harm can it do.

Don’t know anything about the plastic on plastic noise you are hearing, on shut down all I hear is the lens covering over and all the other usual noises PJs do when turning off.


----------



## Alaric

big_k said:


> Can anyone tell me if the epson 5050ub is dual voltage? I know there is an EU model but maybe they just changed the name.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need a dual voltage projector since I'm living in EU for 3 years and don't want to have to sell my projector when I return to the US


The TW9400 is from what I recall as i looked for someone when the 5050 wasn't out and people were getting impatient! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am having some issues with my 5050. Most troubling is the picture staying locked to HDR COLOR FORMATS when switching to SDR content and vice versa, destroying the color and contrast. Now the picture looks like this on my Roku Ultra player menu. I am beyond frustrated at this point. Spoke with a projector specialist at Epson who thinks it is a handshake issue and would like me to test out some things and get back to him. I am not a paid beta tester for this projector but I am starting to feel like one. Also upon shutting down the projector I hear a clearly audible plastic rubbing on plastic sound. The gentleman wants me to hold the lens cover open and see if the sound still occurs because he thinks it might be the fan just simply winding down. Then I can start my testing on the handshake issues. If anyone is familiar with the Roku home screen Vudu and prime should be blue and Showtime red. There also should not be a black lane down the center of the home screen nor should there be wavy lines on the aps on the home screen.
> 
> 
> 
> What resolution of PJ had you before this, over in the UK we have seen all kinds of weird sh1t with people upgrading to these high HDR 4:4:4 12 bit projectors and a lot of the times the issue has been cable. Not claiming this is what’s causing this particular problem but I’d order an Opti-HDMI from Amazon to see if it cures it, if it doesn’t just return it no hassle, what harm can it do.
> 
> Don’t know anything about the plastic on plastic noise you are hearing, on shut down all I hear is the lens covering over and all the other usual noises PJs do when turning off.
Click to expand...

Thanks Luminated67. I just edited my post to include the fact that I am already using a Furui HDMI Fiber Optic cable. It worked fine with my Epson 5040ub. I am frustrated after having two 5040s fail in the last 18 months due to power supply issues.


----------



## VideoDrone

Gellert said:


> Having bought a new 5050ub just 13 days ago from Crutchfield, I wrote their sales Dept if they can offer me a refund or "in-store credit" for the $200 I overpaid. I still have it in the box, unopened.


Thanks all, got my refund also, very easy and pleasant. FYI they refund difference from 60 days of purchase, so keep watching. Great Policy. 

Do any of you guys remember back in the old days when you called various "stores" typically out of NY city, they were some of the rudest/shaddest salesmen in the world. The would hang up on you, put you hold forever, take your order and then tell you its out of stock and to put icing on the cake refuse to give you a refund!!! ..LOL


----------



## skylarlove1999

VideoDrone said:


> Gellert said:
> 
> 
> 
> Having bought a new 5050ub just 13 days ago from Crutchfield, I wrote their sales Dept if they can offer me a refund or "in-store credit" for the $200 I overpaid. I still have it in the box, unopened.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks all, got my refund also, very easy and pleasant. FYI they refund difference from 60 days of purchase, so keep watching. Great Policy.
> 
> Do any of you guys remember back in the old days when you called various "stores" typically out of NY city, they were some of the rudest/shaddest salesmen in the world. The would hang up on you, put you hold forever, take your order and then tell you its out of stock and to put icing on the cake refuse to give you a refund!!! ..LOL
Click to expand...

As a lifelong Crutchfield customer I can attest to they live this motto my grandfather used to say 

" Take great care of your customers or someone else will."

Bill Crutchfield believes the same thing about his employees. He really treats them like family. I believe this is why his employees do the same with customers. They never made me feel like a nuisance. I was. I have really high standards for AV Products and for customer service. Some would say unreasonably so. Crutchfield never made me feel that way. I am glad to say I am a Crutchfield fan for life.


----------



## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> What’s the length of your HDMI cable, I’m guessing upwards of 10 meters or more. If so then chances are it’s your cable, I know they all claim 4K but over such distances it’s almost always the cable at fault.
> 
> 
> 
> The only solution is an Opti-HDMI, Amazon do them and even the cheaper ones work a treat.... ok cheap is a relative word but you can spend silly money on these things if you want.




Well normally I would agree that it’s a cable issue but it worked perfect with my 5040 and Linker. I would get all checkmarks and 4K HDR gaming. I can’t imagine all of a sudden the cable is bad or can’t pass that signal over a certain distance. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

Got my replacement 5050 and so far everything looks good. I also got my UB-820 and must agree very cheap feeling player. It’s smaller than the DMP 900 has a ****ty remote, weaker power supply, physical buttons versus touch. It does have the HDR Optimizer and ability to stream HDR and Atmos. I can’t believe how much I miss the other remote. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> What’s the length of your HDMI cable, I’m guessing upwards of 10 meters or more. If so then chances are it’s your cable, I know they all claim 4K but over such distances it’s almost always the cable at fault.
> 
> 
> 
> The only solution is an Opti-HDMI, Amazon do them and even the cheaper ones work a treat.... ok cheap is a relative word but you can spend silly money on these things if you want.




Alright. So I tried your theory although I used a different brand cable. Brand new out of the box Insignia HDMI cable with 4K Ethernet. Says on the back that it’s a full 18gps speed and supports 4K HDR and all that Jazz. Went directly from the projector into my Xbox one x with the 12 ft hdmi and same results. No 4K HDR gaming. I have no idea what to do right now. It’s like fighting the same battle I fought with my 5040..... 

If anyone has been able to get all the checkmarks with their one x, please share your story or some tips. Lol. Thanks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

Update. Looks like it was the cable. I won’t go through the whole story but I found out the reason why it wasn’t showing all the checkmarks with the 12ft HDMI was due to the Range not being set to Expanded. Once I changed to Expanded, all the checkmarks popped up. I know for sure that it’s the 50ft cable and not the receive because I ran the 50ft HDMI cable directly from the Projector to the Xbox and it still wasn’t working. Went back to the 12ft and it worked. Looks like I’m on an HDMI hunt tomorrow. Thanks for the help!

**UPDATE**

So it most definitely is the cable. I had a 25ft high speed HDMI cable in my Vr room that I borrowed for this experiment. Took that 25ft HDMI, ran it from the projector into my receiver and VOILA! All checkmarks on the Xbox one X. I can attest to anyone else experiencing this issue that even if your cable worked in the past with a different setup, that doesn’t mean it will work with this new Epson. Sucks I have to buy and run a new HDMI cable but at least knowing what the issue is has been solved. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mhutchins

Wow, I'm really surprised at the number of teething problems with the 5050UB, especially since the US release was delayed for so long after the TW9400. People have had:



 HDMI handshake and/or EDID problems
 Picture modes that require unplugging the projector to reset
 Inability to update firmware
 Rubbing sounds on shutdown
 
Just guessing here, but it sounds like the power supply interface and the HDMI interface are not playing well with the rest of the projector. Right now I'm sorta glad I opted to wait a few months before upgrading to this projector. I sure hope Epson can get these issues worked out quickly, or they may face significant market backlash.

Mike


----------



## JewDaddy

mhutchins said:


> Wow, I'm really surprised at the number of teething problems with the 5050UB, especially since the US release was delayed for so long after the TW9400. People have had:
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI handshake and/or EDID problems
> Picture modes that require unplugging the projector to reset
> Inability to update firmware
> Rubbing sounds on shutdown
> 
> Just guessing here, but it sounds like the power supply interface and the HDMI interface are not playing well with the rest of the projector. Right now I'm sorta glad I opted to wait a few months before upgrading to this projector. I sure hope Epson can get these issues worked out quickly, or they may face significant market backlash.
> 
> Mike




Just so you know and for everyone else too, I called Epson today about the firmware update issue. The person I spoke to went through all the steps with me which I had already done numerous times. Still didn’t work. Guess what? They offered me a replacement. I’ve had this for not even a full 48 hours yet. Lol

If they’re offering full replacements on a firmware update not working, this is not a good sign of things to come. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## AVpassion7

big_k said:


> Can anyone tell me if the epson 5050ub is dual voltage? I know there is an EU model but maybe they just changed the name.


I’m interested in this too. Can any owners of the 5050UB please check if this is dual voltage? (accepts 110v - 240v) Thanks.


----------



## Luminated67

mhutchins said:


> Wow, I'm really surprised at the number of teething problems with the 5050UB, especially since the US release was delayed for so long after the TW9400. People have had:
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI handshake and/or EDID problems
> Picture modes that require unplugging the projector to reset
> Inability to update firmware
> Rubbing sounds on shutdown
> 
> Just guessing here, but it sounds like the power supply interface and the HDMI interface are not playing well with the rest of the projector. Right now I'm sorta glad I opted to wait a few months before upgrading to this projector. I sure hope Epson can get these issues worked out quickly, or they may face significant market backlash.
> 
> Mike


I think if you guys went to the AVForum where the TW9400 has been out for a few months you would get almost all of these difficulties answered.

Issue #1 & 2 has almost always been the result of lengths greater than 24ft cables that aren’t up to the job, the switch to an Opti-HDMI has cured these.

Firmware issues has been discussed there too and has been addressed, can’t recall exactly what you have to do but it’s all down to the USB stick used and if it has any addition software on it. @Alaric can answer this as I think it was he who helped myself and some others on this issue.

Finally this rubbing noise needs to be videoed and put on here so those that have had the projector for months can see if it’s an unusual noise or something that’s normal.


----------



## Alaric

Luminated67 said:


> I think if you guys went to the AVForum where the TW9400 has been out for a few months you would get almost all of these difficulties answered.
> 
> 
> 
> Issue #1 & 2 has almost always been the result of lengths greater than 24ft cables that aren’t up to the job, the switch to an Opti-HDMI has cured these.
> 
> 
> 
> Firmware issues has been discussed there too and has been addressed, can’t recall exactly what you have to do but it’s all down to the USB stick used and if it has any addition software on it. @Alaric can answer this as I think it was he who helped myself and some others on this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally this rubbing noise needs to be videoed and put on here so those that have had the projector for months can see if it’s an unusual noise or something that’s normal.


The cable stuff is down to older projectors only being 10gb HDMI and that there seems to lot of cables that Claim all sorts of wonderful things which are typically marketing.
I grabbed a certified cable early on and that not been an issue. The amount of times I have seen "It's definitely not the cable".... "Oh wait it was the cable". 
The other thing that crops up is amps / players up scaling and settings......think the worst one was a HTPC user that needed to play with the graphics card stuff as he had a strange purple cast.... Doing a quick Google search and it's a common problem with crossing colour formats / depth etc 

The PJ itself works fine, it just needs feeding the right signal. 

As for the firmware update.... I've yet to see ANYONE update a 5050. I tried working through most of the things with someone on here a few days ago. The update procedure is the same as previous Epsons and there are a few caveats, fat32 works, the USB drive being blank and not having hidden security directories, in fact a cheap one is better than posh branded stuff here. Unzipped, root directory. Hold power button, plug in and 5mins latter sorted! 
About the only thing we found it does is FI/4k on a 1080p signal (not upscaled!) 

However after working through this lot i didn't succeed in helping and looking at the zip file the firmware appeared the same file as the TW9400 one which may be a universal world update? 
I've yet to check if the 4050 file is the same, as the tw7400 is the same as the TW9400, if it is then world update and it should work..... If they are different then I'd guess that epson have the wrong file linked and need a kick!

edit -

Interesting. The firmware page I found for the 5050 is https://epson.com/Support/wa00805

The download is EPSONPJ_t5uL101.bin and 35,607KB and covers the 4010/4050

The TW9400 is also called EPSONPJ_t5uL101.bin however it is in a zip file, along with the PDF of how to (no release notes alas), but the file size is 44,316KB

There *IS* some form of difference, strange that they are the same name though.


----------



## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> I think if you guys went to the AVForum where the TW9400 has been out for a few months you would get almost all of these difficulties answered.
> 
> 
> 
> Issue #1 & 2 has almost always been the result of lengths greater than 24ft cables that aren’t up to the job, the switch to an Opti-HDMI has cured these.
> 
> 
> 
> Firmware issues has been discussed there too and has been addressed, can’t recall exactly what you have to do but it’s all down to the USB stick used and if it has any addition software on it. @Alaric can answer this as I think it was he who helped myself and some others on this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally this rubbing noise needs to be videoed and put on here so those that have had the projector for months can see if it’s an unusual noise or something that’s normal.




I appreciate your help on this. I truly didn’t believe it would be my cable because it worked just fine with my 5040 and Linker. Oh well, just glad I got it figured out. I do have a question. Well, more like a favor. Can you post a link to one of these opti-hdmi cables on amazon? I tried finding one and I don’t think I was searching correctly. Thanks again!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am having some issues with my 5050. Most troubling is the picture staying locked to HDR COLOR FORMATS when switching to SDR content and vice versa, destroying the color and contrast. Now the picture looks like this on my Roku Ultra player menu. I am beyond frustrated at this point. Spoke with a projector specialist at Epson who thinks it is a handshake issue and would like me to test out some things and get back to him. I am not a paid beta tester for this projector but I am starting to feel like one. Also upon shutting down the projector I hear a clearly audible plastic rubbing on plastic sound. The gentleman wants me to hold the lens cover open and see if the sound still occurs because he thinks it might be the fan just simply winding down. Then I can start my testing on the handshake issues. If anyone is familiar with the Roku home screen Vudu and prime should be blue and Showtime red. There also should not be a black lane down the center of the home screen nor should there be wavy lines on the aps on the home screen. I am already using a Fiber Optic HDMI cable from Furui that worked fine with the 5040ub. I also tested my Copper Hdmi cable and it exhibits the same issue. I am going to try taking the Denon 4300 AVR out of the signal path by connecting the Roku and the Panasonic ub820 directly to the Epson 5050ub using the Fiber Optic HDMI cable.


UPDATE:

Took the Denon 4300 AVR out of the signal path and the HDR/SDR signal lock issue no longer exists. But I kind of want to watch movies with sound so hopefully Epson can figure out what is causing the handshake issue with the AVR. A new AVR is not in the budget at this time and I love my sound after Jeff Meier calibrated last September. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think if you guys went to the AVForum where the TW9400 has been out for a few months you would get almost all of these difficulties answered.
> 
> 
> 
> Issue #1 & 2 has almost always been the result of lengths greater than 24ft cables that aren’t up to the job, the switch to an Opti-HDMI has cured these.
> 
> 
> 
> Firmware issues has been discussed there too and has been addressed, can’t recall exactly what you have to do but it’s all down to the USB stick used and if it has any addition software on it. @Alaric can answer this as I think it was he who helped myself and some others on this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally this rubbing noise needs to be videoed and put on here so those that have had the projector for months can see if it’s an unusual noise or something that’s normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate your help on this. I truly didn’t believe it would be my cable because it worked just fine with my 5040 and Linker. Oh well, just glad I got it figured out. I do have a question. Well, more like a favor. Can you post a link to one of these opti-hdmi cables on amazon? I tried finding one and I don’t think I was searching correctly. Thanks again!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

This is the one I purchased a month ago and definitely improved color contrast and sharpness on picture. Audio is a broader more defined sound field with greater high fidelity.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07LD4FP5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1PQTFLDAVXKKK&psc=1


----------



## --Sclaws

Alaric said:


> As for the firmware update.... I've yet to see ANYONE update a 5050. I tried working through most of the things with someone on here a few days ago. The update procedure is the same as previous Epsons and there are a few caveats, fat32 works, the USB drive being blank and not having hidden security directories, in fact a cheap one is better than posh branded stuff here. Unzipped, root directory. Hold power button, plug in and 5mins latter sorted!
> About the only thing we found it does is FI/4k on a 1080p signal (not upscaled!)


I found another firmware update procedure from previous HC projectors, and this is not the instructions pdf posted with the firmware update on Epson's site for the 5050. Not sure if this procedure is better, different, or does not apply in this case, but I've attached the pdf. Might try it myself tonight.


----------



## Alaric

--Sclaws said:


> I found another firmware update procedure from previous HC projectors, and this is not the instructions pdf posted with the firmware update on Epson's site for the 5050. Not sure if this procedure is better, different, or does not apply in this case, but I've attached the pdf. Might try it myself tonight.


Interesting.... It uses a PC rather than a USB stick. It would rule out the IS the PJ seeing the file issue.
Easy enough to test if it would work as the folder would show up on the PC.
Alas no terminal with error or confirmation though. 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> I appreciate your help on this. I truly didn’t believe it would be my cable because it worked just fine with my 5040 and Linker. Oh well, just glad I got it figured out. I do have a question. Well, more like a favor. Can you post a link to one of these opti-hdmi cables on amazon? I tried finding one and I don’t think I was searching correctly. Thanks again!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


In Amazon UK they are called Opti-HDMI but just checked and it’s called Fibre HDMI in the US site. There’s loads of them.

This is mine

https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-4k-Op...bre+hdmi+10m&qid=1556112665&s=gateway&sr=8-16


----------



## JackB

jeahrens said:


> Blanking is digitally forcing the pixels to black (it's not mechanically blocking light or turning part of the panel off), which won't be any different with regards to letterboxed bars which are already black. That's why you won't see a difference. You are correctly masking them which does indeed improved perceived contrast.


You are right. I tired the blanking feature. It barely shows a difference. Not enough to go through the bother. My DIY masking system is less effort and much more effective.

My biggest issue is figuring out how to make all the operating features come together. After loading Alaric's settings for both HDR and SDR I saved both in Mem 1 & 2 and then pressed some button and lost the picture and I couldn't figure out how to get it back. Will start over this afternoon.


----------



## ScudDawg

JackB said:


> You are right. I tired the blanking feature. It barely shows a difference. Not enough to go through the bother. My DIY masking system is less effort and much more effective.
> 
> My biggest issue is figuring out how to make all the operating features come together. After loading Alaric's settings for both HDR and SDR I saved both in Mem 1 & 2 and then pressed some button and lost the picture and I couldn't figure out how to get it back. Will start over this afternoon.


Where are the settings posted by Alaric?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

ScudDawg said:


> Where are the settings posted by Alaric?




AVForums under his signature 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ScudDawg

CallingMrBenzo said:


> AVForums under his signature
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Cool, thank you.


----------



## ScudDawg

ScudDawg said:


> Cool, thank you.


Still cannot find it, oh well.


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> AVForums under his signature
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Though doesn’t show up if using an iPhone.


----------



## ScudDawg

I think I found something for a TW9400, nothing for the 5050


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

ScudDawg said:


> I think I found something for a TW9400, nothing for the 5050




Perhaps one of us when we aren’t being too lazy can hop on the computer and post them. I too generally am on the phone. Once I get my wireless dongle for the MiniDSP I’ll be on the laptop more. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ScudDawg

No worries, waiting for UPS now, taking my 5040ub down very soon.


----------



## groggrog

Luminated67 said:


> I think if you guys went to the AVForum where the TW9400 has been out for a few months you would get almost all of these difficulties answered.
> 
> Issue [URL=https://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1]#1 [/URL] & 2 has almost always been the result of lengths greater than 24ft cables that aren’t up to the job, the switch to an Opti-HDMI has cured these.
> 
> Firmware issues has been discussed there too and has been addressed, can’t recall exactly what you have to do but it’s all down to the USB stick used and if it has any addition software on it. @*Alaric* can answer this as I think it was he who helped myself and some others on this issue.
> 
> Finally this rubbing noise needs to be videoed and put on here so those that have had the projector for months can see if it’s an unusual noise or something that’s normal.



For #1 with HDMI handshake issues, I'm using an HDMI/Optical extender and not a standard HDMI cable. Since it's running over a ceiling I put in an optical extender where there's a device on both ends to convert from optical to HDMI. Replacing that with an optical cable won't do, so I'm working with the vendor of the extender to help figure out why there are handshake issues with the Epson 5050. So far they've discovered that the projector is sending an "I'm ready" signal before it's actually ready, which causes the HDMI connection to AVR to read a bunch of garbled nonsense from it and it never completes a handshake. They have reached out to Epson's product group in hopes of a fix.


For #2 with requiring an unplug/replug at startup, it's nothing to do with picture modes at all. There is no video at all when that happens, which is every time I start the projector. I have to unplug it and then replug it, then when I power it on it starts normally, regardless of what picture mode I'm using.


Still stuck on firmware update and suspecting the one published for the 5050 isn't really for the 5050 based on some of the speculation written here.


----------



## Luminated67

groggrog said:


> For #1 with HDMI handshake issues, I'm using an HDMI/Optical extender and not a standard HDMI cable. Since it's running over a ceiling I put in an optical extender where there's a device on both ends to convert from optical to HDMI. Replacing that with an optical cable won't do, so I'm working with the vendor of the extender to help figure out why there are handshake issues with the Epson 5050. So far they've discovered that the projector is sending an "I'm ready" signal before it's actually ready, which causes the HDMI connection to AVR to read a bunch of garbled nonsense from it and it never completes a handshake. They have reached out to Epson's product group in hopes of a fix.
> 
> 
> For [URL=https://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2]#2 [/URL] with requiring an unplug/replug at startup, it's nothing to do with picture modes at all. There is no video at all when that happens, which is every time I start the projector. I have to unplug it and then replug it, then when I power it on it starts normally, regardless of what picture mode I'm using.
> 
> 
> Still stuck on firmware update and suspecting the one published for the 5050 isn't really for the 5050 based on some of the speculation written here.


All I am suggesting is try the Fibre HDMI, order it from Amazon and if it works great then you know the issue is the optical extender and you can at least show the vendor that it’s a problem with there gear. You have the option at this point to return the cable back to Amazon for a refund or keep it.

This issue #2 could still be connected to a problem with the cable.

What’s the worst that can happen ordering a cable to see, if it doesn’t work you just return it for a full refund.


----------



## groggrog

Luminated67 said:


> All I am suggesting is try the Fibre HDMI, order it from Amazon and if it works great then you know the issue is the optical extender and you can at least show the vendor that it’s a problem with there gear. You have the option at this point to return the cable back to Amazon for a refund or keep it.
> 
> This issue #2 could still be connected to a problem with the cable.
> 
> What’s the worst that can happen ordering a cable to see, if it doesn’t work you just return it for a full refund.



I've already run a standard 24 foot HDMI cable from AVR to projector in place of the optical extender and it works fine so it's definitely something with the extender and the Epson. The power issue remains even with the standard HDMI cable when the extender isn't even attached.


----------



## Brian18

skylarlove1999 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am having some issues with my 5050. Most troubling is the picture staying locked to HDR COLOR FORMATS when switching to SDR content and vice versa, destroying the color and contrast. Now the picture looks like this on my Roku Ultra player menu. I am beyond frustrated at this point. Spoke with a projector specialist at Epson who thinks it is a handshake issue and would like me to test out some things and get back to him. I am not a paid beta tester for this projector but I am starting to feel like one. Also upon shutting down the projector I hear a clearly audible plastic rubbing on plastic sound. The gentleman wants me to hold the lens cover open and see if the sound still occurs because he thinks it might be the fan just simply winding down. Then I can start my testing on the handshake issues. If anyone is familiar with the Roku home screen Vudu and prime should be blue and Showtime red. There also should not be a black lane down the center of the home screen nor should there be wavy lines on the aps on the home screen. I am already using a Fiber Optic HDMI cable from Furui that worked fine with the 5040ub. I also tested my Copper Hdmi cable and it exhibits the same issue. I am going to try taking the Denon 4300 AVR out of the signal path by connecting the Roku and the Panasonic ub820 directly to the Epson 5050ub using the Fiber Optic HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> 
> UPDATE:
> 
> Took the Denon 4300 AVR out of the signal path and the HDR/SDR signal lock issue no longer exists. But I kind of want to watch movies with sound so hopefully Epson can figure out what is causing the handshake issue with the AVR. A new AVR is not in the budget at this time and I love my sound after Jeff Meier calibrated last September. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...


I'm not using a 5050ub but I had issues going thru an x4400 what had to be done on the avr was under the video settings change 4k to extended turn off video conversion and most important to turn off auto hdmi that worked for me


----------



## Luminated67

groggrog said:


> I've already run a standard 24 foot HDMI cable from AVR to projector in place of the optical extender and it works fine so it's definitely something with the extender and the Epson. The power issue remains even with the standard HDMI cable when the extender isn't even attached.


Fare enough, as long as you have tried something other than the extender.


----------



## ckronengold

I plugged in @Alaric's settings to get started. 
Just curious if anyone else has other settings worth trying. 

I'm not in love with the image that I'm getting from an nVidia Shield through my Marantz 7010, but both the Shield and the Epson 5050 are new, so I'm juggling more variables than I should be.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

What is your screen size and how is your room set up as far as ambient light goes. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## txgriz

Just FYI for those of you searching for Opti-HDMI cables. Read the tech specs closely. Not all of the Opti-HDMI cables support HDR10, ie 4K, 60Hz, 4/4/4 10-bit color. The cable I ordered is in the 150-200 range claims to support this. Many of the ones in the 60-100 range only support 4/2/0 at 60Hz.

Edit: I went with RUIPRO HDMI Fiber Cable (ISTLPRO-15M) from Amazon.


----------



## groggrog

ckronengold said:


> I plugged in @*Alaric* 's settings to get started.
> Just curious if anyone else has other settings worth trying.
> 
> I'm not in love with the image that I'm getting from an nVidia Shield through my Marantz 7010, but both the Shield and the Epson 5050 are new, so I'm juggling more variables than I should be.



I'm really happy with most of the default picture settings. I just changed Iris to Auto, color space to Dynamic, and the other thing (not at the projector now. Fan speed??) to High and picture looks great to me. Have tried settings from Alaric and others and always find them too dark, at least in my environment.


----------



## JackB

ScudDawg said:


> Still cannot find it, oh well.


https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home


----------



## ezelkow1

ScudDawg said:


> I think I found something for a TW9400, nothing for the 5050


same thing


----------



## Luminated67

ckronengold said:


> I plugged in @Alaric's settings to get started.
> Just curious if anyone else has other settings worth trying.
> 
> I'm not in love with the image that I'm getting from an nVidia Shield through my Marantz 7010, but both the Shield and the Epson 5050 are new, so I'm juggling more variables than I should be.


^@Alaric himself will tell you two setup no matter how similar will not be the same, both my room and Alaric’s have black velour on the walls and ceiling but has screen is 20% bigger than mine and is projecting from a greater distance so I have had to tweak the settings slightly to suit.

One thing I have been told countless times is a calibrated system looks dull to begin with but as your brain gets use to the change you will start to notice the improvements across colours, light and shade and the detail of detail.

P.S. Just thought I’d share the benefits of an Opti-HDMI compared to a bloody expensive regular cable, my original 10 meter HDMI was a QED Reference which was 4K certified which I got out of storage just to see if it would be able to throw a 4K image, well to my surprise it did, no handshake issue or anything though at almost £179 at time of purchase you would expect it to do the job. Though the more I looked at the image from my UHD disc the more I thought to myself this doesn’t look as good and sure enough I went into the info section of the projector menu and it was only throwing a 4:2:2 signal at 10bit compared to the Opti cable’s 4:4:4 12bit.

Not only has technology moved on but this tech is available at a fraction of the price.


----------



## ScudDawg

ezelkow1 said:


> same thing


Okay, thank you.


----------



## VideoDrone

Luminated67 said:


> In Amazon UK they are called Opti-HDMI but just checked and it’s called Fibre HDMI in the US site. There’s loads of them.
> 
> This is mine
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-4k-Op...bre+hdmi+10m&qid=1556112665&s=gateway&sr=8-16


I have a 50' Fibre HDMI and it delivers 4k HDR without issue, love it


----------



## ckronengold

Luminated67 said:


> ^@Alaric himself will tell you two setup no matter how similar will not be the same, both my room and Alaric’s have black velour on the walls and ceiling but has screen is 20% bigger than mine and is projecting from a greater distance so I have had to tweak the settings slightly to suit.
> 
> One thing I have been told countless times is a calibrated system looks dull to begin with but as your brain gets use to the change you will start to notice the improvements across colours, light and shade and the detail of detail.


Totally with you there. I'm coming from an Epson 5030 that never saw any other mode except Cinema or THX. Most people that saw it for the first time always thought it would be brighter. But I'm in a completely blacked out basement, so light isn't an issue. I just expected to see more "wow" from the 5050 when I set it up. I watched Black Panther, Baywatch, Last Jedi and some Planet Earth, and wasn't feeling like I made a huge improvement over the 5030. 

Like I said, though, I've got the nVidia Shield video options to deal with as well, and there's no shortage of complaints over in those forums. [/QUOTE] 



Luminated67 said:


> P.S. Just thought I’d share the benefits of an Opti-HDMI compared to a bloody expensive regular cable, my original 10 meter HDMI was a QED Reference which was 4K certified which I got out of storage just to see if it would be able to throw a 4K image, well to my surprise it did, no handshake issue or anything though at almost £179 at time of purchase you would expect it to do the job. Though the more I looked at the image from my UHD disc the more I thought to myself this doesn’t look as good and sure enough I went into the info section of the projector menu and it was only throwing a 4:2:2 signal at 10bit compared to the Opti cable’s 4:4:4 12bit.
> 
> Not only has technology moved on but this tech is available at a fraction of the price.


I'm probably going to grab one of those as well just to eliminate another variable. I have a brand new monoprice DynamicView active HDMI cable that is supposed to handle [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4 at 30ft, but could definitely be a source of a problem. 

Any opti-HDMI that you recommend in particular?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Totally with you there. I'm coming from an Epson 5030 that never saw any other mode except Cinema or THX. Most people that saw it for the first time always thought it would be brighter. But I'm in a completely blacked out basement, so light isn't an issue. I just expected to see more "wow" from the 5050 when I set it up. I watched Black Panther, Baywatch, Last Jedi and some Planet Earth, and wasn't feeling like I made a huge improvement over the 5030. 





I'm probably going to grab one of those as well just to eliminate another variable. I have a brand new monoprice DynamicView active HDMI cable that is supposed to handle [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4 at 30ft, but could definitely be a source of a problem. 

Any opti-HDMI that you recommend in particular?[/QUOTE]

Do you have a 4K disc player or are you streaming 4k through the Shield? I can tell you for anything over 10m/30ft a Fiber Optic Cable ensures you are getting the full signal to the projector. I own the same Monoprice cable and upgraded to this one. Made big difference with audio and video. You have 30 days to return it if you don't discern a difference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07LD4FP5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1PQTFLDAVXKKK&psc=1


----------



## DrJykill

I sent you a DM, but perhaps you would elaborate on the thread about coming from a 5030 (which I currently have) to the 5050 and what you see as being better, not better, etc?


----------



## Jstillen2

Luminated67 said:


> I think if you guys went to the AVForum where the TW9400 has been out for a few months you would get almost all of these difficulties answered.
> 
> Issue #1 & 2 has almost always been the result of lengths greater than 24ft cables that aren’t up to the job, the switch to an Opti-HDMI has cured these.
> 
> Firmware issues has been discussed there too and has been addressed, can’t recall exactly what you have to do but it’s all down to the USB stick used and if it has any addition software on it. @Alaric can answer this as I think it was he who helped myself and some others on this issue.
> 
> Finally this rubbing noise needs to be videoed and put on here so those that have had the projector for months can see if it’s an unusual noise or something that’s normal.


 @Luminated67 - Thanks for the suggestion. Just ordered two of the optic-HDMI's from amazon. Simple return if its a bit overkill


----------



## Jstillen2

*4K Player other than the Panny 820*

Is there any 4K player anyone would recommend to pair with the 5050ub, other than the Panny 820?

I'm hoping the upconversion/tone mapping ability of the 5050ub will be above par [fingers crossed]. That being said, all I'm looking for is a quality 4k disk player. $500 is a bit stout, but if its that or nothing, guess I got to pay to play. 

I've heard the quality of the Sony 700 is trash compared to the Panny 820. But the Sony 700 is only $180. I obviously don't need Dolby Vison with the 5050. 

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


----------



## Gellert1

Jstillen2 said:


> Is there any 4K player anyone would recommend to pair with the 5050ub, other than the Panny 820?
> 
> I'm hoping the upconversion/tone mapping ability of the 5050ub will be above par [fingers crossed]. That being said, all I'm looking for is a quality 4k disk player. $500 is a bit stout, but if its that or nothing, guess I got to pay to play.
> 
> I've heard the quality of the Sony 700 is trash compared to the Panny 820. But the Sony 700 is only $180. I obviously don't need Dolby Vison with the 5050.
> 
> Any suggestions would be much appreciated.



I own that trashy Sony 700. I love the picture quality, 100%. Yes, it's cheaper than the Panasonic. I'm guessing Oppo owners say the Panasonic is trash, too. 

I would like to upgrade to an all-region Sony 4K HDR Blu-ray player soon. Having a player that enables viewing of every manufactured disc worldwide, is much better deal to me than a miniscule upgrade in picture quality that you will never notice in a real world setting.


----------



## ckronengold

skylarlove1999 said:


> Do you have a 4K disc player or are you streaming 4k through the Shield? I can tell you for anything over 10m/30ft a Fiber Optic Cable ensures you are getting the full signal to the projector. I own the same Monoprice cable and upgraded to this one. Made big difference with audio and video. You have 30 days to return it if you don't discern a difference.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07LD4FP5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1PQTFLDAVXKKK&psc=1


I don't have a disc player yet. Trying to figure out what to get on that front. I do most of my watching off of my network, so I was looking for a player that is solid on that front. The Panny 820 is notoriously not great at network playback. So I'm on hold while I do some more research for a network capable disc spinner. 

In the short term, I have a Chromecast Ultra (grabbed for $35), a Roku Ultra ($49 deal), and now the Shield. Neither the Chromecast nor the Roku pass a TrueHD signal, so they weren't going to cut it, even though they can deliver 4k video. So I picked up the Shield to solve the audio problem with my streaming boxes. 

Previously I had been using an Oppo 103, but it can't do anything with a 4k signal. It can only upscale 1080p to 4k, so I'll keep that in my system for my 'regular' blurays.


----------



## Luminated67

Jstillen2 said:


> Is there any 4K player anyone would recommend to pair with the 5050ub, other than the Panny 820?
> 
> I'm hoping the upconversion/tone mapping ability of the 5050ub will be above par [fingers crossed]. That being said, all I'm looking for is a quality 4k disk player. $500 is a bit stout, but if its that or nothing, guess I got to pay to play.
> 
> I've heard the quality of the Sony 700 is trash compared to the Panny 820. But the Sony 700 is only $180. I obviously don't need Dolby Vison with the 5050.
> 
> Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


Complete nonsense, I have both and there’s no real difference in picture quality or sound. One advantage the Sony has over the Panasonic is it’s ability to separate 4K from 1080P, with the Panny when set to Auto resolution it always upscales to 4K but with the Sony in Auto it has a separate sets which allows to either upscale all non 4K material or not, I prefer not as then you have FI on projector and do the upscaling there instead.


----------



## nickoakdl

Luminated67 said:


> Complete nonsense, I have both and there’s no real difference in picture quality or sound. One advantage the Sony has over the Panasonic is it’s ability to separate 4K from 1080P, with the Panny when set to Auto resolution it always upscales to 4K but with the Sony in Auto it has a separate sets which allows to either upscale all non 4K material or not, I prefer not as then you have FI on projector and do the upscaling there instead.


Isn't the obvious difference the Panasonic's HDR optimizer? That's a legit game changer.


----------



## Luminated67

nickoakdl said:


> Isn't the obvious difference the Panasonic's HDR optimizer? That's a legit game changer.


Maybe, though there’s that much adjustment on the HDR slider that I seem to get as good an image without it plus I actually buy more 1080P discs than 4K ones simply because of price.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

I noticed a difference in pic quality coming from my 3 year old Samsung 4K player to the Panasonic DMP-900 now I run the UB-820 all settings in the Epson were the same and I felt like I was getting the most out of the disc it’s hard to explain. I certainly preferred the network experience on the Samsung but the Panasonic has HDR and Atmos with Netflix and Amazon

I will say though I tried to watch Bosch on Amazon and while the info on Amazon said I was watching HDR the Epson wasn’t seeing HDR and was rec 709 and SDR. Albert annoying since YouTube plays HDR and Netflix worked fine. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jstillen2

Luminated67 said:


> Complete nonsense, I have both and there’s no real difference in picture quality or sound. One advantage the Sony has over the Panasonic is it’s ability to separate 4K from 1080P, with the Panny when set to Auto resolution it always upscales to 4K but with the Sony in Auto it has a separate sets which allows to either upscale all non 4K material or not, I prefer not as then you have FI on projector and do the upscaling there instead.


That brings up a good question. In your experience, would you normally let the projector to any upscaling vs the player? I would think if both devices upscale that it may cause some confliction and/or artifacts.


----------



## rustolemite

ckronengold said:


> Totally with you there. I'm coming from an Epson 5030 that never saw any other mode except Cinema or THX. Most people that saw it for the first time always thought it would be brighter. But I'm in a completely blacked out basement, so light isn't an issue. I just expected to see more "wow" from the 5050 when I set it up. I watched Black Panther, Baywatch, Last Jedi and some Planet Earth, and wasn't feeling like I made a huge improvement over the 5030.
> 
> Like I said, though, I've got the nVidia Shield video options to deal with as well, and there's no shortage of complaints over in those forums.




I'm probably going to grab one of those as well just to eliminate another variable. I have a brand new monoprice DynamicView active HDMI cable that is supposed to handle [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4 at 30ft, but could definitely be a source of a problem. 

Any opti-HDMI that you recommend in particular?[/QUOTE]

The Ruipro Fiber cables are the best and the most recommended cable for long runs, I use the 50ft verison and works great looking forward to using it on the 5050 to test that 18gbps.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am having some issues with my 5050. Most troubling is the picture staying locked to HDR COLOR FORMATS when switching to SDR content and vice versa, destroying the color and contrast. Now the picture looks like this on my Roku Ultra player menu. I am beyond frustrated at this point. Spoke with a projector specialist at Epson who thinks it is a handshake issue and would like me to test out some things and get back to him. I am not a paid beta tester for this projector but I am starting to feel like one. Also upon shutting down the projector I hear a clearly audible plastic rubbing on plastic sound. The gentleman wants me to hold the lens cover open and see if the sound still occurs because he thinks it might be the fan just simply winding down. Then I can start my testing on the handshake issues. If anyone is familiar with the Roku home screen Vudu and prime should be blue and Showtime red. There also should not be a black lane down the center of the home screen nor should there be wavy lines on the aps on the home screen.
> 
> 
> 
> What resolution of PJ had you before this, over in the UK we have seen all kinds of weird sh1t with people upgrading to these high HDR 4:4:4 12 bit projectors and a lot of the times the issue has been cable. Not claiming this is what’s causing this particular problem but I’d order an Opti-HDMI from Amazon to see if it cures it, if it doesn’t just return it no hassle, what harm can it do.
> 
> Don’t know anything about the plastic on plastic noise you are hearing, on shut down all I hear is the lens covering over and all the other usual noises PJs do when turning off.
Click to expand...

I made some adjustments in the AVR. So that didn't resolve the signal locking on HDR/SDR. Very disappointing. I also made sure EDID was set to expanded. This made no difference. Same issue.

Since the problem seems to start with the Roku player I went to:

Home>Settings>System>Advanced system settings>Advanced display settings

There are only two settings in that sub menu:

Auto-adjust display rate:

I switched from Disabled to Enabled 

HDR subsampling:

I switched from 4:2:0 to 4:2:2

I have been testing different applications on the Roku for over an hour now and so far no locking. When I switch back the setting to disabled I have HDR/SDR locking issue again. Does anyone have a technical explanation for this? Seems pretty unusual.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> Jstillen2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any 4K player anyone would recommend to pair with the 5050ub, other than the Panny 820?
> 
> I'm hoping the upconversion/tone mapping ability of the 5050ub will be above par [fingers crossed]. That being said, all I'm looking for is a quality 4k disk player. $500 is a bit stout, but if its that or nothing, guess I got to pay to play.
> 
> I've heard the quality of the Sony 700 is trash compared to the Panny 820. But the Sony 700 is only $180. I obviously don't need Dolby Vison with the 5050.
> 
> Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I own that trashy Sony 700. I love the picture quality, 100%. Yes, it's cheaper than the Panasonic. I'm guessing Oppo owners say the Panasonic is trash, too.
> 
> I would like to upgrade to an all-region Sony 4K HDR Blu-ray player soon. Having a player that enables viewing of every manufactured disc worldwide, is much better deal to me than a miniscule upgrade in picture quality that you will never notice in a real world setting.
Click to expand...

I actually owned an Oppo 203 before my Panasonic 820 and I believe the HDR performance and overall picture quality and audio performance is better on the Panasonic 820 so actually sold my Oppo 203. The Panasonic 820 also upscale Blu-ray discs to 4K much better in my humble opinion. better resolution and clarity


----------



## Cla55clown

How does the 5050 handle a 1080p signal such as that from a SD Blu-ray? Does it up do any upconversion or should my player be doing that job? I'll be using a Oppo 205 if that matters.


----------



## Luminated67

Cla55clown said:


> How does the 5050 handle a 1080p signal such as that from a SD Blu-ray? Does it up do any upconversion or should my player be doing that job? I'll be using a Oppo 205 if that matters.


Well this has been discussed among a few of us on the UK forum and it’s split with some preferring the upscaling done by the player and others preferring the projector, I have compared both and I lean forwards the projector mainly before it allows FI if require whether if upscales by the player it’s greyed out.

Top image is upscales by the Panasonic and the other two by the projector


























You decide.


----------



## imagic

Looking for home theater enthusiasts to join us in NYC on May 7... register if you can attend.

https://www.avsforum.com/new-epson-4k-pro-uhd-projector-first-look-live-demo/


----------



## termite

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I noticed a difference in pic quality coming from my 3 year old Samsung 4K player to the Panasonic DMP-900 now I run the UB-820 all settings in the Epson were the same and I felt like I was getting the most out of the disc it’s hard to explain. I certainly preferred the network experience on the Samsung but the Panasonic has HDR and Atmos with Netflix and Amazon
> 
> I will say though I tried to watch Bosch on Amazon and while the info on Amazon said I was watching HDR the Epson wasn’t seeing HDR and was rec 709 and SDR. Albert annoying since YouTube plays HDR and Netflix worked fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Could it be that Amazon sending HDR10+ metadata and Epson doesn't automatically recognize it?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

termite said:


> Could it be that Amazon sending HDR10+ metadata and Epson doesn't automatically recognize it?




That’s a thought but if I’m not capable of receiving that should it not at least take the base HDR10 layer? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

imagic said:


> Looking for home theater enthusiasts to join us in NYC on May 7... register if you can attend.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/new-epson-4k-pro-uhd-projector-first-look-live-demo/


I registered but haven't heard anything back. I'm in NYC.


----------



## ckronengold

ckronengold said:


> I plugged in @Alaric's settings to get started.
> Just curious if anyone else has other settings worth trying.
> 
> I'm not in love with the image that I'm getting from an nVidia Shield through my Marantz 7010, but both the Shield and the Epson 5050 are new, so I'm juggling more variables than I should be.


Update: Well, well, well. How things change in 24 hours. The issues I was having were coming from the nVidia Shield and not having things ideally set up with Kodi, MrMC, and Plex, as well as video output / HDMI settings for the box itself. I'm still not 100% satisfied with the Shield, but HOT DAMN, I am a happy camper on the projector (and @Alaric's settings!). 

Threw Aquaman up on the screen last night. Dazzling. Stunning. Vibrant. I'm not a fan of posting pictures as proof points of a projector's performance, but I figure I'll share some. These are using @Alaric's HDR Accurate settings and taken with a Pixel 3 from about 12 feet away (except for the forehead closeup, which was more like 3'), in an otherwise dark room. Projector is 15' from a 110" 16:9 grey Silver Ticket screen.


----------



## ezelkow1

ckronengold said:


> Update: Well, well, well. How things change in 24 hours. The issues I was having were coming from the nVidia Shield and not having things ideally set up with Kodi, MrMC, and Plex, as well as video output / HDMI settings for the box itself. I'm still not 100% satisfied with the Shield, but HOT DAMN, I am a happy camper on the projector (and @Alaric's settings!).


Just wondering what shield settings you're having trouble with? Mine was basically plugnplay with the 5050+yamaha avr. Does colorspace and framerate switching automatically via kodi so havent had to change anything. So the only thing I can think you might need to change is enabling the developer colorimetry setting (which at this point I cant even remember if I have it on or off), but theres not really many settings to change


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



ckronengold said:


> Update: Well, well, well. How things change in 24 hours. The issues I was having were coming from the nVidia Shield and not having things ideally set up with Kodi, MrMC, and Plex, as well as video output / HDMI settings for the box itself. I'm still not 100% satisfied with the Shield, but HOT DAMN, I am a happy camper on the projector (and @Alaric's settings!).
> 
> 
> 
> Threw Aquaman up on the screen last night. Dazzling. Stunning. Vibrant. I'm not a fan of posting pictures as proof points of a projector's performance, but I figure I'll share some. These are using @Alaric's HDR Accurate settings and taken with a Pixel 3 from about 12 feet away (except for the forehead closeup, which was more like 3'), in an otherwise dark room. Projector is 15' from a 110" 16:9 grey Silver Ticket screen.




Damn son! I am a fan of posting pictures. I would love to see screenshots whenever possible. 

Here is a Blu-ray rental of Glass. Sound and video were solid movie ....




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

ezelkow1 said:


> Just wondering what shield settings you're having trouble with? Mine was basically plugnplay with the 5050+yamaha avr. Does colorspace and framerate switching automatically via kodi so havent had to change anything. So the only thing I can think you might need to change is enabling the developer colorimetry setting (which at this point I cant even remember if I have it on or off), but theres not really many settings to change


The HDMI output settings are giving me a hard time. Not sure that it really matters, since I'm not watching anything at 4k @60 bt2020, but I can't get a 4k @ 60 output option in the HDMI settings with any of the colorspace options. I can choose 4k @ 60 under the resolution settings, but I'm stuck at the HDMI settings. And yeah, I found the colorimetry setting and have that turned on.


----------



## ezelkow1

ckronengold said:


> The HDMI output settings are giving me a hard time. Not sure that it really matters, since I'm not watching anything at 4k @60 bt2020, but I can't get a 4k @ 60 output option in the HDMI settings with any of the colorspace options. I can choose 4k @ 60 under the resolution settings, but I'm stuck at the HDMI settings. And yeah, I found the colorimetry setting and have that turned on.


hmm strange then, yea maybe try turning off the colorimetry if you haven't already, since you are only supposed to enable it if you are actually having colorspace issues. Other than that maybe its something with the intermediary avr, cause you should be able to get 4k60 2020 as an option


----------



## ckronengold

ezelkow1 said:


> hmm strange then, yea maybe try turning off the colorimetry if you haven't already, since you are only supposed to enable it if you are actually having colorspace issues. Other than that maybe its something with the intermediary avr, cause you should be able to get 4k60 2020 as an option


Yeah, thats why this has been a bit frustrating and I haven't wanted to judge the projector yet. Too many new variables in my mix. 

Shield > 3' CableMatters High Speed Certified HDMI > Marantz 7010 > Monoprice 30' DynamicView Active HDMI > Epson 5050. 

I have some of the video processing in the receiver turned on to upscale my HTPC, but I can probably live without that. Or I could let my Oppo 103 upscale any 1080p movies and let the Shield do the 4k stuff off my network and be good to go. I can run the HTPC through the Oppo and let the Oppo upscale the HTPC too.


----------



## termite

Still trying to fully understand how HDR is handled by Epson.. If your player supports all HDR formats (HDR10, HDR10+ & DV) how do people setup to watch these various HDR formats on Epson?


----------



## JackB

I'm trying to set my brightness using Dig. Vid. Essentials disk. When I'm trying to set it, should the Video Range be on Auto, Limited, or Full? I assume Auto switches based on source and what it supports. So should I set Limited and then set Full, and then leave it in the Auto position for watching. I could not find any explanation on this in the manual.


----------



## Luminated67

termite said:


> Still trying to fully understand how HDR is handled by Epson.. If your player supports all HDR formats (HDR10, HDR10+ & DV) how do people setup to watch these various HDR formats on Epson?


You don’t, the player checks what your display is capable of and adjusts accordingly.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Cla55clown said:


> How does the 5050 handle a 1080p signal such as that from a SD Blu-ray? Does it up do any upconversion or should my player be doing that job? I'll be using a Oppo 205 if that matters.


I would let the Oppo 205 do the upconversion personally. You can try it both ways obviously and see which you prefer. If you let the Oppo 205 do the upconversion the I believe the 5050 will receive the signal as 4K and will not apply it's own upconversion. The 5050 can upconvert a 1080P signal from a cable box or streaming player to 4k.


----------



## seplant

Does anyone know if the 5050 use the same lamp as the 5040?


----------



## ScudDawg

seplant said:


> Does anyone know if the 5050 use the same lamp as the 5040?


Yes it does.


----------



## JackB

I had read that the 5050 would switch between HDR and SDR automatically upon reading the metadata. It's not doing this for me so I'm sure I have something in my settings wrong. I am using Alaric's settings and have saved the SDR settings in Memory 1 where it's called SDR. He uses Natural for this. I saved his HDR under Memory 2 and, of course, called it HDR. He used Digital Cinema for this. 

However, when I switch between SDR and HDR content on Netflix the 5050 does not make the switch between Mem 1 and Mem 2. I believe it's same with Directv, which is a different source and SDR. 

Can anyone tell me what I need to do to make it work?


----------



## ScudDawg

JackB said:


> I had read that the 5050 would switch between HDR and SDR automatically upon reading the metadata. It's not doing this for me so I'm sure I have something in my settings wrong. I am using Alaric's settings and have saved the SDR settings in Memory 1 where it's called SDR. He uses Natural for this. I saved his HDR under Memory 2 and, of course, called it HDR. He used Digital Cinema for this.
> 
> However, when I switch between SDR and HDR content on Netflix the 5050 does not make the switch between Mem 1 and Mem 2. I believe it's same with Directv, which is a different source and SDR.
> 
> Can anyone tell me what I need to do to make it work?


You have to use the memory buttons, it won't do it on its own.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Epson needs to get a firmware update out asap to enable automatic switching between HDR and SDR sources.


----------



## ezelkow1

ckronengold said:


> Yeah, thats why this has been a bit frustrating and I haven't wanted to judge the projector yet. Too many new variables in my mix.
> 
> Shield > 3' CableMatters High Speed Certified HDMI > Marantz 7010 > Monoprice 30' DynamicView Active HDMI > Epson 5050.
> 
> I have some of the video processing in the receiver turned on to upscale my HTPC, but I can probably live without that. Or I could let my Oppo 103 upscale any 1080p movies and let the Shield do the 4k stuff off my network and be good to go. I can run the HTPC through the Oppo and let the Oppo upscale the HTPC too.


Figured I’d check for you. So by default my shield goes to 4K 59.940 yuv 420 10bit rec2020. I do have the colorimetry setting enabled but I also did not try to search out a specific res, hz, color, etc, I just use the default since it seemed to work fine.

However while that’s what’s reported in the shield settings my 5050 is actually running in bt709 until I actually play hdr content


----------



## ezelkow1

JackB said:


> However, when I switch between SDR and HDR content on Netflix the 5050 does not make the switch between Mem 1 and Mem 2. I believe it's same with Directv, which is a different source and SDR.
> 
> Can anyone tell me what I need to do to make it work?


It is changing modes properly, if you go to the information screen you will see it doing bt2020 hdr instead of 709sdr. What it will not do is switch memory presets for you, but it will switch between hdr and sdr modes fine

Personally I setup one based on Alaric’s settings, then tweaked while watching tv and some while watching hdr movies and have found a happy medium that works for most stuff, the only thing I toggle is the image enhancement and hdr level, which you would have to do anyway


----------



## eastbaygreen

ezelkow1 said:


> Well she's a beast, comparison shot to my 5020


Wow, that is a bit bigger than I thought. It's only about 2"/50mm wider and a bit deeper, but that pic makes it seem like more.

Interested to get your thoughts about the upgrade...I too have the 5020 and have a bit of upgrade-itis.


----------



## ckronengold

ezelkow1 said:


> Figured I’d check for you. So by default my shield goes to 4K 59.940 yuv 420 10bit rec2020. I do have the colorimetry setting enabled but I also did not try to search out a specific res, hz, color, etc, I just use the default since it seemed to work fine.
> 
> However while that’s what’s reported in the shield settings my 5050 is actually running in bt709 until I actually play hdr content


My default is 4k, 59.94, but 709. 
I have no options at 60 for bt2020. 
I also don't have any 10 bit options. 

with YUV 422 12-bit bt2020, I can only get up to 30hz. 

I turned the colorimetry off, but am going to turn it back on. I didn't get anything different from toggling it (yes, I restarted).


----------



## ezelkow1

eastbaygreen said:


> Wow, that is a bit bigger than I thought. It's only about 2"/50mm wider and a bit deeper, but that pic makes it seem like more.
> 
> Interested to get your thoughts about the upgrade...I too have the 5020 and have a bit of upgrade-itis.


Im liking it more as it burns in. Initially normal hdtv seemed a bit blown out, even after tweaking things down. Once I got it setup so it looked nice with 4khdr movies and have put 20-30hrs on it even regular tv seems to have more detail and better colors now (or perhaps just watching better mastered shows/episodes?). I.e. tonight watching AP bio/brooklyn 99, both of which on the 5020 generally come off as more muted in color, there seems to be a bit more highlights than usual and I could also notice much more detail in faces, but of course not sure if thats just the episode or not since I dont think I can chalk all that up to the 5050. Initially though watching some shows that were only a couple years old seemed to have more blown out colors but they are starting to tone down a bit and look much better now

Actual 4k stuff so far looks amazing. Most of what Ive been playing on it has just been the netflix our planet series, I only made it through half a movie last weekend so hopefully this weekend I can give it a good run at full length. On the our planet stuff, close up shots are just insane with the amount of detail. The wife has even commented multiple times on how great it looks.

All in all I think its met my expectations of what I had been hoping for in an upgrade. Im not totally ZOMG blown away, its not a giant difference to the 5020, but everything is just nicer. The motorized lens (it only took a couple minutes to get it perfect), the DI (which I cant hear at all but could definitely hear on the 5020 in quiet scenes), the color and brightness (Ive only run it at medium power and it feels like plenty). The black levels are good I guess, Im not a huge black level snob but dark portions and bars seem maybe a slightly bit darker and there does seem to be more black level detail than what I can remember on the 5020. 

I was at ~2800hrs on the bulb in my 5020 and had everything all setup for a 4k upgrade anyway so it was about time. So its really up to you of course. IMHO if you have plenty of life left in your bulb Id just stick with the 5020 for now until the time gets closer, prices can only go down and more competition popup. If you are nearing that time though I think its a pretty good upgrade


----------



## ezelkow1

ckronengold said:


> My default is 4k, 59.94, but 709.
> I have no options at 60 for bt2020.
> I also don't have any 10 bit options.
> 
> with YUV 422 12-bit bt2020, I can only get up to 30hz.
> 
> I turned the colorimetry off, but am going to turn it back on. I didn't get anything different from toggling it (yes, I restarted).


Id wager its that 30' cable. I think 4k30 422 10bit is the limit for lower bandwidth/hdmi1.4/9gbps. Id bet if you can unmount and hook directly to the 3ft as a test it would work, and if you happen to have a shorter highspeed hdmi cable around can run it through the marantz too to narrow it down to make sure its not the avr


----------



## Luminated67

ezelkow1 said:


> Id wager its that 30' cable. I think 4k30 422 10bit is the limit for lower bandwidth/hdmi1.4/9gbps. Id bet if you can unmount and hook directly to the 3ft as a test it would work, and if you happen to have a shorter highspeed hdmi cable around can run it through the marantz too to narrow it down to make sure its not the avr


That's my opinion too, I think loads are dismissing the idea it's the cable because it worked with there 5040ub or other 4K device that didn't have 18Gbps HDMI / 4K HDR with 60hz.

As I've already posted here my QED Reference HDMI despite costing a bucket and can transmit 4K it can't do the full fat signal for that you need Opti-HDMI over distances greater than 7 meters.

Oh and guys if you want to futureproof yourselves then go for a version that does 8K. 

https://www.amazon.com/SIKAI-Compat...cable+8K&qid=1556268786&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1


----------



## JewDaddy

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

I’m confused by something and I’m hoping someone can help me with this. I noticed yesterday that when I have my gaming pc hooked up to the 5050, that the computer thinks the native resolution is 1080p. I thought that was very strange because I’m getting all the checkmarks on my Xbox One X. 4K HDR gaming at 60hz. I thought at first that maybe it was the hdmi cable from the pc to my receiver. I swapped the hdmi that was working perfectly with my Xbox with the pc. Still 1080p. Just for the heck of it, I changed the setting on the projector from Expanded to Normal and now the PC is showing native 4K. 

After saying all of that, why would my Xbox have to be on Expanded in order to get all the checkmarks but my PC has to be set at Normal? It’s not a huge deal but it‘ s annoying having to switch between the two in order to get 4K from both. Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> I’m confused by something and I’m hoping someone can help me with this. I noticed yesterday that when I have my gaming pc hooked up to the 5050, that the computer thinks the native resolution is 1080p. I thought that was very strange because I’m getting all the checkmarks on my Xbox One X. 4K HDR gaming at 60hz. I thought at first that maybe it was the hdmi cable from the pc to my receiver. I swapped the hdmi that was working perfectly with my Xbox with the pc. Still 1080p. Just for the heck of it, I changed the setting on the projector from Expanded to Normal and now the PC is showing native 4K.
> 
> After saying all of that, why would my Xbox have to be on Expanded in order to get all the checkmarks but my PC has to be set at Normal? It’s not a huge deal but it‘ s annoying having to switch between the two in order to get 4K from both. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How is the PC connected compared to the XBox, both going to the AVR, are the cables to same of different?


----------



## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> How is the PC connected compared to the XBox, both going to the AVR, are the cables to same of different?




Both going to AVR. Different cables. That’s why I took the Xbox HDMI and hooked it to the PC because I was thinking maybe the PC hdmi wasn’t high speed. Same thing. Even with the Xbox HDMI it still showed the PC at 1080p. The only time I could get my PC to show a native 4K was by switching from Expanded to normal. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Both going to AVR. Different cables. That’s why I took the Xbox HDMI and hooked it to the PC because I was thinking maybe the PC hdmi wasn’t high speed. Same thing. Even with the Xbox HDMI it still showed the PC at 1080p. The only time I could get my PC to show a native 4K was by switching from Expanded to normal.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What’s your AVR, it might be that your HDMI inputs are set up differently in the AVR’s menu. For example, when I hooked up the QED cable for my test between it and the Opti cable I couldn’t get the QED one to work and had the change the HDMI input from expanded to normal to the BR player to get it to play 4K on the PJ which cut the signal range down to suit the QED cable but when I hook up the Opti I can change it back to expanded and get the full 4:4:4 12Bit goodness. Check your AVR HDMI input settings.


----------



## ckronengold

ezelkow1 said:


> Id wager its that 30' cable. I think 4k30 422 10bit is the limit for lower bandwidth/hdmi1.4/9gbps. Id bet if you can unmount and hook directly to the 3ft as a test it would work, and if you happen to have a shorter highspeed hdmi cable around can run it through the marantz too to narrow it down to make sure its not the avr





Luminated67 said:


> That's my opinion too, I think loads are dismissing the idea it's the cable because it worked with there 5040ub or other 4K device that didn't have 18Gbps HDMI / 4K HDR with 60hz.


So I was with you guys there. But before I pulled out the cable, I tried one more thing. I pulled the Marantz out of the mix and I switched inputs on the projector. And I have a problem.

Went to Amazon Prime to find some content that checked all my boxes, since movies were always going to trigger a shift to 24fps anyway. 

Direct from the Shield, HDMI 2 will play a 4k @ 60 12-bit 422 bt2020 HDR10 signal, but HDMI 1 will not. 

When I put the Marantz back in the chain, I can only get a 4k @ 60 10-bit 420 bt2020 HDR10 signal. 

F*&()Ck.


----------



## JonfromCB

Am I right or wrong with this, but I thought I read that only one of the projector HDMI inputs could accept the full 18Gbps, 60 hz? That could be your problem.


----------



## Luminated67

JonfromCB said:


> Am I right or wrong with this, but I thought I read that only one of the projector HDMI inputs could accept the full 18Gbps, 60 hz? That could be your problem.


Nope both.


----------



## Luminated67

ckronengold said:


> So I was with you guys there. But before I pulled out the cable, I tried one more thing. I pulled the Marantz out of the mix and I switched inputs on the projector. And I have a problem.
> 
> Went to Amazon Prime to find some content that checked all my boxes, since movies were always going to trigger a shift to 24fps anyway.
> 
> Direct from the Shield, HDMI 2 will play a 4k @ 60 12-bit 422 bt2020 HDR10 signal, but HDMI 1 will not.
> 
> When I put the Marantz back in the chain, I can only get a 4k @ 60 10-bit 420 bt2020 HDR10 signal.
> 
> F*&()Ck.


I can only speak for the TW9400 but according to Epson both HDMI have full quota and if it were only one then surely it would be HDMI 1 anyway.

So same cable just moved from HDMI #1 to #2 produces a different outcome?


----------



## ckronengold

Luminated67 said:


> I can only speak for the TW9400 but according to Epson both HDMI have full quota and if it were only one then surely it would be HDMI 1 anyway.


- no mention of any limitations between HDMI1 and 2 in the manual. 



Luminated67 said:


> So same cable just moved from HDMI #1 to #2 produces a different outcome?


Yup. It ain't the cable.


----------



## termite

Luminated67 said:


> You don’t, the player checks what your display is capable of and adjusts accordingly.


So if we're playing a title with DV then on Epson we see HDR10 as the receiving signal?


----------



## Luminated67

termite said:


> So if we're playing a title with DV then on Epson we see HDR10 as the receiving signal?


That’s not what I am saying, the source be it your BluRay player, AppleTV etc detect what your display is capable of producing and sends the appropriate signal. This is not the Epson doing the changing.


----------



## Luminated67

ckronengold said:


> - no mention of any limitations between HDMI1 and 2 in the manual.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup. It ain't the cable.


Very weird.


----------



## termite

Luminated67 said:


> That’s not what I am saying, the source be it your BluRay player, AppleTV etc detect what your display is capable of producing and sends the appropriate signal. This is not the Epson doing the changing.



Yes I understand that part. Since our display here is Epson I'm specifically asking what do you see on the Epson info. screen for the receiving signal when the player is playing a title with Dolby Vision. Do you see HDR10 being displayed on signal info?


----------



## imagic

So... I'm just dropping a quick hint here... the NY event will include a giveaway that will make one of the 25 registered attendees very happy. We still have a few spots so register to attend now. 

https://www.avsforum.com/new-epson-4k-pro-uhd-projector-first-look-live-demo/


----------



## Luminated67

termite said:


> Yes I understand that part. Since our display here is Epson I'm specifically asking what do you see on the Epson info. screen for the receiving signal when the player is playing a title with Dolby Vision. Do you see HDR10 being displayed on signal info?


Couldn’t answer this but my best guess it HDR10.


----------



## Cla55clown

What's the largest 2.40:1 image this projector can manage from lens to screen about 11.5 feet?


----------



## coderguy

About 110" is all, maybe a little bigger.


----------



## Viche

rustolemite said:


> The Ruipro Fiber cables are the best and the most recommended cable for long runs, I use the 50ft verison and works great looking forward to using it on the 5050 to test that 18gbps.


*Any additional input lag with fiber or active cables?*



ezelkow1 said:


> It is changing modes properly, if you go to the information screen you will see it doing bt2020 hdr instead of 709sdr. What it will not do is switch memory presets for you, but it will switch between hdr and sdr modes fine
> 
> Personally I setup one based on Alaric’s settings, then tweaked while watching tv and some while watching hdr movies and have found a happy medium that works for most stuff, the only thing I toggle is the image enhancement and hdr level, which you would have to do anyway


*Seems like Alaric is the only one providing settings for this projector. Whatever happened to the slew of settings on the 5040 thread (HDR mapping to SDR and others)? None of them apply to the 5050? Are Alaric's settings that far off from the techniques used for the 5040?*


----------



## Cla55clown

coderguy said:


> About 110" is all, maybe a little bigger.


Would that number be bigger or smaller if I changed the AR to 16:9?


----------



## Gellert1

Cla55clown said:


> What's the largest 2.40:1 image this projector can manage from lens to screen about 11.5 feet?



You can get the exact measurements here.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## Luminated67

Cla55clown said:


> What's the largest 2.40:1 image this projector can manage from lens to screen about 11.5 feet?


Roughly 115” but I think Epson have a calculator


----------



## JewDaddy

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



Luminated67 said:


> What’s your AVR, it might be that your HDMI inputs are set up differently in the AVR’s menu. For example, when I hooked up the QED cable for my test between it and the Opti cable I couldn’t get the QED one to work and had the change the HDMI input from expanded to normal to the BR player to get it to play 4K on the PJ which cut the signal range down to suit the QED cable but when I hook up the Opti I can change it back to expanded and get the full 4:4:4 12Bit goodness. Check your AVR HDMI input settings.




Well, I don’t think it’s the AVR but I won’t rule it out yet. There’s two HDMI modes on my Yamaha 3050 AVR. HDMI Mode 1 and Mode 2. I’ve tried both and the only mode that keeps 4K hdr for all sources including my X and Pro is Mode 1. So the Pro and X both work with Expanded and are able to do 4K HDR 60hz but I have to switch to Normal for my PC. I’m wondering if it could be a setting on my pc that I need to change.....

I guess the only text left for me to do which will tell me if it’s my AVR or not is to run the projector direct to the AVR with Expanded on and see if it still native 1080 or switches to 4K


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

I’m still thinking it’s something to do with the PC, when you go to the info on Projector does it show 4:4:4 12Bit when watching a 4K disc?


----------



## Spankey

Used Alaric’s settings with great success. Such a better picture than my 10 year old JVC that I paid more for at the time. 

Can blacks be a touch better? Sure. Do I think it’s worth spending thousands more to get a “touch” better? Nope. Same goes for sharpness. Faux-k or not the image is perfectly sharp and cinematic. 

Now. First world problem. Logitech does not have the projector in the database yet. 

If Alaric could do some 3D calibration I’d be set


----------



## --Sclaws

Spankey said:


> Now. First world problem. Logitech does not have the projector in the database yet.
> 
> If Alaric could do some 3D calibration I’d be set


The profile for the 5040 works fine. Only button you need to manually add is HDR.


----------



## carmona

Using the link provided by Gellert below:

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

For the distance from projector to screen and the screen size in my setup, the projected image brightness was predicted to be 6fL higher on the 5050 than the 5040.


----------



## Krbass

I am coming from a BenQ w6000, I've had it since it launched and am on my 6th bulb. My current screen is 130" 16:9. I want an acoustically transparent screen for the new room I am building and have been considering spandex for cost reasons. I am shooting for a 140" cih, would the epson handle that size and does anyone here have experience with spandex vs a manufactured AT screen?


----------



## termite

Spankey said:


> Used Alaric’s settings with great success. Such a better picture than my 10 year old JVC that I paid more for at the time.
> 
> Can blacks be a touch better? Sure. Do I think it’s worth spending thousands more to get a “touch” better? Nope. Same goes for sharpness. Faux-k or not the image is perfectly sharp and cinematic.
> 
> Now. First world problem. Logitech does not have the projector in the database yet.
> 
> If Alaric could do some 3D calibration I’d be set


Another vote for Alaric to post some 3D settings!


----------



## Jstillen2

Jstillen2 said:


> @Luminated67 - Thanks for the suggestion. Just ordered two of the optic-HDMI's from amazon. Simple return if its a bit overkill


This may help with some of the HDMI handshake questions/issues. 

I just received 2 of the ATZEBE 4k Optical HDMI Cable, both 10m in length. I hooked the one of the cables up to my Denon AVR and my 5050ub was unable to get a signal. Then, I tried to hook it directly to a Sony 700, and still no signal. So I tried the other cable and "Ta Da!", we have picture. 

One of the cables was a dud. Just food for thought. I'd recommend ordering two cables with the intention of sending one back. May save people some unnecessary troubleshooting.


----------



## Jstillen2

Regarding zoom and throw ratio....

Does anyone know if using max zoom degrades the picture quality on the 5050ub?

My screen is 16:9 at 118" diag. My throw ratio is 11.8 feet to 24 feet, and I have a 12 foot max placement.


----------



## Luminated67

Jstillen2 said:


> Regarding zoom and throw ratio....
> 
> Does anyone know if using max zoom degrades the picture quality on the 5050ub?
> 
> My screen is 16:9 at 118" diag. My throw ratio is 11.8 feet to 24 feet, and I have a 12 foot max placement.


My projector is 3.08m for my 100” screen.

Check out my pictures to see if you think the picture is degraded.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wza4okjse0dobt0/AABE-aYzwmdgDuok9ggeMVtLa?dl=0


----------



## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> I’m still thinking it’s something to do with the PC, when you go to the info on Projector does it show 4:4:4 12Bit when watching a 4K disc?




I have a Panasonic UB900 player. I currently have the settings on the player configured for 4:4:4 12 Bit and when trying a 4K disc, the Epson shows 4:4:4 12 Bit HDR 10. What does that tell you?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## seplant

*Motion processing*

I would appreciate if any former 5040/6040 owners could comment on the motion processing on the 5050 compared to your previous projectors. I haven't been real happy with the motion on my 6040 and was wondering if the 5050 shows any improvement, with or without frame interpolation.


----------



## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> I have a Panasonic UB900 player. I currently have the settings on the player configured for 4:4:4 12 Bit and when trying a 4K disc, the Epson shows 4:4:4 12 Bit HDR 10. What does that tell you?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I reckon it’s something to do with the way your PC is configured or the graphics card used, I take you you have tried the same disc in the PC.

The difference between Normal and Enhance is normal is for source that only for 4K 30Hz and expanded for 4K 60Hz


----------



## Jstillen2

anyone have a trick to eliminate judder? Watching a few blurays, the image looked really good, but something was just...off. It looked like maybe a faint studder, but I couldn't place it. When I hooked up my PC I noticed that when I mouse over an icon on, the words would shake for a brief second. I'm suspecting this is due to judder.

Any tips on how to solve this? I believe it is happening when I watch blurays, stream movies, and use my pc. I do not notice it watching a 4k disk.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Jstillen2 said:


> anyone have a trick to eliminate judder? Watching a few blurays, the image looked really good, but something was just...off. It looked like maybe a faint studder, but I couldn't place it. When I hooked up my PC I noticed that when I mouse over an icon on, the words would shake for a brief second. I'm suspecting this is due to judder.
> 
> Any tips on how to solve this? I believe it is happening when I watch blurays, stream movies, and use my pc. I do not notice it watching a 4k disk.


Set frame interpolation to Low.


----------



## Jstillen2

MidnightWatcher said:


> Set frame interpolation to Low.


Appreciate the tip. Sucks we cant use frame interpolation while pixel shifting.


----------



## JewDaddy

Jstillen2 said:


> Appreciate the tip. Sucks we cant use frame interpolation while pixel shifting.




That should have been the first thing Epson upgraded with this new model. It kills me that I can’t even watch 4K on Low FI. It would look so good. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



Luminated67 said:


> I reckon it’s something to do with the way your PC is configured or the graphics card used, I take you you have tried the same disc in the PC.
> 
> 
> 
> The difference between Normal and Enhance is normal is for source that only for 4K 30Hz and expanded for 4K 60Hz




Alright. Now I’m really stumped. I took the hdmi going direct from the AVR to the Epson and landed it directly to my pc. Now I get native 4K with EDID set to Expanded. I’m lost........ No AVR in the chain and I get native 4K with Expanded


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

Need some input as I was planning on getting a benq 3550 for the last couple months but to many issues for me to go that route. I know the epson costs more but hear that blacks are just amazing. My concern here is whether the 4ke is enough pixels for me. So would the epson 5050 look any less sharp that a 1080 4x shift 4K projector on a 120 inch screen at a distance of 12-15 feet. On other words how close can you away and not notice any more sharpness. I heard 4K is 9 feet on 120 inches and yeah I don’t need to be that close. So if the epson gets perfect. At 12 feet or so then I can handle it.


----------



## Jstillen2

Somehow, I have Frame Interpolation on Low....AND 4K Enhancement ON. At the same time. 
???

I thought this wasn't possible on the 5050? I'm in heaven right now. Seeing this while testing a 1080p bluray version of Prometheus.


----------



## Jstillen2

[email protected] said:


> Need some input as I was planning on getting a benq 3550 for the last couple months but to many issues for me to go that route. I know the epson costs more but hear that blacks are just amazing. My concern here is whether the 4ke is enough pixels for me. So would the epson 5050 look any less sharp that a 1080 4x shift 4K projector on a 120 inch screen at a distance of 12-15 feet. On other words how close can you away and not notice any more sharpness. I heard 4K is 9 feet on 120 inches and yeah I don’t need to be that close. So if the epson gets perfect. At 12 feet or so then I can handle it.


I just bought the 5050 and been testing it for the past two days. I'm coming from a BenQ 2050. 

I can't testify to the sharpness, but I can certainly say that its plenty of pixels. Pixel-wise, PLENTY. I'm not longing for any more pixels/resolution. The one thing I'm attempting to iron out is if I am seeing any judder, or just been reviewing the 5050 for too long. I notice when I see letters and numbers on my PC, that they come in just a hair blurry. I'm guessing the pixel shift doesn't play nice with very small text. 

I'm on a 118" screen btw.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Any 5050 owners who were 5040 owners can you comment on any differences with 3D such as ghosting?


----------



## ezelkow1

Jstillen2 said:


> I just bought the 5050 and been testing it for the past two days. I'm coming from a BenQ 2050.
> 
> I can't testify to the sharpness, but I can certainly say that its plenty of pixels. Pixel-wise, PLENTY. I'm not longing for any more pixels/resolution. The one thing I'm attempting to iron out is if I am seeing any judder, or just been reviewing the 5050 for too long. I notice when I see letters and numbers on my PC, that they come in just a hair blurry. I'm guessing the pixel shift doesn't play nice with very small text.
> 
> I'm on a 118" screen btw.


It’s also possible you might just need to do an alignment run on your panels. If the alignment is off it can show up as a bit blurry or ghosty, but I haven’t tried to look at hair thin pc letters at 4k


----------



## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Alright. Now I’m really stumped. I took the hdmi going direct from the AVR to the Epson and landed it directly to my pc. Now I get native 4K with EDID set to Expanded. I’m lost........ No AVR in the chain and I get native 4K with Expanded
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok well then as I originally thought there is a setting in the HDMI input menu on your AVR to set the spec of said input. My Sony has this, see link to manual.


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1264431/Sony-Str-Dn1080.html?page=40#manual


----------



## JewDaddy

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



Luminated67 said:


> Ok well then as I originally thought there is a setting in the HDMI input menu on your AVR to set the spec of said input. My Sony has this, see link to manual.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1264431/Sony-Str-Dn1080.html?page=40#manual




Thanks for the link and suggestion. 

I do have a question. If it is in the HDMI input of my AVR, why is it only happening with my PC and not my Xbox, PS4, Roku or Panasonic 4K Player?

*Edit* The HDMI Mode you’re referring to from your Manual, I’ve already checked on mine. For a full 4K HDR signal it has to be in HDMI Mode 1, which it is. That’s why I said I tried both modes just to see if it makes a difference. If I switch to Mode 2 then nothing works like it’s supposed to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## --Sclaws

Jstillen2 said:


> Somehow, I have Frame Interpolation on Low....AND 4K Enhancement ON. At the same time.
> ???
> 
> I thought this wasn't possible on the 5050? I'm in heaven right now. Seeing this while testing a 1080p bluray version of Prometheus.


I think I read in AVForum that firmware 1.01 enables this, but I might be wrong. I was unable to get 1.01 to install on mine and am going to wait until the next release to try again as I don't really use FI.


----------



## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Thanks for the link and suggestion.
> 
> I do have a question. If it is in the HDMI input of my AVR, why is it only happening with my PC and not my Xbox, PS4, Roku or Panasonic 4K Player?
> 
> *Edit* The HDMI Mode you’re referring to from your Manual, I’ve already checked on mine. For a full 4K HDR signal it has to be in HDMI Mode 1, which it is. That’s why I said I tried both modes just to see if it makes a difference. If I switch to Mode 2 then nothing works like it’s supposed to.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok, I thought it was the output rather than input, in that case I’m stumped like yourself.


----------



## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> Ok, I thought it was the output rather than input, in that case I’m stumped like yourself.




Back to the drawing board. There’s some kind of incompatibility between my PC and AVR. Just need to figure out where. Thanks for your help. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gellert1

Jstillen2 said:


> Somehow, I have Frame Interpolation on Low....AND 4K Enhancement ON. At the same time.
> ???
> 
> I thought this wasn't possible on the 5050? I'm in heaven right now. Seeing this while testing a 1080p bluray version of Prometheus.


When you go into settings and about, what is the firmware version number?


----------



## JonfromCB

JewDaddy said:


> Back to the drawing board. There’s some kind of incompatibility between my PC and AVR. Just need to figure out where. Thanks for your help.
> 
> 10
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry if you've already answered this but I didn't go back through the thread. Do you know what the signal is coming out of your computer...ie, 1080, 24hz? Are you sure your computer supports HDMI? It's not unheard of for computers to have a port that isn't fully supported by the internal hardware. Have you tried connecting to PC port (VGA)? Hope something there is helpful.


----------



## JewDaddy

JonfromCB said:


> Sorry if you've already answered this but I didn't go back through the thread. Do you know what the signal is coming out of your computer...ie, 1080, 24hz? Are you sure your computer supports HDMI? It's not unheard of for computers to have a port that isn't fully supported by the internal hardware. Have you tried connecting to PC port (VGA)? Hope something there is helpful.




Hey no worries. I appreciate the help!

My video card is a 1080Ti and it has two hdmi outputs. I’ve tried both and it sends a 1080p 60 hz signal. If I run the projector directly to my PC, it outputs 4K 60hz and HDR. There’s some issue between the PC and receiver. All my other devices work perfectly hooked up through my receiver and send a 4K 60hz HDR signal. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jstillen2

Gellert said:


> When you go into settings and about, what is the firmware version number?


I'm running 1.01.


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## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Back to the drawing board. There’s some kind of incompatibility between my PC and AVR. Just need to figure out where. Thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


At least you now know the Epson is OK as is the PC, hopefully someone over on the Amp section of the forum can help you out as I am not that familiar with Yamaha amps.


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## --Sclaws

Has anyone successfully registered their 5050 on Epson's website? For me it won't accept the final character of the s/n and fails.


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## Jstillen2

So after a few solid days playing with my Epson 5050.... I'm getting worried. This is my impression/findings. To start, I have a 118" 16:9 screen in a light controlled theater room with black velvet walls and ceiling. I am coming from a BenQ 2050.

The epson's resolution was very good. The color accuracy and use of HRD is fantastic. I want to like this projector oh, so much. I am using Alaric's calibrated settings. When watching movies, during scenes with movement, I felt like my eyes kept tracking, which causes a mild headache. I never experienced this on my BenQ. The image is all around stunning, except for this ever so faint judder that I cant see unless I'm looking for it, but it begins to give me a headache.

I switched over to my PC and noticed text has an ever so slight blur. I noticed this more when viewing my clock on the bottom right side. Text in the middle was almost perfect, but there was a faint blur. Still gave me a headache. The old BenQ 2050 never had this issue. The text was always crystal clear. 

I really really want to like this projector, because on paper it hits everything I am looking for. However, this motion/judder is something I cant see myself living with. I have tried using FI on low, but I am just not a fan of the soap opera effect. I am going to try a few more settings and play a bit more before making a verdict, but I am leaning on returning it. I'll have to take the return restocking fee as a lesson learned. 

I am sure this is a great projector for somoene that 1. doesnt notice faint judder, 2. doesnt use a lot of text based applications on a PC.


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## Luminated67

^That would be a shame, a couple of guys have commented a similar experience on the UK forum who came from DLPs so it might be something you will notice more than others in the same way some see rainbow effect on DLPs and others don’t.

Not sure there’s any settings to lessen this effect for you but mine is getting professionally calibrated on Thursday so will ask the question for you.


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## Jstillen2

Luminated67 said:


> ^That would be a shame, a couple of guys have commented a similar experience on the UK forum who came from DLPs so it might be something you will notice more than others in the same way some see rainbow effect on DLPs and others don’t.
> 
> Not sure there’s any settings to lessen this effect for you but mine is getting professionally calibrated on Thursday so will ask the question for you.


Much appreciated! I still have hopes (and 9 more days to return).


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## JackB

I am in the same boat as Jstillen2. I am thinking of returning mine as it just doesn't seem to deliver enough improvement over my four year old PF1500 DLP(LED) projector or my high end(in its day) Sharp XV-Z20000. I'm using Alaric's settings on a 106" 1.0 gain screen in a light controlled room with dark walls and rug. The colors are good but I can't seem to get any better blacks/contrast than my current projectors. And I'm not getting the "POP" 3D like image that we all hope for. When there is no signal the black screen is hardly blacker/darker than my DLPs. I've lowered the brightness control and that doesn't seem to help.

I had planned to put in a 114" 2.35:1 screen in addition to my 106" 16x9 but when I zoomed out to that size the clarity broke down a bit. I think the reason is that it a HD wobulated image on top of the larger gaps of LCD vs DLP. If I keep this 5050 I will have to downsize my 114" goal to something slightly smaller.

The handshake is also significantly longer although that is probably due to all the checking for HDCP 2.2 that isn't there for 1.4. If not, then the 5050 is just slower.

All those things considered I would probably keep it if I could get the blacks/contrast and POP to equal what many of the rave reviews have said. Any thoughts or hints on how to do that would be greatly appreciated. My first plasma panel looked similar until a fellow AVS owner recommend changes to two setting parameters. It caused a night and day difference and made that plasma jump out. Hopefully I can find a couple of changes that will do the same to this Epson. I have plenty of time before my trial period is up.


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## JonfromCB

JewDaddy said:


> Hey no worries. I appreciate the help!
> 
> My video card is a 1080Ti and it has two hdmi outputs. I’ve tried both and it sends a 1080p 60 hz signal. If I run the projector directly to my PC, it outputs 4K 60hz and HDR. There’s some issue between the PC and receiver. All my other devices work perfectly hooked up through my receiver and send a 4K 60hz HDR signal.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


A couple more questions. Is your AVR firmware the latest available? How long is the cable you are using between the computer and your AVR? Have you tried a active cable with Spectra7 chipset, or fiber optic between the computer and AVR? Have you tried a different computer? Good Luck. It's good to know it's not your 5050.


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## Jstillen2

JackB said:


> I am in the same boat as Jstillen2. I am thinking of returning mine as it just doesn't seem to deliver enough improvement over my four year old PF1500 DLP(LED) projector or my high end(in its day) Sharp XV-Z20000. I'm using Alaric's settings on a 106" 1.0 gain screen in a light controlled room with dark walls and rug. The colors are good but I can't seem to get any better blacks/contrast than my current projectors. And I'm not getting the "POP" 3D like image that we all hope for. When there is no signal the black screen is hardly blacker/darker than my DLPs. I've lowered the brightness control and that doesn't seem to help.
> 
> I had planned to put in a 114" 2.35:1 screen in addition to my 106" 16x9 but when I zoomed out to that size the clarity broke down a bit. I think the reason is that it a HD wobulated image on top of the larger gaps of LCD vs DLP. If I keep this 5050 I will have to downsize my 114" goal to something slightly smaller.
> 
> The handshake is also significantly longer although that is probably due to all the checking for HDCP 2.2 that isn't there for 1.4. If not, then the 5050 is just slower.
> 
> All those things considered I would probably keep it if I could get the blacks/contrast and POP to equal what many of the rave reviews have said. Any thoughts or hints on how to do that would be greatly appreciated. My first plasma panel looked similar until a fellow AVS owner recommend changes to two setting parameters. It caused a night and day difference and made that plasma jump out. Hopefully I can find a couple of changes that will do the same to this Epson. I have plenty of time before my trial period is up.


If you do, by all means let us know. .

I still have a glimmer of hope, but its fleeting.


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## JewDaddy

JonfromCB said:


> A couple more questions. Is your AVR firmware the latest available? How long is the cable you are using between the computer and your AVR? Have you tried a active cable with Spectra7 chipset, or fiber optic between the computer and AVR? Have you tried a different computer? Good Luck. It's good to know it's not your 5050.




Actually I just checked and my firmware is pretty far out of date. I’ll definitely try that next. My cable from projector to AVR is 50 ft. I have not tried one of the active cables or fiber optic. That might be my next step. The thing that just confuses the hell out of me is how my Roku, Xbox, PS4 and 4K Blu Ray Player all Run fine but the pc doesn’t. I have a monitor that is 4K HDR 144hz with G sync and this PC runs just fine with it. And I haven’t tried a different computer. The only other one I have is a surface pro. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JackB

Jstillen2 said:


> If you do, by all means let us know. .
> 
> I still have a glimmer of hope, but its fleeting.


I just tried the Cinema preset and it definitely looks better for the first Netflix I watched, Avengers Infinity War. I haven't touched the factory settings yet. Before I was on Natural for SDR and Digital Cinema for HDR. 

Some place I saved Alaric's HDR and SDR settings in Mem1 and Mem2 and gave them custom names. However, I haven't been able to find those. Where do I look?


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## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Actually I just checked and my firmware is pretty far out of date. I’ll definitely try that next. My cable from projector to AVR is 50 ft. I have not tried one of the active cables or fiber optic. That might be my next step. The thing that just confuses the hell out of me is how my Roku, Xbox, PS4 and 4K Blu Ray Player all Run fine but the pc doesn’t. I have a monitor that is 4K HDR 144hz with G sync and this PC runs just fine with it. And I haven’t tried a different computer. The only other one I have is a surface pro.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you are getting 4:4:4 12 Bit from your AVR to Projector on your current lead I can’t believe the Fibre HDMI will cure this, though that said I’m very surprised if your current lead isn’t fibre it’s giving you 4:4:4 12 Bit over such a distance as my QED didn’t.


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## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> If you are getting 4:4:4 12 Bit from your AVR to Projector on your current lead I can’t believe the Fibre HDMI will cure this, though that said I’m very surprised if your current lead isn’t fibre it’s giving you 4:4:4 12 Bit over such a distance as my QED didn’t.




Well it’s a $100 HDMI Insignia cable from Best Buy so I would hope for that price it does. Lol. So puzzled by this 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Well it’s a $100 HDMI Insignia cable from Best Buy so I would hope for that price it does. Lol. So puzzled by this
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The 10 meter QED Reference I was using cost £169 when bought in 2014 and it ain’t capable that’s why I was surprised a 50ft (15m) cable would be able.


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## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> The 10 meter QED Reference I was using cost £169 when bought in 2014 and it ain’t capable that’s why I was surprised a 50ft (15m) cable would be able.




Wow! For that price I’m surprised. I’ll let you know if this firmware update works. I posted in the Yamaha forum and home theater pc forum. Hoping someone chimes in. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jnation

JewDaddy said:


> Actually I just checked and my firmware is pretty far out of date. I’ll definitely try that next. My cable from projector to AVR is 50 ft. I have not tried one of the active cables or fiber optic. That might be my next step. The thing that just confuses the hell out of me is how my Roku, Xbox, PS4 and 4K Blu Ray Player all Run fine but the pc doesn’t. I have a monitor that is 4K HDR 144hz with G sync and this PC runs just fine with it. And I haven’t tried a different computer. The only other one I have is a surface pro.


 Apologies if this has already been covered (or I am just misunderstanding your problem) but I would suggest checking exactly what the outputs are for all your different sources, because they could all be 4K60P, but will have very different HDMI bit rates depending on the chroma sub-sampling and bit depth per channel. The fact you have a conventional copper 50 foot HDMI cable working in some instances suggests the data rate must be comparatively low for that cable to work.

For example 4K60P 4:2:0 8 bits per channel (bpc) only requires 8.9 Gbps data rate, 4K60P 4:2:0 10 bits per channel (HDR10, HLG)) requires 11.14 Gbps data rate, while 4K60P 4:2:0 12 bpc (Dolby vision) requires 13.4 Gbps. However, if your PC is outputting 4K60P 4:2:2: 8/10/12 bpc then it requires 17.8 Gbps. If your PC is outputting 4K60P 4:4:4 RGB 8bpc then it also requires 17.8 Gbps, but at 10 or 12 bpc it requires a cable capable of HDMI 2.1 data rates. I've attached a couple of sources for reference.


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## jnation

Probably also worth posting the attached HDMI survey/testing done by ArrowAV who is usually to be found in the pricier projector threads. I have seen quite a few posts where users having problems comment that HDMI cables must be fine because they used to work with say a HC5040 but don't appreciate that the full 18Gbps HDMI interface on the HC5050 might result in systems attempting to connect at rates that the cables can no longer support.


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## JewDaddy

jnation said:


> Apologies if this has already been covered (or I am just misunderstanding your problem) but I would suggest checking exactly what the outputs are for all your different sources, because they could all be 4K60P, but will have very different HDMI bit rates depending on the chroma sub-sampling and bit depth per channel. The fact you have a conventional copper 50 foot HDMI cable working in some instances suggests the data rate must be comparatively low for that cable to work.
> 
> For example 4K60P 4:2:0 8 bits per channel (bpc) only requires 8.9 Gbps data rate, 4K60P 4:2:0 10 bits per channel (HDR10, HLG)) requires 11.14 Gbps data rate, while 4K60P 4:2:0 12 bpc (Dolby vision) requires 13.4 Gbps. However, if your PC is outputting 4K60P 4:2:2: 8/10/12 bpc then it requires 17.8 Gbps. If your PC is outputting 4K60P 4:4:4 RGB 8bpc then it also requires 17.8 Gbps, but at 10 or 12 bpc it requires a cable capable of HDMI 2.1 data rates. I've attached a couple of sources for reference.




Wow! Awesome info. Thank you so much for sharing this. 

The reason I’m leaning towards the AVR and not the cable is because if I take that 50ft HDMI cable, run it straight to my PC, I get native 4K HDR 60hz. Correct me if my understanding of this subject is wrong but does that eliminate the HDMI cable from equation or is it still suspect?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Magnus_CA

Has anyone successfully updated the firmware on this thing? There is a LAN port. If you have it on your network downloading and applying an update from Epson.com should be easy as pie. Is the whole antiquated USB stick upgrade method the only way? 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Magnus_CA said:


> Has anyone successfully updated the firmware on this thing? There is a LAN port. If you have it on your network downloading and applying an update from Epson.com should be easy as pie. Is the whole antiquated USB stick upgrade method the only way?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


For the TW9400 which the 5050ub is based upon that is the only method of update according to the Epson UK site. I’d be surprised if the US version was different. For me it was a piece of pie to do, cheap USB stick that I stripped everything off it and just downloaded the firmware update from Epson to my computer and the copied to my stick.

After this is done you just follow the procedure on Epson’s site and it’s done.


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## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Wow! Awesome info. Thank you so much for sharing this.
> 
> The reason I’m leaning towards the AVR and not the cable is because if I take that 50ft HDMI cable, run it straight to my PC, I get native 4K HDR 60hz. Correct me if my understanding of this subject is wrong but does that eliminate the HDMI cable from equation or is it still suspect?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


When you run your lead from the PC direct to your Epson does the info menu on the Epson state 4:4:4 12Bit because that’s amazing for a regular HDMI lead of that kind of length.


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## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> When you run your lead from the PC direct to your Epson does the info menu on the Epson state 4:4:4 12Bit because that’s amazing for a regular HDMI lead of that kind of length.




Just ran the lead direct from my Projector to PC. By default without changing any settings it shows 8 Bit BT2020 HDR10. When I change to 4:4:4 it only gives me the option for 8 Bit. When I change to 4:2:2 it lets me choose 8, 10 or 12. Chose 12 and it worked and let me turn on HDR. So I was running 4:2:2 12 Bit HDR10. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Just ran the lead direct from my Projector to PC. By default without changing any settings it shows 8 Bit BT2020 HDR10. When I change to 4:4:4 it only gives me the option for 8 Bit. When I change to 4:2:2 it lets me choose 8, 10 or 12. Chose 12 and it worked and let me turn on HDR. So I was running 4:2:2 12 Bit HDR10.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's impressive, the Fiber HDMI will give you 4:4:4 12 Bit but you are getting enough for 24Hz Movies so no point upgrading unless your lead was the problem which it doesn't appear to be. Hopefully one of the guys on the AVR section can sort you out.

P.S. Meant to ask when you connected directly between PC and projector did you switch the Signal to Expanded because wasn't that the issue you were having in the first place?


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## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> That's impressive, the Fiber HDMI will give you 4:4:4 12 Bit but you are getting enough for 24Hz Movies so no point upgrading unless your lead was the problem which it doesn't appear to be. Hopefully one of the guys on the AVR section can sort you out.
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Meant to ask when you connected directly between PC and projector did you switch the Signal to Expanded because wasn't that the issue you were having in the first place?




I hope so too. I’ve posted over on the Nvidia Forums in case this is a card issue of some sort. 

So all the results I told you about in the above message is with the Projector set to Expanded. If it’s on Normal then I don’t have an option for Expanded color or HDR. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

So I finally tried to hook up my Xbox One X and I get a black screen with no option to change any menu settings in the Epson. The player was previously hooked up to my old projector and should be set up in 1080 P. Any thoughts? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Viche

Funny that when the 5040 came out and we all (I was one of the loudest voices) complained that Epson had cheaped out by not including an 18 gbps HDMI chipset, one fellow on here had responded that Epson had been doing us all a favor, and that they didn't want to have to deal with all of the angry calls of people with "non-working" projectors. I have to admit now that he was probably right about that part. I'm pretty sure that 80% of these issues are cable related and 95% are somehow bandwidth related (incorrect source/receiver settings, etc).


I'm still glad they finally pulled the trigger and went with the higher spec, though.  Bout time.


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## utkinpol

JackB said:


> And I'm not getting the "POP" 3D like image that we all hope for.


hi, i just saw that specific comment. is there something wrong with the way 3d support is implemented on the 5050?


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## jnation

JewDaddy said:


> Just ran the lead direct from my Projector to PC. By default without changing any settings it shows 8 Bit BT2020 HDR10. When I change to 4:4:4 it only gives me the option for 8 Bit. When I change to 4:2:2 it lets me choose 8, 10 or 12. Chose 12 and it worked and let me turn on HDR. So I was running 4:2:2 12 Bit HDR10.


 I assume these were these all at 4K60P and so are consistent with a full 18Gbps HDMI link. You also said in another reply that this was with Expanded setting on the Epson when the cable is direct from PC to Epson. However, based on your original comments, if you insert the AVR into the chain, without changing anything else, then the PC will only display at 1080P (Epson still set to Expanded) and you can only get a 4K60P capability from the PC via AVR to Epson with Epson set to Normal. If I have that correct then maybe there is an EDID problem with the AVR when between the PC and the Epson.

Things to try in order to narrow down the problem.

Seems a good idea to update your AVR's software, but worth checking the AVR forum for any gotchas first perhaps.
After updating the AVR (and assuming that doesn't fix the issue), maybe experiment with different nVidia outputs with the AVR in between (and Epson still set to Expanded) to see what if anything works at 4K60P. Maybe start at 4K60P 4:2:0 8bpc (i.e. only 9Gbps interface speed) and work up from there to try to establish at what point the PC fails to see 4K as a valid option. Something else to also try is to set the PC output to Full 0-255 or just Limited 16-235 Video range. Maybe the results of this exercise would provide further clues.
Got any friends that might be able to bring over a different AVR to try?
Edit: I should also add that it is possible that the AVR is not driving the 50 foot HDMI cable as strongly as the nVidia card is. So the cable might work when directly connected between the PC and Epson but might fail to pass the signal when between AVR and Epson. (I have to say that I am amazed that a 50 foot copper cable will reliably carry an 18Gbps signal, it is so atypical). If your other sources such as Xbox do support 4K60P via AVR and the 50 foot HDMI cable then I would check carefully to see exactly what signal is being received by the Epson in each case to make sure its an apples-to-apples bandwidth comparison to what the PC is generating.


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## --Sclaws

utkinpol said:


> hi, i just saw that specific comment. is there something wrong with the way 3d support is implemented on the 5050?


As a former 5040 owner/current 5050 owner, 3D works the same on both devices. I havent seen any difference yet, but have only watched 2 3D films (Prometheus and Rogue One).


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## utkinpol

--Sclaws said:


> As a former 5040 owner/current 5050 owner, 3D works the same on both devices. I havent seen any difference yet, but have only watched 2 3D films (Prometheus and Rogue One).


go figure, who knows. i just saw the comment, so, got curious.

i am still trying to find some place where it would be easy to see the exact list of differences between 4010/4050/5050 models, but, it does not seem to be any yet, it seems...


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## Busa

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So I finally tried to hook up my Xbox One X and I get a black screen with no option to change any menu settings in the Epson. The player was previously hooked up to my old projector and should be set up in 1080 P. Any thoughts?


I had problems getting my Xbox One S to output a 4K signal. I got all the checkboxes that it was recognizing the epson as a 4K display but when I selected 4K as the output, I'd get the black screen and after about 30 secs. it would revert back to 1080p and the picture would return. I messed around with several settings on the projector and the xbox to no avail. I dug into the menu on my AVR and there was a setting to upscale 1080p to 4K...once I enabled that, I was able to go in the xbox settings and select 4K and the projector reported it was displaying a 4K signal. Now that that was established, I disabled the AVR setting again, and the projector is still reporting that it's receiving a 4K signal, whereas before it wasn't...so not sure what happened.

I was getting the black screen also in one of the enhanced modes in the projector settings. I can't remember which one it was that gave me the screen but try changing it from whatever it is now. There's only the 2 options - Normal or Enhanced


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## --Sclaws

utkinpol said:


> go figure, who knows. i just saw the comment, so, got curious.
> 
> i am still trying to find some place where it would be easy to see the exact list of differences between 4010/4050/5050 models, but, it does not seem to be any yet, it seems...


Not sure about those three, but I saw a comparison of the 5040/5050. Not sure if I posted this in this thread before but http://www.audiogurus.com/learn/displays/projectors/epson-5050ub-vs-5040ub-projector/4916 was a good read IMO.


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## utkinpol

--Sclaws said:


> Not sure about those three, but I saw a comparison of the 5040/5050. Not sure if I posted this in this thread before but http://www.audiogurus.com/learn/displays/projectors/epson-5050ub-vs-5040ub-projector/4916 was a good read IMO.


me neither. i am curious if there is any info anywhere of what the factual measured contrast is on the 4010 model, as it is, as i understand, the same pretty much 5050 model, using same 18gbps chip, but, lower contrast. 
considering those contrast ratios from the recent 5050 review - see below, i just would love to know, what exactly is $1700 4010 does in the same area compared to $2999 5050. 

------------------------------
Contrast Ratios

No Iris, In My Theater

Cinema Bright Mode Medium- 5500:1 contrast
Cinema Mode Medium - 6200:1 contrast
Digital Cinema Mode Medium - 6100:1 contrast
Natural Mode Medium - 5700:1 contrast
Dynamic Mode Medium - 7846:1 contrast

Iris On, High Speed, In My Theater

Cinema Bright Mode Medium- 65000:1 contrast
Cinema Mode Medium - 150,000:1 contrast
Digital Cinema Mode Medium - 125,000:1 contrast
Natural Mode Medium - 73,000:1 contrast
Dynamic Mode Medium - 620,000:1 contrast


PS. i found 4010 review with that info:

All luminance values are expressed here in nits, also known as candelas per square meter (cd/m2). For those needing a frame of reference, 1fL equals 3.43 nits, or 1 nit equals .29fL.

The Home Cinema 4010 is a bright projector, but it won’t quite pump out the searing whites of some compact DLP models. I started by measuring its native contrast after calibration in the Medium bulb mode. Peak white was 213.3837 nits with .0495 nits black and 1257.8:1 contrast.

Setting the auto-iris to High Speed results in the greatest possible contrast. The Eco bulb mode is fine for small to medium theaters with screens up to around 100”. There, you’ll see 193.2571 nits white, .0128 nits black, and 15,134.4:1 contrast. For more light output, set the bulb to High. Then, the white level is 261.5022 nits with .0183 nits black and 14,264.2:1 contrast.

Without 3D glasses, I was unable to test the 3D mode.

HDR produces similar results to SDR. In Digital Cinema mode, with the bulb on High, and the auto-iris set to High Speed, I recorded 128.0429 nits white, .0079 nits black, and 16,274.9:1 contrast. This combination yields the highest dynamic range thanks to the internal color filter that enables the full DCI-P3 color gamut.


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## JewDaddy

jnation said:


> I assume these were these all at 4K60P and so are consistent with a full 18Gbps HDMI link. You also said in another reply that this was with Expanded setting on the Epson when the cable is direct from PC to Epson. However, based on your original comments, if you insert the AVR into the chain, without changing anything else, then the PC will only display at 1080P (Epson still set to Expanded) and you can only get a 4K60P capability from the PC via AVR to Epson with Epson set to Normal. If I have that correct then maybe there is an EDID problem with the AVR when between the PC and the Epson.
> 
> Things to try in order to narrow down the problem.
> 
> Seems a good idea to update your AVR's software, but worth checking the AVR forum for any gotchas first perhaps.
> After updating the AVR (and assuming that doesn't fix the issue), maybe experiment with different nVidia outputs with the AVR in between (and Epson still set to Expanded) to see what if anything works at 4K60P. Maybe start at 4K60P 4:2:0 8bpc (i.e. only 9Gbps interface speed) and work up from there to try to establish at what point the PC fails to see 4K as a valid option. Something else to also try is to set the PC output to Full 0-255 or just Limited 16-235 Video range. Maybe the results of this exercise would provide further clues.
> Got any friends that might be able to bring over a different AVR to try?




Hey thanks for all the suggestions!

I updated my firmware on the AVR and that didn’t fix it. So one thing that may have not come across clear is that I can get 4K at 60hz with the AVR and Expanded. It just doesn’t show that the native resolution is 4K and I have to manually select it. When I have the AVR in the chain and the projector set at Expanded, my PC defaults to 1080p and shows that as the native resolution. I can activate HDR also at the 1080p resolution. Now still with the AVR in the mix and on Expanded, I can change the resolution to 4K 60hz but I cannot get HDR at all. It just turns itself off. The only way to get 4K 60hz as the native default resolution is to either change the EDID on my projector to Normal or hook the pc directly to the projector. Only difference between those two is that with the AVR in the Mix and EDID at normal, even though I get 4K as the native resolution, I still can’t get HDR at that resolution. The ONLY way is to remove the AVR from the chain. 

Hope this makes sense! I’ll try your suggestions with the different outputs, color and range on the PC


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jnation

JewDaddy said:


> Hey thanks for all the suggestions!
> 
> I updated my firmware on the AVR and that didn’t fix it. So one thing that may have not come across clear is that I can get 4K at 60hz with the AVR and Expanded. It just doesn’t show that the native resolution is 4K and I have to manually select it. When I have the AVR in the chain and the projector set at Expanded, my PC defaults to 1080p and shows that as the native resolution. I can activate HDR also at the 1080p resolution. Now still with the AVR in the mix and on Expanded, I can change the resolution to 4K 60hz but I cannot get HDR at all. It just turns itself off. The only way to get 4K 60hz as the native default resolution is to either change the EDID on my projector to Normal or hook the pc directly to the projector. Only difference between those two is that with the AVR in the Mix and EDID at normal, even though I get 4K as the native resolution, I still can’t get HDR at that resolution. The ONLY way is to remove the AVR from the chain.
> 
> Hope this makes sense! I’ll try your suggestions with the different outputs, color and range on the PC


OK. I also added an edit to my original comment ref the 50 foot cable interactions with the other components that might be worth keeping in mind. My suggestion would be to be super methodical with your testing and make sure you are capturing and documenting in full every piece of data about what is being output from the source, what the AVR reports and what the Epson reports. So in each case you really want to capture resolution, refresh rate, chroma sub-sampling, and bits per channel. To be real safe, at this point it might be worth taking your projector down and only using short, Premium Certified cables from PC to AVR and AVR to Epson. Good luck!


----------



## Blitzdog

imagic said:


> So... I'm just dropping a quick hint here... the NY event will include a giveaway that will make one of the 25 registered attendees very happy. We still have a few spots so register to attend now.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/new-epson-4k-pro-uhd-projector-first-look-live-demo/


We'd love to see a few more Home Theater enthusiasts from NY/NJ register and join us next Tuesday for the unveiling. Epson always puts on a well catered affair and the venue is super cool! See you next week.

David


----------



## 9Point1

Is the case of the 5050 the same as the 5040? Just trying to see if the mounting pattern is exactly the same or different.


----------



## nickoakdl

9Point1 said:


> Is the case of the 5050 the same as the 5040? Just trying to see if the mounting pattern is exactly the same or different.


Yes.


----------



## Malodium

Blitzdog said:


> We'd love to see a few more Home Theater enthusiasts from NY/NJ register and join us next Tuesday for the unveiling. Epson always puts on a well catered affair and the venue is super cool! See you next week.
> 
> David


Dang, wish it were on my side of the country! Looks fun!


----------



## JackB

utkinpol said:


> hi, i just saw that specific comment. is there something wrong with the way 3d support is implemented on the 5050?


Sorry, my choice of words could be confusing. I was not referfing to actual 3D but 3D "like" images. When a 2D image looks a little like 3D and the colors and contrast are right on then it is often referred to as having POP.


----------



## skylarlove1999

utkinpol said:


> --Sclaws said:
> 
> 
> 
> As a former 5040 owner/current 5050 owner, 3D works the same on both devices. I havent seen any difference yet, but have only watched 2 3D films (Prometheus and Rogue One).
> 
> 
> 
> go figure, who knows. i just saw the comment, so, got curious.
> 
> i am still trying to find some place where it would be easy to see the exact list of differences between 4010/4050/5050 models, but, it does not seem to be any yet, it seems...
Click to expand...

I think the OP was just using "3D" in the figurative sense not literally. Meaning they thought the image would have more pop and depth . That is the way I took that comment. I owned a 5040 and now a 5050. I think the 3D imaging is the same on both with 5050b having a slight edge due to a percieved sharper image. Just my two cents.


----------



## skylarlove1999

nickoakdl said:


> 9Point1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the case of the 5050 the same as the 5040? Just trying to see if the mounting pattern is exactly the same or different.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes.
Click to expand...

Mounting pattern is identical on both 5040 and 5050.


----------



## mhutchins

Krbass said:


> I am coming from a BenQ w6000, I've had it since it launched and am on my 6th bulb. My current screen is 130" 16:9. I want an acoustically transparent screen for the new room I am building and have been considering spandex for cost reasons. I am shooting for a 140" cih, would the epson handle that size and does anyone here have experience with spandex vs a manufactured AT screen?


Hi Kr,

Purely based on lumen output, the projectors are very similar. Here is a basic comparison. Having said that, I think most people believe that the color output of the Epson is better than most, equivalent brightness, DLP projectors. Of course, it all depends on the color wheel in the DLP. If it is RGBRGB there may be no difference in the color output vs. the white output. The above observation is primarily aimed at the DLP projectors that use RGBW color wheels with the extra white segment to boost the total "white" output at the expense of color saturation.

With regards to the spandex screen (I have a 110" white on black spandex screen with an 8700UB): it has a very tight weave that is not noticeable beyond a few inches, so moire is a nonissue, as well. The acoustic transparency of spandex is also very good and has only the slightest rolloff of the highest frequencies. My recollection is less than 1dB at 16k-20k Hz. The primary downfall of Spandex is low gain, on the order of .8-.9. In a light controlled room you should not have any problems, especially if the front half of your theater has received the black velvet treatment.

Mike


----------



## jml123987

Was able to snag a basically new 5050b for a super deal from an internet reviewer. Loving the picture already. coming from a Sony vpl-hw40es the Hdr looks awesome. Can't wait to get it tweaked correctly and really show it off. Looking forward to other people's feedback on their settings etc. As I'm very much a hobbyist and not an expert in that regard. 

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidK442

mhutchins said:


> Hi Kr,
> 
> Purely based on lumen output, the projectors are very similar. Here is a basic comparison. Having said that, I think most people believe that the color output of the Epson is better than most, equivalent brightness, DLP projectors. Of course, it all depends on the color wheel in the DLP. If it is RGBRGB there may be no difference in the color output vs. the white output. The above observation is primarily aimed at the DLP projectors that use RGBW color wheels with the extra white segment to boost the total "white" output at the expense of color saturation.
> 
> With regards to the spandex screen (I have a 110" white on black spandex screen with an 8700UB): it has a very tight weave that is not noticeable beyond a few inches, so moire is a nonissue, as well. The acoustic transparency of spandex is also very good and has only the slightest rolloff of the highest frequencies. My recollection is less than 1dB at 16k-20k Hz. The primary downfall of Spandex is low gain, on the order of .8-.9. In a light controlled room you should not have any problems, especially if the front half of your theater has received the black velvet treatment.
> Mike


Ditto, except I would guess the gain of my matte white on black spandex screen is 0.75 to 0.80 after comparing it to known samples from Seymour.


----------



## Gellert1

If it helps any, I'm running the 5050ub on medium lamp power, dynamic mode, on a 1.3 gain 150" 2.35:1 dark grey screen and it's phenomenal 😁


----------



## groggrog

Gellert said:


> If it helps any, I'm running the 5050ub on medium lamp power, dynamic mode, on a 1.3 gain 150" 2.35:1 dark grey screen and it's phenomenal 😁


Dumb question: for me nothing looks better than when it's on high lamp power. Why keep it on medium when high looks better?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

groggrog said:


> Dumb question: for me nothing looks better than when it's on high lamp power. Why keep it on medium when high looks better?




Your running the bulb hotter it burns out quicker. I’ve never run mine out of Eco. I rather not deal with any more ambient noise and I’ll get 1,500 hours more out of the bulb. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## groggrog

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Your running the bulb hotter it burns out quicker. I’ve never run mine out of Eco. I rather not deal with any more ambient noise and I’ll get 1,500 hours more out of the bulb.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 Wow, 1500 more hours, yikes...


----------



## Gellert1

groggrog said:


> Dumb question: for me nothing looks better than when it's on high lamp power. Why keep it on medium when high looks better?


Not a dumb question at all. Running the 5050ub on high increases the fan noise a touch. Also, with that projector, it's simply too bright. You'd understand if you could see that in my setup. A super bright image doesn't mean it looks better than a medium one. Try watching a 3 hour action movie on my Epson (in bright mode) and your eyes will be hurting afterward.


----------



## Luminated67

Gellert said:


> Not a dumb question at all. Running the 5050ub on high increases the fan noise a touch. Also, with that projector, it's simply too bright. You'd understand if you could see that in my setup. A super bright image doesn't mean it looks better than a medium one. Try watching a 3 hour action movie on my Epson (in bright mode) and your eyes will be hurting afterward.


It greatly depends on your size of screen and where your lens zoom is at and type of room environment it's viewed in, I'm on a 100" screen at almost maximum zoom and a bat cave so really ECO is more than enough it either SDR or HDR for me, maybe if I used 3D I might stretch to MEDIUM but never HIGH as it's way too loud.


----------



## ckronengold

Blitzdog said:


> We'd love to see a few more Home Theater enthusiasts from NY/NJ register and join us next Tuesday for the unveiling. Epson always puts on a well catered affair and the venue is super cool! See you next week.
> 
> David


The fewer attendees, the higher my chances of winning! Everyone stay home!


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey Guys!!! Just got off the phone with Leo at Epson. He called to follow up with me on my firmware issue. Looks like Epson loaded the wrong firmware on their website for the 5050 which is why it didn’t work. Lol

It’s been fixed so everyone that wants to update should be able to now. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

JewDaddy said:


> Hey Guys!!! Just got off the phone with Leo at Epson. He called to follow up with me on my firmware issue. Looks like Epson loaded the wrong firmware on their website for the 5050 which is why it didn’t work. Lol
> 
> It’s been fixed so everyone that wants to update should be able to now. Good luck!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Awesome! Thanks!


----------



## Sparty1020

Has anyone tried setting up the 5050 on a surface/mount off to the side? Curious to see how well the lens shift works and if there is a difference in picture quality.

Thanks in advance


----------



## ezelkow1

Sparty1020 said:


> Has anyone tried setting up the 5050 on a surface/mount off to the side? Curious to see how well the lens shift works and if there is a difference in picture quality.
> 
> Thanks in advance


I use mine on a bookshelf behind the couch, same setup I had for my 5020. So its surface mount, but its also fairly straight on, maybe off by a foot or so from center. Never had an issue with either as far as picture quality or issues. Also with the motorized setup it it makes it 100x easier to get it exact, using the manual wheels was always hit or miss, you'd move one, the other would move slightly, etc. Now it was


----------



## Sparty1020

ezelkow1 said:


> I use mine on a bookshelf behind the couch, same setup I had for my 5020. So its surface mount, but its also fairly straight on, maybe off by a foot or so from center. Never had an issue with either as far as picture quality or issues. Also with the motorized setup it it makes it 100x easier to get it exact, using the manual wheels was always hit or miss, you'd move one, the other would move slightly, etc. Now it was


----------



## Hawkmarket

Question about HDMI reliability. I had my basement finished 3 years ago and at the time thought I bought the best HDMI cable I could but it's around 30 feet so who the hell knows if it will now send a 4K projector signal properly. I don't even begin to know what to do if it doesn't. However, my installers ran a few extra Cat 6 lines as well. I see there are devices for HDMI over Cat 6 such as...
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-H...487785&sr=8-1&keywords=HD+base+tlite+extender


I'm a little out of my depth with this so does anyone know if these devices work properly and you can send a 4K signal over Cat 6 and then use short HDMI cables at either end to complete the connection. Is this a reliable solution? I'm making the jump from the Epson 3700 to some sort of 4K..ish solution later this summer so trying to anticipate problems and plan for solutions ahead of time.


----------



## Gellert1

Hawkmarket said:


> Question about HDMI reliability. I had my basement finished 3 years ago and at the time thought I bought the best HDMI cable I could but it's around 30 feet so who the hell knows if it will now send a 4K projector signal properly. I don't even begin to know what to do if it doesn't. However, my installers ran a few extra Cat 6 lines as well. I see there are devices for HDMI over Cat 6 such as...
> https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-H...487785&sr=8-1&keywords=HD+base+tlite+extender
> 
> 
> I'm a little out of my depth with this so does anyone know if these devices work properly and you can send a 4K signal over Cat 6 and then use short HDMI cables at either end to complete the connection. Is this a reliable solution? I'm making the jump from the Epson 3700 to some sort of 4K..ish solution later this summer so trying to anticipate problems and plan for solutions ahead of time.


My simple solution would be to run a 50 foot fiber optic HDMI cable to replace the one you have now. I just had one installed (through my attic) into my 5050ub from my receiver 30 feet away. Zero issues and I'm taking full advantage of 4K/60hz 18gbps. It cost just $80.
Look up Delong 50' HDMI cable on Amazon 👍


----------



## Hawkmarket

Gellert said:


> My simple solution would be to run a 50 foot fiber optic HDMI cable to replace the one you have now. I just had one installed (through my attic) into my 5050ub from my receiver 30 feet away. Zero issues and I'm taking full advantage of 4K/60hz 18gbps. It cost just $80.
> Look up Delong 50' HDMI cable on Amazon 👍



That sounds great, I'm just not sure how to "replace" what I have now that it's finished without tearing into the ceiling. All the cables were put in ahead of time before the drywall. I don't believe there's a conduit/tube running from my components to my projector in the ceiling. Maybe I'll be surprised and what I have will work, I'm just thinking the odds are pretty low.


----------



## JonfromCB

Hawkmarket said:


> Question about HDMI reliability. I had my basement finished 3 years ago and at the time thought I bought the best HDMI cable I could but it's around 30 feet so who the hell knows if it will now send a 4K projector signal properly. I don't even begin to know what to do if it doesn't. However, my installers ran a few extra Cat 6 lines as well. I see there are devices for HDMI over Cat 6 such as...
> https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-H...487785&sr=8-1&keywords=HD+base+tlite+extender
> 
> 
> I'm a little out of my depth with this so does anyone know if these devices work properly and you can send a 4K signal over Cat 6 and then use short HDMI cables at either end to complete the connection. Is this a reliable solution? I'm making the jump from the Epson 3700 to some sort of 4K..ish solution later this summer so trying to anticipate problems and plan for solutions ahead of time.


It's possible that your HDMI cable will work. The best way to know is to test it or have it tested...but...it's not a safe assumption that a three year old cable was not 18Gbp/60hz capable. If you have the cable information you can try to contact the manufacturer or retailer and try to cross reference it's specs'. I know that you can use cat 6, but am not personally familiar with the details. Perhaps someone else can speak up on the details. You can contact a reputable company like Sewell that makes all the components and ask them what you would need and how to do it. Personally I would avoid any HDMI workaround that adds connections and devices as it's complex and I'm not an advocate of the signal losses and interferences introduced with any additional junctions/connections/boxes or signal transfer from one type of cable to another. High quality 18Gbps/60hz active or fiber optic 30 foot cables are cheap, reliable, and the way to go as far as I'm concerned. 

Replacing and running new cables is what it is. It can be easy if your original installer was thinking ahead, used conduits and routes that make it easy to pull a new cable through. But unfortunately, most don't make it easy and were not thinking about future replacement of their installations in which case it can mean holes in walls and drywall to get the old stuff out and the new stuff in. It sucks tearing up relatively new construction to update cables and wires....I've been there and done that. When it comes to media rooms and home theaters running all system wiring through dedicated conduits or seperate "free moving" routes is most often a lesson learned the hard way soon after construction. Good Luck


----------



## Hawkmarket

JonfromCB said:


> It's possible that your HDMI cable will work. The best way to know is to test it or have it tested...but...it's not a safe assumption that a three year old cable was not 18Gbp/60hz capable. If you have the cable information you can try to contact the manufacturer or retailer and try to cross reference it's specs'. I know that you can use cat 6, but am not personally familiar with the details. Perhaps someone else can speak up on the details. You can contact a reputable company like Sewell that makes all the components and ask them what you would need and how to do it. Personally I would avoid any HDMI workaround that adds connections and devices as it's complex and I'm not an advocate of the signal losses and interferences introduced with any additional junctions/connections/boxes or signal transfer from one type of cable to another. High quality 18Gbps/60hz active or fiber optic 30 foot cables are cheap, reliable, and the way to go as far as I'm concerned.
> 
> Replacing and running new cables is what it is. It can be easy if your original installer was thinking ahead, used conduits and routes that make it easy to pull a new cable through. But unfortunately, most don't make it easy and were not thinking about future replacement of their installations in which case it can mean holes in walls and drywall to get the old stuff out and the new stuff in. It sucks tearing up relatively new construction to update cables and wires....I've been there and done that. When it comes to media rooms and home theaters running all system wiring through dedicated conduits or seperate "free moving" routes is most often a lesson learned the hard way soon after construction. Good Luck



Much appreciated. I've contacted the electrical company that put it in to see about what it would take to do a cable replacement. I would agree the fewer handoffs between the component and the projector, the better. Obviously I'll first test it out, but just trying to think proactively about the fix if it doesn't work right away. I have no experience with the Cat 6 route and quite frankly have never heard it discussed much so I didn't know if anyone here had any experience. I will do all I can to avoid that.


----------



## Gellert1

Hawkmarket said:


> Much appreciated. I've contacted the electrical company that put it in to see about what it would take to do a cable replacement. I would agree the fewer handoffs between the component and the projector, the better. Obviously I'll first test it out, but just trying to think proactively about the fix if it doesn't work right away. I have no experience with the Cat 6 route and quite frankly have never heard it discussed much so I didn't know if anyone here had any experience. I will do all I can to avoid that.


I forgot to mention that the wireless transmitter and receiver of Epson's 5050ube model works extremely well and could be what you're looking for without doing a seek and swap mission. The bandwidth is a touch lower than HDMI, 4K/30 instead of 4K/60.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Gellert said:


> I forgot to mention that the wireless transmitter and receiver of Epson's 5050ube model works extremely well and could be what you're looking for without doing a seek and swap mission. The bandwidth is a touch lower than HDMI, 4K/30 instead of 4K/60.


Assuming that's just the wireless bandwidth that's a touch lower. As long as it plays 4K HDR I'm good. I don't game on this so I don't need 4K HDR 60fps. I ALWAYS prefer a wired route if possible but this may work well also.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Blitzdog said:
> 
> 
> 
> We'd love to see a few more Home Theater enthusiasts from NY/NJ register and join us next Tuesday for the unveiling. Epson always puts on a well catered affair and the venue is super cool! See you next week.
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fewer attendees, the higher my chances of winning! Everyone stay home!
Click to expand...

Spoken like a true home theater enthusiast. LOL.


----------



## ckronengold

skylarlove1999 said:


> Spoken like a true home theater enthusiast. LOL.


At least like one balancing WAF and budget!

Very much looking forward to the event. Space looks amazing.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoken like a true home theater enthusiast. LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> At least like one balancing WAF and budget!
> 
> Very much looking forward to the event. Space looks amazing.
Click to expand...

Please post a link to the space. Their overall space looks particularly inviting with the open floor plan and kitchen area and conference room but I didn't see a theater big enough for 25 guests plus the guests of honor... I am looking forward to the event as well.


----------



## ckronengold

Hawkmarket said:


> I had my basement finished 3 years ago and at the time thought I bought the best HDMI cable I could but it's around 30 feet so who the hell knows if it will now send a 4K projector signal properly. I don't even begin to know what to do if it doesn't. However, my installers ran a few extra Cat 6 lines as well.


I feel your pain. I ripped open the soffit of my basement less than a year ago. We bought new construction, but it was finished before we got on the scene. Suffice it to say, they weren't thinking about home theater, home automation (Hell, there was only one ethernet cable in the whole house, and they damaged it during the install).

I fought with the electrician on how I wanted the wires run. He insisted he knew better. He did not. He bundled up a full 5.1.4 set of speaker wire and just yanked it through the soffit and under the HVAC. 

Fast forward 9 months and I need to run a new 18gb HDMI through the soffit with no way to get it through. Had to rip it all open again. But at least I was smart enough to put conduit in this time. I untangled everything back to the center of the room and ran 3 lines of 1" smurf tube to my media closet. I'm still thinking about adding a 4th before I close up shop. 

Back to you, though --- if you have a few extra CAT6 runs, you can tug on one of them and see if you can even pull anything through. Just tie a chase to the other end so you can pull it back if you get stuck, or have something to tie your new HDMI to if you can make it the whole way. 

As far as your HDMI over CAT6 goes, there are a lot of people who swear by baluns. Give it a shot. I see that the 4k ones start around $100. The cheaper ones only do 1080p.

But as was stated earlier, every junction / connection is another spot for a potential handshake problem.


----------



## ckronengold

skylarlove1999 said:


> Please post a link to the space. Their overall space looks particularly inviting with the open floor plan and kitchen area and conference room but I didn't see a theater big enough for 25 guests plus the guests of honor... I am looking forward to the event as well.


http://gilmoressoundadvice.com/index.php/showroom/

Take the virtual tour: https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=8mK7RtcDu7B

Plenty of space.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Please post a link to the space. Their overall space looks particularly inviting with the open floor plan and kitchen area and conference room but I didn't see a theater big enough for 25 guests plus the guests of honor... I am looking forward to the event as well.
> 
> 
> 
> http://gilmoressoundadvice.com/index.php/showroom/
> 
> Take the virtual tour: https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=8mK7RtcDu7B
> 
> Plenty of space.
Click to expand...

Agreed looks like a great place for watching the Super Bowl and socializing. I was looking for more of a dedicated theater space because I am that much of a home theater nerd and just wanted to watch movies and talk very little LOL.


----------



## B-AV

Regarding the 5050ub firmware update: Spoke with Epson and they mistakenly listed the 5050 in the group of other projectors. The 5050ub has a different firmware file. They updated the web site (projector firmware download page) with a new 5050ub section with the correct firmware file. I just downloaded it and updated firmware successfully on my 5050ub. Thanks.


----------



## JackB

B-AV said:


> Regarding the 5050ub firmware update: Spoke with Epson and they mistakenly listed the 5050 in the group of other projectors. The 5050ub has a different firmware file. They updated the web site (projector firmware download page) with a new 5050ub section with the correct firmware file. I just downloaded it and updated firmware successfully on my 5050ub. Thanks.


Could you show a picture or type out what your firmware listing is. It would tell me if my 5050 was the latest or not. BTW, I don't recall seeing what the new release did. Do you know?


----------



## MidnightWatcher

I think it now allows FI with 4K enhance enabled for 1080p sources.


----------



## Magnus_CA

So is the consensus that a fiber optic HDMI cable is the way to go to avoid most cable-related headaches? Any model/brand in particular? How about Monoprice? 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Jstillen2

So.... I am still in my return to Best Buy window (I should have gone with a better return policy seller, lessen learned)

I keep switching from my new 5050ub ($2800ish) to my BenQ 2050 ($600ish). I'm comparing what a 2500-3000 upgrade gets me. My conclusion is....

5050 pros:
- Better blacks and contrast (not mond blowing, but noticable)
- Better resolution (at a cost) - meaning that this projector seems to bring out a DOF effect, where the main image on screen is noticably more clear and detailed, whereas the background has more blur. On the 2050, the main image is slightly less detailed, but the background is a closer match. 

5050 cons:
-More judder, more noticable when gaming on my PC. Quick movements in shooters, the backgrouds noticably jumps, whereas in the 2050 you hardly notice. 
-More headaches when using it as a 120" desktop monitor. This seems to be from the brightness as well as the less detail in text and numbers on screen. 


My 2050 was a "all in one", that I loved and still love. The 5050 was my entry into 4k movies and gaming, while upgrading my contrast and black detail. I am still considering returning the 5050 and taking a 15% restocking hit, because I am sadly not seeing a justified jump in performance. I would really like to get a jump in 4k/better blacks. I would consider keeping the 5050 if I could lessen the motion issues vs my BenQ. 


Anyone have any ideas before I throw away $400 bucks on a Whoops purchase? On paper, the 5050 is perfect. I want to like this darn thing so much. Any help/advice is appreciated. :crying:


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Sounds like you want a JVC NX5.


----------



## ckronengold

Magnus_CA said:


> So is the consensus that a fiber optic HDMI cable is the way to go to avoid most cable-related headaches? Any model/brand in particular? How about Monoprice?


I just caught this one for $37 as a Lightning Deal on Amazon. Figured at that price is was worth a shot. 

ATZEBE 4k Optical HDMI Cable - 30ft, HDMI Fiber Optic Cable Supports [email protected], 4:4:4, HDR10, Dolby Vision, ARC, HDCP2.2, 18Gbps, Slim & Flexible HDMI Active Fiber Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YGG68/


----------



## Luminated67

ckronengold said:


> I just caught this one for $37 as a Lightning Deal on Amazon. Figured at that price is was worth a shot.
> 
> ATZEBE 4k Optical HDMI Cable - 30ft, HDMI Fiber Optic Cable Supports [email protected], 4:4:4, HDR10, Dolby Vision, ARC, HDCP2.2, 18Gbps, Slim & Flexible HDMI Active Fiber Cable
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YGG68/


This is the one I’m using.


----------



## JonfromCB

Magnus_CA said:


> So is the consensus that a fiber optic HDMI cable is the way to go to avoid most cable-related headaches? Any model/brand in particular? How about Monoprice?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


Here's what I think...and think that I know, lol. For long runs, (lets say over 50') fiber optic seems to be the way to go if you are looking for 18Gbps/60 hz support. BUT....lots of buyer reviews that I've seen indicate cables have failed to perform. From personal experience and discussions with a couple of low-voltage installers and AV installers a major cause of cable failure is quite often the result of damage during installation such as narrow degree bends and damage to internal plug connections during "pulls". It appears the "slim" and small gauge conventional HDMI cables and the slim fiber optic cables are most vulnerable to damage. Also pay attention to the plug length on fiber optic cables. They are longer than the plugs on conventional wire HDMI cables and might cause problems if you have to fish them through holes in wall studs or tight angles/bends. All that being said, the consensus seems to be fiber optics have a higher success rate for long runs 

Personally for runs up to 50" I prefer the heaviest gauge "active cables". I have a preference for Monoprice "Cabernet" active cables with the Spectra7 chipset . They have a straight forward lifetime warranty....BUT you've got to keep the original sales paperwork and return the cable, which can be a PITA if you've run the cable through walls, but that's fair and to be expected. 

A word of caution....read the fine print! Many cable descriptions say they support "HDR", "deep color" "latest specifications", "highest speed", "4K", etc, but in the fine print say they are only 10GBps, 30hz, or are "active" cables that still have the "Redmere" chips instead of the newer "Spectra7" chips that replaced the "Redmere" chipsets. Make sure you know the claimed cable specs in terms of data, speed and chipset for active cables. 

Whatever you buy, I recommend making sure the product is guaranteed and has a straight forward return policy if it doesn't work or fails. Another good tip I got on this forum was to order two cables at a time....if one doesn't work return it instead of having wait to get a second. Hope that helps


----------



## ckronengold

Luminated67 said:


> This is the one I’m using.


Thats how it ended up in my Home Theater Wish List and got notified about the lightning deal. 

Where should I send your cut? 

Seriously, thanks calling that out.


----------



## B-AV

JackB said:


> B-AV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the 5050ub firmware update: Spoke with Epson and they mistakenly listed the 5050 in the group of other projectors. The 5050ub has a different firmware file. They updated the web site (projector firmware download page) with a new 5050ub section with the correct firmware file. I just downloaded it and updated firmware successfully on my 5050ub. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Could you show a picture or type out what your firmware listing is. It would tell me if my 5050 was the latest or not. BTW, I don't recall seeing what the new release did. Do you know?
Click to expand...

I’m not sure what changed with the upgrade (believe I still need to disable 4K enhance on 1080 source material). Post firmware update, Main is 8Z009564FNWWV101 and Video2 is 8YL2FLMV100. Firmware update may have only updated Main. 

My last challenge is getting 18gbps on the long run. I can get it on a 6 foot cable to the projector but not on the two longer cables (one optical and one active copper - both of which supposedly supported 18gbps I thought). Hoping it’s just the long cable challenge (finding the right cable combination, etc.) that would happen on many projectors and not an issue with the HDMI implementation on the projector. Although I don’t really have anything yet that I need to drive at 18gbps (Netflix 4K HDR10 @ 24fps 12 bit 4:2:2 is under that and works fine, for example).


----------



## JewDaddy

B-AV said:


> I’m not sure what changed with the upgrade (believe I still need to disable 4K enhance on 1080 source material). Post firmware update, Main is 8Z009564FNWWV101 and Video2 is 8YL2FLMV100. Firmware update may have only updated Main.



When I talked to the Epson rep he told me that FI was not added to a 4K enhanced source and that the firmware update is not for anything we would notice. I believe he explained that it had something to do with the Lens Iris matching up correctly to the number in the menu. Maybe with the number when you’re looking at how open or closed you want the iris. He said that this update in no way shape or form improved the picture. 

Oh well, Epson still replaced it for me with a brand new one that actually turned out WAAAAAAAY better than the original one I had. The overall sharpness and focus of the picture is far superior than what I had before. I think someone stated on here before that when they had their pc hooked up to the 5050, the bottom right corner of the picture was blurry and not in focus. That’s what I was experiencing. No matter how I adjusted the focus, I could never get the bottom right corner to be in decent focus. Luckily this new one is perfect. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

JewDaddy said:


> When I talked to the Epson rep he told me that FI was not added to a 4K enhanced source and that the firmware update is not for anything we would notice. I believe he explained that it had something to do with the Lens Iris matching up correctly to the number in the menu. Maybe with the number when you’re looking at how open or closed you want the iris. He said that this update in no way shape or form improved the picture.
> 
> Oh well, Epson still replaced it for me with a brand new one that actually turned out WAAAAAAAY better than the original one I had. The overall sharpness and focus of the picture is far superior than what I had before. I think someone stated on here before that when they had their pc hooked up to the 5050, the bottom right corner of the picture was blurry and not in focus. That’s what I was experiencing. No matter how I adjusted the focus, I could never get the bottom right corner to be in decent focus. Luckily this new one is perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Having never owned a projector before and being just about ready to pull the trigger since this projector finally has everything I need, it's pretty stressful knowing that I'll have no idea if the one I get is actually any good. 

Wish I could buy two 5050s, compare them, and keep the one that's better.


----------



## JewDaddy

Viche said:


> Having never owned a projector before and being just about ready to pull the trigger since this projector finally has everything I need, it's pretty stressful knowing that I'll have no idea if the one I get is actually any good.
> 
> 
> 
> Wish I could buy two 5050s, compare them, and keep the one that's better.




Oh man I know what you mean. Having owned many projectors, that fear never truly goes away. Lol

My suggestion is to buy from a website or store that has a good return policy. This way, even if everything with the projector is perfect, you can still return if you don’t like it. The good thing about Epson is that they will replace your unit with a different one if you’re experiencing an issue. And that goes for focus/sharpness uniformity. They’ve always been a pleasure to work with. Two year warranty through them and they have an exchange policy which allows you to receive a replacement within 1-2 days if needed. If this checks all your boxes I say go for it!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

JewDaddy said:


> Oh man I know what you mean. Having owned many projectors, that fear never truly goes away. Lol
> 
> My suggestion is to buy from a website or store that has a good return policy. This way, even if everything with the projector is perfect, you can still return if you don’t like it. The good thing about Epson is that they will replace your unit with a different one if you’re experiencing an issue. And that goes for focus/sharpness uniformity. They’ve always been a pleasure to work with. Two year warranty through them and they have an exchange policy which allows you to receive a replacement within 1-2 days if needed. If this checks all your boxes I say go for it!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




My second unit definitely seems sharper when I set it up and was tinkering with the focus. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

CallingMrBenzo said:


> My second unit definitely seems sharper when I set it up and was tinkering with the focus.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




That’s great! I noticed instantly that this unit was much sharper. Made me wonder how many people will get units that aren’t fully focused and they end up just living with it. Or, people aren’t as anal as some of us on here and they would never know the difference. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

JewDaddy said:


> Oh man I know what you mean. Having owned many projectors, that fear never truly goes away. Lol
> 
> My suggestion is to buy from a website or store that has a good return policy. This way, even if everything with the projector is perfect, you can still return if you don’t like it. The good thing about Epson is that they will replace your unit with a different one if you’re experiencing an issue. And that goes for focus/sharpness uniformity. They’ve always been a pleasure to work with. Two year warranty through them and they have an exchange policy which allows you to receive a replacement within 1-2 days if needed. If this checks all your boxes I say go for it!!!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks man. Is it still the case that replacements may or may not be new? Did you get a new one? 

I wish there was some way to share accurate screen shots that would allow other members on here to grade your projector's output.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Jstillen2 said:


> So.... I am still in my return to Best Buy window (I should have gone with a better return policy seller, lessen learned)
> 
> I keep switching from my new 5050ub ($2800ish) to my BenQ 2050 ($600ish). I'm comparing what a 2500-3000 upgrade gets me. My conclusion is....
> 
> 5050 pros:
> - Better blacks and contrast (not mond blowing, but noticable)
> - Better resolution (at a cost) - meaning that this projector seems to bring out a DOF effect, where the main image on screen is noticably more clear and detailed, whereas the background has more blur. On the 2050, the main image is slightly less detailed, but the background is a closer match.
> 
> 5050 cons:
> -More judder, more noticable when gaming on my PC. Quick movements in shooters, the backgrouds noticably jumps, whereas in the 2050 you hardly notice.
> -More headaches when using it as a 120" desktop monitor. This seems to be from the brightness as well as the less detail in text and numbers on screen.
> 
> 
> My 2050 was a "all in one", that I loved and still love. The 5050 was my entry into 4k movies and gaming, while upgrading my contrast and black detail. I am still considering returning the 5050 and taking a 15% restocking hit, because I am sadly not seeing a justified jump in performance. I would really like to get a jump in 4k/better blacks. I would consider keeping the 5050 if I could lessen the motion issues vs my BenQ.
> 
> 
> Anyone have any ideas before I throw away $400 bucks on a Whoops purchase? On paper, the 5050 is perfect. I want to like this darn thing so much. Any help/advice is appreciated.


If you ultimately decide it is not for you Best Buy will usually work with you on the restocking fee if you buy something of equal or greater value. A better projector will always bring out the best in the original content but will also accentuate the lesser qualities in original content. Since backgrounds are just that, they are not meant to be the focus of the scene, therefore they tend to be more granular by nature rather than viewing fine details. Maybe watch some more content and see if your mind and eyes can make the adjustments. As for the blacks and contrast do you have a relatively dark colored room with very little reflections and ambient light? If not a projector designed for deeper blacks and higher contrast will not perform as such if the room is fighting against those two features. Maybe a change in room conditions or a different screen such as a gray ambient light reducing screen could help. If you are getting headaches you may need to adjust the power mode and color mode to decrease overall brightness. A professional calibration would most likely make a tremendous difference addressing all of your issues rather than eating $400 use that for the calibration. I just love my 5050ub. I can't imagine your $600 projector throws a better image with the right room conditions, screen and proper calibration. YMMV. Each person views things through their own eyes so what one person sees as a sunny day is a cloudy day to another. I hope you can find your version of a sunny day.


----------



## JewDaddy

Viche said:


> Thanks man. Is it still the case that replacements may or may not be new? Did you get a new one?
> 
> I wish there was some way to share accurate screen shots that would allow other members on here to grade your projector's output.




Got a brand new replacement. I believe when you have an issue early on like I did, they will replace with a new projector. A year down the road? Probably not. Most likely will be a refurbished unit. 

So the best way for me to gauge the overall focus of the screen is by using an excel spreadsheet via my PC and looking at the text across the entire screen. And the text is unforgiving so it will point out any flaws the focus might have. It’s a great test to run. 

I’m not sure how to share accurate screenshots but I would be more than willing if there’s a way to do it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

Is there a horizontal keystone adjustment anywhere? or just vertical? 

I can't seem to find any info on it, so I suspect its a feature the 5050 doesn't have, but that would seem like a pretty significant oversight, given how much lens shift the projector supports. 

Epson does have a page on Horizontal and Vertical keystone (https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd3/cpd39100/Source/Basic_Use/Tasks/image_shape_keystone_hv.html but nothing specific to the 5050. 

And the manual only mentions vertical keystone. I'm using about 2' of lens shift, and when I project the test pattern, my top edge is just slightly askew. Like 1-2 degrees. One little keystone tweak is all it needs, but I don't see any way to do that.


----------



## JackB

ckronengold said:


> Is there a horizontal keystone adjustment anywhere? or just vertical?
> 
> I can't seem to find any info on it, so I suspect its a feature the 5050 doesn't have, but that would seem like a pretty significant oversight, given how much lens shift the projector supports.
> 
> Epson does have a page on Horizontal and Vertical keystone (https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd3/cpd39100/Source/Basic_Use/Tasks/image_shape_keystone_hv.html but nothing specific to the 5050.
> 
> And the manual only mentions vertical keystone. I'm using about 2' of lens shift, and when I project the test pattern, my top edge is just slightly askew. Like 1-2 degrees. One little keystone tweak is all it needs, but I don't see any way to do that.


Are you sure you have done everything possible to re-align the projector to get the picture square? I'm sure you are aware of the effect keystone correction has on the picture.


----------



## ckronengold

JackB said:


> Are you sure you have done everything possible to re-align the projector to get the picture square? I'm sure you are aware of the effect keystone correction has on the picture.


Not at all sure. I thought the normal lens shift moved the picture over, and mostly prevented any distortion of the shape. But there's only so much you can do to overcome the physics or shooting light at an angle. And you'd use keystone to compensate for the alignment issues that the lens shift creates. 

Open to suggestions. Very appreciative of anything you'd recommend I try.


----------



## JackB

ckronengold said:


> Not at all sure. I thought the normal lens shift moved the picture over, and mostly prevented any distortion of the shape. But there's only so much you can do to overcome the physics or shooting light at an angle. And you'd use keystone to compensate for the alignment issues that the lens shift creates.
> 
> Open to suggestions. Very appreciative of anything you'd recommend I try.


Remember that the distance between the center of the lens and the corners of the screen should be identical if the surface of the lens is parallel to the surface of the screen. If they are not then you will get the effect you are seeing. One easy method is to use a laser pointer measuring device centered over the center of the lens.


----------



## Luminated67

ckronengold said:


> Is there a horizontal keystone adjustment anywhere? or just vertical?
> 
> I can't seem to find any info on it, so I suspect its a feature the 5050 doesn't have, but that would seem like a pretty significant oversight, given how much lens shift the projector supports.
> 
> Epson does have a page on Horizontal and Vertical keystone (https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd3/cpd39100/Source/Basic_Use/Tasks/image_shape_keystone_hv.html but nothing specific to the 5050.
> 
> And the manual only mentions vertical keystone. I'm using about 2' of lens shift, and when I project the test pattern, my top edge is just slightly askew. Like 1-2 degrees. One little keystone tweak is all it needs, but I don't see any way to do that.


DO NOT USE KEYSTONE. 

Got mine calibrated yesterday by probably the best in the UK and as soon as the first test pattern was put on the screen Gordon noticed its was throwing up weird distortions, quick check on the menu and the keystone was only one click off zero, shocked such a small adjustment could have that big affect on what you see.

PLEASE GET THE IMAGE SQUARE TO THE WALL and let the lens shift do the minor adjustments needed.


----------



## ckronengold

Luminated67 said:


> [
> 
> PLEASE GET THE IMAGE SQUARE TO THE WALL and let the lens shift do the minor adjustments needed.


Ah, if it were that simple. I'd have it square to the wall if I didn't mind a lally pole in the middle of my screen. 

I assure you, the projector is as close to square as it's going to get. 

The distortion is very minor. Only noticeable when the test pattern is on the screen and the top line is right against the black velvet frame. Once the line is entirely on the screen, the offset is imperceptable. 

I can absolutely live with it. I was just trying to chase down perfection. If using keystone causes any issue with the image at all, I won't use it.


----------



## Viche

ckronengold said:


> Ah, if it were that simple. I'd have it square to the wall if I didn't mind a lally pole in the middle of my screen.
> 
> I assure you, the projector is as close to square as it's going to get.
> 
> The distortion is very minor. Only noticeable when the test pattern is on the screen and the top line is right against the black velvet frame. Once the line is entirely on the screen, the offset is imperceptable.
> 
> I can absolutely live with it. I was just trying to chase down perfection. If using keystone causes any issue with the image at all, I won't use it.



Even one degree of keystone prevents the projector from sending a pixel per pixel representation of the image to the screen. It will force the projector to use more or less than one pixel to represent each pixel of data in the source material. That will introduce a slight blur. Don't do it.


----------



## JackB

ckronengold said:


> Ah, if it were that simple. I'd have it square to the wall if I didn't mind a lally pole in the middle of my screen.
> 
> I assure you, the projector is as close to square as it's going to get.
> 
> The distortion is very minor. Only noticeable when the test pattern is on the screen and the top line is right against the black velvet frame. Once the line is entirely on the screen, the offset is imperceptable.
> 
> I can absolutely live with it. I was just trying to chase down perfection. If using keystone causes any issue with the image at all, I won't use it.


How about the old expression "Try it, buy it"? Use the keystone and see what it looks like. Let your eyes be the judge.


----------



## ckronengold

JackB said:


> How about the old expression "Try it, buy it"? Use the keystone and see what it looks like. Let your eyes be the judge.


Thats where I was at. But I'm still not sure (since there seems to be unanimous consent not to use keystone unless its an emergency) that there's a horizontal keystone adjustment at all, or if there's only vertical. 

So there may not be anything to try anyway. 

Fortunately its such a minor adjustment that any impact in picture quality isn't worth doing. Honestly about 1 degree of tilt on the top line of the test pattern. I would never have noticed it if I didn't have to make an adjustment to my mount and didn't get it 100% back to the same spot.


----------



## ckronengold

Viche said:


> Even one degree of keystone prevents the projector from sending a pixel per pixel representation of the image to the screen. It will force the projector to use more or less than one pixel to represent each pixel of data in the source material. That will introduce a slight blur. Don't do it.


Roger that! Thanks for the insight and explanation.


----------



## rbk123

Jstillen2 said:


> So.... I am still in my return to Best Buy window (I should have gone with a better return policy seller, lessen learned)
> 
> I keep switching from my new 5050ub ($2800ish) to my BenQ 2050 ($600ish). I'm comparing what a 2500-3000 upgrade gets me. My conclusion is....
> 
> Anyone have any ideas before I throw away $400 bucks on a Whoops purchase? On paper, the 5050 is perfect. I want to like this darn thing so much. Any help/advice is appreciated. :crying:


See if you can exchange it for the Benq 3550; you might just prefer the strengths of DLP. If it also doesn't impress you, then I'd hold off until the next round of new projectors. For both of them, I'd make sure and try the settings the hardcore guys here post and see if they make a worthy difference (they did for me).


----------



## Luminated67

rbk123 said:


> See if you can exchange it for the Benq 3550; you might just prefer the strengths of DLP. If it also doesn't impress you, then I'd hold off until the next round of new projectors. For both of them, I'd make sure and try the settings the hardcore guys here post and see if they make a worthy difference (they did for me).


All I can say is that the settings @Alaric has posted are very good and with subtle tweaks seem to work remarkably well if you have a similar bat cave and projecting on to a white screen. If you are properly happy with your purchase I would serious invest in a professional calibration, you might not instantly notice the improvements made though you do see it’s better but the more you watch the more you notice, stuff like the that brown in a grey wall you didn’t see before or the extra detail in shadows that you were sure wasn’t there before. 

When I got the Epson I didn’t have any 4K discs so I went on to YouTube and streamed 4K reference stuff there, well tonight I decided to check it out again since the calibration and my Lord is this thing impressive. I can’t imagine my OLED doing any better.... I mean seriously it’s that good. 

It’s only now after watching this that the filter comes into its own.


----------



## rbk123

Luminated67 said:


> All I can say is that the settings @Alaric has posted are very good and with subtle tweaks seem to work remarkably well


Right. Alaric's and others I would try first. I would not recommend professional calibration until you're absolutely sure you will keep the projector. Alaric & others will get you sufficiently close that professional won't improve that much beyond.


----------



## GCS

Former 5040ub owners that now have a 5050 why did you change?

What is so much better about the 5050 that makes it worth spending another $1000 on and giving up a free extra bulb as well (current deal for new 5040 is 2k + free bulb and mount actually)

Looking to move up to faux K but really torn on this decision (slightly used 5040 not refurbed is even less of course)

Looking for honest feedback good or bad


----------



## Alaric

JewDaddy said:


> Hey Guys!!! Just got off the phone with Leo at Epson. He called to follow up with me on my firmware issue. Looks like Epson loaded the wrong firmware on their website for the 5050 which is why it didn’t work. Lol
> 
> It’s been fixed so everyone that wants to update should be able to now. Good luck!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ahhh.... So what i guessed was the issue a week back when trying to help someone work through the update process, turned out to be the issue!

Been away for a few days then catching up on work for being away a few days (sometimes I wonder why I go away!) - Anything interesting happened? New reviews etc? 





Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

GCS said:


> Former 5040ub owners that now have a 5050 why did you change?
> 
> What is so much better about the 5050 that makes it worth spending another $1000 on and giving up a free extra bulb as well (current deal for new 5040 is 2k + free bulb and mount actually)
> 
> Looking to move up to faux K but really torn on this decision (slightly used 5040 not refurbed is even less of course)
> 
> Looking for honest feedback good or bad


5050 has more detail in close ups foregrounds and backgrounds. Seems to be added depth to the picture. The HDR is a 100% improvement. Much brighter overall picture when viewing HDR content while maintaining highlights in spectral details and much more pronounced shadow details. Greatly reduced black crush and deeper blacks in HDR and SDR.


----------



## Luminated67

Black Panther UHD

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5xjisxfw11jkfun/Photo 04-05-2019, 17 15 35.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7iqey1az7aedzxe/Photo 04-05-2019, 17 20 50.jpg?dl=0


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> Black Panther UHD
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5xjisxfw11jkfun/Photo 04-05-2019, 17 15 35.jpg?dl=0
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/7iqey1az7aedzxe/Photo 04-05-2019, 17 20 50.jpg?dl=0


Amazing pictures that really do the 5050 Justice if you don't mind me asking what kind of camera were you using


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Amazing pictures that really do the 5050 Justice if you don't mind me asking what kind of camera were you using


An iPhone X. I honestly didn’t expect a calibration could make such a difference as it has done with HDR content. Can’t imagine anything being much better than this.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

I’m watching The Lucy 4K Blu Ray and it’s blowing my mind using Alaric’s accurate setting for HDR but in Eco mode and the slider is set to 4

I finally see the giant OLED / Flat panel analogy. This projector is very capable but of course source dependent. I’m asking for a list of other high bit rate movies I need to try. I am seeing 90 MB’s for video, I know that Pacific Rim is high bit rate but don’t know if any others. Suggestions are welcomed. 










































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Even the regular 1080p of Lucy is incredible.










I took this image when I was using my Sony HW45es.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> Even the regular 1080p of Lucy is incredible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took this image when I was using my Sony HW45es.




I need some education on how to take a good screenshot. I seem to focus the camera wrong. If I focus on a face it dims the rest of the image. That picture is way better than mine. I can’t convey with my pictures what I am seeing and it’s frustrating 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I need some education on how to take a good screenshot. I seem to focus the camera wrong. If I focus on a face it dims the rest of the image. That picture is way better than mine. I can’t convey with my pictures what I am seeing and it’s frustrating
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


If using an iPhone when taking photo press and hold on the screen puts it into AE lock and then adjust the brightness to what you see on the screen.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> If using an iPhone when taking photo press and hold on the screen puts it into AE lock and then adjust the brightness to what you see on the screen.




Thank you sir. I will get some better screen shots to post. Also what image enhancement preset do you use in SDR /HDR


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Thank you sir. I will get some better screen shots to post. Also what image enhancement preset do you use in SDR /HDR
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Usually #3 on both unless it’s a grainy film and then I pick something less.


----------



## carmona

Luminated67 said:


> Even the regular 1080p of Lucy is incredible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took this image when I was using my Sony HW45es.


Do you have a blu ray source screen shot image when using the Epson 5050?

The detail on your LUCY blu ray image is really quite amazing on Morgan's face....every hair, wrinkle, freckle.....very 4k like, perhaps.

Since I suspect that many of us have accumulated substantial collections of standard blu ray movies, would like to know how the Epson 5050 performs with that material....detail, color, "pop"....etc.

Thanks.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

carmona said:


> Do you have a blu ray source screen shot image when using the Epson 5050?
> 
> 
> 
> The detail on your LUCY blu ray image is really quite amazing on Morgan's face....every hair, wrinkle, freckle.....very 4k like, perhaps.
> 
> 
> 
> Since I suspect that many of us have accumulated substantial collections of standard blu ray movies, would like to know how the Epson 5050 performs with that material....detail, color, "pop"....etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.




The Epson is fantasy on Blu-ray’s. My screen shots can not compare as I did not now how to properly take them but I watched the Dark Knight the other day and was blown away 



















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Here are some from Glass










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## carmona

Thanks! Nice to know this unit performs exceptionally well in the standard blu ray format. Very helpful information.


----------



## Luminated67

carmona said:


> Do you have a blu ray source screen shot image when using the Epson 5050?
> 
> The detail on your LUCY blu ray image is really quite amazing on Morgan's face....every hair, wrinkle, freckle.....very 4k like, perhaps.
> 
> Since I suspect that many of us have accumulated substantial collections of standard blu ray movies, would like to know how the Epson 5050 performs with that material....detail, color, "pop"....etc.
> 
> Thanks.


Lucy is one of those regular Blurays that IMO match the quality of a UHD one. I will try and do one for you but I actually don’t think it will be any better, in my honest opinion the Sony HW45es is right up there with the very best 1080p projectors, also colours on the Sony are spectacular.


----------



## carmona

Don't really need a screen shot. Knowing that Blu-rays look exceptional on the 5050 is good enough. Trust the reliable "in person" visual assessments of forum members.


----------



## GCS

5050 owners would the image quality be a worthy jump up from my current Epson HC3000 (basically the same as the 3600) ignore 4k content for now (i.e. 4k discs and streaming etc).

FYI I do not game at all other than a little XBOX 360 for the family like rock band, just dance etc.

Movies, Sports (big events - world cup, super bowl etc), regular TV.

Room is light controlled but we do leave lights on (about 15 feet away from screen) a lot of the time and we sit about 15 feet back from a 130" screen.

TIA


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



GCS said:


> 5050 owners would the image quality be a worthy jump up from my current Epson HC3000 (basically the same as the 3600) ignore 4k content for now (i.e. 4k discs and streaming etc).
> 
> 
> 
> FYI I do not game at all other than a little XBOX 360 for the family like rock band, just dance etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Movies, Sports (big events - world cup, super bowl etc), regular TV.
> 
> 
> 
> Room is light controlled but we do leave lights on (about 15 feet away from screen) a lot of the time and we sit about 15 feet back from a 130" screen.
> 
> 
> 
> TIA




Yes. Huge difference. Read the whole thread. I came from a 3700. Night and day with blacks P3 color is awesome. Having the motorized lens is nice and the ability to change to different screens. It is large that’s the only issue, I had to buy a more robust mount. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

carmona said:


> Don't really need a screen shot. Knowing that Blu-rays look exceptional on the 5050 is good enough. Trust the reliable "in person" visual assessments of forum members.


I’d far rather show you the differences and why I rate the Sony quite special as a 1080P PJ and at the same time why I think so highly of the Epson which in my opinion matches the Sony but then offers so much more with 4K, auto Lens and Lens memories, true HDR capabilities and even better contrast though only slight.

Top image is the Sony HW45es which we both rate exceptional

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b9ht7b8omevi4wj/Photo 06-05-2019, 11 39 11.png?dl=0

The second is the Epson

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ito76v6br85ppoe/Photo 06-05-2019, 11 39 02.png?dl=0

The other factor that has changed apart from the projectors is different Bluray players, the Sony image was with the Sony X700 and the Epson with the Panasonic 420. Personally I think the Sony is better with 1080p material where as the Panasonic is better with 4K.


----------



## carmona

Thanks so much for the two image comparisons which you provided. Both look exceptional for 1080p material.

My blu ray player is an OPPO 203. Will probably be getting the Epson 5050 in the future. Knowing that the 5050 handles standard blu ray exceptionally well is a big plus as I have a large blu ray collection. 

If any forum members have the OPPO 203 / EPSON 5050 combo up and running, would enjoy hearing about the blu ray and, of course, 4k disc images that result.


----------



## asolor78

picking my 5050 tomorrow... question why is there such a difference in contrast from the 9400 to the 5050 I noticed that this one's a million-to-one but the UK version is 1.2 million... is there a reason why it's been down to 1 million in the u.s.?and why the UK version has the advantage?... Also I'm actually coming from an Epson 5010...if any current owners out there have had a 5010 ..i hope this will be a worthy buy


----------



## skylarlove1999

asolor78 said:


> picking my 5050 tomorrow... question why is there such a difference in contrast from the 9400 to the 5050 I noticed that this one's a million-to-one but the UK version is 1.2 million... is there a reason why it's been down to 1 million in the u.s.?and why the UK version has the advantage?... Also I'm actually coming from an Epson 5010...if any current owners out there have had a 5010 ..i hope this will be a worthy buy


That's a great question. I will ask Epson product support. I have a contact. I will be attending the Epson projector event for AVS Forum in NYC on Tuesday. Epson is flying in one of their leading projector engineers from Japan. I hope to be able to ask that question as well. My guess is that in real world contrast measurements bother the 5050 and the 9400 measure the same but in the US where there is a little more litigious nature they went with the more conservative contrast number. IMHO.


----------



## nefrina

does it bother anyone else how the entire word "the" is capitalized for no reason in the title of this thread? seems very ostentatious.

*edit* - i believe it can only be changed by either the thread creator @scottyroo, or a moderator.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

skylarlove1999 said:


> That's a great question. I will ask Epson product support. I have a contact. I will be attending the Epson projector event for AVS Forum in NYC on Tuesday. Epson is flying in one of their leading projector engineers from Japan. I hope to be able to ask that question as well. My guess is that in real world contrast measurements bother the 5050 and the 9400 measure the same but in the US where there is a little more litigious nature they went with the more conservative contrast number. IMHO.


According to Projector Central editor Rob Sabin, Epson took some extra time to tweak the 5050UB for the North American release. It was still a work in progress when he saw it under NDA at CES in January and Sabin was told at the time that the 5050UB would also have a 1,200,000:1 dynamic contrast, but at release all the materials are now saying 1,000,000:1. He surmises that improvements didn't pan out consistently after the final tuning and Epson went with the more conservative spec for the North American model. Whether the dynamic contrast is rated as 1.2 million to 1 or 1 million to one, it's not a significant difference on the screen and may not even be noticeable at all.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MidnightWatcher said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's a great question. I will ask Epson product support. I have a contact. I will be attending the Epson projector event for AVS Forum in NYC on Tuesday. Epson is flying in one of their leading projector engineers from Japan. I hope to be able to ask that question as well. My guess is that in real world contrast measurements bother the 5050 and the 9400 measure the same but in the US where there is a little more litigious nature they went with the more conservative contrast number. IMHO.
> 
> 
> 
> According to Projector Central editor Rob Sabin, Epson took some extra time to tweak the 5050UB for the North American release. It was still a work in progress when he saw it under NDA at CES in January and Sabin was told at the time that the 5050UB would also have a 1,200,000:1 dynamic contrast, but at release all the materials are now saying 1,000,000:1. He surmises that improvements didn't pan out consistently after the final tuning and Epson went with the more conservative spec for the North American model. Whether the dynamic contrast is rated as 1.2 million to 1 or 1 million to one, it's not a significant difference on the screen and may not even be noticeable at all.
Click to expand...

Thank you MidnightWatcher. I saw Rob's comments in the comments section on the projector release he put out early April. It is strange the 6050UB still shows the 1,200,000:1 contrast ratio . Will shall see what the release for the 6050 says on Tuesday. Either way the 5050 still gives off a great picture and I look forward to seeing the 6050 in person on Tuesday.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you MidnightWatcher. I saw Rob's comments in the comments section on the projector release he put out early April. It is strange the 6050UB still shows the 1,200,000:1 contrast ratio . Will shall see what the release for the 6050 says on Tuesday. Either way the 5050 still gives off a great picture and I look forward to seeing the 6050 in person on Tuesday.


Is the TW9400 actually the 6050UB model instead, it is possible. Also could the voltage difference between Europe (240v) and the US (110v) have any affect on the spec difference?


----------



## Gellert1

I have had the 5050ub installed in my home for a week now. My wife and I absolutely love it. However, I do have one question for all the other owners.
Lens memory!

The lens memory is an awesome feature and was one of the main reasons I purchased it. I also bought a 150" 2.35:1 alr custom screen to pair it with, (for its cinescope capabilities).

My question is... this Epson gets very, very close to the saved lens memory presents. However, it will always miss it either side to side, or up and down. I'm talking, maybe by 1" or less. 

I know there was a thread on the 5040ub somewhere where it had the same problem, keeping the memory settings from drifting from the original saved position. Has anyone figured out the formula for saving the memory "slightly off position" so when you load that preset, it will load perfectly each time?

In other words, you'd find the perfect position, then purposely go off-position just a hair, save it to memory, then having the project load it perfectly, compensating for its motor's error.


----------



## Alaric

Gellert said:


> I have had the 5050ub installed in my home for a week now. My wife and I absolutely love it. However, I do have one question for all the other owners.
> 
> Lens memory!
> 
> 
> 
> The lens memory is an awesome feature and was one of the main reasons I purchased it. I also bought a 150" 2.35:1 alr custom screen to pair it with, (for its cinescope capabilities).
> 
> 
> 
> My question is... this Epson gets very, very close to the saved lens memory presents. However, it will always miss it either side to side, or up and down. I'm talking, maybe by 1" or less.
> 
> 
> 
> I know there was a thread on the 5040ub somewhere where it had the same problem, keeping the memory settings from drifting from the original saved position. Has anyone figured out the formula for saving the memory "slightly off position" so when you load that preset, it will load perfectly each time?
> 
> 
> 
> In other words, you'd find the perfect position, then purposely go off-position just a hair, save it to memory, then having the project load it perfectly, compensating for its motor's error.


There's a trick for this, and it is in the set up of the memory. Small back adjustments don't work, so gently go forwards to the point you want and then save the position. If you need to go back, do a very large adjustment and then slowly creep forwards.
It a well known Epson thing! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## dimi123

Luminated67 said:


> Is the TW9400 actually the 6050UB model instead, it is possible.


That is correct. There is no equivalent to the 5040/5050 model in Europe, only to the 6040/6050. The 9300/9400 has anamorphic scaling capability, just like the 6040/6050. The 5040/5050 has not.


----------



## skylarlove1999

serith said:


> does it bother anyone else how the entire word "the" is capitalized for no reason in the title of this thread? seems very ostentatious.
> 
> *edit* - i believe it can only be changed by either the thread creator @scottyroo, or a moderator.


I am not bothered by it. I am bothered that the 6050 hasn't been released yet. I find it ironic that the person bothered by capital letters doesn't realize that using ostentatious in this situation is probably being ostentatious. All said in good fun. No offense meant.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dimi123 said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the TW9400 actually the 6050UB model instead, it is possible.
> 
> 
> 
> That is correct. There is no equivalent to the 5040/5050 model in Europe, only to the 6040/6050. The 9300/9400 has anamorphic scaling capability, just like the 6040/6050. The 5040/5050 has not.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the information. I have no reason to doubt its authenticity. It does bring up more questions for me as to if this is actually the 9400 model that will be branded as the 6050 in the United States why did it take so long for it to come to Market.


----------



## ckronengold

carmona said:


> Thanks so much for the two image comparisons which you provided. Both look exceptional for 1080p material.
> 
> My blu ray player is an OPPO 203. Will probably be getting the Epson 5050 in the future. Knowing that the 5050 handles standard blu ray exceptionally well is a big plus as I have a large blu ray collection.
> 
> If any forum members have the OPPO 203 / EPSON 5050 combo up and running, would enjoy hearing about the blu ray and, of course, 4k disc images that result.


are you using the Oppo to upscale the bluray before sending it to the projector?


----------



## ckronengold

Alaric said:


> There's a trick for this, and it is in the set up of the memory. Small back adjustments don't work, so gently go forwards to the point you want and then save the position. If you need to go back, do a very large adjustment and then slowly creep forwards.
> It a well known Epson thing!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


So do you intentionally leave your memory settings "short" so when you change between 2.35:1 and 16:9 you still need to tap it forward one or two?


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> carmona said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so much for the two image comparisons which you provided. Both look exceptional for 1080p material.
> 
> My blu ray player is an OPPO 203. Will probably be getting the Epson 5050 in the future. Knowing that the 5050 handles standard blu ray exceptionally well is a big plus as I have a large blu ray collection.
> 
> If any forum members have the OPPO 203 / EPSON 5050 combo up and running, would enjoy hearing about the blu ray and, of course, 4k disc images that result.
> 
> 
> 
> are you using the Oppo to upscale the bluray before sending it to the projector?
Click to expand...

I had the Oppo 203 and then tested out the Panansonic ub820 with my 5050. I found the Panasonic ub820 upscaling of blurays to be superior to the Oppo 203. Same with HDR and 4K. Broader more dynamic and more detailed soundstage with the 820. I sold my Oppo 203 on US Audio Mart for $850. And I loved Oppo having owned the 93,103 and then 203. I allow the Panasonic ub820 to do the upscaling. Best buy has 30 day return period. You should at least do your own comparison.


----------



## Mabunga

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am not bothered by it. I am bothered that the 6050 hasn't been released yet. I find it ironic that the person bothered by capital letters doesn't realize that using ostentatious in this situation is probably being ostentatious. All said in good fun. No offense meant.


https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-6050UB.htm


----------



## dimi123

Mabunga said:


> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-6050UB.htm





> The Pro Cinema 6050UB fully supports 4K HDR at 60 Hz with up to 4:4:4 (uncompressed) chroma subsampling at 8 bits, or 4:2:2 with 10- or 12-bit processing.''


That's disappointing, if true.

P.S.: I've just realized that 4K HDR 60Hz at 12-bit 4:4:4 is above 18Gbps. Until now I was under the impression that the JVC's could do it. Turns out that 4K HDR 60Hz at 12-bit 4:2:2 = 17.82Gbps. Guess I'll have to wait till HDMI 2.1 comes along.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Mabunga said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am not bothered by it. I am bothered that the 6050 hasn't been released yet. I find it ironic that the person bothered by capital letters doesn't realize that using ostentatious in this situation is probably being ostentatious. All said in good fun. No offense meant.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-6050UB.htm
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for sharing. Epson says I should have mine on Wednesday coming directly from them. Can't wait!!!


----------



## carmona

ckronengold said:


> are you using the Oppo to upscale the bluray before sending it to the projector?


Yes, will likely be sending the upscaled bluray image from the OPPO direct to the projector.


----------



## carmona

skylarlove1999 said:


> I had the Oppo 203 and then tested out the Panansonic ub820 with my 5050. I found the Panasonic ub820 upscaling of blurays to be superior to the Oppo 203. Same with HDR and 4K. Broader more dynamic and more detailed soundstage with the 820. I sold my Oppo 203 on US Audio Mart for $850. And I loved Oppo having owned the 93,103 and then 203. I allow the Panasonic ub820 to do the upscaling. Best buy has 30 day return period. You should at least do your own comparison.


Thanks for your reply and relating your experience.


----------



## Luminated67

Here’s my take on upscaling and Bluray Player vs Projector. I rate the Sony X700 better than Panasonic 420 with both 1080P and upscaling this 1080P, also rate the Epson better at upscaling than the Panasonic but for 4K UHD discs the Panasonic and it’s HDR optimiser is superior to the Sony.


----------



## impetigo

How many people here with the 5050 upgraded from a 5040? I'm curious how much improvement (mostly interested in increased brightness/performance of 3D and contrast/black levels for non-3D material) there is since the 5050 seems like it would be an easy swap with the 5040. Did the 5050 *lose* any features that the 5040 had? And is it actually the same body? Specifically, are the feet in the same spots at the 5040 so that I could swap it out with my 5040 in my ceiling mount that attaches via the feet?


----------



## skylarlove1999

impetigo said:


> How many people here with the 5050 upgraded from a 5040? I'm curious how much improvement (mostly interested in increased brightness/performance of 3D and contrast/black levels for non-3D material) there is since the 5050 seems like it would be an easy swap with the 5040. Did the 5050 *lose* any features that the 5040 had? And is it actually the same body? Specifically, are the feet in the same spots at the 5040 so that I could swap it out with my 5040 in my ceiling mount that attaches via the feet?


Same exact chassis. Same mount will absolutely work. I think the image is brighter more detailed and gives greater depth. HDR gives more spectral highlights and more shadow detail. Better HDR out of the box than 18 months of custom gamma curves for the 5040. Can't wait for Jeff Meier to calibrate my 5050. He also calibrated my 5040.


----------



## impetigo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Same exact chassis. Same mount will absolutely work. I think the image is brighter more detailed and gives greater depth. HDR gives more spectral highlights and more shadow detail. Better HDR out of the box than 18 months of custom gamma curves for the 5040. Can't wait for Jeff Meier to calibrate my 5050. He also calibrated my 5040.


Thanks so much for the info! It is tempting to upgrade, especially if I can get a decent price for my 5040. Only thing I don't like is the cheesy color accents (around the lens and next to it), which look worse now in gold than silver in the 5040. I only care because it's mounted on a low section on my ceiling so is quite visible. 

Do the lens shifting, zooming, focusing, and memory work the same as the 5040?


----------



## skylarlove1999

EPSON 6050 ANNOUNCEMENT 

https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...vanced-3-Chip-Design-and-HDR10/p/V11H928020MB

So the 6050 has officially been announced. Some differences from the 5050:

5050 has 1,000,000 to 1 contrast 
6050 has 1,200,000 to 1 contrast

6050 and 5050 both have second generation HDR processor and pixel shift processor. The 6050 comes with a free lamp and mount and adds a 3rd year of warranty. MSRP IS $3,999 and is typically only sold through installers not directly to consumers.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

The 5050 also has the second generation HDR processor and pixel shift processor, and I don't think there is any real-world difference in the contrast ratio between the two. My thinking is that it's a marketing strategy to give the 5050 a more conservative 1,000,000:1 contrast ratio vs the 1,200,000:1 ratio for the 6050 in an effort to distinguish both apart, moreso than simply the exterior color, mount, extra lamp and longer warranty for the 6050.


----------



## Viche

MidnightWatcher said:


> The 5050 also has the second generation HDR processor and pixel shift processor, and I don't think there is any real-world difference in the contrast ratio between the two. My thinking is that it's a marketing strategy to give the 5050 a more conservative 1,000,000:1 contrast ratio vs the 1,200,000:1 ratio for the 6050 in an effort to distinguish both apart, moreso than simply the exterior color, mount, extra lamp and longer warranty for the 6050.



I sure hope so. I'm tired of these annoying barriers to me entering the projector world. First they gimp the hdmi chipset last gen. Then they save the NEW processor for the pricey model. That would stink and cause me to pause again.


----------



## dgeorgat

What is the best calibration disc to calibrate the 5050? I will be using a Panasonic 820 4k player.

Thanks,
Dennis


----------



## cubsfan

dgeorgat said:


> What is the best calibration disc to calibrate the 5050? I will be using a Panasonic 820 4k player.
> 
> Thanks,
> Dennis



you should probably dig around the calibration forum here, for some insight.


----------



## dgeorgat

cubsfan said:


> you should probably dig around the calibration forum here, for some insight.


Thanks.....didn't know it existed.


----------



## scottyroo

Disney in their supreme benevolence has released their copyright claim on my Epson / BenQ video.  Its probably not at comprehensive as it could be but spoiler alert is that these are both amazing projectors.


----------



## impetigo

Anyone who had the 5040 and now the 5050 know if all the motorized lens functions (focus, shift, zoom) and memory settings are the same in the new model? Just curious if the 5050 lost any features at all or if it's basically a 5040 with enhanced brightness, contrast, and HDR. 



Viche said:


> I sure hope so. I'm tired of these annoying barriers to me entering the projector world. First they gimp the hdmi chipset last gen. Then they save the NEW processor for the pricey model. That would stink and cause me to pause again.


I wouldn't let the marketing/specs game keep you from joining the projector party. Maybe they make a significant difference and maybe not. But there is no better HT experience than watching it big at home. Not HDR, not perfect blacks, not a gazillion colors, yada yada yada. If you have the space to at least go 120" and have decent light control you should get a PJ. Even an average, mid-level PJ will be way better than watching movies on a TV. I got my first PJ twelve years ago with a cheap ($1100) Sony PJ in my studio with high ceilings when I was in school and the 140" image was just awesome. In my house now I can only go 110" but it's still pretty good.


----------



## Liquid$team

Can the BenQ HT5550 by mounted upright on a high shelf behind the seating position like in this photo?


----------



## alkit

*Epson 5050UB whining noise*

Hi,

I just bought a brand new Epson 5050UB (EH-TW9400 from where I'm from).

After installing it and powering on all my equipment, I get the following high pitched whine from it (you can hear the fans, but those sound normal and are to be expected - the whine, as it is high pitched is the annoying sound).

Can anyone else with a 5050UB confirm if this is normal or if I got one with an issue and need to send it back?

Sound file: https://www.geewiz.co.za/temp/sound1.wav

Thanks in advance


----------



## Viche

alkit said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just bought a brand new Epson 5050UB (EH-TW9400 from where I'm from).
> 
> After installing it and powering on all my equipment, I get the following high pitched whine from it (you can hear the fans, but those sound normal and are to be expected - the whine, as it is high pitched is the annoying sound).
> 
> Can anyone else with a 5050UB confirm if this is normal or if I got one with an issue and need to send it back?
> 
> Sound file: https://www.geewiz.co.za/temp/sound1.wav
> 
> Thanks in advance



Does it happen both with and without 4k up scaling turned on? Some say that they can hear those panels wobulating.


----------



## alkit

Viche said:


> alkit said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just bought a brand new Epson 5050UB (EH-TW9400 from where I'm from).
> 
> After installing it and powering on all my equipment, I get the following high pitched whine from it (you can hear the fans, but those sound normal and are to be expected - the whine, as it is high pitched is the annoying sound).
> 
> Can anyone else with a 5050UB confirm if this is normal or if I got one with an issue and need to send it back?
> 
> Sound file: https://www.geewiz.co.za/temp/sound1.wav
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does it happen both with and without 4k up scaling turned on? Some say that they can hear those panels wobulating.
Click to expand...

Nope, I actually took that clip when it was showing "hdmi 1 - no input" on the screen


----------



## skylarlove1999

alkit said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just bought a brand new Epson 5050UB (EH-TW9400 from where I'm from).
> 
> After installing it and powering on all my equipment, I get the following high pitched whine from it (you can hear the fans, but those sound normal and are to be expected - the whine, as it is high pitched is the annoying sound).
> 
> Can anyone else with a 5050UB confirm if this is normal or if I got one with an issue and need to send it back?
> 
> Sound file: https://www.geewiz.co.za/temp/sound1.wav
> 
> Thanks in advance


Never heard that noise on my 5050ub. Shouldn't have that sound. I would return immediately.


----------



## kaydee6

alkit said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just bought a brand new Epson 5050UB (EH-TW9400 from where I'm from).
> 
> After installing it and powering on all my equipment, I get the following high pitched whine from it (you can hear the fans, but those sound normal and are to be expected - the whine, as it is high pitched is the annoying sound).
> 
> Can anyone else with a 5050UB confirm if this is normal or if I got one with an issue and need to send it back?
> 
> Sound file: https://www.geewiz.co.za/temp/sound1.wav
> 
> Thanks in advance


I have the 5040ub and its not exactly quiet. It has the slight 4Ke whine on top of the fan noise. The sound file you posted seems like a normal fan noise with a slight whine which seems normal for all fans.


----------



## Nexgen76

scottyroo said:


> Disney in their supreme benevolence has released their copyright claim on my Epson / BenQ video.  Its probably not at comprehensive as it could be but spoiler alert is that these are both amazing projectors.
> 
> https://youtu.be/pfreFbP8IoE



Thanks for the review but please get a better camera.


----------



## Luminated67

scottyroo said:


> Disney in their supreme benevolence has released their copyright claim on my Epson / BenQ video.  Its probably not at comprehensive as it could be but spoiler alert is that these are both amazing projectors.
> 
> https://youtu.be/pfreFbP8IoE


I suppose some do just use their projectors with out-of-the-box settings but I would reckon that's very few to be honest unless the room isn't ideal to begin with and then there's no real point trying to eek out their best. 

The BenQ's HDR auto tonal mapping isn't a big deal when you consider Panasonic include this in their 4K Bluray players, I've watched a few UHD HDR discs now and each look amazed, so far I haven't had to tweak anything... Cinema mode & HDR slider 4.

There's no denying that the BenQ with it's 4 x eshift will put up a sharper image but we will continue to disagree that from anything other than way too close will you see the pixel effect, I've even took photos to prove this.


----------



## scottyroo

Luminated67 said:


> I suppose some do just use their projectors with out-of-the-box settings but I would reckon that's very few to be honest unless the room isn't ideal to begin with and then there's no real point trying to eek out their best.
> 
> 
> 
> The HDR auto tonal mapping isn't a big deal when you consider Panasonic include this in their 4K Bluray players, I've watched a few UHD HDR discs now and each look amazed, so far I haven't had to tweak anything... Cinema mode & HDR slider 4.
> 
> 
> 
> There's no denying that the BenQ with it's 4 x eshift will put up a sharper image but we will continue to disagree that from anything other than way too close will you see the pixel effect, I've even took photos to prove this.




Really good feedback. Thanks! I’ll get better at these


----------



## Viche

scottyroo said:


> Really good feedback. Thanks! I’ll get better at these



Thanks for the video. Would love to see each projector with their best settings with SDR and HDR content, and also a camera that can show the black level differences. That seems to be the biggest selling point of the Epson, but the blacks just look black in all of your shots.


Also, what are the chances of Rainbows with the BenQ?


----------



## rustolemite

Really quick dumb question, got my 5050 today but will Friday before I can install it, is it okay to leave the box sitting on it's side till I install it?
Like I said dumb.

Thanks


----------



## Luminated67

rustolemite said:


> Really quick dumb question, got my 5050 today but will Friday before I can install it, is it okay to leave the box sitting on it's side till I install it?
> Like I said dumb.
> 
> Thanks


Not sure if it will cause any damage but since I’ve never seem an projector stored like that I would lay it flat just in case.


----------



## GCS

Posted in the BenQ thread also but might as well give you 5050 guys a chance to convince me too (only fair, lol)

Good grief wish I hadn't watched that video!

I thought I was all set and ready to save and buy the Epson 5050 but man this video has me thinking save the $500 and get the 5550. This is much tougher than I would have thought.

So here is my question ...

Screen size - 132"

Room - light controlled but we often at least 1 row of lights on at all times except for dedicated movie watching (no lights) - there is no outdoor light during the day other than a small window on an exterior door but that does not impact the screen at all

Seating - we sit about 15-16 feet from the screen (row 1) second row is further back at about 22 feet or so


We watch a fair bit of regular TV including sports (super bowl, world cup, NBA, NFL) - sometimes during the day and sometimes at night. 
We watch plenty of movies as well - lights off for this
We game very little (some XBOX 360)
We do stream from Amazon and Netflix a fair bit


All that being said which direction is best. Looking at the video I like the sharp image of the BenQ but like the pop of the colors from the Epson. From what I am reading/seeing/hearing the color from the Epson is not necessarily accurate/true but the BenQ is accurate.

I also want really good out of the box set up and I don't want to spend forever fiddling with settings etc - for this it seems the BenQ is the clear winner. Calibration is of course possible but again I am not one that has time or inclination so constantly fiddle with my settings. I want to enjoy what I have and stop tinkering (yes I know get out of the hobby if that's how I feel)

DLP vs LCD - DLP shouldn't be an issue for us as we were DLP for many years until I went to an Epson 3000 about 3-4 years ago I think.

Downside is I would have to get all new glasses for 3D as BenQ is different from Epson ... correct?

FYI we have never used the brightest lamp setting on our projector for any movie or any sports party we have had (i.e. super bowl etc)

Anyway I appreciate the video greatly just makes things super difficult though. TIA for any insight anyone cares to share. My guess is in this thread I will get most people saying go with the 5550 if I posted in the 5050 thread I am sure I would get the go with the 5050.

Tough call all around IMHO

FYI if it matters I will be getting a Panasonic UB820 to feed either projector


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

GCS said:


> Posted in the BenQ thread also but might as well give you 5050 guys a chance to convince me too (only fair, lol)
> 
> 
> 
> Good grief wish I hadn't watched that video!
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I was all set and ready to save and buy the Epson 5050 but man this video has me thinking save the $500 and get the 5550. This is much tougher than I would have thought.
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my question ...
> 
> 
> 
> Screen size - 132"
> 
> 
> 
> Room - light controlled but we often at least 1 row of lights on at all times except for dedicated movie watching (no lights) - there is no outdoor light during the day other than a small window on an exterior door but that does not impact the screen at all
> 
> 
> 
> Seating - we sit about 15-16 feet from the screen (row 1) second row is further back at about 22 feet or so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We watch a fair bit of regular TV including sports (super bowl, world cup, NBA, NFL) - sometimes during the day and sometimes at night.
> 
> We watch plenty of movies as well - lights off for this
> 
> We game very little (some XBOX 360)
> 
> We do stream from Amazon and Netflix a fair bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All that being said which direction is best. Looking at the video I like the sharp image of the BenQ but like the pop of the colors from the Epson. From what I am reading/seeing/hearing the color from the Epson is not necessarily accurate/true but the BenQ is accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> I also want really good out of the box set up and I don't want to spend forever fiddling with settings etc - for this it seems the BenQ is the clear winner. Calibration is of course possible but again I am not one that has time or inclination so constantly fiddle with my settings. I want to enjoy what I have and stop tinkering (yes I know get out of the hobby if that's how I feel)
> 
> 
> 
> DLP vs LCD - DLP shouldn't be an issue for us as we were DLP for many years until I went to an Epson 3000 about 3-4 years ago I think.
> 
> 
> 
> Downside is I would have to get all new glasses for 3D as BenQ is different from Epson ... correct?
> 
> 
> 
> FYI we have never used the brightest lamp setting on our projector for any movie or any sports party we have had (i.e. super bowl etc)
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway I appreciate the video greatly just makes things super difficult though. TIA for any insight anyone cares to share. My guess is in this thread I will get most people saying go with the 5550 if I posted in the 5050 thread I am sure I would get the go with the 5050.
> 
> 
> 
> Tough call all around IMHO
> 
> 
> 
> FYI if it matters I will be getting a Panasonic UB820 to feed either projector




Of course it’s not accurate when you compare a product in the wrong picture mode. The Epson is brilliant in the correct settings with greater contrast and brightness and achieves 100% of the P3 color spectrum. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MidnightWatcher

If you don't care about blacks and contrast that makes the image pop, go for the BenQ. If you want the overall best looking picture quality for your screen size and seating distance in your light-controlled room, definitely get the Epson.


----------



## Alaric

scottyroo said:


> Disney in their supreme benevolence has released their copyright claim on my Epson / BenQ video.  Its probably not at comprehensive as it could be but spoiler alert is that these are both amazing projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/pfreFbP8IoE


Sorry, but it comes off heavily biased towards the Benq almost to the point that it feels like a heavy sales pitch, glossing over any positives of the Epson and finely detailing any benifits of Benq. 
I lasted about half way as after the third iteration of trying to prove how sharp it is just got boring and frustrating and i gave up.

Personally I much preferred the "over saturated" look of the Epson, the Benq looking oddly yellow in places.

I'd much prefer both calibrated as why have a few thousands worth of projector and just use out of the box setting seems silly to me, particularly if you are going to the effort of researching what projector gives the best image, hints that you care about the image in the first place or why research the best?



Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Alaric said:


> Sorry, but it comes off heavily biased towards the Benq almost to the point that it feels like a heavy sales pitch, glossing over any positives of the Epson and finely detailing any benifits of Benq.
> I lasted about half way as after the third iteration of trying to prove how sharp it is just got boring and frustrating and i gave up.
> 
> Personally I much preferred the "over saturated" look of the Epson, the Benq looking oddly yellow in places.
> 
> I'd much prefer both calibrated as why have a few thousands worth of projector and just use out of the box setting seems silly to me, particularly if you are going to the effort of researching what projector gives the best image, hints that you care about the image in the first place or why research the best?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk




Your settings for the win ! I will say in the comments section he has admitted that using the natural mode may was a mistake and that using your settings make it fantastic. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## scottyroo

Alaric said:


> Sorry, but it comes off heavily biased towards the Benq almost to the point that it feels like a heavy sales pitch, glossing over any positives of the Epson and finely detailing any benifits of Benq.
> I lasted about half way as after the third iteration of trying to prove how sharp it is just got boring and frustrating and i gave up.
> 
> Personally I much preferred the "over saturated" look of the Epson, the Benq looking oddly yellow in places.
> 
> I'd much prefer both calibrated as why have a few thousands worth of projector and just use out of the box setting seems silly to me, particularly if you are going to the effort of researching what projector gives the best image, hints that you care about the image in the first place or why research the best?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Appreciate the feedback. I know you are a fan of the Epson. I am too! 

I tried my best to take a balanced and objective approach to each for an out of the box comparison. sadly, even though people should get them calibrated, most don't.

As far as the "sales pitch" goes, I feel that's a bit harsh.However, I'll take the feedback and make note of it. I feel like I made sure to call out each for their strengths. I mentioned over and over and over again about how the input lag, brightness, and pop is better on the Epson. I also mentioned the P3 coverage can go above and beyond 100% on the Epson. I much prefer the Epson to the BenQ when it comes to sports and gaming. When it comes to movies, I prefer the HT5550. That's the bottom line and why I think owners in both camps will be happy. Did I holistically recommend the BenQ over the Epson? I did not. Perhaps I came across this way because to be honest I had low expectations from the HT5550 and is exceeded them greatly. I had very high expectations of the 5050UB and it mostly met them but I am still annoyed that I notice the drop in sharpness.

This is one man's opinion FWIW so I tried to be as objective as possible. If you have a W5700 and do your own side by side I'd love to get your thoughts and impressions. 

With all that said, I'll take the feedback gladly and be sure to do calibrated comparisons in the future. I agree that and not mentioning placement flexibility was an omissionI should have addressed...and use a better camera on a tripod. 

Thanks again! And Also thanks for your contributions to the community. I have created macros on my harmony remote to quickly change to your settings in the Epson memory.


----------



## GCS

Thanks for the posts everyone.

Now do I go with the 5050 for 3k or get a slightly used 5040 for 1/2 that and pay for a calibration and still save around $1000 vs the 5050.

Too many choices, too little time!


----------



## DunMunro

According to Projectorreviews:

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...50ub-has-arrived-turns-out-it-is-even-better/

The HC6050 has superior optics over the HC5050, and is not a complete clone of it, as per the HC5040/6040.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

GCS said:


> Thanks for the posts everyone.
> 
> 
> 
> Now do I go with the 5050 for 3k or get a slightly used 5040 for 1/2 that and pay for a calibration and still save around $1000 vs the 5050.
> 
> 
> 
> Too many choices, too little time!




Some have posted that the HDR on the new set is far superior and you must do custom curves and lots of tweaking to get a good image. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GCS

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Some have posted that the HDR on the new set is far superior and you must do custom curves and lots of tweaking to get a good image.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I assume you mean custom curves etc on the old 5040, correct?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

GCS said:


> I assume you mean custom curves etc on the old 5040, correct?




Correct my apologies. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

GCS said:


> Thanks for the posts everyone.
> 
> Now do I go with the 5050 for 3k or get a slightly used 5040 for 1/2 that and pay for a calibration and still save around $1000 vs the 5050.
> 
> Too many choices, too little time!


I’m not going to recommend one over the other, go demo both and pick the one that appeals to you. 

As for picking 5040 over the 5050, if you really do intend to watch mostly 4K HDR material the 5050 is the way to go, no amount of calibration will make the 5040 make it look at good.

The debate on sharpness is one that will go on long enough, the BenQ is sharper no doubt about it but for watching movies from the distance you have stated you will not notice any difference. As for colour accuracy I’m not sure the right mode was chose or the correct HDR slider setting selected because I’ve watched this very video used in the demo and I don’t see the same saturated colours, on my it looks extremely believable.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

DunMunro said:


> According to Projectorreviews:
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...50ub-has-arrived-turns-out-it-is-even-better/
> 
> The HC6050 has superior optics over the HC5050, and is not a complete clone of it, as per the HC5040/6040.


"Superior" seems inflated. Slightly better is probably the best description. I bet we'd have to look pretty close to spot any PQ differences.


----------



## Dave in Green

DunMunro said:


> According to Projectorreviews:
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...50ub-has-arrived-turns-out-it-is-even-better/
> 
> The HC6050 has superior optics over the HC5050, and is not a complete clone of it, as per the HC5040/6040.


To be more exact, the new Epson 4000/5000/6000 series all use exactly the same lens. Epson is going to start culling out the lenses that measure best at the end of the lens assembly line and use those in the 6000 series. Depending on the level of quality control and consistency on the lens assembly line the difference between the best and worst lenses produced may be virtually undetectable to the human eye when viewing content.


----------



## groggrog

scottyroo said:


> Thanks again! And Also thanks for your contributions to the community. I have created macros on my harmony remote to quickly change to your settings in the Epson memory.


Scottyroo - would love to know more about your Harmony macros for the 5050UB. Care to share?


----------



## Spankey

Alaric said:


> Sorry, but it comes off heavily biased towards the Benq almost to the point that it feels like a heavy sales pitch, glossing over any positives of the Epson and finely detailing any benifits of Benq.
> I lasted about half way as after the third iteration of trying to prove how sharp it is just got boring and frustrating and i gave up.
> 
> Personally I much preferred the "over saturated" look of the Epson, the Benq looking oddly yellow in places.
> 
> I'd much prefer both calibrated as why have a few thousands worth of projector and just use out of the box setting seems silly to me, particularly if you are going to the effort of researching what projector gives the best image, hints that you care about the image in the first place or why research the best?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Scott's preference was known going in so I wasn't surprised by the comments. Is there a noticeable sharpness on a 160" screen. Yes. Was it a big enough difference to make the BenQ a better projector. Nope. Both are fine projectors. I won't(can't) do DLP period. So that immediately takes the 5550 out of the running. The Epson with Alaric's (your) settings is a spectacular image. Brightness and contrast as well as color accuracy are HUGE factors in enjoying a projected image.


----------



## DunMunro

Dave in Green said:


> To be more exact, the new Epson 4000/5000/6000 series all use exactly the same lens. Epson is going to start culling out the lenses that measure best at the end of the lens assembly line and use those in the 6000 series. Depending on the level of quality control and consistency on the lens assembly line the difference between the best and worst lenses produced may be virtually undetectable to the human eye when viewing content.


I guess I could have said that the HC5050 uses rejected optics...


----------



## MidnightWatcher

DunMunro said:


> I guess I could have said that the HC5050 uses rejected optics...


Rejected optics aren't used at all. The 6050 simply gets higher priority than less expensive models.


----------



## DunMunro

MidnightWatcher said:


> Rejected optics aren't used at all. The 6050 simply gets higher priority than less expensive models.



Yes, the HC5050 and HC6050 use equal optics, but the 6050's _*are more equal*_ than the 5050's...


----------



## Spankey

Oh...it took about 10 minutes of Pacific Rim using Alaric's HDR settings and was really blown away!

I really find it hard to justify paying more for what I can't really imagine being $1,000+ in improvements.


----------



## scottyroo

groggrog said:


> Scottyroo - would love to know more about your Harmony macros for the 5050UB. Care to share?




Pretty simple. I just created a sequence in the Harmony App and soft buttons on my main screen of my top three. “Lens, enter, down, down, enter” etc.


----------



## Luminated67

Spankey said:


> Oh...it took about 10 minutes of Pacific Rim using Alaric's HDR settings and was really blown away!
> 
> I really find it hard to justify paying more for what I can't really imagine being $1,000+ in improvements.


**** movie but the picture quality is top notch. :grin:

Not sure of your BR player but the Panasonic's with their HDR Optimizer makes a world of difference. I know there are better Projectors out there but for the outlay I don't think there's any better for the money.


----------



## dimi123

GCS said:


> All that being said which direction is best. Looking at the video I like the sharp image of the BenQ but like the pop of the colors from the Epson. From what I am reading/seeing/hearing the color from the Epson is not necessarily accurate/true but the BenQ is accurate.


Why do people keep saying that Epson colors are not accurate? Here's what Projector Reviews are saying:

"Right out of the box, the color performance of this Epson is definitely a cut above. Epson has long been reported in many reviews, as putting out home projectors with really good color “right out of the box” without adjustment, for many years. No, they aren’t the best. Overall, I’d say Sony HT projectors offer the closest to calibrated color, of any brands, without doing any adjustment. But, that said, Epson may well be the closest to them."


----------



## groggrog

dimi123 said:


> Why do people keep saying that Epson colors are not accurate? Here's what Projector Reviews are saying:
> 
> "Right out of the box, the color performance of this Epson is definitely a cut above. Epson has long been reported in many reviews, as putting out home projectors with really good color “right out of the box” without adjustment, for many years. No, they aren’t the best. Overall, I’d say Sony HT projectors offer the closest to calibrated color, of any brands, without doing any adjustment. But, that said, Epson may well be the closest to them."



I haven't messed with any color settings at all and it looks great to me out of the box.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> MidnightWatcher said:
> 
> 
> 
> The 5050 also has the second generation HDR processor and pixel shift processor, and I don't think there is any real-world difference in the contrast ratio between the two. My thinking is that it's a marketing strategy to give the 5050 a more conservative 1,000,000:1 contrast ratio vs the 1,200,000:1 ratio for the 6050 in an effort to distinguish both apart, moreso than simply the exterior color, mount, extra lamp and longer warranty for the 6050.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I sure hope so. I'm tired of these annoying barriers to me entering the projector world. First they gimp the hdmi chipset last gen. Then they save the NEW processor for the pricey model. That would stink and cause me to pause again. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

I apologize for the misinformation the second generation pixel shifter and 2nd generation HDR processor are in both the 5050 and the 6050 I went back and corrected my original post. Once again please accept my apologies in the product descriptions on the Epson website there are slightly different verbiage under the 5050 and the 6050 for describing a pixel shifter and HDR processor but let me repeat the internal parts for the 5050 and the 6050 are IDENTICAL in terms of the pixel shifter and HDR processor.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MidnightWatcher said:


> DunMunro said:
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I could have said that the HC5050 uses rejected optics.../forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> 
> 
> Rejected optics aren't used at all. The 6050 simply gets higher priority than less expensive models.
Click to expand...

Midnight watcher thank you for bring up this very important point not all Optical panels are created equal. The ones that are used in the 6050 are capable of producing a 1.2 million to one or higher contrast ratio. The optical panels in the 5050 are capable of producing 1.0 million to 1 or higher contrast ratio. In my humble opinion both the 5050 and the 6050 produce an amazing picture and I have had both in my home theater within the last couple weeks. The only negative I have observed at all would be some occasional judder in panning scenes and I would have to play the same scenes on different projectors to determine if it's actually the projectors difficulty in processing the panning without judder or if it is really just the scene itself causing the perceived judder.


----------



## utkinpol

scottyroo said:


> Appreciate the feedback. I know you are a fan of the Epson. I am too!
> 
> I tried my best to take a balanced and objective approach to each for an out of the box comparison. sadly, even though people should get them calibrated, most don't.
> 
> As far as the "sales pitch" goes, I feel that's a bit harsh.However, I'll take the feedback and make note of it. I feel like I made sure to call out each for their strengths. I mentioned over and over and over again about how the input lag, brightness, and pop is better on the Epson. I also mentioned the P3 coverage can go above and beyond 100% on the Epson. I much prefer the Epson to the BenQ when it comes to sports and gaming. When it comes to movies, I prefer the HT5550. That's the bottom line and why I think owners in both camps will be happy. Did I holistically recommend the BenQ over the Epson? I did not. Perhaps I came across this way because to be honest I had low expectations from the HT5550 and is exceeded them greatly. I had very high expectations of the 5050UB and it mostly met them but I am still annoyed that I notice the drop in sharpness.
> 
> This is one man's opinion FWIW so I tried to be as objective as possible. If you have a W5700 and do your own side by side I'd love to get your thoughts and impressions.
> 
> With all that said, I'll take the feedback gladly and be sure to do calibrated comparisons in the future. I agree that and not mentioning placement flexibility was an omissionI should have addressed...and use a better camera on a tripod.
> 
> Thanks again! And Also thanks for your contributions to the community. I have created macros on my harmony remote to quickly change to your settings in the Epson memory.


thanks for the review - it was actually helpful to see the actual side by side. 

did you have a chance to compare 3D quality between those two as well?


----------



## MrJoshua42

Hello everyone! I'm currently using an Epson Home Cinema 3500 with a Silver Ticket 120" screen as my living room TV, and I'm very tempted to upgrade to the 5050ub. It looks like brightness will be about the same and the 5050ub checks out for distance from screen, mounting requirements, etc. to be a direct replacement. I do have ambient light during the day but most of my viewing is in the evening or at night.

From the specs and online calculators it looks like I'll be getting the same screen brightness so I'm expecting to get about equivalent performance during the day, but much improved picture at night due to HDR and "4k" support (when viewing 4k sources, and at least equivalent 1080P viewing). My question is, are those reasonable expectations? On a 120" screen at about 12' viewing distance am I going to be wowed? I'm pretty happy with my existing 1080P setup but man reading this forum has me itching to try 4K on the big screen. Mostly Netflix or Hulu streaming with Movies Anywhere, Vudu, and disks thrown in. 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

MrJoshua42 said:


> Hello everyone! I'm currently using an Epson Home Cinema 3500 with a Silver Ticket 120" screen as my living room TV, and I'm very tempted to upgrade to the 5050ub. It looks like brightness will be about the same and the 5050ub checks out for distance from screen, mounting requirements, etc. to be a direct replacement. I do have ambient light during the day but most of my viewing is in the evening or at night.
> 
> From the specs and online calculators it looks like I'll be getting the same screen brightness so I'm expecting to get about equivalent performance during the day, but much improved picture at night due to HDR and "4k" support (when viewing 4k sources, and at least equivalent 1080P viewing). My question is, are those reasonable expectations? On a 120" screen at about 12' viewing distance am I going to be wowed? I'm pretty happy with my existing 1080P setup but man reading this forum has me itching to try 4K on the big screen. Mostly Netflix or Hulu streaming with Movies Anywhere, Vudu, and disks thrown in.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk




I went from a 3700 on a 100’ Silver Ticket 16:9 screen to the 5050UB and I am wowed. I sit 12 feet away currently and will be upgrading screen size and moving to an acoustically transparent screen which will end up at about 10 feet to my eyes. 


I can’t decide on a 120 16:9 or 115 to 125 2:35:1.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## utkinpol

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I went from a 3700 on a 100’ Silver Ticket 16:9 screen to the 5050UB and I am wowed. I sit 12 feet away currently and will be upgrading screen size and moving to an acoustically transparent screen which will end up at about 10 feet to my eyes.
> 
> 
> I can’t decide on a 120 16:9 or 115 to 125 2:35:1.....
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


so, from a 12ft away on a 100" screen, did you actually get a significant enough sharpness improvement/difference to actually see with the 3700 to 5050 migration?


----------



## coderguy

skylarlove1999 said:


> The optical panels in the 5050 are capable of producing 1.0 million to 1 or higher contrast ratio.


Don't we all wish...


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

utkinpol said:


> so, from a 12ft away on a 100" screen, did you actually get a significant enough sharpness improvement/difference to actually see with the 3700 to 5050 migration?


Yes, it is definitely sharper looking! The biggest most obvious difference was the black levels, the wide color gamut is phenomenal. My biggest priorities was contrast and color/HDR performance. This delivers the goods for what was important to me. I am sure it will be more noticeable on a larger screen, but I do not want to go too big as I prefer to use Eco mode and so far its plenty bright. I want my PSA Speakers behind the screen and Im taking delivery of PSA new low port tune subs which are much bigger size wise than my current sealed set up. As a result the screen will be closer and more immersive. 

This is a great projector especially considering the price point. Great color and HDR performance, good black levels, the automatic lens with memory. I feel it is quieter than my previous projector and it still has plenty of brightness.


----------



## GCS

What's everyone using for 3D glasses for this?


----------



## Solarium

The 6050UB is the same price as the JVC x790r, will it compete?


----------



## Herve

Any rumors on when Epson will introduce a native 4K lamp PJ?


Thanks


----------



## MrJoshua42

Well, that's a 5050ub ordered. I'm looking forward to getting it installed and set up. It should be here tomorrow. 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk


----------



## Dave in Green

Outside of North America there's an EH-TW9400 with black case and an EH-TW9400W with white case. They have identical specs including contrast and only differ in case color. I would question any difference in specs between the 5050UB and 6050UB. It just doesn't make sense to complicate the manufacturing process to produce a slightly less capable model for the North American market only. I suspect independent measurements will show the 5050UB and 6050UB have identical performance regardless of what the Epson marketing department claims to help justify the higher price of the 6050UB. Historically Epson's 5000 and 6000 series for North America have differed only in case color, warranty length and the inclusion of a spare lamp and projector mount.


----------



## rbk123

Alaric said:


> There's a trick for this, and it is in the set up of the memory. Small back adjustments don't work, so gently go forwards to the point you want and then save the position. If you need to go back, do a very large adjustment and then slowly creep forwards.
> It a well known Epson thing!


Which way is forwards (and which is back)? Since we're talking left/right and up/down being off, I must say I'm stumped.


----------



## Alaric

rbk123 said:


> Which way is forwards (and which is back)? Since we're talking left/right and up/down being off, I must say I'm stumped.


The exact direction isn't important from what i recall you just need to keep going in one direction to reach the point you want to save. 
If you go past, then go massively past and move then slowly back.

Doing little back and forwards to get it spot on confuses it and it is these adjustments that it misses and then it appears like the lens memory is sloppy. 

I seem to recall there being a big pdf how to but can't find it to link at the moment. 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## rbk123

Ok, that makes sense. I encountered similar behavior when trying to optimize the focus so I know what you mean.


----------



## Solarium

At this point, if I can find a 5040UB refurb for $1150 or the new one plus a replacement lamp for $2k, is it worth the upgrade to the 5050UB? I heard there's some optimization for the pixel shifting so the 5050UB is more clear, but is it a significant difference? The 5050UB already doesn't have as sharp of an image as the BenQ HT5550, compromising that sharpness plus more for the 5040UB might be too hard to swallow. Also, is the 5050UB's HDR significantly better than the 5040UB's?


----------



## skylarlove1999

rustolemite said:


> Really quick dumb question, got my 5050 today but will Friday before I can install it, is it okay to leave the box sitting on it's side till I install it?
> Like I said dumb.
> 
> Thanks


I would never let anything designed to be horizontal stay vertical for too long. Only Epson themselves could speak to whether being placed vertically for an extended period of time negatively affects internal components.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Watching Blackhawk Down 4K right now with BEQ and this is another jaw dropping audio and video experience. Using Alaric’s HDR accurate settings with the slider at 5 and lamp in ECO. I have not had to adjust a thing it’s just perfect. The color saturation, details and black levels. I am one happy camper right now the Epson paired with this Panasonic player is a match made in heaven. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

groggrog said:


> dimi123 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why do people keep saying that Epson colors are not accurate? Here's what Projector Reviews are saying:
> 
> "Right out of the box, the color performance of this Epson is definitely a cut above. Epson has long been reported in many reviews, as putting out home projectors with really good color “right out of the box” without adjustment, for many years. No, they aren’t the best. Overall, I’d say Sony HT projectors offer the closest to calibrated color, of any brands, without doing any adjustment. But, that said, Epson may well be the closest to them."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't messed with any color settings at all and it looks great to me out of the box.
Click to expand...

I would say depending upon the picture mode the color seems to be very accurate judging by human eye alone I'm sure once use instruments you are going to find differences from what would be be considered ideal. But the picture looks so good out of the box I am anxious about what happens as the lamp dims every so slightly in the next 50-100 hours as is normal with a new projector. But I would put my 6050 up against a JVC DLA-NX5 and without telling people anything about either projector which picture they prefer. Obviously both projectors have their pros and cons. I dont feel you can go wrong with either. My only complaint of the 6050 so far would be some slight judder in a small percentage of panning scenes. Not a deal breaker by any means but worth mentioning. Good example would be the camera moving towards the pyramid panning over the desert at the beginning of X-men Apocalypse. Tough scene for any display in terms of judder.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Solarium said:


> At this point, if I can find a 5040UB refurb for $1150 or the new one plus a replacement lamp for $2k, is it worth the upgrade to the 5050UB? I heard there's some optimization for the pixel shifting so the 5050UB is more clear, but is it a significant difference? The 5050UB already doesn't have as sharp of an image as the BenQ HT5550, compromising that sharpness plus more for the 5040UB might be too hard to swallow. Also, is the 5050UB's HDR significantly better than the 5040UB's?


The 5040 put out a great image. I was very impressed with everything including HDR. That is until I pressed the power button on my 5050 and put my Avenger Infinity War 4K disc in my Panasonic ub820. Then I couldn't unsee how poor HDR really was on my 5040. The 5050 has a sharper more detailed image overall in SDR or HDR. My wife noticed the increased sharpness and resolution. she isn't usually one to notice or comment. HDR is night and day difference. I had two Epson 5040s with power supply issues. So I was skeptical of how much better could the 5050ub be in real world viewing. It just is.


----------



## JewDaddy

I know people have asked and I’ve searched and can’t find Alaric’s settings for HDR movies. Can someone please send me a link to his settings?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Scroll down to Projector Set-Up:

https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home


----------



## skylarlove1999

MidnightWatcher said:


> Scroll down to Projector Set-Up:
> 
> https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home


Thank you Midnight Watcher. Much appreciated.


----------



## ckronengold

Alaric said:


> The exact direction isn't important from what i recall you just need to keep going in one direction to reach the point you want to save.
> If you go past, then go massively past and move then slowly back.
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


plus, you can reverse / flip the direction in the settings anyway. up is down, down is up. and also depends if your projector is hanging or standing. 

But the "start big, then go small" is a great tip. Thanks!


----------



## Solarium

skylarlove1999 said:


> The 5040 put out a great image. I was very impressed with everything including HDR. That is until I pressed the power button on my 5050 and put my Avenger Infinity War 4K disc in my Panasonic ub820. Then I couldn't unsee how poor HDR really was on my 5040. The 5050 has a sharper more detailed image overall in SDR or HDR. My wife noticed the increased sharpness and resolution. she isn't usually one to notice or comment. HDR is night and day difference. I had two Epson 5040s with power supply issues. So I was skeptical of how much better could the 5050ub be in real world viewing. It just is.


You convinced me with the HDR  How about the sharpness? How much % improvement would you say over the 5040UB? The $1150 refurb price is really tempting lol

Would a JVC X790R provide as good black levels, brightness, HDR but also much improved sharpness due to using x4 instead of x2 lens shifting?


----------



## asolor78

GOOD DAY EVERYONE, 

New EPSON 5050ub Owner here... Appreciate all the information provided on this Beast of projector on this forum. I have now named it the Kraken for my own pleasure. Any who, I have to give thanks to @Alaric rewatched Wonder woman 4k last night and enjoyed the pictue view with hdr bright option.. have yet to use accurate. I do have a question, and as of now I am currently running a 4k uhd sony x700 at 24hz 4k hdr.. only reason is all cabling at this point is 1.4 hdmi 10gb and thats because im coming from a epson 5010. I will upgrade cabling soon enough. 

My question is regarding all the "new tech" options i show on here ... I noticed when running a 4k movie 4k enhancement is greyed out.. and running 1080p bluray may also show 4k enhancement with presets... does anyone know what each preset do?? 

Also HDR Slider, I used again "HDR" bright setting @Alaric calibrations provided.. I do notice that going high to low brightens the image .. but not certain how to tell what may be the sweet spot?.. learning as I go with this new beast and hope to get some feedback.. Oh and one last question @Alaric, any recommendations to gaming calibration setting and/or 3d movies?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Solarium said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The 5040 put out a great image. I was very impressed with everything including HDR. That is until I pressed the power button on my 5050 and put my Avenger Infinity War 4K disc in my Panasonic ub820. Then I couldn't unsee how poor HDR really was on my 5040. The 5050 has a sharper more detailed image overall in SDR or HDR. My wife noticed the increased sharpness and resolution. she isn't usually one to notice or comment. HDR is night and day difference. I had two Epson 5040s with power supply issues. So I was skeptical of how much better could the 5050ub be in real world viewing. It just is.
> 
> 
> 
> You convinced me with the HDR /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif How about the sharpness? How much % improvement would you say over the 5040UB? The $1150 refurb price is really tempting lol
> 
> Would a JVC X790R provide as good black levels, brightness, HDR but also much improved sharpness due to using x4 instead of x2 lens shifting?
Click to expand...

HDR improvement is night and day difference for me from the 5040. Black level, contrast, depth, sharpness and resolution I would say about 25%. Black level increase would be only about 10% but then again the black levels were really good on the 5040 already. 

I have not seen the X790R but I have seen the JVC NX7 and NX5. I would take the 5050 over the NX5 due to better HDR IMHO. NX5 was noticeably sharper and more detailed but not amazingly so. I sit at 12 ft as was the demo. The NX7 blew me away in almost every respect as did the 6050. I would need a side by side to compare to which one throws a better image. I was just too in awe of each to be objective. I have had the 6050 for three days now and each 4K disc has me dropping my jaw. This is the end of Infinity War on my 6050 from 12 ft back. Blacked out theater with black masking panels on a 120 inch 16:9 Seymour Glacier White screen.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Another shot from my 6050 viewing Guardians of the Galaxy 2 only using my phone. Doesn't nearly do it justice.


----------



## ezelkow1

asolor78 said:


> GOOD DAY EVERYONE,
> 
> New EPSON 5050ub Owner here... Appreciate all the information provided on this Beast of projector on this forum. I have now named it the Kraken for my own pleasure. Any who, I have to give thanks to @Alaric rewatched Wonder woman 4k last night and enjoyed the pictue view with hdr bright option.. have yet to use accurate. I do have a question, and as of now I am currently running a 4k uhd sony x700 at 24hz 4k hdr.. only reason is all cabling at this point is 1.4 hdmi 10gb and thats because im coming from a epson 5010. I will upgrade cabling soon enough.
> 
> My question is regarding all the "new tech" options i show on here ... I noticed when running a 4k movie 4k enhancement is greyed out.. and running 1080p bluray may also show 4k enhancement with presets... does anyone know what each preset do??
> 
> Also HDR Slider, I used again "HDR" bright setting @Alaric calibrations provided.. I do notice that going high to low brightens the image .. but not certain how to tell what may be the sweet spot?.. learning as I go with this new beast and hope to get some feedback.. Oh and one last question @Alaric, any recommendations to gaming calibration setting and/or 3d movies?


with a 4k signal 4k enhancement is always on no matter what. With a 1080p signal you can enable/disable


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Another shot from my 6050 viewing Guardians of the Galaxy 2 only using my phone. Doesn't nearly do it justice.




More screen shots please and tips on how to take them properly . I have so many pictures but they pale in comparison 

I did like this gem though great details on the shadow and the sun and sky looked great 












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GCS

Gosh I am just so chicken **** I so want to pull the trigger on this projector I even have it in my cart ready to click buy. Just such a cheap a$$ and don't want to spend the 3k, LOL.

You guys posting all these pics just makes me want to buy even more.


----------



## ezelkow1

Here are my shots from when I first set it up, just using 'our planet' as a test image. The jungle and desert scenes are with some ambient light since this is our family room and we have panel shades on the back door that block out most light, but not all during the day (also not sure why the insect shots are upside down, they also arent particularly indicative of what you see since theres motion so they end up a bit blurry in shots, in real life its amazing detail)


----------



## carmona

ezelkow1 said:


> Here are my shots from when I first set it up, just using 'our planet' as a test image. The jungle and desert scenes are with some ambient light since this is our family room and we have panel shades on the back door that block out most light, but not all during the day (also not sure why the insect shots are upside down, they also arent particularly indicative of what you see since theres motion so they end up a bit blurry in shots, in real life its amazing detail)


Those screen shots are impressive. Are you using the 5050 or the 6050? Thanks!


----------



## ezelkow1

carmona said:


> those screen shots are impressive. Are you using the 5050 or the 6050? Thanks!


5050


----------



## carmona

ezelkow1 said:


> 5050


Thanks for the info and the beautiful pics.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Another shot from my 6050 viewing Guardians of the Galaxy 2 only using my phone. Doesn't nearly do it justice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More screen shots please and tips on how to take them properly . I have so many pictures but they pale in comparison
> 
> I did like this gem though great details on the shadow and the sun and sky looked great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Thanks for sharing that is a beautiful shot Logan looks amazing on these projectors


----------



## rustolemite

skylarlove1999 said:


> HDR improvement is 200% honestly if not more. Black level, contrast, depth, sharpness and resolution I would say about 25%. Black level increase would be only about 10% but then again the black levels were really good on the 5040 already.
> 
> I have not seen the X790R but I have seen the JVC NX7 and NX5. I would take the 5050 over the NX5 due to better HDR IMHO. NX5 was noticeably sharper and more detailed but not amazingly so. I sit at 12 ft as was the demo. The NX7 blew me away in almost every respect as did the 6050. I would need a side by side to compare to which one throws a better image. I was just too in awe of each to be objective. I have had the 6050 for three days now and each 4K disc has me dropping my jaw. This is the end of Infinity War on my 6050 from 12 ft back. Blacked out theater with black masking panels on a 120 inch 16:9 Seymour Glacier White screen.


What Color Mode and Power/Fan setting are you using?

Thanks


----------



## rustolemite

So hooked my 5050 up a little while ago, and one thing I noticed was it seemed to take a little longer to switch input devices than on the 5040, this could be just me not sure.
I was using the 5040 on Bright Cinema + Eco Mode and left Rec.2020 on, I tried Bright Cinema on the 5050 but it's not the same for now I am using Dynamic + Eco mode which I so far enjoy the most. 

Anybody that's using Eco mode do you have any settings you can share?

Thanks


----------



## skylarlove1999

rustolemite said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> HDR improvement is 200% honestly if not more. Black level, contrast, depth, sharpness and resolution I would say about 25%. Black level increase would be only about 10% but then again the black levels were really good on the 5040 already.
> 
> I have not seen the X790R but I have seen the JVC NX7 and NX5. I would take the 5050 over the NX5 due to better HDR IMHO. NX5 was noticeably sharper and more detailed but not amazingly so. I sit at 12 ft as was the demo. The NX7 blew me away in almost every respect as did the 6050. I would need a side by side to compare to which one throws a better image. I was just too in awe of each to be objective. I have had the 6050 for three days now and each 4K disc has me dropping my jaw. This is the end of Infinity War on my 6050 from 12 ft back. Blacked out theater with black masking panels on a 120 inch 16:9 Seymour Glacier White screen.
> 
> 
> 
> What Color Mode and Power/Fan setting are you using?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

I have been using Bright Cinema with Medium Power Consumption and preset 3 with high speed auto Iris. I usually don't really dial in any settings until the lamp hours get to around 100 and let the lamp brightness start to normalize. I have heard alaric's settings work really well. I will play around with his settings this weekend


----------



## Gellert1

Has anyone been able to watch YouTube videos in 4K/60hz?

My 5050ub works up to 4K/30hz but at 4K/60hz, the video either won't load at all or it's extremely choppy and unwatchable.

I have an expensive fiber optic HDMI cable and my receiver is set up to 4:4:4 on all HDMI inputs/outputs.

If anyone can get 4K/60hz for YouTube to work, please let me know.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> Has anyone been able to watch YouTube videos in 4K/60hz?
> 
> My 5050ub works up to 4K/30hz but at 4K/60hz, the video either won't load at all or it's extremely choppy and unwatchable.
> 
> I have an expensive fiber optic HDMI cable and my receiver is set up to 4:4:4 on all HDMI inputs/outputs.
> 
> If anyone can get 4K/60hz for YouTube to work, please let me know.


What streaming device are you using with YouTube?


----------



## Gellert1

skylarlove1999 said:


> What streaming device are you using with YouTube?


I'm using the Amazon Fire 4K (2nd generation). It's on the latest firmware.
Everything looks great but it can't do 4K/60. One of the reasons I bought the 5050 was it's supposed ability to stream YT in 4K/60.


----------



## DavidK442

CallingMrBenzo said:


> More screen shots please and tips on how to take them properly . I have so many pictures but they pale in comparison
> 
> I did like this gem though great details on the shadow and the sun and sky looked great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Difficult to tell if the poor black level is the projector or a result of reflection off light colored room surfaces.
Can you post a lights on room picture please, including ceiling, side walls and floor near the screen?
Thanks.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Another shot from my 6050 viewing Guardians of the Galaxy 2 only using my phone. Doesn't nearly do it justice.


I never realised we here in the UK with our TW9400 was actually the 6050 until it’s spec was released, yeah it is quite special and might explain why over here a few who demoed it against the JVC actually picked the Epson. It throws a pretty awesome image.


----------



## ezelkow1

Gellert said:


> I'm using the Amazon Fire 4K (2nd generation). It's on the latest firmware.
> Everything looks great but it can't do 4K/60. One of the reasons I bought the 5050 was it's supposed ability to stream YT in 4K/60.


What if you step it down to 4:2:2? Wonder if yt is expecting to be able to do hdr and since you're using 4:4:4 it cant


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Another shot from my 6050 viewing Guardians of the Galaxy 2 only using my phone. Doesn't nearly do it justice.
> 
> 
> 
> I never realised we here in the UK with our TW9400 was actually the 6050 until it’s spec was released, yeah it is quite special and might explain why over here a few who demoed it against the JVC actually picked the Epson. It throws a pretty awesome image.
Click to expand...

Yes UK definitely the 9400 is the 6050. Throws an amazing image. I slightly preferred the resolution and sharpness of the JVC Nx7 but preferred HDR of the 6050. And the Epson 6050 comes with a great mount and a free lamp and is half the price and replacement bulbs are half the bulbs for JVC. 

From a performance ÷ price=value the Epson is the winner for me. If you gave me $8K I would still buy the Epson 6050 and use the other $4K on other areas of my theater. Probably amps and preamp instead of my Denon 4300. If money were no object I am still not sure I wouldn't take the 6050 over the JVC Nx7 due to the spectacular HDR on the 6050. I would say there were slightly more spectral highlights with the JVC Nx7 which was very pleasing to the eyes but the overall brightness didn't give me the natural daylight feel in outdoor scenes that I get with the 6050. With more calibrating and tinkering I may be able to achieve similar results in the spectral highlights that I saw with the JVC NX7. Still plenty with the 6050 just not as detailed. X-MEN Apocalypse is pretty much demo from beginning to end.


----------



## Rick4hun

Pixelshift technology same thing if you eat MSG i think... Why you want to scamming your eyes?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What streaming device are you using with YouTube?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the Amazon Fire 4K (2nd generation). It's on the latest firmware.
> Everything looks great but it can't do 4K/60. One of the reasons I bought the 5050 was it's supposed ability to stream YT in 4K/60.
Click to expand...

The specs definitely show it being capable. On your reciever you are setting video signal to pass through and letting the Projector handle all video processing correct? From the way you described it sounds like a handshake issue between components somewhere along the signal path. The easiest way to narrow it down would be to bypass your reciever and plug your HDMI Fiber optic cable directly into the projector but you can't do that with the fire stick. You can try plugging the fire stick directly into the projector. You wont get any sound but you might be able to see what signal you get from YouTube when choosing 4K content. Just press menu and go to projector info. I know my Roku Ultra had some handshake issues with the 5050 and would lock onto an Hdr signal and not let go and when switching to Sdr content the projector info was showing rec709 with an HDR SIGNAL. It would totally throw off the color saturation. The only way to break the signal lock was to switch between inputs on the projector. Turns out there was an advanced picture setting in the Roku player I needed to change that fixed the signal lock issue. Don't give up I am sure it can be worked out.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Rick4hun said:


> Pixelshift technology same thing if you eat MSG i think... Why you want to scamming your eyes?


MSG can be hazardous to your health. Pixel shifting won't be hazardous on your wallet.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> Has anyone been able to watch YouTube videos in 4K/60hz?
> 
> My 5050ub works up to 4K/30hz but at 4K/60hz, the video either won't load at all or it's extremely choppy and unwatchable.
> 
> I have an expensive fiber optic HDMI cable and my receiver is set up to 4:4:4 on all HDMI inputs/outputs.
> 
> If anyone can get 4K/60hz for YouTube to work, please let me know.


4:4:4 may be the issue. Depending on the color depth info (12 bit 10 bit 8bit) from the signal from the video on YouTube that is 4k it might not be able to utilize 4:4:4. Maybe try changing to 4:2:2 or 4:2:0 in the reciever and see if you get a better result.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Rick4hun said:


> Pixelshift technology same thing if you eat MSG i think... Why you want to scamming your eyes?


Can you please explain your quote? I don't get it. Is it a building that turns into a robot?


----------



## Rick4hun

MidnightWatcher said:


> MSG can be hazardous to your health. Pixel shifting is healthy to your wallet.





We haven't any information about long term use of picelshift, if it cause eye problem, or eye fatigue, or hidden epilepsy-like reaction, (looks like other screen flickering - picture- freshing ) you will understand my opinion. 



Technology faster than long term impression testing.


----------



## Rick4hun

skylarlove1999 said:


> Can you please explain your quote? I don't get it. Is it a building that turns into a robot?



Excuse me, i'm can't speak/write fluency in english. I'm avoid a new pixel- freshing technologies without any hidden informations about long term use.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Rick4hun said:


> We haven't any information about long term use of picelshift, if it cause eye problem, or eye fatigue, or hidden epilepsy-like reaction, (looks like other screen flickering - picture- freshing ) you will understand my opinion.


Well, staring at shifting pixels on 60hz to 120hz+ computer screens and old CRTs for decades can't be much different. I still see quite well.


----------



## Rick4hun

MidnightWatcher said:


> Well, staring at shifting pixels on 60hz to 120hz+ computer screens and old CRTs for decades can't be much different. I still see quite well.



I think, pixelshift totally different from old CRTs screen redraw, it's a sw 4K, that never can better than real 4K.


----------



## GForce1981

Hi everyone, have we got confirmation from Epson that the recently released 6050 is the same as the TW9400??? Really keen to get this however wonder why the 6050 only just released now if the 9400 was ready a while ago?


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Rick4hun said:


> I think, pixelshift totally different from old CRTs screen redraw, it's a sw 4K, that never can better than real 4K.


Sure, but I don't see that as being a real problem.

Hmmm... "I don't see" it as being a problem. Maybe I'm going blind after all.


----------



## Nexgen76

skylarlove1999 said:


> HDR improvement is 200% honestly if not more. Black level, contrast, depth, sharpness and resolution I would say about 25%. Black level increase would be only about 10% but then again the black levels were really good on the 5040 already.
> 
> [highlight]I have not seen the X790R but I have seen the JVC NX7 and NX5. I would take the 5050 over the NX5 due to better HDR IMHO[/highlight]. NX5 was noticeably sharper and more detailed but not amazingly so. I sit at 12 ft as was the demo. The NX7 blew me away in almost every respect as did the 6050. I would need a side by side to compare to which one throws a better image. I was just too in awe of each to be objective. I have had the 6050 for three days now and each 4K disc has me dropping my jaw. This is the end of Infinity War on my 6050 from 12 ft back. Blacked out theater with black masking panels on a 120 inch 16:9 Seymour Glacier White screen.



The Epson 5050 is great but the reason i didn't get it because one of it's weak points is HDR processing after you calibrated it you lose almost half of it's lumens. So I'm sure those unit's you demo wasn't calibrated. After NX series calibrated you don't lose nowhere near as much lumens which is important for HDR but not the most important thing for HDR tone mapping is.


----------



## Gellert1

skylarlove1999 said:


> The specs definitely show it being capable. On your reciever you are setting video signal to pass through and letting the Projector handle all video processing correct? From the way you described it sounds like a handshake issue between components somewhere along the signal path. The easiest way to narrow it down would be to bypass your reciever and plug your HDMI Fiber optic cable directly into the projector but you can't do that with the fire stick. You can try plugging the fire stick directly into the projector. You wont get any sound but you might be able to see what signal you get from YouTube when choosing 4K content. Just press menu and go to projector info. I know my Roku Ultra had some handshake issues with the 5050 and would lock onto an Hdr signal and not let go and when switching to Sdr content the projector info was showing rec709 with an HDR SIGNAL. It would totally throw off the color saturation. The only way to break the signal lock was to switch between inputs on the projector. Turns out there was an advanced picture setting in the Roku player I needed to change that fixed the signal lock issue. Don't give up I am sure it can be worked out.


Well here's a question then. Am I supposed to enable and set my receiver's HDMI settings to "pass through" the HDMI signal directly to the projector?

As I mentioned, I have manually set all four HDMI inputs to 4:4:4 thinking that'd give me the best image. Tomorrow, I will set the Amazon Fire TV box to "pass through" instead of 4:4:4 and I'll see if that helps.

My Fire TV streamer is not a stick. It's the second generation 4K unit that looks like a black, double CD case. I can try going from there directly into the Epson (bypassing the receiver altogether) to see if that helps. But first, I'll try using that pass-through setting on the receiver's HDMI inputs like you advised.


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey everyone! I’ve been working on dialing in HDR 4K movie settings and I feel like I finally got them where they look fantastic! I’ve tried Alaric’s Bright and Digital Cinema. They both have things I like and dislike about them. However, I keep finding myself going back to the settings I’ve dialed in myself. I feel like they’re a good balance of both of his bright and digital cinema settings. Would love some feedback if anyone wants to try them out. Let me know!

Color Mode - Natural
Brightness - 48
Contrast - 43
Color Saturation - 56
Tint - 50
Sharpness - 5,5,5
Color Temp - 7000K
Skin Tone - 3
Custom - 46,49,52,45,50,52
Grayscale
Adjustment 8 0,0-1
Adjustment 7 -2,0,0
Adjustment 6 -1,1,0
Adjustment 5 -1,-2,-2
Adjustment 4 -1,0,1
Adjustment 3 -2,-2,0
Adjustment 2 0,0,0
Adjustment 1 0,0,0
Image Enhancement - Preset 2
Gamma -2
Did not adjust RGBCMY
Lens Iris 0
Power Consumption - High
Auto Iris - High
Video Range - Auto
EDID - Expanded 
Image Processing - Fine
HDR10 Setting - 5


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Nexgen76 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> HDR improvement is 200% honestly if not more. Black level, contrast, depth, sharpness and resolution I would say about 25%. Black level increase would be only about 10% but then again the black levels were really good on the 5040 already.
> 
> [highlight]I have not seen the X790R but I have seen the JVC NX7 and NX5. I would take the 5050 over the NX5 due to better HDR IMHO[/highlight]. NX5 was noticeably sharper and more detailed but not amazingly so. I sit at 12 ft as was the demo. The NX7 blew me away in almost every respect as did the 6050. I would need a side by side to compare to which one throws a better image. I was just too in awe of each to be objective. I have had the 6050 for three days now and each 4K disc has me dropping my jaw. This is the end of Infinity War on my 6050 from 12 ft back. Blacked out theater with black masking panels on a 120 inch 16:9 Seymour Glacier White screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Epson 5050 is great but the reason i didn't get it because one of it's weak points is HDR processing after you calibrated it you lose almost half of it's lumens. So I'm sure those unit's you demo wasn't calibrated. After NX series calibrated you don't lose nowhere near as much lumens which is important for HDR but not the most important thing for HDR tone mapping is.
Click to expand...

Opinions are just that. You seem to be stating facts about lumens output after calibration. Do you have any data points you can post that displays accurate color output of the 5050 and the corresponding dropoff of 50% of the published lumens post calibration?

There is generally some decrease in light output to achieve accurate color representation upon calibration of almost any display. You have made a pretty bold statement of fact as to a loss of 50% light output for the Epson 5050ub while at the same stating there is virtually no loss in published lumens for the JVC post calibration. 

Both of those statements seem to be incongruous to my experience in real world viewing with each of the Epson projectors. I did not demo the 5050 or 6050 . I had them both in my theater. I did not have a JVC NX7 in my theater. I wish that I did so I could provide a more informed comparison. 

I am just asking for you to post data on both the Epson and JVC projectors to support your statement of facts regarding the lumens output of each projector post calibration.

I was just stating my opinion about which image my eyes preferred, understanding my preference is not anchored in any factual based evidence.

I am curious as to what projector you chose for your theater and how many hours were on it when it was calibrated and by whom. If you were able to achieve close to zero decrease in lumens output post calibration and yet achieve accurate color representation in your projector that truly is amazing and would love to peruse your calibration report.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Rick4hun said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can you please explain your quote? I don't get it. Is it a building that turns into a robot?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse me, i'm can't speak/write fluency in english. I'm avoid a new pixel- freshing technologies without any hidden informations about long term use.
Click to expand...

So are you concerned about pixel shifting technology from the standpoint of long term negative impact on eye health or is your concern about picture quality?


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidK442 said:


> CallingMrBenzo said:
> 
> 
> 
> More screen shots please and tips on how to take them properly . I have so many pictures but they pale in comparison
> 
> I did like this gem though great details on the shadow and the sun and sky looked great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Difficult to tell if the poor black level is the projector or a result of reflection off light colored room surfaces.
> Can you post a lights on room picture please, including ceiling, side walls and floor near the screen?
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

Honestly trying to determine if a projector has poor or outstanding black levels based upon a picture regardless of lights on/off, room reflections is really an effort in futility. When I post pictures or see others post pictures I view it as an invitation to go and view the projector myself so I can see for myself the image quality. I sincerely hope that there isn't anyone who would base a projector purchase on pictures posted on the internet. I strongly believe each home theater enthusiast should trust their own eyes.


----------



## SALadder22FF

I've been a long time 5040Ube owner. I use it alot for daily viewing. DirecTV, playing Xbox and watching YouTube and then at night watching movies. I've always been a tad disappointed with the HDR for movies as even in blacked out room it would get somewhat too dim. I was also sad about not being able to do 4k 60fps HDR on Xbox games or get the HDR signal from DirecTV 4k channel. 

It sounds like this new 5050Ub fixes ALL the problems I've had with the 5040. I'm reading reviews saying the HDR is leaps and bounds what it is from what I currently have. Movies are my favorite thing to do and if this really is that much better sounds like a win.

Could I get some feedback from you guys who had the 5040 on this. Totally worth it for my applications?


----------



## Nexgen76

skylarlove1999 said:


> Opinions are just that. You seem to be stating facts about lumens output after calibration. Do you have any data points you can post that displays accurate color output of the 5050 and the corresponding dropoff of 50% of the published lumens post calibration?
> 
> There is generally some decrease in light output to achieve accurate color representation upon calibration of almost any display. You have made a pretty bold statement of fact as to a loss of 50% light output for the Epson 5050ub while at the same stating there is virtually no loss in published lumens for the JVC post calibration.
> 
> Both of those statements seem to be incongruous to my experience in real world viewing with each of the Epson projectors. I did not demo the 5050 or 6050 . I had them both in my theater. I did not have a JVC NX7 in my theater. I wish that I did so I could provide a more informed comparison.
> 
> I am just asking for you to post data on both the Epson and JVC projectors to support your statement of facts regarding the lumens output of each projector post calibration.
> 
> I was just stating my opinion about which image my eyes preferred, understanding my preference is not anchored in any factual based evidence.
> 
> I am curious as to what projector you chose for your theater and how many hours were on it when it was calibrated and by whom. If you were able to achieve close to zero decrease in lumens output post calibration and yet achieve accurate color representation in your projector that truly is amazing and would love to peruse your calibration report.



The info you asking is clearly on this forum with simple goggle search....Please tell me how Epson 5050 calibrated wouldn't come out nearly the same as 5040(which i did own at one time). The only difference between the two is the chipset & refined HDR process. I've own majority of these projector we are talking about minus 5050 but i have seen it here at dealer calibrated in velvet dark pit. His calibration report was close to 5040. The 5050 is a great projector if anyone own one would be happy but sometime on here opinions start to become exaggerations. Here Cine4home review seem to say the same thing most has pointed out here.


*The internal DCI filter unfortunately still costs more than 70% light, with the original cinema color space remaining around 840 lumens maximum.*


*In the calibrated brightness, our test copy could not distinguish itself from its predecessor, whereby the series scattering remains to be investigated. For the calibrated n contrast values, it looks similar*



http://cine4home.de/epson-eh-tw9400-in-den-teststudios-eingetroffen-erste-ergebnisse/


----------



## JewDaddy

SALadder22FF said:


> I've been a long time 5040Ube owner. I use it alot for daily viewing. DirecTV, playing Xbox and watching YouTube and then at night watching movies. I've always been a tad disappointed with the HDR for movies as even in blacked out room it would get somewhat too dim. I was also sad about not being able to do 4k 60fps HDR on Xbox games or get the HDR signal from DirecTV 4k channel.
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like this new 5050Ub fixes ALL the problems I've had with the 5040. I'm reading reviews saying the HDR is leaps and bounds what it is from what I currently have. Movies are my favorite thing to do and if this really is that much better sounds like a win.
> 
> 
> 
> Could I get some feedback from you guys who had the 5040 on this. Totally worth it for my applications?




I had the 5040 for over two years and had the same problems you experienced as well. I upgraded to the 5050 and it is definitely an upgrade from the 5050. How much? Well it’s hard to say because I think everyone will have their own opinion on this subject. Some will find it leaps and bounds better in certain areas and others will not see a huge difference. I myself am kind of in the middle. 

It fixes the issue of 4K 60hz HDR gaming which is nice, but I personally feel as though the actual HDR performance isn’t a giant leap above the 5040. Is it better? Yes. How much better? Again I think that depends on the user. It’s improved but I don’t personally feel like it’s a huge difference from the 5040. Everything else is pretty much identical to the 5040 from my perspective. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## astrobrooks76

*Epson 5050 frame interpolation HELP*

I recently purchased my first projector, the Epson 5050. It is incredible for the money. My only complaint is that when frame interpolation is set to "off", I still notice some slight motion smoothing. All I watch is movies so I am extrememly sensitive to it.

I love this projector but not sure I can keep it if I can't get the motion smoothing to be completely gone. It bothers me to death. I want films to look like films.

Anyone have a suggestion for me? For reference I am using a standard Sony blu ray player I bought a couple years ago. 

I am new here, but have been reading the site for years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Hey everyone! I’ve been working on dialing in HDR 4K movie settings and I feel like I finally got them where they look fantastic! I’ve tried Alaric’s Bright and Digital Cinema. They both have things I like and dislike about them. However, I keep finding myself going back to the settings I’ve dialed in myself. I feel like they’re a good balance of both of his bright and digital cinema settings. Would love some feedback if anyone wants to try them out. Let me know!
> 
> Color Mode - Natural
> Brightness - 48
> Contrast - 43
> Color Saturation - 56
> Tint - 50
> Sharpness - 5,5,5
> Color Temp - 7000K
> Skin Tone - 3
> Custom - 46,49,52,45,50,52
> Grayscale
> Adjustment 8 0,0-1
> Adjustment 7 -2,0,0
> Adjustment 6 -1,1,0
> Adjustment 5 -1,-2,-2
> Adjustment 4 -1,0,1
> Adjustment 3 -2,-2,0
> Adjustment 2 0,0,0
> Adjustment 1 0,0,0
> Image Enhancement - Preset 2
> Gamma -2
> Did not adjust RGBCMY
> Lens Iris 0
> Power Consumption - High
> Auto Iris - High
> Video Range - Auto
> EDID - Expanded
> Image Processing - Fine
> HDR10 Setting - 5
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What’s your room like, size screen and gain, is it white, grey or acoustic. Also throw distance from projector to screen.

Mine has been professionally calibrated and the below images are a result of this


----------



## netwebber

Rick4hun said:


> Pixelshift technology same thing if you eat MSG i think... Why you want to scamming your eyes?


Hate to break it to you, but the concept of video and the entire art of cinema is "scamming your eyes." Nothing on your screen is actually moving. "It's an _illusion_, Michael."


----------



## skylarlove1999

Nexgen76 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions are just that. You seem to be stating facts about lumens output after calibration. Do you have any data points you can post that displays accurate color output of the 5050 and the corresponding dropoff of 50% of the published lumens post calibration?
> 
> There is generally some decrease in light output to achieve accurate color representation upon calibration of almost any display. You have made a pretty bold statement of fact as to a loss of 50% light output for the Epson 5050ub while at the same stating there is virtually no loss in published lumens for the JVC post calibration.
> 
> Both of those statements seem to be incongruous to my experience in real world viewing with each of the Epson projectors. I did not demo the 5050 or 6050 . I had them both in my theater. I did not have a JVC NX7 in my theater. I wish that I did so I could provide a more informed comparison.
> 
> I am just asking for you to post data on both the Epson and JVC projectors to support your statement of facts regarding the lumens output of each projector post calibration.
> 
> I was just stating my opinion about which image my eyes preferred, understanding my preference is not anchored in any factual based evidence.
> 
> I am curious as to what projector you chose for your theater and how many hours were on it when it was calibrated and by whom. If you were able to achieve close to zero decrease in lumens output post calibration and yet achieve accurate color representation in your projector that truly is amazing and would love to peruse your calibration report.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The info you asking is clearly on this forum with simple goggle search....Please tell me how Epson 5050 calibrated wouldn't come out nearly the same as 5040(which i did own at one time). The only difference between the two is the chipset & refined HDR process. I've own majority of these projector we are talking about minus 5050 but i have seen it here at dealer calibrated in velvet dark pit. His calibration report was close to 5040. The 5050 is a great projector if anyone own one would be happy but sometime on here opinions start to become exaggerations. Here Cine4home review seem to say the same thing most has pointed out here.
> 
> 
> *The internal DCI filter unfortunately still costs more than 70% light, with the original cinema color space remaining around 840 lumens maximum.*
> 
> 
> *In the calibrated brightness, our test copy could not distinguish itself from its predecessor, whereby the series scattering remains to be investigated. For the calibrated n contrast values, it looks similar*
> 
> 
> 
> http://cine4home.de/epson-eh-tw9400-in-den-teststudios-eingetroffen-erste-ergebnisse/
Click to expand...

I understand you. It would just be be informative and help people on the forum judge the 5050 for themselves if you stated you had zero viewing experience with the 5050 or 6050 and hadn't owned either and didn't have them calibrated. 


Do you own any of the the new JVC true 4k projectors and if so what were your lumen output results pre and post calibration when achieving even 80 or 90% of the DCI-P3 color standard? It would once again be in context if you haven't so other forum members could understand how you arrived at your stated conclusion that the JVC Projectors were better for HDR.

IF your goal was trying to educate forum members that trying to achieve accurate colors from the 5050 while using the color filter would significantly decrease the published lumens output you could have phrased in a more accurate context. Using the color filter does significantly decrease the lumens output, regardless of whether the 5050 has been calibrated or not. Same for the 6050

That statement is a fact. 

Fortunately no one is forced to use the color filter in real world viewing, calibrated or uncalibrated. As you mentioned you can do a Google search for which projectors have more accurate colors uncalibrated since many people will not have their projector calibrated themselves or professionally. Epson generally speaking has more accurate color representation right out of the box compared with the new JVC 4K projectors. When achieving 80% or even 90% of the DCI-P3 color standard using a spectrophotometer the Epson will still have significantly higher lumens than the JVC. Only when achieving 100% of the DCI-P3 color standard does the Epson lose half of its published lumens as would really any lamp based projector, using that standard. It would have been objectively unbiased to also report that the JVC 4K projectors are actually unable to achieve 100% of the DCI-P3 color standard regardless of lumens output. It is fundamentally the color inaccuracy projector manufacturers have chosen in order to achieve higher lumens, introducing a green bias into the color reproduction in order to achieve higher lumens, which of course are required for HDR presentation. Fortunately most human eyes cannot detect that green bias in real world viewing. So by introducing that green bias you are sacrificing color accuracy for higher lumens to achieve a more pleasing HDR performance. This is true for almost all projector technology except laser based projectors. A discussion for another day. Totally different lamp source with it's own pros and cons. But I have significantly digressed. 

I think you could have couched your opinion in a a better context to more accurately convey your statement about lumen output between the JVC and Epson projectors for those less informed forum members.


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> I've been a long time 5040Ube owner. I use it alot for daily viewing. DirecTV, playing Xbox and watching YouTube and then at night watching movies. I've always been a tad disappointed with the HDR for movies as even in blacked out room it would get somewhat too dim. I was also sad about not being able to do 4k 60fps HDR on Xbox games or get the HDR signal from DirecTV 4k channel.
> 
> It sounds like this new 5050Ub fixes ALL the problems I've had with the 5040. I'm reading reviews saying the HDR is leaps and bounds what it is from what I currently have. Movies are my favorite thing to do and if this really is that much better sounds like a win.
> 
> Could I get some feedback from you guys who had the 5040 on this. Totally worth it for my applications?


Yes you will be blown away with the second generation HDR processor in the 5050/6050. Believe the hype. It's true. All of it. RIP Han.


----------



## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> What’s your room like, size screen and gain, is it white, grey or acoustic. Also throw distance from projector to screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine has been professionally calibrated and the below images are a result of this




Those pics look beautiful!!! I’ve always wanted to try a professional calibration but I have two big fears. First is that I won’t like it and I’ll offend the calibrator. Lol. Second is that something will go wrong with my projector and I’ll have to replace and then the calibration is gone. Money down the drain. 

On your calibration, did the person calibrate your 4K HDR movie settings on Digital Cinema? Did it really make that much of a difference compared to the settings you already dialed in yourself?

I believe my projector is throwing somewhere around 20-22ft. My theater room is completely light controlled in a basement with no ambient light. I even have part of the side walls painted black to try and help with the picture not reflecting too much light. I have a very basic Elite Screens Cinewhite 1.1 gain screen. I bought that screen back in 2013 when I first built the room. Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes you will be blown away with the second generation HDR processor in the 5050/6050. Believe the hype. It's true. All of it. RIP Han.




Hey Skylar. I’m not disagreeing with you but I’m not as impressed as you are. I’m curious what settings you’re using to get such a positive take on the hdr processor. Are you watching HDR movies in Bright, Natural or Digital Cinema? Curious if you came up with your own settings or if you’re using Alaric’s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> SALadder22FF said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been a long time 5040Ube owner. I use it alot for daily viewing. DirecTV, playing Xbox and watching YouTube and then at night watching movies. I've always been a tad disappointed with the HDR for movies as even in blacked out room it would get somewhat too dim. I was also sad about not being able to do 4k 60fps HDR on Xbox games or get the HDR signal from DirecTV 4k channel.
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like this new 5050Ub fixes ALL the problems I've had with the 5040. I'm reading reviews saying the HDR is leaps and bounds what it is from what I currently have. Movies are my favorite thing to do and if this really is that much better sounds like a win.
> 
> 
> 
> Could I get some feedback from you guys who had the 5040 on this. Totally worth it for my applications?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the 5040 for over two years and had the same problems you experienced as well. I upgraded to the 5050 and it is definitely an upgrade from the 5050. How much? Well it’s hard to say because I think everyone will have their own opinion on this subject. Some will find it leaps and bounds better in certain areas and others will not see a huge difference. I myself am kind of in the middle.
> 
> It fixes the issue of 4K 60hz HDR gaming which is nice, but I personally feel as though the actual HDR performance isn’t a giant leap above the 5040. Is it better? Yes. How much better? Again I think that depends on the user. It’s improved but I don’t personally feel like it’s a huge difference from the 5040. Everything else is pretty much identical to the 5040 from my perspective.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Are you stating that HDR performance isn't leaps and bounds above the 5040 even with the settings you posted and asked forum members to test out? In that settings post you seemed really impressed with the HDR performance of the 5050. Thanks in advance for your reply.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you will be blown away with the second generation HDR processor in the 5050/6050. Believe the hype. It's true. All of it. RIP Han.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Skylar. I’m not disagreeing with you but I’m not as impressed as you are. I’m curious what settings you’re using to get such a positive take on the hdr processor. Are you watching HDR movies in Bright, Natural or Digital Cinema? Curious if you came up with your own settings or if you’re using Alaric’s
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I am using Bright Cinema with medium power consumption with Auto Iris On High with preset 3. Every other setting is out of the box. I am going to try your posted settings and Alaric's settings at some point. I have now switched to the 6050 so I am unsure if that is making a difference as well. But even my wife is amazed at the images we are seeing in HDR.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What’s your room like, size screen and gain, is it white, grey or acoustic. Also throw distance from projector to screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine has been professionally calibrated and the below images are a result of this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those pics look beautiful!!! I’ve always wanted to try a professional calibration but I have two big fears. First is that I won’t like it and I’ll offend the calibrator. Lol. Second is that something will go wrong with my projector and I’ll have to replace and then the calibration is gone. Money down the drain.
> 
> On your calibration, did the person calibrate your 4K HDR movie settings on Digital Cinema? Did it really make that much of a difference compared to the settings you already dialed in yourself?
> 
> I believe my projector is throwing somewhere around 20-22ft. My theater room is completely light controlled in a basement with no ambient light. I even have part of the side walls painted black to try and help with the picture not reflecting too much light. I have a very basic Elite Screens Cinewhite 1.1 gain screen. I bought that screen back in 2013 when I first built the room. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

How far is your screen from your ceiling, floor and side walls? I know you stated you painted the walls black but black paint just like any paint, can and will introduce significant light reflection back onto your screen, decreasing many aspects of the picture quality. I am a fanatic so I have black velvet 10 ft back from screen on side walls and ceiling. That eliminates all light reflection back onto the screen and dramatically improved the image quality in all aspects: Contrast, Depth, black levels, HDR performance etc.


----------



## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> Are you stating that HDR performance isn't leaps and bounds above the 5040 even with the settings you posted and asked forum members to test out? In that settings post you seemed really impressed with the HDR performance of the 5050. Thanks in advance for your reply.




Correct. I had my settings dialed in very nicely on the 5040 as well and now that I have them dialed in on the 5050 (for the most part) I see an improvement but not leaps and bounds over the 5040. I wanted to be blown away like you have been but I’m not. I’m glad I upgraded because I was so tired of trying to figure out how to get 4K HDR 60hz and using a Linker and then that throws some of my other devices off, etc etc. 

So if I compared the settings I had in HDR on the 5040 and what I’m seeing in HDR now on the 5050, I would say overall I notice about a 10-15% improvement. Colors, sharpness, black levels look the same to me but with the new HDR slider, I am noticing better highlights in the HDR picture. Keep in mind I have a Panasonic 4K player that had an HDR luminance slider that pretty much already did what the 5050 does now so I was already getting increased brightness and highlights. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What’s your room like, size screen and gain, is it white, grey or acoustic. Also throw distance from projector to screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine has been professionally calibrated and the below images are a result of this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those pics look beautiful!!! I’ve always wanted to try a professional calibration but I have two big fears. First is that I won’t like it and I’ll offend the calibrator. Lol. Second is that something will go wrong with my projector and I’ll have to replace and then the calibration is gone. Money down the drain.
> 
> On your calibration, did the person calibrate your 4K HDR movie settings on Digital Cinema? Did it really make that much of a difference compared to the settings you already dialed in yourself?
> 
> I believe my projector is throwing somewhere around 20-22ft. My theater room is completely light controlled in a basement with no ambient light. I even have part of the side walls painted black to try and help with the picture not reflecting too much light. I have a very basic Elite Screens Cinewhite 1.1 gain screen. I bought that screen back in 2013 when I first built the room. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

In my humble opinion 

Five biggest variables for projector performance:

Room conditions 
Screen size
Screen gain 
Projector placement 
Seating distance

Obviously there are other variables that affect projector performance from unit to unit but those are very significant differentiators in evaluating performance of the same projector IMHO. My projector is 16ft from my 1.3 gain 120 INCH 16:9 Seymour Glacier white screen in a black velvet pit with MLP at 12ft.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you stating that HDR performance isn't leaps and bounds above the 5040 even with the settings you posted and asked forum members to test out? In that settings post you seemed really impressed with the HDR performance of the 5050. Thanks in advance for your reply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct. I had my settings dialed in very nicely on the 5040 as well and now that I have them dialed in on the 5050 (for the most part) I see an improvement but not leaps and bounds over the 5040. I wanted to be blown away like you have been but I’m not. I’m glad I upgraded because I was so tired of trying to figure out how to get 4K HDR 60hz and using a Linker and then that throws some of my other devices off, etc etc.
> 
> So if I compared the settings I had in HDR on the 5040 and what I’m seeing in HDR now on the 5050, I would say overall I notice about a 10-15% improvement. Colors, sharpness, black levels look the same to me but with the new HDR slider, I am noticing better highlights in the HDR picture. Keep in mind I have a Panasonic 4K player that had an HDR luminance slider that pretty much already did what the 5050 does now so I was already getting increased brightness and highlights.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I am using the Panasonic ub820 and yes that made a significant difference with my 5040 for HDR. I used the Optimizer on the panny with the 5040/5050 and 6050. I am using the slider on the Epson in conjunction with the Optimizer on the panny 820. I am blown away and my 5040 was calibrated by Jeff Meier of Accucal. Maybe that is the variable. Where Jeff had calibrated the 5040 for the most accurate color representation, becuaw that is his profession, he sacrificed some lumens to do so and therefore my HDR performance wasn't what you were seeing and now that my 6050 isn't calibrated for color accuracy I am seeing more lumens on screen and getting improved HDR performance while probably sacrificing color accuracy. MAYBE ignorance really is bliss. LOL.


----------



## jbjohn2k17

The second generation HDR processor in the 5050 is better than the 5040 that I previously owned but as others have said blacks are dependent on your room. A dark ceiling definitely helped my setup.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Nexgen76 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Opinions are just that. You seem to be stating facts about lumens output after calibration. Do you have any data points you can post that displays accurate color output of the 5050 and the corresponding dropoff of 50% of the published lumens post calibration?
> 
> There is generally some decrease in light output to achieve accurate color representation upon calibration of almost any display. You have made a pretty bold statement of fact as to a loss of 50% light output for the Epson 5050ub while at the same stating there is virtually no loss in published lumens for the JVC post calibration.
> 
> Both of those statements seem to be incongruous to my experience in real world viewing with each of the Epson projectors. I did not demo the 5050 or 6050 . I had them both in my theater. I did not have a JVC NX7 in my theater. I wish that I did so I could provide a more informed comparison.
> 
> I am just asking for you to post data on both the Epson and JVC projectors to support your statement of facts regarding the lumens output of each projector post calibration.
> 
> I was just stating my opinion about which image my eyes preferred, understanding my preference is not anchored in any factual based evidence.
> 
> I am curious as to what projector you chose for your theater and how many hours were on it when it was calibrated and by whom. If you were able to achieve close to zero decrease in lumens output post calibration and yet achieve accurate color representation in your projector that truly is amazing and would love to peruse your calibration report.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The info you asking is clearly on this forum with simple goggle search....Please tell me how Epson 5050 calibrated wouldn't come out nearly the same as 5040(which i did own at one time). The only difference between the two is the chipset & refined HDR process. I've own majority of these projector we are talking about minus 5050 but i have seen it here at dealer calibrated in velvet dark pit. His calibration report was close to 5040. The 5050 is a great projector if anyone own one would be happy but sometime on here opinions start to become exaggerations. Here Cine4home review seem to say the same thing most has pointed out here.
> 
> 
> *The internal DCI filter unfortunately still costs more than 70% light, with the original cinema color space remaining around 840 lumens maximum.*
> 
> 
> *In the calibrated brightness, our test copy could not distinguish itself from its predecessor, whereby the series scattering remains to be investigated. For the calibrated n contrast values, it looks similar*
> 
> 
> 
> http://cine4home.de/epson-eh-tw9400-in-den-teststudios-eingetroffen-erste-ergebnisse/
Click to expand...

A good article for base knowledge about the relationship between lumens output and color accuracy in projectors. 

https://mytechdecisions.com/video/need-know-projector-color-accuracy/


----------



## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am using the Panasonic ub820 and yes that made a significant difference with my 5040 for HDR. I used the Optimizer on the panny with the 5040/5050 and 6050. I am using the slider on the Epson in conjunction with the Optimizer on the panny 820. I am blown away and my 5040 was calibrated by Jeff Meier of Accucal. Maybe that is the variable. Where Jeff had calibrated the 5040 for the most accurate color representation, becuaw that is his profession, he sacrificed some lumens to do so and therefore my HDR performance wasn't what you were seeing and now that my 6050 isn't calibrated for color accuracy I am seeing more lumens on screen and getting improved HDR performance while probably sacrificing color accuracy. MAYBE ignorance really is bliss. LOL.




OMG ignorance is bliss!!! I remember the first 1080p lcd tv I ever got. I never thought about viewing angles, Black levels, contrast, color accuracy, NONE OF IT! Oh those were the good old days. Lol

I think our eyes like what they like, and our minds can make us think we like or dislike something whether we do or not. I love the 5050 and I can’t think of a better overall projector at this price range. If I was starting fresh and buying a new projector and had the chance to buy a 5040 or 5050, I would most definitely go with the 5050. For current owners of the 5040, I think it really is a toss up whether or not it’s worth the upgrade. Especially when you can just as easily buy a Panasonic 4K player and accomplish almost the same thing with the built in luminance slider. To each his own because even though I say that, I did upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. Lol. 

I can’t say that I’m completely satisfied because I don’t notice a leaps and bounds difference over the 5040 and telling people that can be very misleading. I would hate for someone to read that opinion as a true fact and then be disappointed when it didn’t live up to the hype here on the message boards. I’m not saying that to you and other people that the HDR isn’t leaps and bounds better but it was stated almost like a fact and not an opinion. 

But really, I’m still very upset that Epson didn’t include the option to use FI with a true 4K source. Just blows my mind after almost three years that it wasn’t included. This is such an incremental upgrade over the 5040 that I cannot recommend people go out and and upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. But once again, that’s just my opinion. All of us AV enthusiasts get the upgrade bug and we’ll figure out a way to justify a new purchase 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## netwebber

skylarlove1999 said:


> [
> 
> A good article for base knowledge about the relationship between lumens output and color accuracy in projectors.
> 
> https://mytechdecisions.com/video/need-know-projector-color-accuracy/


This is the claim made:



> Since green measures higher on lumens meters, this method creates the false impression of higher brightness.


I know the author is an engineer, but it's definitely not a "false impression." Green appears brighter to the human eye too, and there's more green light coming from the lamp to begin with. More green = brighter image. 

Mercury vapor lamps (the kind used in home theater projectors) have peaks in blue and green. (See attached spectrum, specifically the one in the lower right corner.) If you filter these out, you cut down light output considerably. The brightest white a HT projector can produce is going to have more green or blue light than red. This is true of lamp-based LCD, DLP, and LCoS models, as all use color filters of some kind in the light path. (3LCD, 3DLP, and LCoS split the light into RGB streams, and 1DLP uses a color wheel.) On my Sony HW45ES, I can achieve much higher contrast in the "Custom 5" color mode (designed for "maximum brightness" according to the manual) than any other mode at the cost of whites being slightly greenish.

Based on this link, I believe the "Cinema Filter" is similar to an FL-D filter that cuts out green. (It's probably fine tuned and it would be interesting to see if it resembles any photographic filter.) Using an FL-D cuts out approximately half the total light (one stop) from a standard fluorescent lamp, and probably similar for a high-pressure projector lamp. I use an 85C filter, which cuts out less overall light, reducing about the same amount of blue, but leaving more green than an FL-D. On the Sony Custom 5 mode, the 85C filter still leaves excess green in the highlights when other levels are calibrated. I can get more accurate color across brightness levels if I tweak the preset color temperature modes.

Because no modern PJ light source other than RGB laser perfectly reproduces a black-body white point (to which calibration is done), how much light you lose when you calibrate a projector (or any display) will depend on how precise you need your calibration to be. By tolerating a little deviation in highlights, you can often achieve much brighter results. 

I explain the principles (with charts and spectra included) in a post here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ettings-thread-post57931292.html#post57931292


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am using the Panasonic ub820 and yes that made a significant difference with my 5040 for HDR. I used the Optimizer on the panny with the 5040/5050 and 6050. I am using the slider on the Epson in conjunction with the Optimizer on the panny 820. I am blown away and my 5040 was calibrated by Jeff Meier of Accucal. Maybe that is the variable. Where Jeff had calibrated the 5040 for the most accurate color representation, becuaw that is his profession, he sacrificed some lumens to do so and therefore my HDR performance wasn't what you were seeing and now that my 6050 isn't calibrated for color accuracy I am seeing more lumens on screen and getting improved HDR performance while probably sacrificing color accuracy. MAYBE ignorance really is bliss. LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OMG ignorance is bliss!!! I remember the first 1080p lcd tv I ever got. I never thought about viewing angles, Black levels, contrast, color accuracy, NONE OF IT! Oh those were the good old days. Lol
> 
> I think our eyes like what they like, and our minds can make us think we like or dislike something whether we do or not. I love the 5050 and I can’t think of a better overall projector at this price range. If I was starting fresh and buying a new projector and had the chance to buy a 5040 or 5050, I would most definitely go with the 5050. For current owners of the 5040, I think it really is a toss up whether or not it’s worth the upgrade. Especially when you can just as easily buy a Panasonic 4K player and accomplish almost the same thing with the built in luminance slider. To each his own because even though I say that, I did upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. Lol.
> 
> I can’t say that I’m completely satisfied because I don’t notice a leaps and bounds difference over the 5040 and telling people that can be very misleading. I would hate for someone to read that opinion as a true fact and then be disappointed when it didn’t live up to the hype here on the message boards. I’m not saying that to you and other people that the HDR isn’t leaps and bounds better but it was stated almost like a fact and not an opinion.
> 
> But really, I’m still very upset that Epson didn’t include the option to use FI with a true 4K source. Just blows my mind after almost three years that it wasn’t included. This is such an incremental upgrade over the 5040 that I cannot recommend people go out and and upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. But once again, that’s just my opinion. All of us AV enthusiasts get the upgrade bug and we’ll figure out a way to justify a new purchase 🙂
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks for your lengthy reply. It is good to hear from someone who isn't blown away by the upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. If you didn't have the Panasonic ub820 paired with the 5040 do you think you might have been more impressed with the HDR on the 5050ub? I do agree the 5040 and panny 820 were outstanding and do come close for discs to the performance of the 5050 but many people stream through their projector and the panny is very limited in streaming support. That is another area where I think the 5050 HDR really adds the pop for HDR when streaming UHD movies and television through services not available on the panny 820 especially Vudu and Apple TV. I do think the 5050 provides a crisper more detailed picture than the 5040 regardless of content. I believe you stated the same thing. Your comments seemed to indicate you basically carried over your HDR settings from the 5040. I am sure you will be doing more testing and evaluating different settings maybe you will find the ones that unlock the 5050 HDR performance for you like you did with the 5040. I am also now using the 6050 which I believe takes the best elements of the the 5050 and improves upon them so that may be why I am so over the top for the latest generation of Epson projectors. I do appreciate that my enthusiasm may have my comments sounding like fact when indeed they are my opinion based upon my own observations.


----------



## skylarlove1999

netwebber said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> A good article for base knowledge about the relationship between lumens output and color accuracy in projectors.
> 
> https://mytechdecisions.com/video/need-know-projector-color-accuracy/
> 
> 
> 
> This is the claim made:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since green measures higher on lumens meters, this method creates the false impression of higher brightness.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I know the author is an engineer, but it's definitely not a "false impression." Green appears brighter to the human eye too, and there's more green light coming from the lamp to begin with. More green = brighter image.
> 
> Mercury vapor lamps (the kind used in home theater projectors) have peaks in blue and green. (See attached spectrum, specifically the one in the lower right corner.) If you filter these out, you cut down light output considerably. The brightest white a HT projector can produce is going to have more green or blue light than red. This is true of lamp-based LCD, DLP, and LCoS models, as all use color filters of some kind in the light path. (3LCD, 3DLP, and LCoS split the light into RGB streams, and 1DLP uses a color wheel.) On my Sony HW45ES, I can achieve much higher contrast in the "Custom 5" color mode (designed for "maximum brightness" according to the manual) than any other mode at the cost of whites being slightly greenish.
> 
> Based on this link, I believe the "Cinema Filter" is similar to an FL-D filter that cuts out green. (It's probably fine tuned and it would be interesting to see if it resembles any photographic filter.) Using an FL-D cuts out approximately half the total light (one stop) from a standard fluorescent lamp, and probably similar for a high-pressure projector lamp. I use an 85C filter, which cuts out less overall light, reducing about the same amount of blue, but leaving more green than an FL-D. On the Sony Custom 5 mode, the 85C filter still leaves excess green in the highlights when other levels are calibrated. I can get more accurate color across brightness levels if I tweak the preset color temperature modes.
> 
> Because no modern PJ light source other than RGB laser perfectly reproduces a black-body white point (to which calibration is done), how much light you lose when you calibrate a projector (or any display) will depend on how precise you need your calibration to be. By tolerating a little deviation in highlights, you can often achieve much brighter results.
> 
> I explain the principles (with charts and spectra included) in a post here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ettings-thread-post57931292.html#post57931292
Click to expand...

Netwebber I agree it was a poor choice of words by the author. It is a real result of introducing green that actually increases the lumens. I agree that the color deviation by adding some green is a worthwhile sacrifice for increased brightness. You supported that much more eloquently with the link to the post you wrote. Thank you for doing so.


----------



## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thanks for your lengthy reply. It is good to hear from someone who isn't blown away by the upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. If you didn't have the Panasonic ub820 paired with the 5040 do you think you might have been more impressed with the HDR on the 5050ub? I do agree the 5040 and panny 820 were outstanding and do come close for discs to the performance of the 5050 but many people stream through their projector and the panny is very limited in streaming support. That is another area where I think the 5050 HDR really adds the pop for HDR when streaming UHD movies and television through services not available on the panny 820 especially Vudu and Apple TV. I do think the 5050 provides a crisper more detailed picture than the 5040 regardless of content. I believe you stated the same thing. Your comments seemed to indicate you basically carried over your HDR settings from the 5040. I am sure you will be doing more testing and evaluating different settings maybe you will find the ones that unlock the 5050 HDR performance for you like you did with the 5040. I am also now using the 6050 which I believe takes the best elements of the the 5050 and improves upon them so that may be why I am so over the top for the latest generation of Epson projectors. I do appreciate that my enthusiasm may have my comments sounding like fact when indeed they are my opinion based upon my own observations.




That’s a really good point! I think if I didn’t have the Panasonic with the luminance slider that I probably would be more impressed overall with the HDR improvement on the 5050. It just worked so damn good that by the time I upped the hdr slider on the 5050, I had to back it down on my Panasonic to 0 again and I feel like I just ended up where I was before with my 5040. Lol. You’re absolutely right though about how the Panasonic could only help 4K discs and some streaming apps. Anything else would lose that extra HDR brightness. It is nice to have that available now for any HDR source including games. 

I will say that I think I’ve noticed that the picture is overall a little crisper. I think a major factor for that is when Epson sent me a replacement 5050 and the focus was leaps and bounds better than the first 5050 I had. See what I did there  Seriously though, I think getting a perfectly or close to perfectly focused projector makes all the difference too. I was very disappointed with my first 5050. But as usual, Epson was amazingly helpful and quick to send me a replacement. 

I know there’s more tweaking I have to do before I can give my final judgement on the Epson 5050. If I had to rate the 5040 I would give it a solid 8. Right now I would give the 5050 a well deserved 9. We’ll see though. That could go up even more once I get this sucker dialed in for HDR movies and gaming. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AudioFan810

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am using the Panasonic ub820 and yes that made a significant difference with my 5040 for HDR. I used the Optimizer on the panny with the 5040/5050 and 6050. I am using the slider on the Epson in conjunction with the Optimizer on the panny 820. I am blown away and my 5040 was calibrated by Jeff Meier of Accucal. Maybe that is the variable. Where Jeff had calibrated the 5040 for the most accurate color representation, becuaw that is his profession, he sacrificed some lumens to do so and therefore my HDR performance wasn't what you were seeing and now that my 6050 isn't calibrated for color accuracy I am seeing more lumens on screen and getting improved HDR performance while probably sacrificing color accuracy. MAYBE ignorance really is bliss. LOL.


Hi skylarlove1999,

Interesting, just thought something similar! I have been reading the comments of several folks and starting thinking back to my old neighborhood where there was 7-8 home theaters within a few blocks of my house. Even though many had the old 1080UBs shortly after they came out, there was a wide range in how the pictures looked and how each owner liked it. Some liked their projectors professionally calibrated, which generally improved the colors and the contrast...but at a significant lost of light output. Others tweaked their controls to improve their picture, but preferred more light output, even if they couldn't get the color purity or black floors that was possible, as long as the colors and contrast looked good to them. Understand, this wasn't an issue of cost or ignorance, because folks easily had the money and were looking at everyone else's HT setup. This was simply preference in how the picture looked.


----------



## SALadder22FF

JewDaddy said:


> OMG ignorance is bliss!!! I remember the first 1080p lcd tv I ever got. I never thought about viewing angles, Black levels, contrast, color accuracy, NONE OF IT! Oh those were the good old days. Lol
> 
> I think our eyes like what they like, and our minds can make us think we like or dislike something whether we do or not. I love the 5050 and I can’t think of a better overall projector at this price range. If I was starting fresh and buying a new projector and had the chance to buy a 5040 or 5050, I would most definitely go with the 5050. For current owners of the 5040, I think it really is a toss up whether or not it’s worth the upgrade. Especially when you can just as easily buy a Panasonic 4K player and accomplish almost the same thing with the built in luminance slider. To each his own because even though I say that, I did upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. Lol.
> 
> I can’t say that I’m completely satisfied because I don’t notice a leaps and bounds difference over the 5040 and telling people that can be very misleading. I would hate for someone to read that opinion as a true fact and then be disappointed when it didn’t live up to the hype here on the message boards. I’m not saying that to you and other people that the HDR isn’t leaps and bounds better but it was stated almost like a fact and not an opinion.
> 
> But really, I’m still very upset that Epson didn’t include the option to use FI with a true 4K source. Just blows my mind after almost three years that it wasn’t included. This is such an incremental upgrade over the 5040 that I cannot recommend people go out and and upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. But once again, that’s just my opinion. All of us AV enthusiasts get the upgrade bug and we’ll figure out a way to justify a new purchase
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think the added 4K 60Hz with HDR for Xbox One X and the added support for over the air HDR like from DirecTV in addition to me not having that panasonic player and not having my 5040 calibrated professionally makes a good case for upgrading. Is the 5050 the same dimensions as 5040...so that I could unscrew it from the mount and pop it on the new one?


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> JewDaddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> OMG ignorance is bliss!!! I remember the first 1080p lcd tv I ever got. I never thought about viewing angles, Black levels, contrast, color accuracy, NONE OF IT! Oh those were the good old days. Lol
> 
> I think our eyes like what they like, and our minds can make us think we like or dislike something whether we do or not. I love the 5050 and I can’t think of a better overall projector at this price range. If I was starting fresh and buying a new projector and had the chance to buy a 5040 or 5050, I would most definitely go with the 5050. For current owners of the 5040, I think it really is a toss up whether or not it’s worth the upgrade. Especially when you can just as easily buy a Panasonic 4K player and accomplish almost the same thing with the built in luminance slider. To each his own because even though I say that, I did upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. Lol.
> 
> I can’t say that I’m completely satisfied because I don’t notice a leaps and bounds difference over the 5040 and telling people that can be very misleading. I would hate for someone to read that opinion as a true fact and then be disappointed when it didn’t live up to the hype here on the message boards. I’m not saying that to you and other people that the HDR isn’t leaps and bounds better but it was stated almost like a fact and not an opinion.
> 
> But really, I’m still very upset that Epson didn’t include the option to use FI with a true 4K source. Just blows my mind after almost three years that it wasn’t included. This is such an incremental upgrade over the 5040 that I cannot recommend people go out and and upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. But once again, that’s just my opinion. All of us AV enthusiasts get the upgrade bug and we’ll figure out a way to justify a new purchase 🙂
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I think the added 4K 60Hz with HDR for Xbox One X and the added support for over the air HDR like from DirecTV in addition to me not having that panasonic player and not having my 5040 calibrated professionally makes a good case for upgrading. Is the 5050 the same dimensions as 5040...so that I could unscrew it from the mount and pop it on the new one?[/QUOTE
> 
> Same exact dimensions and mounting pattern as the 5040. You can absolutely unscrew the 5040 and replace it with the 5050.
Click to expand...


----------



## Solarium

skylarlove1999 said:


> HDR improvement is 200% honestly if not more. Black level, contrast, depth, sharpness and resolution I would say about 25%. Black level increase would be only about 10% but then again the black levels were really good on the 5040 already.
> 
> I have not seen the X790R but I have seen the JVC NX7 and NX5. I would take the 5050 over the NX5 due to better HDR IMHO. NX5 was noticeably sharper and more detailed but not amazingly so. I sit at 12 ft as was the demo. The NX7 blew me away in almost every respect as did the 6050. I would need a side by side to compare to which one throws a better image. I was just too in awe of each to be objective. I have had the 6050 for three days now and each 4K disc has me dropping my jaw. This is the end of Infinity War on my 6050 from 12 ft back. Blacked out theater with black masking panels on a 120 inch 16:9 Seymour Glacier White screen.


Wow that's a pretty massive improvement and something that warrants the price. You convinced me with the 5050UB  I think it'll do better than the X790R for me particularly just because it will be placed in a relatively light-uncontrolled large living room, which is connected to the back yard and kitchen. Even though we have a curtain that we can close up during the day, it's hardly ever closed so there will be quite a bit of ambient light flooding in. The brightness factor is pretty huge for daytime watching, as this projector will be used instead of a TV. We are going to display it on a 135" screen mounted on the wall from about 13'4" away, possibly need to get one that helps with ambient light, sitting away about 15 feet.


----------



## skylarlove1999

I think the added 4K 60Hz with HDR for Xbox One X and the added support for over the air HDR like from DirecTV in addition to me not having that panasonic player and not having my 5040 calibrated professionally makes a good case for upgrading. Is the 5050 the same dimensions as 5040...so that I could unscrew it from the mount and pop it on the new one?[/QUOTE]

Absolutely same chassis and mounting pattern as the 5040. Unscrew 5040 and pop on the 5050. Sit back and enjoy the show.


----------



## Solarium

JewDaddy said:


> I had the 5040 for over two years and had the same problems you experienced as well. I upgraded to the 5050 and it is definitely an upgrade from the 5050. How much? Well it’s hard to say because I think everyone will have their own opinion on this subject. Some will find it leaps and bounds better in certain areas and others will not see a huge difference. I myself am kind of in the middle.
> 
> It fixes the issue of 4K 60hz HDR gaming which is nice, but I personally feel as though the actual HDR performance isn’t a giant leap above the 5040. Is it better? Yes. How much better? Again I think that depends on the user. It’s improved but I don’t personally feel like it’s a huge difference from the 5040. Everything else is pretty much identical to the 5040 from my perspective.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hmm, makes me think of getting a refurb 5040UB right now for $1150, then upgrade again 2 years later to something better. The difference doesn't sound like THAT much.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Solarium said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> HDR improvement is 200% honestly if not more. Black level, contrast, depth, sharpness and resolution I would say about 25%. Black level increase would be only about 10% but then again the black levels were really good on the 5040 already.
> 
> I have not seen the X790R but I have seen the JVC NX7 and NX5. I would take the 5050 over the NX5 due to better HDR IMHO. NX5 was noticeably sharper and more detailed but not amazingly so. I sit at 12 ft as was the demo. The NX7 blew me away in almost every respect as did the 6050. I would need a side by side to compare to which one throws a better image. I was just too in awe of each to be objective. I have had the 6050 for three days now and each 4K disc has me dropping my jaw. This is the end of Infinity War on my 6050 from 12 ft back. Blacked out theater with black masking panels on a 120 inch 16:9 Seymour Glacier White screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow that's a pretty massive improvement and something that warrants the price. You convinced me with the 5050UB /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif I think it'll do better than the X790R for me particularly just because it will be placed in a relatively light-uncontrolled large living room, which is connected to the back yard and kitchen. Even though we have a curtain that we can close up during the day, it's hardly ever closed so there will be quite a bit of ambient light flooding in. The brightness factor is pretty huge for daytime watching, as this projector will be used instead of a TV. We are going to display it on a 135" screen mounted on the wall from about 13'4" away, possibly need to get one that helps with ambient light, sitting away about 15 feet.
Click to expand...

I would think an ambient light rejecting screen of some kind would be best under the lighting conditions you described. The ALR screen will improve contrast and black levels under those conditions. You will most likely give up some color neutrality with an ALR screen. If possible in your area I would try to find a dealer with your room conditions ideally using an Epson 5050 paired with an ambient light rejecting screen so you can see for yourself if it is a good pairing. I have every belief that it would be in most picture modes given its 2600 lumens.


----------



## asolor78

Luminated67 said:


> JewDaddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey everyone! I’ve been working on dialing in HDR 4K movie settings and I feel like I finally got them where they look fantastic! I’ve tried Alaric’s Bright and Digital Cinema. They both have things I like and dislike about them. However, I keep finding myself going back to the settings I’ve dialed in myself. I feel like they’re a good balance of both of his bright and digital cinema settings. Would love some feedback if anyone wants to try them out. Let me know!
> 
> Color Mode - Natural
> Brightness - 48
> Contrast - 43
> Color Saturation - 56
> Tint - 50
> Sharpness - 5,5,5
> Color Temp - 7000K
> Skin Tone - 3
> Custom - 46,49,52,45,50,52
> Grayscale
> Adjustment 8 0,0-1
> Adjustment 7 -2,0,0
> Adjustment 6 -1,1,0
> Adjustment 5 -1,-2,-2
> Adjustment 4 -1,0,1
> Adjustment 3 -2,-2,0
> Adjustment 2 0,0,0
> Adjustment 1 0,0,0
> Image Enhancement - Preset 2
> Gamma -2
> Did not adjust RGBCMY
> Lens Iris 0
> Power Consumption - High
> Auto Iris - High
> Video Range - Auto
> EDID - Expanded
> Image Processing - Fine
> HDR10 Setting - 5
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> What’s your room like, size screen and gain, is it white, grey or acoustic. Also throw distance from projector to screen.
> 
> Mine has been professionally calibrated and the below images are a result of this
Click to expand...


Wow, @Luminated67 i must admit ur images are magazine quality.. that from and iphone x?...Im a novice home theater owner.. (using my insulated ac mini split garage as my home theater).. and have only put in about 8hrs into my epson.. i admire your calibrated image when would u recommend calibrating.. i always hear 200hrs.. but wondering if that is best?...also are those calibrated images with digital cinema or bright... Ill be crass and ask if u could share ur calibrations setting.. but im sure u paid a pretty penny.. just wondering if calibration came with several settings..i have several with diferent color temps..for sports like it in a more cooler tone.. cinema ...gaming.....just wondering if i get calibration would professional calibrator be awar that accuracy is great for cinema but live tv sports is a bit different
@JewDaddy will try ur settings for ps4 hdr gameplay.. hdr slider is such an interesting option.. because in game video brightness option can help or over brighten image i found myself toning down hdr to a 9 or 10... I could tell when sun beeming of an oiler tank in blackout was overly bright.. but then game light output looked to dim... Still figuring things out i guess


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your lengthy reply. It is good to hear from someone who isn't blown away by the upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050. If you didn't have the Panasonic ub820 paired with the 5040 do you think you might have been more impressed with the HDR on the 5050ub? I do agree the 5040 and panny 820 were outstanding and do come close for discs to the performance of the 5050 but many people stream through their projector and the panny is very limited in streaming support. That is another area where I think the 5050 HDR really adds the pop for HDR when streaming UHD movies and television through services not available on the panny 820 especially Vudu and Apple TV. I do think the 5050 provides a crisper more detailed picture than the 5040 regardless of content. I believe you stated the same thing. Your comments seemed to indicate you basically carried over your HDR settings from the 5040. I am sure you will be doing more testing and evaluating different settings maybe you will find the ones that unlock the 5050 HDR performance for you like you did with the 5040. I am also now using the 6050 which I believe takes the best elements of the the 5050 and improves upon them so that may be why I am so over the top for the latest generation of Epson projectors. I do appreciate that my enthusiasm may have my comments sounding like fact when indeed they are my opinion based upon my own observations.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That’s a really good point! I think if I didn’t have the Panasonic with the luminance slider that I probably would be more impressed overall with the HDR improvement on the 5050. It just worked so damn good that by the time I upped the hdr slider on the 5050, I had to back it down on my Panasonic to 0 again and I feel like I just ended up where I was before with my 5040. Lol. You’re absolutely right though about how the Panasonic could only help 4K discs and some streaming apps. Anything else would lose that extra HDR brightness. It is nice to have that available now for any HDR source including games.
> 
> I will say that I think I’ve noticed that the picture is overall a little crisper. I think a major factor for that is when Epson sent me a replacement 5050 and the focus was leaps and bounds better than the first 5050 I had. See what I did there 🙂 Seriously though, I think getting a perfectly or close to perfectly focused projector makes all the difference too. I was very disappointed with my first 5050. But as usual, Epson was amazingly helpful and quick to send me a replacement.
> 
> I know there’s more tweaking I have to do before I can give my final judgement on the Epson 5050. If I had to rate the 5040 I would give it a solid 8. Right now I would give the 5050 a well deserved 9. We’ll see though. That could go up even more once I get this sucker dialed in for HDR movies and gaming.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...




Solarium said:


> JewDaddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had the 5040 for over two years and had the same problems you experienced as well. I upgraded to the 5050 and it is definitely an upgrade from the 5050. How much? Well it’s hard to say because I think everyone will have their own opinion on this subject. Some will find it leaps and bounds better in certain areas and others will not see a huge difference. I myself am kind of in the middle.
> 
> It fixes the issue of 4K 60hz HDR gaming which is nice, but I personally feel as though the actual HDR performance isn’t a giant leap above the 5040. Is it better? Yes. How much better? Again I think that depends on the user. It’s improved but I don’t personally feel like it’s a huge difference from the 5040. Everything else is pretty much identical to the 5040 from my perspective.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, makes me think of getting a refurb 5040UB right now for $1150, then upgrade again 2 years later to something better. The difference doesn't sound like THAT much.
Click to expand...

Solarium you may want to read JewDaddys further comments about comparing the 5040 to the 5050 in regards to performance if you were to remove the Panny 820 benefit on the performance of the 5040. I would strongly argue that the majority of the 5040's HDR performance is directly related to the panny 820 and it's own HDR OPTIMIZER not the 5040. If you really only watch 4k movies on disc I would say you could get 80 to 85% of the 5050 HDR performance by pairing the 5040 with the panny 820. That adds roughly $500 to the cost of the 5040 and only gets you that similar HDR performance on some limited streaming apps supported by the panny 820 and on 4k discs. Where the 5050 will give you great HDR performance on any source that supports HDR. Certainly only you can determine which would be be best for you given the source and content you view most of the time.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

Playing with the HDR slider. 


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Playing with the HDR slider.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for sharing they both are really good images. I prefer the bottom image it seems to have a little better contrast a little lower black floor and a little better spectral highlights just my humble opinion LOL


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## CallingMrBenzo

I do as well. That’s Alaric’s HDR accurate settings in ECO mode I don’t recall 100% but think slider was at 4 in top and 6 in bottom image. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I do as well. That’s Alaric’s HDR accurate settings in ECO mode I don’t recall 100% but think slider was at 4 in top and 6 in bottom image.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Cool!! I hope to get around to using his settings but I'm sure like you you really want to watch a movie since it looks so amazing LOL I'm currently watching Star Trek from 2009 and it looking outstanding on my 6050


----------



## netwebber

skylarlove1999 said:


> Netwebber I agree it was a poor choice of words by the author. It is a real result of introducing green that actually increases the lumens. I agree that the color deviation by adding some green is a worthwhile sacrifice for increased brightness. You supported that much more eloquently with the link to the post you wrote. Thank you for doing so.


You're welcome. I don't even have a 5050/6050UB, but I enjoyed the demo earlier this week and have been following this thread.

To be precise, what makes the image brighter is allowing more green light through that's already there, not really "introducing it." The lamp has a specific spectrum (which varies on power, age, and manufacturing variations), and getting proper color balance means filtering through red, green, and blue filters and then recombining them properly. 

We usually think about filters as a way to change the color of an image, but you can't use a filter to introduce a color that wasn't there to begin with (this is how red/blue anaglyph 3D works - you can't see the blue part of the image through the red filter and vice versa). That's why PJ lamps need high pressure -- standard mercury vapor lamps produce only violet, green, and some orange light. Orange light is not red light plus yellow light; it's just orange light, and mercury vapor lamps produce no red at standard pressure. Higher pressure causes the gas in the bulb to release a wider spectrum of colors, including red. 

In the DCI-P3 color space, the primaries are at or near 467.1nm, 546nm, and 615nm for blue, green, and red, respectively. In contrast (no pun intended), the sRGB color space has its primaries at/near 467.1nm for blue, 532nm for green, and 630nm for red. The highest intensity frequencies in PJ lamps are at 405nm, 436nm, and 546nm. Because the peak of the PJ lamp is close to the DCI-P3 green primary, and because the 6500K white point is further from the DCI-P3 primary than it is in the sRGB gamut, you need to block more green light (and thus even more light overall) to balance with red and blue for proper whites. 

Xenon arc lamps (the kind in commercial theaters) have a spectrum much closer to daylight, but still have spectral peaks that need to be evened out. The brightness is limited by heavy, fragile bulbs with limited lifespans.

Laser projection addresses these issues (balance of primaries and overall brightness) by using near-monochromatic light. In the case of a 3P (three primary) laser system, there are separate red, blue, and green lasers, each tuned to be close to the appropriate primary (separately but not quite independently, as the green and red primaries aren't completely monochromatic). The intensity of the individual lasers can be raised or lowered by adjusting the power, and the wavelength is always the same (doesn't change with age, temperature, or other conditions). HT projectors with a laser light engine use one blue laser to produce blue and also illuminate red and green phosphors, which then pass through/reflect off the imaging chip (DLP, LCD, or LCoS) and are recombined into the projected image. You can get good gamut coverage by using the appropriate phosphors, and brightness is limited only by the efficiency and chemical properties of those phosphors. 

Lasers can be made arbitrarily bright by adding more laser diodes, as long as there's enough power and cooling. 3P laser light engines thus have no theoretical maximum brightness. It remains to be seen whether compact, efficient 3P laser projectors or giant microLED panels are going to become affordable first. Both will be awesome for home theater.


----------



## skylarlove1999

netwebber said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Netwebber I agree it was a poor choice of words by the author. It is a real result of introducing green that actually increases the lumens. I agree that the color deviation by adding some green is a worthwhile sacrifice for increased brightness. You supported that much more eloquently with the link to the post you wrote. Thank you for doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome. I don't even have a 5050/6050UB, but I enjoyed the demo earlier this week and have been following this thread.
> 
> To be precise, what makes the image brighter is allowing more green light through that's already there, not really "introducing it." The lamp has a specific spectrum (which varies on power, age, and manufacturing variations), and getting proper color balance means filtering through red, green, and blue filters and then recombining them properly.
> 
> We usually think about filters as a way to change the color of an image, but you can't use a filter to introduce a color that wasn't there to begin with (this is how red/blue anaglyph 3D works - you can't see the blue part of the image through the red filter and vice versa). That's why PJ lamps need high pressure -- standard mercury vapor lamps produce only violet, green, and some orange light. Orange light is not red light plus yellow light; it's just orange light, and mercury vapor lamps produce no red at standard pressure. Higher pressure causes the gas in the bulb to release a wider spectrum of colors, including red.
> 
> In the DCI-P3 color space, the primaries are at or near 467.1nm, 546nm, and 615nm for blue, green, and red, respectively. In contrast (no pun intended), the sRGB color space has its primaries at/near 467.1nm for blue, 532nm for green, and 630nm for red. The highest intensity frequencies in PJ lamps are at 405nm, 436nm, and 546nm. Because the peak of the PJ lamp is close to the DCI-P3 green primary, and because the 6500K white point is further from the DCI-P3 primary than it is in the sRGB gamut, you need to block more green light (and thus even more light overall) to balance with red and blue for proper whites.
> 
> Xenon arc lamps (the kind in commercial theaters) have a spectrum much closer to daylight, but still have spectral peaks that need to be evened out. The brightness is limited by heavy, fragile bulbs with limited lifespans.
> 
> Laser projection addresses these issues (balance of primaries and overall brightness) by using near-monochromatic light. In the case of a 3P (three primary) laser system, there are separate red, blue, and green lasers, each tuned to be close to the appropriate primary (separately but not quite independently, as the green and red primaries aren't completely monochromatic). The intensity of the individual lasers can be raised or lowered by adjusting the power, and the wavelength is always the same (doesn't change with age, temperature, or other conditions). HT projectors with a laser light engine use one blue laser to produce blue and also illuminate red and green phosphors, which then pass through/reflect off the imaging chip (DLP, LCD, or LCoS) and are recombined into the projected image. You can get good gamut coverage by using the appropriate phosphors, and brightness is limited only by the efficiency and chemical properties of those phosphors.
> 
> Lasers can be made arbitrarily bright by adding more laser diodes, as long as there's enough power and cooling. 3P laser light engines thus have no theoretical maximum brightness. It remains to be seen whether compact, efficient 3P laser projectors or giant microLED panels are going to become affordable first. Both will be awesome for home theater.
Click to expand...

You taught me more about lumens, color and lamp/laser technology in one post then 10 years really exploring this projector and home theater hobby. Thank you once again for taking the time to break it down in a way I could easily understand. You have a great way of explaining complex things in a simple way. It truly is a gift. Would you happen to be a professor? Just curious thanks again. Laser will be the game change for HDR in a projector but the cost will be prohibitive until more people give up their televisions and use a projector so quantity can help reduce individual acquisition cost.


----------



## rustolemite

skylarlove1999 said:


> I think the added 4K 60Hz with HDR for Xbox One X and the added support for over the air HDR like from DirecTV in addition to me not having that panasonic player and not having my 5040 calibrated professionally makes a good case for upgrading. Is the 5050 the same dimensions as 5040...so that I could unscrew it from the mount and pop it on the new one?


Absolutely same chassis and mounting pattern as the 5040. Unscrew 5040 and pop on the 5050. Sit back and enjoy the show.[/QUOTE]

Just wanted to say that since I game alot on my Xbox One X, that the improvement with the 5050 was well worth the cost of the upgrade.


----------



## Luminated67

JewDaddy said:


> Those pics look beautiful!!! I’ve always wanted to try a professional calibration but I have two big fears. First is that I won’t like it and I’ll offend the calibrator. Lol. Second is that something will go wrong with my projector and I’ll have to replace and then the calibration is gone. Money down the drain.
> 
> On your calibration, did the person calibrate your 4K HDR movie settings on Digital Cinema? Did it really make that much of a difference compared to the settings you already dialed in yourself?
> 
> I believe my projector is throwing somewhere around 20-22ft. My theater room is completely light controlled in a basement with no ambient light. I even have part of the side walls painted black to try and help with the picture not reflecting too much light. I have a very basic Elite Screens Cinewhite 1.1 gain screen. I bought that screen back in 2013 when I first built the room. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes he did two HDR setups for me, one in Cinema mode (not Digital Cinema) which is properly calibrated and the other Bright Cinema which is more like that of your OLED TV, very bright and highly colourful. Funny thing is that after he finished the son came in to see what was going on, of the two setups he prefers Bright Cinema but I prefer the other. The images I posted are all in the calibrated Cinema mode.

Your throw is basically double me as I’m throwing only 10.5Ft to my 100” 1.2 gain screen. You’ve went a long way to controlling the light in the room, if your ceiling is white I’d change it as this makes a huge difference.


----------



## netwebber

skylarlove1999 said:


> [
> 
> You taught me more about lumens, color and lamp/laser technology in one post then 10 years really exploring this projector and home theater hobby. Thank you once again for taking the time to break it down in a way I could easily understand. You have a great way of explaining complex things in a simple way. It truly is a gift. Would you happen to be a professor? Just curious thanks again. Laser will be the game change for HDR in a projector but the cost will be prohibitive until more people give up their televisions and use a projector so quantity can help reduce individual acquisition cost.


Wow, thanks! I'm not a professor, but I studied engineering in college and went on to practice patent law for a bit, and of course I'm an A/V hobbyist.

The concepts of lumens, lux, nits, and foot-lamberts are not that complicated, but the units are very confusing. All you need to remember is that foot-lamberts is lumens divided by square feet, and 1 foot-lambert = 3.46 nits = 10.764 lux. You then multiply by screen gain to get your final brightness.

So on a 100" (which works out to 29.7 sqft) 1.0-gain screen, a 2600-lumen projector (like the 5050UB) will produce an image with brightness as high as 87.54 foot lamberts (2600/29.7) or about 300 nits. A .9 gain would reduce that brightness by 10% (to around 79 foot-lamberts / 270 nits), and a 1.3 gain screen would increase brightness (to 114 foot-lamberts or 390 nits). Real-world figures are usually lower from generous specs, lamp aging, and light fall-off from the zoom lens. 

Lux is used mostly on equipment and not in specifications/standards you'll encounter.

As much as I like using the SI system, I find it easier just to use foot-lamberts and feet when doing calculations. 

Since we usually measure screen size in diagonal linear inches and not square feet, estimating brightness from a projector's lumen output is not intuitive (the same projector will be less than half as bright on a 150" screen as on a 100" screen). 

I may not be totally correct about DCI-P3 requiring more light filtering, but that seems to be the explanation for the filter cutting so much light, if that's accurate.


----------



## SALadder22FF

rustolemite said:


> Absolutely same chassis and mounting pattern as the 5040. Unscrew 5040 and pop on the 5050. Sit back and enjoy the show.
> 
> Just wanted to say that since I game alot on my Xbox One X, that the improvement with the 5050 was well worth the cost of the upgrade.


The upgraded HDR was enough to put me over the edge but you saying this (As I had infinite problems with the Linker trying to get around the shortcomings in that dept of the 5040) about the Xbox One X upgrade definitely solidified my decision to upgrade.


----------



## rustolemite

Have a question from those that are using the 5050, I have my 5050 set on Dynamic, and when I switch between inputs the initial picture is dim and then brightens up. 
This happens when switching between my Nvidia Shield, Dish and PC. 
Also when using the Dish DVR when I access the channel guide the picture dims then brightens it also does this then I'm using the Shield, if I leave an app and go the the home screen it dims then brightens.

If I switch to Bright Cinema I don't have these problems, so is this just something to do with using Dynamic? 
Any help would be great.

Thanks


----------



## skylarlove1999

rustolemite said:


> Have a question from those that are using the 5050, I have my 5050 set on Dynamic, and when I switch between inputs the initial picture is dim and then brightens up.
> This happens when switching between my Nvidia Shield, Dish and PC.
> Also when using the Dish DVR when I access the channel guide the picture dims then brightens it also does this then I'm using the Shield, if I leave an app and go the the home screen it dims then brightens.
> 
> If I switch to Bright Cinema I don't have these problems, so is this just something to do with using Dynamic?
> Any help would be great.
> 
> Thanks


I think you are just noticing the Auto Iris in action. In Bright Cinema and Dynamic the Auto Iris is engaged and set to High Speed so I am unsure as to why you are noticing it more with Dynamic. The iris adjusts the brightness based upon the content you are watching so my guess is that you notice it more in Dynamic based upon the switching of apps because of the information the projector is receiving and when watching movies using Bright Cinema it goes unnoticed except for at the beginning when studio branding is displayed quickly and maybe again during end credits you may notice it. Some people are more prone to seeing that dimming and brightening then others. This is why some people choose to turn the Auto Iris off no matter the picture mode being used. Natural does not engage the auto Iris at all. It is turned off. Maybe you would find that mode more pleasing to your eyes. The Auto Iris is functioning as intended.


----------



## rustolemite

skylarlove1999 said:


> I think you are just noticing the Auto Iris in action. In Bright Cinema and Dynamic the Auto Iris is engaged and set to High Speed so I am unsure as to why you are noticing it more with Dynamic. The iris adjusts the brightness based upon the content you are watching so my guess is that you notice it more in Dynamic based upon the switching of apps because of the information the projector is receiving and when watching movies using Bright Cinema it goes unnoticed except for at the beginning when studio branding is displayed quickly and maybe again during end credits you may notice it. Some people are more prone to seeing that dimming and brightening then others. This is why some people choose to turn the Auto Iris off no matter the picture mode being used. Natural does not engage the auto Iris at all. It is turned off. Maybe you would find that mode more pleasing to your eyes. The Auto Iris is functioning as intended.


Turning off Auto Iris fixed the problem, thanks for the help. I know most aren't using Dynamic but have found that for me and my screen and setup it seems to give the best picture. 
Thank you again for your input. 

Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rustolemite said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think you are just noticing the Auto Iris in action. In Bright Cinema and Dynamic the Auto Iris is engaged and set to High Speed so I am unsure as to why you are noticing it more with Dynamic. The iris adjusts the brightness based upon the content you are watching so my guess is that you notice it more in Dynamic based upon the switching of apps because of the information the projector is receiving and when watching movies using Bright Cinema it goes unnoticed except for at the beginning when studio branding is displayed quickly and maybe again during end credits you may notice it. Some people are more prone to seeing that dimming and brightening then others. This is why some people choose to turn the Auto Iris off no matter the picture mode being used. Natural does not engage the auto Iris at all. It is turned off. Maybe you would find that mode more pleasing to your eyes. The Auto Iris is functioning as intended.
> 
> 
> 
> Turning off Auto Iris fixed the problem, thanks for the help. I know most aren't using Dynamic but have found that for me and my screen and setup it seems to give the best picture.
> Thank you again for your input./forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

Very welcome. Glad that worked for you.


----------



## AlexBPM

astrobrooks76 said:


> I recently purchased my first projector, the Epson 5050. It is incredible for the money. My only complaint is that when frame interpolation is set to "off", I still notice some slight motion smoothing. All I watch is movies so I am extrememly sensitive to it.
> 
> I love this projector but not sure I can keep it if I can't get the motion smoothing to be completely gone. It bothers me to death. I want films to look like films.
> 
> Anyone have a suggestion for me? For reference I am using a standard Sony blu ray player I bought a couple years ago.
> 
> I am new here, but have been reading the site for years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


I hope this question gets answered. I’m usually a JVC snob and I buy and sell them like hotcakes, but I’m considering getting a 5050 for personal use just to change things up. I would be very surprised if there isn’t a way to turn off the dreaded soap opera effect, that would be an absolute deal breaker for me. Can anyone confirm that the reports of undefeatable motion/frame interpolation have been greatly exaggerated?


----------



## Luminated67

netwebber said:


> Wow, thanks! I'm not a professor, but I studied engineering in college and went on to practice patent law for a bit, and of course I'm an A/V hobbyist.
> 
> The concepts of lumens, lux, nits, and foot-lamberts are not that complicated, but the units are very confusing. All you need to remember is that foot-lamberts is lumens divided by square feet, and 1 foot-lambert = 3.46 nits = 10.764 lux. You then multiply by screen gain to get your final brightness.
> 
> So on a 100" (which works out to 29.7 sqft) 1.0-gain screen, a 2600-lumen projector (like the 5050UB) will produce an image with brightness as high as 87.54 foot lamberts (2600/29.7) or about 300 nits. A .9 gain would reduce that brightness by 10% (to around 79 foot-lamberts / 270 nits), and a 1.3 gain screen would increase brightness (to 114 foot-lamberts or 390 nits). Real-world figures are usually lower from generous specs, lamp aging, and light fall-off from the zoom lens.
> 
> Lux is used mostly on equipment and not in specifications/standards you'll encounter.
> 
> As much as I like using the SI system, I find it easier just to use foot-lamberts and feet when doing calculations.
> 
> Since we usually measure screen size in diagonal linear inches and not square feet, estimating brightness from a projector's lumen output is not intuitive (the same projector will be less than half as bright on a 150" screen as on a 100" screen).
> 
> I may not be totally correct about DCI-P3 requiring more light filtering, but that seems to be the explanation for the filter cutting so much light, if that's accurate.


Oh she’s a bright one alright. Like I said Gordon the pro who calibrated mine gave me two HDR modes, one calibrated and the other a Bright mode similar to that of an OLED (well sort of), the original setup he did I couldn’t deal with it was seriously burn the eye out of your head in 15 minutes, this level of brightness in a normal living room with white walls and ceiling from a 65” is fine but in a pitch black room with black walls and ceiling on a 100” screen was way over the top so he toned it down quite a bit, it’s still super bright and very vibrant just not as intense.


----------



## Viche

JewDaddy said:


> That’s a really good point! I think if I didn’t have the Panasonic with the luminance slider that I probably would be more impressed overall with the HDR improvement on the 5050. It just worked so damn good that by the time I upped the hdr slider on the 5050, I had to back it down on my Panasonic to 0 again and I feel like I just ended up where I was before with my 5040. Lol. You’re absolutely right though about how the Panasonic could only help 4K discs and some streaming apps. Anything else would lose that extra HDR brightness. It is nice to have that available now for any HDR source including games.
> 
> I will say that I think I’ve noticed that the picture is overall a little crisper. I think a major factor for that is when Epson sent me a replacement 5050 and the focus was leaps and bounds better than the first 5050 I had. See what I did there  Seriously though, I think getting a perfectly or close to perfectly focused projector makes all the difference too. I was very disappointed with my first 5050. But as usual, Epson was amazingly helpful and quick to send me a replacement.
> 
> I know there’s more tweaking I have to do before I can give my final judgement on the Epson 5050. If I had to rate the 5040 I would give it a solid 8. Right now I would give the 5050 a well deserved 9. We’ll see though. That could go up even more once I get this sucker dialed in for HDR movies and gaming.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What does the panasonic add if you have a 5050? Worth it?


----------



## Luminated67

Viche said:


> What does the panasonic add if you have a 5050? Worth it?


The Panasonic BluRay Player, not sure as to which model this feature starts but it’s their auto tonal mapping for HDR effectively doing what the latest 4K JVCs are offering.


----------



## JewDaddy

Viche said:


> What does the panasonic add if you have a 5050? Worth it?




It can add even more brightness to an HDR picture but with the new HDR slider built into the 5050, I don’t personally find it as necessary to have. I keep the Panasonic luminance adjustment at 0 now with the 5050. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Solarium said:


> Hmm, makes me think of getting a refurb 5040UB right now for $1150, then upgrade again 2 years later to something better. The difference doesn't sound like THAT much.




I can say after owning both that the 5050 does not warrant an almost extra $2,000 price difference. $500-$700 yes. Maybe even a $1,000 but even that is pushing it. $2,000? I don’t believe it’s worth it. Maybe if you’re a gamer and you really really want 4K HDR Gaming but outside of that, i don’t think it’s worth it. Unless you have that extra money burning a hole in your pocket!!! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

asolor78 said:


> @JewDaddy will try ur settings for ps4 hdr gameplay.. hdr slider is such an interesting option.. because in game video brightness option can help or over brighten image i found myself toning down hdr to a 9 or 10... I could tell when sun beeming of an oiler tank in blackout was overly bright.. but then game light output looked to dim... Still figuring things out i guess



That’s been my struggle! And every games HDR integration seems to be different. There’s not just one universal setting in game that you know where to set. I do like how some games give you a picture to reference while you adjust the slider. Assassins creed Odyssey and the 3 Remaster allow you to do that. I’ve found for me personally and the settings I use that the HDR Slider setting in the Epson is best at 5. If you can adjust your picture settings accordingly, 5 works really good with games and movies. I’m sure after more tweaking and calibrating I’ll change it again. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JewDaddy

Luminated67 said:


> Yes he did two HDR setups for me, one in Cinema mode (not Digital Cinema) which is properly calibrated and the other Bright Cinema which is more like that of your OLED TV, very bright and highly colourful. Funny thing is that after he finished the son came in to see what was going on, of the two setups he prefers Bright Cinema but I prefer the other. The images I posted are all in the calibrated Cinema mode.
> 
> 
> 
> Your throw is basically double me as I’m throwing only 10.5Ft to my 100” 1.2 gain screen. You’ve went a long way to controlling the light in the room, if your ceiling is white I’d change it as this makes a huge difference.




That’s really good to hear. I assumed that most calibrators choose the most accurate picture settings which tend to be on the dim side and then you as the customer have to just live with it. That would be nice to have two different viewing experiences calibrated. One brighter and one more accurate. 

I’ve wondered if I would benefit from getting my projector mounted closer to the screen instead of having it back so far. Does it improve the image quality?

I’ll post some pics of my theater room setup. I have black ceiling tiles in my room which I noticed helped a lot with light reflection. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes he did two HDR setups for me, one in Cinema mode (not Digital Cinema) which is properly calibrated and the other Bright Cinema which is more like that of your OLED TV, very bright and highly colourful. Funny thing is that after he finished the son came in to see what was going on, of the two setups he prefers Bright Cinema but I prefer the other. The images I posted are all in the calibrated Cinema mode.
> 
> 
> 
> Your throw is basically double me as I’m throwing only 10.5Ft to my 100” 1.2 gain screen. You’ve went a long way to controlling the light in the room, if your ceiling is white I’d change it as this makes a huge difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That’s really good to hear. I assumed that most calibrators choose the most accurate picture settings which tend to be on the dim side and then you as the customer have to just live with it. That would be nice to have two different viewing experiences calibrated. One brighter and one more accurate.
> 
> I’ve wondered if I would benefit from getting my projector mounted closer to the screen instead of having it back so far. Does it improve the image quality?
> 
> I’ll post some pics of my theater room setup. I have black ceiling tiles in my room which I noticed helped a lot with light reflection.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Put some triple black velvet on the ceiling tiles and some velvet tape on the ceiling grid and you won't have any Reflections at all LOL but seriously you won't that's what I did. I had black acoustic ceiling tiles as well but even they were giving too much reflection near the screen. I believe you stated in an earlier post that your projector was mounted 22ft back on a 135 inch screen. I would take the projector down and temporarily place it closer and do some gaming and movie watching. Maybe try 15ft. Any time you have to zoom the picture it has a negative effect on the picture quality. Especially brightness. Which is maybe why you aren't as head over heels with the HDR difference between the 5040 and the 5050 as I am. LOL. But in all honesty screen size and how far the projector is from the screen does have an impact on picture quality. Some people prefer a dimmer image so mounting the projector further back if you have a really small screen can help tone down the brightness. I have to imagine that is people who prefer SDR content. For HDR content mounting your projector closer to the screen can provide a brighter image. There are also some incremental improvements to picture quality by not having to zoom the picture as much. You have nothing to losing by giving it a try other than time and energy. LOL


----------



## Viche

Luminated67 said:


> The Panasonic BluRay Player, not sure as to which model this feature starts but it’s their auto tonal mapping for HDR effectively doing what the latest 4K JVCs are offering.





JewDaddy said:


> It can add even more brightness to an HDR picture but with the new HDR slider built into the 5050, I don’t personally find it as necessary to have. I keep the Panasonic luminance adjustment at 0 now with the 5050.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


But Jewdaddy, per Luminated, besides the slider on the Panasonic, isn't its ability to automatically set an HDR range something that the Epson can't do and that helps the picture a bunch?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Viche said:


> But Jewdaddy, per Luminated, besides the slider on the Panasonic, isn't its ability to automatically set an HDR range something that the Epson can't do and that helps the picture a bunch?




Go on YouTube and search Panasonic HDR optimizer. HDTV test with Vincent has several in depth videos on the feature and shows you how it tone maps to a specific panel.


----------



## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> Put some triple black velvet on the ceiling tiles and some velvet tape on the ceiling grid and you won't have any Reflections at all LOL but seriously you won't that's what I did. I had black acoustic ceiling tiles as well but even they were giving too much reflection near the screen. I believe you stated in an earlier post that your projector was mounted 22ft back on a 135 inch screen. I would take the projector down and temporarily place it closer and do some gaming and movie watching. Maybe try 15ft. Any time you have to zoom the picture it has a negative effect on the picture quality. Especially brightness. Which is maybe why you aren't as head over heels with the HDR difference between the 5040 and the 5050 as I am. LOL. But in all honesty screen size and how far the projector is from the screen does have an impact on picture quality. Some people prefer a dimmer image so mounting the projector further back if you have a really small screen can help tone down the brightness. I have to imagine that is people who prefer SDR content. For HDR content mounting your projector closer to the screen can provide a brighter image. There are also some incremental improvements to picture quality by not having to zoom the picture as much. You have nothing to losing by giving it a try other than time and energy. LOL


I'm still a little confused about what max zoom means. I had asked before and someone said it was whatever direction of zoom that causes the image to be bigger. What you are saying is the opposite. It's having the projector further away and using zoom to make the image smaller. Which is it?
And is it the use of zoom that causes the image to be dimmer or also the distance of the projector's light source from the screen (as in dust and atmospherics cause the light to dim over distance to some degree)? 

Also, I have read that moving the projector close to the screen can increase hotspotting and also decrease contrast ratio. True in your experience?

What if you move the projector super close to the screen but go to the Max in the other direction of zoom to make the picture as big as possible
from that distance? How does that affect light output?

Where's the engineer? I need him to break this down for me.


----------



## Viche

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Go on YouTube and search Panasonic HDR optimizer. HDTV test with Vincent has several in depth videos on the feature and shows you how it tone maps to a specific panel.


Thanks. I just watched a couple of those videos and I understand the HDR optimizer, but some folks on here have referred to the player as having some sort of HDR slider. Are they just referring to the optimizer? If so, that seems like a very different feature than what Epson has included on their projector.

BTW, Vincent made it sound like the UB 820 does not include settings for projectors in the HDR optimizer. If that's true, what settings are people using for the Epson?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Viche said:


> Thanks. I just watched a couple of those videos and I understand the HDR optimizer, but some folks on here have referred to the player as having some sort of HDR slider. Are they just referring to the optimizer? If so, that seems like a very different feature than what Epson has included on their projector.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, Vincent made it sound like the UB 820 does not include settings for projectors in the HDR optimizer. If that's true, what settings are people using for the Epson?




It does include projector setting. Don’t know when his video was made but I had the same though. Basic luminance LCD/ Projector is a setting as I use the UB-820


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Put some triple black velvet on the ceiling tiles and some velvet tape on the ceiling grid and you won't have any Reflections at all LOL but seriously you won't that's what I did. I had black acoustic ceiling tiles as well but even they were giving too much reflection near the screen. I believe you stated in an earlier post that your projector was mounted 22ft back on a 135 inch screen. I would take the projector down and temporarily place it closer and do some gaming and movie watching. Maybe try 15ft. Any time you have to zoom the picture it has a negative effect on the picture quality. Especially brightness. Which is maybe why you aren't as head over heels with the HDR difference between the 5040 and the 5050 as I am. LOL. But in all honesty screen size and how far the projector is from the screen does have an impact on picture quality. Some people prefer a dimmer image so mounting the projector further back if you have a really small screen can help tone down the brightness. I have to imagine that is people who prefer SDR content. For HDR content mounting your projector closer to the screen can provide a brighter image. There are also some incremental improvements to picture quality by not having to zoom the picture as much. You have nothing to losing by giving it a try other than time and energy. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still a little confused about what max zoom means. I had asked before and someone said it was whatever direction of zoom that causes the image to be bigger. What you are saying is the opposite. It's having the projector further away and using zoom to make the image smaller. Which is it?
> And is it the use of zoom that causes the image to be dimmer or also the distance of the projector's light source from the screen (as in dust and atmospherics cause the light to dim over distance to some degree)?
> 
> Also, I have read that moving the projector close to the screen can increase hotspotting and also decrease contrast ratio. True in your experience?
> 
> What if you move the projector super close to the screen but go to the Max in the other direction of zoom to make the picture as big as possible
> from that distance? How does that affect light output?
> 
> Where's the engineer? I need him to break this down for me. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Here is a very basic discussion of throw distance and how it affects light output and picture quality.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...e-picture-quality.html#/topics/1226740?page=2


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Put some triple black velvet on the ceiling tiles and some velvet tape on the ceiling grid and you won't have any Reflections at all LOL but seriously you won't that's what I did. I had black acoustic ceiling tiles as well but even they were giving too much reflection near the screen. I believe you stated in an earlier post that your projector was mounted 22ft back on a 135 inch screen. I would take the projector down and temporarily place it closer and do some gaming and movie watching. Maybe try 15ft. Any time you have to zoom the picture it has a negative effect on the picture quality. Especially brightness. Which is maybe why you aren't as head over heels with the HDR difference between the 5040 and the 5050 as I am. LOL. But in all honesty screen size and how far the projector is from the screen does have an impact on picture quality. Some people prefer a dimmer image so mounting the projector further back if you have a really small screen can help tone down the brightness. I have to imagine that is people who prefer SDR content. For HDR content mounting your projector closer to the screen can provide a brighter image. There are also some incremental improvements to picture quality by not having to zoom the picture as much. You have nothing to losing by giving it a try other than time and energy. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still a little confused about what max zoom means. I had asked before and someone said it was whatever direction of zoom that causes the image to be bigger. What you are saying is the opposite. It's having the projector further away and using zoom to make the image smaller. Which is it?
> And is it the use of zoom that causes the image to be dimmer or also the distance of the projector's light source from the screen (as in dust and atmospherics cause the light to dim over distance to some degree)?
> 
> Also, I have read that moving the projector close to the screen can increase hotspotting and also decrease contrast ratio. True in your experience?
> 
> What if you move the projector super close to the screen but go to the Max in the other direction of zoom to make the picture as big as possible
> from that distance? How does that affect light output?
> 
> Where's the engineer? I need him to break this down for me. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

 I knew I had saved an article about this sorry if I confused anything but this article does a really good job explaining picture quality, Zoom, and light output.

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ar...r-brightness-zoom-lenses-and-throw-distances/


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Put some triple black velvet on the ceiling tiles and some velvet tape on the ceiling grid and you won't have any Reflections at all LOL but seriously you won't that's what I did. I had black acoustic ceiling tiles as well but even they were giving too much reflection near the screen. I believe you stated in an earlier post that your projector was mounted 22ft back on a 135 inch screen. I would take the projector down and temporarily place it closer and do some gaming and movie watching. Maybe try 15ft. Any time you have to zoom the picture it has a negative effect on the picture quality. Especially brightness. Which is maybe why you aren't as head over heels with the HDR difference between the 5040 and the 5050 as I am. LOL. But in all honesty screen size and how far the projector is from the screen does have an impact on picture quality. Some people prefer a dimmer image so mounting the projector further back if you have a really small screen can help tone down the brightness. I have to imagine that is people who prefer SDR content. For HDR content mounting your projector closer to the screen can provide a brighter image. There are also some incremental improvements to picture quality by not having to zoom the picture as much. You have nothing to losing by giving it a try other than time and energy. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still a little confused about what max zoom means. I had asked before and someone said it was whatever direction of zoom that causes the image to be bigger. What you are saying is the opposite. It's having the projector further away and using zoom to make the image smaller. Which is it?
> And is it the use of zoom that causes the image to be dimmer or also the distance of the projector's light source from the screen (as in dust and atmospherics cause the light to dim over distance to some degree)?
> 
> Also, I have read that moving the projector close to the screen can increase hotspotting and also decrease contrast ratio. True in your experience?
> 
> What if you move the projector super close to the screen but go to the Max in the other direction of zoom to make the picture as big as possible
> from that distance? How does that affect light output?
> 
> Where's the engineer? I need him to break this down for me. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Last one I swear LOL I am a bit of a tech nerd who lacks the knowledge and my wife would say intelligence LOL to fully understand the nuances so I do read a lot and I save a lot of articles.

https://www.benq.com/en-us/knowledge-center/knowledge/projector-brightness-lumens.html


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> CallingMrBenzo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Go on YouTube and search Panasonic HDR optimizer. HDTV test with Vincent has several in depth videos on the feature and shows you how it tone maps to a specific panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I just watched a couple of those videos and I understand the HDR optimizer, but some folks on here have referred to the player as having some sort of HDR slider. Are they just referring to the optimizer? If so, that seems like a very different feature than what Epson has included on their projector.
> 
> BTW, Vincent made it sound like the UB 820 does not include settings for projectors in the HDR optimizer. If that's true, what settings are people using for the Epson?
Click to expand...

The Panasonic ub820 has a low light LCD / projector setting. That is just for letting the UHD player know what kind of display you're utilizing so it has a basic understanding of how many nits your display is capable of producing around 300 for most projectors. There is also separately the HDR Optimizer on the ub820 which to my understanding is actually then reading the metadata from the disk and adjusting the brightness for your particular display in real time during that movie so there isn't a lack of detail in spectral highlights and there is not a crush in your Shadow details. At least that is the concept. The third item similar to what the Epson 5050 does with their HDR slider is there an actual slider for high dynamic range in the sub menus for HDR so you can brighten it or dim it according to your own particular preference. I certainly do you think there is a great benefit in terms of picture quality and fine-tuning by still utilizing the Panasonic 820. A Panasonic 820 solely for this performance and some apps that Panasonic supports such as Netflix paired with a Epson 5040 can get close to the performance of the Epson 5050 although I still maintain that the Epson 5050 has better details better resolution and better sharpness then the 50 40. The 5050 also gives you the ability for really amazing HDR no matter what source you are using while pairing it with the Panasonic 820 and the Epson 5040 you are limited to discs and app supported by Panasonic. I hope that helps clarify a little bit at least.


----------



## MrGrimble

With a 92" screen and 9 feet distance, will that suffice for this pj?


----------



## netwebber

AlexBPM said:


> astrobrooks76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I recently purchased my first projector, the Epson 5050. It is incredible for the money. My only complaint is that when frame interpolation is set to "off", I still notice some slight motion smoothing. All I watch is movies so I am extrememly sensitive to it.
> 
> I love this projector but not sure I can keep it if I can't get the motion smoothing to be completely gone. It bothers me to death. I want films to look like films.
> 
> Anyone have a suggestion for me? For reference I am using a standard Sony blu ray player I bought a couple years ago.
> 
> I am new here, but have been reading the site for years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this question gets answered. I’m usually a JVC snob and I buy and sell them like hotcakes, but I’m considering getting a 5050 for personal use just to change things up. I would be very surprised if there isn’t a way to turn off the dreaded soap opera effect, that would be an absolute deal breaker for me. Can anyone confirm that the reports of undefeatable motion/frame interpolation have been greatly exaggerated? /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

This could just be motion blur from the LCD. Some people prefer DLP for crisper motion. LCoS are supposedly better, but my Sony has significant motion blur with Black Frame Insertion turned off.


----------



## tom0

From my own experience (as well as others in the 5040UB/6040UB thread) using HarperVision settings on 5040UB makes HDR look better than any of the HDR options provided by Epson. By "look better", I mean it is like getting a different projector. It makes HDR content look bright enough in Digital Cinema mode (with P3 filter), and highlights, mid-tones, and shadows all look great. Colors in WCG HDR video look a lot better once P3 filter is engaged.

SDR/2020 from UB820 can look even better than HarperVision, but this player cannot perform tone-mapping for other HDMI sources. With HarperVision I no longer have any issues with watching iTunes 4K HDR movies on my Apple TV 4K. They look fantastic.

Has anyone had a chance to compare 5040UB/6040UB HDR with HarperVision to 5050UB/6050UB HDR?


----------



## JewDaddy

tom0 said:


> From my own experience (as well as others in the 5040UB/6040UB thread) using HarperVision settings on 5040UB makes HDR look better than any of the HDR options provided by Epson. By "look better", I mean it is like getting a different projector. It makes HDR content look bright enough in Digital Cinema mode (with P3 filter), and highlights, mid-tones, and shadows all look great. Colors in WCG HDR video look a lot better once P3 filter is engaged.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had a chance to compare 5040UB/6040UB HDR with HarperVision to 5050UB/6050UB HDR?




When you say Harpervision are you talking about how he disables HDR but changes the color to BT2020? If that’s what you’re talking about, I remember trying his settings and being very disappointed because I thought everything just looked washed out compared to the settings I had been using. Maybe I should give it another try on the 5050


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## drober30

Quote:
Originally Posted by astrobrooks76 View Post
I recently purchased my first projector, the Epson 5050. It is incredible for the money. My only complaint is that when frame interpolation is set to "off", I still notice some slight motion smoothing. All I watch is movies so I am extrememly sensitive to it.



> I love this projector but not sure I can keep it if I can't get the motion smoothing to be completely gone. It bothers me to death. I want films to look like films.
> 
> Anyone have a suggestion for me? For reference I am using a standard Sony blu ray player I bought a couple years ago.
> 
> I am new here, but have been reading the site for years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
> I hope this question gets answered. I’m usually a JVC snob and I buy and sell them like hotcakes, but I’m considering getting a 5050 for personal use just to change things up. I would be very surprised if there isn’t a way to turn off the dreaded soap opera effect, that would be an absolute deal breaker for me. Can anyone confirm that the reports of undefeatable motion/frame interpolation have been greatly exaggerated?





AlexBPM said:


> I hope this question gets answered. I’m usually a JVC snob and I buy and sell them like hotcakes, but I’m considering getting a 5050 for personal use just to change things up. I would be very surprised if there isn’t a way to turn off the dreaded soap opera effect, that would be an absolute deal breaker for me. Can anyone confirm that the reports of undefeatable motion/frame interpolation have been greatly exaggerated?



I'll be watching for any comments on this, this too would be a deal breaker for me!

I can't believe manufactures still do this "soap opera" thing, are there people who actually like it? Anytime I've been at someones house and I see it on, I ask and the response is they don't see it or understand what I'm talking about. 

I have to believe this will not be an issue, I can't imaging Epson not giving an option to totally disable it.


----------



## tom0

JewDaddy said:


> When you say Harpervision are you talking about how he disables HDR but changes the color to BT2020? If that’s what you’re talking about, I remember trying his settings and being very disappointed because I thought everything just looked washed out compared to the settings I had been using. Maybe I should give it another try on the 5050
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


HDR is just a way of interpreting color data. With HarperVision, you won't be using Epson-provided HDR settings (gamma curves and the like), instead you are choosing your own. There is not a standard way to render HDR on a projector, because projectors are not bright enough, so it is not like one implementation is more correct than another. Epson's HDR implementation is inferior to HarperVision, at least on the 5040UB/6040UB, simply because it looks worse.

There are a few other settings you must change.

See this post:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017

You'll know when you have configured it correctly, because the picture will not be washed out. It's possible that 5040UB/6040UB HarperVision settings will work the same on the 5050UB, but I don't think anyone has tried it yet.

I found that these settings work great, and depending on the movie I adjust Brightness between 35-50 (50 is my starting point) and Color Saturation between 75-80 (80 is my starting point) as needed for a great picture.


----------



## JewDaddy

tom0 said:


> HDR is just a way of interpreting color data. With HarperVision, you won't be using Epson-provided HDR settings (gamma curves and the like), instead you are choosing your own. There is not a standard way to render HDR on a projector, because projectors are not bright enough, so it is not like one implementation is more correct than another. Epson's HDR implementation is inferior to HarperVision, at least on the 5040UB/6040UB, simply because it looks worse.
> 
> 
> 
> There are a few other settings you must change.
> 
> 
> 
> See this post:
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-241.html#post52228017
> 
> 
> 
> You'll know when you have configured it correctly, because the picture will not be washed out. It's possible that 5040UB/6040UB HarperVision settings will work the same on the 5050UB, but I don't think anyone has tried it yet.
> 
> 
> 
> I found that these settings work great, and depending on the movie I adjust Brightness between 35-50 (50 is my starting point) and Color Saturation between 75-80 (80 is my starting point) as needed for a great picture.




That is one of the best explanations I’ve heard about HDR. I honestly didn’t realize that’s what Harpervision was doing and that you can render your own way of displaying HDR. I would like to try this again with the 5050 but I guess I’ll need to wait until Dave gets his hands on one??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## drober30

Like many, I make my purchasing decision based off the many educated and opinionated posts on AVS forum. My first projector was an Infocus IN76, that was the go to projector under $3K at the time (at least one of them.) My second projector and the one I'm still using is the Epson 5010.

Allot of the conversation in this thread is whether the 5050 is worth upgrading to from the 5040 so I'm guessing that upgrading from a 5010 to a 5050 should be pretty noticeable! I know some of the new features like lens shift using the remote will be really nice!

I have been really happy with the 5010, in fact, I just got the home theater bug and started looking all this stuff up, pretty good timing seeing how the 5050 was just released!

I have a 92" CARADA screen which was the recommended budget screen that out performed its price point at the time. My screen budget is $1,200 and local shop recommended Dragonfly Thinline Ultra White.

I'm also going to sell my B&W 603s and pick up some new speakers. My B&Ws are not black and I would like to get black cabinets to match my SVS PB12-Plus sub and Salamander Synergy Triple AV furniture. I'm thinking of Focal 726.

My home theater is a shared entertainment space in my basement along with a bar area. The entire basement walls and ceilings are bright white! I do have control over the lighting and can make it pitch black during the day if I want.

So I'm looking at the Epson 5010 and a new screen. There was a time in my life that I would have been really bothered that the 5010 was not a native 4k but now I think if the picture looks amazing then nothing else matters. I will be upgrading to a thin bezel 100" maybe I could fit up to a 106" screen in my recessed wall space (seating is 10' away) I'll be painting my basement a darker color (again shared space so not black) so I'm pretty excited to think the combination of these things should have me saying "WOW!"

Will my 5010 ceiling mount work on the 5050, bolt pattern the same? I can't remember exactly what mount I have, again the one everyone was talking about at the time, it mounts the 5010 close to the ceiling, I'm sure it a chief or peerless.


----------



## Luminated67

^Dark Matt red is very popular in actual commercial cinema so might be a good colour option for the walls, one thing I would suggest is if possible going Matt black or better yet black velour for the first 2 meters from the screen wall back on the side walls and I know this might go against what you would ideal want to do but a similar 2 meters of the ceiling makes a huge difference to the black levels of your projector. Obviously you need to paint the screen wall Matt black too.

I did a similar thing to my movie room only I did it with self adhesive black velour, the picture is pretty spectacular and definitely worth the effort.










Of course I intend to paint the rest of the room Matt black to complete the look but this is purely for appearances.


----------



## oztheatre

Epson have really done well and gone with what works with this model. Forget native 4K pixels, this machine has seemingly excellent optics. They've done really well, the image it throws is superb. super clean corner to corner, very impressed with the lens in this PJ. Cleaner than some of the 4K machines I have and have had here in my showroom. 

You can have a 16K chip and if the optics aren't up to scratch, you don't have a 16K projector period. There is no point having all these fancy internals if the image can't get to the screen unhindered right? this is easily the best epson I've seen them produce. The HDR works well, the remote is responsive and well laid out too. Bang for buck projector of the year so far.


----------



## oztheatre

I can't quite remember how long the 9300 took to cool down and turn off, but this 9400 almost shuts off instantly like a laser projector. Hope the fast shut down times are normal? Thought it was strange actually, was expecting a cooling down then off period of say 10-20 seconds but it's literally 2 seconds and it's off.

Anyhoo, a couple of patterns taken with 6 year old galaxy S6. Pay no attention to the grid with the elevated centre brightness that's my phone doing that. The grid was even all the way across the screen! no light leakage either. Seriously good design this series. Because of the excellent brightness, good ansi contrast too around 480:1 I read from Ekki? and decent black levels, with HDR on top of all that, and add very nice optics, makes it a hard machine to best for the money. I would even put this image slightly ahead of my JVC X7500 which only had 2 things it did better and that was native contrast and it's not enough to really notice aside from star fields and full fades to black, (the epson holds it's own that's for sure even if it is half the JVC level or less it's enough) and then pixel size/structure, but again, at 4 metres a 130-160 inch picture is completely fine with virtually no hint of the pixel grid. It makes quite a seamless image. 

Has anyone played with the soft and hard detail settings? There's 2 others in there also. I remember someone on here at one of them set at max 20 and got excellent results with 5040 model. 

Looks like they've changed the lens? or maybe the supplier or just got better at it? But the lens is a big draw card for me.


----------



## DunMunro

Epson HC5050UB review:

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...iew-a-very-4k-capable-home-theater-projector/


----------



## skylarlove1999

oztheatre said:


> Epson have really done well and gone with what works with this model. Forget native 4K pixels, this machine has seemingly excellent optics. They've done really well, the image it throws is superb. super clean corner to corner, very impressed with the lens in this PJ. Cleaner than some of the 4K machines I have and have had here in my showroom.
> 
> You can have a 16K chip and if the optics aren't up to scratch, you don't have a 16K projector period. There is no point having all these fancy internals if the image can't get to the screen unhindered right? this is easily the best epson I've seen them produce. The HDR works well, the remote is responsive and well laid out too. Bang for buck projector of the year so far.


You sir are correct!!! Mic drop


----------



## skylarlove1999

oztheatre said:


> I can't quite remember how long the 9300 took to cool down and turn off, but this 9400 almost shuts off instantly like a laser projector. Hope the fast shut down times are normal? Thought it was strange actually, was expecting a cooling down then off period of say 10-20 seconds but it's literally 2 seconds and it's off.
> 
> Anyhoo, a couple of patterns taken with 6 year old galaxy S6. Pay no attention to the grid with the elevated centre brightness that's my phone doing that. The grid was even all the way across the screen! no light leakage either. Seriously good design this series. Because of the excellent brightness, good ansi contrast too around 480:1 I read from Ekki? and decent black levels, with HDR on top of all that, and add very nice optics, makes it a hard machine to best for the money. I would even put this image slightly ahead of my JVC X7500 which only had 2 things it did better and that was native contrast and it's not enough to really notice aside from star fields and full fades to black, (the epson holds it's own that's for sure even if it is half the JVC level or less it's enough) and then pixel size/structure, but again, at 4 metres a 130-160 inch picture is completely fine with virtually no hint of the pixel grid. It makes quite a seamless image.
> 
> Has anyone played with the soft and hard detail settings? There's 2 others in there also. I remember someone on here at one of them set at max 20 and got excellent results with 5040 model.
> 
> Looks like they've changed the lens? or maybe the supplier or just got better at it? But the lens is a big draw card for me.


Fan noise has been significantly reduced in my opinion. And yes the fan shuts down quickly after the projector is turned off. I too hope that doesn't create any longevity issues. But a fantastic projector.


----------



## TeamW-2020

*Just purchased....WOW*

Long time lurker, first post (apologies if this is too long). I like many leverage many sources for information about purchases like this. I have been waiting for a LONG time for the right projector with the combination of features and performance. Have to say..I am VERY happy with the 5050Ub. 

Old Projector (our first one) was a Benq W1070. Screen is a Carada 16x9 118" 1.7 gain screen. Area is mixed use and while light controlled, it is not a cave. Walls are matt tan, ceiling is white. For the money the Benq was a great starter unit. One lamp exploded, and we were on lamp 2. Mixed use for gaming, Roku,Bluray and 3D movie watching. Black levels were not great at all. Also there were challenges with the optic block and dust. It was driving us crazy. 

Received and Setup the Epson 5050Ub (temporarily tabletop about 17' from the screen). I am still working on screen geometry as no matter what I do, I cannot seem to get the image to align properly. There is always overscan, and the sides are always tapered. I am going to continue to work on this, but at present this is the only issue I am having. 

Did have to purchase a Fibre HDMI cable for full 18Gbps and 4k (purchased a Delong from Amazon and it works like a champ). 

Gaming = WOW! 

If you are a gamer that has been looking for large screen 4K/HDR with minimal input lag, GO BUY THIS NOW. 

Xbox1X - Forza Horizon 3, 4 are other worldly. The clarity, draw distance, performance, and HDR are absolutely gorgeous. No detectable input lag at all. When the kids were in bed I fired up some Doom..wow. Assassins Creed Odyssey etc. Again performance was fantastic. The colors. 

PS4 Pro - Horizon Zero, Spiderman, Ratchet and Clank...wow. Even my wife commented on how good it looked (and she is NOT a gamer). Color, performance are stunning. I thought DLP was the way to go...I was wrong. 

4k content - Streamed = WOW. We watched Planet Earth II streaming and the detail was fantastic. The color accuracy, the black levels etc. The image pops. We have OLED in downstairs room, and the have to say it is pretty close. We are going to start playing with the recommended settings from other forum posters to start dialing this in some more. 

I have to move our Oppo 203 upstairs to test UHD media. This is on todo list. 

Also on todo list is 3D Bluray. Glasses from Eposon arrive today and this is a VERY important must have feature. We have extensive collection of Bluray 3d Movies and 3D performance is critically important. the 5040 appeared to receive mixed reviews with comments on ghosting. Some said the auto iris was to blame. I will be testing this with multiple Blurays when they arrive. I am VERY hopeful that the Epson passes these tests. 

Overall, as someone who almost purchased a 5040 multiple times, and came even closer to purchasing a 4010 last holiday season...I am VERY glad I waited. The HDMI speed, minimal input lag, and the black level performance are all fantastic. 

The only remaining items are testing UHD performance, and 3D performance (which I have not seen commented on much if at all here), and getting the geometry to align properly. 

Overall HIGHLY recommended.


----------



## GCS

DunMunro said:


> Epson HC5050UB review:
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...iew-a-very-4k-capable-home-theater-projector/


Nice review and not surprised at his findings based on all the info in this thread from other owners.


----------



## MGBPUFF

GCS said:


> Nice review and not surprised at his findings based on all the info in this thread from other owners.


Nice review? This guy says it is a DLP projector! SMH!


----------



## Alaric

MGBPUFF said:


> Nice review? This guy says it is a DLP projector! SMH!


There's an error on the specs table, he doesn't call it a DLP!
I'd also say that there's the odd image, like in the menus that look wrong too.
However it's a big detailed review and the odd minor error happens! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> GCS said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice review and not surprised at his findings based on all the info in this thread from other owners.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice review? This guy says it is a DLP projector! SMH!
Click to expand...

The reviewer does not state that is a DLP projector. I guess you've never had to edit anything you've ever written before. Today is a great day I have met the world's first perfect person. Although that does set a very heavy burden for the rest of us people who make mistakes every day.


----------



## MGBPUFF

Of course I am not perfect and just to demonstrate that, I will overlook your excuses for a major technical error.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> Of course I am not perfect and just to demonstrate that, I will overlook your excuses for a major technical error.


Very magnanimous of you. LOL. Thank you. If you don't mind me asking are you interested in the 5050 or do you own it already? Or do you just like reading projector reviews and pointing out flaws LOL


----------



## GCS

Well I finally clicked BUY. Should have it on Wednesday.

Bought the Delong fiber optic cable from Amazon as well. Means another journey to the attic to run yet another new HDMI cable again, uggh.

Already have the Panny 820 so really looking forward to pairing these 2 up.


----------



## Gellert1

I've had my 5050ub for two weeks now. I too, bought a Delong 50' fiber optic HDMI from Amazon to run from my AVR to Epson's HDMI 1 port. Zero problems, works great.

Only thing I still cannot get, is how to view 4k/60 videos on YouTube. The Epson does 4K/30 just fine but bumping it to 60hz causes a ton of dropped frames and the picture is so choppy, as if it doesn't have the capability to render it. I have tried setting my receiver's HDMI ports to both 4:4:4 and 4:2:0 and it's the same result. There is no "pass-through" option.

Curious if ANYONE is able to confirm the 5050ub can stream in 4k/60 without problems. I use YouTube's "nerd stats" feature to confirm the resolution and framerate of videos. 
I don't game.


----------



## rbk123

MGBPUFF said:


> Of course I am not perfect and just to demonstrate that, I will overlook your excuses for a major technical error.


Ahh, the Puffster; still working on that humor thing I see. Well, hope springs eternal.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> I've had my 5050ub for two weeks now. I too, bought a Delong 50' fiber optic HDMI from Amazon to run from my AVR to Epson's HDMI 1 port. Zero problems, works great.
> 
> Only thing I still cannot get, is how to view 4k/60 videos on YouTube. The Epson does 4K/30 just fine but bumping it to 60hz causes a ton of dropped frames and the picture is so choppy, as if it doesn't have the capability to render it. I have tried setting my receiver's HDMI ports to both 4:4:4 and 4:2:0 and it's the same result. There is no "pass-through" option.
> 
> Curious if ANYONE is able to confirm the 5050ub can stream in 4k/60 without problems. I use YouTube's "nerd stats" feature to confirm the resolution and framerate of videos.
> I don't game.


YouTube through panny 820 gives 4K/60 but does look like some weird motion processing. Same thing using YouTube on a Roku ultra player. Haven't seen that with any other source so I have to assume something YouTube is doing with the signal.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> I've had my 5050ub for two weeks now. I too, bought a Delong 50' fiber optic HDMI from Amazon to run from my AVR to Epson's HDMI 1 port. Zero problems, works great.
> 
> Only thing I still cannot get, is how to view 4k/60 videos on YouTube. The Epson does 4K/30 just fine but bumping it to 60hz causes a ton of dropped frames and the picture is so choppy, as if it doesn't have the capability to render it. I have tried setting my receiver's HDMI ports to both 4:4:4 and 4:2:0 and it's the same result. There is no "pass-through" option.
> 
> Curious if ANYONE is able to confirm the 5050ub can stream in 4k/60 without problems. I use YouTube's "nerd stats" feature to confirm the resolution and framerate of videos.
> I don't game.


I do see what you're talkin about on YouTube it seems to be mostly movie trailers that have the problem some of the longer clips of nature in 4k 60 not have any problem not sure what is going on but since every other source works I have to assume it's something YouTube is doing or even something coming from the content providers that are going through youtube like the content provider 4K clips. There is definitely 4k/60FPS content on YouTube that doesn't display the picture issues you are seeing.


----------



## Gellert1

skylarlove1999 said:


> I do see what you're talkin about on YouTube it seems to be mostly movie trailers that have the problem some of the longer clips of nature in 4k 60 not have any problem not sure what is going on but since every other source works I have to assume it's something YouTube is doing or even something coming from the content providers that are going through youtube like the content provider 4K clips. There is definitely 4k/60FPS content on YouTube that doesn't display the picture issues you are seeing.


Thanks for chiming in. The problem (at least on my end) is that ZERO YouTube videos work in 4K/60 for me. When I manually change the video resolution to 4K/30 on YouTube's setting...it works great. If I can view just ONE video on YT in 4K/60, at least I'll know it's something else, besides my system, that's making those videos messed up lol


----------



## MGBPUFF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Very magnanimous of you. LOL. Thank you. If you don't mind me asking are you interested in the 5050 or do you own it already? Or do you just like reading projector reviews and pointing out flaws LOL


I'm interested, I don't usually read articles about things in which I have no interest. It is a good review and well done. It just struck me that the first call up of it showed a glaring error, thought I'd point it out since it obviously wasn't a typo, more probably blind plagiarism.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I do see what you're talkin about on YouTube it seems to be mostly movie trailers that have the problem some of the longer clips of nature in 4k 60 not have any problem not sure what is going on but since every other source works I have to assume it's something YouTube is doing or even something coming from the content providers that are going through youtube like the content provider 4K clips. There is definitely 4k/60FPS content on YouTube that doesn't display the picture issues you are seeing.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for chiming in. The problem (at least on my end) is that ZERO YouTube videos work in 4K/60 for me. When I manually change the video resolution to 4K/30 on YouTube's setting...it works great. If I can view just ONE video on YT in 4K/60, at least I'll know it's something else, besides my system, that's making those videos messed up lol
Click to expand...

Try searching Puerto Rico 4k and see if that one works for you. It is about the beautiful nature of the island.


----------



## MGBPUFF

rbk123 said:


> Ahh, the Puffster; still working on that humor thing I see. Well, hope springs eternal.


Go back to the Emo Cave, dragon prodder!


----------



## mastermaybe

skylarlove1999 said:


> Can you please explain your quote? I don't get it. Is it a building that turns into a robot?


Gosh was this great.

''I don't get it, I don't get it!"

For the uninitiated: https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/24d5dcb9-4648-4147-bfef-4ea4eceb14e0

"You just don't come into a meeting and say 'bugs'."

Bonus: https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/3a0cd723-5d76-4482-ae9f-0f9c69d2ad63

Sorry, couldn't resist. 

Hope everyone is enjoying their 50/60 50's. 
James


----------



## rbk123

MGBPUFF said:


> Go back to the Emo Cave, dragon prodder!


----------



## skylarlove1999

mastermaybe said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can you please explain your quote? I don't get it. Is it a building that turns into a robot?
> 
> 
> 
> Gosh was this great.
> 
> ''I don't get it, I don't get it!"
> 
> For the uninitiated: https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/24d5dcb9-4648-4147-bfef-4ea4eceb14e0
> 
> "You just don't come into a meeting and say 'bugs'."
> 
> Bonus: https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/3a0cd723-5d76-4482-ae9f-0f9c69d2ad63
> 
> Sorry, couldn't resist.
> 
> Hope everyone is enjoying their 50/60 50's.
> James
Click to expand...

Thank you very much kind sir. Finally a fan of either Big or Tom Hanks or hopefully both.


----------



## termite

DunMunro said:


> Epson HC5050UB review:
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...iew-a-very-4k-capable-home-theater-projector/


In the review Art asks us to try out his calibration settings but I don't see them in there .


----------



## termite

TeamW-2020 said:


> Long time lurker, first post (apologies if this is too long). I like many leverage many sources for information about purchases like this. I have been waiting for a LONG time for the right projector with the combination of features and performance. Have to say..I am VERY happy with the 5050Ub.
> 
> Old Projector (our first one) was a Benq W1070. Screen is a Carada 16x9 118" 1.7 gain screen. Area is mixed use and while light controlled, it is not a cave. Walls are matt tan, ceiling is white. For the money the Benq was a great starter unit. One lamp exploded, and we were on lamp 2. Mixed use for gaming, Roku,Bluray and 3D movie watching. Black levels were not great at all. Also there were challenges with the optic block and dust. It was driving us crazy.
> 
> Received and Setup the Epson 5050Ub (temporarily tabletop about 17' from the screen). I am still working on screen geometry as no matter what I do, I cannot seem to get the image to align properly. There is always overscan, and the sides are always tapered. I am going to continue to work on this, but at present this is the only issue I am having.
> 
> Did have to purchase a Fibre HDMI cable for full 18Gbps and 4k (purchased a Delong from Amazon and it works like a champ).
> 
> Gaming = WOW!
> 
> If you are a gamer that has been looking for large screen 4K/HDR with minimal input lag, GO BUY THIS NOW.
> 
> Xbox1X - Forza Horizon 3, 4 are other worldly. The clarity, draw distance, performance, and HDR are absolutely gorgeous. No detectable input lag at all. When the kids were in bed I fired up some Doom..wow. Assassins Creed Odyssey etc. Again performance was fantastic. The colors.
> 
> PS4 Pro - Horizon Zero, Spiderman, Ratchet and Clank...wow. Even my wife commented on how good it looked (and she is NOT a gamer). Color, performance are stunning. I thought DLP was the way to go...I was wrong.
> 
> 4k content - Streamed = WOW. We watched Planet Earth II streaming and the detail was fantastic. The color accuracy, the black levels etc. The image pops. We have OLED in downstairs room, and the have to say it is pretty close. We are going to start playing with the recommended settings from other forum posters to start dialing this in some more.
> 
> I have to move our Oppo 203 upstairs to test UHD media. This is on todo list.
> 
> Also on todo list is 3D Bluray. Glasses from Eposon arrive today and this is a VERY important must have feature. We have extensive collection of Bluray 3d Movies and 3D performance is critically important. the 5040 appeared to receive mixed reviews with comments on ghosting. Some said the auto iris was to blame. I will be testing this with multiple Blurays when they arrive. I am VERY hopeful that the Epson passes these tests.
> 
> Overall, as someone who almost purchased a 5040 multiple times, and came even closer to purchasing a 4010 last holiday season...I am VERY glad I waited. The HDMI speed, minimal input lag, and the black level performance are all fantastic.
> 
> The only remaining items are testing UHD performance, and 3D performance (which I have not seen commented on much if at all here), and getting the geometry to align properly.
> 
> Overall HIGHLY recommended.


Glad to hear your impressions! I also just became an owner for a new 5050ub and am pleased with it so far.
I'm attempting to solve an issue I encounter when trying to play Dolby Vision HDR 60fps demo clips using Oppo 203.
Perhaps you can help me narrow this down since you also seem to have OPPO203 with you.


When I play the DV 60fps HDR clips on Oppo I see on the Oppo info. screen my media is 4K60 Dolby Vision as Input.
However on the same info. screen it also shows player HDMI out is 1080p60 (12bits) into the projector.
I have a direct HDMI connection from the Oppo into Epson.
OPPO Video settings as: HDR = Forced, Dolby Vison Processing = Player-led, Output Resolution = Auto, Color Space = Auto, Color Depth = Auto.


I'm puzzled as to why oppo is sending 1080p60 out to Epson when playing these DV 4K60 clips. On the other hand when I play HDR10 4K60 clips, Oppo sends out 4k60 @8-bits into Epson. I'm wondering if my HDMI cable is the problem here as changing the Oppo output resolution setting from Auto to 4K didn't even solve the problem..
Appreciate if you could try these example clips with your Oppo, HDMI cable and see what you get. 

Sample DV 4K60 clips here: https://4kmedia.org/lg-amaze-dolby-vision-uhd-4k-demo/


----------



## oztheatre

skylarlove1999 said:


> You sir are correct!!! Mic drop


I think I have the pro model.. seems here in oz we're only getting the black model which Art says is the pro model that's $1000 more in the US? The white model here in oz will be the wireless hdmi version. We don't get the spare lamp, installation or mount though. But interestingly, Art states the pro model is getting the better lens too. I can certainly see a difference, hugh difference, from my 5040 (TW9300 here in oz just to confuse us all)

_And, an added bonus – the *Pro Cinema is getting the best lenses* from quality control, and other things, They claim better blacks (1.2M vs 1.0M to one contrast ratios, which would be slight. I think if you can use the extra’s there’s definite parity in the value propositions, so it’s which works best for you and your budget *(and the Pro, is black).*_


----------



## oztheatre

termite said:


> In the review Art asks us to try out his calibration settings but I don't see them in there .


I wish he'd do some close ups of the lens quality, CA and convergence, pixel structure etc.


----------



## Jmull22

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum but have been following this thread since it started. I know there has been some talk about the ub820 and 5050ub setup. I was just wondering if anyone had any thoughts about whether the extra $300 on the 820 is worth it compared to using a Sony x700 since the 5050ub does a really good job with the hdr tone mapping. Any thoughts would be appreciated.


----------



## dimi123

termite said:


> OPPO Video settings as: HDR = Forced, Dolby Vison Processing = Player-led, Output Resolution = Auto, Color Space = Auto, Color Depth = Auto.


Why do you have "HDR Forced" enabled? I sold my Oppo 203 more than a year ago and can't remember but wouldn't that force HDR on SDR? Try manually changing the settings on the Oppo to 2160p, 12-bit 4:2:2 output. That should solve it. Always let the Oppo upscale to 4K and not the Epson.


----------



## termite

dimi123 said:


> Why do you have "HDR Forced" enabled? I sold my Oppo 203 more than a year ago and can't remember but wouldn't that force HDR on SDR? Try manually changing the settings on the Oppo to 2160p, 12-bit 4:2:2 output. That should solve it. Always let the Oppo upscale to 4K and not the Epson.


Well from what I understood "HDR Forced" means Oppo will send the HDR data to the display regardless of if the display can support it.
In the case of SDR there's nothing to send so no harm there. For the HDR=Auto to work properly, OPPO must first "correctly" sense that
the attached display can support HDR and then only it passes any available HDR info into the display. So by setting HDR=Forced we're basically telling the OPPO that my display is already capable of handling HDR (which is true for Epson) so please pass that info without guessing. I first started out with HDR=Auto and noticed that when playing some HDR clips OPPO failed to pass the HDR data into Epson. Setting to Forced solved that problem. I'll try your suggestion to set the resolution/bit-depth/color-space all to the fixed setting you mentioned.. Thanks!


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

So I have decided to upgrade to an Acoustically transparent screen and go from a 100' 16:9 to a 115 2:35:1, I will be sitting about 10 feet away to 11 ish feet reclined. My question is on the select movies with changing aspect ratios, MI 6, Dark Knight, Aquaman etc would I just be zoomed in to my 16:9 portion of the screen and have black bars on the top and bottom and sides of the screen for those movies. It would really neuter those awesome films which is disappointing. I know for 16:9 content the screen is about 8% smaller than what I have but since the screen will be 2.5 feet closer I figured that wouldn't be a big issue.


----------



## dimi123

CallingMrBenzo said:


> My question is on the select movies with changing aspect ratios, MI 6, Dark Knight, Aquaman etc would I just be zoomed in to my 16:9 portion of the screen and have black bars on the top and bottom and sides of the screen for those movies. It would really neuter those awesome films which is disappointing.


In the absence of an anamorphic lens I would zoom in and fill the scope screen, then use the blanking option to crop the over-spilled picture above and below the screen.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

dimi123 said:


> In the absence of an anamorphic lens I would zoom in and fill the scope screen, then use the blanking option to crop the over-spilled picture above and below the screen.




Thank you sir. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## astrobrooks76

What is the blanking option? I too was curious about this issue.


----------



## GCS

How many are running this with a Panny 820? If so what settings does everyone use?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

astrobrooks76 said:


> What is the blanking option? I too was curious about this issue.


If the image is overshooting the screen you can block it out with the feature. There are some good Youtube videos showing it in action.


----------



## beastaudio

If doing mainly streaming is the 18gbps chipset pretty important? Gaming is not a priority but I wasnt sure if I even needed the 5050 over the 5040 purely for this one reason. If I am attempting YT/Netflix/amazon etc. in 4k/HDR, can I still manage this with the prior model?


----------



## JonfromCB

beastaudio said:


> If doing mainly streaming is the 18gbps chipset pretty important? Gaming is not a priority but I wasnt sure if I even needed the 5050 over the 5040 purely for this one reason. If I am attempting YT/Netflix/amazon etc. in 4k/HDR, can I still manage this with the prior model?


If I'm getting it correct, it appears you want to know if you'll need a HDMI 2.2 cable to support what you watch using a 5040 vs a 5050. Both PJ's require 18Gbps/60 hz capable cables for full function support. You may or may not have "handshake" or connection issues with your current cable and if your equipment does connect you might or might not have issues with the "lower support" signals. Not knowing the specs of your cable I can only tell you to try it and see if it works. If it has the old "Redmere" chipset it probably will not work with either PJ regardless of the signal you are trying to send as the "primary" HDMI ports on both PJs are HDMI 2.2 according to Epson. The wireless 5050 would be an option for you if you're not concerned about full support of 60hz signals, and you can always add a 2.2 capable cable later for full support. Hope this helps.


----------



## beastaudio

JonfromCB said:


> If I'm getting it correct, it appears you want to know if you'll need a HDMI 2.2 cable to support what you watch using a 5040 vs a 5050. Both PJ's require 18Gbps/60 hz capable cables for full function support. You may or may not have "handshake" or connection issues with your current cable and if your equipment does connect you might or might not have issues with the "lower support" signals. Not knowing the specs of your cable I can only tell you to try it and see if it works. If it has the old "Redmere" chipset it probably will not work with either PJ regardless of the signal you are trying to send as the "primary" HDMI ports on both PJs are HDMI 2.2 according to Epson. The wireless 5050 would be an option for you if you're not concerned about full support of 60hz signals, and you can always add a 2.2 capable cable later for full support. Hope this helps.


Thanks for the reply. The cable is fine. This is a new install so the tested and approved ruipro is what went in...my concern is purely if I even need use of the 5050's 18gbps chipset just to stream current and available content via streaming apps like those mentioned above. Does any of the content even require the full 18gbps? I know this was a gripe for some with the sonys who also just finally bumped up to 18gbps this year while the JVC's had a year head start on everyone. I only ever heard complaints tho when it game to gaming and the need for higher frame rate presentation along with 4k/HDR support, never heard any gripes around streaming things. If I can get away with the 5040 at a much lower price if streaming and sports are the ONLY needs for the PJ, then why spend the extra money for a chipset I'd basically never even use?


----------



## Viche

dimi123 said:


> In the absence of an anamorphic lens I would zoom in and fill the scope screen, then use the blanking option to crop the over-spilled picture above and below the screen.



So basically...with that setup you'll just miss the expanded footage, correct? Kind of a bummer.


----------



## dimi123

beastaudio said:


> ...my concern is purely if I even need use of the 5050's 18gbps chipset just to stream current and available content via streaming apps like those mentioned above. Does any of the content even require the full 18gbps


It depends on the steaming device and applications. 18Gbps is only needed for 4K HDR @60Hz. The 5040 displays 4K SDR @60Hz. If you are using an Apple 4K TV you can get by with an Epson 5040.


----------



## dimi123

Viche said:


> So basically...with that setup you'll just miss the expanded footage, correct? Kind of a bummer.


Yes, but the expanded footage is not always worth it as in most cases those movies are framed for 2.40:1 presentation.


----------



## beastaudio

dimi123 said:


> It depends on the steaming device and applications. 18Gbps is only needed for 4K HDR @60Hz. The 5040 displays 4K SDR @60Hz. If you are using an Apple 4K TV you can get by with an Epson 5040.


That's what I needed to know. Thank you sir.


----------



## msankadi

beastaudio said:


> That's what I needed to know. Thank you sir.


But Amazon fire stick and pc supports [email protected] and will need the full bandwidth not sure about apple tv is it restricted in the freq? 

Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## JonfromCB

beastaudio said:


> Thanks for the reply. The cable is fine. This is a new install so the tested and approved ruipro is what went in...my concern is purely if I even need use of the 5050's 18gbps chipset just to stream current and available content via streaming apps like those mentioned above. Does any of the content even require the full 18gbps? I know this was a gripe for some with the sonys who also just finally bumped up to 18gbps this year while the JVC's had a year head start on everyone. I only ever heard complaints tho when it game to gaming and the need for higher frame rate presentation along with 4k/HDR support, never heard any gripes around streaming things. If I can get away with the 5040 at a much lower price if streaming and sports are the ONLY needs for the PJ, then why spend the extra money for a chipset I'd basically never even use?


Based on what I think you are asking, the short answer is no, you don't need the 5050 to view most of your preferred source material at it's "Epson processed potential" with either PJ. However 4K is now being streamed from some sources and the 5050 has more advanced processing for that. It may be helpful to not think of of signals or HDMI strictly in terms of Gbps..which can be thought of in simple terms as how much "water can come through the pipe"...slightly oversimplified. Per my previous post, my initial concern was your HDMI as both PJs have HDMI 2.2 ports and that's what's required for handshake. 2.2 HDMI cable supports 60hz signals. If your Ruipro is 2.2 you should be good to go regardless of which PJ or your source signals. According to Epson 5040 specs, frame interpolation of 1080p is 24HZ. 

JMHO FWIW, I compared the two projectors last week with some of the same issues and user concerns you discuss. As 90% + of my viewing is cable tv or Roku sources. I much preferred the performance of the 5050 and what it did with live sports via HD cable processed in faux 4k as compared to the 5040, and of course with true 4K/HDR disc it was no contest between the two.


----------



## dimi123

msankadi said:


> But Amazon fire stick and pc supports [email protected] and will need the full bandwidth not sure about apple tv is it restricted in the freq?
> 
> Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk


The device and app has to support the native frame rate of the content. The Apple 4K TV has native frame rate support, others do not.


----------



## msankadi

dimi123 said:


> The device and app has to support the native frame rate of the content. The Apple 4K TV has native frame rate support, others do not.


Thank you for the answer i guess. I am still at a couple of levels too low in information I think and I wasn't able to comprehend what you just mentioned I thought higher frequency is always better at same or higher resolution 

~MnVn


----------



## dimi123

msankadi said:


> Thank you for the answer i guess. I am still at a couple of levels too low in information I think and I wasn't able to comprehend what you just mentioned I thought higher frequency is always better at same or higher resolution
> 
> ~MnVn


That is not the case. The native frame rate should always be kept, resolution can be higher. Here is an excerpt from Wikipedia regarding frame rates:

"Film, at its native 24fps rate could not be displayed without the necessary pulldown process, often leading to "judder": To convert 24 frames per second into 60 frames per second, every odd frame is repeated, playing twice; Every even frame is tripled. This creates uneven motion, appearing stroboscopic. Other conversions have similar uneven frame doubling."


----------



## msankadi

dimi123 said:


> That is not the case. The native frame rate should always be kept, resolution can be higher. Here is an excerpt from Wikipedia regarding frame rates:
> 
> 
> 
> "Film, at its native 24fps rate could not be displayed without the necessary pulldown process, often leading to "judder": To convert 24 frames per second into 60 frames per second, every odd frame is repeated, playing twice; Every even frame is tripled. This creates uneven motion, appearing stroboscopic. Other conversions have similar uneven frame doubling."


Okay now I understand... Is there a reason whr movies aren't shot at 60 fps? Or is there an optimal lower frame rate or technological challenges? 

~MnVn


----------



## dimi123

msankadi said:


> Okay now I understand... Is there a reason whr movies aren't shot at 60 fps? Or is there an optimal lower frame rate or technological challenges?
> 
> ~MnVn


It's mostly tradition and the fact that 60fps introduces the dreaded "soap opera effect", which is not considered cinematic.


----------



## netwebber

msankadi said:


> dimi123 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That is not the case. The native frame rate should always be kept, resolution can be higher. Here is an excerpt from Wikipedia regarding frame rates:
> 
> 
> 
> "Film, at its native 24fps rate could not be displayed without the necessary pulldown process, often leading to "judder": To convert 24 frames per second into 60 frames per second, every odd frame is repeated, playing twice; Every even frame is tripled. This creates uneven motion, appearing stroboscopic. Other conversions have similar uneven frame doubling."
> 
> 
> 
> Okay now I understand... Is there a reason whr movies aren't shot at 60 fps? Or is there an optimal lower frame rate or technological challenges?
> 
> ~MnVn
Click to expand...

Film is/was expensive and 24fps was sufficient to convey the illusion of motion while conserving film. TV and video were encoded at higher framerates because of the peculiarities of AC power (which is why NTSC is 30/60Hz and PAL is 25/50Hz). The 24fps "look" eventually became so associated with film that anything higher seemed "wrong" for cinema. 

Experiments with higher framerates like the Hobbit films haven't really been received well, but they're good for 3D.


----------



## AVpassion7

Hi, Anyone upgraded from the 5030 to the 5050 ? Are the sizes the same or is the 5050 larger? I’m about to upgrade, but wondering if I will need to take size into consideration?


----------



## msankadi

netwebber said:


> Film is/was expensive and 24fps was sufficient to convey the illusion of motion while conserving film. TV and video were encoded at higher framerates because of the peculiarities of AC power (which is why NTSC is 30/60Hz and PAL is 25/50Hz). The 24fps "look" eventually became so associated with film that anything higher seemed "wrong" for cinema.
> 
> Experiments with higher framerates like the Hobbit films haven't really been received well, but they're good for 3D.


Thanks for the explanation 

~MnVn


----------



## robl2

termite said:


> In the review Art asks us to try out his calibration settings but I don't see them in there .


From the comments underneath the article: "_Hi everyone. Yes, Calibration settings are coming. We’re transitioning our website servers, and host, but expect Eric can get his calibration pages up in a few days - they are already written. The new setup changes everyone's workflow. We’ll get it figured out soon enough. -art_"

I must say I hardly found it a review, more like a rambling about DLP vs LCD, black levels, sharpness/detail don't matter much, opinions and repeating information. I'm also surprised it wasn't really compared against the 5040UB at all, even though Art says that's been his daily driver and he's had many hours on it.


----------



## termite

AVpassion7 said:


> Hi, Anyone upgraded from the 5030 to the 5050 ? Are the sizes the same or is the 5050 larger? I’m about to upgrade, but wondering if I will need to take size into consideration?


I just did upgrade from 5030 to 5050. 5050 is larger in length and width.


----------



## donn_l

I have owned the Optoma UHD51a since last July and have been pretty happy with it as an upgrade from my tried and true Benq 1070. The only real issues I've had is the FI not being very good, but I don't use it very often anyway. And streaming HDR video tends to be a little washed out compared to discs. My 1st choice would have been to get the 5040ub last summer, but my wife surprised me with the Optoma for my birthday. Now that the 5050ub is out I'm getting antsy! Is it worth the upgrade? I'm not in a light controlled environment, but movie watching at night gets pretty dark. And again, the Optoma puts out a pretty decent picture itself.


----------



## gene4ht

donn_l said:


> I have owned the Optoma UHD51a since last July and have been pretty happy with it as an upgrade from my tried and true Benq 1070. The only real issues I've had is the FI not being very good, but I don't use it very often anyway. And streaming HDR video tends to be a little washed out compared to discs. My 1st choice would have been to get the 5040ub last summer, but my wife surprised me with the Optoma for my birthday. Now that the 5050ub is out I'm getting antsy! Is it worth the upgrade? I'm not in a light controlled environment, but movie watching at night gets pretty dark. And again, the Optoma puts out a pretty decent picture itself.


The 5040 is a light canon and the 5050 is even a bit brighter...relatively speaking...great image brightness/contrast even in uncontrolled lighting conditions. The decision is yours obviously...budget and OCD dependent of course! As a suggestion, you could order a 5050 to see for yourself. If not satisfied, return policies from i.e. Crutchfield will work in your favor. I'm betting you won't be disappointed!


----------



## skylarlove1999

gene4ht said:


> donn_l said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have owned the Optoma UHD51a since last July and have been pretty happy with it as an upgrade from my tried and true Benq 1070. The only real issues I've had is the FI not being very good, but I don't use it very often anyway. And streaming HDR video tends to be a little washed out compared to discs. My 1st choice would have been to get the 5040ub last summer, but my wife surprised me with the Optoma for my birthday. Now that the 5050ub is out I'm getting antsy! Is it worth the upgrade? I'm not in a light controlled environment, but movie watching at night gets pretty dark. And again, the Optoma puts out a pretty decent picture itself.
> 
> 
> 
> The 5040 is a light canon and the 5050 is even a bit brighter...relatively speaking...great image brightness/contrast even in uncontrolled lighting conditions. The decision is yours obviously...budget and OCD dependent of course!/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif As a suggestion, you could order a 5050 to see for yourself. If not satisfied, return policies from i.e. Crutchfield will work in your favor. I'm betting you won't be disappointed!
Click to expand...

I will double that bet that you won't be disappointed. I highly doubt you won't be blown away IMHO. I owned two 5040's. The second one was calibrated by Jeff Meier of Accucal. I thought the HDR was good until I got my 5050. Then I could really see what I was missing. HDR that rivals my LG OLED. It is that good. You can get reasonably close with a 5040 and a Panasonic ub820 but then you are dependent on discs and apps that the 820 supports. It has a Netflix app that never works. 8 months and it has never worked. So really only Amazon Prime support. Google Panasonic and Netflix issues. So many issues that Panasonic has a video about how to fix it on their website. It still doesn't fix it. Go with the 5050.


----------



## gene4ht

skylarlove1999 said:


> I will double that bet that you won't be disappointed. I highly doubt you won't be blown away IMHO. I owned two 5040's. The second one was calibrated by Jeff Meier of Accucal. I thought the HDR was good until I got my 5050. Then I could really see what I was missing. HDR that rivals my LG OLED. It is that good. You can get reasonably close with a 5040 and a Panasonic ub820 but then you are dependent on discs and apps that the 820 supports. It has a Netflix app that never works. 8 months and it has never worked. So really only Amazon Prime support. Google Panasonic and Netflix issues. So many issues that Panasonic has a video about how to fix it on their website. It still doesn't fix it. Go with the 5050.


Your posts are causing me to rethink my position. I’m pleasantly happy with the results of the 5040 and the Panny 900 with the HDR slider. The decision to upgrade to the 5050 for its superior HDR performance is relative to the cost/benefit...is it worth the difference...easily $1500 at this point. I may have to take my own advice and order one for my answer.


----------



## ArtemF

Anyone have experience with 5050 and HDR movies without Panasonic Blu-Ray player? Unfortunately, Panny player is not an option for me.

As far as I understand, Panasonic has HDR optimizer = auto tone mapping which does dynamic range compression for the target display and results in (in simple terms) automatic brightness adjustment for any HDR movie. So it's kind of set & forget functionality. The same auto tone mapping seems to be present in the new JVC projectors. How does HDR slider in Epson compare to these? Is it a set & forget functionality, where you set the slider level once for all HDR movies, or do you need to tweak it for different movies? Is it an "auto tone mapping" kind of functionality which is set once or just "HDR brightness" which is adjusted for a specific movie?


----------



## ckronengold

AVpassion7 said:


> Hi, Anyone upgraded from the 5030 to the 5050 ? Are the sizes the same or is the 5050 larger? I’m about to upgrade, but wondering if I will need to take size into consideration?


Its definitely bigger. Shouldn't be an issue unless you've got zero wiggle room.


----------



## chasiliff

Anyone come to the 5050/6050 from a JVC RS500? I currently have an RS500 in a cave/theater. The blacks on the RS500 are fantastic but the features on the 5050/6050 are sounding very compelling. 

Upgrading to the new JVCs would mean a much bigger projector, about same light output, not better blacks. Of course, true 4k is appealing with the new JVCs.


----------



## Gellert1

After owning the 5050ub for 2 1/2 weeks, I finally decided to try a 3D movie. My Sony UBP X700 kept giving me the same error over and over, saying the projector wasn't a 3D device.
After a lengthy call to Epson's tech support, they couldn't fix the problem either.

However, I did find out how to correct the problem and I'm letting everyone else know (that owns the same player).

You absolutely MUST disable/uncheck the Sony's HDR/DolbyVision setting to watch any 3D Blu-ray. When it's set to on/auto, the Epson doesn't recognize the 3D signal, thus giving you the error message.

Had I known this, I would have saved myself about 2 hours of troubleshooting time and saved my family's Movie Night (Jaws 3D). Ughhh.

Hope this helps somebody, someday.


----------



## ArtemF

Found an answer to my question above about HDR auto tone mapping, from the ProjectorReviews.com:


> Tone mapping HDR – You can now adjust the tone mapping on this Epson, with a series of 16 settings, which tend to either lighten or dim the mid and lower mid ranges. With the default setting of 8, most HDR content looks great, I would say as well balanced as most of those higher end Sonys, which I have been extremely impressed with for their HDR handling.


So it seems Epson indeed employs tone mapping similar to HDR optimizer in Panny players, while HDR slider is additional brightness tweaking of the HDR image. From the review, it seems you rarely have to tweak the HDR slider on Epson, while the Panasonic's HDR optimizer seems to be "smarter" and produces good brightness without tweaking at all (?).


----------



## ckronengold

Gellert said:


> Had I known this, I would have saved myself about 2 hours of troubleshooting time and saved my family's Movie Night (Jaws 3D). Ughhh.
> 
> Hope this helps somebody, someday.


Silver lining.....that movie is AWFUL.


----------



## SG_

Just picked this projector up, where can I find the recommended calibrated settings? Would these same settings work on an ALR screen?


----------



## ckronengold

SG_ said:


> Just picked this projector up, where can I find the recommended calibrated settings? Would these same settings work on an ALR screen?


These are from @Alaric and have been very well received by those of us who have tried them. YMMV, but its a great place to start. 

https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home

And here's some more background on his set up: https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Settings will be a decent starting point. All of our set ups as far as the room, screen type and size as well as variations for each unit will vary. 

Alaric has a velvet treated room if yours has light colored walls for instance it will effect the picture quality. 

Has any US based owners had their units calibrated yet? I am on a list for ChadB to come to the DC Metro area 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Settings will be a decent starting point. All of our set ups as far as the room, screen type and size as well as variations for each unit will vary.
> 
> Alaric has a velvet treated room if yours has light colored walls for instance it will effect the picture quality.
> 
> Has any US based owners had their units calibrated yet? I am on a list for ChadB to come to the DC Metro area
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The settings @Alaric has provided are very good, of course things will affect how well they will work for you but if your room is light controlled and screen of similar size and gain then you will be very please with the results.


----------



## seplant

Gellert said:


> After owning the 5050ub for 2 1/2 weeks, I finally decided to try a 3D movie. My Sony UBP X700 kept giving me the same error over and over, saying the projector wasn't a 3D device.
> 
> After a lengthy call to Epson's tech support, they couldn't fix the problem either.
> 
> 
> 
> However, I did find out how to correct the problem and I'm letting everyone else know (that owns the same player).
> 
> 
> 
> You absolutely MUST disable/uncheck the Sony's HDR/DolbyVision setting to watch any 3D Blu-ray. When it's set to on/auto, the Epson doesn't recognize the 3D signal, thus giving you the error message.
> 
> 
> 
> Had I known this, I would have saved myself about 2 hours of troubleshooting time and saved my family's Movie Night (Jaws 3D). Ughhh.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps somebody, someday.


Any comments on 3D performance of the 5050? Did you make adjustments to any settings (gamma, 3D brightness, 3D depth, screen size, etc.)?


----------



## Lifeline99

ckronengold said:


> Its definitely bigger. Shouldn't be an issue unless you've got zero wiggle room.


Im also coming from a 5030. I use it in a living room with some ambient light, but I mostly watch at night. Clearly the 5050 is a big upgrade specs-wise, but I must say I'm still regularly impressed by how good my 5030 looks with good content. For others upgrading from a 5030, could you speak to the improvements you see on the screen?


----------



## tooslow2

Same here, currently enjoying my 5030 but the hdr is compelling.


I'm mostly on the fence about the lack of frame interpolation. I believe it does not function while it's pixel shifting?? I always have it on high with the 5030 as it helps blur a lot, don't know if I can give it up.


Any comments about blur?


----------



## MidnightWatcher

tooslow2 said:


> Same here, currently enjoying my 5030 but the hdr is compelling.
> 
> 
> I'm mostly on the fence about the lack of frame interpolation. I believe it does not function while it's pixel shifting?? I always have it on high with the 5030 as it helps blur a lot, don't know if I can give it up.
> 
> 
> Any comments about blur?


Frame interpolation now works with 1080p sources and 4K enhancement enabled on firmware 1.01. It will not work with 4K sources, however. Glass half full.


----------



## tooslow2

MidnightWatcher said:


> Frame interpolation now works with 1080p sources and 4K enhancement enabled on firmware 1.01. It will not work with 4K sources, however. Glass half full.



Thanks, good to know. Is there black frame insertion or anything for 4k source. If possible, how would you compare the smoothness between 1080p FI, 1080p enhanced FI, and 4k source?


----------



## GCS

5050 owners what are your "cons" to this projector - meaning what would you warn potential buyers about before they got it?

I assume lack of native 4k would be the main one but based on reviews and comments it sure seems like that is not that big of a deal.


----------



## --Sclaws

GCS said:


> 5050 owners what are your "cons" to this projector - meaning what would you warn potential buyers about before they got it?
> 
> I assume lack of native 4k would be the main one but based on reviews and comments it sure seems like that is not that big of a deal.


Hello again, GCS 
- Size. Its a big projector...personal preference of course, but it should be considered.
- Noise. High lamp mode is a bit loud, but imo not distracting. The projector sits about 6' above my head and back maybe a foot, and I don't notice most of the time.
- Not a laser, but that's not a surprise for this manufacturer and price point.
- No signal/mode memory. For example, when the projector detects HDR, it would be a nice feature if it could be set to automatically switch to a preferred display mode...but thats a nitpick, and something that has not been offered before by Epson IIRC.


----------



## GCS

--Sclaws said:


> Hello again, GCS
> - Size. Its a big projector...personal preference of course, but it should be considered.


Not worried as my HC3000 isn't small either and the only other thing I am considering as you know is the 5040.



> - Size. Its a big projector...personal preference of course, but it should be considered.


- Noise. High lamp mode is a bit loud, but imo not distracting. The projector sits about 6' above my head and back maybe a foot, and I don't notice most of the time.

Same my HC3000 isn't super quiet but its not a problem either.



> - Not a laser, but that's not a surprise for this manufacturer and price point.


Yeah laser would be great but at my budget not happening



> - No signal/mode memory. For example, when the projector detects HDR, it would be a nice feature if it could be set to automatically switch to a preferred display mode...but thats a nitpick, and something that has not been offered before by Epson IIRC.


Interesting, wasn't aware of that. I guess you guys just have a preset programmed in or something and hit a button. I know I would fiddle with it but the rest of the family will just turn it on, insert disc and press play. They won't know how to or understand any settings at all so hopefully the "default" looks good.

Thanks


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

GCS said:


> 5050 owners what are your "cons" to this projector - meaning what would you warn potential buyers about before they got it?
> 
> 
> 
> I assume lack of native 4k would be the main one but based on reviews and comments it sure seems like that is not that big of a deal.




I don’t see how that’s a Con. It’s a $2999 machine there is no native 4K at that price point. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gellert1

seplant said:


> Any comments on 3D performance of the 5050? Did you make adjustments to any settings (gamma, 3D brightness, 3D depth, screen size, etc.)?


As of now, I've only watched the opening scene of Gravity in 3D. That was very, very impressive. I own an ALR screen that's 1.3 gain. I have the Epson's iris permanently off in all modes because the screen literally disappears in my room with lights off. Lamp is set on the eco setting. The 3D glasses are Epson brand ($60 each) on eBay.

Lack of time hasn't allowed me to watch a full movie in 3D yet but Memorial day weekend will change that for the better.

It's very important that each eye doesn't pick up any images from the other side to get the best 3D effect. The Epson glasses are big and nerdy looking but I love them since they fit well over my prescription glasses and the nosepiece is adjustable. I haven't messed with any other settings like depth, brightness etc.

I'm a huge 3D fan, owning about 120 3D Blu-rays movies. If you are too, there's a great Facebook group of over 5,000 members that share information on where to buy them, any sales, etc. Just search for "3D Blu-ray movie enthusiast group".


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

--Sclaws said:


> Hello again, GCS
> 
> - Size. Its a big projector...personal preference of course, but it should be considered.
> 
> - Noise. High lamp mode is a bit loud, but imo not distracting. The projector sits about 6' above my head and back maybe a foot, and I don't notice most of the time.
> 
> - Not a laser, but that's not a surprise for this manufacturer and price point.
> 
> - No signal/mode memory. For example, when the projector detects HDR, it would be a nice feature if it could be set to automatically switch to a preferred display mode...but thats a nitpick, and something that has not been offered before by Epson IIRC.




I would agree with the auto signal detection as being a con for me. I also wish I could have a black case and not pay extra. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WisconsinEric

I am considering moving from JVC to Epson projectors and am curious what I need from a mounting hardware perspective.

I have the Chief RPMA-281 for JVC projectors. Is there an interface that works with this and the 5050?

Thanks for any assistance.


----------



## gene4ht

WisconsinEric said:


> I am considering moving from JVC to Epson projectors and am curious what I need from a mounting hardware perspective.
> 
> I have the Chief RPMA-281 for JVC projectors. Is there an interface that works with this and the 5050?
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.


Yes...Chief's *SLB 357* (custom bracket specifically for the 5040/6040/5050/6050) should slip perfectly (onto the 6 knurled nuts) onto the RPA portion of your existing mount. The SLB 357 should be available from Projector People, Visual Apex, B&H, etc.


----------



## WisconsinEric

gene4ht said:


> Yes...Chief's *SLB 357* (custom bracket specifically for the 5040/6040/5050/6050) should slip perfectly (onto the 6 knurled nuts) onto the RPA portion of your existing mount. The SLB 357 should be available from Projector People, Visual Apex, B&H, etc.
> 
> View attachment 2568044


Great, thanks!


----------



## skylarlove1999

GCS said:


> 5050 owners what are your "cons" to this projector - meaning what would you warn potential buyers about before they got it?
> 
> I assume lack of native 4k would be the main one but based on reviews and comments it sure seems like that is not that big of a deal.


The big con is .... not enough hours in the day for rewatching all my 4K movies LOL. 

Seriously the only negative is some judder in a very small percentage of very fast panning scenes that very few displays handle well such as the panning over the desert in the beginning of x-men Apocalypse. But the image the 5050 and 6050 puts out is amazing. This is the beginning of Allied. Decent movie but great 4k . My phone can't really do my 6050 justice but that won't stop me from posting pictures LOL.


----------



## sddawson

ArtemF said:


> Found an answer to my question above about HDR auto tone mapping, from the ProjectorReviews.com:
> 
> 
> So it seems Epson indeed employs tone mapping similar to HDR optimizer in Panny players, while HDR slider is additional brightness tweaking of the HDR image. From the review, it seems you rarely have to tweak the HDR slider on Epson, while the Panasonic's HDR optimizer seems to be "smarter" and produces good brightness without tweaking at all (?).


With the _huge_ proviso that I don't (yet) own this projector, I have not read anywhere that the Epson's HDR slider takes any notice of the metadata in a movie. This would mean that, ideally, you'd change the slider if you moved from a 1,000 nit movie to a 4,000 nit one. The Panny would negate this need, since it dynamically adjusts its tone mapping depending on metadata.

But there are still two ways to use the Panny. You could use SDR/BT2020 mode, which means the Panny is doing _all_ the tone mapping. The Epson would accept the BT2020 colour space and display the richer colours but otherwise will be in SDR mode using a 2.4 gamma. Many people say this is the best way to drive a projector. The second way is to set the Panny to output HDR but use its optimiser with a target luminance set to the "projector" setting. So the Panny does tone mapping to that level, and you then additionally use the Epson's slider to get your preferred result. You still get "dynamic", metadata-aware mapping. I'm really not sure of the best approach here, since I've not yet had the opportunity to try it. Hopefully someone else here has.

Of course, you well may have to use just the Epson's slider for some streaming sources if you have the likes of an Apple TV etc.


----------



## ArtemF

skylarlove1999 said:


> The big con is .... not enough hours in the day for rewatching all my 4K movies LOL.


Nice! Btw, in what color mode do you watch movies? I've read people complain the projector doesn't automatically switch to dedicated SDR/HDR color modes. For example, if you calibrated 2 modes for SDR and HDR, you would have to switch them manually for respective SDR / HDR content. Do you have this problem?


----------



## skylarlove1999

ArtemF said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The big con is .... not enough hours in the day for rewatching all my 4K movies LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! Btw, in what color mode do you watch movies? I've read people complain the projector doesn't automatically switch to dedicated SDR/HDR color modes. For example, if you calibrated 2 modes for SDR and HDR, you would have to switch them manually for respective SDR / HDR content. Do you have this problem?
Click to expand...

I watch in Bright Cinema for HDR and Digital Cinema for SDR. It is a bit annoying that the 5050/6050 doesn't switch to your preferred color mode when the projector recognizes HDR/SDR signal. When I attended the 6050 event in NYC I did mention this annoyance to the Epson engineers.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> I watch in Bright Cinema for HDR and Digital Cinema for SDR. It is a bit annoying that the 5050/6050 doesn't switch to your preferred color mode when the projector recognizes HDR/SDR signal. When I attended the 6050 event in NYC I did mention this annoyance to the Epson engineers.


Digital cinema engages the filter which isn’t technically the right mode for SDR content, Natural is the best for this.


----------



## gene4ht

The information pertaining to firmware updates/upgrades can always be found at Epson’s projector support website. Look for your particular model and click on USB for “how to.”

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## drober30

skylarlove1999 said:


> ArtemF said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The big con is .... not enough hours in the day for rewatching all my 4K movies LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! Btw, in what color mode do you watch movies? I've read people complain the projector doesn't automatically switch to dedicated SDR/HDR color modes. For example, if you calibrated 2 modes for SDR and HDR, you would have to switch them manually for respective SDR / HDR content. Do you have this problem?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I watch in Bright Cinema for HDR and Digital Cinema for SDR. It is a bit annoying that the 5050/6050 doesn't switch to your preferred color mode when the projector recognizes HDR/SDR signal. When I attended the 6050 event in NYC I did mention this annoyance to the Epson engineers.
Click to expand...

Would this be something that can be implemented through a firmware update?

I love the “it just works” approach and not having to constantly monitor everything to make sure I’m getting the best out of everything I purchased.


----------



## a7ypical

*Contemplating on upgrading from 5040*

I'm currently using the 5040 and thinking about upgrading to 5050. I tried to follow the various discussions in this thread regarding this question but would be really thankful if anyone is willing to shed some more light.

I'm trying to figure out if an upgrade is worthwhile specifically for my use case. It looks like for picture quality an upgrade may have a marginal effect for those who spent time calibrating the 5040 and added a device like the Panasonic for HDR tone mapping.

However, I did not not spend much time tuning the 5040 so basically using the stock settings. I'm also only using Apple TV so I do not have a device that does better HDR tone mapping. I'm wondering if I would see a significant improvement in picture quality, watching mostly streaming services such as Netflix and Amazon prime with 4K/HDR movies/shows. As I understand that the 5050 seems to handle HDR with stock settings much better than 5040. I'll also add that my room is not light controlled so there is some ambient light and some windows with glass that bounce light. I'm wondering if that alone would make the differences between the 5050 & 5040 unnoticeable.

Thanks.


----------



## drhankz

a7ypical said:


> I'm currently using the 5040 and thinking about upgrading to 5050. I tried to follow the various discussions in this thread regarding this question but would be really thankful if anyone is willing to shed some more light.
> 
> Thanks.


Waste of money in my opinion unless you have lots of money to burn


----------



## LowellG

How much of an upgrade would this be over my Panasonic AE7000U, minus the HDR. I am debating on an interim 4K until their is a true 4K for under $5K. My Panasonic uses double refraction and from what I can find on the internet, that's what the pixel shifting is on these Espons. I looked at a JVC 790 and Sony 285 a while back and I can see the difference in sharpness. So my basic question is would this faux 4K be and sharper than my double refraction Panny?

Thanks,


----------



## gene4ht

a7ypical said:


> *I'm trying to figure out if an upgrade is worthwhile* specifically for my use case. It looks like for picture quality an upgrade may have a marginal effect for those who spent time calibrating the 5040 and added a device like the Panasonic for HDR tone mapping.





drhankz said:


> *Waste of money* in my opinion unless you have lots of money to burn


This is strictly a "subjective" and budget related question....

(1) From a financial perspective, upgrading typically means/costs about $1500...most of us would put this to better use upgrading other areas of our hobby....ATMOS, speakers, subs, acoustic panels, etc.
(2) From a PQ perspective (primarily HDR) performance...maybe 10-20% improvement that would be noticeable by AVS'ers like ourselves and meaningless to 99% of others (family/friends).
(3) As previously mentioned, folks who are calling this a "night and day" difference are undoubtedly defending their purchase decision. If this were actually the case, 90% of us would be upgrading w/o question/hesitation.
(4) Those with unlimited discretionary $$$ will upgrade...just because they want to and easily can.
(5) As you’ve indicated for your use case and likely most others, the 5050’s improvements over the 5040 are acknowledged but likely deemed “marginal” overall. Whether the upgrade is worthy of $1500 or more is a question only you can answer.

In any case, if one needs to resolve the "itch," I would recommend ordering a 5050 from a retailer/dealer with favorable return policies (i.e. Crutchfield) to see if it's worth it for you. Remember also, iterations beyond the 5050 in a year or two will obviously address HDR even better but also be HDMI 2.1 capable....not so with the current 5050. This is IMO only as your YMMV.


----------



## BUman

Deciding between the Sony 295 and the new Epson 5050. We know the Sony is true 4k so it definitely wins out on overall picture but I have a couple other questions.

I have a bright room we watch TV during the day and even have low level lights on at night. I have a black diamond 115" 1.2 gain screen already w/ an older Epson projector (4yrs old).

My biggest concerns:
- I have a throw distance of 22 feet set with the project currently cut out in the ceiling soffit in the back of the room.
- I want a bright projector since I watch a lot of TV with lights on or during the day. Our Current Epson 6030 that is 4-5 yrs old still does the job well even on it's 2nd bulb. How does the Sony do watching sports and with the lights on in a fairly bright room? 
- The box in the ceiling soffit was built custom for our current projector but with the new projectors much bigger now I think I would only have 1-2 inches above the projector and on each side. Will that be an issue w/ ventilation - there is an open space behind it but should I drill holes into the side wall inside the box where the projector sits to help w/ ventilation? 
- Best 4k HDMI cable I should use for this new projector? Only need 15-20 feet. Also, thoughts on new 4k receiver? 
- Would love to hear someone who has gone from an Epson to a Sony.

Thanks so much


----------



## netwebber

BUman said:


> Deciding between the Sony 295 and the new Epson 5050. We know the Sony is true 4k so it definitely wins out on overall picture but I have a couple other questions.
> 
> I have a bright room we watch TV during the day and even have low level lights on at night. I have a black diamond 115" 1.2 gain screen already w/ an older Epson projector (4yrs old).
> 
> My biggest concerns:
> - I have a throw distance of 22 feet set with the project currently cut out in the ceiling soffit in the back of the room.
> - I want a bright projector since I watch a lot of TV with lights on or during the day. Our Current Epson 6030 that is 4-5 yrs old still does the job well even on it's 2nd bulb. How does the Sony do watching sports and with the lights on in a fairly bright room?
> - The box in the ceiling soffit was built custom for our current projector but with the new projectors much bigger now I think I would only have 1-2 inches above the projector and on each side. Will that be an issue w/ ventilation - there is an open space behind it but should I drill holes into the side wall inside the box where the projector sits to help w/ ventilation?
> - Best 4k HDMI cable I should use for this new projector? Only need 15-20 feet. Also, thoughts on new 4k receiver?
> - Would love to hear someone who has gone from an Epson to a Sony.
> 
> Thanks so much


Definitely go with the Epson. It's unlikely the Sony will be bright enough for you. 

I have a Sony HW45ES (which is rated 20% brighter than the HW295ES) and attended the Epson 6050UB demo. I have a .9 gain 100" diagonal screen, which comes out to roughly the same brightness per lumen as a 115" 1.2 gain screen. I would not be happy with my Sony in a bright room, so I would not recommend the 295ES in one.


----------



## Alaric

BUman said:


> Deciding between the Sony 295 and the new Epson 5050. We know the Sony is true 4k so it definitely wins out on overall picture but I have a couple other questions.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a bright room we watch TV during the day and even have low level lights on at night. I have a black diamond 115" 1.2 gain screen already w/ an older Epson projector (4yrs old).
> 
> 
> 
> My biggest concerns:
> 
> - I have a throw distance of 22 feet set with the project currently cut out in the ceiling soffit in the back of the room.
> 
> - I want a bright projector since I watch a lot of TV with lights on or during the day. Our Current Epson 6030 that is 4-5 yrs old still does the job well even on it's 2nd bulb. How does the Sony do watching sports and with the lights on in a fairly bright room?
> 
> - The box in the ceiling soffit was built custom for our current projector but with the new projectors much bigger now I think I would only have 1-2 inches above the projector and on each side. Will that be an issue w/ ventilation - there is an open space behind it but should I drill holes into the side wall inside the box where the projector sits to help w/ ventilation?
> 
> - Best 4k HDMI cable I should use for this new projector? Only need 15-20 feet. Also, thoughts on new 4k receiver?
> 
> - Would love to hear someone who has gone from an Epson to a Sony.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so much


Asking for advice about the Sony 4k on an Epson thread seems a little strange!
The Sony being true 4k is certainly a touch sharper, though depending on how close you sit, how much you will notice that is another matter!
The Epson has it comfortably beat on pretty much everything else including flexibility of placement so I'd check that the Sony will actually do what you need it to.
As for brightness, HDR, calibrated colour and indeed price then the Epson wins all day long, even it's bigger brother struggles! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I watch in Bright Cinema for HDR and Digital Cinema for SDR. It is a bit annoying that the 5050/6050 doesn't switch to your preferred color mode when the projector recognizes HDR/SDR signal. When I attended the 6050 event in NYC I did mention this annoyance to the Epson engineers.
> 
> 
> 
> Digital cinema engages the filter which isn’t technically the right mode for SDR content, Natural is the best for this.
Click to expand...

Thank you Luminated67. I was under the impression that the color filter would only engage in Digital Cinema if an HDR signal was detected. Is that not true? Thanks for anyone providing insight.


----------



## skylarlove1999

drhankz said:


> a7ypical said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently using the 5040 and thinking about upgrading to 5050. I tried to follow the various discussions in this thread regarding this question but would be really thankful if anyone is willing to shed some more light.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Waste of money in my opinion unless you have lots of money to burn
Click to expand...

Just curious how you formed your opinion? No disrespect intended but unless you have spent time with the 5040 and 5050 I am not sure what you have based your rather strong opinion on. Could you please elaborate?


----------



## skylarlove1999

drober30 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ArtemF said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The big con is .... not enough hours in the day for rewatching all my 4K movies LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! Btw, in what color mode do you watch movies? I've read people complain the projector doesn't automatically switch to dedicated SDR/HDR color modes. For example, if you calibrated 2 modes for SDR and HDR, you would have to switch them manually for respective SDR / HDR content. Do you have this problem?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I watch in Bright Cinema for HDR and Digital Cinema for SDR. It is a bit annoying that the 5050/6050 doesn't switch to your preferred color mode when the projector recognizes HDR/SDR signal. When I attended the 6050 event in NYC I did mention this annoyance to the Epson engineers.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Would this be something that can be implemented through a firmware update?
> 
> I love the “it just works” approach and not having to constantly monitor everything to make sure I’m getting the best out of everything I purchased.
Click to expand...

Honestly was not really impressed with the response from Epson about syncing the incoming HDR/SDR signal with a preferred picture mode. It didn't seem like it was big deal to them. Not sure if it could be upgraded with firmware . I try to make my theater easy for my wife and other house guests to operate if I am not around. The auto sync with HDR/SDR signal and preferred picture mode would be a big help.


----------



## skylarlove1999

LowellG said:


> How much of an upgrade would this be over my Panasonic AE7000U, minus the HDR. I am debating on an interim 4K until their is a true 4K for under $5K. My Panasonic uses double refraction and from what I can find on the internet, that's what the pixel shifting is on these Espons. I looked at a JVC 790 and Sony 285 a while back and I can see the difference in sharpness. So my basic question is would this faux 4K be and sharper than my double refraction Panny?
> 
> Thanks,


Many stores have at least a 30 day return policy. Just make sure there is not a restocking fee. I could try to convince you why you should see a difference but it is your own eyes that need to convince your brain. If you are following this thread you will see actual owners like myself who are blown away by the image quality of the 5050 and 6050. A few who upgraded from the 5040 paired with panny 820 and aren't quite as impressed and then people who don't own either the 5040 or 5050 who just like to look at specs and give their opinion.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> Deciding between the Sony 295 and the new Epson 5050. We know the Sony is true 4k so it definitely wins out on overall picture but I have a couple other questions.
> 
> I have a bright room we watch TV during the day and even have low level lights on at night. I have a black diamond 115" 1.2 gain screen already w/ an older Epson projector (4yrs old).
> 
> My biggest concerns:
> - I have a throw distance of 22 feet set with the project currently cut out in the ceiling soffit in the back of the room.
> - I want a bright projector since I watch a lot of TV with lights on or during the day. Our Current Epson 6030 that is 4-5 yrs old still does the job well even on it's 2nd bulb. How does the Sony do watching sports and with the lights on in a fairly bright room?
> - The box in the ceiling soffit was built custom for our current projector but with the new projectors much bigger now I think I would only have 1-2 inches above the projector and on each side. Will that be an issue w/ ventilation - there is an open space behind it but should I drill holes into the side wall inside the box where the projector sits to help w/ ventilation?
> - Best 4k HDMI cable I should use for this new projector? Only need 15-20 feet. Also, thoughts on new 4k receiver?
> - Would love to hear someone who has gone from an Epson to a Sony.
> 
> Thanks so much


You should find a dealer who has both projectors and see which one you prefer. I wouldn't assume the Sony throws a better picture just because it is native 4k. Make sure you view them both at your preferred seating distance and try to take note how far the projectors are from the screen. I would think with the projector being set back 22ft you would want all the lumens you can get IMHO.


----------



## rbk123

a7ypical said:


> I'm trying to figure out if an upgrade is worthwhile specifically for my use case. It looks like for picture quality an upgrade may have a marginal effect for those who spent time calibrating the 5040 and added a device like the Panasonic for HDR tone mapping.


This one's easy: a few on here who have upgraded from the 5040 say it definitely was worthwhile. The legion of 5040 owners on here who haven't say no. Only you can decide if it's worthwhile and so the suggestion of trying it out at a return friendly seller really is the only way you can know for sure either way. There are other benefits besides picture quality to weigh - no (known) power supply risk, it will probably be more "compatibility friendly" with various devices, come to mind.


----------



## skylarlove1999

gene4ht said:


> a7ypical said:
> 
> 
> 
> *I'm trying to figure out if an upgrade is worthwhile* specifically for my use case. It looks like for picture quality an upgrade may have a marginal effect for those who spent time calibrating the 5040 and added a device like the Panasonic for HDR tone mapping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drhankz said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Waste of money* in my opinion unless you have lots of money to burn
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is strictly a "subjective" and budget related question....
> 
> (1) From a financial perspective, upgrading typically means/costs about $1500...most of us would put this to better use upgrading other areas of our hobby....ATMOS, speakers, subs, acoustic panels, etc.
> (2) From a PQ perspective (primarily HDR) performance...maybe 10-20% improvement that would be noticeable by AVS'ers like ourselves and meaningless to 99% of others (family/friends).
> (3) As previously mentioned, folks who are calling this a "night and day" difference are undoubtedly defending their purchase decision. If this were actually the case, 90% of us would be upgrading w/o question/hesitation.
> 
> (5) As you’ve indicated for your use case and likely most others, the 5050’s improvements over the 5040 are acknowledged but likely deemed “marginal” overall. Whether the upgrade is worthy of $1500 or more is a question only you can answer.
> 
> In any case, if one needs to resolve the "itch," I would recommend ordering a 5050 from a retailer/dealer with favorable return policies (i.e. Crutchfield) to see if it's worth it for you. Remember also, iterations beyond the 5050 in a year or two will obviously address HDR even better but also be HDMI 2.1 capable....not so with the current 5050. This is IMO only as your YMMV.
Click to expand...

As you’ve indicated for your use case and likely most others, the 5050’s improvements over the 5040 are acknowledged but likely deemed “marginal” overall. Whether the upgrade is worthy of $1500 or more is a question only you can answer.

So the Epson 5040 and 5050 had MSRP of $2999. Obviously you might be able to find a refurbished 5040 with a limited or no warranty for around $1799 at this point. So still not a $1500 difference in today's dollars. Add another $200 to the 5040 price for a non Epson backed warranty and you are back up to $1999 for the 5040 that was introduced in 2016. So let's say you upgrade in another year or two from the 5040 to maybe a true 4k projector. How much do you think your $2000 5040 is worth two years from now when you go to sell your 2016 projector? Let's now buy the 2019 5050 for $3k and do the same upgrade two years from now. Fairly certain that 5050 holds it value way better than the refurb 5040 and you get an an Epson warranty for the next two years with your 5050 purchase. You have two great years of enjoying the great picture quality of the 5050. Not trying to justify my upgrade of my 5040 to a 5050 to my now 6050. I didn't pay a dime for upgrading. Had some issues with Epson and they really took care of me. I do believe the 5050/6050 offers a superior viewing experience to the 5040 in HDR/SDR IMHO. I do agree that anyone considering upgrading should not trust anyone else's opinion. They should do some viewing in their own theater for themselves.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you Luminated67. I was under the impression that the color filter would only engage in Digital Cinema if an HDR signal was detected. Is that not true? Thanks for anyone providing insight.


Pretty sure it engages regardless of whether it’s been sent an SDR or HDR signal, best way to find out is to switch between Natural and Digital Cinema, if you hear motors moving something when you switch between these two modes then what you are hearing is the filter moving.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Luminated67. I was under the impression that the color filter would only engage in Digital Cinema if an HDR signal was detected. Is that not true? Thanks for anyone providing insight.
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure it engages regardless of whether it’s been sent an SDR or HDR signal, best way to find out is to switch between Natural and Digital Cinema, if you hear motors moving something when you switch between these two modes then what you are hearing is the filter moving.
Click to expand...

I will try that. It makes sense. Definitely possible my understanding was wrong. Thank you.


----------



## oztheatre

Not sure if this has been talked about before but I was playing around the focus. If you get right up on the screen, put your reading glasses on if needed and get a feel for the remote and the steps the gears travel through to get the image nice and sharp. It's been discussed many times that LCD has a rather pronounced pixel gap, that is true. However I noticed something the other night when trying to get the 'exact spot' the focus needed to be in that if you can get the focus to go 1 step back after finding the focus point that pronounces the pixel gap the most, it more or less reduces the pixel gap by.. I don't know.. but at least 30%. What I found was zero difference in the sharpness of the image at normal seating position but I did notice the screen door wasn't as noticeable as finding that spot on the focus makes it thinner but not less focused to my eyes. I wonder if this is Epson's 'preferred spot' but there's no way to tell without a 1 to 50 or 1 to 100 gauge to know where it's focus is sitting. 

Came across this by accident. It really makes this projector even better again and I'm 1 x image width seating distance so very close by most standards. Will try and take photos.


----------



## BUman

skylarlove1999 said:


> You should find a dealer who has both projectors and see which one you prefer. I wouldn't assume the Sony throws a better picture just because it is native 4k. Make sure you view them both at your preferred seating distance and try to take note how far the projectors are from the screen. I would think with the projector being set back 22ft you would want all the lumens you can get IMHO.


I was able to go to a store today and they had a 6040 and a Sony 295 next to each other hooked up to the same movie so they would just cover the other projector to compare in different scenes. I know the new 5050 is even better than the 6040 so I was surprised at how much brighter the Epson was vs the Sony. We even made sure the settings were similar (Cinema vs Cinema & Dynamic vs dynamic) to get a good comparison. We were watching a dark movie w/ nighttime scenes. I was surprised at how much darker the Sony was, didn't like it. I then went to another store here in Dallas which supposedly sells the most Sony projectors of anyone in Dallas and the hookup they had w/ Avengers on looked really nice even w/ a few dim lights on. 

If I had only seen the store w/ the Sony on w/ Avengers I might have gone w/ the Sony but after seeing the older Epson 6040 side by side watching the same movie w/ the Sony I'm definitely going w/ the Epson. I sit 12 feet back and we were standing at that distance watching both projectors and I couldn't tell a difference in picture quality. 

Thanks for feedback. 

Would love to know if people calibrated their new 5050 or just left it in a specific mode out of the box?


----------



## gene4ht

skylarlove1999 said:


> As you’ve indicated for your use case and likely most others, the 5050’s improvements over the 5040 are acknowledged but likely deemed “marginal” overall. Whether the upgrade is worthy of $1500 or more is a question only you can answer.
> 
> So the Epson 5040 and 5050 had MSRP of $2999. Obviously you might be able to find a refurbished 5040 with a limited or no warranty for around $1799 at this point. So still not a $1500 difference in today's dollars. Add another $200 to the 5040 price for a non Epson backed warranty and you are back up to $1999 for the 5040 that was introduced in 2016. So let's say you upgrade in another year or two from the 5040 to maybe a true 4k projector. How much do you think your $2000 5040 is worth two years from now when you go to sell your 2016 projector? Let's now buy the 2019 5050 for $3k and do the same upgrade two years from now. Fairly certain that 5050 holds it value way better than the refurb 5040 and you get an an Epson warranty for the next two years with your 5050 purchase. You have two great years of enjoying the great picture quality of the 5050. Not trying to justify my upgrade of my 5040 to a 5050 to my now 6050. I didn't pay a dime for upgrading. Had some issues with Epson and they really took care of me. I do believe the 5050/6050 offers a superior viewing experience to the 5040 in HDR/SDR IMHO. I do agree that anyone considering upgrading should not trust anyone else's opinion. They should do some viewing in their own theater for themselves.


Your points are certainly valid. And there’s no doubt the improvements found in the 5050 are desirable. I think most of us would elect to upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050 given a favorable financial scenario. And I’m in agreement...each of us must make the decision based on our own first hand viewing experience and set of circumstances.


----------



## Spankey

While I love my 5050 and didn't own a 5040, I'm not sure I would upgrade to the 50 from the 40. I was coming from an older projector so the improvements over that projector are huge for me. That said, I could see room for a bit more sharpness from a true 4k projector. Prices are going to continue to drop so maybe wait for Epson to do a true 4k projector or wait for 4k projectors to come down in price overall. It's a lot of money to drop on a projector. If you are happy with a 5040, continue to be happy with it.


----------



## plain fan

FYI, the Epson is part of the Best Buy Magnolia Videofest which starts today.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

plain fan said:


> FYI, the Epson is part of the Best Buy Magnolia Videofest which starts today.




What is this video fest. I couldn’t find any information on the website. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/clp/magnolia-videofest/pcmcat1490639860308.c?id=pcmcat1490639860308


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

plain fan said:


> https://www.bestbuy.com/site/clp/magnolia-videofest/pcmcat1490639860308.c?id=pcmcat1490639860308




Thanks but again there is no real information. You have to fill out a consultation form. I thought you may have known some details 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

Code:







CallingMrBenzo said:


> Thanks but again there is no real information. You have to fill out a consultation form. I thought you may have known some details
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Possibly the 5050 for $2799...other than that, it appears to be a marketing effort to drum up new business for their consulting and HT bundles/packages.


----------



## Nexgen76

gene4ht said:


> Your points are certainly valid. And there’s no doubt the improvements found in the 5050 are desirable. I think most of us would elect to upgrade from the 5040 to the 5050 given a favorable financial scenario. And I’m in agreement...each of us must make the decision based on our own first hand viewing experience and set of circumstances.


I couldn't agree more most of these so call upgrades to projectors no matter which brand seem to be more marginal upgrade at best these days and more of financial choice first.


----------



## Spankey

gene4ht said:


> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Possibly the 5050 for $2799...other than that, it appears to be a marketing effort to drum up new business for their consulting and HT bundles/packages.


Looks like they've removed the 5040 from their website which was on sale a few weeks ago. Still, the $200 off the 5050 is a great deal.


----------



## rinse82

At a fork in the road.

Have decided to move on from my 5040, but can't decide between the 5050 and the JVC RS540/X790R.

There are pros and cons to both. 

My theater is in the basement and is essentially dark all the time, so for that reason I am leaning towards the RS540. 

However, the HDR tone mapping on the 5050ub is intriguing. I wonder if I would be losing out on anything if I decide to pair the 540 with the Panasonic UB820 for example.

My viewing is 60% movies, 25% Sports on Cable, and 15% Video Games (PS4 Pro and Xbox One X)


----------



## a7ypical

Nexgen76 said:


> I couldn't agree more most of these so call upgrades to projectors no matter which brand seem to be more marginal upgrade at best these days and more of financial choice first.


Thank you and whole of those who shared their view on the 5040 vs 5050.
I must say I was expecting a much clearer preference for the 5050. Just reading the reviews it seems that the 5050 is sharper with the new 4k shift engine (I'm seating about 7ft from a 100' screen). Brighter with both the new 4k shift engine (which some reviewers say makes the picture brighter by being faster?) and the bit of extra lumens. But mostly I was expecting the new tone mapping feature to make a substantial difference viewing HDR material. I read many 5040 owners got the external Panasonic player just for the tone mapping so I was expecting this to be significant.
But it seems the consensus is that all of these just have a marginal effect.
I have to say that as watching mostly streaming content the lack of 18Gbs on the 5040 was a real pain and a bit of a let down. Netflix for example only plays 4k/HDR with 60fps. I now got the Apple TV 4k which kind of mitigates most of the pain though I'm not sure I get the highest quality with all the streaming services. To be honest I was looking for an excuse to upgrade but I'm now thinking on waiting for another year or two for a reasonable true 4K version.

Thanks again.


----------



## gene4ht

Spankey said:


> Looks like they've removed the 5040 from their website which was on sale a few weeks ago. Still, the $200 off the 5050 is a great deal.


Crutchfield today...their favorable return policy makes it a no brainer for those interested in a home trial or comparo.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_27850...html?search=epson_home_cinema_5050ub&skipvs=T


----------



## skylarlove1999

a7ypical said:


> Nexgen76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't agree more most of these so call upgrades to projectors no matter which brand seem to be more marginal upgrade at best these days and more of financial choice first.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you and whole of those who shared their view on the 5040 vs 5050.
> I must say I was expecting a much clearer preference for the 5050. Just reading the reviews it seems that the 5050 is sharper with the new 4k shift engine (I'm seating about 7ft from a 100' screen). Brighter with both the new 4k shift engine (which some reviewers say makes the picture brighter by being faster?) and the bit of extra lumens. But mostly I was expecting the new tone mapping feature to make a substantial difference viewing HDR material. I read many 5040 owners got the external Panasonic player just for the tone mapping so I was expecting this to be significant.
> But it seems the consensus is that all of these just have a marginal effect.
> I have to say that as watching mostly streaming content the lack of 18Gbs on the 5040 was a real pain and a bit of a let down. Netflix for example only plays 4k/HDR with 60fps. I now got the Apple TV 4k which kind of mitigates most of the pain though I'm not sure I get the highest quality with all the streaming services. To be honest I was looking for an excuse to upgrade but I'm now thinking on waiting for another year or two for a reasonable true 4K version.
> 
> Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that many of the people who say they don't think the 5050 is worth the upgrade are people who haven't even seen the 5050 in person and are only basing their opinion on reading the specs and comparing to the 5040. I could give the same ingredients to two different people to bake a cake and one would rise and taste great and the other one wouldn't even rise. Same ingredients. All about how you put the parts together. Then you have the room you are watching in as a huge variable. Try the 5050 for yourself. Just watch out for any restocking fees. I don't think you will return it.


----------



## dimi123

skylarlove1999 said:


> I do believe the 5050/6050 offers a superior viewing experience to the 5040 in HDR/SDR IMHO.


There may be a difference when watching with the default settings, but when calibrated there is no difference between the 5040 and 5050 in SDR. They measure exactly the same. The HDR slider makes a difference when watching HDR in Digital Cinema mode. If you are using any other mode then you are not using the filter and have no light loss. HDR without the filter is plenty bright on both models.


----------



## Luminated67

rinse82 said:


> At a fork in the road.
> 
> Have decided to move on from my 5040, but can't decide between the 5050 and the JVC RS540/X790R.
> 
> There are pros and cons to both.
> 
> My theater is in the basement and is essentially dark all the time, so for that reason I am leaning towards the RS540.
> 
> However, the HDR tone mapping on the 5050ub is intriguing. I wonder if I would be losing out on anything if I decide to pair the 540 with the Panasonic UB820 for example.
> 
> My viewing is 60% movies, 25% Sports on Cable, and 15% Video Games (PS4 Pro and Xbox One X)


By all accounts the JVC has superior black levels so if dark SciFi movies and the like are your thing then maybe the JVC is the way to go. Beyond this I think the Epson has it beat.

But by all means try and get a demo of both and make your decision then.


----------



## Luminated67

dimi123 said:


> There may be a difference when watching with the default settings, but when calibrated there is no difference between the 5040 and 5050 in SDR. They measure exactly the same. The HDR slider makes a difference when watching HDR in Digital Cinema mode. If you are using any other mode then you are not using the filter and have no light loss. HDR without the filter is plenty bright on both models.


This is wrong, there are two modes that use the filter (Cinema and Digital Cinema) the guy that calibrated mine used Cinema to set mine up on.


----------



## dimi123

Luminated67 said:


> This is wrong, there are two modes that use the filter (Cinema and Digital Cinema) the guy that calibrated mine used Cinema to set mine up on.


Yes, I should have mentioned Cinema, but Digital Cinema is the recommended mode for HDR.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dimi123 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I do believe the 5050/6050 offers a superior viewing experience to the 5040 in HDR/SDR IMHO.
> 
> 
> 
> There may be a difference when watching with the default settings, but when calibrated there is no difference between the 5040 and 5050 in SDR. They measure exactly the same. The HDR slider makes a difference when watching HDR in Digital Cinema mode. If you are using any other mode then you are not using the filter and have no light loss. HDR without the filter is plenty bright on both models.
Click to expand...

Good day to you dimi123. You know we disagree. You are a specs guy. Which I do appreciate. But the 5050 has 2nd generation pixel shifter which many owners of the 5050 and 5040, myself included, perceive a sharper more detailed image in both HDR/SDR content. For HDR the 5050 also has 2nd generation HDR processing. Have you had a chance to view the 5050 yet?


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## BushMackel

Busa said:


> I had problems getting my Xbox One S to output a 4K signal. I got all the checkboxes that it was recognizing the epson as a 4K display but when I selected 4K as the output, I'd get the black screen and after about 30 secs. it would revert back to 1080p and the picture would return. I messed around with several settings on the projector and the xbox to no avail. I dug into the menu on my AVR and there was a setting to upscale 1080p to 4K...once I enabled that, I was able to go in the xbox settings and select 4K and the projector reported it was displaying a 4K signal. Now that that was established, I disabled the AVR setting again, and the projector is still reporting that it's receiving a 4K signal, whereas before it wasn't...so not sure what happened.
> 
> I was getting the black screen also in one of the enhanced modes in the projector settings. I can't remember which one it was that gave me the screen but try changing it from whatever it is now. There's only the 2 options - Normal or Enhanced


Are you getting all checkmarks for 4K HDR on the Xbox One X screen? I would love to hear a confirmation or see a screenshot of the Xbox One X settings screen.


----------



## Luminated67

dimi123 said:


> Yes, I should have mentioned Cinema, but Digital Cinema is the recommended mode for HDR.


I believe out of the box Digital Cinema is closer to BT2020 so is the recommended setting but once calibrated either is as good as each other.


----------



## dimi123

skylarlove1999 said:


> Good day to you dimi123. You know we disagree. You are a specs guy. Which I do appreciate. But the 5050 has 2nd generation pixel shifter which many owners of the 5050 and 5040, myself included, perceive a sharper more detailed image in both HDR/SDR content. For HDR the 5050 also has 2nd generation HDR processing. Have you had a chance to view the 5050 yet?


Good day to you too, skylarlove. 
I'm still waiting on a friend to bring his 9400 over in order to compare it to my 9300. Sharpness and detail may very well be improved, but the consensus on this forum is that you should not let the Epson upscale. You'll get a much sharper picture with much less video noise if you let your blu-ray player or streaming device upscale and feed the Epson a 4K signal. The Epson has more pixels to work with that way for a much cleaner and detailed picture. At least with the 9300/6040.


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## Luminated67

dimi123 said:


> Good day to you too, skylarlove.
> I'm still waiting on a friend to bring his 9400 over in order to compare it to my 9300. Sharpness and detail may very well be improved, but the consensus on this forum is that you should not let the Epson upscale. You'll get a much sharper picture with much less video noise if you let your blu-ray player or streaming device upscale and feed the Epson a 4K signal. The Epson has more pixels to work with that way for a much cleaner and detailed picture. At least with the 9300/6040.


I completely disagree that letting the BR player or AVR do the upscaling is better than letting the Epson do it.


----------



## termite

Luminated67 said:


> I completely disagree that letting the BR player or AVR do the upscaling is better than letting the Epson do it.


I'm still trying to figure this out myself on my 5050.. Have my OPPO 203 to do the upscaling or not as OPPO itself is highly regarded.
Is the rationale here is to leave all processing into Epson so that it can do a better overall job for the best end results?


----------



## termite

By the way it appears Epson 5050ub priced dropped $200 everywhere today! This is now a steal of a projector imho.


----------



## chenxiaolong

Has anyone else run into an issue where the 5050ub randomly shuts off with blinking status and lamp lights ("internal projector error" according to the manual)? I had it happen once when watching a movie. The lamp turned off and after pressing Menu on the remote, the fans ramped up to full speed and the LEDs began blinking. Unplugging the projector and plugging it back in seems to have resolved the issue.

I'm still within Best Buy's return period, so I feel like I should, at the very least, get a replacement.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

chenxiaolong said:


> Has anyone else run into an issue where the 5050ub randomly shuts off with blinking status and lamp lights ("internal projector error" according to the manual)? I had it happen once when watching a movie. The lamp turned off and after pressing Menu on the remote, the fans ramped up to full speed and the LEDs began blinking. Unplugging the projector and plugging it back in seems to have resolved the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still within Best Buy's return period, so I feel like I should, at the very least, get a replacement.




Did you buy an extended warranty through them ? If not I think you would be going through Epson directly if I’m not mistaken 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> chenxiaolong said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else run into an issue where the 5050ub randomly shuts off with blinking status and lamp lights ("internal projector error" according to the manual)? I had it happen once when watching a movie. The lamp turned off and after pressing Menu on the remote, the fans ramped up to full speed and the LEDs began blinking. Unplugging the projector and plugging it back in seems to have resolved the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still within Best Buy's return period, so I feel like I should, at the very least, get a replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you buy an extended warranty through them ? If not I think you would be going through Epson directly if I’m not mistaken
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Then the first 30 days you can definitely return it directly to Best Buy and I would definitely do that great projector but I would not want to deal with that issue on the ongoing basis. I unfortunately had to 5040 s with power supply issues. Epson was great about taking care of me which is the reason why I now have a Epson 6050 that I didn't pay a dime for but I got as a replacement for my 5040.


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## Luminated67

chenxiaolong said:


> Has anyone else run into an issue where the 5050ub randomly shuts off with blinking status and lamp lights ("internal projector error" according to the manual)? I had it happen once when watching a movie. The lamp turned off and after pressing Menu on the remote, the fans ramped up to full speed and the LEDs began blinking. Unplugging the projector and plugging it back in seems to have resolved the issue.
> 
> I'm still within Best Buy's return period, so I feel like I should, at the very least, get a replacement.


Get on the ball ASAP, a few have done this including mine. What ever the issue was it appeared to be very minor as it was collected and returned within 3 days in total.


----------



## Nexgen76

rinse82 said:


> At a fork in the road.
> 
> Have decided to move on from my 5040, but can't decide between the 5050 and the JVC RS540/X790R.
> 
> There are pros and cons to both.
> 
> My theater is in the basement and is essentially dark all the time, so for that reason I am leaning towards the RS540.
> 
> However, the HDR tone mapping on the 5050ub is intriguing. I wonder if I would be losing out on anything if I decide to pair the 540 with the Panasonic UB820 for example.
> 
> My viewing is 60% movies, 25% Sports on Cable, and 15% Video Games (PS4 Pro and Xbox One X)



Pairing the RS540 with UB820 is a combo that's no contest & keeping it in completely dark room you getting the all the contrast. Based on your environment which is bat cave picking the RS540 is no brainier.


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## dimi123

Luminated67 said:


> I completely disagree that letting the BR player or AVR do the upscaling is better than letting the Epson do it.


Here are two pictures taken with a Samsung Note 9 phone. The source signal is coming from my HTPC. The first one is at 1080p resolution and activated 4K enhancement on the Epson 9300, the second one is at 2160p resolution with greyed out 4K enhancement. The difference is small but obvious. Maybe someone could try it on the 5050/9400.


----------



## Viche

dimi123 said:


> Here are two pictures taken with a Samsung Note 9 phone. The source signal is coming from my HTPC. The first one is at 1080p resolution and activated 4K enhancement on the Epson 9300, the second one is at 2160p resolution with greyed out 4K enhancement. The difference is small but obvious. Maybe someone could try it on the 5050/9400.


Interesting, but your original point was that the second generation pixel shifter on the 5050 wouldn't be an advantage because you're doing the scaling on your Blu-ray player. Not sure that's an accurate statement as the projector is still using pixel shifting to reproduce the 4K image from your Blu-ray player on its 1080p panel.


----------



## Luminated67

dimi123 said:


> Here are two pictures taken with a Samsung Note 9 phone. The source signal is coming from my HTPC. The first one is at 1080p resolution and activated 4K enhancement on the Epson 9300, the second one is at 2160p resolution with greyed out 4K enhancement. The difference is small but obvious. Maybe someone could try it on the 5050/9400.


I’ve compared it on my 9400 and in my opinion the opposite is true when I let the BR player do the upscaling. Maybe your PC is better than my Panasonic with regards to upscaling?

Don’t recall if I posted this comparison between BR player doing the upscaling versus Epson doing it but here’s Gandalf from The Hobbit Series. First image is the Panasonic doing the upscaling and the second in my Sony Player sending the signal 1080P.



















I’m currently on hols so can’t do you a direct comparison of the same shot but will do when back home again.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

I got my new AT Elite screen 115” 2:35:1 and it’s awesome. No more black bars it’s such a big upgrade. I am blown away. I now must use high lamp mode for HDR when I was able to do ECO prior. I have the projector on it’s box on an end table for the interim I will be moving my mount later this week. I have some Light spillage on the right and left side by two inches or so. 

Per projector central I should have the lens 16 2” away from the screen to have the scope screen perfectly filled? If that could be confirmed that would be nice 

Otherwise part of me is a little sad that on the few changing aspect ratio films I will be missing out, I guess I should get over that. 

Anyways here are a few pics of LEGO Movie 2 Blu-Ray 





































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dimi123

Viche said:


> Interesting, but your original point was that the second generation pixel shifter on the 5050 wouldn't be an advantage because you're doing the scaling on your Blu-ray player. Not sure that's an accurate statement as the projector is still using pixel shifting to reproduce the 4K image from your Blu-ray player on its 1080p panel.


Maybe I should have phrased it differently. The Epson does not "upscale". It takes a 1080p signal and pixel shifts it, but when receiving a 2160p signal it down-scales it first to 1080p before pixel shifting. The difference comes from the down-scaling as the Epson /or JVC/ is processing more pixels.

P.S.: The quality of the up-scaling device probably plays a big role too.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/3032238-do-eshift-pj-s-jvc-etc-benefit-4k-sources.html

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/1434826-projector-mini-shootout-thread-537.html#post50711409


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## dimi123

Luminated67 said:


> I’ve compared it on my 9400 and in my opinion the opposite is true when I let the BR player do the upscaling. Maybe your PC is better than my Panasonic with regards to upscaling?
> 
> Don’t recall if I posted this comparison between BR player doing the upscaling versus Epson doing it but here’s Gandalf from The Hobbit Series. First image is the Panasonic doing the upscaling and the second in my Sony Player sending the signal 1080P


Yes, but you are comparing two different blu-ray players /with different resolution and shots/ with one another.


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## Viche

dimi123 said:


> Maybe I should have phrased it differently. The Epson does not "upscale". It takes a 1080p signal and pixel shifts it, but when receiving a 2160p signal it down-scales it first to 1080p before pixel shifting. The difference comes from the down-scaling as the Epson /or JVC/ is processing more pixels.
> 
> P.S.: The quality of the up-scaling device probably plays a big role too.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...o-eshift-pj-s-jvc-etc-benefit-4k-sources.html
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...or-mini-shootout-thread-537.html#post50711409



The original argument was about whether or not it would be better for the projector or the blu-ray player to upscale a 1080p image. Per your logic, I would think it would be better for the projector to process the 1080p signal once vs having the blueray player process the 1080p signal to 2160p, and then have the Epson down-scale it to 1080p only to pixel shift it back up to 2160p. Less processing should produces a cleaner image I would think.



dimi123 said:


> Yes, but you are comparing two different blu-ray players /with different resolution and shots/ with one another.


So are you, though. Your screen shots were of a PC sending a 1080p vs a PC sending a 2160p signal, correct? Those are different resolutions. Of course the 2060p example will look better. There is more info for the projector to use to recreate a 4k image. 

For a fair comparison, we need a 1080p source that is scaled via the blu-ray player vs being scaled by the projector. Luminated's example was more accurate than yours in that, although he was using two different players, they were both sending a 1080p image.


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## dimi123

Viche said:


> Luminated's example was more accurate than yours in that, although he was using two different players, they were both sending a 1080p image.


Two different 1080p images with different player settings, video processing and output resolution. The video noise is best seen with text. I doubt that you would see it during a movie. My observations are based on the 9300 only.


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## Viche

dimi123 said:


> Two different 1080p images with different player settings and output resolution. The video noise is best seen with text. I doubt that you would see it during a movie. My observations are based on the 9300 only.



True, but you were using a computer and 2 different resolutions, so your example really doesn't apply either, does it?


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## dimi123

Viche said:


> True, but you were using a computer and 2 different resolutions, so your example really doesn't apply either, does it?


I'm using MadVR uscaling on my HTPC when watching rips of my 1080p Blu-rays and there is definitely a difference. Maybe it's not as pronounced with Blu-ray players. I sold my Oppo 203 and only have the older Oppo 103, which is not really a 4K player, although it has 4K upscaling. I'll try to capture a better shot with actual movie content.


----------



## Viche

dimi123 said:


> I'm using MadVR uscaling on my HTPC when watching rips of my 1080p Blu-rays and there is definitely a difference. Maybe it's not as pronounced with Blu-ray players. I sold my Oppo 203 and only have the older Oppo 103, which is not really a 4K player, although it has 4K upscaling. I'll try to capture a better shot with actual movie content.



That would be interesting to see, though maybe not totally relevant. For the samples you previously posted, what resolution was your computer at for each one?


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## dimi123

Viche said:


> That would be interesting to see, though maybe not totally relevant. For the samples you previously posted, what resolution was you computer at for each one?


1920x1080, 30Hz, 12-bit 4:2:2 and 3840x2160, 30Hz, 12-bit 4:2:2.


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## Viche

dimi123 said:


> 1920x1080, 30Hz, 12-bit 4:2:2 and 3840x2160, 30Hz, 12-bit 4:2:2.



Okay, so that scenario doesn't really have anything to do with whether or not the Epson is better at scaling than an external device. The second image is better looking because it contains 4 times as much data.


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## dimi123

Viche said:


> Okay, so that scenario doesn't really have anything to do with whether or not the Epson is better at scaling than an external device. The second image is better looking because it contains 4 times as much data.


The PC is scaling the image. 125% with 1080p resolution and 250% with 2160p resolution.


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## Viche

dimi123 said:


> The PC is scaling the image. 125% with 1080p resolution and 250% with 2160p resolution.



So that in no way proves your assertion that:
"You'll get a much sharper picture with much less video noise if you let your blu-ray player or streaming device upscale and feed the Epson a 4K signal"


In your statement you were comparing a blu-ray player to the Epson scaling a *1080P *signal to 4k.
In your images, you are not doing that.


----------



## BillZ

*Who am I to question fate...*

I have been watching and waiting for a sale on the 5050UB that I could use to price match at BestBuy since I wanted to take advantage of the 24 months no interest financing. There has been exactly one unit in stock withing 60 miles or more from where I live. Today I had a scheduled appointment in Manhattan that was made 6 months ago. Otherwise I am never in the city, or near it, anymore. While there early this morning i check and see it is on sale pretty much everywhere, including Best Buy. My appointment was 2.5 miles from the Best Buy that had the one in stock. I literally drive by it on my way home. I was in and out in less than 10 minutes, carrying the lone stock 5050UB. Who was I to question fate.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I got my new AT Elite screen 115” 2:35:1 and it’s awesome. No more black bars it’s such a big upgrade. I am blown away. I now must use high lamp mode for HDR when I was able to do ECO prior. I have the projector on it’s box on an end table for the interim I will be moving my mount later this week. I have some Light spillage on the right and left side by two inches or so.
> 
> Per projector central I should have the lens 16 2” away from the screen to have the scope screen perfectly filled? If that could be confirmed that would be nice
> 
> Otherwise part of me is a little sad that on the few changing aspect ratio films I will be missing out, I guess I should get over that.
> 
> Anyways here are a few pics of LEGO Movie 2 Blu-Ray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the pictures very happy for you that you like your new acoustic transparent screen from Elite. Just curious if you were expecting that much of a light loss from the acoustically transparent screen that you can no longer use Echo mode I'm assuming with Alaric settings? Is that due to having to move your projector back so far or is it due to the perforations in the acoustically transparent screen leading to light loss? I know the acoustically transparent screens that Seymour sells come with a Black backing I believe it is supposed to significantly reduce any light loss. Did the elite screen come with any backing?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> dimi123 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using MadVR uscaling on my HTPC when watching rips of my 1080p Blu-rays and there is definitely a difference. Maybe it's not as pronounced with Blu-ray players. I sold my Oppo 203 and only have the older Oppo 103, which is not really a 4K player, although it has 4K upscaling. I'll try to capture a better shot with actual movie content.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be interesting to see, though maybe not totally relevant. For the samples you previously posted, what resolution was you computer at for each one?
Click to expand...

Just for posterity please keep in mind the images that dimi123 is posting are of the Epson 5040 not the 5050 so please understand he is posting pictures of the older model with first generation technology for pixel shifting and HDR processing


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thanks for the pictures very happy for you that you like your new acoustic transparent screen from Elite. Just curious if you were expecting that much of a light loss from the acoustically transparent screen that you can no longer use Echo mode I'm assuming with Alaric settings? Is that due to having to move your projector back so far or is it due to the perforations in the acoustically transparent screen leading to light loss? I know the acoustically transparent screens that Seymour sells come with a Black backing I believe it is supposed to significantly reduce any light loss. Did the elite screen come with any backing?




Yes, it came with black backing and that is meant to prevent light from reflecting back onto the screen. The high lamp mode is needed for two reasons. First the projector is about 4 to 5 feet further away and secondly the screen is 21 inches bigger for 2:35:1 content. On a 100 inch 16:9 screen it’s 93 or 94 inches diagonally to 115 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BillZ

GCS said:


> PSA - before running a new cable especially in 120+ degree attic make sure to take note of which end says source and which end says display. You guys can fill in the blanks as to my stupidity.


Chalk it up to heat stroke.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

GCS said:


> I too picked up the 5050 with the current sale price for the weekend.
> 
> Had it up and mounted in nothing flat except a cable issue.
> 
> PSA - before running a new cable especially in 120+ degree attic make sure to take note of which end says source and which end says display. You guys can fill in the blanks as to my stupidity.
> 
> 
> Only watched one full movie on it so far (Aquaman bluray not 4k disc) and it looks good. Its a definite upgrade over my old HC3000 but didn't blow me away. Granted the only 4k content I looked at so far was some stuff from Netflix which looked nice as well but not holy crap this is amazing. Bear in mind I have not tweaked any settings or anything just turned it on and tried it out.
> 
> Out of the box it is a lot brighter than my old HC3000 and the colors have way more pop to them as well. I can definitely see the difference in the blacks vs the HC3000 so that is welcomed change. Will have to see how everything pans out once I get some 4k discs and spend some more time with it.


You really need to try Alarics settings I have some basic ones you can try for Bluray. I came from a higher end model the 3700 and love the 5050UB for Blu-ray, the depth and punch with the deeper blacks is night and day. I think HDR is trickier to find the right settings and slider number to get fantastic results but you can definitely get there with tinkering. The Blu-rays just work with every title I throw at it. 


Try these with Blu-Ray if you dont want to use the in depth Alaric settings

Mode: Natural 
Brightness:45 Contrast:58 Color:52 Tint:50 Gamma:-1 Lens:-1 Color Temp:7000 Skin Tone:4 

Edit: I used to use these but now use Alaric's my iris is down near -10


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thanks for the pictures very happy for you that you like your new acoustic transparent screen from Elite. Just curious if you were expecting that much of a light loss from the acoustically transparent screen that you can no longer use Echo mode I'm assuming with Alaric settings? Is that due to having to move your projector back so far or is it due to the perforations in the acoustically transparent screen leading to light loss? I know the acoustically transparent screens that Seymour sells come with a Black backing I believe it is supposed to significantly reduce any light loss. Did the elite screen come with any backing?


The pictures on my Iphone do these screen shots justice. However, when I upload them online and view on a PC they look dim and have no punch to them. That's not representative to what I see in the room which kinda sucks. The picture looks very vivid in person.


----------



## jeahrens

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I got my new AT Elite screen 115” 2:35:1 and it’s awesome. No more black bars it’s such a big upgrade. I am blown away. I now must use high lamp mode for HDR when I was able to do ECO prior. I have the projector on it’s box on an end table for the interim I will be moving my mount later this week. I have some Light spillage on the right and left side by two inches or so.
> 
> Per projector central I should have the lens 16 2” away from the screen to have the scope screen perfectly filled? If that could be confirmed that would be nice
> 
> Otherwise part of me is a little sad that on the few changing aspect ratio films I will be missing out, I guess I should get over that.
> 
> Anyways here are a few pics of LEGO Movie 2 Blu-Ray
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Congrats on the new screen. I made the jump from 1.78:1 to 2.35:1 years ago and it was the biggest change in immersion I made since going to front projection.

Every shifting AR film that I've ran across that isn't directed by Nolan has been scope safe (many of his are as well). Meaning the scope version (which most of us likely saw) is taken directly from the center of the frame. So employing masking in your Epson to crop the film to scope means the picture is exactly what you saw if you watched in a non-IMAX theater.

For films you don't want to crop, just watch it in 1.78:1. Not really any different of an experience than watching it on a plain 1.78:1 screen. I look at it this way about 1% of my collection has shifting AR material, the other 99% looks amazing on a scope screen and has the presentation intended by the filmmaker. It's an easy choice as to whether I want to cater to 1% or 99%. Just watched The Green Book the other day. It has a 2.00:1 AR, hit the lens memory for that AR and viola - no black bars and more immersion than a 1.78:1 screen provides.

I just hope the shifting AR fad goes away. I'd much prefer it be all IMAX AR than shift.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

jeahrens said:


> Congrats on the new screen. I made the jump from 1.78:1 to 2.35:1 years ago and it was the biggest change in immersion I made since going to front projection.
> 
> 
> 
> Every shifting AR film that I've ran across that isn't directed by Nolan has been scope safe (many of his are as well). Meaning the scope version (which most of us likely saw) is taken directly from the center of the frame. So employing masking in your Epson to crop the film to scope means the picture is exactly what you saw if you watched in a non-IMAX theater.
> 
> 
> 
> For films you don't want to crop, just watch it in 1.78:1. Not really any different of an experience than watching it on a plain 1.78:1 screen. I look at it this way about 1% of my collection has shifting AR material, the other 99% looks amazing on a scope screen and has the presentation intended by the filmmaker. It's an easy choice as to whether I want to cater to 1% or 99%. Just watched The Green Book the other day. It has a 2.00:1 AR, hit the lens memory for that AR and viola - no black bars and more immersion than a 1.78:1 screen provides.
> 
> 
> 
> I just hope the shifting AR fad goes away. I'd much prefer it be all IMAX AR than shift.




Thanks for your input. My wife was really on the fence and took a lot of convincing but she is quite pleasantly surprised. I told her should LOTRs be on a bigger screen then The Office for example. You are correct to not worry about the 1% and focus on the far larger majority 


So for Aquaman for instance I should use the 16:9 setting or just blank the top and bottom? Can the blanking option be saved or does that have to be manually done? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Thanks for your input. My wife was really on the fence and took a lot of convincing but she is quite pleasantly surprised. I told her should LOTRs be on a bigger screen then The Office for example. You are correct to not worry about the 1% and focus on the far larger majority
> 
> 
> So for Aquaman for instance I should use the 16:9 setting or just blank the top and bottom? Can the blanking option be saved or does that have to be manually done?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Really it's a personal call. I think Aquaman (haven't seen it) stays mostly in the cropped IMAX AR (16:9), so that might be a case where you leave it in 16:9 and live with the occasional letterboxing. For films like MI:Fallout I would definitely employ masking. The end sequence is the only IMAX part and is completely scope safe. 

I can't comment on how the Epson does masking as I don't have one. I'm mainly lurking in here to get a feel on the 5050. I frequently get asked what to buy by friends and family and the Epson 5050 (and 5040 before it) hits a 4K price/perf ratio that is pretty unbeatable. A local AV shop has the 5050, I just haven't had time to sit down with it. Last time I was in the had a set of Sonus Fabers and the Epson 4050 playing Christine on 4K UHD in the front room and I just didn't make it any further. BTW that 4050 unit is quite a performer for someone who just can't quite get to the 5050 price point. Still, lurking in here has made me pretty confident I can give the same recommendation to the 5050 I did the 5040. Sorry I can't help with the masking question though


----------



## Luminated67

dimi123 said:


> Yes, but you are comparing two different blu-ray players /with different resolution and shots/ with one another.


True but it is recognised that the Hobbit series of discs are of very high 1080P quality which was why I used this example, though one image was from the Sony and the other the Panasonic the result is the same because I’ve tried it since I took these shots and on each occasion the Epson looked crispier. There’s also less motion effect leaving the signal as 1080P.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

jeahrens said:


> Really it's a personal call. I think Aquaman (haven't seen it) stays mostly in the cropped IMAX AR (16:9), so that might be a case where you leave it in 16:9 and live with the occasional letterboxing. For films like MI:Fallout I would definitely employ masking. The end sequence is the only IMAX part and is completely scope safe.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't comment on how the Epson does masking as I don't have one. I'm mainly lurking in here to get a feel on the 5050. I frequently get asked what to buy by friends and family and the Epson 5050 (and 5040 before it) hits a 4K price/perf ratio that is pretty unbeatable. A local AV shop has the 5050, I just haven't had time to sit down with it. Last time I was in the had a set of Sonus Fabers and the Epson 4050 playing Christine on 4K UHD in the front room and I just didn't make it any further. BTW that 4050 unit is quite a performer for someone who just can't quite get to the 5050 price point. Still, lurking in here has made me pretty confident I can give the same recommendation to the 5050 I did the 5040. Sorry I can't help with the masking question though




Appreciate your help anyways so thank you for taking the time. Not too many guys on this thread seem to have 2:35:1 screens




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Appreciate your help anyways so thank you for taking the time. *Not too many guys on this thread seem to have 2:35:1 screens*


A few more than you think! Like everyone, I had a 16:9 in the earlier years....2:35 the last ten or so as I grew to appreciate scope and CH!


----------



## GCS

CallingMrBenzo said:


> You really need to try Alarics settings I have some basic ones you can try for Bluray. I came from a higher end model the 3700 and love the 5050UB for Blu-ray, the depth and punch with the deeper blacks is night and day. I think HDR is trickier to find the right settings and slider number to get fantastic results but you can definitely get there with tinkering. The Blu-rays just work with every title I throw at it.
> 
> 
> Try these with Blu-Ray if you dont want to use the in depth Alaric settings
> 
> Mode: Natural
> Brightness:45 Contrast:58 Color:52 Tint:50 Gamma:-1 Lens:-1 Color Temp:7000 Skin Tone:4
> 
> Edit: I used to use these but now use Alaric's my iris is down near -10



I'll be giving these and Alaric's settings a go soon. Just need to get a few 4K discs to play with first. I have only one at the moment (John Wick) but have bought a bunch of used ones from the forum lately and should have them soon.





BillZ said:


> Chalk it up to heat stroke.



Not hardly. What's infuriating about it was that I set everything up out in the room first with the new cable just laying across the floor to the equipment closet. Wanted to be sure everything worked and the projector was worth bothering with or if I was returning it. Didn't want to do the work to mount it just to take it down.

So everything worked just fine. Did the take down of the old and up with the new. Went into the attic and pulled the new cable through. Came down and hooked it up to test and nothing no signal. I seriously wasted at least 45 mins trying different things (turn off turn on, switching inputs and outputs) I mean everything! I was raging. Wife comes in and asked how was it going after running to the store and I raged again. Then I hooked up the old cable across the floor, it worked. I was so ticked - how in the hell did I break a brand new cable just running it through and attic. So I hop back on the later and went to hook the new cable back and just happened to see SOURCE on the connector to the projector. An immediate ah ha and WTFS MFER look hit my face and demeanor and I went and checked the other end in the closet and it said DISPLAY. I then let out about 9000 obscenities and other made of words of some unknown origin and proceeded back to the attic and rerun the cable - 10 mins later I am up and running no problem.

I had no idea the cable was NOT bidirectional. I wasted over an hour with this BS and sweated off at least a few pounds (that was probably a plus actually) over something so ridiculously simple and beyond easy to avoid. Lesson learned for sure.

If my post saves just one person from this level of stupidity I will feel it was all worth it til then chalk it up to I dunno ... old age I guess.


----------



## utkinpol

hi, those not bidirectional hdmi cables - do they still provide hdmi functionality to control power switch on/off from projector to the receiver, and audio controls from projector into receiver?


----------



## GCS

utkinpol said:


> hi, those not bidirectional hdmi cables - do they still provide hdmi functionality to control power switch on/off from projector to the receiver, and audio controls from projector into receiver?



Once I had the cable installed the correct way everything worked fine. I can't tell you about audio to the projector since it all goes to my AVR but the receiver kicks on whenever I turn on the projector.


----------



## tsharp

Well, new guy in the thread although I've been lurking like crazy. 

Slated to have my basement finish starting in July, and I've had my eye set on 2.35:1 screen with a "4k" lens memory projector. Then the 5050 goes on sale! I got the one in stock at my local Best Buy and have not opened it in case I return it.

Working with my uncle who lives a couple hours away to do the home theater install - he owns a home theater business! He's been so busy we haven't had the chance to talk 2.35:1 and throw distance and projectors... But this projector seems to check all the boxes for me on lens memory, 4k, and price point.

Based on what I understand from all the projection calculators, in a light-controlled room, 20' away, with a 135" 2.35:1 screen, I should be golden, right? Am I missing something noobish?

Attaching a picture of the wall with the tape marked for a 135".


----------



## netwebber

dimi123 said:


> Maybe I should have phrased it differently. The Epson does not "upscale". It takes a 1080p signal and pixel shifts it, but when receiving a 2160p signal it down-scales it first to 1080p before pixel shifting. The difference comes from the down-scaling as the Epson /or JVC/ is processing more pixels.


This is not accurate. 1080p refers to video in which each frame is displayed entirely in 1080 complete horizonal lines.

With a "4x" pixel shifter, only 1920x1080 pixels are being projected at a time, but the projector isn't downscaling 2160p to 1080p. It's converting a 2160p video stream to a 1920x1080 video stream, at quadruple the framerate, that contains video information from different parts of each original frame. It's more like creating interlaced video, in which the even lines are displayed, then the odd, then even, etc. In this case, instead of alternate lines, it's four sequential lower-resolution versions of the 3840x2160 full frame. "2x" 4K pixel shifters use alternate 2716 x 1528 versions of each frame. 

When dealing with a 4K signal, there's no 1080p involved.


----------



## carmona

How does the 5050/6050 look with standard cable signals ( Spectrum ) from broadcast channels such as CBS, NBC, HBO ETC. Will be throwing the image from projector about 20 feet onto a 1.3 gain 150 inch diagonal screen in a light controlled environment. How bright in eco mode, for example, and what will the colors and contrast be like compared to a quality SONY TV.


----------



## ezelkow1

carmona said:


> How does the 5050/6050 look with standard cable signals ( Spectrum ) from broadcast channels such as CBS, NBC, HBO ETC. Will be throwing the image from projector about 20 feet onto a 1.3 gain 150 inch diagonal screen in a light controlled environment. How bright in eco mode, for example, and what will the colors and contrast be like compared to a quality SONY TV.


Eco is probably good enough (though I run at medium since it gives more of a Wow factor and Im at ~12ft for 100in, so you'll probably want to do medium but might be able to drop it to eco), depending on which preset you go with, either natural or bright cinema works fine.

You will notice broadcast artifacts much more though. Even compared to my 5040 which was 1080p, its instantly obvious now which shows are running higher bandwidth and resolution than others. More than that though is also pieces within shows you can tell were filmed at lower quality.

Some of that stuff already stood out, it always does when you're watching at 100in+, but it feels more so on the 5050. That being said when its a show thats given enough bandwidth and you have some of the enhancements turned on it can look fantastic, so it all really just comes down to the original content quality and how much bandwidth your provider is providing for the channel


----------



## carmona

ezelkow1 said:


> Eco is probably good enough (though I run at medium since it gives more of a Wow factor and Im at ~12ft for 100in, so you'll probably want to do medium but might be able to drop it to eco), depending on which preset you go with, either natural or bright cinema works fine.
> 
> You will notice broadcast artifacts much more though. Even compared to my 5040 which was 1080p, its instantly obvious now which shows are running higher bandwidth and resolution than others. More than that though is also pieces within shows you can tell were filmed at lower quality.
> 
> Some of that stuff already stood out, it always does when you're watching at 100in+, but it feels more so on the 5050. That being said when its a show thats given enough bandwidth and you have some of the enhancements turned on it can look fantastic, so it all really just comes down to the original content quality and how much bandwidth your provider is providing for the channel


Thanks so much for the prompt and kind reply. I presently have the Epson 5020 in the position I would theoretically place the 5050/6050..... so I hope that this should be a notable upgrade in visual performance.


----------



## ezelkow1

Oh sorry mistyped I was originally on a 5020 as well not a 5040. I do definitely notice more details and color over the 5020


----------



## sahil0909

groggrog said:


> Hi - just got a 5050 and am upgrading from a 4050. Any chance the 4050 spare bulb I have can work in the 5050? Assuming not but asking anyway.
> 
> Thanks


hey how are you? sorry im quoting an older post, i just wanted to request if you could share your opinion on the epson 4050 vs the 5050? since you had both, is the 5050 much better?
thank you


----------



## groggrog

sahil0909 said:


> hey how are you? sorry im quoting an older post, i just wanted to request if you could share your opinion on the epson 4050 vs the 5050? since you had both, is the 5050 much better?
> thank you



Hi Sahil -


5050 is definitely a worthwhile upgrade from 4050. Much better in daylight. Not perfect but makes it at least watchable when the 4050 wasn't. Finding that the nighttime picture is sharper overall as well.


----------



## oztheatre

Does anyone know why and when frame interpolation is grayed out? I did have it accessible but now it's grayed out.. strange.. must be a setting in there somewhere?


----------



## Alaric

oztheatre said:


> Does anyone know why and when frame interpolation is grayed out? I did have it accessible but now it's grayed out.. strange.. must be a setting in there somewhere?


Yup. Needs a 1080p or less signal. Projector info will tell you what you are actually feeding in as many things upscale and grey it out! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## oztheatre

Alaric said:


> Yup. Needs a 1080p or less signal. Projector info will tell you what you are actually feeding in as many things upscale and grey it out!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Yeah no good, I'm feeding it a 1080p show from media player and still grayed out. Are you saying there's no motion adjustments with 4K material?


----------



## Alaric

oztheatre said:


> Yeah no good, I'm feeding it a 1080p show from media player and still grayed out. Are you saying there's no motion adjustments with 4K material?


I'm betting that info on the pj will say whatever you are feeding it, is being upscaled regardless of what the original source is. No FI on 4k! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## oztheatre

Alaric said:


> I'm betting that info on the pj will say whatever you are feeding it, is being upscaled regardless of what the original source is. No FI on 4k!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Yeah it says 1080, it's just game of thrones.

I wonder if there's a firmware that might fix FI on 4K material? Is it not needed? 

Otherwise, spectacular projector!


----------



## Alaric

oztheatre said:


> Yeah it says 1080, it's just game of thrones.
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if there's a firmware that might fix FI on 4K material? Is it not needed?
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, spectacular projector!


The only firmware update adds the ability to use 4k enhancement and FI on a 1080p feed..... It may come later, but doubt it for a 4k signal.

If the pj sees a 1080p signal as shown in the info menu on the PJ, then FI should not be grayed out. 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

jeahrens said:


> Just watched The Green Book the other day. It has a 2.00:1 AR, hit the lens memory for that AR and viola - no black bars and more immersion than a 1.78:1 screen provides.


What do you do with 2.00:1 AR movies? crop off the top and bottom or live with bars on the left and right?


----------



## Gellert1

Alaric said:


> I'm betting that info on the pj will say whatever you are feeding it, is being upscaled regardless of what the original source is. No FI on 4k!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


My 5050ub was streaming Netflix this evening at 4K/60 and frame interpolation was fully adjustable within the menu from off to high. I had it off but it wasn't greyed out, I had options to choose. On low, the audio sync was about .25 second off until I turned it to off. BTW,the Netflix series "Dead To Me" looks great in 4K/60 👍👍


----------



## gates828

*3D Glasses*

So what’s the consensus on the best 3D glasses for the 5050? Best value?


----------



## oztheatre

Alaric said:


> The only firmware update adds the ability to use 4k enhancement and FI on a 1080p feed..... It may come later, but doubt it for a 4k signal.
> 
> If the pj sees a 1080p signal as shown in the info menu on the PJ, then FI should not be grayed out.
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Do you think it's needed for 4K material? Wish we could perfect motion from the player end but doubt that'll happen anytime ever.


----------



## Alaric

Gellert said:


> My 5050ub was streaming Netflix this evening at 4K/60 and frame interpolation was fully adjustable within the menu from off to high. I had it off but it wasn't greyed out, I had options to choose. On low, the audio sync was about .25 second off until I turned it to off. BTW,the Netflix series "Dead To Me" looks great in 4K/60


Sorry to be rude, but for that sort of claim, I would need a photo of the Projectors own Info menu to believe this. 

I've seen too many cases of people swearing blind that their projector is broken and FI doesn't work, only to sheepishly return after doing this check to find out the player or amp was scaling. I would expect the same here, though down....and if not, the image would give an idea of how to repeat it! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

oztheatre said:


> Do you think it's needed for 4K material? Wish we could perfect motion from the player end but doubt that'll happen anytime ever.


"Needed", No, certainly not. A *lot* of people, including most critical reviewers turn it off or set it low and always like the option to disable.

However other people, who are particularly sensitive to motion can find it helps. If you are one of these, to get 4k FI takes a new JVC and a lot more money 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## sahil0909

groggrog said:


> sahil0909 said:
> 
> 
> 
> hey how are you? sorry im quoting an older post, i just wanted to request if you could share your opinion on the epson 4050 vs the 5050? since you had both, is the 5050 much better?
> thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Sahil -
> 
> 
> 5050 is definitely a worthwhile upgrade from 4050. Much better in daylight. Not perfect but makes it at least watchable when the 4050 wasn't. Finding that the nighttime picture is sharper overall as well.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for your kind response, would you say the 4050 was dim, like with hdr content? i saw a good video comparison of the 5050 and 4050 projectors side by side with a 4k hdr movie playing if im not mistaken, and the 4050 appeared a little dim in contrast scenes. Was that your experience as well?


----------



## Alaric

gates828 said:


> So what’s the consensus on the best 3D glasses for the 5050? Best value?


I did a bit of a comparison here
https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home

All of the glasses create a significant light loss and have some form of color skew. 

My old Xpand have the least loss and skew, but are old, not that comfy and tricky to get hold of if you don't already have a pair. The next best are the Epson's in terms of measurement, lighter, comfier and easy to get hold of. They are however quite expensive and you can't change out the rechargeable battery, though you should get many years of service before they die!

The cheapest i've found are Samsung, which are very cheap, light and comfy. They don't block light from the edges and are a bit of an odd design. 

All of them have a skew though, so i'd recommend sticking to all one brand and getting a setting calibrated - You can pull over some settings from SDR stuff though and also the inbuilt 1-8 greyscale white patterns work for greyscale calibration, as irritatingly you can't FORCE the pj manually into 3D mode, so needs a special 3D disc to do it manually - I've yet to find a way to get HCFR inbuilt patterns to run in 3D


----------



## teachsac

*Price talk, sales talk, deals, and retail links are not permitted outside of the deal's area. Posts and associated quotes removed. Please stick to technical discussions.*

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...price-talk-where-buy-outside-deals-forum.html


----------



## jeahrens

Viche said:


> What do you do with 2.00:1 AR movies? crop off the top and bottom or live with bars on the left and right?


Since 2.35:1 is wider than 2.00:1 you zoom the picture until the top/bottom of the image fills the screen and save the lens memory. This leaves pillarboxing on the left/right but crops nothing. Same thing for 2.20:1 content. The wider you get the less pillarboxing there is. The attached picture should help you visualize how the ARs are shown on a scope screen vs. a TV ratio 16:9 screen.


----------



## ckronengold

tsharp said:


> based on what i understand from all the projection calculators, in a light-controlled room, 20' away, with a 135" 2.35:1 screen, i should be golden, right? Am i missing something noobish?


golden.


----------



## tsharp

ckronengold said:


> golden.


Exciting to get confirmation! I'm a very visual person, so it's hard for me to trust my imagination. Will return to my lurking...


----------



## groggrog

sahil0909 said:


> Thank you very much for your kind response, would you say the 4050 was dim, like with hdr content? i saw a good video comparison of the 5050 and 4050 projectors side by side with a 4k hdr movie playing if im not mistaken, and the 4050 appeared a little dim in contrast scenes. Was that your experience as well?


The 5050 is slightly brighter. 4050 was slightly dim and after adjusting brightness it was better especially at night. I think the 5050 is a nice upgrade from 4050 in picture quality overall. Not that the 4050 is bad by any means, but the 5050 takes it up a notch.


----------



## Maestrosc

Has anyone measured the lumen output on these and compared them to the advertised? I know the RS4500 advertises 3000 but was measured to only actually put out 2600. Would love to know actually measured output of these units?


Am looking for a solution for a 140" wide .8 gain screen. Anyone with a similar setup, if you would share your experiences with a similar setup, let me know,.


----------



## Viche

jeahrens said:


> Since 2.35:1 is wider than 2.00:1 you zoom the picture until the top/bottom of the image fills the screen and save the lens memory. This leaves pillarboxing on the left/right but crops nothing. Same thing for 2.20:1 content. The wider you get the less pillarboxing there is. The attached picture should help you visualize how the ARs are shown on a scope screen vs. a TV ratio 16:9 screen.



Got it. So you take the Constant Height approach. What if the image is 2.4:1. Guess you have to pillar box the top and bottom...


----------



## Alaric

Maestrosc said:


> Has anyone measured the lumen output on these and compared them to the advertised? I know the RS4500 advertises 3000 but was measured to only actually put out 2600. Would love to know actually measured output of these units?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am looking for a solution for a 140" wide .8 gain screen. Anyone with a similar setup, if you would share your experiences with a similar setup, let me know,.


The projector reviews one has lumen output and it is manufacturer lower rated than what it puts out, ie it is brighter!
Though it does depend on the mode and particularly if you use the filter or high power mode! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

Viche said:


> Got it. So you take the Constant Height approach. What if the image is 2.4:1. Guess you have to pillar box the top and bottom...


2.35:1/2.40:1 are within inches of each other for the most part. When a movie says one or the other on the case it can really vary. Sometimes I will get razor thin letterbox bars, sometimes an inch of overscan. Neither are noticeable unless you are right on top of the screen. The only time you would actually notice any letterboxing would be with The Hateful Eight and it's 2.76:1 AR. Still a much better presentation than a 1.78:1 screen will offer with that title.


----------



## seplant

Alaric said:


> You can pull over some settings from SDR stuff though and also the inbuilt 1-8 greyscale white patterns work for greyscale calibration, *as irritatingly you can't FORCE the pj manually into 3D mode*, so needs a special 3D disc to do it manually - I've yet to find a way to get HCFR inbuilt patterns to run in 3D


The 5040/6040 can be forced into 3D mode, so I'd be surprised if the 5050/6050 couldn't be. On the 5040/6040, it was just a matter of going to Signal > 3D Setup > 2D-to-3D Conversion. I used this setting with HCFR built-in patterns several times with no issues.


----------



## Liquid$team

BillZ said:


> Chalk it up to heat stroke.


Did the same thing.... except through a conduit the wall not an attic. lol It sucked


----------



## Alaric

seplant said:


> The 5040/6040 can be forced into 3D mode, so I'd be surprised if the 5050/6050 couldn't be. On the 5040/6040, it was just a matter of going to Signal > 3D Setup > 2D-to-3D Conversion. I used this setting with HCFR built-in patterns several times with no issues.


Interesting.... 3D setup has an auto, 2D and 3D modes.... 3D gives access to side by side and top and bottom, neither of which i know much about and gives a quite peculiar picture! 
However crucially for calibration, it drops into the 3D color modes and as such should work with HCFR!
Thank You! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## Liquid$team

The PC6050 is listed on the Epson website as having 20% more contrast. Is that accurate? Is that the only performance difference? Anyone see a head to head yet?

nevermind I found a head to head posted an hour ago on you tube


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Liquid$team said:


> The PC6050 is listed on the Epson website as having 20% more contrast. Is that accurate? Is that the only performance difference? Anyone see a head to head yet?
> 
> nevermind I found a head to head posted an hour ago on you tube https://youtu.be/f-OpwDCagDc


Good video but they didn't seem to try adjusting settings on the 5050 to match the 6050, especially the sharpness. If this is truly how detailed the PQ looks on the 6050, it may be worth the extra money all things considered. I want to see a similar comparison post calibration.

Come to think of it, I do recall some 5050 owners saying a replacement 5050 they received due to an issue had a sharper image than the one they originally had. Perhaps not all 5050s are created equal.


----------



## Liquid$team

MidnightWatcher said:


> Good video but they didn't seem to try adjusting settings on the 5050 to match the 6050, especially the sharpness. If this is truly how detailed the PQ looks on the 6050, it may be worth the extra money all things considered. I want to see a similar comparison post calibration.
> 
> Come to think of it, I do recall some 5050 owners saying a replacement 5050 they received due to an issue had a sharper image than the one they originally had. Perhaps not all 5050s are created equal.


There have been multiple 5050 owners that needed replacement units already? What were the issues? Not power supply again was it?


----------



## MidnightWatcher

No, I believe it was something different.


----------



## Luminated67

Liquid$team said:


> There have been multiple 5050 owners that needed replacement units already? What were the issues? Not power supply again was it?


Nope the issue seems to centre around the lamp itself, this was my issue and I recall three others on the UK forum with this same problem.


----------



## sahil0909

groggrog said:


> sahil0909 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for your kind response, would you say the 4050 was dim, like with hdr content? i saw a good video comparison of the 5050 and 4050 projectors side by side with a 4k hdr movie playing if im not mistaken, and the 4050 appeared a little dim in contrast scenes. Was that your experience as well?
> 
> 
> 
> The 5050 is slightly brighter. 4050 was slightly dim and after adjusting brightness it was better especially at night. I think the 5050 is a nice upgrade from 4050 in picture quality overall. Not that the 4050 is bad by any means, but the 5050 takes it up a notch.
Click to expand...

Thanks once again, thats really helpful since im trying to compare between these two projectors currently to see which i would prefer, my main concern about the 4010, was what i saw in a comparison video, in 4k hdr content where the 4010 seemed to show the normal dimness of the overall picture as ive seen with hdr on some tvs whereas with the 5050 the whole overall picture seemed to stay bright without dimming. But based on what you said that the 5050 is just slightly brighter, and based also on the brightness measurements that projectorreviews showed for hdr content on both the 5050 and 4010, which were both very close! it seems like there shouldnt be much of a difference in hdr content, i dont know if both the projectors were in the same picture mode in that comparison or if one was in a different mode. 

Is it possible for you to see the video and share with me if that is the difference you saw in real life viewing of hdr on both these projectors? Sorry for the trouble, would really appreciate it. 

Here is the link: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=efhqPjlV1d4 

At about 7:55 you can see the first pic comparison where the 4010 really looks dim, at 11 minutes especially, you can see half on thanos' face, and also the whole image looks so dark on the 4010 its really surprising, especially considering that the lumens measurement for the 4k hdr mode are almost equal for both from what i saw in projectorreviews.

It would be really helpful if you could let me know if this is what you saw in real life hdr viewing on both these projectors in the same modes.

Thank you very much for your assistance.


----------



## groggrog

sahil0909 said:


> Thanks once again, thats really helpful since im trying to compare between these two projectors currently to see which i would prefer, my main concern about the 4010, was what i saw in a comparison video, in 4k hdr content where the 4010 seemed to show the normal dimness of the overall picture as ive seen with hdr on some tvs whereas with the 5050 the whole overall picture seemed to stay bright without dimming. But based on what you said that the 5050 is just slightly brighter, and based also on the brightness measurements that projectorreviews showed for hdr content on both the 5050 and 4010, which were both very close! it seems like there shouldnt be much of a difference in hdr content, i dont know if both the projectors were in the same picture mode in that comparison or if one was in a different mode.
> 
> Is it possible for you to see the video and share with me if that is the difference you saw in real life viewing of hdr on both these projectors? Sorry for the trouble, would really appreciate it.
> 
> Here is the link: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=efhqPjlV1d4
> 
> At about 7:55 you can see the first pic comparison where the 4010 really looks dim, at 11 minutes especially, you can see half on thanos' face, and also the whole image looks so dark on the 4010 its really surprising, especially considering that the lumens measurement for the 4k hdr mode are almost equal for both from what i saw in projectorreviews.
> 
> It would be really helpful if you could let me know if this is what you saw in real life hdr viewing on both these projectors in the same modes.
> 
> Thank you very much for your assistance.



I don't have the 4050 anymore so can't do that comparison...


----------



## sahil0909

groggrog said:


> sahil0909 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks once again, thats really helpful since im trying to compare between these two projectors currently to see which i would prefer, my main concern about the 4010, was what i saw in a comparison video, in 4k hdr content where the 4010 seemed to show the normal dimness of the overall picture as ive seen with hdr on some tvs whereas with the 5050 the whole overall picture seemed to stay bright without dimming. But based on what you said that the 5050 is just slightly brighter, and based also on the brightness measurements that projectorreviews showed for hdr content on both the 5050 and 4010, which were both very close! it seems like there shouldnt be much of a difference in hdr content, i dont know if both the projectors were in the same picture mode in that comparison or if one was in a different mode.
> 
> Is it possible for you to see the video and share with me if that is the difference you saw in real life viewing of hdr on both these projectors? Sorry for the trouble, would really appreciate it.
> 
> Here is the link: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=efhqPjlV1d4
> 
> At about 7:55 you can see the first pic comparison where the 4010 really looks dim, at 11 minutes especially, you can see half on thanos' face, and also the whole image looks so dark on the 4010 its really surprising, especially considering that the lumens measurement for the 4k hdr mode are almost equal for both from what i saw in projectorreviews.
> 
> It would be really helpful if you could let me know if this is what you saw in real life hdr viewing on both these projectors in the same modes.
> 
> Thank you very much for your assistance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have the 4050 anymore so can't do that comparison...
Click to expand...

No i mean like when youve used both these projectors, have you noticed a difference as big as this?
Thanks


----------



## Robert Crewse

I recently made the jump from an Epson 4010 to the 5050UB, and I thought that the brief video demonstrating HDR content may not be the best representation of the differences between the two projectors. If I recall correctly, my Epson 4010 defaulted to Dynamic Range HDR setting 2, which is not the brightest setting, and made HDR content look pretty dim. Adjusting to the brighter level 1 setting helped brighten things up, but not to the level of brightness available with the HDR slider settings on the 5050.

While the 5050 does seem to be a little brighter than the 4010 with similar settings, I didn’t find the 4010 to be lacking in brightness; The 4010 did put out a beautiful picture. That being said, I did find out that no adjustments made to the 4010 could produce an image that would satisfy my desire for deep blacks and the high contrast I grew accustomed to through years of Plasma ownership. After tuning the 5050 to Alaric’s settings (Thank you!), I am very satisfied with the picture quality I’m seeing now.


----------



## sahil0909

Robert Crewse said:


> I recently made the jump from an Epson 4010 to the 5050UB, and I thought that the brief video demonstrating HDR content may not be the best representation of the differences between the two projectors. If I recall correctly, my Epson 4010 defaulted to Dynamic Range HDR setting 2, which is not the brightest setting, and made HDR content look pretty dim. Adjusting to the brighter level 1 setting helped brighten things up, but not to the level of brightness available with the HDR slider settings on the 5050.
> 
> While the 5050 does seem to be a little brighter than the 4010 with similar settings, I didn’t find the 4010 to be lacking in brightness; The 4010 did put out a beautiful picture. That being said, I did find out that no adjustments made to the 4010 could produce an image that would satisfy my desire for deep blacks and the high contrast I grew accustomed to through years of Plasma ownership. After tuning the 5050 to Alaric’s settings (Thank you!), I am very satisfied with the picture quality I’m seeing now.


Thank you very much for your kind reply and help, this is really very helpful !! Especially since now i finally have the answers to what has been confusing me for some while. i think ive also figured out why the video comparison was showing the 4010 so dim, it might be the camera angles fault. finally ive got the answers ive been looking for and your reply is very helpful. Thanks again, and thanks very much to @groggrog as well for your kind replies.


----------



## DanGraney

So I picked my 5050 up yesterday, did a simple swap with the 5040 I had suspended from the ceiling and was immediately jarred by the brightness. Yowza, I have some tweaking to do. 

I seem to be having some handshake issues (which I didn’t have with the 5040) and any signal coming from my Pioneer SC-97. I had 4K/60p 4:4:4 set to input into the AVR, and nothing seemed to pass. So I switched that to 4K/60p 4:2:0 and everything worked... not sure why that setting worked for 5040, though. 

Then I powered up my PS4 Pro and no HDR/60. Also no HDR from the AppleTV. I suspect my 50’ Bugubird HDMI cable is at fault, so I purchased 50’ fiber HDMI cable which I’ll hook up and test tomorrow. 

So, some handshake things to work through and some calibration to do. All part of owning a projector. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## dan1210

Liquid$team said:


> The PC6050 is listed on the Epson website as having 20% more contrast. Is that accurate? Is that the only performance difference? Anyone see a head to head yet?
> 
> nevermind I found a head to head posted an hour ago on you tube https://youtu.be/f-OpwDCagDc


I saw this this morning, the 6050 certainly seems to have better contrast in this video, both straight out of the box settings.


----------



## rbk123

Luminated67 said:


> Nope the issue seems to centre around the lamp itself, this was my issue and I recall three others on the UK forum with this same problem.


Are you and the others getting 6050's (or the Euro equivalent) as replacement units like Skylarlove did? If they took care of him, I'd hope they'd take care of you equally.


----------



## Luminated67

rbk123 said:


> Are you and the others getting 6050's (or the Euro equivalent) as replacement units like Skylarlove did? If they took care of him, I'd hope they'd take care of you equally.


The TW9400 is basically the 6050. Though I had the same issue as the rest my fault occurred just outside of the 30 day replacement policy but it seems to have been a very minor fault as it took a total of 3 day including transit there and back.

BWT any issue people are having with handshake are almost certainly to do with HDMI leads.


----------



## Viche

DanGraney said:


> So I picked my 5050 up yesterday, did a simple swap with the 5040 I had suspended from the ceiling and was immediately jarred by the brightness. Yowza, I have some tweaking to do.
> 
> I seem to be having some handshake issues (which I didn’t have with the 5040) and any signal coming from my Pioneer SC-97. I had 4K/60p 4:4:4 set to input into the AVR, and nothing seemed to pass. So I switched that to 4K/60p 4:2:0 and everything worked... not sure why that setting worked for 5040, though.
> 
> Then I powered up my PS4 Pro and no HDR/60. Also no HDR from the AppleTV. I suspect my 50’ Bugubird HDMI cable is at fault, so I purchased 50’ fiber HDMI cable which I’ll hook up and test tomorrow.
> 
> So, some handshake things to work through and some calibration to do. All part of owning a projector.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


How many hours on the 5040 bulb?


----------



## drober30

*Upgrading from 5010 to 6050!*

I ordered a 6050UB and it will be replacing my Epson 5010. I have high hopes that I will be blown away by the improvement in picture quality!


My 5010 still looks great and has served me well, I will sell it to offset the cost of my upgrade and plan on the 6050 to hold me over for another 3-5 years.


----------



## jtorrence3

I ordered a 5050, but I think I'm having a change of heart - in favor of the 6050 😜

Anyone recommend a dealer they had good experience with, particularly for that projector? I'll check out the sponsors of course, but I'd love personal feedback and experiences. Please feel free to pm me if you like. I really appreciate any help!


----------



## ricwhite

drober30 said:


> I ordered a 6050UB and it will be replacing my Epson 5010. I have high hopes that I will be blown away by the improvement in picture quality!
> 
> 
> My 5010 still looks great and has served me well, I will sell it to offset the cost of my upgrade and plan on the 6050 to hold me over for another 3-5 years.


Please post your impressions when you get a chance. I currently have a 6010 and have the 6050UB on my list as a possible replacement. I would be very interested in your observations between the 5010 and the 6050.


----------



## drober30

ricwhite said:


> Please post your impressions when you get a chance. I currently have a 6010 and have the 6050UB on my list as a possible replacement. I would be very interested in your observations between the 5010 and the 6050.


Most definitely will! Just have to decide on a paint color and get some paint on the walls...


----------



## skylarlove1999

jtorrence3 said:


> I ordered a 5050, but I think I'm having a change of heart - in favor of the 6050 😜
> 
> Anyone recommend a dealer they had good experience with, particularly for that projector? I'll check out the sponsors of course, but I'd love personal feedback and experiences. Please feel free to pm me if you like. I really appreciate any help!


 https://www.bestbuy.com/site/epson-...h-dynamic-range-black/6344892.p?skuId=6344892

24 month free financing. They do have a restocking fee so be positive before you purchase.


----------



## DanGraney

Viche said:


> How many hours on the 5040 bulb?


I believe about 1600 hours.


----------



## jtorrence3

skylarlove1999 said:


> 24 month free financing. They do have a restocking fee so be positive before you purchase.


Thanks for the suggestion. The financing is a plus, for sure. I hoped with a dealer I might be able to find a somewhat better deal, especially with the 5050 being 200 off right now. 

I'll look into it. Thanks again! It's frustrating - seems like finding dealers requires being part of a secret club or something. Anyone have the passcode? 😂


----------



## skylarlove1999

jtorrence3 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 24 month free financing. They do have a restocking fee so be positive before you purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. The financing is a plus, for sure. I hoped with a dealer I might be able to find a somewhat better deal, especially with the 5050 being 200 off right now.
> 
> I'll look into it. Thanks again! It's frustrating - seems like finding dealers requires being part of a secret club or something. Anyone have the passcode? 😂
Click to expand...

https://dreamediaav.com/

They have a good reputation. They make some install videos on YouTube. They are authorized to sell Epson.They ship nationwide and they have the 6050 in stock. Epson projectors generally sell for MSRP even with dealers. Good luck.

https://www.worldwidestereo.com/?gc...p-_rvK_S5nNqGx-ovD0Eh32ZqgJujz0BoCDlEQAvD_BwE

I have dealt with World Wide Stereo personally they have been excellent. They have been in business since 1979 and are authorized Epson dealers who sell Nationwide and ship Nationwide. Once again I doubt you're going to find anybody at this point Who's going to go lower than the manufacturer suggested price.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rbk123 said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nope the issue seems to centre around the lamp itself, this was my issue and I recall three others on the UK forum with this same problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you and the others getting 6050's (or the Euro equivalent) as replacement units like Skylarlove did? If they took care of him, I'd hope they'd take care of you equally.
Click to expand...

The only reason I received the 6050 was I had two 5040's fail due to power supply issues and the 5050 they sent me as a replacement also failed. At that point Epson did step up and get me a 6050 for which I am very grateful and appreciative. I would not expect the same from Epson for just a one time 5050 failure. I live out in the country and it quite a trek to return 3 projectors and take 3 days off from work to wait for a new projector each time. As always YMMV.


----------



## jtorrence3

@skylarlove1999 thanks so much for your help with this, really appreciated.


----------



## ricwhite

skylarlove1999 said:


> The only reason I received the 6050 was I had two 5040's fail due to power supply issues and the 5050 they sent me as a replacement also failed. At that point Epson did step up and get me a 6050 for which I am very grateful and appreciative. I would not expect the same from Epson for just a one time 5050 failure. I live out in the country and it quite a trek to return 3 projectors and take 3 days off from work to wait for a new projector each time. As always YMMV.


Was the 5050 failure also a power supply issue? That is very concerning if the 5050 has the same issues as the 5040.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ricwhite said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The only reason I received the 6050 was I had two 5040's fail due to power supply issues and the 5050 they sent me as a replacement also failed. At that point Epson did step up and get me a 6050 for which I am very grateful and appreciative. I would not expect the same from Epson for just a one time 5050 failure. I live out in the country and it quite a trek to return 3 projectors and take 3 days off from work to wait for a new projector each time. As always YMMV.
> 
> 
> 
> Was the 5050 failure also a power supply issue? That is very concerning if the 5050 has the same issues as the 5040.
Click to expand...

Full disclosure, I did run the two 5040's with a 35 ft heavy duty extension cord and did the same with the 5050. The manuals for those projectors all state that is acceptable. Epson senior product support states that should not cause any issue either. 

Not sure if it was the same issue as the 5040 but yes my 5050 worked for about two weeks and then it flashed blue for three minutes and then yellow and then it turned itself off. This only happened once and it worked for about two weeks after that one instance but at that point I had been through enough. 

That is when I got into contact with Epson senior management who did a great job understanding my situation. Very similar experience with both the 5050 and 5040 accept the 5040's did it over and over and then completely died. 

I wanted to rule out my setup as the source of the power issues so I had my electrician install a 20 amp dedicated line from the 6050 to my breaker panel just to eliminate my setup as the cause. I have had my 6050 for two weeks now and it is an amazing projector.


----------



## ricwhite

skylarlove1999 said:


> Full disclosure, I did run the two 5040's with a 35 ft heavy duty extension cord and did the same with the 5050. The manuals for those projectors all state that is acceptable. Epson senior product support states that should not cause any issue either.
> 
> Not sure if it was the same issue as the 5040 but yes my 5050 worked for about two weeks and then it flashed blue for three minutes and then yellow and then it turned itself off. This only happened once and it worked for about two weeks after that one instance but at that point I had been through enough.
> 
> That is when I got into contact with Epson senior management who did a great job understanding my situation. Very similar experience with both the 5050 and 5040 accept the 5040's did it over and over and then completely died.
> 
> I wanted to rule out my setup as the source of the power issues so I had my electrician install a 20 amp dedicated line from the 6050 to my breaker panel just to eliminate my setup as the cause. I have had my 6050 for two weeks now and it is an amazing projector.


Did you see any difference at all between the 5050 and the 6050? The 6050 specs are a little higher, but in my past experience, the 5000 and 6000 series were identical in performance. I'm not sure why they list the 6050 as "better" performing. The differences in the past have all been cosmetic - a black case, an extra lamp, a mount, an additional year of warranty. If the 6050 is actually better performing than the 5050, that would be a first. Just wondered what you noticed.


----------



## sahil0909

JewDaddy said:


> Correct. I had my settings dialed in very nicely on the 5040 as well and now that I have them dialed in on the 5050 (for the most part) I see an improvement but not leaps and bounds over the 5040. I wanted to be blown away like you have been but I’m not. I’m glad I upgraded because I was so tired of trying to figure out how to get 4K HDR 60hz and using a Linker and then that throws some of my other devices off, etc etc.
> 
> So if I compared the settings I had in HDR on the 5040 and what I’m seeing in HDR now on the 5050, I would say overall I notice about a 10-15% improvement. Colors, sharpness, black levels look the same to me but with the new HDR slider, I am noticing better highlights in the HDR picture. Keep in mind I have a Panasonic 4K player that had an HDR luminance slider that pretty much already did what the 5050 does now so I was already getting increased brightness and highlights.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hey how are you? i just wanted to request your opinion on something if it's okay with you please, i'm currently debating between the epson 4010 and the 5050. The 4010 is perfect for me except just one thing, 4k hdr gaming. Which is available on the 5050 due to the hdmi but not on the 4010. This is literally the only thing that's concerning me right now, since im personally not interested in any other improvements which come with the 5050. So i wanted to ask your opinion since you seem like the right person to ask, since i see you've had the 5040 (which has the hdmi shortcoming just like the 4010), you've also had the linker on the 5040, and you now have the 5050. i'd really appreciate your opinion.
the questions i wanted to ask you are:
1. How big was the improvement in quality from the 5040 4k sdr gaming, to the 5040 4k hdr gaming with the linker?
2. How big was the improvement in quality from the 5040 4k hdr gaming with the linker, to the 5050 4k hdr gaming without linker? 
i hope to also learn from this whether the hdr capabilities added by the linker are really at the same level, and really improve the picture just as much as actual hdr on a capable display like the 5050.

Lastly, im not fascinated by 4k hdr gaming just to get to see that 'im playing in 4k hdr', but its just in order to get the better picture quality, so with that being said would you say that for someone like me, for whom the 4010 is perfect in every other way, would it really be worth spending all that extra money for the 5050 JUST to get games in 4k hdr over 4k sdr on the 4010? (Purely in terms of picture quality)

Thank you very much


----------



## Liquid$team

jtorrence3 said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. The financing is a plus, for sure. I hoped with a dealer I might be able to find a somewhat better deal, especially with the 5050 being 200 off right now.
> 
> I'll look into it. Thanks again! It's frustrating - seems like finding dealers requires being part of a secret club or something. Anyone have the passcode? 😂


I know a dealer in NH that will give a discount on PC6050's and Dream Media on you tube will give a discount for their subscribers as well.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Well poop hate being one of the first to buy and miss out. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Liquid$team

ricwhite said:


> Did you see any difference at all between the 5050 and the 6050? The 6050 specs are a little higher, but in my past experience, the 5000 and 6000 series were identical in performance. I'm not sure why they list the 6050 as "better" performing. The differences in the past have all been cosmetic - a black case, an extra lamp, a mount, an additional year of warranty. If the 6050 is actually better performing than the 5050, that would be a first. Just wondered what you noticed.


The specs on this new iteration of Epson 5050 vs 6050 are no longer the same. The 6050 has a 20% higher contrast number. Is it visibly different? Thats what I am trying to find out. So few people actually have a 6050 to compare though so it close to impossible. I only found the video from Dreamedia on you tube comparing them. They claim they can see a difference.... but to me the video posted on you tube is inconclusive. but again that's a you tube video so take it for what it's worth.


----------



## ricwhite

Liquid$team said:


> The specs on this new iteration of Epson 5050 vs 6050 are no longer the same. The 6050 has a 20% higher contrast number. Is it visibly different? Thats what I am trying to find out. So few people actually have a 6050 to compare though so it close to impossible. I only found the video from Dreamedia on you tube comparing them. They claim they can see a difference.... but to me the video posted on you tube is inconclusive. but again that's a you tube video so take it for what it's worth.


Comparing the 6050 to the 5050 would need to be a "blind" test. Expectations will play a role in what is perceived. If you are told the 6050 is 20% better and that is what you expect to see, then you just might see a difference even if there isn't one. The only true way to compare is if you don't actually know which projector is projecting the image at a given time. So, that makes comparisons even harder to do.


----------



## Liquid$team

ricwhite said:


> Comparing the 6050 to the 5050 would need to be a "blind" test. Expectations will play a role in what is perceived. If you are told the 6050 is 20% better and that is what you expect to see, then you just might see a difference even if there isn't one. The only true way to compare is if you don't actually know which projector is projecting the image at a given time. So, that makes comparisons even harder to do.


100% agree. The funny thing is the comparison video was a blind test to me as I missed where they said which side was which projector.... and the whole time I was thinking that the left side was better... turned out it was the 5050.... which might well be true. The problem is I just don't trust video and audio on quality coming from you tube. it needs to be compared in person. So at that point all you can do is trust what the person comparing is seeing.

As far as specs go I have often bought and paid extra for specs and many times been disappointed. Sometimes specs are just not that obvious in the real world.


----------



## Liquid$team

To make things even more unclear for myself I have been offered a used 6040 at half the price of a 6050. It's difficult to decide if a 6050 is worth that extra money.


----------



## carmona

I presently have the Epson 5020Ub. When I watch 3D movies using this projector, I wear the authentic Epson brand 3D eyeglasses which were recommended by Epson. Does anyone know if the 3D glasses which function so well with the 5020 can be used with the 6050 or 5050 ? Thanks for any advice.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Liquid$team said:


> ricwhite said:
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing the 6050 to the 5050 would need to be a "blind" test. Expectations will play a role in what is perceived. If you are told the 6050 is 20% better and that is what you expect to see, then you just might see a difference even if there isn't one. The only true way to compare is if you don't actually know which projector is projecting the image at a given time. So, that makes comparisons even harder to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 100% agree. The funny thing is the comparison video was a blind test to me as I missed where they said which side was which projector.... and the whole time I was thinking that the left side was better... turned out it was the 5050.... which might well be true. The problem is I just don't trust video and audio on quality coming from you tube. it needs to be compared in person. So at that point all you can do is trust what the person comparing is seeing.
> 
> As far as specs go I have often bought and paid extra for specs and many times been disappointed. Sometimes specs are just not that obvious in the real world.
Click to expand...

I would agree that trying to use any videos posted anywhere or any pictures posted anywhere it's probably not the best way to decide which projector is the best one for you and your room conditions. I had the 5050 for about a month and I thought it was really good for HDR SDR. I think the 6050 does have perceived better contrast slightly better black level and more detail and Sharper Image. I did not have them in a side-by-side in a blind test. When we attended the event in New York City for the unveiling of the Epson 6050 Rodrigo Catalan the North American Senior product manager for Epson said they take the better Optical lens for the 6050 and that is how they achieve the better contrast.


----------



## Liquid$team

skylarlove1999 said:


> I would agree that trying to use any videos posted anywhere or any pictures posted anywhere it's probably not the best way to decide which projector is the best one for you and your room conditions. I had the 5050 for about a month and I thought it was really good for HDR SDR. I think the 6050 does have perceived better contrast slightly better black level and more detail and Sharper Image. I did not have them in a side-by-side in a blind test. When we attended the event in New York City for the unveiling of the Epson 6050 Rodrigo Catalan the North American Senior product manager for Epson said they take the better Optical lens for the 6050 and that is how they achieve the better contrast.


So Epson gave the 6050 a totally different lens than the 5050?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Liquid$team said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would agree that trying to use any videos posted anywhere or any pictures posted anywhere it's probably not the best way to decide which projector is the best one for you and your room conditions. I had the 5050 for about a month and I thought it was really good for HDR SDR. I think the 6050 does have perceived better contrast slightly better black level and more detail and Sharper Image. I did not have them in a side-by-side in a blind test. When we attended the event in New York City for the unveiling of the Epson 6050 Rodrigo Catalan the North American Senior product manager for Epson said they take the better Optical lens for the 6050 and that is how they achieve the better contrast.
> 
> 
> 
> So Epson gave the 6050 a totally different lens than the 5050?
Click to expand...

The way that Rodrigo explained it is that they do a quality control check on all the Optical lenses and the best ones are diverted to the 6050 they are the ones that are capable of producing that 1.2 million to 1 contrast ratio or better. I would say that it is possible however unlikely that's some of the higher quality lenses might by accident make their way into the occasional 5050 but every 6050 should have the better lens.


----------



## misterg51

skylarlove1999 said:


> The way that Rodrigo explained it is that they do a quality control check on all the Optical lenses and the best ones are diverted to the 6050 they are the ones that are capable of producing that 1.2 million to 1 contrast ratio or better. I would say that it is possible however unlikely that's some of the higher quality lenses might by accident make their way into the occasional 5050 but every 6050 should have the better lens.



If their quality control on parts is that bad for the remainder (5050) they have bigger problems than the difference between the projectors. Over the years Pioneer Elite and Sony upper end products did sound better. They had to in the minds of those that payed the higher price. I watched the comparison video and depending on the scene, I bounced back and forth as to which is better. And, not enough to pay the difference when both are the HDMI 2.0a..... and 2.1 is coming out shortly. Peace.


----------



## misterg51

Bit the bullet and getting the 5050 tomorrow at my door. Will leave my 5040 mounted and then A/B and see if I can get 4k 60 out of my XBox One X. Had a Linker that caused me fits until I took it out.


I'll report back in a few days whether it is a big improvement, or it is going back to Amazon. Had to perform too many feats of magic on the 5040 to make all the sources operate correctly and look like I wanted them to after calibration.


----------



## skylarlove1999

misterg51 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The way that Rodrigo explained it is that they do a quality control check on all the Optical lenses and the best ones are diverted to the 6050 they are the ones that are capable of producing that 1.2 million to 1 contrast ratio or better. I would say that it is possible however unlikely that's some of the higher quality lenses might by accident make their way into the occasional 5050 but every 6050 should have the better lens.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If their quality control on parts is that bad for the remainder (5050) they have bigger problems than the difference between the projectors. Over the years Pioneer Elite and Sony upper end products did sound better. They had to in the minds of those that payed the higher price. I watched the comparison video and depending on the scene, I bounced back and forth as to which is better. And, not enough to pay the difference when both are the HDMI 2.0a..... and 2.1 is coming out shortly. Peace.
Click to expand...

Thanks for stopping by to give your two cents. I would say watching a video to compare projectors is like watching other people drive cars and you basing which one you're going to buy on the video you watched of two people driving two different cars . Probably not the best idea for anything but certainly not for video projectors or for cars . Pioneer Elite some of the products are really good other ones not so great. Sony has had such bad panel degradation in their projectors that they barely last two to three years. Sony hasn't even acknowledged issue because they don't really care about their customers from what I have observed. Ask any projector calibrators in the business and they'll tell you they don't even want to bother calibrating a Sony anymore cuz it's a waste of time and money. So not really sure what products from Sony you're talkin about seems like you're referring to their audio products which for decades Sony has been one of the biggest brands out there but not really part of the audiophile world because true audiophiles don't believe in paying for a big box brand name. Not sure what you're referring to in terms of epsons Quality Control process. There is always going to be a better diamond it doesn't mean that the other diamonds don't shine it's generally true you get what you pay for. Once again thanks for stopping by to give your two cents


----------



## misterg51

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thanks for stopping by to give your two cents. I would say watching a video to compare projectors is like watching other people drive cars and you basing which one you're going to buy on the video you watched of two people driving two different cars . Probably not the best idea for anything but certainly not for video projectors or for cars . Pioneer Elite some of the products are really good other ones not so great. Sony has had such bad panel degradation in their projectors that they barely last two to three years. Sony hasn't even acknowledged issue because they don't really care about their customers from what I have observed. Ask any projector calibrators in the business and they'll tell you they don't even want to bother calibrating a Sony anymore cuz it's a waste of time and money. So not really sure what products from Sony you're talkin about seems like you're referring to their audio products which for decades Sony has been one of the biggest brands out there but not really part of the audiophile world because true audiophiles don't believe in paying for a big box brand name. Not sure what you're referring to in terms of epsons Quality Control process. There is always going to be a better diamond it doesn't mean that the other diamonds don't shine it's generally true you get what you pay for. Once again thanks for stopping by to give your two cents





I will give my two cents after looking at them (5040 and 5050) by myself. I was talking about Sony audio though. I've been through Krell to receivers for my bedroom. Good enough to satisfy the function. Those are all the same lenses for both projectors though. They just sort the better ones to the 6050. How much better is the million dollar question. Interesting that they post more HDR modes for the 5050 than 6050. So, you never know until you sit in your chair and watch. For the record, this is my second 5040 as the first had dust on one of the panels and Epson said send it back.


----------



## skylarlove1999

misterg51 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for stopping by to give your two cents. I would say watching a video to compare projectors is like watching other people drive cars and you basing which one you're going to buy on the video you watched of two people driving two different cars . Probably not the best idea for anything but certainly not for video projectors or for cars . Pioneer Elite some of the products are really good other ones not so great. Sony has had such bad panel degradation in their projectors that they barely last two to three years. Sony hasn't even acknowledged issue because they don't really care about their customers from what I have observed. Ask any projector calibrators in the business and they'll tell you they don't even want to bother calibrating a Sony anymore cuz it's a waste of time and money. So not really sure what products from Sony you're talkin about seems like you're referring to their audio products which for decades Sony has been one of the biggest brands out there but not really part of the audiophile world because true audiophiles don't believe in paying for a big box brand name. Not sure what you're referring to in terms of epsons Quality Control process. There is always going to be a better diamond it doesn't mean that the other diamonds don't shine it's generally true you get what you pay for. Once again thanks for stopping by to give your two cents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will give my two cents after looking at them (5040 and 5050) by myself. I was talking about Sony audio though. I've been through Krell to receivers for my bedroom. Good enough to satisfy the function. Those are all the same lenses for both projectors though. They just sort the better ones to the 6050. How much better is the million dollar question. Interesting that they post more HDR modes for the 5050 than 6050. So, you never know until you sit in your chair and watch. For the record, this is my second 5040 as the first had dust on one of the panels and Epson said send it back.
Click to expand...

Once some more people have seen the 5050 and the 6050 it will be interesting to hear other people's opinions I look forward to hearing yours thanks again have a great day


----------



## drober30

Liquid$team said:


> ricwhite said:
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing the 6050 to the 5050 would need to be a "blind" test. Expectations will play a role in what is perceived. If you are told the 6050 is 20% better and that is what you expect to see, then you just might see a difference even if there isn't one. The only true way to compare is if you don't actually know which projector is projecting the image at a given time. So, that makes comparisons even harder to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 100% agree. The funny thing is the comparison video was a blind test to me as I missed where they said which side was which projector.... and the whole time I was thinking that the left side was better... turned out it was the 5050.... which might well be true. The problem is I just don't trust video and audio on quality coming from you tube. it needs to be compared in person. So at that point all you can do is trust what the person comparing is seeing.
> 
> As far as specs go I have often bought and paid extra for specs and many times been disappointed. Sometimes specs are just not that obvious in the real world.
Click to expand...

I watched the video and I can see why you might think the 5050 on the left had a better picture and why many people might say that. I think picture quality is very subjective, especially when you’re talking about a high definition picture to begin with. 

On this forum there are many knowledgeable people who are really into AV/ Home Theater and understand what is supposed to be a good picture by judging shadows, skin tones and color and that’s where the calibration talk comes in; however, I think many people who aren’t looking for certain tell tail signs might pick a picture that enthusiasts would consider the inferior picture because it’s brighter and more vivid.

I somewhat fall into that category because when a picture is not side by side to compare, if the picture is great then I’m happy and not looking for absolute perfection. This is what has allowed me to by an Epson shifter opposed to a native 4K.


----------



## drober30

It was easier for me to pick the 6050 because I wanted a black projector, I needed a new mount because my mount for the 5010 is white and probably won’t work on the 6050, the extra lamp and the extra year warranty with 2 DAY Replacement. All of that factored in really doesn’t make the 6050 that much more expensive. The price increase just for the contrast increase is not justified in my mind.


----------



## skylarlove1999

drober30 said:


> Liquid$team said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ricwhite said:
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing the 6050 to the 5050 would need to be a "blind" test. Expectations will play a role in what is perceived. If you are told the 6050 is 20% better and that is what you expect to see, then you just might see a difference even if there isn't one. The only true way to compare is if you don't actually know which projector is projecting the image at a given time. So, that makes comparisons even harder to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 100% agree. The funny thing is the comparison video was a blind test to me as I missed where they said which side was which projector.... and the whole time I was thinking that the left side was better... turned out it was the 5050.... which might well be true. The problem is I just don't trust video and audio on quality coming from you tube. it needs to be compared in person. So at that point all you can do is trust what the person comparing is seeing.
> 
> As far as specs go I have often bought and paid extra for specs and many times been disappointed. Sometimes specs are just not that obvious in the real world.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I watched the video and I can see why you might think the 5050 on the left had a better picture and why many people might say that. I think picture quality is very subjective, especially when you’re talking about a high definition picture to begin with.
> 
> On this forum there are many knowledgeable people who are really into AV/ Home Theater and understand what is supposed to be a good picture by judging shadows, skin tones and color and that’s where the calibration talk comes in; however, I think many people who aren’t looking for certain tell tail signs might pick a picture that enthusiasts would consider the inferior picture because it’s brighter and more vivid.
> 
> I somewhat fall into that category because when a picture is not side by side to compare, if the picture is great then I’m happy and not looking for absolute perfection. This is what has allowed me to by an Epson shifter opposed to a native 4K.
Click to expand...

I greatly admire your honesty. Most consumers prefer the brighter image that has more color saturation. That is why big box stores oversaturate the color and turn up the brightness on store displays. I have learned to appreciate a properly calibrated display for the more subtle elements such as black color detail and spectral highlights and better contrast which reveals more detail in the picture. But sometimes turn up the brightness to wow a guest because that is how they think HDR should look. I enjoy it but I can notice the black crush lack of shadow detail and spectral highlights. Most people never care about those things as long as the picture is bright and colors pop.


----------



## Liquid$team

In the video it seems obvious to that the left side screen is darker and crisper. (See the "play movie" at the menu). Hopefully I'm getting my point across. The brighter screen is on the right but to me looks washed out. Am I crazy? Anyone agree?


----------



## drober30

*25' - 30' HDMI cable for Epson 6050UB*

What are the recommendations for a 25-30' HDMI cable to run from my receiver to the Epson 6050UB projector? I probably want to run an Ultra High Speed?


----------



## seplant

carmona said:


> I presently have the Epson 5020Ub. When I watch 3D movies using this projector, I wear the authentic Epson brand 3D eyeglasses which were recommended by Epson. Does anyone know if the 3D glasses which function so well with the 5020 can be used with the 6050 or 5050 ? Thanks for any advice.


As long as your 3D glasses are RF and not infrared, I believe they should work with the 5050/6050.


----------



## Luminated67

drober30 said:


> What are the recommendations for a 25-30' HDMI cable to run from my receiver to the Epson 6050UB projector? I probably want to run an Ultra High Speed?


The only recommendation I can give is a Fibre HDMI cable that you can easily get from Amazon. You don’t need to spend anything more than $40-50.


----------



## oztheatre

Liquid$team said:


> So Epson gave the 6050 a totally different lens than the 5050?


It looks like it. Thankfully our TW9400 here is the 6050 there because what I'm seeing is the lens is way better than the previous 9300 I had here.


----------



## BushMackel

misterg51 said:


> Bit the bullet and getting the 5050 tomorrow at my door. Will leave my 5040 mounted and then A/B and see if I can get 4k 60 out of my XBox One X. Had a Linker that caused me fits until I took it out.
> 
> 
> I'll report back in a few days whether it is a big improvement, or it is going back to Amazon. Had to perform too many feats of magic on the 5040 to make all the sources operate correctly and look like I wanted them to after calibration.


PLEASE! I have a 6040 and Xbox One X right now w/ a Linker and am really trying to figure out if a 5050 will play nicer. Wondering how many checkboxes you get with the Xbox One X. Look forward to hearing your report!


----------



## groggrog

BushMackel said:


> PLEASE! I have a 6040 and Xbox One X right now w/ a Linker and am really trying to figure out if a 5050 will play nicer. Wondering how many checkboxes you get with the Xbox One X. Look forward to hearing your report!


What are you using the Linker for?


----------



## [email protected]

These are the 3D glasses I am using with the Epson:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PCWMZ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have (2) pairs of the Sony Bluetooth glasses that came with the Sony XBR65x950B that I have. Either brand works with either display but the new Sintron's I got look slightly better to me than the Sony's on both displays.

I have had 3 DLP (3D) capable projectors with the Optoma 3D glasses as comparison, even though the Epson has some Crosstalk (not much), the brightness and color accuracy allow for a more enjoyable 3d picture. all of my 3d is in ISO format from a Popcorn Hour VTEN for playback.


----------



## robl2

Has anyone else found it hard to see any extra detail with this projector over a 1080p one? I'm comparing it against my aging Panasonic PT-AE8000U, which (some) people even consider to be "soft". The difference in 4K was easily distinguishable when I had the JVC LX-UH1 and BenQ HT5550 here.

Yes, I know DLP is inherently sharper and these were both 4x shifters, vs the 2x shifting 5050UB, but it's hard to believe I can barely see any detail increase with The Martian & COCO at all, while both easily showed it on the DLPs. Playing the 4K disc thru the Oppo UDP-203 straight to the 5050UB, whilst the HD disc is playing in a PS3 through a receiver and on to my PT-AE8000.

The projector is at factory settings for all the 4K stuff. *Which settings should I confirm to make sure it's doing its pixel shifting?* I already confirmed that the projector was receiving a 3840 x 2160 signal from the Oppo with BT.2020 etc.

Screen is 105" and seated at 9.5 ft, could clearly see the difference with the DLP projectors before.

Is there a guide somewhere on how to best do the panel alignment? Just want to make sure I'm testing this thing at its very sharpest.


----------



## BushMackel

groggrog said:


> What are you using the Linker for?


If you play a 4K HDR blu ray through the XBox One X on the 5040 it's fine. But it's the gaming that's the problem. So I'm basically taking the signal and turning it into a 4K some flavour of HDR that the 5040 can rock with. I think the projector basically doesn't like the 4K 60ftp HDR signal because it's 10 bit? So I'm downgrading to 8bit? 

I dunno, it's something like that. But honestly I'm still a bit of a n00b on 4:4:4, 4:4:2... All those specs are still very greek to me but I know there's some concrete info in the 5040 owners thread on the subject.


----------



## CanadaMark

Hi All,

I've got a (hopefully) quick question about the 5050UB regarding Opti-Hdmi. I have not been able to find the answer with searches or from the manual. I see the Epson has a 300mW USB port for Opti-Hdmi, however the "slim run" fiber optic Opti-Hdmi cables I look at (Amazon, Monoprice, etc.) do not seem to have an attachment for the external power. I guess my question is what is the 300mW USB port on the Epson 5050 for, and is it necessary for Opti-Hdmi or do some cables not require the auxiliary power? I also assume Opti-HDMI cables attach at the normal HDMI 1/2 ports.

Been out of the HT world for a little bit but with a new home comes a new HT and I am very excited to be upgrading receiver/HDMI/Projector to 4K/18Gbps standards (currently have 6500UB). The 5050UB is what I will likely end up with. Need to tune up my knowledge on some things!

Thanks!


----------



## skylarlove1999

CanadaMark said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I've got a (hopefully) quick question about the 5050UB regarding Opti-Hdmi. I have not been able to find the answer with searches or from the manual. I see the Epson has a 300mW USB port for Opti-Hdmi, however the "slim run" fiber optic Opti-Hdmi cables I look at (Amazon, Monoprice, etc.) do not seem to have an attachment for the external power. I guess my question is what is the 300mW USB port on the Epson 5050 for, and is it necessary for Opti-Hdmi or do some cables not require the auxiliary power? I also assume Opti-HDMI cables attach at the normal HDMI 1/2 ports.
> 
> Been out of the HT world for a little bit but with a new home comes a new HT and I am very excited to be upgrading receiver/HDMI/Projector to 4K/18Gbps standards (currently have 6500UB). The 5050UB is what I will likely end up with. Need to tune up my knowledge on some things!
> 
> Thanks!


Some fiber optic HDMI cables may require power hence the USB port that supports that function. Most Fiber Optic HDMI cables do not require any more power than what is already being provided but the HDMI port connection. HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 are identical on the 5050 and should work with any Fiber Optic HDMI cable. Just make sure you get one that supports 4K/60FPS 18GBPS.


----------



## CanadaMark

skylarlove1999 said:


> Some fiber optic HDMI cables may require power hence the USB port that supports that function. Most Fiber Optic HDMI cables do not require any more power than what is already being provided but the HDMI port connection. HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 are identical on the 5050 and should work with any Fiber Optic HDMI cable. Just make sure you get one that supports 4K/60FPS 18GBPS.


Perfect, thanks - that is exactly what I needed to know. I will definitely be getting 18GBps cables and I know to make sure everything else in the chain is compatible with HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, etc. Other than the new HDMI standards and HDCP, everything seems to be pretty much the same as where I left off, including with Epson still offering phenomenal bang for the buck products


----------



## jtorrence3

robl2 said:


> Screen is 105" and seated at 9.5 ft, could clearly see the difference with the DLP projectors before.


I'm interested to see how you make out once you do panel alignment. I've just ordered a 6050 and sit that close to a 100" screen, and I've got a little fear of missing out on something sharper. 

I'm coming from a Sony 40es - anyone else have any experience with both that and the 5050/6050?


----------



## Luminated67

Yeah as @skylarlove1999 said. Normal Opti-HDMI cable doesn’t require any additional power and works fine with quick handshake.


----------



## Liquid$team

I asked this in the 5040/6040 thread too. Not sure if they differ. Anyone know how big a picture I can get from the 6040 with 10 feet of throw? Thx


----------



## skylarlove1999

Liquid$team said:


> I asked this in the 5040/6040 thread too. Not sure if they differ. Anyone know how big a picture I can get from the 6040 with 10 feet of throw? Thx


Here is a a good throw calculator . Only about 75 inch diagonal with 16:9 screen. Honestly you might be better off with a television if your throw distance is so limited.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## Liquid$team

skylarlove1999 said:


> Here is a a good throw calculator . Only about 75 inch diagonal with 16:9 screen. Honestly you might be better off with a television if your throw distance is so limited.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


Really? I get a 105-110 inch screen with my epson 8500ub. I would have thought a 6050 would throw an even larger picture. Jeez if that's the case I'll stay with my 8500....


----------



## Liquid$team

Ok so I found my projector on there. It claims only 75 inches at 10 feet. I know for a fact that is incorrect so I am assuming everything on that calculator is wrong until proven different. Anyone have their pj mounted 10 feet away?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Liquid$team said:


> Ok so I found my projector on there. It claims only 75 inches at 10 feet. I know for a fact that is incorrect so I am assuming everything on that calculator is wrong until proven different. Anyone have their pj mounted 10 feet away?


Well since you have thrown that size I will defer to you. Sorry the calculator is wrong.


----------



## misterg51

BushMackel said:


> PLEASE! I have a 6040 and Xbox One X right now w/ a Linker and am really trying to figure out if a 5050 will play nicer. Wondering how many checkboxes you get with the Xbox One X. Look forward to hearing your report!



Out of the box, firmware 1.00 I set it up using my Audioquest Chocolate HDMI that I bought years ago for a 1080p DLP. I figured that the cable might have been the problem used with the 5040. To my amazement, the Apple TV 4K and the XBox One X that were set to the lower video specs (just swapped the cable to the 5050) both switched to the highest setting of 4K HDR. I know you are interested in the One X, only Dolby Vision was not checked.


Right out of the box, the 5050 wastes my 5040 across the board. The Audioquest cable is special (I love the picture it makes/transfers). I won't calibrate it for a while, until the bulb breaks in, but the first look is something to see. Highly recommended over the 5040.


----------



## Liquid$team

skylarlove1999 said:


> Well since you have thrown that size I will defer to you. Sorry the calculator is wrong.


No worries. I wasn't trying to be rude. I appreciate your attempt to help. 

The 5040 thread gave me an actual epson calculator and it claims a 106 inch screen at 10 feet. I need to get to 11'9" to get my120 inch screen filled.


----------



## skylarlove1999

misterg51 said:


> BushMackel said:
> 
> 
> 
> PLEASE! I have a 6040 and Xbox One X right now w/ a Linker and am really trying to figure out if a 5050 will play nicer. Wondering how many checkboxes you get with the Xbox One X. Look forward to hearing your report!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the box, firmware 1.00 I set it up using my Audioquest Chocolate HDMI that I bought years ago for a 1080p DLP. I figured that the cable might have been the problem used with the 5040. To my amazement, the Apple TV 4K and the XBox One X that were set to the lower video specs (just swapped the cable to the 5050) both switched to the highest setting of 4K HDR. I know you are interested in the One X, only Dolby Vision was not checked.
> 
> 
> Right out of the box, the 5050 wastes my 5040 across the board. The Audioquest cable is special (I love the picture it makes/transfers). I won't calibrate it for a while, until the bulb breaks in, but the first look is something to see. Highly recommended over the 5040. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Thanks for your two cents 😉. Glad you are as thrilled as most of the rest of us 5050/6050 owners. It only gets better with time and Alaric's settings.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Liquid$team said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well since you have thrown that size I will defer to you. Sorry the calculator is wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> No worries. I wasn't trying to be rude. I appreciate your attempt to help.
> 
> The 5040 thread gave me an actual epson calculator and it claims a 106 inch screen at 10 feet. I need to get to 11'9" to get my120 inch screen filled.
Click to expand...

You were not being rude you were just being honest it's good information to know that sometimes what you read on the Internet isn't always correct LOL. Hopefully you can find a way to get your hundred twenty inch screen filled


----------



## DanGraney

DanGraney said:


> So I picked my 5050 up yesterday, did a simple swap with the 5040 I had suspended from the ceiling and was immediately jarred by the brightness. Yowza, I have some tweaking to do.
> 
> I seem to be having some handshake issues (which I didn’t have with the 5040) and any signal coming from my Pioneer SC-97. I had 4K/60p 4:4:4 set to input into the AVR, and nothing seemed to pass. So I switched that to 4K/60p 4:2:0 and everything worked... not sure why that setting worked for 5040, though.
> 
> Then I powered up my PS4 Pro and no HDR/60. Also no HDR from the AppleTV. I suspect my 50’ Bugubird HDMI cable is at fault, so I purchased 50’ fiber HDMI cable which I’ll hook up and test tomorrow.
> 
> So, some handshake things to work through and some calibration to do. All part of owning a projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Following up on my own post, I ordered a 50' fiber HDMI and that has, indeed, solved my issue. Amazing HDR gaming awaits!


----------



## Liquid$team

DanGraney said:


> Following up on my own post, I ordered a 50' fiber HDMI and that has, indeed, solved my issue. Amazing HDR gaming awaits!


Yeah I have a monoprice fiber hdmi at 30 feet for my 4k tv.... actually installed it backwards the first time lol.... great cable except the cost.


----------



## JewDaddy

sahil0909 said:


> Hey how are you? i just wanted to request your opinion on something if it's okay with you please, i'm currently debating between the epson 4010 and the 5050. The 4010 is perfect for me except just one thing, 4k hdr gaming. Which is available on the 5050 due to the hdmi but not on the 4010. This is literally the only thing that's concerning me right now, since im personally not interested in any other improvements which come with the 5050. So i wanted to ask your opinion since you seem like the right person to ask, since i see you've had the 5040 (which has the hdmi shortcoming just like the 4010), you've also had the linker on the 5040, and you now have the 5050. i'd really appreciate your opinion.
> 
> the questions i wanted to ask you are:
> 
> 1. How big was the improvement in quality from the 5040 4k sdr gaming, to the 5040 4k hdr gaming with the linker?
> 
> 2. How big was the improvement in quality from the 5040 4k hdr gaming with the linker, to the 5050 4k hdr gaming without linker?
> 
> i hope to also learn from this whether the hdr capabilities added by the linker are really at the same level, and really improve the picture just as much as actual hdr on a capable display like the 5050.
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, im not fascinated by 4k hdr gaming just to get to see that 'im playing in 4k hdr', but its just in order to get the better picture quality, so with that being said would you say that for someone like me, for whom the 4010 is perfect in every other way, would it really be worth spending all that extra money for the 5050 JUST to get games in 4k hdr over 4k sdr on the 4010? (Purely in terms of picture quality)
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much


Hey there! Been doing good, hope you have been as well. I will do my best to give you my opinion on how the 4K HDR gaming is with the 5050. Let's start by answering your questions. 

1. How big was the improvement? Hmmmmm. Not huge to be honest. Using the linker was just downright annoying and frustrating. Pretty much, not worth the trouble to get 4k HDR gaming. Which leads me to the next part of your question, how much better is HDR gaming compared to non HDR gaming? My PERSONAL opinion is that I prefer a really good calibrated SDR picture with 4k gaming than HDR gaming. One of the reasons I say that is because I feel like in order to get a good bright image in HDR gaming, you have to blow the highlights out in the image to give it some pop. With SDR, I can make it as bright and poppy as I want without blowing part of the image out. And the crazy thing is that I don't think the colors pop nor do the black levels look as deep as SDR. Now some games handle HDR better than others. But I've found that all around, it's easier to maintain a great picture with all games by keeping it in SDR. 

2. The difference for me between HDR gaming with and without the linker didn't have much to do with performance as it did more ease of use. The screen blanking out for 5 to 10 seconds was frustrating with the linker and I did notice some color banding but not much. I will say that HDR gaming on the 5050 was overall brighter than the 5040 with a linker. It wasn't a huge difference like I expected but it was somewhat noticeable. 

I will say that seeing all the check boxes on my One X without having to use a secondary device to make it work is nice but like you said, saying you can play in 4K HDR isn't as important as how well it works. Again, for me personally it's not something I'm head over heels in love with. My SDR gaming settings almost always show a better image than HDR. 

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Good luck!!!!

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## Rgrim74

Well, pulled the trigger on the Home Cinema 5050UB today. Got it on the ceiling and briefly messed with the unit, so far, pleasantly pleased thus far. I upgrading from a JVC RS-10 by the way.


----------



## BillZ

*5050UB shuts off at 20 minutes ONLY when watching Fios cable box*

As it says... 5050UB shuts off at 20 minutes ONLY when watching Fios cable box

All devices go through a Marantz 7702 and all go out same HDMI output, over a fiber HDMI cable, into HDMI 1 on projector. Have had multiple projectors using exact same setup with no issue.

When watching other sources such as Panny UB820 or NVidia Shield all is good. Once I switch to Fios cable box, projector shuts down at 20 min, as if it was on a timer. 5050UB is days old and no settings changed just yet. I have timed this and it always shuts down at 20 min. Tried changing channels/browse the guide/watch dvr during the 20 minutes and still always the same. Switch to another source and all is fine again. 

I see no setting on PJ showing a set timer but if there were then wouldn't that not depend on source? If watching the panny and the movie ends, source feed ends, same thing happens, as it's supposed to , so its shutting down when watching cable as if it were not receiving a signal the whole time.


No light codes/no overheating. The blue light below the power button light will blink just before shutting down, I guess indicating its going into stand by mode. I can turn it back on immediately and if I switch source, all is good. I sat and tested the 20 min time 6 -8 times in a row and it never fails to shut off, multiple times. Any ideas?


----------



## Kirch21

*No Signal.*

Hello everyone. Just got my 5050ub in and cant get an image to show. I have my Denon x3400h connected with a 30ft fiber HDMI cable directly to HDMI port 1 on the projector. The Epson projects "No Signal". When I plug and unplug the HDMI cable the screen goes all black for a few seconds then just revertS to "No Signal" again, so its at least detecting the connection to some extent. I plugged a mini cable box directly to the projector with a different shorter HDMI cable and it worked just fine. So I am down to either it being the cable, or some setting thats not enabling handshaking between my receiver and the projector. Any ideas? I cant get another fiber HDMI cable locally, but i might try a high speed 25 foot HDMI cable from target/walmart tomorrow. Thanks!


----------



## termite

Kirch21 said:


> Hello everyone. Just got my 5050ub in and cant get an image to show. I have my Denon x3400h connected with a 30ft fiber HDMI cable directly to HDMI port 1 on the projector. The Epson projects "No Signal". When I plug and unplug the HDMI cable the screen goes all black for a few seconds then just revertS to "No Signal" again, so its at least detecting the connection to some extent. I plugged a mini cable box directly to the projector with a different shorter HDMI cable and it worked just fine. So I am down to either it being the cable, or some setting thats not enabling handshaking between my receiver and the projector. Any ideas? I cant get another fiber HDMI cable locally, but i might try a high speed 25 foot HDMI cable from target/walmart tomorrow. Thanks!


You may want to try connecting your fiber optic HDMI cable directly first to see if you get a signal. At least some HDMI fiber optic cables are not compatible with A/V receivers so check that too.

I have the following 30ft and it clearly says in the description:
"This Fiber HDMI Cable can' t connects to A/V receivers. Because it is not compatible with A/V receivers."
https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-4k-Optical-HDMI-Cable/dp/B07L2YGG68/


----------



## Luminated67

Liquid$team said:


> Ok so I found my projector on there. It claims only 75 inches at 10 feet. I know for a fact that is incorrect so I am assuming everything on that calculator is wrong until proven different. Anyone have their pj mounted 10 feet away?


The lens on my Projector is approximately 3.08m from my screen and I can throw roughly a 106” 16:9 image.


----------



## Luminated67

termite said:


> You may want to try connecting your fiber optic HDMI cable directly first to see if you get a signal. At least some HDMI fiber optic cables are not compatible with A/V receivers so check that too.
> 
> I have the following 30ft and it clearly says in the description:
> "This Fiber HDMI Cable can' t connects to A/V receivers. Because it is not compatible with A/V receivers."
> https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-4k-Optical-HDMI-Cable/dp/B07L2YGG68/


That’s funny because this is the very cable I have connected between my Projector and my Sony AVR and it works perfectly.


----------



## MrGrimble

skylarlove1999 said:


> Well since you have thrown that size I will defer to you. Sorry the calculator is wrong.


If I'm not mistaken, you are not adding the zoom factor.
With full zoom from 10 feet you get 102" screen on the 6040.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MrGrimble said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well since you have thrown that size I will defer to you. Sorry the calculator is wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, you are not adding the zoom factor.
> With full zoom from 10 feet you get 102" screen on the 6040.
Click to expand...

You are absolutely correct that I did not add the Zoom effect I already apologized for my error but it is a good learning point for other people using that calculator as well. Thank you


----------



## MrGrimble

If we're already on the subject of the zoom, can someone please tell me if adjusting zoom to either side effects/distorts the picture (like a keystone adjustment), or is it harmless like a lens shift?


----------



## sahil0909

JewDaddy said:


> Hey there! Been doing good, hope you have been as well. I will do my best to give you my opinion on how the 4K HDR gaming is with the 5050. Let's start by answering your questions.
> 
> 1. How big was the improvement? Hmmmmm. Not huge to be honest. Using the linker was just downright annoying and frustrating. Pretty much, not worth the trouble to get 4k HDR gaming. Which leads me to the next part of your question, how much better is HDR gaming compared to non HDR gaming? My PERSONAL opinion is that I prefer a really good calibrated SDR picture with 4k gaming than HDR gaming. One of the reasons I say that is because I feel like in order to get a good bright image in HDR gaming, you have to blow the highlights out in the image to give it some pop. With SDR, I can make it as bright and poppy as I want without blowing part of the image out. And the crazy thing is that I don't think the colors pop nor do the black levels look as deep as SDR. Now some games handle HDR better than others. But I've found that all around, it's easier to maintain a great picture with all games by keeping it in SDR.
> 
> 2. The difference for me between HDR gaming with and without the linker didn't have much to do with performance as it did more ease of use. The screen blanking out for 5 to 10 seconds was frustrating with the linker and I did notice some color banding but not much. I will say that HDR gaming on the 5050 was overall brighter than the 5040 with a linker. It wasn't a huge difference like I expected but it was somewhat noticeable.
> 
> I will say that seeing all the check boxes on my One X without having to use a secondary device to make it work is nice but like you said, saying you can play in 4K HDR isn't as important as how well it works. Again, for me personally it's not something I'm head over heels in love with. My SDR gaming settings almost always show a better image than HDR.
> 
> Hope this helps. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Good luck!!!!
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Hey, thank you so much for taking your time to give me this very kind reply with all the answers i was hoping for! 
i've been good as well thank you.

This answer really helps me out alot with my decision, since to be honest im looking for the best value projector for my needs, and after your answer, as for my personal situation i think i've pretty much decided on the 4010 series over the 5050 as FOR ME it and my situation i find it isn't worth it. Only problem now is, i'm now trying to find good reasons why the 4010 is worth the extra money over the 4000!  (Digging as deep as possible to get best value!) Because the only main feature i see upgraded apart from the small 200 lumens and little contrast bump, is the better hdr tone mapping.

Since the hdr tone mapping on the 4000 is probably the same as the 5040, just as the tone mapping for 4010 is same as 5050, do you find that the improved hdr on the 5050 is much better/watchable for movies than the 5040? 
Since i heard that the updates with the older models improved their hdr, and also i see that there are alot of hdr settings which those with the older models seem to like and feel it improves the hdr. Is the hdr on the new models still much better and much more of a step up, for movies?

Thank you once again.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MrGrimble said:


> If we're already on the subject of the zoom, can someone please tell me if adjusting zoom to either side effects/distorts the picture (like a keystone adjustment), or is it harmless like a lens shift?


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...ift-affect-image-quality.html#/topics/2304562

Shifting the lens vertically or horizontally can have an adverse effect on picture quality. Probably not one that most people would ever notice from their viewing distance. I believe your question to be whether zooming in or zooming out has an effect on picture quality please confirm if that is correct there should be topics on the Forum that address zooming as it relates to picture quality.


----------



## Liquid$team

MrGrimble said:


> If we're already on the subject of the zoom, can someone please tell me if adjusting zoom to either side effects/distorts the picture (like a keystone adjustment), or is it harmless like a lens shift?


Lens shift doesn't seem to have any effect on picture quality on my Epson 8500ub.


----------



## MrGrimble

skylarlove1999 said:


> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...ift-affect-image-quality.html#/topics/2304562
> 
> Shifting the lens vertically or horizontally can have an adverse effect on picture quality. Probably not one that most people would ever notice from their viewing distance. I believe your question to be whether zooming in or zooming out has an effect on picture quality please confirm if that is correct there should be topics on the Forum that address zooming as it relates to picture quality.


Yes, that is correct. 
I will look for relevant topics. 
Tnx


----------



## Luminated67

MrGrimble said:


> If we're already on the subject of the zoom, can someone please tell me if adjusting zoom to either side effects/distorts the picture (like a keystone adjustment), or is it harmless like a lens shift?


My projector is at 3.08m from my 100” screen and you can search the thread and see just how good my images are. There’s another benefit of maximum zoom and that’s HDR as you get the most lumens.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MrGrimble said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...ift-affect-image-quality.html#/topics/2304562
> 
> Shifting the lens vertically or horizontally can have an adverse effect on picture quality. Probably not one that most people would ever notice from their viewing distance. I believe your question to be whether zooming in or zooming out has an effect on picture quality please confirm if that is correct there should be topics on the Forum that address zooming as it relates to picture quality.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is correct.
> I will look for relevant topics.
> Tnx
Click to expand...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...-degrade-picture-quality.html#/topics/1226740 

Only a couple pages but some relevant information


----------



## MrGrimble

Luminated67 said:


> My projector is at 3.08m from my 100” screen and you can search the thread and see just how good my images are. There’s another benefit of maximum zoom and that’s HDR as you get the most lumens.


I'm currently projecting my Benq w1070 to a 92" screen from 2.8m.
The 5050 throw allows me to stay with the same throw distance with maximums zoom, so I was a bit worried about the zoom effect, so thanks for the assurance.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MrGrimble said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...ift-affect-image-quality.html#/topics/2304562
> 
> Shifting the lens vertically or horizontally can have an adverse effect on picture quality. Probably not one that most people would ever notice from their viewing distance. I believe your question to be whether zooming in or zooming out has an effect on picture quality please confirm if that is correct there should be topics on the Forum that address zooming as it relates to picture quality.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is correct.
> I will look for relevant topics.
> Tnx
Click to expand...

Zoom

Optical zoom allows the projector to enlarge the size of a projected image by extending the lens to magnify the image, without forcing the user to move the projector or to suffer a decrease in the quality of the displayed image. Projectors boasting optical zoom capabilities can often enlarge the image by twice its size without a loss in image quality.

The primary benefit of this feature is that it allows for the projector to be placed at a further distance away from the screen without reducing the quality of the image. The added benefit of the screen being further away is that cables can be shorter, meaning less cost and less signal degradation.

Digital Zoom

Digital projector zoom functions by cropping the image and then enlarging the pixels to increase the size of the projected picture. This allows for the projector to be placed further away from the screen whilst projecting a larger image. The increased throw distance provides the user with greater flexibility when positioning their projector, but the down side is that the more an image is digitally zoomed, the greater the pixilation, and the greater the reduction in quality of the image. Furthermore, it is important to note that digital zoom can only make small changes to the projector’s throw ratio since factory lenses only allow for small variations in the throw distance.

When a projector’s specifications boast 1.3x digital zoom, remember that although you may be getting a 30% larger image, your image’s quality will suffer as the size gets bigger. A 1.2x optical zoom projector may be more expensive, but the image quality when zoomed in will be much greater.


----------



## Herve

Rgrim74 said:


> Well, pulled the trigger on the Home Cinema 5050UB today. Got it on the ceiling and briefly messed with the unit, so far, pleasantly pleased thus far. I upgrading from a JVC RS-10 by the way.


 My wife and I have an RS1 and a 120" Dalite High Power screen 2.8 gain. Would you be kind enough to elaborate on the differences you note between your RS-10 and your new projector?


Thanks.


----------



## rbk123

Kirch21 said:


> Hello everyone. Just got my 5050ub in and cant get an image to show. I have my Denon x3400h connected with a 30ft fiber HDMI cable directly to HDMI port 1 on the projector. The Epson projects "No Signal". When I plug and unplug the HDMI cable the screen goes all black for a few seconds then just revertS to "No Signal" again, so its at least detecting the connection to some extent. I plugged a mini cable box directly to the projector with a different shorter HDMI cable and it worked just fine. So I am down to either it being the cable, or some setting thats not enabling handshaking between my receiver and the projector. Any ideas? I cant get another fiber HDMI cable locally, but i might try a high speed 25 foot HDMI cable from target/walmart tomorrow. Thanks!


The cables are 1 direction only so you may have the wrong end in the source and the wrong end in the display.


----------



## JewDaddy

sahil0909 said:


> Hey, thank you so much for taking your time to give me this very kind reply with all the answers i was hoping for!
> 
> i've been good as well thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> This answer really helps me out alot with my decision, since to be honest im looking for the best value projector for my needs, and after your answer, as for my personal situation i think i've pretty much decided on the 4010 series over the 5050 as FOR ME it and my situation i find it isn't worth it. Only problem now is, i'm now trying to find good reasons why the 4010 is worth the extra money over the 4000!  (Digging as deep as possible to get best value!) Because the only main feature i see upgraded apart from the small 200 lumens and little contrast bump, is the better hdr tone mapping.
> 
> 
> 
> Since the hdr tone mapping on the 4000 is probably the same as the 5040, just as the tone mapping for 4010 is same as 5050, do you find that the improved hdr on the 5050 is much better/watchable for movies than the 5040?
> 
> Since i heard that the updates with the older models improved their hdr, and also i see that there are alot of hdr settings which those with the older models seem to like and feel it improves the hdr. Is the hdr on the new models still much better and much more of a step up, for movies?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you once again.


You're welcome! Always glad to help a fellow AV enthusiast. 

When I had the 5040 I was not impressed with the HDR tone mapping (or lack thereof) that came with it. I have a Panasonic 4k player that was very good at handling increasing the HDR brightness without overexposing the overall picture. With the new 5050 the tone mapping is very similar to the Panasonic method. I believe the new tone mapping on the 5050 has 15 or 16 points to choose from. 16 being the most dim and 1 being the brightest. Where the 5040 failed is that there was only 5 different HDR adjustments to choose from. What does that mean? From my eyes, it seemed that anytime you jumped from one hdr setting to the next on the 5040, there was this massive increase or decrease in brightness. Nothing was subtle about it. 

The best comparison I can make is sort of like seasoning your food. With the 5050, you can season ever so slightly until you find just the right taste. With the 5040 it's either way too much seasoning or not enough. There wasn't enough level of control. Not to mention, the way the HDR tone mapping looks picture quality wise is much better than the 5040. I feel like the 5040 just overly increased contrast and didn't truly add brightness which made the picture look very blown out. I hated it. There was no real good balance. The 5050 gives you just that. So in that department, the 5050 far exceeds the 5040. 

My opinion and my eyes see a better HDR picture when it comes to movies. I no longer use the tone mapping of the Panasonic because the Epson tone mapping is implemented so well. I just wish games took better advantage with HDR like movies do. 

Hope this helps!!! I'm here for any other questions or advice you might have my friend. Take care

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rbk123 said:


> Kirch21 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello everyone. Just got my 5050ub in and cant get an image to show. I have my Denon x3400h connected with a 30ft fiber HDMI cable directly to HDMI port 1 on the projector. The Epson projects "No Signal". When I plug and unplug the HDMI cable the screen goes all black for a few seconds then just revertS to "No Signal" again, so its at least detecting the connection to some extent. I plugged a mini cable box directly to the projector with a different shorter HDMI cable and it worked just fine. So I am down to either it being the cable, or some setting thats not enabling handshaking between my receiver and the projector. Any ideas? I cant get another fiber HDMI cable locally, but i might try a high speed 25 foot HDMI cable from target/walmart tomorrow. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> The cables are 1 direction only so you may have the wrong end in the source and the wrong end in the display.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify active HDMI cables are directional so you have to make sure you have the source end plugged in at the source and display plugged in at your display in this case your projector but not all HDMI cables are directional ie active HDMI cable. If you have a directional / active HDMI cable each end should be clearly marked source and display.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> sahil0909 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, thank you so much for taking your time to give me this very kind reply with all the answers i was hoping for!
> 
> i've been good as well thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> This answer really helps me out alot with my decision, since to be honest im looking for the best value projector for my needs, and after your answer, as for my personal situation i think i've pretty much decided on the 4010 series over the 5050 as FOR ME it and my situation i find it isn't worth it. Only problem now is, i'm now trying to find good reasons why the 4010 is worth the extra money over the 4000! /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif (Digging as deep as possible to get best value!) Because the only main feature i see upgraded apart from the small 200 lumens and little contrast bump, is the better hdr tone mapping.
> 
> 
> 
> Since the hdr tone mapping on the 4000 is probably the same as the 5040, just as the tone mapping for 4010 is same as 5050, do you find that the improved hdr on the 5050 is much better/watchable for movies than the 5040?
> 
> Since i heard that the updates with the older models improved their hdr, and also i see that there are alot of hdr settings which those with the older models seem to like and feel it improves the hdr. Is the hdr on the new models still much better and much more of a step up, for movies?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you once again.
> 
> 
> 
> You're welcome! Always glad to help a fellow AV enthusiast.
> 
> When I had the 5040 I was not impressed with the HDR tone mapping (or lack thereof) that came with it. I have a Panasonic 4k player that was very good at handling increasing the HDR brightness without overexposing the overall picture. With the new 5050 the tone mapping is very similar to the Panasonic method. I believe the new tone mapping on the 5050 has 15 or 16 points to choose from. 16 being the most dim and 1 being the brightest. Where the 5040 failed is that there was only 5 different HDR adjustments to choose from. What does that mean? From my eyes, it seemed that anytime you jumped from one hdr setting to the next on the 5040, there was this massive increase or decrease in brightness. Nothing was subtle about it.
> 
> The best comparison I can make is sort of like seasoning your food. With the 5050, you can season ever so slightly until you find just the right taste. With the 5040 it's either way too much seasoning or not enough. There wasn't enough level of control. Not to mention, the way the HDR tone mapping looks picture quality wise is much better than the 5040. I feel like the 5040 just overly increased contrast and didn't truly add brightness which made the picture look very blown out. I hated it. There was no real good balance. The 5050 gives you just that. So in that department, the 5050 far exceeds the 5040.
> 
> My opinion and my eyes see a better HDR picture when it comes to movies. I no longer use the tone mapping of the Panasonic because the Epson tone mapping is implemented so well. I just wish games took better advantage with HDR like movies do.
> 
> Hope this helps!!! I'm here for any other questions or advice you might have my friend. Take care
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

JewDaddy did an excellent job of explaining HDR between the 5050 and the 5040 for movie watching. Honestly one of the best and most thorough explanations I've seen on any forum or any review so great work. I would just add that the sharpness level and the resolution is also better on the 5050. Shadow detail and Spectral highlights are also a much higher quality with the Epson 5050ub. And even more so on the 6050.


----------



## Kirch21

rbk123 said:


> Kirch21 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello everyone. Just got my 5050ub in and cant get an image to show. I have my Denon x3400h connected with a 30ft fiber HDMI cable directly to HDMI port 1 on the projector. The Epson projects "No Signal". When I plug and unplug the HDMI cable the screen goes all black for a few seconds then just revertS to "No Signal" again, so its at least detecting the connection to some extent. I plugged a mini cable box directly to the projector with a different shorter HDMI cable and it worked just fine. So I am down to either it being the cable, or some setting thats not enabling handshaking between my receiver and the projector. Any ideas? I cant get another fiber HDMI cable locally, but i might try a high speed 25 foot HDMI cable from target/walmart tomorrow. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> The cables are 1 direction only so you may have the wrong end in the source and the wrong end in the display.
Click to expand...




skylarlove1999 said:


> rbk123 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kirch21 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello everyone. Just got my 5050ub in and cant get an image to show. I have my Denon x3400h connected with a 30ft fiber HDMI cable directly to HDMI port 1 on the projector. The Epson projects "No Signal". When I plug and unplug the HDMI cable the screen goes all black for a few seconds then just revertS to "No Signal" again, so its at least detecting the connection to some extent. I plugged a mini cable box directly to the projector with a different shorter HDMI cable and it worked just fine. So I am down to either it being the cable, or some setting thats not enabling handshaking between my receiver and the projector. Any ideas? I cant get another fiber HDMI cable locally, but i might try a high speed 25 foot HDMI cable from target/walmart tomorrow. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> The cables are 1 direction only so you may have the wrong end in the source and the wrong end in the display.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just to clarify active HDMI cables are directional so you have to make sure you have the source end plugged in at the source and display plugged in at your display in this case your projector but not all HDMI cables are directional ie active HDMI cable. If you have a directional / active HDMI cable each end should be clearly marked source and display.
Click to expand...

Thank you that was the problem! First time hearing about directional hdmi cables.


----------



## rbk123

skylarlove1999 said:


> Just to clarify active HDMI cables are directional so you have to make sure you have the source end plugged in at the source and display plugged in at your display in this case your projector but not all HDMI cables are directional ie active HDMI cable. If you have a directional / active HDMI cable each end should be clearly marked source and display.


Correct - active cables only are directional. I am unaware of a passive fiber hdmi cable, however.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rbk123 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clarify active HDMI cables are directional so you have to make sure you have the source end plugged in at the source and display plugged in at your display in this case your projector but not all HDMI cables are directional ie active HDMI cable. If you have a directional / active HDMI cable each end should be clearly marked source and display.
> 
> 
> 
> Correct - active cables only are directional. I am unaware of a passive fiber hdmi cable, however.
Click to expand...

I agree I have not seen a passive fiber optic HDMI cable but just in case there is one LOL I want to make sure I defined what I mean by active and passive. For anybody here who isn't familiar with HDMI cables there are two types. passive cables which can be plugged in to either the source or the display and you should get a picture. active cables also referred to as directional cables require that you plug them into the correctly labeled Source or display.


----------



## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> JewDaddy did an excellent job of explaining HDR between the 5050 and the 5040 for movie watching. Honestly one of the best and most thorough explanations I've seen on any forum or any review so great work. I would just add that the sharpness level and the resolution is also better on the 5050. Shadow detail and Spectral highlights are also a much higher quality with the Epson 5050ub. And even more so on the 6050.


Thank you! Glad I was able to contribute something helpful 

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## misterg51

Kirch21 said:


> Thank you that was the problem! First time hearing about directional hdmi cables.



Audioquest HDMI have always been directional in "suggested use". More for the audio signal than anything. I have that optical cable in preparation for my Chocolate failing. Never took the end caps off, lol, but will keep it around just in case. $59 insurance policy.


----------



## termite

Luminated67 said:


> That’s funny because this is the very cable I have connected between my Projector and my Sony AVR and it works perfectly.


That's what the amazon description says... although I haven't actually tried mine through my Yamaha AVR yet.
Which cable do you run connecting your source (player) to AVR? I assume the fiber runs from the AVR to Epson.
I need to find another short fast one for connecting my OPPO to AVR


----------



## Gellert1

Your FIOS box will send a signal to your Epson after 20 minutes of inactivity to shut down. You can go into the settings of your FiOS box and disable all inactivity timers to OFF. If the projector is fed from the receiver, you may have a setting in your receiver's HDMI settings to link it directly to the source so that if the source has zero activity it automatically places your Epson to OFF or standby. Unlink or turn off HDMI link so that the projector doesn't time out after 20 minutes.
Your Epson isn't the issue. It's the FiOS or receiver settings.


----------



## BillZ

Gellert said:


> Your FIOS box will send a signal to your Epson after 20 minutes of inactivity to shut down. You can go into the settings of your FiOS box and disable all inactivity timers to OFF. If the projector is fed from the receiver, you may have a setting in your receiver's HDMI settings to link it directly to the source so that if the source has zero activity it automatically places your Epson to OFF or standby. Unlink or turn off HDMI link so that the projector doesn't time out after 20 minutes.
> Your Epson isn't the issue. It's the FiOS or receiver settings.


Going to check all that as soon as I can get home. Thank you for the suggestions.

Just to note: The Fios box remains on (but I do understand what you are saying.)

The exact same set up has been running with multiple projectors with no such issue. Earlier this morning i connected the HDMI feed back to the Sony I just removed, and an older Epson, and no issues at all.

Again, i appreciate the help you have offered and I will post back as soon as I can check.

Bill


----------



## Luminated67

termite said:


> That's what the amazon description says... although I haven't actually tried mine through my Yamaha AVR yet.
> Which cable do you run connecting your source (player) to AVR? I assume the fiber runs from the AVR to Epson.
> I need to find another short fast one for connecting my OPPO to AVR


I run Amazon’s own HDMI cable 2M between the BR Player and the AVR.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> Your FIOS box will send a signal to your Epson after 20 minutes of inactivity to shut down. You can go into the settings of your FiOS box and disable all inactivity timers to OFF. If the projector is fed from the receiver, you may have a setting in your receiver's HDMI settings to link it directly to the source so that if the source has zero activity it automatically places your Epson to OFF or standby. Unlink or turn off HDMI link so that the projector doesn't time out after 20 minutes.
> Your Epson isn't the issue. It's the FiOS or receiver settings.


That is absolutely correct and a great diagnosis on your part. Great work. I honestly love this forum oh just there are so many great wonderful AV enthusiast that are so helpful. I hope everyone has a great Memorial Day weekend.


----------



## DunMunro

Projector Central's review:

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm


----------



## ProCentral Rob

DunMunro said:


> Projector Central's review:
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm





Thanks for picking up and posting the link to ProjectorCentral's review. I'm around to answer any questions from the community about the review or the projector. 



Rob


----------



## skylarlove1999

ProCentral Rob said:


> DunMunro said:
> 
> 
> 
> Projector Central's review:
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm[/quote
> 
> Thanks for picking up and posting the link to ProjectorCentral's review. I'm around to answer any questions from the community about the review or the projector.
> 
> Rob
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the review Rob you guys did a great job on it. Do you think you will be reviewing the 6050?
Click to expand...


----------



## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> ProCentral Rob said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the review Rob you guys did a great job on it. Do you think you will be reviewing the 6050?
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is:
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro-Cinema-6050UB-Review.htm
Click to expand...


----------



## ProCentral Rob

skylarlove1999 said:


> ProCentral Rob said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the review Rob you guys did a great job on it. Do you think you will be reviewing the 6050?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not likely anytime soon. Putting aside the anamorphic lens settings and the lockable ISF modes and the mount and lamp that ship with it, the only performance difference on paper with the 6050 is the extra contrast. It would be nice to compare the two at some point if we get the time and resources; it's about a 16% difference in rating. But I'm not confident you'll see a tremendous difference on screen, and if you do, it'll likely only be on the very darkest and most challenging content. Even in those conditions, I'd guess it's probably splitting hairs. Not like stepping up from a 4010 to the 5050.
Click to expand...


----------



## misterg51

ProCentral Rob said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not likely anytime soon. Putting aside the anamorphic lens settings and the lockable ISF modes and the mount and lamp that ship with it, the only performance difference on paper with the 6050 is the extra contrast. It would be nice to compare the two at some point if we get the time and resources; it's about a 16% difference in rating. But I'm not confident you'll see a tremendous difference on screen, and if you do, it'll likely only be on the very darkest and most challenging content. Even in those conditions, I'd guess it's probably splitting hairs. Not like stepping up from a 4010 to the 5050.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Talking with Epson Technical Support today, the new guy on weekend duty more or less said the same thing. The difference is in the case color, warranty, Chief mount, and a few lockable settings..... Bob, are you willing to post your calibration settings in a table for color mode BD & UHD to compare to others that have calibrated theirs? I have Spectracal Home but only 4 hours on the bulb. Thanks!
Click to expand...


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ProCentral Rob said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the review Rob you guys did a great job on it. Do you think you will be reviewing the 6050?
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is:
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro-Cinema-6050UB-Review.htm
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks Rob😁
Click to expand...


----------



## ProCentral Rob

misterg51 said:


> ProCentral Rob said:
> 
> 
> 
> Talking with Epson Technical Support today, the new guy on weekend duty more or less said the same thing. The difference is in the case color, warranty, Chief mount, and a few lockable settings..... Bob, are you willing to post your calibration settings in a table for color mode BD & UHD to compare to others that have calibrated theirs? I have Spectracal Home but only 4 hours on the bulb. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, I'll try to get them posted up on our site in the next few days as an extra page on the review. I've got to extract them from the projector and type them up.
Click to expand...


----------



## blake18

Liquid$team said:


> To make things even more unclear for myself I have been offered a used 6040 at half the price of a 6050. It's difficult to decide if a 6050 is worth that extra money.


Personally, I'd go for the 6040UB, and allocate money elsewhere in my home theater.


----------



## --Sclaws

Does anyone know if the 8 grayscale steps correlate with specific values (10%-90%)? Just trying to figure out how to calibrate those values using Calman (been a self-oriented user of this pgm for awhile with no formal education with it).


----------



## BillZ

BillZ said:


> As it says... 5050UB shuts off at 20 minutes ONLY when watching Fios cable box
> 
> All devices go through a Marantz 7702 and all go out same HDMI output, over a fiber HDMI cable, into HDMI 1 on projector. Have had multiple projectors using exact same setup with no issue.
> 
> When watching other sources such as Panny UB820 or NVidia Shield all is good. Once I switch to Fios cable box, projector shuts down at 20 min, as if it was on a timer. 5050UB is days old and no settings changed just yet. I have timed this and it always shuts down at 20 min. Tried changing channels/browse the guide/watch dvr during the 20 minutes and still always the same. Switch to another source and all is fine again.
> 
> I see no setting on PJ showing a set timer but if there were then wouldn't that not depend on source? If watching the panny and the movie ends, source feed ends, same thing happens, as it's supposed to , so its shutting down when watching cable as if it were not receiving a signal the whole time.
> 
> 
> No light codes/no overheating. The blue light below the power button light will blink just before shutting down, I guess indicating its going into stand by mode. I can turn it back on immediately and if I switch source, all is good. I sat and tested the 20 min time 6 -8 times in a row and it never fails to shut off, multiple times. Any ideas?





Gellert said:


> Your FIOS box will send a signal to your Epson after 20 minutes of inactivity to shut down. You can go into the settings of your FiOS box and disable all inactivity timers to OFF. If the projector is fed from the receiver, you may have a setting in your receiver's HDMI settings to link it directly to the source so that if the source has zero activity it automatically places your Epson to OFF or standby. Unlink or turn off HDMI link so that the projector doesn't time out after 20 minutes.
> Your Epson isn't the issue. It's the FiOS or receiver settings.


No luck so far. I have not found a setting on the Marantz nor the Fios box that prevent this from happening....

Loving my Epson 5050UB, 20 minutes at a time...
\


----------



## skylarlove1999

BillZ said:


> BillZ said:
> 
> 
> 
> As it says... 5050UB shuts off at 20 minutes ONLY when watching Fios cable box
> 
> All devices go through a Marantz 7702 and all go out same HDMI output, over a fiber HDMI cable, into HDMI 1 on projector. Have had multiple projectors using exact same setup with no issue.
> 
> When watching other sources such as Panny UB820 or NVidia Shield all is good. Once I switch to Fios cable box, projector shuts down at 20 min, as if it was on a timer. 5050UB is days old and no settings changed just yet. I have timed this and it always shuts down at 20 min. Tried changing channels/browse the guide/watch dvr during the 20 minutes and still always the same. Switch to another source and all is fine again.
> 
> I see no setting on PJ showing a set timer but if there were then wouldn't that not depend on source? If watching the panny and the movie ends, source feed ends, same thing happens, as it's supposed to , so its shutting down when watching cable as if it were not receiving a signal the whole time.
> 
> 
> No light codes/no overheating. The blue light below the power button light will blink just before shutting down, I guess indicating its going into stand by mode. I can turn it back on immediately and if I switch source, all is good. I sat and tested the 20 min time 6 -8 times in a row and it never fails to shut off, multiple times. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gellert said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your FIOS box will send a signal to your Epson after 20 minutes of inactivity to shut down. You can go into the settings of your FiOS box and disable all inactivity timers to OFF. If the projector is fed from the receiver, you may have a setting in your receiver's HDMI settings to link it directly to the source so that if the source has zero activity it automatically places your Epson to OFF or standby. Unlink or turn off HDMI link so that the projector doesn't time out after 20 minutes.
> Your Epson isn't the issue. It's the FiOS or receiver settings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No luck so far. I have not found a setting on the Marantz nor the Fios box that prevent this from happening....
> 
> Loving my Epson 505UB, 20 minutes at a time...
> \
Click to expand...

Did you try turning off the HDMI Link in the projector and as a safeguard I was also turn it off in the receiver


----------



## skylarlove1999

BillZ said:


> BillZ said:
> 
> 
> 
> As it says... 5050UB shuts off at 20 minutes ONLY when watching Fios cable box
> 
> All devices go through a Marantz 7702 and all go out same HDMI output, over a fiber HDMI cable, into HDMI 1 on projector. Have had multiple projectors using exact same setup with no issue.
> 
> When watching other sources such as Panny UB820 or NVidia Shield all is good. Once I switch to Fios cable box, projector shuts down at 20 min, as if it was on a timer. 5050UB is days old and no settings changed just yet. I have timed this and it always shuts down at 20 min. Tried changing channels/browse the guide/watch dvr during the 20 minutes and still always the same. Switch to another source and all is fine again.
> 
> I see no setting on PJ showing a set timer but if there were then wouldn't that not depend on source? If watching the panny and the movie ends, source feed ends, same thing happens, as it's supposed to , so its shutting down when watching cable as if it were not receiving a signal the whole time.
> 
> 
> No light codes/no overheating. The blue light below the power button light will blink just before shutting down, I guess indicating its going into stand by mode. I can turn it back on immediately and if I switch source, all is good. I sat and tested the 20 min time 6 -8 times in a row and it never fails to shut off, multiple times. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gellert said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your FIOS box will send a signal to your Epson after 20 minutes of inactivity to shut down. You can go into the settings of your FiOS box and disable all inactivity timers to OFF. If the projector is fed from the receiver, you may have a setting in your receiver's HDMI settings to link it directly to the source so that if the source has zero activity it automatically places your Epson to OFF or standby. Unlink or turn off HDMI link so that the projector doesn't time out after 20 minutes.
> Your Epson isn't the issue. It's the FiOS or receiver settings.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No luck so far. I have not found a setting on the Marantz nor the Fios box that prevent this from happening....
> 
> Loving my Epson 505UB, 20 minutes at a time...
> \
Click to expand...

Makesure CEC (it's called by many different names but is the HDMI control link) is disabled in all the devices. A firmware update may have recently enabled it one of the devices. I remember this problem for somebody a couple years ago with a Marantz and a 5030.


----------



## BillZ

skylarlove1999 said:


> Makesure CEC (it's called by many different names but is the HDMI control link) is disabled in all the devices. A firmware update may have recently enabled it one of the devices. I remember this problem for somebody a couple years ago with a Marantz and a 5030.


I appreciate all your suggestions and will give them a try. I did update my Panny 820 firmware just 2 days ago and becasue I was in that mood, check the Marantz but no update needed. I downloaded the Epson firmware but have not updated it yet. Want to be sure it's the right one of course.

I will keep you all posted...


----------



## skylarlove1999

BillZ said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Makesure CEC (it's called by many different names but is the HDMI control link) is disabled in all the devices. A firmware update may have recently enabled it one of the devices. I remember this problem for somebody a couple years ago with a Marantz and a 5030.
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate all your suggestions and will give them a try. I did update my Panny 820 firmware just 2 days ago and becasue I was in that mood, check the Marantz but no update needed. I downloaded the Epson firmware but have not updated it yet. Want to be sure it's the right one of course.
> 
> I will keep you all posted...
Click to expand...

I can't remember but changing the HDMI Link in the projector to off should actually solve your problem I think the other ones are not necessary but I turned them all off anyway LOL. I have a Denon but should be the same internal parts as most of the Marantz line.


----------



## Luminated67

blake18 said:


> Personally, I'd go for the 6040UB, and allocate money elsewhere in my home theater.


HDR is the future and as such the 6050 really does trump the 6040 in this aspect. I think you would be surprised by the results that now can be achieved with the latest projectors compared to one’s only just been replaced.


----------



## BillZ

skylarlove1999 said:


> Makesure CEC (it's called by many different names but is the HDMI control link) is disabled in all the devices. A firmware update may have recently enabled it one of the devices. I remember this problem for somebody a couple years ago with a Marantz and a 5030.





skylarlove1999 said:


> I can't remember but changing the HDMI Link in the projector to off should actually solve your problem I think the other ones are not necessary but I turned them all off anyway LOL. I have a Denon but should be the same internal parts as most of the Marantz line.


That link was in fact on. I have just turned it off. Watching a movie or 2 with the wife but 21 minutes after I switch over to Fios I will let you all know

Love this Forum. Wish I had more to contribute here but alas, it's not my best subject. If you need PC/Network help then I would feel more useful.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BillZ said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Makesure CEC (it's called by many different names but is the HDMI control link) is disabled in all the devices. A firmware update may have recently enabled it one of the devices. I remember this problem for somebody a couple years ago with a Marantz and a 5030.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I can't remember but changing the HDMI Link in the projector to off should actually solve your problem I think the other ones are not necessary but I turned them all off anyway LOL. I have a Denon but should be the same internal parts as most of the Marantz line.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That link was in fact on. I have just turned it off. Watching a movie or 2 with the wife but 21 minutes after I switch over to Fios I will let you all know
> 
> Love this Forum. Wish I had more to contribute here but alas, it's not my best subject. If you need PC/Network help then I would feel more useful.
Click to expand...

Please let us know almost everyone here loves to help other people and loves audio video issues and trying to figure them out.


----------



## mhutchins

Liquid$team said:


> The PC6050 is listed on the Epson website as having 20% more contrast. Is that accurate? Is that the only performance difference? Anyone see a head to head yet?
> 
> nevermind I found a head to head posted an hour ago on you tube https://youtu.be/f-OpwDCagDc


I watched that video today and I found the setup to be fundamentally flawed in that there was only one camera used to record the projector images on the same screen. The reason I say this is that the screen utilized for the comparison was not a matte white screen but instead was some form of high gain screen with significant hotspotting. This was evident in many scenes, and glaringly obvious in others. The outcome from this effect is that a bright area displayed on the left margin of the left projector (5050) is in the region of diminished screen reflectance relative to the camera position and looks relatively darker when compared to the same region for the right projector (6050) which is now close to the center of the screen and within the region of high reflectance relative to the camera. For some screens the difference in light output between the center and the far edges can be greater than 30-50%!! This also explains why the guys in the video had to keep weaving from side to side - it was so they could overcome the hotspotting related to their screen.

The only way this type of comparison can be filmed to create a true comparison is to use two identical cameras with identical manual settings placed in the exact same position relative to the projector they are recording, and then combine the two images in post production. Between the lack of discussion and the improper setup, I found the comparison to be very disappointing.

Bottom line, I would not base any buying decision on this video.

Mike


----------



## DrMoz

At the moment I have a preorder for a nx7 which doesn’t look like getting filled any time soon. The 5050ub is an interesting alternative, but the sharpness and detail would be a potential concern on my 145” scope screen (1.3 gain). I’m not sure if anyone has posted a 4k quick brown fox test pattern (including a zoomed in pic) with a 5050ub yet to show off its ability to discern fine detail and back up the statements that the shift is better than previous years.

Can someone test this out and post it or point me towards a post that I have missed?


----------



## skylarlove1999

DrMoz said:


> At the moment I have a preorder for a nx7 which doesn’t look like getting filled any time soon. The 5050ub is an interesting alternative, but the sharpness and detail would be a potential concern on my 145” scope screen (1.3 gain). I’m not sure if anyone has posted a 4k quick brown fox test pattern (including a zoomed in pic) with a 5050ub yet to show off its ability to discern fine detail and back up the statements that the shift is better than previous years.
> 
> Can someone test this out and post it or point me towards a post that I have missed?


I see you have been hanging out in JVC projector threads for a while with that quick brown fox request LOL. I'm not sure anyone here is going to be able to do that I don't actually have my laptop with me and I can't remember if I even have that quick brown fox text with all the colors and font over and over. Maybe post that same request over in the JVC owners thread for the NX series and maybe somebody has a 9400 which is the European equivalent for the 5050 / 6050 and see if they could do a test.


----------



## DrMoz

skylarlove1999 said:


> I see you have been hanging out in JVC projector threads for a while with that quick brown fox request LOL. I'm not sure anyone here is going to be able to do that I don't actually have my laptop with me and I can't remember if I even have that quick brown fox text with all the colors and font over and over. Maybe post that same request over in the JVC owners thread for the NX series and maybe somebody has a 9400 which is the European equivalent for the 5050 / 6050 and see if they could do a test.


Yes it’s a common screenshot over there and a great test for sharpness and detail. This helps take away the arbitrary claims of what a projector is capable of.

Here is a link to the qbf file from @ARROW-AV signature if anyone wants it. I would post it directly, but i’m under the post limit for that. I’m not expecting the 5050 to match a 4k projector, but I would like to see how close it gets so I can make a call if it is acceptable for my situation, especially given the serious price saving.


----------



## DrMoz

DrMoz said:


> Yes it’s a common screenshot over there and a great test for sharpness and detail. This helps take away the arbitrary claims of what a projector is capable of.
> 
> Here is a link to the qbf file from @ARROW-AV signature if anyone wants it. I would post it directly, but i’m under the post limit for that. I’m not expecting the 5050 to match a 4k projector, but I would like to see how close it gets so I can make a call if it is acceptable for my situation, especially given the serious price saving.


You will find it in his ‘about me’ tab


----------



## skylarlove1999

DrMoz said:


> DrMoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it’s a common screenshot over there and a great test for sharpness and detail. This helps take away the arbitrary claims of what a projector is capable of.
> 
> Here is a link to the qbf file from @ARROW-AV signature if anyone wants it. I would post it directly, but i’m under the post limit for that. I’m not expecting the 5050 to match a 4k projector, but I would like to see how close it gets so I can make a call if it is acceptable for my situation, especially given the serious price saving.
> 
> 
> 
> You will find it in his ‘about me’ tab
Click to expand...

Yes I think Arrow AV is known for the quick brown fox test. He is a great reviewer of projectors and is basically not biased. I know he was pretty harsh on the first couple of JVC has he got for the 4K projectors I haven't been over there in a while but I think he is a big fan of all three of them at this point and has reviewed all three if I can remember.


----------



## DrMoz

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes I think Arrow AV is known for the quick brown fox test. He is a great reviewer of projectors and is basically not biased. I know he was pretty harsh on the first couple of JVC has he got for the 4K projectors I haven't been over there in a while but I think he is a big fan of all three of them at this point and has reviewed all three if I can remember.


I think he’d be a lot happier with them if he could get ones that worked. This has been a terrible release for jvc and a massive hit to their reputation for quality projectors.


----------



## Alaric

--Sclaws said:


> Does anyone know if the 8 grayscale steps correlate with specific values (10%-90%)? Just trying to figure out how to calibrate those values using Calman (been a self-oriented user of this pgm for awhile with no formal education with it).


Not used calman since spreadsheets, i use HCFR and you can set the number of grayscale patterns to 8 (or 7 in some cases as it auto includes black) which makes the process much simpler as the settings correlate. I'm sure calman will have a similar settings somewhere!

Also i tend to use the near black scale to set 0 as i find actual 0 tricky to get a reading off and it misses the target off on HCFR as black doesn't effectively have an rgb component! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## BillZ

skylarlove1999 said:


> Please let us know almost everyone here loves to help other people and loves audio video issues and trying to figure them out.


Well I am thrilled to announce that for the 1st time since I purchased my Epson 5050UB I have been able to watch more that the 1st 20 minutes of a TV program... lol

Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction


----------



## skylarlove1999

BillZ said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Please let us know almost everyone here loves to help other people and loves audio video issues and trying to figure them out.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I am thrilled to announce that for the 1st time since I purchased my Epson 5050UB I have been able to watch more that the 1st 20 minutes of a TV program... lol
> 
> Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction
Click to expand...


Did it turn out to be the HDMI link and did you resolve it by just turning it off in the projector?


----------



## ARROW-AV

DrMoz said:


> At the moment I have a preorder for a nx7 which doesn’t look like getting filled any time soon. The 5050ub is an interesting alternative, but the sharpness and detail would be a potential concern on my 145” scope screen (1.3 gain). I’m not sure if anyone has posted a 4k quick brown fox test pattern (including a zoomed in pic) with a 5050ub yet to show off its ability to discern fine detail and back up the statements that the shift is better than previous years.
> 
> Can someone test this out and post it or point me towards a post that I have missed?





skylarlove1999 said:


> I see you have been hanging out in JVC projector threads for a while with that quick brown fox request LOL. I'm not sure anyone here is going to be able to do that I don't actually have my laptop with me and I can't remember if I even have that quick brown fox text with all the colors and font over and over. Maybe post that same request over in the JVC owners thread for the NX series and maybe somebody has a 9400 which is the European equivalent for the 5050 / 6050 and see if they could do a test.





DrMoz said:


> Yes it’s a common screenshot over there and a great test for sharpness and detail. This helps take away the arbitrary claims of what a projector is capable of.
> 
> Here is a link to the qbf file from @ARROW-AV signature if anyone wants it. I would post it directly, but i’m under the post limit for that. I’m not expecting the 5050 to match a 4k projector, but I would like to see how close it gets so I can make a call if it is acceptable for my situation, especially given the serious price saving.


Here you go folks... I've posted both the 4K and the HD versions of my QBF test pattern 

By the way, you will need to make sure that you are outputting 4:4:4 chroma subsampling or else the test pattern won't display properly.

:wink:


----------



## ARROW-AV

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes I think Arrow AV is known for the quick brown fox test. He is a great reviewer of projectors and is basically not biased. I know he was pretty harsh on the first couple of JVC has he got for the 4K projectors I haven't been over there in a while but I think he is a big fan of all three of them at this point and has reviewed all three if I can remember.


I will be going into a lot more detail regarding all the 2019 model JVC and SONY projectors as and when I have the time to do so in this thread: The 2019 Model SONY vs JVC Projectors Comparison Thread

ALL of the these projectors have their strengths and weaknesses and all of them have imperfections. I will be reveal all of the details completely impartially, including objective measurements 

:wink:


----------



## SativaNLD

Currently I have the Epson TW8100. I think the equivalent of the 5010UB series here.

Do you guys think it is worth the upgrade to the 5050UB?

I have a custom painted grey screen (SilverFire).


----------



## skylarlove1999

ARROW-AV said:


> DrMoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment I have a preorder for a nx7 which doesn’t look like getting filled any time soon. The 5050ub is an interesting alternative, but the sharpness and detail would be a potential concern on my 145” scope screen (1.3 gain). I’m not sure if anyone has posted a 4k quick brown fox test pattern (including a zoomed in pic) with a 5050ub yet to show off its ability to discern fine detail and back up the statements that the shift is better than previous years.
> 
> Can someone test this out and post it or point me towards a post that I have missed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I see you have been hanging out in JVC projector threads for a while with that quick brown fox request LOL. I'm not sure anyone here is going to be able to do that I don't actually have my laptop with me and I can't remember if I even have that quick brown fox text with all the colors and font over and over. Maybe post that same request over in the JVC owners thread for the NX series and maybe somebody has a 9400 which is the European equivalent for the 5050 / 6050 and see if they could do a test.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DrMoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it’s a common screenshot over there and a great test for sharpness and detail. This helps take away the arbitrary claims of what a projector is capable of.
> 
> Here is a link to the qbf file from @ARROW-AV signature if anyone wants it. I would post it directly, but i’m under the post limit for that. I’m not expecting the 5050 to match a 4k projector, but I would like to see how close it gets so I can make a call if it is acceptable for my situation, especially given the serious price saving.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Here you go folks... I've posted both the 4K and the HD versions of my QBF test pattern /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> By the way, you will need to make sure that you are outputting 4:4:4 chroma subsampling or else the test pattern won't display properly.
Click to expand...

 @ARROW-AV Thank you for popping over to the Epson thread. Thanks for all you do on AVS Forum. Your projector reviews are so objective detailed and informative. I know you have so many fans on this site and in the home theater community. Thanks again.


----------



## BillZ

skylarlove1999 said:


> Did it turn out to be the HDMI link and did you resolve it by just turning it off in the projector?


Yes!

Sorry, I mentioned that in an earlier reply that the HDMI link was set to on. Thanks so much for the help.


----------



## ARROW-AV

skylarlove1999 said:


> @ARROW-AV Thank you for popping over to the Epson thread. Thanks for all you do on AVS Forum. Your projector reviews are so objective detailed and informative. I know you have so many fans on this site and in the home theater community. Thanks again.


I would love for EPSON to sometime soon release a successor to the superb but now very long-in-the-tooth EH-LS10500. Wherein, I would most certainly carry out an in-depth review of that projector as and when it finally appears... 

:wink:


----------



## sahil0909

JewDaddy said:


> You're welcome! Always glad to help a fellow AV enthusiast.
> 
> When I had the 5040 I was not impressed with the HDR tone mapping (or lack thereof) that came with it. I have a Panasonic 4k player that was very good at handling increasing the HDR brightness without overexposing the overall picture. With the new 5050 the tone mapping is very similar to the Panasonic method. I believe the new tone mapping on the 5050 has 15 or 16 points to choose from. 16 being the most dim and 1 being the brightest. Where the 5040 failed is that there was only 5 different HDR adjustments to choose from. What does that mean? From my eyes, it seemed that anytime you jumped from one hdr setting to the next on the 5040, there was this massive increase or decrease in brightness. Nothing was subtle about it.
> 
> The best comparison I can make is sort of like seasoning your food. With the 5050, you can season ever so slightly until you find just the right taste. With the 5040 it's either way too much seasoning or not enough. There wasn't enough level of control. Not to mention, the way the HDR tone mapping looks picture quality wise is much better than the 5040. I feel like the 5040 just overly increased contrast and didn't truly add brightness which made the picture look very blown out. I hated it. There was no real good balance. The 5050 gives you just that. So in that department, the 5050 far exceeds the 5040.
> 
> My opinion and my eyes see a better HDR picture when it comes to movies. I no longer use the tone mapping of the Panasonic because the Epson tone mapping is implemented so well. I just wish games took better advantage with HDR like movies do.
> 
> Hope this helps!!! I'm here for any other questions or advice you might have my friend. Take care
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


That's very kind of you.
i think just like i don't want to pay more than necessary for my needs, i also wouldn't want to cheap out and get a product with inferior performance! thanks to your brilliant explanations i think i've finally understood the difference in hdr i've been hearing about all this time! So the 4010 it is for me!!

This really helped me ALOT! Thank you very much for all your help !!

Take care


----------



## sahil0909

skylarlove1999 said:


> JewDaddy did an excellent job of explaining HDR between the 5050 and the 5040 for movie watching. Honestly one of the best and most thorough explanations I've seen on any forum or any review so great work. I would just add that the sharpness level and the resolution is also better on the 5050. Shadow detail and Spectral highlights are also a much higher quality with the Epson 5050ub. And even more so on the 6050.


Absolutely agree!
Thank you very much as well for your kind input!


----------



## skylarlove1999

ARROW-AV said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @ARROW-AV Thank you for popping over to the Epson thread. Thanks for all you do on AVS Forum. Your projector reviews are so objective detailed and informative. I know you have so many fans on this site and in the home theater community. Thanks again.
> 
> 
> 
> I would love for EPSON to sometime soon release a successor to the superb but now very long-in-the-tooth EH-LS10500. Wherein, I would most certainly carry out an in-depth review of that projector as and when it finally appears... /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
Click to expand...

I along with other AVS Forum members here in the states attended a demonstration and unveiling of the Epson 6050 in New York City in the beginning of May. It was a world-class event put on by AVS forum and Epson. Epson flew in engineers' from Japan. Rodrigo Catalan Epson's senior marketing Manager for North America was also in attendance. There was also a senior vice president from Epson whose name escapes me at the moment who teased at the event about a 4K laser projector sometime later this year or early 2020. We couldn't pin him down or get a definitive answer out of him but it sounded like a certainty. So hopefully you will get your chance @ARROW-AV 😉


----------



## ARROW-AV

skylarlove1999 said:


> I along with other AVS Forum members here in the states attended a demonstration and unveiling of the Epson 6050 in New York City in the beginning of May. It was a world-class event put on by AVS forum and Epson. Epson flew in engineers' from Japan. Rodrigo Catalan Epson's senior marketing Manager for North America was also in attendance. There was also a senior vice president from Epson whose name escapes me at the moment who teased at the event about a 4K laser projector sometime later this year or early 2020. We couldn't pin him down or get a definitive answer out of him but it sounded like a certainty. So hopefully you will get your chance @ARROW-AV 😉


I am hoping EPSON will be announcing and demoing precisely this at IFA 2019 in Berlin and CEDIA 2019 in Denver in September. As usual I will be attending both trades shows and as always will be sure to stop by the EPSON booth to see what's what in this regard, wherein I will be sure to post the details on here. Fingers crossed! 

:wink:


----------



## Luminated67

ARROW-AV said:


> I will be going into a lot more detail regarding all the 2019 model JVC and SONY projectors as and when I have the time to do so in this thread: The 2019 Model SONY vs JVC Projectors Comparison Thread
> 
> ALL of the these projectors have their strengths and weaknesses and all of them have imperfections. I will be reveal all of the details completely impartially, including objective measurements
> 
> :wink:


Hi there, have you heard any of the rumours that Epson are soon to release a Native 4K projector?


----------



## nickoakdl

DrMoz said:


> The 5050ub is an interesting alternative, but the sharpness and detail would be a potential concern on my 145” scope screen (1.3 gain).


I have a 158" scope screen and I just watched Hacksaw Ridge in UHD and it was by far the most impressive home theater experience I've had. I previously owned the 5040ub and I was happy with it, but HDR was a chore more than anything, with the 5050ub 4K HDR is amazing.


----------



## pattemf132

Hello, just purchase 505O, anyone have a recommendation for mount with acoustical ceiling tiles , I need a 6-8” vertical drop from solid wood to below tile . Thanks


----------



## skylarlove1999

nickoakdl said:


> DrMoz said:
> 
> 
> 
> The 5050ub is an interesting alternative, but the sharpness and detail would be a potential concern on my 145” scope screen (1.3 gain).
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 158" scope screen and I just watched Hacksaw Ridge in UHD and it was by far the most impressive home theater experience I've had. I previously owned the 5040ub and I was happy with it, but HDR was a chore more than anything, with the 5050ub 4K HDR is amazing.
Click to expand...

You sir are correct. You win this thread for today. So many doubters on here about that the 5050 is a really big upgrade from the 5040ub who just haven't even seen the projector yet. At least go out and view it and compare it to a 50-40 if you have one and then we can begin an intelligent debate.


----------



## skylarlove1999

pattemf132 said:


> Hello, just purchase 505O, anyone have a recommendation for mount with acoustical ceiling tiles , I need a 6-8” vertical drop from solid wood to below tile . Thanks


The Chief CHF 4000 came with my 6050. Best mount I have ever owned and also most expensive. Is this a basement install? I have included a picture of what I did. I put a piece of wood in between two floor joists right above my drop ceiling. Secured that with four heavy duty wood screws. Then mount the threaded pipe to the wood mounting plate I hung. With the mount and the threaded pipe it is seven inches.


----------



## skylarlove1999

pattemf132 said:


> Hello, just purchase 505O, anyone have a recommendation for mount with acoustical ceiling tiles , I need a 6-8” vertical drop from solid wood to below tile . Thanks


Here's a picture of the threaded pipe and the mount for going into wood or concrete for the threaded pipe


----------



## skylarlove1999

pattemf132 said:


> Hello, just purchase 505O, anyone have a recommendation for mount with acoustical ceiling tiles , I need a 6-8” vertical drop from solid wood to below tile . Thanks


Here's a picture of the mount and the projector I love that the mounting plate lines up with all the nine holes on the Epson 5050 / 6050.


----------



## skylarlove1999

pattemf132 said:


> Hello, just purchase 505O, anyone have a recommendation for mount with acoustical ceiling tiles , I need a 6-8” vertical drop from solid wood to below tile . Thanks


I did find a similar solution it is a little bit more difficult in terms of doing it yourself what is essentially the same thing for only about $80 including the pipe you have to buy separately and the mount. It's just as secure as the chief mount but not nearly as easy to adjust and to take down the chief now actually comes with a lock and key so you can actually unlock the mounting plate from the actual amount and pull the projector down really easy. Here is the parts picture for the chief mount


----------



## Gellert1

I too have a 150" cinescope screen with my 5050ub. Watching UHD 4K Netflix and/or physical 4K discs is an experience that blows me away every time. My wife and I are extremely happy with the projector at only $2799, you get a ton of features. My screen is a high-end grey ALR, also 1.3 gain.

Honestly, just buy it and enjoy. You can always return it if it doesn't blow you away. My lamp is set to medium, btw. High is too bright for a dark room.


----------



## skylarlove1999

pattemf132 said:


> Hello, just purchase 505O, anyone have a recommendation for mount with acoustical ceiling tiles , I need a 6-8” vertical drop from solid wood to below tile . Thanks


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Projecto...ltgRZR3kzLXO8Si-Xv6SXe8mms8vp7ERoCG9kQAvD_BwE

Keep in mind that the pipe in ceiling mount are not included in this mount just the part that will screw onto the pipe is included along with the mount the basically borrows liberally from the plate design of the chief mount. I originally had this mount for my 5040 and thought it was fantastic for the price and still do it is just not nearly as easy to mount and easy to align as the much more expensive Chief mount which came with the 6050


----------



## skylarlove1999

My apologies for hijacking This Thread temporarily to help out someone with a mount question. No more I promise LOL😁😆😊


----------



## skylarlove1999

Okay so this will be the last one LOL. This is the CHF 4000 Mount from Chief for the Epson 5050 or 6050

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...dra0Plkw4lym52SwQmSuB9fOIxoCqvMQAvD_BwE&smp=Y


----------



## nickoakdl

Gellert said:


> My lamp is set to medium, btw. High is too bright for a dark room.


I keep mine on ECO and feel like it's plenty bright for my 158". There is no right or wrong answer, but the point is this is very bright and capable enough to handle very large screens.


----------



## Luminated67

It baffles me why so many doubt the 5050/6050/9400 won’t impress as well as a JVC or Sony on a big screen, if anything the Epson should impress them more because of its superior lumens. And on several occasions I have read comments that the Epson throws a crisper picture than the similar e-shift JVCs.

Everything good quality Bluray and UHD Bluray I have watched has blown me away.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> It baffles me why so many doubt the 5050/6050/9400 won’t impress as well as a JVC or Sony on a big screen, if anything the Epson should impress them more because of its superior lumens. And on several occasions I have read comments that the Epson throws a crisper picture than the similar e-shift JVCs.
> 
> Everything good quality Bluray and UHD Bluray I have watched has blown me away.


Yes!!! HELL YES!!! AMEN TO THAT.


----------



## Liquid$team

Ya'll making me want to grab one asap! I actually have narrowed my search down to the 5050 or 6050. Price difference would only be about $300-$400.....


----------



## robl2

nickoakdl said:


> I have a 158" scope screen and I just watched Hacksaw Ridge in UHD and it was by far the most impressive home theater experience I've had. I previously owned the 5040ub and I was happy with it, but HDR was a chore more than anything, with the 5050ub 4K HDR is amazing.


What are your settings for HDR? Or what mode do you watch it in and generally at what HDR slider setting? So far I've not been that impressed with the HDR tone mapping (I never had a 5040UB to compare to though, just the BenQ HT5550).


----------



## robl2

Luminated67 said:


> And on several occasions I have read comments that the Epson throws a crisper picture than the similar e-shift JVCs.
> 
> Everything good quality Bluray and UHD Bluray I have watched has blown me away.


Comments like these are making me think I have a broken unit. I can barely perceive a resolution difference between my 1080p PT-AE8000U when comparing 1080p Blu-ray vs. 4K UHD (mainly testing with COCO and The Martian), especially with in the modes with the color filter engaged. Could clearly see the difference when I was testing the BenQ HT5550.

Similarly HDR tone mapping (outside of highlights) hasn't blown me away. Colors barely pop over my old SDR projector. Black level has been wonderful in SDR, but in HDR it's definitely more elevated than I would like. And of course if I change that through the HDR slider you lose the pop in the image.

I'm confused a getting a bit frustrated here....


----------



## gene4ht

Luminated67 said:


> *It baffles me why so many doubt the 5050/6050/9400 won’t impress as well as a JVC or Sony on a big screen,* if anything the Epson should impress them more because of its superior lumens. And on several occasions I have read comments that the Epson throws a crisper picture than the similar e-shift JVCs.
> 
> Everything good quality Bluray and UHD Bluray I have watched has blown me away.





skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes!!! HELL YES!!! AMEN TO THAT.


I'm a 5040 owner and couldn't agree more. Even with the improvements from the 5050, I'm still completely satisfied with the image (color, brightness, sharpness, black level) quality of the 5040 under any lighting conditions where the JVC's cannot compete. 

Those who are enthralled with and OCD about "black" levels are drawn to the JVC. But the JVC's superior black level is only achievable in a completely dark environment. For my taste, I'll take the image quality of the Epsons all day every day over all light conditions.

Note: HDR has been the focus of conversation for PJ's in general. WRT to HDR performance between the 5040 and 5050, there is anecdotal evidence supporting its superiority in the 5050. However, IMO, there is still work to be done for PJ's to achieve the HDR capability of flat panels. Of course...YMMV


----------



## nickoakdl

robl2 said:


> What are your settings for HDR? Or what mode do you watch it in and generally at what HDR slider setting? So far I've not been that impressed with the HDR tone mapping (I never had a 5040UB to compare to though, just the BenQ HT5550).


I watch in NATURAL video mode. With Hacksaw Ridge I watched it with the slider at 4. I watched Black Hawk Down last night with the slider at 3. 

Hacksaw Ridge in particular looked amazing. I wish I watched it with the 5040 so I had a better idea of how to compare it, but it was literally the best looking movie I've seen. It could have been the movie, or it could have been the projector. I just know HDR with the 5040 was a chore and I would have to tinker a lot to figure out what looked acceptable for the particular movie, with the 5050 it isn't a chore and I've found the HDR to be actually impressive.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Liquid$team said:


> Ya'll making me want to grab one asap! I actually have narrowed my search down to the 5050 or 6050. Price difference would only be about $300-$400.....


 If the price difference is only going to be $300- $400 then go with the 6050. The mount is a $300 chief mount detailed in my posts above. You get another year of warranty for a total of 3 years and an extra lamp. I do think my 6050 had better sharpness detail and contrast than the 5050 I had for a month. I did not pay for either one so I am not trying to justify my purchase.


----------



## nickoakdl

nickoakdl said:


> I watch in NATURAL video mode. With Hacksaw Ridge I watched it with the slider at 4. I watched Black Hawk Down last night with the slider at 3.
> 
> Hacksaw Ridge in particular looked amazing. I wish I watched it with the 5040 so I had a better idea of how to compare it, but it was literally the best looking movie I've seen. It could have been the movie, or it could have been the projector. I just know HDR with the 5040 was a chore and I would have to tinker a lot to figure out what looked acceptable for the particular movie, with the 5050 it isn't a chore and I've found the HDR to be actually impressive.


With that said, my initial concern with the 5050ub was that it was just a $1000 firmware upgrade over the current price of the 5040ub. After owning it for a few days now, I still feel like it is mostly just a $1000 firmware upgrade over the 5040ub, but it's one helluva firmware upgrade.


----------



## skylarlove1999

nickoakdl said:


> robl2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What are your settings for HDR? Or what mode do you watch it in and generally at what HDR slider setting? So far I've not been that impressed with the HDR tone mapping (I never had a 5040UB to compare to though, just the BenQ HT5550).
> 
> 
> 
> I watch in NATURAL video mode. With Hacksaw Ridge I watched it with the slider at 4. I watched Black Hawk Down last night with the slider at 3.
> 
> Hacksaw Ridge in particular looked amazing. I wish I watched it with the 5040 so I had a better idea of how to compare it, but it was literally the best looking movie I've seen. It could have been the movie, or it could have been the projector. I just know HDR with the 5040 was a chore and I would have to tinker a lot to figure out what looked acceptable for the particular movie, with the 5050 it isn't a chore and I've found the HDR to be actually impressive.
Click to expand...

The better the content you feed a quality 4K projector the better image you will see on screen. Hacksaw Ridge was shot digitally on 3.4k cameras. Because of the liberal use of CGI the digital intermediate was 2k . it is a breathtaking film to view in 4k especially with HDR. For many this will be totally unsurprising, it's in the use of the High Dynamic Range (HDR) and Wide Colour Gamut (WCG) that really distinguishes the UHD visually, from their standard Blu-ray of Hacksaw Ridge. The UHD disc is quite a different beast with tweaked colour timing that leaves vibrant flashes of explosive flames bursting out across the screen, and a finer differentiation in terms of contrast, providing deeper, richer black levels and more gradation through to the peak whites. Blood tones are also more vivid, and overall it is certainly a more refined, vibrant upgrade on the Blu-ray. It makes for an oftentimes demo Ultra HD Blu-ray presentation. If you want to see UHD shot on 6k Arri Alexa cameras with a true 4K digital intermediate check out X-men Apocalypse . Movie is not bad but the audio and video are demo worthy for the length of the film.


----------



## Luminated67

robl2 said:


> Comments like these are making me think I have a broken unit. I can barely perceive a resolution difference between my 1080p PT-AE8000U when comparing 1080p Blu-ray vs. 4K UHD (mainly testing with COCO and The Martian), especially with in the modes with the color filter engaged. Could clearly see the difference when I was testing the BenQ HT5550.
> 
> Similarly HDR tone mapping (outside of highlights) hasn't blown me away. Colors barely pop over my old SDR projector. Black level has been wonderful in SDR, but in HDR it's definitely more elevated than I would like. And of course if I change that through the HDR slider you lose the pop in the image.
> 
> I'm confused a getting a bit frustrated here....


There’s very little noticeable difference between a very good 1080P Bluray and a 4K Bluray. I’m currently on holiday but once home again I’ll take a few images of each for you to compare. Firstly you should NEVER use CINEMA or DIGITAL CINEMA when watching a regular Bluray as these two modes are solely for HDR material and secondly depending on screen size etc you might need to switch to either Medium or High lamp mode to get enough lumens for these two modes as they cut the lumen output in half.

What’s your room like, can you post pics because if you aren’t completely light controlled with very dark walls, ceiling and floor you won’t get the full benefit of the 5050/6050 projector.

Good 1080P disc









Good 4K disc









Would you say the perceived sharpness is far superior with the 4K image?

I wouldn’t.


----------



## robl2

nickoakdl said:


> I watch in NATURAL video mode. With Hacksaw Ridge I watched it with the slider at 4. I watched Black Hawk Down last night with the slider at 3.
> 
> Hacksaw Ridge in particular looked amazing. I wish I watched it with the 5040 so I had a better idea of how to compare it, but it was literally the best looking movie I've seen. It could have been the movie, or it could have been the projector. I just know HDR with the 5040 was a chore and I would have to tinker a lot to figure out what looked acceptable for the particular movie, with the 5050 it isn't a chore and I've found the HDR to be actually impressive.


Thanks for the response! Have you changed any other settings or is everything else pretty much as it was out of the box?


----------



## robl2

Luminated67 said:


> There’s very little noticeable difference between a very good 1080P Bluray and a 4K Bluray.


I saw a big difference comparing my Panny to the BenQ HT5550 when I had it here. In both cases I'm playing the 1080p version of a movie (say COCO) through a PS3, and the 4K UHD disc on the OPPO UDP-203 straight in to the 5050UB (or the HT5550 before it).

In both COCO and The Martian I could see big detail differences. I'm always comparing the same movie side-by-side to clearly see the difference (or not).



Luminated67 said:


> Firstly you should NEVER use CINEMA or DIGITAL CINEMA when watching a regular Bluray as these two modes are solely for HDR material and secondly depending on screen size etc you might need to switch to either Medium or High lamp mode to get enough lumens for these two modes as they cut the lumen output in half.


When I was looking at SDR on the projector I was not using those modes. When comparing 1080p SDR vs 4K HDR I'm only playing the 4K HDR on the 5050UB.



Luminated67 said:


> What’s your room like, can you post pics because if you aren’t completely light controlled with very dark walls, ceiling and floor you won’t get the full benefit of the 5050/6050 projector.


All white room, 105" screen seated @ 9.5 ft. I know I won't get the best out of it, but I can still see the black level is superiour to my "old" PT-AE8000U. You don't need a bat cave to see the difference. Similarly, I could easily see the resolution & HDR improvements with the BenQ HT5550 in that setup, but am struggling with the 5050UB.



Luminated67 said:


> Would you say the perceived sharpness is far superior with the 4K image?
> 
> I wouldn’t.


I wouldn't either. I fully understand (as I work in the industry) not every movie is going to benefit or show the extra detail, but from previous experience I know there's a big difference when watching certain movies side-by-side.


----------



## skylarlove1999

robl2 said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> There’s very little noticeable difference between a very good 1080P Bluray and a 4K Bluray.
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a big difference comparing my Panny to the BenQ HT5550 when I had it here. In both cases I'm playing the 1080p version of a movie (say COCO) through a PS3, and the 4K UHD disc on the OPPO UDP-203 straight in to the 5050UB (or the HT5550 before it).
> 
> In both COCO and The Martian I could see big detail differences. I'm always comparing the same movie side-by-side to clearly see the difference (or not).
> 
> 
> 
> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Firstly you should NEVER use CINEMA or DIGITAL CINEMA when watching a regular Bluray as these two modes are solely for HDR material and secondly depending on screen size etc you might need to switch to either Medium or High lamp mode to get enough lumens for these two modes as they cut the lumen output in half.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When I was looking at SDR on the projector I was not using those modes. When comparing 1080p SDR vs 4K HDR I'm only playing the 4K HDR on the 5050UB.
> 
> 
> 
> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What’s your room like, can you post pics because if you aren’t completely light controlled with very dark walls, ceiling and floor you won’t get the full benefit of the 5050/6050 projector.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All white room, 105" screen seated @ 9.5 ft. I know I won't get the best out of it, but I can still see the black level is superiour to my "old" PT-AE8000U. You don't need a bat cave to see the difference. Similarly, I could easily see the resolution & HDR improvements with the BenQ HT5550 in that setup, but am struggling with the 5050UB.
> 
> 
> 
> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Would you say the perceived sharpness is far superior with the 4K image?
> 
> I wouldn’t.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wouldn't either. I fully understand (as I work in the industry) not every movie is going to benefit or show the extra detail, but from previous experience I know there's a big difference when watching certain movies side-by-side.
Click to expand...

So I am assuming that when you are trying to compare the Blu-ray version of a movie to the 4K UHD version of the same movie you are shutting off any type of upconverting in your Blu-ray player and also shutting off the upconverting in the projector. Obviously also the distance you are sitting from your screen makes a big difference in terms of seeing some of the benefit of the 4K resolution many people cannot see the difference when they sit farther than 8 ft back other people can see it when they sit 12 ft back it is depending on each person. The more noticeable difference for most individuals is the increase to perceived contrast, increased black levels, greater Shadow details and spectral highlights that you get with HDR and WCG(WIDER color gamut). If I understand you correctly you say you were getting this out of the other projector but not from the 5050. Did you view the other projector under the same conditions as you currently have set up in your room with the same exact screen from the same seating distance?


----------



## nickoakdl

robl2 said:


> Thanks for the response! Have you changed any other settings or is everything else pretty much as it was out of the box?


I haven't had a chance to change anything else yet. I might not, I'm really impressed with NATURAL.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Excuse me as this may have been answered in the past. I just installed my fiber optic HDMI cable. My Xbox one X has all green checks minus Dolby Vision after I enabled Expanded in the EDID menu. 

When I try to play a game or open an app I just get the no signal message and hear my AVR click on and off. If I go back to Normal on EDID the picture will come back but no Green checks on XBOX and no HDR10 gaming etc 

What am I doing wrong. Marantz 7011 AVR 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nickoakdl

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Excuse me as this may have been answered in the past. I just installed my fiber optic HDMI cable. My Xbox one X has all green checks minus Dolby Vision after I enabled Expanded in the EDID menu.
> 
> When I try to play a game or open an app I just get the no signal message and hear my AVR click on and off. If I go back to Normal on EDID the picture will come back but no Green checks on XBOX and no HDR10 gaming etc
> 
> What am I doing wrong. Marantz 7011 AVR
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm having a similar issue with my Denon 7200WA and the projector. I can only get the projector to display a signal if I set the EDID to normal. When I set it to expanded, nothing (cable, UHD player, PS4 Pro) displays a signal. I'm using a 35' HDMI cable, and when I plug it into any of those devices on their own, they work just fine, yet when I go through the receiver I get no signal. 

To troubleshoot, I unplugged the receiver and PS4 Pro and connected them to the projector with much shorter cables and they worked just fine with the EDID set to expanded, so that tells me the issue is with the length or quality of the cable and my receiver most likely. I've ordered a few other 35' cables and an HDMI repeater to see if any of those can fix the issue.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

nickoakdl said:


> I'm having a similar issue with my Denon 7200WA and the projector. I can only get the projector to display a signal if I set the EDID to normal. When I set it to expanded, nothing (cable, UHD player, PS4 Pro) displays a signal. I'm using a 35' HDMI cable, and when I plug it into any of those devices on their own, they work just fine, yet when I go through the receiver I get no signal.
> 
> 
> 
> To troubleshoot, I unplugged the receiver and PS4 Pro and connected them to the projector with much shorter cables and they worked just fine with the EDID set to expanded, so that tells me the issue is with the length or quality of the cable and my receiver most likely. I've ordered a few other 35' cables and an HDMI repeater to see if any of those can fix the issue.




I have a brand new $120 fiber optic capable which supports everything available currently. I will flip a $#%# if it’s cable related 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## nickoakdl

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I have a brand new $120 fiber optic capable which supports everything available currently. I will flip a $#%# if it’s cable related
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm guessing the cable would work fine if plugged directly into your Xbox, and that the receiver would work fine if the cable length was shorter. That's the case for me at least. It's like the receiver is sensitive to the length of the cable.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

nickoakdl said:


> I'm guessing the cable would work fine if plugged directly into your Xbox, and that the receiver would work fine if the cable length was shorter. That's the case for me at least. It's like the receiver is sensitive to the length of the cable.




The cable is 30 ft


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## drober30

skylarlove1999 said:


> My apologies for hijacking This Thread temporarily to help out someone with a mount question. No more I promise LOL😁😆😊


The topic of mounts for the 5050/6050 is completely relevant and useful information! I ordered the 6050 and appreciate you posting the mount information!


----------



## drober30

Liquid$team said:


> Ya'll making me want to grab one asap! I actually have narrowed my search down to the 5050 or 6050. Price difference would only be about $300-$400.....


For sure 6050, the extra lamp, mount and extra year warranty with I think 2 day priority exchange is worth that price difference all day long!


----------



## nickoakdl

CallingMrBenzo said:


> The cable is 30 ft
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hopefully you can return the cable. I just received a 35 ft version of this cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U7SLEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and it worked with the EDID set to EXPANDED and on my PS4 Pro I got 4k HDR up to 60 hz! 

The weird thing is that when I plugged it into the projector's HDMI 1 input, the PS4 Pro said it could only go up to 30 hz, but when I plugged it into the HDMI 2 input it showed full compatibility.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

nickoakdl said:


> Hopefully you can return the cable. I just received a 35 ft version of this cable:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U7SLEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> and it worked with the EDID set to EXPANDED and on my PS4 Pro I got 4k HDR up to 60 hz!
> 
> 
> 
> The weird thing is that when I plugged it into the projector's HDMI 1 input, the PS4 Pro said it could only go up to 30 hz, but when I plugged it into the HDMI 2 input it showed full compatibility.




Are you using an AVR or direct from the PS4 to Epson? Maybe I should try HDMI 2?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

drober30 said:


> *The topic of mounts for the 5050/6050 is completely relevant and useful information! I* ordered the 6050 and appreciate you posting the mount information!


+1

Mounts are integral for discussion for those choosing to ceiling mount. Most members don't consider a "brief" departure from topic an issue. It's the endless, page after page deviations that are intolerable.


----------



## nickoakdl

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Are you using an AVR or direct from the PS4 to Epson? Maybe I should try HDMI 2?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm using a Denon 7200. I mention this a few posts ago, but I could get everything to work through the receiver when I put it next to the projector and used shorter cables, or if I used the long cable but went directly from the PS4 Pro to the projector, but not with the receiver and the long cable. Not until I received this cable at least. It's annoying that HDMI cables and inputs can be so sensitive, but I got different results based on each input and even which direction the cable was going (even though these are not directional cables). I'd recommend buying one and returning your more expensive one.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

nickoakdl said:


> I'm using a Denon 7200. I mention this a few posts ago, but I could get everything to work through the receiver when I put it next to the projector and used shorter cables, or if I used the long cable but went directly from the PS4 Pro to the projector, but not with the receiver and the long cable. Not until I received this cable at least. It's annoying that HDMI cables and inputs can be so sensitive, but I got different results based on each input and even which direction the cable was going (even though these are not directional cables). I'd recommend buying one and returning your more expensive one.




So I bypassed the receiver and it works great. Is my Marantz not compatible? Or does the length of the cable really matter 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## nickoakdl

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So I bypassed the receiver and it works great. Is my Marantz not compatible? Or does the length of the cable really matter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Read my last few posts. I'd say your receiver (like mine) is finicky, but not incompatible.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

nickoakdl said:


> Read my last few posts. I'd say your receiver (like mine) is finicky, but not incompatible.




My projector is is on the ceiling above the receiver. Less than 10 ft away. I purchased this longer cable in case I change my rack location which I am debating currently. I like the thinness of the cable compare to the supremely bulky alternative. Thanks for the input. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

gene4ht said:


> drober30 said:
> 
> 
> 
> *The topic of mounts for the 5050/6050 is completely relevant and useful information! I* ordered the 6050 and appreciate you posting the mount information!
> 
> 
> 
> +1
> 
> Mounts are integral for discussion for those choosing to ceiling mount. Most members don't consider a "brief" departure from topic an issue. It's the endless, page after page deviations that are intolerable.
Click to expand...

Thank you both. The mount that comes with a 6050 is so easy to use and so stable I finally got my projector perfectly aligned with my screen before it was maybe .005 inch off horizontally but I could notice it but now it is actually perfect.


----------



## asolor78

CallingMrBenzo said:


> nickoakdl said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully you can return the cable. I just received a 35 ft version of this cable:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U7SLEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> and it worked with the EDID set to EXPANDED and on my PS4 Pro I got 4k HDR up to 60 hz!
> 
> 
> 
> The weird thing is that when I plugged it into the projector's HDMI 1 input, the PS4 Pro said it could only go up to 30 hz, but when I plugged it into the HDMI 2 input it showed full compatibility.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using an AVR or direct from the PS4 to Epson? Maybe I should try HDMI 2?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I guess this is a perfect time to ask... EDID normal vs expand... What exactly does this do? Is this the same as the uhd tv hdmi color subsampling? My vizio has an option for hdmi to allow additional color sub sampling?... I noticed that alaric calibrations always had this in normal . But would like to know if i should have it expand for my sonyx700 uhd bluplayer hdmi port .. currently only own ps4 .. not the pro... Edit on a side not i bought 30feet delong optical hdmi so it 18gbs and i would think whatever edid option should be enough to handle it?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

asolor78 said:


> I guess this is a perfect time to ask... EDID normal vs expand... What exactly does this do? Is this the same as the uhd tv hdmi color subsampling? My vizio has an option for hdmi to allow additional color sub sampling?... I noticed that alaric calibrations always had this in normal . But would like to know if i should have it expand for my sonyx700 uhd bluplayer hdmi port .. currently only own ps4 .. not the pro... Edit on a side not i bought 30feet delong optical hdmi so it 18gbs and i would think whatever edid option should be enough to handle it?




Well I just put my Amazon return in for my optical HDMI cable. $129 for a cable that doesn’t work with my AVR. Worked when I bypassed it and looked fantastic. Put an order in for a cheap cable linked above to see if it will work with my AVR. Maybe I did something incorrectly or having a 30 ft cable rolled up when my run is really 10 feet or less has an adverse effect ? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ScudDawg

Projector Reviews Calibration settings must be out soon, the link does not work, but it exists, lol

https://www.projectorreviews.com/re...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/


----------



## Luminated67

robl2 said:


> I saw a big difference comparing my Panny to the BenQ HT5550 when I had it here. In both cases I'm playing the 1080p version of a movie (say COCO) through a PS3, and the 4K UHD disc on the OPPO UDP-203 straight in to the 5050UB (or the HT5550 before it).
> 
> In both COCO and The Martian I could see big detail differences. I'm always comparing the same movie side-by-side to clearly see the difference (or not).


My point isn’t comparing the identical movie in both formatted because one or the other might might better mastered, the point I was trying to make was when you have a very good quality 1080P disc the difference between them isn’t that noticeable.



robl2 said:


> When I was looking at SDR on the projector I was not using those modes. When comparing 1080p SDR vs 4K HDR I'm only playing the 4K HDR on the 5050UB.


I just wanted to clear that up in case that was the cause of your complaint. Have you checked the convergence and the focus as these can make a huge difference.



robl2 said:


> All white room, 105" screen seated @ 9.5 ft. I know I won't get the best out of it, but I can still see the black level is superiour to my "old" PT-AE8000U. You don't need a bat cave to see the difference. Similarly, I could easily see the resolution & HDR improvements with the BenQ HT5550 in that setup, but am struggling with the 5050UB.


With the colour of walls you would be as well going for the 4010 because you aren’t getting the benefit of the extra contrast the 5050 has to offer. The BenQ seemed to have hit the spot for you, may I ask why did you change?



robl2 said:


> I wouldn't either. I fully understand (as I work in the industry) not every movie is going to benefit or show the extra detail, but from previous experience I know there's a big difference when watching certain movies side-by-side.


May I ask does the image I provided look good, rough scale of 1 to 10. If mine are at the upper end of the scale then maybe you do have a problem with yours because I’ve yet to not be impressed by the picture I’m getting. If you have a really good internet speed why not play some of the reference 4K material on YouTube, everyone who has seen my setup including a friend with a Optoma UHD65 has been mighty impressed. In case the guy with the Optoma is trying to sell his to get the Epson.


----------



## gene4ht

skylarlove1999 said:


> Here's a picture of the mount and the projector I love that the mounting plate lines up with all the nine holes on the Epson 5050 / 6050.


The Chief Mounting system consists of at least two components...an RPA + SLB...and if necessary an appropriate length pipe. The RPA component gives this system it's excellent flexibility and resides between the ceiling and the custom plate/bracket attached to the projector. There is an original style RPA and a newer style RPA...both have the same flexibility. The correct custom mounting plate (bracket) for the 5040/6040/5050/6050 is the SLB357. I much prefer the solid plate/bracket over the four spider leg (universal) type that is also sold for the RPA's.

Note: In the past, it was necessary to designate an RPA and an SLB when ordering. However, it appears now that a single designation covers both components as a single assembly...i.e. CHF 4000.

The links below will take you to my posts with pictures of these components from two years ago in the 5040 thread. I highly recommend Chief mounts for their rigidity, sturdiness, flexibility, ease of adjustment, and ability to maintain perfect registration after removal and replacement....no muss no fuss. The Chief's are a bit pricier but worth every penny. To quote professional installer @*MississippiMan* .."There ain't none mo betta." I wholeheartedly agree!





















https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-139.html#post48956017


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Well I just put my Amazon return in for my optical HDMI cable. $129 for a cable that doesn’t work with my AVR. Worked when I bypassed it and looked fantastic. Put an order in for a cheap cable linked above to see if it will work with my AVR. Maybe I did something incorrectly or having a 30 ft cable rolled up when my run is really 10 feet or less has an adverse effect ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You really need to watch when rolling up an Opti-HDMI as you can’t damage them real easy. That could be your problem.


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So I bypassed the receiver and it works great. Is my Marantz not compatible? Or does the length of the cable really matter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I don’t know how true this is but was told by someone who installs Home Cinema systems that a lot of AVRs that claimed to be 4K 60HZ 4:4:4 actually aren’t.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> You really need to watch when rolling up an Opti-HDMI as you can’t damage them real easy. That could be your problem.




It came rolled I only unwound what I needed. As I said direct from Xbox to Epson it looked amazing My receiver is a couple years old 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> It came rolled I only unwound what I needed. As I said direct from Xbox to Epson it looked amazing My receiver is a couple years old
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thumbs up, just checking as it’s something a BT engineer told me about fibre cables, a slight kink can damage them.


----------



## robl2

skylarlove1999 said:


> So I am assuming that when you are trying to compare the Blu-ray version of a movie to the 4K UHD version of the same movie you are shutting off any type of upconverting in your Blu-ray player and also shutting off the upconverting in the projector.


1080p blu-ray + 1080p PS3 + 1080p projector. So no upscaling anywhere.



skylarlove1999 said:


> Did you view the other projector under the same conditions as you currently have set up in your room with the same exact screen from the same seating distance?


Yep, exact same environment, setup, distances, discs, cables, etc. etc.


----------



## robl2

Luminated67 said:


> Have you checked the convergence and the focus as these can make a huge difference.


Yes, I spend some time making sure it was as bang on as I could get it.



Luminated67 said:


> With the colour of walls you would be as well going for the 4010 because you aren’t getting the benefit of the extra contrast the 5050 has to offer. The BenQ seemed to have hit the spot for you, may I ask why did you change?


Black levels mainly. I know everyone always says white everything hurts the projected image, and of course it does, but it's easy to see the black level differences between my current PT-AE800U, the BenQ HT5550 I had and now the 5050UB. Biggest issue witht he BenQ was the slow dynamic iris, but I also saw a bit of RBE. While I loved the detail and sharpness (4x 1080p + single chip) and the HDR tone mapping, the slow dynamic iris with not so great black levels really pulls me out of things. Even the girlfriend commented on it 



Luminated67 said:


> May I ask does the image I provided look good, rough scale of 1 to 10. If mine are at the upper end of the scale then maybe you do have a problem with yours because I’ve yet to not be impressed by the picture I’m getting. If you have a really good internet speed why not play some of the reference 4K material on YouTube, everyone who has seen my setup including a friend with a Optoma UHD65 has been mighty impressed. In case the guy with the Optoma is trying to sell his to get the Epson.


Detail / sharpness wise (for a 4K image) probably a 6. Everything else is hard to judge on a photo and computer monitor.

I appreciate everyone's thoughts. I'll play around some more with settings and quadruple checking everything, but unless it starts to perform better I'll likely be sending it back while I wait for a 5050UB + HT5550 baby


----------



## lmendes

Anyone knows why Alaric settings don’t use edid expanded ? It seems that if it is not set to expanded on mine I am not able to send HDR with 4K 60hz.




Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

robl2 said:


> Yes, I spend some time making sure it was as bang on as I could get it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black levels mainly. I know everyone always says white everything hurts the projected image, and of course it does, but it's easy to see the black level differences between my current PT-AE800U, the BenQ HT5550 I had and now the 5050UB. Biggest issue witht he BenQ was the slow dynamic iris, but I also saw a bit of RBE. While I loved the detail and sharpness (4x 1080p + single chip) and the HDR tone mapping, the slow dynamic iris with not so great black levels really pulls me out of things. Even the girlfriend commented on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Detail / sharpness wise (for a 4K image) probably a 6. Everything else is hard to judge on a photo and computer monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate everyone's thoughts. I'll play around some more with settings and quadruple checking everything, but unless it starts to perform better I'll likely be sending it back while I wait for a 5050UB + HT5550 baby




They have one already it’s called an NX-5 sharpness, HDR tone mapping, contrast /color and motorized lense. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Liquid$team

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Are you using an AVR or direct from the PS4 to Epson? Maybe I should try HDMI 2?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Your Marantz claims all 8 hdmi ports are hdcp 2.2 compatible. Maybe one is defective..... but all 8 are supposed to work.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Liquid$team said:


> Your Marantz claims all 8 hdmi ports are hdcp 2.2 compatible. Maybe one is defective..... but all 8 are supposed to work.




I only used the cable as my output to the Epson. It has no issue with my Panasonic on the Blu-ray input. Perhaps I should try the Xbox on a different input, swing how the cable worked from the Xbox itself. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Liquid$team

CallingMrBenzo said:


> They have one already it’s called an NX-5 sharpness, HDR tone mapping, contrast /color and motorized lense.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So the NX5 is the best of the 5050+5550?


----------



## misterg51

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I only used the cable as my output to the Epson. It has no issue with my Panasonic on the Blu-ray input. Perhaps I should try the Xbox on a different input, swing how the cable worked from the Xbox itself.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



*4K Signal Format*


Set the 4K signal format to be played back by this unit when the TV or playback device connected to this unit is HDMI 4K (60Hz/50Hz) signal compatible.

*4K Signal Format*


Set the format of the 4K signal played back by this unit.



Stan*dard
(De*fault):

Se*lect if your TV and play*back de*vices sup*port stan*dard 4K 60p 4:2:0 8 bit video sig*nals.

En*hanced:

Se*lect if your TV, play*back de*vices, and ca*bles sup*port high qual*ity 4K 60p 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4K 60p 4:2:0 10 bit video sig*nals.









Relation between the “4K Signal Format” setting and supported resolutions






 
Sup*port Res*o*lu*tion
Color Space
Pixel Depth
4K Sig*nal For*mat
*En*hanced*​ 
*Stan*dard
(De*fault)*​ 
4K 24p, 4K 30p, 4K 25p

RGB /
YCbCr 4:4:4

8 bit







 






 
10,12 bit







 
–​ 
YCbCr 4:2:2

12 bit







 






 
4K 60p, 4K 50p

YCbCr 4:2:0

8 bit







 






 
 10,12 bit







 
–​ 
RGB /
YCbCr 4:4:4

8 bit







 
–​ 
YCbCr 4:2:2

12 bit







 
–​


----------



## misterg51

My AV7702 had a bad HDMI input so you may want to change Xbox to the BD input with 4K set to expanded on the Marantz. I guess inputs closer to the HDMI outs work better as well.


----------



## Alaric

lmendes said:


> Anyone knows why Alaric settings don’t use edid expanded ? It seems that if it is not set to expanded on mine I am not able to send HDR with 4K 60hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapatalk


Technically they are MY settings, they should be tweaked for your set up rather than be used in their entirety. Brightness / contrast and the HDR slider will need setting for your environmental.

As for EDID, my system is well documented and I'm using a Panasonic 420 (820, uk small form factor, no dv), a panasonic bt700 - it doesn't appear to be required and creates a slow handshake in my system! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

robl2 said:


> Yes, I spend some time making sure it was as bang on as I could get it.
> 
> 
> 
> Black levels mainly. I know everyone always says white everything hurts the projected image, and of course it does, but it's easy to see the black level differences between my current PT-AE800U, the BenQ HT5550 I had and now the 5050UB. Biggest issue witht he BenQ was the slow dynamic iris, but I also saw a bit of RBE. While I loved the detail and sharpness (4x 1080p + single chip) and the HDR tone mapping, the slow dynamic iris with not so great black levels really pulls me out of things. Even the girlfriend commented on it
> 
> 
> 
> Detail / sharpness wise (for a 4K image) probably a 6. Everything else is hard to judge on a photo and computer monitor.
> 
> I appreciate everyone's thoughts. I'll play around some more with settings and quadruple checking everything, but unless it starts to perform better I'll likely be sending it back while I wait for a 5050UB + HT5550 baby



I can’t explain why you are disappointed by the Epson, it’s well documented on the AVForums website that when compared to the new JVC NX5 several members including some who already own JVCs actually preferred the Epson so detail and sharpness wasn’t/isn’t an issue.

I know it’s hard to look at an iPhone image uploaded on to a sharing website and get a true reflection of the sharpness and detail but trust me it’s very very good.

Maybe this one will change your opinion.


----------



## lmendes

Alaric said:


> Technically they are MY settings, they should be tweaked for your set up rather than be used in their entirety. Brightness / contrast and the HDR slider will need setting for your environmental.
> 
> As for EDID, my system is well documented and I'm using a Panasonic 420 (820, uk small form factor, no dv), a panasonic bt700 - it doesn't appear to be required and creates a slow handshake in my system!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Thanks Alaric. I understand your point. In my case I am using Nvidia Shield and without EDID set to expanded I am not able to stream 4k 60Hz HDR. 

The handshaking is indeed pretty slow but I will have to live with it.

Leandro


----------



## termite

lmendes said:


> Anyone knows why Alaric settings don’t use edid expanded ? It seems that if it is not set to expanded on mine I am not able to send HDR with 4K 60hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tapatalk


This is true for me as well. I have now set to EDID expanded for all my viewing.


----------



## robl2

termite said:


> This is true for me as well. I have now set to EDID expanded for all my viewing.


Expanded does exactly that, it allows for 18 gbps and thus 4K 60. It should not affect the color or anything else.


----------



## robl2

Luminated67 said:


> I can’t explain why you are disappointed by the Epson, it’s well documented on the AVForums website that when compared to the new JVC NX5 several members including some who already own JVCs actually preferred the Epson so detail and sharpness wasn’t/isn’t an issue.
> 
> I know it’s hard to look at an iPhone image uploaded on to a sharing website and get a true reflection of the sharpness and detail but trust me it’s very very good.
> 
> Maybe this one will change your opinion.


That definitely looks great, thank you for sharing. I didn't have the energy to go tinker with it last night, so maybe I'll try again tonight. Thankfully the Crutchfield return policy is great.


----------



## chenxiaolong

lmendes said:


> Thanks Alaric. I understand your point. In my case I am using Nvidia Shield and without EDID set to expanded I am not able to stream 4k 60Hz HDR.
> 
> The handshaking is indeed pretty slow but I will have to live with it.
> 
> Leandro


Not sure if it applies in your case, but specifically with my Nvidia Shield, the handshake was extremely slow (~40 seconds) when I used a copper 35ft HDMI cable. Switching to a fiber optic cable cut that down to about 5 seconds. This was with the EDID mode set to expanded in both cases.

My full connection chain is: Nvidia Shield --(3ft copper)--> Denon X4500H --(50ft fiber)--> Epson 5050UB.


----------



## lmendes

chenxiaolong said:


> Not sure if it applies in your case, but specifically with my Nvidia Shield, the handshake was extremely slow (~40 seconds) when I used a copper 35ft HDMI cable. Switching to a fiber optic cable cut that down to about 5 seconds. This was with the EDID mode set to expanded in both cases.
> 
> 
> 
> My full connection chain is: Nvidia Shield --(3ft copper)--> Denon X4500H --(50ft fiber)--> Epson 5050UB.




Funny, my configuration is exactly like yours!! I do use cooper HDMI cables but I bought those certified from Monoprice and it has been working without issues . 

The handshake is something between 5 to 10 seconds. It is not that bad but it is annoying especially when you are switching between contents with HDR and back to the shield interface. Every switching triggers a handshake process 


Tapatalk


----------



## drober30

chenxiaolong said:


> Not sure if it applies in your case, but specifically with my Nvidia Shield, the handshake was extremely slow (~40 seconds) when I used a copper 35ft HDMI cable. Switching to a fiber optic cable cut that down to about 5 seconds. This was with the EDID mode set to expanded in both cases.
> 
> My full connection chain is: Nvidia Shield --(3ft copper)--> Denon X4500H --(50ft fiber)--> Epson 5050UB.


What cable did you purchase? I have a 30' foot run to a 6050 and it will also be from a Denon.


----------



## chenxiaolong

drober30 said:


> What cable did you purchase? I have a 30' foot run to a 6050 and it will also be from a Denon.


This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-4K60HZ-HDMI2-0b-Supports-HDCP2-2/dp/B07287LTRZ?th=1&psc=1

Pretty expensive, but it fixed all the signal issues I ran into. If you're planning on using the cable in wall/ceiling, I'd highly recommend staying away from HDMI wall plates and get a plate that allows the cable to pass straight through.


----------



## nickoakdl

drober30 said:


> What cable did you purchase? I have a 30' foot run to a 6050 and it will also be from a Denon.


I have a 35' run from my Epson 5050 to my Denon 7200WA that was giving me trouble, until I tried this cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U7SLEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$23 and full compatibility with everything I could throw at it with the projector's EDID set to EXPANDED. I HIGHLY recommend trying it.


----------



## Alaric

chenxiaolong said:


> Not sure if it applies in your case, but specifically with my Nvidia Shield, the handshake was extremely slow (~40 seconds) when I used a copper 35ft HDMI cable. Switching to a fiber optic cable cut that down to about 5 seconds. This was with the EDID mode set to expanded in both cases.
> 
> My full connection chain is: Nvidia Shield --(3ft copper)--> Denon X4500H --(50ft fiber)--> Epson 5050UB.


With my set-up I've got a couple of short cables for my bluray player and UHD player to my Marantz SR6011 and then a 5m (15') premium certified cable to the projector.

40secs sounds about right for EXPANDED in my set-up....You find the movies started with sound and a black image and then things kick in. NORMAL and it's a couple of seconds and great!

I'm mainly watching UHD or Blurays and occasionally Netflixs or Prime on the Panasonic 420, which all work great.

I do actually have an xbox ones and PlayStation 4 in the living room, but rarely use them as not much of a gamer these days. I do also have a 2017 shield in the living room too....Though prefer my Amazon FireTV 4K 2nd gen box for most the time down there as the Netflix auto play on the Shield irks me, though it's Youtube app is great and it boots up quicker.

I do find it irritating that only my Panasonic 420 gets Atmos on Netflix, the Xbox can, but the iffy remote and noise stop me bothering!!!


----------



## drober30

nickoakdl said:


> I have a 35' run from my Epson 5050 to my Denon 7200WA that was giving me trouble, until I tried this cable.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008U7SLEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> $23 and full compatibility with everything I could throw at it with the projector's EDID set to EXPANDED. I HIGHLY recommend trying it.


What is the handshake time you are seeing using this cable? I would pay extra for an optical cable if it was the difference of 30-40 seconds to 5 seconds. I cant imaging dealing with a 30 second handshake/black screen every time I switch inputs or content!


----------



## ckronengold

chenxiaolong said:


> This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-4K60HZ-HDMI2-0b-Supports-HDCP2-2/dp/B07287LTRZ?th=1&psc=1
> 
> Pretty expensive, but it fixed all the signal issues I ran into. If you're planning on using the cable in wall/ceiling, I'd highly recommend staying away from HDMI wall plates and get a plate that allows the cable to pass straight through.


I went with this one. Grabbed it on a Lightning Deal for $35. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YGG68/

5-10 second handshake from Shield to the 5050, through a Marantz 7010.


----------



## nickoakdl

drober30 said:


> What is the handshake time you are seeing using this cable? I would pay extra for an optical cable if it was the difference of 30-40 seconds to 5 seconds. I cant imaging dealing with a 30 second handshake/black screen every time I switch inputs or content!


It's pretty instant, less than 5 seconds for sure. 30 seconds is unfathomable.


----------



## drober30

nickoakdl said:


> It's pretty instant, less than 5 seconds for sure. 30 seconds is unfathomable.


Awesome! No reason not to try the less expensive option first, hopefully it will work for me too.


----------



## pete ramberg

Epson 9400 (5050UB) versus Sony 295ES comparison - 1080 pixel shifting versus true 4k

Our local Magnolia Design Center/Best Buy have both units on display and allowed me to do a fairly exhaustive shootout yesterday. Here is my opinion on the 2 projectors, which were side-by-side:

Both were fed 2 sources - one was a hard drive 1080p source and the other was a 4k disc of "A Beautiful Planet" and "The Amazing Spider-man 2". The discs are shot in 4k and 4k mastered. Both sources were SDR. Screen was a 92" Screen Innovations. Room could be darkened, but light was coming through the door window.

The Epson was set to "bright cinema" mode, image preset 3 with 4k enhancement activated. The Sony was set to "bright cinema" with default sharpness. Default contrast, color, brightness settings were used on both projectors.

With those settings, I had to increase the sharpness on the Sony to +80 units (default is +50) to match the Epson in sharpness. It was most noticeable with printed graphics in the 4k discs. Without the added sharpness, the Epson's sharpness was superior. 

The Epson had a much brighter, contrastier image than the Sony. The Sony's image was beautiful, but dim. Much dimmer. I would be concerned using it with a 120" or larger diagonal screen.

Blacks were about the same, although I couldn't get the room pitch dark. 

Since the Sony is a true 4k projector, I expected it to be noticeably sharper. I didn't find that to be the case.

I disagree with those that say the pixel shifting does not add to the sharpness of the image. That simply is not what I saw.

My concerns about the Epson not being sharp enough, due to pixel shifting, were not proven by my comparison. In fact, I had to bump up the sharpness on the Sony to match the Epson. Granted, the source was movies and concerts, not graphics and text.


I could have gotten either projector - although I would have had to find a good enough reason to pay the extra $2000. I put 10% down on the Epson.

Please ask any questions you might have on my personal shootout. Just trying to help.

Pete


----------



## skylarlove1999

drober30 said:


> chenxiaolong said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if it applies in your case, but specifically with my Nvidia Shield, the handshake was extremely slow (~40 seconds) when I used a copper 35ft HDMI cable. Switching to a fiber optic cable cut that down to about 5 seconds. This was with the EDID mode set to expanded in both cases.
> 
> My full connection chain is: Nvidia Shield --(3ft copper)--> Denon X4500H --(50ft fiber)--> Epson 5050UB.
> 
> 
> 
> What cable did you purchase? I have a 30' foot run to a 6050 and it will also be from a Denon.
Click to expand...

I have the Epson 6050 along with Denon x4500h and I use this 50-foot cable it gives a great sound field and and amazing picture!!

https://www.amazon.com/Fiber-FURUI-...39&s=gateway&sprefix=furui+&sr=8-4&th=1&psc=1


----------



## jeahrens

pete ramberg said:


> Epson 9400 (5050UB) versus Sony 295ES comparison - 1080 pixel shifting versus true 4k
> 
> Our local Magnolia Design Center/Best Buy have both units on display and allowed me to do a fairly exhaustive shootout yesterday. Here is my opinion on the 2 projectors, which were side-by-side:
> 
> Both were fed 2 sources - one was a hard drive 1080p source and the other was a 4k disc of "A Beautiful Planet" and "The Amazing Spider-man 2". The discs are shot in 4k and 4k mastered. Both sources were SDR. Screen was a 92" Screen Innovations. Room could be darkened, but light was coming through the door window.
> 
> The Epson was set to "bright cinema" mode, image preset 3 with 4k enhancement activated. The Sony was set to "bright cinema" with default sharpness. Default contrast, color, brightness settings were used on both projectors.
> 
> With those settings, I had to increase the sharpness on the Sony to +80 units (default is +50) to match the Epson in sharpness. It was most noticeable with printed graphics in the 4k discs. Without the added sharpness, the Epson's sharpness was superior.
> 
> The Epson had a much brighter, contrastier image than the Sony. The Sony's image was beautiful, but dim. Much dimmer. I would be concerned using it with a 120" or larger diagonal screen.
> 
> Blacks were about the same, although I couldn't get the room pitch dark.
> 
> Since the Sony is a true 4k projector, I expected it to be noticeably sharper. I didn't find that to be the case.
> 
> I disagree with those that say the pixel shifting does not add to the sharpness of the image. That simply is not what I saw.
> 
> My concerns about the Epson not being sharp enough, due to pixel shifting, were not proven by my comparison. In fact, I had to bump up the sharpness on the Sony to match the Epson. Granted, the source was movies and concerts, not graphics and text.
> 
> 
> I could have gotten either projector - although I would have had to find a good enough reason to pay the extra $2000. I put 10% down on the Epson.
> 
> Please ask any questions you might have on my personal shootout. Just trying to help.
> 
> Pete



This is an interesting post and reflects a lot of what has been debated over the last few years. A lot of folks in the Sony camp are accusing those looking at or purchasing the current JVC 4K lineup as being hypocritical. Citing that "4K didn't matter and now it does". Which really isn't the case and it's because of exactly what you've observed. Sony for years has touted their "native 4K" projector, but has implemented processing that does not actually allow their products to resolve single pixel 4K test patterns (like the QBF test pattern). There's a service menu item that needs to be turned off to improve this (but not overcome it). Which begs the question why is it on by default? Add to that their lens tolerances from what I've observed aren't up to the task. Both Sony 4K units I was able to evaluate showed lens uniformity issues with focus degrading off center. When I evaluated Sony 4K units in comparison to the JVC e-shift models and Epson 5040, this is certainly a reason why pixel shifting came very close to matching the detail the "native" Sony units put out. I believe the latest x95 generation has improved on the lens QC, but the processing issues are still present. By comparison the NX5/NX7 samples that people have received do indeed resolve single pixel 4K test patterns with excellent uniformity. Though I still would not say it's a "massive" jump over pixel shifting. I will say with a reasonable seating distance it is certainly noticeable on a well mastered disc.

As to the Epson vs. JVC on sharpness. I found the all glass lens on the JVC to be notably sharper. The Epson 5040 had processing that enhanced sharpness and the visible pixel edge of LCD can give an illusion of "sharp". I know the 5050 has improved on the lens so it may be much closer optics wise. That's no dig on Epson, just that sharpness is a tricky thing to nail down (and good optics aren't cheap). There's a lot of attributes that go into "sharp". JVC simply doesn't bake in the same default levels. The local AV shop that has a 5050 has a 790, so I'll be curious to go between them and see how they stack up.


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## pete ramberg

Honestly, when I fired up both projectors with the 4k "Beautiful Planet" disc, I immediately found the 5050UB to look sharper. It wasn't a test pattern, rather just a movie, albeit shot and mastered in 4k. So, I spent the next 10 minutes trying to get the Sony 295ES to look as sharp.

At the end of the day, it's about perception and maybe not entirely reality. Epson seems to have nailed its processing of the image, while in reality it only has 1/2 the pixel resolution.



jeahrens said:


> This is an interesting post and reflects a lot of what has been debated over the last few years. A lot of folks in the Sony camp are accusing those looking at or purchasing the current JVC 4K lineup as being hypocritical. Citing that "4K didn't matter and now it does". Which really isn't the case and it's because of exactly what you've observed. Sony for years has touted their "native 4K" projector, but has implemented processing that does not actually allow their products to resolve single pixel 4K test patterns (like the QBF test pattern). There's a service menu item that needs to be turned off to improve this (but not overcome it). Which begs the question why is it on by default? Add to that their lens tolerances from what I've observed aren't up to the task. Both Sony 4K units I was able to evaluate showed lens uniformity issues with focus degrading off center. When I evaluated Sony 4K units in comparison to the JVC e-shift models and Epson 5040, this is certainly a reason why pixel shifting came very close to matching the detail the "native" Sony units put out. I believe the latest x95 generation has improved on the lens QC, but the processing issues are still present. By comparison the NX5/NX7 samples that people have received do indeed resolve single pixel 4K test patterns with excellent uniformity. Though I still would not say it's a "massive" jump over pixel shifting. I will say with a reasonable seating distance it is certainly noticeable on a well mastered disc.
> 
> As to the Epson vs. JVC on sharpness. I found the all glass lens on the JVC to be notably sharper. The Epson 5040 had processing that enhanced sharpness and the visible pixel edge of LCD can give an illusion of "sharp". I know the 5050 has improved on the lens so it may be much closer optics wise. That's no dig on Epson, just that sharpness is a tricky thing to nail down (and good optics aren't cheap). There's a lot of attributes that go into "sharp". JVC simply doesn't bake in the same default levels. The local AV shop that has a 5050 has a 790, so I'll be curious to go between them and see how they stack up.


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## dan webster

The one thing i have not sen discussed in any of the professional reviews is how the new models handle fast side to side panning. This is the one area i am less than happy with on my jvc rs520 .


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## dr bill

Good evening, all.

I've been out of the loop on projectors, HDMI specs, etc. for a few years, so bear with me...


I am considering upgrading to the 5050 - I currently have a 4-year-old Sony VPL-40ES that I would retire. Nothing wrong with the latter, just older technology.

My receiver is the Marantz SR7008, advertised as "1080P and 4K Ultra HD Pass Through". Not exactly sure that that means. It is 1.4a HDMI.

Does the fact that my receiver is 1.4a HDMI mean I am going to have issues passing the blu-ray and/or 4k video signal through from my HTPC and/or 4k blu-ray player to the 5050? Given that the 5050 is 2.0 HDMI, how will my older receiver's 1.4a HDMI work with it?

I guess I'm confused about the different HDMI ratings, and how they impact video signals. Am I better off bypassing the SR7008 and running the video direct from the player to the 5050?

Also, my current HDMI cable in the ceiling is 2.0 HDMI, so I think I'm good with that? Or do I need to run a new HDMI cable to the 5050 as well?


Thanks for helping me understand all this... :wink:

Bill


----------



## drober30

dr bill said:


> Good evening, all.
> 
> I've been out of the loop on projectors, HDMI specs, etc. for a few years, so bear with me...
> 
> 
> I am considering upgrading to the 5050 - I currently have a 4-year-old Sony VPL-40ES that I would retire. Nothing wrong with the latter, just older technology.
> 
> My receiver is the Marantz SR7008, advertised as "1080P and 4K Ultra HD Pass Through". Not exactly sure that that means. It is 1.4a HDMI.
> 
> Does the fact that my receiver is 1.4a HDMI mean I am going to have issues passing the blu-ray and/or 4k video signal through from my HTPC and/or 4k blu-ray player to the 5050? Given that the 5050 is 2.0 HDMI, how will my older receiver's 1.4a HDMI work with it?
> 
> I guess I'm confused about the different HDMI ratings, and how they impact video signals. Am I better off bypassing the SR7008 and running the video direct from the player to the 5050?
> 
> Also, my current HDMI cable in the ceiling is 2.0 HDMI, so I think I'm good with that? Or do I need to run a new HDMI cable to the 5050 as well?
> 
> 
> Thanks for helping me understand all this...
> 
> Bill


There are two standards that get discussed, HDMI and HDCP. 

HDMI will refer to speed/bandwidth.
HDCP will refer to copy protection and passing high definition signals.

HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2 have been mainstream for awhile now. You need HDCP 2.2 to pass 4k signals. _Everything in your chain would need to be HDCP 2.2, AV Receiver, Blue-Ray Player, TV/Projector to pass the signal._

HDMI 2.1 is just starting to appear in newly released equipment. HDMI 2.1 will incorporate HDCP 2.3 which will allow for 8k+ video to pass.

I would make sure your current cable is marked "High Speed" in order for it to pass 4k but if I was spending money on new projector/equipment, I would also throw a new cabe up in the ceiling.

Google HDMI cable specifications, there is some good information on the new marketing terms and a certification process that is being used to help consumers know they are getting a certified cable.

Welcome back to the AV world, hope you brought your checkbook!


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> Good evening, all.
> 
> I've been out of the loop on projectors, HDMI specs, etc. for a few years, so bear with me...
> 
> 
> I am considering upgrading to the 5050 - I currently have a 4-year-old Sony VPL-40ES that I would retire. Nothing wrong with the latter, just older technology.
> 
> My receiver is the Marantz SR7008, advertised as "1080P and 4K Ultra HD Pass Through". Not exactly sure that that means. It is 1.4a HDMI.
> 
> Does the fact that my receiver is 1.4a HDMI mean I am going to have issues passing the blu-ray and/or 4k video signal through from my HTPC and/or 4k blu-ray player to the 5050? Given that the 5050 is 2.0 HDMI, how will my older receiver's 1.4a HDMI work with it?
> 
> I guess I'm confused about the different HDMI ratings, and how they impact video signals. Am I better off bypassing the SR7008 and running the video direct from the player to the 5050?
> 
> Also, my current HDMI cable in the ceiling is 2.0 HDMI, so I think I'm good with that? Or do I need to run a new HDMI cable to the 5050 as well?
> 
> 
> Thanks for helping me understand all this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bill


HDMI 1.4 supported 4K resolutions, yes, but only at 24 or 30 frames per second (fps). That works fine for movies but isn’t useful for gaming and many TV broadcasts, which require 50 or 60 fps. Also, HDMI 1.4 limited 4K Ultra HD content to 8-bit color, though it is capable of 10- or 12-bit color. HDMI 2.0 fixed all of that because it could handle up to 18 gigabits per second — plenty enough to allow for 12-bit color and video up to 60 frames per second.

So the 5050 supports 4K/60FPS because it handles up to 18 gigabits per second, but your AVR does not which could create some issues between your AVR and projector and other devices such as a media streamer. You could have some handshake issues. Depending upon the media streamer you utilize your favorite apps may stream UHD content at 24,30 or 60 frames per second(FPS). I would say give it a try. My concern would be audio and video dropouts due to handshake issues because your Marantz receiver is incompatible with HDMI 2.0. 

Most 4K discs are now mastered in 10 and 12 bit color format for more vibrant dynamic images and fantastic HDR. HDMI 1.4 does not support those formats. The Epson 5050ub supports discs in those 10 and 12 bit formats so if your receiver does not you wouldn't be fully utilizing the capability of the projector.


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## dr bill

OK, I think I'm getting this...

1. My existing HDMI cable is "high speed", so I think I can try it out for now: 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SI1JG7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easy to run a new HDMI through if I'm having any issues with the old.

2. Because my receiver is only HDMI 1.4a, this will be a limiting factor in terms of 4K video - it might pass the 4K signal through but at a lower resolution.

3. Once I get the new 5050, I can experiment with my setup. I can run it through my receiver and see what happens. I can bypass the receiver's video by running the 5050 directly to my HTPC, and run audio separately to my receiver.

4. My HTPC was built for me by a smart high school kid, a few years ago. I just checked, and I am running the NVIDIA GeForce GT 730 graphics card. I'll have to do some research to see if this can handle 4K/60FPS.


Thanks again! This is like speaking a foreign language. 

Bill


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## dr bill

Also, if my main (99%) use of my home theater is movie watching (blu-ray and eventually 4K), will my 1.4a HDMI receiver be that much of a limiting factor?


----------



## JonfromCB

drober30 said:


> There are two standards that get discussed, HDMI and HDCP.
> 
> HDMI will refer to speed/bandwidth.
> HDCP will refer to copy protection and passing high definition signals.
> 
> HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2 have been mainstream for awhile now. You need HDCP 2.2 to pass 4k signals. _Everything in your chain would need to be HDCP 2.2, AV Receiver, Blue-Ray Player, TV/Projector to pass the signal._
> 
> HDMI 2.1 is just starting to appear in newly released equipment. HDMI 2.1 will incorporate HDCP 2.3 which will allow for 8k+ video to pass.
> 
> I would make sure your current cable is marked "High Speed" in order for it to pass 4k but if I was spending money on new projector/equipment, I would also throw a new cabe up in the ceiling.
> 
> Google HDMI cable specifications, there is some good information on the new marketing terms and a certification process that is being used to help consumers know they are getting a certified cable.
> 
> Welcome back to the AV world, hope you brought your checkbook!



On the HDMI. Don't rely on the words "high speed" "latest standard" "deep color support", etc regarding HDMI. You also can't always depend on a cable advertised as 2.2 compliant actually being 2.2 compliant. Read the fine print as there are quite a few cables being "passed off" as high speed and meeting latest standards that still have the old Redmere chipset, only support 10.2 GBps, and only support 24 or 30hz.

Keep it simple. Look for 60hz and 18GBPS and you should have full 4k support. A few more details in post #451 this thread.


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## dr bill

JonfromCB said:


> Keep it simple. Look for 60hz and 18GBPS and you should have full 4k support. A few more details in post #451 this thread.



This is how my current HDMI is described:

PERFORMANCE – This HDMI cable supports full 60Hz at 4K resolution, 2160p, 48 bit/px color depth, and bandwidth speed of up to 18GBps to meet the latest HDMI standards.


I should be good with this, I assume.


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## dr bill

Perhaps I should go with the 5050UBe, so as to not bother with the HDMI cable at all?

Are there limitations of the 5050UBe versus the standard 5050 (other than additional cost)?


----------



## nickoakdl

dr bill said:


> Perhaps I should go with the 5050UBe, so as to not bother with the HDMI cable at all?
> 
> Are there limitations of the 5050UBe versus the standard 5050 (other than additional cost)?


I don't believe you will be able to get 4K w/ HDR @ 60hz.


----------



## jeahrens

dan webster said:


> The one thing i have not sen discussed in any of the professional reviews is how the new models handle fast side to side panning. This is the one area i am less than happy with on my jvc rs520 .


Try changing "motion enhance". It doesn't do anything like the Clear Motion Drive (frame interpolation/soap opera effect), just overdrives the panel some (which may help with motion). Sorry for the JVC tip in the Epson thread


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## CanadaMark

dr bill said:


> Perhaps I should go with the 5050UBe, so as to not bother with the HDMI cable at all?
> 
> Are there limitations of the 5050UBe versus the standard 5050 (other than additional cost)?


The wireless is only 1.4a so you are limited to 4K/30 over wireless, which defeats one of the big selling points of the 5050UB (HDMI 2.0 and 4K/60 HDR). You also need line-of-sight from your component rack to the projector's HDMI receiver, which is on the front, so depending how your room is configured that could be a major issue. If I were you I would buy the 'normal' version, and pick up a thin fiber HDMI cable which are much easier to run in some channeling or whatever else you might use to get it up to the PJ.


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## Kirch21

So I had my 5050 for about 3 days and sometimes when I would switch inputs I would get the message " No Input" or "Not Supported" next to the HDMI 1 text. The only way to fix it was the power cycle the machine. When I would attempt to turn the projector off with the power button, the status light would flash blue and the lamp light would flash orange. I looked up the status lights in the manual which told me: "_Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help_". 

I called Epson support expecting them to have me try a few things or install and update but they pretty much immediately set up a warranty replacement. Has anyone had a similar issue? The projector was AWESOME for the three days I could use it...cant wait for my replacement.


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## Rgrim74

When I remodeled my H/T room I ran Certified HDMI cables in the walls/ceiling. I did NOT however replace all the HDMI cables at the A/V rack with certified cables. My 5050UB was the last 4K piece I had to add to be completely 4K in my theater room. Well last night when watching Captain Marvell through the Apple TV 4K, about mid-way through the movie I had hand shake issues with my HDMI cables, unplugged the HDMI cable at the wall and re-plugged it in and the rest of the movie played fine. This morning, ordered all new Certified HDMI cables from Monoprice which should be here Thursday. Hoping this is the last time I have to worry about this issue.


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## dr bill

Ceiling mount recommendation? Chief looks good but expensive.


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## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> Ceiling mount recommendation? Chief looks good but expensive.


PCMD makes very solid mounts. Very strong and inexpensive. I like that the mounting plate has 8 holes aligned with the 8 holes on the Epson 5050. Not as easy to align as the Chief mounts. Then again they are 1/5th the cost. I owned one for my 5040 for two years and was only replaced because the 6050 comes with a mount. PCMD also offer free exchanges in the future when you purchase a new projector you send then the old mount and they send you one to fit your new projector. They have storefronts on Ebay, Amazon and Walmart. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Projector-...m=293042574763&_trksid=p2349624.c100930.m5375


----------



## JonfromCB

dr bill said:


> This is how my current HDMI is described:
> 
> PERFORMANCE – This HDMI cable supports full 60Hz at 4K resolution, 2160p, 48 bit/px color depth, and bandwidth speed of up to 18GBps to meet the latest HDMI standards.
> 
> 
> I should be good with this, I assume.


Yep, and once again 60hz and 18GBps is what you need to know, the rest is superfluous. FYI, if you plan to run up to 35 ft I personally recommend active cables making sure you get the "new" Spectra7 chipset and if you plan to run longer cable I highly recommend fiber optic HDMI like the ones some of the previous posts refer too. Also recommend finding one with a lifetime warranty and if you are going to "pull" a long run through walls and studs without a conduit, I highly recommend purchasing 2 cables in case either one gets damaged during the pull (way too common) and/or one does not handshake as advertised.


----------



## dr bill

skylarlove1999 said:


> PCMD makes very solid mounts. Very strong and inexpensive. I like that the mounting plate has 8 holes aligned with the 8 holes on the Epson 5050. Not as easy to align as the Chief mounts. Then again they are 1/5th the cost. I owned one for my 5040 for two years and was only replaced because the 6050 comes with a mount. PCMD also offer free exchanges in the future when you purchase a new projector you send then the old mount and they send you one to fit your new projector. They have storefronts on Ebay, Amazon and Walmart.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Projector-...m=293042574763&_trksid=p2349624.c100930.m5375


Too funny! I just went downstairs to my home theater to see what I had. Turns out I already have a PCMD mount on my old Sony. Looks like I can trade that in for a new mount for my new 5050. 

Thanks for the recommendation. I just saved myself $60 over buying a new PCMD and hundreds over buying a new Chief.

Bill


----------



## JonfromCB

skylarlove1999 said:


> PCMD makes very solid mounts. Very strong and inexpensive. I like that the mounting plate has 8 holes aligned with the 8 holes on the Epson 5050. Not as easy to align as the Chief mounts. Then again they are 1/5th the cost. I owned one for my 5040 for two years and was only replaced because the 6050 comes with a mount. PCMD also offer free exchanges in the future when you purchase a new projector you send then the old mount and they send you one to fit your new projector. They have storefronts on Ebay, Amazon and Walmart.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Projector-...m=293042574763&_trksid=p2349624.c100930.m5375


But...the Chief comes complete with bracket/attachment hardware that anchors to the ceiling, It has an adjustable 3 or 4 point quick release system that will fit virtually any future projector, and you can quickly remove and remount without any tools or a second human being. Most importantly it has full dimensional tilt adjustment making it simple and easier than most mounts to get the PJ perfectly level from the "get-go"...this makes it easy and simple to align the image exactly to your screen without having to make image compromising PJ/lens adjustments .


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> PCMD makes very solid mounts. Very strong and inexpensive. I like that the mounting plate has 8 holes aligned with the 8 holes on the Epson 5050. Not as easy to align as the Chief mounts. Then again they are 1/5th the cost. I owned one for my 5040 for two years and was only replaced because the 6050 comes with a mount. PCMD also offer free exchanges in the future when you purchase a new projector you send then the old mount and they send you one to fit your new projector. They have storefronts on Ebay, Amazon and Walmart.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Projector-...m=293042574763&_trksid=p2349624.c100930.m5375
> 
> 
> 
> Too funny! I just went downstairs to my home theater to see what I had. Turns out I already have a PCMD mount on my old Sony. Looks like I can trade that in for a new mount for my new 5050.
> 
> Thanks for the recommendation. I just saved myself $60 over buying a new PCMD and hundreds over buying a new Chief.
> 
> Bill
Click to expand...

Honestly what are the chances. I mean I doubt too many people have even heard of the company for this mount let alone have one already installed. You can order the new Mount first and then ship them back the old mount and they will credit it to your purchase or you can send them back the old mountain request a new one. Pretty amazing in this day and age that a company would do that I'm pretty sure they don't even charge for shipping you have to read the fine print but I don't think they do.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> PCMD makes very solid mounts. Very strong and inexpensive. I like that the mounting plate has 8 holes aligned with the 8 holes on the Epson 5050. Not as easy to align as the Chief mounts. Then again they are 1/5th the cost. I owned one for my 5040 for two years and was only replaced because the 6050 comes with a mount. PCMD also offer free exchanges in the future when you purchase a new projector you send then the old mount and they send you one to fit your new projector. They have storefronts on Ebay, Amazon and Walmart.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Projector-...m=293042574763&_trksid=p2349624.c100930.m5375
> 
> 
> 
> Too funny! I just went downstairs to my home theater to see what I had. Turns out I already have a PCMD mount on my old Sony. Looks like I can trade that in for a new mount for my new 5050.
> 
> Thanks for the recommendation. I just saved myself $60 over buying a new PCMD and hundreds over buying a new Chief.
> 
> Bill
Click to expand...

This is the verbiage they provide. Pretty outstanding.


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## dr bill

Another 5050 newbie question:

Can I plug my Amazon fire TV stick right into the 5050, in the second HDMI port, and send audio back to my receiver via the first HDMI port?

(I'm trying to bypass the video on the old receiver so I can take full advantage of the fire TV's 4K.)


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kirch21 said:


> So I had my 5050 for about 3 days and sometimes when I would switch inputs I would get the message " No Input" or "Not Supported" next to the HDMI 1 text. The only way to fix it was the power cycle the machine. When I would attempt to turn the projector off with the power button, the status light would flash blue and the lamp light would flash orange. I looked up the status lights in the manual which told me: "_Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help_".
> 
> I called Epson support expecting them to have me try a few things or install and update but they pretty much immediately set up a warranty replacement. Has anyone had a similar issue? The projector was AWESOME for the three days I could use it...cant wait for my replacement.


I have the blue flashing lights followed by orange followed by projector shutting down. Epson has been amazing in working with me and replacing defective projectors. I cannot say enough good things about them as a company who stands behind their product and works with you to correct the issue to the customer satisfaction.


----------



## skylarlove1999

nickoakdl said:


> dr bill said:
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps I should go with the 5050UBe, so as to not bother with the HDMI cable at all?
> 
> Are there limitations of the 5050UBe versus the standard 5050 (other than additional cost)?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't believe you will be able to get 4K w/ HDR @ 60hz.
Click to expand...

The wireless is limited to 4K/30FPS. Obviously you could still use the HDMI ports and get 4K/60FPS.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JonfromCB said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> PCMD makes very solid mounts. Very strong and inexpensive. I like that the mounting plate has 8 holes aligned with the 8 holes on the Epson 5050. Not as easy to align as the Chief mounts. Then again they are 1/5th the cost. I owned one for my 5040 for two years and was only replaced because the 6050 comes with a mount. PCMD also offer free exchanges in the future when you purchase a new projector you send then the old mount and they send you one to fit your new projector. They have storefronts on Ebay, Amazon and Walmart.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Projector-...m=293042574763&_trksid=p2349624.c100930.m5375
> 
> 
> 
> But...the Chief comes complete with bracket/attachment hardware that anchors to the ceiling, It has an adjustable 3 or 4 point quick release system that will fit virtually any future projector, and you can quickly remove and remount without any tools or a second human being. Most importantly it has full dimensional tilt adjustment making it simple and easier than most mounts to get the PJ perfectly level from the "get-go"...this makes it easy and simple to align the image exactly to your screen without having to make image compromising PJ/lens adjustments .
Click to expand...

I am in total agreement regarding the chief Mount that came with the Epson 6050. It is by far the best Mount I have owned in 20 years of projectors. Honestly if I had known how amazing the Chief mount was I would have bought one a long time ago and spent the money. Everything you said is completely accurate and true and I finally have my projector aligned perfectly which is something I haven't ever been able to say before with any other mount.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> Another 5050 newbie question:
> 
> Can I plug my Amazon fire TV stick right into the 5050, in the second HDMI port, and send audio back to my receiver via the first HDMI port?
> 
> (I'm trying to bypass the video on the old receiver so I can take full advantage of the fire TV's 4K.)


For a 100% certain answer you would have to contact Epson. I am 99.5% certain that you cannot send the audio signal back from your projector to your receiver.


----------



## ricwhite

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have the blue flashing lights followed by orange followed by projector shutting down. Epson has been amazing in working with me and replacing defective projectors. I cannot say enough good things about them as a company who stands behind their product and works with you to correct the issue to the customer satisfaction.


I agree that Espon has EXCELLENT customer service and is quick to respond and replace projectors. However, I'm a little concerned to hear of failing 5050UB projectors. There are really not that many out there yet and to hear of several failures already makes me a little nervous - especially after the 5040 fiasco. That is one of the reasons why I'm waiting until fall or winter to upgrade. I want time for some reliability data on the 5050.


----------



## BUman

Anyone have recommendations for a good 4k receiver to go with the Epson 5050?

Our media room just has Klipsch in-wall speakers (7 of them) for surround sound including ceiling

We have an old Marantz Receiver and would have a budget up to $2k for a new one. I saw their mid level 4k receiver for around $1400. 

Any recommendations?


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> Anyone have recommendations for a good 4k receiver to go with the Epson 5050?
> 
> Our media room just has Klipsch in-wall speakers (7 of them) for surround sound including ceiling
> 
> We have an old Marantz Receiver and would have a budget up to $2k for a new one. I saw their mid level 4k receiver for around $1400.
> 
> Any recommendations?


I have the Denon 4300. 18 months of audio bliss. I would buy a less expensive receiver and spend the extra money on a professional calibration. I had Jeff Meier of Accucal AV calibrate my 4300 and it was the best money I ever spent in my home theater. He calibrated my 5040 as well. He is a gentleman and a scholar and very reasonable for how he transforms your audio and video. The latest version of that Denon model is the 4500 which adds IMAX enhanced. I don't think that is worth another $800 over the Denon 4400 which can be found for $800 these days.

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVRX44...1559159042&s=gateway&sprefix=denon+440&sr=8-3


----------



## Kirch21

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have the blue flashing lights followed by orange followed by projector shutting down. Epson has been amazing in working with me and replacing defective projectors. I cannot say enough good things about them as a company who stands behind their product and works with you to correct the issue to the customer satisfaction.


I had blue and orange flashing simultaneously and it seemed to not stop until I unplugged the projector. I agree the support was very good, I didn't even have to hold. Hopefully this is just a one time issue for my projector. They didn't mention what was broken, just that the lights indicate an internal hardware issue.


----------



## CanadaMark

BUman said:


> Anyone have recommendations for a good 4k receiver to go with the Epson 5050?
> 
> Our media room just has Klipsch in-wall speakers (7 of them) for surround sound including ceiling
> 
> We have an old Marantz Receiver and would have a budget up to $2k for a new one. I saw their mid level 4k receiver for around $1400.
> 
> Any recommendations?


I think you will find the mid-range receivers in the $1-2K range from all the usual suspects to be extremely comparable (Denon, Marantz, Onkyo, Yamaha, etc.) Denon and Marantz are the same company. Onkyo now owns Pioneer, too.

In my personal opinion, as long as the receiver has the general features you want and you have no unusual requirements, I would turn my attention to quality of amplification and room correction. If you won't be adding any speakers, then you don't need to pay up for 11 channels of amplification either, or you can buy a receiver that has 7-9 amplified channels but processing for 11, so you can upgrade down the road if you wish by simply adding an external amp.

Also keep in mind between now and September, quite a few new receivers will be announced, though I am not sure how significant the updates will be. You could view that as a reason to wait, or a way to get a bargain on a current model.

Very generally speaking, if you read a lot, I think you will find that Yamaha has a reputation for above average reliability, Onkyo has a reputation for below average reliability, but that does vary from year to year, model to model, and as ownership changes. Every manufacturer has a few stinkers on their record.

I would start by looking at the following if I were you:

Denon X3500H/X4500H
Marantz 6013 or 7013
Yamaha RXV 2085 / RXA 3080


Some of those can be found for some pretty incredible prices if you keep an eye on sales. By no means is that a complete list, just some popular starting points for you.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CanadaMark said:


> BUman said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have recommendations for a good 4k receiver to go with the Epson 5050?
> 
> Our media room just has Klipsch in-wall speakers (7 of them) for surround sound including ceiling
> 
> We have an old Marantz Receiver and would have a budget up to $2k for a new one. I saw their mid level 4k receiver for around $1400.
> 
> Any recommendations?
> 
> 
> 
> I think you will find the mid-range receivers in the $1-2K range from all the usual suspects to be extremely comparable (Denon, Marantz, Onkyo, Yamaha, etc.) Denon and Marantz are the same company. Onkyo now owns Pioneer, too.
> 
> In my personal opinion, as long as the receiver has the general features you want and you have no unusual requirements, I would turn my attention to quality of amplification and room correction. If you won't be adding any speakers, then you don't need to pay up for 11 channels of amplification either, or you can buy a receiver that has 7-9 amplified channels but processing for 11, so you can upgrade down the road if you wish by simply adding an external amp.
> 
> Also keep in mind between now and September, quite a few new receivers will be announced, though I am not sure how significant the updates will be. You could view that as a reason to wait, or a way to get a bargain on a current model.
> 
> Very generally speaking, if you read a lot, I think you will find that Yamaha has a reputation for above average reliability, Onkyo has a reputation for below average reliability, but that does vary from year to year, model to model, and as ownership changes. Every manufacturer has a few stinkers on their record.
> 
> I would start by looking at the following if I were you:
> 
> Denon X3500H/X4500H
> Marantz 6013 or 7013
> Yamaha RXV 2085 / RXA 3080
> 
> 
> Some of those can be found for some pretty incredible prices if you keep an eye on sales. By no means is that a complete list, just some popular starting points for you.
Click to expand...

+1

This was an extremely informative and well-written post. There really isn't any much to add beyond what was already said.


----------



## BUman

CanadaMark said:


> I think you will find the mid-range receivers in the $1-2K range from all the usual suspects to be extremely comparable (Denon, Marantz, Onkyo, Yamaha, etc.) Denon and Marantz are the same company. Onkyo now owns Pioneer, too.
> 
> In my personal opinion, as long as the receiver has the general features you want and you have no unusual requirements, I would turn my attention to quality of amplification and room correction. If you won't be adding any speakers, then you don't need to pay up for 11 channels of amplification either, or you can buy a receiver that has 7-9 amplified channels but processing for 11, so you can upgrade down the road if you wish by simply adding an external amp.
> 
> Also keep in mind between now and September, quite a few new receivers will be announced, though I am not sure how significant the updates will be. You could view that as a reason to wait, or a way to get a bargain on a current model.
> 
> Very generally speaking, if you read a lot, I think you will find that Yamaha has a reputation for above average reliability, Onkyo has a reputation for below average reliability, but that does vary from year to year, model to model, and as ownership changes. Every manufacturer has a few stinkers on their record.
> 
> I would start by looking at the following if I were you:
> 
> Denon X3500H/X4500H
> Marantz 6013 or 7013
> Yamaha RXV 2085 / RXA 3080
> 
> 
> Some of those can be found for some pretty incredible prices if you keep an eye on sales. By no means is that a complete list, just some popular starting points for you.


Thanks for the responses.

I was looking at the M 6013.
Does the type of 4k HDMI cable matter? Are there some that are better than others or would any do the job?


----------



## CanadaMark

BUman said:


> Thanks for the responses.
> 
> I was looking at the M 6013.
> Does the type of 4k HDMI cable matter? Are there some that are better than others or would any do the job?


As long as it's certified for 18Gbps and 60Hz it *should* work, provided the manufacturer isn't playing any games with buzzwords like "high speed" or "4K HDR" without actually advertising a bandwidth. The bandwidth (18Gbps) is the most important bit as HDMI cables for the most part are "dumb pipes".

You will also want everything in your chain (source, receiver, cables, projector) to be compatible with HDMI 2.0 / HDCP 2.2 for issue-free 4K viewing.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ricwhite said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the blue flashing lights followed by orange followed by projector shutting down. Epson has been amazing in working with me and replacing defective projectors. I cannot say enough good things about them as a company who stands behind their product and works with you to correct the issue to the customer satisfaction.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree that Espon has EXCELLENT customer service and is quick to respond and replace projectors. However, I'm a little concerned to hear of failing 5050UB projectors. There are really not that many out there yet and to hear of several failures already makes me a little nervous - especially after the 5040 fiasco. That is one of the reasons why I'm waiting until fall or winter to upgrade. I want time for some reliability data on the 5050.
Click to expand...

I hear you I had two Epson 5040 s failed due to power supply issues. I know that most of the people who post about things that are negative will come to AVS Forum especially if they are already members so I don't know if the 5050 has more widespread issues or if it's just a matter of seeming like that because of all the people coming here to post about the 5050. Only time will tell but it does throw an amazing picture even if you choose to buy now you do have a two year warranty on the 5050 and we know that Epson has great customer service and backs up their products. You could be enjoying a new 5050 right now and not have any issues whatsoever.


----------



## coderguy

BUman said:


> Anyone have recommendations for a good 4k receiver to go with the Epson 5050?
> 
> Our media room just has Klipsch in-wall speakers (7 of them) for surround sound including ceiling
> 
> We have an old Marantz Receiver and would have a budget up to $2k for a new one. I saw their mid level 4k receiver for around $1400.
> 
> Any recommendations?


I would go with the Denon avr-x4400h or avr-x4500h, but the 4400h is by far the best bang for buck right now.
Buying anything more for in-wall speakers sounds a bit overkill. The avr-x4500h is probably not worth the extra money for the small differences unless you find a good deal on it.

https://www.zkelectronics.com/compare/denon-avr-x4400h/denon-avr-x4500h/

I have full towers that are 4.5 ohms (which is pretty load heavy) and even the Denon avr-x3400h (one model less) has plenty of wattage.
You could even just get an x3400/x3500 if you only plan on running 7 speakers, unless you want to upgrade to 9.2 later or 5.4.x full atmos later.

I would avoid Onkyo or Yamaha as their receivers are slightly brighter, and are generally not quite as good for home theater (IMO) - especially with BRIGHTER Klipsh speakers, but ultimately it does depend on the room. However, I am not sure about if Yamaha and Onkyo fixed their non-flat response tone issues in the higher-end models, but some lower models have a definite and measurable tone issue with high frequencies that is virtually impossible to calibrate around (but does depend on room and speakers as well). The lower-end Yamaha and Onkyo have sloppier tone curves than the Denon which is more flat in the high frequencies (and this is what you want for home theater). There is a definite effect to vocals compared to the slightly cleaner sounding Denons, and I have A/B'd them. I have the old Infinity 360 speakers, which aren't quite as bright as most Klipsh, but they are brighter than Polks or similar.

You could also look at Marantz, but they are a bit more pricey, and at this budget it's really not worth spending all that money on a receiver.
I would focus on other things, like buying more UHD/HDR movies and get a better UHD player or setup a MadVR HTPC.


----------



## ricwhite

skylarlove1999 said:


> I hear you I had two Epson 5040 s failed due to power supply issues. I know that most of the people who post about things that are negative will come to AVS Forum especially if they are already members so I don't know if the 5050 has more widespread issues or if it's just a matter of seeming like that because of all the people coming here to post about the 5050. Only time will tell but it does throw an amazing picture even if you choose to buy now you do have a two year warranty on the 5050 and we know that Epson has great customer service and backs up their products. You could be enjoying a new 5050 right now and not have any issues whatsoever.


I have a 6010UB which still throws a good picture. Since it was the 6000 series, it came with a 3-year warranty. My credit card (Chase) extends the warranty for 1 year - which gave me a 4 year warranty. In fact, right after 3 years, the 6010 kept overheating, I sent it in to Epson and they replaced the entire light engine. So, it's almost like a new projector. And, yes, the Chase credit card paid for the entire thing. So, when I DO upgrade with an Epson, it will be the 6050UB series with the 3 year warranty that I will extend to 4 years.  But, again, I'm in no hurry. I can be patient, so I'm waiting until fall or winter so I can see reliability data and also to see what Cedia 2019 has to offer.


----------



## Luminated67

I’ve own a few AVRs over the years, Sony, Denon, Marantz and Yamaha. Denon & Marantz have the nicest menu interface with Yamaha the most complicated. 

In the price bracket you are willing to spend I’d go for Denon.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ricwhite said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I hear you I had two Epson 5040 s failed due to power supply issues. I know that most of the people who post about things that are negative will come to AVS Forum especially if they are already members so I don't know if the 5050 has more widespread issues or if it's just a matter of seeming like that because of all the people coming here to post about the 5050. Only time will tell but it does throw an amazing picture even if you choose to buy now you do have a two year warranty on the 5050 and we know that Epson has great customer service and backs up their products. You could be enjoying a new 5050 right now and not have any issues whatsoever.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 6010UB which still throws a good picture. Since it was the 6000 series, it came with a 3-year warranty. My credit card (Chase) extends the warranty for 1 year - which gave me a 4 year warranty. In fact, right after 3 years, the 6010 kept overheating, I sent it in to Epson and they replaced the entire light engine. So, it's almost like a new projector. And, yes, the Chase credit card paid for the entire thing. So, when I DO upgrade with an Epson, it will be the 6050UB series with the 3 year warranty that I will extend to 4 years. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif But, again, I'm in no hurry. I can be patient, so I'm waiting until fall or winter so I can see reliability data and also to see what Cedia 2019 has to offer.
Click to expand...

Rumor of true 4k laser projector from Epson at Cedia 2019. Heard from multiple reliable sources here in the states and a couple dealers in the UK. I was given an Epson 6050 from Epson after two failed 5040's and one 5050 that was to replace my 5040, that exhibited the same issue one time as the 5040. So Epson really stepped up.


----------



## gene4ht

JonfromCB said:


> But...the Chief comes complete with bracket/attachment hardware that anchors to the ceiling, It has an adjustable 3 or 4 point quick release system that will fit virtually any future projector, and you can quickly remove and remount without any tools or a second human being. Most importantly it has full dimensional tilt adjustment making it simple and easier than most mounts to get the PJ perfectly level from the "get-go"...this makes it easy and simple to align the image exactly to your screen without having to make image compromising PJ/lens adjustments .





skylarlove1999 said:


> I am in total agreement regarding the chief Mount that came with the Epson 6050. It is by far the best Mount I have owned in 20 years of projectors. Honestly if I had known how amazing the Chief mount was I would have bought one a long time ago and spent the money. Everything you said is completely accurate and true and I finally have my projector aligned perfectly which is something I haven't ever been able to say before with any other mount.


You guys are echoing what’s been continuously repeated over the past two years in the 5040,6040 thread...see my recent posting in this thread! Bottom line: “There ain’t none mo betta.” 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...son-5050ub-6050ub-thread-48.html#post58102176


----------



## VideoDrone

BUman said:


> Anyone have recommendations for a good 4k receiver to go with the Epson 5050?
> 
> Our media room just has Klipsch in-wall speakers (7 of them) for surround sound including ceiling
> 
> We have an old Marantz Receiver and would have a budget up to $2k for a new one. I saw their mid level 4k receiver for around $1400.
> 
> Any recommendations?


My 5050ub paired with Yammie A3080 is true audio bliss for me. Atmos, 4k60, preamp outs. Dual subs, etc, etc. 6 HDMI inputs, 3 HDMI outs. I have a full 11.4 system, with three subs and two external amps and I couldn't be happier.


----------



## VideoDrone

A better option than a mount. Easy to to remove and clean PJ and back up running in no time. Infact I mount the exact spots where there feets are on the shelf and I rarely need to re-align the screen. Which with the 5050ub is a non-issue, but my older PJs like my 8500ub it was nice. Someone ask me before what fiber optic HDMI cable I was using. Its a RUIPRO 50' cable and it is great it love's 40k60hz.lol


----------



## gene4ht

VideoDrone said:


> *A better option than a mount.* Easy to to remove and clean PJ and back up running in no time. Infact I mount the exact spots where there feets are on the shelf and I rarely need to re-align the screen. Which with the 5050ub is a non-issue, but my older PJs like my 8500ub it was nice. Someone ask me before what fiber optic HDMI cable I was using. Its a RUIPRO 50' cable and it is great it love's 40k60hz.lol


Nice execution...

But perhaps “alternative” to a mount is more descriptive. I’ve personally used shelves, boxes, hush boxes, and various mounts over the past twenty years. The Chief Mounting system has become my personal favorite due to its flexibility, ease of use, and ability to maintain “dead on” registration accuracy when installing and reinstalling. Also, with the correct SLB bracket, it can/will accommodate any future PJ regardless of shape and size. In any case, these are personal choices and YMMV.


----------



## skylarlove1999

gene4ht said:


> VideoDrone said:
> 
> 
> 
> *A better option than a mount.* Easy to to remove and clean PJ and back up running in no time. Infact I mount the exact spots where there feets are on the shelf and I rarely need to re-align the screen. Which with the 5050ub is a non-issue, but my older PJs like my 8500ub it was nice. Someone ask me before what fiber optic HDMI cable I was using. Its a RUIPRO 50' cable and it is great it love's 40k60hz.lol
> 
> 
> 
> Nice execution...
> 
> But perhaps “alternative” to a mount is more descriptive. I’ve personally used shelves, boxes, hush boxes, and various mounts over the past twenty years. The Chief Mounting system has become my personal favorite due to its flexibility, ease of use, and ability to maintain “dead on” registration accuracy when installing and reinstalling. Also, with the correct SLB bracket, it can/will accommodate any future PJ regardless of shape and size. In any case, these are personal choices and YMMV.
Click to expand...

Found a great deal on the CHF 4500 mount in black. CHF 4000 is the white version. Usually $300. Almost makes me wish I needed a second one LOL.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF4...829601&hash=item2f2e671f1a:g:DKYAAOSw3Epbh~6a


----------



## CanadaMark

gene4ht said:


> Nice execution...
> 
> But perhaps “alternative” to a mount is more descriptive. I’ve personally used shelves, boxes, hush boxes, and various mounts over the past twenty years. The Chief Mounting system has become my personal favorite due to its flexibility, ease of use, and ability to maintain “dead on” registration accuracy when installing and reinstalling. Also, with the correct SLB bracket, it can/will accommodate any future PJ regardless of shape and size. In any case, these are personal choices and YMMV.


No doubt subjective, but I much prefer mounts as well. I have done the shelf/box before and had issues with vibration from the subwoofer, being that the shelf/box was much more a part of the wall. Also if you ever get a new projector, you probably need a new box/shelf. They also allow dust to accumulate and are more work to keep clean, just in my experience anyway. A good mount makes it easier to get everything aligned flawlessly as well - I was always fiddling with the screw feet on my PJ when I had a shelf and I never got it perfect. Boxes can be good if you really want to quiet down the PJ though.


----------



## dr bill

skylarlove1999 said:


> Found a great deal on the CHF 4500 mount in black. CHF 4000 is the white version. Usually $300. Almost makes me wish I needed a second one LOL.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF4...829601&hash=item2f2e671f1a:g:DKYAAOSw3Epbh~6a


Sold! Only one left now...

Even though my 5050 is white (arriving tomorrow!), and this mount is black (arriving next Wednesday), this was too good a deal to pass up. Too much bragging going on about the Chief mounts.

Have... To... Stop... Spending... Money... :angel:


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Found a great deal on the CHF 4500 mount in black. CHF 4000 is the white version. Usually $300. Almost makes me wish I needed a second one LOL.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF4...ages/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG]KYAAOSw3Epbh~6a
> 
> 
> 
> Sold! Only one left now...
> 
> Even though my 5050 is white (arriving tomorrow!), and this mount is black (arriving next Wednesday), this was too good a deal to pass up. Too much bragging going on about the Chief mounts.
> 
> Have... To... Stop... Spending... Money...
Click to expand...

You won't be disappointed. It might seem a little intimidating right out of the box but honestly I had mine up in mounted in less than 10 minutes.


----------



## LI-HDTV-Viewer

JewDaddy said:


> Hey everyone! I’ve been working on dialing in HDR 4K movie settings and I feel like I finally got them where they look fantastic! I’ve tried Alaric’s Bright and Digital Cinema. They both have things I like and dislike about them. However, I keep finding myself going back to the settings I’ve dialed in myself. I feel like they’re a good balance of both of his bright and digital cinema settings. Would love some feedback if anyone wants to try them out. Let me know!
> 
> Color Mode - Natural
> Brightness - 48
> Contrast - 43
> Color Saturation - 56
> Tint - 50
> Sharpness - 5,5,5
> Color Temp - 7000K
> Skin Tone - 3
> Custom - 46,49,52,45,50,52
> Grayscale
> Adjustment 8 0,0-1
> Adjustment 7 -2,0,0
> Adjustment 6 -1,1,0
> Adjustment 5 -1,-2,-2
> Adjustment 4 -1,0,1
> Adjustment 3 -2,-2,0
> Adjustment 2 0,0,0
> Adjustment 1 0,0,0
> Image Enhancement - Preset 2
> Gamma -2
> Did not adjust RGBCMY
> Lens Iris 0
> Power Consumption - High
> Auto Iris - High
> Video Range - Auto
> EDID - Expanded
> Image Processing - Fine
> HDR10 Setting - 5
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you for sharing. These settings have had the biggest impact on my 5050UB for 4kHDR to date. I've also tried Alaric's settings. 

Any other settings others are using they care to share?

This is my first projector, I'm using a 125" scope screen with a 14'8" throw in a light controlled room but I'm not getting the outcome I was hoping for. I also have 2 LG OLEDs (65E6p and 55B7A) so my expectations are high. My next step is to build a black velvet pit around my screen to reduce reflections back on the screen. The sharpness and color pop I see in other's photos is currently missing.


----------



## BillZ

*I guess I saw this at just the right time.*



dr bill said:


> Sold! Only one left now...
> 
> Even though my 5050 is white (arriving tomorrow!), and this mount is black (arriving next Wednesday), this was too good a deal to pass up. Too much bragging going on about the Chief mounts.
> 
> Have... To... Stop... Spending... Money... :angel:



Not anymore there's not....


----------



## skylarlove1999

BillZ said:


> dr bill said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sold! Only one left now...
> 
> Even though my 5050 is white (arriving tomorrow!), and this mount is black (arriving next Wednesday), this was too good a deal to pass up. Too much bragging going on about the Chief mounts.
> 
> Have... To... Stop... Spending... Money...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not anymore there's not....
Click to expand...

Nice way to grab the last one. Amazing mount.


----------



## Liquid$team

I asked this on the 5040 thread but no responses. Can the 5040/6040 play at 60fps? Or do I have to step up to the 5050/6050?


----------



## BillZ

skylarlove1999 said:


> Nice way to grab the last one. Amazing mount.


Thanks!

I have a few projectors and my 5050UB is hanging from a lesser Chief model as we speak. I had looked at this mount when my JVC 4K (shift) was delivered but since I had others and the price was >$300 I figured I would do with what I had. At this price though, I couldn't resist. In fact, had there been 2 available I think I would have purchased both.

This is the most expensive forum I am a member of....


----------



## skylarlove1999

BillZ said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice way to grab the last one. Amazing mount.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I have a few projectors and my 5050UB is hanging from a lesser Chief model as we speak. I had looked at this mount when my JVC 4K (shift) was delivered but since I had others and the price was >$300 I figured I would do with what I had. At this price though, I couldn't resist. In fact, had there been 2 available I think I would have purchased both.
> 
> This is the most expensive forum I am a member of....
Click to expand...

This was by far the lowest price I have ever seen for this specific mount. With you having multiple projectors and if they are hung at the same time I could see you wanting to buy more than one.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Liquid$team said:


> I asked this on the 5040 thread but no responses. Can the 5040/6040 play at 60fps? Or do I have to step up to the 5050/6050?


The 5040/6040 is unable to support 4K/60FPS . The 5050/6050 does. HDMI 2.0 support allows gamers to play 4K/60p games with HDR. The 5050/6050 fully supports 4K HDR at 60 Hz with up to 4:4:4 (uncompressed) chroma subsampling at 8 bits, or 4:2:2 with 10- or 12-bit processing.


----------



## gene4ht

BillZ said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I have a few projectors and my 5050UB is hanging from a lesser Chief model as we speak. I had looked at this mount when my JVC 4K (shift) was delivered but since I had others and the price was >$300 I figured I would do with what I had. At this price though, I couldn't resist. In fact, had there been 2 available I think I would have purchased both.
> *
> This is the most expensive forum I am a member of....*


Not unexpected! The price of admission for frequenting this forum!


----------



## skylarlove1999

GREAT DEAL ON CHIEF 4500 BLACK MOUNT for EPSON 5050/6050. 

Usually $300 this one is brand new in box for $135 free shipping coming from California. Amazing projector mount.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF4...Kit-For-Pro-Cinema-BLACK-NEW-NIB/233201653020


----------



## skylarlove1999

GREAT DEAL ON CHIEF 4500 BLACK MOUNT for EPSON 5050/6050. 

Usually $300 this one is brand new in box for $149 free shipping. Amazing projector mount. Found another great deal for a fellow AVS Forum member.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHIE...ACK-NEW-IN-BOX-FREE-USA-SHIPPING/223527009281


----------



## Liquid$team

skylarlove1999 said:


> GREAT DEAL ON CHIEF 4500 BLACK MOUNT for EPSON 5050/6050.
> 
> Usually $300 this one is brand new in box for $135 free shipping coming from California. Amazing projector mount.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF4...Kit-For-Pro-Cinema-BLACK-NEW-NIB/233201653020


I have never used a mount. What makes this mount so special? Thanks

Nevermind I just read through page 50.


----------



## mystigiandoll

skylarlove1999 said:


> GREAT DEAL ON CHIEF 4500 BLACK MOUNT for EPSON 5050/6050.
> 
> Usually $300 this one is brand new in box for $149 free shipping. Amazing projector mount. Found another great deal for a fellow AVS Forum member.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHIE...ACK-NEW-IN-BOX-FREE-USA-SHIPPING/223527009281


Does this mount fit other projectors also or will it only support the Epson projectors? Thanks!!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Liquid$team said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> GREAT DEAL ON CHIEF 4500 BLACK MOUNT for EPSON 5050/6050.
> 
> Usually $300 this one is brand new in box for $135 free shipping coming from California. Amazing projector mount.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF4...Kit-For-Pro-Cinema-BLACK-NEW-NIB/233201653020
> 
> 
> 
> I have never used a mount. What makes this mount so special? Thanks
> 
> Nevermind I just read through page 50.
Click to expand...

Chief’s 4000/4500 sets the industry standard for projector mounts with exclusive features that save time on installation and servicing. Bundled with ceiling accessories and a custom interface bracket, the convenient projector mount kit makes it even easier to achieve a simple and sleek installation. Centris®️ technology — enables effortless fingertip positioning and self-adjusts to support different projector weights Microzone™️ adjustments — make projector registration fast and precise Q-Lock™️ quick release lever — provides fast connect/disconnect of the projector for service and enhanced security with an integrated key and lock system. 

This is the first projector I was able to get the image perfectly aligned with my screen. I was able to get it where no one but me would notice the .0001 of an inch the projected image was misaligned horizontally with my screen but my OCD would kick in from time to time and I would wind up worse than before I tried to get it perfect. Now it just is and aligned with such ease. This is my fifth projector in the last 15 years and the first one that is perfectly aligned.


----------



## skylarlove1999

mystigiandoll said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> GREAT DEAL ON CHIEF 4500 BLACK MOUNT for EPSON 5050/6050.
> 
> Usually $300 this one is brand new in box for $149 free shipping. Amazing projector mount. Found another great deal for a fellow AVS Forum member.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHIE...ACK-NEW-IN-BOX-FREE-USA-SHIPPING/223527009281
> 
> 
> 
> Does this mount fit other projectors also or will it only support the Epson projectors? Thanks!!
Click to expand...

I have only used it on Epson projectors but is my understanding it works for other brands as well.

Here is a tool that might help confirm 

https://www.legrandav.com/tools_and_training/tools/mount_finder


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> mystigiandoll said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> GREAT DEAL ON CHIEF 4500 BLACK MOUNT for EPSON 5050/6050.
> 
> Usually $300 this one is brand new in box for $149 free shipping. Amazing projector mount. Found another great deal for a fellow AVS Forum member.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHIE...ACK-NEW-IN-BOX-FREE-USA-SHIPPING/223527009281
> 
> 
> 
> Does this mount fit other projectors also or will it only support the Epson projectors? Thanks!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have only used it on Epson projectors but is my understanding it works for other brands as well.
> 
> Here is a tool that might help confirm
> 
> https://www.legrandav.com/tools_and_training/tools/mount_finder
Click to expand...

The mount itself is universal but each projector has a different mounting pattern of screw holes so you would probably need a different Chief custom interface bracket that matches your projector unless the screw mounting pattern happens to be identical to the Epson 5050/6050.


----------



## Liquid$team

skylarlove1999 said:


> Chief’s 4000/4500 sets the industry standard for projector mounts with exclusive features that save time on installation and servicing. Bundled with ceiling accessories and a custom interface bracket, the convenient projector mount kit makes it even easier to achieve a simple and sleek installation. Centris®️ technology — enables effortless fingertip positioning and self-adjusts to support different projector weights Microzone™️ adjustments — make projector registration fast and precise Q-Lock™️ quick release lever — provides fast connect/disconnect of the projector for service and enhanced security with an integrated key and lock system.
> 
> This is the first projector I was able to get the image perfectly aligned with my screen. I was able to get it where no one but me would notice the .0001 of an inch the projected image was misaligned horizontally with my screen but my OCD would kick in from time to time and I would wind up worse than before I tried to get it perfect. Now it just is and aligned with such ease. This is my fifth projector in the last 15 years and the first one that is perfectly aligned.


It's funny I never thought about the difficulties people have with upside down projectors. Mine has always been in a cubby right side up. Thanks for the response


----------



## dimi123

Liquid$team said:


> I asked this on the 5040 thread but no responses. Can the 5040/6040 play at 60fps? Or do I have to step up to the 5050/6050?


The 5040/6040 supports 4K 60fps at 8-bit 4:2:0.


----------



## gene4ht

mystigiandoll said:


> Does this mount fit other projectors also or will it only support the Epson projectors? Thanks!!





skylarlove1999 said:


> I have only used it on Epson projectors but is my understanding it works for other brands as well.
> 
> Here is a tool that might help confirm
> 
> https://www.legrandav.com/tools_and_training/tools/mount_finder





skylarlove1999 said:


> The mount itself is universal but each projector has a different mounting pattern of screw holes so you would probably need a different Chief custom interface bracket that matches your projector unless the screw mounting pattern happens to be identical to the Epson 5050/6050.


The mount is comprised of two components...(1) the RPA piece which is the primary component containing all the adjustment parameters (yaw, pitch, and roll) and (2) the custom SLB bracket (in the case of the 5040/5050 = SLB357)which is specific and unique to each projector and mates to the RPA. While the RPA component always stays, a unique SLB bracket is available for literally any projector. In the past, it was necessary to specify a projector model so the retail/dealer could determine which SLB bracket to provide. Apparently now, when a projector is specified, the correct two components are bundled with a unique identifier...i.e CHF 4000 or CHF 4500 etc.


----------



## skylarlove1999

gene4ht said:


> mystigiandoll said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does this mount fit other projectors also or will it only support the Epson projectors? Thanks!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have only used it on Epson projectors but is my understanding it works for other brands as well.
> 
> Here is a tool that might help confirm
> 
> https://www.legrandav.com/tools_and_training/tools/mount_finder
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The mount itself is universal but each projector has a different mounting pattern of screw holes so you would probably need a different Chief custom interface bracket that matches your projector unless the screw mounting pattern happens to be identical to the Epson 5050/6050.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The mount is comprised of two components...(1) the RPA piece which is the primary component containing all the adjustment parameters (yaw, pitch, and roll) and (2) the custom SLB bracket which is specific and unique to each projector mates to the RPA. While the RPA component always stays, a unique SLB bracket is available for literally any projector.
Click to expand...

Thank you @gene4ht for your much better and eloquent explanation of how most Chief mounts work. You have a remarkable talent for taking a complex subject and using words to simplify the topic. Thank you. Can you explain what RPA and SLB stands for in regards to the projector mount? Thanks in advance for your assistance.


----------



## JonfromCB

Liquid$team said:


> It's funny I never thought about the difficulties people have with upside down projectors. Mine has always been in a cubby right side up. Thanks for the response


The PJ/screen alignment problem is not exclusive to a ceiling mounted PJ. Shelf and other hard surface "right side up" projectors, more often than not have to resort to using picture distorting PJ/lens adjustments to align the image with the screen because it's impossible to vertically and horizontally align the fixed surface the PJ is sitting on perfectly with the screen. That's where ONLY the "yaw, pitch, and roll" adjustments gene4ht talks about in his post above provides what no "fixed" hard surface or shelf mount can. I'm sure " yaw, pitch, and roll" tables or shelves exist for folks who place their PJs right-side-up on a hard surface such as you describe. That would be a much better option than making image and lens adjustments to align the thrown picture perfectly with the screen.


----------



## rbk123

JonfromCB said:


> The PJ/screen alignment problem is not exclusive to a ceiling mounted PJ. Shelf and other hard surface "right side up" projectors, more often than not have to resort to using picture distorting PJ/lens adjustments to align the image with the screen because it's impossible to vertically and horizontally align the fixed surface the PJ is sitting on perfectly with the screen.


Not sure about "impossible". Mine is flat surface mounted and it is perfectly aligned with no picture distortion adjustments.


----------



## JonfromCB

rbk123 said:


> Not sure about "impossible". Mine is flat surface mounted and it is perfectly aligned with no picture distortion adjustments.


Yea I get what you are saying, but the probability of perfect on axis alignment of a hard surface and a screen "x" number of feet away is statistically nill....you are in the lucky minority. The point is; minimizing or eliminating alignment via the PJ/lens which will always compromise picture quality to some degree. Whether ceiling mounted or surface mounted, attaching a PJ to a three axis adjustable aparatice will eliminate most or often all alignment issues. It was invented to solve a problem...it works, it is what it is.


----------



## gene4ht

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you @*gene4ht* for your much better and eloquent explanation of how most Chief mounts work. You have a remarkable talent for taking a complex subject and using words to simplify the topic. Thank you. Can you explain what RPA and SLB stands for in regards to the projector mount? Thanks in advance for your assistance.


LOL! Appreciate the kind remarks...but I can't take credit. I'm paraphrasing the information I gleaned from a Chief technical resource I spoke with a couple of years ago. And coincidentally, I asked the same question regarding the RPA/SLB acronyms. Unfortunately, Chief's sales/technical personnel were unable provide any explanation....hmmm. Thus, it remains a mystery...for the time being!


----------



## Liquid$team

JonfromCB said:


> Yea I get what you are saying, but the probability of perfect on axis alignment of a hard surface and a screen "x" number of feet away is statistically nill....you are in the lucky minority. The point is; minimizing or eliminating alignment via the PJ/lens which will always compromise picture quality to some degree. Whether ceiling mounted or surface mounted, attaching a PJ to a three axis adjustable aparatice will eliminate most or often all alignment issues. It was invented to solve a problem...it works, it is what it is.


What you wrote does make sense.... I have mine lined up pretty straight... but my 8500ub from 2009 has manual lens shift and there is no "hard" stopping points to tell you when your lens is perfectly center. I assume the newer models with motorized lens shift do have marked center points right?


----------



## ScudDawg

Liquid$team said:


> What you wrote does make sense.... I have mine lined up pretty straight... but my 8500ub from 2009 has manual lens shift and there is no "hard" stopping points to tell you when your lens is perfectly center. I assume the newer models with motorized lens shift do have marked center points right?


not that I am aware of.


----------



## mystigiandoll

What do you guys think the max screen size is for this PJ? I have a 177" wide 16:9 screen, gain should be around 1.0 (XYScreen SoundMax 4k) in a completely light controlled room with all dark surfaces (not Velvet but all dark). Throw range can be anywhere from 10 ft to 30 ft. Obviously light output for a screen that large is a concern but another is pixel fill, I wonder if I would notice clearly the 4 million vs 8 million. Oh and seating distance is 13 ft for the 'immersive' seating and 23' for normal viewing. I was planning on a HTPC with MadVR for HDR tone mapping. I was hoping to find a temporary stop gap while lasers and 4k become a lot more affordable in the next few years.


----------



## Liquid$team

ScudDawg said:


> not that I am aware of.


Well if thats true then how can you ever be certain your lens is centered?


----------



## CanadaMark

mystigiandoll said:


> What do you guys think the max screen size is for this PJ? I have a 177" wide 16:9 screen, gain should be around 1.0 (XYScreen SoundMax 4k) in a completely light controlled room with all dark surfaces (not Velvet but all dark). Throw range can be anywhere from 10 ft to 30 ft. Obviously light output for a screen that large is a concern but another is pixel fill, I wonder if I would notice clearly the 4 million vs 8 million. Oh and seating distance is 13 ft for the 'immersive' seating and 23' for normal viewing. I was planning on a HTPC with MadVR for HDR tone mapping. I was hoping to find a temporary stop gap while lasers and 4k become a lot more affordable in the next few years.


Resolution is more of a personal thing as to whether or not you can notice smaller differences between 4MP and 8MP on-screen (I think a lot of people even struggle to notice 4K vs 1080P on more modest sized screens), but the bigger the screen and the closer you sit to it, the more noticeable it should be to the average person. In my opinion, people will notice better color and/or better contrast ratios before small resolution differences, but that is always subjective. The overwhelming consensus with these Epsons between forums and professional reviews seems to be that there is virtually no easily discernible difference between Epson's enhanced 'fake' 4K and native 4K, with the Epson sometimes even being perceived as sharper due to the processing. Sitting really close to an enormous screen though might change that, but you also need to spend several times the cost of the Epson to get native 4K with the same feature set and lens quality.

Epson lists the maximum image size at 300". Brightness will be determined by your room, your screen, lamp mode, mounting distance, your preferred content (P3 color modes and 3D glasses will cut brightness) etc. Using the calculator over at ProjectorCentral, a 177" screen would be no problem for it at all and minimum distance would be 17.4ft. Even moving back to 30ft you wouldn't take too bad of a brightness hit (29FL to 24FL according to the PC calculator).

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


If this is simply a temporary solution for you, you might consider the 4010 model to save some money if you don't need 40K 60P HDR (gaming, mostly).


----------



## BillZ

skylarlove1999 said:


> GREAT DEAL ON CHIEF 4500 BLACK MOUNT for EPSON 5050/6050.
> 
> Usually $300 this one is brand new in box for $149 free shipping. Amazing projector mount. Found another great deal for a fellow AVS Forum member.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHIE...ACK-NEW-IN-BOX-FREE-USA-SHIPPING/223527009281


Once I receive mine I will test to see how the plate fits the JVC and if it works I will surely by another at these prices.


----------



## rbk123

JonfromCB said:


> Yea I get what you are saying, but the probability of perfect on axis alignment of a hard surface and a screen "x" number of feet away is statistically nill....you are in the lucky minority. The point is; minimizing or eliminating alignment via the PJ/lens which will always compromise picture quality to some degree. Whether ceiling mounted or surface mounted, attaching a PJ to a three axis adjustable aparatice will eliminate most or often all alignment issues. It was invented to solve a problem...it works, it is what it is.


I guess I'm confused. If you have a PJ with motorized lens shift, that is the same as using the mount to angle the projector up/down/left right. If your surface is within the height range covered by the motorized lens shift. Is this not the case? After that pitch/yaw can be done via the projector's feet, again within the correct range that allows for a rectangled image.


----------



## ScudDawg

Liquid$team said:


> ScudDawg said:
> 
> 
> 
> not that I am aware of.
> 
> 
> 
> Well if thats true then how can you ever be certain your lens is centered?
Click to expand...

 Epson has a test pattern, same one from previous models.


----------



## ckronengold

Is there a normal / acceptable / usual amount of dust or debris or whatnot on the lens of a projector? 

I just turned on my new 5050 for the first time and was really shocked at what i saw on the lens. Its not on the surface, tried to blow some canned air from a distance, but nothing moved. 

Before I flip out, is this just par for the course and not anything that can be seen in the image? I haven't even hooked up a source yet. Just turned it on and started losing my $h!t about the condition of the lens.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Is there a normal / acceptable / usual amount of dust or debris or whatnot on the lens of a projector?
> 
> I just turned on my new 5050 for the first time and was really shocked at what i saw on the lens. Its not on the surface, tried to blow some canned air from a distance, but nothing moved.
> 
> Before I flip out, is this just par for the course and not anything that can be seen in the image? I haven't even hooked up a source yet. Just turned it on and started losing my $h!t about the condition of the lens.


Seems pretty normal and I am on my fifth projector in 15 years. You have a two year warranty so relax breathe and enjoy your view. Don't look at the lens look at the screen LOL. I wouldn't recommend shooting canned air at the projector under any circumstances. You are much more likely to do more harm than good.


----------



## Viche

VideoDrone said:


> A better option than a mount. Easy to to remove and clean PJ and back up running in no time. Infact I mount the exact spots where there feets are on the shelf and I rarely need to re-align the screen. Which with the 5050ub is a non-issue, but my older PJs like my 8500ub it was nice. Someone ask me before what fiber optic HDMI cable I was using. Its a RUIPRO 50' cable and it is great it love's 40k60hz.lol


 I am probably going to shelf mount. How difficult is it to align the projector sitting on its own feet versus hanging from a ceiling mount. I just caught up and saw that some claim that it's difficult to get perfect, and there is the concern about cleaning under the projector. I also wonder, since when it's sitting upright you have less downward lens shift, and I plan to have it high on a shelf to keep the fan noise away from me, won't I be using more of the extreme end of the lens shift?

Seems like a waste, but I guess I could use a mount within the shelf. It will be a custom built shelf. 

How do you create a hush box with a projector like this where the fans are in the front?


----------



## dr bill

*FINALLY!!!*:grin:

The ProjectorReviews.com 5050 calibration settings have been posted:

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/

Thanks very much! Been waiting for these. Let the tinkering begin...


----------



## dr bill

Advanced calibration:

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-advanced-calibration/


----------



## Liquid$team

ScudDawg said:


> Epson has a test pattern, same one from previous models.


Unless I am missing something (which could be the case) the test pattern will help you line up the screen but how does it help you center the lens on the machine?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Best Buy has the 5050 $200 off again . Can't really beat that with the 24 month free financing. 

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/epson-...h-dynamic-range-white/6344895.p?skuId=6344895


----------



## ScudDawg

Liquid$team said:


> Unless I am missing something (which could be the case) the test pattern will help you line up the screen but how does it help you center the lens on the machine?


Yes, it puts up a blue and white grid, getting to corners straight is real challenge for me most of the time.


----------



## Liquid$team

ScudDawg said:


> Yes, it puts up a blue and white grid, getting to corners straight is real challenge for me most of the time.


right.... it helps you set up the screen... but it doesn't center the lens to the projector.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

skylarlove1999 said:


> Best Buy has the 5050 $200 off again . Can't really beat that with the 24 month free financing.
> 
> https://www.bestbuy.com/site/epson-...h-dynamic-range-white/6344895.p?skuId=6344895


Wish Best Buy Canada had this.


----------



## Luminated67

dr bill said:


> *FINALLY!!!*:grin:
> 
> The ProjectorReviews.com 5050 calibration settings have been posted:
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/
> 
> Thanks very much! Been waiting for these. Let the tinkering begin...





dr bill said:


> Advanced calibration:
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-advanced-calibration/


Just for fun I put in these settings into my PJ to compare with my calibrated ones. The NATURAL setting for watch SDR doesn’t quite look as good as my settings but it’s not bad and way better than default, the surprise is the CINEMA DIGITAL setting which is really good, probably gives more pop to the colours compared to my HDR setting.

Didn’t like the bright HDR setting at all but this might suit someone else.


----------



## bitmap42

The easiest way to find the center of the lens is to attach a wire to the upper right of the screen, then attach a pencil such that the pencil is about where the projector will be and draw an arc. Take the wire and attach it to the upper left and draw a second arc (the two arcs should intersect). Now make the wire a few inches longer or shorter and repeat the arc from the upper left and then the upper right. You should now have two sets of intersecting arcs. Draw a line between the two points and that is the center line of the lens.


----------



## Viche

bitmap42 said:


> The easiest way to find the center of the lens is to attach a wire to the upper right of the screen, then attach a pencil such that the pencil is about where the projector will be and draw an arc. Take the wire and attach it to the upper left and draw a second arc (the two arcs should intersect). Now make the wire a few inches longer or shorter and repeat the arc from the upper left and then the upper right. You should now have two sets of intersecting arcs. Draw a line between the two points and that is the center line of the lens.


Why not just go to the extreme left lens shift and make a mark on the wall where the left side of the projected image is. Then go to the extreme right lens shift and mark the rightmost edge of the screen on the wall. Measure the distance between the two marks, and then mark the halfway point. KISS


----------



## rjguk

Viche said:


> Why not just go to the extreme left lens shift and make a mark on the wall where the left side of the projected image is. Then go to the extreme right lens shift and mark the rightmost edge of the screen on the wall. Measure the distance between the two marks, and then mark the halfway point. KISS



That assumes that the PJ is at the correct position opposite the mid point of the screen and is square to the screen. Even if at the right place but not square to the screen that could give a hafway point that isn't actually at a point on the PJ/screen perpendicular line.
I think it needs the physical measuring as noted by bitmap42 to get the PJ position right. Then square it up as close as possible. Then using the pattern with the left/right max extent can establish the 'middle' lens shift position, the 'unshifted' position.
Then with it 'unshifted' twist the PJ to get the pattern to line up with the mid-point of the screen.


We are now pretty much square, so repeat the left/right max extent procedure to fine-tune the 'unshifted' mid point, and realign with that as the current setting.


----------



## VideoDrone

Viche said:


> I am probably going to shelf mount. How difficult is it to align the projector sitting on its own feet versus hanging from a ceiling mount. I just caught up and saw that some claim that it's difficult to get perfect, and there is the concern about cleaning under the projector. I also wonder, since when it's sitting upright you have less downward lens shift, and I plan to have it high on a shelf to keep the fan noise away from me, won't I be using more of the extreme end of the lens shift?
> 
> Seems like a waste, but I guess I could use a mount within the shelf. It will be a custom built shelf.
> 
> How do you create a hush box with a projector like this where the fans are in the front?



I have 9" ceilings so it sits nice and high on the ceiling. The combination of a high ceilings and an open box mount is that even in high lamp mode the fan noise is muted nicely, with great airflow! I repeat fan noise is nicely muted. With a regular mount, you get way more noise. 

My friend saw my 5050 and he bought one the next day to replace an Optoma UHD60 DLP, but with a ceiling mount and we both noticed the noise difference, in fact I now "have to" do the box for him....LOL

It also hides how large the projector really is (but I don't care about that nonsense)

Also lets say your screen is not perfectly level on the wall, you can use the projector feet for easy alignment

As with all my Epson's this has an insane amount of len shifts so no concern there. (DLP manufacturers are you listening...lol) 

Best part as I mention before cleaning and remounting, takes no time


----------



## Upswright1

sahil0909 said:


> Hey how are you? i just wanted to request your opinion on something if it's okay with you please, i'm currently debating between the epson 4010 and the 5050. The 4010 is perfect for me except just one thing, 4k hdr gaming. Which is available on the 5050 due to the hdmi but not on the 4010. This is literally the only thing that's concerning me right now, since im personally not interested in any other improvements which come with the 5050. So i wanted to ask your opinion since you seem like the right person to ask, since i see you've had the 5040 (which has the hdmi shortcoming just like the 4010), you've also had the linker on the 5040, and you now have the 5050. i'd really appreciate your opinion.
> the questions i wanted to ask you are:
> 1. How big was the improvement in quality from the 5040 4k sdr gaming, to the 5040 4k hdr gaming with the linker?
> 2. How big was the improvement in quality from the 5040 4k hdr gaming with the linker, to the 5050 4k hdr gaming without linker?
> i hope to also learn from this whether the hdr capabilities added by the linker are really at the same level, and really improve the picture just as much as actual hdr on a capable display like the 5050.
> 
> Lastly, im not fascinated by 4k hdr gaming just to get to see that 'im playing in 4k hdr', but its just in order to get the better picture quality, so with that being said would you say that for someone like me, for whom the 4010 is perfect in every other way, would it really be worth spending all that extra money for the 5050 JUST to get games in 4k hdr over 4k sdr on the 4010? (Purely in terms of picture quality)
> 
> Thank you very much


Just jumping in here, I have the 4010 and just upgraded to 5050. Picture quality and HDR are definitely worth the Money. 5050 looks amazing with hdr. You will not regret getting it. IMHO


----------



## Viche

rjguk said:


> That assumes that the PJ is at the correct position opposite the mid point of the screen and is square to the screen. Even if at the right place but not square to the screen that could give a hafway point that isn't actually at a point on the PJ/screen perpendicular line.
> I think it needs the physical measuring as noted by bitmap42 to get the PJ position right. Then square it up as close as possible. Then using the pattern with the left/right max extent can establish the 'middle' lens shift position, the 'unshifted' position.
> Then with it 'unshifted' twist the PJ to get the pattern to line up with the mid-point of the screen.
> 
> 
> We are now pretty much square, so repeat the left/right max extent procedure to fine-tune the 'unshifted' mid point, and realign with that as the current setting.


 I guess it depends on the objective of the OP. I didn't get the sense that he was trying to figure out where to place his projector but rather simply determine the center of the lens shift based on where his projector was currently sitting. you'd be able to tell whether or not the projector was squared up with the wall simply by looking at the keystoning of the image. From there if he wants to maintain neutral lens shift he can simply move the projector left or right until it lines up with the edge of his desired screen location. OP can chime in with his/her objective


----------



## Viche

VideoDrone said:


> I have 9" ceilings so it sits nice and high on the ceiling. The combination of a high ceilings and an open box mount is that even in high lamp mode the fan noise is muted nicely, with great airflow! I repeat fan noise is nicely muted. With a regular mount, you get way more noise.
> 
> My friend saw my 5050 and he bought one the next day to replace an Optoma UHD60 DLP, but with a ceiling mount and we both noticed the noise difference, in fact I now "have to" do the box for him....LOL
> 
> It also hides how large the projector really is (but I don't care about that nonsense)
> 
> Also lets say your screen is not perfectly level on the wall, you can use the projector feet for easy alignment
> 
> As with all my Epson's this has an insane amount of len shifts so no concern there. (DLP manufacturers are you listening...lol)
> 
> Best part as I mention before cleaning and remounting, takes no time


Interesting side benefit. I would've thought that the majority the noise still would reach you since the air intake and outtakes are on the front of the projector and those would likely be close to the edge of your box, but are you saying there's more noise that comes through the projector chassis that is blocked by the box?


----------



## rjguk

Viche said:


> I guess it depends on the objective of the OP. I didn't get the sense that he was trying to figure out where to place his projector but rather simply determine the center of the lens shift based on where his projector was currently sitting. you'd be able to tell whether or not the projector was squared up with the wall simply by looking at the keystoning of the image. From there if he wants to maintain neutral lens shift he can simply move the projector left or right until it lines up with the edge of his desired screen location. OP can chime in with his/her objective



True. Having seen evidence of people tilting PJs and then using keystone I thought I'd go for the 'make sure everything else is correct first' approach


----------



## gene4ht

VideoDrone said:


> I have 9" ceilings so it sits nice and high on the ceiling. The combination of a high ceilings and an open box mount is that even in high lamp mode the fan noise is muted nicely, with great airflow! I repeat fan noise is nicely muted. *With a regular mount, you get way more noise.*
> 
> My friend saw my 5050 and he bought one the next day to replace an Optoma UHD60 DLP, but with a ceiling mount and we both noticed the noise difference, in fact I now "have to" do the box for him....LOL
> 
> It also hides how large the projector really is (but I don't care about that nonsense)
> 
> Also lets say your screen is not perfectly level on the wall, you can use the projector feet for easy alignment
> 
> As with all my Epson's this has an insane amount of len shifts so no concern there. (DLP manufacturers are you listening...lol)
> 
> Best part as I mention before cleaning and remounting, takes no time


Fan noise is always a personal perception thing...and obviously varies with different people. Having had a dozen or so PJ's over the past 20 years, I have never been bothered by fan noise. Once immersed in a movie, any fan noise disappears for me...even during quiet scenes. Of course....YMMV.


----------



## JonfromCB

ScudDawg said:


> Epson has a test pattern, same one from previous models.


Exactly, use the test patterns to center and align the picture with the top, bottom, sides and corners of the screen. A fully dimensional adjustable mounting platform (like the Chief) will often fully eliminate the need to use of H-position, V-position, or keystone adjustments to achieve that alignment = minimal optical distortions introduced.


----------



## Viche

JonfromCB said:


> Exactly, use the test patterns to center and align the picture with the top, bottom, sides and corners of the screen. A fully dimensional adjustable mounting platform (like the Chief) will often fully eliminate the need to use of H-position, V-position, or keystone adjustments to achieve that alignment = minimal optical distortions introduced.


How does the chief prevent you from using vertical and horizontal lens shift?


----------



## misterg51

Luminated67 said:


> Just for fun I put in these settings into my PJ to compare with my calibrated ones. The NATURAL setting for watch SDR doesn’t quite look as good as my settings but it’s not bad and way better than default, the surprise is the CINEMA DIGITAL setting which is really good, probably gives more pop to the colours compared to my HDR setting.
> 
> Didn’t like the bright HDR setting at all but this might suit someone else.



The settings either work or not based on the screen you have IMO. That being said, watched Lion King 4K out of my Oppo with default settings and the HDR above. Stunning to say the least. The natural is correct for me watching Comcast but haven't tested Blu-Ray. Didn't bother with the bright one. I'm into color correct and using the P3 colorspace. That is why the HDR looks so sweet. To each her/his own. My current motto is watch and enjoy content and stop pixel peeping


----------



## VideoDrone

​


Viche said:


> Interesting side benefit. I would've thought that the majority the noise still would reach you since the air intake and outtakes are on the front of the projector and those would likely be close to the edge of your box, but are you saying there's more noise that comes through the projector chassis that is blocked by the box?



I think it is a couple of things, first you have a bottom layer of material underneath the PJ that blocks probably fan noise from inside the chassis. Also as the fan ejects air out the back and that box helps channel that noise away from the viewer underneath. 

Regardless I am not saying it some magic cure for noise, and this PJ is so quiet in all modes but high power. And even then you only notice it during quiet passages.


----------



## Viche

VideoDrone said:


> ​
> 
> I think it is a couple of things, first you have a bottom layer of material underneath the PJ that blocks probably fan noise from inside the chassis. Also as the fan ejects air out the back and that box helps channel that noise away from the viewer underneath.
> 
> Regardless I am not saying it some magic cure for noise, and this PJ is so quiet in all modes but high power. And even then you only notice it during quiet passages.


Got it, but I thought the projector exhausted air out the front. If it exhausted out the back, the box would cause heating issues.


----------



## Luminated67

misterg51 said:


> The settings either work or not based on the screen you have IMO. That being said, watched Lion King 4K out of my Oppo with default settings and the HDR above. Stunning to say the least. The natural is correct for me watching Comcast but haven't tested Blu-Ray. Didn't bother with the bright one. I'm into color correct and using the P3 colorspace. That is why the HDR looks so sweet. To each her/his own. My current motto is watch and enjoy content and stop pixel peeping


It was Lion King 4K where I noticed the pop in colour with those settings. Would have to spend more time with a few more movies to see if that opinion remains but was really surprised how vibrant and bright the image looks despite the HDR slider at 8.


----------



## misterg51

Luminated67 said:


> It was Lion King 4K where I noticed the pop in colour with those settings. Would have to spend more time with a few more movies to see if that opinion remains but was really surprised how vibrant and bright the image looks despite the HDR slider at 8.



Avatar Blu-Ray Directors Cut is spot on in Natural settings. Not HDR of course but colors pop here as well. Can appreciate what Cameron did years ago. Wish he would do 4K HDR.


----------



## Luminated67

misterg51 said:


> Avatar Blu-Ray Directors Cut is spot on in Natural settings. Not HDR of course but colors pop here as well. Can appreciate what Cameron did years ago. Wish he would do 4K HDR.


I think the difference for me is that mine was professionally calibrated for my projector in my room with my screen which is why my own settings work better but the Natural setting is definitely good too, HDR is a bit of a mine field, I still believe the ones that were calibrated work better but these ones are very good indeed and if you want a vibrant image this setting will give you that.


----------



## dr bill

*Money well spent!
*
Just received and set up my new 5050 last night. Coming from a Sony VPL-40ES. The 5050 is probably 50% bigger, but once installed from my celiing, it looks very nice, professional. Wish it wasn't white.

Projecting onto a 150" Seymour 130" AV XD Screen (acoustically transparent - very nice upgrade from a regular screen). Projecting at a distance of about 16'. Light-controlled room.

Right out of the box, using the Natural settings with the projectorreviews.com settings, the 5050 is obviously generating much deeper blacks, which sets up the higher contrast with the brighter colors. Very impressive - honestly reminds me of my OLED TVs. Just much, much bigger.

I'm having 4K handshake issues with my "old" Marantz SR7008, so I've got a new cord on order. I was able to plug in my Amazon Fire TV directly into the 5050, so I could see (but not hear) 4k HDR. Very nice.

I'm more excited about how my Blu-rays look, though. I showed my entire family, one at a time, the opening credits of Spider-man: Into the Spider-Verse. Colors really pop. Lots of deep blacks. Lots of bright colors. My jaw literally dropped the first time around.

This 5050 is clearly brighter than my Sony 40ES. Much newer techology, much better projector. I really like the features new to me - like the ability to focus remotely rather than manually - allows me to get right up to the screen and make adjustments from there.

And when I first turned on the projector, and the lens cover slid back - "You had me at 'hello'..." :wink:


----------



## ckronengold

​


dr bill said:


> Advanced calibration:
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-advanced-calibration/


Who else spent the weekend comparing the Projector Central settings to @Alaric's? 

I found Aleric's "HDR Accurate" to feel more, uh, 'accurate' than the "Best Mode for 4k/HDR." I felt like the "Best Mode" had a little more pop and depth to the image, but also had a bit of red push, particularly in skin tones. I was watching The Greatest Showman for demo material, since its what we were using at the Epson event in NYC last month. 

Anyone else have any thoughts on those settings? Hoping I can split the difference somehow.


----------



## Alaric

ckronengold said:


> ​
> Who else spent the weekend comparing the Projector Central settings to @aleric's?
> 
> I found Aleric's "HDR Accurate" to feel more, uh, 'accurate' than the "Best Mode for 4k/HDR." I felt like the "Best Mode" had a little more pop and depth to the image, but also had a bit of red push, particularly in skin tones. I was watching The Greatest Showman for demo material, since its what we were using at the Epson event in NYC last month.
> 
> Anyone else have any thoughts on those settings? Hoping I can split the difference somehow.


Yet to have a play myself with them (just spotted them). I've been meaning to get my meter out and have a play with some other settings I have as well (Cinema and Bright Cinema may work better to base accurate/bright off, for this PJ contrary to the idea of following what was done with the older model)!

Alas i'm packing and preping to go to a music festival in Germany this comming weekend so may not really get to play before flying out Thursday, we'll see.

Personally i'm always reading and learning and would like to enter these, see how they read and then tweak them for my exact set-up. Calibration is so very interactive and there are multiple ways to get to a similar destination!

I do find it curious about the 10 vs 8 levels thing. HCFR allows you to set how many patterns used, not sure what software the pro calibrator was using?


----------



## Liquid$team

Ordered a 6050 from Dream Media a couple days ago. Can't wait to get it in. My Epson 8500ub has been a great projector but it time for a Faux K upgrade! I get about 114 inch screen from the 8500 at its current distance. I had to alter the projector shelf as the 6050 is much bigger so while I was at it I was able to increase the distance to the screen. Hopefully I will be able to get the entire 120 inch screen filled in. I need to get 11'9" away so we'll see. Zach gave me a good price so I suggest contacting Dream Media if you are in the market.


----------



## gene4ht

Liquid$team said:


> Ordered a 6050 from Dream Media a couple days ago. Can't wait to get it in. My Epson 8500ub has been a great projector but it time for a Faux K upgrade! I get about 114 inch screen from the 8500 at its current distance. I had to alter the projector shelf as the 6050 is much bigger so while I was at it I was able to increase the distance to the screen. Hopefully I will be able to get the entire 120 inch screen filled in. I need to get 11'9" away so we'll see. Zach gave me a good price so I suggest contacting Dream Media if you are in the market.


Congrats! Looking forward to your impressions. Also, not many here have posted pictures of their installations. Perhaps you could start a trend!


----------



## Gellert1

I've had my 5050ub for nearly 30 days now. (Just 140 hours on the bulb). I leave it permanently set on dynamic mode, medium bulb brightness, iris off, enhancement set to "4". 

Best feature on this projector is the lens memory. I absolutely love going from a 120" 16:9 to 150" cinescope in about 8 seconds.

My screen is a grey, 1.3 gain ALR 2.40:1 aspect ratio with 16-color LED back lighting. Projector is mounted exactly centered. 0/0 keystone.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> *Money well spent!
> *
> Just received and set up my new 5050 last night. Coming from a Sony VPL-40ES. The 5050 is probably 50% bigger, but once installed from my celiing, it looks very nice, professional. Wish it wasn't white.
> 
> Projecting onto a 150" Seymour 130" AV XD Screen (acoustically transparent - very nice upgrade from a regular screen). Projecting at a distance of about 16'. Light-controlled room.
> 
> Right out of the box, using the Natural settings with the projectorreviews.com settings, the 5050 is obviously generating much deeper blacks, which sets up the higher contrast with the brighter colors. Very impressive - honestly reminds me of my OLED TVs. Just much, much bigger.
> 
> I'm having 4K handshake issues with my "old" Marantz SR7008, so I've got a new cord on order. I was able to plug in my Amazon Fire TV directly into the 5050, so I could see (but not hear) 4k HDR. Very nice.
> 
> I'm more excited about how my Blu-rays look, though. I showed my entire family, one at a time, the opening credits of Spider-man: Into the Spider-Verse. Colors really pop. Lots of deep blacks. Lots of bright colors. My jaw literally dropped the first time around.
> 
> This 5050 is clearly brighter than my Sony 40ES. Much newer techology, much better projector. I really like the features new to me - like the ability to focus remotely rather than manually - allows me to get right up to the screen and make adjustments from there.
> 
> And when I first turned on the projector, and the lens cover slid back - "You had me at 'hello'..."


I see you're using the pcmd mount for now. I believe you have a chief mount on order correct? Glad to see another happy Epson 5050 owner. Enjoy.


----------



## skylarlove1999

gene4ht said:


> Liquid$team said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered a 6050 from Dream Media a couple days ago. Can't wait to get it in. My Epson 8500ub has been a great projector but it time for a Faux K upgrade! I get about 114 inch screen from the 8500 at its current distance. I had to alter the projector shelf as the 6050 is much bigger so while I was at it I was able to increase the distance to the screen. Hopefully I will be able to get the entire 120 inch screen filled in. I need to get 11'9" away so we'll see. Zach gave me a good price so I suggest contacting Dream Media if you are in the market.
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats! Looking forward to your impressions. Also, not many here have posted pictures of their installations. Perhaps you could start a trend!/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Here is pic of my 6050. Mounted in a drop ceiling in my basement. Solid wood board between my floor joist attached with decking screws. Pipe attached with decking screws. I can literally hang from that pipe that holds my 6050UB. Using the chief mount that came with the projector.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Crutchfield has the 5050 on sale again as does Best Buy. 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_2785050UB/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB.html?omnews=8325888


----------



## gene4ht

skylarlove1999 said:


> Here is pic of my 6050. Mounted in a drop ceiling in my basement. Solid wood board between my floor joist attached with decking screws. Pipe attached with decking screws. I can literally hang from that pipe that holds my 6050UB. Using the chief mount that came with the projector.


Excellent! It appears you have the newer (1) RPA piece (RPA elite) and of course (2) the custom bracket (SLB357) specifically for the 4000/5000/6000 Epson series projectors.


----------



## dr bill

skylarlove1999 said:


> Crutchfield has the 5050 on sale again as does Best Buy.
> 
> https://www.crutchfield.com/p_2785050UB/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB.html?omnews=8325888


I recently purchased mine from Amazon for the same price. Through Amazon, I was able to add an additional 3-year warranty (ASURION 3 Year Electronics Protection Plan) for $57.99, so I'm now covered for 5 years. Then it will be time for the Epson laser projector.


----------



## gene4ht

skylarlove1999 said:


> Crutchfield has the 5050 on sale again as does Best Buy.
> 
> https://www.crutchfield.com/p_2785050UB/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB.html?omnews=8325888


Sounds like this is possibly an Epson sponsored/endorsed sale or price reduction...following the trend we saw with the 5040.


----------



## Liquid$team

gene4ht said:


> Sounds like this is a Epson sponsored/endorsed sale or price reduction following the trend we saw with the 5040.


It seems strange to me that the 6050 was discounted right away and the 5050 took months for a sale. I have not purchased a projector since 2010.... is this par for the course for Epson?


----------



## gene4ht

Liquid$team said:


> It seems strange to me that the 6050 was discounted right away and the 5050 took months for a sale. I have not purchased a projector since 2010.... is this par for the course for Epson?


This is only an assumption on my part....but sales pricing and discounting in general is/has always been driven by sales performance. It's a good bet that sales of 5050's are far greater than the 6050 so early discounting was likely implemented to stimulate sales numbers for the 6050. Perhaps others could chime in with different perspectives or insight.


----------



## Liquid$team

gene4ht said:


> This is only an assumption on my part....but sales pricing and discounting in general is/has always been driven by sales performance. It's a good bet that sales of 5050's are far greater than the 6050 so early discounting was likely implemented to stimulate sales numbers for the 6050. Perhaps others could chime in with different perspectives or insight.


The 6050 MSRP is $3999.... and it was discounted hundreds of dollars the day it hit the street so it's not a slow sales issue. I'm guessing because it's a "pro" installers version but that is also just an asumption on my part.


----------



## Luminated67

ckronengold said:


> ​
> Who else spent the weekend comparing the Projector Central settings to @Alaric's?
> 
> I found Aleric's "HDR Accurate" to feel more, uh, 'accurate' than the "Best Mode for 4k/HDR." I felt like the "Best Mode" had a little more pop and depth to the image, but also had a bit of red push, particularly in skin tones. I was watching The Greatest Showman for demo material, since its what we were using at the Epson event in NYC last month.
> 
> Anyone else have any thoughts on those settings? Hoping I can split the difference somehow.


Yeah you have describe the 4K HDR settings perfectly, when I switch from my calibrated setup to this setup it’s more vibrant but not necessarily as accurate on the colours, this might be due to the contrast level being at 60 compared to mine at 50.


----------



## ckronengold

Liquid$team said:


> It seems strange to me that the 6050 was discounted right away and the 5050 took months for a sale. I have not purchased a projector since 2010.... is this par for the course for Epson?


I thought Crutchfield had $200 off about a week or two after launch. I remember seeing it right after I picked mine up and was pissed. C'est la vie.


----------



## misterg51

Luminated67 said:


> I think the difference for me is that mine was professionally calibrated for my projector in my room with my screen which is why my own settings work better but the Natural setting is definitely good too, HDR is a bit of a mine field, I still believe the ones that were calibrated work better but these ones are very good indeed and if you want a vibrant image this setting will give you that.



I think what I am seeing is color correct settings not too far off from default based on what the reviewer wrote along with the settings. I am using Audioquest Vodka to feed sources into my AV7704 and Chocolate for the long run to the projector. Avatar reminded me of when I would drool over the JVC projector in the high-end room. I picked my HDMI cables based on a blind test using entry level equipment. Had no idea the model which I liked best was until they showed me. The difference I see is in the spectral highlights and color saturation. And an empty wallet. The blacks are blacker etc. Not science, just blind viewing for a few hours. Many think I'm crazy and what I see is not there..... but I saw with my own eyes the difference.



Bulb life means I would have to calibrate every six months, and the free settings took lazy me 10 minutes to put in. YRMV. Peace to all!


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Liquid$team said:
> 
> 
> 
> It seems strange to me that the 6050 was discounted right away and the 5050 took months for a sale. I have not purchased a projector since 2010.... is this par for the course for Epson?
> 
> 
> 
> I thought Crutchfield had $200 off about a week or two after launch. I remember seeing it right after I picked mine up and was pissed. C'est la vie.
Click to expand...

Crutchfield will usually work with you especially since it's really only been a couple months it's worth sending them an email. It cannot hurt to mention that you are a member of AVS forum and have heard many great things about them on AVS forum. I have bought quite a few items from them through the years and recent began tweeting them. Feel free to tweet them and mention my name.


----------



## misterg51

Luminated67 said:


> Yeah you have describe the 4K HDR settings perfectly, when I switch from my calibrated setup to this setup it’s more vibrant but not necessarily as accurate on the colours, this might be due to the contrast level being at 60 compared to mine at 50.



I'm thinking that it may be more screen dependent than I had hoped. Mine is an old Draper gray screen. I have another that is white and 1.1. Guess I'll find out soon enough.


----------



## gene4ht

Liquid$team said:


> The 6050 MSRP is $3999.... and it was discounted hundreds of dollars the day it hit the street so it's not a slow sales issue. I'm guessing because it's a "pro" installers version but that is also just an asumption on my part.


IIRC, the 6000 series was intended for the custom installers/integrators market. Again, speculating, perhaps the margins were not appealling enough for that segment...hence quick pricing adjustments. After all, these folks are probably pushing "native" 4K pieces like Sony's 295 and higher end models with likely better margins. In any case...just thinking out loud. Now back to the regularly scheduled program!


----------



## CanadaMark

gene4ht said:


> IIRC, the 6000 series was intended for the custom installers/integrators market. Again, speculating, perhaps the margins were not appealling enough for that segment...hence quick pricing adjustments. After all, these folks are probably pushing "native" 4K pieces like Sony's 295 and higher end models with likely better margins. In any case...just thinking out loud. Now back to the regularly scheduled program!


Just to add to this, the 6050's are the highest performing models, apparently cherry picked to be able to deliver the slightly higher contrast ratio of 1.2M:1. They also have installer-specific ISF calibration modes and another anamorphic lens setting. With the longer warranty, extra lamp, and mount it's actually a pretty good deal, especially since I doubt anyone is paying MSRP for these things. When I got my old 6500UB back in the day, I remember getting a significant discount (cost +10%) - I hope it's still the same today haha. It would be nice if you could get the regular 5050 in black though.


----------



## Liquid$team

CanadaMark said:


> Just to add to this, the 6050's are the highest performing models, apparently cherry picked to be able to deliver the slightly higher contrast ratio of 1.2M:1. They also have installer-specific ISF calibration modes and another anamorphic lens setting. With the longer warranty, extra lamp, and mount it's actually a pretty good deal, especially since I doubt anyone is paying MSRP for these things. When I got my old 6500UB back in the day, I remember getting a significant discount (cost +10%) - I hope it's still the same today haha. It would be nice if you could get the regular 5050 in black though.


Im quite happy with the deal I got on my 6050 from Dream Media... and yes I am happy it's black since it's visible. People go so far as to paint their rooms black yet have no problem hanging a giant white projector. I myself had a white pj for 9 years...but no longer


----------



## gene4ht

Liquid$team said:


> Im quite happy with the deal I got on my 6050 from Dream Media... and yes I am happy it's black since it's visible. People go so far as to paint their rooms black yet have no problem hanging a giant white projector. I myself had a white pj for 9 years...but no longer


Glad you're happy with the value and color. I would personally prefer a black case but it's never been a distraction for me. My attention is always focused on the image quality on the screen. Funny, my white case looks almost black in the dark!


----------



## dr bill

Ok, so lots of handshake issues between my brand new 5050 and my 4K Sony UBP-X800 blu-ray player. (I'm so excited to see how 4K blu-ray is going to look!!!)

Screen is mostly black, sometimes flashing for a few seconds, then black. I wait for the issue to resolve, but after 10 minutes of this, not resolving. Not accepting/recognizing the signal from the player. Must be the HDMI cable.

I've tried a couple of cheaper HDMI cables, described as "high speed" and 4K compliant, but it looks like it's time to put my money where my mouth is. The run of the cable is 35ft.

*So, what HDMI works for 4K, 35ft, Epson 5050 to Sony UBP-X800???* 

Thanks!


----------



## dr bill

These doesn't work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SI1JG7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008U7SLEW/ref=psdc_3236443011_t3_B07NPGZ4L8?th=1

What do you think about this one???

https://www.amazon.com/DELONG-Suita...way&sprefix=4k+hdmi+fiber,aps,151&sr=8-3&th=1


----------



## --Sclaws

dr bill said:


> Ok, so lots of handshake issues between my brand new 5050 and my 4K Sony UBP-X800 blu-ray player. (I'm so excited to see how 4K blu-ray is going to look!!!)
> 
> Screen is mostly black, sometimes flashing for a few seconds, then black. I wait for the issue to resolve, but after 10 minutes of this, not resolving. Not accepting/recognizing the signal from the player. Must be the HDMI cable.
> 
> I've tried a couple of cheaper HDMI cables, described as "high speed" and 4K compliant, but it looks like it's time to put my money where my mouth is. The run of the cable is 35ft.
> 
> *So, what HDMI works for 4K, 35ft, Epson 5050 to Sony UBP-X800???* /forum/images/smilies/confused.gif
> 
> Thanks!


FWIW I have this one (50') and it has worked great...they have a 32' version. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M73NY9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6Yz9CbWQQFY8H


----------



## dr bill

--sclaws said:


> fwiw i have this one (50') and it has worked great...they have a 32' version. https://www.amazon.com/dp/b072m73ny9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6yz9cbwqqfy8h


*SOLD!*

Thanks!


----------



## Liquid$team

gene4ht said:


> Glad you're happy with the value and color. I would personally prefer a black case but it's never been a distraction for me. My attention is always focused on the image quality on the screen. Funny, my white case looks almost black in the dark!


 Oh no I'm sure it's fine. My white ceiling doesn't bother me. Just pointing out the strangeness of Epson having giant white projectors


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> These doesn't work:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SI1JG7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008U7SLEW/ref=psdc_3236443011_t3_B07NPGZ4L8?th=1
> 
> What do you think about this one???
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/DELONG-Suita...way&sprefix=4k+hdmi+fiber,aps,151&sr=8-3&th=1


This is the one I use and it throws a great image . No handshake issues and very full dynamic soundfield. 


https://www.amazon.com/Fiber-FURUI-...46&s=gateway&sprefix=furui+&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1


----------



## drober30

dr bill said:


> These doesn't work:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SI1JG7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008U7SLEW/ref=psdc_3236443011_t3_B07NPGZ4L8?th=1
> 
> What do you think about this one???
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/DELONG-Suita...way&sprefix=4k+hdmi+fiber,aps,151&sr=8-3&th=1


The DELONG has been mentioned several times in earlier posts, after going back and forth for days, I just ordered the DELONG. One of the reviewers said it worked with their Denon AVR-X1500H and I use Denon receivers so that tipped the scale.


----------



## drober30

gene4ht said:


> Generally, retailers are bound by manufacturers agreements to only advertise MSRP. All retailers offer discounts to varying degrees...some more than others...but this pricing is only provided by directly calling a given retailer.


I thought it might have been advertised and I missed it...



Liquid$team said:


> Call or email a dealer. Personally I went through https://dreamediaav.com/ because they have free shipping and a youtube channel so very easy to contact with any issues.
> 
> Dream Media did an entire comparison video between the 5050 and 6050 with "That home theater guy"
> 
> Here is Dream Media video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-OpwDCagDc
> Here is ThatHomeTheaterGuy's video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wagojkX52hA&t=2s
> 
> They are the same video but each guy shot it with their own camera on a slightly different angle so its cool to check both out.


I know I watched the one 6050 review, I will check out the other one. It will be even harder to leave it in the box until I'm done painting!


----------



## sahil0909

Upswright1 said:


> Just jumping in here, I have the 4010 and just upgraded to 5050. Picture quality and HDR are definitely worth the Money. 5050 looks amazing with hdr. You will not regret getting it. IMHO


Thank you so much for your kind input, it's great to hear from someone who had personal experience with both!! it's definitely a confusing choice for me, but for now i've just put this decision on hold i think. Thank you again for your help!


----------



## scottyroo

I just switched over and used Eric Pfoutz's from ProjectorReviews.com settings for his "Brightest 4K" Calibration and of the settings I've seen floating around here it is the best I've seen/used on the 5050UB. The only adjustment I made to his settings was changing the HDR slider from 8 to 4 since I have a larger 160" screen. 

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/


----------



## ckronengold

misterg51 said:


> I'm thinking that it may be more screen dependent than I had hoped. Mine is an old Draper gray screen. I have another that is white and 1.1. Guess I'll find out soon enough.


For anyone keeping score at home, I'm using a SilverTicket grey screen that claims to be 1.0 gain.


----------



## ckronengold

scottyroo said:


> I just switched over and used Eric Pfoutz's from ProjectorReviews.com settings for his "Brightest 4K" Calibration and of the settings I've seen floating around here it is the best I've seen/used on the 5050UB. The only adjustment I made to his settings was changing the HDR slider from 8 to 4 since I have a larger 160" screen.
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/


Any changes to your overall opinion of the 5050 now that you're using "the best you've seen/used"?


----------



## --Sclaws

scottyroo said:


> I just switched over and used Eric Pfoutz's from ProjectorReviews.com settings for his "Brightest 4K" Calibration and of the settings I've seen floating around here it is the best I've seen/used on the 5050UB. The only adjustment I made to his settings was changing the HDR slider from 8 to 4 since I have a larger 160" screen.
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/


Same here. I wasn't expecting them to fit my environment so well but they're working great (made my own calibration attempts look ugly in comparison). Only really had to adjust contrast/brightness a bit to reduce some white clipping and blacks were a bit too low on my screen.


----------



## Hawkmarket

drober30 said:


> I thought it might have been advertised and I missed it...
> 
> 
> 
> I know I watched the one 6050 review, I will check out the other one. It will be even harder to leave it in the box until I'm done painting!



I'm genuinely interested if the 6050 is better on anything other than paper or the written word. I don't think the contrast improvement will be perceptible 99% of the time but I am interested in the sharpness claims. I don't know how many A/B comparisons we're going to get however so who knows.


----------



## gene4ht

Hawkmarket said:


> I'm genuinely interested if the 6050 is better on anything other than paper or the written word. I don't think the contrast improvement will be perceptible 99% of the time but I am interested in the sharpness claims. I don't know how many A/B comparisons we're going to get however so who knows.


The 5040 throws a bright and sharp image...the 5050 improves upon this...and the 6050 is said to be "hand picked" from the 5050's. All this is of course subjective and anecdotal. No amount of a/b testing from others will necessarily tell you what you want to know....only your own eyes will. Bottom line, these are excellent projectors at their price points. You just need to audition any of these to see for yourself. One of the best ways to do this is to order one from a retailer with a favorable/liberal return policy.


----------



## Hawkmarket

gene4ht said:


> The 5040 throws a bright and sharp image...the 5050 improves upon this...and the 6050 is said to be "hand picked" from the 5050's. All this is of course subjective and anecdotal. No amount of a/b testing from others will necessarily tell you what you want to know....only your own eyes will. Bottom line, these are excellent projectors at their price points. You just need to audition any of these to see for yourself. One of the best ways to do this is to order one from a retailer with a favorable/liberal return policy.



I'm just interested in the comparison of the 5050 to the 6050 and I agree with your comment about subjective and anecdotal. Always in the eye of the beholder...and the salesman.


----------



## scottyroo

ckronengold said:


> Any changes to your overall opinion of the 5050 now that you're using "the best you've seen/used"?


The 5050UB is a tinkerer's dream! There are so many settings to fine tune the image. I think these are settings that I'm finally ok with leaving on 100% of the time regardless of the content. I was always switching back and forth between modes depending on the content. So much so that I create sequences on my harmony remote to mimic the 'memory, down, down, enter' etc buttons... I digress.

I really like the 5050UB. My expectations going into the 5050 were sky high so at the end of the day, the performance didn't blow me away but the HDR is definitely improved compared to last gen. If the Benq 5550 had better input lag, I would probably still have that up as my primary driver. There is a lot to like about that unit. But I spend about 50% of my lamp time gaming and the 60ms input lag on the HT5550 was a bit much for how much I game. Its serviceable for the casual gamer. Other than the input lag, the BenQ is amazing.

I ultimately stuck with the 5050UB because of the 26ms input lag. I also enjoy the extra brightness headroom and good contrast/black floor. I still often wish for a sharper picture and the fuss-free out of box color/image from the BenQ but I guess you can't have it all. I just hope we can get an 8.3M pixel projector that can do sub 30ms input lag soon. Right now the best we have is the BenQTK800M at 42ms. The Viewsonic LS-7004k on paper can but I'll believe it when I see it.


----------



## Liquid$team

Hawkmarket said:


> I'm genuinely interested if the 6050 is better on anything other than paper or the written word. I don't think the contrast improvement will be perceptible 99% of the time but I am interested in the sharpness claims. I don't know how many A/B comparisons we're going to get however so who knows.


The good thing is after you do make a decision you won't be looking at an A/B comparison. All you will have is the projector you chose so any tiny differences won't matter anymore.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> gene4ht said:
> 
> 
> 
> The 5040 throws a bright and sharp image...the 5050 improves upon this...and the 6050 is said to be "hand picked" from the 5050's. All this is of course subjective and anecdotal. No amount of a/b testing from others will necessarily tell you what you want to know....only your own eyes will. Bottom line, these are excellent projectors at their price points. You just need to audition any of these to see for yourself. One of the best ways to do this is to order one from a retailer with a favorable/liberal return policy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just interested in the comparison of the 5050 to the 6050 and I agree with your comment about subjective and anecdotal. Always in the eye of the beholder...and the salesman.
Click to expand...

I had a 5050 in my theater for about a month and I have now had the 6050 for about a month. Previous that I had two Epson 5040 s for the last 18 months both died due to power supply issues. I do feel that the image on the 6050 is a little sharper and has better contrast than the 5050 which provides I feel a little better Shadow details and slightly better spectral highlights. Epson really took care of me I did not pay for an upgrade to either of the two most recent projectors to grace my home theater. So I don't feel like I am trying to justify any money cuz I didn't spend any LOL. Even my wife noticed a huge difference between the 5040 and the 5050 and she said with the 6050 there are fine details in actors faces and set pieces that were not present with the 5050. I agree with that assessment. I am really Blown Away by the picture I get from the 6050 I have used Alaric settings so far and will probably try the ones from above as well. I will probably have this professionally calibrated as I did with my 5040 by Jeff Meier of Accucal AV.


----------



## groggrog

Loving the 5050UB but having some HDMI handshake issues. Since I've seen others with similar, I'm wondering if anyone has an inside scoop on if Epson is working on another firmware update that may address it. Currently it's 1.01 and I keep hoping for a 1.02. Anybody know?


----------



## skylarlove1999

groggrog said:


> Loving the 5050UB but having some HDMI handshake issues. Since I've seen others with similar, I'm wondering if anyone has an inside scoop on if Epson is working on another firmware update that may address it. Currently it's 1.01 and I keep hoping for a 1.02. Anybody know?


Handshake issues are usually related to unfortunately your HDMI cable. I mean it can definitely be some settings in your receiver as well and I even had a handshake issue because of some settings in my Roku player but most of the time it is usually your cable. Because there are so many different combinations of receivers media players UHD players other items I don't think Epson would ever be able to address a handshake issue with a firmware update. There are so many handshakes going on in your chain between your receiver and the projector it might help to try to connect each one to the projector directly using the same cable you're using and see if you can rule any of your Hardware out as the reason for the handshake issue or you can just order a fiber optic HDMI cable and be done with it LOL.


----------



## groggrog

skylarlove1999 said:


> Handshake issues are usually related to unfortunately your HDMI cable. I mean it can definitely be some settings in your receiver as well and I even had a handshake issue because of some settings in my Roku player but most of the time it is usually your cable. Because there are so many different combinations of receivers media players UHD players other items I don't think Epson would ever be able to address a handshake issue with a firmware update. There are so many handshakes going on in your chain between your receiver and the projector it might help to try to connect each one to the projector directly using the same cable you're using and see if you can rule any of your Hardware out as the reason for the handshake issue or you can just order a fiber optic HDMI cable and be done with it LOL.



Actually I'm using a fiber optic HDMI adapter: http://www.inneos.com/real4k-adapters-with-commercial-fiber/. The manufacturer has investigated and determined that a firmware update is needed from Epson in order to get it working. There is a newer model that will apparently work but I haven't been successful getting a swap from my vendor yet, so hoping the firmware update comes soon so I can avoid having to buy the newer model.


----------



## skylarlove1999

groggrog said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Handshake issues are usually related to unfortunately your HDMI cable. I mean it can definitely be some settings in your receiver as well and I even had a handshake issue because of some settings in my Roku player but most of the time it is usually your cable. Because there are so many different combinations of receivers media players UHD players other items I don't think Epson would ever be able to address a handshake issue with a firmware update. There are so many handshakes going on in your chain between your receiver and the projector it might help to try to connect each one to the projector directly using the same cable you're using and see if you can rule any of your Hardware out as the reason for the handshake issue or you can just order a fiber optic HDMI cable and be done with it LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I'm using a fiber optic HDMI adapter: http://www.inneos.com/real4k-adapters-with-commercial-fiber/. The manufacturer has investigated and determined that a firmware update is needed from Epson in order to get it working. There is a newer model that will apparently work but I haven't been successful getting a swap from my vendor yet, so hoping the firmware update comes soon so I can avoid having to buy the newer model.
Click to expand...

Introducing another component in your chain such as a fiber optic HDMI adapter usually only leads to more handshake issues not less despite what the marketing folks for the HDMI adapters will tell you. Of course they are going to say it is a problem with Epson. I assume it is not feasible to replace your cable due to where it is currently installed. I would reach out to your vendor again to get the one they claim will work ASAP. Although to be honest I don't have the same confidence it will resolve your handshake issues. I would not expect Epson to address this with a firmware update. Firmware update for a handshake issue would likely only involve a large brand such as Denon when a handshake issue had been identified across a whole product line. Just my two cents.


----------



## misterg51

skylarlove1999 said:


> Introducing another component in your chain such as a fiber optic HDMI adapter usually only leads to more handshake issues not less despite what the marketing folks for the HDMI adapters will tell you. Of course they are going to say it is a problem with Epson. I assume it is not feasible to replace your cable due to where it is currently installed. I would reach out to your vendor again to get the one they claim will work ASAP. Although to be honest I don't have the same confidence it will resolve your handshake issues. I would not expect Epson to address this with a firmware update. Firmware update for a handshake issue would likely only involve a large brand such as Denon when a handshake issue had been identified across a whole product line. Just my two cents.



There are many direct cables that are under $100 that work just fine connecting an AVR to the Epson. I have an Audioquest Chocolate 8 meter copper that is flawless. Your vendor is playing the blame-game IMO (previous poster not Skylar). On my 5040 I had a Linker in the loop until I'd had enough frustration. I'll give Skylar 2 dollars for his two cents of advice. Simple is better, and way cheaper. My two cents is ditch the adapter and move on....


----------



## misterg51

Anyone know what the 1.01 firmware does? Mine came with 1.00 so I'm guessing it is one of the first off the assembly line. Maybe I got a 6050 (delayed 6 months) in disguise, lol. Thanks in advance!


----------



## xCUBBYx

My 5050ub arrived today, and so far I'm very pleased. This is an upgrade to my Panasonic AR100U. I originally purchased the Optima UHD60 as the upgrade, and went through 3 of them, all with their very own defects. Also found out both my wife and I are sensitive to rainbows. So, a grand more and the 5050 was the pick.

One thing I'm not understanding is the 4k enhancement. The selection in the menu is greyed out no matter what I put through it. I'm currently using a Xbox One X for the majority of everything. I'm using a high end fiber HDMI cable (HDMI Fiber Cable RUIPRO 4K60HZ HDR 20 feet), and going directly from the Xbox to the projector. Those of you who know the Xbox system, all of the green checkmarks are there in the 4k details menu (minus Dolby). This cable was purchased after I figured out none of my other HDMI would pass 4k HDR with the Optima, and worked perfectly.

Is there a combination of things I need to set within the projector before the 4k enhancement is available?

4k Enhancement, Noise Reduction, MPEG Noise Reduction, and Frame Interpolation are greyed out, and out the box it is set at Image Preset Mode 3.

I apologize if this has been discussed. I did a Google search and nothing really came up. Thanks!


----------



## groggrog

skylarlove1999 said:


> Introducing another component in your chain such as a fiber optic HDMI adapter usually only leads to more handshake issues not less despite what the marketing folks for the HDMI adapters will tell you. Of course they are going to say it is a problem with Epson. I assume it is not feasible to replace your cable due to where it is currently installed. I would reach out to your vendor again to get the one they claim will work ASAP. Although to be honest I don't have the same confidence it will resolve your handshake issues. I would not expect Epson to address this with a firmware update. Firmware update for a handshake issue would likely only involve a large brand such as Denon when a handshake issue had been identified across a whole product line. Just my two cents.


I agree, and yes my hesitation is because the optical cable for that specific device is already run through the ceiling and is the one supported by Best Buy Magnolia, who did my install. I installed with a 4050, which worked fine, and when I upgraded to 5050 the optical adapter no longer works with it. So my options are to have a different optical cable run through the ceiling or pay them to swap out the existing device for the newer version that supposedly works with the 5050. Right now I'm just running a 24 foot HDMI cable under the ceiling. Seems to work fine but really an eyesore and I have to keep making sure I don't clothesline myself with it.


----------



## luismanrara

Liquid$team said:


> Call or email a dealer. Personally I went through https://dreamediaav.com/ because they have free shipping and a youtube channel so very easy to contact with any issues.
> 
> Dream Media did an entire comparison video between the 5050 and 6050 with "That home theater guy"
> 
> Here is Dream Media video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-OpwDCagDc
> Here is ThatHomeTheaterGuy's video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wagojkX52hA&t=2s
> 
> They are the same video but each guy shot it with their own camera on a slightly different angle so its cool to check both out.


I would not decide based on this video, the 5050 was clearly out of focus.


----------



## Liquid$team

luismanrara said:


> I would not decide based on this video, the 5050 was clearly out of focus.


fair enough..... how would you decide between these 2 without seeing them in person?


----------



## xCUBBYx

xCUBBYx said:


> My 5050ub arrived today, and so far I'm very pleased. This is an upgrade to my Panasonic AR100U. I originally purchased the Optima UHD60 as the upgrade, and went through 3 of them, all with their very own defects. Also found out both my wife and I are sensitive to rainbows. So, a grand more and the 5050 was the pick.
> 
> One thing I'm not understanding is the 4k enhancement. The selection in the menu is greyed out no matter what I put through it. I'm currently using a Xbox One X for the majority of everything. I'm using a high end fiber HDMI cable (HDMI Fiber Cable RUIPRO 4K60HZ HDR 20 feet), and going directly from the Xbox to the projector. Those of you who know the Xbox system, all of the green checkmarks are there in the 4k details menu (minus Dolby). This cable was purchased after I figured out none of my other HDMI would pass 4k HDR with the Optima, and worked perfectly.
> 
> Is there a combination of things I need to set within the projector before the 4k enhancement is available?
> 
> 4k Enhancement, Noise Reduction, MPEG Noise Reduction, and Frame Interpolation are greyed out, and out the box it is set at Image Preset Mode 3.
> 
> I apologize if this has been discussed. I did a Google search and nothing really came up. Thanks!


I think I might have answered my own question...looked through the 5040 thread...

If you are sending the projector 4k content, the 4k enhancement selection is greyed out. If you send 1080 or less, the the 4k enhancement can be selected to upscale the image. In other words, the Xbox is doing the upscaling so the projector does not need to. Correct?


----------



## xCUBBYx

xCUBBYx said:


> I think I might have answered my own question...looked through the 5040 thread...
> 
> If you are sending the projector 4k content, the 4k enhancement selection is greyed out. If you send 1080 or less, the the 4k enhancement can be selected to upscale the image. In other words, the Xbox is doing the upscaling so the projector does not need to. Correct?


Never mind. I set the xbox to output 1080. 4k Enhancement, Noise Reduction, MPEG Noise Reduction, and Frame Interpolation are all still greyed out.

What am I doing wrong?


----------



## oztheatre

skylarlove1999 said:


> I had a 5050 in my theater for about a month and I have now had the 6050 for about a month. Previous that I had two Epson 5040 s for the last 18 months both died due to power supply issues. I do feel that the image on the 6050 is a little sharper and has better contrast than the 5050 which provides I feel a little better Shadow details and slightly better spectral highlights. Epson really took care of me I did not pay for an upgrade to either of the two most recent projectors to grace my home theater. So I don't feel like I am trying to justify any money cuz I didn't spend any LOL. Even my wife noticed a huge difference between the 5040 and the 5050 and she said with the 6050 there are fine details in actors faces and set pieces that were not present with the 5050. I agree with that assessment. I am really Blown Away by the picture I get from the 6050 I have used Alaric settings so far and will probably try the ones from above as well. I will probably have this professionally calibrated as I did with my 5040 by Jeff Meier of Accucal AV.


Glad to hear you and yours can see the difference between the 2 models. I haven't seen the 5050 only have the 6050 and it's quite a step up from the previous 5040 model (TW9300 in oz)

So the white model in the US is the 5050? and that's wireless? (TW9400W in oz)
And the black model is the 6050 with the better lens? not wireless? (TW9400 in oz)

What I'm getting out of this projector puts a smile on my face every time I fire it up. And this is coming from a JVC owner who's had every model since the first one!

The HDR handling, the black levels, the ease of use, the brightness and the optics are sublime for a PJ under 10K. The remote and it's layout near perfect too. Optics only bested by the benq LK models, but they're not cinema projectors and cost 400% more. 

This whole design by Epson just works. When everyone else was concentrating on the amount of pixels - one of the least important aspects, especially when those 4k images are shooting thru a sub 4k quality lens array (you no longer have a 4k projector if you don't have 4k visible pixels on screen, blurring and turning them to mush isn't an option, a 1080p projector with a good lens will always look better than a 4k projector with a bad lens imho) - Epson thinks ahead of the game by greatly improving what is already a tried and tested design. They must be laughing up their sleeves right about now.

Here's some GOT 1080p material on a 130 169 screen taken with crappy old phone camera. oh and not calibrated.


----------



## robl2

xCUBBYx said:


> Never mind. I set the xbox to output 1080. 4k Enhancement, Noise Reduction, MPEG Noise Reduction, and Frame Interpolation are all still greyed out.
> 
> What am I doing wrong?


In that case your receiver might be doing the upscaling if you have one of those in the path.

You are correct that all those options are only available when feeding the projector a signal below 4K (ie, 1080p). It does not support FI in 4K and 4K enhancement is always enabled with a 4K source. For lower resolution signals you can decide if you want it to upscale or not.


----------



## xCUBBYx

robl2 said:


> In that case your receiver might be doing the upscaling if you have one of those in the path.
> 
> You are correct that all those options are only available when feeding the projector a signal below 4K (ie, 1080p). It does not support FI in 4K and 4K enhancement is always enabled with a 4K source. For lower resolution signals you can decide if you want it to upscale or not.


Thanks for the response! I am going straight from the xbox to the projector. Nothing in the middle to muck things up. I do not currently have an AVR that can pass 4k, so I'm going HDMI to the projector, and optical to the receiver. So, it's still a mystery as to why I do not get the option when setting the xbox to output in 1080.

Also, why are the noise reduction selections greyed out. Is this also not available when passing 4k?


----------



## luismanrara

Liquid$team said:


> fair enough..... how would you decide between these 2 without seeing them in person?


Well, the video could have been of great help if both projectors were at their best performance level, but with 1 of them being out of focus, the point of the comparison is lost and therefore useless to those of us who can't compare them in person.


----------



## Alaric

xCUBBYx said:


> Thanks for the response! I am going straight from the xbox to the projector. Nothing in the middle to muck things up. I do not currently have an AVR that can pass 4k, so I'm going HDMI to the projector, and optical to the receiver. So, it's still a mystery as to why I do not get the option when setting the xbox to output in 1080.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, why are the noise reduction selections greyed out. Is this also not available when passing 4k?


Do info, projector info and that will tell you what the projector is seeing as a signal. If it's a 1080p resolution then FI will be available, though if you have fw 1.0 then you can FI or 4k on the pj not both, 1.01 allows both!



Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## Liquid$team

luismanrara said:


> Well, the video could have been of great help if both projectors were at their best performance level, but with 1 of them being out of focus, the point of the comparison is lost and therefore useless to those of us who can't compare them in person.


 I'm not saying that it isn't blurry or out of focus and I'm not saying that it is out of focus but one of those guys in that video is a professional installer and the other guy makes home theater specific you tube videos so my belief is that they made sure it was in focus.

I dont have an Opportunity to demo the 6050 in person. So despite how good YouTube videos may or may not be or how reliable AVS forum posters are with their reviews I had to make a decision based on that information. I'm sure there will be more comparison videos out in the future if you're willing to wait. At the end of the day the only way to know for sure is to have the projector in your Room with your screen in your lighting conditions and determine if it's satisfactory or not.


----------



## luismanrara

Liquid$team said:


> I'm not saying that it isn't blurry or out of focus and I'm not saying that it is out of focus but one of those guys in that video is a professional installer and the other guy makes home theater specific you tube videos so my belief is that they made sure it was in focus.
> 
> I don't have an Opportunity to demo the 6050 in person. So despite how good YouTube videos may or may not be or how reliable AVS forum posters are with their reviews I had to make a decision based on that information. I'm sure there will be more comparison videos out in the future if you're willing to wait. At the end of the day the only way to know for sure is to have the projector in your Room with your screen in your lighting conditions and determine if it's satisfactory or not.


First, I think you should take the time to read some of the comments from many viewers on youtube about the comparison before you comment any further.

Second, any decision that you made based on a video where one of the projectors is not properly set up is a gamble, but me my guest, your money, not mine.


----------



## misterg51

Alaric said:


> Do info, projector info and that will tell you what the projector is seeing as a signal. If it's a 1080p resolution then FI will be available, though if you have fw 1.0 then you can FI or 4k on the pj not both, 1.01 allows both!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk



Thank you for the firmware changes in 1.01. Answered my previous post.


----------



## dr bill

Given my handshake issues described earlier, I ordered three different HDMI cables from Amazon, all being delivered tomorrow:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NLDLL7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LD4FP5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J4Q3J4R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Nice to be able to try out and return the ones that don't work, or keep the one that is working and is least expensive. :wink:


----------



## Hawkmarket

I'm looking to get the 6050 but want to wait just a bit before upgrading my older Denon receiver. Is there a way to split the signal from a 4K device where the video goes directly to the projector and the audio is sent to my Denon 1912? I'll be using either an Xbox One X or the latest gen Apple TV to send the picture to the projector.


----------



## Liquid$team

luismanrara said:


> First, I think you should take the time to read some of the comments from many viewers on youtube about the comparison before you comment any further.
> 
> Second, any decision that you made based on a video where one of the projectors is not properly set up is a gamble, but me my guest, your money, not mine.


I've read the comments. I spoke directly to the guys that made the video. They assured me that both projectors were as clear and focused as they could get them. You think they are hacks and don't know what their doing? ok then thats your opinion. You can always feel free to put no weight on the video and ignore it. "That Home Theater dude" Purchased one of the projectors. Don't you think he would want the comparison to be set up correctly?

It obviously doesn't carry through the camera and computer for some people. 

AGAIN.... the only way to know for sure is to have them in your own theater. I'm sure you would agree with that.


----------



## gene4ht

Liquid$team said:


> I've read the comments. I spoke directly to the guys that made the video. They assured me that both projectors were as clear and focused as they could get them. "That Home Theater dude" Purchased one of the projectors. Don't you think he would want the comparison to be set up correctly?
> 
> It obviously doesn't carry through the camera and computer for some people.
> 
> *AGAIN.... the only way to know for sure is to have them in your own theater.* I'm sure you would agree with that.


+1


----------



## SadTVNoob

You fan clearly see at 3:30 in their comparison video though, that the 5050 on the left is blurry/out of focus, they even admit to it in the comments.


----------



## Luminated67

misterg51 said:


> Anyone know what the 1.01 firmware does? Mine came with 1.00 so I'm guessing it is one of the first off the assembly line. Maybe I got a 6050 (delayed 6 months) in disguise, lol. Thanks in advance!


On 1080P source material it allows you to turn on 4K enhancement (e-shift) and still use the FI function, with the 1.00 firmware you can only use one or the other but not both.


----------



## JonfromCB

Strange but I wouldn't freak about an amateur video production. I've seen the 5050 side and side with all the Sony's and a couple of others including a +7K LG laser prototype and nothing about the Epson was blurry, out of focus or stood out in a negative way. I don't know these guys or their affiliations but I do know that videos with intentionally subtle and seemingly innocent things that are not not quite right are increasing in every sector including mass marketing...because without addressing the obvious, they strongly influence people to believe what they see and hear, not what they read, and question what they already know.....just ask the Russians, they are masters at it. hehe, they also divide people and make them argue about what they see...just like the above posts. If you don't consider it, you ain't thinkin'.

What I find strange is why Epson made and markets the 5050 and the 6050 near simultaneously? It might no be the best analogy, but what if a major AVR maker offered two near identical models, one in silver, one in black. The black one has 10 more watts per channel, comes with complimentary wires and cables, has a one year longer warranty, is harder to get and costs 50% more than the silver one. Maybe not a perfect comparison, but I think most can relate to it. I know which one I would buy, and I'm guessing I know which one the manufacturer wants me to buy. Auto makers do such things and call the higher volume, "bread and butter" model a "loss leader". Any other thoughts as to why Epson did this?


----------



## dr bill

dr bill said:


> Given my handshake issues described earlier, I ordered three different HDMI cables from Amazon, all being delivered tomorrow:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NLDLL7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LD4FP5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J4Q3J4R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> Nice to be able to try out and return the ones that don't work, or keep the one that is working and is least expensive. :wink:



*The Delong cable works!!!*

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NLDLL7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Story: I saw that all three cables were sitting at the local Post Office, waiting to go onto the truck for delivery. Being the insane person I am, I went over there to intercept the cables, so as not to wait a few hours to get them delivered. Only the Delong was easily locatable, so I took that one home and tried it out. And it friggin' works! No handshake issues.

I believe this was the cheapest of the three, so the other two are going back.

Now I get to see 4K blu-ray and streaming in all their glory. Holy cow - I am sooo impressed by this projector.

Now, if I can only get the wife to admit that she sees a difference compared to the old Sony. "Looks like a regular VCR tape to me..."


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> dr bill said:
> 
> 
> 
> Given my handshake issues described earlier, I ordered three different HDMI cables from Amazon, all being delivered tomorrow:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NLDLL7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LD4FP5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J4Q3J4R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> Nice to be able to try out and return the ones that don't work, or keep the one that is working and is least expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The Delong cable works!!!*
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NLDLL7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> Story: I saw that all three cables were sitting at the local Post Office, waiting to go onto the truck for delivery. Being the insane person I am, I went over there to intercept the cables, so as not to wait a few hours to get them delivered. Only the Delong was easily locatable, so I took that one home and tried it out. And it friggin' works! No handshake issues.
> 
> I believe this was the cheapest of the three, so the other two are going back.
> 
> Now I get to see 4K blu-ray and streaming in all their glory. Holy cow - I am sooo impressed by this projector.
> 
> Now, if I can only get the wife to admit that she sees a difference compared to the old Sony. "Looks like a regular VCR tape to me..."
Click to expand...

I'm fairly certain that everyone on this forum has gone to the post office or FedEx or UPS and intercepted either Hardware or software that was supposed to be delivered later in the day because we just couldn't wait. LOL. So all of us are a bit off when it comes to audio-video and home theater. I would try the other 2 cables to see if you get a better picture or better audio. I did test out several from Amazon and wound up with the Furui . I thought it gave an image with less noise and a more dynamic more enveloping soundfield. Could just be me. LOL. Happy to hear you resolved your handshake issues and you are thrilled with your picture.


----------



## misterg51

skylarlove1999 said:


> I'm fairly certain that everyone on this forum has gone to the post office or FedEx or UPS and intercepted either Hardware or software that was supposed to be delivered later in the day because we just couldn't wait. LOL. So all of us are a bit off when it comes to audio-video and home theater. I would try the other 2 cables to see if you get a better picture or better audio. I did test out several from Amazon and wound up with the Furui . I thought it gave an image with less noise and a more dynamic more enveloping soundfield. Could just be me. LOL. Happy to hear you resolved your handshake issues and you are thrilled with your picture.



I might be confused here, but a long HDMI run to the projector from your processor/AVR, will have no impact on audio/sound. If you are using said cables between your sources and processor/AVR, I stand corrected. But, the conversion to optic will degrade the audio when compared to direct copper/silver HDMI. Just my observation over the years.


----------



## skylarlove1999

misterg51 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm fairly certain that everyone on this forum has gone to the post office or FedEx or UPS and intercepted either Hardware or software that was supposed to be delivered later in the day because we just couldn't wait. LOL. So all of us are a bit off when it comes to audio-video and home theater. I would try the other 2 cables to see if you get a better picture or better audio. I did test out several from Amazon and wound up with the Furui . I thought it gave an image with less noise and a more dynamic more enveloping soundfield. Could just be me. LOL. Happy to hear you resolved your handshake issues and you are thrilled with your picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might be confused here, but a long HDMI run to the projector from your processor/AVR, will have no impact on audio/sound. If you are using said cables between your sources and processor/AVR, I stand corrected. But, the conversion to optic will degrade the audio when compared to direct copper/silver HDMI. Just my observation over the years.
Click to expand...

I appreciate your observations and experience. I was relating my experience with fiber optic HDMI cables going between my projector and AVR at a distance of 50 ft. As always YMMV.


----------



## dr bill

skylarlove1999 said:


> I'm fairly certain that everyone on this forum has gone to the post office or FedEx or UPS and intercepted either Hardware or software that was supposed to be delivered later in the day because we just couldn't wait. LOL. So all of us are a bit off when it comes to audio-video and home theater. I would try the other 2 cables to see if you get a better picture or better audio. I did test out several from Amazon and wound up with the Furui . I thought it gave an image with less noise and a more dynamic more enveloping soundfield. Could just be me. LOL. Happy to hear you resolved your handshake issues and you are thrilled with your picture.



I just got the other two cables delivered. One is the Furui you recommend.

You really think one can see a difference in picture quality via different HDMI cables?!? I'm willing to try, but seems far-fetched to me...


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm fairly certain that everyone on this forum has gone to the post office or FedEx or UPS and intercepted either Hardware or software that was supposed to be delivered later in the day because we just couldn't wait. LOL. So all of us are a bit off when it comes to audio-video and home theater. I would try the other 2 cables to see if you get a better picture or better audio. I did test out several from Amazon and wound up with the Furui . I thought it gave an image with less noise and a more dynamic more enveloping soundfield. Could just be me. LOL. Happy to hear you resolved your handshake issues and you are thrilled with your picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just got the other two cables delivered. One is the Furui you recommend.
> 
> You really think one can see a difference in picture quality via different HDMI cables?!? I'm willing to try, but seems far-fetched to me...
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing until I tried it LOL.YMMV. Up to you.


----------



## misterg51

skylarlove1999 said:


> I appreciate your observations and experience. I was relating my experience with fiber optic HDMI cables going between my projector and AVR at a distance of 50 ft. As always YMMV.



Thanks Skylar, but there is no audio on that cable. That is why I was confused by the improved audio comment. Peace be with you.


----------



## dr bill

skylarlove1999 said:


> I thought the same thing until I tried it LOL.YMMV. Up to you.


The Delong = $70.

The Dtech = $90.

The Furui = $100.

Is the Furui worth the extra $$$? $30 gets me a couple of new 4K movies...


----------



## skylarlove1999

misterg51 said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate your observations and experience. I was relating my experience with fiber optic HDMI cables going between my projector and AVR at a distance of 50 ft. As always YMMV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Skylar, but there is no audio on that cable. That is why I was confused by the improved audio comment. Peace be with you.
Click to expand...

You are 100% correct there is no audio going from the AVR to the projector on a fiber optic HDMI cable. My comments were not clear I do apologize.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I thought the same thing until I tried it LOL.YMMV. Up to you.
> 
> 
> 
> The Delong = $70.
> 
> The Dtech = $90.
> 
> The Furui = $100.
> 
> Is the Furui worth the extra $$$? $30 gets me a couple of new 4K movies...
Click to expand...

View for yourself. Or not. Maybe you see no difference. Maybe you do. I also have a power conditioner in my set up that I can say reduced video noise and made my audio sound cleaner. Many people don't believe a power conditioner will affect your audio and video quality. I believe my eyes and ears. Same with the cable.


----------



## misterg51

skylarlove1999 said:


> You are 100% correct there is no audio going from the AVR to the projector on a fiber optic HDMI cable. My comments were not clear I do apologize.



No need to apologize, or stop effusing about a projector that you love. We whom own them are right there with you


----------



## soundwave_rider

Does anyone use a DIY spandex screen? I just bought a new house with a spare room that I am going to convert into a dedicated theater and want a AT screen but don't want to spend a ton on a screen right now. Was hoping the high lumen output that a spandex screen would still be possible. Have not contacted any companies that sell just the screen material yet but that is an option. 

Thinking about a 140" 2.35:1 screen with a throw around 17'


----------



## skylarlove1999

soundwave_rider said:


> Does anyone use a DIY spandex screen? I just bought a new house with a spare room that I am going to convert into a dedicated theater and want a AT screen but don't want to spend a ton on a screen right now. Was hoping the high lumen output that a spandex screen would still be possible. Have not contacted any companies that sell just the screen material yet but that is an option.
> 
> Thinking about a 140" 2.35:1 screen with a throw around 17'


Here are some threads on spandex screens. Happy researching.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-...dex-screen-review.html#/topics/2957582?page=2

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-...-i-expect-spandex-screen.html#/topics/2945420

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-...ent-spandex-screen-build.html#/topics/2677969


----------



## Gellert1

Which brand and model# is the power conditioner you put your faith in?
I'd like to see if it makes a difference in in my system, too.


----------



## rbk123

dr bill said:


> I just got the other two cables delivered. One is the Furui you recommend.
> 
> You really think one can see a difference in picture quality via different HDMI cables?!? I'm willing to try, but seems far-fetched to me...


It is possible as all the cables are active, so the electronics on each end probably differ and may result in a difference visible to the eye.


----------



## soundwave_rider

skylarlove1999 said:


> Here are some threads on spandex screens. Happy researching.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-...dex-screen-review.html#/topics/2957582?page=2
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-...-i-expect-spandex-screen.html#/topics/2945420
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-...ent-spandex-screen-build.html#/topics/2677969


I have read through most of these but was asking if anyone running a 5050 or 6050 is using a spandex screen and if they are happy with the results. I have never seen one in action and was hoping to hear back from current owners on their opinion of the picture quality.


----------



## skylarlove1999

soundwave_rider said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some threads on spandex screens. Happy researching.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-...dex-screen-review.html#/topics/2957582?page=2
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-...-i-expect-spandex-screen.html#/topics/2945420
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-...ent-spandex-screen-build.html#/topics/2677969
> 
> 
> 
> I have read through most of these but was asking if anyone running a 5050 or 6050 is using a spandex screen and if they are happy with the results. I have never seen one in action and was hoping to hear back from current owners on their opinion of the picture quality.
Click to expand...

I believe in some of those threads there are people who are running spandex screens with the Epson 5040 who are quite pleased with the results. I would have to imagine with the performance level of the 5050 and 6050 being better than the 5040 that you would be able to feel confident in pairing them with a spandex screen. YMMV.


----------



## dr bill

rbk123 said:


> It is possible as all the cables are active, so the electronics on each end probably differ and may result in a difference visible to the eye.


I fished both HDMIs through the ceiling, tried out both, and both were successful in my primary goal - no handshake issues.

In the end, it was easier to leave both in place, one for my 4K blu-ray player, one for my htpc. Nice knowing I am running the newest tech HDMI cables. I spent all this money on a shiny new PJ, might as well spend a little more on a couple of nice HDMI cables. Not a time to get cheap... :wink:


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> Which brand and model# is the power conditioner you put your faith in?
> I'd like to see if it makes a difference in in my system, too.


This is the one I use. Big and bulky so not for everyone. But one of the best bang for my buck upgrades I did in my theater. Occasionally it goes down in price but I haven't seen a price drop for a while. Too many people buying at this price. LOL.

https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Alumi...r+conditioner&qid=1559762231&s=gateway&sr=8-7


----------



## pattemf132

Just got my 5050UB installed last weekend. Upgraded from a Pioneer Elite FJP-1 circa 2009. WOW! what a difference, no surprise. 
I have loaded Alaric's calibration settings and love them for 4K movies and material. For HD sports I feel I need different settings. Close ups look great, but when the entire field or court is shown, the image is almost too bright and not crisp. I have tinkered some, but still not happy with the results. What settings are others watching sports with ?


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> Gellert said:
> 
> 
> 
> Which brand and model# is the power conditioner you put your faith in?
> I'd like to see if it makes a difference in in my system, too.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I use. Big and bulky so not for everyone. But one of the best bang for my buck upgrades I did in my theater. Occasionally it goes down in price but I haven't seen a price drop for a while. Too many people buying at this price. LOL.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Alumi...r+conditioner&qid=1559762231&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Click to expand...

I stand by my post.


----------



## dr bill

skylarlove1999 said:


> Just found it for a much lower price. I have no experiences with this retailer but it 50% less than I have seen anywhere else.
> 
> https://www.prcedo.com/xd8k414r/furman-power-conditioner-pst-8


*Dumb question of the day:*

What does a 'power conditioner' do?


----------



## utkinpol

dr bill said:


> *Dumb question of the day:*
> 
> What does a 'power conditioner' do?


makes you feel good.  other than that - not much. 

but, if you want to feel real good - you would need something like this:
https://www.cdw.com/product/APC-AV-..._kwcid=AL!4223!3!47981653339!!!g!307075860842!

i stopped paying attention to this non-sense long time ago. perfection is unreachable, so, it is just a waste of time.
but, that one above at least has a battery backup, a complete rip-off is the something like this audioquest:

https://www.audioadvice.com/audioqu...LHUyR0aOdQgE18phBJN1u5OnY6OIiM9BoCg4gQAvD_BwE

Low-Z Power Noise-Dissipation Systems. OMG.


----------



## dr bill

$750?!?


----------



## skylarlove1999

utkinpol said:


> dr bill said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Dumb question of the day:*
> 
> What does a 'power conditioner' do?
> 
> 
> 
> makes you feel good. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif other than that - not much.
> 
> but, if you want to feel real good - you would need something like this:
> https://www.cdw.com/product/APC-AV-..._kwcid=AL!4223!3!47981653339!!!g!307075860842!
> 
> i stopped paying attention to this non-sense long time ago. perfection is unreachable, so, it is just a waste of time.
Click to expand...

So obviously there are lots of different opinions on power conditioners and their effectiveness. I personally believe in them. Here is a article to read more.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-6gfxQTJSY5r/learn/the-power-conditioner-challenge.html


----------



## utkinpol

skylarlove1999 said:


> So obviously there are lots of different opinions on power conditioners and their effectiveness. I personally believe in them. Here is a article to read more.
> 
> https://www.crutchfield.com/S-6gfxQTJSY5r/learn/the-power-conditioner-challenge.html


as i had once a $5K turntable - i get it. but, i still do believe into spending money on speakers, class-A amps, but, spending money on $Xk 'conditioners' that have 2-3 $20 electrolytic condensers on the usual 120V line - nope.  
and i also do not believe into evil harmonics sneaking from one amp into another via AC feeding line. it is a total marketing BS. but, of course, to each - his own.


----------



## rbk123

dr bill said:


> I fished both HDMIs through the ceiling, tried out both, and both were successful in my primary goal - no handshake issues.
> 
> In the end, it was easier to leave both in place, one for my 4K blu-ray player, one for my htpc. Nice knowing I am running the newest tech HDMI cables. I spent all this money on a shiny new PJ, might as well spend a little more on a couple of nice HDMI cables. Not a time to get cheap... :wink:


Sounds like you have it covered, excellent. Hopefully your cable fishing isn't too sealed up, since probably 5 years from now you'll need different cables as they continue to change the HDMI standard...


----------



## skylarlove1999

utkinpol said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So obviously there are lots of different opinions on power conditioners and their effectiveness. I personally believe in them. Here is a article to read more.
> 
> https://www.crutchfield.com/S-6gfxQTJSY5r/learn/the-power-conditioner-challenge.html
> 
> 
> 
> as i had once a $5K turntable - i get it. but, i still do believe into spending money on speakers, class-A amps, but, spending money on $Xk 'conditioners' that have 2-3 $20 electrolytic condensers on the usual 120V line - nope. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> and i also do not believe into evil harmonics sneaking from one amp into another via AC feeding line. it is a total marketing BS. but, of course, to each - his own.
Click to expand...

Interesting that you are able to hear a difference between an Audio Technia and a Rega Planar turntable and are willing to pay for that $3-4k price difference but hear no difference with a power conditioner. We all spend where it makes sense to us. Cool that you are that into vinyl.


----------



## pattemf132

dr bill said:


> $750?!?


Or something like this... Perhaps with a bit more objective value - AVS 2000 voltage stabilizer


----------



## dr bill

pattemf132 said:


> Or something like this... Perhaps with a bit more objective value - AVS 2000 voltage stabilizer


At least that one is only $400 used. Does have the cool factor tho...


----------



## misterg51

skylarlove1999 said:


> So obviously there are lots of different opinions on power conditioners and their effectiveness. I personally believe in them. Here is a article to read more.
> 
> https://www.crutchfield.com/S-6gfxQTJSY5r/learn/the-power-conditioner-challenge.html





I blind tested these as well. Lower noise floor and headroom for power amps that are protected. Yes, you can see and hear a difference. Mine is in my signature. Furman for the win......


----------



## misterg51

pattemf132 said:


> Just got my 5050UB installed last weekend. Upgraded from a Pioneer Elite FJP-1 circa 2009. WOW! what a difference, no surprise.
> I have loaded Alaric's calibration settings and love them for 4K movies and material. For HD sports I feel I need different settings. Close ups look great, but when the entire field or court is shown, the image is almost too bright and not crisp. I have tinkered some, but still not happy with the results. What settings are others watching sports with ?





https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/


----------



## dr bill

misterg51 said:


> I blind tested these as well. Lower noise floor and headroom for power amps that are protected. Yes, you can see and hear a difference. Mine is in my signature. Furman for the win......


https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07DKZ772B/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

$1500+ ?!? 

Almost as expensive as the 5050...


----------



## dr bill

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_756IT...8naUgIZyW2VzJLgeX_6NbP6JS3YN9FQxoCn-8QAvD_BwE

$2600 new.


----------



## misterg51

dr bill said:


> https://www.crutchfield.com/p_756IT...8naUgIZyW2VzJLgeX_6NbP6JS3YN9FQxoCn-8QAvD_BwE
> 
> $2600 new.



Add upper level Audioquest NRG power cables too. I spent years trying to get rid of the crud in audio and video. It was way cheaper than my time. Don't buy it if you can't hear/see a difference......


----------



## drober30

dr bill said:


> *The Delong cable works!!!*
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NLDLL7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> Story: I saw that all three cables were sitting at the local Post Office, waiting to go onto the truck for delivery. Being the insane person I am, I went over there to intercept the cables, so as not to wait a few hours to get them delivered. Only the Delong was easily locatable, so I took that one home and tried it out. And it friggin' works! No handshake issues.
> 
> I believe this was the cheapest of the three, so the other two are going back.
> 
> Now I get to see 4K blu-ray and streaming in all their glory. Holy cow - I am sooo impressed by this projector.
> 
> Now, if I can only get the wife to admit that she sees a difference compared to the old Sony. "Looks like a regular VCR tape to me..."


That is great! Mine arrived today but my 6050 will remain boxed up for another two weeks as I struggle to pick a paint color and order my CCM683 Atmos speakers. Good call on ordering all three, I thought you only went with the other one.



dr bill said:


> I fished both HDMIs through the ceiling, tried out both, and both were successful in my primary goal - no handshake issues.
> 
> In the end, it was easier to leave both in place, one for my 4K blu-ray player, one for my htpc. Nice knowing I am running the newest tech HDMI cables. I spent all this money on a shiny new PJ, might as well spend a little more on a couple of nice HDMI cables. Not a time to get cheap... :wink:


Doesn't your blu-ray run through your receiver? Don't get caught up in the excitement and throw money away, you should only need one HDMI cable to your projector?


----------



## dr bill

drober30 said:


> Doesn't your blu-ray run through your receiver? Don't get caught up in the excitement and throw money away, you should only need one HDMI cable to your projector?


I wish it did...

My receiver is pre-4K, so if I try to pass the 4K blu-ray video signal through it, I have handshake issues with the feed to the PJ. I get no picture.

Routing the 4K blu-ray directly to the PJ is the only way I get 4K video.

I can route my htpc through my receiver to the PJ because those movies are only 1080p, not 4K.

Makes sense?


----------



## Liquid$team

I have 2 older Monster brand power conditioners/surge protectors. I am not worried about surges or grid reliability what so ever. They do make convenient power strips... normally thats all i use them for.... but recently after getting a new cable box and monolith 7x i developed a humm in all my speakers. Tried a bunch of stuff including new cable line and seperating a bunch of power cables and speaker wires. In the end the only thing that worked was running the coaxil cable tv line through the monster power conditioner. Im never the guy to use those coaxil portions of power conditioners ever.... but this time it worked.


----------



## Liquid$team

I have 2 older Monster brand power conditioners/surge protectors. I am not worried about surges or grid reliability what so ever. They do make convenient power strips... normally thats all i use them for.... but recently after getting a new cable box and monolith 7x i developed a humm in all my speakers. Tried a bunch of stuff including new cable line and seperating a bunch of power cables and speaker wires. In the end the only thing that worked was running the coaxil cable tv line through the monster power conditioner. Im never the guy to use those coaxil portions of power conditioners ever.... but this time it worked.


----------



## drober30

dr bill said:


> I wish it did...
> 
> My receiver is pre-4K, so if I try to pass the 4K blu-ray video signal through it, I have handshake issues with the feed to the PJ. I get no picture.
> 
> Routing the 4K blu-ray directly to the PJ is the only way I get 4K video.
> 
> I can route my htpc through my receiver to the PJ because those movies are only 1080p, not 4K.
> 
> Makes sense?


Yep, that makes sense but I think I would take the $100 the extra cable cost and put it toward a new receiver. I don't know what receivers you like but you can get crazy good deals on a 2018 Denon that would give you 4k, HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2, Atmos and Audyssey.

However, you might buy real high end receivers so the $100 would not make that big of a difference?


----------



## BIC2

On Amazon, there are 35 user reviews. Every reviewer received the 5050 free. How can it be that Epson is giving away so many $3,000 projectors. While some of the reviews are in-depth and decent, some are just a few paragraphs long and basically just say, "great projector."

https://www.amazon.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB-Projector/product-reviews/B07P7Y3D6G/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews


----------



## jml123987

It's part of their Amazon Vine program. They get things for free and "review" them. I lucked out and found someone selling one. Snagged it for $1800 on Facebook marketplace. Unopened. She clearly just put up a generic review and sold it sealed to make money. Pure profit for them and I got a sweet discount. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

*budget-oriented 4K receiver?*



drober30 said:


> Yep, that makes sense but I think I would take the $100 the extra cable cost and put it toward a new receiver. I don't know what receivers you like but you can get crazy good deals on a 2018 Denon that would give you 4k, HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2, Atmos and Audyssey.
> 
> However, you might buy real high end receivers so the $100 would not make that big of a difference?


You make a very good point.

One of the HDMIs is going back, and now I'm shopping for a new, budget-oriented receiver.

Any recommendations???


----------



## drober30

dr bill said:


> You make a very good point.
> 
> One of the HDMIs is going back, and now I'm shopping for a new, budget-oriented receiver.
> 
> Any recommendations???


Yes, I will send you a PM so we don't hijack the thread into a discussion on receivers. If you want lots of opinions, create a post in the "Receivers, Amps and Processors" forum.


----------



## Luminated67

dr bill said:


> I wish it did...
> 
> My receiver is pre-4K, so if I try to pass the 4K blu-ray video signal through it, I have handshake issues with the feed to the PJ. I get no picture.
> 
> Routing the 4K blu-ray directly to the PJ is the only way I get 4K video.
> 
> I can route my htpc through my receiver to the PJ because those movies are only 1080p, not 4K.
> 
> Makes sense?


What you could do is set your's source units to 1080P because the Epson doesn't an amazing job at upscaling the image and when funds become available then change your AVR.

Not sure what's your dream Home Cinema setup is, whether you want to go Atmos and how many or you just want a traditional 5.1 or 7.1 setup but you'd be better to think this over before jumping as the budget 4K AVR are more restricting for expansion.

Personally I'm running a 7.2 setup and can't foresee myself upgrading to Atmos any time soon.


----------



## dr bill

I have a 7.2 setup, no upgrading to Atmos, etc. down the road. I'm happy with my 7.2.

Looks like people like Denon, and the outgoing *AVRX3400H* hits my sweet spot at $500 (50% discount from MSRP). I can return one of my new HDMI cables and save some money that way as well.


----------



## misterg51

dr bill said:


> I have a 7.2 setup, no upgrading to Atmos, etc. down the road. I'm happy with my 7.2.
> 
> Looks like people like Denon, and the outgoing *AVRX3400H* hits my sweet spot at $500 (50% discount from MSRP). I can return one of my new HDMI cables and save some money that way as well.





Just make sure to set the HDMI on it to extended (pass 4K 60Hz) and run all 8 positions for Audyssey setup (if it has it).


----------



## nefrina

Luminated67 said:


> That explains the High Lamp mode and wanting a brighter setup, 160” is almost like going to the local cinema at home. LOL


i'm running 147" scope setup which is ~155" 16:9 equivalent and the projector is 19' away from a spandex screen with 0.6 gain. forget hdr, i just want more brightness period.


----------



## MGBPUFF

Is this thread still about the Epson 5050UB and 6050UB projectors?


----------



## utkinpol

skylarlove1999 said:


> Interesting that you are able to hear a difference between an Audio Technia and a Rega Planar turntable and are willing to pay for that $3-4k price difference but hear no difference with a power conditioner. We all spend where it makes sense to us. Cool that you are that into vinyl.


i have a much older version of APC one - similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-11-Outle...A8YRJEB804DBY0YBSJ3W&qid=1559843486&s=gateway

and i tried comparing several of them, up to $400 or so mark and kept that old $30 one. with proper filtration done in power feed circuits of your components all that stuff at power cord level is irrelevant. 
any surge protector filters off junk a bit, and it helps, but, what i say - i really think and believe that a $1000 power strip filter and a $30 one work just the same well. and built pretty much the same, as there is not that many ways to construct an LC filter.


----------



## utkinpol

dr bill said:


> I have a 7.2 setup, no upgrading to Atmos, etc. down the road. I'm happy with my 7.2.
> 
> Looks like people like Denon, and the outgoing *AVRX3400H* hits my sweet spot at $500 (50% discount from MSRP). I can return one of my new HDMI cables and save some money that way as well.


you should. i did not believe it much initially, but, atmos makes a huge difference. may be partially of the way how soundtrack is done and encoded, plus, the sound field itself is absolutely different, if you get a sample encoded into usual 5.1 DTS and then compare it with atmos one - it is like night and day. definitely worth it. 

usual issue with atmos is the complexity of ceiling speakers mounts - but, if you use, say, same what i have - an onkyo tx-rz1100 - it works fine with the option where atmos upper speakers are side wall mounted. that is much easier to accommodate comparing to cutting proper speakers into the ceiling. so, there are always options.

speaking of that onkyo - it has a very good pre-amp and dac, but not very good power amp section, so, i use an external power amp with it to pump front 3 speakers. but, cost/features digital wise this onkyo is very good, better than denon or etc. and they keep updating firmware on it to keep it current.


----------



## dr bill

MGBPUFF said:


> Is this thread still about the Epson 5050UB and 6050UB projectors?


In the last couple of weeks, my questions and topics have been about the Epson 50505UB and related topics, such as calibration settings, ceiling mounts, HDMI cables that work (or don't) with this PJ, handshake issues and how to resolve them, and affordable receivers that can handle the 4K video sent to the PJ. 

I hope my questions and topics have contributed to the interest in and knowledge base about this new PJ. I am grateful for all the information I have gleaned from the AVS community. 

My apologies if I have taken the thread off-topic.


----------



## Luminated67

dr bill said:


> I have a 7.2 setup, no upgrading to Atmos, etc. down the road. I'm happy with my 7.2.
> 
> Looks like people like Denon, and the outgoing *AVRX3400H* hits my sweet spot at $500 (50% discount from MSRP). I can return one of my new HDMI cables and save some money that way as well.


It might be worth your while checking out the Sony 1080 too, I changed from the Denon 2400H to this and imo the sound is a definite step up, it’s a more open and spacious sound compared to my Denon.


----------



## misterg51

Luminated67 said:


> It might be worth your while checking out the Sony 1080 too, I changed from the Denon 2400H to this and imo the sound is a definite step up, it’s a more open and spacious sound compared to my Denon.



Since we all want to spend your money, lol, the link below lists inexpensive to your wife will divorce you. There are no off-topic questions, except should I ask it. The projectors aren't mutually exclusive units. They work in concert with the other items in your system. Cheers!


https://www.soundandvision.com/content/top-picks-av-receivers


----------



## skylarlove1999

jml123987 said:


> It's part of their Amazon Vine program. They get things for free and "review" them. I lucked out and found someone selling one. Snagged it for $1800 on Facebook marketplace. Unopened. She clearly just put up a generic review and sold it sealed to make money. Pure profit for them and I got a sweet discount.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Just curious if you received the two year warranty. My assumption would be you did not.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> Is this thread still about the Epson 5050UB and 6050UB projectors?


Good old Puff Dragon scorching the Earth when a friendly reminder that there are other threads better suited for receiver talk would have been just as efficient. Hope @dr_bill didn't get too singed.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> MGBPUFF said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is this thread still about the Epson 5050UB and 6050UB projectors?
> 
> 
> 
> In the last couple of weeks, my questions and topics have been about the Epson 50505UB and related topics, such as calibration settings, ceiling mounts, HDMI cables that work (or don't) with this PJ, handshake issues and how to resolve them, and affordable receivers that can handle the 4K video sent to the PJ.
> 
> I hope my questions and topics have contributed to the interest in and knowledge base about this new PJ. I am grateful for all the information I have gleaned from the AVS community.
> 
> My apologies if I have taken the thread off-topic.
Click to expand...

Don't mind Puffy he is just a Gruffy Dragon.


----------



## DavidK442

MGBPUFF said:


> Is this thread still about the Epson 5050UB and 6050UB projectors?


A valid question and I was wondering the same thing...but I doubt even the Epson Engineers could fill all 57 of these pages with useful information.
Always a hunt for the few pearls of wisdom in these forums, but still generally entertaining.
Given that the 5050UB is a unique combination of Air, Earth, Fire and Water even a thorough discussion of modern alchemy would not be off topic for some.


----------



## jml123987

jml123987 said:


> It's part of their Amazon Vine program. They get things for free and "review" them. I lucked out and found someone selling one. Snagged it for $1800 on Facebook marketplace. Unopened. She clearly just put up a generic review and sold it sealed to make money. Pure profit for them and I got a sweet discount.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


She gave me her original "receipt" etc. But idk what would happen if I need to make a claim honestly. I felt the amount of money I was saving was worth the risk. But to each his own with risk tolerance obviously. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SadTVNoob

Well sadly I think I'm going to have to return mine, possibly exchange it. There's a weird green light in that constantly shines, really visible in dark scenes. Most likely a lens problem.

Crappy picture because it's hard to catch in a dark scene


----------



## zenoran

SadTVNoob said:


> Well sadly I think I'm going to have to return mine, possibly exchange it. There's a weird green light in that constantly shines, really visible in dark scenes. Most likely a lens problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Crappy picture because it's hard to catch in a dark scene




I was just considering returning mine because of what looks like a dead pixel in that general area. I was just searching around on here to see if there are any known issues. This is my first projector so I was really shocked to even see a dead pixel at all. 

Actually, I used this as an excuse to try out the BenQ HT5550 which I just got today but it looks like doodoo compared to the Epson I’ve been glued to for a few weeks. I’m actually amazed how people say they prefer the colors on the BenQ when everything just looks completely washed out compared to the Epson’s deep rich colors. I guess maybe HDR is better on the BenQ but for gaming and regular SDR content it’s just night and day flat and dull after staring at the Epson for nearly 100 hours. I guess I’ll be ordering another one.


----------



## coderguy

zenoran said:


> Actually, I used this as an excuse to try out the BenQ HT5550 which I just got today but it looks like doodoo compared to the Epson I’ve been glued to for a few weeks. I’m actually amazed how people say they prefer the colors on the BenQ when everything just looks completely washed out compared to the Epson’s deep rich colors. I guess maybe HDR is better on the BenQ but for gaming and regular SDR content it’s just night and day flat and dull after staring at the Epson for nearly 100 hours. I guess I’ll be ordering another one.


The SDR colors of almost every 'accurately calibrated' projector looks for the most part the same (tiny nuance differences). At this point, about 70% to 80% of projectors calibrate accurately, excluding business or white-segment models. This is even going back years and years, other than laser projectors or projectors capable of doing a wider gamut. I have seen over 100 different projectors, SDR color is neither a benefit nor a detractor on any of them unless they have a calibration issue. I am not sure what 'washed out colors' actually means but sounds more like the Benq was not bright enough or had a gamma calibration issue. Some JVC's have gamma droop issues and some sat tracking issue, but it doesn't really show up 95% of the time, and the newer models mostly fixed that.

Not trying to downplay your findings, but this just isn't an issue on most modern projectors. I never found any specific projectors to have better color, other than some that have issues calibrating, but 'washed out' is never how it looked, more like a non-fixable tint on skin tones or similar. Never seen too many projectors with washed out color, other than some white segment DLP's or projectors with gamma issues...

Once I had 7 projectors in my room at the same time, the color looked basically identical on all of them after a basic calibration, excluding 2 of them which had a known calibration issue. The color is so close that you couldn't even tell the difference in side-by-side comparison while shooting the same image.

WCG and HDR-P3 is an entirely different story however.


----------



## doublehelixd

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am really Blown Away by the picture I get from the 6050 I have used Alaric settings so far and will probably try the ones from above as well. I will probably have this professionally calibrated as I did with my 5040 by Jeff Meier of Accucal AV.


Did you try Eric’s settings as well? How did you like it? Thanks


----------



## zenoran

coderguy said:


> The SDR colors of almost every 'accurately calibrated' projector looks for the most part the same (tiny nuance differences). At this point, about 70% to 80% of projectors calibrate accurately, excluding business or white-segment models. This is even going back years and years, other than laser projectors or projectors capable of doing a wider gamut. I have seen over 100 different projectors, SDR color is neither a benefit nor a detractor on any of them unless they have a calibration issue. I am not sure what 'washed out colors' actually means but sounds more like the Benq was not bright enough or had a gamma calibration issue. Some JVC's have gamma droop issues and some sat tracking issue, but it doesn't really show up 95% of the time, and the newer models mostly fixed that.
> 
> 
> 
> Not trying to downplay your findings, but this just isn't an issue on most modern projectors. I never found any specific projectors to have better color, other than some that have issues calibrating, but 'washed out' is never how it looked, more like a non-fixable tint on skin tones or similar. Never seen too many projectors with washed out color, other than some white segment DLP's or projectors with gamma issues...
> 
> 
> 
> Once I had 7 projectors in my room at the same time, the color looked basically identical on all of them after a basic calibration, excluding 2 of them which had a known calibration issue. The color is so close that you couldn't even tell the difference in side-by-side comparison while shooting the same image.
> 
> 
> 
> WCG and HDR-P3 is an entirely different story however.




Again, I’m a projector noob so maybe I’m missing something but something was definitely odd about the BenQ. I was under the impression they were all supposed to be color calibrated at the factory for this model. One very strange thing though was something going on with the contrast. I was trying to calibrate using spears and munsil disk and the very first slide where it shows all the gray boxes and you’re supposed to reduce the contrast until you see all the boxes was completely blown out. I couldn’t see ANY of the boxes no matter how low I adjusted the contrast and brightness. I tried all color modes and gamma and everything but no matter what I did the slide was completely white. Very strange. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MGBPUFF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Don't mind Puffy he is just a Gruffy Dragon.


Not only is that an ad hominem attack, but it is discriminatory toward dragons! I'm beginning to think AVS has no policies at all. Nevertheless, the thread seems to be back on track!


----------



## kdh651

Hi jumped from UHD60 since i have struggled whining noise that it seems common from TI DLP chipset.

looking at 5040/50UB for alternative and noticed there's $800 differences b/w model. i have read article about power issue and HDMI speed on 5040 but i would like to ask you guys if it's really worthy going 50 by paying extra $800.

also i have surprised it's huge size and weight and makes me worry about mounting on ceiling. could you please recommend referrable mounting bracket? making shelf is not capable option to me.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Don't mind Puffy he is just a Gruffy Dragon.
> 
> 
> 
> Not only is that an ad hominem attack, but it is discriminatory toward dragons! I'm beginning to think AVS has no policies at all. Nevertheless, the thread seems to be back on track! /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

I am glad the thread is no longer dragging on. 😁


----------



## mystigiandoll

zenoran said:


> Again, I’m a projector noob so maybe I’m missing something but something was definitely odd about the BenQ. I was under the impression they were all supposed to be color calibrated at the factory for this model. One very strange thing though was something going on with the contrast. I was trying to calibrate using spears and munsil disk and the very first slide where it shows all the gray boxes and you’re supposed to reduce the contrast until you see all the boxes was completely blown out. I couldn’t see ANY of the boxes no matter how low I adjusted the contrast and brightness. I tried all color modes and gamma and everything but no matter what I did the slide was completely white. Very strange.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds like you had a video level mismatch in my opinion.


----------



## skylarlove1999

kdh651 said:


> Hi jumped from UHD60 since i have struggled whining noise that it seems common from TI DLP chipset.
> 
> looking at 5040/50UB for alternative and noticed there's $800 differences b/w model. i have read article about power issue and HDMI speed on 5040 but i would like to ask you guys if it's really worthy going 50 by paying extra $800.
> 
> also i have surprised it's huge size and weight and makes me worry about mounting on ceiling. could you please recommend referrable mounting bracket? making shelf is not capable option to me.


This Mount will work with 5040 or the 5050 or the 6050 or the 4050. Usually this Mount is around $300 it contains everything you need to mount to the ceiling there are cheaper alternatives but I wouldn't say there are better ones.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chief-CHF4...716488?hash=item340be2dd08:g:cWoAAOSwE1tca0LS


----------



## skylarlove1999

doublehelixd said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am really Blown Away by the picture I get from the 6050 I have used Alaric settings so far and will probably try the ones from above as well. I will probably have this professionally calibrated as I did with my 5040 by Jeff Meier of Accucal AV.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you try Eric’s settings as well? How did you like it? Thanks
Click to expand...

To which Eric are you referring to I have not tried any other settings as of yet but I was going to try the ones posted from the projector review above a few pages back


----------



## skylarlove1999

jml123987 said:


> jml123987 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's part of their Amazon Vine program. They get things for free and "review" them. I lucked out and found someone selling one. Snagged it for $1800 on Facebook marketplace. Unopened. She clearly just put up a generic review and sold it sealed to make money. Pure profit for them and I got a sweet discount.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> She gave me her original "receipt" etc. But idk what would happen if I need to make a claim honestly. I felt the amount of money I was saving was worth the risk. But to each his own with risk tolerance obviously.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I would hope Epson would honor the warranty but I think you might have to encourage them strongly to do so LOL since you did buy it from a person used even though it was never opened. Epson warranty agreement states specifically that the warranty is not transferable. But I understand you thought it was too good a deal to pass up. I myself would not have done that but that's because I had two failed Epson 5040 s. Epson did a wonderful job of taking care of me which is why I now have an Epson 6050 that replaced my Epson 5040 at no charge to me.


----------



## gene4ht

kdh651 said:


> Hi jumped from UHD60 since i have struggled whining noise that it seems common from TI DLP chipset.
> 
> looking at 5040/50UB for alternative and noticed there's $800 differences b/w model. i have read article about power issue and HDMI speed on 5040 but i would like to ask you guys if it's *really worthy going 50 by paying extra $800.*
> 
> also i have surprised it's* huge size and weight and makes me worry about mounting on ceiling. could you please recommend referrable mounting bracket?* making shelf is not capable option to me.


Read the recent postings in this thread and you will know that the recommendations are the 5050 with the Chief ceiling mount. Any mount is only as good to what you attach it to...just insure it's attached to joists or bridged joists...certainly a substantial ceiling member.


----------



## skylarlove1999

kdh651 said:


> Hi jumped from UHD60 since i have struggled whining noise that it seems common from TI DLP chipset.
> 
> looking at 5040/50UB for alternative and noticed there's $800 differences b/w model. i have read article about power issue and HDMI speed on 5040 but i would like to ask you guys if it's really worthy going 50 by paying extra $800.
> 
> also i have surprised it's huge size and weight and makes me worry about mounting on ceiling. could you please recommend referrable mounting bracket? making shelf is not capable option to me.


I think that mostly everyone in this thread will tell you that the 5050 is worth the extra money I certainly feel that it is. I had an Epson 5040 for 18 months that was calibrated by Jeff Meier of Accu Cal AV. He was able to get an credible image for me but the 5050 it's just sharper and gives a much better image for HDR. More Shadow detail right out of the box and better spectral highlights. Overall the image is brighter and more detailed the contrast is better. I see more details in 4k images. IMHO the 5050 is worth the extra money for sure.


----------



## coderguy

zenoran said:


> Again, I’m a projector noob so maybe I’m missing something but something was definitely odd about the BenQ. I was under the impression they were all supposed to be color calibrated at the factory for this model. One very strange thing though was something going on with the contrast. I was trying to calibrate using spears and munsil disk and the very first slide where it shows all the gray boxes and you’re supposed to reduce the contrast until you see all the boxes was completely blown out. I couldn’t see ANY of the boxes no matter how low I adjusted the contrast and brightness. I tried all color modes and gamma and everything but no matter what I did the slide was completely white. Very strange.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Video level mapping issue or chroma issue possibly (running some projectors through AVR's can mess them up), or some gamma setting in the projector.
Otherwise, sounds like it was a defective unit, I've seen some defective DLP's exhibit that behavior before.

Could even be as simple as a tech had to go into the service menu before shipping the PJ out and he forgot to change something.
However, if it was blowing all levels out like that, that is a self-destructing problem and there is no point in even comparing it until you first fix that issue.

If like a few levels at over ire 200+ are blown out, or below ire 20 are crushed, probably no huge deal, but to have multiple gray to white levels blown out and show only white, that is defective issue that must be fixed before going any farther.


----------



## doublehelixd

skylarlove1999 said:


> To which Eric are you referring to I have not tried any other settings as of yet but I was going to try the ones posted from the projector review above a few pages back


Eric Pfoutz. He’s the one who calibrated for the projector review that was mentioned a few pages back - https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/

Alaric’s hdr settings use the high power mode. How did you find the fan noise with those settings?


----------



## skylarlove1999

doublehelixd said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> To which Eric are you referring to I have not tried any other settings as of yet but I was going to try the ones posted from the projector review above a few pages back
> 
> 
> 
> Eric Pfoutz. He’s the one who calibrated for the projector review that was mentioned a few pages back - https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/
> 
> Alaric’s hdr settings use the high power mode. How did you find the fan noise with those settings?
Click to expand...

I do love alaric's HDR settings but in quiet scenes I do find the high power mode drives the fan noise to the point where it can be distracting. I'm hoping when I get my 6050 calibrated in a few months that I can achieve some great HDR without using high-power mode we shall see. Luckily for me I mostly watch action movies so I usually don't hear the fan noise.


----------



## zenoran

zenoran said:


> I was just considering returning mine because of what looks like a dead pixel in that general area. I was just searching around on here to see if there are any known issues. This is my first projector so I was really shocked to even see a dead pixel at all.



I did some further testing with this and I don’t think it’s a dead pixel since it does display color beyond black. It’s only on black or near black where you can see it. I’m going to attach some pictures I was wondering if anyone could identify what might be causing this on my 5050?


































Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CanadaMark

RE: power conditioners, I think if anything, it matters how good or "clean" the power coming to your home is.

That being said, I have A/B tested a number of power conditioners from $50 to $1000 and and there is literally no difference, in my opinion, to just being plugged into the wall. I think if you can hear a difference from that, either you have some very poor quality power coming into your home, or it's in your head. I also think it's especially important to make sure that all your tests are *completely blind* - perception and placebo can be very powerful (especially if something is more expensive or is "supposed" to be better). Get someone to help you if needed, to make sure you have no idea what you're listening to. My rule of thumb is if you can't pick out the "winner" in a proper blind test with 100% accuracy with a large number of tests, it's either not worth it or a significant difference very clearly doesn't exist. That goes for most things in the home theater world, in my opinion. The point of diminishing return is pretty low, and it's up to each individual to determine how important incremental improvements are worth.

I remember shopping for speakers/amps years ago and the sales person would try and tell us why we needed to spend X dollars more on this and that. He would control the A/B testing and tell us what we "should" be hearing with each change of equipment, etc. I took over and ran the tests, none of the listeners had a clue what equipment was running each time and there was $10K between some of them haha. Sometimes I wouldn't change anything and they would talk about how much better it was, that was my favorite. The point being, before you spend money on something like a power conditioner (or most things in the HT world), make sure that you personally can ace a blind test before spending your hard earned money, if you are able to set up the opportunity. There is A LOT of snake oil in this industry.


----------



## dr bill

Remind me - which component should I use to do the 4K upscaling from 1080p? 
In contrast, which components do I set to send the 1080p signal as is?

1. Denon Receiver
2. Sony Blu-ray player
3. Epson 5050

Thanks!


----------



## CanadaMark

dr bill said:


> Remind me - which component should I use to do the 4K upscaling from 1080p?
> In contrast, which components do I set to send the 1080p signal as is?
> 
> 1. Denon Receiver
> 2. Sony Blu-ray player
> 3. Epson 5050
> 
> Thanks!


The projector (or display device) almost always has better scaling than things like Blu Ray players.

Set your receiver to "pass through" and turn off any scaling in your blu-ray player and you should be all set. When the Epson receives a 1080P signal you can choose how much "4K enhancement" you want.


----------



## Solarium

Does the 5050UB come pre-calibrated like the HT5550? How accurate is the default settings? How difficult is it to calibrate it yourself without any professional instruments?

Thanks


----------



## kdh651

gene4ht said:


> Read the recent postings in this thread and you will know that the recommendations are the 5050 with the Chief ceiling mount. Any mount is only as good to what you attach it to...just insure it's attached to joists or bridged joists...certainly a substantial ceiling member.


Thanks for the kind advice.
looking at chief ceiling mount. since I don't want to cut ceiling drywall, i'm planning 2 holes on studs and 2 on the drywall w/anchor just for balancing. hopefully it would work. any further advice would be more than great!


----------



## Luminated67

dr bill said:


> Remind me - which component should I use to do the 4K upscaling from 1080p?
> In contrast, which components do I set to send the 1080p signal as is?
> 
> 1. Denon Receiver
> 2. Sony Blu-ray player
> 3. Epson 5050
> 
> Thanks!


I’d suggest testing each yourself and see what you come up with, personally I prefer to leave everything off and just let the Epson do the upscaling, the benefit of this is that with the 1.01 software update if you feed the projector with 1080p you can use the 4K e-shift upscaling along with FI motion enhancement .


----------



## Luminated67

Solarium said:


> Does the 5050UB come pre-calibrated like the HT5550? How accurate is the default settings? How difficult is it to calibrate it yourself without any professional instruments?
> 
> Thanks


I don’t think it’s that easy to calibrate without the equipment and knowledge of what you are doing, also no two machine are identical and neither is the screen, projection distance or room which all affect the outcome. As someone who recently paid to get a professional calibration done I can definitely say it was money very well spent, at first you think the image is dull but as you get use to it you quickly realise how much more detail is present in the image and by this I does mean sharpness.


----------



## ike12

*New*

Hi, Just installed my Epson5040 last night, 



Does the unit AUTO enable HDR if the 4K BluRay for instance has it? Whether is be a game or movie do I need to manually enable it or no?
What service do people typically use (hardware and service ) for renting 4K movies both latest movies and kids?


Is updating the FW the first thing I should do? Just plug it into the Ethernet port and run update? 



Thanks


----------



## gene4ht

kdh651 said:


> Thanks for the kind advice.
> looking at chief ceiling mount. since I don't want to cut ceiling drywall, i'm planning 2 holes on studs and 2 on the drywall w/anchor just for balancing. *hopefully it would work*. any further advice would be more than great!


You're welcome...

Yep...that'll work fine. My 5040 is anchored the same way...no issues.

No need to cut into the ceiling. The 5050 is only 25lbs...relatively speaking a light weight compared to the Barco's of yesteryear. Two appropriate size "lag bolts" into the joist/stud and two drywall anchors (comes in various load capacities up to 75lbs each) will be more than adequate. I've used these for many years in different applications with great results...does the job...no failures.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/E-Z-Ancor-...andard-Drywall-Anchor-Screws-Included/1098793

https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Dry...s+for+drywall&qid=1559932989&s=gateway&sr=8-6


----------



## robl2

ike12 said:


> Does the unit AUTO enable HDR if the 4K BluRay for instance has it? Whether is be a game or movie do I need to manually enable it or no?


Yes it does, but it does *NOT* auto apply a memory preset. So if you have different settings for say SDR and HDR you'll have to manually load those from a memory slot you saved them to.


----------



## skylarlove1999

zenoran said:


> zenoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was just considering returning mine because of what looks like a dead pixel in that general area. I was just searching around on here to see if there are any known issues. This is my first projector so I was really shocked to even see a dead pixel
> 
> 
> I did some further testing with this and I don’t think it’s a dead pixel since it does display color beyond black. It’s only on black or near black where you can see it. I’m going to attach some pictures I was wondering if anyone could identify what might be causing this on my 5050?
> 
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> 
> That looks like a dust blob to me you only really notice it when you are not watching anything on screen it's just when you see a black screen correct
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## skylarlove1999

zenoran said:


> zenoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was just considering returning mine because of what looks like a dead pixel in that general area. I was just searching around on here to see if there are any known issues. This is my first projector so I was really shocked to even see a dead pixel at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did some further testing with this and I don’t think it’s a dead pixel since it does display color beyond black. It’s only on black or near black where you can see it. I’m going to attach some pictures I was wondering if anyone could identify what might be causing this on my 5050?
> 
> 
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> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


What you have there appears to be a dust blob believe it or not I would definitely have Epson warranty out to send you a brand new projector. You can read more about it in this theater thread below


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...2727841-epson-dust-blobs.html#/topics/2727841


----------



## zenoran

skylarlove1999 said:


> Ya I was thinking it was a dust blob too but I thoroughly cleaned the lens and it made no difference. Unless it’s a dust particle on the inside? Interestingly, lens shift moves it so I don’t think that would happen if it was dust.
> 
> I called epson and they said it was defective and I should send it back. Trying to decide if I’m going to do that or just return to Amazon and get a new one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

zenoran said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I was thinking it was a dust blob too but I thoroughly cleaned the lens and it made no difference. Unless it’s a dust particle on the inside? Interestingly, lens shift moves it so I don’t think that would happen if it was dust.
> 
> I called epson and they said it was defective and I should send it back. Trying to decide if I’m going to do that or just return to Amazon and get a new one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Dust blobs or what are referred to as dust blobs or actually internally on the LCD panel so not anything to do with the lens outside or really inside. That is why when you shift left to right up or down the dust blob moves because it's actually on the LCD panel. I do not recommend trying to take apart the projector and clean the LCD panel it's under warranty get a new one. When a projector is not under warranty some individuals have been successful in cleaning the LCD panel themselves although I would still recommend sending it to Epson and they actually can clean it but of course they charge you.
Click to expand...


----------



## misterg51

zenoran said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I was thinking it was a dust blob too but I thoroughly cleaned the lens and it made no difference. Unless it’s a dust particle on the inside? Interestingly, lens shift moves it so I don’t think that would happen if it was dust.
> 
> I called epson and they said it was defective and I should send it back. Trying to decide if I’m going to do that or just return to Amazon and get a new one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I returned my FIRST 5040 for the exact same reason, to Amazon. For a brand new one. Did it through customer service returns over the phone was fast.
Click to expand...


----------



## jml123987

skylarlove1999 said:


> I would hope Epson would honor the warranty but I think you might have to encourage them strongly to do so LOL since you did buy it from a person used even though it was never opened. Epson warranty agreement states specifically that the warranty is not transferable. But I understand you thought it was too good a deal to pass up. I myself would not have done that but that's because I had two failed Epson 5040 s. Epson did a wonderful job of taking care of me which is why I now have an Epson 6050 that replaced my Epson 5040 at no charge to me.


Yeah I know I'm playing with fire but couldn't pass up the deal. Like I said to each his own in terms of risk tolerance. I think most people would agree with you. Right now it's working amazing and I'm happy so hoping it stays that way so it never becomes an issue. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SadTVNoob

zenoran said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I was thinking it was a dust blob too but I thoroughly cleaned the lens and it made no difference. Unless it’s a dust particle on the inside? Interestingly, lens shift moves it so I don’t think that would happen if it was dust.
> 
> I called epson and they said it was defective and I should send it back. Trying to decide if I’m going to do that or just return to Amazon and get a new one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Like I posted before, mine was the same situation as yours, just with a green blob instead of a blue. I called Epson today and they're sending me a new unit.
Click to expand...


----------



## ike12

*image adjust?*

Any chance someone knows what setting be it physical movement left or right of the projector or an electronic adjustment I have not yet found will fix this issue of the screen being "not fully square" on top left and right it kind of "narrows" as it goes to the top.. frustrating. Thanks for any help


----------



## kdh651

ike12 said:


> Any chance someone knows what setting be it physical movement left or right of the projector or an electronic adjustment I have not yet found will fix this issue of the screen being "not fully square" on top left and right it kind of "narrows" as it goes to the top.. frustrating. Thanks for any help


it looks your lens looks down. try lifting up little bit. or adjusting by vertical keystone function it you may have.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

ike12 said:


> Any chance someone knows what setting be it physical movement left or right of the projector or an electronic adjustment I have not yet found will fix this issue of the screen being "not fully square" on top left and right it kind of "narrows" as it goes to the top.. frustrating. Thanks for any help




Get on a ladder and twist the projector on the mount a bit it’s most likely angled down ever so slightly . I had an issue like that which was fixed by making it absolutely level and then using lens shift down more and all edges were perfect. You never want to use keystone 

I may not be explaining this correctly 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MidnightWatcher

No keystone. It's evil. Physically adjust the projector.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

MidnightWatcher said:


> No keystone. It's evil. Physically adjust the projector.




That was much easier explained 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JonfromCB

IF the evil keystone adjustment is used, is it recommended that an exorcist be called to calibrate the PJ? Sorry, couldn't resist.


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## MidnightWatcher

They will rid your house of The Keystone.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MidnightWatcher said:


> No keystone. It's evil. Physically adjust the projector.


Totally agree. Keystone correction works in theory. In the real world it does far more harm than good.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Totally agree. Keystone correction works in theory. In the real world it does far more harm than good.


Unknown to me I had the keystone on one click when Gordon came to calibrate mine, he instantly noticed it but I couldn’t until he threw up a test pattern and then it was as clear as a bell because it was doing something weird to the pattern.

Void it like the plague.


----------



## gene4ht

Luminated67 said:


> Unknown to me I had the keystone on one click when Gordon came to calibrate mine, he instantly noticed it but I couldn’t until he threw up a test pattern and then it was as clear as a bell because it was doing something weird to the pattern.
> 
> Void it like the plague.


+1

If you value PQ geometry and precise image quality, the golden rule for PJ’s is avoid using keystone.


----------



## groggrog

Alaric said:


> Sorry to be rude, but for that sort of claim, I would need a photo of the Projectors own Info menu to believe this.
> 
> I've seen too many cases of people swearing blind that their projector is broken and FI doesn't work, only to sheepishly return after doing this check to find out the player or amp was scaling. I would expect the same here, though down....and if not, the image would give an idea of how to repeat it!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


I'm trying to figure out how to get the frame interpolation option to light up. Attached is a pic of the projector info screen. Watching a 1080p show on Apple TV 4k. Based on the info screen would appreciate some hints. Thanks...


----------



## jbnpaul

groggrog said:


> I'm trying to figure out how to get the frame interpolation option to light up. Attached is a pic of the projector info screen. Watching a 1080p show on Apple TV 4k. Based on the info screen would appreciate some hints. Thanks...




As you can see the projector is receiving a 4k signal. Hence no frame interpolation.

Your apple tv is probably upscaling it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

groggrog said:


> I'm trying to figure out how to get the frame interpolation option to light up. Attached is a pic of the projector info screen. Watching a 1080p show on Apple TV 4k. Based on the info screen would appreciate some hints. Thanks...


Clearly upscaling is being done before it enters the projector. I haven’t an Apple 4K unit so don’t know if it upscales and if so does it automatically do it when connected to a 4K capable display as is the case with some Bluray players. If not then the upscaling has to be done by the AVR.


----------



## danimanfx

Hi. I do apologize in advance for my noob questions. I only owned a single pj so far (Optoma uhd300x). I spotted an amazing deal for the Epson EH-TW9400, saving me almost 500. I`d buy it, as it carries a low input lag, and I play 75% of the time. Problem is that the throw ratio calculator is showing me that I could only get 84" from 2.5 m . The length of my room, wall to wall, is a total of 3 m. Are there any lenses (ways) which would help getting a higher image coming out of this pj? At least a 95"... as my old optoma was capable of that within this projection distance. Thank you.


----------



## Kelvin1000

misterg51 said:


> Thank you for the firmware changes in 1.01. Answered my previous post.




I don’t believe that the Epson website has the correct firmware file. I am able to update the projector but it still shows up as this version:










Can anyone please post a pic of what the version looks like after the update? Or perhaps a link to the correct firmware file?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## misterg51

Kelvin1000 said:


> I don’t believe that the Epson website has the correct firmware file. I am able to update the projector but it still shows up as this version:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone please post a pic of what the version looks like after the update? Or perhaps a link to the correct firmware file?
> 
> Thanks in advance!



mine is the same as yours. the first one is the current firmware


----------



## Gellert1

danimanfx said:


> Hi. I do apologize in advance for my noob questions. I only owned a single pj so far (Optoma uhd300x). I spotted an amazing deal for the Epson EH-TW9400, saving me almost 500. I`d buy it, as it carries a low input lag, and I play 75% of the time. Problem is that the throw ratio calculator is showing me that I could only get 84" from 2.5 m /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif. The length of my room, wall to wall, is a total of 3 m. Are there any lenses (ways) which would help getting a higher image coming out of this pj? At least a 95"... as my old optoma was capable of that within this projection distance. Thank you.


1. Move to another room.
2. Buy a different projector with a shorter throw.
3. If there were any lens to increase the size, it would certainly be much more than the $500 savings you speak of. If 4K isn't a necessity, consider an Optoma short throw projector with built in DarbeeVision and super low game lag. Costs $500 and looks great at 100"+.


----------



## ricwhite

zenoran said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I was thinking it was a dust blob too but I thoroughly cleaned the lens and it made no difference. Unless it’s a dust particle on the inside? Interestingly, lens shift moves it so I don’t think that would happen if it was dust.
> 
> I called epson and they said it was defective and I should send it back. Trying to decide if I’m going to do that or just return to Amazon and get a new one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> If you send it back to Amazon, there will be an Amazon Warehouse Epson 5050UB projector for sale as used but described as "new condition open box unit" for sale for $2500 and some unsuspecting buyer will buy your old projector with the dust blob and all. But you never know, the buyer might not care.
Click to expand...


----------



## BillZ

Epson 5050UB $2,699 on Amazon Prime, BestBuy, etc..

https://www.amazon.com/Epson-Home-C...0081410&s=gateway&sprefix=5050,aps,157&sr=8-1

BestBuy

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/epson-...h-dynamic-range-white/6344895.p?skuId=6344895

and probably everywhere else.

LINKS FIXED.... I hope.


----------



## gene4ht

BillZ said:


> Epson 5050UB $2,699 on Amazon Prime, BestBuy, etc..
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Epson-Home-Ci...SIN=B07P7Y3D6G
> 
> BestBuy
> 
> https://www.bestbuy.com/site/searchp...=960&keys=keys
> 
> 
> and probably everywhere else.


Links not working....likely that pricing was in error...wouldn't be surprised to see $2499 around the holidays though!

Edit: Going directly to their sites...works!


----------



## BillZ

gene4ht said:


> Links not working....likely that pricing was in error...wouldn't be surprised to see $2499 around the holidays though!
> 
> Edit: Going directly to their sites...works!



Odd about the links but I will fix both. Thank you.

LINKS FIXED!


----------



## VideoDrone

Viche said:


> Got it, but I thought the projector exhausted air out the front. If it exhausted out the back, the box would cause heating issues.


Box does NOT have a front or rear cover, so open front and open back, airflow is not an issue or restricted in any way, and as I mention when in high lamp mode it quiets the PJ significantly vs a standard ceiling mount.


----------



## DavidK442

danimanfx said:


> Problem is that the throw ratio calculator is showing me that I could only get 84" from 2.5 m . The length of my room, wall to wall, is a total of 3 m. Are there any lenses (ways) which would help getting a higher image coming out of this pj? At least a 95".


As @Gellert wrote, you are pretty much stuck with the throw range provided. I keep hoping for a shorter throw, high contrast projector, but so far no luck.
Do more people need to hit a 120" screen from 25 feet back than those of us with only 10 feet? According to Epson, JVC and Sony the answer is an absolute "yes".


----------



## danimanfx

DavidK442 said:


> As @Gellert wrote, you are pretty much stuck with the throw range provided. I keep hoping for a shorter throw, high contrast projector, but so far no luck.
> Do more people need to hit a 120" screen from 25 feet back than those of us with only 10 feet? According to Epson, JVC and Sony the answer is an absolute "yes".


I will wait for the Viewsonic LS700-4k (advertised as having a low input lag -16ms). That one is more forgiving, and there is a potential of 103"-107" in my room. I`m going to lose the Epson`s nicer image quality though , which is a bummer.


----------



## gene4ht

BillZ said:


> Epson 5050UB $2,699 on Amazon Prime, BestBuy, etc..
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Epson-Home-C...0081410&s=gateway&sprefix=5050,aps,157&sr=8-1
> 
> BestBuy
> 
> https://www.bestbuy.com/site/epson-...h-dynamic-range-white/6344895.p?skuId=6344895
> 
> and probably everywhere else.
> 
> LINKS FIXED.... I hope.


Just received an email from Crutchfield. ..appparently this is the new price (MSRP) and not a sales price.


----------



## zenoran

BillZ said:


> Epson 5050UB $2,699 on Amazon Prime, BestBuy, etc..
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Epson-Home-C...0081410&s=gateway&sprefix=5050,aps,157&sr=8-1
> 
> 
> 
> BestBuy
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.bestbuy.com/site/epson-...h-dynamic-range-white/6344895.p?skuId=6344895
> 
> 
> 
> and probably everywhere else.
> 
> 
> 
> LINKS FIXED.... I hope.




Wow cool. I just ordered my replacement from Crutchfield and they didn’t ship it yet but had the same price. Ended up saving another 100 for my dust blob!

Is this normal for Epson to keep loading their projectors like this? I thought this model was fairly new. Maybe a new one is coming?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

zenoran said:


> Wow cool. I just ordered my replacement from Crutchfield and they didn’t ship it yet but had the same price. Ended up saving another 100 for my dust blob!
> 
> Is this normal for Epson to keep loading their projectors like this? * I thought this model was fairly new. Maybe a new one is coming?*
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The 5050/6050 are Epson's current models (2018 - were introduced in Europe first). The 6050 reportedly was discounted almost immediately after introduction. Why the 5050 is being discounted at this time is pure speculation. In any case, the reasons could be sales performance, competition, possible model replacement (but feels too soon), or product and price positioning due to Epson's forthcoming native 4K PJ. In any case, it's a good bet that some info will come out of CEDIA.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Debating on the 6050 vs. 5050. Things I like but won't pay for up front are the lamp, color (although black is preferable), mount (already have that), and not terribly worried about the extra year of warranty. What I WILL pay for are better optics from the projector and in a recent article I've seen mention that the 6050 is part of a "replacement program." We can debate all day long whether or not the optics will indeed be better and probably never have that completely settled. However, what is the Epson "replacement program" and does that 5050 participate in that as well?


----------



## gene4ht

Hawkmarket said:


> Debating on the 6050 vs. 5050. Things I like but won't pay for up front are the lamp, color (although black is preferable), mount (already have that), and not terribly worried about the extra year of warranty. What I WILL pay for are better optics from the projector and *in a recent article I've seen mention that the 6050 is part of a "replacement program."* We can debate all day long whether or not the optics will indeed be better and probably never have that completely settled. *However, what is the Epson "replacement program"* and does that 5050 participate in that as well?


Epson's warranty program replaces/exchanges defective PJ's utilizing a pool of refurbs. I suspect that their "replacement program" is what the article is referring to. The anecdotal evidence in this thread suggests it's a speedy exchange but tends to be a game of roulette as some have received perfect replacement units while others have had to exchange units multiple times. I'm sure others will chime in with their experience(s).


----------



## jaychatbonneau

ezelkow1 said:


> Any clue which one you are preferring at the moment? (sort of sounds like the ht5550) Im coming from a 5020ub so had my sights set on the 5050 this week but the only thing that has me leary is the half res in comparison to something like the 5550 offering full res, but then Im assuming at the cost of contrast. Grrr choices



The 5050 is far superior to anything Benq puts out. You will be very, very happy with it.


----------



## Viche

zenoran said:


> Wow cool. I just ordered my replacement from Crutchfield and they didn’t ship it yet but had the same price. Ended up saving another 100 for my dust blob!
> 
> Is this normal for Epson to keep loading their projectors like this? I thought this model was fairly new. Maybe a new one is coming?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





gene4ht said:


> The 5050/6050 are Epson's current models (2018 - were introduced in Europe first). The 6050 reportedly was discounted almost immediately after introduction. Why the 5050 is being discounted at this time is pure speculation. In any case, the reasons could be sales performance, competition, possible model replacement (but feels too soon), or product and price positioning due to Epson's forthcoming native 4K PJ. In any case, it's a good bet that some info will come out of CEDIA.


Early adopter tax. If some people are willing to pay $3000 why not take their money. I don't think it's worth $3000 to me, and obviously Epson and the majority of consumers at this point agree. I'm betting the new price becomes standard and we see $2399 by Black Friday. That's a fair price to me.


----------



## gene4ht

Viche said:


> *Early adopter tax. If some people are willing to pay $3000 why not take their money.* I don't think it's worth $3000 to me, and obviously Epson and the majority of consumers at this point agree. I'm betting the new price becomes standard and we see $2399 by Black Friday. That's a fair price to me.


Is that a strategy taught in business colleges?

If one followed the 5040’s price trend, it’ll at least be $2499 entering the holiday season.


----------



## Viche

gene4ht said:


> Is that a strategy taught in business colleges?
> 
> If one followed the 5040’s price trend, it’ll at least be $2499 entering the holiday season.


It's called capitalism for a reason.
How about 2399 for Black Friday, back up to 2699 afterwards, and 2499 for Christmas.


----------



## wk11793

danimanfx said:


> I will wait for the Viewsonic LS700-4k (advertised as having a low input lag -16ms). That one is more forgiving, and there is a potential of 103"-107" in my room. I`m going to lose the Epson`s nicer image quality though , which is a bummer.


I'm in a similar boat as you. Stuck with a throw of only 8.5 feet which limits me to an 80" image on the Epson. I really want to upgrade my W1070 to something with better blacks and contrast but few other projectors can throw a 100" image from the same distance.


----------



## Kelvin1000

misterg51 said:


> mine is the same as yours. the first one is the current firmware




It’s strange because I still can’t do frame interpolation and e-shift simultaneously...


----------



## DRaven72

gene4ht said:


> Epson's warranty program replaces/exchanges defective PJ's utilizing a pool of refurbs. I suspect that their "replacement program" is what the article is referring to. The anecdotal evidence in this thread suggests it's a speedy exchange but tends to be a game of roulette as some have received perfect replacement units while others have had to exchange units multiple times. I'm sure others will chime in with their experience(s).


I went through 2 4000 replacements only to have both replacements worse than the original. Now I am out of warranty. Epson can bite me sending me their used crap when Benq sent me a new replacement. I game on 4K pc, so fast is in the epson/Jvc category. Definitely stepping up to the JVC realm this time around. I am not going to lie. I am very tempted by the 5050 but what I just went through, I'd rather go with the JVC X790.


----------



## zenoran

Does anyone have experience running this projector on a Denon receiver while trying to use Monitor 2 with the projector off? I keep getting HDCP errors and Denon claims it’s a problem with the projector. The only way to get HDCP content on monitor 2 is if I physically unplug the projector or turn it on. 

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

I know we're a bunch of early adopting, hyper critical aficionados here, but does it seem like there's an awful lot of Quality Control issues with this unit? I know its technically "new" but the 9400 has been out for a long time. 

Seems like a lot of dust blobs and other related probs. I'm on my 3rd unit, but at least got the QA team to check out the most recent one before they shipped it out. Got a nice "letter" in the box that said the unit was good to go. Definitely a huge improvement over the lens scratch / blobs I had in my 2nd unit.


----------



## ckronengold

I know we're a bunch of early adopting, hyper critical, detail oriented aficianados, but does there seem to be a high rate of return from people on this board? 

I'm on my 3rd unit, but at least I got a letter saying that the QA team inspected it before it was sent out. 

The 5050 is a "new" model, but the 9400 has been out a while. Anyone else think this is a little bit of a quality control issue?


----------



## CanadaMark

I really hope nobody in Canada is paying anywhere near full price for these things. $2799 USD = $3700 CAD and they are "on sale" for $4600 CAD most places. I would expect some very heavy discounts from retailers if they don't want Canadians simply shopping South of the boarder. There is a extra $1000 in there for seemingly no reason. Virtually all other electronics sold here are priced roughly at the FX conversion compared to the USA sale prices.


----------



## CanadaMark

ckronengold said:


> I know we're a bunch of early adopting, hyper critical aficionados here, but does it seem like there's an awful lot of Quality Control issues with this unit? I know its technically "new" but the 9400 has been out for a long time.
> 
> Seems like a lot of dust blobs and other related probs. I'm on my 3rd unit, but at least got the QA team to check out the most recent one before they shipped it out. Got a nice "letter" in the box that said the unit was good to go. Definitely a huge improvement over the lens scratch / blobs I had in my 2nd unit.


Reading on forums is going to give you a highly disproportionate sample size of unhappy users highlighting their issues. People are also many times more likely to post about issues than to say they have one and it's working great. I realize there aren't many other sources of information on the matter, but considering how many of these PJ's get sold and the incredibly small sample size here, I wouldn't worry about it too much - especially with Epson's legendary customer service. Sounds like you went through a few units though which is certainly unfortunate, but very likely also not the norm. Failure rates in high-end consumer electronics are typically very low, usually low single digit percentages.

More of a personal theory, but what I always ask myself is what is the least reliable mass produced consumer electronic I can think of? A traditional spinner hard drive. The most unreliable hard drives out there have failure rates of around 5% across tens of thousands of units, so I tend to believe that things like projectors have much better overall reliability than that. Again, just a thought.


----------



## rogerkris

zenoran said:


> Does anyone have experience running this projector on a Denon receiver while trying to use Monitor 2 with the projector off? I keep getting HDCP errors and Denon claims it’s a problem with the projector. The only way to get HDCP content on monitor 2 is if I physically unplug the projector or turn it on.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have had similar issues in the past with a Marantz. I replaced the Marantz with a Pioneer (for other reasons) and no longer have the HDCP errors.


----------



## zenoran

CanadaMark said:


> Reading on forums is going to give you a highly disproportionate sample size of unhappy users highlighting their issues. People are also many times more likely to post about issues than to say they have one and it's working great. I realize there aren't many other sources of information on the matter, but considering how many of these PJ's get sold and the incredibly small sample size here, I wouldn't worry about it too much - especially with Epson's legendary customer service.



I would say the large majority wouldn’t even notice the issues but that doesn’t mean they aren’t still there. Having dust blobs in the internals is definitely a manufacturing process problem you would expect someone like Epson to have figured out by now. Either that or it’s a design flaw where dust is able to enter the internals as part of shipping and/or normal usage. From reading here it sounds like Epson realizes their issues across the board and augmented with “excellent customer service” to bridge the gap. Otherwise, no one would buy their products. 

I do agree it’s probably worthwhile not to worry too much about it, knowing u can get a replacement if needed. However, I do think it is important to be aware of the issues so you can properly inspect the device when you get it new so you have an opportunity to get it replaced with a new one vs getting stuck with a refurb further down the line. It’s unfortunate we have to deal with this kind of thing as consumers but enthusiasts are definitely a minority when considering their total business. I would say the majority are just people who hired some company to come setup a media room in their homes and are probably rarely going to use it as a novelty/movie night with the family. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## asolor78

Good Afternoon, 

So Calibration question in regards to 3d Option.. is it best practice to use "SDR" cali that both alaric and or projector review provided and then just plug that into one of the two 3d picture settings? or does anyone have any good options in view. I also have a question in regards to 3d... If im using cinescope Screen and have a 3d movie in 2.35.1, 2.40.1 etc etc.. on bluray player and or ps4 there is an option for screen size.. what size would i use .. I have a 128 inch silver ticket curved 2.35.1 and always wondered what correct sizeing would be.. any help on this matter would be great to hear..


----------



## CanadaMark

zenoran said:


> I would say the large majority wouldn’t even notice the issues but that doesn’t mean they aren’t still there. Having dust blobs in the internals is definitely a manufacturing process problem you would expect someone like Epson to have figured out by now. Either that or it’s a design flaw where dust is able to enter the internals as part of shipping and/or normal usage. From reading here it sounds like Epson realizes their issues across the board and augmented with “excellent customer service” to bridge the gap. Otherwise, no one would buy their products.
> 
> I do agree it’s probably worthwhile not to worry too much about it, knowing u can get a replacement if needed. However, I do think it is important to be aware of the issues so you can properly inspect the device when you get it new so you have an opportunity to get it replaced with a new one vs getting stuck with a refurb further down the line. It’s unfortunate we have to deal with this kind of thing as consumers but enthusiasts are definitely a minority when considering their total business. I would say the majority are just people who hired some company to come setup a media room in their homes and are probably rarely going to use it as a novelty/movie night with the family.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't disagree that there is a possibility some people have minor issues that aren't being noticed, but at the same time that assumption cannot be used to make a determination on the reliability of the product. I also don't think that Epson resolving the issues in a proper manner (via good customer service) is in any way an admission of some sort of widespread issue that they are aware of, but that is just my opinion. There will always be a small number of defective products, and if it's batch-related, it's possible for an individual or small group of people to get multiple defective units, giving the impression of a larger problem when in fact it is isolated. I guess all I am saying is we would need way more information than we have to come to any sort of conclusion beyond pure speculation  I'm hoping to have my 5050 in the next 2-3 months and I have no worries at all about buying one. I am so picky that if it has any issues I'll notice it within the first day lol. Anecdotally, my 6500UB is now 10 years old as well and has no issues. As you mentioned, with Epson willing to simply replace the units, it doesn't seem like a big deal either way outside some minor hassle should an issue arise.


----------



## carmona

The Epson 5050 is presently being discounted everywhere it seems. However, most online sources still list the 6050 at $3999. Would like to purchase the 6050, for example, from our local Best Buy Magnolia. Does anyone know if they are offering discounts below the stated online pricing. Thanks for any information.


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## skylarlove1999

carmona said:


> The Epson 5050 is presently being discounted everywhere it seems. However, most online sources still list the 6050 at $3999. Would like to purchase the 6050, for example, from our local Best Buy Magnolia. Does anyone know if they are offering discounts below the stated online pricing. Thanks for any information.


Best Buy only price matches other major competitors they do not do any type of price negotiation so you might be better off at a dealer


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## Dante Williams

skylarlove1999 said:


> Best Buy only price matches other major competitors they do not do any type of price negotiation so you might be better off at a dealer


I've been away from home for a while, but have recently returned to watch a few shows on my 6050 (Series of unfortunate events & Kimmy Schmit). Recently came across this video 



 which I find asks some great questions about what truly makes a good picture! 

My full review of the 6050 is coming hopefully next week (don't even have the couch yet to watch it on lol)


----------



## rustolemite

I bought my 5050 from Crutchfield on May 3rd and I just contacted them and they are processing a $300 refund to match the price drop. 
Also 100% happy with the projector for me it is nice step up from my 5040, having the 18gb speed has made an improvement on my Xbox gaming as well.
They overall picture and HDR is just better. I was having to use Bright Cinema with my 5040 to get a decent brightness out of HDR but with the 5050, I am using Dynamic instead and very happy.


----------



## misterg51

Kelvin1000 said:


> It’s strange because I still can’t do frame interpolation and e-shift simultaneously...



That means your source is up-scaling.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> I know we're a bunch of early adopting, hyper critical, detail oriented aficianados, but does there seem to be a high rate of return from people on this board?
> 
> I'm on my 3rd unit, but at least I got a letter saying that the QA team inspected it before it was sent out.
> 
> The 5050 is a "new" model, but the 9400 has been out a while. Anyone else think this is a little bit of a quality control issue?


Epson customer service is first class. I had a couple of 5040's that failed due to power supply issues. Epson replaced my last 5040 with a 5050. My 5050 had a one-time issue powering on. Contacted Epson and they provided me with a 6050UB . I have been a customer for over twenty years because of that level of service and commitment from Epson. My grandfather always used to say take care of your customers or someone else will. Epson lives that old school motto. I agree that negative user experiences are magnified for any product on a forum that caters to those enthusiastic first adopters. My 6050 has been close to flawless for over a month at this point.


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## shartm

To me arrived 9400 (6050). Summary record. 
What has changed compared to 9300:
1. HDR is most important. Just a song. Now you do not need conversion into SDR, moreover, tonemapping the EPSON for my taste better than what madvr outputs. To configure tonemapping is now possible under any sequence with only one controller, which is invoked by button on the remote. About sallow skin and dark picture it is now possible to forget as about a bad dream. The picture in HDR is simply stunning. Yesterday even looked "Aquaman" ). The stupidity of the film, of course, rolls over, but there's just UHD reference. Also, in HDR, you can now stay in the same color mode and lamp power as watching SDR (I have this "Digital cinema" and ECO) without sacrificing the black level for the sake of overall brightness. 
2. The algorithm works 4K shift - the test with letters (1/2/4K) shows that the smallest font has become more legible than in 9300, just the text in the browser or on the desktop clearer, with the letters as if drawn with a brush - a kind of approach, but in the movie works fine.
3. The quality of optics has increased, which can be seen from the almost perfect uniformity of focus over the entire area of the screen and the absence of problems with the geometry (in 9300 one corner was always a little overwhelmed, and the upper/lower edge of the screen (depending on the orientation of the projector) is more "soap" than the opposite).
4. The projector became noticeably quieter in all modes - both the cooling system and the operation of the auto-iris.
5. Increased "sensitivity" of the IR port, no matter where I point the remote - the reaction is immediate.
6. Native contrast (at least "Malevich" when auto-iris is disabled) has not changed by eye, but ANSI has clearly grown - it became immediately obvious already when you turn on the projector, just in the picture on the desktop, perhaps also due to the micro-contrast of better definition. In General, the contrast impression similar to the good old Pioneer plasma 5080. No modern LCD is not able to give a picture of this quality, better - only OLED with a bunch of its problems, preserved in the current generation of matrices. 
7. Changed the algorithm of the auto-iris - it has become more aggressive, but it is a plus and a minus. On the one hand on the "Malevich" it closes to completely black and quite smoothly, not in steps, as it was in the "high speed" at 9300, on the other mode "normal" has become virtually indistinguishable from the "high speed" - in both cases, the "pumping effect" on appearing and disappearing on a black background titles became obvious, 9300 in the "normal" mode on the credits it was not, but until the end of the diaphragm was not closed. However, in addition to the credits, the effect of "pumping" in the films does not appear in any way, the auto-iris works smoothly and imperceptibly, so I left it on.
8. There was a "video equalizer" that allows you to very accurately adjust the gray scale.
9. Finally made HDMI 18 gbps.
That's actually all. Draw your own conclusions. As for me, the company has released a worthy successor 6040/9300, improving it in almost all respects and maintaining a reasonable (former) price.


----------



## Blu-Boy in BKK

oztheatre said:


> Glad to hear you and yours can see the difference between the 2 models. I haven't seen the 5050 only have the 6050 and it's quite a step up from the previous 5040 model (TW9300 in oz)
> 
> So the white model in the US is the 5050? and that's wireless? (TW9400W in oz)
> And the black model is the 6050 with the better lens? not wireless? (TW9400 in oz)
> 
> What I'm getting out of this projector puts a smile on my face every time I fire it up. And this is coming from a JVC owner who's had every model since the first one!
> 
> The HDR handling, the black levels, the ease of use, the brightness and the optics are sublime for a PJ under 10K. The remote and it's layout near perfect too. Optics only bested by the benq LK models, but they're not cinema projectors and cost 400% more.
> 
> This whole design by Epson just works. When everyone else was concentrating on the amount of pixels - one of the least important aspects, especially when those 4k images are shooting thru a sub 4k quality lens array (you no longer have a 4k projector if you don't have 4k visible pixels on screen, blurring and turning them to mush isn't an option, a 1080p projector with a good lens will always look better than a 4k projector with a bad lens imho) - Epson thinks ahead of the game by greatly improving what is already a tried and tested design. They must be laughing up their sleeves right about now.
> 
> Here's some GOT 1080p material on a 130 169 screen taken with crappy old phone camera. oh and not calibrated.


5050 is the EH-TW8400
5050UB is the EH-TW8400W
6050 is the EH-TW9400
6050UB? is the EH-TW9400W


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## soundwave_rider

For those with fully light controlled rooms what is everybody using for screens? I am trying to plan out my room to hopefully start constructing my false wall within a couple weeks. Looking for input from those who have an AT screen and what gain your screen is and how far back your front row is, I am only planning on one row.


----------



## tomtoo

soundwave_rider said:


> For those with fully light controlled rooms what is everybody using for screens? I am trying to plan out my room to hopefully start constructing my false wall within a couple weeks. Looking for input from those who have an AT screen and what gain your screen is and how far back your front row is, I am only planning on one row.


It would be great for a bunch of you with this projector to ring in on screens you are using with this Epson with pluses minuses and suggestions for size and gain, for light controlled space particularly.


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## gene4ht

soundwave_rider said:


> For those with fully light controlled rooms what is everybody using for screens? I am trying to plan out my room to hopefully start constructing my false wall within a couple weeks. Looking for input from those who have an AT screen and what gain your screen is and how far back your front row is, I am only planning on one row.





tomtoo said:


> It would be great for a bunch of you with this projector to ring in on screens you are using with this Epson with pluses minuses and suggestions for size and gain, for light controlled space particularly.


It’s not that simple to recommend a screen as there is no “one size fits all” answer/solution/choice. Everyone’s environment, seating distance, screen size, screen material, and tastes, etc are all different. What works for others may not work for you. At this point, the most beneficial endeavor is to review the information in the screen threads to gain insight on the what and why of what others have done to understand how they might match your screen goals and objectives.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/


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## Luminated67

tomtoo said:


> It would be great for a bunch of you with this projector to ring in on screens you are using with this Epson with pluses minuses and suggestions for size and gain, for light controlled space particularly.


I’m currently using a QualGear 100” white fixed frame screen with a 1.1gain, throw distance is 3.08m (10’10”). It’s a completely light controlled room with black velour on walls and ceiling and though my carpet is grey I have a 8ft x 6ft black rug in front of the screen.


----------



## soundwave_rider

gene4ht said:


> It’s not that simple to recommend a screen as there is no “one size fits all” answer/solution/choice. Everyone’s environment, seating distance, screen size, screen material, and tastes, etc are all different. What works for others may not work for you. At this point, the most beneficial endeavor is to review the information in the screen threads to gain insight on the what and why of what others have done to understand how they might match your screen goals and objectives.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/


I am not looking for the "one screen fits all" answer. Screens have not really been discussed and I think it can be very helpful for somebody who wants to get this projector but can't demo one. But if somebody ended up with a very similar layout to myself I would take the info with a grain of salt but could atleast use it, knowing my own taste, and maybe save myself time and money making the right choice first. More info to help make a decision is always better... that's why this forum is so important


----------



## dr bill

rustolemite said:


> I bought my 5050 from Crutchfield on May 3rd and I just contacted them and they are processing a $300 refund to match the price drop.


I bought mine on Amazon May 29, 2019. Price is now $100 cheaper. Just contacted Amazon - they apparently do not do any post-purchase price adjustments. No $100 refund. Darn. 

Awesome projector, however!


----------



## marjen

I am thinking of’ getting a 5050. It seems vertical placement is an issue. According to the calculator on projector central it looks like it needs to align to the middle of the screen vertically. Is this true? Seems like it would be in the way and just sitting in a seat would present issues where you might block the image. How high are people mounting this? Was thinking of putting on shelf in back of room.


----------



## skylarlove1999

marjen said:


> I am thinking of’ getting a 5050. It seems vertical placement is an issue. According to the calculator on projector central it looks like it needs to align to the middle of the screen vertically. Is this true? Seems like it would be in the way and just sitting in a seat would present issues where you might block the image. How high are people mounting this? Was thinking of putting on shelf in back of room.


You can definitely mount it high on a shelf or on the ceiling. This is my 6050.


----------



## marjen

> You can definitely mount it high on a shelf or on the ceiling. This is my 6050


Are you using lens shift? Maybe the calculator is wrong.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> You can definitely mount it high on a shelf or on the ceiling. This is my 6050.




What screen is that? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dyazdani

soundwave_rider said:


> For those with fully light controlled rooms what is everybody using for screens? I am trying to plan out my room to hopefully start constructing my false wall within a couple weeks. Looking for input from those who have an AT screen and what gain your screen is and how far back your front row is, I am only planning on one row.


I have a smaller room, roughly 12x16 - I just got a 6050, the throw is about 12 ft and we sit around 11 ft from the screen. I have a DaLite 103” scope screen with the HD Progressive Perf screen at 1.1 gain. The image looks good though I do find I can see the perfs, especially if the scene is light in color. I have not spent any time calibrating, just using the digital cinema mode. My room is in the middle of the basement and there are no windows so it is very dark.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can definitely mount it high on a shelf or on the ceiling. This is my 6050.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What screen is that?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


16x9 123 inch diagonal Seymour Glacier white 1.3 Gain Perfectly Smooth screen with magnetic masking panels. 

http://www.seymourav.com/screens.asp


----------



## skylarlove1999

marjen said:


> You can definitely mount it high on a shelf or on the ceiling. This is my 6050
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using lens shift? Maybe the calculator is wrong.
Click to expand...

Yes I use vertical lens shift.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> 16x9 123 inch diagonal Seymour Glacier white 1.3 Gain Perfectly Smooth screen with magnetic masking panels.
> 
> http://www.seymourav.com/screens.asp




Did you make the panels or buy them. Looks great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## misterg51

skylarlove1999 said:


> You can definitely mount it high on a shelf or on the ceiling. This is my 6050.


Just got my chief 4500. I don't need the pipe but I'm wondering if the piece it screws into on the mount with the key can be rotated if the screw is loosened. Mine appears to be shifted a bit.....


----------



## misterg51

misterg51 said:


> Just got my chief 4500. I don't need the pipe but I'm wondering if the piece it screws into on the mount with the key can be rotated if the screw is loosened. Mine appears to be shifted a bit.....



Answered my own ? lol. Now to go to the hardware store for the lag bolts not included. Thanks though!


----------



## Dreathlock

If the Epsons would do [email protected] i would buy one immediately.
Since i am also a gamer the low input lag is very nice, but i dont like native 24p content without FI. It´s too much judder for my taste.

Right now my only other option with low input lag, [email protected] and sub 3k€ would be a (used) JVC X5900/X7900.

Should i wait for new Epson projectors? Do you think the next projectors will have [email protected]? Do you expect new ones this year?


----------



## Luminated67

Dreathlock said:


> If the Epsons would do [email protected] i would buy one immediately.
> Since i am also a gamer the low input lag is very nice, but i dont like native 24p content without FI. It´s too much judder for my taste.
> 
> Right now my only other option with low input lag, [email protected] and sub 3k€ would be a (used) JVC X5900/X7900.
> 
> Should i wait for new Epson projectors? Do you think the next projectors will have [email protected]? Do you expect new ones this year?


Can you not pick up new 5900/7900s for close to the price of the 6050?

I'am not a gamer so don't know what affect not having the FI on 4K gaming can have but on movies I actually don't have a problem with it.


----------



## Dreathlock

Luminated67 said:


> Can you not pick up new 5900/7900s for close to the price of the 6050?
> 
> I'am not a gamer so don't know what affect not having the FI on 4K gaming can have but on movies I actually don't have a problem with it.


I wouldnt use the FI for gaming, only for 24p content.

Its really hard to get new units of the 5900/7900 for a good price here in germany. Its sold out everywhere or the price is 4k+€ for the 7900. 
The TW9400 is 2800€ here.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 16x9 123 inch diagonal Seymour Glacier white 1.3 Gain Perfectly Smooth screen with magnetic masking panels.
> 
> http://www.seymourav.com/screens.asp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you make the panels or buy them. Looks great
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thank you. I bought them from Seymour at the same time I bought the screen. Displays an amazing image. The panels definitely improve percieved contrast. I always hated the black bars.


----------



## noob00224

Dreathlock said:


> I wouldnt use the FI for gaming, only for 24p content.
> 
> Its really hard to get new units of the 5900/7900 for a good price here in germany. Its sold out everywhere or the price is 4k+€ for the 7900.
> The TW9400 is 2800€ here.


Wasn't there an update that allowed FI to work with 4K inputs?


----------



## amdar

My Room size is 10x12 and seating distance is 9ft from screen. Thinking of getting 5050UB after reading all the positive reviews. Can i use full wide zoom to setup 5050UB in this room size. My screen size will be 100 inch.


----------



## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> You can definitely mount it high on a shelf or on the ceiling. This is my 6050.


I have a very similar room in my basement. Do you find that that white bulkhead reflects light, and how do you deal with the noise coming from that HVAC vent and what I am assuming are the supply or return conduits within the bulkhead?


----------



## DavidK442

amdar said:


> My Room size is 10x12 and seating distance is 9ft from screen. Thinking of getting 5050UB after reading all the positive reviews. Can i use full wide zoom to setup 5050UB in this room size. My screen size will be 100 inch.


If you are viewing along the long distance then should be OK for 100". The calculator says the lens needs to be 10' back, which leaves 2' for the projector body.

Here is the link the Projector Central calculator in case you want to learn how to fish.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


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## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can definitely mount it high on a shelf or on the ceiling. This is my 6050.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a very similar room in my basement. Do you find that that white bulkhead reflects light, and how do you deal with the noise coming from that HVAC vent and what I am assuming are the supply or return conduits within the bulkhead?
Click to expand...

I have triple black velvet on the acoustic ceiling tiles all the way back to the bulkhead. The grid itself is also covered in black flocking self-adhering tape. Sides walls are also triple black velvet back to the main listening position. The rest of the room is covered in dark blue matte paint. The white bulkhead does not reflect back onto the screen as it is starts at 11 ft back from the screen. I actually feel it provides almost like a low level back lighting effect and increases perceived contrast. HVAC is noticeable only during really quiet scenes.


----------



## marjen

So to mount the 5050 higher up, say around 7+ feet high, the only way to do this is with vertical lens shift? Doesn't that compromise the image?


----------



## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have triple black velvet on the acoustic ceiling tiles all the way back to the bulkhead. The grid itself is also covered in black flocking self-adhering tape. Sides walls are also triple black velvet back to the main listening position. The rest of the room is covered in dark blue matte paint. The white bulkhead does not reflect back onto the screen as it is starts at 11 ft back from the screen. I actually feel it provides almost like a low level back lighting effect and increases perceived contrast. HVAC is noticeable only during really quiet scenes.



Thanks. Not to go too far off topic, but how did you attach the velvet to the drywall sidewalls?
Not sure I understand how the white bulkhead acts as a backlight if it's nowhere near the screen....


----------



## skylarlove1999

marjen said:


> So to mount the 5050 higher up, say around 7+ feet high, the only way to do this is with vertical lens shift? Doesn't that compromise the image?


Yes you would need to use vertical lens shift. I do not perceive any change in image quality. Since you will be hanging the projector upside down I originally set the projector at the same distance from the screen on a table. That allows you to dial in the zoom and focus so you can clearly read the menu right side up at first and then I switch the setting in the projector to ceiling mount. That flips the screen and then I mount it on the ceiling. If you don't take this step it can be difficult to read the menu once you have mounted the projector on the ceiling for two reasons, menu is upside down and it is completely out of focus and therefore unreadable .


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have triple black velvet on the acoustic ceiling tiles all the way back to the bulkhead. The grid itself is also covered in black flocking self-adhering tape. Sides walls are also triple black velvet back to the main listening position. The rest of the room is covered in dark blue matte paint. The white bulkhead does not reflect back onto the screen as it is starts at 11 ft back from the screen. I actually feel it provides almost like a low level back lighting effect and increases perceived contrast. HVAC is noticeable only during really quiet scenes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Not to go too far off topic, but how did you attach the velvet to the drywall sidewalls?
> Not sure I understand how the white bulkhead acts as a backlight if it's nowhere near the screen....
Click to expand...

The Velvet on the side walls is on curtains. The bulkhead it's just a small glimmer of white and if vast sea of of absolute black so it tricks your eyes into thinking the objects away from the glimmer of white are darker than they actually are it is the same concept behind a backlight at least that's what some television and projector calibrators have explained to me but who knows maybe we're all just crazy LOL


----------



## JonfromCB

marjen said:


> I am thinking of’ getting a 5050. It seems vertical placement is an issue. According to the calculator on projector central it looks like it needs to align to the middle of the screen vertically. Is this true? Seems like it would be in the way and just sitting in a seat would present issues where you might block the image. How high are people mounting this? Was thinking of putting on shelf in back of room.


I'm too lazy and time restricted to look, but there were lots of posts about mounting, mounts, and alignment several pages back which should be useful. Screen/PJ alignment is always advised as it can eliminate and surely minimize adjustments that compromise picture quality (perception is relative, adjustments =compromise) My PJ hangs on center approximately 6-7 inches below a 10'8" ceiling , fully adjustable Chief mount, 14' 8" screen to lens. Screen height is also factor, but get it right and you can quite often avoid lens adjustments other than focus.


----------



## amdar

Thanks for the details. Based on the throw distance calculator it is going to be very tight setup. Any image compromise if we use full wide angle zoom? 



DavidK442 said:


> If you are viewing along the long distance then should be OK for 100". The calculator says the lens needs to be 10' back, which leaves 2' for the projector body.
> 
> Here is the link the Projector Central calculator in case you want to learn how to fish.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## marjen

Maybe I am missing something. DOes using vertical lens shift create a keystone effect or no? If not then I guess its not a big deal.


----------



## gene4ht

marjen said:


> Maybe I am missing something. *DOes using vertical lens shift create a keystone effect or no?* If not then I guess its not a big deal.


No...two functionally different adjustments.


----------



## DavidK442

amdar said:


> Thanks for the details. Based on the throw distance calculator it is going to be very tight setup. Any image compromise if we use full wide angle zoom?


No image compromise. In fact by using the widest zoom you will maximize the light output of the projector.


----------



## amdar

Got it. Thank you. 


DavidK442 said:


> No image compromise. In fact by using the widest zoom you will maximize the light output of the projector.


----------



## sddawson

Kelvin1000 said:


> It’s strange because I still can’t do frame interpolation and e-shift simultaneously...


I'm with you. See screen shots...


----------



## Luminated67

sddawson said:


> I'm with you. See screen shots...


I take it your projectors came with this software already installed, if so maybe it’s worthwhile downloading the 1.01 software on to a USB and try to install it yourself.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Chad B is currently calibrating my Epson

3100:1 contrast is my result, my unit is under performing and Chad says all the 5040’s he has done were around 6 to 8,000 to 1

I noticed when this unit came in initially that the blacks were not as deep. This confirms that suspicion and puts me in DLP contrast territory. I’m pretty unhappy with this. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Alex Hindman

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Chad B is currently calibrating my Epson
> 
> 3100:1 contrast is my result, my unit is under performing and Chad says all the 5040’s he has done were around 6 to 8,000 to 1
> 
> I noticed when this unit came in initially that the blacks were not as deep. This confirms that suspicion and puts me in DLP contrast territory. I’m pretty unhappy with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would assume you will be returning it, correct?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Alex Hindman said:


> I would assume you will be returning it, correct?




I will try. I have had the unit for a while I don’t know Best Buy’s policy for returns. If I do return it I will not get another Epson. The deals on an NX-5 are too good to get another Epson. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Chad B is currently calibrating my Epson
> 
> 3100:1 contrast is my result, my unit is under performing and Chad says all the 5040’s he has done were around 6 to 8,000 to 1
> 
> I noticed when this unit came in initially that the blacks were not as deep. This confirms that suspicion and puts me in DLP contrast territory. I’m pretty unhappy with this.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you think its an issue with the unit specifically or all of the 5050s? We haven't seen many complaints about contrast.

I have Chat B coming next month.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

Unit specifically. My first unit had deeper blacks. 

What he has been able to do so far in every area is amazing and he is well worth the price of admission. If I do return the unit and get another I will pay him to come back out. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ike12

Do most people use the Reviews Calibration for their 5040? I am almost always a huge easy to please fan of things as they are (out of the box) but in all reality, I am not 100% impressed thus far with the 5040 for 4K content. I'm sure this is just settings as I am under 4 hours total time with it so far. I keep comparing it to my Samsung OLED 4K and honestly I shouldn't. 



Anyways I am looking for how exactly I should calibrate it, Also what is the normal case for 1080P Blu Rays, TV and then 4K? Do people typically use Memory lens and just swap back and forth? Thanks all


And this is my screen that I was using for my 1080P Projector and have not replaced and probably will not unless others say I must to see a much clearer image.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DGVHZSA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Kelvin1000

Luminated67 said:


> I take it your projectors came with this software already installed, if so maybe it’s worthwhile downloading the 1.01 software on to a USB and try to install it yourself.




I have tried but I believe the website only has the original file...


----------



## soundwave_rider

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Unit specifically. My first unit had deeper blacks.
> 
> What he has been able to do so far in every area is amazing and he is well worth the price of admission. If I do return the unit and get another I will pay him to come back out.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you are getting a new unit I would fight to have Epson pay for the calibration since it was not in any way your fault that your current unit is defective. People say their customer service is fantastic so I would push hard for them to cover Chad B coming back and calibrating.


----------



## JonfromCB

soundwave_rider said:


> If you are getting a new unit I would fight to have Epson pay for the calibration since it was not in any way your fault that your current unit is defective. People say their customer service is fantastic so I would push hard for them to cover Chad B coming back and calibrating.


Yep, my argument would be that you spent additional money trying to get satisfactory performance only to find out that the PJ was not performing near Epson's advertised spec's. I'd ask them to consider reimbursement OR a PJ upgrade. Good luck.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Alex Hindman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would assume you will be returning it, correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try. I have had the unit for a while I don’t know Best Buy’s policy for returns. If I do return it I will not get another Epson. The deals on an NX-5 are too good to get another Epson.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

If you are an Elite member you get 45 days but they do have a serious restocking fee on projectors although I would argue that this is defective and therefore you should not be charged a restocking fee but I don't know how successful you were going to be. This is your second 5050 correct?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

Thank you guys I will let you know what happens. Yes this is my second unit. 

Contrast aside he did say the 5050UB calibrates much better than the 5040 especially for HDR. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ricwhite

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Unit specifically. My first unit had deeper blacks.
> 
> What he has been able to do so far in every area is amazing and he is well worth the price of admission. If I do return the unit and get another I will pay him to come back out.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would contact Epson and explain the situation and the expense of calibration only to find the unit defective. I would request (demand) a 6050 replacement. The upgrade would be to compensate you for the defective unit and the cost of wasted calibration. The 6050 should be better than a "good" 5050. I think you'd be very happy with that.


----------



## SadTVNoob

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Chad B is currently calibrating my Epson
> 
> 3100:1 contrast is my result, my unit is under performing and Chad says all the 5040’s he has done were around 6 to 8,000 to 1
> 
> I noticed when this unit came in initially that the blacks were not as deep. This confirms that suspicion and puts me in DLP contrast territory. I’m pretty unhappy with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I had this happen too. My first unit (new from Best Buy) had really mediocre picture quality and contrast, but I warrantied it with Epson especially because of a green blob. My new unit looks amazing right out of the box with way better blacks and contrast.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



SadTVNoob said:


> I had this happen too. My first unit (new from Best Buy) had really mediocre picture quality and contrast, but I warrantied it with Epson especially because of a green blob. My new unit looks amazing right out of the box with way better blacks and contrast.




So they want to send me another 5050UB and of course they will not reimburse me for the calibration. I not going to yell and scream or do any of that crap but would like the piece of mind knowing they would either QC the unit or send a 6050 so I know the chip is solid. 


Get this. They want to send me a refurbished unit because my original purchase date was 4/13

2 units in two months and now my 3rd won’t be new. Not so sure about the excellent service. I can appreciate not waiting on hold a long time to speak to somebody but that’s crap. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Chad B is currently calibrating my Epson
> 
> 3100:1 contrast is my result, my unit is under performing and Chad says all the 5040’s he has done were around 6 to 8,000 to 1
> 
> I noticed when this unit came in initially that the blacks were not as deep. This confirms that suspicion and puts me in DLP contrast territory. I’m pretty unhappy with this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That’s shocking, I can’t recall exactly what mine was measuring but it was in the 8k mark.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



Luminated67 said:


> That’s shocking, I can’t recall exactly what mine was measuring but it was in the 8k mark.




You should have seen Chads reaction. He was like “oh boy” After he talked about what I should be getting he mentioned what JVC’s get and my jaw hit the floor. 

So I bought an Epson and got a BenQ without the sharpness and extra pixels 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That’s shocking, I can’t recall exactly what mine was measuring but it was in the 8k mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should have seen Chads reaction. He was like “oh boy” After he talked about what I should be getting he mentioned what JVC’s get and my jaw hit the floor.
> 
> So I bought an Epson and got a BenQ without the sharpness and extra pixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Did you mention you were a member of AVS forum and a loyal Epson customer I believe you said you previously owned the 5040


----------



## LIPLASMA

*6050UB or NX5*

I came in way under budget on my speakers for my HT build currently underway. I was set on getting the 6050UB until now.

So with the freed up cash I can afford the NX5 if I want so I am asking all of you, if you had the choice would you go NX5 ?

If it helps my room is 13x22x8 completely light controlled and I am looking to use a 16x9 135" screen.

I am asking this in the 6050UB thread because to ask in the JVC thread which can be slightly "fanatical" I know what they would say. I figured I would get a much more honest response here.

So if any of you have seen both these projectors in action and could weigh in it would be appreciated.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

LIPLASMA said:


> I came in way under budget on my speakers for my HT build currently underway. I was set on getting the 6050UB until now.
> 
> 
> 
> So with the freed up cash I can afford the NX5 if I want so I am asking all of you, if you had the choice would you go NX5 ?
> 
> 
> 
> If it helps my room is 13x22x8 completely light controlled and I am looking to use a 16x9 135" screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I am asking this in the 6050UB thread because to ask in the JVC thread which can be slightly "fanatical" I know what they would say. I figured I would get a much more honest response here.
> 
> 
> 
> So if any of you have seen both these projectors in action and could weigh in it would be appreciated.




I would get the NX-5 but only if your getting under msrp. PM me if you want a vendor that will do a good deal. It’s not much more money at all over the 6050 and if I was able to get a refund on my unit that is the route I would go now. I was not aware of the deals to be had when I made my purchase. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MidnightWatcher

120" and under I'd say the NX5. Over 120" I'd lean towards the 6050.


----------



## skylarlove1999

LIPLASMA said:


> I came in way under budget on my speakers for my HT build currently underway. I was set on getting the 6050UB until now.
> 
> So with the freed up cash I can afford the NX5 if I want so I am asking all of you, if you had the choice would you go NX5 ?
> 
> If it helps my room is 13x22x8 completely light controlled and I am looking to use a 16x9 135" screen.
> 
> I am asking this in the 6050UB thread because to ask in the JVC thread which can be slightly "fanatical" I know what they would say. I figured I would get a much more honest response here.
> 
> So if any of you have seen both these projectors in action and could weigh in it would be appreciated.[/QUOTE
> 
> ] how far back will your main listening position be from the screen. I tend to think with that size screen you would want the extra lumens from the 6050. I own the 6050 and have seen the NX5. I think their as a little more sharpness and detail to the JVC. Slightly deeper blacks. I would say the NX7 is the sweet spot for the new line of JVC projectors but not as MSRP. HDR performance was really good on the NX5 due to the auto tone mapping. I would say it was on par with my 6050. I did not get a chance to compare them side by side nor did I get the NX5 in my blacked out theater. Here is a pic from my 6050 using just my phone. Movie was playing not paused.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Keep in mind, JVC replacement lamps are $$$ vs $ for Epson.


----------



## BUman

Having my Epson 5050 installed tomorrow. Upgrading from an Epson 6030 that is about 5 years old. 

I was curious if anyone has display settings, etc they can paste that would help with the install. 

Thanks


----------



## plain fan

I have question for the 5050 and 6050 owners here, how many of you are using a streaming service for 4k material? I'm curious how the tone mapping for HDR from a streaming service works compared to a disc based source. I am asking because it seems like the JVCs do really well on discs when paired with one of the Panasonic players but if I go 4k I want to enjoy all of the 4k content out there and not just be limited to discs.


----------



## BUman

JewDaddy said:


> Hey everyone! I’ve been working on dialing in HDR 4K movie settings and I feel like I finally got them where they look fantastic! I’ve tried Alaric’s Bright and Digital Cinema. They both have things I like and dislike about them. However, I keep finding myself going back to the settings I’ve dialed in myself. I feel like they’re a good balance of both of his bright and digital cinema settings. Would love some feedback if anyone wants to try them out. Let me know!
> 
> Color Mode - Natural
> Brightness - 48
> Contrast - 43
> Color Saturation - 56
> Tint - 50
> Sharpness - 5,5,5
> Color Temp - 7000K
> Skin Tone - 3
> Custom - 46,49,52,45,50,52
> Grayscale
> Adjustment 8 0,0-1
> Adjustment 7 -2,0,0
> Adjustment 6 -1,1,0
> Adjustment 5 -1,-2,-2
> Adjustment 4 -1,0,1
> Adjustment 3 -2,-2,0
> Adjustment 2 0,0,0
> Adjustment 1 0,0,0
> Image Enhancement - Preset 2
> Gamma -2
> Did not adjust RGBCMY
> Lens Iris 0
> Power Consumption - High
> Auto Iris - High
> Video Range - Auto
> EDID - Expanded
> Image Processing - Fine
> HDR10 Setting - 5
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Finally bought the Epson 5050. I'm installing in the next day or two, are these still the settings some would recommend and are they just for 4k movies or also for TV (DirecTV) watching? 
I have a Screen innovations black diamond 1.2 gain that is about 5 years old (115")
My projector is in the ceiling about 22 foot throw. 
Any other installation tips would be great.

Thanks


----------



## skylarlove1999

plain fan said:


> I have question for the 5050 and 6050 owners here, how many of you are using a streaming service for 4k material? I'm curious how the tone mapping for HDR from a streaming service works compared to a disc based source. I am asking because it seems like the JVCs do really well on discs when paired with one of the Panasonic players but if I go 4k I want to enjoy all of the 4k content out there and not just be limited to discs.


I have about 100 titles on UHD through Vudu. Obviously disc is always better unless you are using discs ripped in 4k to your own server or are able to afford Kaleidascape . I do find my 6050UB does a really great job with Netflix Amazon Prime and Vudu 4k content with HDR. I usually have to dial in the slider a little more with streaming. Vudu does it the best . Prime tends to oversaturate colors and brighten too much using HDR so I dial the slider back. Netflix the opposite not as bright and colors don't pop as much. But the slider works very well for adjusting HDR.


----------



## BUman

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Thank you guys I will let you know what happens. Yes this is my second unit.
> 
> Contrast aside he did say the 5050UB calibrates much better than the 5040 especially for HDR.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What calibration settings did you use?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

MidnightWatcher said:


> 120" and under I'd say the NX5. Over 120" I'd lean towards the 6050.




I got my unit professionally calibrated by Chad B. Everybody who owns equipment of this caliber and capability owes it to themselves to do the same. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

LIPLASMA said:


> So with the freed up cash I can afford the NX5 if I want so I am asking all of you, if you had the choice would you go NX5 ?


As somebody else has already said, it depends on how important any sort of HDR effect is to you. Go to http://webprojectorcalculator.com and find a JVC projector similar in lumens to an NX5, like a 790 or 990. On a 135" screen, you'll find that you won't get to the recommended Fl for HDR (30). The 5050 will. The JVC might well give you the better overall picture and better blacks, but probably no HDR effect. And I love the HDR effect! I too have a 135" screen, and my 9400 (same as 6050) really does show the specular highlights very well (new lamp, mind you), as long as you use high lamp without the filter (which is fine by me). For the price, I'm pretty stunned at this. So it all comes down to what aspect of the picture means most to you...


----------



## Luminated67

LIPLASMA said:


> I came in way under budget on my speakers for my HT build currently underway. I was set on getting the 6050UB until now.
> 
> So with the freed up cash I can afford the NX5 if I want so I am asking all of you, if you had the choice would you go NX5 ?
> 
> If it helps my room is 13x22x8 completely light controlled and I am looking to use a 16x9 135" screen.
> 
> I am asking this in the 6050UB thread because to ask in the JVC thread which can be slightly "fanatical" I know what they would say. I figured I would get a much more honest response here.
> 
> So if any of you have seen both these projectors in action and could weigh in it would be appreciated.


You will get diehard JVC fans who will dismiss the Epson simply because the JVC has superior blacks which is indeed true but on this particular model it isn’t as dramatic as you would think. But I’m a great believer in see with your own eyes and compare both side by side, at least that way you can justify your decision from actual experience rather than listening to heresy opinions.

One thing that we are all in agreement with is viewing distance to screen size ratio determines where the benefits of Native 4K affect viewing enjoyment.


----------



## LIPLASMA

LIPLASMA said:


> I came in way under budget on my speakers for my HT build currently underway. I was set on getting the 6050UB until now.
> 
> So with the freed up cash I can afford the NX5 if I want so I am asking all of you, if you had the choice would you go NX5 ?
> 
> If it helps my room is 13x22x8 completely light controlled and I am looking to use a 16x9 135" screen.
> 
> I am asking this in the 6050UB thread because to ask in the JVC thread which can be slightly "fanatical" I know what they would say. I figured I would get a much more honest response here.
> 
> So if any of you have seen both these projectors in action and could weigh in it would be appreciated.


Thanks for all the input.

So after reading the suggestions I have another question.

Taking projector selection out of the equation for a min would you be better off using a smaller say 120-125" screen and moving your seats closer to the screen or using a larger screen? It seems from allot of comments I have read there is a direct correlation between screen size and the effectiveness of HDR?


----------



## Luminated67

LIPLASMA said:


> Thanks for all the input.
> 
> So after reading the suggestions I have another question.
> 
> Taking projector selection out of the equation for a min would you be better off using a smaller say 120-125" screen and moving your seats closer to the screen or using a larger screen? It seems from allot of comments I have read there is a direct correlation between screen size and the effectiveness of HDR?


It has an effect for sure but the smaller screen won't give the immersive experience of a larger screen. I think you should ask if there is any members in your area who would allow you to come along a see their setup, that way you can see which is most important to you be it size or HDR.

I can tell you that if you are coming from a big TV (65") then a 120" screen is enormous.


----------



## dr bill

BUman said:


> Having my Epson 5050 installed tomorrow. Upgrading from an Epson 6030 that is about 5 years old.
> 
> I was curious if anyone has display settings, etc they can paste that would help with the install.
> 
> Thanks



*Alaric's settings:*

https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home#h.p_1sV9E16x38lM

https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home


*Projectorreview's settings:*

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-advanced-calibration/


*Enjoy!*


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

dr bill said:


> *Alaric's settings:*
> 
> 
> 
> https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home#h.p_1sV9E16x38lM
> 
> 
> 
> https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Projectorreview's settings:*
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-advanced-calibration/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Enjoy!*




No generic settings compare to a real calibration. If there is one thing that is absolutely confirmed it’s the amount of variation between units. Despite my units contrast issue the amount of sharpness and detail I am now seeing is eye opening it’s such a big difference I will pay him to come back and do my replacement unit since Epson will not set up to the plate on that. $450 for the 5 hours he spent here actually seems like a bargain I can’t recommend it enough. 

I will give a more thorough review if there are interested parties. 

I would recommend Alaric’s over pjreviews as I found them to be quite unnatural looking. Poor skin tones etc. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> dr bill said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Alaric's settings:*
> 
> 
> 
> https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home#h.p_1sV9E16x38lM
> 
> 
> 
> https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Projectorreview's settings:*
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-advanced-calibration/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Enjoy!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No generic settings compare to a real calibration. If there is one thing that is absolutely confirmed it’s the amount of variation between units. Despite my units contrast issue the amount of sharpness and detail I am now seeing is eye opening it’s such a big difference I will pay him to come back and do my replacement unit since Epson will not set up to the plate on that. $450 for the 5 hours he spent here actually seems like a bargain I can’t recommend it enough.
> 
> I will give a more thorough review if there are interested parties.
> 
> I would recommend Alaric’s over pjreviews as I found them to be quite unnatural looking. Poor skin tones etc.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have to agree that there is no substitute for a professional calibration there is just too much variation as you stated between units. I think my picture looks absolutely amazing now but I'm positive after professional calibration it will look better. Jeff Meier of Accucal AV calibrated my 5040. I'm not saying you can't enjoy an uncalibrated projector by using some generic settings because I am definitely enjoying my projector immensely right now I just know that it can be better.


----------



## ricwhite

What would be a reasonable amount to pay for a professional calibration of a projector?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Chad B charges $450 he is among the best. HDTVBYCHAD.com 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

ricwhite said:


> What would be a reasonable amount to pay for a professional calibration of a projector?


Varies by region, availability and experience. Chad B , Kris Deering and Jeff Meier are mentioned frequently on this forum. Rates will vary based upon travel, set tours and combining audio and video calibration at the same time. I would say anything under $500 would be a bargain and even if over it might still be a bargain based upon the specific calibration provided.


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> Varies by region, availability and experience. Chad B , Kris Deering and Jeff Meier are mentioned frequently on this forum. Rates will vary based upon travel, set tours and combining audio and video calibration at the same time. I would say anything under $500 would be a bargain and even if over it might still be a bargain based upon the specific calibration provided.


Are there any known discernable differences between this trio? Not in price but in the finished product. It seems like you sometimes read that folks feel the picture looks a bit washed out after calibration while others have had Chad (for example) come out and claim how the picture seems to pop. I'm not alluding to Kris or Jeff regarding the washed out appearance, I'm just using Chad in this example as you have brought him up.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Varies by region, availability and experience. Chad B , Kris Deering and Jeff Meier are mentioned frequently on this forum. Rates will vary based upon travel, set tours and combining audio and video calibration at the same time. I would say anything under $500 would be a bargain and even if over it might still be a bargain based upon the specific calibration provided.
> 
> 
> 
> Are there any known discernable differences between this trio? Not in price but in the finished product. It seems like you sometimes read that folks feel the picture looks a bit washed out after calibration while others have had Chad (for example) come out and claim how the picture seems to pop. I'm not alluding to Kris or Jeff regarding the washed out appearance, I'm just using Chad in this example as you have brought him up.
Click to expand...

I am sure that each person mentioned above has a specific ideal for they think the picture should look like and there are obviously certain ISF standards for color. I am also certain that they spend so much time with you that you can personalized the picture explain to him what's important to you for example are you a person who needs absolute blacks or do you prefer a little more pop to your image and would sacrifice a little bit of black are you a person who needs to have the color be 100% accurate or would you sacrifice some of that accuracy for brighter HDR. I can't confirm that everyone who gets a calibration by any of these three professionals has been 100% satisfied but judging from the reviews on each of their sites they have many satisfied and actually thrilled customers after the various calibrations myself included when it comes to Jeff Meier


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am sure that each person mentioned above has a specific ideal for they think the picture should look like and there are obviously certain ISF standards for color. I am also certain that they spend so much time with you that you can personalized the picture explain to him what's important to you for example are you a person who needs absolute blacks or do you prefer a little more pop to your image and would sacrifice a little bit of black are you a person who needs to have the color be 100% accurate or would you sacrifice some of that accuracy for brighter HDR. I can't confirm that everyone who gets a calibration by any of these three professionals has been 100% satisfied but judging from the reviews on each of their sites they have many satisfied and actually thrilled customers after the various calibrations myself included when it comes to Jeff Meier


Jeff is about a 4 hour (ish) drive for me so that's my likely guy. I'm going to jump to the 5050 or 6050 this summer and then add Atmos in the fall. I will wait until after the audio upgrade so he can do both. He seems to claim people expect more from the video and end up impressed more with the audio calibration if he does both. Not that they don't like the video but they don't realize what they are missing without the audio calibration. Just have to decide if the 6050 is worth the extra $1,000.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure that each person mentioned above has a specific ideal for they think the picture should look like and there are obviously certain ISF standards for color. I am also certain that they spend so much time with you that you can personalized the picture explain to him what's important to you for example are you a person who needs absolute blacks or do you prefer a little more pop to your image and would sacrifice a little bit of black are you a person who needs to have the color be 100% accurate or would you sacrifice some of that accuracy for brighter HDR. I can't confirm that everyone who gets a calibration by any of these three professionals has been 100% satisfied but judging from the reviews on each of their sites they have many satisfied and actually thrilled customers after the various calibrations myself included when it comes to Jeff Meier
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff is about a 4 hour (ish) drive for me so that's my likely guy. I'm going to jump to the 5050 or 6050 this summer and then add Atmos in the fall. I will wait until after the audio upgrade so he can do both. He seems to claim people expect more from the video and end up impressed more with the audio calibration if he does both. Not that they don't like the video but they don't realize what they are missing without the audio calibration. Just have to decide if the 6050 is worth the extra $1,000.
Click to expand...

I have to agree with Jeff's assessment that I couldn't believe how much better he made my audio sound he made my basement home theater sound like a true Cinema. I was and still am amazed at the where he transformed all aspects of my audio system and I don't have the most expensive audio equipment except for my PB Ultra 16. Denon receiver middle range at the time and energy speakers that are 14 years old. I was considering getting new speakers until he did the calibration and now myself and all my friends are amazed when they come to watch a movie.


----------



## BUman

Urgent Installation Question:

Our installers say almost all the projectors only have 1 HDMI 2.2 port which gives you the best picture even though all the HDMI ports are 4k.
We currently watch most of our movies/TV through DirectTV and Apple TV which has Netflix and Amazon Prime. 

We are hooking up an Xbox for the BlueRay player but we haven't bought a BlueRay/DVD in probably 2-3 years, we order all our movies from DirectTV AppleTV or Prime. 

Since the Xbox and AppleTV can have Netflix and we don't play many games or watch BlueRay would the main HDMI 2.2 port that has the best color, etc be connected straight to our 4k Apple TV? 

Thank you


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> Urgent Installation Question:
> 
> Our installers say almost all the projectors only have 1 HDMI 2.2 port which gives you the best picture even though all the HDMI ports are 4k.
> We currently watch most of our movies/TV through DirectTV and Apple TV which has Netflix and Amazon Prime.
> 
> We are hooking up an Xbox for the BlueRay player but we haven't bought a BlueRay/DVD in probably 2-3 years, we order all our movies from DirectTV AppleTV or Prime.
> 
> Since the Xbox and AppleTV can have Netflix and we don't play many games or watch BlueRay would the main HDMI 2.2 port that has the best color, etc be connected straight to our 4k Apple TV?
> 
> Thank you


To which projector are you referring?


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> Urgent Installation Question:
> 
> Our installers say almost all the projectors only have 1 HDMI 2.2 port which gives you the best picture even though all the HDMI ports are 4k.
> We currently watch most of our movies/TV through DirectTV and Apple TV which has Netflix and Amazon Prime.
> 
> We are hooking up an Xbox for the BlueRay player but we haven't bought a BlueRay/DVD in probably 2-3 years, we order all our movies from DirectTV AppleTV or Prime.
> 
> Since the Xbox and AppleTV can have Netflix and we don't play many games or watch BlueRay would the main HDMI 2.2 port that has the best color, etc be connected straight to our 4k Apple TV?
> 
> Thank you


I would be more concerned that your installer doesn't know the difference between HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0 nor do they seem to be providing you with the service for which they are being paid. They should know your equipment and should easily be able to explain why they are making the recommendations and installations for which you are paying. Here is an article to explain 4K specifications .

https://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/fea...-you-need-know-about-hdcp-22-hdmi-20-hevc-uhd


----------



## BUman

skylarlove1999 said:


> I would be more concerned that your installer doesn't know the difference between HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0 nor do they seem to be providing you with the service for which they are being paid. They should know your equipment and should easily be able to explain why they are making the recommendations and installations for which you are paying. Here is an article to explain 4K specifications .
> 
> https://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/fea...-you-need-know-about-hdcp-22-hdmi-20-hevc-uhd



Epson 5050

They messed up and don't have long enough HDMI 4k cable as they need to wire a 2nd HDMI cable to the back of the projector. They are also saying our DirecTV will not be enhanced w/ a 4k cable since it's not 4k TV but I thought I read from Epson and another dealer that said the picture will be better even when not watching 4k TV w/ the new Epson 5050. Is this not true? I'm sure it's very minor since it's not 4k but the picture should be even better? 

What are your thoughts on the HDCP 2.2 being hooked straight to Apple TV vs Xbox vs straight to the receiver? What is the norm or best thing to hook up the Epson 2.2 port to? 

Thanks again


----------



## BUman

skylarlove1999 said:


> I would be more concerned that your installer doesn't know the difference between HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0 nor do they seem to be providing you with the service for which they are being paid. They should know your equipment and should easily be able to explain why they are making the recommendations and installations for which you are paying. Here is an article to explain 4K specifications .
> 
> https://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/fea...-you-need-know-about-hdcp-22-hdmi-20-hevc-uhd



Is it better to install the projector upside down vs right side up if we're having it mounted on the ceiling about 20 feet back? The ceiling is about 10 feet tall w/ a 115" screen. Our last Epson we had upside down but he said w/ the lens shift he could install it right side up. . I'm a little concerned these Best Buy guys don't do many Epson and they are just guessing. Thoughts on installing upside down or right side up? 

Another issue/question since our projector is in the back ceiling and the 4k HDMI cable has to run up to 18 feet to the receiver. 
1. If we have a cable that is 18 feet will that start to hurt your picture quality vs using an ethernet cable from the projector connecting to the 4k converter that plugs into the receiver?

Thanks


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would be more concerned that your installer doesn't know the difference between HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0 nor do they seem to be providing you with the service for which they are being paid. They should know your equipment and should easily be able to explain why they are making the recommendations and installations for which you are paying. Here is an article to explain 4K specifications .
> 
> https://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/fea...-you-need-know-about-hdcp-22-hdmi-20-hevc-uhd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it better to install the projector upside down vs right side up if we're having it mounted on the ceiling about 20 feet back? The ceiling is about 10 feet tall w/ a 115" screen. Our last Epson we had upside down but he said w/ the lens shift he could install it right side up. . I'm a little concerned these Best Buy guys don't do many Epson and they are just guessing. Thoughts on installing upside down or right side up?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

Honest I hope that you are kidding unless you have a shelf installed on your ceiling how would you install the projector right side up since the mounting holes for the projector are only on one side. Please tell me you are trolling please tell me you are joking. Just curious as to why you are mounting it's so far back if you only have a hundred 15 inch screen if possible it makes more sense to mount it closer so you're getting more lumens on the screen the further back the projector is mounted you lose brightness.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would be more concerned that your installer doesn't know the difference between HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0 nor do they seem to be providing you with the service for which they are being paid. They should know your equipment and should easily be able to explain why they are making the recommendations and installations for which you are paying. Here is an article to explain 4K specifications .
> 
> https://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/fea...-you-need-know-about-hdcp-22-hdmi-20-hevc-uhd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson 5050
> 
> They messed up and don't have long enough HDMI 4k cable as they need to wire a 2nd HDMI cable to the back of the projector. They are also saying our DirecTV will not be enhanced w/ a 4k cable since it's not 4k TV but I thought I read from Epson and another dealer that said the picture will be better even when not watching 4k TV w/ the new Epson 5050. Is this not true? I'm sure it's very minor since it's not 4k but the picture should be even better?
> 
> What are your thoughts on the HDCP 2.2 being hooked straight to Apple TV vs Xbox vs straight to the receiver? What is the norm or best thing to hook up the Epson 2.2 port to?
> 
> Thanks again
Click to expand...

Honestly I would be asking for a significant discount for my money back for the installation both of the ports on the Epson 5050 are HDMI 2.0 an hdcp 2.2 compliant. Both HDMI ports are identical and support 18 gigabits per second. DirecTV does offer some 4K programming but you would have to have their 4K box if your DirecTV box is just 1080p then it sends a 1080p signal to your receiver. The projector can then upscale that 1080p signal to 4K. Some people prefer not upscaling 1080p which you can choose in the projector not to upscale 1080p but honestly all these questions and the answers should easily be understood by your installer which I believe you said it's Best Buy. I would be telling them to send me out somebody at this point who knows what they're doing because it's pretty obvious at this point that whoever is in your house does not.


----------



## BUman

skylarlove1999 said:


> Honest I hope that you are kidding unless you have a shelf installed on your ceiling how would you install the projector right side up since the mounting holes for the projector are only on one side. Please tell me you are trolling please tell me you are joking. Just curious as to why you are mounting it's so far back if you only have a hundred 15 inch screen if possible it makes more sense to mount it closer so you're getting more lumens on the screen the further back the projector is mounted you lose brightness.


Not trolling We have a soffit w/ a box cut out shelf where the projector sits on that shelf next to the ceiling. Our old Epson 6030 had no issues w/ picture quality sitting that far back. I'm sure it could be a little better mounting it on the ceiling and moving it up 5-10 feet but aesthetically for the room it's in it looks much better in our crown moulded soffit ceiling shelf that was built for the projector. 

If you have a HDMI cable that needs to be 18 feet run from the projector to the receiver would use use the HDMI 4k cable or use an ethernet cable to a converter?


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would be more concerned that your installer doesn't know the difference between HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0 nor do they seem to be providing you with the service for which they are being paid. They should know your equipment and should easily be able to explain why they are making the recommendations and installations for which you are paying. Here is an article to explain 4K specifications .
> 
> https://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/fea...-you-need-know-about-hdcp-22-hdmi-20-hevc-uhd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson 5050
> 
> They messed up and don't have long enough HDMI 4k cable as they need to wire a 2nd HDMI cable to the back of the projector. They are also saying our DirecTV will not be enhanced w/ a 4k cable since it's not 4k TV but I thought I read from Epson and another dealer that said the picture will be better even when not watching 4k TV w/ the new Epson 5050. Is this not true? I'm sure it's very minor since it's not 4k but the picture should be even better?
> 
> What are your thoughts on the HDCP 2.2 being hooked straight to Apple TV vs Xbox vs straight to the receiver? What is the norm or best thing to hook up the Epson 2.2 port to?
> 
> Thanks again
Click to expand...

Honestly if you have an AV receiver all of your sources meaning the Apple TV, your Xbox, any Blu-ray player, your DirecTV box and anything else should be going to your AV receiver and then just your one HDMI connection from your HDMI out on your AV receiver to the HDMI port on your Epson 5050. I can't believe you're having a professional do this installation and you're coming here to ask these questions. This is not disrespectful to you I just can't believe a professional is in your house and doesn't know what to do.


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> BUman said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would be more concerned that your installer doesn't know the difference between HDCP 2.2 and HDMI 2.0 nor do they seem to be providing you with the service for which they are being paid. They should know your equipment and should easily be able to explain why they are making the recommendations and installations for which you are paying. Here is an article to explain 4K specifications .
> 
> https://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/fea...-you-need-know-about-hdcp-22-hdmi-20-hevc-uhd
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson 5050
> 
> They messed up and don't have long enough HDMI 4k cable as they need to wire a 2nd HDMI cable to the back of the projector. They are also saying our DirecTV will not be enhanced w/ a 4k cable since it's not 4k TV but I thought I read from Epson and another dealer that said the picture will be better even when not watching 4k TV w/ the new Epson 5050. Is this not true? I'm sure it's very minor since it's not 4k but the picture should be even better?
> 
> What are your thoughts on the HDCP 2.2 being hooked straight to Apple TV vs Xbox vs straight to the receiver? What is the norm or best thing to hook up the Epson 2.2 port to?
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Honestly if you have an AV receiver all of your sources meaning the Apple TV, your Xbox, any Blu-ray player, your DirecTV box and anything else should be going to your AV receiver and then just your one HDMI connection from your HDMI out on your AV receiver to the HDMI port on your Epson 5050. I can't believe you're having a professional do this installation and you're coming here to ask these questions. This is not disrespectful to you I just can't believe a professional is in your house and doesn't know what to do.
Click to expand...

The only explanation that makes any sense as to why you're trying to bypass your AV receiver is that your AV receiver is not 4K capable and hdcp 2.2 compliant. In that case they should have at least explain to you what the options are and they should have already been prepared for that because they should have known what your equipment was before they came out to do the installation that is the first question anybody should ask and they should have you fill out a questionnaire describing all of your equipment so they are prepared well in advance. If they made a mistake by not having the HDMI cables they need they should be going back to the store and getting what they need honestly it should already be on their truck. It certainly does not sound like you have a qualified installer in your home right now.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Honest I hope that you are kidding unless you have a shelf installed on your ceiling how would you install the projector right side up since the mounting holes for the projector are only on one side. Please tell me you are trolling please tell me you are joking. Just curious as to why you are mounting it's so far back if you only have a hundred 15 inch screen if possible it makes more sense to mount it closer so you're getting more lumens on the screen the further back the projector is mounted you lose brightness.
> 
> 
> 
> Not trolling/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif We have a soffit w/ a box cut out shelf where the projector sits on that shelf next to the ceiling. Our old Epson 6030 had no issues w/ picture quality sitting that far back. I'm sure it could be a little better mounting it on the ceiling and moving it up 5-10 feet but aesthetically for the room it's in it looks much better in our crown moulded soffit ceiling shelf that was built for the projector.
> 
> If you have a HDMI cable that needs to be 18 feet run from the projector to the receiver would use use the HDMI 4k cable or use an ethernet cable to a converter?
Click to expand...

The smaller the number of components like a converter the better in your chain between your receiver and your projector to avoid any handshake issues. It is up to you which way you would like to mount the projector. I personally feel the projector is more secure mounting it to the ceiling with a mount then having it in a shelf. Some people believe a shelf cuts down on the projector noise just make sure the front of the projector is clear since that's where the Heat and fan exhaust.


----------



## BUman

skylarlove1999 said:


> Honestly if you have an AV receiver all of your sources meaning the Apple TV, your Xbox, any Blu-ray player, your DirecTV box and anything else should be going to your AV receiver and then just your one HDMI connection from your HDMI out on your AV receiver to the HDMI port on your Epson 5050. I can't believe you're having a professional do this installation and you're coming here to ask these questions. This is not disrespectful to you I just can't believe a professional is in your house and doesn't know what to do.


We moved from Dallas where everyone knew a lot to an area outside the city where obviously they don't do as many. They are trying to say plugging the main 4k device (Apple TV or XBox/BlueRay) straight to the projector 2.2 port will give us better quality than having it go to the receiver and then 1 cord to the projector. We are buying a new marantz 4k receiver so I can't imagine it makes that much difference. He was also saying after 4 years of doing this the X Box can have issues converting thru the receiver to projectors. Have no idea if that's true or not but now the issue is having an 18 foot HDMI cable coming down to the receiver from the Epson 5050 will we lose quality or should we go with the Ethernet converter or is that not a big deal? 

Obviously I'm not an audio/visual guy, we've had an Epson 6030 for 5 years and had it professionally installed by another company so it's certainly frustrating getting 4-5 different options from everyone. I had done my homework prior by calling the best stores in the Dallas area so it's getting confusing.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Honest I hope that you are kidding unless you have a shelf installed on your ceiling how would you install the projector right side up since the mounting holes for the projector are only on one side. Please tell me you are trolling please tell me you are joking. Just curious as to why you are mounting it's so far back if you only have a hundred 15 inch screen if possible it makes more sense to mount it closer so you're getting more lumens on the screen the further back the projector is mounted you lose brightness.
> 
> 
> 
> Not trolling/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif We have a soffit w/ a box cut out shelf where the projector sits on that shelf next to the ceiling. Our old Epson 6030 had no issues w/ picture quality sitting that far back. I'm sure it could be a little better mounting it on the ceiling and moving it up 5-10 feet but aesthetically for the room it's in it looks much better in our crown moulded soffit ceiling shelf that was built for the projector.
> 
> If you have a HDMI cable that needs to be 18 feet run from the projector to the receiver would use use the HDMI 4k cable or use an ethernet cable to a converter?
Click to expand...

18 ft is not a very long run for an HDMI cable. I would not introduce the ethernet cable / converter combination. It seems unnecessary for your installation. Please make sure you check all your sources are working before the gentleman leave as I do not have great confidence in their abilities at this point. They should at the very least know that the Epson 5050 has two identical HDMI ports.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly if you have an AV receiver all of your sources meaning the Apple TV, your Xbox, any Blu-ray player, your DirecTV box and anything else should be going to your AV receiver and then just your one HDMI connection from your HDMI out on your AV receiver to the HDMI port on your Epson 5050. I can't believe you're having a professional do this installation and you're coming here to ask these questions. This is not disrespectful to you I just can't believe a professional is in your house and doesn't know what to do.
> 
> 
> 
> We moved from Dallas where everyone knew a lot to an area outside the city where obviously they don't do as many. They are trying to say plugging the main 4k device (Apple TV or XBox/BlueRay) straight to the projector 2.2 port will give us better quality than having it go to the receiver and then 1 cord to the projector. We are buying a new marantz 4k receiver so I can't imagine it makes that much difference. He was also saying after 4 years of doing this the X Box can have issues converting thru the receiver to projectors. Have no idea if that's true or not but now the issue is having an 18 foot HDMI cable coming down to the receiver from the Epson 5050 will we lose quality or should we go with the Ethernet converter or is that not a big deal?
> 
> Obviously I'm not an audio/visual guy, we've had an Epson 6030 for 5 years and had it professionally installed by another company so it's certainly frustrating getting 4-5 different options from everyone. I had done my homework prior by calling the best stores in the Dallas area so it's getting confusing.
Click to expand...

For an 18 foot run from your receiver to your projector you should not lose any quality if you're using a good HDMI cable. I can't speak to the Xbox issue that the installers mentioning. He may have had that happened and blame the Xbox going into the receiver but quite frankly it could have been the HDMI cable causing handshake issues it could be the Xbox the receiver or the display causing handshake issues. I personally think it's easier do you have everything running into your receiver and then one cable running to your projector. It takes out the complexities if any issues arrive if you are only using one HDMI cable. You are paying for the installation their job is to listen to you and to make it work.


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> No generic settings compare to a real calibration. If there is one thing that is absolutely confirmed it’s the amount of variation between units. Despite my units contrast issue the amount of sharpness and detail I am now seeing is eye opening it’s such a big difference I will pay him to come back and do my replacement unit since Epson will not set up to the plate on that. $450 for the 5 hours he spent here actually seems like a bargain I can’t recommend it enough.
> 
> I will give a more thorough review if there are interested parties.
> 
> I would recommend Alaric’s over pjreviews as I found them to be quite unnatural looking. Poor skin tones etc.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I originally thought this was true for me too, I compared the settings from Projector Reviews with those of Gordon and everything was night and day different, on mine the PR settings in HRD the colour was quite different but it was actually the amount of visible detail was considerable but I have since re-checked the settings and realised I put some in wrong because of the way they put them out on their page and after fixing this the difference is a lot more subtle than first thought. So I retook the photos.










Gordon’s calibrated settings










Projector Reviews settings

Skin Tone is still the biggest difference but all else is quite similar despite the two settings being a world apart.


----------



## BUman

skylarlove1999 said:


> 18 ft is not a very long run for an HDMI cable. I would not introduce the ethernet cable / converter combination. It seems unnecessary for your installation. Please make sure you check all your sources are working before the gentleman leave as I do not have great confidence in their abilities at this point. They should at the very least know that the Epson 5050 has two identical HDMI ports.


Epson's page has #1 port as the 2.2. I don't see where the 2nd HDMI is also 2.2 compatible. 

https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56380.pdf


----------



## --Sclaws

BUman said:


> We moved from Dallas where everyone knew a lot to an area outside the city where obviously they don't do as many. They are trying to say plugging the main 4k device (Apple TV or XBox/BlueRay) straight to the projector 2.2 port will give us better quality than having it go to the receiver and then 1 cord to the projector. We are buying a new marantz 4k receiver so I can't imagine it makes that much difference. He was also saying after 4 years of doing this the X Box can have issues converting thru the receiver to projectors. Have no idea if that's true or not but now the issue is having an 18 foot HDMI cable coming down to the receiver from the Epson 5050 will we lose quality or should we go with the Ethernet converter or is that not a big deal?
> 
> Obviously I'm not an audio/visual guy, we've had an Epson 6030 for 5 years and had it professionally installed by another company so it's certainly frustrating getting 4-5 different options from everyone. I had done my homework prior by calling the best stores in the Dallas area so it's getting confusing.


Both HDMI ports on the 5050 are identical and support HDCP 2.2. See the 'Terminal Inputs' part of the product page. https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...Advanced-3-Chip-Design-and-HDR10/p/V11H930020


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 18 ft is not a very long run for an HDMI cable. I would not introduce the ethernet cable / converter combination. It seems unnecessary for your installation. Please make sure you check all your sources are working before the gentleman leave as I do not have great confidence in their abilities at this point. They should at the very least know that the Epson 5050 has two identical HDMI ports.
> 
> 
> 
> Epson's page has #1 port as the 2.2. I don't see where the 2nd HDMI is also 2.2 compatible.
> 
> https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56380.pdf
Click to expand...

I have various contacts at Epson. Senior management and senior product support.They confirmed that that both the ports are identical when the projector was first released in early April. Quite frankly I trust them a lot more than I trust Best Buy LOL.


----------



## skylarlove1999

--Sclaws said:


> BUman said:
> 
> 
> 
> We moved from Dallas where everyone knew a lot to an area outside the city where obviously they don't do as many. They are trying to say plugging the main 4k device (Apple TV or XBox/BlueRay) straight to the projector 2.2 port will give us better quality than having it go to the receiver and then 1 cord to the projector. We are buying a new marantz 4k receiver so I can't imagine it makes that much difference. He was also saying after 4 years of doing this the X Box can have issues converting thru the receiver to projectors. Have no idea if that's true or not but now the issue is having an 18 foot HDMI cable coming down to the receiver from the Epson 5050 will we lose quality or should we go with the Ethernet converter or is that not a big deal?
> 
> Obviously I'm not an audio/visual guy, we've had an Epson 6030 for 5 years and had it professionally installed by another company so it's certainly frustrating getting 4-5 different options from everyone. I had done my homework prior by calling the best stores in the Dallas area so it's getting confusing.
> 
> 
> 
> Both HDMI ports on the 5050 are identical and support HDCP 2.2. See the 'Terminal Inputs' part of the product page. https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...Advanced-3-Chip-Design-and-HDR10/p/V11H930020
Click to expand...

Real easy way to test it just plug the HDMI cable from the Apple 4K TV into each of the ports and run test


----------



## skylarlove1999

--Sclaws said:


> BUman said:
> 
> 
> 
> We moved from Dallas where everyone knew a lot to an area outside the city where obviously they don't do as many. They are trying to say plugging the main 4k device (Apple TV or XBox/BlueRay) straight to the projector 2.2 port will give us better quality than having it go to the receiver and then 1 cord to the projector. We are buying a new marantz 4k receiver so I can't imagine it makes that much difference. He was also saying after 4 years of doing this the X Box can have issues converting thru the receiver to projectors. Have no idea if that's true or not but now the issue is having an 18 foot HDMI cable coming down to the receiver from the Epson 5050 will we lose quality or should we go with the Ethernet converter or is that not a big deal?
> 
> Obviously I'm not an audio/visual guy, we've had an Epson 6030 for 5 years and had it professionally installed by another company so it's certainly frustrating getting 4-5 different options from everyone. I had done my homework prior by calling the best stores in the Dallas area so it's getting confusing.
> 
> 
> 
> Both HDMI ports on the 5050 are identical and support HDCP 2.2. See the 'Terminal Inputs' part of the product page. https://epson.com/For-Home/Projecto...Advanced-3-Chip-Design-and-HDR10/p/V11H930020
Click to expand...

+1

They are identical. Best Buy worst install. Lol.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 18 ft is not a very long run for an HDMI cable. I would not introduce the ethernet cable / converter combination. It seems unnecessary for your installation. Please make sure you check all your sources are working before the gentleman leave as I do not have great confidence in their abilities at this point. They should at the very least know that the Epson 5050 has two identical HDMI ports.
> 
> 
> 
> Epson's page has #1 port as the 2.2. I don't see where the 2nd HDMI is also 2.2 compatible.
> 
> https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56380.pdf
Click to expand...

So to where should I send my installation and consultation bill lol


----------



## BUman

skylarlove1999 said:


> So to where should I send my installation and consultation bill lol


LOL - thanks for the feedback from today.

They were able to use our previous long HDMI cable we had used for our original Epson 6030, evidently it was 4k compatible since Apple 4k TV worked w/ it thankfully so they didn't have to rewire it. The projector looks great at first glance. 

It's much quieter than our previous 6030, I had read reviews that it was loud but so far it's whisper quiet which was a pleasant surprise.

What settings are people using? Dynamic, Neutral, Cinema, etc? Trying to get a good feel before I go in and calibrate it. 
I'm not sure if it's the new projector or if it's the newer brighter bulb compared to our other projector but it does seem much brighter and crisper. Haven't done 4k yet, just sports and Marvel movie so we will see.

Any other initial setup tips would be great from anyone. Hoping this lasts a while. 

Thanks again


----------



## BUman

We've been using the projector for 1 day now. The projector started out being very quiet in several modes. The issue w/ the 4k enhancement on (the whole reason we bought this) is it causes a high pitched humming noise that is very distracting and annoying. If the movie is loud then you can't hear it, but normal noise level or watching TV and you can hear it the whole time.

I turned 4k enhancement off and it goes away but I'm not sure if it affects the picture that much and I know we won't be able to watch 4k w/out it on. 

Has anyone else had this issue? I'm going to return it and get the Sony if this can't be fixed, hopefully it's an easy fix.

The picture is fantastic so it will be frustrating if we have to return it. I've heard the Sony 4k projector is very good but not as bright.


----------



## Luminated67

BUman said:


> We've been using the projector for 1 day now. The projector started out being very quiet in several modes. The issue w/ the 4k enhancement on (the whole reason we bought this) is it causes a high pitched humming noise that is very distracting and annoying. If the movie is loud then you can't hear it, but normal noise level or watching TV and you can hear it the whole time.
> 
> I turned 4k enhancement off and it goes away but I'm not sure if it affects the picture that much and I know we won't be able to watch 4k w/out it on.
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? I'm going to return it and get the Sony if this can't be fixed, hopefully it's an easy fix.
> 
> The picture is fantastic so it will be frustrating if we have to return it. I've heard the Sony 4k projector is very good but not as bright.


It seems that either some machines are noisier than others or some people notice and are annoyed by the whine, no doubt it’s always present when on but on mine you will just about notice it when the scene is quiet and on ECO, as soon as you put the fan on Medium this is louder than the whine from the e-shift.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> We've been using the projector for 1 day now. The projector started out being very quiet in several modes. The issue w/ the 4k enhancement on (the whole reason we bought this) is it causes a high pitched humming noise that is very distracting and annoying. If the movie is loud then you can't hear it, but normal noise level or watching TV and you can hear it the whole time.
> 
> I turned 4k enhancement off and it goes away but I'm not sure if it affects the picture that much and I know we won't be able to watch 4k w/out it on.
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? I'm going to return it and get the Sony if this can't be fixed, hopefully it's an easy fix.
> 
> The picture is fantastic so it will be frustrating we have to return it. I've heard the Sony 4k projector is very good not as bright.


I wonder if the Shelf / box you have it in is exacerbating the noise . I'm not going to say it's the world's quietest sound from the projector but honestly if you have a sound system that's up to par you should really only hear the projector in really quiet scenes. It would improve the picture quality by giving you more brightness if you've moved it closer. I believe you have that option and would also I believe take the noise that is causing you the frustration away from your listening position. I know you had stated from an aesthetic standpoint you did not wish to move the projector. Obviously projectors are about trade-offs as it is with everything in life. Most quality projectors are not going to be whisper quiet that is just the reality. I don't really think the Sony is going to be all that much quieter. You would be giving up a tremendous amount of brightness which affects HDR significantly if you were to go with the Sony and the Sony black levels are just not where the Epson projectors are in my opinion either.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> We've been using the projector for 1 day now. The projector started out being very quiet in several modes. The issue w/ the 4k enhancement on (the whole reason we bought this) is it causes a high pitched humming noise that is very distracting and annoying. If the movie is loud then you can't hear it, but normal noise level or watching TV and you can hear it the whole time.
> 
> I turned 4k enhancement off and it goes away but I'm not sure if it affects the picture that much and I know we won't be able to watch 4k w/out it on.
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? I'm going to return it and get the Sony if this can't be fixed, hopefully it's an easy fix.
> 
> The picture is fantastic so it will be frustrating if we have to return it. I've heard the Sony 4k projector is very good not as bright.


Sony's least expensive 4K projector the 295ES, is still going to be considerably more than your 5050 and only throws 1500 lumens. 

Epson rates fan noise for the 5050 as a range from 20 decibels in ECO power setting to a max of 31 dB in High Power setting. Both the intake and exhaust vents are on the front of the projector. From a 5 foot distance below and in front of the projector (approximately simulating an 8-foot ceiling mount above and somewhat behind the viewer), Mid and ECO fan noise were barely audible in a quiet room and not perceptible over typical soundtracks. The High setting raised the volume and also the pitch, making it harder to mask and obvious in quiet moments. The High Altitude mode, which Epson recommends above 5,000 feet elevation, adds perhaps 2 to 3 dB to any given setting. If it's required along with the High Power mode, consider options for mounting the projector further away from viewers or isolating it.

Sony 295ES is rated at 26DB in low lamp. You will probably be operating in High lamp. Replacement lamp costs are about $200 more on the Sony 295ES than on the Epson 5050UB. I don't think the Sony is going to address your noise concerns.


----------



## misterg51

BUman said:


> We've been using the projector for 1 day now. The projector started out being very quiet in several modes. The issue w/ the 4k enhancement on (the whole reason we bought this) is it causes a high pitched humming noise that is very distracting and annoying. If the movie is loud then you can't hear it, but normal noise level or watching TV and you can hear it the whole time.
> 
> I turned 4k enhancement off and it goes away but I'm not sure if it affects the picture that much and I know we won't be able to watch 4k w/out it on.
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? I'm going to return it and get the Sony if this can't be fixed, hopefully it's an easy fix.
> 
> The picture is fantastic so it will be frustrating if we have to return it. I've heard the Sony 4k projector is very good but not as bright.


Turn Iris to off and run at medium or eco.


----------



## misterg51

misterg51 said:


> Turn Iris to off and run at medium or eco.


You may have a defective bulb unit or projector if it gets worse regardless.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

The Sony only achieves 91% of P3 when calibrated. Does not have as good of black levels and I believe it doesn’t have lens memory so the only advantage it has is native 4K the next true upgrade from the Epson is the NX-5 

My Epson hit 86% of P3 in Natural mode and did 95% of P3 with or calibration in Digital Cinema. If I didn’t have the subpar blacks I would be a happy camper right now. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## carmona

I just received my Epson 6050 projector. Would like to register it with Epson. Could anyone let me know locations of, or methods to access, the serial number of my unit. Thanks, in advance, for any help.


----------



## Dreathlock

The only thing holding me back buying the 5050 is the lack of [email protected] I wann to buy my Projector in august/september. 

Maybe epson will announce a FW update or a 5060 by then with the FI. Hopefully.


----------



## skylarlove1999

carmona said:


> I just received my Epson 6050 projector. Would like to register it with Epson. Could anyone let me know locations of, or methods to access, the serial number of my unit. Thanks, in advance, for any help.


There should be a sticker with the serial number on the box. Also on the projector.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Dreathlock said:


> The only thing holding me back buying the 5050 is the lack of [email protected] I wann to buy my Projector in august/september.
> 
> Maybe epson will announce a FW update or a 5060 by then with the FI. Hopefully.


Look for a projector announcement at Cedia in September 2019. Not going to be a 5060 . Think true 4K and at least double the price with FI on everything but 3D.


----------



## plain fan

Double the price of the 5050 or the 6050?


----------



## carmona

skylarlove1999 said:


> There should be a sticker with the serial number on the box. Also on the projector.


Thank you!


----------



## carmona

I have my new Epson 6050 set in Digital Cinema / Eco mode to watch standard blu ray and 4k content as well as streaming. 

If I want to watch a 3d blu ray, do I have to provide any special, new menu settings, or will the projector just automatically adjust to a default 3d mode of operation when it detects the 3d input signal? 

Thanks for any help.


----------



## skylarlove1999

carmona said:


> I have my new Epson 6050 set in Digital Cinema / Eco mode to watch standard blu ray and 4k content as well as streaming.
> 
> If I want to watch a 3d blu ray, do I have to provide any special, new menu settings, or will the projector just automatically adjust to a default 3d mode of operation when it detects the 3d input signal?
> 
> Thanks for any help.


 should be able to just put the Blu-ray in the player and the Epson will detect the 3D signal being sent to it


----------



## carmona

skylarlove1999 said:


> should be able to just put the Blu-ray in the player and the Epson will detect the 3D signal being sent to it


Thank you.

Can I assume that the projector will also shift into a higher lamp mode automatically....to display the increased brightness required for 3d viewing?


----------



## misterg51

carmona said:


> I have my new Epson 6050 set in Digital Cinema / Eco mode to watch standard blu ray and 4k content as well as streaming.
> 
> If I want to watch a 3d blu ray, do I have to provide any special, new menu settings, or will the projector just automatically adjust to a default 3d mode of operation when it detects the 3d input signal?
> 
> Thanks for any help.


Download the manual from the support pages, it answers most of your questions.


----------



## zenoran

Hey guys I have a few questions about Blu-ray players I’m trying to decide which one to get. I have read good things about the ub820 paired with this projector because it’s ability to tone map SDR and also get a bit brighter than traditional players but I’m wondering how that might compare to the newer x800m2?

I have the ub820 now I’m playing with and was also wondering what would technically be better on this projector to view Netflix and Amazon since it has those apps. Would viewing through the player be better than through AppleTV 4K? The ATV displays everything through HDR via the settings but I don’t think it’s adding any enhanced mapping. 

Last question regarding the ub820. For watching SDR content which is tone mapped to bt2020 which color mode is best? I’ve read the cinema modes are the only ones with wide color gamut but the brightness is cut in half. Would the ub820 be mapping to colors which can only be seen in these modes or is viewing in Natural going to produce sufficient color depth with the added brightness?


Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

carmona said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> should be able to just put the Blu-ray in the player and the Epson will detect the 3D signal being sent to it
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Can I assume that the projector will also shift into a higher lamp mode automatically....to display the increased brightness required for 3d viewing?
Click to expand...

Source content fed to the Epson will never change your lamp mode, color mode or image enhancements. When it detects HDR it will switch from SDR REC709 to BT2020 but it will not change to your preferred memory setting for viewing HDR or vice versa. So their is some room for improvement in that regard.


----------



## Spankey

Been awhile since I checked in. Just want to say that I’ve been using the Project Reviews settings with jaw dropping results. Loving every minute of this projector (5050ub)!


----------



## SadTVNoob

I tried the Project Review settings as well as Alaric's and I gotta say, Dynamic on High Lamp just looks so much more impressive to me. Watching Blue Planet II on Netflix natural settings vs dynamic, the natural settings look so dull and uninspired. Dynamic seems sharper and more vibrant, and more like a 92" OLED. The other settings reminded me of a 92" edge-lit Samsung or something. 

That said with all of these high settings I'll probably get like 2 weeks out of this lamp or something before it explodes, so there's that.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

So you do not like accurate colors. Lucky for you if that makes you happy I wouldn’t invest in a profession calibration you would be disappointed 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So you do not like accurate colors. Lucky for you if that makes you happy I wouldn’t invest in a profession calibration you would be disappointed
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Don't think he asked you for your opinion. I also use dynamic but on Eco and prefer it over natural or bright cinema.


----------



## misterg51

Spankey said:


> Been awhile since I checked in. Just want to say that I’ve been using the Project Reviews settings with jaw dropping results. Loving every minute of this projector (5050ub)!



Same here. Test material review: https://www.soundandvision.com/content/black-hawk-down


----------



## SadTVNoob

Nah, that's fair. Different people like different things. I can see what the appeal would be of the "author's intent" so to speak, I just happen to like more "poppy" video. No harm either way. Plus I like it now, but who knows next week


----------



## Spankey

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So you do not like accurate colors. Lucky for you if that makes you happy I wouldn’t invest in a profession calibration you would be disappointed
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've had all my main sets in my home professionally calibrated. I know full well what accurate colors are and do have more than one monitor to use as a reference. Alaric's settings are very good. The Projector Reviews settings, at least with screen and throw distance, in a totally light controlled environment are as good I can expect from an in home calibration.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Spankey said:


> CallingMrBenzo said:
> 
> 
> 
> So you do not like accurate colors. Lucky for you if that makes you happy I wouldn’t invest in a profession calibration you would be disappointed
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I've had all my main sets in my home professionally calibrated. I know full well what accurate colors are and do have more than one monitor to use as a reference. Alaric's settings are very good. The Projector Reviews settings, at least with screen and throw distance, in a totally light controlled environment are as good I can expect from an in home calibration.
Click to expand...

Honestly it is a really outrageous statement to state that generic settings for any projector would be as good as you can expect from an in home calibration from a professional. 

A professional takes accurate color measurements so that your contrast would be greatly improved which would improve almost all aspects of picture quality: black levels, depth. Shadow details, HDR, specular highlights, etc. 

Too many variables for generic settings to be accurate. Room conditions, seating distance, screen material, lamp brightness, out of the box color accuracy, etc. 

I am very grateful for those who have taken the time to post their settings. You may even be very happy with those settings but please don't mislead people into thinking those settings could be a suitable alternative to a professional calibration. It is just not a factual statement. 

A proper calibration performed by a professional is certainly the most accurate way to obtain the image the director intended the audience to see from the opening act to the last scene. 

Please do not take my statement personally. I hope you enjoy your projector for many years to come. Your statement could not go unanswered. Your statement does a great disservice to all the professional calibrators who spend countless hours insuring we view a movie as the director intended.


----------



## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> Honestly it is a really outrageous statement to state that generic settings for any projector would be as good as you can expect from an in home calibration from a professional.
> 
> A professional takes accurate color measurements so that your contrast would be greatly improved which would improve almost all aspects of picture quality: black levels, depth. Shadow details, HDR, specular highlights, etc.
> 
> Too many variables for generic settings to be accurate. Room conditions, seating distance, screen material, lamp brightness, out of the box color accuracy, etc.
> 
> I am very grateful for those who have taken the time to post their settings. You may even be very happy with those settings but please don't mislead people into thinking those settings could be a suitable alternative to a professional calibration. It is just not a factual statement.
> 
> A proper calibration performed by a professional is certainly the most accurate way to obtain the image the director intended the audience to see from the opening act to the last scene.
> 
> Please do not take my statement personally. I hope you enjoy your projector for many years to come. Your statement could not go unanswered. Your statement does a great disservice to all the professional calibrators who spend countless hours insuring we view a movie as the director intended.


Until your bulb ages. 

just messing around


----------



## Luminated67

SadTVNoob said:


> I tried the Project Review settings as well as Alaric's and I gotta say, Dynamic on High Lamp just looks so much more impressive to me. Watching Blue Planet II on Netflix natural settings vs dynamic, the natural settings look so dull and uninspired. Dynamic seems sharper and more vibrant, and more like a 92" OLED. The other settings reminded me of a 92" edge-lit Samsung or something.
> 
> That said with all of these high settings I'll probably get like 2 weeks out of this lamp or something before it explodes, so there's that.


The problem is that very few people ever get their equipment calibrated and this includes their regular TV be it a Plasma, LED or OLED of which I myself am guilty of. 

I think where we differ though is that I acknowledge that my TV isn't accurate and didn't want to keep watching inaccurate colours in a room I had spent time and money trying to make it as perfect an environment as possible for watching movies.

All I can say is that once your machines are properly calibrated you might not at first be won over by what you see because it's so different to what you are use to but the more you watch the more you notice the extra detail in the differing shades of colours etc that you were missing.

I agree that it isn't cheap and I would love for a pro calibrator to pitch in here regarding how often this process really needs to be done and if it require a from scratch calibration each time the bulb is replaced.


----------



## Alaric

SadTVNoob said:


> I tried the Project Review settings as well as Alaric's and I gotta say, Dynamic on High Lamp just looks so much more impressive to me. Watching Blue Planet II on Netflix natural settings vs dynamic, the natural settings look so dull and uninspired. Dynamic seems sharper and more vibrant, and more like a 92" OLED. The other settings reminded me of a 92" edge-lit Samsung or something.
> 
> 
> 
> That said with all of these high settings I'll probably get like 2 weeks out of this lamp or something before it explodes, so there's that.


Dynamic will be more vibrant, it's like a demo mode on TVs so when placed next to each other people buy them in shops etc.

Similar to flashy demo modes on cheap stereos, great for getting attention but not particularly accurate and actually very fatiguing over time.

If you watch something like the old DVD Essentials calibration disc it explains a lot of this stuff and has some content comparisons on why you should be aiming for accurate.
At the very least it will help get the brightness / contrast settings to be correct which should be done on any device and can be set with a couple of patterns by eye and that will stop crushing of shadows and highlights!

I went down the meter route years back as I like to be able to do things myself and the cost of a calibration pays for the meter, it does take a fair bit of learning and then time to do a calibration though, so for a lot of people I'd probably recommend the pro route, but it's another option! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



Luminated67 said:


> All I can say is that once your machines are properly calibrated you might not at first be won over by what you see because it's so different to what you are use to but the more you watch the more you notice the extra detail in the differing shades of colours etc that you were missing.



I agree whole heartily with this. Very well said I appreciate what I’m seeing more and more with every title I watch. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

rustolemite said:


> Don't think he asked you for your opinion. I also use dynamic but on Eco and prefer it over natural or bright cinema.


I don't get using the projector on ECO mode, so maybe I'm doing something wrong. On ECO mine looks slightly dark and washed out. It's perfect on High, and I leave it on Dynamic all the time as well. Haven't messed with the settings much past default and am very happy with it. I did try Alaric's and the Projector Review settings but they also looked too dark so I went back to defaults. Would love to get a professional calibration but having a hell of a time finding a qualified calibrator in south Jersey.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Reach out to the above mentioned people. They travel across the county. I had to wait about a month for Chad to come to Virginia from Ohio. 

hdtvbychadb.com. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

groggrog said:


> I don't get using the projector on ECO mode, so maybe I'm doing something wrong. On ECO mine looks slightly dark and washed out. It's perfect on High, and I leave it on Dynamic all the time as well. Haven't messed with the settings much past default and am very happy with it. I did try Alaric's and the Projector Review settings but they also looked too dark so I went back to defaults. Would love to get a professional calibration but having a hell of a time finding a qualified calibrator in south Jersey.


There might be some reasons for this like screen size, the gain of the screen, distance the projector is having to project from etc.

It could simply be the environment you are watching it in, light leaking in no matter how little has an affect on the image as does light reflection coming off light walls and ceiling. In these situations you will require more light.


----------



## groggrog

Luminated67 said:


> There might be some reasons for this like screen size, the gain of the screen, distance the projector is having to project from etc.
> 
> It could simply be the environment you are watching it in, light leaking in no matter how little has an affect on the image as does light reflection coming off light walls and ceiling. In these situations you will require more light.


My room actually has a lot of light coming in during the day so I don't watch in that room much during daylight since the screen looks very washed out. At night though it looks as close as I can imagine to a professional theater.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



groggrog said:


> My room actually has a lot of light coming in during the day so I don't watch in that room much during daylight since the screen looks very washed out. At night though it looks as close as I can imagine to a professional theater.




You would be surprised how much light reflects off the walls and ceiling. Unless you have black velvet covering all of those surfaces you most likely have some degree of light reflection onto the screen 

The front half of my theater has black sheets lining the walls. It made a huge difference compared to the lightly colored walls I had before but they are still reflective and I can see there is room for improvement. 

I went to a fabric store and got some blacks velvet. It’s night and day better than the black sheets however the pricing at a local store is extremely high considering how much material you need. I have ordered 40 years of velvet off amazon and am awaiting delivery $175 versus $50 for like 5 yards at my local fabric store 

I don’t know the best method to adhere it but mostly likely will use a staple gun. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Spankey

skylarlove1999 said:


> Honestly it is a really outrageous statement to state that generic settings for any projector would be as good as you can expect from an in home calibration from a professional.
> 
> A professional takes accurate color measurements so that your contrast would be greatly improved which would improve almost all aspects of picture quality: black levels, depth. Shadow details, HDR, specular highlights, etc.
> 
> Too many variables for generic settings to be accurate. Room conditions, seating distance, screen material, lamp brightness, out of the box color accuracy, etc.
> 
> I am very grateful for those who have taken the time to post their settings. You may even be very happy with those settings but please don't mislead people into thinking those settings could be a suitable alternative to a professional calibration. It is just not a factual statement.
> 
> A proper calibration performed by a professional is certainly the most accurate way to obtain the image the director intended the audience to see from the opening act to the last scene.
> 
> Please do not take my statement personally. I hope you enjoy your projector for many years to come. Your statement could not go unanswered. Your statement does a great disservice to all the professional calibrators who spend countless hours insuring we view a movie as the director intended.


"As good" is a pretty generic statement in itself. I don't believe I stated "as good". Of course every projector can be tweaked to ring every last ounce of image quality to make it the best it can be. That said, if you have a point of reference sometimes you hit a point of
"good enough" where the outlay in cash does not justify the results. 

I've had my sets calibrated by Chad B and Jeff Meier so I am well aware of the results that can be gained. My eyes are trained to the point now were I can see a poorly calibrated image from one that has been. I don't accept an image where my eyes 
give even the slightest bit of "that ain't right". If I come to that point over the next few months then I will reconsider spending the cash. As is right now....Good Enough is pretty Damn Good!


----------



## Luminated67

groggrog said:


> My room actually has a lot of light coming in during the day so I don't watch in that room much during daylight since the screen looks very washed out. At night though it looks as close as I can imagine to a professional theater.


You say that but you would be shocked how different black velour covering the walls and ceiling do to an image. If your walls and ceiling aren't a very dark matt paint you will be getting a lot of reflection firing back towards to screen.


----------



## rustolemite

groggrog said:


> I don't get using the projector on ECO mode, so maybe I'm doing something wrong. On ECO mine looks slightly dark and washed out. It's perfect on High, and I leave it on Dynamic all the time as well. Haven't messed with the settings much past default and am very happy with it. I did try Alaric's and the Projector Review settings but they also looked too dark so I went back to defaults. Would love to get a professional calibration but having a hell of a time finding a qualified calibrator in south Jersey.


Well for me my projector is right above my head only about 3ft to 4ft away and Eco mode work best for me when it comes to the fan noise, there are alot of times where I am only on the PC, which goes through the projector, and it's quiet in the room so the less fan noise the better.
I am using a SeymourAV XD 137" AT screen, for non HDR content I have no problems with brightness, on HDR I just adjust the brightness and have it save as a memory.
For me I like the picture I am getting without making all those changes which seem alot.


----------



## drober30

Lots of talk about calibration, I think before I spent money on a professional calibration, I would have to learn how to clean my glasses on a regular basis...lol

Years ago I bought a calibration DVD that was recommended on here and used it to calibrate my TV, like mentioned previously, it took a awhile to get use to the new picture but it did set everything the way it was supposed to be.

I know professionals can always do better but I think if I can get the picture tweaked to where I’m saying wow, that’s all that matters. It’s amazing how the majority of people think an ok picture is amazing. I can’t even believe the picture my in-laws are willing to watch, I will go over there and they will have there show tuned into an SD channel and I will cringed and they could care less!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Spankey said:


> CallingMrBenzo said:
> 
> 
> 
> So you do not like accurate colors. Lucky for you if that makes you happy I wouldn’t invest in a profession calibration you would be disappointed
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I've had all my main sets in my home professionally calibrated. I know full well what accurate colors are and do have more than one monitor to use as a reference. Alaric's settings are very good. The Projector Reviews settings, at least with screen and throw distance, in a totally light controlled environment are as good I can expect from an in home calibration.
Click to expand...

" The Projector Reviews settings, at least with screen and throw distance, in a totally light controlled environment are as good I can expect from an in home calibration." 

Sounds like you are trying to walk back your statement at this point. Thanks for your reply. I am sure if Chad B or Jeff Meier were actually standing in front of you, you would not have made the ridiculous statement you made above. 

You definitely said the Projector Review settings were as good as you could expect from an in home calibration. In your reply you stated you could tell using your eyes what a good calibration looks like. To a certain extent a trained eye can detect a bad picture from a better picture. What your eyes cannot do is detect accurate colors and a properly calibrated grayscale. You know this, if you would only admit it. 

Most people could care less about color accuracy. They actually prefer an overly bright image that is overly saturated and they don't mind missing out on shadow details and specular highlights. Most people are just trying to impress their friends who are not videophiles. Most people just aren't impressed with color accuracy. They don't appreciate the nuance in the various shading and contrast that can be achieved with a properly calibrated display. Nor do they care to pay the money for something they or their friends won't notice.

Sounds like you are in the middle ground. You have seen a properly calibrated display and can appreciate the difference it can make, but feel you can get close enough on your own by using settings that made someone else's projector achieve a good image. That is kind of like trying to see an answer on another person's test sheet and then using that answer on your test. You may not have gotten the complete answer.

You are using a professional calibrators settings by using Projector Reviews settings, albeit not ones that were meant for your specific projector. I do find that a bit ironic. 

Television displays are a little different when swapping in generic settings, as their is much more uniformity from one display to another. I would say in the case of television displays you are more likely to be able to use generic settings and get closer to accurate color production. Still not the same as calibration for your individual display but closer than you can achieve by doing the same thing with a projector. Just way too many variables with a projector. 

Really all that matters is your own satisfaction and it sounds like you are satisfied . I stand by my statement that settings designed for another projector are no substitute for a proper calibration of a projector. Most people do not have the equipment, skill and expertise to achieve the results a professional calibrator can.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> groggrog said:
> 
> 
> 
> My room actually has a lot of light coming in during the day so I don't watch in that room much during daylight since the screen looks very washed out. At night though it looks as close as I can imagine to a professional theater.
> 
> 
> 
> You say that but you would be shocked how different black velour covering the walls and ceiling do to an image. If your walls and ceiling aren't a very dark matt paint you will be getting a lot of reflection firing back towards to screen.
Click to expand...

Dark matte paint is no substitute for triple black velvet. Light reflection from the ceiling, side walls and the floor significantly degrades every aspect of picture quality. Best upgrade I ever made was covering my walls and ceiling in black velvet.


----------



## ckronengold

zenoran said:


> Hey guys I have a few questions about Blu-ray players I’m trying to decide which one to get. I have read good things about the ub820 paired with this projector because it’s ability to tone map SDR and also get a bit brighter than traditional players but I’m wondering how that might compare to the newer x800m2?


I've been spending some time lurking in the BluRay Player forums. There's even a "help me pick a player" thread. You should definitely head over there. Lots of people in the UB820 vs x800m2 camp (like me, plus the LX500 as well). Everyone has that "one thing" they need and that seems to be holding them back from pulling the trigger (just like here). 

check it out: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-blu-ray-players/


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> " The Projector Reviews settings, at least with screen and throw distance, in a totally light controlled environment are as good I can expect from an in home calibration."
> 
> Sounds like you are trying to walk back your statement at this point. Thanks for your reply. I am sure if Chad B or Jeff Meier were actually standing in front of you, you would not have made the ridiculous statement you made above.
> 
> You definitely said the Projector Review settings were as good as you could expect from an in home calibration. In your reply you stated you could tell using your eyes what a good calibration looks like. To a certain extent a trained eye can detect a bad picture from a better picture. What your eyes cannot do is detect accurate colors and a properly calibrated grayscale. You know this, if you would only admit it.
> 
> Most people could care less about color accuracy. They actually prefer an overly bright image that is overly saturated and they don't mind missing out on shadow details and specular highlights. Most people are just trying to impress their friends who are not videophiles. Most people just aren't impressed with color accuracy. They don't appreciate the nuance in the various shading and contrast that can be achieved with a properly calibrated display. Nor do they care to pay the money for something they or their friends won't notice.
> 
> Sounds like you are in the middle ground. You have seen a properly calibrated display and can appreciate the difference it can make, but feel you can get close enough on your own by using settings that made someone else's projector achieve a good image. That is kind of like trying to see an answer on another person's test sheet and then using that answer on your test. You may not have gotten the complete answer.
> 
> You are using a professional calibrators settings by using Projector Reviews settings, albeit not ones that were meant for your specific projector. I do find that a bit ironic.
> 
> Television displays are a little different when swapping in generic settings, as their is much more uniformity from one display to another. I would say in the case of television displays you are more likely to be able to use generic settings and get closer to accurate color production. Still not the same as calibration for your individual display but closer than you can achieve by doing the same thing with a projector. Just way too many variables with a projector.
> 
> Really all that matters is your own satisfaction and it sounds like you are satisfied . I stand by my statement that settings designed for another projector are no substitute for a proper calibration of a projector. Most people do not have the equipment, skill and expertise to achieve the results a professional calibrator can.




The one thing that bugs me about the projector central setting is that he says the projector was sent out for calibration. 

How do you calibrate anything for use in your room if it’s not done in your room on your screen with your conditions ?!?!? 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Spankey

skylarlove1999 said:


> " The Projector Reviews settings, at least with screen and throw distance, in a totally light controlled environment are as good I can expect from an in home calibration."
> 
> Sounds like you are trying to walk back your statement at this point. Thanks for your reply. I am sure if Chad B or Jeff Meier were actually standing in front of you, you would not have made the ridiculous statement you made above.
> 
> You definitely said the Projector Review settings were as good as you could expect from an in home calibration. In your reply you stated you could tell using your eyes what a good calibration looks like. To a certain extent a trained eye can detect a bad picture from a better picture. What your eyes cannot do is detect accurate colors and a properly calibrated grayscale. You know this, if you would only admit it.
> 
> Most people could care less about color accuracy. They actually prefer an overly bright image that is overly saturated and they don't mind missing out on shadow details and specular highlights. Most people are just trying to impress their friends who are not videophiles. Most people just aren't impressed with color accuracy. They don't appreciate the nuance in the various shading and contrast that can be achieved with a properly calibrated display. Nor do they care to pay the money for something they or their friends won't notice.
> 
> Sounds like you are in the middle ground. You have seen a properly calibrated display and can appreciate the difference it can make, but feel you can get close enough on your own by using settings that made someone else's projector achieve a good image. That is kind of like trying to see an answer on another person's test sheet and then using that answer on your test. You may not have gotten the complete answer.
> 
> You are using a professional calibrators settings by using Projector Reviews settings, albeit not ones that were meant for your specific projector. I do find that a bit ironic.
> 
> Television displays are a little different when swapping in generic settings, as their is much more uniformity from one display to another. I would say in the case of television displays you are more likely to be able to use generic settings and get closer to accurate color production. Still not the same as calibration for your individual display but closer than you can achieve by doing the same thing with a projector. Just way too many variables with a projector.
> 
> Really all that matters is your own satisfaction and it sounds like you are satisfied . I stand by my statement that settings designed for another projector are no substitute for a proper calibration of a projector. Most people do not have the equipment, skill and expertise to achieve the results a professional calibrator can.


I'm not trying to walk back anything. If clarification needed, then so be it. It is as good as I could hope to expect short of a calibration that may bring incremental changes from where I'm at now. Any changes would be just that. Incremental. 

I have never had published settings come close...take that back..I have with an OLED. If you came into my theater and I told you the projector was calibrated you would not have thought otherwise.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> " The Projector Reviews settings, at least with screen and throw distance, in a totally light controlled environment are as good I can expect from an in home calibration."
> 
> Sounds like you are trying to walk back your statement at this point. Thanks for your reply. I am sure if Chad B or Jeff Meier were actually standing in front of you, you would not have made the ridiculous statement you made above.
> 
> You definitely said the Projector Review settings were as good as you could expect from an in home calibration. In your reply you stated you could tell using your eyes what a good calibration looks like. To a certain extent a trained eye can detect a bad picture from a better picture. What your eyes cannot do is detect accurate colors and a properly calibrated grayscale. You know this, if you would only admit it.
> 
> Most people could care less about color accuracy. They actually prefer an overly bright image that is overly saturated and they don't mind missing out on shadow details and specular highlights. Most people are just trying to impress their friends who are not videophiles. Most people just aren't impressed with color accuracy. They don't appreciate the nuance in the various shading and contrast that can be achieved with a properly calibrated display. Nor do they care to pay the money for something they or their friends won't notice.
> 
> Sounds like you are in the middle ground. You have seen a properly calibrated display and can appreciate the difference it can make, but feel you can get close enough on your own by using settings that made someone else's projector achieve a good image. That is kind of like trying to see an answer on another person's test sheet and then using that answer on your test. You may not have gotten the complete answer.
> 
> You are using a professional calibrators settings by using Projector Reviews settings, albeit not ones that were meant for your specific projector. I do find that a bit ironic.
> 
> Television displays are a little different when swapping in generic settings, as their is much more uniformity from one display to another. I would say in the case of television displays you are more likely to be able to use generic settings and get closer to accurate color production. Still not the same as calibration for your individual display but closer than you can achieve by doing the same thing with a projector. Just way too many variables with a projector.
> 
> Really all that matters is your own satisfaction and it sounds like you are satisfied . I stand by my statement that settings designed for another projector are no substitute for a proper calibration of a projector. Most people do not have the equipment, skill and expertise to achieve the results a professional calibrator can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one thing that bugs me about the projector central setting is that he says the projector was sent out for calibration.
> 
> How do you calibrate anything for use in your room if it’s not done in your room on your screen with your conditions ?!?!?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have spoken to some people in the business and the only way they state that it would be acceptable is if you were using the same screen in almost identical room conditions i.e. seating distance throw distance ambient lighting etc. Then sending out the projector for calibration could achieve a color accurate display that throws an amazing image. 

Seymour AV has worked with JVC on the new true 4k projectors where if you buy a Seymour screen and a JVC 4K projector from Seymour they will calibrate the projector. Seems like JVC and Seymour would not do this if the achieved results were not fantastic.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Spankey said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> " The Projector Reviews settings, at least with screen and throw distance, in a totally light controlled environment are as good I can expect from an in home calibration."
> 
> Sounds like you are trying to walk back your statement at this point. Thanks for your reply. I am sure if Chad B or Jeff Meier were actually standing in front of you, you would not have made the ridiculous statement you made above.
> 
> You definitely said the Projector Review settings were as good as you could expect from an in home calibration. In your reply you stated you could tell using your eyes what a good calibration looks like. To a certain extent a trained eye can detect a bad picture from a better picture. What your eyes cannot do is detect accurate colors and a properly calibrated grayscale. You know this, if you would only admit it.
> 
> Most people could care less about color accuracy. They actually prefer an overly bright image that is overly saturated and they don't mind missing out on shadow details and specular highlights. Most people are just trying to impress their friends who are not videophiles. Most people just aren't impressed with color accuracy. They don't appreciate the nuance in the various shading and contrast that can be achieved with a properly calibrated display. Nor do they care to pay the money for something they or their friends won't notice.
> 
> Sounds like you are in the middle ground. You have seen a properly calibrated display and can appreciate the difference it can make, but feel you can get close enough on your own by using settings that made someone else's projector achieve a good image. That is kind of like trying to see an answer on another person's test sheet and then using that answer on your test. You may not have gotten the complete answer.
> 
> You are using a professional calibrators settings by using Projector Reviews settings, albeit not ones that were meant for your specific projector. I do find that a bit ironic.
> 
> Television displays are a little different when swapping in generic settings, as their is much more uniformity from one display to another. I would say in the case of television displays you are more likely to be able to use generic settings and get closer to accurate color production. Still not the same as calibration for your individual display but closer than you can achieve by doing the same thing with a projector. Just way too many variables with a projector.
> 
> Really all that matters is your own satisfaction and it sounds like you are satisfied . I stand by my statement that settings designed for another projector are no substitute for a proper calibration of a projector. Most people do not have the equipment, skill and expertise to achieve the results a professional calibrator can.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not trying to walk back anything. If clarification needed, then so be it. It is as good as I could hope to expect short of a calibration that may bring incremental changes from where I'm at now. Any changes would be just that. Incremental.
> 
> I have never had published settings come close...take that back..I have with an OLED. If you came into my theater and I told you the projector was calibrated you would not have thought otherwise.
Click to expand...

"I am not trying to walk back anything ."

Next sentence. " If clarification needed, then so be it. " I see you walking. 

"I have never had published settings come close..." And all the way back. LOL. 

I may have been a prosecutor in a another lifetime. LOL. I find an own man's words will often lead him to the truth far better than mine. 

All in good fun😁😉😄😄👍. 

I am pretty sure just admitted you have never had any published settings achieve the same results that a professional calibration does. It is just no longer worth it to you to achieve that level of accuracy. That I can understand. You can tell the subtle differences between a $100 bottle of wine and a really good $15 bottle of wine. You are just as satisfied with the $15 bottle, knowing it leaves you with more crackers and cheese with which to enjoy the wine. I get it. Trust me I get it.


----------



## luismanrara

I say if the guy is happy with his calibration, enjoy my friend, the more time you spend on the forum the less time you have to enjoy your projector. Any opinion expressed on this or any other forum about anything will be rebutted, no matter what it is, too much time on our hands, like me right now.


----------



## groggrog

skylarlove1999 said:


> Dark matte paint is no substitute for triple black velvet. Light reflection from the ceiling, side walls and the floor significantly degrades every aspect of picture quality. Best upgrade I ever made was covering my walls and ceiling in black velvet.


Since my projector room doubles as my family room, covering the walls in black velvet won't fly. I'm pretty happy with the picture during nighttime viewing.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly it is a really outrageous statement to state that generic settings for any projector would be as good as you can expect from an in home calibration from a professional.
> 
> A professional takes accurate color measurements so that your contrast would be greatly improved which would improve almost all aspects of picture quality: black levels, depth. Shadow details, HDR, specular highlights, etc.
> 
> Too many variables for generic settings to be accurate. Room conditions, seating distance, screen material, lamp brightness, out of the box color accuracy, etc.
> 
> I am very grateful for those who have taken the time to post their settings. You may even be very happy with those settings but please don't mislead people into thinking those settings could be a suitable alternative to a professional calibration. It is just not a factual statement.
> 
> A proper calibration performed by a professional is certainly the most accurate way to obtain the image the director intended the audience to see from the opening act to the last scene.
> 
> Please do not take my statement personally. I hope you enjoy your projector for many years to come. Your statement could not go unanswered. Your statement does a great disservice to all the professional calibrators who spend countless hours insuring we view a movie as the director intended.
> 
> 
> 
> Until your bulb ages. /forum/images/smilies/tongue.gif
> 
> just messing around
Click to expand...

That is true but speaking with some professional display calibrators they have stated that after the lamp replacement once the bulb has a couple hundred hours on it should be close to the image achieved with the initial calibration.

Will it be exact? No but it should be close enough that you would need tools to measure the differences. Because the projector stayed the same and the projector was the most important variable that was calibrated. The only time that would be different is it there was a significant measurable difference in brightness between the two lamps. 

Since there are way less deviations from the median in the internal components of a lamp, as compared to the internal components of a projector, by getting the projector calibrated you have controlled the most crucial variable.


----------



## jeahrens

BUman said:


> We've been using the projector for 1 day now. The projector started out being very quiet in several modes. The issue w/ the 4k enhancement on (the whole reason we bought this) is it causes a high pitched humming noise that is very distracting and annoying. If the movie is loud then you can't hear it, but normal noise level or watching TV and you can hear it the whole time.
> 
> I turned 4k enhancement off and it goes away but I'm not sure if it affects the picture that much and I know we won't be able to watch 4k w/out it on.
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? I'm going to return it and get the Sony if this can't be fixed, hopefully it's an easy fix.
> 
> The picture is fantastic so it will be frustrating if we have to return it. I've heard the Sony 4k projector is very good but not as bright.


You might be experiencing noise with the pixel shifting mechanism. Some previous generation JVC owners experienced this and called it "e-shift buzz". They describe it as sounding like an electric razor type buzz. If you are shelf mounted there is a small chance that rubber isolators may help. A unit exchange may cure it as well. I've owned and seen several e-shift JVC's and never heard one with the problem, so it's likely that Epson has unit to unit variance here as well. Otherwise a native 4K panel will obvious not be shifting anything (thus no noise), though as others have stated you may want to consider something other than Sony here.


----------



## skylarlove1999

groggrog said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dark matte paint is no substitute for triple black velvet. Light reflection from the ceiling, side walls and the floor significantly degrades every aspect of picture quality. Best upgrade I ever made was covering my walls and ceiling in black velvet.
> 
> 
> 
> Since my projector room doubles as my family room, covering the walls in black velvet won't fly. I'm pretty happy with the picture during nighttime viewing.
Click to expand...

This hobby is all about tradeoffs and compromises. I have made plenty of them in my theater. I am glad you are enjoying the 5050. It throws an amazing picture.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> BUman said:
> 
> 
> 
> We've been using the projector for 1 day now. The projector started out being very quiet in several modes. The issue w/ the 4k enhancement on (the whole reason we bought this) is it causes a high pitched humming noise that is very distracting and annoying. If the movie is loud then you can't hear it, but normal noise level or watching TV and you can hear it the whole time.
> 
> I turned 4k enhancement off and it goes away but I'm not sure if it affects the picture that much and I know we won't be able to watch 4k w/out it on.
> 
> Has anyone else had this issue? I'm going to return it and get the Sony if this can't be fixed, hopefully it's an easy fix.
> 
> The picture is fantastic so it will be frustrating if we have to return it. I've heard the Sony 4k projector is very good but not as bright.
> 
> 
> 
> You might be experiencing noise with the pixel shifting mechanism. Some previous generation JVC owners experienced this and called it "e-shift buzz". They describe it as sounding like an electric razor type buzz. If you are shelf mounted there is a small chance that rubber isolators may help. A unit exchange may cure it as well. I've owned and seen several e-shift JVC's and never heard one with the problem, so it's likely that Epson has unit to unit variance here as well. Otherwise a native 4K panel will obvious not be shifting anything (thus no noise), though as others have stated you may want to consider something other than Sony here.
Click to expand...

+1

I would try a rubber pad lining the bottom of the shelf to tamp down the sound. I would find a local store to demo a JVC NX5 before switching to Sony IMHO.


----------



## JonfromCB

Not every user is a "videophile"...but I get it...while not a videophile, I am an anal audiophile. There are many " living area with some ambient light" users just like me that just want to turn on a disc, cable, or streaming content and watch without ever touching anything other than the power and source buttons. I'm a "heavy user" typically running the PJ 4-5 hours per evening, 90%+ cable television. Aside from just not wanting to mess with settings and calibrations, professional calibrations just don't make any sense for me and my use. Considering channel/station signal variances, content quality, and ESPECIALLY, (as previously mentioned) bulb decay, professional calibration would be pursuit of a moving target with known and expected diminishing return for me any many others. Luckily for folks like myself, Cable source material, PJ technology, brightness, and picture quality have come along way since my first PJ 18 years ago. Today's light cannons with better and better factory calibrations make for an incredible out-of-the-box home theater experience in "non bat cave" living area HTs with some ambient light as compared to just a couple of years ago. I think it's great that some here are extracting every last ounce of contrast and color accuracy from their PJs. I also understand what an obsession in can become... one has to wonder how much the high testosterone calibration and room treatment posts and banter leaves folks in the PJ market thinking perhaps this PJ needs professional calibration and isn't what they're looking for?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

I think it’s great to hears everybody’s opinion on the topic of calibration! Theres such a diverse audience of users and intended uses for this unit ! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

Luminated67 said:


> I originally thought this was true for me too, I compared the settings from Projector Reviews with those of Gordon and everything was night and day different, on mine the PR settings in HRD the colour was quite different but it was actually the amount of visible detail was considerable but I have since re-checked the settings and realised I put some in wrong because of the way they put them out on their page and after fixing this the difference is a lot more subtle than first thought. So I retook the photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gordon’s calibrated settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Projector Reviews settings
> 
> *Skin Tone is still the biggest difference but all else is quite similar despite the two settings being a world apart.*





skylarlove1999 said:


> "I am not trying to walk back anything ."
> 
> Next sentence. " If clarification needed, then so be it. " I see you walking.
> 
> "I have never had published settings come close..." And all the way back. LOL.
> 
> I may have been a prosecutor in a another lifetime. LOL. I find an own man's words will often lead him to the truth far better than mine.
> 
> All in good fun😁😉😄😄👍.
> 
> I am pretty sure just admitted you have never had any published settings achieve the same results that a professional calibration does. It is just no longer worth it to you to achieve that level of accuracy. That I can understand. You can tell the subtle differences between a $100 bottle of wine and a really good $15 bottle of wine. You are just as satisfied with the $15 bottle, knowing it leaves you with more crackers and cheese with which to enjoy the wine. I get it. Trust me I get it.



Interesting that it seems like in some cases, users find posted settings not all that much different than their pro calibrated settings.


----------



## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> That is true but speaking with some professional display calibrators they have stated that after the lamp replacement once the bulb has a couple hundred hours on it should be close to the image achieved with the initial calibration.
> 
> Will it be exact? No but it should be close enough that you would need tools to measure the differences. Because the projector stayed the same and the projector was the most important variable that was calibrated. The only time that would be different is it there was a significant measurable difference in brightness between the two lamps.
> 
> Since there are way less deviations from the median in the internal components of a lamp, as compared to the internal components of a projector, by getting the projector calibrated you have controlled the most crucial variable.



I'm talking about the life of the bulb though. For the first couple hundred hours you're gonna be off, and then every hour afterwards is a slow road to more offness. To some of us who have a budget, and when published settings are pretty decent, it's just not worth the cost to get a pro calibration.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JonfromCB said:


> Not every user is a "videophile"...but I get it...while not a videophile, I am an anal audiophile. There are many " living area with some ambient light" users just like me that just want to turn on a disc, cable, or streaming content and watch without ever touching anything other than the power and source buttons. I'm a "heavy user" typically running the PJ 4-5 hours per evening, 90%+ cable television. Aside from just not wanting to mess with settings and calibrations, professional calibrations just don't make any sense for me and my use. Considering channel/station signal variances, content quality, and ESPECIALLY, (as previously mentioned) bulb decay, professional calibration would be pursuit of a moving target with known and expected diminishing return for me any many others. Luckily for folks like myself, Cable source material, PJ technology, brightness, and picture quality have come along way since my first PJ 18 years ago. Today's light cannons with better and better factory calibrations make for an incredible out-of-the-box home theater experience in "non bat cave" living area HTs with some ambient light as compared to just a couple of years ago. I think it's great that some here are extracting every last ounce of contrast and color accuracy from their PJs. I also understand what an obsession in can become... one has to wonder how much the high testosterone calibration and room treatment posts and banter leaves folks in the PJ market thinking perhaps this PJ needs professional calibration and isn't what they're looking for?


I appreciate that feedback. You are correct that out of the box the Epson 5050ub and 6050 throw an amazing image. I would hate for someone to think that you need a professional calibration to enjoy these projectors because you don't.

90% of people would be amazed with the performance straight out of the box. Another 9% with settings posted in this forum. I was really speaking to the 1% of people buying this projector who are budget videophiles. LOL. 

This projector still hits a fantastic price to performance value even for obsessed videophiles. Sorry for the tangent. Everyone should go back to enjoying their projectors. LOL. Especially me.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That is true but speaking with some professional display calibrators they have stated that after the lamp replacement once the bulb has a couple hundred hours on it should be close to the image achieved with the initial calibration.
> 
> Will it be exact? No but it should be close enough that you would need tools to measure the differences. Because the projector stayed the same and the projector was the most important variable that was calibrated. The only time that would be different is it there was a significant measurable difference in brightness between the two lamps.
> 
> Since there are way less deviations from the median in the internal components of a lamp, as compared to the internal components of a projector, by getting the projector calibrated you have controlled the most crucial variable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm talking about the life of the bulb though. For the first couple hundred hours you're gonna be off, and then every hour afterwards is a slow road to more offness. To some of us who have a budget, and when published settings are pretty decent, it's just not worth the cost to get a pro calibration.
Click to expand...

I definitely hear you on that totally makes sense we all have to spend money where we get our best bang for the buck.


----------



## BUman

Viche said:


> Interesting that it seems like in some cases, users find posted settings not all that much different than their pro calibrated settings.


What settings did you and Illuminate use? The first pic shows a lot more color to me.


----------



## Viche

BUman said:


> What settings did you and Illuminate use? The first pic shows a lot more color to me.



I don't own the projector. The first image is apparently what his calibrator achieved. Second is what is on the Projector Central website. Not sure how much I would trust the photos vs what he said.


----------



## jbcain

So I finally upgrade my Epson 5010e to the new 5050ub. The picture is absolutely better across the board.

The odd issue I'm having is when using the htpc, i have to underscan the left right fitment to 80% (then zoom the projector in) to get ride of the very little bit of blackspace at the top and bottom of the picture. screen is 16x9 and I've tried every resolution from 1920x1080 to 4k. 

I never had this issue with my 5010e, it filled the whole 16x9 screen with nothing special done.

Am I missing something?


----------



## SuperMiguel

Does using lens shift on this projector affect the quality of the image? so if i mount the projector off Center? and need to shift image to the right a bit


----------



## ckronengold

SuperMiguel said:


> Does using lens shift on this projector affect the quality of the image? so if i mount the projector off Center? and need to shift image to the right a bit


No complaints from me using lens shift. It shouldn't affect the image quality. Do what ya gotta do.


----------



## Luminated67

Viche said:


> Interesting that it seems like in some cases, users find posted settings not all that much different than their pro calibrated settings.


On this single photo they do appear close, apart from the skin tone which I said but the longer you compare both, going back and forth with moving picture you quickly realise there’s no substitute for a professional calibration. Don’t get me wrong if you don’t want to shell out for a proper calibration (let’s face it some do charge quite a bit) these online settings are better than out of the box.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> On this single photo they do appear close, apart from the skin tone which I said but the long you compare both you quickly realise there’s no substitute for a professional calibration. Don’t get me wrong if you don’t want to shell out for a proper calibration (let’s face it some do charge quite a bit) these online settings are better than out of the box.



Do you recall what your on/off contrast was when you had yours calibrated. My replacement unit arrived today and will inbox tonight. The only published review I can find of these newer units that discuss / measure contrast is passion home cinema

That had the unit in natural mode at 3600:1 and close to 6k:1 in dynamic. 

Again Chad said the lowest of the 5040’s he calibrated was 6,000:1 and saw as high as 8,000:1 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Do you recall what your on/off contrast was when you had yours calibrated. My replacement unit arrived today and will inbox tonight. The only published review I can find of these newer units that discuss / measure contrast is passion home cinema
> 
> That had the unit in natural mode at 3600:1 and close to 6k:1 in dynamic.
> 
> Again Chad said the lowest of the 5040’s he calibrated was 6,000:1 and saw as high as 8,000:1
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can’t recall the exact figure but it was in the 8K mark.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Oh, I think you already said that. I need to ask Alaric 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

So my new unit arrived and there is a red blob on the right side of the screen. That’s just my luck. I noticed the lens cover was not fully closed when I opened it but didn’t think anything of it until now. I’ve been on hold with Epson with 45 minutes 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So my new unit arrived and there is a red blob on the right side of the screen. That’s just my luck. I noticed the lens cover was not fully closed when I opened it but didn’t think anything of it until now. I’ve been on hold with Epson with 45 minutes
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Let me know if you need any assistance. PM me.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So my new unit arrived and there is a red blob on the right side of the screen. That’s just my luck. I noticed the lens cover was not fully closed when I opened it but didn’t think anything of it until now. I’ve been on hold with Epson with 45 minutes
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This would be your third 5050 correct?


----------



## plain fan

I'll go ahead and date myself with how long I've been enjoying this hobby. Years ago, when I had a CRT projector, the Electrohome Marquee brand offered an add on system that consisted of a camera and some more electronics that would continuously adjust the convergence of the projector. All CRT projectors convergence drift with time and temperature so this would keep it correct. It makes me wonder what it would cost a manufacturer to have a similar setup for bulb based projectors that would continuously adjust the settings to ensure that the image was accurate as the bulb aged. Granted eventually it would be time for a new bulb, but it would keep things looking good for a little while. With a little work it might even be able to automatically calibrate a known image to the correct spec, up to a point, regardless of the environment.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> This would be your third 5050 correct?




Yes, this would have been. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This would be your third 5050 correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, this would have been.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Did Epson get you all squared away?


----------



## drober30

skylarlove1999 said:


> I appreciate that feedback. You are correct that out of the box the Epson 5050ub and 6050 throw an amazing image. I would hate for someone to think that you need a professional calibration to enjoy these projectors because you don't.
> 
> 90% of people would be amazed with the performance straight out of the box. Another 9% with settings posted in this forum. I was really speaking to the 1% of people buying this projector who are budget videophiles. LOL.
> 
> This projector still hits a fantastic price to performance value even for obsessed videophiles. Sorry for the tangent. Everyone should go back to enjoying their projectors. LOL. Especially me.


This is perfectly stated!


----------



## ckronengold

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So my new unit arrived and there is a red blob on the right side of the screen. That’s just my luck. I noticed the lens cover was not fully closed when I opened it but didn’t think anything of it until now. I’ve been on hold with Epson with 45 minutes
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


None of mine (of 3) came with the lens cap fully closed. None came with a back panel over the inputs either. Not a big deal on that, except that the manual said there was one. Irks me. 

If you are going to have them send you another one, be sure to ask them to have Quality Control check it before they send it. I spoke with a guy named Courtney who was very helpful.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

ckronengold said:


> None of mine (of 3) came with the lens cap fully closed. None came with a back panel over the inputs either. Not a big deal on that, except that the manual said there was one. Irks me.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are going to have them send you another one, be sure to ask them to have Quality Control check it before they send it. I spoke with a guy named Courtney who was very helpful.




I will not take another 5050 at this point. There are two things I would consider but I am waiting to hear back from Epson. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

I can’t speak for Epson’s Customer Service in the US but if my experience of them here in the UK is anything to go by they are second to none. 

When you consider just how easy it is in the US to get something refunded or replaced you would have thought they would be bending over backwards to get it right first time never mind third time round.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> I can’t speak for Epson’s Customer Service in the US but if my experience of them here in the UK is anything to go by they are second to none.
> 
> 
> 
> When you consider just how easy it is in the US to get something refunded or replaced you would have thought they would be bending over backwards to get it right first time never mind third time round.




They do have excellent customer service indeed. I recall when I had to send my Marantz out for repairs 6 months after purchase. That was headache and my theater was down for a month ! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

When I try to stream in 4k HDR from YouTube, the signal rarely comes through as 4K or HDR. Rather, it comes through as SDR. Sometimes it does come through in 4K and looks spectacular, but most of the time it only comes through as SDR. What gives?

All my other 4K or HDR streaming is working fine (Netflix, Amazon Prime). Why is YouTube giving me trouble?


----------



## soundwave_rider

I have been trying to find the lumen output of the 6050 on other modes than high to see what gain screen I should be looking at but can't find anything online. Has anyone found this info? Has anyone who had their projectors calibrated been told what the lumen output was on various modes?


----------



## robl2

dr bill said:


> When I try to stream in 4k HDR from YouTube, the signal rarely comes through as 4K or HDR. Rather, it comes through as SDR. Sometimes it does come through in 4K and looks spectacular, but most of the time it only comes through as SDR. What gives?
> 
> All my other 4K or HDR streaming is working fine (Netflix, Amazon Prime). Why is YouTube giving me trouble?


You might want say what device you're using to stream and how it's connecting to the PJ (and which AV receiver is in-between, if any).


----------



## dr bill

robl2 said:


> You might want say what device you're using to stream and how it's connecting to the PJ (and which AV receiver is in-between, if any).


Good points...

Streaming from the Sony UBP-X800 4K Blu-ray player, connected to my new Denon AVRX3400H, outputting to the 5050. Same device will stream 4K from Netflix and Prime, just rarely from YouTube. That's what puzzles me.


----------



## skylarlove1999

soundwave_rider said:


> I have been trying to find the lumen output of the 6050 on other modes than high to see what gain screen I should be looking at but can't find anything online. Has anyone found this info? Has anyone who had their projectors calibrated been told what the lumen output was on various modes?


Once you get north of 2200 lumens from a projector then really your room has more impact on your screen choice and subsequent viewing experience then the light output from the projector. At 2600 lumens before calibration the projector will not be the weak link in your pursuit of a fantastic HDR experience. I have a blacked out velvet theater with MLP at 13.5 ft and projector mounted on the ceiling 16 ft back. HDR looks amazing. 120 inch non-AT 16x9 Seymour Glacier White 1.3 gain screen.


----------



## Luminated67

dr bill said:


> Good points...
> 
> Streaming from the Sony UBP-X800 4K Blu-ray player, connected to my new Denon AVRX3400H, outputting to the 5050. Same device will stream 4K from Netflix and Prime, just rarely from YouTube. That's what puzzles me.


What’s your download speed, for whatever reason Netflix seems to be best at keeping the image perfect with the least speed, next Amazon and then YouTube. If your speed it less than 20Mbs and other people in the house are also streaming then you might be having issues.


----------



## soundwave_rider

skylarlove1999 said:


> Once you get north of 2200 lumens from a projector then really your room has more impact on your screen choice and subsequent viewing experience then the light output from the projector. At 2600 lumens before calibration the projector will not be the weak link in your pursuit of a fantastic HDR experience. I have a blacked out velvet theater with MLP at 13.5 ft and projector mounted on the ceiling 16 ft back. HDR looks amazing. 120 inch non-AT 16x9 Seymour Glacier White 1.3 gain screen.


Thank you for the input. I am just starting the process of building a false wall which will be covered in black velvet everywhere except the AT screen, I am now leaning towards the seymour center stage XD because of the extra gain versus a DIY spandex screen. My seating distance will be similar at around 12' with the project around 16' throwing a 140" 2.35:1 screen (equal in height to a 110' 16x9). I plan on painting the whole room a dark flat color and adding additional black velvet on most of the reflective walls. 

This thread has been crazy helpful with choosing a solid first projector. :grin:


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> I appreciate that feedback. You are correct that out of the box the Epson 5050ub and 6050 throw an amazing image. I would hate for someone to think that you need a professional calibration to enjoy these projectors because you don't.
> 
> 90% of people would be amazed with the performance straight out of the box. Another 9% with settings posted in this forum. I was really speaking to the 1% of people buying this projector who are budget videophiles. LOL.
> 
> This projector still hits a fantastic price to performance value even for obsessed videophiles. Sorry for the tangent. Everyone should go back to enjoying their projectors. LOL. Especially me.


This is very true, the vast majority of people will be satisfied by its out of box settings especially Natural and Digital Cinema. When I got mine I put in my trusty calibration disc and adjusted the contrast and brightness to what it suggested..... imagine my shock when Gordon put both these two settings back to 50/50 and said these along with colour and tint need no adjusting as these are spot on right out of the box. What a professional calibration does (well my take on it) is fine tune an already well calibrated machine.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Once you get north of 2200 lumens from a projector then really your room has more impact on your screen choice and subsequent viewing experience then the light output from the projector. At 2600 lumens before calibration the projector will not be the weak link in your pursuit of a fantastic HDR experience. I have a blacked out velvet theater with MLP at 13.5 ft and projector mounted on the ceiling 16 ft back. HDR looks amazing. 120 inch non-AT 16x9 Seymour Glacier White 1.3 gain screen.


What’s your iris closed down to?


----------



## misterg51

Luminated67 said:


> This is very true, the vast majority of people will be satisfied by its out of box settings especially Natural and Digital Cinema. When I got mine I put in my trusty calibration disc and adjusted the contrast and brightness to what it suggested..... imagine my shock when Gordon put both these two settings back to 50/50 and said these along with colour and tint need no adjusting as these are spot on right out of the box. What a professional calibration does (well my take on it) is fine tune an already well calibrated machine.



All this pixel peeping has made me decide to wait until I replace my screen and mount before I tweak (calibrate) mine. I moved the brightness back to 50 from 60 on Digital Cinema settings from Projector Reviews. Out of the box is correct. Why did I even notice it? I was A/B testing my long run of Audioquest Chocolate in HDMI 1 vs. the $59 optical HDMI cable I bought on Amazon in HDMI 2. At first the optical appeared sharper and had less contrast, but then using it for an hour, the two were almost identical. What this tells me is that the sources and the wire connecting them to my AV7704 are more important. No plans of upgrading my Oppo 205 as the 5050 HDR slider does all I need. Time to watch content for this guy. Peace and Love to all.


----------



## cmondfrans

*mount*

I tried searching and could not find an answer (apologies if I missed it). I am looking for a mount that i can hang 90 degrees from a beam running across the ceiling. I used this one before but it is too small for the 5050:
amazon (dot) com/gp/product/B00892RUTA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/url]

I found this one on ebay which looks like it could work but it won't be shipped for over 2 weeks and my wife wants the projector off the dining room table asap:
ebay (dot) com/itm/Projector-Ceiling-Mount-for-Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB-5050UBe-Pro-Cinema-6050UB/392274655142?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D58646%26meid%3D250dd618d5fc492482a614d5a69828eb%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D293042574672%26itm%3D392274655142&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219[/url]

Any suggestions? Looking for something that does the job (don't need high end and am okay if install is a bit more difficult)--thank you!


----------



## skylarlove1999

cmondfrans said:


> I tried searching and could not find an answer (apologies if I missed it). I am looking for a mount that i can hang 90 degrees from a beam running across the ceiling. I used this one before but it is too small for the 5050:
> amazon (dot) com/gp/product/B00892RUTA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/url]
> 
> I found this one on ebay which looks like it could work but it won't be shipped for over 2 weeks and my wife wants the projector off the dining room table asap:
> ebay (dot) com/itm/Projector-Ceiling-Mount-for-Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB-5050UBe-Pro-Cinema-6050UB/392274655142?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D58646%26meid%3D250dd618d5fc492482a614d5a69828eb%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D293042574672%26itm%3D392274655142&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219[/url]
> 
> Any suggestions? Looking for something that does the job (don't need high end and am okay if install is a bit more difficult)--thank you!


Your link doesn't work.


----------



## gene4ht

skylarlove1999 said:


> Your link doesn't work.


Something strange is occurring with your “s” key.


----------



## skylarlove1999

gene4ht said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your link doesn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> Something strange is occurring with your “s” key.
Click to expand...

What do you mean? SSssSss. I am on my phone. Seems fine to me. Can you please take a screen shot and post it.


----------



## gene4ht

skylarlove1999 said:


> What do you mean? SSssSss. I am on my phone. Seems fine to me. Can you please take a screen shot and post it.


 Quote:
Originally Posted by *gene4ht*  
_ Quote:
Originally Posted by *skylarlove1999*  
Your link doesn't work.

Something strange is occurring with your “s” key._

What do you mean? SSssSss. I am on my phone. Seems fine to me. Can you please take a screen shot and post it.


----------



## skylarlove1999

gene4ht said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your link doesn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> Something strange is occurring with your “s” key.
Click to expand...

Still don't understand what you are talking about?


----------



## skylarlove1999

gene4ht said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your link doesn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> Something strange is occurring with your “s” key.
Click to expand...

Can anyone else see what Gene is talking about?


----------



## Ladeback

skylarlove1999 said:


> Can anyone else see what Gene is talking about?


it looks like this to us. Numbers are mixed with letters.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Ladeback said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone else see what Gene is talking about?
> 
> 
> 
> it looks like this to us. Numbers are mixed with letters.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the screenshot. How about now?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Guys 

Download Tapatalk if you want to post from a mobile device. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Guys
> 
> Download Tapatalk if you want to post from a mobile device.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the idea I am trying right now.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

Trying to hook up a Apple 4K tv and it keeps saying my 5050 doesn't support HDR, I can get HDR through my shield and 4k br player, anybody else have this problem.
Ready to throw this thing out in the street and stick to my shield.

Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rustolemite said:


> Trying to hook up a Apple 4K tv and it keeps saying my 5050 doesn't support HDR, I can get HDR through my shield and 4k br player, anybody else have this problem.
> 
> Ready to throw this thing out in the street and stick to my shield.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Try running the A4KTV directly to the projector using the same cable. See if you get all the checkboxes .

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> gene4ht said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your link doesn't work.
> 
> 
> 
> Something strange is occurring with your “s” key.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Still don't understand what you are talking about?
Click to expand...

Does this sentence look normal?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Ladeback said:


> it looks like this to us. Numbers are mixed with letters.


My Samsung S9 phone on the Verizon network updated to Advanced messaging last night and now it doesn't really play nicely it appears with AVS forum. So I am now using Tapatalk and I believe those posts were correctly I'm writing with it right now

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

Kelvin1000 said:


> It’s strange because I still can’t do frame interpolation and e-shift simultaneously...


I think I got to the bottom of this. It only works with both on for 24Hz content. Fine for movies, but would have been nice for it to work with 50/60Hz for sports broadcasts. Probably a lack of puff in the processor...


----------



## Ladeback

skylarlove1999 said:


> My Samsung S9 phone on the Verizon network updated to Advanced messaging last night and now it doesn't really play nicely it appears with AVS forum. So I am now using Tapatalk and I believe those posts were correctly I'm writing with it right now
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


It's also easier to post photos on Taptalk.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Ladeback said:


> It's also easier to post photos on Taptalk.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


That is true but I can't figure out how to copy and paste the URL for anything LOL I am not tech savvy when it comes to my phone.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

sddawson said:


> I think I got to the bottom of this. It only works with both on for 24Hz content. Fine for movies, but would have been nice for it to work with 50/60Hz for sports broadcasts. Probably a lack of puff in the processor...


Turn Match Dynamic Range or Match Frame Rate on or off

Go to Settings > Video and Audio > Match Content, then choose from the following:

Match Dynamic Range: Turn on to have Apple TV 4K match its output to the original dynamic range of content that you’re watching.

Match Frame Rate: Turn on to have Apple TV 4K or Apple TV HD match its refresh rate to the original frame rate of content. This applies to content that's mastered at different frame rates, for example 24fps film-based content or other international content.2

If you turn on either of these settings, Apple TV will attempt to automatically determine which dynamic ranges or frame rates your television supports.



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

skylarlove1999 said:


> Turn Match Dynamic Range or Match Frame Rate on or off


I think you might be responding to the wrong post. I was talking about the circumstances under which you can have 4K enhancement and frame interpolation turned on on the projector at the same time.


----------



## Ishmam Murshed

*EPSON 5050UB Apple TV 4K Issue*

Hey guys, having an issue with getting 4k to work on my apple tv with my epson 5050ub. I've connected it all up using HDMI 2.0as via port 1. However, in settings for apple TV it only goes up to 1080p 60Hz, and not 4k. Was wondering if i could get any help with this.

Cheers


----------



## Ishmam Murshed

Hey all, having trouble with 4k on my apple tv 4k with the 5050ub. In the settings for apple tv, there isnt a 4k option, the best option is 1080p. Is this intentional due to the 1080p native res, or should there be an option in the settings for 4k.


----------



## misterg51

Ishmam Murshed said:


> Hey all, having trouble with 4k on my apple tv 4k with the 5050ub. In the settings for apple tv, there isnt a 4k option, the best option is 1080p. Is this intentional due to the 1080p native res, or should there be an option in the settings for 4k.


Depends what you have it plugged into. I have to set my AV7704 HDMI to extended before it will pass through correctly. EDID on the 5050 etc. Apple TV has to see it offering 4K...


----------



## Ishmam Murshed

misterg51 said:


> Depends what you have it plugged into. I have to set my AV7704 HDMI to extended before it will pass through correctly. EDID on the 5050 etc. Apple TV has to see it offering 4K...


How did you turn the amp to extended, I have a SR6013 from marantz, im sure that this is also sufficient enough.


----------



## Luminated67

Ishmam Murshed said:


> How did you turn the amp to extended, I have a SR6013 from marantz, im sure that this is also sufficient enough.


It will be the same as my Denon was, basically go to the menu on the amp, select VIDEO and then select 4K SIGNAL FORMAT, in there you will see the setting to switch between standard and extended.


----------



## Ishmam Murshed

Luminated67 said:


> It will be the same as my Denon was, basically go to the menu on the amp, select VIDEO and then select 4K SIGNAL FORMAT, in there you will see the setting to switch between standard and extended.


I changed it to enhanced, and changed the EDID on the 5050 to enhanced aswell, but still no 4k option on apple tv. Any other amp settings, I had an installer do this setup, and im rather new to this stuff. Any help is appreciated, thanks .


----------



## skylarlove1999

Ishmam Murshed said:


> I changed it to enhanced, and changed the EDID on the 5050 to enhanced aswell, but still no 4k option on apple tv. Any other amp settings, I had an installer do this setup, and im rather new to this stuff. Any help is appreciated, thanks .


Turn Match Dynamic Range or Match Frame Rate on or off

Go to Settings > Video and Audio > Match Content, then choose from the following:

Match Dynamic Range: Turn on to have Apple TV 4K match its output to the original dynamic range of content that you’re watching.

Match Frame Rate: Turn on to have Apple TV 4K or Apple TV HD match its refresh rate to the original frame rate of content. This applies to content that's mastered at different frame rates, for example 24fps film-based content or other international content.2

If you turn on either of these settings, Apple TV will attempt to automatically determine which dynamic ranges or frame rates your television supports. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Ishmam Murshed

skylarlove1999 said:


> Turn Match Dynamic Range or Match Frame Rate on or off
> 
> Go to Settings > Video and Audio > Match Content, then choose from the following:
> 
> Match Dynamic Range: Turn on to have Apple TV 4K match its output to the original dynamic range of content that you’re watching.
> 
> Match Frame Rate: Turn on to have Apple TV 4K or Apple TV HD match its refresh rate to the original frame rate of content. This applies to content that's mastered at different frame rates, for example 24fps film-based content or other international content.2
> 
> If you turn on either of these settings, Apple TV will attempt to automatically determine which dynamic ranges or frame rates your television supports.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Ive put both those settings on, changed both EDID on my amp+ projector to expanded, put my amp on play-through for the projector. Anything else i can try??


----------



## skylarlove1999

Ishmam Murshed said:


> Ive put both those settings on, changed both EDID on my amp+ projector to expanded, put my amp on play-through for the projector. Anything else i can try??


When you connected the A4KTV directly to the projector does the A4KTV display 4K 60HZ HDR? Have you tried running your setup with different cables? Are you using Fiber optic or copper HDMI cables? Have you tried the same exact setup using a 4K television in the chain in place of your projector? Honestly A4KTV historically has these issues. They made some updates to the latest model that were supposed to have addressed these shortcomings. Sorry I know it is incredibly frustrating. Try turning the match frame rate off. Is there a way to force 4k at 60hz?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Ishmam Murshed

skylarlove1999 said:


> When you connected the A4KTV directly to the projector does the A4KTV display 4K 60HZ HDR? Have you tried running your setup with different cables? Are you using Fiber optic or copper HDMI cables? Have you tried the same exact setup using a 4K television in the chain in place of your projector? Honestly A4KTV historically has these issues. They made some updates to the latest model that were supposed to have addressed these shortcomings. Sorry I know it is incredibly frustrating. Try turning the match frame rate off. Is there a way to force 4k at 60hz?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah, its kinda of annoying. I might try switch from apple tv to another streaming device. I'll have another chat to my installer. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## zenoran

Ishmam Murshed said:


> Yeah, its kinda of annoying. I might try switch from apple tv to another streaming device. I'll have another chat to my installer. Thanks again for the help.




Do you have anything plugged in monitor 2?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Ishmam Murshed said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> When you connected the A4KTV directly to the projector does the A4KTV display 4K 60HZ HDR? Have you tried running your setup with different cables? Are you using Fiber optic or copper HDMI cables? Have you tried the same exact setup using a 4K television in the chain in place of your projector? Honestly A4KTV historically has these issues. They made some updates to the latest model that were supposed to have addressed these shortcomings. Sorry I know it is incredibly frustrating. Try turning the match frame rate off. Is there a way to force 4k at 60hz?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, its kinda of annoying. I might try switch from apple tv to another streaming device. I'll have another chat to my installer. Thanks again for the help.
Click to expand...

I have the Epson 6050 with a Denon 6500 and a Roku Ultra and I don't have any problems


----------



## skylarlove1999

zenoran said:


> Do you have anything plugged in monitor 2?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have the Epson 6050 paired with a Denon 6500 receiver and a Roku Ultra player and I have no issues

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## LIPLASMA

*Blu ray Player*

I was looking to buy a new 4k player to go along with my 6050UB and wanted to see if any of you have used the Panasonic DP-UB820 with the projector? if so did you see a noticeable difference using the players HDR tone mapping vs the internal Epson tone mapping? I know its all the rage on the JVC's with its tone mapping.


----------



## misterg51

Luminated67 said:


> This is very true, the vast majority of people will be satisfied by its out of box settings especially Natural and Digital Cinema. When I got mine I put in my trusty calibration disc and adjusted the contrast and brightness to what it suggested..... imagine my shock when Gordon put both these two settings back to 50/50 and said these along with colour and tint need no adjusting as these are spot on right out of the box. What a professional calibration does (well my take on it) is fine tune an already well calibrated machine.





Ishmam Murshed said:


> Yeah, its kinda of annoying. I might try switch from apple tv to another streaming device. I'll have another chat to my installer. Thanks again for the help.



My money is on the Apple TV and the issue is your installer. My 4K Apple TV saw my 5050 as 4K HDR immediately.


----------



## skylarlove1999

misterg51 said:


> My money is on the Apple TV and the issue is your installer. My 4K Apple TV saw my 5050 as 4K HDR immediately.


Honestly what kind of installer leaves before checking everything is running correctly and optimally. I feel so bad for this guy. I would definitely be asking for some of my money back.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## misterg51

skylarlove1999 said:


> Honestly what kind of installer leaves before checking everything is running correctly and optimally. I feel so bad for this guy. I would definitely be asking for some of my money back.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


There are a 1080 and a 4K model that look identical...... wrong one installer?


----------



## Ishmam Murshed

misterg51 said:


> There are a 1080 and a 4K model that look identical...... wrong one installer?


It is a 4k apple TV, just checked the mode. Yeah something wrong with the amp/apple TV, cables are these ones - https://www.blustream.co.uk/precision-18-hdmi. Im pretty sure its a software issue rather than hardware.


----------



## danield71

Do you have a 4k TV to try your Apple TV 
Regards


Envoyé de mon iPad en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## bommai

Ishmam Murshed said:


> Hey guys, having an issue with getting 4k to work on my apple tv with my epson 5050ub. I've connected it all up using HDMI 2.0as via port 1. However, in settings for apple TV it only goes up to 1080p 60Hz, and not 4k. Was wondering if i could get any help with this.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers



I have Apple TV 4K hooked up to my epson 5040UB through a denon 4300 receiver and it does 4K no problem. Is the hdmi cable capable of 4K? Does your Apple TV work with another tv at 4K. Do you have the latest software for the Apple TV?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Luminated67

Ishmam Murshed said:


> It is a 4k apple TV, just checked the mode. Yeah something wrong with the amp/apple TV, cables are these ones - https://www.blustream.co.uk/precision-18-hdmi. Im pretty sure its a software issue rather than hardware.


What’s the length of the HDMI cable being used?


----------



## SuperMiguel

any idea when will the projector drop to 2699 again?


----------



## skylarlove1999

SuperMiguel said:


> any idea when will the projector drop to 2699 again?


Sounds like somebody didn't pull the trigger and has got not buying remorse right now. Sorry for your pain. Check out Best Buy tomorrow maybe they do something for Independence Day and the Women's World Cup.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## drhankz

SuperMiguel said:


> any idea when will the projector drop to 2699 again?



Why be so *cheap* just buy it


----------



## skylarlove1999

SuperMiguel said:


> any idea when will the projector drop to 2699 again?


Not that low but check out Best Buy today. 24 month free financing as well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SuperMiguel

skylarlove1999 said:


> SuperMiguel said:
> 
> 
> 
> any idea when will the projector drop to 2699 again?
> 
> 
> 
> Not that low but check out Best Buy today. 24 month free financing as well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I didnt do the financing part but I did buy it. Lol one of my local (20miles away) had it. Just left the store with it. I really hope its better than mine ht3550 lol I will be comparing them tonight. Any suggestion on ceiling mount??


----------



## JonfromCB

SuperMiguel said:


> I didnt do the financing part but I did buy it. Lol one of my local (20miles away) had it. Just left the store with it. I really hope its better than mine ht3550 lol I will be comparing them tonight. Any suggestion on ceiling mount??


Lengthy discussion on mounts several pages back.


----------



## Barrettmr

I currently have the 5020UB with a run of 25' to my AV closet so I use the monoprice redmere cable detailed below. If I upgrade to the 5050UB to watch 4K movies, will this cable be good enough or would it need replacing? Confused with the speed ratings and what is needed to watch 4k HDR movies from my Pano 820...The spec on the cable below says 10.2Gbps but I saw something about this new projector supports 18Gbps which sounds like my current 25' redmere would have to be replaced? :-(

Thanks!!
----------------------------------
Reliably connect your home theater equipment to greater distances than with passive cables using this Select Active Series High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology from Monoprice!

This High Speed HDMI Cable supports the following general features:

Active signal regeneration to ensure accurate reproduction over longer distances
10.2Gbps data throughput
VW-1 in-wall fire safety rating
28AWG copper conductors
Gold plated connectors

It supports the following HDMI features:

1080p resolution at 60Hz
4K resolution at 24Hz
3D video
Audio Return Channel
Deep Color up to 16-bits per channel
x.v.Color™
High Definition Audio, including SA-CD, DVD-Audio, DTS-HD Master Audio™, and Dolby TrueHD™


----------



## skylarlove1999

Barrettmr said:


> I currently have the 5020UB with a run of 25' to my AV closet so I use the monoprice redmere cable detailed below. If I upgrade to the 5050UB to watch 4K movies, will this cable be good enough or would it need replacing? Confused with the speed ratings and what is needed to watch 4k HDR movies from my Pano 820...The spec on the cable below says 10.2Gbps but I saw something about this new projector supports 18Gbps which sounds like my current 25' redmere would have to be replaced? :-(
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> Reliably connect your home theater equipment to greater distances than with passive cables using this Select Active Series High Speed HDMI Cable with RedMere Technology from Monoprice!
> 
> 
> 
> This High Speed HDMI Cable supports the following general features:
> 
> 
> 
> Active signal regeneration to ensure accurate reproduction over longer distances
> 
> 10.2Gbps data throughput
> 
> VW-1 in-wall fire safety rating
> 
> 28AWG copper conductors
> 
> Gold plated connectors
> 
> 
> 
> It supports the following HDMI features:
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p resolution at 60Hz
> 
> 4K resolution at 24Hz
> 
> 3D video
> 
> Audio Return Channel
> 
> Deep Color up to 16-bits per channel
> 
> x.v.Color
> 
> High Definition Audio, including SA-CD, DVD-Audio, DTS-HD Master Audio, and Dolby TrueHD


Really depends on your media player and the source. Your current cable supports 4K at 24hz which is the streaming rate for many apps that support 4k and HDR. Depending upon your media player some apps may send 4K/60FPS which the 5050 will receive but your cable will not support that signal many times also referred to as being 18GBPS compatible. So you probably want a new cable. You can certainly try the 5050 with all your current setup and see how it works.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SuperMiguel

JonfromCB said:


> SuperMiguel said:
> 
> 
> 
> I didnt do the financing part but I did buy it. Lol one of my local (20miles away) had it. Just left the store with it. I really hope its better than mine ht3550 lol I will be comparing them tonight. Any suggestion on ceiling mount??
> 
> 
> 
> Lengthy discussion on mounts several pages back.
Click to expand...

Looked few pages back and didnt see it. I looking for a single beam one. I just have one bean not sure why all these mounts have 4 holes.


----------



## JonfromCB

SuperMiguel said:


> Looked few pages back and didnt see it. I looking for a single beam one. I just have one bean not sure why all these mounts have 4 holes.


Starts at post #1467 . Discussion is about mounts and alignment but you should find all you need on mounts there. Good luck


----------



## JonfromCB

Barrettmr said:


> I currently have the 5020UB with a run of 25' to my AV closet so I use the monoprice redmere cable detailed below. If I upgrade to the 5050UB to watch 4K movies, will this cable be good enough or would it need replacing? Confused with the speed ratings and what is needed to watch 4k HDR movies from my Pano 820...The spec on the cable below says 10.2Gbps but I saw something about this new projector supports 18Gbps which sounds like my current 25' redmere would have to be replaced? :-(
> 
> Thanks!!
> ----------------------------------
> Reliably connect your home theater equipment to greater distances than with passive cables using this Select Active Series High Speed HDMI® Cable with RedMere® Technology from Monoprice!
> 
> This High Speed HDMI Cable supports the following general features:
> 
> Active signal regeneration to ensure accurate reproduction over longer distances
> 10.2Gbps data throughput
> VW-1 in-wall fire safety rating
> 28AWG copper conductors
> Gold plated connectors
> 
> It supports the following HDMI features:
> 
> 1080p resolution at 60Hz
> 4K resolution at 24Hz
> 3D video
> Audio Return Channel
> Deep Color up to 16-bits per channel
> x.v.Color™
> High Definition Audio, including SA-CD, DVD-Audio, DTS-HD Master Audio™, and Dolby TrueHD™



Barrettmr, The active cables with "redmere" chips won't support speeds above 10.2 Gbs or 60hz. They have been replaced by the new "spectra" chips. Long story made short, if you want to play all the latest and greatest sources with your PJ you will need to upgrade. There are discussions of HDMI specs at and around post #451 and #1459 in this thread.


----------



## SuperMiguel

dr bill said:


> *The Delong cable works!!!*
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NLDLL7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> Story: I saw that all three cables were sitting at the local Post Office, waiting to go onto the truck for delivery. Being the insane person I am, I went over there to intercept the cables, so as not to wait a few hours to get them delivered. Only the Delong was easily locatable, so I took that one home and tried it out. And it friggin' works! No handshake issues.
> 
> I believe this was the cheapest of the three, so the other two are going back.
> 
> Now I get to see 4K blu-ray and streaming in all their glory. Holy cow - I am sooo impressed by this projector.
> 
> Now, if I can only get the wife to admit that she sees a difference compared to the old Sony. "Looks like a regular VCR tape to me..."



what kind of issues were you having with your old cable? when you say handshake? what do you mean by that


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



Barrettmr said:


> I currently have the 5020UB with a run of 25' to my AV closet so I use the monoprice redmere cable detailed below. If I upgrade to the 5050UB to watch 4K movies, will this cable be good enough or would it need replacing? Confused with the speed ratings and what is needed to watch 4k HDR movies from my Pano 820...The spec on the cable below says 10.2Gbps but I saw something about this new projector supports 18Gbps which sounds like my current 25' redmere would have to be replaced? :-(
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> ----------------------------------
> 
> Reliably connect your home theater equipment to greater distances than with passive cables using this Select Active Series High Speed HDMI Cable with RedMere Technology from Monoprice!
> 
> 
> 
> This High Speed HDMI Cable supports the following general features:
> 
> 
> 
> Active signal regeneration to ensure accurate reproduction over longer distances
> 
> 10.2Gbps data throughput
> 
> VW-1 in-wall fire safety rating
> 
> 28AWG copper conductors
> 
> Gold plated connectors
> 
> 
> 
> It supports the following HDMI features:
> 
> 
> 
> 1080p resolution at 60Hz
> 
> 4K resolution at 24Hz
> 
> 3D video
> 
> Audio Return Channel
> 
> Deep Color up to 16-bits per channel
> 
> x.v.Color
> 
> High Definition Audio, including SA-CD, DVD-Audio, DTS-HD Master Audio, and Dolby TrueHD




I believe this is one of the best cables when the application calls for a distance of more than 20 feet. It has worked flawlessly for me so far:

Fiber HDMI Cable RUIPRO 4K60HZ 33 feet Light Speed HDMI2.0b Cable, Supports 18.2 Gbps, ARC, HDR10, Dolby Vision, HDCP2.2, 4:4:4, Ultra Slim and Flexible HDMI Optic Cable with Optic Technology 10m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGDFCSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iIseDbBE9CPDX


----------



## ike12

Can someone please confirm to use Xbox One X as my Movie BluRay player, and get full 4K HDR I would need to purchase an "HD Fury Linker"?? 



If an example problem helps: everything plays great on my xbox *youtube, dashboard, games are in 4k and life is good* now I throw in a movie lets say "Warcraft 4K HDR" and it reverts to 1080P SDR.. No idea why. 



If I replace the Xbox as my movie player with a Ps4 Pro does this problem go away? Or a dedicated 4K player? Or suck it up and buy the HD Fury for approx $250.? 



Thank you!


----------



## SuperMiguel

As far as mounts go whats the difference between the CHF2500 and the CHF4500???


----------



## skylarlove1999

SuperMiguel said:


> As far as mounts go whats the difference between the CHF2500 and the CHF4500???


As far as I know the 2500 is just the older model from 2015 and the 4500 is the 2019 model. Both black and both can be used for many models of the Epson Home and Pro Cinema line including the 5050 and 6050.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

ike12 said:


> Can someone please confirm to use Xbox One X as my Movie BluRay player, and get full 4K HDR I would need to purchase an "HD Fury Linker"??
> 
> 
> 
> If an example problem helps: everything plays great on my xbox *youtube, dashboard, games are in 4k and life is good* now I throw in a movie lets say "Warcraft 4K HDR" and it reverts to 1080P SDR.. No idea why.
> 
> 
> 
> If I replace the Xbox as my movie player with a Ps4 Pro does this problem go away? Or a dedicated 4K player? Or suck it up and buy the HD Fury for approx $250.?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!


I don't know why your XBOX One X would not be able to pass the 4K signal through to the 5050. Adding another component into the chain, even something as helpful as the HD FURY LINK, might not resolve your issue because I haven't seen you articulate the root cause of your issue. Can you elaborate please the cause as you believe it to be rather than the result. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SuperMiguel said:


> what kind of issues were you having with your old cable? when you say handshake? what do you mean by that


https://support.channelmaster.com/h...-work-all-the-time-or-why-is-it-intermittent-


Good explanation of "HDMI Handshake" issue.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SuperMiguel

skylarlove1999 said:


> https://support.channelmaster.com/h...-work-all-the-time-or-why-is-it-intermittent-
> 
> 
> Good explanation of "HDMI Handshake" issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Ya i basically have a 30ft HDMI cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7JTTNR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and while im not having as many issues as you guys i think im going to change the cable for a fiber one ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGDFCSC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) just to be safe


----------



## SuperMiguel

skylarlove1999 said:


> As far as I know the 2500 is just the older model from 2015 and the 4500 is the 2019 model. Both black and both can be used for many models of the Epson Home and Pro Cinema line including the 5050 and 6050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I cant seem to find a 4500 no where for reasonable price. So think ill just pick this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1JFMPG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## JonfromCB

SuperMiguel said:


> I cant seem to find a 4500 no where for reasonable price. So think ill just pick this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1JFMPG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


It looks sturdy and it looks adjustable in 3 dimensions but also looks like it takes two people to align the holes and bolts during projector installation and removal. That's where the Chief design has a huge advantage over most others. One person can slide a PJ in place or remove it for a bulb change or PJ swap. From my experience, that convenience is a big plus for the Chief.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JonfromCB said:


> It looks sturdy and it looks adjustable in 3 dimensions but also looks like it takes two people to align the holes and bolts during projector installation and removal. That's where the Chief design has a huge advantage over most others. One person can slide a PJ in place or remove it for a bulb change or PJ swap. From my experience, that convenience is a big plus for the Chief.


The price for a chief Mount seems ridiculous at first glance until you own one and then you will beat yourself up over being so cheap all these years. I had four different mounts before I got my chief and I would never go back. When you buy a chief mount you won't have to buy a brand new mount every time you get a new projector in the future since the actual mount is universal. You would just need to buy the mounting plate that matches your projector.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SuperMiguel

JonfromCB said:


> It looks sturdy and it looks adjustable in 3 dimensions but also looks like it takes two people to align the holes and bolts during projector installation and removal. That's where the Chief design has a huge advantage over most others. One person can slide a PJ in place or remove it for a bulb change or PJ swap. From my experience, that convenience is a big plus for the Chief.





skylarlove1999 said:


> The price for a chief Mount seems ridiculous at first glance until you own one and then you will beat yourself up over being so cheap all these years. I had four different mounts before I got my chief and I would never go back. When you buy a chief mount you won't have to buy a brand new mount every time you get a new projector in the future since the actual mount is universal. You would just need to buy the mounting plate that matches your projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Ok Ok ill listen went ahead and ordered the Chief RPA 357 and Peerless ACC570 Plate. About $170 both from PP


----------



## Alaric

ike12 said:


> Can someone please confirm to use Xbox One X as my Movie BluRay player, and get full 4K HDR I would need to purchase an "HD Fury Linker"??
> 
> 
> 
> If an example problem helps: everything plays great on my xbox *youtube, dashboard, games are in 4k and life is good* now I throw in a movie lets say "Warcraft 4K HDR" and it reverts to 1080P SDR.. No idea why.
> 
> 
> 
> If I replace the Xbox as my movie player with a Ps4 Pro does this problem go away? Or a dedicated 4K player? Or suck it up and buy the HD Fury for approx $250.?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!


That sounds very strange and i would guess is some form of setting in the Xbox.

UHD is 4k 24p which is less bandwidth than Xbox 4k is using so really should not be an issue.
Certainly no need for a linker, that's typically used to fudge 4k gaming, not uhd disc films! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## ike12

Thank you, I have removed the X1X from the equation and if I use my Roku 4K to stream a Netflix 4K HDR, It will display in 4K, however signal status always shows SDR, and BT.7 not BT 2 etc? 



I am thinking it could be my receiver although it says 4K 2.2.. I am going to try to bypass it tonight to see if it shows 4K HDR .


----------



## noob00224

How does CFI actually work?
If I select 24Hz from NVCP, do the Low/Med/High change the frame rate?


----------



## oglk30

skylarlove1999 said:


> ike12 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone please confirm to use Xbox One X as my Movie BluRay player, and get full 4K HDR I would need to purchase an "HD Fury Linker"??
> 
> 
> 
> If an example problem helps: everything plays great on my xbox *youtube, dashboard, games
> are in 4k and life is good* now I throw in a movie
> lets say "Warcraft 4K HDR" and it reverts to
> 1080P SDR.. No idea why.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I replace the Xbox as my movie player with a Ps4 Pro does this problem go away? Or a dedicated 4K player? Or suck it up and buy the HD Fury for approx $250.?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why your XBOX One X would not be able to pass the 4K signal through to the 5050. Adding another component into the chain, even something as helpful as the HD FURY LINK, might not resolve your issue because I haven't seen you articulate the root cause of your issue. Can you elaborate please the cause as you believe it to be rather than the result.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I used my xboxX as my player and had no issues getting 4k. I had just received my projector and was just testing it out so i was hooked directly into my xbox at the time and not going through my receiver or anything yet though. I didnt have to change any settings on my xbox from when i had it hooked up through my denon going to my samsung js8500 either.


----------



## Barrettmr

Kelvin1000 said:


> I believe this is one of the best cables when the application calls for a distance of more than 20 feet. It has worked flawlessly for me so far:
> 
> Fiber HDMI Cable RUIPRO 4K60HZ 33 feet Light Speed HDMI2.0b Cable, Supports 18.2 Gbps, ARC, HDR10, Dolby Vision, HDCP2.2, 4:4:4, Ultra Slim and Flexible HDMI Optic Cable with Optic Technology 10m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGDFCSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iIseDbBE9CPDX





JonfromCB said:


> Barrettmr, The active cables with "redmere" chips won't support speeds above 10.2 Gbs or 60hz. They have been replaced by the new "spectra" chips. Long story made short, if you want to play all the latest and greatest sources with your PJ you will need to upgrade. There are discussions of HDMI specs at and around post #451 and #1459 in this thread.


Thank you for the advice - I found they now have this version that must have that newer Spectra chip so I'll upgrade...

Monoprice Cabernet Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI Cable - [email protected] HDR 18Gbps 28AWG YUV 4:4:4 CL2


----------



## BUman

--Sclaws said:


> The dynamic range of the 5050 does change automatically. What setting are you referring to that doesn't change?


Can you explain the difference in these settings. Mine is also set to Auto but it shows SDR currently as I'm watching news on DirecTV.

When I go to Signal, I have several other settings that pop up compared to your picture. Curious why yours doesn't show all these or are you in a different setting. 

3D Setup
Aspect
Overscan
Color Space
Dynamic Range
Advanced

Reset


----------



## BUman

HEAT

Can anyone speak to their own 5050 projector how hot the top left and left side of the projector gets when you've had it on for an hour or two? 

Mine is set up in a cut out shelf that was professionally done inside a soffit next to the ceiling. There is only 1-2 inches on each side and at the top but a couple feet behind. Since the fans are in the front I was told it shouldn't be an issue but I was curious about how hot the side and top of the projector was when I felt it for the first time because it shut off automatically. 

My standby mode was on but I also checked on a heat warning and they said if it had overheated there would be a red blinking button which there is not.


----------



## BUman

When you go to Menu - Info what does your Source say. I'm still concerned w/ my installation. I'm not sure when watching TV why it's saying HDMI2. There was some debate on whether to have my 4k HDMI cables go straight from my Xbox 1/BlueRay and Apple4k into HDMI 1 and HDMI2 instead of having them to my Marantz then to HDMI 1 so it doesn't look like they did that. 

Also - why doesn't EPSON have an official in here answering questions. Their customer service is OK but they are basically reading from their manual. Would be nice to have an expert Epson support person be able to respond unless that's not allowed on AVS.


----------



## Viche

BUman said:


> Also - why doesn't EPSON have an official in here answering questions. Their customer service is OK but they are basically reading from their manual. Would be nice to have an expert Epson support person be able to respond unless that's not allowed on AVS.



Why do you think skylarlove1999 is here?


----------



## ike12

skylarlove1999 said:


> I don't know why your XBOX One X would not be able to pass the 4K signal through to the 5050. Adding another component into the chain, even something as helpful as the HD FURY LINK, might not resolve your issue because I haven't seen you articulate the root cause of your issue. Can you elaborate please the cause as you believe it to be rather than the result.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



After removing the Yamaha Receiver from the equation the Projector and X1X work as should and display automatically a 4K HDR image! The Receiver is 4K 2.0 not 2.2 and therefore the issue.. Time to swap it out. Thanks everyone


----------



## rustolemite

ike12 said:


> After removing the Yamaha Receiver from the equation the Projector and X1X work as should and display automatically a 4K HDR image! The projector is 4K 2.0 not 2.2 and therfore the issue.. Time to swap it out. Thanks everyone


Are you saying the new Epson 5050 doesn't support 2.2? Cause here are the specs.

Terminal Inputs:
2x HDMI (HDCP 2.2)
1x USB Type A (for optical HDMI cable 300 mA max. power supply only)
1x USB (for wireless and firmware)
1x Mini USB (service only)
1x LAN (RJ45)
1x Computer/D-sub 15 pin
1x RS-232c
Trigger out 12 V DC, 200 mA maximum


----------



## skylarlove1999

ike12 said:


> After removing the Yamaha Receiver from the equation the Projector and X1X work as should and display automatically a 4K HDR image! The projector is 4K 2.0 not 2.2 and therfore the issue.. Time to swap it out. Thanks everyone


I'm glad you were able to solve your issue I believe you meant to state that the receiver is the issue and time to swap it out

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rustolemite said:


> Are you saying the new Epson 5050 doesn't support 2.2? Cause here are the specs.
> 
> 
> 
> Terminal Inputs:
> 
> 2x HDMI (HDCP 2.2)
> 
> 1x USB Type A (for optical HDMI cable 300 mA max. power supply only)
> 
> 1x USB (for wireless and firmware)
> 
> 1x Mini USB (service only)
> 
> 1x LAN (RJ45)
> 
> 1x Computer/D-sub 15 pin
> 
> 1x RS-232c
> 
> Trigger out 12 V DC, 200 mA maximum


I believe the original poster misspoke they were talking about the receiver not supporting 2.2 and they need to swap the receiver out not the projector

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> When you go to Menu - Info what does your Source say. I'm still concerned w/ my installation. I'm not sure when watching TV why it's saying HDMI2. There was some debate on whether to have my 4k HDMI cables go straight from my Xbox 1/BlueRay and Apple4k into HDMI 1 and HDMI2 instead of having them to my Marantz then to HDMI 1 so it doesn't look like they did that.
> 
> 
> 
> Also - why doesn't EPSON have an official in here answering questions. Their customer service is OK but they are basically reading from their manual. Would be nice to have an expert Epson support person be able to respond unless that's not allowed on AVS.


It sounds like your DirecTV box is plugged into HDMI 2 for the video signal. it's also plugged into the receiver I would assume it would have to be since you are getting sound from your speakers. I believe you mentioned some while back that you were going to be getting a new 4k receiver anyway at that point I would just run everything into your receiver and then just one HDMI cable from your receiver to the projector. As long as it's all working for now I don't know if it really matters if the projector changes sources for you if you have to change it manually that's a little bit of a pain in the butt.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> Why do you think skylarlove1999 is here?


LOL. I have spent enough time either over the phone or by text or by email with Epson at this point I feel like they should be paying me. But all opinions here on my own LOL.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

ike12 said:


> Thank you, I have removed the X1X from the equation and if I use my Roku 4K to stream a Netflix 4K HDR, It will display in 4K, however signal status always shows SDR, and BT.7 not BT 2 etc?
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking it could be my receiver although it says 4K 2.2.. I am going to try to bypass it tonight to see if it shows 4K HDR .


Did you ever resolve your issue?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> LOL. I have spent enough time either over the phone or by text or by email with Epson at this point I feel like they should be paying me. But all opinions here on my own LOL.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Haha...it's all good. We appreciate your presence and contributions.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> HEAT
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone speak to their own 5050 projector how hot the top left and left side of the projector gets when you've had it on for an hour or two?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is set up in a cut out shelf that was professionally done inside a soffit next to the ceiling. There is only 1-2 inches on each side and at the top but a couple feet behind. Since the fans are in the front I was told it shouldn't be an issue but I was curious about how hot the side and top of the projector was when I felt it for the first time because it shut off automatically.
> 
> 
> 
> My standby mode was on but I also checked on a heat warning and they said if it had overheated there would be a red blinking button which there is not.


Anytime you enclose anything that generates Heat there is the possibility however remote that your technology could suffer and overheat. You are correct in stating that the fan exhaust it's from the front and as long as the front exhaust is clear you should not have any real issues. It was not clear from your post at least to me whether you had the projector shut down due to overheating. I believe you did not. I would expect your projector to feel a little warmer because it is an enclosed space.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

BUman said:


> HEAT
> 
> Can anyone speak to their own 5050 projector how hot the top left and left side of the projector gets when you've had it on for an hour or two?
> 
> Mine is set up in a cut out shelf that was professionally done inside a soffit next to the ceiling. There is only 1-2 inches on each side and at the top but a couple feet behind. Since the fans are in the front I was told it shouldn't be an issue but I was curious about how hot the side and top of the projector was when I felt it for the first time because it shut off automatically.
> 
> My standby mode was on but I also checked on a heat warning and they said if it had overheated there would be a red blinking button which there is not.


I have the 5040 and it does get pretty warm on that one side that the bulb is housed in. I have mine in a soffit to but I also added an exhaust fan to pull fresh air into the projector soffit and out of the room.


----------



## Luminated67

ike12 said:


> After removing the Yamaha Receiver from the equation the Projector and X1X work as should and display automatically a 4K HDR image! The projector is 4K 2.0 not 2.2 and therfore the issue.. Time to swap it out. Thanks everyone


Your assumption is based on what..... the cable you probably swapped from your amp to the XBox? Almost always the problems are the cable used.

The Epson has the identical spec of a JVC in this.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> Your assumption is based on what..... the cable you probably swapped from your amp to the XBox? Almost always the problems are the cable used.
> 
> 
> 
> The Epson has the identical spec of a JVC in this.


I agree that many times the issue is the cable. In this case I think the original poster misspoke. They now believe the Yamaha receiver is the issue not the projector. Because they took the receiver out of the signal path and everything worked correctly I believe using the same cable.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

skylarlove1999 said:


> LOL. I have spent enough time either over the phone or by text or by email with Epson at this point I feel like they should be paying me. But all opinions here on my own LOL.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


maybe your upgrade path is their way of saying "thanks!"


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> maybe your upgrade path is their way of saying "thanks!"


Maybe LOL. Hope you are doing well. Nice to meet you at the Epson event. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ike12

skylarlove1999 said:


> I agree that many times the issue is the cable. In this case I think the original poster misspoke. They now believe the Yamaha receiver is the issue not the projector. Because they took the receiver out of the signal path and everything worked correctly I believe using the same cable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Yes, Sorry for that dam typo! I meant to state the "receiver" is 2.0 not 2.2 and therefore the issue is the receiver. 



Same cable used etc and all signs point to receiver. Thanks all


----------



## BUman

bluer101 said:


> I have the 5040 and it does get pretty warm on that one side that the bulb is housed in. I have mine in a soffit to but I also added an exhaust fan to pull fresh air into the projector soffit and out of the room.


Did you install your projector right side up or did you install it upside down? My former Epson projector was installed upside down but the installers put this one right side up and the lens shift literally is all the way down to the inch to fit the bottom of the screen. Curious if I should install it upside down instead.


----------



## BUman

This is what the projector looks like in our soffit. I was surprised to see the light on the ceiling above the projector. I'm guessing that would go away if we installed it upside down.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BUman said:


> This is what the projector looks like in our soffit. I was surprised to see the light on the ceiling above the projector. I'm guessing that would go away if we installed it upside down.


You will still see that light because of how close you are to the ceiling regardless of the position of the projector it should no way affect the picture quality the only way that it could is if you were really close to the screen it could reflect off the ceiling and onto the screen but I believe you said you were quite a bit back

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> You will still see that light because of how close you are to the ceiling regardless of the position of the projector it should no way affect the picture quality the only way that it could is if you were really close to the screen it could reflect off the ceiling and onto the screen but I believe you said you were quite a bit back
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Those lightly colored walls will affect the picture quality. Too much light reflecting. I just removed most of my black sheets and replaced it with 49 yards of velvet. There is a noticeable increase in picture quality 

Ordered another 40 yards of velvet.









Those pictures are lights on and flash on 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## bluer101

BUman said:


> This is what the projector looks like in our soffit. I was surprised to see the light on the ceiling above the projector. I'm guessing that would go away if we installed it upside down.


Mine is right side up. But I have just a little more space around the projector.


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## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Those lightly colored walls will affect the picture quality. Too much light reflecting. I just removed most of my black sheets and replaced it with 49 yards of velvet. There is a noticeable increase in picture quality
> 
> Ordered another 40 yards of velvet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those pictures are lights on and flash on
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Impressive. Most Impressive. 









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

bluer101 said:


> Mine is right side up. But I have just a little more space around the projector.


Absolutely beautiful home theater well done

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Absolutely beautiful home theater well done
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Amen to that very nice looking 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Impressive. Most Impressive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Just installed my new subwoofers. Replace my dual Power Sound Audio S3611’s with TV36 NEO’s 500 pounds of bass


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ClayM325

Has anyone gone from a 5040 to a 5050? Is it worth upgrading? My HDMI 1 is out on my 5040, trying to decide whether to get a 5040 refurb or a 5050


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Impressive. Most Impressive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Just installed my new subwoofers. Replace my dual Power Sound Audio S3611’s with TV36 NEO’s 500 pounds of bass 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## BUman

bluer101 said:


> Mine is right side up. But I have just a little more space around the projector.


I like the slide out. Do you have to slide that out every time you use it? Also, what did you line your box w/, looks like some type of padding? Is that for noise or heat or what?


----------



## BUman

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Those lightly colored walls will affect the picture quality. Too much light reflecting. I just removed most of my black sheets and replaced it with 49 yards of velvet. There is a noticeable increase in picture quality
> 
> Ordered another 40 yards of velvet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those pictures are lights on and flash on
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, it's why we bought a black diamond 4 years ago and needed the Epson because of the Lumens. We have black out shades but obviously it is still light grey walls. The picture is still great even in the day w/ lights on so that's not been an issue. The problem was this is somewhat of a game room, not a dedicated theatre room like the two above. The room is very large, 25 feet deep by 20 feet wide.


----------



## bluer101

BUman said:


> I like the slide out. Do you have to slide that out every time you use it? Also, what did you line your box w/, looks like some type of padding? Is that for noise or heat or what?


Slide out is for servicing the PJ, connecting cables, firmware, etc. The inside of the box is lined with 1 inch acoustic foam wedge. This is on the sides, top, and back for sound. Without this it would be a echo chamber and make the PJ seem louder.


----------



## SuperMiguel

SuperMiguel said:


> Ya i basically have a 30ft HDMI cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7JTTNR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and while im not having as many issues as you guys i think im going to change the cable for a fiber one ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGDFCSC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) just to be safe


So got the fiber cable table, test it on my xbox one and no issues, (i only tested the menu) then ran it from my my projector to my receiver, tested the xbox one menu still works, then tried to switch to my apple tv and I get a black screen, tried connecting the apple tv directly (bypassing the receiver) and same thing, so reseted my video settings on my apple tv and by default it gets set to 4k SDR, i can see image with the new cable, i tried switching the mode to 4k HDR and i get a blank screen, i tried my old cheap cable and it took a while but eventually showed up, moved cables around again and the screen stared flickering and eventually went back to black screen....  i guess a need a new cable? i thought i was buying the best, i guess not


----------



## skylarlove1999

SuperMiguel said:


> So got the fiber cable table, test it on my xbox one and no issues, (i only tested the menu) then ran it from my my projector to my receiver, tested the xbox one menu still works, then tried to switch to my apple tv and I get a black screen, tried connecting the apple tv directly (bypassing the receiver) and same thing, so reseted my video settings on my apple tv and by default it gets set to 4k SDR, i can see image with the new cable, i tried switching the mode to 4k HDR and i get a blank screen, i tried my old cheap cable and it took a while but eventually showed up, moved cables around again and the screen stared flickering and eventually went back to black screen....  i guess a need a new cable? i thought i was buying the best, i guess not


You went with the ruipro correct? This is the one I currently use between my Denon 6500 and Epson 6050. No issues.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-FURUI-H...75&s=gateway&sprefix=furui+&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## SuperMiguel

skylarlove1999 said:


> You went with the ruipro correct? This is the one I currently use between my Denon 6500 and Epson 6050. No issues.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-FURUI-H...75&s=gateway&sprefix=furui+&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yup I went with ruipro. Just ordered the one you linked. I'll update on my results Friday. I got the braided version


----------



## plain fan

All projector manufacturers spec a recommendation for space around their units for proper cooling. I'd check your manual and see what it says, but I'm sure the projector does get warm.


----------



## DocOrange88

I got my 5050 yesterday and got to set it up roughly. Wow Color/Blacks etc are mind blowing. Here are two pictures. One is it comparing to my old projector still in place. Screen shot is in digital cinema mode. I know I can improve some reflection items in my room I'm working on that.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DocOrange88 said:


> I got my 5050 yesterday and got to set it up roughly. Wow Color/Blacks etc are mind blowing. Here are two pictures. One is it comparing to my old projector still in place. Screen shot is in digital cinema mode. I know I can improve some reflection items in my room I'm working on that.


Welcome to the family. I am amazed every day at the picture I get from my Epson 6050.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

DocOrange88 said:


> I got my 5050 yesterday and got to set it up roughly. Wow Color/Blacks etc are mind blowing. Here are two pictures. One is it comparing to my old projector still in place. Screen shot is in digital cinema mode. I know I can improve some reflection items in my room I'm working on that.




How big is that screen !!! 

I too am loving my picture with the velvet added. Just watched the Backdraft 4K release. Excellent picture quality and amazing for a 1991 release. 

Also just watched Murder in the Orient Express










I also haven’t touched the HDR slider now in a couple weeks. That’s the best feeling !! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> How big is that screen !!!
> 
> I too am loving my picture with the velvet added. Just watched the Backdraft 4K release. Excellent picture quality and amazing for a 1991 release.
> 
> Also just watched Murder in the Orient Express
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also haven’t touched the HDR slider now in a couple weeks. That’s the best feeling !!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Murder on the Orient Express is definitely reference video and audio story was okay but those are some amazing pictures

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Murder on the Orient Express is definitely reference video and audio story was okay but those are some amazing pictures
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Sorry my feet got in the way. Finally got my new subwoofers dialed in too. 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Sorry my feet got in the way. Finally got my new subwoofers dialed in too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Surprised you still have any feet left sitting in front of those beasts

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DocOrange88

What do you guys have the HDR set to. I'm leaving color at Digital Cinema with lights off and setting HDR to 6. I find it to be better in most cases. Are you guys just running medium on the lamp or high?


----------



## skylarlove1999

DocOrange88 said:


> What do you guys have the HDR set to. I'm leaving color at Digital Cinema with lights off and setting HDR to 6. I find it to be better in most cases. Are you guys just running medium on the lamp or high?


I am using a Alaric settings currently using Digital Cinema and lamp on high and HDR set to 2.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

DocOrange88 said:


> What do you guys have the HDR set to. I'm leaving color at Digital Cinema with lights off and setting HDR to 6. I find it to be better in most cases. Are you guys just running medium on the lamp or high?




My unit has been calibrated in Natural Mode with high lamp slider is set to 6. We chose light output over P3 coverage. I was getting 30nits on screen with the color filter and I’m over 75 nits without. Chad thought the overall impact of HDR is better represented with that compromise. I wasn’t sure at first but I do love what I’m seeing and I still have 85% of P3 

For reference Sony 285ES does 91% P3


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----------



## LIPLASMA

Quick question from a rookie projector owner. 

I purchased a 6050UB and I am in the process of purchasing the screen now. I want to purchase a 133" 16x9 screen but according to projector central I need a throw distance of 17'8" at 1.55x zoom and I only have 16'10". So if I use a 133" at 16'10" it says I would be at 1.62x zoom will this have a negative impact on picture quality?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am using a Alaric settings currently using Digital Cinema and lamp on high and HDR set to 2.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




I will say that was what I used prior to the calibration. Now I wonder how much the velvet helps and if things would have been done differently. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

DocOrange88 said:


> What do you guys have the HDR set to. I'm leaving color at Digital Cinema with lights off and setting HDR to 6. I find it to be better in most cases. Are you guys just running medium on the lamp or high?


Been using @Alaric's settings and mostly settling on HDR between 5-7.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

LIPLASMA said:


> Quick question from a rookie projector owner.
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a 6050UB and I am in the process of purchasing the screen now. I want to purchase a 133" 16x9 screen but according to projector central I need a throw distance of 17'8" at 1.55x zoom and I only have 16'10". So if I use a 133" at 16'10" it says I would be at 1.62x zoom will this have a negative impact on picture quality?




I would say I lost contrast and sharpness having to go with more zoom on my screen set up. 


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----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I will say that was what I used prior to the calibration. Now I wonder how much the velvet helps and if things would have been done differently.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have to imagine it does make a difference . I have my ceiling covered in velvet and my side walls all the way back to the first seating position. I'm sure your picture is just as amazing. Some people and calibrators for that matter prefer A Brighter Image for HDR and with a professional calibration you're probably not getting any black crush and you're getting plenty of Shadow details and specular highlights even without using the color filter and you are getting way more light to the screen which translates to higher nits.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have to imagine it does make a difference . I have my ceiling covered in velvet and my side walls all the way back to the first seating position. I'm sure your picture is just as amazing. Some people and calibrators for that matter prefer A Brighter Image for HDR and with a professional calibration you're probably not getting any black crush and you're getting plenty of Shadow details and specular highlights even without using the color filter and you are getting way more light to the screen which translates to higher nits.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




I think it measures 79 nits. Yes there was a huge increase in shadow detail. 

It’s interesting because I believe I read JVC recommends 50nits as the target for the new line of Projectors. 

I deferred to Chads expert opinion but would have liked a mode that compromises the two for increased P3 color. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

LIPLASMA said:


> Quick question from a rookie projector owner.
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a 6050UB and I am in the process of purchasing the screen now. I want to purchase a 133" 16x9 screen but according to projector central I need a throw distance of 17'8" at 1.55x zoom and I only have 16'10". So if I use a 133" at 16'10" it says I would be at 1.62x zoom will this have a negative impact on picture quality?


Zoom does have a negative impact on picture quality for all projectors to varying degrees. Your 6050 has the best optical panels that Epson offers so I would say that your picture quality will not be significantly impacted. I am at 16 ft on a 120 inch 16x9 Seymour Glacier white perfectly smooth screen. I have the Epson 6050. I would say room reflections and ambient light would have more impact on percieved contrast and sharpness than your proposed zoom.









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## DocOrange88

CallingMrBenzo said:


> How big is that screen !!!


It's from Carl's Place, it is about ~140" 1.85:1 aspect ratio. I'm using Nanoperf screen from them and it works great, no woven for me, which I think actually helps maintain the brightness better than woven. Here is what is behind the screen(another feature of nanoperf is you can shine light though the screen from the back and see though it).


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

DocOrange88 said:


> It's from Carl's Place, it is about ~140" 1.85:1 aspect ratio. I'm using Nanoperf screen from them and it works great, no woven for me, which I think actually helps maintain the brightness better than woven. Here is what is behind the screen(another feature of nanoperf is you can shine light though the screen from the back and see though it).




That looks very interesting. Not like my behind the screen action is very cool to look at like yours. 


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----------



## DocOrange88

ckronengold said:


> Been using @Alaric's settings and mostly settling on HDR between 5-7.


Do you have a link where I can find his settings and setup?


----------



## skylarlove1999

DocOrange88 said:


> Do you have a link where I can find his settings and setup?


https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home

These is Alaric's home page. Scroll down for his settings.

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----------



## ckronengold

DocOrange88 said:


> Do you have a link where I can find his settings and setup?


People are also enjoying the settings shared on ProjectorReviews. 

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-advanced-calibration/

Its a matter of preference and/or tradeoffs. Play with 'em until you're happy. Don't worry about the rest of us.


----------



## ClayM325

ClayM325 said:


> Has anyone gone from a 5040 to a 5050? Is it worth upgrading? My HDMI 1 is out on my 5040, trying to decide whether to get a 5040 refurb or a 5050


Anyone?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

ClayM325 said:


> Anyone?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


If you read through this post which I agree it's long you'll find that almost everyone is Amazed by the 5050 and probably at least half of us have upgraded from the 5040 some of us all the way to the 6050.

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## DocOrange88

skylarlove1999 said:


> If you read through this post which I agree it's long you'll find that almost everyone is Amazed by the 5050 and probably at least half of us have upgraded from the 5040 some of us all the way to the 6050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I don't know if this feedback is helpful. However most people question the gains from a 5050 to a 6050 and I think that is likely fair as you are mostly paying for an extra bulb and mount and an extra year of warranty. Considering its only a small amount softer than Sony 40K laser projector you likely can't go wrong regardless. However right now the 5050 is $200 bucks off which pushed me to purchase the 5050 as a $1200 difference becomes meaningful relative to the other benefits. 

Assuming that Epson keeps up I'm assuming they will make the jump to native 4K and they will have absolutely as good as Sony's 40 grand offering.

It seems that the upgrade is massive, especially for color and blacks.

P.S. not knocking the 6050 I was in route to buy that until the extra 200 bucks showed up, and my thought became will I get $1200 gain and I figured no rather save that for upgrades 3 years down the road.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

ClayM325 said:


> Anyone?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk




Well if want an expert opinion Chad B Calibrated my unit. He said the pixel shifting and structure was much improved. The added greyscale controls improved the calibration significantly. He commented that the way it handles HDR was also a big improvement. So from a calibrators point of view it was a worthy successor


----------



## misterg51

ClayM325 said:


> Anyone?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk



I upgraded from my second 5040 and have yet to look back. Called Epson twice to Dick Tracey Support if they could show me the 6050 was better than 5050. Nobody there found any evidence, maybe in Marketing though, lol.


----------



## ShadowBoy

Wow. 13,250 posts on the JVC RS-1000,2000,3000 thread and 2097 on this one. Is the JCV just the darling around here or are all the problems it is having contributing to the conversation?


----------



## skylarlove1999

ShadowBoy said:


> Wow. 13,250 posts on the JVC RS-1000,2000,3000 thread and 2097 on this one. Is the JCV just the darling around here or are all the problems it is having contributing to the conversation?


5000 of those are just from ARROW AV . But I think the QC problems when they launched all 3 of the native 3 projectors late last year certainly contributed. This thread is also only been around for about half the time but still pretty disproportionate. Many more videophiles bought the JVC projectors and paid significantly more so they are rightfully going to report all the defects that they have been experiencing. I would expect nothing less.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

ShadowBoy said:


> Wow. 13,250 posts on the JVC RS-1000,2000,3000 thread and 2097 on this one. Is the JCV just the darling around here or are all the problems it is having contributing to the conversation?




It’s more the darling. I’m reading my way through and I own an Epson. Why because end game I own a JVC and want to know all about it.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> It’s more the darling. I’m reading my way through and I own an Epson. Why because end game I own a JVC and want to know all about it.


+1 

end game is JVC 4K laser projector when it has 5000 lumens and price under $10k so should be around 2025. Unless the price of a 135 inch MicroLed Wall is less than $10k by then. Still might take the projector even then. More cinematic picture.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

ShadowBoy said:


> Wow. 13,250 posts on the JVC RS-1000,2000,3000 thread and 2097 on this one. Is the JCV just the darling around here or are all the problems it is having contributing to the conversation?


JVC as a brand seem to be very strong in the US and probably extremely slick marketing to boost it's fan base compared to some other leading brands and since this is primarily a US site it's understandable their products take the lion share of posts.

On these particular projectors the expectation has been very high but they have had many issues with delivery delays being the biggest so plenty of unhappy potential customers.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> JVC as a brand seem to be very strong in the US and probably extremely slick marketing to boost it's fan base compared to some other leading brands and since this is primarily a US site it's understandable their products take the lion share of posts.
> 
> 
> 
> On these particular projectors the expectation has been very high but they have had many issues with delivery delays being the biggest so plenty of unhappy potential customers.




As well as many very happy customers but I’m only 200 pages deep. It doesn’t seem any different from the new BenQ releases and the issues they have and Epson has had its fair share as well


----------



## DocOrange88

CallingMrBenzo said:


> As well as many very happy customers but I’m only 200 pages deep. It doesn’t seem any different from the new BenQ releases and the issues they have and Epson has had its fair share as well


I hate to say it but it's hard to qualify the JVC. Technically most people likely would perfer the Epson 5050/6050 over the NX5/NX7. The NX5 doesn't even cover P3, while maybe it's sharper it should be darker and the colors not as good. I'd like to see an A/B However at twice the price and 3 times the price it's silly to compare them. The new Epsons are a steal it seems like. 

A snap from my favorite movie, only regular Blu-ray SDR. I used the calibration you guys linked, it looks amazing.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DocOrange88 said:


> I hate to say it but it's hard to qualify the JVC. Technically most people likely would perfer the Epson 5050/6050 over the NX5/NX7. The NX5 doesn't even cover P3, while maybe it's sharper it should be darker and the colors not as good. I'd like to see an A/B However at twice the price and 3 times the price it's silly to compare them. The new Epsons are a steal it seems like.
> 
> 
> 
> A snap from my favorite movie, only regular Blu-ray SDR. I used the calibration you guys linked, it looks amazing.


At their price points the Epson projectors punch well above their weight class. Even if I could have afforded the nx7 I am not positive it would have been money well spent over my 6050. I have seen the nx7 and it does throw an amazing picture in SDR or HDR.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



DocOrange88 said:


> I hate to say it but it's hard to qualify the JVC. Technically most people likely would perfer the Epson 5050/6050 over the NX5/NX7. The NX5 doesn't even cover P3, while maybe it's sharper it should be darker and the colors not as good. I'd like to see an A/B However at twice the price and 3 times the price it's silly to compare them. The new Epsons are a steal it seems like.
> 
> 
> 
> A snap from my favorite movie, only regular Blu-ray SDR. I used the calibration you guys linked, it looks amazing.




The NX-5 covers in the low 90’s of P3 with no filter. Had a significantly higher contrast ratio 20,000:1 and better HDR tone mapping. Better lens etc. 


Oh I forgot it also has double the pixels because it’s true 4K


Guys I understand we all love the Epson for what it does but let’s not be foolish. Both calibrated in your space the JVC will win. Is it worth the price difference at 6k ... IMO probably not, but you can get them from dealers for MUCH less money if you know the right dealer.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> The NX-5 covers in the low 90’s of P3 with no filter. Had a significantly higher contrast ratio 20,000:1 and better HDR tone mapping. Better lens etc.
> 
> 
> Oh I forgot it also has double the pixels because it’s true 4K
> 
> 
> Guys I understand we all love the Epson for what it does but let’s not be foolish. Both calibrated in your space the JVC will win. Is it worth the price difference at 6k ... IMO probably not, but you can get them from dealers for MUCH less money if you know the right dealer.


I don't disagree with any of your statements. I don't think any of us wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the true 4K and the better lens giving you better sharpness and better contrast. It is just everyone has a budget or at least most people LOL. Even with a great deal not sure it's just worth the extra money. Especially if you plan on keeping it for more than 2 to 3 years the cost of the JVC bulbs is three to four times the cost of an Epson bulb. That is why I'm waiting to buy a true 4K with laser whether that be Epson or JVC or some other brand.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DocOrange88

skylarlove1999 said:


> I don't disagree with any of your statements. I don't think any of us wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the true 4K and the better lens giving you better sharpness and better contrast. It is just everyone has a budget or at least most people LOL. Even with a great deal not sure it's just worth the extra money. Especially if you plan on keeping it for more than 2 to 3 years the cost of the JVC bulbs is three to four times the cost of an Epson bulb. That is why I'm waiting to buy a true 4K with laser whether that be Epson or JVC or some other brand.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yea I'm in agreement, I feel like my next projector after this must be laser.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DocOrange88 said:


> Yea I'm in agreement, I feel like my next projector after this must be laser.


Those JVC bulbs are almost $900. Very steep if you use your projector as your main viewing display.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

DocOrange88 said:


> I hate to say it but it's hard to qualify the JVC. Technically most people likely would perfer the Epson 5050/6050 over the NX5/NX7. The NX5 doesn't even cover P3, while maybe it's sharper it should be darker and the colors not as good. I'd like to see an A/B However at twice the price and 3 times the price it's silly to compare them. The new Epsons are a steal it seems like.
> 
> A snap from my favorite movie, only regular Blu-ray SDR. I used the calibration you guys linked, it looks amazing.


To be fair the NX5 hits about ~90% of P3. The 5050/6050 will hit more with its filter but the hit to light output I've seen reported makes the filter a less than optimal option. The street pricing on the NX5 isn't twice the Epson. The NX7 street pricing is about twice the price though.

I do agree that the Epson is an excellent price/perf unit though.


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> Those JVC bulbs are almost $900. Very steep if you use your projector as your main viewing display.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Not even close. The MSRP is $599. If you have a good relationship with your dealer, do you think you'll pay MSRP?

Granted the Epson option is MUCH more economical.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> Not even close. The MSRP is $599. If you have a good relationship with your dealer, do you think you'll pay MSRP?
> 
> 
> 
> Granted the Epson option is MUCH more economical.


I am sure they can be found for cheaper but not sure about $599









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am sure they can be found for cheaper but not sure about $599
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




In the JVC thread they quote $499 as the number. Yes it’s higher but that’s the cost and the overall image is better. 

The Epson is as good as it gets until you jump into the next tier. I personally would love to be there some day. I hope I get there but life has a way of changing things on you and the Epson will provide a great image in the meantime.


----------



## jeahrens

The JVC NX/RSxxxx thread is a big one. The first portion is speculation. The next portion is largely shipping problems/damage and early firmware discussions. Finally it settles down to real feedback and professional reviews. As far as being a darling, not sure I would say that. The scrutiny these units have had is pretty severe. But as some of you point out, units at this price point should be held to that standard.

Whether it ends up being worth it is up to the consumer. I've been on 3 theater crawls which comprised about 20 rooms with projectors from all the major players. I don't feel like the NX lineup is overpriced or overhyped. However you have to take into account that everything in this hobby suffers from the law of diminishing returns. Are you getting 200% more performance vs. the Epson 5050? Of course not. But you'll always pay more for that next level and the amount gets higher the further up you go. I feel that the Epson really hits a sweet spot. It's easily better than the $1-2K 4K DLPs and isn't shamed by units with a much higher cost.


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am sure they can be found for cheaper but not sure about $599
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'm sure.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...000-nx5-n5-owners-thread-74.html#post57454680

That's the official JVC blurb.

And I know what I was quoted by my dealer when I asked about a replacement bulb for my RS520. It was less than MSRP.


----------



## Hawkmarket

jeahrens said:


> To be fair the NX5 hits about ~90% of P3. The 5050/6050 will hit more with its filter but the hit to light output I've seen reported makes the filter a less than optimal option. The street pricing on the NX5 isn't twice the Epson. The NX7 street pricing is about twice the price though.
> 
> I do agree that the Epson is an excellent price/perf unit though.



Lots of variables go into the decision of what to choose. I have a 150" screen so the added brightness of the Epson is worth a lot to me. In addition, about 40% of my viewing is sports with the lights on so contrast is worthless to me at that point. If I had a 120" or smaller I probably would have gone the route of the NX5 or 7 but given the size of the screen and viewing habits I'll gladly pocket some money and have a better projector for me and my setup. I've always described the Epson's UB series as the best bang for the buck jack of all trades master of none projectors you can buy. A damn good projector for the money.


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> The NX-5 covers in the low 90’s of P3 with no filter. Had a significantly higher contrast ratio 20,000:1 and better HDR tone mapping. Better lens etc.
> 
> 
> Oh I forgot it also has double the pixels because it’s true 4K
> 
> 
> Guys I understand we all love the Epson for what it does but let’s not be foolish. Both calibrated in your space the JVC will win. Is it worth the price difference at 6k ... IMO probably not, but you can get them from dealers for MUCH less money if you know the right dealer.


And yet in the UK both the Epson TW9400(6050) and NX5 have been seen in dealers with both calibrated for their surrounds with screen and quite a few members of AVForums who saw both Side by side actually didn’t see the improve over the Epson, at the very least not enough to justify the price difference.

We all know improvement reduce as you start to reach the upper tier of all Home Cinema equipment so each has to decide for themselves if the improvement no matter how small is worth it to them. The problem I have with true 4K is to see a huge difference in sharpness you either have to move closer or increase the screen size and sometime neither option is possible.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> And yet in the UK both the Epson TW9400(6050) and NX5 have been seen in dealers with both calibrated for their surrounds with screen and quite a few members of AVForums who saw both Side by side actually didn’t see the improve over the Epson, at the very least not enough to justify the price difference.
> 
> 
> 
> We all know improvement reduce as you start to reach the upper tier of all Home Cinema equipment so each has to decide for themselves if the improvement no matter how small is worth it to them. The problem I have with true 4K is to see a huge difference in sharpness you either have to move closer or increase the screen size and sometime neither option is possible.




I’ve read that entire thread. I’ve been to some dealers and seen they way they display certain units and well. No wonder people can’t tell the difference. I don’t take a ton of stock in that. 

I still purchased the Epson and was one of the first to get a 5050UB over here. Had I realized how much less the street price of the JVC really was I would have gone that route. That’s all. I think we have beat topic up enough today and we can resume normal business.


----------



## jeahrens

Luminated67 said:


> And yet in the UK both the Epson TW9400(6050) and NX5 have been seen in dealers with both calibrated for their surrounds with screen and quite a few members of AVForums who saw both Side by side actually didn’t see the improve over the Epson, at the very least not enough to justify the price difference.
> 
> We all know improvement reduce as you start to reach the upper tier of all Home Cinema equipment so each has to decide for themselves if the improvement no matter how small is worth it to them. The problem I have with true 4K is to see a huge difference in sharpness you either have to move closer or increase the screen size and sometime neither option is possible.


You also need to add in the optics to the list of appreciating 4K. One of the reasons the native Sony 4K units didn't show large differences in details compared to the JVC or Epson e-shifters when I auditioned them was that the lenses had poor uniformity overall. I would guess part of the price hike we've seen in the new native JVC's is due to the work they've done to get the lens quality up to displaying single pixel 4K edge to edge properly. It will be interesting to see how Epson fairs here when they decide to produce a native 4K product. 

As far as the 6050 vs. the NX5 there's so many factors that can go into a comparison like that. We know the measured contrast is about 5-8k native for the Epson and about 20-25k for the NX5. Each doubling of contrast should be noticeable to the eye. So from an objective standpoint the measurements tell us we should definitely see a difference. But, as I said earlier so much can factor in. Either way the Epson is certainly not a slouch contrast wise and you can certainly conclude there are people that simply don't see enough difference to justify the cost. One mistake on the JVC side that a lot of shops have made is that the black floor is elevated at 0. For HDR most of these units need brightness at -2 or -3 to be viewed properly. Not saying that was a factor in the test you reference, but it's certainly been a factor we've seen pop up in other comparisons.


----------



## DocOrange88

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I’ve read that entire thread. I’ve been to some dealers and seen they way they display certain units and well. No wonder people can’t tell the difference. I don’t take a ton of stock in that.
> 
> I still purchased the Epson and was one of the first to get a 5050UB over here. Had I realized how much less the street price of the JVC really was I would have gone that route. That’s all. I think we have beat topic up enough today and we can resume normal business.


Well, I'll just use this as a comparison
https://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-home-cinema-5050ub-review-performance-brightness-sharpness/


They compare the over all picture quality between the Epson and the Sony. We all know the Sony is certainly better but not that much better. So to say that you will really notice the JVCs without going to the 8K shifter I don't know. I think it supports the Epson as being the best logical choice anywhere near the price.


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I’ve read that entire thread. I’ve been to some dealers and seen they way they display certain units and well. No wonder people can’t tell the difference. I don’t take a ton of stock in that.
> 
> I still purchased the Epson and was one of the first to get a 5050UB over here. Had I realized how much less the street price of the JVC really was I would have gone that route. That’s all. I think we have beat topic up enough today and we can resume normal business.


I know where one of the comparisons took place and it was properly done with a light controlled room. And some of the comments came from JVC owners who should be customer to noticing better black levels than a regular projector .


----------



## ShadowBoy

skylarlove1999 said:


> At their price points the Epson projectors punch well above their weight class. Even if I could have afforded the nx7 I am not positive it would have been money well spent over my 6050. I have seen the nx7 and it does throw an amazing picture in SDR or HDR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I've read all of the JVC thread as well and had planned on getting the N7. I re-evaluated that decision when reading about the problems the line-up was having. The main reason I changed my mind though was the realisation that I could buy the N7 (and thereby upgrade my projector) or I could buy the Epson 6050/9400, the Yamaha 3080 a/v receiver, the Panasonic 820UB, and two SVS PB-2000's for only slightly more than it would cost for the N7 alone. Although I know the N7 throws a better picture (when it's not having green and purple problems), getting Atmos, a 4K player, and bass upgrade, not to mention the picture quality increase the 6050 will have from my 14 year old Epson 2000 projector, it was a no-brainer to skip this first JVC low price jump to 4K projectors iteration. A couple of generations down the line I will revisit getting a JVC.


----------



## Savatage316

I've loved and used the crap out of my 5040ub since it launched. I haven't looked or kept up with anything since, but I'm curious what at similar price point these days gives it a run for its money and or is better?

This has done awesome for gaming, but as a gamer I'm always lookin for even better after years go by. 

Or are these epsons still tops at the price point?


----------



## latet

SuperMiguel said:


> Yup I went with ruipro. Just ordered the one you linked. I'll update on my results Friday. I got the braided version


A braided Ruipro?? No such thing exists that I am aware of...


----------



## SuperMiguel

So after trying multiple cables and multiple settings it turned out to be the projector, i rebooted to factory settings, and immediately went into 4k HDR.... im not sure which setting it was, but it was doing so.


----------



## ShadowBoy

SuperMiguel said:


> I didnt do the financing part but I did buy it. Lol one of my local (20miles away) had it. Just left the store with it. I really hope its better than mine ht3550 lol I will be comparing them tonight. Any suggestion on ceiling mount??


Just out of curiosity, why do your posts have numbers and punctuation symbols in place of letters?


----------



## ShadowBoy

latet said:


> A braided Ruipro?? No such thing exists that I am aware of...


I haven't sen it either. This link https://www.amazon.com/FURUI-Braide...r+cable&qid=1561790237&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2
to something called Furui has the braided cables. Maybe that's what he bought.


----------



## SuperMiguel

ShadowBoy said:


> Just out of curiosity, why do your posts have numbers and punctuation symbols in place of letters?


I believe that when you you use the mobile site, the reply goes crazy


----------



## SuperMiguel

ShadowBoy said:


> I haven't sen it either. This link https://www.amazon.com/FURUI-Braide...r+cable&qid=1561790237&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2
> to something called Furui has the braided cables. Maybe that's what he bought.


Correct, my comment doesnt make any sense unless you read what i replied too


----------



## latet

SuperMiguel said:


> I believe that when you you use the mobile site, the reply goes crazy


Use Tapatalk...


----------



## SuperMiguel

latet said:


> Use Tapatalk...


Yap installed it

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

With all of the discussion about the environmental impact (room not nature) on picture quality, how many people are using an acoustically transparent (AT) screen with this projector? If I remember correctly, an AT screen reduces the brightness of the image due to the perforations in the screen.


----------



## Mike-in-TX

For 6050 owners, is it a good practice to test the spare bulb before storing it away.


----------



## Liquid$team

Mike-in-TX said:


> For 6050 owners, is it a good practice to test the spare bulb before storing it away.


I certainly didn't and wouldn't but I do wonder what Epson would do 5 years from now if the bulb did turn out to be faulty.


----------



## DocOrange88

jeahrens said:


> To be fair the NX5 hits about ~90% of P3. The 5050/6050 will hit more with its filter but the hit to light output I've seen reported makes the filter a less than optimal option. The street pricing on the NX5 isn't twice the Epson. The NX7 street pricing is about twice the price though.
> 
> I do agree that the Epson is an excellent price/perf unit though.


The street price is 2800 for the 5050 so about double for the NX5 and if you have to pay tax more.


----------



## DocOrange88

ShadowBoy said:


> I've read all of the JVC thread as well and had planned on getting the N7. I re-evaluated that decision when reading about the problems the line-up was having. The main reason I changed my mind though was the realisation that I could buy the N7 (and thereby upgrade my projector) or I could buy the Epson 6050/9400, the Yamaha 3080 a/v receiver, the Panasonic 820UB, and two SVS PB-2000's for only slightly more than it would cost for the N7 alone. Although I know the N7 throws a better picture (when it's not having green and purple problems), getting Atmos, a 4K player, and bass upgrade, not to mention the picture quality increase the 6050 will have from my 14 year old Epson 2000 projector, it was a no-brainer to skip this first JVC low price jump to 4K projectors iteration. A couple of generations down the line I will revisit getting a JVC.


I think you'd be better off still price wise with the 5050 there is no effective difference. It's just marketing to sell a black projector.


----------



## DocOrange88

plain fan said:


> With all of the discussion about the environmental impact (room not nature) on picture quality, how many people are using an acoustically transparent (AT) screen with this projector? If I remember correctly, an AT screen reduces the brightness of the image due to the perforations in the screen.


I'm using a nano perf from Carl's room. Most high end rooms will use an AT screen. I do think I'm at an advantage my screen gain is 1.1 but I do lose some light but still gaining at least the loss and maybe then some. Also you can put lights behind the screen 🤪 and show off your speakers.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

SuperMiguel said:


> I believe that when you you use the mobile site, the reply goes crazy


The letter S only. Read the gibberish as an "s" and it'll start to make a little sense.


----------



## plain fan

I currently have an AT screen with a gain of 1.0 and I was curious if a loss of light from the AT screen should factor into a JVC versus Epson decision.


----------



## dr bill

plain fan said:


> With all of the discussion about the environmental impact (room not nature) on picture quality, how many people are using an acoustically transparent (AT) screen with this projector? If I remember correctly, an AT screen reduces the brightness of the image due to the perforations in the screen.


I have a 150" *Seymour Center Stage XD AT screen*. Huge upgrade from my previous non-AT screen. Nice to not see any front speakers when you come into the home theater.


http://www.seymourav.com/screens.asp


The 50505 is plenty bright, even at Eco setting.


----------



## Luminated67

dr bill said:


> I have a 150" *Seymour Center Stage XD AT screen*. Huge upgrade from my previous non-AT screen. Nice to not see any front speakers when you come into the home theater.
> 
> 
> http://www.seymourav.com/screens.asp
> 
> 
> The 50505 is plenty bright, even at Eco setting.


I’d love to go the whole hidden speaker route but due to the shape of room and placement of a door on the screen wall it’s not an option for me. Plus I would have to down grade my speakers by quite a margin to be able to hide them.


----------



## Viche

LIPLASMA said:


> Quick question from a rookie projector owner.
> 
> I purchased a 6050UB and I am in the process of purchasing the screen now. I want to purchase a 133" 16x9 screen but according to projector central I need a throw distance of 17'8" at 1.55x zoom and I only have 16'10". So if I use a 133" at 16'10" it says I would be at 1.62x zoom will this have a negative impact on picture quality?





CallingMrBenzo said:


> I would say I lost contrast and sharpness having to go with more zoom on my screen set up.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Surprised you lost contrast. From what I have been told...
Max Zoom will give you: brightest image, max ANSI and min On-OFF contrast. 
Min Zoom will give you: dimmer image, min ANSI and max On-OFF contrast.

I would think ANSI would affect appearance of contrast more than On-Off so more zoom should incease the appearance of contrast. 

Either way, the difference between 1.55 and 1.62 is so small, I wouldn't think it would be very noticeable.


----------



## LIPLASMA

Thanks for the information from all.

I have actually decided to go with a 120" screen not due to the zoom factor but other issues in the room. I had actually ordered 128" from Seymour screens on Friday, but will be changing the order on Monday to 120" so should be good on throw distance now. 

The screen size and screen manufacturer have actually been the hardest choices in the whole theater process not what i figured when I first started planning.

I went with Seymour because I had heard good things about them and I was going with a custom size at 128" but now that I am going with 120" everybody makes those. So the doubt sinks in again :frown: but think I will try to stick with Seymour they have been very easy to work with up to this point.


----------



## skylarlove1999

LIPLASMA said:


> Thanks for the information from all.
> 
> 
> 
> I have actually decided to go with a 120" screen not due to the zoom factor but other issues in the room. I had actually ordered 128" from Seymour screens on Friday, but will be changing the order on Monday to 120" so should be good on throw distance now.
> 
> 
> 
> The screen size and screen manufacturer have actually been the hardest choices in the whole theater process not what i figured when I first started planning.
> 
> 
> 
> I went with Seymour because I had heard good things about them and I was going with a custom size at 128" but now that I am going with 120" everybody makes those. So the doubt sinks in again :frown: but think I will try to stick with Seymour they have been very easy to work with up to this point.


I have had my Seymour screen for two years now and it gives an amazing picture. Chris has been a pleasure to work with as has been his sales team. I have the Seymour glacier white perfectly smooth screen non acoustic transparent 120 in.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## LIPLASMA

Viche said:


> Surprised you lost contrast. From what I have been told...
> Max Zoom will give you: brightest image, max ANSI and min On-OFF contrast.
> Min Zoom will give you: dimmer image, min ANSI and max On-OFF contrast.
> 
> I would think ANSI would affect appearance of contrast more than On-Off so more zoom should incease the appearance of contrast.
> 
> Either way, the difference between 1.55 and 1.62 is so small, I wouldn't think it would be very noticeable.





skylarlove1999 said:


> I have had my Seymour screen for two years now and it gives an amazing picture. Chris has been a pleasure to work with as has been his sales team. I have the Seymour glacier white perfectly smooth screen non acoustic transparent 120 in.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That is the exact screen I am getting. I am considering getting the masking panels also just going back and forth if it would be worth it.


----------



## skylarlove1999

LIPLASMA said:


> That is the exact screen I am getting. I am considering getting the masking panels also just going back and forth if it would be worth it.


I went with the masking panels I definitely think it was worth the extra money









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## LIPLASMA

skylarlove1999 said:


> I went with the masking panels I definitely think it was worth the extra money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Did you get the 2 piece or 4 piece masking panels? Steve mentioned they can do either one?


----------



## skylarlove1999

LIPLASMA said:


> Did you get the 2 piece or 4 piece masking panels? Steve mentioned they can do either one?


When I bought two years ago they only had the four-piece masking panels. I would have gone with the one piece of top and One Piece below if that had been an option just easier than taking all four pieces on and off when you switch from 16.9 content to 239 content

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> I went with the masking panels I definitely think it was worth the extra money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Skylar Switch up your screen shots buddy I know you have many more to show off


----------



## LIPLASMA

skylarlove1999 said:


> When I bought two years ago they only had the four-piece masking panels. I would have gone with the one piece of top and One Piece below if that had been an option just easier than taking all four pieces on and off when you switch from 16.9 content to 239 content
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The other option they gave me was a single bottom piece and then you would just shift the picture up when you go wide, what do you think of that instead of a top and bottom?


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Skylar Switch up your screen shots buddy I know you have many more to show off


Sorry I was just getting a little lazy LOL is a little more variety









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Sorry I was just getting a little lazy LOL is a little more variety
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




you certainly have been lazy. In honor of the Lone Survivor anniversary


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> you certainly have been lazy. In honor of the Lone Survivor anniversary


Just watch that last night amazing Dolby Atmos and 4K

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Just watch that last night amazing Dolby Atmos and 4K
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




DTS-X and yes it is. I only watched about 20 minutes but fantastic picture for sure


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> DTS-X and yes it is. I only watched about 20 minutes but fantastic picture for sure


You're totally correct. Did you make it to the Main shooting battle going down the side of the mountain and how visceral them tumbling down the mountain is obviously all the gunshots as well I mean it physically hurts to listen to them going down the mountain

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> You're totally correct. Did you make it to the Main shooting battle going down the side of the mountain and how visceral them tumbling down the mountain is obviously all the gunshots as well I mean it physically hurts to listen to them going down the mountain
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Tapped out before that. Saw the initial part of the engagement. Missed my sealed 18’s during the Chinook insertion scene with the under 10HZ pressure


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Tapped out before that. Saw the initial part of the engagement. Missed my sealed 18’s during the Chinook insertion scene with the under 10HZ pressure


Yeah those chinooks felt like I was sitting in them. Wait until you get to the running gun battle on the mountain side. Unreal especially when they start getting blasted by the RPG. Then later on when the helos get hit by the RPG and go down.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## blake18

skylarlove1999 said:


> CallingMrBenzo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Tapped out before that. Saw the initial part of the engagement. Missed my sealed 18â€™️s during the Chinook insertion scene with the under 10HZ pressure
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah those chinooks felt like I was sitting in them. Wait until you get to the running gun battle on the mountain side. Unreal especially when they start getting blasted by the RPG. Then later on when the helos get hit by the RPG and go down.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Okay, I'm totally renting this now.


----------



## jeahrens

DocOrange88 said:


> The street price is 2800 for the 5050 so about double for the NX5 and if you have to pay tax more.


Although the forum forbids discussing street/dealer pricing I can assure you the NX5 is not twice the figure you quote. Only the MSRP is.


----------



## ckronengold

skylarlove1999 said:


> I went with the masking panels I definitely think it was worth the extra money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Why does it look like you've got a massive keystone / trapazoid problem?


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Why does it look like you've got a massive keystone / trapazoid problem?


Do tell me more please? Maybe I do and I just don't know it. Being serious. I think the picture looks amazing but maybe I just don't know the difference. Picture taken with no lights no flash from my phone.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Why does it look like you've got a massive keystone / trapazoid problem?


Do you notice same thing in these pictures now you have me paranoid LOL









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DocOrange88

jeahrens said:


> Although the forum forbids discussing street/dealer pricing I can assure you the NX5 is not twice the figure you quote. Only the MSRP is.


Well, that's fine but from marketing perspective it's not helping them be considered.


----------



## jeahrens

DocOrange88 said:


> Well, that's fine but from marketing perspective it's not helping them be considered.


Yeah I don't think anyone appreciates the MSRP vs dealer pricing dance that happens with a lot of high end AV products. But I don't see it changing any time soon. I'd hope by this point most people that are looking at products in these price brackets know this is a thing. Otherwise they are paying far too much in a lot of cases. Epson's up front pricing is certainly refreshing and welcome. They've positioned themselves well from a value/performance perspective.


----------



## DocOrange88

jeahrens said:


> Yeah I don't think anyone appreciates the MSRP vs dealer pricing dance that happens with a lot of high end AV products. But I don't see it changing any time soon. I'd hope by this point most people that are looking at products in these price brackets know this is a thing. Otherwise they are paying far too much in a lot of cases. Epson's up front pricing is certainly refreshing and welcome. They've positioned themselves well from a value/performance perspective.


Up front pricing and Best Buy offering 0% for 24 months...keep that money in the bank earning interest!


----------



## ckronengold

skylarlove1999 said:


> Do you notice same thing in these pictures now you have me paranoid LOL


Football pic: yes, absolutely. The image is way wider at the top than on the bottom. 

Same for the X-men pic with the red head in the front.

Looks like the same for that sunset pic, but I can't see the bottom left of hte image. But the bottom right definitely looks like its narrower than the top. 

Same with Avengers, but I can only see the bottom left, not the bottom right.


----------



## AlexBPM

Listed my 6050 for sale in the classifieds, even in low power it's a bit too bright for my liking on my circa 2005 Da-lite High Power screen. Saving up for a JVC RS3000. Dimmer, and better contrast


----------



## prometheusdt

*Is there a difference between 4K and 1080p?*

Is there a difference between 4K and 1080p?

I just got my first projector (Epson 5050ub) with a Silver Ticket 120" (STR-169120). I have Windows 10 text scaled to 250% if that makes any difference. My first reaction is that the texts are not very clear. As I type this from 12 feet away, the sharpness is equivalent to my 70" 1080p tv. It's nowhere near as crisp as my 70" 4K tv. After I loaded Destiny 2, I really couldn't tell much of a difference. Below are the comparison pictures with my iPhone X:

https://imgur.com/a/fwKuvGN

The steps are different, but I think that's mainly due to the ambient lighting within the game shining during my first shot (4k) and not being there on my second shot (1080p). If you ignore the steps and look at the character model, there's hardly a difference. The texture quality setting is on "Highest" in-game for both shots. I also loaded up Heroes of the Storm, and the results are the same. A friend of mine also looked at both games, and couldn't tell a difference. I can take some pictures for that game as well if anyone is interested. 

Like I mentioned earlier, I have a Vizio 70" 1080p as well as Vizio 70" 4k, and I can spot the difference between those two in a heartbeat; It's night and day. Is this lack of picture quality difference for a projector normal? Is there a setting that I'm missing here?


Edit 1: I went ahead and took 2 pictures of a different game with my camera (iPhone X) just in case Destiny 2 has a bug with resolution changes. To make sure I keep the variations as low as possible, I used a tripod and uploaded it to a site that doesn't compress the image. Below are the results:

https://lensdump.com/i/WPI3d9 (4K)
https://lensdump.com/i/WPIsio (1080p)
https://lensdump.com/i/WPI4M2
https://lensdump.com/i/WPIKav

Edit 2: Since not everyone plays games and the games may have issues with rendering 4k, I took two screenshots of a movie:

https://lensdump.com/i/2160p.WFphO0 (4K)
https://lensdump.com/i/WF66oc (1080p)

The screenshot files are unedited and large (you'll have to click on "load full resolution" on the website). I'm using MPC-HC and madvr to play the movies. Both files are remux.

1. Am I blind to not see a difference?
2. If there isn't a difference, then this isn't normal right?
3. Is anyone able to upload their screenshots of 4k vs 1080p? I want to see if this is normal or if there's something wrong my setup/settings.


----------



## DocOrange88

ckronengold said:


> Football pic: yes, absolutely. The image is way wider at the top than on the bottom.
> 
> Same for the X-men pic with the red head in the front.
> 
> Looks like the same for that sunset pic, but I can't see the bottom left of hte image. But the bottom right definitely looks like its narrower than the top.
> 
> Same with Avengers, but I can only see the bottom left, not the bottom right.


I don't know how big his screen is, but it looks like the cameras perspective/lens is causing that visual warp. He's not taking the picture square on, which by default will cause a visual warp to the image taken.


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## skylarlove1999

DocOrange88 said:


> I don't know how big his screen is, but it looks like the cameras perspective/lens is causing that visual warp. He's not taking the picture square on, which by default will cause a visual warp to the image taken.


You are correct sir I'm not taking the picture Square on sorry if things don't look like they should

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Phatmac

Does anyone have issues with lens memory? Every time I switch back from 16x9 to 2:35:1 I have to manually shift the image up about 2 feet. The left and right sides seem to be fine. I read on the 5040ub forum that some people complained by being off by a few inches or so but not sure why mine is so large of an offset...


----------



## Joe.Swirls

I'm considering strongly to pick up a 5050UB today but I'd like to ask the groups opinion on a few things.

Background: I've had a 5040UB for 2 years, went through the power supply issues, currently on my 3rd one for the last 15 months so I guess the P/S is ok. It's used as my primary display w/120" Dark Energy Screen combating ambient light during the day and serious movie watching by night.

Questions:
1) The two bulbs I've had on this last projector have lasted 900 hours & 1400 hours. These are genuine straight from Epson bulbs. Basically my projector eats bulbs it feels like and is the main reason for me considering a new projector. Anyone else have this issue or think I should expect more of the same with a 5050UB?

2) Is the 5050UB notably brighter/less bright in Natural or Bright Cinema mode than the 5040UB? These are the modes I use mostly on my 5040UB to combat ambient light.

3) I kind of gave up on HDR w/the 5040UB (granted I never upgraded the firmware so at this point the ball is in my court). Does the 5050UB detect HDR content or is it still up to me to know that whatever Netflix show I'm watching is HDR and manually change settings to match?

4) Am I going to need to get a new HDMI cable? I have a 40ft 18gbps monoprice cabernet cable (2 years old). 

5) Should I just get a 4010? It's $1000 cheaper and I think the same brightness basically? I'm worried I'd miss the black levels at night, though. Thoughts?


----------



## Krbass

skylarlove1999 said:


> You are correct sir I'm not taking the picture Square on sorry if things don't look like they should
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I may have missed it but what size screen and type? 

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Krbass said:


> I may have missed it but what size screen and type?
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


Seymour 120 inch 16x9 Glacier White Perfectly Smooth with black masking panels when viewing 2:39 to 1 content.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Phatmac said:


> Does anyone have issues with lens memory? Every time I switch back from 16x9 to 2:35:1 I have to manually shift the image up about 2 feet. The left and right sides seem to be fine. I read on the 5040ub forum that some people complained by being off by a few inches or so but not sure why mine is so large of an offset...


Can’t say I have, I don’t have both sizes of screen or masking at the moment but I did try it out and when I switch it’s about 0.5cm off to the right each time that’s all.


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## Viche

jeahrens said:


> Although the forum forbids discussing street/dealer pricing I can assure you the NX5 is not twice the figure you quote. Only the MSRP is.


 not to get off topic, but what is the input lag on the NX5? 5050 is 23ms, correct?


----------



## jeahrens

Viche said:


> not to get off topic, but what is the input lag on the NX5? 5050 is 23ms, correct?


The NX lineup is in the 35-40ms range I believe. Not sure what the 5050 measures.


----------



## jeahrens

Since the NX5 has been brought up a fair amount in here, just wanted to post that B-stock pricing on the NX5 is actually very close to pricing on the 5050. Not sure if I can post actual pricing, but I'd reach out to a dealer if you're lurking in here debating on both.

And no this post isn't suggesting that anyone should dump their excellent 5050 nor does it change my opinion the 5050 represents an outstanding value. Just throwing it out there in case it helps someone researching options.


----------



## Luminated67

jeahrens said:


> Since the NX5 has been brought up a fair amount in here, just wanted to post that B-stock pricing on the NX5 is actually very close to pricing on the 5050. Not sure if I can post actual pricing, but I'd reach out to a dealer if you're lurking in here debating on both.
> 
> And no this post isn't suggesting that anyone should dump their excellent 5050 nor does it change my opinion the 5050 represents an outstanding value. Just throwing it out there in case it helps someone researching options.


I’d never buy a refurb unit, it’s something I’d never ever do.


----------



## jeahrens

Luminated67 said:


> I’d never buy a refurb unit, it’s something I’d never ever do.


Certainly valid. These do have a good warranty and backing. So others may find it a worthwhile option.


----------



## DocOrange88

Luminated67 said:


> I’d never buy a refurb unit, it’s something I’d never ever do.


Referbs are generally fine so long as the warranty is up to snuff. That being said the NX5 is really a side step sort of, lose DCI P3 and brightness. Really the true step would have to come with the NX7. The 5050UB is at a huge price advantage and brightness advantage still. 

I sit about 20 feet from my 140 inch screen. Gains in resolution are largely likely to have losses and adding an AT screen eats some of that as well. Color/Contrast and brightness are king. The 5050 feels very, very close to Dolby theaters image.


----------



## Viche

jeahrens said:


> Certainly valid. These do have a good warranty and backing. So others may find it a worthwhile option.



I always wonder whether or not companies really "refurbish" anything when it comes to small defects. I've heard tons of stories of people receiving refurbished units that had issues. I think it's just cheaper to send projectors with small issues out to people in hopes that they won't be so anal as to notice. Worse comes to worse, they can just send them another refurb or a new unit eventually. 



Obviously this isn't the case if something catastrophic like a power source fails. But then you have to wonder, if they replace the power source, how much wear and tear was there on the other part so the projector?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

DocOrange88 said:


> Referbs are generally fine so long as the warranty is up to snuff. That being said the NX5 is really a side step sort of, lose DCI P3 and brightness. Really the true step would have to come with the NX7. The 5050UB is at a huge price advantage and brightness advantage still.
> 
> 
> 
> I sit about 20 feet from my 140 inch screen. Gains in resolution are largely likely to have losses and adding an AT screen eats some of that as well. Color/Contrast and brightness are king. The 5050 feels very, very close to Dolby theaters image.




Disagree on the NX-5


----------



## Bob McLaughlin

I just bought this projector and set it up with a new Sony UBP-X700 UHD Disk player with a new 4k capable active HDMI (properly aligned). So far I've just played the first 10 minutes of Justice League (a 4k disk) and the results were better than regular BD, but a little underwhelming. I'm not sure if I am actually seeing HDR on the content that I'm playing, is there a display mode to let me know if I am? 

I left most of the projector/player settings on "Auto" until I get enough hours on the projector to really calibrate and tinker. I do have Dolby Vision turned on in the disk player, is this even necessary since I believe this projector doesn't have Dolby Vision? Will it just auto switch it over to HDR10? Do I really need to crank up the HDR setting on the projector or am I missing something?

Sorry this is a lot of disjointed questions but it has been a while since I've upgraded my equipment so my learning curve is a bit steep when it comes to HDR!


----------



## jeahrens

DocOrange88 said:


> Referbs are generally fine so long as the warranty is up to snuff. That being said the NX5 is really a side step sort of, lose DCI P3 and brightness. Really the true step would have to come with the NX7. The 5050UB is at a huge price advantage and brightness advantage still.
> 
> I sit about 20 feet from my 140 inch screen. Gains in resolution are largely likely to have losses and adding an AT screen eats some of that as well. Color/Contrast and brightness are king. The 5050 feels very, very close to Dolby theaters image.


The 5050 only has more P3 coverage if you engage the filter, which I believe drops the lumens to around 1000. So with larger screens it would be fairly dim. The NX5 calibrates to ~1600 lumens with 90+% P3 coverage.

The Epson can get brighter overall, but medium bulb calibrated is about the same as the NX5 in high bulb. Noise wise the NX isn't bad in high bulb. Still for very large screens the Epson does have more oomph.

The NX would have noticeably better contrast, native 4K, better lens (capable of resolving 4K) and automatic tone mapping. In your case the seating distance to your screen probably would not show much resolution difference, but others certainly may sit close enough to notice.

Whether that makes it a better buy is up to the consumer. As has been pointed out before not everyone is going to see something here to get them to choose the more expensive option. But depending on your needs and room, it may be more than a side grade. And there being less than a $1000 difference in price certainly makes it more of an option.


----------



## DigitalAV

jeahrens said:


> The NX5 calibrates to ~1600 lumens with 90+% P3 coverage.


Doesn't the 5050ub calibrate to about the same lumens and P3 coverage when not using the filter?


----------



## jeahrens

DigitalAV said:


> Doesn't the 5050ub calibrate to about the same lumens and P3 coverage when not using the filter?


The 5050 is a bit higher in output set to medium bulb without filter actually (around 100 lumens). I skimmed Art's review and wasn't able to quickly find a non-filter P3 coverage percentage so I didn't have the data to give a direct comparison. The figure quoted was more to show the NX5 has good P3 coverage and output even without a filter vs. implying the 5050 does not.


----------



## DigitalAV

jeahrens said:


> The figure quoted was more to show the NX5 has good P3 coverage and output even without a filter vs. implying the 5050 does not.


Yep, totally. I just couldn't remember how deep the 5050's P3 coverage went without the filter. I *think* I remember seeing somewhere it was around 90% but I can't find it. I'll keep looking & throw it in this post if I do.

EDIT: For reference, here it is, buried super deep in Art's review:

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-advanced-calibration/

Scroll to the bottom (CMS SETTINGS FOR BRIGHTEST MODE 4K/HDR – NATURAL):



> As expected, the 4K/HDR P3 color accuracy is not as good using Natural mode (no color filter). Red and blue max out at about 90% saturation and surprisingly the rest of the colors do hit or come very close to their 100% targets but it’s their linearity that is problematic as you see in the CMS charts. Also, their luminance levels are all very low (not shown). Calibration does little to fix these errors. What calibration does improve is the hue and brightness levels (to a small extent) but overall there is minimal difference pre & post calibration.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



DigitalAV said:


> Yep, totally. I just couldn't remember how deep the 5050's P3 coverage went without the filter. I *think* I remember seeing somewhere it was around 90% but I can't find it. I'll keep looking & throw it in this post if I do.




As far as I know I’m the only professionally calibrated 5050UB stateside and mine was done by Chad B. He said the filter robbed too many lumens for a good HDR experience in his mind so we calibrated HDR in Natural mode and got 85.6% P3 coverage.

Chad has calibrated both and said the NX-5 is a DEFINITE step up everywhere in performance.


----------



## LIPLASMA

CallingMrBenzo said:


> As far as I know I’m the only professionally calibrated 5050UB stateside and mine was done by Chad B. He said the filter robbed too many lumens for a good HDR experience in his mind so we calibrated HDR in Natural mode and got 85.6% P3 coverage.
> 
> Chad has calibrated both and said the NX-5 is a DEFINITE step up everywhere in performance.


I watched the NX5, NX7 and 6050 at my dealers on the same screen. I felt the picture difference between the NX5 and 6050 was not worth the price difference, in my case, and was very subtle. I was offered 25% off the 6050 and 30% off NX5 and choose the 6050 when figuring in the discounts the NX5 was still substantially more.. Now with the NX7 I saw a much more pronounced difference compared to both the NX5 and 6050 and if that was in my budget I would have chosen it. Just my 2 cents.

Side note all 3 were on a 110" screen and were being fed by a Panasonic 820 the viewing environment was probably 95% light controlled but not pitch black.


----------



## jeahrens

LIPLASMA said:


> I watched the NX5, NX7 and 6050 at my dealers on the same screen. I felt the picture difference between the NX5 and 6050 was not worth the price difference, in my case, and was very subtle. I was offered 25% off the 6050 and 30% off NX5 and choose the 6050 when figuring in the discounts the NX5 was still substantially more.. Now with the NX7 I saw a much more pronounced difference compared to both the NX5 and 6050 and if that was in my budget I would have chosen it. Just my 2 cents.
> 
> Side note all 3 were on a 110" screen and were being fed by a Panasonic 820 the viewing environment was probably 95% light controlled but not pitch black.


Can't go wrong evaluating all 3 yourself and going from there. *YOU* are the one spending the money and enjoying the product.


----------



## DunMunro

Bob McLaughlin said:


> I just bought this projector and set it up with a new Sony UBP-X700 UHD Disk player with a new 4k capable active HDMI (properly aligned). So far I've just played the first 10 minutes of Justice League (a 4k disk) and the results were better than regular BD, but a little underwhelming. I'm not sure if I am actually seeing HDR on the content that I'm playing, is there a display mode to let me know if I am?
> 
> I left most of the projector/player settings on "Auto" until I get enough hours on the projector to really calibrate and tinker. I do have Dolby Vision turned on in the disk player, is this even necessary since I believe this projector doesn't have Dolby Vision? Will it just auto switch it over to HDR10? Do I really need to crank up the HDR setting on the projector or am I missing something?
> 
> Sorry this is a lot of disjointed questions but it has been a while since I've upgraded my equipment so my learning curve is a bit steep when it comes to HDR!


Don't have the HC5050 but I do have an X700. AIUI, the X700 should have DV off and HDR on when outputting to an non-DV HDR device. Having DV on can result in an incorrect (mainly darker) display.


----------



## Luminated67

jeahrens said:


> The 5050 only has more P3 coverage if you engage the filter, which I believe drops the lumens to around 1000. So with larger screens it would be fairly dim. The NX5 calibrates to ~1600 lumens with 90+% P3 coverage.
> 
> The Epson can get brighter overall, but medium bulb calibrated is about the same as the NX5 in high bulb. Noise wise the NX isn't bad in high bulb. Still for very large screens the Epson does have more oomph.
> 
> The NX would have noticeably better contrast, native 4K, better lens (capable of resolving 4K) and automatic tone mapping. In your case the seating distance to your screen probably would not show much resolution difference, but others certainly may sit close enough to notice.
> 
> Whether that makes it a better buy is up to the consumer. As has been pointed out before not everyone is going to see something here to get them to choose the more expensive option. But depending on your needs and room, it may be more than a side grade. And there being less than a $1000 difference in price certainly makes it more of an option.


I am familiar with a couple of the guys on the UK forum who witnessed the NX5 vs the 9400 and said the Epson was as good if not better so I’m not entirely convinced the basic 4K JVC is any real improvement apart from a sharper image, definitely not worth the additional expense this side of the pond.


----------



## LIPLASMA

jeahrens said:


> Can't go wrong evaluating all 3 yourself and going from there. *YOU* are the one spending the money and enjoying the product.


Agreed, everyone if possible needs to see and evaluate for themselves. I know unfortunately in many parts of the country that is impossible so that's why I posted my observations. I think without seeing any of the 3 side by side nobody would be disappointed in any of them. They all 3 throw a great picture.


----------



## Kranthi Vatti

Need help with brightness for 5050 and 5040. 
I have a 150 inch screen in a basement. The walls are not black velvet but I am
In the process of making the first 6-8 feet from the screen black by way of curtains and other things. I have a 5050 and just now ordered a refurbished 5040. The price difference is almost 2000$. 
My question is even though when 5050 isn’t rated at 2600 and 5040 at 2500, when I plug-in my numbers into projector central calculator for both with the zoom at widest. And projector as close as possible to screen, I get a rating of 40 for 5040 and 32 for 5050. So is the 5040 more bright in calibrated mode than the 5050?? One of the issues I have with 5050 that I use now is some times I feel it’s not bright. Of course this I compare with a top of the line QLED and OLED so I know it not fair but me and probably everyone prefer a brighter picture for a similar color accuracy. Even though there is lot of HDR content that’s not main stream yet. So 90% of what I watch is HD and UHD.


----------



## Bob McLaughlin

DunMunro said:


> Don't have the HC5050 but I do have an X700. AIUI, the X700 should have DV off and HDR on when outputting to an non-DV HDR device. Having DV on can result in an incorrect (mainly darker) display.


Thank you for the tip! I tried that setting and still didn't see a huge improvement, so I checked the signal info and saw it was still putting out SDR even when I was playing a 4k disk. That's when I realized I overlooked a very basic thing: my receiver doesn't pass through a 4k HDR signal! 

So when I bypassed the receiver (at least for the video signal, the audio I can still run through it because the X700 has a supplemental audio-only HDMI out) finally I got to see a true 4k HDR picture, now that's the dramatic improvement I was looking for!

Now I'm wondering if I should bother getting a new receiver...bypassing it seems to work just fine.


----------



## Dreathlock

At this Point i am not sure if i should just wait for the next version. (5060?) with hopefully an 4K FI and maybe higher resolution. Im confident that they will announce something at IFA in September.


----------



## Luminated67

Dreathlock said:


> At this Point i am not sure if i should just wait for the next version. (5060?) with hopefully an 4K FI and maybe higher resolution. Im confident that they will announce something at IFA in September.


If 4K native be also ready for a significant price hike because this doesn't come cheap.


----------



## JCrowe86

Anyone in here jump to the 5050 from the 5040? Thinking about making the move but not sure if it's worth it.


----------



## Luminated67

JCrowe86 said:


> Anyone in here jump to the 5050 from the 5040? Thinking about making the move but not sure if it's worth it.


Those are US models, over here it's 9300 and 9400. Not sure what model the 9300 equivalent so in the US but I do know that the 9400 appears to be the 6050 based on the spec of both machine so it's slightly above the 5050.


----------



## jeahrens

Luminated67 said:


> I am familiar with a couple of the guys on the UK forum who witnessed the NX5 vs the 9400 and said the Epson was as good if not better so I’m not entirely convinced the basic 4K JVC is any real improvement apart from a sharper image, definitely not worth the additional expense this side of the pond.


Well over 3 times the native contrast is going to be visible. Whether it's enough along with the other pluses to sway a purchase or not is up to the potential buyer. A fair number of professional calibrators and reviewers (who make no money on what is sold) have weighed in on this and seem to favor the NX5. 

Again I'm not following the thread to try to sway anyone to return their 5050 or take the wind out of it sails. I'm here to follow the product as it's more than likely the projector I will recommend to people who ask because of the price point it hits (and the performance it offers at this level). Granted the NX5 B-stock is certainly something I would tell them to consider if they can stretch their budget a bit. But B-stock has it's own potential issues and isn't always available, so the Epson remains a clear choice against the current competition at this level.


----------



## Bob McLaughlin

Has anyone tinkered with the Alaric settings using a medium/eco power mode? That high power mode is just too loud for me. I have a completely dark room so I don't need all that much brightness.


----------



## Luminated67

jeahrens said:


> Well over 3 times the native contrast is going to be visible. Whether it's enough along with the other pluses to sway a purchase or not is up to the potential buyer. A fair number of professional calibrators and reviewers (who make no money on what is sold) have weighed in on this and seem to favor the NX5.


Both machines were calibrated in the exact same room (controlled light) and they were all surprised not to see a huge difference in the contrast and one of those guys is a JVC owner so you tell me?

You also need to remember that in the UK the JVC is more than double the price of the Epson. In fact one of the guys who had a NX5 on order actually cancelled his order and bought a LS10500 instead.



jeahrens said:


> Again I'm not following the thread to try to sway anyone to return their 5050 or take the wind out of it sails. I'm here to follow the product as it's more than likely the projector I will recommend to people who ask because of the price point it hits (and the performance it offers at this level). Granted the NX5 B-stock is certainly something I would tell them to consider if they can stretch their budget a bit. But B-stock has it's own potential issues and isn't always available, so the Epson remains a clear choice against the current competition at this level.


Obviously price points of these two brands are vastly different in the US compared to the UK. The guy that calibrated mine didn’t feel the NX5 justified its price here.


----------



## Luminated67

Bob McLaughlin said:


> Has anyone tinkered with the Alaric settings using a medium/eco power mode? That high power mode is just too loud for me. I have a completely dark room so I don't need all that much brightness.


What’s your screen size and how far away is the projector from the screen. Mine isn’t out of ECO mode and in SDR Natural setting the Iris is closed down to -16.


----------



## ScudDawg

Bob McLaughlin said:


> Has anyone tinkered with the Alaric settings using a medium/eco power mode? That high power mode is just too loud for me. I have a completely dark room so I don't need all that much brightness.


I agree 100%, I use medium lamp and bump up the HDR slider to 2 or 1 when I watch HDR and gives me a pretty good picture. High power mode on this thing sounds like a dust buster to me during quiet scenes. I have mine mounted about 4 feet behind first row seats.


----------



## jeahrens

Luminated67 said:


> Both machines were calibrated in the exact same room (controlled light) and they were all surprised not to see a huge difference in the contrast and one of those guys is a JVC owner so you tell me?
> 
> You also need to remember that in the UK the JVC is more than double the price of the Epson. In fact one of the guys who had a NX5 on order actually cancelled his order and bought a LS10500 instead.


I wasn't there so I can't tell you why that comparison concluded what it did. All I can tell you is that the measured contrast is around 3 times higher on the NX5 and that is certainly visible to the eye. Whether moving from 7-8,000:1 to 25,000:1 is considered "huge" probably depends on the individual. And the question of if that difference is enough to justify buying one unit over another is also up to the individual.

Obviously the higher the difference in price is, the more attractive the less expensive option is going to be.


----------



## Luminated67

jeahrens said:


> I wasn't there so I can't tell you why that comparison concluded what it did. All I can tell you is that the measured contrast is around 3 times higher on the NX5 and that is certainly visible to the eye. Whether moving from 7-8,000:1 to 25,000:1 is considered "huge" probably depends on the individual. And the question of if that difference is enough to justify buying one unit over another is also up to the individual.
> 
> Obviously the higher the difference in price is, the more attractive the less expensive option is going to be.


Fun enough none of the people who seen the side by side comparison felt the NX5 hadn’t noticeably better contrast which is odd considering what has been measured, clearly something is afoot but this wasn’t just one compare in one store this was in others with the same outcome.

Well I would agree with that last statement and yet the guy who has the NX5 on order bought the LS10500 which is roughly the same price, clearly price wasn’t the issue so it must have been the overall picture that didn’t impress?


----------



## oztheatre

Luminated67 said:


> If 4K native be also ready for a significant price hike because this doesn't come cheap.


I chatted with oz rep here yesterday. They're NOT doing a native 4k machine any time soon, ie the next 5 years. They make machines that can make them money and the LS10500 has sold poorly worldwide so it's not being replaced. It doesn't need to be replaced. The 6050 is more than good enough too.


----------



## Bob McLaughlin

Luminated67 said:


> What’s your screen size and how far away is the projector from the screen. Mine isn’t out of ECO mode and in SDR Natural setting the Iris is closed down to -16.


Thanks for responding! I have 100" screen and the lens is 125" from the screen. Sorry I haven't read the entire thread yet, are your other settings similar to Alaric's? I know my projector hasn't "broken in" yet (not even close) but I found his settings tended slightly greenish on my screen.


----------



## Luminated67

Bob McLaughlin said:


> Thanks for responding! I have 100" screen and the lens is 125" from the screen. Sorry I haven't read the entire thread yet, are your other settings similar to Alaric's? I know my projector hasn't "broken in" yet (not even close) but I found his settings tended slightly greenish on my screen.


Did you try those from Projector Reviews to see if they were any better, btw screen size and distance similar to me so ECO definitely ok and I’d adjust the Iris down for SDR contain at the very least.


----------



## Bob McLaughlin

Luminated67 said:


> Did you try those from Projector Reviews to see if they were any better, btw screen size and distance similar to me so ECO definitely ok and I’d adjust the Iris down for SDR contain at the very least.


Thank you sir, I'll give that a shot. Love this helpful community!


----------



## Joe.Swirls

Kranthi Vatti said:


> Need help with brightness for 5050 and 5040.
> I have a 150 inch screen in a basement. The walls are not black velvet but I am
> In the process of making the first 6-8 feet from the screen black by way of curtains and other things. I have a 5050 and just now ordered a refurbished 5040. The price difference is almost 2000$.
> My question is even though when 5050 isn’t rated at 2600 and 5040 at 2500, when I plug-in my numbers into projector central calculator for both with the zoom at widest. And projector as close as possible to screen, I get a rating of 40 for 5040 and 32 for 5050. So is the 5040 more bright in calibrated mode than the 5050?? One of the issues I have with 5050 that I use now is some times I feel it’s not bright. Of course this I compare with a top of the line QLED and OLED so I know it not fair but me and probably everyone prefer a brighter picture for a similar color accuracy. Even though there is lot of HDR content that’s not main stream yet. So 90% of what I watch is HD and UHD.


Anyone that has had both and used them in ambient light conditions want to chime in on the 5050 brightness compared to the 5040?


----------



## skylarlove1999

oztheatre said:


> I chatted with oz rep here yesterday. They're NOT doing a native 4k machine any time soon, ie the next 5 years. They make machines that can make them money and the LS10500 has sold poorly worldwide so it's not being replaced. It doesn't need to be replaced. The 6050 is more than good enough too.


I have several sources within Epson's North American marketing team who have hinted heavily at native 4k in September 2019. All just rumors at this point one way or the other.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Bob McLaughlin said:


> Thank you sir, I'll give that a shot. Love this helpful community!


Drop me a PM and I’ll send you them if you are having trouble finding them.


----------



## jeahrens

Luminated67 said:


> Fun enough none of the people who seen the side by side comparison felt the NX5 had noticeably better contrast which is odd considering what has been measured, clearly something is afoot but this wasn’t just one compare in one store this was in others with the same outcome.
> 
> Well I would agree with that last statement and yet the guy who has the NX5 on order bought the LS10500 which is roughly the same price, clearly price wasn’t the issue so it must have been the overall picture that didn’t impress?


Other calibrators and reviewers are seeing something to prefer it. And the numbers are repeatable and verifiable. If I had to go out on a limb and speculate, I would guess that the issue we've found in the owners thread of elevated black floor when brightness is at 0 may be in play. Just as an example my unit needs -3 on brightness not to encounter this and it greatly increases contrast. This issue is new to this series. Previous JVC models did not do this.

As to the second part, the generalization is still valid. As for the one particular person buying the LS10500, laser brings it own advantages. If it were me I'm not sure I would go the laser route and forego the HDR/4K performance the 5050 brings to the table.


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have several sources within Epson's North American marketing team who have hinted heavily at native 4k in September 2019. All just rumors at this point one way or the other.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


If they do, I bet they keep the 5050/6050 as is and position the new unit up market. I can't see them just coming out with the 5050/6050 and replacing them this early in the cycle. If they could get the native 4K in the $4000-4500 range they'd put real pressure on JVC and Sony and still have enough price differential to not cannibalize the 5050/6050. Especially Sony as their entry level unit is extremely bare bones feature wise for what they are asking.

They could also move pricing down across the board and really shake things up, but that would risk upsetting the people who just bought the 5050/6050. Though a sub $2k 5050 would destroy the DLP market overnight.


----------



## Luminated67

jeahrens said:


> Other calibrators and reviewers are seeing something to prefer it. And the numbers are repeatable and verifiable. If I had to go out on a limb and speculate, I would guess that the issue we've found in the owners thread of elevated black floor when brightness is at 0 may be in play. Just as an example my unit needs -3 on brightness not to encounter this and it greatly increases contrast. This issue is new to this series. Previous JVC models did not do this.


I can't speculate on why these guys weren't impressed by the NX5 and to assume it was lack of knowledge from the dealers in setting up I'm not so sure after all the machines were all calibrated from their respective screens and environment. Maybe distance to screen played a factor in their performance?



jeahrens said:


> As to the second part, the generalization is still valid. As for the one particular person buying the LS10500, laser brings it own advantages. If it were me I'm not sure I would go the laser route and forego the HDR/4K performance the 5050 brings to the table.


Funny you should say that but the guy who calibrated mine had previously the laser JVC Z1 on longterm loan as he gets loads of projectors to evaluate and demo, in his opinion the LS10500 would be his person choice if he were to actually own a single projector despite the knowledge that more recent machines offer better resolution.

I might be wrong but I got the feeling that he felt too much importance was placed on black levels instead of the overall picture.


----------



## Alaric

Bob McLaughlin said:


> Has anyone tinkered with the Alaric settings using a medium/eco power mode? That high power mode is just too loud for me. I have a completely dark room so I don't need all that much brightness.


Yeah. Me! 
I built the bright one to see what it could do and with Scott's 165" screen in mind. I've not really needed it on my 120" screen and use it in medium with a slight tweak as if anything it is too bright for a lot of movies in my bat cave. Seem to recall it useful on incredibles 2 though, so it's a useful tool to have still. 

The accurate one alas needs the high power mode, but I'm very much of the idea that it is worth the noise hit for the performance.

Must admit that I've a few calibration ideas that I've yet to try, busy with other things. Also my cinema room is at the top of my 4 story house, it's summer in the UK which whilst not too bad at the moment, that room can get a bit warm and I've yet to figure out how to get aircon up there. Wrong windows and it's an odd shape and like a loft conversion with only one outside high level wall 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


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## SuperMiguel

out of the two main calibrations which one do you guys recommend for a non light controlled room?


----------



## Luminated67

SuperMiguel said:


> out of the two main calibrations which one do you guys recommend for a non light controlled room?


That’s impossible to advise because both were set up for bat caves.


----------



## SuperMiguel

I should really consider painting my room lol

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## oztheatre

Luminated67 said:


> Those are US models, over here it's 9300 and 9400. Not sure what model the 9300 equivalent so in the US but I do know that the 9400 appears to be the 6050 based on the spec of both machine so it's slightly above the 5050.


TW9300 is the UB5040 from 3 years ago. Maybe I had a bad sample in 9300/5040 but otherwise the 6050/9400 is a good step up in clarity, brightness and their hdr curves are good enough as are the black levels. High ansi contrast too, I think ekki said almost 500:1. A Z1 has under 200 so it has to account for something. 

Put it this way. Do you think people would just buy a smaller tv over owning this epson, if this epson was the only machine available? TV will never compare in price vs sq inches.


----------



## Alaric

SuperMiguel said:


> I should really consider painting my room lol


I'd actually say no.... Go for black velvet / velour . Way less trouble to convert back, way less time to do and actually much better for light absorption and done reasonably more aesthetic.
I've staple gunned it just at the top for most walls and let it hang down, though i can't see why a pole and draped fabric style of curtain wouldn't work pretty well for a convertible room!
Seriously, try a couple of lengths either side of the screen or just in front of your viewing and you'll be amazed at the effect from a light wall. I was! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


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## SuperMiguel

Alaric said:


> I'd actually say no.... Go for black velvet / velour . Way less trouble to convert back, way less time to do and actually much better for light absorption and done reasonably more aesthetic.
> I've staple gunned it just at the top for most walls and let it hang down, though i can't see why a pole and draped fabric style of curtain wouldn't work pretty well for a convertible room!
> Seriously, try a couple of lengths either side of the screen or just in front of your viewing and you'll be amazed at the effect from a light wall. I was!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Mind sharing a picture on how it looks? Like during the day 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## Alaric

SuperMiguel said:


> Mind sharing a picture on how it looks? Like during the day


Mine is a dedicated room, it's like a loft conversion but was how the house was built. Just two small dormer windows and one is blocked off by the screen wall anyway, so there's not much light and there's a raised platform etc so not really a living room comparison, there are some pictures on my Google site!



Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


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## Krbass

I talked a good friend of mine into building a theater in his finished basement. He just ordered the 5050ub. I'll have to get some pics of it once it's up, going to bring my x790 I just got, I hope it can light up his 56" CIH screen. I was personally on the fence about the 5050 and x790 as I've seen many 5040s in action and loved them. Hope I didn't screw myself with the size screen I want, the 5050 puts out some serious light. 

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

Krbass said:


> I talked a good friend of mine into building a theater in his finished basement. He just ordered the 5050ub. I'll have to get some pics of it once it's up, going to bring my x790 I just got, I hope it can light up his 56" CIH screen. I was personally on the fence about the 5050 and x790 as I've seen many 5040s in action and loved them. Hope I didn't screw myself with the size screen I want, the 5050 puts out some serious light.
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk




If you aren’t happy I’d trade my UB for 790 in a second.


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## Krbass

CallingMrBenzo said:


> If you aren’t happy I’d trade my UB for 790 in a second.


I don't think I won't be happy but I know how bright epsons can get. JVC has the contrast but can it really light up a 150" screen and still be as vivid as a 5050. 

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

Krbass said:


> I don't think I won't be happy but I know how bright epsons can get. JVC has the contrast but can it really light up a 150" screen.
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk




Agreed and if you wanted to trade plus cash I would  my screen is only 115 I don’t need the light.


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## SuperMiguel

Alaric said:


> Mine is a dedicated room, it's like a loft conversion but was how the house was built. Just two small dormer windows and one is blocked off by the screen wall anyway, so there's not much light and there's a raised platform etc so not really a living room comparison, there are some pictures on my Google site!
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Ya mine is a regular bedroom with few windows not a living room

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


----------



## SuperMiguel

Alaric said:


> I'd actually say no.... Go for black velvet / velour . Way less trouble to convert back, way less time to do and actually much better for light absorption and done reasonably more aesthetic.
> I've staple gunned it just at the top for most walls and let it hang down, though i can't see why a pole and draped fabric style of curtain wouldn't work pretty well for a convertible room!
> Seriously, try a couple of lengths either side of the screen or just in front of your viewing and you'll be amazed at the effect from a light wall. I was!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Something like this?


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## CallingMrBenzo

SuperMiguel said:


> Something like this?




This 
45" Black Triple Velvet-30 Yards Wholesale by the Bolt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EEJSG90/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hb4hDb506W4C2


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## SuperMiguel

Reading that Blacker Theater Better Image thread, as me worried about the amount of work to make velvet look good, How bad of an idea would be to get the Sherwin Williams Tricorn black, paint the room, and the just add Tripple Velvet to the front instead of the entire room...


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## skylarlove1999

SuperMiguel said:


> Reading that Blacker Theater Better Image thread, as me worried about the amount of work to make velvet look good, How bad of an idea would be to get the Sherwin Williams Tricorn black, paint the room, and the just add Tripple Velvet to the front instead of the entire room...


Even the flattest matte black paint is still pretty reflective. It is also really difficult to paint over black paint once you go to sell the house. You can do it but it is definitely very challenging to cover with a primer and then paint. Once the lights go out and honestly doesn't matter what the Velvet looks like in terms of Aesthetics cuz you're not going to really see it anyway. Just my two cents.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> Even the flattest matte black paint is still pretty reflective. It is also really difficult to paint over black paint once you go to sell the house. You can do it but it is definitely very challenging to cover with a primer and then paint. Once the lights go out and honestly doesn't matter what the Velvet looks like in terms of Aesthetics cuz you're not going to really see it anyway. Just my two cents.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Ideally you want to have black velvet back to your first listening position but even 8 to 10 ft out all around the screen on the sides and the ceiling will give you an amazing Improvement in your contrast depth and Dynamics picture quality

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## bluer101

SuperMiguel said:


> Reading that Blacker Theater Better Image thread, as me worried about the amount of work to make velvet look good, How bad of an idea would be to get the Sherwin Williams Tricorn black, paint the room, and the just add Tripple Velvet to the front instead of the entire room...


Don’t get wrapped up into the whole room needs to be a black hole unless you are chasing that ultimate room. You want to minimize the light colors and reflections back to the screen. I was worried with my light grey fabric walls and after it’s done not an issue to me.


----------



## bluer101

skylarlove1999 said:


> Even the flattest matte black paint is still pretty reflective. It is also really difficult to paint over black paint once you go to sell the house. You can do it but it is definitely very challenging to cover with a primer and then paint. Once the lights go out and honestly doesn't matter what the Velvet looks like in terms of Aesthetics cuz you're not going to really see it anyway. Just my two cents.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Very true about looks but I needed a room that looks good and performs good.


----------



## skylarlove1999

bluer101 said:


> Very true about looks but I needed a room that looks good and performs good.


Everyone's home theater is full of compromises whether that be the Aesthetics the equipment the size or even the location. I'm glad yours turned out so well it looks really professionally finished

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## bluer101

skylarlove1999 said:


> Everyone's home theater is full of compromises whether that be the Aesthetics the equipment the size or even the location. I'm glad yours turned out so well it looks really professionally finished
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Absolutely right.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

bluer101 said:


> Absolutely right.




I recently added another 30 yards of velvet to my theater. It’s about 85 to 90% covered and when watching a movie it looks fantastic. 

The room is completely worthless if your not watching a movie. It’s just a dark cave. There are pros and cons to everything. I still will listen to music once in a while but with all the lights on it’s still not a place I would want to chill.


----------



## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> Ideally you want to have black velvet back to your first listening position but even 8 to 10 ft out all around the screen on the sides and the ceiling will give you an amazing Improvement in your contrast depth and Dynamics picture quality
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk





CallingMrBenzo said:


> I recently added another 30 yards of velvet to my theater. It’s about 85 to 90% covered and when watching a movie it looks fantastic.
> 
> The room is completely worthless if your not watching a movie. It’s just a dark cave. There are pros and cons to everything. I still will listen to music once in a while but with all the lights on it’s still not a place I would want to chill.


If you're not using curtains, how do you deal with baseboard trim?

I always hear people talk about the importance of the first 6-8 feet. Wouldn't the surface directly opposite the screen, behind your seat be the next most important surface to treat as it is receiving almost as much light as your eyes are and it is at the perfect angle to reflect light back to your screen?

What about recessed light fixes and white bulbs near the screen?


----------



## blake18

CallingMrBenzo said:


> DocOrange88 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Referbs are generally fine so long as the warranty is up to snuff. That being said the NX5 is really a side step sort of, lose DCI P3 and brightness. Really the true step would have to come with the NX7. The 5050UB is at a huge price advantage and brightness advantage still.
> 
> 
> 
> I sit about 20 feet from my 140 inch screen. Gains in resolution are largely likely to have losses and adding an AT screen eats some of that as well. Color/Contrast and brightness are king. The 5050 feels very, very close to Dolby theaters image.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Disagree on the NX-5
Click to expand...

How can you disagree? What he stated is objectively true.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> If you're not using curtains, how do you deal with baseboard trim?
> 
> 
> 
> I always hear people talk about the importance of the first 6-8 feet. Wouldn't the surface directly opposite the screen, behind your seat be the next most important surface to treat as it is receiving almost as much light as your eyes are and it is at the perfect angle to reflect light back to your screen?
> 
> 
> 
> What about recessed light fixes and white bulbs near the screen?


My back wall opposite the screen is 27 feet back so not an issue. I discussed this topic in person back in May with the Kevin Miller, ISF Master Calibrator. He stated that after about 15 ft even the wall directly opposite the screen is not affecting the screen with light reflection, it is just too far away to make any noticeable difference. My light fixtures in my ceiling for the first 12 ft back from the screen are covered with magnetic velvet covers. All my acoustic ceiling tiles are covered in black velvet. My front wall is not covered in black velvet. Once again I am not getting light reflected back from my front wall other than where it should be reflected back: from my screen.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

SuperMiguel said:


> Reading that Blacker Theater Better Image thread, as me worried about the amount of work to make velvet look good, How bad of an idea would be to get the Sherwin Williams Tricorn black, paint the room, and the just add Tripple Velvet to the front instead of the entire room...


The most important part of the room is the first 6ft from the screen, but the area which seems to affect the most is the ceiling. If you have a normal room with wall to ceiling at 90 degree then fitting a curtain rail and enough velvet curtain to run down the first 6-8ft of the wall would be reasonably cheap to do but the ceiling is where this become more problematic, my solution was adhesive black velour which I stuck to the walls and ceiling of my dedicated cinema, it comes in 130cm wide roll and if you got a professional wall paper guy in could make it look seamless.

Here’s an early photo when I was doing mine.










https://www.abmuk.net/pages/flock-material

Here’s my room as it progressed with the flocking.

https://www.avforums.com/threads/self-adhesive-velvet-flock.2204809/#post-26829260


----------



## Gellert1

It'd be awesome if we could ALL stay on the topic of this thread, specifically the Epson 5050ub projector. 

There's hundreds of posts going into great detail on velvet curtains and blackout this, blackout that elsewhere on this forum. Why post your non-related drivel here?

Just a thought.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> It'd be awesome if we could ALL stay on the topic of this thread, specifically the Epson 5050ub projector.
> 
> There's hundreds of posts going into great detail on velvet curtains and blackout this, blackout that elsewhere on this forum. Why post your non-related drivel here?
> 
> Just a thought.


Well ironically your room lighting and how much room reflection you have does have a significant impact on the performance you can expect from the Epson 5050. So I will have to respectfully disagree with your opinion that those posts are drivel and irrelevant. If you do have some relevant information to pass along about the Epson 5050 or you have a relevant question to ask about the Epson 5050 then please do post that. There are moderators who monitor the forums and it would be their job to make the statement above and they would do it any much more professional courteous constructive way as to not offend other Forum members. I do know some of the Forum moderators. At the current time I do not believe that you are one. Thank you for keeping your personal opinion of the posts to yourself as they certainly are not relevant to the Epson 5050.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Gellert said:


> It'd be awesome if we could ALL stay on the topic of this thread, specifically the Epson 5050ub projector.
> 
> There's hundreds of posts going into great detail on velvet curtains and blackout this, blackout that elsewhere on this forum. Why post your non-related drivel here?
> 
> Just a thought.


If you had the tiniest bit of knowledge about how projector work and how best to achieve a great picture you would realise the importance of velvet curtains and controlling the light in the room. What you call drivel others call it informative and useful, I fully understand not everyone can go down this route or want to which is perfectly fine and is the reason why the mast majority of posts don’t relate to room environment, but when the question is asked is it not done thing to help, advise and where possible educate?


----------



## WynsWrld98

I'm agreeing with Gellert. There are forums for topics about home theater room treatments. The posts here should be SPECIFIC to the 5050/6050.


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## Gellert1

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm agreeing with Gellert. There are forums for topics about home theater room treatments. The posts here should be SPECIFIC to the 5050/6050.


I guess we are in the minority here. 

This thread is about a specific projector, which I lovingly own. It is certainly NOT about your black velvet curtains or anything else totally unrelated to the Epson.

How about researching your black velvet on other threads and leave this topic for what it was intended for. 

All you experts talking about velvet curtains being relevant to the Epson's performance are comparing apples to oranges. 

Let's start talking about HDMI cables, power conditioners, and masking panels too while we're at it. May as well incorporate everything else into your non-Epson related drivel.

Yes, drivel. 🤔


----------



## Luminated67

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm agreeing with Gellert. There are forums for topics about home theater room treatments. The posts here should be SPECIFIC to the 5050/6050.


Ok when someone asks about calibrated settings from the likes of @Alaric are you to ignore them when they say their room is a family room with white walls etc and the settings don’t work?

In fact do we not have a dedicated calibrated section?

At what point is a discussion off topic too much, should we stop mentioning Bluray players or projector mounts?


----------



## skylarlove1999

WynsWrld98 said:


> I'm agreeing with Gellert. There are forums for topics about home theater room treatments. The posts here should be SPECIFIC to the 5050/6050.


I will respectfully disagree. If you go through any through any thread you will find ancillary posts to home theater in general. It is AVS forum. do posts need to be relevant to the topic? Yes. Would ten pages of off topic posts be concerning ? Sure. Are there moderators to gently and courteously get things back on track? Definitely . If @Gellert had been courteous and phrased his concern in a manner displaying respect for other fellow forum members it would have gone much better for him. By you stating you agree with Gellert and not acknowledging his rude behavior it seems you like you are rewarding his ignorance toward forum members. You being an AVS FORUM special member your words have a certain gravitas. There aren't any posts that stay 100% on topic but I see people ask in a civil manner if we could all do our best to get back on topic. That type of courteous reminder is 100% met with sincere apologies from whomever might have led us off topic. Usually more then one person apologizing. I am not a big proponent of rewarding rude behavior in my children or in adults who quite frankly should know better. Being right doesn't make it alright to talk down to to an entire forum like Gellert did. He didn't bother to edit his post or apologize for his harsh tone. 


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> I guess we are in the minority here.
> 
> This thread is about a specific projector, which I lovingly own. It is certainly NOT about your black velvet curtains or anything else totally unrelated to the Epson.
> 
> How about researching your black velvet on other threads and leave this topic for what it was intended for.
> 
> All you experts talking about velvet curtains being relevant to the Epson's performance are comparing apples to oranges.
> 
> Let's start talking about HDMI cables, power conditioners, and masking panels too while we're at it. May as well incorporate everything else into your non-Epson related drivel.
> 
> Yes, drivel. 🤔


And this is what you get when an AVS Forum special member supports a hostile demeaning poster. Another post with the same hostile berating tone. I would tread lightly. I have seen Forum members banned for similar behavior. People forget what you said. They always remember how you made them feel.

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## skylarlove1999

@Gellert I think a public apology would be in order at this point to try to ingratiate yourself back into a community you have talked down to in an ignorant manner. I for one would be more understanding of your concerns if you were no longer openly hostile. Your second post with the wording was way out of bounds. I would hate to see you no longer able to make posts, only able to read them. 


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk[/quote]



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Gellert said:


> I guess we are in the minority here.
> 
> This thread is about a specific projector, which I lovingly own. It is certainly NOT about your black velvet curtains or anything else totally unrelated to the Epson.


Struggling to understand why you don’t seem to think room environment has nothing to do with the Epson or in fact any projector?



Gellert said:


> How about researching your black velvet on other threads and leave this topic for what it was intended for.
> 
> All you experts talking about velvet curtains being relevant to the Epson's performance are comparing apples to oranges.


I actually think it’s logically to ask about such things on a particular projector model’s thread, at least then you get members which your exact same model answering your question based on their experience. But hey maybe my opinion is in a minority.



Gellert said:


> Let's start talking about HDMI cables, power conditioners, and masking panels too while we're at it. May as well incorporate everything else into your non-Epson related drivel.
> 
> Yes, drivel. 🤔


I think you will find that discussing HDMI cables here has helped a load of members sort issues they have been having, but maybe you would prefer having everyone stab about in the dark with their head up their ass rather than discuss anything other than the Epson itself. 

Seriously dude you have an issue that definitely unrelated to any of the equipment you own.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> Struggling to understand why you don’t seem to think room environment has nothing to do with the Epson or in fact any projector?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually think it’s logically to ask about such things on a particular projector model’s thread, at least then you get members which your exact same model answering your question based on their experience. But hey maybe my opinion is in a minority.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you will find that discussing HDMI cables here has helped a load of members sort issues they have been having, but maybe you would prefer having everyone stab about in the dark with their head up their ass rather than discuss anything other than the Epson itself.
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously dude you have an issue that definitely unrelated to any of the equipment you own.


Let us all please try to remain civil and not antagonizing each other. I realize one person started this and has yet to apologize and actually double down on his ignorance. Can we please refrain at this time from having to involve a moderator by going back to exactly what we're doing before which is helping each other and enjoying each other's company and learning from each other. Thank you

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

^Only trying to explain the importance of the information we share here.


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## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> ^Only trying to explain the importance of the information we share here.


I felt attacked as well. I get it. I really appreciate all your input. Thanks for the support you provide to the fourm.

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## MGBPUFF

I agree with Gellert also. A general point without any particular special relevance to this projector alone belongs somewhere else. Calibrations for this projector (conditions can be defined) - O.K. Mounts or other components that work especially well with this projector - O.K. But general braggadocio belongs in a general braggadocio thread.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> I agree with Gellert also. A general point without any particular special relevance to this projector alone belongs somewhere else. Calibrations for this projector (conditions can be defined) - O.K. Mounts or other components that work especially well with this projector - O.K. But general braggadocio belongs in a general braggadocio thread.


Fairly certain anyone who post the picture of their gear and their home theater is displaying proudly what they own. There are thousands I'm such posts spread throughout all the forums here. I don't think anyone was disagreeing with the general message please stay on topic as much as possible. I think most of the disagreement was the way in which Gellert approached the subject. His approach was definitely way out of bounds. Especially his second post. It was openly hostile and antagonistic. Quite frankly not something that the moderators here usually tolerate if it is reported.

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## MGBPUFF

Look at the title of this thread. That's what I expect to read about when I check in, not two pages of posts about black out theaters There is an entire thread about 'The blacker, the better'. Also, I look at JVC threads when I want information about JVC projectors. Please tell me about your experiences with the Epson 5050UB/6050UB. It's a fairly simple concept to understand.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> Look at the title of this thread. That's what I expect to read about when I check in, not two pages of posts about black out theaters There is an entire thread about 'The blacker, the better'. Also, I look at JVC threads when I want information about JVC projectors. Please tell me about your experiences with the Epson 5050UB/6050UB. It's a fairly simple concept to understand.


I am really trying to remain benevolent. If you don't like some of the posts just skip past them. That seems fairly simple to do. There are plenty of posts about mounts, HDMI cables, handshake issues, screens , bluray players, etc. Within this thread that may not 100% be on topic. Quite frankly unless you are a moderator your opinion is just that. Stop trying to bully people into your idea of what they should post and discuss. It won't work it will just take the thread further off topic. Do you not see the irony, you are literally complaining about posts being off topic by posting your opinion about those posts making your post off topic. Follow your own advice. If it isn't about the 5050 keep it to yourself. No one is forcing you to read those posts. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> I felt attacked as well. I get it. I really appreciate all your input. Thanks for the support you provide to the fourm.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I definitely wasn’t having a go at you, so sorry if it came across that way. I just feel a little annoyed when all we try to do here is help our fellow members with advice based on our own experiences, be that cable choice, mounts, calibration setups or room environment.


----------



## MGBPUFF

Please tell me about the Epson 5050Ub ?6050 UB projectors. I don't care about your philosophy of life.


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## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> Please tell me about the Epson 5050Ub ?6050 UB projectors. I don't care about your philosophy of life.


And you my friend are definitely part of the problem on line. People like yourself have forgotten how to be civil because they post things online in relative anonymity where in real life if others were in a room with you and someone was trying to be nice and you continue to act like a horses butt maybe you might have some shame and embarrassment because those people you might see again. But in an anonymous forum those Rules of Civility and Humanity sometimes are overlooked. It was nice to meet the civil and outgoing people at the Epson 6050 launch in early May at Gilmore's AV in NYC.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I definitely wasn’t having a go at you, so sorry if it came across that way. I just feel a little annoyed when all we try to do here is help our fellow members with advice based on our own experiences, be that cable choice, mounts, calibration setups or room environment.


No apology necessary I didn't feel attacked by you it was Gellert with his condescending hostile and antagonistic approach to The Forum

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## CallingMrBenzo

MGBPUFF said:


> Please tell me about the Epson 5050Ub ?6050 UB projectors. I don't care about your philosophy of life.




Do you own a 5050/6050UB ?


----------



## Luminated67

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Do you own a 5050/6050UB ?


Good question. 

I’m pretty sure those on here that have benefitted from the advice given don’t feel like some of the above posters.


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## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> Good question.
> 
> 
> 
> I’m pretty sure those on here that have benefitted from the advice given don’t feel like some of the above posters.




I follow many threads in which I am not an owner. Yes I go there for the specified topic but I am there to learn and would certainly ever open my mouth and dictate what should or should not be discussed. I would pass through posts I don’t care for and move on. It’s really not that big of a deal. If you don’t like what a group of owners are discussing move on


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## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I follow many threads in which I am not an owner. Yes I go there for the specified topic but I am there to learn and would certainly ever open my mouth and dictate what should or should not be discussed. I would pass through posts I don’t care for and move on. It’s really not that big of a deal. If you don’t like what a group of owners are discussing move on


+1 

Amen to that very healthy and intelligent attitude 

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## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> Please tell me about the Epson 5050Ub ?6050 UB projectors. I don't care about your philosophy of life.


If you look through a lot of your posts on this forum there's a running theme of you trying to bully people into telling them what they should or shouldn't discuss. That will not happen . you should give up trying control another persons behavior you can only control your own behavior.









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## MGBPUFF

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Do you own a 5050/6050UB ?


NO. I am weighing the possible purchase of one. Some threads are entitled for owners only, not this one. I don't want to keep staring at this issue of being off topic like the infinite image one gets between two mirrors. I just want to see information on the topic of the thread title.


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## Krbass

I am not an owner of the 5050/6050 but have a lot of love for what epson does. I think any information that can better your room whether it's what mount, treatments, seating position is all relivant and personally would want that information available in an owners thread. 

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


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## CallingMrBenzo

MGBPUFF said:


> NO. I am weighing the possible purchase of one. Some threads are entitled for owners only, not this one. I don't want to keep staring at this issue of being off topic like the infinite image one gets between two mirrors. I just want to see information on the topic of the thread title.




Cool. There’s plenty of information on here. If you don’t like what you are reading keep it to yourself. The two most helpful people that have been here since day one of this thread have been insulted by the comments of somebody that doesn’t even own the product. 

I think we can all agree to disagree and just keep on moving. Enjoy the rest of your weekend.


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## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> NO. I am weighing the possible purchase of one. Some threads are entitled for owners only, not this one. I don't want to keep staring at this issue of being off topic like the infinite image one gets between two mirrors. I just want to see information on the topic of the thread title.


You did not need to tell us if you felt that things were off topic but you chose to do so and now you're trying to be magnanimous by saying you don't want to keep it off topic like to infinite images between mirrors? When if anyone takes the time to look at your previous posts in other threads it's a running theme with you of trying to tell people what to do and how to post. It is very rare that you provide relevant feedback about the topic looking through your posts. You are what my grandfather would refer to as a rabble-rouser. Here just to stir things up until someone calls you out on your behavior and then you try to play the victim card. Doesn't work very well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## MGBPUFF

skylarlove1999 said:


> If you look through a lot of your posts on this forum there's a running theme of you trying to bully people into telling them what they should or shouldn't discuss. That will not happen . you should give up trying control another persons behavior you can only control your own behavior.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


So now you are stalking me? At least I am consistent with expecting posts to be related to the subject of the thread. I respect organization over chaos.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> NO. I am weighing the possible purchase of one. Some threads are entitled for owners only, not this one. I don't want to keep staring at this issue of being off topic like the infinite image one gets between two mirrors. I just want to see information on the topic of the thread title.


Ask a question about the Epson 50 50 that you have or the 6050 that you have if you are genuinely here to gather information then why have you not asked a question in this entire thread? I will answer that one because you are just here to instigate and irritate and this isn't the first time someone is calling you out on your behavior. Your reputation definitely precedes you. Do you know what you do to a bully you stand up to them and they usually walk away.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> So now you are stalking me? At least I am consistent with expecting posts to be related to the subject of the thread. I respect organization over chaos.


Please don't flatter yourself that I would waste more than five minutes of my time to expose you for who you really are on this forum. I just want people to know where you're coming from since you try to play the victim card after people come back at you. I was trying to be nice the last several days to Gellert and then to you today but you didn't get it then. You don't own this forum if you want to tell people what they can or can't do then start a forum of your own where you have sole control over what gets posted. I guarantee you you won't have anybody posting if you treat them the way that you try to control things here in AVS forum. You are not a moderator nor will you ever be one on this forum so stop wasting everyone else is time and just move along whenever you see something you don't want to read. I hope I've been crystal clear about this at this point cuz I'm sick and tired of seeing your posts all over the Forum complaining about what people are talkin about.

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## skylarlove1999

Krbass said:


> I am not an owner of the 5050/6050 but have a lot of love for what epson does. I think any information that can better your room whether it's what mount, treatments, seating position is all relivant and personally would want that information available in an owners thread.
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


+1

Amen to that and thank you. I want to apologize for wasting so much time the last couple days discussing the behavior of other posters but I felt the need to be done. Quite frankly I am just tired of ignorant people trying to control others cuz they're not happy with their own lives.

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## SuperMiguel

Who needs a projector when u got avs forums

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

SuperMiguel said:


> Who needs a projector when u got avs forums
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


 are you not entertained?

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## SuperMiguel

skylarlove1999 said:


> are you not entertained?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I was going to post a question but not... I rather wait lol

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## MGBPUFF

If you take your mirror away, I'll take mine away. I just want to learn about this product. Preferably passively learn! I think that is the purpose of this entire blog. Many, many more people read than contribute. But when you post 2 entire pages of off topic material and then advise me to just skip over if I don't like it - that's fine with a post or two, but 2 pages? You are wasting my and everyone else's time with your ego driven tirads. And this stalking thing that you are now getting into is just weird.


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## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> If you take your mirror away, I'll take mine away. I just want to learn about this product. Preferably passively learn! I think that is the purpose of this entire blog. Many, many more people read than contribute. But when you post 2 entire pages of off topic material and then advise me to just skip over if I don't like it - that's fine with a post or two, but 2 pages? You are wasting my and everyone else's time with your ego driven tirads. And this stalking thing that you are now getting into is just weird.


If it wasn't so sad I'd find it entirely laughable about you talking about anybody and their ego. Even in your pseudo apology you had then try to insult me twice and agonize and irritate me further proving my point that's all you come to the forms for is stir stuff up. If I was a ego-driven person I would probably post something like anyone who would like me to continue posting in this thread please quote this with a + 1. And anyone who would like @MGBPUFF to simply go away quote this with a -1. But I will take the high road. Enough of other people's time has been wasted. My grandfather used to tell me you can tell when you've hit on a person's real motivation because they'll begin to attack you rather than address their own behavior. You could have addressed your own behavior about constantly posting about who shouldn't post what throughout the AVS forum. You could have denied that that's what you do. But you didn't because you know it will be a waste of time because it is what you do and other people would back me up. So instead you tried to say I was stalking you because I looked at your public posts. Don't make me laugh.  I was simply exposing you for who you are.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

MGBPUFF said:


> If you take your mirror away, I'll take mine away. I just want to learn about this product. Preferably passively learn! I think that is the purpose of this entire blog. Many, many more people read than contribute. But when you post 2 entire pages of off topic material and then advise me to just skip over if I don't like it - that's fine with a post or two, but 2 pages? You are wasting my and everyone else's time with your ego driven tirads. And this stalking thing that you are now getting into is just weird.


Ask away, what do you want to know from one of the first to own the product. Oh and by the way help others is all I have ever tried to do on this or any thread.


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## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> Ask away, what do you want to know from one of the first to own the product. Oh and by the way help others is all I have ever tried to do on this or any thread.


+1 

Truer words have never been spoken.

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## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> If you take your mirror away, I'll take mine away. I just want to learn about this product. Preferably passively learn! I think that is the purpose of this entire blog. Many, many more people read than contribute. But when you post 2 entire pages of off topic material and then advise me to just skip over if I don't like it - that's fine with a post or two, but 2 pages? You are wasting my and everyone else's time with your ego driven tirads. And this stalking thing that you are now getting into is just weird.


What question about the 5050 or 6050 can I answer for you that will help you decide if you should purchase these projectors since I had both in my theater?

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## MGBPUFF

-1 The End - That's all there is folks!


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## Luminated67

MGBPUFF said:


> -1 The End - That's all there is folks!


Typical.... was only here to disrupt. Very sad, moderators please take note.


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## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> Typical.... was only here to disrupt. Very sad, moderators please take note.




Well at least it’s settled. Back to our on/off topic conversations


----------



## DMILANI

Hi all.

I'm thinking of upgrading my 12 year old Epson 1080UB to the 5050UB. I take it I'll be blown away by the improvements? I'm struggling to decide between the 4010 or 5050UB. Since I do tend to keep my projectors a long time, I'm leaning towards the 5050UB, but it's $1000 more of course. The contrast ratio of the 1080UB is only 50,000:1 so even the 4010 would probably be a marked improvement. I have a dedicated theater room in the basement with 100% light control.

Thanks,
-D


----------



## MGBPUFF

How does the 5050UB compare to the Sony VPL40ES performance wise in a light controlled but not totally black environment? Would a normal person be dazzled by the improvement on a 120" screen from 10ft viewing? Don't throw specs at me - I can look those up for myself.


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## Krbass

DMILANI said:


> Hi all.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of upgrading my 12 year old Epson 1080UB to the 5050UB. I take it I'll be blown away by the improvements? I'm struggling to decide between the 4010 or 5050UB. Since I do tend to keep my projectors a long time, I'm leaning towards the 5050UB, but it's $1000 more of course. The contrast ratio of the 1080UB is only 50,000:1 so even the 4010 would probably be a marked improvement. I have a dedicated theater room in the basement with 100% light control.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -D


The difference between the 1080ub and 5050 should be a big upgrade. A friend of mine replaced his 8500ub with a 5040 and we got a chance to compare them, to our eyes the upgrade was huge so a 5050 will be even better. 

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


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## Krbass

MGBPUFF said:


> How does the 5050UB compare to the Sony VPL40ES performance wise in a light controlled but not totally black environment? Would a normal person be dazzled by the improvement on a 120" screen from 10ft viewing? Don't throw specs at me - I can look those up for myself.


I think the 5050 is going to beat it in every area, better light out put for HDR, better black level, sharper looking. I've not seen a sony projector I've really liked. Epson and JVC are my 2 favorites. 

Edit: I just recently saw a 5050ub and a sony 285 at a local shop. To my eyes the Epson was just as sharp as the Sony 4k panel. The epsons colors were better and image was brighter. The contrast wasn't dramatically different but Epson definitely was also the winner there. 
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## Jacob22

I was playing around with the projector throw calculator for the 6050 but trying to make sense of this image. Is this saying I need to mount the center of the lens 23" higher than the top of the screen?

Thanks!


----------



## Gellert1

Jacob22 said:


> I was playing around with the projector throw calculator for the 6050 but trying to make sense of this image. Is this saying I need to mount the center of the lens 23" higher than the top of the screen?
> 
> Thanks!


It's not saying that. 
It's simply showing the center of the lens positioned exactly centered on a 45" high screen. The 6050 has an extremely wide lens shift feature. You can install it pretty high or low and off-centered without affecting the picture in a negative way.


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## skylarlove1999

Jacob22 said:


> I was playing around with the projector throw calculator for the 6050 but trying to make sense of this image. Is this saying I need to mount the center of the lens 23" higher than the top of the screen?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


 it is not indicating that it needs to be 23 inches higher than the top of the screen fact. it's indicating that you would have the flexibility due to the vertical lens shift that if you had to mount the projector 23 inch higher than the top of the screen you would still get the image size you're looking for. I have my 6050 mounted about 16 in from the top of my screen. Ideally for picture uniformity you would want your lens to actually be dead center of your screen vertically and horizontally which quite frankly is not realistic because no one's going to put their projector suspended in the middle of their room. Some people say when they use the horizontal lens shift and vertical lens shift to the maximum on both capabilities they notice a difference in picture quality and picture uniformity. I've had four different Epson projectors in the last 10 years and I have used the lens shift vertically at almost 100% for all them and have not noticed any degradation in picture quality or picture uniformity. The only time that you can run into an inability to get the picture the way that you want is if you are maxing out both horizontal and vertical lens shift. Most people are able to get close to the center horizontally when they mount the projector in the middle of their horizontal location opposite of screen and most people are mounting vertically near their ceiling using a good deal of the vertical lens shift but barely any horizontal lens shift. I would say if you were having questions or concerns you can always give Epson a call or shoot them an email.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Jacob22

skylarlove1999 said:


> it is not indicating that it needs to be 23 inches higher than the top of the screen fact. it's indicating that you would have the flexibility due to the vertical lens shift that if you had to mount the projector 23 inch higher than the top of the screen you would still get the image size you're looking for. I have my 6050 mounted about 16 in from the top of my screen. Ideally for picture uniformity you would want your lens to actually be dead center of your screen vertically and horizontally which quite frankly is not realistic because no one's going to put their projector suspended in the middle of their room. Some people say when they use the horizontal lens shift and vertical lens shift to the maximum on both capabilities they notice a difference in picture quality and picture uniformity. I've had four different Epson projectors in the last 10 years and I have used the lens shift vertically at almost 100% for all them and have not noticed any degradation in picture quality or picture uniformity. The only time that you can run into an inability to get the picture the way that you want is if you are maxing out both horizontal and vertical lens shift. Most people are able to get close to the center horizontally when they mount the projector in the middle of their horizontal location opposite of screen and most people are mounting vertically near their ceiling using a good deal of the vertical lens shift but barely any horizontal lens shift. I would say if you were having questions or concerns you can always give Epson a call or shoot them an email.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks! I appreciate the information and makes total sense now.


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## Luminated67

MGBPUFF said:


> How does the 5050UB compare to the Sony VPL40ES performance wise in a light controlled but not totally black environment? Would a normal person be dazzled by the improvement on a 120" screen from 10ft viewing? Don't throw specs at me - I can look those up for myself.


Can't speak about the HW40es but with the HW45es playing 1080P discs the improvement was minimal. Blacks are better, it can throw a brighter image for sure but overall the improvement isn't huge.

Out of the box I actually think the colours on Sony are better so if you intend to only watch 1080P discs and never calibrate the projector the Sony is very hard to beat.

There's a guy on our local UK forum who has switched from the HW40es to the Epson TW9400, he thinks it's quite a bit better. if you are a member of AVForums do a search for Swiftpete and he would be only to glad to advise on this.


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## ckronengold

DMILANI said:


> Hi all.
> 
> I'm thinking of upgrading my 12 year old Epson 1080UB to the 5050UB. I take it I'll be blown away by the improvements? I'm struggling to decide between the 4010 or 5050UB. Since I do tend to keep my projectors a long time, I'm leaning towards the 5050UB, but it's $1000 more of course. The contrast ratio of the 1080UB is only 50,000:1 so even the 4010 would probably be a marked improvement. I have a dedicated theater room in the basement with 100% light control.
> 
> Thanks,
> -D


Here's some simple math to help you decide. The 1080UB came out in 2008, so it looks like you keep your projectors for 10 years. Over 10 years, the $1000 difference works out to be about $.25 per day. Is the 5050 $.25 per day better than the 4010? It is in my book. 

At 3 years, its $1 per day. At 5 years, its $.55 per day. We're talking cheap cups of coffee.


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## MGBPUFF

Krbass said:


> I think the 5050 is going to beat it in every area, better light out put for HDR, better black level, sharper looking. I've not seen a sony projector I've really liked. Epson and JVC are my 2 favorites.
> 
> Edit: I just recently saw a 5050ub and a sony 285 at a local shop. To my eyes the Epson was just as sharp as the Sony 4k panel. The epsons colors were better and image was brighter. The contrast wasn't dramatically different but Epson definitely was also the winner there.
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


Thanks, I have an HDFury Diva in the path to the Sony HW40ES that seems to help with HDR, so I prefer to watch movies (4K or blueray) on the projector instead of a 65" Samsung QLED 4k tv that sits behind my drop down screen that I use for daytime viewing.


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## MGBPUFF

Luminated67 said:


> Can't speak about the HW40es but with the HW45es playing 1080P discs the improvement was minimal. Blacks are better, it can throw a brighter image for sure but overall the improvement isn't huge.
> 
> Out of the box I actually think the colours on Sony are better so if you intend to only watch 1080P discs and never calibrate the projector the Sony is very hard to beat.
> 
> There's a guy on our local UK forum who has switched from the HW40es to the Epson TW9400, he thinks it's quite a bit better. if you are a member of AVForums do a search for Swiftpete and he would be only to glad to advise on this.


Thanks! That is very helpful!


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## CallingMrBenzo

Are there any other Epson 5050 owners in th DC Metro area ?


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## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Here's some simple math to help you decide. The 1080UB came out in 2008, so it looks like you keep your projectors for 10 years. Over 10 years, the $1000 difference works out to be about $.25 per day. Is the 5050 $.25 per day better than the 4010? It is in my book.
> 
> 
> 
> At 3 years, its $1 per day. At 5 years, its $.55 per day. We're talking cheap cups of coffee.


Awesome analogy how to look at the difference over many years and you get to have the 5050 every day to enjoy for whatever content you love to watch. I don't think you'll be disappointed by the 4010 I do think you will notice the difference and it is pretty significant due to the contrast and black levels being better.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DMILANI

I realize the 5050 just came out, but any guesses when the price might drop below its current sale price?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

DMILANI said:


> I realize the 5050 just came out, but any guesses when the price might drop below its current sale price?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Black Friday would be my guess. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## dr bill

MGBPUFF said:


> How does the 5050UB compare to the Sony VPL40ES performance wise in a light controlled but not totally black environment? Would a normal person be dazzled by the improvement on a 120" screen from 10ft viewing? Don't throw specs at me - I can look those up for myself.



Your hypothetical is my actual progression, from the 40ES to the 5050, though I am projecting onto a 150" screen at about 16ft viewing.

As a normal person, I am genuinely dazzled by the 5050 in comparison to my 40ES. Much deeper blacks, much more vibrant colors. Looks almost like a giant OLED TV. No joke.


True story - my 21yo son recently went to see the new Spider-Man movie in the local theater. He texted me and told me that I have "ruined" movies for him, outside of my home theater. What a compliment!!! :grin:


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## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> Your hypothetical is my actual progression, from the 40ES to the 5050, though I am projecting onto a 150" screen at about 16ft viewing.
> 
> 
> 
> As a normal person, I am genuinely dazzled by the 5050 in comparison to my 40ES. Much deeper blacks, much more vibrant colors. Looks almost like a giant OLED TV. No joke.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> True story - my 21yo son recently went to see the new Spider-Man movie in the local theater. He texted me and told me that I have "ruined" movies for him, outside of my home theater. What a compliment!!! :grin:


Ahhh the sweet text of victory

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Nexgen76

DMILANI said:


> I realize the 5050 just came out, but any guesses when the price might drop below its current sale price?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



CEDIA & IFA(Sept) is right around the corner so keep a eye out for deals then.


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## jtorrence3

Went from Sony 40es to Epson 6050 myself. I'm impressed and content with the upgrade even with 1080p content.


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## MGBPUFF

dr bill said:


> Your hypothetical is my actual progression, from the 40ES to the 5050, though I am projecting onto a 150" screen at about 16ft viewing.
> 
> As a normal person, I am genuinely dazzled by the 5050 in comparison to my 40ES. Much deeper blacks, much more vibrant colors. Looks almost like a giant OLED TV. No joke.
> 
> 
> True story - my 21yo son recently went to see the new Spider-Man movie in the local theater. He texted me and told me that I have "ruined" movies for him, outside of my home theater. What a compliment!!! :grin:


Thanks for responding! This gives me confidence that the trade upward to the 5050UB will not be a mistake. My family also feels the same way about local theaters since I got the HW40ES, and I would like to improve upon that.


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## MGBPUFF

jtorrence3 said:


> Went from Sony 40es to Epson 6050 myself. I'm impressed and content with the upgrade even with 1080p content.


Thanks, that reinforces DR. Bill's testimony!


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## Greg121986

I'd just like to get some opinions on this setup. I've modeled my townhouse that I'll be moving into at the end of the month. I expect to get an Epson 5050UB. It looks like I can fit 120-135", but a 135" is just way too big. Sweet spot seating position is between 11 and 12 feet depending on how far back the recliner goes. The room is 18' 1" wide, and 12' 8" deep.

I cannot use exact models so I had to improvise. The tall vases are my stereo speakers. The table in the corner is a subwoofer. The purple Eddie Van Halen looking artwork are acoustic panels. The big photo on the wall is an approximation of a 135" screen (118" x 66"). The projector lens is about 16' 5" from the screen. This puts me almost right in the middle of the lens zoom according to online projector calculators. I believe I can put the projector inside a closet that sits behind the seating position by several feet. I can put a shelf in there, or possibly hang it from the built-in closet shelf or ceiling. I think I will use a gray screen. Is anyone using a Silver Ticket or Elite Screens gray screen with the 5050UB? The walls will be white and I do not expect to paint them. Should the gray help this situation? I will put blackout curtains over the windows and there are only 2 windows in this area. 

Is there any information on the beam angle of the projector output? I am trying to figure out if the light cone will be too wide such that it may hit the wall if I project from the closet, across the hallway. I am assuming it will be OK but I really have on idea. At this distance, projectorcentral calculator shows 52fL with a 120" 1.0 screen. Is this a lot? I do not like a super bright picture. I had a BenQ HT1075 awhile back and even on low with a 1.1 gain white screen I always thought it was way too bright and it often made my eyes hurt. I'm hoping a gray screen will be less of an eye strain for me but I'm not sure how to quantify the measurement of 52fL. I spend a lot of time in the dark when watching TV/movies whether it's with a TV or projector.

Any thoughts on this setup are appreciated. Can anyone see a better way to position the seating?


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## noob00224

Greg121986 said:


> I'd just like to get some opinions on this setup. I've modeled my townhouse that I'll be moving into at the end of the month. I expect to get an Epson 5050UB. It looks like I can fit 120-135", but a 135" is just way too big. Sweet spot seating position is between 11 and 12 feet depending on how far back the recliner goes. The room is 18' 1" wide, and 12' 8" deep.
> 
> I cannot use exact models so I had to improvise. The tall vases are my stereo speakers. The table in the corner is a subwoofer. The purple Eddie Van Halen looking artwork are acoustic panels. The big photo on the wall is an approximation of a 135" screen (118" x 66"). The projector lens is about 16' 5" from the screen. This puts me almost right in the middle of the lens zoom according to online projector calculators. I believe I can put the projector inside a closet that sits behind the seating position by several feet. I can put a shelf in there, or possibly hang it from the built-in closet shelf or ceiling. I think I will use a gray screen. Is anyone using a Silver Ticket or Elite Screens gray screen with the 5050UB? The walls will be white and I do not expect to paint them. Should the gray help this situation? I will put blackout curtains over the windows and there are only 2 windows in this area.
> 
> Is there any information on the beam angle of the projector output? I am trying to figure out if the light cone will be too wide such that it may hit the wall if I project from the closet, across the hallway. I am assuming it will be OK but I really have on idea. At this distance, projectorcentral calculator shows 52fL with a 120" 1.0 screen. Is this a lot? I do not like a super bright picture. I had a BenQ HT1075 awhile back and even on low with a 1.1 gain white screen I always thought it was way too bright and it often made my eyes hurt. I'm hoping a gray screen will be less of an eye strain for me but I'm not sure how to quantify the measurement of 52fL. I spend a lot of time in the dark when watching TV/movies whether it's with a TV or projector.
> 
> Any thoughts on this setup are appreciated. Can anyone see a better way to position the seating?


To check if beam angle is a problem, here is the lens shift specification:
Vertical: ±96.3(H center, powered)
Horizontal: ±47.1(V center, powered)

This unit is fairly large, so make sure there is enough space in the closet:
Including feet: 20.5" x 17.7" x 7.6" (W x D x H) 

The 5050UB has good blacks/shadow detail (contrast), so putting it in a room with white walls will negate that.
The cheaper version of this projector, the 4010HC could work, it has worse contrast and a 10GB HDMI chip, so no 4K HDR 60Hz.
As it's been suggested on this tread, paint or fabric is highly recommended. In your case the ceiling is closest to the screen, so that would be the priority.
On the floor a dark colored carpet would do, and retractable fabric curtains just on each side of the screen.

The BenQ HT1075 and 5050UB have about the same lumens on ECO. 
https://www.projectorreviews.com/benq/benq-ht1075-projector-review-performance/
https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...50ub-review-performance-brightness-sharpness/

ND filters are an alternative to reduce brightness.

Can't speak for the Silver Ticket, but I had a Elite Cinegrey 1.0 gain (matte grey) screen with a similar Benq PJ (106" screen, at x1.5 throw range, ~500h lamp time). It had better black details than a white screen (and an Cinegrey 3D ALR screen), but it killed the colors and whites.

Generally, a grey screen will do just that, absorb light and darken the picture in the process. I have seen pictures with grey screens/paints that have good color reproduction though.
A too dark grey screen could diminish HDR, since HDR requires bright highlights.

This type of screen will also help with reflections from walls, but only in a limited way since it's just absorbing light and not reflecting it back. For that, an ALR screen could be the answer, but they are expensive and depending on the model and setup, they could have downsides in terms of picture quality. Many ALR's have a positive gain, but there are some with a negative gain as well.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3064376-do-i-need-alr-grey-screen.html

I can't tell what's on the wall/part of of the room to the left of the current seating arrangement, but that could be used instead. Ceiling installation would be required in that case.


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## noob00224

Gellert said:


> Beam angle has nothing to do with lens shift.
> 
> He's asking about the width /height of the beam itself because he's considering placing it inside a closet. I'm guessing that would involve a bit of trigonometry if you had the exact distances and sizes of the closet space, screen wall, and throw distance.


Can't read the text, please use tapatalk.


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## Greg121986

Correct, I am not concerned with the available lens shift. I may mount the projector at the center of the screen, but I may also mount it up higher to get it out of the way of people walking by. I will experiment first before deciding on a permanent solution. 

My concern is the actual cone of light that the projector will shoot out. I have attached some pics from the screen's perspective, and from the projector perspective. The wall in question is highlighted in green. 

I think it should be OK. This is all a rough estimate, but judging by the screenshot from the projector perspective, I can still see the entire screen without the wall being in the way, so I would assume that the wall won't interfere.


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## MGBPUFF

Greg121986 said:


> Correct, I am not concerned with the available lens shift. I may mount the projector at the center of the screen, but I may also mount it up higher to get it out of the way of people walking by. I will experiment first before deciding on a permanent solution.
> 
> My concern is the actual cone of light that the projector will shoot out. I have attached some pics from the screen's perspective, and from the projector perspective. The wall in question is highlighted in green.
> 
> I think it should be OK. This is all a rough estimate, but judging by the screenshot from the projector perspective, I can still see the entire screen without the wall being in the way, so I would assume that the wall won't interfere.


This room looks made to order for a ultra short throw projector!


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## Greg121986

MGBPUFF said:


> This room looks made to order for a ultra short throw projector!


I am keeping an eye out for the new UST projectors that I've seen discussed around here, but I'm also not too keen on waiting until the end of the year. If I see the 5050ub show up for a double digit % off, I'm probably going to just pull the trigger. I am weary of the Xiaomi stuff. The 60hz frame rate lock is a deal breaker. I also want something with really good color. My last BenQ HT1075 was really great for the fact that I spent almost no money on it. The goal for the next projector is to take a real major leap forward from the BenQ HT1075.


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## ckronengold

Greg121986 said:


> I think I will use a gray screen. Is anyone using a Silver Ticket or Elite Screens gray screen with the 5050UB? The walls will be white and I do not expect to paint them. Should the gray help this situation? I will put blackout curtains over the windows and there are only 2 windows in this area.


I'm running my 5050 on a Silver Ticket grey screen. Projector is ~15ft, seating is at 12', and the screen is 16:9 110". They grey screens will increase the contrast / help with getting blacker blacks in a room without good light control. But if you're going to have blackout curtains that can truly black out the room, you might appreciate the higher gain for the HDR of a white screen.


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## FendersRule

Just ordered a 5050UB. How compatible is my Denon AVR-991?

https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-991-Multi-Source-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003M6A27A

What part of the projector would work, and what part won't be as utilized with it? Looks like it's new enough to support 3D.


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## DocOrange88

FendersRule said:


> Just ordered a 5050UB. How compatible is my Denon AVR-991?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-991-Multi-Source-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003M6A27A
> 
> What part of the projector would work, and what part won't be as utilized with it? Looks like it's new enough to support 3D.


The that AVR does not support hdmi 2.0 and does not support 4k at the spec level that the Projector can handle. You should be able to get 4K at 24fps but highly limited support due to no security. You likely will want to upgrade your AVR. Most AVR's today will be a upgrde and get you up to speed for only a few hundred bucks maybe less.


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## FendersRule

Thanks. My thinking is that my AVR-991 should support 1080p playback (as currently) including the Epson 4ke enhancement since iHDMI 1.4a does support 4k @ 24-30 FPS. The system would also support 3D, which I've never had before. So in this case, it meets my need for now and should just "work" with my PS3 and Xbox One.

When I want to actually playback 4k sources and also get HDR, then I will first want to get the appropriate player, but also will need to upgrade my AVR at that point as you've identified. I only have 1 UHD blu-ray right now...still primarily watch BD.

If I upgrade my AVR right now without having a 4k player, then I get zero benefit. Still can't play 4k sources, still can't get HDR...

Does my thinking make sense here? I'm thinking to upgrade in the future as a "package" deal...

My goal for now is to:

1) Replace my failing 8700UB.

2) Have bad ass 1080p Blu-ray picture quality. Play with the 4ke mode to see if it produces an even better image, or if it just blurs it up.

3) Have 3D support so I can start dabbling in that.

4) Have a much faster response rate for gaming.

My goal for the future would be to:

1) Replace AVR and get a UHD player that supports HDR to get the rest of the benefits of the 5050UB.


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## MGBPUFF

FendersRule said:


> Thanks. My thinking is that my AVR-991 should support 1080p playback (as currently) including the Epson 4ke enhancement since iHDMI 1.4a does support 4k @ 24-30 FPS. The system would also support 3D, which I've never had before. So in this case, it meets my need for now and should just "work" with my PS3 and Xbox One.
> 
> When I want to actually playback 4k sources and also get HDR, then I will first want to get the appropriate player, but also will need to upgrade my AVR at that point as you've identified. I only have 1 UHD blu-ray right now...still primarily watch BD.
> 
> If I upgrade my AVR right now without having a 4k player, then I get zero benefit. Still can't play 4k sources, still can't get HDR...
> 
> Does my thinking make sense here? I'm thinking to upgrade in the future as a "package" deal...
> 
> My goal for now is to:
> 
> 1) Replace my failing 8700UB.
> 
> 2) Have bad ass 1080p Blu-ray picture quality. Play with the 4ke mode to see if it produces an even better image, or if it just blurs it up.
> 
> 3) Have 3D support so I can start dabbling in that.
> 
> 4) Have a much faster response rate for gaming.
> 
> My goal for the future would be to:
> 
> 1) Replace AVR and get a UHD player that supports HDR to get the rest of the benefits of the 5050UB.


Fendersrule - go ahead and get a UHD player. They all have two HDMI's out, one goes directly to the 5050UB and one (configured for audio only) your AVR. If the UHD player has smart apps, you can use those for other 4K source material.


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## FendersRule

Thanks! That’s a good tip. I didn’t know that. Basically, it bypasses the AVR for video. Nice!

Well, I’m out for a celebration drink right now. I finally pulled the trigger. Lots of money....but having a projector is hands down worth it. 

I’m curious how well it will perform over the 8700UB.

The 8700UB was an awesome projector for its time. It still looked really good too. I got 10 years of daily use out of it, which is better than most people get from TVs. Expecting an upgrade for 1080p. 

The simple fact that you can adjust convergence on these is pretty mind blowing. With the 8700, it’s luck of the draw. My current one has good convergence. 

I have a bat cave. Flat painted walls.


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## CallingMrBenzo

MGBPUFF said:


> Fendersrule - go ahead and get a UHD player. They all have two HDMI's out, one goes directly to the 5050UB and one (configured for audio only) your AVR. If the UHD player has smart apps, you can use those for other 4K source material.




That’s a great suggestion however they don’t ALL have two HDMI outputs. So make sure the player you choose does. Higher end players always do. My Samsung doesn’t but my Panasonic UB820 does.


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## noob00224

Greg121986 said:


> Correct, I am not concerned with the available lens shift. I may mount the projector at the center of the screen, but I may also mount it up higher to get it out of the way of people walking by. I will experiment first before deciding on a permanent solution.
> 
> My concern is the actual cone of light that the projector will shoot out. I have attached some pics from the screen's perspective, and from the projector perspective. The wall in question is highlighted in green.
> 
> I think it should be OK. This is all a rough estimate, but judging by the screenshot from the projector perspective, I can still see the entire screen without the wall being in the way, so I would assume that the wall won't interfere.


You can use a floor plan of the room. Note the lens position. Decide on screen size. Take length of the screen and put in on the wall. Draw lines from the lens to the edges of the screen. 

That's why I mentioned lens shift.
If the PJ is on the center of the screen, and the wall on the right blocks the beam, lens shift (to the left) can be used.


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## Greg121986

noob00224 said:


> You can use a floor plan of the room. Note the lens position. Decide on screen size. Take length of the screen and put in on the wall. Draw lines from the lens to the edges of the screen.
> 
> That's why I mentioned lens shift.
> If the PJ is on the center of the screen, and the wall on the right blocks the beam, lens shift (to the left) can be used.


I understand what you're saying now. I didn't realize there was horizontal lens shift, I thought it was only vertical. At any rate, I expect to use very minimal lens shift. I'm pretty sure I have enough flexiblity with my placement such that I can optimize the projector placement.


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## WynsWrld98

Can a 5050/6050 owner please access the service menu via hold down Menu button 8 seconds then hit Esc twice and report the number next to # lamp replacements? I want to know if that number starts at zero or one for brand new A stock projectors. Thanks.


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## hdtv316

Can someone please clarify if 6050 unit is the same as 9400?

Epson 5050UB (USA) CR is 1m:1
Epson 6050UB (USA) CR is 1.2m:1
Epson 9400 (UK/EUROPE) CR is 1.2m:1.



Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

hdtv316 said:


> Can someone please clarify if 6050 unit is the same as 9400?
> 
> Epson 5050UB (USA) CR is 1m:1
> Epson 6050UB (USA) CR is 1.2m:1
> Epson 9400 (UK/EUROPE) CR is 1.2m:1.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


Only Epson could confirm if they are identical units and I doubt they're doing that to be honest. But the 6050 and the 9400 do share the same contrast ratio I can confirm that as can any website. Quite frankly they can't be identical because the power requirements are different between the various countries hence the need for different models.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Only Epson could confirm if they are identical units and I doubt they're doing that to be honest. But the 6050 and the 9400 do share the same contrast ratio I can confirm that as can any website. Quite frankly they can't be identical because the power requirements are different between the various countries hence the need for different models.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I reckon they are because the 5040 and 5050 share the same spec as the 9300 but the 6040 shares the spec of the 9400 including anamorphic mode which I don’t believe is present on the 5050.


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## FendersRule

Can someone do me a favor and tell me what 4ke settings you use for 1080p sources, like Blu-ray? I'm really curious to see if 4ke on vs off for Blu-rays performs on the 5050UB. In the past, I've seen it "soften" up the image. Does the 5050UB still soften up 1080p images with this setting on? 

My 5050UB arrives next week. Aside from checking/adjusting the convergence, and using the AVS calibration disk for brightness/contrast, I'm pretty much going to then start putting it to some use!

People have yet to talk about adjusting convergence, but I think that's such a cool feature. How is the convergence out of the box?

With my 8700UB, I never really cared to mess with the color profiles. It always to me looked good out of the box with the Cinema 2 setting--I use that setting for both gaming and for movies.

I'm sure with the 5050UB that there's a generally preferred setting for cinema/games that looks the most natural.


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## Luminated67

FendersRule said:


> Can someone do me a favor and tell me what 4ke settings you use for 1080p sources, like Blu-ray? I'm really curious to see if 4ke on vs off for Blu-rays performs on the 5050UB. In the past, I've seen it "soften" up the image. Does the 5050UB still soften up 1080p images with this setting on?
> 
> My 5050UB arrives next week. Aside from checking/adjusting the convergence, and using the AVS calibration disk for brightness/contrast, I'm pretty much going to then start putting it to some use!
> 
> People have yet to talk about adjusting convergence, but I think that's such a cool feature. How is the convergence out of the box?
> 
> With my 8700UB, I never really cared to mess with the color profiles. It always to me looked good out of the box with the Cinema 2 setting--I use that setting for both gaming and for movies.
> 
> I'm sure with the 5050UB that there's a generally preferred setting for cinema/games that looks the most natural.


Each disc is different based on the quality of the production, my rule of thumb is if it’s a grainy generally poor quality recording then I use 4K enhancement with either preset 1-2 but if the quality of record in top notch it use preset 3-4, I feel preset 5 is too much plus I leave the sharpness at the factory default of 5.

If you are find it softening the image I’d check the focus and convergence.


----------



## FendersRule

Hmm. I'm curious to find a one-size-fits-all setting since I won't be re-doing it for every movie. Personally, I like grain, and like unaffected images. 

Sounds like I'll just need to play around with it using a range of Blu-rays and find out what works the best.


----------



## Dilema

hdtv316 said:


> Can someone please clarify if 6050 unit is the same as 9400?
> 
> Epson 5050UB (USA) CR is 1m:1
> Epson 6050UB (USA) CR is 1.2m:1
> Epson 9400 (UK/EUROPE) CR is 1.2m:1.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


Yes in international manual it is indicated like this. 

Tw9400 same as 6050ub in the States
Tw8400 same as 5050ub in the States


----------



## generic_user

*Color Uniformity issue in HDR mode...*

I've got the Epson 5050UB (1.01 Firmware) connected to a Windows 10 computer (Nvidia GeForce 1080 GTX -> Pioneer VSX-LX102 -> Epson) in HDR mode. Epson states that the Signal Status is HDR10. I haven't adjusted any HDR settings on the Epson so they should all be defaults. The Epson is in Digital Cinema color mode.

I quickly noticed that the center of the screen tends to have more green than it should and all around the border of the screen, there's too much red.

I tried using Menu -> Extended -> Display... -> Color Uniformity... adjustments, but they have zero effect on what I see in Windows after saving the settings. Just for fun, I tried maxing the settings so that the change would be completely obvious in that Color Uniformity adjustment area, but when I'd hit the Enter button on my remote to toggle back to Windows to check on those settings, it's as if I made no adjustments at all.

Do these adjustments only affect SDR output? I did notice that the screen went blank for a bit before displaying the adjustments screen -- this is something I usually only see when changing video modes.

I took a screen shot of the app output and verified in Photoshop using the color picker that it indeed was outputting a uniform white(ish) screen.

I then took a picture with my cell phone of the screen output, and used the color picker to sample the two different areas showing that indeed there are color issues in those areas.

I've included lots of example screenshots of settings, and examples of what I'm seeing. Has anyone else ran into this?


----------



## generic_user

WynsWrld98 said:


> Can a 5050/6050 owner please access the service menu via hold down Menu button 8 seconds then hit Esc twice and report the number next to # lamp replacements? I want to know if that number starts at zero or one for brand new A stock projectors. Thanks.


Mine shows 0.


----------



## cemo62

Hello friends

I have an Epson 5040(tw9300)

Is it a worth upgrade to jumping to 5050? Can you please tell me the most important side of buying 5050 over 5040?

Thank you


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

cemo62 said:


> Hello friends
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Epson 5040(tw9300)
> 
> 
> 
> Is it a worth upgrade to jumping to 5050? Can you please tell me the most important side of buying 5050 over 5040?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you




Please take the time to read this thread. That has been asked and answered several times. This thread is not long and any purchase of this nature deserves some basic research.


----------



## Luminated67

cemo62 said:


> Hello friends
> 
> I have an Epson 5040(tw9300)
> 
> Is it a worth upgrade to jumping to 5050? Can you please tell me the most important side of buying 5050 over 5040?
> 
> Thank you


As @CallingMrBenzo said this particular question has been asked a few times so it would be best re-reading the entire thread but the short answer is yes it’s worth it as not only is it’s HDR ability night and day better it’s e-shift has improved as well.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

WynsWrld98 said:


> Can a 5050/6050 owner please access the service menu via hold down Menu button 8 seconds then hit Esc twice and report the number next to # lamp replacements? I want to know if that number starts at zero or one for brand new A stock projectors. Thanks.


Maybe QC installed a new lamp at the factory during testing?


----------



## bdht

Hows motion on this projector compared to the ht5550? Im used to a w1070 using madvrs smooth motion(frame blending) and supersampling at 60hz


----------



## Luminated67

bdht said:


> Hows motion on this projector compared to the ht5550? Im used to a w1070 using madvrs smooth motion(frame blending) and supersampling at 60hz


DLP projectors are well known for their motion ability so I think you will feel the Epson to be worse than yours BenQ. Personally I don’t have any issue with the motion on my Epson but you might feel different if you are more sensitive.


----------



## User Namedocwho10th

jeahrens said:


> Certainly valid. These do have a good warranty and backing. So others may find it a worthwhile option.


I have bought nothing but refurbs and saved tons of money!! I have all of my UB collection going back 25 years and they are still running great. I also buy refurbs for the majority of my electronics. I am an old fart so that's why I learned my lessons a long time ago. NEVER pay anything near retail!! Whats funny is that a lot of the Epson projectors when they first went into people's homes had major issues, power supplies going out, overheating, dead pixels etc, so they got refurbished and people who waited like me for about 1 year got them at 50 percent off. Case in point, the 5040 that was plagued with a list problems, I got for just $1300 and now it's going for around $900, and it's again running perfect. So if you wait good things come to you!! (old saying...just like me) ;-) Let the guinea pigs go to the slaughter first, and you will not only be able to buy a perfect non problematic projector, but you will laugh yourself all the way to el banko!


----------



## generic_user

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Please take the time to read this thread. That has been asked and answered several times. This thread is not long and any purchase of this nature deserves some basic research.


These posts never work. It's like playing whack-a-mole. Always a new mole in the future.

As someone who got to page 34 before giving up on finding any interesting content, I disagree about the length not being long observation too. Perhaps relative to other threads here it isn't long, but man, 99% of what's here (including this post) would be much better in something like Discord where it can evaporate with time. I guess we don't have someone here to distill the content? Maybe set up a FAQ in the first post for questions like this?

Otherwise, we should have the ability to tag posts - things like "interesting" or "idle conversation" would be great to filter against.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Just do a search for 5040 in this thread. It cuts the number of pages down from 79 to 12.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=165247970


----------



## skylarlove1999

generic_user said:


> These posts never work. It's like playing whack-a-mole. Always a new mole in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> As someone who got to page 34 before giving up on finding any interesting content, I disagree about the length not being long observation too. Perhaps relative to other threads here it isn't long, but man, 99% of what's here (including this post) would be much better in something like Discord where it can evaporate with time. I guess we don't have someone here to distill the content? Maybe set up a FAQ in the first post for questions like this?
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, we should have the ability to tag posts - things like "interesting" or "idle conversation" would be great to filter against.


Are you volunteering to set up an FAQ for this post and to also edit the posts into different categories and topics?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## generic_user

skylarlove1999 said:


> Are you volunteering to set up an FAQ for this post and to also edit the posts into different categories and topics?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes. Please PM me if you have the ability to grant this becuase you're just making this worse by posting here.


----------



## skylarlove1999

generic_user said:


> Yes. Please PM me if you have the ability to grant this becuase you're just making this worse by posting here.


So you have made exactly 36 post including the two complaining about how things are here at AVS forum and you insulted me by saying I'm making things worse by replying to you and asking you a legitimate question. Anyone on here can compile a list of FAQ by going through the thread and seeing the answers then you can post that. Quite frankly I'm growing a little tired of people like yourself in life in general whose sole purpose it seems is to complain but you never provide Solutions or even look for them. If you don't feel you're getting what you need from the content you could always try contacting Epson. Or doing some research of your own. Or about a hundred other things I can think of but that would require you taking your time which apparently you think is more valuable than other people's since you want them to do the work for you and not to post anything you're not remotely interested in. You remind me of that commercial for Home Improvement projects when the totally clueless guy ask his neighbor to do the research about which contractors are best and to get him references and to do it in the next week cuz he has a project he wants to start. Good luck with your attitude in life honestly I'm just kind of sick of it on this form and in life in general which is why I've been posting less and less.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> So you have made exactly 36 post including the two complaining about how things are here at AVS forum and you insulted me by saying I'm making things worse by replying to you and asking you a legitimate question. Anyone on here can compile a list of FAQ by going through the thread and seeing the answers then you can post that. Quite frankly I'm growing a little tired of people like yourself in life in general whose sole purpose it seems is to complain but you never provide Solutions or even look for them. If you don't feel you're getting what you need from the content you could always try contacting Epson. Or doing some research of your own. Or about a hundred other things I can think of but that would require you taking your time which apparently you think is more valuable than other people's since you want them to do the work for you and not to post anything you're not remotely interested in. You remind me of that commercial for Home Improvement projects when the totally clueless guy ask his neighbor to do the research about which contractors are best and to get him references and to do it in the next week cuz he has a project he wants to start. Good luck with your attitude in life honestly I'm just kind of sick of it on this form and in life in general which is why I've been posting less and less.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




What is it lately. People wanting maximum reward for minimum effort or instant gratification. I feel like the few posted reviews by projector central and projector reviews have all covered this question. A basic google search brought an article just comparing the differences between the units. Oh well.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> What is it lately. People wanting maximum reward for minimum effort or instant gratification. I feel like the few posted reviews by projector central and projector reviews have all covered this question. A basic google search brought an article just comparing the differences between the units. Oh well.


Generally speaking people who just like to complain. Combine that with people who think their time is more valuable than other people and you get very entitled people posting who honestly haven't put in the work for me to dignify their question with an honest reply. If I can see someone has been posting here and adding to the conversation and diligently trying to find an answer I will work pretty hard to find the answer if that means going to the internet using my own personal experience or even reaching out to my contacts at Epson. But for someone who is just lazy and complaining I'm never going to email Epson or pick up the phone and call them to get a question answered. it's just that simple.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

generic_user said:


> Yes. Please PM me if you have the ability to grant this becuase you're just making this worse by posting here.


Don’t want to sound awful here but you’ve been a member since 2002 and only posted 36 times doesn’t suggest someone who wants to contribute to this forum at any level. There are REAL members on here who try to offer advice and meaningful input and one of them is the person you have suggested isn’t helping.

Really????


----------



## MGBPUFF

Nobody likes a put down. I'm surprised the moderator puts up with several 'elitists' here. No one is asking anyone to do a research project for them. If you know the answer off the top of your head, just simply answer or don't answer at all. Your choice!


----------



## bdht

Luminated67 said:


> DLP projectors are well known for their motion ability so I think you will feel the Epson to be worse than yours BenQ. Personally I don’t have any issue with the motion on my Epson but you might feel different if you are more sensitive.


Gotcha, I'm actually considering trying to find an older used 3lcd or lcos projector with an iris so I can see the differences in the tech vs dlp before purchasing an expensive 4k projector.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MGBPUFF said:


> Nobody likes a put down. I'm surprised the moderator puts up with several 'elitists' here. No one is asking anyone to do a research project for them. If you know the answer off the top of your head, just simply answer or don't answer at all. Your choice!


Nobody likes him very much

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dilema

MidnightWatcher said:


> Just do a search for 5040 in this thread. It cuts the number of pages down from 79 to 12.
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=165247970


Link Doesn’t work for me. I would like to have some summary as well from someone who actually experienced the difference. Reading all pages is difficult to follow for some.


----------



## Luminated67

MGBPUFF said:


> Nobody likes a put down. I'm surprised the moderator puts up with several 'elitists' here. No one is asking anyone to do a research project for them. If you know the answer off the top of your head, just simply answer or don't answer at all. Your choice!


I will glad provide info as you are fully aware but since I didn't own the 5040/9300 prior to the 9400 I can't give an accurate opinion, but the bottomline is this particular discussion has been repeated several times already so a quick search for 5040 should narrow down the length of going through page after page.

P.S. No one is an elitist on here, far from it..... what you have is members who frequently post and share opinions and advice where ever possible based on their experience. I'd like to think people find my input helpful because that is all I ever try to do, it's a great hobby and the more than experience it the better IMHO.

Here's a video on Youtube


----------



## Alaric

skylarlove1999 said:


> Only Epson could confirm if they are identical units and I doubt they're doing that to be honest. But the 6050 and the 9400 do share the same contrast ratio I can confirm that as can any website. Quite frankly they can't be identical because the power requirements are different between the various countries hence the need for different models.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Actually the 9400 has a switchable power supply and an iec socket. I recall checking mine in the early days when the US release date was late and someone was considering importing!

Given the firmware, epson xls of codes and features bundles them together, they're VERY similar 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

generic_user said:


> These posts never work. It's like playing whack-a-mole. Always a new mole in the future.
> 
> Maybe set up a FAQ in the first post for questions like this?
> 
> Otherwise, we should have the ability to tag posts - things like "interesting" or "idle conversation" would be great to filter against.


Already set up an FAQ - https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home

It's TW9400 based, but it's pretty applicable to the 7400 and hence the 5050 and 6050.

I do often feel the Net as a whole is pretty lazy and it's easier for the same question to be just asked and asked!


----------



## lganz316

Anyone here knows if Fire TV stick will work with this projector?

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


----------



## Giovano Santos

i dont like product developed by epson


----------



## skylarlove1999

Giovano Santos said:


> i dont like product developed by epson


Thanks for your contribution to the thread

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## lganz316

Giovano Santos said:


> i dont like product developed by epson


Wow. Thanks for the exposing the truth lol.

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


----------



## lmo

Dumb question, but maybe a fellow owner can help me. I ceiling mounted my 6050 without first inverting picture to the ceiling mount setting - and I can’t see the menu on my ceiling to flip it. Would someone be kind enough to post the remote key order to invert? I could always take down the projector, change, and remount, but this would save me some effort!!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> Page 71 of your Epson's user manual.
> Took 60 seconds to find it. 🤷
> C'mon.[/quote @Gellert Thank you for taking the time to do that. I did that on a couple of projectors. It is rather difficult to read the menu upside down and out of focus once you have ceiling mounted the projector. Thanks again for helping out a fellow forum member in a time of urgent need.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Gellert said:
> 
> 
> 
> Page 71 of your Epson's user manual.
> Took 60 seconds to find it.
> C'mon.[/quote @Gellert Thank you for taking the time to do that. I did that on a couple of projectors. It is rather difficult to read the menu upside down and out of focus once you have ceiling mounted the projector. Thanks again for helping out a fellow forum member in a time of urgent need.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It’s not that hard. Hit lens button and get the picture off the ceiling like I did. Then bend yourself all weird to read it
Click to expand...


----------



## Luminated67

What is going on lately with this thread, there seems to be a minority of little posting members both old and new posting argumentative and disruptive posts to stir up tension and derail what is a very well conducted and informative thread.

Very odd behaviour.


----------



## lmo

Gellert said:


> Page 71 of your Epson's user manual.
> Took 60 seconds to find it. 🤷
> C'mon.


If you don’t want to answer, then simply don’t. But I won’t be chastised by someone like you for posting a question in a forum devoted to the device I am posting about. This is why, despite having been a part of this forum for the better part of two decades, I very rarely visit any more. 

Thanks for not answering the question and being a jerk (I have the manual, I asked for the button sequence because I can’t see the menu in my setup).


----------



## lmo

CallingMrBenzo said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It’s not that hard. Hit lens button and get the picture off the ceiling like I did. Then bend yourself all weird to read it
> 
> 
> 
> My lens shift wouldn’t get the menu down to a visible area on screen and unfortunately I still have an unfinished ceiling and couldn’t do that either.
Click to expand...


----------



## skylarlove1999

lmo said:


> If you don’t want to answer, then simply don’t. But I won’t be chastised by someone like you for posting a question in a forum devoted to the device I am posting about. This is why, despite having been a part of this forum for the better part of two decades, I very rarely visit any more.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for not answering the question and being a jerk (I have the manual, I asked for the button sequence because I can’t see the menu in my setup).


I am sorry for your negative experience today. I was hoping you would read the post about me being sincerely appreciate that someone answer the question I'm trying to put somebody in your shoes because I've been there before just needed help. I agree that the poster just need to simply answer the question or just ignore it they didn't need to be ignorant. Once again let me apologize and I hope you do come back to the Forum. I'm glad you stood up for yourself and would love to see more people who respond to the negative ones.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Luminated67 said:


> What is going on lately with this thread, there seems to be a minority of little posting members both old and new posting argumentative and disruptive posts to stir up tension and derail what is a very well conducted and informative thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Very odd behaviour.




I read the entire AV forum thread as this thread was just started prior to my purchase. Zero postings on the 110 pages I read that resemble some of the shenanigans in this one in the past week. 


Odd indeed.


----------



## skylarlove1999

@MGBPUFF and @Gellert. Two of you seem to be stirring things up without adding very much to the conversation. I and everyone else here would greatly appreciate it if you don't have anything nice to say just refrain from saying anything at all. I know I have asked this before from both of you. I really do not want to drag Mark Henninger into this bs issue but I have no problem sending him a direct message and having him review this thread. It is privilege to be on this site. People who have added way more to AVS Forum have been permanently banned from posting. Please respect your fellow forum members. These are my last words on the subject. Next step is to dm Mark and let him decide what actions need to be taken.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## tsharp

From http://www.reviewtranslations.com/projection_calculator_en.html , I put in what will be my lens to screen, room dimensions, and 133" 16:9 1.0 gain AT screen.

The luminance returns this - see screenshot. Is that ok? Too bright for a light controlled room?











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

tsharp said:


> From http://www.reviewtranslations.com/projection_calculator_en.html , I put in what will be my lens to screen, room dimensions, and 133" 16:9 1.0 gain AT screen.
> 
> The luminance returns this - see screenshot. Is that ok? Too bright for a light controlled room?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't think that would be too many lumens most likely you'll be running the lamp in high-power for HDR and in eco mode for SDR. I would take those estimates with a grain of salt as well. Do you plan on using the color filter for HDR content? If you do you will lose some more lumens but should still be fine.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> I don't think that would be too many lumens most likely you'll be running the lamp in high-power for HDR and in eco mode for SDR. I would take those estimates with a grain of salt as well. Do you plan on using the color filter for HDR content? If you do you will lose some more lumens but should still be fine.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That maximum recommended footlamberts on that scale is for SDR not HDR. HDR would probably be around 33-37 footlamberts

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## tsharp

skylarlove1999 said:


> That maximum recommended footlamberts on that scale is for SDR not HDR. HDR would probably be around 33-37 footlamberts
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Ah! Gotcha - thanks for the input. I don't have drywall yet but making sure all plans are sound.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



tsharp said:


> From http://www.reviewtranslations.com/projection_calculator_en.html , I put in what will be my lens to screen, room dimensions, and 133" 16:9 1.0 gain AT screen.
> 
> The luminance returns this - see screenshot. Is that ok? Too bright for a light controlled room?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




For HDR to be done right JVC has specified 50ftlbs to be the ideal target number when they released the new crop of 4K projectors. When I had my projector calibrated Chad said the more lumens the better the experience I was at 79/80 calibrated for HDR and 30 for SDR


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> For HDR to be done right JVC has specified 50ftlbs to be the ideal target number when they released the new crop of 4K projectors. When I had my projector calibrated Chad said the more lumens the better the experience I was at 79/80 calibrated for HDR and 30 for SDR


Did Chad say that he was getting the JVC projectors to give him 50 foot Lamberts? I'm just curious I hadn't heard that any of them besides the 4500 could get close to that

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## tsharp

CallingMrBenzo said:


> For HDR to be done right JVC has specified 50ftlbs to be the ideal target number when they released the new crop of 4K projectors. When I had my projector calibrated Chad said the more lumens the better the experience I was at 79/80 calibrated for HDR and 30 for SDR


Yeah, that site I was using was actually set on the 5040, so it's not 100% accurate. Just saw that when I was playing with the projection angles and was concerned. When I use projectorcentral [1] and the below settings, I get 44 fL. It says that's for high ambient light, and I have a completely light controllable space. Not sure what power mode that is, but I hope I can still get HDR since my cables are already pulled!

16:9
16' throw
133" Image Size
1 Screen Gain

[1] - https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## FendersRule

Got it on and finally got hte image centered properly. Looks nice and vibrant.

For some reason, my PS3 is "not supported" by the 5050UB. I swapped the HDMI cable and it didn't make a difference. The Xbox One pops right on up.

Something about the PS3 that the projector doesn't like. Any ideas?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

tsharp said:


> Yeah, that site I was using was actually set on the 5040, so it's not 100% accurate. Just saw that when I was playing with the projection angles and was concerned. When I use projectorcentral [1] and the below settings, I get 44 fL. It says that's for high ambient light, and I have a completely light controllable space. Not sure what power mode that is, but I hope I can still get HDR since my cables are already pulled!
> 
> 
> 
> 16:9
> 
> 16' throw
> 
> 133" Image Size
> 
> 1 Screen Gain
> 
> 
> 
> [1] - https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm




I’m in an 80% velvet covered space. Windows covered etc. I used to think most 4K movies were dim and always played with the HDR slider. Since the calibration which was in Natural mode I’ve never touched it. I was worried initially when discussing with Chad that we would forgo using the filter giving up 10% P3 coverage but I’ve been quite happy since. 

Your screen is bigger than mine. I’m at 115 2:35:1 at 16 ft throw as well. I’m also at 1.0 gain. I think you still should have enough light.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Did Chad say that he was getting the JVC projectors to give him 50 foot Lamberts? I'm just curious I hadn't heard that any of them besides the 4500 could get close to that
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




I mentioned to him that I read the magic number from JVC was 50 foot Lambert’s and he said it was a good target to achieved and that more light output the better for HDR. 

We did discuss there calibrated P3 color, contrast and how they handled HDR.


----------



## skylarlove1999

FendersRule said:


> Got it on and finally got hte image centered properly. Looks nice and vibrant.
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason, my PS3 is "not supported" by the 5050UB. I swapped the HDMI cable and it didn't make a difference. The Xbox One pops right on up.
> 
> 
> 
> Something about the PS3 that the projector doesn't like. Any ideas?


Are you running a PS3 directly to the 5050 or you going through a receiver?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## FendersRule

I have it going through my Denon AVS-991, as is the Xbox One is doing.......


----------



## skylarlove1999

FendersRule said:


> I have it going through my Denon AVS-991, as is the Xbox One is doing.......


Try running your PS3 directly to the 5050 and see if you get any different results. I don't believe your AVR supports 4K. Are you trying to get 4K or are you saying you just aren't getting any signal from your PS3?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## FendersRule

I'm just trying to get ANY signal at all from it. I could run it straight to the 5050UB, but something tells me there's something in the PS3's setting that the 5050UB doesn't like.

I doubt the AVR is the issue, being that my Xbox One powers through just fine. I even swapped the Xbox One's cable to the PS3 (through the Denon) and it still had the same issue.

I did the PS3 power button hold-down thing, and no avail.

I suppose I could just get rid of my PS3 and use my Xbox One to play Blu-rays. That's the only reason I was holding around with the PS3 anyways...it's a nice blu-ray player still.


----------



## FendersRule

Hmm. plugged it directly up and it works....which I can't really do long term.


----------



## drober30

FendersRule said:


> Hmm. plugged it directly up and it works....which I can't really do long term.


Have you gone into the Denons setup menu and checked that the HDMI input for the playstation is assigned?

Also, have you plugged the playstation into the HDMI port your using for xbox? 

Does the Xbox work in the HDMI port your trying to hook the playstation up to?

Process of elimination will point to setup issue or failed HDMI port.


----------



## skylarlove1999

FendersRule said:


> I'm just trying to get ANY signal at all from it. I could run it straight to the 5050UB, but something tells me there's something in the PS3's setting that the 5050UB doesn't like.
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt the AVR is the issue, being that my Xbox One powers through just fine. I even swapped the Xbox One's cable to the PS3 (through the Denon) and it still had the same issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I did the PS3 power button hold-down thing, and no avail.
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose I could just get rid of my PS3 and use my Xbox One to play Blu-rays. That's the only reason I was holding around with the PS3 anyways...it's a nice blu-ray player still.


Under the Advanced settings under EDID what do you have that set to? You do not want it on Expanded since your AVR does not support 4K
Since I have seen that cause some handshake issues.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## FendersRule

Solved. It was the "Deep Color Output" setting that didn't jive on the PS3. That's basically HDR. I set that to "off" and the PS3 purs....

In Layman's terms, the PS3 got a signal that said "Hey, I support 4k and HDR!" 

The PS3 then went "Sweet, turn all that HDR (or 10-bit + color stuff) goodness on!"

Meanwhile, my Denon AVR just can't pass that stuff through due to how old it is. PS3 didn't know.

Similar results to Xbox One if you set it on from 8-bit to 10-bit, the screen goes black.

Skylar, your recommendation was on-spot. I'll post my initial feedback shortly.


----------



## skylarlove1999

FendersRule said:


> Solved. It was the "Deep Color Output" setting that didn't jive on the PS3. That's basically HDR. I set that to "off" and the PS3 purs....
> 
> 
> 
> In Layman's terms, the PS3 got a signal that said "Hey, I support 4k and HDR!"
> 
> 
> 
> The PS3 then went "Sweet, turn all that HDR (or 10-bit + color stuff) goodness on!"
> 
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, my Denon AVR just can't pass that stuff through due to how old it is. PS3 didn't know.
> 
> 
> 
> Similar results to Xbox One if you set it on from 8-bit to 10-bit, the screen goes black.
> 
> 
> 
> Skylar, your recommendation was on-spot. I'll post my initial feedback shortly.


Glad we could all work together to get it working. Take your time and enjoy. Good times. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## FendersRule

OK, here's some quick scatter brain thoughts.

I calibrated all modes. By "calibrated", I mean uber basics, such as turning off interpolation and setting brightness and contrast only.

I find that "Natural" and "Bright Cinema" offer the best picture out of the box. "Cinema" is "Eco" mode. It sets off warmer tones and doesn't allow the image to pop at all. I guess a good mode if you want to...save energy?

Honestly, it's hard to tell the difference from Natural and Bright Cinema for my eyes. Both clipped whites the same on the AVS calibration disc. Both of these modes I would gladly "set it and forget" it to for gaming and cinema.

"Bright Digital" gave out the brightest picture I have ever seen in projectors. I felt almost blinded. This thing pours lumens out. Be warned, this mode will rev the fan up more.

Keep in mind my feedback is not using UHD discs, nor is it using 10-bit colors. I'm using the 5050UB with old stuff, but old good 1080p Blu-ray stuff.

First off, 4k enhancement for 1080p content blurs it up fine text to my eyes, just like I would imagine based on previous Epson screenshots. For movies, it is hard to tell when you switch it on/off, but for dashboards (PS3 AND Xbox), it blurs the text. By blur, don't take it literally, but I mean "smooths." It doesn't allow that crisp edge to be as crisp as it was with it off. I am deciding from this point on to leave 4k enhancement off for EVERYTHING 1080p sourced. Honestly, my take is that if you don't see pixel structure, leave this "Off" and don't look back for 1080p stuff.

Secondly, image enhancement is really cool. 4 and 5 are too harsh. 1 is not good enough. 2-3 are good settings, and it really adds a nice picture for everything I've seen thus far--far more than 4k enhancement does or should do. Right now I have it on "3", but I may further explore to see what is best, "2" or "3". 

I'm a person that doesn't like my image altered or fussed with and image enhancement really is something that I can do. But, one thing I won't do is set a mode for each thing I do. So I will continue to see if "2" or "3" is best for 100% of everything. If it's 2, then I will leave it on 2. So far, 3 seems appropriate for the 3 movies I tested with.

How does this compare to an old 8700UB? It's not going to change your 1080p film experience in general, but I will say first and foremost the picture is VERY vibrant and punchy, where-as the 8700 was muted (but just as accurate). This thing obviously has more contrast--I can't tell you if the blacks seem blacker (probably so) but I can tell you that there is far more contrast in the picture which gives a pleasing image. Definitely an upgrade.

Not a $3,000 upgrade if all you want to do is 1080p 8-bit stuff, but definitely an upgrade. 

This is a very good projector for 1080p cinema viewing. I'm excited to see what it does in gaming, HDR, and UHDs.


----------



## MGBPUFF

lganz316 said:


> Anyone here knows if Fire TV stick will work with this projector?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


I don't own a 5050UB, but in lieu of the PS troubles on the 5040UB, I would not try to power the Firestick from the 5050UB HDMI. Plug the Firestick power adapter into the same receptacle that powers the projector, just to be safe and not add increased PS load to the 5050UB. However, the projector does not have built in speakers, so what are your plans for sound?


----------



## Luminated67

MGBPUFF said:


> I don't own a 5050UB, but in lieu of the PS troubles on the 5040UB, I would not try to power the Firestick from the 5050UB HDMI. Plug the Firestick power adapter into the same receptacle that powers the projector, just to be safe and not add increased PS load to the 5050UB.


Agreed


----------



## Alaric

tsharp said:


> From http://www.reviewtranslations.com/projection_calculator_en.html , I put in what will be my lens to screen, room dimensions, and 133" 16:9 1.0 gain AT screen.
> 
> The luminance returns this - see screenshot. Is that ok? Too bright for a light controlled room?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Epson has an iris which you can stopper down, and will still work in normal/fast within that range!

I'm on a 120" screen, velvet/velour batcave and for HD/SDR i've got the IRIS notched down by 4 or 5 spots on eco power to give me 30ftl iirc

HDR eats light, particularly with the filter and that needs high power mode, but i can get away with Medium using a Natural non filter setting depending on movies and taste!

Put simply, you can never have too much light


----------



## tsharp

Alaric said:


> The Epson has an iris which you can stopper down, and will still work in normal/fast within that range!
> 
> I'm on a 120" screen, velvet/velour batcave and for HD/SDR i've got the IRIS notched down by 4 or 5 spots on eco power to give me 30ftl iirc
> 
> HDR eats light, particularly with the filter and that needs high power mode, but i can get away with Medium using a Natural non filter setting depending on movies and taste!
> 
> Put simply, you can never have too much light


Wow, I seriously have so much learning to do. I've never owned a projector and have only been focused on the build for now. Can't wait!


----------



## Luminated67

tsharp said:


> Wow, I seriously have so much learning to do. I've never owned a projector and have only been focused on the build for now. Can't wait!


Hope you have deep pockets because once bitten it's a money pit if you aren't careful. :


----------



## ckronengold

Luminated67 said:


> Hope you have deep pockets because once bitten it's a money pit if you aren't careful. :


It's a money pit even when you are careful.


----------



## FendersRule

What mode/settings for 3D do you guys use/find the best?

I'm assuming with Epson nowadays, that all I do is just register at their website and I'm protected?

What do you guys do the MPEG reduction and Noise Reduction? Seems like most everyone turns that stuff off...I think I'll probably do that.


----------



## DunMunro

Another 5050 review:

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/epson-home-cinema-5050ub-pro-uhd-3lcd-projector-review-0


----------



## tsharp

Me again! My 5050 is sitting in a box while we finish the basement. I've been so focused on speaker layout, where walls go, where outlets go, I realized that drywall goes up next week, and I'm finally at the point of "Shoot, I need to find a receiver!"

Now, I have owned receivers in the past but have never had more than a 2.0. I'm building from scratch here. The Marantz SR7013 is top of my list but the price point is high. Is it overkill for what I'm wanting to do or do I sell it to my self as future-proofing? What was that said a couple posts ago about money pit...

I'll have:
Epson 5050
5.2.4 with no plans to ever go to 7.x.x
In-wall Episode 1700 Series for L,C,R,Surrounds,Atmos (in-ceiling)
133" AT 16:9
Xbox One
Apple TV or Shield or both
BR player of some sort - need to research this too!
Second zone with TV
Cheap turntable but music is not high priority

Important to me:
IMAX Enhanced
Dolby Atmos
Audyssey or similar
I would like to duplicate Zone 1 to Zone 2 TV so folks can watch a game on the projector screen or on the other side of the room by a game table. Not sure if this is even possible


----------



## skylarlove1999

tsharp said:


> Me again! My 5050 is sitting in a box while we finish the basement. I've been so focused on speaker layout, where walls go, where outlets go, I realized that drywall goes up next week, and I'm finally at the point of "Shoot, I need to find a receiver!"
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I have owned receivers in the past but have never had more than a 2.0. I'm building from scratch here. The Marantz SR7013 is top of my list but the price point is high. Is it overkill for what I'm wanting to do or do I sell it to my self as future-proofing? What was that said a couple posts ago about money pit...
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have:
> 
> Epson 5050
> 
> 5.2.4 with no plans to ever go to 7.x.x
> 
> In-wall Episode 1700 Series for L,C,R,Surrounds,Atmos (in-ceiling)
> 
> 133" AT 16:9
> 
> Xbox One
> 
> Apple TV or Shield or both
> 
> BR player of some sort - need to research this too!
> 
> Second zone with TV
> 
> Cheap turntable but music is not high priority
> 
> 
> 
> Important to me:
> 
> IMAX Enhanced
> 
> Dolby Atmos
> 
> Audyssey or similar
> 
> I would like to duplicate Zone 1 to Zone 2 TV so folks can watch a game on the projector screen or on the other side of the room by a game table. Not sure if this is even possible


When playing main zone and an additional zone you will need to keep in mind how many speakers can be powered by the receiver at once. I have owned the 4500 and currently own the 6500. I run 7.1.4. The Marantz 7013 can power a max of 9 channels at once so you would need additional amplification to run your main zone 5.2.4 and 2 channels of another zone at the same time. The 6500 can power 11 channels at once so you could run 5.2.4 in main zone and two channels in another zone. The 6500 is the only receiver on your list capable of powering your main zone and and an additional zone in the configuration you prefer.

Safe and Sound is an authorized dealer for Denon and should have the full manufacturer's warranty on an open box purchase that would save you a considerable amount of money.
https://www.safeandsoundhq.com/prod...1EuaPMWK4kcWLV99l3yxvUDdtgVW6P0EaAnl2EALw_wcB

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

tsharp said:


> Me again! My 5050 is sitting in a box while we finish the basement. I've been so focused on speaker layout, where walls go, where outlets go, I realized that drywall goes up next week, and I'm finally at the point of "Shoot, I need to find a receiver!"
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I have owned receivers in the past but have never had more than a 2.0. I'm building from scratch here. The Marantz SR7013 is top of my list but the price point is high. Is it overkill for what I'm wanting to do or do I sell it to my self as future-proofing? What was that said a couple posts ago about money pit...
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have:
> 
> Epson 5050
> 
> 5.2.4 with no plans to ever go to 7.x.x
> 
> In-wall Episode 1700 Series for L,C,R,Surrounds,Atmos (in-ceiling)
> 
> 133" AT 16:9
> 
> Xbox One
> 
> Apple TV or Shield or both
> 
> BR player of some sort - need to research this too!
> 
> Second zone with TV
> 
> Cheap turntable but music is not high priority
> 
> 
> 
> Important to me:
> 
> IMAX Enhanced
> 
> Dolby Atmos
> 
> Audyssey or similar
> 
> I would like to duplicate Zone 1 to Zone 2 TV so folks can watch a game on the projector screen or on the other side of the room by a game table. Not sure if this is even possible


I would also like to say that in the way of honoring what the 5050 thread is meant for that we shouldn't go more than a couple replies about your receiver issues. Which receiver to choose would be best over in the amplifiers receivers threads. Thank you for understanding please see my answer above.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Only thing I would suggest in addition to which @skylarlove1999 has said is that you could save yourself a few dollars and go for last year's model, the 6400 is every bit as good and you should be able to pick one up for 25%-30% less than the 6500.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> Only thing I would suggest in addition to which @skylarlove1999 has said is that you could save yourself a few dollars and go for last year's model, the 6400 is every bit as good and you should be able to pick one up for 25%-30% less than the 6500.


That is a very good point as well. But safe and sound does have an open box 6500 for roughly 30% off right now

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

Had my 5050 calibrated yesterday by HDTVbyChad. Very reasonably priced and was at my house from 10am to 4:30pm. Granted the first hour was spent remounting my projector, but thats a different story. 

Super psyched with how things turned out. Walked away with an SDR, SDR Bright, and HDR setting, all using Natural mode. I was a little bummed to discover that I couldn't use the Digital Cinema mode (and get the full P3 spectrum) without killing the HDR highlights. I was pretty sure I had more than enough light at a 14'6" throw to 110" screen. (Projector Central calculated 1100 lumens, which would be giving up about 30% of the light output. Chad figured it was more like 50% light lost.) But thats more of a "brain problem" than an "eyes problem." 

Just wanted to re-emphasize how settings really do depend on your specific setup, room conditions, etc, and even vary unit to unit. 

I had been testing the Projector Reviews HDR and HDR Bright settings as well as the settings @Alaric has shared. Both of which I was pretty happy with. But take a look at the differences when they were measured before and after. Pretty significant differences. 

Not saying @Alaric's settings were bad. They were right for his room. But I completely understand the reluctance to share settings now. Or at least the futility of it. Truth be told, I'm more of a "you can try it, but its not gonna work guy."


----------



## Luminated67

^ Calibrations are very room/screen specific and unless your room is a bat cave and in the 110-120” screen dimensions the settings provided by @Alaric won’t be right or probably even close.


----------



## ckronengold

Luminated67 said:


> ^ Calibrations are very room/screen specific and unless your room is a bat cave and in the 110-120” screen dimensions the settings provided by @Alaric won’t be right or probably even close.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

ckronengold said:


> Had my 5050 calibrated yesterday by HDTVbyChad. Very reasonably priced and was at my house from 10am to 4:30pm. Granted the first hour was spent remounting my projector, but thats a different story.
> 
> 
> 
> Super psyched with how things turned out. Walked away with an SDR, SDR Bright, and HDR setting, all using Natural mode. I was a little bummed to discover that I couldn't use the Digital Cinema mode (and get the full P3 spectrum) without killing the HDR highlights. I was pretty sure I had more than enough light at a 14'6" throw to 110" screen. (Projector Central calculated 1100 lumens, which would be giving up about 30% of the light output. Chad figured it was more like 50% light lost.) But thats more of a "brain problem" than an "eyes problem."
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to re-emphasize how settings really do depend on your specific setup, room conditions, etc, and even vary unit to unit.
> 
> 
> 
> I had been testing the Projector Reviews HDR and HDR Bright settings as well as the settings @Alaric has shared. Both of which I was pretty happy with. But take a look at the differences when they were measured before and after. Pretty significant differences.
> 
> 
> 
> Not saying @Alaric's settings were bad. They were right for his room. But I completely understand the reluctance to share settings now. Or at least the futility of it. Truth be told, I'm more of a "you can try it, but its not gonna work guy."




What did your contrast measure. So it basically was exactly how mine turned out. After my initial disappointments with no HDR filter I’ve never once touched that slider as Chads calibration settled on 6.

HDR is very vibrant and never dim anymore.


----------



## dr bill

ckronengold said:


> Had my 5050 calibrated yesterday by HDTVbyChad. Very reasonably priced and was at my house from 10am to 4:30pm. Granted the first hour was spent remounting my projector, but thats a different story.
> 
> Super psyched with how things turned out. Walked away with an SDR, SDR Bright, and HDR setting, all using Natural mode. I was a little bummed to discover that I couldn't use the Digital Cinema mode (and get the full P3 spectrum) without killing the HDR highlights. I was pretty sure I had more than enough light at a 14'6" throw to 110" screen. (Projector Central calculated 1100 lumens, which would be giving up about 30% of the light output. Chad figured it was more like 50% light lost.) But thats more of a "brain problem" than an "eyes problem."
> 
> Just wanted to re-emphasize how settings really do depend on your specific setup, room conditions, etc, and even vary unit to unit.
> 
> I had been testing the Projector Reviews HDR and HDR Bright settings as well as the settings @Alaric has shared. Both of which I was pretty happy with. But take a look at the differences when they were measured before and after. Pretty significant differences.
> 
> Not saying @Alaric's settings were bad. They were right for his room. But I completely understand the reluctance to share settings now. Or at least the futility of it. Truth be told, I'm more of a "you can try it, but its not gonna work guy."



How many hours on your 5050 prior to getting it calibrated?


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Had my 5050 calibrated yesterday by HDTVbyChad. Very reasonably priced and was at my house from 10am to 4:30pm. Granted the first hour was spent remounting my projector, but thats a different story.
> 
> 
> 
> Super psyched with how things turned out. Walked away with an SDR, SDR Bright, and HDR setting, all using Natural mode. I was a little bummed to discover that I couldn't use the Digital Cinema mode (and get the full P3 spectrum) without killing the HDR highlights. I was pretty sure I had more than enough light at a 14'6" throw to 110" screen. (Projector Central calculated 1100 lumens, which would be giving up about 30% of the light output. Chad figured it was more like 50% light lost.) But thats more of a "brain problem" than an "eyes problem."
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to re-emphasize how settings really do depend on your specific setup, room conditions, etc, and even vary unit to unit.
> 
> 
> 
> I had been testing the Projector Reviews HDR and HDR Bright settings as well as the settings @Alaric has shared. Both of which I was pretty happy with. But take a look at the differences when they were measured before and after. Pretty significant differences.
> 
> 
> 
> Not saying @Alaric's settings were bad. They were right for his room. But I completely understand the reluctance to share settings now. Or at least the futility of it. Truth be told, I'm more of a "you can try it, but its not gonna work guy."


Thank you for sharing I really do appreciate it who I am. where are you located if you don't mind me asking. now you made me think I want to see if I can get Chad to come in this week if he is still in the area I'm in Lancaster Pennsylvania

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Had my 5050 calibrated yesterday by HDTVbyChad. Very reasonably priced and was at my house from 10am to 4:30pm. Granted the first hour was spent remounting my projector, but thats a different story.
> 
> 
> 
> Super psyched with how things turned out. Walked away with an SDR, SDR Bright, and HDR setting, all using Natural mode. I was a little bummed to discover that I couldn't use the Digital Cinema mode (and get the full P3 spectrum) without killing the HDR highlights. I was pretty sure I had more than enough light at a 14'6" throw to 110" screen. (Projector Central calculated 1100 lumens, which would be giving up about 30% of the light output. Chad figured it was more like 50% light lost.) But thats more of a "brain problem" than an "eyes problem."
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to re-emphasize how settings really do depend on your specific setup, room conditions, etc, and even vary unit to unit.
> 
> 
> 
> I had been testing the Projector Reviews HDR and HDR Bright settings as well as the settings @Alaric has shared. Both of which I was pretty happy with. But take a look at the differences when they were measured before and after. Pretty significant differences.
> 
> 
> 
> Not saying @Alaric's settings were bad. They were right for his room. But I completely understand the reluctance to share settings now. Or at least the futility of it. Truth be told, I'm more of a "you can try it, but its not gonna work guy."


What lamp setting did he use for HDR and SDR?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you for sharing I really do appreciate it who I am. where are you located if you don't mind me asking. now you made me think I want to see if I can get Chad to come in this week if he is still in the area I'm in Lancaster Pennsylvania
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


You owe it to yourself to get it done.


----------



## ckronengold

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you for sharing I really do appreciate it who I am. where are you located if you don't mind me asking. now you made me think I want to see if I can get Chad to come in this week if he is still in the area I'm in Lancaster Pennsylvania
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'm in NJ and I think he was headed to PA..

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

skylarlove1999 said:


> What lamp setting did he use for HDR and SDR?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Natural for all 3 settings.


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



ckronengold said:


> Natural for all 3 settings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk




Lamp in high, middle or low was what he was asking. High for HDR and middle/ low for SDR is my guess because Chad calibrated my set as well.


----------



## plain fan

ckronengold,

Your screen size (16:9 at 96"x54"=110"?) and throw distance is right where I think I would have my setup. From the first picture, it looks like you have a fairly well light controlled environment or is the image just deceiving?

Also, what is picture 5?


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> I'm in NJ and I think he was headed to PA..
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Thanks for the PM . Really appreciate it. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

plain fan said:


> ckronengold,
> 
> 
> 
> Your screen size (16:9 at 96"x54"=110"?) and throw distance is right where I think I would have my setup. From the first picture, it looks like you have a fairly well light controlled environment or is the image just deceiving?
> 
> 
> 
> Also, what is picture 5?


The last pic is the color gamut Delta from pre and post conversion. 

And no, not deceiving. I am near 100% light control. It's a basement with the windows plugged with black foam inserts that I cut. The only light during the day comes from down a hall 10 ft away that has a slatted door. I taped over the computer power light and the temp readout on my wine fridge, which are in an alcove behind the seating area. But in pitch black, they are noticeable. 



Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## tsharp

ckronengold said:


> I was a little bummed to discover that I couldn't use the Digital Cinema mode (and get the full P3 spectrum) without killing the HDR highlights. I was pretty sure I had more than enough light at a 14'6" throw to 110" screen. (Projector Central calculated 1100 lumens, which would be giving up about 30% of the light output. Chad figured it was more like 50% light lost.) But thats more of a "brain problem" than an "eyes"



Can you explain this a bit more for someone new to the game? 

You won't be able to use Digital Cinema mode because it will have issues with HDR highlights? What will you use as a compromise? My throw is 16' and screen size 133" so now I'm a bit concerned.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

tsharp said:


> Can you explain this a bit more for someone new to the game?
> 
> You won't be able to use Digital Cinema mode because it will have issues with HDR highlights? What will you use as a compromise? My throw is 16' and screen size 133" so now I'm a bit concerned.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I have reviewed this previously in this very thread as I had my protector calibrated by Chad a month ago. Use the search feature to find the posts.


----------



## skylarlove1999

tsharp said:


> Can you explain this a bit more for someone new to the game?
> 
> You won't be able to use Digital Cinema mode because it will have issues with HDR highlights? What will you use as a compromise? My throw is 16' and screen size 133" so now I'm a bit concerned.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


To achieve 100% of DCP3 color gamut the Epson 5050 uses a filter employed when you use the Digital Cinema mode. This reduces the lumens by anywhere from 30 to 50% . This is why most people run the projector in Natural mode which doesn't employ the color filter. A professional calibrator can still achieve 85 to 90% of the DCP3 color gamut using natural mode and giving you plenty of lumens for really spectacular HDR. Without a professional calibration you will still probably hit about 75 to 80% of the DCP3 in Natural mode. I wouldn't be too concerned or worried. Honestly many people would be hard pressed to tell the difference in the color spectrum in a side by side comparison unless they were told what to look for while looking at the two images. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

CallingMrBenzo said:


> What did your contrast measure.
> HDR is very vibrant and never dim anymore.


Dunno. I'll email him and find out if he has it.


----------



## ckronengold

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Lamp in high, middle or low was what he was asking. High for HDR and middle/ low for SDR is my guess because Chad calibrated my set as well.


My bad. 

HDR and SDR "Bright" are both High
SDR is Medium.


----------



## ckronengold

dr bill said:


> How many hours on your 5050 prior to getting it calibrated?


I was in the low to mid 90s. I was running it without even watching just to put a few hours on it a night. My room has seen Braveheart and Interstellar and The Dark Night a few times in the last week. 

Projector was on for about 2 hours before we started, and we started measuring at 11am and wrapped at 4pm. 

We finished, watched a bunch of demo material (Greatest Showman, Aquaman) and then I watched The Last Jedi last night, and its at 110 hours.


----------



## rustypep

ckronengold said:


> Had my 5050 calibrated yesterday by HDTVbyChad. Very reasonably priced and was at my house from 10am to 4:30pm. Granted the first hour was spent remounting my projector, but thats a different story.
> 
> Super psyched with how things turned out. Walked away with an SDR, SDR Bright, and HDR setting, all using Natural mode. I was a little bummed to discover that I couldn't use the Digital Cinema mode (and get the full P3 spectrum) without killing the HDR highlights. I was pretty sure I had more than enough light at a 14'6" throw to 110" screen. (Projector Central calculated 1100 lumens, which would be giving up about 30% of the light output. Chad figured it was more like 50% light lost.) But thats more of a "brain problem" than an "eyes problem."
> 
> Just wanted to re-emphasize how settings really do depend on your specific setup, room conditions, etc, and even vary unit to unit.
> 
> I had been testing the Projector Reviews HDR and HDR Bright settings as well as the settings @Alaric has shared. Both of which I was pretty happy with. But take a look at the differences when they were measured before and after. Pretty significant differences.
> 
> Not saying @Alaric's settings were bad. They were right for his room. But I completely understand the reluctance to share settings now. Or at least the futility of it. Truth be told, I'm more of a "you can try it, but its not gonna work guy."


Thanks for sharing. I got my 6050 three weeks ago. This is my first projector. I am using stock settings and it is impressive and I know it can be better once it is calibrated. Chad is only 1.25 hours away so I will be giving him a ring once my room is fully built. I just ordered my Denon 8500 today so looking forward to building a great experience. All of my family and friends are impressed by the image quality on a 150” scope spandex screen. We watch TV and game with the lights on a lot and even that has exceeded my expectations. Eager to get it done so we can get it looking even better.


----------



## ckronengold

rustypep said:


> Thanks for sharing. I got my 6050 three weeks ago. This is my first projector. I am using stock settings and it is impressive and I know it can be better once it is calibrated. Chad is only 1.25 hours away so I will be giving him a ring once my room is fully built. I just ordered my Denon 8500 today so looking forward to building a great experience. All of my family and friends are impressed by the image quality on a 150” scope spandex screen. We watch TV and game with the lights on a lot and even that has exceeded my expectations. Eager to get it done so we can get it looking even better.


It really is pretty damn good out of the box. I was plenty happy using out of the box Cinema and Bright Cinema. Could have been a happy camper if I (or anyone else in this forum) could leave well-enough alone. But we're tweakers and perfection seekers. 

I could easily see people buying it as their first "good" projector and just setting-and-forgetting it with the factory settings. Nothing wrong with doing that, either. 

Are there improvements? Sure there are. Its definitely better. Look at the RGB chart I shared. Of course its better after it was calibrated. No question about it. 

When you sit with Chad (or any calibrator) and he picks a scene that is perfect for showing the difference of 1 number in 1 setting, you can absolutely see the difference. But they are very subtle and you need to pause your content and A/B the setting to see it. When he points it out, can you see the greenish tint in a skin tone change? Yes. Would I ever have noticed it without him showing me? Hell no. 

Now if you'll all excuse me, I'm gonna go watch a movie!


----------



## Luminated67

ckronengold said:


> It really is pretty damn good out of the box. I was plenty happy using out of the box Cinema and Bright Cinema. Could have been a happy camper if I (or anyone else in this forum) could leave well-enough alone. But we're tweakers and perfection seekers.


Bingo, it’s that constant pursuit of perfection that starts off very small but steadily builds to the point everything has to be tweaked and that includes the room itself. LOL



ckronengold said:


> I could easily see people buying it as their first "good" projector and just setting-and-forgetting it with the factory settings. Nothing wrong with doing that, either.


At the start all I tweaked was the brightness and contrast and to be honest it looked mint as it but then the enthusiast in me took over, refer to above. LOL



ckronengold said:


> Are there improvements? Sure there are. Its definitely better. Look at the RGB chart I shared. Of course its better after it was calibrated. No question about it.


The problem with any calibration is if you tweak too much, like change your room colour or replace your screen with something different in gain or size then these settings will also need adjusting.



ckronengold said:


> When you sit with Chad (or any calibrator) and he picks a scene that is perfect for showing the difference of 1 number in 1 setting, you can absolutely see the difference. But they are very subtle and you need to pause your content and A/B the setting to see it. When he points it out, can you see the greenish tint in a skin tone change? Yes. Would I ever have noticed it without him showing me? Hell no.
> 
> Now if you'll all excuse me, I'm gonna go watch a movie!


Funny that’s the first thing my calibrator asked, “What lamp mode do I normally use for SDR and HDR” and then he calibrated the settings accordingly.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> To achieve 100% of DCP3 color gamut the Epson 5050 uses a filter employed when you use the Digital Cinema mode. This reduces the lumens by anywhere from 30 to 50% . This is why most people run the projector in Natural mode which doesn't employ the color filter. A professional calibrator can still achieve 85 to 90% of the DCP3 color gamut using natural mode and giving you plenty of lumens for really spectacular HDR. Without a professional calibration you will still probably hit about 75 to 80% of the DCP3 in Natural mode. I wouldn't be too concerned or worried. Honestly many people would be hard pressed to tell the difference in the color spectrum in a side by side comparison unless they were told what to look for while looking at the two images.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The best P3 coverage I have seen with the Epson with no filter is 85.4% to get into the 90% range you have to go with Sony or JVC. Its still fantastic, and most likely better than a flat panel you may own if its several years old.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> The best P3 coverage I have seen with the Epson with no filter is 85.4% to get into the 90% range you have to go with Sony or JVC. Its still fantastic, and most likely better than a flat panel you may own if its several years old.


Thank you for letting me know I had seen some calibrators claiming they could get up to 90% without the filter. I wholeheartedly agree that the image the Epson throws is amazing and give some spectacular HDR and really dark blacks.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## lganz316

Any feedback on the 3D performance on these projectors?

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

lganz316 said:


> Any feedback on the 3D performance on these projectors?
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


 @Alaric has watched quite a bit of 3D on his and is that happen with its performance that he’s increased his 3D collection to take advantage of it.


----------



## mon2479

I have finally decided to go with the epson 5050 instead of the benq ht5550 for my new home theater room in the basement. I just have some questions though:
1. I was planning on painting the whole room a flat black with no windows, is that a good color choice?
2. I am thinking of getting a silver ticket screen 125" wide screen in white. Is that a good color screen choice for a completely dark room or should I get a grey screen to get even better blacks? 

Thanks

Thanks


----------



## asolor78

@Alaric, been enjoying ur cali. Settings... But i have now ventured into rewatching some 3D content... Any chance u could share your view on calibrations ... Or is it as easy to just plug your SDR version? Anyone have suggestions?... 
Because of TOP Gun MAVERick trailer... Popped that 3d O. G. Version and wow.. from a 5010 to this the 3d is amazing.. also having option to use frame interpolation while in 3d adds a lot of immersion...


----------



## mach250

Ended up ordering the 5050ub when they went back on sale over the weekend. Was looking at the 6050 but I already have a mount attached to a wood beam in the ceiling and can get a bulb when needed so I couldn't justify paying another $700 for the warranty. After my Epson 8350 decided to quit I dismantled it to show my children how it worked which was a decent way to sent it off in the trash afterwards in pieces. The room it's going in to is 100% light controlled with a 150" screen at about 15 or 16 feet viewing distance so I'm looking forward to the "4K" resolution. 



I have a screen calibrator that is able to calibrate projectors, what do you use to decide on lumens and color balance? My rooms walls are a deep red wine color with a black ceiling (still need to replace the carpet so it's the standard tan).


----------



## Cenicero

*motion blur/judder normal?*

Hello. I've got a new 5050UB, and I'm having trouble getting used to the way it handles fast motion. I've only seen a few people mention it in this and the 5040 thread, so I'm still not sure if what I'm seeing is normal.

Fast action scenes and fast camera panning seem blurry, jittery, (juddery?) to the point I find it extremely distracting and hard to watch. 

I've attached a picture taken while panning the camera in a PS4 Pro game. Is it normal for the projector to 'overlap' frames, such that one frame is fading in while the previous is fading out? I think this is what's causing motion to look bad. 

I showed this picture to front-line Epson support and they immediately sent me a brand new replacement with the exact same issue, so now I'm starting to think this is normal operation. The weird thing is that I'm upgrading from an 8-year-old Epson 8350 which had nowhere near the resolution and contrast, but handled motion just fine. Pardon my ignorance, but is this a consequence of pixel shifting?

A few more observations:
-I tried 5 different HDMI cables, as well as plugging the PS4 directly into the projector.
-I tried turning off all image enhancement and fiddling with every option I could find 
-It's worse with lower frame rate games and movies. Streaming games from my computer at 60fps looks much better, but I can still tell the blurring, double-image effect is there.
-Frame interpolation also looks much better, but unfortunately this isn't an option for 4k content

I'd love to have any other observations to compare so I know whether to call Epson again. Thanks!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Cenicero said:


> Hello. I've got a new 5050UB, and I'm having trouble getting used to the way it handles fast motion. I've only seen a few people mention it in this and the 5040 thread, so I'm still not sure if what I'm seeing is normal.
> 
> 
> 
> Fast action scenes and fast camera panning seem blurry, jittery, (juddery?) to the point I find it extremely distracting and hard to watch.
> 
> 
> 
> I've attached a picture taken while panning the camera in a PS4 Pro game. Is it normal for the projector to 'overlap' frames, such that one frame is fading in while the previous is fading out? I think this is what's causing motion to look bad.
> 
> 
> 
> I showed this picture to front-line Epson support and they immediately sent me a brand new replacement with the exact same issue, so now I'm starting to think this is normal operation. The weird thing is that I'm upgrading from an 8-year-old Epson 8350 which had nowhere near the resolution and contrast, but handled motion just fine. Pardon my ignorance, but is this a consequence of pixel shifting?
> 
> 
> 
> A few more observations:
> 
> -I tried 5 different HDMI cables, as well as plugging the PS4 directly into the projector.
> 
> -I tried turning off all image enhancement and fiddling with every option I could find
> 
> -It's worse with lower frame rate games and movies. Streaming games from my computer at 60fps looks much better, but I can still tell the blurring, double-image effect is there.
> 
> -Frame interpolation also looks much better, but unfortunately this isn't an option for 4k content
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to have any other observations to compare so I know whether to call Epson again. Thanks!


My only complaint about the projector is that there are definitely times when motion seems a little blurry not very often but definitely panning scenes in certain movies display a good degree of judder. I do not know the technical explanation but I would imagine it does have something to do with the way that they achieve 4K by quickly passing 2 images together to get the greater lines of resolution higher pixel count.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

mon2479 said:


> I have finally decided to go with the epson 5050 instead of the benq ht5550 for my new home theater room in the basement. I just have some questions though:
> 1. I was planning on painting the whole room a flat black with no windows, is that a good color choice?
> 2. I am thinking of getting a silver ticket screen 125" wide screen in white. Is that a good color screen choice for a completely dark room or should I get a grey screen to get even better blacks?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Thanks


I'm not sure about those screens, but I can comment on color. When I was looking to paint my movie room, I did a lot of research, and a color called Peppercorn came up a lot. I ended up going with that color, in the flat finish. I painted all the walls, and the ceiling. The color is perfect for a movie room, and I get tons of compliments. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

mon2479 said:


> I have finally decided to go with the epson 5050 instead of the benq ht5550 for my new home theater room in the basement. I just have some questions though:
> 1. I was planning on painting the whole room a flat black with no windows, is that a good color choice?
> 2. I am thinking of getting a silver ticket screen 125" wide screen in white. Is that a good color screen choice for a completely dark room or should I get a grey screen to get even better blacks?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Thanks


I'd suggest lighter coloured walls and put some curtain rods along each of the 3 walls, and use black curtains instead of black paint. That way the room can be brightened up for alternate uses, when you choose to, and dimmed right down when you want.

My only suggestion on the screen is to make it as big as possible. I'd suggest just painting the wall at first to see if that works for you. There are a number of available commercial screen paints and free suggested paint mixes. A light grey might be the place to start.


----------



## mach250

Cenicero said:


> Hello. I've got a new 5050UB, and I'm having trouble getting used to the way it handles fast motion. I've only seen a few people mention it in this and the 5040 thread, so I'm still not sure if what I'm seeing is normal.
> 
> Fast action scenes and fast camera panning seem blurry, jittery, (juddery?) to the point I find it extremely distracting and hard to watch.
> 
> I've attached a picture taken while panning the camera in a PS4 Pro game. Is it normal for the projector to 'overlap' frames, such that one frame is fading in while the previous is fading out? I think this is what's causing motion to look bad.
> 
> I showed this picture to front-line Epson support and they immediately sent me a brand new replacement with the exact same issue, so now I'm starting to think this is normal operation. The weird thing is that I'm upgrading from an 8-year-old Epson 8350 which had nowhere near the resolution and contrast, but handled motion just fine. Pardon my ignorance, but is this a consequence of pixel shifting?
> 
> A few more observations:
> -I tried 5 different HDMI cables, as well as plugging the PS4 directly into the projector.
> -I tried turning off all image enhancement and fiddling with every option I could find
> -It's worse with lower frame rate games and movies. Streaming games from my computer at 60fps looks much better, but I can still tell the blurring, double-image effect is there.
> -Frame interpolation also looks much better, but unfortunately this isn't an option for 4k content
> 
> I'd love to have any other observations to compare so I know whether to call Epson again. Thanks!





This worries me as I'm getting my 5050 today after my 8350 died...the projector is basically my HTPC's monitor for movies, games, and general PC usage.


----------



## biglen

mach250 said:


> This worries me as I'm getting my 5050 today after my 8350 died...the projector is basically my HTPC's monitor for movies, games, and general PC usage.


I'm thinking about getting the 5050 also, and that is concerning since I game and watch sports. Can you please report back and let us know if you have that issue?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## mach250

biglen said:


> I'm thinking about getting the 5050 also, and that is concerning since I game and watch sports. Can you please report back and let us know if you have that issue?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk



Yeah, won't be for another 8-9 hours...should have taken the day off hehe. Thinking it has to have something to do with the simulated 4k with with dual projection system.


----------



## Krbass

biglen said:


> I'm thinking about getting the 5050 also, and that is concerning since I game and watch sports. Can you please report back and let us know if you have that issue?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I played a bunch of borderlands 2(PC) and black ops 3(xbox one X) on my buddies 5050 and it was fantastic. His screen is 148". The only issue I had was just getting used to the entire wall moving but after a few minutes I was transported into the game. 

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## Cenicero

mach250 said:


> Yeah, won't be for another 8-9 hours...should have taken the day off hehe. Thinking it has to have something to do with the simulated 4k with with dual projection system.


For what it's worth, PC games have high enough frame rate that it doesn't bother me, so if you are mostly PC gaming I think you'll be good.

I think what causes it to get irritating for me is when there are large "jumps" between frames. Red Dead Redemption is kind of a worst-case scenario. I read somewhere it's locked to 30fps. Couple that with fast camera movements for aiming or looking around, and the overlapping frame effect really pops out for me. (Movie scenes with fast camera movement bother me too; that's another case where there would be a big distance between frames.)

It's also possible I'm unusually sensitive, given most people don't seem extremely bothered by it. I'm still holding out a little hope it's a fixable issue with my setup... the picture is so nice! I'm eager to hear what you think. Good luck!


----------



## sirius_basterd

*living room*

Hi, will this projector work in a living room with moderate light control? It's hard to get recommendations for this situation since of course at night time there is no ambient light, and I know it'll do great in that setting. But what about daytime? I have decent blinds but there is an open wall that leads to another room with light pouring in.


Also: is it hard to calibrate and store daytime and nighttime settings?


----------



## skylarlove1999

mach250 said:


> So I set it up and learned that the HDMI cable I have isn't 4k/60 capable even though it says it is. I get pink or green dots all over the screen if I set it to 50hz or higher. So now I need to contact Epson to send me out a new remote and find a cable about 15 feet long.


https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-HDMI-C...lja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

sirius_basterd said:


> Hi, will this projector work in a living room with moderate light control? It's hard to get recommendations for this situation since of course at night time there is no ambient light, and I know it'll do great in that setting. But what about daytime? I have decent blinds but there is an open wall that leads to another room with light pouring in.
> 
> 
> Also: is it hard to calibrate and store daytime and nighttime settings?


I would suggest either a gray screen it has ambient light rejecting properties or doing something about that window where you have light streaming in the other room. I mean the picture will still look good with light streaming in but it will not be as dynamic and the contrast will suffer with too much light coming in. You're spending that much money on a projector I would take care of your ambient light issues either by way of the screen we're by way of some blackout curtains or something

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Zoltrix

mach250 said:


> This worries me as I'm getting my 5050 today after my 8350 died...the projector is basically my HTPC's monitor for movies, games, and general PC usage.


Bit of a worry that this is impacting all users. Are Epson going to fix via a firmware update?


----------



## biglen

mach250 said:


> So I set it up and learned that the HDMI cable I have isn't 4k/60 capable even though it says it is. I get pink or green dots all over the screen if I set it to 50hz or higher. So now I need to contact Epson to send me out a new remote and find a cable about 15 feet long.


Why do you need a new remote ?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Why do you need a new remote ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


If I remember correctly reading a couple posts back I think this person was sent a new unit and probably mistakenly sent the remote back with their old unit. Most manufacturers including Epson routinely do not include a remote even if they send you a new unit and they definitely do not include a remote when they send you a refurbished unit but the customer service personnel managing the phone support doesn't explain that you should only send back the projector but you should keep the power cord and the remote. I have too much first-hand experience with Epson when I sent back a 5040 and I sent back the power cord and the remote and the new projector arrives without either one of them. I'm just speculating but that's why I'm thinking he needs a remote is because he doesn't have one right now because I'm wasn't included with the replacement projector and he mailed back the remote.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## --Sclaws

Zoltrix said:


> Bit of a worry that this is impacting all users. Are Epson going to fix via a firmware update?


Sensitivity to motion isn't something that can be patched...kinda like RBE sensitivity (which I have). I've had a 5040 and now 5050 and the motion seems the same to me on both, and equally acceptable to me from both. Using FI may be a way to reduce its impact to those that see this as a distraction. FWIW the only time I use FI is for 3D.


----------



## drober30

biglen said:


> I'm not sure about those screens, but I can comment on color. When I was looking to paint my movie room, I did a lot of research, and a color called Peppercorn came up a lot. I ended up going with that color, in the flat finish. I painted all the walls, and the ceiling. The color is perfect for a movie room, and I get tons of compliments.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Do you have pictures posted of your movie room in peppercorn? I would really like to see what it looks like, I am having a tough time deciding what color to paint my basement/theater area and peppercorn is one of my choices.


----------



## biglen

drober30 said:


> Do you have pictures posted of your movie room in peppercorn? I would really like to see what it looks like, I am having a tough time deciding what color to paint my basement/theater area and peppercorn is one of my choices.


Here's a few. It's definitely darker in person. The camera seems to make them look a little lighter. The pic that has the big movie reel picture on the wall, is probably the closest to the real color. It looks super rich in person. You'll love it.









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## MidnightWatcher

drober30 said:


> Do you have pictures posted of your movie room in peppercorn? I would really like to see what it looks like, I am having a tough time deciding what color to paint my basement/theater area and peppercorn is one of my choices.


I used Peppercorn also, see link in sig for photos.


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Here's a few. It's definitely darker in person. The camera seems to make them look a little lighter. The pic that has the big movie reel picture on the wall, is probably the closest to the real color. It looks super rich in person. You'll love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Nice looking room, you can tell this is still a room for the family rather than a man cave like mine which is all about watch the movie functional but definitely not pretty. LOL

BTW this is the same colour mine was originally before I covered the walls and ceiling in black velour. When you make the switch to a projector the only suggestion I can give that I think really improves its contrast most of all is the cover your ceiling in black velvet/velour. Most cringe when you suggest a black ceiling but it actually looks rather well and you’ll love the movie benefits.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u1ayn2d5dtbqt1w/Photo 24-07-2019, 10 29 30.jpg?dl=0


----------



## Alaric

asolor78 said:


> @Alaric, been enjoying ur cali. Settings... But i have now ventured into rewatching some 3D content... Any chance u could share your view on calibrations ... Or is it as easy to just plug your SDR version? Anyone have suggestions?...
> Because of TOP Gun MAVERick trailer... Popped that 3d O. G. Version and wow.. from a 5010 to this the 3d is amazing.. also having option to use frame interpolation while in 3d adds a lot of immersion...


3D is somewhat tricky in terms of calibration as you really need to calibrate to the glasses as well and given the testing I did on the 3D glasses models i had, there are quite some variation there!

https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home

I'd recommend using a 3D Pixar disc as they have an optimizer on most of them, which is handy for tuning out cross talk which iirc the Dynamic mode gave the best results and useful for setting brightness and contrast.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Nice looking room, you can tell this is still a room for the family rather than a man cave like mine which is all about watch the movie functional but definitely not pretty. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> BTW this is the same colour mine was originally before I covered the walls and ceiling in black velour. When you make the switch to a projector the only suggestion I can give that I think really improves its contrast most of all is the cover your ceiling in black velvet/velour. Most cringe when you suggest a black ceiling but it actually looks rather well and you’ll love the movie benefits.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/u1ayn2d5dtbqt1w/Photo 24-07-2019, 10 29 30.jpg?dl=0


My ceilings are really dark with the Peppercorn color, so you'd still suggest the black velvet or velour?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Krbass

biglen said:


> My ceilings are really dark with the Peppercorn color, so you'd still suggest the black velvet or velour?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Many years ago I had my BenQ W6000 in a room with black ceilings and deep blue walls and a charcoal gray carpet, I thought it was perfect. I decided to buy Velvet for the walls and ceiling and had them come out about 5' into the room off the screen wall. It was an amazing change to the picture and the image looked like it was floating. 

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Krbass said:


> Many years ago I had my BenQ W6000 in a room with black ceilings and deep blue walls and a charcoal gray carpet, I thought it was perfect. I decided to buy Velvet for the walls and ceiling and had them come out about 5' into the room off the screen wall. It was an amazing change to the picture and the image looked like it was floating.
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


I have to agree I had dark walls and ceiling before and then I went velvet for the first 14ft back to my first listening position essentially on the ceiling and the side walls. The contrast and the depth change so much due to the Velvet killing all reflections it was like getting a new projector

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Krbass said:


> Many years ago I had my BenQ W6000 in a room with black ceilings and deep blue walls and a charcoal gray carpet, I thought it was perfect. I decided to buy Velvet for the walls and ceiling and had them come out about 5' into the room off the screen wall. It was an amazing change to the picture and the image looked like it was floating.
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


I don't really have room on the walls, around the screen. The orange tape is what a 125" screen would look like.









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

mon2479 said:


> I have finally decided to go with the epson 5050 instead of the benq ht5550 for my new home theater room in the basement. I just have some questions though:
> 1. I was planning on painting the whole room a flat black with no windows, is that a good color choice?


I'd actually avoid black paint. It's messy, time consuming, needs multiple coats and a sod to cover over if you need to later. Add to that it doesn't even perform particularly well and it's a bit of a throw back to earlier days of Home Cinema!!!

Go for black velvet/velour fabric - Much better light absorbency than ANY paint and gives a little sound quality boost. You can get pretty cheap rolls of fabric and staple gun the top and mostly let it drape for a cheap and cheerful approach or go to town. It really makes an incredible difference, particularly the screen wall and back to where you view!

I won't go near paint ever again for cinema stuff!


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I don't really have room on the walls, around the screen. The orange tape is what a 125" screen would look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I don't have any velvet on my actual screen wall but you wouldn't be able to tell I mean if you actually are aligning your projector with your screen you shouldn't have much overshoot at all so having velvet on the actual screen wall in my opinion is highly overrated it is where the light is reflecting such as the ceiling and the side walls and the floor to a lesser degree where you really get the benefit by reducing the light Reflections back onto your screen from those surfaces

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Alaric said:


> I'd actually avoid black paint. It's messy, time consuming, needs multiple coats and a sod to cover over if you need to later. Add to that it doesn't even perform particularly well and it's a bit of a throw back to earlier days of Home Cinema!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Go for black velvet/velour fabric - Much better light absorbency than ANY paint and gives a little sound quality boost. You can get pretty cheap rolls of fabric and staple gun the top and mostly let it drape for a cheap and cheerful approach or go to town. It really makes an incredible difference, particularly the screen wall and back to where you view!
> 
> 
> 
> I won't go near paint ever again for cinema stuff!


+1

If you are not able to go with the Velvet I would go with a flat darker color paint that is pleasing to the eye really any dark flat matte paint is going to be the same reflective value as black. The real benefits start with putting velvet on the walls and ceiling rather than a darker or black paint. Going black doesn't really give you any added benefit over a darker color it just makes it harder to paint over in the future when you go to sell your home.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I don't really have room on the walls, around the screen. The orange tape is what a 125" screen would look like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Here is a picture as I mentioned before my side walls and ceiling are covered in velvet but the floor is a dark blue carpet and the actual screen wall is painted in a mat flat dark blue and honestly you can't even see that there is a wall there it kind of just floats.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## mon2479

The room I'm doing will by a dedicated theater room so I really don't plan on changing colors ever again, but the peppercorn color looks really nice. I will probably go with that color instead. Is that peppercorn color a Sherwin Williams? What about the trim and my set of double doors? I would hate to leave them white and have them be too reflective. What would be a good dark contrast color? I will have black sconses on the walls as my light source.

Thanks again


----------



## skylarlove1999

mon2479 said:


> The room I'm doing will by a dedicated theater room so I really don't plan on changing colors ever again, but the peppercorn color looks really nice. I will probably go with that color instead. Is that peppercorn color a Sherwin Williams? What about the trim and my set of double doors? I would hate to leave them white and have them be too reflective. What would be a good dark contrast color? I will have black sconses on the walls as my light source.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again


It looks like you are going with a 2:35 to 1 screen so I don't think you'll get much light reflection off of your white trim at the bottom either on the screen wall or the side walls. I would put a curtain rod above your double doors with two velvet curtains that you can just pull together after you close the doors behind you. Glass obviously is very reflective for both light and sound. As well as the white paint on your doors.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

mon2479 said:


> The room I'm doing will by a dedicated theater room so I really don't plan on changing colors ever again, but the peppercorn color looks really nice. I will probably go with that color instead. Is that peppercorn color a Sherwin Williams? What about the trim and my set of double doors? I would hate to leave them white and have them be too reflective. What would be a good dark contrast color? I will have black sconses on the walls as my light source.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again


Just make sure when you are measuring for your screen you are using the dimensions the screen manufacturer gave you especially if you are going to have a bezel around the screen it increases the dimensions by 1 and 1/2 to 3 inch all the way around

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

biglen said:


> My ceilings are really dark with the Peppercorn color, so you'd still suggest the black velvet or velour?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


The reason I suggested doing the ceiling in black velour/velvet is that it's probably the one which makes the most noticeable difference but of course with each bit you do you will see a noticeable improvement is black levels and contrast. Your's is a proper family room which would require agreement from the wife/partner and to be honest your room looks lovely, it's really the first 6ft on wall/ceiling that makes the most benefit but who here want to only do that much of their walls were as doing the ceiling not only benefits the projector image but makes a feature of the room.

Number one thing I would do in your room is the screen wall in velvet/velour and the ceiling, the benefit is huge.


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## drober30

biglen said:


> Here's a few. It's definitely darker in person. The camera seems to make them look a little lighter. The pic that has the big movie reel picture on the wall, is probably the closest to the real color. It looks super rich in person. You'll love it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Looks great! Sherwin Williams Peppercorn is a great color and your room looks fantastic! I'm still considering something in the darker grey or black shade. I'll post pictures in the media room build thread when I'm done.


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## biglen

drober30 said:


> Looks great! Sherwin Williams Peppercorn is a great color and your room looks fantastic! I'm still considering something in the darker grey or black shade. I'll post pictures in the media room build thread when I'm done.


Thanks! I'm super happy the way it turned out. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

@biglen here’s what I did to my room.

First the screen wall 
Before








After









Then I progressed along the sides and the ceiling, first about 6ft back but eventually to 10ft back.









This comparison is probably the best for showing how light absorbent black velour is.
















Notice how the shelf has completely disappeared.


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## FendersRule

For everyone asking about how 3D is with the 5050UB, I can finally give some feedback. Very subjective feedback, too.

Rooms style: Completely dark dedicated Theater room. 11 x 17 feet.
Glasses: Samsung 5150 active
Screen size: 106". Seating distance is about 9' or so. 

This is my first time doing "real" 3D at home. I watched some scenes in Tron Legacy and watched some scenes in Coraline. Not only is Coraline a better movie, but the 3D I felt was better all-around. 

The Epson 5050 automatically goes into a 3D color mode when it detects a 3D signal. I found whatever it switched to (I think "Dynamic 3D") I found pretty bright and good. I think "Cinema 3D" was the other color mode, which creates a slightly dimmer image. The only thing I did in the menus was to change my screen size to 110" instead of 100" (I have a 106" screen, so I felt that 110" is closer to what I actually have). Frame interpolation automatically gets thrown on...and I'm not too sure how I feel about it...I think in 3D it works but for 2D images I absolutely hate it. I'll leave it on for now in 3D.

I get absolutely zero crosstalk. No ghosting. Things looked very good as far as the colors and the depth is concerned.

What I did notice that I wasn't expecting was a slight strain on my eyes. I tended to remember watching 3D movies in theaters to have zero strain--but it was many years ago since, so maybe it's normal to have some slight strain? I'm not sure where the strain is coming from--maybe by the shutter action of the Samsung 5150 glasses, or maybe simply because I'm always trying to focus on things that are further away (but not really further away) so may eyes are having to do "work".

I have some official Epson glasses on the way, so I'm curious to see how those perform.

I wouldn't call the strain "bad", but it almost felt as it does watching old-school 3D (magenta and blue filter), but with really nice and beautiful colors and way more consistent timing.

Take it for what it's worth! No ghosting, but I'm a little curious as to why my eyes didn't feel "relaxed".


----------



## --Sclaws

FendersRule said:


> What I did notice that I wasn't expecting was a slight strain on my eyes. I tended to remember watching 3D movies in theaters to have zero strain--but it was many years ago since, so maybe it's normal to have some slight strain? I'm not sure where the strain is coming from--maybe by the shutter action of the Samsung 5150 glasses, or maybe simply because I'm always trying to focus on things that are further away (but not really further away) so may eyes are having to do "work".
> 
> .


I love the 3D image from this projector, but I think its the active glasses that really suck the life out of my brain...big headaches after 20min or so. Never had that issue with passive 3D at the theater or with my previous TV (Vizio). Unfortunately I rarely watch 3D on the projector because of it. Then again, maybe I'm just getting old...had to get rid of my PSVR for the same reason.


----------



## STL D

FendersRule said:


> For everyone asking about how 3D is with the 5050UB, I can finally give some feedback. Very subjective feedback, too.
> 
> Rooms style: Completely dark dedicated Theater room. 11 x 17 feet.
> Glasses: Samsung 5150 active
> Screen size: 106". Seating distance is about 9' or so.
> 
> This is my first time doing "real" 3D at home. I watched some scenes in Tron Legacy and watched some scenes in Coraline. Not only is Coraline a better movie, but the 3D I felt was better all-around.
> 
> The Epson 5050 automatically goes into a 3D color mode when it detects a 3D signal. I found whatever it switched to (I think "Dynamic 3D") I found pretty bright and good. I think "Cinema 3D" was the other color mode, which creates a slightly dimmer image. The only thing I did in the menus was to change my screen size to 110" instead of 100" (I have a 106" screen, so I felt that 110" is closer to what I actually have). Frame interpolation automatically gets thrown on...and I'm not too sure how I feel about it...I think in 3D it works but for 2D images I absolutely hate it. I'll leave it on for now in 3D.
> 
> I get absolutely zero crosstalk. No ghosting. Things looked very good as far as the colors and the depth is concerned.
> 
> What I did notice that I wasn't expecting was a slight strain on my eyes. I tended to remember watching 3D movies in theaters to have zero strain--but it was many years ago since, so maybe it's normal to have some slight strain? I'm not sure where the strain is coming from--maybe by the shutter action of the Samsung 5150 glasses, or maybe simply because I'm always trying to focus on things that are further away (but not really further away) so may eyes are having to do "work".
> 
> I have some official Epson glasses on the way, so I'm curious to see how those perform.
> 
> I wouldn't call the strain "bad", but it almost felt as it does watching old-school 3D (magenta and blue filter), but with really nice and beautiful colors and way more consistent timing.
> 
> Take it for what it's worth! No ghosting, but I'm a little curious as to why my eyes didn't feel "relaxed".


I've had active 3D for awhile (I had Nvidia's 3D vision back when it was announced) and one thing I can say is that Active 3D takes time to adjust to in comparison to passive. Once you get fully adjusted it's fine, but the first so many movies you watch that way will make your eyes feel tired. It's primarily caused by the flicker of the lenses as far as I know.

My advice is to "ease" your eyes into active. You can do so by changing the 3D settings and lower the 3D slider til your eyes are adjusted. It helps out dramatically.


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## ShadowBoy

STL D said:


> I've had active 3D for awhile (I had Nvidia's 3D vision back when it was announced) and one thing I can say is that Active 3D takes time to adjust to in comparison to passive. Once you get fully adjusted it's fine, but the first so many movies you watch that way will make your eyes feel tired. It's primarily caused by the flicker of the lenses as far as I know.
> 
> My advice is to "ease" your eyes into active. You can do so by changing the 3D settings and lower the 3D slider til your eyes are adjusted. It helps out dramatically.


How about you, Alaric? Have you noticed any eye strain when watching 3D on the Epson? I haven't tried any active glasses on home projectors yet, but have no problems on my LG tv with the passive glasses. The only cinema movie I watched with active glasses was Avatar and had no problems with it. I do wish that projector manufacturers would make passive projectors. I know it's possible as LG had one years ago. It's said that the active are better, but dimmer. Can't wait til James Cameron gives us glasses-less 3D.


----------



## Viche

biglen said:


> I'm thinking about getting the 5050 also, and that is concerning since I game and watch sports. Can you please report back and let us know if you have that issue?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk





drober30 said:


> Do you have pictures posted of your movie room in peppercorn? I would really like to see what it looks like, I am having a tough time deciding what color to paint my basement/theater area and peppercorn is one of my choices.


peppercorn by which paint company? A paint called peppercorn could look very different depending on who makes it.


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## biglen

Viche said:


> peppercorn by which paint company? A paint called peppercorn could look very different depending on who makes it.


This :

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/ho...-peppercorn#/7674/?s=coordinatingColors&p=PS0

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

Luminated67, that looks awesome !

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## biglen

Will the 3D glasses I have for my Sony XBR-65X850C work on the Epson?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## DocOrange88

mach250 said:


> Sorry, ignore that piece, I had edited out a mistake I made complaining about the remote not working. Theater room is basically pitch black at the moment and I had put the batteries in backwards...felt like I a moron when I noticed.
> 
> I still need to figure out what is going on with my video card causing the pink and green dots. I plugged in a laptop with the same resolution, refresh rate, and bit depth and the dots didn't appear so the cable is good. Weird thing is it doesn't happen when I plug my computer in to my 4k LG OLED downstairs in my living room.
> ****
> If you could would you upgrade to the 6050 for about $500 more (potentially a restocking fee of about $500 returning the 5050)?
> $250 for an extra bulb and then $250 for one more year of warranty, "hand-picked lens" and mount (when I already have a mount)?
> ****


It's largely pointless to upgrade to the 6050, frankly at the speed things are changing there is a good chance of swapping this unit around the 2 year mark and before needing another bulb. While the 6050 might hold is value better the 5050 likely can't lose more than about a grand over 2 years. So you might be able to upgrade, so cost value balance is key. The 5050 is just too good. I use about ~1000 hours of bulb life over 2 years from my experience so that means the included Bulb should easily out live its useful life span for us. Also while for some its not a benefit, I'm happy the projector is white.

Also to add, I've found those issues dots and problems with non fiber HDMI but I have nearly 30-40 foot run. As for the weird motion! I've got a sort of answer to that. If you mismatch the frame rate of the device playing to the media you will very much notice some weird interpolation and motion. Make sure that your source is progressive and matched up to the media it is playing. This judder will happen in all cases including even more with computers. I will often change the frame rate of the source to make sure it is a perfect match.


----------



## mon2479

After all this talk about painting our rooms black or peppercorn or using black velvet, I got thinking about the 5050 being white and was curious if anyone has turned their 5050 from white to black. I thought about getting some big fat sharpies and going to town, it might take a few applications of permanent marker, but it could work......right?


----------



## lganz316

Hi Friends,

Finally pulled the trigger on TW-9400W (6050UB with Wireless HDMI kit). I live in the UK and am looking for suitable and inexpensive 3D glasses. Please can someone advise on this.


----------



## Luminated67

lganz316 said:


> Hi Friends,
> 
> Finally pulled the trigger on TW-9400W (6050UB with Wireless HDMI kit). I live in the UK and am looking for suitable and inexpensive 3D glasses. Please can someone advise on this.


Speak with @Alaric he’s the guy to talk to on this subject.


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## Alaric

Luminated67 said:


> Speak with @Alaric he’s the guy to talk to on this subject.


https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home FAQ

I measured some of the glasses inc Epsons

Same Q on Avforums - Though i must admit i've answered it a few times here and there!

Depends on what you want from them. There are pluses and minuses from all the brands i tested, be it cost, colour, light output etc


----------



## Alaric

FendersRule said:


> This is my first time doing "real" 3D at home. I watched some scenes in Tron Legacy and watched some scenes in Coraline. Not only is Coraline a better movie, but the 3D I felt was better all-around.
> 
> The Epson 5050 automatically goes into a 3D color mode when it detects a 3D signal. I found whatever it switched to (I think "Dynamic 3D") I found pretty bright and good. I think "Cinema 3D" was the other color mode, which creates a slightly dimmer image. The only thing I did in the menus was to change my screen size to 110" instead of 100" (I have a 106" screen, so I felt that 110" is closer to what I actually have). Frame interpolation automatically gets thrown on...and I'm not too sure how I feel about it...I think in 3D it works but for 2D images I absolutely hate it. I'll leave it on for now in 3D.
> 
> I get absolutely zero crosstalk. No ghosting. Things looked very good as far as the colors and the depth is concerned.
> 
> What I did notice that I wasn't expecting was a slight strain on my eyes. I tended to remember watching 3D movies in theaters to have zero strain--but it was many years ago since, so maybe it's normal to have some slight strain? I'm not sure where the strain is coming from--maybe by the shutter action of the Samsung 5150 glasses, or maybe simply because I'm always trying to focus on things that are further away (but not really further away) so may eyes are having to do "work".
> 
> I have some official Epson glasses on the way, so I'm curious to see how those perform.
> 
> I wouldn't call the strain "bad", but it almost felt as it does watching old-school 3D (magenta and blue filter), but with really nice and beautiful colors and way more consistent timing.
> 
> Take it for what it's worth! No ghosting, but I'm a little curious as to why my eyes didn't feel "relaxed".


If you have a Pixar 3D disc. Most of them have an optimizer on them and it's a 3D enhanced version!!!

It's great for tweaking your settings to reduce cross talk, setting contrast and brightness and bit depth/size - If these are out then it is certainly possible to get cross talk and other irritations which may be periphery and could be causing strain etc.

There is also an adjustment period and some people are more prone, it also may be a hint that your eyesight could need checking


----------



## Alaric

ShadowBoy said:


> How about you, Alaric? Have you noticed any eye strain when watching 3D on the Epson? I haven't tried any active glasses on home projectors yet, but have no problems on my LG tv with the passive glasses. The only cinema movie I watched with active glasses was Avatar and had no problems with it. I do wish that projector manufacturers would make passive projectors. I know it's possible as LG had one years ago. It's said that the active are better, but dimmer. Can't wait til James Cameron gives us glasses-less 3D.


I've had little issues. I find the Epson to be awesome for 3D once set correctly. I had a old Mitsubishi HC5/HC900 which "did" 3D but could never find a setting/glasses combo that i could watch more than about 15mins. Just setting up the Epson for 3D i accidentally watched a whole movie!!! Night and day between bad 3D and good 3D

I've tried a few glasses, which I've detailed in the FAQ i made. Some are better than others for me. I found the nice light cheap Samsung ones, whilst being good, to not have enough light blocking around the edges. 
I find heavier ones need a nose bridge break and some work better with my glasses than others.

I'd also mention that the movies VARY incredibly. A good 3D movie is stunning, a poor one a bit lackluster. Avatar is breathtaking. Judge Dredd awesome and I really like some of the Pixar movies in 3D - Inside out / Car 3 and Planes have all become a bit of a guilty pleasure!!!


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## asolor78

Have to ask if anyone has come across the random blue and orange flashing lights? This occured as I was stopping a 4k hdr movie where the screen went from movie image to dark screenshot.. in this mode it just brings me to a black blank screen...then thinking my bluray player i noticed the 5050 was running fan loud...i did follow the epson guidelines... Indicating this may be bulb running out or damaged... But followed directions..and unplugged power ..gave 5min and plugged back in.. and pj worked with image working... Ive only placed about 190hrs so far.. so hoping this just a random occurance.... My epson 5010 would randomly have these glitches but hoping its not a bulb issue..


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## Alaric

asolor78 said:


> Have to ask if anyone has come across the random blue and orange flashing lights? This occured as I was stopping a 4k hdr movie where the screen went from movie image to dark screenshot.. in this mode it just brings me to a black blank screen...then thinking my bluray player i noticed the 5050 was running fan loud...i did follow the epson guidelines... Indicating this may be bulb running out or damaged... But followed directions..and unplugged power ..gave 5min and plugged back in.. and pj worked with image working... Ive only placed about 190hrs so far.. so hoping this just a random occurance.... My epson 5010 would randomly have these glitches but hoping its not a bulb issue..


I've occasionally had a LONG start up....It switches on and high fan noise for a minute or so and then the Epson logo comes up and away I go. It doesn't always do it. Think once i actually pulled the plug


----------



## Alex Hindman

Is it worth getting a projector if I can't paint my walls dark? It will have complete light control but white walls. I dont want to invest if my experience will be poor.


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## drober30

Alex Hindman said:


> Is it worth getting a projector if I can't paint my walls dark? It will have complete light control but white walls. I dont want to invest if my experience will be poor.


Absolutely! With complete light control the lights will be off when watching movies.

White walls are not as detrimental as ambient light shinning on the screen. I have had white walls in my theater basement area for fifteen years and it’s been fine but I am in the process of redoing it and will be painting them darker.

If this is serving as a TV in a living room, then you can start to look at ALR screen options which allows the picture to look good with lights on. Those screens are more expensive.


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## tsharp

Drywall up... Time for a test run. Audience is 8 years old so allowed him to pick the show. It's shifted high because the projector was about 6 feet off the ground for testing purposes only. Actual screen will be much lower.

Just a few weeks left until finish.




















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Hawkmarket

Alex Hindman said:


> Is it worth getting a projector if I can't paint my walls dark? It will have complete light control but white walls. I dont want to invest if my experience will be poor.


I wouldn't go with a white screen in that environment. I'd probably lean more towards a grey screen or even something like an SI Slate depending on your viewing angle. As long as you can keep daylight off of it the screen can help with reflective light from walls and the ceiling. With daylight from windows there's very little hope.


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## skylarlove1999

mach250 said:


> So I'm looking at these cables, any opinions? Figured out that playing with chroma 4:2:0, 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 would either get rid of the green dots or bring them back. My laptop probably only outputs RGB or the 4:2:0 sample.
> 
> *Fiber HDMI Cable Optical Slim 4K 30FT,4K60HZ HDR Light Speed HDMI2.0b Cable, Supports 18.2 Gbps, ARC, HDR10, Dolby Vision, HDCP2.2, 4:4:4,Ultra Slim and Flexible HDMI Optic Cable with Optic Technology
> *
> *Fiber HDMI Cable 25ft 4K 60Hz, FURUI Fiber Optic HDMI 2.0b Cable HDR10, ARC, HDCP2.2, 3D, Dolby Vision, 18Gbps, Subsampling 4:4:4/4:2:2/4:2:0 Slim and Flexible HDMI Fiber Optic Cable  *
> 
> *Fiber HDMI Cable RUIPRO 4K60HZ 33 feet Light Speed HDMI2.0b Cable, Supports 18.2 Gbps, ARC, HDR10, Dolby Vision, HDCP2.2, 4:4:4, Ultra Slim and  Flexible HDMI Optic Cable with Optic Technology 10m *


I own the furui at 50 ft length. Epson 6050UB Panasonic ub820 and Denon 6500. That cables works well with everything in my setup including Roku Ultra player. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

tsharp said:


> Drywall up... Time for a test run. Audience is 8 years old so allowed him to pick the show. It's shifted high because the projector was about 6 feet off the ground for testing purposes only. Actual screen will be much lower.
> 
> Just a few weeks left until finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You are going to be in Home Theater Heaven once it's all finished make sure you finish it LOL I seen people get to that stage just start watching movies and never finish for months.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Alex Hindman said:


> Is it worth getting a projector if I can't paint my walls dark? It will have complete light control but white walls. I dont want to invest if my experience will be poor.


I would invest in a gray screen it will significantly increase your black levels and your contrast and should improve your depth as well. As long as you can control the light I still think you will have a fantastic experience

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Alex Hindman said:


> Is it worth getting a projector if I can't paint my walls dark? It will have complete light control but white walls. I dont want to invest if my experience will be poor.


What you need to do is go to a specialist Home Cinema store that can show you some ALR screens.


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## DunMunro

Alex Hindman said:


> Is it worth getting a projector if I can't paint my walls dark? It will have complete light control but white walls. I dont want to invest if my experience will be poor.


Curtain rods and black drapes. Keep them open and tied off when you want more light and then close them when you want the theatre experience. It's much easier than painting and doesn't cost much either.


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## asolor78

Could anyone be able to assist me on settings based on sony x700 with epson 5050? The setting i question is "TV or Projector" ? I know that sound ridiculous due the fact that what i own is a projector.. but is that hindering anything ... and i just wonder if that should be left on projector or is there any benefit leaving it at t.v.? Only due to the hdr slider that this pj comes with not sure if it is limiting anything


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## MississippiMan

tsharp said:


> Drywall up... Time for a test run. Audience is 8 years old so allowed him to pick the show. It's shifted high because the projector was about 6 feet off the ground for testing purposes only. Actual screen will be much lower.
> 
> Just a few weeks left until finish.



Can't be much lower...you only have about 9" to those Outlets.


----------



## Mr.G

mach250 said:


> So I'm looking at these cables, any opinions? Figured out that playing with chroma 4:2:0, 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 would either get rid of the green dots or bring them back. My laptop probably only outputs RGB or the 4:2:0 sample.
> 
> *Fiber HDMI Cable RUIPRO 4K60HZ 33 feet Light Speed HDMI2.0b Cable, Supports 18.2 Gbps, ARC, HDR10, Dolby Vision, HDCP2.2, 4:4:4, Ultra Slim and Flexible HDMI Optic Cable with Optic Technology 10m *


The Ruipro Hybrid cable is well regarded and a favorite among AVS members. I use the 15m (50 foot) version.


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## Krbass

MississippiMan said:


> Can't be much lower...you only have about 9" to those Outlets.


Looks like he may be doing an acoustically transparent screen.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


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## tsharp

Krbass said:


> Looks like he may be doing an acoustically transparent screen.
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk




Sure enough! Screen height will be 73” so will fit nicely in the space. Viewing height is 65”. 

Planning on 11.5 feet or so for MLP. It’s quite immersive but the 5050’s lens gives me option to scale it down if it’s too big. Just so difficult to choose screen size when projecting on concrete wall


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Biggydeen

So i'm thinking about buying the 5050UB but the 6050UB really confuses me. Is the 6050UB even available in Europe?

The only one I can find in Europe is the TW9400 (and wireless version). According to many this is the European version of the 5050UB. Can't find any information about the 6050UB Europe version.

What confuses me more is that the TW9400 is black and the 5050UB is white. Also, retailers in Europe have listed an contrast ratio of 1.200.000:1 on the TW9400 productpage. But afaik the 5050UB should have 1.000.000:1 and the 6050UB should have 1.200.000:1.

There are no models above the TW9400 in Europe. So the 6050UB does not exist in Europe?


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## Luminated67

Biggydeen said:


> So i'm thinking about buying the 5050UB but the 6050UB really confuses me. Is the 6050UB even available in Europe?
> 
> The only one I can find in Europe is the TW9400 (and wireless version). According to many this is the European version of the 5050UB. Can't find any information about the 6050UB Europe version.
> 
> What confuses me more is that the TW9400 is black and the 5050UB is white. Also, retailers in Europe have listed an contrast ratio of 1.200.000:1 on the TW9400 productpage. But afaik the 5050UB should have 1.000.000:1 and the 6050UB should have 1.200.000:1.
> 
> There are no models above the TW9400 in Europe. So the 6050UB does not exist in Europe?


The TW9400 is the 6050, there’s a TW8400 is some countries though not in the UK which is the 5050.

P.S.

It’s not retailers that are listing the 9400’s contrast as 1,200,000:1 it’s Epson themselves.


----------



## Biggydeen

Luminated67 said:


> The TW9400 is the 6050, there’s a TW8400 is some countries though not in the UK which is the 5050.


Hmm, that's interesting. As the 6050UB comes with an extra lamp and ceiling mount and goes for 4k$. The TW9400 does not have all that and goes for 2.4k$ (or 2200 euro). Sounds like a bargain then.


----------



## Luminated67

Biggydeen said:


> Hmm, that's interesting. As the 6050UB comes with an extra lamp and ceiling mount and goes for 4k$. The TW9400 does not have all that and goes for 2.4k$ (or 2200 euro). Sounds like a bargain then.


It is indeed a bargain and if you were like me as one of the first to get it you got an Epson 5yr warranty thrown in as well. As for the mount it’s approximately £120 and a spare bulb £100.


----------



## Liquid$team

Biggydeen said:


> Hmm, that's interesting. As the 6050UB comes with an extra lamp and ceiling mount and goes for 4k$. The TW9400 does not have all that and goes for 2.4k$ (or 2200 euro). Sounds like a bargain then.


I bought my 6050 from https://dreamediaav.com/ for MUCH less than $4k I won't give price due to retail and forum rules but email or call them. Free shipping and no sales tax if you are out of Texas. You may know them from their you tube channels.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsuHhF6wWKvUDimNZDXNevQ

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0JjiIOIWmYIs-p7GETaFMQ


----------



## FendersRule

Last night, me and two other people sat down and watched Dredd 3D with the 5050.

Yes, after a short time your eyes get used to the Active 3D.

It was a massive hit, both the movie and the 3D. 

3D is awesome on the 5050UB.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

So this started happening last night. I notice it on any fade to black scenes / any full dark screen ie clicking on Netflix as it loads. 










Can’t seem to catch a break with the 5050 UB, sorry for the poor quality pictures, I had to rapid fire the phone before the fade ended could not focus anything.


----------



## plain fan

It's hard to tell from the pictures, is that a blue dot?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

plain fan said:


> It's hard to tell from the pictures, is that a blue dot?



That’s exactly what it is.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> That’s exactly what it is.


I am sure you know this already but that looks like a dust blob. I feel so bad for you. This is your third 5050 already if I remember correctly. I don't have words at this point.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## mach250

Good luck with dust. Before I tossed my 8350 in the trash I took it apart, it's a pretty large task to get everything apart to remove dust from the different glass elements/filters. It would be nice if the light path was sealed so no dust would enter it at all and it shouldn't be difficult or expensive to add a plastic "lid" to the section.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am sure you know this already but that looks like a dust blob. I feel so bad for you. This is your third 5050 already if I remember correctly. I don't have words at this point.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




I’m on the phone with Epson now, waiting on approval to get another projector. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I’m on the phone with Epson now, waiting on approval to get another projector.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Let me know if I can be of any assistance 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## smbsocal

We moved and I went from a dedicated bat cave to a multi-purpose media room with some light control. The screen is a 120" 1.0 gain screen that is 16' away from the projector. I currently have a 6 year old Sony HW50ES with a somewhat new bulb but it just isn't able to put enough light to throw a picture during the day.


Most of what we watch wouldn't be 4k so not really needing 4k but it will be nice for the HDR. From all of the reviews it sounds like the 5050 will put out more than enough lumens to compensate for ambient light.


I had a Epson 1080UB and 6500UB back in the day and they were good projectors. I did have to deal with a dust blob once but was able to dislodge it will compressed air. How have the 5050's been with dust blobs? Anything to be aware of or should I just be able to mount it and go?



If the 5050 doesn't work I will probably go with a Sony 695ES, since the JVCs are not great with upconversion to 4k and they dropped the 790.


Tx


----------



## rob80b

CallingMrBenzo said:


> I’m on the phone with Epson now, waiting on approval to get another projector.
> 
> 
> .....



Yep we do hear a lot about dust blobs...I do not have a 5050 but a 4030 bought new (old stock not a refurb) from Epson in February this year that now has 2...at least with the 5050 one's replacement may still be new or a rather recent refurbished unit and you could continue to send them back until you have a good one.
Epson offered me a replacement, still thinking about it as with a discontinued model there's no guarantee the replacement will not have other issues and maybe even more dust blobs...... the replacement may eventually (probably) get some......for now at least they're only visible on "some" dark scenes but once you know they're there.......


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

rob80b said:


> Yep we do hear a lot about dust blobs...I do not have a 5050 but a 4030 bought new (old stock not a refurb) from Epson in February this year that now has 2...at least with the 5050 one's replacement may still be new or a rather recent refurbished unit and you could continue to send them back until you have a good one.
> Epson offered me a replacement, still thinking about it as with a discontinued model there's no guarantee the replacement will not have other issues and maybe even more dust blobs...... the replacement may eventually (probably) get some......for now at least they're only visible on "some" dark scenes but once you know they're there.......




It does suck. I am getting a new unit should be here tomorrow. I am so bummed. I had this calibrated by Chad B and now I’m back to square one.


----------



## rob80b

CallingMrBenzo said:


> It does suck. ......... I had this calibrated by Chad B and now I’m back to square one.



That does suck........if it wasn't a "new" one I'd be tempted to live with and try to learn to ignore the dust blob...instead of playing roulette with the refurbs.


----------



## smbsocal

rob80b said:


> Yep we do hear a lot about dust blobs...I do not have a 5050 but a 4030 bought new (old stock not a refurb) from Epson in February this year that now has 2...at least with the 5050 one's replacement may still be new or a rather recent refurbished unit and you could continue to send them back until you have a good one.
> Epson offered me a replacement, still thinking about it as with a discontinued model there's no guarantee the replacement will not have other issues and maybe even more dust blobs...... the replacement may eventually (probably) get some......for now at least they're only visible on "some" dark scenes but once you know they're there.......



It is nice that Epson is willing and able to send out replacement units for dust blobs. On the other side of the coin you have the SXRD/D-ILA which have panel degradation so I guess either way you can run into issues with panels.


----------



## jeahrens

smbsocal said:


> It is nice that Epson is willing and able to send out replacement units for dust blobs. On the other side of the coin you have the SXRD/D-ILA which have panel degradation so I guess either way you can run into issues with panels.


Sony, which terms their panels SXRD, has had panel degradation issues. JVC, which is DILA, has not. JVC does have some gamma droop as the bulb matures, but this is easily correctable.


----------



## jeahrens

CallingMrBenzo said:


> It does suck. I am getting a new unit should be here tomorrow. I am so bummed. I had this calibrated by Chad B and now I’m back to square one.


Keep your chin up. There's at least one owner of the new JVC NX9 that needed 3 units to get a good one. That's an EXPENSIVE unit. Hopefully this one will be the golden sample and last you years.


----------



## smbsocal

jeahrens said:


> Sony, which terms their panels SXRD, has had panel degradation issues. JVC, which is DILA, has not.



If you read the forums you will see that JVC panels have issues with the 'gamma shifting over time'. You can call it what you want but both solution's panels change over time which is why both Sony and JVC have now added features to help compensate for this.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

jeahrens said:


> Keep your chin up. There's at least one owner of the new JVC NX9 that needed 3 units to get a good one. That's an EXPENSIVE unit. Hopefully this one will be the golden sample and last you years.






rob80b said:


> That does suck........if it wasn't a "new" one I'd be tempted to live with and try to learn to ignore the dust blob...instead of playing roulette with the refurbs.




Thanks boys. I hope so too. I am okay to swap the setting from the old unit. It’s panel alignment and convergence that I do not know how to do. He also focused this thing razor sharp.


----------



## jeahrens

smbsocal said:


> If you read the forums you will see that JVC panels have issues with the 'gamma shifting over time'. You can call it what you want but both solution's panels change over time which is why both Sony and JVC have now added features to help compensate for this.



They are not the same at all. 

The SXRD panel degradation is not correctable. It's a permanent degradation of the panels performance. You can not recover this performance without replacing the entire light engine.

JVC's gamma droop is simply the bulbs, as they age, show a drop in the mid gamma regions. Which can be remedied easily with picture controls or a calibration. Or a new bulb, though no one would do that unless the bulb is almost dead anyway.


----------



## rob80b

smbsocal said:


> It is nice that Epson is willing and able to send out replacement units for dust blobs. ..........




Yep...years ago it must have been a tough company call as the cooling of the light source cannot be sealed...imagine tire companies doing the same with punctured tubes. 
But since dust blobs have been an issue since day 1 with LCD and other projectors I'm surprised the end user hasn't been accommodated with some means of cleaning or gaining access to the light path without a complete disassembly, maybe a gasket sealed panel with dedicated utensils with strict cleaning instructions...now that would open up another can of worms. .... 
All in all though the 5050 appears to have been received quite well and for price/performance projects a wonderful picture and probably my future upgrade...the refurbished 5040s are also tempting but one has a good chance of being subjected to dust blobs right from the start.


----------



## smbsocal

jeahrens said:


> They are not the same at all.
> 
> The SXRD panel degradation is not correctable. It's a permanent degradation of the panels performance. You can not recover this performance without replacing the entire light engine.
> 
> JVC's gamma droop is simply the bulbs, as they age, show a drop in the mid gamma regions. Which can be remedied easily with picture controls or a calibration. Or a new bulb, though no one would do that unless the bulb is almost dead anyway.



What I have read, here and elsewhere, is that the JVC gamma droop is panel based. As you stated they have a autocal to compensate for this. Sony has also added a sensor to compensate for theirs as well.


----------



## jeahrens

smbsocal said:


> What I have read, here and elsewhere, is that the JVC gamma droop is panel based. As you stated they have a autocal to compensate for this. Sony has also added a sensor to compensate for theirs as well.


Read the Sony threads on panel degradation. It's not correctable nor is it the same phenomenon. However I have heard this generation and the prior one Sony has "fixed" the issue, but I haven't kept up with their products to know if that is true or not. I do know that when I was looking at the Sony 4Ks at the same time as the Epson 5040 and JVC e-shift models that the loss of contrast was substantial and the only fix was a total display engine replacement. Which out of warranty was more than the projector was worth.

I may be mistaken on whether the gamma droop is panel or bulb based on the JVC. Honestly it was so easy to correct on my RS46 at 1200 hrs it falls into the nuisance category and nothing more. So I haven't given it much thought. It's a far cry from irreversible panel degradation that costs several thousands to fix that plagued the Sonys. I don't think anyone has enough hours on the 4K JVC units to know whether a correction will be necessary. If it is, meh. 

Trying to lump the 2 together is like saying a 15 minute free tuneup on your car is in the same ballpark as replacing the entire drivetrain.


----------



## plain fan

I just found the thread on SXRD panel degradation in the Sony's and felt that it pushed me towards the 5050/6050 until I started reading that dust blobs are becoming an issue for some users. Is it really this difficult to design out *known* flaws?


----------



## smbsocal

jeahrens said:


> Read the Sony threads on panel degradation. It's not correctable nor is it the same phenomenon. However I have heard this generation and the prior one Sony has "fixed" the issue, but I haven't kept up with their products to know if that is true or not. I do know that when I was looking at the Sony 4Ks at the same time as the Epson 5040 and JVC e-shift models that the loss of contrast was substantial and the only fix was a total display engine replacement. Which out of warranty was more than the projector was worth.
> 
> I may be mistaken on whether the gamma droop is panel or bulb based on the JVC. Honestly it was so easy to correct on my RS46 at 1200 hrs it falls into the nuisance category and nothing more. So I haven't given it much thought. It's a far cry from irreversible panel degradation that costs several thousands to fix that plagued the Sonys. I don't think anyone has enough hours on the 4K JVC units to know whether a correction will be necessary. If it is, meh.
> 
> Trying to lump the 2 together is like saying a 15 minute free tuneup on your car is in the same ballpark as replacing the entire drivetrain.



Sony and JVC both use variations of the same technology, LCOS, and both have panels that change over time, since you don't want to use the word degradation. JVC has acknowledged this and the auto cal will help compensate for it but you cannot for Sony which means you live with the change or switch out the panels. You can read the JVC Auto Calibration thread which has information about the panel degradation, sometimes auto cal helps other times it doesn't. If I am not mistaken Sony now has ways to compensate for panel change in the newest high end units.


Sorry for the thread derailment. I guess the end result is that all of the solutions have some sort of compromise or issue unfortunately.


----------



## smbsocal

The 5050UB arrived late today and I was able to switch out the Sony HW50ES with the 5050. Right off the bat the weight may be similar but the Epson is quite a bit larger.


A quick convergence check using the Epson pattern looked pretty good, just a little off horizontally.


I hooked up the new Panasonic 820 and popped in the Aquaman 4k. I only had an hour with the projector so I didn't do any fine tuning but all I can say is WOW. The HDR image that the Epson can throw out is incredible. I wanted more lumens to handle ambient light and the Epson has it in spades. Explosions and lasers on screen are blinding.


The negatives are that the Epson fan is noisier than the Sony in any mode (Eco, Med or High). The other issue is that the image isn't as crisp when there is a lot of movement. I didn't have much time so not sure if it is an issue with the Aquaman media, Epson's motion handling being less capable than Sony's or if it is a limitation of the 4k Eshift.


I will be able to give some more details once I have some more time with the projector but the wife said that she could definitely see the improvement which says a lot.


----------



## Biggydeen

plain fan said:


> I just found the thread on SXRD panel degradation in the Sony's and felt that it pushed me towards the 5050/6050 until I started reading that dust blobs are becoming an issue for some users. Is it really this difficult to design out *known* flaws?


That's quite funny, I had exactly the same. I almost pulled the trigger to buy a new Sony until I saw the panel degradation thread. This had me looking for an alternative and the Epson seemed like a great competitor. But if you compare the flaws, dust bulbs can be prevented. Panel degradation is a much bigger problem. If these were easy flaws to fix they would probably have done it a long time ago. Also, you cannot judge the flaws based on a few forum posts. Maybe only 1% of the total sold projectors have these issues.

But I'm happy I found the tread t.b.h. because now I can buy the 6050UB (TW9400) for a cheap retail price and definitely beats the Sony.

As for preventing dust bulbs, I will use a dust cover (when the projector is not being used), swap the dust filter on a regular basis and maybe using a spare (very quiet air sucking system to suck off the heat and incoming dust).


----------



## matbhuvi

I am scanning for a good article/thread for calibrating projector with monitor calibration tools. I have a xrite i1Display Pro. Not able to figure out a way to calibrate my 5050 with it. Has anyone done so with x-rite or spyder?


----------



## jeahrens

smbsocal said:


> Sony and JVC both use variations of the same technology, LCOS, and both have panels that change over time, since you don't want to use the word degradation. JVC has acknowledged this and the auto cal will help compensate for it but you cannot for Sony which means you live with the change or switch out the panels. You can read the JVC Auto Calibration thread which has information about the panel degradation, sometimes auto cal helps other times it doesn't. If I am not mistaken Sony now has ways to compensate for panel change in the newest high end units.
> 
> 
> Sorry for the thread derailment. I guess the end result is that all of the solutions have some sort of compromise or issue unfortunately.


I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but all of us should and likely will consider different brands going down the road. I don't use the word degradation as it implies permanency. The JVC gamma droop is something you can easily correct and will end up with gamma that tracks perfectly. The SXRD issue Sony owners have fought with can't be corrected and requires several thousand dollars to fix. They may use the same technology, but the implementation is different. 

There is a dedicated thread on the $3000+ projector forum with 2,198 posts on the Sony SXRD issue. There is no thread I'm aware addressing gamma droop on the JVCs and you will rarely see it mentioned in threads because it is essentially a non-issue. It just needs to be understood that this is not at all the same level of severity.


----------



## mach250

Biggydeen said:


> That's quite funny, I had exactly the same. I almost pulled the trigger to buy a new Sony until I saw the panel degradation thread. This had me looking for an alternative and the Epson seemed like a great competitor. But if you compare the flaws, dust bulbs can be prevented. Panel degradation is a much bigger problem. If these were easy flaws to fix they would probably have done it a long time ago. Also, you cannot judge the flaws based on a few forum posts. Maybe only 1% of the total sold projectors have these issues.
> 
> But I'm happy I found the tread t.b.h. because now I can buy the 6050UB (TW9400) for a cheap retail price and definitely beats the Sony.
> 
> As for preventing dust bulbs, I will use a dust cover (when the projector is not being used), swap the dust filter on a regular basis and maybe using a spare *(very quiet air sucking system to suck off the heat and incoming dust)*.



Can you explain what you mean here?




matbhuvi said:


> I am scanning for a good article/thread for calibrating projector with monitor calibration tools. I have a xrite i1Display Pro. Not able to figure out a way to calibrate my 5050 with it. Has anyone done so with x-rite or spyder?



I have the xrite but haven't used the projector calibration yet. Should be straight forward once you use the software it comes with. It was super easy on my computer monitors.


----------



## smbsocal

jeahrens said:


> I don't mean to beat a dead horse, but all of us should and likely will consider different brands going down the road. I don't use the word degradation as it implies permanency. The JVC gamma droop is something you can easily correct and will end up with gamma that tracks perfectly. The SXRD issue Sony owners have fought with can't be corrected and requires several thousand dollars to fix. They may use the same technology, but the implementation is different.
> 
> There is a dedicated thread on the $3000+ projector forum with 2,198 posts on the Sony SXRD issue. There is no thread I'm aware addressing gamma droop on the JVCs and you will rarely see it mentioned in threads because it is essentially a non-issue. It just needs to be understood that this is not at all the same level of severity.


Just because people give it a specific name, gamma droop, doesn't change what it is. Please do some searches and you will find info on the JVC panel degradation aka gamma droop. Heck if you want you can read over the JVC Auto Cal thread on here with 806 posts (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...-usd-msrp/1493203-jvc-auto-calibration-9.html). 

The end of the story is that both Sony and JVC use the same technology and both have issues but JVC has auto cal which is a work around to help compensate for the issue but it does not fix the actual physical panels.

Yes there are a lot of JVC loyalists that ignore the issues that their projectors have and unfortunately this does a disservice to those that are in the market. The whole reason this line of conversation came up was to bring up the fact that Epson can run into dust blobs due to their LCD implementation but the sealed LCOS implementations also have their own issues, such as panel degradation. If the Epson 5050UB, which just arrived last night, doesn't work out for me I will either go to the Sony 695ES or JVC NX7.


----------



## jeahrens

smbsocal said:


> Just because people give it a specific name, gamma droop, doesn't change what it is. Please do some searches and you will find info on the JVC panel degradation aka gamma droop. Heck if you want you can read over the JVC Auto Cal thread on here with 806 posts (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...-usd-msrp/1493203-jvc-auto-calibration-9.html).


Yes it's a correctable nuisance. And GASP the auto cal thread and software are used for much more than dealing with this. So those 806 posts are not all about gamma droop. The thread on SXRD is over 2000 posts specifically about an uncorrectable, very expensive to remedy, design flaw.




smbsocal said:


> The end of the story is that both Sony and JVC use the same technology and both have issues but JVC has auto cal which is a work around to help compensate for the issue but it does not fix the actual physical panels.


End of story there is no defect that can't be easily corrected on brand A, but there is on brand B. So regardless of sharing similar technologies, the issues aren't even in the same league as far as severity.



smbsocal said:


> Yes there are a lot of JVC fan boys that ignore the issues that their projectors have and unfortunately this does a disservice to those that are in the market. The whole reason this line of conversation came up was to bring up the fact that Epson can run into dust blobs due to their LCD implementation but the sealed LCOS implementations also have their own issues, such as panel degradation.


Oh the fan boy card! Yay! No I think most everyone that has owned a JVC past a certain point acknowledges droop exists. I did in a post above. And gosh it was such a chore to spend the 10 minutes to restore perfect gamma tracking. Absolutely the same thing as spending more the than the projector is worth for an uncorrectable loss of picture quality .

One of our LCD projectors at work had a blue panel go bad and turned the entire picture blue. Sounds like a flaw with EVERY LCD projector. I mean there couldn't possibly be differences in implementation. So you should run from all of them. That's sarcasm BTW. I've recommended the 5050 in more threads since it's release than anything else. Guess that makes me biased huh.


----------



## smbsocal

jeahrens said:


> End of story there is no defect that can't be easily corrected on brand A, but there is on brand B. So regardless of sharing similar technologies, the issues aren't even in the same league as far as severity.



I am sorry but a software adjustment cannot repair physical panel degradation, it can only compensate for it to an extent.


----------



## jeahrens

smbsocal said:


> I am sorry but a software adjustment cannot repair physical panel degradation, it can only compensate for it to an extent.


And if the gamma tracks 100% perfectly and there is no contrast degradation, color shift or lumens impact this matters why? The extent it is compensated for is 100%.

Is it a major flaw with bulb projectors we need to adjust calibration every few hundred hours too?


----------



## sirius_basterd

*discounts*

I see the Epson 5050 is currently going for $2700 around the web. Has anyone ever seen better deals than this that are worth holding out for? If you sign up for a Best Buy credit card you can get a 10% reward (only for use at best buy of course) which comes out to $2430, plus tax. Any other places worth considering?


----------



## skylarlove1999

sirius_basterd said:


> I see the Epson 5050 is currently going for $2700 around the web. Has anyone ever seen better deals than this that are worth holding out for? If you sign up for a Best Buy credit card you can get a 10% reward (only for use at best buy of course) which comes out to $2430, plus tax. Any other places worth considering?


Please refrain from Price discussion of anything other than manufacturer suggested retail price. I am not trying to be a Debbie Downer I just hate to see anybody get banned for discussing price. Generally staying that company or store a has a great deal going on right now and mentioning that they offer a 10% reward should not violate the rules of the Forum. But outright naming prices is not permitted and has been discuss several times.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Barrettmr

skylarlove1999 said:


> Please refrain from Price discussion of anything other than manufacturer suggested retail price. I am not trying to be a Debbie Downer I just hate to see anybody get banned for discussing price. Generally staying that company or store a has a great deal going on right now and mentioning that they offer a 10% reward should not violate the rules of the Forum. But outright naming prices is not permitted and has been discuss several times.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'm guessing this is an Epson price drop as the discount is everywhere including Epson's site? I saw it a few weeks ago at the same discount and then it went back up for a couple of weeks, and now dropped again... can we discuss manufacture pricing when they do this?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Barrettmr said:


> I'm guessing this is an Epson price drop as the discount is everywhere including Epson's site? I saw it a few weeks ago at the same discount and then it went back up for a couple of weeks, and now dropped again... can we discuss manufacture pricing when they do this?


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...hare_tid=2996364&share_fid=47413&share_type=t

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## smbsocal

Used the 5050 for the second time, finished up watching Aquaman 4k. We started the movie early in the evening while the sun was out with a good amount of ambient light (from the sun) and even on Digital Cinema with the cinema filter the image it put out was brighter than the Sony HW50ES with a newer bulb (125 hours). To say the least the image it threw out blows away the Sony in our installation.


After the movie I took the time to adjust the panel alignment and was able to get it to almost be perfectly aligned. Red and Blue were both off a little but the adjustment menu made quick work of that.


The noise the projector puts out compared to the Sony is still the biggest issue.


The only things, to me, that the Sony does better is lower noise levels and better motion handling.


As of now the Epson 5050 is a major upgrade over the Sony HW50ES.


----------



## Barrettmr

skylarlove1999 said:


> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...hare_tid=2996364&share_fid=47413&share_type=t
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you for the link.


----------



## Barrettmr

So I have the 5050ub coming tomorrow as an upgrade to the 5020ub which has started having delayed start up issues (I figure it's on the way out!) and have some questions.

Are some of the pain points with the 5020ub addressed, such as the slowly dropping lens shift and going out of focus over time? Also when the 5020ub came out a lot of users (mine seemed ok) complained about panel convergence and I remember reading a lot of posts with recommendations on how to make changes without killing PQ. 

I'll check for dust blobs as that sounds like it could be something to look for, anything else I should look at when it comes?

Also, any links to setup guides for calibration DIY style and how to get the best HDR experience from the 5050ub (I have the Pano 820 and HTPC w/MadVR and remember a lot of what seemed like complex tweeks needed for projection)? 

I'm very new to 4k and HDR and didn't think there would be so much to learn to get it setup for the best PQ  so any help is greatly appreciated.

and now I'm just hopeful this 4k e-shift looks good on my AT weave screen


----------



## skylarlove1999

Barrettmr said:


> Thank you for the link.


Sure no problem I have been guilty of price mansions and where to buy myself so I know how hard it is when you want to try and help everybody out

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

smbsocal said:


> Used the 5050 for the second time, finished up watching Aquaman 4k......To say the least the image it threw out blows away the Sony in our installation.


Aquaman is a stunner on the 5050. After I had mine calibrated by Chad, we sat and watched a few scenes. I know I was. Pure eye candy. 

I had my wife watch a scene or two while I toggled the HDR on and off. Normally she's a "I can't see the difference" type of person. Not this time.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

ckronengold said:


> Aquaman is a stunner on the 5050. After I had mine calibrated by Chad, we sat and watched a few scenes. I know I was. Pure eye candy.
> 
> 
> 
> I had my wife watch a scene or two while I toggled the HDR on and off. Normally she's a "I can't see the difference" type of person. Not this time.




Isn’t it nice when they notice.


----------



## ckronengold

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Isn’t it nice when they notice.


Sure. But it would be nicer if it didn't require a button to fully turn off the HDR for them to notice.


----------



## mon2479

I was reading an article on the 6050/5050 and there were some calibration settings posted at the end. Since I don't have one of these yet, anyone want to give these a try and report back to us?https://turbofuture.com/consumer-electronics/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB-TW9400-Projector-Review-And-Recommended-Settings


----------



## Phatmac

biglen said:


> Here's a few. It's definitely darker in person. The camera seems to make them look a little lighter. The pic that has the big movie reel picture on the wall, is probably the closest to the real color. It looks super rich in person. You'll love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk



What chairs do you have there?


----------



## biglen

Phatmac said:


> What chairs do you have there?


Seatcraft Sienna from 4seating.com

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

mon2479 said:


> I was reading an article on the 6050/5050 and there were some calibration settings posted at the end. Since I don't have one of these yet, anyone want to give these a try and report back to us?https://turbofuture.com/consumer-electronics/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB-TW9400-Projector-Review-And-Recommended-Settings


Those are settings of @Alaric


----------



## biglen

I'm going back and forth on how I want to mount my 5050. I definitely need it to go behind a wall so I can have the right throw distance. My 2 options are:

1. Mount it in the utility room, and cut a hole in the wall so the image can be shot on the wall. I guess there's always a chance it might be a little more dusty in the utility room, bit it doesn't seem so to me. 

2. Cut a hole in the wall, and make a generous sized box to slide the projector in. I guess the only issue would be heat, but like I said, it would be plenty big around the sides, and the front would be totally open. 

Any thoughts?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I'm going back and forth on how I want to mount my 5050. I definitely need it to go behind a wall so I can have the right throw distance. My 2 options are:
> 
> 1. Mount it in the utility room, and cut a hole in the wall so the image can be shot on the wall. I guess there's always a chance it might be a little more dusty in the utility room, bit it doesn't seem so to me.
> 
> 2. Cut a hole in the wall, and make a generous sized box to slide the projector in. I guess the only issue would be heat, but like I said, it would be plenty big around the sides, and the front would be totally open.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


You could do option 2 only instead of leaving just the front open you could cut a couple of holes in the back of the box to mount a couple of fans to suck from the front and blow it into the utility room thus no dust coming from the utility.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> You could do option 2 only instead of leaving just the front open you could cut a couple of holes in the back of the box to mount a couple of fans to suck from the front and blow it into the utility room thus no dust coming from the utility.


The back of the box would actually be up against some duct work to give me the max throw distance. I could do the sides, bottom, or top of the box with fans though. How deep in the box would I be able to slide the projector back, before the image starts hitting the bottom front or top front of the box? Any idea? I'd say it would be pushed back about 6 inches in the box. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

mon2479 said:


> I was reading an article on the 6050/5050 and there were some calibration settings posted at the end. Since I don't have one of these yet, anyone want to give these a try and report back to us?https://turbofuture.com/consumer-el...400-Projector-Review-And-Recommended-Settings


Yeah... The cheeky buggers nicked my settings table. They work great on my projector 

Though i rarely use the HDR bright one on high power as on a 120" screen in a batcave it's a bit bright for most films (Pixar incredibles 2 however it was useful to have). More often i drop it down to medium!

Just watched Bladerunner Final cut UHD on accurate. Oh My that's pretty!


Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## zenoran

asolor78 said:


> Have to ask if anyone has come across the random blue and orange flashing lights? This occured as I was stopping a 4k hdr movie where the screen went from movie image to dark screenshot.. in this mode it just brings me to a black blank screen...then thinking my bluray player i noticed the 5050 was running fan loud...i did follow the epson guidelines... Indicating this may be bulb running out or damaged... But followed directions..and unplugged power ..gave 5min and plugged back in.. and pj worked with image working... Ive only placed about 190hrs so far.. so hoping this just a random occurance.... My epson 5010 would randomly have these glitches but hoping its not a bulb issue..




I just came looking for this exact issue. It has happened twice to me now. It flickered the image then went into this mode I couldn’t turn it off and letting it sit there for a long time it stayed until unplugging it. The manual suggests this is a faulty bulb but I only have 250 hours, how could that be?

Anyone know what’s up with this? I might tried calling Epson to see. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

zenoran said:


> I just came looking for this exact issue. It has happened twice to me now. It flickered the image then went into this mode I couldn’t turn it off and letting it sit there for a long time it stayed until unplugging it. The manual suggests this is a faulty bulb but I only have 250 hours, how could that be?
> 
> Anyone know what’s up with this? I might tried calling Epson to see.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


We had this issue with some of the early TW9400s, including mine. Epson sent a replacement bulb but this didn’t cure it for me and the projector was returned for repair, though it spent a total of 3 days away which meant only 1 day at the repair store so must have been a very minor problem.


----------



## zenoran

Luminated67 said:


> We had this issue with some of the early TW9400s, including mine. Epson sent a replacement bulb but this didn’t cure it from me and the projector was returned for repair though it sent a total of 3 days away which meant only 1 day at the repair store so must have been a very minor problem.




So I called Epson and the lady didn’t even really ask much she said that indicates it needs replaced and offered to send a refurb. Man, this will be my 3rd protector, the first one had dust blobs. Getting annoyed with having to install, replace, calibrate and ship replacements. . 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

zenoran said:


> So I called Epson and the lady didn’t even really ask much she said that indicates it needs replaced and offered to send a refurb. Man, this will be my 3rd protector, the first one had dust blobs. Getting annoyed with having to install, replace, calibrate and ship replacements. .
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Me and you both buddy. I just shipped back my Chad B calibrated projector due to I guess a dust blob. I’m pretty annoyed. 4th unit I’ve had at my house.


----------



## lganz316

Sorry guys. What's this dust blob? Is it dust on the lens or on the bulb inside? What's causing it? 



Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

lganz316 said:


> Sorry guys. What's this dust blob? Is it dust on the lens or on the bulb inside? What's causing it?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


Due to the very nature of LED projectors the lens system isn’t sealed as with say a Sony or JVC equivalent projector so there’s a slim change of dust getting into this area we’re is might be seen on the screen. I must admit I haven’t heard too much of this issue on the UK forums so believe it’s more to do with the general movement of air in a house probably caused by the need for air-con systems with ducts possibly in close proximity to the projector itself.


----------



## plain fan

> I must admit I haven’t heard too much of this issue on the UK forums so believe it’s more to do with the general movement of air in a house probably caused by the need for air-con systems with ducts possibly in close proximity to the projector itself.


I'm sure that's entirely possible but it seem odd that multiple people are having problems with the same issue.

Could the people that have experienced dust blobs comment on the location of an HVAC vent or window in relation to where their unit is mounted?


----------



## Luminated67

plain fan said:


> I'm sure that's entirely possible but it seem odd that multiple people are having problems with the same issue.
> 
> Could the people that have experienced dust blobs comment on the location of an HVAC vent or window in relation to where their unit is mounted?


I know it’s pure speculation on my part but we in the UK generally don’t have air-con so the only air movement you’ll get here is if it’s too hot (rare ) is an open window.


----------



## noob00224

If dust blobs do appear, how is this resolved?
Does the warranty cover it, or does Epson have a service for cleaning projectors?
What about box with extra dust filters?


----------



## asolor78

zenoran said:


> asolor78 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have to ask if anyone has come across the random blue and orange flashing lights? This occured as I was stopping a 4k hdr movie where the screen went from movie image to dark screenshot.. in this mode it just brings me to a black blank screen...then thinking my bluray player i noticed the 5050 was running fan loud...i did follow the epson guidelines... Indicating this may be bulb running out or damaged... But followed directions..and unplugged power ..gave 5min and plugged back in.. and pj worked with image working... Ive only placed about 190hrs so far.. so hoping this just a random occurance.... My epson 5010 would randomly have these glitches but hoping its not a bulb issue..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just came looking for this exact issue. It has happened twice to me now. It flickered the image then went into this mode I couldnâ€™️t turn it off and letting it sit there for a long time it stayed until unplugging it. The manual suggests this is a faulty bulb but I only have 250 hours, how could that be?
> 
> Anyone know whatâ€™️s up with this? I might tried calling Epson to see.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

....

just read your post @zenoran, so I can tell you since having blue and orange light blinking havent had issue..I did exactly the same.. take in mind my pj is in garage with minisplit ac.. so it wasnt in the heat.. (little lg can get room cold quick) i feel that it may have been something to do with hdr signal or edid.(i use expanded on epson). Not sure if it triggered some warning ..but again this just due to my observation ..something triggered the epson to go haywire, maybe signaling from my sony x700 and stopping and going into menu home on sony..
.since that incident ive played long 4hrs gaming and watched 4k movies via roku and 4k bluray...had no problems.. @zenoran was ur issue also watching 4k hdr content?... Coming from epson 5010, this isnt scaring me as much but if it persist, id be afriad of the refurb lottery..


----------



## plain fan

Luminated67 said:


> I know it’s pure speculation on my part but we in the UK generally don’t have air-con so the only air movement you’ll get here is if it’s too hot (rare ) is an open window.


Absolutely, which is why it would be a good data point to get from those that have the issue. I'm particularly concerned because I have both air conditioning for those very warm days and I open windows for days when it doesn't require the air conditioning.

I suppose that I could fab up a dust blanket to hang over the projector when not in use but if that's the case then I'd at least like to know in advance.


----------



## lganz316

I never imagined I would go back to 3D after spending good amount of time and money on 4K UHD. 

The 3D on this PJ is excellent. It's great to be completely immersed in 3D on big screen than being blinded by 4K HDR on smaller screens. It is so sad to see 3D being ditched by Studios. 

My only issue with the 9400 / 6050 is it's motion handling in panning shots. I am okay with some telecine judder but sometimes I found it to be frustrating.

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Please bump my question or just throw a link on if there is one, but I'm pretty sure I am going to get the 5050UB in the next week or two and I'm looking for info on what to ceiling mount it with. I have i-joists, so it seems that makes it a little more difficult. Look something like these.


----------



## jklow888

Porknz said:


> Please bump my question or just throw a link on if there is one, but I'm pretty sure I am going to get the 5050UB in the next week or two and I'm looking for info on what to ceiling mount it with. I have i-joists, so it seems that makes it a little more difficult. Look something like these.


I had the same issue - get the framing guys to use some left over (at least) 2 inch wood slats pieces to block out between 2 (or 3) joists at your calculated mount point so you literally have a flat rectangle to mount into and can move back and forth a few inches to suit. They should use flat nail plates and some nails from the sides so it can take 25kg/55 lbs of weight. Also make sure a 2.5 inch hole is cored in the joist(s) so you can feed the HDMI cable through and more advisable, run a 2.5 inch conduit from base of wall to ceiling and use a round arc connector (not a 90 degree) so easy to feed the HDMI cable(s).

As for the mount, for my 6050/TW9400 I use the Peerless Universal (which was used on my replaced JVC) - comes with adjusters to deal with left/right pitch and forward/backward tilt as no frame and ceiling is perfectly perpendicular to every other wall. Easy slide in/out as well.


----------



## BIC2

jklow888 said:


> I had the same issue - get the framing guys to use some left over (at least) 2 inch wood slats pieces to block out between 2 (or 3) joists at your calculated mount point so you literally have a flat rectangle to mount into and can move back and forth a few inches to suit. They should use flat nail plates and some nails from the sides so it can take 25kg/55 lbs of weight. Also make sure a 2.5 inch hole is cored in the joist(s) so you can feed the HDMI cable through and more advisable, run a 2.5 inch conduit from base of wall to ceiling and use a round arc connector (not a 90 degree) so easy to feed the HDMI cable(s).
> 
> As for the mount, for my 6050/TW9400 I use the Peerless Universal (which was used on my replaced JVC) - comes with adjusters to deal with left/right pitch and forward/backward tilt as no frame and ceiling is perfectly perpendicular to every other wall. Easy slide in/out as well.


An easier method for the conduit might be to use a flexible raceway, such as this orange one from Carlon.


----------



## zenoran

asolor78 said:


> ....
> 
> just read your post @zenoran, so I can tell you since having blue and orange light blinking havent had issue..I did exactly the same.. take in mind my pj is in garage with minisplit ac.. so it wasnt in the heat.. (little lg can get room cold quick) i feel that it may have been something to do with hdr signal or edid.(i use expanded on epson). Not sure if it triggered some warning ..but again this just due to my observation ..something triggered the epson to go haywire, maybe signaling from my sony x700 and stopping and going into menu home on sony..
> .since that incident ive played long 4hrs gaming and watched 4k movies via roku and 4k bluray...had no problems.. @zenoran was ur issue also watching 4k hdr content?... Coming from epson 5010, this isnt scaring me as much but if it persist, id be afriad of the refurb lottery..




Actually, I think you’re right. If I remember both times it happened when I was exiting Kodi after watching HDR content. Pretty much where it would have been doing a mode switch from HDR10 to SDR. I’ve never actually had it happen while watching anything. 

I didn’t really think much more of it when Epson was so quick to send me a replacement. Seeing as it s a refurb they are sending I will have to look closely to see if it doesn’t actually end up being an inferior unit when maybe nothing is even wrong with mine physically. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## CanadaMark

Hoping to get an opinion from you folks regarding the room I will have available for my HT - it is the basement (main area) of a new infill property, all very modern which means white (or very light) walls. I will have blackout blinds for complete lighting control, but the walls and ceiling will be white or close to it. I'm a couple months out still but I am trying to get all my ducks in a row.

My question is should I bother with the 5050 or go for a 4010 if I am going to have white walls? I understand the other differences between the two projectors and know that the 5050 is still a clearly superior unit, but I am wondering if I am going to be wasting the "UB" contrast boost with white walls/ceiling. I was thinking a grey screen material to help mitigate the issue, but I don't want to spend the $2000+ it seems to cost for a light rejecting screen. Room treatments (like velvet curtains) are not an option, unfortunately.

Thoughts? Should I just get the 5050 anyway? I am leaning that direction, but I want to make sure it isn't a complete waste (contrast-wise) with white walls/ceiling. I am waiting until September regardless in case Epson releases the rumored native 4K PJ, but that isn't very far away now!


----------



## noob00224

CanadaMark said:


> Hoping to get an opinion from you folks regarding the room I will have available for my HT - it is the basement (main area) of a new infill property, all very modern which means white (or very light) walls. I will have blackout blinds for complete lighting control, but the walls and ceiling will be white or close to it. I'm a couple months out still but I am trying to get all my ducks in a row.
> 
> My question is should I bother with the 5050 or go for a 4010 if I am going to have white walls? I understand the other differences between the two projectors and know that the 5050 is still a clearly superior unit, but I am wondering if I am going to be wasting the "UB" contrast boost with white walls/ceiling. I was thinking a grey screen material to help mitigate the issue, but I don't want to spend the $2000+ it seems to cost for a light rejecting screen. Room treatments (like velvet curtains) are not an option, unfortunately.
> 
> Thoughts? Should I just get the 5050 anyway? I am leaning that direction, but I want to make sure it isn't a complete waste (contrast-wise) with white walls/ceiling. I am waiting until September regardless in case Epson releases the rumored native 4K PJ, but that isn't very far away now!


The white walls will reduce the contrast of the 4010, not to mention the 5050.
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/
https://projectiondream.com/en/contrast-projector-environment/

Grey or ALR screens are an option, but are subpar vs a dark room with no reflections. ALR or grey screens can be found under $2K.

Painting a screen/wall with ALR properties is also possible:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/

LE: The 4010 has a 10GB HDMI chip, so no 4K HDR 60Hz, 24Hz at the most.


----------



## CanadaMark

noob00224 said:


> The white walls will reduce the contrast of the 4010, not to mention the 5050.
> https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/
> https://projectiondream.com/en/contrast-projector-environment/
> 
> Grey or ALR screens are an option, but are subpar vs a dark room with no reflections. ALR or grey screens can be found under $2K.
> 
> Painting a screen/wall with ALR properties is also possible:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/
> 
> LE: The 4010 has a 10GB HDMI chip, so no 4K HDR 60Hz, 24Hz at the most.


Thanks for your input - as mentioned I do understand the differences between the 4010 and 5050 including those surrounding the HDMI ports.

Where were you seeing ALR screens for under $2000 CAD? I am looking at 120-135" or so, fixed frame (no paint). I haven't found many that show pricing online but the ones from Screen Innovations are very expensive. If I could get one for closer to $1000 I would be OK with that. I am also having trouble finding ALR screens that aren't designed specifically for use with ultra low throw projectors. Grandview is a good Canadian screen company but their ALR screens are ultra short throw only.

Is there anyone out there with a 5050UB and white walls? I can't believe the 5050's contrast boost is only visible in a batcave, but I have been wrong before haha.

The screen I was leaning to was a 120-135" Silver Ticket, possibly in gray. Prices are $550-650 CAD. I used to buy Carada screens but they're out of business


----------



## noob00224

CanadaMark said:


> Is there anyone out there with a 5050UB and white walls? I can't believe the 5050's contrast boost is only visible in a batcave, but I have been wrong before haha.


The 2 links from projection dream above explain this phenomenon pretty thoroughly. It's the laws of physics.



CanadaMark said:


> Thanks for your input - as mentioned I do understand the differences between the 4010 and 5050 including those surrounding the HDMI ports.
> 
> Where were you seeing ALR screens for under $2000 CAD? I am looking at 120-135" or so, fixed frame (no paint). I haven't found many that show pricing online but the ones from Screen Innovations are very expensive. If I could get one for closer to $1000 I would be OK with that. I am also having trouble finding ALR screens that aren't designed specifically for use with ultra low throw projectors. Grandview is a good Canadian screen company but their ALR screens are ultra short throw only.
> 
> The screen I was leaning to was a 120-135" Silver Ticket, possibly in gray. Prices are $550-650 CAD. I used to buy Carada screens but they're out of business


It has to be mentioned that ALR screens do come with drawbacks, such as lower viewing angle, sparkle, hotspots, etc. How much depends on the screen material, the projector, the brightness and distance, no fixed formula.

Some options under $2k are:

Elite Screens Cinegrey 3D and 5D. Can be purchased in framed version.
These two are also available in a rolled up tube, just the fabric (called Designer Cut), for under $200, 135" in 16:9 format. You just have to build a frame.

Carl's ALR screen is a more aggressive fabric (than the Cinegrey 5D). They don't sell this screen in a framed option. Is similar to the Designer Cut in price and dimensions.

Des Pulsar 1.4. Fabric is just under 1k (I think), framed is around 1.5k. Up to 120" 16:9 diagonal.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2963368-my-review-dea-pulsar-screen-wow.html#post55847894

XY screens make a variety of ALR screens around and under $1K:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3005728-xyscreen-comparison-review.html

For more discussion on ALR fabrics, here is thread with a very similar setup and projector:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3064376-do-i-need-alr-grey-screen.html

LE: most ALR screens are not for short throw or UST projectors (there are special screen for those types of PJ's).


----------



## Porknz

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Me and you both buddy. I just shipped back my Chad B calibrated projector due to I guess a dust blob. I’m pretty annoyed. 4th unit I’ve had at my house.



Wondering, before I buy, if there are issues like this with my 5050UB, am I better buying somewhere local or buying online? What has the return process been like? Have you been dealing directly with EPSON? Thanks for any advice. Obviously this is worrisome as I prepare to purchase a 5050UB.


----------



## Porknz

lganz316 said:


> I never imagined I would go back to 3D after spending good amount of time and money on 4K UHD.
> 
> The 3D on this PJ is excellent. It's great to be completely immersed in 3D on big screen than being blinded by 4K HDR on smaller screens. It is so sad to see 3D being ditched by Studios.
> 
> My only issue with the 9400 / 6050 is it's motion handling in panning shots. I am okay with some telecine judder but sometimes I found it to be frustrating.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk



If the 5050UB allows 3D, is a 3D 4k media player required also? 3D would just be a nice bonus, but being that I need to purchase a media player for 4k content anyway, it would be good to know that when picking it out.


----------



## Porknz

jklow888 said:


> I had the same issue - get the framing guys to use some left over (at least) 2 inch wood slats pieces to block out between 2 (or 3) joists at your calculated mount point so you literally have a flat rectangle to mount into and can move back and forth a few inches to suit. They should use flat nail plates and some nails from the sides so it can take 25kg/55 lbs of weight. Also make sure a 2.5 inch hole is cored in the joist(s) so you can feed the HDMI cable through and more advisable, run a 2.5 inch conduit from base of wall to ceiling and use a round arc connector (not a 90 degree) so easy to feed the HDMI cable(s).
> 
> As for the mount, for my 6050/TW9400 I use the Peerless Universal (which was used on my replaced JVC) - comes with adjusters to deal with left/right pitch and forward/backward tilt as no frame and ceiling is perfectly perpendicular to every other wall. Easy slide in/out as well.



I should have been more clear. My basement is finished, but these are the type of joists I'm working with. Maybe I cut out a shape from the ceiling though and mount something under the joists as mentioned and paint it to match the ceiling color. Could I cut a piece of wood to size and drill that right into the underside of the joists? It's really working with the joists that wrecks my nerves. If it were just solid wood joists it wouldn't be an issue. I just don't know what you can and can't do with this type of joist. I don't want to make any issue for the level above by messing around with a joist.  Cables will be another story.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> I should have been more clear. My basement is finished, but these are the type of joists I'm working with. Maybe I cut out a shape from the ceiling though and mount something under the joists as mentioned and paint it to match the ceiling color. Could I cut a piece of wood to size and drill that right into the underside of the joists? It's really working with the joists that wrecks my nerves. If it were just solid wood joists it wouldn't be an issue. I just don't know what you can and can't do with this type of joist. I don't want to make any issue for the level above by messing around with a joist.  Cables will be another story.


My theater is in the basement as well and this is what I did to mount my projector.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

skylarlove1999 said:


> My theater is in the basement as well and this is what I did to mount my projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Love the metal. Looks like you have solid wood joists though correct? I'd do that in a heartbeat if I had solid wood joists, but I don't know about attaching a piece like that between these i-joists. We wanted to hang something from them for exercising (granted the body weight of a full grown adult weighs more than most projectors) and couldn't hang anything from them as they are not designed to handle weight from below, only above (or that is my understanding).


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Love the metal. Looks like you have solid wood joists though correct? I'd do that in a heartbeat if I had solid wood joists, but I don't know about attaching a piece like that between these i-joists. We wanted to hang something from them for exercising (granted the body weight of a full grown adult weighs more than most projectors) and couldn't hang anything from them as they are not designed to handle weight from below, only above (or that is my understanding).


You are correct I do have solid wood joists. I didn't see your picture so I didn't understand exactly what you meant but now that you say i-joists I do understand exactly what you mean and no I don't think I would feel comfortable hanging a projector off of The i-joist either. It might be beneficial to contact a structural engineer for a small fee to come out and take a look and see if there is any solution for you or should I say what is the best solution for your particular situation.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

Porknz said:


> If the 5050UB allows 3D, is a 4k media player required also? 3D would just be a nice bonus, but being that I need to purchase a media player for 4k content anyway, it would be good to know that when picking it out.


Most UHD players do 3D discs as well, the Panasonics certainly do.


Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## mach250

Porknz said:


> Love the metal. Looks like you have solid wood joists though correct? I'd do that in a heartbeat if I had solid wood joists, but I don't know about attaching a piece like that between these i-joists. We wanted to hang something from them for exercising (granted the body weight of a full grown adult weighs more than most projectors) and couldn't hang anything from them as they are not designed to handle weight from below, only above (or that is my understanding).



Those joists are holding up a floor or whatever's above it, I seriously doubt the short 2x4 or 6 would cause any problems.


----------



## mhutchins

Porknz said:


> .
> .
> I have i-joists, so it seems that makes it a little more difficult. Look something like these.


If you can find out the name of the manufacturer of your I-Joists, they will have engineering data available that will specify the size and location of allowable holes. Here is a link to one from Weyerhauser. Take a look at page 9.

Mike


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Porknz said:


> Wondering, before I buy, if there are issues like this with my 5050UB, am I better buying somewhere local or buying online? What has the return process been like? Have you been dealing directly with EPSON? Thanks for any advice. Obviously this is worrisome as I prepare to purchase a 5050UB.




Purchased through Magnolia at BB and got an extended warranty through them. It wasn’t a lot of money extra and covers one bulb replacement 

All warranty claims go through Epson directly.


----------



## aeneas01

zenoran said:


> So I called Epson and the lady didn’t even really ask much she said that indicates it needs replaced and offered to send a refurb. Man, this will be my 3rd protector, the first one had dust blobs. Getting annoyed with having to install, replace, calibrate and ship replacements. .


i really don't get this refurb stuff... i purchased a dell ust s718ql a while back that had probs right away (most notably a rather large white spot in the middle of the projected image (a dust glob, a cluster of dead pixels, lens flaw, still not sure) - dell's policy is they don't repair these projectors when there's an issue (since they don't make them), instead they simply replace them if still under warranty... thing is they will replace it with a refurbished projector, not a new one, if you've had it for more than 30 days - so if you discover that you have a dog after a month and a half of use, after plopping down 5k less than 60 days earlier, you get a used/open box/refurbished unit as a replacement, not a new one, not sure how that's fair?

anyway i've tried out quite a few projectors lately (dell s718ql (returned after the replacement also had probs), benq lk953st (returned), xiaomi mijia 4k (which i've decided to use in the family room)) but haven't found one that i really like for my main pj viewing.

but the 5050ub and 6050ub just recently caught my eye given their lens shifting ability - in the past i've ruled out standard throw projectors because of a load bearing beam / truss i'm forced to work with, consequently i've always gone with short throws and, recently, ultra short throws, but the more i look at the 5050 and 6050 the more i'm convinced either would work just fine.

so the question is, which one to go with? or maybe even the 5040ub or the 4010? i recently watched this vid / comparison between the 5050 and 6050, didn't help the decision process much, moreover the specs seem so close, which doesn't help much either, ha ha... guess the best thing to do is start reading from page 1 of thread...


----------



## oztheatre

aeneas01 said:


> i really don't get this refurb stuff... i purchased a dell ust s718ql a while back that had probs right away (most notably a rather large white spot in the middle of the projected image (a dust glob, a cluster of dead pixels, lens flaw, still not sure) - dell's policy is they don't repair these projectors when there's an issue (since they don't make them), instead they simply replace them if still under warranty... thing is they will replace it with refurbished projector, not a new one, if you've had it for more than 30 days - so if you discover that you have a dog after a month and a half of use, after plopping down 5k less than 60 days earlier, you get a used/open box/refurbished unit as a replacement, not a new one, not sure how that's fair?
> 
> anyway i've tried out quite a few projectors lately (dell s718ql (returned after the replacement also had probs), benq lk953st (returned), xiaomi mijia 4k (which i've decided to use in the family room)) but haven't found one that i really like for my main pj viewing.
> 
> but the 5050ub and 6050ub just recently caught my eye given it's lens shifting ability - in the past i've ruled out standard throw projectors because of a load bearing beam / truss i'm forced to work with, consequently i've always gone with short throws and, recently, ultra short throws, but the more i look at the 5050 and 6050 the more i'm convinced either would work just fine.
> 
> so the question is, which one to go with? or maybe even the 5040ub or the 4010? i recently watched this vid / comparison between the 5050 and 6050, didn't help the decision process much, moreover the specs seem so close, which doesn't help much either, ha ha... guess the best thing to do is start reading from page 1 of thread...
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wagojkX52hA


The 5050 looked out of focus somewhat? The 6050 is 'said' to have the better optics so not sure. 
Did they set the black level on both? I don't think they did, but the 6050 has higher contrast?
The 5050 is the TW8400 here in oz, not seen one not even sure if we have them here?

But their comments on the sharpness difference between the 5040 and the new models confirms what I've thought all along, it has a better lens array. Might be made in the same factory as the previous ones but looks like they've stepped up their game as the 5040UB I thought had an ordinary lens.

What is the price difference over there between the 5050 and 6050? If it's only several hundred dollars you'd like pay that just for a longer warranty? But you guys get the mount and spare bulb too right? We don't, we're convicts, we must go without haha


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Well. 

I splurged. I ordered a 5050ub.

Now on to calibration settings. I need help here big time.

Is there a set it and forget it setting that I can usd for all content? Gaming movies 1080p 4k hdr etc? Or do I need to calibrate for each and save it ?

Is there a generic calibration setting I can use and then fiddle and tweak if need be ?

138" DIY acoustic spandex ( .7 or .8 gain white)

Complete dark room

Thanks


----------



## Luminated67

Chris Corcoran said:


> Well.
> 
> I splurged. I ordered a 5050ub.
> 
> Now on to calibration settings. I need help here big time.
> 
> Is there a set it and forget it setting that I can usd for all content? Gaming movies 1080p 4k hdr etc? Or do I need to calibrate for each and save it ?
> 
> Is there a generic calibration setting I can use and then fiddle and tweak if need be ?
> 
> 138" DIY acoustic spandex ( .7 or .8 gain white)
> 
> Complete dark room
> 
> Thanks


If I were you I'd try the settings that @Alaric posted on his own website, if your room is complete light control, walls ceiling and floor then his settings would be a good start. You will have to adjust the Brightness and Contrast and possibly Iris due to the difference in screen size and screen gain.

https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home

Hope this helps.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Thanks for that, I'll put that in as a baseline and go from there

I also posted this thread but yet to get a response, maybe someone can chime in. My 5050 is scheduled to arrive today.

Hello, 

I just got a 5050UB and will be using a 138" screen.

using this calculator I inputted my diagonal data of 138" but im a bit lost on the rest. I figured I will ask the pros before I take a guess. I really dont understand the chart at the bottom ( red green yellow, and the FL/NITS ) of the projector.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

I have yet to mount the screen nor the projector, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Also, the distance given in these calculators is from the lens correct? not the actual mount anchor point?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Alaric

Luminated67 said:


> If I were you I'd try the settings that @Alaric posted on his own website, if your room is complete light control, walls ceiling and floor then his settings would be a good start. You will have to adjust the Brightness and Contrast and possibly Iris due to the difference in screen size and screen gain.
> 
> 
> 
> https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


138" and low gain will be in the higher power slot for HDR, but people with 150" screens have had good success!

Light output also varies on zoom with the closer to the screen the better, though try to have 10% wiggle room on things like that which work better with flexibility!

Arguably you could set your player to upscale everything for 4k HDR but you'll do better having multiple settings, there's a 10 slot memory function and it's quick to change and running on high power all the time will be hot and noisy and wasted.... A bit like you can drive everywhere in 1st gear, but NAH! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Thanks, so going by the logic of closer is better for brightness how close can I mount it to my 138 screen ? I may put a boarder depending if 138 is too big or not, so it would be 136 down to 132 depending if I use 1" or 3" felt around the perimeter. 

But ideally maybe bigger is better, keep the 138 and that way the cinescope movies are ad wide as they can be.

With the lense memory, it does not help me with a 16x9 screen right ? Its ment to go from a cinescope screen then change to a maxed out 16x9 based on the limitations of the cinescope screen height correct ?


----------



## MidnightWatcher

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Me and you both buddy. I just shipped back my Chad B calibrated projector due to I guess a dust blob. I’m pretty annoyed. 4th unit I’ve had at my house.


Dust blobs this early in 5050's suggests to me that Epson may be cannibalising parts from older 5040s and using them in 5050s.


----------



## Luminated67

MidnightWatcher said:


> Dust blobs this early in 5050's suggests to me that Epson may be cannibalising parts from older 5040s and using them in 5050s.


LOL 

There’s clearly very close similarities between the 5040 and 5050, that much is obvious. But please explain how dust blobs suggest your above statement.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

How can someone receive a replacement 5050 that already has dust blobs? This is what I want to know. Not saying that Epson or any manufacturing facility is cannibalising any specific part from returned 5040s for use in the 5050, but it seems odd to me that dust blobs are an issue this early in the 5050's life cycle. There needs to be a redesign or improvements with filtration to virtually eradicate the problem.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MidnightWatcher said:


> How can someone receive a replacement 5050 that already has dust blobs? This is what I want to know. Not saying that Epson or any manufacturing facility is cannibalising any specific part from returned 5040s for use in the 5050, but it seems odd to me that dust blobs are an issue this early in the 5050's life cycle. There needs to be a redesign or improvements with filtration to virtually eradicate the problem.


Unfortunately since they lightpath is not sealed, for a multitude of reasons, dust can get on the LCD panel at any time. It could happen when you only have 5 hours on the projector. You might not ever get one. Sometimes you don't even notice them. I would doubt highly they are taking apart returned or in stock 5040 models to make 5050's. That would be ineffective from a cost, time and production standpoint. You would have to take apart the 5040 and then you would have to track all the parts and where to introduce them into the production line on the 5050. It would not make any sense for Epson to do so, when they can just resell returned 5040's as "refurbished " units, even if they didn't do much to diagnose the issue for which they were returned. They knew when to stop production of the 5040 as to not have a surplus of 5040 projectors with which to sell. Dust blobs are just a result of the dust in the environment and bad luck that it got onto the LCD panel. I do feel for anyone who has gotten a dust blob so quickly. Once you see it you cannot unseen it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

Are all LCD projectors inherently subject to dust blobs or are there some that have sealed light paths?


----------



## Chris Corcoran

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07KF7CNSH?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Will this 35ft active boosted hdmi cable work without issues ? Giving me full 4k60 HDR 10?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kelvin1000 said:


> Are all LCD projectors inherently subject to dust blobs or are there some that have sealed light paths?


LCD projectors need to have cooled air over the panels therefore there is a necessity for the light path not to be sealed.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Chris Corcoran said:


> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07KF7CNSH?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
> 
> Will this 35ft active boosted hdmi cable work without issues ? Giving me full 4k60 HDR 10?


You should probably ask that on Amazon. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## aeneas01

oztheatre said:


> The 5050 looked out of focus somewhat? The 6050 is 'said' to have the better optics so not sure.


ha ha, you're spot on, in in the comments section of the video quite a few folks mentioned the same thing... in fact the reviewer with the dark beard did another comparison of his own, solo, (posted below) and apologized for the first video, saying that they must have accidentally bumped the table...

anyway, i'm still trying to decide which way to go, the 5050 or 6050, it seems that the biggest differences between the two is that with the 6050 you get the black chassis, and extra bulb, a mount, a cable cover, a longer warranty, and the warm and fuzzy feeling of knowing that it's a "pro" model available only through "select" distributors, as opposed to a "consumer" model available on amazon and your local corner store... for the additional $1k, which is the price difference between these two models, i would really like to know that the image and performance of the 6050 is clearly superior.

does anyone here happen to have personal experience with these two projectors, seen them both in action?


----------



## gibson61

Anyone who has followed EPSON over the years knows the pro models are no better then the consumer model. Your paying a extra $1000 just for the black case' and the extras parts. But don't expect some killer improvement in performance.


----------



## MGBPUFF

gibson61 said:


> Anyone who has followed EPSON over the years knows the pro models are no better then the consumer model. Your paying a extra $1000 just for the black case' and the extras parts. But don't expect some killer improvement in performance.


I have read from multiple sources that Epson does a higher level specification sort of the parts that go into the 6050UB vs the 5050UB. Same parts, just the best of those parts!


----------



## skylarlove1999

gibson61 said:


> Anyone who has followed EPSON over the years knows the pro models are no better then the consumer model. Your paying a extra $1000 just for the black case' and the extras parts. But don't expect some killer improvement in performance.


Having own both a 5050 and a 6050 and having the 6050 still in my home theater I can say there is a appreciable difference in Black levels contrast and sharpness between the two models. Is it worth the thousand dollars? When you factor in the extra year of warranty and if you need a mount and having an extra lamp I would say that it is worth it. But I had issues with three different 5040 models that's why extra year of warranty is worth it to me. The mount that it comes with was a significant upgrade for me so that made it more advantageous. The lamp is worth what it is. But in terms of the actual performance of the projector there is a notable difference in the items I mentioned. The contrast ratio for the 5050 is 1 million to 1 the contrast ratio for the 6050 is 1.2 million to one. If you do not need the extra Mount and lamp I think you would be very happy with 5050. I would call around to dealers for the 6050 you can get significantly less than manufacturer suggested retail price.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## aeneas01

skylarlove1999 said:


> Having own both a 5050 and a 6050 and having the 6050 still in my home theater I can say there is a appreciable difference in Black levels contrast and sharpness between the two models. Is it worth the thousand dollars? When you factor in the extra year of warranty and if you need a mount and having an extra lamp I would say that it is worth it. But I had issues with three different 5040 models that's why extra year of warranty is worth it to me. The mount that it comes with was a significant upgrade for me so that made it more advantageous. The lamp is worth what it is. But in terms of the actual performance of the projector there is a notable difference in the items I mentioned. The contrast ratio for the 5050 is 1 million to 1 the contrast ratio for the 6050 is 1.2 million to one. If you do not need the extra Mount and lamp I think you would be very happy with 5050. I would call around to dealers for the 6050 you can get significantly less than manufacturer suggested retail price.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


very helpful, thanks!

so what non-acoustic screen are most using with their 5050/6050, white or alr?


----------



## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> very helpful, thanks!
> 
> so what non-acoustic screen are most using with their 5050/6050, white or alr?


I think your choice of screen is mostly dependent upon your viewing environment and your ability to cut down on ambient light. Obvious if you have a good degree of ambient light and if you have a room that reflects light back onto your screen an ambient light reflecting screen could significantly increase your black levels and your picture quality. You would be sacrificing some color accuracy obviously with a gray screen. I am using a Seymour glacier white 120 inch screen rated at 1.3 game and I am thrilled with the combination but keep in mind my room for the first 15 ft from the screen back to my seating area is Black Velvet on the side walls and on the ceiling

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

aeneas01 said:


> very helpful, thanks!
> 
> so what non-acoustic screen are most using with their 5050/6050, white or alr?


This really depends on the room rather than the projector, if you have a fully light controlled room with dark walls/ceiling (preferrably velvet/velour covered) then a white screen is the proper choice but if you have light walls and a bit of ambient light then the only option is an ALR screen.


----------



## aeneas01

thanks for the replies regarding the screens... i've used both in the past but was never particularly thrilled with the alr because to my eye it diminished brightness, pop, and color accuracy too much - the trade off for ambient light use just didn't seem like enough of reason to use it... but i thought that with the 5050/6050 brightness (lumens) it might not be as much of a prob, and that maybe 5050/6050 owners favored alr's because of that... anyway, i still have both, will just give them a try and see what looks best.

btw, i went ahead and just now ordered the 6050, the decision was made much easier given the place i ordered it from offered a price that was considerably less than the prices i had been seeing around the net, including the magnolia / best buy price, (18% lower), plus shipping was free and no state sales tax, they said it was in stock and would ship today.


----------



## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> thanks for the replies regarding the screens... i've used both in the past but was never particularly thrilled with the alr because to my eye it diminished brightness, pop, and color accuracy too much - the trade off for ambient light use just didn't seem like enough of reason to use it... but i thought that with the 5050/6050 brightness (lumens) it might not be as much of a prob, and that maybe 5050/6050 owners favored alr's because of that... anyway, i still have both, will just give them a try and see what looks best.
> 
> btw, i went ahead and just now ordered the 6050, the decision was made much easier given the place i ordered it from offered a price that was considerably less than the prices i had been seeing around the net, including the magnolia / best buy price, (18% lower), plus shipping was free and no state sales tax, they said it was in stock and would ship today.


Another satisfied Dream Media Home Theater customer I assume? Those guys are great.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dimi123

oztheatre said:


> But their comments on the sharpness difference between the 5040 and the new models confirms what I've thought all along, it has a better lens array. Might be made in the same factory as the previous ones but looks like they've stepped up their game as the 5040UB I thought had an ordinary lens.


The 5040, 6040, 5050 and 6050 all have the same Fujinon glass lens:

"Epson has carried over the high quality 16-element/15-glass element powered lens used in the Pro Cinema 6040, with the same wide-range setup capabilities: 2.1x zoom; +/- 96% vertical, +/- 47% horizontal lens shift."


----------



## skylarlove1999

dimi123 said:


> The 5040, 6040, 5050 and 6050 all have the same Fujinon glass lens:
> 
> 
> 
> "Epson has carried over the high quality 16-element/15-glass element powered lens used in the Pro Cinema 6040, with the same wide-range setup capabilities: 2.1x zoom; +/- 96% vertical, +/- 47% horizontal lens shift."


I appreciate you quoting something from Epson. Having attended the unveiling of the Epson 6050 in New York City that was sponsored by Epson and AVS forum we had a lot of time to ask questions from the engineer's who designed the product line who are flown in from Japan. Also in attendance was Rodrigo Catalan the product manager for North America who unequivocally stated that they do go through the elements including the Glass lens for the projector and handpick the best for the 6050.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## sirius_basterd

I'm truly torn about whether to get this projector, since it seems to be the only one on the market offering >2000 lumens and 4k/HDR in high quality.


My use case is a living room with moderate light control - and I really don't want to get an ALR screen, I can't stand the uneven brightness and color distortions. I'm working on improving the light control but it's never going to be that great. Of course at night it gets super dark! Mostly streaming video, sometimes blu-rays, frequently PS4 Pro.


Is it worth shelling out the money for this or should I get instead a really bright 1080p projector for a lot less? (and wait a few more years for native 4K to come down in cost and up in brightness?) Of course it's also really hard to find a good 1080p projector, there are soooooo many models...


----------



## Luminated67

Prior to Gordon coming to calibrate my TW9400 (6050) I was considering changing my white screen and replacing it with either a high contrast grey or ALR, his simple reply was if you’ve a light controlled room you only buy a white screen and stick closely to 1.0 gain, mine is 1.1. All others compromise picture quality in one way or another, but if the room ambience requires then these are the only solution.


----------



## bdht

sirius_basterd said:


> My use case is a living room with moderate light control - and I really don't want to get an ALR screen, I can't stand the uneven brightness and color distortions.


There are a few ALR screens woth good viewing angles, horizontally at least. The Da-Lite Parallax/DNP Supernova .8 gain, EPV Darkstar9, and XY Screens Black Crystal. Theyll shift the contrast down and preserve blacks better than a white acreen in a room that doesnt absorb reflections. The parallax is artifact free and expensive while the black crystal has some sparkle but his an 8th the price.


----------



## aeneas01

skylarlove1999 said:


> Another satisfied Dream Media Home Theater customer I assume? Those guys are great.


----------



## zenoran

skylarlove1999 said:


> Another satisfied Dream Media Home Theater customer I assume? Those guys are great.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




I drove by their van in my hood this morning it was surreal. Home theatre celebrities lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## zenoran

Does anyone have any experience with the return/refurb process regarding the bulb? Will they overlook receiving the return unit without the bulb or will they bill u for it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

Anyone getting random black screens from signal drops using RuiPro Fiber Optic cables? My cable is 33 feet.

It’s happening on AppleTV 4K (with and without HDR) and also on Comcast so I assume it’s neither.

I have a Marantz SR5011 receiver and I also also tried a Pioneer Elite 503 trying to identify the problem but both receiver had the same random results.

I swapped the cables from the devices to the receivers and used both the ARC and Non ARC inputs on the projector and the receivers. Turned off CEC on all devices as well.

I also tried a 5V power adapter on both ends of the RuiPro cable and still no luck.

Waiting on a Monoprice Fiber Optic cable to see if that fixes the problem but I’m at a loss unless there is something wrong with the projector HDMI board...


----------



## aeneas01

Kelvin1000 said:


> Anyone getting random black screens from signal drops using RuiPro Fiber Optic cables? My cable is 33 feet.


purchased the identical cable from amazon, didn't work, thank goodness for their no-fuss return policy, ended up going with the bifale from amazon, works fine... that said, i'm sure the ruipro is a great cable, lots of folks swear by them, just didn't work for me...


----------



## aeneas01

zenoran said:


> I drove by their van in my hood this morning it was surreal. Home theatre celebrities lol


i actually stumbled across them using google, never heard of them before, they were one of the first businesses to pop up when i searched for where to buy a 6050... called them at 9am dallas time, right when they opened, spoke to a very nice assistant then a guy named zach, 10 minutes later my purchase was done... funny, i then googled reviews for their business, which led me to yelp, where they have 62 reviews of which 60 are 5-star, not an easy thing to accomplish on yelp... interestingly "zach's" name was mentioned quite a bit in the yelp reviews, along with another guy, his brother i think, apparently they don't only run the store but also do their own installs and ht consulting, seem like a couple of very busy guys who know how to take care of biz.


----------



## mach250

aeneas01 said:


> i actually stumbled across them using google, never heard of them before, they were one of the first businesses to pop up when i searched for where to buy a 6050... called them at 9am dallas time, right when they opened, spoke to a very nice assistant then a guy named zach, 10 minutes later my purchase was done... funny, i then googled reviews for their business, which led me to yelp, where they have 62 reviews of which 60 are 5-star, not an easy thing to accomplish on yelp... interestingly "zach's" name was mentioned quite a bit in the yelp reviews, along with another guy, his brother i think, apparently they don't only run the store but also do their own installs and ht consulting, seem like a couple of very busy guys who know how to take care of biz.



They're on youtube as well which is where I found them originally. Ordered my 6050 from them a couple days ago and should have it monday.


----------



## madrac

skylarlove1999 said:


> Another satisfied Dream Media Home Theater customer I assume? Those guys are great.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Is this them?




https://dreamediaav.com/


----------



## aeneas01

mach250 said:


> They're on youtube as well which is where I found them originally. Ordered my 6050 from them a couple days ago and should have it monday.


funny you should mention this.. i posted a youtube 5050/6050 comparison vid earlier in this thread when i was debating which one to go with, before i made the decision to go with the 6050, and didn't realize that at least one of the guys in the vid was the dude from dream media, in fact he was the guy i spoke with today, who took my order, since then i've seen him in lots of youtube vids, turns out he's pretty darn prolific in terms of posting ht youtube vids.


----------



## skylarlove1999

madrac said:


> Is this them?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://dreamediaav.com/


Absolutely. Great guys and great prices.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

The projector also has a feature that may be worth testing to see if it solves the random HDMI blackout screens and handshake issues:

Settings —> HDMI Link —> Link Buffer

Not sure what this changes or if it has any negative side effects...


----------



## oztheatre

skylarlove1999 said:


> I appreciate you quoting something from Epson. Having attended the unveiling of the Epson 6050 in New York City that was sponsored by Epson and AVS forum we had a lot of time to ask questions from the engineer's who designed the product line who are flown in from Japan. Also in attendance was Rodrigo Catalan the product manager for North America who unequivocally stated that they do go through the elements including the Glass lens for the projector and handpick the best for the 6050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That was it! thank you mate. I've read this before, maybe you posted it before. And yes there is a difference as I've had the 5040 and now the 6050 and the 6050 lens is quite a step up in quality/clarity. FIRST thing I noticed and I'm a 'lens guy' when it comes to projectors. I've had stacks of projectors over the past 15 years or thereabouts and the 6050 is in my top 3 favorite machines. A good quality lens is always a welcome addition to a great bang for buck PJ. 

The question is though, why aren't Epson putting this in the marketing material? People think they're telling fibs? Makes the 5050 look inferior? Who knows.


----------



## skylarlove1999

oztheatre said:


> That was it! thank you mate. I've read this before, maybe you posted it before. And yes there is a difference as I've had the 5040 and now the 6050 and the 6050 lens is quite a step up in quality/clarity. FIRST thing I noticed and I'm a 'lens guy' when it comes to projectors. I've had stacks of projectors over the past 15 years or thereabouts and the 6050 is in my top 3 favorite machines. A good quality lens is always a welcome addition to a great bang for buck PJ.
> 
> 
> 
> The question is though, why aren't Epson putting this in the marketing material? People think they're telling fibs? Makes the 5050 look inferior? Who knows.


I think you are entirely right they don't want people who were paying that much for the 5050 to think that they could be getting a better projector if Epson just gave them the better lens and the better quality parts. No matter how much you get it right about all the other internal parts if you don't put in a great lens you're wasting all the other technology upgrades in the actual projector. The lens is actually the most important piece in my humble opinion so I totally agree with you. And yes I have posted it quite a few times glad you are able to notice the difference as was I. The 5050 is still an outstanding projector but there is a noticeable difference and upgrade to the 6050

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## mach250

aeneas01 said:


> funny you should mention this.. i posted a youtube 5050/6050 comparison vid earlier in this thread when i was debating which one to go with, before i made the decision to go with the 6050, and didn't realize that at least one of the guys in the vid was the dude from dream media, in fact he was the guy i spoke with today, who took my order, since then i've seen him in lots of youtube vids, turns out he's pretty darn prolific in terms of posting ht youtube vids.





Yeah, its been nothing but positive dealing with them so far. Need to watch my budget but I'd continue dealing with them, plus seeing how they work on youtube gives you a good feeling about their company as well.


----------



## skylarlove1999

mach250 said:


> Yeah, its been nothing but positive dealing with them so far. Need to watch my budget but I'd continue dealing with them, plus seeing how they work on youtube gives you a good feeling about their company as well.


I don't know if you are familiar with the YouTube personality called that home theater dude but he is actually the one who edits the videos for dream media home theater. I enjoy both their channels and they seem to be very professional and do a good job with installations

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## mach250

skylarlove1999 said:


> I don't know if you are familiar with the YouTube personality called that home theater dude but he is actually the one who edits the videos for dream media home theater. I enjoy both their channels and they seem to be very professional and do a good job with installations
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Yeah hes got some good vids too, I need to get in on this equipment tester on youtube to get some free stuff hehehe


----------



## crossrh

Just ordered a 6050 from Dreamedia.
One review I saw said the unit had an ISF Calibration sticker on the side. Not sure if that means it's already calibrated, or that it can be calibrated to ISF standards.
Any thoughts?


----------



## skylarlove1999

crossrh said:


> Just ordered a 6050 from Dreamedia.
> 
> One review I saw said the unit had an ISF Calibration sticker on the side. Not sure if that means it's already calibrated, or that it can be calibrated to ISF standards.
> 
> Any thoughts?


It can be calibrated. It wouldn't make any sense to calibrate a projector before you send it out because you have no idea what screen is going to be used or what the ambient light conditions and the reflective conditions of the room are going to be. The only time I have heard of projectors being calibrated before they're sent out is when you buy a screen at the same time. The only company I know who is doing that and it's with JVC new true 4K lineup is Seymour out of Iowa.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## crossrh

Thanks, Skylar. I'll start with Alaric's settings, and maybe schedule with Jeff Meier at accucalav.com during his run through Texas next February.
My theater is completely light-controlled, like his, so his settings should be pretty close. I am a little concerned about his use of High lamp power on all three of his settings. I'd like to use medium or even Eco, for both the fan noise and the lamp life.
I'm coming from a Sony HW40ES, which still works fine.


----------



## skylarlove1999

crossrh said:


> Thanks, Skylar. I'll start with Alaric's settings, and maybe schedule with Jeff Meier at accucalav.com during his run through Texas next February.
> 
> My theater is completely light-controlled, like his, so his settings should be pretty close. I am a little concerned about his use of High lamp power on all three of his settings. I'd like to use medium or even Eco, for both the fan noise and the lamp life.
> 
> I'm coming from a Sony HW40ES, which still works fine.


I believe Alaric SDR setting which I use in my blacked out velvet basement theater is actually using Eco for the lamp. I had Jeff Meier calibrate my 5040 in November of 2018 and I highly recommend him. He spent the basically the whole day with me doing audio and video and explaining everything he was doing. I thought the video was going to make the most difference which it did but the calibration he did for my audio blew me away. He made my theater sound better than my local Cineplex.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## mhutchins

Chris Corcoran said:


> Thanks for that, I'll put that in as a baseline and go from there
> 
> I also posted this thread but yet to get a response, maybe someone can chime in. My 5050 is scheduled to arrive today.
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I just got a 5050UB and will be using a 138" screen.
> 
> using this calculator I inputted my diagonal data of 138" but im a bit lost on the rest. I figured I will ask the pros before I take a guess. I really dont understand the chart at the bottom ( red green yellow, and the FL/NITS ) of the projector.
> The recommended brightness target for traditional movie theater projection (not HDR) is 14FL (foot lamberts). The target brightness for Dolby Cinema projection is 31FL which corresponds to 106 Nits. By comparison, the Dolby Vision brightness target for a flat panel display is 1000 Nits. The gain and size of your screen as well as the light output of the projector will determine the brightness of the final image. Be advised that most of these calculators use the manufacturers reported maximum light output to calculate image brightness. Oftentimes, projector calibration will knockdown max brightnes by 20-30%. Also, the chosen projector mode will decrease light output. For example, engaging the cinema filter to achieve 100% of the P3 color gamut will decrease light output from 30-50%! Bottom line - to achieve Dolby Cinema brightness for HDR movies will likely require high lamp mode whereas non-HDR movies can probably be projected using normal or eco lamp modes.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> I have yet to mount the screen nor the projector, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Also, the distance given in these calculators is from the lens correct? not the actual mount anchor point?
> Distance is measured from the lens to the screen. The calculator reports a range of mounting distances between 13'6" to 28'5". A 15' mounting distance should work well with minimal dropoff in light output.
> 
> Thanks in advance


Mike


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



aeneas01 said:


> purchased the identical cable from amazon, didn't work, thank goodness for their no-fuss return policy, ended up going with the bifale from amazon, works fine... that said, i'm sure the ruipro is a great cable, lots of folks swear by them, just didn't work for me...


I just ordered this BJC Series-3A Active HDMI Cable to see if if gets rid of the random blackouts:

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm


----------



## BIC2

Anybody with experience on the following 5050 setup? Complete light controlled dedicated theater. Looking at an AT scope screen with a width of 135 - 145 inches (57 - 62 h), viewing distance of 11 - 12 ft. Throw distance is flexible. If you have these sizes, do you achieve excellent brightness for UHD? What kind of screen do you have? I'm guessing I need gain around 1.0. Thanks.


----------



## mach250

BIC2 said:


> Anybody with experience on the following 5050 setup? Complete light controlled dedicated theater. Looking at an AT scope screen with a width of 135 - 145 inches (57 - 62 h), viewing distance of 11 - 12 ft. Throw distance is flexible. If you have these sizes, do you achieve excellent brightness for UHD? What kind of screen do you have? I'm guessing I need gain around 1.0. Thanks.



I've read that you should get a 1.0 gain fabric if you have a light controlled environment.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

I'm paranoid about dust for my new very expensive 5050.

What maintenance should I be doing ? Any available dust coveres ? Blow dust off the unit with compressed air ? I'll wait for advice before doing anything.

Thanks !


----------



## Luminated67

Chris Corcoran said:


> I'm paranoid about dust for my new very expensive 5050.
> 
> What maintenance should I be doing ? Any available dust coveres ? Blow dust off the unit with compressed air ? I'll wait for advice before doing anything.
> 
> Thanks !


Obviously dust is coming from the environment the projector is in so it's always best to try and reduce the risk through renewing the air-con filters if you have one and vacuuming instead of brushing when cleaning the floor etc.


----------



## Nexgen76

Chris Corcoran said:


> I'm paranoid about dust for my new very expensive 5050.
> 
> 
> 
> What maintenance should I be doing ? Any available dust coveres ? Blow dust off the unit with compressed air ? I'll wait for advice before doing anything.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks !


I would suggest getting a air purifier for your theater room.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



Kelvin1000 said:


> I just ordered this BJC Series-3A Active HDMI Cable to see if if gets rid of the random blackouts:
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm


Same random blackout problems with the Monoprice fiber optic cable. 

Back to the drawing board...


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kelvin1000 said:


> Same random blackout problems with the Monoprice fiber optic cable.
> 
> Back to the drawing board...


https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-FURUI-H...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I and some other members of the forum have had great success with this cable. Pricey but worth it IMHO. Passes a great signal from my Denon 6500 to my Epson 6050. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



skylarlove1999 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-FURUI-H...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
> 
> I and some other members of the forum have had great success with this cable. Pricey but worth it IMHO. Passes a great signal from my Denon 6500 to my Epson 6050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Thank you, but that’s the original cable that I was using which is able to display all signals but causes random blackout screens with this projector on 1080p, 4K and HDR.

The occurrences are totally random but it happens often (sometimes several times throughout a movie).

Only regular non fiber optic HDMI cables work without blackouts...


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kelvin1000 said:


> Thank you, but that’s the original cable that I was using which is able to display all signals but causes random blackout screens with this projector on 1080p, 4K and HDR.
> 
> The occurrences are totally random but it happens often (sometimes several times throughout a movie).
> 
> Only regular non fiber optic HDMI cables work without blackouts...


Have you tried running any of the cables directly from source to projector bypassing the receiver? It would help clarify whether the issue is with the receiver, source projector or the cable. I know it is frustrating. Stating that only non-fiber HDMI cables can be used without blackouts as a general observation is a false and misleading statement. It is just not true. Your particular setup has been having video playback blackouts regardless of the cable being used. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## gibson61

I found out over the years that going straight from the player to the projector is the best way ' never had a black out ever. Now the BD player needs 2 HDMI outs ' so one can go to the Receiver for sound.


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



skylarlove1999 said:


> Have you tried running any of the cables directly from source to projector bypassing the receiver? It would help clarify whether the issue is with the receiver, source projector or the cable. I know it is frustrating. Stating that only non-fiber HDMI cables can be used without blackouts as a general observation is a false and misleading statement. It is just not true. Your particular setup has been having video playback blackouts regardless of the cable being used.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



My apologies if I did not express myself correctly. I am in no way implying that fiber optic HDMI cables don’t work. I am simply stating that after having exhausted many possibilities, my particular setup only works reliably with standard HDMI cables.

If you take a look at my original post below, you will notice that I have tried many different methods trying to identify the problem. 

It is also possible that the projector HDMI circuitry is the culprit, but I am going to try another Active HDMI cable from BJC to see if that makes a difference:










I will post my findings upon further testing.

Thanks to all!

THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh.../forum/showthread.php?p=58403966&share_type=t


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kelvin1000 said:


> My apologies if I did not express myself correctly. I am in no way implying that fiber optic HDMI cables don’t work. I am simply stating that after having exhausted many possibilities, my particular setup only works reliably with standard HDMI cables.
> 
> If you take a look at my original post below, you will notice that I have tried many different methods trying to identify the problem. It is possible that the projector HDMI circuitry is the culprit, but I am going to try one more HDMI powered HDMI cable from BJC to see if that makes a difference.
> 
> I will post my findings upon further testing.
> 
> Thanks to all!
> 
> THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread
> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh.../forum/showthread.php?p=58403966&share_type=t


Thanks for clarifying. I just wanted other forum members to know that Fiber Optic HDMI cables do work .The link I sent was for the fiber optic Furui cable through Amazon not Ruipro. I am sorry you are having such difficulty. I assume you have tried using HDMI 2 on the projector and different HDMI outputs on your receiver if available. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



skylarlove1999 said:


> Thanks for clarifying. I just wanted other forum members to know that Fiber Optic HDMI cables do work .The link I sent was for the fiber optic Furui cable through Amazon not Ruipro. I am sorry you are having such difficulty. I assume you have tried using HDMI 2 on the projector and different HDMI outputs on your receiver if available.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Yes, I have tried HDMI 2 and various combinations on both the projector and two different receivers. I also tried 5V power adapters. In addition, I made sure to turn off the ARC and CEC functions on all the electronics for good measure.

This process is like trying to find the source of that little noise that your car is making which “can’t be replicated” by the dealer.

I will keep trying until I find a solution.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kelvin1000 said:


> Yes, I have tried HDMI 2 and various combinations on both the projector and two different receivers. I also tried 5V power adapters. In addition, I made sure to turn off the ARC and CEC functions on all the electronics for good measure.
> 
> This process is like trying to find the source of that little noise that your car is making which “can’t be replicated” by the dealer.
> 
> I will keep trying until I find a solution.


Does running directly from source to projector work for any of the cables? I agree with your automobile analogy. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MinHeadroom

Has anybody made a hush box for this pj? I plan to make one for noise/ aesthetics/ air filtering. Fans will be temp controlled. Glass will be optical and tilted to 10 degrees. The front intake/ exhaust fans are a little tricky for designing a good airflow path.


----------



## sirius_basterd

Are there alternative ceiling mounts to the Epson CHF4000/45000 that people like for the Epson 5050ub? Ones that lock so you don't accidentally move it when you press the power button etc? And that give you confidence it won't fall on your head?


----------



## Kelvin1000

sirius_basterd said:


> Are there alternative ceiling mounts to the Epson CHF4000/45000 that people like for the Epson 5050ub? Ones that lock so you don't accidentally move it when you press the power button etc? And that give you confidence it won't fall on your head?



Chief RPAU RPA Universal & Custom Ceiling Projector Mounts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EN18D2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_voivDbHV8YDN2


----------



## BIC2

sirius_basterd said:


> Are there alternative ceiling mounts to the Epson CHF4000/45000 that people like for the Epson 5050ub? Ones that lock so you don't accidentally move it when you press the power button etc? And that give you confidence it won't fall on your head?


Is this the same as the one that comes with the 6050 or does it come with Epson Universal Projector Ceiling Mount Kit (ELPMBPJG). This includes a 3" extension bar. Do they make a 1 ft or preferably 2+ ft extension? I have a 10 ft ceiling. Thanks.


----------



## reechings

Thinking about picking up the 6050 and wondering about screens. I know this isn't a screen thread but was just wondering what people think about Elunevision Reference 4K regular fixed frame vs Reference 4K Slim Frame vs Elara fixed frame. I am looking at 135" 16:9 screen size, sitting about 13-14 ft away. Thanks and sorry for random jumping in!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Thinking about picking up the 6050 and wondering about screens. I know this isn't a screen thread but was just wondering what people think about Elunevision Reference 4K regular fixed frame vs Reference 4K Slim Frame vs Elara fixed frame. I am looking at 135" 16:9 screen size, sitting about 13-14 ft away. Thanks and sorry for random jumping in!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I would prefer the regular fixed frame for any projector overshoot. The Elunevision Reference 4k screen is very comparable to the much more expensive reference standard Stewart StudioTek 100. It is an amazing screen for a light controlled blacked out velvet dedicated home theater. If this is not your viewing environment you need to look at some other screens. Ambient lighting and reflections from the ceiling, sidewalls and to a lesser degree the floor can significantly impact the image on your chosen screen. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> I would prefer the regular fixed frame for any projector overshoot. The Elunevision Reference 4k screen is very comparable to the much more expensive reference standard Stewart StudioTek 100. It is an amazing screen for a light controlled blacked out velvet dedicated home theater. If this is not your viewing environment you need to look at some other screens. Ambient lighting and reflections from the ceiling, sidewalls and to a lesser degree the floor can significantly impact the image on your chosen screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the input, I did like the smaller border that still gives you a little overshoot but looks a little cleaner. I'm guessing the Elara screen is a pretty big step down from the reference 4k because of the price. My room is light controlled but not hard core black velveted everywhere.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Blu-Boy in BKK

Thanks to advice from Luminated67 I purchased 10 metres of self adhesive Black Velour cloth and attached it to the walls surrounding my screen. I also stuck it to my ceiling. Wow, what a huge difference it made.


----------



## reechings

Blu-Boy in BKK said:


> Thanks to advice from Luminated67 I purchased 10 metres of self adhesive Black Velour cloth and attached it to the walls surrounding my screen. I also stuck it to my ceiling. Wow, what a huge difference it made.


Hmmm, was thinking of painting my ceiling but maybe I should try that instead.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

reechings said:


> Hmmm, was thinking of painting my ceiling but maybe I should try that instead.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Paint can't come close to the non reflective qualities of this flock velour, on my ceiling I had a white heat recovery vent close to the screen which was white and my down spotlights were brushed stainless steel, I covered these in the flock and unless you were directly under the vent you wouldn't be able to see it. It's amazing how when something is completely non reflective masked it's shape.


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Hmmm, was thinking of painting my ceiling but maybe I should try that instead.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


If you are unable to put up the velvet/flocking you might want to at least consider a higher gain screen or an ALR(ambient light rejecting) screen otherwise known as a gray screen. You could also consider this very specific reflectance minimizing paint from Rosco. 

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/108025-REG/Rosco_150057400128_TV_Paint_Black.html

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## teachsac

*Posts removed. Deal's talk, where to buy, and retail links are not permitted outside of the deal's area.*

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...price-talk-where-buy-outside-deals-forum.html


----------



## BIC2

Called Epson. The mount included with the 6050 is the Chief CHF4500. Chief makes various extension columns for it.

I have a 10 ft ceiling. Top of screen about 7 ft off floor.

Even though there is lens shift to compensate, would it still be preferable to spend $120 for a 2-3 ft adjustable mount extension to minimize lens shift? Thanks.


----------



## reechings

So right now I can get the 6050UB or the JVC X790R for the same price. I am leaning towards the 6050 as it sounds like it is brighter if you're not going to use the digital cinema filter and it is supposed to have a nice HDR pop. It is also nice that it comes with a mount and an extra bulb. From my research it sounds like the JVC may have better blacks if you have the theatre room completely blacked out. This is tempting as I do like sci-fi and dark shows like game of thrones. That being said I am kind of tired of always having to have every single light turned off when I want to watch some sports or just regular TV shows. Is anybody here using the 5050/6050 with some light in the room, maybe some pot lights along the sides etc. and does it work well still? Any thoughts on the JVC? (I know which thread I'm in lol)

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## aeneas01

BIC2 said:


> Called Epson. The mount included with the 6050 is the Chief CHF4500. Chief makes various extension columns for it.
> 
> I have a 10 ft ceiling. Top of screen about 7 ft off floor.
> 
> Even though there is lens shift to compensate, would it still be preferable to spend $120 for a 2-3 ft adjustable mount extension to minimize lens shift? Thanks.


the 6050ub's lens shift capabilitiy was a huge selling point for me, it gives you a lot of installation options... in your case you would be dealing with vertical shifting, which the 6050 is able to do to the tune of 70%+ up or down (depending on distance), in other words you have a lot to work with... personally i would just mount it close to the ceiling using the supplied post and shift... also, the posts, from what i can tell, are standard piping which can be custom sized, threaded and purchased at your local hardware store... re shifting, fwiw i spoke to an epson tech support guy about shifting before i purchased the pj given i intended to use shifting, the guy i spoke to was no-nonsense and very knowledgeable, said that the shifting on these pj's was excellent and did not diminish image quality... my pj just arrived today, i'll probably get a chance to check it out before the weekend, and will definitely see if what the tech guy said was true!


----------



## aeneas01

reechings said:


> So right now I can get the 6050UB or the JVC X790R for the same price. I am leaning towards the 6050 as it sounds like it is brighter if you're not going to use the digital cinema filter and it is supposed to have a nice HDR pop. It is also nice that it comes with a mount and an extra bulb. From my research it sounds like the JVC may have better blacks if you have the theatre room completely blacked out. This is tempting as I do like sci-fi and dark shows like game of thrones. That being said I am kind of tired of always having to have every single light turned off when I want to watch some sports or just regular TV shows. Is anybody here using the 5050/6050 with some light in the room, maybe some pot lights along the sides etc. and does it work well still? Any thoughts on the JVC? (I know which thread I'm in lol)
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


i intend to use the 6050 in moderate ambient light, have a white screen and an alr screen to test it with, i'll take shots of what it looks like in ambient light when i get it set up.


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> So right now I can get the 6050UB or the JVC X790R for the same price. I am leaning towards the 6050 as it sounds like it is brighter if you're not going to use the digital cinema filter and it is supposed to have a nice HDR pop. It is also nice that it comes with a mount and an extra bulb. From my research it sounds like the JVC may have better blacks if you have the theatre room completely blacked out. This is tempting as I do like sci-fi and dark shows like game of thrones. That being said I am kind of tired of always having to have every single light turned off when I want to watch some sports or just regular TV shows. Is anybody here using the 5050/6050 with some light in the room, maybe some pot lights along the sides etc. and does it work well still? Any thoughts on the JVC? (I know which thread I'm in lol)
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I have some pot lights. For sports viewing I can have the 3 pots light on dim about 12 ft back from the screen with negligible impact on the viewing experience. I have a 1.3 gain 120 inch Seymour Seymour Glacier White screen with black out velvet on ceiling and sidewalls back to main viewing position at 13 ft. I use the Cinema Filter with high lamp using @Alaric settings . I get some great HDR pop. I prefer movies with all lights off. Pictures don't really do it justice.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

Thanks for the replies,I look forward to seeing what it looks like. Sounds like only a little bit of light is OK with the 6050 so would probably be a no go with the JVC. 

On a side note a refurb 5040 is on for only $1500 CDN which is tempting but I think all the fooling around with HDMI bandwidth issues would get annoying quickly.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

reechings said:


> So right now I can get the 6050UB or the JVC X790R for the same price. I am leaning towards the 6050 as it sounds like it is brighter if you're not going to use the digital cinema filter and it is supposed to have a nice HDR pop. It is also nice that it comes with a mount and an extra bulb. From my research it sounds like the JVC may have better blacks if you have the theatre room completely blacked out. This is tempting as I do like sci-fi and dark shows like game of thrones. That being said I am kind of tired of always having to have every single light turned off when I want to watch some sports or just regular TV shows. Is anybody here using the 5050/6050 with some light in the room, maybe some pot lights along the sides etc. and does it work well still? Any thoughts on the JVC? (I know which thread I'm in lol)
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


For that application it's a tough call. I had a JVC RS520 (which is essentially the same projector) and have seen 5050UB (finally got around to demoing it) and several 5040UBs.

The Epson is definitely going to have more usable brightness for a situation where there are lights on. The tone controls for HDR on the new Epson models is better than what the JVC has. The Epson has less expensive bulbs.

The JVC has better optics. The contrast and black floor will be much darker than the Epson (4000-6000:1 native vs. 35,000-40,000:1 native). The color filter on the JVC (which I prefer) doesn't have the lumen hit it does on the Epson, so full P3 coverage is attainable on a moderately sized screen with good brightness (the JVC still has about 1200-1400 calibrated lumens with filter). The JVC will have slightly better motion handling and a smoother more film like look due to the LCoS panels vs. LCD. 

If you don't have a room where you'll be able to appreciate the contrast difference (white walls, light pollution, etc) of the JVC and do watch a lot of content with the lights on, the Epson is a very compelling option. If you do have a well light controlled room and find yourself watching a lot of movies with the lights out, the JVC is going to be tough to beat. Though to get the most out of the JVC with 4K/HDR it will require fiddling with their tone controls or pairing it with something like the Panasonic UB820. Definitely not as smooth or easy as the new Epson implementation. 

Both projectors have lens memory and generous lens shift. Both are 1080 panels being shifted for extra resolution. So no advantage either way.

So in conclusion, for viewing with the lights on, a very large screen (150+") or a room that won't show the contrast advantages the Epson is an excellent choice. If you watch a lot of movies and have a room that will allow you to appreciate the differences in contrast the JVC is going to put up a picture few projectors will beat.


----------



## reechings

jeahrens said:


> For that application it's a tough call. I had a JVC RS520 (which is essentially the same projector) and have seen 5050UB (finally got around to demoing it) and several 5040UBs.
> 
> 
> 
> The Epson is definitely going to have more usable brightness for a situation where there are lights on. The tone controls for HDR on the new Epson models is better than what the JVC has. The Epson has less expensive bulbs.
> 
> 
> 
> The JVC has better optics. The contrast and black floor will be much darker than the Epson (4000-6000:1 native vs. 35,000-40,000:1 native). The color filter on the JVC (which I prefer) doesn't have the lumen hit it does on the Epson, so full P3 coverage is attainable on a moderately sized screen with good brightness (the JVC still has about 1200-1400 calibrated lumens with filter). The JVC will have slightly better motion handling and a smoother more film like look due to the LCoS panels vs. LCD.
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't have a room where you'll be able to appreciate the contrast difference (white walls, light pollution, etc) of the JVC and do watch a lot of content with the lights on, the Epson is a very compelling option. If you do have a well light controlled room and find yourself watching a lot of movies with the lights out, the JVC is going to be tough to beat. Though to get the most out of the JVC with 4K/HDR it will require fiddling with their tone controls or pairing it with something like the Panasonic UB820. Definitely not as smooth or easy as the new Epson implementation.
> 
> 
> 
> Both projectors have lens memory and generous lens shift. Both are 1080 panels being shifted for extra resolution. So no advantage either way.
> 
> 
> 
> So in conclusion, for viewing with the lights on, a very large screen (150+") or a room that won't show the contrast advantages the Epson is an excellent choice. If you watch a lot of movies and have a room that will allow you to appreciate the differences in contrast the JVC is going to put up a picture few projectors will beat.


Darn this is a really hard decision, not a whole lot of those JVCs left and I would really love to have better black performance. Almost everything else points me towards the Epson because I have a feeling I won't use the filter on either projector and will appreciate the extra lumens. My room is around 16x14 so it's not massive and I'm planning to use a 135" screen so I think the JVC should be pretty bright too. Of course I don't like the idea of running it in high all the time especially with the expensive bulbs.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Biggydeen

I'm having some trouble to get the picture in focus on my tw9400 (6050UB). The picture always seems to be somewhat blurry. This is very noticeable when I'm in Windows (Using a PC as an input source for now. Core i5 1070ti). All pictograms on the desktop and the clock in the right corner is a little blurry. This is even more noticeable in 4k vs 1080p. The projector is about 18 feet away (on a shelf in the back of the room) from a 120" screen (painted on the wall). I'm using lens shift to some extent but not that much.

I did have the same problem with my older BenQ W1070. Although this seemed to be a focus uniformity problem in the projector since I could focus the right side just fine. Only the left side would always be somewhat out of focus. But on the 6050UB I cannot razor-sharp focus anywhere on the screen. Now I know special paint on the wall is not as good as a real screen but I doubt this is the problem since my former projector could razor-sharp focus on the right side. 

I'm using the focus option and sharpness settings. Although sharpness does not seem to have any noticeable effect. I'm using a cheap HDMI cable directly connected to the projector. If my wall is not perfectly straight I still should be able to razor-sharp focus on some point of the wall either right or left. I would expect that in a higher resolution (4k vs 1080p) it would be less blurry but in 4k it's even worse (I can hardly see the time in the right corner).

Is there something I'm missing here?


----------



## Luminated67

Biggydeen said:


> I'm having some trouble to get the picture in focus on my tw9400 (6050UB). The picture always seems to be somewhat blurry. This is very noticeable when I'm in Windows (Using a PC as an input source for now. Core i5 1070ti). All pictograms on the desktop and the clock in the right corner is a little blurry. This is even more noticeable in 4k vs 1080p. The projector is about 18 feet away (on a shelf in the back of the room) from a 120" screen (painted on the wall). I'm using lens shift to some extent but not that much.
> 
> I did have the same problem with my older BenQ W1070. Although this seemed to be a focus uniformity problem in the projector since I could focus the right side just fine. Only the left side would always be somewhat out of focus. But on the 6050UB I cannot razor-sharp focus anywhere on the screen. Now I know special paint on the wall is not as good as a real screen but I doubt this is the problem since my former projector could razor-sharp focus on the right side.
> 
> I'm using the focus option and sharpness settings. Although sharpness does not seem to have any noticeable effect. I'm using a cheap HDMI cable directly connected to the projector. If my wall is not perfectly straight I still should be able to razor-sharp focus on some point of the wall either right or left. I would expect that in a higher resolution (4k vs 1080p) it would be less blurry but in 4k it's even worse (I can hardly see the time in the right corner).
> 
> Is there something I'm missing here?


Are you streaming 4K or is it from a UHD disc?

Might be your display card not being up to the job, what might look great on a 24" display doesn't mean it will scale up to the same sharp image on a projector screen. Also your painted wall won't give as crisp an image as a dedicated screen should.


----------



## Biggydeen

Luminated67 said:


> Are you streaming 4K or is it from a UHD disc?
> 
> Might be your display card not being up to the job, what might look great on a 24" display doesn't mean it will scale up to the same sharp image on a projector screen. Also your painted wall won't give as crisp an image as a dedicated screen should.


I'm using mostly .mkv files. Might be the source (GPU) but it's capable of native 8k so I doubt that is the problem. Might be the wall but I could focus my older projector pretty well. The tw9400 seems to be more out of focus. But a dedicated screen would be better.


----------



## mon2479

I really need some help with mounting distance, my house is in the process of being built and we have electrical blue print walk through coming up and I am not sure where to have the electrical outlet installed on the ceiling. I've tried using the calculator on projectorcentral and I don't understand it. I was hoping someone here could.

My HT room is going to be 14ft 6in wide by 17ft long with 9ft ceilings. My thought was to use a 138" Silver Ticket white 2.35:1 screen(I'm done with the black bars on movies), it's 135.5" wide by 60.5" high. Could I ceiling mount the 5050UB at 15ft-15.5ft and have the outlet be at 16ft? Let me know my options please.

Thank you


----------



## jeahrens

reechings said:


> Darn this is a really hard decision, not a whole lot of those JVCs left and I would really love to have better black performance. Almost everything else points me towards the Epson because I have a feeling I won't use the filter on either projector and will appreciate the extra lumens. My room is around 16x14 so it's not massive and I'm planning to use a 135" screen so I think the JVC should be pretty bright too. Of course I don't like the idea of running it in high all the time especially with the expensive bulbs.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I used the filter on my RS520 on a 130" scope screen and use it on my NX7 now. I definitely appreciate the color volume it brings. I think you might be surprised on whether you end up using it or not.

Keep in mind just like with the projector, no dealer you have a good relationship with is going to charge MSRP for a JVC bulb. Granted they are still more expensive than Epson. High lamp on the JVC and medium power on the Epson are going to be likely realities with HDR. The RS520 was my first 4K projector and I was staunchly in the "low bulb only" crowd until the realities of HDR and BT2020 sunk in. High lamp just looked much nicer. Then I just quit caring. You only live once. Enjoy it how you want and buy a bulb if you need one. One thing to note is the latest JVC bulbs seem remarkably stable with users over 1000hrs reporting very little loss in output. Again, I don't feel like that negates the excellent pricing Epson has on their lamps, but it does make the more expensive pill a bit easier to swallow.

There's no real loser here. The Epson is an incredible value for what it offers. The JVC throws one of the best images I've seen and it's pretty incredible to see it at the price it is considering what they went for just a year ago.


----------



## Luminated67

mon2479 said:


> I really need some help with mounting distance, my house is in the process of being built and we have electrical blue print walk through coming up and I am not sure where to have the electrical outlet installed on the ceiling. I've tried using the calculator on projectorcentral and I don't understand it. I was hoping someone here could.
> 
> My HT room is going to be 14ft 6in wide by 17ft long with 9ft ceilings. My thought was to use a 138" Silver Ticket white 2.35:1 screen(I'm done with the black bars on movies), it's 135.5" wide by 60.5" high. Could I ceiling mount the 5050UB at 15ft-15.5ft and have the outlet be at 16ft? Let me know my options please.
> 
> Thank you


For that size of screen the minimum throw distance from the PJ Lens to the screen is 14'9", the projector size is roughly 1.5 foot deep so you don't have a lot of play. The one advantage of having the zoom wide is you'll get a brighter image for HDR contain. So based on the above calculations I think the minimum distance you'd want to mount the ceiling mount would be 15.8ft as half the depth of the Projector is 8.5 inches.

If you drop your screen size down to a 125" CinemaScope screen your zoom would be a little less wide open, might be a better compromise. I'd suggestion mounting the projector first and throwing up a white sheet or if your wall is white projecting on to that to get a feel whether you need to bigger screen or not before buying because then it's too late.


----------



## reechings

jeahrens said:


> I used the filter on my RS520 on a 130" scope screen and use it on my NX7 now. I definitely appreciate the color volume it brings. I think you might be surprised on whether you end up using it or not.
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind just like with the projector, no dealer you have a good relationship with is going to charge MSRP for a JVC bulb. Granted they are still more expensive than Epson. High lamp on the JVC and medium power on the Epson are going to be likely realities with HDR. The RS520 was my first 4K projector and I was staunchly in the "low bulb only" crowd until the realities of HDR and BT2020 sunk in. High lamp just looked much nicer. Then I just quit caring. You only live once. Enjoy it how you want and buy a bulb if you need one. One thing to note is the latest JVC bulbs seem remarkably stable with users over 1000hrs reporting very little loss in output. Again, I don't feel like that negates the excellent pricing Epson has on their lamps, but it does make the more expensive pill a bit easier to swallow.
> 
> 
> 
> There's no real loser here. The Epson is an incredible value for what it offers. The JVC throws one of the best images I've seen and it's pretty incredible to see it at the price it is considering what they went for just a year ago.


Thanks for your input, I have started considering the NX-5 as I like the idea of not having to use e-shifting at all. So you have to run your NX-7 in high for HDR? How loud is that? Can the NX-7 handle a little bit of light in the room for watching sports etc.? 

Sorry for JVC talk in Epson thread 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

Luminated67 said:


> mon2479 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I really need some help with mounting distance, my house is in the process of being built and we have electrical blue print walk through coming up and I am not sure where to have the electrical outlet installed on the ceiling. I've tried using the calculator on projectorcentral and I don't understand it. I was hoping someone here could.
> 
> My HT room is going to be 14ft 6in wide by 17ft long with 9ft ceilings. My thought was to use a 138" Silver Ticket white 2.35:1 screen(I'm done with the black bars on movies), it's 135.5" wide by 60.5" high. Could I ceiling mount the 5050UB at 15ft-15.5ft and have the outlet be at 16ft? Let me know my options please.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> For that size of screen the minimum throw distance from the PJ Lens to the screen is 14'9", the projector size is roughly 1.5 foot deep so you don't have a lot of play. The one advantage of having the zoom wide is you'll get a brighter image for HDR contain. So based on the above calculations I think the minimum distance you'd want to mount the ceiling mount would be 15.8ft as half the depth of the Projector is 8.5 inches.
> 
> If you drop your screen size down to a 125" CinemaScope screen your zoom would be a little less wide open, might be a better compromise. I'd suggestion mounting the projector first and throwing up a white sheet or if your wall is white projecting on to that to get a feel whether you need to bigger screen or not before buying because then it's too late.
Click to expand...

 The 125" screen was another option I thought about, at what distance would the PJ have to be? Is the mounting distance the lense or the mounting point, like the pole.....if that makes sense?


----------



## CanadaMark

reechings said:


> Thanks for the replies,I look forward to seeing what it looks like. Sounds like only a little bit of light is OK with the 6050 so would probably be a no go with the JVC.
> 
> On a side note a refurb 5040 is on for only $1500 CDN which is tempting but I think all the fooling around with HDMI bandwidth issues would get annoying quickly.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Does anyone know why my post was deleted but not this one? I assumed it was because price was vaguely mentioned. What did I do wrong? Just trying to learn for next time, thanks.

I was trying to help out a previous poster letting him know what kind of discount % he might expect.


----------



## BIC2

Just ordered 6050 from AVS. If I'm running one HDMI from pre/pro to 6050, any reason to run the second HDMI? I've already bought the cable but not sure the purpose, except maybe a backup if the first goes bad. Same for Ethernet cable, what purpose would it serve if everything goes through pre/pro HDMI? Thanks.


----------



## Luminated67

mon2479 said:


> The 125" screen was another option I thought about, at what distance would the PJ have to be? Is the mounting distance the lense or the mounting point, like the pole.....if that makes sense?


For the 138” screen the minimum distance is 14’9” that’s the distance from the screen to the lens. That’s why I suggested mounting you ceiling mount pole at 15’8” as this gives you a little wriggle room with the zoom though it’s very small which is why I feel the 125” scene would be a smarter option plus your mount wouldn’t need moved as it still works as is for the smaller screen.


----------



## jeahrens

reechings said:


> Thanks for your input, I have started considering the NX-5 as I like the idea of not having to use e-shifting at all. So you have to run your NX-7 in high for HDR? How loud is that? Can the NX-7 handle a little bit of light in the room for watching sports etc.?
> 
> Sorry for JVC talk in Epson thread
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I don't watch sports on my projector, but in the owners thread those that do seem very pleased with the results. I do run the NX7 in high lamp for HDR (though you don't have to I prefer it). The fan pitch in the newer chassis is much lower in frequency and a lot less noticeable to my ear than the previous model. Which was a pleasant surprise. Though I do think both the Epson and e-shift JVC have manageable noise levels in medium and high lamp respectively. 

The NX lineup uses the same bulb as the previous generation, so no real difference in lumen output. So it's going to be the same with ambient light. Any projector will struggle here and it's purely a battle of lumens vs. the amount of ambient light hitting the screen. The Epson definitely has a lumen advantage and will outperform either JVC with ambient light simply because of this. I think the JVC does as well as any other projector with similar light output. An ALR screen is an option for ambient light, but I feel like it has too many compromises to recommend for movies. Sorry I can't give a better answer here. The impact of ambient light depends on a lot of things. How much is there? Does it hit the screen directly? And what kind of content is being displayed. I would guess that brightly lit sports programming with ambient light not directly hitting the screen is going to be manageable on the JVC (and better on the Epson). If you REALLY want this capability you might consider a 2 screen setup. An ALR screen just for lights on sports and normal screen for lights out movies. I've seen a setup with a 16:9 ALR screen for TV and Stewart 2.35:1 screen for movies. Works very well, but as you probably guessed it's not cheap.

The NX5 b-stock is very attractively priced vs. the options we're discussing (non b-stock isn't bad either). You'll lose the ability to use a color filter (the NX5 lacks the BT2020 filter along with the second iris vs. its higher priced siblings), but gain native 4K and the exceptional lens they've managed to put into this lineup. Granted the move to native 4K vs. e-shift isn't night and day, but there are definitely times you will notice. Either way you have a tough choice on your hands.


----------



## JewDaddy

Biggydeen said:


> I'm having some trouble to get the picture in focus on my tw9400 (6050UB). The picture always seems to be somewhat blurry. This is very noticeable when I'm in Windows (Using a PC as an input source for now. Core i5 1070ti). All pictograms on the desktop and the clock in the right corner is a little blurry. This is even more noticeable in 4k vs 1080p. The projector is about 18 feet away (on a shelf in the back of the room) from a 120" screen (painted on the wall). I'm using lens shift to some extent but not that much.
> 
> 
> 
> I did have the same problem with my older BenQ W1070. Although this seemed to be a focus uniformity problem in the projector since I could focus the right side just fine. Only the left side would always be somewhat out of focus. But on the 6050UB I cannot razor-sharp focus anywhere on the screen. Now I know special paint on the wall is not as good as a real screen but I doubt this is the problem since my former projector could razor-sharp focus on the right side.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the focus option and sharpness settings. Although sharpness does not seem to have any noticeable effect. I'm using a cheap HDMI cable directly connected to the projector. If my wall is not perfectly straight I still should be able to razor-sharp focus on some point of the wall either right or left. I would expect that in a higher resolution (4k vs 1080p) it would be less blurry but in 4k it's even worse (I can hardly see the time in the right corner).
> 
> 
> 
> Is there something I'm missing here?


Hey there! I had the same issue with my first 5050. I even had that same issue with my previous four or five 5040's that I went through. I always chalked it up to either something in my environment or just limitations of the projector not having perfect uniformity. Well, I got lucky and hit the jackpot on my replacement 5050 that I received a few months back. I have a PERFECT uniform sharp picture. I never thought it would be possible. I run the same tests you have with your PC and one side or bottom corner would always be out of focus. Unfortunately I think it's just the luck of the draw. You might be able to complain enough to Epson that they might be willing to send a replacement. After seeing how much more enjoyable a perfectly uniform screen looks, it's hard to think about anything less. Trust me, your eyes are not deceiving you and there's nothing wrong with your setup .

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

Luminated67 said:


> mon2479 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The 125" screen was another option I thought about, at what distance would the PJ have to be? Is the mounting distance the lense or the mounting point, like the pole.....if that makes sense?
> 
> 
> 
> For the 138â€ screen the minimum distance is 14â€™️9â€ thatâ€™️s the distance from the screen to the lens. Thatâ€™️s why I suggested mounting you ceiling mount pole at 15â€™️8â€ as this gives you a little wriggle room with the zoom though itâ€™️s very small which is why I feel the 125â€ scene would be a smarter option plus your mount wouldnâ€™️t need moved as it still works as is for the smaller screen.
Click to expand...

 Thanks, I will do the 125" screen and mount the pole at 15ft 8" and have the outlet at 16ft


----------



## Luminated67

mon2479 said:


> Thanks, I will do the 125" screen and mount the pole at 15ft 8" and have the outlet at 16ft


Don’t despair because that 125” CinemaScope screen has the same width as a 139” 16:10 screen which is still big in any man’s book.


----------



## reechings

jeahrens said:


> I don't watch sports on my projector, but in the owners thread those that do seem very pleased with the results. I do run the NX7 in high lamp for HDR (though you don't have to I prefer it). The fan pitch in the newer chassis is much lower in frequency and a lot less noticeable to my ear than the previous model. Which was a pleasant surprise. Though I do think both the Epson and e-shift JVC have manageable noise levels in medium and high lamp respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> The NX lineup uses the same bulb as the previous generation, so no real difference in lumen output. So it's going to be the same with ambient light. Any projector will struggle here and it's purely a battle of lumens vs. the amount of ambient light hitting the screen. The Epson definitely has a lumen advantage and will outperform either JVC with ambient light simply because of this. I think the JVC does as well as any other projector with similar light output. An ALR screen is an option for ambient light, but I feel like it has too many compromises to recommend for movies. Sorry I can't give a better answer here. The impact of ambient light depends on a lot of things. How much is there? Does it hit the screen directly? And what kind of content is being displayed. I would guess that brightly lit sports programming with ambient light not directly hitting the screen is going to be manageable on the JVC (and better on the Epson). If you REALLY want this capability you might consider a 2 screen setup. An ALR screen just for lights on sports and normal screen for lights out movies. I've seen a setup with a 16:9 ALR screen for TV and Stewart 2.35:1 screen for movies. Works very well, but as you probably guessed it's not cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> The NX5 b-stock is very attractively priced vs. the options we're discussing (non b-stock isn't bad either). You'll lose the ability to use a color filter (the NX5 lacks the BT2020 filter along with the second iris vs. its higher priced siblings), but gain native 4K and the exceptional lens they've managed to put into this lineup. Granted the move to native 4K vs. e-shift isn't night and day, but there are definitely times you will notice. Either way you have a tough choice on your hands.


Yeah I think I might just buy a new Elunevision Reference 4K 135" screen and test out the new setup with my Epson 3100. It's a bit of a light cannon but should hopefully give me some idea if I need the lumens of the 6050 or not to be happy.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## drober30

JewDaddy said:


> Biggydeen said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having some trouble to get the picture in focus on my tw9400 (6050UB). The picture always seems to be somewhat blurry. This is very noticeable when I'm in Windows (Using a PC as an input source for now. Core i5 1070ti). All pictograms on the desktop and the clock in the right corner is a little blurry. This is even more noticeable in 4k vs 1080p. The projector is about 18 feet away (on a shelf in the back of the room) from a 120" screen (painted on the wall). I'm using lens shift to some extent but not that much.
> 
> 
> 
> I did have the same problem with my older BenQ W1070. Although this seemed to be a focus uniformity problem in the projector since I could focus the right side just fine. Only the left side would always be somewhat out of focus. But on the 6050UB I cannot razor-sharp focus anywhere on the screen. Now I know special paint on the wall is not as good as a real screen but I doubt this is the problem since my former projector could razor-sharp focus on the right side.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the focus option and sharpness settings. Although sharpness does not seem to have any noticeable effect. I'm using a cheap HDMI cable directly connected to the projector. If my wall is not perfectly straight I still should be able to razor-sharp focus on some point of the wall either right or left. I would expect that in a higher resolution (4k vs 1080p) it would be less blurry but in 4k it's even worse (I can hardly see the time in the right corner).
> 
> 
> 
> Is there something I'm missing here?
> 
> 
> 
> Hey there! I had the same issue with my first 5050. I even had that same issue with my previous four or five 5040's that I went through. I always chalked it up to either something in my environment or just limitations of the projector not having perfect uniformity. Well, I got lucky and hit the jackpot on my replacement 5050 that I received a few months back. I have a PERFECT uniform sharp picture. I never thought it would be possible. I run the same tests you have with your PC and one side or bottom corner would always be out of focus. Unfortunately I think it's just the luck of the draw. You might be able to complain enough to Epson that they might be willing to send a replacement. After seeing how much more enjoyable a perfectly uniform screen looks, it's hard to think about anything less. Trust me, your eyes are not deceiving you and there's nothing wrong with your setup .
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I agree that your eyes are not playing tricks, you should be able to get a perfectly focused picture and for thousands of dollars, there is no such thing as luck of the draw, I would absolutely demand it work right!


----------



## dr bill

Was most of the way through watching Shazam! (and enjoying this movie!), and the pj shut down. First time this has happened. Not many hours on the unit, so I'm surprised to already be having an issue.

A got a *flashing blue status light* and a *flashing orange temp light*. 

Owner's Manual says:

"*A fan or sensor has a problem; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help*"

Anyone else had this happen, and if so, what happened next?!? (Besides contacting Epson, which is what I am doing next...)

And don't tell me the ending of the movie, please. It was just getting good! Shazam! :grin:


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Hey guys

I used the settings that was posted here a few pages back ( sdr, hdr natural and hdr bright )

I still want to tweak and check the settings. Any free tools or software out for this ? Especially for hdr and 4k?

I find the blacks are kind of grey. I'm using medium lamp mode, 138 screen of white on black spandex 0.7 gain.


----------



## Biggydeen

JewDaddy said:


> Hey there! I had the same issue with my first 5050. I even had that same issue with my previous four or five 5040's that I went through. I always chalked it up to either something in my environment or just limitations of the projector not having perfect uniformity. Well, I got lucky and hit the jackpot on my replacement 5050 that I received a few months back. I have a PERFECT uniform sharp picture. I never thought it would be possible. I run the same tests you have with your PC and one side or bottom corner would always be out of focus. Unfortunately I think it's just the luck of the draw. You might be able to complain enough to Epson that they might be willing to send a replacement. After seeing how much more enjoyable a perfectly uniform screen looks, it's hard to think about anything less. Trust me, your eyes are not deceiving you and there's nothing wrong with your setup .
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Hmm that sucks... I will contact Epson. I also notice it when watching movies and becomes very annoying once you notice it..

Edit:

Just did some more checking. It's just not sharp. It looks like there is some purple haze above the white pixels. This is very noticeable up close when using the panel alignment option. But I'm not sure this is caused by the out of focus picture or that something else is wrong. Aligning the panels does not seem to help. From a distance, it looks quite sharp but up close it just not sharp enough.

I also noticed that I cannot reset my lens shift. When using the "Reset Lens Positioning" option nothing happens. Also, the "Reset all to default" option does nothing. It does reset all setting I made (picture quality etc) but the lens shift is not reset to default. Maybe it's not an option to reset it to default?

Just attached a picture of the clock as an example. This is on 1080p. You can clearly see that the ^ symbol is not a straight line on left part. And the purple/red haze is also noticeable. This is the best focus I can get.

Unfortunately, Epson is closed today so can't call them. Will do on monday.


----------



## Kelvin1000

Biggydeen said:


> Hmm that sucks... I will contact Epson. I also notice it when watching movies and becomes very annoying once you notice it..
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> 
> Just did some more checking. It's just not sharp. It looks like there is some purple haze above the white pixels. This is very noticeable up close when using the panel alignment option. But I'm not sure this is caused by the out of focus picture or that something else is wrong. Aligning the panels does not seem to help. From a distance, it looks quite sharp but up close it just not sharp enough.
> 
> 
> 
> I also noticed that I cannot reset my lens shift. When using the "Reset Lens Positioning" option nothing happens. Also, the "Reset all to default" option does nothing. It does reset all setting I made (picture quality etc) but the lens shift is not reset to default. Maybe it's not an option to reset it to default?
> 
> 
> 
> Just attached a picture of the clock as an example. This is on 1080p. You can clearly see that the ^ symbol is not a straight line on left part. And the purple/red haze is also noticeable. This is the best focus I can get.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, Epson is closed today so can't call them. Will do on monday.




Have you used the pattern button to make sure the lens is focused properly?

Can you post pics?


----------



## drober30

Biggydeen said:


> JewDaddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey there! I had the same issue with my first 5050. I even had that same issue with my previous four or five 5040's that I went through. I always chalked it up to either something in my environment or just limitations of the projector not having perfect uniformity. Well, I got lucky and hit the jackpot on my replacement 5050 that I received a few months back. I have a PERFECT uniform sharp picture. I never thought it would be possible. I run the same tests you have with your PC and one side or bottom corner would always be out of focus. Unfortunately I think it's just the luck of the draw. You might be able to complain enough to Epson that they might be willing to send a replacement. After seeing how much more enjoyable a perfectly uniform screen looks, it's hard to think about anything less. Trust me, your eyes are not deceiving you and there's nothing wrong with your setup .
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm that sucks... I will contact Epson. I also notice it when watching movies and becomes very annoying once you notice it..
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Just did some more checking. It's just not sharp. It looks like there is some purple haze above the white pixels. This is very noticeable up close when using the panel alignment option. But I'm not sure this is caused by the out of focus picture or that something else is wrong. Aligning the panels does not seem to help. From a distance, it looks quite sharp but up close it just not sharp enough.
> 
> I also noticed that I cannot reset my lens shift. When using the "Reset Lens Positioning" option nothing happens. Also, the "Reset all to default" option does nothing. It does reset all setting I made (picture quality etc) but the lens shift is not reset to default. Maybe it's not an option to reset it to default?
> 
> Just attached a picture of the clock as an example. This is on 1080p. You can clearly see that the ^ symbol is not a straight line on left part. And the purple/red haze is also noticeable. This is the best focus I can get.
> 
> Unfortunately, Epson is closed today so can't call them. Will do on monday.
Click to expand...

Does it look like this when displaying the menu/settings from the projector?

That definitely is not focused like it should be.

I would give Epson tech support a call and if the can’t fix it with a hard reset or something, I would be requesting a new projector.


----------



## Gellert1

Biggydeen said:


> JewDaddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey there! I had the same issue with my first 5050. I even had that same issue with my previous four or five 5040's that I went through. I always chalked it up to either something in my environment or just limitations of the projector not having perfect uniformity. Well, I got lucky and hit the jackpot on my replacement 5050 that I received a few months back. I have a PERFECT uniform sharp picture. I never thought it would be possible. I run the same tests you have with your PC and one side or bottom corner would always be out of focus. Unfortunately I think it's just the luck of the draw. You might be able to complain enough to Epson that they might be willing to send a replacement. After seeing how much more enjoyable a perfectly uniform screen looks, it's hard to think about anything less. Trust me, your eyes are not deceiving you and there's nothing wrong with your setup .
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm that sucks... I will contact Epson. I also notice it when watching movies and becomes very annoying once you notice it..
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Just did some more checking. It's just not sharp. It looks like there is some purple haze above the white pixels. This is very noticeable up close when using the panel alignment option. But I'm not sure this is caused by the out of focus picture or that something else is wrong. Aligning the panels does not seem to help. From a distance, it looks quite sharp but up close it just not sharp enough.
> 
> I also noticed that I cannot reset my lens shift. When using the "Reset Lens Positioning" option nothing happens. Also, the "Reset all to default" option does nothing. It does reset all setting I made (picture quality etc) but the lens shift is not reset to default. Maybe it's not an option to reset it to default?
> 
> Just attached a picture of the clock as an example. This is on 1080p. You can clearly see that the ^ symbol is not a straight line on left part. And the purple/red haze is also noticeable. This is the best focus I can get.
> 
> Unfortunately, Epson is closed today so can't call them. Will do on monday.
Click to expand...

If you are using any KEYSTONE adjustments at all...even just by a minimum "1", it will distort all straight lines up close. That may also give it a purple haze. Remove all KEYSTONE settings to "0" and look at it again 👍


----------



## dr bill

dr bill said:


> Was most of the way through watching Shazam! (and enjoying this movie!), and the pj shut down. First time this has happened. Not many hours on the unit, so I'm surprised to already be having an issue.
> 
> A got a *flashing blue status light* and a *flashing orange temp light*.
> 
> Owner's Manual says:
> 
> "*A fan or sensor has a problem; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help*"
> 
> Anyone else had this happen, and if so, what happened next?!? (Besides contacting Epson, which is what I am doing next...)
> 
> And don't tell me the ending of the movie, please. It was just getting good! Shazam! :grin:



*UPDATE:*

Let it sit overnight. Plugged it back in, and I get the same flashing blue and orange lights; the 5050 is non-functioning. Darn.

Epson is sendind out a replacement *refurb* unit, though they tell me it will have a brand new lamp in it. Since I'm out past the 30 days since purchase, I do not get a new unit. Kinda bummed about that. I also politely asked for a 6050 upgrade and was politely turned down.

I was hopeful about their advertised 'overnight' shipping of the refurb unit, but given it's the weekend, the refurb won't be sent out until Monday, and I should receive it on Tuesday. So much for 'overnight'.

Very happy with the 5050 when it is working. Disappointed that my practically brand new 5050 is not working and already needs to be replaced. With a refurb...


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

dr bill said:


> *UPDATE:*
> 
> 
> 
> Let it sit overnight. Plugged it back in, and I get the same flashing blue and orange lights; the 5050 is non-functioning. Darn.
> 
> 
> 
> Epson is sendind out a replacement *refurb* unit, though they tell me it will have a brand new lamp in it. Since I'm out past the 30 days since purchase, I do not get a new unit. Kinda bummed about that. I also politely asked for a 6050 upgrade and was politely turned down.
> 
> 
> 
> I was hopeful about their advertised 'overnight' shipping of the refurb unit, but given it's the weekend, the refurb won't be sent out until Monday, and I should receive it on Tuesday. So much for 'overnight'.
> 
> 
> 
> Very happy with the 5050 when it is working. Disappointed that my practically brand new 5050 is not working and already needs to be replaced. With a refurb...




So you think you deserve a 6050 ? Interesting....I’m on my fourth 5050UB and I don’t deserve one. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So you think you deserve a 6050 ? Interesting....I’m on my fourth 5050UB and I don’t deserve one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Well, it can't hurt to ask, right?!?


----------



## reechings

Any thoughts on using a slim border screen vs one with the 4 inch black border around? I like the look of the slim frame one but I notice right now with my 3100 that different sources sometimes jump around and it is also hard to get a perfect fit in the first place without having some oversplash. Anyone have any issues using slim frame screen with the 6050?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## RaceCarDriver

gibson61 said:


> Anyone who has followed EPSON over the years knows the pro models are no better then the consumer model. Your paying a extra $1000 just for the black case' and the extras parts. But don't expect some killer improvement in performance.


If you want a Panamorph lens, you need the 6050 as only the 6050 has the Anamorphic Wide and Horizontal squeeze modes.

The 6050 also includes ISF modes that the 5050 does not have.

The mounting kit that is included with the 6050 is a $300 option on the 5050. The lamp is $300 from Epson. Back cable cover is typically a $50 accessory. The additional year of warranty is not just 1 year extended, but their premium rapid replacement warranty. It’s usually a $300 give or take warranty.

You're not paying $1000 for some gimmicks and a black case. For someone who wants Epson’s best HT lamp projector, the 6050 is the one to get. It’s the full boat. Once you add it all up, the price makes sense IMO.


----------



## mach250

reechings said:


> Any thoughts on using a slim border screen vs one with the 4 inch black border around? I like the look of the slim frame one but I notice right now with my 3100 that different sources sometimes jump around and it is also hard to get a perfect fit in the first place without having some oversplash. Anyone have any issues using slim frame screen with the 6050?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




I love the look of the thin bezel screens but I always have difficulty getting the picture perfect to all four edges so I know I’d go mad if I didn’t have the felt edges.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

RaceCarDriver said:


> If you want a Panamorph lens, you need the 6050 as only the 6050 has the Anamorphic Wide and Horizontal squeeze modes.
> 
> 
> 
> The 6050 also includes ISF modes that the 5050 does not have.
> 
> 
> 
> The mounting kit that is included with the 6050 is a $300 option on the 5050. The lamp is $300 from Epson. Back cable cover is typically a $50 accessory. The additional year of warranty is not just 1 year extended, but their premium rapid replacement warranty. It’s usually a $300 give or take warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> You're not paying $1000 for some gimmicks and a black case. For someone who wants Epson’s best HT lamp projector, the 6050 is the one to get. It’s the full boat. Once you add it all up, the price makes sense IMO.


Could not have said it better myself. 100% agree.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Biggydeen

Kelvin1000 said:


> Have you used the pattern button to make sure the lens is focused properly?
> 
> Can you post pics?


I did use the pattern. And in the beginning, everything looks sharp. But when paying closer attention it's not that sharp at all (there is some coloured haze around the white line). See pics.



drober30 said:


> Does it look like this when displaying the menu/settings from the projector?
> 
> That definitely is not focused like it should be.
> 
> I would give Epson tech support a call and if the can’t fix it with a hard reset or something, I would be requesting a new projector.


The menu looks sharper but also has a purple/blue/green haze around it when paying close attention.



Gellert said:


> If you are using any KEYSTONE adjustments at all...even just by a minimum "1", it will distort all straight lines up close. That may also give it a purple haze. Remove all KEYSTONE settings to "0" and look at it again 👍


I did not use any keystone. Checked it twice, and reset to default just to be sure.

Made some more pics, see attachment. The most blurry one of the clock is 4k resolution. It's even way more blurry then 1080p. 

I notice when using the panel alignment there is always a purple haze above the white line when looking up close. This haze will only disappear when I align the red color more downwards. But that makes the red line visible so that's not good. 

My phone actually captures more haze (green/red/purple-ish) then I can see on the screen.

When looking at the letter "t" I can see that the horizontal bar on the t should be 2 pixels wide. Up close it's more like 2 pixels wide and some colored haze on both sides. When I really focus on getting the picture clear I can make it 2 pixels wide but then other uniformity's appear.

What I find really strange is that the left side of the ^ symbol in the bottom right corner is always blurred. The right side seems kind of straight although somewhat blurry. But the left side of the ^ symbol is completely out of focus.

I did try all kinds of zooming, lens shifting etc. But the left side of the ^ symbol always stays blurry for some reason.

Will call Epson right away on Monday.


----------



## Porknz

What ceiling mounts are you guys using for your 5050UB? Mine just showed up and I have this mount currently to install.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01014CD0O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


It was one of the most frequently highly rated mounts I could find when I was researching, but having opened up the projector and lifted it out, I feel like I need a crane to hold it up. This mount says it can handle 30lbs and the 5050UB is less than 25lbs. How much can I stop worrying with this mount?


Thanks.


----------



## Luminated67

Biggydeen said:


> I did use the pattern. And in the beginning, everything looks sharp. But when paying closer attention it's not that sharp at all (there is some coloured haze around the white line). See pics.
> 
> 
> 
> The menu looks sharper but also has a purple/blue/green haze around it when paying close attention.
> 
> 
> 
> I did not use any keystone. Checked it twice, and reset to default just to be sure.
> 
> Made some more pics, see attachment. The most blurry one of the clock is 4k resolution. It's even way more blurry then 1080p.
> 
> I notice when using the panel alignment there is always a purple haze above the white line when looking up close. This haze will only disappear when I align the red color more downwards. But that makes the red line visible so that's not good.
> 
> My phone actually captures more haze (green/red/purple-ish) then I can see on the screen.
> 
> When looking at the letter "t" I can see that the horizontal bar on the t should be 2 pixels wide. Up close it's more like 2 pixels wide and some colored haze on both sides. When I really focus on getting the picture clear I can make it 2 pixels wide but then other uniformity's appear.
> 
> What I find really strange is that the left side of the ^ symbol in the bottom right corner is always blurred. The right side seems kind of straight although somewhat blurry. But the left side of the ^ symbol is completely out of focus.
> 
> I did try all kinds of zooming, lens shifting etc. But the left side of the ^ symbol always stays blurry for some reason.
> 
> Will call Epson right away on Monday.


You need to set up the convergence. Best wait until the pj has been running for 30 minutes plus before setup it up.


----------



## BIC2

Porknz said:


> What ceiling mounts are you guys using for your 5050UB? Mine just showed up and I have this mount currently to install.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01014CD0O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> It was one of the most frequently highly rated mounts I could find when I was researching, but having opened up the projector and lifted it out, I feel like I need a crane to hold it up. This mount says it can handle 30lbs and the 5050UB is less than 25lbs. How much can I stop worrying with this mount?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


You can stop worrying if you return that $17 mount. You need a safety margin of 4x your weight for hanging stuff. So, if you're hanging 25 lbs, you need a mount rated for at least 100 lbs. Don't cheap out on this. Crashes aren't covered by the warranty. The 6050UB comes with the Chief CHF4000 (or 4500) (available separately from Epson). You can't go wrong with the Epson recommended mount.

https://epson.com/Accessories/Projector-Accessories/Projector-Ceiling-Mount-Kit/p/CHF4500


----------



## DavidinGA

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So you think you deserve a 6050 ? Interesting....I’m on my fourth 5050UB and I don’t deserve one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Your 4th 5050?

What's been wrong with all those???

Psu problems like the old 5040?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

BIC2 said:


> You can stop worrying if you return that $17 mount. You need a safety margin of 4x your weight for hanging stuff. So, if you're hanging 25 lbs, you need a mount rated for at least 100 lbs. Don't cheap out on this. Crashes aren't covered by the warranty. The 6050UB comes with the Chief CHF4000 (or 4500) (available separately from Epson). You can't go wrong with the Epson recommended mount.
> 
> https://epson.com/Accessories/Projector-Accessories/Projector-Ceiling-Mount-Kit/p/CHF4500



!!! Four times the weight! I obviously know just enough to be really, really dangerous. I'd love more suggestions of info here from any other owners too. Thanks guys.


----------



## BIC2

Porknz said:


> !!! Four times the weight! I obviously know just enough to be really, really dangerous. I'd love more suggestions of info here from any other owners too. Thanks guys.


FYI, that comes from a guy that owns a company that manufactures hardware for hanging commercial light fixtures. We talked a bit when I needed non-standard hardware for hanging a custom built 100 lb light fixture.


----------



## JonfromCB

Porknz said:


> What ceiling mounts are you guys using for your 5050UB? Mine just showed up and I have this mount currently to install.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01014CD0O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> It was one of the most frequently highly rated mounts I could find when I was researching, but having opened up the projector and lifted it out, I feel like I need a crane to hold it up. This mount says it can handle 30lbs and the 5050UB is less than 25lbs. How much can I stop worrying with this mount?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


If you take 10 minutes to look back through this thread, mounts have been discussed at length at least twice. The Chief is the unanimous choice for many reasons. If you've changed out even one PJ, tried to change even one bulb by yourself, or set up and aligned a new PJ with a Chief after having done any of the same things using other mounts you will understand why Chief is the best mount. Trust us, take the advice.


----------



## Porknz

So, just talked with Best Buy. I obviously trust your advice here more, but they recommended a $100 Epson and said this is what they sell all of their customers for the 5050UB. It can hold 25lbs. I relayed that the 5050UB weighs 25lbs and they verified that was not an issue. Again, I'd love to know what more of you are mounted with.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JonfromCB said:


> If you take 10 minutes to look back through this thread, mounts have been discussed at length at least twice. The Chief is the unanimous choice for many reasons. If you've changed out even one PJ, tried to change even one bulb by yourself, or set up and aligned a new PJ with a Chief after having done any of the same things using other mounts you will understand why Chief is the best mount. Trust us, take the advice.


I have to agree. I went cheap on some other projectors for the past 10 years and the 6050 finally brought me over to the chief life I will never be going back.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

sirius_basterd said:


> Are there alternative ceiling mounts to the Epson CHF4000/45000 that people like for the Epson 5050ub? Ones that lock so you don't accidentally move it when you press the power button etc? And that give you confidence it won't fall on your head?


I use this one and it's great for the money.

Looks like the white one is oos, but they have it in black somewhere on Amazon too.

celexon Universal Projector Ceiling...000T5KMAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HqkwDb1Z095E6


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

Biggydeen said:


> I did use the pattern. And in the beginning, everything looks sharp. But when paying closer attention it's not that sharp at all (there is some coloured haze around the white line). See pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The menu looks sharper but also has a purple/blue/green haze around it when paying close attention.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not use any keystone. Checked it twice, and reset to default just to be sure.
> 
> 
> 
> Made some more pics, see attachment. The most blurry one of the clock is 4k resolution. It's even way more blurry then 1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> I notice when using the panel alignment there is always a purple haze above the white line when looking up close. This haze will only disappear when I align the red color more downwards. But that makes the red line visible so that's not good.
> 
> 
> 
> My phone actually captures more haze (green/red/purple-ish) then I can see on the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> When looking at the letter "t" I can see that the horizontal bar on the t should be 2 pixels wide. Up close it's more like 2 pixels wide and some colored haze on both sides. When I really focus on getting the picture clear I can make it 2 pixels wide but then other uniformity's appear.
> 
> 
> 
> What I find really strange is that the left side of the ^ symbol in the bottom right corner is always blurred. The right side seems kind of straight although somewhat blurry. But the left side of the ^ symbol is completely out of focus.
> 
> 
> 
> I did try all kinds of zooming, lens shifting etc. But the left side of the ^ symbol always stays blurry for some reason.
> 
> 
> 
> Will call Epson right away on Monday.



Make sure that the projector is lined up properly as far as the geometry goes. If it’s tilted in any direction, the edges will not focus as well as the middle.

You can also adjust the convergence with the tool that’s available in the menu.

If the projector is new, maybe you can just return it and get a new one to avoid having to settle for a refurbished unit from Epson through the warranty.

Hope you get this sorted out!


----------



## Porknz

BIC2 said:


> You can stop worrying if you return that $17 mount. You need a safety margin of 4x your weight for hanging stuff. So, if you're hanging 25 lbs, you need a mount rated for at least 100 lbs. Don't cheap out on this. Crashes aren't covered by the warranty. The 6050UB comes with the Chief CHF4000 (or 4500) (available separately from Epson). You can't go wrong with the Epson recommended mount.
> 
> https://epson.com/Accessories/Projector-Accessories/Projector-Ceiling-Mount-Kit/p/CHF4500



Wondering if you know of any other links. This one brings me to an epson page that is almost completely blank. Whenever I try to search the web for the 4500 or 4000, I just keep finding them discontinued.


Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Wondering if you know of any other links. This one brings me to an epson page that is almost completely blank. Whenever I try to search the web for the 4500 or 4000, I just keep finding them discontinued.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1288011-REG/epson_chf4000_universal_projector_ceiling.html


The 4500 is black. The 4000 is white. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

Porknz said:


> Wondering if you know of any other links. This one brings me to an epson page that is almost completely blank. Whenever I try to search the web for the 4500 or 4000, I just keep finding them discontinued.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


I think the 4000 & 4500 are pretty much the same (same install manual). Try searching both on the web.

https://epson.com/Accessories/Projector-Accessories/Projector-Ceiling-Mount-Kit/p/CHF4000

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1288011-REG/epson_chf4000_universal_projector_ceiling.html


----------



## Viche

Biggydeen said:


> I did use the pattern. And in the beginning, everything looks sharp. But when paying closer attention it's not that sharp at all (there is some coloured haze around the white line). See pics.
> 
> 
> 
> The menu looks sharper but also has a purple/blue/green haze around it when paying close attention.
> 
> 
> 
> I did not use any keystone. Checked it twice, and reset to default just to be sure.
> 
> Made some more pics, see attachment. The most blurry one of the clock is 4k resolution. It's even way more blurry then 1080p.
> 
> I notice when using the panel alignment there is always a purple haze above the white line when looking up close. This haze will only disappear when I align the red color more downwards. But that makes the red line visible so that's not good.
> 
> My phone actually captures more haze (green/red/purple-ish) then I can see on the screen.
> 
> When looking at the letter "t" I can see that the horizontal bar on the t should be 2 pixels wide. Up close it's more like 2 pixels wide and some colored haze on both sides. When I really focus on getting the picture clear I can make it 2 pixels wide but then other uniformity's appear.
> 
> What I find really strange is that the left side of the ^ symbol in the bottom right corner is always blurred. The right side seems kind of straight although somewhat blurry. But the left side of the ^ symbol is completely out of focus.
> 
> I did try all kinds of zooming, lens shifting etc. But the left side of the ^ symbol always stays blurry for some reason.
> 
> Will call Epson right away on Monday.


If you've truly adjusted the panel alignment correctly, then that looks like an issue with the lens, sort of like chromatic aberration in a camera lens. What disturbs me is that I thought by getting a 6050, you'd be getting a prohector that had been hand selected and reviewed by Epson including one of their best lenses. How could they have sent one with such an obvious focus issue? When you call them, please ask them to explain how they missed the issue in the review process, and let us know what they say.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Viche said:


> If you've truly adjusted the panel alignment correctly, then that looks like an issue with the lens, sort of like chromatic aberration in a camera lens. What disturbs me is that I thought by getting a 6050, you'd be getting a prohector that had been hand selected and reviewed by Epson including one of their best lenses. How could they have sent one with such an obvious focus issue? When you call them, please ask them to explain how they missed the issue in the review process, and let us know what they say.


Do you really believe they hand select these lenses? Sounds like a bunch of marketing bs. to me. They aren't paying people to go lens by lens and hand pick only the best for the 6050. 0% chance that is happening.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> Do you really believe they hand select these lenses? Sounds like a bunch of marketing bs. to me. They aren't paying people to go lens by lens and hand pick only the best for the 6050. 0% chance that is happening.


Hand selected most definitely not. Wouldn't want to trust lens clarity to a human eye in any case. Absolutely a digital scanner determining which are the higher quality lens and which do not go to the 6050. Anything you buy has a marketing angle even that soft taco from Taco Bell. Quoted contrast is higher on 6050 than the 5050. I owned both. 6050 has a sharper image. Worth the extra money? All depends on your room your budget and your end goal. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> Hand selected most definitely not. Wouldn't want to trust lens clarity to a human eye in any case. Absolutely a digital scanner determining which are the higher quality lens and which do not go to the 6050. Anything you buy has a marketing angle even that soft taco from Taco Bell. Quoted contrast is higher on 6050 than the 5050. I owned both. 6050 has a sharper image. Worth the extra money? All depends on your room your budget and your end goal.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The experience of the 6050 owner above makes me think it's not worth the extra money. The assurance of an optimimum image is what I woukd pay for. It seems that the digital scanner wasn't enough in this case and the blurry human eye review would have been preferable.


----------



## Porknz

BIC2 said:


> You can stop worrying if you return that $17 mount. You need a safety margin of 4x your weight for hanging stuff. So, if you're hanging 25 lbs, you need a mount rated for at least 100 lbs. Don't cheap out on this. Crashes aren't covered by the warranty. The 6050UB comes with the Chief CHF4000 (or 4500) (available separately from Epson). You can't go wrong with the Epson recommended mount.
> 
> https://epson.com/Accessories/Projector-Accessories/Projector-Ceiling-Mount-Kit/p/CHF4500



$300 hurts, but I'm sure it's worth it. Maybe you if you have commercial light hanging expertise you can give me a pointer of two since I'm going to be trying to hang this myself from i-joists...


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> The experience of the 6050 owner above makes me think it's not worth the extra money. The assurance of an optimimum image is what I woukd pay for. It seems that the digital scanner wasn't enough in this case and the blurry human eye review would have been preferable.


Neither one of us know what is wrong with this projector. My friend had to return two Ferraris. It happens . Doesn't mean it is not an amazing car.

Might be a defective lens or it could be numerous other parts that affect the sharpness of the image. Sony and JVC have had sharpness images with projectors costing 4 and 5 times what the 6050 costs. Both make amazing projectors. All manufacturers have quality issues from time to time. That is why they offer a warranty. 

Is it a pain in the butt? Of course it is. I have been through it more with Epson than most projector owners but they always took care of the issue to my satisfaction. No one can guarantee you won't get a lemon when you buy anything. That is why the warranty coverage matters.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## crossrh

Biggydeen, a shot in the dark here, but are you sure your screen is absolutely flat? Depending on how it is mounted, there could be a little torqueing of the frame that could throw off the focus. My new 6050 isn't quite as clear in the upper right and lower left. I plan on looking into my screen mounting, which is certainly susceptible to torqueing, in the morning. I'll pull and push on the corners with the pattern displayed and see if that helps. More to follow.

Rick


----------



## BIC2

Porknz said:


> $300 hurts, but I'm sure it's worth it. Maybe you if you have commercial light hanging expertise you can give me a pointer of two since I'm going to be trying to hang this myself from i-joists...


Just reviewed the Epson CHF4000/4500 instructions. Rating is 50 lbs. Guess Epson doesn't subscribe to the 4x margin of safety theory. I'll be installing my 6050/Chief 4500 in the next week on a 10 ft ceiling. That will be fun.


----------



## Biggydeen

Luminated67 said:


> You need to set up the convergence. Best wait until the pj has been running for 30 minutes plus before setup it up.


Already did that. Will do it again, this time after keeping it running for a while.



Viche said:


> If you've truly adjusted the panel alignment correctly, then that looks like an issue with the lens, sort of like chromatic aberration in a camera lens. What disturbs me is that I thought by getting a 6050, you'd be getting a prohector that had been hand selected and reviewed by Epson including one of their best lenses. How could they have sent one with such an obvious focus issue? When you call them, please ask them to explain how they missed the issue in the review process, and let us know what they say.


Well, i'm not truly sure if I done this correctly. But no matter how much I allign the red or blue color line, there is always some sort of haze around the white line.

Will go trough the process again today.



crossrh said:


> Biggydeen, a shot in the dark here, but are you sure your screen is absolutely flat? Depending on how it is mounted, there could be a little torqueing of the frame that could throw off the focus. My new 6050 isn't quite as clear in the upper right and lower left. I plan on looking into my screen mounting, which is certainly susceptible to torqueing, in the morning. I'll pull and push on the corners with the pattern displayed and see if that helps. More to follow.
> 
> Rick


The screen is probably not absolutlely flat. But my older benq w1070 projetor did not had this problem. So I doubt the screen is the problem.

But will take the PJ down from the shelf. Let it run for a while then do the panel allignent. Hopefully this will give me some better results.

If this doesn't help then I will call Epson tomorrow and ask for a new one. Or maybe they can tell me what to do to fix this.

Thanks for all the help so far!


----------



## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> Neither one of us know what is wrong with this projector. My friend had to return two Ferraris. It happens . Doesn't mean it is not an amazing car.
> 
> Might be a defective lens or it could be numerous other parts that affect the sharpness of the image. Sony and JVC have had sharpness images with projectors costing 4 and 5 times what the 6050 costs. Both make amazing projectors. All manufacturers have quality issues from time to time. That is why they offer a warranty.
> 
> Is it a pain in the butt? Of course it is. I have been through it more with Epson than most projector owners but they always took care of the issue to my satisfaction. No one can guarantee you won't get a lemon when you buy anything. That is why the warranty coverage matters.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I hear you, and let's also hope it's user error, but your analogy doesn't super apply here. It would be more like going to a Ferarri dealer and agreeing to pay an extra $50,000 to make sure you get a cherry picked, better accelerating car from the other models with the same exact parts, only to find out it accelerates worse than 99% of the cars. Then throw in the fact that you have no garage to take it to to have it looked at by a professional, and if you wait past 30 days, they'll send you a used car as a replacement. 

It's just frustrating that there's no real way to know if the extra money you paid (especially if you don't need the mount) toward getting better specs actually paid off or if you are even getting a good performer. @JewDaddy went through several projectors before realizing what these projectors were really capable of.

I'd just like to know where things went wrong. Does the 6050 digital check only apply to lenses? Does it occur after the entire projector is assembled? Is the issue being caused by something that happened after leaving the factory?

Can you use your Epson connections to get us more info on the process?


----------



## Biggydeen

Just finished another convergence round. Took the PJ of the shelf and put it on a table right in front of the screen.

Played some colourfull youtube vids for at least 45min. Then I started the alignment.

Did all the things according to the Epson website. (https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd51848/source/adjustments/tasks/panel_aligning.html) 

Sadly, the alignment is way off. It's just too blurry to make it one straight white line. The following happens:

When adjusting the red line there are multiple rows of pixels being affected (if that makes sense). You can clearly see this in the pictures (see attachment). In one of the pictures, the yellow square has a line of green in it (this should be yellow when perfectly aligned with red). But the red is already pouring out on top. So, when I'm lining up the red with the green to make it yellow the red is even pouring out more.

The problem seems to be that when shifting the red or blue lines multiple rows of pixels are affected. This way I can never perfectly align all three without some purple/blue-ish bleed.

Not sure if I'm doing something wrong but the process seems pretty straight forward. Although may take some time to get them perfectly aligned.

But I still have another problem that does not seem to be related to convergence. The ^ symbol still has a very blurry left side while the right side seems to be more of a straight line (although also somewhat blurry).

How can the left side be totally blurry and pixelated while the right side is completely different? Seems like the lens is projecting a little sideways or something if that makes sense. Although, when looking at the pictures taken with my phone you can clearly see that there is some green/blue bleed causing this pixelation. So might be a convergence problem.

Did multiple setups placing the projector in different angles and using lensshift but that does not help.


----------



## JonfromCB

BIC2 said:


> Just reviewed the Epson CHF4000/4500 instructions. Rating is 50 lbs. Guess Epson doesn't subscribe to the 4x margin of safety theory. I'll be installing my 6050/Chief 4500 in the next week on a 10 ft ceiling. That will be fun.


If I can do it by myself in an 11 foot ceiling, anyone can. lol. You want your "margin of safety" where the mount is secured to the ceiling. Don't expect drywall to reliably bear the load. This probably goes without saying but try to get your anchor/lag screws/bolts into a stud and use anchors/lags with the highest weight rating above 50 lbs each that you can make work...for example; ..say 4 anchors rated above 50 pounds each (or higher). If Tarzan could swing on it, you done good.


----------



## Porknz

JonfromCB said:


> If I can do it by myself in an 11 foot ceiling, anyone can. lol. You want your "margin of safety" where the mount is secured to the ceiling. Don't expect drywall to reliably bear the load. This probably goes without saying but try to get your anchor/lag screws/bolts into a stud and use anchors/lags with the highest weight rating above 50 lbs each that you can make work...for example; ..say 4 anchors rated above 50 pounds each (or higher). If Tarzan could swing on it, you done good.



If I had regular 2x6's or something like that, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm still worried about how to put a lag into an i-joist. I keep watching videos on ways to build frame like structures between two i-joists, but I don't want a 4' x 4' hole in my ceiling either.


----------



## Viche

Biggydeen said:


> Just finished another convergence round. Took the PJ of the shelf and put it on a table right in front of the screen.
> 
> Played some colourfull youtube vids for at least 45min. Then I started the alignment.
> 
> Did all the things according to the Epson website. (https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd51848/source/adjustments/tasks/panel_aligning.html)
> 
> Sadly, the alignment is way off. It's just too blurry to make it one straight white line. The following happens:
> 
> When adjusting the red line there are multiple rows of pixels being affected (if that makes sense). You can clearly see this in the pictures (see attachment). In one of the pictures, the yellow square has a line of green in it (this should be yellow when perfectly aligned with red). But the red is already pouring out on top. So, when I'm lining up the red with the green to make it yellow the red is even pouring out more.
> 
> The problem seems to be that when shifting the red or blue lines multiple rows of pixels are affected. This way I can never perfectly align all three without some purple/blue-ish bleed.
> 
> Not sure if I'm doing something wrong but the process seems pretty straight forward. Although may take some time to get them perfectly aligned.
> 
> But I still have another problem that does not seem to be related to convergence. The ^ symbol still has a very blurry left side while the right side seems to be more of a straight line (although also somewhat blurry).
> 
> How can the left side be totally blurry and pixelated while the right side is completely different? Seems like the lens is projecting a little sideways or something if that makes sense. Although, when looking at the pictures taken with my phone you can clearly see that there is some green/blue bleed causing this pixelation. So might be a convergence problem.
> 
> Did multiple setups placing the projector in different angles and using lensshift but that does not help.


 I bet Epson will just send you a new projector once you show them the pics. Too bad we will never figure out what actually caused the problem. i'd ask them anyway though.


----------



## JonfromCB

Porknz said:


> If I had regular 2x6's or something like that, I wouldn't woy about it. I'm still worried about how to put a lag into an i-joist. I keep watching videos on ways to build frame like structures between two i-joists, but I don't want a 4' x 4' hole in my ceiling either.


Standard I-joist have a 1 1/2h x 2 1/2w top and bottom of wood with a mitered/glued particle board vertical. Align your base plate with the joist so you're not drilling on center and drill slightly undersized holes for your lags no more than 3/4 inch right into the joist, then screw them in no more than 1 inch and you'll be good. You could also put a shot of glue in each hole and on the lag threads before you screw them in. You might have to move your mount forward or back slightly to be centered on a joist, but you shouldn't need to make a big hole in your drywall to build a frame....unless your joists' run parallel with your room and you need a structure to center your mount with your room and screen. Good Luck.


----------



## DunMunro

Porknz said:


> If I had regular 2x6's or something like that, I wouldn't worry about it. I'm still worried about how to put a lag into an i-joist. I keep watching videos on ways to build frame like structures between two i-joists, but I don't want a 4' x 4' hole in my ceiling either.


You have drywall attached to the i-joists?

Take a 3/4in piece of pine shelving or plywood, and cut it to make a mounting plate ~18in x ~12in or more (paint to colour of choice) so that it attaches to at least two joists with at least two ~3in wood screws per joist, and then attach your projector mount to the wood plate with 3/4in wood lag screws. The wooden plate goes on the ceiling and you attach to the joists through the drywall so there's no need to cut the drywall.

I've done this with two projector mounts and it's dead simple and very safe because you have assured attachment to the centre of the joists and the wood plate gives you complete freedom to position the projector.


----------



## BIC2

Just read the Chief 4000/4500 installation instructions. I won't have the mount for a few more days, so I'm asking a bit blind. They want 4 lag bolts, 2 each on two different ceiling joists, 4" apart. Apparently, Epson doesn't know ceiling joists are 16" apart. Guess the other two can be drywall anchors. In the picture below, you are looking from the front to the back of the theater. Lens will be facing towards you. The 2x6 with the receptacles is dead center, side to side.

The first bracket mount picture would be the stronger of the two options shown, but HDMI cable in orange raceway would not line up to go down 3 ft pipe (but maybe it will jog over anyway, can't tell from instructions). The second picture would put HDMI cable over the down-rod pipe, but wouldn't be as strong. I would likely take strength over aesthetics, but it would be nice to run HDMI (and electrical) cable through pipe given the 3 ft length. Any thoughts? Thanks.


----------



## JonfromCB

With no drywall, you have the luxury of several good options. BTW, I like your HDMI conduit...smart move. It should be easy for you to cut a couple of pieces of wood and screw them to the crossmember adjoining the joists and your load will be nicely spread across several joists. If you do it so that you have a solid mounting area, say 6 x 6 where your picture shows your "X" then you can put up your drywall and attach your mounting plate right through the drywall where "x" marks the spot. You can use a cone shaped receptacle in the drywall for your power cord and HDMI and it should be strong functional and look nice. FWIW, running power cords and HDMI down mounting pipes because it can necessitate tight bends of the HDMI where it exits the pipe and can get unnecessarily difficult to change power cords or HDMIs when fished down a mounting pipe. Looks good.


----------



## BIC2

JonfromCB said:


> With no drywall, you have the luxury of several good options. BTW, I like your HDMI conduit...smart move. It should be easy for you to cut a couple of pieces of wood and screw them to the crossmember adjoining the joists and your load will be nicely spread across several joists. If you do it so that you have a solid mounting area, say 6 x 6 where your picture shows your "X" then you can put up your drywall and attach your mounting plate right through the drywall where "x" marks the spot. You can use a cone shaped receptacle in the drywall for your power cord and HDMI and it should be strong functional and look nice. FWIW, running power cords and HDMI down mounting pipes because it can necessitate tight bends of the HDMI where it exits the pipe and can get unnecessarily difficult to change power cords or HDMIs when fished down a mounting pipe. Looks good.


Sorry, my bad. Thought I was on my build thread where people would know I have drywall up. Here's what it looks like now. Ready to go operational in the next few weeks. Good point on running HDMI down pipe. Guess I'll skip that.


----------



## jeahrens

Just reading the last couple of pages and wanted to chime in on the 6050 and its alignment woes. After following JVC's release of their new lineup it's painfully apparent that one of the biggest problems plaguing projectors is shipping. The 6050 in question could have left Epson in perfect shape, but who knows what happened to it before it arrived at the doorstep. JVC America verified each unit prior to shipping, yet some units arrived with the optical block knocked loose which isn't something you just miss (and takes a lot of force to do). Food for thought before throwing Epson under the bus.


----------



## vidwiz

Well heck, finally ready to buy and the price just went up $300. Anyone have any insight as to the next Epson sale?


----------



## --Sclaws

vidwiz said:


> Well heck, finally ready to buy and the price just went up $300. Anyone have any insight as to the next Epson sale?


You might open a chat with a place like Crutchfield and just ask if they would honor the $300 discount...couldn't hurt to ask.


----------



## vidwiz

Yeah thanks, tried that , no go, Epson MAP.


----------



## vidwiz

Followup, interestingly right now Amazon has the ub and the ube for the same price, no other vendors appear to have that which is probably a glitch. Gotta pay tax with them tho dangit.


----------



## CanadaMark

jeahrens said:


> Just reading the last couple of pages and wanted to chime in on the 6050 and its alignment woes. After following JVC's release of their new lineup it's painfully apparent that one of the biggest problems plaguing projectors is shipping. The 6050 in question could have left Epson in perfect shape, but who knows what happened to it before it arrived at the doorstep. JVC America verified each unit prior to shipping, yet some units arrived with the optical block knocked loose which isn't something you just miss (and takes a lot of force to do). Food for thought before throwing Epson under the bus.


Finally someone who thinks like me. I have been saying this for *YEARS* and always seem to be in the minority. Camera equipment, HT gear, other electronics, etc. you name it - anything fragile and/or with tight tolerances sensitive to shock, you don't want it shipped in a conventional manner. People blame the manufacturer for what is likely 99% of the time shipping damage. I often point people to videos of distribution/sorting centers from the major shipping companies, they are ROUGH. There are UPS employees on other forums who have told stories that the best way to unclog a package jam on the conveyor belt is to find a package just the right size, and throw it at the jam. Then it goes in a truck, bounces around, falls over, who knows. Then the delivery courier throws it over your fence and it lands on your concrete step - delivered. That "fragile" sticker you stuck to the box is ignored 100% of the time by everyone who has a package quota to meet.

I've spent decades on camera forums where people are furious that when they send their gear in for repair, the manufacturer claims "impact damage" - guess what, it probably does have it and it very likely got it on the way there. I can sympathize with the customer from the point of view that they don't want to be responsible for the damage, but it's not fair for the manufacturer to be responsible for it either, and the shipping company (who is likely responsible), well good luck getting them to own up to it especially if they didn't pack it (which is also somewhat reasonable). It's a lose-lose-lose scenario.

I prefer buying in person simply because the product most likely came on a pallet, or were at least more carefully handled - of course there are no guarantees but you have much better odds.

I also remember a story ages ago on this very forum I believe, where a certain brand of amplifier was always failing on people. After investigation, they found that every pallet of units was being dropped from the loading dock onto the ground before going into a truck - causing the problems. They stopped doing that and there were no longer issues with the product.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CanadaMark said:


> Finally someone who thinks like me. I have been saying this for *YEARS* and always seem to be in the minority. Camera equipment, HT gear, other electronics, etc. you name it - anything fragile and/or with tight tolerances sensitive to shock, you don't want it shipped in a conventional manner. People blame the manufacturer for what is likely 99% of the time shipping damage. I often point people to videos of distribution/sorting centers from the major shipping companies, they are ROUGH. There are UPS employees on other forums who have told stories that the best way to unclog a package jam on the conveyor belt is to find a package just the right size, and throw it at the jam. Then it goes in a truck, bounces around, falls over, who knows. Then the delivery courier throws it over your fence and it lands on your concrete step - delivered. That "fragile" sticker you stuck to the box is ignored 100% of the time by everyone who has a package quota to meet.
> 
> 
> 
> I've spent decades on camera forums where people are furious that when they send their gear in for repair, the manufacturer claims "impact damage" - guess what, it probably does have it and it very likely got it on the way there. I can sympathize with the customer from the point of view that they don't want to be responsible for the damage, but it's not fair for the manufacturer to be responsible for it either, and the shipping company (who is likely responsible), well good luck getting them to own up to it especially if they didn't pack it (which is also somewhat reasonable). It's a lose-lose-lose scenario.
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer buying in person simply because the product most likely came on a pallet, or were at least more carefully handled - of course there are no guarantees but you have much better odds.
> 
> 
> 
> I also remember a story ages ago on this very forum I believe, where a certain brand of amplifier was always failing on people. After investigation, they found that every pallet of units was being dropped from the loading dock onto the ground before going into a truck - causing the problems. They stopped doing that and there were no longer issues with the product.


I absolutely believe this statement. My first two PB Ultra 16 subwoofers from SVS were DOA due to the amplifier being damaged. Spoke to Gary Yacoubian and he explained they had identified the issue with their shipping carrier who just wasn't equipped to haul and deliver such a massive subwoofer so they actually changed shippers for just the PB Ultra 16. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## AudioVideo007

Hey guys,

Looking into getting the 6050UB as an upgrade from UHD60. I have couple questions.

1. What are good places to get the PJ at a reasonable price and what price would you recommend?
2. What is the best resource for projector calibration. I have had projectors for more than 10 years but never did much of professional calibration and do not have time for a doctorate in audio video but am a tinkerer and tech savvy and can figure out things as long as it's basic or moderate enough.
3. Any suggestions specific to my situation: 
a. 91 inch white screen and 10.5' throw distance.
b. Blacked out room for movies with some ambient light during the day for casual tv watching.
c. Applet TV 4k, Nvidia shield and Xbox One S for UHD blurays. Definitely would like to know if another dedicated player would extract more of PQ from the 6050ub compared to these players I already use.
4. Finally should I just spring for a professional calibration and consultation and what does that normally go for in the NE area?

Thanks for all your help. Been lurking on these forums for years and found a wealth of information.


----------



## carmona

CanadaMark said:


> Finally someone who thinks like me. I have been saying this for *YEARS* and always seem to be in the minority. Camera equipment, HT gear, other electronics, etc. you name it - anything fragile and/or with tight tolerances sensitive to shock, you don't want it shipped in a conventional manner. People blame the manufacturer for what is likely 99% of the time shipping damage. I often point people to videos of distribution/sorting centers from the major shipping companies, they are ROUGH. There are UPS employees on other forums who have told stories that the best way to unclog a package jam on the conveyor belt is to find a package just the right size, and throw it at the jam. Then it goes in a truck, bounces around, falls over, who knows. Then the delivery courier throws it over your fence and it lands on your concrete step - delivered. That "fragile" sticker you stuck to the box is ignored 100% of the time by everyone who has a package quota to meet.
> 
> I've spent decades on camera forums where people are furious that when they send their gear in for repair, the manufacturer claims "impact damage" - guess what, it probably does have it and it very likely got it on the way there. I can sympathize with the customer from the point of view that they don't want to be responsible for the damage, but it's not fair for the manufacturer to be responsible for it either, and the shipping company (who is likely responsible), well good luck getting them to own up to it especially if they didn't pack it (which is also somewhat reasonable). It's a lose-lose-lose scenario.
> 
> I prefer buying in person simply because the product most likely came on a pallet, or were at least more carefully handled - of course there are no guarantees but you have much better odds.
> 
> I also remember a story ages ago on this very forum I believe, where a certain brand of amplifier was always failing on people. After investigation, they found that every pallet of units was being dropped from the loading dock onto the ground before going into a truck - causing the problems. They stopped doing that and there were no longer issues with the product.


If an item can be shipped by USPS and it is mechanically fragile to impact, I request the yellow SPECIAL HANDLING label. The cost is about $10, and I believe it to be worth this added expense. While sturdy and secure packing and padding may protect glass and other physically fragile objects, it often does not protect complex mechanical and optical devices against acceleration-deceleration events (dropping, falling down a conveyor belt, shifting atop a pile of packages on a truck, etc.) which can occur during the "normal" shipping process. Packages marked with this labeled are purportedly handled in a manner to avoid rough transport.


----------



## CanadaMark

carmona said:


> If an item can be shipped by USPS and it is mechanically fragile to impact, I request the yellow SPECIAL HANDLING label. The cost is about $10, and I believe it to be worth this added expense. While sturdy and secure packing and padding may protect glass and other physically fragile objects, it often does not protect complex mechanical and optical devices against acceleration-deceleration events (dropping, falling down a conveyor belt, shifting atop a pile of packages on a truck, etc.) which can occur during the "normal" shipping process. Packages marked with this labeled are purportedly handled in a manner to avoid rough transport.


According to people who work for various carriers that I have talked to over the years, the "fragile" or "special handling" labels are ignored 99% of the time because they have package quotas to hit, and there is nothing that can be traced back to the individual employee should an item arrive damaged, so there is no accountability. It's unfortunate for sure, but not hard to believe these days. It doesn't mean they will purposely destroy your package, it just means it isn't likely to be treated any differently than a normal package despite the special labeling.


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## latet

CanadaMark said:


> According to people who work for various carriers that I have talked to over the years, the "fragile" or "special handling" labels are ignored 99% of the time because they have package quotas to hit, and there is nothing that can be traced back to the individual employee should an item arrive damaged, so there is no accountability. It's unfortunate for sure, but not hard to believe these days. It doesn't mean they will purposely destroy your package, it just means it isn't likely to be treated any differently than a normal package.


That's pretty sad! I'm none too thrilled with the Amazon delivery people since they switched to their own either. And that's because they have quotas to hit and they just don't care. I know my UPS driver by sight and he has always taken care of things delivered to me.


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## dr bill

carmona said:


> If an item can be shipped by USPS and it is mechanically fragile to impact, I request the yellow SPECIAL HANDLING label. The cost is about $10, and I believe it to be worth this added expense. While sturdy and secure packing and padding may protect glass and other physically fragile objects, it often does not protect complex mechanical and optical devices against acceleration-deceleration events (dropping, falling down a conveyor belt, shifting atop a pile of packages on a truck, etc.) which can occur during the "normal" shipping process. Packages marked with this labeled are purportedly handled in a manner to avoid rough transport.


Interesting timing of this discussion:

I just received my refurbished 5050 today, to replace my defective 5050.

The refurb came in an Epson box with minimal-moderate packaging/cushioning. So, we'll see how this one does... Off to install, level, change initial settings, etc.


----------



## reechings

How is the 5050/6050 for gaming? I have seen people reporting that the visual difference between eshift and native 4K is a lot more noticeable on 4K gaming than with video sources. Thanks

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

Kelvin1000 said:


> My apologies if I did not express myself correctly. I am in no way implying that fiber optic HDMI cables don’t work. I am simply stating that after having exhausted many possibilities, my particular setup only works reliably with standard HDMI cables.
> 
> If you take a look at my original post below, you will notice that I have tried many different methods trying to identify the problem.
> 
> It is also possible that the projector HDMI circuitry is the culprit, but I am going to try another Active HDMI cable from BJC to see if that makes a difference:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will post my findings upon further testing.
> 
> Thanks to all!
> 
> THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread
> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh.../forum/showthread.php?p=58403966&share_type=t




Update: Good news!

I have been testing the 40 foot BJC Active HDMI cable for several days and it has been working flawlessly on all inputs and sources with and without the AV receiver.

It is able to display full 4K 60HZ HDR 4:2:2 as well as every other signal with no issues whatsoever.

Very happy that I found a solution to this problem!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kelvin1000 said:


> Update: Good news!
> 
> I have been testing the 40 foot BJC Active HDMI cable for several days and it has been working flawlessly on all inputs and sources with and without the AV receiver.
> 
> It is able to display full 4K 60HZ HDR 4:2:2 as well as every other signal with no issues whatsoever.
> 
> Very happy that I found a solution to this problem!


That is great news for you!!! You had been having such a difficult time finding a cable that worked. Now you can get back to enjoying your projector instead if being tech support for yourself. Enjoy!!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

CanadaMark said:


> I prefer buying in person simply because the product most likely came on a pallet, or were at least more carefully handled - of course there are no guarantees but you have much better odds.


Maybe if you're buying from some mega-dealer. I'd guess your average AV retailer carries little stock of expensive items and most items are probably shipped to the dealer the same way online dealers ship to us. I just looked at Best Buy for the Epson 5050. It's not stocked at any of the several stores in Kansas City. Can ship to home or store. Either way, it's going to be shipped somehow as a single unit.


----------



## MattyGS

CallingMrBenzo said:


> So you think you deserve a 6050 ? Interesting....I’m on my fourth 5050UB and I don’t deserve one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Fourth? Why so many?


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

MattyGS said:


> Fourth? Why so many?




Search the the thread or better yet read the thread and find your answers.


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## sirius_basterd

For the Epson 5050 in a room with poor light control during the day, mostly watching at night (but with white walls etc!) should I get a white screen, a grey, or a dark grey (high contrast) screen? Looking at Silver Ticket screens, and I don't want to get an ALR screen.


----------



## biglen

I bought a 35' HDMI cable from Amazon, and I just hooked it up to my 5050. I'm getting a picture, so does that mean I'm good, or can you get a picture, and not be getting a full 4k signal?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## CanadaMark

sirius_basterd said:


> For the Epson 5050 in a room with poor light control during the day, mostly watching at night (but with white walls etc!) should I get a white screen, a grey, or a dark grey (high contrast) screen? Looking at Silver Ticket screens, and I don't want to get an ALR screen.


I demo'd a 6040 on the weekend and it was in a fairly small all-white painted room with low ceilings (ceiling white too). We had full light control though. Screen was white too (Grandview). It honestly looked stunning, tons of punch and blacks seemed like they couldn't get much deeper. I am sure if the room was covered in black velvet it would be a bit better but I really don't think you are going to be missing out too much by just putting in a white screen. Grey screens are an eye-sore when not in use in my opinion, which is an issue for some (subjective). For those of us without the luxury of a dedicated theater room and have to use the projector in a bonus room or main basement area, I think you'll be fine with white.


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## mach250

biglen said:


> I bought a 35' HDMI cable from Amazon, and I just hooked it up to my 5050. I'm getting a picture, so does that mean I'm good, or can you get a picture, and not be getting a full 4k signal?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk



I suppose it all depends on if your source is pushing higher than 8 bit 4:2:0


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I bought a 35' HDMI cable from Amazon, and I just hooked it up to my 5050. I'm getting a picture, so does that mean I'm good, or can you get a picture, and not be getting a full 4k signal?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


You should be using the projector display info from the menu. For a 60 hz signal test try watching HDR content from Netflix like The Highwaymen movie. Color depth should display 12 bit 4:2:2. Color format should display BT.2020 HDR10. When viewing the typical 4K disc through a UHD player it should be color depth 12 bit 4:4:4. Color format should display BT.2020 HDR10. 60HZ is also known as frames per second or FPS. If you get 60 HZ you can be assured your cable is capable of 18GBPS which is one of the main streaming differences between the 5040 and the 5050. Depending upon your streaming device and streaming service it might be 24FPS 30FPS OR 60FPS. not all devices or services stream in 60FPS. On my Roku Ultra player Netflix streams HDR content at 60FPS. same with Prime Video. VUDU 4K HDR streams at 24FPS which displays on the projector at 24 Hz. First pic is Vudu 4k HDR movie. Second pic is Netflix 4K HDR MOVIE. Third pic is 4K HDR disc. Now another thing is some streaming 4K movies don't include HDR DATA so they would just be formatted as SDR COLOR DATA. Not many but some.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## drober30

biglen said:


> I bought a 35' HDMI cable from Amazon, and I just hooked it up to my 5050. I'm getting a picture, so does that mean I'm good, or can you get a picture, and not be getting a full 4k signal?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Yes, you could hook up a 1080p HDMI cable and get a picture so it is a good idea to check what your actual resolution is. 

The projector settings menu should report what your resolution is.


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## skylarlove1999

CanadaMark said:


> I demo'd a 6040 on the weekend and it was in a fairly small all-white painted room with low ceilings (ceiling white too). We had full light control though. Screen was white too (Grandview). It honestly looked stunning, tons of punch and blacks seemed like they couldn't get much deeper. I am sure if the room was covered in black velvet it would be a bit better but I really don't think you are going to be missing out too much by just putting in a white screen. Grey screens are an eye-sore when not in use in my opinion, which is an issue for some (subjective). For those of us without the luxury of a dedicated theater room and have to use the projector in a bonus room or main basement area, I think you'll be fine with white.


It is hard not to be impressed by a large bright image regardless of the screen and room conditions. But make no mistake about it your picture quality will suffer due to ambient light and light being reflected back onto the screen from bright surfaces such as white walls and white ceilings. Even if you can control ambient light by turning off lights and closing blinds your screen will send light out to the walls and ceilings and white living room walls and ceilings will send a good amount of light back onto the screen degrading your perceived contrast. ALR screens were designed for living room situations. You will give up some accurate color representation with an ALR screen but I doubt you would notice. You will notice color washout from light reflecting back onto your white screen from your white walls and white ceiling even when the room is completely dark. Velvet is best but even painting the walls a dark matte color will improve things quite a bit. But I think white walls and ceilings require an ALR SCREEN. Contrast is greatly improved as is the overall image quality.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

CanadaMark said:


> I demo'd a 6040 on the weekend and it was in a fairly small all-white painted room with low ceilings (ceiling white too). We had full light control though. Screen was white too (Grandview). It honestly looked stunning, tons of punch and blacks seemed like they couldn't get much deeper. I am sure if the room was covered in black velvet it would be a bit better


LOL, I’ve went through the whole process of converting dark grey walls and ceiling to black velour and the different is shocking so I can tell you the difference with a white room would be staggering.


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## reechings

Luminated67 said:


> LOL, I’ve went through the whole process of converting dark grey walls and ceiling to black velour and the different is shocking so I can tell you the difference with a white room would be staggering.


Yeah I think once I move in to the new place that I will do the black velvet treatment and see what my Epson 3100 looks like then make a decision on my next projector.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

sirius_basterd said:


> For the Epson 5050 in a room with poor light control during the day, mostly watching at night (but with white walls etc!) should I get a white screen, a grey, or a dark grey (high contrast) screen? Looking at Silver Ticket screens, and I don't want to get an ALR screen.


This is a good article about ALR screens. I would not go with a white screen in your situation. You have too much light coming in and too many reflections from your walls and ceilings for a white screen to compliment the Epson 5050. 

https://www.projectorcentral.com/ambient-light-rejection-screens-2.htm

I would highly consider an ALR screen under your room conditions. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> You should be using the projector display info from the menu. For a 60 hz signal test try watching HDR content from Netflix like The Highwaymen movie. Color depth should display 12 bit 4:2:2. Color format should display BT.2020 HDR10. When viewing the typical 4K disc through a UHD player it should be color depth 12 bit 4:4:4. Color format should display BT.2020 HDR10. 60HZ is also known as frames per second or FPS. If you get 60 HZ you can be assured your cable is capable of 18GBPS which is one of the main streaming differences between the 5040 and the 5050. Depending upon your streaming device and streaming service it might be 24FPS 30FPS OR 60FPS. not all devices or services stream in 60FPS. On my Roku Ultra player Netflix streams HDR content at 60FPS. same with Prime Video. VUDU 4K HDR streams at 24FPS which displays on the projector at 24 Hz. First pic is Vudu 4k HDR movie. Second pic is Netflix 4K HDR MOVIE. Third pic is 4K HDR disc. Now another thing is some streaming 4K movies don't include HDR DATA so they would just be formatted as SDR COLOR DATA. Not many but some.
> 
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> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


This is what I'm getting when watching The Highwaymen.









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> This is what I'm getting when watching The Highwaymen.
> 
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> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


What streaming device are you using? What is your receiver brand and model? 

The good news is that are definitely getting 60 FPS/HZ. So I am fairly certain your cable is capable of supporting all the Epson color depths and color formats. 

The movie should be 12 bit 4:2:2 so either your source device or receiver isn't capable or there are some settings in the projector and your receiver that might need some adjusting. 

On the projector under Signal>Advanced>EDID it should be set to expanded. Some people have stated Expanded settings causes too long of a delay when they switch sources devices or even simply change from one title to another within that source device. 

I would say a 5 to 10 second delay is pretty normal but some people have reported over 30 second delay. All depends on how nicely your components interact with each other. 










Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> What streaming device are you using? What is your receiver brand and model?
> 
> The good news is that are definitely getting 60 FPS/HZ. So I am fairly certain your cable is capable of supporting all the Epson color depths and color formats.
> 
> The movie should be 12 bit 4:2:2 so either your source device or receiver isn't capable or there are some settings in the projector and your receiver that might need some adjusting.
> 
> On the projector under Signal>Advanced>EDID it should be set to expanded. Some people have stated Expanded settings causes too long of a delay when they switch sources devices or even simply change from one title to another within that source device.
> 
> I would say a 5 to 10 second delay is pretty normal but some people have reported over 30 second delay. All depends on how nicely your components interact with each other.
> 
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> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'm using an Xfinity 4k box to stream Netflix, and the projector is set to Expanded. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> This is what I'm getting when watching The Highwaymen.
> 
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> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


https://www.techhive.com/article/171223/10_bit_color.html

Great article about why 8, 10 and 12 bit matter

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I'm using an Xfinity 4k box to stream Netflix, and the projector is set to Expanded.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


The Xfinity 4k box playback should automatically default to the appropriate 4K color depth based on your display device capabilities. The 5050 is capable of 12bit 4:4:4 which is from a UHD disc. Streaming formats are never that high. They are usually 12bit 4:2:2 or 12bit 4:2:0. So I am not sure why you are getting 10 bit . Could be a receiver setting or the HDMI cable is only capable of 10 bit or could just be Netflix through Xfinity is limited to 10bit. Do you have a UHD player yet? That way you could pop in a disc and narrow down what is going on. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> https://www.techhive.com/article/171223/10_bit_color.html
> 
> Great article about why 8, 10 and 12 bit matter
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I also have an Nvidia Shield, and I tried setting it to a 12 bit setting. It keeps reverting back to the 10 bit setting. Could that mean my HDMI cable doesn't support 12 bit?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

As far as a receiver, I have the S710W, and here are the specs, so I think I'm good there.









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I also have an Nvidia Shield, and I tried setting it to a 12 bit setting. It keeps reverting back to the 10 bit setting. Could that mean my HDMI cable doesn't support 12 bit?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


If you are familiar with your Nvidia Shield and know how to get 12bit from it then I would say there is a setting in your receiver that needs to be adjusted or the cable doesn't support 12bit. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I also have an Nvidia Shield, and I tried setting it to a 12 bit setting. It keeps reverting back to the 10 bit setting. Could that mean my HDMI cable doesn't support 12 bit?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


As I am sure you are aware if everything in your chain doesn't support 12bit then it will default to whatever the lowest supported bit rate of your components. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> As I am sure you are aware if everything in your chain doesn't support 12bit then it will default to whatever the lowest supported bit rate of your components.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


You have a Best Buy pretty close by in Limerick. You could buy a UHD player and you can always return it. Buy a 4K HDR disc and see if you get 12bit 4:4:4. You could also try running your Nvidia Shield directly to the projector using the HDMI CABLE and see if you get 12bit. If you get 12bit when bypassing your receiver then it is not the cable it is your receiver. What is your receiver?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> You have a Best Buy pretty close by in Limerick. You could buy a UHD player and you can always return it. Buy a 4K HDR disc and see if you get 12bit 4:4:4. You could also try running your Nvidia Shield directly to the projector using the HDMI CABLE and see if you get 12bit. If you get 12bit when bypassing your receiver then it is not the cable it is your receiver. What is your receiver?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Denon S710W









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> As far as a receiver, I have the S710W, and here are the specs, so I think I'm good there.
> 
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> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Under video settings in your S710W do you have the 4K Signal Format set to Enhanced? I agree that reciever should pass any of the current color depth and color space formats.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Denon S710W
> 
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> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


This is the troubleshooting section for your issue from the Denon website. My educated guess at this point is the HDMI CABLE is limited to 10bit.

https://denon-uk.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4377/~/hdr-passthrough-not-working

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> This is the troubleshooting section for your issue from the Denon website. My educated guess at this point is the HDMI CABLE is limited to 10bit.
> 
> https://denon-uk.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4377/~/hdr-passthrough-not-working
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


This is the cable I got from Amazon. I'm almost positive it's the cable. I didn't realize there were certain things that some 4k cables can do, or not do. 

4K HDMI Cable, HDMI Cord (35 feet HDMI to HDMI, Top Series) supports ([email protected], 1080p FullHD, UHD, Ultra HD, 3D, High Speed with Ethernet, ARC, PS4, XBOX, HDTV) by KabelDirekt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008U7SLEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k6BxDb9FTVR8B

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> This is the cable I got from Amazon. I'm almost positive it's the cable. I didn't realize there were certain things that some 4k cables can do, or not do.
> 
> 4K HDMI Cable, HDMI Cord (35 feet HDMI to HDMI, Top Series) supports ([email protected], 1080p FullHD, UHD, Ultra HD, 3D, High Speed with Ethernet, ARC, PS4, XBOX, HDTV) by KabelDirekt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008U7SLEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k6BxDb9FTVR8B
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


This is the cable I use. I have had zero issues. Seems like a lot of money and it is. But it was definitely worth it. Just cut out coffee for a couple of months. 

https://www.amazon.com/50ft-FURUI-B...38&s=gateway&sprefix=furui+&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> This is the cable I use. I have had zero issues. Seems like a lot of money and it is. But it was definitely worth it. Just cut out coffee for a couple of months.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/50ft-FURUI-B...38&s=gateway&sprefix=furui+&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


This is a review from the cable I have. I didn't know I had to look for 4:4:4









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> This is a review from the cable I have. I didn't know I had to look for 4:4:4
> 
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> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


IMHO anything beyond 25 ft you should use fiber optic HDMI cable to ensure you are getting the signal to your projector for which you paid

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> IMHO anything beyond 25 ft you should use fiber optic HDMI cable to ensure you are getting the signal to your projector for which you paid
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I ordered the one you have. I'll let you know how it works when I get it Friday. Thanks !

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I ordered the one you have. I'll let you know how it works when I get it Friday. Thanks !
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I have the Denon 6500 which should share many of those same internal components as your receiver. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## MississippiMan

biglen said:


> I ordered the one you have. I'll let you know how it works when I get it Friday. Thanks !
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk





DON"T DO IT...cancel that order!


You don't have to spend that much.....here is one, a Fiber Optic HDMI* I have used repeatedly*.... at 33' for just barely over 1/3rd the cost. Shoot...you can get a 49'er for only $5.00 more!


*https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C26NVWT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1*




I thought I had you better learned that that.......
The prices of Fiber Optic HDMI Cords are downward mobile......you just gotta know where to snatch 'em up.

Don't jerk a knee at the first suggestion......ask and ye shall be illuminated!


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## MississippiMan

@biglen


You got snookered! But take some comfort in the knowledge that many, MANY others fall afoul of oblique wording and outright false claims.


If a Cable doesn't have a HDMI Certified Scan Tag "ON THE PACKAGE" ....that it ain't......


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## biglen

MississippiMan said:


> DON"T DO IT...cancel that order!
> 
> 
> You don't have to spend that much.....here is one, a Fiber Optic HDMI* I have used repeatedly*.... at 33' for just barely over 1/3rd the cost. Shoot...you can get a 49'er for only $5.00 more!
> 
> 
> *https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C26NVWT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I had you better learned that that.......
> The prices of Fiber Optic HDMI Cords are downward mobile......you just gotta know where to snatch 'em up.
> 
> Don't jerk a knee at the first suggestion......ask and ye shall be illuminated!


I know people have been struggling to find longer length HDMI cables that do full 4k, so when someone said they found one that worked properly, I ordered it because it's been confirmed as working properly. I cancelled it, and ordered the one you suggested. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

MississippiMan said:


> DON"T DO IT...cancel that order!
> 
> 
> You don't have to spend that much.....here is one, a Fiber Optic HDMI* I have used repeatedly*.... at 33' for just barely over 1/3rd the cost. Shoot...you can get a 49'er for only $5.00 more!
> 
> 
> *https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C26NVWT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I had you better learned that that.......
> The prices of Fiber Optic HDMI Cords are downward mobile......you just gotta know where to snatch 'em up.
> 
> Don't jerk a knee at the first suggestion......ask and ye shall be illuminated!


You are definitely the king of awesome AV on a very discerning budget. I did originally try the Fiber Optic HDMI cable you suggested but alas the signal cut in and out too much for me to use it. I am glad it has worked out for you. It can never hurt to try the cheaper chicken. Thanks for your recommendation. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> You are definitely the king of awesome AV on a very discerning budget. I did originally try the Fiber Optic HDMI cable you suggested but alas the signal cut in and out too much for me to use it. I am glad it has worked out for you. It can never hurt to try the cheaper chicken. Thanks for your recommendation.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I figured I'd give it a shot, because it has free returns. I have nothing to lose. I'll let you know if it works for me. Thanks for your help !

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I figured I'd give it a shot, because it has free returns. I have nothing to lose. I'll let you know if it works for me. Thanks for your help !
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


If it works you saved around $100. That is a savings you could put towards a UHD player so definitely nothing to sneeze at. I really hope it works for you.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Kelvin1000

biglen said:


> I figured I'd give it a shot, because it has free returns. I have nothing to lose. I'll let you know if it works for me. Thanks for your help !
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk




This active HDMI cable worked great for me:


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## Biggydeen

Update on the convergence issues I had:

Had contact with Epson. They can't do much about it. They said if the panel alignment does not work then there is probably something wrong with the optics.

Within 30 days of purchase the DOA procedure can be started. Which means you can send the projector back to the seller and get a new one.

Just sended mine (tw9400) back to the seller this week. Expecting a new one next week.


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## Luminated67

I can't understand why when purchasing a projector at $3K anyone would try a skimp on the HDMI cable feeding it  like it's not that $50-70 is a lot of money in the grand scheme of things.

When buying a 4K capable projector and your lead is beyond 5M.



*BUY A BLOODY OPTI-HDMI *


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## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> I can't understand why when purchasing a projector at $3K anyone would try a skimp on the HDMI cable feeding it  like it's not that $50-70 is a lot of money in the grand scheme of things.
> 
> 
> 
> When buying a 4K capable projector and your lead is beyond 5M.
> 
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> *BUY A BLOODY OPTI-HDMI *


I wasn't aware that there was a big difference in 4k HDMI cables. I went on Amazon, and found one that had great reviews. I wasn't trying to "skimp" on the price, I was trying to find one with great reviews. My biggest fault, was not knowing that some were capable of doing more than others. Just because something costs more, doesn't necessarily mean it's better, was my thought process. Monster has been gouging people for years with their high priced cables, and they are no better than some cables that are 1/3 their price. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I wasn't aware that there was a big difference in 4k HDMI cables. I went on Amazon, and found one that had great reviews. I wasn't trying to "skimp" on the price, I was trying to find one with great reviews. My biggest fault, was not knowing that some were capable of doing more than others. Just because something costs more, doesn't necessarily mean it's better, was my thought process. Monster has been gouging people for years with their high priced cables, and they are no better than some cables that are 1/3 their price.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


No a dig at anyone just a general comment, the problem with reviews is it includes all sizes rather than the particular one you have highlighted.


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## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> No a dig at anyone just a general comment, the problem with reviews is it includes all sizes rather than the particular one you have highlighted.


Yes HDMI cable reviews on Amazon should be specific to the exact size. Most six foot cables exhibit very similar performance but once you get to beyond 20 ft the results become very hit or miss. Even within the same size and same brand their is inconsistency. It truly is frustrating. The higher price doesn't guarantee performance but from personal experience I do believe there is a higher percentage for successful handshake and 4K/60FPS 12bit 4:4:4 BT.2020 HDR10 performance. It is usually true that you get what you pay for. Finding that budget cable that works is a time consuming process. Thanks to all who post cables that work, regardless of price.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> No a dig at anyone just a general comment, the problem with reviews is it includes all sizes rather than the particular one you have highlighted.


I didn't take it as a dig. I was just pointing out my thought process. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## mach250

I went from THIS CABLE to THIS CABLE. First one would give me pink and green dots with anything above 4:2:0 60hz, second one is perfect at any color depth. I would say anything above 10-15 feet needs to be optical.








skylarlove1999 said:


> The Xfinity 4k box playback should automatically default to the appropriate 4K color depth based on your display device capabilities. The 5050 is capable of 12bit 4:4:4 which is from a UHD disc. Streaming formats are never that high. They are usually 12bit 4:2:2 or 12bit 4:2:0. So I am not sure why you are getting 10 bit . Could be a receiver setting or the HDMI cable is only capable of 10 bit or could just be Netflix through Xfinity is limited to 10bit. Do you have a UHD player yet? That way you could pop in a disc and narrow down what is going on.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I don't think I'm able to get 12bit 4:4:4 from my PC with a 1080 nvidia card.


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## Luminated67

mach250 said:


> I went from THIS CABLE to THIS CABLE. First one would give me pink and green dots with anything above 4:2:0 60hz, second one is perfect at any color depth. I would say anything above 10-15 feet needs to be optical.
> 
> 
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> 
> I don't think I'm able to get 12bit 4:4:4 from my PC with a 1080 nvidia card.


That Opti HDMI is actually more than 2.5 times the price of mine. There’s a vast difference in price of these leads, but from what I have read is that with Opti leads it will either work perfectly or it won’t and this is purely down to how careful you are with the fitment.


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## BIC2

*PJ at top or center of screen*

Setting up new Epson 6050 with lots of lens shift available. 10 ft ceiling, 7 ft top of screen. Adjustable 2-3 ft extension down rod. Centered side wall to wall. 17 ft throw. 2:35 screen 135-145 inches wide x 60 high.

I've read PJ should be at top of screen and I've read PJ should be centered on screen. I can pretty much do either in the upper one-third of screen. Which is preferable? Thanks.


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## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> Setting up new Epson 6050 with lots of lens shift available. 10 ft ceiling, 7 ft top of screen. Adjustable 2-3 ft extension down rod. Centered side wall to wall. 17 ft throw. 2:35 screen 135-145 inches wide x 60 high.
> 
> 
> 
> I've read PJ should be at top of screen and I've read PJ should be centered on screen. I can pretty much do either in the upper one-third of screen. Which is preferable? Thanks.


Centered in the middle of your screen both vertically and horizontally is supposedly best for image quality. Obviously not practical for 99% of the population. Centered horizontally and hanging about six inches to a foot down from the top of your screen will give you fantastic results. I haven't found lens shift vertically or horizontally to have a negative impact on the image for my Epson projectors through the past 10 years. I have my 6050 centered horizontally and a foot down into my screen vertically. There are some lens shift limitations when you use both at the same time but only at the upper recommended usage.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## MississippiMan

skylarlove1999 said:


> You are definitely the king of awesome AV on a very discerning budget. I did originally try the Fiber Optic HDMI cable you suggested but alas the signal cut in and out too much for me to use it. I am glad it has worked out for you. It can never hurt to try the cheaper chicken. Thanks for your recommendation.



Your welcome. I certainly did not mean to discount the recommendation you made. That it too does the job intended is probably a given thing. Indeed, I am always trying to cut costs but without cutting corners, so when I do suggest a viable, less expensive alternative, it's only one that I myself have used "repeatedly" and can personally vouchsafe. It doesn't take but a few coming back on the Threads and saying "That was crap" to effectively put all one's suggestions to question.





biglen said:


> I figured I'd give it a shot, because it has free returns. I have nothing to lose. I'll let you know if it works for me. Thanks for your help !



Exactly the right outlook to take...iffin' you are a Prime'r. I found the suggested FO-HDMI to be very flexible and forgiving...well protected from kinking. People do have issues when too many bends...even sweeping ones...are made. Any FO line loses Light signal pass-through efficiency when it must pass through repeated bends. And when the efficiency is a dpendent factor as far as consistantly maintaining the speed and signal level of a transmission, all the advantages of having a FO-HDMI can come to naught.




skylarlove1999 said:


> If it works you saved around $100. That is a savings you could put towards a UHD player so definitely nothing to sneeze at. I really hope it works for you.



Again....the 100.00 saved is not chicken feed, and when one does find they both saved a lot as well as met their goals, the satisfaction index rises almost exponentially.
(............I hope it works for him too !!!........it better! )


@Kelvin1000



For many who have a 5040ub, what with it's limited non-18 gb Input abilities, the pursuit of Active cords has been a solution as well as a Rabbit Hole. Actives are among the most "Crap-shoot" type, some...if indeed many working wondermusly...others failing. (usually because someone presses the limits of reasonable sanity with 45'-50 ' + runs )


I've advocated the use of Cable Matters Certified 4K HDMI cords for about 3 yrs now...and over that time and in at least 30+ installations, only had one that didn't live up to my expectations. (...and that only recently...) A 25'er is a few dollars under 25.00 and it too is a "Prime" offering so there is little risk for A-Prime buyers to be concerned about.

*https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Premium-Certified-Support/dp/B06XS6HYJW/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=Cable+Matters+4K+HDMI+Cord&qid=1566476664&s=electronics&sr=1-28 
*


But beyond the 25' limit, the scramble to get the most 4K performance "Bang" for the least "Buck" has been at the forefront of many a Member's concerns. That accounts for why so many will rush to purchase any Cable someone touts as being "the one worth the money". It's been that way for sometime...all the way back to the days when HDMI was "new"*.*


So it is a good thing you have vetted a Active HDMI cord that works as claimed.As such it is another viable alternativeand I'm sure many will be happy to know of it.

As for myself, now that there is a dependable and affordable FO-HDMI available....I'll not look backwards to a Wire-based cord. Especially since I'm primarily installing *JVC* units, both E-Shift and Native 4K'ers, both that absolutely require pristine 18 gb pass-through..


----------



## BIC2

Tried it at about 1 ft down from top. Image beamed a foot or two up on the ceiling. I quickly changed the pitch to correct, but now PJ is pointing down a bit. Presume I want PJ level and use vertical lens shift instead of pitch? Thanks.


----------



## Rob Greer

I've been trying to add my new 6050 to my Harmony Elite remote, but that model projector isn't listed as available. Harmony was once be pretty good about adding mainstream gear quickly, but the 6050 isn't on the list--at least for what I'm entering. Any suggestions short of manually adding the remote features to Harmony? Am I not entering the model number info correctly? TIA


----------



## --Sclaws

Rob Greer said:


> I've been trying to add my new 6050 to my Harmony Elite remote, but that model projector isn't listed as available. Harmony was once be pretty good about adding mainstream gear quickly, but the 6050 isn't on the list--at least for what I'm entering. Any suggestions short of manually adding the remote features to Harmony? Am I not entering the model number info correctly? TIA


Iirc I used the 5040 profile for my 5050. The HDR button was the only one I had to add manually.


----------



## Mike Garrett

BIC2 said:


> Tried it at about 1 ft down from top. Image beamed a foot or two up on the ceiling. I quickly changed the pitch to correct, but now PJ is pointing down a bit. Presume I want PJ level and use vertical lens shift instead of pitch? Thanks.


Yes, projector should be pointed straight ahead and you use lens shift to adjust the image height.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Mike Garrett said:


> Yes, projector should be pointed straight ahead and you use lens shift to adjust the image height.


The projector should be level with Earth and use the vertical shift to move the image up and down

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

--Sclaws said:


> Iirc I used the 5040 profile for my 5050. The HDR button was the only one I had to add manually.


I think the 5050 profiles available in the Harmony remote

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

I'm confused about 4k Enhancement. It's grayed out with my Xfinity box, and my Nvidia Shield. Both are set to output 4k, so I'm assuming that's why it's grayed out? Does that mean the projector is outputting 4k, or no? Should I set the Xfinity box and Nvidia Shield to output in 1080p, then turn on 4k Enhancement?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Cattledog

biglen said:


> I'm confused about 4k Enhancement. It's grayed out with my Xfinity box, and my Nvidia Shield. Both are set to output 4k, so I'm assuming that's why it's grayed out? Does that mean the projector is outputting 4k, or no? Should I set the Xfinity box and Nvidia Shield to output in 1080p, then turn on 4k Enhancement?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


A 4k signal is 8 million pixels. The Epson can only do 4 million. So no need to e shift. What it is doing is down-resing the signal.


----------



## biglen

Okay, so when I set my Nvidia Shield to 1080p instead of 4K, I'm now getting 12 bit 4:2:2 when watching Netflix. If I switch the Shield back to 4K, I only get 10 bit. Does that make sense?









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Okay, so when I set my Nvidia Shield to 1080p instead of 4K, I'm now getting 12 bit 4:2:2 when watching Netflix. If I switch the Shield back to 4K, I only get 10 bit. Does that make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Doesn't make sense to me. Did you get the new cable yet?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Okay, so when I set my Nvidia Shield to 1080p instead of 4K, I'm now getting 12 bit 4:2:2 when watching Netflix. If I switch the Shield back to 4K, I only get 10 bit. Does that make sense?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Does the 10bit still give you BT.2020 HDR10? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Does the 10bit still give you BT.2020 HDR10?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 This is Netflix on my Xfinity box. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

biglen said:


> I'm confused about 4k Enhancement. It's grayed out with my Xfinity box, and my Nvidia Shield. Both are set to output 4k, so I'm assuming that's why it's grayed out? Does that mean the projector is outputting 4k, or no? Should I set the Xfinity box and Nvidia Shield to output in 1080p, then turn on 4k Enhancement?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


You need a 4K feed for 4K enhancement to work.


----------



## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Does the 10bit still give you BT.2020 HDR10?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


10bit should still give HDR10:


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Doesn't make sense to me. Did you get the new cable yet?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Nope, the old $35 cable. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> You need a 4K feed for 4K enhancement to work.


Can you please explain how that works because I thought the 4k enhancement was for upconverting below 4k content to 4k as 1080p as an example and upconverting it to 4k. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

This is what I get when I set the Xfinity box back to 4K, but then 4K Enhancement is grayed out. When the Xfinity box is set to 1080p, 4K Enhancement is not grayed out, and it engages.









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> 10bit should still give HDR10:


I get that 10bit can still produce BT.2020 HDR10 but if you look at the screen shot the projector is being fed a 1080P signal. Unusual for Netflix to send 12bit BT.2020 HDR10 when it sends a 1080p signal. My guess is that the Shield can be set to 12bit BT.2020 HDR10 even if that is not the signal being sent from Netflix and that is what the Epson projector is reading even though the projector is not actually receiving that 12bit BT.2020 HDR10 signal. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Can you please explain how that works because I thought the 4k enhancement was for upconverting below 4k content to 4k as 1080p as an example and upconverting it to 4k.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


See page 82 of your manual:





> Using 4K Enhancement
> Using the projector's 4K Enhancement Technology, you can receive 4K (3840 × 2160 pixel) signals and
> project ultra high-definition images. This technology shifts each pixel diagonally by 0.5 pixel to double
> the image resolution.
> Note: This feature may not be available depending on the projection mode and input signal.


Basically 4K enhancement takes a 4k signal and down samples it to something like 2.6K, but it still requires a 4K feed. Super Enhancement is for 1080P, IIRC, and that uses e-shift to reduce the SDE.


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> I get that 10bit can still produce BT.2020 HDR10 but if you look at the screen shot the projector is being fed a 1080P signal. Unusual for Netflix to send 12bit BT.2020 HDR10 when it sends a 1080p signal. My guess is that the Shield can be set to 12bit BT.2020 HDR10 even if that is not the signal being sent from Netflix and that is what the Epson projector is reading even though the projector is not actually receiving that 12bit BT.2020 HDR10 signal.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I can't set the Shield to 12 bit. When I try, it keeps reverting back to the 10 bit setting. I'm so confused. Should I keep my Xfinity box and Shield set to output 4K, or 1080p??? I lose the 4K Enhancement when they are set to output 4K. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

DunMunro said:


> You need a 4K feed for 4K enhancement to work.


When I use a 4K feed, the 4K Enhancement is grayed out. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> I get that 10bit can still produce BT.2020 HDR10 but if you look at the screen shot the projector is being fed a 1080P signal. Unusual for Netflix to send 12bit BT.2020 HDR10 when it sends a 1080p signal. My guess is that the Shield can be set to 12bit BT.2020 HDR10 even if that is not the signal being sent from Netflix and that is what the Epson projector is reading even though the projector is not actually receiving that 12bit BT.2020 HDR10 signal.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The projector is being fed by the Nvidia Shield, not by Netflix, which is being processed by the NS. I'm not familiar with the NS but my X700 UHD BD player is set to automatically upscale 1080p Netflix content to 24P 4K 12bit 4:4:4 or pass 24P 4K HDR direct to my PJ but still convert it to 24P 12bit 4:4:4 HDR

The frame rate is a key factor here.


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I can't set the Shield to 12 bit. When I try, it keeps reverting back to the 10 bit setting. I'm so confused. Should I keep my Xfinity box and Shield set to output 4K, or 1080p??? I lose the 4K Enhancement when they are set to output 4K.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


My understanding would be that you lose the 4k Enhancement option when you feed the projector a 4k signal because it wouldn't need to be enhanced since it already is a 4k signal. That seems to be your experience since you only get the 4k enhancement option when you send a 1080P signal to the projector. The manual is not clear for me on this subject. @DunMunro has a different opinion on this subject. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

biglen said:


> When I use a 4K feed, the 4K Enhancement is grayed out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


See page 88, 153 and 170. You may have something set that prevents 4K enhancement from activating.


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I can't set the Shield to 12 bit. When I try, it keeps reverting back to the 10 bit setting. I'm so confused. Should I keep my Xfinity box and Shield set to output 4K, or 1080p??? I lose the 4K Enhancement when they are set to output 4K.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I would wait for your new cable to arrive tomorrow and hopefully that works as intended. I still think the best way to test the cable is with a UHD player and a 4K disc. If you set your source device to 1080p such as your Nvidia Shield then you are letting the projector do the upconversion is my understanding. I am certainly more confused about the projector than I was an hour ago but I still love my picture no matter what is actually happening. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

biglen said:


> When I use a 4K feed, the 4K Enhancement is grayed out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Is there an option to send 4K 24P rather than 60P to the projector? If so try that.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> See page 82 of your manual:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically 4K enhancement takes a 4k signal and down samples it to something like 2.6K, but it still requires a 4K feed. Super Enhancement is for 1080P, IIRC, and that uses e-shift to reduce the SDE.


I was reading through the manual and didn't see this Super Enhancement, for upconverting 1080p to 4k, you mentioned listed anywhere in the manual. Could you please tell me where this is listed? Thank you. I am still confused as to how the 4k enhancement works on content that is already 4k such as from my Panasonic ub820. Because 4k Enhancement is always grayed out when using my Panasonic Ub820 with a 4k disc.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> Is there an option to send 4K 24P rather than 60P to the projector? If so try that.


Do you own a 5050/6050 because it seems like you own an Optoma UHD50? I appreciate you trying to answer questions about the Epson 5050/6050 but it would be helpful to know if you are providing insight from user experience or from reading from the manual. Thank you.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> I was reading through the manual and didn't see this Super Enhancement, for upconverting 1080p to 4k, you mentioned listed anywhere in the manual. Could you please tell me where this is listed? Thank you. I am still confused as to how the 4k enhancement works on content that is already 4k such as from my Panasonic ub820. Because 4k Enhancement is always grayed out when using my Panasonic Ub820 with a 4k disc.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


See page 88. It's actually called Super Resolution/Detail Enhancement.


----------



## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Do you own a 5050/6050 because it seems like you own an Optoma UHD50? I appreciate you trying to answer questions about the Epson 5050/6050 but it would be helpful to know if you are providing insight from user experience or from reading from the manual. Thank you.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I've used a friend's HC5040 but no I don't own a HC5050. I do know for absolute certain that the HC5040/5050 must be sent a 4K signal to get the highest possible resolution.


----------



## BIC2

I see the 6050 has four individually adjustable blackout bars. Can anybody comment on their effectiveness/usefulness? Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> I've used a friend's HC5040 but no I don't own a HC5050. I do know for absolute certain that the HC5040/5050 must be sent a 4K signal to get the highest possible resolution.


Thanks that is a little like saying water is wet. Of course the higher the source material the better the picture quality but please refrain from acting like an expert on the 5050 if you don't own the projector are simply quoting and pointing people to the manual. It is a bit disingenuous and you are confusing actual owners. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thanks that is a little like saying water is wet. Of course the higher the source material the better the picture quality but please refrain from acting like an expert on the 5050 if you don't own the projector are simply quoting and pointing people to the manual. It is a bit disingenuous and you are confusing actual owners. Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Do you own an HC5050? You certainly don't seem familiar it.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> See page 88. It's actually called Super Resolution/Detail Enhancement.


Yes and it has nothing to do with the manner in which the projector receives a signal whether that is 4k or 720P or 1080P. It is specifically for enhancing the image details after the projector receives a signal. Please only answer questions you have knowledge about. It is tempting to try and lurk in every thread and attempt to help but if you are not an owner of said equipment it is hard to be an expert. All auto mechanics work on cars but they don't work on all cars. I don't want a Kia mechanic trying to troubleshoot my BMW issues by quoting to me from the manual and then after the fact telling me he doesn't really work on BMW'S but his friend owned a Mercedes so he feels qualified to offer his expert opinion. Please stick to answering questions over in the Optoma UHD50 thread since you already acknowledged not owning a 5050 but own a Optoma UHD50. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> Do you own an HC5050? You certainly don't seem familiar it.


No I actually own the 6050 pictured here. Any more questions. I was trying to be nice to you. Being an expert and pretending to be an expert are two different things. Anybody can pretend to be an expert as you have proven by your comments on the 5050. Actually being an expert in any field usually requires some first hand experience, rather than quoting and reading from the manual.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> No I actually own the 6050 pictured here. Any more questions. I was trying to be nice to you. Being an expert and pretending to be an expert are two different things. Anybody can pretend to be an expert as you have proven by your comments on the 5050. Actually being an expert in any field usually requires some first hand experience, rather than quoting and reading from the manual.
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


So when you feed a 4K signal to your HC6050 is 4K enhancement grayed out?


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> So when you feed a 4K signal to your HC6050 is 4K enhancement grayed out?


Yes it is just like I told you several posts back as did @biglen. It is grayed out, as it should be when receiving a 4K signal. Since the projector is e-shift/faux 4K applying a 4k enhancement to a 4k signal that is already higher than what the projector can reproduce wouldn't make much sense. And it is a PC6050 P for Pro and C for Cinema. HC in the Epson projector lineup refers to Home Cinema which would be the HC5050. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes it is just like I told you several posts back as did @biglen. It is grayed out, as it should be when receiving a 4K signal. Since the projector is e-shift/faux 4K applying a 4k enhancement to a 4k signal that is already higher than what the projector can reproduce wouldn't make much sense. And it is a PC6050 P for Pro and C for Cinema. HC in the Epson projector lineup refers to Home Cinema which would be the HC5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The manual states [p82-83]:



> Using 4K Enhancement
> Using the projector's 4K Enhancement Technology, you can receive 4K (3840 × 2160 pixel) signals and
> project ultra high-definition images. This technology shifts each pixel diagonally by 0.5 pixel to double
> the image resolution.
> Note: This feature may not be available depending on the projection mode and input signal.
> 1. Press the Menu button on the remote control.
> You see a screen like this: (graphic deleted)
> 2. Select the Image Enhancement setting and press Enter.
> You see a screen like this: (graphic deleted)
> 3. Select the 4K Enhancement setting and press Enter.
> 4. Select one of the following options and press Enter:
> • Off to disable 4K enhancement
> • On to enable 4K enhancement
> 5. Press Menu to exit the menus.
> Parent topic: Using Advanced Image Adjustment Features


and the above is the same on the HC5040.


----------



## DunMunro

biglen said:


> I'm confused about 4k Enhancement. It's grayed out with my Xfinity box, and my Nvidia Shield. Both are set to output 4k, so I'm assuming that's why it's grayed out? Does that mean the projector is outputting 4k, or no? Should I set the Xfinity box and Nvidia Shield to output in 1080p, then turn on 4k Enhancement?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Apparently a common question:




> Why can't I change the 4K Enhancement setting when I project a 4K signal?
> The 4K Enhancement setting is enabled by default when projecting 4K signals and cannot be changed. When projecting other signal types, you can change the setting as desired.
> https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H930020~faq-0000bcc-shared?faq_cat=faq-topFaqs


So the manual is wrong.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> The manual states [p82-83]:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the above is the same on the HC5040.


Do you see the note where it says this feature may not be available depending upon projection mode and input signal? 

The projection mode where the 4k enhancement is unavailable is 3D . This projector cannot upscale a 3D image to 4K. I don't know of any projector that can. 

The input signal where the 4k enhancement is unavailable is when the projector is already being fed a 4K signal. For a true 4k signal like from my Panasonic ub820 what possibly could a faux 4k projector be doing to enhance the signal? Just really think about it. I should have been this blunt all along. 

I was not confused about the projector's capabilities, only confused by what I thought was a fellow owner's perplexing lack of knowledge. 

Rodrigo Catalan Senior Product Manager Epson

This is where I go when I need help. This is one of my contacts at Epson. There are levels to home theater knowledge. I am not an expert. But I have contacts who are. Please stop wasting everyone's time by trying to prove you are an expert on the 5050. You are not.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> Apparently a common question:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So the manual is wrong.


Oh I get it. The manual is wrong now because you don't understand how 4k enhancement works?

What was that BS explanation you gave about in order to use 4K Enhancement the projector must first be fed a 4k signal? Which means you were stating the projector could never enhance a 1080p signal by your own statement. What a monumental waste of money if that were true. Thankfully Espon didn't design it that way but yet here you were misleading people reading this thread. I should have just called you on your BS from the start and saved everyone some time. Please stop pretending to be an expert. Please. Stop it.

People who are unable to admit their own mistakes are bound to repeat them. 

Honestly it is pretend know it alls like yourself, sticking comments in thread all over this forum, who steer novices down the wrong path. My grandfather always said the person with a small amount of knowledge but a large amount of hubris was the most dangerous of all. Thank you for illustrating his advice today.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Do you see the note where it says this feature may not be available depending upon projection mode and input signal?
> 
> The projection mode where the 4k enhancement is unavailable is 3D . This projector cannot upscale a 3D image to 4K. I don't know of any projector that can.
> 
> The input signal where the 4k enhancement is unavailable is when the projector is already being fed a 4K signal. For a true 4k signal like from my Panasonic ub820 what possibly could a faux 4k projector be doing to enhance the signal? Just really think about it. I should have been this blunt all along.
> 
> I was not confused about the projector's capabilities, only confused by what I thought was a fellow owner's perplexing lack of knowledge.
> 
> Rodrigo Catalan Senior Product Manager Epson
> 
> This is where I go when I need help. This is one of my contacts at Epson. There are levels to home theater knowledge. I am not an expert. But I have contacts who are. Please stop wasting everyone's time by trying to prove you are an expert on the 5050. You are not.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


4K enhancement works by pixel shifting each pixel in the 1080p LCD panels .5 pixels to increase the resolution when a 4K signal is sent to the projector. It must be on to do this. The impression that I was given by the OP was that it was "off" when being sent a 4K signal. I know from using the HC5040 that it must be "on" to maximize resolution from a 4K feed.

You stated in post 2812:



> Can you please explain how that works because I thought the 4k enhancement was for upconverting below 4k content to 4k as 1080p as an example and upconverting it to 4k.


Your statement above, is incorrect but understandable, because of Epson's wording. 4K enhancement is primarily for downsampling 4K signals to a format that their 1080p panels can use by pixel shifting it by .5 pixels to create an increase in resolution over 1080p, but it doesn't create true 4K. It actually creates something in between. The same technology can used to reduce the SDE on 1080p content and then sharpen it.


----------



## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Oh I get it. The manual is wrong now because you don't understand how 4k enhancement works?


The manual is clearly wrong because it states that when you have a 4K signal that you can turn 4K enhancement off. Hence the need for the Epson FAQ.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> You need a 4K feed for 4K enhancement to work.


Wrong. Actually 3D mode and sending a 4k signal will be when 4k enhancement will be unavailable.


DunMunro said:


> See page 82 of your manual:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically 4K enhancement takes a 4k signal and down samples it to something like 2.6K, but it still requires a 4K feed. Super Enhancement is for 1080P, IIRC, and that uses e-shift to reduce the SDE.


Please stop going into threads and quoting from a manual if you don't know what you are talking about. Some novice might actually take your incorrect advice and then they won't trust actual experts who could help them.


DunMunro said:


> See page 88, 153 and 170. You may have something set that prevents 4K enhancement from activating.


Yes I already explained above why @biglen was seeing 4k enhancement grayed out. Because he was sending a 4k signal to the projector. You insinuated there was something he set that was preventing 4k enhancement, when in reality the projector was and is working exactly as intended.


DunMunro said:


> Is there an option to send 4K 24P rather than 60P to the projector? If so try that.


The last resort of the ignorant try confusing the person asking for help with irrelevant information all to try and save face. This is when you should have apologized for your lack of knowledge and let someone with knowledge take over.


DunMunro said:


> I've used a friend's HC5040 but no I don't own a HC5050. I do know for absolute certain that the HC5040/5050 must be sent a 4K signal to get the highest possible resolution.


Not even sure what you meant by this. Of course higher source material will give you a better picture. That has been true since humans started taking photographs.


DunMunro said:


> Do you own an HC5050? You certainly don't seem familiar it.


Now you try to impugn my knowledge.  

This is where I had to take the kid gloves off that I was trying to treat you with. I'm nice until it's time to not be nice. Hence this long post to help you understand how important it is that your future posts be based upon knowledge and facts rather than conjecture and theory. Good day sir. Stop trying to be an expert on everything. It does a disservice to your fellow AV enthusiasts and to yourself.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> 4K enhancement works by pixel shifting each pixel in the 1080p LCD panels .5 pixels to increase the resolution when a 4K signal is sent to the projector. It must be on to do this. The impression that I was given by the OP was that it was "off" when being sent a 4K signal. I know from using the HC5040 that it must be "on" to maximize resolution from a 4K feed.
> 
> 
> 
> You stated in post 2812:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your statement above, is incorrect but understandable, because of Epson's wording. 4K enhancement is primarily for downsampling 4K signals to a format that their 1080p panels can use by pixel shifting it by .5 pixels to create an increase in resolution over 1080p, but it doesn't create true 4K. It actually creates something in between. The same technology can used to reduce the SDE on 1080p content and then sharpen it.


I was trying to be kind to you and not expose you for the charlatan you clearly are. " The impression I was given the by the OP..." So is it the poster's fault for you spewing misinformation all over this thread or are you still blaming Epson for your ignorance by your own misinterpretation of the manual? I am confused. When you are in a hole it is best to just stop digging.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> I was trying to be kind to you and not expose you for the charlatan you clearly are. I was given the impression by the original OP....So is it the poster's fault for your lack of knowledge or are you still blaming Epson for your ignorance? I am confused. When you are in a hole it is best to just stop digging.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I think you are exposing something very ugly in yourself. But have a nice day (or night).


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## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> I think you are exposing something very ugly in yourself. But have a nice day (or night).


As long as you stop trying to be an expert I am okay with exposing my "very ugly" side as you put it. You did try to insult my knowledge by questioning whether I even owned a 5050. How did that work out for you? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> As long as you stop trying to be an expert I am okay with exposing my "very ugly" side as you put it. You did try to insult my knowledge by questioning whether I even owned a 5050. How did that work out for you?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


If you had stated that the same setting was greyed out in your 6050, that would have ended this whole exchange and when I learned that you had a 6050, the first thing I asked you was whether it was greyed out for you when you fed it a 4K signal. I then checked for a firmware update that might have revised the info in the manual and I found the FAQ.



> My understanding would be that you lose the 4k Enhancement option when you feed the projector a 4k signal because it wouldn't need to be enhanced since it already is a 4k signal.


Which was not a definitive answer to the OP's question but rather more of an opinion, (which left me puzzled because if I was close to an HC5050, I would have tested it,) and it could be taken as meaning that 4K enhancement was off when the projector was receiving a 4K signal.


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## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> If you had stated that the same setting was greyed out in your 6050, that would have ended this whole exchange and when I learned that you had a 6050, the first thing I asked you was whether it was greyed out for you when you fed it a 4K signal. I then checked for a firmware update that might have revised the info in the manual and I found the FAQ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which was not a definitive answer to the OP's question but rather more of an opinion, (which left me puzzled because if I was close to an HC5050, I would have tested it,) and it could be taken as meaning that 4K enhancement was off when the projector was receiving a 4K signal.


I know it everyone else's fault for your ineptitude in reading a manual and for trying to pretend to be an expert when you have zero first hand experience with the Epson 5050/6050. Once again I didn't state my knowledge as fact because unlike you I don't feel a need to gain my self esteem from being right. I could have told you how unequivocally wrong you were right from the start but I assumed that me gently questioning you and @biglen telling you his experience was the opposite of the misinformation you kept regurgitating, you would eventually realize you were wrong. I am very sorry you narcissistic personality precludes you from ever questioning yourself even when faced with the facts that you are wrong. I am sorry that same uncontrollable ego has you blaming me, the OP and Epson for your own ignorance. Don't forget your friend who owned the 5040 who led you astray by letting you "spend some time" with his projector, whatever that means. But you certainly livened up this thread. I am sure people waking up to what transpired over night are looking for their popcorn GIFs. A man should know when he is whupped. Sadly not many do.

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## biglen

@skylarlove1999, I think I've come to the conclusion that the HDMI cable I'm using now, can do 1080p 12 bit, but can't handle 4K 12 bit, as proof shown when I switch my sources to output 1080p. Here's the million dollar question though. When my sources are set to output 4K, what is happening with anything I play that is 1080p? The 4K Enhancement is grayed out, so does that mean 1080p content isn't being upscaled to 4K? Or does it mean everything I play is automatically getting the 4K Enhancement, even 1080p, because my sources are set to output 4K?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> @skylarlove1999, I think I've come to the conclusion that the HDMI cable I'm using now, can do 1080p 12 bit, but can't handle 4K 12 bit, as proof shown when I switch my sources to output 1080p. Here's the million dollar question though. When my sources are set to output 4K, what is happening with anything I play that is 1080p? The 4K Enhancement is grayed out, so does that mean 1080p content isn't being upscaled to 4K? Or does it mean everything I play is automatically getting the 4K Enhancement, even 1080p, because my sources are set to output 4K?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


It means everything you play is automatically getting the 4K Enhancement, even 1080p, because your sources are set to output 4K. You have to make sure your sources within your receiver are set correctly as well. Which I believe yours are. 


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> It means everything you play is automatically getting the 4K Enhancement, even 1080p, because your sources are set to output 4K. You have to make sure your sources within your receiver are set correctly as well. Which I believe yours are.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The Optical HDMI is coming today, so hopefully when I connect it, that will give me some answers. The only thing I'm concerned about with the new HDMI cable, is the bend I have to make to get it to the back of the projector. I know you don't really want to be bending optical cables too much. 

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## BIC2

Just received my 6050. I know there's been a lot of talk about dust on the lens. Not sure what to look for, but with bulb on, looking at the lens from the front, sure seems like the lens elements are covered with numerous specs of dust at various depths of the lens. What is it I'm seeing? Thanks.


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> The Optical HDMI is coming today, so hopefully when I connect it, that will give me some answers. The only thing I'm concerned about with the new HDMI cable, is the bend I have to make to get it to the back of the projector. I know you don't really want to be bending optical cables too much.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Just be gentle I have several bends in my run from my AV cabinet to my projector. I am confident unless you are bending it in half you should be fine.

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## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> Just received my 6050. I know there's been a lot of talk about dust on the lens. Not sure what to look for, but with bulb on, looking at the lens from the front, sure seems like the lens elements are covered with numerous specs of dust at various depths of the lens. What is it I'm seeing? Thanks.


As far as I know you are seeing the magnification of dust by the optical lens. Mine was the same way. There is so much almost microscopic dust in our indoor environments. 

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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Just be gentle I have several bends in my run from my AV cabinet to my projector. I am confident unless you are bending it in half you should be fine.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I need close to a 90° bend. 

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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I need close to a 90° bend.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I have two 90 degree bends because I tacked the fiber optic HDMI to my walls behind my drop ceiling 

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## Mike Garrett

skylarlove1999 said:


> The projector should be level with Earth and use the vertical shift to move the image up and down
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


If you want to get picky, the internal optics should be perpendicular with the vertical and horizontal plane of the screen. One because the projector level and the optics level are usually not exactly the same. Two, if the screen is not perfectly level in both planes, then the projector optics should not be level. In the old days, when dealing with projectors that did not have vertical lens shift/fixed offsets, often times you angled the screen bottom up and tilted the projector down so that you would get a perfect rectangular image and be able to place the projector higher than the fixed offset.


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have two 90 degree bends because I tacked the fiber optic HDMI to my walls behind my drop ceiling
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Ah, great. That's good to know. 

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## skylarlove1999

Mike Garrett said:


> If you want to get picky, the internal optics should be perpendicular with the vertical and horizontal plane of the screen. One because the projector level and the optics level are usually not exactly the same. Two, if the screen is not perfectly level in both planes, then the projector optics should not be level. In the old days, when dealing with projectors that did not have vertical lens shift/fixed offsets, often times you angled the screen bottom up and tilted the projector down so that you would get a perfect rectangular image and be able to place the projector higher than the fixed offset.


Truer words have never been spoken . What you describe is very hard for us mere mortals to achieve so I try to make the screen as true as possible to the lens and use a level for aligning the projector with the screen. It works pretty well. 



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## biglen

Okay, so I hooked up the new cable. When I set the Nvidia Shield to output 4K, I'm not getting HDR, only SDR. When I switch the Shield to output 1080p, then I get 12 bit HDR. Does this make any sense?









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## biglen

This is an HDR UHD demo video that I'm running through Kodi, on the Nvidia Shield. The only way I can get 12 bit HDR, is to set the Shield to output 1080p. If it's set to 4K, then I get 8 bit HDR.









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## biglen

Same results with the Xfinity box. The only way to get higher than 8 bit, is to set the output to 1080p.









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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> This is an HDR UHD demo video that I'm running through Kodi, on the Nvidia Shield. The only way I can get 12 bit HDR, is to set the Shield to output 1080p. If it's set to 4K, then I get 8 bit HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


You are definitely having an issue since you should never have REC 709 SDR in the same line as HDR10 as you do in the last photo. My guess is some type of handshake issue in your chain. Plug the cable directly from the Nvidia Shield into the projector . See if you can get 12Bit HDR. It is frustrating. Sorry it wasn't an easy fix.

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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> You are definitely having an issue since you should never have REC 709 SDR in the same line as HDR10 as you do in the last photo. My guess is some type of handshake issue in your chain. Plug the cable directly from the Nvidia Shield into the projector . See if you can get 12Bit HDR. It is frustrating. Sorry it wasn't an easy fix.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


This is with the Shield directly to the projector, and the Shield set to output 4K.









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## biglen

And that's with the Shield directly connected to the projector, but set to output 1080p.









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## biglen

I'm plugged into HDMI 1 on the back of the projector, if that matters. 

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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> And that's with the Shield directly connected to the projector, but set to output 1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


It shouldn't. HDMI 1 and 2 on the 5050 are both 4K/60FPS 18GBPS . Maybe go buy a RoKu 4k player from best Buy that you can return. Or 4k player and test your cable with and without the receiver in the chain. I am not sure which part isn't working. I don't believe it is the projector. Or just stand under the projector and connect the Shield directly to the projector with a 6ft 4K HDMI CABLE and see what are the results. Then if that is successful move the receiver within the same distance and add that back to the chain using the same cables. I know it is all a gigantic pain in the butt.

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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> It shouldn't. HDMI 1 and 2 on the 5050 are both 4K/60FPS 18GBPS . Maybe go buy a RoKu 4k player from best Buy that you can return. Or 4k player and test your cable with and without the receiver in the chain. I am not sure which part isn't working. I don't believe it is the projector. Or just stand under the projector and connect the Shield directly to the projector with a 6ft 4K HDMI CABLE and see what are the results. Then if that is successful move the receiver within the same distance and add that back to the chain using the same cables. I know it is all a gigantic pain in the butt.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The Nvidia Shield is a 4K player, and so is the Xfinity box. Both are doing the same thing. 

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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> The Nvidia Shield is a 4K player, and so is the Xfinity box. Both are doing the same thing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I would try either one then by using a shorter cable directly to the projector. I know you saw my results with my UHD player and Roku Ultra player. Your results should be the same. I know you want to rip your hair out if you have any. 
It is quite maddening. 

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## biglen

That's the Shield set to output 4K, using a shorter high speed cable, that I used in my old setup before I got the projector. Does everything look right now?









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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> That's the Shield set to output 4K, using a shorter high speed cable, that I used in my old setup before I got the projector. Does everything look right now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Yes it is looking better. It is still so tough because we don't know what Netflix agreement with Nvidia is for HDR content. That is the only reason I suggested the Roku Ultra because it is then an apples to apples comparison with my setup using Denon and only real difference would be the cable. This is Netflix through the Roku for the Highwaymen.









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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> That's the Shield set to output 4K, using a shorter high speed cable, that I used in my old setup before I got the projector. Does everything look right now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


 still not the same exact signal as mine but that could be Netflix on Nvidia. 

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## biglen

Okay, so I went in to the settings of the Shield, and set the default display mode to the one in the picture. Here's what I'm getting now on Netflix.









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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Okay, so I went in to the settings of the Shield, and set the default display mode to the one in the picture. Here's what I'm getting now on Netflix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


There you go that's the highest I've seen Netflix in terms of what you should and any streaming service as far as I know currently available maybe now hook up the cable again the long one and see if it works if you haven't already

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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> There you go that's the highest I've seen Netflix in terms of what you should and any streaming service as far as I know currently available maybe now hook up the cable again the long one and see if it works if you haven't already
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Everything I've tried watching, is now showing as 12 bit, even 1080p content. Is that right? Also, after reconnecting the new HDMI cable, everything is still good. Next step is to add back the receiver in the chain. 

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## biglen

I added the receiver back in the mix, and now I'm only getting 10 bit HDR. What could that be ? 

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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I added the receiver back in the mix, and now I'm only getting 10 bit HDR. What could that be ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Similar to the EDI d setting to enhance for the projector there is a similar setting for the Denon receiver that you might have not set to highest output. It also seems a bit strange to me that with 1080p content you're showing the HDR BT 2020 in the projector info that doesn't make sense to me since there is no 1080p content that would have the encode for that color space

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## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> Similar to the EDI d setting to enhance for the projector there is a similar setting for the Denon receiver that you might have not set to highest output. It also seems a bit strange to me that with 1080p content you're showing the HDR BT 2020 in the projector info that doesn't make sense to me since there is no 1080p content that would have the encode for that color space
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


1080p content can be output in 12 V that is accurate it would be more the color space meaning Rec 709 vs. BT 2020 that you want to make sure that matches up between SDR content and HDR content

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## biglen

When I go to the Nvidia settings, this is what the recommended settings are:









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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> When I go to the Nvidia settings, this is what the recommended settings are:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I think if you look back at your photos that was the same recommendation you had when you got 12 bit HDR BT 2020 from the Netflix you were watching before you added the receiver back.

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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> I think if you look back at your photos that was the same recommendation you had when you got 12 bit HDR BT 2020 from the Netflix you were watching before you added the receiver back.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


It is, but maybe since I didn't use that recommended setting, that's what's causing the 1080p content to show the numbers it was showing??? 

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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> It is, but maybe since I didn't use that recommended setting, that's what's causing the 1080p content to show the numbers it was showing???
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


8 10 and 12 bit can be SDR or HDR. It is just you should not see rec709 with HDR10. BT.2020 is what you should see with HDR10


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## AudioVideo007

skylarlove1999 said:


> 8 10 and 12 bit can be SDR or HDR. It is just you should not see rec709 with HDR10. BT.2020 is what you should see with HDR10


I turned of the automatic color switching on NVIDIA Shield to get rid of Rec.709 with HDR.

Otherwise it would always show Rec.709 and HDR10 at same time.


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## skylarlove1999

AudioVideo007 said:


> I turned of the automatic color switching on NVIDIA Shield to get rid of Rec.709 with HDR.
> 
> Otherwise it would always show Rec.709 and HDR10 at same time.


So are you getting all the correct color formats on the various content you watch once you turned it off?

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## AudioVideo007

skylarlove1999 said:


> So are you getting all the correct color formats on the various content you watch once you turned it off?


No then it’s always bt.2020 even with sdr. 12 bit 4:2:2 as set on shield.


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## biglen

AudioVideo007 said:


> No then it’s always bt.2020 even with sdr. 12 bit 4:2:2 as set on shield.


I'm having the same issue. When I enable "Match content color space", everything is 12 bit Rec. 709. 

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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I'm having the same issue. When I enable "Match content color space", everything is 12 bit Rec. 709.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


What happens when you connect the Xfinity box directly to the projector with a shorter cable? Same issue? As you know at this point there are so many variables in the HDR chain for it all to work correctly. Source, receiver, cable and display. Especially initially because it could be any combination of the four as to why it isn't working. Then when streaming there is the variable of what is being sent to your source device. Your short cables maybe not be 4K/60FPS compliant. The cable that @MississippiMan tested and works 99% of the time in his installs should work. I would still suggest a UHD player with a 4K/60FPS cable directly to the projector for testing because at least we know a UHD HDR DISC should be 12bit 4:4:4 BT.2020 HDR10. That way you could at least rule out any color space issue with the projector. My wife and kids went to the in laws today to swim. I am about 45 minutes from you . I could bring over my cables and my UHD player that I know work if you wanted some assistance. 

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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> What happens when you connect the Xfinity box directly to the projector with a shorter cable? Same issue? As you know at this point there are so many variables in the HDR chain for it all to work correctly. Source, receiver, cable and display. Especially initially because it could be any combination of the four as to why it isn't working. Then when streaming there is the variable of what is being sent to your source device. Your short cables maybe not be 4K/60FPS compliant. The cable that @MississippiMan tested and works 99% of the time in his installs should work. I would still suggest a UHD player with a 4K/60FPS cable directly to the projector for testing because at least we know a UHD HDR DISC should be 12bit 4:4:4 BT.2020 HDR10. That way you could at least rule out any color space issue with the projector. My wife and kids went to the in laws today to swim. I am about 45 minutes from you . I could bring over my cables and my UHD player that I know work if you wanted some assistance.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Wow, you would do that for me? That would be really great if you could, then I can eliminate some potential issues. 

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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Wow, you would do that for me? That would be really great if you could, then I can eliminate some potential issues.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Yes you've been having such issues I would definitely do that I hate to see a fellow enthusiasts struggling so p.m. me with your address and I'll get on the road real quick send me your phone number two in case I get lost I'm sure my GPS will get me there but you never know

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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes you've been having such issues I would definitely do that I hate to see a fellow enthusiasts struggling so p.m. me with your address and I'll get on the road real quick send me your phone number two in case I get lost I'm sure my GPS will get me there but you never know
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


PM sent. Thank you SO much !

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## MississippiMan

@*skylarlove1999* 


Your a good man to make that offer.  @*biglen* should have a nice screen set up to view the content on by the time you arrive. 

Absolutely every cable in the system should be fully 4K Certified....but that's easily and affordably done in the 3' lengths most would choose.

What is more problematical is if the Receiver can switch /pass-through the 4K signal with no attenuation. Some do a fine job...others disappoint.


As for the UHD-BluRay-DVD, a Sony x800 or a LG UBK-80 or 90 will do nicely on a decent budget.


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## crossrh

The center of the lens on my new 6050 is 10" above the top of the screen, and 13'3" away from the screen. So I have a lot of lens shift. When I bring up the Pattern, there's a big difference between the top of the image and the bottom, with the bottom being much more out-of-focus.
Is this normal when using a lot of lens shift? When I bring the lens back up, the bottom of the pattern is much clearer. I tried moving the screen closer and farther at the bottom (it's attached at the top only, so it can swing a little if I pull on it) but that had no effect.


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## skylarlove1999

MississippiMan said:


> @*skylarlove1999*
> 
> 
> Your a good man to make that offer.  @*biglen* should have a nice screen set up to view the content on by the time you arrive.
> 
> Absolutely every cable in the system should be fully 4K Certified....but that's easily and affordably done in the 3' lengths most would choose.
> 
> What is more problematical is if the Receiver can switch /pass-through the 4K signal with no attenuation. Some do a fine job...others disappoint.
> 
> 
> As for the UHD-BluRay-DVD, a Sony x800 or a LG UBK-80 or 90 will do nicely on a decent budget.


Everything worked out with the cable you suggested so thank you. we got my Roku Ultra player to get everything we can out of the projector and my Panasonic 820 was giving us everything we should get from the projector just some problems with the Nvidia Shield that he uses and his Comcast Xfinity 4K box with the color format but the picture looks outstanding. It was really nice to meet a fellow home theater enthusiasts and Len was a great guy the time flew by before we knew it 5 hours had gone by and Len had to make his dinner reservation at 6:30

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## skylarlove1999

MississippiMan said:


> @*skylarlove1999*
> 
> 
> Your a good man to make that offer.  @*biglen* should have a nice screen set up to view the content on by the time you arrive.
> 
> Absolutely every cable in the system should be fully 4K Certified....but that's easily and affordably done in the 3' lengths most would choose.
> 
> What is more problematical is if the Receiver can switch /pass-through the 4K signal with no attenuation. Some do a fine job...others disappoint.
> 
> 
> As for the UHD-BluRay-DVD, a Sony x800 or a LG UBK-80 or 90 will do nicely on a decent budget.


I'm very excited to go back over to his house and to see the screen can be created from your paint system. We were just projecting onto is primed wall and it still looks really good obviously nowhere near as good as it will look once he puts your paint screen system up but it still looks pretty good

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## mhutchins

crossrh said:


> The center of the lens on my new 6050 is 10" above the top of the screen, and 13'3" away from the screen. So I have a lot of lens shift. When I bring up the Pattern, there's a big difference between the top of the image and the bottom, with the bottom being much more out-of-focus.
> Is this normal when using a lot of lens shift? When I bring the lens back up, the bottom of the pattern is much clearer. I tried moving the screen closer and farther at the bottom (it's attached at the top only, so it can swing a little if I pull on it) but that had no effect.


Crossrh,

Are you able to get the bottom in focus at all? I'm just wondering if you can split the difference between the top and the bottom of the image. If not, it's really disappointing that there is so much aberration at the edges of the lens' focus range. I would expect better from their "hand-picked lenses"!! This really worries me as I am planning a similar installation with a 6050 later in the year (when the prices come down a little more). 

I wonder if you have a bad lens. My 8700 UB sits even with the top of my 110" screen and is 14.5' away and the bottom of the test pattern has almost as good focus. (the image is actually the bottom. For some reason it is rotated 90 degrees CCW).

Mike


----------



## dr bill

*NVIDIA vs. X800*



skylarlove1999 said:


> Everything worked out with the cable you suggested so thank you. we got my Roku Ultra player to get everything we can out of the projector and my Panasonic 820 was giving us everything we should get from the projector just some problems with the Nvidia Shield that he uses and his Comcast Xfinity 4K box with the color format but the picture looks outstanding. It was really nice to meet a fellow home theater enthusiasts and Len was a great guy the time flew by before we knew it 5 hours had gone by and Len had to make his dinner reservation at 6:30
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Very good timing of this issue of getting different signals from different sources (NVIDIA vs. Sony X800 4k player), playing the same content (4k Wonder Woman, either scanned into my NVIDIA or the 4k disk), using the same 3ft Amazon HDMI cables feeding my receiver:

What I get form the *NVIDIA* is:

*59.93Hz
8 bit 4:2:0
BT.709 HDR10*

What I get from the *X800*:

*23.97Hz
12 bit 4:2:2
BT.2020 HDR10*


I'm puzzled by these data, and I haven't spent the time to compare the picture qualities from the two sources. But I'm hunching that the 12 bit looks better than the 8 bit.

Any ideas? 

1. I think the 8 bit coming from the NVIDIA is due to a video setting somewhere? If so, then where?

2. Also, should I expect better than 4:2:2 from the X800?


----------



## dr bill

dr bill said:


> Very good timing of this issue of getting different signals from different sources (NVIDIA vs. Sony X800 4k player), playing the same content (4k Wonder Woman, either scanned into my NVIDIA or the 4k disk), using the same 3ft Amazon HDMI cables feeding my receiver:
> 
> What I get form the *NVIDIA* is:
> 
> *59.93Hz
> 8 bit 4:2:0
> BT.709 HDR10*
> 
> What I get from the *X800*:
> 
> *23.97Hz
> 12 bit 4:2:2
> BT.2020 HDR10*
> 
> 
> I'm puzzled by these data, and I haven't spent the time to compare the picture qualities from the two sources. But I'm hunching that the 12 bit looks better than the 8 bit.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 1. I think the 8 bit coming from the NVIDIA is due to a video setting somewhere? If so, then where?
> 
> 2. Also, should I expect better than 4:2:2 from the X800?


I figured out the NVDIA has a lot of Display Mode settings, all adjustable. I think the NVDIA is detecting: 8 bit, 59.93Hz, 4:2:0 as the best settings for my 5050.

*New question:

What are the best picture quality settings for the 5050?

12 bit vs 8 bit, 4:2:0 vs. 4:2:2 vs. 4:4:4?*

Thanks!


----------



## BIC2

*Four-Side Blanking Feature*

I was looking at the four-side Blanking feature on the 6050. I took it to mean blanking for various aspect ratios, so that you can go with a 16:9 screen and not lose anything with scope movies. This video confirms what the feature seems to be for.






But, the manual states the feature, "Covers part of the image with a black screen to hide raster lines at the edge of the screen. Using this feature reduces the image size."

A bit confusing on the feature's purpose. I was planning on a 2.39:1 screen, but the blanking feature seems to make it preferable to go with a CIW 16:9 screen and set up the top/bottom blanking for scope. You can also quickly adjust between 2.35 and 2.39 or whatever the movie actually is. While it may take a minute or two to adjust top/bottom bars with remote, you can reset back to 16:9 at the touch of a button. Maybe the blanking can be incorporated into lens memory, don't know.

Viewing is mostly movies. Am I missing anything by going with a 16:9 screen and utilizing this feature? Thanks.


----------



## dr bill

dr bill said:


> I figured out the NVDIA has a lot of Display Mode settings, all adjustable. I think the NVDIA is detecting: 8 bit, 59.93Hz, 4:2:0 as the best settings for my 5050.
> 
> *New question:
> 
> What are the best picture quality settings for the 5050?
> 
> 12 bit vs 8 bit, 4:2:0 vs. 4:2:2 vs. 4:4:4?*
> 
> Thanks!


The best signal into my 5050 looks like *12 bit 4:2:2*, coming from either my X800 or my NVIDIA. I can't get 12 bit 4:4:4.

I wonder if my Amazon HDMI cables are a limiting factor?


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> I figured out the NVDIA has a lot of Display Mode settings, all adjustable. I think the NVDIA is detecting: 8 bit, 59.93Hz, 4:2:0 as the best settings for my 5050.
> 
> 
> 
> *New question:
> 
> 
> 
> What are the best picture quality settings for the 5050?
> 
> 
> 
> 12 bit vs 8 bit, 4:2:0 vs. 4:2:2 vs. 4:4:4?*
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


https://dgit.com/4k-hdr-guide-45905/amp/

12 bit allows for the most shade variations of colors. In order to take full advantage of all the colors that are possible in the BT. 2020 color space with HDR you would require a display capable of producing in excess of 1500 nits. There is no home theater projector anywhere close to that. Not even really 1/5th of those nits. But 12 bits even with the lower nits will still give exponentially larger color variations than 8 or 10 bits. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> The best signal into my 5050 looks like *12 bit 4:2:2*, coming from either my X800 or my NVIDIA. I can't get 12 bit 4:4:4.
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if my Amazon HDMI cables are a limiting factor?


Your cables are not a limiting factor. Most discs and HDR streaming are 4:2:0 which is the standard for films. 4:4:4 would really only be beneficial of your computer is hooked up to the projector. 4:4:4 makes texts sharper. 8 versus 10 versus 12 bit is way more important to your viewing experience due all the color variations that can be displayed the higher the bit rate. This is a great article for an explanation of the bit rate and chroma subsampling rate. 

https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/chroma-subsampling

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

skylarlove1999 said:


> https://dgit.com/4k-hdr-guide-45905/amp/
> 
> 12 bit allows for the most shade variations of colors. In order to take full advantage of all the colors that are possible in the BT. 2020 color space with HDR you would require a display capable of producing in excess of 1500 nits. There is no home theater projector anywhere close to that. Not even really 1/5th of those nits. But 12 bits even with the lower nits will still give exponentially larger color variations than 8 or 10 bits.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


What is interesting is that my *4k player* yields a 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 signal, *BT.2020* HDR10.
My *NVIDIA* yields a 59.93Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 signal, *BT.709* HDR10.

If I leave it on it's recommended setting, the NVIDIA outputs:
59.93Hz
8 bit 4:2:0
*BT.709 HDR10*

*With a 4k signal, shouldn't I be getting a BT.2020 result???*

Is there something about the frame rate/Hz that is affecting BT.709 vs BT.2020?

Or, as long as the 5050 is indicating 'HDR10', then I should stop worrying about all this? I just want the best picture quality from my 5050.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> What is interesting is that my *4k player* yields a 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 signal, *BT. 2020* HDR10.
> 
> My *NVIDIA* yields a 59.93Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 signal, *BT. 709* HDR10.
> 
> 
> 
> *With a 4k signal, shouldn't I be getting a BT. 2020 result???*


Yes you should never see 709 in same line as HDR10. 709 is SDR color. Looking at @biglen picture in his home I don't believe it is causing any actual color issues when seeing that incorrect color format tagline but is still isn't right. @ckronengold I believe you had some color format issues with your Nvidia Shield back in April with your Epson 5050ub. I believe you solved them by changing some settings in your Shield. Do you mind if either of these fine gentleman send you a direct message to see if you could help them resolve their issues?  Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

dr bill said:


> What is interesting is that my *4k player* yields a 23.97Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 signal, *BT.2020* HDR10.
> 
> My *NVIDIA* yields a 59.93Hz, 12 bit 4:2:2 signal, *BT.709* HDR10.
> 
> 
> 
> If I leave it on it's recommended setting, the NVIDIA outputs:
> 
> 59.93Hz
> 
> 8 bit 4:2:0
> 
> *BT.709 HDR10*
> 
> 
> 
> *With a 4k signal, shouldn't I be getting a BT.2020 result???*
> 
> 
> 
> Is there something about the frame rate/Hz that is affecting BT.709 vs BT.2020?
> 
> 
> 
> Or, as long as the 5050 is indicating 'HDR10', then I should stop worrying about all this? I just want the best picture quality from my 5050.


The best setting I found that works on the Shield so far, is the 4k 60Hz 12 bit 2020. When watching HDR content I get 4:2:2 HDR10 2020. The only thing that's weird, is 1080p content, shows at 2020, and it should show as 709. Also, make sure you double check the Shield setting and make sure it's still set to 12 bit. A couple times it has set itself to 10 bit without me knowing, which is weird. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> The best setting I found that works on the Shield so far, is the 4k 60Hz 12 bit 2020. When watching HDR content I get 4:2:2 HDR10 2020. The only thing that's weird, is 1080p content, shows at 2020, and it should show as 709.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


You painting that screen today big man? I am really excited to hear your feedback on the screen.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

skylarlove1999 said:


> @ckronengold I believe you had some color format issues with your Nvidia Shield back in April with your Epson 5050ub. I believe you solved them by changing some settings in your Shield. Do you mind if either of these fine gentleman send you a direct message to see if you could help them resolve their issues?  Thanks in advance for your assistance.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Happy to help any way I can.

I need to catch up on this thread, but did you take the new Shield 8.0 upgrade? And if so, did you apply the hotfix? There were a ton of colorspace issues with the update. 



Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Happy to help any way I can.
> 
> I need to catch up on this thread, but did you take the new Shield 8.0 upgrade? And if so, did you apply the hotfix? There were a ton of colorspace issues with the update.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk[/quote @biglen @DrBill will be very grateful. Thanks so much for offering assistance.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> You painting that screen today big man? I am really excited to hear your feedback on the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Definitely. I'm not going to bed until it's done. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

ckronengold said:


> Happy to help any way I can.
> 
> I need to catch up on this thread, but did you take the new Shield 8.0 upgrade? And if so, did you apply the hotfix? There were a ton of colorspace issues with the update.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


I've taken the update, but I'm not sure what the hotfix is. What output setting do you have set on your Shield? It keeps trying to get me to use a 10 bit setting for default, but I always use the 12 bit. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Definitely. I'm not going to bed until it's done.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Spoken like a true dedicated obsessed AV HT enthusiast. Really nice meeting you yesterday. I hope Ralph's restaurant exceeded your expectations. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

biglen said:


> The best setting I found that works on the Shield so far, is the 4k 60Hz 12 bit 2020. When watching HDR content I get 4:2:2 HDR10 2020. The only thing that's weird, is 1080p content, shows at 2020, and it should show as 709. Also, make sure you double check the Shield setting and make sure it's still set to 12 bit. A couple times it has set itself to 10 bit without me knowing, which is weird.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


When I go to my options, the '4k 60Hz 12 bit 2020' is not an option for me. Best I can do at '60Hz is 8 bit Rec. 709'.

I have the 8.0 update (as the Shield is new to me this week!) but wasn't aware there's issues with it. Perhaps this is my problem. Will research further.


----------



## dr bill

ckronengold said:


> Happy to help any way I can.
> 
> I need to catch up on this thread, but did you take the new Shield 8.0 upgrade? And if so, did you apply the hotfix? There were a ton of colorspace issues with the update.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Point me in the direction of this *hotfix*, please???


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Spoken like a true dedicated obsessed AV HT enthusiast. Really nice meeting you yesterday. I hope Ralph's restaurant exceeded your expectations.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Great meeting you too. You're a great guy, with a ton of knowledge! I highly recommend Ralph's. The food was amazing. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

dr bill said:


> Point me in the direction of this *hotfix*, please???


https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...47/shield-experience-upgrade-80-hotfix-image/

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

dr bill said:


> Point me in the direction of this *hotfix*, please???



[email protected]
12d
Quick update. Hoping to share the second HotFIx image tomorrow with these issues addressed:


- Multiple Streaming apps failing to play for small number of users, netflix errors 116/115.
- The match content color space displaying incorrect format. 
- Can't set the default launcher. 
- VC1 playback not working.
- Volume UI with android P too bright, takes too long to disappear.
- Some controllers joysticks snap back to the center at the end of joystick travel. (Was in First HotFIx image)
- IR volume control not working when anything is turned on in accessibility
- When using Adoped storage, sdcard/InternalStorage not accessible.
- SHIELD Remote App connection issues & d-pad not working
- SHIELD Controller 2017 fails OTA with "accessory disconnected" error.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

ckronengold said:


> https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...47/shield-experience-upgrade-80-hotfix-image/
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Thanks!

I submitted my serial number, now I wait.....


----------



## biglen

dr bill said:


> When I go to my options, the '4k 60Hz 12 bit 2020' is not an option for me. Best I can do at '60Hz is 8 bit Rec. 709'.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the 8.0 update (as the Shield is new to me this week!) but wasn't aware there's issues with it. Perhaps this is my problem. Will research further.


Did you go to advanced settings? You should have like 81 output settings to choose from. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

dr bill said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I submitted my serial number, now I wait.....


No prob. Didn't take all that long. Maybe a few hours. Then you can go to the Shield and check for an update and it will pull down the fix. 

Sounds like a lot of the issues may have to do with how the shield is handling the color space, which was really messed up after the update to 8.0. 

Take a look at the Shield thread (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-n...-android-tv-set-top-box-376.html#post58449068) and you'll see some very similar issues.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> No prob. Didn't take all that long. Maybe a few hours. Then you can go to the Shield and check for an update and it will pull down the fix.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a lot of the issues may have to do with how the shield is handling the color space, which was really messed up after the update to 8.0.
> 
> 
> 
> Take a look at the Shield thread (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-n...-android-tv-set-top-box-376.html#post58449068) and you'll see some very similar issues.[/quote @biglen this might be able to resolve some of your Shield issues hopefully. @ckronengold thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

My settings and output.
Springsteen on Broadway from Netflix and Avengers Endgame on Kodi/Plex.









Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

ckronengold said:


> My settings and output.
> Springsteen on Broadway from Netflix and Avengers Endgame on Kodi/Plex.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


Hmmmm, so even with the output setting at 10 bit, you still get 12 bit color depth. When I tried setting it to the recommended 10 bit, I could never get anything to show in 12 bit, it would just play at 10 bit. I'll have to go over my settings again, and match yours exactly. When I tried enabling Match content color space, it didn't work properly. It made everything play at 709. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

@ckronengold This is what I get with your exact settings. Something isn't right. I'm going to try the hotfix.









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

biglen said:


> Did you go to advanced settings? You should have like 81 output settings to choose from.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Interestingly, I only get access to 63 modes (output settings) to choose from, not 81.

I hope the hotfix solves this issue. 

Just waiting by the NVIDIA Shield, waiting for that update to come through........


----------



## dr bill

biglen said:


> @ckronengold This is what I get with your exact settings. Something isn't right. I'm going to try the hotfix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Same as you, except I only get 8 bit, not 10 bit. BT.709 HDR10. Goofy!


----------



## dr bill

ckronengold said:


> No prob. Didn't take all that long. Maybe a few hours. Then you can go to the Shield and check for an update and it will pull down the fix.
> 
> Sounds like a lot of the issues may have to do with how the shield is handling the color space, which was really messed up after the update to 8.0.
> 
> Take a look at the Shield thread (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/39-n...-android-tv-set-top-box-376.html#post58449068) and you'll see some very similar issues.


Looks like I pseudo-hijacked the 5050 thread with my NVIDIA Shield settings questions. My apologies.

I now see there's a NVIDIA Shield thread, with 379 pages, 12000 posts. Let the reading begin!


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> Looks like I pseudo-hijacked the 5050 thread with my NVIDIA Shield settings questions. My apologies.
> 
> 
> 
> I now see there's a NVIDIA Shield thread, with 379 pages, 12000 posts. Let the reading begin!


It still is in relation to the projector settings not working correctly with the shield so I wouldn't consider hijacking especially since there are obviously other people who have the same exact setup up and having same issues right now

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## AudioVideo007

Looks like I gotta get me some Shield hotfix


----------



## AudioVideo007

Speaking of the NVIDIA Shield... when I use Alaric’s settings the HDR best settings create a reddish background on the Shield vs Black home background before I changed the settings.

Anyone else run into these issues? This is on the 6050ub


----------



## biglen

AudioVideo007 said:


> Speaking of the NVIDIA Shield... when I use Alaric’s settings the HDR best settings create a reddish background on the Shield vs Black home background before I changed the settings.
> 
> Anyone else run into these issues? This is on the 6050ub


My HDR looks great with his settings. Try setting the Shield to 12 bit, and see what happens. @skylarlove1999 can attest to how good my HDR looks with those settings. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> My HDR looks great with his settings. Try setting the Shield to 12 bit, and see what happens. @skylarlove1999 can attest to how good my HDR looks with those settings.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Yes I can attest to that and we didn't even have any type of screen yet it was just on a white wall and only a primed wall at that. how goes the painting @biglen

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes I can attest to that and we didn't even have any type of screen yet it was just on a white wall and only a primed wall at that. how goes the painting @biglen
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Coat #7









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Coat #7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Looking good I can't wait to hear your impressions once you watch some SDR and HDR content

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lexmak87

Hello everyone


My name is Lex. I have recently been finding extremely useful information from this forum so i just signed up. I am moving next month and creating a dedicated theater room. I plan to go with the 6050UB by end of year or whenever I see it hopefully on sale. looking to do a 106" silver ticket fixed screen. My room is going to have dark paint on ceiling and walls and will be totally light controlled. I have an electrician coming next weekend. I am going to have him put in a electrical outlet on the ceiling for when the projector goes up. I also am going to have him run an HDMI cord out to where the outlet is as well and to where a receiver will go so im all setup. What i need help with is HDMI suggestions. I plan to have a receiver and Blu ray player capable of 4k so i want to make sure i get a good cable and one that doesn't allow the handshaking ive read about. Are there any options that are not outrageous you suggest? Preferably amazon if possible. At this moment i need the primary HDMI from what will go from receiver to PJ. So if you can suggest that and than maybe also ones for say Blu ray player etc that would be so helpful and appreciated. Thanks so much in advance everyone


----------



## ckronengold

Lexmak87 said:


> Hello everyone
> . What i need help with is HDMI suggestions. I plan to have a receiver and Blu ray player capable of 4k so i want to make sure i get a good cable and one that doesn't allow the handshaking ive read about. Are there any options that are not outrageous you suggest? Preferably amazon if possible.


How far is the run? You should probably go with an optical HDMI. Most of us seem to be finding some luck solving headaches with one. Add a few to your watchlist on Amazon and wait for a lightning dead or deal of the day. 

I got a 30' ATZEBE Fiber Optic HDMI Cable. Fiber HDMI Cable Supports [email protected], 4:4:4/4:2:2/4:2:0, HDR, Dolby Vision, HDCP2.2, ARC, 3D, High Speed 18Gbps, Slim and Flexible HDMI Fiber Optic Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YGG68/

Its $60, but I grabbed in on a lightning deal with an applied coupon, and it came to $37. I don't consider that too bad since it solved all my problems. 

I lot of people speak highly about the Ruipro cables, but they are definitely more expensive. 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGDFCSC/

Ugreen also makes a nice one, somewhere in the middle of the price range
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFW87BC/


----------



## MississippiMan

Lexmak87 said:


> Hello everyone
> 
> 
> My name is Lex. I have recently been finding extremely useful information from this forum so i just signed up. I am moving next month and creating a dedicated theater room. I plan to go with the 6050UB by end of year or whenever I see it hopefully on sale. looking to do a 106" silver ticket fixed screen. My room is going to have dark paint on ceiling and walls and will be totally light controlled. I have an electrician coming next weekend. I am going to have him put in a electrical outlet on the ceiling for when the projector goes up. I also am going to have him run an HDMI cord out to where the outlet is as well and to where a receiver will go so im all setup. What i need help with is HDMI suggestions. I plan to have a receiver and Blu ray player capable of 4k so i want to make sure i get a good cable and one that doesn't allow the handshaking ive read about. Are there any options that are not outrageous you suggest? Preferably amazon if possible. At this moment i need the primary HDMI from what will go from receiver to PJ. So if you can suggest that and than maybe also ones for say Blu ray player etc that would be so helpful and appreciated. Thanks so much in advance everyone



Lex, 


@ckronengold already gave you some good advice as far as getting a Fiber Optic HDMI. And a 30-33'er even for $60.00 is a good deal.


However a few things need sorting out. 



How far from the PJ from the A/V Equipment (*ckronengold *already asked that ) At or Under 25'and there are HDMI 4K Certified Cables for less than $24.00 available on Amazon. Save where you can...but always without compromise.
Do you have any Attic Access above the room? If so I can show you a better way to mount the PJ with no Electrical or HDMI coming through the Ceiling...at least visibly. Just ask and Ye Shall Receive.
Getting a 6050 (...you should consider a 5050...and spend the savings on more important things...) and a 106" Silver Ticket will set you up to have almost a too bright image. The range of Throw for the 60/5050 for that size goes between just 11' out to 21'...but even at the longest Throw you'll still clock in at 57 foot lambert. That would be amazingly, blazing-ly bright.
In choosing the Receiver, you must also make certain your choice has a impeccable reputation for switching and/or passing 4K seamlessly.
The choice of the right UHD-DVD for the money will also count toward getting real performance for value.


It seem to happen quite often...someone waits until the Electrician is coming around the corner to make their 1st Post. Haul up on the reins and get a few important things absolutely determined before you commit to things that cannot be changed without added expense.


----------



## rekbones

Lexmak87 said:


> Hello everyone
> 
> 
> My name is Lex. I have recently been finding extremely useful information from this forum so i just signed up. I am moving next month and creating a dedicated theater room. I plan to go with the 6050UB by end of year or whenever I see it hopefully on sale. looking to do a 106" silver ticket fixed screen. My room is going to have dark paint on ceiling and walls and will be totally light controlled. I have an electrician coming next weekend. I am going to have him put in a electrical outlet on the ceiling for when the projector goes up. I also am going to have him run an HDMI cord out to where the outlet is as well and to where a receiver will go so im all setup. What i need help with is HDMI suggestions. I plan to have a receiver and Blu ray player capable of 4k so i want to make sure i get a good cable and one that doesn't allow the handshaking ive read about. Are there any options that are not outrageous you suggest? Preferably amazon if possible. At this moment i need the primary HDMI from what will go from receiver to PJ. So if you can suggest that and than maybe also ones for say Blu ray player etc that would be so helpful and appreciated. Thanks so much in advance everyone


If at all possible have your electrician run conduit from where your AV equipment is to the projector. Hopefully you do not have your AV equipment in the front of the room as this is a common newbie mistake and it should be preferable in the back close to the projector and hidden in a closet if possible. 106" screen is on the very small side unless your room is tiny so make sure you think this through before committing your projector throw distance and outlet location.


----------



## Lexmak87

Appreciate all the info! let me gather some information and reply back thanks so much! Also Just fyi im not in a rush by any means i want to do my project best i can. Nothing has been purchased as of yet just trying to get some wiring figured out since some electrical is being done in the next week.


----------



## Lexmak87

Thanks for the help going to gather some more info


----------



## rekbones

Lexmak87 said:


> Appreciate all the info! let me gather some information and reply back thanks so much! Also Just fyi im not in a rush by any means i want to do my project best i can. Nothing has been purchased as of yet just trying to get some wiring figured out since some electrical is being done in the next week.


If in the wiring stage of construction this is critical to get it right the first time. Screen size and lighting control are the biggest mistake newbies make in HT setup. Wire for can spot lights only with separate dimmers. Mood lighting is optional but make sure it can be turned of for movie time.

Edit: this is not the thread for this you should post in the theater construction section, sorry guys for off track discussion.


----------



## MississippiMan

skylarlove1999 said:


> Looking good I can't wait to hear your impressions once you watch some SDR and HDR content



Awww darn. I was hoping your visit would be around the time the painting was done.


Another road trip planned?


----------



## gibson61

I always thought 4k hdmi cables were a scam. I was told any high speed hdmi cable will pass 4k under 9ft. So are the better cables just needed for long runs. Thanks


----------



## skylarlove1999

MississippiMan said:


> Awww darn. I was hoping your visit would be around the time the painting was done.
> 
> 
> Another road trip planned?


Oh yeah I'll be going back over don't worry he's actually about 45 minutes from my house. I'm very excited to see your screen paint

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Lexmak87 said:


> Appreciate all the info! let me gather some information and reply back thanks so much! Also Just fyi im not in a rush by any means i want to do my project best i can. Nothing has been purchased as of yet just trying to get some wiring figured out since some electrical is being done in the next week.


Ok, my best suggestion it get your electrician to use ducting 2.5” in diameter at least this will allow to to further proof your HDMI etc connections to your projector as technology changes. Another thing you really need to pick a short list of possible projector choices because some need different throw distances to the screen so ideally you’d like your ceiling plug socket and hdmi lead coming out of the ceiling close to the projector mount. I personally think your last purchase should be the screen, we all do this wrong and it’s only afterwards we all think I wish I’d bought this instead, what you ideally want is your projector to allow enough zoom to increase your 106” up to a 130” and the reason I say this is if you watch mostly movies then you might prefer getting a cinemascope screen, the lack of dark grey borders top and bottom that you get when watching a movie with a 16:9 screen is very appealing.


----------



## dr bill

*Hotfix update...*



dr bill said:


> Interestingly, I only get access to 63 modes (output settings) to choose from, not 81.
> 
> I hope the hotfix solves this issue.
> 
> Just waiting by the NVIDIA Shield, waiting for that update to come through........


Got my hotfix update this morning, and seems to address some, but not all, my NVIDIA Shield to 5050 issues.

I can now manually set resolution to 30Hz, 12 bit, 4:2:2, and what has changed is that the 5050 is producing BT2020 color space, HDR10. Excellent!

However, if I leave all the Shield resolution settings to 'Auto' or 'Recommended', then the Shield reverts back to 59.93Hz, 8 bit, and the 5050 sees this as BT709 HDR10 (which doesn't make any sense).

Also, on the Shield, I continue to only have access to 63 video resolution modes, not 81. When I go to my options, the '4k 60Hz 12 bit 2020' is not an option for me. The best I can do is 30Hz, 12 bit, 4:2:2. 

So, the hotfix didn't "fix" everything for me.

I am receiving some new, certified HDMI cables today, and perhaps the old HDMIs are the limiting factor here. Otherwise, back to the high-tech drawing board...


----------



## biglen

dr bill said:


> Got my hotfix update this morning, and seems to address some, but not all, my NVIDIA Shield to 5050 issues.
> 
> 
> 
> I can now manually set resolution to 30Hz, 12 bit, 4:2:2, and what has changed is that the 5050 is producing BT2020 color space, HDR10. Excellent!
> 
> 
> 
> However, if I leave all the Shield resolution settings to 'Auto' or 'Recommended', then the Shield reverts back to 59.93Hz, 8 bit, and the 5050 sees this as BT709 HDR10 (which doesn't make any sense).
> 
> 
> 
> Also, on the Shield, I continue to only have access to 63 video resolution modes, not 81. When I go to my options, the '4k 60Hz 12 bit 2020' is not an option for me. The best I can do is 30Hz, 12 bit, 4:2:2.
> 
> 
> 
> So, the hotfix didn't "fix" everything for me.
> 
> 
> 
> I am receiving some new, certified HDMI cables today, and perhaps the old HDMIs are the limiting factor here. Otherwise, back to the high-tech drawing board...


I have a feeling it's your HDMI cable. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I have a feeling it's your HDMI cable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk[/quote @biglen did the hotfix fix the 709 HDR10 issue you were seeing? How does your screen look?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> biglen said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a feeling it's your HDMI cable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk[/quote @biglen did the hotfix fix the 709 HDR10 issue you were seeing? How does your screen look?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't checked yet. I was waiting for it to cure overnight, and I'm working on the wood box that the projector sits in.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't checked yet. I was waiting for it to cure overnight, and I'm working on the wood box that the projector sits in.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> You have way more patience than me. I would have had to test it before it cured. But I am sure you did the right thing. So the boards I saw in your cutout were just temporary? I thought that looked great already.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> biglen said:
> 
> 
> 
> You have way more patience than me. I would have had to test it before it cured. But I am sure you did the right thing. So the boards I saw in your cutout were just temporary? I thought that looked great already.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> The boards are all cut, but they aren't nailed together or painted inside. I just had them laying on each other when you were here.
Click to expand...


----------



## MississippiMan

biglen said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't checked yet. I was waiting for it to cure overnight,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, Tap, goes the Toes.
Click to expand...


----------



## Luminated67

dr bill said:


> Got my hotfix update this morning, and seems to address some, but not all, my NVIDIA Shield to 5050 issues.
> 
> I can now manually set resolution to 30Hz, 12 bit, 4:2:2, and what has changed is that the 5050 is producing BT2020 color space, HDR10. Excellent!
> 
> However, if I leave all the Shield resolution settings to 'Auto' or 'Recommended', then the Shield reverts back to 59.93Hz, 8 bit, and the 5050 sees this as BT709 HDR10 (which doesn't make any sense).
> 
> Also, on the Shield, I continue to only have access to 63 video resolution modes, not 81. When I go to my options, the '4k 60Hz 12 bit 2020' is not an option for me. The best I can do is 30Hz, 12 bit, 4:2:2.
> 
> So, the hotfix didn't "fix" everything for me.
> 
> I am receiving some new, certified HDMI cables today, and perhaps the old HDMIs are the limiting factor here. Otherwise, back to the high-tech drawing board...


I can assure you if you are running a hdmi lead longer than 15 foot that isn’t a Opti-HDMI you will not get 4K 60Hz


----------



## dr bill

Luminated67 said:


> I can assure you if you are running a hdmi lead longer than 15 foot that isn’t a Opti-HDMI you will not get 4K 60Hz


This is what I am running:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LD4FP5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I'm thinking it might be my shorter HDMIs, from the Shield to the AVR. Trying a new one today!


----------



## dr bill

OK, life lesson learned...

Out of sheer laziness, I was plugging into my AVR (Denon) via the front HDMI-in (Aux1).

After I eliminated all other possibilities on what was limiting the video signal (short HDMI, long HDMI) and hoping my new Denon AVR was not the problem, I simply unplugged from the Aux1 and into one of the back HDMI inputs on the Denon, and viola! I now get access to 81 Shield video settings, I can select the 59.94Hz 12-bit, 422 Rec2020, and it all works on the 5050 end!

Now, I can finally watch a UHD in peace, knowing I am getting the best signal.

Thanks, all, for your input and suggestions.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> OK, life lesson learned...
> 
> 
> 
> Out of sheer laziness, I was plugging into my AVR (Denon) via the front HDMI-in (Aux1).
> 
> 
> 
> After I eliminated all other possibilities on what was limiting the video signal (short HDMI, long HDMI) and hoping my new Denon AVR was not the problem, I simply unplugged from the Aux1 and into one of the back HDMI inputs on the Denon, and viola! I now get access to 81 Shield video settings, I can select the 59.94Hz 12-bit, 422 Rec2020, and it all works on the 5050 end!
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I can finally watch a UHD in peace, knowing I am getting the best signal.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, all, for your input and suggestions.


The HDMI in closest to the HDMI out on the back of your receiver is always going to be the best electrical connection voltage wise which means it's best to carry the signal. Glad you were able to get that figured out.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

dr bill said:


> OK, life lesson learned...
> 
> 
> 
> Out of sheer laziness, I was plugging into my AVR (Denon) via the front HDMI-in (Aux1).
> 
> 
> 
> After I eliminated all other possibilities on what was limiting the video signal (short HDMI, long HDMI) and hoping my new Denon AVR was not the problem, I simply unplugged from the Aux1 and into one of the back HDMI inputs on the Denon, and viola! I now get access to 81 Shield video settings, I can select the 59.94Hz 12-bit, 422 Rec2020, and it all works on the 5050 end!
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I can finally watch a UHD in peace, knowing I am getting the best signal.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, all, for your input and suggestions.


I remember reading that the front HDMI port on some Denons, don't do full HDR. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

That hotfix screwed up my Shield. It's saying it's in HDR mode, but I can tell it's not. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

My colors look off on 1080p content too. Mad Max looks washed out.









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> My colors look off on 1080p content too. Mad Max looks washed out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


How about Netflix through your Xfinity box? Sorry to hear of your issues with your Shield after the hotfix.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> How about Netflix through your Xfinity box? Sorry to hear of your issues with your Shield after the hotfix.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Hmmmm, I was going over everything I did when hooking everything up after I painted the screen. I did 2 things different than when it was last working:

1. I installed the hotfix

2. I used HDMI 1 on the back of the projector, and when I had everything working properly, I was using HDMI 2. 

I switched back to HDMI 2, and everything seems to be good now. I think my HDMI 1 might have an issue. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

This is Mad Max now:









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

HDR10. Zoom in on Christian Bale's face to see the clarity. That's on a Black Flame painted screen, which I purchased from MississippiMan.









Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> HDR10. Zoom in on Christian Bale's face to see the clarity. That's on a Black Fire painted screen, which I purchased from MississippiMan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


That image is beautiful. Sharp detailed and the color really pops. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Hmmmm, I was going over everything I did when hooking everything up after I painted the screen. I did 2 things different than when it was last working:
> 
> 1. I installed the hotfix
> 
> 2. I used HDMI 1 on the back of the projector, and when I had everything working properly, I was using HDMI 2.
> 
> I switched back to HDMI 2, and everything seems to be good now. I think my HDMI 1 might have an issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Did you make sure HDMI 1 has EDID set to expanded?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Did you make sure HDMI 1 has EDID set to expanded?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I did not. I'm afraid to switch back to HDMI 1 since everything is working perfectly now. I'm even getting 709 on 1080p movies, instead of 2020 like I was before. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

*New 6050 Makes Noise*

Had my 6050 for a few days. Sometimes, when I turn it on, makes mechanical sounds (not the fan) that go away in a couple of minutes. Hard to describe, but sounds a bit like an inkjet printer going through the motions when it's turned on. Is this normal? Thanks.


----------



## MississippiMan

biglen said:


> HDR10. Zoom in on Christian Bale's face to see the clarity. That's on a Black Fire painted screen, which I purchased from MississippiMan.



So nice........................but it's "Black Flame" (...you were pretty "hot" though....)


----------



## Luminated67

dr bill said:


> OK, life lesson learned...
> 
> Out of sheer laziness, I was plugging into my AVR (Denon) via the front HDMI-in (Aux1).
> 
> After I eliminated all other possibilities on what was limiting the video signal (short HDMI, long HDMI) and hoping my new Denon AVR was not the problem, I simply unplugged from the Aux1 and into one of the back HDMI inputs on the Denon, and viola! I now get access to 81 Shield video settings, I can select the 59.94Hz 12-bit, 422 Rec2020, and it all works on the 5050 end!
> 
> Now, I can finally watch a UHD in peace, knowing I am getting the best signal.
> 
> Thanks, all, for your input and suggestions.


All this time you were plugged into the front hdmi?

I think if you check your manual you might find it’s only 1.4 not 2.0, I actually think it’s there more as an input rather then output to allow quick connection for camcorders etc.


----------



## Luminated67

Duplicate post


----------



## biglen

MississippiMan said:


> So nice........................but it's "Black Flame" (...you were pretty "hot" though....)


Oops, my bad. I edited my original post. The picture is stunning on that screen. I'm using Alaric's settings for now, but I'm sure they'll need to be tweaked a little. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

Luminated67 said:


> All this time you were plugged into the front hdmi?
> 
> I think if you check your manual you might find it’s only 1.4 not 2.0, I actually think it’s there more as an input rather then output to allow quick connection for camcorders etc.


Yup, lesson learned. No more AUX1 for this guy. Darn AUX1.


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Oops, my bad. I edited my original post. The picture is stunning on that screen. I'm using Alaric's settings for now, but I'm sure they'll need to be tweaked a little.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Even just via the camera phone that picture does look stunning. Black flame seems to be the real deal . @MississippiMan knows his home theater gear. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

I forgot to mention that last night something kind of weird happened a couple times when watching a bunch of different content. 2 different times, when I started playing 2 different movies, the entire right side of the screen was all out of whack with the colors, and the picture was kind of sparkling. It happened once on the Shield, and once on the Xfinity 4k box. When I restarted both movies, the issue went away. Anyone know what that could be, and should I be concerned?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## crossrh

BIC2 said:


> Had my 6050 for a few days. Sometimes, when I turn it on, makes mechanical sounds (not the fan) that go away in a couple of minutes. Hard to describe, but sounds a bit like an inkjet printer going through the motions when it's turned on. Is this normal? Thanks.


Mine does that, too. I think it's the Iris?


----------



## crossrh

Lexmak87 said:


> Hello everyone
> 
> 
> My name is Lex. I have recently been finding extremely useful information from this forum so i just signed up. I am moving next month and creating a dedicated theater room. I plan to go with the 6050UB by end of year or whenever I see it hopefully on sale. looking to do a 106" silver ticket fixed screen. My room is going to have dark paint on ceiling and walls and will be totally light controlled. I have an electrician coming next weekend. I am going to have him put in a electrical outlet on the ceiling for when the projector goes up. I also am going to have him run an HDMI cord out to where the outlet is as well and to where a receiver will go so im all setup. What i need help with is HDMI suggestions. I plan to have a receiver and Blu ray player capable of 4k so i want to make sure i get a good cable and one that doesn't allow the handshaking ive read about. Are there any options that are not outrageous you suggest? Preferably amazon if possible. At this moment i need the primary HDMI from what will go from receiver to PJ. So if you can suggest that and than maybe also ones for say Blu ray player etc that would be so helpful and appreciated. Thanks so much in advance everyone


Have him run at least two, good HDMI cables. I have one coming from the video-out of the Oppo 203 (that bypasses the receiver) and one that comes from the receiver.


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I forgot to mention that last night something kind of weird happened a couple times when watching a bunch of different content. 2 different times, when I started playing 2 different movies, the entire right side of the screen was all out of whack with the colors, and the picture was kind of sparkling. It happened once on the Shield, and once on the Xfinity 4k box. When I restarted both movies, the issue went away. Anyone know what that could be, and should I be concerned?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Minor handshake issue. It happens. Switching between the HDMI inputs on the projector will usually clear it up immediately. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Minor handshake issue. It happens. Switching between the HDMI inputs on the projector will usually clear it up immediately.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Ah, okay. Thanks for the info !

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

@biglen


Share the Screen Shot love on your Thread in DIY Screens. Many inquiring minds want to know / see.


TYVM


MM


----------



## BIC2

BIC2 said:


> Had my 6050 for a few days. Sometimes, when I turn it on, makes mechanical sounds (not the fan) that go away in a couple of minutes. Hard to describe, but sounds a bit like an inkjet printer going through the motions when it's turned on. Is this normal? Thanks.





crossrh said:


> Mine does that, too. I think it's the Iris?


I called Epson. They said it might be the Auto Iris. Mine was set to default HIGH SPEED, had me set it to OFF (the other option is NORMAL). I see in the manual, it mentions, "Depending on the image, you may hear the Auto Iris operating, but this is not a malfunction."

This only seems to happen at startup for a couple of minutes. But not every time. Any thoughts? Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Ah, okay. Thanks for the info !
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Your reciever is almost five years old in terms of technology so it can cause some intermittent handshake issues from time to time. I believe you have the 710. Should be fine most of the time. I have even experienced what you described once or twice with my Denon 6500. So many electronics all different brands trying to work together it only takes one hiccup anywhere in the chain to get a a minor issue once in a while.


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Your reciever is almost five years old in terms of technology so it can cause some intermittent handshake issues from time to time. I believe you have the 710. Should be fine most of the time. I have even experienced what you described once or twice with my Denon 6500. So many electronics all different brands trying to work together it only takes one hiccup anywhere in the chain to get a a minor issue once in a while.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah, I'm getting the itch to get a new receiver. The x3400 looks good. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

biglen said:


> I forgot to mention that last night something kind of weird happened a couple times when watching a bunch of different content. 2 different times, when I started playing 2 different movies, the entire right side of the screen was all out of whack with the colors, and the picture was kind of sparkling. It happened once on the Shield, and once on the Xfinity 4k box. When I restarted both movies, the issue went away. Anyone know what that could be, and should I be concerned?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk



I had some handshake issues with various sources when I was using a RuiPro fiber optic cable which went away when I switched to this Blue Jeans “Active” HDMI cable:

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/series3a.htm


----------



## biglen

MississippiMan said:


> @biglen
> 
> 
> Share the Screen Shot love on your Thread in DIY Screens. Many inquiring minds want to know / see.
> 
> 
> TYVM
> 
> 
> MM


I added some in the thread. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

biglen said:


> Yeah, I'm getting the itch to get a new receiver. *The x3400 looks good*.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I've really like my Denon 3400, especially at half off original MSRP. Good deals to be had out there.

Just don't use the HDMI AUX1 on the front of the unit!!! :grin:


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> I've really like my Denon 3400, especially at half off original MSRP. Good deals to be had out there.
> 
> 
> 
> Just don't use the HDMI AUX1 on the front of the unit!!! :grin:


The Denon 3500 can be found for almost same price as the 3400 since the 3600 came out. Still stay away from the HDMI on the front of all receivers.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

skylarlove1999 said:


> The Denon 3500 can be found for almost same price as the 3400 since the 3600 came out. Still stay away from the HDMI on the front of all receivers.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L51FDQ1/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_rfb

'Renewed' 3500 on Amazon for slightly more than I paid for my 3400! :nerd:


----------



## biglen

dr bill said:


> OK, life lesson learned...
> 
> 
> 
> Out of sheer laziness, I was plugging into my AVR (Denon) via the front HDMI-in (Aux1).
> 
> 
> 
> After I eliminated all other possibilities on what was limiting the video signal (short HDMI, long HDMI) and hoping my new Denon AVR was not the problem, I simply unplugged from the Aux1 and into one of the back HDMI inputs on the Denon, and viola! I now get access to 81 Shield video settings, I can select the 59.94Hz 12-bit, 422 Rec2020, and it all works on the 5050 end!
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I can finally watch a UHD in peace, knowing I am getting the best signal.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, all, for your input and suggestions.


When you first start watching an HDR film, do you first get sound, then the picture about 5 seconds later? 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> When you first start watching an HDR film, do you first get sound, then the picture about 5 seconds later?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


That has been my general experience I don't know if you were asking just Dr bill but I find that to be true.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Hey guys

I am enjoying my 5050ub so far but have some questions.

- I am using a 138" screen. I assume I NEED to use high power mode in order to actually have decent HDR? bat cave style room.

- I am using the provided settings ( HDR Accurate, HDR Bright and SDR ) and things look good when I use it in the recommended power mode ( high for HDR ) but when I step it down I do not notice a huge drop in lumens, but the image gets rather green. Are there calibrated settings that use the MEDIUM lamp mode available?

- If I decide to try to calibrate this myself, is there anything different for HDR calibration? or can I use my old 1080P blu ray calibration disc? or is there a new AVSForum recommended free calibration software?

Thank you !


----------



## rustolemite

Chris Corcoran said:


> Hey guys
> 
> I am enjoying my 5050ub so far but have some questions.
> 
> - I am using a 138" screen. I assume I NEED to use high power mode in order to actually have decent HDR? bat cave style room.
> 
> - I am using the provided settings ( HDR Accurate, HDR Bright and SDR ) and things look good when I use it in the recommended power mode ( high for HDR ) but when I step it down I do not notice a huge drop in lumens, but the image gets rather green. Are there calibrated settings that use the MEDIUM lamp mode available?
> 
> - If I decide to try to calibrate this myself, is there anything different for HDR calibration? or can I use my old 1080P blu ray calibration disc? or is there a new AVSForum recommended free calibration software?
> 
> Thank you !


Hey I am using a 137" SeymourAv AT screen and I use my 5050 on Eco Mode and get amazing HDR, the other modes on the projector from what I can see really only brighten the picture. I use either Dynamic or Bright Cinema and when using HDR, I run my brightness around 53.
I don't see any difference in the quality of my picture, only the brightness, when change fan modes.


----------



## CanadaMark

Luminated67 said:


> LOL, I’ve went through the whole process of converting dark grey walls and ceiling to black velour and the different is shocking so I can tell you the difference with a white room would be staggering.


Well, the world of HT is highly subjective. Your "staggering" might be the next person's "slightly". It's all relative. I've been in velvet bat-caves before and it's better but not so much better that it outweighs the eyesore of covering the main room of their basement in unsightly black fabric. If you have a dedicated theater room it's an easier decision. Just my opinion - no need to be rude about it, we're all here just trying to help each other out


----------



## DunMunro

CanadaMark said:


> Well, the world of HT is highly subjective. Your "staggering" might be the next person's "slightly". It's all relative. I've been in velvet bat-caves before and it's better but not so much better that it outweighs the eyesore of covering the main room of their basement in unsightly black fabric. If you have a dedicated theater room it's an easier decision. Just my opinion - no need to be rude about it, we're all here just trying to help each other out


It doesn't have to be either or. It's relatively easy to add curtain rods and black drapes. Keep them open and tied off for a bright room, and close them for maximum theatre effect.


----------



## skylarlove1999

CanadaMark said:


> Well, the world of HT is highly subjective. Your "staggering" might be the next person's "slightly". It's all relative. I've been in velvet bat-caves before and it's better but not so much better that it outweighs the eyesore of covering the main room of their basement in unsightly black fabric. If you have a dedicated theater room it's an easier decision. Just my opinion - no need to be rude about it, we're all here just trying to help each other out


I agree with @Luminated67 in regards to a blacked out velvet environment is a night and day difference in image quality compared to a white room. But for other people like yourself it seems to not have as much an impact which like you said it is all relative. Some people wouldn't notice the difference between 4K and 1080P. Still others don't see any difference between a Silver Ticket screen and a Stewart Film Studiotek 100 screen. I failed to see anything rude in @lumiated67 comments. He was as you suggested just trying to share his opinion within the community. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Lucky Strike

Just spent all of last evening reading about this projector and getting real excited (going from 2.35 to 16:9 with a touch of a button is a dream of mine) that it could be my first 4k PJ only to then find out that its throw range doesn't work with my screen/room. Lesson learned...before reading PJ reviews check the throw calculator first 

Oh well, I'll have to keep an eye on this model line though for when we get a new house in the next 3 or so years.


----------



## Bklynblaze

scottyroo said:


> Figured I would get the hands-on thread going to augment the rumors thread that has been going.
> 
> Epson HC5050UB has started to get into customers' hands on the eve of being officially announced next week on April 9th.
> 
> What we know:
> 
> Price: $2,999.00 (made it to the sub $3k forum by $1!)
> 
> Same chassis as 4000, 5040UB, 4010, 4050 etc etc etc
> 
> The big one... finally 18gbps HDMI
> 
> Early reviews of the EU equivalent TW-9400 are starting to make their way online
> 
> I posted a quick video of my test bench I will be using to review and compare to BenQ's new HT5550. Stay tuned.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FVVHldijV0


Great video. 

Question..Out of the Epson 5050, BenQ HT5550 and BenQ TK800M...which one is best for viewing sports broadcast in 1080P? I'm a huge sports fan so this is important to me. Thank you!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Lucky Strike said:


> Just spent all of last evening reading about this projector and getting real excited (going from 2.35 to 16:9 with a touch of a button is a dream of mine) that it could be my first 4k PJ only to then find out that its throw range doesn't work with my screen/room. Lesson learned...before reading PJ reviews check the throw calculator first
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, I'll have to keep an eye on this model line though for when we get a new house in the next 3 or so years.


Very sorry to hear that. It is very surprising since the throw on the Epson 5050 series is really forgiving. What projector do you currently have that is able to do a better throw for you than the Epson I'm just curious?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

Lucky Strike said:


> Just spent all of last evening reading about this projector and getting real excited (going from 2.35 to 16:9 with a touch of a button is a dream of mine) that it could be my first 4k PJ only to then find out that its throw range doesn't work with my screen/room. Lesson learned...before reading PJ reviews check the throw calculator first
> 
> Oh well, I'll have to keep an eye on this model line though for when we get a new house in the next 3 or so years.


Be sure you check the official Epson calculator (select the 5040 option). Some of the others online aren't accurate. Calculate it for 2 16:9 screens. The first screen using the height of your desired 2.35:1 screen size and the second 16:9 screen using the width of the 2.35:1 screen. Where the throw range overlaps on the 2 screens is where you can mount it.


----------



## CanadaMark

skylarlove1999 said:


> I failed to see anything rude in his comments. He was as you suggested just trying to share his opinion within the community.


When you begin your reply to someone's experience with an all-caps "LOL", that very much suggests he thought my experience was somehow so ridiculous or absurd that he laughed out loud. I was only sharing my observations as an attempt to help the poster I had originally quoted. The golden rule of HT whether it be audio or video related is to not pay for things you personally can't really notice, so it struck me as an odd reaction.


----------



## Lucky Strike

skylarlove1999 said:


> Very sorry to hear that. It is very surprising since the throw on the Epson 5050 series is really forgiving. What projector do you currently have that is able to do a better throw for you than the Epson I'm just curious?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



In my case I need something with a shorter throw due to HVAC and some other obstacles (like a staircase) blocking the ideal ceiling joist bays in my basement theater.

The farthest away from my screen I was able to mount my projector was 10'. Rear bookshelf wasn't an option due to a fireplace. I've currently got a 115" 16:9 Seymour AT screen but have always wanted do be able to do a Constant Height setup with a 2.35 screen and some masking panels. 

Current PJ is BenQ 1070....I had settled on a HT3550 at first for my jump to 4k since the throw is exactly the same but then I started reading about the 5050 and its motorized lens and got all excited. Looks like I'll just get the 3550 for now and if we do buy a new place (and if we do it'll definitely have a space for a new theater room) I'll have the chance to do a new theater build and finally get the CH setup I've always wanted.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Bklynblaze said:


> Great video.
> 
> 
> 
> Question..Out of the Epson 5050, BenQ HT5550 and BenQ TK800M...which one is best for viewing sports broadcast in 1080P? I'm a huge sports fan so this is important to me. Thank you!


I would say that the BenQ HT5550 would have a slight advantage over the Epson 5050ub for sports viewing. Better motion. If you google the two projectors using versus you will have plenty to watch and read. For movies the Epson has the advantage. I would say that you should try and view both so you can make an informed decision which is best for you. Some people are also more effected by RBE that can occur with DLP based projectors. No RBE to contend with LCD based projectors. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

CanadaMark said:


> When you begin your reply to someone's experience with an all-caps "LOL", that very much suggests he thought my experience was somehow so ridiculous or absurd that he laughed out loud. I was only sharing my observations as an attempt to help the poster I had originally quoted. The golden rule of HT whether it be audio or video related is to not pay for things you personally can't really notice, so it struck me as an odd reaction.


I can understand that. I am sure @Luminated67 did not mean it that way or to offend you. I appreciate your perspective. One of the flaws of text based communication instead of in-person.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Lucky Strike said:


> In my case I need something with a shorter throw due to HVAC and some other obstacles (like a staircase) blocking the ideal ceiling joist bays in my basement theater.
> 
> 
> 
> The farthest away from my screen I was able to mount my projector was 10'. Rear bookshelf wasn't an option due to a fireplace. I've currently got a 115" 16:9 Seymour AT screen but have always wanted do be able to do a Constant Height setup with a 2.35 screen and some masking panels.
> 
> 
> 
> Current PJ is BenQ 1070....I had settled on a HT3550 at first for my jump to 4k since the throw is exactly the same but then I started reading about the 5050 and its motorized lens and got all excited. Looks like I'll just get the 3550 for now and if we do buy a new place (and if we do it'll definitely have a space for a new theater room) I'll have the chance to do a new theater build and finally get the CH setup I've always wanted.


Thanks for explaining. I think you would probably not get the size you want from 10 ft away. Couldn't hurt reaching out to Epson to be 100% certain. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

Lucky Strike said:


> In my case I need something with a shorter throw due to HVAC and some other obstacles (like a staircase) blocking the ideal ceiling joist bays in my basement theater.
> 
> The farthest away from my screen I was able to mount my projector was 10'. Rear bookshelf wasn't an option due to a fireplace. I've currently got a 115" 16:9 Seymour AT screen but have always wanted do be able to do a Constant Height setup with a 2.35 screen and some masking panels.
> 
> Current PJ is BenQ 1070....I had settled on a HT3550 at first for my jump to 4k since the throw is exactly the same but then I started reading about the 5050 and its motorized lens and got all excited. Looks like I'll just get the 3550 for now and if we do buy a new place (and if we do it'll definitely have a space for a new theater room) I'll have the chance to do a new theater build and finally get the CH setup I've always wanted.


Keep in mind the Epson has both vertical and horizontal lens shift. So it doesn't have to be exactly centered the way a fixed offset DLP does. Might give you some placement options you hadn't considered.


----------



## Bklynblaze

skylarlove1999 said:


> I would say that the BenQ HT5550 would have a slight advantage over the Epson 5050ub for sports viewing. Better motion. If you google the two projectors using versus you will have plenty to watch and read. For movies the Epson has the advantage. I would say that you should try and view both so you can make an informed decision which is best for you. Some people are also more effected by RBE that can occur with DLP based projectors. No RBE to contend with LCD based projectors.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you. Even better than the TK800M which is touted as the sports projector with it's football mode...etc?


----------



## jeahrens

Bklynblaze said:


> Thank you. Even better than the TK800M which is touted as the sports projector with it's football mode...etc?


It's not going to be better with motion. Most would say the Epson is good enough when it comes to motion handling. The Epson is so much better in about every other category though. It's in a different league overall picture quality wise.


----------



## Bklynblaze

jeahrens said:


> It's not going to be better with motion. Most would say the Epson is good enough when it comes to motion handling. The Epson is so much better in about every other category though. It's in a different league overall picture quality wise.


I'm not sensitive to motion so I'm sure it would be fine. I'm also assuming the difference in lumens TK800M at 3,000 lumens compared to 1,800 lumens for the 5550 won't matter much since it will be in the basement and controlled lighting setting.


----------



## jeahrens

Bklynblaze said:


> I'm not sensitive to motion so I'm sure it would be fine. I'm also assuming the difference in lumens TK800M at 3,000 lumens compared to 1,800 lumens for the 5550 won't matter much since it will be in the basement and controlled lighting setting.


Yeah I would take the manufacturers lumens claims with a grain of salt. The Epson 5050UB can hit over 2000 lumens with a fairly acccurate picture (over 1800 lumens calibrated). I bet once you switch off things like brilliant color to try get the DLP anywhere close to accurate you're probably looking at 1500 or less. Granted some DLPs are better than others here and the TK800 may be better than I'm thinking, but generally claimed lumens vs. calibrated reality are usually a ways apart for a lot of these DLPs (most of it due to brilliant color).


----------



## DunMunro

Bklynblaze said:


> Great video.
> 
> Question..Out of the Epson 5050, BenQ HT5550 and BenQ TK800M...which one is best for viewing sports broadcast in 1080P? I'm a huge sports fan so this is important to me. Thank you!



I've posted a link to another video review of the TK800M where the reviewer looks at a variety of content including sports:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...nced-4k-hdr-dlp-projector-4.html#post58485360


----------



## Luminated67

CanadaMark said:


> Well, the world of HT is highly subjective. Your "staggering" might be the next person's "slightly". It's all relative. I've been in velvet bat-caves before and it's better but not so much better that it outweighs the eyesore of covering the main room of their basement in unsightly black fabric. If you have a dedicated theater room it's an easier decision. Just my opinion - no need to be rude about it, we're all here just trying to help each other out


It will really depend on your projector, some will benefit more from a complete velvet blackout than others, with the right projector I can assure you the difference between white walls/ceiling and fully velvet bat cave isn’t slight. LOL

BTW sorry if adding a LOL constituted as being rude, will try to refrain from using it in the future. LOL Sorry old habits LOL darn it I did it again.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> Yeah I would take the manufacturers lumens claims with a grain of salt. The Epson 5050UB can hit over 2000 lumens with a fairly acccurate picture (over 1800 lumens calibrated). I bet once you switch off things like brilliant color to try get the DLP anywhere close to accurate you're probably looking at 1500 or less. Granted some DLPs are better than others here and the TK800 may be better than I'm thinking, but generally claimed lumens vs. calibrated reality are usually a ways apart for a lot of these DLPs (most of it due to brilliant color).


Of the three projectors the Epson is the best overall. The 5550 a close second. The 800 a distant third. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## AudioVideo007

Are there instructions how to change aspect ratio to 2.35:1 with the press of a button?

Also anyone have any good settings for live tv sports viewing which is always 1080p?


----------



## Bklynblaze

skylarlove1999 said:


> Of the three projectors the Epson is the best overall. The 5550 a close second. The 800 a distant third.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Wow...really? I've seen nothing but positive reviews for the TK800M. When you say distant 3rd, do you mean for 4K content or is that including 1080p conversion as well? A projector that displays 1080p content excellently is very important to me since most of my viewing is cable/sports.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Bklynblaze said:


> Wow...really? I've seen nothing but positive reviews for the TK800M. When you say distant 3rd, do you mean for 4K content or is that including 1080p conversion as well? A projector that displays 1080p content excellently is very important to me since most of my viewing is cable/sports.


For 1080p content it is a great option and does a great job with motion and sports especially football. Reviews have said it does a great job with 4K and HDR. That being said the lens is inferior to the 5050 and the 5550. Very poor black levels and shadow detail. Some owners have said they notice more of the rainbow effect on this projector. Movies have many black scenes and shadowy scenes. This is where you will significantly below the performance of either the 5050 or 5550. I have not seen the TK800M I am only going by professional and user reviews. I have seen both the 5050 and 5550 . Both have their strengths and weaknesses. I own a 6050.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

AudioVideo007 said:


> Are there instructions how to change aspect ratio to 2.35:1 with the press of a button?
> 
> Also anyone have any good settings for live tv sports viewing which is always 1080p?


It's simple. I figured it out without even looking at the manual. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> It's simple. I figured it out without even looking at the manual.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Maybe you could post those simple instructions? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## AudioVideo007

biglen said:


> It's simple. I figured it out without even looking at the manual.


That was really unhelpful to say the least.


----------



## biglen

AudioVideo007 said:


> That was really unhelpful to say the least.


My bad, I'm not home so I don't have the remote in my hand. I've never owned a projector before, and I know it was easy. Set your screen with the lens button, then press the memory button. It should be explanatory once you're in the memory section. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## reechings

If most of my viewing is TV shows and I can live with the black bars when watching movies I'm assuming that the biggest 16:9 I can get is the way to go right?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> If most of my viewing is TV shows and I can live with the black bars when watching movies I'm assuming that the biggest 16:9 I can get is the way to go right?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


You are correct sir although not sure I can condone spending money on a projector to mostly watch television. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> You are correct sir although not sure I can condone spending money on a projector to mostly watch television.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Well I do mean "prestige" tv haha

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

biglen said:


> My bad, I'm not home so I don't have the remote in my hand. I've never owned a projector before, and I know it was easy. Set your screen with the lens button, then press the memory button. It should be explanatory once you're in the memory section.



Absolutely. The Epson's Lens Memory is almost as intuitive as was the Panny 8000. Almost....you do have to press a button to engage it, whereas the Panny "sensed" the Format and did it all automatically. Demo'ing that feature to the uninitiated was always a hoot, especially on a non-format specific surface that allowed for the maximum size for both formats. Watching a 2.39:1 image just keep getting wider and taller on a Wall is more than impressive...it's downright epic!




reechings said:


> If most of my viewing is TV shows and I can live with the black bars when watching movies I'm assuming that the biggest 16:9 I can get is the way to go right?



Iffin' ya have'ta.....but only iffin' ya have'ta.


I haven't done up / installed a conventionally framed, specific formatted Screen since 2013 (...my last Spandex AT application...), keeping with the use of only projectors that had the Lens Memory feature (1st the Panny 8K, then the Epsons and JVCs ) and all of 'em were entire Walls that were smoothed and painted with Screen paint. Only one was a installation where the Center Channel was "conventional" and mounted up high on the Wall.


Instead, when such was what was needed because conventional speakers were in play, I have advised several Members in the construction of Acoustic Transparent "Screen Walls" where all the front Speaker array was behind a Wall to Wall / Floor to Ceiling Spandex surface. Again...this was to accommodate "any" Format...up to and including IMAX-oriented content.

As I see things, fixed Formatted screens are a anachronism, a hold over from the past, and come with all the caveats most owners rail about, but accept as necessary evils.

So if you can consider building a Screen Wall (AT) or painting a entire Wall, the satisfaction index will be decidedly greater in the end.

And hey! With the 5050, there is the Lumen horsepower to drive humongous sized images, even on surfaces that are well under 1.0 gain, so.......?


----------



## AudioVideo007

biglen said:


> My bad, I'm not home so I don't have the remote in my hand. I've never owned a projector before, and I know it was easy. Set your screen with the lens button, then press the memory button. It should be explanatory once you're in the memory section.


Thank you but I can’t figure it. None points to changing the aspect ratio in any shape without the need for anamorphic lens. I can zoom in and out but aspect ratio is always 16:9 without the anamorphic lens.


----------



## skylarlove1999

AudioVideo007 said:


> Thank you but I can’t figure it. None points to changing the aspect ratio in any shape without the need for anamorphic lens. I can zoom in and out but aspect ratio is always 16:9 without the anamorphic lens.


Don't feel bad this is my 5th projector from Epson in the last 10 years I've been trying to play around with it as well and I can't figure out how to do it. I thought I was smart before I try to do this LOL

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

AudioVideo007 said:


> Thank you but I can’t figure it. None points to changing the aspect ratio in any shape without the need for anamorphic lens. I can zoom in and out but aspect ratio is always 16:9 without the anamorphic lens.





skylarlove1999 said:


> Don't feel bad this is my 5th projector from Epson in the last 10 years I've been trying to play around with it as well and I can't figure out how to do it. I thought I was smart before I try to do this LOL


C'mon you'se Guys!



Go to page 72/73 in the Online user manual. The simple Aspect Ratio instructions are there. Further "Lens Memory" elaborations are on page 94 thru 97



Here is a link to the online pdf.


https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56386.pdf


----------



## skylarlove1999

I know there are much better projectors out there than my 6050 but right now I just have a hard time thinking it could be worth how much more I would have to pay to get it.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

MississippiMan said:


> C'mon you'se Guys!
> 
> 
> 
> Go to page 72/73 in the Online user manual. The simple Aspect Ratio instructions are there. Further "Lens Memory" elaborations are on page 94 thru 97
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the online pdf.
> 
> 
> https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56386.pdf


I am stubborn I was trying to do it without reading the manual thank you for leading me in the right direction yet again

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am stubborn I was trying to do it without reading the manual thank you for leading me in the right direction yet again



S'alright.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MississippiMan said:


> C'mon you'se Guys!
> 
> 
> 
> Go to page 72/73 in the Online user manual. The simple Aspect Ratio instructions are there. Further "Lens Memory" elaborations are on page 94 thru 97
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the online pdf.
> 
> 
> https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56386.pdf


Why would Auto be grayed out? I know it must be recognizing another setting I have switched on but which setting?









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

skylarlove1999 said:


> Why would Auto be grayed out? I know it must be recognizing another setting I have switched on but which setting?


Whadda I knows s'bout nuthin? Nuthin'! 

Really, I can't say based on the image....but one way to resolve any mismatch is to reset the PJ's setting to Factory. 

One thing could be the signal the PJ is receiving.....so turning off any input to the PJ might resolve the issue. Or...it mat well be the opposite, and you must have a input active to set the parameter. Usually when you have a Greyed out selection, it is because it does not / cannot apply.



I haven't held a 5050 in my hands as of yet...just a slew of 5040s, so in that respect I'm almost no help at this juncture.


----------



## jeahrens

reechings said:


> Well I do mean "prestige" tv haha
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Keep in mind a LOT of prestige television is wider than 1.78:1. Most Netflix content for example is 2.00:1. The wider the AR the smaller and smaller it gets. If you don't want to go all the way to scope, a 2.00:1 screen is a fantastic compromise.


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Why would Auto be grayed out? I know it must be recognizing another setting I have switched on but which setting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Note: When projecting a 4K signal, you can select only Normal as the aspect ratio setting.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

I don't know if I did it right, but for my Scope memory, I just pressed the lens button while watching a widescreen movie, and I used the lens buttons to make the picture the size I wanted. Then I saved that in the Memory section. Then I played a 16:9 movie, and did the same thing, saving that to memory too. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

AudioVideo007 said:


> Thank you but I can’t figure it. None points to changing the aspect ratio in any shape without the need for anamorphic lens. I can zoom in and out but aspect ratio is always 16:9 without the anamorphic lens.


The active picture area is not always 16:9 though. You zoom that active area to fit within the screen area. If it's a 2.35:1 movie on a 2.35:1 screen you zoom the active picture area to fill it. The black bars (unused areas of the 16:9 panel) are now being projected onto the screen border and wall. The diagram below shows how the various ARs are shown on different screens. A scope film is 75% larger on a scope screen than a comparable 1.78:1 (16:9) screen. For ARs other than 2.35:1 you just zoom until you have filled the height of the screen and make a lens memory position there. The pillarboxing really doesn't impact picture quality as, unlike letterboxing on a 1.78:1 screen, it is not lit by the panel. You also get an added bonus that since the letterbox bars are no longer in the picture area, perceived contrast increases.


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Note: When projecting a 4K signal, you can select only Normal as the aspect ratio setting.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk[/quote @biglen so if I understand you correctly you have to feed the projector a 1080p with 4k enhancement shut off to set up a lens memory for cinemascope? I will try it at some point I guess. Just between the AVR the cable the source and the projector I don't want to create any handshakes issues by changing settings around in my AVR. I might be able to force my Roku player to send a 1080 p signal if I plug it directly into the projector. Thanks for replying.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

biglen said:


> I don't know if I did it right, but for my Scope memory, I just pressed the lens button while watching a widescreen movie, and I used the lens buttons to make the picture the size I wanted. Then I saved that in the Memory section. Then I played a 16:9 movie, and did the same thing, saving that to memory too.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Nope you got it. On my JVC I have the following lens memory presets (they call them installation modes):

2.35:1
2.20:1
2.00:1
1.85:1
1.78:1

Just zoom - shift - focus and save.


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> biglen said:
> 
> 
> 
> Note: When projecting a 4K signal, you can select only Normal as the aspect ratio setting.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk[/quote @biglen so if I understand you correctly you have to feed the projector a 1080p with 4k enhancement shut off to set up a lens memory for cinemascope? I will try it at some point I guess. Just between the AVR the cable the source and the projector I don't want to create any handshakes issues by changing settings around in my AVR. I might be able to force my Roku player to send a 1080 p signal if I plug it directly into the projector. Thanks for replying.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure. I was just quoting the manual.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## sirius_basterd

I have a major problem buying electronics because I'm so worried about next year's model being so much better. Any reason to wait around for another year or two (for HDMI 2.1?) or just get this now? I'm currently running a Panasonic PT-AE2000U, which is 1080p but not very bright, and I'd have to get a new receiver and HDMI cables etc.


----------



## jeahrens

sirius_basterd said:


> I have a major problem buying electronics because I'm so worried about next year's model being so much better. Any reason to wait around for another year or two (for HDMI 2.1?) or just get this now? I'm currently running a Panasonic PT-AE2000U, which is 1080p but not very bright, and I'd have to get a new receiver and HDMI cables etc.


Next month we have both Cedia and IFA Berlin. Both will see the introduction of new projectors. I haven't heard any rumors that would lead me to believe there will be a new competitor in the 5050 price range. The only thing exciting on the new projector front is that Epson is rumored to be releasing a new laser unit. Which may or may not be native 4K. But if that ends up true I look for it to be competing higher up in price than the 5050.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> Next month we have both Cedia and IFA Berlin. Both will see the introduction of new projectors. I haven't heard any rumors that would lead me to believe there will be a new competitor in the 5050 price range. The only thing exciting on the new projector front is that Epson is rumored to be releasing a new laser unit. Which may or may not be native 4K. But if that ends up true I look for it to be competing higher up in price than the 5050.


Agreed I expect that new Epson laser projector to be in the $8-10k range. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure. I was just quoting the manual.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Still can't find the magic to unlock that Auto selection for Aspect ratio. Switched to 1080 and Auto is still grayed out. I don't find any way to do it other than resetting the projector and just not remembering setting aspect ratio as part of the original setup. If anyone is just taking their 5050 or 6050 out of the box please let me know if choosing aspect ratio is part of the original settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


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## reechings

MississippiMan said:


> Absolutely. The Epson's Lens Memory is almost as intuitive as was the Panny 8000. Almost....you do have to press a button to engage it, whereas the Panny "sensed" the Format and did it all automatically. Demo'ing that feature to the uninitiated was always a hoot, especially on a non-format specific surface that allowed for the maximum size for both formats. Watching a 2.39:1 image just keep getting wider and taller on a Wall is more than impressive...it's downright epic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Iffin' ya have'ta.....but only iffin' ya have'ta.
> 
> 
> I haven't done up / installed a conventionally framed, specific formatted Screen since 2013 (...my last Spandex AT application...), keeping with the use of only projectors that had the Lens Memory feature (1st the Panny 8K, then the Epsons and JVCs ) and all of 'em were entire Walls that were smoothed and painted with Screen paint. Only one was a installation where the Center Channel was "conventional" and mounted up high on the Wall.
> 
> 
> Instead, when such was what was needed because conventional speakers were in play, I have advised several Members in the construction of Acoustic Transparent "Screen Walls" where all the front Speaker array was behind a Wall to Wall / Floor to Ceiling Spandex surface. Again...this was to accommodate "any" Format...up to and including IMAX-oriented content.
> 
> As I see things, fixed Formatted screens are a anachronism, a hold over from the past, and come with all the caveats most owners rail about, but accept as necessary evils.
> 
> So if you can consider building a Screen Wall (AT) or painting a entire Wall, the satisfaction index will be decidedly greater in the end.
> 
> And hey! With the 5050, there is the Lumen horsepower to drive humongous sized images, even on surfaces that are well under 1.0 gain, so.......?


Love that idea, don't know why I didn't clue in to it earlier. I'll just paint the whole wall with the special paint and make sure it's nice and smooth then I can make the screen as big or small as I want. Also if I need more or less gain I can just paint again. Plus when the projector is turned off it will just look like a relatively normal wall. Thanks man!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> Love that idea, don't know why I didn't clue in to it earlier. I'll just paint the whole wall with the special paint and make sure it's nice and smooth then I can make the screen as big or small as I want. Also if I need more or less gain I can just paint again. Plus when the projector is turned off it will just look like a relatively normal wall. Thanks man!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk[/quote @MississippiMan is the guy for painted screens. He helped me with mine, and it turned out beautiful. I chose to purchase it already mixed, as opposed to running around trying to find all the tints needed. Plus, you're getting a professional mix, instead of trying to measure everything yourself. It's really worth paying the little extra to have it premixed.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> reechings said:
> 
> 
> 
> Love that idea, don't know why I didn't clue in to it earlier. I'll just paint the whole wall with the special paint and make sure it's nice and smooth then I can make the screen as big or small as I want. Also if I need more or less gain I can just paint again. Plus when the projector is turned off it will just look like a relatively normal wall. Thanks man!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk[/quote @MississippiMan is the guy for painted screens. He helped me with mine, and it turned out beautiful. I chose to purchase it already mixed, as opposed to running around trying to find all the tints needed. Plus, you're getting a professional mix, instead of trying to measure everything yourself. It's really worth paying the little extra to have it premixed.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I found your thread about it, I'll ask you about it there. Looks great!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## Spaded21

Regarding the color space issues with the Nvidia Shield, I'm not sure if anyone's posted it yet, I just stumbled across this post while researching the issue myself, but it's a known issue with the last update. Check this thread to get a hotfix pushed to your device.


----------



## aeneas01

n/m.


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## reechings

So how obvious is the screen door effect on a screen size of 130-150" sitting about 10-12 feet away?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## sddawson

jeahrens said:


> The active picture area is not always 16:9 though. You zoom that active area to fit within the screen area. If it's a 2.35:1 movie on a 2.35:1 screen you zoom the active picture area to fill it. The black bars (unused areas of the 16:9 panel) are now being projected onto the screen border and wall. The diagram below shows how the various ARs are shown on different screens. A scope film is 75% larger on a scope screen than a comparable 1.78:1 (16:9) screen. For ARs other than 2.35:1 you just zoom until you have filled the height of the screen and make a lens memory position there. The pillarboxing really doesn't impact picture quality as, unlike letterboxing on a 1.78:1 screen, it is not lit by the panel. You also get an added bonus that since the letterbox bars are no longer in the picture area, perceived contrast increases.


This has got me seriously considering changing my 16:9 screen for a scope one. Letterbox bars really bother me using my 9400. I’ve done a fair bit of room treatment (velvet curtains on side walls, Rossco paint on ceiling, dark grey carpet, bat cave), but the greyness of the bars still bothers me. Would it be considered “normal” to always see the bars as grey compared to the black of a velvet screen surround? And it’s harder to mask horizontally. 

I’d never twigged before that if you go scope, when you project a 16:9 image the pillar box bars are not part of the projected image. Does that mean they’re perceived as essentially black, with no need for masking at the sides?


----------



## kevings

Today I hit the buy button on a 5050 and a Panasonic 820. Looking forward to joining you guys in here. My theater is torn apart right now, since I'm also installing 3 21 inch Devastator subs, along with new flooring and baseboards, but I'm hoping to have everything back together asap.


----------



## skylarlove1999

kevings said:


> Today I hit the buy button on a 5050 and a Panasonic 820. Looking forward to joining you guys in here. My theater is torn apart right now, since I'm also installing 3 21 inch Devastator subs, along with new flooring and baseboards, but I'm hoping to have everything back together asap.


Welcome to the family. That is some serious bass. Don't bother with the flooring. Sounds like it won't be there after a couple weeks with those 3 subs.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## gibson61

sddawson said:


> This has got me seriously considering changing my 16:9 screen for a scope one. Letterbox bars really bother me using my 9400. I’ve done a fair bit of room treatment (velvet curtains on side walls, Rossco paint on ceiling, dark grey carpet, bat cave), but the greyness of the bars still bothers me. Would it be considered “normal” to always see the bars as grey compared to the black of a velvet screen surround? And it’s harder to mask horizontally.
> 
> I’d never twigged before that if you go scope, when you project a 16:9 image the pillar box bars are not part of the projected image. Does that mean they’re perceived as essentially black, with no need for masking at the sides?



Best move I ever made was to sell my 16:9 Screen and buy a 130in 2:35 scope screen . It really makes a difference. Looks killer and when the movie starts and you here wow 's all around.


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## sddawson

gibson61 said:


> Best move I ever made was to sell my 16:9 Screen and buy a 130in 2:35 scope screen . It really makes a difference. Looks killer and when the movie starts and you here wow 's all around.


If I do change, the actual picture size of a scope movie will be the same as I have now - my AT 16:9 screen fills the width of the front wall. Watching 16:9 I would, of course, end up with a smaller picture (with pillar box bars), but that doesn’t bother me that much. What made the most difference for you? Is it just the fact that the scope screen is better “masked” by the screen borders?


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## biglen

sddawson said:


> If I do change, the actual picture size of a scope movie will be the same as I have now - my AT 16:9 screen fills the width of the front wall. Watching 16:9 I would, of course, end up with a smaller picture (with pillar box bars), but that doesn’t bother me that much. What made the most difference for you? Is it just the fact that the scope screen is better “masked” by the screen borders?


Have you considered a paint on screen? It will eliminate the black bars. 

Sent from my SM-T520 using Tapatalk


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## luismanrara

I posted this yesterday by mistake in the 5040 thread. I saw this comparison done by TV Specialists and I thought it was interesting that the Epson is being compared to units costing more than twice as much.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=yUroCr7AtDo


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## MidnightWatcher

luismanrara said:


> I posted this yesterday by mistake in the 5040 thread. I saw this comparison done by TV Specialists and I thought it was interesting that the Epson is being compared to units costing more than twice as much.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=yUroCr7AtDo


Great comparison, all have their pros and cons. Overall, the Epson is the best value proposition imho, despite the SDE when zoomed in to you'd-never-sit-this-close levels. The modified Z65 did better than I expected in the contrast comparison and the NX7 didn't do as good as the reputation would have me believe. Overall, I preferred Epson's brightness though I would personally dial a setting or two back just a tad to minimise blowing out some highlights.


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## amdar

Any recommended suspended ceiling mount for 5050UB. my basement has 2 x 2 drop ceiling tiles.


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## Luminated67

luismanrara said:


> I posted this yesterday by mistake in the 5040 thread. I saw this comparison done by TV Specialists and I thought it was interesting that the Epson is being compared to units costing more than twice as much.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=yUroCr7AtDo


It’s amazing how close they needed to go before the Epson’s grid and resolution became apparent. Also am L the only one who actually preferred the images from the Epson.


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## skylarlove1999

amdar said:


> Any recommended suspended ceiling mount for 5050UB. my basement has 2 x 2 drop ceiling tiles.


I cut a piece of wood to go between my floor joists and secured the wood to my floor joists with four 4 inch lag screws. Screwed the mount into the wood before I screwed the wood between the floor joists. Would anything like this be possible for you?









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> It’s amazing how close they needed to go before the Epson’s grid and resolution became apparent. Also am L the only one who actually preferred the images from the Epson.


I thought the Epson images all looked a tad bit brighter and detailed. I did prefer them as well. Maybe it is owner bias LOL

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## MississippiMan

amdar said:


> Any recommended suspended ceiling mount for 5050UB. my basement has 2 x 2 drop ceiling tiles.



The one @skylarlove1999 showed is the Chief 357 Elite Dedicated. There is also the Chief RPA 357 ($40.00+ less expensive) Either is the "Bomb".



His install is very sturdy, but for a more "cleaner" look the Electrical / HDMI can be routed down through the Drop Tube and out the back of the Mount.


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## MississippiMan

sddawson said:


> If I do change, the actual picture size of a scope movie will be the same as I have now - my AT 16:9 screen fills the width of the front wall. Watching 16:9 I would, of course, end up with a smaller picture (with pillar box bars), but that doesn’t bother me that much. What made the most difference for you? Is it just the fact that the scope screen is better “masked” by the screen borders?


If both your 16:9 and 2.39:1 Images are of C.I.W. (Constant Image Width)...with a 5050 / 6050 and it's Automatic Lens Memory, you can set just the Vertical Lens Shift to drop the Image and then use a Electric Top Horizontal Mask (Roller Type w/Remote) or Manual Drapery Pull.

As of now you would not have Vertical "Pillars"....you would only have 2 Horizontal "Bars", and in those cases, shifting the Image down so that you have only the Top to mask is almost always preferable.

Your 16:9 image fills the entire Wall, eh? So how much is that exactly in comparison to your actual Screen Wall Width? Throw Distance? Room's anti-reflective" treatment?


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## skylarlove1999

MississippiMan said:


> The one @skylarlove1999 showed is the Chief 357 Elite Dedicated. There is also the Chief RPA 357 ($40.00+ less expensive) Either is the "Bomb".
> 
> 
> 
> His install is very sturdy, but for a more "cleaner" look the Electrical / HDMI can be routed down through the Drop Tube and out the back of the Mount.[/quote @MississippiMan is 100% correct. I can hang from my mount and it is a great mount. I forgot to drill a hole in my wood board and I have just been too lazy to take the projector down to drill the hole in the wood board. The mounting plate that is built for the Epson 5050 has a hole in it, so you could just feed the power cable for the projector and your HDMI cable under the mounting plate through that hole, up the pipe and out the top, as long as you cut a hole in the wood board.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## amdar

That's great idea and very neatly mounted. Thanks for sharing. Yes, i could attach a wood panel between the floor joists. 




skylarlove1999 said:


> I cut a piece of wood to go between my floor joists and secured the wood to my floor joists with four 4 inch lag screws. Screwed the mount into the wood before I screwed the wood between the floor joists. Would anything like this be possible for you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## amdar

Thanks for the information. I will check the RPA 357. 



MississippiMan said:


> The one @skylarlove1999 showed is the Chief 357 Elite Dedicated. There is also the Chief RPA 357 ($40.00+ less expensive) Either is the "Bomb".
> 
> 
> 
> His install is very sturdy, but for a more "cleaner" look the Electrical / HDMI can be routed down through the Drop Tube and out the back of the Mount.


----------



## skylarlove1999

amdar said:


> That's great idea and very neatly mounted. Thanks for sharing. Yes, i could attach a wood panel between the floor joists.


Keep in mind the threaded pipe that my mount that came with my 6050 wasn't long enough for my situation because I have that soffit between my projector and the screen. I already had the pipe from my previous mount. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## sddawson

biglen said:


> Have you considered a paint on screen? It will eliminate the black bars.
> 
> Sent from my SM-T520 using Tapatalk


Excuse my ignorance, but how does that work? I’d still be projecting a scope movie with letterbox bars, so how does the painted screen eliminate the bars? This is a moot point for me, since I have an AT screen, but I’m still interested!


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## biglen

sddawson said:


> Excuse my ignorance, but how does that work? I’d still be projecting a scope movie with letterbox bars, so how does the painted screen eliminate the bars? This is a moot point for me, since I have an AT screen, but I’m still interested!


If you get the right screen paint, which I did, the bars will just disappear into the wall. That's why I did the entire wall with the screen paint. You can check out my DIY thread on my screen. 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...hare_tid=3086776&share_fid=47413&share_type=t

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## MississippiMan

*He had to ask........*



sddawson said:


> Excuse my ignorance, but how does that work? I’d still be projecting a scope movie with letterbox bars, so how does the painted screen eliminate the bars? This is a moot point for me, since I have an AT screen, but I’m still interested!



Your not asking any question that has not been asked for the last 15 years by literally 1000s of other members. Perhaps not initially directed at the Format Bar issue at first...but that subject always follows somewhat close behind.

The surface of a Silver Fire or Black Flame Screen has specific attenuation properties that can and do further deepen the "almost" black levels that constitute the Format Bars. One must realize that the Format Bars are in every sense "projected" light. Such light has disproportionately less energy striking the surface than does the actual intentionally brighter projected image. So what minuscule amount of light there is does not have enough energy to reflect, so instead, much more of it is absorbed and lost to the surface.

The reduction of light within Format Bar areas is not the only advantage inherent in the Paint.

The Paint itself is somewhat Translucent...more so than other kinds of Paint, and so...when applied to a bright white substrate, the initial surface reflects a large percentage of the light received, while the smaller percentage that is absorbed and collected on the White underlying layer is retained and help elevate (or maintain) the energy level of the initial reflective surface . This is because bright, more intense light passes through and retains more of it's energy, so it helps boost the surface reflection's own output, but at a lower wavelength. darker, weaker light gets even more attenuated, percentage wise...therein making deeper, darker colors even more so, and blacks appear even deeper.

That effect applies to the entire Grey Scale of all shade of color. It is the primary reason the Silver Fire / Black Flame has held the spot of being as adaptable to any Projector / room combination. Attenuation can be adjusted to suit.

The shade of Grey that @*biglen* is using easily attenuates the extremely weak "less than absolute Black" that Format Bars consists of. For that matter, keep in mind that any "less reflective" or non-reflective dark surface would do likewise. The difference in real overal visual performance lies in how well that same shade of Grey reacts to more intense projected light.

Many High Contrast of ALR Mfg Screens have embraced the same or similar idea, that is why with some Mfg Screens you also hear said that Format Bars are a non-issue.

It difficult to answer even a simple question like you posed without going the full mile. One must realize that the surface isn't changing the Contrast / Black levels the projector itself produces, but rather enhances the perception that Contrast / Black Levels at the Screen's surface....as seen when reflected....and improved.

Now some few will and have disputed all that...but a tremendous number more are completely in agreement....because they are the ones who have actually "been there...done that", with either a Mfg Screen or a DIY Painted Screen application. Who to believe...? You decide, but base any such decision on the vetted experience of end users...not those who simply dismiss something out of hand.

*PS...just posted 2 minutes after @biglen. You can be certain that it took me longer to compose my reply that 2 minutes. Some crazy timing, that.*


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## sddawson

biglen said:


> If you get the right screen paint, which I did, the bars will just disappear into the wall. That's why I did the entire wall with the screen paint. You can check out my DIY thread on my screen.
> 
> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...hare_tid=3086776&share_fid=47413&share_type=t
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk





MississippiMan said:


> Your not asking any question that has not been asked for the last 15 years by literally 1000s of other members. Perhaps not initially directed at the Format Bar issue at first...but that subject always follows somewhat close behind.


Thank you, gentlemen, for that fantastic education! As I said, I have an AT screen at present, so it doesn't apply, but I'm sure it will in the future...


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## sddawson

MississippiMan said:


> If both your 16:9 and 2.39:1 Images are of C.I.W. (Constant Image Width)...with a 5050 / 6050 and it's Automatic Lens Memory, you can set just the Vertical Lens Shift to drop the Image and then use a Electric Top Horizontal Mask (Roller Type w/Remote) or Manual Drapery Pull.
> 
> As of now you would not have Vertical "Pillars"....you would only have 2 Horizontal "Bars", and in those cases, shifting the Image down so that you have only the Top to mask is almost always preferable.
> 
> Your 16:9 image fills the entire Wall, eh? So how much is that exactly in comparison to your actual Screen Wall Width? Throw Distance? Room's anti-reflective" treatment?


I have entertained exactly that option - shifting the image and masking the top. Best of both worlds really. I'm not sure how to achieve the masking, though. I only have the width of my screen surround (about 3") to play with at the top, because that butts straight up against a bulkhead. My screen width is 3m - also not sure what sort of roller would cope with that width. Come across anything? And does masking work if it comes down in front of the screen's border (about 3cm thick), with the screen recessed behind it?

My wall width is about 333cm (10'11"), the actual screen about 300cm (9'10"), with a Fidelio covered border that's about 8cm (3") wide. Screen is 135" diagonal. So the screen with border is almost the width of the wall. Throw is 440cm (14'5"). I've attached a couple of quick pics, one deliberately overexposed to show details. Wall curtains are black velour, but have more sheen than I'd like. Carpet is a fairly dark grey. Ceiling is painted in Rosco velour black.

I've been using my lux meter to measure the letterbox bars. Their brightness varies a lot, depending on what's on the screen. Dark scenes they measure .2 lux, bright scenes over 1. Holding the meter diagonally pointing at the carpet (away from the screen) I can measure .2 lux, and about the same with the ceiling (although I don't know if this is a valid measurement to do). I'm guessing that means I'm still getting a fair few reflections, and I'm investigating better curtains, velour ceiling and maybe a black rug for a couple of meters in front of the screen. So hard to know how much difference all this would make though!

Thanks very much for all your comments...

EDIT: The bean bags are not a fixture! There are cinema seats at about the throw distance...


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## rollon1980

I found a setting for HDR that I’m very happy with. 

Could someone try it out and see if it improves their HDR?  

Sending HDR BT2020 from blu Ray player. I’ll only list non-default values...

Color mode: Bright Cinema
Contrast: 60
Power consumption: high
Colour temp: 8
Skin tone: 4
Gamma: custom
Leave all gamma points at 0 except...
Bring the second from the bottom gamma point down to -4!!!
Auto iris: high speed
HDR10 setting: 8

That’s it! It should correct the too high bump in the lower luminance levels to restore near black performance while cutting off around 1000nits.

The above settings should mean you can just leave these settings for all movies and should work.

I may ask Epson to add a couple of more gamma configuration points near black to enable a closer calibration as a firmware update if they can but for now this is as good as it gets. Let me know if you guys have been able to follow the EOTF more closely. 

Cheers!


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## MississippiMan

@sddawson


Excepting the Floor (light colored Carpet) your Room looks more prepared to wage war against reflections than most. Certainly any surfaces that are even more effective would improve things, such as applying Black Velevt to the underside of the Flat right angled Tray directly over the Screen, as well as having at least one Panel of Black Velvet Curtains on each side (...about 4' worth...) 



Lastly, a ultra dark Grey Throw beneath the screen would also help, but not nearly as much as the other suggested fixes. But it would help.


Your room is much further along than many, so you at least make any such suggestions easier to accept.


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## rollon1980

Just to follow up my post a couple of posts up.

I have 25hrs on my lamp so it hasn’t settled fully but some basic calibration looks as below:

Luminance of all colours need to be lowered so that they don’t clip above 300nits. Some are worse than others. I’ve settled around 43 to 46 dependent on the colour. 

Also, I had a brown tinge on my low end which was also messing with gamma. Lowering both red and green to 47 in the greyscale offset has helped immensely. 

The picture is now looking gorgeous. I’ll do a full calibration when the lamp reaches 100hrs and get this tighter but all material is looking great. I’m starting to see what this projector is capable with HDR and just wow. ;-)


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## Isaac Gaillard

Cross posted from the HC4000 thread... What is the recommendation for 3d glasses currently? I've had my Epson for about a year now, came from a Panasonic AR100U which I loved but this projector is a great step up. Thinking I'd like to try some 3d material now. Lots of recommendations for the Value Views but seems they've been unavailable for some time.

I'm viewing on a Silver ticket 135" high contrast grey if that matters. Movie viewing is nearly always at night (3d would be at night for sure) although we have blackout curtains. Our living room is painted black though, and we have LED backlighting around the screen.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk


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## sddawson

MississippiMan said:


> @sddawson
> 
> 
> Excepting the Floor (light colored Carpet) your Room looks more prepared to wage war against reflections than most. Certainly any surfaces that are even more effective would improve things, such as applying Black Velevt to the underside of the Flat right angled Tray directly over the Screen, as well as having at least one Panel of Black Velvet Curtains on each side (...about 4' worth...)
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, a ultra dark Grey Throw beneath the screen would also help, but not nearly as much as the other suggested fixes. But it would help.
> 
> 
> Your room is much further along than many, so you at least make any such suggestions easier to accept.


Thanks very much for the suggestions! Not sure what you mean about the 4’ of black velvet curtains - the curtains that are there already are black velvet, although with more sheen than I’d like. Are you saying you think they have too much sheen?

I think i might concentrate first on getting some masking. I’m sure this will make me much happier. And a black rug underneath the screen is an easy thing to do.


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## MississippiMan

@sddawson ,


Yeah....any real amount of sheen detracts from the effectiveness of light suppression. The Black Triple Velvet I'm used to using would look obsidian-like Black even under those Can Lights. I really thought those were Dark Grey Curtains, so..........


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## sddawson

MississippiMan said:


> @sddawson ,
> 
> 
> Yeah....any real amount of sheen detracts from the effectiveness of light suppression. The Black Triple Velvet I'm used to using would look obsidian-like Black even under those Can Lights. I really thought those were Dark Grey Curtains, so..........


Yeah - I’ve got a few things to think about!


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## biglen

Isaac Gaillard said:


> Cross posted from the HC4000 thread... What is the recommendation for 3d glasses currently? I've had my Epson for about a year now, came from a Panasonic AR100U which I loved but this projector is a great step up. Thinking I'd like to try some 3d material now. Lots of recommendations for the Value Views but seems they've been unavailable for some time.
> 
> I'm viewing on a Silver ticket 135" high contrast grey if that matters. Movie viewing is nearly always at night (3d would be at night for sure) although we have blackout curtains. Our living room is painted black though, and we have LED backlighting around the screen.
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk


These work for me on my 5050:

[Sintron] 2X 3D RF Glasses for Sony Panasonic Samsung 3D TV , Compatible with TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A SSG-5100GB TY-ER3D4MU (2 Pairs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PCWMZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kSsBDb2MKEW4J

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

rollon1980 said:


> I found a setting for HDR that I’m very happy with.
> 
> 
> 
> Could someone try it out and see if it improves their HDR?
> 
> 
> 
> Sending HDR BT2020 from blu Ray player. I’ll only list non-default values...
> 
> 
> 
> Color mode: Bright Cinema
> 
> Contrast: 60
> 
> Power consumption: high
> 
> Colour temp: 8
> 
> Skin tone: 4
> 
> Gamma: custom
> 
> Leave all gamma points at 0 except...
> 
> Bring the second from the bottom gamma point down to -4!!!
> 
> Auto iris: high speed
> 
> HDR10 setting: 8
> 
> 
> 
> That’s it! It should correct the too high bump in the lower luminance levels to restore near black performance while cutting off around 1000nits.
> 
> 
> 
> The above settings should mean you can just leave these settings for all movies and should work.
> 
> 
> 
> I may ask Epson to add a couple of more gamma configuration points near black to enable a closer calibration as a firmware update if they can but for now this is as good as it gets. Let me know if you guys have been able to follow the EOTF more closely.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!


Here are your settings on my 5050. I didn't touch the Gamma, because I don't understand what to do with it.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

rollon1980 said:


> I found a setting for HDR that I’m very happy with.
> 
> Could someone try it out and see if it improves their HDR?
> 
> Sending HDR BT2020 from blu Ray player. I’ll only list non-default values...
> 
> Color mode: Bright Cinema
> Contrast: 60
> Power consumption: high
> Colour temp: 8
> Skin tone: 4
> Gamma: custom
> Leave all gamma points at 0 except...
> Bring the second from the bottom gamma point down to -4!!!
> Auto iris: high speed
> HDR10 setting: 8
> 
> That’s it! It should correct the too high bump in the lower luminance levels to restore near black performance while cutting off around 1000nits.
> 
> The above settings should mean you can just leave these settings for all movies and should work.
> 
> I may ask Epson to add a couple of more gamma configuration points near black to enable a closer calibration as a firmware update if they can but for now this is as good as it gets. Let me know if you guys have been able to follow the EOTF more closely.
> 
> Cheers!


It’s really important to add three things and they are screen size, throw distance and how your room is kitted out.


----------



## tibimakai

The power supply, is not an issue anymore with this model?


----------



## rollon1980

biglen said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I found a setting for HDR that Iâ€™️m very happy with.
> 
> 
> 
> Could someone try it out and see if it improves their HDR? 🙂
> 
> 
> 
> Sending HDR BT2020 from blu Ray player. Iâ€™️ll only list non-default values...
> 
> 
> 
> Color mode: Bright Cinema
> 
> Contrast: 60
> 
> Power consumption: high
> 
> Colour temp: 8
> 
> Skin tone: 4
> 
> Gamma: custom
> 
> Leave all gamma points at 0 except...
> 
> Bring the second from the bottom gamma point down to -4!!!
> 
> Auto iris: high speed
> 
> HDR10 setting: 8
> 
> 
> 
> Thatâ€™️s it! It should correct the too high bump in the lower luminance levels to restore near black performance while cutting off around 1000nits.
> 
> 
> 
> The above settings should mean you can just leave these settings for all movies and should work.
> 
> 
> 
> I may ask Epson to add a couple of more gamma configuration points near black to enable a closer calibration as a firmware update if they can but for now this is as good as it gets. Let me know if you guys have been able to follow the EOTF more closely.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> Here are your settings on my 5050. I didn't touch the Gamma, because I don't understand what to do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks! You need to select “custom” for gamma then go to the second gamma point from the left. Push down arrow until it reads -4 on the screen. Then exit the menu! 

After about 15mins the screen will have a brown push in the low end. You either do a full Color calibration or put the following into Color temp:
Red offset: -48 to -47
Green offset: -48 to -47

This is not a super accurate mode but when you need extra brightness, it is useful. 🙂


----------



## rollon1980

Luminated67 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I found a setting for HDR that Iâ€™️m very happy with.
> 
> Could someone try it out and see if it improves their HDR? 🙂
> 
> Sending HDR BT2020 from blu Ray player. Iâ€™️ll only list non-default values...
> 
> Color mode: Bright Cinema
> Contrast: 60
> Power consumption: high
> Colour temp: 8
> Skin tone: 4
> Gamma: custom
> Leave all gamma points at 0 except...
> Bring the second from the bottom gamma point down to -4!!!
> Auto iris: high speed
> HDR10 setting: 8
> 
> Thatâ€™️s it! It should correct the too high bump in the lower luminance levels to restore near black performance while cutting off around 1000nits.
> 
> The above settings should mean you can just leave these settings for all movies and should work.
> 
> I may ask Epson to add a couple of more gamma configuration points near black to enable a closer calibration as a firmware update if they can but for now this is as good as it gets. Let me know if you guys have been able to follow the EOTF more closely.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> Itâ€™️s really important to add three things and they are screen size, throw distance and how your room is kitted out.
Click to expand...

Current room has light grey walls and white ceiling. 
Throw distance is 3m
Screen size is 95”

The main issue reviewers have been mentioning is the elevated low end gamma with HDR. I don’t think it’s screen dependent. After visually matching to the OLED, the second gamma point needs reducing especially for brighter HDR modes. I found the Digital Cinema mode didn’t need reduction (maybe one click) but Natural and Bright cinema did (by 4 clicks on my setup!!!). Especially if you use the method of increasing contrast to cut off at 1000nits (contrast at 60). You will also need to ensure other colours are not clipped (bringing their luminance down slightly) in the CMS using HDR patterns.

It’s not a super duper accurate mode in bright cinema but it allows for brighter HDR for movies that need it.


----------



## rollon1980

Oh... also, I have about 25hrs on the lamp. That will make a big difference re my brown push in the low end on high lamp. 

I did a full calibration of Natural HDR but again, colour still keeps shifting still so no use in giving more greyscale or CMS data.


----------



## biglen

I'm having a problem, that might not even be a problem. With my 5050, when it's hooked up to my Denon X3500 with my Nvidia Shield, I hit play on an HDR movie, and for the first 5-6 seconds, all I get is sound, and no video.

I'm pretty sure when the video starts playing, I am getting HDR. If I run the Shield directly to the 5050 and hit play, the audio and video both play immediately, and I see the picture shift from SDR to HDR, so I know 100% I'm getting HDR. 

Any idea why it's doing what it's doing when hooked to the receiver, and not when it's directly to the Shield? I even turned the power off the receiver to make sure passthrough was working, which it is, and with the power off to the receiver, and the Shield and 5050 still hooked to the receiver, I still get sound, and then the picture doesn't come on for 5-6 seconds. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I'm having a problem, that might not even be a problem. With my 5050, when it's hooked up to my Denon X3500 with my Nvidia Shield, I hit play on an HDR movie, and for the first 5-6 seconds, all I get is sound, and no video.
> 
> I'm pretty sure when the video starts playing, I am getting HDR. If I run the Shield directly to the 5050 and hit play, the audio and video both play immediately, and I see the picture shift from SDR to HDR, so I know 100% I'm getting HDR.
> 
> Any idea why it's doing what it's doing when hooked to the receiver, and not when it's directly to the Shield? I even turned the power off the receiver to make sure passthrough was working, which it is, and with the power off to the receiver, and the Shield and 5050 still hooked to the receiver, I still get sound, and then the picture doesn't come on for 5-6 seconds.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I came across this article for HDMI Handshake issues when an HTPC is involved with your Home theater setup. 

https://www.missingremote.com/blog/2013/09/an-experience-with-hdmi-handshake-issues

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> I came across this article for HDMI Handshake issues when an HTPC is involved with your Home theater setup.
> 
> https://www.missingremote.com/blog/2013/09/an-experience-with-hdmi-handshake-issues
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I think that's more of a problem that pertains to PC builds. I'm using a Shield, which was made to use as a streaming box. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

luismanrara said:


> I posted this yesterday by mistake in the 5040 thread. I saw this comparison done by TV Specialists and I thought it was interesting that the Epson is being compared to units costing more than twice as much.


I'd keep in mind these guys are trying to sell you things. In another thread on what projector to buy the 4K DLP proponents were using these people to "show" how good those units were vs the Epson. Luminance67 posted a vastly different looking 5050UB screenshot of the same scene they used in their "testing" (they had a 5050 in the shootout). They also measured the "native contrast" of the 5050UB as something ludicrously low (I think 500:1). So buyer beware with "experts" like these. They have an agenda.


----------



## DunMunro

jeahrens said:


> I'd keep in mind these guys are trying to sell you things. In another thread on what projector to buy the 4K DLP proponents were using these people to "show" how good those units were vs the Epson. Luminance67 posted a vastly different looking 5050UB screenshot of the same scene they used in their "testing" (they had a 5050 in the shootout). They also measured the "native contrast" of the 5050UB as something ludicrously low (I think 500:1). So buyer beware with "experts" like these. They have an agenda.


TVSPro sells all the brands and models of projectors demonstrated in their videos.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> TVSPro sells all the brands and models of projectors demonstrated in their videos.


Yes but they only modify the UHZ65. Which makes it in their best interest to sell which model of projector has the best profit margin for them. Which I am certain is the modified UHZ65, titled Theo. It still maybe provide the best image between the Epson 6050, JVC NX7 and the Theo UHZ65 but I would want someone else to do the comparison and declare a winner. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

DunMunro said:


> TVSPro sells all the brands and models of projectors demonstrated in their videos.


And I'm sure their margins and various incentives have nothing to do with the "results" we see. When you have one source that is posting findings that run contrary to independent findings from several reputable unbiased sources, you have an agenda at work or incompetence.


----------



## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes but they only modify the UHZ65. Which makes it in their best interest to sell which model of projector has the best profit margin for them. Which I am certain is the modified UHZ65, titled Theo. It still maybe provide the best image between the Epson 6050, JVC NX7 and the Theo UHZ65 but I would want someone else to do the comparison and declare a winner.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


For every review ever published there will be people lining up on one side or another of the data presented and the conclusions drawn.


----------



## jeahrens

DunMunro said:


> For every review ever published there will be people lining up on one side or another of the data presented and the conclusions drawn.


And an educated consumer lines up with those that can be corroborated by other reputable reviews and backed by repeatable data. We have neither here.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> For every review ever published there will be people lining up on one side or another of the data presented and the conclusions drawn.


No denying that but usually the person running the beauty contest isn't entered in that contest, isn't also one of the judges and then declares herself the winner. She might have been the most beautiful but she really should have had independent judges bestow that title upon her . Doing so herself only allows her for there to be doubt where no doubt would have existed if only she chose to be judged rather be the judge herself. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> And an educated consumer lines up with those that can be corroborated by other reputable reviews and backed by repeatable data. We have neither here.


Couldn't agree more. Not sure how any logical, analytical, even minded person could disagree. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

jeahrens said:


> And I'm sure their margins and various incentives have nothing to do with the "results" we see. When you have one source that is posting findings that run contrary to independent findings from several reputable unbiased sources, you have an agenda at work or incompetence.


One person's "reputable unbiased source" is another's "hatchet job" hack.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> One person's "reputable unbiased source" is another's "hatchet job" hack.


Would you consider Kris Deering to be a reputable unbiased source? If so why don't you put your money where your mouth is and reach out to TVsPro. Ask them to fly Kris Deering to their demo room at their expense. Let him personally calibrate the JVC NX7, Epson 6050 and the Theo UHZ65 . Ask them if it okay for Kris to write up his results for Sound and Vision. Mike Garrett can put you in touch with Kris. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

DunMunro said:


> One person's "reputable unbiased source" is another's "hatchet job" hack.


Yes, but several unbiased sources all reporting the same data make the hack apparent.

Also why I included repeatable instrumented data. Calibrated instrumentation used on several samples of the same product with results that fall within the margin of error are pretty hard to overlook.

This "source" you're defending is the outlier with data differing from the others. Why is that?


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> Yes, but several unbiased sources all reporting the same data make the hack apparent.
> 
> 
> 
> Also why I included repeatable instrumented data. Calibrated instrumentation used on several samples of the same product with results that fall within the margin of error are pretty hard to overlook.
> 
> 
> 
> This "source" you're defending is the outlier with data differing from the others. Why is that?


That is a great question. @DunMunro inquiring minds want to know why you want to believe the Theo UHZ65 throws a better image than the JVC NX7? I own a 6050 but I am not silly enough to think it throws as nice an image as the JVC NX7. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Would you consider Kris Deering to be a reputable unbiased source? If so why don't you put your money where your mouth is and reach out to TVsPro. Ask them to fly Kris Deering to their demo room at their expense. Let him personally calibrate the JVC NX7, Epson 6050 and the Theo UHZ65 . Ask them if it okay for Kris to write up his results for Sound and Vision. Mike Garrett can put you in touch with Kris.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



What exactly do you find so problematic with the TVSPro review? The only area that the Epson came off really poorly was in resolution, and that should have been no surprise. 

Why don't you hop a flight to SLC and tell us your opinion, if you feel that strongly about it? This idea that any disagreement or contrary opinion must be evidence of malfeasance or chicanery is really tiresome.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> What exactly do you find so problematic with the TVSPro review? The only area that the Epson came off really poorly was in resolution, and that should have been no surprise.
> 
> 
> 
> Why don't you hop a flight to SLC and tell us your opinion, if you feel that strongly about it? This idea that any disagreement or contrary opinion must be evidence pf malfeasance or chicanery is really tiresome.


Quite frankly I have neither the expertise nor the skill set to properly calibrate the three projectors we are discussing. That is why I suggested Kris. Since he has the integrity, skill and knowledge. The results of TVsPro fly in the face of most all other measured results for the 6050 and the JVC NX7. I haven't been able to find any professional reviews for the TVsPro Theo UHZ65 outside of the one posted by TVsPro. I just want more data from an unbiased third party. You seem to be of the opinion that TVsPro is the only one out there who is unbiased, yet they seem to have the most to gain from the results they published. I expected your response to see yourself as the victim and that you were being attacked. I am well versed in your contrarian opinions and your usual response when challenged, it is the very reason I sent my response. I knew you would not reach out to TVsPro nor would they accept Kris Deering doing the calibrations and reported his analysis. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> That is a great question. @DunMunro inquiring minds want to know why you want to believe the Theo UHZ65 throws a better image than the JVC NX7? I own a 6050 but I am not silly enough to think it throws as nice an image as the JVC NX7.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Heck I'd like to know why he believes it's better than the Epson. In the other thread I mentioned earlier asking about selecting the Epson or a 4K DLP XPR model. I sited that I along with about 10 local AVS members got to demo an Optoma UHD. These are owners of all different brands (Epson, Sony, JVC, etc). Our overwhelming conclusion was that the 4K DLP was sharp and bright, but the subpar contrast killed interest. One of our members even vainly tried adjusting the brightness hoping it was set wrong, but unfortunately it did not improve the contrast (only clipped black more). Brilliant color didn't help either. None of us who've seen it would have picked this over the 5040UB. 

The rebuttal was that laser dimming system was a vast improvement on the UHZ despite still being measurably much worse than the Epson in dynamic contrast. As well as much more expensive solid light source 4K XPR still trailing the Epson according to other reviews.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> What exactly do you find so problematic with the TVSPro review? The only area that the Epson came off really poorly was in resolution, and that should have been no surprise.
> 
> 
> 
> Why don't you hop a flight to SLC and tell us your opinion, if you feel that strongly about it? This idea that any disagreement or contrary opinion must be evidence pf malfeasance or chicanery is really tiresome.[/quote @DunMunro I haven't seen your opinion anywhere over in the Theo UHZ65 owners thread so maybe you would like to continue the discussion in the more appropriate thread. As I recall you don't have any real world experience with the JVC NX7, the Epson 5050/6050 or the THEO UHZ65 so maybe if you reach out to an actual owner of a Theo they can provide you with some more cogent talking points.
> 
> 
> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...hare_tid=3086184&share_fid=47413&share_type=t
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> Heck I'd like to know why he believes it's better than the Epson. In the other thread I mentioned earlier asking about selecting the Epson or a 4K DLP XPR model. I sited that I along with about 10 local AVS members got to demo an Optoma UHD. These are owners of all different brands (Epson, Sony, JVC, etc). Our overwhelming conclusion was that the 4K DLP was sharp and bright, but the subpar contrast killed interest. One of our members even vainly tried adjusting the brightness hoping it was set wrong, but unfortunately it did not improve the contrast (only clipped black more). Brilliant color didn't help either. None of us who've seen it would have picked this over the 5040UB.
> 
> 
> 
> The rebuttal was that laser dimming system was a vast improvement on the UHZ despite still being measurably much worse than the Epson in dynamic contrast. As well as much more expensive solid light source 4K XPR still trailing the Epson according to other reviews.


 @jeahrens you made my day with this post. Thank you.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Quite frankly I have neither the expertise nor the skill set to properly calibrate the three projectors we are discussing. That is why I suggested Kris. Since he has the integrity, skill and knowledge. The results of TVsPro fly in the face of most all other measured results for the 6050 and the JVC NX7. I haven't been able to find any professional reviews for the TVsPro Theo UHZ65 outside of the one posted by TVsPro. I just want more data from an unbiased third party. You seem to be of the opinion that TVsPro is the only one out there who is unbiased, yet they seem to have the most to gain from the results they published. I expected your response to see yourself as the victim and that you were being attacked. I am well versed in your contrarian opinions and your usual response when challenged, it is the very reason I sent my response. I knew you would not reach out to TVsPro nor would they accept Kris Deering doing the calibrations and reported his analysis.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Why is your desire for more data my responsibility?


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> Why is your desire for more data my responsibility?[/quote @DunMunro always giving your opinion on every subject without owning any of the gear has become tiresome. Being contrarian just for the sake of being contrarian is a fool's quest unless your goal is just to draw attention. Which I know is always your end game. And I know this but yet I continue to fall into your trap every time. Well played yet again.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

DunMunro said:


> Why is your desire for more data my responsibility?


Well when you are the one person stating water isn't wet, the rest of us feel that perhaps the onus is on you to explain that position.


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> @DunMunro always giving your opinion on every subject without owning any of the gear has become tiresome. Being contrarian just for the sake of being contrarian is a fool's quest unless your goal is just to draw attention. Which I know is always your end game. And I know this but yet I continue to fall into your trap every time. Well played yet again.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Battling misinformation is not a wasted effort despite feeling that way sometimes. This is a great thread on following a great product. All you can do is try to keep it helpful and accurate.


----------



## DunMunro

jeahrens said:


> Well when you are the one person stating water isn't wet, the rest of us feel that perhaps the onus is on you to explain that position.


I stated that TVSPro sells all the projectors they review.


----------



## rollon1980

The more I have this projector, the more I love it. 

I’ve had JVC projectors for the last 10 years and actually had the below models (and still have one of them):
HD250
HD750
HD950
X3
X9
X5000
X7000
X9500

My observation is as follows:
Yes yes yes, a JVC cannot be beaten for that CRT organic look and amazing on/off contrast in a fully blacked out room. In fact the x9500 has one of the lowest black levels I’ve seen even on its brightest mode. So I still kept a JVC to watch dark sci fi when I miss it. 

HOWEVER!!
The 9400 (ub6050) sample I have here is 
1. Sharper than any of my JVCs I’ve had - no I have not had a native 4K JVC
2. The ANSI contrast is immediately noticeable. It’s like going from a plasma or CRT to a modern flat panel obvious!! This is much better for watching with the lights on
3. The ANSI contrast actually helps with two things in big ways: 3D performance (yes, much better to my eye than the top JVCs) and HDR performance because that requires more intra-scene contrast for pop. I have managed to get HDR to look much better than the JVC was capable of even with custom curves, HDR optimiser, the like!
4. The brightness. Oh my! Rather impressive.
5. I don’t have to remortgage the house for a new lamp. AU$480 versus AU$130 for a lamp here in Oz. 

Anyway, still keeping a JVC cos I do love them and sure, the Epson is a hair worse with blacks in dark scenes but double the ANSI and it looks like a big flat panel even with lights on. It’s a beast!


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> I stated that TVSPro sells all the projectors they review.


What does the fact that they sell all the projectors have to do with the price of beans or any of this discussion whatsoever. You seem to have quite a bit of free time on your hands why don't you order all three projectors have Kris Deering come out and calibrate all three of them and you and Kris can report back to us about your findings, since you are so passionate on this topic but haven't been able to experience any of these projectors in person. I am sure TVsPro has a generous return policy for anyone wanting to compare all three since they so "graciously" offered to pay a portion of airfare as long as you buy a projector after viewing the projectors they calibrated themselves and have declared their in house modified UHZ65 the winner. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

Here's the first part of the TVSPro blog article:

https://www.tvspecialists.com/jvc-dla-nx7-vs-epson-pro-cinema-6050ub-vs-tvs-pro-theo-z65-part-i/


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> Here's the first part of the TVSPro blog article:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.tvspecialists.com/jvc-dla-nx7-vs-epson-pro-cinema-6050ub-vs-tvs-pro-theo-z65-part-i/


Here is a link to a review of the Epson 6050. You know what this thread is for, owners of the 5050 and 6050. 






Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes but they only modify the UHZ65. Which makes it in their best interest to sell which model of projector has the best profit margin for them. Which I am certain is the modified UHZ65, titled Theo. It still maybe provide the best image between the Epson 6050, JVC NX7 and the Theo UHZ65 but I would want someone else to do the comparison and declare a winner.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


No axe to grind on this one, just amazing that the Epson was even there considering the price difference but also surprised how well it’s did. I believe it was the brightest in lumens as the mods to the UHZ65 drop it down so might explain the camera’s inability to show the greyscale etc but overall it did very well.

As to be expected on ultra close up images it’s inability to render true 4K showed it up against the others but from general viewing distance it looks as good.

I didn’t get a chance to watch the entire video but did they do a space scene comparison for all three, that would really show if the Optoma’s mods have cured the kind of contrast most complain about with DLPs.


----------



## gunbunnysoulja

Hey everyone! I'm primarily currently considering the BenQ 3550 or the Epson 5040. In the event I up my budget for my 150" 1.1 gain 16:9 screen in a completely light controlled room, is the 5050 worlds better than the 5040 or just a modest improvement at 1/3rd more $$?


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## luismanrara

I keep going back to the fact that a $2,700 projector is being compared to pricier alternatives while maintaining its dignity intact, that's quite a feat to achieve. Why this reality ticks off some people escapes me.
I believe that the JVC in a really dark room will show its strengths, it will have better blacks, it will look sharper up close, it will probably have better contrast, after all, it is an $8,000 projector, if you have the money, go for it.


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## skylarlove1999

gunbunnysoulja said:


> Hey everyone! I'm primarily currently considering the BenQ 3550 or the Epson 5040. In the event I up my budget for my 150" 1.1 gain 16:9 screen in a completely light controlled room, is the 5050 worlds better than the 5040 or just a modest improvement at 1/3rd more $$?


I tested the 5050 for about a month after owning a 5040 for 18 months. The contrast clarity and resolution are all improved from the 5040. The HDR performance was the most significant improvement. Much brighter image overall with improved shadow detail and specular highlights. The HDR slider allows you to easily adjust the HDR performance of different content based upon your own personal preferences, much better and easier than the 5040. I have owned a 6050 since May. I am blown away by the image for SDR upscaled to 4K especially 1080P Football broadcasts from NBC and CBS. HDR is amazing. FYI FUBOTV is a streaming service like Sling. On Thursday September 26th FUBOTV will be broadcasting the Philadelphia Eagles vs Green Bay Packers in native 4K on the Fox 4K channel. First NFL game broadcast in 4K of which I have been aware. They have a 7 day free trial. So excited . Sorry for the tangent. But yes IMHO the 5050 is a significant upgrade over the 5040.

https://www.cordcutters.com/fubo-tv-streaming-nfl-4k-season


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

I just noticed this darkish line down the picture during bright scenes. I'm wondering if it's where the drywall was joined together, because I have a painted on screen, or hopefully it's not an issue with the projector.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I just noticed this darkish line down the picture during bright scenes. I'm wondering if it's where the drywall was joined together, because I have a painted on screen, or hopefully it's not an issue with the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Use the lens shift to move the image left or right. If the darkish line moves left or right it is the projector. If it doesn't move than obviously it is the wall. Hope you like your new AVR.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Use the lens shift to move the image left or right. If the darkish line moves left or right it is the projector. If it doesn't move than obviously it is the wall. Hope you like your new AVR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Good call on using the lens shift. The line stays in the same spot when I shift the image right and left. It must be the seam where the drywall was butted together. The contractor must not have got it perfect. Not a big deal. It's only noticable on really white scenes. I'm loving the new AVR. I just wish I could figure out the 5 second blank picture when I start an HDR video. It doesn't happen when the Shield is hooked directly to the projector. I have a new HDMI cable coming today, for the Shield to the AVR. Hopefully, that fixes it. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Good call on using the lens shift. The line stays in the same spot when I shift the image right and left. It must be the seam where the drywall was butted together. The contractor must not have got it perfect. Not a big deal. It's only noticable on really white scenes. I'm loving the new AVR. I just wish I could figure out the 5 second blank picture when I start an HDR video. It doesn't happen when the Shield is hooked directly to the projector. I have a new HDMI cable coming today, for the Shield to the AVR. Hopefully, that fixes it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I always have the 5 second delay when HDR content starts up between hearing the content and seeing the content through the AVR. I think of it as a little bus stop for the video signal before going to the projector LOL. 

I do have an old Elite 16 x 9 120 inch screen you could have if it winds up really bothering you. I am sure it won't be as good as your painted screen image quality wise but I know once I see something it is hard for me to not see it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> I always have the 5 second delay when HDR content starts up between hearing the content and seeing the content through the AVR. I think of it as a little bus stop for the video signal before going to the projector LOL.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I just don't understand why it doesn't happen when connected directly to the projector. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## IslaTurbine

Which HDMI cables are people having success with for lengths of 25'? I'm finishing out my theater room and plan to run some HDMI through a wall and a ceiling prior to drywall. I want to make sure I use something that the 5050/6050 seem to get along with. (I haven't bought the projector yet...waiting till Black Friday)...






*EDIT* typed 20 but meant 25'


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## skylarlove1999

IslaTurbine said:


> Which HDMI cables are people having success with for lengths of 20'? I'm finishing out my theater room and plan to run some HDMI through a wall and a ceiling prior to drywall. I want to make sure I use something that the 5050/6050 seem to get along with. (I haven't bought the projector yet...waiting till Black Friday)...


https://www.amazon.com/50ft-FURUI-Braided-HDCP2-2-Subsampling/dp/B07CGFTY77 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## jeahrens

biglen said:


> I just don't understand why it doesn't happen when connected directly to the projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Every step in the chain requires handshaking and establishing a copy protected stream. The AVR isn't a passthrough, it's an active participant. So the whole chain is only going to be as fast as the slowest component and more things in the chain means more time overall.


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## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> Every step in the chain requires handshaking and establishing a copy protected stream. The AVR isn't a passthrough, it's an active participant. So the whole chain is only going to be as fast as the slowest component and more things in the chain means more time overall.


Very well said. Much better than my bus stop analogy with each component adding another stop to the bus route.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## MississippiMan

biglen said:


> Good call on using the lens shift. The line stays in the same spot when I shift the image right and left. It must be the seam where the drywall was butted together. The contractor must not have got it perfect. Not a big deal.



Booooooo ! 


Shouldn't outta never happen !


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## ShadowBoy

biglen said:


> Good call on using the lens shift. The line stays in the same spot when I shift the image right and left. It must be the seam where the drywall was butted together. The contractor must not have got it perfect. Not a big deal. It's only noticable on really white scenes. I'm loving the new AVR. I just wish I could figure out the 5 second blank picture when I start an HDR video. It doesn't happen when the Shield is hooked directly to the projector. I have a new HDMI cable coming today, for the Shield to the AVR. Hopefully, that fixes it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I followed all the Black Widow and other painting and alternative screen threads back in 2005 when I bought my first projector. One of the reasons I opted against painting and all of the other alternatives to buying a manufactured screen was the problem of getting a large enough surface that didn't require seamlessly connecting two or more things together. It doesn't take a very big imperfection to show up on a light scene and I had very little faith in my or others abilities to get it perfect. The $850 for my 150' screen was well worth it.


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## biglen

jeahrens said:


> Every step in the chain requires handshaking and establishing a copy protected stream. The AVR isn't a passthrough, it's an active participant. So the whole chain is only going to be as fast as the slowest component and more things in the chain means more time overall.


What does Denon mean then when they say their receivers have the feature "PassThrough"? Also, I never had the issue with my Sony XBR-65X850C when it was in the same setup. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> What does Denon mean then when they say their receivers have the feature "PassThrough"? Also, I never had the issue with my Sony XBR-65X850C when it was in the same setup.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


You can try shutting off the HDMI control/CEC on the Epson and the receiver. See if that improves the lag time you are experiencing. But many folks keep the HDMI control set to on so components connected via HDMI will come on at the same time and go off together.

https://denon.custhelp.com/app/answ...-control---standby-pass-through---signal-loss

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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> You can try shutting off the HDMI control/CEC on the Epson and the receiver. See if that improves the lag time you are experiencing. But many folks keep the HDMI control set to on so components connected via HDMI will come on at the same time and go off together.
> 
> https://denon.custhelp.com/app/answ...-control---standby-pass-through---signal-loss
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'll give it a try. I actually timed how long the video takes to come on, and it was 10 seconds, not 5 like I initially thought. That sounds really long to me, to be normal. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

biglen said:


> I'll give it a try. I actually timed how long the video takes to come on, and it was 10 seconds, not 5 like I initially thought. That sounds really long to me, to be normal.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


No luck with turning off CEC and HDMI Control. This is going to drive me bananas......

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> No luck with turning off CEC and HDMI Control. This is going to drive me bananas......
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Honestly it is just the way long HDMI runs to the projector work. Just think how amazing the picture will be once it comes on. You could always press pause right after play and wait for the picture. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## imureh

skylarlove1999 said:


> I tested the 5050 for about a month after owning a 5040 for 18 months. The contrast clarity and resolution are all improved from the 5040. The HDR performance was the most significant improvement. Much brighter image overall with improved shadow detail and specular highlights. The HDR slider allows you to easily adjust the HDR performance of different content based upon your own personal preferences, much better and easier than the 5040. I have owned a 6050 since May. I am blown away by the image for SDR upscaled to 4K especially 1080P Football broadcasts from NBC and CBS. HDR is amazing. FYI FUBOTV is a streaming service like Sling. On Thursday September 26th FUBOTV will be broadcasting the Philadelphia Eagles vs Green Bay Packers in native 4K on the Fox 4K channel. First NFL game broadcast in 4K of which I have been aware. They have a 7 day free trial. So excited . Sorry for the tangent. But yes IMHO the 5050 is a significant upgrade over the 5040.
> 
> https://www.cordcutters.com/fubo-tv-streaming-nfl-4k-season
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That is quite impressive having been able to test all three models. Would you say that the 6050 is also a noticeable upgrade to the 5050 warranting the additional $1K? 

I know it comes with certain perks. I am currently running an epson 6500UB and will be looking to upgrade next year and had locked in on the JVC NX7 but after seeing the reviews for the 5050/6050 and at the price point they are offered at I am considering again. I sit about 8 feet from screen in a fully light controlled media room. I know people tell me its not a true 4K projector and don't go for e-shifters but I read that competes with some of the best out there....


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## skylarlove1999

imureh said:


> That is quite impressive having been able to test all three models. Would you say that the 6050 is also a noticeable upgrade to the 5050 warranting the additional $1K?
> 
> 
> 
> I know it comes with certain perks. I am currently running an epson 6500UB and will be looking to upgrade next year and had locked in on the JVC NX7 but after seeing the reviews for the 5050/6050 and at the price point they are offered at I am considering again. I sit about 8 feet from screen in a fully light controlled media room. I know people tell me its not a true 4K projector and don't go for e-shifters but I read that competes with some of the best out there....


You get another year of warranty, $300 mount and $180 replacement lamp. Epson takes the best optical lens for the Pro Cinema line. 5050 is Home Cinema line. I think the 6050 has slightly better contrast, black levels, shadow details and specular highlights. If you don't need the mount and won't keep the projector long enough to use the free lamp the 5050 is the better bang for your buck. If you need the mount and know where to shop the 6050 becomes a really competitive option. If you decide you want the 6050 PM me and I can give you a great dealer with great prices on the 6050. I have seen the JVC NX7 in person and it throws an amazing image. Darker and sharper than my 6050 but even with a 15% discount off MSRP I could not justify the price for the JVC. I used the extra savings to upgrade to a Denon 6500 and added two more Dolby Atmos speakers. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## imureh

skylarlove1999 said:


> You get another year of warranty, $300 mount and $180 replacement lamp. Epson takes the best optical lens for the Pro Cinema line. 5050 is Home Cinema line. I think the 6050 has slightly better contrast, black levels, shadow details and specular highlights. If you don't need the mount and won't keep the projector long enough to use the free lamp the 5050 is the better bang for your buck. If you need the mount and know where to shop the 6050 becomes a really competitive option. If you decide you want the 6050 PM me and I can give you a great dealer with great prices on the 6050. I have seen the JVC NX7 in person and it throws an amazing image. Darker and sharper than my 6050 but even with a 15% discount off MSRP I could not justify the price for the JVC. I used the extra savings to upgrade to a Denon 6500 and added two more Dolby Atmos speakers.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah I hear ya. May be the prices for the JVC come down in a year or so. I do plan to upgrade my screen as well so need funds set aside for that. I am currently using a visual apex fixed frame screen bought 8 years ago... I will keep your offer about the 6050 in mind. I will keep the projector few years for sure depending how quickly tech changes. I kept the 6500UB for 8 years...


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## skylarlove1999

imureh said:


> Yeah I hear ya. May be the prices for the JVC come down in a year or so. I do plan to upgrade my screen as well so need funds set aside for that. I am currently using a visual apex fixed frame screen bought 8 years ago... I will keep your offer about the 6050 in mind. I will keep the projector few years for sure depending how quickly tech changes. I kept the 6500UB for 8 years...


Seymour makes great screens and you can buy just the screen material and DIY the frame if you are handy. Elunevision Reference 4K is a great screen for the money as well. 

https://hometheaterreview.com/elunevision-reference-studio-4k-fixed-frame-screen-reviewed/

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## imureh

skylarlove1999 said:


> Seymour makes great screens and you can buy just the screen material and DIY the frame if you are handy. Elunevision Reference 4K is a great screen for the money as well.
> 
> https://hometheaterreview.com/elunevision-reference-studio-4k-fixed-frame-screen-reviewed/
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks. I am not handy at all...I was looking at stewart screens as well. Once I get closer I will dig a bit deeper what type of screen to get, gain etc etc


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## skylarlove1999

imureh said:


> Thanks. I am not handy at all...I was looking at stewart screens as well. Once I get closer I will dig a bit deeper what type of screen to get, gain etc etc


Stewart Studiotek 100 or the 130 are amazing reference grade screens. Extremely expensive. I bought a Seymour Glacier white screen 16 x 9 120 inches with manual masking for half the price of the Studiotek 100. I have been quite pleased. 

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## imureh

skylarlove1999 said:


> Stewart Studiotek 100 or the 130 are amazing reference grade screens. Extremely expensive. I bought a Seymour Glacier white screen 16 x 9 120 inches with manual masking for half the price of the Studiotek 100. I have been quite pleased.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Appreciate all the info. Just started down this road so very helpful. May bug folks on this thread later on. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

imureh said:


> Appreciate all the info. Just started down this road so very helpful. May bug folks on this thread later on.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


People love to share their thoughts and ideas so don't be afraid to post or DM people. It is a great community.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Chris Corcoran

Hey guys

As someone who is not going to get a professional calibration done as of right now what settings are your favorite? For sdr and HDR?

The ones I have are projector reviews, the ones from the user that starts with the letter A ( his name escapes me but he has hdr accurate and hdr bright ) and lastly one posted by a user around page 60 or so.


Lastly, I find this projector very soft looking. I'm coming from an HW40ES using a darbee darblet with moderate settings, not over enhancing the image and I find that setup to be much sharper. Regardless If what I do I cant get razor sharpness, everything had a slight fuzz when I go up close dialing in the lense focus. Mind you the screen is 138"


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## skylarlove1999

Chris Corcoran said:


> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> As someone who is not going to get a professional calibration done as of right now what settings are your favorite? For sdr and HDR?
> 
> 
> 
> The ones I have are projector reviews, the ones from the user that starts with the letter A ( his name escapes me but he has hdr accurate and hdr bright ) and lastly one posted by a user around page 60 or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, I find this projector very soft looking. I'm coming from an HW40ES using a darbee darblet with moderate settings, not over enhancing the image and I find that setup to be much sharper. Regardless If what I do I cant get razor sharpness, everything had a slight fuzz when I go up close dialing in the lense focus. Mind you the screen is 138"


What source devices are you using: UHD player, Roku, Nvidia shield, cable box, etc. Have you disabled all video conversion in your AVR? The Sony you mentioned from 2014 was a very sharp 1080P projector in its own right but I am certain your 5050 should have as sharp or sharper a picture when fed 4K content. I don't take the best pictures and they are from my phone. That being said would you consider these pictures soft as you put it? This is a 1080P signal e-shifted to faux 4k by my 6050. Pictures were taken while images were moving. YoutubeTV through my Roku Ultra player. 










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## Chris Corcoran

I'm using an onkyo rz830 which I believe does not do any conversion. I am using xbox one x and ps4 pro as main sources. Seating distance is fine in terms of sharpness, but when I go up close, like 2 feet from screen to adjust sharpness I see some hazing. Maybe its normal and I just prefer the look as sharp as possible.

Even when using image enhancement I find 4 or 5 works and looks the best. I find 2 or 3 to be quite blurry


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## biglen

Chris Corcoran said:


> I'm using an onkyo rz830 which I believe does not do any conversion. I am using xbox one x and ps4 pro as main sources. Seating distance is fine in terms of sharpness, but when I go up close, like 2 feet from screen to adjust sharpness I see some hazing. Maybe its normal and I just prefer the look as sharp as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Even when using image enhancement I find 4 or 5 works and looks the best. I find 2 or 3 to be quite blurry


Hmmmm, I never get to adjust Image Enhancement. It's always grayed out, because it's automatically engaged I believe. Maybe there's a setting you're missing, that's causing it to be blurry? Do you have EDID set to Expanded? Are you sure your HDMI cables are newer High Speed HDMI cables?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Chris Corcoran said:


> I'm using an onkyo rz830 which I believe does not do any conversion. I am using xbox one x and ps4 pro as main sources. Seating distance is fine in terms of sharpness, but when I go up close, like 2 feet from screen to adjust sharpness I see some hazing. Maybe its normal and I just prefer the look as sharp as possible.
> 
> 
> 
> Even when using image enhancement I find 4 or 5 works and looks the best. I find 2 or 3 to be quite blurry


You will not see razor sharpness 2 ft from the screen with a pixel shifter. By the fact that you prefer Image enhancement 5, you enjoy the image being ultra detailed and ultra sharp. Some people think image enhancements create an artificial looking image . Those people prefer a more natural looking image. Neither one is better or worse, just different.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Hmmmm, I never get to adjust Image Enhancement. It's always grayed out, because it's automatically engaged I believe. Maybe there's a setting you're missing, that's causing it to be blurry? Do you have EDID set to Expanded? Are you sure your HDMI cables are newer High Speed HDMI cables?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk[/quote @biglen I think you are referring to the 4K enhancement that would be grayed out if the projector is being fed a 4K Signal. The OP was referring to the image Preset modes that are also found under menu Image Enhancement. They should not be grayed out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> biglen said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmm, I never get to adjust Image Enhancement. It's always grayed out, because it's automatically engaged I believe. Maybe there's a setting you're missing, that's causing it to be blurry? Do you have EDID set to Expanded? Are you sure your HDMI cables are newer High Speed HDMI cables?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk[/quote @biglen I think you are referring to the 4K enhancement that would be grayed out if the projector is being fed a 4K Signal. The OP was referring to the image Preset modes that are also found under menu Image Enhancement. They should not be grayed out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, my bad.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


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## biglen

@Chris Corcoran here are some shots of my 5050. I've never walked up close to the screen, but from 11', the picture is razor sharp.









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## MississippiMan

@biglen


Now those are some nice screenies!


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## biglen

MississippiMan said:


> @biglen
> 
> 
> Now those are some nice screenies!


Credit goes to you for giving me those tips !

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Hmmmm, I never get to adjust Image Enhancement. It's always grayed out, because it's automatically engaged I believe. Maybe there's a setting you're missing, that's causing it to be blurry? Do you have EDID set to Expanded? Are you sure your HDMI cables are newer High Speed HDMI cables?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Image Enhancement will only be greyed our when feed a 4K signal upstream be that proper 4K or an upscale signal from your Blu-ray player etc, even with it greyed our you can still adjust the presets 1-5. 

People think the first two presets are blurry but in reality this isn’t the case, what they need to do is turn on the 4K upscaling but leave the presets to OFF first and watch for a few minutes, then turn preset one one and watch again and continue on to number two, with each you’ll see a slight improvement in crispness, the difference is that with the higher presets the difference is more noticeable but with each it adds a bit more.


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## fredworld

IslaTurbine said:


> Which HDMI cables are people having success with for lengths of 25'? I'm finishing out my theater room and plan to run some HDMI through a wall and a ceiling prior to drywall. I want to make sure I use something that the 5050/6050 seem to get along with. (I haven't bought the projector yet...waiting till Black Friday)...
> 
> *EDIT* typed 20 but meant 25'



I've had excellent results with cables from MyCableMartdotcom. For my Epson 5050UB there's a 33' run of ceiling conduit

from my Marantz AV7704 to the projector. I used a 49' Titan cable but changed to a 35' Redmere Eliteto get rid of the coiled slack of the Titan. Initially, I used the Titan because of the unavailability of a suitable shorter length. The after-sale customer service was superb when I exchanged the Titan for the Elite. I hope this helps. Sorry, I can't provide links because this is my first post so the rules don't allow it until I have 5 or more posts.


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## jeahrens

biglen said:


> What does Denon mean then when they say their receivers have the feature "PassThrough"? Also, I never had the issue with my Sony XBR-65X850C when it was in the same setup.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Passthrough means they don't do any data manipulation. Each link of the HDMI data chain requires handshaking.

On another note, gorgeous screen caps! Aren't you glad you didn't go the TV route


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## biglen

jeahrens said:


> Passthrough means they don't do any data manipulation. Each link of the HDMI data chain requires handshaking.
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, gorgeous screen caps! Aren't you glad you didn't go the TV route


So what did you mean when you said the AVR doesn't have PassThrough? SO glad I didn't get a TV !

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## jeahrens

biglen said:


> So what did you mean when you said the AVR doesn't have PassThrough? SO glad I didn't get a TV !
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


So AVRs can manipulate the video stream. They can do upsampling and other changes. PassThrough means "I will pass this data through exactly as is, no manipulation". It doesn't mean that there still isn't an HDMI handshake going on to establish copy protection and to determine the capabilities of the devices in the chain.


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## biglen

jeahrens said:


> So AVRs can manipulate the video stream. They can do upsampling and other changes. PassThrough means "I will pass this data through exactly as is, no manipulation". It doesn't mean that there still isn't an HDMI handshake going on to establish copy protection and to determine the capabilities of the devices in the chain.


Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

And another TW9400/5050 review:

https://homecinema-tendances.eu/test-epson-eh-tw9400/ (use google translate for the language of choice).


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## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> And another TW9400/5050 review:
> 
> 
> 
> https://homecinema-tendances.eu/test-epson-eh-tw9400/ (use google translate for the language of choice).


The TW9400 specifications and performance mean it is not the 5050 it is actually the 6050. Please stop posting just to collect posts. Please be knowledgeable and maybe at least own some of the gear you are always trying to comment on, answer questions about or post information. Remember somebody might think you are a reputable source and base a buying decision on one of your posts. Please be more responsible. I have tried being respectful to you but you don't seem to get the point. If you aren't sure about something please stop putting out your opinions as fact. Please try reading a link before you post it. 

https://www.epson.eu/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9400/Tech-Specs

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## Mike Lang

Never tell another member how to post. Keep your own posts posts focused on the product being discussed, not on other members.

Thanks


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## nogud

I'm at the early stages of planning a dedicated cinema room, that I'll be able to keep completely dark.
The room can accommodate a screen as big as 200''. Some years ago I was looking at projectors and none in this price range seemed to be able to light something in this size, brightness always seemed to come short.

But using the calculator in projector central for the TW9400 comes up with some great results (see attachment).

Are these realistic, is this projector really that bright?
This would be great news.


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## Ladeback

nogud said:


> I'm at the early stages of planning a dedicated cinema room, that I'll be able to keep completely dark.
> The room can accommodate a screen as big as 200''. Some years ago I was looking at projectors and none in this price range seemed to be able to light something in this size, brightness always seemed to come short.
> 
> But using the calculator in projector central for the TW9400 comes up with some great results (see attachment).
> 
> Are these realistic, is this projector really that bright?
> This would be great news.


I take it you have a long, wide and tall room? How close are you going to sit back from the screen? I could probably do about 16', but would be better at 18' back. It would be pretty cool.


----------



## DavidinGA

nogud said:


> I'm at the early stages of planning a dedicated cinema room, that I'll be able to keep completely dark.
> The room can accommodate a screen as big as 200''. Some years ago I was looking at projectors and none in this price range seemed to be able to light something in this size, brightness always seemed to come short.
> 
> But using the calculator in projector central for the TW9400 comes up with some great results (see attachment).
> 
> Are these realistic, is this projector really that bright?
> This would be great news.



I wouldn't advise going that big *if* HDR is important to you.


----------



## jeahrens

nogud said:


> I'm at the early stages of planning a dedicated cinema room, that I'll be able to keep completely dark.
> The room can accommodate a screen as big as 200''. Some years ago I was looking at projectors and none in this price range seemed to be able to light something in this size, brightness always seemed to come short.
> 
> But using the calculator in projector central for the TW9400 comes up with some great results (see attachment).
> 
> Are these realistic, is this projector really that bright?
> This would be great news.


The projector in high bulb in its brightest modes can pull off some high light output. However high lamp is reported to be pretty noisy and these bright modes are not color accurate. Medium lamp with a calibrated output you're looking at around 1800-2000 lumens. Still a lot, but for good HDR output for most of the bulb life I would think a 150" screen would be about as big as I'd suggest.


----------



## skylarlove1999

nogud said:


> I'm at the early stages of planning a dedicated cinema room, that I'll be able to keep completely dark.
> 
> The room can accommodate a screen as big as 200''. Some years ago I was looking at projectors and none in this price range seemed to be able to light something in this size, brightness always seemed to come short.
> 
> 
> 
> But using the calculator in projector central for the TW9400 comes up with some great results (see attachment).
> 
> 
> 
> Are these realistic, is this projector really that bright?
> 
> This would be great news.


The calculator isn't accounting for picture mode and lamp preference. Digital cinema mode is the DCI-P3 accurate color mode for BT.2020 signals
The filter present in Digital Cinema mode significantly reduces the lumens. Honestly I would stay at 135 and under if you want to be really wowed with the HDR performance unless of course you are using an anamorphic lens to add brightness. You can use Natural mode and calibrate to probably 75-80% of the DCI-P3 color space but you still aren't going to achieve 67 nits on a 200 inch screen post calibration. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## sddawson

Wondering if anyone out there can give me the black level readings they get from a 6050/9400, using a light meter. Best way, I think, would to be in sdr mode and put up a brightness calibration pattern, then measure the darkest part of the pattern. I’d be particularly interested in environments that are completely light controlled...


----------



## mhutchins

Although such a reading is interesting, it is the one reading that is most dependent on the room. "Light Controlled" usually means, at a minimum, no light enters the room through windows or doors. The term does not address how reflected light is handled in the room. There will be a huge difference in a light controlled room with light colored walls and ceilings vs. the same room with darker surfaces, vs. the same room covered in Triple Black Velvet. Black on a front projection screen is dominated more by the reflected light in the room than by the projector itself, especially when you get into the category of high-end projectors where the 6050/9400 competes. This category truly benefits from fabric room treatments to control reflections and thus improve contrast.


Mike


----------



## JewDaddy

Has there still only been the one firmware update on the 5050? I know it's silly and unrealistic but I keep holding out hope that Epson will release an update that allows FI with a 4k signal.....

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

mhutchins said:


> Although such a reading is interesting, it is the one reading that is most dependent on the room. "Light Controlled" usually means, at a minimum, no light enters the room through windows or doors. The term does not address how reflected light is handled in the room. There will be a huge difference in a light controlled room with light colored walls and ceilings vs. the same room with darker surfaces, vs. the same room covered in Triple Black Velvet. Black on a front projection screen is dominated more by the reflected light in the room than by the projector itself, especially when you get into the category of high-end projectors where the 6050/9400 competes. This category truly benefits from fabric room treatments to control reflections and thus improve contrast.
> 
> 
> Mike


Yes, I agree with you. Although when projecting what is supposed to be black, I wouldn’t think room reflections come into it that much (assuming no light entering the room). I would think that the low level of light being projected would only reflect off highly reflective surfaces. Having said that, I’m still interested in what readings people get, with maybe a description of the room treatment, if only to see what people put up with!

My room has Rosco-painted ceiling, black velvet curtains (that have more sheen than I’d like) and a dark grey carpet. I’m wondering whether to improve this treatment even further, and trying to figure out whether this treatment will, in fact, improve my black levels. Actual movie scenes look great, but format bars are certainly a definite grey (I know they will never be black, especially with the native contrast of this projector) and star fields too.


----------



## sddawson

JewDaddy said:


> Has there still only been the one firmware update on the 5050? I know it's silly and unrealistic but I keep holding out hope that Epson will release an update that allows FI with a 4k signal.....
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


I wouldn’t hold my breath. I suspect the processor isn’t up to it.


----------



## skylarlove1999

sddawson said:


> Yes, I agree with you. Although when projecting what is supposed to be black, I wouldn’t think room reflections come into it that much (assuming no light entering the room). I would think that the low level of light being projected would only reflect off highly reflective surfaces. Having said that, I’m still interested in what readings people get, with maybe a description of the room treatment, if only to see what people put up with!
> 
> 
> 
> My room has Rosco-painted ceiling, black velvet curtains (that have more sheen than I’d like) and a dark grey carpet. I’m wondering whether to improve this treatment even further, and trying to figure out whether this treatment will, in fact, improve my black levels. Actual movie scenes look great, but format bars are certainly a definite grey (I know they will never be black, especially with the native contrast of this projector) and star fields too.


I bought manual masking panels when I purchased my Seymour screen. You can make them if you are handy. Best decision I made besides putting up triple black velvet.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

sddawson said:


> Yes, I agree with you. Although when projecting what is supposed to be black, I wouldn’t think room reflections come into it that much (assuming no light entering the room). I would think that the low level of light being projected would only reflect off highly reflective surfaces. Having said that, I’m still interested in what readings people get, with maybe a description of the room treatment, if only to see what people put up with!


It really depends on the amount of white light is on the screen, 1% white probably not much affect but 15% will have an affect on the outcome unless the walls/celing and floor have proper non-light reflecting material.



sddawson said:


> My room has Rosco-painted ceiling, black velvet curtains (that have more sheen than I’d like) and a dark grey carpet. I’m wondering whether to improve this treatment even further, and trying to figure out whether this treatment will, in fact, improve my black levels. Actual movie scenes look great, but format bars are certainly a definite grey (I know they will never be black, especially with the native contrast of this projector) and star fields too.


In my opinion the ceiling treatment had the greatest affect on contrast mainly because it's the surface that was closest to the screen, in your case this might be the side walls but either way properly treating the ceiling makes a huge difference.


----------



## nogud

Ladeback said:


> I take it you have a long, wide and tall room? How close are you going to sit back from the screen? I could probably do about 16', but would be better at 18' back. It would be pretty cool.


Room dimensions are W= 5,15m (16ft 10.76in), L= 7,05m (23ft 1.56in), H= 3m (9ft 10.11in).
I was plannig two rows, viewing distance at about 4.5m and 6.5m.
But I'll have to rethink screen size based on the other comments on HDR.




DavidinGA said:


> I wouldn't advise going that big *if* HDR is important to you.





jeahrens said:


> The projector in high bulb in its brightest modes can pull off some high light output. However high lamp is reported to be pretty noisy and these bright modes are not color accurate. Medium lamp with a calibrated output you're looking at around 1800-2000 lumens. Still a lot, but for good HDR output for most of the bulb life I would think a 150" screen would be about as big as I'd suggest.


I didn't know about the HDR relationship with image size. I'll have to consider a smaller screen size. And yes, HDR is important to me.



skylarlove1999 said:


> The calculator isn't accounting for picture mode and lamp preference. Digital cinema mode is the DCI-P3 accurate color mode for BT.2020 signals
> The filter present in Digital Cinema mode significantly reduces the lumens. Honestly I would stay at 135 and under if you want to be really wowed with the HDR performance unless of course you are using an anamorphic lens to add brightness. You can use Natural mode and calibrate to probably 75-80% of the DCI-P3 color space but you still aren't going to achieve 67 nits on a 200 inch screen post calibration.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'll investigate anamorphic lens, I know nothing about them.

Thank you all for your comments. Ideally, I'll try the projector in the almost finished space before deciding on a final screen size, that should help making an informed decision.


----------



## sddawson

skylarlove1999 said:


> I bought manual masking panels when I purchased my Seymour screen. You can make them if you are handy. Best decision I made besides putting up triple black velvet.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Been thinking about that a lot. I suspect it would make me a lot happier (except when the star field scenes happen, which is not that often). How do yours clip on?


----------



## skylarlove1999

sddawson said:


> Been thinking about that a lot. I suspect it would make me a lot happier (except when the star field scenes happen, which is not that often). How do yours clip on?


The top is magnets and the bottom is magnets and guitar picks . Magnets only would work also. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## sddawson

Luminated67 said:


> It really depends on the amount of white light is on the screen, 1% white probably not much affect but 15% will have an affect on the outcome unless the walls/celing and floor have proper non-light reflecting material.
> 
> In my opinion the ceiling treatment had the greatest affect on contrast mainly because it's the surface that was closest to the screen, in your case this might be the side walls but either way properly treating the ceiling makes a huge difference.


Yes, I’m sure that’s the case, but I’d love to quantify this. I guess I’m looking for a lux level of the black on a brightness calibration pattern from someone who thinks they have a really good light controlled and treated room. Then I can see if my room is close enough to not keep fretting about it!


----------



## sddawson

skylarlove1999 said:


> The top is magnets and the bottom is magnets and guitar picks . Magnets only would work also.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Are the magnets built into the frame or behind the screen somehow?


----------



## skylarlove1999

sddawson said:


> Are the magnets built into the frame or behind the screen somehow?


Since I bought mine as a package they built my magnets into the screen but I'm sure you can find a way to attach magnets to your existing screen if I were using like a hot glue gun it will take some trial and error on your part I wouldn't permanently attach anything so you figure it out I would build the masking panels first with the magnets in them then match them up to your frame figure out how to attach it to the frame I have also seen people make them out of Styrofoam panels and put velvet overtop styrofoam panels and then just use velcro to attach if you Google do-it-yourself masking panels there are quite a bit of threads on AVS forum

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## zombie10k

sddawson said:


> Been thinking about that a lot. I suspect it would make me a lot happier (except when the star field scenes happen, which is not that often). How do yours clip on?


Hi, take a look at the masks I built in the blackout thread. I have a relatively large 142" 16:9 dalite screen. The top and bottom panels attach with high powered magnets located on the panels and behind the frame. 

It only takes a quick minute to attach them, they literally 'snap' into the place, the magnets I used are that strong. send me a PM if you have any q's. 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...er-theater-better-image-137.html#post54735385


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## skylarlove1999

zombie10k said:


> Hi, take a look at the masks I built in the blackout thread. I have a relatively large 142" 16:9 dalite screen. The top and bottom panels attach with high powered magnets located on the panels and behind the frame.
> 
> It only takes a quick minute to attach them, they literally 'snap' into the place, the magnets I used are that strong. send me a PM if you have any q's.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...er-theater-better-image-137.html#post54735385


Zombie thanks for chiming in I know a lot of people have really benefited from your thread over there I really appreciate you taking the time to mention it here

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## IslaTurbine

skylarlove1999 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/50ft-FURUI-Braided-HDCP2-2-Subsampling/dp/B07CGFTY77
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks. Have you experienced any handshake or ARC issues with this one since it's an Active cable? Hybrid optical vs Active optical seems to be debated somewhat on AVS.


----------



## skylarlove1999

IslaTurbine said:


> Thanks. Have you experienced any handshake or ARC issues with this one since it's an Active cable? Hybrid optical vs Active optical seems to be debated somewhat on AVS.


I have not experienced any handshake issues other than the normal takes 5 to 6 seconds to switch between sources sometimes but never any drop out of audio or video during playback

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## kevings

I just purchased a 5050 and now I'm shopping/researching getting a scope screen in the 120-125 inch range. Amazon carries Elite Aeon (which I really like the look of) but the sizes I want arent in stock, even though they are options (they're grayed out, like when an item is out of stock). Can anyone recommend another good online shop besides Amazon where this screen might be available for a similar price? Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

kevings said:


> I just purchased a 5050 and now I'm shopping/researching getting a scope screen in the 120-125 inch range. Amazon carries Elite Aeon (which I really like the look of) but the sizes I want arent in stock, even though they are options (they're grayed out, like when an item is out of stock). Can anyone recommend another good online shop besides Amazon where this screen might be available for a similar price? Thanks.


https://www.projectorscreenstore.com/elite-screens-aeon-series-promotion.html


Have no idea about their prices and or service. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

kevings said:


> I just purchased a 5050 and now I'm shopping/researching getting a scope screen in the 120-125 inch range. Amazon carries Elite Aeon (which I really like the look of) but the sizes I want arent in stock, even though they are options (they're grayed out, like when an item is out of stock). Can anyone recommend another good online shop besides Amazon where this screen might be available for a similar price? Thanks.



Check BestBuydotcom, they carry Elite Aeon.


----------



## kevings

Fred and Skylar, thx you both. I'll check out all of the recommendations.


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## drober30

kevings said:


> I just purchased a 5050 and now I'm shopping/researching getting a scope screen in the 120-125 inch range. Amazon carries Elite Aeon (which I really like the look of) but the sizes I want arent in stock, even though they are options (they're grayed out, like when an item is out of stock). Can anyone recommend another good online shop besides Amazon where this screen might be available for a similar price? Thanks.


I ordered a Screen Innovations Zero Edge with the Hue LED light package from www.projectorscreen.com it arrives Monday.

The Screen Innovations are built to order and shipped from the factory and pretty much priced fixed so I ordered from this store because of the reviews, they had the best web site to navigate and they listed the Hue LED accessory I wanted. I contacted them twice to inquire on order status and their customer service was excellent!


----------



## skylarlove1999

drober30 said:


> I ordered a Screen Innovations Zero Edge with the Hue LED light package from www.projectorscreen.com it arrives Monday.
> 
> The Screen Innovations are built to order and shipped from the factory and pretty much priced fixed so I ordered from this store because of the reviews, they had the best web site to navigate and they listed the Hue LED accessory I wanted. I contacted them twice to inquire on order status and their customer service was excellent!


I am sure you will be quite happy with the end results. SI Zero Edge is quite a bit more than the Elite Aeon screen the OP was shopping for. Only pointing out the price difference so the OP doesn't fall in love with the SI Zero Edge before checking out the price.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Chris Corcoran

Hey guys


This thread has helped me out quite a bit and I'm really enjoying my purchase but I need some clarification on calibration.

I have a DVE essentials blu ray calibration disc and wondering if it's of use.

Can I use it and calibrate a setting as I normally would with an SDR projector or tv and have everything remain accurate when I display HDR? In other words if I'm happy with black/white/color/tiny etc using the sdr calibration disc the HDR color will also be calibrated? Or do I need some sort of calibration material that is displaying HDR and calibrate it that way ?

Thanks


----------



## skylarlove1999

Chris Corcoran said:


> Hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thread has helped me out quite a bit and I'm really enjoying my purchase but I need some clarification on calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a DVE essentials blu ray calibration disc and wondering if it's of use.
> 
> 
> 
> Can I use it and calibrate a setting as I normally would with an SDR projector or tv and have everything remain accurate when I display HDR? In other words if I'm happy with black/white/color/tiny etc using the sdr calibration disc the HDR color will also be calibrated? Or do I need some sort of calibration material that is displaying HDR and calibrate it that way ?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


That is a great question. I have always thought that since it is two different signals SDR and HDR that the colors would react differently to the signal hence the need for some adjustments to your greyscale for each signal. I sure hope someone who really knows about projector calibration can answer this in detail. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris Corcoran

My logic is color is color. It consists of mixtures of RGB. If I have RGB set in sdr, then HDR should be set even though it has different and more vibrant colors, it's just a different mix of rgb.

Also hdr does not make a blacker black, or whiter white.


----------



## sddawson

skylarlove1999 said:


> Since I bought mine as a package they built my magnets into the screen but I'm sure you can find a way to attach magnets to your existing screen if I were using like a hot glue gun it will take some trial and error on your part I wouldn't permanently attach anything so you figure it out I would build the masking panels first with the magnets in them then match them up to your frame figure out how to attach it to the frame I have also seen people make them out of Styrofoam panels and put velvet overtop styrofoam panels and then just use velcro to attach if you Google do-it-yourself masking panels there are quite a bit of threads on AVS forum


Thanks - I’ll start doing some more research.


zombie10k said:


> Hi, take a look at the masks I built in the blackout thread. I have a relatively large 142" 16:9 dalite screen. The top and bottom panels attach with high powered magnets located on the panels and behind the frame.
> 
> It only takes a quick minute to attach them, they literally 'snap' into the place, the magnets I used are that strong. send me a PM if you have any q's.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...er-theater-better-image-137.html#post54735385


Thanks - I’ll have a good read.

Still love to see people’s readings of black levels though!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Chris Corcoran said:


> My logic is color is color. It consists of mixtures of RGB. If I have RGB set in sdr, then HDR should be set even though it has different and more vibrant colors, it's just a different mix of rgb.
> 
> 
> 
> Also hdr does not make a blacker black, or whiter white.


I can certainly understand that perspective and logically it makes sense to me. You could be 100% accurate. Would be nice to have a professional calibrator confirm. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## plain fan

Could cross post the question over in the S&M thread to see what Spears states about it, but the answer might be to buy the newer disc.


----------



## biglen

I just tried some 3D content on my 5050. Does anyone know what the Auto mode for 3D is supposed to do? I was hoping it would automatically switch to 3D mode, but I have to manually do it. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I just tried some 3D content on my 5050. Does anyone know what the Auto mode for 3D is supposed to do? I was hoping it would automatically switch to 3D mode, but I have to manually do it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


With my UHD when my 6050 recognizes a 3D signal it automatically switches to 3D mode. Maybe because it is digital media it is not doing so.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> With my UHD when my 6050 recognizes a 3D signal it automatically switches to 3D mode. Maybe because it is digital media it is not doing so.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That's probably it. It most likely only recognizes a disc. Thanks ! What settings are you using? I'm seeing a little ghosting when watching 3D. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> That's probably it. It most likely only recognizes a disc. Thanks ! What settings are you using? I'm seeing a little ghosting when watching 3D.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Honestly I haven't watched enough 3D to establish any settings. 4k disks have spoiled me

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Honestly I haven't watched enough 3D to establish any settings. 4k disks have spoiled me
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I hear ya. One of these days you have to stop over and check out the painted screen. Everytime I watch something, I'm more and more blown away by the picture quality. It looks like you can jump right into the screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I hear ya. One of these days you have to stop over and check out the painted screen. Everytime I watch something, I'm more and more blown away by the picture quality. It looks like you can jump right into the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I am sure it does. I will have to do that.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## zombie10k

Chris Corcoran said:


> Hey guys
> 
> This thread has helped me out quite a bit and I'm really enjoying my purchase but I need some clarification on calibration.
> 
> I have a DVE essentials blu ray calibration disc and wondering if it's of use.
> 
> Can I use it and calibrate a setting as I normally would with an SDR projector or tv and have everything remain accurate when I display HDR? In other words if I'm happy with black/white/color/tiny etc using the sdr calibration disc the HDR color will also be calibrated? Or do I need some sort of calibration material that is displaying HDR and calibrate it that way ?
> 
> Thanks


 Hi, SDR and HDR calibrations are unique. SDR calibration does occur first, following with HDR. I would recommend picking up the S&M UHD. They have excellent HDR patterns to ensure you're not clipping detail in highlights and assists with calibration of other areas of the projector settings that affect the overall HDR picture quality. 

there is a getting started guide here:

http://spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio-item/getting-started-with-the-ultrahd-benchmark-3rd-edition/


----------



## BIC2

Rob Greer said:


> I've been trying to add my new 6050 to my Harmony Elite remote, but that model projector isn't listed as available. Harmony was once be pretty good about adding mainstream gear quickly, but the 6050 isn't on the list--at least for what I'm entering. Any suggestions short of manually adding the remote features to Harmony? Am I not entering the model number info correctly? TIA





--Sclaws said:


> Iirc I used the 5040 profile for my 5050. The HDR button was the only one I had to add manually.


Harmony has the 4050, 5040 & 5050. I tried all three. None will power on the 6050. That doesn't seem right.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> Harmony has the 4050, 5040 & 5050. I tried all three. None will power on the 6050. That doesn't seem right.


I used the 5050 and it powered on and off my 6050. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

zombie10k said:


> Chris Corcoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> This thread has helped me out quite a bit and I'm really enjoying my purchase but I need some clarification on calibration.
> 
> I have a DVE essentials blu ray calibration disc and wondering if it's of use.
> 
> Can I use it and calibrate a setting as I normally would with an SDR projector or tv and have everything remain accurate when I display HDR? In other words if I'm happy with black/white/color/tiny etc using the sdr calibration disc the HDR color will also be calibrated? Or do I need some sort of calibration material that is displaying HDR and calibrate it that way ?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, SDR and HDR calibrations are unique. SDR calibration does occur first, following with HDR. I would recommend picking up the S&M UHD. They have excellent HDR patterns to ensure you're not clipping detail in highlights and assists with calibration of other areas of the projector settings that affect the overall HDR picture quality.
> 
> there is a getting started guide here:
> 
> http://spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio-item/getting-started-with-the-ultrahd-benchmark-3rd-edition/
Click to expand...

Yup, that is correct. SDR and HDR calibrations are different including the greyscale I’m afraid. 

I have actually asked Epson - along with other calibrated and reviewers no doubt - that the projector has a dedicated set of HDR colour modes we can calibrate just like it currently switches into a different set of 3D colour modes. 

The reason for this is to allow everything from brightness, contrast, greyscale, gamma and gamut settings to be different and stick. At the moment I have all 10 memory slots filled in for:
HDR MAX brightness
HDR Bright Cinema
HDR Natural 
HDR BT2020
SDR Day
Etc... you get my drift.

The HDR calibrations that use Dynamic, Bright Cinema or Natural picture modes use a higher contrast setting and a customised gamma curve to correct elevated near-black performance from the projector which only occurs in HDR. Simply putting the gamma down to -2 for examples introduces more errors in HDR than it solves. 

Each HDR mode also requires a different default HDR brightness preset from the 16 available. I’ve asked Epson to save this with the picture mode and not have it as a global setting. Currently I say it in the memory slot name what number (eg. 8) I configured it for. Then I’ll adjust it only a click up or down for certain movies.

So yup, calibrate HDR separately and save it into a memory slot until Epson gives us separate colour modes. Highly annoying right now. 😉


----------



## rollon1980

...another thing I’ve asked Epson was to add more gamma points to configure for HDR, especially near black. Although this is gonna be a much longer shot for them to consider it. The gamma tracking is very good especially with the filter in place but once you start using Natural, Bright Cinema or Dynamic for max brightness, near black performance would need a bit more precision than the two gamma points on black and above black. 😛 

Reducing the second gamma point by 2-3 clicks improves things to a point where it looks great at least on my set up. But again, we could get it looking even better. 🙂


----------



## BIC2

skylarlove1999 said:


> I used the 5050 and it powered on and off my 6050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Got it working with the 5050 setting now. Any changes for 6050? Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> Got it working with the 5050 setting now. Any changes for 6050? Thanks.


Not any I added. the commands are same for 5050 and 6050 except for the anamorphic lens mode maybe?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Not any I added. the commands are same for 5050 and 6050 except for the anamorphic lens mode maybe?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


There's no way I can run my Shield directly to the 5050, and get sound through my AVR, right? There's no ARC with the 5050?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> There's no way I can run my Shield directly to the 5050, and get sound through my AVR, right? There's no ARC with the 5050?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


The Shield only has one output so you are correct . Everything has to run through the AVR for the shield to output audio and video. There is a UHD player from Cambridge Audio that has dual HDMI outputs so you could send video directly to the projector and audio to the AVR. Since that particular player also has an HDMI input you could use the HDMI input to connect your shield and the UHD player would then be separating the audio and video signal using the dual HDMI outputs. I assume you are still having that audio and video delay and trying to find a solution. The UHD player would be a really expensive potential solution. No guarantee it solves your issues. I don't recommend it because of how expensive the player is and you don't really do discs.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> The Shield only has one output so you are correct . Everything has to run through the AVR for the shield to output audio and video. There is a UHD player from Cambridge Audio that has dual HDMI outputs so you could send video directly to the projector and audio to the AVR. Since that particular player also has an HDMI input you could use the HDMI input to connect your shield and the UHD player would then be separating the audio and video signal using the dual HDMI outputs. I assume you are still having that audio and video delay and trying to find a solution. The UHD player would be a really expensive potential solution. No guarantee it solves your issues. I don't recommend it because of how expensive the player is and you don't really do discs.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


This issue is consuming my life. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

biglen said:


> This issue is consuming my life.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Breath dude. Take a few days and accept the 10 second delay as your portal to other worlds revs up. Make believe it's like some magic device that needs to do great cosmic work to prepare itself before granting you access. In a few days come back to the problem relaxed. In the meantime reflect on the fact that the global median per-capita household income is just under the cost of a 5050. Not trying to belittle your frustration, but keep perspective. You'll figure out the problem soon enough, and quicker if you're less frustrated.


----------



## BIC2

Wondering about the Standby mode. As I've been setting up new HT system, I've left 6050 on with no signal input and it goes to Standby. That would be OK, but seems to crash there. Appears to be no way from remote to either wake it or shut it off. I sometimes wind up with flashing blue & orange lights and have to pull the plug to reset things.


----------



## asolor78

rollon1980 said:


> zombie10k said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chris Corcoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> This thread has helped me out quite a bit and I'm really enjoying my purchase but I need some clarification on calibration.
> 
> I have a DVE essentials blu ray calibration disc and wondering if it's of use.
> 
> Can I use it and calibrate a setting as I normally would with an SDR projector or tv and have everything remain accurate when I display HDR? In other words if I'm happy with black/white/color/tiny etc using the sdr calibration disc the HDR color will also be calibrated? Or do I need some sort of calibration material that is displaying HDR and calibrate it that way ?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, SDR and HDR calibrations are unique. SDR calibration does occur first, following with HDR. I would recommend picking up the S&M UHD. They have excellent HDR patterns to ensure you're not clipping detail in highlights and assists with calibration of other areas of the projector settings that affect the overall HDR picture quality.
> 
> there is a getting started guide here:
> 
> http://spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio-item/getting-started-with-the-ultrahd-benchmark-3rd-edition/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup, that is correct. SDR and HDR calibrations are different including the greyscale I’m afraid.
> 
> I have actually asked Epson - along with other calibrated and reviewers no doubt - that the projector has a dedicated set of HDR colour modes we can calibrate just like it currently switches into a different set of 3D colour modes.
> 
> The reason for this is to allow everything from brightness, contrast, greyscale, gamma and gamut settings to be different and stick. At the moment I have all 10 memory slots filled in for:
> HDR MAX brightness
> HDR Bright Cinema
> HDR Natural
> HDR BT2020
> SDR Day
> Etc... you get my drift.
> 
> The HDR calibrations that use Dynamic, Bright Cinema or Natural picture modes use a higher contrast setting and a customised gamma curve to correct elevated near-black performance from the projector which only occurs in HDR. Simply putting the gamma down to -2 for examples introduces more errors in HDR than it solves.
> 
> Each HDR mode also requires a different default HDR brightness preset from the 16 available. I’ve asked Epson to save this with the picture mode and not have it as a global setting. Currently I say it in the memory slot name what number (eg. 8) I configured it for. Then I’ll adjust it only a click up or down for certain movies.
> 
> So yup, calibrate HDR separately and save it into a memory slot until Epson gives us separate colour modes. Highly annoying right now. 😉
Click to expand...

 @rollon1980 thanks again for your update regarding gamma "fix". Without changing so much i can tell that hdr image has a bit more of that spectral luminance punch. If there was an ability to share ur suggestion of color calibration for bright cinema. I do see ur concern with the brown tinting.. which i messed around with offset and advanced menu made some small changes to the brightness on rgbcmy colors... But would like to see if u changed grey scale...also what calibrations are folks usi g for sport games? Ive used a mix of alarics and pj review for sdr and hdr. I love the digital cinema for movies that can give wide color.. but the dimmed output not the best.. but using bright cinema that rollon1980 gave with gamma edit makes comic book movies or hdr movies shine..


----------



## rollon1980

asolor78 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> zombie10k said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chris Corcoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> This thread has helped me out quite a bit and I'm really enjoying my purchase but I need some clarification on calibration.
> 
> I have a DVE essentials blu ray calibration disc and wondering if it's of use.
> 
> Can I use it and calibrate a setting as I normally would with an SDR projector or tv and have everything remain accurate when I display HDR? In other words if I'm happy with black/white/color/tiny etc using the sdr calibration disc the HDR color will also be calibrated? Or do I need some sort of calibration material that is displaying HDR and calibrate it that way ?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, SDR and HDR calibrations are unique. SDR calibration does occur first, following with HDR. I would recommend picking up the S&M UHD. They have excellent HDR patterns to ensure you're not clipping detail in highlights and assists with calibration of other areas of the projector settings that affect the overall HDR picture quality.
> 
> there is a getting started guide here:
> 
> http://spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio-item/getting-started-with-the-ultrahd-benchmark-3rd-edition/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup, that is correct. SDR and HDR calibrations are different including the greyscale I’m afraid.
> 
> I have actually asked Epson - along with other calibrated and reviewers no doubt - that the projector has a dedicated set of HDR colour modes we can calibrate just like it currently switches into a different set of 3D colour modes.
> 
> The reason for this is to allow everything from brightness, contrast, greyscale, gamma and gamut settings to be different and stick. At the moment I have all 10 memory slots filled in for:
> HDR MAX brightness
> HDR Bright Cinema
> HDR Natural
> HDR BT2020
> SDR Day
> Etc... you get my drift.
> 
> The HDR calibrations that use Dynamic, Bright Cinema or Natural picture modes use a higher contrast setting and a customised gamma curve to correct elevated near-black performance from the projector which only occurs in HDR. Simply putting the gamma down to -2 for examples introduces more errors in HDR than it solves.
> 
> Each HDR mode also requires a different default HDR brightness preset from the 16 available. I’ve asked Epson to save this with the picture mode and not have it as a global setting. Currently I say it in the memory slot name what number (eg. 8) I configured it for. Then I’ll adjust it only a click up or down for certain movies.
> 
> So yup, calibrate HDR separately and save it into a memory slot until Epson gives us separate colour modes. Highly annoying right now. 😉
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @rollon1980 thanks again for your update regarding gamma "fix". Without changing so much i can tell that hdr image has a bit more of that spectral luminance punch. If there was an ability to share ur suggestion of color calibration for bright cinema. I do see ur concern with the brown tinting.. which i messed around with offset and advanced menu made some small changes to the brightness on rgbcmy colors... But would like to see if u changed grey scale...also what calibrations are folks usi g for sport games? Ive used a mix of alarics and pj review for sdr and hdr. I love the digital cinema for movies that can give wide color.. but the dimmed output not the best.. but using bright cinema that rollon1980 gave with gamma edit makes comic book movies or hdr movies shine..
Click to expand...

My lamp has just reached 50hrs so I’m still a bit hesitant to start sharing greyscale information as the lamp has been shifting still.

As long as you correct the brown tinting in the low end which is super offensive, the raised gamma and colour clipping using an HDR pattern (or just lower colour luminance to 45 for all colours for now), that’s all I can recommend for now. It gets you a decent enough image.
I’ll re-do all calibration at 100hrs and report findings more accurately. That should make a bit more sense at that point. 🙂

Digital cinema can look great, btw!
Raise contrast to 60, then set HDR brightness to 6. See how that looks. Raise it from there if still too dim, but be aware that colours get more and more de-saturated as you raise the slider. I find that for movies not using a massively saturated gamut, it’s better to switch into Natural or Bright Cinema with the settings I described. 

Gamma isn’t really raised that much in the low end with the filter in place (Digital Cinema) so no correction is necessary for a great image. 

I have Digital Cinema set up a lot more accurately and it’s been shifting less too but I’ll wait to share settings until lamp settles a bit more. 

Most of all, enjoy the image. This projector is awesome! 🙂


----------



## RedPills4All

*Overshoot even w/ Blanking?*

So I'm having a weird issue and it's only happening on certain movies in dark scenes. I'm using a 2.35:1 screen with zoom.

I'm noticing that the black bars that normally overshoot the screen due to zoom are still overshooting the screen, even though I have blanking configured to crop at the exact top and bottom of the screen. This doesn't happen with bright scenes - blanking works great there down to the pixel. I can see if I can snag a picture of it but it will be hard to do in the low light. Anyone have any ideas on what might be happening? 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## escapeyourmind

I recently bought a 5050ub on a whim and have a question on the sharpness.

Currently I am just projecting onto a standard wall that is light gray and has a standard orange peel texture. I am wondering if that would cause a lack of sharpness from the projected image? I don't really notice the texture during movies except during bright scenes, and I make sure to use the pattern mode to set the sharpness of the lines as best I can but even then they aren't as sharp as I would like. But maybe I am expecting too much coming from an oled tv.

In case it matters I am projecting an image in 16:9 that is ~144" diagonal (126"x71") and sit about 10ft from the wall. This is maxed out for my room which is wider than it is deep. I should also note that my room is not a dedicated theater room so I have no plans on painting walls or replacing the light colored carpet. However I have blackout shades and really only watch at night so the room gets pretty dark, but there are reflections from walls and such.


----------



## skylarlove1999

escapeyourmind said:


> I recently bought a 5050ub on a whim and have a question on the sharpness.
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I am just projecting onto a standard wall that is light gray and has a standard orange peel texture. I am wondering if that would cause a lack of sharpness from the projected image? I don't really notice the texture during movies except during bright scenes, and I make sure to use the pattern mode to set the sharpness of the lines as best I can but even then they aren't as sharp as I would like. But maybe I am expecting too much coming from an oled tv.
> 
> 
> 
> In case it matters I am projecting an image in 16:9 that is ~144" diagonal (126"x71") and sit about 10ft from the wall. This is maxed out for my room which is wider than it is deep. I should also note that my room is not a dedicated theater room so I have no plans on painting walls or replacing the light colored carpet. However I have blackout shades and really only watch at night so the room gets pretty dark, but there are reflections from walls and such.


Really not trying to offend you but if you didn't really research or prepare to own a projector I am not surprised you are not satisfied with your picture quality. Room conditions certainly affect the quality of the image you see. Not having a screen is certainly having a negative impact on the perceived sharpness. I haven't seen any professional reviews of the Epson 5050ub mentioning sharpness as being an issue. Only a couple of owners here complained of sharpness issues and they had their projectors replaced by Epson. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## escapeyourmind

skylarlove1999 said:


> So you went out and bought a 5050 like someone goes to the store and sees a magazine in the checkout line and decides to buy it?
> 
> Really not trying to offend you but you didn't really research or prepare to own a projector and you want the other owners in this thread to use their time energy and knowledge to craft an intelligent response to your sharpness questions. You can see no one has responded because I think they believe like I do why should we take this more seriously than you seem to take it.
> 
> So I will respond. If you were trying to bake a cake but didn't bother to read the recipe and just threw all the ingredients in a bowl without measuring would you be surprised that the cake didn't rise once you put it into the oven? Would you be surprised that it didn't taste much like a cake? There is not a thing wrong with the sharpness of the Epson 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I had researched plenty on projectors in the past and planned on eventually getting one when native 4k projectors came down in price (even went to local places to see various ones in person). When I say on a whim it was more of a I was checking on the current state of projectors and noticed a lot of people talking about the 5050 and after a few hours of reading reviews and watching various video reviews I went and bought one, which for me is on a whim, I normally compare and contrast products for months.

In my case I am mainly wondering if sharpness can be improved with a screen or not or rather how much, and if the texture of the wall might be throwing it off. I know in this thread previously someone had sharpness problems that they ended up having to get a new one from epson. I am trying to figure out if I have a similar problem or if it could be caused by a lack of screen right now.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

I see two issues. With a 144" image you should be sitting more like 12 or 13 feet back, and with a regular not-made-for-home-theater wall you're not going to have the type of surface that will give you the best picture possible. You're double compromised. Get a good fixed screen and you'll begin seeing improvements, even at a 9' seating distance.


----------



## escapeyourmind

MidnightWatcher said:


> I see two issues. With a 144" image you should be sitting more like 12 or 13 feet back, and with a regular not-made-for-home-theater wall you're not going to have the type of surface that will give you the best picture possible. You're double compromised. Get a good fixed screen and you'll begin seeing improvements, even at a 9' seating distance.


I was wondering if that had something to do with it as well. Technically I'm over the 1.5x the height zone, though I suspect more people prefer 2x+. And with the screen door affect that the Epson has I wasn't sure if that would reduce some of the sharpness as well. Again just trying to figure out if a screen makes _that_ much of a difference for sharpness before dropping money on one.

I guess an easy way to test that is to just zoom it in some so it isn't as large and see if I notice increased sharpness. I am planning on getting a screen, but I haven't been able to decide yet on which one or which size, or even if I want CIW/CIH/CIA. I think though I am leaning towards (I believe it would be) CIH+IMAX. So scope will be as wide as the projector will go in my room, 16:9 I'd probably scale down and mask (for things like netflix/tv/etc) so they don't look too large, and allow for variable aspect ratio movies to go full 16:9 if necessary.


----------



## noob00224

Are dust blobs covered under Epson's warranty?


----------



## skylarlove1999

noob00224 said:


> Are dust blobs covered under Epson's warranty?


Yes they should be. They will ask for pictures sometimes . 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

escapeyourmind said:


> I was wondering if that had something to do with it as well. Technically I'm over the 1.5x the height zone, though I suspect more people prefer 2x+. And with the screen door affect that the Epson has I wasn't sure if that would reduce some of the sharpness as well. Again just trying to figure out if a screen makes _that_ much of a difference for sharpness before dropping money on one.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess an easy way to test that is to just zoom it in some so it isn't as large and see if I notice increased sharpness. I am planning on getting a screen, but I haven't been able to decide yet on which one or which size, or even if I want CIW/CIH/CIA. I think though I am leaning towards (I believe it would be) CIH+IMAX. So scope will be as wide as the projector will go in my room, 16:9 I'd probably scale down and mask (for things like netflix/tv/etc) so they don't look too large, and allow for variable aspect ratio movies to go full 16:9 if necessary.


Screen door effect shouldn't impact sharpness. Unless you have a defective projector, the sharpness you perceive as being lacking in the projector is likely either the result of your surface or the source material . I will say that coming from a 55 or 65 inch television to a projector, any inferior source such as a 720p signal like NFL on Fox will not look as sharp on a 120+ inch display. In general when comparing the hard screen of a television to the soft screen of a projector setup, the TV would appear sharper with text than the projector even at comparable sizes. I am not saying the projector should appear blurry but as with all things there are still varying degrees of sharpness among quality projectors. I would suggest buying an inexpensive screen that you can easily return. Test it out and see if the sharpness is acceptable to you. If it is then you can decide how much you would like to spend on a screen.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

escapeyourmind said:


> I recently bought a 5050ub on a whim and have a question on the sharpness.
> 
> 
> 
> Currently I am just projecting onto a standard wall that is light gray and has a standard orange peel texture. I am wondering if that would cause a lack of sharpness from the projected image? I don't really notice the texture during movies except during bright scenes, and I make sure to use the pattern mode to set the sharpness of the lines as best I can but even then they aren't as sharp as I would like. But maybe I am expecting too much coming from an oled tv.
> 
> 
> 
> In case it matters I am projecting an image in 16:9 that is ~144" diagonal (126"x71") and sit about 10ft from the wall. This is maxed out for my room which is wider than it is deep. I should also note that my room is not a dedicated theater room so I have no plans on painting walls or replacing the light colored carpet. However I have blackout shades and really only watch at night so the room gets pretty dark, but there are reflections from walls and such.


If your walls are light gray already, you should consider a painted screen like I did. The Black Flame mix I got from @MississippiMan, is a light gray, and my picture is crystal clear.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## tomgru

rbk123 said:


> Right. Alaric's and others I would try first. I would not recommend professional calibration until you're absolutely sure you will keep the projector. Alaric & others will get you sufficiently close that professional won't improve that much beyond.


Can someone point me to these settings? I've been through 40 pages so far and can't seen to find them.

thanks!


----------



## skylarlove1999

tomgru said:


> Can someone point me to these settings? I've been through 40 pages so far and can't seen to find them.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks!


https://sites.google.com/view/dreaming-cinema/home

Thank @Alaric for all his work and willingness to share. Keep in mind his viewing room is a dedicated blacked out theater. YMMV. Room conditions have a tremendous impact on projector performance as do screen gain, throw distance, and viewing distance. Alaric has a great intro into how he arrived at this settings with his setups. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

biglen said:


> If your walls are light gray already, you should consider a painted screen like I did. The Black Flame mix I got from @MississippiMan, is a light gray, and my picture is crystal clear.
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


They mention standard orange peel texturing on the wall. So unless they're willing to do the work to get to a smooth surface, I'd say a screen is a better choice here.


----------



## biglen

jeahrens said:


> They mention standard orange peel texturing on the wall. So unless they're willing to do the work to get to a smooth surface, I'd say a screen is a better choice here.


I had standard orange peel too. I primed the wall first, then painted the screen. It came out great. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

biglen said:


> I had standard orange peel too. I primed the wall first, then painted the screen. It came out great.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yeah you did the work and did it right. Just pointing out that they need to do the same or they aren't going to be happy with the results. So a screen may be a better option.


----------



## biglen

jeahrens said:


> Yeah you did the work and did it right. Just pointing out that they need to do the same or they aren't going to be happy with the results. So a screen may be a better option.


He just seemed like a good candidate since his walls were already gray. I like the painted screen, because I never have to worry about black bars on widescreen or 16x9 content. The idea of putting masks up and taking them down to cover the screen for different content, gave me the incentive to put the work into the painted screen. There's benefits to both though. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

biglen said:


> He just seemed like a good candidate since his walls were already gray. I like the painted screen, because I never have to worry about black bars on widescreen or 16x9 content. The idea of putting masks up and taking them down to cover the screen for different content, gave me the incentive to put the work into the painted screen. There's benefits to both though.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Not arguing he isn't a good candidate. But getting a really smooth surface takes work and time. Also he mentions a CIH + IMAX or CIA (whatever that is dimension wise), which means the shape he paints may require masking. CIH really doesn't as the letterbox bars are not in the active screen area and the pillarboxing isn't lit by the panel. Unless the material is narrower than 16:9 (4:3 television for example) unlit panel area is never on the screen area in a CIH screen.


----------



## biglen

jeahrens said:


> Not arguing he isn't a good candidate. But getting a really smooth surface takes work and time. Also he mentions a CIH + IMAX or CIA (whatever that is dimension wise), which means the shape he paints may require masking. CIH really doesn't as the letterbox bars are not in the active screen area and the pillarboxing isn't lit by the panel. Unless the material is narrower than 16:9 (4:3 television for example) unlit panel area is never on the screen area in a CIH screen.


Ah, gotcha. I was able to paint the whole wall, so I never need masking. That might not be an option for him. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## escapeyourmind

Yeah, my room is fairly large so the wall I am projecting onto is tall and wide, but the room itself isn't as deep so I can max out the projector and still have room on the top and bottom of the screen on the wall. I will try to get some pics later. So I would likely still need to mask some if I went with a painted solution. There is also the wife factor, which I'm not sure she would agree too. I actually hadn't really considered painting but I will look into it a little bit. I do like the idea of a screen I can move around since the room isn't a dedicated theater room (technically its a "game room" that I have setup to watch movies in so it may become multipurpose space in the future rather than a dedicated room with a door meant as a theater room).


----------



## jeahrens

escapeyourmind said:


> Yeah, my room is fairly large so the wall I am projecting onto is tall and wide, but the room itself isn't as deep so I can max out the projector and still have room on the top and bottom of the screen on the wall. I will try to get some pics later. So I would likely still need to mask some if I went with a painted solution. There is also the wife factor, which I'm not sure she would agree too. I actually hadn't really considered painting but I will look into it a little bit. I do like the idea of a screen I can move around since the room isn't a dedicated theater room (technically its a "game room" that I have setup to watch movies in so it may become multipurpose space in the future rather than a dedicated room with a door meant as a theater room).


If you need Wife approval painting the wall, some nice painted trim for framing helps it look nice and finished.

Portability is obviously a point in the screen's favor.


----------



## jeahrens

MississippiMan said:


> I gotta interject. If only because Epson owners deserve to get the most value and performance out of their projector choice as they can. The Pillar Boxes are exactly the same thing as are the Letter Boxes....projected Format oriented Black areas whose qualities are dependent upon PJ Panel design, and when lacking usually winds up being noticed on screen material as a very Dark Grey (or worse) because of the Panel's Light intrusion. JVC is tops in preventing almost all of that....almost, but the Epson can use a bit more help along it's way. Mostly because it's very brightness works to make Format Bars and Pillars all the more noticeable, but also due to it's lessor Contrast specs.


Pillarboxing on a scope screen for material 16:9 or wider is NOT lit by the panel. Letterboxing on a 16:9 screen is. So no they aren't the same. The former is not lighting up screen area with "black" pixels where the latter is. Unmasked letterboxing will impact perceived contrast, unmasked pillarboxing won't. Unless the Epson x050 series has a lot of light leakage that spills onto the pillarbox areas, then you would see image issues with the unmasked, unused pillarbox areas. I can't comment on leakage as the 5050 I saw was shooting onto a 16:9 screen.




MississippiMan said:


> I feel you miss Two very important points.....and overstate the work needed to make "most" walls smooth enough for 4K worthy viewing.


I'm not trying to overstate anything. Some people can rebuild an engine. Some people are afraid to screw in a light bulb. All I stated was that there would be work involved to get a smooth surface to paint and that the poster may not want to put in that effort. I'm not against painting a screen at all. You can have excellent results.




MississippiMan said:


> 1st point: If a large enough, non border confined area is painted...on a smooth surface, the Format free option allows for "any size" for a given Format, so no choice of one over the other needs to be made. With PJ's like the Epson and JVC, where H&V Lens shift / Zoom capabilities combined with Lens Memory allows for any given Format (& size) to be presented as needed, such a freedom means the greatest amount of end user satisfaction.


No matter what area you paint it has a finite length/width. I personally would define that. Frame it for it looks and mask it for contrast depending on the AR you ultimately end up with.




MississippiMan said:


> 2nd point: The nature of the Paint used is to enhance light that is at or above a certain Value, and attenuate light that reaches down below that Value. It also enhances Colors, further increasing their Chroma levels and the Saturation. The Pillars and Bars that most Projectors "project" are of a very low Value. So those areas will essentially fade to Black being attenuated further. The end effect is that any Format looks suspended within a black void.
> 
> Addressing the possible need to smooth one's Wall to the "Baby's Butt" level, that is done for cases of Orange Peel, one simple skim coat evenly applied, lightly sanded and primed, provides a surface "as good as" the best smooth vinyl Mfg screens.....better in many instances and considerations.
> 
> Even cosmetic Flaws such as Cracks, Nail Holes, Nail Pops, visible Joints...all can be addressed by the beginner if that person is willing and receives the needed instructions. Don't dissuade 'em. Send 'em over to *Here *We'll take good care of 'em.
> 
> 
> Or......let's say He deems it worthwhile to farm out the work, because he's after Epic 2.39:1 presentations, and immersive 16:9, and he wants 'em both just as big as they can be....or IMAX as it should be....then in a dedicated Theater there can be is other option that can deliver it all like a effectively created Screen Wall. Nothing is even close...so considering the $1000s of dollars saved over a really large convention screen with Multi-Masking capability, there's quite a pad built in if one considers the alternative....DIY.
> 
> 
> All together it presents a case where today more than ever, People should be encouraged to consider such a course as being every bit as valid as a format confining, more expensive Mfg Screen. All this talk about Panels.....unless the area to be painted is /must be fully limited to being within a given Format size, under the Painted Wall Premise, they are wholly redundant. @biglen essentially confirmed that.
> 
> 
> And lastly...even if the screen MUST be of a specific Format, if the area of Format Pillars and Bars are suppressed...again...where's the worry or need?
> 
> 
> I'm a solid proponent of the Epson & JVC units, because I employ them so as to support that reasoning....., and find it non-confining when planning any Screen application.


As I said above, not against painting a screen at all. However to get your seating and screen sized, you do need to make some decisions around hard dimensions. This is what I usually recommend for AR decisions:

80% TV or video game usage - Big TV 16:9 screen
50/50 TV and game/Film - 2.00:1
80% film - 2.35:1

If you want to size for that 1% of IMAX content out there then you are looking at a big 16:9 screen and a very close seating distance.

The average viewer sits about 2-3 times the height of their screen based on our average vertical immersion tolerances. Meaning for a 50" tall screen we would be 100-150" back from the screen. This is regardless of the screen AR (we run out of vertical FOV far quicker than horizontal). IMAX wants 1.5x as part of it's design is to exceed the viewers vertical field of view. So 75" from the 50" tall screen.


----------



## misterg51

IslaTurbine said:


> Which HDMI cables are people having success with for lengths of 25'? I'm finishing out my theater room and plan to run some HDMI through a wall and a ceiling prior to drywall. I want to make sure I use something that the 5050/6050 seem to get along with. (I haven't bought the projector yet...waiting till Black Friday)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT* typed 20 but meant 25'


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YGG68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## IslaTurbine

I saw that one but it’s FakeSpot rating was a C....


----------



## BIC2

IslaTurbine said:


> Which HDMI cables are people having success with for lengths of 25'? I'm finishing out my theater room and plan to run some HDMI through a wall and a ceiling prior to drywall. I want to make sure I use something that the 5050/6050 seem to get along with. (I haven't bought the projector yet...waiting till Black Friday)...


On my 6050, used this Monoprice HOSS in a 35 ft length -- works fine.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=14467


----------



## dr bill

BIC2 said:


> On my 6050, used this Monoprice HOSS in a 35 ft length -- works fine.
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=14467


Worked for me:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LD4FP5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## escapeyourmind

skylarlove1999 said:


> Screen door effect shouldn't impact sharpness. Unless you have a defective projector, the sharpness you perceive as being lacking in the projector is likely either the result of your surface or the source material . I will say that coming from a 55 or 65 inch television to a projector, any inferior source such as a 720p signal like NFL on Fox will not look as sharp on a 120+ inch display. In general when comparing the hard screen of a television to the soft screen of a projector setup, the TV would appear sharper with text than the projector even at comparable sizes. I am not saying the projector should appear blurry but as with all things there are still varying degrees of sharpness among quality projectors. I would suggest buying an inexpensive screen that you can easily return. Test it out and see if the sharpness is acceptable to you. If it is then you can decide how much you would like to spend on a screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


All the content I have been playing has been 4k movies, so it sounds like if there is anymore sharpness to be had it is likely from the surface. I'm going to look into painting or possibly just getting a cheap-ish silverticket screen and seeing how that goes. I attached some photos of both the room setup, some of the sharpness up close, and some of 4k movies playing. It is during the day right now so it is more ambient light than normal. I may just be too picky coming from oled because the images of the movies from my phone look good.



jeahrens said:


> Pillarboxing on a scope screen for material 16:9 or wider is NOT lit by the panel. Letterboxing on a 16:9 screen is. So no they aren't the same. The former is not lighting up screen area with "black" pixels where the latter is. Unmasked letterboxing will impact perceived contrast, unmasked pillarboxing won't. Unless the Epson x050 series has a lot of light leakage that spills onto the pillarbox areas, then you would see image issues with the unmasked, unused pillarbox areas. I can't comment on leakage as the 5050 I saw was shooting onto a 16:9 screen.
> 
> I'm not trying to overstate anything. Some people can rebuild an engine. Some people are afraid to screw in a light bulb. All I stated was that there would be work involved to get a smooth surface to paint and that the poster may not want to put in that effort. I'm not against painting a screen at all. You can have excellent results.
> 
> No matter what area you paint it has a finite length/width. I personally would define that. Frame it for it looks and mask it for contrast depending on the AR you ultimately end up with.
> 
> As I said above, not against painting a screen at all. However to get your seating and screen sized, you do need to make some decisions around hard dimensions. This is what I usually recommend for AR decisions:
> 
> 80% TV or video game usage - Big TV 16:9 screen
> 50/50 TV and game/Film - 2.00:1
> 80% film - 2.35:1
> 
> If you want to size for that 1% of IMAX content out there then you are looking at a big 16:9 screen and a very close seating distance.
> 
> The average viewer sits about 2-3 times the height of their screen based on our average vertical immersion tolerances. Meaning for a 50" tall screen we would be 100-150" back from the screen. This is regardless of the screen AR (we run out of vertical FOV far quicker than horizontal). IMAX wants 1.5x as part of it's design is to exceed the viewers vertical field of view. So 75" from the 50" tall screen.


I like a large image and I would say I am probably 90%+ film, maybe some netflix here and there. So I was thinking of getting the largest 16:9 screen I can for the size room I have. I just zoomed all the way out and measured and the largest 16:9 image I can project is 71x126" and a 10' seating distance. So it would make sense if I were to paint I would just measure that out and prep/paint in that area. If I were to go with a screen and didn't go custom sizing, I would probably have to go with a 135" (66x118) and zoom it a little, but would prefer it larger.


----------



## skylarlove1999

escapeyourmind said:


> All the content I have been playing has been 4k movies, so it sounds like if there is anymore sharpness to be had it is likely from the surface. I'm going to look into painting or possibly just getting a cheap-ish silverticket screen and seeing how that goes. I attached some photos of both the room setup, some of the sharpness up close, and some of 4k movies playing. It is during the day right now so it is more ambient light than normal. I may just be too picky coming from oled because the images of the movies from my phone look good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like a large image and I would say I am probably 90%+ film, maybe some netflix here and there. So I was thinking of getting the largest 16:9 screen I can for the size room I have. I just zoomed all the way out and measured and the largest 16:9 image I can project is 71x126" and a 10' seating distance. So it would make sense if I were to paint I would just measure that out and prep/paint in that area. If I were to go with a screen and didn't go custom sizing, I would probably have to go with a 135" (66x118) and zoom it a little, but would prefer it larger.


Honestly for daytime images in a room with white walls and ceiling, your images don't look all that bad especially considering you are just projecting onto a gray wall. Maybe look for a used screen. I think your image quality will improve noticeably.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## IslaTurbine

dr bill said:


> BIC2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> On my 6050, used this Monoprice HOSS in a 35 ft length -- works fine.
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=14467
> 
> 
> 
> Worked for me:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LD4FP5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...

I bought this one and received it today. Unfortunately Amazon sent me a 100’ cable from some company named Ibirdie. So it’s going back and they’re shipping another; hopefully the correct one.


----------



## biglen

escapeyourmind said:


> All the content I have been playing has been 4k movies, so it sounds like if there is anymore sharpness to be had it is likely from the surface. I'm going to look into painting or possibly just getting a cheap-ish silverticket screen and seeing how that goes. I attached some photos of both the room setup, some of the sharpness up close, and some of 4k movies playing. It is during the day right now so it is more ambient light than normal. I may just be too picky coming from oled because the images of the movies from my phone look good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like a large image and I would say I am probably 90%+ film, maybe some netflix here and there. So I was thinking of getting the largest 16:9 screen I can for the size room I have. I just zoomed all the way out and measured and the largest 16:9 image I can project is 71x126" and a 10' seating distance. So it would make sense if I were to paint I would just measure that out and prep/paint in that area. If I were to go with a screen and didn't go custom sizing, I would probably have to go with a 135" (66x118) and zoom it a little, but would prefer it larger.


This is a 57" x 101" image on my painted wall from Thursday night. It's only 1080p, but it's pretty damn good.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> This is a 57" x 101" image on my painted wall from Thursday night. It's only 1080p, but it's pretty damn good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That looks fantastic. Did you upscale the 1080P to 4k or just watch in 1080P?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> That looks fantastic. Did you upscale the 1080P to 4k or just watch in 1080P?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'm not sure because 4k Enhancement is always grayed out for me. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I'm not sure because 4k Enhancement is always grayed out for me.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That means the projector is receiving a 4K signal if the 4K Enhancement is grayed out. So somewhere in your chain before being sent to the projector the 1080P Signal is being unconverted to 4K. That is a great image from Thursday Night Football. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> That means the projector is receiving a 4K signal if the 4K Enhancement is grayed out. So somewhere in your chain before being sent to the projector the 1080P Signal is being unconverted to 4K. That is a great image from Thursday Night Football.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I have my Xfinity box set to 4k resolution. Is that what I should have it set to, or should I change it to 1080p ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I have my Xfinity box set to 4k resolution. Is that what I should have it set to, or should I change it to 1080p ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


If you set your Xfinity box to 1080P, you should see the projector info resolution as 1920 x 1080. 4K Enhancement should not longer be greyed out.

Then you can decide if you want the projector to convert to 4K. Some people prefer to let the projector do the conversion rather than letting your cable box convert 1080p to 4K.

Some people prefer just watching the 1080p signal. In that case you just set the Xfinity box to 1080P and set 4K Enhancement to off. If you do that you can use the Frame Interpolation. 

Some people like to use FI when watching sports. FI can only be used when the projector receives a 1080P signal and 4K Enhancement is set to off.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> If you set your Xfinity box to 1080P, you should see the projector info resolution as 1920 x 1080. 4K Enhancement should not longer be greyed out.
> 
> Then you can decide if you want the projector to convert to 4K. Some people prefer to let the projector do the conversion rather than letting your cable box convert 1080p to 4K.
> 
> Some people prefer just watching the 1080p signal. In that case you just set the Xfinity box to 1080P and set 4K Enhancement to off. If you do that you can use the Frame Interpolation.
> 
> Some people like to use FI when watching sports. FI can only be used when the projector receives a 1080P signal and 4K Enhancement is set to off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Frame Interpolation is grayed out when I have the Xfinity box set to 1080p.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Frame Interpolation is grayed out when I have the Xfinity box set to 1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My guess is that is because you still have the 4K Enhancement on. I could be wrong but with 4K Enhancement set to off and the projector receiving a 1080P signal you should be able to use Frame Interpolation 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> My guess is that is because you still have the 4K Enhancement on. I could be wrong but with 4K Enhancement set to off and the projector receiving a 1080P signal you should be able to use Frame Interpolation
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


4k Enhancement is off.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> 4k Enhancement is off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


So are you saying you still can't turn on Frame Interpolation if you wanted to do so? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> So are you saying you still can't turn on Frame Interpolation if you wanted to do so?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Nope, it's still grayed out. Noise Reduction and MPEG Noise Reduction are grayed out too. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Kris Kieffer

Ok, extremely new to the projector game and I'm sure this has been covered...but why can't I stream any 4k movies from Vudu or Fandangonow? I have an Epson 6050 and a Denon 6500. Every time I try to rent a movie in 4k it's basically telling me that my setup is not 4k compatible. I can watch youtube videos and check the stats and it shows I'm watching 4k. I'm sure it's something in the settings on one or both of the devices. Anybody else able to stream with either of these?

Oh and I'm using an Nvidia Shield, FireTV 4K, and a Sony UBP X800 ultra HD player.


----------



## biglen

Kris Kieffer said:


> Ok, extremely new to the projector game and I'm sure this has been covered...but why can't I stream any 4k movies from Vudu or Fandangonow? I have an Epson 6050 and a Denon 6500. Every time I try to rent a movie in 4k it's basically telling me that my setup is not 4k compatible. I can watch youtube videos and check the stats and it shows I'm watching 4k. I'm sure it's something in the settings on one or both of the devices. Anybody else able to stream with either of these?
> 
> Oh and I'm using an Nvidia Shield, FireTV 4K, and a Sony UBP X800 ultra HD player.


Do you have EDID set to Expanded? What is the Shield resolution set to?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kris Kieffer said:


> Ok, extremely new to the projector game and I'm sure this has been covered...but why can't I stream any 4k movies from Vudu or Fandangonow? I have an Epson 6050 and a Denon 6500. Every time I try to rent a movie in 4k it's basically telling me that my setup is not 4k compatible. I can watch youtube videos and check the stats and it shows I'm watching 4k. I'm sure it's something in the settings on one or both of the devices. Anybody else able to stream with either of these?
> 
> Oh and I'm using an Nvidia Shield, FireTV 4K, and a Sony UBP X800 ultra HD player.


I have the 6050, the Denon 6500 and a Roku Ultra player and I can watch all 100 of my UHD movies on Vudu. My guess is one of your HDMI cables is your issue. Have you tried plugging your Nvidia Shield directly into your projector and see if you can buy/rent a UHD movie on Vudu? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Nope, it's still grayed out. Noise Reduction and MPEG Noise Reduction are grayed out too.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That is strange you should definitely be able to use Frame Interpolation with 4K Enhancement set to off and the projector receiving a 1920 x 1080 signal. I 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kris Kieffer

Yes, plugged the Shield directly to the projector and it still won't let me stream 4k


----------



## Kris Kieffer

I've tried EDID both ways. Shield is set at [email protected] he currently, but it was on the recommended setting of [email protected] 59.94?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kris Kieffer said:


> I've tried EDID both ways. Shield is set at [email protected] he currently, but it was on the recommended setting of [email protected] 59.94?[/quote @biglen sounds like the issues that were created with the most recent firmware update to the Nvidia Shield . Maybe that hot fix could help. I will look back in this thread to find the info.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> That is strange you should definitely be able to use Frame Interpolation with 4K Enhancement set to off and the projector receiving a 1920 x 1080 signal. I
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I tried setting both the Xfinity box and Shield to 1080p, and Frame Interpolation is still grayed out on both. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kris Kieffer said:


> I've tried EDID both ways. Shield is set at [email protected] he currently, but it was on the recommended setting of [email protected] 59.94?


https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...&ranSiteID=je6NUbpObpQ-qD5IJ2MqFLtjVbAGWxa0Uw


I won't claim to know too much about the Nvidia Shield issues but @ckronengold does as does @biglen. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



IslaTurbine said:


> Which HDMI cables are people having success with for lengths of 25'? I'm finishing out my theater room and plan to run some HDMI through a wall and a ceiling prior to drywall. I want to make sure I use something that the 5050/6050 seem to get along with. (I haven't bought the projector yet...waiting till Black Friday)...
> 
> *EDIT* typed 20 but meant 25'



I had some random handshake issues with various sources when I was using a fiber optic cables which went away when I switched to this Blue Jeans “Active” HDMI cable:

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/series3a.htm


----------



## biglen

Kris Kieffer said:


> Yes, plugged the Shield directly to the projector and it still won't let me stream 4k


How long of a cable is it? Is it a quality high speed HDMI cable?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I tried setting both the Xfinity box and Shield to 1080p, and Frame Interpolation is still grayed out on both.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I don't know what could cause the FI to be grayed out other than the settings we went over and FI is also grayed out when the projector thinks it is receiving a 3D signal. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kris Kieffer

biglen said:


> Kris Kieffer said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, plugged the Shield directly to the projector and it still won't let me stream 4k
> 
> 
> 
> How long of a cable is it? Is it a quality high speed HDMI cable?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Well the house was pre-wired with an HDMI w/ethernet cable. But I just spent $95 on a fiber optic HDMI just to see if there was a difference but it did nothing.


----------



## Kris Kieffer

[/quote]https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforc...&ranSiteID=je6NUbpObpQ-qD5IJ2MqFLtjVbAGWxa0Uw


I won't claim to know too much about the Nvidia Shield issues but @ckronengold does as does @biglen. 

But it won't work from the app on my blu-ray player either.


----------



## biglen

I just ran the Shield directly to the Projector. I set the Shield to 1080p, 4k Enhancement off, and Frame Interpolation is still grayed out. 









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> I just ran the Shield directly to the Projector. I set the Shield to 1080p, 4k Enhancement off, and Frame Interpolation is still grayed out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My understanding is that the Epson 5050/6050 needs a 1080p/24hz signal for FI to have functionality. It won't work on 4K or HDR content, and the 'Image Processing' must be set to 'Fine', so you would have to make sure to turn off the 4K enhancement feature.


----------



## sddawson

biglen said:


> He just seemed like a good candidate since his walls were already gray. I like the painted screen, because I never have to worry about black bars on widescreen or 16x9 content. The idea of putting masks up and taking them down to cover the screen for different content, gave me the incentive to put the work into the painted screen. There's benefits to both though.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I'm interested - why don't you have to worry about black bars with a painted screen? When you project a scope movie, aren't the letterbox bars projected on to the wall?


----------



## rjguk

escapeyourmind said:


> All the content I have been playing has been 4k movies, so it sounds like if there is anymore sharpness to be had it is likely from the surface. I'm going to look into painting or possibly just getting a cheap-ish silverticket screen and seeing how that goes. I attached some photos of both the room setup, some of the sharpness up close, and some of 4k movies playing. It is during the day right now so it is more ambient light than normal. I may just be too picky coming from oled because the images of the movies from my phone look good.
> 
> 
> 
> I like a large image and I would say I am probably 90%+ film, maybe some netflix here and there. So I was thinking of getting the largest 16:9 screen I can for the size room I have. I just zoomed all the way out and measured and the largest 16:9 image I can project is 71x126" and a 10' seating distance. So it would make sense if I were to paint I would just measure that out and prep/paint in that area. If I were to go with a screen and didn't go custom sizing, I would probably have to go with a 135" (66x118) and zoom it a little, but would prefer it larger.



It looks to me like the panel convergence is way out, which leads to the coloured fringes. If you've already done it then maybe its as good as it is going to get, but persevering with the alignment can give a real improvement in sharpness.
Do the whole panel first, then you can do various other specific points in turn. Always worth taking some time on this.


----------



## biglen

sddawson said:


> I'm interested - why don't you have to worry about black bars with a painted screen? When you project a scope movie, aren't the letterbox bars projected on to the wall?


If you paint the entire wall, like I did, the bars just blend right into the screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> My understanding is that the Epson 5050/6050 needs a 1080p/24hz signal for FI to have functionality. It won't work on 4K or HDR content, and the 'Image Processing' must be set to 'Fine', so you would have to make sure to turn off the 4K enhancement feature.


That's not true. Take a look at skylarlove1999's screenshot of his settings. He's set at 1080p/59.94Hz, and it's not grayed out for him. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> That's not true. Take a look at skylarlove1999's screenshot of his settings. He's set at 1080p/59.94Hz, and it's not grayed out for him.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


The EPSON faqs do say it should be greyed out but they has not been my experience. I will test again today but even Epson isn't right 100% of the time.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> The EPSON faqs do say it should be greyed out but they has not been my experience. I will test again today but even Epson isn't right 100% of the time.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


It should be grayed out when? Everything but 24Hz?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> It should be grayed out when? Everything but 24Hz?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Supposedly yes. 1080p/24HZ would be the only time you could use frame Interpolation but like I said I will verify 1080p/60HZ with FI today.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Keith AP

biglen said:


> It should be grayed out when? Everything but 24Hz?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 Long shot if I'm reading it correctly, page 88 of the manual there is a chart that implies FI does not function if Image Processing is set to 'Fast' mode. What do you see in your 'Signal/Advanced/Image Processing' menu?


----------



## escapeyourmind

rjguk said:


> It looks to me like the panel convergence is way out, which leads to the coloured fringes. If you've already done it then maybe its as good as it is going to get, but persevering with the alignment can give a real improvement in sharpness.
> Do the whole panel first, then you can do various other specific points in turn. Always worth taking some time on this.


I believe I have done that already but I will try again. I'm assuming I am trying to get it as perfectly white as possible with as little fringes.


----------



## biglen

Keith AP said:


> Long shot if I'm reading it correctly, page 88 of the manual there is a chart that implies FI does not function if Image Processing is set to 'Fast' mode. What do you see in your 'Signal/Advanced/Image Processing' menu?


Not sure. I'll check when I get home from work. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rjguk

escapeyourmind said:


> I believe I have done that already but I will try again. I'm assuming I am trying to get it as perfectly white as possible with as little fringes.



...and make sure you save the result at the end.


On mine (earlier model, 7300) it took several goes before I felt like it was right. You are unlikely to get the R, G and B to superimpose absolutely exactly, so a 'least worse' approach works. It also allows you to reset it and start the alignment again if required.
There will be a little bit of purple fringing from the lens itself.


----------



## MississippiMan

jeahrens said:


> Pillarboxing on a scope screen for material 16:9 or wider is NOT lit by the panel. Letterboxing on a 16:9 screen is. So no they aren't the same. The former is not lighting up screen area with "black" pixels where the latter is. Unmasked letterboxing will impact perceived contrast, unmasked pillarboxing won't. Unless the Epson x050 series has a lot of light leakage that spills onto the pillarbox areas, then you would see image issues with the unmasked, unused pillarbox areas. I can't comment on leakage as the 5050 I saw was shooting onto a 16:9 screen.


You don't seem to understand what I was pecifically saying. 

The Projector IS projecting "white" light into the Masked areas (Pillarboxed areas), but that area is being blocked by the mask. I stated that indeed, it is the intruding light into the Panel masked area that creates the lighter appearance. Virtually ALL projectors suffer from such...including the 5050. Only JVC has taken great pains to *virtually* eliminate that issue, and that ability to do so is specifically an offshoot of the same edge masking they employ on their LyCos panels to obtain the Contrast specifications they have. 



> No matter what area you paint it has a finite length/width. I personally would define that. Frame it for it looks and mask it for contrast depending on the AR you ultimately end up with.


So there it is, really. Your expressing your own personal choice, not what is possible by going another, less complicated and more innately adjustable route. That is your choice to make...of course.



> As I said above, not against painting a screen at all. However to get your seating and screen sized, you do need to make some decisions around hard dimensions. This is what I usually recommend for AR decisions:
> 
> 80% TV or video game usage - Big TV 16:9 screen
> 50/50 TV and game/Film - 2.00:1
> 80% film - 2.35:1
> 
> If you want to size for that 1% of IMAX content out there then you are looking at a big 16:9 screen and a very close seating distance.


So why then is not having complete freedom is determining exactly what size image is right for any given situation or Format choice not a decided advantage?



> The average viewer sits about 2-3 times the height of their screen based on our average vertical immersion tolerances. Meaning for a 50" tall screen we would be 100-150" back from the screen. This is regardless of the screen AR (we run out of vertical FOV far quicker than horizontal). IMAX wants 1.5x as part of it's design is to exceed the viewers vertical field of view. So 75" from the 50" tall screen.


Most of which you relate is based on Old School thinking and values. There is no longer a valid "Average User" designation....especially in the current Home Theater Front Projection genre. Today, a 1:1 screen width to seating distance ratios are far more common when 4K / Eshift /HD images are being watched. But again...that all falls into the "personal preference" category, not "out of necessity" because resolution and/or Screen artifacts make any such decision a mandatory one.

Vertical Immersion Tolerance levels are wholly dependent upon actual image placement. Those who have multiple rows of seating must indeed address such VIT limitations...at least as far as the Front Row viewing situation is concerned. But I've seen that most all those who aspire to really large screens are not in multi-row situations where they have that issue. Many if not most all place the bottom of the screen much lower to accommodate the taller image of a 16:9 or IMAX image. Or....the room itself has tall enough ceilings to accommodate both a Stadium Seating approach and a higher image placement, because the Screen size / height to seating arrangement is mitigated by keeping seating distances in balance with image height as relates viewing over the forward seating.

I'm not nearly as rooted in conventional thinking as you seem to be. I advocate a FP Enthusiast having more all-around freedom of choice than any fixed Format application can provide. While painting a Wall Screen might not be on everyone's slate, it is becoming more and more applicable...and if they are informed of that possibility and how basically easily done it can be, then a great many embrace the concept.


----------



## sddawson

biglen said:


> If you paint the entire wall, like I did, the bars just blend right into the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


So the bars are really black? Might that be because your “screen” isn’t white, but a grey colour?


----------



## escapeyourmind

rjguk said:


> ...and make sure you save the result at the end.
> 
> 
> On mine (earlier model, 7300) it took several goes before I felt like it was right. You are unlikely to get the R, G and B to superimpose absolutely exactly, so a 'least worse' approach works. It also allows you to reset it and start the alignment again if required.
> There will be a little bit of purple fringing from the lens itself.


Good to know, and thanks for the info! I hope I didn't do something dumb like not save it after setting it the first time lol. But I'll try again later today to get it as close as possible.


----------



## MississippiMan

sddawson said:


> So the bars are really black? Might that be because your “screen” isn’t white, but a grey colour?



Interjecting.......


That is exactly why....the darker screen Color attenuates what small amount of viewable light there is contained within the Bars, but not at the expense of dulling Whites and Colors. It's a "Win-Win".


So OK...there is a bit too much discussion about DIY'ing screens going on, and it's misdirecting the intent of this Thread...which is certainly not my intention...although such could be easily implied by my decided interest...bordering on bias for such applications. So off I go....unless I am specifically tagged to respond.


----------



## sddawson

MississippiMan said:


> Interjecting.......
> 
> 
> That is exactly why....the darker screen Color attenuates what small amount of viewable light there is contained within the Bars, but not at the expense of dulling Whites and Colors. It's a "Win-Win".


I guess one could use a grey screen to accomplish something similar then?


----------



## MississippiMan

sddawson said:


> I guess one could use a grey screen to accomplish something similar then?



To most extent yes...although a poor choice of such can & will impact image quality across several fronts that are more critical than just absolving the "not so Black Bar" issue.


----------



## escapeyourmind

MississippiMan said:


> You don't seem to understand what I was pecifically saying.
> 
> The Projector IS projecting "white" light into the Masked areas (Pillarboxed areas), but that area is being blocked by the mask. I stated that indeed, it is the intruding light into the Panel masked area that creates the lighter appearance. Virtually ALL projectors suffer from such...including the 5050. Only JVC has taken great pains to *virtually* eliminate that issue, and that ability to do so is specifically an offshoot of the same edge masking they employ on their LyCos panels to obtain the Contrast specifications they have.
> 
> So there it is, really. Your expressing your own personal choice, not what is possible by going another, less complicated and more innately adjustable route. That is your choice to make...of course.
> 
> 
> So why then is not having complete freedom is determining exactly what size image is right for any given situation or Format choice not a decided advantage?
> 
> 
> Most of which you relate is based on Old School thinking and values. There is no longer a valid "Average User" designation....especially in the current Home Theater Front Projection genre. Today, a 1:1 screen width to seating distance ratios are far more common when 4K / Eshift /HD images are being watched. But again...that all falls into the "personal preference" category, not "out of necessity" because resolution and/or Screen artifacts make any such decision a mandatory one.
> 
> Vertical Immersion Tolerance levels are wholly dependent upon actual image placement. Those who have multiple rows of seating must indeed address such VIT limitations...at least as far as the Front Row viewing situation is concerned. But I've seen that most all those who aspire to really large screens are not in multi-row situations where they have that issue. Many if not most all place the bottom of the screen much lower to accommodate the taller image of a 16:9 or IMAX image. Or....the room itself has tall enough ceilings to accommodate both a Stadium Seating approach and a higher image placement, because the Screen size / height to seating arrangement is mitigated by keeping seating distances in balance with image height as relates viewing over the forward seating.
> 
> I'm not nearly as rooted in conventional thinking as you seem to be. I advocate a FP Enthusiast having more all-around freedom of choice than any fixed Format application can provide. While painting a Wall Screen might not be on everyone's slate, it is becoming more and more applicable...and if they are informed of that possibility and how basically easily done it can be, then a great many embrace the concept.



I had been all set to just get a 135" screen, and then I decided to tape out what that would look like and compare that to the max size I had been using (~144"). I spent a lot of time last night watching various scenes from movies and zooming in and out over and over again. Both are big for a ~10-11' seating distance, but some scenes just don't have the same impact at 135 that they do at 144. I just don't know if I could settle for 135" anymore. Which leaves me stuck as no one really makes a 144".

So that leaves me with the only options of, a diy screen, painting a section of the wall, or buying the 150" screen and masking it down as needed. Projecting onto my gray walls right now I still see the letterbox as a faint gray so I'm worried even painting I would need to tape up some masking on the wall. And with a 150" screen I'd have to add a bunch of masking and it may not look great on the wall.

I will say that I am loving the ability to zoom on the 5050ub, though it probably makes these decisions more difficult because it is so flexible lol.

edit: As mentioned above this is getting too off topic for this thread, so I won't make further screen comments here and move to a new screen thread if necessary.


----------



## skylarlove1999

escapeyourmind said:


> I had been all set to just get a 135" screen, and then I decided to tape out what that would look like and compare that to the max size I had been using (~144"). I spent a lot of time last night watching various scenes from movies and zooming in and out over and over again. Both are big for a ~10-11' seating distance, but some scenes just don't have the same impact at 135 that they do at 144. I just don't know if I could settle for 135" anymore. Which leaves me stuck as no one really makes a 144".
> 
> 
> 
> So that leaves me with the only options of, a diy screen, painting a section of the wall, or buying the 150" screen and masking it down as needed. Projecting onto my gray walls right now I still see the letterbox as a faint gray so I'm worried even painting I would need to tape up some masking on the wall. And with a 150" screen I'd have to add a bunch of masking and it may not look great on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> I will say that I am loving the ability to zoom on the 5050ub, though it probably makes these decisions more difficult because it is so flexible lol.
> 
> 
> 
> edit: As mentioned above this is getting too off topic for this thread, so I won't make further screen comments here and move to a new screen thread if necessary.


Seymour screens can and will make you a custom size screen and manual masking panels for a very reasonable price IMHO or you can just order the screen material and DIY with frame materials of your choice. You could also buy a custom frame from Jamestown and screen material from Seymour. And then make your own masking panels.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

skylarlove1999 said:


> Seymour screens can and will make you a custom size screen and manual masking panels for a very reasonable price IMHO or you can just order the screen material and DIY with frame materials of your choice. You could also buy a custom frame from Jamestown and screen material from Seymour. And then make your own masking panels.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Last I read Jamestown threw in the towel and is no longer in business do to illness.


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Not sure. I'll check when I get home from work.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Most interested in the your settings not displayed on the Projector Info screen. The fact that your FI is not grayed out with a 1080P/60hz signal implies that there is a setting that Epson's FAQs on Frame Interpolation has not considered or of which they are unaware. If that's the case, then perhaps an email to Epson's Customer Support to correct their oversight would be helpful to the Epson PJ community.


----------



## MississippiMan

rekbones said:


> Last I read Jamestown threw in the towel and is no longer in business do to illness.



That is unfortunately true.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Most interested in the your settings not displayed on the Projector Info screen. The fact that your FI is not grayed out with a 1080P/60hz signal implies that there is a setting that Epson's FAQs on Frame Interpolation has not considered or of which they are unaware. If that's the case, then perhaps an email to Epson's Customer Support to correct their oversight would be helpful to the Epson PJ community.


It IS grayed out with 1080p/60Hz signal. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rekbones said:


> Last I read Jamestown threw in the towel and is no longer in business do to illness.


So sad to hear that. I was wondering why the website was down

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

Kris Kieffer said:


> Ok, extremely new to the projector game and I'm sure this has been covered...but why can't I stream any 4k movies from Vudu or Fandangonow? I have an Epson 6050 and a Denon 6500. Every time I try to rent a movie in 4k it's basically telling me that my setup is not 4k compatible. I can watch youtube videos and check the stats and it shows I'm watching 4k. I'm sure it's something in the settings on one or both of the devices. Anybody else able to stream with either of these?
> 
> Oh and I'm using an Nvidia Shield, FireTV 4K, and a Sony UBP X800 ultra HD player.


Its the Shield. They broke it with the update. Gotta wait it out. 
https://9to5google.com/2019/09/09/nvidia-shield-tv-4k-broken-issue/

"Nvidia Shield TV update broke 4K streaming w/ some apps, Vudu disabled for now"


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Its the Shield. They broke it with the update. Gotta wait it out.
> 
> https://9to5google.com/2019/09/09/nvidia-shield-tv-4k-broken-issue/
> 
> 
> 
> "Nvidia Shield TV update broke 4K streaming w/ some apps, Vudu disabled for now"


As always I am very grateful for you to weigh in on any Nvidia Shield issues. You have been beyond helpful and a great resource even though I don't own one in answering other owners questions about their Shield thanks again.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

escapeyourmind said:


> I like a large image and I would say I am probably 90%+ film, maybe some netflix here and there. So I was thinking of getting the largest 16:9 screen I can for the size room I have. I just zoomed all the way out and measured and the largest 16:9 image I can project is 71x126" and a 10' seating distance. So it would make sense if I were to paint I would just measure that out and prep/paint in that area. If I were to go with a screen and didn't go custom sizing, I would probably have to go with a 135" (66x118) and zoom it a little, but would prefer it larger.


The problem is setting your vertical field of view around 16:9 means that the wider the AR of the film the smaller it gets. Which is in complete opposition of the directors intent. The largest content you will experience will be TV, the smallest a scope epic like Lord of the Rings or Raiders of the Lost Ark. 

Also projecting the largest image you can is going impact how HDR looks. If your viewing is 90% film I would suggest a 130" 2.35:1 screen (120x51"). You can maintain the same vertical immersion of the 135" 16:9 screen by adjusting your seating accordingly. If you are 10' (120") from a 66" tall screen that would give you a seating distance to screen height ratio of 1.8 (rather close). To maintain the exact same perceived image height on the scope screen you apply that same ratio to its height. So 1.8 * 51" = 93" or ~8'. What that does is keep 16:9 content filling the exact same amount of your vertical field of view while allowing wider and wider AR material to encompass more of your horizontal field of view (instead of continually shrinking to fill less and less). A scope film will have 75% more visual area in this setup vs. the 16:9 screen and 16:9 material will be unchanged.


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> It IS grayed out with 1080p/60Hz signal.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I am able to use Frame Interpolation with 1080P/60HZ signal using my Roku Ultra watching YouTube TV. I even set it to HIGH to make sure my FI was engaged. I could really see the soap opera effect. So it is working. I sent an email to my contact at Epson to confirm why I am having a different experience and whether or not the 5050 and 6050 have any differences in their capabilities in this area. I highly doubt they would. 

My guess is the manual was just copying and pasting that section from the 5040 and someone forgot to update it to 1080P/60HZ for the 5050 since with the upgrade to 18GBPS for the 5050 it made 60Hz capable. 

I hope another owner can confirm they can use frame Interpolation with a 1080P/60HZ signal with 4k enhancement set to off.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

MississippiMan said:


> You don't seem to understand what I was pecifically saying.
> 
> The Projector IS projecting "white" light into the Masked areas (Pillarboxed areas), but that area is being blocked by the mask. I stated that indeed, it is the intruding light into the Panel masked area that creates the lighter appearance. Virtually ALL projectors suffer from such...including the 5050. Only JVC has taken great pains to *virtually* eliminate that issue, and that ability to do so is specifically an offshoot of the same edge masking they employ on their LyCos panels to obtain the Contrast specifications they have.
> 
> So there it is, really. Your expressing your own personal choice, not what is possible by going another, less complicated and more innately adjustable route. That is your choice to make...of course.


So you're saying that light leakage is the issue with the 5050. Fair enough. My statement that this isn't being lit by the panel is still accurate. The 5050 I saw was using a 16:9 screen so it wasn't possible to ascertain this.




MississippiMan said:


> So why then is not having complete freedom is determining exactly what size image is right for any given situation or Format choice not a decided advantage?
> 
> 
> Most of which you relate is based on Old School thinking and values. There is no longer a valid "Average User" designation....especially in the current Home Theater Front Projection genre. Today, a 1:1 screen width to seating distance ratios are far more common when 4K / Eshift /HD images are being watched. But again...that all falls into the "personal preference" category, not "out of necessity" because resolution and/or Screen artifacts make any such decision a mandatory one.
> 
> Vertical Immersion Tolerance levels are wholly dependent upon actual image placement. Those who have multiple rows of seating must indeed address such VIT limitations...at least as far as the Front Row viewing situation is concerned. But I've seen that most all those who aspire to really large screens are not in multi-row situations where they have that issue. Many if not most all place the bottom of the screen much lower to accommodate the taller image of a 16:9 or IMAX image. Or....the room itself has tall enough ceilings to accommodate both a Stadium Seating approach and a higher image placement, because the Screen size / height to seating arrangement is mitigated by keeping seating distances in balance with image height as relates viewing over the forward seating.
> 
> I'm not nearly as rooted in conventional thinking as you seem to be. I advocate a FP Enthusiast having more all-around freedom of choice than any fixed Format application can provide. While painting a Wall Screen might not be on everyone's slate, it is becoming more and more applicable...and if they are informed of that possibility and how basically easily done it can be, then a great many embrace the concept.


It's not old school thinking at all. In fact basing your viewing ratio around width is a 16:9 mindset. No, not everyone is made the same, but as a general rule we run out of height far faster than width. No matter how different we are, we are going to have a comfortable vertical immersion threshold regardless of what AR we paint the screen to or buy it in. And this is screen/seating ratio is where you start. Doesn't matter if you paint the wall and move seating to where it's comfortable or you setup a chair and tape screen outline on the wall to fill your comfortable vertical immersion. In both cases you are finding YOUR vertical immersion threshold. Now how you decide to use that threshold is entirely up to you. You can end up with a lot of different ARs. However the content AR is fixed. Choosing a narrower AR when you're primary viewing is film means you will be at odds with the material you primarily view.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kris Kieffer said:


> Ok, extremely new to the projector game and I'm sure this has been covered...but why can't I stream any 4k movies from Vudu or Fandangonow? I have an Epson 6050 and a Denon 6500. Every time I try to rent a movie in 4k it's basically telling me that my setup is not 4k compatible. I can watch youtube videos and check the stats and it shows I'm watching 4k. I'm sure it's something in the settings on one or both of the devices. Anybody else able to stream with either of these?
> 
> Oh and I'm using an Nvidia Shield, FireTV 4K, and a Sony UBP X800 ultra HD player.


https://9to5google.com/2019/09/09/nvidia-shield-tv-4k-broken-issue/

Vudu has disabled UHD movies temporarily on the Nvidia Shield on the Vudu app. The Nvidia Shield had a recent update that broke UHD movie viewing on Vudu.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

fredworld said:


> Most interested in the your settings not displayed on the Projector Info screen. The fact that your FI is not grayed out with a 1080P/60hz signal implies that there is a setting that Epson's FAQs on Frame Interpolation has not considered or of which they are unaware. If that's the case, then perhaps an email to Epson's Customer Support to correct their oversight would be helpful to the Epson PJ community.


I sent an email to my product support manager at Epson. I will let you know what he says. But I definitely can use FI with 1080P/60HZ signal. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

I'm almost there with you, fellas. Just need to get rid of this dumb fan. I'm upgrading from a 5040 that I've had for 3 years worh no issues.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## vidwiz

escapeyourmind said:


> I had been all set to just get a 135" screen, and then I decided to tape out what that would look like and compare that to the max size I had been using (~144"). I spent a lot of time last night watching various scenes from movies and zooming in and out over and over again. Both are big for a ~10-11' seating distance, but some scenes just don't have the same impact at 135 that they do at 144. I just don't know if I could settle for 135" anymore. Which leaves me stuck as no one really makes a 144".
> 
> So that leaves me with the only options of, a diy screen, painting a section of the wall, or buying the 150" screen and masking it down as needed. Projecting onto my gray walls right now I still see the letterbox as a faint gray so I'm worried even painting I would need to tape up some masking on the wall. And with a 150" screen I'd have to add a bunch of masking and it may not look great on the wall.
> 
> I will say that I am loving the ability to zoom on the 5050ub, though it probably makes these decisions more difficult because it is so flexible lol.
> 
> edit: As mentioned above this is getting too off topic for this thread, so I won't make further screen comments here and move to a new screen thread if necessary.


I just bought a 144. Assuming you are talking about 16:9:

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Proj...er+ticket+144&qid=1568144565&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I'm pretty darn pleased with mine. It's for outdoor but I hung it in my LR. They had some closeouts even cheaper direct from manufacturer (different model) but I opted for Amazon for return policy and this model has improved hinges which I actually had a problem still with one but was able to fix it. Material has some light wrinkles but cant see them at all at night. Daytime viewing I can just make them out. I think the price is fantastic.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rupedogg24 said:


> I'm almost there with you, fellas. Just need to get rid of this dumb fan. I'm upgrading from a 5040 that I've had for 3 years worh no issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Sounds good . I think you will appreciate all the 5050 can do.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



skylarlove1999 said:


> Supposedly yes. 1080p/24HZ would be the only time you could use frame Interpolation but like I said I will verify 1080p/60HZ with FI today.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Silly question: Is everyone who’s having these difficulties on the latest firmware? 

I believe that it addresses some of the frame interpolation issues…


----------



## fredworld

Kelvin1000 said:


> Silly question: Is everyone who’s having these difficulties on the latest firmware?
> 
> I believe that it addresses some of the frame interpolation issues…


Mine is FW vers. 1.01. Epson told me back on July 29 that I have the latest firmware. But I'm not having any issues. The PJ operates just as Epson says it should. FWIW, Epson also told me that FI can't be enabled on 4K/HDR content because it's a limitation of the projector's hardware. The chipset doesn't support it, so a firmware update can't add that type of feature but it's something they might add in 4-5 years in subsequent models.


----------



## biglen

Kelvin1000 said:


> Silly question: Is everyone who’s having these difficulties on the latest firmware?
> 
> I believe that it addresses some of the frame interpolation issues…


I'm on 1.01

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I'm on 1.01
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


So am I

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

DunMunro said:


> Here's the first part of the TVSPro blog article:
> 
> https://www.tvspecialists.com/jvc-dla-nx7-vs-epson-pro-cinema-6050ub-vs-tvs-pro-theo-z65-part-i/


And here's the 2nd part:

https://www.tvspecialists.com/jvc-dla-nx7-vs-epson-pro-cinema-6050ub-vs-tvs-pro-theo-z65-part-ii


----------



## biglen

Keith AP said:


> Long shot if I'm reading it correctly, page 88 of the manual there is a chart that implies FI does not function if Image Processing is set to 'Fast' mode. What do you see in your 'Signal/Advanced/Image Processing' menu?


I switched Image Processing to Fine, and now Frame Interpolation is not grayed out, and I can adjust it. I have both my Nvidia Shield and Xfinity 4k box, set to 1080p/60Hz. Thanks for that info !

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kris Kieffer

Its the Shield. They broke it with the update. Gotta wait it out.
[url said:


> https://9to5google.com/2019/09/09/nvidia-shield-tv-4k-broken-issue/[/url]
> 
> "Nvidia Shield TV update broke 4K streaming w/ some apps, Vudu disabled for now"


Thanks! I've been racking my brain trying to figure it out. I tried it on my Sony 4k blu-ray player but I'm guessing it's not a supported device by Vudu. Might have to buy a Roku...


----------



## jorisdriesen

Hey guys,

I don't wanna read through 111 pages and the search function is not giving me relevant results, so here goes. I currently have an Optoma UHD65 which I'm happy with, but ofcourse we all want the best for the budget we have, and I'm suspecting that the general consensus is that the Epson 6050 (TW9400 in Europe) has (much) better black levels, contrast and colors than my UHD65, while having a negligible difference in sharpness.

Do you know of direct comparisons or other usefull reviews to make my choice easier ? I'm also looking for a shop to do a live comparison. Thanks.


----------



## fredworld

jorisdriesen said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I don't wanna read through 111 pages and the search function is not giving me relevant results, so here goes. I currently have an Optoma UHD65 which I'm happy with, but ofcourse we all want the best for the budget we have, and I'm suspecting that the general consensus is that the Epson 6050 (TW9400 in Europe) has (much) better black levels, contrast and colors than my UHD65, while having a negligible difference in sharpness.
> 
> Do you know of direct comparisons or other usefull reviews to make my choice easier ? I'm also looking for a shop to do a live comparison. Thanks.



I'm unable to help identify European dealers for a comparison but I can provide a number of reviews that might assist you in making an informed decision.


This Epson 5040 vs Optoma UHD65 review is the closest I found to address your desired comparison.
Other review sources are below. You might already be aware that the 6050 and 5050 are very close siblings. The reviews detail the differences the consumer gets for the extra $1000 for the 6050.

Epson 6050UB review
Epson 5050UB review
Epson 5050UB review by Art Feierman - Part 1
Epson 5050UB Review by Art Feierman - Part 2
Epson 5050UBe Review



I upgraded to the 5050UB after spending 15 years with a Sharp XV12000U 720P unit, which itself was an upgrade to an Ampro 480i CRT projector, so I'm not in a position to address what differences you should expect going from a native 4K projector to a pixel shifter. Perhaps some one else can provide more concrete guidance. Good luck.


----------



## ckronengold

biglen said:


> I switched Image Processing to Fine, and now Frame Interpolation is not grayed out, and I can adjust it. I have both my Nvidia Shield and Xfinity 4k box, set to 1080p/60Hz. Thanks for that info !


Now that you can change the setting......what do you see? Don't leave us hanging like that! We can't take it!


----------



## ckronengold

rupedogg24 said:


> I'm almost there with you, fellas. Just need to get rid of this dumb fan. I'm upgrading from a 5040 that I've had for 3 years worh no issues.


Welcome to the club! So how was the fan not in the way of the 5040? Just curious .


----------



## ckronengold

rupedogg24 said:


> I'm almost there with you, fellas. Just need to get rid of this dumb fan. I'm upgrading from a 5040 that I've had for 3 years worh no issues.


Welcome to the club! The fan wasn't in the way of the 5040? Just curious.


----------



## rupedogg24

ckronengold said:


> Welcome to the club! So how was the fan not in the way of the 5040? Just curious .


New house new room.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

rupedogg24 said:


> New house new room.


In that case, congratulations on your new house AND your new projector!


----------



## skylarlove1999

rupedogg24 said:


> New house new room.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I would have to remove that fan before hanging my 5040. Nobody puts baby in the corner. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

jorisdriesen said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I don't wanna read through 111 pages and the search function is not giving me relevant results, so here goes. I currently have an Optoma UHD65 which I'm happy with, but ofcourse we all want the best for the budget we have, and I'm suspecting that the general consensus is that the Epson 6050 (TW9400 in Europe) has (much) better black levels, contrast and colors than my UHD65, while having a negligible difference in sharpness.
> 
> Do you know of direct comparisons or other usefull reviews to make my choice easier ? I'm also looking for a shop to do a live comparison. Thanks.


Here's some video comparisons:











(HC5040 vs UHD65):






although not directly between the UHD65 and the HC5050.


----------



## skylarlove1999

fredworld said:


> I'm unable to help identify European dealers for a comparison but I can provide a number of reviews that might assist you in making an informed decision.
> 
> 
> This Epson 5040 vs Optoma UHD65 review is the closest I found to address your desired comparison.
> Other review sources are below. You might already be aware that the 6050 and 5050 are very close siblings. The reviews detail the differences the consumer gets for the extra $1000 for the 6050.
> 
> Epson 6050UB review
> Epson 5050UB review
> Epson 5050UB review by Art Feierman - Part 1
> Epson 5050UB Review by Art Feierman - Part 2
> Epson 5050UBe Review
> 
> 
> 
> I upgraded to the 5050UB after spending 15 years with a Sharp XV12000U 720P unit, which itself was an upgrade to an Ampro 480i CRT projector, so I'm not in a position to address what differences you should expect going from a native 4K projector to a pixel shifter. Perhaps some one else can provide more concrete guidance. Good luck.[/quote @fredworld you are a gentleman and a scholar. I am not sure many of us would have put all that work and time in for someone who clearly stated he was unwilling to put in the work himself. I am all for helping someone as long as I know they are willing to work as hard as I am. If they are not than I have to assume they didn't really want it that bad.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## sirius_basterd

Was there a conclusion on how to reduce the blackout time when turning on / switching sources? I am buying a new receiver so I want to make sure I get one that will minimize the problem - any recommendations for a 5.1.2 receiver? I am using Klipsch RB-61 II Reference Series bookshelf speakers and some small speakers for surrounds, may upgrade to Atmos in the future.


----------



## jorisdriesen

Hey guys,

thanks but indeed I've seen literally all comparisons between the UHD65 and the 5040/6040 before I purchased the UHD65, because it came out as a slight winner (a.o. because of the frame interpolation at 4K HDR and the slightly better sharpness). 

I also see now reviews of the 5050/6050 and people seem to think it's an awesome projector, and referring a lot to black levels, contrast and color. So I was wondering if this pushes the 5050/6050 over the UHD65, and my feeling says yes, but I would like to have that confirmed with objective reviews or at least a live comparison. I think I found a place in the Netherlands, which is about 1,5 hours away, so that's cool.

But would love to hear people's own experiences if they are there. Thanks again.

*edit* it's this sentence that made me go for the UHD65: "If top quality HDR is at the top of your priority list, in short, the UHD65 beats the HC 5040UB hands down."


----------



## jeahrens

jorisdriesen said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> thanks but indeed I've seen literally all comparisons between the UHD65 and the 5040/6040 before I purchased the UHD65, because it came out as a slight winner (a.o. because of the frame interpolation at 4K HDR and the slightly better sharpness).
> 
> I also see now reviews of the 5050/6050 and people seem to think it's an awesome projector, and referring a lot to black levels, contrast and color. So I was wondering if this pushes the 5050/6050 over the UHD65, and my feeling says yes, but I would like to have that confirmed with objective reviews or at least a live comparison. I think I found a place in the Netherlands, which is about 1,5 hours away, so that's cool.
> 
> But would love to hear people's own experiences if they are there. Thanks again.
> 
> *edit* it's this sentence that made me go for the UHD65: "If top quality HDR is at the top of your priority list, in short, the UHD65 beats the HC 5040UB hands down."


I'd question heavily any review putting the UHD65 near, let alone ahead of the Epson. I've seen that unit and a UHD60 and the Epson offers a far better picture to either due it's superior contrast and image depth. A room full of AVS members were present for the UHD60 demo (a movie day put on by the owner) and none would have picked it over the Epson. The two XPR DLPs I've seen did both have excellent sharpness and resolution. Motion was also good. But otherwise neither were close to Epson in overall picture quality. The very poor contrast performance simply makes any scene that isn't bright a washed out, flat and unappealing experience.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> I'd question heavily any review putting the UHD65 near, let alone ahead of the Epson. I've seen that unit and a UHD60 and the Epson offers a far better picture to either due it's superior contrast and image depth. A room full of AVS members were present for the UHD60 demo (a movie day put on by the owner) and none would have picked it over the Epson. The two XPR DLPs I've seen did both have excellent sharpness and resolution. Motion was also good. But otherwise neither were close to Epson in overall picture quality. The very poor contrast performance simply makes any scene that isn't bright a washed out, flat and unappealing experience.


+1 keeping in mind my bias towards Epson projectors since a 6050 currently adorns my theater.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

jeahrens said:


> I'd question heavily any review putting the UHD65 near, let alone ahead of the Epson. I've seen that unit and a UHD60 and the Epson offers a far better picture to either due it's superior contrast and image depth. A room full of AVS members were present for the UHD60 demo (a movie day put on by the owner) and none would have picked it over the Epson. The two XPR DLPs I've seen did both have excellent sharpness and resolution. Motion was also good. But otherwise neither were close to Epson in overall picture quality. The very poor contrast performance simply makes any scene that isn't bright a washed out, flat and unappealing experience.


It was from the review on ProjectorCentral, and I'm seeing similar comments on the forum here. I'm not a fanboy for my UHD65, just would like some feedback on the comparison with the new Epson 5050/6050. I had an extremely good deal on my UHD65, so if I can sell it for what it's still worth, I don't need to pay a lot extra to get the 5050.

What worries me most is the lack of frame interpolation in 4K on the 5050. How big of an issue is that ? Must have been discussed here, right ?


----------



## fredworld

skylarlove1999 said:


> fredworld said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm unable to help identify European dealers for a comparison but I can provide a number of reviews that might assist you in making an informed decision.
> 
> 
> This Epson 5040 vs Optoma UHD65 review is the closest I found to address your desired comparison.
> Other review sources are below. You might already be aware that the 6050 and 5050 are very close siblings. The reviews detail the differences the consumer gets for the extra $1000 for the 6050.
> 
> Epson 6050UB review
> Epson 5050UB review
> Epson 5050UB review by Art Feierman - Part 1
> Epson 5050UB Review by Art Feierman - Part 2
> Epson 5050UBe Review
> 
> 
> 
> I upgraded to the 5050UB after spending 15 years with a Sharp XV12000U 720P unit, which itself was an upgrade to an Ampro 480i CRT projector, so I'm not in a position to address what differences you should expect going from a native 4K projector to a pixel shifter. Perhaps some one else can provide more concrete guidance. Good luck.[/quote @fredworld you are a gentleman and a scholar. I am not sure many of us would have put all that work and time in for someone who clearly stated he was unwilling to put in the work himself. I am all for helping someone as long as I know they are willing to work as hard as I am. If they are not than I have to assume they didn't really want it that bad.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the support but I really didn't mind posting the info. I had the reviews bookmarked from when I was doing my own research and I understand that people can get busy with life and can't always find the necessary time for the due diligence. Hopefully, I was of some help.
Click to expand...


----------



## biglen

ckronengold said:


> Now that you can change the setting......what do you see? Don't leave us hanging like that! We can't take it!


It's basically a motion setting. The higher you put the setting, the more of the Soap Opera effect is seen. I'm curious to see what it does when watching a fast moving sport like football. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

sirius_basterd said:


> Was there a conclusion on how to reduce the blackout time when turning on / switching sources? I am buying a new receiver so I want to make sure I get one that will minimize the problem - any recommendations for a 5.1.2 receiver? I am using Klipsch RB-61 II Reference Series bookshelf speakers and some small speakers for surrounds, may upgrade to Atmos in the future.


I like my Denon 3400. 'Renewed' for $50 less than what I paid for new in June 2019. 'New' price is $100 more than what I paid in June. 
Maybe price fluxuates?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTTWYXV/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_rfb

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Z9ZGSZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Also, there was some discussion recently here about the Denon 3500, right now 'Renewed' for the same price as the new 3400:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L51FDQ1/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_rfb


Happy shopping!


----------



## jeahrens

jorisdriesen said:


> It was from the review on ProjectorCentral, and I'm seeing similar comments on the forum here. I'm not a fanboy for my UHD65, just would like some feedback on the comparison with the new Epson 5050/6050. I had an extremely good deal on my UHD65, so if I can sell it for what it's still worth, I don't need to pay a lot extra to get the 5050.
> 
> What worries me most is the lack of frame interpolation in 4K on the 5050. How big of an issue is that ? Must have been discussed here, right ?


I'd say it's only an issue if you are someone that wants FI. I've seen one 5050 and a few 5040's and their performance on 24p and 60p material was fine to me. If you're someone that can't handle how 24p film looks, then it would probably be cause for concern.


----------



## skylarlove1999

fredworld said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the support but I really didn't mind posting the info. I had the reviews bookmarked from when I was doing my own research and I understand that people can get busy with life and can't always find the necessary time for the due diligence. Hopefully, I was of some help.
> 
> 
> 
> I am sure you were of great help and honestly better than me. I should take your approach that if I can help maybe I should just help cuz maybe someone else is busy with life. Thank you for letting me see it from your perspective.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## ckronengold

biglen said:


> It's basically a motion setting. The higher you put the setting, the more of the Soap Opera effect is seen. I'm curious to see what it does when watching a fast moving sport like football.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yep. I was just looking for your opinion on it. I'll give you a little more time to play around. Thursday Night Football? Or do you need a full Sunday to really dig in? heh heh


----------



## biglen

ckronengold said:


> Yep. I was just looking for your opinion on it. I'll give you a little more time to play around. Thursday Night Football? Or do you need a full Sunday to really dig in? heh heh


I'll be watching Thursday Night Football, and I'll report back. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Chris Corcoran

I have tried a few HDR best/accurate calibrations posted in this thread and found the color to be quite yellowish, is this normal ?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Chris Corcoran said:


> I have tried a few HDR best/accurate calibrations posted in this thread and found the color to be quite yellowish, is this normal ?


Lumens output and color accuracy vary from projectors of the same model. This will greatly affect image quality when trying to apply settings that were calibrated for accuracy for another person's projector. If you are searching for color accuracy and the best image quality either buying the gear to perform a calibration yourself or paying a professional are the only two ways to get it done. Many people are satisfied with generic settings. Others will seek out true calibration. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## tomgru

Has anyone been able to control this via LAN and a harmony remote? (vs. IR)? For the life of me I can't seen to figure out if this is possible. 

thanks.


----------



## fredworld

skylarlove1999 said:


> Lumens output and color accuracy vary from projectors of the same model. This will greatly affect image quality when trying to apply settings that were calibrated for accuracy for another person's projector. If you are searching for color accuracy and the best image quality either buying the gear to perform a calibration yourself or paying a professional are the only two ways to get it done. Many people are satisfied with generic settings. Others will seek out true calibration.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc was one of the best investments I made at $40 for my Epson 5050UB's calibration. At first I tried using my old _Spears & Munsil High Definition Benchmark _Blu-ray Disc disc which was great for my old Sharp projector but it seemed off the mark for my Epson. Then I tried using settings as stated from various on line reviews. Still no love. The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm just about spot on with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs and the blue filter from the _Benchmark _Blu-ray Disc (the UHD version doesn't come with a filter). Bottom line is, one needs to address their own system's requirements as there are too many variables to screen size/material, ambient light, projector light output and the owner's tolerances for some deviation from perfection. Having said all that, I haven't ruled out professional calibration...yet. According to the AVS S&M UHD Benchmark Disc thread the disc is not meant for pixel shifters and seems to be primarily geared towards the LG 65" OLED model types but for me it was an eyebrow-raising find.


----------



## jeahrens

Chris Corcoran said:


> I have tried a few HDR best/accurate calibrations posted in this thread and found the color to be quite yellowish, is this normal ?


Although the replies to either dig into calibrating the unit or have it calibrated by a professional are spot on, you can adjust it quick and dirty.

Is the yellow tint mainly on bright scenes? Adjust green gain down.

Is the yellow tint mainly on dark scenes? Adjust green bias down.

Is the yellow tint there no matter what? Adjust green saturation down.

Just record where these settings are and you can always go back to what you have. Hopefully the Epson CMS has these controls available. My memory is foggy here.


----------



## biglen

Chris Corcoran said:


> I have tried a few HDR best/accurate calibrations posted in this thread and found the color to be quite yellowish, is this normal ?


Theses settings look really good on my 5050. Have you tried these?

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

fredworld said:


> Purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc was one of the best investments I made at $40 for my Epson 5050UB's calibration. At first I tried using my old _Spears & Munsil High Definition Benchmark _Blu-ray Disc disc which was great for my old Sharp projector but it seemed off the mark for my Epson. Then I tried using settings as stated from various on line reviews. Still no love. The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm just about spot on with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs and the blue filter from the _Benchmark _Blu-ray Disc (the UHD version doesn't come with a filter). Bottom line is, one needs to address their own system's requirements as there are too many variables to screen size/material, ambient light, projector light output and the owner's tolerances for some deviation from perfection. Having said all that, I haven't ruled out professional calibration...yet. According to the AVS S&M UHD Benchmark Disc thread the disc is not meant for pixel shifters and seems to be primarily geared towards the LG 65" OLED model types but for me it was an eyebrow-raising find.


Just got mine in the mail today, and I am reading and highlighting the online manuals as we speak (nerd-alert). Excited to do some basic calibration for $40!


----------



## Luminated67

jorisdriesen said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I don't wanna read through 111 pages and the search function is not giving me relevant results, so here goes. I currently have an Optoma UHD65 which I'm happy with, but ofcourse we all want the best for the budget we have, and I'm suspecting that the general consensus is that the Epson 6050 (TW9400 in Europe) has (much) better black levels, contrast and colors than my UHD65, while having a negligible difference in sharpness.
> 
> Do you know of direct comparisons or other usefull reviews to make my choice easier ? I'm also looking for a shop to do a live comparison. Thanks.


I haven’t seen the UHD65 only the UHD60 which I did a side by side comparison with a Sony HW45es, what I mean by side by side was each projector was feed the same material projecting on to the same screen via a HDMI splitter and with the use of table tennis bats one projected and vice versa to compare. I believe at the time it was a 86” screen and we were about 7 foot from it but from that distance the Sony knocked spots off the Optoma and this was solely down to superior black levels and contrast, this might sound bazar but from that distance the Sony looked to sharper of the two which I can only assume was to do with the afore mentioned things. Needless to say I came home with the Sony.

About 18 months later I switched to the Epson TW9400 though still have the Sony as a back up, the Epson has better blacks though slight but it’s brighter and with 1080p content it throws an equally as good an image as the Sony but when feed a 4K UHD disc it’s leaps ahead. 

The only negative I see is that for some who are sensitive to motion blur the Epson isn’t as good as your Optoma so what ever you do I’d suggest trying before you buy. Other than that it’s probably the best sub £3k projector on the market.


----------



## jorisdriesen

Luminated67 said:


> I haven’t seen the UHD65 only the UHD60 which I did a side by side comparison with a Sony HW45es, what I mean by side by side was each projector was feed the same material projecting on to the same screen via a HDMI splitter and with the use of table tennis bats one projected and vice versa to compare. I believe at the time it was a 86” screen and we were about 7 foot from it but from that distance the Sony knocked spots off the Optoma and this was solely down to superior black levels and contrast, this might sound bazar but from that distance the Sony looked to sharper of the two which I can only assume was to do with the afore mentioned things. Needless to say I came home with the Sony.
> 
> About 18 months later I switched to the Epson TW9400 though still have the Sony as a back up, the Epson has better blacks though slight but it’s brighter and with 1080p content it throws an equally as good an image as the Sony but when feed a 4K UHD disc it’s leaps ahead.
> 
> The only negative I see is that for some who are sensitive to motion blur the Epson isn’t as good as your Optoma so what ever you do I’d suggest trying before you buy. Other than that it’s probably the best sub £3k projector on the market.


I will probably go see them both live on Saturday, so I'm really interested. Many reviews stated the UHD65 to have a better image with 4K HDR content when compared to the 5040 (at that time), so I was really convinced that the UHD65 was the right choice as I'm only watching 4K discs and HDR where possible. Now with the 5050 it seems like the UHD65 is behind, but I'm not reading that anywhere except here in the Epson thread, which is to be expected probably .

So interested to see if I can have an honest and good comparison on Saturday.


----------



## Luminated67

jorisdriesen said:


> I will probably go see them both live on Saturday, so I'm really interested. Many reviews stated the UHD65 to have a better image with 4K HDR content when compared to the 5040 (at that time), so I was really convinced that the UHD65 was the right choice as I'm only watching 4K discs and HDR where possible. Now with the 5050 it seems like the UHD65 is behind, but I'm not reading that anywhere except here in the Epson thread, which is to be expected probably .
> 
> So interested to see if I can have an honest and good comparison on Saturday.


You will get ones on the DLP threads saying theirs is better, the same on JVC, Sony etc. I always say to anyone interested in buy the Epson to go compare with whatever else you are thinking of buying because it’s the only way you know you are making the right move which ever one you buy. If your intention is to sit quite close to the screen like say 7ft from a 100” screen then I reckon the Optoma would be the better choice as then pixel density becomes key but if you intend to watch from 9-10ft away where the resolution isn’t noticeable then I’d be surprised if the Epson didn’t really impress you.


----------



## John Budny

*New 5050UB with dead pixel*

Removed my 5040UB and installed the new 5050UB today, unfortunately, the new unit has a dead pixel (green dot). Epson is replacing the projector with a new unit via FedEx overnight so I should have it by Monday. Anyone else run into this with their new projector, just a bad roll of the dice on my part?


----------



## jeahrens

jorisdriesen said:


> I will probably go see them both live on Saturday, so I'm really interested. Many reviews stated the UHD65 to have a better image with 4K HDR content when compared to the 5040 (at that time), so I was really convinced that the UHD65 was the right choice as I'm only watching 4K discs and HDR where possible. Now with the 5050 it seems like the UHD65 is behind, but I'm not reading that anywhere except here in the Epson thread, which is to be expected probably .
> 
> So interested to see if I can have an honest and good comparison on Saturday.


I posted earlier on this. For the record I own neither the Epsons nor the Optomas I mentioned. In my opinion XPR 4K DLPs were never ahead of the 5040UB. Far from it actually. The consensus of the AVS folks that saw the same demo I did was the same. To be fair some of them did own the Epsons, but there were Sony/JVC/Panasonic owners there too. The 5050UB simply moves further ahead performance wise. 

Check closely if the reviewers saying the 4K DLP is better than the Epson are also resellers. I'm not saying that all of them would be biased. But the poor contrast of the XPR DLPs is not at all subtle. When you review these units make sure you pick the content. With very bright material the XPR DLP will do well, anything else the washed out grey contrast will show itself in short order. Also make sure the rooms that you demo these in is up to the task. Light pollution will hide the DLPs shortcomings and rob the Epson of part of its strengths.

Luminance67 is not wrong that there is brand bias to be found among some owners. I try my best not to fall into this trap and try to see everything I can by going on home theater crawls and checking out what's new at the local AV shops. In this case I certainly don't have any owners bias and my opinion is that the Epson throws a much better image than the 4K DLPs.


----------



## Porknz

Got this set up with my 150" screen last week. Enjoying it a lot, especially with football season and 4k movies too. Wondering how to start accessing digital media on it? I have an ethernet cable run to it, but I haven't figured out what to do to access prime or netflix or youtube etc. Do I need to purchase a firestick or something as well?


Thanks.


Oh, and the instructions show a cover for the area where the cables plug in, but I didn't have anything like that. Did you?


Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

John Budny said:


> Removed my 5040UB and installed the new 5050UB today, unfortunately, the new unit has a dead pixel (green dot). Epson is replacing the projector with a new unit via FedEx overnight so I should have it by Monday. Anyone else run into this with their new projector, just a bad roll of the dice on my part?


Sorry that happened to you I'm sure it's very frustrating. I had to Epson 5040 s fail due to power supply issues in that first 18 months. I got a 5050 from Epson as a replacement that was replicating the same issues as my 5040. So after going Ten rounds with Epson I was given a 6050 for all of my troubles.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

I'm curious how many people are using tone mapping with either the Panasonic UHD players or using MadVR for their physical 4k/HDR content. Do you see a significant difference when switching over to a streaming service for 4k/HDR content that does no have tone mapping in the display chain?

I'm asking this based on the recent JVC announcement adding dynamic tone mapping to their native 4k units. I thought I was going down the Epson path until I read that announcement and it sparked the above questions.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Got this set up with my 150" screen last week. Enjoying it a lot, especially with football season and 4k movies too. Wondering how to start accessing digital media on it? I have an ethernet cable run to it, but I haven't figured out what to do to access prime or netflix or youtube etc. Do I need to purchase a firestick or something as well?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Oh, and the instructions show a cover for the area where the cables plug in, but I didn't have anything like that. Did you?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Did you get a 5050 or 6050. 6050 comes with cable cover. 5050 does not.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

plain fan said:


> I'm curious how many people are using tone mapping with either the Panasonic UHD players or using MadVR for their physical 4k/HDR content. Do you see a significant difference when switching over to a streaming service for 4k/HDR content that does no have tone mapping in the display chain?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm asking this based on the recent JVC announcement adding dynamic tone mapping to their native 4k units. I thought I was going down the Epson path until I read that announcement and it sparked the above questions.


For movies containing the metadata I see much better specular highlights without the blacks being crushed. Overall just a much better HDR presentation. For movies without metadata I feel the need to use the HDR SLIDER on the projector just like with 4K streaming from Vudu, Prime or Netflix and still there are parts to the content where blacks get crushed or specular highlight look blown out missing much of the detail. Honestly if you have the budget and the reviews are good on the JVC Firmware update I would highly consider it. The JVC proprietary algorithm doesn't rely on any metadata and is not confined to one source. All HDR content passed through the projector will receive dynamic tone mapping. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Got this set up with my 150" screen last week. Enjoying it a lot, especially with football season and 4k movies too. Wondering how to start accessing digital media on it? I have an ethernet cable run to it, but I haven't figured out what to do to access prime or netflix or youtube etc. Do I need to purchase a firestick or something as well?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Oh, and the instructions show a cover for the area where the cables plug in, but I didn't have anything like that. Did you?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


The LAN line to the projector will not access any streaming content since there is not any onboard smart tools on the projector. I assume you are using an AVR. You will need a media player.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## asolor78

Im not sure if anyone has ever messed with this .. but i do notice that when using EDID in "Expand" mode on a roku ultra.. it then allows 420 10bit to be sent to epson 5050 .... I had thought that EDID in "expanded" is as same as sony, samsung HDMI "extended and or LG HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color.... am i correct or should i leave this in normal mode? ( reviewed both alaric and PJ reviews and nothing is ever said about that mode)


----------



## skylarlove1999

asolor78 said:


> Im not sure if anyone has ever messed with this .. but i do notice that when using EDID in "Expand" mode on a roku ultra.. it then allows 420 10bit to be sent to epson 5050 .... I had thought that EDID in "expanded" is as same as sony, samsung HDMI "extended and or LG HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color.... am i correct or should i leave this in normal mode? ( reviewed both alaric and PJ reviews and nothing is ever said about that mode)


Expanded is allowing the projector to receive a. 12 bit 4:4:4 signal. This is really designed so that the projector gets all the information for the BT.2020 color format for HDR. 

Alaric has his set to normal because of lag time when he switches content/sources. I haven't seen any 12 bit 4:4:4 signal even on UHD discs which are 12 bit 4:2:0. 

So Expanded is what you should be using if you want all the colors that the projector is capable of displaying. 

The color depth line will depend on the content being viewed. I have include some examples. I can force my Panasonic ub820 to send the projector a 12 bit 4:4:4 signal but the UHD disc is actually 12 bit 4:2:0.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## griffindodd

Just ordered my 5050UB, scheduled to arrive on monday, so I'm taking the day off.

feeling kinda.....


----------



## plain fan

Thanks skylarlove1999, I was really curious what people were doing with different sources. My personal viewing would be mainly disc based 4k, HOWEVER, I know that I would want to watch every bit of 4k and HDR content I could watch, which means streaming sources as well.

And naturally it was just posted that the JVCs may be on sale through licensed dealers....


----------



## skylarlove1999

plain fan said:


> Thanks skylarlove1999, I was really curious what people were doing with different sources. My personal viewing would be mainly disc based 4k, HOWEVER, I know that I would want to watch every bit of 4k and HDR content I could watch, which means streaming sources as well.
> 
> 
> 
> And naturally it was just posted that the JVCs may be on sale through licensed dealers....


Still very expensive for true 4K JVC . 5050 throws amazing picture especially considering the price point.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Maximum7

So I bought an Epson 2150 last year as an interim piece until the 5050 came out. I am surprised how decent the picture is for the price. 
I am wondering what I will gain by going to the 5050? 
The main thing that bothers me is motion blur. 
Coming from Plasma and now OLED, it's very noticeable to me. Will this be improved with the 5050 or do I need to move to DLP. 


I do have a light controlled room, 106" screen 11' and 14' away.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Maximum7 said:


> So I bought an Epson 2150 last year as an interim piece until the 5050 came out. I am surprised how decent the picture is for the price.
> I am wondering what I will gain by going to the 5050?
> The main thing that bothers me is motion blur.
> Coming from Plasma and now OLED, it's very noticeable to me. Will this be improved with the 5050 or do I need to move to DLP.
> 
> 
> I do have a light controlled room, 106" screen 11' and 14' away.


 you will not get better motion with the 5050. You will get a much better picture especially HDR. But for those individuals more susceptible to motion blur it will not be improved by purchasing the 5050. DLP will be a step down in contrast and black levels and you might see the rainbow effect. I would check out a DLP in person before you buy.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

griffindodd said:


> Just ordered my 5050UB, scheduled to arrive on monday, so I'm taking the day off.
> 
> 
> 
> feeling kinda.....


Congratulations and enjoy

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## tibimakai

When can I expect the priced to go down, or maybe refurbished ones to start showing up?


----------



## skylarlove1999

tibimakai said:


> When can I expect the priced to go down, or maybe refurbished ones to start showing up?


Price probably won't be reduced for quite some time. No need to do so due to sales volumes being excellent. Might see a 12.5% discount by Black Friday. MAYBE.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Johnny nz

Woop Woop, just ordered my TW9400 ( 6050 ) ,will be delivered in 2 days so excited 

ps Im still back reading this tread from the begining to collect as much info as possible 



*
*


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## reechings

Damn I can't stop ping ponging between nx-5 and 6050. Native 4K and better black levels sound great but price and brightness keeps pulling me back.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Damn I can't stop ping ponging between nx-5 and 6050. Native 4K and better black levels sound great but price and brightness keeps pulling me back.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I love my 6050. I saw a NX5 at my local best buy. Not ideal conditions but due to the brightness you mentioned I preferred my 6050. I did prefer the NX7 over my 6050. Better lens made for a better picture but it was close but not worth the price difference to me even at about 15% under MSRP. I need more lumens to justify the price difference although the dynamic tone mapping via firmware update may change that opinion. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> I love my 6050. I saw a NX5 at my local best buy. Not ideal conditions but due to the brightness you mentioned I preferred my 6050. I did prefer the NX7 over my 6050. Better lens made for a better picture but it was close but not worth the price difference to me even at about 15% under MSRP. I need more lumens to justify the price difference although the dynamic tone mapping via firmware update may change that opinion.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Do you mean if the Epson were to get a dynamic tone mapping update? Is that likely? The JVCs have it out of the box, correct?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> Do you mean if the Epson were to get a dynamic tone mapping update? Is that likely? The JVCs have it out of the box, correct?


No sorry for the confusion. I meant that if DTM works very well in the JVC, I would sacrifice the lumens from my 6050 due to the sharper and more detailed image, better contrast and better black levels of the NX7. Even with DTM in an Epson the advantages would go to the NX7. There is no denying that the NX7 throws the crispier more detailed image. JVC currently has static tone mapping but a November firmware update will introduce Dynamic Tone Mapping. 

http://pro.jvc.com/pro/pr/2019/consumer/firmware_update.html

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## jorisdriesen

OK so just went to compare my UHD65 and the Epson 6050 in a projector store. Watched about 15 minutes of 4k HDR content on the UHD65 (pitch black room, 100" wide screen), and then the same content on the Epson. To be honest, I was very happy coming out because I really couldn't see any difference between the two. Maybe the colors on the Epson were a bit more alive in the "Peru" demo, but that's really it. Didn't notice that in movie scenes.

I bought a new UHD65 for about $1800 (store price still above $3000 here) and the Epson is still about $3100, so for me the extra $1300 is not worth the difference between the UHD65 and the Epson. Maybe many people here see a big difference in contrast and blacks, but watching them after eachother with 15 minutes between the exact same scenes, it were all very sharp and colorful scenes for me on both projectors.

The lack of frame interpolation on the Epson didn't bother me at all, was not noticeable, because that was a concern I had, but all OK. The motorised lens and extreme lens shift are very nice on the Epson, I have to admit.


----------



## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> I love my 6050. I saw a NX5 at my local best buy. Not ideal conditions but due to the brightness you mentioned I preferred my 6050. I did prefer the NX7 over my 6050. Better lens made for a better picture but it was close but not worth the price difference to me even at about 15% under MSRP. I need more lumens to justify the price difference although the dynamic tone mapping via firmware update may change that opinion.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


So you actually saw a lot of difference between the NX-5 and NX-7 then I take it? NX-7 brightness would still be quite a bit less than 6050 though I imagine.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> So you actually saw a lot of difference between the NX-5 and NX-7 then I take it? NX-7 brightness would still be quite a bit less than 6050 though I imagine.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Yes. none of the projectors were calibrated so the Epson brightness stood out but when you put the Digital Cinema filter in place on the Epson you lose quite a bit of the lumens. JVC in their DCI-P3 mode doesn't lose nearly as much lumens so the Epson only has a little more brightness in those similar modes. Yes I thought the NX7 was sharper than both the NX5 and the 6050. Once again comparisons were under less than ideal conditions. I had already had my 6050 a month at the time and loved it, so I am sure there was some recency bias on my part. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes. none of the projectors were calibrated so the Epson brightness stood out but when you put the Digital Cinema filter in place on the Epson you lose quite a bit of the lumens. JVC in their DCI-P3 mode doesn't lose nearly as much lumens so the Epson only has a little more brightness in those similar modes. Yes I thought the NX7 was sharper than both the NX5 and the 6050. Once again comparisons were under less than ideal conditions. I had already had my 6050 a month at the time and loved it, so I am sure there was some recency bias on my part.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah I would probably leave the filter turned off anyways for more brightness. Are you able to watch HDR content without having the use high lamp mode? I think the noise would bother me if it's anywhere near the same loudness as my current Epson 3100.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Yeah I would probably leave the filter turned off anyways for more brightness. Are you able to watch HDR content without having the use high lamp mode? I think the noise would bother me if it's anywhere near the same loudness as my current Epson 3100.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Yes medium lamp and Natural picture mode give good HDR performance in my triple black velvet theater. YMMV of course. Those settings aren't as accurate as Digital Cinema which engages the DCI-P3 color filter. I do prefer the HDR performance in High Lamp with Digital Cinema but you the fan noise is noticeable in quiet scenes. Not noticeable most of the time. I use @Alaric settings with a few tweaks for my projector, so I offset high lamp usage by running Eco lamp and Natural picture mode for SDR content. My 7.1.4 with an SVS PB 16 ultra usually negates fan noise. LOL. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes medium lamp and Natural picture mode give good HDR performance in my triple black velvet theater. YMMV of course. Those settings aren't as accurate as Digital Cinema which engages the DCI-P3 color filter. I do prefer the HDR performance in High Lamp with Digital Cinema but you the fan noise is noticeable in quiet scenes. Not noticeable most of the time. I use @Alaric settings with a few tweaks for my projector, so I offset high lamp usage by running Eco lamp and Natural picture mode for SDR content. My 7.1.4 with an SVS PB 16 ultra usually negates fan noise. LOL.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah if you're using those settings in a black Velvet room then I should probably take NX-5 off my list. What size screen you run again?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Yeah if you're using those settings in a black Velvet room then I should probably take NX-5 off my list. What size screen you run again?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Seymour Glacier White perfectly smooth 1.3 gain screen 120 inches 16x9 screen with manual masking panels for Cinemascope. 11 ft first row with projector at 16 ft ceiling mounted. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> Seymour Glacier White perfectly smooth 1.3 gain screen 120 inches 16x9 screen with manual masking panels for Cinemascope. 11 ft first row with projector at 16 ft ceiling mounted.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah if you're using medium and high lamp for that setup then I will definitely need those lumens for a 135" screen in a semi treated room.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Yeah if you're using medium and high lamp for that setup then I will definitely need those lumens for a 135" screen in a semi treated room.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I mean you could use Medium with Natural mode but I find the details in shadows and specular highlights not as spectacular as when you use the Digital Cinema and high lamp. If your projector is closer you would get more lumens on screen. The NX5 was honestly not worth it for the money IMHO unless you were going to sit at 7ft . Then you could really see the benefits of true 4k. At 10 ft and further from the screen the true 4k advantage is really hard to discern over eshift 4k.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## reechings

So besides the LS500 there weren't any other big announcements from Epson right? The 6050 is their flagship projector for the foreseeable future? Wonder if they are going to add dynamic tone mapping like JVC.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## plain fan

skylarlove1999 said:


> Still very expensive for true 4K JVC . 5050 throws amazing picture especially considering the price point.


Exactly. And from your following posts, you've been making the very statements that are going through my head at the moment. For the price difference I could go with the 5050 and enjoy it for a few years while 4k and HDR gets improved (maybe even 8k) and then upgrade to a better unit. But at the same time, I'm intrigued by the idea that the JVC units are true 4k and, more importantly, may benefit from the DTM update that has been announced.

I went to a Best Buy today hoping to see both units in action, only to learn that I need to drive to a different store about 25 miles away to see them both in action, back to back. As far as projector position goes, it will be around 10 feet from the screen with my seating position almost directly beneath it or just ahead of it. My seating distance is close to the distance where true 4k would be a benefit and I know that in reality the HDR image will be more impressive than pixels. My room could be entirely blacked out, if I so desire but it would be quite some effort that would include replacing the carpet, repainting everything, etc.


----------



## Krbass

X790 owner here. I compared it directly to a 5050, the X790 was better but Epson does a great job for the price. I also was able to compare my JVC to an NX5 and am happy I did not go that route. Imo X790>5050>NX5. 

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Krbass said:


> X790 owner here. I compared it directly to a 5050, the X790 was better but Epson does a great job for the price. I also was able to compare my JVC to an NX5 and am happy I did not go that route. Imo X790>5050>NX5.
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


100% agree with this post. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

plain fan said:


> Exactly. And from your following posts, you've been making the very statements that are going through my head at the moment. For the price difference I could go with the 5050 and enjoy it for a few years while 4k and HDR gets improved (maybe even 8k) and then upgrade to a better unit. But at the same time, I'm intrigued by the idea that the JVC units are true 4k and, more importantly, may benefit from the DTM update that has been announced.
> 
> 
> 
> I went to a Best Buy today hoping to see both units in action, only to learn that I need to drive to a different store about 25 miles away to see them both in action, back to back. As far as projector position goes, it will be around 10 feet from the screen with my seating position almost directly beneath it or just ahead of it. My seating distance is close to the distance where true 4k would be a benefit and I know that in reality the HDR image will be more impressive than pixels. My room could be entirely blacked out, if I so desire but it would be quite some effort that would include replacing the carpet, repainting everything, etc.


Without blacking out your room the better contrast and lower black levels offered by JVC will be somewhat diminished. Sounds like your room could also benefit from the extra lumens of the 5050. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> So besides the LS500 there weren't any other big announcements from Epson right? The 6050 is their flagship projector for the foreseeable future? Wonder if they are going to add dynamic tone mapping like JVC.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Yes. Really disappointed we didn't get a true 4k laser from Epson. I would love to see DTM but I don't think so. Next generation of the 5050 line in 2021 would be my guess. Honestly I expect true 4K laser before they put out the successor to the 5050.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## plain fan

Well, my labor is cheap!  But you're right, I've been considering the extra lumens as a bonus compared to the deeper blacks.

And Sound & Vision just said that the 6050UB was by far the best value in a projector after seeing it in action at CEDIA here in CO.


----------



## reechings

Yeah I'm still a little torn. Got an updated quote for the 6050 and it comes out to 73% of the cost of the sale price on the NX-5. Still the better bang for buck and lumens you guys think?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Yeah I'm still a little torn. Got an updated quote for the 6050 and it comes out to 73% of the cost of the sale price on the NX-5. Still the better bang for buck and lumens you guys think?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


You know I do

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Porknz

*Thanks*



skylarlove1999 said:


> Did you get a 5050 or 6050. 6050 comes with cable cover. 5050 does not.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I have the 5050 so that makes sense. Thanks.


----------



## Porknz

*streaming media*



skylarlove1999 said:


> The LAN line to the projector will not access any streaming content since there is not any onboard smart tools on the projector. I assume you are using an AVR. You will need a media player.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Sorry for the lack of knowledge, but does media player mean something like a firestick? And what is AVR?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Sorry for the lack of knowledge, but does media player mean something like a firestick? And what is AVR?


Yes media player would be Roku, Apple TV, Nvidia Shield, Amazon fire stick, etc. AVR is audio video receiver. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Porknz

*fire cube?*



skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes media player would be Roku, Apple TV, Nvidia Shield, Amazon fire stick, etc. AVR is audio video receiver.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Been thinking about the Fire Cube since we really like our echo dots. Wondering how it connects to devices so that you can walk into a room and it can turn on your amp, projector, cable box etc.


----------



## rupedogg24

Just upgraded to the 5050 from the 40. Its brighter. Much brighter. I can actually watch digital cinema setting without it being too dark. The HDR slider is a gamechanger for this project. Retained the black levels but got brighter. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## WynsWrld98

rupedogg24 said:


> Just upgraded to the 5050 from the 40. Its brighter. Much brighter. I can actually watch digital cinema setting without it being too dark. The HDR slider is a gamechanger for this project. Retained the black levels but got brighter.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Much brighter? Are you comparing a 5050 with zero hours on lamp to a 5040 with some hours on lamp? Because I believe spec of lumens between the two little difference.


----------



## rupedogg24

WynsWrld98 said:


> Much brighter? Are you comparing a 5050 with zero hours on lamp to a 5040 with some hours on lamp? Because I believe spec of lumens between the two little difference.


Not at all. I bought a new 5040 lamp when I sold my old house. The HDR slider on the 5050 makes things much better and brighter. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## bdht

Does anyone know the pixel response time for this projector? preferably the black to white figure.


----------



## Biggydeen

So just got my new 6050UB (tw9400) unit.

I still have the same colour convergence problems. Starting to think this is just how 3lcd works. The three colours can never be perfectly alligned, atleast not in the 2 units I got. It's cleary visibly when standing close to the screen. This results in a weirdly unsharp picture when looking at it from a distance. It looks sharp but it's not (if that makes sense).

There is a clear purple blueish haze around white pixels. Since this is my second unit I doubt this will be any better on newer units. Although this second unit seems to be a bit better then the last one.

Also, this unit has a weird sound when playing movies. And there is also a dead pixel.... So this will be send back for DOA again.

Epson is not for me i guess. Will be looking for another projector. Think I will go for the Optoma UHD65.


----------



## Porknz

Biggydeen said:


> So just got my new 6050UB (tw9400) unit.
> 
> I still have the same colour convergence problems. Starting to think this is just how 3lcd works. The three colours can never be perfectly alligned, atleast not in the 2 units I got. It's cleary visibly when standing close to the screen. This results in a weirdly unsharp picture when looking at it from a distance. It looks sharp but it's not (if that makes sense).
> 
> There is a clear purple blueish haze around white pixels. Since this is my second unit I doubt this will be any better on newer units. Although this second unit seems to be a bit better then the last one.
> 
> Also, this unit has a weird sound when playing movies. And there is also a dead pixel.... So this will be send back for DOA again.
> 
> Epson is not for me i guess. Will be looking for another projector. Think I will go for the Optoma UHD65.


Sounds like some bad luck. I've had mine up for a week or two and haven't noticed any of that.


----------



## Biggydeen

Porknz said:


> Sounds like some bad luck. I've had mine up for a week or two and haven't noticed any of that.


Could be. This is what I see upclose (see attachment). You won't see it from a distance, everything looks ok.

You can see clearly green and bluish/purple tint. From a distance it looks white.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rupedogg24 said:


> Just upgraded to the 5050 from the 40. Its brighter. Much brighter. I can actually watch digital cinema setting without it being too dark. The HDR slider is a gamechanger for this project. Retained the black levels but got brighter.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


You sir are 100% spot on.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

WynsWrld98 said:


> Much brighter? Are you comparing a 5050 with zero hours on lamp to a 5040 with some hours on lamp? Because I believe spec of lumens between the two little difference.


You make a very good point but I happen to agree with the original poster and I now have 499 hours on my 6050. There is such a thing as perceived contrast, could there be perceived brightness 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Been thinking about the Fire Cube since we really like our echo dots. Wondering how it connects to devices so that you can walk into a room and it can turn on your amp, projector, cable box etc.


https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/harmony-hub

I use one of these with an Amazon Echo Dot . Voice command and everything turns on.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

Biggydeen said:


> Could be. This is what I see upclose (see attachment). You won't see it from a distance, everything looks ok.
> 
> 
> 
> You can see clearly green and bluish/purple tint. From a distance it looks white.


Did you try both HDMI inputs? I had some weird looking stuff on input 1, but when I switched to input 2, the picture was perfect. I was going to send it back, but I've heard they send you refurbs after 30 days? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Krbass said:


> X790 owner here. I compared it directly to a 5050, the X790 was better but Epson does a great job for the price. I also was able to compare my JVC to an NX5 and am happy I did not go that route. Imo *X790>5050>NX5*
> 
> Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


I would agree with this but only if it’s based on performance/price ratio. The reality is the NX5 throws a superior picture to either the x790 or Epson but when you take price into account it’s improvement doesn’t equate to the price difference.


----------



## Luminated67

Biggydeen said:


> So just got my new 6050UB (tw9400) unit.
> 
> I still have the same colour convergence problems. Starting to think this is just how 3lcd works. The three colours can never be perfectly alligned, atleast not in the 2 units I got. It's cleary visibly when standing close to the screen. This results in a weirdly unsharp picture when looking at it from a distance. It looks sharp but it's not (if that makes sense).
> 
> There is a clear purple blueish haze around white pixels. Since this is my second unit I doubt this will be any better on newer units. Although this second unit seems to be a bit better then the last one.
> 
> Also, this unit has a weird sound when playing movies. And there is also a dead pixel.... So this will be send back for DOA again.
> 
> Epson is not for me i guess. Will be looking for another projector. Think I will go for the Optoma UHD65.


Convergence can will always be an issue for non DLP projectors, but mine is perfect in this respect which we’re fine tuned by my calibrator. It does sound like very bad luck on your part or because you have seen this up close your mind can’t I see it.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I would agree with this but only if it’s based on performance/price ratio. The reality is the NX5 throws a superior picture to either the x790 or Epson but when you take price into account it’s improvement doesn’t equate to the price difference.


I wouldn't use the term superior. Superior would be the NX9. Better? Sure if you look just at the picture but I found the NX5 to not be bright enough for me. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Krbass

Luminated67 said:


> I would agree with this but only if it’s based on performance/price ratio. The reality is the NX5 throws a superior picture to either the x790 or Epson but when you take price into account it’s improvement doesn’t equate to the price difference.


At 12' I preferred the X790. I assume this was due to the contrast. The NX5 as you got close to the screen was razor sharp tho. 
But yes it's the price difference that makes the 5050 a clear winner imo. If I did not already have an X790 I'd grab a 5050 in a heartbeat. 
Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


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## dimi123

Biggydeen said:


> Could be. This is what I see upclose (see attachment). You won't see it from a distance, everything looks ok.
> 
> You can see clearly green and bluish/purple tint. From a distance it looks white.


What you're seeing is the so called screen-door effect (SDE), which can be minimized by activating 4K Enhancement or better yet - input a native 4K signal.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen-door_effect


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Biggydeen said:


> Could be. This is what I see upclose (see attachment). You won't see it from a distance, everything looks ok.
> 
> You can see clearly green and bluish/purple tint. From a distance it looks white.


That actually looks pretty good imho. Not sure if it can be 100% perfect everywhere on screen. The key is whether or not it looks white from a distance, which you said it does.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

dimi123 said:


> What you're seeing is the so called screen-door effect (SDE), which can be minimized by activating 4K Enhancement or better yet - input a native 4K signal.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screen-door_effect


No he's talking about panel alignment, not the SDE.

https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd3/cpd39809/source/basic_use/tasks/panel_aligning.html


----------



## dimi123

Biggydeen said:


> Could be. This is what I see upclose (see attachment). You won't see it from a distance, everything looks ok.
> 
> You can see clearly green and bluish/purple tint. From a distance it looks white.





MidnightWatcher said:


> No he's talking about panel alignment, not the SDE.
> 
> https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd3/cpd39809/source/basic_use/tasks/panel_aligning.html



Yes, I realized that too late. It's mostly visible on text when displaying a PC desktop and letting the Epson upscale, but can be mitigated if you feed the Epson a native 4K signal from the PC.


----------



## anilrao

Biggydeen said:


> Could be. This is what I see upclose (see attachment). You won't see it from a distance, everything looks ok.
> 
> You can see clearly green and bluish/purple tint. From a distance it looks white.


Question: According to the user manual you can align the blue and red panels, unless I'm misunderstanding the issue. Have you tried this? If so, is the issue you're having an alignment uniformity issue? 
I'm not an owner of this projector (current one is the Sharp XV-Z30000) but I am considering it.
Thank you for the info.


----------



## anilrao

*Anyone tried the 3D?*

Has anyone here tried the 3D?


----------



## biglen

anilrao said:


> Has anyone here tried the 3D?


I have. I don't know if I need to change a setting, but I'm definitely getting some ghosting with 3D, and it doesn't look so good. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

Anyone using an acoustically transparent screen with their 5050/6050?


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> I wouldn't use the term superior. Superior would be the NX9. Better? Sure if you look just at the picture but I found the NX5 to not be bright enough for me.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


My experience is there's no amount of resolution enhancement or color precision that can make up for a picture that isn't bright enough. I swapped out an Epson 5030 for an Epson 3700 on my 150" screen (an inferior projector by most measurements except lumens) and it was so much more pleasing to watch. I'm 50/50 sports movies so it's definitely a media room and not a "theater room" but the extra brightness added way more than the loss of contrast ever took away. The screen came alive and just popped. Instruments that measure color accuracy and contrast say it is worse, the human eye test said put the instruments away. A less accurate and way more fun projector to watch in my room.


----------



## tsharp

plain fan said:


> Anyone using an acoustically transparent screen with their 5050/6050?




I do! 133" 16:9 light controlled room with 17' throw. Love it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

Hawkmarket said:


> My experience is there's no amount of resolution enhancement or color precision that can make up for a picture that isn't bright enough. I swapped out an Epson 5030 for an Epson 3700 on my 150" screen (an inferior projector by most measurements except lumens) and it was so much more pleasing to watch. I'm 50/50 sports movies so it's definitely a media room and not a "theater room" but the extra brightness added way more than the loss of contrast ever took away. The screen came alive and just popped. Instruments that measure color accuracy and contrast say it is worse, the human eye test said put the instruments away. A less accurate and way more fun projector to watch in my room.


Interesting comment. I currently have the 3100 which is similar brightness to the 3700 and am considering the 6050. I wonder how they compare on a pure brightness level.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> I wouldn't use the term superior. Superior would be the NX9. Better? Sure if you look just at the picture but I found the NX5 to not be bright enough for me.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Superior and better are basically the same meaning and by this I mean in that it’s sharper and better defined which is a fact when you move close enough with a 4K projector and this is true against either the X790 or 5050. The problem is that this sharpness comes at a considerable price increase as well as you rightly stated it’s no where near as bright as the Epson so bigger screen sizes will be less effective.


----------



## Hawkmarket

reechings said:


> Interesting comment. I currently have the 3100 which is similar brightness to the 3700 and am considering the 6050. I wonder how they compare on a pure brightness level.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


What size is your screen?


----------



## reechings

Hawkmarket said:


> What size is your screen?


Right now it's 92" but planning to go to around 135" in a room that is light controlled but not specifically treated for projector.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

plain fan said:


> Anyone using an acoustically transparent screen with their 5050/6050?


I am.

http://www.seymourav.com/default.asp

150" Center Stage XD single layer Precision frame.

Probably a close second to the 5050, in terms of best upgrades to my home theater.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Ok, this cant be right and I know it sounds crazy so please, try this on your own unit. It has me seriously considering why I upgraded to this unit when my main goal was clarity with 4k resolution.

1080p looks crisp and sharp natively. 

1080p with 4k enhancement is very blurry in comparison.

4k resolution looks the same type of blurry as 1080p 4k enhancement.

I understand it's a pixle shifter but shouldn't it be sharper and clearer in comparison to a 1080p signal? Especially 4k ?


----------



## Chris Corcoran

https://imgur.com/a/MuUwKUB

Here are comparison pictures, nothing is altered.


----------



## Luminated67

Chris Corcoran said:


> Ok, this cant be right and I know it sounds crazy so please, try this on your own unit. It has me seriously considering why I upgraded to this unit when my main goal was clarity with 4k resolution.
> 
> 1080p looks crisp and sharp natively.
> 
> 1080p with 4k enhancement is very blurry in comparison.
> 
> 4k resolution looks the same type of blurry as 1080p 4k enhancement.
> 
> I understand it's a pixle shifter but shouldn't it be sharper and clearer in comparison to a 1080p signal? Especially 4k ?


You are talking looking at the image extremely closely. This is normal not only with the Epson but with the JVC E-shifters too, where Epson differs is that with 4K enhancement on you can sharpen the image with the image enhancement presets.

Whilst close up the image without e-shift will look sharper you will almost notice that the letters look jagged compared the the image with e-shift and also with it on they look finer. You just need to play with the image enhancement presets


----------



## Biggydeen

MidnightWatcher said:


> That actually looks pretty good imho. Not sure if it can be 100% perfect everywhere on screen. The key is whether or not it looks white from a distance, which you said it does.


Well it looks white but it does not look sharp. For example, the - bar on the letter T supposed to be 2 white pixels wide. But when i'm trying to focus the picture the - bar becomes either washed out a little bit or becomes 3 pixels wide. So the picure is never sharp. 

From a distance (3.5m from 120inch) this looks sharp but it's not. It's like blinking with your eyes every time to look if it's sharp. 



dimi123 said:


> Yes, I realized that too late. It's mostly visible on text when displaying a PC desktop and letting the Epson upscale, but can be mitigated if you feed the Epson a native 4K signal from the PC.


I'm using a PC as a source. So that might explain it. But when feeding a 4k signal (is that the same when setting the resolution on the pc to 4k?) the picure becomes very blurry. I hardly can read the clock in the bottom right corner. 

But when playing the "costa rica 4k" on youtube it does look great. But when playing 4k movies it just looks not sharp enough for some reason. 

Also, upscaling 1080p with the image enhancement does not seem to do much. As this projector is native 1080p with upscaling to 4k, 1080p movies should be no problem. 

Maybe i'm very sensative to these kind of projectors.



anilrao said:


> Question: According to the user manual you can align the blue and red panels, unless I'm misunderstanding the issue. Have you tried this? If so, is the issue you're having an alignment uniformity issue?
> I'm not an owner of this projector (current one is the Sharp XV-Z30000) but I am considering it.
> Thank you for the info.


Yes you can and also tried this extensively. But this has some very mixed results. What happens is the following:

When aligning you can align two or three colors. The green is fixed. So you can align the red on the green. The blue on the green. Or the red and the blue at the same time. 

But, the line being displayed is not 1 or 2 pixels wide. It looks washed out. When i'm mis aligning the red for example it's a clear red line of 1 pixel wide. But when I align the red pixel line back on the green line the color becomes washed out. Like the red is comming out on the top of the green line but also on the bottom. 

So no matter how much I align, the line always becomes washed out.

This unit seems better then the last one though. But unfortunatly this one also has a dead pixel...

Will try some more testing today. Never noticed this on my old Benq w1070. That one just looked very sharp.

P.s. some other projectors i'm looking at are the benq w5700 (but it's 500 euro more then the Epson so that's prob a no go.) and the optoma UHD65 which is 200 euro's more then the Epson (2200 euro). Prob will go for the Optoma.


----------



## dimi123

Biggydeen said:


> I'm using a PC as a source. So that might explain it. But when feeding a 4k signal (is that the same when setting the resolution on the pc to 4k?) the picure becomes very blurry. I hardly can read the clock in the bottom right corner.


Set the PC to 3840x2160p, 12bpc, YCbCr 4:2:2, 60Hz and 250% internal scaling. Image Enhancement on the PJ to Preset 2 or 3. Then report back.


----------



## Biggydeen

dimi123 said:


> Set the PC to 3840x2160p, 12bpc, YCbCr 4:2:2, 60Hz and 250% internal scaling. Image Enhancement on the PJ to Preset 2 or 3. Then report back.


Where can I change the 2bpc, YCbCr 4:2:2, and 250% internal scaling? Is this set with the used media player?


----------



## dimi123

Biggydeen said:


> Where can I change the 2bpc, YCbCr 4:2:2, and 250% internal scaling? Is this set with the used media player?


Which graphics card and Windows version are you using?


----------



## Biggydeen

dimi123 said:


> Which graphics card and Windows version are you using?


Thanks found it. Using a GTX1070ti.

This looks much better indeed!

Will try some video's now.

Also, my new 10k HDR HDMI cable seems to be broken... Causing very weird sounds coming from my projector. Used different sources. WIth another cheap cable it looks fine.

Did saw a dead pixel or something yesterday so hopefully this was caused by the cable as well. Can't see it right now.

Update: picture is much sharper now. But still getting a dead pixel at the Epson black screen (if no source is attached). And a weird sounds from the projector when playing movies.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Luminated67 said:


> Chris Corcoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, this cant be right and I know it sounds crazy so please, try this on your own unit. It has me seriously considering why I upgraded to this unit when my main goal was clarity with 4k resolution.
> 
> 1080p looks crisp and sharp natively.
> 
> 1080p with 4k enhancement is very blurry in comparison.
> 
> 4k resolution looks the same type of blurry as 1080p 4k enhancement.
> 
> I understand it's a pixle shifter but shouldn't it be sharper and clearer in comparison to a 1080p signal? Especially 4k ?
> 
> 
> 
> You are talking looking at the image extremely closely. This is normal not only with the Epson but with the JVC E-shifters too, where Epson differs is that with 4K enhancement on you can sharpen the image with the image enhancement presets.
> 
> Whilst close up the image without e-shift will look sharper you will almost notice that the letters look jagged compared the the image with e-shift and also with it on they look finer. You just need to play with the image enhancement presets
Click to expand...


Thanks for this,

I'm not sure if you saw this but here is a comparison shot. First is native 1080p the other is 4k enhancement.

If the pixel shift causes so much smudging of the image than what is the point? Surely this is why I'm disappointed with the 4k image as well as it looks very soft.

Yes, up close the 1080p native was harsher, but defined. 4k enhancement looses detail, you can clearly see that as the camera is in focus. From a distance the 1080p retains and looks significantly sharper as well. Any minor harshness up close is gone when seating 12 feet away. The image is crisp and clean.

There is no way feeding the unit 4k via UHD movie should look fuzzier in comparison to 1080p at the same distance.

https://imgur.com/a/MuUwKUB

Here are comparison pictures, nothing is altered.


----------



## dimi123

Biggydeen said:


> Thanks found it. Using a GTX1070ti.
> 
> This looks much better indeed!
> 
> Update: picture is much sharper now. But still getting a dead pixel at the Epson black screen (if no source is attached). And a weird sounds from the projector when playing movies.


Too bad about the dead pixel, but don't give up on the Epson yet. You can achieve even more additional sharpness (without artifacts) by using madVR's sharpening and upscaling algorithms, not to mention dynamic tone mapping (DTM). The Epson is a much better projector than those DLP's you mention.

P.S.: Here's a recent conversation that illustrates the differences between feeding an eshift projector with a 1080p signal and a 2160p signal: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-video-processors/3053602-madvr-envy-anticipation-thread-40.html#post58563504


----------



## Upswright1

*Picture in Picture*

Is there a way to have a full split screen Picture in Picture with the 5050ub? I was able to do this with my earlier version Epson projectors. I loved being able to have split screen for pc and then watch tv on the other half? Can this be done?
Thanks!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Upswright1 said:


> Is there a way to have a full split screen Picture in Picture with the 5050ub? I was able to do this with my earlier version Epson projectors. I loved being able to have split screen for pc and then watch tv on the other half? Can this be done?
> 
> Thanks!


The 5050 does not offer picture in picture or any kind of split screen.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Chris Corcoran said:


> Thanks for this,
> 
> I'm not sure if you saw this but here is a comparison shot. First is native 1080p the other is 4k enhancement.
> 
> If the pixel shift causes so much smudging of the image than what is the point? Surely this is why I'm disappointed with the 4k image as well as it looks very soft.
> 
> Yes, up close the 1080p native was harsher, but defined. 4k enhancement looses detail, you can clearly see that as the camera is in focus. From a distance the 1080p retains and looks significantly sharper as well. Any minor harshness up close is gone when seating 12 feet away. The image is crisp and clean.
> 
> There is no way feeding the unit 4k via UHD movie should look fuzzier in comparison to 1080p at the same distance.
> 
> https://imgur.com/a/MuUwKUB
> 
> Here are comparison pictures, nothing is altered.












1080P with e-shift.










4K 










The above just zoomed in.

Now maybe you need to tweak your focus again, I’d suggest first adjust the focus with 4K e-shift off and then after you’ve adjusted it turn on the 4K e-shift and see if the focus need fine adjusted more.


----------



## jeahrens

reechings said:


> Damn I can't stop ping ponging between nx-5 and 6050. Native 4K and better black levels sound great but price and brightness keeps pulling me back.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


They are very close in price in the US. If you would like more details shoot me a PM.

Lumens wise it will be within 200-300 calibrated lumens of the Epson calibrated in medium bulb.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> They are very close in price in the US. If you would like more details shoot me a PM.
> 
> 
> 
> Lumens wise it will be within 200-300 calibrated lumens of the Epson calibrated in medium bulb.


You have to decide what you value more. More detail, better contrast and black levels or more brightness. The larger the screen the more impact on both choices. The 6050 has impressive detail, contrast and black levels. But not as good as the JVC. If your room is blacked out the JVC differences will really shine through. If your room has more ambient light the benefits of the JVC begin to diminish. If you primarily watch movies the NX5 will once again shine under the right conditions. For sports viewing you really will not miss the black levels, contrast and detail. You will really appreciate the extra brightness of the 6050 and the ability to have lights on while viewing sports. NX5 is for zero lights blacked out room. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> You have to decide what you value more. More detail, better contrast and black levels or more brightness. The larger the screen the more impact on both choices. The 6050 has impressive detail, contrast and black levels. But not as good as the JVC. If your room is blacked out the JVC differences will really shine through. If your room has more ambient light the benefits of the JVC begin to diminish. If you primarily watch movies the NX5 will once again shine under the right conditions. For sports viewing you really will not miss the black levels, contrast and detail. You will really appreciate the extra brightness of the 6050 and the ability to have lights on while viewing sports. NX5 is for zero lights blacked out room.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Of course. There's pros and cons here for sure. The JVC will be better with motion in your sports example. Ambient light the sheer output of the Epson is going to win, but you'll have to use high bulb (and the noise that comes with it) and brighter less accurate modes to really see a huge difference. 

One thing to add on the brightness equation, if you happen to be using a wider AR screen in conjunction with lens memory (or installation modes as JVC terms them) the 17:9 panel can be put full use and gain a sizable brightness increase. Over 10% more light can be observed with Scope material. Which would put it fairly close to the Epson calibrated in medium bulb in that use case. Obviously if you're only using a 16:9 screen this isn't applicable.

Again this isn't saying either of the Epson models is a poor choice. Just that the 6050 and NX5 are close enough in price in the US that you should cross shop them.


----------



## biglen

Biggydeen said:


> Well it looks white but it does not look sharp. For example, the - bar on the letter T supposed to be 2 white pixels wide. But when i'm trying to focus the picture the - bar becomes either washed out a little bit or becomes 3 pixels wide. So the picure is never sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> From a distance (3.5m from 120inch) this looks sharp but it's not. It's like blinking with your eyes every time to look if it's sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using a PC as a source. So that might explain it. But when feeding a 4k signal (is that the same when setting the resolution on the pc to 4k?) the picure becomes very blurry. I hardly can read the clock in the bottom right corner.
> 
> 
> 
> But when playing the "costa rica 4k" on youtube it does look great. But when playing 4k movies it just looks not sharp enough for some reason.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, upscaling 1080p with the image enhancement does not seem to do much. As this projector is native 1080p with upscaling to 4k, 1080p movies should be no problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe i'm very sensative to these kind of projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you can and also tried this extensively. But this has some very mixed results. What happens is the following:
> 
> 
> 
> When aligning you can align two or three colors. The green is fixed. So you can align the red on the green. The blue on the green. Or the red and the blue at the same time.
> 
> 
> 
> But, the line being displayed is not 1 or 2 pixels wide. It looks washed out. When i'm mis aligning the red for example it's a clear red line of 1 pixel wide. But when I align the red pixel line back on the green line the color becomes washed out. Like the red is comming out on the top of the green line but also on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> So no matter how much I align, the line always becomes washed out.
> 
> 
> 
> This unit seems better then the last one though. But unfortunatly this one also has a dead pixel...
> 
> 
> 
> Will try some more testing today. Never noticed this on my old Benq w1070. That one just looked very sharp.
> 
> 
> 
> P.s. some other projectors i'm looking at are the benq w5700 (but it's 500 euro more then the Epson so that's prob a no go.) and the optoma UHD65 which is 200 euro's more then the Epson (2200 euro). Prob will go for the Optoma.


Where do you do that aligning? Is that in the options menu?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Where do you do that aligning? Is that in the options menu?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Page 89 of the user manual has the instructions for panel alignment 









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

dimi123 said:


> Set the PC to 3840x2160p, 12bpc, YCbCr 4:2:2, 60Hz and 250% internal scaling. Image Enhancement on the PJ to Preset 2 or 3. Then report back.


Question about the Image Enhancement presets based on this thread:
Are they preconfigured by Epson or are they presets users need to create? If they're by Epson is there a list somewhere that shows what the differences are? Didn't see that in the manual. Was thrown by the recommendation above to set it to preset 2 or 3 if those aren't defaults.


Thanks very much


----------



## reechings

jeahrens said:


> Of course. There's pros and cons here for sure. The JVC will be better with motion in your sports example. Ambient light the sheer output of the Epson is going to win, but you'll have to use high bulb (and the noise that comes with it) and brighter less accurate modes to really see a huge difference.
> 
> 
> 
> One thing to add on the brightness equation, if you happen to be using a wider AR screen in conjunction with lens memory (or installation modes as JVC terms them) the 17:9 panel can be put full use and gain a sizable brightness increase. Over 10% more light can be observed with Scope material. Which would put it fairly close to the Epson calibrated in medium bulb in that use case. Obviously if you're only using a 16:9 screen this isn't applicable.
> 
> 
> 
> Again this isn't saying either of the Epson models is a poor choice. Just that the 6050 and NX5 are close enough in price in the US that you should cross shop them.


I'm in Canada so US prices don't apply too much. I'm looking at about 25-30% higher cost to get the NX-5 compared to the 6050 here.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

groggrog said:


> Question about the Image Enhancement presets based on this thread:
> Are they preconfigured by Epson or are they presets users need to create? If they're by Epson is there a list somewhere that shows what the differences are? Didn't see that in the manual. Was thrown by the recommendation above to set it to preset 2 or 3 if those aren't defaults.
> 
> 
> Thanks very much


Epson creates the preset image modes.This six-position control, with options for Off through Preset 5, adds increasing levels of detail as you step up. For 4K HDR, I prefer the Preset 2. Depending upon the quality of 1080p I use Preset 2 or 3. 

I find those settings as the best compromise between achieving 4K-like detail and over processing the image which makes edges look artificial and faces waxy. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dimi123

groggrog said:


> Question about the Image Enhancement presets based on this thread:
> Are they preconfigured by Epson or are they presets users need to create? If they're by Epson is there a list somewhere that shows what the differences are? Didn't see that in the manual. Was thrown by the recommendation above to set it to preset 2 or 3 if those aren't defaults.





skylarlove1999 said:


> Epson creates the preset image modes.This six-position control, with options for Off through Preset 5, adds increasing levels of detail as you step up. For 4K HDR, I prefer the Preset 2. Depending upon the quality of 1080p I use Preset 2 or 3.
> 
> I find those settings as the best compromise between achieving 4K-like detail and over processing the image which makes edges look artificial and faces waxy.


You can also modify those presets to your liking.


----------



## groggrog

dimi123 said:


> You can also modify those presets to your liking.



Ok thanks both...


----------



## DocOrange88

So while most people are super focus on sharpness, which I get and can appreciate between all the options I still feel color and DR/brightness is far more important. I sit about 20 feet from a 140" screen and I don't know that I can get a obvious improvement in sharpness no mater the projectors resolution. I do feel color contrast and over all brightness is critical. The adaptive iris is amazing also. If you really want to pixel pinch great but the reality is people will MOSTLY notice the color and the HDR pop, which seems like the 5050/6050 have in massive bounds. I own a 5050 so I might be bias. 

Lets not forget in almost all cases either the 5050/6050 or the other JVC offers NX5 or other Sony guys generally will always deliver a far better viewing experience than the average movie theater. From my personal perspective the 5050 is giving the same experience as a Dolby theater but at home.


----------



## plain fan

I'll be sitting no more than 11 feet from the screen and only projecting onto a 110 inch diagonal screen. Which is why I asked the question about the acoustically transparent screen. If the weave robs the image of lumens that might point me more towards the 5050/6050 option but if I'm sitting that close then the improvements from a true native 4k image may push me towards the NX5 (plus DTM).


----------



## skylarlove1999

plain fan said:


> I'll be sitting no more than 11 feet from the screen and only projecting onto a 110 inch diagonal screen. Which is why I asked the question about the acoustically transparent screen. If the weave robs the image of lumens that might point me more towards the 5050/6050 option but if I'm sitting that close then the improvements from a true native 4k image may push me towards the NX5 (plus DTM).


Any material that passes sound means it will also pass light. How much light loss depends on the material being used , woven vs. perforated. Woven generally has less light passing through than perforated. Have you chosen your AT screen and if so what is it?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

DocOrange88 said:


> So while most people are super focus on sharpness, which I get and can appreciate between all the options I still feel color and DR/brightness is far more important. I sit about 20 feet from a 140" screen and I don't know that I can get a obvious improvement in sharpness no mater the projectors resolution. I do feel color contrast and over all brightness is critical. The adaptive iris is amazing also. If you really want to pixel pinch great but the reality is people will MOSTLY notice the color and the HDR pop, which seems like the 5050/6050 have in massive bounds. I own a 5050 so I might be bias.
> 
> 
> 
> Lets not forget in almost all cases either the 5050/6050 or the other JVC offers NX5 or other Sony guys generally will always deliver a far better viewing experience than the average movie theater. From my personal perspective the 5050 is giving the same experience as a Dolby theater but at home.


Honestly, with my 5050, I can't even imagine a picture being better. I'm blown away every time I watch anything, and so are people who see it for the first time. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

It's not a new screen; it's the same one I was using for my 1080P Sony SXRD projector. I believe it's not woven but actually perforated. I'm not fully utilizing it as only my center channel is behind it and I could relocate it. It occurred to me recently that I might need to take into consideration my current screen or begin making plans for updating the screen along with the projector and disc player...


----------



## Bobby41

I have about 500 hours on the 5050ub now and I find that I have not been happy with the motion of the projector. I feel like anytime the camera moves I see it stutter. It happens on both my roku ultra and my apple TV 4k. I do have them both set to match framerate, and can confirm on the info that it is switching. It does not seem to matter what framerate it is on, it seems better at 60, but still a little weird. I had a Sony VPLHW40ES before this projector and only noticed stutter on very few scenes of fast camera panning, but I feel like I see it all the time with the Epson. I have skipped the reciever and it does not help any, and I have an optical active HDMI cable. Is this normal for the Epson? Or is there something wrong with my projector?


----------



## anilrao

Gellert said:


> As of now, I've only watched the opening scene of Gravity in 3D. That was very, very impressive. I own an ALR screen that's 1.3 gain. I have the Epson's iris permanently off in all modes because the screen literally disappears in my room with lights off. Lamp is set on the eco setting. The 3D glasses are Epson brand ($60 each) on eBay.
> 
> Lack of time hasn't allowed me to watch a full movie in 3D yet but Memorial day weekend will change that for the better.
> 
> It's very important that each eye doesn't pick up any images from the other side to get the best 3D effect. The Epson glasses are big and nerdy looking but I love them since they fit well over my prescription glasses and the nosepiece is adjustable. I haven't messed with any other settings like depth, brightness etc.
> 
> I'm a huge 3D fan, owning about 120 3D Blu-rays movies. If you are too, there's a great Facebook group of over 5,000 members that share information on where to buy them, any sales, etc. Just search for "3D Blu-ray movie enthusiast group".


Concerning the 3d performance of the 5050/6050;
How is the ghosting issue? I have a 5 year old Sharp Xv-z30000 dlp which has great 3d; very sharp picture with zero ghosting. What are your thoughts?
Thanks


----------



## agoldy

Hi - I'm a newb here and not even sure if I'm posting according to proper etiquette - apologies if not. I've had a 6050 for about a month new and have been enjoying the big screen experience but I'm not sure that it's displaying 4K source correctly. I'm hoping that you guys might be able to help me.

I have a Sony 1100es (which I'm not enjoying that much) that switches video sources and my only 4K source is an Amazon 4K FireTV Stick. When watching 4K UHD content I'm suspect that it's actually displaying in 4K. That said, I realize that the 6050 isn't a true 4K display so I'm not sure how I can confirm that the display is rendering 4K content optimally. 

When 4K content from the FireTV is "Paused" the display indicates the resolution. In my case, the display indicates 1080P. I'm curious if this is the intended behavior from the 6050? Also curious to know what the correct way to ensure that the display is rendering 4K content as it should - would love advice and direction.

I also have a 4K samsung display connected to the same system. I can change display of the same content. When I Pause the content on the 6050 the display indicates 1080P as described above. When I change the display to the Samsung and Pause the content the display says 4K UHD.

Anyway - I really appreciate any advice and direction from you all.

Thank you!


----------



## Luminated67

agoldy said:


> Hi - I'm a newb here and not even sure if I'm posting according to proper etiquette - apologies if not. I've had a 6050 for about a month new and have been enjoying the big screen experience but I'm not sure that it's displaying 4K source correctly. I'm hoping that you guys might be able to help me.
> 
> I have a Sony 1100es (which I'm not enjoying that much) that switches video sources and my only 4K source is an Amazon 4K FireTV Stick. When watching 4K UHD content I'm suspect that it's actually displaying in 4K. That said, I realize that the 6050 isn't a true 4K display so I'm not sure how I can confirm that the display is rendering 4K content optimally.
> 
> When 4K content from the FireTV is "Paused" the display indicates the resolution. In my case, the display indicates 1080P. I'm curious if this is the intended behavior from the 6050? Also curious to know what the correct way to ensure that the display is rendering 4K content as it should - would love advice and direction.
> 
> I also have a 4K samsung display connected to the same system. I can change display of the same content. When I Pause the content on the 6050 the display indicates 1080P as described above. When I change the display to the Samsung and Pause the content the display says 4K UHD.
> 
> Anyway - I really appreciate any advice and direction from you all.
> 
> Thank you!


I take it your's fire stick is connected to your AVR and you have an HDMI cables running to your TV and Projector?


----------



## Kelvin1000

A little off topic… but if you guys want to test out the colors of this projector, take a look at the Dark Crystal in 4K on Netflix. 

Simply amazing!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Bobby41 said:


> I have about 500 hours on the 5050ub now and I find that I have not been happy with the motion of the projector. I feel like anytime the camera moves I see it stutter. It happens on both my roku ultra and my apple TV 4k. I do have them both set to match framerate, and can confirm on the info that it is switching. It does not seem to matter what framerate it is on, it seems better at 60, but still a little weird. I had a Sony VPLHW40ES before this projector and only noticed stutter on very few scenes of fast camera panning, but I feel like I see it all the time with the Epson. I have skipped the reciever and it does not help any, and I have an optical active HDMI cable. Is this normal for the Epson? Or is there something wrong with my projector?


I would say I noticed the judder you're referring to on panning scenes like at the beginning of Xmen apocalypse when they are painting the camera over the sand it happens a couple times. I wouldn't say mine happens every time the camera moves but I definitely do notice it from time to time. It is hard to know if that is the original film or the projector so you would have to go watch those scenes on a display you know doesn't have any problem with judder to confirm whether it's your projector or the film itself.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

^Unfortunately @Bobby41 is coming from a brand that is much superior at dealing with judder than our Epson. Like yourself I very occasionally see it but it’s so rare as to not bother me but if you are sensitive to it the Epson might not be the best choice which is why I always suggest trying it out with a demo before buying.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> ^Unfortunately @Bobby41 is coming from a brand that is muck superior at dealing with judder than our Epson. Like yourself I very occasionally see it but it’s so rare as to not bother me but if you are sensitive to it the Epson might not be the best choice which is why I always suggest trying it out with a demo before buying.


100% agree Sony does a fantastic job with judder

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DocOrange88

plain fan said:


> I'll be sitting no more than 11 feet from the screen and only projecting onto a 110 inch diagonal screen. Which is why I asked the question about the acoustically transparent screen. If the weave robs the image of lumens that might point me more towards the 5050/6050 option but if I'm sitting that close then the improvements from a true native 4k image may push me towards the NX5 (plus DTM).


I am running Carls place nanoperf perforated, I'm not seeing any real loss that maters much, I think its about 7% but the gain of the rest makes up for it...technically I'm losing I guess 7 percent of the resolution also, I feel like the image is sharper however than woven so there is that.


----------



## DocOrange88

So for 3D, has anyone found a deal on compatible 3D glasses?


----------



## agoldy

Luminated67 said:


> I take it your's fire stick is connected to your AVR and you have an HDMI cables running to your TV and Projector?


Hi - 

Thank you for the reply! 

The 4K Firestick is connected to the AVR. From the AVR there are two HDMI cables running out - one HDMI to the Epson and one HDMI to the Samsung TV.


----------



## fredworld

DocOrange88 said:


> So for 3D, has anyone found a deal on compatible 3D glasses?



I recently purchased the last 6 sets of glasses for $45 from a different ebay vendor than those shown in the below link. They work great. Search around, there are others, too.



https://www.ebay.com/p/4x-OEM-3d-Gl...TV/2092139833?iid=254357572878&rt=nc&thm=5000


----------



## Luminated67

agoldy said:


> Hi -
> 
> Thank you for the reply!
> 
> The 4K Firestick is connected to the AVR. From the AVR there are two HDMI cables running out - one HDMI to the Epson and one HDMI to the Samsung TV.


Ok, I’m guessing the HDMI to the TV is less than 3M but the projector one is probably longer than 5m. If so then chances are you need to upgrade your HDMI to an Opti-HDMI for the projector.


----------



## agoldy

Luminated67 said:


> Ok, I’m guessing the HDMI to the TV is less than 3M but the projector one is probably longer than 5m. If so then chances are you need to upgrade your HDMI to an Opti-HDMI for the projector.


Hi - Thanks for the quick response. The HDMI to the TV is more than 5M but not as long as the HDMI to the projector. 

So, the FireTV display should note "4K UHD" on the pause screen?


----------



## Luminated67

agoldy said:


> Hi - Thanks for the quick response. The HDMI to the TV is more than 5M but not as long as the HDMI to the projector.
> 
> So, the FireTV display should note "4K UHD" on the pause screen?


If your HDMI to the projector is even greater than 5M then you DEFINITELY need an Opti-HDMI cable to display 4K content. This is your problem for sure.

Something like this should sort everything and as it’s from Amazon if it doesn’t you can always return it for a full refund. 

https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Fiber...&qid=1568753474&s=gateway&sprefix=optical+hdm

This is the brand I’m using.


----------



## agoldy

Luminated67 said:


> If your HDMI to the projector is even greater than 5M then you DEFINITELY need an Opti-HDMI cable to display 4K content. This is your problem for sure.
> 
> Something like this should sort everything and as it’s from Amazon if it doesn’t you can always return it for a full refund.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Fiber...&qid=1568753474&s=gateway&sprefix=optical+hdm
> 
> This is the brand I’m using.


Thank you so much! I'm glad that I know the problem ... but Ugh - now i have to explain to my wife that we need to cut the ceiling again for a new cable


----------



## Luminated67

agoldy said:


> Thank you so much! I'm glad that I know the problem ... but Ugh - now i have to explain to my wife that we need to cut the ceiling again for a new cable


Oh crap. Well this time try the cable first before you start on the ceiling.


----------



## biglen

agoldy said:


> Thank you so much! I'm glad that I know the problem ... but Ugh - now i have to explain to my wife that we need to cut the ceiling again for a new cable


Can't you pull the new cable through the ceiling, by taping it to the old cable?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

agoldy said:


> Hi - Thanks for the quick response. The HDMI to the TV is more than 5M but not as long as the HDMI to the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> So, the FireTV display should note "4K UHD" on the pause screen?


A quick check since the fire stick is wifi, plug it into your projector directly... It won't do sound so not a solution, but if it sorts the image etc.

You could run 1080p for Netflix or loose HDR, i don't think you can force 24p that UHDs use which is lower bandwidth! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## agoldy

Luminated67 said:


> Oh crap. Well this time try the cable first before you start on the ceiling.


Ha - Great point! I think that I'll do that. Doesn't make me super happy with the installer:| I'm waiting for his reply now --


----------



## agoldy

biglen said:


> Can't you pull the new cable through the ceiling, by taping it to the old cable?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


We may be able to pull a new cable through an expanse of the ceiling without having to cut it. We can probably access the hdmi by removing the center channel ceiling speaker. Then I can "send" the cable to the equipment closet which aligns with that ceiling bay. This could be the play.

I know that the installer also put one or two "just in case" Cat6 cables in addition to the HDMI. I was looking online and found that a company called Jtech makes a sender/receiver system that enables [email protected] over IP so this might be a solution in lieu of installing any new cable.

Are you familiar with this kind of hardware solution?

I honestly cannot wait to see how the image looks with 4K content! And also sort of relieved to know that this can all be solved without a terrible amount of cost.


----------



## anilrao

*Very close to pulling the trigger on the 6050ub, but...*

Hi guys,
Very close to moving towards the 6050ub but the thing that is holding me back is the 3D performance. My current PJ is a 5-year-old Sharp xv-z30000 DLP. There are deficiencies with any PJ but I will say that the Sharp has great 3D performance; very sharp and NO ghosting.
What has been your experience with the 6050 in this regard? 
My room is light controlled, very dark to black walls. 140" (2.35:1) Throw distance 16'6". Front row seating ~13'.
Thanks for the help; this forum has been a tremendous source of info, if a bit overwhelming.


----------



## Alaric

anilrao said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Very close to moving towards the 6050ub but the thing that is holding me back is the 3D performance. My current PJ is a 5-year-old Sharp xv-z30000 DLP. There are deficiencies with any PJ but I will say that the Sharp has great 3D performance; very sharp and NO ghosting.
> 
> What has been your experience with the 6050 in this regard?
> 
> My room is light controlled, very dark to black walls. 140" (2.35:1) Throw distance 16'6". Front row seating ~13'.
> 
> Thanks for the help; this forum has been a tremendous source of info, if a bit overwhelming.


It's a very bright and capable projector which certainly helps with 3D. My old Mitsubishi hc5 was terrible at 3D and i never made it through a film, I've watched dozens and have started to collect 3D film.
The quality of film varies though, Avatar and Judge Dredd were amazing. Disney Pixar are great too and have a setup bit on most in the settings to fine tune which helped.
3D Dynamic works better than Cinema mode for me and I've tried a few 3D glasses types too. I'd say very, very capable rather than perfect. 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

agoldy said:


> I know that the installer also put one or two "just in case" Cat6 cables in addition to the HDMI. I was looking online and found that a company called Jtech makes a sender/receiver system that enables [email protected] over IP so this might be a solution in lieu of installing any new cable.
> 
> Are you familiar with this kind of hardware solution?
> 
> I honestly cannot wait to see how the image looks with 4K content! And also sort of relieved to know that this can all be solved without a terrible amount of cost.



If you want actual 18 gb 4:2:2 / 4:4:4 - [email protected] hz you must choose the "HDMI Balen" you get carefully.


MANY many Cat5/Cat6 HDMI Balens say the do "4K" but they do not deliver 18 gb. Don't get one unless it's Amazon Prime. Easy returns. 



I recently installed such a system for a JVC NX9 whose 35'er HDMI just couldn't deliver the goods...despite what Monoprice claimed.


The outfit we used cost $360 for the Transmitter / Receiver Look for HDBaseT and make absolutely certain it supports HDR. They don't come priced under the high $300s. You must pay to play, but one that works is worth it. In your case...no Drywall opening & closing....or worse.


I checked out the Jtech unit that "says" it does HDR10 [email protected] hz...and it's over $100.00 less than the one below. If true, it's a bargain you can get *Right Here*



*Otherwise here is one that does what you want.*


----------



## anilrao

Alaric said:


> It's a very bright and capable projector which certainly helps with 3D. My old Mitsubishi hc5 was terrible at 3D and i never made it through a film, I've watched dozens and have started to collect 3D film.
> The quality of film varies though, Avatar and Judge Dredd were amazing. Disney Pixar are great too and have a setup bit on most in the settings to fine tune which helped.
> 3D Dynamic works better than Cinema mode for me and I've tried a few 3D glasses types too. I'd say very, very capable rather than perfect.
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Thanks. Would you say that there is some ghosting? If so to what extent?


----------



## agoldy

MississippiMan said:


> If you want actual 18 gb 4:2:2 / 4:4:4 - [email protected] hz you must choose the "HDMI Balen" you get carefully.
> 
> 
> MANY many Cat5/Cat6 HDMI Balens say the do "4K" but they do not deliver 18 gb. Don't get one unless it's Amazon Prime. Easy returns.
> 
> 
> 
> I recently installed such a system for a JVC NX9 whose 35'er HDMI just couldn't deliver the goods...despite what Monoprice claimed.
> 
> 
> The outfit we used cost $360 for the Transmitter / Receiver Look for HDBaseT and make absolutely certain it supports HDR. They don't come priced under the high $300s. You must pay to play, but one that works is worth it. In your case...no Drywall opening & closing....or worse.
> 
> 
> I checked out the Jtech unit that "says" it does HDR10 [email protected] hz...and it's over $100.00 less than the one below. If true, it's a bargain you can get *Right Here*
> 
> 
> 
> *Otherwise here is one that does what you want.*


Hi - Awesome help - Thanks!

This is what I found. It seems very similar to the Monoprice gear that you found and very similar price-point, too.

https://jtechdigital.com/?s=4K+over+IP&post_type=product&product_cat=0


----------



## anilrao

*Screen door on the 6050*

Is screen door an issue with this projector at 13' on a 140" screen?
Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

anilrao said:


> Is screen door an issue with this projector at 13' on a 140" screen?
> 
> Thanks.


Only if you plan on placing a screen door in front of your screen.  You really shouldn't have any SDE until around 4 feet from your screen and even then you really have to look for it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## anilrao

anilrao said:


> Is screen door an issue with this projector at 13' on a 140" screen?
> Thanks.


 Ha! Thank you!
I guess I'll have to see it in person.


----------



## Bobby41

Luminated67 said:


> ^Unfortunately is coming from a brand that is much superior at dealing with judder than our Epson. Like yourself I very occasionally see it but it’s so rare as to not bother me but if you are sensitive to it the Epson might not be the best choice which is why I always suggest trying it out with a demo before buying.



Ok, thanks for the input. I do feel like I see it all the time, not just occasionally. Even when someone is just moving there head back and forth in a scene it looks juddery. I might be more sensitive to it. Me and my wife are playing borderlands 3 and we have a very cheap 48 inch tv set up beside us for her to play on and it look much smoother then our new expensive projector. I guess you can say I have some buyers remorse.


----------



## biglen

anilrao said:


> Thanks. Would you say that there is some ghosting? If so to what extent?


I definitely saw some ghosting on a couple 3D movies. It could be my glasses, or maybe some settings need tweaking. @Alaric can you share the 3D settings you use?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



agoldy said:


> Hi - Awesome help - Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I found. It seems very similar to the Monoprice gear that you found and very similar price-point, too.
> 
> 
> 
> https://jtechdigital.com/?s=4K+over+IP&post_type=product&product_cat=0




I had some random handshake issues with various sources when I was using a fiber optic cables which went away completely when I switched to this Blue Jeans Series-3A Active HDMI Cable:

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/series3a.htm

This “active” cable has been absolutely flawless at 40 feet with 4K HDR 60FPS 4:4:4 and every other resolution I have thrown at it.

Definitely worth the purchase!


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Quick question on contrast and brightness settings.

Should these settings be the same for sdr and hdr ? It's my understanding that hdr does not make a blacker black, or bright white but rather able to hit the darker and lighter set points in an image.

I'm using calibration settings posted online, but setting brightness and contrast myself based on my set up, ensuring they are not clipping high/low.


----------



## Alaric

biglen said:


> I definitely saw some ghosting on a couple 3D movies. It could be my glasses, or maybe some settings need tweaking. @Alaric can you share the 3D settings you use?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Sharing 3D settings is a bit tricky unfortunately, because whilst you have machine and room variations for normal calibration settings, you also add a MASSIVE glasses difference into 3D - i measured the 4 types I have access to and compiled their differences

https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home#h.p_h2TAAgBxgZpV

You would get a massive skew if you used a different pair to what i've calibrated mine to. You can to some extent port across your SDR settings as 3D is basically a tweaked 1080p SDR set-up. Adding glasses and not calibrating to the glasses would give you an even colour skew at least!

As for ghosting. The best thing I did was dig out a Disney/Pixar 3D film that had the Maximizer on it. One of the screens has a Buzz & Woody which you view with different eyes whilst tweaking settings. I found Dynamic had way less than Cinema on mine, but you can also go through and tweak the various settings to reduce ghosting. It's pretty quick and easy to do and will give you better settings for your PJ!


----------



## DocOrange88

anilrao said:


> Is screen door an issue with this projector at 13' on a 140" screen?
> Thanks.


I'm running mine on a 140" nanoperf screen no issues here. It's super bright and crisp.


----------



## Luminated67

Bobby41 said:


> Ok, thanks for the input. I do feel like I see it all the time, not just occasionally. Even when someone is just moving there head back and forth in a scene it looks juddery. I might be more sensitive to it. Me and my wife are playing borderlands 3 and we have a very cheap 48 inch tv set up beside us for her to play on and it look much smoother then our new expensive projector. I guess you can say I have some buyers remorse.


I must admit I’m too old to game so have never used mine for this. It’s a shame that the Epson isn’t working for you, how old is it, would it be possible to return to store and swap for something different?


----------



## biglen

Bobby41 said:


> Ok, thanks for the input. I do feel like I see it all the time, not just occasionally. Even when someone is just moving there head back and forth in a scene it looks juddery. I might be more sensitive to it. Me and my wife are playing borderlands 3 and we have a very cheap 48 inch tv set up beside us for her to play on and it look much smoother then our new expensive projector. I guess you can say I have some buyers remorse.


That's weird. I play Call of Duty on my PS4, it's really smooth, and with no lag. Even my son, who is a HARDCORE gamer, commented on how good the 5050 handled video games. He even said the 5050 performs better than my Sony XBR that I had before the 5050. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

Chris Corcoran said:


> Quick question on contrast and brightness settings.
> 
> Should these settings be the same for sdr and hdr ? It's my understanding that hdr does not make a blacker black, or bright white but rather able to hit the darker and lighter set points in an image.
> 
> I'm using calibration settings posted online, but setting brightness and contrast myself based on my set up, ensuring they are not clipping high/low.


I just purchased and used the Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark Disc. What a cool resource.

Their recommendation is to set contrast and brightness separately for sdr and hdr, and to NOT change contrast for hdr (leave it at the default 50 setting).

However, some of the calibration settings posted online include contrast settings for hdr that are different than 50.

In any case, brightness and contrast (for sdr) are room-specific, so you should be setting those yourself.

The question to me and others is: do I leave contrast (50) alone for hdr, as per the recommendation of Spears & Munsil??

I'd appreciate discussion/input from others.


----------



## vidwiz

I have two 45 footers, 90' total of these and works fine, 4k hdr.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=301&cp_id=30101&cs_id=3010101&p_id=12737&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Luminated67

dr bill said:


> I just purchased and used the Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark Disc. What a cool resource.
> 
> Their recommendation is to set contrast and brightness separately for sdr and hdr, and to NOT change contrast for hdr (leave it at the default 50 setting).
> 
> However, some of the calibration settings posted online include contrast settings for hdr that are different than 50.
> 
> In any case, brightness and contrast (for sdr) are room-specific, so you should be setting those yourself.
> 
> The question to me and others is: do I leave contrast (50) alone for hdr, as per the recommendation of Spears & Munsil??
> 
> I'd appreciate discussion/input from others.


After Gordon calibrated mine both SDR and HDR are at 50/50 on both Brightness and Contrast so I concur with that. I’m not not saying every calibration or projector will allows these setting to remain like this but mine definitely stayed at this.


----------



## Luminated67

vidwiz said:


> I have two 45 footers, 90' total of these and works fine, 4k hdr.
> 
> https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=301&cp_id=30101&cs_id=3010101&p_id=12737&seq=1&format=2


This is an Optic-HDMI so yep this should work regardless of length.


----------



## vidwiz

Luminated67 said:


> This is an Optic-HDMI so yep this should work regardless of length.


Nowhere does the description mention optical and the price reflects that. Just active high speed.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> This is an Optic-HDMI so yep this should work regardless of length.


Just an active cable. I bought one. Didn't work for me. YMMV. Had to go with Fiber Optic HDMI cable. That worked.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Just an active cable. I bought one. Didn't work for me. YMMV. Had to go with Fiber Optic HDMI cable. That worked.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I must admit when I saw source on one end I was sure it must have been an Opti cable.


----------



## Luminated67

vidwiz said:


> Nowhere does the description mention optical and the price reflects that. Just active high speed.


I don’t see that big of a difference between $42 and the $55 of a true Optical HDMI like the ATZEBE.

https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Fiber...&qid=1568753474&s=gateway&sprefix=optical+hdm


----------



## vidwiz

Thats a good price!


----------



## anilrao

Alaric said:


> It's a very bright and capable projector which certainly helps with 3D. My old Mitsubishi hc5 was terrible at 3D and i never made it through a film, I've watched dozens and have started to collect 3D film.
> The quality of film varies though, Avatar and Judge Dredd were amazing. Disney Pixar are great too and have a setup bit on most in the settings to fine tune which helped.
> 3D Dynamic works better than Cinema mode for me and I've tried a few 3D glasses types too. I'd say very, very capable rather than perfect.
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Thank you. That is very helpful. Still need to see one in action.


----------



## groggrog

dr bill said:


> I just purchased and used the Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark Disc. What a cool resource.
> 
> Their recommendation is to set contrast and brightness separately for sdr and hdr, and to NOT change contrast for hdr (leave it at the default 50 setting).
> 
> However, some of the calibration settings posted online include contrast settings for hdr that are different than 50.
> 
> In any case, brightness and contrast (for sdr) are room-specific, so you should be setting those yourself.
> 
> The question to me and others is: do I leave contrast (50) alone for hdr, as per the recommendation of Spears & Munsil??
> 
> I'd appreciate discussion/input from others.



I've been looking at the Spears & Munsil disc for calibrating my 5050UB as well. Since you've tried it, how did you find it for the novice? I saw that instructions aren't included on the disc but are on the website. Besides the brightness and contract stuff you described, did you have trouble translating what's in the instructions to making adjustments on the 5050UB? Appreciate any insight you can provide.
Thanks


----------



## R o d

Just to clarify, if you’re running fairly short cable lengths, say 3-6 feet, fiber optic HDMI is overkill. Is that correct?


----------



## Viche

Bobby41 said:


> Ok, thanks for the input. I do feel like I see it all the time, not just occasionally. Even when someone is just moving there head back and forth in a scene it looks juddery. I might be more sensitive to it. Me and my wife are playing borderlands 3 and we have a very cheap 48 inch tv set up beside us for her to play on and it look much smoother then our new expensive projector. I guess you can say I have some buyers remorse.


Are you sure you're getting 60fps over your cable?


----------



## skylarlove1999

R o d said:


> Just to clarify, if you’re running fairly short cable lengths, say 3-6 feet, fiber optic HDMI is overkill. Is that correct?


Yes. Really only over 20 ft is fiber optic really needed for 4K/60FPS 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

dr bill said:


> I am.
> 
> http://www.seymourav.com/default.asp
> 
> 150" Center Stage XD single layer Precision frame.
> 
> Probably a close second to the 5050, in terms of best upgrades to my home theater.


I am considering the XD for my 6050. 150" width or diagonal? 16:9 or scope? What's your viewing distance and throw? Thanks.


----------



## dr bill

groggrog said:


> I've been looking at the Spears & Munsil disc for calibrating my 5050UB as well. Since you've tried it, how did you find it for the novice? I saw that instructions aren't included on the disc but are on the website. Besides the brightness and contract stuff you described, did you have trouble translating what's in the instructions to making adjustments on the 5050UB? Appreciate any insight you can provide.
> Thanks


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...sil-uhd-hdr-benchmark-disc-discussion-17.html

As a novice, I am a little overwhelmed with everything it can do. So far, I have checked focus, brightness and contrast (in sdr). There's hours of other things to check, including some audio settings. Just scrated the surface so far...


----------



## dr bill

BIC2 said:


> I am considering the XD for my 6050. 150" width or diagonal? 16:9 or scope? What's your viewing distance and throw? Thanks.


149.2" diagonal, 16:9, viewing distance is 15' - 18'. No complaints.

Makes the front of the room look very clean when you walk into the room - just a big, bright screen on the wall. Where those front speakers?!?


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## tsharp

Latest victim of the dust blob. It's just something that can't be unseen! Called Epson and refurbished unit is on its way


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

tsharp said:


> Latest victim of the dust blob. It's just something that can't be unseen! Called Epson and refurbished unit is on its way
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Really sorry to hear about that I know the LCD panels need to be cooled off in order for them to perform optimally so they can't seal the light path but there has to be something else they can do.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## John Budny

*Fan noise*

Hoping to get some opinions on fan noise. 

I've been using a 5040UB in our media room for roughly 3 years. During those 3 years, fan noise was never an issue, let alone a thought while watching movies. We purchased the 5050UB to replace the 5040UB to up our HDR game. The first unit had a dead pixel so Epson replaced it with a new unit which I just installed two days ago. Within the first 10 minutes of watching SDR content, my wife and I both commented on how loud the fan sounded on the new projector. Last night I watched HDR content for the first time (in Digital Cinema with high lamp) and the fan noise was crazy loud. To make matters worse, after watching the movie I turned some TV on and shortly after doing so the projector turned off on its own. I turned the projector back on, the fan ran on turbo mode for a couple of minutes then the projector returned to "normal" operation and remained on for the remaining hour or that we were watching TV.

So... What is "acceptable" decibel levels for the fan on the 5050? My 5040 and first 5050 were nowhere near as loud as this new unit. Is it possible I have a bad fan? Could this account for the unit turning off on its own, was that a heat issue? Has anyone connected with Epson regarding fan noise, a dead pixel was easy to demonstrate for warranty purposes, a loud fan?


----------



## skylarlove1999

John Budny said:


> Hoping to get some opinions on fan noise.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been using a 5040UB in our media room for roughly 3 years. During those 3 years, fan noise was never an issue, let alone a thought while watching movies. We purchased the 5050UB to replace the 5040UB to up our HDR game. The first unit had a dead pixel so Epson replaced it with a new unit which I just installed two days ago. Within the first 10 minutes of watching SDR content, my wife and I both commented on how loud the fan sounded on the new projector. Last night I watched HDR content for the first time (in Digital Cinema with high lamp) and the fan noise was crazy loud. To make matters worse, after watching the movie I turned some TV on and shortly after doing so the projector turned off on its own. I turned the projector back on, the fan ran on turbo mode for a couple of minutes then the projector returned to "normal" operation and remained on for the remaining hour or that we were watching TV.
> 
> 
> 
> So... What is "acceptable" decibel levels for the fan on the 5050? My 5040 and first 5050 were nowhere near as loud as this new unit. Is it possible I have a bad fan? Could this account for the unit turning off on its own, was that a heat issue? Has anyone connected with Epson regarding fan noise, a dead pixel was easy to demonstrate for warranty purposes, a loud fan?


The fan should never be that loud either in Eco or even Medium. High lamp it will be louder but your surround sound system should really drown out the fan in all but quiet scenes. Sounds like you have a defective unit. The fan should never run in Turbo mode for ten minutes. The projector shut off because the fan couldn't keep up with the need to cool off the unit. Take a video next time it changes colors on the side and powers off. That should do it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## BIC2

The 6050 spec sheet says 2600 lumens. Is that in high bulb mode? Using the calculator at Projector Central. Are the fL specs also in high bulb mode? If so, any way to calculate fL for low & medium bulb? Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> The 6050 spec sheet says 2600 lumens. Is that in high bulb mode? Using the calculator at Projector Central. Are the fL specs also in high bulb mode? If so, any way to calculate fL for low & medium bulb? Thanks.


Yes the foot Lamberts at projector Central are using the highest possible lamp mode for those calculations. Each lamp can be higher or lower just based upon standard allowances for manufacturing fluctuations. Also your throw distance room conditions and screen material have an effect on how many foot Lamberts actually show up on your screen so really foot Lamberts are just a guide not an absolute. Digital Cinema mode places a filter in front to achieve the highest possible percentage of the DCP 3 color space so you are likely getting less than 1300 lumens with the filter in place and I still think you can achieve great HDR results in that mode depending upon your room conditions throw distance and screen material.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## BIC2

Maybe things have changed, but I seem to recall in years past, projectors kept the cooling fan running for several minutes after turning the bulb off. I've been running my 6050 in Eco (low) so far and the fan turns off with the bulb. I go to Standby and immediately to Off. I presume if it needs further cooling, the fan would stay on. Or, do I need to leave it in Standby for a few minutes to cool off? Thanks.


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## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> Maybe things have changed, but I seem to recall in years past, projectors kept the cooling fan running for several minutes after turning the bulb off. I've been running my 6050 in Eco (low) so far and the fan turns off with the bulb. I go to Standby and immediately to Off. I presume if it needs further cooling, the fan would stay on. Or, do I need to leave it in Standby for a few minutes to cool off? Thanks.


I have been running my 6050 in High lamp mode using a digital cinema filter for up to eight hours at a time and my projector turns off within seconds of me shutting it down and I have been doing so since early May and I have not experienced any negative effects. My 6500 UB projector from Epson made Circa 2009 definitely took longer to cool down after I shut the projector off and the fan would still be running. I have to assume that it cools down the projector while I'm watching a movie which is why and high lamp mode the fan sounds a bit louder.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## BIC2

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes the foot Lamberts at projector Central are using the highest possible lamp mode for those calculations. Each lamp can be higher or lower just based upon standard allowances for manufacturing fluctuations. Also your throw distance room conditions and screen material have an effect on how many foot Lamberts actually show up on your screen so really foot Lamberts are just a guide not an absolute. Digital Cinema mode places a filter in front to achieve the highest possible percentage of the DCP 3 color space so you are likely getting less than 1300 lumens with the filter in place and I still think you can achieve great HDR results in that mode depending upon your room conditions throw distance and screen material.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Wondering about Seymour Center Stage UF (0.8 tested gain) vs XD (.094 tested gain) with about 26fL vs 30fL. If that's in High mode, guess I should go with the higher gain with hopes of running at Low or Medium bulb to keep fan noise down & extend bulb life. Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> Wondering about Seymour Center Stage UF (0.8 tested gain) vs XD (.094 tested gain) with about 26fL vs 30fL. If that's in High mode, guess I should go with the higher gain with hopes of running at Low or Medium bulb to keep fan noise down & extend bulb life. Thanks.


I find I can watch all SDR content in ECO. which still makes up 60% of my viewing content. For HDR I use Digital Cinema and High lamp. Which means am using the lamp at an average of Medium lamp. I would go with the slightly higher gain screen and see what lamp settings are best to your eyes once the screen is set up. You got a replacement lamp with the 6050. Replacement lamps are also fairly inexpensive. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## anilrao

Hi guys,
Can someone explain how the blanking function works on the 6050?
Is it extensive enough to mask out the overspill when watching a 2.35:1 AR?
I will likely be seeing a demo within the next week or so.
Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

anilrao said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Can someone explain how the blanking function works on the 6050?
> 
> Is it extensive enough to mask out the overspill when watching a 2.35:1 AR?
> 
> I will likely be seeing a demo within the next week or so.
> 
> Thanks.


The lamp is still on when you do the blanking. It will not reduce the black bars when watching scope movies on a 16x9 screen. Only masking will do that. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DocOrange88

skylarlove1999 said:


> I find I can watch all SDR content in ECO. which still makes up 60% of my viewing content. For HDR I use Digital Cinema and High lamp. Which means am using the lamp at an average of Medium lamp. I would go with the slightly higher gain screen and see what lamp settings are best to your eyes once the screen is set up. You got a replacement lamp with the 6050. Replacement lamps are also fairly inexpensive.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I do this exact setup on my 5050.


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## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> The lamp is still on when you do the blanking. It will not reduce the black bars when watching scope movies on a 16x9 screen. Only masking will do that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Because the post mentions overspill if you are talking about zooming with lens memory to fill a 2.35:1 screen, the overspill on the wall from the Epson should not be visible unless the wall is painted a glossy bright color. The masking function is just telling the specified pixels to show "black" so it's no darker than black is normally, but it is effective if you have a scope screen and want to avoid shifting aspect ratios (and the subsequent overspill) on the handful of IMAX titles out there.


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## anilrao

jeahrens said:


> Because the post mentions overspill if you are talking about zooming with lens memory to fill a 2.35:1 screen, the overspill on the wall from the Epson should not be visible unless the wall is painted a glossy bright color. The masking function is just telling the specified pixels to show "black" so it's no darker than black is normally, but it is effective if you have a scope screen and want to avoid shifting aspect ratios (and the subsequent overspill) on the handful of IMAX titles out there.


Yes, I think I may have misstated and misled sylarlove 1999. Sorry. I was actually referring the to variable aspect ratio movies (Interstellar, The Dark Knight) and how to deal with the issue on a 2.35:1 screen. So essentially the pixels in the overspill area on a scope image can be blanked and I won’t perceive an image when it shifts to 16x9?
Thanks.


----------



## BIC2

anilrao said:


> Hi guys,
> Can someone explain how the blanking function works on the 6050?
> Is it extensive enough to mask out the overspill when watching a 2.35:1 AR?
> I will likely be seeing a demo within the next week or so.
> Thanks.


I'm working with a temp screen or the wall while I figure out my permanent screen, but I think the blanking is equal to top/bottom or side bars in "blackness." I was hoping they would make masking panels unnecessary, but don't think that's the case. For minor issues, 2.35 vs 2.39, should be OK. The manual doesn't even claim aspect masking is the objective.


----------



## jeahrens

anilrao said:


> Yes, I think I may have misstated and misled sylarlove 1999. Sorry. I was actually referring the to variable aspect ratio movies (Interstellar, The Dark Knight) and how to deal with the issue on a 2.35:1 screen. So essentially the pixels in the overspill area on a scope image can be blanked and I won’t perceive an image when it shifts to 16x9?
> Thanks.


If Epson's blanking works the same as JVC's this would be correct. I'd assume it does as it wouldn't be all that useful otherwise.


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## jeahrens

BIC2 said:


> I'm working with a temp screen or the wall while I figure out my permanent screen, but I think the blanking is equal to top/bottom or side bars in "blackness." I was hoping they would make masking panels unnecessary, but don't think that's the case. For minor issues, 2.35 vs 2.39, should be OK. The manual doesn't even claim aspect masking is the objective.


In the discussion with Mississippiman he brought up that the Epson has enough light leakage around the lens to make masking the pillarbox area necessary. Other designs without light leakage won't require masking in the pillarbox area as they aren't lit by the panel. For example on my last 3 JVCs I've never needed masking as the pillarboxing has no light hitting it. Still pillarbox masking isn't a huge deal. Though since the NX5 streets for roughly 10% more than the 6050, it'd be worth considering. Not having to mask in today's world of odd aspect ratios is nice. I have presets for 1.78:1 (16:9), 1.85:1, 2.00:1, 2.20:1 and 2.35:1 and now I'm hearing some stuff is coming out in 2.10:1. Thank goodness there's a lot of installation mode/lens memory slots! Still a sliding pillarbox mask for the 5050/6050 wouldn't be hard to setup.


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## anilrao

jeahrens said:


> If Epson's blanking works the same as JVC's this would be correct. I'd assume it does as it wouldn't be all that useful otherwise.


Thanks. Very helpful.


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## DocOrange88

Maybe I'm weird but I've set my screen to allow for between 2:1 or 1:85:1 aspect ratio allowing a lot of things to just work well and fill the screen. I do switch my settings between wider screen and 16:9


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## jeahrens

DocOrange88 said:


> Maybe I'm weird but I've set my screen to allow for between 2:1 or 1:85:1 aspect ratio allowing a lot of things to just work well and fill the screen. I do switch my settings between wider screen and 16:9


You lost me on that. Do you mean you have a 2.00:1 screen?


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## DocOrange88

jeahrens said:


> You lost me on that. Do you mean you have a 2.00:1 screen?


Pretty much, Both Jurassic World and Back to the Future exactly fill my screen. Technically my screen is 16:9 but it's framed to ~2:1.


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## jeahrens

DocOrange88 said:


> Pretty much, Both Jurassic World and Back to the Future exactly fill my screen. Technically my screen is 16:9 but it's framed to ~2:1.


So it should have slight letterboxing then. Otherwise you are using a combination of blanking and zoom to crop out actual picture data. If it's the latter you should not be doing this. From an artistic standpoint you've killed the frame composition, from a practical standpoint you will have instances where you're cropping out needed parts of the frame. DON'T DO THIS. If you want to watch wider films as they were meant to be seen, buy a wider AR screen. Don't chop up material just to fit an aspect ratio invented for TV.


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## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> So it should have slight letterboxing then. Otherwise you are using a combination of blanking and zoom to crop out actual picture data. If it's the latter you should not be doing this. From an artistic standpoint you've killed the frame composition, from a practical standpoint you will have instances where you're cropping out needed parts of the frame. DON'T DO THIS. If you want to watch wider films as they were meant to be seen, buy a wider AR screen. Don't chop up material just to fit an aspect ratio invented for TV.


Cable and network television have cropped movies for decades. I do agree it takes away from the cinematic experience but I don't know if admonishing other forum members is our job. I hope people view the movie as it was intended but to each his own.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> Cable and network television have cropped movies for decades. I do agree it takes away from the cinematic experience but I don't know if admonishing other forum members is our job. I hope people view the movie as it was intended but to each his own.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Well I would hope that we'd try to educate and point out the artistic and practical issues with cropping films. Sometimes an admonishment is warranted. For those of us that have been involved in this hobby back when "Pan and Scan" was the norm it's particularly painful to see the battle for Hollywood to quit chopping off large portions of our films won only to see the "black bars suck" crowd essentially chopping it back off to fit their display. I know cable and network TV still does it. It's painfully apparent when they do and the end result is ugly.

You don't suddenly have a 2.00:1 display by chopping off material to fit your 16:9 screen. You have a 16:9 screen with a part of a movie playing on it.


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## DocOrange88

jeahrens said:


> So it should have slight letterboxing then. Otherwise you are using a combination of blanking and zoom to crop out actual picture data. If it's the latter you should not be doing this. From an artistic standpoint you've killed the frame composition, from a practical standpoint you will have instances where you're cropping out needed parts of the frame. DON'T DO THIS. If you want to watch wider films as they were meant to be seen, buy a wider AR screen. Don't chop up material just to fit an aspect ratio invented for TV.


I don't crop anything that's the benefit of our projector the 5050, lens settings for different frames ratios. I can pretty much max out the benefits of all sizes(with the space I have) but obviously I get the use my screen when its a 2:1 image. I have a setting at the moment one for 2:1 or 2.4:1(My screen can't get any wider) and then one for 16:9.


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## DocOrange88

jeahrens said:


> Well I would hope that we'd try to educate and point out the artistic and practical issues with cropping films. Sometimes an admonishment is warranted. For those of us that have been involved in this hobby back when "Pan and Scan" was the norm it's particularly painful to see the battle for Hollywood to quit chopping off large portions of our films won only to see the "black bars suck" crowd essentially chopping it back off to fit their display. I know cable and network TV still does it. It's painfully apparent when they do and the end result is ugly.
> 
> You don't suddenly have a 2.00:1 display by chopping off material to fit your 16:9 screen. You have a 16:9 screen with a part of a movie playing on it.


I am a filmmaker you can watch my movie on Amazon Prime it's called "InSpectres"

I can assure you I am extremely anal when it comes to these types of things. InSpectres ran in theaters and I had to create a DCP file for the cinema so mastering it for in a 2K DCP with 5.1 surround sound. InSpectres was shot in 16:9 but was later cropped and re-framed because sadly most theatrical settings make better use of 2.4:1 than they do 16:9 or in my case it would have had to been cropped to 1:85:1 anyway.

A lot of films are typical shot with head room and later re-framed to the desired aspect ratio.

I kind of fell in love with the 2:1 aspect ratio as I felt it was a perfect compromise after seeing Jurassic World. So I set out to get a screen that had that aspect ratio as I felt I would get more out of my space.

You are completely fine I feel your concern and I can assure you I've gone though great lengths to get the most out of my space and not lose an ounce of the frame or sound. Check out my home theater build link in my signature.

I just wanted to add I hate how cable TV movies crop stuff one of the major reasons I don't like cable, tired of that junk. Then again who wants to stream a 720P movie in stereo that is compressed to hell from a cable provider, especially when its going to 7.1.4 Atmos and a 5050UB?


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> Well I would hope that we'd try to educate and point out the artistic and practical issues with cropping films. Sometimes an admonishment is warranted. For those of us that have been involved in this hobby back when "Pan and Scan" was the norm it's particularly painful to see the battle for Hollywood to quit chopping off large portions of our films won only to see the "black bars suck" crowd essentially chopping it back off to fit their display. I know cable and network TV still does it. It's painfully apparent when they do and the end result is ugly.
> 
> 
> 
> You don't suddenly have a 2.00:1 display by chopping off material to fit your 16:9 screen. You have a 16:9 screen with a part of a movie playing on it.


I am all for educating and advocating for movies being seen in the manner in which the director intended. I am still troubled by the thinking that " admonishment is warranted ". It sounds elitist and arrogant to me to assert that someone has to enjoy movies in the manner in which you find the most appealing. What about people who tweak their center channel decibels to dialogue clarification? Or the bassheads who turn up the bass because they want to feel it? Giving your opinion is one thing. Telling people what they can or cannot do is not why this forum was started. It could actually have the opposite affect where you can no longer have them hear your opinion because they tune you out because you position yourself as the authority. Sorry for taking the thread off topic. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

DocOrange88 said:


> I don't crop anything that's the benefit of our projector the 5050, lens settings for different frames ratios. I can pretty much max out the benefits of all sizes(with the space I have) but obviously I get the use my screen when its a 2:1 image. I have a setting at the moment one for 2:1 or 2.4:1(My screen can't get any wider) and then one for 16:9.


Maybe I'm misunderstanding you. You can't fit aspect ratios wider than 16:9 uncropped into that area without letterboxing. If you are filling the vertical height of the 16:9 with these wider aspect ratios, then you are cutting off parts of the film or the edges of the frame is spilling off the screen.


----------



## DocOrange88

jeahrens said:


> Maybe I'm misunderstanding you. You can't fit aspect ratios wider than 16:9 uncropped into that area without letterboxing. If you are filling the vertical height of the 16:9 with these wider aspect ratios, then you are cutting off parts of the film or the edges of the frame is spilling off the screen.


Correct, I have a lens setting that adjusts the zoom so I don't cut the top and bottom off. I do lose some screen area obviously on the sides when its 16:9 but I'm not cutting the image off.


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am all for educating and advocating for movies being seen in the manner in which the director intended. I am still troubled by the thinking that " admonishment is warranted ". It sounds elitist and arrogant to me to assert that someone has to enjoy movies in the manner in which you find the most appealing. What about people who tweak their center channel decibels to dialogue clarification? Or the bassheads who turn up the bass because they want to feel it? Giving your opinion is one thing. Telling people what they can or cannot do is not why this forum was started. It could actually have the opposite affect where you can no longer have them hear your opinion because they tune you out because you position yourself as the authority. Sorry for taking the thread off topic.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


If you want to let cropping film get a pass, you entitled to that stance. Just remember, the "why doesn't this fit my screen crowd" can potentially drown out those of us who want to see the entire film if we let them. Which puts us right back to having to dig and scrape to find unmolested copies of films. They are still out there and unfortunately ignorant on film aspect ratios, what they mean and why they matter.

Changing the volume doesn't delete the dialogue. Cropping the picture destroys the composition. I'm all for trying to educate and encourage. But there are instances where you may feel that you have to make more than a suggestion on something. As someone who struggled through the Pan and Scan era, this just isn't an area where I feel you can let the "fill my screen crowd" get a pass. If a person understands the damage they are doing to the composition of the film in the quest to rid themselves of "black bars", then there's not a whole lot I can do about it. But I can at least try to tell them why they shouldn't and do my best to discourage the practice. And I certainly will.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> If you want to let cropping film get a pass, you entitled to that stance. Just remember, the "why doesn't this fit my screen crowd" can potentially drown out those of us who want to see the entire film if we let them. Which puts us right back to having to dig and scrape to find unmolested copies of films. They are still out there and unfortunately ignorant on film aspect ratios, what they mean and why they matter.
> 
> 
> 
> Changing the volume doesn't delete the dialogue. Cropping the picture destroys the composition. I'm all for trying to educate and encourage. But there are instances where you may feel that you have to make more than a suggestion on something. As someone who struggled through the Pan and Scan era, this just isn't an area where I feel you can let the "fill my screen crowd" get a pass. If a person understands the damage they are doing to the composition of the film in the quest to rid themselves of "black bars", then there's not a whole lot I can do about it. But I can at least try to tell them why they shouldn't and do my best to discourage the practice. And I certainly will.


I am on your side discouraging is one thing telling someone don't do it in bold capital letters is more like you being their father and telling them not to do something I just don't know how helpful it is with encouraging them to do what you believe is best when you take such a hard line I am right about this stance. Just my two cents I'm done

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

DocOrange88 said:


> Correct, I have a lens setting that adjusts the zoom so I don't cut the top and bottom off. I do lose some screen area obviously on the sides when its 16:9 but I'm not cutting the image off.


You're losing image cropping the sides and whether you realize it or not this is degrading the impact of the film. Especially on scope material. If you want to fill the height of your screen and eliminate letterboxing, then you should seriously consider a scope screen. Otherwise I would strongly suggest living with letterboxing.

The last time I was at a hotel HBO had cropped Harry Potter 5 from scope to 16:9. There were several scenes of dialogue where half the actors face was chopped off. Don't do this. It's ugly. It does not retain the intent of the filmmaker and ultimately degrades the viewing experience.


----------



## DocOrange88

jeahrens said:


> You're losing image cropping the sides and whether you realize it or not this is degrading the impact of the film. Especially on scope material. If you want to fill the height of your screen and eliminate letterboxing, then you should seriously consider a scope screen. Otherwise I would strongly suggest living with letterboxing.
> 
> The last time I was at a hotel HBO had cropped Harry Potter 5 from scope to 16:9. There were several scenes of dialogue where half the actors face was chopped off. Don't do this. It's ugly. It does not retain the intent of the filmmaker and ultimately degrades the viewing experience.



So I don't think you understand that we have lens settings and I switch the zoom and position depending on what I'm watching. So I'll make it simpler.

*Setting 1 is for 2:1 and wider aspect ratios. *

2:1 Aspect ratio fills the full screen

2.4:1 Aspect ratio fills the full width but does not fill the height as result there will be bars above and below the image.

*Setting 2 is for 16:9 and taller aspect ratios.*

16:9 Aspect ratio will fill the full height but there will be bars on the left and right of the screen but very small.

1.33:1 Aspect ratio will fill the full height but the bars will be even bigger on the left and right.


Depending on the aspect ratio of what I'm watching I switch between setting 1 or setting 2. 

At no point is anything being cropped or lost, I'm just changing the size such that it fits the height or the width of what is being projected.

Hopefully this image helps you understand, except my screen is 2:1 not 2.39:1 but everything fits.


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## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am on your side discouraging is one thing telling someone don't do it in bold capital letters is more like you being their father and telling them not to do something I just don't know how helpful it is with encouraging them to do what you believe is best when you take such a hard line I am right about this stance. Just my two cents I'm done
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I respect your opinion. It was hard fight by film enthusiasts and filmmakers to get where we are. And I just don't see it as a grey area. There is a clearly a correct way to watch a film. Yes that one line of the post was firm and I don't feel being firm was unwarranted there. I do understand where you're coming from.


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> I find I can watch all SDR content in ECO. which still makes up 60% of my viewing content. For HDR I use Digital Cinema and High lamp. Which means am using the lamp at an average of Medium lamp. I would go with the slightly higher gain screen and see what lamp settings are best to your eyes once the screen is set up. You got a replacement lamp with the 6050. Replacement lamps are also fairly inexpensive.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


My room is so dark, I use ECO for all my content. I keep the HDR slider at 8, and the picture is PLENTY bright. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## jeahrens

DocOrange88 said:


> So I don't think you understand that we have lens settings and I switch the zoom and position depending on what I'm watching. So I'll make it simpler.
> 
> *Setting 1 is for 2:1 and wider aspect ratios. *
> 
> 2:1 Aspect ratio fills the full screen
> 
> 2.4:1 Aspect ratio fills the full width but does not fill the height as result there will be bars above and below the image.
> 
> *Setting 2 is for 16:9 and taller aspect ratios.*
> 
> 16:9 Aspect ratio will fill the full height but there will be bars on the left and right of the screen but very small.
> 
> 1.33:1 Aspect ratio will fill the full height but the bars will be even bigger on the left and right.
> 
> 
> Depending on the aspect ratio of what I'm watching I switch between setting 1 or setting 2.
> 
> At no point is anything being cropped or lost, I'm just changing the size such that it fits the height or the width of what is being projected.


That sounds like a 2.00:1 screen. You said you have a 16:9 screen above. Do you have a 16:9 screen permanently matted to 2.00:1? Or were you meaning you have a 16:9 screen because that AR fits in 2.00:1?

I mean what you're describing is exactly how a 2.00:1 screen works and I've posted many times I think it's a great compromise. And no using 2.00:1 in the manner you're describing isn't cropping anything. I have sinking feeling this is one of those conversations where everyone's been on the same side, just not articulating things well enough (looks for a facepalm icon).


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> My room is so dark, I use ECO for all my content. I keep the HDR slider at 8, and the picture is PLENTY bright.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I think you have two factors that are very important to mention. Your projector is at basically the minimum throw distance so you are getting more light onto your screen. which is fantastic. Secondly you also have a really great painted screen on your wall which is also helping maximize the light output if I understand Mississippi Man correctly. The evidence is clearly there in the pictures you have taken. I am curious of Mississippi Man has a quoted gain for that screen. I would Hazard a guess it's not a 1.0 gain paint material. Just some things for people to keep in mind throw distance room conditions and screen game all play a significant role and how much brightness do you actually see coming off your screen.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> I respect your opinion. It was hard fight by film enthusiasts and filmmakers to get where we are. And I just don't see it as a grey area. There is a clearly a correct way to watch a film. Yes that one line of the post was firm and I don't feel being firm was unwarranted there. I do understand where you're coming from.


I totally understand why film Enthusiast and filmmakers are so passionate about the film was being seen as they were intended. I do appreciate and admire your passion.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> That sounds like a 2.00:1 screen. You said you have a 16:9 screen above. Do you have a 16:9 screen permanently matted to 2.00:1? Or were you meaning you have a 16:9 screen because that AR fits in 2.00:1?
> 
> 
> 
> I mean what you're describing is exactly how a 2.00:1 screen works and I've posted many times I think it's a great compromise. And no using 2.00:1 in the manner you're describing isn't cropping anything. I have sinking feeling this is one of those conversations where everyone's been on the same side, just not articulating things well enough (looks for a facepalm icon).


Agreed LOL 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DocOrange88

jeahrens said:


> That sounds like a 2.00:1 screen. You said you have a 16:9 screen above. Do you have a 16:9 screen permanently matted to 2.00:1? Or were you meaning you have a 16:9 screen because that AR fits in 2.00:1?
> 
> I mean what you're describing is exactly how a 2.00:1 screen works and I've posted many times I think it's a great compromise. And no using 2.00:1 in the manner you're describing isn't cropping anything. I have sinking feeling this is one of those conversations where everyone's been on the same side, just not articulating things well enough (looks for a facepalm icon).


It is matted to 2:1 due to space. Yea I love the internet but I feel like for anyone else it's now super clear at least lol!


----------



## jeahrens

DocOrange88 said:


> It is matted to 2:1 due to space. Yea I love the internet but I feel like for anyone else it's now super clear at least lol!


Well this is one of those cases where what was written didn't make it through the old lizard brain. 2.00:1 is a great option, you're not cropping anything and I'm sorry for the folks slogging through the noise of people arguing the same point past each other. Thankfully it's not often things get off the rails with everyone arguing water is wet


----------



## flashedvirus0

*Moire*

I am considering a woven ceiling-recessed A/T electric screen where the material cannot be mounted "tilted". So moire effect is a concern. Any of those of you with a woven screen seen issues with this from your 5050UB? Does the fact that it will "pixel-shift" into 4K resolution mitigate this at all?


----------



## HTX^2steve

RaceCarDriver said:


> If you want a Panamorph lens, you need the 6050 as only the 6050 has the Anamorphic Wide and Horizontal squeeze modes.
> 
> The 6050 also includes ISF modes that the 5050 does not have.
> 
> The mounting kit that is included with the 6050 is a $300 option on the 5050. The lamp is $300 from Epson. Back cable cover is typically a $50 accessory. The additional year of warranty is not just 1 year extended, but their premium rapid replacement warranty. It’s usually a $300 give or take warranty.
> 
> You're not paying $1000 for some gimmicks and a black case. For someone who wants Epson’s best HT lamp projector, the 6050 is the one to get. It’s the full boat. Once you add it all up, the price makes sense IMO.




Why aren't all Epson cases black? So tempted just to spray paint the 5050 case black to match what most home theaters are.


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> Why aren't all Epson cases black? So tempted just to spray paint the 5050 case black to match what most home theaters are.


I understand your complaint. I would not make any changes to your 5050. Painting it voids your warranty. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Great news for everyone in the US!!

The Panasonic ub420 is finally available in the states!!!

https://www.techradar.com/reviews/panasonic-dp-ub420

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/panaso...-blu-ray-player-black/6361757.p?skuId=6361757

Just an example I am sure it is available many places. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Blu-Boy in BKK

Regarding 3D and the Epson 9400. I recently watched Ocean Wonderland 3D and I was extremely annoyed by what I saw.
You see I’m a keen Scuba Diver who unfortunately lives near London. So when I saw visually beautiful undersea images and could almost touch the creatures I was watching it just made me homesick and more than a little pissed off TBH.
The 3D was that good. Ever seen a Green Sea Turtle in your living room? I have and it’s awesome.


----------



## HAMMo7

Blu-Boy in BKK said:


> Regarding 3D and the Epson 9400. I recently watched Ocean Wonderland 3D and I was extremely annoyed by what I saw.
> You see I’m a keen Scuba Diver who unfortunately lives near London. So when I saw visually beautiful undersea images and could almost touch the creatures I was watching it just made me homesick and more than a little pissed off TBH.
> The 3D was that good. Ever seen a Green Sea Turtle in your living room? I have and it’s awesome.


What 3D glasses you using?


----------



## SFC

Hi All:


Three quick questions: I have a new 5050UB and want to track total projector usage. I see the "Info" menu entry for lamp hours, but with previous projectors there was also a "Total projector hours" listing, but that may only be available from a service menu.


Thus:


- Does anyone know how to access the 'total projector hours' info for the 5050UB?


- Is a technical service manual available for the 5050UB?


- My projector didn't come with a cover over the rear connector port - is that common?



Thanks!


sfc


----------



## skylarlove1999

SFC said:


> Hi All:
> 
> 
> Three quick questions: I have a new 5050UB and want to track total projector usage. I see the "Info" menu entry for lamp hours, but with previous projectors there was also a "Total projector hours" listing, but that may only be available from a service menu.
> 
> 
> Thus:
> 
> 
> - Does anyone know how to access the 'total projector hours' info for the 5050UB?
> 
> 
> - Is a technical service manual available for the 5050UB?
> 
> 
> - My projector didn't come with a cover over the rear connector port - is that common?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> sfc


Cover is included on 6050 not 5050. Manual can be found online. Do a Google search. Projector hours are under main menu.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SFC

Thanks skylarlove1999! 



Good to know about the cover.


I have the user manual and noted the info on lamp hours, but that value can be reset to "0" using the 'Reset' menu when the lamp is changed.


What I'd like to find is 'projector hours' that sums across all lamps and can't be changed. On my previous projectors, this was accessed through a service menu.


sfc


----------



## skylarlove1999

SFC said:


> Thanks skylarlove1999!
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know about the cover.
> 
> 
> I have the user manual and noted the info on lamp hours, but that value can be reset to "0" using the 'Reset' menu when the lamp is changed.
> 
> 
> What I'd like to find is 'projector hours' that sums across all lamps and can't be changed. On my previous projectors, this was accessed through a service menu.
> 
> 
> sfc


I apologize for misunderstanding I'm not sure if Epson has a feature where you can track projector hours rather than lamp hours

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## anilrao

Blu-Boy in BKK said:


> Regarding 3D and the Epson 9400. I recently watched Ocean Wonderland 3D and I was extremely annoyed by what I saw.
> You see I’m a keen Scuba Diver who unfortunately lives near London. So when I saw visually beautiful undersea images and could almost touch the creatures I was watching it just made me homesick and more than a little pissed off TBH.
> The 3D was that good. Ever seen a Green Sea Turtle in your living room? I have and it’s awesome.


Thank you for the report. One question; did you any ghosting? If so under what conditions?


----------



## Blu-Boy in BKK

HAMMo7 said:


> What 3D glasses you using?


3D3 A1112
I also own a couple of the Samsung cheapies. These are for guests.


----------



## Blu-Boy in BKK

anilrao said:


> Thank you for the report. One question; did you any ghosting? If so under what conditions?


There was ghosting present when the menu screen was up, however there was absolutely zero whilst the feature was playing. Also, the snorkel / bubble sounds coming from all around with pseudo Atmos was unbelievable.


----------



## SFC

*5050UB hours and packaging*



skylarlove1999 said:


> I apologize for misunderstanding I'm not sure if Epson has a feature where you can track projector hours rather than lamp hours
> 
> No problem - thanks for the comments!
> 
> 
> Perhaps someone out there has access to a service manual for the 5050 (or earlier versions, as the software is probably the same)!
> 
> 
> Separately, there were some oddities in how my unit was packaged. For example, my accessories box came all jumbled up, with a piece of bubble-wrap jammed in the bottom and the remote out of it's plastic sleeve. Additionally, there's an arrow on the accessories box for top front, and the same is true for the cardboard wrap around the middle of the projector, but both of these items were upside down (could not see the arrows). Was that true for others (I'm concerned that mine might have been re-packaged)?


----------



## skylarlove1999

SFC said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I apologize for misunderstanding I'm not sure if Epson has a feature where you can track projector hours rather than lamp hours
> 
> No problem - thanks for the comments!
> 
> 
> Perhaps someone out there has access to a service manual for the 5050 (or earlier versions, as the software is probably the same)!
> 
> 
> Separately, there were some oddities in how my unit was packaged. For example, my accessories box came all jumbled up, with a piece of bubble-wrap jammed in the bottom and the remote out of it's plastic sleeve. Additionally, there's an arrow on the accessories box for top front, and the same is true for the cardboard wrap around the middle of the projector, but both of these items were upside down (could not see the arrows). Was that true for others (I'm concerned that mine might have been re-packaged)?
> 
> 
> 
> Now I totally understand why you want to know how many projector hours rather than lamp hours because of the condition in which your projector arrived. I would say that your projector seems like it was repackaged.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## anilrao

Blu-Boy in BKK said:


> There was ghosting present when the menu screen was up, however there was absolutely zero whilst the feature was playing. Also, the snorkel / bubble sounds coming from all around with pseudo Atmos was unbelievable.


Thanks. This info is very useful. I'm close to getting this PJ but have not had a chance to check out the 3D capabilities, so that is the one thing holding me back. I'm used to the excellent 3D of my 7-year-old Sharp xv-z30000 DLP.


----------



## Sergey Feingold

anilrao said:


> Thanks. This info is very useful. I'm close to getting this PJ but have not had a chance to check out the 3D capabilities, so that is the one thing holding me back. I'm used to the excellent 3D of my 7-year-old Sharp xv-z30000 DLP.


FWIW, I've got ghosting with mine. So far I've tried Dredd and Edge of Tomorrow. Some scenes have pronounced ghosting, others have none. I've tried 2 different pairs of glasses (Samsung & another cheapo brand) and there's no difference. Lowering the 3D brightness (which seems to have nearly zero effect on actual brightness) has helped but not solved the issue. Everything I've read indicates that DLP projectors are superior in terms of 3D performance, but YMMV. Judging by the plethora of complaints about this issue with this projector it seems like it's just not a perfect solution.


----------



## Sergey Feingold

Question to folks in this thread:

Is there any delay during which the screen is blank when you switch colorspaces (e.g. SDR->HDR) or framerates? I posted in the Denon AVR thread as I thought this was due to the AVR, but it happens with some sources even when connected directly. I've tried 3 different cables with no difference. It only happens on some sources and I hear a faint click from the Epson when this switching/blanking happens. A few examples:

1) Roku (directly connected) switching from SDR -> HDR: Instant, no dropout/blanking.
2) Roku (connected through AVR) switching from SDR -> HDR: ~5s video dropout.
3) ATV 4K: Blanking occurs when switching colorspace with both direct and AVR connections. 

Is this just an inherent flaw/feature of the unit? For those of you using the Roku/ATV with an AVR who don't have this issue, I'd love some details on your setup to help troubleshoot!

Thanks,


----------



## skylarlove1999

Sergey Feingold said:


> Question to folks in this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any delay during which the screen is blank when you switch colorspaces (e.g. SDR->HDR) or framerates? I posted in the Denon AVR thread as I thought this was due to the AVR, but it happens with some sources even when connected directly. I've tried 3 different cables with no difference. It only happens on some sources and I hear a faint click from the Epson when this switching/blanking happens. A few examples:
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Roku (directly connected) switching from SDR -> HDR: Instant, no dropout/blanking.
> 
> 2) Roku (connected through AVR) switching from SDR -> HDR: ~5s video dropout.
> 
> 3) ATV 4K: Blanking occurs when switching colorspace with both direct and AVR connections.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this just an inherent flaw/feature of the unit? For those of you using the Roku/ATV with an AVR who don't have this issue, I'd love some details on your setup to help troubleshoot!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,


Yes I have a Denon 6500 connect to my Epson 6050 and there is generally a delay when switching sources and when using the Roku player there is a delay when switching from HDR content to SDR content.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

All projectors have a lag when switching from one signal to another... not just between SD / HD / 4K / 4K HDR but also when switching frame rates (4K 24fps to 4K 60fps for example. 

If you want no lag when switching inputs, then set all the sources or the receiver to up-convert all signals to the same resolution and frame rate. However, this is not optimal for all source material, so you have to pick the lesser of two evils...


----------



## anilrao

Sergey Feingold said:


> FWIW, I've got ghosting with mine. So far I've tried Dredd and Edge of Tomorrow. Some scenes have pronounced ghosting, others have none. I've tried 2 different pairs of glasses (Samsung & another cheapo brand) and there's no difference. Lowering the 3D brightness (which seems to have nearly zero effect on actual brightness) has helped but not solved the issue. Everything I've read indicates that DLP projectors are superior in terms of 3D performance, but YMMV. Judging by the plethora of complaints about this issue with this projector it seems like it's just not a perfect solution.


Very helpful. I’ll just have to it myself. Thanks


----------



## gibson61

3d is pretty much dead. And will be gone all the way soon. But the Epson does have good 3d as most reviews claim. I play 3d movie 's for the kids once in a while on my Epson and most love it. But 3d would be the last thing that I would be concern with when buying a new projector.


----------



## anilrao

gibson61 said:


> 3d is pretty much dead. And will be gone all the way soon. But the Epson does have good 3d as most reviews claim. I play 3d movie 's for the kids once in a while on my Epson and most love it. But 3d would be the last thing that I would be concern with when buying a new projector.


Thanks for your input. Yes, I’ll have to consider how important 3D is to me considering the other features of the 6050.


----------



## asolor78

*NFL in Faux 4k hdr thursday nights .. on our faux 4k . *

Digital trends:
"Want to watch Thursday Night NFL football games in 4K? Do you have a subscription to services like Sling TV, PlayStation Vue, Hulu, and AT&T TV NOW? Now through the new Fox Sports app, you can stream the games that air on FOX in 4K.
For some time now fuboTV has offered select Fox events in 4K, but now through the Fox Sports app on Roku and the Apple TV you can watch Thursday Night NFL Football on Fox in 4K. To access these events, use your logins to services like PlayStation Vue, YouTube TV, Hulu, and AT&T TV NOW on the Fox Sports app. (Important: Your local Fox affiliate has to be included in your package.)
Important Note: You need the Fox Sports app, not the Fox Sports Go app. The Fox Sports app streams content from Fox, FS1, BTN, etc. The Fox Sports Go app is the streaming app for Fox Regional Sports Networks that are now owned by Sinclair. Also, remember not all programs and games on FOX stream in 4K.
Currently,4K streaming with the Fox Sports app is only available on 4K Roku Playersor Roku TVs and the Apple TV 4K but Fox reportedly plans to add support for additional devices soon.
The one catch here is these will be upscaled 4K. Currently, Fox is shooting the games in 1080p but upgrading them to 4K for its 4K broadcasts. So 4K purests may not be happy but it will offer a far better picture than traditional HD TV".


----------



## biglen

My movie room is totally dark, so I can run my 5050 on ECO mode for all my content. Am I taking away from any PQ by doing this?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

biglen said:


> My movie room is totally dark, so I can run my 5050 on ECO mode for all my content. Am I taking away from any PQ by doing this?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


no


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> My movie room is totally dark, so I can run my 5050 on ECO mode for all my content. Am I taking away from any PQ by doing this?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Running in ECO mode is not inherently taking away any picture quality. If your HDR performance is outstanding I see no reason to change. I run ECO for all SDR content. I do use Digital Cinema and High lamp mode for HDR content. Obviously throw distance, screen size, screen gain and room conditions all affect the image in your room. My projector is 16ft back from screen, 120 inch 16x9 1.1 gain screen with triple black velvet on side walls and ceiling 12 ft back all the way to main listening position. I am curious if you are using Digital Cinema mode in your setup with that ECO lamp mode. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

asolor78 said:


> Digital trends:
> 
> "Want to watch Thursday Night NFL football games in 4K? Do you have a subscription to services like Sling TV, PlayStation Vue, Hulu, and AT&T TV NOW? Now through the new Fox Sports app, you can stream the games that air on FOX in 4K.
> 
> For some time now fuboTV has offered select Fox events in 4K, but now through the Fox Sports app on Roku and the Apple TV you can watch Thursday Night NFL Football on Fox in 4K. To access these events, use your logins to services like PlayStation Vue, YouTube TV, Hulu, and AT&T TV NOW on the Fox Sports app. (Important: Your local Fox affiliate has to be included in your package.)
> 
> Important Note: You need the Fox Sports app, not the Fox Sports Go app. The Fox Sports app streams content from Fox, FS1, BTN, etc. The Fox Sports Go app is the streaming app for Fox Regional Sports Networks that are now owned by Sinclair. Also, remember not all programs and games on FOX stream in 4K.
> 
> Currently,4K streaming with the Fox Sports app is only available on 4K Roku Playersor Roku TVs and the Apple TV 4K but Fox reportedly plans to add support for additional devices soon.
> 
> The one catch here is these will be upscaled 4K. Currently, Fox is shooting the games in 1080p but upgrading them to 4K for its 4K broadcasts. So 4K purests may not be happy but it will offer a far better picture than traditional HD TV".


Fubotv does have a seven day free trial. Eagles vs Packers will be the first NFL game broadcast in 4K this coming Thursday. Just another option. I have not read anywhere that the Fox Sports App will broadcast in 4K. Seems odd that Amazon could not broadcast in 4k since they offer so much 4K content but the Fox Sports app will be 4K capable.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dimi123

SFC said:


> What I'd like to find is 'projector hours' that sums across all lamps and can't be changed. On my previous projectors, this was accessed through a service menu.





skylarlove1999 said:


> I apologize for misunderstanding I'm not sure if Epson has a feature where you can track projector hours rather than lamp hours


The sequence for the service menu should be the same as on the 5040/6040: press Menu for 8 seconds then Esc twice.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dimi123 said:


> The sequence for the service menu should be the same as on the 5040/6040: press Menu for 8 seconds then Esc twice.


Thank you for having the knowledge willingness to use your time to share. It is greatly appreciated. By accessing the service menu it will not reset any saved custom settings, correct? Always nervous about using any remote buttons to access a somewhat hidden menu. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SFC

*Epson 4010/5040/5050/4050/6050 service manual??*

Hi all:


Does anyone know whether such documents exist and/or where the could be downloaded (I'm guessing they may be quite similar)?


I'd like to know more about my new 5050 


Thanks!


----------



## HTX^2steve

SFC said:


> Hi all:
> 
> 
> Does anyone know whether such documents exist and/or where the could be downloaded (I'm guessing they may be quite similar)?
> 
> 
> I'd like to know more about my new 5050
> 
> 
> Thanks!


How do you like the 5050 so far?


----------



## vidwiz

Well this will probably be an unpopular post but I still want to provide my findings.

It's official. The Benq 5550 beat the Epson 5050 and has earned its place in my theater. I compared both last night side by side split screen with test patterns and the UHD's Bumblebee and Earth One Amazing Day, and here is my simple non instrumented assessment:

Blacks were very close, Epson slightly better. 
When I displayed a white field, the Epson blew the benq out of the water, no comparison in brightness, however,
on regular movie content, amazingly I could not see a difference. Still scratching my head over that one.
The Benq has a noisier picture that mainly comes from the Pixel Enhancer 4k settings. I have dialed mine down to 4 as a compromise.
Dark scenes were a little milkier on the Benq, a result of its inferior contrast.

Longer lag times of the Benq are obvious with this setup but not an issue for me and for some reason I found it easier to nail the lipsync setting in my AVR with the Benq.
I just cant ignore the detail provided by the Benq, scene after scene it is sharper and the Epson looks blurry in comparison.
I could not see the superior motion handling of the Benq sidexside however I did notice it when fullscreen and A/B-ing them.
3d while dim has no crosstalk. Neither projector begins to compare to my OLED tho so not really an issue. 3D would not be nearly dead had the masses seen LG's in action.
I found the Benq a bit quieter. I had both on highest brightness setting and high altitude fan mode.
Benq's colors were more accurate. Something probably attainable with the Epson but nice not to have to mess with it. I had both projectors setup with settings found online that while certainly not optimal, still provided pleasing pictures on both units however things like the sky and trees looked better to me on the Benq.
Benq is currently $300 cheaper.
Motion Enhancer is available in 4k and I find it to work well. 
Benq is smaller, lighter, and black.

So I'm going to live with the Benq's shortcomings for it's stronger overall performance (to my eyes). The Epson is still nice and I will miss the lens controls.


----------



## dimi123

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you for having the knowledge willingness to use your time to share. It is greatly appreciated. By accessing the service menu it will not reset any saved custom settings, correct? Always nervous about using any remote buttons to access a somewhat hidden menu.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


You're most welcome. 
No, you can't mess up. The service menu contains only information about the projector.


----------



## skylarlove1999

vidwiz said:


> Well this will probably be an unpopular post but I still want to provide my findings.
> 
> 
> 
> It's official. The Benq 5550 beat the Epson 5050 and has earned its place in my theater. I compared both last night side by side split screen with test patterns and the UHD's Bumblebee and Earth One Amazing Day, and here is my simple non instrumented assessment:
> 
> 
> 
> Blacks were very close, Epson slightly better.
> 
> When I displayed a white field, the Epson blew the benq out of the water, no comparison in brightness, however,
> 
> on regular movie content, amazingly I could not see a difference. Still scratching my head over that one.
> 
> The Benq has a noisier picture that mainly comes from the Pixel Enhancer 4k settings. I have dialed mine down to 4 as a compromise.
> 
> Dark scenes were a little milkier on the Benq, a result of its inferior contrast.
> 
> 
> 
> Longer lag times of the Benq are obvious with this setup but not an issue for me and for some reason I found it easier to nail the lipsync setting in my AVR with the Benq.
> 
> I just cant ignore the detail provided by the Benq, scene after scene it is sharper and the Epson looks blurry in comparison.
> 
> I could not see the superior motion handling of the Benq sidexside however I did notice it when fullscreen and A/B-ing them.
> 
> 3d while dim has no crosstalk. Neither projector begins to compare to my OLED tho so not really an issue. 3D would not be nearly dead had the masses seen LG's in action.
> 
> I found the Benq a bit quieter. I had both on highest brightness setting and high altitude fan mode.
> 
> Benq's colors were more accurate. Something probably attainable with the Epson but nice not to have to mess with it. I had both projectors setup with settings found online that while certainly not optimal, still provided pleasing pictures on both units however things like the sky and trees looked better to me on the Benq.
> 
> Benq is currently $300 cheaper.
> 
> Motion Enhancer is available in 4k and I find it to work well.
> 
> Benq is smaller, lighter, and black.
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm going to live with the Benq's shortcomings for it's stronger overall performance (to my eyes). The Epson is still nice and I will miss the lens controls.


I am glad you found a projector that you love. That is the ultimate goal. Some people like chocolate and others like vanilla. Both great flavors and each side believes strongly that their flavor is the best. Very glad they still make both flavors along with strawberry. LOL. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

vidwiz said:


> Well this will probably be an unpopular post but I still want to provide my findings.
> 
> It's official. The Benq 5550 beat the Epson 5050 and has earned its place in my theater. I compared both last night side by side split screen with test patterns and the UHD's Bumblebee and Earth One Amazing Day, and here is my simple non instrumented assessment:
> 
> 
> vidwiz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am one of those 5% individuals that see those "rainbow" effects from the color wheels and had no problems with the LCD chips. Now I haven't sat in front of a new recent DLP type in some time but I wonder if I would still be able to detect it.
Click to expand...


----------



## DavidinGA

vidwiz said:


> Well this will probably be an unpopular post but I still want to provide my findings.
> 
> 
> 
> It's official. The Benq 5550 beat the Epson 5050 and has earned its place in my theater. I compared both last night side by side split screen with test patterns and the UHD's Bumblebee and Earth One Amazing Day, and here is my simple non instrumented assessment:
> 
> 
> 
> Blacks were very close, Epson slightly better.
> 
> When I displayed a white field, the Epson blew the benq out of the water, no comparison in brightness, however,
> 
> on regular movie content, amazingly I could not see a difference. Still scratching my head over that one.
> 
> The Benq has a noisier picture that mainly comes from the Pixel Enhancer 4k settings. I have dialed mine down to 4 as a compromise.
> 
> Dark scenes were a little milkier on the Benq, a result of its inferior contrast.
> 
> 
> 
> Longer lag times of the Benq are obvious with this setup but not an issue for me and for some reason I found it easier to nail the lipsync setting in my AVR with the Benq.
> 
> I just cant ignore the detail provided by the Benq, scene after scene it is sharper and the Epson looks blurry in comparison.
> 
> I could not see the superior motion handling of the Benq sidexside however I did notice it when fullscreen and A/B-ing them.
> 
> 3d while dim has no crosstalk. Neither projector begins to compare to my OLED tho so not really an issue. 3D would not be nearly dead had the masses seen LG's in action.
> 
> I found the Benq a bit quieter. I had both on highest brightness setting and high altitude fan mode.
> 
> Benq's colors were more accurate. Something probably attainable with the Epson but nice not to have to mess with it. I had both projectors setup with settings found online that while certainly not optimal, still provided pleasing pictures on both units however things like the sky and trees looked better to me on the Benq.
> 
> Benq is currently $300 cheaper.
> 
> Motion Enhancer is available in 4k and I find it to work well.
> 
> Benq is smaller, lighter, and black.
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm going to live with the Benq's shortcomings for it's stronger overall performance (to my eyes). The Epson is still nice and I will miss the lens controls.


I see rainbows, so it's not even a consideration for me, but what was the screen size/type and viewing distance for your comparison? 

Also, you didn't mention anything about the most important aspect of any projector - contrast. Which one won here? 


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## DocOrange88

DavidinGA said:


> I see rainbows, so it's not even a consideration for me, but what was the screen size/type and viewing distance for your comparison?
> 
> Also, you didn't mention anything about the most important aspect of any projector - contrast. Which one won here?
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I was going to get the 3550 but they could never get it into stock then the 5050 came out and the black levels being so much better and the projector being brighter made it a non issue.


----------



## ShadowBoy

DavidinGA said:


> I see rainbows, so it's not even a consideration for me, but what was the screen size/type and viewing distance for your comparison?
> 
> Also, you didn't mention anything about the most important aspect of any projector - contrast. Which one won here?
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Well, he sorta mentioned it in the first line. "Blacks were very close, Epson slightly better". I also notice rainbows, so haven't really considered DLP's in my projector shopping. Too bad because 3D was one of my main reasons for upgrading and DLP is the king of 3D.


----------



## anilrao

*6050 decision*

Everyone,
Thanks for all the information; it was all very useful in making my decision. 
After taking a look at the projector and considering how it might fit into my situation, I ordered the 6050.
I have a completely light-controlled room, with very dark to black walls and ceiling. Very dark carpet. The screen is 140", 2.35:1, 1.1 gain. My main concern was screen door and judder during panning (or fast motion). As to the former, when we walked into the demo room my heart sank, as I thought I could detect SDE at the nominal seating distance. It wasn't until we went to take a closer look that we realized it was perf screen and what we were seeing were the holes! Even standing two feet away from the screen I could not see any SDE. 
As to judder; my current DLP does a nice job with 1080p but my Sony 4k flat panel did not with 4k. Tried 1080p content (2001) on the 6050 and the judder was pronounced. The 4K 2001 looked much better although there was some (acceptable) judder present. I think that I have to play around with the settings. Aside from that, the image looked great!
It will be delivered to my house by Best Buy in about two weeks. They do have a 30-day eval period so I will be running it through its paces before I permanently mount it. In the meantime, I will be ordering some 3D glasses (any suggestions) to test that out the 3D as I could not so so in the demo.
Anyway, thanks again for all the help. You guys are great!


----------



## vidwiz

HTX^2steve said:


> vidwiz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well this will probably be an unpopular post but I still want to provide my findings.
> 
> It's official. The Benq 5550 beat the Epson 5050 and has earned its place in my theater. I compared both last night side by side split screen with test patterns and the UHD's Bumblebee and Earth One Amazing Day, and here is my simple non instrumented assessment:
> 
> 
> vidwiz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am one of those 5% individuals that see those "rainbow" effects from the color wheels and had no problems with the LCD chips. Now I haven't sat in front of a new recent DLP type in some time but I wonder if I would still be able to detect it.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see how anyone could NOT see rainbows when the Benq test pattern is on, very noticeable when shifting one's eyes. I didn't see any in regular viewing though.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## vidwiz

DavidinGA said:


> I see rainbows, so it's not even a consideration for me, but what was the screen size/type and viewing distance for your comparison?
> 
> Also, you didn't mention anything about the most important aspect of any projector - contrast. Which one won here?
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


144" at 9 feet, hence my desire for sharpness.

I did mention contrast here:

"Dark scenes were a little milkier on the Benq, a result of its inferior contrast."


----------



## Luminated67

vidwiz said:


> 144" at 9 feet, hence my desire for sharpness.
> 
> I did mention contrast here:
> 
> "Dark scenes were a little milkier on the Benq, a result of its inferior contrast."


That size of screen and from this close of distance there really isn’t a comparison, I sit the same distance away from my 100” so it just shows how much closer your are sitting by comparison, with a 100” screen from 9 foot you definitely don’t see the increased resolution. 

Black level is really determined by the room more so than the projector in that the better the native contrast of the projector the greater it’s blacks in the right room, in a bat cave you will see the difference in blacks much more. The whole point is finding the right projector for you, the fact you have found it and saved yourself money in the process is a bonus.


----------



## HTX^2steve

What I don't understand is if the 6050 is Epson's most advanced PJ to date...why the heck is it not 4k native?! Why mess around with upscaling?


----------



## Luminated67

HTX^2steve said:


> What I don't understand is if the 6050 is the most advanced PJ to date...why the heck is it not 4k native?! Why mess around with upscaling?


Good question and to be honest I don't think any of us rightly know why Epson haven't released one yet as I have had it confirmed by a dealer friend that he was shown a fully working prototype 3 years ago.

Some say the pixel grid of LED doesn't really suit Native 4K but this is usually coming from people don't particularly like the technology, if they had a fully working example 3 years ago then clearly the technology can be adapted or Epson have changed the panels to something else.

My gut says that within the next 12-24 months we will see Epson releasing a 4K projector, the real question will be whether it's bulb or laser and a what price point.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Luminated67 said:


> Good question and to be honest I don't think any of us rightly know why Epson haven't released one yet as I have had it confirmed by a dealer friend that he was shown a fully working prototype 3 years ago.
> 
> Some say the pixel grid of LED doesn't really suit Native 4K but this is usually coming from people don't particularly like the technology, if they had a fully working example 3 years ago then clearly the technology can be adapted or Epson have changed the panels to something else.
> 
> My gut says that within the next 12-24 months we will see Epson releasing a 4K projector, the real question will be whether it's bulb or laser and a what price point.


I can't believe that my AE900U from 2006 is still going with just reaching 2000 hours on it. Sure it is 1080i upscaling but I got lucky with that PJ and it has been doing it's thing. So yes I am well aware of SDE and all the artifacts that are associated with LCD chip technology. 10 years later and still waiting for the game changer...and then the curve of the "new" technology to work the bugs out....ugh...it never ends. So I will wait and possibility see if this holiday season takes a bite out of the 5050ub price and then I just might pull the trigger...and you are right...with my luck THEN Epson will release a laser 4k native!


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> What I don't understand is if the 6050 is Epson's most advanced PJ to date...why the heck is it not 4k native?! Why mess around with upscaling?


Well quite frankly Epson believes that the real benefit of 4K is HDR, not the increased detail of more pixels. They believe at at a seating distance of ten feet or greater the perceived increase in detail between true 4k and pixel shifting is negligible. The greater the number of pixels the more dense the image becomes, which makes it very challenging to produce high enough lumens to project enough light to produce amazing HDR.

So either you combat the loss of light due to pixel density by using a laser to provide increased brightness to achieve lumens of 3000 or more like JVC did with their Flagship RS4500 , you go with less pixels for increased brightness like Epson has chosen or you develop some proprietary algorithm for Dynamic Tone Mapping so you achieve satisfactory HDR with less than 2000 lumens with true 4k which JVC is introducing as a firmware update in November for their lamp based true 4k projector lineup.

Obviously Epson had home theater projectors with laser, but not true 4k . They do offer commercial faux 4k laser projectors starting at around $6k which does not include the lens, sold separately starting at around $4K. Those Home theater laser projectors did not sell very well even though they were well reviewed. People just have it stuck in their mind that it is not true 4K. 

So I am sure once Epson can produce a true 4k projector( most likely laser based ) with amazing HDR at a price point they can sell to their target audience we will see one, even if Epson thinks true 4k is not really discernible from faux 4k at the viewing distance with most people watch content on a projector.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

HTX^2steve said:


> What I don't understand is if the 6050 is Epson's most advanced PJ to date...why the heck is it not 4k native?! Why mess around with upscaling?


If you take a step back and consider that Epson owns the largest market share of projector sales in the world. Think about that. They are a for-profit company and they are destroying every other projector producer in the world. With that said, they probably don't really care too much about not having a native 4k home theater projector; especially considering that the ub line still sells like crazy. When sales start to slump then they'll probably be more apt to make a move to native 4k...


----------



## pete ramberg

Spot on assessment. Epson is going for brightness, contrast and the advantages it brings to HDR. Putting 8 million LCD pixels on a chip simply attenuates light passing through it. There has to be a compromise between resolution and brightness. Epson chooses brightness.

I was able to do a side-by-side comparison to the 5050UB and Sony 295ES true 4k at a Magnolia/Best Buy. From normal-to-closer viewing distance, the Epson was frankly no different than the Sony for resolution (source was a true 4k disc of "A beautiful Planet Earth"). in fact, I had to increase the Sony's sharpness control to mimic the Epson.





skylarlove1999 said:


> Well quite frankly Epson believes that the real benefit of 4K is HDR, not the increased detail of more pixels. They believe at at a seating distance of ten feet or greater the perceived increase in detail between true 4k and pixel shifting is negligible. The greater the number of pixels the more dense the image becomes, which makes it very challenging to produce high enough lumens to project enough light to produce amazing HDR.
> 
> So either you combat the loss of light due to pixel density by using a laser to provide increased brightness to achieve lumens of 3000 or more like JVC did with their Flagship RS4500 , you go with less pixels for increased brightness like Epson has chosen or you develop some proprietary algorithm for Dynamic Tone Mapping so you achieve satisfactory HDR with less than 2000 lumens with true 4k which JVC is introducing as a firmware update in November for their lamp based true 4k projector lineup.
> 
> Obviously Epson had home theater projectors with laser, but not true 4k . They do offer commercial faux 4k laser projectors starting at around $6k which does not include the lens, sold separately starting at around $4K. Those Home theater laser projectors did not sell very well even though they were well reviewed. People just have it stuck in their mind that it is not true 4K.
> 
> So I am sure once Epson can produce a true 4k projector( most likely laser based ) with amazing HDR at a price point they can sell to their target audience we will see one, even if Epson thinks true 4k is not really discernible from faux 4k at the viewing distance with most people watch content on a projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

I'm seeing from some posts the HDR upgrade is worth it to move from 5040. I have the 5040UBe currently and would really like the HDR to look brighter on movies...even at night with no lights it's pretty dark. Would this be a good upgrade? Also, can anyone confirm that it works with the DirecTV HDR signal?


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm seeing from some posts the HDR upgrade is worth it to move from 5040. I have the 5040UBe currently and would really like the HDR to look brighter on movies...even at night with no lights it's pretty dark. Would this be a good upgrade? Also, can anyone confirm that it works with the DirecTV HDR signal?


You will love HDR on the 5050. The HDR slider makes it easy to adjust content on the fly. I can tell you HDR works with NETFLIX, VUDU, Amazon Prime, Fandango Now, and Hulu. I cut the cord so I don't have Direct TV anymore.

Keep in mind some streaming providers require 4K/60FPS to output HDR content to your display which the 5050 is capable of as long as you are using the HDMI inputs on the projector. If you go with the 5050UBe and choose to use the wireless connection you only can receive an input signal up to 4K/30FPS. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> You will love HDR on the 5050. The HDR slider makes it easy to adjust content on the fly. I can tell you HDR works with NETFLIX, VUDU, Amazon Prime, Fandango Now, and Hulu. I cut the cord so I don't have Direct TV anymore.
> 
> Keep in mind some streaming providers require 4K/60FPS to output HDR content to your display which the 5050 is capable of as long as you are using the HDMI inputs on the projector. If you go with the 5050UBe and choose to use the wireless connection you only can receive an input signal up to 4K/30FPS.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you for the detailed quick reply. I have the Ube but I use an hdmi for that reason. I really wanted to be able to do HDR on the Xbox and Netflix and not lose 60fps at 4K. Sounds like the 5050 is a way to go. The slider is on the remote and adjusts the brightness of the HDR?


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> Thank you for the detailed quick reply. I have the Ube but I use an hdmi for that reason. I really wanted to be able to do HDR on the Xbox and Netflix and not lose 60fps at 4K. Sounds like the 5050 is a way to go. The slider is on the remote and adjusts the brightness of the HDR?


Yes one is the brightest and 16 is the darkest. I run mine in eco for SDR and high lamp mode with digital cinema filter in place for HDR content. The slider comes in handy because HDR content in terms of the nits it was mastered is still all over the place. But it is significantly improved over the 5040 which I owned and had professionally calibrated by Jeff Meier of a Accu Cal. He did a fantastic job but I still felt that HDR was lacking I really don't think that's true anymore with the 5050 if you want a great HDR disc to check it out on that has great Dolby Atmos I suggest buying the digital or hard disk version of Spider-Man far from home. I bought it through Vudu and I'm waiting my 4K disc to arrive but even the digital copy is amazing in 4k HDR.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

pete ramberg said:


> Spot on assessment. Epson is going for brightness, contrast and the advantages it brings to HDR. Putting 8 million LCD pixels on a chip simply attenuates light passing through it. There has to be a compromise between resolution and brightness. Epson chooses brightness.
> 
> I was able to do a side-by-side comparison to the 5050UB and Sony 295ES true 4k at a Magnolia/Best Buy. From normal-to-closer viewing distance, the Epson was frankly no different than the Sony for resolution (source was a true 4k disc of "A beautiful Planet Earth"). in fact, I had to increase the Sony's sharpness control to mimic the Epson.


I did a direct side by side comparison against a 360es and from 9-9.5ft from my 100” screen you couldn’t tell which was sharper, you really need to move close before the benefits of proper 4K becomes apparent. 

Now if I had a 144” screen like what @vidwiz has and sitting 9 foot away then without a doubt 4K is needed.


----------



## DavidinGA

vidwiz said:


> 144" at 9 feet, hence my desire for sharpness.
> 
> I did mention contrast here:
> 
> "Dark scenes were a little milkier on the Benq, a result of its inferior contrast."


That's some solid immersion there! I think my eyes would get tired trying to take it all in at that distance! If I were at that distance I might choose detail/sharpness too.

I have a 150" and I'm at about 15ft back which feels about right to me.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidinGA said:


> That's some solid immersion there! I think my eyes would get tired trying to take it all in at that distance! If I were at that distance I might choose detail/sharpness too.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 150" and I'm at about 15ft back which feels about right to me.


I am 120 at 12 ft. So 150 at 15 ft sounds about right to me as well. My next screen will be 150 AT screen...5 years from now when we get a true 4K laser projector under $10K with 3000+ lumens.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am 120 at 12 ft. So 150 at 15 ft sounds about right to me as well. My next screen will be 150 AT screen...5 years from now when we get a true 4K laser projector under $10K with 3000+ lumens.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I think we all feel the same way, 1 foot for everything 10” diagonal of screen is perfectly viewing distance.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I think we all feel the same way, 1 foot for everything 10” diagonal of screen is perfectly viewing distance.


Agreed

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gibson61

HTX^2steve said:


> I can't believe that my AE900U from 2006 is still going with just reaching 2000 hours on it. Sure it is 1080i upscaling but I got lucky with that PJ and it has been doing it's thing. So yes I am well aware of SDE and all the artifacts that are associated with LCD chip technology. 10 years later and still waiting for the game changer...and then the curve of the "new" technology to work the bugs out....ugh...it never ends. So I will wait and possibility see if this holiday season takes a bite out of the 5050ub price and then I just might pull the trigger...and you are right...with my luck THEN Epson will release a laser 4k native!



O my you still have a AE900u' You might wan to contact the Smithsonian to donate it for their collection. I started out with the ae900' it was a nice FP back then. Then I upgraded about every 2 years and sold the old one's here. You will blow your mind with the newer Epson or Sony ect. The contrast and color is so above your ae900 now . Also Epson 4k pixel shifting is so good that I do not worry about it being native 4k. Every review says the same. The real reason to upgrade is Contrast and color for me. I still use a Epson 5300ub and love it' I only have 300 hours on it and will keep it for another year. Then see when the price of the 5050 drops. I know my signature says I am new but I been a member since 2005 due to lost pass words and new computer. And I would not worry about it being Native 4k or pixel shifting.


----------



## HTX^2steve

gibson61 said:


> O my you still have a AE900u' You might wan to contact the Smithsonian to donate it for their collection. I started out with the ae900' it was a nice FP back then. Then I upgraded about every 2 years and sold the old one's here. You will blow your mind with the newer Epson or Sony ect. The contrast and color is so above your ae900 now . Also Epson 4k pixel shifting is so good that I do not worry about it being native 4k. Every review says the same. The real reason to upgrade is Contrast and color for me. I still use a Epson 5300ub and love it' I only have 300 hours on it and will keep it for another year. Then see when the price of the 5050 drops. I know my signature says I am new but I been a member since 2005 due to lost pass words and new computer. And I would not worry about it being Native 4k or pixel shifting.


hahahaha nice to have met another who started with a PJ at the grass roots level. Cool you have me hyped for the 5050! Thanks!


----------



## DavidinGA

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am 120 at 12 ft. So 150 at 15 ft sounds about right to me as well. My next screen will be 150 AT screen...5 years from now when we get a true 4K laser projector under $10K with 3000+ lumens.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I went back and measured and I'm actually at a little less than 14ft eye to screen on my 150" screen

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

Is this a dead 6050 pixel? Thanks.


----------



## HTX^2steve

BIC2 said:


> Is this a dead 6050 pixel? Thanks.


That doesn't look good...does it move around with the image?


----------



## mon2479

When I get mine, I was thinking of taking a black sharpie and coloring it black. Would that void warranty?


----------



## Keith AP

BIC2 said:


> Is this a dead 6050 pixel? Thanks.





HTX^2steve said:


> That doesn't look good...does it move around with the image?


Can you focus the lens so that the object is sharp and defined?


----------



## BIC2

BIC2 said:


> Is this a dead 6050 pixel? Thanks.





HTX^2steve said:


> That doesn't look good...does it move around with the image?


It's fixed in one spot. If I shift image up/down, it stays in same relative spot, which is almost the exact middle of image. My 6050 was delivered August 21. I just noticed this a few days ago. 40 hours on unit. Is it a dead pixel or dust or ?


----------



## HTX^2steve

BIC2 said:


> It's fixed in one spot. If I shift image up/down, it stays in same relative spot, which is almost the exact middle of image. My 6050 was delivered August 21. I just noticed this a few days ago. 40 hours on unit. Is it a dead pixel or dust or ?


I could have read somewhere that someone had that same issue with their PJ...but I can recall that it had to do with the blue light being misaligned requiring warranty.


----------



## Keith AP

BIC2 said:


> It's fixed in one spot. If I shift image up/down, it stays in same relative spot, which is almost the exact middle of image. My 6050 was delivered August 21. I just noticed this a few days ago. 40 hours on unit. Is it a dead pixel or dust or ?


If it doesn't follow the image, it's not a pixel issue. Having recently occurred, it's likely dust or debris finding it's way onto the lens surface or in the light path.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Keith AP said:


> If it doesn't follow the image, it's not a pixel issue. Having recently occurred, it's likely dust or debris finding it's way onto the lens surface or in the light path.


Seems like a dust blob Google dust blobs and you'll see plenty of pictures. So sorry to hear of your troubles. Make sure you have Epson send you a brand new one I would tell them they should take it out of the box for you and check it if you want to they did that with mine. You shouldn't have much trouble once you send them a picture.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> Seems like a dust blob Google dust blobs and you'll see plenty of pictures. So sorry to hear of your troubles. Make sure you have Epson send you a brand new one I would tell them they should take it out of the box for you and check it if you want to they did that with mine. You shouldn't have much trouble once you send them a picture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


So if it is a dust blob...is that something you can air can out? Doesn't that projector have a hepa type dust filter for that reason? Or does dust blobs require service?


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> So if it is a dust blob...is that something you can air can out? Doesn't that projector have a hepa type dust filter for that reason? Or does dust blobs require service?


Dust blobs require service I would not try shooting any type of pressurized air inside of it it probably wouldn't fix the problem and it would certainly make some other things worse they do not have any type of HEPA filter in the projector because it needs to get air through to the LCD panels in order to cool them off. Just has a regular filter in it

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> So if it is a dust blob...is that something you can air can out? Doesn't that projector have a hepa type dust filter for that reason? Or does dust blobs require service?


EPSON should just provide a new projector or just return to the store for a new projector. Dust blobs happen infrequently but they can happen during the manufacturing process. No facility is dust free. Just bad luck.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SFC

*Thanks dimi123 and skylarlove1999!*

Quote:
Originally Posted by *dimi123*  
_The sequence for the service menu should be the same as on the 5040/6040: press Menu for 8 seconds then Esc twice._






skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you for having the knowledge willingness to use your time to share. It is greatly appreciated. By accessing the service menu it will not reset any saved custom settings, correct? Always nervous about using any remote buttons to access a somewhat hidden menu.



Thanks dimi123 - the sequence works like a charm on the 5050 and, as you indicated, nothing gets changed.


And thanks skylarlove1999 for your input as well!


All very helpful


----------



## BIC2

Keith AP said:


> If it doesn't follow the image, it's not a pixel issue. Having recently occurred, it's likely dust or debris finding it's way onto the lens surface or in the light path.


Sorry, by fixed, I meant fixed on the image, not the screen. Probably there from the beginning but only noticed it after 30+ hours. Did some troubleshooting by phone with Epson yesterday and FedEx had a new projector in my hands in about 20 hours. Awesome customer service.


----------



## mcmountainman

gibson61 said:


> 3d is pretty much dead. And will be gone all the way soon. But the Epson does have good 3d as most reviews claim. I play 3d movie 's for the kids once in a while on my Epson and most love it. But 3d would be the last thing that I would be concern with when buying a new projector.


Not really all major films are still released in 3D and are available on Blu Ray on Zavi etc... Some movies are even rated higher in 3D than the 4K version , watch Spare Change reviews on you tube for example .


----------



## HTX^2steve

mon2479 said:


> When I get mine, I was thinking of taking a black sharpie and coloring it black. Would that void warranty?


Right?! I was saying the same thing...My theater is all black and this PJ the size of a small fridge is bright white...unacceptable!

I was even thinking of applying some black sticker type vinyl removable something just to cut down it being an eyesore to the main top and sides when hung from the ceiling.


----------



## DaveyMac

Apple 4K TV No Signal???

I am completely baffled. I was dicking around with A4KTV video settings last night. I tried to set it to 4K HDR and it didn’t work, screen went Black. It’s supposed to revert to previous video setting if no picture, but it didn’t.

I finally took the 4ktv unit to diff room and hooked it up to a oled tv. Instantly I see picture. I reduced video setting. Hooked it back up to 5050ub via NAD 758 AVR.... and still no picture.

I’ve tried hooking it to alternate hdmi ports that I know are working and still nothing. 

It’s insane I don’t know what to do.

Can anyone think of any reason this could be happening??


----------



## Kelvin1000

It’s probably your HDMI cable that is not up to the task. If not, it could some setting on your receiver?

Try to connect the Apple TV directly to the projector with a short quality cable and go from there.

Hope this helps!


----------



## DaveyMac

Kelvin1000 said:


> Itâ€™️s probably your HDMI cable that is not up to the task. If not, it could some setting on your receiver?
> 
> Try to connect the Apple TV directly to the projector with a short quality cable and go from there.
> 
> Hope this helps!


It’s not the HDMI cord. I’ve switched it with another I tested to be working.

Now I took additional steps of resetting the entire thing. Still doesn’t work. But my oled is 4K HDR and I feel like somehow that’s the problem. That for god knows what reason the projector is is giving it the wrong info... and the A4KTV is selecting a video format not compatible with Epson. 

My Apple Music is playing fine with the unit. So audio is passing but no picture.


----------



## DaveyMac

Disregard my previous posts. I hooked A4TV to receiver input and it shows up. 

Somehow it isn’t producing signal when passing through NAD AVR. I’ll go to that thread.


----------



## Kelvin1000

Plug in the Apple TV to a TV where you can see the video.

Then go to settings —> video and audio —> reset video settings.

Then plug the Apple TV back to the Epson with a good HDMI cable and you should get video again.


----------



## Luminated67

DaveyMac said:


> Apple 4K TV No Signal???
> 
> I am completely baffled. I was dicking around with A4KTV video settings last night. I tried to set it to 4K HDR and it didn’t work, screen went Black. It’s supposed to revert to previous video setting if no picture, but it didn’t.
> 
> I finally took the 4ktv unit to diff room and hooked it up to a oled tv. Instantly I see picture. I reduced video setting. Hooked it back up to 5050ub via NAD 758 AVR.... and still no picture.
> 
> I’ve tried hooking it to alternate hdmi ports that I know are working and still nothing.
> 
> It’s insane I don’t know what to do.
> 
> Can anyone think of any reason this could be happening??


Almost certain it's your HDMI cable, if you aren't using an Optical HDMI lead then look on Amazon as they aren't as dear as you think but will sort your issue right away.


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*

I had the same issue with my Apple TV (among others) and upgrading my HDMI cable fixed all the issues for me.

From one of previous post:

I had some random handshake issues with various sources when I was using a fiber optic cables which went away completely when I switched to this Blue Jeans Series-3A Active HDMI Cable:

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/series3a.htm

This “active” cable has been absolutely flawless at 40 feet with 4K HDR 60FPS 4:4:4 and every other resolution I have thrown at it.

Definitely worth the purchase!


----------



## DarrinH

Can someone please post a photo of the bottom of the projector with the dimensions between the mounting holes? I am trying to figure out if the mount I bought will work with the 5050UB.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> Can someone please post a photo of the bottom of the projector with the dimensions between the mounting holes? I am trying to figure out if the mount I bought will work with the 5050UB.


The mounting holes are equally spread out between 9 and 5/8 inches and then the other four mounting holes are set at a distance of 11 3/4 inches with same distance between the holes. There is another mounting hole set dead center between the eight holes at the front of the projector about 2 1/4 inches in front of the last pair of holes









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## flashedvirus0

flashedvirus0 said:


> I am considering a woven ceiling-recessed A/T electric screen where the material cannot be mounted "tilted". So moire effect is a concern. Any of those of you with a woven screen seen issues with this from your 5050UB? Does the fact that it will "pixel-shift" into 4K resolution mitigate this at all?


Well I already ordered it so if you're all thinking of weighing in, you can step out of the line of people that were waiting to respond.


----------



## Viche

SFC said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *dimi123*
> _The sequence for the service menu should be the same as on the 5040/6040: press Menu for 8 seconds then Esc twice._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks dimi123 - the sequence works like a charm on the 5050 and, as you indicated, nothing gets changed.
> 
> 
> And thanks skylarlove1999 for your input as well!
> 
> 
> All very helpful


So how many hours were on it? Was it a repacked projector?


----------



## niemion

*Optimal 50500UB screen size*

Could anyone help me find the right screen size for the Epson EH-TW9400 / 50500UB 

If my room is 382 cm deep, the EH-TW9400 / 50500UB itself is 45 cm deep and needs at least 3 cm (guestimate) clearance to the wall and also considering that the motorized screen will be 3 cm (guestimate) from the wall, would I be correct in that the throw distance is 331 cm? Are my guestimates also realistic?

Then have I also used the calculator correctly if my absolute maximum screen size for this room comes up at 111"? See attachment.


----------



## Ladeback

niemion said:


> Could anyone help me find the right screen size for the Epson EH-TW9400 / 50500UB
> 
> If my room is 382 cm deep, the EH-TW9400 / 50500UB itself is 45 cm deep and needs at least 3 cm (guestimate) clearance to the wall and also considering that the motorized screen will be 3 cm (guestimate) from the wall, would I be correct in that the throw distance is 331 cm? Are my guestimates also realistic?
> 
> Then have I also used the calculator correctly if my absolute maximum screen size for this room comes up at 111"? See attachment.


You used meters in the calculator instead of centimeters. I believe your screen diagonal would be 82" or 208 cm at that through distance. If you are going with a 16:9 screen, there are other short throw projectors that are 4K like the BenQ HT3550 that could give you a 117" diagonal or 297 cm.


----------



## niemion

Ladeback said:


> You used meters in the calculator instead of centimeters. I believe your screen diagonal would be 82" or 208 cm at that through distance. If you are going with a 16:9 screen, there are other short throw projectors that are 4K like the BenQ HT3550 that could give you a 117" diagonal or 297 cm.


Thanks Ladeback, 331 cm is equal to 3.31 m, so the numbers should add up.

How to you arrive at 82"?

Here it is attached in cm with the same result.


----------



## fredworld

niemion said:


> Thanks Ladeback, 331 cm is equal to 3.31 m, so the numbers should add up.
> 
> How to you arrive at 82"?
> 
> Here it is attached in cm with the same result.



Using the calculator on the Epson website your screen range diagonal is 53" to 110" at a throw distance of 10'10" (approx 331cm). I don't see where you provided information on whether it's a ceiling mount or not but the Epson calculator can take that into consideration.


----------



## Luminated67

niemion said:


> Thanks Ladeback, 331 cm is equal to 3.31 m, so the numbers should add up.
> 
> How to you arrive at 82"?
> 
> Here it is attached in cm with the same result.


Your calculation are correct, you can fit a 110” 16:9 screen. The only slight negative is that you are at maximum zoom which whilst great for HDR will not be quite as good for black levels. My suggestion would be to compromise on size slightly and gain a bit of better black/contrast whilst maintaining good HDR.

My suggestion would be a 100” screen.


----------



## BIC2

No screen yet. Is this view sufficient to check for dead pixels or should it also be done on a white background? If so, how do I project a plain white image besides off a USB photo? Anything else to test for on a new 6050? Thanks.


----------



## DarrinH

*Mount Location Layout*

Thanks for the photos skylarlove1999.
Here is what I have so far from the photos for the layout of the mounting locations. I don't think they are correct. Can someone else chime in?


----------



## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> Thanks for the photos skylarlove1999.
> Here is what I have so far from the photos for the layout of the mounting locations. I don't think they are correct. Can someone else chime in?


One photo was side view of my 6050 and the other was back view with the rear panel cover that comes with the 6050. I put the tape measure in so you could see for yourself the distances between the threaded mounting holes. 4 holes down each side and one more mounting hole dead center between those four sets of holes. What do you feel is incorrect?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> No screen yet. Is this view sufficient to check for dead pixels or should it also be done on a white background? If so, how do I project a plain white image besides off a USB photo? Anything else to test for on a new 6050? Thanks.


Dead pixels should be apparent no matter what you are projecting onto.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaveyMac

Kelvin1000 said:


> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/series3a.htm
> 
> This “active” cable has been absolutely flawless at 40 feet with 4K HDR 60FPS 4:4:4 and every other resolution I have thrown at it.
> 
> Definitely worth the purchase!


Thanks for this link. I have since discovered that a lot of my challenges I am getting with Apple 4K TV is because the installers decided to use an existing ETHERNET type cord for my picture. Not a HDMI cord. They have some weird switcher up by Epson and by the AVR that the Ethernet cord goes into one side... and a foot of hdmi into device (AVR and Epson)


Apparently it's going to be tough to run any new cables. But maybe if I find a skinnier type cord like the ethernet type... I can manage to get one to pull through. Is this Blue Jeans cable a HDMI cord or an Ethernet type cord?


----------



## DaveyMac

Sorry for a couple questions that I'm sure have been asked ad nauseum:


I'm very novice with projectors. I certainly have no idea how to calibrate one. I had this Epson 5050UB installed and am already super pleased with the picture. A big upgrade over my old projector. 


Are there any settings I would most likely want to change from their defaults?


As example, I have no idea what BT.2020 is (I know I could google it) but I know that if I click that box.... it seems to make the skin tones and colors better. Do most people just keep BT2020 on?? The auto setting never seems to be putting it on.


Also the HDR10 setting vs Auto? What do most people do with that? Picture seems to look better what that often. Although when used with BT.2020 it is dark if I don't change the number to 2 or 3..


The content we watch is primarily Netflix, Hulu or Vudu via Apple 4K TV. And some 4K or 1080 Blueray discs on occasions.


----------



## Kelvin1000

DaveyMac said:


> Thanks for this link. I have since discovered that a lot of my challenges I am getting with Apple 4K TV is because the installers decided to use an existing ETHERNET type cord for my picture. Not a HDMI cord. They have some weird switcher up by Epson and by the AVR that the Ethernet cord goes into one side... and a foot of hdmi into device (AVR and Epson)
> 
> 
> Apparently it's going to be tough to run any new cables. But maybe if I find a skinnier type cord like the ethernet type... I can manage to get one to pull through. Is this Blue Jeans cable a HDMI cord or an Ethernet type cord?



It’s an HDMI cord and a pretty thick one as well.


----------



## Bigfire

Hi, just upgraded from the 5040 to the 5050, and I was wondering if there was anything special that needed to be done to enable HDR on the Xbox One X? I can get 4K, but I can't get HDR enabled to save my life. I've got replacement HDMI cables on the way, in case that's the issue, but if there's some special setting I need to make on the projector I'd love to hear about it.


----------



## Bigfire

Also, as a new owner, does anybody have any recommendations for calibrators in the Seattle area? I've emailed a few people/companies I've found, but I've never heard back from any of them.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Bigfire said:


> Also, as a new owner, does anybody have any recommendations for calibrators in the Seattle area? I've emailed a few people/companies I've found, but I've never heard back from any of them.


You are so fortunate to live in Seattle you actually have Kris Deering able to calibrate in your area. I'm really jealous.

https://www.deepdiveav.com/

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Macondawg

5050 vs. 6050?

About to buy my first projector and have decided to choose between these two. Why the price difference? I understand its the same projector in different colors and the 6050 has a longer warranty, mount and extra bulb.

Why should I choose one over the other?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Macondawg said:


> 5050 vs. 6050?
> 
> 
> 
> About to buy my first projector and have decided to choose between these two. Why the price difference? I understand its the same projector in different colors and the 6050 has a longer warranty, mount and extra bulb.
> 
> 
> 
> Why should I choose one over the other?


6050 gets the better pick of lens . I attended the unveiling for the 6050 in NYC hosted by Rodrigo Catalan North American Product Manager for Epson along with Mark Henninger of AVS Forum. Rodrigo told us this directly. 6050 has a 20% higher spec for contrast ratio. Epson had some power supply issues with the 5040. Don't discount that extra year of warranty. Replacement lamp about $150. The Chief mount is their top mount, $300. It is black and comes with a cover plate for the cables in the back. The 5050 does not come in black and has no cable cover. The 5050 is a great projector for the money. Very close to same performance as the 6050. Some people would argue you would not be able to tell the difference. The question becomes how valuable the extras are to you. Keep in mind the 6050 can be found for less than MSRP if you go through a dealer. I would at least reach out to Dream Media in Texas for a quote. Tell them Tristan Jones sent you. That is me. 

https://dreamediaav.com/?s=Epson+6050


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

Bigfire said:


> Hi, just upgraded from the 5040 to the 5050, and I was wondering if there was anything special that needed to be done to enable HDR on the Xbox One X? I can get 4K, but I can't get HDR enabled to save my life. I've got replacement HDMI cables on the way, in case that's the issue, but if there's some special setting I need to make on the projector I'd love to hear about it.


I'm thinking of doing the same upgrade and use Xbox One X for alot of gaming and streaming as well. I would be curious about this too. How is the HDR on 4k movies so far if you've tested this?


----------



## HTX^2steve

Bigfire said:


> Also, as a new owner, does anybody have any recommendations for calibrators in the Seattle area? I've emailed a few people/companies I've found, but I've never heard back from any of them.


Buy the Spears & Munsil disc and enter the DIY world. Not sure though which one you would need (Blu-ray or UHD) with this projector being it is native 1080p but I would say the UHD one? Anyone else comment?


----------



## fredworld

HTX^2steve said:


> Buy the Spears & Munsil disc and enter the DIY world. Not sure though which one you would need (Blu-ray or UHD) with this projector being it is native 1080p but I would say the UHD one? Anyone else comment?



The Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc can be used to calibrate for both 1080P and UHD on the Epson 5050. If you do 3D, then you'll need the HD Benchmark 2nd Edition for 3D calibrating, also.


----------



## DarrinH

I don't think the distances that I have between the rows from front to back are correct.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> I don't think the distances that I have between the rows from front to back is correct.


If you are looking at the projector with the lens at the front there are four holes down the left side and four holes down the right. All holes are parallel to each other. The left and right set of holes are set apart 11 and 3/4 inches. At the front between the left and right set of holes is the ninth mounting hole. Maybe take a look at the pictures I sent you. The generic picture of the 5050 projector taken from above should show the mounting holes. 4 of the 8 holes are covered by a spider mount. Not all holes need to be used depending on the mount. My mount came with a customized mounting plate which align perfectly with all nine holes. Maybe that is what is confusing you?









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## sirius_basterd

*blu ray player*

What 4K blu ray players are people using with their Epson 5050/6050? I was looking at the Panasonic DP-UB820 which can do tone mapping to match the type of TV you have, but does this work for a projector? Does it matter?


----------



## Bigfire

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm thinking of doing the same upgrade and use Xbox One X for alot of gaming and streaming as well. I would be curious about this too. How is the HDR on 4k movies so far if you've tested this?


So far, it's a very noticeable difference, though I haven't run the projectors side by side. The HDR seems to pop much more dramatically, whereas it was pretty muted with the 5040.


----------



## Bigfire

Macondawg said:


> 5050 vs. 6050?
> 
> About to buy my first projector and have decided to choose between these two. Why the price difference? I understand its the same projector in different colors and the 6050 has a longer warranty, mount and extra bulb.
> 
> Why should I choose one over the other?


I struggled with this as well, and then realized it's a no brainer for the 5050 (if you already have a mount that you're happy with). It can't be that many years before Epson goes to a native 4K display, at which point you'll want to upgrade again. If the 5050/6050 were native 4K displays, I think I would have gone with the 6050 as I'd be planning to keep it much longer.


----------



## Bigfire

HTX^2steve said:


> Buy the Spears & Munsil disc and enter the DIY world. Not sure though which one you would need (Blu-ray or UHD) with this projector being it is native 1080p but I would say the UHD one? Anyone else comment?


I have purchased it. I think I'm going to calibrate it myself, and then have professional calibration done to see how much it improves by.


----------



## skylarlove1999

sirius_basterd said:


> What 4K blu ray players are people using with their Epson 5050/6050? I was looking at the Panasonic DP-UB820 which can do tone mapping to match the type of TV you have, but does this work for a projector? Does it matter?


Yes it works fantastic although since the Epson projectors don't support Dolby vision I would actually get the Panasonic ub420 at this time it's about half the price and has everything basically except for the Dolby Vision support and it's available in the United States for the first time in the last couple weeks

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## sirius_basterd

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes it works fantastic although since the Epson projectors don't support Dolby vision I would actually get the Panasonic ub420 at this time it's about half the price and has everything basically except for the Dolby Vision support and it's available in the United States for the first time in the last couple weeks
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Will these projectors ever support Dolby Vision or HDR10+, like via a firmware update? I'm hoping this will be the last blu-ray player I buy, at least for the next 10 years


----------



## skylarlove1999

sirius_basterd said:


> Will these projectors ever support Dolby Vision or HDR10+, like via a firmware update? I'm hoping this will be the last blu-ray player I buy, at least for the next 10 years


Realistically with the standards that Dolby vision is set for brightness meaning nits I don't see any projector ever having Dolby Vision not that it won't be a great viewing experience but I just don't see it ever supporting Dolby vision

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

I was told by a Sony engineer, during an unveiling of their new Master Series sets, that projectors will never meet Dolby Vision requirements due to the nits limitations. When I mentioned this in a different thread, I was chastised by a couple of people stating that Christie and other high end projectors will be able to meet the spec.


----------



## skylarlove1999

plain fan said:


> I was told by a Sony engineer, during an unveiling of their new Master Series sets, that projectors will never meet Dolby Vision requirements due to the nits limitations. When I mentioned this in a different thread, I was chastised by a couple of people stating that Christie and other high end projectors will be able to meet the spec.


Sorry you got chastised. The minimum nits for Dolby Vision mastering is 1000 nits with peaks of 4000 nits. This is for mastering purposes. Even projectors costing hundreds of thousands of dollars cannot produce 4000 nits. A licensing fee is also required for Dolby Vision. HDR10 is free. Dolby Vision's advantage is the frame by frame metadata that Dolby Vision contains, that tells the display how bright each frame should be, providing exceptional specular highlights and increased shadow detail, virtually eliminating black crush. Many televisions don't have the proper nits to display Dolby Vision accurately let alone projectors which typically have less than 300 nits, in many cases significantly less. Not holding my breath for Dolby Vision in projectors.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

Yeah, it wasn't that big of a deal. I was just passing on what a product engineer was telling me and the explanation for it. Most of the reviews I've read comparing HDR10 and DV really don't see a difference between the two, but that could be because people haven't really figured out how to best produce for each.

Either way, HDR is a great addition to our display devices and I'm looking forward to what JVC has done with their DTM firmware update and maybe we'll see that accelerate in quality to where we can enjoy "plug and play" convenience again without jumping through hoops to get the quality.


----------



## DavidK442

plain fan said:


> I was told by a Sony engineer, during an unveiling of their new Master Series sets, that projectors will never meet Dolby Vision requirements due to the nits limitations. When I mentioned this in a different thread, I was chastised by a couple of people stating that Christie and other high end projectors will be able to meet the spec.


I was following along in that thread.










Generally friendlier over here with us commoners.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidK442 said:


> I was following along in that thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Generally friendlier over here with us commoners.


LOL. For real


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DarrinH

My doubts are that the dimensions between the 4 rows (from front to back) are not correct. I do not believe Epson would space these rows dissimilar distances apart. I cannot read an exact measurement from the given photos and I believe the most accurate way to determine them would be from a photo from above the holes where one could read the measuring tape more clearly. If these distances are accurate then I can draw the diagonal measurements between all the holes and check my mount against them. Clear enough?


----------



## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> My doubts are that the dimensions between the 4 rows (from front to back) are not correct. I do not believe Epson would space these rows dissimilar distances apart. I cannot read an exact measurement from the given photos and I believe the most accurate way to determine them would be from a photo from above the holes where one could read the measuring tape more clearly. If these distances are accurate then I can draw the diagonal measurements between all the holes and check my mount against them. Clear enough?



Sorry if i am wrong but you seem to be getting a bit snarky. The threaded mounting holes aligned down the left and right of the projector are equal distances apart. They are aligned directly across from each other. I am not going to unmount my projector . Many people have been able to figure this out on their own, myself included. You are asking an awful lot of fellow enthusiasts to remove their projector from the mount to do your work for you. Maybe someone will. Or you could just call and ask your dealer what mounts will fit the projector or post the mount you are contemplating buying in this thread and maybe someone will help you. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

skylarlove1999 said:


> Sorry if i am wrong but you seem to be getting a bit snarky. You are asking an awful lot of fellow enthusiasts to remove their projector from the mount to do your work for you.


I agree.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> My doubts are that the dimensions between the 4 rows (from front to back) are not correct. I do not believe Epson would space these rows dissimilar distances apart. I cannot read an exact measurement from the given photos and I believe the most accurate way to determine them would be from a photo from above the holes where one could read the measuring tape more clearly. If these distances are accurate then I can draw the diagonal measurements between all the holes and check my mount against them. Clear enough?


If you call Epson Customer service they can provide the measurements since you seem to doubt the information being provided on the forum.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

DarrinH said:


> My doubts are that the dimensions between the 4 rows (from front to back) are not correct. I do not believe Epson would space these rows dissimilar distances apart. I cannot read an exact measurement from the given photos and I believe the most accurate way to determine them would be from a photo from above the holes where one could read the measuring tape more clearly. If these distances are accurate then I can draw the diagonal measurements between all the holes and check my mount against them. Clear enough?



If I understand your dilemma correctly, you are unsure if your current mount will line up with the mounting holes on your projector. May I suggest some additional investment in your set-up? Purchase a mount that has a universal mounting. Such mounts have adjustable arms that will line up perfectly with just about any projector. I'm using the Sanus VP1-B1. I'm sure there are others with a similar design. Once the projector is mounted using the variable mounting arm lengths, the Sanus has very easy to use pitch, yaw and tow adjustments for precise centering of the image on the screen, accomplished, in my case, via a long Phillips screwdriver to access the adjustments because of the proximity of the projector to the ceiling. If the projector has sufficient ceiling clearance access is possible with a standard length Phillips. I hope this helps.


----------



## DaveyMac

I just got the 4K UHD disc: A Beuatiful Planet - An IMAX Original Film....


It says right on cover: "IMAX Enhanced. Immersive Image, Sound and Scale. 


On movies like this is it typically best to turn on the HD10 and BT.2020 setting? Does the screen size need to be manually changed? Or just make sure it's 16:9 setting?


----------



## skylarlove1999

If anyone wants to see how good Football in 4K can look install the Fox Sports App. Showing the Rams versus Seahawks right now. 4k feed. Don't sign in using your TV provider since some providers like YouTubeTV get the game blacked out on the app. You get 30 minutes free. You can delete and reinstall the app and that starts another free 30 minutes. This feed looks better than the Fubotv 4k feed and better than Amazon Prime feed for Thursday Night Football. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## msp1982dk

Hi there!

This question will probably cause a facepalm or two, but here goes 

Seeing that this is not a true 4K projector, will I be able to show two 1080p images side-by-side?
E.g. by hooking up two Xboxes to a Bre4K HDMI Multiviewer.

Appreciate your input, thanks


----------



## MidnightWatcher

msp1982dk said:


> Hi there!
> 
> This question will probably cause a facepalm or two, but here goes
> 
> Seeing that this is not a true 4K projector, will I be able to show two 1080p images side-by-side?
> E.g. by hooking up two Xboxes to a Bre4K HDMI Multiviewer.
> 
> Appreciate your input, thanks


Yes you can do that. If you have two projectors.


----------



## msp1982dk

MidnightWatcher said:


> Yes you can do that. If you have two projectors.


Hahah, alright thanks, not quite what I had in mind though


----------



## DaveyMac

skylarlove1999 said:


> If anyone wants to see how good Football in 4K can look install the Fox Sports App. Showing the Rams versus Seahawks right now. 4k feed. Don't sign in using your TV provider since some providers like YouTubeTV get the game blacked out on the app. You get 30 minutes free. You can delete and reinstall the app and that starts another free 30 minutes. This feed looks better than the Fubotv 4k feed and better than Amazon Prime feed for Thursday Night Football.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I'm curious, what device are you using to broadcast the app to the Epson? Apple 4K TV? Roku? , ?


----------



## skylarlove1999

DaveyMac said:


> I'm curious, what device are you using to broadcast the app to the Epson? Apple 4K TV? Roku? , ?


Roku Ultra player connected directly by ethernet cord

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DaveyMac said:


> I'm curious, what device are you using to broadcast the app to the Epson? Apple 4K TV? Roku? , ?


Fubotv has a pretty good game college football game tomorrow in 4k on FS1 Oklahoma state versus Texas Tech .fubotv has a 7-Day free trial. You might want to check it out. Not sure if the Fox Sports app we'll have that game in 4k.


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaveyMac

skylarlove1999 said:


> Roku Ultra player connected directly by ethernet cord
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Ok I might just have to get the Roku. I have Apple 4K TV, which is a great little device.... EXCEPT when used with this NAD 758 - The NAD always just reads 'PCM Surround' - even if it's Dolby Atmos. That bothers me. I like to see what is being decoded on AVR. Apparently the A4TV decodes it before sending to AVR, and therefore strips the descriptions.


----------



## DaveyMac

skylarlove1999 said:


> Roku Ultra player connected directly by ethernet cord
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 
Ok I might just have to get the Roku. I have Apple 4K TV, which is a great little device.... EXCEPT when used with this NAD 758 - The NAD always just reads 'PCM Surround' - even if it's Dolby Atmos. That bothers me. I like to see what is being decoded on AVR. Apparently the A4TV decodes it before sending to AVR, and therefore strips the descriptions.


----------



## DarrinH

*Ugh, communication probelms...*

I am not asking any owner to unmount their projector, but someone may know this information without unmounting their projector. I can see the same info that you do on the projector bottom from in the manual and from your photo which is helpful. Thank you. The four rows from front of PJ to back of the PJ are not evenly spaced. You can see this from your measuring tape in the photo and you can notice this from the image of the projector bottom in the manual which you attached. The drawing I made (to scale) from your measuring tape is likely not correct which is why I am seeking additional info. So, I took the drawing from the image in the manual which does not have any dimensions between the holes and placed it to scale next to my scale drawing based on the photo which was given. I measured the distances between the holes on the image and it shows the rows are not evenly space apart from the front of the PJ to the back. This is best info that I now have for these distances between rows but I don't trust them from a drawing either (though it should be closer to accurate than reading the photo of the tape measure).


Therefore, can anyone else chime in who may know these distances please, or who may not have mounted their projector yet? I already have a mount.


Not snarky, just frustrated.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DaveyMac said:


> Ok I might just have to get the Roku. I have Apple 4K TV, which is a great little device.... EXCEPT when used with this NAD 758 - The NAD always just reads 'PCM Surround' - even if it's Dolby Atmos. That bothers me. I like to see what is being decoded on AVR. Apparently the A4TV decodes it before sending to AVR, and therefore strips the descriptions.


Sorry to hear of your issues. I can get Atmos from Vudu and Amazon Prime through my Roku Ultra. Through the Roku Netflix doesn't offer Atmos.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> I am not asking any owner to unmount their projector, but someone may know this information without unmounting their projector. I can see the same info that you do on the projector bottom from in the manual and from your photo which is helpful. Thank you. The four rows from front of PJ to back of the PJ are not evenly spaced. You can see this from your measuring tape in the photo and you can notice this from the image of the projector bottom in the manual which you attached. The drawing I made (to scale) from your measuring tape is likely not correct which is why I am seeking additional info. So, I took the drawing from the image in the manual which does not have any dimensions between the holes and placed it to scale next to my scale drawing based on the photo which was given. I measured the distances between the holes on the image and it shows the rows are not evenly space apart from the front of the PJ to the back. This is best info that I now have for these distances between rows but I don't trust them from a drawing either (though it should be closer to accurate than reading the photo of the tape measure).
> 
> 
> Therefore, can anyone else chime in who may know these distances please, or who may not have mounted their projector yet? I already have a mount.
> 
> 
> Not snarky, just frustrated.


I can certainly appreciate and understand your frustration. The two Center holes are apart by 2 and 7/8 in and the other ones are 3 and 3/8 in. Apart. I don't think I ever really noticed to be quite honest but yes they are definitely not evenly distributed between the four holes. My guess is this is just for weight distribution on the mount that you're using and the way the weight of the projector is balanced.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Bigfire

Bigfire said:


> Hi, just upgraded from the 5040 to the 5050, and I was wondering if there was anything special that needed to be done to enable HDR on the Xbox One X? I can get 4K, but I can't get HDR enabled to save my life. I've got replacement HDMI cables on the way, in case that's the issue, but if there's some special setting I need to make on the projector I'd love to hear about it.


If anybody's curious, it was a combination of replacing some HDMI cables and turning on expanded HDMI in my receiver. I have every mode available on the Xbox other than, of course, Dolby Vision.


----------



## biglen

For anyone who has been wondering if the 5050 is good for gaming, my son came over last night with his high end gaming laptop. He hooked it up to my 5050, and he was blown away that there was no lag at all. He's been a hardcore gamer for years, and has always had top of the line gaming monitors, so he would know if lag was an issue. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> For anyone who has been wondering if the 5050 is good for gaming, my son came over last night with his high end gaming laptop. He hooked it up to my 5050, and he was blown away that there was no lag at all. He's been a hardcore gamer for years, and has always had top of the line gaming monitors, so he would know if lag was an issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That is great news. Thank you for sharing.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jklow888

skylarlove1999 said:


> I can certainly appreciate and understand your frustration. The two Center holes are apart by 2 and 7/8 in and the other ones are 3 and 3/8 in. Apart. I don't think I ever really noticed to be quite honest but yes they are definitely not evenly distributed between the four holes. My guess is this is just for weight distribution on the mount that you're using and the way the weight of the projector is balanced.


With the exact measurements hopefully DarrinH can work out whether to use the existing mount or get a universal of choice. I recall when mounting my unit, the manual indicated to use (taking the lens from the front) rows 1 + 3 or 2 + 4 for weight distribution with 2 + 4 for wall mount. I tried both to see which gave the best center of gravity by picking it up from the mount itself and settled on rows 1 + 3 with my Peerless UNV mount.


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> Fubotv has a pretty good game college football game tomorrow in 4k on FS1 Oklahoma state versus Texas Tech .fubotv has a 7-Day free trial. You might want to check it out. Not sure if the Fox Sports app we'll have that game in 4k.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Fox Sports App is also showing this game today in 4K. It is actually 1080P that Fox has upscaled to 4K but it still looks fantastic. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## anilrao

Hi Guys,
I am glad to say that I took delivery of a 6050UB this last week. So far it looks great! 2D performance is exceptional to my eyes. No visible screendoor at the seating distance. 3D looks excellent also (with some very minor, fleeting crosstalk). Very pleased.
My setup: 
Room: 14x24, seating distance is 13'. Projector throw is 16.5'. Total light control. 
Screen: 140", 2.35:1, 1.1 gain.


----------



## skylarlove1999

anilrao said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am glad to say that I took delivery of a 6050UB this last week. So far it looks great! 2D performance is exceptional to my eyes. No visible screendoor at the seating distance. 3D looks excellent also (with some very minor, fleeting crosstalk). Very pleased.
> 
> My setup:
> 
> Room: 14x24, seating distance is 13'. Projector throw is 16.5'. Total light control.
> 
> Screen: 140", 2.35:1, 1.1 gain.


Congratulations. For the money I am not sure the image quality can be beaten. Had mine since May and I still am in awe. Fox Sports App has been showing Thursday Night Football in 4K. Fubo TV offers a seven day free trial. They also have Thursday Night Football in 4k and a NCAA football game on Saturday in 4K and ALCS coming up on 10/12 in 4K. ALCS should also be on the Fox Sports App in 4K and the NCAA football game of the week.


https://support.fubo.tv/hc/en-us/ar...hat-events-are-coming-up-in-4K-HDR-on-fuboTV-

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Congratulations. For the money I am not sure the image quality can be beaten. Had mine since May and I still am in awe. Fox Sports App has been showing Thursday Night Football in 4K. Fubo TV offers a seven day free trial. They also have Thursday Night Football in 4k and a NCAA football game on Saturday in 4K and ALCS coming up on 10/12 in 4K. ALCS should also be on the Fox Sports App in 4K and the NCAA football game of the week.
> 
> 
> https://support.fubo.tv/hc/en-us/ar...hat-events-are-coming-up-in-4K-HDR-on-fuboTV-
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


We watched the Packers Game in 4k last Thursday and I would flip back and forth between normal and the 4k and there is noticeable difference even if only upscale. 

Another option if you haven't cut the cord is DirecTV offers a 4k package and that's what we used. Looked amazing

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> We watched the Packers Game in 4k last Thursday and I would flip back and forth between normal and the 4k and there is noticeable difference even if only upscale.
> 
> Another option if you haven't cut the cord is DirecTV offers a 4k package and that's what we used. Looked amazing
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


So is just the Thursday Night Game on DirecTV in the upscaled 4k or do they do upscaled 4K for the Sunday NFL Ticket?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> So is just the Thursday Night Game on DirecTV in the upscaled 4k or do they do upscaled 4K for the Sunday NFL Ticket?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Only Thursday night games are upscaled right now from what I can see. There's big difference in broadcast quality depending on what game is being shown. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> Only Thursday night games are upscaled right now from what I can see. There's big difference in broadcast quality depending on what game is being shown.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Totally true. CBS and NBC are broadcast in 1080P. ABC, FOX and ESPN broadcast in 720P. When watching on a 55 to 65 inch television you barely notice the resolution difference. 100+ inch screen you can tell the difference between a good 720P broadcast and a poor one. Same for even 1080P. ESPN seems to have the best 720P. FOX usually the worst. CBS and NBC seem to alternate which 1080P feed looks better each week. Even the quality of the cameras in the stadium are a difference maker. You can easily tell which stadiums have newer cameras. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jbcain

I don't typically get onto these equipment specific threads but figured I could see how others are tweaking the picture settings.

Anyhow, I've had the 5050 since the week of release. I upgraded from an epson 5010e that had 2400hrs of flawless operation (original bulb). 

It's been a vast improvement in every facet so far. Quieter, much better picture and allowing the latest UHD movies to be played via HTPC and Roku Ultra. Watching the 4k football game last week was awesome.

Hopefully this Epson treats us as well as the 5010e did.


----------



## SALadder22FF

jbcain said:


> I don't typically get onto these equipment specific threads but figured I could see how others are tweaking the picture settings.
> 
> Anyhow, I've had the 5050 since the week of release. I upgraded from an epson 5010e that had 2400hrs of flawless operation (original bulb).
> 
> It's been a vast improvement in every facet so far. Quieter, much better picture and allowing the latest UHD movies to be played via HTPC and Roku Ultra. Watching the 4k football game last week was awesome.
> 
> Hopefully this Epson treats us as well as the 5010e did.


Are you getting the HDR on the live sporting broadcasts?


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> Are you getting the HDR on the live sporting broadcasts?


I don't think any live broadcasts support HLG(Hybrid Log-Gamma), the format for HDR when it is encoded in broadcast signal, as of yet. Please correct me if I am wrong. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> I don't think any live broadcasts support HLG(Hybrid Log-Gamma), the format for HDR when it is encoded in broadcast signal, as of yet. Please correct me if I am wrong.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The Thursday night football are being advertised as 4k with HDR. All the golf and NCAA are as well. My 5040 doesn't support the HLG and the HDR isn't great on it anyways so I was curious how it looks on the new 5050.










Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> The Thursday night football are being advertised as 4k with HDR. All the golf and NCAA are as well. My 5040 doesn't support the HLG and the HDR isn't great on it anyways so I was curious how it looks on the new 5050.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


It is possible that through DirecTV they are encoding HLG/HDR. HDR is really just for movies either disc or streaming. HLG is the format for broadcast. When I watched the Saturday NCAA football game and the NFL Thursday night game on my 6050 it is just SDR, same on the Fox Sports App and on the NFL Thursday Night game on Amazon Prime. I cut the cord two years ago from DirecTV. Please don't tell me I may need to go back. LOL. Can anyone confirm what the color format is for the 4K content on DirecTV? Thank you.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DarrinH

*5050UB Bottom Holes Dimensions Inbetween*

Thanks for the rows 1&3 suggestion. Here is the final drawing for anyone that may want to know. I will check my mount tonight.
The key distance for my mount if I use rows 1&3 would be a span of 13" + 5/16".
Will try to post photos and make an model number. It was a cheaper mount from Amazon but its weight limit is 5lb more that the weight of the projector. Just don't know if I trust it yet. Hope to purchase the projector before the end of the year.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> Thanks for the rows 1&3 suggestion. Here is the final drawing for anyone that may want to know. I will check my mount tonight.


If you want to post your make and model number for your Mount some people might be using it already with their 5050 or the 5040 which is the same exact chassis and they could confirm for you that yes it will work. Glad you were able to get a solution that will work for you.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

Snoochers said:


> Interesting read so far


What the hell is to see in 4k with football? Oh look at grass...


----------



## groggrog

skylarlove1999 said:


> It is possible that through DirecTV they are encoding HLG/HDR. HDR is really just for movies either disc or streaming. HLG is the format for broadcast. When I watched the Saturday NCAA football game and the NFL Thursday night game on my 6050 it is just SDR, same on the Fox Sports App and on the NFL Thursday Night game on Amazon Prime. I cut the cord two years ago from DirecTV. Please don't tell me I may need to go back. LOL. Can anyone confirm what the color format is for the 4K content on DirecTV? Thank you.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



From what I can tell Directv is broadcasting 4k in HLG. Works fine with the 5050UB but is always darker than non-4k. I have to set the brightness higher to get it to look good.


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> What the hell is to see in 4k with football? Oh look at grass...


Quite a lot actually but I'm not going to try to convince you I know you're very happy with your 1080p Panasonic projector which is an awesome projector

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

groggrog said:


> From what I can tell Directv is broadcasting 4k in HLG. Works fine with the 5050UB but is always darker than non-4k. I have to set the brightness higher to get it to look good.


Thank you for the input I appreciate you replying. Do you like the colors you get once you up the brightness does it look better to you than the SDR colors.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> Quite a lot actually but I'm not going to try to convince you I know you're very happy with your 1080p Panasonic projector which is an awesome projector
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


hahahahha This year Santa will be delivering my Epson 5050UB!


----------



## groggrog

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you for the input I appreciate you replying. Do you like the colors you get once you up the brightness does it look better to you than the SDR colors.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Honestly I don't recall. I usually end up putting on a 4k broadcast on one of the apps that also carry it rather than DirecTV. With the baseball games this week (I think) I'll definitely be trying it on Directv. I do know that they register with the 5050UB as HLG.


----------



## HTX^2steve

BTW...The AE-900U is a 1080i still laughing...that was a good one.


----------



## skylarlove1999

groggrog said:


> Honestly I don't recall. I usually end up putting on a 4k broadcast on one of the apps that also carry it rather than DirecTV. With the baseball games this week (I think) I'll definitely be trying it on Directv. I do know that they register with the 5050UB as HLG.


Cool thank you I love for you to report back since you can kind of go back and forth between hlg and SDR

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> BTW...The AE-900U is a 1080i still laughing...that was a good one.


I was being genuine. I know you have a really good projector that you're happy with.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> hahahahha This year Santa will be delivering my Epson 5050UB!


Good to hear it LOL. Finally making that Plunge. Maybe then you can tell us whether you think football in 4k is worth it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> I was being genuine. I know you have a really good projector that you're happy with.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The projector is my last upgrade from 2005 setup. Back and forth between audio upgrades and video upgrades over the years. I am happy now with my current 5.1.2 setup with the audio and the 120-inch screen and now the last upgrade for the next 10 years hopefully will be the 5050UB. 

I could have put myself though Med-School with all this!


----------



## eta1345

Hi all,

I am getting back into the projector business after about 4 years from selling my last one, Panasonic AE-8000U(think that was the number) and a Epson 6020ub. I have a weird room, as you can tell from the attached picks. The vaulted ceilings give me the most problems especially for a screen. I am going with a SI 92" scoped screen, solar white, 1.3 gain. Well it is really either the 92" or 80". The room is light controlled and the throw of the projector to screen should be around 18 ft. Will this be good for HDR or well I have any unforeseen problems? Please ignore the mess of the room and any help is appreciated.


----------



## skylarlove1999

eta1345 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> 
> 
> I am getting back into the projector business after about 4 years from selling my last one, Panasonic AE-8000U(think that was the number) and a Epson 6020ub. I have a weird room, as you can tell from the attached picks. The vaulted ceilings give me the most problems especially for a screen. I am going with a SI 92" scoped screen, solar white, 1.3 gain. Well it is really either the 92" or 80". The room is light controlled and the throw of the projector to screen should be around 18 ft. Will this be good for HDR or well I have any unforeseen problems? Please ignore the mess of the room and any help is appreciated.



Your room may be light controlled but you will have terrible room reflections from all the reflective white/gray surfaces. Honestly screen size is a personal choice but I would not put a white screen in that room. I would look into a good ALR screen. If not all the light being reflected back onto your screen will reduce contrast, black levels, shadow detail, specular highlights, etc.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

I don't even see a spot where you could put a screen. What are those panels on the walls?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## crossrh

eta1345 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I am getting back into the projector business after about 4 years from selling my last one, Panasonic AE-8000U(think that was the number) and a Epson 6020ub. I have a weird room, as you can tell from the attached picks. The vaulted ceilings give me the most problems especially for a screen. I am going with a SI 92" scoped screen, solar white, 1.3 gain. Well it is really either the 92" or 80". The room is light controlled and the throw of the projector to screen should be around 18 ft. Will this be good for HDR or well I have any unforeseen problems? Please ignore the mess of the room and any help is appreciated.


Do you have access to the space behind the walls? My room is like yours, at 12 feet wide. I put the 108" Carada screen on the short wall. I have access behind my walls, and installed 2 FI Car Audio IB318's as Infinite Baffle Subwoofers. OMG, that is amazing. Once you hear an IB setup, you'll never go back. Way cheaper, and way better. My Frequency Response is flat down to 5HZ. I'm off-topic, but at least it was short.

Rick


----------



## eta1345

skylarlove1999 said:


> Your room may be light controlled but you will have terrible room reflections from all the reflective white/gray surfaces. Honestly screen size is a personal choice but I would not put a white screen in that room. I would look into a good ALR screen. If not all the light being reflected back onto your screen will reduce contrast, black levels, shadow detail, specular highlights, etc.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I could always repaint the walls or put up some stick on velour on the walls so that is not that big of a deal. The other option with a SI screen was solar grey @ .85 gain. Both screens are ALR though. The white is 10% while the grey is 15%.


----------



## eta1345

biglen said:


> I don't even see a spot where you could put a screen. What are those panels on the walls?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Those are acoustic absorption panels that can be moved around easily. The screen will go in front of the door on post that will have hinges so it will swing out of the way. The room will be reconfigured from what it currently is.


----------



## skylarlove1999

eta1345 said:


> Those are acoustic absorption panels that can be moved around easily. The screen will go in front of the door on post that will have hinges so it will swing out of the way. The room will be reconfigured from what it currently is.


That is a pretty inventive way to get a big screen in that room. I can visualize it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## aeneas01

just set up an apple tv 4k with my 6050ud, my chain is:


apple tv 4k (infuse video player) > radiance pro > 6050ub


when i launch infuse and select a ripped 4k hdr video file, the pj screen flashes a bright green for a sec while (seemingly) the chain tries to adjust for the 4k hdr signal, and when stop the 4k hdr file i get the bright green flash again.


is anyone else experiencing this?


i don't remember this behavior when i first set things up but i have since made a few changes which may or may not be causing the issues... for example i changed the atv4k setting from 4:2:0 to 4:2:2 and i also turned on "match dynamic range" and "match frame rate" per vincent's recommendations.


----------



## Kelvin1000

I had similar problems and it turned out to be the HDMI cable.

I switched to an active BJC 40 foot cable and haven’t had a problem since even with 4K 60fps HDR 4:2:2 signals.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Looks like I might be upgrading sooner than I thought. 

My 5040Ube powered on like normal this morning and I had just started my Xbox and then it lost power. Didn't shut down. Lense cover still open. No blue light at all. Remote does not power it on and side button does either. 

Might have got the dreaded power failure. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> Looks like I might be upgrading sooner than I thought.
> 
> My 5040Ube powered on like normal this morning and I had just started my Xbox and then it lost power. Didn't shut down. Lense cover still open. No blue light at all. Remote does not power it on and side button does either.
> 
> Might have got the dreaded power failure.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Are you still under the 2-year warranty? Very sorry to hear of your power supply issue I had three of them with the same issue. Epson did take care of me every step of the way so I'm very grateful and thankful for that. Which is why I still have an Epson 6050 that is performed phenomenally since early May

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Are you still under the 2-year warranty? Very sorry to hear of your power supply issue I had three of them with the same issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'm afraid I missed it by a few months. Typed in the serial number and said expired Jan 2019. Service center is the option they offer. Idk if it's different cause it's already a refurbished.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> I'm afraid I missed it by a few months. Typed in the serial number and said expired Jan 2019. Service center is the option they offer. Idk if it's different cause it's already a refurbished.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


If you bought it refurbished I think it was only a one year warranty I believe

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> If you bought it refurbished I think it was only a one year warranty I believe
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


They sent me a refurbished one cause the one I bought brand new had power issue

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> They sent me a refurbished one cause the one I bought brand new had power issue
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


That completely stinks. I really had to strongly encourage them to do right by me. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> They sent me a refurbished one cause the one I bought brand new had power issue
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I sent you a PM 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## aeneas01

Kelvin1000 said:


> I had similar problems and it turned out to be the HDMI cable.
> 
> I switched to an active BJC 40 foot cable and haven’t had a problem since even with 4K 60fps HDR 4:2:2 signals.


i'm using a bjc series 3... when you say had a "similar" problem, are you saying that your screen also flashed bright green when starting and stopping 4k hdr ripped files?


----------



## Kelvin1000

Not specifically when playing ripped 4K HDR files but randomly when switching to different resolutions on the Apple TV especially when going into HDR 4:2:2 at times. The HDMI cable fixed all the issues for me.


----------



## DavidinGA

skylarlove1999 said:


> If you bought it refurbished I think it was only a one year warranty I believe
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


They get a full 2 year warranty. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

DavidinGA said:


> They get a full 2 year warranty.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


They have shipped me a refurbished unit. It will for now I guess. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidinGA said:


> They get a full 2 year warranty.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I know when you buy a new 5040/5050 you get a two year warranty. Didn't see any mention of any different length of warranty time for refurbished but that full 2 year warranty for a refurbished product goes against industry standards. I hope that is true.

https://epson.com/Clearance-Center/...ancement-and-HDR---Refurbished/p/V11H713020-N

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

skylarlove1999 said:


> I know when you buy a new 5040/5050 you get a two year warranty. Didn't see any mention of any different length of warranty time for refurbished but that full 2 year warranty for a refurbished product goes against industry standards. I hope that is true.
> 
> https://epson.com/Clearance-Center/...ancement-and-HDR---Refurbished/p/V11H713020-N
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah, normally you get a standard 1yr warranty on most stuff, but Epson is oddly doing it better than most here, even on refurbished stuff. 

I bought a refurbished 5040 myself and I manually checked my warranty info after getting mine and it's good for 2 years.

A very nice gesture by Epson indeed... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidinGA said:


> Yeah, normally you get a standard 1yr warranty on most stuff, but Epson is oddly doing it better than most here, even on refurbished stuff.
> 
> I bought a refurbished 5040 myself and I manually checked my warranty info after getting mine and it's good for 2 years.
> 
> A very nice gesture by Epson indeed...
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


That is awesome news. Thank you for confirming. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Every once in awhile, I'll turn my 5050 on, and the screen is just blue with my sources. No picture, no sound, just a blue screen. Is that a handshake issue, or is it something else? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Every once in awhile, I'll turn my 5050 on, and the screen is just blue with my sources. No picture, no sound, just a blue screen. Is that a handshake issue, or is it something else?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Sorry to hear that. Is it just upon turning the projector on for the first time and how long does it last?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Sorry to hear that. Is it just upon turning the projector on for the first time and how long does it last?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes, just when turning on for the first time. If I go back and forth with inputs on my receiver, then that fixes the issue. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Yes, just when turning on for the first time. If I go back and forth with inputs on my receiver, then that fixes the issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Found a really good explanation on another sight for HDMI handshake issues.

Digital components connected via HDMI use a copy protection system called HDCP. When components are switched on or connected, they talk to each other via the HDMI cable, verify the HDCP and then allow the picture to be displayed. This verification is commonly referred to as the "HDMI handshake."


With my home-theater system, the processor says "need HDCP monitor" when the handshake isn't established, and I find myself staring at a screen that either flickers or is solid blue or black.
Typically, changing inputs is all that is needed to establish the HDMI handshake. 

If you want to watch your cable box, change the input on your receiver to something else and change it back to the cable box. You can change it to any input, because all you are doing is breaking the connection between the cable box and the receiver and re-establishing it. This should get things working for you right away.


Your remote might be part of the problem. Many universal remotes have an option to turn all the components on at once with a single press of a button. The most reliable way to establish a good HDMI handshake is to turn on the television first and let it boot up, then turn on the receiver, then turn on the cable box and Blu-ray player. 


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

100% correct. 
Some universal remotes allow you to define the order of the components when powering up and also have the ability to add a delay to mitigate some of these handshake issues.


----------



## biglen

I'm not using a Universal Remote. When I turn on the 5050, it automatically turns on my AVR. My Xfinity box and Nvidia Shield are always on. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ShadowBoy

eta1345 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I am getting back into the projector business after about 4 years from selling my last one, Panasonic AE-8000U(think that was the number) and a Epson 6020ub. I have a weird room, as you can tell from the attached picks. The vaulted ceilings give me the most problems especially for a screen. I am going with a SI 92" scoped screen, solar white, 1.3 gain. Well it is really either the 92" or 80". The room is light controlled and the throw of the projector to screen should be around 18 ft. Will this be good for HDR or well I have any unforeseen problems? Please ignore the mess of the room and any help is appreciated.


Given it doesn't look like the seating would fit if it was shifted around to face the long length of the room, I would install a drop down screen on the wall beneath the acoustic panels above the tv. Then get an Ultra Short Throw projector and you're set to go. At the distance the sofa is from the screen it would be very immersive.


----------



## newtodirecttv

How close can I mount this projector for a 120" screen? Calculator shows 17' but I am pretty sure others have stated they are closer with their 120". Thanks!


----------



## newtodirecttv

newtodirecttv said:


> How close can I mount this projector for a 120" screen? Calculator shows 17' but I am pretty sure others have stated they are closer with their 120". Thanks!


Ok, may have answered this for myself! Can someone check my screenshot...looks like I could go to 12' and not have an issue? That look correct?


----------



## skylarlove1999

newtodirecttv said:


> How close can I mount this projector for a 120" screen? Calculator shows 17' but I am pretty sure others have stated they are closer with their 120". Thanks!


Did you change the zoom ratio to 2.1 to 1? Because that is the ratio for the 5050. I believe I am using the calculator correctly and I get a throw of 120 inches from as close as 11ft 10inches. You can always call Epson to confirm . I would.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

newtodirecttv said:


> How close can I mount this projector for a 120" screen? Calculator shows 17' but I am pretty sure others have stated they are closer with their 120". Thanks!


I'm at 13'3" for a 120" screen. I forget where I got that distance from, but that's what I read was the minimum distance for a 120" image. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## newtodirecttv

biglen said:


> I'm at 13'3" for a 120" screen. I forget where I got that distance from, but that's what I read was the minimum distance for a 120" image.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


How do you like it from that distance? Mind if I ask what screen and projector mount you are using? Did you go with a grey or white screen? How is the brightness levels for you? Thanks again and sorry for all the questions!


----------



## biglen

newtodirecttv said:


> How do you like it from that distance? Mind if I ask what screen and projector mount you are using? Did you go with a grey or white screen? How is the brightness levels for you? Thanks again and sorry for all the questions!


I like the distance a lot. My room is actually only 12'6" deep, so I ended up building a box in the wall, that goes back into my utility room. That gave me the 13'3" throw that I needed for a 120" image. I did a painted screen on the entire wall, with a paint called Black Flame. It's a light gray screen color. I went with a painted screen so I wouldn't have black bars when switching between 16:9 and Scope. The Black bars disappear into the gray screen.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## newtodirecttv

Recommendations for a 120” screen and mount for this projector?


----------



## WynsWrld98

biglen said:


> I like the distance a lot. My room is actually only 12'6" deep, so I ended up building a box in the wall, that goes back into my utility room. That gave me the 13'3" throw that I needed for a 120" image. I did a painted screen on the entire wall, with a paint called Black Flame. It's a light gray screen color. I went with a painted screen so I wouldn't have black bars when switching between 16:9 and Scope. The Black bars disappear into the gray screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Where did you get the Black Flame paint? What is the gain?


----------



## biglen

WynsWrld98 said:


> Where did you get the Black Flame paint? What is the gain?


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## gibson61

newtodirecttv said:


> Recommendations for a 120” screen and mount for this projector?



Silver Ticket screens are great screens. I use a 130in scope screen' I think it is 2:35 White 1.1 gain. I have had way more expensive screens but Silver Tickets are just as good.


----------



## skylarlove1999

gibson61 said:


> Silver Ticket screens are great screens. I use a 130in scope screen' I think it is 2:35 White 1.1 gain. I have had way more expensive screens but Silver Tickets are just as good.


Silver ticket screens are a great bang for your buck. I far as price/performance ratio hard to beat them. Saying they are just as good as more expensive screens IMHO is setting up new Silver Ticket Screen owners up for disappointment if they ever buy or experience a premium screen later on along their HT Journey. Premium screens are more expensive for a reason. It is open for personal debate as to whether you should spend the money. 


I would say not everyone would appreciate the difference. Not all people scrutinize the details of an image enough to spend the extra money. They are happy with a good image which Silver Ticket certainly provides. 

Elunevision Reference 4k screen is several steps up from Silver Ticket, as would be any screen from Seymour AV. Those screens are about 5 to 7 times the price of your standard Silver Ticket 1.1 gain white screen. People will argue on both sides why it is or isn't worth the extra money. That is a decision for each person. Most of us have budgets with which to work. 

Stewart filmscreen is considered by most to be the industry standard. At roughly ten times the cost of your low budget screens, such as Silver Ticket, it simply is out of many people's budget. I own a Seymour AV Glacier White perfectly smooth screen 120 inches. Honestly could not justify the money for the Stewart Studiotek 100 or ST130, but did notice the difference in image quality. Most of us have to compromise someplace . I will say, Seymour AV will sell their screen material by itself and they are very DIY friendly . They will prepare the screen edge several different ways to help with attachment to your DIY frame. So you can certainly save yourself some money there and still get a fantastic screen.

Obviously your room conditions will play a huge role in the performance of your screen/projector combination, much more than many people realize. If you cannot control your ambient light and room reflections from the walls , ceiling and to a lesser degree your floor, there are ambient light reducing screens to minimize the impact of those room conditions. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## newtodirecttv

skylarlove1999 said:


> Silver ticket screens are a great bang for your buck. I far as price/performance ratio hard to beat them. Saying they are just as good as more expensive screens IMHO is setting up new Silver Ticket Screen owners up for disappointment if they ever buy or experience a premium screen later on along their HT Journey. Premium screens are more expensive for a reason. It is open for personal debate as to whether you should spend the money.
> 
> 
> I would say not everyone would appreciate the difference. Not all people scrutinize the details of an image enough to spend the extra money. They are happy with a good image which Silver Ticket certainly provides.
> 
> Elunevision Reference 4k screen is several steps up from Silver Ticket, as would be any screen from Seymour AV. Those screens are about 5 to 7 times the price of your standard Silver Ticket 1.1 gain white screen. People will argue on both sides why it is or isn't worth the extra money. That is a decision for each person. Most of us have budgets with which to work.
> 
> Stewart filmscreen is considered by most to be the industry standard. At roughly ten times the cost of your low budget screens, such as Silver Ticket, it simply is out of many people's budget. I own a Seymour AV Glacier White perfectly smooth screen 120 inches. Honestly could not justify the money for the Stewart Studiotek 100 or ST130, but did notice the difference in image quality. Most of us have to compromise someplace . I will say, Seymour AV will sell their screen material by itself and they are very DIY friendly . They will prepare the screen edge several different ways to help with attachment to your DIY frame. So you can certainly save yourself some money there and still get a fantastic screen.
> 
> Obviously your room conditions will play a huge role in the performance of your screen/projector combination, much more than many people realize. If you cannot control your ambient light and room reflections from the walls , ceiling and to a lesser degree your floor, there are ambient light reducing screens to minimize the impact of those room conditions.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks so much for the information. If were having a professional install my screen and projector, how much should I expect to pay?


----------



## newtodirecttv

If I were paying a professional to just mount my projector and assemble and install a Silver Ticket 120" screen about how much should I expect to pay?


----------



## Gellert1

Can anyone explain to me how to force the Epson 5050ub to convert a 2D side by side video into normal 3D?

I purchased a Blu-ray movie disc from a small movie studio which was filmed in 3D, but the Epson doesn't recognize the movie as 3D and throws it on the screen as 2D side by side. My 3D setting button is greyed out within the Epson's menu so I can't click on it.

Anyone have a workaround? I looked through the Epson's manual and it doesn't offer any help. Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

newtodirecttv said:


> Thanks so much for the information. If were having a professional install my screen and projector, how much should I expect to pay?


I would call around and get some quotes. Too many variables for me to guess. Geographical location, do you need HDMI/electrical/CAT run to the projector, drop ceiling versus drywall, basement versus attic or first floor installation , running dedicated line and breaker to your electrical panel, etc. I would guess basic install minimum $300-$400, meaning no electrical and easy access to the ceiling to run your HDMI. Also are they just hanging the projector or are they connecting the equipment and doing some system verification, HDMI handshake issues, aligning the projector, etc. 

Do you need to hire an electrician to wire an outlet? So many variables. I could go on but I try to stop my OCD from kicking in to high gear. LOL. I have always hung my own projectors but leave the electrical work to the professionals. The actual hanging of the projector and the screen isn't as complicated as one might think depending upon location in house and how handy a person is with a drill and a level. Hitting studs for the projector mount and screen mounts are paramount for years of viewing enjoyment. Hanging the screen is basically like mounting a gigantic picture frame on the wall. LOL. If you are not handy or your time is just more valuable, than I would employ the help of professionals.


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Gellert said:


> Can anyone explain to me how to force the Epson 5050ub to convert a 2D side by side video into normal 3D?
> 
> I purchased a Blu-ray movie disc from a small movie studio which was filmed in 3D, but the Epson doesn't recognize the movie as 3D and throws it on the screen as 2D side by side. My 3D setting button is greyed out within the Epson's menu so I can't click on it.
> 
> Anyone have a workaround? I looked through the Epson's manual and it doesn't offer any help. Thanks.


I am unaware of the feature on the Epson 5050 that would convert a 2D image into a 3D image. I know some 3D televisions offered that ability. Does anyone know if the 5050 can convert a 2D image into 3D? 



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Gellert said:


> Can anyone explain to me how to force the Epson 5050ub to convert a 2D side by side video into normal 3D?
> 
> I purchased a Blu-ray movie disc from a small movie studio which was filmed in 3D, but the Epson doesn't recognize the movie as 3D and throws it on the screen as 2D side by side. My 3D setting button is greyed out within the Epson's menu so I can't click on it.
> 
> Anyone have a workaround? I looked through the Epson's manual and it doesn't offer any help. Thanks.


It will only do 3D if your source is set to output 1080p. If it's set to 4k, the 3D button will be grayed out. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## DavidinGA

*Iris Settings Question...*


Where does everyone run their iris settings at and what is your viewing environment (bat cave, dark walls/ceiling, light walls/ceiling, etc)?

I've heard you can pump up your contrast by running negative iris numbers, but I'm not terribly familiar with the pro's/con's of doing so.

I have a light-colored multi-use room, but the first few feet of my screen is draped in triple black velvet (floor/ceiling/walls); so I'm not sure where I would fall for iris settings with my environment.

I run a 150" display and I'm measuring 98nits in my go-to setting on my Epson 5040 (using madVR for DTM) so I can afford a drop in lumens if it facilitates an improvement in CR.


Thanks




...and yes I know this is the 5050 thread, but it applies well enough for the 5040 for your comments to be helpful.


----------



## DarrinH

DavidinGA said:


> *Iris Settings Question...*
> 
> 
> Where does everyone run their iris settings at and what is your viewing environment (bat cave, dark walls/ceiling, light walls/ceiling, etc)?
> 
> I've heard you can pump up your contrast by running negative iris numbers, but I'm not terribly familiar with the pro's/con's of doing so.
> 
> I have a light-colored multi-use room, but the first few feet of my screen is draped in triple black velvet (floor/ceiling/walls); so I'm not sure where I would fall for iris settings with my environment.
> 
> I run a 150" display and I'm measuring 98nits in my go-to setting on my Epson 5040 (using madVR for DTM) so I can afford a drop in lumens if it facilitates an improvement in CR.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and yes I know this is the 5050 thread, but it applies well enough for the 5040 for your comments to be helpful.


I'd like to know as I will have a 5050 this year and will be using a 150" screen. Planning on the velvet surround for the first 3 to 4 feet from the screen as well.


----------



## Alaric

DavidinGA said:


> *Iris Settings Question...*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where does everyone run their iris settings at and what is your viewing environment (bat cave, dark walls/ceiling, light walls/ceiling, etc)?
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard you can pump up your contrast by running negative iris numbers, but I'm not terribly familiar with the pro's/con's of doing so.


Technically the iris won't effect your contrast ratio at all.... It reduces the light from the projector, less light when dark, but equally less light when bright.... And contrast ratio is the difference between light and dark - so a fixed setting won't do anything there! 

Dynamic iris works by letting more light in the bright, but less light in the dark. The trade off is speed (bump) and noise.

You set the iris by peak light on a full white screen... Restricting 1080p to 14-16ftl iirc - that'll vary by screen size, zoom and mounting.

You can reduce the iris down to improve the black level, but you'll reduce peak light and it'll give a dim display and at 150" you probably have the iris close to fully open anyway! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

Alaric said:


> Technically the iris won't effect your contrast ratio at all.... It reduces the light from the projector, less light when dark, but equally less light when bright.... And contrast ratio is the difference between light and dark - so a fixed setting won't do anything there!
> 
> Dynamic iris works by letting more light in the bright, but less light in the dark. The trade off is speed (bump) and noise.
> 
> You set the iris by peak light on a full white screen... Restricting 1080p to 14-16ftl iirc - that'll vary by screen size, zoom and mounting.
> 
> You can reduce the iris down to improve the black level, but you'll reduce peak light and it'll give a dim display and at 150" you probably have the iris close to fully open anyway!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Thanks. 

So really the manual iris options are more about getting lower black levels at the cost of total image brightness...right?


Im sitting at 23FL (or almost 100nits) in Natural mode medium lamp on my 150", so ya I don't know if I'd like the dimmer overall image... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

DavidinGA said:


> Thanks.
> 
> So really the manual iris options are more about getting lower black levels at the cost of total image brightness...right?
> 
> 
> Im sitting at 23FL (or almost 100nits) in Natural mode medium lamp on my 150", so ya I don't know if I'd like the dimmer overall image...
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Yes you should be at 16FL for SDR. Obviously HDR is a different story. Lots of people perfer to run higher than 16


----------



## Alaric

DavidinGA said:


> Thanks.
> 
> So really the manual iris options are more about getting lower black levels at the cost of total image brightness...right?
> 
> 
> Im sitting at 23FL (or almost 100nits) in Natural mode medium lamp on my 150", so ya I don't know if I'd like the dimmer overall image...
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Yup. Manual iris just reduces light output across the whole range, like on a camera, where the concept comes from!

23FL is very bright for SDR though. May well be worth stoppering down a bit and see what you think. 
HDR is another matter! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

Alaric said:


> Yup. Manual iris just reduces light output across the whole range, like on a camera, where the concept comes from!
> 
> 23FL is very bright for SDR though. May well be worth stoppering down a bit and see what you think.
> HDR is another matter!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Ok, thanks.

I hardly ever watch SDR, this is my setup in conjunction with MadVR and the live algo (build 96 now) for HDR (which is why it's brighter). I'm using its tone-mapping options where I can vary my image brightness via its actual nits value field if I need to. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Alaric said:


> Yup. Manual iris just reduces light output across the whole range, like on a camera, where the concept comes from!
> 
> 23FL is very bright for SDR though. May well be worth stoppering down a bit and see what you think.
> HDR is another matter!
> 
> Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


Yeah HDR is completely different plus when the filter is engaged it nearly half’s the light output anyway so chances are your iris will be nearly fully open and with a 150” will have switched to a higher lamp mode.

I’m currently debating whether to switch to a Matt grey screen, to give me the option to run a little bit of light when mates are over to watch some footie or motor racing and gain a bit deeper blacks when the lights are out. The only killer is the Epson will need recalibrated and it will require another call to Gordon.


----------



## skylarlove1999

If you have DirectTV the first ever native 4K Football game will be broadcast by ESPN. The NFL Thursday night broadcast has been 1080P upscaled to 4K. The LSU vs Florida game at 8:00 Eastern time will be native 4K but will not be available anywhere other than DirecTV. 

https://www.engadget.com/2019/10/10...e01j9iPelocx0hmkPIDriYgnhmvwCjAFzFWFAeaOfWIuR

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> If you have DirectTV the first ever native 4K Football game will be broadcast by ESPN. The NFL Thursday night broadcast has been 1080P upscaled to 4K. The LSU vs Florida game at 8:00 Eastern time will be native 4K but will not be available anywhere other than DirecTV.
> 
> https://www.engadget.com/2019/10/10...e01j9iPelocx0hmkPIDriYgnhmvwCjAFzFWFAeaOfWIuR
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'm assuming my UVERSE (which owns Direct TV) won't be showing this in 4K. Bummer.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> I'm assuming my UVERSE (which owns Direct TV) won't be showing this in 4K. Bummer.


99% no for this first game. I am hopeful towards the end of this 6 game trial run that all services broadcasting ESPN including streaming like Sling, AT&T Now, YouTubeTV, and Hulu with Live TV will get the opportunity for the 4K broadcast. Really crappy move on ESPN's part IMHO. DirecTV must have really put some extra coins in the collection plate for ESPN to give the proverbial finger to all of their other business partners. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> 99% no for this first game. I am hopeful towards the end of this 6 game trial run that all services broadcasting ESPN including streaming like Sling, AT&T Now, YouTubeTV, and Hulu with Live TV will get the opportunity for the 4K broadcast. Really crappy move on ESPN's part IMHO. DirecTV must have really put some extra coins in the collection plate for ESPN to give the proverbial finger to all of their other business partners.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Update: Comcast will also broadcast the LSU vs. Florida game on ESPN in native 4K. Looks like Comcast got wind of this DirecTV exclusive and threw their considerable weight around. @biglen this is good news for you. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Update: Comcast will also broadcast the LSU vs. Florida game on ESPN in native 4K. Looks like Comcast got wind of this DirecTV exclusive and threw their considerable weight around. @biglen this is good news for you.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Nice ! Thanks for the update !

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## matbhuvi

Can anyone recommend a good 3d glass? Is theren't anything as good as Epson's ELPGS03 with lesser price point?


----------



## fredworld

matbhuvi said:


> Can anyone recommend a good 3d glass? Is theren't anything as good as Epson's ELPGS03 with lesser price point?



The Samsung SSG-4100GB active glasses work great for me. Search for them, I'm sure an equivalent can be found. These might also work but I'd check into their compatibility with Epson 5050: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-SAMSUN...8542?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0


----------



## aeneas01

wanted to play around with the 6050ub's frame interpolation settings even tho i'm sure i'll never use it, but for the life of me i can't output a signal from my apple tv 4k that will un-gray / unlock the interpolation setting, i've tried changing just about every output setting the atv4k has to offer including changing resolutions, chroma, hdr, sdr, etc. and i've also changing the pj's mode per the manual: "This feature may not be available depending on the projection mode and input signal."


any thoughts?


----------



## bezlar

For the people that switched from a 5040 to 5050 are you happy with the difference or would you rather have your money back? I can’t decide if it’s worth the switch. Also is my 5040 worth $1000 used? Just wondering what the 5040 is worth now. Thanks 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

aeneas01 said:


> wanted to play around with the 6050ub's frame interpolation settings even tho i'm sure i'll never use it, but for the life of me i can't output a signal from my apple tv 4k that will un-gray / unlock the interpolation setting, i've tried changing just about every output setting the atv4k has to offer including changing resolutions, chroma, hdr, sdr, etc. and i've also changing the pj's mode per the manual: "This feature may not be available depending on the projection mode and input signal."
> 
> 
> any thoughts?



See this part of this forum for some advice.


----------



## garnuts

aeneas01 said:


> wanted to play around with the 6050ub's frame interpolation settings even tho i'm sure i'll never use it, but for the life of me i can't output a signal from my apple tv 4k that will un-gray / unlock the interpolation setting, i've tried changing just about every output setting the atv4k has to offer including changing resolutions, chroma, hdr, sdr, etc. and i've also changing the pj's mode per the manual: "This feature may not be available depending on the projection mode and input signal."
> 
> 
> any thoughts?


From page 88 of the manual:


----------



## skylarlove1999

garnuts said:


> From page 88 of the manual:


Both your Apple TV and your AVR can upscale the 1080p signal to 4K. Since you are trying to use the frame interpolation feature you need to make sure the AVR and the Apple 4K TV or not upscaling the signal to 4K because the only way you can use the frame interpolation feature is by sending a projector a 1080p signal

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

bezlar said:


> For the people that switched from a 5040 to 5050 are you happy with the difference or would you rather have your money back? I can’t decide if it’s worth the switch. Also is my 5040 worth $1000 used? Just wondering what the 5040 is worth now. Thanks
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I am totally thrilled with the 5050 everything is better about the projector black level HDR and sharpness

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> wanted to play around with the 6050ub's frame interpolation settings even tho i'm sure i'll never use it, but for the life of me i can't output a signal from my apple tv 4k that will un-gray / unlock the interpolation setting, i've tried changing just about every output setting the atv4k has to offer including changing resolutions, chroma, hdr, sdr, etc. and i've also changing the pj's mode per the manual: "This feature may not be available depending on the projection mode and input signal."
> 
> 
> any thoughts?


Both your Apple TV and your AVR can upscale the 1080p signal to 4K. Since you are trying to use the frame interpolation feature you need to make sure the AVR and the Apple 4K TV are not upscaling the signal to 4K because the only way you can use the frame interpolation feature is by sending a projector a 1080p signal

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Alaric

skylarlove1999 said:


> Both your Apple TV and your AVR can upscale the 1080p signal to 4K. Since you are trying to use the frame interpolation feature you need to make sure the AVR and the Apple 4K TV or not upscaling the signal to 4K because the only way you can use the frame interpolation feature is by sending a projector a 1080p signal
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Indeed. If you look at Projector / info in the menu it will tell you the signal that the projector is receiving.... If FI is greyed out, it'll be because something is upscaling, so check here first to troubleshoot! 

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk


----------



## aeneas01

skylarlove1999 said:


> Both your Apple TV and your AVR can upscale the 1080p signal to 4K. Since you are trying to use the frame interpolation feature you need to make sure the AVR and the Apple 4K TV or not upscaling the signal to 4K because the only way you can use the frame interpolation feature is by sending a projector a 1080p signal
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


yes, fully aware of the 1080p limit, pj shows 1080p input when setting the atv4k o 1080p/60 output, interpolation still grayed out, must be a mode setting, have you actually tried it?


----------



## aeneas01

garnuts said:


> From page 88 of the manual:


yes, must be a mode setting i need to change, had already changed the atv4k to 1080p/60 output, which the pj info shows as input, but still no interpolation access, still grayed out, have you tried interpolation, have you seen it when it wasn't grayed out?


----------



## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> yes, fully aware of the 1080p limit, pj shows 1080p input when setting the atv4k o 1080p/60 output, interpolation still grayed out, must be a mode setting, have you actually tried it?


I have used it with my Roku Ultra and Denon 6500 connecting to my 6050. I can get the frame Interpolation to work. I have gotten it to work at 1080P/60HZ but this FAQ says it is limited to 1080P/24HZ. Did you try it at that resolution?


https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H930020~faq-0000bcf-hc5050ub_ube?faq_cat=faq-8796127471692

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

aeneas01 said:


> yes, must be a mode setting i need to change, had already changed the atv4k to 1080p/60 output, which the pj info shows as input, but still no interpolation access, still grayed out, have you tried interpolation, have you seen it when it wasn't grayed out?


Make sure you set Image Processing to Fine. FI will be grayed out if it's not set to that. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Make sure you set Image Processing to Fine. FI will be grayed out if it's not set to that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks Len that is the part I couldn't remember 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> yes, must be a mode setting i need to change, had already changed the atv4k to 1080p/60 output, which the pj info shows as input, but still no interpolation access, still grayed out, have you tried interpolation, have you seen it when it wasn't grayed out?


Did you get it to work?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## aeneas01

skylarlove1999 said:


> Did you get it to work?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 won't get a chance to try again until tonight, have you tried interpolation, have you been able to set up your system where interpolation isn't grayed out?


EDIT - just noticed your previous post, so you did get it to work at both 60 and 24, what did you think?


----------



## aeneas01

biglen said:


> Make sure you set Image Processing to Fine. FI will be grayed out if it's not set to that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


yes, will double check this setting, but isn't that the default setting? if so i've never changed it... expanded edid wouldn't have anything to do with it would it?


----------



## biglen

aeneas01 said:


> yes, will double check this setting, but isn't that the default setting? if so i've never changed it... expanded edid wouldn't have anything to do with it would it?


It wasn't default for me. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> yes, will double check this setting, but isn't that the default setting? if so i've never changed it... expanded edid wouldn't have anything to do with it would it?


I believe the default setting is fine. Expanded is just for the color formats . Should not have any impact. You can always try connecting the AT4K directly to the projector. What receiver are you using? My guess is your receiver is upscaling the signal from 1080P to 4K because it recognizes your display as 4K/60FPS. Just my guess. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## aeneas01

skylarlove1999 said:


> I believe the default setting is fine. Expanded is just for the color formats . Should not have any impact. You can always try connecting the AT4K directly to the projector. What receiver are you using? My guess is your receiver is upscaling the signal from 1080P to 4K because it recognizes your display as 4K/60FPS. Just my guess.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


cx-a5100, passthrough, pj info shows 1080p input, interpolation grayed out, will double check the mode tonight... so what did you think about the epson's interpolation, did you try all of the settings, hi/med/low, how did it look, soap opera?


----------



## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> cx-a5100, passthrough, pj info shows 1080p input, interpolation grayed out, will double check the mode tonight... so what did you think about the epson's interpolation, did you try all of the settings, hi/med/low, how did it look, soap opera?


I liked it for sports but not anything else. I do not like the soap opera effect. I thought sports upscaled from 1080P to 4k looked better than 1080P with the Frame Interpolation on.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> cx-a5100, passthrough, pj info shows 1080p input, interpolation grayed out, will double check the mode tonight... so what did you think about the epson's interpolation, did you try all of the settings, hi/med/low, how did it look, soap opera?


That is a very nice Yamaha receiver. I would check that Fine setting on the projector. If the projector info shows 1080 as the resolution than it has to be that Fine setting.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> I liked it for sports but not anything else. I do not like the soap opera effect. I thought sports upscaled from 1080P to 4k looked better than 1080P with the Frame Interpolation on.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I agree with everything you said. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

The fox sports app will be streaming all of the ALCS Yankees vs Astros series in 4K starting tonight. It is the Fox Sports app not the fox sports go app. When you open the app just choose Maybe Later at every screen. You then get a free hour to watch. After an hour you get locked out. Then just delete the app and reinstall and voila another free hour. So 3 or 4 times to watch the whole game. For free. In 4K. You can sign up and sign in with your television provider and it is still free. That would eliminate the need to keep deleting and installing the app. Unless you are a YouTubeTV subscriber like me and then Fox blacks out the 4K broadcast. Thanks a lot Fox. 

There is also a 4k football game tonight in the app. Nebraska versus Minnesota 










Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## aeneas01

skylarlove1999 said:


> That is a very nice Yamaha receiver. I would check that Fine setting on the projector. If the projector info shows 1080 as the resolution than it has to be that Fine setting.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


yeah, the cx-a5100 has been great, have absolutely loved it, have been using it every day, 10 hours a day, for the last 4 years (restaurant installation), all it does is work, the 11-channel setting + party mode is simply incredible for commercial applications... just wish the apple tv 4k supported atmos movie files (in fact i wish it also supported youtube hdr), have a great atmos setup, but i've been playing around with a few of the surround settings that the yamaha offers using my atmos demo discs and i don't think it's going to be a big deal, some of the surround settings do an excellent job with a pcm input.

yes, the pj does show 1080p so i'm assuming the mode is set to fine, but will double check the mode tonight, because as i said even though the pj info shows the input as 1080p interpolation is still grayed out.

also, fwiw, the reason i even asked about the interpolation settings is because with my last pj, a 1080p benq, i played around with interpolation software called svp which had a ton of tweaking capabilities and could be added to the mpv movie player config file, as a result when i streamed movie files using plex i could use the interpolation software, and the results were pretty amazing on some titles.

for example "oblivion", the opening scene when cruise picks out some weapons and then jumps into his drone, flips switches and tests the pedals, it was just off the hook incredible, so much so that anyone who saw it couldn't believe it, it wasn't a movie, it was super high definition window to the scene, so i wanted to see if the epson's interpolation settings came close to this... all of that said, the svp interpolation software failed on much more than it shined on (imo), lots of artifacts and over the top soap opera effect, much of which could be mitigated if your thing was adjusting the software settings every time you watched a movie, which wasn't for me.


----------



## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> yeah, the cx-a5100 has been great, have absolutely loved it, have been using it every day, 10 hours a day, for the last 4 years (restaurant installation), all it does is work, the 11-channel setting + party mode is simply incredible for commercial applications... just wish the apple tv 4k supported atmos movie files (in fact i wish it also supported youtube hdr), have a great atmos setup, but i've been playing around with a few of the surround settings that the yamaha offers using my atmos demo discs and i don't think it's going to be a big deal, some of the surround settings do an excellent job with a pcm input.
> 
> yes, the pj does show 1080p so i'm assuming the mode is set to fine, but will double check the mode tonight, because as i said even though the pj info shows the input as 1080p interpolation is still grayed out.
> 
> also, fwiw, the reason i even asked about the interpolation settings is because with my last pj, a 1080p benq, i played around with interpolation software called svp which had a ton of tweaking capabilities and could be added to the mpv movie player config file, as a result when i streamed movie files using plex i could use the interpolation software, and the results were pretty amazing on some titles.
> 
> for example "oblivion", the opening scene when cruise picks out some weapons and then jumps into his drone, flips switches and tests the pedals, it was just off the hook incredible, so much so that anyone who saw it couldn't believe it, it wasn't a movie, it was super high definition window to the scene, so i wanted to see if the epson's interpolation settings came close to this... all of that said, the svp interpolation software failed on much more than it shined on (imo), lots of artifacts and over the top soap opera effect, much of which could be mitigated if your thing was adjusting the software settings every time you watched a movie, which wasn't for me.


I know ATV4K now supports Atmos for iTunes movies. I do not know if that is just the latest ATV4K models or if firmware updates were made available for previous generations. 

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204069

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> The fox sports app will be streaming all of the ALCS Yankees vs Astros series in 4K starting tonight. It is the Fox Sports app not the fox sports go app. When you open the app just choose Maybe Later at every screen. You then get a free hour to watch. After an hour you get locked out. Then just delete the app and reinstall and voila another free hour. So 3 or 4 times to watch the whole game. For free. In 4K. You can sign up and sign in with your television provider and it is still free. That would eliminate the need to keep deleting and installing the app. Unless you are a YouTubeTV subscriber like me and then Fox blacks out the 4K broadcast. Thanks a lot Fox.
> 
> There is also a 4k football game tonight in the app. Nebraska versus Minnesota
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Damn, I was all excited to put the app on my Shield to watch those games in 4k, but 4k streams from the app don't work on the Shield, according to the FAQ. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Damn, I was all excited to put the app on my Shield to watch those games in 4k, but 4k streams from the app don't work on the Shield, according to the FAQ.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That stinks. Sorry to hear that. Sounds like you need a Roku Ultra player. LOL . At least you get to watch that LSU vs Florida game in 4k courtesy of ESPN and Comcast. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> The fox sports app will be streaming all of the ALCS Yankees vs Astros series in 4K starting tonight. It is the Fox Sports app not the fox sports go app. When you open the app just choose Maybe Later at every screen. You then get a free hour to watch. After an hour you get locked out. Then just delete the app and reinstall and voila another free hour. So 3 or 4 times to watch the whole game. For free. In 4K. You can sign up and sign in with your television provider and it is still free. That would eliminate the need to keep deleting and installing the app. Unless you are a YouTubeTV subscriber like me and then Fox blacks out the 4K broadcast. Thanks a lot Fox.
> 
> There is also a 4k football game tonight in the app. Nebraska versus Minnesota
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



So my Roku says 4K and is playing as such on my Vizio 4K tv it's hooked up to. My Apple TV doesn't show that it's in 4K and that's what's hooked up to my 1080P projector. I have Uverse which both are linked to. Who knows. Anyway....the 4K pic on the Vizio for the game is legit.


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> That stinks. Sorry to hear that. Sounds like you need a Roku Ultra player. LOL . At least you get to watch that LSU vs Florida game in 4k courtesy of ESPN and Comcast.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The Roku doesn't do HD audio. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> So my Roku says 4K and is playing as such on my Vizio 4K tv it's hooked up to. My Apple TV doesn't show that it's in 4K and that's what's hooked up to my 1080P projector. I have Uverse which both are linked to. Who knows. Anyway....the 4K pic on the Vizio for the game is legit.


Oh yeah watching Nebraska Minnesota right now on my 6050. Pictures look spectacular and no annoying commercials. LOL. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> The Roku doesn't do HD audio.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Maybe for some apps. But in VUDU and Amazon Prime I can get Dolby Atmos . The Shield is an amazing device. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> Oh yeah watching Nebraska Minnesota right now on my 6050. Pictures look spectacular and no annoying commercials. LOL.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



This is the first time I've seen a 4K game (on my TV anyway) and wow. I came back out to my main room watching regular old compressed football on a 150" screen and all of the sudden it doesn't look as good as it did an hour ago. I really need that 4K upgraded projector.


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## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> This is the first time I've seen a 4K game (on my TV anyway) and wow. I came back out to my main room watching regular old compressed football on a 150" screen and all of the sudden it doesn't look as good as it did an hour ago. I really need that 4K upgraded projector.


Make sure you give the baseball game a try

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

LSU vs Fla 4k on Comcast









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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> LSU vs Fla 4k on Comcast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That looks fantastic. I hate ESPN for only letting Comast and DirecTV have the 4K broadcast. Happy for you though. Dollars talk and those companies have some of the deepest pockets. I assume ESPN just went to the cable providers and asked how many 4K capable boxes do you have in customer homes and chose to provide the feed to the providers with the most.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> That looks fantastic. I hate ESPN for only letting Comast and DirecTV have the 4K broadcast. Happy for you though. Dollars talk and those companies have some of the deepest pockets. I assume ESPN just went to the cable providers and asked how many 4K capable boxes do you have in customer homes and chose to provide the feed to the providers with the most.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Well, you're getting those games on Fox, so I'm mad that I can't get those games. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Well, you're getting those games on Fox, so I'm mad that I can't get those games.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


LOL . I will trade you ALCS game 1 in 4K + Nebraska vs Minnesota in 4K for Florida vs LSU in 4K. Don't forget you get Atmos for your game as well. LOL. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> LSU vs Fla 4k on Comcast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Nebraska vs Minnesota 4K on Fox Sports App.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> LOL . I will trade you ALCS game 1 in 4K + Nebraska vs Minnesota in 4K for Florida vs LSU in 4K. Don't forget you get Atmos for your game as well. LOL.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Oh yeah. I'll pass on that trade. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Oh yeah. I'll pass on that trade.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Plus honestly the FOX sports app is a little buggy but really spectacular picture. It is not even true 4K it is upscaled 1080P broadcast in 4K. The Florida vs LSU game is native 4k . No upscaling for you. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## ckronengold

Bummed to be chiming in again after a nice run of enjoying my 5050, but alas ...

Last night I got the dreaded flashing orange light when the projector was off. Obviously checked the manual and found "call Epson" trouble shooting step.

Damnit.

I did a search in the thread and saw a few of you guys had the same issue, but didn't see anyone post any kind of fix or cause. Just sending it back. 

If I send this back, I'll be on my 4th unit. I still think there's something wrong with this projector, even if the odds of problems appearing in a forum are way higher than gen pop. 

What really misses me off is that unit #3 came with a letter from the Quality Control team saying the unit had been inspected before it was shipped. 

So, orange light folks, how it work out for you?



Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


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## DavidinGA

ckronengold said:


> Bummed to be chiming in again after a nice run of enjoying my 5050, but alas ...
> 
> Last night I got the dreaded flashing orange light when the projector was off. Obviously checked the manual and found "call Epson" trouble shooting step.
> 
> Damnit.
> 
> I did a search in the thread and saw a few of you guys had the same issue, but didn't see anyone post any kind of fix or cause. Just sending it back.
> 
> If I send this back, I'll be on my 4th unit. I still think there's something wrong with this projector, even if the odds of problems appearing in a forum are way higher than gen pop.
> 
> What really misses me off is that unit #3 came with a letter from the Quality Control team saying the unit had been inspected before it was shipped.
> 
> So, orange light folks, how it work out for you?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


It's amazing they didn't learn from the 5040 psu issues...or don't care. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## jv3jd

Setting up my 6050ub and noticed a complete lack of shadow detail. I tried to adjust the brightness and contrast sliders on the Epson but it had little to no effect on the image whatsoever. I thought that incredibly strange. I was then able to appropriately adjust the brightness and contrast through my Oppo 203. Any thoughts on why the Epson apparently has no ability to adjust the image?

I’m thinking it might have to do with the output signal being YUV rather than RGB, maybe? My source is an Nvidia shield run through the Oppo 203. Both are outputting Yuv 4:2:0 at 12-bit with color space on auto. I’ve tried adjusting the Epson both while the Oppo was doing the image processing and in full bypass mode, and the Epson still had practically no ability to adjust the image. Weird. 

Thoughts appreciated.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jv3jd said:


> Setting up my 6050ub and noticed a complete lack of shadow detail. I tried to adjust the brightness and contrast sliders on the Epson but it had little to no effect on the image whatsoever. I thought that incredibly strange. I was then able to appropriately adjust the brightness and contrast through my Oppo 203. Any thoughts on why the Epson apparently has no ability to adjust the image?
> 
> 
> 
> I’m thinking it might have to do with the output signal being YUV rather than RGB, maybe? My source is an Nvidia shield run through the Oppo 203. Both are outputting Yuv 4:2:0 at 12-bit with color space on auto. I’ve tried adjusting the Epson both while the Oppo was doing the image processing and in full bypass mode, and the Epson still had practically no ability to adjust the image. Weird.
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts appreciated.


That seems a bit strange. What did you mean that the projector has no ability to adjust the image. Brightness is a culprit of crushing shadow detail. Were you watching SDR or HDR? What what your picture mode, lamp mode, iris setting, Auto Iris on or off? If HDR what was the HDR slider setting? What are your room conditions, ambient light, dark colors or light colors in the room, ceiling and wall color, how close is the projector to your walls, ceiling and floor? What type of screen do you have? What is the gain of the screen? What is your throw distance? I don't expect answers these are just questions to consider when you are having picture quality issues other than the projector especially lack of shadow detail. The projector has hundreds of settings that can be adjusted to assist in calibrating the image. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

jv3jd said:


> Setting up my 6050ub and noticed a complete lack of shadow detail. I tried to adjust the brightness and contrast sliders on the Epson but it had little to no effect on the image whatsoever. I thought that incredibly strange. I was then able to appropriately adjust the brightness and contrast through my Oppo 203. Any thoughts on why the Epson apparently has no ability to adjust the image?
> 
> 
> 
> I’m thinking it might have to do with the output signal being YUV rather than RGB, maybe? My source is an Nvidia shield run through the Oppo 203. Both are outputting Yuv 4:2:0 at 12-bit with color space on auto. I’ve tried adjusting the Epson both while the Oppo was doing the image processing and in full bypass mode, and the Epson still had practically no ability to adjust the image. Weird.
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts appreciated.


Shadow detail has three main components: projector, screen and room conditions. Only takes one of those component out of sync to crush shadow detail. In the projector the incorrect gamma setting along with brightness will affect shadow detail. Your room conditions really dictate the type of screen materials and gain you can employ. The projector's ability to produce clear defined steps in brightness and a proper gamma curve is responsible for the detail in the images on the projector side. But even if the projector is calibrated properly, ambient light and light reflected back to onto the screen will crush those shadow details. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Anybody who watches your NFL team on Fox Sports try watching the game on the Fox Sports App instead of your normal way. You don't have to login or sign up for anything just choose Maybe Later when opening the app. You get an hour preview. You can delete the app and reinstall and keep getting additional hour of viewing. I am watching the Eagles vs Vikings game and it seems like it is 1080p or better possibly on the Fox Sports app where it normally is 720P through your cable provider or streaming subscription like YouTubeTV. Just curious to hear impressions from other enthusiasts who are watching on a projector. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Just watch the Elton John movie Rocketman, absolutely superb and if you liked Bohemian Rhapsody or in fact any recent musical you will love it. Plus the picture quality is first rate too.


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## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> It is possible that through DirecTV they are encoding HLG/HDR. HDR is really just for movies either disc or streaming. HLG is the format for broadcast. When I watched the Saturday NCAA football game and the NFL Thursday night game on my 6050 it is just SDR, same on the Fox Sports App and on the NFL Thursday Night game on Amazon Prime. I cut the cord two years ago from DirecTV. Please don't tell me I may need to go back. LOL. Can anyone confirm what the color format is for the 4K content on DirecTV? Thank you.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I just upgraded my DirecTV equipment and I can confirm I was getting 4K HDR on the NFL broadcast and it looked AMAZING!!!!! It did say in the Epson menu that it was HLG

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> I just upgraded my DirecTV equipment and I can confirm I was getting 4K HDR on the NFL broadcast and it looked AMAZING!!!!! It did say in the Epson menu that it was HLG
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Thank you for the confirmation. I really appreciate it. First HLG broadcast that I know of 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you for the confirmation. I really appreciate it. First HLG broadcast that I know of
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


No worries! Next time I watch a 4k football game, I'll take pics of the screen and Epson menu. 

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> No worries! Next time I watch a 4k football game, I'll take pics of the screen and Epson menu.
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Is it wrong that I am excited about seeing that? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> Is it wrong that I am excited about seeing that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Lol! Not at all

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


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## jv3jd

I appreciate the replies. This isn’t my first projector and I’m aware of the factors that may prevent calibration of an optimal image. This isn’t that. I’m saying moving the sliders from 0 to 100 had practically no effect on the image. It’s as if the projector’s calibration controls are being entirely bypassed. I’m wondering if there is some signal output setting or some other setting that would bypass the projector controls that I’m oblivious to. I have toggled HDR/SDR and REC 709/2020 and those functions are working normally.


----------



## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you for the confirmation. I really appreciate it. First HLG broadcast that I know of
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I forgot that I recorded the Seahawks and Rams game! Heres a few pics. Just know that my phone makes it look brighter and more saturated than it really is. Still looks great though!!









Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> I forgot that I recorded the Seahawks and Rams game! Heres a few pics. Just know that my phone makes it look brighter and more saturated than it really is. Still looks great though!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Oh yeah there is that HLG tag. I have some friends say the overall broadcast was a little dark. What did you think? Did you raise your lamp mode or change your color mode?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

jv3jd said:


> I appreciate the replies. This isn’t my first projector and I’m aware of the factors that may prevent calibration of an optimal image. This isn’t that. I’m saying moving the sliders from 0 to 100 had practically no effect on the image. It’s as if the projector’s calibration controls are being entirely bypassed. I’m wondering if there is some signal output setting or some other setting that would bypass the projector controls that I’m oblivious to. I have toggled HDR/SDR and REC 709/2020 and those functions are working normally.


Do you have EDID set to expanded? I would give Epson a call. Sounds like something really wrong with the gamma of the projector. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## eta1345

ShadowBoy said:


> Given it doesn't look like the seating would fit if it was shifted around to face the long length of the room, I would install a drop down screen on the wall beneath the acoustic panels above the tv. Then get an Ultra Short Throw projector and you're set to go. At the distance the sofa is from the screen it would be very immersive.


Sorry been gone a couple of days and missed this. What ultra short throw would you recommend?

The seating is configurable and I was gonna take the seats apart and pare it down to two.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## jv3jd

I think I have narrowed my issue. It appears to be related to the output setting of the Nvidia Shield. When it outputs in 4K it appears to lockout image controls on my Epson as well as my Marantz prepro. I believe that this typically is the case on HDR signals, where the tone-mapping metadata is fixed and can’t be altered. That said, it shouldn’t be happening on upscale 1080p content. Just setting max resolution on the Shield to 4K shouldn’t be locking the image, but that’s what’s happening. Very strange. As soon as I set the resolution back to 1080 I was able to adjust the image. I shouldn’t have to do this manually, this should be automatic. Anyway, I will keep experimenting but I hope this helps anyone in a similar situation. Further thoughts appreciated.


----------



## biglen

jv3jd said:


> I think I have narrowed my issue. It appears to be related to the output setting of the Nvidia Shield. When it outputs in 4K it appears to lockout image controls on my Epson as well as my Marantz prepro. I believe that this typically is the case on HDR signals, where the tone-mapping metadata is fixed and can’t be altered. That said, it shouldn’t be happening on upscale 1080p content. Just setting max resolution on the Shield to 4K shouldn’t be locking the image, but that’s what’s happening. Very strange. As soon as I set the resolution back to 1080 I was able to adjust the image. I shouldn’t have to do this manually, this should be automatic. Anyway, I will keep experimenting but I hope this helps anyone in a similar situation. Further thoughts appreciated.


I have a Shield with a 5050, and have my resolution set to max. I have zero issues with the combination. Let me know if you need to know any settings I'm using, to try and diagnose your issue. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I have a Shield with a 5050, and have my resolution set to max. I have zero issues with the combination. Let me know if you need to know any settings I'm using, to try and diagnose your issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Very thoughtful and kind of you to offer your assistance.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## aeneas01

looks like the something odd is going on with the green in seattle's uniforms, very neon looking and blown out, oh wait..... actually i dig their color rush unis! nice photos, thanks for sharing!





JewDaddy said:


> I forgot that I recorded the Seahawks and Rams game! Heres a few pics. Just know that my phone makes it look brighter and more saturated than it really is. Still looks great though!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


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## Biggydeen

So just got word from Epson on my newly 6050ub with a dead pixel in it. They said 1 dead pixel is not eligible for DOA procedure... They only start DOA when there are 5(!!) dead pixels.

Strange thing is that this dead pixel is only visible when switching sources. And when my PC is attached, I can only see it when browsing in chrome but not when playing movies.

Anyway, i'm contacting Epson again about this because no way i'm paying several thousand euro's for a machine with a dead pixel...


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## HTX^2steve

Biggydeen said:


> So just got word from Epson on my newly 6050ub with a dead pixel in it. They said 1 dead pixel is not eligible for DOA procedure... They only start DOA when there are 5(!!) dead pixels.
> 
> Strange thing is that this dead pixel is only visible when switching sources. And when my PC is attached, I can only see it when browsing in chrome but not when playing movies.
> 
> Anyway, i'm contacting Epson again about this because no way i'm paying several thousand euro's for a machine with a dead pixel...


Crappy policy Epson...


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## dr bill

biglen said:


> I have a Shield with a 5050, and have my resolution set to max. I have zero issues with the combination. Let me know if you need to know any settings I'm using, to try and diagnose your issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I have a Shield as well, and I am still trying to understand "best" resolution settings to use. For right now, I have resolution settings set to "Recommended". The 5050 says it is outputting 10bit 4:2:0.

What do you mean - "have my resolution set to *max*"? And what output does your 5050 report?

When I use my Sony 4k player, the 5050 is outputting 12bit 4:4:4. Can I get the Shield to do better that 10bit 4:2:0? 

Does it make a difference??? Or should I leave the Shield set to "Recommended"?

Thanks!


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## biglen

dr bill said:


> I have a Shield as well, and I am still trying to understand "best" resolution settings to use. For right now, I have resolution settings set to "Recommended". The 5050 says it is outputting 10bit 4:2:0.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean - "have my resolution set to *max*"? And what output does your 5050 report?
> 
> 
> 
> When I use my Sony 4k player, the 5050 is outputting 12bit 4:4:4. Can I get the Shield to do better that 10bit 4:2:0?
> 
> 
> 
> Does it make a difference??? Or should I leave the Shield set to "Recommended"?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Here are the settings I use, and what it shows on the info panel of my 5050.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Biggydeen said:


> So just got word from Epson on my newly 6050ub with a dead pixel in it. They said 1 dead pixel is not eligible for DOA procedure... They only start DOA when there are 5(!!) dead pixels.
> 
> Strange thing is that this dead pixel is only visible when switching sources. And when my PC is attached, I can only see it when browsing in chrome but not when playing movies.
> 
> Anyway, i'm contacting Epson again about this because no way i'm paying several thousand euro's for a machine with a dead pixel...


I’m no expert in such matters but I would have thought if you have a dead pixel it would be even seen on the startup screen or in fact any screen or source material, are you 100% certain it’s not an issue with a cable.

When you say switching source, do you mean switching by your AVR?


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## PaulDG

skylarlove1999 said:


> Silver ticket screens are a great bang for your buck. I far as price/performance ratio hard to beat them. Saying they are just as good as more expensive screens IMHO is setting up new Silver Ticket Screen owners up for disappointment if they ever buy or experience a premium screen later on along their HT Journey. Premium screens are more expensive for a reason. It is open for personal debate as to whether you should spend the money.
> 
> 
> I would say not everyone would appreciate the difference. Not all people scrutinize the details of an image enough to spend the extra money. They are happy with a good image which Silver Ticket certainly provides.
> 
> Elunevision Reference 4k screen is several steps up from Silver Ticket, as would be any screen from Seymour AV. Those screens are about 5 to 7 times the price of your standard Silver Ticket 1.1 gain white screen. People will argue on both sides why it is or isn't worth the extra money. That is a decision for each person. Most of us have budgets with which to work.
> 
> Stewart filmscreen is considered by most to be the industry standard. At roughly ten times the cost of your low budget screens, such as Silver Ticket, it simply is out of many people's budget. I own a Seymour AV Glacier White perfectly smooth screen 120 inches. Honestly could not justify the money for the Stewart Studiotek 100 or ST130, but did notice the difference in image quality. Most of us have to compromise someplace . I will say, Seymour AV will sell their screen material by itself and they are very DIY friendly . They will prepare the screen edge several different ways to help with attachment to your DIY frame. So you can certainly save yourself some money there and still get a fantastic screen.
> 
> Obviously your room conditions will play a huge role in the performance of your screen/projector combination, much more than many people realize. If you cannot control your ambient light and room reflections from the walls , ceiling and to a lesser degree your floor, there are ambient light reducing screens to minimize the impact of those room conditions.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Apologies in advance for not doing as much research here at the forums as I should. I've had some slow internet issues since moving to "the sticks" and also have a contractor coming very soon to begin construction on my home theater. I'm sorry if this belongs in the Screens forum but I thought it would be appropriate, given that this thread fits my projector.

I'm almost more hesitant to pull the trigger on a screen for my Epson 5050UB than I was on getting the projector itself. It seems there are enough contributors here in the forums who find lower budget screens acceptable to the point that it confuses me. I read somewhere that one should take the total cost of their projector and spend at least 25% of that amount on a screen. I have no idea if there is merit in that formula.

Right now I am considering a Dalite-117324V. It's a white, fixed frame, 4K supported, 110" diagonal with HD progressive 1.1 contrast, 1.1 gain, and they say, "Textureless surface intended for 1080p+/UHD/4K Projection up to 16K." I would be willing to spend the $1637.00 if I have to (while gritting my teeth) but here is the question that I pose to one and all: Am I over-spending? Are there comparable screens that would be just fine at a lower cost? I know there is a degree of subjectivity involved here.

I will be able to completely control the ambient light and the surfaces in my theater which will measure approximately 13' wide by 25' long with ceiling height of 8'.

Oh.. by the way.. I am going to have a lot of seating - about 12.5' worth - and the back row will be on a platform 15" high. I plan to mount the projector somewhere over the seating so that the front row would be 10' from the screen and am wondering how distracting that might be for seats behind or under the projector. Folks in the back row would be, from the top of their heads, roughly 18" below the projector, that is if the projector plus the mount puts the bottom of the projector about 11" down from the ceiling. 

I'd hate to get into a longer throw that would necessitate a much larger and more expensive screen. But if I could go with a cheaper, larger screen that would allow me to position the projector just behind the last row of seats, I would consider that. If I decrease the distance between the front row to the screen to 7 or 8 feet, it would make for a 20 to 22' throw if the projector is positioned just behind or over the last row of seats. Projector Central's throw distance calculator estimates a 150" diagonal screen at 20'. 

Sorry for all this rambling but any input here would be much appreciated! 

Thanks!


----------



## skylarlove1999

PaulDG said:


> Apologies in advance for not doing as much research here at the forums as I should. I've had some slow internet issues since moving to "the sticks" and also have a contractor coming very soon to begin construction on my home theater. I'm sorry if this belongs in the Screens forum but I thought it would be appropriate, given that this thread fits my projector.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm almost more hesitant to pull the trigger on a screen for my Epson 5050UB than I was on getting the projector itself. It seems there are enough contributors here in the forums who find lower budget screens acceptable to the point that it confuses me. I read somewhere that one should take the total cost of their projector and spend at least 25% of that amount on a screen. I have no idea if there is merit in that formula.
> 
> 
> 
> Right now I am considering a Dalite-117324V. It's a white, fixed frame, 4K supported, 110" diagonal with HD progressive 1.1 contrast, 1.1 gain, and they say, "Textureless surface intended for 1080p+/UHD/4K Projection up to 16K." I would be willing to spend the $1637.00 if I have to (while gritting my teeth) but here is the question that I pose to one and all: Am I over-spending? Are there comparable screens that would be just fine at a lower cost? I know there is a degree of subjectivity involved here.
> 
> 
> 
> I will be able to completely control the ambient light and the surfaces in my theater which will measure approximately 13' wide by 25' long with ceiling height of 8'.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh.. by the way.. I am going to have a lot of seating - about 12.5' worth - and the back row will be on a platform 15" high. I plan to mount the projector somewhere over the seating so that the front row would be 10' from the screen and am wondering how distracting that might be for seats behind or under the projector. Folks in the back row would be, from the top of their heads, roughly 18" below the projector, that is if the projector plus the mount puts the bottom of the projector about 11" down from the ceiling.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd hate to get into a longer throw that would necessitate a much larger and more expensive screen. But if I could go with a cheaper, larger screen that would allow me to position the projector just behind the last row of seats, I would consider that. If I decrease the distance between the front row to the screen to 7 or 8 feet, it would make for a 20 to 22' throw if the projector is positioned just behind or over the last row of seats. Projector Central's throw distance calculator estimates a 150" diagonal screen at 20'.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for all this rambling but any input here would be much appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Screen size and seating distance are a matter of personal preference. I sit at 12 ft from my 120 inch screen with the projector at 15ft. In quiet scenes I can hear the projector when in high lamp. I have to listen for it even then. Your screen you will have for ten years or longer if you choose one you really enjoy. Many enthusiasts upgrade the projector every 2-3 years. The joy of saving money is generally shortlived while the bitterness of wishing you had spent the money on quality last much longer. Some people are just not obsessed with picture quality. Those people probably don't spend close to $3K on a projector. If I were buying a screen that satisfied my value/performance ratio I would buy this. Just my $.02 . 

https://hometheaterreview.com/elunevision-reference-studio-4k-fixed-frame-screen-reviewed/

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

PaulDG said:


> Apologies in advance for not doing as much research here at the forums as I should. I've had some slow internet issues since moving to "the sticks" and also have a contractor coming very soon to begin construction on my home theater. I'm sorry if this belongs in the Screens forum but I thought it would be appropriate, given that this thread fits my projector.
> 
> I'm almost more hesitant to pull the trigger on a screen for my Epson 5050UB than I was on getting the projector itself. It seems there are enough contributors here in the forums who find lower budget screens acceptable to the point that it confuses me. I read somewhere that one should take the total cost of their projector and spend at least 25% of that amount on a screen. I have no idea if there is merit in that formula.
> 
> Right now I am considering a Dalite-117324V. It's a white, fixed frame, 4K supported, 110" diagonal with HD progressive 1.1 contrast, 1.1 gain, and they say, "Textureless surface intended for 1080p+/UHD/4K Projection up to 16K." I would be willing to spend the $1637.00 if I have to (while gritting my teeth) but here is the question that I pose to one and all: Am I over-spending? Are there comparable screens that would be just fine at a lower cost? I know there is a degree of subjectivity involved here.
> 
> I will be able to completely control the ambient light and the surfaces in my theater which will measure approximately 13' wide by 25' long with ceiling height of 8'.
> 
> Oh.. by the way.. I am going to have a lot of seating - about 12.5' worth - and the back row will be on a platform 15" high. I plan to mount the projector somewhere over the seating so that the front row would be 10' from the screen and am wondering how distracting that might be for seats behind or under the projector. Folks in the back row would be, from the top of their heads, roughly 18" below the projector, that is if the projector plus the mount puts the bottom of the projector about 11" down from the ceiling.
> 
> I'd hate to get into a longer throw that would necessitate a much larger and more expensive screen. But if I could go with a cheaper, larger screen that would allow me to position the projector just behind the last row of seats, I would consider that. If I decrease the distance between the front row to the screen to 7 or 8 feet, it would make for a 20 to 22' throw if the projector is positioned just behind or over the last row of seats. Projector Central's throw distance calculator estimates a 150" diagonal screen at 20'.
> 
> Sorry for all this rambling but any input here would be much appreciated!
> 
> Thanks!



As others chime in on particular screens let me give you a little food for thought. Whatever screen you get you will VERY likely own for the duration of however long you live in this home. It's the potentially 10 plus year investment and literally everything else around it in the chain of your theater will get replaced. My STRONG recommendation, if you believe you will be in this home for several years, is to not compromise quality for a few bucks.


----------



## fredworld

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Biggydeen*  
_So just got word from Epson on my newly 6050ub with a dead pixel in it. They said 1 dead pixel is not eligible for DOA procedure... They only start DOA when there are 5(!!) dead pixels.

Strange thing is that this dead pixel is only visible when switching sources. And when my PC is attached, I can only see it when browsing in chrome but not when playing movies.

Anyway, i'm contacting Epson again about this because no way i'm paying several thousand euro's for a machine with a dead pixel..._



Luminated67 said:


> I’m no expert in such matters but I would have thought if you have a dead pixel it would be even seen on the startup screen or in fact any screen or source material, are you 100% certain it’s not an issue with a cable.
> 
> When you say switching source, do you mean switching by your AVR?



Another non-expert opinion.... If it were me, I wouldn't be suspecting a dead pixel but possibly a screen artifact, especially if it's not present at ALL TIMES. Does it disappear if you move right up to the screen and then move your point of view a foot or two left and right? Alternatively, if it only appears when switching sources or with a PC, then I'd, also, suspect a cable issue as Laminated67.


----------



## biglen

PaulDG said:


> Apologies in advance for not doing as much research here at the forums as I should. I've had some slow internet issues since moving to "the sticks" and also have a contractor coming very soon to begin construction on my home theater. I'm sorry if this belongs in the Screens forum but I thought it would be appropriate, given that this thread fits my projector.
> 
> I'm almost more hesitant to pull the trigger on a screen for my Epson 5050UB than I was on getting the projector itself. It seems there are enough contributors here in the forums who find lower budget screens acceptable to the point that it confuses me. I read somewhere that one should take the total cost of their projector and spend at least 25% of that amount on a screen. I have no idea if there is merit in that formula.
> 
> Right now I am considering a Dalite-117324V. It's a white, fixed frame, 4K supported, 110" diagonal with HD progressive 1.1 contrast, 1.1 gain, and they say, "Textureless surface intended for 1080p+/UHD/4K Projection up to 16K." I would be willing to spend the $1637.00 if I have to (while gritting my teeth) but here is the question that I pose to one and all: Am I over-spending? Are there comparable screens that would be just fine at a lower cost? I know there is a degree of subjectivity involved here.
> 
> I will be able to completely control the ambient light and the surfaces in my theater which will measure approximately 13' wide by 25' long with ceiling height of 8'.
> 
> Oh.. by the way.. I am going to have a lot of seating - about 12.5' worth - and the back row will be on a platform 15" high. I plan to mount the projector somewhere over the seating so that the front row would be 10' from the screen and am wondering how distracting that might be for seats behind or under the projector. Folks in the back row would be, from the top of their heads, roughly 18" below the projector, that is if the projector plus the mount puts the bottom of the projector about 11" down from the ceiling.
> 
> I'd hate to get into a longer throw that would necessitate a much larger and more expensive screen. But if I could go with a cheaper, larger screen that would allow me to position the projector just behind the last row of seats, I would consider that. If I decrease the distance between the front row to the screen to 7 or 8 feet, it would make for a 20 to 22' throw if the projector is positioned just behind or over the last row of seats. Projector Central's throw distance calculator estimates a 150" diagonal screen at 20'.
> 
> Sorry for all this rambling but any input here would be much appreciated!
> 
> Thanks!


Have you considered doing a painted screen? If you have the wall for it, it has so many benefits. For one, if you paint the entire wall, you aren't limited to the size of the screen you buy, and you can make the picture as big as your wall. Secondly, with our projectors being able to store aspect ratios, when you switch between 16:9 and Scope, you won't have to worry about masking off the black bars. The black bars disappear into the painted screen, and are BARELY noticeable, unless you really stare hard and look for them. My painted screen is on an entire wall that is 11' x 8', and I only used a half gallon of the Black Flame screen paint. A gallon is only $260 shipped, and I'll put my screen up against any of the expensive ones that are available. You seem like you are a perfect candidate to do one, because you are having the room built by a contractor, and you can have him paint the screen. Here's a link to my screen painting, if you are interested.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/3086776-black-flame-diy-screen.html


----------



## MississippiMan

*One Stop...no Shop*



PaulDG said:


> Apologies in advance for not doing as much research here at the forums as I should. I've had some slow internet issues since moving to "the sticks" and also have a contractor coming very soon to begin construction on my home theater. I'm sorry if this belongs in the Screens forum but I thought it would be appropriate, given that this thread fits my projector.
> 
> I'm almost more hesitant to pull the trigger on a screen for my Epson 5050UB than I was on getting the projector itself. It seems there are enough contributors here in the forums who find lower budget screens acceptable to the point that it confuses me. I read somewhere that one should take the total cost of their projector and spend at least 25% of that amount on a screen. I have no idea if there is merit in that formula.


Paul,

You can find member's who can multi-task for you and your project's needs over on the DIY Screen Forum. Screens...Projectors...Speakers....Room Design. We place a high priority on the "DIY" mandate....one that covers just about everything.

*https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/*

.....and yes, in a dedicated Theater, if you pay $1700.00 for "ANY" 110" Matte White Screen that is going to get blasted by a 5050ub....you've paid far too much.

Prudent spending doesn't mean compromising...in any aspect of Theater design and construction. It means making the right choices as applies to your desires and budget. I get involved in Theaters ranging from $6K to $225K, and almost every one uses a Custom Made "DIY" Screen of one type or another, because Performance / Value should be incidental to everything.

Brook no mistake...a Stewart ST100 would serve you in very good stead...as would any of the recent "Zero Texture - 4K Ready" Mfg screens. But you should know that we have been DIY'ing Zero Texture - 4K Ready screens since before there was 1080p Projectors. Zero Edged WAY before any Mfg took up the idea. And making a Contrast Enhancing Screens that is ideally suited for a PJ such as the 5050ub.....really easy. 

There are more than a few who post on this Thread who know the info above is true, it's a shame that a over zealous advocate such as I must intercede. 

But that's me. I hope you stop by the *DIY Screen Forum *and while your there you might find even more helpful advice that you'd expect.





_Post Script:_
Ha Ha ! @biglen beat me to the wire.


----------



## PaulDG

skylarlove1999 said:


> Screen size and seating distance are a matter of personal preference. I sit at 12 ft from my 120 inch screen with the projector at 15ft. In quiet scenes I can hear the projector when in high lamp. I have to listen for it even then. Your screen you will have for ten years or longer if you choose one you really enjoy. Many enthusiasts upgrade the projector every 2-3 years. The joy of saving money is generally shortlived while the bitterness of wishing you had spent the money on quality last much longer. Some people are just not obsessed with picture quality. Those people probably don't spend close to $3K on a projector. If I were buying a screen that satisfied my value/performance ratio I would buy this. Just my $.02 .
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the recommendation. It looks like a great choice.

I'm not too concerned about the sound of the projector but am still wondering if positioning the 5050UB _ahead_ of seated viewers would be visually distracting, especially since it comes in white.

Am I to understand that you purchased the screen you linked to? If so, did you get the widescreen aspect ration because you have the anamorphic lens?

Thanks again for your two cents; it appears you'll be saving me much, much more than that!


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Have you considered doing a painted screen? If you have the wall for it, it has so many benefits. For one, if you paint the entire wall, you aren't limited to the size of the screen you buy, and you can make the picture as big as your wall. Secondly, with our projectors being able to store aspect ratios, when you switch between 16:9 and Scope, you won't have to worry about masking off the black bars. The black bars disappear into the painted screen, and are BARELY noticeable, unless you really stare hard and look for them. My painted screen is on an entire wall that is 11' x 8', and I only used a half gallon of the Black Flame screen paint. A gallon is only $260 shipped, and I'll put my screen up against any of the expensive ones that are available. You seem like you are a perfect candidate to do one, because you are having the room built by a contractor, and you can have him paint the screen. Here's a link to my screen painting, if you are interested.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/3086776-black-flame-diy-screen.html


Lens painted wall turned out amazing. As long as the wall is in pristine condition what's yours will be since it's going to be a brand new wall I think that could be a wonderful economical solution and I agree that it will be up against the top screens I don't think it would have anyone feeling they should have gone with the screen. Lenny's a painter by trade and did it himself so you want to make sure that you have someone who is really good with a paint spray gun as that is the best way to apply the 8 different layers to achieve the best result

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## MississippiMan

skylarlove1999 said:


> Lenny's a painter by trade and did it himself so you want to make sure that you have someone who is really good with a paint spray gun as that is the best way to *apply the 8 different layers *to achieve the best result




That is really meant to say, "8 separate Layers" It's all the same Paint.

However....I specialize in instructing total innocents in the "art" of spraying such screens...and it's actually almost a no brain'er process...a veritable, "...even a Cave Man can do it..." thing. Really. @ biglen was on of the few exceptions as far as needing any real advice.....certainly a welcome change up.

As a example....once the painting commences....the entire process of those "8 Coats" takes on average 3 hours total. Each coat is extremely light, so they "build up" quickly, one after another, each after drying for about 20 minutes.


OK...enough of DIY Screens 101. Just had to pipe back in...


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## skylarlove1999

MississippiMan said:


> That is really meant to say, "8 separate Layers" It's all the same Paint.
> 
> However....I specialize in instructing total innocents in the "art" of spraying such screens...and it's actually almost a no brain'er process...a veritable, "...even a Cave Man can do it..." thing. Really. @ biglen was on of the few exceptions as far as needing any real advice.....certainly a welcome change up.
> 
> As a example....once the painting commences....the entire process of those "8 Coats" takes on average 3 hours total. Each coat is extremely light, so they "build up" quickly, one after another, each after drying for about 20 minutes.
> 
> 
> OK...enough of DIY Screens 101. Just had to pipe back in...


Thank you for the clarification. I just meant that it's really not recommended to try and roll on the eight separate layers to achieve the one spectacular screen.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## PaulDG

Thanks much for the input everyone. Since I'll be working with a newly constructed wall and an experienced painter, I think the painted screen idea is excellent. My contractor/painter did a great job on the interior walls of my home so I am confident he can do the screen wall in the theater. He's done a few home theaters before but I don't know if he's actually painted a wall to be a screen. We're meeting on Wednesday to discuss the project.

I'll be contacting you soon, Maurice, and checking out the DYI screen threads. Thanks for reaching out!


----------



## skylarlove1999

PaulDG said:


> Thanks much for the input everyone. Since I'll be working with a newly constructed wall and an experienced painter, I think the painted screen idea is excellent. My contractor/painter did a great job on the interior walls of my home so I am confident he can do the screen wall in the theater. He's done a few home theaters before but I don't know if he's actually painted a wall to be a screen. We're meeting on Wednesday to discuss the project.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be contacting you soon, Maurice, and checking out the DYI screen threads. Thanks for reaching out![/quote @biglen and @MississippiMan are speaking the truth and this is coming from a screen guy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

PaulDG said:


> Thanks much for the input everyone. Since I'll be working with a newly constructed wall and an experienced painter, I think the painted screen idea is excellent. My contractor/painter did a great job on the interior walls of my home so I am confident he can do the screen wall in the theater. He's done a few home theaters before but I don't know if he's actually painted a wall to be a screen. We're meeting on Wednesday to discuss the project.
> 
> I'll be contacting you soon, Maurice, and checking out the DYI screen threads. Thanks for reaching out!


Post a picture when finished. btw...in my avatar picture is a ShowMaven 120 inch. Got it for a steal under $150!


----------



## PaulDG

Separately, I am still hoping to get opinions on positioning a ceiling mounted 5050UB _in front of_ seated viewers. Has anyone ever done this? In my prior home theater I had my projector (a Sharp XV-Z12000 that I purchased from AV Science, Inc. for 7,699.00 in 2005 -- Wow! Have times changed! -- and still use) behind the seating.

Would the 5050UB's 11" height profile (including the mount) on an 8' ceiling be visually distracting (especially being a white projector) for those just behind it, especially for those in the back row whose seats would be on a 15" high platform (which would put the tops of their heads at approximately 67") or 18" below the projector.


----------



## --Sclaws

PaulDG said:


> Separately, I am still hoping to get opinions on positioning a ceiling mounted 5050UB _in front of_ seated viewers. Has anyone ever done this? In my prior home theater I had my projector (a Sharp XV-Z12000 that I purchased from AV Science, Inc. for 7,699.00 in 2005 -- Wow! Have times changed! -- and still use) behind the seating.
> 
> Would the 5050UB's 11" height profile (including the mount) on an 8' ceiling be visually distracting (especially being a white projector) for those just behind it, especially for those in the back row whose seats would be on a 15" high platform (which would put the tops of their heads at approximately 67") or 18" below the projector.


I ceiling mounted my 5050 and it is basically right above my head...didn't take long at all for me to get used to it. And, I figure that if my mounting sucked and it falls and smashes my head, at least I die happy.


----------



## skylarlove1999

PaulDG said:


> Separately, I am still hoping to get opinions on positioning a ceiling mounted 5050UB _in front of_ seated viewers. Has anyone ever done this? In my prior home theater I had my projector (a Sharp XV-Z12000 that I purchased from AV Science, Inc. for 7,699.00 in 2005 -- Wow! Have times changed! -- and still use) behind the seating.
> 
> 
> 
> Would the 5050UB's 11" height profile (including the mount) on an 8' ceiling be visually distracting (especially being a white projector) for those just behind it, especially for those in the back row whose seats would be on a 15" high platform (which would put the tops of their heads at approximately 67") or 18" below the projector.


I have the same exact set up once the movie is on, I haven't had anybody tell me they were distracted and I've sat in the back row from time to time and I have never been distracted either so I don't think it is an issue

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Biggydeen

Luminated67 said:


> I’m no expert in such matters but I would have thought if you have a dead pixel it would be even seen on the startup screen or in fact any screen or source material, are you 100% certain it’s not an issue with a cable.
> 
> When you say switching source, do you mean switching by your AVR?


Well i'm no expert either with dead pixels on projectors. It's indeed quite strange.

I see the dead pixel when no source is attached (see attachment). There is a big bright blue dot on the screen. When attaching sources this dead pixel is sometimes visible but sometimes not.

I returned the unit to the shop and they tested it with a pioneer blue ray player. They could also see the blue dead pixel when switching sources but could not see it when playing movies.

But when I attached the projector to my PC I could see the dead pixel when browsing in chrome. But, for some reason I could not see it when watching a movie. I could also not see it when in the projectors menu.

So no idea whats going on here...


----------



## Luminated67

Biggydeen said:


> Well i'm no expert either with dead pixels on projectors. It's indeed quite strange.
> 
> I see the dead pixel when no source is attached (see attachment). There is a big bright blue dot on the screen. When attaching sources this dead pixel is sometimes visible but sometimes not.
> 
> I returned the unit to the shop and they tested it with a pioneer blue ray player. They could also see the blue dead pixel when switching sources but could not see it when playing movies.
> 
> But when I attached the projector to my PC I could see the dead pixel when browsing in chrome. But, for some reason I could not see it when watching a movie. I could also not see it when in the projectors menu.
> 
> So no idea whats going on here...


What is the store doing to sort you out?


----------



## Biggydeen

Luminated67 said:


> What is the store doing to sort you out?


They tested the machine (had some more issues, like a weird sound coming from the projector when playing movies). Other than that they can't do much. They contacted Epson to start the DOA but according to Epson this is within faulty limits of 5 "dead" pixels.

Already filed a complaint. Epson HQ will call be back within 5 working days. Doubt this will change anything though.

So then i'm prob stuck with this unit.

I do have another option, I can send it for a free repair. But if they cannot repair the unit I might get a second hand used one. Since this one is brand new I prefer a new one.

Not sure what to do next. Definately will be a big fail from Epson if 5(!) dead pixels is the limit. How can you watch anything with 5 dead pixels...


----------



## Luminated67

Biggydeen said:


> They tested the machine (had some more issues, like a weird sound coming from the projector when playing movies). Other than that they can't do much. They contacted Epson to start the DOA but according to Epson this is within faulty limits of 5 "dead" pixels.
> 
> Already filed a complaint. Epson HQ will call be back within 5 working days. Doubt this will change anything though.
> 
> So then i'm prob stuck with this unit.
> 
> I do have another option, I can send it for a free repair. But if they cannot repair the unit I might get a second hand used one. Since this one is brand new I prefer a new one.
> 
> Not sure what to do next. Definately will be a big fail from Epson if 5(!) dead pixels is the limit. How can you watch anything with 5 dead pixels...


How old is the machine, I would have thought if within the 30 days you could request a new replacement?


----------



## mon2479

Biggydeen said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What is the store doing to sort you out?
> 
> 
> 
> They tested the machine (had some more issues, like a weird sound coming from the projector when playing movies). Other than that they can't do much. They contacted Epson to start the DOA but according to Epson this is within faulty limits of 5 "dead" pixels.
> 
> Already filed a complaint. Epson HQ will call be back within 5 working days. Doubt this will change anything though.
> 
> So then i'm prob stuck with this unit.
> 
> I do have another option, I can send it for a free repair. But if they cannot repair the unit I might get a second hand used one. Since this one is brand new I prefer a new one.
> 
> Not sure what to do next. Definately will be a big fail from Epson if 5(!) dead pixels is the limit.
> How can you watch anything with 5 dead pixels...
Click to expand...

Would you be able to buy another PJ from some where else and just swap them out that way? Box up the PJ with the dead pixel and return that one stating you dont want it because of the dead pixel and you will look for a different brand, or just anything along those lines?


----------



## Biggydeen

Luminated67 said:


> How old is the machine, I would have thought if within the 30 days you could request a new replacement?


It's brand new. Yes, you can (already did it once and got a brand new one) but apparently you can't just return it if it falls within the return policy. In this case Epson said it can only be replaced if there are at least 5 dead pixels.



mon2479 said:


> Would you be able to buy another PJ from some where else and just swap them out that way? Box up the PJ with the dead pixel and return that one stating you dont want it because of the dead pixel and you will look for a different brand, or just anything along those lines?


Well I don't want another projector. This is the best money can buy for now. Atleast, that is the conclusion of my research. 

Also, this 6050UB is a bargain compared to what I have to pay in my own country (bought the projector abroad in Europe). It's a 700 euro price difference. With that in mind, no other projector comes close if you compare the picture quality/price.


----------



## Luminated67

I have to agree with the opinion it’s the best available in this price bracket, each time I watch a top quality recording I get blown away by how good it is, the crispness of the image is amazing in my opinion.


----------



## fredworld

Luminated67 said:


> I have to agree with the opinion it’s the best available in this price bracket, each time I watch a top quality recording I get blown away by how good it is, the crispness of the image is amazing in my opinion.


Here's an interesting video about "dead pixels": https://www.google.com/search?clien...l+look+like?#kpvalbx=__7WlXYbtAofs5gKWy4KIDw4


----------



## HTX^2steve

Biggydeen said:


> Well i'm no expert either with dead pixels on projectors. It's indeed quite strange.
> 
> I see the dead pixel when no source is attached (see attachment). There is a big bright blue dot on the screen. When attaching sources this dead pixel is sometimes visible but sometimes not.
> 
> I returned the unit to the shop and they tested it with a pioneer blue ray player. They could also see the blue dead pixel when switching sources but could not see it when playing movies.
> 
> But when I attached the projector to my PC I could see the dead pixel when browsing in chrome. But, for some reason I could not see it when watching a movie. I could also not see it when in the projectors menu.
> 
> So no idea whats going on here...


Just buy yourself a pair of Blue Blocker Glasses!  https://www.blublocker.com/ Had to... Not that many good options for you but I agree and return it for the free Epson fix and move on with another that doesn't suffer from this artifact.


----------



## marjen

So whats the early word on the power supply in the 5050? Is the 5040 issue resolved or has anyone had issues with the power supply failing? I use my projector a LOT and I don't want to deal with constantly sending units back. I really want power zoom with presets so I can do a constant height screen but not if the projector is not going to be reliable I will need to look elsewhere.


----------



## skylarlove1999

marjen said:


> So whats the early word on the power supply in the 5050? Is the 5040 issue resolved or has anyone had issues with the power supply failing? I use my projector a LOT and I don't want to deal with constantly sending units back. I really want power zoom with presets so I can do a constant height screen but not if the projector is not going to be reliable I will need to look elsewhere.


Obviously in a forum dedicated to the projector you're going to find more reports of power supply issues. There have definitely been a couple people with multiple failures of the Epson 5050 for power supply. Whether it turns out to be as widely an issue as the 5040 remains to be seen

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## marjen

HTML:







skylarlove1999 said:


> Obviously in a forum dedicated to the projector you're going to find more reports of power supply issues. There have definitely been a couple people with multiple failures of the Epson 5050 for power supply. Whether it turns out to be as widely an issue as the 5040 remains to be seen
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Well thats disappointing to hear. The 5050ub checks all the boxes except the most important one. Reliability. I have had 2 benQs over the last 6 years and neither ever had a single issue. And I tend to use my projector daily for tv, xbox and etc.


----------



## skylarlove1999

marjen said:


> HTML:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well thats disappointing to hear. The 5050ub checks all the boxes except the most important one. Reliability. I have had 2 benQs over the last 6 years and neither ever had a single issue. And I tend to use my projector daily for tv, xbox and etc.


I am sure that it is I had three different 5040 projectors that failed. I have had my Epson 6050 since May with zero issues. Ymmv

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## MississippiMan

PaulDG said:


> Separately, I am still hoping to get opinions on positioning a ceiling mounted 5050UB _in front of_ seated viewers. Has anyone ever done this? In my prior home theater I had my projector (a Sharp XV-Z12000 that I purchased from AV Science, Inc. for 7,699.00 in 2005 -- Wow! Have times changed! -- and still use) behind the seating.
> 
> Would the 5050UB's 11" height profile (including the mount) *(...is that a Chief RPA357 Dedicated?)* on an 8' ceiling be visually distracting (especially being a white projector) for those just behind it, especially for those in the back row whose seats would be on a 15" high platform (which would put the tops of their heads at approximately 67") or 18" below the projector.


 (...is that a Chief RPA357 Dedicated?)

That's close. Is there any chance to allow for a recessed Projector? A Closet behind the Rear Wall perhaps? The 5050 has enough Throw range and Lens Shift to be set upon a high Shelf or inverted and shoot through a Wall opening.

Otherwise, a 5050 setting just 18" directly above a row and running in Normal Lamp Mode will be heard by most. Low Lamp....not nearly so. If the front face of PJ can be placed just ahead of those seats, the Fan noise can be greatly reduced. The visual perspective of the top of the Screen from the rear seating won't be affected if the PJ's casing stays at least no more than 11" down from the Ceiling.

Ideally...if the screen size and throw distance required are amiable, placing the PJ as suggested with it's face just ahead of the 1st Row would be a best case scenario....usually. But perhaps not in this case as there may well be an alternative.

15" high Platform? Is that the second Row? Do you need that much height because your screen's bottom will be so low? Certainly not a 56" high 110"er? Your Room is 25' deep...so if you instead go up to 122" diagonal, you could set the 5050 all the way back almost or recessed into the rear wall....up high.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Which Chief mount comes with the 6050?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> Which Chief mount comes with the 6050?


It is labeled as chief 4500 in black. Chief 4000 in white.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## mon2479

I meant that you should buy another 5050 and return the bad 5050 in its place. Sort of swap them out.


----------



## Kelvin1000

I believe they have serial numbers that are recorded when purchased and for warranty purposes so you won’t be able to swap different projectors...


----------



## HTX^2steve

I see that Epson released two new home cinema projectors...the 3800 and the 3200. My understanding that these type projectors are for bright room displays? Looks like the contrast is a huge difference as well as the motorized features that the 5050 type have.


----------



## newtodirecttv

HTX^2steve said:


> I see that Epson released two new home cinema projectors...the 3800 and the 3200. My understanding that these type projectors are for bright room displays? Looks like the contrast is a huge difference as well as the motorized features that the 5050 type have.


Is this a recent release? Upgrade over the 5050UB?


----------



## HTX^2steve

newtodirecttv said:


> Is this a recent release? Upgrade over the 5050UB?


I'm gonna say no?...just on the specs that the contrast is way less on the two new ones. I am hoping others weigh in on this...


----------



## skylarlove1999

newtodirecttv said:


> Is this a recent release? Upgrade over the 5050UB?


Not an upgrade. These are entry level projectors with Epson 4k eshift and HDR support. Designed with more lumens for living room conditions. 

The 3800 is the replacement for the 3700.

The 3200 is the replacement for the 3100.

https://news.epson.com/news/home-cinema-3800-3200-4k-projectors

https://hdgear.highdefdigest.com/77366/handsonfirstlookepsonhomecinema38004kprouhd.html



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## newtodirecttv

Ok, so right now in the under $3000 range is the 5050 UB still the one to beat?


----------



## DavidinGA

newtodirecttv said:


> Ok, so right now in the under $3000 range is the 5050 UB still the one to beat?


Probably... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

newtodirecttv said:


> Ok, so right now in the under $3000 range is the 5050 UB still the one to beat?


I am biased towards Epson but yes. LOL . BenQ and Optoma have also been introducing some really high performing options under $3k as well. Here is a good article discussing some under $3K projectors. 

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ar...-reviews-best-home-theater-projectors-report/

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am biased towards Epson but yes. LOL . BenQ and Optoma have also been introducing some really high performing options under $3k as well. Here is a good article discussing some under $3K projectors.
> 
> https://www.projectorreviews.com/ar...-reviews-best-home-theater-projectors-report/
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


You have any pictures of your home theater setup? Looks nice from the avatar.


----------



## PaulDG

MississippiMan said:


> (...is that a Chief RPA357 Dedicated?)
> 
> That's close. Is there any chance to allow for a recessed Projector? A Closet behind the Rear Wall perhaps? The 5050 has enough Throw range and Lens Shift to be set upon a high Shelf or inverted and shoot through a Wall opening.
> 
> Otherwise, a 5050 setting just 18" directly above a row and running in Normal Lamp Mode will be heard by most. Low Lamp....not nearly so. If the front face of PJ can be placed just ahead of those seats, the Fan noise can be greatly reduced. The visual perspective of the top of the Screen from the rear seating won't be affected if the PJ's casing stays at least no more than 11" down from the Ceiling.
> 
> Ideally...if the screen size and throw distance required are amiable, placing the PJ as suggested with it's face just ahead of the 1st Row would be a best case scenario....usually. But perhaps not in this case as there may well be an alternative.
> 
> 15" high Platform? Is that the second Row? Do you need that much height because your screen's bottom will be so low? Certainly not a 56" high 110"er? Your Room is 25' deep...so if you instead go up to 122" diagonal, you could set the 5050 all the way back almost or recessed into the rear wall....up high.


The 15" high platform is the third tier and the fourth row of seating. I'll try to dig up a photo of the set up in my previous theater when I get a chance.

I'm beginning to think it's not going to be an issue with throw distance to position the projector just behind the back row, ceiling mounted with the CHF4000 which I think adds 3.3" to the 7.6" of the 5050UB.


----------



## groggrog

I know similar has been covered here before, but I need to ask about DirecTV 4k and the Epson 5050UB. I have both and have been checking out some of the 4k broadcasts. They are very washed out looking. Colors are dull and the entire image just looks dark. The 1080p channel looks way better on the 5050UB. I know DirecTV uses the HLG signal, and the project is definitely detecting that. I set the HLG brightness setting all the way down to 1, with power consumption at high, and still looks bad. Is there something wrong or is just my settings? I did buy the Spears & Munsil UHD calibration disc but haven't gone through it yet and don't know if it'll make a difference for that. All my other sources look great. Thoughts?


----------



## rupedogg24

groggrog said:


> I know similar has been covered here before, but I need to ask about DirecTV 4k and the Epson 5050UB. I have both and have been checking out some of the 4k broadcasts. They are very washed out looking. Colors are dull and the entire image just looks dark. The 1080p channel looks way better on the 5050UB. I know DirecTV uses the HLG signal, and the project is definitely detecting that. I set the HLG brightness setting all the way down to 1, with power consumption at high, and still looks bad. Is there something wrong or is just my settings? I did buy the Spears & Munsil UHD calibration disc but haven't gone through it yet and don't know if it'll make a difference for that. All my other sources look great. Thoughts?


It's not you. I have the same issue when viewing the 4k channel 104. Lack of color is the biggest issue as you said. Looks flat and dull. I've tried Bright as well as normal settings and neither seem to work. Its def on the DTV side.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rupedogg24 said:


> It's not you. I have the same issue when viewing the 4k channel 104. Lack of color is the biggest issue as you said. Looks flat and dull. I've tried Bright as well as normal settings and neither seem to work. Its def on the DTV side.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Do you have a color mode that you have set up to watch HDR content, because HLG is that broadcasting equivalent of BT.2020/HDR. 

If anyone wants to see how good Football in 4K can look install the Fox Sports App. 4k feed. Don't sign in using your TV provider since some providers like YouTubeTV get the game blacked out on the app. You get 60 minutes free. You can delete and reinstall the app and that starts another free 60 minutes. This feed looks better than the Fubotv 4k feed and better than Amazon Prime feed for Thursday Night Football. The color format is still SDR on Fox Sports App, Amazon Prime and FUBOTV, so if DirecTV is too dark for you because of the HLG/HDR broadcast maybe give the Fox Sports App a try. Tomorrow night the NFL GAME and the ALCS game 4 should both be in 4K on the Fox Sports App.


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

skylarlove1999 said:


> Do you have a color mode that you have set up to watch HDR content, because HLG is that broadcasting equivalent of BT.2020/HDR.
> 
> If anyone wants to see how good Football in 4K can look install the Fox Sports App. 4k feed. Don't sign in using your TV provider since some providers like YouTubeTV get the game blacked out on the app. You get 60 minutes free. You can delete and reinstall the app and that starts another free 60 minutes. This feed looks better than the Fubotv 4k feed and better than Amazon Prime feed for Thursday Night Football. The color format is still SDR on Fox Sports App, Amazon Prime and FUBOTV, so if DirecTV is too dark for you because of the HLG/HDR broadcast maybe give the Fox Sports App a try. Tomorrow night the NFL GAME and the ALCS game 4 should both be in 4K on the Fox Sports App.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Is it 4k on the Fox Sports App even though it's SDR? What source device are you using that looks great?


----------



## skylarlove1999

groggrog said:


> Is it 4k on the Fox Sports App even though it's SDR? What source device are you using that looks great?


Yes it is 4k in SDR , no HLG. FOX SPORTS APP through a Roku ultra player hardwired through ethernet. The only native 4K sports broadcast so far has been that LSU vs Florida game last Saturday night. The NFL THURSDAY night game is 1080P that has been upscaled to 4K and then broadcast out. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

skylarlove1999 said:


> Do you have a color mode that you have set up to watch HDR content, because HLG is that broadcasting equivalent of BT.2020/HDR.
> 
> If anyone wants to see how good Football in 4K can look install the Fox Sports App. 4k feed. Don't sign in using your TV provider since some providers like YouTubeTV get the game blacked out on the app. You get 60 minutes free. You can delete and reinstall the app and that starts another free 60 minutes. This feed looks better than the Fubotv 4k feed and better than Amazon Prime feed for Thursday Night Football. The color format is still SDR on Fox Sports App, Amazon Prime and FUBOTV, so if DirecTV is too dark for you because of the HLG/HDR broadcast maybe give the Fox Sports App a try. Tomorrow night the NFL GAME and the ALCS game 4 should both be in 4K on the Fox Sports App.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I mainly use digital cinema. It's much brighter on this projector than my older 5040 so therefore usable. 

The 4k football looks really really good. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

Didn't use the cable port cover with the 6050 as it would have forced too much of a bend in the HDMI cables. The 6050 came with four, what look to be some kind of plastic cable clips, but can't figure out what they're for or how they work. Anybody know? Thanks.


----------



## groggrog

rupedogg24 said:


> I mainly use digital cinema. It's much brighter on this projector than my older 5040 so therefore usable.
> 
> The 4k football looks really really good.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


What source device?


----------



## rupedogg24

groggrog said:


> What source device?


I watch it on DirecTV but I've also watched on the Roku Ultra, bought a month ago. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rupedogg24 said:


> I watch it on DirecTV but I've also watched on the Roku Ultra, bought a month ago.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Which version do you like better, DirecTV with HLG or Roku Ultra with SDR? Have you compared FUBOTV 4K to the Fox Sports App 4k and lastly to the NFL Thursday Night game on Amazon Prime? I have watched all three on my Roku Ultra and I am curious to hear someone else opinion .

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

skylarlove1999 said:


> Which version do you like better, DirecTV with HLG or Roku Ultra with SDR? Have you compared FUBOTV 4K to the Fox Sports App 4k and lastly to the NFL Thursday Night game on Amazon Prime? I have watched all three on my Roku Ultra and I am curious to hear someone else opinion .
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Roku. Colors pop just a bit better than DTV

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rupedogg24 said:


> Roku. Colors pop just a bit better than DTV
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I gave up my DirecTV two years ago. From my friends who still have it, they say the HLG is too dim. 

Have you compared the different apps/streaming services on the Roku that I mentioned? If so what are your thoughts?

So nice to have 4K football broadcast to feed my Epson 6050. Although going back to watching 720P or 1080p football on the projector is such a letdown. The Fox Sports App shows the NFL Thursday night broadcast in 4k and usually an NCAA game on Saturday. They also are showing the ALCS games in 4K.

I am sure you know about the ESPN Native 4K game of the week exclusively on DirecTV and Comcast for now. This week's game is supposedly Oregon vs Washington although that game is on ABC at 3:30. My guess is the 720P feed will be on ABC and ESPN will broadcast native 4K feed on another channel. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

skylarlove1999 said:


> I gave up my DirecTV two years ago. From my friends who still have it, they say the HLG is too dim.
> 
> Have you compared the different apps/streaming services on the Roku that I mentioned? If so what are your thoughts?
> 
> So nice to have 4K football broadcast to feed my Epson 6050. Although going back to watching 720P or 1080p football on the projector is such a letdown. The Fox Sports App shows the NFL Thursday night broadcast in 4k and usually an NCAA game on Saturday. They also are showing the ALCS games in 4K.
> 
> I am sure you know about the ESPN Native 4K game of the week exclusively on DirecTV and Comcast for now. This week's game is supposedly Oregon vs Washington although that game is on ABC at 3:30. My guess is the 720P feed will be on ABC and ESPN will broadcast native 4K feed on another channel.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


MLB Playoffs have also been in 4k but I have yet to watch. Will keep an eye out for the 4k college games, thanks.

Not the best rating system, but here's my list of apps and how HDR works on the Roku (for me).

BEST: The Smithsonian Channel - Not HDR but by far the best 4k I've watched on the roku.

Amazon - Out of the top apps this has the best HDR I've seen. Consistently bright with rich colors.

Vudu - Good borderlining of Great.

Netflix - Not good. I usually shut if off when watching netflix HDR content. 

YouTube - Haven't searched for HDR but their 4k is pretty good. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rupedogg24 said:


> MLB Playoffs have also been in 4k but I have yet to watch. Will keep an eye out for the 4k college games, thanks.
> 
> Not the best rating system, but here's my list of apps and how HDR works on the Roku (for me).
> 
> BEST: The Smithsonian Channel - Not HDR but by far the best 4k I've watched on the roku.
> 
> Amazon - Out of the top apps this has the best HDR I've seen. Consistently bright with rich colors.
> 
> Vudu - Good borderlining of Great.
> 
> Netflix - Not good. I usually shut if off when watching netflix HDR content.
> 
> YouTube - Haven't searched for HDR but their 4k is pretty good.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


https://news.samsung.com/us/samsung-espn-first-live-native-4k-sports-telecasts/

Channel 107.9at for the 4k feed of ESPN 4K game of the week on DirecTV 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

rupedogg24 said:


> MLB Playoffs have also been in 4k but I have yet to watch. Will keep an eye out for the 4k college games, thanks.
> 
> Not the best rating system, but here's my list of apps and how HDR works on the Roku (for me).
> 
> BEST: The Smithsonian Channel - Not HDR but by far the best 4k I've watched on the roku.
> 
> Amazon - Out of the top apps this has the best HDR I've seen. Consistently bright with rich colors.
> 
> Vudu - Good borderlining of Great.
> 
> Netflix - Not good. I usually shut if off when watching netflix HDR content.
> 
> YouTube - Haven't searched for HDR but their 4k is pretty good.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


what are you shutting off in netflix?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Viche said:


> what are you shutting off in netflix?


I think he meant he just doesn't watch any HDR content on Netflix. I have not had any issues with Netflix HDR. It is not the best but it is certainly watchable. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## flashedvirus0

*PANAMORPH DC-1 Lens*

Will the PANAMORPH DC-1 lens work with the 5050UB? I have a 2.39:1 screen.


----------



## skylarlove1999

flashedvirus0 said:


> Will the PANAMORPH DC-1 lens work with the 5050UB? I have a 2.39:1 screen.


Epson 5050 does not. Epson 6050 does support an anamorphic lens.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## flashedvirus0

skylarlove1999 said:


> Epson 5050 does not. Epson 6050 does support an anamorphic lens.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks, I should clarify. I will be running the projector through an Oppo 203 and stretch the image vertically with that. Can I position the lens in front of the projector to get a proper widescreen instead of just zooming it to size?

edit: typos


----------



## skylarlove1999

flashedvirus0 said:


> Thanks, I should clarify. I will be running the projector through an Oppo 203 and stretch the image vertically with that. Can I position the lens in from of the projector to get a proper widescreen instead of just zooming it to size?


I apologize I do not understand how you use an anamorphic lens with the projector if the projector does not have the lens resolution mode to support it. This is the 6050 manual 










Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## flashedvirus0

skylarlove1999 said:


> I apologize I do not understand how you use an anamorphic lens with the projector if the projector does not have the lens resolution mode to support it. This is the 6050 manual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I don't understand either, hence my question. I will be using an Oppo 203 as a stand-in to perform the stretching vertically that the 6050 is capable of, but feeding the 5050UB through the 203. I'm just wondering if this is possible before investing in an anamorphic lens.

So I guess my question is, can an Oppo 203 do with a 5050UB what a 6050UB can do natively?


----------



## skylarlove1999

flashedvirus0 said:


> I don't understand either, hence my question. I will be using an Oppo 203 as a stand-in to perform the stretching vertically that the 6050 is capable of, but feeding the 5050UB through the 203. I'm just wondering if this is possible before investing in an anamorphic lens.
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess my question is, can an Oppo 203 do with a 5050UB what a 6050UB can do natively?


I would ask the people who are experts on anamorphic lens applications. So I would ask the company from whom you are considering buying the lens. They should hopefully be familiar with the Oppo 203 and the lens .

I don't know of anyone on this forum who is running an anamorphic lens with the 5050. Could be it doesn't work. Could be most people who can afford an anamorphic lens are either buying the 6050 or an even more expensive projector designed to be used with an anamorphic lens. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Any answer I give would just be an educated guess. My inclination is no you cannot.

@Josh Z sorry to bother you but I know you are extremely knowledgeable. Do you know if you could use the Oppo 203 to facilitate using an anamorphic lens with the Epson 5050? 

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## fredworld

Quote:
Originally Posted by *flashedvirus0*  
_I don't understand either, hence my question. I will be using an Oppo 203 as a stand-in to perform the stretching vertically that the 6050 is capable of, but feeding the 5050UB through the 203. I'm just wondering if this is possible before investing in an anamorphic lens.



So I guess my question is, can an Oppo 203 do with a 5050UB what a 6050UB can do natively?_



skylarlove1999 said:


> I would ask the people who are experts on anamorphic lens applications. So I would ask the company from whom you are considering buying the lens. They should hopefully be familiar with the Oppo 203 and the lens .
> 
> I don't know of anyone on this forum who is running an anamorphic lens with the 5050. Could be it doesn't work. Could be most people who can afford an anamorphic lens are either buying the 6050 or an even more expensive projector designed to be used with an anamorphic lens. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Any answer I give would just be an educated guess. My inclination is no you cannot.
> 
> @*Josh Z* sorry to bother you but I know you are extremely knowledgeable. Do you know if you could use the Oppo 203 to facilitate using an anamorphic lens with the Epson 5050?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



IMHO, an anamorphic lens seems like an unnecessary expense and adds a level of complexity that is negated by the lens design. See the AVS Forum review that states, in part, _"... if you have a 2.40:1 aspect ratio screen. You can enjoy many widescreen Hollywood movies zoomed in, so that the image fills the screen; no anamorphic lens required." _


----------



## flashedvirus0

fredworld said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flashedvirus0*
> _I don't understand either, hence my question. I will be using an Oppo 203 as a stand-in to perform the stretching vertically that the 6050 is capable of, but feeding the 5050UB through the 203. I'm just wondering if this is possible before investing in an anamorphic lens.
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess my question is, can an Oppo 203 do with a 5050UB what a 6050UB can do natively?_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMHO, an anamorphic lens seems like an unnecessary expense and adds a level of complexity that is negated by the lens design. See the AVS Forum review that states, in part, _"... if you have a 2.40:1 aspect ratio screen. You can enjoy many widescreen Hollywood movies zoomed in, so that the image fills the screen; no anamorphic lens required." _


Thanks for the reply. On a 130" wide (141" diagonal) 2.39:1 screen like I have, an anamorphic lens would provide a brightness boost to 57 fL up from 47 fL. 47 fL is plenty bright, so I'll likely just stick with it zoomed in. Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

fredworld said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *flashedvirus0*
> _I don't understand either, hence my question. I will be using an Oppo 203 as a stand-in to perform the stretching vertically that the 6050 is capable of, but feeding the 5050UB through the 203. I'm just wondering if this is possible before investing in an anamorphic lens.
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess my question is, can an Oppo 203 do with a 5050UB what a 6050UB can do natively?_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMHO, an anamorphic lens seems like an unnecessary expense and adds a level of complexity that is negated by the lens design. See the AVS Forum review that states, in part, _"... if you have a 2.40:1 aspect ratio screen. You can enjoy many widescreen Hollywood movies zoomed in, so that the image fills the screen; no anamorphic lens required." _


This is a good article that details the different aspect ratios and the reasons why an an anamorphic lens still has added benefits that zooming without one simply does not.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Choosing-Screen-Aspect-Ratio.htm

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Josh Z

skylarlove1999 said:


> @*Josh Z* sorry to bother you but I know you are extremely knowledgeable. Do you know if you could use the Oppo 203 to facilitate using an anamorphic lens with the Epson 5050?


Sorry, I have not been following this thread. If you have or can get one, an OPPO 203 has full aspect ratio control for 21:9 Constant Image Height. It will stretch any image you play on it vertically, so that the image will restore proper picture geometry when projected through an anamorphic lens. The OPPO 203 also has an HDMI input so that you can feed other video sources through its processor. For example: Streaming device -> OPPO -> Projector. The OPPO will stretch content from that source as well.

If the projector does not have CIH scaling built-in, the OPPO player is a good solution. Of course, they're out of production and expensive to obtain today.

Sadly, other solutions such as a Lumagen Radiance Pro would be even more expensive. 

I suppose there might be some HTPC options as well, but I'm not familiar with those.


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## skylarlove1999

Josh Z said:


> Sorry, I have not been following this thread. If you have or can get one, an OPPO 203 has full aspect ratio control for 21:9 Constant Image Height. It will stretch any image you play on it vertically, so that the image will restore proper picture geometry when projected through an anamorphic lens. The OPPO 203 also has an HDMI input so that you can feed other video sources through its processor. For example: Streaming device -> OPPO -> Projector. The OPPO will stretch content from that source as well.
> 
> If the projector does not have CIH scaling built-in, the OPPO player is a good solution. Of course, they're out of production and expensive to obtain today.
> 
> Sadly, other solutions such as a Lumagen Radiance Pro would be even more expensive.
> 
> I suppose there might be some HTPC options as well, but I'm not familiar with those.[/quote @Josh Z thank you very much for taking the time to reply and share your knowledge. I knew I chose the right man to reply. Thanks again for your almost infinite knowledge and willingness to share. It is greatly appreciated.
> 
> @flashedvirus0 your answer is listed above . It seems as if you could use the Oppo 203 with the Epson 5050ub to support using an anamorphic lens.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

So I finally made my first jump into the 4K world and bought the 5050 tonight. So far, I've not seen any appreciable resolution improvements that I fond meaningful. I have a 150" screen I watch from about 16 feet away. My initial comparison with my old projector was running a Roku to the 5050 and maintaining the Apple TV to the Epson 3700. I then switched the Apple TV to the 5050 and found that I just generally enjoy the Apple TV image more. So first question, is Apple TV doing anything different that Roku isn't? Apple TV just seems a little cleaner. And yes, I used the same HDMI to the 5050 from each source.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> So I finally made my first jump into the 4K world and bought the 5050 tonight. So far, I've not seen any appreciable resolution improvements that I fond meaningful. I have a 150" screen I watch from about 16 feet away. My initial comparison with my old projector was running a Roku to the 5050 and maintaining the Apple TV to the Epson 3700. I then switched the Apple TV to the 5050 and found that I just generally enjoy the Apple TV image more. So first question, is Apple TV doing anything different that Roku isn't? Apple TV just seems a little cleaner. And yes, I used the same HDMI to the 5050 from each source.


Honestly at 16 feet away from your screen I wouldn't expect most people to notice a huge difference from 1080P and real 4K let alone eshift 4k. For 4K displays you should be sitting around 1 times the diagonal width of your display so that would be about 12ft for you screen size. Were you watching 4k content or upscaled 1080P? If you sit at 12 ft and still don't notice any difference in picture quality you may want to consider taking the 5050 back. Maybe try a 4k bluray player with HDR before you give up on the 4K experience. But you definitely need to sit closer.

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----------



## DavidinGA

skylarlove1999 said:


> Honestly at 16 feet away from your screen I wouldn't expect most people to notice a huge difference from 1080P and real 4K let alone eshift 4k. For 4K displays you should be sitting around 1 times the diagonal width of your display so that would be about 12ft for you screen size. Were you watching 4k content or upscaled 1080P? If you sit at 12 ft and still don't notice any difference in picture quality you may want to consider taking the 5050 back. Maybe try a 4k bluray player with HDR before you give up on the 4K experience. But you definitely need to sit closer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Most people with a 150" display don't sit 12ft away...and you should easily be able to tell the difference between 1080 and 4k even at 16ft.

People with 120" usually are around 12ft away from the screen Fwiw. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidinGA said:


> Most people with a 150" display don't sit 12ft away...and you should easily be able to tell the difference between 1080 and 4k even at 16ft.
> 
> People with 120" usually are around 12ft away from the screen Fwiw.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I was talking about the general population. LOL 
Not videophiles like yourself. Of course you can see the difference probably at 20 ft from your monstrous screen. LOL. But seriously there are guidelines for viewing 4k to really appreciate the difference. YMMV. Not you. I know you can see the difference. 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-k8WfWTEJS5v/learn/learningcenter/home/TV_placement.html

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Josh Z

Josh Z said:


> Sorry, I have not been following this thread. If you have or can get one, an OPPO 203 has full aspect ratio control for 21:9 Constant Image Height. It will stretch any image you play on it vertically, so that the image will restore proper picture geometry when projected through an anamorphic lens. The OPPO 203 also has an HDMI input so that you can feed other video sources through its processor. For example: Streaming device -> OPPO -> Projector. The OPPO will stretch content from that source as well.
> 
> If the projector does not have CIH scaling built-in, the OPPO player is a good solution. Of course, they're out of production and expensive to obtain today.



One quick note on this. The 21:9 scaling features in the OPPO player are designed for use with a 1.33x anamorphic lens. Panamorph's current Paladin DCR lens has a different stretch factor since it's intended to be used on a projector with a 17:9 panel, such as Sony and JVC native 4k models.


Because the Epson 5050 is a pixel-shifting model with a 1080p 16:9 panel, you'd want a 1.33x lens anyway, such as the regular Paladin (no DCR).


----------



## skylarlove1999

Josh Z said:


> One quick note on this. The 21:9 scaling features in the OPPO player are designed for use with a 1.33x anamorphic lens. Panamorph's current Paladin DCR lens has a different stretch factor since it's intended to be used on a projector with a 17:9 panel, such as Sony and JVC native 4k models.
> 
> 
> Because the Epson 5050 is a pixel-shifting model with a 1080p 16:9 panel, you'd want a 1.33x lens anyway, such as the regular Paladin (no DCR).


Thank you for taking the time to follow up. It is much appreciated, even if the person who needed the information is MIA.

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## skylarlove1999

Fox Sports App on Roku Ultra . Iowa State vs Texas Tech in 4K glory from my Epson 6050 on my 120 inch Seymour Glacier white screen. Looks more amazing in person. Don't sign up. It is free. Just click through. You get 60 minutes free and then you delete the app and reinstall the app and get another 60 minutes. As many times as you want. ALCS later on in 4K.









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----------



## Hawkmarket

DavidinGA said:


> Most people with a 150" display don't sit 12ft away...and you should easily be able to tell the difference between 1080 and 4k even at 16ft.
> 
> People with 120" usually are around 12ft away from the screen Fwiw.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I'm getting REALLY close to the same detail watching End Game streaming on the Apple TV app to my Epson 3700 as I am watching the UHD disc off of a X Box One X to the 5050. The difference is I can do more with the color, black levels are lower and I am truly enjoying a very quiet fan comparatively. As has been discussed before the color expansion adds way more to me than the detail enhancement, what little my eyes are detecting. A detail side by side with my face smooshed the screen probably would yield better results to the 5050 but that's not how I watch movies. The added color, much better contrast and lowered fan noise are the upgrades.


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## MidnightWatcher

Anyone know if Epson is developing Auto Tone Mapping for a future firmware update? This seems to be the future for projectors and HDR.


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## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> I'm getting REALLY close to the same detail watching End Game streaming on the Apple TV app to my Epson 3700 as I am watching the UHD disc off of a X Box One X to the 5050. The difference is I can do more with the color, black levels are lower and I am truly enjoying a very quiet fan comparatively. As has been discussed before the color expansion adds way more to me than the detail enhancement, what little my eyes are detecting. A detail side by side with my face smooshed the screen probably would yield better results to the 5050 but that's not how I watch movies. The added color, much better contrast and lowered fan noise are the upgrades.


Is endgame a 4k disc?

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## pete ramberg

skylarlove1999 said:


> Is endgame a 4k disc?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Avengers:End Game is shot in 6.5K but the digital master is 2K.

Therein lies the problem: we fail to look at the source and spend too much time on the projector displaying the source!!

2K masters, while upscaled on a UHD disc to 4K, are still 2K. With the pixel shifting only displaying 4 MP, there is little, if any, increase in RESOLUTION seen by our eyeballs. 2K upscaled to 8 MP, but displayed at 4 MP is going to look pretty much like 2K.

I think we need to be aware of the source resolution. Obviously, there's a whole lot more going on than just resolution too..


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> I was talking about the general population. LOL
> Not videophiles like yourself. Of course you can see the difference probably at 20 ft from your monstrous screen. LOL. But seriously there are guidelines for viewing 4k to really appreciate the difference. YMMV. Not you. I know you can see the difference.
> 
> https://www.crutchfield.com/S-k8WfWTEJS5v/learn/learningcenter/home/TV_placement.html
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Handy chart...


----------



## Luminated67

Hawkmarket said:


> So I finally made my first jump into the 4K world and bought the 5050 tonight. So far, I've not seen any appreciable resolution improvements that I fond meaningful. I have a 150" screen I watch from about 16 feet away. My initial comparison with my old projector was running a Roku to the 5050 and maintaining the Apple TV to the Epson 3700. I then switched the Apple TV to the 5050 and found that I just generally enjoy the Apple TV image more. So first question, is Apple TV doing anything different that Roku isn't? Apple TV just seems a little cleaner. And yes, I used the same HDMI to the 5050 from each source.


I’m curious if you are using any of the image enhancement presets on the 5050, my first ever projector was a 6100 and not sure whether that’s better or worse than the 3700 but the difference between it and my 9400(6050) is remarkable.


----------



## jklow888

MidnightWatcher said:


> Anyone know if Epson is developing Auto Tone Mapping for a future firmware update? This seems to be the future for projectors and HDR.


I hope this is possible as per the JVCs which also started with static tone mapping. You’d think the Epsons have the relevant processing power to do this so hopefully someone with a product engineering contact could find out!


----------



## Kelvin1000

Random Sunday morning pic in the living room with some daylight


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## skylarlove1999

Kelvin1000 said:


> Random Sunday morning pic in the living room with some daylight


Awesome picture what is the source

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Kelvin1000

skylarlove1999 said:


> Awesome picture what is the source
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Apple TV 4K (set to SDR)

Netflix - Our Planet

Living room with white walls and ceiling and some ambient light so by no means the ideal setup...

Pic taken with an iPhone XS Plus and not edited in any way.

I should retake at night with HDR on to really do the projector justice...


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kelvin1000 said:


> Apple TV 4K (set to SDR)
> 
> Netflix - Our Planet
> 
> Living room with white walls and ceiling and some ambient light so by no means the ideal setup...
> 
> Pic taken with an iPhone XS Plus and not edited in any way.
> 
> I should retake at night with HDR on to really do the projector justice...


Thank you for replying I would love to see the difference in HDR and at night. Thanks again for giving all the details. Much appreciated.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Hawkmarket

Luminated67 said:


> I’m curious if you are using any of the image enhancement presets on the 5050, my first ever projector was a 6100 and not sure whether that’s better or worse than the 3700 but the difference between it and my 9400(6050) is remarkable.



Well let's start there. Today I've started with looking at the 1080p bluray's to check out the upscaling and just noticed under "Image Enhancement" that "4K enhancement," Noise Reeducation" and MPEG Noise Reduction" is greyed out. My supply to the projector is that I'm running an HDMI DIRECTLY from the Xbox One X to the projector. No AVR in the middle. I'm currently just running an optical out to the AVR while I experiment with this thing. These things are all greyed out whether I'm watching a bluray disc or UHD. Doesn't matter. I went in and played with the Xbox video output settings and lowered it from 4K to 1080p just to see if it was doing the upscaling and it didn't matter either way. "Frame Interpolation" on the previous screen is greyed out as well. Anyone know what's going on here?


----------



## biglen

Hawkmarket said:


> Well let's start there. Today I've started with looking at the 1080p bluray's to check out the upscaling and just noticed under "Image Enhancement" that "4K enhancement," Noise Reeducation" and MPEG Noise Reduction" is greyed out. My supply to the projector is that I'm running an HDMI DIRECTLY from the Xbox One X to the projector. No AVR in the middle. I'm currently just running an optical out to the AVR while I experiment with this thing. These things are all greyed out whether I'm watching a bluray disc or UHD. Doesn't matter. I went in and played with the Xbox video output settings and lowered it from 4K to 1080p just to see if it was doing the upscaling and it didn't matter either way. "Frame Interpolation" on the previous screen is greyed out as well. Anyone know what's going on here?


Make sure you set Image Processing to Fine. Also, when you press the info button on the Epson, does it say it's 1080p?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> Well let's start there. Today I've started with looking at the 1080p bluray's to check out the upscaling and just noticed under "Image Enhancement" that "4K enhancement," Noise Reeducation" and MPEG Noise Reduction" is greyed out. My supply to the projector is that I'm running an HDMI DIRECTLY from the Xbox One X to the projector. No AVR in the middle. I'm currently just running an optical out to the AVR while I experiment with this thing. These things are all greyed out whether I'm watching a bluray disc or UHD. Doesn't matter. I went in and played with the Xbox video output settings and lowered it from 4K to 1080p just to see if it was doing the upscaling and it didn't matter either way. "Frame Interpolation" on the previous screen is greyed out as well. Anyone know what's going on here?


If all those items are greyed out it means that whatever you are sending to the projector is already some type of 4K signal either the Blu-ray players doing upscaling or whatever other source you're using is doing upscaling. If you actually send 1080p to the projector than 4K enhancement would not be greyed out.

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## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> If all those items are greyed out it means that whatever you are sending to the projector is already some type of 4K signal either the Blu-ray players doing upscaling or whatever other source you're using is doing upscaling. If you actually send 1080p to the projector than 4K enhancement would not be greyed out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Under info it's showing "3840 x 2160." I didn't realize that would knock out Noise and MPEG Noise as well. I guess the Xbox ONE X is doing it's own upscaling knocking the all of that out including 4K Enhancement.


----------



## DunMunro

I'm not sure if this has been posted previously:

http://cine4home.de/benq-w5700-vs-epson-tw9400-das-grosse-duell-der-4k-hdr-wohnzimmerbeamer/

It's a detailed comparison review of the W5700 and TW9400. Use google translate for the language of choice.


----------



## Luminated67

Hawkmarket said:


> Under info it's showing "3840 x 2160." I didn't realize that would knock out Noise and MPEG Noise as well. I guess the Xbox ONE X is doing it's own upscaling knocking the all of that out including 4K Enhancement.


I can’t speak for what others think/feel but in my opinion the Epson does a better job at upscaling than my Panasonic Blu-Ray player, whether the same is true for an XBox I can’t say.

One thing I can assure you is that when it’s feed with a great quality source material the Epson is incredible.

4K
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7iqey1az7aedzxe/Photo 04-05-2019, 17 20 50.jpg?dl=0
4K
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uir61kb26fdke3y/Photo 17-02-2019, 17 24 04.jpg?dl=0
1080P
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tyerpld11o8i7ga/Photo 22-04-2019, 20 41 12.jpg?dl=0
1080P
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3x6127jkpbvxz1/Photo 23-04-2019, 21 59 24.jpg?dl=0


----------



## DavidinGA

MidnightWatcher said:


> Anyone know if Epson is developing Auto Tone Mapping for a future firmware update? This seems to be the future for projectors and HDR.


I kind of doubt it, and if they do it'll be mediocre dtm at best. Good dtm takes more processing power than these pj's come with.

If you really want great HDR you need a dedicated tone mapping solution (htpc w/madVR, ENVY, or Lumagen). 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

DavidinGA said:


> I kind of doubt it, and if they do it'll be mediocre dtm at best. Good dtm takes more processing power than these pj's come with.
> 
> If you really want great HDR you need a dedicated tone mapping solution (htpc w/madVR, ENVY, or Lumagen).
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I agree with your comments about the processing power of the Epson projectors. I agreed with needing a separate processor for really good HDR until I saw my friend's JVC RS2000 with the new DTM firmware update. It is a revelation. Not saying it is better than the MADVR OR ENVY or Lumagen because it is not, but for most people they would be blown away. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

skylarlove1999 said:


> DavidinGA said:
> 
> 
> 
> I kind of doubt it, and if they do it'll be mediocre dtm at best. Good dtm takes more processing power than these pj's come with.
> 
> If you really want great HDR you need a dedicated tone mapping solution (htpc w/madVR, ENVY, or Lumagen).
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with your comments about the processing power of the Epson projectors. I agreed with needing a separate processor for really good HDR until I saw my friend's JVC RS2000 with the new DTM firmware update. It is a revelation. Not saying it is better than the MADVR OR ENVY or Lumagen because it is not, but for most people they would be blown away.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

In a earlier breakdown it was reported that the new JVCs had a powerful programable chip on board. I know the 5050 had 3 new processors onboard coming from the 5040. Not sure if one of them is strong enought to do dtm or not.

I will say I have read way to many impressions and reviews lately trying to decide on my upgrade for the next 5 yrs. The only thing keeping me from getting the 5050 is it is 100% evident that the HDR tone mapping dramatically raises the black floor. Seemingly Benq 5550 and 3550 have some sort to dtm that makes their pathetic 1000:1 contrast ratio look better that the 5050 is some scenes due to the raised black floor. 

Would love a rs2000 but the wife wont sign off on it. She said it can get a b stock 790 or the Epson 5050. Iam stuck hoping epson updates the 5050 tone mapping. Would go 790 but iam afraid I will hate fighting hdr tone mapping.

Just keep riding this epson 4000....


----------



## DavidinGA

gunlife said:


> In a earlier breakdown it was reported that the new JVCs had a powerful programable chip on board. I know the 5050 had 3 new processors onboard coming from the 5040. Not sure if one of them is strong enought to do dtm or not.
> 
> I will say I have read way to many impressions and reviews lately trying to decide on my upgrade for the next 5 yrs. The only thing keeping me from getting the 5050 is it is 100% evident that the HDR tone mapping dramatically raises the black floor. Seemingly Benq 5550 and 3550 have some sort to dtm that makes their pathetic 1000:1 contrast ratio look better that the 5050 is some scenes due to the raised black floor.
> 
> Would love a rs2000 but the wife wont sign off on it. She said it can get a b stock 790 or the Epson 5050. Iam stuck hoping epson updates the 5050 tone mapping. Would go 790 but iam afraid I will hate fighting hdr tone mapping.
> 
> Just keep riding this epson 4000....


That's interesting about the on board chips. 


Have you considered an htpc w/madVR?

I'm running an Epson 5040 with MadVR and the hdr is amazing! Basically any pj you get right now can be improved upon with MadVR (even the jvc's with the dtm firmware update); it's that good.

I know a lot of people don't want to dive into it, but w/o madVR (or equivalent) your missing out when it comes to hdr. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

DavidinGA said:


> That's interesting about the on board chips.
> 
> 
> Have you considered an htpc w/madVR?
> 
> I'm running an Epson 5040 with MadVR and the hdr is amazing! Basically any pj you get right now can be improved upon with MadVR (even the jvc's with the dtm firmware update); it's that good.
> 
> I know a lot of people don't want to dive into it, but w/o madVR (or equivalent) your missing out when it comes to hdr.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I do have a gaming pc with a 1080in it. So I have considered it. Seems like alot lf work so I just never took the jump. But I do suppose a 790 with madvr would rock the house.

Probably just pick up a 5050 next week just to get something!!!


----------



## MidnightWatcher

gunlife said:


> The only thing keeping me from getting the 5050 is it is 100% evident that the HDR tone mapping dramatically raises the black floor. Seemingly Benq 5550 and 3550 have some sort to dtm that makes their pathetic 1000:1 contrast ratio look better that the 5050 is some scenes due to the raised black floor.


Interesting. I'm really curious to read reviews of the JVC LX-NZ3 when released next month to see how it compares to a 5050/6050.


----------



## gunlife

MidnightWatcher said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing keeping me from getting the 5050 is it is 100% evident that the HDR tone mapping dramatically raises the black floor. Seemingly Benq 5550 and 3550 have some sort to dtm that makes their pathetic 1000:1 contrast ratio look better that the 5050 is some scenes due to the raised black floor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. I'm really curious to read reviews of the JVC LX-NZ3 when released next month to see how it compares to a 5050/6050.
Click to expand...

Iam keeping my eye on it but it seems like its made for a living room type setup. Be interesting either way more options are always better.


----------



## Yves Claeys

DavidinGA said:


> That's interesting about the on board chips.
> 
> 
> Have you considered an htpc w/madVR?
> 
> I'm running an Epson 5040 with MadVR and the hdr is amazing! Basically any pj you get right now can be improved upon with MadVR (even the jvc's with the dtm firmware update); it's that good.
> 
> I know a lot of people don't want to dive into it, but w/o madVR (or equivalent) your missing out when it comes to hdr.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



What are your MadVR HDR specific settings?


----------



## DavidinGA

Yves Claeys said:


> What are your MadVR HDR specific settings?


I'd have to go look, but I'm currently running build 86 (they are up over 100 now).

Follow this thread:

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you for replying I would love to see the difference in HDR and at night. Thanks again for giving all the details. Much appreciated.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I took some more pics last night.

SDR:









HDR:









It should also be noted that this projector has not been calibrated in any way and I am just using “Bright Cinema” out of the box.


----------



## MississippiMan

skylarlove1999 said:


> It is labeled as chief 4500 in black. Chief 4000 in white.





The Mount and Custom PJ Plate itself is excellent....the small "X" Ceiling Plate ain't a "Plate" and is NOT advised for use if one wants to have all points of structural support firmly screwed into Framing Lumber.


Use a Round *Peerless ACC570* instead. The wider Base offers much more lateral stability. (...the actual Plate has 4 Holes...) It's only $18-20.00 additional expense.


----------



## skylarlove1999

MississippiMan said:


> The Mount and Custom PJ Plate itself is excellent....the small "X" Ceiling Plate ain't a "Plate" and is NOT advised for use if one wants to have all points of structural support firmly screwed into Framing Lumber.
> 
> 
> Use a Round *Peerless ACC570* instead. The wider Base offers much more lateral stability. (...the actual Plate has 4 Holes...) It's only $18-20.00 additional expense.


I agree 100% regarding the ceiling plate. I did not use the ceiling plate . 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Kelvin1000 said:


> I took some more pics last night.
> 
> SDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should also be noted that this projector has not been calibrated in any way and I am just using “Bright Cinema” out of the box.


Bright Cinema wouldn't be right with HDR unless it was calibrated, much better to use either Cinema or Digital Cinema if using out of the box settings with HDR as both engage the filter.


----------



## gunlife

Kelvin1000 said:


> I took some more pics last night.
> 
> SDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDR:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should also be noted that this projector has not been calibrated in any way and I am just using “Bright Cinema” out of the box.


Perfect example of the raised black floor in HDR. I know you could be in Digital Cinema and it would help improve the black levels but it still raises the blacks. People love the highlights I suppose! 

BTW I am not trying to be negative or attempting to put anyone's theater or personal preference down. I have just noticed that my Wife and I enjoy a lot of movies/shows with a lot of low ADL scenes so I prefer to have a low black floor at this point.


----------



## HTX^2steve

gunlife said:


> Perfect example of the raised black floor in HDR. I know you could be in Digital Cinema and it would help improve the black levels but it still raises the blacks. People love the highlights I suppose!
> 
> BTW I am not trying to be negative or attempting to put anyone's theater or personal preference down. I have just noticed that my Wife and I enjoy a lot of movies/shows with a lot of low ADL scenes so I prefer to have a low black floor at this point.


So the HDR setting is displaying correctly? At least to my eyes the HDR is more accurately depicting space.


----------



## Luminated67

HTX^2steve said:


> So the HDR setting is displaying correctly? At least to my eyes the HDR is more accurately depicting space.


Try Digital Cinema and set your HDR level some where between 1 and 6, also put lamp mode to Medium.


----------



## Biggydeen

So just got word from Epson about the dead pixel. And the official response from headquarters is that the customer should accept 1 dead pixel and this cannot be repaired in any way....

Does anyone know if Epson can just do this? There is no mention about dead pixels in their warranty statement.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Biggydeen said:


> So just got word from Epson about the dead pixel. And the official response from headquarters is that the customer should accept 1 dead pixel and this cannot be repaired in any way....
> 
> Does anyone know if Epson can just do this? There is no mention about dead pixels in their warranty statement.


wow...again crappy policy.


----------



## gunlife

HTX^2steve said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect example of the raised black floor in HDR. I know you could be in Digital Cinema and it would help improve the black levels but it still raises the blacks. People love the highlights I suppose!
> 
> BTW I am not trying to be negative or attempting to put anyone's theater or personal preference down. I have just noticed that my Wife and I enjoy a lot of movies/shows with a lot of low ADL scenes so I prefer to have a low black floor at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> So the HDR setting is displaying correctly? At least to my eyes the HDR is more accurately depicting space.
Click to expand...

Iam not saying its "wrong" if you enjoy the picture thats fantastic! Don't let someone on the internet sway you!

All iam saying is that Epsons tone maping of hdr significantly raises the black floor to keep the image bright. It just really destroys alot of the reason people pay up for the "Ultra Black" tech.


----------



## jeahrens

gunlife said:


> I do have a gaming pc with a 1080in it. So I have considered it. Seems like alot lf work so I just never took the jump. But I do suppose a 790 with madvr would rock the house.
> 
> Probably just pick up a 5050 next week just to get something!!!


B-stock NX5 slots between the 5050 and 6050 price wise. And runs the new DTM firmware just fine. I'd certainly put it on your list.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> B-stock NX5 slots between the 5050 and 6050 price wise. And runs the new DTM firmware just fine. I'd certainly put it on your list.


100% agree with this comment. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

gunlife said:


> Iam not saying its "wrong" if you enjoy the picture thats fantastic! Don't let someone on the internet sway you!
> 
> All iam saying is that Epsons tone maping of hdr significantly raises the black floor to keep the image bright. It just really destroys alot of the reason people pay up for the "Ultra Black" tech.


This is a good reason to not rely on tm inside the projector, if you're after the best image...

MadVR = Winning for DTM vs other methods


----------



## gunlife

jeahrens said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a gaming pc with a 1080in it. So I have considered it. Seems like alot lf work so I just never took the jump. But I do suppose a 790 with madvr would rock the house.
> 
> Probably just pick up a 5050 next week just to get something!!!
> 
> 
> 
> B-stock NX5 slots between the 5050 and 6050 price wise. And runs the new DTM firmware just fine. I'd certainly put it on your list.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Will do.


----------



## gunlife

DavidinGA said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iam not saying its "wrong" if you enjoy the picture thats fantastic! Don't let someone on the internet sway you!
> 
> All iam saying is that Epsons tone maping of hdr significantly raises the black floor to keep the image bright. It just really destroys alot of the reason people pay up for the "Ultra Black" tech.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a good reason to not rely on tm inside the projector, if you're after the best image...
> 
> MadVR = Winning for DTM vs other methods
Click to expand...

I have no problem with trying madvr. But I use my projector about 70% of the time streaming hdr shows from netflix, amazon prime, and hulu. Another 10% gaming. Madvr is useless for these situations. Just looks like Benq and JVC have the best tone mapping out for projectors right now. Benq just has a low contrast starting point or it might be as good as JVCs dtm.


----------



## jeahrens

gunlife said:


> I have no problem with trying madvr. But I use my projector about 70% of the time streaming hdr shows from netflix, amazon prime, and hulu. Another 10% gaming. Madvr is useless for these situations. Just looks like Benq and JVC have the best tone mapping out for projectors right now. Benq just has a low contrast starting point or it might be as good as JVCs dtm.


Please do yourself a favor and steer clear of the 4K DLPs. Saying they have low contrast is being kind. The Epson's put up a much better picture.


----------



## gunlife

jeahrens said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have no problem with trying madvr. But I use my projector about 70% of the time streaming hdr shows from netflix, amazon prime, and hulu. Another 10% gaming. Madvr is useless for these situations. Just looks like Benq and JVC have the best tone mapping out for projectors right now. Benq just has a low contrast starting point or it might be as good as JVCs dtm.
> 
> 
> 
> Please do yourself a favor and steer clear of the 4K DLPs. Saying they have low contrast is being kind. The Epson's put up a much better picture.
Click to expand...

Oh I agree. Thats kinda my point. The epson has like 5xs the native contrast of the dlps. Yet in HDR mode several reviewers has noted that the Benq actually looks like it has better blacks in some scenes. Epsons tone mapping needs work.

In sdr iam sure the Epson smokes the Benq


----------



## DavidinGA

gunlife said:


> I have no problem with trying madvr. But I use my projector about 70% of the time streaming hdr shows from netflix, amazon prime, and hulu. Another 10% gaming. Madvr is useless for these situations. Just looks like Benq and JVC have the best tone mapping out for projectors right now. Benq just has a low contrast starting point or it might be as good as JVCs dtm.


Gotcha. ENVY maybe?

Honestly, if you're streaming content then you _really_ don't care about quality that much to begin with


----------



## gunlife

DavidinGA said:


> Gotcha. ENVY maybe?
> 
> Honestly, if you're streaming content then you _really_ don't care about quality that much to begin with /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif


I don't stream movies. Only the HDR shows. Yes the quality isnt perfect. But it can looks alot better with 4k and hdr than straight up 1080p. 

Envy isnt in my budget unfortunately!!


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> 100% agree with this comment.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I can get what I think is a pretty decent price on that one new but on a 150" screen where I'm watching sports about 1/2 the time with the lights on I'm very concerned about not having enough lumens. My guess is the lamps best day is coming in around 1,600 and it only goes down hill from there. Pitch black room with 135" or less, no brainer.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> I can get what I think is a pretty decent price on that one new but on a 150" screen where I'm watching sports about 1/2 the time with the lights on I'm very concerned about not having enough lumens. My guess is the lamps best day is coming in around 1,600 and it only goes down hill from there. Pitch black room with 135" or less, no brainer.


I think in a living room situation such as yours the Epson is still probably the right choice due to the reasons you mentioned. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> I think in a living room situation such as yours the Epson is still probably the right choice due to the reasons you mentioned.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


It's more of a jack of all trades situation. No windows, dark walls and ceiling but it's a man cave, not a theater. Had a friend over watching football on Saturday night. During football/basketball season there's a lot of that. It's one of those situations where half the time the other projector is the better choice. That being the case, might as well pick the trade off that comes with the extra money in my pocket.


----------



## gunlife

Hawkmarket said:


> It's more of a jack of all trades situation. No windows, dark walls and ceiling but it's a man cave, not a theater. Had a friend over watching football on Saturday night. During football/basketball season there's a lot of that. It's one of those situations where half the time the other projector is the better choice. That being the case, might as well pick the trade off that comes with the extra money in my pocket.


The 5050 definitely seems like the jack of all trades master! For your needs I think you are setup nicely. Like i said I am all for the 5050 just wish that the tone mapping was more refined. Or that an external tone mapper wasn't 5k!


----------



## DavidinGA

Hawkmarket said:


> I can get what I think is a pretty decent price on that one new but on a 150" screen where I'm watching sports about 1/2 the time with the lights on I'm very concerned about not having enough lumens. My guess is the lamps best day is coming in around 1,600 and it only goes down hill from there. Pitch black room with 135" or less, no brainer.


fwiw (and you probably already know this) but the Epson absolutely destroys the JVC in brightness when you need it (w/o color filter). If you have the lights on you'll need every bit of brightness you can get.

This is a good comparison review (just envision everything they say about the NX7 is going to be a little worse with a NX5): 






I run a 5040 on a 150" display and really appreciate the crazy high brightness it provides when I need it. This carries over to HDR content too; a 150" sucks up the light!


Here is a comparison of the brightness differences (brightest mode for each):


----------



## jeahrens

DavidinGA said:


> fwiw (and you probably already know this) but the Epson absolutely destroys the JVC in brightness when you need it (w/o color filter). If you have the lights on you'll need every bit of brightness you can get.
> 
> This is a good comparison review (just envision everything they say about the NX7 is going to be a little worse with a NX5):
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUroCr7AtDo
> 
> 
> I run a 5040 on a 150" display and really appreciate the crazy high brightness it provides when I need it. This carries over to HDR content too; a 150" sucks up the light!


I haven't watched that particular video, but based on the ridiculous numbers they came up with for the 5050 in a previous video and the fact they are comparing their "Pro" modified projector I would take anything out of the that with a HUGE grain of salt. 

The Epson in medium bulb is about 200-300 lumens brighter than the JVC NX in high (comparable noise levels). The NX5 will have similar color coverage as the Epson without filter. Much better contrast and motion. Native 4K and the optics to support it. And excellent Dynamic Tone Mapping built in. The 5050 is still a fair amount cheaper than either a B-stock NX5 and will light up a larger screen. However if you don't need the screen real estate and have the budget the NX5 is definitely a step up.


----------



## DavidinGA

jeahrens said:


> I haven't watched that particular video, but based on the ridiculous numbers they came up with for the 5050 in a previous video and the fact they are comparing their "Pro" modified projector I would take anything out of the that with a HUGE grain of salt.
> 
> The Epson in medium bulb is about 200-300 lumens brighter than the JVC NX in high (comparable noise levels). The NX5 will have similar color coverage as the Epson without filter. Much better contrast and motion. Native 4K and the optics to support it. And excellent Dynamic Tone Mapping built in. The 5050 is still a fair amount cheaper than either a B-stock NX5 and will light up a larger screen. However if you don't need the screen real estate and have the budget the NX5 is definitely a step up.


Yes, the NX series is very nice and improves in several ways over the 5050. I would still go with the 5050 over the NX simply for the big difference in brightness for an environment with ambient light. In a Batcave, the NX is the better pj if money isn't a concern...


----------



## jeahrens

DavidinGA said:


> Yes, the NX series is very nice and improves in several ways over the 5050. I would still go with the 5050 over the NX simply for the big difference in brightness for an environment with ambient light. In a Batcave, the NX is the better pj if money isn't a concern...


Of course lumens will always be a big factor in a room where ambient light must be present or you're set on a very large screen. The pricing on a b-stock NX5 and 5050 isn't that far apart. But the Epson will still save you some coin for sure.


----------



## Hawkmarket

gunlife said:


> The 5050 definitely seems like the jack of all trades master! For your needs I think you are setup nicely. Like i said I am all for the 5050 just wish that the tone mapping was more refined. Or that an external tone mapper wasn't 5k!



Having just messed around with an HDR projector this weekend I FINALLY got to see and ultimately wrap my head around tone mapping and it's benefits. Just reading about it doesn't really help you grasp it until you see it in action and based upon the results I had with the 5050 you could really see where dynamic tone mapping would be beneficial. I'm not willing to pay the premium to be one of it's early adopters in the projector world but I get the appeal. There were moments when it would hit just right on content I was watching on the 5050 which gave it a nice wow effect and then then many more where it was helpful but you felt like it was constantly in need of adjustment to get it just right. Give it a few years and it will be the norm and there will be some other carrot out there we just have to have because perfectly implemented dynamic tone mapping is just soooooo yesterday.


----------



## gunlife

Hawkmarket said:


> Having just messed around with an HDR projector this weekend I FINALLY got to see and ultimately wrap my head around tone mapping and it's benefits. Just reading about it doesn't really help you grasp it until you see it in action and based upon the results I had with the 5050 you could really see where dynamic tone mapping would be beneficial. I'm not willing to pay the premium to be one of it's early adopters in the projector world but I get the appeal. There were moments when it would hit just right on content I was watching on the 5050 which gave it a nice wow effect and then then many more where it was helpful but you felt like it was constantly in need of adjustment to get it just right. Give it a few years and it will be the norm and there will be some other carrot out there we just have to have because perfectly implemented dynamic tone mapping is just soooooo yesterday.



I agree with everything you just said. Just not sure why Epson chose to destroy their under 5k MSRP black level advantage with their chosen way to tone map. I first noticed the issue while reading Soundandvision.com review. On the test bench page they say this:

"The projector's full-on/ full-off SDR contrast ratio was achieved with the Natural color mode, Medium Power Consumption, and High Speed Auto Iris setting active. With this combination, black measured 0.001 ft-L and peak white 34.7 ft-L for a contrast ratio of 34,700:1. The projector's native (Auto Iris Off) contrast ratio with the same preset and Power Consumption mode active was 4,338:1. In HDR display mode with the Digital Cinema picture preset and High Power Consumption, High Speed Auto Iris, and default mid-point (7) HDR10 settings active, Full-on/full-off contrast ratio measured 0.08 nits black and 23.05 nits (24 ft-L) peak white for 1,153:1."

Now I am not questioning the reviews intent or integrity. It is a very well written and thoughtful review. BUT... would't you think they could have mentioned something in the main review. Something like... " The contrast is good in SDR but in HDR it drops to the levels of competing DLPs. It kinda defeats the term Ultra Black. Maybe Epson will have a new firmware update to address this issue in the future"

At first I thought this was just a one off review. Maybe a simple mistake either typo or calibration error. But after several other reviews mentioned that the Benq beats it in blacks in some scenes I realized its a serious issue. 

Kinda surprised this thread doesn't have some custom setting to off set this issue. If there are some that I have missed please point me in that direction!. I am still leaning the 5050 way. Just looking for a simple way to combat this issue.


----------



## jeahrens

gunlife said:


> I agree with everything you just said. Just not sure why Epson chose to destroy their under 5k MSRP black level advantage with their chosen way to tone map. I first noticed the issue while reading Soundandvision.com review. On the test bench page they say this:
> 
> "The projector's full-on/ full-off SDR contrast ratio was achieved with the Natural color mode, Medium Power Consumption, and High Speed Auto Iris setting active. With this combination, black measured 0.001 ft-L and peak white 34.7 ft-L for a contrast ratio of 34,700:1. The projector's native (Auto Iris Off) contrast ratio with the same preset and Power Consumption mode active was 4,338:1. In HDR display mode with the Digital Cinema picture preset and High Power Consumption, High Speed Auto Iris, and default mid-point (7) HDR10 settings active, Full-on/full-off contrast ratio measured 0.08 nits black and 23.05 nits (24 ft-L) peak white for 1,153:1."
> 
> Now I am not questioning the reviews intent or integrity. It is a very well written and thoughtful review. BUT... would't you think they could have mentioned something in the main review. Something like... " The contrast is good in SDR but in HDR it drops to the levels of competing DLPs. It kinda defeats the term Ultra Black. Maybe Epson will have a new firmware update to address this issue in the future"
> 
> At first I thought this was just a one off review. Maybe a simple mistake either typo or calibration error. But after several other reviews mentioned that the Benq beats it in blacks in some scenes I realized its a serious issue.
> 
> Kinda surprised this thread doesn't have some custom setting to off set this issue. If there are some that I have missed please point me in that direction!. I am still leaning the 5050 way. Just looking for a simple way to combat this issue.


I'm guessing a lot of owners are likely pairing the Epson with a Panasonic player with it's HDR optimizer. Not nearly as good as Dynamic Tone Mapping, but does a great job enhancing and working with static tone mapping solutions. The Panasonic HDR optimizer does have controls that address elevated blacks.


----------



## gunlife

jeahrens said:


> I'm guessing a lot of owners are likely pairing the Epson with a Panasonic player with it's HDR optimizer. Not nearly as good as Dynamic Tone Mapping, but does a great job enhancing and working with static tone mapping solutions. The Panasonic HDR optimizer does have controls that address elevated blacks.


Interesting. Can anyone verify if the Panasonic Player adds tone mapping for the apps like netflix? Or does it only work with UHDs? I will get it either way.


----------



## jeahrens

gunlife said:


> Interesting. Can anyone verify if the Panasonic Player adds tone mapping for the apps like netflix? Or does it only work with UHDs? I will get it either way.


The tonemapping should work for the players built in app. Which includes Netflix, Hulu and Prime. Our Internet is to pathetic to stream 4K so I can't personally verify it works with all the apps (I'm sure it does with Netflix and fairly sure it does with Hulu). Something to consider, for the cost of the Panasonic UB420 and the 5050 you are getting very close to the cost of a b-stock NX5 with built in DTM that is source agnostic. Sorry don't mean to sound repititive, just the DTM really is worth at least considering.


----------



## skylarlove1999

gunlife said:


> Interesting. Can anyone verify if the Panasonic Player adds tone mapping for the apps like netflix? Or does it only work with UHDs? I will get it either way.


The HDR Optimizer is the basic level of tone mapping that lets you choose between an assortment of brightness presets that match your display’s capability. Presets include 1500 nits, 1000 nits, and 500 nits, which roughly align with the light output capability of high brightness LCD TVs, OLED TVs, and lower brightness projectors. Once configured, the player applies a tone map designed to match the typical brightness seen from these displays. So this first layer of tone mapping would be utilized for discs and streaming. 

The second layer of tone mapping only takes effect when the player receives metadata from a UHD disc. I am unaware of any streaming content that contains metadata so I do not know if that feature would have been designed for streaming content.

The player looks at the HDR metadata in the program and bases its processing on that information (including the maximum brightness of the display used for mastering and the program’s maximum pixel level).

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/panasonic-dp-ub820-ultra-hd-blu-ray-player-review-page-2


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

jeahrens said:


> The tonemapping should work for the players built in app. Which includes Netflix, Hulu and Prime. Our Internet is to pathetic to stream 4K so I can't personally verify it works with all the apps (I'm sure it does with Netflix and fairly sure it does with Hulu). Something to consider, for the cost of the Panasonic UB420 and the 5050 you are getting very close to the cost of a b-stock NX5 with built in DTM that is source agnostic. Sorry don't mean to sound repititive, just the DTM really is worth at least considering.


You don't sound like a broken record. I do see your point. But either way I need to get a high quality UHD player so your point isn't exactly fair. I have been using an Xbox One S and have found it to be a horrible player so I am grabbing the panny as soon as I find time to run up to Best Buy.


----------



## marco1475

I am considering buying the Epson 5050UB, but the only place where I can put it is on top of a bookcase that is right behind the sofa (main viewing position). So there would be maybe 2 feet of vertical distance and almost no horizontal distance between my ears and the front of the projector.

Obviously sitting that close to the projector is not recommended, but how bad would it be? I have no sense of what "22 dB in ECO mode" means. People who own the projector, would you still want to use it if you had to sit that close? Or would you opt for a TV instead?


----------



## skylarlove1999

marco1475 said:


> I am considering buying the Epson 5050UB, but the only place where I can put it is on top of a bookcase that is right behind the sofa (main viewing position). So there would be maybe 2 feet of vertical distance and almost no horizontal distance between my ears and the front of the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously sitting that close to the projector is not recommended, but how bad would it be? I have no sense of what "22 dB in ECO mode" means. People who own the projector, would you still want to use it if you had to sit that close? Or would you opt for a TV instead?


I would probably opt for a television at that point because high lamp mode, which you probably will use for HDR at least, it is audible to me in quiet moments in movies and I sit 4 ft below and 3 ft in front . The projector also gives quite a bit of heat that I would not want blowing on me.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## pete ramberg

What about adjusting the low-end gamma value(s)? Has anyone tried that with any success?






gunlife said:


> I agree with everything you just said. Just not sure why Epson chose to destroy their under 5k MSRP black level advantage with their chosen way to tone map. I first noticed the issue while reading Soundandvision.com review. On the test bench page they say this:
> 
> "The projector's full-on/ full-off SDR contrast ratio was achieved with the Natural color mode, Medium Power Consumption, and High Speed Auto Iris setting active. With this combination, black measured 0.001 ft-L and peak white 34.7 ft-L for a contrast ratio of 34,700:1. The projector's native (Auto Iris Off) contrast ratio with the same preset and Power Consumption mode active was 4,338:1. In HDR display mode with the Digital Cinema picture preset and High Power Consumption, High Speed Auto Iris, and default mid-point (7) HDR10 settings active, Full-on/full-off contrast ratio measured 0.08 nits black and 23.05 nits (24 ft-L) peak white for 1,153:1."
> 
> Now I am not questioning the reviews intent or integrity. It is a very well written and thoughtful review. BUT... would't you think they could have mentioned something in the main review. Something like... " The contrast is good in SDR but in HDR it drops to the levels of competing DLPs. It kinda defeats the term Ultra Black. Maybe Epson will have a new firmware update to address this issue in the future"
> 
> At first I thought this was just a one off review. Maybe a simple mistake either typo or calibration error. But after several other reviews mentioned that the Benq beats it in blacks in some scenes I realized its a serious issue.
> 
> Kinda surprised this thread doesn't have some custom setting to off set this issue. If there are some that I have missed please point me in that direction!. I am still leaning the 5050 way. Just looking for a simple way to combat this issue.


----------



## marco1475

skylarlove1999 said:


> I would probably opt for a television at that point because high lamp mode, which you probably will use for HDR at least, it is audible to me in quiet moments in movies and I sit 4 ft below and 3 ft in front.


I forgot to add that this would also be in a living room with some ambient light - I have black-out blinds, but they have to cover 3 windows along the left wall (none behind the projector). I'm guessing I would want to use the high-lamp mode to overcome the ambient light in the room as well? 



skylarlove1999 said:


> The projector also gives quite a bit of heat that I would not want blowing on me.


The heat is a good point, I didn't think about that. Thanks!


----------



## skylarlove1999

marco1475 said:


> I forgot to add that this would also be in a living room with some ambient light - I have black-out blinds, but they have to cover 3 windows along the left wall (none behind the projector). I'm guessing I would want to use the high-lamp mode to overcome the ambient light in the room as well?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The heat is a good point, I didn't think about that. Thanks!


https://www.whathifi.com/us/news/ce...-500-4k-ultra-short-throw-laser-projection-tv


I have no idea what your budget is I'm just throwing this out there

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

pete ramberg said:


> What about adjusting the low-end gamma value(s)? Has anyone tried that with any success?


Not to my knowledge. It might work but I think it would have to be done per movie. The gamma levels would change depending on the movie sent to it. Although it would probably be consistent if sent the pre tone mapped signal from the Panasonic players.


----------



## marco1475

skylarlove1999 said:


> https://www.whathifi.com/us/news/ce...-500-4k-ultra-short-throw-laser-projection-tv
> 
> I have no idea what your budget is I'm just throwing this out there


Thanks, UST projectors were on my list as well, but a standard-throw projector would work better with my setup.


----------



## skylarlove1999

marco1475 said:


> Thanks, UST projectors were on my list as well, but a standard-throw projector would work better with my setup.


The projector does have 47% horizontal lens shift which means the projector can be quite a bit off center. Any way you could shift it 3 ft off center either left or right? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

Luminated67 said:


> Try Digital Cinema and set your HDR level some where between 1 and 6, also put lamp mode to Medium.



Here you go:


----------



## Kelvin1000

More SDR uncalibrated pics:


----------



## skylarlove1999

Kelvin1000 said:


> Here you go:


Man that is a beautiful shot. Thanks for sharing. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

Does anyone use the Epson 5050UB as a second display device on a receiver with dual (cloned) HDMI outputs (i.e. a 4k HDR TV like an LG C8 OLED on HDMI1 and the Epson 5050UB on HDMI2)? I am using it this way with a Yamaha RX-A3070, multiple 4k sources, and an LG C8 on HDMI1 out and the Epson 5050UB on HDMI2 out and am having trouble finding a long HDMI cable between the reciever and proejctor that works 100%. If you have this setup, what long HDMI cable are you using that works?

Passive 50' cables don't pass high bandwidth modes (anything more than 4k60 8-bit 4:2:0). And active cables are giving me issues when switching from the projector back to the LG. Basically it appears that my two choices for active 4k HDMI 2.0 18gbps hybrid fiber cables (MavisLink and RUIPRO) don't recognize the projector going into standby and continue to try to have the receiver sync with HDMI2 even while the projector is in standby. I get audio through my speakers and a picture on the LG for awhile while the receiver is blinking the HDMI2 out indicator, but eventually the Yamaha gives up and goes blank (no HDMI indicators, no audio, no video on the LG) untill I unplug the 50' HDMI cable or unplug the power from the projector. Here's my post in the long HDMI 2.0 cables thread with the details:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-...support-18gbps-hdmi-2-0b-45.html#post58714868

So, I'd love to hear, if you have a similar setup with both a 4k TV and a 5050UB and especially if you have both connected to a Yamaha receiver and a long run to your projector, what cable you are using.

Thanks in advance!

-J.C.


----------



## ameer

DavidinGA said:


> That's interesting about the on board chips.
> 
> 
> Have you considered an htpc w/madVR?
> 
> I'm running an Epson 5040 with MadVR and the hdr is amazing! Basically any pj you get right now can be improved upon with MadVR (even the jvc's with the dtm firmware update); it's that good.
> 
> I know a lot of people don't want to dive into it, but w/o madVR (or equivalent) your missing out when it comes to hdr.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Can you share your settings in madvr? I mainly use pass hdr if display support it.


----------



## ameer

pete ramberg said:


> Avengers:End Game is shot in 6.5K but the digital master is 2K.
> 
> Therein lies the problem: we fail to look at the source and spend too much time on the projector displaying the source!!
> 
> 2K masters, while upscaled on a UHD disc to 4K, are still 2K. With the pixel shifting only displaying 4 MP, there is little, if any, increase in RESOLUTION seen by our eyeballs. 2K upscaled to 8 MP, but displayed at 4 MP is going to look pretty much like 2K.
> 
> I think we need to be aware of the source resolution. Obviously, there's a whole lot more going on than just resolution too..


On projector side I use 4k enhancement, on my PC: 1080p resolution with 4:4:4, 12bit, isn't that better situation when feeding it with 4k contents? Since upscaling on projector side (from 1080p to 4k) bypass the limitation of HDMI 2 that cannot output 4k, 4:4:4 on 60 hz.


----------



## Yves Claeys

DavidinGA said:


> I'd have to go look, but I'm currently running build 86 (they are up over 100 now).
> 
> Follow this thread:
> 
> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eavsforum%2Ecom%2Fforum%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D2954506&share_tid=2954506&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



thx, how many nits do you input for the 6050?


----------



## Kelvin1000

jch2 said:


> Does anyone use the Epson 5050UB as a second display device on a receiver with dual (cloned) HDMI outputs (i.e. a 4k HDR TV like an LG C8 OLED on HDMI1 and the Epson 5050UB on HDMI2)? I am using it this way with a Yamaha RX-A3070, multiple 4k sources, and an LG C8 on HDMI1 out and the Epson 5050UB on HDMI2 out and am having trouble finding a long HDMI cable between the reciever and proejctor that works 100%. If you have this setup, what long HDMI cable are you using that works?
> 
> Passive 50' cables don't pass high bandwidth modes (anything more than 4k60 8-bit 4:2:0). And active cables are giving me issues when switching from the projector back to the LG. Basically it appears that my two choices for active 4k HDMI 2.0 18gbps hybrid fiber cables (MavisLink and RUIPRO) don't recognize the projector going into standby and continue to try to have the receiver sync with HDMI2 even while the projector is in standby. I get audio through my speakers and a picture on the LG for awhile while the receiver is blinking the HDMI2 out indicator, but eventually the Yamaha gives up and goes blank (no HDMI indicators, no audio, no video on the LG) untill I unplug the 50' HDMI cable or unplug the power from the projector. Here's my post in the long HDMI 2.0 cables thread with the details:
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-...support-18gbps-hdmi-2-0b-45.html#post58714868
> 
> So, I'd love to hear, if you have a similar setup with both a 4k TV and a 5050UB and especially if you have both connected to a Yamaha receiver and a long run to your projector, what cable you are using.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> -J.C.




I had some random handshake issues with various sources when I was using a fiber optic cables which went away completely when I switched to this Blue Jeans Series-3A Active HDMI Cable:

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/series3a.htm

This “active” cable has been absolutely flawless at 40 feet with 4K HDR 60FPS 4:4:4 and every other resolution I have thrown at it.

Definitely worth the purchase!


----------



## jch2

Kelvin1000 said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone use the Epson 5050UB as a second display device on a receiver with dual (cloned) HDMI outputs (i.e. a 4k HDR TV like an LG C8 OLED on HDMI1 and the Epson 5050UB on HDMI2)? I am using it this way with a Yamaha RX-A3070, multiple 4k sources, and an LG C8 on HDMI1 out and the Epson 5050UB on HDMI2 out and am having trouble finding a long HDMI cable between the reciever and proejctor that works 100%. If you have this setup, what long HDMI cable are you using that works?
> 
> Passive 50' cables don't pass high bandwidth modes (anything more than 4k60 8-bit 4:2:0). And active cables are giving me issues when switching from the projector back to the LG. Basically it appears that my two choices for active 4k HDMI 2.0 18gbps hybrid fiber cables (MavisLink and RUIPRO) don't recognize the projector going into standby and continue to try to have the receiver sync with HDMI2 even while the projector is in standby. I get audio through my speakers and a picture on the LG for awhile while the receiver is blinking the HDMI2 out indicator, but eventually the Yamaha gives up and goes blank (no HDMI indicators, no audio, no video on the LG) untill I unplug the 50' HDMI cable or unplug the power from the projector. Here's my post in the long HDMI 2.0 cables thread with the details:
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-...support-18gbps-hdmi-2-0b-45.html#post58714868
> 
> So, I'd love to hear, if you have a similar setup with both a 4k TV and a 5050UB and especially if you have both connected to a Yamaha receiver and a long run to your projector, what cable you are using.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> -J.C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some random handshake issues with various sources when I was using a fiber optic cables which went away completely when I switched to this Blue Jeans Series-3A Active HDMI Cable:
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/series3a.htm
> 
> This active cable has been absolutely flawless at 40 feet with 4K HDR 60FPS 4:4:4 and every other resolution I have thrown at it.
> 
> Definitely worth the purchase!
Click to expand...

Where can I buy this? I can't find the BJC Series-3A cables for sale anywhere, even on the Blue Jeans Cable website. Can you please post a link of the cables for sale? A 40' cable would be perfect for my use (10m/33' too short and 15m/50' is a bit long, but 40' is just right).


----------



## owensun

Hi Team, I currently have a Benq W1070+ PLUS and want to upgrade to a 4k projector.
I have found an Epson EH-TW9300W on sale (apparently) for around $2800 and just want everyone opinion before pulling the trigger. I am aware that only sony do true 4k projectors but my budget is $3000.
Do you guys think the Epson EH-TW9300W is a good buy or would you recommend something else?
I've got an xbox one x and am looking for something that can play 4k games
any help would be appreciated. also is $2800 a good price?
also I'm a little confused about the American model number vs the Australian model number
Thanks


----------



## jch2

owensun said:


> Hi Team, I currently have a Benq W1070+ PLUS and want to upgrade to a 4k projector.
> I have found an Epson EH-TW9300W on sale (apparently) for around $2800 and just want everyone opinion before pulling the trigger. I am aware that only sony do true 4k projectors but my budget is $3000.
> Do you guys think the Epson EH-TW9300W is a good buy or would you recommend something else?
> I've got an xbox one x and am looking for something that can play 4k games
> any help would be appreciated. also is $2800 a good price?
> also I'm a little confused about the American model number vs the Australian model number
> Thanks


The TW9300 is "last year's model" and is similar to the Epson 6040UB, and both are similar to the TW8300/5040UB. You can get a new Epson 5050UB from Amazon US for US$2999. The 5050UB/6050UB are similar to the EH-TW8400/TW9400. Or you can wait until next month and the price will drop to $2699 ($300 off). It is a great projector, the TW8400/5050UB or TW9400/6050UB are better than the TW9300 and worth getting.


----------



## noob00224

@jch2 the TW9400 is more similar to the 6050UB specification wise.
The TW8400 seems more similar to the 5050UB.

@owensun this is the Epson product page for Australia, no 9300:
https://www.epson.com.au/products/home-theatre-projectors/?grouptypeID=32

Not sure about the Australian market, but $2800 seems steep for a previous generation model.

What is the size room that is going to be used? Ceiling height?
Seating distance? Size and format of current screen? Fabric of screen?
Color of walls? Any light from the windows?
Any other use than Xbox games? What kind of games?


----------



## marco1475

skylarlove1999 said:


> The projector does have 47% horizontal lens shift which means the projector can be quite a bit off center. Any way you could shift it 3 ft off center either left or right?


I have a wall that's 115" long to play with. However, 113" of that overlap with the sectional, so with a full house somebody will likely always sit right under the projector. I was playing with the idea of putting it on a shelf close to the ceiling, but I was worried about HDMI cable length ...


----------



## biglen

jch2 said:


> Where can I buy this? I can't find the BJC Series-3A cables for sale anywhere, even on the Blue Jeans Cable website. Can you please post a link of the cables for sale? A 40' cable would be perfect for my use (10m/33' too short and 15m/50' is a bit long, but 40' is just right).


https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

marco1475 said:


> I have a wall that's 115" long to play with. However, 113" of that overlap with the sectional, so with a full house somebody will likely always sit right under the projector. I was playing with the idea of putting it on a shelf close to the ceiling, but I was worried about HDMI cable length ...


I wouldn't be that concerned about the cable length honestly there are plenty of people myself included have run anywhere from 25 to 50 ft or more of cable sometimes you have to go to the fiber optic cable but the one listed above the blue jeans cable seems to work really well for a lot of people

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

ameer said:


> Can you share your settings in madvr? I mainly use pass hdr if display support it.


This screenshot is build 86

The min target/real display peak nits: "79" should be "99" on my setup and this number will be different for you depending on your display brightness (take your fc or fl number and multiply it by 3.43 to get your nits value).


----------



## DavidinGA

Yves Claeys said:


> thx, how many nits do you input for the 6050?



I have a 5040, but it will be relative still...

I have a 150" 16:9 screen with my pj about 18ft away and on Natural mode in medium lamp I get 29fc/fL or 99nits.

Multiply your fc/fL value by 3.43 = nits value


----------



## jch2

biglen said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where can I buy this? I can't find the BJC Series-3A cables for sale anywhere, even on the Blue Jeans Cable website. Can you please post a link of the cables for sale? A 40' cable would be perfect for my use (10m/33' too short and 15m/50' is a bit long, but 40' is just right).
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Oh wow, those don't show up on the mobile version of that page (when accessed from my Android phone). I had to switch to desktop mode to see the Series-3 cables.

Thanks!

-J.C.


----------



## DunMunro

Not one, but two new HC5050UB reviews:


https://hometheaterreview.com/epson-home-cinema-5050ub-projector-reviewed/

and:

https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...me-cinema-5050ub-4k-pro-uhd-projector-review/


and I'll add a link to the previously mentioned comparison review:

http://cine4home.de/benq-w5700-vs-epson-tw9400-das-grosse-duell-der-4k-hdr-wohnzimmerbeamer/


----------



## gunlife

DunMunro said:


> Not one, but two new HC5050UB reviews:
> 
> 
> https://hometheaterreview.com/epson-home-cinema-5050ub-projector-reviewed/
> 
> and:
> 
> https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...me-cinema-5050ub-4k-pro-uhd-projector-review/
> 
> 
> and I'll add a link to the previously mentioned comparison review:
> 
> http://cine4home.de/benq-w5700-vs-epson-tw9400-das-grosse-duell-der-4k-hdr-wohnzimmerbeamer/


Those sound good!


----------



## fredworld

gunlife said:


> Those sound good!



There are several others out there on:

Projector Reviews
Another from Projector Reviews
Projector Central
Sound and Vision
and, of course, AVSForum


----------



## rollon1980

pete ramberg said:


> What about adjusting the low-end gamma value(s)? Has anyone tried that with any success?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with everything you just said. Just not sure why Epson chose to destroy their under 5k MSRP black level advantage with their chosen way to tone map. I first noticed the issue while reading Soundandvision.com review. On the test bench page they say this:
> 
> "The projector's full-on/ full-off SDR contrast ratio was achieved with the Natural color mode, Medium Power Consumption, and High Speed Auto Iris setting active. With this combination, black measured 0.001 ft-L and peak white 34.7 ft-L for a contrast ratio of 34,700:1. The projector's native (Auto Iris Off) contrast ratio with the same preset and Power Consumption mode active was 4,338:1. In HDR display mode with the Digital Cinema picture preset and High Power Consumption, High Speed Auto Iris, and default mid-point (7) HDR10 settings active, Full-on/full-off contrast ratio measured 0.08 nits black and 23.05 nits (24 ft-L) peak white for 1,153:1."
> 
> Now I am not questioning the reviews intent or integrity. It is a very well written and thoughtful review. BUT... would't you think they could have mentioned something in the main review. Something like... " The contrast is good in SDR but in HDR it drops to the levels of competing DLPs. It kinda defeats the term Ultra Black. Maybe Epson will have a new firmware update to address this issue in the future"
> 
> At first I thought this was just a one off review. Maybe a simple mistake either typo or calibration error. But after several other reviews mentioned that the Benq beats it in blacks in some scenes I realized its a serious issue.
> 
> Kinda surprised this thread doesn't have some custom setting to off set this issue. If there are some that I have missed please point me in that direction!. I am still leaning the 5050 way. Just looking for a simple way to combat this issue.
Click to expand...

Yes. I calibrated Dynamic for HDR as follows (including gamma)

- minimised the green / blue hue using the gain controls but still left a blue / green push that is not visually noticeable above 50% stimulus so brightness is not compromised.
- I adjusted the 7-point greyscale controls below 50% stimulus to be on D65 exactly as colour deviation is more noticeable below 50%
- did CMS
- custom gamma with -4 on the second gamma control from the bottom. This is what visually matched to a properly calibrated LG OLED most closely 
- brightness -1 as most HDR masters have a slightly lifted black floor! Alternative is to use the bottom gamma control as -1. 

This is my best HDR-like calibration. Sure it may not be as accurate as calibrating Natural or Digital Cinema but the errors are not visible and it delivers the most brightness. For Xbox HDR gaming especially, it looks awesome! 

I found Digital Cinema gamma to be a lot more in line with what’s expected but you can still bring the mentioned gamma control to -1 or -2!! 

Natural picture mode HDR calibration would need around -2.

Since the black floor is lifted on lots of HDR movies, you can either change brightness to -1 or better yet use the bottom gamma control. You can experiment.

I have let Epson know about the lifted low-end gamma in HDR and I’m sure the guys who have did those reviews also did. I’m unsure why they didn’t use the custom gamma controls, though. They’d have to say. 🙂 

I think lots of calibrators really wanna stick to getting perfect charts but I find that’s not always what delivers the best picture that visually aligns to the original intent. Definitely much more true for HDR where we can’t have pretty charts and it’s a compromise. The question is where will you compromise. 😉


----------



## ameer

DavidinGA said:


> This screenshot is build 86
> 
> The min target/real display peak nits: "79" should be "99" on my setup and this number will be different for you depending on your display brightness (take your fc or fl number and multiply it by 3.43 to get your nits value).


Thank you very much, tried it here is my first results:
Both pictures on digital cinema mode, both with madvr tone mapping.

With HDR enabled in Windows & projector:










With HDR disabled:


----------



## DavidinGA

ameer said:


> Thank you very much, tried it here is my first results:
> 
> Both pictures on digital cinema mode, both with madvr tone mapping.
> 
> 
> 
> With HDR enabled in Windows & projector:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With HDR disabled:


Which image do you prefer?

On my phone it looks like "disabled" looks better. 

Disabled looks like it has more depth and enabled is more flat looking (again, on my phone lol). 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

rollon1980 said:


> Yes. I calibrated Dynamic for HDR as follows (including gamma)
> 
> - minimised the green / blue hue using the gain controls but still left a blue / green push that is not visually noticeable above 50% stimulus so brightness is not compromised.
> - I adjusted the 7-point greyscale controls below 50% stimulus to be on D65 exactly as colour deviation is more noticeable below 50%
> - did CMS
> - custom gamma with -4 on the second gamma control from the bottom. This is what visually matched to a properly calibrated LG OLED most closely
> - brightness -1 as most HDR masters have a slightly lifted black floor! Alternative is to use the bottom gamma control as -1.
> 
> This is my best HDR-like calibration. Sure it may not be as accurate as calibrating Natural or Digital Cinema but the errors are not visible and it delivers the most brightness. For Xbox HDR gaming especially, it looks awesome!
> 
> I found Digital Cinema gamma to be a lot more in line with what’s expected but you can still bring the mentioned gamma control to -1 or -2!!
> 
> Natural picture mode HDR calibration would need around -2.
> 
> Since the black floor is lifted on lots of HDR movies, you can either change brightness to -1 or better yet use the bottom gamma control. You can experiment.
> 
> I have let Epson know about the lifted low-end gamma in HDR and I’m sure the guys who have did those reviews also did. I’m unsure why they didn’t use the custom gamma controls, though. They’d have to say. 🙂
> 
> I think lots of calibrators really wanna stick to getting perfect charts but I find that’s not always what delivers the best picture that visually aligns to the original intent. Definitely much more true for HDR where we can’t have pretty charts and it’s a compromise. The question is where will you compromise. 😉



Thanks for taking the time to write this up. Great post.

So you feel like your not loosing much black floor while in HDR with a simple -1 gamma change? 

I have heard alot of HDR disks have raised black floors. Totally don't understand what they are doing. The whole freaking point is to have the darkest blacks and brightest highlights. We don't need to go backwards!

How badly does your Oled smoke your 5050 in HDR performance. I understand the differences. Just curious to hear your thoughts as you obviously enjoy you home theater.


----------



## ameer

rollon1980 said:


> Yes. I calibrated Dynamic for HDR as follows (including gamma)
> 
> 
> 
> This is my best HDR-like calibration. Sure it may not be as accurate as calibrating Natural or Digital Cinema but the errors are not visible and it delivers the most brightness. For Xbox HDR gaming especially, it looks awesome!


Can you please share your exact settings, I used the calibration data on projectorreviews.com (on digital cinema & natural) and it does make difference with me (positively)
It will be interesting to check your take on Dynamic mode.



DavidinGA said:


> Which image do you prefer?
> 
> On my phone it looks like "disabled" looks better.
> 
> Disabled looks like it has more depth and enabled is more flat looking (again, on my phone lol).
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Yes, I like the disabled more, it really make difference especially in dark scenes, HDR mode -as you said- more flat!
Also the HDR highlights between dark and bright spots is really remarkable and has its wow factor with madvr + disabled HDR on windows/projector.


----------



## DavidinGA

ameer said:


> Can you please share your exact settings, I used the calibration data on projectorreviews.com (on digital cinema & natural) and it does make difference with me (positively)
> 
> It will be interesting to check your take on Dynamic mode.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I like the disabled more, it really make difference especially in dark scenes, HDR mode -as you said- more flat!
> 
> Also the HDR highlights between dark and bright spots is really remarkable and has its wow factor with madvr + disabled HDR on windows/projector.


Awesome!

Had you ever used the dtm in madvr before? It makes a huge difference for me, plus being able to run amazing HDR in natural mode and medium lamp is a huge benefit too!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## ameer

DavidinGA said:


> Awesome!
> 
> Had you ever used the dtm in madvr before? It makes a huge difference for me, plus being able to run amazing HDR in natural mode and medium lamp is a huge benefit too!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


DTM??

Dynamic tone mapping you mean? I thought D stand for device (or dedicated) .. oh!

Is there a guide somewhere for that dtm  ?


----------



## Pfw

Was wondering how close you are sitting to screen using epson 5050. I’m thinking of using 100” screen at about 9’ 8”to back of couch,so you would be about 9’ from screen. Would I get screen door effect at that distance?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Pfw said:


> Was wondering how close you are sitting to screen using epson 5050. I’m thinking of using 100” screen at about 9’ 8”to back of couch,so you would be about 9’ from screen. Would I get screen door effect at that distance?


You would not. Really have to be 4 ft or closer. Even then most people would not see it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## amdar

I am setting up a 115 inch 2:35:1 Silver Ticket screen as i mostly watch 4K Ultra HD movies. Can i mount the projector first and achieve the 2:35:1 display with help of lens shift? or Do i need to move projector front or back to achieve the 2:35:1?


----------



## gunlife

Pfw said:


> Was wondering how close you are sitting to screen using epson 5050. Iâ€™️m thinking of using 100â€ screen at about 9â€™️ 8â€to back of couch,so you would be about 9â€™️ from screen. Would I get screen door effect at that distance?


Lots will disagree with this. I have an epson 4000 which is similar. The 5050 is supposed to have a slightly improved pixel shift system.

I sit 9-10ft back from a 100in. In light white scenes like clouds or snow I can tell there are pixels there. Your not making out the whole grid or anything but there is a little black in there that shouldn't be. 

Not a deal breaker. Still probably about to get a 5050 for the 18ghz and much improved blacks.


----------



## Pfw

skylarlove1999 said:


> You would not. Really have to be 4 ft or closer. Even then most people would not see it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks for making up my mind


----------



## skylarlove1999

gunlife said:


> Lots will disagree with this. I have an epson 4000 which is similar. The 5050 is supposed to have a slightly improved pixel shift system.
> 
> I sit 9-10ft back from a 100in. In light white scenes like clouds or snow I can tell there are pixels there. Your not making out the whole grid or anything but there is a little black in there that shouldn't be.
> 
> Not a deal breaker. Still probably about to get a 5050 for the 18ghz and much improved blacks.


The pixel fill on the 5050 is much improved over the 4000. The 4000 definitely shares some technology with the 5050 but is an older generation projector. I would be shocked if you can make out any SDE in any scene after you are 4 ft away once you install your 5050.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ijansch

amdar said:


> I am setting up a 115 inch 2:35:1 Silver Ticket screen as i mostly watch 4K Ultra HD movies. Can i mount the projector first and achieve the 2:35:1 display with help of lens shift? or Do i need to move projector front or back to achieve the 2:35:1?




I think you would use the motorized zoom (not lens shift) and lens memory to switch between 2.35 and 16:9. I don’t speak from experience but it’s one of the reasons I’m considering this projector. It seems to be the only one in this price range with the memory presets. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

ameer said:


> DTM??
> 
> 
> 
> Dynamic tone mapping you mean? I thought D stand for device (or dedicated) .. oh!
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a guide somewhere for that dtm  ?


No guide needed, your using it now if you tried that build I mentioned (86). They've actually had dtm for a long while on madvr now. The short answer is every frame gets (dynamic) tone-mapped vs a static amount. 

It's really the dynamic part that makes the big difference. Disc players and most pj's are still using static tone-mapping which is mediocre at best (people speak highly of them ~oppo or Panasonic players usually ~ until they see dynamic tone mapping and they're eyes of opened). 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

skylarlove1999 said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lots will disagree with this. I have an epson 4000 which is similar. The 5050 is supposed to have a slightly improved pixel shift system.
> 
> I sit 9-10ft back from a 100in. In light white scenes like clouds or snow I can tell there are pixels there. Your not making out the whole grid or anything but there is a little black in there that shouldn't be.
> 
> Not a deal breaker. Still probably about to get a 5050 for the 18ghz and much improved blacks.
> 
> 
> 
> The pixel fill on the 5050 is much improved over the 4000. The 4000 definitely shares some technology with the 5050 but is an older generation projector. I would be shocked if you can make out any SDE in any scene after you are 4 ft away once you install your 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Damn dude you trying to sell 2 5050s for epson in one night?


----------



## rollon1980

gunlife said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. I calibrated Dynamic for HDR as follows (including gamma)
> 
> - minimised the green / blue hue using the gain controls but still left a blue / green push that is not visually noticeable above 50% stimulus so brightness is not compromised.
> - I adjusted the 7-point greyscale controls below 50% stimulus to be on D65 exactly as colour deviation is more noticeable below 50%
> - did CMS
> - custom gamma with -4 on the second gamma control from the bottom. This is what visually matched to a properly calibrated LG OLED most closely
> - brightness -1 as most HDR masters have a slightly lifted black floor! Alternative is to use the bottom gamma control as -1.
> 
> This is my best HDR-like calibration. Sure it may not be as accurate as calibrating Natural or Digital Cinema but the errors are not visible and it delivers the most brightness. For Xbox HDR gaming especially, it looks awesome!
> 
> I found Digital Cinema gamma to be a lot more in line with whatâ€™️s expected but you can still bring the mentioned gamma control to -1 or -2!!
> 
> Natural picture mode HDR calibration would need around -2.
> 
> Since the black floor is lifted on lots of HDR movies, you can either change brightness to -1 or better yet use the bottom gamma control. You can experiment.
> 
> I have let Epson know about the lifted low-end gamma in HDR and Iâ€™️m sure the guys who have did those reviews also did. Iâ€™️m unsure why they didnâ€™️t use the custom gamma controls, though. Theyâ€™️d have to say. 🙂
> 
> I think lots of calibrators really wanna stick to getting perfect charts but I find thatâ€™️s not always what delivers the best picture that visually aligns to the original intent. Definitely much more true for HDR where we canâ€™️t have pretty charts and itâ€™️s a compromise. The question is where will you compromise. 😉
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to write this up. Great post.
> 
> So you feel like your not loosing much black floor while in HDR with a simple -1 gamma change?
> 
> I have heard alot of HDR disks have raised black floors. Totally don't understand what they are doing. The whole freaking point is to have the darkest blacks and brightest highlights. We don't need to go backwards!
> 
> How badly does your Oled smoke your 5050 in HDR performance. I understand the differences. Just curious to hear your thoughts as you obviously enjoy you home theater.
Click to expand...

That’s ok. You’re welcome!

I just use brightness -1 for HDR (as opposed to mess with the bottom gamma point) and changed the second gamma point from the bottom dependent on picture mode:
-1 for Digital Cinema
-2 for Natural
-3 for Bright Cinema
-4 for Dynamic 

However I only really use my Digital Cinema and Dynamic picture modes I calibrated for HDR. 

You won’t lose much black detail if any. By default, no disk is mastered to 0nit for black level due to how the HDR10 standard has been written. In fact, if we were following the standard to the letter, we should be cutting any shadow detail that our displays cannot display. Let’s just say the standard is just ludicrous and written in a way that’s impractical and stupid. 

There is no comparison to an OLED in pure picture quality but it’s only 65” and my projection is 100”. I find more enjoyment in watching movies at 100” sitting 2.5 meters away than doing it on a 65” OLED. 

The only exception is Planet Earth II. Omg, looks amaaaaaaaaaazing on an OLED and needs to be seen there. 😉


----------



## rollon1980

ameer said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. I calibrated Dynamic for HDR as follows (including gamma)
> 
> 
> 
> This is my best HDR-like calibration. Sure it may not be as accurate as calibrating Natural or Digital Cinema but the errors are not visible and it delivers the most brightness. For Xbox HDR gaming especially, it looks awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> Can you please share your exact settings, I used the calibration data on projectorreviews.com (on digital cinema & natural) and it does make difference with me (positively)
> It will be interesting to check your take on Dynamic mode.
> 
> 
> 
> DavidinGA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Which image do you prefer?
> 
> On my phone it looks like "disabled" looks better.
> 
> Disabled looks like it has more depth and enabled is more flat looking (again, on my phone lol).
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, I like the disabled more, it really make difference especially in dark scenes, HDR mode -as you said- more flat!
> Also the HDR highlights between dark and bright spots is really remarkable and has its wow factor with madvr + disabled HDR on windows/projector.
Click to expand...

I’ll copy them out when I get some alone time with the projector - and remote - likely closer to the weekend.


----------



## amdar

Thanks for the quick reply. So i could mount the projector in 14ft and use the motorized zoom to get 2:35:1 display. 



ijansch said:


> I think you would use the motorized zoom (not lens shift) and lens memory to switch between 2.35 and 16:9. I don’t speak from experience but it’s one of the reasons I’m considering this projector. It seems to be the only one in this price range with the memory presets.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

amdar said:


> Thanks for the quick reply. So i could mount the projector in 14ft and use the motorized zoom to get 2:35:1 display.


Correct. You'd hit the lens button, and set the 16:9 screen size you want, then lock it into one of the memories. Then do the same for your Scope image. You'll have the 16:9 on one memory button, and 2:35:1 on the other button. It's really cool when you have a widescreen movie playing when it's set to 16:9, then you hit the 2:35:1 memory button, and watch the widescreen image fill out the screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## amdar

Thanks for the details.



biglen said:


> Correct. You'd hit the lens button, and set the 16:9 screen size you want, then lock it into one of the memories. Then do the same for your Scope image. You'll have the 16:9 on one memory button, and 2:35:1 on the other button. It's really cool when you have a widescreen movie playing when it's set to 16:9, then you hit the 2:35:1 memory button, and watch the widescreen image fill out the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

amdar said:


> Thanks for the details.


With a 2:35:1 screen showing 16:9 would you have bars on the sides?


----------



## ijansch

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



HTX^2steve said:


> With a 2:35:1 screen showing 16:9 would you have bars on the sides?




You wouldn’t have ‘projected bars’ like when you do it the other way round, but the parts of the screen where no light gets projected on might still be visible depending on ambient/stray light. Some people aren’t bothered by it, others add black masking. 

I’m planning to add electric DIY masking that comes from the side, to give it a bit of cinematic effect. Example build thread with such masking: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-d...masking-system-somfy-motors.html#post23302970


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

biglen said:


> Correct. You'd hit the lens button, and set the 16:9 screen size you want, then lock it into one of the memories. Then do the same for your Scope image. You'll have the 16:9 on one memory button, and 2:35:1 on the other button. It's really cool when you have a widescreen movie playing when it's set to 16:9, then you hit the 2:35:1 memory button, and watch the widescreen image fill out the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Doesn't that cut off the sides of the screen?


----------



## ijansch

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



groggrog said:


> Doesn't that cut off the sides of the screen?




No, 16:9 content just leaves part of the screen untouched. 2.35:1 content fits perfectly: only the black bars get cut off (they project outside of the screen boundary). 

The black bars come from the fact that the projector still outputs 16:9 for 2.35 content. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

groggrog said:


> Doesn't that cut off the sides of the screen?


Yes, and that's why I did a painted screen on my entire wall. I get no bars when watching Scope material, and no loss on the sides when watching 16:9. I can't imagine having to keep putting masking up, and taking it down all the time, when switching aspect ratios. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

ijansch said:


> You wouldn’t have ‘projected bars’ like when you do it the other way round, but the parts of the screen where no light gets projected on might still be visible depending on ambient/stray light. Some people aren’t bothered by it, others add black masking.
> 
> I’m planning to add electric DIY masking that comes from the side, to give it a bit of cinematic effect. Example build thread with such masking: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-d...masking-system-somfy-motors.html#post23302970
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That is some masking build! Not an easy fix and looks very involved and costly...but so cool.


----------



## HTX^2steve

With the 5050UB projector does it suffer keystone effect when using lens shift feature or am I still stuck in the old'in days of projectors.


----------



## VideoDrone

biglen said:


> Correct. You'd hit the lens button, and set the 16:9 screen size you want, then lock it into one of the memories. Then do the same for your Scope image. You'll have the 16:9 on one memory button, and 2:35:1 on the other button. It's really cool when you have a widescreen movie playing when it's set to 16:9, then you hit the 2:35:1 memory button, and watch the widescreen image fill out the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I love my 2.35....as biglen says setup button one and two for 16:9 and 2.35 and then use the other setting for that funky netflix aspect ratio. I am sooooo glad I didnt by a 16:9 screen. I have manual curtains that I use for 16:9, and I love the setup. Takes no time to move them.


----------



## noob00224

HTX^2steve said:


> With the 5050UB projector does it suffer keystone effect when using lens shift feature or am I still stuck in the old'in days of projectors.


Keystone and lens shift are different.
Keystone is software, and should be avoided.
Lens shift is hardware, and can be used with little or no ill effect.


----------



## HTX^2steve

biglen said:


> Yes, and that's why I did a painted screen on my entire wall. I get no bars when watching Scope material, and no loss on the sides when watching 16:9. I can't imagine having to keep putting masking up, and taking it down all the time, when switching aspect ratios.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I believe this would be more of a visual description?


----------



## groggrog

biglen said:


> Yes, and that's why I did a painted screen on my entire wall. I get no bars when watching Scope material, and no loss on the sides when watching 16:9. I can't imagine having to keep putting masking up, and taking it down all the time, when switching aspect ratios.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Wishing I did the same but I got a framed screen, so don't have tolerance for spreading the image off screen.


----------



## Hawkmarket

pete ramberg said:


> Avengers:End Game is shot in 6.5K but the digital master is 2K.
> 
> Therein lies the problem: we fail to look at the source and spend too much time on the projector displaying the source!!
> 
> 2K masters, while upscaled on a UHD disc to 4K, are still 2K. With the pixel shifting only displaying 4 MP, there is little, if any, increase in RESOLUTION seen by our eyeballs. 2K upscaled to 8 MP, but displayed at 4 MP is going to look pretty much like 2K.
> 
> I think we need to be aware of the source resolution. Obviously, there's a whole lot more going on than just resolution too..


As follow up to this as I'm in my early observations of the 5050 I watched a few minutes of Planet Earth II streaming from Netflix on the X Box One X directly to the projector. That was the UHD "wow factor" I've heard about. 4K UHD discs from the X Box to my eyes don't really have much of a resolution bump but Netflix streaming the right content jumped off the screen. I was surprised that streaming content from the exact same device was so much more vivid and sharp than the UHD disc. The disc is fine, just didn't have that same wow factor to it. This just further confirms your point of how much the source matters and the projectors can only do so much magic on their own.


----------



## pete ramberg

YES!!!!!!

The Planet Earth series was shot and mastered in 4K - a pretty pure 4K source to use as a benchmark for image resolution.

I would think (hope?) that the resolution difference of a 1080p version of Planet Earth versus a 4K version would be seen on our beloved 5050UB.


Now you're talkin'!




Hawkmarket said:


> As follow up to this as I'm in my early observations of the 5050 I watched a few minutes of Planet Earth II streaming from Netflix on the X Box One X directly to the projector. That was the UHD "wow factor" I've heard about. 4K UHD discs from the X Box to my eyes don't really have much of a resolution bump but Netflix streaming the right content jumped off the screen. I was surprised that streaming content from the exact same device was so much more vivid and sharp than the UHD disc. The disc is fine, just didn't have that same wow factor to it. This just further confirms your point of how much the source matters and the projectors can only do so much magic on their own.


----------



## ijansch

groggrog said:


> Wishing I did the same but I got a framed screen, so don't have tolerance for spreading the image off screen.




If your frame is velvet covered it should be hardly noticeable as the frame would absorb most of the light. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## flashedvirus0

Josh Z said:


> One quick note on this. The 21:9 scaling features in the OPPO player are designed for use with a 1.33x anamorphic lens. Panamorph's current Paladin DCR lens has a different stretch factor since it's intended to be used on a projector with a 17:9 panel, such as Sony and JVC native 4k models.
> 
> 
> Because the Epson 5050 is a pixel-shifting model with a 1080p 16:9 panel, you'd want a 1.33x lens anyway, such as the regular Paladin (no DCR).


 @skylarlove1999 Thank you for all the information. Can you confirm that a panamorph DC-1 is a 1.33x lens? I seem to be having trouble finding that information.


----------



## skylarlove1999

flashedvirus0 said:


> @skylarlove1999 Thank you for all the information. Can you confirm that a panamorph DC-1 is a 1.33x lens? I seem to be having trouble finding that information.


I would send an email to panamorph customer service to ask. [email protected]

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

So I have been thinking (dangerous) I have a 120 inch diag fixed screen (see avatar pic) with the 5050UB would I be able to have a compromise hybrid masking screen by creating a top mask that is the height of both black bars and then using the Epson to lower the 2:35:1 image to the bottom of the masked screen?

Would you think that would look strange?


----------



## jeahrens

HTX^2steve said:


> So I have been thinking (dangerous) I have a 120 inch diag fixed screen (see avatar pic) with the 5050UB would I be able to have a compromise hybrid masking screen by creating a bottom mask that is the height of both bars and then using the Epson to lower the 2:35:1 image to the bottom of the masked screen?
> 
> Would you think that would look strange?


Just make sure you don't introduce an uncomfortable sight line. Don't want neck strain focusing on the center of the moved image.


----------



## HTX^2steve

jeahrens said:


> Just make sure you don't introduce an uncomfortable sight line. Don't want neck strain focusing on the center of the moved image.


I corrected my post...I meant a top mask and then lower the 2:35:1 image.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Doing a little lurking on other boards and ran across this nugget. Appears HarperVision has claimed to have found bigfoot. I'll just drop the link here and give all credit to HarperVision if this nut has indeed been cracked....at least affordably so. 


https://www.avforums.com/threads/do...0-conversion-w-dtm-on-projectors-yes.2254350/


----------



## DavidinGA

Hawkmarket said:


> Doing a little lurking on other boards and ran across this nugget. Appears HarperVision has claimed to have found bigfoot. I'll just drop the link here and give all credit to HarperVision if this nut has indeed been cracked....at least affordably so.
> 
> 
> https://www.avforums.com/threads/do...0-conversion-w-dtm-on-projectors-yes.2254350/


I saw that. Good for guys not able to do dtm for sure.

I'll stick with MadVR myself tho 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

HTX^2steve said:


> I corrected my post...I meant a top mask and then lower the 2:35:1 image.


I do think the only way this can be accomplished correctly is to wait until I get my 5050UB and then when mounted measure the width of the 2:35:1 letterboxing on the screen and double it and cut to measure. This should be interesting....


----------



## Hawkmarket

DavidinGA said:


> I saw that. Good for guys not able to do dtm for sure.
> 
> I'll stick with MadVR myself tho
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



I'm interested to see if this works out. Specifically when he mentioned there was even success with streaming such as Netflix.


----------



## marco1475

VideoDrone said:


> setup button one and two for 16:9 and 2.35 and then use the other setting for that funky netflix aspect ratio.


Could you explain the "funky Netflix aspect ratio?" Does Netflix stream in something other than 16:9 or 2.35:1?


----------



## jeahrens

marco1475 said:


> Could you explain the "funky Netflix aspect ratio?" Does Netflix stream in something other than 16:9 or 2.35:1?


Yes there is a fair amount of content that uses ARs like 2.00:1. There's a handy thread in the Constant Image Height forum detailing what show is in what AR:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/117-...t-tv-shows-wider-than-16-9-aspect-ratios.html

Also there are some feature films that use 2.00:1 like The Green Book and Jurassic World. There's also some that use 2.20:1.


----------



## rekbones

HTX^2steve said:


> I do think the only way this can be accomplished correctly is to wait until I get my 5050UB and then when mounted measure the width of the 2:35:1 letterboxing on the screen and double it and cut to measure. This should be interesting....


I use this Technic exclusively. I have a DIY built roller shade of black velvet drop down from the top of the screen. This way I can vary the screen to any AR instead of just 2:35.


----------



## biglen

VideoDrone said:


> I love my 2.35....as biglen says setup button one and two for 16:9 and 2.35 and then use the other setting for that funky netflix aspect ratio. I am sooooo glad I didnt by a 16:9 screen. I have manual curtains that I use for 16:9, and I love the setup. Takes no time to move them.


I only have 2 memory buttons for aspects. What button would be for the 3rd memory?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Josh Z

flashedvirus0 said:


> @*skylarlove1999* Thank you for all the information. Can you confirm that a panamorph DC-1 is a 1.33x lens? I seem to be having trouble finding that information.



I believe it was, but you should reach out to Panamorph customer service to confirm.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Josh Z said:


> I believe it was, but you should reach out to Panamorph customer service to confirm.


Thank you as always for following up @Josh Z 

It is greatly appreciated. I believe it was 1.33 as well. I thought I recalled something about it needing to be at a throw of 14 to 17 ft for optimal picture quality but I can't remember why.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

I am a new owner of an Epson 5050UB (2,600 lumens), upgrading from a Panasonic PT-AE8000U (2,400 lumens) purchased in 2014. I am loving the upgrade. Even completely uncalibrated in Digital Cinema mode with medium lamp it is still brighter than my old projector in Rec 709, and the colors and black levels... Wow. I'm still pulling my jaw off the floor I'm so amazed.

I have a quick question for other owners, some of you must have an Apple TV 4k.

Does anyone know why the Netflix App on my Apple TV 4k is showing the Dolby Vision icon for DV enabled titles, when clearly my projector doesn't support Dolby Vision? (NOTE: I am also getting the Dolby Atmos icon and my sound system is Atmos capable). I am running my Apple TV UI in 4kSDR (SDR because the UI is not optimized for HDR and looks washed out with HDR on). But I am using Match Dynamic Range and Match Framerate so it does engage the proper dynamic range and framerate when I start playback of a title. And I verify the bitstream in my projector info menu as 10-bit 4:2:2 HDR10.

The Netflix App on my Fire TV 4k shows either "HDR" or "4k Ultra HD" instead of "Vision" for the same titles, and it never shows the "Atmos" icon, only "5.1" because the Netflix app on Fire TV 4k doesn't support Atmos.

So why does the ATV4k show me, incorrectly, the "Vision" icon, but the FireTV4k properly shows the "HDR" or "4k Ultra HD" icon instead of "Vision"? I mean I'd love it if my projector was actually a Dolby Vision capable, but that's not possible right now for $3k.

I ask because I'd prefer to have the HDR10 native stream from Netflix instead of the DV stream cross-converted at the ATV4k to HDR10. I suspect that would bypass any DV to HDR10 cross-encoding glitches, and I've read about a ton of them in ATV4k threads.

I do have a Yamaha RX-A3070 AV receiver with an LG C8 65" OLED that is DV capable connected to HDMI1 out of the Yamaha, and the Epson 5050UB connected to the HDMI2 out if the Yamaha. I never use them both at once, it's either one or the other. Netflix on the Fire TV 4k will show the Dolby "Vision" icon when the LG is powered on but switches to the "HDR" icon when the projector is on. The ATV4k always just shows the "Vision" icon no matter which display is powered on. Maybe the ATV4k has "bonded" with the LG and is unaware the display was swapped out in the meantime? I've power-cycled the ATV4k, and still Netflix shows the Vision icon.

Thanks.

-J.C.


----------



## Alaric

"ISF memory, which can be accessed by certified ISF calibrators"
"because this will give you two more, "lockable" memory banks."

I just read the above and it's got me thinking.....Anyone know how to access these ???

Also how to access the Service Menu - Not sure there would be much useful, but you never know!

Ta,
Lee


----------



## skylarlove1999

Alaric said:


> "ISF memory, which can be accessed by certified ISF calibrators"
> 
> "because this will give you two more, "lockable" memory banks."
> 
> 
> 
> I just read the above and it's got me thinking.....Anyone know how to access these ???
> 
> 
> 
> Also how to access the Service Menu - Not sure there would be much useful, but you never know!
> 
> 
> 
> Ta,
> 
> Lee


Somewhere about 25% back up in this thread somebody posted how to access the service menu

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

dimi123 said:


> The sequence for the service menu should be the same as on the 5040/6040: press Menu for 8 seconds then Esc twice.


----------



## Alaric

HTX^2steve said:


>


Ok.....That works, gives some interesting info. Hitting the right key accesses more pages, Versions, odd code, error info, temp info, Signal Info and another log. Where there are multiple pages (signal) you can hit the down arrow for the next page!

Still wondering about that ISF memory though


----------



## Kelvin1000

rollon1980 said:


> There is no comparison to an OLED in pure picture quality but it’s only 65” and my projection is 100”. I find more enjoyment in watching movies at 100” sitting 2.5 meters away than doing it on a 65” OLED.
> 
> The only exception is Planet Earth II. Omg, looks amaaaaaaaaaazing on an OLED and needs to be seen there. 😉



I can attest to this. Hard to beat the LG OLED:


----------



## jch2

Kelvin1000 said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my post in the long HDMI 2.0 cables thread with the details of my problem:
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-...support-18gbps-hdmi-2-0b-45.html#post58714868
> 
> So, I'd love to hear, if you have a similar setup with both a 4k TV and a 5050UB and especially if you have both connected to a Yamaha receiver and a long run to your projector, what cable you are using.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> -J.C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had some random handshake issues with various sources when I was using a fiber optic cables which went away completely when I switched to this Blue Jeans Series-3A Active HDMI Cable:
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/series3a.htm
> 
> This active cable has been absolutely flawless at 40 feet with 4K HDR 60FPS 4:4:4 and every other resolution I have thrown at it.
> 
> Definitely worth the purchase!
Click to expand...

I just got the BJC 40' Series-3A active cable. It works just like the active fiber cables in my setup: passes high bandwidth signals just fine but is also experiencing the same issues with the LG TV on and Epson 5050UB in standby. The Yamaha RX-A3070 syncs to the LG TV on HDMI1 out and I get picture and audio, but the HDMI2 out light flashes for a minute (like it is trying to communicate through the active cable to the projector in standby) and then the entire HDMI chain fails and all the indicator lights on the reciever go dark and I lose audio and video on the LG TV. It says dark for about a minute, resyncs, and the process starts over.

Again, the passive 50' cable doesn't do this, but it also can't pass the high bandwidth video modes.

So, next think I'm going to try is a 5v HDMI power inserter (what RUIPRO support recommended). They said try it at both the source and display end of the cable and see if either works.

If that doesn't work, I'll try using an external splitter/switch and and bypass the one in the Yamaha receiver.

If that doesn't work, I'll try an HDBaseT solution, but I'm not fond of those because they employ compression to compress the 18gpbs signals down to the 10.2gbps that the HDBaseT link supports over CAT 6.

Can anyone think if anything else I could try? 

Does anyone use a Yamaha AV receiver and both HDMI outputs (HDMI1 out to TV and HDMI2 out over some long HDMI cable to their Epson 5050UB)? If so, what cable are you using?

Thanks.

-J.C.


----------



## Kelvin1000

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



jch2 said:


> I just got the BJC 40' Series-3A active cable. It works just like the active fiber cables in my setup: passes high bandwidth signals just fine but is also experiencing the same issues with the LG TV on and Epson 5050UB in standby. The Yamaha RX-A3070 syncs to the LG TV on HDMI1 out and I get picture and audio, but the HDMI2 out light flashes for a minute (like it is trying to communicate through the active cable to the projector in standby) and then the entire HDMI chain fails and all the indicator lights on the reciever go dark and I lose audio and video on the LG TV. It says dark for about a minute, resyncs, and the process starts over.
> 
> Again, the passive 50' cable doesn't do this, but it also can't pass the high bandwidth video modes.
> 
> So, next think I'm going to try is a 5v HDMI power inserter (what RUIPRO support recommended). They said try it at both the source and display end of the cable and see if either works.
> 
> If that doesn't work, I'll try using an external splitter/switch and and bypass the one in the Yamaha receiver.
> 
> If that doesn't work, I'll try an HDBaseT solution, but I'm not fond of those because they employ compression to compress the 18gpbs signals down to the 10.2gbps that the HDBaseT link supports over CAT 6.
> 
> Can anyone think if anything else I could try?
> 
> Does anyone use a Yamaha AV receiver and both HDMI outputs (HDMI1 out to TV and HDMI2 out over some long HDMI cable to their Epson 5050UB)? If so, what cable are you using?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -J.C.



Leave the BJC active cable and reset all settings on the projector (this will refresh the HDMI handshake with the various input devices).

Reset the video settings in all the various sources if possible.

If that doesn’t work, turn off HDMI Link/CEC on the projector and the receiver.

Hope this helps!


----------



## HTX^2steve

Is it correct to say that lens shift on the 5050UB has no effects or degrading with repects to the projected image?


----------



## jeahrens

HTX^2steve said:


> Is it correct to say that lens shift on the 5050UB has no effects or degrading with repects to the projected image?


As a general rule of thumb, lens shift will usually only cause picture issues at the very edge of it's limit. With what you're trying to do with masking shouldn't cause a problem.


----------



## jch2

Kelvin1000 said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just got the BJC 40' Series-3A active cable. It works just like the active fiber cables in my setup: passes high bandwidth signals just fine but is also experiencing the same issues with the LG TV on and Epson 5050UB in standby.
> 
> 
> 
> Leave the BJC active cable and reset all settings on the projector (this will refresh the HDMI handshake with the various input devices).
> 
> Reset the video settings in all the various sources if possible.
> 
> If that doesnâ€™️t work, turn off HDMI Link/CEC on the projector and the receiver.
> 
> Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

I've previously reset all the settings in the projector (unfortunately it is menu by menu instead of a factory reset for all settings). No change.

I've previously changed my sources' video resolutions around. The problem happens on all four sources, so I don't think it is source related.

I've previously toggled CEC on the projector on and off, same problem. I can't turn CEC off on the Yamaha or ARC fails from the LG TV.

None of the suggestions helped, but thank you very much for replying.

-J C.


----------



## HTX^2steve

I am prepping for my 5050UB arrival if I can get a good deal on the PJ around the holidays. I love how retailers jack the price up to the $3k price so it appears to be a great deal when they reduce the price around the holidays when I could have got this projector in Aug when it was at $2700. Just possibly I can get the PJ below $2700 with some holiday package dealy thing.

So let the holiday games begin!

With respects to the lens shift and this projector I will be making a DIY top mask that will be double the height of the 2:35:1 bars (because my screen is hung from the 10ft ceiling) and use the lens memory to bring the image down to fill the screen for the 2:35:1 content. Then I was thinking with the lens shift feature I wouldn't need a crazy 3 foot ceiling drop mount and keep it higher and not that much an eye sore then it already is. (being white and the size of a small dorm fridge!)


----------



## tomtoo

jch2 said:


> I am a new owner of an Epson 5050UB (2,600 lumens), upgrading from a Panasonic PT-AE8000U (2,400 lumens) purchased in 2014. I am loving the upgrade. Even completely uncalibrated in Digital Cinema mode with medium lamp it is still brighter than my old projector in Rec 709, and the colors and black levels... Wow. I'm still pulling my jaw off the floor I'm so amazed.
> 
> I have a quick question for other owners, some of you must have an Apple TV 4k.
> 
> Does anyone know why the Netflix App on my Apple TV 4k is showing the Dolby Vision icon for DV enabled titles, when clearly my projector doesn't support Dolby Vision? (NOTE: I am also getting the Dolby Atmos icon and my sound system is Atmos capable). I am running my Apple TV UI in 4kSDR (SDR because the UI is not optimized for HDR and looks washed out with HDR on). But I am using Match Dynamic Range and Match Framerate so it does engage the proper dynamic range and framerate when I start playback of a title. And I verify the bitstream in my projector info menu as 10-bit 4:2:2 HDR10.
> 
> The Netflix App on my Fire TV 4k shows either "HDR" or "4k Ultra HD" instead of "Vision" for the same titles, and it never shows the "Atmos" icon, only "5.1" because the Netflix app on Fire TV 4k doesn't support Atmos.
> 
> So why does the ATV4k show me, incorrectly, the "Vision" icon, but the FireTV4k properly shows the "HDR" or "4k Ultra HD" icon instead of "Vision"? I mean I'd love it if my projector was actually a Dolby Vision capable, but that's not possible right now for $3k.
> 
> I ask because I'd prefer to have the HDR10 native stream from Netflix instead of the DV stream cross-converted at the ATV4k to HDR10. I suspect that would bypass any DV to HDR10 cross-encoding glitches, and I've read about a ton of them in ATV4k threads.
> 
> I do have a Yamaha RX-A3070 AV receiver with an LG C8 65" OLED that is DV capable connected to HDMI1 out of the Yamaha, and the Epson 5050UB connected to the HDMI2 out if the Yamaha. I never use them both at once, it's either one or the other. Netflix on the Fire TV 4k will show the Dolby "Vision" icon when the LG is powered on but switches to the "HDR" icon when the projector is on. The ATV4k always just shows the "Vision" icon no matter which display is powered on. Maybe the ATV4k has "bonded" with the LG and is unaware the display was swapped out in the meantime? I've power-cycled the ATV4k, and still Netflix shows the Vision icon.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -J.C.


I have been enjoying a PT-AE8000 for years too and it's time for me to get the Epson 5050U as well. Glad to hear that it's going to be that drastic of an unpgrade. If you can please provide a few more specifics about the differences. I have a light controlled room with 133" 16:9 Da-Lite Screen 15 ft from projector, and instend to get a new snap in HD .9 or 1.1 screen for it. 
Also, can you or anyone else tell me the optimal set up for hdmi cable (30ft run), and also the best streaming device currenly available? Have 200MB internet speed, and dont want to have to own numerous devices to keep switching between. Right now I just use directv and ps4 pro for all viewing sources. THanks JCH and anyone else who has impressions.


----------



## skylarlove1999

tomtoo said:


> I have been enjoying a PT-AE8000 for years too and it's time for me to get the Epson 5050U as well. Glad to hear that it's going to be that drastic of an unpgrade. If you can please provide a few more specifics about the differences. I have a light controlled room with 133" 16:9 Da-Lite Screen 15 ft from projector, and instend to get a new snap in HD .9 or 1.1 screen for it.
> 
> Also, can you or anyone else tell me the optimal set up for hdmi cable (30ft run), and also the best streaming device currenly available? Have 200MB internet speed, and dont want to have to own numerous devices to keep switching between. Right now I just use directv and ps4 pro for all viewing sources. THanks JCH and anyone else who has impressions.


I would a little while for reviews on this media player. Comes out October 28th. People love their current Nvidia Shield. This will be a new model.

https://troypoint.com/nvidia-shield-tv-pro/



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kelvin1000

jch2 said:


> I've previously reset all the settings in the projector (unfortunately it is menu by menu instead of a factory reset for all settings). No change.
> 
> I've previously changed my sources' video resolutions around. The problem happens on all four sources, so I don't think it is source related.
> 
> I've previously toggled CEC on the projector on and off, same problem. I can't turn CEC off on the Yamaha or ARC fails from the LG TV.
> 
> None of the suggestions helped, but thank you very much for replying.
> 
> -J C.




Have you bypassed the receiver and connected the projector straight to the sources?


----------



## jch2

Kelvin1000 said:


> Have you bypassed the receiver and connected the projector straight to the sources?


Thanks for taking an interest in my issue. I appreciate the reply!

Yeah, that works fine, except the 50' passive cable still doesn't do high bandwidth 4k modes (as expected).

But I think you must not be understanding my problem. My problem is with using the dual HDMI outputs (i.e. built-in HDMI splitter) of the Yamaha RX-A3070 AVR and needing an active HDMI cable on HDMI out 2 to reach 40' to the projector so I can get high bandwidth 4k HDR modes to it. So, bypassing the AVR doesn't help solve the problem or provide me any useful information. Am I missing something?

I have more data points. Tried another active solution (passive cable plus HDMI repeater and also tried my old projector, a Panasonic PT-AE8000U). Using an HDMI repeater on the passive cable also causes the AVR to have sync issues with HDMI out 2 when the projector is in standby and the TV is on (i.e. just trying to watch TV with projector off), just like the active copper and fiber cables. Also, using my old projector ALSO causes the issue with all four active HDMI solutions. So, I've ruled out the projector. It's a combination of the Yamaha HDMI splitter's implementation when talking over HDMI out 1 to a TV that is on and trying to talk over HDMI out 2 over an active HDMI cable to a device that has power (i.e. is plugged into the wall) but is in standby mode.

See more details of my updated testing here:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-r...a-rx-v675-hdmi-out-blinking.html#post58733764

I've got an email into Yamaha and will post an update when I hear from them.

-J.C.


----------



## rekbones

jch2 said:


> Thanks for taking an interest in my issue. I appreciate the reply!
> 
> Yeah, that works fine, except the 50' passive cable still doesn't do high bandwidth 4k modes (as expected).
> 
> But I think you must not be understanding my problem. My problem is with using the dual HDMI outputs (i.e. built-in HDMI splitter) of the Yamaha RX-A3070 AVR and needing an active HDMI cable on HDMI out 2 to reach 40' to the projector so I can get high bandwidth 4k HDR modes to it. So, bypassing the AVR doesn't help solve the problem or provide me any useful information. Am I missing something?
> 
> I have more data points. Tried another active solution (passive cable plus HDMI repeater and also tried my old projector, a Panasonic PT-AE8000U). Using an HDMI repeater on the passive cable also causes the AVR to have sync issues with HDMI out 2 when the projector is in standby and the TV is on (i.e. just trying to watch TV with projector off), just like the active copper and fiber cables. Also, using my old projector ALSO causes the issue with all four active HDMI solutions. So, I've ruled out the projector. It's a combination of the Yamaha HDMI splitter's implementation when talking over HDMI out 1 to a TV that is on and trying to talk over HDMI out 2 over an active HDMI cable to a device that has power (i.e. is plugged into the wall) but is in standby mode.
> 
> See more details of my updated testing here:
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-r...a-rx-v675-hdmi-out-blinking.html#post58733764
> 
> I've got an email into Yamaha and will post an update when I hear from them.
> 
> -J.C.


I suspect it's the two conflicting EDID signals that are causing all your issues. Something like an HDfury splitter that generates its own EDID should cure your issues but a rather expensive solution.


----------



## jch2

rekbones said:


> I suspect it's the two conflicting EDID signals that are causing all your issues. Something like an HDfury splitter that generates its own EDID should cure your issues but a rather expensive solution.


I don't agree. Everything works just fine with both units on, and I get mirroring at 4k60 HDR10 12-bit 4:2:0 and 4:2:2. Of course, with them both on I don't get Dolby Vision support (only LG TV has that), but once the projector is off I get DV to the TV. So, the Yamaha seems to do a good job of negotiating EDIDs between everything. When only one display is on, the source sees the EDID of just that display. When both displays are on, the EDID appears to be customized to include only modes both displays have in common. Of course, AVRs are in the business of customizing the EDIDs of the connected display(s) since they override the audio portion of the EDID and substitute their own capability.

The EDIDs would have no bearing in the situation I am seeing though, since one display (TV) is on, and the other (projector) is in standby. So, the Yamaha should, in that case, not care about the projector's EDID.

What I'm seeing though, when an active HDMI solution is in place and projector in standby, the AVR doesn't seem to see the projector as in standby until I pull the projector's power plug or disconnect it's HDMI connection to the AVR. Since the AVR doesn't see the display as in standby it tries to sync with it, but it can't since it is in standby mode. The active HDMI solutions seem to be interfering with the AVR's ability to recognize the connected display being in standby mode. So, either the active solutions are all out of spec with HDMI (which they could be since HDMI doesn't specify how active solutions should behave) or the AVR is out if spec and misinterpreting something all the active solutions are doing which makes the AVR see a display in standby instead as an active display.


----------



## Luminated67

^Why would you have both the PJ and TV on at the same time?


----------



## jch2

Luminated67 said:


> Why would you have both the PJ and TV on at the same time?


Great question! I actually have three dual-display setups, each with different use cases.

In my main floor great room normally I don't. Normally I just use the TV when the sun is up and projector at dusk and later. Remember though, the problem I am experiencing is not when both displays are on, but rather when the TV is on and the projector has electrical power but is in standby mode.

But, in my main floor great room, I do run both at the same time when debugging problems and testing. For example, setting the display resolution and chroma on the Apple TV 4k or setting the resolution and bit depth on the Fire TV Stick 4k. When I was having issues with long passive cables to the projector and higher bandwidth modes, I could see the UI on the TV because it has a short cable, but the projector, over it's long passive cable, would just be black or would have portions of the screen flashing white snow. So, I could peer behind the projector's drop-down screen and drive the UI on the TV where I could actually see the UI until I could set a mode that worked without issues on the projector that my passive HDMI cable could handle. FYI, the best the 50' passive could do was 4k60 8-bit 4:2:0, which is about 8.91gbps.

In my master suite, I mirror two TVs, one in the master bedroom across a 12' passive cable, and one in the master bath, across a 30' passive cable. In the morning both TVs are often running at the same time. This has a 4k HDR TV in the bedroom, but only a 1080p TV in the bathroom. So if both displays are on, output is limited to 1080p SDR. But if the bathroom TV is off I get 4k HDR and Dolby Vision in the bedroom TV. Once I upgrade the bathroom to a 4k HDR TV, I'll need an active cable and have the same issue there.

In my downstairs entertainment area, I have a theater area with a projector and an adjoining bar area that faces away from the projector screen so it has its own TV. For big events, like the Superbowl, I run both displays simultaneously mirrored. That room is only 1080p for now, but I will eventually upgrade to 4k HDR and I will have the same problem there with needing active cables for long HDMI 4k HDR runs. And it may even be worse as both HDMI cable runs are long.

And yes, three theater setups. I know, that's a lot! I am a hobbyist, and also an enthusiast, and I've been collecting equipment and in the hobby for 35 years. And I only post my problems here on AVSForum very rarely, when I'm usually stuck with a very hard problem. Hopefully, sharing my hard problems (and eventually the solutions) helps others in the future.

Does that answer your question?

-J.C.


----------



## Fast GTO

Anyone get occasional clicking noises from the 5050UB?


----------



## amdar

Watching 4K movies in Panasonic UB820, the picture quality is outstanding. 
But when i watch the 1080P Blu-Ray moves, i see lot of film grain. Screen to MLP is 10ft distance. When i reconnect the same setup to LG OLED 65inch TV, the picture is clear. 

Do i need to adjust any settings in the projector for 1080P contents?


----------



## HTX^2steve

Fast GTO said:


> Anyone get occasional clicking noises from the 5050UB?


That can't be good...Like loud clicking noises or low? I know on my pany the dynamic iris makes these clicking noises. Not sure how the 5050 handles that.


----------



## dazz87

Planning on getting 5050 to replace my Benq 1070. Just got a new screen and it looks like my benq is having a difficult time putting up a bright image onto this screen. Ready to move on from the benq. Quick question is the free bulb still available for 5050 (rebate)? Just saw that the price has dropped $200.00 off retail and maybe its a good time to purchase it now.


----------



## HTX^2steve

dazz87 said:


> Planning on getting 5050 to replace my Benq 1070. Just got a new screen and it looks like my benq is having a difficult time putting up a bright image onto this screen. Ready to move on from the benq. Quick question is the free bulb still available for 5050 (rebate)? Just saw that the price has dropped $200.00 off retail and maybe its a good time to purchase it now.


Dazz...you and I are in the same boat. I am tracking like 8 websites with prices. I am holding out when the "stores" compete with each other and offer something for dropping $2500 bucks on a product. The bulb is nice but not what I am waiting for. I would need something like "show me da money!"


----------



## jeahrens

amdar said:


> Watching 4K movies in Panasonic UB820, the picture quality is outstanding.
> But when i watch the 1080P Blu-Ray moves, i see lot of film grain. Screen to MLP is 10ft distance. When i reconnect the same setup to LG OLED 65inch TV, the picture is clear.
> 
> Do i need to adjust any settings in the projector for 1080P contents?


First you need to determine is the grain supposed to be there or not? If it is then either the LG is just removing it with excessive noise reduction (which will also scrub fine detail) or it may be less prevalent because you're viewing a much smaller picture and not noticing it. Grain is a natural byproduct of film and not a bad thing. If the grain is actually picture noise and not supposed to be there, then you need to look at the picture controls on the Epson. Something like sharpness may be set to high.


----------



## dazz87

HTX^2steve said:


> Dazz...you and I are in the same boat. I am tracking like 8 websites with prices. I am holding out when the "stores" compete with each other and offer something for dropping $2500 bucks on a product. The bulb is nice but not what I am waiting for. I would need something like "show me da money!"


Same here being checking this thread and other sites for the pricing on this projector and other info. I would'nt mind a refurbished of 5050 (like the 5040) for about 2k..... but i dont know if thats even possible (5050 was just release earlier this year) if they will offer a refurbished soon. Was going to get it at bestbuy cause they offer a 24 months no %. I also saw that their Geek squad protection plan offer a one time bulb replacement. The warranty is $375.00 for 2 years. I never thought about a geek squad warranty but reading that they will replace the bulb for you does not sound all that bad.


----------



## amdar

Thanks for info. I have played few HD contents from Apple TV and Roku. I do not see the grains. But when i watch the blu-ray disc in Panny UB820 i see excess of grains. Could it be upscaling issue as both Panny and Epson upscaling the 1080P to 4K? 



jeahrens said:


> First you need to determine is the grain supposed to be there or not? If it is then either the LG is just removing it with excessive noise reduction (which will also scrub fine detail) or it may be less prevalent because you're viewing a much smaller picture and not noticing it. Grain is a natural byproduct of film and not a bad thing. If the grain is actually picture noise and not supposed to be there, then you need to look at the picture controls on the Epson. Something like sharpness may be set to high.


----------



## skylarlove1999

amdar said:


> Thanks for info. I have played few HD contents from Apple TV and Roku. I do not see the grains. But when i watch the blu-ray disc in Panny UB820 i see excess of grains. Could it be upscaling issue as both Panny and Epson upscaling the 1080P to 4K?


I think the grain is just more pronounced when you upscale a bluray to 4k. The additional resolution that upscaling provides enhances all the details which includes film grain. If you are having the player do the upscaling than the 5050 is not doing any upscaling since you are sending the projector a 4K signal. It is just pixel shifting to optimize the image for the 4K content it is receiving. You could try turning off the upscaling in the player and then the 5050 would recognize it it receiving a 1080 signal and then the projector could upscale it to 4K if you desire to do so. Maybe you would like the image better. My guess is it won't be much different to your eyes. You probably just don't enjoy film grain. Not everyone does.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## amdar

Thanks for the suggestion. I will try disabling the player upscale settings. Lets see if i like the picture quality. 



skylarlove1999 said:


> I think the grain is just more pronounced when you upscale a bluray to 4k. The additional resolution that upscaling provides enhances all the details which includes film grain. If you are having the player do the upscaling than the 5050 is not doing any upscaling since you are sending the projector a 4K signal. It is just pixel shifting to optimize the image for the 4K content it is receiving. You could try turning off the upscaling in the player and then the 5050 would recognize it it receiving a 1080 signal and then the projector could upscale it to 4K if you desire to do so. Maybe you would like the image better. My guess is it won't be much different to your eyes. You probably just don't enjoy film grain. Not everyone does.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

Another possibility is that streaming is much more compressed and lacks the bandwidth to show the fine detail and grain (Blu Ray doesn't suffer here). Also grain is not consistent. It's wholly dependent on what film stock a film was shot on. 

Watch Blade Runner ('82). The scenes with the actors were shot on conventional 35mm, there is moderate visible grain. The effects shots were shot on 70mm and exhibit almost no grain. Again grain isn't bad. That you can see it means the media is up to capturing all the detail and your display is up to showing it.


----------



## asolor78

rollon1980 said:


> ameer said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. I calibrated Dynamic for HDR as follows (including gamma)
> 
> 
> 
> This is my best HDR-like calibration. Sure it may not be as accurate as calibrating Natural or Digital Cinema but the errors are not visible and it delivers the most brightness. For Xbox HDR gaming especially, it looks awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> Can you please share your exact settings, I used the calibration data on projectorreviews.com (on digital cinema & natural) and it does make difference with me (positively)
> It will be interesting to check your take on Dynamic mode.
> 
> 
> 
> DavidinGA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Which image do you prefer?
> 
> On my phone it looks like "disabled" looks better.
> 
> Disabled looks like it has more depth and enabled is more flat looking (again, on my phone lol).
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, I like the disabled more, it really make difference especially in dark scenes, HDR mode -as you said- more flat!
> Also the HDR highlights between dark and bright spots is really remarkable and has its wow factor with madvr + disabled HDR on windows/projector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I’ll copy them out when I get some alone time with the projector - and remote - likely closer to the weekend.
Click to expand...

Hey @rollon1980 any chance you can share your calibration settings?, noticed that image of Jurassic fallen kingdom..and reading into ur changes got me wondering if i can get more spectral highlights.


----------



## QCarb

Hey everyone.

I'm sorry if this was mentioned but the forum's search function is giving me error pages right now. Could someone tell me what the distance between the two adjustable feet is? 

My shelf is 42cm wide and I feel they might be so far apart the PJ would lie on its belly (actually I usually need PJ's butt to be lifted, not the top).

Thanks!


----------



## amdar

Great point. 

Looks like the issue could be with the Panny 820 setup. The HDR TV Type setting in UB820 was set to OLED TV. I changed the settings to 3rd option "Projector". Less film grain and the picture quality is excellent now. 



jeahrens said:


> Another possibility is that streaming is much more compressed and lacks the bandwidth to show the fine detail and grain (Blu Ray doesn't suffer here). Also grain is not consistent. It's wholly dependent on what film stock a film was shot on.
> 
> Watch Blade Runner ('82). The scenes with the actors were shot on conventional 35mm, there is moderate visible grain. The effects shots were shot on 70mm and exhibit almost no grain. Again grain isn't bad. That you can see it means the media is up to capturing all the detail and your display is up to showing it.


----------



## weaselorlando

Looking at replacing my old Infocus 7200 (originally purchased in 2004) that died a few years ago. I still have my Da-lite HCVC dropdown screen. I believe it is a 1.1 gain. I am not looking to replace the screen. Any opinions of how the 6050 will match up with this screen?
Thanks

Rich


----------



## skylarlove1999

UPDATE: It appears the issue with UHD playback on VUDU on the Nvidia Shield has been resolved.


https://www.androidheadlines.com/2019/10/vudu-4k-nvidia-shield-android-tv-fix.html


Anyone using a Nvidia Shield, can you please tell me if you are still limited to HDX viewing on VUDU? For anyone interested , here is the issue:

https://9to5google.com/2019/09/09/nvidia-shield-tv-4k-broken-issue/
@ckronengold you are my go to expert on the Nvidia Shield. Haven't bought one yet but thinking about pulling the trigger on the new 2010 Nvidia Shield TV.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

skylarlove1999 said:


> UPDATE: It appears the issue with UHD playback on VUDU on the Nvidia Shield has been resolved.
> 
> 
> https://www.androidheadlines.com/2019/10/vudu-4k-nvidia-shield-android-tv-fix.html
> 
> 
> Anyone using a Nvidia Shield, can you please tell me if you are still limited to HDX viewing on VUDU? For anyone interested , here is the issue:
> 
> https://9to5google.com/2019/09/09/nvidia-shield-tv-4k-broken-issue/
> @ckronengold you are my go to expert on the Nvidia Shield. Haven't bought one yet but thinking about pulling the trigger on the new 2010 Nvidia Shield TV.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


To the best of my knowledge, all of the issues have been resolved. I can check Vudu specifically tonight if you like, but I rarely use it. Its more of my default service / locker for digital codes.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> To the best of my knowledge, all of the issues have been resolved. I can check Vudu specifically tonight if you like, but I rarely use it. Its more of my default service / locker for digital codes.[/quote @ckronengold thanks for the quick reply buddy. The issue has now been resolved. Thanks again.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## QCarb

QCarb said:


> Hey everyone.
> 
> I'm sorry if this was mentioned but the forum's search function is giving me error pages right now. Could someone tell me what the distance between the two adjustable feet is?
> 
> My shelf is 42cm wide and I feel they might be so far apart the PJ would lie on its belly (actually I usually need PJ's butt to be lifted, not the top).
> 
> Thanks!


Sorry to bump this, but I've browsed many sites and couldn't find, so far, how far apart are the front feet of the projector. If one of you owner could tell me, I would be immensely grateful! Thanks.


----------



## fredworld

qcarb said:


> sorry to bump this, but i've browsed many sites and couldn't find, so far, how far apart are the front feet of the projector. If one of you owner could tell me, i would be immensely grateful! Thanks.



18 1/4"-18 3/8"


----------



## QCarb

fredworld said:


> 18 1/4"-18 3/8"


Thanks a lot Fredworld! While I'm translating this in good old European metric measures, I wanted to confirm this was indeed the measure between the two front feet like showed on my beautiful picture below. Thank you


----------



## fredworld

QCarb said:


> Thanks a lot Fredworld! While I'm translating this in good old European metric measures, I wanted to confirm this was indeed the measure between the two front feet like showed on my beautiful picture below. Thank you



Yep. It might be 1/8" +/- or so off as it was difficult to hold my phone and take the picture with one hand and the tape measure with the other. Good luck.


----------



## Boschpants

So does anybody have the low droning or humming from the projector? It's not even fans but maybe it's the power supply/transformer inside?


----------



## QCarb

fredworld said:


> Yep. It might be 1/8" +/- or so off as it was difficult to hold my phone and take the picture with one hand and the tape measure with the other. Good luck.


Wonderful, thanks a lot.


----------



## rollon1980

Ok guys, here are the settings as promised. This aims to maximise the brightness as much as possible for those highlights however it is less accurate. But the errors are left for those highlights where you are unlikely to notice them! 

You need to let the lamp warm up for 5mins. It can look a little off until that happens. 

Please note my room is not ideal at the moment as we are waiting for the new house / home cinema. I use this setting for both movies and games right now and not aiming for ultimate accuracy. 
However, your mileage may vary! 

Picture mode: Dynamic
Colour temp: 6
Skin tone: 4
Custom: change green gain to 40
Rest at default. 

Greyscale (only showing custom values, everything else default):
4: red -5, Green 0, Blue -5
3: red -5, Green 0, Blue -7
2: red -3, Green 0, Blue -7

Gamma: custom. everything at 0 except for the second from the bottom gamma point being at -4!

You can use the same gamut (RGBCMY) settings you use for Natural picture mode. However I’ll say that very little improvement can be done to the gamut for BT2020 without the filter. If at a loss, you can use the settings from projector reviews or lower brightness of all colours to 45 at the very least so they don’t cut below 1000nits. 

HDR10 setting at 8 or as required by movie / source. 

Lamp: High
Dynamic Iris: High Speed

Enjoy!


----------



## hemo cave

Hi,

I do hope this helps someone, My Epson TW9300 / 5040ub stopped working, when i press it the lights continue to blink blue, no image is displayed and then the fan started to go full speed and nothing you could do about it unless you unplug it from the mains, i went to the local store and told me you need to replace the mother board but its out of warranty so i was left with either a huge bill to fix it or just buy a new one, A friend of mine told me to try and change the lamp, so i bought a new lamp and i swapped it with the old one .... IT WORKS. 

Iam not sure why this is not in any forms cause i looked for over a month with no results so if you have my issue please try to replace your lamp. I have made a youtube video on that if you would like to see.

Thank you.


----------



## skylarlove1999

hemo cave said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> I do hope this helps someone, My Epson TW9300 / 5040ub stopped working, when i press it the lights continue to blink blue, no image is displayed and then the fan started to go full speed and nothing you could do about it unless you unplug it from the mains, i went to the local store and told me you need to replace the mother board but its out of warranty so i was left with either a huge bill to fix it or just buy a new one, A friend of mine told me to try and change the lamp, so i bought a new lamp and i swapped it with the old one .... IT WORKS.
> 
> 
> 
> Iam not sure why this is not in any forms cause i looked for over a month with no results so if you have my issue please try to replace your lamp. I have made a youtube video on that if you would like to see.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lvwlhhnKXs


Thanks for posting. Very kind of you to share.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

Boschpants said:


> So does anybody have the low droning or humming from the projector? It's not even fans but maybe it's the power supply/transformer inside?


Some say you can hear the faux K working. Do you here still hear the sound when watching 1080 P without 4K enhancement on?


----------



## crazyhog

comtemplating on buying 6050 and i cant find re: auto switch between HDR and SDR wc is an isaue on 4010.. does, epson 6050, do autoswich when it detect the signal? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## crazyhog

hemo cave said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> I do hope this helps someone, My Epson TW9300 / 5040ub stopped working, when i press it the lights continue to blink blue, no image is displayed and then the fan started to go full speed and nothing you could do about it unless you unplug it from the mains, i went to the local store and told me you need to replace the mother board but its out of warranty so i was left with either a huge bill to fix it or just buy a new one, A friend of mine told me to try and change the lamp, so i bought a new lamp and i swapped it with the old one .... IT WORKS.
> 
> 
> 
> Iam not sure why this is not in any forms cause i looked for over a month with no results so if you have my issue please try to replace your lamp. I have made a youtube video on that if you would like to see.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lvwlhhnKXs




how many hours on ur lamp before the replacement? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

crazyhog said:


> comtemplating on buying 6050 and i cant find re: auto switch between HDR and SDR wc is an isaue on 4010.. does, epson 6050, do autoswich when it detect the signal?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


There isn't any Epson projector that changes picture modes when the HDR signal is detected. You have to switch picture modes based upon content. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## crazyhog

skylarlove1999 said:


> There isn't any Epson projector that changes picture modes when the HDR signal is detected. You have to switch picture modes based upon content.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Thanks sir for the fast reply. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## yenal

Did anyone compare Epson 4010 and 5050ub in a room without light control? I have white ceilings/beige walls. There are 2 windows and a large french door with no curtains. The kitchen window and french door will be behind the projector thus no direct light will hit from those directions. The other window is also blocked by a separating wall which means there is no direct light from that source as well. But there will definitely be some ambient light scattering around due to beige walls and white cathedral ceiling so it won't be completely dark.

Obviously 5050ub will be slightly better during day-light viewing but I assume the difference will be negligible. What I care is night time viewing and whether the huge price difference is worth it considering my room conditions.

Thank you.


----------



## amdar

My epson 5050UB projector is going to power off mode while watching a movie. when i turn on the power the blue light is keep blinking for few mins and no image when blu light blinking. It happened three times while watching a movie. Any one had similar issue and any recommendations?


----------



## jch2

crazyhog said:


> comtemplating on buying 6050 and i cant find re: auto switch between HDR and SDR wc is an isaue on 4010.. does, epson 6050, do autoswich when it detect the signal?


Depends on what you mean by autoswitch. Yes, the Epson 5050UB/6050UB (when set on Auto Dynamic Range) will automatically detect SDR vs HDR and go into the appropriate display mode. You don't have to switch it.

However, it won't automatically change color modes. Say you've calibrated Natural for optimal SDR viewing and Digital Cinema for optimal HDR viewing. There's no way to tell the Epson which mode is preferred for what dynamic range, so it just stays in whatever color mode you have it when it switches between SDR and HDR. You have to change the color mode manually.


----------



## eta1345

I finally got my 6050 in last week and will hopefully get it installed tomorrow. Still waiting on my SI screen to ship but that should be this week too. I have a old screen that I am going to set up though until then. I will post up pics of the progress tomorrow. This thread has been beyond helpful.


----------



## Shinji Mikami

Hi guys. I'd like to know if anybody could tell me how many real peak nits offer this Epson 5050UB/TW9400 in a dedicated room, please.

And if anybody have settings for a dedicated room too. Thank you !!!


----------



## HTX^2steve

I had a chance with some down time while traveling for work and I went to a Best Buy Magnolia store to see the 5050UB in person and on display! I talked to a couple of people who said talk to this person who is our "go to" guy with everything technical. I am in the room and looking at the projector playing a movie and ya'll were right! What a big difference with the projector I currently have. 

I ask the guy could you show me some different aspect ratios on the projector? He said ok and while he is doing this I ask him what is the native aspect ratio for this movie? He tells me 4:3...That is where our conversation ended and I took it upon myself to look and observe this nice projector. 

The lens quality is much better from my 2005 projector that now I see suffers from a pincushion artifact. Even with this projector mounted to the ceiling the vertical throw was impressive and I couldn't see any lens distortion. 

One thing that this "expert" did know was prices (typical sales guy) he thinks that the price isn't going to drop even with the holidays. I asked him so what is the current price. He says 3k. Then I knew I should end all conversations and just enjoy the movie that was on the screen. 

One thing that I would like to ask the experts in the room...I notice with when watching any 1080p and up resolution, I see when looking at a scene a "catching up" like effect. What I mean is for example, when looking at a face on the screen and it move ever so slightly it appears to be very very slightly blurry and then it catches up and then the face becomes clear. I know there is a name to this type of effect that I am seeing on the screen...anyone know what that might be?


----------



## noob00224

HTX^2steve said:


> One thing that I would like to ask the experts in the room...I notice with when watching any 1080p and up resolution, I see when looking at a scene a "catching up" like effect. What I mean is for example, when looking at a face on the screen and it move ever so slightly it appears to be very very slightly blurry and then it catches up and then the face becomes clear. I know there is a name to this type of effect that I am seeing on the screen...anyone know what that might be?


Judder?
Do you see it on TV's as well?


----------



## fredworld

noob00224 said:


> Judder?
> Do you see it on TV's as well?



That's right. It's "judder." See information in this link.


----------



## noob00224

fredworld said:


> That's right. It's "judder." See information in this link.


Judder can be alleviated by displays that can handle motion handling better (DLP projectors), or via motion interpolation.
The Epson 5050UB has three levels of motion interpolation, but I'm not sure if they work in 4K, or just 1080p.
Another method is setting the refresh rate of the display to a multiple of the source material. For 24p material, 48Hz, or 72Hz.

The only one that can really overcome this effect is motion interpolation.

Good info regarding this technology, there are 5 videos:


----------



## JAR5197

*HELP 5050 trouble*

Hello all, I hope someone has an answer for a problem that jus popped up. Just got my 5050 mounted and have maybe 3 hours on it. I had been great to this point. Powered it up last night and something looked "off". The colors were not right and there were lots of light vertical lines. I've messed around with it but can't get things right. I've attached a couple pics.
Anyone know what's going on?


----------



## DavidinGA

Shinji Mikami said:


> Hi guys. I'd like to know if anybody could tell me how many real peak nits offer this Epson 5050UB/TW9400 in a dedicated room, please.
> 
> 
> 
> And if anybody have settings for a dedicated room too. Thank you !!!


Real nits are dependent on several things, including: screen size, pj settings, on-screen lumens, etc.

I have 79 real nits on my 150" 16:9 in natural mode and medium lamp. That jumps to 106 nits in high lamp mode.

Maybe that's helpful, maybe its not... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## crossrh

Quote: _ One thing that I would like to ask the experts in the room...I notice with when watching any 1080p and up resolution, I see when looking at a scene a "catching up" like effect._

I have the 6050, and I've never noticed that. Source issue, maybe?

Rick


----------



## JoeNealIND

I'm planning on purchasing a 5050 shortly, as my theater room is under construction. Like several others, I'm hoping there may be better pricing as we near the holiday season.

However, I'd like to get some opinions on the setup...

Room = 14 x 25' (but back wall is actually closer to 40'... theater is open to another room)
Light = completely controlled (no ambient light, other lights can be turned off / dimmed)
Wall / ceiling cover = Sherwin Williams Peppercorn (planned)
Floor = relatively light carpet
Receiver = Marantz SR6013
Main player = Nvidia Shield (probably the newly released Pro model) and Xfinity X1
MLP = 14'

My plan is for a 158" 2.35:1 Silver Ticket A/T screen, which I already purchased, but is still sitting in a box in my office. The question is, will the 5050 w/ seating at 14' be okay at that size? According to various calculators, throw distance for that size is b/w 16.5' - 26'. 

I would assume 16.5' would be the preferred, to get the highest possible lumens for the screen that size for HDR content? Is the screen too large? 

Thanks!

joe


----------



## Eric McEntee

Sorry folks, I've tried searching this forum, this thread, etc - and either I am awful at the search tools, or not finding what I need.

I have a Denon x3300w, was using a ps4 pro and Sony ubp-x800 and was using it fine for 2 years with my 5040ub.

Bought a 5050ub last week, and out of the sources I have - the only things that will connect via HDMI ports on the back are things like ps3, Roku Premier, a Switch when docked.

The PS4 gives me audio and no video.

The ubp-x800 does nothing.

I've swapped several cables around, have some more cables on the way - but the weird thing is when I use Aux 1 on the Denon (front port 4k/HDCP2.2) these sources work with the existing cables.

I've updated the Denon firmware, the 5050 came with 1.01 on it.

I'll keep searching this thread - looks like it might be page by page, but has anyone run into anything like this?

Again, apologize if this is a repost....


----------



## DavidinGA

JoeNealIND said:


> I'm planning on purchasing a 5050 shortly, as my theater room is under construction. Like several others, I'm hoping there may be better pricing as we near the holiday season.
> 
> 
> 
> However, I'd like to get some opinions on the setup...
> 
> 
> 
> Room = 14 x 25' (but back wall is actually closer to 40'... theater is open to another room)
> 
> Light = completely controlled (no ambient light, other lights can be turned off / dimmed)
> 
> Wall / ceiling cover = Sherwin Williams Peppercorn (planned)
> 
> Floor = relatively light carpet
> 
> Receiver = Marantz SR6013
> 
> Main player = Nvidia Shield (probably the newly released Pro model) and Xfinity X1
> 
> MLP = 14'
> 
> 
> 
> My plan is for a 158" 2.35:1 Silver Ticket A/T screen, which I already purchased, but is still sitting in a box in my office. The question is, will the 5050 w/ seating at 14' be okay at that size? According to various calculators, throw distance for that size is b/w 16.5' - 26'.
> 
> 
> 
> I would assume 16.5' would be the preferred, to get the highest possible lumens for the screen that size for HDR content? Is the screen too large?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> joe


I'm 14.5ft from a 150" 16:9 and it's great. I could move forward more and still be OK I think. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## JAR5197

JAR5197 said:


> Hello all, I hope someone has an answer for a problem that jus popped up. Just got my 5050 mounted and have maybe 3 hours on it. I had been great to this point. Powered it up last night and something looked "off". The colors were not right and there were lots of light vertical lines. I've messed around with it but can't get things right. I've attached a couple pics.
> Anyone know what's going on?



Anyone? Any ideas here? It is under warranty, do I make the call?


----------



## Shinji Mikami

DavidinGA said:


> Real nits are dependent on several things, including: screen size, pj settings, on-screen lumens, etc.
> 
> I have 79 real nits on my 150" 16:9 in natural mode and medium lamp. That jumps to 106 nits in high lamp mode.
> 
> Maybe that's helpful, maybe its not...
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Yes, it helps a lot. Now I have an idea how many nits I got with high lamp mode, natural cinema mod and 120" inches. I know that it's only an approximate value but it help me to setup madVR real peak nits. 

Thank you so much.


----------



## DavidinGA

Shinji Mikami said:


> Yes, it helps a lot. Now I have an idea how many nits I got with high lamp mode, natural cinema mod and 120" inches. I know that it's only an approximate value but it help me to setup madVR real peak nits.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much.


You can use a light meter phone app to get your on-screen foot candle and then multiple that number by your screen gain. That is your foot lambert value. Finally take your foot lamberts value and multiple that by 3.43 and that will be your nits value. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## JoeNealIND

DavidinGA said:


> I'm 14.5ft from a 150" 16:9 and it's great. I could move forward more and still be OK I think.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Lumens are okay for HDR? After reading all 138 pages of this thread, I had some concerns, as the majority of people aren't running above 110" screens. 

joe


----------



## eta1345

JAR5197 said:


> Anyone? Any ideas here? It is under warranty, do I make the call?


Yes I would call. That is not normal. The worse thing they can say is no.


----------



## DavidinGA

JoeNealIND said:


> Lumens are okay for HDR? After reading all 138 pages of this thread, I had some concerns, as the majority of people aren't running above 110" screens.
> 
> 
> 
> joe


My HDR looks amazing, BUT I'm using madVR dynamic tone mapping. I don't even need to use high lamp mode with MadVR! 


If you don't use MadVR, HDR is going to look much too dim imo; your not gonna be happy and you'll be forced to use high lamp mode. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

JAR5197 said:


> Anyone? Any ideas here? It is under warranty, do I make the call?





JAR5197 said:


> Hello all, I hope someone has an answer for a problem that jus popped up. Just got my 5050 mounted and have maybe 3 hours on it. I had been great to this point. Powered it up last night and something looked "off". The colors were not right and there were lots of light vertical lines. I've messed around with it but can't get things right. I've attached a couple pics.
> Anyone know what's going on?



Contact Epson Support. They've been _VERY_ responsive to any issues I've had.


----------



## JoeNealIND

DavidinGA said:


> My HDR looks amazing, BUT I'm using madVR dynamic tone mapping. I don't even need to use high lamp mode with MadVR!
> 
> 
> If you don't use MadVR, HDR is going to look much too dim imo; your not gonna be happy and you'll be forced to use high lamp mode.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I have no intention of running an HTPC. Too many issues with those over the years, so I'll be using an Nvidia Shield w/ Plex, for the most part. So you think HDR won't be bright enough without running in high lamp mode, due to the screen size?

joe


----------



## DavidinGA

JoeNealIND said:


> I have no intention of running an HTPC. Too many issues with those over the years, so I'll be using an Nvidia Shield w/ Plex, for the most part. So you think HDR won't be bright enough without running in high lamp mode, due to the screen size?
> 
> 
> 
> joe


I'm not very happy with HDR using a straight HDR source without madVR. For one I pretty have to use high lamp mode, which is obnoxious and then as my bulb ages I'm going to have an even dimmer image (bulb lumens drop a good bit within a short period). I don't have a bat cave, but I do have triple black velvet on the walls and ceiling the first 3ft out from the screen which helps tremendously, without that it would look even worse.

The smart thing to do, is to set everything up and try it BEFORE you buy a screen. Then you'll know for sure what you like or don't like. 


*edit* I see you already bought the screen. Is your question then more about which pj you should buy for it? Your gonna have to spend way more to find a brighter pj if you find the 5050 too dim I thk for that size display. 




Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

JoeNealIND said:


> I have no intention of running an HTPC. Too many issues with those over the years, so I'll be using an Nvidia Shield w/ Plex, for the most part. So you think HDR won't be bright enough without running in high lamp mode, due to the screen size?
> 
> joe



You will be ok. Dave runs a 5040 not a 5050. The 5050 has the 16 point HDR slider to brighten or darken the picture to your screen size. It will raise your black floor some of course but it won't look dim. 

The Epson tone mapping isn't perfect. Madvr would be a significant upgrade. But I do agree with you... an htcp is to much of a hassle for *ME* at this point.


----------



## DavidinGA

gunlife said:


> You will be ok. Dave runs a 5040 not a 5050. The 5050 has the 16 point HDR slider to brighten or darken the picture to your screen size. It will raise your black floor some of course but it won't look dim.
> 
> 
> 
> The Epson tone mapping isn't perfect. Madvr would be a significant upgrade. But I do agree with you... an htcp is to much of a hassle for *ME* at this point.


I know everyone has different tastes, but I definitely wasn't very happy running HDR before madVR on my 150". 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## JoeNealIND

DavidinGA said:


> I'm not very happy with HDR using a straight HDR source without madVR. For one I pretty have to use high lamp mode, which is obnoxious and then as my bulb ages I'm going to have an even dimmer image (bulb lumens drop a good bit within a short period). I don't have a bat cave, but I do have triple black velvet on the walls and ceiling the first 3ft out from the screen which helps tremendously, without that it would look even worse.
> 
> The smart thing to do, is to set everything up and try it BEFORE you buy a screen. Then you'll know for sure what you like or don't like.
> 
> 
> *edit* I see you already bought the screen. Is your question then more about which pj you should buy for it? Your gonna have to spend way more to find a brighter pj if you find the 5050 too dim I thk for that size display.


Yes, I did already buy a screen, because I was foolish (there was one left in the size I wanted, at the time, so I pulled the trigger). I can return it though, and go smaller, if I need to do so. I don't have the 5050 yet, as I'm hoping the price comes down a slight amount for the holidays.

joe


----------



## gunlife

DavidinGA said:


> I know everyone has different tastes, but I definitely wasn't very happy running HDR before madVR on my 150".
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



I totally believe you. You have a 5040. It has totally different built in tone mapping. The 5050 added 3 new processors including one to help with hdr tone mapping. Again instead of having 4 presets like a 5040 the 5050 has a 16 point slider to adjust hdr brightness for screen size. 

The 5050 and 5040 share a ton of similarities but tone mapping isn't one of them. Yes Madvr is about as good as it gets right now but many aren't as passionate about their hobby as you are!


----------



## JoeNealIND

gunlife said:


> You will be ok. Dave runs a 5040 not a 5050. The 5050 has the 16 point HDR slider to brighten or darken the picture to your screen size. It will raise your black floor some of course but it won't look dim.
> 
> The Epson tone mapping isn't perfect. Madvr would be a significant upgrade. But I do agree with you... an htcp is to much of a hassle for *ME* at this point.


I don't have any 4k devices today, and my previous PJ was a BenQ 1080 (and I left that in the old house, almost 4 years ago), so my guess is that I will be wow'd one no matter what.

We do watch quite a bit of 16:9 content (sports, TV), so I don't want to drop down too much, and I want to do CIH. Moving down to a 142" 2.35:1 makes 16:9 about 112", and I think that's the smallest I'd want to go, ideally.

joe


----------



## DavidinGA

gunlife said:


> I totally believe you. You have a 5040. It has totally different built in tone mapping. The 5050 added 3 new processors including one to help with hdr tone mapping. Again instead of having 4 presets like a 5040 the 5050 has a 16 point slider to adjust hdr brightness for screen size.
> 
> 
> 
> The 5050 and 5040 share a ton of similarities but tone mapping isn't one of them. Yes Madvr is about as good as it gets right now but many aren't as passionate about their hobby as you are!


Ok, I don't know much about the 5050's hdr. That's interesting, so you lose some of the better blacks but gain the brightness you want for HDR? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

DavidinGA said:


> Ok, I don't know much about the 5050's hdr. That's interesting, so you lose some of the better blacks but gain the brightness you want for HDR?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



Its not supposed to raise the black floor just the mids and highlights. But it does appear in some screens that the black floor is raised to get better shadow detail. Its definitely a work in progress. But even madvr, jvc, and lumagen are a work in progress for HDR for projectors.






Shows HDR on a 160" good comparison check it out.


----------



## noob00224

Shinji Mikami said:


> Hi guys. I'd like to know if anybody could tell me how many real peak nits offer this Epson 5050UB/TW9400 in a dedicated room, please.
> 
> And if anybody have settings for a dedicated room too. Thank you !!!


You can use a luxmenter or something similar, use https://webprojectorcalculator.com/ (has the 5040UB), or calculate it manually:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/3100142-ad-hoc-method-calculating-lumens.html


----------



## eta1345

Ok so I put up my 6050 today and well I am back in the game baby! My last projector was a Panasonic AE8000u. That was back in 2014 and I moved and had to sell it. Finally decided to go ahead and try one again in my room even though it was a little difficult to get going. Here are some pics of my room before I rearranged it.


----------



## skylarlove1999

eta1345 said:


> Ok so I put up my 6050 today and well I am back in the game baby! My last projector was a Panasonic AE8000u. That was back in 2014 and I moved and had to sell it. Finally decided to go ahead and try one again in my room even though it was a little difficult to get going. Here are some pics of my room before I rearranged it.


Welcome back!! That is one helluva mount!! Would love to see your screen and hear your thoughts when you have had time to watch some content .

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

eta1345 said:


> Ok so I put up my 6050 today and well I am back in the game baby! My last projector was a Panasonic AE8000u. That was back in 2014 and I moved and had to sell it. Finally decided to go ahead and try one again in my room even though it was a little difficult to get going. Here are some pics of my room before I rearranged it.


That is a heavy duty support arm...more like you took a leg off a robot from Star Wars!


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> That is a heavy duty support arm...more like you took a leg off a robot from Star Wars!


I know right

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## eta1345

skylarlove1999 said:


> I know right
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I got that mount years ago, if I remember correctly they are made to order from Chief, when I had a problem with a ceiling fan being in the way. It is held to a stud with 3 3" screws and is not going anywhere. It also telescopes if you need it. Pretty sturdy. Here is another picture of it without the projector.

I am waiting on the SI screen to get here later on in the week to get everything dialed in and will post some pics. Watched it for about 10 minutes before I had to run to town and did not see any problems. Want to get it calibrated but not sure if I should hire someone local or go with someone that people recommend on the board.


----------



## eta1345

HTX^2steve said:


> That is a heavy duty support arm...more like you took a leg off a robot from Star Wars!


They probably get them off of a AT-ST. Sure not big enough to be from AT-AT..


----------



## HTX^2steve

eta1345 said:


> They probably get them off of a AT-ST. Sure not big enough to be from AT-AT..


B-stock...definitely refirb or early prototype.... 

BTW...I would definitely spray paint it black.


----------



## skylarlove1999

eta1345 said:


> I got that mount years ago, if I remember correctly they are made to order from Chief, when I had a problem with a ceiling fan being in the way. It is held to a stud with 3 3" screws and is not going anywhere. It also telescopes if you need it. Pretty sturdy. Here is another picture of it without the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> I am waiting on the SI screen to get here later on in the week to get everything dialed in and will post some pics. Watched it for about 10 minutes before I had to run to town and did not see any problems. Want to get it calibrated but not sure if I should hire someone local or go with someone that people recommend on the board.


What size and scope did you wind up ordering

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Ladeback

eta1345 said:


> I got that mount years ago, if I remember correctly they are made to order from Chief, when I had a problem with a ceiling fan being in the way. It is held to a stud with 3 3" screws and is not going anywhere. It also telescopes if you need it. Pretty sturdy. Here is another picture of it without the projector.
> 
> I am waiting on the SI screen to get here later on in the week to get everything dialed in and will post some pics. Watched it for about 10 minutes before I had to run to town and did not see any problems. Want to get it calibrated but not sure if I should hire someone local or go with someone that people recommend on the board.


Is this the mount you have? Kind of like it vs mounting on the ceiling especially if it is at the back of the room.

https://www.amazon.com/Chief-Manufacturing-Mount-Projector-WP21US/dp/B009JOY30Q/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=chief+wall+mount+FOR+PROJECTOR&qid=1572896112&sr=8-8


----------



## eta1345

skylarlove1999 said:


> What size and scope did you wind up ordering
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I ended up with a 16:9, 90" SI Solo. Seems to be what I need for the room and was the right size. I sit about 7 feet away from the screen right now but can move the chairs forward or backward.


----------



## eta1345

Ladeback said:


> Is this the mount you have? Kind of like it vs mounting on the ceiling especially if it is at the back of the room.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Chief-Manufacturing-Mount-Projector-WP21US/dp/B009JOY30Q/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=chief+wall+mount+FOR+PROJECTOR&qid=1572896112&sr=8-8


That is a version of it but the one I have is this one: https://www.legrandav.com/products/chief/mounts/projector/short_throw/wm1/wm120aus. There are 3 different versions of that one model and the difference in all three is how far out the arm goes. I got the middle one so I think it extends up to 2 feet.

Yes it was much easier than dealing with a ceiling mount. Has the three axis mount and that makes it even easier. I remember when I ordered it took about 3 weeks to show up.


----------



## amdar

Any recommended settings for HDR and SDR?


----------



## amdar

I found an answer in Page 45. I have turned off the HDMI LINK and hopefully this would resolve the auto power OFF issue. 



amdar said:


> My epson 5050UB projector is going to power off mode while watching a movie. when i turn on the power the blue light is keep blinking for few mins and no image when blu light blinking. It happened three times while watching a movie. Any one had similar issue and any recommendations?


----------



## Biggydeen

Another update on my dead pixel thing on my newly 6050UB/tw9400. Epson HQ called be back and decided to try and fix the problem. They normally would not do this he told me but they want it fixed. So i've sended the unit to the repair service and they will replace the complete optical unit and if needed the motherboard. Hopefully this will fix the issue.

So after all great service from Epson. And in the process I got the contact info from someone @Epson HQ so if I encounter any other problems in the future I got my way in.

Will take about 2 weeks before I get it back.


----------



## amairphoto

Wonder if you can help me here all, the installers couldnt help at all. I have the 5050UB.

So to setup I have a Shield TV Pro, PS4 Pro and a Sony UHD Blu Ray

The Shield is telling me I cant get 4k at 60hz and HDR isnt showing.
So I plug the Roku in, its stating that it can do 4k 60hz but not 4k at 60hz HDR.
The PS4 Pro is again stating that I can do 4k is supported but I could get a better pic of i change the projector settings.

I have attached 3 pics to show what I mean. Is there something I need to change in the projectors settings? Or can it not simply display 4k HDR at 60fps.

I have the Denon X6500H receiver btw.


----------



## skylarlove1999

amairphoto said:


> Wonder if you can help me here all, the installers couldnt help at all. I have the 5050UB.
> 
> 
> 
> So to setup I have a Shield TV Pro, PS4 Pro and a Sony UHD Blu Ray
> 
> 
> 
> The Shield is telling me I cant get 4k at 60hz and HDR isnt showing.
> 
> So I plug the Roku in, its stating that it can do 4k 60hz but not 4k at 60hz HDR.
> 
> The PS4 Pro is again stating that I can do 4k is supported but I could get a better pic of i change the projector settings.
> 
> 
> 
> I have attached 3 pics to show what I mean. Is there something I need to change in the projectors settings? Or can it not simply display 4k HDR at 60fps.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Denon X6500H receiver btw.


In your receiver the 4K Setting needs to be set to enhanced. In the projector under menu Signal>Advanced >Edid>Expanded. Also on the projector under that Signal>Advanced>Image Processing>Fine. That should hopefully get you 4K/60FPS HDR on your devices 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## amairphoto

skylarlove1999 said:


> In your receiver the 4K Setting needs to be set to enhanced. In the projector under menu Signal>Advanced >Edid>Expanded. Also on the projector under that Signal>Advanced>Image Processing>Fine. That should hopefully get you 4K/60FPS HDR on your devices
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Ah thank you! it was the receiver that was setup incorrect. Looks great now!


----------



## skylarlove1999

amairphoto said:


> Ah thank you! it was the receiver that was setup incorrect. Looks great now!


Very welcome. The Shield TV Pro has 81 color format resolution choices. So hopefully you are familiar with it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## drober30

skylarlove1999 said:


> In your receiver the 4K Setting needs to be set to enhanced. In the projector under menu Signal>Advanced >Edid>Expanded. Also on the projector under that Signal>Advanced>Image Processing>Fine. That should hopefully get you 4K/60FPS HDR on your devices
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


skylarlove1999, thanks for pointing this out, I changed my receiver setting and now I can get my ATV4k to output 4:2:2. You have been an awesome contributor to this thread!


----------



## skylarlove1999

drober30 said:


> skylarlove1999, thanks for pointing this out, I changed my receiver setting and now I can get my ATV4k to output 4:2:2. You have been an awesome contributor to this thread!


Glad to be of service. @drober30 Thanks for stating your appreciation . Honestly, like many people, I feel taken for granted sometimes. You made a real difference today in my mental outlook. I really mean that. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

amairphoto said:


> Wonder if you can help me here all, the installers couldnt help at all. I have the 5050UB.
> 
> 
> 
> So to setup I have a Shield TV Pro, PS4 Pro and a Sony UHD Blu Ray
> 
> 
> 
> The Shield is telling me I cant get 4k at 60hz and HDR isnt showing.
> 
> So I plug the Roku in, its stating that it can do 4k 60hz but not 4k at 60hz HDR.
> 
> The PS4 Pro is again stating that I can do 4k is supported but I could get a better pic of i change the projector settings.
> 
> 
> 
> I have attached 3 pics to show what I mean. Is there something I need to change in the projectors settings? Or can it not simply display 4k HDR at 60fps.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Denon X6500H receiver btw.


Your installers should absolutely have known what settings were required in each of your devices to obtain 4K/60FPS HDR. I would love to say I am surprised, but some people are just trying to get to the next job. Glad you were able to find this thread.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## amairphoto

skylarlove1999 said:


> Very welcome. The Shield TV Pro has 81 color format resolution choices. So hopefully you are familiar with it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I currently have it set to 3840x2160 59.940hz YUV420 10-+bit Rec 2020 HDR 10 Ready

Looks good! if anyone knows of a better option i am open!



skylarlove1999 said:


> Your installers should absolutely have known what settings were required in each of your devices to obtain 4K/60FPS HDR. I would love to say I am surprised, but some people are just trying to get to the next job. Glad you were able to find this thread.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Honestly a frustrating day with them, they also brought the Logitceh 2400 Pro to install and just handed it to me for me to install. I can get everything working right on it so far apart from this projector. Nothing works on it at all with the projector. Very frustrating.
The installers were saying that they know someone who has a 24k projector and he cant get 4k UHD with HDR, i pulled up the Epson specs and he said oh I dont know then. Happy I have this community!


----------



## Dreathlock

Are there any recommended settings for gaming on PS4 Pro with HDR on the 6050?
Only settings i can find are for watching movies in HDR.


----------



## skylarlove1999

amairphoto said:


> I currently have it set to 3840x2160 59.940hz YUV420 10-+bit Rec 2020 HDR 10 Ready
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good! if anyone knows of a better option i am open!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly a frustrating day with them, they also brought the Logitceh 2400 Pro to install and just handed it to me for me to install. I can get everything working right on it so far apart from this projector. Nothing works on it at all with the projector. Very frustrating.
> 
> The installers were saying that they know someone who has a 24k projector and he cant get 4k UHD with HDR, i pulled up the Epson specs and he said oh I dont know then. Happy I have this community!


If it were me I would definitely be calling the owner of the company to express my frustration and tell him all about what happened. I would hope he would provide a partial refund , being that his installers did not provide the full service for which you paid. Try this setting on the Shield for HDR content 3840x2160 60HZ YUV4:2:2 12bit Rec 2020 HDR 10 Ready


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## TimHuey

*Varying Aspect Ratios on 6050 while Viewing*

If I'm watching a movie like "Interstellar" on a 2.39 scope screen and I have the projector zoomed to fill the scope screen with the 2.39 image, when the movie switches back to 16x9 or whatever other scope it uses what happens on my screen? Is there spillover on the top and bottom? Does the projector automatically lens shift to show the complete 16x9 image on the 2.39 screen?


----------



## rekbones

TimHuey said:


> *Varying Aspect Ratios on 6050 while Viewing*
> 
> If I'm watching a movie like "Interstellar" on a 2.39 scope screen and I have the projector zoomed to fill the scope screen with the 2.39 image, when the movie switches back to 16x9 or whatever other scope it uses what happens on my screen? Is there spillover on the top and bottom? Does the projector automatically lens shift to show the complete 16x9 image on the 2.39 screen?


This one of the pitfalls of having a 2:39 scope screen. The projector won't automatically switch AR with those few movies with switching AR. Your only option is to show the movie in 16:9 mode and have black bars on all four sides during the 2:39 parts or leave it in 2:39 zoom and the 16:9 parts will spill over the top and bottom of the screen. Not sure of the 6050 but many have a 2:39 blanking feature that will block the content outside the 2:39 area so you won't see the spill over. Some software like MadVR has the option to switch AR with scaling automatically when black bars are hard coded in the file but this is not always the case with all files and won't work on an external source.


----------



## chaosfourever

So I got a quick question. Just got my 5050. So I am wondering how do I get my color settings to automatically change when I swap sources. So lets say I am watching cable and it 1080p then I want my natural color settings to be loaded. Now I switch to my apple tv 4k and when playing HDR I want my digital cinema settings to be loaded. Hate having to manually select the setting each time. Can the projector automatically go to the right color settings based on the content?


----------



## skylarlove1999

chaosfourever said:


> So I got a quick question. Just got my 5050. So I am wondering how do I get my color settings to automatically change when I swap sources. So lets say I am watching cable and it 1080p then I want my natural color settings to be loaded. Now I switch to my apple tv 4k and when playing HDR I want my digital cinema settings to be loaded. Hate having to manually select the setting each time. Can the projector automatically go to the right color settings based on the content?


Epson doesn't make a projector for home theater users that switches picture modes based upon the input signal. So you always have to load your preferred picture mode for the incoming SDR or HDR signal. We mentioned this to Epson as being super frustrating when they unveiled the 6050 in NYC in May at an AVS forum sponsored event. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## TimHuey

rekbones said:


> This one of the pitfalls of having a 2:39 scope screen. The projector won't automatically switch AR with those few movies with switching AR. Your only option is to show the movie in 16:9 mode and have black bars on all four sides during the 2:39 parts or leave it in 2:39 zoom and the 16:9 parts will spill over the top and bottom of the screen. Not sure of the 6050 but many have a 2:39 blanking feature that will block the content outside the 2:39 area so you won't see the spill over. Some software like MadVR has the option to switch AR with scaling automatically when black bars are hard coded in the file but this is not always the case with all files and won't work on an external source.


Well that's disappointing. I guess I need to look at a chart showing what movies use varying scope images in their presentation and decide if 2.39 screen is right for me.


----------



## biglen

TimHuey said:


> Well that's disappointing. I guess I need to look at a chart showing what movies use varying scope images in their presentation and decide if 2.39 screen is right for me.


Or, do a painted screen on the entire wall like I did. Then you never have to worry about black bars on 16:9 or 2:39.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

TimHuey said:


> Well that's disappointing. I guess I need to look at a chart showing what movies use varying scope images in their presentation and decide if 2.39 screen is right for me.


It's a tiny amount. 3 were released last year. Pretty sure the Epson has blanking if you want. There's no way the benefits of a scope screen are outweighed by the handful of shifting AR titles.


----------



## jeahrens

biglen said:


> Or, do a painted screen on the entire wall like I did. Then you never have to worry about black bars on 16:9 or 2:39.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I don't know what your painted area is, but if projected black bars are on the painted screen area without masking you will be taking a hit on perceived contrast. Also if you are setting your maximum vertical immersion around 16:9, all films will take a hit in immersion. The wider the film the larger the hit.


----------



## biglen

jeahrens said:


> I don't know what your painted area is, but if projected black bars are on the painted screen area without masking you will be taking a hit on perceived contrast. Also if you are setting your maximum vertical immersion around 16:9, all films will take a hit in immersion. The wider the film the larger the hit.


I'm not sure what you mean by taking a hit, but my picture is stunning.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DunMunro

TimHuey said:


> Well that's disappointing. I guess I need to look at a chart showing what movies use varying scope images in their presentation and decide if 2.39 screen is right for me.


This post might help:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-...tles-will-updated-often-131.html#post42824970


----------



## jeahrens

biglen said:


> I'm not sure what you mean by taking a hit, but my picture is stunning.


I'm certain it does. However as we're all aware the black bars with wider AR material are not actually black. When you have a painted screen and these bars hit that painted area the gray coloring decreases how much contrast we perceive in the image. This is why people with a 16:9 screen employ masking panels. By covering this area it increases the perceived contrast. You can mask a painted wall it's just not as easy or as aesthetically pleasing as it is for a framed screen. This isn't to say you may love your image and choose to ignore it, but it is a factor. Even on projectors with better contrast than the Epson.

With a scope screen the black bars never hit the screen and therefore do not decrease perceived contrast here either.


----------



## rollon1980

Dreathlock said:


> Are there any recommended settings for gaming on PS4 Pro with HDR on the 6050?
> Only settings i can find are for watching movies in HDR.


Have a look at my post a few pages back. Games look best with max light output and my settings work pretty good for games.


----------



## hemo cave

crazyhog said:


> how many hours on ur lamp before the replacement?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It was only 128h :/ so not alot.


----------



## eta1345

Got the screen put up earlier today. Had some wrinkles but they got out pretty quick after it was down. Will have to find my camera and take some better pics.


----------



## newtodirecttv

Ordering the 5050 as a Christmas gift to myself and was going to go with a Silver Ticket 120". Not much ambient light so I am thinking just getting the white and not the grey screen. Anyone have any thoughts on this screen and setup?


----------



## MississippiMan

jeahrens said:


> I don't know what your painted area is, but if projected black bars are on the painted screen area without masking you will be taking a hit on perceived contrast. Also if you are setting your maximum vertical immersion around 16:9, all films will take a hit in immersion. The wider the film the larger the hit.





jeahrens said:


> I'm certain it does. However as we're all aware the black bars with wider AR material are not actually black. When you have a painted screen and these bars hit that painted area the gray coloring decreases how much contrast we perceive in the image. This is why people with a 16:9 screen employ masking panels. By covering this area it increases the perceived contrast. You can mask a painted wall it's just not as easy or as aesthetically pleasing as it is for a framed screen. This isn't to say you may love your image and choose to ignore it, but it is a factor. Even on projectors with better contrast than the Epson.
> 
> With a scope screen the black bars never hit the screen and therefore do not decrease perceived contrast here either.


Well...I was holding back, but the responses I see require some addressing. It's understandable that unfamiliarity with every aspect of what is possible via multi-componet Screen Coatings could lead you to make a blanket statement, and indeed if @*biglen* was using a standard Matte White or light Grey surface, you'd be 100% correct.

Fortunately, @*biglen* doesn't have those concerns. His surface has a Silver Grey *Black Flame* coating, one specifically designed to enhance black levels, but not at the expense of Colors or Whites.

The combination of a Neutral Grey Tint and Silver Metallic works in conjunction with a semi-translucent mixture of White Pearlescence, Matte Polyurethane and White Base to respond aggressively to intense light, but suppress lower intensity light. And it does so on a graduated scale, making grey scale detail all the more "detailed". A combination of accentuation and attenuation. Nothing "new" is created....there is no "active" action employed. It's simply a case where the reflective of the Pearl do one thing while the reflective properties of the Silver do a couple other.

Rather than a overlong discourse about* everything *the Black Flame Paint can do, I'll stick to why the Mix almost completely eliminates the visual aspects of "Projected Black Bars", and greatly attenuates "Projected Dark Grey Bars".

A *Projector does* not *project* *the color* *black*. ... When a *projector* sends a beam of light on to a *projector screen* , the parts of the image that look *black *are really a very dim white color (which we will call a *very dark gray*) Such light has considerably less "reflective" energy, and so will show a greatly reduced reaction to any surface it encounters.

Typically, it's stated "The white color of the _screen is_ as _black_ as the projected image gets." Well that's really a misstatement, because if such were actually the case, we would never see "Black Bars"...we would see "White"...or very light Grey Bars" the correct nomenclature is, "A Projected Black (dark Grey) will only be as dark as the surface it strikes allows it to be".

A White (unity or +gain) surface can't do anything but reflect the incoming light to the extent their physical properties allow. A simple Light to Medium Grey screen will attenuate light across the entire spectrum..... A very dark Grey screen will make the projected Black(grey) look extremely black, however without the employ of both a restrictive* and* reflective metallic content, such a ultra dark grey will attenuate lighter elements to a point of making them appear dull and much weaker in energy. 


A photon is a particle of light. The higher the frequency, the more energy the photon has. Of course, a beam of light has many photons. Breaking that down to two examples, this means that really intense *white light* can carry more power to a given area than less intense _*black /*_ *grey light* . 

In a mix such as Black Flame, the reflective elements in White Pearl primarily serve to maintain gain. The Grey Base within the Silver Metallic works to attenuate weaker light. There are two distinct reflective properties in the Silvered coating on the Mica. One is highly reflective...the other is totally non-reflective (Black) So when light of any frequency hits the multi level reflective Silver Metallic...Bright light is enhanced...and darker light is attenuated. Essentially a passive double entendre involving light. 

It is exactly the described passive" action that allows a advanced paint coating to enhance Colors and the perceived brightness of White, while attenuating weaker light, making it more difficult to see. Dark Grey Bars seem to get darker......Black Bars seem to get Blacker...while the retention of Color and White brightness give perceived Contrast a boost.

If the above is done right, Ambient Light Resistance a desirable result and since the intensity of the ambient light is low, it's effect on the surface of the screen is made far less noticeable. All that is also tied directly to the perception of having noticeably better contrast....and that means the contrast between the brighter elements of projected image and the projected Black Bars appears wider.

So that is why @*biglen* doesn't see any perceivable trace of Black Bars. Are they there? Absolutely! Can they be seen in a darkened room? Absolutely not. Can they be seen under moderate ambient light conditions? yes...as are virtually all "unmasked" areas. However they will be far less noticeable.

A neat point to consider


 @*biglen* 's version of Black Flame contains no BF Colorant to deepen the level of Grey tint already inherent in the Silver Metallic's Base. It is the lightest version and yet still has a substancial effect on image quality


Below is a near-macro image taken of @*biglen* 's screen surface. Clearly it shows a Silver Grey reflective surface under intense directed light, yet there are two distinct areas of shadow where the reflectivity of the surface has been attenuated. This simply because a thumb is in the way. Partially in one area....more so in another.

If the screen surface was a Matte White, the darker area would appear much lighter. For all the reasons @*jeahrens* has mentioned. But that is not the case with @*biglen* 's screen














With projectors such as JVCs that can project the deepest possible Black (grey), and a few others that employ actual internal Masking Panels, all vestige of Black Bars disappear entirely.

It boils down to this. If you do not posses the advantages inherent in either a advanced painted surface, or a uber expensive Mfg Black Screen....yeah, you need external Masking.


----------



## DigitalAV

biglen said:


> I'm not sure what you mean by taking a hit, but my picture is stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


this picture is particularly zef!


----------



## MississippiMan

newtodirecttv said:


> Ordering the 5050 as a Christmas gift to myself and was going to go with a Silver Ticket 120". Not much ambient light so I am thinking just getting the white and not the grey screen. Anyone have any thoughts on this screen and setup?



Grey is not another acronym for Ambient Light Screen.



The Grey is better suited for the 5050's Lumen output. Your Colors will retain more depth and the appearance of better saturation, and your Blacks will be more robust & Grey scale more detailed. Any slight blue push on the ST can easily be calibrated out.


----------



## biglen

DigitalAV said:


> this picture is particularly zef!


Zef? I've never heard that term. What's the meaning?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

biglen said:


> Zef? I've never heard that term. What's the meaning?



https://en.wikipedia.org › wiki › Zef
_Zef_ is, you're poor but you're fancy. You're poor but you're sexy, you've got style."

I'm "almost certain sure" that is a Boffo comment. 


However considering I have Painted Drywall Screens in more than a few $50K to $100K Residential and Commercial Venues, I'd take the "poor" part and shelve that.


----------



## agoldy

DigitalAV said:


> this picture is particularly zef!


Wow - that screenshot is stunning? I'm curious, what screen and source is that? Mine doesn't look that good:/. 

Also curious if that's 4.4.4 or 4.2.2

For some reason my installer can't get 4.4.4 from Apple TV to the projector through my Sony 1100ES receiver -

Thanks!


----------



## TimHuey

*Zooming range needed for 2.35 to 16x9*

If my 6050 projector is so close to the screen that it's fully zoomed out to fill a 140 inch diagonal 2.39 screen giving maximum brightness are there any disadvantages? Will i have problems adjusting zoom to watch a 16x9 show on the 2.39 screen? If I will, what amount of zoom do I need to leave to be able to watch both on the 2.39 screen?


----------



## Luminated67

TimHuey said:


> *Zooming range needed for 2.35 to 16x9*
> 
> If my 6050 projector is so close to the screen that it's fully zoomed out to fill a 140 inch diagonal 2.39 screen giving maximum brightness are there any disadvantages? Will i have problems adjusting zoom to watch a 16x9 show on the 2.39 screen? If I will, what amount of zoom do I need to leave to be able to watch both on the 2.39 screen?


No you should have any problem as the screen height with a cinemascope screen is smaller than the equivalent 16:9 so you start to zoom the other direction to get it to fit on to your screen and then have black bars at either side rather than at the top and bottom. 

One advantage you will have with your zoom near the max is you'll have more lumens too than say middle way and with HDR lumens is key.


----------



## biglen

agoldy said:


> Wow - that screenshot is stunning? I'm curious, what screen and source is that? Mine doesn't look that good:/.
> 
> 
> 
> Also curious if that's 4.4.4 or 4.2.2
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason my installer can't get 4.4.4 from Apple TV to the projector through my Sony 1100ES receiver -
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


The source is a 4k rip that's on my PC, played on my Nvidia Shield. It's 12 bit 4:2:2, displayed on my painted screen, using a mix called Black Flame Interstellar. I went with a painted screen so I don't have to worry about black bars when I switch between aspect ratios. The black bars just disappear into the Black Flame screen. The only source that gives me 4:4:4, is my Panasonic UHD player. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

biglen said:


> The only source that gives me 4:4:4, is my Panasonic UHD player.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Same for me - the only source that gives me 4:4:4 is my Sony UBP-X800 UHD player.

The best I can get out of my NVIDIA Shield is 12-bit 4:2:2.


----------



## biglen

dr bill said:


> Same for me - the only source that gives me 4:4:4 is my Sony UBP-X800 UHD player.
> 
> 
> 
> The best I can get out of my NVIDIA Shield is 12-bit 4:2:2.


Exactly the same for me. I wonder why the Shield won't do 4:4:4? It has to be a hardware thing I'm guessing. My UHD rips are 1:1, so that shouldn't be the issue. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Exactly the same for me. I wonder why the Shield won't do 4:4:4? It has to be a hardware thing I'm guessing. My UHD rips are 1:1, so that shouldn't be the issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I am unaware of any content encoded in color depth 12 bit 4:4:4. Your UHD discs are 12 bit 4:2:2 or 12 bit 4:2:0 and the bit is actually 10 but for filling the 12 bit bucket they add 2 bits, but you have set the Panasonic player to 12 bit 4:4:4 so that is why the projector info displays as such. If you click on the info button in the Panasonic you will see the top line as 12 bit 4:2:2 and further down what you have the player settings as 12 bit 4:4:4. My guess is the Shield didn't see any content that high so they didn't build that format into the media device, yet.


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am unaware of any content encoded in color depth 12 bit 4:4:4. Your UHD discs are 12 bit 4:2:2 but you have set the Panasonic player to 12 bit 4:4:4 so that is why the projector info displays as such. If you click on the info button in the Panasonic you will see the top line as 12 bit 4:2:2 and further down what you have the player settings as 12 bit 4:4:4. My guess is the Shield didn't see any content that high so they didn't build that format into the media device, yet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Interesting!

Always appreciate your input and wisdom, Skylarlove1999!


----------



## skylarlove1999

dr bill said:


> Interesting!
> 
> 
> 
> Always appreciate your input and wisdom, Skylarlove1999!


Thank you. Some of you might find this article interesting, as it explains really what the color depth is for UHD discs and UHD content

http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## alvaroec

Hi guys, 

Talking about aspects and resolution.

I understand than theses Epson 5050/6050, 2 pixel shifting, do some like 2716x1528px. 

At cinemascope format, people talked about it focus all the brightness (lumen-power), but what happens to pixesl/sharpness at this aspect ratio?

For example, 
-To a cinemascope 4k source, projector can do 16:9 aspect at 2716x1528px with black bars.
-To the same cinemascope 4k source, will projector do 239:1 at 2716x1528px without black bars? It haven an real increase of resolution and sharpness?

Thanks you


----------



## jeahrens

MississippiMan said:


> It boils down to this. If you do not posses the advantages inherent in either a advanced painted surface, or a uber expensive Mfg Black Screen....yeah, you need external Masking.


As always very informative and good information. I've yet to see or hear of any high contrast paint or screen material that completely eliminates black bars. It may minimize them to the point they are almost invisible, but short of a CRT projector or the Christie 2 million to one mega projector they're there. 

The real test is if you are projecting bars into the screen area (painted or otherwise) and you put up a mask does it or doesn't it make a difference to you? The brain is a tricky thing and we're talking about _perceived_ contrast here. I've seen masking setups and even with a negative gain screen and it does make a difference.

There's an easy solution to this if it does impact perceived contrast. Frame the screen area with some window trim painted flat black or covered in felt and then use that secure the masking. If it makes no difference to the owner, then do nothing and enjoy.


----------



## jeahrens

Luminated67 said:


> No you should have any problem as the screen height with a cinemascope screen is smaller than the equivalent 16:9


If you are purposefully decreasing the height of a scope screen, you're not doing either format justice. The goal with any scope setup should be to maintain the same image height either through maintaining the same measurement or re-positioning seating. Scope should not make 1.78:1 smaller, it should make wider ARs larger.


----------



## jeahrens

alvaroec said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Talking about aspects and resolution.
> 
> I understand than theses Epson 5050/6050, 2 pixel shifting, do some like 2716x1528px.
> 
> At cinemascope format, people talked about it focus all the brightness (lumen-power), but what happens to pixesl/sharpness at this aspect ratio?
> 
> For example,
> -To a cinemascope 4k source, projector can do 16:9 aspect at 2716x1528px with black bars.
> -To the same cinemascope 4k source, will projector do 239:1 at 2716x1528px without black bars? It haven an real increase of resolution and sharpness?
> 
> Thanks you


The projector will be projecting a 16:9 image at all times. So when projecting a scope image you will zoom and shift the 16:9 image area to where the active scope picture is filling the scope screen. The projected black bars are still there, but now on the wall and screen border. When projecting 16:9 you change the zoom and focus to where that 16:9 image is framed inside the scope screen (there are no unlit pillarboxed areas to the sides). Both of these zoom/focus settings can be saved to different lens memory settings to switch between the two at the touch of the button.


----------



## alvaroec

jeahrens said:


> The projector will be projecting a 16:9 image at all times. So when projecting a scope image you will zoom and shift the 16:9 image area to where the active scope picture is filling the scope screen. The projected black bars are still there, but now on the wall and screen border. When projecting 16:9 you change the zoom and focus to where that 16:9 image is framed inside the scope screen (there are no unlit pillarboxed areas to the sides). Both of these zoom/focus settings can be saved to different lens memory settings to switch between the two at the touch of the button.




Ok, as it zoom the image, there is no resolution increase at this area, maybe bigger pixels.

Thanks


----------



## jeahrens

alvaroec said:


> Ok, as it zoom the image, there is no resolution increase at this area, maybe bigger pixels.
> 
> Thanks


Correct, but luckily with pixel shifting the resulting pixel size isn't usually an issue. I've seen a 5040 projecting on a 150+" scope screen from about 10' and it looked great. Nothing objectionable on the pixel size.


----------



## DigitalAV

MississippiMan said:


> https://en.wikipedia.org › wiki › Zef
> _Zef_ is, you're poor but you're fancy. You're poor but you're sexy, you've got style."
> 
> I'm "almost certain sure" that is a Boffo comment.
> 
> 
> However considering I have Painted Drywall Screens in more than a few $50K to $100K Residential and Commercial Venues, I'd take the "poor" part and shelve that.


I'm an unabashed Die Antwoord and Chappie fan. Don't judge me!


----------



## MississippiMan

jeahrens said:


> As always very informative and good information. I've yet to see or hear of any high contrast paint or screen material that completely eliminates black bars. It may minimize them to the point they are almost invisible, but short of a CRT projector or the Christie 2 million to one mega projector they're there.


We are not speaking in "almost" terms. Something that is "there" but not able to be "seen" is called being "invisible" and therein is not perceived as being "there"......at all. Yes...absolutely _*it*_ is there...just like the oxygen you breathe, but if you cannot resolve it using your own eyes, even when someone told you it was there, it would both still remain imperceptible to your eyes.



> The real test is if you are projecting bars into the screen area (painted or otherwise) and you put up a mask does it or doesn't it make a difference to you? The brain is a tricky thing and we're talking about _perceived_ contrast here. I've seen masking setups and even with a negative gain screen and it does make a difference.


The entire objective of having a screen surface that eliminates the distraction of seeing even a slight vestige of Black Bars is what makes masking wholly redundant.

Your do not seem to be willing to take into account the particular Screen being used here...your referencing only of those examples you have observed and therefore cannot speak in absolutes. @*biglen* has stated irrevocably that he cannot see the bars "at all", and that should not be considered just being a subjective statement because he might be being tricked. He should be given credit for speaking in his own deserved absolutes. It doesn't happen that often.

But let me clarify a point...I myself have taken several examples of conventional masking materials (Felt Tape...Saturated Black Painted Panels...Black Panels) and placed them within the projected Black areas during showings in completely darkened rooms (...that's when it should be most important...) and have seen no difference. When sufficient or considerable ambient light is present...only then does effective masking make an appreciable difference with the lighter BF application in use. I would not dispute that. However even then the Bars are greatly reduced. And of course anyone who is subjected to such viewing conditions already knows their experience is compromised. It is the souls who have Matte White screens, or ALR screens that are insufficient in performance that still require Masking solutions in Light Controlled Theaters.



> There's an easy solution to this if it does impact perceived contrast. Frame the screen area with some window trim painted flat black or covered in felt and then use that secure the masking. If it makes no difference to the owner, then do nothing and enjoy.


Your still putting it forth as if @*biglen* has an issue that makes him have to decide if there is a difference that makes a difference. The real issue being that you seem to be unwilling to accept that his Screen application is...or even "might be" doing something that you yourself simply have not observed in your personal experience. And that is your prerogative. However that in and of itself does not mean @*biglen* is not experiencing exactly what he says is happening.

Many individuals jump through all sorts of masking related Hoops & Barrels trying to solve the "Bars" syndrome. Some have more simpler choices (C.I.H) while others have it less simple (C.I.W.) The individuals who have painted entire Format-Free walls absolutely need a surface that would not show the outside parameters of any projected Black area....even more so than those who have screens with defined borders. And there is a solution...brook no doubt about it!

In any case, the shown image quality of @*biglen* 's screen shots clearly show that within the area of the image, something very special is happening. It should be fairly stated that such is indicative of something special also happening outside that area. You...and anyone else who might be faced with the decision of "To Mask or not to Mask" should welcome the freedom from the expense, trouble, and cosmetic considerations most masking solutions bring to the table.


----------



## jeahrens

MississippiMan said:


> In any case, the shown image quality of @*biglen* 's screen shots clearly show that within the area of the image, something very special is happening. It should be fairly stated that such is indicative of something special also happening outside that area. You...and anyone else who might be faced with the decision of "To Mask or not to Mask" should welcome the freedom from the expense, trouble, and cosmetic considerations most masking solutions bring to the table.


Screenshots show lots of things differently than they are in reality. They're colored by the camera used and the monitor viewing them on. A screenshot can make a 4K XPR DLP appear to have inky blacks when the opposite is true. As far as the screenshots posted, I only complimented them on how good they look.

I can only report on what I have observed. Saying that I haven't seen or heard of a material (until this discussion at least) that eliminated black bars common with digital projection is simply a statement of my experience and knowledge. That's not an absolute, nor was it intended to be. If I sound skeptical that there is a reflective material that doesn't reflect the projected black bar area, I am. If you say it isn't an issue, I'm not going to say otherwise as I haven't seen it.

All I suggested was that if the owner is experiencing the phenomenon, experiment. If not, enjoy. 

I'll keep an eye out and hopefully on a theater crawl I'll be able to observe this screen firsthand. I don't know how it could be absorbing the black bars completely without introducing issues with gain or crush, but one should always have an open mind. I look forward to it.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> Screenshots show lots of things differently than they are in reality. They're colored by the camera used and the monitor viewing them on. A screenshot can make a 4K XPR DLP appear to have inky blacks when the opposite is true. As far as the screenshots posted, I only complimented them on how good they look.
> 
> 
> 
> I can only report on what I have observed. Saying that I haven't seen or heard of a material (until this discussion at least) that eliminated black bars common with digital projection is simply a statement of my experience and knowledge. That's not an absolute, nor was it intended to be. If I sound skeptical that there is a reflective material that doesn't reflect the projected black bar area, I am. If you say it isn't an issue, I'm not going to say otherwise as I haven't seen it.
> 
> 
> 
> All I suggested was that if the owner is experiencing the phenomenon, experiment. If not, enjoy.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll keep an eye out and hopefully on a theater crawl I'll be able to observe this screen firsthand. I don't know how it could be absorbing the black bars completely without introducing issues with gain or crush, but one should always have an open mind. I look forward to it.


That is a very great approach to AV and life. Open minds and closed doors as my grandfather used to remind me when he walked by the bathroom and I had forgotten to shut the door. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

DigitalAV said:


> I'm an unabashed Die Antwoord and Chappie fan. Don't judge me!



I'd "sip" that................


----------



## YIPENG SUN

Is 5050ub suitable for 180 inch 2.35 screen in a black room? If yes, is there any special requirement for the projector screen? could it be normal screen like 1.0 gain white or 0.8 gain high contrast gray ?


----------



## biglen

I have a professional calibrator at my house as we speak. He said I'm losing ZERO contrast from the black bars. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

YIPENG SUN said:


> Is 5050ub suitable for 180 inch 2.35 screen in a black room? If yes, is there any special requirement for the projector screen? could it be normal screen like 1.0 gain white or 0.8 gain high contrast gray ?


180 inch screen is very ambitious for any projector to achieve really good HDR results. Because of the large screen and your throw distance to project 180 inches, you will have some challenges achieving enough lumens to get really good HDR performance. I would say a higher gain screen would be beneficial at that size. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I have a professional calibrator at my house as we speak. He said I'm losing ZERO contrast from the black bars.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That is great to hear. Pretty amazing screen. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

YIPENG SUN said:


> Is 5050ub suitable for 180 inch 2.35 screen in a black room? If yes, is there any special requirement for the projector screen? could it be normal screen like 1.0 gain white or 0.8 gain high contrast gray ?


SDR - yes.
HDR - no (unless you're running madVR/ENVY).


----------



## MississippiMan

biglen said:


> I have a professional calibrator at my house as we speak. He said I'm losing ZERO contrast from the black bars.


I would image he's pretty surprised himself.  Do you suppose anyone on here will raise an eyebrow........or dine on that 'ol Black bird? 

Absolutely ask for any Graph and/or Paper stating what his measurements pertained to. And if he has any comments to share, please have him feel free to do so. Good-Bad-Indifferent-maybe a OMG! If he has an opinion as to the BF screen being comparable to any particular MFG Screens, that would be welcome as well. Hey....ask him for a Gain measurement too.

I'd venture this. An almost universal finding is that bumping down the White Gamma brightness a wee bit is almost all that is required across the board...as far as what is necessary to calibrate to the Screen surface. Basically, exactly the opposite of what most would expect from a Grey Screen. If the PJ itself is way out, that's a bit different, but any Pro Calibrator knows the differences between what the PJ pumps out and what the Screen reflects. It's easy to make that determination by noting how much tweaking to the PJ must be done to get the instrumentation to show the goods.


----------



## jeahrens

MississippiMan said:


> I would image he's pretty surprised himself.  Do you suppose anyone on here will raise an eyebrow........or dine on that 'ol Black bird?


Sigh. You don't lose contrast with black bars, they impact perceived contrast. Masking the bars IF they are objectionable/noticeable etc, just increases the perceived contrast. That's all that's been said on the subject.


----------



## jeahrens

YIPENG SUN said:


> Is 5050ub suitable for 180 inch 2.35 screen in a black room? If yes, is there any special requirement for the projector screen? could it be normal screen like 1.0 gain white or 0.8 gain high contrast gray ?


I'd seriously consider the 6050 (which has an anamorphic mode the 5050 lacks) and a lens. You'll need all the light you can get with that size.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> I'd seriously consider the 6050 (which has an anamorphic mode the 5050 lacks) and a lens. You'll need all the light you can get with that size.


This is an outstanding point but honestly if I was spending that kind of money I would go full out and get the JVC RS2000/NX7 with a lens. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## YIPENG SUN

skylarlove1999 said:


> 180 inch screen is very ambitious for any projector to achieve really good HDR results. Because of the large screen and your throw distance to project 180 inches, you will have some challenges achieving enough lumens to get really good HDR performance. I would say a higher gain screen would be beneficial at that size.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks for reply. If the size is reduce to 150 inch, will a normal gain 1.0 screen fit?


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> This is an outstanding point but honestly if I was spending that kind of money I would go full out and get the JVC RS2000/NX7 with a lens.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Well we don't know the budget and this is a case where the high bulb mode and uncalibrated brighter picture settings of the Epson make it a great choice. That is a HUGE screen.


----------



## skylarlove1999

YIPENG SUN said:


> Thanks for reply. If the size is reduce to 150 inch, will a normal gain 1.0 screen fit?


Honestly even 150 would probably not be great HDR performance without MadVR or Envy or Lumagen or a DCR Lens. @DavidinGA has the 5040 with MadVR. As much as the 5050 HDR performance is improved over the 5040 I still think 150 inches with 1.0 gain screen is being very ambitious IMHO. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> Well we don't know the budget and this is a case where the high bulb mode and uncalibrated brighter picture settings of the Epson make it a great choice. That is a HUGE screen.


Agreed. I figure if you have the spare change for a lens, you could come up with more for the JVC RS2000. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

jeahrens said:


> Well we don't know the budget and this is a case where the high bulb mode and uncalibrated brighter picture settings of the Epson make it a great choice. That is a HUGE screen.


Exactly.

I run my 5040 on 150" 1.0 gain screen and in natural mode and medium lamp with MadVR and I get 79 nits on screen which is great for HDR (high lamp bumps that up to 106 nits which is too bright for me). I don't use the color filter (cinema modes) at all because it's too dim for my tastes (even with MadVR!).

That said, I've heard the built in HDR settings in the 5050 "can" make better use of the lumens, so it should be a good bit brighter/better across the board for HDR vs my 5040. Perhaps someone with experience with both the 5040 and 5050 can chime in.... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> That is great to hear. Pretty amazing screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


He actually said he'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between my painted screen, and his high end Stewart screen. I put on "The Revenant" after he was done calibrating, and it looked breathtaking. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> He actually said he'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between my painted screen, and his high end Stewart screen. I put on "The Revenant" after he was done calibrating, and it looked breathtaking.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Very happy for you. Enjoy.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## IslaTurbine

Any hints of some Black Friday deals for the 6050 or the 5050? I haven’t seen anything yet.


----------



## TimHuey

Hoping for that as well. I was told more likely it would be a combo deal with price breaks not so much a straight discount on the projector.


----------



## YIPENG SUN

skylarlove1999 said:


> Honestly even 150 would probably not be great HDR performance without MadVR or Envy or Lumagen or a DCR Lens. @DavidinGA has the 5040 with MadVR. As much as the 5050 HDR performance is improved over the 5040 I still think 150 inches with 1.0 gain screen is being very ambitious IMHO.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Are MadVR/Envy/Lumagen software or hardware? sorry I am newbie here.


----------



## YIPENG SUN

DavidinGA said:


> Exactly.
> 
> I run my 5040 on 150" 1.0 gain screen and in natural mode and medium lamp with MadVR and I get 79 nits on screen which is great for HDR (high lamp bumps that up to 106 nits which is too bright for me). I don't use the color filter (cinema modes) at all because it's too dim for my tastes (even with MadVR!).
> 
> That said, I've heard the built in HDR settings in the 5050 "can" make better use of the lumens, so it should be a good bit brighter/better across the board for HDR vs my 5040. Perhaps someone with experience with both the 5040 and 5050 can chime in....
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Is MadVR software? Thanks.


----------



## DavidinGA

YIPENG SUN said:


> Is MadVR software? Thanks.


Yes, it is software.


https://wiki.mikejung.biz/MadVR


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## YIPENG SUN

DavidinGA said:


> Yes, it is software.
> 
> 
> https://wiki.mikejung.biz/MadVR
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


What is the blu-ray-players you are using to install MadVR? I guess it is a computer? Thanks.


----------



## DavidinGA

YIPENG SUN said:


> What is the blu-ray-players you are using to install MadVR? I guess it is a computer? Thanks.


Yes computer.

Here is the download link:

http://madvr.com/


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## YIPENG SUN

DavidinGA said:


> Yes computer.
> 
> Here is the download link:
> 
> http://madvr.com/
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Thanks. Just learn from https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2364113-guide-building-4k-htpc-madvr.html


----------



## YIPENG SUN

DavidinGA said:


> Exactly.
> 
> I run my 5040 on 150" 1.0 gain screen and in natural mode and medium lamp with MadVR and I get 79 nits on screen which is great for HDR (high lamp bumps that up to 106 nits which is too bright for me). I don't use the color filter (cinema modes) at all because it's too dim for my tastes (even with MadVR!).
> 
> That said, I've heard the built in HDR settings in the 5050 "can" make better use of the lumens, so it should be a good bit brighter/better across the board for HDR vs my 5040. Perhaps someone with experience with both the 5040 and 5050 can chime in....
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Does that mean it could even work on 180'' with proper MadVR setup?


----------



## DavidinGA

YIPENG SUN said:


> Does that mean it could even work on 180'' with proper MadVR setup?


Yes, without the color filter engaged. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## YIPENG SUN

DavidinGA said:


> Yes!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Really? It sounds like so powerful. Even oppo-203 can't make it I guess.


----------



## Musty Hustla

I was pretty set on getting a 5050ub until I discovered some posts about motion judder and I’m concerned. I anticipate watching a lot of action movies and major sporting events. I likely will do some light gaming too. I have a 65in Lg OLED that is also known to have motion issues, but it’s not a big deal for me. Does the 5050 judder worse than the LG? Is the motion issue a big problem?


----------



## biglen

Musty Hustla said:


> I was pretty set on getting a 5050ub until I discovered some posts about motion judder and I’m concerned. I anticipate watching a lot of action movies and major sporting events. I likely will do some light gaming too. I have a 65in Lg OLED that is also known to have motion issues, but it’s not a big deal for me. Does the 5050 judder worse than the LG? Is the motion issue a big problem?


I haven't experienced any motion judder when watching movies. I've also been playing a lot of the new Modern Warfare, and there's no lag or judder, and I'm a hardcore gamer. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## R o d

biglen said:


> He actually said he'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between my painted screen, and his high end Stewart screen. I put on "The Revenant" after he was done calibrating, and it looked breathtaking.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Would you like to share your settings, or at least some general comments about the adjustments he made?


----------



## biglen

R o d said:


> Would you like to share your settings, or at least some general comments about the adjustments he made?


Honestly, each setup is different. Before I had Kevin Miller come over yesterday, I was using someone else's settings that were posted in this thread. As Kevin was calibrating my projector, he commented over and over how far off my settings were, so I told him I was using someone else's. He said that's never a good idea. He uses super high end calibration devices, that are hooked up to his laptop, so it's hard for me to say exactly what he was adjusting. Before he even started, he did do a panel alignment, and my alignment was off, which I would have never known. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

Musty Hustla said:


> I was pretty set on getting a 5050ub until I discovered some posts about motion judder and I’m concerned. I anticipate watching a lot of action movies and major sporting events. I likely will do some light gaming too. I have a 65in Lg OLED that is also known to have motion issues, but it’s not a big deal for me. Does the 5050 judder worse than the LG? Is the motion issue a big problem?


Zero motion judder on mine.

Motion is handled differently by different display technologies though, so everyone has their own take on each approach to motion. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## R o d

biglen said:


> Honestly, each setup is different. Before I had Kevin Miller come over yesterday, I was using someone else's settings that were posted in this thread. As Kevin was calibrating my projector, he commented over and over how far off my settings were, so I told him I was using someone else's. He said that's never a good idea. He uses super high end calibration devices, that are hooked up to his laptop, so it's hard for me to say exactly what he was adjusting. Before he even started, he did do a panel alignment, and my alignment was off, which I would have never known.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Certainly that's a valid point as it has been made on forum pages many, many times over the years. I do understand and appreciate the reminder, it's just that in my case I live in a small town where I don't have access to professional calibration services. Seeing what others have done, while understanding that it may or may not work for me, gives a starting point for experimenting with the settings on a relatively new product. I'm projecting on a low-gain, 100" white screen in a light-controlled room.


----------



## biglen

R o d said:


> Certainly that's a valid point as it has been made on forum pages many, many times over the years. I do understand and appreciate the reminder, it's just that in my case I live in a small town where I don't have access to professional calibration services. Seeing what others have done, while understanding that it may or may not work for me, gives a starting point for experimenting with the settings on a relatively new product. I'm projecting on a low-gain, 100" white screen in a light-controlled room.


I'm not even using a fixed screen. I did a painted screen on the entire wall, so I wouldn't have to worry about the black bars when switching aspect ratios. It's a gray screen, so my settings are probably totally different then what would be used on a white fixed screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Honestly, each setup is different. Before I had Kevin Miller come over yesterday, I was using someone else's settings that were posted in this thread. As Kevin was calibrating my projector, he commented over and over how far off my settings were, so I told him I was using someone else's. He said that's never a good idea. He uses super high end calibration devices, that are hooked up to his laptop, so it's hard for me to say exactly what he was adjusting. Before he even started, he did do a panel alignment, and my alignment was off, which I would have never known.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I’ve been asked numerous times to share my settings and I refuse simply because each projector, screen and distance from screen to projector are different and determines the end results. In my case I was shocked how little tweaking Gordon (calibrator) required to get mine on the money. Completely agree about the equipment used by these guys, no $150-200 meter that’s for sure LOL.


----------



## DavidinGA

Luminated67 said:


> I’ve been asked numerous times to share my settings and I refuse simply because each projector, screen and distance from screen to projector are different and determines the end results. In my case I was shocked how little tweaking Gordon (calibrator) required to get mine on the money. Completely agree about the equipment used by these guys, no $150-200 meter that’s for sure LOL.


While I agree with what your saying, it doesn't hurt to help noobs get a reasonable reference point to consider. They just need to understand they're not going to be able to simply plug and play the exact same setup and expect the same results... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

DavidinGA said:


> While I agree with what your saying, it doesn't hurt to help noobs get a reasonable reference point to consider. They just need to understand they're not going to be able to simply plug and play the exact same setup and expect the same results...
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


According to the guy who did mine, it's not even a reasonable reference point for other projectors. I used someone else's, and they were WAY off when my guy was calibrating mine.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## YIPENG SUN

Is it suitable to have 5050UB + UH480 Anamorphic Lens to project 175'' (2.35:1) normal gain 1.0 screen?

Without UH480, the screen would be around 140'' (16:9)

Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

YIPENG SUN said:


> Is it suitable to have 5050UB + UH480 Anamorphic Lens to project 175'' (2.35:1) normal gain 1.0 screen?
> 
> 
> 
> Without UH480, the screen would be around 140'' (16:9)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


The 5050 does not support the use of an anamorphic lens. The 6050 does. The lens should probably give you enough additional brightness so you could go with a larger screen. YMMV

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MJ DOOM

R o d said:


> Certainly that's a valid point as it has been made on forum pages many, many times over the years. I do understand and appreciate the reminder, it's just that in my case I live in a small town where I don't have access to professional calibration services. Seeing what others have done, while understanding that it may or may not work for me, gives a starting point for experimenting with the settings on a relatively new product. I'm projecting on a low-gain, 100" white screen in a light-controlled room.


https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...me-cinema-5050ub-4k-pro-uhd-projector-review/

Recommended Settings For SDR & HDR

SDR

Mode Natural
Brightness 50
Contrast 50
Color Sat 50
Tint 50
Sharpness 5, 5, 5
Color Temp Custom
Offset R 50
Offset G 48
Offset B 52
Gain R 50
Gain G 51
Gain B 50
Gamma -2
Set the bulb and manual iris to taste
Auto-iris high speed delivers the best possible contrast

HDR

Mode Digital Cinema
Brightness 50
Contrast 50
Color Sat 50
Tint 50
Sharpness 5, 5, 5
Color Temp 8
Skin Tone 3
Custom
Offsets unchanged
Gain R 60
Gain G 58
Gain B 40
HDR4 worked for me but your mileage may vary

Also from Sound & Vision. 

"Before calibration, the Epson's default 6500K color temperature preset in Natural color mode displayed very good grayscale tracking, with the Delta E averaging out to 2.6. After calibration, that number improved to 1.4, with a high of 2.7 at 90 percent brightness. (Delta E is a figure of merit indicating how close the color comes to the standards, either D65 for the white point or the color coordinates for each of the primary and secondary colors that define the color gamut under test. *Values below 3 are considered to be unnoticeable.*)

With the default settings active in Natural color mode, the Delta E of the 5050UB's measured color points averaged out to 1.0. While the projector provides color management system controls, *I didn't feel the need to access them given the Epson's faithful out-of- box Rec. 709 color reproduction.* Coverage of the P3 color gamut was an impressive 97 percent. Gamma closely tracked a 2.2 target for most of the range when the -1 Gamma preset was selected, with a high of 2.3 at 90 IRE."

These projectors perform great out of the box. Its already 95% there. Don't get caught up in forum hype and spend unnecessary money.


----------



## YIPENG SUN

skylarlove1999 said:


> The 5050 does not support the use of an anamorphic lens. The 6050 does. The lens should probably give you enough additional brightness so you could go with a larger screen. YMMV
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Why 5050 doesn't support it? Can I make the player to stretch to full screen and let anamorphic lens make it 2.35? Thanks.


----------



## Luminated67

DavidinGA said:


> While I agree with what your saying, it doesn't hurt to help noobs get a reasonable reference point to consider. They just need to understand they're not going to be able to simply plug and play the exact same setup and expect the same results...
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


The simple answer is NO, in no way will you get colour accuracy using someone else’s settings. I’ve been there and the difference between using another’s figures and mine was huge. In fact the factory default settings were closer.


----------



## Keith AP

YIPENG SUN said:


> Why 5050 doesn't support it? Can I make the player to stretch to full screen and let anamorphic lens make it 2.35? Thanks.


 He's just indicating the 5050 doesn't provide the necessary stretch or compression display modes for lens use. If you have the means to stretch the image vertically by external player, processor, or software (like madvr) - then the lens should be able to be used.


----------



## pete ramberg

Thanks for the link to the review.

One correction though: the 5050 does NOT have 3840x2160 resolution. It has half of that...




MJ DOOM said:


> https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...me-cinema-5050ub-4k-pro-uhd-projector-review/
> 
> Recommended Settings For SDR & HDR
> 
> SDR
> 
> Mode Natural
> Brightness 50
> Contrast 50
> Color Sat 50
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 5, 5, 5
> Color Temp Custom
> Offset R 50
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 52
> Gain R 50
> Gain G 51
> Gain B 50
> Gamma -2
> Set the bulb and manual iris to taste
> Auto-iris high speed delivers the best possible contrast
> 
> HDR
> 
> Mode Digital Cinema
> Brightness 50
> Contrast 50
> Color Sat 50
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 5, 5, 5
> Color Temp 8
> Skin Tone 3
> Custom
> Offsets unchanged
> Gain R 60
> Gain G 58
> Gain B 40
> HDR4 worked for me but your mileage may vary
> 
> Also from Sound & Vision.
> 
> "Before calibration, the Epson's default 6500K color temperature preset in Natural color mode displayed very good grayscale tracking, with the Delta E averaging out to 2.6. After calibration, that number improved to 1.4, with a high of 2.7 at 90 percent brightness. (Delta E is a figure of merit indicating how close the color comes to the standards, either D65 for the white point or the color coordinates for each of the primary and secondary colors that define the color gamut under test. *Values below 3 are considered to be unnoticeable.*)
> 
> With the default settings active in Natural color mode, the Delta E of the 5050UB's measured color points averaged out to 1.0. While the projector provides color management system controls, *I didn't feel the need to access them given the Epson's faithful out-of- box Rec. 709 color reproduction.* Coverage of the P3 color gamut was an impressive 97 percent. Gamma closely tracked a 2.2 target for most of the range when the -1 Gamma preset was selected, with a high of 2.3 at 90 IRE."
> 
> These projectors perform great out of the box. Its already 95% there. Don't get caught up in forum hype and spend unnecessary money.


----------



## IslaTurbine

CamelCamelCamel shows that this is the lowest price Amazon has had for the 5050, though it has been this low before. 

Why is it that so few retailers seem to carry the 6050?


----------



## skylarlove1999

newtodirecttv said:


> FYI, best price I have seen on sale this morning from Amazon - $2699 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P7Y3D6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


Price talk is not allowed except in the deals area of the forum. I would hate for anyone to get an infraction. Might want to edit. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## YIPENG SUN

Keith AP said:


> He's just indicating the 5050 doesn't provide the necessary stretch or compression display modes for lens use. If you have the means to stretch the image vertically by external player, processor, or software (like madvr) - then the lens should be able to be used.


I see. Thanks.


----------



## filmgeek47

Hey guys,
Longtime lurker in the thread. I just found what sounds (to me) like a hell of a deal on an RS440U B stock. I was about ready to pull the trigger on the 5050UB, but there's now a substantial price difference in the JVC's favor. Any thoughts on which one to recommend? Beaming onto a 120" in a fully light controlled room. Coming from a Sony HW40ES. Main priority's are increased contrast/black levels and sharpness/perceived clarity.

Also, stupid question but if a dealer is referring to the RS440, that’s the same product as the RS440U right?

Thanks!


----------



## MississippiMan

filmgeek47 said:


> Hey guys,
> Longtime lurker in the thread. I just found what sounds (to me) like a hell of a deal on an RS440U B stock. I was about ready to pull the trigger on the 5050UB, but there's now a substantial price difference in the JVC's favor. Any thoughts on which one to recommend? Beaming onto a 120" in a fully light controlled room. Coming from a Sony HW40ES. Main priority's are increased contrast/black levels and sharpness/perceived clarity.


If the lessor amount of Lumen output is no issue, and your B-Stock RS440 is warrantied, and the price is a low as you seem to indicate, do not hesitate another instant!



> Also, stupid question but if a dealer is referring to the RS440, that’s the same product as the RS440U right?
> 
> Thanks!


No stupid questions...except the one's you should have asked first....and in those cases...stupid is as stupid didn't.

Yes...they are the same.

But be advised that any Lamp replacement down the road will be substantially more expensive.


----------



## filmgeek47

MississippiMan said:


> If the lessor amount of Lumen output is no issue, and your B-Stock RS440 is warrantied, and the price is a low as you seem to indicate, do not hesitate another instant!
> 
> No stupid questions...except the one's you should have asked first....and in those cases...stupid is as stupid didn't.
> 
> Yes...they are the same.
> 
> 
> But be advised that any Lamp replacement down the road will be substantially more expensive.


Yeah, I'm torn. It's no returns unless defective, 1 year warranty, which seems a bit iffy. The higher price of the Epson is fine for me as it's what I was planning to pay anyway, but I'd hate to pay substantially more for less (or the same) performance. My setup is well light controlled (dark navy matte walls and ceiling no windows) but I appreciated the peak brightness of the Epson in the admittedly awkward demo I got of it at Best Buy. For HDR purposes the lumens difference might be relevant.


----------



## Luminated67

filmgeek47 said:


> Yeah, I'm torn. It's no returns unless defective, 1 year warranty, which seems a bit iffy. The higher price of the Epson is fine for me as it's what I was planning to pay anyway, but I'd hate to pay substantially more for less (or the same) performance. My setup is well light controlled (dark navy matte walls and ceiling no windows) but I appreciated the peak brightness of the Epson in the admittedly awkward demo I got of it at Best Buy. For HDR purposes the lumens difference might be relevant.


How far from the screen will either projector be positioned, plus it’s a 120” screen but is it white or gray and what’s the gain as these will affect brightness especially when watching HDR content.


----------



## filmgeek47

Luminated67 said:


> How far from the screen will either projector be positioned, plus it’s a 120” screen but is it white or gray and what’s the gain as these will affect brightness especially when watching HDR content.


Silver ticket 1.0 gain white. I'd have to double check the measurement but I believe it's about 13' from the lens to the screen.

Luminated, you had a HW40es before you upgraded, right? How big a jump was a the contrast/black levels by comparison with the 5050ub?


----------



## chaosfourever

Should I feel bad about using natural over digital cinema? Digital cinema can look good and has the P3 color, but using natural with some tweaked settings just makes the picture look so much more vibrant. Even when I am in a completely dark room natural just looks so much better. Plus with natural I can use medium lamp. Maybe with P3 I just dont know what I am looking for or maybe I am so conditioned to brighter screens, but digital cinema seems dark.


----------



## Luminated67

filmgeek47 said:


> Silver ticket 1.0 gain white. I'd have to double check the measurement but I believe it's about 13' from the lens to the screen.
> 
> Luminated, you had a HW40es before you upgraded, right? How big a jump was a the contrast/black levels by comparison with the 5050ub?


I had the HW45es, not sure how much of an improvement it’s blacks were over the 40es but the Epson is better than the 45es though I wouldn’t say it’s a huge improvement, where the Epson scores BIG TIME over my Sony was with 4K and HDR.

I’ve spoke with @MississippiMan about either painting my existing 16:9 screen or building a new 21:9 and painting it, according to him I will notice an improvement in blacks without affecting the white so for a very modest outlay I will approach 440 levels of blacks with all the benefits of the Epson’s HDR.

Win win in my book, all I need to do is win over the wife as it requires spraying in situ something she isn’t that keen with.


----------



## Luminated67

chaosfourever said:


> Should I feel bad about using natural over digital cinema? Digital cinema can look good and has the P3 color, but using natural with some tweaked settings just makes the picture look so much more vibrant. Even when I am in a completely dark room natural just looks so much better. Plus with natural I can use medium lamp. Maybe with P3 I just dont know what I am looking for or maybe I am so conditioned to brighter screens, but digital cinema seems dark.


I think you are conditioned to looking at overtly bright screens. I bet if a calibrator came in a calibrated your natural setting properly you’d hate it and find it too dull, you just need to recondition what you are use to.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> I had the HW45es, not sure how much of an improvement it’s blacks were over the 40es but the Epson is better than the 45es though I wouldn’t say it’s a huge improvement, where the Epson scores BIG TIME over my Sony was with 4K and HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I’ve spoke with @MississippiMan about either painting my existing 16:9 screen or building a new 21:9 and painting it, according to him I will notice an improvement in blacks without affecting the white so for a very modest outlay I will approach 440 levels of blacks with all the benefits of the Epson’s HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Win win in my book, all I need to do is win over the wife as it requires spraying in situ something she isn’t that keen with.


If you're on the fence about a painted screen, having one myself, I can tell you it's comparable to screens that cost several thousand dollars, not to mention you don't have to deal with black bars when switching between aspect ratios. I got my Black Flame Interstellar through MississippiMan. He was VERY helpful through the entire painting process. It's a very nice gray color, so it shouldn't be a hard sell to the wife. That's what mine looks like. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## schmidtwi

I've been lurking here for awhile and hearing all the good things about this unit. I've had a 5040 for 3 years, and love it (except for the 30Hz HDR limitation)...


I couldn't resist the 5050UB price reduction on Amazon, and I had the green light from the better half. So my new 5050 will be delivered Wednesday - can't wait to set it up and tweak to my liking.


I have a dedicated HT with a 155" x 74" Seymour Center Stage XD screen - roughly 2.1:1, to maximize 2:39 and 16:9 content. The 5040 had no problem with HDR on that large screen, so the 5050 should be even better. I'll report back when I get the 5050 tweaked. My 5040 is for sale in the AVS classifieds.



Thanks everyone for the great input on this unit!


----------



## jaredmwright

schmidtwi said:


> I've been lurking here for awhile and hearing all the good things about this unit. I've had a 5040 for 3 years, and love it (except for the 30Hz HDR limitation)...
> 
> 
> I couldn't resist the 5050UB price reduction on Amazon, and I had the green light from the better half. So my new 5050 will be delivered Wednesday - can't wait to set it up and tweak to my liking.
> 
> 
> I have a dedicated HT with a 155" x 74" Seymour Center Stage XD screen - roughly 2.1:1, to maximize 2:39 and 16:9 content. The 5040 had no problem with HDR on that large screen, so the 5050 should be even better. I'll report back when I get the 5050 tweaked. My 5040 is for sale in the AVS classifieds.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for the great input on this unit!


My 6050ub just arrived tonight. It is going into a home theater room with a 175" diagonal Carl Flexiwhite screen replacing my 5 year old 5030ub with just over 1000hrs on it. Can't wait to mount it and get it dialed in! I will also be posting my projector for sale. I had added a gofanco 4K-1080P scaler to allow me to get Atmos and higher quality from my sources than 1080P which held me.over up until this point. Looking forward to the ability to have HDR and better contrast, although I will be honest that I was always very happy with my current setup and have no real complaints so really am looking forward to this new upgrade.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jaredmwright said:


> My 6050ub just arrived tonight. It is going into a home theater room with a 175" diagonal Carl Flexiwhite screen replacing my 5 year old 5030ub with just over 1000hrs on it. Can't wait to mount it and get it dialed in! I will also be posting my projector for sale. I had added a gofanco 4K-1080P scaler to allow me to get Atmos and higher quality from my sources than 1080P which held me.over up until this point. Looking forward to the ability to have HDR and better contrast, although I will be honest that I was always very happy with my current setup and have no real complaints so really am looking forward to this new upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Are your front left and right speakers horizontally under the screen?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

skylarlove1999 said:


> Are your front left and right speakers horizontally under the screen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes the L/C/R are horizontal directly below the screen under the screen. Less than ideal for sure, the taller part in the middle is covering outlets in the wall currently and purely cosmetic, the speakers are in line and angled at the primary viewing/seating positions. 

I would like to do an acoustic screen in the future and place the speakers directly behind the screen as others have done, centered across the screen. It will require some framing and effort to make happen so it's on the never ending priority list. I want to be able to open it like a garage door to access the rear of the screen when I do if that makes sense. Been slowly getting into this hobby a little more each year and try to stay on a reasonable budget if that's possible, lol. Originally had a 120" screen and it looked way too small in the room, then went to a painted wall at 175" with nothing but speakers and some seating, ending up where I am now. The rear seating is raised, with transducers in the seats. I have a plan in the future to add a second row in front on the lower level, right now just have some large Love SACs to sit in the for kids and guests.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## wcaughey

Those that may have used a PCMD mount, any idea approximately what the horizontal distance is between the back of the ceiling plate and the rear of the rear most part of the projector?

I'll be using the PCMD 8-Inch Extension. Sounds like others here had good experience with the PCMD mount, too. Trying to do some calculations for my ceiling mount location before my new 5050ub shows up to replace my aging Optoma HD25-LV


----------



## Biggydeen

Finally got my tw-9400 back after 6-8 weeks of waiting to get the "dead pixel" fixed. Turns out the dead blue pixel was actually a dust particle that was stuck in the optics lol... That was an expansive dust particle...

I was wondering if there are some decent calibrated settings for the 6050ub/tw9400? I know calibrated setting are always personal due to the environment but the colours out of the box are not that great. They look a bit washed out on my screen.


----------



## IslaTurbine

@jaredmwright

Where did you purchase your 6050 from?


----------



## Luminated67

Biggydeen said:


> Finally got my tw-9400 back after 6-8 weeks of waiting to get the "dead pixel" fixed. Turns out the dead blue pixel was actually a dust particle that was stuck in the optics lol... That was an expansive dust particle...
> 
> I was wondering if there are some decent calibrated settings for the 6050ub/tw9400? I know calibrated setting are always personal due to the environment but the colours out of the box are not that great. They look a bit washed out on my screen.


There is problem with thinking that there's a generic setup for each projector because there simply isn't, each projector/screen/room has it's own adjustments to bring it into line, in the case of mine both the brightness and contrast are at 50, colour temp 6500 and skin tone 4, even the RGB offset and gains aren't that far away from default with the grayscale is tracking quite close to default too. Another machine's setup could require quite different tweaks.

Of course HDR requires a completely different set of adjustments but even then mine still stay closer to default than other settings I have seen on line.


----------



## MississippiMan

jaredmwright said:


> Yes the L/C/R are horizontal directly below the screen under the screen. Less than ideal for sure, the taller part in the middle is covering outlets in the wall currently and purely cosmetic, the speakers are in line and angled at the primary viewing/seating positions.
> 
> I would like to do an acoustic screen in the future and place the speakers directly behind the screen as others have done, centered across the screen. It will require some framing and effort to make happen so it's on the never ending priority list. I want to be able to open it like a garage door to access the rear of the screen when I do if that makes sense.


Shucks Guy.....


Not much framing at all, and certainly not all that much effort. Come on over to DIY Screens and we can show you some easily done methods that will meet your criteria.


Ya simply gotta get those Speakers correctly placed!


----------



## jaredmwright

IslaTurbine said:


> @jaredmwright
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you purchase your 6050 from?


I purchased a refurbished unit on eBay. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Sign up for Disney Plus. Just do it right now. They have 4K HDR10 versions of all the Star Wars films Episodes 1-7. And all the Marvel Avengers movies.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> Sign up for Disney Plus. Just do it right now. They have 4K HDR10 versions of all the Star Wars films Episodes 1-7. And all the Marvel Avengers movies.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'm gonna download now and see how it looks on the 5050! Has anyone tried yet??

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> I'm gonna download now and see how it looks on the 5050! Has anyone tried yet??
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


I am watching right now hdr's little dark so I had to turn mine up a bit but the picture looks pretty amazing in the sounds not bad as long as you turn it up

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am watching right now hdr's little dark so I had to turn mine up a bit but the picture looks pretty amazing in the sounds not bad as long as you turn it up
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



This is almost too much to process.


----------



## olegg

Do they outline deadline for the trial on Disney Plus?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> This is almost too much to process.


Exactly my thoughts

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

olegg said:


> Do they outline deadline for the trial on Disney Plus?


It is a 7-Day free trial

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> This is almost too much to process.


 The naturally lit outdoor scenes seem to have the most uptick in detail and color.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> This is almost too much to process.


ROTJ looks the best, to my eyes, of the three. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## olegg

skylarlove1999 said:


> It is a 7-Day free trial
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


What I meant deadline for the trial itself. I might not need it now but certainly would like to try it after I finish HT room.


----------



## skylarlove1999

olegg said:


> What I meant deadline for the trial itself. I might not need it now but certainly would like to try it after I finish HT room.


LOL my bad. I would imagine a free trial will be out there probably forever just like Netflix

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Mors78

Hi all,
I have a 6050ub and have an odd issue. All my sources are connected to my AVR (Anthem MRX710) but when I try to play Xbox One S after around 20 minutes the projectors turns off. Doesn't look like overheating as I can turn it on again without having to wait and when it happens the room temp is in the 68-71 range. With other sources I can use it for hours without issues.

Also, I have been looking for firmware updates but can't find where to download them. 

thanks!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Mors78 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have a 6050ub and have an odd issue. All my sources are connected to my AVR (Anthem MRX710) but when I try to play Xbox One S after around 20 minutes the projectors turns off. Doesn't look like overheating as I can turn it on again without having to wait and when it happens the room temp is in the 68-71 range. With other sources I can use it for hours without issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I have been looking for firmware updates but can't find where to download them.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks!


Sounds like the projector perceives a lost signal from your Xbox One S so it shuts itself off.

Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) is a feature of HDMI  designed to control HDMI connected devices, by using only one REMOTE, individual CEC enabled devices can command and control each other without user intervention, for up to 15 devices. Sometimes this can cause the issue you are experiencing. I would shut off CEC on all devices AVR, Xbox and projector. See if that solves the issue. This would be my first inclination. 

Next I would try switching the HDMI cable that connects the Xbox to your AVR with another HDMI CABLE that is connected to another source that doesn't shut down the projector. If that doesn't fix it then I would try connecting Xbox to another input on the AVR. sounds like the projector is going to sleep. Not sure why exactly. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> ROTJ looks the best, to my eyes, of the three.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'm guessing IV-VI are still the Special Editions "enhanced" by George, right?


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> I'm guessing IV-VI are still the Special Editions "enhanced" by George, right?


Unfortunately yes . Greedo still shoots first. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> Unfortunately yes . Greedo still shoots first.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you sir. I'll stick with my de-specialized editions. Hopefully the group that provides these will get a hold of 4K sources and get them out for those of us who don't care for all the "enhancements". Still very nice that Disney got these out there for us to enjoy!


----------



## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> Thank you sir. I'll stick with my de-specialized editions. Hopefully the group that provides these will get a hold of 4K sources and get them out for those of us who don't care for all the "enhancements". Still very nice that Disney got these out there for us to enjoy!


I wonder who controls the original trilogy with no changes. I have to assume for 4 billion dollars that Disney got all versions of all movies. I think they did this obviously to attract people to their streaming channel and generate even more buzz. I do think that the 4K disc releases will include the unaltered original trilogy. Finally Han will shoot first again. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jeahrens

skylarlove1999 said:


> I wonder who controls the original trilogy with no changes. I have to assume for 4 billion dollars that Disney got all versions of all movies. I think they did this obviously to attract people to their streaming channel and generate even more buzz. I do think that the 4K disc releases will include the unaltered original trilogy. Finally Han will shoot first again.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


If they sell a 4K version of the OT without the enhancements, they'd be able to charge about whatever they wanted. Disney has full ownership of all of them after the Fox acquisition. The de-specialized editions are non-profit efforts by fans that fall under fair use. Honestly they look and sound pretty darn good too. A lot of the material is sourced from the Blu Ray.

If you're old enough to remember Star Wars before it was Episode IV, there's the Silver Screen Edition floating around too. It's a scan of a private collectors original print of the film. So it's just like it was in the theater, warts and all!


----------



## chaosfourever

Luminated67 said:


> I think you are conditioned to looking at overtly bright screens. I bet if a calibrator came in a calibrated your natural setting properly you’d hate it and find it too dull, you just need to recondition what you are use to.


So then what does the HDR10 slider do? I feel like the only way to use digital cinema is to turn the slider to like 4. Having it at about 8 is just so dark. Does moving the slider hurt my black levels or affect other items?


----------



## Luminated67

chaosfourever said:


> So then what does the HDR10 slider do? I feel like the only way to use digital cinema is to turn the slider to like 4. Having it at about 8 is just so dark. Does moving the slider hurt my black levels or affect other items?


What’s your bluray player? Most of us are using some version of a Panasonic because of their auto tonal mapping, for me my HDR slider is set once and the Panasonic takes over the adjusting but you need to set the SDR lumens so that you are balancing the light output over all modes. In my case the Iris is closed down to -16 for SDR (1080p content) where as on HDR it’s at -2 due to the colour filter on Cinema mode roughly halving the light output.

I’m not saying everyone wants to spend the expense of getting their projector calibrated but if you do you then know each mode is going to perform at their best plus with my calibrator also set up a bright HDR mode which behaves more like a OLED TV, the kids love this mode though for me it’s too bright and after 15 mins I’m ready to tear my eyes out. LOL


----------



## Mors78

skylarlove1999 said:


> Sounds like the projector perceives a lost signal from your Xbox One S so it shuts itself off.
> 
> Consumer Electronics Control (CEC) is a feature of HDMI  designed to control HDMI connected devices, by using only one REMOTE, individual CEC enabled devices can command and control each other without user intervention, for up to 15 devices. Sometimes this can cause the issue you are experiencing. I would shut off CEC on all devices AVR, Xbox and projector. See if that solves the issue. This would be my first inclination.
> 
> Next I would try switching the HDMI cable that connects the Xbox to your AVR with another HDMI CABLE that is connected to another source that doesn't shut down the projector. If that doesn't fix it then I would try connecting Xbox to another input on the AVR. sounds like the projector is going to sleep. Not sure why exactly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the reply. My first though was also same about lost signal but when I looked at the timeout settings on the projector it doesn't match the amount of time it stays on. but i'll give your suggestions a try. thanks

Any idea where can I find firmware updates for the 6050ub?


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> What’s your bluray player? Most of us are using some version of a Panasonic because of their auto tonal mapping, for me my HDR slider is set once and the Panasonic takes over the adjusting but you need to set the SDR lumens so that you are balancing the light output over all modes. In my case the Iris is closed down to -16 for SDR (1080p content) where as on HDR it’s at -2 due to the colour filter on Cinema mode roughly halving the light output.
> 
> 
> 
> I’m not saying everyone wants to spend the expense of getting their projector calibrated but if you do you then know each mode is going to perform at their best plus with my calibrator also set up a bright HDR mode which behaves more like a OLED TV, the kids love this mode though for me it’s too bright and after 15 mins I’m ready to tear my eyes out. LOL


The guy who calibrated my 5050, actually has my Panasonic UHD player set to SDR on the 5050, because he said the Panasonic does a better job handling the HDR, over the 5050. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Cypres0099

Hey All,

I've decided to get a 5050ub with a Chief ceiling mount for my new home theater setup. I've been reading through the thousands of posts in this thread and I'm *very confused about ceiling mounts*.

It seems that some of the model numbers of Chief mounts may have changed since this thread started.

I went over to legrandav.com and used the Mount Finder for 5050ub

There's a bunch of options there and a few things that I don't understand.

1. All of the brackets on that page include an RPA (generic part for positional adjustments) and SLB (specific mount for the projector model), but what I don't understand is how these things attach to the ceiling. It seems like there needs to be an additional accessory added to mount it to the ceiling.

2. Can I pick basically any mount from that page, or are there important differences. NOTE: *My ceiling has wooden joists running parallel to the screen, so I was thinking two screws into the joist should do the trick.*

3. In order to minimize the need for keystone adjustments, should I also be opting for the pipe extensions?

4. Once I figure out exactly which one (and any extra parts I need), where the heck do you buy these things? They seem hard to find. Is ebay the best place that's not through a dealer?

Edit: This mount from BH Photo for example, if I ordered that item and that alone, would it work?

Edit 2: Or does it need to be paired with some sort of ceiling plate, in my case something that would mount to a joist like the Dual Joist Ceiling Mount or the Internal Joist Ceiling Kit? 

It's seeming now that it would requires 1) the projector mount (RPA+SLB), 2) a ceiling plate/joist mount, and 3) a pip connector to go between the mount and the ceiling plate. Am I getting warm?

Planned space for 120" screen


----------



## cadiburns

Trying to figure out if I upgrade or not. Still rocking an Epson 5010 for almost 8 years now and it has served me well. Was hoping Epson would have a native 4K projector by now but after diving in a bit it seems the 5050 is not missing much. Would the 5050 be a significant upgrade over the 5010? Worth it to wait? And on top of that , is the 6050 worth the $1200 over a 5050? Thanks.


----------



## biglen

cadiburns said:


> Trying to figure out if I upgrade or not. Still rocking an Epson 5010 for almost 8 years now and it has served me well. Was hoping Epson would have a native 4K projector by now but after diving in a bit it seems the 5050 is not missing much. Would the 5050 be a significant upgrade over the 5010? Worth it to wait? And on top of that , is the 6050 worth the $1200 over a 5050? Thanks.


Someone with a 4k native projector saw my 5050 image in person, and said to the naked eye, he couldn't tell the difference between the two, unless he got close up to the screen. He said the native 4k projector definitely wouldn't be worth paying twice as much as the 5050. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Imjaybird

Cypres0099 said:


> Hey All,
> 
> I've decided to get a 5050ub with a Chief ceiling mount for my new home theater setup. I've been reading through the thousands of posts in this thread and I'm *very confused about ceiling mounts*.
> 
> It seems that some of the model numbers of Chief mounts may have changed since this thread started.
> 
> I went over to legrandav.com and used the Mount Finder for 5050ub
> 
> There's a bunch of options there and a few things that I don't understand.
> 
> 1. All of the brackets on that page include an RPA (generic part for positional adjustments) and SLB (specific mount for the projector model), but what I don't understand is how these things attach to the ceiling. It seems like there needs to be an additional accessory added to mount it to the ceiling.
> 
> 2. Can I pick basically any mount from that page, or are there important differences. NOTE: *My ceiling has wooden joists running parallel to the screen, so I was thinking two screws into the joist should do the trick.*
> 
> 3. In order to minimize the need for keystone adjustments, should I also be opting for the pipe extensions?
> 
> 4. Once I figure out exactly which one (and any extra parts I need), where the heck do you buy these things? They seem hard to find. Is ebay the best place that's not through a dealer?
> 
> Edit: This mount from BH Photo for example, if I ordered that item and that alone, would it work?
> 
> Edit 2: Or does it need to be paired with some sort of ceiling plate, in my case something that would mount to a joist like the Dual Joist Ceiling Mount or the Internal Joist Ceiling Kit?
> 
> It's seeming now that it would requires 1) the projector mount (RPA+SLB), 2) a ceiling plate/joist mount, and 3) a pip connector to go between the mount and the ceiling plate. Am I getting warm?
> 
> Planned space for 120" screen


I just went through this myself and completed my 6050 install.
1. The Chief universal mounts either directly to the ceiling through 4 slotted holes, or using the purchased separate pole mount. The different locking is just the allen key type used to prevent theft. Get the RPAU mount and enjoy.
2. I used 4 wood screws as i had a wide beam, also used a dab of locktite on all the screws.
3. No pipe extensions, the 6050 has a huge range of lens shift. Mine is mounted flush with a 166" 2.4:1 and i have 0 keystone.
4. Ebay is good or any other retail online.


----------



## skylarlove1999

cadiburns said:


> Trying to figure out if I upgrade or not. Still rocking an Epson 5010 for almost 8 years now and it has served me well. Was hoping Epson would have a native 4K projector by now but after diving in a bit it seems the 5050 is not missing much. Would the 5050 be a significant upgrade over the 5010? Worth it to wait? And on top of that , is the 6050 worth the $1200 over a 5050? Thanks.


The 5050 would be a huge upgrade. unless you need the mount as well I don't know if the 6050 would give the same value as a 5050. The 6050 does come with an extra year warranty and a free lamp, as well as the really amazing Chief mount.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Cypres0099

Imjaybird said:


> I just went through this myself and completed my 6050 install.
> 1. The Chief universal mounts either directly to the ceiling through 4 slotted holes, or using the purchased separate pole mount. The different locking is just the allen key type used to prevent theft. Get the RPAU mount and enjoy.
> 2. I used 4 wood screws as i had a wide beam, also used a dab of locktite on all the screws.
> 3. No pipe extensions, the 6050 has a huge range of lens shift. Mine is mounted flush with a 166" 2.4:1 and i have 0 keystone.
> 4. Ebay is good or any other retail online.


Awesome! Thanks for the specific answers.

If I were to mount directly to the ceiling to a single joist, do you think two screws would be enough (I have narrow joists) or should I spring for a mounting device like the one imaged below? And if I do, that's when I would need a short pipe adapter to connect the two, yes?








+







+


----------



## skylarlove1999

Cypres0099 said:


> Awesome! Thanks for the specific answers.
> 
> 
> 
> If I were to mount directly to the ceiling to a single joist, do you think two screws would be enough (I have narrow joists) or should I spring for a mounting device like the one imaged below? And if I do, that's when I would need a short pipe adapter to connect the two, yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +


I would go with the mounting solution that is more stable and secure. The piece that comes with the mount to secure it to the ceiling didn't seem solid enough to me even with four lag bolts into a ceiling joist. Here is a picture of what came with the mount.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

Those with ceiling mounts, like myself and the crazy amount of bass that shakes the house when playing movies, I am going to challenge myself with trying to do my best to isolate the vibrations. I purchased 4 of these SORBOGEL pads (black) and then with the weight of the projector making contact with the bottom of the bolt (red) with a washer (white).

Worth a try...


----------



## alvaroec

Hello,

H’ve just bought a 5050ub, but a can’t select cinemascope aspect .

With a Nvidia Shield Plex source, Interestellar and Alien Covenat 4k HDR movies, projector only allow NORMAL aspect.

Anybody knows what are i doing wrong? Manual is not very detailed...


----------



## rekbones

alvaroec said:


> Hello,
> 
> H’ve just bought a 5050ub, but a can’t select cinemascope aspect .
> 
> With a Nvidia Shield Plex source, Interestellar and Alien Covenat 4k HDR movies, projector only allow NORMAL aspect.
> 
> Anybody knows what are i doing wrong? Manual is not very detailed...


The projector is 16:9 native as it has no 2:39 scope setting per say. You need to use the zoom function to zoom the picture out to the width of your scope screen with the black bars off the screen above and below. If you have an "A" lens the 5050 doesn't support it you need the 6050 for the stretch mode.


----------



## --Sclaws

HTX^2steve said:


> Those with ceiling mounts, like myself and the crazy amount of bass that shakes the house when playing movies, I am going to challenge myself with trying to do my best to isolate the vibrations. I purchased 4 of these SORBOGEL pads (black) and then with the weight of the projector making contact with the bottom of the bolt (red) with a washer (white).
> 
> Worth a try...


I grabbed one of these isolation adapters: https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/19...im-25-mk2-isolation-mount-for-21-32-lbs-loads

It was stupid expensive, but it does work. My kids play in the room above the projector and I'd say this takes care of maybe 90% of the vibration I had without it.


----------



## chaosfourever

So I got another question. When using my apple tv 4k I go to my projector info and it says I have a 4k signal with 60hz refresh and the 4.2.2 chroma. This is great for 4k and HDR, but when I play youtube and twitch and such at 1080p my info still says 4k settings. How do I get the projector to see the 1080p proper signal. I tried doing the match dynamic range and frames, but that doesnt work. I want to utilize the 4k upscaller for the 1080p content and the proper calibration settings. Or does the apple tv do its own upscalling? Just hard to make it all look right. I have my settings for cable SDR content and 4k HDR content. Want to use my SDR settings for the 1080p content trhough my apple tv, but doesnt work.


----------



## skylarlove1999

chaosfourever said:


> So I got another question. When using my apple tv 4k I go to my projector info and it says I have a 4k signal with 60hz refresh and the 4.2.2 chroma. This is great for 4k and HDR, but when I play youtube and twitch and such at 1080p my info still says 4k settings. How do I get the projector to see the 1080p proper signal. I tried doing the match dynamic range and frames, but that doesnt work. I want to utilize the 4k upscaller for the 1080p content and the proper calibration settings. Or does the apple tv do its own upscalling? Just hard to make it all look right. I have my settings for cable SDR content and 4k HDR content. Want to use my SDR settings for the 1080p content trhough my apple tv, but doesnt work.


A4KTV has its own upscale, so does your AVR most likely and also the 5050. You can decide which one you prefer to do the upscaling. If you shut off the upscaling in the A4KTV and your AVR then the info screen on the projector should show 1080. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

--Sclaws said:


> I grabbed one of these isolation adapters: https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/19...im-25-mk2-isolation-mount-for-21-32-lbs-loads
> 
> It was stupid expensive, but it does work. My kids play in the room above the projector and I'd say this takes care of maybe 90% of the vibration I had without it.


wow...$400...I am sure you could pay someone to take your kids to a Disney park for less when you want to watch a move...


----------



## --Sclaws

HTX^2steve said:


> wow...$400...I am sure you could pay someone to take your kids to a Disney park for less when you want to watch a move...


True enough, but my projector is my "TV", not just for movies. Took me a year before I decided to try this thing. The setup will remain in my living room until my eyes turn to dirt, so I figured I'd just do it right now and not be mildly annoyed forever


----------



## tomgru

tomgru said:


> Has anyone been able to control this via LAN and a harmony remote? (vs. IR)? For the life of me I can't seen to figure out if this is possible.
> 
> thanks.


Still trying to figure it out... can the Epson be controlled via TOP at least?


----------



## Cypres0099

Imjaybird said:


> I just went through this myself and completed my 6050 install.
> 1. The Chief universal mounts either directly to the ceiling through 4 slotted holes, or using the purchased separate pole mount. The different locking is just the allen key type used to prevent theft. Get the RPAU mount and enjoy.
> 2. I used 4 wood screws as i had a wide beam, also used a dab of locktite on all the screws.
> 3. No pipe extensions, the 6050 has a huge range of lens shift. Mine is mounted flush with a 166" 2.4:1 and i have 0 keystone.
> 4. Ebay is good or any other retail online.


Is the RPAU mount the specific model number I can buy to fit the 5050ub? I found one on ebay for a good price, but it doesn't say anything about projector compatibility.


----------



## Imjaybird

Cypres0099 said:


> Awesome! Thanks for the specific answers.
> 
> If I were to mount directly to the ceiling to a single joist, do you think two screws would be enough (I have narrow joists) or should I spring for a mounting device like the one imaged below? And if I do, that's when I would need a short pipe adapter to connect the two, yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +


2 screws would be pushing it for this projector, it is fairly heavy. Yes I would get the pictured and spread the load out. Cheap insurance.The first picture will not mount directly to the projector, you will need the specific mounting plate or the universal kit.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Cypres0099 said:


> Is the RPAU mount the specific model number I can buy to fit the 5050ub? I found one on ebay for a good price, but it doesn't say anything about projector compatibility.


CHF 4000 is the white mount for the 5050. CHF 4500 is the black mount for the 6050. The mounting kit consists of a ceiling plate, 6 inch column, the mount itself and the custom interface bracket. The nice thing about the chief mount is generally all you need after buying the mount the first time is to buy the custom interface bracket for each subsequent projector purchase, no matter the projector brand. Chief also makes universal mounting plates, instead of buying the custom interface bracket each time you change projectors. Here is a short video that shows the mount. 







Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Imjaybird

Cypres0099 said:


> Is the RPAU mount the specific model number I can buy to fit the 5050ub? I found one on ebay for a good price, but it doesn't say anything about projector compatibility.


The RPAU will fit just about any projector in the medium to large size.


----------



## Imjaybird

tomgru said:


> Still trying to figure it out... can the Epson be controlled via TOP at least?


I have the harmony Ultimate one with Hub and can control it without issues.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Imjaybird said:


> The RPAU will fit just about any projector in the medium to large size.


Yes this is true. Keep in mind the RPAU generally includes the ceiling plate, the 6 inch column, the mount itself and the universal mounting plate, not the custom interface bracket. RPA usually does not include the custom interface bracket nor the universal mounting plate. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Cypres0099 said:


> Is the RPAU mount the specific model number I can buy to fit the 5050ub? I found one on ebay for a good price, but it doesn't say anything about projector compatibility.


Here is an example of a CHIEF projector mount kit. Looking at the pictures the mounting plate would be the wrong one for the 5050 but you should be able to buy the universal mounting plate to use with this kit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPSON-CHF2...173667?hash=item48d6aaf623:g:as4AAOSwNlldtK7e

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## alvaroec

*THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread*



rekbones said:


> The projector is 16:9 native as it has no 2:39 scope setting per say. You need to use the zoom function to zoom the picture out to the width of your scope screen with the black bars off the screen above and below. If you have an "A" lens the 5050 doesn't support it you need the 6050 for the stretch mode.




Ops, reviewing manual, you’re right. 

Lots of reviews and post talking about te feature of this model, tends some to understand it can do cinemascome without anamorphic lens. It result to be a memory zoom, but black bars are there.

I think this is not the super wow feature that some are expecting, many proyectors can do auto or manual zoom.

In any case, a very good device.

Thanks


----------



## Cypres0099

Thanks all for the advice on the ceiling mount. I ended up grabbing a CHF-4500 off of ebay for about $140!

Final purchase to round out this new setup is an AV Receiver in the $500-600.

Epson 5050ub
Nvidia Shield TV Pro 2019
2x Infinity Primus p162 Bookshelf Speakers
Infinity Primus PC350 Center Channel
BIC America F-12 Sub-woofer

Looking at the Yamaha RX-V685 7.2-Channel

Will this receiver work to get maximum enjoyment from that setup? It doesn't say anything about 3D compatibility. Does that mean it's not?


----------



## tomgru

Imjaybird said:


> I have the harmony Ultimate one with Hub and can control it without issues.


 I can as well... but it's using IR to the projector, and wifi-IR to the hub in another room to control my AV stack. 

Are you saying that your remote is not controlling the projector via IR?


----------



## dr bill

Cypres0099 said:


> Thanks all for the advice on the ceiling mount. I ended up grabbing a CHF-4500 off of ebay for about $140!
> 
> Final purchase to round out this new setup is an AV Receiver in the $500-600.
> 
> Epson 5050ub
> Nvidia Shield TV Pro 2019
> 2x Infinity Primus p162 Bookshelf Speakers
> Infinity Primus PC350 Center Channel
> BIC America F-12 Sub-woofer
> 
> Looking at the Yamaha RX-V685 7.2-Channel
> 
> Will this receiver work to get maximum enjoyment from that setup? It doesn't say anything about 3D compatibility. Does that mean it's not?



I purchased the Denon - AVR-X3400H, been happy with it (though I learned the hard way to NOT use the Aux1 HDMI port on the front - limits video quality).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Z9ZGSZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## amairphoto

Imjaybird said:


> I have the harmony Ultimate one with Hub and can control it without issues.


Your 5050 powers down with no issues? I can not get my Harmony to power the projector down at all.


----------



## jaredmwright

amairphoto said:


> Your 5050 powers down with no issues? I can not get my Harmony to power the projector down at all.


If your Harmony doesn't have line of site to the IR then it may not be getting the signal since the remote may not emit IR, sometimes only the hub does and you need to wire an IR transmitter to control your projector. That is what I do since my equipment is in a closet.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## amairphoto

jaredmwright said:


> If your Harmony doesn't have line of site to the IR then it may not be getting the signal since the remote may not emit IR, sometimes only the hub does and you need to wire an IR transmitter to control your projector. That is what I do since my equipment is in a closet.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Is your hub in the closet also? thats where mine is currently. Its weird because it will power the projector on and do everything else fine, it just wont power off.


----------



## lilming

amairphoto said:


> Is your hub in the closet also? thats where mine is currently. Its weird because it will power the projector on and do everything else fine, it just wont power off.


I had to change the setting where you don't need to confirm twice to go into standby on the projector. So the Hub only sends one standby press and it powers off. Otherwise, it'll send one press and you'll see the notification to press again to power off.


----------



## amairphoto

lilming said:


> I had to change the setting where you don't need to confirm twice to go into standby on the projector. So the Hub only sends one standby press and it powers off. Otherwise, it'll send one press and you'll see the notification to press again to power off.


Ah, where is that , in the Epson settings? my installer threw away my manual. I know its online but it is always way easier holding the manual and glancing through than switching from a computer etc.

I just realized what the HDR slider did today thanks to this thread. I am wondering if there are any other settings that should be set with the 5050 that I am unaware of.


----------



## tomgru

amairphoto said:


> Is your hub in the closet also? thats where mine is currently. Its weird because it will power the projector on and do everything else fine, it just wont power off.


I believe the Epson requires a second power toggle to completely turn off. On mine I see this come on the screen for a second, then turn off, so I assumed that setting up a 5050 with the Harmony software knew that was necessary and programmed in a second power off command. 

you could also easily add that to the activity and see if it works. 

(assuming, as the other posts suggest, you have IR to it working fine.). My original question is if you can control it without IR but using TCP?


----------



## lilming

tomgru said:


> I believe the Epson requires a second power toggle to completely turn off. On mine I see this come on the screen for a second, then turn off, so I assumed that setting up a 5050 with the Harmony software knew that was necessary and programmed in a second power off command.
> 
> you could also easily add that to the activity and see if it works.
> 
> (assuming, as the other posts suggest, you have IR to it working fine.). My original question is if you can control it without IR but using TCP?


In settings, Extended, Display..., Standby confirmation, you can turn off the confirmation screen. Or as the other post mentioned, figure out a way for the hub to send the second power off.


----------



## Biggydeen

I'm still having issues with focusing the image on my 6050ub. The picture is just not sharp. When accessing the menu (without any source attached) it looks sharp but it's not. No matter how much i try to focus. It's just not sharp/focussed. This is really noticeable when attaching an PC as the main source. When i'm playing a game on 4k resolution it should be razor sharp but it's not. But for some reason when playing the youtube video "Costa Rica" 4k it looks razor sharp.

I had the exact same problem with my first 6050ub (this is my second unit). 

Is this something related to videocards, windows in general? I got no other sources to check right now.

Anyone else having this problem when a PC or laptop is attached?

P.s. not using any keystone correction or anything. Only using lens shift. Placed around 5 - 5.5m on a 120 inch screen.


----------



## MJ DOOM

Biggydeen said:


> I'm still having issues with focusing the image on my 6050ub. The picture is just not sharp. When accessing the menu (without any source attached) it looks sharp but it's not. No matter how much i try to focus. It's just not sharp/focussed. This is really noticeable when attaching an PC as the main source. When i'm playing a game on 4k resolution it should be razor sharp but it's not. But for some reason when playing the youtube video "Costa Rica" 4k it looks razor sharp.
> 
> I had the exact same problem with my first 6050ub (this is my second unit).
> 
> Is this something related to videocards, windows in general? I got no other sources to check right now.
> 
> Anyone else having this problem when a PC or laptop is attached?
> 
> P.s. not using any keystone correction or anything. Only using lens shift. Placed around 5 - 5.5m on a 120 inch screen.


Set the PC to 1080p and see how that looks. After that toggle 4k enhancement on and off to see if it improves even more.


----------



## rjguk

Normally you'd focus the projector by getting up close to the screen and making sure the pixels are in focus. There is only one thing to do and that's to get them clearly in focus.


Everything else is down to the image that is sent to the PJ, if it is low resolution then there's nothing that can be done via the focus mechanism to improve it. You need to check the output settings on the PC and make sure the PJ is getting the best feed. It may be that the image resolution is a lot less than you think it is due to a setting or limitation on the video output. Note that you must use HDMI1 on the PJ for 4K material.



You can see what sort of signal the PJ is getting if you go into the menu and choose 'Info'. More information about what you get on that screen and your setup would also be useful.


----------



## Biggydeen

rjguk said:


> Normally you'd focus the projector by getting up close to the screen and making sure the pixels are in focus. There is only one thing to do and that's to get them clearly in focus.
> 
> 
> Everything else is down to the image that is sent to the PJ, if it is low resolution then there's nothing that can be done via the focus mechanism to improve it. You need to check the output settings on the PC and make sure the PJ is getting the best feed. It may be that the image resolution is a lot less than you think it is due to a setting or limitation on the video output. Note that you must use HDMI1 on the PJ for 4K material.
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what sort of signal the PJ is getting if you go into the menu and choose 'Info'. More information about what you get on that screen and your setup would also be useful.


Settings from that menu:

Source HDMI 1
Input Signal: Component
Resolution 3840x2160
scan mode Progressive
refresh rate 60hz
Color dept: 12 bit 4:2:2
Color format: BT.2020 HDR10

I'm using a DIY painted screen. Had no problem focusing my older projector on this screen. 

Other PC settings:

Native 4k
Output color dept 12 bpc
Output color format: YCbCr422

That are pretty much all settings.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rjguk said:


> Normally you'd focus the projector by getting up close to the screen and making sure the pixels are in focus. There is only one thing to do and that's to get them clearly in focus.
> 
> 
> Everything else is down to the image that is sent to the PJ, if it is low resolution then there's nothing that can be done via the focus mechanism to improve it. You need to check the output settings on the PC and make sure the PJ is getting the best feed. It may be that the image resolution is a lot less than you think it is due to a setting or limitation on the video output. Note that you must use HDMI1 on the PJ for 4K material.
> 
> 
> 
> You can see what sort of signal the PJ is getting if you go into the menu and choose 'Info'. More information about what you get on that screen and your setup would also be useful.


Please note HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 in the projector are identical in terms of resolution and frame rate capability. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

Does the 5050UB have the constant image height feature?


----------



## rjguk

Biggydeen said:


> Settings from that menu:
> 
> Source HDMI 1
> Input Signal: Component
> Resolution 3840x2160
> scan mode Progressive
> refresh rate 60hz
> Color dept: 12 bit 4:2:2
> Color format: BT.2020 HDR10
> 
> I'm using a DIY painted screen. Had no problem focusing my older projector on this screen.
> 
> Other PC settings:
> 
> Native 4k
> Output color dept 12 bpc
> Output color format: YCbCr422
> 
> That are pretty much all settings.



So the signal being delivered is fine. But you say you can't get the PJ in focus.


To me that means the physical focus of the lens, but perhaps you are talking about the apparent sharpness of the image after that. I'm not sure what to suggest now so let's try to clear up the physical focus first. If you project the menu can you get right up close to the screen and adjust the focus to get the pixel grid sharp and clear? Once that's done you leave it alone unless moving the PJ. If that's sharp then the issue may be something to do with the image, but one step at a time.


----------



## Biggydeen

rjguk said:


> So the signal being delivered is fine. But you say you can't get the PJ in focus.
> 
> 
> To me that means the physical focus of the lens, but perhaps you are talking about the apparent sharpness of the image after that. I'm not sure what to suggest now so let's try to clear up the physical focus first. If you project the menu can you get right up close to the screen and adjust the focus to get the pixel grid sharp and clear? Once that's done you leave it alone unless moving the PJ. If that's sharp then the issue may be something to do with the image, but one step at a time.


Well, that is exactly the problem. I cannot focus the pixel grid upclose. It's always a little blurry no matter how much I try to focus. I can't see any clear pixel (grid). It's just blurry. Had the same problem with my first unit and that was actually the reason I returned it.

But now this second unit has exactly the same problem. So i'm wondering what i'm doing wrong.


----------



## jch2

Try focusing with a 1080p (HD) signal and 4k enhancement turned off (so no diagonal pixel shifting). 4k enhancement is on by default and makes focusing harder because edges become jaggy due to the diagonal pixel shifting. You should be able to get a better focus result with 4k enhancement off because you can then see individual pixels and the LCD screen door spacing between them when standing up close to the screen.

If you can't get a razor sharp focus, you might have a bad screen, a bad projector. Or, if you have a projector in a separate room behind projection glass like I do, it could be dirty or poor quality glass. Remove the glass and see how it looks. If that fixes it, clean the glass, or get a piece of glass made for projectors that is optically transparent.


----------



## noob00224

HTX^2steve said:


> Does the 5050UB have the constant image height feature?


Constant image height means you can use the zoom to achieve the same height on all video materials, if the screen allows it.
In you have a 16:9 screen with a 2.35:1 image, zooming to match the height of the image with that of the screen would result in the left and right edges of the projected image being outside the screen.
The CIH feature is used with a 2.35:1 (or other) format screen. One zoom position for 2.35:1 video, and a smaller zoom for 16:9 format, for example.


----------



## HTX^2steve

noob00224 said:


> Constant image height means you can use the zoom to achieve the same height on all video materials, if the screen allows it.
> In you have a 16:9 screen with a 2.35:1 image, zooming to match the height of the image with that of the screen would result in the left and right edges of the projected image being outside the screen.
> The CIH feature is used with a 2.35:1 (or other) format screen. One zoom position for 2.35:1 video, and a smaller zoom for 16:9 format, for example.


I think what I am thinking would be that anamorphic lens thingy setting that the 6050 has....the feature where whatever aspect content you send to the PJ it will keep it in that aspect.


----------



## noob00224

HTX^2steve said:


> I think what I am thinking would be that anamorphic lens thingy setting that the 6050 has....the feature where whatever aspect content you send to the PJ it will keep it in that aspect.


That feature is to be used with an anamorphic lens only. It stretches whatever image format to 16:9 and then the anamorphic lens converts it to it's ratio.

Modifying the proportions of a video, stretching, can be done withing a video player, but the image would look strange since the proportions have been altered.


----------



## rekbones

Biggydeen said:


> Well, that is exactly the problem. I cannot focus the pixel grid upclose. It's always a little blurry no matter how much I try to focus. I can't see any clear pixel (grid). It's just blurry. Had the same problem with my first unit and that was actually the reason I returned it.
> 
> But now this second unit has exactly the same problem. So i'm wondering what i'm doing wrong.


The fact that two different projectors behave the same is very suspicious. To eliminate the possibility that your painted screen has too much texture to resolve the 1080p image try putting a plain piece of copy paper on the screen to see if it looks in focus.


----------



## ckronengold

*Fan noise getting worse?*

Maybe i'm losing my mind a little, but I feel like the fan noise on my 5050 is getting steadily louder. 

When I first got it, I didn't think the fan noise was all that loud at all. Other than in the quietest of scenes, I didn't hear the fan. 

But lately I'm being distracted by it more and more. I didn't think that Hobbs and Shaw would have been a movie that I heard fan noise from 8' in front of the fan. 

Just me?


----------



## jaredmwright

ckronengold said:


> Maybe i'm losing my mind a little, but I feel like the fan noise on my 5050 is getting steadily louder.
> 
> 
> 
> When I first got it, I didn't think the fan noise was all that loud at all. Other than in the quietest of scenes, I didn't hear the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> But lately I'm being distracted by it more and more. I didn't think that Hobbs and Shaw would have been a movie that I heard fan noise from 8' in front of the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> Just me?


Did you change your settings for video? Depending on the mode the fan will operate at a higher speed if the lamp runs brighter.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

jaredmwright said:


> Did you change your settings for video? Depending on the mode the fan will operate at a higher speed if the lamp runs brighter.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Nope. Everything is the same. Haven't touched a thing other than switching between my SDR mode and my HDR mode. Its just something I feel like I notice a lot more than I did 2 months ago. 

When I first got the 5050, I don't remember thinking that it was particularly loud. In fact, I may have even commented somewhere in one of the 5050 threads that it wasn't loud at all. But now I feel like its pretty damn loud. 

Could just be me. Operator Error. id10t error, y'know?


----------



## jaredmwright

ckronengold said:


> Nope. Everything is the same. Haven't touched a thing other than switching between my SDR mode and my HDR mode. Its just something I feel like I notice a lot more than I did 2 months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> When I first got the 5050, I don't remember thinking that it was particularly loud. In fact, I may have even commented somewhere in one of the 5050 threads that it wasn't loud at all. But now I feel like its pretty damn loud.
> 
> 
> 
> Could just be me. Operator Error. id10t error, y'know?


Yeah, I have the 6050ub, I will use a phone app to measure the DB of my fan and report back. Maybe you can do the same and we can compare. I run mine in eco in a light controlled dedicated movie room.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Biggydeen said:


> Well, that is exactly the problem. I cannot focus the pixel grid upclose. It's always a little blurry no matter how much I try to focus. I can't see any clear pixel (grid). It's just blurry. Had the same problem with my first unit and that was actually the reason I returned it.
> 
> 
> 
> But now this second unit has exactly the same problem. So i'm wondering what i'm doing wrong.


Where are you at as far as distance between the screen and projector? Maybe the projector is just a little too far from the screen? How is the projector mounted? Would you say it's mounted towards the top third of the screen?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Nope. Everything is the same. Haven't touched a thing other than switching between my SDR mode and my HDR mode. Its just something I feel like I notice a lot more than I did 2 months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> When I first got the 5050, I don't remember thinking that it was particularly loud. In fact, I may have even commented somewhere in one of the 5050 threads that it wasn't loud at all. But now I feel like its pretty damn loud.
> 
> 
> 
> Could just be me. Operator Error. id10t error, y'know?


You sir are no idiot. As the weather gets colder items become more rigid and tend to rattle more. Carseats in my car as an example. Sounds tend to travel further in less humid cooler conditions. Could just be the change of seasons affect on sound IMHO. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Biggydeen

biglen said:


> Where are you at as far as distance between the screen and projector? Maybe the projector is just a little too far from the screen? How is the projector mounted? Would you say it's mounted towards the top third of the screen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


The projector is placed on a shelf in the back of the room. My ceiling is to high and too rigid to support this projector. It's about 5 meters from the screen (120 inch). I'm sitting about 3.5m from the screen. Need to use some lens shift to get the picture on the screen. 

My last budget beamer had no trouble focussing. Since this projector costed more then 2.3K i'm kind of dissapointed in it's performance. The picture and colors are great. But that does't matter if I can't focus 100%. Not sure whats going on here. 

Also the source is not the problem. When I'm just looking at the menu without any source attached I still have the same problem. It looks like the allignment of the three colors is just way off. That might be because I cannot focus 100%. But when i'm using the panel allignment option all lines are just blurry lines. No straight pixels at all. 

See attachment. This is the best focus I can get. You can clearly see that it's blurry. And the colors are not alligned at all. Although you can see it more clear in the photo than realtime. 

Anyway, my first unit had exactly the same problem. Must be something wrong here or i'm missing something...


----------



## biglen

Biggydeen said:


> The projector is placed on a shelf in the back of the room. My ceiling is to high and too rigid to support this projector. It's about 5 meters from the screen (120 inch). I'm sitting about 3.5m from the screen. Need to use some lens shift to get the picture on the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> My last budget beamer had no trouble focussing. Since this projector costed more then 2.3K i'm kind of dissapointed in it's performance. The picture and colors are great. But that does't matter if I can't focus 100%. Not sure whats going on here.
> 
> 
> 
> Also the source is not the problem. When I'm just looking at the menu without any source attached I still have the same problem. It looks like the allignment of the three colors is just way off. That might be because I cannot focus 100%. But when i'm using the panel allignment option all lines are just blurry lines. No straight pixels at all.
> 
> 
> 
> See attachment. This is the best focus I can get. You can clearly see that it's blurry. And the colors are not alligned at all. Although you can see it more clear in the photo than realtime.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, my first unit had exactly the same problem. Must be something wrong here or i'm missing something...


How much lens shift are you using? It does have a point where if you use too much, the picture will suffer. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MJ DOOM

Biggydeen said:


> biglen said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where are you at as far as distance between the screen and projector? Maybe the projector is just a little too far from the screen? How is the projector mounted? Would you say it's mounted towards the top third of the screen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> The projector is placed on a shelf in the back of the room. My ceiling is to high and too rigid to support this projector. It's about 5 meters from the screen (120 inch). I'm sitting about 3.5m from the screen. Need to use some lens shift to get the picture on the screen.
> 
> My last budget beamer had no trouble focussing. Since this projector costed more then 2.3K i'm kind of dissapointed in it's performance. The picture and colors are great. But that does't matter if I can't focus 100%. Not sure whats going on here.
> 
> Also the source is not the problem. When I'm just looking at the menu without any source attached I still have the same problem. It looks like the allignment of the three colors is just way off. That might be because I cannot focus 100%. But when i'm using the panel allignment option all lines are just blurry lines. No straight pixels at all.
> 
> See attachment. This is the best focus I can get. You can clearly see that it's blurry. And the colors are not alligned at all. Although you can see it more clear in the photo than realtime.
> 
> Anyway, my first unit had exactly the same problem. Must be something wrong here or i'm missing something...
Click to expand...

Me and another poster already mentioned putting your PC in 1080p, with 4k enhancement turn off. Have you tried it yet?


----------



## IslaTurbine

FWIW, I believe that sound travels faster in more humid conditions. That’s why you can hear a train or other loud noise in the distance on a foggy day but never hear it on a sunny day. 


On another note, would anyone here be willing to do me a solid? If you own a 6050, could you turn some ceiling lights on at the far end of the room away from the screen and snap a pic of something playing on-screen? It would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## skylarlove1999

IslaTurbine said:


> FWIW, I believe that sound travels faster in more humid conditions. That’s why you can hear a train or other loud noise in the distance on a foggy day but never hear it on a sunny day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On another note, would anyone here be willing to do me a solid? If you own a 6050, could you turn some ceiling lights on at the far end of the room away from the screen and snap a pic of something playing on-screen? It would be greatly appreciated.


Sound travels faster in humid air but travels further in cold air. 

https://curiosity.com/topics/heres-why-sound-carries-farther-on-cold-days-curiosity/

As for the picture you asked for many things can affect projected image : wall coverings/color, floor material/color, ceiling material/color and of course the screen material and throw distance.

Yes ambient light in the room could cause some degradation in picture quality but more likely the other items mentioned would be the cause of degradation, not some lights on in the back of a room. Obviously what you are watching with lights on will also be impacted differently . The lamp mode and color mode will also be variables that you will not necessarily know unless you obtain that from the people who post pictures. The room conditions I mentioned would also be variables in any picture taken of the projected image. My meandering way of saying I am not sure this would be the best way for you to judge how ambient light effects the image quality. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## IslaTurbine

Yes I’m aware that there are many, many variables. It would just be nice to see how the projector handles certain situations. It won’t give me a complete answer, but it might be enough.


----------



## momofx

*Samsung 3D Glasses?*

Is anyone using the SSG-3100GB 3D Glasses? I like that they cover the sides pretty well and go good over prescription glasses and was wondering if they would work well with the 5050UB.


What other glasses are you guys using otherwise?


----------



## Biggydeen

MJ DOOM said:


> Me and another poster already mentioned putting your PC in 1080p, with 4k enhancement turn off. Have you tried it yet?





biglen said:


> How much lens shift are you using? It does have a point where if you use too much, the picture will suffer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


A decent amount. But I already tested without lens shift, still the same problem.



MJ DOOM said:


> Me and another poster already mentioned putting your PC in 1080p, with 4k enhancement turn off. Have you tried it yet?


Yea I did, does not make any difference. But it has nothing to do with the source because I have the same problem when no source is attached.

It really becomes clear when using the panel alignment option. There are basically 3 colored lines that need to be aligned. Red, Blue and Green.

But it's impossible to even get 2 colors aligned. When I pull the blue color for example out of alignment it's a clear blue pixelated line without any blur. But when I try to align the blue line with the green line it just becomes blurry. And with blurry I mean there is an haze coming from the bottom and top of the aligned lines. So it's never straight yellow line. But a blurred one.

You can't see it from far away but it just looks unclear/not sharp. Content on my pc running 1440p looks way sharper then 4k on the 6050UB.

Now I'm not sure if the problem is the alignment or the focus. But adjusting the focus just pulls the colors out of alignment. I can clearly see that happening up close.

As mentioned I had the exact same problem with my first unit. And it's not just me. My girlfriend also see's that the picture is a bit blurry.

Will try using a piece of paper to rule out the screen. But I remember doing the same thing with my first unit. Still the same problem.

Will contact Epson about this (again)...

In the end when watching a movie it is not really noticeable. But you can clearly see that the subtitles are not sharp. So it basically it means the picture could be even better when it's 100% focused.


----------



## Viche

skylarlove1999 said:


> Unfortunately yes . Greedo still shoots first.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 @jeahrens 

Unfortunately it's even worse than that: 
https://www.forbes.com/sites/paulta...an-shot-first-edit-from-george-lucas-himself/


----------



## noob00224

ALRLIFE said:


> How do you access the panel alignment setting for this projector?


Page 88/89:
https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56386.pdf


----------



## Viche

--Sclaws said:


> True enough, but my projector is my "TV", not just for movies. Took me a year before I decided to try this thing. The setup will remain in my living room until my eyes turn to dirt, so I figured I'd just do it right now and not be mildly annoyed forever


 were you actually able to see vibrations from bass or kids playing before you had that?


----------



## WynsWrld98

amairphoto said:


> Ah, where is that , in the Epson settings? my installer threw away my manual. I know its online but it is always way easier holding the manual and glancing through than switching from a computer etc.
> 
> I just realized what the HDR slider did today thanks to this thread. I am wondering if there are any other settings that should be set with the 5050 that I am unaware of.


I have a 5040 with a HTPC connected to it 3840x2160 the Epson set to Preset 3 text on Windows desktop is razor sharp on a DIY painted wall.


----------



## skylarlove1999

IslaTurbine said:


> Yes I’m aware that there are many, many variables. It would just be nice to see how the projector handles certain situations. It won’t give me a complete answer, but it might be enough.


This is with six potlights on in the back of my room. Full brightness for the potlights. Lamp on eco. Picture mode Natural. 4K football game through my Roku Ultra using Fox Sports app. Last two are with lights off. My room is black velvet for ceiling and side walls 12 ft back to first row of seats.
..









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## IslaTurbine

Excellent. I very much appreciate you taking the time to do that.


----------



## skylarlove1999

IslaTurbine said:


> Excellent. I very much appreciate you taking the time to do that.


I am not so great at taking pictures and I can't pause 4K football on the Fox Sports app. This pic is from 12 ft away from screen with lights back on. Images are much better in person.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

IslaTurbine said:


> Excellent. I very much appreciate you taking the time to do that.


One last shot from 12ft away with lights on









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## IslaTurbine

What's also helpful to see in your shots is that you still have white baseboard. In light of my recent research here on AVS, we are now planning on painting the area walls a dark navy color and the ceiling a grey that compliments that. But I was becoming concerned about the impact that white baseboard trim might have on the area.


----------



## skylarlove1999

IslaTurbine said:


> Excellent. I very much appreciate you taking the time to do that.


Lights on. Lights off. Vudu through my Nvidia shield. I have a soffits over my first row so the light doesn't reach the top 1/3 of my screen. In person I can actually see the line where the colors onscreen change due to the ambient light. Not noticeable as much during sports viewing but noticeable during movies. You can see with the lights off my camera phone has some trouble with HDR specular highlights. Looks better in person obviously. You can see the black bars/gray bars are much more pronounced with lights on. I do have manual masking for scope movies. Not in place right now due to trying to show the differences with lights on versus lights off. I have a Seymour Glacier white 1.3 but actually measured 1.1 gain screen. 120 inches 16×9 about 3 inches from my black velvet covered ceiling.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

IslaTurbine said:


> What's also helpful to see in your shots is that you still have white baseboard. In light of my recent research here on AVS, we are now planning on painting the area walls a dark navy color and the ceiling a grey that compliments that. But I was becoming concerned about the impact that white baseboard trim might have on the area.


I didn't treat my front wall with anything as you can see. With no lights on you cannot see anything other than the image onscreen. That is due to treating the ceiling and side walls with triple black velvet. Left side wall is actually 2 ft from the screen. I didn't feel I would get much benefit by treating the front wall. I did paint the front wall with matte paint in a dark navy color.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

IslaTurbine said:


> What's also helpful to see in your shots is that you still have white baseboard. In light of my recent research here on AVS, we are now planning on painting the area walls a dark navy color and the ceiling a grey that compliments that. But I was becoming concerned about the impact that white baseboard trim might have on the area.


You might try this paint. It is a nice color and really absorbs light reflections. Matte finish would be ideal.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/HGTV-HOME-...yEhoG0G4kJWRbpspgwwaAgbdEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

IslaTurbine said:


> Yes I’m aware that there are many, many variables. It would just be nice to see how the projector handles certain situations. It won’t give me a complete answer, but it might be enough.


6050ub with rear lights on 50%, room is 13' x 22' and this is taken at rear of room just behind two Philips Hue can lights. Picture doesn't show much difference although there is a slight difference in person. You can see in first picture that you can't really see the light on the two large sacs we have, in the second you can. 

I am using Cinema mode in ECO with a Carl White 1.0 gain screen 175"









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

I wanted to share pics from my 5030ub and 6050ub for others if interested. 

After getting some time on the 6050ub, the contrast is the biggest improvement in my opinion, followed by the brightness and lastly the clarity. Having support for HDR is nice vs SDR only before. 

Hopefully this helps others decide when upgrading a similar situation. I will preface that I was using a gofanco 4K to 1080p scaler which made a noticeable improvement in picture quality for the 5030ub. I could have been content staying on the old setup, but now with the new setup and having seen the improvements I would definitely recommend it if you are on the fence.

Also posting some pics for side by side since I couldn't find them when I was researching.

Any questions, happy to answer. 

I also did some decibal readings from my phone at the front left of my projector in different modes, ECO, medium and high since people often ask how loud it is.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## prophcy0

I am close to pulling the trigger on a 5050UB since it's discounted for black friday. I've had a Sony HW40ES since early 2016. I love the Sony but I want a projector that can do 4k HDR content, and the price is right on the Epson. My only concern is that the 5050 is white. My theater room ceiling is matte black and my Sony projector blends in w/ the ceiling almost completely. I can't justify spending an extra $1400 to get the 6050 just to have a black enclosure. 

Anyone in here w/ a 5050 mounted to a black ceiling? How distracting is it? I am considering building some kind of enclosure for it but I don't want to cause any heat issues.


----------



## HTX^2steve

prophcy0 said:


> I am close to pulling the trigger on a 5050UB since it's discounted for black friday. I've had a Sony HW40ES since early 2016. I love the Sony but I want a projector that can do 4k HDR content, and the price is right on the Epson. My only concern is that the 5050 is white. My theater room ceiling is matte black and my Sony projector blends in w/ the ceiling almost completely. I can't justify spending an extra $1400 to get the 6050 just to have a black enclosure.
> 
> Anyone in here w/ a 5050 mounted to a black ceiling? How distracting is it? I am considering building some kind of enclosure for it but I don't want to cause any heat issues.


I have raised that same question and it is what it is. I think it is also a stupid move by Epson to have a white case. Most who buy these higher end projectors are those with dedicated theater rooms that are dark. 

I suggested to spray paint the case but that would void the warranty so I was thinking just putting a wide sheet of black removable vinyl over the body and side just to cut down on how distracting having a small white refrigerator attached to your ceiling!


----------



## plain fan

Question for those of you that have a white projector mounted on a dark ceiling, do you really notice it? I would think that you would only notice it if you were behind the projector looking at the screen or specifically looking at the projector.


----------



## gene4ht

plain fan said:


> Question for *those of you that have a white projector mounted on a dark ceiling, do you really notice it?* I would think that you would only notice it if you were behind the projector looking at the screen or specifically looking at the projector.


No...unless one is completely OCD, once immersed in a movie, the color and position of the projector is irrelevant and disappears.


----------



## plain fan

Ok, thanks, that was my thought process as well. No one has ever mentioned my projector, granted it's black, once the screen lights up and sound kicks in as all the attention is on what is taking place right in front of them.


----------



## momofx

plain fan said:


> Question for those of you that have a white projector mounted on a dark ceiling, do you really notice it? I would think that you would only notice it if you were behind the projector looking at the screen or specifically looking at the projector.



From past experience, you *will* notice it at first but then you get used to it and you automatically take no notice of it, kinda like a crabby mother-in-law lol.



I honestly wish my Epson was black like the 6050 or they made them in two colors. I tried to theme my movie room with black furniture and then I have this huge white projector lol. Oh well the wonderful picture will make up for its "shortcoming"


----------



## skylarlove1999

plain fan said:


> Question for those of you that have a white projector mounted on a dark ceiling, do you really notice it? I would think that you would only notice it if you were behind the projector looking at the screen or specifically looking at the projector.


You only notice it when the lights are on. Once the lights are off it is black LOL. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## noob00224

prophcy0 said:


> I am close to pulling the trigger on a 5050UB since it's discounted for black friday. I've had a Sony HW40ES since early 2016. I love the Sony but I want a projector that can do 4k HDR content, and the price is right on the Epson. My only concern is that the 5050 is white. My theater room ceiling is matte black and my Sony projector blends in w/ the ceiling almost completely. I can't justify spending an extra $1400 to get the 6050 just to have a black enclosure.
> 
> Anyone in here w/ a 5050 mounted to a black ceiling? How distracting is it? I am considering building some kind of enclosure for it but I don't want to cause any heat issues.


Not sure why Epson has these price points, in the EU the TW9400(6050UB) is cheaper (2300$) than the 5050UB and is black. The white wireless version is 300$ more.
Not everyone wants the lamp and mount that the 6050UB comes with.


----------



## DavidinGA

plain fan said:


> Question for those of you that have a white projector mounted on a dark ceiling, do you really notice it? I would think that you would only notice it if you were behind the projector looking at the screen or specifically looking at the projector.


Just make sure the pj is mounted behind you and then it's a mute point during use. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

noob00224 said:


> Not sure why Epson has these price points, in the EU the TW9400(6050UB) is cheaper (2300$) than the 5050UB and is black. The white wireless version is 300$ more.
> Not everyone wants the lamp and mount that the 6050UB comes with.


I know Epson USA will probably say different but I can’t believe our TW9400 is anything other than a 6050UB, same spec so I can’t understand why they are asking so much across the pond.


----------



## ShadowBoy

DavidinGA said:


> Just make sure the pj is mounted behind you and then it's a mute point during use.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I think you mean moot point, although if the projector is behind you you will hear it less so I suppose it is a mute point.


----------



## DavidinGA

ShadowBoy said:


> I think you mean moot point, although if the projector is behind you you will hear it less so I suppose it is a mute point.


See, I knew you'd understand  

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Luminated67 said:


> I know Epson USA will probably say different but I can’t believe our TW9400 is anything other than a 6050UB, same spec so I can’t understand why they are asking so much across the pond.


_The Epson Pro Cinema 6050UB, priced at $3,999, is a slightly modified version of the Epson Home Cinema 5050UB that is available in a black cabinet through AV integrators/installers. It offers the same 2,600 lumens of brightness, but a modest claimed boost in rated contrast ratio to 1,200,000:1 thanks to Epson identifying champion projector samples during 5050 production and designating those units for the commercial channel. Additionally, it adds lockable ISF Day and Night modes for use in professional calibration, and an extra aspect ratio setting for use with a standalone anamorphic lens. The 6050UB also ships with a ceiling mount, an extra lamp for future replacement, and a cable cover that snaps over the rear connection cavity. _

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro-Cinema-6050UB-Review.htm


----------



## Luminated67

noob00224 said:


> _The Epson Pro Cinema 6050UB, priced at $3,999, is a slightly modified version of the Epson Home Cinema 5050UB that is available in a black cabinet through AV integrators/installers. It offers the same 2,600 lumens of brightness, but a modest claimed boost in rated contrast ratio to 1,200,000:1 thanks to Epson identifying champion projector samples during 5050 production and designating those units for the commercial channel. Additionally, it adds lockable ISF Day and Night modes for use in professional calibration, and an extra aspect ratio setting for use with a standalone anamorphic lens. The 6050UB also ships with a ceiling mount, an extra lamp for future replacement, and a cable cover that snaps over the rear connection cavity. _
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro-Cinema-6050UB-Review.htm


Apart from the ISF Day and Night modes which I haven’t a clue about though might have I believe the rest of the spec is the same.


----------



## noob00224

Luminated67 said:


> Apart from the ISF Day and Night modes which I haven’t a club about I believe the rest of the spec is the same.


Yes, and a 300$ ceiling mount plus an extra lamp. And a cable.
Must be one amazing cable.


----------



## HTX^2steve

For $15 bucks...I'll try it. My theater room is also all black and having this white dorm room sized foreman grill hanging from my ceiling will be an eyesore. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MYNK1...colid=ZEH18IY7GM3Y&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

The bulk of this projector looks like a smooth arch over the body and then a couple strips front and back. Probably will remind of of prototype cars that are photographed.


----------



## prophcy0

Thanks for the input everyone. Clearly I will never see the projector while I am actively using the theater room. The problem is, my home theater is part of a general purpose mancave/home office. I work from home and from my computer desk I can see straight into the theater room (see attached pic). I am afraid the big white projector is going to be something I can't help but notice.


----------



## rekbones

prophcy0 said:


> Thanks for the input everyone. Clearly I will never see the projector while I am actively using the theater room. The problem is, my home theater is part of a general purpose mancave/home office. I work from home and from my computer desk I can see straight into the theater room (see attached pic). I am afraid the big white projector is going to be something I can't help but notice.


If it's that important to you then spring for the 6050. That's the whole reason Epson does this is to get as much money out of us enthusiast as possible.


----------



## amdar

When i play 4K or Blu-Ray disks the MPAA ratings is displaying in pink/violet color not the deep blue in my EPSON 5050UB.
Any settings or display settings issues?


----------



## jaredmwright

prophcy0 said:


> Thanks for the input everyone. Clearly I will never see the projector while I am actively using the theater room. The problem is, my home theater is part of a general purpose mancave/home office. I work from home and from my computer desk I can see straight into the theater room (see attached pic). I am afraid the big white projector is going to be something I can't help but notice.


An option you could do is build a frame around the projector and cover with black speaker fabric material, would be cheap and easy and might even look cleaner than a projector and leave the lens side open. Should get good ventilation and solve your concern. Or as was mentioned above and what I did, buy the 6050ub.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## prophcy0

jaredmwright said:


> *An option you could do is build a frame around the projector and cover with black speaker fabric material, would be cheap and easy and might even look cleaner than a projector and leave the lens side open. * Should get good ventilation and solve your concern. Or as was mentioned above and what I did, buy the 6050ub.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That is a fantastic suggestion. I may even have some speaker cloth left over from my HT build a few years ago.


----------



## ckronengold

*5050 with Logitech Harmony*

Heyhowahya! 

Anyone using a Logitech Harmony hub based remote with their 5050? I'm having a hard time getting it to power down using an "activity" and wondering if anyone had any pro tips. 

When I use "All Off" the projector powers down with the rest of the system. And I have no problem turning the projector on during the "Turn On Theater" activity. 

I suspect it has something to do with needing to confirm the shut down. Since Harmony has the 5050 in its library of devices, I assumed the power down would work. 

The oddity is that when I just it "power off" using the Harmony, it will turn off. But my "Turn off Theater" activity -- turn off Shield, turn off remote, turn off Projector" doesn't turn the projector off. 

I manually added an "Off" code and created the activity using "off" - delay - "off" - then the rest, and got it to work. But it seems like it should have been working the other way. 

Anyone have the same experience? Or a different / better solution?


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Heyhowahya!
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone using a Logitech Harmony hub based remote with their 5050? I'm having a hard time getting it to power down using an "activity" and wondering if anyone had any pro tips.
> 
> 
> 
> When I use "All Off" the projector powers down with the rest of the system. And I have no problem turning the projector on during the "Turn On Theater" activity.
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect it has something to do with needing to confirm the shut down. Since Harmony has the 5050 in its library of devices, I assumed the power down would work.
> 
> 
> 
> The oddity is that when I just it "power off" using the Harmony, it will turn off. But my "Turn off Theater" activity -- turn off Shield, turn off remote, turn off Projector" doesn't turn the projector off.
> 
> 
> 
> I manually added an "Off" code and created the activity using "off" - delay - "off" - then the rest, and got it to work. But it seems like it should have been working the other way.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have the same experience? Or a different / better solution?


I find it it is the Shield causing the issue since powering down works fine when using my Hub for my other activities like Watch Movie and Watch Roku. I wonder if it has something to do with the Shield being controlled by Bluetooth and the power off signal is somehow being interrupted by the Shield maybe being delayed by shutting down because of the Bluetooth. It is annoying. I am going to try adding a delay in shutting off the projector and see if that helps.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MMoser

ckronengold said:


> Heyhowahya!
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone using a Logitech Harmony hub based remote with their 5050? I'm having a hard time getting it to power down using an "activity" and wondering if anyone had any pro tips.
> 
> 
> 
> When I use "All Off" the projector powers down with the rest of the system. And I have no problem turning the projector on during the "Turn On Theater" activity.
> 
> 
> 
> I suspect it has something to do with needing to confirm the shut down. Since Harmony has the 5050 in its library of devices, I assumed the power down would work.
> 
> 
> 
> The oddity is that when I just it "power off" using the Harmony, it will turn off. But my "Turn off Theater" activity -- turn off Shield, turn off remote, turn off Projector" doesn't turn the projector off.
> 
> 
> 
> I manually added an "Off" code and created the activity using "off" - delay - "off" - then the rest, and got it to work. But it seems like it should have been working the other way.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have the same experience? Or a different / better solution?


I had to turn off CEC controls in the Shield, and did the Epson off, 1sec delay, Epson off... in the activity settings on the Elite. Works every time now. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

MMoser said:


> I had to turn off CEC controls in the Shield, and did the Epson off, 1sec delay, Epson off... in the activity settings on the Elite. Works every time now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I thought I had all the CEC turned off, but I did just get my receiver back from repair and it was factory reset. Not sure why thought would matter, but CEC is a fickle beast. I'll have to triple check. 

I didn't recall seeing an "off" command as part of the standard signals. Did you add your own "off" signal to use? Just curious if this is just the way it works. 

THanks for the input @MMoser.


----------



## MMoser

ckronengold said:


> I thought I had all the CEC turned off, but I did just get my receiver back from repair and it was factory reset. Not sure why thought would matter, but CEC is a fickle beast. I'll have to triple check.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't recall seeing an "off" command as part of the standard signals. Did you add your own "off" signal to use? Just curious if this is just the way it works.
> 
> 
> 
> THanks for the input @MMoser.


I'm not in my theater atm so I can't pull up the exact verbiage, but the Epson command was the power off in Harmony. It took me awhile to discover the cec config was triggering and supossedly holding signals, so I disabled all cec on the Shield. Then added the delay & and extra power off to the Epson and now the 6050 shuts down when I hit the "off" button on the remote.

I also had to adjust cec on my Marantz avr and pj, so when the avr gets the off command it also sends it to the pj. I think in the Epson cec menu it looks like "source - > pj". 

Hope that helps! 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## eta1345

Finally got the screen up and moved everything around. Need to redo my panels and patch up some holes in the wall but everything is working great.


----------



## skylarlove1999

eta1345 said:


> Finally got the screen up and moved everything around. Need to redo my panels and patch up some holes in the wall but everything is working great.


Looking good. You did a nice job arranging a room to fit your equipment.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

eta1345 said:


> Finally got the screen up and moved everything around. Need to redo my panels and patch up some holes in the wall but everything is working great.


Gettin it done! BTW...has anyone yet walked through your screen?


----------



## noob00224

eta1345 said:


> Finally got the screen up and moved everything around. Need to redo my panels and patch up some holes in the wall but everything is working great.


Is the screen an ALR Slate 1.2?
What is the distance from lens to screen?
Is there any hotspot on bright images?


----------



## dloiphone

For those of you using a 6050ub with a Xbox one X? How many check marks you getting under 4K tv settings?

Currently have it like this Xbox one x > onkyo tx-nr656>650ub


----------



## Svttom01

I would just buy a can of black matte PlastiDip and mask off the areas you don't want covered and paint it. You can always peel it off if you ever need to send it in for warranty repair.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Svttom01 said:


> I would just buy a can of black matte PlastiDip and mask off the areas you don't want covered and paint it. You can always peel it off if you ever need to send it in for warranty repair.


Not a good idea regardless of warranty. PlastiDip gives off chemicals and you really don't want those circulating through your lens and internal components. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Svttom01

skylarlove1999 said:


> Svttom01 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would just buy a can of black matte PlastiDip and mask off the areas you don't want covered and paint it. You can always peel it off if you ever need to send it in for warranty repair.
> 
> 
> 
> Not a good idea regardless of warranty. PlastiDip gives off chemicals and you really don't want those circulating through your lens and internal components.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Makes sense. I didn't think about the potential issues it could cause. It would be nice if they made both white and black versions.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Svttom01 said:


> Makes sense. I didn't think about the potential issues it could cause. It would be nice if they made both white and black versions.


Agreed. But then they couldn't make you pay more for black if it was same exact model. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Cypres0099

*Optimal Settings for 5050 and Nvidia Shield TV Pro 2019*

Ok, so I've hooked up my Nvidia Shield TV Pro 2019 into the Yamaha V685 and then outputting to the 5050ub. Image processing is turned off on the receiver, so it should be passing through untouched.

I'm trying to figure out how to get the best source signal to the PJ before doing any calibrations or anything. 

There are a fair number of settings on the Nvidia Shield for resolution, bit depth, whatever 4.2.0 is, refresh rate...

What are the best settings for using the Shield with the 5050ub?

Right now I have it set to 3840 x 2160 with 59.93hz 12 bit depth 4:2:2 Color Format 2020 (HDR Ready).

Should I be setting this manually? 
Is there some auto feature that will change it based on the content being played?


----------



## momofx

skylarlove1999 said:


> Not a good idea regardless of warranty. PlastiDip gives off chemicals and you really don't want those circulating through your lens and internal components.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



If you have some auto customising shop nearby or someone trustworthy that does vehicle wrapping, you can have them wrap it for you professionally and I'm sure it would be alot cheaper especially for something small. Just a thought...


If doing it yourself, I recommend 3M Di-Noc brand vinyl wrap, its easy to work with, sticks very well and comes off easily too.


----------



## eta1345

noob00224 said:


> Is the screen an ALR Slate 1.2?
> What is the distance from lens to screen?
> Is there any hotspot on bright images?


Yes it is the slate 1.2. I just looked at the Screen Innovations website and I noticed they have taken down the Solo 1 and just have the Solo2 and Solo 2 Pro up. Not sure what the difference is. I have not noticed any hotspots. It looks amazing to me. I will try and take some pictures of it with some movies playing. Been watching a lot of older stuff that just hit bluray (The Blob, American Werewolf in London, The First Power to name a few) and I have not watched one 4k yet. 

As for distance it is about 16ft from the front of the lens to the screen. I actually telescoped my mount out to get it closer and not use all of the zoom on the projector. I am very happy with the projector and it does everything that I need. I only watch movies on it and have my other TV I had before up there to play games on. BTW anyone playing the new Star Wars game? I am mixed on it so far. Anyways I will try and post up some more pics later on today.


----------



## eta1345

HTX^2steve said:


> Gettin it done! BTW...has anyone yet walked through your screen?


Not yet. Hopefully never. I will say that I charged the screen and have rolled it up a couple of times and it works flawlessly. The only problem were some wrinkles in the bottom when I rolled it out the first time but I called Screen Innovations and they told me some tricks and they actually worked. No more wrinkles. It is a top notch product also. Weighs 15lbs and can be removed relatively easily. Even has soft touch closing. Very happy I did not skimp on the screen.


----------



## noob00224

eta1345 said:


> Yes it is the slate 1.2. I just looked at the Screen Innovations website and I noticed they have taken down the Solo 1 and just have the Solo2 and Solo 2 Pro up. Not sure what the difference is. I have not noticed any hotspots. It looks amazing to me. I will try and take some pictures of it with some movies playing. Been watching a lot of older stuff that just hit bluray (The Blob, American Werewolf in London, The First Power to name a few) and I have not watched one 4k yet.
> 
> As for distance it is about 16ft from the front of the lens to the screen. I actually telescoped my mount out to get it closer and not use all of the zoom on the projector. I am very happy with the projector and it does everything that I need. I only watch movies on it and have my other TV I had before up there to play games on. BTW anyone playing the new Star Wars game? I am mixed on it so far. Anyways I will try and post up some more pics later on today.


Thanks.
Hotspots are most visible with a white background. At a throw ratio of 2.44x it would be unlikely that it would show up.


----------



## sirius_basterd

*calibration?*

Is there some consensus on the best picture mode and calibration settings for most situations?


Basically there are four scenarios that I need:


- 4K gaming with PS4 Pro
- Watching SDR content like on HBO Now
- Watching HDR content on Netflix
- Daytime watching when brightness matters the most


----------



## HTX^2steve

eta1345 said:


> Not yet. Hopefully never. I will say that I charged the screen and have rolled it up a couple of times and it works flawlessly. The only problem were some wrinkles in the bottom when I rolled it out the first time but I called Screen Innovations and they told me some tricks and they actually worked. No more wrinkles. It is a top notch product also. Weighs 15lbs and can be removed relatively easily. Even has soft touch closing. Very happy I did not skimp on the screen.


Always can learn new tricks...what did they say to remove the wrinkles?


----------



## eta1345

HTX^2steve said:


> Always can learn new tricks...what did they say to remove the wrinkles?


First was to tap the bar from the bottom along its whole edge, end to end. Next I started in the middle and grabbed the screen, at the bottom were the black is, and then use the other hand to pull the screen fabric towards the edge. I did this from the middle first to the right and then the left. Worked like a charm. About 20 minutes after doing this the wrinkles were gone..


----------



## longhornsk57

I am considering testing out this projector, but I do have one question.


I have the Optoma BC300 emitter and ZF2300 glasses. Since the PJ is RF 3D capable, I was wondering if these would work with it, or if i have to buy Epson RF glasses. I have 9 pairs of ZF2300 so this may be a deal breaker for me if I can't use them.


----------



## Cypres0099

longhornsk57 said:


> I am considering testing out this projector, but I do have one question.
> 
> 
> I have the Optoma BC300 emitter and ZF2300 glasses. Since the PJ is RF 3D capable, I was wondering if these would work with it, or if i have to buy Epson RF glasses. I have 9 pairs of ZF2300 so this may be a deal breaker for me if I can't use them.


I too have been looking around for the best pair of 3D RF glasses compatible with the 5050ub. Ordered a pair of the epson version to try out.


----------



## eta1345

Here is a pic of the screen with the lights on bright and one where the lights are off. Not sure how some of yall get such good pics but it looks much better than the photo.


----------



## skylarlove1999

eta1345 said:


> Here is a pic of the screen with the lights on bright and one where the lights are off. Not sure how some of yall get such good pics but it looks much better than the photo.


Don't feel too bad I still take horrible pictures LOL

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## momofx

Cypres0099 said:


> longhornsk57 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am considering testing out this projector, but I do have one question.
> 
> 
> I have the Optoma BC300 emitter and ZF2300 glasses. Since the PJ is RF 3D capable, I was wondering if these would work with it, or if i have to buy Epson RF glasses. I have 9 pairs of ZF2300 so this may be a deal breaker for me if I can't use them.
> 
> 
> 
> I too have been looking around for the best pair of 3D RF glasses compatible with the 5050ub. Ordered a pair of the epson version to try out.
Click to expand...

I too have been looking for the holy grail of 3D glasses for my 5050 as well. It has come down to the Samsung or Epson. I just heard from a pro av store that Epson was discontinuing their 3D glasses and recommending Samsung glasses???! 

I got both some Samsung and Epson coming so I will keep you guys posted on how it works out.


----------



## dr bill

Cypres0099 said:


> Ok, so I've hooked up my Nvidia Shield TV Pro 2019 into the Yamaha V685 and then outputting to the 5050ub. Image processing is turned off on the receiver, so it should be passing through untouched.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out how to get the best source signal to the PJ before doing any calibrations or anything.
> 
> There are a fair number of settings on the Nvidia Shield for resolution, bit depth, whatever 4.2.0 is, refresh rate...
> 
> *What are the best settings for using the Shield with the 5050ub?*
> 
> Right now I have it set to 3840 x 2160 with 59.93hz 12 bit depth 4:2:2 Color Format 2020 (HDR Ready).
> 
> Should I be setting this manually?
> Is there some auto feature that will change it based on the content being played?



If you are getting 12 bit 4:2:2, that sounds good to me. My guess is you have set this manually, not automatically/Recommended. For whatever reason, if I leave everything on Recommended, I get 10 bit. But, I can manually ramp that up to 12 bit.

There has been fairly extensive discussion of this very issue earlier in the thread. Search for my posts and/or NVIDIA settings within this thread to read the exchange of info on this issue. Enjoy! :nerd:


----------



## Cypres0099

dr bill said:


> If you are getting 12 bit 4:2:2, that sounds good to me. My guess is you have set this manually, not automatically/Recommended. For whatever reason, if I leave everything on Recommended, I get 10 bit. But, I can manually ramp that up to 12 bit.
> 
> There has been fairly extensive discussion of this very issue earlier in the thread. Search for my posts and/or NVIDIA settings within this thread to read the exchange of info on this issue. Enjoy! :nerd:


Yeah, I did set it manually since I was getting washed out and blocky color with the auto setting. I also have the auto color switching enabled, so I'm not sure what happens when it switches me over to a 709 color space. 

Curious if you've done any experimentation with enabling refresh rate switching in Plex. When you enable it, the screen will go blank for a few seconds while it switches frame rates, but I'm not sure if this will give a better experience than just keeping it in 59.93hz (even when watching a 24 fps movie).


----------



## dr bill

*Curious if you've done any experimentation with enabling refresh rate switching in Plex.*

I haven't tried changing any Plex settings. I use Kodi to watch my movies on the 5050, Plex to watch movies remotely.


----------



## rekbones

longhornsk57 said:


> I am considering testing out this projector, but I do have one question.
> 
> 
> I have the Optoma BC300 emitter and ZF2300 glasses. Since the PJ is RF 3D capable, I was wondering if these would work with it, or if i have to buy Epson RF glasses. I have 9 pairs of ZF2300 so this may be a deal breaker for me if I can't use them.


No the Optoma glasses won't work as they are a proprietary RF and need a vesa port on the projector. You need Bluetooth glass so in theory any universal Bluetooth glasses should work. Those glasses should be easy to sell because they should work with JVC's that have a vesa port.


----------



## longhornsk57

rekbones said:


> No the Optoma glasses won't work as they are a proprietary RF and need a vesa port on the projector. You need Bluetooth glass so in theory any universal Bluetooth glasses should work. Those glasses should be easy to sell because they should work with JVC's that have a vesa port.


Ok thanks, this is what I was looking for


----------



## Magnus_CA

Anyone have any compatibility issues with a Shield Pro and this projector? I'm trying to decide between it and a Roku ultimate.


----------



## Magnus_CA

If I'm connecting all my source components through a pre-pro can I expect the 6050 to display resolution, frame rate, and hdr status on the screen? The pre-pro I'm looking at doesn't have an OSD and I'm trying to gauge how much I'll miss it.


----------



## aeneas01

not sure what i did, but my relatively brand new projector (6050ub, 40 hrs) is all of a sudden behaving oddly, it dims when a scene goes from very bright to dark, and then it gradually gets brighter when the dark scene changes back to bright.

for example, at the beginning of oblivion, when tom cruise walks out to the chopper pad and then the scene cuts away to the movie title "oblivion" against a black background - as soon as the scene cuts away the screen becomes overly dark and "oblivion" doesn't come close to popping against the back background as it did before, it's as if there's a very dark filter over the letters.... and then when title scene cuts back to the bright scene with tom cruise in the chopper, the scene very slowly becomes brighter, very gradually, until it finally reaches its peak brightness.

that said, i'm sure this has been caused by one or more of the projector settings i experimented with tonight (i finally had a chance to spend some time with the pj tonight and played around with a bunch of settings), but for the life of me i can't figure out which setting is causing it, and resetting all of the settings to default doesn't seem to help... any thoughts on what might be causing this?

thanks in advance!


----------



## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> not sure what i did, but my relatively brand new projector (6050ub, 40 hrs) is all of a sudden behaving oddly, it dims when a scene goes from very bright to dark, and then it gradually gets brighter when the dark scene changes back to bright.
> 
> for example, at the beginning of oblivion, when tom cruise walks out to the chopper pad and then the scene cuts away to the movie title "oblivion" against a black background - as soon as the scene cuts away the screen becomes overly dark and "oblivion" doesn't come close to popping against the back background as it did before, it's as if there's a very dark filter over the letters.... and then when title scene cuts back to the bright scene with tom cruise in the chopper, the scene very slowly becomes brighter, very gradually, until it finally reaches its peak brightness.
> 
> that said, i'm sure this has been caused by one or more of the projector settings i experimented with tonight (i finally had a chance to spend some time with the pj tonight and played around with a bunch of settings), but for the life of me i can't figure out which setting is causing it, and resetting all of the settings to default doesn't seem to help... any thoughts on what might be causing this?
> 
> thanks in advance!


Sounds like the Auto Iris setting is what you were noticing. It is called "pumping" and some people notice it more than others. If it going to be noticable it would be so during scenes that change from dark to light generally speaking. Auto iris enhances contrast and black levels. You can go into the menu and turn the Auto Iris off and rewatch those scenes to see how much of a difference having it off makes to your contrast and black levels. Then you can adjust from there to a level where maybe you don't notice the pumping. My guess is you had the lamp in high and the auto Iris in high which would really create the pumping you saw. Honestly if you like the image the rest of the time and only noticed it on the couple scenes you might decide to live with it. There isn't anything wrong with the projector. The Auto Iris sounds like it is working as intended. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## 3fingerbrown

Guys forgive me for not reading the over 4,000 posts in this thread, but do you think the 5050 is loud enough to want a hush box for it? I’m going to run it on a 160” screen so it might need to go into high power mode for a screen that size. The other benefit of the hush box is it covers up the awful white color and saves me from shelling out another $1,000.


----------



## skylarlove1999

3fingerbrown said:


> Guys forgive me for not reading the over 4,000 posts in this thread, but do you think the 5050 is loud enough to want a hush box for it? I’m going to run it on a 160” screen so it might need to go into high power mode for a screen that size. The other benefit of the hush box is it covers up the awful white color and saves me from shelling out another $1,000.


I would say hang it and test for yourself. Everybody's ears and level of annoyance is different. If you want to hide the white color anyway, it sounds like the hush box would accomplish both goals.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## 3fingerbrown

Yeah I should just bite the bullet and make one. 

I know that hush boxes are pretty generic, but does anyone have a link to a hush box for this specific projector? With both cooling fans in front of the unit, I’m wondering if I should do anything different.


----------



## aeneas01

very much appreciated, makes a lot of sense, will take a look at this tonight!





skylarlove1999 said:


> Sounds like the Auto Iris setting is what you were noticing. It is called "pumping" and some people notice it more than others. If it going to be noticable it would be so during scenes that change from dark to light generally speaking. Auto iris enhances contrast and black levels. You can go into the menu and turn the Auto Iris off and rewatch those scenes to see how much of a difference having it off makes to your contrast and black levels. Then you can adjust from there to a level where maybe you don't notice the pumping. My guess is you had the lamp in high and the auto Iris in high which would really create the pumping you saw. Honestly if you like the image the rest of the time and only noticed it on the couple scenes you might decide to live with it. There isn't anything wrong with the projector. The Auto Iris sounds like it is working as intended.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Cypres0099

Magnus_CA said:


> Anyone have any compatibility issues with a Shield Pro and this projector? I'm trying to decide between it and a Roku ultimate.


Took a little tweaking of the settings, but my Shield TV Pro (2019) is working quite nicely now. Not 100% sure I have optimal settings yet, but it's doing the job. The remote can even power off the projector and av receiver through CEC. Haven't figured out how to get it to power on the projector yet though.


----------



## rustolemite

Okay having an odd problem with the 5050, this only happens once maybe every other week.
I will be watching the projector and it will auto shut off with the Blue Light blinking rapidly and the fan running a high speed. It does this for a minute or so then completely shuts down.
If I turn it back on it goes right back to the Blue Light and high fan and shuts off again. If I UNPLUG the projector that seems to fix everything. 

And I know most would think its heat related but last night it did it only after being on for about 3 hours, I have had it on for a continuous 13 hours without this happening.
Just curious if anybody else has had anything like this happen.

Thanks


----------



## anilrao

I have a particular issue that you guys might be able to address.
I need to concatenate two 25ft active high-speed HDMI cables. The first carries the output from an AppleTV to an HDMI audio extractor box. The video out from this passes into the second active HDMI cable, then on to the projector.
Will this setup cause issues with the signal to the projector? 
Thanks for the help.


----------



## sirius_basterd

rustolemite said:


> Okay having an odd problem with the 5050, this only happens once maybe every other week.
> I will be watching the projector and it will auto shut off with the Blue Light blinking rapidly and the fan running a high speed. It does this for a minute or so then completely shuts down.
> If I turn it back on it goes right back to the Blue Light and high fan and shuts off again. If I UNPLUG the projector that seems to fix everything.
> 
> And I know most would think its heat related but last night it did it only after being on for about 3 hours, I have had it on for a continuous 13 hours without this happening.
> Just curious if anybody else has had anything like this happen.
> 
> Thanks



This just happened to me for the first time! And I just got it a few days ago. Shut off randomly. I didn't have to unplug it though, it stayed on when I pressed the power button. I was running it on medium power but maybe it got too hot?


EDIT: Mine is set up so the rear of the unit is close to the wall - I thought that was fine because the vents are in the front but it looks like the manual says it has to be at least 7.9" from any walls.


----------



## rustolemite

sirius_basterd said:


> This just happened to me for the first time! And I just got it a few days ago. Shut off randomly. I didn't have to unplug it though, it stayed on when I pressed the power button. I was running it on medium power but maybe it got too hot?
> 
> 
> EDIT: Mine is set up so the rear of the unit is close to the wall - I thought that was fine because the vents are in the front but it looks like the manual says it has to be at least 7.9" from any walls.


I have run mine for over 12 hours straight and never had the problem.. Still not sure what the problem can be...


----------



## momofx

Maybe talk to Epson about this problem. These are the only 2 instances I have read, after some extensive research on the 5050 before buying one...



sirius_basterd said:


> rustolemite said:
> 
> 
> 
> Okay having an odd problem with the 5050, this only happens once maybe every other week.
> I will be watching the projector and it will auto shut off with the Blue Light blinking rapidly and the fan running a high speed. It does this for a minute or so then completely shuts down.
> If I turn it back on it goes right back to the Blue Light and high fan and shuts off again. If I UNPLUG the projector that seems to fix everything.
> 
> And I know most would think its heat related but last night it did it only after being on for about 3 hours, I have had it on for a continuous 13 hours without this happening.
> Just curious if anybody else has had anything like this happen.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This just happened to me for the first time! And I just got it a few days ago. Shut off randomly. I didn't have to unplug it though, it stayed on when I pressed the power button. I was running it on medium power but maybe it got too hot?
> 
> 
> EDIT: Mine is set up so the rear of the unit is close to the wall - I thought that was fine because the vents are in the front but it looks like the manual says it has to be at least 7.9" from any walls.
Click to expand...


----------



## momofx

Has anyone used the settings from below? 





MJ DOOM said:


> https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...me-cinema-5050ub-4k-pro-uhd-projector-review/
> 
> Recommended Settings For SDR & HDR
> 
> SDR
> 
> Mode Natural
> Brightness 50
> Contrast 50
> Color Sat 50
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 5, 5, 5
> Color Temp Custom
> Offset R 50
> Offset G 48
> Offset B 52
> Gain R 50
> Gain G 51
> Gain B 50
> Gamma -2
> Set the bulb and manual iris to taste
> Auto-iris high speed delivers the best possible contrast
> 
> HDR
> 
> Mode Digital Cinema
> Brightness 50
> Contrast 50
> Color Sat 50
> Tint 50
> Sharpness 5, 5, 5
> Color Temp 8
> Skin Tone 3
> Custom
> Offsets unchanged
> Gain R 60
> Gain G 58
> Gain B 40
> HDR4 worked for me but your mileage may vary
> 
> Also from Sound & Vision.
> 
> "Before calibration, the Epson's default 6500K color temperature preset in Natural color mode displayed very good grayscale tracking, with the Delta E averaging out to 2.6. After calibration, that number improved to 1.4, with a high of 2.7 at 90 percent brightness. (Delta E is a figure of merit indicating how close the color comes to the standards, either D65 for the white point or the color coordinates for each of the primary and secondary colors that define the color gamut under test. *Values below 3 are considered to be unnoticeable.*)
> 
> With the default settings active in Natural color mode, the Delta E of the 5050UB's measured color points averaged out to 1.0. While the projector provides color management system controls, *I didn't feel the need to access them given the Epson's faithful out-of- box Rec. 709 color reproduction.* Coverage of the P3 color gamut was an impressive 97 percent. Gamma closely tracked a 2.2 target for most of the range when the -1 Gamma preset was selected, with a high of 2.3 at 90 IRE."
> 
> These projectors perform great out of the box. Its already 95% there. Don't get caught up in forum hype and spend unnecessary money.


----------



## biglen

momofx said:


> Has anyone used the settings from below?


Yes, and when I had a professional calibrator come over, he asked me where I got the settings, because they were WAY off. I'm not saying they won't be good for you, but every projector and setup is different, so the odds of those settings being right for you, are slim. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

jch2 said:


> If you are in the market for an Epson 5050UB, I have one that is known working great that I just purchased earlier this month from an authorized dealer. I want to upgrade to a 6050UB and don't want to pay the dealer's restocking fee. You will get the full warranty, and if you in the Minneapolis area you can demo it first. Here's my for sale post with the details:
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/#/topics/3103694
> 
> Thanks for reading!
> 
> -J.C.


Your link just goes to the main page, not specifically to your listing. Just FYI.


----------



## Luminated67

I didn't these short videos on another forum where the debate was both ScreenDoor and one's ability to see the pixels on an Epson 5050/6050/TW9400.

Here’s the two videos, the first is with 4K enhancement ON... the video starts from a distance of 3ft from the screen and I then steadily move in, finishing off just 2-3” from the screen.






The next video is from the same distances but with 4K enhancement OFF.






Even from 3 foot from the screen the image is crystal clear and without any pixel structure.


----------



## dr bill

jch2 said:


> I've had problems with getting direct links to work. I updated the link in the original post. Try this one. Can you let me know if it works for you? Thank you for letting me know!
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/252-front-projector/3103694-epson-5050ub-4k-hdr-projector.html?amp=1


That one works!


----------



## HTX^2steve

Santa in the form of a brown suit will be arriving early before all the crazy holiday sales with my new 5050ub! Now is the time for myself to do the upgrade where I have waited long enough. I have had my unbelievable Panasonic AE900U run from 2005 without ANY problems and still on the original lamp! 

Upgraded practically everything for 4k/atmos in my theater and the pj is the only thing left.

I know what will happen...next years model will be a black case and native 4k but I hope this modern day projector brings good luck as my panny did for the next X years! 

May my EPSON future begin! (that is the s/n checks out with Epson)


----------



## Cypres0099

*3D Playback in Plex Not Working*

I just got my pair of Epson 3d glasses for my 5050ub. I got the glasses to pair no problem. No I'm trying to play a 3D movie file on Plex. It keeps playing Side By Side video and the 3d format button and menu options are disabled. I tried adding SBS, H-SBS, HSBS, Half-SBS to the file name with no luck.

Any ideas?


----------



## biglen

Cypres0099 said:


> I just got my pair of Epson 3d glasses for my 5050ub. I got the glasses to pair no problem. No I'm trying to play a 3D movie file on Plex. It keeps playing Side By Side video and the 3d format button and menu options are disabled. I tried adding SBS, H-SBS, HSBS, Half-SBS to the file name with no luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas?


Make sure you have Plex set to 1080p. The 3D won't work if it's 4k. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## momofx

*Wow*

Well I received my 5050UB today and decided to set up on a shelf I made up for it (back wall near the ceiling) and test it out on my (sort of) dark green wall. Wow, even with the green wall the picture was still very bright and amazing lol. The lense shift and zoom makes it soooooo easy to just set it up and use those functions instead of moving the projector or the shelf like it use to be in the past. Oh and even after looking at the specs online, this thing is a MONSTER when you actually have it in front of you 


Due to my limitations and idea of also using a regular flat panel on the wall for general tv watching, I decided to go with a 125" Akia (Elite - Cinewhite) Motorized for now. The one thing I was glad I did not see anymore was that darn rainbow effect I see on DLPs.


Sorry for rambling on - I'm still astounded how amazing it looked, stock settings on a green wall LOL!


----------



## Pretorian

I just got my new 6050 projector but I have trouble getting an image out of it.

Dune HD and a BD-player is connected with HDMI (2m long) to an older Denon AVR 2300 receiver.
The receiver sends out the image with "no name" HDMI (10m long) to the Epson 6050 (or 9400 in Europe).
It says No signal.
I got the BD-players menu to show but when I put in a movie I only got the sound.

So I tried hooking upp the BD-player directly to the Epson WITH the same 10m cable and got it to work!

Is there a problem with my Denon or is it the HDMI cable that only works when connected directly?

I am looking at getting a good HDMI active optical cable but I am afraid that it wont solve my problem.

Can I change anything in the Denon or the BD-player (or Epson)?


----------



## Pretorian

*No image when connecting through receiver*

I just got my new 6050 projector but I have trouble getting an image out of it.

Dune HD and a BD-player is connected with HDMI (2m long) to an older Denon AVR 2300 receiver.
The receiver sends out the image with "no name" HDMI (10m long) to the Epson 6050 (or 9400 in Europe).
It says No signal.
I got the BD-players menu to show but when I put in a movie I only got the sound.

So I tried hooking upp the BD-player directly to the Epson WITH the same 10m cable and got it to work!

Is there a problem with my Denon or is it the HDMI cable that only works when connected directly?

I am looking at getting a good HDMI active optical cable but I am afraid that it wont solve my problem.

Can I change anything in the Denon or the BD-player (or Epson)?


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> I just got my new 6050 projector but I have trouble getting an image out of it.
> 
> Dune HD and a BD-player is connected with HDMI (2m long) to an older Denon AVR 2300 receiver.
> The receiver sends out the image with "no name" HDMI (10m long) to the Epson 6050 (or 9400 in Europe).
> It says No signal.
> I got the BD-players menu to show but when I put in a movie I only got the sound.
> 
> So I tried hooking upp the BD-player directly to the Epson WITH the same 10m cable and got it to work!
> 
> Is there a problem with my Denon or is it the HDMI cable that only works when connected directly?
> 
> I am looking at getting a good HDMI active optical cable but I am afraid that it wont solve my problem.
> 
> Can I change anything in the Denon or the BD-player (or Epson)?


If your 10M HDMI cable isn't an Optical version then this is most likely your problem. Make sure your upscaling is both turned off on your Bluray player and your Denon AVR, if you put a standard 1080P bluray in and you now get a picture then this is indeed your problem.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Pretorian said:


> I just got my new 6050 projector but I have trouble getting an image out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> Dune HD and a BD-player is connected with HDMI (2m long) to an older Denon AVR 2300 receiver.
> 
> The receiver sends out the image with "no name" HDMI (10m long) to the Epson 6050 (or 9400 in Europe).
> 
> It says No signal.
> 
> I got the BD-players menu to show but when I put in a movie I only got the sound.
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried hooking upp the BD-player directly to the Epson WITH the same 10m cable and got it to work!
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a problem with my Denon or is it the HDMI cable that only works when connected directly?
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking at getting a good HDMI active optical cable but I am afraid that it wont solve my problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Can I change anything in the Denon or the BD-player (or Epson)?


How long is your HDMI cable from your receiver to your projector. I am wondering if there is are there a setting in your receiver that is not set correctly or more than likely your run from your receiver to your projector is so long that the video signal is just dropping. If you were run from your receiver to your projector is more than 25 ft long I would say that an HDMI active fiber optic cable should resolve your issue.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## olegg

momofx said:


> Well I received my 5050UB today and decided to set up on a shelf I made up for it (back wall near the ceiling) and test it out on my (sort of) dark green wall. Wow, even with the green wall the picture was still very bright and amazing lol. The lense shift and zoom makes it soooooo easy to just set it up and use those functions instead of moving the projector or the shelf like it use to be in the past. Oh and even after looking at the specs online, this thing is a MONSTER when you actually have it in front of you
> 
> 
> Due to my limitations and idea of also using a regular flat panel on the wall for general tv watching, I decided to go with a 125" Akia (Elite - Cinewhite) Motorized for now. The one thing I was glad I did not see anymore was that darn rainbow effect I see on DLPs.
> 
> 
> Sorry for rambling on - I'm still astounded how amazing it looked, stock settings on a green wall LOL!


What is your expectation of noise & heat on your new projector? Do you like the way it function? Were you considering refurbished 5040UB before you buy it? Do you use shield or Apple TV 4K with it? Thanks for sharing your experience.


----------



## Pretorian

skylarlove1999 said:


> Pretorian said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just got my new 6050 projector but I have trouble getting an image out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> Dune HD and a BD-player is connected with HDMI (2m long) to an older Denon AVR 2300 receiver.
> 
> The receiver sends out the image with "no name" HDMI (10m long) to the Epson 6050 (or 9400 in Europe).
> 
> It says No signal.
> 
> I got the BD-players menu to show but when I put in a movie I only got the sound.
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried hooking upp the BD-player directly to the Epson WITH the same 10m cable and got it to work!
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a problem with my Denon or is it the HDMI cable that only works when connected directly?
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking at getting a good HDMI active optical cable but I am afraid that it wont solve my problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Can I change anything in the Denon or the BD-player (or Epson)?
> 
> 
> 
> How long is your HDMI cable from your receiver to your projector. I am wondering if there is are there a setting in your receiver that is not set correctly or more than likely your run from your receiver to your projector is so long that the video signal is just dropping. If you were run from your receiver to your projector is more than 25 ft long I would say that an HDMI active fiber optic cable should resolve your issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The hdmi is almost 33 ft. Plus a few ft from BD to receiver


----------



## momofx

olegg said:


> What is your expectation of noise & heat on your new projector? Do you like the way it function? Were you considering refurbished 5040UB before you buy it? Do you use shield or Apple TV 4K with it? Thanks for sharing your experience.



In the 1 hour I had it on for, it got a little warm nothing bad at all. It was so quiet I went up to it to make sure the fan was working. Yes, I was considering a 5040UB but the gamble of it suddenly dying on me is where I finally changed my mind and then the HDMI bandwidth and no I'm not using Nvidia Shield or Apple TV 4K. The projector will be used mostly for movies and little gaming on Xbox One.


Oh and btw, I did read people complaing about lag on the Xbox, etc. when playing games so I tried it anyway last night with some high paced games and I saw nothing. To me, it was just as good as my regular tv, maybe it's cos I'm not a hardcore gamer lol.


If you're considering, I think its better to get the 5050 and be done


----------



## Cypres0099

biglen said:


> Make sure you have Plex set to 1080p. The 3D won't work if it's 4k.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Oh interesting, I didn't think about that. The file is 1080p, but I'm playing through an Nvidia Shield, so it's upscaling to 4k. Kind of annoying that I'll have to go into settings each time and change to 1080p, but I'll give it a shot and see what happens.


----------



## Cypres0099

Just got my 5050ub mounted with a Chief 4500 I got on ebay for $140. Super solid mount. We sized this board to 19 inches long so that we could get 3 lag bolts on each end into the ceiling joists at 16 inch centers. Feels very very solid. Though, there is a little shaking of the picture when people are stomping around in the kitchen (directly above the projector), which is kind of annoying.

Cable running should be happening on Saturday. Using a Ruipro 15m optical HDMI cable. 

Questions:

1. When I was testing the projector, I had it sitting on a wooden box that was essentially dead center on the screen. When mounting to the ceiling, I used the 100% lens shift to get the picture where I need it (0% Tilt/Keystone Adjustment). What I noticed was that the horizontal line in pattern mode is now soft in focus compared to the vertical line and compared to both lines when the projector was dead center in the screen. Is that to be expected? Anything to do about it?

2. I tried to further adjust the above issue using panel alignment as I saw a little bit of a blue line on the horizontal pattern. Is panel alignment something that should be done when calibrating or is it reserved for other problems? Is there a how to somewhere?

3. When I was messing around with the Chief mount, a little metal piece fell out right near the lever arm that secures the whole projector into place. I assumed it had something to do with locking the lever arm in place, but I couldn't figure out where it went. The mount seems totally secure without it though, even if it would just take a thumb flick to disengage the whole projector. Any thoughts?


----------



## anilrao

I have an issue that you guys may hopefully answer.

I have an Apple TV4k with has only one HDMI port. When I directly connect the Apple TV to the 6050 with an active high-speed cable (25ft) the picture looks great. However, because there is only one HDMI out on the AppleTV and my older amp does not do 4k passthrough, I don’t have sound.

So, I got an audio extractor box (Monoprice, which can pass a 4k signal, HDR and 4:4:4) which has an HDMI in and has an HDMI out plus an optical out. The latter goes to the amp. Now I have sound, but the picture shows banding. Looking at the info on the projector; it is getting a 4k signal and 4:2:2 (which is what the Apple TV4k outputs). 

The connections are as follows: 
The Apple TV to the extractor box with a non-active high-speed cable (6ft).
The box is connected to the 6050 with an active high-speed cable (25ft).

So the questions are;
Is this a cable issue?
An extractor box issue?
Am I out of luck and need to get a modern amp? Not that I’m averse to this idea ;-).
And if I do get a new amp can I connect the Apple TV4k to it with the non-active high-speed 6ft cable?

This is driving me crazy.
Thanks for the help, guys.


----------



## MinHeadroom

@3fingerbrown thanks for the mention, putting my UB5050 Hushbox pics here for perpetuity...

The port:









The intake and exhaust level:









PJ level:









Testing and head-scratching:









Flush routed and almost done:


----------



## Magnus_CA

If volume level is pushed over CEC from my pre-pro will the 6050 see it and display it on the screen?


----------



## Pretorian

*New optical HDMI - Still no picture*

I git a really expensive hdmi but I still dont get a picture. It says HDMI 1 Not supported.


----------



## jaredmwright

Pretorian said:


> I git a really expensive hdmi but I still dont get a picture. It says HDMI 1 Not supported.


Might be something with your Denon receiver, I have a similar setup with 6050ub and a 35' HDMI cable from my Denon X4300H and it works perfectly. When switching inputs it is fast and no issues. When switching between SDR and HDR it takes a few seconds to sync, maybe 5 or so and I lose picture but it always comes back properly. 

Firmware up to date on your Denon and are you using any video processing on the Denon? I would check and disable settings and try AVR in HDMI passthrough mode.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> I git a really expensive hdmi but I still dont get a picture. It says HDMI 1 Not supported.


Is your cable definitely a Fibre Optical HDMI, if it’s an optical one it will say Source and other end will say Monitor, obviously the monitor end will go into the projector. If it is indeed an optical HDMI then take the end that says Source out of your amp and put it into your Bluray player, you won’t have sound but you should have picture and if you do then the issue must be a setting on your Denon. 

At this point it’s a case of elimination.


----------



## DavidinGA

MinHeadroom said:


> @3fingerbrown thanks for the mention, putting my UB5050 Hushbox pics here for perpetuity...
> 
> The port:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The intake and exhaust level:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PJ level:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing and head-scratching:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flush routed and almost done:





Wow, that looks legit! 

Are you putting this up on a shelf? 

What's that thing weigh in at; 40lbs?

Are you going to seal off the gap around the lens and the box to further quiet it down?


----------



## HTX^2steve

MinHeadroom said:


> @3fingerbrown thanks for the mention, putting my UB5050 Hushbox pics here for perpetuity...
> 
> The port:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The intake and exhaust level:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PJ level:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing and head-scratching:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flush routed and almost done:


Oh...so that is what dumbbells are for....


----------



## MinHeadroom

DavidinGA said:


> Wow, that looks legit!
> 
> 
> 
> Are you putting this up on a shelf?
> 
> 
> 
> What's that thing weigh in at; 40lbs?
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to seal off the gap around the lens and the box to further quiet it down?




Thank you! And yes- i estimate it is 40-50 pounds. It’s going in a crawlspace and needs to vent in/out of the room.

I just received my optical glass- that will be affixed with some form of adhesive gasket.


----------



## 3fingerbrown

I’ve read one review that said one material difference between the 5050 and the 6050 is that Epson takes the best lenses and puts them in the 6050:

https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...-4k-home-theater-projector-review-hardware-1/

“The primary invisible difference between the two, to look at the 50UB series, is the lens. Yes, it is the same 2.1:1 motorized zoom lens, but Epson, of course quality controls the lens. The difference, per Epson, is that Epson pulls the best of the lenses (via QCing them), and saves them for the Pro Cinema 6050UB. I don’t have a breakdown of how many PC6050UB’s Epson sells compared to the other three models combined, but it is the most expensive. I would guess that something like 10% to 20% of the lenses are needed for the 6050UB. I have no idea how much visible difference in clarity there is between the best and the worst of the lenses out of all of them, but, there should be a slight visible difference between the “average 6050UB” and the average 5050UB.”

What do you guys think, is there a material difference between the lenses?


----------



## gene4ht

HTX^2steve said:


> Santa in the form of a brown suit will be arriving early before all the crazy holiday sales with my new 5050ub! Now is the time for myself to do the upgrade where I have waited long enough. I have had my unbelievable Panasonic AE900U run from 2005 without ANY problems and still on the original lamp!
> 
> Upgraded practically everything for 4k/atmos in my theater and the pj is the only thing left.
> 
> I know what will happen...next years model will be a black case and native 4k but I hope this modern day projector brings good luck as my panny did for the next X years!
> 
> May my EPSON future begin! (that is the s/n checks out with Epson)


Congrats! I too upgraded from a Panny...AE3000...to an Epson 5040...also zero issues with the Panny and so far with the 5040. I’m sure you’ll be impressed with the upgrade/improvement from the Panny to all aspects of the Epson’s performance...even beyond 4K and HDR...for overall PQ...color, contrast, and sharpness...enjoy!


----------



## HTX^2steve

gene4ht said:


> Congrats! I too upgraded from a Panny...AE3000...to an Epson 5040...also zero issues with the Panny and so far with the 5040. I’m sure you’ll be impressed with the upgrade/improvement from the Panny to all aspects of the Epson’s performance...even beyond 4K and HDR...for overall PQ...color, contrast, and sharpness...enjoy!


That was a nice little projector...at least you had 1080p! Ten years I just sat on the side lines waiting and slowing upgrading. The projector will be here later today and then the fun begins for the weekend! 

I think I kinda know the answer but with this 5050ub PJ being that it is a native 1080p, the Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark (UHD Blu-ray Disc) that I bought I don't think I can utilize it to it's fullest potential due to that reason of the 4k up-scaling?

and while I am at it...for my new PJ will come a new theater movie intro! I'm in the "This and That" section of the classifieds... 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/216-a/3103104-personal-movie-intro.html#post58837462


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> Pretorian said:
> 
> 
> 
> I git a really expensive hdmi but I still dont get a picture. It says HDMI 1 Not supported.
> 
> 
> 
> Is your cable definitely a Fibre Optical HDMI, if itâ€™️s an optical one it will say Source and other end will say Monitor, obviously the monitor end will go into the projector. If it is indeed an optical HDMI then take the end that says Source out of your amp and put it into your Bluray player, you wonâ€™️t have sound but you should have picture and if you do then the issue must be a setting on your Denon.
> 
> At this point itâ€™️s a case of elimination.
Click to expand...

Yes the HDMI has those titles and when I connect it directly to the Epson I get a picture. 
I cant find how to make my Denon only passthrough. 
Also I got another BD player to work after I changed some settings in that player. So I am trying to reduce every picture enhancer on my other player and on my Dune HD but no luck so far.


----------



## MinHeadroom

HTX^2steve said:


> Oh...so that is what dumbbells are for....




Yea, I’ve been working out in order to lift and position my substantial hushbox


----------



## schmidtwi

dloiphone said:


> For those of you using a 6050ub with a Xbox one X? How many check marks you getting under 4K tv settings?
> 
> Currently have it like this Xbox one x > onkyo tx-nr656>650ub




I have a 5050 with an XBox One X, getting all green check marks except Dolby Vision. 

I just received my new unit last week, and still tweaking. But WOW - the picture is a huge improvement over my 5040!!! I loved my 5040, but the 5050 has improved color, contrast, sharpness, black levels - and HDR with the bar is awesome!!

Even my better half noticed the huge improvement - and is happy we upgraded (thank God..)...




.


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> I just got my new 6050 projector but I have trouble getting an image out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> Dune HD and a BD-player is connected with HDMI (2m long) to an older Denon AVR 2300 receiver.
> 
> The receiver sends out the image with "no name" HDMI (10m long) to the Epson 6050 (or 9400 in Europe).
> 
> It says No signal.
> 
> I got the BD-players menu to show but when I put in a movie I only got the sound.
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried hooking upp the BD-player directly to the Epson WITH the same 10m cable and got it to work!
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a problem with my Denon or is it the HDMI cable that only works when connected directly?
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking at getting a good HDMI active optical cable but I am afraid that it wont solve my problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Can I change anything in the Denon or the BD-player (or Epson)?


Get the BJC Series 3 Active cable. They work flawlessly in long runs. 

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## TimHuey

Can people in high ambient lite rooms share their screen/or paint they are using to display the 5050/6050 and do they intend to upgrade the screen or are they happy.


----------



## ckronengold

3fingerbrown said:


> Guys forgive me for not reading the over 4,000 posts in this thread, but do you think the 5050 is loud enough to want a hush box for it? I’m going to run it on a 160” screen so it might need to go into high power mode for a screen that size. The other benefit of the hush box is it covers up the awful white color and saves me from shelling out another $1,000.


Yup. 

I finally downloaded a few sound meter apps to see what it was putting out. Granted this things aren't tremendously accurate, but I was just looking for "directionally accurate." The 3 apps I grabbed (all rated 4.5 or above on the app store) showed in the high 30db to low 40db about 6" in front of the projector. 

It didn't bother me at first, but its been bothering me more lately. 

If you can build one pretty easily, I'd do it.


----------



## Magnus_CA

biglen said:


> Get the BJC Series 3 Active cable. They work flawlessly in long runs.
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


You mean Series FE?


----------



## biglen

Magnus_CA said:


> You mean Series FE?


No, Series 3.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

I am using the 40' BJC Series-3A (also mistakenly labeled as "Series-3" on their website) from my Yamaha RX-A3070 AVR to the Epson 5050UB and it works great. It is a monster of cable (very thick, not very good bend radius). I tried several long-distance HDMI solutions, including passive cables, repeaters, active hybrid fiber cables, HDMI over CAT 5e, etc, and the BJC solution worked the best, was the sturdiest cable, and the second least expensive. So, +1 for the BJC Series-3A active copper cables for use with the Epson 5050UB.

NOTE: if you're using a Yamaha AVR and an active cable and both HDMI outputs on the AVR and are having issues when viewing on only one of the two displays connected to the AVR, PM me for the solution.


----------



## Magnus_CA

What does everyone recommend HDMI-wise for 20 feet and under?


----------



## jch2

Magnus_CA said:


> What does everyone recommend HDMI-wise for 20 feet and under?


For 1080p, or even


----------



## Pretorian

I managed to get picture from my other BD player when lowering its resolution to 1080i or lower. 
But what color space should I have ?
Full or Limited RGB? - 8, 10 or 12 Bit? - RGB or YCBCR? - 4:4:4 or 4:2:2?


----------



## Pretorian

The new cable is crazy expensive, 300 dollars, and when I connect directly from my Dune HD to my Epson it works flawlessly. Even in the highest res setting on the Dune with 4k content. 
But the god damn Denon wont get the signal through.


----------



## MississippiMan

Magnus_CA said:


> What does everyone recommend HDMI-wise for 20 feet and under?





I have used the HDMI 4K Certified Cables repeatedly with great results out to 25'


_*Very *_affordable...fully Certified *Click HERE*











https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X3QDY4M/
*Monoprice Version* (a little more expensive)


----------



## MississippiMan

TimHuey said:


> Can people in high ambient lite rooms share their screen/or paint they are using to display the 5050/6050 and do they intend to upgrade the screen or are they happy.



Ask @biglen


.................and/or come over to the DIY Screen Forum. We have exactly what you need for your 5050


We specialize in contented Happy Campers whose Screens are never involved in upgrading....only Projectors.


----------



## Luminated67

Magnus_CA said:


> What does everyone recommend HDMI-wise for 20 feet and under?


In all honesty when you have a projector costing $2k and above and the future is 4K and above you really should only be considering an Opti-HDMI cable....... THE END!


----------



## HTX^2steve

Luminated67 said:


> In all honesty when you have a projector costing $2k and above and the future is 4K and above you really should only be considering an Opti-HDMI cable....... THE END!


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076SX7WXX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Luminated67

HTX^2steve said:


> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076SX7WXX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Yeah that’s the type of thing needed. In the grand scheme of things these cables are a small price to pay but at least you are guaranteed they will do the job.


----------



## t3chi3

Mounting question, I got a universal mount with 4 mounting points and the 5050 has 8 points. Do all 8 need to be utilized in order to be stable?


----------



## Luminated67

t3chi3 said:


> Mounting question, I got a universal mount with 4 mounting points and the 5050 has 8 points. Do all 8 need to be utilized in order to be stable?


Absolutely not, 4 is the norm


----------



## skylarlove1999

t3chi3 said:


> Mounting question, I got a universal mount with 4 mounting points and the 5050 has 8 points. Do all 8 need to be utilized in order to be stable?


4 should work to secure the mount to the projector 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

Well my brown Santa had a rough ride from the middle of the country and was damaged upon receiving so back goes my PJ. I get the projector and I noticed that the lens cover had opened and the lens got scratched from all the hustle and bustle of shipping. However it gives me a chance to mock setup in my theater room until I ship it back.

The mount I purchased from amazon did not fit the 5050 and I happen to have another tv mount lying around and it fit after a little cut to make the arms shorter. Another good thing is I am able to secure it to the ceiling beam run with two screws therefore no need for adding a piece of wood in-between the joists etc...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0972683275/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What a pain in the ash when it comes to mounting these heavy beasts! The mount has a 24 inch drop and with the PJ it's total legnth from top to bottom is 3 feet. So if you have the room with high ceiling then this mount will work and a cheaper alternative from those crazy $$$ dollar mounts.


----------



## momofx

schmidtwi said:


> I have a 5050 with an XBox One X, getting all green check marks except Dolby Vision.
> 
> I just received my new unit last week, and still tweaking. But WOW - the picture is a huge improvement over my 5040!!! I loved my 5040, but the 5050 has improved color, contrast, sharpness, black levels - and HDR with the bar is awesome!!
> 
> Even my better half noticed the huge improvement - and is happy we upgraded (thank God..)...



Glad to hear  I'm being totured to death right now... 5050 is here but the screen will only be here the week after next due to some freight co. Elite used not having an open delivery window 


Just wondering, have you ever considered getting professional calibration done? I was kinda thinking about it or at least using one of those calibration discs to get by til then...


----------



## HTX^2steve

I think I kinda know the answer but with this 5050ub PJ being that it is a native 1080p said:


> I have the disc but don't know if it will work being the PJ is native 1080.


----------



## biglen

momofx said:


> Glad to hear  I'm being totured to death right now... 5050 is here but the screen will only be here the week after next due to some freight co. Elite used not having an open delivery window
> 
> 
> Just wondering, have you ever considered getting professional calibration done? I was kinda thinking about it or at least using one of those calibration discs to get by til then...


I just got my 5050 calibrated a couple weeks ago. I can definitely see a difference after it was calibrated, and my wife even noticed a difference. Well worth the money if you ask me. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## socwrkr

I'm really jazzed to have just ordered the 5050ub after having a benq w1070 for nearly a decade. I am sure there are multiple posts about this that I am missing but I promise I have used the search function and google and am still struggling to find ceiling mount recommendations for this (aside from Chief which is very expensive). Any recommendations you all have would be very welcome (looking for something quite close to the ceiling). I've noticed the PCMD ones on ebay but haven't found any reviews on those so would also be interested to hear any thoughts on that one. 
Thanks much!


----------



## skylarlove1999

socwrkr said:


> I'm really jazzed to have just ordered the 5050ub after having a benq w1070 for nearly a decade. I am sure there are multiple posts about this that I am missing but I promise I have used the search function and google and am still struggling to find ceiling mount recommendations for this (aside from Chief which is very expensive). Any recommendations you all have would be very welcome (looking for something quite close to the ceiling). I've noticed the PCMD ones on ebay but haven't found any reviews on those so would also be interested to hear any thoughts on that one.
> 
> Thanks much!


I had a PCMD mount for my 5040. Very well machined and easy to adjust. For the price it is hard to beat. The Chief mounts are fantastic but as you mentioned very expensive. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

skylarlove1999 said:


> I had a PCMD mount for my 5040. Very well machined and easy to adjust. For the price it is hard to beat. The Chief mounts are fantastic but as you mentioned very expensive.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I got the Sanus Vision mount model VP1-B1 on sale for $230. I'm pretty sure it will be the last mount I'll ever need due to its versatility in matching mounting holes.
Sorry, my tablet isn't letting me paste a link.


----------



## momofx

biglen said:


> I just got my 5050 calibrated a couple weeks ago. I can definitely see a difference after it was calibrated, and my wife even noticed a difference. Well worth the money if you ask me.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 
I'm probably going to get Jeff Meier of Accucal to do it, as he is about 250 miles away from me. I heard nothing but good things about him


----------



## Magnus_CA

momofx said:


> I'm probably going to get Jeff Meier of Accucal to do it, as he is about 250 miles away from me. I heard nothing but good things about him


Jeff is great. He calibrated my Kuro back in the day and I plan to have him out to cal my 6050.


----------



## skylarlove1999

momofx said:


> I'm probably going to get Jeff Meier of Accucal to do it, as he is about 250 miles away from me. I heard nothing but good things about him


I had Jeff do my audio and my video, Denon and Epson 5040. I recommend doing both. Some of the best money I spent in my theater. Great guy , felt like having a friend over to calibrate my theater.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

Can I sync my old 3d glasses that works with Epson eh-tw5900 so they work with the new 6050?


----------



## jaredmwright

Pretorian said:


> Can I sync my old 3d glasses that works with Epson eh-tw5900 so they work with the new 6050?


I use my 5030ub with my 6050ub and they work great.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

jaredmwright said:


> Pretorian said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can I sync my old 3d glasses that works with Epson eh-tw5900 so they work with the new 6050?
> 
> 
> 
> I use my 5030ub with my 6050ub and they work great.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ok. Mine are older and Panasonic. Maybe I need a new pair.


----------



## schmidtwi

momofx said:


> Just wondering, have you ever considered getting professional calibration done? I was kinda thinking about it or at least using one of those calibration discs to get by til then...



Yes, I have considered professional calibration, may do that at some point. For now, just using R.Masciola's HDR-10 UHD Test Patterns - works pretty well.


----------



## socwrkr

skylarlove1999 said:


> I had a PCMD mount for my 5040. Very well machined and easy to adjust. For the price it is hard to beat. The Chief mounts are fantastic but as you mentioned very expensive.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks for taking time to reply. I appreciate it.


----------



## 3fingerbrown

Guys I was looking at the 5050 but read that the 6050 includes the anamorphic lens option for widescreen 2.40 viewing. I want to put in a 2.40 screen so I’m guessing the 6050 is the way to go for me, am I right? Thanks


----------



## rekbones

3fingerbrown said:


> Guys I was looking at the 5050 but read that the 6050 includes the anamorphic lens option for widescreen 2.40 viewing. I want to put in a 2.40 screen so I’m guessing the 6050 is the way to go for me, am I right? Thanks


Only if you have or plan to purchase an A lens. A good one cost about $3K or more. Most just use the zoom method and 5050 is fully capable.


----------



## olegg

So, what is the deal with 6050UB? Trying hard to decide between 5050 & 6050 mainly for black case and warranty. Big hope for BF to have a discount.

1. Black case
2. Extra bulb ( ? cost)
3. 2 additional calibration modes: *ISF Day and ISF Night*
4. Better optics (quality control supposedly) and because of it better contrast than 5050UB
5. Best ceiling mount (if someone needs one - ? cost)
6. 3 years of warranty (+1 on top of 2 years 5050UB)
7. Anamorphic option (if someone needs one)
8. Cable cover

The price premium for Pro Cinema around ~1K I suppose. If anyone, who upgraded or downgraded for that matter can write a few words why you did that?

Updated the list, Thanks* jch2*


----------



## jch2

olegg said:


> So, what is the deal with 6050UB? Trying hard to decide between 5050 & 6050 mainly for black case and warranty. Big hope for BF to have a discount.
> 1. Black case
> 2. Better optics (quality control supposedly) and because of it better contrast than 5050UB
> 3. Best ceiling mount (if someone needs one)
> 4. 3 years of warranty (+1 on top of 2 year 5050UB)
> 5. Anamorphic option (if someone needs one). Do I missed anything?
> 
> The price premium for Pro Cinema around ~1K I suppose. If anyone, who upgraded or downgraded for that matter can write a few words why you did that?


The 6050UB also has two more color modes: ISF Day and ISF Night, and an extra bulb. I'm about to upgrade from a 5050UB to a 6050UB, and pay the price premium to get it. I'll post here with my impressions after I install it.

I also won't need the Chief CHF4500 ceiling mount, so if you want one (it works with 5040, 5050, 6040, and 6050), PM me and make me an offer.

-J.C.


----------



## HTX^2steve

olegg said:


> So, what is the deal with 6050UB? Trying hard to decide between 5050 & 6050 mainly for black case and warranty. Big hope for BF to have a discount.
> 
> 1. Black case
> 2. Extra bulb ( ? cost)
> 3. 2 additional calibration modes: *ISF Day and ISF Night*
> 4. Better optics (quality control supposedly) and because of it better contrast than 5050UB
> 5. Best ceiling mount (if someone needs one - ? cost)
> 6. 3 years of warranty (+1 on top of 2 years 5050UB)
> 7. Anamorphic option (if someone needs one)
> 8. Cable cover
> 
> The price premium for Pro Cinema around ~1K I suppose. If anyone, who upgraded or downgraded for that matter can write a few words why you did that?
> 
> Updated the list, Thanks* jch2*



9. Higher credit card limit

Does it really matter? PJ will be outdated in a couple of years...save the grand...that's just my 5050 cent opinion.


----------



## olegg

HTX^2steve said:


> 9. Higher credit card limit
> 
> Does it really matter? PJ will be outdated in a couple of years...save the grand...that's just my 5050 cent opinion.


 By the same logic maybe refurb 5040UB will do, no seriously it is on my radar too. My wife does not even want to hear about regular priced 5050UB/6050UB


----------



## TimHuey

3fingerbrown said:


> Guys I was looking at the 5050 but read that the 6050 includes the anamorphic lens option for widescreen 2.40 viewing. I want to put in a 2.40 screen so Iâ€™️m guessing the 6050 is the way to go for me, am I right? Thanks


Some A lenses are on sale at B&H for use with projectors. Some here have used them and are happy and one quarter of the price of a panamorph.

The anamorphot 50 does the anamorphic squeeze.


----------



## TimHuey

Everytime I decide to break down and get a 6050 I get second thoughts. This week it's the fact that it's a lamp based projector and not a laser like the Optoma UHZ65. Black levels aren't as good on the Optoma but if I can't see the image in ambient lite living room black levels dont matter. And the 6050 is a the lower end of the fL I need . So after 250 hours on the lamp I may not have adequate performance any more and also outside my return period at BestBuy.


----------



## jeahrens

TimHuey said:


> Some A lenses are on sale at B&H for use with projectors. Some here have used them and are happy and one quarter of the price of a panamorph.
> 
> The anamorphot 50 does the anamorphic squeeze.


I'd be concerned with that lens preserving the necessary detail of the 4K image. Also it looks like it would put some constraints on throw distance and lens shift.



TimHuey said:


> Everytime I decide to break down and get a 6050 I get second thoughts. This week it's the fact that it's a lamp based projector and not a laser like the Optoma UHZ65. Black levels aren't as good on the Optoma but if I can't see the image in ambient lite living room black levels dont matter. And the 6050 is a the lower end of the fL I need . So after 250 hours on the lamp I may not have adequate performance any more and also outside my return period at BestBuy.


The XPR DLPs represent a fairly significant step back in image quality, but your room conditions may mitigate this to the point the laser light source is a better option. It's too bad you can't do something with hanging black curtains or using black felt to improve the room.


----------



## HTX^2steve

TimHuey said:


> Everytime I decide to break down and get a 6050 I get second thoughts. This week it's the fact that it's a lamp based projector and not a laser like the Optoma UHZ65. Black levels aren't as good on the Optoma but if I can't see the image in ambient lite living room black levels dont matter. And the 6050 is a the lower end of the fL I need . So after 250 hours on the lamp I may not have adequate performance any more and also outside my return period at BestBuy.


Unfortunately there is no one size fits all yet. It comes down to how you are going to use a projector. Deal breakers for myself are LCD and motorized functions at the lowest cost and the 5050 fit the bill.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Quick question to those with refurbished Epson projectors...How do you know? Is it something visible or software that says you have a refurbished unit?


----------



## olegg

HTX^2steve said:


> Quick question to those with refurbished Epson projectors...How do you know? Is it something visible or software that says you have a refurbished unit?


I can only assume this question would be answered better in this thread They all look into the service menu for info on total hours and bulb replacement.


----------



## TimHuey

HTX^2steve said:


> Deal breakers for myself are LCD and motorized functions at the lowest cost and the 5050 fit the bill.


I love the lens memory on the epson. It does make the anamorphic process a lot easier.


----------



## Senator

Hi,


I'm looking at getting the 5050ub (well, NZ equivalent being TW9400) and have a query on the brightness of the image.



I have used the calculator at projector central and its coming up as being able to do the throw distance / screen size that I want, however it comes up with a brightness of 71 ftl of light, indicating it will be far too bright for a theatre, or is this just misleading?


The projector lens will be about 3.7m from the screen (12.5ft) which is about as far back as it can be (room is 4.4m - 14.4ft). I am looking at a 106inch screen 16:9


I'll be watching mostly streamed content (Netflix, HBO now, Disney+) with maybe the odd bit of sport but mostly movies via appleTV4k.


What are the implications of such a bright image (if it is infact that bright?). There doesn't seem to be anything on projector central's calculator to factor in which mode I will be using, I assume the cinema modes are less bright(?)


Thanks
Sen


edit


Also, whilst its a dedicated room, only 1 wall is painted in a dark colour, with the rest being a neutral white/grey colour and white ceiling. Minister of finance and decorating veto'd a cave


----------



## skylarlove1999

Senator said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> I'm looking at getting the 5050ub (well, NZ equivalent being TW9400) and have a query on the brightness of the image.
> 
> 
> 
> I have used the calculator at projector central and its coming up as being able to do the throw distance / screen size that I want, however it comes up with a brightness of 71 ftl of light, indicating it will be far too bright for a theatre, or is this just misleading?
> 
> 
> The projector lens will be about 3.7m from the screen (12.5ft) which is about as far back as it can be (room is 4.4m - 14.4ft). I am looking at a 106inch screen 16:9
> 
> 
> I'll be watching mostly streamed content (Netflix, HBO now, Disney+) with maybe the odd bit of sport but mostly movies via appleTV4k.
> 
> 
> What are the implications of such a bright image (if it is infact that bright?). There doesn't seem to be anything on projector central's calculator to factor in which mode I will be using, I assume the cinema modes are less bright(?)
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Sen
> 
> 
> edit
> 
> 
> Also, whilst its a dedicated room, only 1 wall is painted in a dark colour, with the rest being a neutral white/grey colour and white ceiling. Minister of finance and decorating veto'd a cave


You can run the map in ECO and one of the lower lamp modes to reduce brightness for SDR content . You will enjoy the brightness for using the Digital Cinema mode for HDR content.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## amdar

I have recently added an Apple TV 4K into my home theatre setup. The projected images of Apple TV home screen and the contents are too bright as compare to Fire TV 4k and Roku Ultra. Are there any specific configurations for apple TV contents?


----------



## HTX^2steve

olegg said:


> I can only assume this question would be answered better in this thread They all look into the service menu for info on total hours and bulb replacement.


I sent you a PM...


----------



## TimHuey

I'm not sure why the disconnect between fL on a direct view set vs fL on the projectors. We don't complain about our TVs being too bright watching CNN or Weather CHannel or SyFy Channel. I'm not sure why we would complain about watching a movie at those fLs on a projector vs a direct view set.


----------



## Magnus_CA

Anyone using close to 100% of the vertical lens shift? If so, are you having any pq issues like a soft picture?


----------



## jch2

Magnus_CA said:


> Anyone using close to 100% of the vertical lens shift? If so, are you having any pq issues like a soft picture?


My 5050UB projector sits 15' back from a 10' 16:9 screen, and the center of the lens sits 19" above the top of the screen. So, I use almost all the lens shift for 16:9 viewing. For 2:1 I shift the image down and do bottom and top blanking to eliminate the bottom black bar (in exchange for a larger top bar). For 2:35:1 I shift it down as low as it will go, but still don't quite eliminate the bottom bar (there's about 3" left). I wish it had a touch more vertical shift range.

The lens memory works great. Although I have to save to memory, load from memory, tweak, and save back to the same memory slot a few times to get it spot on.

There's no focus or panel alignment / convergence aberrations at or near maximum shift. I do get a little keystoning in the corners (slightly curved left and right sides where it is narrower at top and bottom than the middle) but it's not off by that much and I can set the zoom to minimize the impact. Unfortunately the unit has no multi-point keystone correction to resolve it.

I would say the image at maximum vertical shift is very good to excellent.

I'm getting a 6050UB upgrade soon, and if the results are any different I will post a follow-up.


----------



## Magnus_CA

jch2 said:


> My 5050UB projector sits 15' back from a 10' 16:9 screen, and the center of the lens sits 19" above the top of the screen. So, I use almost all the lens shift for 16:9 viewing. For 2:1 I shift the image down and do bottom and top blanking to eliminate the bottom black bar (in exchange for a larger top bar). For 2:35:1 I shift it down as low as it will go, but still don't quite eliminate the bottom bar (there's about 3" left). I wish it had a touch more vertical shift range.
> 
> The lens memory works great. Although I have to save to memory, load from memory, tweak, and save back to the same memory slot a few times to get it spot on.
> 
> There's no focus or panel alignment / convergence aberrations at or near maximum shift. I do get a little keystoning in the corners (slightly curved left and right sides where it is narrower at top and bottom than the middle) but it's not off by that much and I can set the zoom to minimize the impact. Unfortunately the unit has no multi-point keystone correction to resolve it.
> 
> I would say the image at maximum vertical shift is very good to excellent.
> 
> I'm getting a 6050UB upgrade soon, and if the results are any different I will post a follow-up.


Thanks for the reply. I'll be nowhere near 18" from the top of the screen so that is very reassuring.


----------



## ryudoadema

Anyone try playing with the 3d depth setting to get rid of crosstalk? There was someone who talked about crosstalk nearly disappearing on a particular epson when using +2 on the depth setting.


----------



## dloiphone

schmidtwi said:


> I have a 5050 with an XBox One X, getting all green check marks except Dolby Vision.
> 
> I just received my new unit last week, and still tweaking. But WOW - the picture is a huge improvement over my 5040!!! I loved my 5040, but the 5050 has improved color, contrast, sharpness, black levels - and HDR with the bar is awesome!!
> 
> Even my better half noticed the huge improvement - and is happy we upgraded (thank God..)...
> 
> .


Interesting, as I am currently only receiving 3 checks. Are you using a fiber HDMI?


----------



## Paul Cordingley

*4K/60Hz whine - anyone else?*

I've seen the odd post here and there about some owners experiencing a whine at 4K/60Hz but it doesn't appear to upset most people. My newly installed TW-9400 (The Aussie version of the 6050) is doing this and it's a problem for me. My old TW-9300 (6040) does not do this.

Is this a problem for other users? It may that mine is louder than normal and I've been unlucky. It's a whine/hum, not related to the fans or power mode at all, at a fixed frequency, a smooth sine-wave which burrows into my head. Goes away at 24Hz. Projector is mounted nearly directly over my head, back a little bit. It's very directional too - if I move my head forward a bit, it's not as prominent. Bloody annoying where I sit though.

Otherwise this projector is spectacular. A nice step up from the previous model which I've enjoyed for over 3 years. But the whine is killing me.


----------



## schmidtwi

dloiphone said:


> Interesting, as I am currently only receiving 3 checks. Are you using a fiber HDMI?



I am using a 25' Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI, but I'm experiencing some intermittent video drops that I didn't have with my 5040. 



So I just bought a Furui Fiber optic HDMI this week, will install tomorrow to see if that fixes the problem.


----------



## skylarlove1999

schmidtwi said:


> I am using a 25' Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI, but I'm experiencing some intermittent video drops that I didn't have with my 5040.
> 
> 
> 
> So I just bought a Furui Fiber optic HDMI this week, will install tomorrow to see if that fixes the problem.


My Furui cable performs well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

skylarlove1999 said:


> My Furui cable performs well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I use this one with no issues either 4K HDMI Cable, HDMI Cord (35 feet HDMI to HDMI, Top Series) supports ([email protected], 1080p FullHD, UHD, Ultra HD, 3D, High Speed with Ethernet, ARC, PS4, XBOX, HDTV) by KabelDirekt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008U7SLEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZD3Db7BN1FMH


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

jaredmwright said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> My Furui cable performs well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I use this one with no issues either 4K HDMI Cable, HDMI Cord (35 feet HDMI to HDMI, Top Series) supports ([email protected], 1080p FullHD, UHD, Ultra HD, 3D, High Speed with Ethernet, ARC, PS4, XBOX, HDTV) by KabelDirekt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008U7SLEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZD3Db7BN1FMH
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

A 40' KabelDirect passive cable worked for me for less than 9gbps bandwidth modes, but didn't work for high bandwidth modes like 4k60 12-bit 4:2:2.

I used a Blue Jeans Cable Series-3A active copper cable. The 50' MavisLink and RUIPRO active hybrid fiber cables worked too. They were in fact almost identical but the MavisLink costs $60 vs $160 for the RUIPRO. The RUIPRO support was far more responsive (responded in less than a few hours, whereas MavisLink support never replied). We went with the Blue Jeans Cable in the end because it was a lot sturdier (very thick, but low bend radius), my AV installer preferred the sturdier cable, he's had issues with the thin fiber cables being damaged during pulls and not working after installed.

See this thread for more details of tested working long HDMI cables (NOTE: they are all active cables, no passive cable passed all tests).

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/#/topics/2834097


----------



## rjguk

Paul Cordingley said:


> I've seen the odd post here and there about some owners experiencing a whine at 4K/60Hz but it doesn't appear to upset most people. My newly installed TW-9400 (The Aussie version of the 6050) is doing this and it's a problem for me. My old TW-9300 (6040) does not do this.
> 
> Is this a problem for other users? It may that mine is louder than normal and I've been unlucky. It's a whine/hum, not related to the fans or power mode at all, at a fixed frequency, a smooth sine-wave which burrows into my head. Goes away at 24Hz. Projector is mounted nearly directly over my head, back a little bit. It's very directional too - if I move my head forward a bit, it's not as prominent. Bloody annoying where I sit though.
> 
> Otherwise this projector is spectacular. A nice step up from the previous model which I've enjoyed for over 3 years. But the whine is killing me.



My TW7300 did that, and I made a few measurements that showed a peak 'whine' at a few different frequencies depending on the input signal and whether 4Ke was active or not. The worst was with a 60Hz input such as the Amazon Firestick4k. IIRC that was a tone of around 400Hz, so a wavelength of 0.86m which would probably account for why a head movement/tilt picks up peaks and nulls in the sound.


I've now got a TW9400, and it has the whine at 60Hz input, just the same. However, I now use an Apple TV with the default framerate set to 50Hz (mainly the menus) and with frame rate matching it means that normal Netflix or Amazon content is at 24p. No whine. The other input is a Sky Q TV box, and being a UK box it is fixed at 50Hz for everything. No whine. If I end up on content that induces the whine I'm probably in the actual film, so the whine is pretty much drowned out by the sounds.


Since it is raining here (again) I may do the same measurements on the TW9400 to see exactly what's produced. Its an excuse to set up the laptop, UMIK-1, tripod and so on. And then since the stuff is out it would be silly not to do some messing around with the sub tuning...






*Edit* here's what I measured.
Using REW's RTA feature I ran the PJ with some different input signals by setting the Apple TV output to the different ones. I also gave it a 1080p/60 signal and switched 4k enhancement on and off (it is always on for the 4k signals). The UMIK-1 mic was resting on top of the PJ, which is ceiling mounted.

The two images below illustrate it - it only has that peak at just over 400 Hz when getting 60Hz material with 4K enhancement on. Everything else is just noise. (There was background noise of rain and traffic, so the two sets of data don't match completely).
If you open the thumbnails you can cycle rapidly between them by pressing the right-hand button.


----------



## i007spectre

Hello everyone. Recently purchased the 5050 to replace my 5030. Absolutely love it however I have a question about the dynamic iris on the 5050.
On my 5030 I could clearly hear when the dynamic iris was working. However I am just wondering if the iris on the 5050 is near silent. I cannot hear it like I could on the 30. Is there any way form me know if it is actually working?


----------



## qlizard

Hi all,
I am working through this entire thread (on page 130 I think) as I am about to take possession of a 6050. This is my first HT and projector. I'm trying to learn as much as possible and have a long way to go. But I'd like to get it up and mounted so I can work with it. I have the Chief 4500 mount.

I have a question about mount location and how far back I should put it. My room is as follows:

15' x 21' light controlled room with medium dark paint on walls/ceiling and same with carpet. Not as dark paint and carpet as I would like but as much as the wife would agree to. With MississippiMan's help and plans, I built a 144" x 66" AT spandex screen which should have .7 gain. The intent is to primarily view 2.39:1 content but have a little more height when I have 16x9 content. So watching 2.39 content the diagonal will be 156" and in 16x9 it will be 134". Yes, I"ll have bars either way which I'll have to ignore/mask.

Plugging the numbers in for 16x9 on the Epson site (why don't they have a 2.3x option?) and Projector central, it looks like the throw range runs from around 16' to 32' (so essentially the back of my room, 21'). Is my assumption correct that to produce the brightest and best image I should place it as close to the front of this range, around 16'? Or will it not make that much of a difference, and I could actually place it at the back where it would be less conspicuous and more out of the way?


----------



## Paul Cordingley

rjguk said:


> My TW7300 did that, and I made a few measurements that showed a peak 'whine' at a few different frequencies depending on the input signal and whether 4Ke was active or not. The worst was with a 60Hz input such as the Amazon Firestick4k. IIRC that was a tone of around 400Hz, so a wavelength of 0.86m which would probably account for why a head movement/tilt picks up peaks and nulls in the sound.
> 
> 
> I've now got a TW9400, and it has the whine at 60Hz input, just the same. However, I now use an Apple TV with the default framerate set to 50Hz (mainly the menus) and with frame rate matching it means that normal Netflix or Amazon content is at 24p. No whine. The other input is a Sky Q TV box, and being a UK box it is fixed at 50Hz for everything. No whine. If I end up on content that induces the whine I'm probably in the actual film, so the whine is pretty much drowned out by the sounds.
> 
> 
> Since it is raining here (again) I may do the same measurements on the TW9400 to see exactly what's produced. Its an excuse to set up the laptop, UMIK-1, tripod and so on. And then since the stuff is out it would be silly not to do some messing around with the sub tuning...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit* here's what I measured.
> Using REW's RTA feature I ran the PJ with some different input signals by setting the Apple TV output to the different ones. I also gave it a 1080p/60 signal and switched 4k enhancement on and off (it is always on for the 4k signals). The UMIK-1 mic was resting on top of the PJ, which is ceiling mounted.
> 
> The two images below illustrate it - it only has that peak at just over 400 Hz when getting 60Hz material with 4K enhancement on. Everything else is just noise. (There was background noise of rain and traffic, so the two sets of data don't match completely).
> If you open the thumbnails you can cycle rapidly between them by pressing the right-hand button.


Thank you!! This is extremely helpful, and I appreciate the detail and measurements you've given.

You know, it never occurred to me that 50Hz wouldn't also whine - I simply expected a lower frequency, but indeed it doesn't whine at all. So I've put the ATV and Vero 4K+ at 50Hz for the menus, and of course as you say the actual content will be typically at 24Hz with frame matching so that sorts those two out.

However I do watch a lot of YouTube, and since so much of it is so high quality these days, more than not natively 60Hz/4K, I get the whine. I won't go into frame-rate matching on a ShieldTV as that's out of scope, but suffice it to say it's not reliable with YouTube yet (using a 3rd party app called Refresh Rate).

Very interesting that your 7300 whined. My 9300 does not. I know I've read of people with the older model getting e-shift buzzing and so on, and since most people _seem _ to not have the whine, at least judging by the general lack of complaints, I am still not clear whether this is an operating characteristic of these new models, or simply a tolerance problem/e-shift lottery as it definitely was with the 9300.

I can't say I'm happy, even with this improvement from your 50Hz suggestion. I shouldn't have to work around a problem given how much this thing costs and how hard it already was to justify given how good the 9300 is.


----------



## DavidinGA

Senator said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> I'm looking at getting the 5050ub (well, NZ equivalent being TW9400) and have a query on the brightness of the image.
> 
> 
> 
> I have used the calculator at projector central and its coming up as being able to do the throw distance / screen size that I want, however it comes up with a brightness of 71 ftl of light, indicating it will be far too bright for a theatre, or is this just misleading?
> 
> 
> The projector lens will be about 3.7m from the screen (12.5ft) which is about as far back as it can be (room is 4.4m - 14.4ft). I am looking at a 106inch screen 16:9
> 
> 
> I'll be watching mostly streamed content (Netflix, HBO now, Disney+) with maybe the odd bit of sport but mostly movies via appleTV4k.
> 
> 
> What are the implications of such a bright image (if it is infact that bright?). There doesn't seem to be anything on projector central's calculator to factor in which mode I will be using, I assume the cinema modes are less bright(?)
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Sen
> 
> 
> edit
> 
> 
> Also, whilst its a dedicated room, only 1 wall is painted in a dark colour, with the rest being a neutral white/grey colour and white ceiling. Minister of finance and decorating veto'd a cave


I wouldn't put to much stock in those online lumen calculators. If I had to guess I'd say they are inflated 20% over real world use/setup. 

My setup measures 23fL in natural medium lamp with a 150" and the online calculator says I should have 38fL! That's a massive difference. Even if I bump up to high lamp I'm only seeing about 30fL.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

qlizard said:


> Hi all,
> I am working through this entire thread (on page 130 I think) as I am about to take possession of a 6050. This is my first HT and projector. I'm trying to learn as much as possible and have a long way to go. But I'd like to get it up and mounted so I can work with it. I have the Chief 4500 mount.
> 
> I have a question about mount location and how far back I should put it. My room is as follows:
> 
> 15' x 21' light controlled room with medium dark paint on walls/ceiling and same with carpet. Not as dark paint and carpet as I would like but as much as the wife would agree to. With MississippiMan's help and plans, I built a 144" x 66" AT spandex screen which should have .7 gain. The intent is to primarily view 2.39:1 content but have a little more height when I have 16x9 content. So watching 2.39 content the diagonal will be 156" and in 16x9 it will be 134". Yes, I"ll have bars either way which I'll have to ignore/mask.
> 
> Plugging the numbers in for 16x9 on the Epson site (why don't they have a 2.3x option?) and Projector central, it looks like the throw range runs from around 16' to 32' (so essentially the back of my room, 21'). Is my assumption correct that to produce the brightest and best image I should place it as close to the front of this range, around 16'? Or will it not make that much of a difference, and I could actually place it at the back where it would be less conspicuous and more out of the way?


Firstly 144x66 is a 2.18:1 screen format, which is unusual.

From this review:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm

_*Zoom Lens Light Loss.* Going from the widest to the full telephoto setting on the 2.1x zoom lens resulted in a little more than 28% loss of light in any given color mode. 

_These measurements are taken with 100% zoom.
_









_Lamps loose around 25% brightness after 500h, after that the light loss is linear until the estimated hour rate of the lamp, which is 50% of it's original brightness.

The reason there is no 2.39:1 option on the Epson website is because this projector outputs in 16:9. Only an A lens will change that.

So when calculating screen brightness, the entire 16:9 dimensions need to be used, even if the video is in 2.39:1 format.

Use this link to calculate screen dimensions:
https://www.draperinc.com/projectionscreens/customsizecalculator.aspx

Use this link to calculate square surface of screen:
https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/construction/square-footage-calculator.php

For example, an 156" screen in 2.39:1 format is 144" x 60.25". 
But the projector output a 16:9 image. The width of the screen in the same. An 16:9 screen with 144" width is 165.2" diagonal and 81" height.
165.2 x 81=92.93 ft²

After taking the preset and lamp mode you want, for example Natural in Eco at 1438 lumens, divide it by 92.93 = 15.47fL
This would be on a white 1.0 screen. On a 0.7 screen 15.47 x 0.7=10.83fL

If the projector is going to be moved backwards, at no zoom there is 28% light loss.
10.83 x 0.72=7.72fL

After 500h the lamp will loose 25% of it's brightness, so 7.72 x 0.75=5.8fL

15fL is recommended for SDR, 30+fL for HDR.

So it depends on what preset, lamp mode, zoom, and screen size is being used.
But with such a large screen, the closer the better. Unless you want to use a higher lamp mode and preset, which would be more noisy and would wear out the lamp quicker.
Since you already have the projector, you can try them out to see what would be ok.

The WCG filter cuts the light output in half, so the more reason to place it closer. 

@Senator you can use this method as well, the lumens and zoom lens values are the same for the TW9400.


----------



## qlizard

Wow, that is a lot of information that I will need to take some time to digest and try to understand.



noob00224 said:


> Firstly 144x66 is a 2.18:1 screen format, which is unusual.


Yes, I realize the ratio is unusual. Sometimes my thinking is unusual - but I'm hoping to optimize/compromise between the two "standard" ratios.



noob00224 said:


> The reason there is no 2.39:1 option on the Epson website is because this projector outputs in 16:9. Only an A lens will change that.
> 
> So when calculating screen brightness, the entire 16:9 dimensions need to be used, even if the video is in 2.39:1 format.
> 
> For example, an 156" screen in 2.39:1 format is 144" x 60.25".
> But the projector output a 16:9 image. The width of the screen in the same. An 16:9 screen with 144" width is 165.2" diagonal and 81" height.
> 165.2 x 81=92.93 ft²


I can understand the above, but my plan in 16x9 was not to project to the width of the screen. Only to the height. So at 66" height, the width is 122" for a diagonal of 139". Not sure if this changes anything.


----------



## noob00224

qlizard said:


> Wow, that is a lot of information that I will need to take some time to digest and try to understand.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I realize the ratio is unusual. Sometimes my thinking is unusual - but I'm hoping to optimize/compromise between the two "standard" ratios.
> 
> 
> 
> I can understand the above, but my plan in 16x9 was not to project to the width of the screen. Only to the height. So at 66" height, the width is 122" for a diagonal of 139". Not sure if this changes anything.



It's explained in detail above, but I'll reiterate:
When watching a movie in 2.39:1 format, the projector still outputs 16:9. My point was that for calculating lumens/fL the dimensions of the 16:9 image (that the 2.39:1 image fits into) need to be used. 


In a previous post you mentioned an 156" for 2.39:1. Dimensions would be 144" x 60.25". 
The 16:9 screen that the 156" 2.39:1 screen fits into has the dimensions: 144x 81. It has 81" height because it's a 16:9 format. The difference between the 60.25 and the 81" is where the black bars are.

The 16:9 screen was first 134", then 139".
For 134: 116.8 x 65.7
For 139: 121.1 x 68.1

Not sure where the 66" comes from. 

A 16:9 screen with a width of 122 has 68.6" height and a diagonal of 140".
A 16:9 screen with a height of 66" has a width of 117.3" and a diagonal of 134.6".


The lumens/fL values need to calculated with the square surface of the screen (16:9).


If you want a CIH (Constant Image Height), the height of the screen needs to remain the same. 
This is 2.35:1 and 16:9 CIH:


----------



## noob00224

As it's been mentioned before, for an 156" diagonal in 2.39:1 screen the square surface used for calculations needs to be that of the 16:9 screen that it fits into.

That 165.2" screen in 16:9 format is for measuring, not watching, unless you want an 16:9 image that size.


----------



## rjguk

Paul Cordingley said:


> Thank you!! This is extremely helpful, and I appreciate the detail and measurements you've given.
> 
> You know, it never occurred to me that 50Hz wouldn't also whine - I simply expected a lower frequency, but indeed it doesn't whine at all. So I've put the ATV and Vero 4K+ at 50Hz for the menus, and of course as you say the actual content will be typically at 24Hz with frame matching so that sorts those two out.
> 
> However I do watch a lot of YouTube, and since so much of it is so high quality these days, more than not natively 60Hz/4K, I get the whine. I won't go into frame-rate matching on a ShieldTV as that's out of scope, but suffice it to say it's not reliable with YouTube yet (using a 3rd party app called Refresh Rate).
> 
> Very interesting that your 7300 whined. My 9300 does not. I know I've read of people with the older model getting e-shift buzzing and so on, and since most people _seem _ to not have the whine, at least judging by the general lack of complaints, I am still not clear whether this is an operating characteristic of these new models, or simply a tolerance problem/e-shift lottery as it definitely was with the 9300.
> 
> I can't say I'm happy, even with this improvement from your 50Hz suggestion. I shouldn't have to work around a problem given how much this thing costs and how hard it already was to justify given how good the 9300 is.



I'm very pleased indeed with the 9400/6050. The whine is drowned out by the sound system except when choosing what to watch, and then I think it is just tuned out after a few seconds. Yes, it could be quieter but I haven't really noticed it that much, just like the fan noise or the skittering of the iris. I just turn the sound up. 

Pardon?
What was that?
...


----------



## Paul Cordingley

Unfortunately for me, my brain won't tune it out, not even after a few minutes. With the fan on normal, it's well, well above the noise floor, even with music and speaking going on. My unit may be abnormally loud, which is something I have to work out with Epson.


----------



## qlizard

noob00224 said:


> When watching a movie in 2.39:1 format, the projector still outputs 16:9. My point was that for calculating lumens/fL the dimensions of the 16:9 image (that the 2.39:1 image fits into) need to be used.


This is what was tripping me up. I understand now. The black bars are part of the picture and the whole thing needs be taken into consideration when considering the size. thanks for the help. Looks like the short answer is that after getting the correct calculation, for best picture I need to bring it almost to the front of the throw range. Thanks for taking the time and working through this with me.


----------



## Magnus_CA

Anyone think 10' is too close for a 107" diagonal screen? I know I'm closer than the distance calculators would like.


----------



## noob00224

Magnus_CA said:


> Anyone think 10' is too close for a 107" diagonal screen? I know I'm closer than the distance calculators would like.


Won't work.
The closest distance for an 107" screen is 10'6". Minimum throw range is 1.35x.
The width of the 107" screen is 93.3'. 
93.3 x 1.35 = 125.955‬"=10.49625' / 10'6"


----------



## Magnus_CA

noob00224 said:


> Won't work.
> The closest distance for an 107" screen is 10'6". Minimum throw range is 1.35x.
> The width of the 107" screen is 93.3'.
> 93.3 x 1.35 = 125.955‬"=10.49625' / 10'6"


Sorry, I should have clarified. My throw distance is 16 feet. My seating distance is 10 feet. I was wondering if I'm pushing my FOV, especially for gaming.


----------



## noob00224

Magnus_CA said:


> Sorry, I should have clarified. My throw distance is 16 feet. My seating distance is 10 feet. I was wondering if I'm pushing my FOV, especially for gaming.


It's up to the individual. Just project it on the wall and see what works.


----------



## olegg

Magnus_CA said:


> Sorry, I should have clarified. My throw distance is 16 feet. My seating distance is 10 feet. I was wondering if I'm pushing my FOV, especially for gaming.


By THX recommendation which some AVSF members confirmed the seating position should be 10"- 12" diagonal for every viewing distance foot. So you're fine or as per noob00224 suggestion.


----------



## DavidinGA

Magnus_CA said:


> Anyone think 10' is too close for a 107" diagonal screen? I know I'm closer than the distance calculators would like.


Personal preference, but I think that would be fine.

I'm less than 14ft from a 150" and I feel I could be closer still. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## aeneas01

noob question:


the 6050ub has some settings that i would like to play with but they are only available when a 2k (or less) signal is received, i.e. they are grayed out when a 4k signal is received... my source is an htpc that automatically sets desktop and output rez at 3840x2160 when it detects the 6050ub, so the 6050's 2k features are greyed out.... how can i set things up so that, for example, when i play one of my 1080p bluray remux rips using my htpc the 6050ub recognizes it as such as opposed to detecting an 3810x2160 input thus making the 2k setting unavailable? thanks!


----------



## jaredmwright

aeneas01 said:


> noob question:
> 
> 
> the 6050ub has some settings that i would like to play with but they are only available when a 2k (or less) signal is received, i.e. they are grayed out when a 4k signal is received... my source is an htpc that automatically sets desktop and output rez at 3840x2160 when it detects the 6050ub, so the 6050's 2k features are greyed out.... how can i set things up so that, for example, when i play one of my 1080p bluray remux rips using my htpc the 6050ub recognizes it as such as opposed to detecting an 3810x2160 input thus making the 2k setting unavailable? thanks!


You would need to set your PC to output at the resolution you want the projector to negotiate at, it won't change on the fly.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## aeneas01

jaredmwright said:


> You would need to set your PC to output at the resolution you want the projector to negotiate at, it won't change on the fly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


i was afraid of that... it's easy enough to do, change my pc's output, but then i would have to manually change it again when i wanted to play a 4k hdr rip it seems...


----------



## reechings

Can someone tell me the model of the remote used for the 6050 and/or a link to buy one? Also is the power cable just a standard three prong PC style one? Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

ALRLIFE said:


> It appears the lumens numbers are lower than what was listed in the Projector Central review for the Epson 5040/6040?


Different generation.



reechings said:


> Can someone tell me the model of the remote used for the 6050 and/or a link to buy one? Also is the power cable just a standard three prong PC style one? Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


From the manual:
_To purchase a replacement remote control,call (562)276-4394(U.S.) or (905)709-3839(for dealer referral in Canada)._

https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H928020~faq-0000882-pc4050_6050?faq_cat=faq-8796158732364


----------



## reechings

noob00224 said:


> Different generation.
> 
> 
> 
> From the manual:
> _To purchase a replacement remote control,call (562)276-4394(U.S.) or (905)709-3839(for dealer referral in Canada)._
> 
> https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H928020~faq-0000882-pc4050_6050?faq_cat=faq-8796158732364


Thanks I thought there might be a model number or some listings on eBay or something. Cheers!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

reechings said:


> Thanks I thought there might be a model number or some listings on eBay or something. Cheers!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


That's what I thought as well, but there does not seem to be one.

Maybe someone has used a remote from a different brand/universal?


----------



## ShadowBoy

Luminated67 said:


> I didn't these short videos on another forum where the debate was both ScreenDoor and one's ability to see the pixels on an Epson 5050/6050/TW9400.
> 
> Here’s the two videos, the first is with 4K enhancement ON... the video starts from a distance of 3ft from the screen and I then steadily move in, finishing off just 2-3” from the screen.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtLMk_IDmcE&feature=emb_logo
> 
> The next video is from the same distances but with 4K enhancement OFF.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Na3VAIhqB0c&feature=emb_logo
> 
> Even from 3 foot from the screen the image is crystal clear and without any pixel structure.


The picture is clearly better with the enhancement on. Is the source movie a 4k disc or blu-ray? I think some people have said that using 4k enhancement with blu-ray's has made the picture softer. Do you find that to be true? One of the reasons (or hopes) for getting a 4K epson was that the 4K upscaling would improve the large collection of blu-rays I own. What has been your experience with the Epson's 4k enhancement/ upscaling of blu-rays?


----------



## Luminated67

ShadowBoy said:


> The picture is clearly better with the enhancement on. Is the source movie a 4k disc or blu-ray? I think some people have said that using 4k enhancement with blu-ray's has made the picture softer. Do you find that to be true? One of the reasons (or hopes) for getting a 4K epson was that the 4K upscaling would improve the large collection of blu-rays I own. What has been your experience with the Epson's 4k enhancement/ upscaling of blu-rays?


It’s only 1080P but Lucy is probably one of the best quality blu rays out there. The advantage of 4K enhancement is it allows you to use a higher level of image enhancement than you could use without 4K enhancement on, I can honestly say I always use 4K enhancement with all my 1080P collection.


----------



## amdar

My screen size is 110" diagonal and my seat is 11'. The distance was perfect for the game but i feel i need bigger screen for movies. 



Magnus_CA said:


> Anyone think 10' is too close for a 107" diagonal screen? I know I'm closer than the distance calculators would like.


----------



## jch2

Magnus_CA said:


> Anyone think 10' is too close for a 107" diagonal screen? I know I'm closer than the distance calculators would like.


You didn't mention the aspect ratio, so I'll assume it is a 107" 16:9 screen.

My MLP is 12' from a 120" 16:9 screen, and I watch a mix of 1080p and 4k content in various aspect ratios. While I very much enjoy the size, I think it's not quite close enough / big enough. I think 12' from a 144" 16:9 screen would be about perfect to replicate the feel of a center seat at a big theater, especially for 2.35:1 content. So, in your case 10' from a 107" screen is slightly closer, but you may want to consider a 120" 16:9 screen for a 10' viewing distance.


----------



## noob00224

amdar said:


> My screen size is 110" diagonal and my seat is 11'. The distance was perfect for the game but i feel i need bigger screen for movies.


Have you looked into CIH / Constant Image Height?

21m44s:


----------



## Magnus_CA

jch2 said:


> You didn't mention the aspect ratio, so I'll assume it is a 107" 16:9 screen.
> 
> My MLP is 12' from a 120" 16:9 screen, and I watch a mix of 1080p and 4k content in various aspect ratios. While I very much enjoy the size, I think it's not quite close enough / big enough. I think 12' from a 144" 16:9 screen would be about perfect to replicate the feel of a center seat at a big theater, especially for 2.35:1 content. So, in your case 10' from a 107" screen is slightly closer, but you may want to consider a 120" 16:9 screen for a 10' viewing distance.


Yep, it's 16:9. I saw I was inside thx and smpte recommendations so I wondered if I had gone too large. Pretty much everyone has left comments to the contrary, which is reassuring. Thanks!


----------



## rekbones

aeneas01 said:


> i was afraid of that... it's easy enough to do, change my pc's output, but then i would have to manually change it again when i wanted to play a 4k hdr rip it seems...


If you use a player like Kodi with the proper setting it should output the native resolution/frame rate of the source.


----------



## rajdori

Hi friends, I have a refurb 5040, loving it so far. But not used 3D as yet. I did some research, and now need to decide 3D active glasses between Sintron ST-07 and Samsung SSG-5100GB. 

Are Sintron ST-07 better (significantly better) than Samsung ones? Please advise...

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

noob00224 said:


> Have you looked into CIH / Constant Image Height?
> 
> 21m44s:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSfMV0Fww8s&t=21m44s


Great info but zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz


----------



## mraub

*Harmony Remote Programming Question*

Right now I have the Lens 1 and Lens 2 buttons on a Harmony remote programmed to change aspect ratios between 1.85 and 2.35. Now that the streaming services have started using a 2:1 aspect ratio for a lot of their new content I'd like to have a 2:1 button on the Harmony as well. Since I have already used my 2 hard button clones for the other two aspect ratios I'm not sure how to do this. Any suggestions?

Thanks.


----------



## fredworld

mraub said:


> Right now I have the Lens 1 and Lens 2 buttons on a Harmony remote programmed to change aspect ratios between 1.85 and 2.35. Now that the streaming services have started using a 2:1 aspect ratio for a lot of their new content I'd like to have a 2:1 button on the Harmony as well. Since I have already used my 2 hard button clones for the other two aspect ratios I'm not sure how to do this. Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks.



Interesting. Don't know if this will work, but try "teaching" the Epson's Lens 1 or 2 button to a button on the Harmony's body. Then use that same body-button for your new setting. I'm thinking that maybe the original Lens 1 and Lens 2 will remain as is on the Harmony's screen but the new body button will accept a 3rd saved lens setting. Just grabbing at a straw here actually.


----------



## jch2

mraub said:


> Right now I have the Lens 1 and Lens 2 buttons on a Harmony remote programmed to change aspect ratios between 1.85 and 2.35. Now that the streaming services have started using a 2:1 aspect ratio for a lot of their new content I'd like to have a 2:1 button on the Harmony as well. Since I have already used my 2 hard button clones for the other two aspect ratios I'm not sure how to do this. Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks.


I use Lens 1 for 16:9 and Lens 2 for 2:1. I have a third lens position (Memory 3) for 2.35:1. I recall it by pressing the Memory button, arrow down to Load Lens Memory, and then arrow down to Memory 3. I am thinking of writing a macro for the activity. However, if there is indeed a discreet IR code for other lens memory positions I can use, I'd like to know. If there is, we can ask Harmony Support to add them to the database. I have looked at online IR databases and haven't found anything myself.

I know there is IP control (an API) that can select lens memories beyond 1 and 2. Someone else posted about it in this thread. So, if you have the ability to do that you can use an IR code to trigger the IP control.

I am also thinking of contacting Epson to see if there is an extended IR code set (beyond the remote buttons) and also just recording and analyzing the IR codes and trying to reverse engineer it to see if there are any undocumented discreet IR code available that work.


----------



## HTX^2steve

I have noticed with the 5050 the lens memory does not stay where I save it at least in the height part. I have to save it about an inch higher then save it and it recalls properly. Anyone else?


----------



## jch2

HTX^2steve said:


> I have noticed with the 5050 the lens memory does not stay where I save it. I have to save it about an inch higher then save it and it recalls properly. Anyone else?


Yes, I do the same, set the lens memory, save, load, fix, save over the same slot, load, repeat until I get consistent results.

It helps to adjust just using one direction, and don't overshoot and then go back a step or two. Sometimes I just press and hold the Lens button on the shift adjustment menu until it completely resets and then adjust using only down (not up), and only left (not right) or whatever two directions are needed.

It is a bit of a pain, but hopefully I only have to do it once for each aspect ratio.


----------



## gene4ht

HTX^2steve said:


> I have noticed with the 5050 the lens memory does not stay where I save it at least in the height part. I have to save it about an inch higher then save it and it recalls properly. Anyone else?





jch2 said:


> Yes, I do the same, set the lens memory, save, load, fix, save over the same slot, load, repeat until I get consistent results.
> 
> It helps to adjust just using one direction, and don't overshoot and then go back a step or two. Sometimes I just press and hold the Lens button on the shift adjustment menu until it completely resets and then adjust using only down (not up), and only left (not right) or whatever two directions are needed.
> 
> It is a bit of a pain, but hopefully I only have to do it once for each aspect ratio.


This is a known idiosyncrasy with the 5040/6040 lens memory function...and may also be applicable to the 5050/6050. Three years ago (2016), Epson’s engineers addressed and provided the following procedure for utilizing lens memory.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-591.html#post58347382


----------



## HTX^2steve

My goodness...it's like we are trying to fix the Hubble lens issue...Come on Epson NASA engineers...its lens memory...geez

And to boot...it is in Chinglish...ugh. I combined the pics into one pdf and included the pics here for those who need it. I am surprised I missed this issue with all the reviews and research I did before buying this projector.

Thanks for the post...I shall give it a try...but so far other than that, this projector is really nice.


----------



## schmidtwi

Magnus_CA said:


> Yep, it's 16:9. I saw I was inside thx and smpte recommendations so I wondered if I had gone too large. Pretty much everyone has left comments to the contrary, which is reassuring. Thanks!



I have a 155" x 74" screen (roughly 2.1:1) to maximize both 16:9 & 2.39:1. This gives me 150" 16:9 & 164" 2:39:1 image. I sit 11' from the screen which is perfect for my setup.

Edit: I will eventually make some masking to help with the perceived contrast, but I really don't notice the unmasked screen section. 

My new 5050 looks awesome on this huge screen!!!


----------



## mraub

I was hoping for a hidden Lens 3 IR code, but since that apparently isn't available, I may give the macro route a try when I have some spare time. Thanks.




jch2 said:


> I use Lens 1 for 16:9 and Lens 2 for 2:1. I have a third lens position (Memory 3) for 2.35:1. I recall it by pressing the Memory button, arrow down to Load Lens Memory, and then arrow down to Memory 3. I am thinking of writing a macro for the activity. However, if there is indeed a discreet IR code for other lens memory positions I can use, I'd like to know. If there is, we can ask Harmony Support to add them to the database. I have looked at online IR databases and haven't found anything myself.
> 
> I know there is IP control (an API) that can select lens memories beyond 1 and 2. Someone else posted about it in this thread. So, if you have the ability to do that you can use an IR code to trigger the IP control.
> 
> I am also thinking of contacting Epson to see if there is an extended IR code set (beyond the remote buttons) and also just recording and analyzing the IR codes and trying to reverse engineer it to see if there are any undocumented discreet IR code available that work.


----------



## ckronengold

Starting to feel like I'm just not meant to own an Epson 5050. Never had one issue with my 5030. 

I'd been trouble free for the last month, but tonight the Blue Flashing Status / Orange Flashing Lens lights popped on again.

Seemed like most of us that have gone through multiple units finally landed on one that was working properly (at least for the time being), but I'm staring at my 4th replacement, and I have fewer than 250 hours on the projector. 

I love the image, the brightness, the HDR performance, and the lens memory, but I'm really getting annoyed with this. Mostly because its getting expensive. I don't want to have to keep calling Chad to calibrate projectors that I end up sending back.


----------



## ShadowBoy

DavidinGA said:


> Personal preference, but I think that would be fine.
> 
> I'm less than 14ft from a 150" and I feel I could be closer still.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I also have a 150' 16:9 screen with an old Epson 2000. Do you find The 5040 has sufficient lumens for HDR at that size? I see you have a PC Madvr set-up. I've been wondering how a 170 scope screen with Epson 6040/9400 and Panasonic 820 would handle HDR. Could always go SD2020 I suppose too.


----------



## DavidinGA

ShadowBoy said:


> I also have a 150' 16:9 screen with an old Epson 2000. Do you find The 5040 has sufficient lumens for HDR at that size? I see you have a PC Madvr set-up. I've been wondering how a 170 scope screen with Epson 6040/9400 and Panasonic 820 would handle HDR. Could always go SD2020 I suppose too.



Without madVR I'm not sure you will be very happy with HDR with the 5040; it'll be pretty dim.

A 170" scope is about 8% larger area vs my 150" 16:9 too.

If you're not able to do an htpc w/madVR setup for HDR I've heard the 5050/6050 handles HDR much better than the 5040/6040; perhaps that might be a good option...?


----------



## socwrkr

*new 5050ub owner and having issues*

Hi,
Hoping you guys might be able to help. I finally hooked up my 5050 last night and had everything working okay but was disappointed with some of the out of the box settings. Today I changed some of the calibration settings according to what was posted towards the beginning of this threat (the dreaming cinema settings). Well now it seems no matter what I do, i can not get my apple tv 4k to pass HDR or change to 4:4:4. Any suggestions or perhaps i'm missing something simple?

Lastly, one separate question: Under "Image Enhancement" 4K enhancement is always grayed out.. is that typical or should I be able to make changes there?

Thank you for any and all help you are able to offer

btw: equipment is: Yamaha Rx2085, Ruipro 10 meter high speed hdmi cable.


----------



## jeahrens

ShadowBoy said:


> I also have a 150' 16:9 screen with an old Epson 2000. Do you find The 5040 has sufficient lumens for HDR at that size? I see you have a PC Madvr set-up. I've been wondering how a 170 scope screen with Epson 6040/9400 and Panasonic 820 would handle HDR. Could always go SD2020 I suppose too.


Keep in mind image size is the product of the physical image area *and the distance you sit from it.*

So for example DavidinGA is 14' (168") from a 74" tall screen. That gives him a seating distance to screen height ratio of 2.27.

In my case I'm roughly 9.5' (114") from a 130" 2.35:1 screen which is 51" tall. That gives me a ratio of 2.24.

So in essence when viewing a 1.78:1 program, our viewing experiences will be essentially identical. However when viewing 2.35:1 content the picture area in my theater is going to be 75% larger due to the wide AR of the screen.

So if your seating isn't fixed it's very possible to get the light output and screen AR you desire without resorting to such a large screen area.


----------



## Luminated67

socwrkr said:


> Hi,
> Hoping you guys might be able to help. I finally hooked up my 5050 last night and had everything working okay but was disappointed with some of the out of the box settings. Today I changed some of the calibration settings according to what was posted towards the beginning of this threat (the dreaming cinema settings). Well now it seems no matter what I do, i can not get my apple tv 4k to pass HDR or change to 4:4:4. Any suggestions or perhaps i'm missing something simple?
> 
> Lastly, one separate question: Under "Image Enhancement" 4K enhancement is always grayed out.. is that typical or should I be able to make changes there?
> 
> Thank you for any and all help you are able to offer
> 
> btw: equipment is: Yamaha Rx2085, Ruipro 10 meter high speed hdmi cable.


Unfamiliar with your HDMI, is it an Optical/Fibre cable because if it not then this is most likely your problem.


----------



## socwrkr

Luminated67 said:


> Unfamiliar with your HDMI, is it an Optical/Fibre cable because if it not then this is most likely your problem.


It is an optical/fibre cable.. recommended a lot on these forums. The 5' hdmi cable from the apple tv is a new hdmi cable that has been rated for 18gps and shouldn't be the issue either.


----------



## Luminated67

socwrkr said:


> It is an optical/fibre cable.. recommended a lot on these forums. The 5' hdmi cable from the apple tv is a new hdmi cable that has been rated for 18gps and shouldn't be the issue either.


Ok, just didn’t know the brand. Unfortunately I don’t have an Apple TV unit so can’t advise what to do next.


----------



## ShadowBoy

DavidinGA said:


> Without madVR I'm not sure you will be very happy with HDR with the 5040; it'll be pretty dim.
> 
> A 170" scope is about 8% larger area vs my 150" 16:9 too.
> 
> If you're not able to do an htpc w/madVR setup for HDR I've heard the 5050/6050 handles HDR much better than the 5040/6040; perhaps that might be a good option...?


Sorry. I typed incorrectly. It IS the 6050 that I just bought, but haven't set up as I'm renovating the cinema. I will probably go with a 160-165inch scope screen or the 2:1 ratio compromise and keep the seats closer. I'm replacing the connected seating with four single recliners. That way if someone feels it's too close they can push their chair back.


----------



## skylarlove1999

socwrkr said:


> Hi,
> 
> Hoping you guys might be able to help. I finally hooked up my 5050 last night and had everything working okay but was disappointed with some of the out of the box settings. Today I changed some of the calibration settings according to what was posted towards the beginning of this threat (the dreaming cinema settings). Well now it seems no matter what I do, i can not get my apple tv 4k to pass HDR or change to 4:4:4. Any suggestions or perhaps i'm missing something simple?
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, one separate question: Under "Image Enhancement" 4K enhancement is always grayed out.. is that typical or should I be able to make changes there?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for any and all help you are able to offer
> 
> 
> 
> btw: equipment is: Yamaha Rx2085, Ruipro 10 meter high speed hdmi cable.


EDID needs to be set to Enhanced or Expanded not normal for you to get apple tv to recognize the 4K/60FPS HDR capabilities of the 5050. I forget what Epson names it. Alaric uses normal because his set up has some HDMI handshake delay issues. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ShadowBoy

jeahrens said:


> Keep in mind image size is the product of the physical image area *and the distance you sit from it.*
> 
> So for example DavidinGA is 14' (168") from a 74" tall screen. That gives him a seating distance to screen height ratio of 2.27.
> 
> In my case I'm roughly 9.5' (114") from a 130" 2.35:1 screen which is 51" tall. That gives me a ratio of 2.24.
> 
> So in essence when viewing a 1.78:1 program, our viewing experiences will be essentially identical. However when viewing 2.35:1 content the picture area in my theater is going to be 75% larger due to the wide AR of the screen.
> 
> So if your seating isn't fixed it's very possible to get the light output and screen AR you desire without resorting to such a large screen area.


The reason I was considering that large a screen was because I liked the height for 16:9 and 4:3 ratio movies and wanted to keep it, but with wider 2:40:1 scope movies. I think it could work sitting closer with a smaller screen with the increased resolution of the 6050 though. Will have to try it on the wall before deciding.


----------



## jch2

Luminated67 said:


> socwrkr said:
> 
> 
> 
> It is an optical/fibre cable.. recommended a lot on these forums. The 5' hdmi cable from the apple tv is a new hdmi cable that has been rated for 18gps and shouldn't be the issue either.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, just didnâ€™️t know the brand. Unfortunately I donâ€™️t have an Apple TV unit so canâ€™️t advise what to do next.
Click to expand...

I've got an ATV4k and FTV4k connected to a Yamaha RX-A3070 AVR and then to an LG C8 TV on HDMI Out 1 and Epson 5050UB on HDMI Out 2. I use an Amazon Basics 3' HDMI cable from the ATV4k to AVR, an Amazon Basics 12' HDMI cable from AVR to the LG TV, and a Blue Jeans Cable Series-3A 40' active copper cable from the AVR to the Epson. I get all the high bandwidth 4k HDR modes to work on both sources and both displays (4k24 12-bit 4:4:4 HDR and 4k60 10-bit 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 and 4k60 12-bit 4:2:0). NOTE: 4k60 12-bit 4:2:2 and 4k60 12-bit 4:4:4 require more than 18.2gbps bandwidth and are out of spec for HDMI 2.0b.

If it only happened after you changed settings on your Epson, then make sure your Epson Signal->Advanced->EDID setting is set to Expanded or you will be limited to 9gbps modes and lower. If that doesn't work maybe reset your Epson to factory defaults and see if that fixes the problem.

Your HDMI cable could have gone bad. Make sure you are using a good one. Maybe test it with another 4k HDR display if you can.

-J.C.


----------



## skylarlove1999

socwrkr said:


> Hi,
> 
> Hoping you guys might be able to help. I finally hooked up my 5050 last night and had everything working okay but was disappointed with some of the out of the box settings. Today I changed some of the calibration settings according to what was posted towards the beginning of this threat (the dreaming cinema settings). Well now it seems no matter what I do, i can not get my apple tv 4k to pass HDR or change to 4:4:4. Any suggestions or perhaps i'm missing something simple?
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, one separate question: Under "Image Enhancement" 4K enhancement is always grayed out.. is that typical or should I be able to make changes there?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for any and all help you are able to offer
> 
> 
> 
> btw: equipment is: Yamaha Rx2085, Ruipro 10 meter high speed hdmi cable.


 Under "Image Enhancement" 4K enhancement is always grayed out when the projector receives a 4k signal . In order for that to not be grayed out you need to send a 1080 signal to the projector. Your ATV4K probably is probably set to upscale all content to 4K . Your reciever is also probably set to upscale all content to 4K. You would need to set both of those upscalers to off in order to send a 1080 signal to the projector. Then you would see a 1920 x 1080 under the projector resolution info screen. Then the 4K Enhancement would no longer be grayed out and you could decide whether you want the projector to upscale the content to 4K. Image Processing also needs to set to Fine to allow for the projector to do the upscaling. Personally I let my source devices do the upscaling when 1080 content is broadcast. Some people prefer the upscaling of the projector.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

ShadowBoy said:


> Sorry. I typed incorrectly. It IS the 6050 that I just bought, but haven't set up as I'm renovating the cinema. I will probably go with a 160-165inch scope screen or the 2:1 ratio compromise and keep the seats closer. I'm replacing the connected seating with four single recliners. That way if someone feels it's too close they can push their chair back.


Good, from what I've heard you'll be much happier with HDR on the 6050 than what the older gen had to offer.


----------



## socwrkr

Thanks all for the suggestions! I will check the edid when I get home. I switched out cables and know the issue isnt that. Are there different calibration settings (even basic) that you all would recommend?


----------



## biglen

socwrkr said:


> Thanks all for the suggestions! I will check the edid when I get home. I switched out cables and know the issue isnt that. Are there different calibration settings (even basic) that you all would recommend?


Every projector is different, along with the room the projector is in. The odds of someone else's settings working well for you, are slim and none. I just got my projector professionally calibrated, and it's the best $550 I've spent. I highly recommend getting it done, to get the most out of your projector. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## socwrkr

Changing the EDID worked! Thank you guys. I understand that calibration is going to change from projector to projector. I'm more looking for what basic settings should be set at this point..
Dynamic Iris? Which color mode (natural?)? Lamp on high, medium, or eco? This is being used in a basement with dark walls and I can control light that comes in. I'm just not sure where to start with the settings. 
Thanks again


----------



## ckronengold

Just weighing in as a follow-up to my previous post. The news is not good. 

After speaking with technical support, then a technical support supervisor and then being transferred to the corporate office, I was hung up on by "Sal" because I was not happy with their solutions to my problem. 

I explained to "Sal" that replacing my unit with another one (maybe refurb, maybe new, couldn't tell me) isn't solving my problem. Every time they send a new unit instead of trying to solve whatever technical problem exists, it costs me at least $500 to have the unit calibrated. 

Here's what was shocking. "Sal" had no idea why the projector needed to be calibrated. And he refused to believe that professional calibration would cost $500 or more. 

I tried to explain to him that even at the 6050 launch event, they had Kevin Miller calibrate the demo units, and that he charges even more than $500 to calibrate a unit with both widescreen and 16:9 memory.

After a few more minutes of pointless back and forth of me asking if they'd be sending $500 with the replacement, or if I needed to pay $1500 just for the privilege of owning a 5050, he hung up on me. 

I've been patient. I've been appreciative. I think, in general, that offering to send a replacement is a fine option. But not understanding or refusing to believe that these units need to be calibrated is absurd. Even when faced with the fact that they have their own units calibrated. 

For the additional $1500 that it will cost to have yet another projector calibrated, I could have bought a 6050, or explored a JVC with native 4k. 

There's too many of us on this board who have had to go through multiple units for me to accept that everything is OK with their quality control or manufacturing. And the fact that they would rather replace units than offer technical support tells me that they know it too. 

I may have bought my last Epson, and I'm certainly going to tell them that they can no longer use the video interview I gave at the Epson launch event as marketing material.


----------



## amdar

Thanks for the information. 


noob00224 said:


> Have you looked into CIH / Constant Image Height?
> 
> 21m44s:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSfMV0Fww8s&t=21m44s


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Just weighing in as a follow-up to my previous post. The news is not good.
> 
> 
> 
> After speaking with technical support, then a technical support supervisor and then being transferred to the corporate office, I was hung up on by "Sal" because I was not happy with their solutions to my problem.
> 
> 
> 
> I explained to "Sal" that replacing my unit with another one (maybe refurb, maybe new, couldn't tell me) isn't solving my problem. Every time they send a new unit instead of trying to solve whatever technical problem exists, it costs me at least $500 to have the unit calibrated.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's what was shocking. "Sal" had no idea why the projector needed to be calibrated. And he refused to believe that professional calibration would cost $500 or more.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to explain to him that even at the 6050 launch event, they had Kevin Miller calibrate the demo units, and that he charges even more than $500 to calibrate a unit with both widescreen and 16:9 memory.
> 
> 
> 
> After a few more minutes of pointless back and forth of me asking if they'd be sending $500 with the replacement, or if I needed to pay $1500 just for the privilege of owning a 5050, he hung up on me.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been patient. I've been appreciative. I think, in general, that offering to send a replacement is a fine option. But not understanding or refusing to believe that these units need to be calibrated is absurd. Even when faced with the fact that they have their own units calibrated.
> 
> 
> 
> For the additional $1500 that it will cost to have yet another projector calibrated, I could have bought a 6050, or explored a JVC with native 4k.
> 
> 
> 
> There's too many of us on this board who have had to go through multiple units for me to accept that everything is OK with their quality control or manufacturing. And the fact that they would rather replace units than offer technical support tells me that they know it too.
> 
> 
> 
> I may have bought my last Epson, and I'm certainly going to tell them that they can no longer use the video interview I gave at the Epson launch event as marketing material.


Sorry for all your troubles. That is really crappy

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## momofx

Wow...what sort of problem are you having? 4th replacement on a 5050?? 




ckronengold said:


> Just weighing in as a follow-up to my previous post. The news is not good.
> 
> After speaking with technical support, then a technical support supervisor and then being transferred to the corporate office, I was hung up on by "Sal" because I was not happy with their solutions to my problem.
> 
> I explained to "Sal" that replacing my unit with another one (maybe refurb, maybe new, couldn't tell me) isn't solving my problem. Every time they send a new unit instead of trying to solve whatever technical problem exists, it costs me at least $500 to have the unit calibrated.
> 
> Here's what was shocking. "Sal" had no idea why the projector needed to be calibrated. And he refused to believe that professional calibration would cost $500 or more.
> 
> I tried to explain to him that even at the 6050 launch event, they had Kevin Miller calibrate the demo units, and that he charges even more than $500 to calibrate a unit with both widescreen and 16:9 memory.
> 
> After a few more minutes of pointless back and forth of me asking if they'd be sending $500 with the replacement, or if I needed to pay $1500 just for the privilege of owning a 5050, he hung up on me.
> 
> I've been patient. I've been appreciative. I think, in general, that offering to send a replacement is a fine option. But not understanding or refusing to believe that these units need to be calibrated is absurd. Even when faced with the fact that they have their own units calibrated.
> 
> For the additional $1500 that it will cost to have yet another projector calibrated, I could have bought a 6050, or explored a JVC with native 4k.
> 
> There's too many of us on this board who have had to go through multiple units for me to accept that everything is OK with their quality control or manufacturing. And the fact that they would rather replace units than offer technical support tells me that they know it too.
> 
> I may have bought my last Epson, and I'm certainly going to tell them that they can no longer use the video interview I gave at the Epson launch event as marketing material.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Under "Image Enhancement" 4K enhancement is always grayed out when the projector receives a 4k signal . In order for that to not be grayed out you need to send a 1080 signal to the projector. Your ATV4K probably is probably set to upscale all content to 4K . Your reciever is also probably set to upscale all content to 4K. You would need to set both of those upscalers to off in order to send a 1080 signal to the projector. Then you would see a 1920 x 1080 under the projector resolution info screen. Then the 4K Enhancement would no longer be grayed out and you could decide whether you want the projector to upscale the content to 4K. Image Processing also needs to set to Fine to allow for the projector to do the upscaling. Personally I let my source devices do the upscaling when 1080 content is broadcast. Some people prefer the upscaling of the projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Basically when it's grayed out means it's already receiving a 4K signal so you don't have an option to reduce this to non 4K (logically enough), for that to happen you would need to be feeding it a 1080P signal.

I must admit I didn't read the original OP's question properly and just grabbed on to the HDMI part of his post, yes the EDID needs to be set to Expanded to receive the full beans.


----------



## DRaven72

momofx said:


> Wow...what sort of problem are you having? 4th replacement on a 5050??


I went through 3 Epson 4000 projectors. The original had a weird outline that was projected onto the screen and scratched lens off of store shelf. Epson replaced it with a refurb that had an unbalanced motorized lens that would just "shift" out of no where. 3rd one is also refurb with a scratched lens and best described color uniformity issues. At this point I have given up on Epson. If you are a Epson fan, buy the extended warranty through a retail store for exchange IN STORE. You will not get a new one like BenQ did for me when I sent my 3050 in. 

JVC NX7 will be next once settlement money comes in. 

Not to railroad this thread, but if you are even considering the 6050 at its price point, you are in the Native 4k JVC NX5 territory through certain online/dealers here.


----------



## Hawkmarket

DRaven72 said:


> I went through 3 Epson 4000 projectors. The original had a weird outline that was projected onto the screen and scratched lens off of store shelf. Epson replaced it with a refurb that had an unbalanced motorized lens that would just "shift" out of no where. 3rd one is also refurb with a scratched lens and best described color uniformity issues. At this point I have given up on Epson. If you are a Epson fan, buy the extended warranty through a retail store for exchange IN STORE. You will not get a new one like BenQ did for me when I sent my 3050 in.
> 
> JVC NX7 will be next once settlement money comes in.
> 
> Not to railroad this thread, but if you are even considering the 6050 at its price point, you are in the Native 4k JVC NX5 territory through certain online/dealers here.


That and the NX7 would be on my radar but with a 150" screen the lumen hit is real coming from a 6050. I don't think I would buy a JVC with larger than a 135" screen unless I only watched in bat cave environments. I watch about 50% sports with lights on and 50% movies so I need all the light I can get from the projector.


----------



## ckronengold

momofx said:


> Wow...what sort of problem are you having? 4th replacement on a 5050??


The first 5050 was shipped / packaged so poorly that the store (Stuart's Audio, Westfield, NJ) wouldn't even give it to me. They had to place a new order. So my ownership of a 5050 seems to have been doomed from the get-go. 

That second unit had problems with the HDMI inputs, where HDMI 1 and HDMI 2 were not receiving or displaying the same signal, despite using the HDMI cable and same sources. After a week of back and forth Epson simply stopped replying to me. I sent emails to tech support every three days trying to get a response, but got nothing. That forced me to escalate the issue, where I was finally able to get an RMA issued. 

Unfortunately that unit (now the 3rd) came with a scratched and spotted lens, which the rep agreed was not acceptable. He issued a new RMA for a 4th unit, which I have had since June. 

In October, with 180 hours on the projector, that unit began to flash the Blue Status and Orange Lamp light, which the manual says is an "internal projector error" and to contact Epson. They opened a ticket to note the problem, and told me to unplug it and re-open the ticket if it happened again. Which, of course, it did this weekend, with under 224 hours on the projector. 

So here I am, looking at a 5th potential unit. 

The real rub for me - other than getting hung up on - is paying to have these units calibrated, and then having some know-nothing, no-saying corporate stooge essentially tell me that I'm wrong and that these units don't need to be calibrated. 

This whole thing is ridiculous, and I'm inclined to think that their approach to this mess tells me that they know they have a problem.


----------



## ckronengold

Hawkmarket said:


> That and the NX7 would be on my radar but with a 150" screen the lumen hit is real coming from a 6050. I don't think I would buy a JVC with larger than a 135" screen unless I only watched in bat cave environments. I watch about 50% sports with lights on and 50% movies so I need all the light I can get from the projector.


I'm in a similar boat. I currently have a 110" 16:9 screen, but intended to step up to 125" or 135" 2.35:1, but I've had to deal with this projector issue. I'm probably 75% movies, 25% sports, but still want to be able to see the sports when they the lights are on. I use Dynamic Mode already, so I'd be concerned about wash-out. But I'll worry about that later. 



DRaven72 said:


> I went through 3 Epson 4000 projectors. Epson replaced it with a refurb that had an unbalanced motorized lens that would just "shift" out of no where. 3rd one is also refurb with a scratched lens and best described color uniformity issues. At this point I have given up on Epson.
> 
> JVC NX7 will be next once settlement money comes in.
> 
> Not to railroad this thread, but if you are even considering the 6050 at its price point, you are in the Native 4k JVC NX5 territory through certain online/dealers here.


With ya 100%. Definitely could have paid for a NX5 with the same money, but think I'd lean towards the NX7, spec wise. Will have to wait and see. 

Hopefully someone who gives a $h!t will get back to me this week rather than dealing with people who are paid to say "take it or leave it, I don't care."


----------



## Luminated67

I must admit that back at the release of the TW9400 in the UK those of us who got them at the start some had the dreaded flashing blue light with shut down myself included but after a month or two these issues stopped and if you check on AVForum you’ll see none of these problems anymore. Funny enough I was outside of the 30 days replacement policy so mine was repaired under warranty and in fact the complete fix took only 3-4 days including collection and return.

Over on AVForum I seldom hear or dust blobs or any other issues so is this more an issue with Epson US?


----------



## jeahrens

ShadowBoy said:


> The reason I was considering that large a screen was because I liked the height for 16:9 and 4:3 ratio movies and wanted to keep it, but with wider 2:40:1 scope movies. I think it could work sitting closer with a smaller screen with the increased resolution of the 6050 though. Will have to try it on the wall before deciding.


Yes, we don't want 1.33:1 and 1.78:1 to be perceived smaller. The goal should be not to take a hit with narrower material and only increase the immersion of wider material. I don't know what your current seating distance is from your current screen, but once you've determined the seating distance/screen height ratio you can plug it in for a smaller height scope screen to keep the narrower material the same perceived size.

But you may not have to go too small. One of the reasons I'm a fan of the Epson's, besides the outstanding picture for the price, is their ability to light up rather large screens. When I was on the Kansas City crawl, one of the theaters owned by user Carp, was using a 5040 and a very large scope screen. I'm sure he'd be happy to share his experiences if you sent him a PM.


----------



## BIC2

The Epson web site has two 6050 User Guides. Why is this? Does it matter which one is used? Thanks.

1. Pro Cinema 4050/6050UB User's Guide - 176 pages

2. User's Guide - 9400, 8400, 6050, 5050 - 55 pages


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## BIC2

From what I recall here in the past, I want to disable the HDR slider on the Epson 6050 and enable it on the Panasonic DP-UB820. Looked through the Epson guide and not sure which menu function for this. Dynamic Range sounds appropriate, but guide says that's for 4050 only.

Also, presume if watching Amazon Prime UHD with stick in Yamaha processor, need to enable setting again on Epson. Thanks.


----------



## prophcy0

*Fan noise too loud?*

So I ended up getting a 5050UB just before Thanksgiving. It has replaced a Sony HW40ES. I did a direct comparison between the two and I was kind of hoping NOT to notice a discernible difference so I could return the Epson and save myself several grand. Fortunately/unfortunately, the Epson is a CLEAR upgrade over the older Sony. The fauxK makes a distinct difference in sharpness and detail, but the true upgrade is in the color. The increased color palette is immediately noticeable and HDR looks amazing. The Epson is a damn light cannon!

However, one negative I have is the noise of the Epson. Even in Mid-power mode the fan is clearly audible during quiet scenes in movies. Even my wife commented on it, and she never notices that kind of stuff. The HW40ES couldn't be heard at all, even in high-lamp mode, so this has been hugely disappointing. Is this level of noise normal, or is there a chance I have a defective unit? Not only do I hear a "whoosh", but there is also an audible hum that happens on a regular cadence (every second or so).

Also, I took *jaredmwright*'s suggestion and built a hanging box wrapped w/ speaker cloth to hide the projector. It turned out pretty well (see attached pics).


----------



## DavidinGA

prophcy0 said:


> So I ended up getting a 5050UB just before Thanksgiving. It has replaced a Sony HW40ES. I did a direct comparison between the two and I was kind of hoping NOT to notice a discernible difference so I could return the Epson and save myself several grand. Fortunately/unfortunately, the Epson is a CLEAR upgrade over the older Sony. The fauxK makes a distinct difference in sharpness and detail, but the true upgrade is in the color. The increased color palette is immediately noticeable and HDR looks amazing. The Epson is a damn light cannon!
> 
> 
> 
> However, one negative I have is the noise of the Epson. Even in Mid-power mode the fan is clearly audible during quiet scenes in movies. Even my wife commented on it, and she never notices that kind of stuff. The HW40ES couldn't be heard at all, even in high-lamp mode, so this has been hugely disappointing. Is this level of noise normal, or is there a chance I have a defective unit? Not only do I hear a "whoosh", but there is also an audible hum that happens on a regular cadence (every second or so).
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I took *jaredmwright*'s suggestion and built a hanging box wrapped w/ speaker cloth to hide the projector. It turned out pretty well (see attached pics).


Turn that box into a hush-box maybe...? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

DavidinGA said:


> Turn that box into a hush-box maybe...?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Great job on the box you built, looks even better than a projector hanging, very clean.

Have you tried to calibrate your projector on ECO? You may be able to get it close enough which should reduce the noise. I posted DB readings from my 6050ub. 

Consider getting some foam isolation that is used in packing/sound isolation and lining the three sides with it to see the difference. See attachment for what I mean.

I have a light controlled room and always find ECO more than bright enough and barely audible. I only barely hear the Iris when in use.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

ckronengold said:


> The first 5050 was shipped / packaged so poorly that the store (Stuart's Audio, Westfield, NJ) wouldn't even give it to me. They had to place a new order. So my ownership of a 5050 seems to have been doomed from the get-go.



I am curious why you feel the 5050UB needs a professional calibration. Mine looks amazing without it, so I'm not sure what real improvement a calibration would bring.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jaredmwright said:


> Great job on the box you built, looks even better than a projector hanging, very clean.
> 
> Have you tried to calibrate your projector on ECO? You may be able to get it close enough which should reduce the noise. I posted DB readings from my 6050ub.
> 
> Consider getting some foam isolation that is used in packing/sound isolation and lining the three sides with it to see the difference. See attachment for what I mean.
> 
> I have a light controlled room and always find ECO more than bright enough and barely audible. I only barely hear the Iris when in use.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Not a great idea to wrap foam around any type of heat producing electronic item. I understand the the venting for the projector is in the front. You are reducing the noise. You are also raising the internal temperature of the projector. This will cause the cooling mechanism to work harder than intended. This will cause premature wear and early mechanical failure. Hush boxes need to be well thought out and properly designed to reduce heat not increase it. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

groggrog said:


> I am curious why you feel the 5050UB needs a professional calibration. Mine looks amazing without it, so I'm not sure what real improvement a calibration would bring.


Some people would not notice the improvements a professional calibration brings. Those individuals are very smart to not waste their money. Many people prefer the inaccurate colors and blown our images from an overly bright display. That is how televisions in stores look. Overly saturated , overly bright and what appears to be higher contrast due to the those factors. A calibrated image is color accurate, brings out specular highlights and shadow details, among other things. There is no right or wrong. Everyone enjoys images differently. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

skylarlove1999 said:


> Not a great idea to wrap foam around any type of heat producing electronic item. I understand the the venting for the projector is in the front. You are reducing the noise. You are also raising the internal temperature of the projector. This will cause the cooling mechanism to work harder than intended. This will cause premature wear and early mechanical failure. Hush boxes need to be well thought out and properly designed to reduce heat not increase it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Totally agree and good point, I would put a temperature sensor up and take readings before and during modifications to ensure it doesn't cause hot spots and do some tests with and without. 

You could add silent low rpm fans and address the heat issues. You may not need any sound isolation on top depending on seating and where the sound is coming from to reduce heat.

Lots of things contribute to heat, how close to the ceiling, total air volume, etc... Looks like you have room to adjust and increase size if necessary to add ventilation.

Good luck and report back.



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## ricwhite

Is it better to have the Denon AVR-X2600H receiver upscale 1080 content to 4k or to have the Epson 5050 projector do the upscaling to 4k? How good is the Epson upscaling?


----------



## ckronengold

prophcy0 said:


> However, one negative I have is the noise of the Epson. Even in Mid-power mode the fan is clearly audible during quiet scenes in movies. Even my wife commented on it, and she never notices that kind of stuff....Is this level of noise normal, or is there a chance I have a defective unit? Not only do I hear a "whoosh", but there is also an audible hum that happens on a regular cadence (every second or so).
> 
> Also, I took *jaredmwright*'s suggestion and built a hanging box wrapped w/ speaker cloth to hide the projector. It turned out pretty well (see attached pics).


My 5050 was particularly loud as well. I sit 4' in front of the projector and always hear it during quieter scenes. 

AMAZING job on the box. I love your whole room.


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## ckronengold

groggrog said:


> I am curious why you feel the 5050UB needs a professional calibration. Mine looks amazing without it, so I'm not sure what real improvement a calibration would bring.


Like most things, there's a law of diminishing return for sure. And calibrating the projector is definitely more about refining the image than fixing a problem. 

Did I love the picture the first time I fired up the 5050? Oh, HELL YES! I was blown away. So "need" may not be the right word here. 

That said, is there room for improvement? Yup. No doubt. Epson even had their 6050 calibrated for the NYC launch event and kept the calibrator on hand for the evening. 

Towards the end of my calibration, I sat with Chad (hdtvbychadb.com) as he was putting the finishing touches on and asked him to show me what he was tweaking. 

We had on The Greatest Showman and it was an outside, dark scene where people were carrying torches. Chad was trying to nail down the skin tones. He was going back and forth on a single adjustment in the 8-point greyscale settings. Never in a million years would I have thought that I could see the difference if the Grey Scale Level 5 Green was a -2 or a -3. But when Chad showed me what to look for during the changes, it suddenly became very easy to see the differences.

Some other projector review site shared three calibrations for HDR "best", HDR "bright" and SDR. Its worth just looking at the data and seeing the differences between them. (projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-home-cinema-5050ub-4k-capable-home-theater-projector-review-calibration-settings)

For a look at some of the data, take a look at the attached graphs. These are some of the pre/post calibration reports. In graph form, it looks like a pretty dramatic difference. Whether or not someone can see the differences, or think they are significant, or think its worth the extra money are personal choices. 

When I think about the amount of money I've invested in my movie watching experience, an extra $500 to squeeze out additional performance from the projector seemed like an easy decision to make. I think of it the same way as treating a room for 2nd and 3rd level reflections, or painting the ceiling a dark color to improve the contrast on the screen. 

Just my $.03. Curious what you think of the graphs, @groggrog.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Some people would not notice the improvements a professional calibration brings. Those individuals are very smart to not waste their money. Many people prefer the inaccurate colors and blown our images from an overly bright display. That is how televisions in stores look. Overly saturated , overly bright and what appears to be higher contrast due to the those factors. A calibrated image is color accurate, brings out specular highlights and shadow details, among other things. There is no right or wrong. Everyone enjoys images differently.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That is so true, my brother-in-law watches his TV in dynamic mode that frankly cut the eyes out of my within about 10-15 mins and every time I’m round when he goes into the kitchen to make a cuppa I quickly switch the setting to natural but every time I return to see them it back to dynamic. 

For him a calibration would be the biggest waste of money.

In fact he listens to music in much the same way with bass and treble both turned up to the max.


----------



## groggrog

ckronengold said:


> Like most things, there's a law of diminishing return for sure. And calibrating the projector is definitely more about refining the image than fixing a problem.
> 
> Did I love the picture the first time I fired up the 5050? Oh, HELL YES! I was blown away. So "need" may not be the right word here.
> 
> That said, is there room for improvement? Yup. No doubt. Epson even had their 6050 calibrated for the NYC launch event and kept the calibrator on hand for the evening.
> 
> Towards the end of my calibration, I sat with Chad (hdtvbychadb.com) as he was putting the finishing touches on and asked him to show me what he was tweaking.
> 
> We had on The Greatest Showman and it was an outside, dark scene where people were carrying torches. Chad was trying to nail down the skin tones. He was going back and forth on a single adjustment in the 8-point greyscale settings. Never in a million years would I have thought that I could see the difference if the Grey Scale Level 5 Green was a -2 or a -3. But when Chad showed me what to look for during the changes, it suddenly became very easy to see the differences.
> 
> Some other projector review site shared three calibrations for HDR "best", HDR "bright" and SDR. Its worth just looking at the data and seeing the differences between them. (projectorreviews.com/epson/epson-home-cinema-5050ub-4k-capable-home-theater-projector-review-calibration-settings)
> 
> For a look at some of the data, take a look at the attached graphs. These are some of the pre/post calibration reports. In graph form, it looks like a pretty dramatic difference. Whether or not someone can see the differences, or think they are significant, or think its worth the extra money are personal choices.
> 
> When I think about the amount of money I've invested in my movie watching experience, an extra $500 to squeeze out additional performance from the projector seemed like an easy decision to make. I think of it the same way as treating a room for 2nd and 3rd level reflections, or painting the ceiling a dark color to improve the contrast on the screen.
> 
> Just my $.03. Curious what you think of the graphs, @*groggrog* .



Great explanation and thanks for sharing the info! Not sure if I'm the type that would notice much difference with calibration but it's worth a shot. I did reach out to Chad to see if he's making a New Jersey run sometime soon.


Thanks again!


----------



## 3fingerbrown

Guys, I am planning a theater with the 5050 or 6050 and I have 5 questions for you:

1. Will either Epson handle a 160” diagonal 2.39 screen? The primary use is for movies in a dark, light controlled dedicated theater. The screen I’m planning is the Screen Innovations in the Slate 1.2 gain fabric. This is an ALR fabric, which I had planned to utilize for sports watching with some ambient light, but the primary use is for movie watching in a dark room. I would say sports watching is maybe 5-10% of overall use. I could switch to their pure white fabric if that would really helped the brightness, and just accept some compromises when having some ambient light in the room for sports parties.

2. The projector calculators I’m looking at say I should have the throw distance at about 22 feet. Closer than that puts the projector into a wide angle setting. Does that look right? 

3. Would the 6050UB vs 5050 make any difference in image quality or brightness, given some of my challenges? I’ve read the 6050 has higher quality lenses, would this or anything else help my brightness challenges?

4. I’ve read about the noise on this projector and I’m planning on having to do a hush box since I’m assuming it will run at least in the medium brightness setting. Would running it in high full time be strenuous on the projector? Or does that just wear out the lamp sooner?

5. The 6050 comes with a mount. Is it a good one? How flush to the ceiling does it get? I was toying with the idea of mounting it to the ceiling and then building the hush box around it, but to make this work the mount has to get the projector pretty tight to the ceiling.


----------



## prophcy0

ckronengold said:


> My 5050 was particularly loud as well. I sit 4' in front of the projector and always hear it during quieter scenes.
> 
> AMAZING job on the box. I love your whole room.


Thanks! I agonized over the design of the room for quite a while and I'm very happy with the end result. 


Also, thanks to all of you who provided feedback regarding the noise of the 5050. I really don't want to do a hush box for various reasons. I was more curious if my unit is normal in terms of fan noise, or if there is any chance that I have a defective unit. If the fan noise is just something I need to get used to that's fine, but if it's abnormal I would like to have the projector replaced.

I don't think the placement makes any difference for my 5050. When I first set it up it was sitting on a table behind my theater room couch. The noise was just as audible then as it is now that it is mounted on the ceiling.


----------



## skylarlove1999

prophcy0 said:


> Thanks! I agonized over the design of the room for quite a while and I'm very happy with the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, thanks to all of you who provided feedback regarding the noise of the 5050. I really don't want to do a hush box for various reasons. I was more curious if my unit is normal in terms of fan noise, or if there is any chance that I have a defective unit. If the fan noise is just something I need to get used to that's fine, but if it's abnormal I would like to have the projector replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think the placement makes any difference for my 5050. When I first set it up it was sitting on a table behind my theater room couch. The noise was just as audible then as it is now that it is mounted on the ceiling.


Your fan noise sounds normal to me. During quiet scenes I can hear the projector in High and Medium fan mode. I use Eco for SDR and do not hear the fan nose then although SDR is mainly sports viewing. Not many quiet sports LOL , except golf.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

prophcy0 said:


> ckronengold said:
> 
> 
> 
> My 5050 was particularly loud as well. I sit 4' in front of the projector and always hear it during quieter scenes.
> 
> AMAZING job on the box. I love your whole room.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I agonized over the design of the room for quite a while and I'm very happy with the end result.
> 
> 
> Also, thanks to all of you who provided feedback regarding the noise of the 5050. I really don't want to do a hush box for various reasons. I was more curious if my unit is normal in terms of fan noise, or if there is any chance that I have a defective unit. If the fan noise is just something I need to get used to that's fine, but if it's abnormal I would like to have the projector replaced.
> 
> I don't think the placement makes any difference for my 5050. When I first set it up it was sitting on a table behind my theater room couch. The noise was just as audible then as it is now that it is mounted on the ceiling.
Click to expand...

This is a forum about audio and video, so why don't a few of us post a short video clip showing the volume/SPL level of the projector at a measurement distance of 6" from the front of the unit, in eco, medium, and high lamp modes? That way we can compare SPL levels, and also compare the actual sound of the units, to see if there is a general consensus on what it is supposed to sound like and how loud is typical. I have a UMIK-1 and REW, and I'll start working on that now. I'll post a reply with a YouTube link of my video soon.


----------



## prophcy0

jch2 said:


> This is a forum about audio and video, so why don't a few of us post a short video clip showing the volume/SPL level of the projector at a measurement distance of 6" from the front of the unit, in eco, medium, and high lamp modes? That way we can compare SPL levels, and also compare the actual sound of the units, to see if there is a general consensus on what it is supposed to sound like and how loud is typical. I have a UMIK-1 and REW, and I'll start working on that now. I'll post a reply with a YouTube link of my video soon.


I think this is a great idea. I tried recording a video w/ my phone last night but I wasn't thrilled with the audio quality. I'll see if I can get a better recording tonight. I also have a SPL meter somewhere that I can dig out.


----------



## ckronengold

jch2 said:


> This is a forum about audio and video, so why don't a few of us post a short video clip showing the volume/SPL level of the projector at a measurement distance of 6" from the front of the unit, in eco, medium, and high lamp modes? That way we can compare SPL levels, and also compare the actual sound of the units, to see if there is a general consensus on what it is supposed to sound like and how loud is typical. I have a UMIK-1 and REW, and I'll start working on that now. I'll post a reply with a YouTube link of my video soon.


That sounds like a lot of work. Can't we just ***** about things instead? ;-) 

Does anyone have a good (preferably free) app they can recommend (android and iOS)? I've tried a few, but had 5-10db differences between them, so not sure that it would represent any fair comparison or useful data.


----------



## WynsWrld98

prophcy0 said:


> So I ended up getting a 5050UB just before Thanksgiving. It has replaced a Sony HW40ES. I did a direct comparison between the two and I was kind of hoping NOT to notice a discernible difference so I could return the Epson and save myself several grand. Fortunately/unfortunately, the Epson is a CLEAR upgrade over the older Sony. The fauxK makes a distinct difference in sharpness and detail, but the true upgrade is in the color. The increased color palette is immediately noticeable and HDR looks amazing. The Epson is a damn light cannon!
> 
> However, one negative I have is the noise of the Epson. Even in Mid-power mode the fan is clearly audible during quiet scenes in movies. Even my wife commented on it, and she never notices that kind of stuff. The HW40ES couldn't be heard at all, even in high-lamp mode, so this has been hugely disappointing. Is this level of noise normal, or is there a chance I have a defective unit? Not only do I hear a "whoosh", but there is also an audible hum that happens on a regular cadence (every second or so).
> 
> Also, I took *jaredmwright*'s suggestion and built a hanging box wrapped w/ speaker cloth to hide the projector. It turned out pretty well (see attached pics).


A light cannon is going to generate a lot of heat and hence need more intense cooling fans. For those who say to calibrate in ECO be careful with that because as the lamp drops lumens in about 500 hours it's going to be particularly dim. I have a 120" screen and have it in high lamp mode which is really needed for HDR and 3D where you need all the brightness you can get with a projector! Running it in high lamp mode gets me a bit closer to a flat panel TV but nowhere near as bright. Some would say my setup is too bright but to me I hate dim images. Those placing the projector within 4' of listening position I'd ask if it isn't possible in their room to place it a bit further away, a light cannon fan is going to generate noise and placing it within 4' of listening position is asking for trouble...


----------



## jnation

prophcy0 said:


> I really don't want to do a hush box for various reasons.


Something that might be worth experimenting with to see if it makes a difference might be to temporarily add a baffle in front of your box with a portal for the beam to pass through. You would space it well away from the front of the box to still allow the hot air to vent and escape. On the baffle surface facing the projector you would use sound absorbent material. You might use the shape of the baffle to help direct the sound towards the rear of the room/away from the seats. A temporary solution might be as simple as cardboard with foam on the back to see if it is effective or not.


----------



## jch2

I just installed my new 6050UB last night (upgraded from a 5050UB) and I am impressed. I can actually see a difference, although I'm not directly comparing them. I don't know if that's because of individual variances in the quality of the Epson units, or if the better lens and potentially other components make a difference. High power mode on the 6050UB is definitely warmer than the 5050UB, I see the slight red shift as the lamp powers up from medium that I didn't see on the 5050UB, which had more of a green shift. But that may be because my bulb on the 6050UB is brand new (5 hours). I have read calibration reports that say the 6050UB is slightly warmer by default, so maybe there is some unspecified difference to account for that.

One thing I'm puzzled by: the Epson 6050UB claims to have ISF Day, ISF Night, and ISF and CalMAN patterns and tools built-in (that the 5050UB does not), but I only see that in the marketing materials. It's not mentioned anywhere in the manuals and also not in any of the menus I have access to (regular and service menu). There must be a hidden ISF calibration menu. I suspect it's hidden on purpose (so a public reply might be bad form), but if someone knows how to access it, could you send me a PM please? Thanks!

-J.C.


----------



## noob00224

3fingerbrown said:


> Guys, I am planning a theater with the 5050 or 6050 and I have 5 questions for you:
> 
> 1. Will either Epson handle a 160” diagonal 2.39 screen? The primary use is for movies in a dark, light controlled dedicated theater. The screen I’m planning is the Screen Innovations in the Slate 1.2 gain fabric. This is an ALR fabric, which I had planned to utilize for sports watching with some ambient light, but the primary use is for movie watching in a dark room. I would say sports watching is maybe 5-10% of overall use. I could switch to their pure white fabric if that would really helped the brightness, and just accept some compromises when having some ambient light in the room for sports parties.
> 
> 2. The projector calculators I’m looking at say I should have the throw distance at about 22 feet. Closer than that puts the projector into a wide angle setting. Does that look right?
> 
> 3. Would the 6050UB vs 5050 make any difference in image quality or brightness, given some of my challenges? I’ve read the 6050 has higher quality lenses, would this or anything else help my brightness challenges?
> 
> 4. I’ve read about the noise on this projector and I’m planning on having to do a hush box since I’m assuming it will run at least in the medium brightness setting. Would running it in high full time be strenuous on the projector? Or does that just wear out the lamp sooner?
> 
> 5. The 6050 comes with a mount. Is it a good one? How flush to the ceiling does it get? I was toying with the idea of mounting it to the ceiling and then building the hush box around it, but to make this work the mount has to get the projector pretty tight to the ceiling.


1. 
Before getting any screen it's very recommended it be used on a wall for a few weeks to see what works.


An 160" 2.39:1 screen fits inside a 169.3" 16:9 screen. Square surface for this 169.3" screen is 85.08 ft².
16:9 needs to be used for calculations since this is the format the projector outputs and brightness goes to the black bars as well.

These measurements are taken with 100% zoom.










_*Zoom Lens Light Loss.* Going from the widest to the full telephoto setting on the 2.1x zoom lens resulted in a little more than 28% loss of light in any given color mode. 

_
With the current setup about 50% of zoom is used, so 14% of light loss.

To calculate the fL the lumens of the present and lamp mode needs to be divided by the square surface.
Example:
Natural preset in Eco lamp has 1438lm. 1438/85.08=16.9fL
Now take out the light loss: 16.9 x 0.86=14.53fL
After this add in the gain of the screen. 
Can't remember if the Slate 1.2 actually has 1.2 gain, but let's assume that it does.
14.53 x 1.2=17.43fL

15fL is recommended for SDR, 30+fL for HDR.
Lamps loose around 25% brightness after 500h, after that the light loss is linear until the estimated hour rate of the lamp, which is 50% of it's original brightness.
The closer a projector is, the brighter it will be.

That being said, for this type of fabric and ALR's in general, in order not to experience visual artifacts a minimum throw range of 1.5x is recommended. It;s very likely that even at this throw range some artifacts will be visible with bright images. A throw closer to 2.0x would be better suited.
Throw range is calculated by the width of the screen. The width of this screen is 147.6"=12.3'.
22'/12.3'=1.78x

It's unknown how much the image will be impacted by artifacts at 1.78x throw range. 
Can the projector be placed further back? 
You can get the screen and try the projector at different distances, with smaller images.


What are the color of the walls?
The ideal setup is a room without any reflections and a white screen. Some users are unhappy with the image of any ALR screen, without any obvious artifacts like hotspots or sparkle. But you might not notice.
While an ALR screen is good at combating ambient light, a white screen, one with maybe a bit of gain would be better. The workaround is the light should not hit the screen directly. Recessed lights in the viewing are and not in the screen area.
And for only 5-10% of sports use I would just get a white screen and manage the lightning in the room.

As to what white screen you should get, make a thread or read some of the other ones here:https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/
Of course a simple Silver Ticket/Carl's/Elite white fabric would do well.

If you want a screen with some ALR properties without the downsides, and increase the contrast of the image certain paint mixes can be used:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/1311989-official-silver-fire-v-2-thread.html


To read more about projector use in ambient light, check out this thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...msrp/3101870-projector-use-ambient-light.html

A general discussion on white/grey/ALR screens:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-s...screens-vs-gray-screens-color-pop-whites.html



2.Use this calculator. 
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

3. I don't believe there is any significant light output difference between the 5050 and 6050.

4. The lamp will wear out quicker if used on a higher setting. But they are not that expensive.
There is an increased thermal stress when using the projector in a higher lamp mode, but I don't know how much that will actually affect it's lifespan. If it's going to be used 5 hours every day for 10 years, that might cause some components to fail quicker. I'd say don't worry about it.

5. The mount the 6050UB is great.
Not sure how flush it gets.

Please consider treating the room for wall reflections.
Demonstration:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/


----------



## 3fingerbrown

noob00224 said:


> 1.
> Before getting any screen it's very recommended it be used on a wall for a few weeks to see what works.


Noob00224, thank you for this detailed response, it is chock full of useful info, I have already read it and re-read it several times!

Could I trouble you to cut and pasting this excellent post in my dedicated build thread and I can respond over there? I have a feeling our back and forth discussion could get very specific about my room...


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-d...3095506-big-daddy-theater-2.html#post58805034


----------



## HTX^2steve

gene4ht said:


> This is a known idiosyncrasy with the 5040/6040 lens memory function...and may also be applicable to the 5050/6050. Three years ago (2016), Epson’s engineers addressed and provided the following procedure for utilizing lens memory.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-591.html#post58347382


I had enough of messing around adjusting the lens shift crap...I just let it get close to where I needed it and then adjusted the projector manually.


----------



## jch2

jch2 said:


> The Epson 6050UB claims to have ISF Day, ISF Night, and ISF and CalMAN patterns and tools built-in (that the 5050UB does not), but I only see that in the marketing materials. It's not mentioned anywhere in the manuals and also not in any of the menus I have access to (regular and service menu). There must be a hidden ISF calibration menu. I suspect it's hidden on purpose (so a public reply might be bad form), but if someone knows how to access it, could you send me a PM please? Thanks!


I contacted Epson support about the ISF Day and ISF Night modes. It turns out the Epson website page and manual don't mention this. It is only review sites that mention it (like Projector Central), and according to the Epson support representative I spoke with, those sites are incorrect. Older Epson projectors have ISF Day and ISF Night color modes. The newer projectors don't.

What the 6050UB does have instead is 10 memory slots all selectable and usable. But, an ISF calibrator has the option of locking up to 8 of those slots to prevent an end-user from messing up the settings afterward calibration. The calibrator doesn't have to lock them, it is just an option.

If someone has any additional info about this, please share. If you can confirm what the Epson rep said, or if you have or have had a 6050 (or you are an ISF calibrater and have calibrated one) and know differently, please share what you know. Thanks!


----------



## gene4ht

HTX^2steve said:


> I had enough of messing around adjusting the lens shift crap...I just let it get close to where I needed it and then adjusted the projector manually.


Can’t say I disagree with your prospective on the lens “memory” procedure...just wanted to share Epson’s official response to your question/experience/observation. Although I personally feel the 5040/6040/5050/6050 PJ’s put out an incredible image and represent excellent value, there are aspects of Epson’s corporate leadership and communication that require improvement.


----------



## NxNW

MississippiMan said:


> A photon is a particle of light. The higher the frequency, the more energy the photon has. Of course, a beam of light has many photons. Breaking that down to two examples, this means that really intense *white light* can carry more power to a given area than less intense _*black /*_ *grey light* .


 Particles have energy. Waves have frequency. (Radiation exhibits particle wave duality so yes, both concepts apply, as you seem to be aware of.) But "intense white light" carries more energy not because it has higher frequency radiation but because it simply has a more abundant stream of particles than "black / grey light". It's about how many photons arrive per second, not how frantically they are wiggling when they get there. White vs grey is more about "radiant flux" than "frequency". If we were truly talking about higher frequency we would perceive a color shift.


----------



## HTX^2steve

So far digging this 5050ub...I always wanted to make a 2:35:1 mask for my 120-inch diag screen and when I was waiting for my new projector that was damaged in shipping, I did just that. A tad disappointing that the Epson lens memory is not precise when saving and I didn't want to waste more time trying to make it work with the recommended methods and just let it get as close to where it wanted to be and then set the projector manually. 

I designed it with black velvet, XPS foam board, a wood dowel, two hanging brackets and a glue gun. So simple but lots of engineering to find how this is all went together. 

I measured how far down a 2:35 movie was and then cut the foam at that height for both top and bottom black bars then glued another panel and some dowel pegs to get the 10 foot width of the screen. Used the glue gun to wrap the velvet and glued it to the back of the foam board. Bought some office hangers and glued them to the back of the foam board and done.

I totally love the fact that I can set a lens memory for 2:35 and then remove the mask for 16:9! 

All for $50!


----------



## HTX^2steve

Now I am nit picking with this 5050 projector but those of us that hang this PJ from the ceiling....why is there two blue led lights that shine down from the heavens upon my second row of seating and cast light onto my movie viewing patrons! Time to bring out the black tape....ugh! 

So far the things I don't like about this projector:

It is white
Lens shift memory save function a pain in the a** to set
Blue lights for the power light to bright


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> Now I am nit picking with this 5050 projector but those of us that hang this PJ from the ceiling....why is there two blue led lights that shine down from the heavens upon my second row of seating and cast light onto my movie viewing patrons! Time to bring out the black tape....ugh!
> 
> 
> 
> So far the things I don't like about this projector:
> 
> 
> 
> It is white
> 
> Lens shift memory save function a pain in the a** to set
> 
> Blue lights for the power light to bright


I wouldn't cover the lights. They are there to inform you if something goes wrong with the projector. They will blink different colors. Trust me. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

HTX^2steve said:


> Now I am nit picking with this 5050 projector but those of us that hang this PJ from the ceiling....why is there two blue led lights that shine down from the heavens upon my second row of seating and cast light onto my movie viewing patrons! Time to bring out the black tape....ugh!
> 
> So far the things I don't like about this projector:
> 
> It is white
> Lens shift memory save function a pain in the a** to set
> Blue lights for the power light to bright


You can disable those status LEDs in the projector settings.

If you want to see them, but just make them not as bright you can also do the old tried and true putting one or more layers of dark tint (or tinted tape/lexan/plexiglass/glass) over them to block most of the light.


----------



## HTX^2steve

jch2 said:


> You can disable those status LEDs in the projector settings.
> 
> If you want to see them, but just make them not as bright you can also do the old tried and true putting one or more layers of dark tint (or tinted tape/lexan/plexiglass/glass) over them to block most of the light.


Oh....really? You mean Epson put a feature that might be helpful for those with light controlled theaters? I will continue to read that manual then....thanks.


----------



## HTX^2steve

OMG...I give up...would you happen to know where it says that you can turn off the status light in the manual?


----------



## Keith AP

HTX^2steve said:


> OMG...I give up...would you happen to know where it says that you can turn off the status light in the manual?


 Pg 124...or look in menu under "Extended/Operation/Illumination"


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> OMG...I give up...would you happen to know where it says that you can turn off the status light in the manual?


Extended > Operation> Illumination >Off

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> Extended > Operation> Illumination >Off
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yep...there it is on page 124:

Illumination Turns off the status indicator lights on the projector

skylarlove1999....thank you for your amazing insight to this crazy hobby we are all a part of!


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> Yep...there it is on page 124:
> 
> 
> 
> Illumination Turns off the status indicator lights on the projector
> 
> 
> 
> skylarlove1999....thank you for your amazing insight to this crazy hobby we are all a part of!


Very welcome. Just be sure to turn off the projector if you don't get an image after about a minute at any time since you won't see the orange lights . Don't want it to overheat. I am hopeful you will never have any issues.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> Very welcome. Just be sure to turn off the projector if you don't get an image after about a minute at any time since you won't see the orange lights . Don't want it to overheat. I am hopeful you will never have any issues.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


What a nice difference when those blue lights are out. I did notice that when I was turning off the projector the status light did blink blue but I am ok with that, just not having them on when a movie is playing was the goal.

Now if only a firmware update to change the case from white to black!


----------



## JonfromCB

lol...firmware update. That's hilarious.


----------



## olegg

HTX^2steve said:


> What a nice difference when those blue lights are out. I did notice that when I was turning off the projector the status light did blink blue but I am ok with that, just not having them on when a movie is playing was the goal.
> 
> Now if only a firmware update to change the case from white to black!


 Funny guy, but seriously ... How do you find noise level on this unit? How far you sitting from it? Are you running it in ECO I suppose? Is it sitting on the shelf or you mounted it? I am planning to install my projector in my soon to be build HT soffit.


----------



## HTX^2steve

olegg said:


> Funny guy, but seriously ... How do you find noise level on this unit? How far you sitting from it? Are you running it in ECO I suppose? Is it sitting on the shelf or you mounted it? I am planning to install my projector in my soon to be build HT soffit.


I am 16' from 120inch screen to lens with two rows of seating with a light controlled theater so ECO is great for me! From the second row of seating the projector is ceiling mounted and 6 feet above their heads and the fan on ECO is really quiet but I do understand those with noise issues when the PJ is on any other power mode. However I do have a lot of fans providing air movement in the room for the fact that all my equipment is all in that room so fan noise is a way of life in my theater.

But way cool this projector has been thus far...really happy with it!


----------



## jch2

ALRLIFE said:


> Have any owners in this thread seen both the 5050UB and the 6050UB in person? I don't mean comparing specs but compared the two in person? I loved my 6500UB but I do feel I overpaid for it. I since sold it for about what I paid for it and I'm looking at possibly buying a 5050UB next week, but I wanted to know is there any discernable difference picture quality, brightness, visible contrast between the two?


I recently upgraded from a 5050UB to a 6050UB. While I did not directly A/B or blind/double-blind compare them, I have owned projection technology for over 15 years and know some things to look for. See my previous post in this thread for my quick initial impressions of the differences. Is it worth $1,300 more? No, definitely not.

However, unlike the 5050UB where the margins are slim, it pays to shop around for the 6050UB. There is quite a bit of margin available in the 6050UB, which leaves room for negotiation. Talk to as many authorized dealers as you can. Dealers can't advertise prices less than MSRP, but can give you deals, verbally, or in packages along with other components and services like install and calibration.

If you want good source/pricing on a 6050UB from authorized dealers, PM me with where you live and I can provide you some options.


----------



## HTX^2steve

ALRLIFE said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I recently upgraded from a 5050UB to a 6050UB. While I did not directly A/B or blind/double-blind compare them, I have owned projection technology for over 15 years and know some things to look for. See my previous post in this thread for my quick initial impressions of the differences. Is it worth $1,300 more? No, definitely not.
> 
> However, unlike the 5050UB where the margins are slim, it pays to shop around for the 6050UB. There is quite a bit of margin available in the 6050UB, which leaves room for negotiation. Talk to as many authorized dealers as you can. Dealers can't advertise prices less than MSRP, but can give you deals, verbally, or in packages along with other components and services like install and calibration.
> 
> If you want good source/pricing on a 6050UB from authorized dealers, PM me with where you live and I can provide you some options.[/quote
> 
> Thank you for the offer of information. I know a few dealers in my area so I am set on that front. I read the review of the Epson 6050 where it was compared to the 5050 at Projector Central. The reviewer could not pinpoint any observable difference between the two. I'm definitely not going to spend any extra cash this time around on the 6050. And my bulb would consistently flicker on eco mode with my 6050 which I found disheartening for the premium I paid. If I don't upgrade to a 695ES or JVC RS1000, I'm going to save money and go with a 5050UB.
> 
> 
> 
> The 6050 has a rare earth mineral onyx paint that makes it virtually disappear when mounted onto your ceiling...  Save your money and grab the 5050ub and be done with it...It is a nice projector for the money.
Click to expand...


----------



## Oscarilbo

Hi guys... I'm relatively new at this whole PJ thing.

I have a BenQ 1700M/HT2550M (the newest revised version, hence the "M") and absolutely love it. Not the best black levels but great overall performance, specially HDR, so that's why I ended up painted my white pull down screen with a grey paint for screens, and also having my walls and ceiling clear painted I was having lots of light bouncing to a degree my room seemed as it all lights were on (I only watch in "darkness").

All that has changed for the better now with the grey paint, BUT just one thing, shadow detail in *HDR* mode it's been crushed in some dark scenes. I tried turning up HDR levels but this clipped the whites in some movies, and also give it a more "plastic" feel to the images for my taste, so I left it in the default setting which is 0. The only solution was to turn basic *brightness* control up by 2-3 bars from an overall 100 bars option with a default of 50, making it about 52-53. This brought back shadow detail perfectly, so my question is .... *am I ruining HDR performance by doing this?* I've read professionals talking about not altering any of the HDR mode settings because that would affect HDR performance negatively, but they tend to talk more about TVs than projectors.

Thanks so much in advance guys!


----------



## cubsfan

Oscarilbo said:


> Hi guys... I'm relatively new at this whole PJ thing.
> 
> I have a BenQ 1700M/HT2550M (the newest revised version, hence the "M") and absolutely love it. Not the best black levels but great overall performance, specially HDR, so that's why I ended up painted my white pull down screen with a grey paint for screens, and also having my walls and ceiling clear painted I was having lots of light bouncing to a degree my room seemed as it all lights were on (I only watch in "darkness").
> 
> All that has changed for the better now with the grey paint, BUT just one thing, shadow detail in *HDR* mode it's been crushed in some dark scenes. I tried turning up HDR levels but this clipped the whites in some movies, and also give it a more "plastic" feel to the images for my taste, so I left it in the default setting which is 0. The only solution was to turn basic *brightness* control up by 2-3 bars from an overall 100 bars option with a default of 50, making it about 52-53. This brought back shadow detail perfectly, so my question is .... *am I ruining HDR performance by doing this?* I've read professionals talking about not altering any of the HDR mode settings because that would affect HDR performance negatively, but they tend to talk more about TVs than projectors.
> 
> Thanks so much in advance guys![/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you should post this in the appropriate BenQ thread. this is the epson 5050/6050 thread.


----------



## Oscarilbo

cubsfan said:


> Oscarilbo said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys... I'm relatively new at this whole PJ thing.
> 
> I have a BenQ 1700M/HT2550M (the newest revised version, hence the "M") and absolutely love it. Not the best black levels but great overall performance, specially HDR, so that's why I ended up painted my white pull down screen with a grey paint for screens, and also having my walls and ceiling clear painted I was having lots of light bouncing to a degree my room seemed as it all lights were on (I only watch in "darkness").
> 
> All that has changed for the better now with the grey paint, BUT just one thing, shadow detail in *HDR* mode it's been crushed in some dark scenes. I tried turning up HDR levels but this clipped the whites in some movies, and also give it a more "plastic" feel to the images for my taste, so I left it in the default setting which is 0. The only solution was to turn basic *brightness* control up by 2-3 bars from an overall 100 bars option with a default of 50, making it about 52-53. This brought back shadow detail perfectly, so my question is .... *am I ruining HDR performance by doing this?* I've read professionals talking about not altering any of the HDR mode settings because that would affect HDR performance negatively, but they tend to talk more about TVs than projectors.
> 
> Thanks so much in advance guys![/
> 
> 
> 
> you should post this in the appropriate BenQ thread. this is the epson 5050/6050 thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, and I did but no answers there as if it the thread it's abandoned lol.
> 
> My question is more of a general question about HDR mode on projectors.
Click to expand...


----------



## momofx

Oscarilbo said:


> cubsfan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, and I did but *no answers there as if it the thread it's abandoned lol*.
> 
> My question is more of a general question about HDR mode on projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a reason to abandon the Benq lol. The support here on the Epson 5040/5050/6050 is great.
> 
> 
> Believe it or not, I was going to get a Benq based on the price but after I saw the rainbow effect, that was it for me. I now have a 5050UB and never been happier.
Click to expand...


----------



## DaGamePimp

Has anyone had an issue with faint parallel vertical lines that run from top to bottom in their image (it's not source related)?

The lines are more visible in the lamps hot-spot area where it's a bit pinkish (brand new 5050ub).

- It's one set of two lines that are about an inch apart (133" screen) about a foot over from the right side (not that it makes a difference).

I hate the thought of an exchange due to this unit having such incredible focus, truly the best I have ever seen on an LCD projector.

This is my fourth Epson in about a month... two 3800's (drifting lens shift), one 4010 (odd handshake/sync issues - on fiber optic HDMI) and now this 5050ub. 

- It appears Epson QC is suspect, to put it kindly.

Other than that it throws an amazing image. 

** This anomaly went away somewhere around 100 hours on the lamp.* 

- Jason


----------



## jch2

DaGamePimp said:


> Has anyone had an issue with faint parallel vertical lines that run from top to bottom in their image (it's not source related)?
> 
> The lines are more visible in the lamps hot-spot area where it's a bit pinkish (brand new 5050ub).
> 
> - It's one set of two lines that are about an inch apart (133" screen) about a foot over from the right side (not that it makes a difference).
> 
> I hate the thought of an exchange due to this unit having such incredible focus, truly the best I have ever seen on an LCD projector.
> 
> This is my fourth Epson in about a month... two 3800's (drifting lens shift), one 4010 (odd handshake/sync issues - on fiber optic HDMI) and now this 5050ub.
> 
> - It appears Epson QC is suspect, to put it kindly.
> 
> Other than that it throws an amazing image. /forum/images/smilies/cool.gif
> 
> - Jason


I haven't heard of that problem or seen it on the three Epson's I've had in the last couple months (two 5050UBs and now a 6050UB). My first 5050UB had lens shift issues (different position when I powered up than when I shut down the night before) and lens shift would mess up focus, and focus would change the lens shift. My second 5050UB was perfect, but I sold it and bought a 6050UB, which is also perfect so far.

I suspect Epson's QC as well. I've read about lots of issues here on this thread, including lots of lens shift issues. If you get a good one, they are amazing. But, I think there's always a chance of getting a bad one new in box. Buy from a dealer that will do advanced exchange for another new in box unit in the first 30 days. Don't accept an Epson exchange in the first 30 days, as they might give you a refurb with questionable QC. I've heard bad things about the refurbs having more issues than new in box.

I'd exchange the one you have with your dealer and try again. Good luck!

-J.C.


----------



## FendersRule

FWIW, my 5050UB has been perfect over the past few months. Playing solely 1080p, non-upscaled Blurays. 

Image Enhancement set at 2 or 3 (depending on what you find the best)--that feature is worth several hundred dollars and is MUCH better than just blindly up-scaling 1080p sources.

Very happy with mine. It's a light canon.


----------



## Luminated67

There’s a misconception when we read shadow detail is being crushed, unless the projector has been properly calibration one can not say for sure whether that shadow detail should be visibly present or not.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Love the feature of blanking...I can now run those movies like Fallout that have both 16:9 and 2:35 formats and keep it now all at 2:35! And a bonus to save it as a lens memory! Still haven't spent the time to follow those lens shift steps to having it stay put but somehow it is close enough.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Finally got around to running the cables up in the attic to the projector. I also connected a Ethernet cable to it. I have an IP address now for the projector so how does one stream? to this device? or is there another reason for the ip addy?


----------



## Bluered Leaves

Which/who's calibration settings are people having the best luck with? I've been reading through the thread and also tried projectorreviews - but am getting a bit confused. I know it won't be perfect, but I'm just wondering what people are ending up with? Looking for HDR with and without filter and SDR.


----------



## Oscarilbo

Luminated67 said:


> There’s a misconception when we read shadow detail is being crushed, unless the projector has been properly calibration one can not say for sure whether that shadow detail should be visibly present or not.


That's so true.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Bluered Leaves said:


> Which/who's calibration settings are people having the best luck with? I've been reading through the thread and also tried projectorreviews - but am getting a bit confused. I know it won't be perfect, but I'm just wondering what people are ending up with? Looking for HDR with and without filter and SDR.


I calibrated my projector with the spears and munsil uhd disc and so far my Tint with the blue filter was off by +8 from 50. I still need to go through the HDR portion.


----------



## reechings

HTX^2steve said:


> Love the feature of blanking...I can now run those movies like Fallout that have both 16:9 and 2:35 formats and keep it now all at 2:35! And a bonus to save it as a lens memory! Still haven't spent the time to follow those lens shift steps to having it stay put but somehow it is close enough.


Are you physically having to add masking or just doing it with the projector?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

HTX^2steve said:


> Finally got around to running the cables up in the attic to the projector. I also connected a Ethernet cable to it. I have an IP address now for the projector so how does one stream? to this device? or is there another reason for the ip addy?


The projector has no internal media player. Port is most likely for updates and IP remote control.


----------



## jch2

rekbones said:


> HTX^2steve said:
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got around to running the cables up in the attic to the projector. I also connected a Ethernet cable to it. I have an IP address now for the projector so how does one stream? to this device? or is there another reason for the ip addy?
> 
> 
> 
> The projector has no internal media player. Port is most likely for updates and IP remote control.
Click to expand...

Firmware updates are USB only. It doesn't use the network for updates.

The network is used for IP control.

There's also a screen sharing app, Epson iProjection, for Windows, Mac, Android, and iOS that you can run to share your screen on the projector over the network. It's more for business presentations than video, and it's video only, no audio.

So, for the most part there's no need to connect it to your home network.


----------



## Luminated67

HTX^2steve said:


> I calibrated my projector with the spears and munsil uhd disc and so far my Tint with the blue filter was off by +8 from 50. I still need to go through the HDR portion.


Total waste of time trying to set up the colour with the filter, I did the same and when I got it calibrated he returned the colour along with brightness and contrast to the default position and then started to adjust the individual colours as well as the grey scale.


----------



## dloiphone

schmidtwi said:


> I am using a 25' Cabernet Ultra CL2 Active High Speed HDMI, but I'm experiencing some intermittent video drops that I didn't have with my 5040.
> 
> 
> 
> So I just bought a Furui Fiber optic HDMI this week, will install tomorrow to see if that fixes the problem.


Did you get your new cable in? Looking into swapping into a Optic HDMI or giving the BlueJeans Cable people keep recommending a chance.

I am currently using a monoprice 35ft cable and i believe that might be my issue. I even tried my previous 25ft Monoprice HDMI and it does not work well with the 6050ub. That same 25ft cable I was using with a Sony 75X940e and was able to get all checkmarks with the Xbox One X. Same hardware, just stepped to the 6050ub.


----------



## Tha_liks

I am considering getting this project in the next couple months mostly because of the autofocus lens to be able to take advantage the 16:9 content and 2.35.1 in the same screen. 

I am always confused using the projector central calculator to determine if it will work in my room or not.


I currently have this screen , it is 125" diagonal 235.1 aspect ratio and 1.1 gain 





https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I4WSXWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The front of my screen to the front of the Epson 5050ub lense will be 19 feet 6 inches. I mostly watch movies during the late night so it will be completely dark.



Will this work for my room? All feedback will be welcome wouldn't want to spend that much money and not work. 



thank you


----------



## skylarlove1999

Greetings and salutations all my fellow 4k enthusiasts. Anyone else watching the NFL game tonight in 4k using the Fox Sports app on a Roku media player? This is the first game all season where the broadcast seems to be in HDR10 . 

I thought broadcast HDR was actually HLG not HDR. All the other Thursday night NFL broadcasts have been in SDR. I have included a screenshot. Any confirmation or feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: Apparently Apple TV 4K and Roku cannot accept the HLG HDR stream so Fox is converting HLG to HDR10. So tonight's game is in HDR.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

Tha_liks said:


> I am considering getting this project in the next couple months mostly because of the autofocus lens to be able to take advantage the 16:9 content and 2.35.1 in the same screen.
> 
> I am always confused using the projector central calculator to determine if it will work in my room or not.
> 
> 
> I currently have this screen , it is 125" diagonal 235.1 aspect ratio and 1.1 gain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I4WSXWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> The front of my screen to the front of the Epson 5050ub lense will be 19 feet 6 inches. I mostly watch movies during the late night so it will be completely dark.
> 
> 
> 
> Will this work for my room? All feedback will be welcome wouldn't want to spend that much money and not work.
> 
> 
> 
> thank you


Yes it will work but just barely. A 125" diag screen is 48" high so to fit a 16:9 image in the 2:39 area screen the projector would need to zoom down to a 98" diag (48" tall) 16:9 and that is right at the max zoom for a 19'6" throw


----------



## biglen

dloiphone said:


> Did you get your new cable in? Looking into swapping into a Optic HDMI or giving the BlueJeans Cable people keep recommending a chance.
> 
> 
> 
> I am currently using a monoprice 35ft cable and i believe that might be my issue. I even tried my previous 25ft Monoprice HDMI and it does not work well with the 6050ub. That same 25ft cable I was using with a Sony 75X940e and was able to get all checkmarks with the Xbox One X. Same hardware, just stepped to the 6050ub.


Get the Series 3 Active. I can confirm they work flawlessly on a long run. 

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

reechings said:


> Are you physically having to add masking or just doing it with the projector?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Both...I added a black velvet mask to the top of my 16:9 screen that I made for $50 when watching 2:35 and then lowered the image to the bottom of my screen and then used the blanking to blacken out the 16:9 top and bottom image.


----------



## reechings

HTX^2steve said:


> Both...I added a black velvet mask to the top of my 16:9 screen that I made for $50 when watching 2:35 and then lowered the image to the bottom of my screen and then used the blanking to blacken out the 16:9 top and bottom image.


Ah ok, thanks! Still debating using a screen or just painting one complete wall instead.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

reechings said:


> Ah ok, thanks! Still debating using a screen or just painting one complete wall instead.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I am a fan of the screen look. GO TEAM SCREEN!


----------



## olegg

reechings said:


> Ah ok, thanks! Still debating using a screen or just painting one complete wall instead.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/3086776-black-flame-diy-screen.html


----------



## jch2

HTX^2steve said:


> reechings said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you physically having to add masking or just doing it with the projector?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Both...I added a black velvet mask to the top of my 16:9 screen that I made for $50 when watching 2:35 and then lowered the image to the bottom of my screen and then used the blanking to blacken out the 16:9 top and bottom image.
Click to expand...

I do that exact same thing. The only thing I don't like is that it cuts off the media controls for some apps, and it also cuts off the OSD for my Yamaha AVR's volume change display. I might just have to splurge and get an anamorphic lens. Too bad those lenses are so expensive!


----------



## HTX^2steve

jch2 said:


> I do that exact same thing. The only thing I don't like is that it cuts off the media controls for some apps, and it also cuts off the OSD for my Yamaha AVR's volume change display. I might just have to splurge and get an anamorphic lens (I have the 6050UB which can stretch the image properly for using an anamorphic lens). Too bad those lenses are so expensive!


What you could do is have another lens save for no masking so you can adjust and then with a push of a button go back with the blanking etc...no anamorphic lens for me...just another damn high priced ticket item I don't need!


----------



## biglen

HTX^2steve said:


> I am a fan of the screen look. GO TEAM SCREEN!


Team Painted screen here ! 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dloiphone

biglen said:


> Get the Series 3 Active. I can confirm they work flawlessly on a long run.
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




Seems like I missed a setting on the 6050. Didn’t change the edid to extended. After that chang, now I’m getting all checks besides Dolby vision. Tried my Apple TV 4K and was able to swap to 4:4:4 as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

ALRLIFE said:


> I'm still wondering why the 5050's lumens measured lower than the 5040? Bright Cinema mode is 400 lumens lower with the 5050 during test in comparison to previous model at Projector Central reviews. I loved my Epson 6050 but I did immediately notice Bright Cinema mode was discernably dimmer than the same mode on my Epson 5040.


What source are you using that shows that the 5050UB has 400 lumens lower output than the 5040UB in Bright Cinema mode? Please post a link. The ProjectorCentral review here doesn't seem to have anything related to Bright Cinema lumens output.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB-Review.htm


----------



## sddawson

HTX^2steve said:


> Both...I added a black velvet mask to the top of my 16:9 screen that I made for $50 when watching 2:35 and then lowered the image to the bottom of my screen and then used the blanking to blacken out the 16:9 top and bottom image.


Any chance you could share how you made your masking panel, and how it’s attached to the screen surround? I presume you take it off when you watch 16:9 material?


----------



## sddawson

jch2 said:


> I do that exact same thing. The only thing I don't like is that it cuts off the media controls for some apps, and it also cuts off the OSD for my Yamaha AVR's volume change display. I might just have to splurge and get an anamorphic lens (I have the 6050UB which can stretch the image properly for using an anamorphic lens). Too bad those lenses are so expensive!


How does the anamorphic lens help in this situation? I mean, you’re projecting a 2.35:1 image with or without an anamorphic lens if you have that sized screen (or have masked a 16:9 screen to be that size), and the AVR’s display will still be below that won’t it? I’m probably missing something very obvious here!


----------



## HTX^2steve

sddawson said:


> Any chance you could share how you made your masking panel, and how it’s attached to the screen surround? I presume you take it off when you watch 16:9 material?


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-155.html#post58924346


----------



## jch2

sddawson said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I do that exact same thing. The only thing I don't like is that it cuts off the media controls for some apps, and it also cuts off the OSD for my Yamaha AVR's volume change display. I might just have to splurge and get an anamorphic lens. Too bad those lenses are so expensive!
> 
> 
> 
> How does the anamorphic lens help in this situation? I mean, youâ€™️re projecting a 2.35:1 image with or without an anamorphic lens if you have that sized screen (or have masked a 16:9 screen to be that size), and the AVRâ€™️s display will still be below that wonâ€™️t it? Iâ€™️m probably missing something very obvious here!
Click to expand...

If you stretch the image at the source (expand it vertically to fill out where the black bars would have been) and then overlay controls/OSD, and send that through the projector where the lens stretches the image horizontally to fill the 2.35:1 screen, you get full overlays/OSD, just stretched horizontally. Of course, this only works for sources / apps that can do the anamorphic vertical stretch of the source video before overlays are added.


----------



## jch2

ALRLIFE said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What source are you using that shows that the 5050UB has 400 lumens lower output than the 5040UB in Bright Cinema mode? Please post a link. The ProjectorCentral review here doesn't seem to have anything related to Bright Cinema lumens output.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB-Review.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-5040ub-review.htm
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-HC5050UB-vBenQ-HT5550.htm
Click to expand...

Thanks for the links. I see what you are asking about now.

Those reviews are 2.5 years apart. And David doesn't let us know which light meter (or meters) he's using, what screen, what throw distance, what ambient light conditions exists, and if he's calibrated his meter.

I can't find any other reviews that claim the Epson 5040UB is up at 3,500+ lumens in dynamic mode (i.e. 41% above spec). If it really were that bright typically, I think Epson would have marketed that as a feature. The two models both use the same 250w UHE bulb, V13H010L89 / ELPLP89. https://epson.com/Accessories/Proje...-Replacement-Projector-Lamp-Bulb/p/V13H010L89

Maybe the projector David was reviewing was a fluke (i.e. atypical bulb brightness), a golden sample from Epson, his light meter was off, or he just did the math wrong.

However, that doesn't explain what you are perceiving with your own eyes.

Maybe you (or someone) should email David and ask him if there were any environmental conditions different between those two tests that could explain the difference. And if not, maybe ask him to try to explain why two nearly identical projectors would have such a high difference in lumens output.

I'll hunt around my local area and if I can find someone with a 5040 or 6040 I'll bring my 6050 projector over and we compare side by side.


----------



## WarpedPixel

*Blanking setting stored with lens memory?*

Trying to figure out if I will be able to store a particular blanking setting (digital cropping of scanlines off screen) with each lens memory slot on the 5050ub. Can someone confirm this is how that works? So when I recall a given memory it will just do/undo the crop too? The manual lists everything the lens memory stores but I am hoping the lack of mention of blanking is an oversight. I know the JVC NX5 does it that way and it sounds perfect for my application (2.35:1 CIH screen).


----------



## jch2

WarpedPixel said:


> Trying to figure out if I will be able to store a particular blanking setting (digital cropping of scanlines off screen) with each lens memory slot on the 5050ub. Can someone confirms this is how that works? SÃ³ when I recall a given memory it will just do/undo the crop too? I know the JVC NX5 does it that way and it sounds perfect for my application (2.35:1 CIH screen).


Yes, the blanking settings are saved and recalled along with the focus, zoom, and lens shift settings in each lens memory slot (NOTE: there are separate memory slots for calibration/picture and lens). I'm not sure if anything else is saved in the lens slots though, I haven't tested other settings, but the blanking settings are definitely saved and recalled.


----------



## travis1041

For those that use HCFR to calibrate the Epson 5050ub. Do you set your HCFR in projector mode and telephoto setting. When you do hdr calibration what patterns do you use and what setting do you set your hcfr. I use an nvidia shield as my source. I know this might be a good question for the HCFR thread but was hoping some of the people that have worked with this specific projector would have some insight .Thanks for any info you can give me.


----------



## DavidinGA

ALRLIFE said:


> I'm still wondering why the 5050's lumens measured lower than the 5040? Bright Cinema mode is 400 lumens lower with the 5050 during test in comparison to previous model at Projector Central reviews. I loved my Epson 6050 but I did immediately notice Bright Cinema mode was discernably dimmer than the same mode on my Epson 5040.


Variables in bulb performance perhaps? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

jch2 said:


> If you stretch the image at the source (expand it vertically to fill out where the black bars would have been) and then overlay controls/OSD, and send that through the projector where the lens stretches the image horizontally to fill the 2.35:1 screen, you get full overlays/OSD, just stretched horizontally. Of course, this only works for sources / apps that can do the anamorphic vertical stretch of the source video before overlays are added.


Ah, that’s the bit I was missing - doing the stretching at source, rather than in the projector. Thanks!


----------



## sddawson

HTX^2steve said:


> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-155.html#post58924346


Thanks. What exactly does the mask hang off? The top of the screen surround?


----------



## HTX^2steve

sddawson said:


> Thanks. What exactly does the mask hang off? The top of the screen surround?


I hot glued two plastic office hooks onto the back of the mask and gravity does the rest. Let me know if you are interested and I can send you the links to the material.


----------



## sddawson

HTX^2steve said:


> I hot glued two plastic office hooks onto the back of the mask and gravity does the rest. Let me know if you are interested and I can send you the links to the material.


And the hooks go over the top of the screen surround? Any links would be useful - thank you!


----------



## HTX^2steve

sddawson said:


> And the hooks go over the top of the screen surround? Any links would be useful - thank you!


PM sent...


----------



## BIC2

Epson 6050 and Panasonic UB-820. From what I understand, Epson manual HDR slider should be disabled so as the use the Pansonic's auto slider. I cannot find any way to disable Epson slider in the "Dynamic Range" menu item. Anybody know how to handle this? Thanks.


----------



## dr bill

*Dust blob???*

On my second 5050, and this one just developed a faint, bluish furry blob a little off center of the screen, noticable only when the screen is very dark/black. I noticed it, and even my kids noticed it. Darn...

I blew off the lens with a camera air blower/tool, but the bluish blob remains.

Is this a dust blob, and if so, how do I remedy?

Thanks much!


----------



## dr bill

Yup, it's a dust blob.

Epson is sending out a replacement for this replacement. This will be my third 5050. Hopefully it's a charm!

I'm glad (kind of) that I am not investing in professional calibration on these units, given that my first two have lasted less than 70 hours each.


----------



## jch2

dr bill said:


> I'm glad (kind of) that I am not investing in professional calibration on these units, given that my first two have lasted less than 70 hours each.


You wouldn't want to have it professionally calibrated before 200 hours on the bulb. The bulb changes too much in the first 200 hours. If you did have it calibrated before then, you'd have to recalibrate at that point anyway. Also, there's too much risk of failure of a new unit (or new bulb) in the first 200 hours (as you have seen). So, you're putting money at risk if you calibrate too early.

However, you should do some basic contrast and brightness settings yourself, which you can do with a test disc or test patterns from a source. That should get things good enough for the first 200 hours, at which point you can do a full calibration.


----------



## Pretorian

Since I am running my Epson through my older Denon receiver I cant benefit from 4k.

But I have my Xbox One X connected directly to the Epson and I use optical toslink for sound to the Denon.
So now I can PLAY and watch 4k movies in 4k (well e-shift).

But I cant say that I noticed and BIG and WOW difference in picture quality. The HDR10 is "on" and everything but I really dont see any difference compared to when I watch my movies from my Dune HD Player that goes through the Denon.

I thought that HDR would "pop" some more or something... is there a certain movie I can test that uses HDR really well? Right now I have Jupiter Ascending, Alita and Black Panther on physical.


----------



## HTX^2steve

dr bill said:


> Yup, it's a dust blob.
> 
> Epson is sending out a replacement for this replacement. This will be my third 5050. Hopefully it's a charm!
> 
> I'm glad (kind of) that I am not investing in professional calibration on these units, given that my first two have lasted less than 70 hours each.


I will be taking a closer look but I thought it looks like that when this projector is on, air is also being taking into or around that lens area in addition to the intake port....Hmm.


----------



## jch2

BIC2 said:


> Epson 6050 and Panasonic UB-820. From what I understand, Epson manual HDR slider should be disabled so as the use the Pansonic's auto slider. I cannot find any way to disable Epson slider in the "Dynamic Range" menu item. Anybody know how to handle this? Thanks.


Can you please post a link to the article where you got the idea that the Epson HDR slider should be disabled when using the UB820? I don't think that it is possible to disable the slider.


----------



## BIC2

jch2 said:


> Can you please post a link to the article where you got the idea that the Epson HDR slider should be disabled when using the UB820? I don't think that it is possible to disable the slider.


Don't think it was an article, thought I saw it on this thread (but with 4700 posts . . . .). Yes, I could not find a way to disable it. But, many here said to buy the UB820 so as to use its tone-mapping auto slider that reads the metadata and responds accordingly. Otherwise, one is left with the 5050/6050 tone-mapping manual slider that doesn't auto read metadata so the user has to adjust for each disc, obviously a pain.

As I recall others here saying a long time ago, better to disable slider in Epson so as to use Panasonic slider. If Epson not disabled, then it might impose a tone-map setting on the correct Panasonic tone-map setting, i.e., double tone-mapping, which might mean it's wrong. The default on the Epson is 8. If the Panny says it's a 5, is the Epson adding 5+8 instead of 0+8 without the Panny?


----------



## jch2

BIC2 said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can you please post a link to the article where you got the idea that the Epson HDR slider should be disabled when using the UB820? I don't think that it is possible to disable the slider.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't think it was an article, thought I saw it on this thread (but with 4700 posts . . . .). Yes, I could not find a way to disable it. But, many here said to buy the UB820 so as to use its tone-mapping auto slider that reads the metadata and responds accordingly. Otherwise, one is left with the 5050/6050 tone-mapping manual slider that doesn't auto read metadata so the user has to adjust for each disc, obviously a pain.
> 
> As I recall others here saying a long time ago, better to disable slider in Epson so as to use Panasonic slider. If Epson not disabled, then it might impose a tone-map setting on the correct Panasonic tone-map setting, i.e., double tone-mapping, which might mean it's wrong. The default on the Epson is 8. If the Panny says it's a 5, is the Epson adding 5+8 instead of 0+8 without the Panny?
Click to expand...

If you can find the post with the search function, please link it. I can't find it.

But I do have a 6050UB and the UB820, and can tell you what I do. I haven't found a way to adjust the UB820's tone mapping with a slider. But what I did find was the ability to tell the UB820's settings (for one of the two presets) that the target display was a low brightness device (using the low brightness LCD/projector setting). That seems to work wonders when displaying on my Epson. I use the other preset on OLED when viewing on my LG C8. I still adjust the Epson's HDR slider to about 2-3 depending on the source. If there is an HDR slider on the UB820, I haven't found it yet. Also, if there is a way to disable the Epson's HDR slider, I haven't found it either.


----------



## BIC2

jch2 said:


> If you can find the post with the search function, please link it. I can't find it.
> 
> But I do have a 6050UB and the UB820, and can tell you what I do. I haven't found a way to adjust the UB820's tone mapping with a slider. But what I did find was the ability to tell the UB820's settings (for one of the two presets) that the target display was a low brightness device (using the low brightness LCD/projector setting). That seems to work wonders when displaying on my Epson. I use the other preset on OLED when viewing on my LG C8. I still adjust the Epson's HDR slider to about 2-3 depending on the source. If there is an HDR slider on the UB820, I haven't found it yet. Also, if there is a way to disable the Epson's HDR slider, I haven't found it either.


I'll search for it. On the UB820, for the HDR slider, see manual page 27. It's easier to actually do it than read about it. Hold HDR button down for 2+ seconds.

Optimum HDR Adjustment
This setting is also displayed by pressing and
holding [HDR SETTING] for more than
2 seconds. (􀀾 20)
Adjust the brightness, tone curve (white/ black),
system gamma and the following settings:
≥ HDR Optimizer :
If “On” is selected, you can display highly bright
scenes with smooth gradations based on the
luminance information (HDR10 metadata) of
playback content.
– This function works only for HDR (PQ)
material.
– The effect may be enhanced by setting the
“HDR TV Type” that matches your TV in the
Setup menu. (􀀾 30)

≥ Dynamic Range Adjustment :
Set the brightness of the entire screen when
outputting HDR (High Dynamic Range) video to
a connected HDR-compatible TV.
Dynamic Range Conversion Adj. :
When this unit is connected to a TV that does
not support HDR (High Dynamic Range) input,
HDR video is output converting to a SDR
(Standard Dynamic Range) video signal. If you
set a smaller value, their contrast will be
reproduced more faithfully, but the entire screen
will appear darker. To increase the brightness,
set a larger value.


----------



## prophcy0

Pretorian said:


> Since I am running my Epson through my older Denon receiver I cant benefit from 4k.
> 
> But I have my Xbox One X connected directly to the Epson and I use optical toslink for sound to the Denon.
> So now I can PLAY and watch 4k movies in 4k (well e-shift).
> 
> But I cant say that I noticed and BIG and WOW difference in picture quality. The HDR10 is "on" and everything but I really dont see any difference compared to when I watch my movies from my Dune HD Player that goes through the Denon.
> 
> I thought that HDR would "pop" some more or something... is there a certain movie I can test that uses HDR really well? Right now I have Jupiter Ascending, Alita and Black Panther on physical.


I've been doing some direct comparisons of movies by jumping between the standard and HDR versions via Plex, and the one that has had the most "WOW" factor so far has been Disney's Coco. Specifically, when they first arrive at the Land of the Dead. Also, since you're on the XB1X, I would try out Gears 5. The very first part of the intro level blew me away in terms of clarity and color/pop.


----------



## prophcy0

So, about the fan noise on these projectors. I still haven't gotten used to the audible hum that the fan makes, even in ECO and Medium power modes. I've tried to record a sample of the sound but no matter how I try to record it doesn't sound the same as it does in person. I would think I'm just being crazy by my wife still comments on the fan noise as well, and she's usually the last person to notice stuff like that. 

I have also tried measuring the SPL level of the fan with a phone app + a Dayton iMM-6, but those results don't seem consistent or conclusive either. 

Any tips on how to cheaply and accurately record the sound of the projector so I can post on here for feedback?


----------



## ProCentral Rob

jch2 said:


> Thanks for the links. I see what you are asking about now.
> 
> Those reviews are 2.5 years apart. And David doesn't let us know which light meter (or meters) he's using, what screen, what throw distance, what ambient light conditions exists, and if he's calibrated his meter.
> 
> I can't find any other reviews that claim the Epson 5040UB is up at 3,500+ lumens in dynamic mode (i.e. 41% above spec). If it really were that bright typically, I think Epson would have marketed that as a feature. The two models both use the same 250w UHE bulb, V13H010L89 / ELPLP89. https://epson.com/Accessories/Proje...-Replacement-Projector-Lamp-Bulb/p/V13H010L89
> 
> Maybe the projector David was reviewing was a fluke (i.e. atypical bulb brightness), a golden sample from Epson, his light meter was off, or he just did the math wrong.
> 
> However, that doesn't explain what you are perceiving with your own eyes.
> 
> Maybe you (or someone) should email David and ask him if there were any environmental conditions different between those two tests that could explain the difference. And if not, maybe ask him to try to explain why two nearly identical projectors would have such a high difference in lumens output.
> 
> I'll hunt around my local area and if I can find someone with a 5040 or 6040 I'll bring my 6050 projector over and we compare side by side.



Guys, let me try to clear up some of the confusion. 



- David measures with a Minolta T10 luminance meter that we know from comparison with other known devices appears to be calibrated "close enough" to not offer any meaningful difference from truth. Also, as some of you know, the ANSI lumen measurements we conduct account for image size and are taken in a dark room with the sensor directly facing the lens, so screen materials are never involved. David is extremely capable and has, at this point, measured lumens on hundreds of projectors. If I had to take a guess, I'd say he probably had an exceptional sample of the 5040UB. I had a second sample of that in my own studio for a while for a direct comparison with the 4010, (https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-4010-vs-5040.htm) and while I have no record of having measured it, it was not obviously brighter than the 4010 rated at a mere 100 lumens less. As a matter of practice, regardless of what any review says, no one should ever purchase a projector expecting their sample to exceed spec, and it's best to count on it coming in at least 10% below spec in real life (which I understand is the accepted manufacturing tolerance for ANSI lumen measurements). Or even lower; Epson is one of the few manufacturers that tends to meet the ANSI number regularly, and many others do not. 



- If you read our review page for the 5050UB, you'll see that it's a cover page that explains the projector's similarity to the 5050UBe and contains the link to my full review of that projector posted at https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm. If you go there and jump to the measurements at the end you'll see that the projector came in nearly perfectly on spec, a touch over 2600 lumens. I also use a Minolta T10 for my measurements. 



Hope that helps. 

--Rob Sabin, editor, ProjectorCentral


----------



## Pretorian

prophcy0 said:


> I've been doing some direct comparisons of movies by jumping between the standard and HDR versions via Plex, and the one that has had the most "WOW" factor so far has been Disney's Coco. Specifically, when they first arrive at the Land of the Dead. Also, since you're on the XB1X, I would try out Gears 5. The very first part of the intro level blew me away in terms of clarity and color/pop.


I dont get HDR when I play Xbox Games. The setting in Xbox says that it isnt supported, only Movies support HDR.
Should I change something on the Epson 9400? I have everything on Auto.


----------



## HTX^2steve

prophcy0 said:


> So, about the fan noise on these projectors. I still haven't gotten used to the audible hum that the fan makes, even in ECO and Medium power modes. I've tried to record a sample of the sound but no matter how I try to record it doesn't sound the same as it does in person. I would think I'm just being crazy by my wife still comments on the fan noise as well, and she's usually the last person to notice stuff like that.
> 
> I have also tried measuring the SPL level of the fan with a phone app + a Dayton iMM-6, but those results don't seem consistent or conclusive either.
> 
> Any tips on how to cheaply and accurately record the sound of the projector so I can post on here for feedback?


Looks like you will be building yourself a hush box.


----------



## Karthik Ramkumar

*HDR help with setup (Epson 5050UB - Sony STRDN1080 - 2019 Shield Tv Pro)*

This is my setup:
2019 Shield TV Pro -> Sony STR DN1080 -> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB (Connected with Monoprice 4 HDR 18gbps Certified Cables).

The issue I'm facing is that I do not see the "4k 60Hz HDR Ready" option under Display Resolution. I see "4k 24Hz HDR Ready", "1080p 60Hz HDR Ready" along with 4k 59Hz and 4k 60Hz. All the options that show up work fine without issues. But no 4k "60Hz HDR Ready option".

On the receiver's HDMI signal settings, there is an option to enabling "Enhanced HDMI" format. As per manual, that setting must be enabled for 4k 60p HDR. So, I tried flipping that setting on AVR. When I did that, I lost the display. The "HDMI" indicator on AVR front panel was toggling between "on" and "off". It seemed like the the devices were having trouble with the hdcp handshake and kept retrying. 

Now, I was able to get past this issue by setting the EDID HDMI setting on Projector to "normal" instead of expanded. But I still did not get the "4k 60Hz HDR Ready" option under "Display Resolution" on the Shield TV.

If I connect the Shield TV directly to Projector (with EDID set to expanded), I get all the supported HDR resolutions under "Display Resolution". But if I connect it through the AVR, I lose the HDR options for the top options.

What am I missing? Are "Epson Expanded EDID" and "Sony Enhanced HDMI" comparable settings? Should they both be enabled for 4k 60p HDR setting to show up under supported resolutions? If so, why am I unable to enable them both without losing the display.

Do any of you have the same setup? If so, can you please share your relevant settings?

Thank you,

Karthik


----------



## skylarlove1999

Karthik Ramkumar said:


> This is my setup:
> 
> 2019 Shield TV Pro -> Sony STR DN1080 -> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB (Connected with Monoprice 4 HDR 18gbps Certified Cables).
> 
> 
> 
> The issue I'm facing is that I do not see the "4k 60Hz HDR Ready" option under Display Resolution. I see "4k 24Hz HDR Ready", "1080p 60Hz HDR Ready" along with 4k 59Hz and 4k 60Hz. All the options that show up work fine without issues. But no 4k "60Hz HDR Ready option".
> 
> 
> 
> On the receiver's HDMI signal settings, there is an option to enabling "Enhanced HDMI" format. As per manual, that setting must be enabled for 4k 60p HDR. So, I tried flipping that setting on AVR. When I did that, I lost the display. The "HDMI" indicator on AVR front panel was toggling between "on" and "off". It seemed like the the devices were having trouble with the hdcp handshake and kept retrying.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I was able to get past this issue by setting the EDID HDMI setting on Projector to "normal" instead of expanded. But I still did not get the "4k 60Hz HDR Ready" option under "Display Resolution" on the Shield TV.
> 
> 
> 
> If I connect the Shield TV directly to Projector (with EDID set to expanded), I get all the supported HDR resolutions under "Display Resolution". But if I connect it through the AVR, I lose the HDR options for the top options.
> 
> 
> 
> What am I missing? Are "Epson Expanded EDID" and "Sony Enhanced HDMI" comparable settings? Should they both be enabled for 4k 60p HDR setting to show up under supported resolutions? If so, why am I unable to enable them both without losing the display.
> 
> 
> 
> Do any of you have the same setup? If so, can you please share your relevant settings?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> 
> Karthik


Sounds like a cable issue. Epson needs to be set to expanded. So does your Sony. How long is your cable run?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

Karthik Ramkumar said:


> This is my setup:
> 
> 2019 Shield TV Pro -> Sony STR DN1080 -> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB (Connected with Monoprice 4 HDR 18gbps Certified Cables).
> 
> 
> 
> The issue I'm facing is that I do not see the "4k 60Hz HDR Ready" option under Display Resolution. I see "4k 24Hz HDR Ready", "1080p 60Hz HDR Ready" along with 4k 59Hz and 4k 60Hz. All the options that show up work fine without issues. But no 4k "60Hz HDR Ready option".
> 
> 
> 
> On the receiver's HDMI signal settings, there is an option to enabling "Enhanced HDMI" format. As per manual, that setting must be enabled for 4k 60p HDR. So, I tried flipping that setting on AVR. When I did that, I lost the display. The "HDMI" indicator on AVR front panel was toggling between "on" and "off". It seemed like the the devices were having trouble with the hdcp handshake and kept retrying.
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I was able to get past this issue by setting the EDID HDMI setting on Projector to "normal" instead of expanded. But I still did not get the "4k 60Hz HDR Ready" option under "Display Resolution" on the Shield TV.
> 
> 
> 
> If I connect the Shield TV directly to Projector (with EDID set to expanded), I get all the supported HDR resolutions under "Display Resolution". But if I connect it through the AVR, I lose the HDR options for the top options.
> 
> 
> 
> What am I missing? Are "Epson Expanded EDID" and "Sony Enhanced HDMI" comparable settings? Should they both be enabled for 4k 60p HDR setting to show up under supported resolutions? If so, why am I unable to enable them both without losing the display.
> 
> 
> 
> Do any of you have the same setup? If so, can you please share your relevant settings?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> 
> Karthik


I sometimes find that after changing HDMI settings, a full restart of the source device is necessary to connect properly, try that once you have the reciever and projector set properly. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Karthik Ramkumar

skylarlove1999 said:


> Sounds like a cable issue. Epson needs to be set to expanded. So does your Sony. How long is your cable run?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Nvidia Shield -> AVR: Monoprice High Speed HDMI Cable - *6 Feet* - Black| Certified Premium, [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 36AWG, YUV, 4:4:4 - Ultra Slim Series
AVR -> Wall Plate A: Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - White - *6 Feet* | [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4
Wall Plate A -> Wall Plate B (in wall run): Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - White - *30 Feet* | [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4
Wall Plate B-> Epson Projector: Monoprice High Speed HDMI Cable - *6 Feet* - Black| Certified Premium, [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 36AWG, YUV, 4:4:4 - Ultra Slim Series

So, 48ft in total  . I have not tried Nvidia Shield -> Wall Plate A -> Wall Plate B -> Epson to see if that works. 

I know if I direct connect Nvidia Shield -> Epson, I get the 4k 60p HDR option under Display Settings. 

If Nvidia Shield -> Wall Plate A -> Wall Plate B -> Epson works and I still see the 4k 60p HDR option, then I think we can rule out hdmi cable length being a problem, right? I'll try that tonight.


----------



## jaredmwright

Karthik Ramkumar said:


> Nvidia Shield -> AVR: Monoprice High Speed HDMI Cable - *6 Feet* - Black| Certified Premium, [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 36AWG, YUV, 4:4:4 - Ultra Slim Series
> 
> AVR -> Wall Plate A: Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - White - *6 Feet* | [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4
> 
> Wall Plate A -> Wall Plate B (in wall run): Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - White - *30 Feet* | [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4
> 
> Wall Plate B-> Epson Projector: Monoprice High Speed HDMI Cable - *6 Feet* - Black| Certified Premium, [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 36AWG, YUV, 4:4:4 - Ultra Slim Series
> 
> 
> 
> So, 48ft in total  . I have not tried Nvidia Shield -> Wall Plate A -> Wall Plate B -> Epson to see if that works.
> 
> 
> 
> I know if I direct connect Nvidia Shield -> Epson, I get the 4k 60p HDR option under Display Settings.
> 
> 
> 
> If Nvidia Shield -> Wall Plate A -> Wall Plate B -> Epson works and I still see the 4k 60p HDR option, then I think we can rule out hdmi cable length being a problem, right? I'll try that tonight.


Each connection loses some signal, so that 48ft is actually going to have more signal loss than a direct run. Could be affecting it for sure. You may need a fiber cable on your longest run to mitigate.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Karthik Ramkumar said:


> Nvidia Shield -> AVR: Monoprice High Speed HDMI Cable - *6 Feet* - Black| Certified Premium, [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 36AWG, YUV, 4:4:4 - Ultra Slim Series
> 
> AVR -> Wall Plate A: Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - White - *6 Feet* | [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4
> 
> Wall Plate A -> Wall Plate B (in wall run): Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - White - *30 Feet* | [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4
> 
> Wall Plate B-> Epson Projector: Monoprice High Speed HDMI Cable - *6 Feet* - Black| Certified Premium, [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 36AWG, YUV, 4:4:4 - Ultra Slim Series
> 
> 
> 
> So, 48ft in total  . I have not tried Nvidia Shield -> Wall Plate A -> Wall Plate B -> Epson to see if that works.
> 
> 
> 
> I know if I direct connect Nvidia Shield -> Epson, I get the 4k 60p HDR option under Display Settings.
> 
> 
> 
> If Nvidia Shield -> Wall Plate A -> Wall Plate B -> Epson works and I still see the 4k 60p HDR option, then I think we can rule out hdmi cable length being a problem, right? I'll try that tonight.


Yes if you remove the AVR from your HDMI signal chain and you get 4K 60 HDR then it would point to the AVR. Honestly having two wall plates and a regular HDMI over 20 ft is not ideal for passing along a 4K/60FPS HDR signal. I would try setting the AVR to enhanced and the projector to Expanded and then unplug all cables completely and unplug all power in the chain, AVR, projector and Shield. Wait 2 minutes and then plug in power . Then reconnect cables last.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

@Karthik Ramkumar you unfortunately have to cough up a little more money and get yourself an Optical HDMI for the longest run. I wish retailers both high street and online actually informed customers that on lengths greater than 15ft it’s recommended to use an Optical HDMI to get 60HZ 4K HDR.

It’s annoyed to have to send $50 or more for a cable but it’s even more annoying to have to spend it after you have already spent money on a cable you thought would do the job.


----------



## FendersRule

I know that this has been discussed in prior pages, but it would take me hours to find it. I'm curious if there's any picture modes that you guys generally agree is best for HDR and SDR viewing.

Right now, I've been using digital cinema for everything. I'm just now starting to look more into making sure I have the best HDR settings.

I noticed when I was watching Predator UHD that the image was on the darker side. Interestingly though I was comparing this with the Predator Blu-ray (which is of a different transfer) and it was much brighter with the same settings.

It seems from my research that most people recommend "Natural" for SDR.

It seems that for HDR, it's mixed. Some say that Digital Cinema is more accurate, but limits the light output, therefor assuming not really providing any pop that you'd expect for HDR. Others basically create another "natural" preset for HDR that's for the best brightness.

BTW, how would I go about calibrating for HDR content on the Xbox One? I'm assuming the AVS calibration disc will not work for that.


----------



## Luminated67

FendersRule said:


> I know that this has been discussed in prior pages, but it would take me hours to find it. I'm curious if there's any picture modes that you guys generally agree is best for HDR and SDR viewing.
> 
> Right now, I've been using digital cinema for everything. I'm just now starting to look more into making sure I have the best HDR settings.
> 
> I noticed when I was watching Predator UHD that the image was on the darker side. Interestingly though I was comparing this with the Predator Blu-ray (which is of a different transfer) and it was much brighter with the same settings.
> 
> It seems from my research that most people recommend "Natural" for SDR.
> 
> It seems that for HDR, it's mixed. Some say that Digital Cinema is more accurate, but limits the light output, therefor assuming not really providing any pop that you'd expect for HDR. Others basically create another "natural" preset for HDR that's for the best brightness.
> 
> BTW, how would I go about calibrating for HDR content on the Xbox One? I'm assuming the AVS calibration disc will not work for that.


With HDR have you tried adjusting the HDR slider, in default it’s set at 8 but you can adjust it anywhere between 1 and 15 to find the right balance that suits you.

Not sure how good an XBox handles HDR but the Panasonic BR players seem to be decent.


----------



## pete ramberg

*Epson 5050UB sales versus Sony 295ES*

I talked to a Best Buy Magnolia sales guy I know today. They have the 5050UB and Sony 295ES next to each other and can do an "a/b" comparison between the two projectors on a 100" 16:9 screen. I used it to compare the projectors when I bought the 5050UB a while back.

He said that the Sony 295ES (a true 4K) outsells the Epson 5050UB by a long shot - said the selling point is more 4K material available now.

I thought that was pretty interesting.

We Epson fanboys are either blind - or stupid..


----------



## wookiegr

It's easier to push a Sony on a dinky 100" screen from probably 12'-15' away. My screen will be around 158" diagonal with a 20' throw distance. Like to see Sony match the Epson 5050 in that environment at the same price.


----------



## pete ramberg

Right. Also, when I was there, I heard a sales guy pitch the Sony: "This one is 4k, the Epson isn't"...

I thought: "yeah, but what do your EYES tell you?"

I must be going blind.







wookiegr said:


> It's easier to push a Sony on a dinky 100" screen from probably 12'-15' away. My screen will be around 158" diagonal with a 20' throw distance. Like to see Sony match the Epson 5050 in that environment at the same price.


----------



## jaredmwright

wookiegr said:


> It's easier to push a Sony on a dinky 100" screen from probably 12'-15' away. My screen will be around 158" diagonal with a 20' throw distance. Like to see Sony match the Epson 5050 in that environment at the same price.


Same, I have a 175" screen and I like the extra light, especially in 3D. Now an A/B comparison in my own room would be interesting to see the difference. I also believe that a true 4K projector on a smaller screen when you sit close may in fact be to Sony's benefit being native 4K. So your mileage will vary as with anything.

I sit about 18' away from my screen, and it's hard to tell a difference between 4K and 1080P, I will say the image processing is much better on the 6050 vs my 5030 and having HDR support is nice even though it doesn't blow me away at least I can get all the latest audio and video options with Atmos since they are often tied together.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

I have a question for other 5050/6050 owners.

How long does it take for your projector to change modes when it detects HDR/SDR? Mine takes about 3-5 seconds and I am not sure if it is delayed due to my HDMI length and cable or normal duration.

It is annoying since the video is playing in the background while you wait for the video.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## wookiegr

pete ramberg said:


> Right. Also, when I was there, I heard a sales guy pitch the Sony: "This one is 4k, the Epson isn't"...
> 
> I thought: "yeah, but what do your EYES tell you?"
> 
> I must be going blind.


I don't own the projector yet so I can't say one way or another besides the hours upon hours of online research I've wasted so much time on regarding these projectors. General consesus is there's little to no resolution difference, colors may be a bight better but real vs faux 4K is the same at 100" using Blurays and not computer graphics. One store I went to only showed Game of Thrones on Bluray in 1080p on their 4K projectors proclaiming how their cheaper Sony was superior to the Epson 6050 as they looked the same. I do for a fact know that each time I've visited a brick and mortar to see these in action I am 100% of time pushed towards Sony. I also know for a fact that Sony offers an aggressive spiff program to sales associates. Having use to sell Xerox and Ricoh printers back in the day, you could earn between $50 - $300 depending on what model you sold. Not saying Sony is bad because we all they are damn fine projectors, the sad story is sales reps do whatever it takes to get their spiff incentive.


----------



## travis1041

jaredmwright said:


> I have a question for other 5050/6050 owners.
> 
> How long does it take for your projector to change modes when it detects HDR/SDR? Mine takes about 3-5 seconds and I am not sure if it is delayed due to my HDMI length and cable or normal duration.
> 
> It is annoying since the video is playing in the background while you wait for the video.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Does yours just show a black screen when you switch to and HDR video?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

travis1041 said:


> Does yours just show a black screen when you switch to and HDR video?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


Yes it goes black for a few seconds.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## pete ramberg

I got the impression that the sales guy was using "true 4K" as the selling point.I guess that for two grand more in price, the consumer that has the money will opt for the Sony.



wookiegr said:


> I don't own the projector yet so I can't say one way or another besides the hours upon hours of online research I've wasted so much time on regarding these projectors. General consesus is there's little to no resolution difference, colors may be a bight better but real vs faux 4K is the same at 100" using Blurays and not computer graphics. One store I went to only showed Game of Thrones on Bluray in 1080p on their 4K projectors proclaiming how their cheaper Sony was superior to the Epson 6050 as they looked the same. I do for a fact know that each time I've visited a brick and mortar to see these in action I am 100% of time pushed towards Sony. I also know for a fact that Sony offers an aggressive spiff program to sales associates. Having use to sell Xerox and Ricoh printers back in the day, you could earn between $50 - $300 depending on what model you sold. Not saying Sony is bad because we all they are damn fine projectors, the sad story is sales reps do whatever it takes to get their spiff incentive.


----------



## travis1041

jaredmwright said:


> Yes it goes black for a few seconds.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I think mine only goes dark when it switches frame rate. If I turn of the auto frame rate on my nvidia shield it dont do it anymore. If it's on it does take a few seconds to switch. 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


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## HTX^2steve

pete ramberg said:


> I got the impression that the sales guy was using "true 4K" as the selling point.I guess that for two grand more in price, the consumer that has the money will opt for the Sony.


I guess it depends on other factors like the room the projector will be going in...etc the sony is nice but way low on the brightness factor...I think the bang/buck the Epson is the winner.


----------



## Luminated67

wookiegr said:


> I don't own the projector yet so I can't say one way or another besides the hours upon hours of online research I've wasted so much time on regarding these projectors. General consesus is there's little to no resolution difference, colors may be a bight better but real vs faux 4K is the same at 100" using Blurays and not computer graphics. One store I went to only showed Game of Thrones on Bluray in 1080p on their 4K projectors proclaiming how their cheaper Sony was superior to the Epson 6050 as they looked the same. I do for a fact know that each time I've visited a brick and mortar to see these in action I am 100% of time pushed towards Sony. I also know for a fact that Sony offers an aggressive spiff program to sales associates. Having use to sell Xerox and Ricoh printers back in the day, you could earn between $50 - $300 depending on what model you sold. Not saying Sony is bad because we all they are damn fine projectors, the sad story is sales reps do whatever it takes to get their spiff incentive.


You will read here and on other forums how True 4K and Native 4K look much crisper and whilst this is indeed true the facts are you need to be sitting much closer than 1ft distance per 10” of screen diagonal to see it. A mate brought his Sony 360es to my home theatre and we compared both through a 4K splitter, you would think someone who had watched a native 4K projector for several months would be able to instantly notice the differences but the fact was he couldn’t see any difference, none of us present could and it was only until we reached within seven foot of my 100” screen that the tell tales signs of proper 4K showed.


----------



## Porknz

Was laughed at when I asked on the thread about my 4k player about using it to watch disney+. Was told to do it through my tv. Any hints on how to watch disney+? Can this projector do anything to help me? Gracias.


----------



## ckronengold

Bugging me.....

Is this what a new lens is supposed to look like? No, I haven't found any visible issues on screen.


----------



## FendersRule

ckronengold said:


> Bugging me.....
> 
> Is this what a new lens is supposed to look like? No, I haven't found any visible issues on screen.


They are all like that. Doesn’t mean anything.


----------



## Pretorian

How do I get my Xbox to show HDR when gaming on my 6050? It only works when I watch movies.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Now if your lens looked like this...then be concerned.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Bugging me.....
> 
> 
> 
> Is this what a new lens is supposed to look like? No, I haven't found any visible issues on screen.


Honestly that is about par for the course. You can always check projector hours instead of lamp hours by going into the service menu. I forget the buttons to click to get into the service menu. It is in this thread. Someplace. Lol. I think around post 3000. Sorry I can't remember. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## HTX^2steve

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...5044.html?highlight=service+menu#post58725044


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## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...5044.html?highlight=service+menu#post58725044


Thank you . Greatly appreciated. sequence for the service menu should be the same as on the 5040/6040: press Menu for 8 seconds then Esc twice.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## HTX^2steve

Ok...very pleased with what I am seeing so far with this projector. Now I want to amp the game up a bit. Here is a screen shot of the info of a movie I was watching. Could someone decipher what I am looking at? Is this quality? What should I be wanting to achieve?

Bonus points if you know what movie I am watching....


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> Ok...very pleased with what I am seeing so far with this projector. Now I want to amp the game up a bit. Here is a screen shot of the info of a movie I was watching. Could someone decipher what I am looking at? Is this quality? What should I be wanting to achieve?
> 
> 
> 
> Bonus points if you know what movie I am watching....


Scanning is best as progressive rather than interlaced. This is determined by the source content and your connection. Your input signal appears to not be using an HDMI connection. Are you connecting your input source directly to the projector or are you passing your source through an AVR?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> Ok...very pleased with what I am seeing so far with this projector. Now I want to amp the game up a bit. Here is a screen shot of the info of a movie I was watching. Could someone decipher what I am looking at? Is this quality? What should I be wanting to achieve?
> 
> 
> 
> Bonus points if you know what movie I am watching....


Star Wars the Force Awakens

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> Scanning is best as progressive rather than interlaced. This is determined by the source content and your connection. Your input signal appears to not be using an HDMI connection. Are you connecting your input source directly to the projector or are you passing your source through an AVR?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yea that is interesting why I am outputting interlaced rather than progressive...I am using a HTPC out of my video card via hdmi to the input of my receiver then output to projector.


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> star wars the force awakens
> 
> sent from my sm-g965u using tapatalk


mib 2


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> Ok...very pleased with what I am seeing so far with this projector. Now I want to amp the game up a bit. Here is a screen shot of the info of a movie I was watching. Could someone decipher what I am looking at? Is this quality? What should I be wanting to achieve?
> 
> 
> 
> Bonus points if you know what movie I am watching....


My guess is your pc is connected directly to your projector or through your AVR using a pc RGB connect cable. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

All hdmi through to the projector


----------



## HTX^2steve

I am going to do some more tests...I think it is something to do with MPC software and the information is pulling the computer stats not what is within the MPC output? if that makes any sense? I do have a sony uhd player and I will see if that displays different info which I think it will.


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> Yea that is interesting why I am outputting interlaced rather than progressive...I am using a HTPC out of my video card via hdmi to the input of my receiver then output to projector.


Unfortunately I do not know a ton about HTPC. So I don't know whether or not it is a setting in your PC or your AVR that is not transmitting the signal as HDMI and progressive. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

skylarlove1999 said:


> Unfortunately I do not know a ton about HTPC. So I don't know whether or not it is a setting in your PC or your AVR that is not transmitting the signal as HDMI and progressive.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes if you have Men In Black on Blu-ray I would try to put that into your UHD player and see what the projector information screen shows

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> I am going to do some more tests...I think it is something to do with MPC software and the information is pulling the computer stats not what is within the MPC output? if that makes any sense? I do have a sony uhd player and I will see if that displays different info which I think it will.


This is the Men in Black bluray through my UHD player upscaled by the UHD player to 4K.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

So lets take a quick look at this...so much to decipher for myself to research into each one deeper but yes from your picture that is what I was expecting to see. Progressive scan...23.97hz nice...sync info don't know that that is....color depth, if it were a uhd hdr disc would it say 10bit 4:4:4? and then the color format would say hdr as well? 

So much to learn....


----------



## FendersRule

Pretorian said:


> How do I get my Xbox to show HDR when gaming on my 6050? It only works when I watch movies.


I can maybe help.

First, it has to be an Xbox One X enhanced game. Check to make sure it is. 

Second, make sure your Xbox One X settings, which is a little tricky to get to, that 10-bit is enabled. It's on a drop down tab somewhere in settings, not only on the checkbox list.

Third, I don't know what reciever you have, but on the newer Denons, HDR/4k/60Hz (whatever this is called) is not on by default. I could easily see why to avoid any incompatibility issues. You'll need to check your receiver's video settings to make sure it is enabled. But of course, only after assuring everything in your chain supports all of these things.


----------



## FendersRule

Luminated67 said:


> With HDR have you tried adjusting the HDR slider, in default it’s set at 8 but you can adjust it anywhere between 1 and 15 to find the right balance that suits you.
> 
> Not sure how good an XBox handles HDR but the Panasonic BR players seem to be decent.


Thanks for this!

I went through and calibrated the Epson again using the Xbox One X, since the PS3 clips whites. I didn't have to make very many changes, just a couple tweaks. I calibrated nearly all the modes.

I cannot decide if I like Natural or Digital Cinema more. Slightly different color shift, but it's very slight and I really don't have any preference. I'll leave it on natural.

I popped Predator UHD back in, and this time moved the HDR slider from 8 to 2. It definitely created a brighter image that still looked "correct" without the over saturation. I still feel that HDR isn't really THAT meaningful/prevelant with Lion King (original) and Predator (UHD). I'm be curious to try this with new, modern movies. The predator's green blood still looked...toxic/neon green in both the BD and the UHD.

Lion King BD vs UHD looked basically the same. Colors have slightly more depth, but I felt like I had to really pay attention to find differences, and I had some bias because I "knew" of that. 

Predator UHD though is a great transfer, and it really shows off what a good 4k catalogue transfer is. I'd have a hard time believing that a real 4k projector could produce it any sharper!


----------



## shelly

biglen said:


> I'm using an Xfinity 4k box to stream Netflix, and the projector is set to Expanded.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Been some time since I posted but now have the 5050 feeding it direct from Roku Ultra with fiber optic cable. I've been reading through this thread and going on page 95 or so this problem. Using same 5050 settings as Biglen.

I am also getting 10 bit 4:2:0 with The Highwaymen. In fact only get same 10 bit reading from any netflix.

Still get great picture but wondering why I can't get 12 bit

The roku is set to stream highest quality.

Shelly


----------



## skylarlove1999

shelly said:


> Been some time since I posted but now have the 5050 feeding it direct from Roku Ultra with fiber optic cable. I've been reading through this thread and going on page 95 or so this problem. Using same 5050 settings as Biglen.
> 
> 
> 
> I am also getting 10 bit 4:2:0 with The Highwaymen. In fact only get same 10 bit reading from any netflix.
> 
> 
> 
> Still get great picture but wondering why I can't get 12 bit
> 
> 
> 
> The roku is set to stream highest quality.
> 
> 
> 
> Shelly


There is no content currently encoded in actual 12 bit for UHD. Some discs might read as 12 bit through a UHD player but the last two are "containers " not with any real color data. Think of them as empty luggage along for the ride. Here is an article of you wish to read further. If you just want to get the Roku to read 12 bit because you like seeing it go under

Advanced system settings> Advanced display settings> auto adjust display refresh rate>Enabled. This will increase your sync time when watching content, more blank screen with audio already playing

Under that same menu change the HDR subsampling to 4:2:2. This should accomplish what you want. You probably won't experience any change in picture quality.

https://www.dailydot.com/upstream/4k-sports-events-devices-espn-plus/

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

shelly said:


> Been some time since I posted but now have the 5050 feeding it direct from Roku Ultra with fiber optic cable. I've been reading through this thread and going on page 95 or so this problem. Using same 5050 settings as Biglen.
> 
> 
> 
> I am also getting 10 bit 4:2:0 with The Highwaymen. In fact only get same 10 bit reading from any netflix.
> 
> 
> 
> Still get great picture but wondering why I can't get 12 bit
> 
> 
> 
> The roku is set to stream highest quality.
> 
> 
> 
> Shelly


Here is a screenshot of my Roku ultra playing The Highwaymen on Netflix on my 6050 with those settings above I gave you.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## shelly

skylarlove1999 said:


> There is no content currently encoded in actual 12 bit for UHD. Some discs might read as 12 bit through a UHD player but the last two are "containers " not with any real color data. Think of them as empty luggage along for the ride. Here is an article of you wish to read further. If you just want to get the Roku to read 12 bit because you like seeing it go under
> 
> Advanced system settings> Advanced display settings> auto adjust display refresh rate>Enabled. This will increase your sync time when watching content, more blank screen with audio already playing
> 
> Under that same menu change the HDR subsampling to 4:2:2. This should accomplish what you want. You probably won't experience any change in picture quality.
> 
> https://www.dailydot.com/upstream/4k-sports-events-devices-espn-plus/
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Not really interested in numbers but much of this thread is about that at times. 

Just interested in video quality and audio. Picture quality of 5050 works for me.

This is my third pj after taking a 3 year run with flat screen. Good to be back.

Thanks for the useful info you have provided throughout this thread.

Shelly


----------



## skylarlove1999

shelly said:


> Not really interested in numbers but much of this thread is about that at times.
> 
> 
> 
> Just interested in video quality and audio. Picture quality of 5050 works for me.
> 
> 
> 
> This is my third pj after taking a 3 year run with flat screen. Good to be back.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the useful info you have provided throughout this thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Shelly


It certainly won't hurt anything to use those settings other than possibly having more of an HDMI sync delay. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

FendersRule said:


> I can maybe help.
> 
> First, it has to be an Xbox One X enhanced game. Check to make sure it is.
> 
> Second, make sure your Xbox One X settings, which is a little tricky to get to, that 10-bit is enabled. It's on a drop down tab somewhere in settings, not only on the checkbox list.
> 
> Third, I don't know what reciever you have, but on the newer Denons, HDR/4k/60Hz (whatever this is called) is not on by default. I could easily see why to avoid any incompatibility issues. You'll need to check your receiver's video settings to make sure it is enabled. But of course, only after assuring everything in your chain supports all of these things.


Thank you.

Yes on all of the above. Although since my Denon is of older kind I plug it in directly to my Epson and I use Toslink from X Box to the Denon for sound.

I am using an older and cheaper 10m long HDMI cable to the Epson. I wonder if that could be the problem?

From my Denon I use a real 15m optical HDMI cable when watching movies with my Dune HD 4k player as source.

I could just try to use the optical HDMI from my X to see if that is the problem.


----------



## Pretorian

How does the memory for the image settings work and how do you use it?

Movies are run through my older Denon receiver so that setting is calibrated for SDR 1080p content. I have that saved as "Memory 1".

When I watch movies through my Xbox One X I can get HDR and 4k. Should that be a different memory setting and do you manually change your memory depending on content?

For example... should I make one memory for "SDR 1080p" and one for "HDR 4k"?


----------



## Karthik Ramkumar

skylarlove1999 said:


> Sounds like a cable issue. Epson needs to be set to expanded. So does your Sony. How long is your cable run?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk





jaredmwright said:


> I sometimes find that after changing HDMI settings, a full restart of the source device is necessary to connect properly, try that once you have the reciever and projector set properly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk





jaredmwright said:


> Each connection loses some signal, so that 48ft is actually going to have more signal loss than a direct run. Could be affecting it for sure. You may need a fiber cable on your longest run to mitigate.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk





skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes if you remove the AVR from your HDMI signal chain and you get 4K 60 HDR then it would point to the AVR. Honestly having two wall plates and a regular HDMI over 20 ft is not ideal for passing along a 4K/60FPS HDR signal. I would try setting the AVR to enhanced and the projector to Expanded and then unplug all cables completely and unplug all power in the chain, AVR, projector and Shield. Wait 2 minutes and then plug in power . Then reconnect cables last.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk





Luminated67 said:


> @Karthik Ramkumar you unfortunately have to cough up a little more money and get yourself an Optical HDMI for the longest run. I wish retailers both high street and online actually informed customers that on lengths greater than 15ft it’s recommended to use an Optical HDMI to get 60HZ 4K HDR.
> 
> It’s annoyed to have to send $50 or more for a cable but it’s even more annoying to have to spend it after you have already spent money on a cable you thought would do the job.


So, it turns out the problem was the length of the HDMI cable between my AVR and the Projector. As mentioned before, I had about 48 feet of HDMI cable (and two HDMI keystone connectors) between Shield and Projector. I replaced the longest run (the 30ft in-wall cable between the two wall plates) with an HDMI Extender (Blackbird 4K HDBaseT Extender Kit 70m HDR 18Gbps HDCP 2.2 PoC RS232 and Bi Directional IR) and that fixed the issue. Now, all the resolutions come up as "HDR Ready" and "4K 60Hz HDR Ready" setting works smoothly without any issues. Thanks everyone who commented to help me get to the bottom of this.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Karthik Ramkumar said:


> So, it turns out the problem was the length of the HDMI cable between my AVR and the Projector. As mentioned before, I had about 48 feet of HDMI cable (and two HDMI keystone connectors) between Shield and Projector. I replaced the longest run (the 30ft in-wall cable between the two wall plates) with an HDMI Extender (Blackbird 4K HDBaseT Extender Kit 70m HDR 18Gbps HDCP 2.2 PoC RS232 and Bi Directional IR) and that fixed the issue. Now, all the resolutions come up as "HDR Ready" and "4K 60Hz HDR Ready" setting works smoothly without any issues. Thanks everyone who commented to help me get to the bottom of this.


Glad you resolved your issue. Always a great feeling fixing AV problems. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Can I stream something from my phone to my projector?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Can I stream something from my phone to my projector?


The projector itself has no streaming ability so you need to connect something to the projector in order to stream

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

skylarlove1999 said:


> The projector itself has no streaming ability so you need to connect something to the projector in order to stream
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Such as what? I had a firestick at one point and actually returned it because I thought from information I'd gotten on this thread it wouldn't do anything being plugged into the projector? What about the pana ub820 that I have it hooked up to?


----------



## jaredmwright

Porknz said:


> Such as what? I had a firestick at one point and actually returned it because I thought from information I'd gotten on this thread it wouldn't do anything being plugged into the projector? What about the pana ub820 that I have it hooked up to?


You can absolutely plug a Fire Stick into one of the projectors HDMI ports and it will work, but audio will be an issue if you don't have a receiver, if you do then it's no different than any other HDMI device.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Such as what? I had a firestick at one point and actually returned it because I thought from information I'd gotten on this thread it wouldn't do anything being plugged into the projector? What about the pana ub820 that I have it hooked up to?


You can plug a fire stick or the Panasonic directly into the projector but you won't have any sound. Do you have an audio/video receiver? Because for sound you will need one to connect to the projector. You connect your sources such as the Panasonic ub820 or the fire stick to the AVR and the AVR connects to the projector. You connect speakers to the AVR in order to get sound from your source devices.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

skylarlove1999 said:


> You can plug a fire stick or the Panasonic directly into the projector but you won't have any sound. Do you have an audio/video receiver? Because for sound you will need one to connect to the projector. You connect your sources such as the Panasonic ub820 or the fire stick to the AVR and the AVR connects to the projector. You connect speakers to the AVR in order to get sound from your source devices.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I have an old 5.1 setup with an old marantz receiver for sound. If I was able to figure out how to stream from my phone through the pana, is there any reason to get a firestick for the projector?


Thanks as always guys.


----------



## rekbones

Porknz said:


> I have an old 5.1 setup with an old marantz receiver for sound. If I was able to figure out how to stream from my phone through the pana, is there any reason to get a firestick for the projector?
> 
> 
> Thanks as always guys.


If the AVR does't support HDMI the cheapest solution is a HDMI switch that has OPT/analog out to extract the audio to legacy receivers. They are fairly inexpensive. Streaming media players like the FireTV, Roku, AppleTV and Shield are hard to beat. The former two fairly reasonably priced the latter too fairly expensive. The market is flooded with other Chinese brands but none are as fully supported by streaming providers as the four above. Of course up grading the AVR to one with 4K supported HDMI switching is by far the best overall solution as everything else is just a band-aide.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Woke up this morning and saw this. Had to share.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/star-w...lu-ray-only--best-buy/6393929.p?skuId=6393929









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys. I noticed something yesterday on my 5050 projector while watching a movie. I was watching Pet Semetary on a Roku from Vudu. It was 4K HDR and I did confirm on the projector that I was watching in 4k HDR. Something I saw that I guess I haven't really paid attention to before was discoloration in whites. For instance, a white shirt or white pillow case had different colored artifacts showing up. Mainly a greenish blue color. I was noticing alot during the movie to the point where it was bothersome. I'm wondering if that's normal on a 4k HDR stream or if there's something else going on. I can try to take pics if what I'm saying doesn't make sense. Thanks!

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> Hey guys. I noticed something yesterday on my 5050 projector while watching a movie. I was watching Pet Semetary on a Roku from Vudu. It was 4K HDR and I did confirm on the projector that I was watching in 4k HDR. Something I saw that I guess I haven't really paid attention to before was discoloration in whites. For instance, a white shirt or white pillow case had different colored artifacts showing up. Mainly a greenish blue color. I was noticing alot during the movie to the point where it was bothersome. I'm wondering if that's normal on a 4k HDR stream or if there's something else going on. I can try to take pics of what I'm saying doesn't make sense. Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Maybe buy the 4K disc and check the same scene. Then hook your disc player to tv and try same scene. I have not seen any white scenes with green discoloration in any content . Revenant has some good white backgrounds . Maybe check that 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Could not find this information, how much of the DCI P3 gamut can the 5040UB/HC4000 without the filter?


----------



## skylarlove1999

noob00224 said:


> Could not find this information, how much of the DCI P3 gamut can the 5040UB/HC4000 without the filter?


For the 5040 if I recall correctly it was around 90% with the filter in place and around 75% without the filter. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

skylarlove1999 said:


> For the 5040 if I recall correctly it was around 90% with the filter in place and around 75% without the filter.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Sorry I meant for the 5050/4010.

The only reference I found was from a review of the TW9300 (6040UB):
_However in Natural mode the filter is removed and the colour space is close to Rec.709 which is the native colour space for all TV broadcasting, _
https://www.avforums.com/review/epson-eh-tw9300-projector-review.13460

Has it stayed the same, 75% of DCI P3/112% REC.709?


----------



## skylarlove1999

noob00224 said:


> Sorry I meant for the 5050/4010.
> 
> The only reference I found was from a review of the TW9300 (6040UB):
> _However in Natural mode the filter is removed and the colour space is close to Rec.709 which is the native colour space for all TV broadcasting, _
> https://www.avforums.com/review/epson-eh-tw9300-projector-review.13460
> 
> Has it stayed the same, 75% of DCI P3/112% REC.709?


About 97% of DCI P3 with the filter in place using Digital Cinema mode and around 75-78% in Natural mode which does not have the filter in place. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

MMoser said:


> I had to turn off CEC controls in the Shield, and did the Epson off, 1sec delay, Epson off... in the activity settings on the Elite. Works every time now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Picking this back up because I'm still struggling.

The issue I'm having is with the master "power off" command for harmony. The individual activities seem to shut down OK, but the main "shut it all down" isn't turning off the projector. 

I use this with Google Home for "hey Google shut down the theater" in order to turn off all the equipment and the lights. 

Doesn't seem to be a way to edit the main Power Off built in activity.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

ckronengold said:


> Picking this back up because I'm still struggling.
> 
> The issue I'm having is with the master "power off" command for harmony. The individual activities seem to shut down OK, but the main "shut it all down" isn't turning off the projector.
> 
> I use this with Google Home for "hey Google shut down the theater" in order to turn off all the equipment and the lights.
> 
> Doesn't seem to be a way to edit the main Power Off built in activity.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


It is not very clear to find the setting in the Harmony app, but you need to adjust the setting for your projector device to turn off when not in use, sounds like you have it set to stay on in which case this symptom would apply. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

ckronengold said:


> MMoser said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had to turn off CEC controls in the Shield, and did the Epson off, 1sec delay, Epson off... in the activity settings on the Elite. Works every time now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Picking this back up because I'm still struggling.
> 
> The issue I'm having is with the master "power off" command for harmony. The individual activities seem to shut down OK, but the main "shut it all down" isn't turning off the projector.
> 
> I use this with Google Home for "hey Google shut down the theater" in order to turn off all the equipment and the lights.
> 
> Doesn't seem to be a way to edit the main Power Off built in activity.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I use a Harmony One with the default configuration for the activities. I had the same problem until I turned off the shutdown menu prompt in the Epson configuration, and then it shuts down reliably when the activity is ended (either using the power off button on the Harmony One, or switching activities to one that doesn't use the projector).


----------



## Adam Chace

*4K Enhancement not an option?*

Connected my Epson 5050ub via a brand new 15 foot high speed (Amazon's choice) cable to my Panasonic UHD DVD player and then separately to an AppleTV 4K.

The picture looks great and the info says 3840x2160 but I don't get the option for 4K enhancement (greyed out). Any ideas?


----------



## Danonano

Adam Chace said:


> Connected my Epson 5050ub via a brand new 15 foot high speed (Amazon's choice) cable to my Panasonic UHD DVD player and then separately to an AppleTV 4K.
> 
> The picture looks great and the info says 3840x2160 but I don't get the option for 4K enhancement (greyed out). Any ideas?


If you are sending a 4k signal to the PJ, then the 4k enhancement is forced on and greyed out as you can't change it. That's my undertstanding anyways.


----------



## jaredmwright

Danonano said:


> If you are sending a 4k signal to the PJ, then the 4k enhancement is forced on and greyed out as you can't change it. That's my undertstanding anyways.


That is correct, no reason to enhance a native 4k image. It is working properly. Only enhance non 4k inputs. It would be nice if they made it more clear. It is actually forced off, but does appear on. It is poorly implemented from a user experience.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Adam Chace

Danonano said:


> If you are sending a 4k signal to the PJ, then the 4k enhancement is forced on and greyed out as you can't change it. That's my undertstanding anyways.


OK thanks, I've had my understanding of this feature fuzzy. At first I thought it enhanced 4k images, then that it upscales. Even a direct Roku stick (no cable) has this greyed out so your explanation seems to make sense.


----------



## MMoser

jch2 said:


> I use a Harmony One with the default configuration for the activities. I had the same problem until I turned off the shutdown menu prompt in the Epson configuration, and then it shuts down reliably when the activity is ended (either using the power off button on the Harmony One, or switching activities to one that doesn't use the projector).


I'll echo what jch2 said and try going into the Epson HDMI settings to configure how it interacts, try pj>device. I have mine setup with a Marantz AVR and everything shuts down correctly with the Harmony using the off>delay>off setup on the remote. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Adam Chace said:


> OK thanks, I've had my understanding of this feature fuzzy. At first I thought it enhanced 4k images, then that it upscales. Even a direct Roku stick (no cable) has this greyed out so your explanation seems to make sense.


If you are sending the projector a 4K signal either proper 4K or upscaled from your source then 4K Enhancement is greyed out, this is perfectly normal and there is nothing wrong with either your setup or projector.

Personally I feel that the Epson's own upscaling is better than anything else I have used to upscale so unless it's proper 4K material I prefer to let the Epson do it.


----------



## ckronengold

jch2 said:


> I use a Harmony One with the default configuration for the activities. I had the same problem until I turned off the shutdown menu prompt in the Epson configuration, and then it shuts down reliably when the activity is ended (either using the power off button on the Harmony One, or switching activities to one that doesn't use the projector).


Thats what I'd have thought, too, but that didn't solve my problem with the 'master' shutoff. I created a separate activity just for powering on/off the projector, but realized that wasn't going to work because it wasn't going to be turned on unless I removed the projector from the rest of the activities. 

I also thought I might have had the master switch command backwards since you need to "turn on" the "off" button, but that didn't work either. 



MMoser said:


> I'll echo what jch2 said and try going into the Epson HDMI settings to configure how it interacts, try pj>device. I have mine setup with a Marantz AVR and everything shuts down correctly with the Harmony using the off>delay>off setup on the remote.


I turned off all the CEC stuff. I have a Marantz 7010, so I'm very interested in how you set up the commands. I didn't an "off" or "power" command when trying to add a command to the sequence.


----------



## FendersRule

Luminated67 said:


> Personally I feel that the Epson's own upscaling is better than anything else I have used to upscale so unless it's proper 4K material I prefer to let the Epson do it.


This certainly works, but I want to throw another opinion out there.

I actually didn't find any difference for upscaling using a very good 1080p Blu-ray transfer. Image Enhancement makes _way more of a difference_ than upscaling 1080p sources. I suppose one could do both...but I feel like I'm figgling with my image too much. I am of a "set it and forget it" mentality, I want a setting that works for anything and everything. The only thing I need to adjust in my environment is my subwoofer level, and that's normal. 

Why I don't upscale: I did found that upscaling created a softer image outside of Blu-rays--easily seen if there's text on the screen (PS3 home screen, Xbox One home screen, etc). All in all, I felt like upscaling didn't offer any visual benefits, but had a drawback with text sharpness. This is all stuff that depends on your setup, of course. I could imagine if your setup is monstrous enough to show a pixel grid with 1080p sources, then that's the only time I'd upscale all 1080p sources, but I'd wager that the vast amount of setups people aren't seeing a pixel grid from normal viewing distances with a 1080p output.

My point is to try things and find out what works in your environment. I'm also making a point to not just automatically upscale without doing an A/B comparison first. Image Enhancement is totally worth its weight in gold on these things.


----------



## DavidinGA

FendersRule said:


> This certainly works, but I want to throw another opinion out there.
> 
> 
> 
> I actually didn't find any difference for upscaling using a very good 1080p Blu-ray transfer. Image Enhancement makes _way more of a difference_ than upscaling 1080p sources. I suppose one could do both...but I feel like I'm figgling with my image too much. I am of a "set it and forget it" mentality, I want a setting that works for anything and everything. The only thing I need to adjust in my environment is my subwoofer level, and that's normal.
> 
> 
> 
> Why I don't upscale: I did found that upscaling created a softer image outside of Blu-rays--easily seen if there's text on the screen (PS3 home screen, Xbox One home screen, etc). All in all, I felt like upscaling didn't offer any visual benefits, but had a drawback with text sharpness. This is all stuff that depends on your setup, of course. I could imagine if your setup is monstrous enough to show a pixel grid with 1080p sources, then that's the only time I'd upscale all 1080p sources, but I'd wager that the vast amount of setups people aren't seeing a pixel grid from normal viewing distances with a 1080p output.
> 
> 
> 
> My point is to try things and find out what works in your environment. I'm also making a point to not just automatically upscale without doing an A/B comparison first. Image Enhancement is totally worth its weight in gold on these things.


The BEST up scaling is done via MadVR; hands down better than anything else out there. It's seriously amazing what it can do to a 1080 source. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rbk123 said:


> Any reason why you left out that you had a 5050 with problems which they gave you the 6050 as a replacement?


Nope. By your post there seems to be a tone of condemnation that I failed to mention it THIS TIME. I have mentioned it in this thread several other times. I have been more than transparent in my dealings with Epson. Thanks for asking.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rbk123

skylarlove1999 said:


> Nope. By your post there seems to be a tone of condemnation that I failed to mention it THIS TIME. I have mentioned it in this thread several other times. I have been more than transparent in my dealings with Epson. Thanks for asking.


Oh brother.


----------



## ckronengold

Got it straightened out with a combo of all of your suggestions, so THANK YOU @jaredmwright @jch2 and @MMoser.



jaredmwright said:


> It is not very clear to find the setting in the Harmony app, but you need to adjust the setting for your projector device to turn off when not in use, sounds like you have it set to stay on in which case this symptom would apply.


Oddly, I did have it set to Turn Off When Not in Use. I changed it to Keep On But Switch OFf when OFF Button is pressed. 



jch2 said:


> I use a Harmony One with the default configuration for the activities. I had the same problem until I turned off the shutdown menu prompt in the Epson configuration, and then it shuts down reliably when the activity is ended (either using the power off button on the Harmony One, or switching activities to one that doesn't use the projector).


Switched to get rid of the confirmation. Then went back into the Harmony App and changed the power settings to "Using a Single Button" and set it for "PowerOff" = 1s. 



MMoser said:


> I'll echo what jch2 said and try going into the Epson HDMI settings to configure how it interacts, try pj>device. I have mine setup with a Marantz AVR and everything shuts down correctly with the Harmony using the off>delay>off setup on the remote.


Turned off all the CEC in the projector, receiver, and all my devices. 

Hopefully this will continue to work and not be a one time fluke. I love using Google Assistant to "fire up the theater" and "shut down the theater" using the Harmony for my devices and my z-wave controller to set the lights. 

Thanks for the help and Happy Holidays to everyone.


----------



## skylarlove1999

ckronengold said:


> Got it straightened out with a combo of all of your suggestions, so THANK YOU @jaredmwright @jch2 and @MMoser.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oddly, I did have it set to Turn Off When Not in Use. I changed it to Keep On But Switch OFf when OFF Button is pressed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switched to get rid of the confirmation. Then went back into the Harmony App and changed the power settings to "Using a Single Button" and set it for "PowerOff" = 1s.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turned off all the CEC in the projector, receiver, and all my devices.
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully this will continue to work and not be a one time fluke. I love using Google Assistant to "fire up the theater" and "shut down the theater" using the Harmony for my devices and my z-wave controller to set the lights.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help and Happy Holidays to everyone.


Glad it worked out for you. Hope your projector is treating you well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

ckronengold said:


> Got it straightened out with a combo of all of your suggestions, so THANK YOU @jaredmwright @jch2 and @MMoser.
> 
> 
> 
> Oddly, I did have it set to Turn Off When Not in Use. I changed it to Keep On But Switch OFf when OFF Button is pressed.
> 
> 
> 
> Switched to get rid of the confirmation. Then went back into the Harmony App and changed the power settings to "Using a Single Button" and set it for "PowerOff" = 1s.
> 
> 
> 
> Turned off all the CEC in the projector, receiver, and all my devices.
> 
> Hopefully this will continue to work and not be a one time fluke. I love using Google Assistant to "fire up the theater" and "shut down the theater" using the Harmony for my devices and my z-wave controller to set the lights.
> 
> Thanks for the help and Happy Holidays to everyone.


Spoke to soon. I just don't get it. But this is clearly a Harmony issue, so I'm going to bother the folks over in that forum and spare the projector people any more of my remote drama.


----------



## jaredmwright

ckronengold said:


> Spoke to soon. I just don't get it. But this is clearly a Harmony issue, so I'm going to bother the folks over in that forum and spare the projector people any more of my remote drama.


Did you run an IR from your Harmony hub up to the projector for guaranteed signal or are you relying on the remote? I think you want the former option to power off, that is what I use without fail with multiple Epson projectors.

See my attached settings screen by screen to compare. 

Good luck.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

jaredmwright said:


> Did you run an IR from your Harmony hub up to the projector for guaranteed signal or are you relying on the remote? I think you want the former option to power off, that is what I use without fail with multiple Epson projectors.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I've got an IR blaster from the Harmony hub sitting on top of my rear speaker with direct line of sight to the projector. There's something funky going on. If I go into the projector's "device" menu, I can turn it on and off. And when I power on an activity (watch a movie), the projector powers on.


----------



## jaredmwright

ckronengold said:


> I've got an IR blaster from the Harmony hub sitting on top of my rear speaker with direct line of sight to the projector. There's something funky going on. If I go into the projector's "device" menu, I can turn it on and off. And when I power on an activity (watch a movie), the projector powers on.


See pics above I added, hope it helps.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

jaredmwright said:


> See pics above I added, hope it helps.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Appreciate the help, but the Harmony just isn't sending the command for some reason. As soon as I go into the menu and tap the "power off" button, it shuts right down.


----------



## ckronengold

jaredmwright said:


> See pics above I added, hope it helps.


So I changed the shut off sequence in the app to match yours. Didn't change anything. So then I went back to the physical remote and was hitting the "off" button. One press did the same thing. Everything shut down except the projector. 

When I hit the Power Off button the remote a second time, the projector shuts off. 

So I just added as second "power off" into my sequence and it seems to be working (this time, for now, fingers crossed). 

Needless to say, I blew my window to watch The Irishman trying to troubleshoot a remote so I could be lazier. Cruel irony.


----------



## biglen

@ckronengold I have a Harmony 650, and it turns on my 5050 100% of the time when I choose an activity. For some reason, powering it off, probably only works about 20% of the time. I can't figure out why it struggles to power off consistently. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

ckronengold said:


> So I changed the shut off sequence in the app to match yours. Didn't change anything. So then I went back to the physical remote and was hitting the "off" button. One press did the same thing. Everything shut down except the projector.
> 
> 
> 
> When I hit the Power Off button the remote a second time, the projector shuts off.
> 
> 
> 
> So I just added as second "power off" into my sequence and it seems to be working (this time, for now, fingers crossed).
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say, I blew my window to watch The Irishman trying to troubleshoot a remote so I could be lazier. Cruel irony.


At least the Irishman is short... just kidding. I am only half way through it myself. 

Glad to hear it seems to be working. What interface is that picture from on your post, Google Home? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

biglen said:


> @ckronengold I have a Harmony 650, and it turns on my 5050 100% of the time when I choose an activity. For some reason, powering it off, probably only works about 20% of the time. I can't figure out why it struggles to power off consistently.


Ok. Glad I'm not alone. Maybe I'll just give up on trying to solve this riddle.


----------



## biglen

ckronengold said:


> Ok. Glad I'm not alone. Maybe I'll just give up on trying to solve this riddle.


The frustrating part is that when I hit the Help button, it turns off. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

I have a Harmony One with no special activity configuration for the projector activities, previously an Epson 5050UB, and now an Epson 6050UB, a Niles MSU250 IR distribution block with two IR sensors, and an IR cable run over CAT 5e cable to the projector with the IR emitter stuck on the top of the rear IR receiver on the projector.

When I first started with either projector they wouldn't shut down. I turned off the shutdown menu prompt on both projectors and they have both shutdown flawlessly, when switching activities and when powering off.

Also somewhere in there I changed the key delay on the Harmony so it would take repeated up/down/left/right button presses faster without the long delay between each button press. I'm not sure if I did that before or after I turned off the shutdown prompt with the Epson menu.

If you have an IR distribution system, maybe place the emitter for it on the top of the rear IR sensor on the projector.

And I'll try to get a couple of screen grabs of my Harmony configuration and post here. I'm still using the old (unsupported) Harmony Remote Software version 7.7 on PC (green themed app), not the MyHarmony PC or Android app (blue themed app). I'm trying to migrate to the new software now, but having issues like the "Themes" setting for the Harmony One is missing from the MyHarmony app.


----------



## ckronengold

biglen said:


> The frustrating part is that when I hit the Help button, it turns off.


Well at least now you know what command to send!


----------



## rekbones

biglen said:


> The frustrating part is that when I hit the Help button, it turns off.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I believe all these power off issues are caused because when the projector is trying to an HDMI handshake it won't except any IR commands. If your AVR or any other HDMI source powers off before the projector it immediately tries to do a HDMI handshake lasting several seconds and it does't see the off command. I solved this in my ancient Harmony 890 remote by send the OFF command 6 or seven times. If you could set the power off sequence to always shut the projector off first it should solve a lot of issues.


----------



## Luminated67

Merry Christmas 

EVERYONE


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> Merry Christmas
> 
> 
> 
> EVERYONE


Merry Christmas to you as well and everyone else and happy holidays to everyone

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Merry Christmas guys!! Watched this Blu-Ray the other day, fantastic image. Calibrated by ChadB


----------



## skylarlove1999

CallingMrBenzo said:


> Merry Christmas guys!! Watched this Blu-Ray the other day, fantastic image. Calibrated by ChadB


Looks awesome. Thanks for sharing

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

skylarlove1999 said:


> Looks awesome. Thanks for sharing
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Thank you sir. Not enough good screen shots in this thread


----------



## ckronengold

jaredmwright said:


> At least the Irishman is short... just kidding. I am only half way through it myself.


Trying to finish it today. Wife took the kids for a Christmas playdate this morning, so I got an hour and half more under my belt. Hope to sneak in another hour during nap time. 



jaredmwright said:


> Glad to hear it seems to be working. What interface is that picture from on your post, Google Home?


That UI is from my Hubitat controller. I use that for my home automation, lights, doors (as triggers), etc. It has a Google Home integration, so I use Google Home for voice activation. In this case, when I say "Hey Google, shut down the theater" it kicks off a routine that (should) turn off the projector, raise the projector back into place (mine is on a motorized mount to lower it below the sofit), turn off all the equipment, start a timer to turn off the basement lights, and turns on the lights on the basement stairs. 

I have the same thing for warming up the theater. Dims the lights, lowers and turns on the projector, turns on all the equipment. Using a door sensor, the stairs lights don't go on when you open the door if the Harmony remote is running an activity that uses the projector (watch Roku, watch Shield, watch bluray). And I have it monitoring my Plex server and will turn a basement light on 10% when the movie is paused and 50% when its stopped. 

But thats all stuff for a different forum.


----------



## jaredmwright

ckronengold said:


> Trying to finish it today. Wife took the kids for a Christmas playdate this morning, so I got an hour and half more under my belt. Hope to sneak in another hour during nap time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That UI is from my Hubitat controller. I use that for my home automation, lights, doors (as triggers), etc. It has a Google Home integration, so I use Google Home for voice activation. In this case, when I say "Hey Google, shut down the theater" it kicks off a routine that (should) turn off the projector, raise the projector back into place (mine is on a motorized mount to lower it below the sofit), turn off all the equipment, start a timer to turn off the basement lights, and turns on the lights on the basement stairs.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same thing for warming up the theater. Dims the lights, lowers and turns on the projector, turns on all the equipment. Using a door sensor, the stairs lights don't go on when you open the door if the Harmony remote is running an activity that uses the projector (watch Roku, watch Shield, watch bluray). And I have it monitoring my Plex server and will turn a basement light on 10% when the movie is paused and 50% when its stopped.
> 
> 
> 
> But thats all stuff for a different forum.


Thanks, similar to what I do with Smart things but a little more advanced. Will look into extending my system to integrate this in the future.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Matmire

Welp, I got a nice Christmas gift today from my 5 month old 5050ub... a “lamp problem” error and a non functioning projector. We were happily watching Netflix when the image suddenly went dark and the lights started flashing away. Manual says lamp problem... Check bulb, check filter, unplug and try again. The filter is clean, the bulb appears to be fine, nothing burnt, no smells. Unplugged it for about 20 minutes and tried it again, but it won’t light up. It powers on and immediately goes back into the error state. This is my third or fourth epson projector over the years and each one has had to have warranty or service work done to repair them. When will I learn? Oh well, guess I’ll have to call epson in the morning. Merry Christmas.


----------



## Luminated67

Matmire said:


> Welp, I got a nice Christmas gift today from my 5 month old 5050ub... a “lamp problem” error and a non functioning projector. We were happily watching Netflix when the image suddenly went dark and the lights started flashing away. Manual says lamp problem... Check bulb, check filter, unplug and try again. The filter is clean, the bulb appears to be fine, nothing burnt, no smells. Unplugged it for about 20 minutes and tried it again, but it won’t light up. It powers on and immediately goes back into the error state. This is my third or fourth epson projector over the years and each one has had to have warranty or service work done to repair them. When will I learn? Oh well, guess I’ll have to call epson in the morning. Merry Christmas.


**** happens, it’s happened to mine after 32 days which put it out of the 30 days direct replacement policy. I must say that Epson IE collected and returned my PJ within 3 days and hasn’t missed a beat since.

On a different note, odd you have had several Epsons and you only become a member now to report an issue.


----------



## DavidinGA

Matmire said:


> Welp, I got a nice Christmas gift today from my 5 month old 5050ub... a “lamp problem” error and a non functioning projector. We were happily watching Netflix when the image suddenly went dark and the lights started flashing away. Manual says lamp problem... Check bulb, check filter, unplug and try again. The filter is clean, the bulb appears to be fine, nothing burnt, no smells. Unplugged it for about 20 minutes and tried it again, but it won’t light up. It powers on and immediately goes back into the error state. This is my third or fourth epson projector over the years and each one has had to have warranty or service work done to repair them. When will I learn? Oh well, guess I’ll have to call epson in the morning. Merry Christmas.


Did you try a new bulb? Easiest thing to try... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

Would anyone know if I took a black sharpie and colored the entire case to make it black, would that void the warranty? I dont see how it would, I just need some thoughts on that
Thanks


----------



## madermat

Ha if you had to send it in Iam not sure what they would do


----------



## skylarlove1999

mon2479 said:


> Would anyone know if I took a black sharpie and colored the entire case to make it black, would that void the warranty? I dont see how it would, I just need some thoughts on that
> Thanks


Build a hush box in black. Would greatly reduce noise and avoid any warranty issues by scribbling all over the projector with a black sharpie. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

mon2479 said:


> Would anyone know if I took a black sharpie and colored the entire case to make it black, would that void the warranty? I dont see how it would, I just need some thoughts on that
> Thanks


If I had more time when I first got my projector before putting it up, I would have made arrangements to bring it to a car body shop and get one of their guys that does the vinyl wraps for cars and have them black out my projector!


----------



## mon2479

Just contacted Epson about coloring the case black with a sharpie, basically ANY modifications done to the 5050 WILL VOID WARRANTY. If we do permanent modifications, they cant refurbish it to someone else in the future. Oh well, I guess it will be the focal point of my black hole.


----------



## HTX^2steve

mon2479 said:


> Just contacted Epson about coloring the case black with a sharpie, basically ANY modifications done to the 5050 WILL VOID WARRANTY. If we do permanent modifications, they cant refurbish it to someone else in the future. Oh well, I guess it will be the focal point of my black hole.


That is why if I was to do it the vinyl would be removable.


----------



## skylarlove1999

mon2479 said:


> Just contacted Epson about coloring the case black with a sharpie, basically ANY modifications done to the 5050 WILL VOID WARRANTY. If we do permanent modifications, they cant refurbish it to someone else in the future. Oh well, I guess it will be the focal point of my black hole.


I hope you asked to speak to their supervisor...

Any Customer service representative who could take that question seriously and provide an explanation as to why that would void the warranty deserves to be highly commended for their professionalism and self control of their laugh reflex.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> I hope you asked to speak to their supervisor...
> 
> Any Customer service representative who could take that question seriously and provide an explanation as to why that would void the warranty deserves to be highly commended for their professionalism and self control of their laugh reflex.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


If anything you would be doing a favor for the next person to own that projector!


----------



## MississippiMan

skylarlove1999 said:


> I hope you asked to speak to their supervisor...
> 
> Any Customer service representative who could take that question seriously and provide an explanation as to why that would void the warranty deserves to be highly commended for their professionalism and self control of their laugh reflex.



Here's a solution.......

Cover the Lens, Controls, Inputs and Air Vents.........and then hit the Case with a Black "Dip Your Car" coating. Stuff peels off when ya wanna......

What??? Hey.....better'n a Magic Marker !!!!!!! 








Oh damn....HTX^2steve already got there first with some similar crazy idea.


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> If anything you would be doing a favor for the next person to own that projector!


Plasti-dip or a good vinyl cover , I agree. If you opened your replacement 5050 projector and it was covered in black permanent marker I can't imagine you would be too pleased. I know I would not be.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> Plasti-dip or a good vinyl cover , I agree. If you opened your replacement 5050 projector and it was covered in black permanent marker I can't imagine you would be too pleased. I know I would not be.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 Would save me from buying like 50 markers and the time to do it!


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> Would save me from buying like 50 markers and the time to do it!


LOL 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MinHeadroom

Go like me and build a gigantic hush-box of doom!


----------



## DavidK442

MinHeadroom said:


> Go like me and build a gigantic hush-box of doom!


Do you have details on this?


----------



## skylarlove1999

MinHeadroom said:


> Go like me and build a gigantic hush-box of doom!


I bow to your craftsmanship. You are obviously a sorcerer. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> I bow to your craftsmanship. You are obviously a sorcerer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Are those leveling weights on top?


----------



## MinHeadroom

DavidK442 said:


> Do you have details on this?




I think i posted some pics about 2000 posts ago in this thread, but here you go (apologies Tapatalk always screws the order up).


----------



## skylarlove1999

MinHeadroom said:


> I think i posted some pics about 2000 posts ago in this thread, but here you go (apologies Tapatalk always screws the order up).


You are a wizard of technology and creativity. I am floored by the attention to detail in this design. The fact that this is just a hobby for you only makes it more impressive. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MinHeadroom

skylarlove1999 said:


> You are a wizard of technology and creativity. I am floored by the attention to detail in this design. The fact that this is just a hobby for you only makes it more impressive.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Wow, thank you! I spend most of my time on the dedicated home theater sub-forum, where my skills pale in comparison; seriously, crazy-good craftsmen over there.

I won’t lie though, I had to re-learn a little trig and MAYBE I might have Googled “how do silencers work.” True story; I had to make sure the air flow wasn’t just as loud as the projector, and I had to ensure the intake/exhaust channels didn’t simply amplify the fans. Note- it’s lined with an inch of linacoustic now, dropped fan-noise and air noise from 32db to 18db


----------



## skylarlove1999

MinHeadroom said:


> Wow, thank you! I spend most of my time on the dedicated home theater sub-forum, where my skills pale in comparison; seriously, crazy-good craftsmen over there.
> 
> I won’t lie though, I had to re-learn a little trig and MAYBE I might have Googled “how do silencers work.” True story; I had to make sure the air flow wasn’t just as loud as the projector, and I had to ensure the intake/exhaust channels didn’t simply amplify the fans. Note- it’s lined with an inch of linacoustic now, dropped fan-noise and air noise from 32db to 18db


Thank you for sharing. That really is an amazing drop in decibels. Don't sell yourself short. I love the slide in design like putting two pieces of a jigsaw puzzle together. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

*Xbox Problems*

Hey guys,

Been reading the forum about half way through. I 've seen this issue pop up but not sure what is going on with mine. Just installed the 5050 and Xbox was not throwing any signal. I have all green check marksf but when I try to select the resolution of 4K UHD nothing will come through. 1080p will. My projector is showing that the source is HDMI, but input signal is RGB-Video.

I hooked my 4k blu ray player directly into the hdmi no passthrough and it was showing input signal component but with 4k. 

5040ub took the 4k signal no problem. 

Any help here would be appreciated. I'm using Monoprice Cabernet Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI Cable - [email protected] HDR 18Gbps 26AWG YCbCr 4:4:4 CL2 35ft Black to go from 5050 to Marantanz 6011 and then to everything else.


----------



## SALadder22FF

Hey guys,

Been reading the forum about half way through. I 've seen this issue pop up but not sure what is going on with mine. Just installed the 5050 and Xbox was not throwing any signal. I have all green check marksf but when I try to select the resolution of 4K UHD nothing will come through. 1080p will. My projector is showing that the source is HDMI, but input signal is RGB-Video.

I hooked my 4k blu ray player directly into the hdmi no passthrough and it was showing input signal component but with 4k. 

5040ub took the 4k signal no problem. 

Any help here would be appreciated. I'm using Monoprice Cabernet Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI Cable - [email protected] HDR 18Gbps 26AWG YCbCr 4:4:4 CL2 35ft Black to go from 5050 to Marantanz 6011 and then to everything else.


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> 
> Been reading the forum about half way through. I 've seen this issue pop up but not sure what is going on with mine. Just installed the 5050 and Xbox was not throwing any signal. I have all green check marksf but when I try to select the resolution of 4K UHD nothing will come through. 1080p will. My projector is showing that the source is HDMI, but input signal is RGB-Video.
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked my 4k blu ray player directly into the hdmi no passthrough and it was showing input signal component but with 4k.
> 
> 
> 
> 5040ub took the 4k signal no problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Any help here would be appreciated. I'm using Monoprice Cabernet Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI Cable - [email protected] HDR 18Gbps 26AWG YCbCr 4:4:4 CL2 35ft Black to go from 5050 to Marantanz 6011 and then to everything else.


Do you have EDID set to expanded Signal>Advanced>EDID>Expanded



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Do you have EDID set to expanded Signal>Advanced>EDID>Expanded
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes it is on expanded. 

Just plugged in a Roku ultra 4k into another port on the marantz and am getting sound but no signal here either. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> Yes it is on expanded.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Image processing set to fine? My guess is either a setting in the AVR or the Xbox. Could be the cable. I know it is frustrating. Just have to keep trying each component in the HDMI chain to find the solution.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Image processing set to fine? My guess is either a setting in the AVR or the Xbox. Could be the cable. I know it is frustrating. Just have to keep trying each component in the HDMI chain to find the solution.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


So just hooked the Roku directly into the 5050 and am getting full 4k her 60hz...I guess j need to try the HDMI cable that I'm running and if that is fine I would have to assume it's the marantz

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> So just hooked the Roku directly into the 5050 and am getting full 4k her 60hz...I guess j need to try the HDMI cable that I'm running and if that is fine I would have to assume it's the marantz
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Under Video on the Marantz there should be 4K SIGNAL format . That needs to be set to Enhanced

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Under Video on the Marantz there should be 4K SIGNAL format . That needs to be set to Enhanced
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Couldn't get that far. Plugged the Roku directly into the HDMI cable and am getting no signal. Apparently the cable that states it can do 4k 60hz with HDR cannot...and that's why it's not letting me get a 4k signal from Xbox. Does it being 35ft have anything to do with this. I'm assuming it worked with the 5040ub because it wasn't pushing HDR only a 4k60 signal 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> Couldn't get that far. Plugged the Roku directly into the HDMI cable and am getting no signal. Apparently the cable that states it can do 4k 60hz with HDR cannot...and that's why it's not letting me get a 4k signal from Xbox. Does it being 35ft have anything to do with this. I'm assuming it worked with the 5040ub because it wasn't pushing HDR only a 4k60 signal
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Honestly anything 35ft and more you need a fiber optic HDMI cable. Some people have had success with Blue Jeans HDMI cable. Many people use this one.

https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-4K60H...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Honestly anything 35ft and more you need a fiber optic HDMI cable. Some people have had success with Blue Jeans HDMI cable. Many people use this one.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-4K60H...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yikes! That's a pricey cable right there. 

Looks like I'll be shopping again. 

Disappointing to not be able to fully use my new projector day 1 due to lies from manufacturer.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> Yikes! That's a pricey cable right there.
> 
> Looks like I'll be shopping again.
> 
> Disappointing to not be able to fully use my new projector day 1 due to lies from manufacturer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


That is peanuts compared to these LOL.

https://www.pixelgendesign.com/products/pxlglass8

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

So why was I able to receive a 4k HDR signal from my 5040ube with this same cable that is now not passing through the exact same setting on marantz Xbox etc.? What changed to not be able to use it would you all guess

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> So why was I able to receive a 4k HDR signal from my 5040ube with this same cable that is now not passing through the exact same setting on marantz Xbox etc.? What changed to not be able to use it would you all guess
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


5040 is only 4k/30 Hz 10gbps. 5050 is 4K/60Hz and 18gbps. Sound likes your cable supports up to 4k/30hz. That is my guess 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> 5040 is only 4k/30 Hz 10gbps. 5040 is 4K/60Hz and 18gbps. Sound likes your cable supports up to 4k/30hz. That is my guess
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Gotcha. I've actually been reading the forum from start to finish and just got to a post around 3500 where someone thought the exact cable I had was Opti and someone else, I believe you, had said he tried to use it and it did not work with 5050. This forum is a wealth of information.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

dr bill said:


> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...sil-uhd-hdr-benchmark-disc-discussion-17.html
> 
> 
> 
> As a novice, I am a little overwhelmed with everything it can do. So far, I have checked focus, brightness and contrast (in sdr). There's hours of other things to check, including some audio settings. Just scrated the surface so far...


3 months later how would you rate your experience and results. I'm considering getting this as it seems the much used settings here are dialed in for a batcave which I do not have. Any other users have success with this m

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Question, with probably not enough details to go with it. I purchased the 5050ub and the panasonic ub820 this fall. I have not seen this yet, but my wife and kids keep telling me that when they watch media, the screen occasionally goes out, while the audio keeps going and a few seconds later the picture pops back up again. Sometimes there seems to be what is maybe artifacting, as they will tell me a side of the screen gets messed up colors or something like that. I just went downstairs and they were watching a dvd on the ub820 and the picture did go out for about four seconds and then come back on. I have never seen this before in the time I've watched cable tv on it or in watching 4k movies. I think it's happened during netflix streaming and dvd's. Wondering if this sounds like anything you can diagnose or if it's a setting I need to change? Is it related to trying to get a dvd upscaled to 4k? Is it something with the projector? Something with the player? Audio keeps going and the picture comes back on at the right place, so I don't think it's 'buffering' or anything like that where the media stops. It seems to just be the picture.


Thanks for any ideas. I've saved up for ten years to finally have a projector, so I really don't want something that's not working correctly.


----------



## rekbones

Porknz said:


> Question, with probably not enough details to go with it. I purchased the 5050ub and the panasonic ub820 this fall. I have not seen this yet, but my wife and kids keep telling me that when they watch media, the screen occasionally goes out, while the audio keeps going and a few seconds later the picture pops back up again. Sometimes there seems to be what is maybe artifacting, as they will tell me a side of the screen gets messed up colors or something like that. I just went downstairs and they were watching a dvd on the ub820 and the picture did go out for about four seconds and then come back on. I have never seen this before in the time I've watched cable tv on it or in watching 4k movies. I think it's happened during netflix streaming and dvd's. Wondering if this sounds like anything you can diagnose or if it's a setting I need to change? Is it related to trying to get a dvd upscaled to 4k? Is it something with the projector? Something with the player? Audio keeps going and the picture comes back on at the right place, so I don't think it's 'buffering' or anything like that where the media stops. It seems to just be the picture.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any ideas. I've saved up for ten years to finally have a projector, so I really don't want something that's not working correctly.


This is the classic HDMI handshake issue. You have a week link in the HDMI chain and cables are the number 1 suspect.


----------



## Porknz

rekbones said:


> This is the classic HDMI handshake issue. You have a week link in the HDMI chain and cables are the number 1 suspect.


So what would I do to start figuring out the issue?


----------



## rekbones

Porknz said:


> So what would I do to start figuring out the issue?


Read through this thread and see what others are using for reliable HDMI cables.


----------



## Porknz

rekbones said:


> Read through this thread and see what others are using for reliable HDMI cables.


Okay. Thanks.


----------



## Porknz

I thought you might be linking something with cables that work. You are saying I should read through all 4,854 posts to find a cable that might work better than my cable in case it's my cable that is the issue?


----------



## Porknz

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG7C25W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


This is what I have currently.


----------



## kaotikr1

Porknz said:


> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG7C25W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> This is what I have currently.


What cables do you have going from your source to your av receiver?


----------



## DavidinGA

MinHeadroom said:


> Go like me and build a gigantic hush-box of doom!


Any particular reason you chose to keep the intake/exhaust on the front side of the pj vs running it out the back for instance? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Jersimon

*Compatible with older Marantz receiver?*

Greetings, newbie here

We just purchased a house with a home theater. Currently we have a Sharp XV-10000 projector which I’m looking to replace with the Epson 5050UB. The AV receiver is a Marantz model 6004 circa 2004. Will there be any issues connecting the new tech 5050ub to the old tech Marantz receiver? Ideally, I’d like to just run a new HDMI cable from the output of the receiver to the projector and have it work 😊, but the more I read, the more confused I get. I’m not looking to replace the AV receiver just yet.

Thanks in advance!
Jerry


----------



## MississippiMan

Jersimon said:


> Greetings, newbie here
> 
> We just purchased a house with a home theater. Currently we have a Sharp XV-10000 projector which I’m looking to replace with the Epson 5050UB. *The AV receiver is a Marantz model 6004 circa 2004*. Will there be any issues connecting the new tech 5050ub to the old tech Marantz receiver? Ideally, I’d like to just run a new HDMI cable from the output of the receiver to the projector and have it work 😊, but the more I read, the more confused I get. I’m not looking to replace the AV receiver just yet.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> Jerry


If that 6004 is the Stereo version, that Marantz does not have the necessary 4K UHD Switching capability, or even 4K Pass Through ability.
Marantz later made a SR6004 Surround Receiver around 2009. 

You can work around that issue by getting a relatively inexpensive 4K HDMI Switcher (choose carefully though...) and run your Certified 4K HDMI out of that to the display. You can then take FO or COAX audio off the signal sources and match them up with the Receiver's Input Mode designations.

A great many even prefer doing such because even some current Receivers can be glitchy switching 4K sources...resulting in extended sync times...or nothing coming through at all.


----------



## Porknz

kaotikr1 said:


> What cables do you have going from your source to your av receiver?



ub820 has the hdmi going to the projector and an optical out going to the receiver.


----------



## Luminated67

SALadder22FF said:


> Yikes! That's a pricey cable right there.
> 
> Looks like I'll be shopping again.
> 
> Disappointing to not be able to fully use my new projector day 1 due to lies from manufacturer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Most here in the UK are using this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07K...uumEHXQIBj7mgrU2Jyy4g&hsa_cr_id=4880672730801

I’ve been using a 10m (33ft) one for almost a year with zero issues and image quality is top notch.


----------



## MinHeadroom

DavidinGA said:


> Any particular reason you chose to keep the intake/exhaust on the front side of the pj vs running it out the back for instance?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




Yes, totally. The box recesses into an old window that now runs to a crawl space that is not well insulated. 1) I had concerns of heat/cold extremes in the crawl space causing condensation on the optical glass. 2) I can’t intake and exhaust on separate sides as the room will (hopefully) be airtight and 3) I had more concerns about theater noise getting into the crawl space than i did of getting pj noise into the theater. Hope this clears that up (took me forever to decide a strategy).


----------



## biglen

If anyone is looking for a reasonably priced cable for a long run, that works flawlessly, get the Series 3 Active. I experimented with a bunch of long HDMI cables, and that one came out on top performance wise. I'm using the Series 3 Active, 35ft. 

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Luminated67 said:


> Most here in the UK are using this one
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07K...uumEHXQIBj7mgrU2Jyy4g&hsa_cr_id=4880672730801
> 
> I’ve been using a 10m (33ft) one for almost a year with zero issues and image quality is top notch.



Can I just verify that is an atzebe? Interesting as I'm asking right now about some issues and being told it's my cable. It would be nice to see someone say it's the cable most people are using.


Thanks.


----------



## Jersimon

MississippiMan said:


> If that 6004 is the Stereo version, that Marantz does not have the necessary 4K UHD Switching capability, or even 4K Pass Through ability.
> Marantz later made a SR6004 Surround Receiver around 2009.


Thanks, sorry, it is the SR6004 AV receiver. The theater is currently setup with 7.1 sound and does have a a Marantz blu-ray player (BD7004), but we mainly use Apple TV 4 K to watch Netflix and Amazon Prime. If it’s just a simple swap out the Sharp for the Epson and run a new HDMI cable, I can probably handle that. 
Jerry


----------



## SALadder22FF

Luminated67 said:


> Most here in the UK are using this one
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07K...uumEHXQIBj7mgrU2Jyy4g&hsa_cr_id=4880672730801
> 
> 
> 
> I’ve been using a 10m (33ft) one for almost a year with zero issues and image quality is top notch.


This cable works with AV Receiver? I'm using Marantz 6011. Is it able to be fed through ceiling and back wall. I will need it to bend slightly for my purposes. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

SALadder22FF said:


> This cable works with AV Receiver? I'm using Marantz 6011. Is it able to be fed through ceiling and back wall. I will need it to bend slightly for my purposes.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


As with all optical cables a bit of care needs to be taken not to kink it but the actual cable itself is thinner than a regular HDMI of similar length so you should find it easier to feed through.

Oh and yes it works with your AVR.


----------



## SALadder22FF

This is coming from my DirecTV. Why is it showing BT 2020 and SDR?









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

Porknz said:


> Can I just verify that is an atzebe? Interesting as I'm asking right now about some issues and being told it's my cable. It would be nice to see someone say it's the cable most people are using.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


No one is telling you it's the cable. You have a week link in the HDMI chain so it could be anything. I know it's frustrating but the cable is "usually" the weakest link.


----------



## jch2

SALadder22FF said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly anything 35ft and more you need a fiber optic HDMI cable. Some people have had success with Blue Jeans HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I'll be shopping again.
> 
> Disappointing to not be able to fully use my new projector day 1 due to lies from manufacturer.
Click to expand...

The Monoprice Cabaret cable you use has an older Redmere chipset that passes 4k60 but only with HDMI 1.4 standards. So, it is technically not lie from the manufacturer. It was released before HDMI 2.0 standard was settled and chips were available. The HDMI 1.4 is what is causing your issues. There are posts all over with information about this, all you have to do is search the forums.

Redmere became Spectra7, and those chipsets do work with HDMI 2.0.

If you want to stick with copper cables instead of hybrid fiber cables you can get a Blue Jeans Cable (BJC) Series 3A active cable. It's been recommended many times on this thread. They make great cables and are very reliable. However, they are thick and not very flexible, so not good for any runs where you need to have any tight turns.

There are also a whole slew of hybrid fiber cables available, from about $50 and up. They are thin and flexible, but also easily damaged when pulling them. Some are more reliable than others. You'll see some posts on this thread about people having issues with some of the less expensive ones.

I evaluated the BJC Series 3A 40' active copper cable ($70), the MavisLink 50' active hybrid fiber cable ($60), and the RUIPRO 50' active hybrid fiber cable ($160), as well as some others that didn't work. Those three all worked. My installer and I chose the BJC because it was more rugged and would likely not get damaged when we pulled through the ceiling to the projector.

You can use you old cable and get by for now with lower bandwidth modes. Just set the Signal->Advanced->EDID to Normal instead of Expanded and it will limit the modes your 5050 will work in to be just like your 5040 did. You can use that setting until you upgrade your cable.

Hope that helps.

-J.C.


----------



## Porknz

rekbones said:


> No one is telling you it's the cable. You have a week link in the HDMI chain so it could be anything. I know it's frustrating but the cable is "usually" the weakest link.



What else do you include in the hdmi chain?


Thanks.


----------



## jch2

Porknz said:


> rekbones said:
> 
> 
> 
> No one is telling you it's the cable. You have a week link in the HDMI chain so it could be anything. I know it's frustrating but the cable is "usually" the weakest link.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What else do you include in the hdmi chain?
> 
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

If you are using the ATZEBE hybrid fiber cable, it is likely the culprit. That's one of the cheaper 4k 18gbps hybrid fiber cables, if not the cheapest one. You can always open an issue with wherever you bought it (or with the cable manufacturer) and get a replacement and test that. Or just get a different brand cable (or two) from Amazon with free 30-day returns and try them out for a week or two before pulling one through to your projector and returning the other(s).

When I was troubleshooting high bandwidth HDMI issues I had four different 40-50' HDMI cables strung across my room for a week temporarily while I tested. I wanted to make sure I had a good cable before pulling it through the wallls and ceiling. Testing a different cable to the projector is the best option, it is the least expensive and easiest thing to swap out. I eventually settled on a Blue Jeans Cable Series 3A 40' active copper cable. The RUIPRO and MavisLink active hybrid fiber cables also worked, but my installer wanted to pull the BJC copper cable instead of a fiber cable because the BJC cable was thicker and sturdier. He has had issues with the hybrid fiber cables being damaged after being pulled through. They are delicate.

However, it might not be your long active cable that is the problem. HDMI is a miserable standard. The problem could also be anything else in your HDMI signal chain. Assuming you connect your source through an AVR with an HDMI cable, and then from the AVR to the projector with a long active HDMI cable, the HDMI signal chain includes: your source device, the short HDMI cable to your AVR, your AVR, the long active HDMI cable to your projector, and the projector itself. Any one of those can be the issue, but the most likely culprit is the long active HDMI cable, and that's the easiest thing to buy another one of and test with. But also test another short HDMI cable between your source and AVR (make sure to use a Premium Certified cable for that run), as it is the second most likely thing to cause a problem.

Hope that helps. Good luck!


----------



## Luminated67

Porknz said:


> What else do you include in the hdmi chain?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Unfortunately there's a chance that your optical HDMI is damage, I have had a little experience running fibre throughout the new house I built so know the problems and how easy damage can occur. It's always best to check the cable is working prior to install as I have even seen new cables damaged on delivery.

If you have to feed it through existing ducting then best get a pro to do it. What's the size of the ducting used and are the joints tight 90 degree ones?


----------



## HTX^2steve

Last night showed my newly designed theater to my neighborhood patrons and the movie they wanted to see was a transformer movie: The Last Knight. Which I never saw before either and holy moly was that movie awesome with active surrounds, crazy bass and the 5050ub made that move look gorgeous! I would highly recommend adding masking to your screen if you haven't already because it does make the image of the 5050UB pop! If you haven't seen it...I recommend the movie also.


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> This is coming from my DirecTV. Why is it showing BT 2020 and SDR?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


In the projector menu under signal what do you have the dynamic range set to? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dr bill

SALadder22FF said:


> 3 months later how would you rate your experience and results. I'm considering getting this as it seems the much used settings here are dialed in for a batcave which I do not have. Any other users have success with this m
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


To be honest, I haven't used the disk again since my initial settings, and since then, I've had to replace my 5050. As the replacement is brand new, I have not used the disk yet to set it up.


----------



## Biggydeen

Been looking for weeks to fix my washed out blacks on my 6050UB. Blacks look grey. Was running with brightness of 40 to get some blacks back... Finally found the problem. 

My source is a PC. Sometimes i'm doing some gaming on the Epson. After many hours of raeding on the subject I came to the conclusion that it's best to use 8bit RGB full when using the PC (gaming) and YCbCr420 or 422 10bit for movies. Although, some people also recommend to use RGB when watching movie in Windows. 

So the problem was, I switched multiple times between RGB and YCbCR. Just to see if I could spot any difference in quality. YCbCR can only be run in limited mode, while RGB can run in full mode. But the Epson can also run in full and limited mode (also auto mode). I have set the mode on the Epson on full but never changed it back when using YCbCr in Windows. So the pc was running limited while the Epson was running in full mode. Causing washed out blacks and overal color degration.

I won't start the discussion about YCbCR vs RGB but what are you using when the Epson is hooked up to a PC? Seems daunting to switch each time when alternating between movies and gaming. On the Epson you could use the auto setting. But in Windows you still need to change it everytime. I'm also wonderding how consoles handle this? Do they auto detect the best settings when gaming and watching movies?

Besides this, when I select 10bit YCbCR in Windows the Epson detects 12 bit YCbCR. Anyone else experiencing this?


----------



## schmidtwi

SALadder22FF said:


> This is coming from my DirecTV. Why is it showing BT 2020 and SDR?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk





You're sending a 1280 x 720 SDR signal to the pj, so that's what it will indicate. Do you have a source that will output 4K HDR?


----------



## skylarlove1999

schmidtwi said:


> You're sending a 1280 x 720 SDR signal to the pj, so that's what it will indicate. Do you have a source that will output 4K HDR?


That is not what you should see when watching SDR content. You should not see 2020 when watching standard dynamic range content.

You should see BT709 or REC709 when watching standard dynamic range content. BT.2020 should be displayed when watching HDR content. Something isn't quite right in the OP's projector setup to see incorrect info of 2020 SDR. 

Most likely the dynamic range isn't set to auto and is instead set to HDR. Dynamic range should always be set to Auto so it allows the correct signal to pass through.

NOTE: the projector itself does not automatically switch to your preferred color mode when SDR/HDR content is detected you have to manually switch to the appropriate Color Mode. Here is an example of what the projector info should display when SDR content is detected and passed through.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Is there any sort of simple default action for the 5050ub? My buddy was over the other day and was trying to figure out how to stream mando on my projector without realizing the 5050ub doesn't have wifi. Once I came back in the room and told him to stream it though my ub820, it worked fine, but my ub820 isn't working right tonight (won't access the menu or netflix or do anything other than play a disk) and I'm concerned it might be because he was changing all kinds of things in the settings of the 5050ub in an attempt to stream his phone through it.


Thanks.


----------



## Porknz

Was able to figure it out. Reset the ub820 as well and I can access netflix again. Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Is there any sort of simple default action for the 5050ub? My buddy was over the other day and was trying to figure out how to stream mando on my projector without realizing the 5050ub doesn't have wifi. Once I came back in the room and told him to stream it though my ub820, it worked fine, but my ub820 isn't working right tonight (won't access the menu or netflix or do anything other than play a disk) and I'm concerned it might be because he was changing all kinds of things in the settings of the 5050ub in an attempt to stream his phone through it.
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Unfortunately Panasonic devices are notoriously bad for connecting to Netflix. Here is an article with some troubleshooting tips.

http://eng-ca.faq.panasonic.com/app...flix-or-netflix-videos-not-streaming-properly.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dilema

Biggydeen said:


> Been looking for weeks to fix my washed out blacks on my 6050UB. Blacks look grey. Was running with brightness of 40 to get some blacks back... Finally found the problem.
> 
> My source is a PC. Sometimes i'm doing some gaming on the Epson. After many hours of raeding on the subject I came to the conclusion that it's best to use 8bit RGB full when using the PC (gaming) and YCbCr420 or 422 10bit for movies. Although, some people also recommend to use RGB when watching movie in Windows.
> 
> So the problem was, I switched multiple times between RGB and YCbCR. Just to see if I could spot any difference in quality. YCbCR can only be run in limited mode, while RGB can run in full mode. But the Epson can also run in full and limited mode (also auto mode). I have set the mode on the Epson on full but never changed it back when using YCbCr in Windows. So the pc was running limited while the Epson was running in full mode. Causing washed out blacks and overal color degration.
> 
> I won't start the discussion about YCbCR vs RGB but what are you using when the Epson is hooked up to a PC? Seems daunting to switch each time when alternating between movies and gaming. On the Epson you could use the auto setting. But in Windows you still need to change it everytime. I'm also wonderding how consoles handle this? Do they auto detect the best settings when gaming and watching movies?
> 
> Besides this, when I select 10bit YCbCR in Windows the Epson detects 12 bit YCbCR. Anyone else experiencing this?


I am gaming on it and my colour is set YCR 4:4:4 for non hdr games and 4:2:2 12 bit for hdr games. I play all in 4K 50 or 60 fps dependending what my RTX is capable of. Setting herz adequately plus v sync. 

Movies always at 4:4:4 12bit 24 Hz. If movie is full HD only then I switch to such resolution on PC and let Epson enhance as it makes much better job than madvr upscaler to my eyes.


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> That is not what you should see when watching SDR content. You should not see 2020 when watching standard dynamic range content.
> 
> You should see BT709 or REC709 when watching standard dynamic range content. BT.2020 should be displayed when watching HDR content. Something isn't quite right in the OP's projector setup to see incorrect info of 2020 SDR.
> 
> Most likely the dynamic range isn't set to auto and is instead set to HDR. Dynamic range should always be set to Auto so it allows the correct signal to pass through.
> 
> NOTE: the projector itself does not automatically switch to your preferred color mode when SDR/HDR content is detected you have to manually switch to the appropriate Color Mode. Here is an example of what the projector info should display when SDR content is detected and passed through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I have confirmed the color space and dynamic range are set to Auto. Do I have to manually set color space to get this to properly read. It's only DirecTV so not too worried cause the image is usually crap anyways but just curious.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

I got the fiber optic cable from Atzebe and before running it I tested it out and it seems to be doing the trick. 

Xbox One X now gives 4k signal. Xbox enhanced game Borderlands 3 gives a 4k 60fps HDR signal with Atmos. Netflix does 4k HDR with Atmos. Amazon does 4k HDR with no Atmos sadly (Does anyone know a device that will do Atmos on Prime?). Youtube does 4k with no HDR or Atmos.

Why does the input show RGB-Video when 4k with no HDR and switches to component when HDR is available.

Also when I turn 4k enhancement on for DirecTV when I look at info it still shows 1280x720 Component. Should this be showing 3820?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> I have confirmed the color space and dynamic range are set to Auto. Do I have to manually set color space to get this to properly read. It's only DirecTV so not too worried cause the image is usually crap anyways but just curious.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Your cable/satellite box should/could have color space settings as well. See if it does and see if it has an Auto setting. Maybe the cable box is set manually to HDR or SDR.

You shouldn't have to set color space manually on the projector. I would switch back and forth between HDR AND SDR content on your streaming device plugged directly into the projector and observe what information appears on the color space line. Trying to determine if there is an issue with the projector.

If it displays the correct information when connected directly to the projector then the projector is not the issue. I would then connect your streaming device using the long HDMI cable that runs from your AVR into the projector. If that info displays as correct then the cable is not the issue. Plug the streaming device back into your AVR, plug your long HDMI back into the AVR and connect it to the projector and repeat the test. That will be to test the streaming device AVR and the HDMI cable connected to the projector all work correctly together. 

If you still get the correct color space repeat each of the steps with your cable/satellite box starting first by connecting cable/satellite box directly to the projector, so on and so forth. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> I got the fiber optic cable from Atzebe and before running it I tested it out and it seems to be doing the trick.
> 
> Xbox One X now gives 4k signal. Xbox enhanced game Borderlands 3 gives a 4k 60fps HDR signal with Atmos. Netflix does 4k HDR with Atmos. Amazon does 4k HDR with no Atmos sadly (Does anyone know a device that will do Atmos on Prime?). Youtube does 4k with no HDR or Atmos.
> 
> Why does the input show RGB-Video when 4k with no HDR and switches to component when HDR is available.
> 
> Also when I turn 4k enhancement on for DirecTV when I look at info it still shows 1280x720 Component. Should this be showing 3820?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Roku Ultra plays Prime with Atmos. I would turn off the 4k enhancement on the DirecTv box and just let your AVR do the upscaling or turn off the upscaling in both the DirecTV box and the AVR. Then the projector will do the upscaling itself. You can play around with the settings in all three and see what looks better to you. If the upscaler is shut off in the DirecTV box and in the AVR then whatever signal will pass through untouched, meaning no upscaling so the resolution line could be 1280 depending on what you are watching. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> I got the fiber optic cable from Atzebe and before running it I tested it out and it seems to be doing the trick.
> 
> Xbox One X now gives 4k signal. Xbox enhanced game Borderlands 3 gives a 4k 60fps HDR signal with Atmos. Netflix does 4k HDR with Atmos. Amazon does 4k HDR with no Atmos sadly (Does anyone know a device that will do Atmos on Prime?). Youtube does 4k with no HDR or Atmos.
> 
> Why does the input show RGB-Video when 4k with no HDR and switches to component when HDR is available.
> 
> Also when I turn 4k enhancement on for DirecTV when I look at info it still shows 1280x720 Component. Should this be showing 3820?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Are you running any of this through a home theater computer commonly referred to as HTPC? That is usually when you see that RGB info. Anything connected directly via HDMI generally will display as Component. RGB Video usually is something that displays when connected via an HTPC. Which source is displaying as RGB Video?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Are you running any of this through a home theater computer commonly referred to as HTPC? That is usually when you see that RGB info. Anything connected directly via HDMI generally will display as Component. RGB Video usually is something that displays when connected via an HTPC. Which source is displaying as RGB Video?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That is the Xbox One X menus. Before I go into the applications that can handle it. The home screen as well as YouTube home screen. 

I do have all enhancement features turned off so when I turned the 4k enhancement on the Epson I assumed that the info screen would read 3820, but it still showed 1080. 

I have not looked at the box. I need to check what I have it running at. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

SALadder22FF said:


> Amazon Prime Video does 4k HDR with no Atmos sadly (Does anyone know a device that will do Atmos on Prime?).


Apple TV 4k, nVidia Shield TV Pro 2019, and Fire TV Stick/Cube 4k do Amazon Prime Video with 4k HDR and Atmos. Be careful when testing Atmos with Jack Ryan (4k UHD): as S1E1 is not Atmos. Use S1E2 instead to test for Atmos. That little problem causes a lot of people to think their Amazon Prime Video does not do Atmos.



SALadder22FF said:


> Youtube does 4k with no HDR or Atmos.


YouTube on Fire TV 4k and Chromecast Ultra does 4k HDR. Those are the only devices that will do YouTube HDR (besides TV-based players). YouTube does not do Atmos. It doesn't even do DD 5.1. It accepts them as uploads an stores the track, but during playback it will be downmixed to 2 channels (L+R) or 3 channels (L+C+R). Even if the output is showing DD 5.1, the content for some of those channels will be empty. You will never hear surround channels from a YouTube video for example (unless you force YouTube to output 2ch stereo and then upmix it). So, you can't use YouTube videos for surround / immersive audio speaker tests.


----------



## SALadder22FF

jch2 said:


> Apple TV 4k, nVidia Shield TV Pro 2019, and Fire TV Stick/Cube 4k do Amazon Prime Video with 4k HDR and Atmos. Be careful when testing Atmos with Jack Ryan (4k UHD): as S1E1 is not Atmos. Use S1E2 instead to test for Atmos. That little problem causes a lot of people to think their Amazon Prime Video does not do Atmos.
> 
> 
> 
> YouTube on Fire TV 4k and Chromecast Ultra does 4k HDR. Those are the only devices that will do YouTube HDR (besides TV-based players). YouTube does not do Atmos. It doesn't even do DD 5.1. It accepts them as uploads an stores the track, but during playback it will be downmixed to 2 channels (L+R) or 3 channels (L+C+R). Even if the output is showing DD 5.1, the content for some of those channels will be empty. You will never hear surround channels from a YouTube video for example (unless you force YouTube to output 2ch stereo and then upmix it). So, you can't use YouTube videos for surround / immersive audio speaker tests.


Seems like there isn't ONE device than can so all the streaming services with EVERYTHING. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> That is the Xbox One X menus. Before I go into the applications that can handle it. The home screen as well as YouTube home screen.
> 
> I do have all enhancement features turned off so when I turned the 4k enhancement on the Epson I assumed that the info screen would read 3820, but it still showed 1080.
> 
> I have not looked at the box. I need to check what I have it running at.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The projector info screen displays what was being fed into the projector . When you feed it less than a 4k signal you have the option of upscaling to 4K. The projector defaults to upscaling to 4K. Even when you are using the projector to upscale to 4K you will see the original source resolution displayed. I let my AVR do the upscaling so the projector info line reads 3840 × 2160 for all sources since the AVR is doing the upscaling and the projector is being sent a 4k signal.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jch2 said:


> Apple TV 4k, nVidia Shield TV Pro 2019, and Fire TV Stick/Cube 4k do Amazon Prime Video with 4k HDR and Atmos. Be careful when testing Atmos with Jack Ryan (4k UHD): as S1E1 is not Atmos. Use S1E2 instead to test for Atmos. That little problem causes a lot of people to think their Amazon Prime Video does not do Atmos.
> 
> 
> 
> YouTube on Fire TV 4k and Chromecast Ultra does 4k HDR. Those are the only devices that will do YouTube HDR (besides TV-based players). YouTube does not do Atmos. It doesn't even do DD 5.1. It accepts them as uploads an stores the track, but during playback it will be downmixed to 2 channels (L+R) or 3 channels (L+C+R). Even if the output is showing DD 5.1, the content for some of those channels will be empty. You will never hear surround channels from a YouTube video for example (unless you force YouTube to output 2ch stereo and then upmix it). So, you can't use YouTube videos for surround / immersive audio speaker tests.


ROKU Ultra Does 4k HDR on Youtube as well. Good to know about Jack Ryan. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> The projector info screen displays what was being fed into the projector . When you feed it less than a 4k signal you have the option of upscaling to 4K. The projector defaults to upscaling to 4K. Even when you are using the projector to upscale to 4K you will see the original source resolution displayed. I let my AVR do the upscaling so the projector info line reads 3840 × 2160 for all sources since the AVR is doing the upscaling and the projector is being sent a 4k signal.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk





skylarlove1999 said:


> ROKU Ultra Does 4k HDR as well. Good to know about Jack Ryan.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Do you find that letting the AVR upscale does a better job with that function? I have a Marantz 6011 capable of doing this.

Roku Ultra 4K does Youtube 4k HDR as well as Prime 4K HDR Atmos? Might have to take that down off the selling site.

Found this chart from a Feb. Article if it helps anyone. Seems like Xbox is supposed to support Atmos on Amazon


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> Do you find that letting the AVR upscale does a better job with that function? I have a Marantz 6011 capable of doing this.
> 
> 
> 
> Roku Ultra 4K does Youtube 4k HDR as well as Prime 4K HDR Atmos? Might have to take that down off the selling site.


Yes to the Roku questions and yes to the upscaling. I have the Denon 6500 . I didn't see any difference between letting the projector do the upscaling versus receiver. Your experience could be different. Roku Ultra also allows for Disney + with Atmos. Sadly Roku Ultra does not support Atmos on Netflix. 

All the streaming devices seem to have these little side deals with the streaming companies so not one device covers 4K/60FPS/HDR/Atmos for all streaming services. I have found the Nvidia Shield comes closest but Atmos is not supported by Disney+ on the Shield. Yet.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## mat82284

SALadder22FF said:


> Yikes! That's a pricey cable right there.
> 
> Looks like I'll be shopping again.
> 
> Disappointing to not be able to fully use my new projector day 1 due to lies from manufacturer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Ouch $140 for a cable!

I use this one and it works perfectly fine!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753H3WZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## fredworld

Unless I turn on my Epson 5050UB I can't get sound from my Marantz AV7704 based audio sustem. Is there a specific setting or combination that's needed in the menu that enables audio without the projector on?

Marantz told me, "The receiver should be able to play without the display turned on, unless the display is sending HDMI signals while in 'standby' ". So, I disconnected the HDMI cable between the Marantz AV processor and the Epson, and audio started working. So, Marantz said that the projector is telling the AVprocessor that it is both on and off at the same time, which prevents the Marantz from properly playing back audio. I cannot find a setting in the Epson's menu to enable audio output from connected components. I've written to Epson but if anyione has any advice, I'm all ears.


----------



## SALadder22FF

mat82284 said:


> Ouch $140 for a cable!
> 
> I use this one and it works perfectly fine!
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753H3WZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Yes I went with a less expensive one as well. verified it works today.


----------



## jch2

fredworld said:


> Unless I turn on my Epson 5050UB I can't get sound from my Marantz AV7704 based audio sustem. Is there a specific setting or combination that's needed in the menu that enables audio without the projector on?
> 
> Marantz told me, "The receiver should be able to play without the display turned on, unless the display is sending HDMI signals while in 'standby' ". So, I disconnected the HDMI cable between the Marantz AV processor and the Epson, and audio started working. So, Marantz said that the projector is telling the AVprocessor that it is both on and off at the same time, which prevents the Marantz from properly playing back audio. I cannot find a setting in the Epson's menu to enable audio output from connected components. I've written to Epson but if anyione has any advice, I'm all ears.


If you are using an active HDMI cable to your projector, that fools most (all?) AVRs into thinking a display/sink that is in standby is actually active, and of course it will try and fail to sync to the projector. Both Yamaha and D+M AVRs have settings to toggle the HDMI Out 1 and HDMI Out 2 on and off. If you want to use a source without a video display/sync you'll have to disable the HDMI Out that is connected to the display with the active cable. Note, you don't have to also disable the out to a display connected with a passive cable: the AVR correctly recognizes a display in standby when connected with a passive cable. It's a limitation of the HDMI standard and/or AVRs and active cables.

Maybe someday the HDMI group will officially recognize, standardize, support, and certify active and/or long cables, especially since long HDMI cables cannot currently be certified and neither can active ones, and there isn't a single passive solution that work with HDMI high bandwidth modes over a long cable. Seems the HDMI group doesn't even care that projectors exist at the moment, and it causes those of us that own projectors a nearly unlimited amount of grief.


----------



## jch2

SALadder22FF said:


> Seems like there isn't ONE device than can so all the streaming services with EVERYTHING.


That is true, there isn't one device that does everything. The Roku Ulta, nVidia Shield TV 2019, and Fire TV 4k are close. The Apple TV 4k is closer. If the Apple TV 4k supported the Google VP9 Profile 2 and 3 codec and did YouTube at 4k HDR (it only does 1080p SDR) it would do everything (i.e. ATV4k does 4k DV (or HDR) and Dolby Atmos in all other apps that support it). The other three are close but have limitations in two or more apps.


----------



## fredworld

jch2 said:


> If you are using an active HDMI cable to your projector, that fools most (all?) AVRs into thinking a display/sink that is in standby is actually active, and of course it will try and fail to sync to the projector. Both Yamaha and D+M AVRs have settings to toggle the HDMI Out 1 and HDMI Out 2 on and off. If you want to use a source without a video display/sync you'll have to disable the HDMI Out that is connected to the display with the active cable. Note, you don't have to also disable the out to a display connected with a passive cable: the AVR correctly recognizes a display in standby when connected with a passive cable. It's a limitation of the HDMI standard and/or AVRs and active cables.
> 
> Maybe someday the HDMI group will officially recognize, standardize, support, and certify active and/or long cables, especially since long HDMI cables cannot currently be certified and neither can active ones, and there isn't a single passive solution that work with HDMI high bandwidth modes over a long cable. Seems the HDMI group doesn't even care that projectors exist at the moment, and it causes those of us that own projectors a nearly unlimited amount of grief.



Thanks. That's it. Selecting HDMI 2 Out on the Marantz AV7704 gets me audio only and a much simpler solution than pulling cables. I'm using a 35' active HDMI cable.


----------



## SALadder22FF

So I just turned to the to 4k channel on DirecTV and am getting 4k 60 with HDR or HLG over the air with my old cable that will not do it with the Xbox without dropout issues. What gives?









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> So I just turned to the to 4k channel on DirecTV and am getting 4k 60 with HDR or HLG over the air with my old cable that will not do it with the Xbox without dropout issues. What gives?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Not sure but that Sugar Bowl game will certainly make you feel better in true 4K with hlg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

SALadder22FF said:


> Yikes! That's a pricey cable right there.
> 
> Looks like I'll be shopping again.


I'm running this one with no problems. Half the price of the other one. I got it on a Lighting Deal for $10 cheaper, but its still a good place to start. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YGG68


----------



## SALadder22FF

ckronengold said:


> I'm running this one with no problems. Half the price of the other one. I got it on a Lighting Deal for $10 cheaper, but its still a good place to start.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YGG68


That's the one I purchased. It works great. Just haven't run it yet

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Not sure but that Sugar Bowl game will certainly make you feel better in true 4K with hlg
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yah it looks amazing. Just confused haha

Super Bowl LIV is being broadcast in 4k HDR on Fox as well this yeae6

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Hey guys

I have had my 5050 for 5 months or so now.

Initially i just used the settings from projector reviews and im now looking for more options as im not too happy with the picture quality.

Is there a list of posted calibrated settings somewhere ? I know each unit is different but im sure there is an average setting you could compile fro, the data, such as if all units favor red etc.


Furthermore i have never updated the firmware. Has anything worthwhile been added ?

Thanks so much in advance


----------



## fredworld

Chris Corcoran said:


> Hey guys
> 
> I have had my 5050 for 5 months or so now.
> 
> Initially i just used the settings from projector reviews and im now looking for more options as im not too happy with the picture quality.
> 
> Is there a list of posted calibrated settings somewhere ? I know each unit is different but im sure there is an average setting you could compile fro, the data, such as if all units favor red etc.
> 
> 
> Furthermore i have never updated the firmware. Has anything worthwhile been added ?
> 
> Thanks so much in advance



The latest firmware is 1.01. Check your Projector Info menu to see if it's up to date. Since your projector is only 5 months old, I'd be very surprised if it's not current. If it's not current, write to *Epson Support*.



Every unit will respond differently depending on ambient light (if any), room colors, screen size, throw distance and personal tastes. Consequently, the variables are many as one person's spot-on settings can be someone else's constant frustration.



The best investment I made in this near $3000 projector is the $40 I spent for the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc*. There is no substitute for a professional calibration but the Benchmark disc is an excellent tool for getting my projector's settings as right as possible without additional measuring equipment other than my eyeballs. After doing so, I felt no need for a professional calibration.
*Full Disclosure:* I have no financial interests in Spears and Munsil and am not affiliated with them in any way. Just a very happy customer.
I hope this helps.


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> Yah it looks amazing. Just confused haha
> 
> Super Bowl LIV is being broadcast in 4k HDR on Fox as well this yeae6
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


That is a beautiful picture. Yes Super Bowl will be amazing in 4k.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> That is a beautiful picture. Yes Super Bowl will be amazing in 4k.
> 
> Sent *from* my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Especially if the Chiefs are in it.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> Especially if the Chiefs are in it.


Ravens at home in January is going to be a tough out for anyone. Raven vs 49ers Super Bowl rematch. For your sake I hope I am wrong.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris Corcoran

fredworld said:


> Chris Corcoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> I have had my 5050 for 5 months or so now.
> 
> Initially i just used the settings from projector reviews and im now looking for more options as im not too happy with the picture quality.
> 
> Is there a list of posted calibrated settings somewhere ? I know each unit is different but im sure there is an average setting you could compile fro, the data, such as if all units favor red etc.
> 
> 
> Furthermore i have never updated the firmware. Has anything worthwhile been added ?
> 
> Thanks so much in advance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The latest firmware is 1.01. Check your Projector Info menu to see if it's up to date. Since your projector is only 5 months old, I'd be very surprised if it's not current. If it's not current, write to *Epson Support*.
> 
> 
> 
> Every unit will respond differently depending on ambient light (if any), room colors, screen size, throw distance and personal tastes. Consequently, the variables are many as one person's spot-on settings can be someone else's constant frustration.
> 
> 
> 
> The best investment I made in this near $3000 projector is the $40 I spent for the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc*. There is no substitute for a professional calibration but the Benchmark disc is an excellent tool for getting my projector's settings as right as possible without additional measuring equipment other than my eyeballs. After doing so, I felt no need for a professional calibration.
> *Full Disclosure:* I have no financial interests in Spears and Munsil and am not affiliated with them in any way. Just a very happy customer.
> I hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I was looking into this but I'm confused on how you can adjust the settings if there are no color filters ? How is hdr adjusted? Care to elaborate? Or is this disc mainly for black and white levels ?


----------



## fredworld

Chris Corcoran said:


> I was looking into this but I'm confused on how you can adjust the settings if there are no color filters ? How is hdr adjusted? Care to elaborate? Or is this disc mainly for black and white levels ?



Study the *FAQs information on their website* for a number of answers. You can write to them for a color filter if you need one. You adjust the display for SDR and then HDR springboards off that. Then make minor tweaks as you see fit. There's a dedicated S*pears and Munsil thread on this forum* for more information.


----------



## BIC2

On my Epson 6050, the Gamma options are 2, 1, 0 (default), -1, -2 or custom. Is there a chart that shows what translates to Gamma Correction Values of 2.2, 2.4 etc.? Thanks.


----------



## BIC2

Any thoughts on the cause of the horizontal white line on the bottom of the image falling off the bottom right corner of the screen? The other three perimeter lines look square. The center of screen is one inch to left of the Epson 6050 lens center. The screen is square & level. The Chief mount is level. Thanks.


----------



## WestCDA

BIC2 said:


> Any thoughts on the cause of the horizontal white line on the bottom of the image falling off the bottom right corner of the screen? The other three perimeter lines look square. The center of screen is one inch to left of the Epson 6050 lens center. The screen is square & level. The Chief mount is level. Thanks.


Square and level is good, but is the screen vertically plumb? I had to shim my screen to make it plumb, as the wall behind it is not - some wall studs were slightly bowed, and the framing was not shimmed to equalize them before the drywall was applied. That would disrupt your screen geometry.


----------



## BIC2

WestCDA said:


> Square and level is good, but is the screen vertically plumb? I had to shim my screen to make it plumb, as the wall behind it is not - some wall studs were slightly bowed, and the framing was not shimmed to equalize them before the drywall was applied. That would disrupt your screen geometry.


Could be. I did have to add a washer to the the hanging bracket on that side due to uneven wall.


----------



## Luminated67

fredworld said:


> The latest firmware is 1.01. Check your Projector Info menu to see if it's up to date. Since your projector is only 5 months old, I'd be very surprised if it's not current. If it's not current, write to *Epson Support*.
> 
> 
> 
> Every unit will respond differently depending on ambient light (if any), room colors, screen size, throw distance and personal tastes. Consequently, the variables are many as one person's spot-on settings can be someone else's constant frustration.
> 
> 
> 
> The best investment I made in this near $3000 projector is the $40 I spent for the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc*. There is no substitute for a professional calibration but the Benchmark disc is an excellent tool for getting my projector's settings as right as possible without additional measuring equipment other than my eyeballs. After doing so, I felt no need for a professional calibration.
> *Full Disclosure:* I have no financial interests in Spears and Munsil and am not affiliated with them in any way. Just a very happy customer.
> I hope this helps.


I also have the same disc but frankly there's still a world of difference between what I achieved and the results when it was professionally calibrated. For example have you adjusted the iris at all for SDR and where have you set the Gamma, likewise how did you adjust the grey scale and colours all things that were tweaked by the proper calibration.

The discs can help to minor adjustment to compensate for your room by balancing the brightness and contrast but I found it offered little else without the need to actual test equipment.


----------



## travis1041

Luminated67 said:


> I also have the same disc but frankly there's still a world of difference between what I achieved and the results when it was professionally calibrated. For example have you adjusted the iris at all for SDR and where have you set the Gamma, likewise how did you adjust the grey scale and colours all things that were tweaked by the proper calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> The discs can help to minor adjustment to compensate for your room by balancing the brightness and contrast but I found it offered little else without the need to actual test equipment.


Luminated67 in my never ending quest to calibrat my projector, I was wondering if your gamma is set on custom for HDR. I have seen a couple of calibration settings that have the gamma set to -2, projector central being one of them. I followed the steps off of the 5040/6040 HDR calibration thread and they all have a high gamma setting for HDR usually a custom curve.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Luminated67 said:


> I also have the same disc but frankly there's still a world of difference between what I achieved and the results when it was professionally calibrated. For example have you adjusted the iris at all for SDR and where have you set the Gamma, likewise how did you adjust the grey scale and colours all things that were tweaked by the proper calibration.
> 
> The discs can help to minor adjustment to compensate for your room by balancing the brightness and contrast but I found it offered little else without the need to actual test equipment.


It's an iterative process that requires patience. I've had projectors dating back to the CRT days in the 1990's. Adjusting a 3 color cathode ray projector with rows of dozens of pots for each color was a chore to say the least but the Joe Kane laser discs I used at the time got me where I wanted to be and the entire process taught me to be patient and not to try to do everything in one sitting. Tweaking up a digital projector is a breeze in comparison but it still takes time. 

Trying different Gamma settings with the PLUGE patterns and adjusting brightness and contrast, shifting to different IRIS settings and trying again are all part of the iterative process. As a lamp ages, adjustments are often needed. I found that the settings I had at 100 hours were different than what I obtained at 250 hours. There are over 700 hours on the lamp now and the image is still highly acceptable, so I guess for now it's stabilized but I'll check it again at 1000 hours.

I used the blue color filter that S&M sent me. Turns out it's the same one in their earlier edition SDR Benchmark disc. After color and geometry alignment I ended up with the projector as follows using a Panasonic DP-UB820 (set for projector luminance, all other video related settings are at Auto or normal), a 15 year old Stewart Firehawk 82" diagonal screen (which is a soft gray), a completely darkened room with no ambient light and a 35 foot Redmere Elite active HDMI 4k/60hz/18Gb/24awg certified cable connected through a Marantz AV7704 pre-pro in direct mode:
Digital Cinema

ECO mode, 

HIGH IRIS
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 25
Color: 44
Tint: 55
Sharpness: 10 (default)
Color Space: Auto
Dynamic Range: Auto
EDID: Expanded
Image Processing: Fine
HDR 10 Setting: 5 (varies from 4-6 depending on source material)
Gamma: 2
Lens Iris: 0
Color Temperature: 8
Skin Tone: 3

RGBCMY: 50 at all settings (default)
Image Enhancement: 3 (varies from 2-3 based on source material)

I have about a half dozen saved memory settings, for other sources as listed in my signature. For my Xfinity cable feed I use the above settings which according to my sports enthusiasts friends give a drop-dead gorgeous rendition of events. 


EDIT: Apparently, there are many variances with metadata which is why I adjusted my projector based on the 1000 nit patterns from the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc. Seemed like a relatively safe _set_ _and forget_.



My only criticisms about this projector are judder and the mild pumping in the HIGH IRIS mode and both seem largely based on source material. But at the projector's price point it's a compromise I can easily live with. The judder is no worse than my local Regal and AMC cinemas. The IRIS pumping is mostly noticeable on credits that fade to total black and similarly between scene transitions otherwise it's not noticeable. I have not ruled out a pro-calibration, I just don't feel the need for it. YMMV.

I hope this helps anyone who's had questions.


----------



## sirius_basterd

Anyone tried watching the Mandalorian on this projector? Even at night the picture was really quite dim no matter what I did.


----------



## DarrinH

*Anyone have input on glasses?*



momofx said:


> Is anyone using the SSG-3100GB 3D Glasses? I like that they cover the sides pretty well and go good over prescription glasses and was wondering if they would work well with the 5050UB.
> 
> 
> What other glasses are you guys using otherwise?



I just jumped into ownership of the 5050UB. Glasses suggestions??


----------



## jaredmwright

sirius_basterd said:


> Anyone tried watching the Mandalorian on this projector? Even at night the picture was really quite dim no matter what I did.


Yes, I have the HDR slider on 1 for this reason it is a very poor HDR show. There are articles about it and projectors make it worse due to lack of peak brightness. It is much brighter on my Samsung UHD but still not great. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## anilrao

sirius_basterd said:


> Anyone tried watching the Mandalorian on this projector? Even at night the picture was really quite dim no matter what I did.


The link below may provide some explanation of what is going on. As a result, I set my Apple TV4K to output SDR and turned OFF match dynamic range when watching Disney+. It looks much better but it is not HDR.


Star Wars in 4K HDR Dolby Vision on Disney Plus Analysis: Is It Fake HDR?


----------



## Robert Clark

jaredmwright said:


> Yes, I have the HDR slider on 1 for this reason it is a very poor HDR show. There are articles about it and projectors make it worse due to lack of peak brightness. It is much brighter on my Samsung UHD but still not great.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The Mandalorian HDR vs. say, The Witcher in HDR was quite a difference. Mandalorian was a pretty great show, but not visually distinctive.


----------



## DaGamePimp

sirius_basterd said:


> Anyone tried watching the Mandalorian on this projector? Even at night the picture was really quite dim no matter what I did.


I passed on the fake HDR and played it in SDR from a pc at 4K, the image was much better (not dim at all) versus trying to play it via any of my other playback methods (UHD player app, Fire stick 4K, ROKU, etc.).

- It looked proper when played back via my Sony TV's internal app. 

- Jason


----------



## Superman2

DaGamePimp said:


> I passed on the fake HDR and played it in SDR from a pc at 4K, the image was much better (not dim at all) versus trying to play it via any of my other playback methods (UHD player app, Fire stick 4K, ROKU, etc.).
> 
> 
> 
> - It looked proper when played back via my Sony TV's internal app.
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason




I do this with everything now, TVs included. HDR has become an incredible pain in the ars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Superman2

DarrinH said:


> I just jumped into ownership of the 5050UB. Glasses suggestions??




I’m using the ssg-3100 and 4100 Samsung’s, been working great with my ep4010 and finding them used on Kijiji /FB mktplace for like $10-$15 each. The 4100 are flimsy compared to the 3100, but the 4100 seem easier to find. I really like the 3100s. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## anothermib

Luminated67 said:


> I also have the same disc but frankly there's still a world of difference between what I achieved and the results when it was professionally calibrated. For example have you adjusted the iris at all for SDR and where have you set the Gamma, likewise how did you adjust the grey scale and colours all things that were tweaked by the proper calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> The discs can help to minor adjustment to compensate for your room by balancing the brightness and contrast but I found it offered little else without the need to actual test equipment.




Did anyone of you try calibrating with a (comparably cheap) colorimeter like the Spyder? Is there a substantial improvement compared to just using a calibration disk? Or is it not actually worth going down that path?


----------



## Porknz

jch2 said:


> If you are using the ATZEBE hybrid fiber cable, it is likely the culprit. That's one of the cheaper 4k 18gbps hybrid fiber cables, if not the cheapest one. You can always open an issue with wherever you bought it (or with the cable manufacturer) and get a replacement and test that. Or just get a different brand cable (or two) from Amazon with free 30-day returns and try them out for a week or two before pulling one through to your projector and returning the other(s).
> 
> When I was troubleshooting high bandwidth HDMI issues I had four different 40-50' HDMI cables strung across my room for a week temporarily while I tested. I wanted to make sure I had a good cable before pulling it through the wallls and ceiling. Testing a different cable to the projector is the best option, it is the least expensive and easiest thing to swap out. I eventually settled on a Blue Jeans Cable Series 3A 40' active copper cable. The RUIPRO and MavisLink active hybrid fiber cables also worked, but my installer wanted to pull the BJC copper cable instead of a fiber cable because the BJC cable was thicker and sturdier. He has had issues with the hybrid fiber cables being damaged after being pulled through. They are delicate.
> 
> However, it might not be your long active cable that is the problem. HDMI is a miserable standard. The problem could also be anything else in your HDMI signal chain. Assuming you connect your source through an AVR with an HDMI cable, and then from the AVR to the projector with a long active HDMI cable, the HDMI signal chain includes: your source device, the short HDMI cable to your AVR, your AVR, the long active HDMI cable to your projector, and the projector itself. Any one of those can be the issue, but the most likely culprit is the long active HDMI cable, and that's the easiest thing to buy another one of and test with. But also test another short HDMI cable between your source and AVR (make sure to use a Premium Certified cable for that run), as it is the second most likely thing to cause a problem.
> 
> Hope that helps. Good luck!



Thanks for the explanation on the hdmi chain.


My home theater setup is old, so I have an optical cable running from the receiver to the ub820 for audio. No issues with sound. It keeps going when I have the short picture drops. 
Any way for me to rule out the ub820 or the 5050ub? What I am noticing is that I watch in 4k, or cable tv. Haven't had any issues with either of those I don't think. The drops seem to only happen during netflix or when we watch a regular dvd. Does that point to anything? Is it an upconverting thing? Is it a bandwidth thing? Trying to figure as much out as I can before I try to spring for one of these ruipro cables as they are so costly and others on the thread repeatedly recommend the cable I have.


Thanks.


----------



## fredworld

DarrinH said:


> I just jumped into ownership of the 5050UB. Glasses suggestions??



I bought several pairs of *these glasses* in September '19. At that time there was a sale for $45 for the last 6 sets. Looks like they have restocked. They fit well over prescription glasses. The batteries are easily replaceable (haven't had to do so, yet) and are readily available.


----------



## BJ Broderick

Need help with setting up remote control of this projector in theater room. I have the Harmony Elite remote in a closet with all my other equipment i.e. receiver, Nvidia Shield, Blu-ray player etc. Will the IR sensor on the handheld remote (Remote is inside the theater room) just turn on the PJ when using Alexa or Hey Google? Does the 6050ub have Bluetooth control capability like the FireStick? Any help is really appreciated. Also, the PJ is too far from the equipment closet to run an IR blaster extended cable.


----------



## Luminated67

jch2 said:


> If you are using the ATZEBE hybrid fiber cable, it is likely the culprit. That's one of the cheaper 4k 18gbps hybrid fiber cables, if not the cheapest one. You can always open an issue with wherever you bought it (or with the cable manufacturer) and get a replacement and test that. Or just get a different brand cable (or two) from Amazon with free 30-day returns and try them out for a week or two before pulling one through to your projector and returning the other(s).


Now I can’t say I know a hell of a lot about how these things work but I have a mate who works for OpenReach which is British Telecoms installation division, according to him all these cables work identically, they either work or they don’t, reading between the lines he was basically saying you are wasting money paying more. I’ve been using the ATZEBE for one year now with zero issues.


----------



## jch2

Porknz said:


> My home theater setup is old, so I have an optical cable running from the receiver to the ub820 for audio. No issues with sound. It keeps going when I have the short picture drops.


That will work fine, except you won't get Dolby True HD or DTS HD Master Audio that way. There isn't enough bandwidth on an optical cable for those formats since they are uncompressed. If your AVR is new enough to have HDMI ports then you can use the UB820s second HDMI port and connect to your AVR for just audio (configure the second HDMI port for audio only). That will get you high-definition audio.



Porknz said:


> Any way for me to rule out the ub820 or the 5050ub?


Yes, but you will need to use multiple 4k HDR high bandwidth source devices with your existing cable (Apple TV 4k in 4k60 HDR 4:2:2, nVidia Shield TV 2019, Fire TV Stick 4k in 12-bit HDR, Roku Ultra) to try to see if any of them have issues. If other 4k devices show issues, then that rules out the UB820. And also, if you have a 4k HDR TV, try the UB820 with the existing (long) cable and the TV. If you see the same problems with the TV, it could be the UB820 or the cable.

I use a UB820, have had a 5050UB (now a 6050UB) and currently use a Blue Jeans Cable 40' Series 3A active copper cable.



Porknz said:


> What I am noticing is that I watch in 4k, or cable tv. Haven't had any issues with either of those I don't think. The drops seem to only happen during netflix or when we watch a regular dvd. Does that point to anything? Is it an upconverting thing? Is it a bandwidth thing? Trying to figure as much out as I can before I try to spring for one of these ruipro cables as they are so costly and others on the thread repeatedly recommend the cable I have.


What cable do you currently have (is it the ATZBEE)? Where did you purchase it (from Amazon)? When did you purchase it (within the last year)? If so, just contact Amazon and they can put you in touch with the cable manufacturer and they will most likely send you a replacement cable for free. Or, report it as defective to Amazon and they will ship you a replacement for free. You can try both and see if there is any difference.

The RUIPRO is expensive, yes. There are many other active hybrid fiber cables on Amazon like the MavisLink that work fine and are much less expensive than the RUIPRO. You may not get the same level of customer service from the other companies though (MavisLink never returned my Amazon inquiry or my email to support). The RUIPRRO is expensive because they provide excellent customer service. Amazon has free 30-day returns, so just get one of the less expensive cables and try it. If it doesn't solve your problem then you can rule out the cable and return it for free.


----------



## mat82284

Porknz said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you are using the ATZEBE hybrid fiber cable, it is likely the culprit. That's one of the cheaper 4k 18gbps hybrid fiber cables, if not the cheapest one. You can always open an issue with wherever you bought it (or with the cable manufacturer) and get a replacement and test that. Or just get a different brand cable (or two) from Amazon with free 30-day returns and try them out for a week or two before pulling one through to your projector and returning the other(s).
> 
> When I was troubleshooting high bandwidth HDMI issues I had four different 40-50' HDMI cables strung across my room for a week temporarily while I tested. I wanted to make sure I had a good cable before pulling it through the wallls and ceiling. Testing a different cable to the projector is the best option, it is the least expensive and easiest thing to swap out. I eventually settled on a Blue Jeans Cable Series 3A 40' active copper cable. The RUIPRO and MavisLink active hybrid fiber cables also worked, but my installer wanted to pull the BJC copper cable instead of a fiber cable because the BJC cable was thicker and sturdier. He has had issues with the hybrid fiber cables being damaged after being pulled through. They are delicate.
> 
> However, it might not be your long active cable that is the problem. HDMI is a miserable standard. The problem could also be anything else in your HDMI signal chain. Assuming you connect your source through an AVR with an HDMI cable, and then from the AVR to the projector with a long active HDMI cable, the HDMI signal chain includes: your source device, the short HDMI cable to your AVR, your AVR, the long active HDMI cable to your projector, and the projector itself. Any one of those can be the issue, but the most likely culprit is the long active HDMI cable, and that's the easiest thing to buy another one of and test with. But also test another short HDMI cable between your source and AVR (make sure to use a Premium Certified cable for that run), as it is the second most likely thing to cause a problem.
> 
> Hope that helps. Good luck!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the explanation on the hdmi chain.
> 
> 
> My home theater setup is old, so I have an optical cable running from the receiver to the ub820 for audio. No issues with sound. It keeps going when I have the short picture drops.
> Any way for me to rule out the ub820 or the 5050ub? What I am noticing is that I watch in 4k, or cable tv. Haven't had any issues with either of those I don't think. The drops seem to only happen during netflix or when we watch a regular dvd. Does that point to anything? Is it an upconverting thing? Is it a bandwidth thing? Trying to figure as much out as I can before I try to spring for one of these ruipro cables as they are so costly and others on the thread repeatedly recommend the cable I have.
> 
> 
> Thanks.
Click to expand...

I’m not sure your exact problem since I didn’t read this whole thread or own a 5050ub, but I do own a 5040ub and learned a lot over the last week about hdmi/picture dropping issues and don’t forget that the first thing you should always when troubleshooting is remove all the external parts as possible. 

Do this.

1) connect your media device directly to your projector with the hdmi cable your testing (and test different HDR/resolutions for your device). If your video doesn’t cut out anymore then move on to part 2 since it’s not the cord, projector, or your media device. If it still cuts out then swap hdmi cords, then try another media device ect... and if it’s still an issue the projector may be the cause.

2) If directly connecting the cord fixed the issue, next test your receiver. Remove all inputs except your media device. Turn off all video processing settings on your AVR, and connect only one hdmi cable to one output on your AVR. If the video no longer cuts out move on to part 3. If the video still cuts out then try moveing hdmi inputs/outputs and do a factory reset on the AVR. If it still cuts out the AVR might be the issue. 

3) This is usually the issue that most people have (including myself). If your AVR has dual HDMI output and you have your HDTV on one and the 4050ub on the other your receiver should automatically pick a resolution/HDR setting that works for both outputs. If their is a mismatch anywhere between your devices you will get HDMI handshake problems (video cutting in and out). It doesn’t matter if your device is off since our devices are never truly off unless unplugged the receiver can still see it. In this case you need to either put your AVR to only output to one device (don’t forget to turn off and back on); However, if all 3 of your devices (TV, AVR, and projector) have the exact matching capabilities (resolution/frame rate/12bit processors/HDR/Dolby Vision) then you need to troubleshoot more and find out the weak link in the system which could be your hdmi 1.3 cables mixed with 2.0, or low quality bandwidth cables. Or your TV settings/AVR settings may need adjustment. If one thing doesn’t match perfectly you will get handshaking issues, so if your tv doesn’t support 24hz and the projector does when the media player outputs 24hz the tv rejects it and your screen cuts in and out. 

Hopefully this explanation helps. With my setup since my TV was out before HDR (firmware updates added it) my tv has to a 10bit HDR panel and since my 5040ub with my Apple TV plays movies in 12bit at 24hz I get handshaking hdmi issues where my image goes black for a second over and over again. My fix was to turn off auto output in my denon receiver to only output to the device I want. When I use my projector I simply swap the outputs from output 1 to output 2. It’s a little inconvenient, but solves the problem entirely and most people blame the cord first, TV or projector before realizing that it’s usually a limitation of incompatibility between devices. I’m not sure if all AVRs have this issue, it seems like the auto feature could be smarter to prevent this, but then again my receiver is an x4300h and not exactly new. Maybe models made in 2019 doesn’t have these issues.


----------



## momofx

DarrinH said:


> momofx said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is anyone using the SSG-3100GB 3D Glasses? I like that they cover the sides pretty well and go good over prescription glasses and was wondering if they would work well with the 5050UB.
> 
> 
> What other glasses are you guys using otherwise?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just jumped into ownership of the 5050UB. Glasses suggestions??
Click to expand...

I ended up getting both the Epson and the Samsung glasses so I could compare and it's a VERY close similarity BUT the Samsung glasses are little more brighter. They are alot cheaper too. Only downside is they are not usb rechargeable and take CR2032 (I think) but it suppose to last a couple months with regular use even... my suggestion is still the Samsung 🙂


----------



## momofx

@fredworld I saw your post where you used both Spears and Munsil discs (one for the blue filter) and got better results than the stock settings - I decides to give it a shot as well. Sucks you have to buy both discs to get the blue filter. Wonder why they did not include it with the UHD 4K disc?


----------



## Porknz

jch2 said:


> That will work fine, except you won't get Dolby True HD or DTS HD Master Audio that way. There isn't enough bandwidth on an optical cable for those formats since they are uncompressed. If your AVR is new enough to have HDMI ports then you can use the UB820s second HDMI port and connect to your AVR for just audio (configure the second HDMI port for audio only). That will get you high-definition audio.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, but you will need to use multiple 4k HDR high bandwidth source devices with your existing cable (Apple TV 4k in 4k60 HDR 4:2:2, nVidia Shield TV 2019, Fire TV Stick 4k in 12-bit HDR, Roku Ultra) to try to see if any of them have issues. If other 4k devices show issues, then that rules out the UB820. And also, if you have a 4k HDR TV, try the UB820 with the existing (long) cable and the TV. If you see the same problems with the TV, it could be the UB820 or the cable.
> 
> I use a UB820, have had a 5050UB (now a 6050UB) and currently use a Blue Jeans Cable 40' Series 3A active copper cable.
> 
> 
> 
> What cable do you currently have (is it the ATZBEE)? Where did you purchase it (from Amazon)? When did you purchase it (within the last year)? If so, just contact Amazon and they can put you in touch with the cable manufacturer and they will most likely send you a replacement cable for free. Or, report it as defective to Amazon and they will ship you a replacement for free. You can try both and see if there is any difference.
> 
> The RUIPRO is expensive, yes. There are many other active hybrid fiber cables on Amazon like the MavisLink that work fine and are much less expensive than the RUIPRO. You may not get the same level of customer service from the other companies though (MavisLink never returned my Amazon inquiry or my email to support). The RUIPRRO is expensive because they provide excellent customer service. Amazon has free 30-day returns, so just get one of the less expensive cables and try it. If it doesn't solve your problem then you can rule out the cable and return it for free.





Thanks for taking the time to respond. I'm looking at new audio equipment, but that's a next year thing maybe. I'd like to add a new receiver that will do 7.2 and add two more surrounds. For now, I know I'm missing out on audio, but I'm good with what I have for the moment.


I have the Atzebe that was recommended on here. I purchased it through amazon late last summer. Maybe I'll try to talk to amazon and the company to see if they can help me out with a new cable before I drop another $150 on a different company.


I don't have any other 4k devices, so I'll have to think on what I might be able to do to test the cable. I suppose if I get a new cable and the same thing happens, that might be a sign it's the player or the projector.


Receiver is old enough that it doesn't have hdmi.


I'll look into the bjc for what a 50' cable would cost there.


Thanks again.


----------



## fredworld

momofx said:


> @*fredworld* I saw your post where you used both Spears and Munsil discs (one for the blue filter) and got better results than the stock settings - I decides to give it a shot as well. Sucks you have to buy both discs to get the blue filter. Wonder why they did not include it with the UHD 4K disc?



You can buy the UHD Benchmark disc and then write to S&M with proof of purchase and they'll send you a filter. No need to buy both discs. S&M advised me that there are too many variables between UHD displays to have one universal blue filter. For my Samsung QLED UHD TV I used the TV's blue RGB setting to adjust the picture. I strongly urge reading the information on their website for full instructions and a better understanding on using the disc.


----------



## Porknz

mat82284 said:


> I’m not sure your exact problem since I didn’t read this whole thread or own a 5050ub, but I do own a 5040ub and learned a lot over the last week about hdmi/picture dropping issues and don’t forget that the first thing you should always when troubleshooting is remove all the external parts as possible.
> 
> Do this.
> 
> 1) connect your media device directly to your projector with the hdmi cable your testing (and test different HDR/resolutions for your device). If your video doesn’t cut out anymore then move on to part 2 since it’s not the cord, projector, or your media device. If it still cuts out then swap hdmi cords, then try another media device ect... and if it’s still an issue the projector may be the cause.
> 
> 2) If directly connecting the cord fixed the issue, next test your receiver. Remove all inputs except your media device. Turn off all video processing settings on your AVR, and connect only one hdmi cable to one output on your AVR. If the video no longer cuts out move on to part 3. If the video still cuts out then try moveing hdmi inputs/outputs and do a factory reset on the AVR. If it still cuts out the AVR might be the issue.
> 
> 3) This is usually the issue that most people have (including myself). If your AVR has dual HDMI output and you have your HDTV on one and the 4050ub on the other your receiver should automatically pick a resolution/HDR setting that works for both outputs. If their is a mismatch anywhere between your devices you will get HDMI handshake problems (video cutting in and out). It doesn’t matter if your device is off since our devices are never truly off unless unplugged the receiver can still see it. In this case you need to either put your AVR to only output to one device (don’t forget to turn off and back on); However, if all 3 of your devices (TV, AVR, and projector) have the exact matching capabilities (resolution/frame rate/12bit processors/HDR/Dolby Vision) then you need to troubleshoot more and find out the weak link in the system which could be your hdmi 1.3 cables mixed with 2.0, or low quality bandwidth cables. Or your TV settings/AVR settings may need adjustment. If one thing doesn’t match perfectly you will get handshaking issues, so if your tv doesn’t support 24hz and the projector does when the media player outputs 24hz the tv rejects it and your screen cuts in and out.
> 
> Hopefully this explanation helps. With my setup since my TV was out before HDR (firmware updates added it) my tv has to a 10bit HDR panel and since my 5040ub with my Apple TV plays movies in 12bit at 24hz I get handshaking hdmi issues where my image goes black for a second over and over again. My fix was to turn off auto output in my denon receiver to only output to the device I want. When I use my projector I simply swap the outputs from output 1 to output 2. It’s a little inconvenient, but solves the problem entirely and most people blame the cord first, TV or projector before realizing that it’s usually a limitation of incompatibility between devices. I’m not sure if all AVRs have this issue, it seems like the auto feature could be smarter to prevent this, but then again my receiver is an x4300h and not exactly new. Maybe models made in 2019 doesn’t have these issues.



Thanks for taking the time for the lengthy response.



Current setup has the fiber cable going directly from the ub820 to the 5050ub.


Receiver is old enough that it doesn't have hdmi. I have the hdmi going from the ub820 to the projector directly and then an optical going from the ub820 to the receiver.


----------



## SALadder22FF

So after testing the new fiber optic 4k HDMI cable I ran it tonight and am getting signal so looks like it made it thru the run without any damage. 

I was super nervous with all the warnings on it about how they are fragile.

When I turned on borderlands 4k HDR there was what looked like a green line down the middle of the screen which made me think I'd damaged it. I changed inputs and back again and no green line.

All 4k HDR inputs are getting it now. Any ideas what that was? Just a handshake issue?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

SALadder22FF said:


> So after testing the new fiber optic 4k HDMI cable I ran it tonight and am getting signal so looks like it made it thru the run without any damage.
> 
> I was super nervous with all the warnings on it about how they are fragile.
> 
> When I turned on borderlands 4k HDR there was what looked like a green line down the middle of the screen which made me think I'd damaged it. I changed inputs and back again and no green line.
> 
> All 4k HDR inputs are getting it now. Any ideas what that was? Just a handshake issue?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Just a handshake issue. It happens from time to time

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

skylarlove1999 said:


> Just a handshake issue. It happens from time to time
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you for calming my fears I had damaged the cable. Now time to go pick up my panny 420 and start calibration with Spears disc.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## mat82284

Porknz said:


> Thanks for taking the time for the lengthy response.
> 
> 
> 
> Current setup has the fiber cable going directly from the ub820 to the 5050ub.
> 
> 
> Receiver is old enough that it doesn't have hdmi. I have the hdmi going from the ub820 to the projector directly and then an optical going from the ub820 to the receiver.


Ok, after looking at your posts it looks like your issue of the screen going black is limited to netflix and If playing blurays works perfectly fine in 4k hdr without an loss of video then your cable is not the problem. Your issue probably a compatability issue with netflix's bluray players app coding, or an issue with the bluray players audio conversion to downmix the audio because for optical out (low quality), or maybe even your internet connection. I'd suggest turning off any and all conversion settings to start ruling things out. 

Also you really should get a new receiver asap, even something as cheap as a simple 7.1 $300 receiver since audio out optical cables cant output 5.1/7.1 multi-channel PCM, Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, Dolby Atmos, DTS-HD Master Audio, DTS:X, and Auro 3D Audio. 

Also i did a quick look at the instruction manual. Did you hook up the projector to the audio out hdmi port? If not read your instruction manual page 14 for more troubleshooting. A very simple test to rule out the HDMI cable is to move your bd820 within 2-3 feet of your projector and connect it with a 3ft hdmi cable and do more tests.


----------



## Porknz

mat82284 said:


> Ok, after looking at your posts it looks like your issue of the screen going black is limited to netflix and If playing blurays works perfectly fine in 4k hdr without an loss of video then your cable is not the problem. Your issue probably a compatability issue with netflix's bluray players app coding, or an issue with the bluray players audio conversion to downmix the audio because for optical out (low quality), or maybe even your internet connection. I'd suggest turning off any and all conversion settings to start ruling things out.
> 
> Also you really should get a new receiver asap, even something as cheap as a simple 7.1 $300 receiver since audio out optical cables cant output 5.1/7.1 multi-channel PCM, Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby TrueHD, Dolby Atmos, DTS-HD Master Audio, DTS:X, and Auro 3D Audio.
> 
> Also i did a quick look at the instruction manual. Did you hook up the projector to the audio out hdmi port? If not read your instruction manual page 14 for more troubleshooting. A very simple test to rule out the HDMI cable is to move your bd820 within 2-3 feet of your projector and connect it with a 3ft hdmi cable and do more tests.



I like this one!


Not sure why I didn't think about moving the ub820 with a regular hdmi cable that is shorter to check for the same effect.


I will double check hdmi connections. I know it is in the audio out on the ub820. I will double check what it is connected to on the projector.


I will also start doing some research on a receiver. Looked at a $1500 marantz that looked nice, but not in my budget this year after the projector, screen and 4k player. Are you suggesting that could impact that picture drop, or just that is sucks for current audio? I know it sucks for current audio and will live with that for the time being, but if it could be impacting the picture drop, that makes it more immediate.


Thanks!


----------



## mat82284

Porknz said:


> I like this one!
> 
> 
> Not sure why I didn't think about moving the ub820 with a regular hdmi cable that is shorter to check for the same effect.
> 
> 
> I will double check hdmi connections. I know it is in the audio out on the ub820. I will double check what it is connected to on the projector.
> 
> 
> I will also start doing some research on a receiver. Looked at a $1500 marantz that looked nice, but not in my budget this year after the projector, screen and 4k player. Are you suggesting that could impact that picture drop, or just that is sucks for current audio? I know it sucks for current audio and will live with that for the time being, but if it could be impacting the picture drop, that makes it more immediate.
> 
> 
> Thanks!


I know it affects audio quality, but a newer receiver that can use the new formats wont need to convert the audio to a workable format. When it comes to audio on bluray they come with multiple formats to prevent your equipment from converting them, but when streaming its limited to what ever netflix uses so if the format cant be outputed on your receiver because of the optical port then your receiver has to process the audio and convert it for you. Another posability is the blueray player is processing the audio because your reciever cant understand the newer formats to convert. I'm not too posative on this as i dont really know how our receivers work in that aspect. 

I think your issue is either a bad hdmi cable, choppy internet at times not keeping up with the big formats, or netflix runs really poorly on your BD player and that you may want to consider getting a mainstream media player for netflix that gets alot of attention for development and debugging like the apple tv/amazon fire systems. 

Hopefully you figure it out, i know how frustrating it is to see your image cut in and out.


----------



## Porknz

mat82284 said:


> I know it affects audio quality, but a newer receiver that can use the new formats wont need to convert the audio to a workable format. When it comes to audio on bluray they come with multiple formats to prevent your equipment from converting them, but when streaming its limited to what ever netflix uses so if the format cant be outputed on your receiver because of the optical port then your receiver has to process the audio and convert it for you. Another posability is the blueray player is processing the audio because your reciever cant understand the newer formats to convert. I'm not too posative on this as i dont really know how our receivers work in that aspect.
> 
> I think your issue is either a bad hdmi cable, choppy internet at times not keeping up with the big formats, or netflix runs really poorly on your BD player and that you may want to consider getting a mainstream media player for netflix that gets alot of attention for development and debugging like the apple tv/amazon fire systems.
> 
> Hopefully you figure it out, i know how frustrating it is to see your image cut in and out.



I need to get a fire device I think, especially if you think that might help. I actually had one here from amazon along with a converter of some sort because I figured without wifi on the projector, I needed to connect it with a hardline some how. Then I think someone explained to me that I could get netflix through the ub820 and I think then I might have figured I was set and returned it. If I got a stick again or tried a cube, how would setup of it work with my project and blueray player? Where would I put it in the chain of devices?


----------



## mat82284

Porknz said:


> I need to get a fire device I think, especially if you think that might help. I actually had one here from amazon along with a converter of some sort because I figured without wifi on the projector, I needed to connect it with a hardline some how. Then I think someone explained to me that I could get netflix through the ub820 and I think then I might have figured I was set and returned it. If I got a stick again or tried a cube, how would setup of it work with my project and blueray player? Where would I put it in the chain of devices?


The best setup is to get an AVR with hdmi inputs and dual outputs. That way you can run everything to the AVR, then run one output to your TV, then to the projector. I'm not sure you have much of an option other than to get a reciver if you go this route because if you get the amazon 4k firestick you wont have any audio out without an hdmi input on your receiver, and the same thing would happen if you get an apple tv. I'm not even sure of any media device these days with an optical out audio port anymore... What I'd suggest is grab a cheap receiver, something in the 7.2 area for around $300-500 and keep that for a couple years then throw it in your room when your ready to go all in on upgrading your audio setup.

I'd still move the bluray player closer with a small hdmi cable before buying anything else, just to rule that out for sure.


----------



## Luminated67

mat82284 said:


> The best setup is to get an AVR with hdmi inputs and dual outputs. That way you can run everything to the AVR, then run one output to your TV, then to the projector. I'm not sure you have much of an option other than to get a reciver if you go this route because if you get the amazon 4k firestick you wont have any audio out without an hdmi input on your receiver, and the same thing would happen if you get an apple tv. I'm not even sure of any media device these days with an optical out audio port anymore... What I'd suggest is grab a cheap receiver, something in the 7.2 area for around $300-500 and keep that for a couple years then throw it in your room when your ready to go all in on upgrading your audio setup.
> 
> I'd still move the bluray player closer with a small hdmi cable before buying anything else, just to rule that out for sure.


I’d recommend him getting the Sony 1080 simply because it’s one of the cheapest 7.2 AV Receivers that offers full 4K 60Hz HDR across all inputs and outputs as for as I’m aware, plus here in the UK it’s been voted top sub £500 AV Receiver for at least 2 possibly 3 years in a row.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Hey guys I'm using the speers and munsil calibration disc and have a few questions


It says set SDR first then hdr. Is it normal to have a contrast level set to 32? It seems to clip above that. That seems rather low.

I'm using a 138 diy spandex screen


Also the hdr slider. How do I know if it's the correct setting from 1 to 10?


----------



## Luminated67

Chris Corcoran said:


> Hey guys I'm using the speers and munsil calibration disc and have a few questions
> 
> 
> It says set SDR first then hdr. Is it normal to have a contrast level set to 32? It seems to clip above that. That seems rather low.
> 
> I'm using a 138 diy spandex screen
> 
> 
> Also the hdr slider. How do I know if it's the correct setting from 1 to 10?


I had the exact same issue with using all these discs and it’s not a Epson problem as I had the same thing with my Sony.

HDR slider..... I think this is more trial and error, so basically set to what looks right to you. I have my at between 3-4 but use a Panasonic which has a form of auto tonal mapping built in.


----------



## Pretorian

jch2 said:


> momofx said:
> 
> 
> 
> @fredworld I saw your post where you used both Spears and Munsil discs (one for the blue filter) and got better results than the stock settings - I decides to give it a shot as well. Sucks you have to buy both discs to get the blue filter. Wonder why they did not include it with the UHD 4K disc?
> 
> 
> 
> The Epson 5050UB/6050UB has a built in R, G, and B filter you can enable. You don't need the plastic.
Click to expand...

Nice. How do I find that?


----------



## momofx

Pretorian said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> momofx said:
> 
> 
> 
> @fredworld I saw your post where you used both Spears and Munsil discs (one for the blue filter) and got better results than the stock settings - I decides to give it a shot as well. Sucks you have to buy both discs to get the blue filter. Wonder why they did not include it with the UHD 4K disc?
> 
> 
> 
> The Epson 5050UB/6050UB has a built in R, G, and B filter you can enable. You don't need the plastic.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice. How do I find that?
Click to expand...

X2 I feel like doh! So where is this setting?


----------



## momofx

Luminated67 said:


> Chris Corcoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys I'm using the speers and munsil calibration disc and have a few questions
> 
> 
> It says set SDR first then hdr. Is it normal to have a contrast level set to 32? It seems to clip above that. That seems rather low.
> 
> I'm using a 138 diy spandex screen
> 
> 
> Also the hdr slider. How do I know if it's the correct setting from 1 to 10?
> 
> 
> 
> I had the exact same issue with using all these discs and itâ€™️s not a Epson problem as I had the same thing with my Sony.
> 
> HDR slider..... I think this is more trial and error, so basically set to what looks right to you. I have my at between 3-4 but use a Panasonic which has a form of auto tonal mapping built in.
Click to expand...

I noticed this too. Also the sharpness setting on the disc did nothing even at full. Idk I have mixed opinions on the final outcome as well... maybe its a matter of mostly personal preference? Maybe some of us need more color or more contrast, etc. Which the disc will show as wrong but it looks right to you....


----------



## MinHeadroom

If anybody knows the answer to this it will be quite appreciated: I am finally giving my monstrosity of a hush box a real torture test, and I am very curious where the best place might be to measure the inside temperature. I have quickly learned that the exhaust port of the PJ will ALWAYS give a really hot temperature. Thoughts?


----------



## jch2

Pretorian said:


> Nice. How do I find that?





momofx said:


> X2 I feel like doh! So where is this setting?


DOH! Sorry guys, my mistake. I calibrated both my LG C8 OLED TV and my Epson 6050UB on the same day with the Spears and Munsil UHD benchmark disc and got them confused. The LG TV has built-in color filters. The Epson 6050UB projector does not. So, you will need the blue color filter piece of plastic for color calibration on the Epson projectors.


----------



## 200473

jch2 said:


> DOH! Sorry guys, my mistake. I calibrated both my LG C8 OLED TV and my Epson 6050UB on the same day with the Spears and Munsil UHD benchmark disc and got them confused. The LG TV has built-in color filters. The Epson 6050UB projector does not. So, you will need the blue color filter piece of plastic for color calibration on the Epson projectors.





What are the boards used for hidden under the red key?


----------



## jch2

200473 said:


> What are the boards used for hidden under the red key?


Under the red dot in your image is the "Pattern" button which produces test patterns for things like setting up the lens focus, zoom, shift, and blanking so the image fills your screen.


----------



## 200473

jch2 said:


> Under the red dot in your image is the "Pattern" button which produces a test pattern (just one) that you can use to setup the lens focus, zoom, and shift so the image fills your screen.


There are 4 options to choose from:
pattern rest painting
R red screen
Y green screen
B blue screen. I have Epson EH -TW 9400W

Description from the manual

Displaying the Test Pattern
When adjusting the zoom/focus or the projection position just after setting up the projector, you can display
a test pattern instead of connecting video equipment.
Press the button on the remote control to display the test pattern. The standard for horizontal lines
at the top and bottom uses 2.40:1 CinemaScope.
When you select Color Isolation while projecting images, the color selected from R (red), G (green), or B (blue)
is projected (EH-TW9400W/EH-TW9400 only).
Press the button again to end the test pattern display.


----------



## pete ramberg

Blanking question: Can the blanking amount be saved in a memory file, along with color info or lens position info?? Or, do you have to manually set blanking each time?


----------



## jch2

pete ramberg said:


> Blanking question: Can the blanking amount be saved in a memory file, along with color info or lens position info?? Or, do you have to manually set blanking each time?


Blanking is stored with the lens memory slots (focus, zoom, shift, and blanking). I'm not sure if any other parameters are saved to those slots.

There are separate memory slots for calibration parameters.


----------



## pete ramberg

jch2 said:


> Blanking is stored with the lens memory slots (focus, zoom, shift, and blanking). I'm not sure if any other parameters are saved to those slots.
> 
> There are separate memory slots for calibration parameters.


OK thanks. My buddy has a 5040UB and says he can't save blanking info. Any idea if this is new to the 5050UB? I'm out of town, so I can't check mine...


----------



## momofx

I read somewhere that using lense shifti ng and zoom will reduce picture quality?? Does not make sense to me so I thought I'd ask...


----------



## jch2

pete ramberg said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Blanking is stored with the lens memory slots (focus, zoom, shift, and blanking). I'm not sure if any other parameters are saved to those slots.
> 
> There are separate memory slots for calibration parameters.
> 
> 
> 
> OK thanks. My buddy has a 5040UB and says he can't save blanking info. Any idea if this is new to the 5050UB? I'm out of town, so I can't check mine...
Click to expand...

I can't answer that. I've only ever had a 5050UB and a 6050UB and blanking saves and restores with the other lens settings in the lens memory slots.


----------



## noob00224

momofx said:


> I read somewhere that using lense shifti ng and zoom will reduce picture quality?? Does not make sense to me so I thought I'd ask...


The more zoom is used the less sharp the image is, and ANSI contrast improves at the detriment of FOFO.

Using excessive lens shift may produce visual artifacts.
Some reports on the 5040UB have been that no artifacts are visible at any lens shift setting.


----------



## jch2

noob00224 said:


> momofx said:
> 
> 
> 
> I read somewhere that using lense shifti ng and zoom will reduce picture quality?? Does not make sense to me so I thought I'd ask...
> 
> 
> 
> The more zoom is used the less sharp the image is, and ANSI contrast improves at the detriment of FOFO.
> 
> Using excessive lens shift may produce visual artifacts.
> Some reports on the 5040UB have been that no artifacts are visible at any lens shift setting.
Click to expand...

I had a 5050UB and now have a 6050UB. I use a little less than mid zoom (15 feet from a 10 foot screen), so I can't comment on what happens at the limits of zoom.

But I do use the full vertical range of lens shift since my projector sits 19 inches above the top of my screen. For 16:9 I'm using almost all the shift, and for 2.35:1 content I shift the image all the way to the bottom limit of the lens shift to get the picture area almost even with the bottom of my mask (I wish it had about 1" more vertical range). I see no visible distortion and no color or brightness uniformity issues when using the lens shift at its vertical extreme.


----------



## Luminated67

Due to the height of my movie room ceiling and certain doors my 9400 (6050) is almost but not quite at maximum zoom, I can tell you that with regards to sharpness it is pin sharp.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tyerpld11o8i7ga/Photo 22-04-2019, 20 41 12.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uir61kb26fdke3y/Photo 17-02-2019, 17 24 04.jpg?dl=0


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> Due to the height of my movie room ceiling and certain doors my 9400 (6050) is almost but not quite at maximum zoom, I can tell you that with regards to sharpness it is pin sharp.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/tyerpld11o8i7ga/Photo 22-04-2019, 20 41 12.jpg?dl=0
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/uir61kb26fdke3y/Photo 17-02-2019, 17 24 04.jpg?dl=0


Looks pretty sharp. What is your source and how to you play it? Is it physical from a UHD player?


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Looks pretty sharp. What is your source and how to you play it? Is it physical from a UHD player?


OK, the top image is 1080p Bluray sent from my Sony X700 and Epson 4K e-shift, the below image is 4K UHD Bluray sent from my Panasonic 420 to the Epson. Both players go through my Sony 1080 AVR to the Epson by an Optical HDMI.

Here’s some additional photos

https://www.dropbox.com/s/raf1eos3wi3hw5v/Photo 22-04-2019, 20 25 56.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/eycikkh7zeangie/Photo 05-05-2019, 18 55 10.jpg?dl=0
1080p

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7iqey1az7aedzxe/Photo 04-05-2019, 17 20 50.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/e2kbv7ga5kg3uet/Photo 16-02-2019, 17 52 58.jpg?dl=0
4K

Also in case anyone is questioning what the contrast is like on the Epson I took a photo last week to show what my black borders look like in my bat cave. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmi8rla6xpkhz2t/Photo 01-01-2020, 19 48 55.jpg?dl=0

This is a 100% accurate image of what you see with the naked eye, it’s visible but certainly not something that draws your attention.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

A few questions that I'm still confused on.


SD should always be watched in rec 709 and calibrated using rec 709 software correct? This I understand.

HDR and its color space BT2020 is what I'm confused with because of the p3 color filter this unit has.

Should I have the p3 filter on ( digital cinema ) when calibrating ? Do I calibrate using p3 software ? I'm completely lost.


Most importantly, gaming and what setting to use. Should I use the calibrated digital cinema setting ? Or does the color filter make things not accurate ? I see the xbox one x outputs bt2020 but nothing is listed for p3. Do I use a setting that does not engage the filter for gaming? Thanks


HDR slider. What setting should it be when calibrating the projector? Does it matter ?


----------



## Luminated67

Chris Corcoran said:


> A few questions that I'm still confused on.
> 
> 
> SD should always be watched in rec 709 and calibrated using rec 709 software correct? This I understand.
> 
> HDR and its color space BT2020 is what I'm confused with because of the p3 color filter this unit has.
> 
> Should I have the p3 filter on ( digital cinema ) when calibrating ? Do I calibrate using p3 software ? I'm completely lost.
> 
> 
> Most importantly, gaming and what setting to use. Should I use the calibrated digital cinema setting ? Or does the color filter make things not accurate ? I see the xbox one x outputs bt2020 but nothing is listed for p3. Do I use a setting that does not engage the filter for gaming? Thanks
> 
> 
> HDR slider. What setting should it be when calibrating the projector? Does it matter ?


Yes the P3 filter should be used to calibrate BT2020. The slider doesn’t alter the colour as far as I am aware only the brightness, I can’t recall where my calibrator positioned it when setting mine up but when watching movies mine generally sits in the position 4 though occasionally it might move either up or down one.


----------



## biglen

The past 2 times I've turned on my 5050, it starts up with the fan spinning REALLY fast, then a minute later, the picture comes on and the fan slows down. Any reason why this would be happening? I have 350 hours on the 5050. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

biglen said:


> The past 2 times I've turned on my 5050, it starts up with the fan spinning REALLY fast, then a minute later, the picture comes on and the fan slows down. Any reason why this would be happening? I have 350 hours on the 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My 6050UB does that if I power it back on soon after turning it off. It's almost like it is cooling off the projector and/or bulb before turning the bulb back on. I have never seen it do that when the projector was starting from a cold start. I have read other posts in this thread of projectors being permanently stuck in that high fan speed no light state at startup, and that is usually a bulb problem.


----------



## gene4ht

biglen said:


> The past 2 times I've turned on my 5050, it starts up with the fan spinning REALLY fast, then a minute later, the picture comes on and the fan slows down. Any reason why this would be happening? I have 350 hours on the 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


The periodic “high speed fan at start up” has been exhibited for several years and reported over previous Epson models as well. Repeated inquiries to Epson support, even at advanced support levels, have yielded no plausible explanation for this odd behavior. 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-613.html#post58948450


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> The past 2 times I've turned on my 5050, it starts up with the fan spinning REALLY fast, then a minute later, the picture comes on and the fan slows down. Any reason why this would be happening? I have 350 hours on the 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


So you are positive the fan is spinning noticeably faster than previous times correct? The only reason I asked is because some projector owners don't really pay attention to their projector starting. The fan initially comes on and then stops once the screen lights up because it took more heat / energy to start the projector then to actually operate if you are in low lamp mode which I believe you run a lot. I will keep an eye on it but it doesn't sound anything other than normal.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

jch2 said:


> My 6050UB does that if I power it back on soon after turning it off. It's almost like it is cooling off the projector and/or bulb before turning the bulb back on. I have never seen it do that when the projector was starting from a cold start. I have read other posts in this thread of projectors being permanently stuck in that high fan speed no light state at startup, and that is usually a bulb problem.


My 5040 has been exhibiting this fan behavior for several years even from a cold start or having been idle for a prolonged period.


----------



## DarrinH

New owner and I looked through the manual and did not see definitions of the color modes (only best for...). So in order to view the WCG representation it is through the use of the P3 filter which is shown by selecting the digital cinema color mode?


What do these 5 image presets represent?


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> The past 2 times I've turned on my 5050, it starts up with the fan spinning REALLY fast, then a minute later, the picture comes on and the fan slows down. Any reason why this would be happening? I have 350 hours on the 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


This is how mine is and has been for probably 10 months, it’s still going and hasn’t missed a beat so not too worried about it.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> New owner and I looked through the manual and did not see definitions of the color modes. So in order to view the WCG representation its through the use of the P3 filter which is shown by selecting the digital cinema color mode?


Digital Cinema Mode will give you the widest coverage of the DCI-P3 color gamut.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

skylarlove1999 said:


> So you are positive the fan is spinning noticeably faster than previous times correct? The only reason I asked is because some projector owners don't really pay attention to their projector starting. The fan initially comes on and then stops once the screen lights up because it took more heat / energy to start the projector then to actually operate if you are in low lamp mode which I believe you run a lot. I will keep an eye on it but it doesn't sound anything other than normal.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


When it occurs, it’s unmistakable and very noticeable...sounds like a jet engine!


----------



## Luminated67

DarrinH said:


> New owner and I looked through the manual and did not see definitions of the color modes. So in order to view the WCG representation it is through the use of the P3 filter which is shown by selecting the digital cinema color mode?
> 
> 
> What do these image presets represent?


The manual is actually a bit misleading because both ‘Cinema’ and ‘Digital Cinema’ use the filter so either is designed to be used when viewing BT2020.


----------



## noob00224

DarrinH said:


> New owner and I looked through the manual and did not see definitions of the color modes. So in order to view the WCG representation it is through the use of the P3 filter which is shown by selecting the digital cinema color mode?
> 
> 
> What do these image presets represent?


The models covers around 85-89% of DCI P3 (REC.709 is ~71% of DCI P3) without the filter, 100% or more with the filter.


----------



## biglen

gene4ht said:


> When it occurs, it’s unmistakable and very noticeable...sounds like a jet engine!


Yes, it sounds like a jet engine. I sit right below the projector, so I know what the normal fan startup sound is. This is 5 times louder and faster. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

biglen said:


> Yes, it sounds like a jet engine. I sit right below the projector, so I know what the normal fan startup sound is. This is 5 times louder and faster.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


This condition has been occurring on my 5040 for about 3 years now. And as @Luminated67 indicated, there have been no ill performance effects noted over time. It’s just puzzling/perplexing to me that Epson is unable or unwilling to provide a reasonable/plausible explanation for this behavior.


----------



## biglen

gene4ht said:


> This condition has been occurring on my 5040 for about 3 years now. And as @Luminated67 indicated, there have been no ill performance effects noted over time. It’s just puzzling/perplexing to me that Epson is unable or unwilling to provide a reasonable/plausible explanation for this behavior.


Now tonight it didn't do it. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris Bradburry

biglen said:


> The past 2 times I've turned on my 5050, it starts up with the fan spinning REALLY fast, then a minute later, the picture comes on and the fan slows down. Any reason why this would be happening? I have 350 hours on the 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Mine does the same thing. 
Chris


----------



## MinHeadroom

^ Mine does too; I always assumed it was like computer fans/ graphics card fans, which briefly start on full blast, presumably to either get stuck fans moving or to clear any dust bunnies (this is conjecture).


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> OK, the top image is 1080p Bluray sent from my Sony X700 and Epson 4K e-shift, the below image is 4K UHD Bluray sent from my Panasonic 420 to the Epson. Both players go through my Sony 1080 AVR to the Epson by an Optical HDMI.
> 
> Here’s some additional photos
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/raf1eos3wi3hw5v/Photo 22-04-2019, 20 25 56.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/eycikkh7zeangie/Photo 05-05-2019, 18 55 10.jpg?dl=0
> 1080p
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/7iqey1az7aedzxe/Photo 04-05-2019, 17 20 50.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/e2kbv7ga5kg3uet/Photo 16-02-2019, 17 52 58.jpg?dl=0
> 4K
> 
> Also in case anyone is questioning what the contrast is like on the Epson I took a photo last week to show what my black borders look like in my bat cave.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmi8rla6xpkhz2t/Photo 01-01-2020, 19 48 55.jpg?dl=0
> 
> This is a 100% accurate image of what you see with the naked eye, it’s visible but certainly not something that draws your attention.


Great photos!

You say that your AVR is 1080p. Does that mean that it cant handle 4k or do you still get a 4k feed to your PJ when using the Panasonic as source?


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Great photos!
> 
> You say that your AVR is 1080p. Does that mean that it cant handle 4k or do you still get a 4k feed to your PJ when using the Panasonic as source?


No I am using the SONY STRDN1080 AV Receiver, it's actually one of the few in it's price bracket that every HDMI both inputs and outputs handle HDCP2.2 4K.


----------



## gene4ht

biglen said:


> Now tonight it didn't do it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Ive experienced no discernible pattern as to when it occurs. It’s intermittent and definitely not at every power up. It occurs randomly and not happen for days, weeks, and even months. Again, so far the good news is it does not appear to have any detectable ill effects on performance. Once it does it’s “jet engine” thing for about a minute or so, it performs flawlessly. Hopefully, Epson will soon provide an explanation for this odd behavior.


----------



## DavidinGA

Kinda goes to show how little Epson changed from the 5040 to the new 5050 when even the odd super fan jet mode from the 5040 still happens on the 5050.


----------



## gene4ht

DavidinGA said:


> Kinda goes to show how little Epson changed from the 5040 to the new 5050 when even the odd super fan jet mode from the 5040 still happens on the 5050.


LOL! Actually, owners of models prior to the 5040 have reported the same fan behavior.


----------



## DavidinGA

gene4ht said:


> LOL! Actually, owners of models prior to the 5040 have reported the same fan behavior.


Wow, epson really does milk that initial R&D money they spent once a decade plus ago lol 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidinGA said:


> Wow, epson really does milk that initial R&D money they spent once a decade plus ago lol
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I can confirm Epson certainly likes to reuse design elements that they believe continue to work. I think there might be some differing opinions in the owners as to whether the design elements worked initially and continue to work.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

I quickly tested the heat output with my thermo meter on ECO and it was reading around 115 deg.


----------



## fredworld

*Lamp Replacement*

It's not anywhere near time for me to order a new lamp (750 hours on the lamp) but I thought I'd get information for when the time comes. I was going to write to Epson about this because their support people have been excellent with my initial set-up and troubleshooting questions, but I figured I'd post here to see what the forum members know. 

So, I just did a search for lamp replacements. Out of curiosity, I searched for both the 5050UB and 6050UB thinking that if, as reported, the 6050 gets the pick of the lamp litter, why not order a 6050 lamp for my 5050 projector. Here are the results for the *5050* and *6050* searches on Pureland Supply's website. They're the same price and the same advertised specs _and_ the same model number. However, the *Epson site* shows the same model number, for almost $200 more and it's, also, the same model for both the 5050 and 6050. 

How would 6050 owner's know if they are getting the alleged better lamp? Is buying direct from Epson the only source for such? Are the lamps somehow segregated before distribution to suppliers? If so, how are the better lamps identified?


----------



## MinHeadroom

HTX^2steve said:


> I quickly tested the heat output with my thermo meter on ECO and it was reading around 115 deg.




Thank you for this!


----------



## skylarlove1999

fredworld said:


> It's not anywhere near time for me to order a new lamp (750 hours on the lamp) but I thought I'd get information for when the time comes. I was going to write to Epson about this because their support people have been excellent with my initial set-up and troubleshooting questions, but I figured I'd post here to see what the forum members know.
> 
> So, I just did a search for lamp replacements. Out of curiosity, I searched for both the 5050UB and 6050UB thinking that if, as reported, the 6050 gets the pick of the lamp litter, why not order a 6050 lamp for my 5050 projector. Here are the results for the *5050* and *6050* searches on Pureland Supply's website. They're the same price and the same advertised specs _and_ the same model number. However, the *Epson site* shows the same model number, for almost $200 more and it's, also, the same model for both the 5050 and 6050.
> 
> How would 6050 owner's know if they are getting the alleged better lamp? Is buying direct from Epson the only source for such? Are the lamps somehow segregated before distribution to suppliers? If so, how are the better lamps identified?


It is not the lamp. It is the lens the optical lens through which the light travels that the 6050 is claimed to get the better lens meaning more uniformity Etc

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

skylarlove1999 said:


> It is not the lamp. It is the lens the optical lens through which the light travels that the 6050 is claimed to get the better lens meaning more uniformity Etc
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I'm sure I read about that in the past, but the brain does dull over time. Thanks for clarifying and saving me from embarrassing myself with Epson.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

I notice when I'm doing greyscale adjustments and I'm displaying white there is color shifting


The left side seems reddish, the center is more greenish blue....is this somewhat normal...?


----------



## fredworld

Chris Corcoran said:


> I notice when I'm doing greyscale adjustments and I'm displaying white there is color shifting
> 
> 
> The left side seems reddish, the center is more greenish blue....is this somewhat normal...?



What is your source for patterns? 

And when you say "shifting" do you mean there are colors actively shifting into different areas of the screen without making any adjustment? Alternatively, your color alignment might be off.

If the colors shift while you change gray scale adjustments, then I think that should be expected because you are altering the gray scale.
I wouldn't use white to adjust gray scale. I'd use white as one of the checks to see if gray scale, color and tint are adjusted properly. 

I use the *Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark* disc which I found to be an excellent tool for adjusting my projector and UHD TV.
I hope this helps.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

If I'm looking at greyscale 8 which is basically white I notice the colors. It's not a uniform white but slight hue changes on various parts of the screen. Its static. It's noticable, but not dramatic and overly pronounced.


----------



## fredworld

Chris Corcoran said:


> If I'm looking at greyscale 8 which is basically white I notice the colors. It's not a uniform white but slight hue changes on various parts of the screen. Its static. It's noticable, but not dramatic and overly pronounced.


There are several reasons that I can think of that could cause such. Ideally, a full white frame will be uniform across the screen, which in my experience never occurs due to screen gain, screen size, throw distance and age of the lamp to name a few. On my 1.3 gain 82" Stewart Firehawk screen at a throw distance of 13'8" I have a large "hot spot" in the screen's center over about 60%+/- of the screen area. Outside that area it begins dimming evenly out to the edges, but no color intrusion. This is entirely subjective as I have no measuring equipment. Having said that, source material looks excellent and the dimming is not noticeable during playback.

I suspect that your color, tint, brightness and/or contrast controls need adjusting to help diminish or eliminate what you're seeing. Or as I mentioned earlier, your color alignment is off. Throw up the PATTERN from the remote to see if you get solid white lines. If not, then adjust it.


----------



## SALadder22FF

For any gamers out there. I haven't done any calibrating and this was on the natural setting. I just showed the difference in HDR and not. It's nice to be able to play with it and not have it super dark and look horrible. 4k 60fps 12 bit 4:2:2 is what it says is being output from the Xbox One X. 

I'm sure it'll look even better once dialed in.









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Maximum7

Hello, 

I'm fairly new to the projector game, and am having some "problems" with my image. 

I just upgraded from a Epson 2150 to the 5050 after having the 2150 for over a year. 

I have a Silver Ticket 106" white screen with a throw distance of 12.6' 

My issue is the blacks and white are blooming to the point there is hardly any detail. For instance, if someone is wearing a black sportscoat, you can't see the lapels or buttons it just looks all black. Same with the whites. There is just a white area with no detail or anything. 
It's like this thing is searing my eyes. Everything is on "11" compared to my 2150...LOL.

I am running it in Natural mode. I have adjusted most of the settings other than the technical gamma stuff from "Alaric's" website. I've tried adjusting brightness and contrast to no avail. Plus things like 4k enhancement in the menu are greyed out. Why is that? 

I am running sources thru a Marantz 6014 to the 5050, and have it set for just pass-thru. 

I didn't have this with the 2150. Yes blacks are blacker and whites are whiter, but I can't see any detail now like I could with the 2150. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Justin Landers

Need some advice. Building out theater room in basement and I’m torn between the 6050/5050 and the VPL-295. The room is 26x16 and first row will be about 13ft from screen. One window in the room. I viewed the VPL-295 at a local HT store and was floored at how great it looked. Unfortunately they didn’t have a 6050/5050 to demo and compare. I went to my local BB and they had both setup to view on 90” screen. With minimal light, to my eye I couldn’t tell huge difference between them.

My question is most of my viewing is going to be streaming, 500+ and counting movies on Vudu, and live TV, mostly sports. Going min 120” screen. Is there anyone out there with similar content viewing that was looking at both Sony and Epson? Why did you decide on Epson?

Pics of my room attached


----------



## rekbones

Justin Landers said:


> Need some advice. Building out theater room in basement and I’m torn between the 6050/5050 and the VPL-295. The room is 26x16 and first row will be about 13ft from screen. One window in the room. I viewed the VPL-295 at a local HT store and was floored at how great it looked. Unfortunately they didn’t have a 6050/5050 to demo and compare. I went to my local BB and they had both setup to view on 90” screen. With minimal light, to my eye I couldn’t tell huge difference between them.
> 
> My question is most of my viewing is going to be streaming, 500+ and counting movies on Vudu, and live TV, mostly sports. Going min 120” screen. Is there anyone out there with similar content viewing that was looking at both Sony and Epson? Why did you decide on Epson?
> 
> Pics of my room attached


Way too many questions unanswered to even give you a clue. Are you going to treat the room with at least dark paint including the ceiling? Will the window be blacked out or left as is? What size screen are you planning? What Aspect ration do you plan? You should start your own thread to get a better range of posters as your only going to get 5050/5060 fans opinions here.


----------



## rekbones

Maximum7 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm fairly new to the projector game, and am having some "problems" with my image.
> 
> I just upgraded from a Epson 2150 to the 5050 after having the 2150 for over a year.
> 
> I have a Silver Ticket 106" white screen with a throw distance of 12.6'
> 
> My issue is the blacks and white are blooming to the point there is hardly any detail. For instance, if someone is wearing a black sportscoat, you can't see the lapels or buttons it just looks all black. Same with the whites. There is just a white area with no detail or anything.
> It's like this thing is searing my eyes. Everything is on "11" compared to my 2150...LOL.
> 
> I am running it in Natural mode. I have adjusted most of the settings other than the technical gamma stuff from "Alaric's" website. I've tried adjusting brightness and contrast to no avail. Plus things like 4k enhancement in the menu are greyed out. Why is that?
> 
> I am running sources thru a Marantz 6014 to the 5050, and have it set for just pass-thru.
> 
> I didn't have this with the 2150. Yes blacks are blacker and whites are whiter, but I can't see any detail now like I could with the 2150.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


What's you source? If 4K enhancement is grayed out you must be sending a 4K source. Color space sounds like it is off as your getting crushed blacks and blown out whites.


----------



## Justin Landers

rekbones said:


> Justin Landers said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need some advice. Building out theater room in basement and Iâ€™️m torn between the 6050/5050 and the VPL-295. The room is 26x16 and first row will be about 13ft from screen. One window in the room. I viewed the VPL-295 at a local HT store and was floored at how great it looked. Unfortunately they didnâ€™️t have a 6050/5050 to demo and compare. I went to my local BB and they had both setup to view on 90â€ screen. With minimal light, to my eye I couldnâ€™️t tell huge difference between them.
> 
> My question is most of my viewing is going to be streaming, 500+ and counting movies on Vudu, and live TV, mostly sports. Going min 120â€ screen. Is there anyone out there with similar content viewing that was looking at both Sony and Epson? Why did you decide on Epson?
> 
> Pics of my room attached
> 
> 
> 
> Way too many questions unanswered to even give you a clue. Are you going to treat the room with at least dark paint including the ceiling? Will the window be blacked out or left as is? What size screen are you planning? What Aspect ration do you plan? You should start your own thread to get a better range of posters as your only going to get 5050/5060 fans opinions here.
Click to expand...



Sorry, it’s my first foray into projectors. Not blacking out the window, just blinds. Screen I’m going 120 or maybe 135 16:9, gray material screen. The walls will be a dark gray ( SW Peppercorn), ceiling white.

We watch a lot of movies and Sports my biggest concern from what I’ve read is the motion handling with the Epson. I haven’t found anywhere around me that has the Epson hooked up to live TV source to view.


----------



## Pretorian

I had to try and take a good still image to show off the new Epson. The source is 4k but the feed still is 1080p since my Denon is so old. 



But I still love the quality and sharpness. 



The colors and the blacks...


----------



## HTX^2steve

Justin Landers said:


> Need some advice. Building out theater room in basement and I’m torn between the 6050/5050 and the VPL-295. The room is 26x16 and first row will be about 13ft from screen. One window in the room. I viewed the VPL-295 at a local HT store and was floored at how great it looked. Unfortunately they didn’t have a 6050/5050 to demo and compare. I went to my local BB and they had both setup to view on 90” screen. With minimal light, to my eye I couldn’t tell huge difference between them.
> 
> My question is most of my viewing is going to be streaming, 500+ and counting movies on Vudu, and live TV, mostly sports. Going min 120” screen. Is there anyone out there with similar content viewing that was looking at both Sony and Epson? Why did you decide on Epson?
> 
> Pics of my room attached



The main thing you said was "streaming" in that case go for the Epson. You won't notice a difference.


----------



## CallingMrBenzo

Pretorian said:


> I had to try and take a good still image to show off the new Epson. The source is 4k but the feed still is 1080p since my Denon is so old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I still love the quality and sharpness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The colors and the blacks...




The blacks on regular Blu-Rays are quite nice indeed.


----------



## rekbones

Justin Landers said:


> Sorry, it’s my first foray into projectors. Not blacking out the window, just blinds. Screen I’m going 120 or maybe 135 16:9, gray material screen. The walls will be a dark gray ( SW Peppercorn), ceiling white.
> 
> We watch a lot of movies and Sports my biggest concern from what I’ve read is the motion handling with the Epson. I haven’t found anywhere around me that has the Epson hooked up to live TV source to view.


Not to be a pain but it looks like a really nice room but you maybe be making some serious mistakes and now is the time to correct them. I see your new to this forum just curious where you did your research into the design of this room. I could be way off and room may be just fine but from looking at the pictures and the above comments with no projector experience you might be helped with better advice from some very talented, experienced people on this forum. This is not the place to ask for build advice but post a new thread in the HT build section.


----------



## rekbones

Justin Landers said:


> Sorry, it’s my first foray into projectors. Not blacking out the window, just blinds. Screen I’m going 120 or maybe 135 16:9, gray material screen. The walls will be a dark gray ( SW Peppercorn), ceiling white.
> 
> We watch a lot of movies and Sports my biggest concern from what I’ve read is the motion handling with the Epson. I haven’t found anywhere around me that has the Epson hooked up to live TV source to view.


Not to be a pain but it looks like a really nice room but you maybe making some serious mistakes and now is the time to correct them. I see your new to this forum just curious where you did your research into the design of this room. I could be way off and room may be just fine but from looking at the pictures and the above comments with no projector experience you might be helped with better advice from some very talented, experienced people on this forum. This is not the place to ask for build advice but post a new thread in the HT build section.

EDIT: Room, screen, ambient light control and projector all need to work together to get the most out of FP and if you get one completely wrong it can be costly to correct.


----------



## Justin Landers

rekbones said:


> Justin Landers said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, itâ€™️s my first foray into projectors. Not blacking out the window, just blinds. Screen Iâ€™️m going 120 or maybe 135 16:9, gray material screen. The walls will be a dark gray ( SW Peppercorn), ceiling white.
> 
> We watch a lot of movies and Sports my biggest concern from what Iâ€™️ve read is the motion handling with the Epson. I havenâ€™️t found anywhere around me that has the Epson hooked up to live TV source to view.
> 
> 
> 
> Not to be a pain but it looks like a really nice room but you maybe be making some serious mistakes and now is the time to correct them. I see your new to this forum just curious where you did your research into the design of this room. I could be way off and room may be just fine but from looking at the pictures and the above comments with no projector experience you might be helped with better advice from some very talented, experienced people on this forum. This is not the place to ask for build advice but post a new thread in the HT build section.
Click to expand...

I appreciate all feedback from this forum. I was looking more for advice on the projector equipment. I’m pretty comfortable with my build out of the room, this isn’t going to be a bat cave. The wall that has the cables coming out is where the screen will go and initially I was going to put in custom cabinets in on that wall but have since changed my mind to where just PJ screen will be there and in wall speakers or towers out front to the sides. I have an AV company coming out tomorrow to look at the space, they are both Epson and Sony dealer. I was able to see the Sony with live TV I just haven’t been able to see the Epson anywhere with a live TV source.

My last basement I had a much smaller room and had the custom cabinets and a 65”.


----------



## coderguy

You can get a JVC RS-540 (x790) for the same price or less as an Epson 6050, just FYI... I hope the AV company you hired isn't charging you to come out to 'look', as not sure what they are trying to accomplish. Most AV companies are just going to try to sell you a bunch of junk you don't need, not all, just most.


----------



## Justin Landers

coderguy said:


> You can get a JVC RS-540 (x790) for the same price or less as an Epson 6050, just FYI... I hope the AV company you hired isn't charging you to come out to 'look', as not sure what they are trying to accomplish. Most AV companies are just going to try to sell you a bunch of junk you don't need, not all, just most.


They are not charging. I found another magnolia store by me that has the Epson, Sony, and Nx-5 setup with bigger screen and live tv source. Going to head over there at lunch.


----------



## coderguy

Justin Landers said:


> They are not charging. I found another magnolia store by me that has the Epson, Sony, and Nx-5 setup with bigger screen and live tv source. Going to head over there at lunch.


The NX-5 is ahead in every way, not sure a comparison is really valid at a store or HT place, there are external factors that almost always mess up those comparisons, differing brightness and other factors. If you can budget for the NX-5, then it's not much of a contest as that one is not only Native 4k like the Sony, but also sharper and better contrast than the Sony. Also, it has built-in dynamic tone mapping for HDR after a firmware upgrade. The Sony 295 shouldn't even be on the list unless you're getting it for a reduced price. Even the older JVC like the x790 (RS-540) easily beats those projectors in most cases, except the Sony is going to be a bit better at gaming, but the NX-5 is going to beat them in almost every category. The Epson is brighter, but you won't need it unless you are doing a giant screen over 140".


----------



## Macondawg

Justin Landers said:


> Need some advice. Building out theater room in basement and I’m torn between the 6050/5050 and the VPL-295. The room is 26x16 and first row will be about 13ft from screen. One window in the room. I viewed the VPL-295 at a local HT store and was floored at how great it looked. Unfortunately they didn’t have a 6050/5050 to demo and compare. I went to my local BB and they had both setup to view on 90” screen. With minimal light, to my eye I couldn’t tell huge difference between them.
> 
> My question is most of my viewing is going to be streaming, 500+ and counting movies on Vudu, and live TV, mostly sports. Going min 120” screen. Is there anyone out there with similar content viewing that was looking at both Sony and Epson? Why did you decide on Epson?
> 
> Pics of my room attached


I was in your shoes about 3 months ago. I got the 6050. The main reason was brightness. I can control the light in the room BUT when I am watching sports, I generally have people over and do not want it too dark. I am happy with my choice and my friends and family are amazed at the picture


----------



## Luminated67

Justin Landers said:


> Need some advice. Building out theater room in basement and I’m torn between the 6050/5050 and the VPL-295. The room is 26x16 and first row will be about 13ft from screen. One window in the room. I viewed the VPL-295 at a local HT store and was floored at how great it looked. Unfortunately they didn’t have a 6050/5050 to demo and compare. I went to my local BB and they had both setup to view on 90” screen. With minimal light, to my eye I couldn’t tell huge difference between them.
> 
> My question is most of my viewing is going to be streaming, 500+ and counting movies on Vudu, and live TV, mostly sports. Going min 120” screen. Is there anyone out there with similar content viewing that was looking at both Sony and Epson? Why did you decide on Epson?
> 
> Pics of my room attached





Justin Landers said:


> Sorry, it’s my first foray into projectors. Not blacking out the window, just blinds. Screen I’m going 120 or maybe 135 16:9, gray material screen. The walls will be a dark gray ( SW Peppercorn), ceiling white.
> 
> We watch a lot of movies and Sports my biggest concern from what I’ve read is the motion handling with the Epson. I haven’t found anywhere around me that has the Epson hooked up to live TV source to view.


Due to the raised floor section I’m getting the feeling this is more a dedicated home cinema room rather your typical family room, is this correct?

If so then I’d seriously rethink your ceiling colour, at least the section that isn’t the vaulted part, if you can do walls and the non-vaulted section a dark matt grey (as dark as possible) your screen image will benefit from it, also please buy yourself proper blackout curtains for the window. Another suggestion is carpet colour, you don’t have to go for a dark carpet as long as you fit a large black rug in front of the screen.

If you are sensitive to motion then definitely try and get a viewing of any projector, I mostly watch motorsport on mine but occasionally I have watched rugby which is a bit like American Football and didn’t notice any issues with motion but I’m not sensitive to this so can’t give you a definite answer on this.


----------



## Justin Landers

Luminated67 said:


> Justin Landers said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need some advice. Building out theater room in basement and Iâ€™️m torn between the 6050/5050 and the VPL-295. The room is 26x16 and first row will be about 13ft from screen. One window in the room. I viewed the VPL-295 at a local HT store and was floored at how great it looked. Unfortunately they didnâ€™️t have a 6050/5050 to demo and compare. I went to my local BB and they had both setup to view on 90â€ screen. With minimal light, to my eye I couldnâ€™️t tell huge difference between them.
> 
> My question is most of my viewing is going to be streaming, 500+ and counting movies on Vudu, and live TV, mostly sports. Going min 120â€ screen. Is there anyone out there with similar content viewing that was looking at both Sony and Epson? Why did you decide on Epson?
> 
> Pics of my room attached
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Justin Landers said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, itâ€™️s my first foray into projectors. Not blacking out the window, just blinds. Screen Iâ€™️m going 120 or maybe 135 16:9, gray material screen. The walls will be a dark gray ( SW Peppercorn), ceiling white.
> 
> We watch a lot of movies and Sports my biggest concern from what Iâ€™️ve read is the motion handling with the Epson. I havenâ€™️t found anywhere around me that has the Epson hooked up to live TV source to view.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Due to the raised floor section Iâ€™️m getting the feeling this is more a dedicated home cinema room rather your typical family room, is this correct?
> 
> If so then Iâ€™️d seriously rethink your ceiling colour, at least the section that isnâ€™️t the vaulted part, if you can do walls and the non-vaulted section a dark matt grey (as dark as possible) your screen image will benefit from it, also please buy yourself proper blackout curtains for the window. Another suggestion is carpet colour, you donâ€™️t have to go for a dark carpet as long as you fit a large black rug in front of the screen.
> 
> If you are sensitive to motion then definitely try and get a viewing of any projector, I mostly watch motorsport on mine but occasionally I have watched rugby which is a bit like American Football and didnâ€™️t notice any issues with motion but Iâ€™️m not sensitive to this so canâ€™️t give you a definite answer on this.
Click to expand...

After viewing the Epson I don’t think the extra $ is worth it for the Sony. Going to go with Epson. 

It will be a darker carpet and I have been thinking of also doing the ceiling the same darker color as the walls. Should have paint and flooring done within next couple of weeks.

Thanks for the feedback all


----------



## skylarlove1999

coderguy said:


> The NX-5 is ahead in every way, not sure a comparison is really valid at a store or HT place, there are external factors that almost always mess up those comparisons, differing brightness and other factors. If you can budget for the NX-5, then it's not much of a contest as that one is not only Native 4k like the Sony, but also sharper and better contrast than the Sony. Also, it has built-in dynamic tone mapping for HDR after a firmware upgrade. The Sony 295 shouldn't even be on the list unless you're getting it for a reduced price. Even the older JVC like the x790 (RS-540) easily beats those projectors in most cases, except the Sony is going to be a bit better at gaming, but the NX-5 is going to beat them in almost every category. The Epson is brighter, but you won't need it unless you are doing a giant screen over 140".


Even as a proud happy 6050 owner I would have to go with the NX5 or even better NX7. But the NX5 is closer in budget to the Sony or my Epson. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Maximum7

rekbones said:


> What's you source? If 4K enhancement is grayed out you must be sending a 4K source. Color space sounds like it is off as your getting crushed blacks and blown out whites.


I was sending a 4k signal from my roku and still grayed out. 

How do I fix the color space?


----------



## fredworld

Maximum7 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm fairly new to the projector game, and am having some "problems" with my image.
> 
> I just upgraded from a Epson 2150 to the 5050 after having the 2150 for over a year.
> 
> I have a Silver Ticket 106" white screen with a throw distance of 12.6'
> 
> My issue is the blacks and white are blooming to the point there is hardly any detail. For instance, if someone is wearing a black sportscoat, you can't see the lapels or buttons it just looks all black. Same with the whites. There is just a white area with no detail or anything.
> It's like this thing is searing my eyes. Everything is on "11" compared to my 2150...LOL.
> 
> I am running it in Natural mode. I have adjusted most of the settings other than the technical gamma stuff from "Alaric's" website. I've tried adjusting brightness and contrast to no avail. Plus things like 4k enhancement in the menu are greyed out. Why is that?
> 
> I am running sources thru a Marantz 6014 to the 5050, and have it set for just pass-thru.
> 
> I didn't have this with the 2150. Yes blacks are blacker and whites are whiter, but I can't see any detail now like I could with the 2150.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.



I know I'm repeating myself, so apologies to those who dislike rereading my mantra. I don't recommend using the projector settings of others. Every unit will respond differently depending on ambient light (if any), room colors, screen size, screen color AND screen material, throw distance, manufacturing variances and personal tastes. Consequently, the variables are many.

The best investment I made in my Epson 5050UB projector is the $40 I spent for the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc*. It's not a substitute for a professional calibration but the Benchmark disc is an excellent tool. Using just a few of the basic patterns (detailed on the S&M website above) got my projector's settings to a high satisfaction level without additional measuring equipment other than my eyeballs. After doing so, I felt no need for a professional calibration but I haven't ruled out one, yet, even with 750 hours on the lamp. A blue filter can be ordered from _*this site*_.
I hope this helps your journey.


----------



## schmidtwi

Justin Landers said:


> After viewing the Epson I don’t think the extra $ is worth it for the Sony. Going to go with Epson.
> 
> It will be a darker carpet and I have been thinking of also doing the ceiling the same darker color as the walls. Should have paint and flooring done within next couple of weeks.
> 
> Thanks for the feedback all



Great choice going with the Epson, you will not regret it. If I were you, I'd consider an AT scope screen with speakers behind the screen for many reasons - go BIG!!


----------



## coderguy

fredworld said:


> I know I'm repeating myself, so apologies to those who dislike rereading my mantra. I don't recommend using the projector settings of others. Every unit will respond differently depending on ambient light (if any), room colors, screen size, screen color AND screen material, throw distance, manufacturing variances and personal tastes. Consequently, the variables are many.


Not always, for those using total blackout rooms with Triple Black Velvet, almost all of our rooms have the same reflective color properties (really close). The screen will cause some error, but almost always under 5 dE, and usually under 3 dE. However, unit variance is the big issue even in this case, not sure how much variance there will be.

People should generally calibrate themselves, get them a cheap Spyder meter or a C6. If you can get a Spyder from someone that checked the accuracy of it in the forums ahead of time, then you'll have a really accurate cheap meter. The Spyder 4 Pro I had ordered was exactly the same as my NIST certified C6, I mean less than 0.3 dE off, crazy close. It's not as good in dark scenes, but everything above 20 IRE was almost identical. So in that sense, it definitely is possible to get a perfectly accurate Spyder.


----------



## Justin Landers

schmidtwi said:


> Justin Landers said:
> 
> 
> 
> After viewing the Epson I donâ€™️t think the extra $ is worth it for the Sony. Going to go with Epson.
> 
> It will be a darker carpet and I have been thinking of also doing the ceiling the same darker color as the walls. Should have paint and flooring done within next couple of weeks.
> 
> Thanks for the feedback all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great choice going with the Epson, you will not regret it. If I were you, I'd consider an AT scope screen with speakers behind the screen for many reasons - go BIG!!
Click to expand...

With you on AT, going with Deftech UIW RLS II’s for LCR.


----------



## WestCDA

Maximum7 said:


> It looks like there is a 2nd Edition. Which is $10 cheaper...Which one should I get?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Spears-Munsi...EVHPQREEG63&psc=1&refRID=YNS4C3NZ4EVHPQREEG63
> 
> Per a review it looks like they give you some glasses to wear as well? Do I need to buy the Blue Filter?


The cheaper one is not UHD.


----------



## Maximum7

fredworld said:


> The best investment I made in my Epson 5050UB projector is the $40 I spent for the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc*. It's not a substitute for a professional calibration but the Benchmark disc is an excellent tool. Using just a few of the basic patterns (detailed on the S&M website above) got my projector's settings to a high satisfaction level without additional measuring equipment other than my eyeballs. After doing so, I felt no need for a professional calibration but I haven't ruled out one, yet, even with 750 hours on the lamp. A blue filter can be ordered from _*this site*_.
> I hope this helps your journey.



It looks like there is a 2nd Edition. Which is $10 cheaper...Which one should I get? 

https://www.amazon.com/Spears-Munsi...EVHPQREEG63&psc=1&refRID=YNS4C3NZ4EVHPQREEG63

Per a review it looks like they give you some glasses to wear as well? Do I need to buy the Blue Filter?


----------



## Maximum7

WestCDA said:


> The cheaper one is not UHD.



Missed that. Thank you!


----------



## fredworld

Maximum7 said:


> It looks like there is a 2nd Edition. Which is $10 cheaper...Which one should I get?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Spears-Munsi...EVHPQREEG63&psc=1&refRID=YNS4C3NZ4EVHPQREEG63
> 
> Per a review it looks like they give you some glasses to wear as well? Do I need to buy the Blue Filter?



The cheaper one is the standard Blu-ray edition.You should get the *UHD edition*.
Yes, you need a blue filter because the Epson 5050UB doesn't have a "blue only" mode as many UHD TV's do.


----------



## Maximum7

So I took two pics. 
First one is from the Epson 2150. The second is from the 5050. Just a a HD Broadcast from Cable from "America's Got Talent".


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Even as a proud happy 6050 owner I would have to go with the NX5 or even better NX7. But the NX5 is closer in budget to the Sony or my Epson.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Have to agree with you here, if you can afford the extra cost it would be stupid not to see if it better suits your requirements.


----------



## aeneas01

6050ub
160" screen
nuc8i7beh
igpu - iris plus graphics 655
windows 10/64

have any of you guys with a pc + igpu tried to feed your projector 4k hdr files (24fps) with your pc display set to 1920 x 1080 59hz?

with my display set to 3840 x 2160, 59hz, 8-bit dither, rgb (apparently the highest i can go with my nuc) and hdr enabled, it was pretty much impossible to get madvr to play nicely with 4k 24fps files, lots of dropped frames even with the most modest settings, coupled with a 90%+ gpu load when playing 4k files.

but as a test i switched my display output to 1920x1080, 59hz, 10-bit, rgb, hdr enabled, and madvr worked butter smooth, even with aggressive settings, and with the gpu load ranging from just 30%-40%.

the kicker is, 4k hdr files still look absolutely fantastic at the 1920 x 1080 59hz output setting, but sans the frame drop stutter and and enormous igpu load - frankly, my hdr files look every bit as good as they did when my display was set to 3840 x 2160 59hz.

so what's the deal here? am i blind? or do 4k hdr files at 1920 x 1080 look great because i'm able to use better madvr settings? is it because the 6050ub is actually a native 1080p projector with pixel shift and not a native 4k projector? is it because the 6050ub's "4k enhancement" does such a great with 1920 x 1080 inputs?


----------



## Pretorian

Justin Landers said:


> I appreciate all feedback from this forum. I was looking more for advice on the projector equipment. I’m pretty comfortable with my build out of the room, this isn’t going to be a bat cave. The wall that has the cables coming out is where the screen will go and initially I was going to put in custom cabinets in on that wall but have since changed my mind to where just PJ screen will be there and in wall speakers or towers out front to the sides. I have an AV company coming out tomorrow to look at the space, they are both Epson and Sony dealer. I was able to see the Sony with live TV I just haven’t been able to see the Epson anywhere with a live TV source.
> 
> My last basement I had a much smaller room and had the custom cabinets and a 65”.


I have the 6050 and am very happy with it. I can get my room pretty dark but I still want the kids to watch streaming hockey or something else with a little more light on. 

I have dark walls and white ceiling. It works like a charm because I dont want a pitch black living room.

For me the 6050 have no problem with streaming sports or with gaming (Xbox One X). It works the best when I use my blinds and watching a movie.

(The image from "Solo" is with my old PJ)


----------



## aeneas01

Pretorian said:


> I have the 6050 and am very happy with it. I can get my room pretty dark but I still want the kids to watch streaming hockey or something else with a little more light on.
> 
> I have dark walls and white ceiling. It works like a charm because I dont want a pitch black living room.
> 
> For me the 6050 have no problem with streaming sports or with gaming (Xbox One X). It works the best when I use my blinds and watching a movie.
> 
> (The image from "Solo" is with my old PJ)


called a contractor to get a quote on my paint job, told him it was an interior job, all walls, and he asked me what color i had in mind - he then said wait, don't tell me, you want gray right? i laughed and said how in the hell did you know? and he responded that 80% of his jobs now involved gray, ha ha... anyway, like yours, the gray looks fantastic in my room....


----------



## Ladeback

aeneas01 said:


> called a contractor to get a quote on my paint job, told him it was an interior job, all walls, and he asked me what color i had in mind - he then said wait, don't tell me, you want gray right? i laughed and said how in the hell did you know? and he responded that 80% of his jobs now involved gray, ha ha... anyway, like yours, the gray looks fantastic in my room....


My wife would call that color taupe, but I call it gray. Our master bedroom is dark gray and master bath light gray. Our living room is a darker shade of beige.


----------



## MississippiMan

aeneas01 said:


> called a contractor to get a quote on my paint job, told him it was an interior job, all walls, and he asked me what color i had in mind - he then said wait, don't tell me, you want gray right? i laughed and said how in the hell did you know? and he responded that 80% of his jobs now involved gray, ha ha... anyway, like yours, the gray looks fantastic in my room....



I blame myself...........


----------



## aeneas01

MississippiMan said:


> I blame myself...........


grey took hold, for interior and exterior, for residential and especially commercial, in my neck of the woods (northern cal) quite a while ago, and there doesn't seem to be any slowing down.... i think the gray/orange graphics used for websites that was the rage quite a few years ago drove a lot of it....


----------



## Luminated67

With the exception of two rooms my entire house interior is done in some shade of grey. LOL 

Only the small WC and entrance hall are different.


----------



## dr bill

Maximum7 said:


> So I took two pics.
> First one is from the Epson 2150. The second is from the 5050. Just a a HD Broadcast from Cable from "America's Got Talent".


Now I know what my nightmare will be about tonight...


----------



## plain fan

Questions for the owners of the Epson 5050/6050. I finally had the opportunity to AB the Epson 6050 and the JVC NX5 this weekend at a Magnolia Design Center with a very knowledgeable employee. I spent two hours with him going back and forth between the two projectors watching Planet Earth 2 on UHD and Oblivion on UHD. We also watched a little bit of Tron Legacy on blu-ray. He turned off all the lights and was projecting to a 100" screen. The disc source was the Panasonic UB820.

My impressions were the the color looked "right" on the JVC versus the Epson but if I wasn't going back and forth I would probably not have noticed. The reds and greens appeared a bit over saturated on the Epson. We watched the "Cities" portion of the Planet Earth 2 disc where they are filming with night vision to show the jaguars hunting and taking piglets from a pack of wild pigs. My question is this, do any owners of the 5050/6050 have this disc? Were the night vision scenes red? I ask because when we switched to the JVC the same scenes were noticeably gray and not red. Is this just a poorly adjusted projector? The guy admitted that neither projector had been calibrated beyond the basics of using a setup disc.

We also went back and forth on detailed scenes and the Epson did look softer compared to JVC at 7' from the screen. Both on 4k discs and Tron Legacy in 1080p. Tron was upscaled by the Panasonic to 4k to both projectors and the Epson was not as sharp. This would be due to the difference in the native 4k of the JVC versus the E-shift of the Epson, correct?

When switching from Planet Earth 2 to Oblivion the differences between the two were very subtle. However, with both discs, points of light in the image (windows at night, fires, etc) were different. On the Epson the lights weren't really "points" more like blobs of light compared to the JVC which were more "points." Could this have been how the two projectors handle HDR highlights or is it back to the difference in E-shift versus native 4k?

When it came to contrast both were very close. Yes, the JVC handled dark scenes very well, while the Epson was a little bit brighter in the same scenes. But I'm not sure if calibrating the two would have produced closer results. Again, if I wasn't viewing them back to back, I'm not sure that I would remember the differences between the two.

I wasn't able to play with the HDR slider on the Epson and the JVC was running the latest firmware with DTM enabled. The two projectors were very close and if I wasn't switching back and forth, I'm not sure that I would have easily remembered the differences.

And a final question, if I were to go back with demo discs of my own. What would be recommended to help evaluate the differences? I'm looking for 4k disc recommendations.

Many thanks in advance


----------



## HTX^2steve

plain fan said:


> Questions for the owners of the Epson 5050/6050. I finally had the opportunity to AB the Epson 6050 and the JVC NX5 this weekend at a Magnolia Design Center with a very knowledgeable employee. I spent two hours with him going back and forth between the two projectors watching Planet Earth 2 on UHD and Oblivion on UHD. We also watched a little bit of Tron Legacy on blu-ray. He turned off all the lights and was projecting to a 100" screen. The disc source was the Panasonic UB820.
> 
> My impressions were the the color looked "right" on the JVC versus the Epson but if I wasn't going back and forth I would probably not have noticed. The reds and greens appeared a bit over saturated on the Epson. We watched the "Cities" portion of the Planet Earth 2 disc where they are filming with night vision to show the jaguars hunting and taking piglets from a pack of wild pigs. My question is this, do any owners of the 5050/6050 have this disc? Were the night vision scenes red? I ask because when we switched to the JVC the same scenes were noticeably gray and not red. Is this just a poorly adjusted projector? The guy admitted that neither projector had been calibrated beyond the basics of using a setup disc.
> 
> We also went back and forth on detailed scenes and the Epson did look softer compared to JVC at 7' from the screen. Both on 4k discs and Tron Legacy in 1080p. Tron was upscaled by the Panasonic to 4k to both projectors and the Epson was not as sharp. This would be due to the difference in the native 4k of the JVC versus the E-shift of the Epson, correct?
> 
> When switching from Planet Earth 2 to Oblivion the differences between the two were very subtle. However, with both discs, points of light in the image (windows at night, fires, etc) were different. On the Epson the lights weren't really "points" more like blobs of light compared to the JVC which were more "points." Could this have been how the two projectors handle HDR highlights or is it back to the difference in E-shift versus native 4k?
> 
> When it came to contrast both were very close. Yes, the JVC handled dark scenes very well, while the Epson was a little bit brighter in the same scenes. But I'm not sure if calibrating the two would have produced closer results. Again, if I wasn't viewing them back to back, I'm not sure that I would remember the differences between the two.
> 
> I wasn't able to play with the HDR slider on the Epson and the JVC was running the latest firmware with DTM enabled. The two projectors were very close and if I wasn't switching back and forth, I'm not sure that I would have easily remembered the differences.
> 
> And a final question, if I were to go back with demo discs of my own. What would be recommended to help evaluate the differences? I'm looking for 4k disc recommendations.
> 
> Many thanks in advance


From how you explained it...it sounds like a very close comparison. With those differences you saw between the two on the Epson you could dial in or out depending on your preferences. But dollar for features the Epson should sway you to the Epson side just that the Epson would be a tad bit more versatile with features that the JVC doesn't have.

Great review..2 hours with a best buy salesperson...impressive. I can never hold their attention for 2 minutes and never can find one if I am not buying.


----------



## fredworld

plain fan said:


> Questions for the owners of the Epson 5050/6050. I finally had the opportunity to AB the Epson 6050 and the JVC NX5 this weekend at a Magnolia Design Center with a very knowledgeable employee. I spent two hours with him going back and forth between the two projectors watching Planet Earth 2 on UHD and Oblivion on UHD. We also watched a little bit of Tron Legacy on blu-ray. He turned off all the lights and was projecting to a 100" screen. The disc source was the Panasonic UB820.
> 
> My impressions were the the color looked "right" on the JVC versus the Epson but if I wasn't going back and forth I would probably not have noticed. The reds and greens appeared a bit over saturated on the Epson. We watched the "Cities" portion of the Planet Earth 2 disc where they are filming with night vision to show the jaguars hunting and taking piglets from a pack of wild pigs. My question is this, do any owners of the 5050/6050 have this disc? Were the night vision scenes red? I ask because when we switched to the JVC the same scenes were noticeably gray and not red. Is this just a poorly adjusted projector? The guy admitted that neither projector had been calibrated beyond the basics of using a setup disc.
> 
> We also went back and forth on detailed scenes and the Epson did look softer compared to JVC at 7' from the screen. Both on 4k discs and Tron Legacy in 1080p. Tron was upscaled by the Panasonic to 4k to both projectors and the Epson was not as sharp. This would be due to the difference in the native 4k of the JVC versus the E-shift of the Epson, correct?
> 
> When switching from Planet Earth 2 to Oblivion the differences between the two were very subtle. However, with both discs, points of light in the image (windows at night, fires, etc) were different. On the Epson the lights weren't really "points" more like blobs of light compared to the JVC which were more "points." Could this have been how the two projectors handle HDR highlights or is it back to the difference in E-shift versus native 4k?
> 
> When it came to contrast both were very close. Yes, the JVC handled dark scenes very well, while the Epson was a little bit brighter in the same scenes. But I'm not sure if calibrating the two would have produced closer results. Again, if I wasn't viewing them back to back, I'm not sure that I would remember the differences between the two.
> 
> I wasn't able to play with the HDR slider on the Epson and the JVC was running the latest firmware with DTM enabled. The two projectors were very close and if I wasn't switching back and forth, I'm not sure that I would have easily remembered the differences.
> 
> And a final question, if I were to go back with demo discs of my own. What would be recommended to help evaluate the differences? I'm looking for 4k disc recommendations.
> 
> Many thanks in advance





HTX^2steve said:


> From how you explained it...it sounds like a very close comparison. With those differences you saw between the two on the Epson you could dial in or out depending on your preferences. But dollar for features the Epson should sway you to the Epson side just that the Epson would be a tad bit more versatile with features that the JVC doesn't have.
> 
> Great review..2 hours with a best buy salesperson...impressive. I can never hold their attention for 2 minutes and never can find one if I am not buying.



Excellent leg work. You're doing the right thing by not buying on impulse, esp., after two hours and taking more time to get input to help make the right choice for you. 



I'll try to answer what questions I can.
You might want to confirm that the JVC NX5 has the firmware update announced last year for dynamic tone mapping. If it doesn't then it should only perform better after it's installed.
I'd also check that the Epson has its color alignment spot on. There's a "pattern" accessible from the remote that will display white lines to check to see if the lines are a solid white or if there is color fringing. If there are color fringes, try correcting it. The salesman should be able to do that within a few seconds. I mention the color alignment because it can be the cause of the blurring you mentioned or it could be as you suspected, i.e. the difference in e-shifting and native 4K, the differences are more apparent on very large screen or when viewing at very close distances. At a normal seating distance, reportedly from reviews, the differences vary from indistinguishable to negligible.



I'd pop in the test disc they used to check to see if each projector is properly set up. I know the Epson lacks a "blue" setting for checking and adjusting the color pattern but I don't know about the JVC. Alternatively, I'd use the *Spears&Munsil UHD Benchmark disc* and get the *blue filter* for it, if BB doesn't have both. If the salesman knows his projectors then he can make the basic adjustments for contrast, black level, color, tint and sharpness within a few minutes. This disc has superb demo material, so if the projectors are adjusted to where you are comparing apple to apples, then you'll have a better evaluation platform.



Check to see if the Epson is in High IRIS mode or not. I like that mode despite the pumping in fade to blacks. Try different settings of the IRIS. Check the HDR 10 setting. It's probably at its default setting but experimenting with the HDR slider a notch or two can yield more satisfying results. 

Is the Epson projector in High or ECO mode? ECO will be dimmer.
Color temperature setting could be set too high causing the saturation you're seeing in the Epson, or the Color setting could be too high if not adjusted properly with the test disc.
As for clarity, I slightly prefer my Epson's up-conversion of Standard Blurays over my Panasonic 820's up-conversion. But YMMV.

Be sure the "soap opera effect" is OFF on both projectors. That would be Frame Interpolation on the Epson and can only be activated with a 1080P/24hz input, otherwise the Frame Interpolation selection in the Menu will be grayed out with 4K signals.
Finally, I also, had the choice to buy either of these projectors and decided on the Epson 5050 UB based on its feature set of 10 memory and lens settings as I have legacy sources that I still utilize, my room set up and the $2799 price.

I hope this helps. Good luck with your purchase decision.


----------



## Luminated67

The difference in colours sounds like one is better calibrated that the other, when both are professionally calibrated there shouldn’t really be any difference in colours. With HDR content you really need to adjust the slider to get the right bright so you could have probably got an even closer comparison had you had been able to adjust it. 

You comment about blacks and contrast are exactly the same as my experience, where I differed was I didn’t get a side by side comparison but in my opinion the JVC was a little better but by no means was the difference night and day, it was subtle enough to convince me that I was happy the my purchase and saving ££££.


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## SALadder22FF

So I've got my 5050 screen close to dialed in aspect wise on my 120" SI Zero Edge but the left side is higher and the right is spot on. When I zoom it messes everything up. My projector is hanging from the ceiling.

Do I need to lower one side of the projector from the mount or what?

I know I'll never probably get it perfectly aligned with the zero edge but any help I would appreciate.









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

^Your Mount should have adjust to align this.


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## fredworld

Luminated67 said:


> ^Your Mount should have adjust to align this.



Adjust the mount but it's difficult for me to tell from your pics as it MIGHT be a keystone distortion. Presuming your screen is flush with the wall and level, I'd measure the geometry of the pattern to be sure that's symmetrically correct.


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## Hawkmarket

So I'm going to be that guy and not go back through 169 pages. Is there a recommended 40 foot HDMI cable that will work with the 5050 or is the recommended route using ethernet with an HDBaseT thingy and HDMI on either end. Forgive the technical term.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> So I'm going to be that guy and not go back through 169 pages. Is there a recommended 40 foot HDMI cable that will work with the 5050 or is the recommended route using ethernet with an HDBaseT thingy and HDMI on either end. Forgive the technical term.


https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-4K60H...+hdmi+fiber+cable+40+ft&qid=1579117904&sr=8-3

Many people love this one. Other people have had success with regular cable from Blue Jeans. Good luck.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Hawkmarket said:


> So I'm going to be that guy and not go back through 169 pages. Is there a recommended 40 foot HDMI cable that will work with the 5050 or is the recommended route using ethernet with an HDBaseT thingy and HDMI on either end. Forgive the technical term.


You NEED an optical HDMI, there’s loads of different brands at different price points I am using one of if not the cheapest and have done with zero issues for over a year now. According to a telecoms engineer the way fibre cables are they either work or they don’t so in his opinion one is as good as another so why pay more than you need.

There’s one that’s cheap at the moment

https://www.amazon.com/Zoxkoy-HDMI-...ft&qid=1579118206&sprefix=otpical+HDMI&sr=8-5


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## Hawkmarket

Luminated67 said:


> You NEED an optical HDMI, there’s loads of different brands at different price points I am using one of if not the cheapest and have done with zero issues for over a year now. According to a telecoms engineer the way fibre cables are they either work or they don’t so in his opinion one is as good as another so why pay more than you need.
> 
> There’s one that’s cheap at the moment
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Zoxkoy-HDMI-...ft&qid=1579118206&sprefix=otpical+HDMI&sr=8-5


My biggest concern is reliability once I get it fished through so if that means I pay a premium I'll gladly do that. Is the one Sklyar recommended not optical?


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## biglen

Hawkmarket said:


> So I'm going to be that guy and not go back through 169 pages. Is there a recommended 40 foot HDMI cable that will work with the 5050 or is the recommended route using ethernet with an HDBaseT thingy and HDMI on either end. Forgive the technical term.


Get the Series 3 Active. I tried a bunch of cables for my 40 ft run, and ended up returning all the overpriced ones, because the BJC worked just as good. 

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## aeneas01

biglen said:


> Get the Series 3 Active. I tried a bunch of cables for my 40 ft run, and ended up returning all the overpriced ones, because the BJC worked just as good.
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 yep, couldn't agree more, tried about 6 different highly rated active cables from amazon that i eventually had to return, they just couldn't hold the connection in my particular setup, image would display for 20-30 secs and then drop out, rinse and repeat... the bjc locked on like a pit bull from the moment i connected it and has never let go... the bjc is also a lot more beefier than the other active cables i tried, it's almost like a heavily shielded rg-11 coaxial cable, which makes it a bit more difficult to work with in terms of space behind your component and or projector, it's not as relaxed / flexible as other hdmi cables...

here are a few i tried from amazon but returned:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MT4Y6DP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759CXK4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0757D7N24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IKKQ8M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Luminated67

Hawkmarket said:


> My biggest concern is reliability once I get it fished through so if that means I pay a premium I'll gladly do that. Is the one Sklyar recommended not optical?


Yes it is but like I said they either work or they don’t. Due to the very nature of fibre you have to be careful feeding them through ducting and try not to kink or allow it to do a sharp bend.

If you feel more comfortable spending more then do so, I’m only telling you what I was told from someone who specialises in it and using it every day.

BTW my optical HDMI runs between my projector and the AVR, never had any handshake issues.


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## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> My biggest concern is reliability once I get it fished through so if that means I pay a premium I'll gladly do that. Is the one Sklyar recommended not optical?


The blue jeans cable is not Optical the one I link to from Ruipro is optical. As you can see by the responses different cables have worked for different people. I use a Furui fiber optic cable I got from Amazon. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> The blue jeans cable is not Optical the one I link to from Ruipro is optical. As you can see by the responses different cables have worked for different people. I use a Furui fiber optic cable I got from Amazon.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Well......I don't have to fish the HDMI cable and ceiling mount the projector right away so it would probably make sense to give it a week or 2 to see if any issues arise and if not then look to the more permanent solution of pulling it through the ceiling. Thanks for all the help from everyone. These boards deliver as usual.


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## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> Well......I don't have to fish the HDMI cable and ceiling mount the projector right away so it would probably make sense to give it a week or 2 to see if any issues arise and if not then look to the more permanent solution of pulling it through the ceiling. Thanks for all the help from everyone. These boards deliver as usual.


If possible, I would hang conduit for the entire run in the ceiling . That way in the event the cable ever needs to be replaced it is just a matter of taping the beginning of the new cable to the end of the old one and just pulling new cable through the conduit. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## SALadder22FF

fredworld said:


> Adjust the mount but it's difficult for me to tell from your pics as it MIGHT be a keystone distortion. Presuming your screen is flush with the wall and level, I'd measure the geometry of the pattern to be sure that's symmetrically correct.


No keystone being used. Everything is Level. There are little washer type pieces in the four pieces that connect to the mount and you can screw up or down. Adjusting these and then using the remote have almost got me there. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## BIC2

Luminated67 said:


> Also in case anyone is questioning what the contrast is like on the Epson I took a photo last week to show what my black borders look like in my bat cave.
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmi8rla6xpkhz2t/Photo 01-01-2020, 19 48 55.jpg?dl=0
> 
> This is a 100% accurate image of what you see with the naked eye, it’s visible but certainly not something that draws your attention.


I concur, my 6050 top/bottom gray bars are about the same. Unfortunately, it does draw my attention--but not my wife's.


----------



## BIC2

coderguy said:


> Most AV companies are just going to try to sell you a bunch of junk you don't need, not all, just most.


Not to get off topic, but I found that the AV dealers want to sell you their main line products, regardless whether that's the best options for your situation. It's the best option they have to offer. I don't blame them, that how they sell products.

For example, I told the local dealer subwoofer size was no object for my dedicated HT. Nonetheless, he wanted to sell me JL Audio subs. Well, they make mighty fine subs, but small & expensive. I got way more bang for my buck with JTR subs because they're big and relatively inexpensive. The fact of life is small, quality subs cost more than large, quality subs. The only reason to get a small sub is aesthetics.


----------



## [email protected]

Hi All,

I am the new owner of a 5050UB and did not expect to post here so quickly. After a few days of having my projector up and running, it shutdown twice on its own last night. The power light was blinking blue as it shutdown.

The only connection is from HDMI 1 to an Xbox One S. 

My next step is to hit up Epson support, but thought I'd troll the forums first.

Thanks in advance.

-D


----------



## fredworld

[email protected] said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I am the new owner of a 5050UB and did not expect to post here so quickly. After a few days of having my projector up and running, it shutdown twice on its own last night. The power light was blinking blue as it shutdown.
> 
> The only connection is from HDMI 1 to an Xbox One S.
> 
> My next step is to hit up Epson support, but thought I'd troll the forums first.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> -D



The blinking light is just a signal that the projector is shutting down. 

I'd get on Epson about the shut down issues as it could be a faulty power supply in the projector. Also, check your power line. Be sure it's a non-fluctuating 110-120V. Is it a dedicated line just for the projector or are other power hungry appliances drawing power from it, too?
Are you at a high altitude? If so, you might need to engage the High Altitude Mode.


----------



## dr bill

[email protected] said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I am the new owner of a 5050UB and did not expect to post here so quickly. After a few days of having my projector up and running, it shutdown twice on its own last night. The power light was blinking blue as it shutdown.
> 
> The only connection is from HDMI 1 to an Xbox One S.
> 
> My next step is to hit up Epson support, but thought I'd troll the forums first.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> -D


I recommend hitting up Epson support. They will walk you through some trouble shooting steps, and if those don't fix the issue, they will send you a refirb replacement. Good customer support from Epson!


----------



## jaredmwright

Also check the HDMI CEC settings, it could be receiving a command from something else.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

dr bill said:


> [email protected] said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I am the new owner of a 5050UB and did not expect to post here so quickly. After a few days of having my projector up and running, it shutdown twice on its own last night. The power light was blinking blue as it shutdown.
> 
> The only connection is from HDMI 1 to an Xbox One S.
> 
> My next step is to hit up Epson support, but thought I'd troll the forums first.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> -D
> 
> 
> 
> I recommend hitting up Epson support. They will walk you through some trouble shooting steps, and if those don't fix the issue, they will send you a refirb replacement. Good customer support from Epson!
Click to expand...

FYI, since you just recently purchased your 5050, don't accept a refurb replacement. You paid the premium for a new unit (over the discount of a refurb) so you should get a new unit. There are many reports in this thread of refurbs with issues. So, Epson's refurb QC process is suspect.

If you can't solve the issue with Epson support, talk with your dealer about returning for a replacement with a new unit. And better yet ask for an advanced exchange, so you can setup an try the new unit before returning the old one. If your dealer doesn't support that request, then ask Epson for a new unit instead of a refurb (and also, for the next time you go to buy an Epson, find a different Epson dealer that will do advanced exchanges for a new unit).


----------



## fredworld

Hawkmarket said:


> So I'm going to be that guy and not go back through 169 pages. Is there a recommended 40 foot HDMI cable that will work with the 5050 or is the recommended route using ethernet with an HDBaseT thingy and HDMI on either end. Forgive the technical term.



*This is the 40' version* of the 35' one that I'm using. My 35' length works great. I was using the *Titan 50'* for a while but, although it performed superbly I got tired of looking at the 15 extra feet of coiled cable next to my equipment cabinet so I returned it.


----------



## DRaven72

jaredmwright said:


> Also check the HDMI CEC settings, it could be receiving a command from something else.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Right here. My 4000 would shut down for no reason till i figured out CEC was on, and Apple 4K TV was shutting it off every time it went into sleep mode. lol Gave me fits for a minute.


----------



## noob00224

SALadder22FF said:


> No keystone being used. Everything is Level. There are little washer type pieces in the four pieces that connect to the mount and you can screw up or down. Adjusting these and then using the remote have almost got me there.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The walls themselves might not be perfectly level, uniform. 

This is why a black border is used.


----------



## aeneas01

noob00224 said:


> The walls themselves might not be perfectly level, uniform.
> 
> This is why a black border is used.


 that's what i was thinking... or the screen might not be, in fact, perfectly flat... my notion of what a perfectly flat wall and screen looked like changed completely when i demoed a laser projector, talk about an eye opener, to the naked eye everything looked spot on level but it wasn't, and just barely touching the screen, barely moving it forward or backwards at different points, zeroed things in... bulb projectors are so much more forgiving, it's really not even close, nonetheless the issue could be caused by the same thing.


----------



## Luminated67

BIC2 said:


> Not to get off topic, but I found that the AV dealers want to sell you their main line products, regardless whether that's the best options for your situation. It's the best option they have to offer. I don't blame them, that how they sell products.
> 
> For example, I told the local dealer subwoofer size was no object for my dedicated HT. Nonetheless, he wanted to sell me JL Audio subs. Well, they make mighty fine subs, but small & expensive. I got way more bang for my buck with JTR subs because they're big and relatively inexpensive. The fact of life is small, quality subs cost more than large, quality subs. The only reason to get a small sub is aesthetics.


Use to deal with JL subs when I had a car audio shop, in my opinion one of the best most musical brands out there and punched more per size than some others. What size of subs did you end up getting and how big is your room?


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## HTX^2steve

BIC2 said:


> I concur, my 6050 top/bottom gray bars are about the same. Unfortunately, it does draw my attention--but not my wife's.


Oh no no no...I hated that black bar effect and it was noticeable for me and very distracting. Here is a very over exposed picture of my screen since I keep the theater room very dark. 

My solution was to two fold. I created a top triple velvet mask for 2:35 content and had to drape another velvet mask to the bottom of the screen to mask out the other contrast bar. It does make a difference! More of a pop with the image on the screen. I use the lens shift memory for 2:35 and 16:9 content which is great and all I have to do is hop up and remove the top mask.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Luminated67 said:


> Use deal with JL subs when I had a car audio shop, in my opinion one of the best most musical brands out there and punched more per size than some others. What size of subs did you end up getting and how big is your room?


I also come from the land of car audio and custom made my own 4-13.5in JL -Audio sub 12CuFt. enclosure Still holding up great and the bass is amazing!


----------



## Luminated67

HTX^2steve said:


> Oh no no no...I hated that black bar effect and it was noticeable for me and very distracting. Here is a very over exposed picture of my screen since I keep the theater room very dark.
> 
> My solution was to two fold. I created a top triple velvet mask for 2:35 content and had to drape another velvet mask to the bottom of the screen to mask out the other contrast bar. It does make a difference! More of a pop with the image on the screen. I use the lens shift memory for 2:35 and 16:9 content which is great and all I have to do is hop up and remove the top mask.


It’s my intention to buy a 21:9 screen soon, don’t watch enough 16:9 TV to warrant keeping that format and when I do watch any 16:9 I don’t think the black side bars will be as noticeable.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Luminated67 said:


> It’s my intention to buy a 21:9 screen soon, don’t watch enough 16:9 TV to warrant keeping that format and when I do watch any 16:9 I don’t think the black side bars will be as noticeable.


Yea...cool...that would be another way. I come from the land of economics and the 16:9 screens are way cheaper. Both masks cost me total like $80. Take pics when you complete that.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Alright my people I'm down to the 5050 or the 6050. I'm not really concerned about all the other things that come with the 6050 (I have a mount, indifferent about color etc.) but I will pay for optics. Any strong opinions from the masses on paying a $600 premium for the 6050?


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## fredworld

Hawkmarket said:


> Alright my people I'm down to the 5050 or the 6050. I'm not really concerned about all the other things that come with the 6050 (I have a mount, indifferent about color etc.) but I will pay for optics. Any strong opinions from the masses on paying a $600 premium for the 6050?



At the time (May 2019) I would have gone for the 6050 for the cherry picked lenses but it was a $1200 premium then (the 5050 just price dropped to $2799). I had a mount and with a 5000 hour lamp life I was in no hurry for a back up lamp although the black casing was attractive I figured if I was going to spend $1200 more I'd go full native 4K with a JVC for $2K more and just forego the other equipment upgrades I planned. But I'm very happy with the choices I made. Good luck on your journey.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Hawkmarket said:


> Alright my people I'm down to the 5050 or the 6050. I'm not really concerned about all the other things that come with the 6050 (I have a mount, indifferent about color etc.) but I will pay for optics. Any strong opinions from the masses on paying a $600 premium for the 6050?


5050...done. Easy...Happy movie watching!


----------



## pete ramberg

Reference-quality 4K movie question:

Speaking of 'happy movie watching', I currently use "Passengers" as my 4k reference movie to show off the 5050 to guests (or myself!). It is a 4k-mastered disc shot digitally in 4k. I think it really shows off the projector.

I am wondering what you folks would use as your reference-quality 4k disc?? It would be important to have a copy from a 4k digital intermediate, IMHO, and shot in 4k.

What say you guys??







HTX^2steve said:


> 5050...done. Easy...Happy movie watching!


----------



## BIC2

Luminated67 said:


> Use to deal with JL subs when I had a car audio shop, in my opinion one of the best most musical brands out there and punched more per size than some others. What size of subs did you end up getting and how big is your room?


Room is 4800 cu ft. Two JTR Captivator 118HT do the trick. The dealer recommended JL Audio E-112s would have been inadequate and more money for less performance. To get JLs comparable to the JTRs, I think would have cost me twice as much. Not dissing JL, they're great products, just that there's much better values out there from the manufacturer direct companies.


----------



## BIC2

SALadder22FF said:


> So I've got my 5050 screen close to dialed in aspect wise on my 120" SI Zero Edge but the left side is higher and the right is spot on. When I zoom it messes everything up. My projector is hanging from the ceiling.
> 
> Do I need to lower one side of the projector from the mount or what?
> 
> I know I'll never probably get it perfectly aligned with the zero edge but any help I would appreciate.


I'm having a similar problem. Best I can tell, everything is plumb, square & level. I've adjusted the roll on the Chief mount--not the problem. There is a very slight bulge in the upper right wall where the screen mount hanger is. Had to use 1/16" or 1/8" washer to fix that. Other than that everything is almost perfect. Wall is flat, screen is square. I have to pull the bottom right corner out more than an inch before that makes a very slight difference (not enough for a cure). Nothing can be that far out of whack with the wall or screen. I'm pretty perplexed. Probably need to call Epson.


----------



## fredworld

BIC2 said:


> I'm having a similar problem. Best I can tell, everything is plumb, square & level. I've adjusted the roll on the Chief mount--not the problem. There is a very slight bulge in the upper right wall where the screen mount hanger is. Had to use 1/16" or 1/8" washer to fix that. Other than that everything is almost perfect. Wall is flat, screen is square. I have to pull the bottom right corner out more than an inch before that makes a very slight difference (not enough for a cure). Nothing can be that far out of whack with the wall or screen. I'm pretty perplexed. Probably need to call Epson.



Those last tweaks are always murderous. I had a similar issue for about my first month with my 5050 until I did some concentrated and thoughtful eyeballing. It's a matter of iteratively adjusting the keystone of the projector and the pitch/yaw/roll of the mount. It takes time and must be done in small steps. Get it a little bit better with each small increment each time until you get it right. Perhaps because I've had experience with color aligning my Ampro CRT projector ages ago, I learned that adjusting one area will effect the alignment of its opposite area. Be patient with it but, as always, I could be wrong in your instance, so contacting Epson isn't a bad idea.
I've included a very poor phone shot of mine.


----------



## plain fan

Thank you all for the comments on my questions.

Yes, I was shocked to get two hours. The guy was a designer and kept telling me it wasn't a problem and he's had guys come in multiple times just to AB different projectors. He did say that I obviously had done my research and knew what to look for when evaluating the two projectors.

I'm not sure if I could get them to tweak the settings. Control for the projectors, receivers, pre/pros, amps, speakers, subs, etc are all running through a single touch screen device, like an iPad. If I got back I'll see if I can check the settings on the epson projector. He did confirm to me that the JVC was running the latest firmware and he knew what it was and what it did.

The "softness" between the two is probably the difference in 4k versus Eshift as I saw it everything we watched. It was just easier to describe it to the forum members with the "points of light" example because it was there in every similar shot. If I can get access to the controls I'll look to see if the Epson's panels are aligned and what the iris is set to. In the Blu-Ray of Tron Legacy the softness represented itself in the small geometric patterns of their costumes. The light issue was also consistent across the movie. The light cycle battle demonstrated this throughout and these lights weren't "points" as they were more like neon signs. The Epson bloomed more and wasn't as tight as the JVC. *Would this support the idea that the panels weren't aligned?*

I evaluated the projectors at 7 feet and 10 feet. Seven feet since that's the calculated distance to see the difference in 4k versus 1080p and ten feet which would be my second viewing position.

I don't own the Spears and Munsil 4k disc, but I could get it prior to returning, if that's what I decide.


----------



## fredworld

plain fan said:


> Thank you all for the comments on my questions.
> 
> Yes, I was shocked to get two hours. The guy was a designer and kept telling me it wasn't a problem and he's had guys come in multiple times just to AB different projectors. He did say that I obviously had done my research and knew what to look for when evaluating the two projectors.
> 
> I'm not sure if I could get them to tweak the settings. Control for the projectors, receivers, pre/pros, amps, speakers, subs, etc are all running through a single touch screen device, like an iPad. If I got back I'll see if I can check the settings on the epson projector. He did confirm to me that the JVC was running the latest firmware and he knew what it was and what it did.
> 
> The "softness" between the two is probably the difference in 4k versus Eshift as I saw it everything we watched. It was just easier to describe it to the forum members with the "points of light" example because it was there in every similar shot. If I can get access to the controls I'll look to see if the Epson's panels are aligned and what the iris is set to. In the Blu-Ray of Tron Legacy the softness represented itself in the small geometric patterns of their costumes. The light issue was also consistent across the movie. The light cycle battle demonstrated this throughout and these lights weren't "points" as they were more like neon signs. The Epson bloomed more and wasn't as tight as the JVC. *Would this support the idea that the panels weren't aligned?*
> 
> I evaluated the projectors at 7 feet and 10 feet. Seven feet since that's the calculated distance to see the difference in 4k versus 1080p and ten feet which would be my second viewing position.
> 
> I don't own the Spears and Munsil 4k disc, but I could get it prior to returning, if that's what I decide.



I notice "blooming" with my 5050 during indoor scenes that have windows with daylight coming through or in the lamps in the room/scene and my color panel alignment is spot on. My projector is not professionally calibrated. I think you're more likely seeing the real differences between the projectors. But it would be worth confirming that both are set up to perform at their best.


----------



## skylarlove1999

fredworld said:


> I notice "blooming" with my 5050 during indoor scenes that have windows with daylight coming through or in the lamps in the room/scene and my color panel alignment is spot on. My projector is not professionally calibrated. I think you're more likely seeing the real differences between the projectors. But it would be worth confirming that both are set up to perform at their best.


Sounds like the JVC projector had the Dynamic Tone Mapping firmware update. The Epson does tend to bloom/blowout specular highlights the more you increase the brightness using the HDR slider. The JVC DTM firmware update really allows for specular highlights to come through while maintaining the brightness. It is pretty amazing. The JVC really is more of a set and forget for HDR while the Epson I find the need to adjust based upon the content. The Epson still produces some great HDR but requires more fine tuning and still the JVC is better. JVC has better contrast, black levels and sharpness. They are more expensive and the replacement lamps are much more expensive. For the money I love my Epson 6050 but the JVC projectors are clearly better. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## aeneas01

i'm sure the jvc is a wonderful projector but for my particular environment i needed the brightness of the 6050ub, which is considerably brighter than the nx5 iirc... also, aren't the lamps for the nx5 around $900? compared to $140 for the 6050ub? anyhoo, if i ever decide to setup a dedicated bat cave i would certainly look at something like the nx5, but until then i have to lean towards brightness and quality....


----------



## aeneas01

ALRLIFE said:


> JVC replacement lamps are close to $500. I'm not sure where you are getting $900 from.


https://www.purelandsupply.com/jvc-lcd-and-dlp-lamps_dla-nx5.html


but, hey, if they can be had for "only" $500 bucks that's great!


----------



## momofx

pete ramberg said:


> Reference-quality 4K movie question:
> 
> Speaking of 'happy movie watching', I currently use "Passengers" as my 4k reference movie to show off the 5050 to guests (or myself!). It is a 4k-mastered disc shot digitally in 4k. I think it really shows off the projector.
> 
> I am wondering what you folks would use as your reference-quality 4k disc?? It would be important to have a copy from a 4k digital intermediate, IMHO, and shot in 4k.
> 
> What say you guys??



That's funny cos I just ordered that movie in 4K and it's one of my favorites as well. The joys of having to buy the same movies again in 4K  



The one disc I found to really stand out is the Blue Planet II - I never really watch documentaries but I do not mind that one!


----------



## skylarlove1999

momofx said:


> That's funny cos I just ordered that movie in 4K and it's one of my favorites as well. The joys of having to buy the same movies again in 4K
> 
> 
> 
> The one disc I found to really stand out is the Blue Planet II - I never really watch documentaries but I do not mind that one!


I use The Revenant, The Martian, X-Men Apocalypse, Logan and Black Panther, among others.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

pete ramberg said:


> Reference-quality 4K movie question:
> 
> Speaking of 'happy movie watching', I currently use "Passengers" as my 4k reference movie to show off the 5050 to guests (or myself!). It is a 4k-mastered disc shot digitally in 4k. I think it really shows off the projector.
> 
> I am wondering what you folks would use as your reference-quality 4k disc?? It would be important to have a copy from a 4k digital intermediate, IMHO, and shot in 4k.
> 
> What say you guys??


The Pan Am to Space Station to Moon landing in 2001/4K BD; the graphics and music together are spellbinding. This is a 4K transfer from 70mm film and it's fabulous.


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## pete ramberg

DunMunro said:


> The Pan Am to Space Station to Moon landing in 2001/4K BD; the graphics and music together are spellbinding. This is a 4K transfer from 70mm film and it's fabulous.


I had read on Sound&Vision that the 2001 4k disc was excellent. Worth owning?


Any other discs you guys use to show off the projector?


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## Luminated67

BIC2 said:


> I'm having a similar problem. Best I can tell, everything is plumb, square & level. I've adjusted the roll on the Chief mount--not the problem. There is a very slight bulge in the upper right wall where the screen mount hanger is. Had to use 1/16" or 1/8" washer to fix that. Other than that everything is almost perfect. Wall is flat, screen is square. I have to pull the bottom right corner out more than an inch before that makes a very slight difference (not enough for a cure). Nothing can be that far out of whack with the wall or screen. I'm pretty perplexed. Probably need to call Epson.


Looking at this it reminds me of either two things, one is your bottom right corner of the screen isn't plumb..... it might be square with the wall but the wall itself might be out a little, the second is your projector isn't quite square and this is a matter of tweaking till right.

Whatever you do please avoid keystone.


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## dr bill

DunMunro said:


> The Pan Am to Space Station to Moon landing in 2001/4K BD; the graphics and music together are spellbinding. This is a 4K transfer from 70mm film and it's fabulous.


Purchased, arriving tomorrow...


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## Dirk504

pete ramberg said:


> Reference-quality 4K movie question:
> 
> Speaking of 'happy movie watching', I currently use "Passengers" as my 4k reference movie to show off the 5050 to guests (or myself!). It is a 4k-mastered disc shot digitally in 4k. I think it really shows off the projector.
> 
> I am wondering what you folks would use as your reference-quality 4k disc?? It would be important to have a copy from a 4k digital intermediate, IMHO, and shot in 4k.
> 
> What say you guys??


Aquaman, X-Men Apocalypse, and Pacific Rim. Also, I haven't picked them up yet, but I hear The Lion King and Gemini Man are some of the best 4k releases to date.


----------



## Dan Fry

*How Close is too close for the 5050*

Hey Everyone,

I am a current CRT PJ owner and making the switch for the first time to digital. I have stayed with CRT for so long because I can't do DLP and I've been waiting for something that is as good as or better than CRT. I have a Marquee 9500 with 9inch guns. Everything I read has pushed me to your PJ, but I'm concerned about seeing the screen door. My seating is approx 9 feet from a 106 inch screen with a PJ mount distance of 11 ft. Is this too close for this PJ, will I see the grid? Thanks much for your help.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Dan Fry said:


> Hey Everyone,
> 
> 
> 
> I am a current CRT PJ owner and making the switch for the first time to digital. I have stayed with CRT for so long because I can't do DLP and I've been waiting for something that is as good as or better than CRT. I have a Marquee 9500 with 9inch guns. Everything I read has pushed me to your PJ, but I'm concerned about seeing the screen door. My seating is approx 9 feet from a 106 inch screen with a PJ mount distance of 11 ft. Is this too close for this PJ, will I see the grid? Thanks much for your help.


You will not see the grid . Have to get to about 6ft and then only the most acute vision will see it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## aeneas01

i like using the opening scene of the dark knight as an hdr test, as it transitions from a very dark marvel montage intro to the bright rooftop scene, to the bank robbery scene... the opening scene to passengers is also great, the light in the spaceship as it approaches the asteroid, the warning panels, etc... the bedroom scene in jurassic world fallen kingdom, where an elderly benjamin lockwood is napping in his bed with a book on his lap, hdr can really make all of the dark to light rich colors pop in that scene, in fact fallen kingdom has a lot of of great scenes for hdr....


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## skylarlove1999

aeneas01 said:


> i like using the opening scene of the dark knight as an hdr test, as it transitions from a very dark marvel montage intro to the bright rooftop scene, to the bank robbery scene... the opening scene to passengers is also great, the light in the spaceship as it approaches the asteroid, the warning panels, etc... the bedroom scene in jurassic world fallen kingdom, where an elderly benjamin lockwood is napping in his bed with a book on his lap, hdr can really make all of the dark to light rich colors pop in that scene, in fact fallen kingdom has a lot of of great scenes for hdr....


Agreed. The opening scene of Fallen Kindgom is good as well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## gunlife

Finally did it! Upgrading from the Epson 4000 to the 5050! Have to wait till monday!!! Will finish my room off before then. Just have to triple velvet over my front speakers and I am ready for respectable black levels!


----------



## alexcomp99

My new to me 5040UB is installed and working! I guess I got in under the wire as the price has gone up $150 since I ordered mine last week. Oh my God it's huge and I was not aware that there was no way in hell that my old ceiling mount mechanism for my Acer 6510 BD would never function. Just look at my kludgey, temporary installation until I make a decision on best mounting - wife is commencing a countdown. I have questions:

My entertainment room is 20 feet wide and approximately 40 feet long with an 8 foot high suspended ceiling. My ceiling tiles are 2 foot squares. Seems that the path of least resistance would be to drop a 2 x 2 plate, replacing one of my squares in the same way as the Amazon product for $115 and would need extenders as it looks like distance between holes as much as 14". Is there a better alternative? Occurs to me I could cut a 2x2 square of plywood and attach a less expensive mount to it. Anyone done that. Would still need extensions and worry that would weaken the rigidity of the spider legs. 

It seems that the new projector is quite flexible and is doing very nicely at around 15 feet where my old projector was but I could probably mount it back further in the room. Is there a sweet spot where the best quality of projection occurs? Would18 feet be better than 15 feet or 20 feet or doesn't it matter?

I'm very impressed by the additional sophistication of this unit over and above my previous $600 projector but in the light of some of the highly technical points being made in this thread, how do I go through the performance of this refurbished unit to make sure that I don't have a problem? When I stand at one side and look at the lens as it projects, for instance, I think I see speckles on the surface of the lens would this be dust particles and can they be removed or is it something more ominous?

Out of the box the unit looked new but I believe that I may be missing the cover plates for the rear input section and also I think there is a cover over the side control panel. I should have those shouldn't I?

Earlier in the thread someone mentioned a lamp that could be received as a rebate. Is that still a going thing or is it over?


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2671456&thumb=1


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## fredworld

alexcomp99 said:


> My new to me 5040UB is installed and working! I guess I got in under the wire as the price has gone up $150 since I ordered mine last week. Oh my God it's huge and I was not aware that there was no way in hell that my old ceiling mount mechanism for my Acer 6510 BD would never function. Just look at my kludgey, temporary installation until I make a decision on best mounting - wife is commencing a countdown. I have questions:
> 
> My entertainment room is 20 feet wide and approximately 40 feet long with an 8 foot high suspended ceiling. My ceiling tiles are 2 foot squares. Seems that the path of least resistance would be to drop a 2 x 2 plate, replacing one of my squares in the same way as the Amazon product for $115 and would need extenders as it looks like distance between holes as much as 14". Is there a better alternative? Occurs to me I could cut a 2x2 square of plywood and attach a less expensive mount to it. Anyone done that. Would still need extensions and worry that would weaken the rigidity of the spider legs.
> 
> It seems that the new projector is quite flexible and is doing very nicely at around 15 feet where my old projector was but I could probably mount it back further in the room. Is there a sweet spot where the best quality of projection occurs? Would18 feet be better than 15 feet or 20 feet or doesn't it matter?
> 
> I'm very impressed by the additional sophistication of this unit over and above my previous $600 projector but in the light of some of the highly technical points being made in this thread, how do I go through the performance of this refurbished unit to make sure that I don't have a problem? When I stand at one side and look at the lens as it projects, for instance, I think I see speckles on the surface of the lens would this be dust particles and can they be removed or is it something more ominous?
> 
> Out of the box the unit looked new but I believe that I may be missing the cover plates for the rear input section and also I think there is a cover over the side control panel. I should have those shouldn't I?
> 
> Earlier in the thread someone mentioned a lamp that could be received as a rebate. Is that still a going thing or is it over?
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2671456&thumb=1



You're in the _5050_UB thread. If you mean, as you posted, that you're questioning set up of a _5040_UB, then you might have better response with the *Epson 5040/6040 thread*.


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## Luminated67

Dan Fry said:


> Hey Everyone,
> 
> I am a current CRT PJ owner and making the switch for the first time to digital. I have stayed with CRT for so long because I can't do DLP and I've been waiting for something that is as good as or better than CRT. I have a Marquee 9500 with 9inch guns. Everything I read has pushed me to your PJ, but I'm concerned about seeing the screen door. My seating is approx 9 feet from a 106 inch screen with a PJ mount distance of 11 ft. Is this too close for this PJ, will I see the grid? Thanks much for your help.


You are approaching maximum zoom if the projector lens is 11ft from this size of screen and since you have a CRT you are already use to a dimmer image and doubt you’ll ever need to switch from ECO lamp mode so the Epson will be quiet. One area where the Epson won’t match the CRT is contrast but what digital projector will. Have you went to get a demo yet, if not I think you should, screen door is something others have commented on but personally I can’t see it even when I move to less than 5ft from my 100” screen but as you are coming from different tech then you might see things differently so definitely try before you buy.

Here’s a couple of videos I did a while ago that might help.






This video is with e-shift OFF. In both videos I start from roughly 4ft away and finish up about 2-3 inches from the screen. The next video is with e-shift ON and you can see how much closer you get before you start to see the pixels.


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## Luminated67

ALRLIFE said:


> I concur. After comparing the two directly, I had to begrudgingly admit the JVC NX5 and NX7 are much better projectors. Their only weakness is lack of brightness.


Much better but are they worth the asking price difference? Of course this varies from country to country, over here in the UK the best price I have seen an N5 for is still over twice the price of the Epson at RRP, so better yes but not twice as good in my opinion.


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## Dan Fry

thanks guys I appreciate the help.


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## rekbones

Dan Fry said:


> Hey Everyone,
> 
> I am a current CRT PJ owner and making the switch for the first time to digital. I have stayed with CRT for so long because I can't do DLP and I've been waiting for something that is as good as or better than CRT. I have a Marquee 9500 with 9inch guns. Everything I read has pushed me to your PJ, but I'm concerned about seeing the screen door. My seating is approx 9 feet from a 106 inch screen with a PJ mount distance of 11 ft. Is this too close for this PJ, will I see the grid? Thanks much for your help.


The tech that comes the closest to CRT is LCOS. Pixel fill on LCOS is significantly smaller then LCD you may not be able to see the grid but some say it still makes a difference and native contrast is also much closer to CRT. JVC and Sony are the projectors using LCOS panels.


----------



## plain fan

Thank you everyone for the inputs and disc recommendations. It will be a few weeks before I can go back and AB with one of the discs mentioned. I have 2001, Logan, BR2040, etc but will probably grab the Spears and Munsil disc as well.

How often do 5050/6050 owners make adjustments to your HDR using the slider? Is it often? I really like what JVC did with their DTM and the ability to get the projector calibrated and forget it while watching whichever source I desire. I'm also factoring in the cost of one of the Panasonic players that have the brightness settings into the overall cost of the projector.
@Dan Fry, I moved from a Barco 800G to a Sony which uses LCOS panels and didn't feel like I missed a thing. Granted my Barco was nothing compared to your Marquee but I understand the concern in making the move. You didn't post any details about your viewing environment but as was stated either of these projectors will produce significantly more light than your Marquee. And yes, the JVC will probably be closest to the what you're accustomed to seeing but I would strongly encourage you to take your favorite movie to a store and AB them to see which one you prefer.


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## mkiv808

Does anyone know good places to buy refurbished Epsons? Particularly looking for a deal on the 6050UB. Thanks!


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## jaredmwright

mkiv808 said:


> Does anyone know good places to buy refurbished Epsons? Particularly looking for a deal on the 6050UB. Thanks!


Purchased mine on eBay, refurbished and like new, bulb had zero hours. I had to buy the remote separately, it only came with the power cord. I like having the original remote even though I have a Harmony controlling everything. You can find great deals on them. I paid less than $2500 for mine. 
Sold my 5030ub for $600 so pretty cost effective upgrade to get 4K HDR and improved image color and and contrast.



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## noob00224

plain fan said:


> How often do 5050/6050 owners make adjustments to your HDR using the slider? Is it often? I really like what JVC did with their DTM and the ability to get the projector calibrated and forget it while watching whichever source I desire. I'm also factoring in the cost of one of the Panasonic players that have the brightness settings into the overall cost of the projector.


Might want to try madvr's DTM for what is probably the best tone mapping solution out there. Can't be used for streaming services, for that you need an madvr Envy.

Comparison between madvr and JVC's DTM:
http://cine4home.de/dynamisches-hdr-bei-heimkinobeamern-ein-user-event-schafft-endlich-klarheit/


----------



## JewDaddy

Does anyone know if the 49ers and Packers game will be shown or streamed in 4k today?

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## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> Does anyone know if the 49ers and Packers game will be shown or streamed in 4k today?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


As far as I know it will not be shown in 4K. Fubotv, DirecTv and Fox Sports do not have the usual indicators up if it were going to be in 4K. Huge missed opportunity in my opinion. 

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## JewDaddy

skylarlove1999 said:


> As far as I know it will not be shown in 4K. Fubotv, DirecTv and Fox Sports do not have the usual indicators up if it were going to be in 4K. Huge missed opportunity in my opinion.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Ugh! That sucks 

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> Ugh! That sucks
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


To me the Fox Sports App feed on my Roku looks better than the broadcast on cable/satellite. That's just my opinion. 

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## nefrina

can anyone put into terms or quantify how much of an upgrade i'm looking at by upgrading from an epson home cinema 2150 to a 5050ub? i know the 5050 has better contrast, faux-4k and more features, but is it really worth the money? just wondering if anyone has been in a similar boat prior to pulling the trigger and what they think. will be used in a dedicated room with 100% light control & all surfaces are covered in black velvet. the 2150 looks incredible most of the time until the scene is very low light and then it makes me want to upgrade...


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## noob00224

serith said:


> can anyone put into terms or quantify how much of an upgrade i'm looking at by upgrading from an epson home cinema 2150 to a 5050ub? i know the 5050 has better contrast, faux-4k and more features, but is it really worth the money? just wondering if anyone has been in a similar boat prior to pulling the trigger and what they think. will be used in a dedicated room with 100% light control & all surfaces are covered in black velvet. the 2150 looks incredible most of the time until the scene is very low light and then it makes me want to upgrade...


How large is the screen and what fabric?

Seating distance?

Black level from the 2150 to a projector with good black levels can be compared to going from an IPS panel to a VA or OLED (with JVC).

Contrast is one of the most, if not the most important aspect of an image from a PQ perspective. That room is perfect for a projector with good blacks.
The best would be JVC, used to reduce costs:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...pen-box-sony-vs-refurb-benq.html#post59040064
A B Stock JVC NX5 can be had for the cost of a 6050UB or lower.
For a projector with warranty with good black level but not as good as the JVC there is the 5040UB refurbished.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...9050-refurbished-epson-5040ub-1-151-00-a.html

The 5040UB can be improved in two ways:
HDR DTM with a Panasonic UB420/820/900 (the last two have Dolby Vision support).
For gaming and some streaming services/boxes 60Hz is required, so in order to be able to use HDR 60Hz 4K (because the 5040 has a 10GB HDMI chip) an external device has to be used to drop the bit depth from 10 to 8. A PC or an HDFury Linker or another device can be used.

The 5050UB has a 18GB HDMI chip and a nice HDR DTM function, and a general upgrade to the 5040UB.


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## nefrina

noob00224 said:


> How large is the screen and what fabric?
> 
> Seating distance?
> 
> Black level from the 2150 to a projector with good black levels can be compared to going from an IPS panel to a VA or OLED (with JVC).
> 
> Contrast is one of the most, if not the most important aspect of an image from a PQ perspective. That room is perfect for a projector with good blacks.


front row is 12' from 155" 16:9 screen (~147" @ 2.39:1), rear row is ~18'. spandex diy screen with ~0.6 gain (white over black spandex).


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## noob00224

serith said:


> front row is 12' from 155" 16:9 screen (~147" @ 2.39:1), rear row is ~18'. spandex diy screen with ~0.6 gain (white over black spandex).


For a screen that size even the 5xxxUB series might not be bright enough.
However, if the HC2150 is bright enough the 5xxxUB series might be bright enough as well. 
For a projector with a more lumens but with nice blacks you have to look into venue projectors, like the Pro G7500U.

What is the source?
A HTPC with madvr is a great solution for HDR DTM videos.


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## nefrina

noob00224 said:


> For a screen that size even the 5xxxUB series might not be bright enough.
> However, if the HC2150 is bright enough the 5xxxUB series might be bright enough as well.


the 2150 is bright enough but only on dynamic. on the lower brightness settings it's way too dark. i have the projector mounted at the rear of the room shooting about 20' away from the screen.

i wonder if the epson 3800 would be a better bet for me? it's brighter and has more contrast than the 2150?


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## HTX^2steve

Now I have mentioned this before about the lens shift not holding positions and that crap ass work around...A bit annoying when even my presents aren't holding. Epson support is saying it is to be holding...So with ya'll with this projector...Are all of yours holding the lens shift or is this unit going back?


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## noob00224

serith said:


> the 2150 is bright enough but only on dynamic. on the lower brightness settings it's way too dark. i have the projector mounted at the rear of the room shooting about 20' away from the screen.
> 
> i wonder if the epson 3800 would be a better bet for me? it's brighter and has more contrast than the 2150?


Dynamic usually has a green tint.

The HC3800 will provide little contrast compared to the 5050UB, and it's not brighter than the 2150:











There are two options:

1) Get a screen with a higher gain, even a positive gain.

2) Get a venue projector, like the Pro G7500U. 

If the screen can't be changed, create a new thread here, but a projector with those kinds of lumens and good blacks is much more expensive than a positive gains screen:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-digital-hi-end-projectors-3-000-usd-msrp/


----------



## nefrina

noob00224 said:


> Dynamic usually has a green tint.
> 
> The HC3800 will provide little contrast compared to the 5050UB, and it's not brighter than the 2150:


okay more important than anything i've asked so far, how & where are you getting these ansi lumen ratings? i never have luck trying to find this data myself yet you've presented the data for all 3 projectors i've mentioned. i'm impressed!

as much as i would prefer better video quality, i could never give back the size or acoustic transparency my screen gives me right now--both are killer! so i either need to find a different AT material with higher gain, or look elsewhere for projector upgrades it sounds like.


----------



## noob00224

serith said:


> okay more important than anything i've asked so far, how & where are you getting these ansi lumen ratings? i never have luck trying to find this data myself yet you've presented the data for all 3 projectors i've mentioned. i'm impressed!
> 
> as much as i would prefer better video quality, i could never give back the size or acoustic transparency my screen gives me right now--both are killer! so i either need to find a different AT material with higher gain, or look elsewhere for projector upgrades it sounds like.


Reviews by Projector Central and others have some measurements taken:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-3800-Projector-Review.htm

There are positive gain acoustic transparent screens, but just make a thread here:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/


----------



## bitmap42

serith said:


> front row is 12' from 155" 16:9 screen (~147" @ 2.39:1), rear row is ~18'. spandex diy screen with ~0.6 gain (white over black spandex).


I have a 140” 2.39:1 white over black Spandex screen with a 2150 that is mounted 16 feet from the screen. My room is painted a matte dark color, ceiling is white, floor is a grey carpet. I have black velvet around the screen. I have mine on ECO mode. I put it on dynamic for watching sport but the room lights have to be on, otherwise it is blinding. Is your room light controlled? Are your walls super reflective? And do you have black masking on the front wall around the screen?
.


----------



## nefrina

bitmap42 said:


> I have a 140” 2.39:1 white over black Spandex screen with a 2150 that is mounted 16 feet from the screen. My room is painted a matte dark color, ceiling is white, floor is a grey carpet. I have black velvet around the screen. I have mine on ECO mode. I put it on dynamic for watching sport but the room lights have to be on, otherwise it is blinding. Is your room light controlled? Are your walls super reflective? And do you have black masking on the front wall around the screen?
> .


i have black velvet covering all of the walls, ceiling, and 8' out from the screen on the floor. i think i just like a "punchier" picture? if you look at even the thumbnails of the most recent videos on my channel you can get an idea of what that looks like (and if you look back further you can see where the room was previously painted dark grey).

https://www.youtube.com/user/aaromon43/videos

i originally had the projector mounted ~12' away from the screen in the middle of the room and that worked at the time with a much smaller screen. it was quite the hassle moving the wiring for the projector to the rear of the room but it was worth it for the increased screen size, less fan noise being further away from the front row of seating, and now that it's anchored into concrete bass no longer shakes the image.

when i had the projector nearly 2x closer to the screen i always ran it in eco mode, well until the bulb started flickering which seems to be a prominent issue with uhp lamps (does not happen when using the lamp at full brightness). however now that it's mounted 20' away from a (much larger) screen and has a lower gain i need all of the horsepower it has to give me an image as bright as i prefer.


----------



## noob00224

serith said:


> i have black velvet covering all of the walls, ceiling, and 8' out from the screen on the floor. i think i just like a "punchier" picture? if you look at even the thumbnails of the most recent videos on my channel you can get an idea of what that looks like (and if you look back further you can see where the room was previously painted dark grey).
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/user/aaromon43/videos
> 
> i originally had the projector mounted ~12' away from the screen in the middle of the room and that worked at the time with a much smaller screen. it was quite the hassle moving the wiring for the projector to the rear of the room but it was worth it for the increased screen size, less fan noise being further away from the front row of seating, and now that it's anchored into concrete bass no longer shakes the image.
> 
> when i had the projector nearly 2x closer to the screen i always ran it in eco mode, well until the bulb started flickering which seems to be a prominent issue with uhp lamps (does not happen when using the lamp at full brightness). however now that it's mounted 20' away from a (much larger) screen and has a lower gain i need all of the horsepower it has to give me an image as bright as i prefer.


Those measurements are taken at 100% zoom. Using less zoom, on any projector will decrease the brightness. On the HC2150:
_*Zoom lens light loss. * The HC 2150's lens curtails hardly any light at the telephoto end of the range compared with the wide angle position. The 8% loss of brightness is far less than with most 1.6x zoom lenses and little enough that you don't have to consider it when choosing how far to position the projector from the screen. _

How many hours does the lamp have?

Could it be used with a lower preset than Dynamic when the lamp was new?

What preset is used here?


----------



## nefrina

noob00224 said:


> Those measurements are taken at 100% zoom. Using less zoom, on any projector will decrease the brightness. On the HC2150:
> _*Zoom lens light loss. * The HC 2150's lens curtails hardly any light at the telephoto end of the range compared with the wide angle position. The 8% loss of brightness is far less than with most 1.6x zoom lenses and little enough that you don't have to consider it when choosing how far to position the projector from the screen. _
> 
> How many hours does the lamp have?
> 
> Could it be used with a lower preset than Dynamic when the lamp was new?
> 
> What preset is used here?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCBrqCeJ_CQ


when i completed that 140" screen is when i started using the projector on dynamic high lamp mode because the spandex is such low gain (probably had a couple hundred hours on the lamp with the smaller screens using eco). lamp currently has ~700 hours.


----------



## eastbaygreen

alright folks...long time lurker of this thread. I have a 5020ub and have been seriously thinking about the 5050ub for the last 6 months as I had wanted to wait until our kitchen remodel was done. But now my buddy just upgraded and is giving me the "friends and family" discount for his old JVC DLA-X750R with a new bulb for $1800. 

I'm assuming I should jump on that offer...but wanted to get folks take on it here. Basically, it's the 5050ub or this JVC for 1k less. 

I think the JVC beats the Epson in every way except for lumens and maybe some HDR formats? I'm not familar enough with that yet, but the JVC is a 2016 model, so 3 years older.

Thoughts?

edit for more context: I don't have a dedicated room, so ambient light is present during the day. I typically only watch sports during those times though, so picture quality isn't a huge factor. The JVC is rated at 1800 lumens, so I'm thinking that is bright enough to make me happy. And the night-time viewing will be amazing, as I've witnessed this projector many times at my buddies place...and it is a few steps above my 5020, for sure.


----------



## Danonano

eastbaygreen said:


> alright folks...long time lurker of this thread. I have a 5020ub and have been seriously thinking about the 5050ub for the last 6 months as I had wanted to wait until our kitchen remodel was done. But now my buddy just upgraded and is giving me the "friends and family" discount for his old JVC DLA-X750R with a new bulb for $1800.


I have an 5050 in a living room setup and a JVC in a dedicated room. For a living room the extra brightness of the Epson is nice especially if you plan to watch HDR content. What screen are you using? Feel free to PM me with any questions.

Also there is a lively discussion in the $3k projector forum comparing the current gen JVC and the Epson that might have ideas.




Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk


----------



## eastbaygreen

Danonano said:


> I have an 5050 in a living room setup and a JVC in a dedicated room. For a living room the extra brightness of the Epson is nice especially if you plan to watch HDR content. What screen are you using? Feel free to PM me with any questions.
> 
> Also there is a lively discussion in the $3k projector forum comparing the current gen JVC and the Epson that might have ideas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk


I've got the Elite Starling Spectra White FG, 100". Viewing distance is about 11'.

Most of the HDR content would be watched at night, so the brightness wouldn't be a huge factor (except those mid-summer nights when the sun doesn't set until around 9, lol). Though, I do think I've read that extra brightness helps HDR regardless...

1800 seems a great deal on this thing....

thanks for the tip on the $3k thread...


----------



## skylarlove1999

eastbaygreen said:


> I've got the Elite Starling Spectra White FG, 100". Viewing distance is about 11'.
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the HDR content would be watched at night, so the brightness wouldn't be a huge factor (except those mid-summer nights when the sun doesn't set until around 9, lol). Though, I do think I've read that extra brightness helps HDR regardless...
> 
> 
> 
> 1800 seems a great deal on this thing....
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for the tip on the $3k thread...


The 750R was just one step down from the JVC Flagship projector for that model year. MSRP of $7K. That is a great deal on a fantastic projector. Some things to consider. No warranty. Higher lamp replacement cost. Lower lumens. More tinkering for great HDR. Better blacks, better contrast, better lens and sharper. For a room where there will be ambient light I always consider how much sports viewing will take place during daylight hours. Sports are generally less affected by ambient light but it all depends on whether direct light is hitting the screen. I might look into a higher gain ALR screen like Screen Innovations Black Diamond 1.4 gain or their Slate Gray 1.4. You date the projector and marry the screen. That may not be in your plans. Personally I would only take the 750r under your room conditions if I also changed my screen. But that is just me. I feel it is the better projector overall but would be concerned about being able to see the benefits under your room conditions.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## carmona

I have the epson 6050 projector.

Would like to ceiling mount in a non-inverted position.

Thinking of using the Chief LCDA Series Non-Inverted Universal Projector Ceiling Mounts LCDA

However, based on the specs below, what would be the best mode number to employ for this projector? 

Thanks in advance for any help. 


Model Details:
LCDA215C

Max Height: 3.33 - 4.25
Max Width: 7.63 - 12.6
Tray Depth: 8
LCDA220C

Max Height: 7.69 - 13.4
Max Width: 8.63 - 11.5
Tray Depth: 17.75
LCDA225C

Max Height: 10.8 - 16
Max Width: 8.63 - 11.5
Tray Depth: 17.75
LCDA230C

Max Height: 7.69 - 13.4
Max Width: 12.69 - 23.25
Tray Depth: 17.75
LCDA240C

Max Height: 10.8 - 16
Max Width: 14.13 - 19.6
Tray Depth: 22.25


----------



## DaGamePimp

serith said:


> can anyone put into terms or quantify how much of an upgrade i'm looking at by upgrading from an epson home cinema 2150 to a 5050ub? i know the 5050 has better contrast, faux-4k and more features, but is it really worth the money? just wondering if anyone has been in a similar boat prior to pulling the trigger and what they think. will be used in a dedicated room with 100% light control & all surfaces are covered in black velvet. the 2150 looks incredible most of the time until the scene is very low light and then it makes me want to upgrade...


The 5050 is a significant jump over the 2150 but being worth the additional cost is a question that only the end-user can answer.




HTX^2steve said:


> Now I have mentioned this before about the lens shift not holding positions and that crap ass work around...A bit annoying when even my presents aren't holding. Epson support is saying it is to be holding...So with ya'll with this projector...Are all of yours holding the lens shift or is this unit going back?


Mine has not moved a bit since setting it up about 6 weeks ago (although I have not really pushed the bass yet). 

- Jason


----------



## Pretorian

HTX^2steve said:


> Now I have mentioned this before about the lens shift not holding positions and that crap ass work around...A bit annoying when even my presents aren't holding. Epson support is saying it is to be holding...So with ya'll with this projector...Are all of yours holding the lens shift or is this unit going back?


Do you have mounted in the ceiling? I have a little to fragile mount for my Epson 6050 so it moves a tidy bit during time. For me it is not the lens shift but the mount that can´t handle the weight I guess.


----------



## Pretorian

Here I am demonstrating the John Wick 3 intro with the lights out in my cinema:


----------



## HTX^2steve

Pretorian said:


> Do you have mounted in the ceiling? I have a little to fragile mount for my Epson 6050 so it moves a tidy bit during time. For me it is not the lens shift but the mount that can´t handle the weight I guess.


Well the crazy bass that I enjoy for the movies probably doesn't help... ;-) If you take a look at my avatar pic you see how I mounted my projector to my ceiling. I used a articulating tv mount and what that allows is to have the mount drill two 1/4 screws into one horizontal stud in the ceiling. I also used SORBOGEL as a buffer as to have the projector hang from these vibration gel thingys and it has been the best that I have done thus far to minimize vibration artifacts on the screen.

No this has to do with the crappy bug that has plagued these projectors from Epson which they never fixed. I tried to follow these instructions but I think they are still vague on how to get this right. Epson support is saying it should hold once you get these steps correct. I'm like why don't you fix it...no answer. If you are like myself that sets up at least three lens settings: 16:9, 2:35 and 2:35 with blanking then you can spend lots of time to get it right. Then if you make any changes to your projector and/or screen you have to do that process alllllll over again. 

Other than that the PJ rocks and I sooooo love this thing!


----------



## pete ramberg

*My personal Epson 6050 versus Sony 295ES comparison*

I was able to spend about an hour at a Best Buy Design Center with both projectors last weekend.

The manager knows me, and let me have the room to myself while he worked with other customers. It was pretty cool of him!

Panasonic UB820 was used, with my own "A Beautiful Planet" 4k disc. One thing I think is important when doing a 4k comparison, is to make sure the source is TRUE 4k (shot and mastered in 4k, not upscaled from 2k). "A Beautiful Planet" is shot by the NASA astronauts with a 4k camera. Any way, I think it is important to compare 4k (or 4k pixel-shifters) with a true 4k source.

I used a piece of cardboard to cover up each projector output separately, then moved the cardboard back-and-forth between them. A piece of tape held the cardboard in place while I went up to the screen to compare.

I ran the 6050 in Digital Cinema mode, for P3 color and matching brightness with the 295ES. In Bright Cinema or Natural mode, the 6050 is simply brighter than the Sony and it can bias an opinion. So, using Digital Cinema was the way to go for the comparison.

Image preset of 2 was used for sharpening on the 6050.

I used 4 different freeze-frame comparisons, trying to find images that contained a lot of small detail. There is an image of the ISS with the Earth as a backdrop early in the movie, which proved to be a great image for comparison of detail.

My goal was to find a difference in RESOLUTION, mostly - although I did compare black levels, color saturation and color fidelity too.

Results? For overall color reproduction, the Epson with P3 color mode was awesome. I thought the colors were more saturated and vivid on the 6050.

Black levels were identical - unless the auto iris is activated on a completely black screen. Then, of course, the Epson wins.

The biggie for me was resolution. I spent almost the entire time about 3 feet from the screen (a 100" diagonal). No pixels or screen door is seen with the 6050. If a gun was put to my head, I might see an almost imperceptible difference in resolution and detail, but I could be fooled if someone else was running the A/B comparison other than me. Obviously, I knew ahead of time which projector I was looking at.

The resolution is what I wanted to compare mostly - and it was a nice surprise. Really nice. I have a 5050 at home, so I looked at the still images on it and from my recollection of the 6050, they were identical in resolution.

Finally, I photographed the same freeze-frame of the ISS with the 1080p disc (upscaled with 4k enhancement) and then with the true 4k disc. The true 4k image was noticeable sharper, with a higher resolution. This was done on my 5050 at home.


In review, I found no discernible difference between the resolution of the Sony 295ES and Epson 6050/5050UB. Color, black levels and overall picture quality were comparable.

The 295ES is current 2X the price of the 5050UB. To me, it is a no-brainer.

IMHO.... 


P.S. from 10 feet from the screen, it would be impossible to see any resolution difference - even if it exists. 





plain fan said:


> Questions for the owners of the Epson 5050/6050. I finally had the opportunity to AB the Epson 6050 and the JVC NX5 this weekend at a Magnolia Design Center with a very knowledgeable employee. I spent two hours with him going back and forth between the two projectors watching Planet Earth 2 on UHD and Oblivion on UHD. We also watched a little bit of Tron Legacy on blu-ray. He turned off all the lights and was projecting to a 100" screen. The disc source was the Panasonic UB820.
> 
> My impressions were the the color looked "right" on the JVC versus the Epson but if I wasn't going back and forth I would probably not have noticed. The reds and greens appeared a bit over saturated on the Epson. We watched the "Cities" portion of the Planet Earth 2 disc where they are filming with night vision to show the jaguars hunting and taking piglets from a pack of wild pigs. My question is this, do any owners of the 5050/6050 have this disc? Were the night vision scenes red? I ask because when we switched to the JVC the same scenes were noticeably gray and not red. Is this just a poorly adjusted projector? The guy admitted that neither projector had been calibrated beyond the basics of using a setup disc.
> 
> We also went back and forth on detailed scenes and the Epson did look softer compared to JVC at 7' from the screen. Both on 4k discs and Tron Legacy in 1080p. Tron was upscaled by the Panasonic to 4k to both projectors and the Epson was not as sharp. This would be due to the difference in the native 4k of the JVC versus the E-shift of the Epson, correct?
> 
> When switching from Planet Earth 2 to Oblivion the differences between the two were very subtle. However, with both discs, points of light in the image (windows at night, fires, etc) were different. On the Epson the lights weren't really "points" more like blobs of light compared to the JVC which were more "points." Could this have been how the two projectors handle HDR highlights or is it back to the difference in E-shift versus native 4k?
> 
> When it came to contrast both were very close. Yes, the JVC handled dark scenes very well, while the Epson was a little bit brighter in the same scenes. But I'm not sure if calibrating the two would have produced closer results. Again, if I wasn't viewing them back to back, I'm not sure that I would remember the differences between the two.
> 
> I wasn't able to play with the HDR slider on the Epson and the JVC was running the latest firmware with DTM enabled. The two projectors were very close and if I wasn't switching back and forth, I'm not sure that I would have easily remembered the differences.
> 
> And a final question, if I were to go back with demo discs of my own. What would be recommended to help evaluate the differences? I'm looking for 4k disc recommendations.
> 
> Many thanks in advance


----------



## WestCDA

Regarding Fan Noise ...

I've got a 5050UB arriving on Monday, to replace the 5030UB I have installed now in the inverted ceiling position. From previous posts on AVSForum and testing with my own projector, I know the fan noise on the 5030UB is LESS when the projector is mounted upright (non-inverted). That can easily be tested by simply changing the orientation in the projector menu while in high fan.

Does anyone know if the 5050UB is the same with the reduction in fan noise? 

If so, I will likely build a ceiling box for the projector and do away with the mount - a side benefit is the increased stability of the platform. I never did the same with the 5030UB as I needed easy access to the shift, zoom and focus dials from underneath, but with the motorized lens system in the 5050UB that is no longer a concern.


----------



## rossandwendy

serith said:


> as much as i would prefer better video quality, i could never give back the size or acoustic transparency my screen gives me right now--both are killer! so i either need to find a different AT material with higher gain, or look elsewhere for projector upgrades it sounds like.


Have you considered Seymour XD screen material? AT with a .95 gain and would work well from your 12' viewing distance (some can see the weave if they get 10' or so, I can't see the weave on my sample until about 6').

Ross


----------



## Luminated67

pete ramberg said:


> I was able to spend about an hour at a Best Buy Design Center with both projectors last weekend.
> 
> The manager knows me, and let me have the room to myself while he worked with other customers. It was pretty cool of him!
> 
> Panasonic UB820 was used, with my own "A Beautiful Planet" 4k disc. One thing I think is important when doing a 4k comparison, is to make sure the source is TRUE 4k (shot and mastered in 4k, not upscaled from 2k). "A Beautiful Planet" is shot by the NASA astronauts with a 4k camera. Any way, I think it is important to compare 4k (or 4k pixel-shifters) with a true 4k source.
> 
> I used a piece of cardboard to cover up each projector output separately, then moved the cardboard back-and-forth between them. A piece of tape held the cardboard in place while I went up to the screen to compare.
> 
> I ran the 6050 in Digital Cinema mode, for P3 color and matching brightness with the 295ES. In Bright Cinema or Natural mode, the 6050 is simply brighter than the Sony and it can bias an opinion. So, using Digital Cinema was the way to go for the comparison.
> 
> Image preset of 2 was used for sharpening on the 6050.
> 
> I used 4 different freeze-frame comparisons, trying to find images that contained a lot of small detail. There is an image of the ISS with the Earth as a backdrop early in the movie, which proved to be a great image for comparison of detail.
> 
> My goal was to find a difference in RESOLUTION, mostly - although I did compare black levels, color saturation and color fidelity too.
> 
> Results? For overall color reproduction, the Epson with P3 color mode was awesome. I thought the colors were more saturated and vivid on the 6050.
> 
> Black levels were identical - unless the auto iris is activated on a completely black screen. Then, of course, the Epson wins.
> 
> The biggie for me was resolution. I spent almost the entire time about 3 feet from the screen (a 100" diagonal). No pixels or screen door is seen with the 6050. If a gun was put to my head, I might see an almost imperceptible difference in resolution and detail, but I could be fooled if someone else was running the A/B comparison other than me. Obviously, I knew ahead of time which projector I was looking at.
> 
> The resolution is what I wanted to compare mostly - and it was a nice surprise. Really nice. I have a 5050 at home, so I looked at the still images on it and from my recollection of the 6050, they were identical in resolution.
> 
> Finally, I photographed the same freeze-frame of the ISS with the 1080p disc (upscaled with 4k enhancement) and then with the true 4k disc. The true 4k image was noticeable sharper, with a higher resolution. This was done on my 5050 at home.
> 
> 
> In review, I found no discernible difference between the resolution of the Sony 295ES and Epson 6050/5050UB. Color, black levels and overall picture quality were comparable.
> 
> The 295ES is current 2X the price of the 5050UB. To me, it is a no-brainer.
> 
> IMHO....
> 
> 
> P.S. from 10 feet from the screen, it would be impossible to see any resolution difference - even if it exists.


It’s nice to see someone else do the exact same test of comparing a Sony 4K to the Epson and come to the exact same conclusion. When I posted this on AVForums I was told it was impossible due to the Sony having twice the native contrast and superior resolution count, well lightening does strike twice in the same place it appears.


----------



## gunlife

Luminated67 said:


> pete ramberg said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to spend about an hour at a Best Buy Design Center with both projectors last weekend.
> 
> The manager knows me, and let me have the room to myself while he worked with other customers. It was pretty cool of him!
> 
> Panasonic UB820 was used, with my own "A Beautiful Planet" 4k disc. One thing I think is important when doing a 4k comparison, is to make sure the source is TRUE 4k (shot and mastered in 4k, not upscaled from 2k). "A Beautiful Planet" is shot by the NASA astronauts with a 4k camera. Any way, I think it is important to compare 4k (or 4k pixel-shifters) with a true 4k source.
> 
> I used a piece of cardboard to cover up each projector output separately, then moved the cardboard back-and-forth between them. A piece of tape held the cardboard in place while I went up to the screen to compare.
> 
> I ran the 6050 in Digital Cinema mode, for P3 color and matching brightness with the 295ES. In Bright Cinema or Natural mode, the 6050 is simply brighter than the Sony and it can bias an opinion. So, using Digital Cinema was the way to go for the comparison.
> 
> Image preset of 2 was used for sharpening on the 6050.
> 
> I used 4 different freeze-frame comparisons, trying to find images that contained a lot of small detail. There is an image of the ISS with the Earth as a backdrop early in the movie, which proved to be a great image for comparison of detail.
> 
> My goal was to find a difference in RESOLUTION, mostly - although I did compare black levels, color saturation and color fidelity too.
> 
> Results? For overall color reproduction, the Epson with P3 color mode was awesome. I thought the colors were more saturated and vivid on the 6050.
> 
> Black levels were identical - unless the auto iris is activated on a completely black screen. Then, of course, the Epson wins.
> 
> The biggie for me was resolution. I spent almost the entire time about 3 feet from the screen (a 100" diagonal). No pixels or screen door is seen with the 6050. If a gun was put to my head, I might see an almost imperceptible difference in resolution and detail, but I could be fooled if someone else was running the A/B comparison other than me. Obviously, I knew ahead of time which projector I was looking at.
> 
> The resolution is what I wanted to compare mostly - and it was a nice surprise. Really nice. I have a 5050 at home, so I looked at the still images on it and from my recollection of the 6050, they were identical in resolution.
> 
> Finally, I photographed the same freeze-frame of the ISS with the 1080p disc (upscaled with 4k enhancement) and then with the true 4k disc. The true 4k image was noticeable sharper, with a higher resolution. This was done on my 5050 at home.
> 
> 
> In review, I found no discernible difference between the resolution of the Sony 295ES and Epson 6050/5050UB. Color, black levels and overall picture quality were comparable.
> 
> The 295ES is current 2X the price of the 5050UB. To me, it is a no-brainer.
> 
> IMHO.... /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> 
> P.S. from 10 feet from the screen, it would be impossible to see any resolution difference - even if it exists.
> 
> 
> 
> Itâ€™️s nice to see someone else do the exact same test of comparing a Sony 4K to the Epson and come to the exact same conclusion. When I posted this on AVForums I was told it was impossible due to the Sony having twice the native contrast and superior resolution count, well lightening does strike twice in the same place it appears.
Click to expand...

Lightning can strike 3 times! 

But the Sony did have much better motion IMO. Other than that its about exactly my thoughts.


----------



## Luminated67

gunlife said:


> Lightning can strike 3 times!
> 
> But the Sony did have much better motion IMO. Other than that its about exactly my thoughts.


Having had a Sony PJ it's my opinion nothing bets it's motion handling but as I've not sensitive to this my Epson is perfectly fine when watching sports that involve balls.


----------



## pete ramberg

Luminated67 said:


> Having had a Sony PJ it's my opinion nothing bets it's motion handling but as I've not sensitive to this my Epson is perfectly fine when watching sports that involve balls.


The Design Center manager mentioned motion handling of the Sony to me. Before I started my comparison, I asked him to tell me what I am missing with the Sony. He said motion handling.

Luminated, I recall your post over in AVForums. I believed you, but needed to see it for myself. What was your source for the comparison???


The Design Center did not have a true 4k source to do the comparison (which I thought was pretty weird), so I brought my own with me.


Gang, I am a landscape photographer and pride myself in noticing razor-sharp images. I can't tolerate out-of-focus photographs ("Sheesh!! Focus your camera!!"). I simply cannot see a resolution difference between a 4k projector (at twice the price) and the Epson. At least, not the Sony 295ES...


----------



## gunlife

Luminated67 said:


> Having had a Sony PJ it's my opinion nothing bets it's motion handling but as I've not sensitive to this my Epson is perfectly fine when watching sports that involve balls.


I agree... I ended up with at 5050. Was just pointing out that the Sony does have some things that are a touch better. People seem to really be hard on the Sony 295 and I am not sure why. Its routinely on sale for 500 less than MSRP. It has as you said top notch motion and decent tone mapping. No its not the brightest projector out there so if you run a screen over 130' it might not be the best but it is better than it gets credit for on this forum. IMO! If I didn't use my projector for some sporting events and have the lights on I would have payed up for the 295. 

That said I love my Epson! It just really is the jack of all trades projector. Bright if you need it, but can Iris down if you don't.


----------



## DavidinGA

gunlife said:


> I agree... I ended up with at 5050. Was just pointing out that the Sony does have some things that are a touch better. People seem to really be hard on the Sony 295 and I am not sure why. Its routinely on sale for 500 less than MSRP. It has as you said top notch motion and decent tone mapping. No its not the brightest projector out there so if you run a screen over 130' it might not be the best but it is better than it gets credit for on this forum. IMO! If I didn't use my projector for some sporting events and have the lights on I would have payed up for the 295.
> 
> That said I love my Epson! It just really is the jack of all trades projector. Bright if you need it, but can Iris down if you don't.



To me, the biggest failure with the 295 for the money is its lack of an iris. This a huge win for the Epson at this price point and makes it an easy decision (aside from the "I want REAL 4k, not that fake crap" group lol).


----------



## gunlife

DavidinGA said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> To me, the biggest failure with the 295 for the money is its lack of an iris. This a huge win for the Epson at this price point and makes it an easy decision (aside from the "I want REAL 4k, not that fake crap" group lol).
> 
> 
> 
> Can't disagree with this either. Other than wanting the torch mode the epsons give, I love being able to put the manual iris down for sdr as I only have a 100'' screen.
> 
> If you have a larger screen and you don't need the manual iris the sonys native contrast is good enough to make the projectors a wash in black levels. Except in a full fade to black of course.
Click to expand...


----------



## pete ramberg

gunlife said:


> DavidinGA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can't disagree with this either. Other than wanting the torch mode the epsons give, I love being able to put the manual iris down for sdr as I only have a 100'' screen.
> 
> If you have a larger screen and you don't need the manual iris the sonys native contrast is good enough to make the projectors a wash in black levels. Except in a full fade to black of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add that the Sony 295ES is about $1800 more - current pricing. I was not trying to bash the 295ES in my comparison post. Not at all. It looked awesome - just as good as the Epson...
> 
> I just don't see the extra $1800.
> 
> 
> 
> The human eye's resolution is about 1 arc minute (1/60th of a degree). At 10 feet distance, 1 arc minute equates to 0.035" or 0.09 cm. With a 100" diagonal screen (about 90" or 228cm screen width), that equates to about 2500 pixels across the screen that your eye can see. And, about 1400 pixels vertically. Beyond that, your eye cannot see any more - it is simple trigonometry and vision.
> 
> True 4k has about 3800 pixels across your screen. And, about 2160 pixels vertically. You can only see 2500 of them across at 10 feet and 1400 of them vertically at 10 feet. The rest are thrown away by your eye. That's only 3.5 million actually seen of the 8 million generated by true 4k.
> 
> Pixel-shifting 2k puts about 3800 pixels across your screen (diagonally). And, about 1080 pixels vertically. That's about 4.2 million pixels generated by a 2k pixel-shift image. This is still more than what a human eye can resolve at 10 feet.
> 
> 
> Luminated67, gunlife and my visual comparisons between a true 4k and pixel-shifted 2k image simply confirms what mathematics proves.
Click to expand...


----------



## Hawkmarket

pete ramberg said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would add that the Sony 295ES is about $1800 more - current pricing. I was not trying to bash the 295ES in my comparison post. Not at all. It looked awesome - just as good as the Epson...
> 
> I just don't see the extra $1800.
> 
> 
> 
> The human eye's resolution is about 1 arc minute (1/60th of a degree). At 10 feet distance, 1 arc minute equates to 0.035" or 0.09 cm. With a 100" diagonal screen (about 90" or 228cm screen width), that equates to about 2500 pixels across the screen that your eye can see. And, about 1400 pixels vertically. Beyond that, your eye cannot see any more - it is simple trigonometry and vision.
> 
> True 4k has about 3800 pixels across your screen. And, about 2160 pixels vertically. You can only see 2500 of them across at 10 feet and 1400 of them vertically at 10 feet. The rest are thrown away by your eye. That's only 3.5 million actually seen of the 8 million generated by true 4k.
> 
> Pixel-shifting 2k puts about 3800 pixels across your screen (diagonally). And, about 1080 pixels vertically. That's about 4.2 million pixels generated by a 2k pixel-shift image. This is still more than what a human eye can resolve at 10 feet.
> 
> 
> Luminated67, gunlife and my visual comparisons between a true 4k and pixel-shifted 2k image simply confirms what mathematics proves.
> 
> 
> 
> Well duh.
Click to expand...


----------



## spiroh

I just purchased a 5050ub and my initial impressions are it's a pretty good jump up from the Sony 45es but I need to tune and test a little more. Eco mode has significant lumens output which I am loving right now. The bad news is there is a purple dot almost to the middle of the screen. Is that fixable or am I looking at exchanging? Are these purple blobs/dots common with these models? I've read that several people purchasing the 5040 refurbs had that come up a lot.


----------



## jaredmwright

Can you provide a picture?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## spiroh

jaredmwright said:


> Can you provide a picture?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Here is a pic of it. It is static and has not moved at all.


----------



## misterg51

spiroh said:


> Here is a pic of it. It is static and has not moved at all.



My first 5040 had that. Bought from Amazon. I ordered a new one and sent the old back. Epson said it was a defect (bad or stuck pixel). Epson wanted me to send mine in and get a refurbished. Nope. New 5040 was fine. New 5050 upgrade has been great and no issues to report.


----------



## WestCDA

spiroh said:


> Here is a pic of it. It is static and has not moved at all.


Looks like a replacement candidate for sure - Epson won't have any problem with sending you another projector for that kind of image defect. 

Their policy of projector replacement is one of the reasons I'm staying within the Epson family, even though to this point I've never had to make use of it. My new 5050 is on the road, should be here Monday - really looking forward to this upgrade from a 5030.


----------



## dkcinema

I'm a new member on here since I recently had the 5040ub that I bought and ended up returning it and getting the 6050ub!

I'm trying to catch up on this huge thread and it has been very helpful.

For those who have tried the settings from Alaric I hope I can get some help. In the HDR Bright settings he didn't fill out what he used for HDR Slider. Any reason for this?

I also want to keep the lamp power at medium, mostly because of the noise. Did anyone have to change any of the settings because of the lower lamp power mode?

And the last question is regarding the EDID settings. So I have a Nvidia Shield (hopefully someone with the same device can chime in). He put EDID as normal for all 3 settings. But when I do this, the color space stays at BT709 while I'm navigating the menu and also when playing back 4k HDR content. If I switch this to extended then it will show BT2020 but it's showing BT2020 while navigating menus, etc. So I'm not sure if this is the right behavior or not.

Well I hope someone with more experience can answer my questions.

I also hope to give back some of my opinions after I get more seat time with the 6050ub. Unfortunately I didn't get to see the 5040ub and the 6050ub side by side but I did test the 5040ub for a month before I returned it.


----------



## pdoherty972

astrobrooks76 said:


> I recently purchased my first projector, the Epson 5050. It is incredible for the money. My only complaint is that when frame interpolation is set to "off", I still notice some slight motion smoothing. All I watch is movies so I am extrememly sensitive to it.
> 
> I love this projector but not sure I can keep it if I can't get the motion smoothing to be completely gone. It bothers me to death. I want films to look like films.
> 
> Anyone have a suggestion for me? For reference I am using a standard Sony blu ray player I bought a couple years ago.
> 
> I am new here, but have been reading the site for years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


Funny how opinions differ. I just swapped my Sony 50ES for a 6050UB and one of the things I’m disliking about the Epson is that I can’t use frame interpolation on 4K signals. My Sony had its own implementation of motion-handling and I vastly prefer smooth/clean panning over the jittery mess I’m seeing.

Does anyone know if FI for all screen formats is coming for Epson 5050/6050 models? Or does the firmware upgrade resolve this?

Here is my projector info - can’t tell if I need the 1.01 applied or not (is the top 101 it, or the bottom 100?)


----------



## pdoherty972

drober30 said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by astrobrooks76 View Post
> I recently purchased my first projector, the Epson 5050. It is incredible for the money. My only complaint is that when frame interpolation is set to "off", I still notice some slight motion smoothing. All I watch is movies so I am extrememly sensitive to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be watching for any comments on this, this too would be a deal breaker for me!
> 
> I can't believe manufactures still do this "soap opera" thing, are there people who actually like it? Anytime I've been at someones house and I see it on, I ask and the response is they don't see it or understand what I'm talking about.
> 
> I have to believe this will not be an issue, I can't imaging Epson not giving an option to totally disable it.


I find it equally baffling how people can prefer jutter/stutter from low frame rate film on their expensive home theater screens. Just because old school film was 24 frames a second doesn’t mean that’s good. Nothing about that jumpy image screams quality to me. It’s also ironic that the same people who decry this smoothing of film want the fastest 4K/60 FPS so gaming is smoother.

After swapping my Sony for the Epson 6050UB yesterday I went to the opening scene with the police car crossing the bridge in the remake (Bruce Willis) 4K HDR of Death Wish. Colors didn’t pop in the police lights like they do on my 75” Sony 900F TV, and the initial pan when approaching the bridge was terrible as the buildings basically “hopped” as the pan flew across them.

There’s a reason why the more-expensive Sony and JVCs have this motion smoothing and it isn’t because it sucks or no one wants it. If you don’t like it you can always just turn it off (notwithstanding the current discussion on whether it’s actually still in effect when off on these Epsons- my opinion it’s off, hence my complaint).

How can people prefer that to a smooth image? Does the world look like that with your eyes? No, so why would you prefer it on screen?


----------



## gunlife

pdoherty972 said:


> astrobrooks76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I recently purchased my first projector, the Epson 5050. It is incredible for the money. My only complaint is that when frame interpolation is set to "off", I still notice some slight motion smoothing. All I watch is movies so I am extrememly sensitive to it.
> 
> I love this projector but not sure I can keep it if I can't get the motion smoothing to be completely gone. It bothers me to death. I want films to look like films.
> 
> Anyone have a suggestion for me? For reference I am using a standard Sony blu ray player I bought a couple years ago.
> 
> I am new here, but have been reading the site for years. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Funny how opinions differ. I just swapped my Sony 50ES for a 6950UB and one of the things Iâ€™️m disliking about the Epson is that I canâ€™️t use frame interpolation on 4K signals. My Sony had its own implementation of motion-handling and I vastly prefer smooth/clean panning over the jittery mess Iâ€™️m seeing.
> 
> Does anyone know if FI for all screen formats is coming for Epson 5950/6050 models? Or does the firmware upgrade resolve this?
> 
> Here is my projector info - canâ€™️t tell if I need the 1.01 applied or not (is the top 101 it, or the bottom 100?)
Click to expand...

I am almost positive the limitation with frame interpolation is hardware based. The Epson refresh is to slow to do frame interplation and 4k enhancement at the same time.

That said, about the motion.... I am working on that. Quick background. I have had an Epson 4000 for around two years. Just upgraded to the 5050. First thing i noticed was the motion seemed more jittery on the 5050. So far my hypothesis is that the bulb needs to break in and its microflickering. I am going to try to watch some sports with the lights on in high mode for a little and see it that helps. There is no way the 5050 should look like this if the 4000 was fine by my eyes.


----------



## pdoherty972

Seeing an issue using Alaric’s settings. Two of his groups are in Natural mode, one HDR and the other SDR. I put a 4K HDR signal in for doing the HDR one and a 1080P SDR for the other. But even when an HDR signs comes in now it uses the settings for Natural from the last one I put in, which was the SDR. Shouldn’t the projector remember the signal and settings and use the correct one accordingly?

Also are there settings like these that don’t use High power mode? The fan noise is crazy at High on this projector. Can’t believe they released it with this much noise, frankly. With my ceiling mount the projector is right overhead.


----------



## skylarlove1999

pdoherty972 said:


> Seeing an issue using Alaric’s settings. Two of his groups are in Natural mode, one HDR and the other SDR. I put a 4K HDR signal in for doing the HDR one and a 1080P SDR for the other. But even when an HDR signs comes in now it uses the settings for Natural from the last one I put in, which was the SDR. Shouldn’t the projector remember the signal and settings and use the correct one accordingly?
> 
> 
> 
> Also are there settings like these that don’t use High power mode? The fan noise is crazy at High on this projector. Can’t believe they released it with this much noise, frankly. With my ceiling mount the projector is right overhead.


The projector does not detect whether the signal is HDR or SDR. You have to switch. Make sure with Alaric settings you set EDID to expanded if you want the HDR DCI-P3 color space. Alaric has some handshake issues so he does not used expanded. Maybe move your seats closer. With 4k you should be sitting at about 1 foot from the screen for every foot of width. Roughly 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris Corcoran

I am currently calibrating and using HCFR and a i1 display pro plus.

I am brand new to this.

Is it normal for the blue to be way off ? Ik talking like needing to adjust to -20s and-30s on the higher end of the ire scale of 90 and 100. Seems really really off...but it aligns on the HCFR chart and looks ok in person.


----------



## jaredmwright

skylarlove1999 said:


> The projector does not detect whether the signal is HDR or SDR. You have to switch. Make sure with Alaric settings you set EDID to expanded if you want the HDR DCI-P3 color space. Alaric has some handshake issues so he does not used expanded. Maybe move your seats closer. With 4k you should be sitting at about 1 foot from the screen for every foot of width. Roughly
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


My 6050 detects HDR and SDR and switches automatically. Am I misunderstanding the issue? It should detect between the two and adjust accordingly. Or do you mean settings outside of HDR to not adjust when switching between the two?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jaredmwright said:


> My 6050 detects HDR and SDR and switches automatically. Am I misunderstanding the issue? It should detect between the two and adjust accordingly. Or do you mean settings outside of HDR to not adjust when switching between the two?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes the info screen will display that the projector has detected an HDR or SDR signal. It will not change your color mode from digital Cinema to natural. Most individuals have set up saved memories for particular color/picture modes. The Epson 6050 or 5050 do not change color modes based upon the incoming signal.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## [email protected]

*New Projector, Older Receiver*

Hey All,

When I was installing my new 5050UB I realized too late that my Yamaha RX-V685 receiver did not support HDR10 and was stripping it out of the signal on the way to the projector. Initially, it seemed my only choice was to drop another $500-1000 on a new receiver if I wanted to have multiple devices hooked up (AppleTV, Xbox, DirecTV). Fortunately, I found a solution on Amazon from Orei that acts as a HDMI switch and audio extractor. The unit has 4 HDMI inputs and 2 HDMI outputs that allows the splitting of audio/video. So I have one HDMI output going to the 5050UB and the other to my Yamaha. All the latest standards are included (4K, HDR10, HDCP2.2, etc...) and it has perfectly solved my issue. 

Passing this along in case it helps anyone on this thread. The model is UHDS-402A and it costs $90. They also make a single-input version.

-D


----------



## Natrix1973

[email protected] said:


> Hey All,
> 
> When I was installing my new 5050UB I realized too late that my Yamaha RX-V685 receiver did not support HDR10 and was stripping it out of the signal on the way to the projector. Initially, it seemed my only choice was to drop another $500-1000 on a new receiver if I wanted to have multiple devices hooked up (AppleTV, Xbox, DirecTV). Fortunately, I found a solution on Amazon from Orei that acts as a HDMI switch and audio extractor. The unit has 4 HDMI inputs and 2 HDMI outputs that allows the splitting of audio/video. So I have one HDMI output going to the 5050UB and the other to my Yamaha. All the latest standards are included (4K, HDR10, HDCP2.2, etc...) and it has perfectly solved my issue.
> 
> Passing this along in case it helps anyone on this thread. The model is UHDS-402A and it costs $90. They also make a single-input version.
> 
> -D


Hate to break it to you but your Yamaha should pass 4k HDR just fine, you should change the HDMI mode to mode 1 in the advanced set up menu. Mode 1 allows for the higher bandwidth signals. Mode 2 is the default setting. Page 138 of the manual.


----------



## [email protected]

Natrix1973 said:


> Hate to break it to you but your Yamaha should pass 4k HDR just fine, you should change the HDMI mode to mode 1 in the advanced set up menu. Mode 1 allows for the higher bandwidth signals. Mode 2 is the default setting. Page 138 of the manual.


You're right, I'm just an idiot who owns the Yamaha RX-V677.


----------



## pdoherty972

gunlife said:


> I am almost positive the limitation with frame interpolation is hardware based. The Epson refresh is to slow to do frame interplation and 4k enhancement at the same time.
> 
> That said, about the motion.... I am working on that. Quick background. I have had an Epson 4000 for around two years. Just upgraded to the 5050. First thing i noticed was the motion seemed more jittery on the 5050. So far my hypothesis is that the bulb needs to break in and its microflickering. I am going to try to watch some sports with the lights on in high mode for a little and see it that helps. There is no way the 5050 should look like this if the 4000 was fine by my eyes.


You could well be right about it not being fast enough for 4K enhance and FI at the same time. Hoping not since this is their flagship unit, right?


----------



## pdoherty972

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes the info screen will display that the projector has detected an HDR or SDR signal. It will not change your color mode from digital Cinema to natural. Most individuals have set up saved memories for particular color/picture modes. The Epson 6050 or 5050 do not change color modes based upon the incoming signal.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Not wanting it to choose a different color profile. I’m wanting it to use Natural as Alaric’s settings call for for both HDR and SDR and detect which (HDR or SDR) is the incoming signal. What I’m seeing is:

- Put in 4K HDR signal and set Natural according to his settings
- Input 1080 SDR and modify Natural to his settings

Now switch signal back to an HDR 4K signal and it’s still using the SDR settings I put in for SDR, as if it doesn’t know HDR 4K is the signal.


----------



## Luminated67

pdoherty972 said:


> Not wanting it to choose a different color profile. I’m wanting it to use Natural as Alaric’s settings call for for both HDR and SDR and detect which (HDR or SDR) is the incoming signal. What I’m seeing is:
> 
> - Put in 4K HDR signal and set Natural according to his settings
> - Input 1080 SDR and modify Natural to his settings
> 
> Now switch signal back to an HDR 4K signal and it’s still using the SDR settings I put in for SDR, as if it doesn’t know HDR 4K is the signal.


Unfortunately the Epson doesn’t do what you want, if you want to use two different Natural settings for both SDR and HDR then you’ll have to save them as presets and recall the appropriate one for whichever thing you happen to be watching.


----------



## jaredmwright

Luminated67 said:


> Unfortunately the Epson doesn’t do what you want, if you want to use two different Natural settings for both SDR and HDR then you’ll have to save them as presets and recall the appropriate one for whichever thing you happen to be watching.


Is this worth asking from Epson as part of a firmware update? Seems like something they may be open to hearing as a feature improvement. Maybe reach out and ask, can't hurt.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

jaredmwright said:


> Is this worth asking from Epson as part of a firmware update? Seems like something they may be open to hearing as a feature improvement. Maybe reach out and ask, can't hurt.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Anything is possible.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jaredmwright said:


> Is this worth asking from Epson as part of a firmware update? Seems like something they may be open to hearing as a feature improvement. Maybe reach out and ask, can't hurt.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I have asked in person, via email and text to Rodrigo Catalan, Senior Product Manager Epson. They are looking into it. Do not hold your breath.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## pdoherty972

Isn’t that like the most basic of concepts, for the projector or TV to detect the input in use and the video signal and any setting made are applied to that combo when it’s seen again? It’s what my Sony TV does.


----------



## DavidinGA

pdoherty972 said:


> I find it equally baffling how people can prefer jutter/stutter from low frame rate film on their expensive home theater screens. Just because old school film was 24 frames a second doesn’t mean that’s good. Nothing about that jumpy image screams quality to me. It’s also ironic that the same people who decry this smoothing of film want the fastest 4K/60 FPS so gaming is smoother.
> 
> 
> 
> After swapping my Sony for the Epson 6050UB yesterday I went to the opening scene with the police car crossing the bridge in the remake (Bruce Willis) 4K HDR of Death Wish. Colors didn’t pop in the police lights like they do on my 75” Sony 900F TV, and the initial pan when approaching the bridge was terrible as the buildings basically “hopped” as the pan flew across them.
> 
> 
> 
> There’s a reason why the more-expensive Sony and JVCs have this motion smoothing and it isn’t because it sucks or no one wants it. If you don’t like it you can always just turn it off (notwithstanding the current discussion on whether it’s actually still in effect when off on these Epsons- my opinion it’s off, hence my complaint).
> 
> 
> 
> How can people prefer that to a smooth image? Does the world look like that with your eyes? No, so why would you prefer it on screen?


It's all a compromise...somewhere.

I would prefer so y or jvc level motion on my 5040, but neither the Sony or jvc offer the lumens I need for a 150" hdr display. So for me I chose lumens for better hdr (and saving a bunch of money lol) over motion.... 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## bobbydinker

got the 5050ub yesterday. i always struggle with installation. 

How much keystone is too much and anyone have any tips to help avoid using that or features to move the lens etc


----------



## jch2

bobbydinker said:


> got the 5050ub yesterday. i always struggle with installation.
> 
> How much keystone is too much and anyone have any tips to help avoid using that or features to move the lens etc


You should be able to set it up with proper levelling using only focus, zoom, and lens shift. Lens shift doesn't affect image quality, but keystone does. You ask, how much keystone is too much? In my opinion, any keystone is too much. Try to get everything (screen, mount, projector, etc) level instead of using keystone. If you get everything level, you should not need to use keystone at all.


----------



## fredworld

Quote:
Originally Posted by *bobbydinker*  
_got the 5050ub yesterday. i always struggle with installation. 

How much keystone is too much and anyone have any tips to help avoid using that or features to move the lens etc_




jch2 said:


> You should be able to set it up with proper levelling using only focus, zoom, and lens shift. Lens shift doesn't affect image quality, but keystone does. You ask, how much keystone is too much? In my opinion, any keystone is too much. Try to get everything (screen, mount, projector, etc) level instead of using keystone. If you get everything level, you should not need to use keystone at all.



Absent being able to mount as described above, I had to ceiling mount my 5050 with the lens center 9" from the ceiling, a throw distance of about 13'9" and the projector pitched at about 20°. The top of my screen is 11" from the ceiling. In answer to your question, "How much keystone is too much...?" It should become obvious... but honestly I never got to that point. 
I had no qualms using the Keystone of my 5050UB. "Pattern" in the 5050 is accessible via the remote control and can also be used quite effectively. Using such a geometric test pattern that displays circles in the four corners and center of the image I was able to obtain excellent geometry using the pitch, yaw and roll of my mount and judicious use of the projector's remote controlled lens and Keystone. I use *Spears and Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark* disc for set up..


----------



## jaredmwright

fredworld said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *bobbydinker*
> _got the 5050ub yesterday. i always struggle with installation.
> 
> How much keystone is too much and anyone have any tips to help avoid using that or features to move the lens etc_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absent being able to mount as described above, I had to ceiling mount my 5050 with the lens center 9" from the ceiling, a throw distance of about 13'9" and the projector pitched at about 20°. The top of my screen is 11" from the ceiling. In answer to your question, "How much keystone is too much...?" It should become obvious... but honestly I never got to that point.
> I had no qualms using the Keystone of my 5050UB. "Pattern" in the 5050 is accessible via the remote control and can also be used quite effectively. Using such a geometric test pattern that displays circles in the four corners and center of the image I was able to obtain excellent geometry using the pitch, yaw and roll of my mount and judicious use of the projector's remote controlled lens and Keystone. I use *Spears and Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark* disc for set up..


I second the Spears disc for calibration it really brings out the projectors abilities. I also never had adjusted the alignment, square by square and the convergence of R/B/G was off, highly recommend taking the time to get that right before any calibration also once you get it centered and aligned properly.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

fredworld said:


> Absent being able to mount as described above, I had to ceiling mount my 5050 with the lens center 9" from the ceiling, a throw distance of about 13'9" and the projector pitched at about 20Â°. The top of my screen is 11" from the ceiling.


How were you not able to accomplish this by making the projector level and using lens shift? The Epson has a huge range of vertical lens shift available. My projector lens centerline sits 19" over the top of my 120" 16:9 screen at 15' throw distance (that is WAY over the top, and almost no projector can handle it, but the Epson can), and I'm easily able to fit all aspect ratio material up to 2.35:1 onto my screen with the bottom of the picture lined up with the bottom of my screen mask.

We're there some constraints to your projector mount or mounting location that forced you into a 20 degree downward angle?


----------



## WestCDA

WestCDA said:


> Regarding Fan Noise ...
> 
> I've got a 5050UB arriving on Monday, to replace the 5030UB I have installed now in the inverted ceiling position. From previous posts on AVSForum and testing with my own projector, I know the fan noise on the 5030UB is LESS when the projector is mounted upright (non-inverted). That can easily be tested by simply changing the orientation in the projector menu while in high fan.
> 
> Does anyone know if the 5050UB is the same with the reduction in fan noise?
> 
> If so, I will likely build a ceiling box for the projector and do away with the mount - a side benefit is the increased stability of the platform. I never did the same with the 5030UB as I needed easy access to the shift, zoom and focus dials from underneath, but with the motorized lens system in the 5050UB that is no longer a concern.


For anyone who might be wondering, I'll answer my own question as my new 5050UB arrived earlier than scheduled. 

Yes, the fan noise in the high power setting increases when the ceiling mount (inverted image) option is selected - so I will be going ahead with a ceiling enclosure that lets me mount and run it in 'table top' (non-inverted) mode. Even without taking the fan noise into consideration, I like both the solid platform and the hideaway appearance of a custom ceiling enclosure. 

I was pleasantly surprised to find the fan was quieter than the 5030UB in both low and high (for now, I still have both projectors in the room). And as far as picture, for those who are wondering if this is 'enough' of an upgrade from the 5030UB series - wow, what a difference. I'm zooming the picture to fill a 120" 2:39 Carada screen for cinemascope content, and the picture (both with 4K discs and upconverted conventional blu-rays) is incredible - crisp, detailed, color saturated, bright and absent of any screen door effect from my viewing distance of around 12 feet. I probably have to get to under 7 feet before seeing a very faint (and tiny) grid structure, with better than 20-15 vision in both eyes.

Again - wow.


----------



## bobbydinker

jch2 said:


> You should be able to set it up with proper levelling using only focus, zoom, and lens shift. Lens shift doesn't affect image quality, but keystone does. You ask, how much keystone is too much? In my opinion, any keystone is too much. Try to get everything (screen, mount, projector, etc) level instead of using keystone. If you get everything level, you should not need to use keystone at all.


honestly thank you. Sometimes when you have been playing with all the options around you forget the basics. Took the water level out, balanced out the mount and also instead of pointing the lens lower allowed the lense shift to move the picture. That was key.

I am now at 0 keystone with a bit of lens shifting i am good to go.

taking a break from calibrating it as it seems like its taken me forever to get this far, out of the box its unreal. Apple tv 4K with HDR watching aquaman is just amazing. Also had to get a new receiver the old boy was not cutting it.

Coming from my old benq w1070 its quite a leap.

Thanks again.


----------



## fredworld

jch2 said:


> How were you not able to accomplish this by making the projector level and using lens shift? The Epson has a huge range of vertical lens shift available. My projector lens centerline sits 19" over the top of my 120" 16:9 screen at 15' throw distance (that is WAY over the top, and almost no projector can handle it, but the Epson can), and I'm easily able to fit all aspect ratio material up to 2.35:1 onto my screen with the bottom of the picture lined up with the bottom of my screen mask.
> 
> We're there some constraints to your projector mount or mounting location that forced you into a 20 degree downward angle?



Ha Ha! Forgot to mention that the ceiling height is only 7'. Had to keep heads from hitting the projector, so I mounted it as close to the ceiling as possible. But you make a good point. Someday I'll try adjusting it so it's level and use more lens shift.


----------



## KilgoreT

I'm about to pull the trigger on a 5050UB, and I'm wondering about people's experiences upgrading to the 5050UB from the 5020UB. Has anyone here made that change, and how much of a difference did you see in contrast, black level, resolution, 3d performance, etc? Many thanks in advance!


----------



## skylarlove1999

KilgoreT said:


> I'm about to pull the trigger on a 5050UB, and I'm wondering about people's experiences upgrading to the 5050UB from the 5020UB. Has anyone here made that change, and how much of a difference did you see in contrast, black level, resolution, 3d performance, etc? Many thanks in advance!


Just go back four posts. The 5020 is a black and white TV . The 5050 is color so to speak. The difference is that glaring.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## purduesd

DavidinGA said:


> It's all a compromise...somewhere.
> 
> I would prefer so y or jvc level motion on my 5040, but neither the Sony or jvc offer the lumens I need for a 150" hdr display. So for me I chose lumens for better hdr (and saving a bunch of money lol) over motion....
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


How long is your throw on the 5040 for the your 150" screen, and what is your screen gain? 
Im considering a 5050 with a 150" AT screen . 

Plenty bright for you? and HDR?


----------



## spacedawg

*Faint Rectangle in Center of Image*

Ok guys, need ya’lls expertise on this one. After reading up on everything possible I finally bit the bullet on the 5050ub and I was ecstatic with the picture...until I started calibrating. On bright images I can see a faint rectangle about 1’ high by 4” wide in the upper center of the screen. I’ve confirmed it with a couple of different sources, as well as confirming it wasn’t the HDMI cable by running the projector without the source receiver on. Also, it oddly does not move when I shift the image using lens shift.

I checked my screen (Elite Screens Aeon 120”) and it looks normal, I don’t see any looseness and there’s no strut or support bar behind the rectangle I’m seeing. I never saw anything like this with my previous projector (BenQ HT2150ST), but it was a short throw and wasn’t nearly as bright, so I can’t guarantee it wasn’t there. Just to be sure, I’m gonna get the old projector out and throw up a white screen and see if I notice anything.

I don’t recall coming across an issue like this when reading this thread before, unless this is some form of “dust blob”, which doesn’t seem likely given the geometry. Has anyone seen anything like this from the 5050ub or elsewhere (like a chip issue)?

I’m still within my Amazon return window for an easy exchange, wouldn’t that be more convenient than going through Epson?

Thanks all.


----------



## DavidinGA

purduesd said:


> How long is your throw on the 5040 for the your 150" screen, and what is your screen gain?
> 
> Im considering a 5050 with a 150" AT screen .
> 
> 
> 
> Plenty bright for you? and HDR?


My throw is about 18ft lens to screen.

Gain is 1.1

Hdr is plenty bright on medium lamp WITH MadVR. Without madVR you'll definitely need to run high lamp and you still may not be real happy with hdr.

SDR is fantastic in any mode for brightness. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidinGA said:


> My throw is about 18ft lens to screen.
> 
> Gain is 1.1
> 
> Hdr is plenty bright on medium lamp WITH MadVR. Without madVR you'll definitely need to run high lamp and you still may not be real happy with hdr.
> 
> SDR is fantastic in any mode for brightness.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


madVR makes a huge difference for HDR, especially on a large AT screen. So I agree with the comments above about HDR. @DavidinGA has madVR to compensate. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

spacedawg said:


> Ok guys, need ya’lls expertise on this one. After reading up on everything possible I finally bit the bullet on the 5050ub and I was ecstatic with the picture...until I started calibrating. On bright images I can see a faint rectangle about 1’ high by 4” wide in the upper center of the screen. I’ve confirmed it with a couple of different sources, as well as confirming it wasn’t the HDMI cable by running the projector without the source receiver on. Also, it oddly does not move when I shift the image using lens shift.
> 
> 
> 
> I checked my screen (Elite Screens Aeon 120”) and it looks normal, I don’t see any looseness and there’s no strut or support bar behind the rectangle I’m seeing. I never saw anything like this with my previous projector (BenQ HT2150ST), but it was a short throw and wasn’t nearly as bright, so I can’t guarantee it wasn’t there. Just to be sure, I’m gonna get the old projector out and throw up a white screen and see if I notice anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I don’t recall coming across an issue like this when reading this thread before, unless this is some form of “dust blob”, which doesn’t seem likely given the geometry. Has anyone seen anything like this from the 5050ub or elsewhere (like a chip issue)?
> 
> 
> 
> I’m still within my Amazon return window for an easy exchange, wouldn’t that be more convenient than going through Epson?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks all.


I would return to Amazon. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

spacedawg said:


> Ok guys, need ya’lls expertise on this one. After reading up on everything possible I finally bit the bullet on the 5050ub and I was ecstatic with the picture...until I started calibrating. On bright images I can see a faint rectangle about 1’ high by 4” wide in the upper center of the screen. I’ve confirmed it with a couple of different sources, as well as confirming it wasn’t the HDMI cable by running the projector without the source receiver on. Also, it oddly does not move when I shift the image using lens shift.
> 
> I checked my screen (Elite Screens Aeon 120”) and it looks normal, I don’t see any looseness and there’s no strut or support bar behind the rectangle I’m seeing. I never saw anything like this with my previous projector (BenQ HT2150ST), but it was a short throw and wasn’t nearly as bright, so I can’t guarantee it wasn’t there. Just to be sure, I’m gonna get the old projector out and throw up a white screen and see if I notice anything.
> 
> I don’t recall coming across an issue like this when reading this thread before, unless this is some form of “dust blob”, which doesn’t seem likely given the geometry. Has anyone seen anything like this from the 5050ub or elsewhere (like a chip issue)?
> 
> I’m still within my Amazon return window for an easy exchange, wouldn’t that be more convenient than going through Epson?
> 
> Thanks all.


The fact that it doesn't move with lens shift eliminates any imaging issue in the optical block. That leaves a possible flaw in the lens of the projector or the screen. Physically move the projector if it doesn't move then it is the screen. Alternately try a white piece of printer paper against that spot on the screen. I have a similar issue with my screen that only shows with my JVC and not with my DLP but I know it is a strut behind the screen.


----------



## Barrettmr

KilgoreT said:


> I'm about to pull the trigger on a 5050UB, and I'm wondering about people's experiences upgrading to the 5050UB from the 5020UB. Has anyone here made that change, and how much of a difference did you see in contrast, black level, resolution, 3d performance, etc? Many thanks in advance!


You will NOT be disappointed! I did the same upgrade (posted about it here somewhere) and I can confirm the 5050UB is a big step up from my 5020UB. I have it paired with the Pano 820 and my bluray collection looks totally amazing, 4K HDR content is great as well obviously and content from a media server with some high level MadVR is also brilliant on this projector!

I should add, 3D is better IMO and my daughter who really struggled with 3D on the 5020UB had no issues watching it on the 5050UB (not sure why) and the auto iris works brilliantly on the 5050UB whereas on the 5020UB I had it turned off all the time as I could see a flickering effect during some scenes. On the 5050UB is was on by default and I have not changed it once!


----------



## pete ramberg

Barrettmr said:


> You will NOT be disappointed! I did the same upgrade (posted about it here somewhere) and I can confirm the 5050UB is a big step up from my 5020UB. I have it paired with the Pano 820 and my bluray collection looks totally amazing, 4K HDR content is great as well obviously and content from a media server with some high level MadVR is also brilliant on this projector!
> 
> I should add, 3D is better IMO and my daughter who really struggled with 3D on the 5020UB had no issues watching it on the 5050UB (not sure why) and the auto iris works brilliantly on the 5050UB whereas on the 5020UB I had it turned off all the time as I could see a flickering effect during some scenes. On the 5050UB is was on by default and I have not changed it once!



I did the same upgrade from the 5020 to the 5050.
The 5020 is lovely, but it is no match for the 5050. Agree with your assessment of the auto iris. I have it on 'fast' mode and it really blends well with normal fades in a movie or TV show. The iris looks like it is a part of the fade from one scene to another - or a fade into and out of black. Really happy with the iris.


----------



## spacedawg

rekbones said:


> The fact that it doesn't move with lens shift eliminates any imaging issue in the optical block. That leaves a possible flaw in the lens of the projector or the screen. Physically move the projector if it doesn't move then it is the screen. Alternately try a white piece of printer paper against that spot on the screen. I have a similar issue with my screen that only shows with my JVC and not with my DLP but I know it is a strut behind the screen.


Those are great suggestions. Tried both. Didn’t show up on printer paper and didn’t move with yawing and pitching projector, so I guess it’s the screen. So weird. Anything I can do? It’s an Elite Screens Aeon. Wondering if it’s loosened a bit on the sides?


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Guys.

Wtf.

I'm pulling my hair out trying to calibrate this.

I'm using HCFR and i1 display pro plus.

I have a diy 138" screen and the projector is mounted as close as a possibly can so the zoom is fully open giving as much light as possible. Screen gain is between .7 and .9 and my room is fully light controlled.

I can not get more than 17 footlamps/ 58 nits !!!!!!

I am using natural mode high lamp. Gamma is 0 and I cant get it any higher? This makes zero sense based on what the projector is rated for. Any tips?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Chris Corcoran said:


> Guys.
> 
> 
> 
> Wtf.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pulling my hair out trying to calibrate this.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using HCFR and i1 display pro plus.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a diy 138" screen and the projector is mounted as close as a possibly can so the zoom is fully open giving as much light as possible. Screen gain is between .7 and .9 and my room is fully light controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> I can not get more than 17 footlamps/ 58 nits !!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I am using natural mode high lamp. Gamma is 0 and I cant get it any higher? This makes zero sense based on what the projector is rated for. Any tips?


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app

Maybe this thread will help troubleshoot. I agree your results seem to be off even for a negative gain screen based upon your throw distance and the color mode and lamp you are using.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## KilgoreT

Barrettmr said:


> You will NOT be disappointed! I did the same upgrade (posted about it here somewhere) and I can confirm the 5050UB is a big step up from my 5020UB. I have it paired with the Pano 820 and my bluray collection looks totally amazing, 4K HDR content is great as well obviously and content from a media server with some high level MadVR is also brilliant on this projector!
> 
> I should add, 3D is better IMO and my daughter who really struggled with 3D on the 5020UB had no issues watching it on the 5050UB (not sure why) and the auto iris works brilliantly on the 5050UB whereas on the 5020UB I had it turned off all the time as I could see a flickering effect during some scenes. On the 5050UB is was on by default and I have not changed it once!


Very glad to hear all of this. I’ve ordered and I’m looking forward to the upgrades. I’ve had the same issues with flicker using the iris on the 5020. I’m glad to hear this is resolved. Also looking forward to the 3D improvements. I’ve found 3D on the 5020 to be hard to enjoy with a lot of ghosting. I’ve seen much better 3D on a friends DLP projector (though the color accuracy and black level were poor). Thanks!


----------



## DavidinGA

Chris Corcoran said:


> Guys.
> 
> 
> 
> Wtf.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pulling my hair out trying to calibrate this.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using HCFR and i1 display pro plus.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a diy 138" screen and the projector is mounted as close as a possibly can so the zoom is fully open giving as much light as possible. Screen gain is between .7 and .9 and my room is fully light controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> I can not get more than 17 footlamps/ 58 nits !!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I am using natural mode high lamp. Gamma is 0 and I cant get it any higher? This makes zero sense based on what the projector is rated for. Any tips?


Wow...

I have a 150" and I see almost 80 nits on natural and medium lamp. 1.1 gain screen

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Barrettmr said:


> You will NOT be disappointed! I did the same upgrade (posted about it here somewhere) and I can confirm the 5050UB is a big step up from my 5020UB. I have it paired with the Pano 820 and my bluray collection looks totally amazing, 4K HDR content is great as well obviously and content from a media server with some high level MadVR is also brilliant on this projector!
> 
> 
> 
> I should add, 3D is better IMO and my daughter who really struggled with 3D on the 5020UB had no issues watching it on the 5050UB (not sure why) and the auto iris works brilliantly on the 5050UB whereas on the 5020UB I had it turned off all the time as I could see a flickering effect during some scenes. On the 5050UB is was on by default and I have not changed it once!


What glasses are you using for 3D?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## travis1041

Chris Corcoran said:


> Guys.
> 
> 
> 
> Wtf.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pulling my hair out trying to calibrate this.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using HCFR and i1 display pro plus.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a diy 138" screen and the projector is mounted as close as a possibly can so the zoom is fully open giving as much light as possible. Screen gain is between .7 and .9 and my room is fully light controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> I can not get more than 17 footlamps/ 58 nits !!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I am using natural mode high lamp. Gamma is 0 and I cant get it any higher? This makes zero sense based on what the projector is rated for. Any tips?


What settings are you using in HCFR?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Barrettmr

biglen said:


> What glasses are you using for 3D?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Just the Epson ones that came with the 5020UB and I have a 2 pair of cheap Samsung ones (can't remember the part#) which I got cheap but can't source any more. They have a switch that puts them into 2D mode which is how my daughter had to use them when watching 3D movies with me. They are slightly lighter in weight and a little smaller - both work very well IMO


----------



## fredworld

Barrettmr said:


> Just the Epson ones that came with the 5020UB and I have a 2 pair of cheap Samsung ones (can't remember the part#) which I got cheap but can't source any more. They have a switch that puts them into 2D mode which is how my daughter had to use them when watching 3D movies with me. They are slightly lighter in weight and a little smaller - both work very well IMO



I use the Samsung Ssg5100gb 3D glasses. Quite inexpensive and they work great. Search around they are readily available on Ebay an Amazon.


----------



## Dilema

Hi. Can you advice me what settings should I use for MadVR settings for best hdr experience? I was using pass-through so far but read somewhere that a dynamic setting is better. Also I have noticed that 4:4:4 colour is better blacks compared to 4:2:2 set in control panel so I have to run 23Hz when watching movies. I have no idea how set up MadVR and hard to find info on the net for my 6050 projector. I have 150 inch screen so my peak nits at high lamp natural mode (this is how I watch) is around 100 I believe. Any advice will be much appreciated.


----------



## dloiphone

Anyone using the Samsung SSG-4100GB glasses with the 6050? Looking into diving into the 3D realm finally


Edit: just noticed someone using the 5100gb, which I’m guessing are newer model 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris Corcoran

travis1041 said:


> Chris Corcoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> Guys.
> 
> 
> 
> Wtf.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pulling my hair out trying to calibrate this.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using HCFR and i1 display pro plus.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a diy 138" screen and the projector is mounted as close as a possibly can so the zoom is fully open giving as much light as possible. Screen gain is between .7 and .9 and my room is fully light controlled.
> 
> 
> 
> I can not get more than 17 footlamps/ 58 nits !!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I am using natural mode high lamp. Gamma is 0 and I cant get it any higher? This makes zero sense based on what the projector is rated for. Any tips?
> 
> 
> 
> What settings are you using in HCFR?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I think it would be faster to let me know what I should be using as I'm new to this.


And also, if in calibrating hdr what color space do I calibrate to when using natural model with no color filter. Vs digital cinema that engages the filter ?

Thanks


----------



## seanb61

In the 5050UB club as of Saturday, coming from a Panasonic AE8000 in same screen. Finally got it all tuned in. Here’s a picture. 92 inch Carada cinema white screen. About 10ft away. The image is from Netflix 4K HDR Our Planet Episode 2


----------



## gene4ht

seanb61 said:


> In the 5050UB club as of Saturday, coming from a Panasonic AE8000 in same screen. Finally got it all tuned in. Here’s a picture. 92 inch Carada cinema white screen. About 10ft away. The image is from Netflix 4K HDR Our Planet Episode 2


What’s your initial assessment of the 5050 over the 8000 in terms of brightness, contrast, color, sharpness, etc.? A comparison of these elements would be helpful/beneficial for those considering a possible upgrade. Also, comparing one of you favorite “quality” BR’s or 4K UHD’s would provide a better and consistent source than NF images.


----------



## seanb61

gene4ht said:


> seanb61 said:
> 
> 
> 
> In the 5050UB club as of Saturday, coming from a Panasonic AE8000 in same screen. Finally got it all tuned in. Hereâ€™️s a picture. 92 inch Carada cinema white screen. About 10ft away. The image is from Netflix 4K HDR Our Planet Episode 2
> 
> 
> 
> Whatâ€™️s your initial assessment of the 5050 over the 8000 in terms of brightness, contrast, color, sharpness, etc.? A comparison of these elements would be helpful/beneficial for those considering a possible upgrade. Also, comparing one of you favorite â€œqualityâ€ BRâ€™️s or 4K UHDâ€™️s would provide a better and consistent source than NF images.
Click to expand...

Two words: worth it. 

Sold the panny for $700. I mean, the panny was amazing but this is another in another league all together in all areas.


----------



## Barrettmr

Dilema said:


> Hi. Can you advice me what settings should I use for MadVR settings for best hdr experience? I was using pass-through so far but read somewhere that a dynamic setting is better. Also I have noticed that 4:4:4 colour is better blacks compared to 4:2:2 set in control panel so I have to run 23Hz when watching movies. I have no idea how set up MadVR and hard to find info on the net for my 6050 projector. I have 150 inch screen so my peak nits at high lamp natural mode (this is how I watch) is around 100 I believe. Any advice will be much appreciated.


I have been learning to setup and use MadVR for some time and there can be a lot to learn lol. My recommendation is make sure you have a good GFX card (I ended up with nVidia 1070 for now) such as RTX2070S or higher if you want to use the higher setting options and search on YouTube where you will find some really good tutorials.


----------



## noob00224

Dilema said:


> Hi. Can you advice me what settings should I use for MadVR settings for best hdr experience? I was using pass-through so far but read somewhere that a dynamic setting is better. Also I have noticed that 4:4:4 colour is better blacks compared to 4:2:2 set in control panel so I have to run 23Hz when watching movies. I have no idea how set up MadVR and hard to find info on the net for my 6050 projector. I have 150 inch screen so my peak nits at high lamp natural mode (this is how I watch) is around 100 I believe. Any advice will be much appreciated.


The settings are individualized. Have to researcher.

These issues have been discussed, just look through the threads:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2215490-madvr-player-support-thread-65.html

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-h...2364113-guide-building-4k-htpc-madvr-135.html


----------



## Jason Young

*Distance from ceiling mount*

Hi, completely new to all this. 
Trying to pick out ceiling mount. Thinking of going with the PCMD based on feedback here. 
Using Epson's calculator it appears as though I should hang the projector 3'5" feet from ceiling. 
Seems like a lot. Does that sound right? Am I doing this right? 
Attaching a screen shot so you can see the measurements. 
Thanks.


----------



## noob00224

Jason Young said:


> Hi, completely new to all this.
> Trying to pick out ceiling mount. Thinking of going with the PCMD based on feedback here.
> Using Epson's calculator it appears as though I should hang the projector 3'5" feet from ceiling.
> Seems like a lot. Does that sound right? Am I doing this right?
> Attaching a screen shot so you can see the measurements.
> Thanks.


After you input you setup (screen, distance, etc), at the bottom of the page there is a section called lens shift which will tell you how far up for example the projector can be placed:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm


----------



## WestCDA

Jason Young said:


> Hi, completely new to all this.
> Trying to pick out ceiling mount. Thinking of going with the PCMD based on feedback here.
> Using Epson's calculator it appears as though I should hang the projector 3'5" feet from ceiling.
> Seems like a lot. Does that sound right? Am I doing this right?
> Attaching a screen shot so you can see the measurements.
> Thanks.


Basically, no - you're not doing it right. The Epson has a massive amount of vertical shift available, of which not much is needed with the measly 1 foot distance from the ceiling to the top of your screen. You can put your projector as close to the ceiling as you want. 

Download the projector manual, and it shows you exactly what dimensions you can work with - this is one of the most accommodating projectors on the market as far as placement is concerned. 

I haven't used Epson's online tool, but if you look at the left hand side of your screen shot it shows lens shift 'off'.


----------



## Pretorian

Have anyone tried the new TERMINATOR DARK FATE movie with this projector?

There are some dark scenes when I almost thought there was something wrong with the projector.


----------



## spiroh

Can the bulbs be purchased without any housing so that I can save money? If so which bulbs do I need to purchase?

Thanks


----------



## olegg

Jason Young said:


> Hi, completely new to all this.
> Trying to pick out ceiling mount. Thinking of going with the PCMD based on feedback here.
> Using Epson's calculator it appears as though I should hang the projector 3'5" feet from ceiling.
> Seems like a lot. Does that sound right? Am I doing this right?
> Attaching a screen shot so you can see the measurements.
> Thanks.


Would you please share the link for Epson Calculator. Thanks.


----------



## Jason Young

I cannot post links yet. But if google "epson screen calculator". Usaully first result.


----------



## Dilema

Barrettmr said:


> I have been learning to setup and use MadVR for some time and there can be a lot to learn lol. My recommendation is make sure you have a good GFX card (I ended up with nVidia 1070 for now) such as RTX2070S or higher if you want to use the higher setting options and search on YouTube where you will find some really good tutorials.


My HTPC is equipped with RTX2080 OC version and I5 8600k at 5Ghz so I believe that should be sufficient.

I have reviewed most of the quoted threats but couldn't find the answer to my question.
I have tried some of the suggested settings for 2160p hdr playback but they seem look not as good as just pastrough where Graphic card is set to 23Hz, 12bit, 4:4:4.

What I have noticed on 6050ub is that when it is set to 24Hz 4:4:4 12 bit it has better contrast and better black level in comparison to 60Hz 4:2:2 and 12 bit (the difference is subtle however for a trained eye is visible especially in the dark scenes). Not sure is this signal or projector itself which runs e-shift at higher frequency. I have noticed that many months ago already and since then always when watch movies switch to lower HZ and 4:4:4.

The problem is (which is not answered in the linked threats) that when i set it to 23hz 4:4:4 and in MadVr is set a dynamic tone mapping and also the highlight recovery strenght anything than none the movies are not smooth. I have tried multiple madVR options and it is always like that. When I switch to 60Hz (but then I have to use 4:2:2) then everything is smooth like it should be, but I lose the little bit better black level and contrast in the dark scenes (not sure everyone is able to notice the difference but I can). Did anyone experience that issue on Epson and is able to help me? 

WHy Epson does not run smooth at 23Hz 4:4:4 12 bit signal with MadVR dynamic tone mapping and highlight recovery strenght set to anything else than none?


----------



## olegg

Jason Young said:


> I cannot post links yet. But if google "epson screen calculator". Usaully first result.


The reason I asked for the link, that my version of Calculator looks very simple almost stripped down. Are you using the Flash version perhaps? Thanks for responding.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

I have a question regards to the HDR button and its options.

Being new to HDR I have a lot of confusion. It seems there is no standard ? Unlike HD rec709?

I find that some movies look good at setting 1, while others look so washed out I need to step down to 7 or 8.

Why is this ? This also has me questioning on the proper way to calibrate for HDR.

What setting should I be in to calibrate ? Wont all levels, greyscale and color etc be off if I calibrate in HDR slider 1, but then have to step to HDR 8 to make a movie look right ?


When I test this via HCFR using i1 display pro it throws the delta E off for all colors.

Tha ms for any input in advance.


----------



## johnsonrd

gene4ht said:


> What’s your initial assessment of the 5050 over the 8000 in terms of brightness, contrast, color, sharpness, etc.? A comparison of these elements would be helpful/beneficial for those considering a possible upgrade. Also, comparing one of you favorite “quality” BR’s or 4K UHD’s would provide a better and consistent source than NF images.


I went from the AE8000 to a 5040UB and there's seriously no comparison. It took me a long time to make the jump to the 5040UB because I was so happy with the 8000...but once I found a great deal on a used one and installed it I was kicking myself for not doing it sooner. Sold the 5040UB after about a month and just received the 5050UB. I don't have the screen shots but just the viewing quality was immediately noticed by my wife who really doesn't care about any of this stuff as long as its view-able. She was impressed.


----------



## arjunrk67

Hi, I'm new to this forum so sorry for just taking things off topic. I too own a Epson EH-TW9400 (Which is same as the 5050UB). I am facing a problem in aligning my projector with my screen. The problem I'm facing is that my screen is curved and because of this my image is not perfectly aligning with the screen's edges. Right now I have aligned the projector such that the upper edge of the image is perfectly aligned while the lower edge of the image is being projected on the frame of the screen kind off spilling below the lower frame. I'm new to this home theater world. And would love to know if its possible to somehow curve the projecting image to fit my screen. I have researched about software warp like immersaview and some other softwares but I want this to work with every device I use with my projector and not just my PC. Also can a anamorphic lens solve my problem.
My setup is as follows:-

Projector - Epson EH-TW9400
Projector Screen (Curved) (16:9)- 131"x74", 150"(Diagonally)
AVR - Denon X4500H
Speaker Systems (7.4.1) - Klipsch Reference Premier Series


----------



## jaredmwright

arjunrk67 said:


> Hi, I'm new to this forum so sorry for just taking things off topic. I too own a Epson EH-TW9400 (Which is same as the 5050UB). I am facing a problem in aligning my projector with my screen. The problem I'm facing is that my screen is curved and because of this my image is not perfectly aligning with the screen's edges. Right now I have aligned the projector such that the upper edge of the image is perfectly aligned while the lower edge of the image is being projected on the frame of the screen kind off spilling below the lower frame. I'm new to this home theater world. And would love to know if its possible to somehow curve the projecting image to fit my screen. I have researched about software warp like immersaview and some other softwares but I want this to work with every device I use with my projector and not just my PC. Also can a anamorphic lens solve my problem.
> 
> My setup is as follows:-
> 
> 
> 
> Projector - Epson EH-TW9400
> 
> Projector Screen (Curved) (16:9)- 131"x74", 150"(Diagonally)
> 
> AVR - Denon X4500H
> 
> Speaker Systems (7.4.1) - Klipsch Reference Premier Series


When you say align, do you mean fit to only the screen without any overscan area or do you mean the image isn't clear everywhere, for example where the convergence is off. Two different issues.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

arjunrk67 said:


> Hi, I'm new to this forum so sorry for just taking things off topic. I too own a Epson EH-TW9400 (Which is same as the 5050UB). I am facing a problem in aligning my projector with my screen. The problem I'm facing is that my screen is curved and because of this my image is not perfectly aligning with the screen's edges. Right now I have aligned the projector such that the upper edge of the image is perfectly aligned while the lower edge of the image is being projected on the frame of the screen kind off spilling below the lower frame. I'm new to this home theater world. And would love to know if its possible to somehow curve the projecting image to fit my screen. I have researched about software warp like immersaview and some other softwares but I want this to work with every device I use with my projector and not just my PC. Also can a anamorphic lens solve my problem.
> My setup is as follows:-
> 
> Projector - Epson EH-TW9400
> Projector Screen (Curved) (16:9)- 131"x74", 150"(Diagonally)
> AVR - Denon X4500H
> Speaker Systems (7.4.1) - Klipsch Reference Premier Series


Sounds like my issue, but my screen is flat. While my wall is very slightly out of plumb, that is not the problem. See, below. Can you post a picture?


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Chris Corcoran said:


> I have a question regards to the HDR button and its options.
> 
> Being new to HDR I have a lot of confusion. It seems there is no standard ? Unlike HD rec709?
> 
> I find that some movies look good at setting 1, while others look so washed out I need to step down to 7 or 8.
> 
> Why is this ? This also has me questioning on the proper way to calibrate for HDR.
> 
> What setting should I be in to calibrate ? Wont all levels, greyscale and color etc be off if I calibrate in HDR slider 1, but then have to step to HDR 8 to make a movie look right ?
> 
> 
> When I test this via HCFR using i1 display pro it throws the delta E off for all colors.
> 
> Tha ms for any input in advance.


anyone ?


----------



## rekbones

arjunrk67 said:


> Hi, I'm new to this forum so sorry for just taking things off topic. I too own a Epson EH-TW9400 (Which is same as the 5050UB). I am facing a problem in aligning my projector with my screen. The problem I'm facing is that my screen is curved and because of this my image is not perfectly aligning with the screen's edges. Right now I have aligned the projector such that the upper edge of the image is perfectly aligned while the lower edge of the image is being projected on the frame of the screen kind off spilling below the lower frame. I'm new to this home theater world. And would love to know if its possible to somehow curve the projecting image to fit my screen. I have researched about software warp like immersaview and some other softwares but I want this to work with every device I use with my projector and not just my PC. Also can a anamorphic lens solve my problem.
> My setup is as follows:-
> 
> Projector - Epson EH-TW9400
> Projector Screen (Curved) (16:9)- 131"x74", 150"(Diagonally)
> AVR - Denon X4500H
> Speaker Systems (7.4.1) - Klipsch Reference Premier Series


Projectors optics are designed for a flat screen. When you introduce a curved screen the center of the screen is farther away then the sides so the image is larger in the center creating what's called barrel distortion. An "A" lens generally creates a keystone distortion so it can off set the barrel distortion. Very expensive "A" lens can even adjust for this. So you either need an "A" lens or just live with it and have the black felt border absorb the over spill in the center. If you have a zero edge screen I could see where an "A" lens might be your only option. On some projectors this can often effect focus but not generally as most remain in focus regardless of throw distance.

EDIT: Curved screens look cool with the lights on but have virtually no practical effect on a 1.0 gain screen. On an ALR high gain screen they help eliminate hot spotting as the curve reflects the edges more towards the viewer so the angles are more efficient reducing the brighter spot typical in flat high gain screens


----------



## Barrettmr

Dilema said:


> My HTPC is equipped with RTX2080 OC version and I5 8600k at 5Ghz so I believe that should be sufficient.
> 
> The problem is (which is not answered in the linked threats) that when i set it to 23hz 4:4:4 and in MadVr is set a dynamic tone mapping and also the highlight recovery strenght anything than none the movies are not smooth. I have tried multiple madVR options and it is always like that. When I switch to 60Hz (but then I have to use 4:2:2) then everything is smooth like it should be, but I lose the little bit better black level and contrast in the dark scenes (not sure everyone is able to notice the difference but I can). Did anyone experience that issue on Epson and is able to help me?
> 
> WHy Epson does not run smooth at 23Hz 4:4:4 12 bit signal with MadVR dynamic tone mapping and highlight recovery strenght set to anything else than none?


I would recommend asking in the official support forum, lots of great people there can help you I am sure
http://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=146228


----------



## Barrettmr

Pretorian said:


> Have anyone tried the new TERMINATOR DARK FATE movie with this projector?
> 
> There are some dark scenes when I almost thought there was something wrong with the projector.


Just got that movie and will be watching tomorrow. What was the issue, can you explain in more detail and which scene(s) #?

I only have 120 hrs on my unit but was planning to do some DIY calibration this weekend. The out of the box settings have been great so far on the default digital cinema mode.


----------



## MMoser

Chris Corcoran said:


> anyone ?


Fair warning! HDR with a pj is a rabbit hole, both delightful and frustrating. 

We thankfully have the option of adjusting the hdr slider as there is still no universal standard for what studios master hdr peak brightness/nits to. (Which gave rise to tone mapping displays and mastering titles with dynamic metadata such as Dolby Vision and HDR10+.) 

Our projectors don't have the capability to perform well with high nit content like a TV would, so we have a hdr slider to help compensate for the different contents nit level. Some movies can be on the high side being mastered at 4000 nits, others could be as low as 400 nits. The HDR spec officially allows up to a searing peak of 10,000 nits! Rec709 is mastered to a peak of 100 nits. 

Because of the different mastering levels, many projector users implement some form of tone mapping to help balance high nit level content. There are hardware and windows software options to help us get the max performance and image quality out of our content and projectors. Luckily there are lots of forums discussions on these topics.

I too tried calibrating with hcfr and calman with the same meter, and I too walked away with a mess... Most people seem to use a SDR calibration as a base and adjust for p3 or 2020. For discs I've had the best luck with ripping and using MadVR tone mapping on my pc, and for streaming adding a Vertex has happily opened some locked doors as I usually prefer LLDV tone mapping from apps.

Like I said, it's a rabbit hole and depends how critical you want to be with your content. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

MMoser said:


> Fair warning! HDR with a pj is a rabbit hole, both delightful and frustrating.
> 
> We thankfully have the option of adjusting the hdr slider as there is still no universal standard for what studios master hdr peak brightness/nits to. (Which gave rise to tone mapping displays and mastering titles with dynamic metadata such as Dolby Vision and HDR10+.)
> 
> Our projectors don't have the capability to perform well with high nit content like a TV would, so we have a hdr slider to help compensate for the different contents nit level. Some movies can be on the high side being mastered at 4000 nits, others could be as low as 400 nits. The HDR spec officially allows up to a searing peak of 10,000 nits! Rec709 is mastered to a peak of 100 nits.
> 
> Because of the different mastering levels, many projector users implement some form of tone mapping to help balance high nit level content. There are hardware and windows software options to help us get the max performance and image quality out of our content and projectors. Luckily there are lots of forums discussions on these topics.
> 
> I too tried calibrating with hcfr and calman with the same meter, and I too walked away with a mess... Most people seem to use a SDR calibration as a base and adjust for p3 or 2020. For discs I've had the best luck with ripping and using MadVR tone mapping on my pc, and for streaming adding a Vertex has happily opened some locked doors as I usually prefer LLDV tone mapping from apps.
> 
> Like I said, it's a rabbit hole and depends how critical you want to be with your content.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Could not agree more. I actually would like if the projector would allow an option to force SDR and avoid the HDR complications. Since the brightness on projectors aren't as strong, it makes the issue worse as you mentioned and it really is a poor user experience switching between sources and content. 

If anyone has ideas on how to force SDR I would like to know. I actually miss having a 4K->1080p adapter I used previously with my old projector that forced SDR as well making all content at least consistent.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MMoser

jaredmwright said:


> Could not agree more. I actually would like if the projector would allow an option to force SDR and avoid the HDR complications. Since the brightness on projectors aren't as strong, it makes the issue worse as you mentioned and it really is a poor user experience switching between sources and content.
> 
> If anyone has ideas on how to force SDR I would like to know. I actually miss having a 4K->1080p adapter I used previously with my old projector that forced SDR as well making all content at least consistent.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Or better yet, give us dynamic tone mapping similar to what some JVC models just got. I still prefer HDR over SDR, it's worth it when it's right.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## johnsonrd

Just installed my 5050UB in place of my 5040UB last night and had problems with my Roku Ultra and my DirecTV Genie (4k) would not show video (audio was fine). Despite having what I thought was compatible HDMI 2.x certified cable with ARC support and 18 Gbps rating, etc., etc., it clearly is the problem. 

Is there any reason why running an 8k rated cable wouldn't work? I didn't find one mention of anyone running an 8k capable cable that appears to have more than enough bandwidth. Just throwing it out there. I would post the link to the cable on Amazon but I don't have enough posts yet.


----------



## skylarlove1999

johnsonrd said:


> Just installed my 5050UB in place of my 5040UB last night and had problems with my Roku Ultra and my DirecTV Genie (4k) would not show video (audio was fine). Despite having what I thought was compatible HDMI 2.x certified cable with ARC support and 18 Gbps rating, etc., etc., it clearly is the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any reason why running an 8k rated cable wouldn't work? I didn't find one mention of anyone running an 8k capable cable that appears to have more than enough bandwidth. Just throwing it out there. I would post the link to the cable on Amazon but I don't have enough posts yet.


Some cables just don't work with certain gear. Other cables just aren't tested before arriving at you home. Others just print boldfaced lies. 

This one has worked for the majority of 5050 owners.

https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-4K60H...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dloiphone

johnsonrd said:


> Just installed my 5050UB in place of my 5040UB last night and had problems with my Roku Ultra and my DirecTV Genie (4k) would not show video (audio was fine). Despite having what I thought was compatible HDMI 2.x certified cable with ARC support and 18 Gbps rating, etc., etc., it clearly is the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any reason why running an 8k rated cable wouldn't work? I didn't find one mention of anyone running an 8k capable cable that appears to have more than enough bandwidth. Just throwing it out there. I would post the link to the cable on Amazon but I don't have enough posts yet.




On the 5050, do you have set it to extended? Or is that only on the 6050? I had this issue, thought it was my 35ft monoprice cable and change this setting and everything has been working like it should. 

Signal>advanced>edid>expanded


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

dloiphone said:


> On the 5050, do you have set it to extended? Or is that only on the 6050? I had this issue, thought it was my 35ft monoprice cable and change this setting and everything has been working like it should.
> 
> Signal>advanced>edid>expanded
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is on both the 5050 and the 6050. Could be an issue. Could still be the cable. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## johnsonrd

dloiphone said:


> On the 5050, do you have set it to extended? Or is that only on the 6050? I had this issue, thought it was my 35ft monoprice cable and change this setting and everything has been working like it should.
> 
> Signal>advanced>edid>expanded
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm about to find out. Just got home and all my 8k cables were delivered. I left all the settings at auto...assuming that would be ideal  Eitehr way I'm going to swap the cables but I am curious at this point if the setting would have resolved it. Thanks


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## robl2

You have to set it to expanded for HDR to work (correctly) from what I've heard. I've always had mine set to expanded.


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## johnsonrd

robl2 said:


> You have to set it to expanded for HDR to work (correctly) from what I've heard. I've always had mine set to expanded.


Turns out mine was set to expanded so it was the cable. I had to reset the devices to get the new cable capabilities to take but I can confirm that the 16' 8k cable works great.


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## skylarlove1999

johnsonrd said:


> Turns out mine was set to expanded so it was the cable. I had to reset the devices to get the new cable capabilities to take but I can confirm that the 16' 8k cable works great.


Good to hear you solved the issue. Now if you could just get Roku not to drop the Fox Sports app that would be fantastic. Please and thank you.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Musty Hustla

Where are firmware updates for the 5050ub posted?


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## dr bill

Musty Hustla said:


> Where are firmware updates for the 5050ub posted?


I don't believe there are any firmware updates yet.


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## --Sclaws

Musty Hustla said:


> Where are firmware updates for the 5050ub posted?


1.01 
https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
Only reason I had the link is mine shipped with 1.0


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## cky2354

Are the JVCs that much more superior to the Epson 5050ub? I'm particularly talking about the RS-540 or the NX5 which cost more. I guess if you were going to spend $3k for this, are the JVCs that much better for only little bit more cost? Seems like most projector experts and dealers are saying that they would rather get the JVC because it is so much better than the Epson like comparing Hyundai to a Lexus or something like that. How do most of you Epson owners feel about that? If you can get it for the same price, would you have rather gone with JVC? Trying to figure out if it was more of financial decision rather than performance. I'm sure there are others that are considering these options as well.


----------



## skylarlove1999

cky2354 said:


> Are the JVCs that much more superior to the Epson 5050ub? I'm particularly talking about the RS-540 or the NX5 which cost more. I guess if you were going to spend $3k for this, are the JVCs that much better for only little bit more cost? Seems like most projector experts and dealers are saying that they would rather get the JVC because it is so much better than the Epson like comparing Hyundai to a Lexus or something like that. How do most of you Epson owners feel about that? If you can get it for the same price, would you have rather gone with JVC? Trying to figure out if it was more of financial decision rather than performance. I'm sure there are others that are considering these options as well.


I wouldn't have gone with the JVC until they gave the free dynamic tone mapping firmware update in October. I own the 6050. I watch about 40% HDR content. The dynamic tone mapping is superior to the Epson HDR mapping. The extra lumens of the 6050/5050 is beneficial in a non-light controlled environment with brighter room colors. In a dark environment the JVC true 4k projectors would be my choice. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Musty Hustla

dr bill said:


> I don't believe there are any firmware updates yet.




Thanks. I saw some comments about firmware in the 5040 thread, and it made me curious. 

It’s too bad the projector doesn’t update over network. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Musty Hustla

--Sclaws said:


> 1.01
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
> 
> Only reason I had the link is mine shipped with 1.0




Much appreciated, I’ll bookmark. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jch2

cky2354 said:


> Are the JVCs that much more superior to the Epson 5050ub? I'm particularly talking about the RS-540 or the NX5 which cost more. I guess if you were going to spend $3k for this, are the JVCs that much better for only little bit more cost? Seems like most projector experts and dealers are saying that they would rather get the JVC because it is so much better than the Epson like comparing Hyundai to a Lexus or something like that. How do most of you Epson owners feel about that? If you can get it for the same price, would you have rather gone with JVC? Trying to figure out if it was more of financial decision rather than performance. I'm sure there are others that are considering these options as well.


I didn't go with the JVC, and never would have. I like the extra light output, brighter is better. Each of my projector upgrades over the years has improved everything, but one of the most significant improvements each time was brightness.

I can't see the differences (if they exist) from my viewing distance (10' from a 120" 16:9 screen).

The JVC doesn't have enough lens shift for my needs (the center of the lens is 15' back from and 19" *above* the top of my screen).

The JVC is just too expensive. I got the 6050 new for only slightly more than the 5050. There was no benefit for spending twice as much. Even at the best pricing I could find, the JVC was still 33% more expensive.


----------



## Ladeback

cky2354 said:


> Are the JVCs that much more superior to the Epson 5050ub? I'm particularly talking about the RS-540 or the NX5 which cost more. I guess if you were going to spend $3k for this, are the JVCs that much better for only little bit more cost? Seems like most projector experts and dealers are saying that they would rather get the JVC because it is so much better than the Epson like comparing Hyundai to a Lexus or something like that. How do most of you Epson owners feel about that? If you can get it for the same price, would you have rather gone with JVC? Trying to figure out if it was more of financial decision rather than performance. I'm sure there are others that are considering these options as well.


In my opinion both are good, but if you are going with a large scope screen say over 150" I would lean more towards the Epson, because it is brighter. If less then 150" the NX5 or NX7 should be good. Now if I had the money I would get the JVC DLA-RE4500k. That thing seems to be bright and have the ultra blacks.


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## joel dickman

*Epson or JVC?*



cky2354 said:


> Are the JVCs that much more superior to the Epson 5050ub? I'm particularly talking about the RS-540 or the NX5 which cost more. I guess if you were going to spend $3k for this, are the JVCs that much better for only little bit more cost? Seems like most projector experts and dealers are saying that they would rather get the JVC because it is so much better than the Epson like comparing Hyundai to a Lexus or something like that. How do most of you Epson owners feel about that? If you can get it for the same price, would you have rather gone with JVC? Trying to figure out if it was more of financial decision rather than performance. I'm sure there are others that are considering these options as well.


1) The Epson will be brighter. The JVC will have better contrast. If you are a bat cave movie watcher, you may prefer the picture of the JVC. If you watch movies, sporting events, and play games in an environment with some ambient light, you may be happier with the Epson. Screen size and gain matter too.

2) In comparing prices, also consider operating cost over time. If you put big hours on your projector, using it like a television or a computer monitor, you will need deep pockets to keep the JVC in fresh lamps. Epson lamps are much less expensive. If you only use your projector a few hours per week, lamp costs may not matter to you.

3) Both the JVC and Epson are excellent choices. Which is best for you mostly depends on your personal watching habits and the size of your bank balance.

Happy viewing,
Joel Dickman


----------



## arjunrk67

Thank You @recbones soo much for answering me. I would like to thank all the other user too for trying to help me but this guy has already answered my question.

Now Since I don't know much about any anamorphic lenses. Can anyone help me find any anamorphic lens which is compatible with the 5050UB or maybe some source where I can find those.

Thank You Everyone.


----------



## rekbones

arjunrk67 said:


> Thank You @recbones soo much for answering me. I would like to thank all the other user too for trying to help me but this guy has already answered my question.
> 
> Now Since I don't know much about any anamorphic lenses. Can anyone help me find any anamorphic lens which is compatible with the 5050UB or maybe some source where I can find those.
> 
> Thank You Everyone.


Unfortunately Epson in their infinite wisdom decided to exclude the vertical stretch mode required to use an "A" lens and only offering it in the 6050ub model. You will need to stretch the source external to the projector with the likes of an Oppo or HTPC to be able to use an A lens with the 5050. I personally know very little about what A lens to buy as they are priced way out of my income bracket as the high end ones cost more then your projector. Also a power sled to move the lens from in-front of the projector to view 16:9 content are also highly recommended.


----------



## WynsWrld98

cky2354 said:


> Are the JVCs that much more superior to the Epson 5050ub? I'm particularly talking about the RS-540 or the NX5 which cost more. I guess if you were going to spend $3k for this, are the JVCs that much better for only little bit more cost? Seems like most projector experts and dealers are saying that they would rather get the JVC because it is so much better than the Epson like comparing Hyundai to a Lexus or something like that. How do most of you Epson owners feel about that? If you can get it for the same price, would you have rather gone with JVC? Trying to figure out if it was more of financial decision rather than performance. I'm sure there are others that are considering these options as well.


Lumens lumens lumens! You need the Epson lumens for HDR and 3D unless you have a small screen IMO. Keep in mind lamps dim as they age too. And the lamp replacement cost of the JVCs are very expensive. IMO Epson wins for bang for the buck by a long shot!


----------



## Dilema

I compared my TW9400 (6050ub) to JVC and had enough time adjust both to best of my liking and for me even equally priced I would choose Epson (I was shopping to get JVC 790r and ended up with Epson). Basically it is brighter what is beneficial even in my HT room. Colours pop more picture is pleasant to watch and you can go really big. My is 155 inch screen plus the decent sound you can get for the saved $$$ makes movie experiance great. 
Another reason for Epson is gaming. Low input lag and great colours even if some ambient light is present. You do not notice any contrast loss on gaming picture. 
And I am doing 1000 hours a year as using projector as monitor often. Cost of original Epson lamp is $120 (tax included) where I live. JVC I 3 times more. Ok some say you can get alternative lamp cheaper. Yes I have triad that. It was crap dim from start and dinned totally after just few hours. So no thank you. Since then I only buy original lamps. 

Ideal projector would be JVC 790r with Epson brightness and price 😉


----------



## cky2354

Well, I feel much better now that some of you are saying you still prefer the Epson. I got it last night and have been happy so far. I thought I was going to be blown away by the black level and contrast but I wasn't. Of course it was much better than the dlp projector I had (Optoma UHL55) when I did a side by side comparison, it was no match as far as that was concerned though. One thing for sure though, the colors and the brightness made everything pop so much more on the Epson like almost OLED/QLED which I loved. 

Only question is, I wonder if someone did a side by side with the JVC, would the black level and contrast be that much better on the JVC... like comparing the Epson to the Optoma? Or is there not big enough difference between the two? That's what I want to know. I do value black level and contrast since I'm coming from a 65" OLED TV but at the same time, I love to pop and colors jumping out at you as well. I'm sure to get both, you would have to get the top of the line JVC which I cannot afford. Hopefully I made a right choice in going with the Epson.


----------



## biglen

cky2354 said:


> Well, I feel much better now that some of you are saying you still prefer the Epson. I got it last night and have been happy so far. I thought I was going to be blown away by the black level and contrast but I wasn't. Of course it was much better than the dlp projector I had (Optoma UHL55) when I did a side by side comparison, it was no match as far as that was concerned though. One thing for sure though, the colors and the brightness made everything pop so much more on the Epson like almost OLED/QLED which I loved.
> 
> 
> 
> Only question is, I wonder if someone did a side by side with the JVC, would the black level and contrast be that much better on the JVC... like comparing the Epson to the Optoma? Or is there not big enough difference between the two? That's what I want to know. I do value black level and contrast since I'm coming from a 65" OLED TV but at the same time, I love to pop and colors jumping out at you as well. I'm sure to get both, you would have to get the top of the line JVC which I cannot afford. Hopefully I made a right choice in going with the Epson.


I'm totally blown away by the black levels and contrast from my 5050. Do you have full light control in the room? The slightest amount of light is going to affect your contrast and black levels. My room is 100% light free, and the surrounding walls and ceiling are done in black velvet, around my screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## cky2354

biglen said:


> I'm totally blown away by the black levels and contrast from my 5050. Do you have full light control in the room? The slightest amount of light is going to affect your contrast and black levels. My room is 100% light free, and the surrounding walls and ceiling are done in black velvet, around my screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Not yet... I'm in the process of building a dedicated home theater room in the basement with zero windows. I'll make sure that everything will be dark and non-reflective. I'm sure it will look amazing in that environment. I was only able to demo my Epson in one of my bedrooms with white wall in the dark with white ceilings so I'm sure that probably impacted the contrast and black level but only thing I really wanted to do was compare it to the Optoma and see how much better it was against a DLP projector and it truly is. I have seen side by side youtube videos that makes them close but in my eyes, there is no comparison. I think I am finally satisfied with the picture quality after going through 5 projectors... 4 of them being DLP and obviously cheaper. Epson is worth the premium price for me.


----------



## biglen

cky2354 said:


> Not yet... I'm in the process of building a dedicated home theater room in the basement with zero windows. I'll make sure that everything will be dark and non-reflective. I'm sure it will look amazing in that environment. I was only able to demo my Epson in one of my bedrooms with white wall in the dark with white ceilings so I'm sure that probably impacted the contrast and black level but only thing I really wanted to do was compare it to the Optoma and see how much better it was against a DLP projector and it truly is. I have seen side by side youtube videos that makes them close but in my eyes, there is no comparison. I think I am finally satisfied with the picture quality after going through 5 projectors... 4 of them being DLP and obviously cheaper. Epson is worth the premium price for me.


Here's a few screenshots from my 5050.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## AVTimme

As far as black levels and overall picture quality, do you thank its worth to pat for the 6050 Over the 5050?


----------



## AVTimme

biglen said:


> cky2354 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not yet... I'm in the process of building a dedicated home theater room in the basement with zero windows. I'll make sure that everything will be dark and non-reflective. I'm sure it will look amazing in that environment. I was only able to demo my Epson in one of my bedrooms with white wall in the dark with white ceilings so I'm sure that probably impacted the contrast and black level but only thing I really wanted to do was compare it to the Optoma and see how much better it was against a DLP projector and it truly is. I have seen side by side youtube videos that makes them close but in my eyes, there is no comparison. I think I am finally satisfied with the picture quality after going through 5 projectors... 4 of them being DLP and obviously cheaper. Epson is worth the premium price for me.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a few screenshots from my 5050.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Wow O_O Amazing picture quality. I thought it Was ads when I scrolled my phone because the pics were so good


----------



## jch2

AVTimme said:


> As far as black levels and overall picture quality, do you thank its worth to pat for the 6050 Over the 5050?


If you can get the 6050UB for a price just a bit higher than the 5050UB, like I did, then yes, it is worth it. There are very slight picture quality improvements (slightly better contrast, better reds and blues), the case is black, it supports anamorphic stretch, comes with a spare bulb, the best ceiling mount available (Chief CHF4500), and an extra year of warranty. So, just for the PQ improvements, not probably worth it. For that plus the other stuff, it is worth a small premium over the 5050UB.


----------



## AVTimme

jch2 said:


> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> As far as black levels and overall picture quality, do you thank its worth to pat for the 6050 Over the 5050?
> 
> 
> 
> If you can get the 6050UB for a price just a bit higher than the 5050UB, like I did, then yes, it is worth it. There are very slight picture quality improvements (slightly better contrast, better reds and blues), the case is black, it supports anamorphic stretch, comes with a spare bulb, the best ceiling mount available (Chief CHF4500), and an extra year of warranty. So, just for the PQ improvements, not probably worth it. For that plus the other stuff, it is worth a small premium over the 5050UB.
Click to expand...

In Sweden we have the TW7400 and TW9400 instead and there are no ceiling mount and extra bulb with the TW9400

Ok, so the slight pq is not worth it
The price difference is about 750 dollars here


----------



## Luminated67

AVTimme said:


> In Sweden we have the TW7400 and TW9400 instead and there are no ceiling mount and extra bulb with the TW9400
> 
> Ok, so the slight pq is not worth it
> The price difference is about 750 dollars here


The TW7400 is the equivalent to the US 4010, so not really like for like. If I remember correctly the 5050ub is the similar as the TW8400.

You really need a proper bat cave to experience the difference in blacks between the 7400 and 9400.


----------



## AVTimme

I got it wrong, the 5050ub is our TW9400
We don’t have a 6050 here

Our TW7400 would be a 4050?


----------



## AVTimme

Luminated67 said:


> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> In Sweden we have the TW7400 and TW9400 instead and there are no ceiling mount and extra bulb with the TW9400
> 
> Ok, so the slight pq is not worth it
> The price difference is about 750 dollars here
> 
> 
> 
> The TW7400 is the equivalent to the US 4010, so not really like for like. If I remember correctly the 5050ub is the similar as the TW8400.
> 
> You really need a proper bat cave to experience the difference in blacks between the 7400 and 9400.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Than I’ll go for the 7400 then
I have white walls and white ceiling so no batcave here


----------



## AVTimme

These guys seems to think there is a quite big difference between the 4010 and 9400 in black levels

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-HC5050UB-v-Epson-HC4010.htm

Is there any photos of two screens comparing the two?


----------



## Rob Greer

I have a 6050. Whenever I change to a different source or navigate from an Apple TV Netflix or Amazon app movie back to the Apple TV menu, the screen goes black for as long as 10 seconds before it’s picked up again. Similar blackouts occur when I switch to other sources like my Panasonic 9000 Blu-ray player. 

This seems like an unusually long period of time for a handshake. In the past, it took about five seconds. That seemed like a long time too. But I’ve switched up lots of equipment recently and I’m not sure as to where the problem originates. 

What can I do to correct or troubleshoot this issue? Is this a cable issue? I’ve been moving my optical HDMI around quite a bit as I moved my equipment in a new rack. Maybe I damaged it and perhaps caused this issue to appear? How long should a handshake usually take? 

I have no problem buying expensive HDMI cables if that saves me troubleshooting headaches. Right now I’m running these connects between the devices and the receiver:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=39477

And this is my fiber connection from the receiver to the projector.

https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-...+Active+Fiber+30'&qid=1580603614&sr=8-1-fkmr1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Rob Greer

Just an update to my post above. I connected the long run HDMI (optical) to the Apple TV and it worked great. No handshake. No delay. Now it’s either the receiver or the short run monoprice HDMI’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Dilema

AVTimme said:


> I got it wrong, the 5050ub is our TW9400
> We don’t have a 6050 here
> 
> Our TW7400 would be a 4050?


TW9400 is equivalent of 6050ub

In Europe we do not have equivalent of 5050ub. In Australia there is TW8400 for that which in Europe is unavailable.


----------



## DaGamePimp

AVTimme said:


> These guys seems to think there is a quite big difference between the 4010 and 9400 in black levels
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-HC5050UB-v-Epson-HC4010.htm
> 
> Is there any photos of two screens comparing the two?


I have owned both (back to back) and it is a significant difference.

- Jason


----------



## noob00224

AVTimme said:


> I got it wrong, the 5050ub is our TW9400
> We don’t have a 6050 here
> 
> Our TW7400 would be a 4050?


The HC4050 is to the HC4010 as the 6050UB is to the 5050UB: extra lamp, black casing, mount, warranty, etc.
It's not available outside north america.


----------



## Luminated67

AVTimme said:


> I got it wrong, the 5050ub is our TW9400
> We don’t have a 6050 here
> 
> Our TW7400 would be a 4050?


Still wrong, the 5050ub is the same as the TW8400, the 6050ub and TW9400 are the same but Epson USA add the extra mount, bulb to justify the price. Both the 6050ub and TW9400 share identical specs and if you were lucky like some of us early buyers in the UK you actually got a 5yr warranty added in for free.


----------



## AVTimme

Luminated67 said:


> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got it wrong, the 5050ub is our TW9400
> We donâ€™️t have a 6050 here
> 
> Our TW7400 would be a 4050?
> 
> 
> 
> Still wrong, the 5050ub is the same as the TW8400, the 6050ub and TW9400 are the same but Epson USA add the extra mount, bulb to justify the price. Both the 6050ub and TW9400 share identical specs and if you were lucky like some of us early buyers in the UK you actually got a 5yr warranty added in for free.
Click to expand...

Ah I see! In Sweden we dont have the 8400, only 7400 and 9400


----------



## jch2

Rob Greer said:


> I have a 6050. Whenever I change to a different source or navigate from an Apple TV Netflix or Amazon app movie back to the Apple TV menu, the screen goes black for as long as 10 seconds before it is picked up again. Similar blackouts occur when I switch to other sources like my Panasonic 9000 Blu-ray player.
> 
> This seems like an unusually long period of time for a handshake. In the past, it took about five seconds. That seemed like a long time too. But I've switched up lots of equipment recently and I'm not sure as to where the problem originates.


I use a 40' Blue Jeans Cable Series 3A active HDMI cable from AVR to projector.

I have had two 5050UBs and now a 6050UB.

I have tried with a Yamaha RX-A3040, RX-A3070, and now a Marantz AV8805.

The HDMI handshake on input change or when a device changes refresh rate or color space takes about 5 seconds with my LG C8 TV, and 10+ seconds for the Epson projectors (all three worked the same). I don't know if the active cable is causing the extra delay or if the Epson is just slow to handshake. I've never seen the Epson switch any faster than 10+ seconds.

If you find something that makes it faster, please let us know.


----------



## cubsfan

jch2 said:


> I use a 40' Blue Jeans Cable Series 3A active HDMI cable from AVR to projector.
> 
> I have had two 5050UBs and now a 6050UB.
> 
> I have tried with a Yamaha RX-A3040, RX-A3070, and now a Marantz AV8805.
> 
> The HDMI handshake on input change or when a device changes refresh rate or color space takes about 5 seconds with my LG C8 TV, and 10+ seconds for the Epson projectors (all three worked the same). I don't know if the active cable is causing the extra delay or if the Epson is just slow to handshake. I've never seen the Epson switch any faster than 10+ seconds.
> 
> If you find something that makes it faster, please let us know.





I have a Yamaha rx2080 and run a fiber optic cable , and have about the same handshake times. 

Sony tv is much faster.
Must be the Epson.


----------



## Luminated67

AVTimme said:


> Ah I see! In Sweden we dont have the 8400, only 7400 and 9400


In the UK it’s the same but I did know about the TW8400 in Australia and surrounding area. I suppose each market decides what models to stock.


----------



## fredworld

cubsfan said:


> I have a Yamaha rx2080 and run a fiber optic cable , and have about the same handshake times.
> 
> Sony tv is much faster.
> Must be the Epson.



Ditto. See my signature for equipment chain and cabling.


----------



## AVTimme

DaGamePimp said:


> I have owned both (back to back) and it is a significant difference.
> 
> - Jason


Great! Thanks! The TW9400 is clearly the projector for me


----------



## AVTimme

Luminated67 said:


> In the UK it’s the same but I did know about the TW8400 in Australia and surrounding area. I suppose each market decides what models to stock.


yea but still its rather weird that they have different names for different models? Why can't they call them all 6050UB instead of TW9400? Or vice versa?


----------



## spiroh

What are the chances Epson will implement auto tone mapping for HDR content on this projector via firmware update? I feel like my HDR slider is usually at 1 to maybe 4. Anything higher and it is really dark.


----------



## skylarlove1999

spiroh said:


> What are the chances Epson will implement auto tone mapping for HDR content on this projector via firmware update? I feel like my HDR slider is usually at 1 to maybe 4. Anything higher and it is really dark.


Do you mean Dynamic still nothing I assume because the Epson already has Auto tone mapping which is what you're using when you use the slider. And no I highly doubt that's going to happen

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## AVTimme

skylarlove1999 said:


> spiroh said:
> 
> 
> 
> What are the chances Epson will implement auto tone mapping for HDR content on this projector via firmware update? I feel like my HDR slider is usually at 1 to maybe 4. Anything higher and it is really dark.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you mean Dynamic still nothing I assume because the Epson already has Auto tone mapping which is what you're using when you use the slider. And no I highly doubt that's going to happen
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

How can it be auto when you manually slide the slider?


----------



## carmona

I am feeding a 4k hdr blu ray signal from my oppo 203 into the epson 6050. However the resultant picture seems to be a bit lackluster and even less bright and popping then the average Blu-ray. Is there a setting or settings on the projector that I can adjust or change in order to improve this and enable the best projection of the 4K HDR signal? Thanks for any help regarding this.


----------



## reechings

Sorry to jump in but I'm looking at getting the 5050 or 6050 later this year and my media room is partially opened up right now. What is the best HDMI cable to run while everything is open and hopefully save me running anything else anytime soon? Also is it worth bothering with ceiling mounted Atmos speakers? Thanks!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Sorry to jump in but I'm looking at getting the 5050 or 6050 later this year and my media room is partially opened up right now. What is the best HDMI cable to run while everything is open and hopefully save me running anything else anytime soon? Also is it worth bothering with ceiling mounted Atmos speakers? Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-4K60H...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

And hell yeah to the Atmos speakers. The more the merrier.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

AVTimme said:


> How can it be auto when you manually slide the slider?


The slider just allows for you to manually adjust the brightness of HDR content you are viewing but the projector is still setting the tone mapping for the whole rest of the movie every time you slide. The JVC dynamic tone mapping adjusts the dynamic range of HDR content via their proprietary algorithm during the whole movie . You can choose either frame by frame or scene by scene for the dynamic tone mapping. You don't need to make adjustments because the projector is making adjustments during the entire course of the film. This article explains things much better than I can.

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/hands-jvc-s-dynamic-tone-mapping-update

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-4K60H...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
> 
> And hell yeah to the Atmos speakers. The more the merrier.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


So ruipro is the one to go with compared to some of the other fiber optic ones on Amazon?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00V7NNVJG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_GI3nEb7RAFSGH

Found this one too but I guess they are probably a dime a dozen on Amazon.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> So ruipro is the one to go with compared to some of the other fiber optic ones on Amazon?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Ruipro has had the most success with Epson 5050 in this forum. Very small sample size. Ruipro has very favorable reviews on the HDMI cable thread here on AVS FORUM. Very favorable reviews on Amazon as well. Many people have had success with Blue Jeans cables as well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

skylarlove1999 said:


> Ruipro has had the most success with Epson 5050 in this forum. Very small sample size. Ruipro has very favorable reviews on the HDMI cable thread here on AVS FORUM. Very favorable reviews on Amazon as well. Many people have had success with Blue Jeans cables as well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




I tried a couple.. first a Mavislink cable that seemed to work well, but got glitches over the next few days. Then I went with the ruipro and it’s perfect so far. More expensive, but more reliable.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

reechings said:


> Sorry to jump in but I'm looking at getting the 5050 or 6050 later this year and my media room is partially opened up right now. What is the best HDMI cable to run while everything is open and hopefully save me running anything else anytime soon? Also is it worth bothering with ceiling mounted Atmos speakers? Thanks!
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


The only safe bet is to run conduit so the cable can easily be changed. And yes too ATMOS an absolute must if you have a "dedicated" room.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rekbones said:


> The only safe bet is to run conduit so the cable can easily be changed. And yes too ATMOS an absolute must if you have a "dedicated" room.


Yes running conduit is essential 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## AVTimme

skylarlove1999 said:


> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> How can it be auto when you manually slide the slider?
> 
> 
> 
> The slider just allows for you to manually adjust the brightness of HDR content you are viewing but the projector is still setting the tone mapping for the whole rest of the movie every time you slide. The JVC dynamic tone mapping adjusts the dynamic range of HDR content via their proprietary algorithm during the whole movie . You can choose either frame by frame or scene by scene for the dynamic tone mapping. You don't need to make adjustments because the projector is making adjustments during the entire course of the film. This article explains things much better than I can.
> 
> https://www.soundandvision.com/content/hands-jvc-s-dynamic-tone-mapping-update
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ok so the Epson does tone map everything? Is it similar to the JVCs tone map?

I’ll read the link! And I’ll see what I can find on the Epson’s tone map


----------



## Luminated67

AVTimme said:


> Ok so the Epson does tone map everything? Is it similar to the JVCs tone map?
> 
> I’ll read the link! And I’ll see what I can find on the Epson’s tone map


The JVC offers Dynamic Tonal Mapping which you can set to either scene by scene or frame by frame, this is beyond what Epson currently offer but stops short of quality of processing that Lumagen and MadVR offer.

I'm not saying that it isn't better but I see it more as another feather in the JVC cap over the rest, think of it as a more set and forget setup than having to adjust per film you watch each time as is with the Epson. So far I have only watched one movie that I have had to readjust the HDR slider mid film, the rest mostly sit between position 2-4 but I am using a Panasonic BluRay player which has an HDR optimiser built in.


----------



## AVTimme

Luminated67 said:


> The JVC offers Dynamic Tonal Mapping which you can set to either scene by scene or frame by frame, this is beyond what Epson currently offer but stops short of quality of processing that Lumagen and MadVR offer.
> 
> I'm not saying that it isn't better but I see it more as another feather in the JVC cap over the rest, think of it as a more set and forget setup than having to adjust per film you watch each time as is with the Epson. So far I have only watched one movie that I have had to readjust the HDR slider mid film, the rest mostly sit between position 2-4 but I am using a Panasonic BluRay player which has an HDR optimiser built in.


ok so about 3 will be a happy medium?


----------



## skylarlove1999

AVTimme said:


> ok so about 3 will be a happy medium?


All depends on your source and the original brightness in which it was mastered. Streaming from Netflix and Prime are usually a 3 for me. Also depends on your room conditions such as dark or velvet walls,ceiling and floor . Turning the slider up too much turns your blacks into gray and destroys specular highlights in things such as lights and sunrises. Slider set lower lessens the wow factor of bright images in a darker scene, like fire and explosions at night. The dynamic tone mapping adjusts during each frame so you don't have to make adjustments yourself. The Panasonic players do have the optimizer but it is still a static, meaning mapping the movie based upon the metadata, solution that sets the tone mapping for the entire movie upon reading that initial data set. It certainly helps but not as good as the JVC dynamic tone mapping. With the Panasonic player I get a better result than with just the projector. I can typically use 5 or 6 in conjunction with the Panasonic UHD player and I get much more shadow detail, deeper blacks and more detailed specular highlights than streaming, although UHD movies on VUDU are close to disc. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## AVTimme

skylarlove1999 said:


> All depends on your source and the original brightness in which it was mastered. Streaming from Netflix and Prime are usually a 3 for me. Also depends on your room conditions such as dark or velvet walls,ceiling and floor . Turning the slider up too much turns your blacks into gray and destroys specular highlights in things such as lights and sunrises. Slider set lower lessens the wow factor of bright images in a darker scene, like fire and explosions at night. The dynamic tone mapping adjusts during each frame so you don't have to make adjustments yourself. The Panasonic players do have the optimizer but it is still a static, meaning mapping the movie based upon the metadata, solution that sets the tone mapping for the entire movie upon reading that initial data set. It certainly helps but not as good as the JVC dynamic tone mapping. With the Panasonic player I get a better result than with just the projector. I can typically use 5 or 6 in conjunction with the Panasonic UHD player and I get much more shadow detail, deeper blacks and more detailed specular highlights than streaming, although UHD movies on VUDU are close to disc.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Thanks! Can you stream from the Panasonic and use its HDR tone mapping on Netflix? 
It would be nice if the Epsons had the dynamic tone mapping the JVCs have :/ 

What do you think about the TW9400 in SDR vs HDR? Is the overall wow factor better with HDR from Netflix or should I choose SDR instead?


----------



## Dilema

I have just discovered Madvr Hdr to Sdr DTM. This is best setup for 6050. You can squeeze out inky blacks great contrast and incredible highlights from it. You need to use beta version. You can’t get such results via “normal” hdr signal at all. This software makes miracles. But you need powerful GPU. I can’t use all best settings with RTX2080oc as card is boiling at 95% average usage.


----------



## layadhaya

Greg121986 said:


> Correct, I am not concerned with the available lens shift. I may mount the projector at the center of the screen, but I may also mount it up higher to get it out of the way of people walking by. I will experiment first before deciding on a permanent solution.
> 
> My concern is the actual cone of light that the projector will shoot out. I have attached some pics from the screen's perspective, and from the projector perspective. The wall in question is highlighted in green.
> 
> I think it should be OK. This is all a rough estimate, but judging by the screenshot from the projector perspective, I can still see the entire screen without the wall being in the way, so I would assume that the wall won't interfere.


Hi,
Did you get a response to your post or were you able find the beam angle for EPSON 5050UB? I have the same question as you do. Wuold you be kind enough to post what you found? In my case I purchased the Epson 5050UB projector. I'm planning on hanging this projector from the ceiling behind a dry wall? The other side of the drywall is my home theater. So the projector is outside the theater room. The dry wall is about 6 inches deep (cos there's a dry wall inside the theater room, followed by a stud and a dry wall outside). I'm planning on making a hole on the dry wall (both on inside wall and the outside wall) and want to know how far behind can I place my projector so the light beam from the 5050UB projector doesn't hit the sides of the dry wall before it hits the projector screen that is about 19 feet away inside the home theater. I'm also planning on purchasing an opticlear non-reflective glass specifically made for home projectors to place it on the drywall on the inside of the home theater. So, there's no projector noise coming inside the theater at all. Before purchasing this glass I want to know the size of I need to cut on the drywall that's based on the beam angle.

Here are my specs: 
EPSON 5050 UB.
I have 2 projector screens (16:9 and 2.35:1). Both are about 19.5 feet to 20 feet from the projector that's outside the home theater.
16:9 projector screen size: 142" diagonal (124 W x 70 H)
2.35:1 projector screen size: 128" diagonal (118 W x 50 H)
I can easily place the projector lens at the center of both the screens (with maybe very minimal lens shift adjustments as needed)
Note: The width of the studs in my dry wall is 16 inches. So the maximum width I have on the drywall to cut is about 14.5 inches (Considering that the 6" depth hole on the drywall will be finished on the sides as well). I have a lot of flexibility on the height.

Your correct response will be truly appreciated!

Thank you


----------



## AVTimme

Dilema said:


> I have just discovered Madvr Hdr to Sdr DTM. This is best setup for 6050. You can squeeze out inky blacks great contrast and incredible highlights from it. You need to use beta version. You can’t get such results via “normal” hdr signal at all. This software makes miracles. But you need powerful GPU. I can’t use all best settings with RTX2080oc as card is boiling at 95% average usage.


ah its too bad I'm sitting on a laptop and not a proper computer :/ I have a MacBook Pro 2015


----------



## bitmap42

layadhaya said:


> Hi,
> Did you get a response to your post or were you able find the beam angle for EPSON 5050UB? I have the same question as you do. Wuold you be kind enough to post what you found? In my case I purchased the Epson 5050UB projector. I'm planning on hanging this projector from the ceiling behind a dry wall? The other side of the drywall is my home theater. So the projector is outside the theater room. The dry wall is about 6 inches deep (cos there's a dry wall inside the theater room, followed by a stud and a dry wall outside). I'm planning on making a hole on the dry wall (both on inside wall and the outside wall) and want to know how far behind can I place my projector so the light beam from the 5050UB projector doesn't hit the sides of the dry wall before it hits the projector screen that is about 19 feet away inside the home theater. I'm also planning on purchasing an opticlear non-reflective glass specifically made for home projectors to place it on the drywall on the inside of the home theater. So, there's no projector noise coming inside the theater at all. Before purchasing this glass I want to know the size of I need to cut on the drywall that's based on the beam angle.
> Thank you


There isn’t any magic to the beam angle. Figure out where you want to put the front of the projector then take a string/wire and extend it from the bottom right of where the lens would be to the bottom right of where you want the screen and another from the bottom left of where the lens will be to the bottom left of where you want the screen. You can make the hole a bit bigger in case you want to move the screen a bit or make it slightly bigger later. It’s not exact because the lens is a circle and the image is a rectangle, but it will get you close enough without having to have the projector and will at least give you a basic idea of how big the hole will have to be.


----------



## rekbones

layadhaya said:


> Hi,
> Did you get a response to your post or were you able find the beam angle for EPSON 5050UB? I have the same question as you do. Wuold you be kind enough to post what you found? In my case I purchased the Epson 5050UB projector. I'm planning on hanging this projector from the ceiling behind a dry wall? The other side of the drywall is my home theater. So the projector is outside the theater room. The dry wall is about 6 inches deep (cos there's a dry wall inside the theater room, followed by a stud and a dry wall outside). I'm planning on making a hole on the dry wall (both on inside wall and the outside wall) and want to know how far behind can I place my projector so the light beam from the 5050UB projector doesn't hit the sides of the dry wall before it hits the projector screen that is about 19 feet away inside the home theater. I'm also planning on purchasing an opticlear non-reflective glass specifically made for home projectors to place it on the drywall on the inside of the home theater. So, there's no projector noise coming inside the theater at all. Before purchasing this glass I want to know the size of I need to cut on the drywall that's based on the beam angle.
> 
> Here are my specs:
> EPSON 5050 UB.
> I have 2 projector screens (16:9 and 2.35:1). Both are about 19.5 feet to 20 feet from the projector that's outside the home theater.
> 16:9 projector screen size: 142" diagonal (124 W x 70 H)
> 2.35:1 projector screen size: 128" diagonal (118 W x 50 H)
> I can easily place the projector lens at the center of both the screens (with maybe very minimal lens shift adjustments as needed)
> Note: The width of the studs in my dry wall is 16 inches. So the maximum width I have on the drywall to cut is about 14.5 inches (Considering that the 6" depth hole on the drywall will be finished on the sides as well). I have a lot of flexibility on the height.
> 
> Your correct response will be truly appreciated!
> 
> Thank you


The string method won't work until after you cut the whole so not much help in determining the size of the hole. I would graft out the room to scale on graft paper. Measure all dimensions to the inch, 19.5' to 20' won't due it must be exact. Just a simple straight edge from the expected lens to the screen edge will give you a fairly good estimate of the size of the hole. Make sure you are within the zoom range of both screens, as to why you have a 2:35 screen not even as wide as your 16:9 is strange but I am not going to ask.


----------



## DarrinH

Just thought I would offer that the projector noise is nearly inaudible. My 5050 hangs freely above me about 2.5 feet back from my head.


----------



## imapfsr

Hey All,
Not sure if anyone has posted about trying this but I was so tired of the white case of my 5050UB in my almost all dark room. I also added an anti reflective screen material and that just reflects light right back at the pj and lights it up like a fog light. I went to my local fabric store and found this black almost speaker cover type cloth and tried covering up the front like a sock almost. It ended up working quite well. It's thin enough to let air flow through so no issues with the intake and output vents but it greatly reduces the light reflecting and kind of hides the pj just enough for it not to stick out. Anyways, don't want a white case any more give it a try.


----------



## fletchuavdrvr

For the masses. I am upgrading from an HC3500. It's worked great but wanting to go 4K. What is your impression with the 5050UB, and if you had one before to compare, is it that much better than a 5040UB? I found a pretty good deal on a used 5040UB (knowing the potential power issues). However, I recently saw a 5050UB at a Best Buy and given their setup I wasn't overly wow-ed, which I expected to be, but most of that was their demo room. My room is not light controlled. I'm debating between the 5040, 5050 and the HC3800. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.


----------



## skylarlove1999

fletchuavdrvr said:


> For the masses. I am upgrading from an HC3500. It's worked great but wanting to go 4K. What is your impression with the 5050UB, and if you had one before to compare, is it that much better than a 5040UB? I found a pretty good deal on a used 5040UB (knowing the potential power issues). However, I recently saw a 5050UB at a Best Buy and given their setup I wasn't overly wow-ed, which I expected to be, but most of that was their demo room. My room is not light controlled. I'm debating between the 5040, 5050 and the HC3800. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.


I had a 5040 before my current 6050. Sharper and cleaner image. Better contrast and better black levels. HDR is better and much easier to adjust for content with the HDR SLIDER. I had custom curves for my 5040 which were set up by Jeff Meier of Accucal. They were as good as to be expected with the first generation of HDR. The 5050 implementation of HDR is much improved. No custom curves are needed and the slider has 16 levels to adjust based upon the nits level in which the content was mastered. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

fletchuavdrvr said:


> For the masses. I am upgrading from an HC3500. It's worked great but wanting to go 4K. What is your impression with the 5050UB, and if you had one before to compare, is it that much better than a 5040UB? I found a pretty good deal on a used 5040UB (knowing the potential power issues). However, I recently saw a 5050UB at a Best Buy and given their setup I wasn't overly wow-ed, which I expected to be, but most of that was their demo room. My room is not light controlled. I'm debating between the 5040, 5050 and the HC3800. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.


With projector that are designs for superior levels of contrast to get the best performance out of them you need to control the amount of reflective light is in the room and if you can’t do that then an ALR screen is necessary. If your room isn’t light controlled and you don’t intend to use an ALR screen then you would be as well buying a DLP.


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## Greg121986

I never got any information about the beam angle of the 5050UB. I was able to put it in the closet as I had planned, and the wall in front has not been an issue at all.


----------



## Averhoeven

What 3D glasses do people use/recommend for the 5050? I recently upgraded and realized my IR glasses from my old Pan AE8000 aren't going to work.

Thanks


----------



## fredworld

Averhoeven said:


> What 3D glasses do people use/recommend for the 5050? I recently upgraded and realized my IR glasses from my old Pan AE8000 aren't going to work.
> 
> Thanks



I use the Ssg-5100gb.

*Read this link*. I'm sure others will have suggestions, also.


----------



## Averhoeven

fredworld said:


> Averhoeven said:
> 
> 
> 
> What 3D glasses do people use/recommend for the 5050? I recently upgraded and realized my IR glasses from my old Pan AE8000 aren't going to work.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use the Ssg-5100gb.
> 
> *Read this link*. I'm sure others will have suggestions, also.
Click to expand...

Thanks. There were plenty of options, but wanted some personal experience that meetings was happy with.


----------



## arjunrk67

Thank You Rekbones for answering my question. Actually I did post the reply to your answer few days ago but for some reason it didn't get post on the forum. Also I would like to thank all the other members who have tried to help me. 

Now I wanted to ask if there are any compatible 'A' lenses for my kind of scenario since my screen is a 16:9 curved, will a 'A' lens work. And would it be even a viable solution. By viable I mean will it affect my picture quality or any sort of stuff and what would be the cost of these kind of lens and is the cost justified??

Sorry for too many questions 😅 I'm really new to these stuff and not sure on everything I know is correct or not.


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## cky2354

Just need opinion on how good the 3D is on this Epson 5050ub. I finally got my Samsung Ssg-5100gb and got to try it out last night. I think it's decent performer but not as good as other DLP projectors I tried and also comparing to my LG 65" OLED passive 3D... it is not as good obviously. I wanted more 3D pop and used the 3D depth slider (goes from -10 to +10) and it really makes it better but at the same time have too much crosstalk and ghosting. I have to keep it at 0 or 1 to not see it. But when you do that, the 3D is not as good unfortunately. 

Can anyone share their best settings for 3D and what has worked for you? I might still have to watch all my 3D movies on my OLED for now.


----------



## gene4ht

cky2354 said:


> Just need opinion on how good the 3D is on this Epson 5050ub. I finally got my Samsung Ssg-5100gb and got to try it out last night. I think it's decent performer but not as good as other DLP projectors I tried and also comparing to my LG 65" OLED passive 3D... it is not as good obviously. I wanted more 3D pop and used the 3D depth slider (goes from -10 to +10) and it really makes it better but at the same time have too much crosstalk and ghosting. I have to keep it at 0 or 1 to not see it. But when you do that, the 3D is not as good unfortunately.
> 
> Can anyone share their best settings for 3D and what has worked for you? I might still have to watch all my 3D movies on my OLED for now.


I haven’t seen many postings of 5050 3D enthusiasts here but @inspector is an avid 3D proponent of the 5040. I would assume performance would be very similar if not even better on the 5050. He may post his comments here but you may want to PM him as well.


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## jaredmwright

gene4ht said:


> I haven’t seen many postings of 5050 3D enthusiasts here but @inspector is an avid 3D proponent of the 5040. I would assume performance would be very similar if not even better on the 5050. He may post his comments here but you may want to PM him as well.


I have the 6050ub and came from the 5030ub. I can absolutely tell you that 3D is very good, it is very bright and pops for me. I use the Epson included glasses from my original 5030ub since I bought my 6050ub refurbished without accessories.

I also use the ValueVue glasses which work great, are very light and have been reliable over 4 years of use. They are rechargable via USB which is very convenient and I prefer them over the Epson since they are lighter and more comfortable.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

jaredmwright said:


> I have the 6050ub and came from the 5030ub. I can absolutely tell you that 3D is very good, it is very bright and pops for me. I use the Epson included glasses from my original 5030ub since I bought my 6050ub refurbished without accessories.
> 
> *I also use the ValurVue glasses which work great, are very light and have been reliable over 4 years of use*. They are rechargable via USB which is very convenient and I prefer them over the Epson since they are lighter and more comfortable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I also have the ValueView glasses and am in agreement with @jaredmwright. They also fit comfortably over prescription glasses. Unfortunately, I believe these are not longer available but might appear on eBay from time to time.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/194-3d-tech-talk/2685201-active-3d-glasses-4-models-compared.html


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## Dilema

@jaredmwright

Aren’t these glasses more dark comparing to original Epson?


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## Rob Greer

*Epson 5050/6050 FAQ*

I've spent countless hours reading every post on this thread. FWIW, I've assembled a few common questions and answers here. 

I'm posting this information for readers who might stumble across this post and don't have time to read every post on the thread. I hope somebody finds this info helpful.

1.	Confirm that the Epson 5050/6050 will work in your room using the Epson Calculator at https://files.support.epson.com/pdc/eai/html5/index.html or the Projector Central Calculator at https://www.projectorcentral.com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm.

2.	The 5050/6050 is significantly better than previous Epson projectors (including the 5040). Most people who have owned other Epson projectors recommend the upgrade.

3.	Improve image quality by confirming that your projector is level and that the projector lens is parallel to your screen. Make sure your screen is horizontally level and the screen face is at a right angle to the floor. Never use the keystone setting to adjust your picture. Using the projector lens shift feature after making these screen adjustments doesn't impact image quality.

4.	If the projector doesn't display the expected resolution or color settings, ensure all devices in your signal chain (projector / streaming device / avr / blu-ray) have extended / expanded activated and that the best resolution and color spaces are activated on every device. Then see #5 .

5.	Use optical HDMI cables for runs longer than 15 feet / 5 meters. If issues persist after switching cables, try another cable. Many issues are solved with a cable upgrade.

6.	Professional calibration yields superior results over projector settings recommended by reviewers or other owners. Viewing preferences also vary. Try recommended settings but remember that rooms will likely require different settings for optimal results. 

7.	Chief projector mounts are worth the extra expense. 

8.	Other forum threads offer screen and paint selection advice. Search for those answers on those threads.


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## Rob Greer

pete ramberg said:


> I used a piece of cardboard to cover up each projector output separately, then moved the cardboard back-and-forth between them. A piece of tape held the cardboard in place while I went up to the screen to compare.



Placing items like cardboard in front of a projector lens can raise heat levels to the point where the lens and/or projector can be damaged.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## pete ramberg

Rob Greer said:


> Placing items like cardboard in front of a projector lens can raise heat levels to the point where the lens and/or projector can be damaged.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Wait. What? I was doing a comparison between 2 projectors with a piece of cardboard for about 12 seconds each time - and you think that will damage the projectors from overheating?

Okie dokie...


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## skylarlove1999

pete ramberg said:


> Wait. What? I was doing a comparison between 2 projectors with a piece of cardboard for about 12 seconds each time - and you think that will damage the projectors from overheating?
> 
> 
> 
> Okie dokie...


I don't think he understood you were only doing it for seconds at a time. You will be fine. Thanks for posting your results.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## pete ramberg

skylarlove1999 said:


> I don't think he understood you were only doing it for seconds at a time. You will be fine. Thanks for posting your results.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


After I did the comparison between the 5050 and the Sony 295ES (and it was pretty exhaustive), I was totally satisfied that Epson's e-shift technology is doing its job well. I photographed both screens and did a "blink comparison" with 2 Photoshop layers and it was remarkable how similar the two images were in terms of pure resolution.

I am an Epson fan boy, but I was trying to be totally objective. And, it wasn't a blind test, as I knew which projector I was looking at. I'm just saying that I am glad I saved the $2000 and went with the 5050.


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## Rob Greer

pete ramberg said:


> Wait. What? I was doing a comparison between 2 projectors with a piece of cardboard for about 12 seconds each time - and you think that will damage the projectors from overheating?
> 
> Okie dokie...


In your post you stated:



pete ramberg said:


> I used a piece of cardboard to cover up each projector output separately, then moved the cardboard back-and-forth between them. A piece of tape held the cardboard in place while I went up to the screen to compare.


You mentioned that you were taping cardboard in front of the lens and that you were spending time going up to the screen and examining the picture. That didn't sound like just a few seconds (or even 12 seconds). But OK.

I've seen a projector fail when someone covered a lens for just a few minutes. When I'm presenting and I need to cover a lens, I have the paper or cardboard at least a foot away from the lens. YMMV. You do you.


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## Luminated67

pete ramberg said:


> After I did the comparison between the 5050 and the Sony 295ES (and it was pretty exhaustive), I was totally satisfied that Epson's e-shift technology is doing its job well. I photographed both screens and did a "blink comparison" with 2 Photoshop layers and it was remarkable how similar the two images were in terms of pure resolution.
> 
> I am an Epson fan boy, but I was trying to be totally objective. And, it wasn't a blind test, as I knew which projector I was looking at. I'm just saying that I am glad I saved the $2000 and went with the 5050.


The list of those of us who have done the test against the Sony Native 4K machines and find no difference in resolution from normal viewing continues to increase.

When I hear some complaining about SDE and pixel gap I think to myself are we looking at the same machine.


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## pete ramberg

Luminated67 said:


> The list of those of us who have done the test against the Sony Native 4K machines and find no difference in resolution from normal viewing continues to increase.
> 
> When I hear some complaining about SDE and pixel gap I think to myself are we looking at the same machine.




Exactly. Best $2000 I have ever saved!


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## audiophobe

Luminated67 said:


> The list of those of us who have done the test against the Sony Native 4K machines and find no difference in resolution from normal viewing continues to increase.
> 
> When I hear some complaining about SDE and pixel gap I think to myself are we looking at the same machine.


Not surprising people do not see a difference in resolution, as there is little advantage to native 4K as long as you are watching highly compressed video at half chroma resolution. You would need a true Digital Cinema version to see a bigger difference, and even then the photography and mastering would have to be top notch for MTF >0 at 3k and beyond.

I plan to upgrade from my old Pana AE2000, and there are two things I wonder about:

1. I have good vision and I am very sensitive to the screen door effect. Panasonic's "smooth screen" was always a must for me, I cannot stand the normal 2K picture of other LCDs. From the screenshots I saw, the Epson in 4K mode comes close to the Panas, but is it close enough? I currently don't have a dealer nearby to check this out.

2. The new 9400 (6050) costs a lot more here than the older 9300 (6040?). I do not need 4Kp60 or its better HDR processing (using MadVR). I have read the lens controls are more accurate (I have a CIH setup) and calibration is a bit easier, but this might not be worth €800 if the picture is not visibly different. Is the shifting mode better now, or is it just marketing talk?


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## cky2354

This is a question for you experienced Epson 5050ub users, how come when I watch HDR content, the blacks are more gray. When I switch to SDR, then it has much better blacks? I have used the HDR slider and it is between 4 to 6 depending on the brightness I want. I'm using a Apple 4K TV to feed the video. This happens on all video when I have the Apple TV set to 4K HDR 60Hz so I have it set at 4K SDR 60Hz... I actually like the picture better on SDR? What gives? Anyone else have this issue?


----------



## gunlife

cky2354 said:


> This is a question for you experienced Epson 5050ub users, how come when I watch HDR content, the blacks are more gray. When I switch to SDR, then it has much better blacks? I have used the HDR slider and it is between 4 to 6 depending on the brightness I want. I'm using a Apple 4K TV to feed the video. This happens on all video when I have the Apple TV set to 4K HDR 60Hz so I have it set at 4K SDR 60Hz... I actually like the picture better on SDR? What gives? Anyone else have this issue?


This is the biggest problem with the 5050 IMO. They raise the black floor to be able to give blinding highlights. Hopefully someone on here with more knowledge than me can post some setting to allow for a deeper black floor during HDR usage. I do agree that SDR gives a better picture with a much deeper black floor. The best picture I have seen in my theater is with a panasonic Uhd player doing an HDR to SDR conversion. 

I may have to try Madvr after using this.


----------



## tonygeno

I just received the 5050UB and am comparing it to the Benq HT5550. When feeding the Benq 4k shows from my FireTV (Jack Ryan Season 2 4K) it correctly shows the 4K resolution. The Epson seems to be stuck in 1080p HDR with the same show. Is there a setting I am missing? Thanks!


----------



## Luminated67

audiophobe said:


> Not surprising people do not see a difference in resolution, as there is little advantage to native 4K as long as you are watching highly compressed video at half chroma resolution. You would need a true Digital Cinema version to see a bigger difference, and even then the photography and mastering would have to be top notch for MTF >0 at 3k and beyond.
> 
> I plan to upgrade from my old Pana AE2000, and there are two things I wonder about:
> 
> 1. I have good vision and I am very sensitive to the screen door effect. Panasonic's "smooth screen" was always a must for me, I cannot stand the normal 2K picture of other LCDs. From the screenshots I saw, the Epson in 4K mode comes close to the Panas, but is it close enough? I currently don't have a dealer nearby to check this out.
> 
> 2. The new 9400 (6050) costs a lot more here than the older 9300 (6040?). I do not need 4Kp60 or its better HDR processing (using MadVR). I have read the lens controls are more accurate (I have a CIH setup) and calibration is a bit easier, but this might not be worth €800 if the picture is not visibly different. Is the shifting mode better now, or is it just marketing talk?


Hopefully some of the guys that have made the switch from the 5040 to either the 5050 or better still 6050 as it's the same model we get in Europe is indeed better. I do know there's a few on here that have made the switch to the Epson from the Panasonic AE models and all rave about the across the board improvement it has made.


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## skylarlove1999

tonygeno said:


> I just received the 5050UB and am comparing it to the Benq HT5550. When feeding the Benq 4k shows from my FireTV (Jack Ryan Season 2 4K) it correctly shows the 4K resolution. The Epson seems to be stuck in 1080p HDR with the same show. Is there a setting I am missing? Thanks!


Can you please post a photo of your projector info screen? How are determining that the Epson is in 1080P? I assume you are looking at the projector info screen. You have EDID set to expanded correct? Using all the same cables, same AVR and same source device?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

cky2354 said:


> This is a question for you experienced Epson 5050ub users, how come when I watch HDR content, the blacks are more gray. When I switch to SDR, then it has much better blacks? I have used the HDR slider and it is between 4 to 6 depending on the brightness I want. I'm using a Apple 4K TV to feed the video. This happens on all video when I have the Apple TV set to 4K HDR 60Hz so I have it set at 4K SDR 60Hz... I actually like the picture better on SDR? What gives? Anyone else have this issue?


This is not just an issue with Epson projectors. This is an inherent issue to HDR content. Generally speaking with any display not capable of producing the nits in which the content was originally mastered, your display is trying to apply either a static or dynamic remapping, commonly referred to as tone mapping, of the high dynamic range. This is a very complex process and there are not set standards as their is with SDR. Very much trial and error by your display and its technology. HDR will always be a compromise until displays are capable of reaching the nits level of the original content. 

This may only happen once we get to MICRO LED displays. That isn't to say that HDR tone mapping cannot improve but it is a band aid on the actual issue. Expensive video processors such as MadVR, Lumagen and MadVR Envy are capable of much better tone mapping than any display. Obviously they come at a significant cost and they are not perfect for all HDR content. Here is a great article that explains all the complexity of HDR. The bottom line is in order to have lower black floors on Epson and most projectors you will have to sacrifice the specular highlights and shadow detail and the overall brightness. Or you will live with an elevated black floor for an overall brighter image, specular highlights and shadow detail.

JVC line of native 4K projectors received a free firmware update in late October that gave the projectors a dynamic tone mapping solution . It is significantly better than the current EPSON solution which is static tone mapping combined with using the HDR slider, using the good old eye test. 

Static is using the same overall brightness adjustment for the entire movie whereas the JVC solution uses a proprietary algorithm to apply a brightness adjustment on either a scene by scene or frame by frame basis. So when you go from a dark frame within a scene right to a brighter frame within that same scene the tone mapping is adjusted dynamically where the static tone mapping would only adjust the mapping once at the start of the movie. You are seeing the issue this static tone mapping causes with the elevated black floor. 

This is a 6 part series with the links all at the end of the first part. 

https://hometheaterhifi.com/technic...range-hdr-fundamental-concepts-dynamic-range/

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## tonygeno

skylarlove1999 said:


> Can you please post a photo of your projector info screen? How are determining that the Epson is in 1080P? I assume you are looking at the projector info screen. You have EDID set to expanded correct? Using all the same cables, same AVR and same source device?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Since I am at work, this will have to wait until this evening. I don't know what EDID is. Where do I set it to expanded? I am looking at both the info from FireTV as well as the info from the projector. It has never shown anything above 1080p.


----------



## skylarlove1999

tonygeno said:


> Since I am at work, this will have to wait until this evening. I don't know what EDID is. Where do I set it to expanded? I am looking at both the info from FireTV as well as the info from the projector. It has never shown anything above 1080p.


Check back in tonight and I am sure myself and others can help. My son has a wrestling match tonight but I will be back on around 10 eastern time. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## cky2354

skylarlove1999 said:


> This is not just an issue with Epson projectors. This is an inherent issue to HDR content. Generally speaking with any display not capable of producing the nits in which the content was originally mastered, your display is trying to apply either a static or dynamic remapping, commonly referred to as tone mapping, of the high dynamic range. This is a very complex process and there are not set standards as their is with SDR. Very much trial and error by your display and its technology. HDR will always be a compromise until displays are capable of reaching the nits level of the original content.
> 
> This may only happen once we get to MICRO LED displays. That isn't to say that HDR tone mapping cannot improve but it is a band aid on the actual issue. Expensive video processors such as MadVR, Lumagen and MadVR Envy are capable of much better tone mapping than any display. Obviously they come at a significant cost and they are not perfect for all HDR content. Here is a great article that explains all the complexity of HDR. The bottom line is in order to have lower black floors on Epson and most projectors you will have to sacrifice the specular highlights and shadow detail and the overall brightness. Or you will live with an elevated black floor for an overall brighter image, specular highlights and shadow detail.
> 
> JVC line of native 4K projectors received a free firmware update in late October that gave the projectors a dynamic tone mapping solution . It is significantly better than the current EPSON solution which is static tone mapping combined with using the HDR slider, using the good old eye test.
> 
> Static is using the same overall brightness adjustment for the entire movie whereas the JVC solution uses a proprietary algorithm to apply a brightness adjustment on either a scene by scene or frame by frame basis. So when you go from a dark frame within a scene right to a brighter frame within that same scene the tone mapping is adjusted dynamically where the static tone mapping would only adjust the mapping once at the start of the movie. You are seeing the issue this static tone mapping causes with the elevated black floor.
> 
> This is a 6 part series with the links all at the end of the first part.
> 
> https://hometheaterhifi.com/technic...range-hdr-fundamental-concepts-dynamic-range/
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you so much.. you explained this very well! I guess my only confusion is then this does not apply to TVs? I have no such issues on either my Samsung UHD TV or my LG OLED..... the HDR content on those are spectacular! I was watching lot of HDR content on the Epson and I was like... why are the blacks so gray? It did seem to have better brightness but I would rather sacrifice that for better black floor. The reason I returned previous DLP projectors for this Epson was because of the black level and contrast and it seems watching HDR on this kind of defeats its purpose. I might have to do what everyone is doing for the UHD content is get the Panasonic UB420 and convert the HDR to SDR to get wide color gamut but not muted blacks it seems. Is this the best solution?


----------



## jaredmwright

cky2354 said:


> Thank you so much.. you explained this very well! I guess my only confusion is then this does not apply to TVs? I have no such issues on either my Samsung UHD TV or my LG OLED..... the HDR content on those are spectacular! I was watching lot of HDR content on the Epson and I was like... why are the blacks so gray? It did seem to have better brightness but I would rather sacrifice that for better black floor. The reason I returned previous DLP projectors for this Epson was because of the black level and contrast and it seems watching HDR on this kind of defeats its purpose. I might have to do what everyone is doing for the UHD content is get the Panasonic UB420 and convert the HDR to SDR to get wide color gamut but not muted blacks it seems. Is this the best solution?


I would like an option for the Epson projector to force SDR to avoid these issues, it would be relatively trivial to add a flag for the right mode to avoid this hassle since it mostly takes away having to mess with settings all the time. You can do this from source devices such as nVidia Shield which is what I do and it is a much better experience for me, but would be best if all sources could be forced if a user wanted. 

Or, Epson can add dynamic tone mapping? Doubtful, probably will be on the next projector to get us all to upgrade...

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

cky2354 said:


> Thank you so much.. you explained this very well! I guess my only confusion is then this does not apply to TVs? I have no such issues on either my Samsung UHD TV or my LG OLED..... the HDR content on those are spectacular! I was watching lot of HDR content on the Epson and I was like... why are the blacks so gray? It did seem to have better brightness but I would rather sacrifice that for better black floor. The reason I returned previous DLP projectors for this Epson was because of the black level and contrast and it seems watching HDR on this kind of defeats its purpose. I might have to do what everyone is doing for the UHD content is get the Panasonic UB420 and convert the HDR to SDR to get wide color gamut but not muted blacks it seems. Is this the best solution?


Nits are generally how you hear televisions discussed for brightness. Projectors you hear lumens. 3.5 lumens is roughly equal to 1 nit. LED/LCD Televisions in general produce around 1000 nits. Some higher and some lower . OLED usually lower around 500 to 750 nits. Brightness isn't the only factor for HDR but it is a major one.

SDR only really needs around 100 nits. HDR around 1000 nits. Projectors really struggle to get to 100 nits. So you can see the issue. This is where tone mapping solutions factor into the HDR performance of your display. Your projector is going to be last in HDR performance compared to a television. Your ambient lighting conditions and overall room colors and room reflections will affect perceived contrast and HDR perception. A candle in a sunlight room doesn't look as bright as the same candle in a dark room. Televisions are brighter by design and are better able to overcome ambient light and room reflections.

There are higher gain screens that can help with increasing the nits on screen.They have tradeoffs as well. Moving a projector closer to the screen will get more nits. Going with a smaller screen will increase nits. But until projectors can produce more lumens the solution for HDR is tone mapping and probably always will be. So projector manufacturers are working on dynamic tone mapping solutions like JVC has already created. The lower the lumens the better the tone mapping solution needs to be. 

Even televisions that can produce up to 1000 nits are still using tone mapping, considering HDR content can be mastered in up to 10,000 nits. Most HDR content is mastered between 1000 and 4000 nits. That is a huge range so you can see where tone mapping would struggle with such a wide range to display that same content on a projector only capable of 100 nits. I could go on but I think you get the point. You may prefer SDR but using the BT.2020 color space. There is no right or wrong answer. Each person has to decide how they prefer the image on their screen. I have included some informative articles should you want to increase your knowledge. 


https://www.lifewire.com/understanding-nits-lumens-brightness-4125499

https://hometheatreengineering.com/projectors-screen-sizes/

https://hometheatreengineering.com/projectors-screen-sizes/



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

cky2354 said:


> Thank you so much.. you explained this very well! I guess my only confusion is then this does not apply to TVs? I have no such issues on either my Samsung UHD TV or my LG OLED..... the HDR content on those are spectacular! I was watching lot of HDR content on the Epson and I was like... why are the blacks so gray? It did seem to have better brightness but I would rather sacrifice that for better black floor. The reason I returned previous DLP projectors for this Epson was because of the black level and contrast and it seems watching HDR on this kind of defeats its purpose. I might have to do what everyone is doing for the UHD content is get the Panasonic UB420 and convert the HDR to SDR to get wide color gamut but not muted blacks it seems. Is this the best solution?


I will say that the 420 is the easiest and cheapest way to go. Again it only does a static tone map. But its static tone mapping is much better than the 5050s internal. I only paid 150.00 for the 420 at bestbuy during the holidays and its a great player for the price. Not only for tone mapping but its upscaling for regular blue rays is mighty impressive as well. Although its streaming apps setup is the worst I have used in years.

If you want to build a powerful computer with a Nvidia GPU you can run Madvr and get some of, if not the best dynamic tone mapping out there. I have a gaming PC in my theater and the complexity of a using it for a HTCP is just more than I personally want to take on.

I knew the 5050 raised the black floor a lot before I purchased. I was running an Epson 4000 before and I wanted to get some good use out of it before I upgraded. So I took my time reading up on basically all projectors from the JVCs down to the Benq HT3550. The biggest red flag was that many review sites that did comparisons between the Epson 5050 and the Benq HT5550 said that while in HDR mode the two projector were even with black levels! So how in the Hell did Benq, using an imagining technology that only gets around 800-1 native contrast ratio pull that off???? One reason is obviously Benq has "better" tone mapping.... Well kinda... It seems they flatten the HDR out more than Epson leaving a much smaller gap between the highs and lows. The other reason is because they don't put out nearly as much light. If an Epson is putting out 1100 lumens on screen and the Benq is only doing 600 that right there could make a big difference on perceived blacks. So I am going to try to flatten the HDR out a bit on the Epson and then run eco mode and stop the iris down some to see if it will improve the black floor. Yes this will destroy blinding highligts!

BTW the HDR black floor on the 5050 out of the box has a black floor extremely close to my Epson 4000 in SDR mode!!!! Yes the 5050 in SDR smokes the 4000 in black floor.


----------



## plain fan

As I've posted, I'm debating between the Epson 5050/6050 and the JVC NX5 as my next projector and one of the items that I'm looking at between the two is the apparent difference in sharpness between the two. When I compared the two projectors, each was being fed a native 4k signal and an upscaled 1080p to 4k signal, by the blu-ray player. The sharpness difference between the images was the same for each projector, regardless of source resolution, 4k or upscaled 1080p.

This is my question, is anyone displaying 1080p from a 1080p source or is everyone upscaling to 4k? I'm curious if I'd be less particular with the Epson at native 1080p versus watching it upscaled, from the source or within the projector, to 4k.

TIA


----------



## biglen

gunlife said:


> I will say that the 420 is the easiest and cheapest way to go. Again it only does a static tone map. But its static tone mapping is much better than the 5050s internal. I only paid 150.00 for the 420 at bestbuy during the holidays and its a great player for the price. Not only for tone mapping but its upscaling for regular blue rays is mighty impressive as well. Although its streaming apps setup is the worst I have used in years.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to build a powerful computer with a Nvidia GPU you can run Madvr and get some of, if not the best dynamic tone mapping out there. I have a gaming PC in my theater and the complexity of a using it for a HTCP is just more than I personally want to take on.
> 
> 
> 
> I knew the 5050 raised the black floor a lot before I purchased. I was running an Epson 4000 before and I wanted to get some good use out of it before I upgraded. So I took my time reading up on basically all projectors from the JVCs down to the Benq HT3550. The biggest red flag was that many review sites that did comparisons between the Epson 5050 and the Benq HT5550 said that while in HDR mode the two projector were even with black levels! So how in the Hell did Benq, using an imagining technology that only gets around 800-1 native contrast ratio pull that off???? One reason is obviously Benq has "better" tone mapping.... Well kinda... It seems they flatten the HDR out more than Epson leaving a much smaller gap between the highs and lows. The other reason is because they don't put out nearly as much light. If an Epson is putting out 1100 lumens on screen and the Benq is only doing 600 that right there could make a big difference on perceived blacks. So I am going to try to flatten the HDR out a bit on the Epson and then run eco mode and stop the iris down some to see if it will improve the black floor. Yes this will destroy blinding highligts!
> 
> 
> 
> BTW the HDR black floor on the 5050 out of the box has a black floor extremely close to my Epson 4000 in SDR mode!!!! Yes the 5050 in SDR smokes the 4000 in black floor.


I also have the 420. The guy who calibrated my 5050 commented on how great a job it does with tone mapping. He has me set up so that the 420 does the tone mapping, and not the 5050. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

I have found that at least with an AppleTV 4K as a source, that configuring the device for 4K60 HDR globally at 4:2:2 Chroma (without match content options), results in superior contrast and color for HDR content...

If I configure the device as recommended by most (4K60 SDR 4:4:4 with match range and rate), yes... the device does look great for SDR content and does switch to the appropriate HDR and refresh rate setting, but HDR content looks dull and has the appearance of a raised black level.

I wonder if it’s more about 60hz input at the Epson vs 24hz (Match rate) or if it’s an AppleTV 4K professing quirk, but the difference is pretty big in terms of picture. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## AVTimme

New TW9400/6050UB ordered! Im thrilled and I can't wait to get my hands on this piece of equipment!


Do you guys use Auto Dynamic Iris or do you use it manually?


----------



## ivanhoek

AVTimme said:


> New TW9400/6050UB ordered!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys use Auto Dynamic Iris or do you use it manually?




I like the auto iris and have it set to high speed.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## AVTimme

ivanhoek said:


> I like the auto iris and have it set to high speed.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Interesting! The guys I ordered it from didn't like the auto Iris :/ will be nice to try both!


----------



## jch2

AVTimme said:


> ivanhoek said:
> 
> 
> 
> I like the auto iris and have it set to high speed.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting! The guys I ordered it from didn't like the auto Iris 😕 will be nice to try both!
Click to expand...

You can use both at the same time. Auto Iris for dynamic blacks and highlights by scene, and manual iris dial-down to control light levels if eco isn't dark enough. I personally use high speed dynamic iris and no manual iris dial-down (I love brightness!). I love the black level and detail in dark scenes, but I also love the bright a vivid colors of bright scenes. Auto Iris you get both and you don't even notice the Iris pumping, except when it fades to black and then it looks like it is part of the fade.

I can't wait for iris-less pure direct three color modulated laser projection to come to home cinema. Then we'll finally get 1,000+ nits and perfect blacks using projection technology. There's already three color laser with color-wheel-less DLP, so we're getting there. The Epson 5050/6050 is still pretty awesome nonetheless. Much better picture than most movie theater projection systems.


----------



## Luminated67

AVTimme said:


> Interesting! The guys I ordered it from didn't like the auto Iris :/ will be nice to try both!


Most professional calibrators don’t use Dynamic Iris regardless of the brand of projector. I’m sure from a professional perspective your shouldn’t be using it but I think it’s up to the individual, I happen to like it and don’t noticed the pumping unless it’s with the titles at the end of the film.


----------



## ivanhoek

Luminated67 said:


> Most professional calibrators don’t use Dynamic Iris regardless of the brand of projector. I’m sure from a professional perspective your shouldn’t be using it but I think it’s up to the individual, I happen to like it and don’t noticed the pumping unless it’s with the titles at the end of the film.




I think it’s silly to argue “purity”/“accuracy” in an image so processed .. I mean, the projector uses shift and literally has half the pixels in the signal. I say let’s get the most pleasing picture we can. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## DocOrange88

This is slightly off topic from the current line but I wanted to toss out some 3D feedback. As our projector (Mine is 5050) are able to project 3D. The performance due to the projectors brightness is amazing. It does require some tweaks to the 3D setting to get it just right but it far and away is the best performance I've had, better than a movie theater or any 3D I've ever seen. In context over my life time, comparing to, Dolby 3D, RealD, IMAX 3D and Digital IMAX 3D. 

I am super impressed with the 3D on the project. So to help people out once you get a 3D blu-ray in go to your 3D settings and turn off the warning, it messes up the project when it tries to switch to 3D for viewing the 3D menus on 3D blu-rays. Getting your screen size setting is also critical and adjust your depth setting for the correct viewing distance. 

Having come from DLP link having Bluetooth sync'd glasses makes for a far more better viewing experience. I may test out some other glasses as well, the ones I have are glossy and are reflecting causing some viewing strangeness in bight scenes. Anyway just wanted to toss that out there the 3D is amazing.


----------



## ivanhoek

DocOrange88 said:


> This is slightly off topic from the current line but I wanted to toss out some 3D feedback. As our projector (Mine is 5050) are able to project 3D. The performance due to the projectors brightness is amazing. It does require some tweaks to the 3D setting to get it just right but it far and away is the best performance I've had, better than a movie theater or any 3D I've ever seen. In context over my life time, comparing to, Dolby 3D, RealD, IMAX 3D and Digital IMAX 3D.
> 
> 
> 
> I am super impressed with the 3D on the project. So to help people out once you get a 3D blu-ray in go to your 3D settings and turn off the warning, it messes up the project when it tries to switch to 3D for viewing the 3D menus on 3D blu-rays. Getting your screen size setting is also critical and adjust your depth setting for the correct viewing distance.
> 
> 
> 
> Having come from DLP link having Bluetooth sync'd glasses makes for a far more better viewing experience. I may test out some other glasses as well, the ones I have are glossy and are reflecting causing some viewing strangeness in bight scenes. Anyway just wanted to toss that out there the 3D is amazing.




I agree... I dug up some of my old 3D Blu-ray’s and played them for my son. He LOVES it and is now always requesting 3D lol

I didn’t realize he had never seen a 3D movie.. we always do the 2D showings and I hadn’t played any 3D at home in years.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

ivanhoek said:


> I think it’s silly to argue “purity”/“accuracy” in an image so processed .. I mean, the projector uses shift and literally has half the pixels in the signal. I say let’s get the most pleasing picture we can.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I agree it’s totally up to the individual as to how they like their image, whether that is with the most actual colours as the projector can achieve or with loads of colour pop. I personally like a natural/realistic image which is why I paid for a professional calibration but I can’t knock anyone who prefers the other.

Half the pixels of the signal but I and others here have compared it against proper 4K machines and can’t see the difference from normal viewing distances. I’m not saying some people won’t notice at normal distances but most won’t and likewise I realise some want to watch from even closer distances than what’s classed at normal so they will definitely benefit from the increased pixel count but I think most of this is marketing, 8K definitely is...... there’s getting an immersive experience and then there’s WAY too close, frankly I doubt anyone will benefit from 8K over 4K. But this won’t stop people wanting the latest tech.


----------



## Jason Young

Hi! 
I'm trying to use my new system, but having problems. 

I have new:
Epson 5050ub
Yamaha rx-v385
Mediabridge 91-02X-35B Ultra Series HDMI Cable - 35-Feet
Google Chromecast Ultra
Nintendo Switch

Chromecast plugged into HDMI1 and then H?DMI out of Yamaha to epson.
First night everything ok. 

I saw "Source: HDMI1 not supported" once or twice but it went away. 

Then next morning this error kept happening more frequent. 
Now I cannot get a picture at all. (Just repeats that message)

I unplugged the 35' HDMI cable from the Yamaha, and plugged into my Mac-book Pro to to Epson. (Works perfect)
I also tried plugging my Chromecast directly into the back of the Epson, again works fine. 
I also get the error with the Yamaha on the HDMI2 (where the Nintendo is plugged), "Source: HDMI2 not supported". 

So: I feel like I have eliminated the 35' cable, and the Chromecast, and the Epson as the problem souirce.

This leaves just the Yamaha to blame. 
I don't know anything about the signals/standards and settings to give on the Yamaha. I'm still nw to all of this. Any help would surely be appreciated 

Any ideas?


----------



## Jason Young

Currently looking through Yamaha manual at troubleshooting steps.


----------



## jch2

Jason Young said:


> Hi!
> I'm trying to use my new system, but having problems.
> 
> I have new:
> Epson 5050ub
> Yamaha rx-v385
> Mediabridge 91-02X-35B Ultra Series HDMI Cable - 35-Feet
> Google Chromecast Ultra
> Nintendo Switch
> 
> Chromecast plugged into HDMI1 and then H?DMI out of Yamaha to epson.
> First night everything ok.
> 
> I saw "Source: HDMI1 not supported" once or twice but it went away.
> 
> Then next morning this error kept happening more frequent.
> Now I cannot get a picture at all. (Just repeats that message)
> 
> I unplugged the 35' HDMI cable from the Yamaha, and plugged into my Mac-book Pro to to Epson. (Works perfect)
> I also tried plugging my Chromecast directly into the back of the Epson, again works fine.
> I also get the error with the Yamaha on the HDMI2 (where the Nintendo is plugged), "Source: HDMI2 not supported".
> 
> So: I feel like I have eliminated the 35' cable, and the Chromecast, and the Epson as the problem souirce.
> 
> This leaves just the Yamaha to blame.
> I don't know anything about the signals/standards and settings to give on the Yamaha. I'm still nw to all of this. Any help would surely be appreciated /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> Any ideas?


It's your Mediabrige cable. It can't reliably handle high bandwidth 4k HDR images (anything over 9gbps). The high bandwidth 4k HDR modes go up to 18gbps. Get an active cable, either a Blue Jeans Cable Series-3A (I use a 40' version of this one) or a hybrid fiber cable (either a cheap one from Amazon like the MavisLink, or an expensive one like the RUIPRO). I tested both of these too and they both work. My Mediabrige did not. With an active cable and the 5050 the Yamaha AVR's HDMI out will need to be toggled between HDMI Out 1 and HDMI Out 2 instead of being left in HDMI Out 1+2 mode.

See this thread for more details on long 4k cables:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/168-...gbps-hdmi-2-0b-45.html#/topics/2834097?page=1


----------



## ivanhoek

Luminated67 said:


> I agree it’s totally up to the individual as to how they like their image, whether that is with the most actual colours as the projector can achieve or with loads of colour pop. I personally like a natural/realistic image which is why I paid for a professional calibration but I can’t knock anyone who prefers the other.
> 
> 
> 
> Half the pixels of the signal but I and others here have compared it against proper 4K machines and can’t see the difference from normal viewing distances. I’m not saying some people won’t notice at normal distances but most won’t and likewise I realise some want to watch from even closer distances than what’s classed at normal so they will definitely benefit from the increased pixel count but I think most of this is marketing, 8K definitely is...... there’s getting an immersive experience and then there’s WAY too close, frankly I doubt anyone will benefit from 8K over 4K. But this won’t stop people wanting the latest tech.




Oh, I’m quite happy with the results of the pixel shift. I have also compared to my previous UHD60 which has double the pixels, and imo this picture looks better. Color, contrast, quality of processing etc all play a role. I don’t have any complaints with sharpness either... however, signals are very processed today and I am under no illusions of “accuracy” or “faithful reproduction”. 

I’ll take great reproduction though, which the 5050 does provide.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Jason Young said:


> Hi!
> 
> I'm trying to use my new system, but having problems.
> 
> 
> 
> I have new:
> 
> Epson 5050ub
> 
> Yamaha rx-v385
> 
> Mediabridge 91-02X-35B Ultra Series HDMI Cable - 35-Feet
> 
> Google Chromecast Ultra
> 
> Nintendo Switch
> 
> 
> 
> Chromecast plugged into HDMI1 and then H?DMI out of Yamaha to epson.
> 
> First night everything ok.
> 
> 
> 
> I saw "Source: HDMI1 not supported" once or twice but it went away.
> 
> 
> 
> Then next morning this error kept happening more frequent.
> 
> Now I cannot get a picture at all. (Just repeats that message)
> 
> 
> 
> I unplugged the 35' HDMI cable from the Yamaha, and plugged into my Mac-book Pro to to Epson. (Works perfect)
> 
> I also tried plugging my Chromecast directly into the back of the Epson, again works fine.
> 
> I also get the error with the Yamaha on the HDMI2 (where the Nintendo is plugged), "Source: HDMI2 not supported".
> 
> 
> 
> So: I feel like I have eliminated the 35' cable, and the Chromecast, and the Epson as the problem souirce.
> 
> 
> 
> This leaves just the Yamaha to blame.
> 
> I don't know anything about the signals/standards and settings to give on the Yamaha. I'm still nw to all of this. Any help would surely be appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas?


Try setting HDCP version to auto in the setup menu under HDMI. I have seen some issues when it isn't. I agree that it is most likely your cable. But can't hurt to try.










Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Jason Young said:


> Hi!
> I'm trying to use my new system, but having problems.
> 
> I have new:
> Epson 5050ub
> Yamaha rx-v385
> Mediabridge 91-02X-35B Ultra Series HDMI Cable - 35-Feet
> Google Chromecast Ultra
> Nintendo Switch
> 
> Chromecast plugged into HDMI1 and then H?DMI out of Yamaha to epson.
> First night everything ok.
> 
> I saw "Source: HDMI1 not supported" once or twice but it went away.
> 
> Then next morning this error kept happening more frequent.
> Now I cannot get a picture at all. (Just repeats that message)
> 
> I unplugged the 35' HDMI cable from the Yamaha, and plugged into my Mac-book Pro to to Epson. (Works perfect)
> I also tried plugging my Chromecast directly into the back of the Epson, again works fine.
> I also get the error with the Yamaha on the HDMI2 (where the Nintendo is plugged), "Source: HDMI2 not supported".
> 
> So: I feel like I have eliminated the 35' cable, and the Chromecast, and the Epson as the problem souirce.
> 
> This leaves just the Yamaha to blame.
> I don't know anything about the signals/standards and settings to give on the Yamaha. I'm still nw to all of this. Any help would surely be appreciated
> 
> Any ideas?


Does indeed sound like the problem sits with the Yamaha but I imagine the problems is in its setup menu rather than the machine itself. I have never owned a Yamaha so can’t advise as to what’s exactly wrong or how to fix it so hopefully someone else will jump in quickly and help you out.

Just a quick question, you say you tried the 35’ HDMI into your Mac PC but what signal did you feed your Epson with was it 4K 60Hz HDR?

More often than not the cable which claims to be full 4K actually isn’t, I’m a firm believe if you buy a 18Gbps Projector your next purchase needs to be a Optical HDMI cable in the appropriate length you need.


----------



## Jason Young

jch2 said:


> It's your Mediabrige cable. It can't reliably handle high bandwidth 4k HDR images (anything over 9gbps). The high bandwidth 4k HDR modes go up to 18gbps. Get an active cable, either a Blue Jeans Cable Series-3A (I use a 40' version of this one) or a hybrid fiber cable (either a cheap one from Amazon like the MavisLink, or an expensive one like the RUIPRO). I tested both of these too and they both work. My Mediabrige did not. With an active cable and the 5050 the Yamaha AVR's HDMI out will need to be toggled between HDMI Out 1 and HDMI Out 2 instead of being left in HDMI Out 1+2 mode.
> 
> See this thread for more details on long 4k cables:


Ok thanks, I'll start reading. 



skylarlove1999 said:


> Try setting HDCP version to auto in the setup menu under HDMI. I have seen some issues when it isn't. I agree that it is most likely your cable. But can't hurt to try.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


OK I checked, all HDMI's HDCP are set to auto.
I did notice that when I toggled "HDMI Control" from on to off and then back to "On", that my Nintendo Switch on HDMI2 started working again....

I found that strange. After 20 minutes its still working fine. But not the Chromecast on HDMI1.
I'm guessing the Switch is not 4k HDR


----------



## Jason Young

Also I just plugged a normal Chromecast into HDMI3 (no an Ultra, but the old version), and its working as expected.


----------



## ivanhoek

Luminated67 said:


> Does indeed sound like the problem sits with the Yamaha but I imagine the problems is in its setup menu rather than the machine itself. I have never owned a Yamaha so can’t advise as to what’s exactly wrong or how to fix it so hopefully someone else will jump in quickly and help you out.
> 
> 
> 
> Just a quick question, you say you tried the 35’ HDMI into your Mac PC but what signal did you feed your Epson with was it 4K 60Hz HDR?
> 
> 
> 
> More often than not the cable which claims to be full 4K actually isn’t, I’m a firm believe if you buy a 18Gbps Projector your next purchase needs to be a Optical HDMI cable in the appropriate length you need.




I agree it’s the cable. The Mac outputs 4K60hz 4:2:0 at 12bit color, from what I’ve observed... and it depends on the model and the port used. 

I ended up with a 35ft Ruipro to get reliable performance. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Jason Young said:


> Also I just plugged a normal Chromecast into HDMI3 (no an Ultra, but the old version), and its working as expected.


Well that’s sounding like your cable isn’t up to the task of fulfilling full fat 4K. Honestly they aren’t as dearer as you think to buy an Optical one, plus buying from Amazon allows you the return policy if you get a dud.

https://www.amazon.com/Fiber-BIFALE...pY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1


----------



## cky2354

DocOrange88 said:


> This is slightly off topic from the current line but I wanted to toss out some 3D feedback. As our projector (Mine is 5050) are able to project 3D. The performance due to the projectors brightness is amazing. It does require some tweaks to the 3D setting to get it just right but it far and away is the best performance I've had, better than a movie theater or any 3D I've ever seen. In context over my life time, comparing to, Dolby 3D, RealD, IMAX 3D and Digital IMAX 3D.
> 
> I am super impressed with the 3D on the project. So to help people out once you get a 3D blu-ray in go to your 3D settings and turn off the warning, it messes up the project when it tries to switch to 3D for viewing the 3D menus on 3D blu-rays. Getting your screen size setting is also critical and adjust your depth setting for the correct viewing distance.
> 
> Having come from DLP link having Bluetooth sync'd glasses makes for a far more better viewing experience. I may test out some other glasses as well, the ones I have are glossy and are reflecting causing some viewing strangeness in bight scenes. Anyway just wanted to toss that out there the 3D is amazing.


Would you be willing to share your settings? I can't seem to get the best 3D out of this Epson. 3D is very important for me and I was on the verge of getting the Optoma UHD51A since I heard it was so good at 3D.. have you compared this to a DLP projector? I do get ghosting and crosstalk and that's what I didn't like about the Epson unless I tone the 3D way down to default of 0 or 1 and then it is much better but 3D is not as strong. I have over 500 3D Blu-rays so it's good thing that SDR works great on this... wish that I can get the HDR to look great too since I do own as much UHD 4K Blu-ray as well.

I have the Opto 203 UHD player … would that be able to do the tone mapping like the Panasonic ub420?


----------



## DunMunro

cky2354 said:


> Would you be willing to share your settings? I can't seem to get the best 3D out of this Epson. 3D is very important for me and I was on the verge of getting the Optoma UHD51A since I heard it was so good at 3D.. have you compared this to a DLP projector? I do get ghosting and crosstalk and that's what I didn't like about the Epson unless I tone the 3D way down to default of 0 or 1 and then it is much better but 3D is not as strong. I have over 500 3D Blu-rays so it's good thing that SDR works great on this... wish that I can get the HDR to look great too since I do own as much UHD 4K Blu-ray as well.
> 
> I have the Opto 203 UHD player … would that be able to do the tone mapping like the Panasonic ub420?



If 3D is your thing, then I would suggest looking at the Optoma ZH403 or ZH406. They should have superb 3D due to their high output (Projector Central reported favourably on the ZH403 3D).


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> If 3D is your thing, then I would suggest looking at the Optoma ZH403 or ZH406. They should have superb 3D due to their high output (Projector Central reported favourably on the ZH403 3D).


I have an honest question. You always seem to pop into threads for brands other than Optoma and suggest Optoma projectors. Many times when no question or advice is being requested. You don't seem to ask any questions about budget, room conditions, projector usage, screen material, etc. I am curious as to why you push Optoma so hard? Do you have an affiliation with Optoma? Certainly okay if you do, just something that would be important to know if you are recommending Optoma projectors. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> If 3D is your thing, then I would suggest looking at the Optoma ZH403 or ZH406. They should have superb 3D due to their high output (Projector Central reported favourably on the ZH403 3D).


Comments directly from Projector Central. I would think that if they thought it viable for home theater use their summation would mention it. 

Our Take on the Optoma ZH403

At this writing, the DLP-based Optoma ZH403 is the least expensive native 1080p laser projector on the planet by several hundred dollars, and its aggressive price is even more impressive when considered alongside its performance. Quite simply, the combination of features and performance is spot on for the kinds of applications the projector is meant for, most notably presentations and occasional video in a mid-to-large size room as well as digital signage and museum exhibits.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Op...0626&mfg_name=Optoma&article_id=1781#Our Take


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## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have an honest question. You always seem to pop into threads for brands other than Optoma and suggest Optoma projectors. Many times when no question or advice is being requested. You don't seem to ask any questions about budget, room conditions, projector usage, screen material, etc. I am curious as to why you push Optoma so hard? Do you have an affiliation with Optoma? Certainly okay if you do, just something that would be important to know if you are recommending Optoma projectors.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




This was stated in the post prior to mine:

_
"Would you be willing to share your settings? I can't seem to get the best 3D out of this Epson. 3D is very important for me and I was on the verge of getting the Optoma UHD51A since I heard it was so good at 3D.. have you compared this to a DLP projector? I do get ghosting and crosstalk and that's what I didn't like about the Epson unless I tone the 3D way down to default of 0 or 1 and then it is much better but 3D is not as strong. I have over 500 3D Blu-rays so it's good thing that SDR works great on this... wish that I can get the HDR to look great too since I do own as much UHD 4K Blu-ray as well."_

So my response is topical, and I know that he recently tested a UHL55 as per the thread in the deals found subforum. No, I have no affiliation to Optoma or any other company.

This is a user response from this forum:
"_Now for the ZH403. The Game Room is smaller than the two previous rooms and the projector shoots to a 90 inch screen of the same type as in the other two rooms, from a distance of 8.5 ft. Oppo BD players provided the feed for all three projectors. The Game Room can also be made totally dark. The 403 is a light canon and that was enhanced by the shorter throw and the smaller screen. The same disk was use but this time I watch the whole disk. The 3d was so good that I could not stop watching it. I've owned 4 Benqs and this is my 3rd Optoma and this one plays the best 3d of all. Settings were default; 3d with Dynamic Black. Colors were very good when there were colors, but in a few scenes close up facials showed a slight purplish overshadow. If I wasn't looking for it, I wouldn't have noticed it. Detail was very sharp. The Benq glasses worked flawlessly. I don't know if it's the brightness, the laser, or the color wheel, but 3d works on this projector, or at least it does for this one disk._"
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...zh403-hdr-laser-projector-3.html#post59154414


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> This was stated in the post prior to mine:
> 
> 
> 
> _
> 
> "Would you be willing to share your settings? I can't seem to get the best 3D out of this Epson. 3D is very important for me and I was on the verge of getting the Optoma UHD51A since I heard it was so good at 3D.. have you compared this to a DLP projector? I do get ghosting and crosstalk and that's what I didn't like about the Epson unless I tone the 3D way down to default of 0 or 1 and then it is much better but 3D is not as strong. I have over 500 3D Blu-rays so it's good thing that SDR works great on this... wish that I can get the HDR to look great too since I do own as much UHD 4K Blu-ray as well."_
> 
> 
> 
> So my response is topical, and I know that he recently tested a UHL55 as per the thread in the deals found subforum. No, I have no affiliation to Optoma or any other company.


The person you quoted owns a 5050. I am not sure he is looking to sell his 5050. He was asking for settings assistance for 3D with his 5050, since this is the owner's thread for the 5050/6050. Do you have any real world experience with the 5050/6050 regarding 3D performance compared to the Optoma 403? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> The person you quoted owns a 5050. I am not sure he is looking to sell his 5050. He was asking for settings assistance for 3D with his 5050, since this is the owner's thread for the 5050/6050. Do you have any real world experience with the 5050/6050 regarding 3D performance compared to the Optoma 403?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I think cky2354 is quite capable of replying for himself.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> I think cky2354 is quite capable of replying for himself.


 If you are suggesting a projector designed for use in a museum setting as an alternative to a projector designed for home theater use it would be helpful for us to know if you have been able to compare the projectors in question for yourself and provide valuable insight. 

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## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> If you are suggesting a projector designed for use in a museum setting as an alternative to a projector designed for home theater use it would be helpful for us to know if you have been able to compare the projectors in question for yourself and provide valuable insight.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



From my post above:


"_The Game Room can also be made totally dark. The 403 is a light canon and that was enhanced by the shorter throw and the smaller screen. The same disk was use but this time I watch the whole disk. The 3d was so good that I could not stop watching it. I've owned 4 Benqs and this is my 3rd Optoma and this one plays the best 3d of all. Settings were default; 3d with Dynamic Black._"
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...zh403-hdr-laser-projector-3.html#post59154414


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> From my post above:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "_The Game Room can also be made totally dark. The 403 is a light canon and that was enhanced by the shorter throw and the smaller screen. The same disk was use but this time I watch the whole disk. The 3d was so good that I could not stop watching it. I've owned 4 Benqs and this is my 3rd Optoma and this one plays the best 3d of all. Settings were default; 3d with Dynamic Black._"
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...zh403-hdr-laser-projector-3.html#post59154414


So no real world experience with either projector. You are simply relaying information you have found that you think might be helpful. The OP owns the 5050 and was looking for 3D settings for his projector. Do you have any useful information about the best 3D settings for the EPSON 5050? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DunMunro

skylarlove1999 said:


> Do you have any useful information about the best 3D settings for the EPSON 5050?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Do you? 

If you do, then pray provide them.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DunMunro said:


> Do you?
> 
> 
> 
> If you do, then pray provide them.


I do not I do not watch 3D content. That is why I did not try to answer the Ops original question. When I do have real world information that can answer a posters question I definitely do so. When I do not I remain silent. 

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## Luminated67

@cky2354 I don’t watch any 3D movie but I do know @Alaric on AVForums does and he has calibrated his machine himself so should be able to give great advice. If not a member there I would recommend joining and ask him a few question.... super helpful bloke.


----------



## cky2354

That's not a problem guys... I appreciate everyone's help here. I'm just trying to dial in the best settings for 3D with my new Epson. I really like this projector and will be keeping it and will not be looking for anything else till my next upgrade. My next purchase will be the Panasonic UB420 UHD Blu-ray player for HDR content and I will be all set. 

One more question... how about 4K HDR streaming content? What is best way to view that?


----------



## jch2

cky2354 said:


> One more question... how about 4K HDR streaming content? What is best way to view that?


Apple TV 4k has the best ability to play 4k HDR content. It does every app (Nettflix, Amazon Prime Video, Vudu, Disney+, etc) except Fox Sports in 4k HDR with Dolby Atmos, and except YouTube which is limited to 1080p SDR. Set your Apple TV to 4k 60Hz HDR with 4:2:2 Chroma and auto frame rate and auto dynamic color for best results.

For YouTube 4k HDR use an Amazon Fire Stick 4k and set it to 12-bit color depth. It is the only streamer that can do YouTube 4k HDR. YouTube doesn't do anything but stereo audio and sometimes 3 channel (L/C/R) but won't do surrounds, 5.1, Atmos, etc. Fox Sports app will also do 4k HLG playback on the Fire Stick 4k.

If you want to stream local 4k HDR content with Atmos (Kodi, Plex) the nVidia Shield TV 4k 2019 version is the only device that does that (I'd get the Pro version). Plex is in the App Store and you have to manually set it to bitstream audio. You have to side-load and configure Kodi. The nVidia Shield TV 2019 does many other apps in 4k HDR Atmos too, but not as many as the Apple TV 4k.

Good luck!


----------



## AVTimme

jch2 said:


> You can use both at the same time. Auto Iris for dynamic blacks and highlights by scene, and manual iris dial-down to control light levels if eco isn't dark enough. I personally use high speed dynamic iris and no manual iris dial-down (I love brightness!). I love the black level and detail in dark scenes, but I also love the bright a vivid colors of bright scenes. Auto Iris you get both and you don't even notice the Iris pumping, except when it fades to black and then it looks like it is part of the fade.
> 
> I can't wait for iris-less pure direct three color modulated laser projection to come to home cinema. Then we'll finally get 1,000+ nits and perfect blacks using projection technology. There's already three color laser with color-wheel-less DLP, so we're getting there. The Epson 5050/6050 is still pretty awesome nonetheless. Much better picture than most movie theater projection systems.





Luminated67 said:


> Most professional calibrators don’t use Dynamic Iris regardless of the brand of projector. I’m sure from a professional perspective your shouldn’t be using it but I think it’s up to the individual, I happen to like it and don’t noticed the pumping unless it’s with the titles at the end of the film.



Sweet! This was my initial thought  I'll think Ill go with Auto Iris Thanks!


----------



## Schurter

How many people have 145 inch plus screen. 
What aspic ratio
How much gain

Can you share your setup 
How dose HDR look / perform on a screen this size.


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## termite

Jason Young said:


> Hi!
> I'm trying to use my new system, but having problems.
> 
> I have new:
> Epson 5050ub
> Yamaha rx-v385
> Mediabridge 91-02X-35B Ultra Series HDMI Cable - 35-Feet
> Google Chromecast Ultra
> Nintendo Switch
> 
> Chromecast plugged into HDMI1 and then H?DMI out of Yamaha to epson.
> First night everything ok.
> 
> I saw "Source: HDMI1 not supported" once or twice but it went away.
> 
> Then next morning this error kept happening more frequent.
> Now I cannot get a picture at all. (Just repeats that message)
> 
> I unplugged the 35' HDMI cable from the Yamaha, and plugged into my Mac-book Pro to to Epson. (Works perfect)
> I also tried plugging my Chromecast directly into the back of the Epson, again works fine.
> I also get the error with the Yamaha on the HDMI2 (where the Nintendo is plugged), "Source: HDMI2 not supported".
> 
> So: I feel like I have eliminated the 35' cable, and the Chromecast, and the Epson as the problem souirce.
> 
> This leaves just the Yamaha to blame.
> I don't know anything about the signals/standards and settings to give on the Yamaha. I'm still nw to all of this. Any help would surely be appreciated
> 
> Any ideas?


Make sure "4K Mode" is set to "Mode1" in the Advanced setup menu of Yamaha. (Page 87 of Yamaha manual)
Also make sure "EDID" setting on Epson set to "Expanded".

I don't have Chromecast but for my Firestick 4K connected to my Yamaha RX-A3060 to pass full 4K 10b HDR to Epson correctly, I needed those 2 settings.


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## Jason Young

*Resolved*

Reporting back that switching to the optical cable looks to have resolved the issue. 
Family was able to watch movies this weekend with new cable and CC Ultra. 

Jut wanted to say thanks for the help!


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## Jason Young

termite said:


> Make sure "4K Mode" is set to "Mode1" in the Advanced setup menu of Yamaha. (Page 87 of Yamaha manual)
> Also make sure "EDID" setting on Epson set to "Expanded".
> 
> I don't have Chromecast but for my Firestick 4K connected to my Yamaha RX-A3060 to pass full 4K 10b HDR to Epson correctly, I needed those 2 settings.


Thanks, I will check this too.


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## skylarlove1999

Jason Young said:


> Reporting back that switching to the optical cable looks to have resolved the issue.
> 
> Family was able to watch movies this weekend with new cable and CC Ultra.
> 
> 
> 
> Jut wanted to say thanks for the help!


Glad to hear you and your family We're able to enjoy movies this weekend.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## DavidinGA

Schurter said:


> How many people have 145 inch plus screen.
> What aspic ratio
> How much gain
> 
> Can you share your setup
> How dose HDR look / perform on a screen this size.


150"
16:9
1.1 gain

Running a 5040 in medium lamp with a htpc and MadVR. HDR looks amazing and very bright thanks to madvr. Without madVR, I would caution against going with a big screen for hdr though; it'll be very dim and you'll definitely have to run high lamp (noisy!). 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## DarrinH

150" AT screen from Silverticket. 1.78:1 1.1 gain. 5050 is plenty bright. First pic is before screen material was applied to the frame. No ambient light.


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## Luminated67

Jason Young said:


> Reporting back that switching to the optical cable looks to have resolved the issue.
> Family was able to watch movies this weekend with new cable and CC Ultra.
> 
> Jut wanted to say thanks for the help!


Glad we could help. The important thing is it’s resolved and you are enjoying your projector at its optimum.


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## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> 150" AT screen from Silverticket. 1.78:1 1.1 gain. 5050 is plenty bright. First pic is before screen material was applied to the frame. No ambient light.


Nice setup!! Looks amazing!!

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## biglen

DarrinH said:


> 150" AT screen from Silverticket. 1.78:1 1.1 gain. 5050 is plenty bright. First pic is before screen material was applied to the frame. No ambient light.


I'd run about 4ft of velvet on that ceiling. I'd bet you'll get better contrast, since that white ceiling is reflective. Just wrap some velvet around some 1/8" plywood, making a panel, and pin nail it to the ceiling. 

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## AVTimme

Seems like most of you use auto iris on high speed

But what picture and lamp modes do you use?

Bright Cinema? Digital Cinema? ECO lamp? High lamp?


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## Dilema

Natural tuned with decreased brightness and gamma, MadVR Tone Mapping, High lamp. great picture.


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## AVTimme

Dilema said:


> Natural tuned with decreased brightness and gamma, MadVR Tone Mapping, High lamp. great picture.


Wish I could use that MadVR tone mapping :/


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## HTX^2steve

DarrinH said:


> 150" AT screen from Silverticket. 1.78:1 1.1 gain. 5050 is plenty bright. First pic is before screen material was applied to the frame. No ambient light.


Love the lawn chairs!


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## Luminated67

AVTimme said:


> Wish I could use that MadVR tone mapping :/


I must admit I have a spare PC sitting doing nothing that should be good enough to run MadVR but have been hunting YouTube to try and get my head round how it works.

Found this comparison and whilst the increase in colours is impressive compared to the samsung especially I was less impressive by what looks to me like quite a bit of black crush as well.


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## Dilema

You need powerful GPU (not cheap) to achieve best results.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> I must admit I have a spare PC sitting doing nothing that should be good enough to run MadVR but have been hunting YouTube to try and get my head round how it works.
> 
> 
> 
> Found this comparison and whilst the increase in colours is impressive compared to the samsung especially I was less impressive by what looks to me like quite a bit of black crush as well.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEURDyfolhs&t=522s


I was using a PC for awhile as a HTPC, but it seemed more of a pain in the ass, then what it was worth. I switched to a Shield TV, and it's been flawless. I could never see going back to a HTPC. Just my experience though. 

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## Hawkmarket

Dilema said:


> You need powerful GPU (not cheap) to achieve best results.


Without getting deep into the weeds and having to run over to another in depth thread, about how much out of pocket A-Z does one need to invest to have a quality MAD VR setup? I'm talking starting from scratch with no HTPC.


----------



## biglen

Hawkmarket said:


> Without getting deep into the weeds and having to run over to another in depth thread, about how much out of pocket A-Z does one need to invest to have a quality MAD VR setup? I'm talking starting from scratch with no HTPC.


If I had to guess, building one from scratch using parts from Microcenter, probably in the $800- $1000 range? Here's an example of one. If you don't need the Blu-ray drive, you'll save some money. 

https://techbuyersguru.com/1000-high-end-4k-home-theater-pc-build

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## Dilema

Building good HTPC just for DTM doesn’t make sense. It will be more that $1k for a nice one. Just GPU alone is around 1000 dollars. 

I use it for movies but also gaming and media Center music and internet. Thus it makes sense. 

Nvidia shield is nice but only for movies. If you would like to do anything else HTPC is no comparison.


----------



## wmdalford

Hey Guys. I am really new to home theater and have some questions. Not really sure who to ask so thought I would post here. Wife and I just bought our first house. We have a media room that is 19.7x20.9. Had the walls painted a dark color and we want to put in a projector. Did some research and it appears that Epson 5050 is perfect for us. The room does have some windows but really plan to use it only at night and will get some black out curtains to help. Will primarily use it for watching sports, movies, and occasionally some gaming. Was planning on getting a 135 ALR screen to help with the windows and also when we do watch sports there will be some lights on. First off wanted to make sure that I am not doing anything stupid to begin with by getting this projector and this ALR screen. Also the way the roof is situated I wanted to mount the projector to the wall. Found a monoprice mount that seemed good and wanted to see if anyone had any reviews on it or any other recommendations? Also want to hide the wires so will need a good length for them. Guessing around 40 ft. Heard I need to get optical hdmi at htat length? Is that correct or any recs on wires? Also as I said no past history with projectors. Are the settings easy to figure out to get the optimal settings? Reading this thread kind of has me overwhelmed about it. Any tips or help would be much appreciated.


----------



## DavidinGA

Dilema said:


> You need powerful GPU (not cheap) to achieve best results.


You can run madVR and enjoy the huge benefits of its dtm with a meager $150 gpu off eBay though...


----------



## noob00224

wmdalford said:


> Hey Guys. I am really new to home theater and have some questions. Not really sure who to ask so thought I would post here. Wife and I just bought our first house. We have a media room that is 19.7x20.9. Had the walls painted a dark color and we want to put in a projector. Did some research and it appears that Epson 5050 is perfect for us. The room does have some windows but really plan to use it only at night and will get some black out curtains to help. Will primarily use it for watching sports, movies, and occasionally some gaming. Was planning on getting a 135 ALR screen to help with the windows and also when we do watch sports there will be some lights on. First off wanted to make sure that I am not doing anything stupid to begin with by getting this projector and this ALR screen. Also the way the roof is situated I wanted to mount the projector to the wall. Found a monoprice mount that seemed good and wanted to see if anyone had any reviews on it or any other recommendations? Also want to hide the wires so will need a good length for them. Guessing around 40 ft. Heard I need to get optical hdmi at htat length? Is that correct or any recs on wires? Also as I said no past history with projectors. Are the settings easy to figure out to get the optimal settings? Reading this thread kind of has me overwhelmed about it. Any tips or help would be much appreciated.


What color are the walls?

Can the room be treated for reflections?

How much ambient light will there be during the sports viewing sessions?

What is the ALR screen and how far away can the projector be placed?

Seating distance? 

Since I don't believe you've ever had a projector setup before, it's not wise to choose a screen size (or a screen ) before using the projector on a wall for a few weeks.


----------



## DavidinGA

Hawkmarket said:


> Without getting deep into the weeds and having to run over to another in depth thread, about how much out of pocket A-Z does one need to invest to have a quality MAD VR setup? I'm talking starting from scratch with no HTPC.


I'm not sure what these other guys are smoking, but you can grab a brand new run of the mill desktop tower for $400 (doesn't need to be anything amazing as the GPU does all the work) add a GPU off ebay for $150 and then you may need to upgrade the power supply in that $400 pc to make use of the GPU so thats another $50 for a psu, so $700 tops for a capable madVR ready htpc.

You can definitely do that even cheaper if you have an old pc sitting around or don't mind grabbing something used off eBay or local. You should very easily be able to piece together a capable setup for less than $500 if you shop wisely.

The budget $150 gpu will not be able to make use of some of the more demanding settings on madVR, but it will still be leaps and bounds better than any other tone mapping options out there.


----------



## wmdalford

noob00224 said:


> What color are the walls?
> 
> Can the room be treated for reflections?
> 
> How much ambient light will there be during the sports viewing sessions?
> 
> What is the ALR screen and how far away can the projector be placed?
> 
> Seating distance?
> 
> Since I don't believe you've ever had a projector setup before, it's not wise to choose a screen size (or a screen ) before using the projector on a wall for a few weeks.


So Walls are Dark Navy with flat paint so there wont be much reflection. The ceiling is white so was thinking about putting up some velvet eventually to help with that reflection. And unsure of what you mean by treat for reflections? Up to do whatever though. 



As far as ambient light during sports. I don't there will be a ton. The lights will be dimmed and will get black out curtains for the windows. The primary reason will be night time movie watching and TV which we would obviously have the black out curtains down and lights off. 


Was going to put the couch all the way back to the wall so close to 19 ft. Would mount the projector to the back wall as well. 


I think that is a good idea regarding the projector. Might buy it and get it mounted and set for 135 to see if that's too big and can move down to 120 or so if needed before buying the screen. Might not be optimal but want it as big as possible. Was going to buy an Elite ALR Cinegrey 3D screen. Trying to keep this under $3500. if possible bc I will also be buy all new speakers and AVR as well.


----------



## noob00224

wmdalford said:


> So Walls are Dark Navy with flat paint so there wont be much reflection. The ceiling is white so was thinking about putting up some velvet eventually to help with that reflection. And unsure of what you mean by treat for reflections? Up to do whatever though.
> 
> 
> 
> As far as ambient light during sports. I don't there will be a ton. The lights will be dimmed and will get black out curtains for the windows. The primary reason will be night time movie watching and TV which we would obviously have the black out curtains down and lights off.
> 
> 
> Was going to put the couch all the way back to the wall so close to 19 ft. Would mount the projector to the back wall as well.
> 
> 
> I think that is a good idea regarding the projector. Might buy it and get it mounted and set for 135 to see if that's too big and can move down to 120 or so if needed before buying the screen. Might not be optimal but want it as big as possible. Was going to buy an Elite ALR Cinegrey 3D screen. Trying to keep this under $3500. if possible bc I will also be buy all new speakers and AVR as well.


A very general rule is 10-12" in diagonal for every foot in distance. With 19' that would be from 190" to 228". 

While this is a general ratio, 135" from 19' is rather small.

The 5050UB does not have the lumens for an 190" screen. 

If the seating position can't be changed, than a projector with a lot more lumens is required.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Using the zoom means loosing brightness. From 100% zoom to 0% the light loss is ~27%.

You might also want to place the projector away from the seating area to alleviate noise.

It's a very good idea to treat the ceiling, with dark paint or dark fabrics. 
Example on effect of reflections on black level:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/

If the ambient light is not too much and, is in the form of canned lights that don't hit the screen directly, and are placed in the seating area and not the projector area, a simple white screen could be used. 

Paints are a good option, either on a smooth wall or white PVC screen.


----------



## Luminated67

^ There’s lots of reasons why you wouldn’t want your sitting either so far away or against the back wall. For a start as already mentioned viewing distance of 1 foot per 10-12” diagonal is the normal as it’s immersive enough for most people and from this distance your e-shift Epson will look as sharp and defined as any Native 4K machine and then there’s the sound, ideally you want a bit of distance between you and your surround speakers so they can give the impression of space that you will struggle to achieve with a sofa against the wall.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s4g38dmvv40g6rt/Photo 11-02-2020, 18 12 58.jpg?dl=0


----------



## Dilema

DavidinGA said:


> Hawkmarket said:
> 
> 
> 
> Without getting deep into the weeds and having to run over to another in depth thread, about how much out of pocket A-Z does one need to invest to have a quality MAD VR setup? I'm talking starting from scratch with no HTPC.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure what these other guys are smoking, but you can grab a brand new run of the mill desktop tower for $400 (doesn't need to be anything amazing as the GPU does all the work) add a GPU off ebay for $150 and then you may need to upgrade the power supply in that $400 pc to make use of the GPU so thats another $50 for a psu, so $700 tops for a capable madVR ready htpc.
> 
> You can definitely do that even cheaper if you have an old pc sitting around or don't mind grabbing something used off eBay or local. You should very easily be able to piece together a capable setup for less than $500 if you shop wisely.
> 
> The budget $150 gpu will not be able to make use of some of the more demanding settings on madVR, but it will still be leaps and bounds better than any other tone mapping options out there.
Click to expand...

Not sure about your miracles and you can try to make me enlightened but try to switch on hdr highlights processing some shadow processing and Some high quality chroma and card like RTX 2080 runs at 60%. Turn on one or two enhancements or increase chroma to very high and you run that card at 100%. 

Basic functionality ok you can get cheaper card. Higher quality well there are no shortcuts.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Dilema said:


> Not sure about your miracles and you can try to make me enlightened but try to switch on hdr highlights processing some shadow processing and Some high quality chroma and card like RTX 2080 runs at 60%. Turn on one or two enhancements or increase chroma to very high and you run that card at 100%.
> 
> Basic functionality ok you can get cheaper card. Higher quality well there are no shortcuts.


Is madVR only used with a disc player? I thought I remember reading it wasn't able to be used with a streaming device. Don't worry to take the thread too far off topic.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

Dilema said:


> Not sure about your miracles and you can try to make me enlightened but try to switch on hdr highlights processing some shadow processing and Some high quality chroma and card like RTX 2080 runs at 60%. Turn on one or two enhancements or increase chroma to very high and you run that card at 100%.
> 
> Basic functionality ok you can get cheaper card. Higher quality well there are no shortcuts.


Sure, but what I was getting at is that a budget card will run some decent madVR settings and will still provide a superior image to any other tone mapping options out there for the money.


----------



## audiophobe

I had no problems running MadVR on a 980M with default settings and HDR tone mapping, great picture and better than the studio's conversion (normal HD bluray) in many cases.

This is why I consider getting the older 9300(W)/6040, because I don't think I need the better tone mapping of the newer version.


----------



## noob00224

Dilema said:


> Not sure about your miracles and you can try to make me enlightened but try to switch on hdr highlights processing some shadow processing and Some high quality chroma and card like RTX 2080 runs at 60%. Turn on one or two enhancements or increase chroma to very high and you run that card at 100%.
> 
> Basic functionality ok you can get cheaper card. Higher quality well there are no shortcuts.


The main feature that improves HDR is the DTM itself, even without HSTM. Shadow recovery and chroma are subtle improvements. No one actually uses chroma upscaling on very high, and almost everyone can't see the difference between High and Very High.



skylarlove1999 said:


> Is madVR only used with a disc player? I thought I remember reading it wasn't able to be used with a streaming device. Don't worry to take the thread too far off topic.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



LE: If a disc can be played via a disc reader in a htpc depends on the video player, not madvr. If you can get past the disc protections, that is.

No streaming unless it's from a source that does not have protections (i.e. not Netflix). For Netlix like streaming services there's the madvr Envy.

Both the streaming and playing a disc are video player related
Anyway this is the madvr support thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2215490-madvr-player-support-thread-66.html

And the madvr DTM development thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...ving-madvr-hdr-sdr-mapping-projector-292.html

Latest DTM version:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...r-sdr-mapping-projector-286.html#post59127786


----------



## wmdalford

noob00224 said:


> A very general rule is 10-12" in diagonal for every foot in distance. With 19' that would be from 190" to 228".
> 
> While this is a general ratio, 135" from 19' is rather small.
> 
> The 5050UB does not have the lumens for an 190" screen.
> 
> If the seating position can't be changed, than a projector with a lot more lumens is required.
> 
> 
> 
> Using the zoom means loosing brightness. From 100% zoom to 0% the light loss is ~27%.
> 
> You might also want to place the projector away from the seating area to alleviate noise.
> 
> It's a very good idea to treat the ceiling, with dark paint or dark fabrics.
> Example on effect of reflections on black level:
> 
> If the ambient light is not too much and, is in the form of canned lights that don't hit the screen directly, and are placed in the seating area and not the projector area, a simple white screen could be used.
> 
> Paints are a good option, either on a smooth wall or white PVC screen.


That is a good suggestion and thought the screen would be too big at that distance. I definitely have the ability to move the couch up to 13 feet or however close I need it. Due to the way the wall is situated with the windows the 135 would be the biggest I could go. At that size it will be close to the ceiling and come down 2 feet off the ground. With moving the couch up and still wall mounting the projector on the back wall that would give us a couple feet of separation for the noise. Did not even consider the noise as a factor. That also gives me the opportunity for a 7.1 speaker set up and actually have rears. Anything else I need to consider? Really appreciate yalls help. Also, the lights wont be the can lights so I think I will want to go to the ALR screen just to be careful. any reason I shouldnt?


----------



## Dilema

DavidinGA said:


> Dilema said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure about your miracles and you can try to make me enlightened but try to switch on hdr highlights processing some shadow processing and Some high quality chroma and card like RTX 2080 runs at 60%. Turn on one or two enhancements or increase chroma to very high and you run that card at 100%.
> 
> Basic functionality ok you can get cheaper card. Higher quality well there are no shortcuts.
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, but what I was getting at is that a budget card will run some decent madVR settings and will still provide a superior image to any other tone mapping options out there for the money.
Click to expand...

If you put it this way I can’t agree more 🙂

But it is nice MadVR can utilise the high processing power if it happens you do have one. To be honest I would like to apply some random noise reduction which nicely can slightly decrease some grain but RTX2080 has not enough power. But that is an advanced option which is much more in the weeds. For start a GTX1060 will be enough.


----------



## noob00224

wmdalford said:


> That is a good suggestion and thought the screen would be too big at that distance. I definitely have the ability to move the couch up to 13 feet or however close I need it. Due to the way the wall is situated with the windows the 135 would be the biggest I could go. At that size it will be close to the ceiling and come down 2 feet off the ground. With moving the couch up and still wall mounting the projector on the back wall that would give us a couple feet of separation for the noise. Did not even consider the noise as a factor. That also gives me the opportunity for a 7.1 speaker set up and actually have rears. Anything else I need to consider? Really appreciate yalls help. Also, the lights wont be the can lights so I think I will want to go to the ALR screen just to be careful. any reason I shouldnt?


First project 135" on the wall and see at what distance the image looks best. Make sure to test with 2.35:1/cinemascope content (movies).

ALR screens are for when medium to high ambient light exists and can't be changed. Switching the lights is not that hard (?).

Angular ALR screens like the 3D require no light to come from the same direction as the projector. 

Budget ALR screens like the 3D can introduce various visual artifacts, which you may or may not notice. A white screen in a treated room is superior in terms of picture quality than an budget ALR screen in a non treated room (with the 5050UB at least).

Many ALR's require a longer throw in order to avoid visual artifacts like hotspots and sparkle. For the 3D the throw is 1.9x or higher. For an 135" 16:9 screen, that is 18.63'.
Placing it at that distance means the projector will loose around 13% of it's brightness.

The 3D has an actual gain of 0.6 to 0.8. This means that the light reflected back will be 60 to 80% of what is sent. As the lamp ages and for HDR, brightness is important.

The Cinegrey 5D has a 1.0 gain, which means it would have to be placed even further back.

ALR screens can also have a reduced viewing angle. The 3D has a half gain of 40 degrees, which means the brightness of the screen from 40 degrees (L/R) is half of what it is from the screens central axis.

It's my opinion that some ALR screens, like the 3D, raise the black level from what it would be with a grey screen of a similar shade and even a white screen.

Better quality ALR screens can be very expensive, easily exceed the cost of the projector.


In short, only get an ALR screen if you ABSOLUTELY have to. Can the lights, get a white screen, and spend the rest of the money on other theater related equipment.

How far away are the lights, and from what direction relative to the screen?


----------



## biglen

DavidinGA said:


> Sure, but what I was getting at is that a budget card will run some decent madVR settings and will still provide a superior image to any other tone mapping options out there for the money.


For $149 you can buy the Panasonic DP-UB420 that's on sale at BB, which does an amazing job with tone mapping. Why spend "$500" on a HTPC for tone mapping, when the Panasonic does a great job?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

biglen said:


> For $149 you can buy the Panasonic DP-UB420 that's on sale at BB, which does an amazing job with tone mapping. Why spend "$500" on a HTPC for tone mapping, when the Panasonic does a great job?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Because madvr analyzes each frame, it's dynamic. On projectors, only the latest generation of JVC can do that. The Panasonic and the 5050UB's DTM is static, takes the one value that is for the entire movie, and tone maps to that. The slider has to be adjusted manually.

Not only does madvr have other processing features, but has other enhancements for the HDR DTM feature, like highlight recovery (similar to added sharpness), shadow recovery, etc. The DTM feature is very customizable. You can even adjust the level of the HDR effect. The Panasonic is nice, but doesn't match up to madvr:


----------



## DarrinH

biglen said:


> I'd run about 4ft of velvet on that ceiling. I'd bet you'll get better contrast, since that white ceiling is reflective. Just wrap some velvet around some 1/8" plywood, making a panel, and pin nail it to the ceiling.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


OH YEAH, its on the list for the next project in the room.


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> Because madvr analyzes each frame, it's dynamic. On projectors, only the latest generation of JVC can do that. The Panasonic and the 5050UB's DTM is static, takes the one value that is for the entire movie, and tone maps to that. The slider has to be adjusted manually.
> 
> Not only does madvr have other processing features, but has other enhancements for the HDR DTM feature, like highlight recovery (similar to added sharpness), shadow recovery, etc. The DTM feature is very customizable. You can even adjust the level of the HDR effect. The Panasonic is nice, but doesn't match up to madvr:


I'd love to see a side by side, and see if the naked eye could tell the difference from the seating position. I'd find it hard to believe the naked eye could tell the difference between the Panasonic and madvr. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## DarrinH

AVTimme said:


> Seems like most of you use auto iris on high speed
> 
> But what picture and lamp modes do you use?
> 
> Bright Cinema? Digital Cinema? ECO lamp? High lamp?


I use Alaric's settings. Look good to me until I can kidnap a calibrator and haul them to WV.


----------



## noob00224

biglen said:


> I'd love to see a side by side, and see if the naked eye could tell the difference from the seating position. I'd find it hard to believe the naked eye could tell the difference between the Panasonic and madvr.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


It's not a sharpness situation where you have to be close enough to see it. You can be 30ft away from an 100" screen and clearly see it.
Just ask anyone who has seen static DTM vs dynamic.

I don't have a Panasonic UB, so I'm not sure who can make the comparison.


----------



## DavidinGA

biglen said:


> For $149 you can buy the Panasonic DP-UB420 that's on sale at BB, which does an amazing job with tone mapping. Why spend "$500" on a HTPC for tone mapping, when the Panasonic does a great job?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



@noob00224 Gave the better answer, so I'll just summarize with - that panasonic player is junk compared to what madVR does...


----------



## jeahrens

biglen said:


> I'd love to see a side by side, and see if the naked eye could tell the difference from the seating position. I'd find it hard to believe the naked eye could tell the difference between the Panasonic and madvr.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


JVC introduced Dynamic Tone Mapping (DTM) in the latest firmware for its NX series of projectors. It's been compared by several of us with the static tone mapping the Panasonic uses and it isn't close. Dynamic is far better. MadVR with a good graphics card will even exceed what the JVC solution offers.

I own a UB820 and an NX7, no question that dynamic produces a much better picture. HDR optimizer is off in my setup.


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## cky2354

I'm with biglen on this one, I just didn't spend all this money on the Epson 5050ub to build a HTPC to customize the videos every time I want to watch a movie. I need a simple solution. Set it and forget and put my movie in the player and push play. I'm sure with madvr, you can get some amazing picture but to my eye, I think Epson 5050ub is good enough for me. If I wanted to do that, I would have gotten a 5040ub or or older JVC and used madvr to push all my video content. I just purchased the Panasonic UB420 so that I can set HDR content to SDR with BT2020 and hopefully that will be good enough for me.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidinGA said:


> @noob00224 Gave the better answer, so I'll just summarize with - that panasonic player is junk compared to what madVR does...


The Panasonic player is good for what it does: static tone mapping of HDR. MadVR does a lot more to the video signal. The Dynamic Tone Mapping on the madVR noticeably improves the HDR. madVR Envy from the reviews of today's demonstration at ISE 2020 just took things to a ridiculously insane level for HDR performance. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## noob00224

cky2354 said:


> I'm with biglen on this one, I just didn't spend all this money on the Epson 5050ub to build a HTPC to customize the videos every time I want to watch a movie. I need a simple solution. Set it and forget and put my movie in the player and push play. I'm sure with madvr, you can get some amazing picture but to my eye, I think Epson 5050ub is good enough for me. If I wanted to do that, I would have gotten a 5040ub or or older JVC and used madvr to push all my video content. I just purchased the Panasonic UB420 so that I can set HDR content to SDR with BT2020 and hopefully that will be good enough for me.


You don't need to customize every movie, just set it once. Madvr can be automated in a lot of ways, not just HDR DTM.

It's like saying you just want to stick to 1080p SDR dual audio channel. Not saying you can't be happy with just that.


----------



## jeahrens

cky2354 said:


> I'm with biglen on this one, I just didn't spend all this money on the Epson 5050ub to build a HTPC to customize the videos every time I want to watch a movie. I need a simple solution. Set it and forget and put my movie in the player and push play. I'm sure with madvr, you can get some amazing picture but to my eye, I think Epson 5050ub is good enough for me. If I wanted to do that, I would have gotten a 5040ub or or older JVC and used madvr to push all my video content. I just purchased the Panasonic UB420 so that I can set HDR content to SDR with BT2020 and hopefully that will be good enough for me.


I completely get not wanting to deal with building and maintaining a HTPC (and getting your content to play properly on it). I'm just saying that as someone who's seen both, there is zero question that dynamic is much better.


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> The Panasonic player is good for what it does: static tone mapping of HDR. MadVR does a lot more to the video signal. The Dynamic Tone Mapping on the madVR noticeably improves the HDR. madVR Envy from the reviews of today's demonstration at ISE 2020 just took things to a ridiculously insane level for HDR performance.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Was that from the Pro or the commoner Envy? For what either of them cost it had better deliver a pretty spectacular visual experience.


----------



## gene4ht

cky2354 said:


> I'm with biglen on this one, I just didn't spend all this money on the Epson 5050ub to build a HTPC to customize the videos every time I want to watch a movie. I need a simple solution. Set it and forget and put my movie in the player and push play. I'm sure with madvr, you can get some amazing picture but to my eye, I think Epson 5050ub is good enough for me. If I wanted to do that, I would have gotten a 5040ub or or older JVC and used madvr to push all my video content. I just purchased the Panasonic UB420 so that I can set HDR content to SDR with BT2020 and hopefully that will be good enough for me.


Bottom line, projectors are not yet ready for HDR prime time...resulting in two schools of thoughts for performance...those who seek to maximize performance and those who desire acceptable plug and play performance. It appears Madvr is currently the acknowledged performance leader but comes at a cost of effort and $$$. At this point in my life, I’m in the camp of plug and play and can wait a generation or two until projectors can offer a built in complete solution for HDR.


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## blastermaster

jeahrens said:


> JVC introduced Dynamic Tone Mapping (DTM) in the latest firmware for its NX series of projectors. It's been compared by several of us with the static tone mapping the Panasonic uses and it isn't close. Dynamic is far better. MadVR with a good graphics card will even exceed what the JVC solution offers.
> 
> I own a UB820 and an NX7, no question that dynamic produces a much better picture. HDR optimizer is off in my setup.


I don't need to worry about it just yet as I STILL haven't upgraded to 4K, but just what kind of graphics card are we talking about here? I have a GeForce GTX 970 in my current rig. Time to upgrade?


----------



## biglen

gene4ht said:


> Bottom line, projectors are not yet ready for HDR prime time...resulting in two schools of thoughts for performance...those who seek to maximize performance and those who desire acceptable plug and play performance. It appears Madvr is currently the acknowledged performance leader but comes at a cost of effort and $$$. At this point in my life, I’m in the camp of plug and play and can wait a generation or two until projectors can offer a built in complete solution for HDR.


I agree. If I had an old PC laying around, and just needed to throw a good Video Card in it for MadVR, I'd probably give it a shot. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## ivanhoek

gene4ht said:


> Bottom line, projectors are not yet ready for HDR prime time...resulting in two schools of thoughts for performance...those who seek to maximize performance and those who desire acceptable plug and play performance. It appears Madvr is currently the acknowledged performance leader but comes at a cost of effort and $$$. At this point in my life, I’m in the camp of plug and play and can wait a generation or two until projectors can offer a built in complete solution for HDR.




For me, the complication lies in that they’ve tied HDR and WCG together. I understand projectors can’t really do HDR, but they can do WCG and I wish to benefit from that.

It just seems unnecessarily difficult to decouple those two unrelated things.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jeahrens

gene4ht said:


> Bottom line, projectors are not yet ready for HDR prime time...resulting in two schools of thoughts for performance...those who seek to maximize performance and those who desire acceptable plug and play performance. It appears Madvr is currently the acknowledged performance leader but comes at a cost of effort and $$$. At this point in my life, I’m in the camp of plug and play and can wait a generation or two until projectors can offer a built in complete solution for HDR.


While that holds true for most HT projectors, the JVC NX lineup and those using a Lumagen have a got a very plug and play solution. Granted these options aren't inexpensive (the NX5 does street close to the 6050 though).

If I had to guess you'll see other manufacturers try to emulate what JVC has done in future products. Especially Sony and Epson. You won't see MadVR level performance, but you'll see something much better than static tone mapping and very plug and play.


----------



## noob00224

blastermaster said:


> I don't need to worry about it just yet as I STILL haven't upgraded to 4K, but just what kind of graphics card are we talking about here? I have a GeForce GTX 970 in my current rig. Time to upgrade?


You don't need 4K for madvr HDR DTM. Works great with 1080p SDR. 

That card might work with just the DTM.


----------



## gene4ht

jeahrens said:


> While that holds true for most HT projectors, the JVC NX lineup and those using a Lumagen have a got a very plug and play solution. Granted these options aren't inexpensive (the NX5 does street close to the 6050 though).
> 
> *If I had to guess you'll see other manufacturers try to emulate what JVC has done in future products. Especially Sony and Epson. You won't see MadVR level performance, but you'll see something much better than static tone mapping and very plug and play.*


Agreed...that’s what I’m waiting for. When I buy a car, I expect to turn the key, step on the gas, and go...buying/installing after market items to improve performance is no longer desirable for me.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> Was that from the Pro or the commoner Envy? For what either of them cost it had better deliver a pretty spectacular visual experience.


It was the pro. Yes it is also an insane price but several industry professionals who are notoriously critical of high end equipment could not pick their jaws up off the floor. They were prepared not to be amazed as they put because they already own Lumagen Radiance Pro and they said the madVR Envy blew the Lumagen out of the water and the room was a white reflective mess. They were still blown away.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## rekbones

wmdalford said:


> Hey Guys. I am really new to home theater and have some questions. Not really sure who to ask so thought I would post here. Wife and I just bought our first house. We have a media room that is 19.7x20.9. Had the walls painted a dark color and we want to put in a projector. Did some research and it appears that Epson 5050 is perfect for us. The room does have some windows but really plan to use it only at night and will get some black out curtains to help. Will primarily use it for watching sports, movies, and occasionally some gaming. Was planning on getting a 135 ALR screen to help with the windows and also when we do watch sports there will be some lights on. First off wanted to make sure that I am not doing anything stupid to begin with by getting this projector and this ALR screen. Also the way the roof is situated I wanted to mount the projector to the wall. Found a monoprice mount that seemed good and wanted to see if anyone had any reviews on it or any other recommendations? Also want to hide the wires so will need a good length for them. Guessing around 40 ft. Heard I need to get optical hdmi at htat length? Is that correct or any recs on wires? Also as I said no past history with projectors. Are the settings easy to figure out to get the optimal settings? Reading this thread kind of has me overwhelmed about it. Any tips or help would be much appreciated.


You really need to do your homework as it looks like you can have a really nice room there. There are many misconceptions for first time projector owners. First if you have the correct lighting and treat the room for reflections you can have a lot of ambient task lighting for sports viewing without affecting the picture. If you have uncontrolled ambient light and a reflective room the picture will be washed out regardless of the type of screen. You also need to put your AV components close to the projector not down front with the screen. The only long wire runs should be inexpensive speaker wire for your 3 front speakers. There are a lot of very inexpensive things you can do that will save you tons of $ on Band-Aids like an ALR screen. Post in the theater build section as there are many very talented people there to help.


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## biglen

I just noticed Frame Interpolation was grayed out. My Xfinity box is set to 1080p60, the Epson Image Processing is Fine, and EDID is Expanded. What am I missing here?

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## ivanhoek

biglen said:


> I just noticed Frame Interpolation was grayed out. My Xfinity box is set to 1080p60, the Epson Image Processing is Fine, and EDID is Expanded. What am I missing here?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




It only works for 1080p24


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## rekbones

As far as MadVR goes I am using just a 1050ti card and still get good results. HTPC/MadVR is only limited to locally saved video so it does have considerable limitations if your not ripping your disks. MadVR Envey at a MSRP of $10k for pro and $5.5K for basic is really way out of the price range for us struggling pay check to pay check making the UB420/UB820 a very good option.


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## ivanhoek

rekbones said:


> As far as MadVR goes I am using just a 1050ti card and still get good results. HTPC/MadVR is only limited to locally saved video so it does have considerable limitations if your not ripping your disks. MadVR Envey at a MSRP of $10k for pro and $5.5K for basic is really way out of the price range for us struggling pay check to pay check making the UB420/UB820 a very good option.




At that absurd price I’d rather buy a lumagen radiance pro and get a lot more flexibility.


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## biglen

ivanhoek said:


> It only works for 1080p24
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Hmmm, I had it working before when I had it set to 1080p60. My Xfinity box doesn't even have a choice for 1080p24. 

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## ivanhoek

biglen said:


> Hmmm, I had it working before when I had it set to 1080p60. My Xfinity box doesn't even have a choice for 1080p24.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H930020~faq-0000bcf-hc5050ub_ube?faq_cat=faq-8796127471692



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## biglen

ivanhoek said:


> https://epson.com/faq/SPT_V11H930020~faq-0000bcf-hc5050ub_ube?faq_cat=faq-8796127471692
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That's obviously not true. I now have it working, with 1080p60. I had to turn off 4k Enhancement.









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## ivanhoek

biglen said:


> That's obviously not true. I now have it working, with 1080p60. I had to turn off 4k Enhancement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




Good. Perhaps they never thought anyone would turn 4K enhancement off?

Anyway, good to know it works.


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## jch2

AVTimme said:


> Seems like most of you use auto iris on high speed
> 
> But what picture and lamp modes do you use?
> 
> Bright Cinema? Digital Cinema? ECO lamp? High lamp?


Yes, high speed auto-iris and no manual iris dial-down (I like brightness) for all content.

Bright Cinema and high lamp mode for sports parties with some lights on (like my recent Super Bowl party), for both SDR and 4k HDR, like the Super Bowl was broadcast on Fox this year. Most sports I get in SDR, but Bright Cinema (that doesn't use the Epson DCI-P3 color filter) worked just fine for HDR. It's the brightest mode that doesn't shift green (Dynamic is brighter but just looks like a green alien picture).

Natural with Medium lamp mode and auto-iris on high speed (default is off in Natural) for SDR and no ambient light at all. Not as bright as Bright Cinema but colors look more natural and seems to be hitting close to 29 fL / 100 nits for SDR, and auto-iris really helps with the shadow detail in dark scenes. The 6050 is so much better than my old Panasonic PT-AE8000U in dark scenes.

Digital Cinema with high lamp mode for HDR content. About as bright in high lamp mode and the loss from the DCI-P3 color filter as Natural with medium lamp mode and no color filter, but definitely improved color gamut over Natural. It looks to be around 100% of DCI-P3, but will know for sure in a few weeks. Unfortunately, nowhere near the 120fL / 400 nits needed for real HDR, so I have to rely on the HDR slider to compensate. Normally I run between setting 2-4 on the HDR slider, otherwise the image is just too dark, even with my Panasonic UB820 tone mapping on. Most 4k sources I use are streaming though, Netflix, VUDU, and Disney+ on an Apple TV 4k and Prime Video, YouTube, and Fox Sports on an Amazon Fire TV Stick 4k, and Plex on nVidia Shield TV Pro 2019 for local 4k HDR Atmos content (like Dolby Demos). So I can't get the benefit of the UB820 tone mapping on anything but discs (even Netflix on UB820 doesn't do Atmos audio so I can't use it for any streaming since I want the Atmos audio tracks from the streams, so have to use other streaming hardware).

I wouldn't be able to use high lamp mode without my setup where my projector is sealed off in another room. The 6050 fans are just too loud on high lamp mode and it's distracting in quiet scenes.

I have only done basic brightness and contrast calibration for SDR and HDR with the Spears and Munsil 4k UHD calibration disc. Gregg Loewen, a very well known professional calibrator, is flying out to Minnesota on March 1-3 to do a professional calibration on my projector and TVs (as well as some other people in the Twin Cities area that also requested he fly here). So, we'll see if I end up using different color and lamp modes going forward.


----------



## AVTimme

DarrinH said:


> I use Alaric's settings. Look good to me until I can kidnap a calibrator and haul them to WV.


Thanks! I’ll read it!


----------



## AVTimme

jeahrens said:


> While that holds true for most HT projectors, the JVC NX lineup and those using a Lumagen have a got a very plug and play solution. Granted these options aren't inexpensive (the NX5 does street close to the 6050 though).
> 
> If I had to guess you'll see other manufacturers try to emulate what JVC has done in future products. Especially Sony and Epson. You won't see MadVR level performance, but you'll see something much better than static tone mapping and very plug and play.


In Sweden the street price of the N5 is 7272 USD and the 6050ub is 2908 USD 
What is the difference in USA?


----------



## rekbones

The NX5 MSRP is $5999 us but many are advertising it for about $1K less. "B" stocks are rumored to be about equal to the 5050 MSRP ($2999). The 6050 is about $1K more then the 5050. The 5050 is also often discounted below MSRP.


----------



## noob00224

jch2 said:


> Yes, high speed auto-iris and no manual iris dial-down (I like brightness) for all content.
> 
> Bright Cinema and high lamp mode for sports parties with some lights on (like my recent Super Bowl party), for both SDR and 4k HDR, like the Super Bowl was broadcast on Fox this year. Most sports I get in SDR, but Bright Cinema (that doesn't use the Epson DCI-P3 color filter) worked just fine for HDR. It's the brightest mode that doesn't shift green (Dynamic is brighter but just looks like a green alien picture).


Have you tried this recommendation for Dynamic preset:

_However, there is an easy way to improve the picture quality without bothering with a professional calibration. In the onscreen menu, go to Image/Advanced/RGB and drop Offset G from 0 to -1.

_From the HC1440 review: https://www.projectorcentral.com/epson-home-cinema-1440-projector-review.htm


----------



## AVTimme

jch2 said:


> Yes, high speed auto-iris and no manual iris dial-down (I like brightness) for all content.
> 
> Bright Cinema and high lamp mode for sports parties with some lights on (like my recent Super Bowl party), for both SDR and 4k HDR, like the Super Bowl was broadcast on Fox this year. Most sports I get in SDR, but Bright Cinema (that doesn't use the Epson DCI-P3 color filter) worked just fine for HDR. It's the brightest mode that doesn't shift green (Dynamic is brighter but just looks like a green alien picture).
> 
> Natural with Medium lamp mode and auto-iris on high speed (default is off in Natural) for SDR and no ambient light at all. Not as bright as Bright Cinema but colors look more natural and seems to be hitting close to 29 fL / 100 nits for SDR, and auto-iris really helps with the shadow detail in dark scenes. The 6050 is so much better than my old Panasonic PT-AE8000U in dark scenes.
> 
> Digital Cinema with high lamp mode for HDR content. About as bright in high lamp mode and the loss from the DCI-P3 color filter as Natural with medium lamp mode and no color filter, but definitely improved color gamut over Natural. It looks to be around 100% of DCI-P3, but will know for sure in a few weeks. Unfortunately, nowhere near the 120fL / 400 nits needed for real HDR, so I have to rely on the HDR slider to compensate. Normally I run between setting 2-4 on the HDR slider, otherwise the image is just too dark, even with my Panasonic UB820 tone mapping on. Most 4k sources I use are streaming though, Netflix, VUDU, and Disney+ on an Apple TV 4k and Prime Video, YouTube, and Fox Sports on an Amazon Fire TV Stick 4k, and Plex on nVidia Shield TV Pro 2019 for local 4k HDR Atmos content (like Dolby Demos). So I can't get the benefit of the UB820 tone mapping on anything but discs (even Netflix on UB820 doesn't do Atmos audio so I can't use it for any streaming since I want the Atmos audio tracks from the streams, so have to use other streaming hardware).
> 
> I wouldn't be able to use high lamp mode without my setup where my projector is sealed off in another room. The 6050 fans are just too loud on high lamp mode and it's distracting in quiet scenes.
> 
> I have only done basic brightness and contrast calibration for SDR and HDR with the Spears and Munsil 4k UHD calibration disc. Gregg Loewen, a very well known professional calibrator, is flying out to Minnesota on March 1-3 to do a professional calibration on my projector and TVs (as well as some other people in the Twin Cities area that also requested he fly here). So, we'll see if I end up using different color and lamp modes going forward.


Thank you! I’ll definitely try doing the same my self! If it’s to loud with high lamp I’ll guess I’ll have to do with medium lamp


----------



## AVTimme

rekbones said:


> The NX5 MSRP is $5999 us but many are advertising it for about $1K less. "B" stocks are rumored to be about equal to the 5050 MSRP ($2999). The 6050 is about $1K more then the 5050. The 5050 is also often discounted below MSRP.


Quite a big difference still


----------



## Luminated67

Ok I’ve created a thread on what I need to build a MadVR PC. Those of you that have went down this rabbit hole please feel free to post as I will need all the help I can get.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...c-what-components-do-i-need.html#post59234030


----------



## DavidinGA

Luminated67 said:


> Ok I’ve created a thread on what I need to build a MadVR PC. Those of you that have went down this rabbit hole please feel free to post as I will need all the help I can get.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...c-what-components-do-i-need.html#post59234030



Invalid Thread specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator


----------



## rekbones

Luminated67 said:


> Ok I’ve created a thread on what I need to build a MadVR PC. Those of you that have went down this rabbit hole please feel free to post as I will need all the help I can get.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...c-what-components-do-i-need.html#post59234030


If all your going to do with the PC is play movies/w MadVR all you need is a good video card as the rest can be bare bones. I just upgraded mine with a Ryzen7 2700 cpu, AM4 mother board and 16GB of 3200 DDR4 
memory for under $250 and found a 250GB PCI SSD for $30. It's way overkill but I use it for everything else.

Here is a thread with all the info you need. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2364113-guide-building-4k-htpc-madvr.html just read the first post.


----------



## jeahrens

AVTimme said:


> Quite a big difference still


Depends. For that extra ~15% (vs 6050) you are getting great dynamic tone mapping, native 4K panel, better optics and about 5 times more native contrast. The Epson does have an advantage that the high bulb setting delivers more light output (medium on the Epson and high on the JVC are roughly the same) and it has the expanded color filter that can be used on small screens. 

Have seen several 5040's and the local 5050 if I was in the market for the 6050 and didn't need the extra lumens for a very large screen, the NX5 would be a better choice IMO. The 5050's pricing makes it a much trickier proposition.

(this is US pricing)


----------



## wmdalford

rekbones said:


> You really need to do your homework as it looks like you can have a really nice room there. There are many misconceptions for first time projector owners. First if you have the correct lighting and treat the room for reflections you can have a lot of ambient task lighting for sports viewing without affecting the picture. If you have uncontrolled ambient light and a reflective room the picture will be washed out regardless of the type of screen. You also need to put your AV components close to the projector not down front with the screen. The only long wire runs should be inexpensive speaker wire for your 3 front speakers. There are a lot of very inexpensive things you can do that will save you tons of $ on Band-Aids like an ALR screen. Post in the theater build section as there are many very talented people there to help.



It looks like I have been looking at my room wrong all along. Seems like now Ill just flip which wall the screen and projector were going on. Now I can have all my equipment like AVR, Xbox, Cable Box and what not on the same side as the projector only a couple feet away. Then like you said would just need to run 3 speaker wires to the Front 3. Well maybe 5 wires so I can put two heights up there as well. Would you recommend ALR screen or should I just go with a cheaper white screen?


----------



## wmdalford

noob00224 said:


> First project 135" on the wall and see at what distance the image looks best. Make sure to test with 2.35:1/cinemascope content (movies).
> 
> ALR screens are for when medium to high ambient light exists and can't be changed. Switching the lights is not that hard (?).
> 
> Angular ALR screens like the 3D require no light to come from the same direction as the projector.
> 
> Budget ALR screens like the 3D can introduce various visual artifacts, which you may or may not notice. A white screen in a treated room is superior in terms of picture quality than an budget ALR screen in a non treated room (with the 5050UB at least).
> 
> Many ALR's require a longer throw in order to avoid visual artifacts like hotspots and sparkle. For the 3D the throw is 1.9x or higher. For an 135" 16:9 screen, that is 18.63'.
> Placing it at that distance means the projector will loose around 13% of it's brightness.
> 
> The 3D has an actual gain of 0.6 to 0.8. This means that the light reflected back will be 60 to 80% of what is sent. As the lamp ages and for HDR, brightness is important.
> 
> The Cinegrey 5D has a 1.0 gain, which means it would have to be placed even further back.
> 
> ALR screens can also have a reduced viewing angle. The 3D has a half gain of 40 degrees, which means the brightness of the screen from 40 degrees (L/R) is half of what it is from the screens central axis.
> 
> It's my opinion that some ALR screens, like the 3D, raise the black level from what it would be with a grey screen of a similar shade and even a white screen.
> 
> Better quality ALR screens can be very expensive, easily exceed the cost of the projector.
> 
> 
> In short, only get an ALR screen if you ABSOLUTELY have to. Can the lights, get a white screen, and spend the rest of the money on other theater related equipment.
> 
> How far away are the lights, and from what direction relative to the screen?





Well appears i didn't know what canned lights were. That is what is up there now. There is about 12 of them with 3 rows of 4. The middle part of the ceiling is higher and that where they are located and will be higher then screen and projector. Like I said before they do dim really well. So looks like you have me convinced to do a regular cheaper white screen. Just dim the light or have them off and get some good black out curtains! 

last question do you think it would be okay to have this projector mounted on the back wall and not the ceiling 19 ft away? or should I push to get it on the ceiling? I am planning on doing the135 screen. Thanks for your help


----------



## noob00224

wmdalford said:


> Well appears i didn't know what canned lights were. That is what is up there now. There is about 12 of them with 3 rows of 4. The middle part of the ceiling is higher and that where they are located and will be higher then screen and projector. Like I said before they do dim really well. So looks like you have me convinced to do a regular cheaper white screen. Just dim the light or have them off and get some good black out curtains!
> 
> last question do you think it would be okay to have this projector mounted on the back wall and not the ceiling 19 ft away? or should I push to get it on the ceiling? I am planning on doing the135 screen. Thanks for your help


Should have said recessed lights. 

With alr screes no light must come from the same direction as the projector. ALR screens are like a mirror, they will reflect light coming from one side to the other (which is partially how they help with ambient light), but if the light is from the same direction as the projector, it will be reflected back (towards the audience). 

This is less of an issue if when using the lights the broadcast is bright, like a sports game.

Placing the projector at 19' with an 135" ALR screen will likely eliminate all visual artifacts. Placing it at that distance would mean an ~14% brightness loss versus it being placed as close to the screen as possible.
This calculator shows where the projector would be relative to the screen. At the bottom of the page there is a section called Lens shift. After inputting the diagonal of the screen, it should show up to 63" vertical shift. This means the center of the lens can be placed as much as 63" upwards from the height of the center of the screen.
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

For ALR screens the beam would have to be at an angle, so from the projector it would hit the screen and reflect at the same angle but downwards towards the viewer. Roughly.

If the ALR screen is ~1.0 gain (Cinegrey 5D), the 5050UB is bright enough for SDR and HDR, unless the DCI P3 filter is enabled which reduces the brightness by ~50%. Without the filter the 5050UB covers ~87% of the DCI P3 color gamut, and 100% or over with it on. Some users prefer to have brightness over the ~13% of the color gamut.
A white screen will have ~1.0 gain.

ALR screens can reject light coming from the the sides and from below/above differently. For example the 5D has a horizontal 80 degree half gain, which means has average/good side rejection. There is no review/measurement on what the vertical rejection is. Since one of the main reasons to get an ALR screen is the white ceiling, it's unknown how much an 3D/5D would help.

As I mentioned in the previous post it's my opinion that some of these budget ALR screens might have raised black levels when compared to a grey screen of the same shade or even possibly a white screen.

I don't know if the reduced viewing angle as described in the previous post is an issue.

Painting/treating the ceiling and getting a white screen would be the simplest way forward. The lights, even if they hit the screen directly, if they are dimmed should be fine. Recessed would be better.

In this budget, there are three other ALR fabrics other than the 3D and 5D. Two types of Carl's ALR with a claimed gain of 1.5 (unknown real gain), and the XY screens Black Crystal 2.0 gain. The higher the gain the further back the projector would need to be placed at. I don't know at what distance the XY screen with the 2.0 gain would need to be placed to avoid any visual artifacts. The XY screen is also only available from China.

Example of screen with Carl's ALR, unknown projector distance:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2333145-carl-s-place-alr-review.html

Some fabrics like Carl's are only available in tube form, a wooden frame has to be build. If you want to keep the costs down the other ALR fabrics can be purchased for under $200.

I'm not saying ALR screens are bad (I have a Cinegrey 3D), but the right material must be chosen for the application.

Samples are available (can't find the XY sample page):
https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/material-samples
https://www.carlofet.com/shop/carls-sample-pack
https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-Popular-Projection-Materials/dp/B01E9LMJCC


----------



## biglen

AVTimme said:


> Seems like most of you use auto iris on high speed
> 
> 
> 
> But what picture and lamp modes do you use?
> 
> 
> 
> Bright Cinema? Digital Cinema? ECO lamp? High lamp?


I had a very reputable professional calibrator, calibrate my 5050. I checked all the settings he made for me, and they all have Auto Iris turned off. My movie room is pitch black, with no windows. I'm guessing that's why it might be turned off in my setup?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

biglen said:


> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like most of you use auto iris on high speed
> 
> 
> 
> But what picture and lamp modes do you use?
> 
> 
> 
> Bright Cinema? Digital Cinema? ECO lamp? High lamp?
> 
> 
> 
> I had a very reputable professional calibrator, calibrate my 5050. I checked all the settings he made for me, and they all have Auto Iris turned off. My movie room is pitch black, with no windows. I'm guessing that's why it might be turned off in my setup?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Probably because calibrating with it on is difficult to do (or impossible to get a good calibration with the Iris in operation and variable). And most professional calibrators just turn it off by default when calibrating. If you turn it back on, you'll get much better shadow detail in dark scenes (the full power of the lamp can be used to render a much smaller luminance range so you get better shadow detail), but might lose a little bit of grayscale accuracy.

-J.C.


----------



## biglen

jch2 said:


> Probably because calibrating with it on is difficult to do (or impossible to get a good calibration with the Iris in operation and variable). And most professional calibrators just turn it off by default when calibrating. If you turn it back on, you'll get much better shadow detail in dark scenes (the full power of the lamp can be used to render a much smaller luminance range so you get better shadow detail), but might lose a little bit of grayscale accuracy.
> 
> -J.C.


So you suggest I enable Auto Iris with High Speed in all my Memory settings?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

biglen said:


> So you suggest I enable Auto Iris with High Speed in all my Memory settings?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




I would.. it’s one of the reasons you’ve paid extra for this projector.

For example, in the Sony line, they don’t give you a dynamic iris until their higher end units.. it’s a high end feature.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## AVTimme

jeahrens said:


> Depends. For that extra ~15% (vs 6050) you are getting great dynamic tone mapping, native 4K panel, better optics and about 5 times more native contrast. The Epson does have an advantage that the high bulb setting delivers more light output (medium on the Epson and high on the JVC are roughly the same) and it has the expanded color filter that can be used on small screens.
> 
> Have seen several 5040's and the local 5050 if I was in the market for the 6050 and didn't need the extra lumens for a very large screen, the NX5 would be a better choice IMO. The 5050's pricing makes it a much trickier proposition.
> 
> (this is US pricing)


Is the N5 only 15% more then the 6050 in US? It’s more then Double the price here :/ it’s weird that the JVCs are so frikkin expensive here

The NX9 costs 20 634 USD Here, I guess it’s not that expensive in US?


----------



## AVTimme

ivanhoek said:


> I would.. it’s one of the reasons you’ve paid extra for this projector.
> 
> For example, in the Sony line, they don’t give you a dynamic iris until their higher end units.. it’s a high end feature.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Sweet! Now I just want this unit even more! I guess Epson really hit jackpot with this one


----------



## noob00224

AVTimme said:


> Is the N5 only 15% more then the 6050 in US? It’s more then Double the price here :/ it’s weird that the JVCs are so frikkin expensive here
> 
> The NX9 costs 20 634 USD Here, I guess it’s not that expensive in US?


As a consequence the used market is smaller and also higher price.


----------



## jch2

AVTimme said:


> Is the NX5 only 15% more then the 6050 in US? Itâ€™️s more then Double the price here 😕 itâ€™️s weird that the JVCs are so frikkin expensive here
> 
> The NX9 costs 20 634 USD Here, I guess itâ€™️s not that expensive in US?


Advertised price comparison between the NX5 and 6050UB, the NX5 is about 20% more expensive, yes. But you can call Epson Authorized dealers and generally get a better price on the 6050UB, usually just a little more than the normal advertised price of the 5050UB. PM me if you'd like more info on dealers and pricing. I only have US dealer contacts though.

The NX9 is a whole different beast than the NX5, usually around quadruple the price of the 5050UB.

Also, JVC replacement bulbs are 4 times more expensive than Epson bulbs. And the 6050UB in the US comes with an extra bulb, the best ceiling mount (Chief CHF4500), finished in black, a better lens, support for anamorphic lenses, and and extra year of warranty.


----------



## fredworld

jch2 said:


> Advertised price comparison between the NX5 and 6050UB, the NX5 is about 20% more expensive, yes. But you can call Epson Authorized dealers and generally get a better price on the 6050UB, usually just a little more than the normal advertised price of the 5050UB. PM me if you'd like more info on dealers and pricing. I only have US dealer contacts though.
> 
> The NX9 is a whole different beast than the NX5, usually around quadruple the price of the 5050UB.
> 
> Also, JVC replacement bulbs are 4 times more expensive than Epson bulbs. And the 6050UB in the US comes with an extra bulb, the best ceiling mount (Chief CHF4500), finished in black, a better lens, support for anamorphic lenses, and and extra year of warranty.



At the risk of sounding like the Forum Police, what does *"No Price Talk"* in the heading really mean?


----------



## AVTimme

jch2 said:


> Advertised price comparison between the NX5 and 6050UB, the NX5 is about 20% more expensive, yes. But you can call Epson Authorized dealers and generally get a better price on the 6050UB, usually just a little more than the normal advertised price of the 5050UB. PM me if you'd like more info on dealers and pricing. I only have US dealer contacts though.
> 
> The NX9 is a whole different beast than the NX5, usually around quadruple the price of the 5050UB.
> 
> Also, JVC replacement bulbs are 4 times more expensive than Epson bulbs. And the 6050UB in the US comes with an extra bulb, the best ceiling mount (Chief CHF4500), finished in black, a better lens, support for anamorphic lenses, and and extra year of warranty.


The Epson is the clear value choice. It seems like nothing comes close to it  

But I haven't seen a comparison between them in person other then the one made by TV specialists 
https://www.tvspecialists.com/jvc-dla-nx7-vs-epson-pro-cinema-6050ub-vs-tvs-pro-theo-z65-part-ii/

Judging by this comparison I think that the 6050UB seems better then the NX7


----------



## jch2

fredworld said:


> At the risk of sounding like the Forum Police, what does "No Price Talk" in the heading really mean?


It's okay to ask questions about what "No Price Talk" means, it comes up a lot on AVSForum.

On AVSForum, "No Price Talk" generally means don't post actual prices and/or price quotes and seller info (i.e. no advertising and no price wars). So, don't post something like: I got/can get X for $Y from Z.

Comparing relative pricing and features between different products is critical in AV component comparisons. Discussion of relative pricing (i.e. A costs 20% more than B) without posting actual prices and seller info, is generally allowed in AVSForum discussions. If someone oversteps and posts actual pricing and/or seller info, a moderator generally jumps in and edits or deletes a post and sends the user a warning.

Hope that helps!


----------



## gene4ht

fredworld said:


> At the risk of sounding like the Forum Police, what does *"No Price Talk"* in the heading really mean?





jch2 said:


> It's okay to ask questions about what "No Price Talk" means, it comes up a lot on AVSForum.
> 
> On AVSForum, "No Price Talk" generally means don't post actual prices and/or price quotes and seller info (i.e. no advertising and no price wars). So, don't post something like: I got/can get X for $Y from Z.
> 
> Comparing relative pricing and features between different products is critical in AV component comparisons. Discussion of relative pricing (i.e. A costs 20% more than B) without posting actual prices and seller info, is generally allowed in AVSForum discussions. If someone oversteps and posts actual pricing and/or seller info, a moderator generally jumps in and edits or deletes a post and sends the user a warning.
> 
> Hope that helps!


Generally speaking, jch2’s comments/assessment is on the money. However, I’ll add one caveat: Enforcement of this rule/guideline is sometimes inconsistent. It can and does vary from thread to thread and moderator to moderator. It’s best to observe the guidelines as they were meant to be.


----------



## ivanhoek

gene4ht said:


> Generally speaking, jch2’s comments/assessment is on the money. However, I’ll add one caveat: Enforcement of this rule/guideline is sometimes inconsistent. It can and does vary from thread to thread and moderator to moderator. It’s best to observe the guidelines as they were meant to be.


The sub-forum names are divided by price. We have a forum for projectors under $3000 and another for projectors above $3000. It would seem price is quite the important feature, in general terms... By posting in one forum vs another we've made a price determination...


----------



## Luminated67

wmdalford said:


> It looks like I have been looking at my room wrong all along. Seems like now Ill just flip which wall the screen and projector were going on. Now I can have all my equipment like AVR, Xbox, Cable Box and what not on the same side as the projector only a couple feet away. Then like you said would just need to run 3 speaker wires to the Front 3. Well maybe 5 wires so I can put two heights up there as well. Would you recommend ALR screen or should I just go with a cheaper white screen?


ALR screens can be brilliant if your have the desired throw distance from projector lens to screen and angle of viewing, it’s called the sweet spot, just google search it and it will help you see if your setup is suitable.

If you intend to watch stuff with the (spot)lights on or the some ambient lighting then ALR is the way to go but if your room is properly light controlled with very dark walls and ceiling that are either matt painted or better still covered in anti-reflective velour stuff then ideally you want a white screen. But if you don’t intend to watch with lights on and your walls are light in colour then maybe a better option would be a traditional grey screen.


----------



## biglen

jch2 said:


> Yes, high speed auto-iris and no manual iris dial-down (I like brightness) for all content.
> 
> Bright Cinema and high lamp mode for sports parties with some lights on (like my recent Super Bowl party), for both SDR and 4k HDR, like the Super Bowl was broadcast on Fox this year. Most sports I get in SDR, but Bright Cinema (that doesn't use the Epson DCI-P3 color filter) worked just fine for HDR. It's the brightest mode that doesn't shift green (Dynamic is brighter but just looks like a green alien picture).
> 
> Natural with Medium lamp mode and auto-iris on high speed (default is off in Natural) for SDR and no ambient light at all. Not as bright as Bright Cinema but colors look more natural and seems to be hitting close to 29 fL / 100 nits for SDR, and auto-iris really helps with the shadow detail in dark scenes. The 6050 is so much better than my old Panasonic PT-AE8000U in dark scenes.
> 
> Digital Cinema with high lamp mode for HDR content. About as bright in high lamp mode and the loss from the DCI-P3 color filter as Natural with medium lamp mode and no color filter, but definitely improved color gamut over Natural. It looks to be around 100% of DCI-P3, but will know for sure in a few weeks. Unfortunately, nowhere near the 120fL / 400 nits needed for real HDR, so I have to rely on the HDR slider to compensate. Normally I run between setting 2-4 on the HDR slider, otherwise the image is just too dark, even with my Panasonic UB820 tone mapping on. Most 4k sources I use are streaming though, Netflix, VUDU, and Disney+ on an Apple TV 4k and Prime Video, YouTube, and Fox Sports on an Amazon Fire TV Stick 4k, and Plex on nVidia Shield TV Pro 2019 for local 4k HDR Atmos content (like Dolby Demos). So I can't get the benefit of the UB820 tone mapping on anything but discs (even Netflix on UB820 doesn't do Atmos audio so I can't use it for any streaming since I want the Atmos audio tracks from the streams, so have to use other streaming hardware).
> 
> I wouldn't be able to use high lamp mode without my setup where my projector is sealed off in another room. The 6050 fans are just too loud on high lamp mode and it's distracting in quiet scenes.
> 
> I have only done basic brightness and contrast calibration for SDR and HDR with the Spears and Munsil 4k UHD calibration disc. Gregg Loewen, a very well known professional calibrator, is flying out to Minnesota on March 1-3 to do a professional calibration on my projector and TVs (as well as some other people in the Twin Cities area that also requested he fly here). So, we'll see if I end up using different color and lamp modes going forward.


What do you mean by no manual iris dial-down?

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## jeahrens

AVTimme said:


> Is the N5 only 15% more then the 6050 in US? It’s more then Double the price here :/ it’s weird that the JVCs are so frikkin expensive here
> 
> The NX9 costs 20 634 USD Here, I guess it’s not that expensive in US?


I can't discuss street pricing, but yes the NX5 can be had for about that premium over the 6050.


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## jch2

biglen said:


> What do you mean by no manual iris dial-down?


The iris can be controlled two different ways.

Auto iris is a setting that allows the projector to vary the iris setting automatically based on the maximum brightness of a frame / scene.

Manual iris is a setting where you can manually partially close the iris. Sometimes called manual iris dial-down because you are manually dialing down the light in case the lamp mode (generally lamp mode Eco) is still too bright. I love brightness and will never manually dial-down the iris.

You can use both at the same time, in which case the manual setting controls the maximum the automatic iris function will open the iris too.

Hope that helps.

-J.C.


----------



## gene4ht

jeahrens said:


> *I can't discuss street pricing*, but yes the NX5 can be had for about that premium over the 6050.


Nor the caucus! Sorry...couldn’t resist!


----------



## biglen

jch2 said:


> The iris can be controlled two different ways.
> 
> Auto iris is a setting that allows the projector to vary the iris setting automatically based on the maximum brightness of a frame / scene.
> 
> Manual iris is a setting where you can manually partially close the iris. Sometimes called manual iris dial-down because you are manually dialing down the light in case the lamp mode (generally lamp mode Eco) is still too bright. I love brightness and will never manually dial-down the iris.
> 
> You can use both at the same time, in which case the manual setting controls the maximum the automatic iris function will open the iris too.
> 
> Hope that helps.
> 
> -J.C.


I emailed the guy who calibrated my 5050. He said he leaves the Auto Iris off when he does calibrations, because it messes up the gamma. 

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## jch2

biglen said:


> I emailed the guy who calibrated my 5050. He said he leaves the Auto Iris off when he does calibrations, because it messes up the gamma.


It can, to some degree, mess with the gamma, since the projector will vary how dark the LCD screens get based upon the current value of the iris. It keeps the two in-sync but it isn't perfect. There will be slight variations in gamma with it on. The best way is to actually calibrate with the auto iris on, that way, for whichever of the each 8 steps of gray level (varying brightness, with 8 being brightest and will have the iris wide open, and 1 being darkest, which will have the iris mostly closed) you are calibrating for, you will be able to set the gray level appropriately. But even then, it won't be perfect, but close.

Basically, it works like this: the LCD has a 10-bit precision (or possibly 8-bit with 10-bit dithering, hard to know these days what's actually in an LCD), so it can display 1024 levels of gray for each pixel, where 1023 is the maximum brightness and 0 is the minimum brightness. 

With auto-iris off, the projector will attempt to produce the proper level brightness through using the LCD only. So, to produce an image with a maximum brightness of 50%, the LCD can only use half it's range, 0-511, and the black levels will be elevated. And you are stuck with the limits of the LCD panel's native contrast ability. A fully closed LCD pixel actually still lets a lot of light pass through, making blacks more gray.

With auto-iris on, the projector will attempt to produce the proper gray level brightness through changing the iris setting and varying the values of the pixels that are in the LCD. So, to reproduce an image with maximum of 50% brightness, instead of using the LCD screen between 0-511 (50% of the range of the LCD, leading to lost detail) the iris will close down automatically to let 50% of the light through and give you 1024 levels of gray from the LCD between black and 50% gray, giving you better detail. It really starts to matter in very dark scenes, like peak of 20% of maximum brightness, where instead of having only 205 shades of color available with a very elevated black floor, you can get 1024 shades available and the black floor will be much better. Episodes like the finale of Game of Thrones, which were so dark, all the details are lost except on the best of TVs (like OLEDs) or projectors with automatic irises, that reproduce a good black floor and can reproduce a lot of detail with the dark scene. My Epson 6050UB is so much better in dark scenes with it's auto-iris ability than the projector it replaced, a Panasonic PT-AE8000U that had only an 8-bit LCD panel and no iris.

So, you can turn it back on after calibration anyway. With auto iris on the picture quality loss because of lost gamma accuracy is more than made up for by much better blacks and much better shadow detail. To can always turn it on and see for yourself. If you don't like it, you can always turn it back off.


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## HTX^2steve

gene4ht said:


> Generally speaking, jch2’s comments/assessment is on the money. However, I’ll add one caveat: Enforcement of this rule/guideline is sometimes inconsistent. It can and does vary from thread to thread and moderator to moderator. It’s best to observe the guidelines as they were meant to be.


Love my Epson...Just my $.02 cents! Whoops....


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## biglen

jch2 said:


> It can, to some degree, mess with the gamma, since the projector will vary how dark the LCD screens get based upon the current value of the iris. It keeps the two in-sync but it isn't perfect. There will be slight variations in gamma with it on. The best way is to actually calibrate with the auto iris on, that way, for whichever of the each 8 steps of gray level (varying brightness, with 8 being brightest and will have the iris wide open, and 1 being darkest, which will have the iris mostly closed) you are calibrating for, you will be able to set the gray level appropriately. But even then, it won't be perfect, but close.
> 
> Basically, it works like this: the LCD has a 10-bit precision (or possibly 8-bit with 10-bit dithering, hard to know these days what's actually in an LCD), so it can display 1024 levels of gray for each pixel, where 1023 is the maximum brightness and 0 is the minimum brightness.
> 
> With auto-iris off, the projector will attempt to produce the proper level brightness through using the LCD only. So, to produce an image with a maximum brightness of 50%, the LCD can only use half it's range, 0-511, and the black levels will be elevated. And you are stuck with the limits of the LCD panel's native contrast ability. A fully closed LCD pixel actually still lets a lot of light pass through, making blacks more gray.
> 
> With auto-iris on, the projector will attempt to produce the proper gray level brightness through changing the iris setting and varying the values of the pixels that are in the LCD. So, to reproduce an image with maximum of 50% brightness, instead of using the LCD screen between 0-511 (50% of the range of the LCD, leading to lost detail) the iris will close down automatically to let 50% of the light through and give you 1024 levels of gray from the LCD between black and 50% gray, giving you better detail. It really starts to matter in very dark scenes, like peak of 20% of maximum brightness, where instead of having only 205 shades of color available with a very elevated black floor, you can get 1024 shades available and the black floor will be much better. Episodes like the finale of Game of Thrones, which were so dark, all the details are lost except on the best of TVs (like OLEDs) or projectors with automatic irises, that reproduce a good black floor and can reproduce a lot of detail with the dark scene. My Epson 6050UB is so much better in dark scenes with it's auto-iris ability than the projector it replaced, a Panasonic PT-AE8000U that had only an 8-bit LCD panel and no iris.
> 
> So, you can turn it back on after calibration anyway. With auto iris on the picture quality loss because of lost gamma accuracy is more than made up for by much better blacks and much better shadow detail. To can always turn it on and see for yourself. If you don't like it, you can always turn it back off.


I just tried turning it on. I don't see any difference when I turn it on. Should it be a noticable difference, or just very subtle?

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## jch2

biglen said:


> I just tried turning it on. I don't see any difference when I turn it on. Should it be a noticeable difference, or just very subtle?


On normal viewing and bright scenes, you shouldn't notice anything different: the auto-iris will be dialed wide open and produce exactly the same picture that you had your unit calibrated for. 

Where you will start to see a very big difference is in dark scenes. So, try out your favorite content with very dark scenes with and without high-speed auto-iris and see if you notice a difference in black levels and shadow detail. Viewing in a room as dark as you can get helps with being able to resolve actual black levels and shadow detail, so make sure your room is as dark as you can get it.

If you don't see any difference in dark scenes, it is possible your manual iris is already dialed-down a bit, the auto-iris may have too limited range to work with. So, check that your manual iris setting is set to zero (instead of some negative number).

Post back and share your results.


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## biglen

jch2 said:


> On normal viewing and bright scenes, you shouldn't notice anything different: the auto-iris will be dialed wide open and produce exactly the same picture that you had your unit calibrated for.
> 
> 
> 
> Where you will start to see a very big difference is in dark scenes. So, try out your favorite content with very dark scenes with and without high-speed auto-iris and see if you notice a difference in black levels and shadow detail. Viewing in a room as dark as you can get helps with being able to resolve actual black levels and shadow detail, so make sure your room is as dark as you can get it.
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't see any difference in dark scenes, it is possible your manual iris is already dialed-down a bit, the auto-iris may have too limited range to work with. So, check that your manual iris setting is set to zero (instead of some negative number).
> 
> 
> 
> Post back and share your results.


Any suggestions for a dark scene in a movie? My movie room is pitch black, with no windows, so hopefully I'll see the Iris do its thing. 

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## ShadowBoy

Here's a question strictly out of curiosity. JVC released the N series of projectors without Dynamic Toning Mapping. They then were able to add it with a simple firmware update. I would imagine that the circuit boards they had installed at the time of release were not exceptionally elaborate because it would seem that if they had anticipated the DTM upgrade required major upgrading in circuit boards they would have installed those at the time of release. And if they had, why didn't they install DTM at the time ( maybe it wasn't perfected yet?). My point being that if it doesn't require an apparatus of complex, expensive circuitry, why can't Epson release a small Darbee-like device that the HDMI signal comes through that has DTM capabilities? I think most of us Epson owners would pay even a few hundreds dollars for DTM on the quality of the JVC's. The circuitry and firmware code can't be that complex or expensive to reproduce, can it? I mean, I know it's not going to be on the level of the Envy or even HTPC or Lumagen, but might be better than Panasonic 820 or Epson's built in static tone mapping. I am ignorant of the details of what this would require, but is there any sense in what I'm proposing? What does the brains trust think?


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## jch2

biglen said:


> Any suggestions for a dark scene in a movie? My movie room is pitch black, with no windows, so hopefully I'll see the Iris do its thing.


With a pitch black room you are in the perfect setting to evaluate black levels and shadow detail. That's great news!

Game of Thrones (HBO) S8E5 "The Bells" is the ultimate stress test of black levels and shadow detail for any TV or projector. If your TV is average (like most viewers of the episode had), you'll see a gray screen with almost no detail. It was a mess, there are posts all over the internet with complaints about it being too dark. However, watch it on an OLED or a projector with an auto iris, and you'll see the episode the way it was intended, dark, with lots of detail.

I also like Amazon's 4k HDR version of the Expanse, Season 4. Any of the space scenes with a black starfield background and ships really show off the difference of good black levels. Does space look grey to you, or black? Auto-iris will close way down and will help make it look black, and then when it switches to a bright sunny planetside surface scene, the iris will pop back wide open and you'll be blinded by the bright picture from the surface of a planet. It's pretty incredible actually.

There are a ton of movies and content with dark scenes that the Epson 5050UB/6050UB projectors excel at (remember, UB is ultra-black, and blacks and dark scenes is where these models excel over the competition). Hopefully the community here can post more recommendations for their favorite dark scenes where the Epson projectors really do a good job.


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## biglen

jch2 said:


> With a pitch black room you are in the perfect setting to evaluate black levels and shadow detail. That's great news!
> 
> 
> 
> Game of Thrones (HBO) S8E5 "The Bells" is the ultimate stress test of black levels and shadow detail for any TV or projector. If your TV is average (like most viewers of the episode had), you'll see a gray screen with almost no detail. It was a mess, there are posts all over the internet with complaints about it being too dark. However, watch it on an OLED or a projector with an auto iris, and you'll see the episode the way it was intended, dark, with lots of detail.
> 
> 
> 
> I also like Amazon's 4k HDR version of the Expanse, Season 4. Any of the space scenes with a black starfield background and ships really show off the difference of good black levels. Does space look grey to you, or black? Auto-iris will close way down and will help make it look black, and then when it switches to a bright sunny planetside surface scene, the iris will pop back wide open and you'll be blinded by the bright picture from the surface of a planet. It's pretty incredible actually.
> 
> 
> 
> There are a ton of movies and content with dark scenes that the Epson 5050UB/6050UB projectors excel at (remember, UB is ultra-black, and blacks and dark scenes is where these models excel over the competition). Hopefully the community here can post more recommendations for their favorite dark scenes where the Epson projectors really do a good job.


Okay, I have S08E05 4K HDR. Do you remember which scene was causing people problems? 

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## plain fan

@ShadowBoy, my understanding is that JVC had to eliminate a feature to free up processing power to accommodate DTM. The question is whether or not the Epson 5050/6050 units have the horsepower available to perform DTM and if Epson has the desire to develop their own or license someone's DTM to implement.


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## jch2

biglen said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Game of Thrones (HBO) S8E5 "The Bells" is the ultimate stress test of black levels and shadow detail for any TV or projector. If your TV is average (like most viewers of the episode had), you'll see a gray screen with almost no detail. It was a mess, there are posts all over the internet with complaints about it being too dark. However, watch it on an OLED or a projector with an auto iris, and you'll see the episode the way it was intended, dark, with lots of detail.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, I have S08E05 4K HDR. Do you remember which scene was causing people problems?
Click to expand...

It's pretty much the whole episode. But try watching the final battle scenes, including where the Dothraki horsemen ride off to battle with their swords on fire.


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## biglen

jch2 said:


> It's pretty much the whole episode. But try watching the final battle scenes, including where the Dothraki horsemen ride off to battle with their swords on fire.


What exactly am I looking for in that scene, just for it to look good, and not washed out?

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## jch2

biglen said:


> What exactly am I looking for in that scene, just for it to look good, and not washed out?


I would suggest watching the original episode in SDR from HBO Now streaming, as that will be in the format it was originally broadcast in and the way almost everyone else saw it. You say you have it in 4k HDR, so that means you probably have the 4k UHD Blu-ray disc, or a rip of it. If you do watch in 4k HDR, you have another variable that comes into play, the setting of the Epson HDR slider. If you are watching from a 4k UHD Blu-ray disc, you also have to take into consideration any tone-mapping that might be happening in your player. For example, the Panasonic UB820 has settings for HDR tone mapping for low luminance displays like projectors.

So, watch the episode (or the final battle scene) auto-iris off, and then rewatch with auto-iris on high=speed. Look for things like, how black is the background (does it look black or just dark grey?). Look for how much detail you can see in the scene with each auto-iris setting. Auto-iris on and high speed should let you see more details in the entire scene, since the entire scene is in shadow and would be considered "shadow detail". If you are watching in 4k HDR, you may need to make adjustments to the Epson's HDR slider to get a good picture first. Most people watch with the slider somewhere between 1-5, with 1 mostly being too light and washed out with black levels crushed, and 5 (or higher) mostly being too dark.


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## biglen

jch2 said:


> I would suggest watching the original episode in SDR from HBO Now streaming, as that will be in the format it was originally broadcast in and the way almost everyone else saw it. You say you have it in 4k HDR, so that means you probably have the 4k UHD Blu-ray disc, or a rip of it. If you do watch in 4k HDR, you have another variable that comes into play, the setting of the Epson HDR slider. If you are watching from a 4k UHD Blu-ray disc, you also have to take into consideration any tone-mapping that might be happening in your player. For example, the Panasonic UB820 has settings for HDR tone mapping for low luminance displays like projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> So, watch the episode (or the final battle scene) auto-iris off, and then rewatch with auto-iris on high=speed. Look for things like, how black is the background (does it look black or just dark grey?). Look for how much detail you can see in the scene with each auto-iris setting. Auto-iris on and high speed should let you see more details in the entire scene, since the entire scene is in shadow and would be considered "shadow detail". If you are watching in 4k HDR, you may need to make adjustments to the Epson's HDR slider to get a good picture first. Most people watch with the slider somewhere between 1-5, with 1 mostly being too light and washed out with black levels crushed, and 5 (or higher) mostly being too dark.


Is this where the battle scene starts?









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## biglen

On another note, I watched a 4k HDR demo that had some really good blacks.









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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> On another note, I watched a 4k HDR demo that had some really good blacks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Man that is a beautiful image 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Man that is a beautiful image
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks ! Here's a link to the demo if you want to see what it looks like on your 6050. There's a bunch of other great demos on there as well. Put the file on a USB stick, and play it through your Roku. 

https://4kmedia.org/sharp-saturns-rings-uhd-4k-demo/

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## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Thanks ! Here's a link to the demo if you want to see what it looks like on your 6050. There's a bunch of other great demos on there as well. Put the file on a USB stick, and play it through your Roku.
> 
> https://4kmedia.org/sharp-saturns-rings-uhd-4k-demo/
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Mucho gracias my friend. 

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## jch2

biglen said:


> Is this where the battle scene starts?


I apologize, I gave you the wrong episode number. The episode is S08E03 "The Long Night". The Dothraki charge with flaming swords starts about 12 minutes in. The entire episode was filmed at night and is dark, so you can watch just about any scene.


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## biglen

jch2 said:


> I apologize, I gave you the wrong episode number. The episode is S08E03 "The Long Night". The Dothraki charge with flaming swords starts about 12 minutes in. The entire episode was filmed at night and is dark, so you can watch just about any scene.


I had a feeling I had the wrong episode. 

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## jeahrens

ShadowBoy said:


> Here's a question strictly out of curiosity. JVC released the N series of projectors without Dynamic Toning Mapping. They then were able to add it with a simple firmware update. I would imagine that the circuit boards they had installed at the time of release were not exceptionally elaborate because it would seem that if they had anticipated the DTM upgrade required major upgrading in circuit boards they would have installed those at the time of release. And if they had, why didn't they install DTM at the time ( maybe it wasn't perfected yet?). My point being that if it doesn't require an apparatus of complex, expensive circuitry, why can't Epson release a small Darbee-like device that the HDMI signal comes through that has DTM capabilities? I think most of us Epson owners would pay even a few hundreds dollars for DTM on the quality of the JVC's. The circuitry and firmware code can't be that complex or expensive to reproduce, can it? I mean, I know it's not going to be on the level of the Envy or even HTPC or Lumagen, but might be better than Panasonic 820 or Epson's built in static tone mapping. I am ignorant of the details of what this would require, but is there any sense in what I'm proposing? What does the brains trust think?


The NX lineup shipped with a rather powerful image processor. I'm not sure if DTM was the original plan, but remember the original firmware did do static tone mapping so they were at least playing with tone mapping from the get go. If I was to speculate, I don't think they put that powerful hardware in there for no reason and DTM was probably a goal that they just couldn't meet in time for the release. As Plain Fan points out they did have to drop a correction feature for anamorphic lenses with curved screens, but we don't know if that was a processing issue or they needed to free up memory for the new code. 

I think whomever gets a device out there that can do decent DTM for $800 or less stands to make a lot of money from the projector market. There are a lot of Epson, JVC e-shift and Sony 4K projectors out there that can really benefit. Maybe someone like HDFury will try to tackle it. Or maybe Panasonic with a player, but that has the disadvantage of only working with material that player can handle vs something that directly feeds the display that can handle all HDR sources. I do look for Epson and Sony to address DTM in future products. I'm a bit surprised Epson hasn't gone full native 4K yet. Probably waiting until they can get the panel performance at the price point they want to hit.


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## biglen

jeahrens said:


> The NX lineup shipped with a rather powerful image processor. I'm not sure if DTM was the original plan, but remember the original firmware did do static tone mapping so they were at least playing with tone mapping from the get go. If I was to speculate, I don't think they put that powerful hardware in there for no reason and DTM was probably a goal that they just couldn't meet in time for the release. As Plain Fan points out they did have to drop a correction feature for anamorphic lenses with curved screens, but we don't know if that was a processing issue or they needed to free up memory for the new code.
> 
> 
> 
> I think whomever gets a device out there that can do decent DTM for $800 or less stands to make a lot of money from the projector market. There are a lot of Epson, JVC e-shift and Sony 4K projectors out there that can really benefit. Maybe someone like HDFury will try to tackle it. Or maybe Panasonic with a player, but that has the disadvantage of only working with material that player can handle vs something that directly feeds the display that can handle all HDR sources. I do look for Epson and Sony to address DTM in future products. I'm a bit surprised Epson hasn't gone full native 4K yet. Probably waiting until they can get the panel performance at the price point they want to hit.


Any idea why the MadVR Envy is so outrageously priced???

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## ivanhoek

jeahrens said:


> The NX lineup shipped with a rather powerful image processor. I'm not sure if DTM was the original plan, but remember the original firmware did do static tone mapping so they were at least playing with tone mapping from the get go. If I was to speculate, I don't think they put that powerful hardware in there for no reason and DTM was probably a goal that they just couldn't meet in time for the release. As Plain Fan points out they did have to drop a correction feature for anamorphic lenses with curved screens, but we don't know if that was a processing issue or they needed to free up memory for the new code.
> 
> 
> 
> I think whomever gets a device out there that can do decent DTM for $800 or less stands to make a lot of money from the projector market. There are a lot of Epson, JVC e-shift and Sony 4K projectors out there that can really benefit. Maybe someone like HDFury will try to tackle it. Or maybe Panasonic with a player, but that has the disadvantage of only working with material that player can handle vs something that directly feeds the display that can handle all HDR sources. I do look for Epson and Sony to address DTM in future products. I'm a bit surprised Epson hasn't gone full native 4K yet. Probably waiting until they can get the panel performance at the price point they want to hit.




Epson was probably waiting for me to buy one before going 4K native. I just did.. so I guarantee that they’ll release a 4K native one this year. They’ve patiently waited for me to buy, and finally ran me down 


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## biglen

ivanhoek said:


> Epson was probably waiting for me to buy one before going 4K native. I just did.. so I guarantee that they’ll release a 4K native one this year. They’ve patiently waited for me to buy, and finally ran me down
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


You'll feel better when you see how much more the native 4k model will be, compared to what you just spent. I'd guess it will be at least double of what you paid, and to the naked eye sitting at the main viewing position, you probably wouldn't see much of a difference. 

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## ivanhoek

biglen said:


> You'll feel better when you see how much more the native 4k model will be, compared to what you just spent. I'd guess it will be at least double of what you paid, and to the naked eye sitting at the main viewing position, you probably wouldn't see much of a difference.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




I don’t want to spend the big bucks until we have 8k with full 48gbps bandwidth and all refresh rates  

Here’s hoping this projector lasts that long hehe


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## jeahrens

biglen said:


> Any idea why the MadVR Envy is so outrageously priced???
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My guess is that it's their use of top of the line PC hardware. So you have a significant cost in the bill of materials for the 2080Ti, board, processor, etc on top of the hardware that supports HDMI pass through/copy protection. The main problem with top of the line PC hardware is you are using general purpose computing (and a lot of it) vs. silicon specifically designed for the task at hand. Specialized silicon is much smaller, more efficient and cheaper to manufacture. But you have to have it designed. With MadVR I suspect they lack the capital to get specialized silicon designed and produced. They may also be worried about recouping the R&D with what is kind of a niche product.

The main worry for MadVR is Lumagen appears to have the resources to design custom hardware. And I would bet they are taking MadVR very seriously. It's very likely they can get custom silicon that is competitive for less money in a much smaller footprint. Doesn't solve the issue of the sub $1000 solution though as Lumagen has never really been in that market. That I could see a Panasonic or HDFury taking an interest in.


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## skylarlove1999

jeahrens said:


> My guess is that it's their use of top of the line PC hardware. So you have a significant cost in the bill of materials for the 2080Ti, board, processor, etc on top of the hardware that supports HDMI pass through/copy protection. The main problem with top of the line PC hardware is you are using general purpose computing (and a lot of it) vs. silicon specifically designed for the task at hand. Specialized silicon is much smaller, more efficient and cheaper to manufacture. But you have to have it designed. With MadVR I suspect they lack the capital to get specialized silicon designed and produced. They may also be worried about recouping the R&D with what is kind of a niche product.
> 
> 
> 
> The main worry for MadVR is Lumagen appears to have the resources to design custom hardware. And I would bet they are taking MadVR very seriously. It's very likely they can get custom silicon that is competitive for less money in a much smaller footprint. Doesn't solve the issue of the sub $1000 solution though as Lumagen has never really been in that market. That I could see a Panasonic or HDFury taking an interest in.


Don't forget the exorbitant cost of HDCP licensing for all the devices that will run through the video processor. Honestly if you spec out all the hardware and the licensing agreements it isn't ridiculously priced. It is just the Envy that makes us want it to be so much less expensive. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

jeahrens said:


> My guess is that it's their use of top of the line PC hardware. So you have a significant cost in the bill of materials for the 2080Ti, board, processor, etc on top of the hardware that supports HDMI pass through/copy protection. The main problem with top of the line PC hardware is you are using general purpose computing (and a lot of it) vs. silicon specifically designed for the task at hand. Specialized silicon is much smaller, more efficient and cheaper to manufacture. But you have to have it designed. With MadVR I suspect they lack the capital to get specialized silicon designed and produced. They may also be worried about recouping the R&D with what is kind of a niche product.
> 
> 
> 
> The main worry for MadVR is Lumagen appears to have the resources to design custom hardware. And I would bet they are taking MadVR very seriously. It's very likely they can get custom silicon that is competitive for less money in a much smaller footprint. Doesn't solve the issue of the sub $1000 solution though as Lumagen has never really been in that market. That I could see a Panasonic or HDFury taking an interest in.


But...lumagen doesn't have the algorithms to really accomplish what MadVR is doing. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## CrazyCanuck69

Hi all. So I just pushed the button on a 5050 and I'm super stoked (gonna be a long 5 days of shipping wait!). Except I JUST painted my white ceiling with a dark brown matte and I’m so sad about the big white eyesore it’s going to be. I just couldn’t stomach the extra $1000 to go to the 6050 just for the color (and a bulb I guess....I already have a good Chief mount). 
Anyway I’m just daydreaming about ways to blacken it. I tried Googling parts to see if I could just buy the outer plastic pieces but everything ended up at ‘call an Epson dealer’
Some kind of black wrap? (would be such a pain with all those vents to cut out)
Hand paint it? Seems so wrong on a new $3500 projector (I’m in Canada, eh). 
Learn to never look at it?
Thoughts? I really need to kill the next 5 days 😜


----------



## DavidinGA

CrazyCanuck69 said:


> Hi all. So I just pushed the button on a 5050 and I'm super stoked (gonna be a long 5 days of shipping wait!). Except I JUST painted my white ceiling with a dark brown matte and I’m so sad about the big white eyesore it’s going to be. I just couldn’t stomach the extra $1000 to go to the 6050 just for the color (and a bulb I guess....I already have a good Chief mount).
> Anyway I’m just daydreaming about ways to blacken it. I tried Googling parts to see if I could just buy the outer plastic pieces but everything ended up at ‘call an Epson dealer’
> Some kind of black wrap? (would be such a pain with all those vents to cut out)
> Hand paint it? Seems so wrong on a new $3500 projector (I’m in Canada, eh).
> Learn to never look at it?
> Thoughts? I really need to kill the next 5 days 😜


Plastidip it black. You can then always peel the coating off later if you need to very easily. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

CrazyCanuck69 said:


> Hi all. So I just pushed the button on a 5050 and I'm super stoked (gonna be a long 5 days of shipping wait!). Except I JUST painted my white ceiling with a dark brown matte and I’m so sad about the big white eyesore it’s going to be. I just couldn’t stomach the extra $1000 to go to the 6050 just for the color (and a bulb I guess....I already have a good Chief mount).
> Anyway I’m just daydreaming about ways to blacken it. I tried Googling parts to see if I could just buy the outer plastic pieces but everything ended up at ‘call an Epson dealer’
> Some kind of black wrap? (would be such a pain with all those vents to cut out)
> Hand paint it? Seems so wrong on a new $3500 projector (I’m in Canada, eh).
> Learn to never look at it?
> Thoughts? I really need to kill the next 5 days 😜




I recommend looking at the screen instead... I have the same setup with all black theater etc and I find that I never look at the projector 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

CrazyCanuck69 said:


> Hi all. So I just pushed the button on a 5050 and I'm super stoked (gonna be a long 5 days of shipping wait!). Except I JUST painted my white ceiling with a dark brown matte and I’m so sad about the big white eyesore it’s going to be. I just couldn’t stomach the extra $1000 to go to the 6050 just for the color (and a bulb I guess....I already have a good Chief mount).
> Anyway I’m just daydreaming about ways to blacken it. I tried Googling parts to see if I could just buy the outer plastic pieces but everything ended up at ‘call an Epson dealer’
> Some kind of black wrap? (would be such a pain with all those vents to cut out)
> Hand paint it? Seems so wrong on a new $3500 projector (I’m in Canada, eh).
> Learn to never look at it?
> Thoughts? I really need to kill the next 5 days 😜


I would not recommend doing any type of coating that gives off chemicals even if you can't smell them. Besides the health risk you can and will damage the lens system and LCD panel when the chemicals in the coating are heated by the projector and then sucked into the projector. Build a hush box and paint it black. Kills the noise pollution and gets rid of the white eyesore. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## gene4ht

CrazyCanuck69 said:


> Hi all. So I just pushed the button on a 5050 and I'm super stoked (gonna be a long 5 days of shipping wait!). Except I JUST painted my white ceiling with a dark brown matte and I’m so sad about the big white eyesore it’s going to be. I just couldn’t stomach the extra $1000 to go to the 6050 just for the color (and a bulb I guess....I already have a good Chief mount).
> Anyway I’m just daydreaming about ways to blacken it. I tried Googling parts to see if I could just buy the outer plastic pieces but everything ended up at ‘call an Epson dealer’
> Some kind of black wrap? (would be such a pain with all those vents to cut out)
> Hand paint it? Seems so wrong on a new $3500 projector (I’m in Canada, eh).
> Learn to never look at it?
> Thoughts? I really need to kill the next 5 days 😜


I realize that there are a few among us who are extremely OCD about the PJ’s case color...but I’m in the @ivanhoek camp. The important aspect of this hobby is in front of you rather than above you. Once immersed in a good movie in a darkened room, the PJ disappears...for the majority of us. The truly OCD would only find it distracting with a movie playing or no movie playing and the lights on. If this is the case (no pun intended), then perhaps make an appointment with a psychoanalyst.. Kidding aside, there have been a couple of owners here who have found solutions...either with a case wrapping material or a hush box approach...painting is not advisable for a myriad of reasons. In any case, good luck with your search for a solution to your liking!


----------



## Jmouse007

Question for Epson 6050UB and 5050UB owners, especially those who own a STEWART (or any other ALR) screen with approximately 1.2, 1.3 gain. 

I'm seriously thinking of purchasing a new Epson 4K 6050UB to replace my "long in the tooth" SONY VPL-VW60 1080p projector. I just have one area of concern.

I have a 100" 16/9 STEWART Firehawk SST retractable tab-tensioned screen with a 1.2 gain.
My current ceiling mounted projector lens throw is approximately 12 1/2 feet from the screen.

My question is this: because the Epson 6050UB is so much brighter than my current projector will I experience "hot spotting"? Or, based upon your experience does the STEWART screen do a great job in preventing "hot spotting". 

Any response/information would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## ivanhoek

Jmouse007 said:


> Question for Epson 6050UB and 5050UB owners, especially those who own a STEWART (or any other ALR) screen with approximately 1.2, 1.3 gain.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seriously thinking of purchasing a new Epson 4K 6050UB to replace my "long in the tooth" SONY VPL-VW60 1080p projector. I just have one area of concern.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 100" 16/9 STEWART Firehawk SST retractable tab-tensioned screen with a 1.2 gain.
> 
> My current ceiling mounted projector lens throw is approximately 12 1/2 feet from the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> My question is this: because the Epson 6050UB is so much brighter than my current projector will I experience "hot spotting"? Or, based upon your experience does the STEWART screen do a great job in preventing "hot spotting".
> 
> 
> 
> Any response/information would be greatly appreciated.




You can always use a lower bulb mode (such as eco) and/or close the iris until you get the brightness you want/need. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Schurter

DavidinGA said:


> Schurter said:
> 
> 
> 
> How many people have 145 inch plus screen.
> What aspic ratio
> How much gain
> 
> Can you share your setup
> How dose HDR look / perform on a screen this size.
> 
> 
> 
> 150"
> 16:9
> 1.1 gain
> 
> Running a 5040 in medium lamp with a htpc and MadVR. HDR looks amazing and very bright thanks to madvr. Without madVR, I would caution against going with a big screen for hdr though; it'll be very dim and you'll definitely have to run high lamp (noisy!).
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

What htpc set do you have. 

Your madvr setup. 
How can you have hdr in low lamp. 
I thought you needed 30ft lumens for hdr


----------



## DavidinGA

Schurter said:


> What htpc set do you have.
> 
> Your madvr setup.
> How can you have hdr in low lamp.
> I thought you needed 30ft lumens for hdr


Budget htpc I pieced together that's built around a pc that is probably 5-6 years old. It has a amd cpu and then I added a ssd HD, bigger psu and a 1060 6gb gpu.

I run medium lamp and get about 80 nits on my 150" display (plenty for MADVR to make the magic happen). I see a bit over 100 nits in high lamp, but I don't use it as I can't stand that mini jet engine blowing over head.

30ft lumens is a sufficient (just barely imo) light level for hdr if your running without madVR.

MadVR changes everything about how to make the most out of hdr on low lumen displays. It's worth learning about it if you want a crazy good video experience on the big screen! 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## mkerdman

I need a new projector now.

At this point, should I buy a 5050UB or a 6050UB?

Both are nearly a year old and my get updated or repriced in the fast moving marketplace.

Is the 5050UB "good enough"?

Is the 6050UB overpriced by comparison?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## aeneas01

have been lovin' my 6050ub + htpc setup but recently decided to play around with different hardware and software settings / combos just to see if it was possible to get even better performance and image quality, it's been fun and educational to say the least... my equipment includes the 6050ub, htpc, radiance pro, vertex, cx-a5100 avr and i've been experimenting with quite a few different software players and filters as well.

all of that said, i'm hoping that someone can explain exactly how the 6050ub handles 4k (3840 x 2160) video files given the pj's 1920 x 1080 (1920 x 1080 x 2) native resolution? the pj can of course accept 3840 x 2160 signals but what does it do with that signal? downscale it to 1920 x 1080 so that it can apply its 4k enhancement? thanks!


----------



## jch2

aeneas01 said:


> I'm hoping that someone can explain exactly how the 6050ub handles 4k (3840 x 2160) video files given the pj's 1920 x 1080 (1920 x 1080 x 2) native resolution? the pj can of course accept 3840 x 2160 signals but what does it do with that signal? downscale it to 1920 x 1080 so that it can apply its 4k enhancement? thanks!


Is uses the full 3840 x 2160 (8M pixels) worth of information to choose the best colors to render each of the two shifted 1920 x 1080 frames (4M pixels) on the screen. It does NOT first downscale to 2M pixels and then upscale (with 4k enhancement) to 4M pixels. You'll notice that "4k Enhancement" is only active and available to be turned on if you feed it a 1080p signal. If you feed it a 4k signal the option is off and disabled.

If the source is a true 4k (not upscaled source like a lot of movies with special effects that themselves are only mastered at 2-4M pixels and then upscaled since true 8M pixel CGI is far too expensive yet) then you'll notice an improvement in apparent sharpness of the image vs downscaling it first to 1920 x 1080 outside of the projector and letting the projector's 4k enhancement fill in (i.e. "guess") 4M pixels from only 2M source pixels. So, the more source pixels you send to it the better the picture can be. You may not notice a difference from your viewing distance, and depending on the source there may also be very little difference in picture. But in theory, feeding it a full real 8M pixels worth of information from a source that has never been upscaled should give the projector more / better information to work with and produce a better image.

If you watch a lot of movies with special effects, there will be very little to no difference in picture between a true 4k display (8M pixel display) and an Epson pixel shifter (4M pixels) because the source is likely only a 2M or 4M pixels source post-CGI and then upscaled to 4k / 8M pixels on the media you have (or in the data file you are streaming from).

Finally, most of what you use to determine picture quality has little to do with the amount of pixels on the screen though (the resolution). The camera itself, the color space (SDR / REC.709 vs HDR / BT.2020), focus and aperture settings of the original camera, contrast and black levels, colors and color accuracy, greyscale and greyscale accuracy, and brightness (and especially brightness), as well as any image processing that went into the source and that are processed by the equipment in your signal path all have a much higher impact on perceived picture quality than resolution.

Hope that helps.

-J.C.


----------



## Luminated67

aeneas01 said:


> all of that said, i'm hoping that someone can explain exactly how the 6050ub handles 4k (3840 x 2160) video files given the pj's 1920 x 1080 (1920 x 1080 x 2) native resolution? the pj can of course accept 3840 x 2160 signals but what does it do with that signal? downscale it to 1920 x 1080 so that it can apply its 4k enhancement? thanks!












Hope this explains how proper 4K signals are received, converted and then projected onto the screen


----------



## plain fan

@Luminated67,

Does that describe the "all the pixels on the screen at once" with a 4k panel versus pixel shifting? So pixel shifting does display the entire 4k image, just not at the same time but it does show each pixel?

Thanks


----------



## pete ramberg

plain fan said:


> @Luminated67,
> 
> Does that describe the "all the pixels on the screen at once" with a 4k panel versus pixel shifting? So pixel shifting does display the entire 4k image, just not at the same time but it does show each pixel?
> 
> Thanks


4K pixel-shifting shows half of a complete 4k image. 1920x1080x2 = 4 million pixels. 3840x2160 = 8 million pixels.


----------



## Luminated67

pete ramberg said:


> 4K pixel-shifting shows half of a complete 4k image. 1920x1080x2 = 4 million pixels. 3840x2160 = 8 million pixels.


This is correct, from what I can make out it creates two individual 1080p images and shifts one the half a pixel were as with a 1080p signal it creates two identical images and shifts it the half pixel. This is why a good 4K signal away looks that bit better.


----------



## jch2

plain fan said:


> @Luminated67,
> 
> Does that describe the "all the pixels on the screen at once" with a 4k panel versus pixel shifting? So pixel shifting does display the entire 4k image, just not at the same time but it does show each pixel?
> 
> Thanks


There are 8M pixels in a 4k image. The Epson displays 4M pixels (two 2M pixels images shifted 50% of a pixel up and right from each other) interpolated from the 8M pixels available. So, half the available pixels. From anything farther away than 50% of the screen diagonal, you most likely won't see a difference.

Also, with source material with special effects where the CGI was done at 2M or 4M pixels (most CGI), you also won't see much of a difference since there is only 2M or 4M pixels worth of real information in the 8M pixel frame given to the Epson.


----------



## pete ramberg

Luminated67 said:


> This is correct, from what I can make out it creates two individual 1080p images and shifts one the half a pixel were as with a 1080p signal it creates two identical images and shifts it the half pixel. This is why a good 4K signal away looks that bit better.


That's the way I understand it. Each 1080p image is unique and derived from the original 4k image with pixel-shifting.


----------



## jch2

pete ramberg said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is correct, from what I can make out it creates two individual 1080p images and shifts one the half a pixel were as with a 1080p signal it creates two identical images and shifts it the half pixel. This is why a good 4K signal away looks that bit better.
> 
> 
> 
> That's the way I understand it. Each 1080p image is unique and derived from the original 4k image with pixel-shifting.
Click to expand...

Whether the source is 1080p or 4k, the two individual frames created are unique (never identical unless you are displaying a solid color frame).

With a 1080p signal, it has to "make up" or "guess" the second frame (this is the "4k enhancement" process), and it can look better or worse than the original 1080p signal, but generally better.

With a 4k signal it uses the information in the signal to "derive" the second frame, and thus is more accurate since the information is not "made up". This almost always looks better than a downconversion to 1080p.


----------



## pete ramberg

jch2 said:


> Whether the source is 1080p or 4k, the two individual frames created are unique (never identical unless you are displaying a solid color frame).
> 
> With a 1080p signal, it has to "make up" or "guess" the second frame (this is the "4k enhancement" process), and it can look better or worse than the original 1080p signal, but generally better.
> 
> With a 4k signal it uses the information in the signal to "derive" the second frame, and thus is more accurate since the information is not "made up". This almost always looks better than a downconversion to 1080p.



Is it your understanding that upscaling a native 1080p images uses interpolation of the original 1080p image to create the second (rather than frame doubling)?


----------



## aeneas01

Luminated67 said:


> Hope this explains how proper 4K signals are received, converted and then projected onto the screen


 so the 6050ub "splits" the 3840 x 2160 image into two 1920 x 1080 frames and then shifts them to produce the 4k image as opposed to passing along the 3840 x 2160 image? how would the same diagram look with a 1080p image as the source?





jch2 said:


> There are 8M pixels in a 4k image. The Epson displays 4M pixels (two 2M pixels images shifted 50% of a pixel up and right from each other) interpolated from the 8M pixels available. So, half the available pixels. From anything farther away than 50% of the screen diagonal, you most likely won't see a difference.


so for a 170" (diagonal) screen (148" x 83"), anything farther away than 7' it would be tough to see the difference? i ask because that's what i've found as well - does anyone sit within 7' of a 170" screen? seems like that would be very fatiguing, at least.




jch2 said:


> Finally, most of what you use to determine picture quality has little to do with the amount of pixels on the screen though (the resolution). The camera itself, the color space (SDR / REC.709 vs HDR / BT.2020), focus and aperture settings of the original camera, contrast and black levels, colors and color accuracy, greyscale and greyscale accuracy, and brightness (and especially brightness), as well as any image processing that went into the source and that are processed by the equipment in your signal path all have a much higher impact on perceived picture  quality than resolution.


first, thanks for the very detailed and clearly put explanation in your previous post, very helpful indeed... re the above, i have to agree 100%, at least in my experience.


----------



## noob00224

aeneas01 said:


> so the 6050ub "splits" the 3840 x 2160 image into two 1920 x 1080 frames and then shifts them to produce the 4k image as opposed to passing along the 3840 x 2160 image? how would the same diagram look with a 1080p image as the source?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so for a 170" (diagonal) screen (148" x 83"), anything farther away than 7' it would be tough to see the difference? i ask because that's what i've found as well - does anyone sit within 7' of a 170" screen? seems like that would be very fatiguing, at least.
> 
> 
> 
> first, thanks for the very detailed and clearly put explanation in your previous post, very helpful indeed... re the above, i have to agree 100%, at least in my experience.


 I believe the projector downscales the image from 8m pixels to 4. So downscales to 1080p and then enables the 4K enhancer (?).

markmon1 sits at 7' from an 135" screen, with an JVC RS4500 (native 4K).


----------



## jch2

pete ramberg said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Whether the source is 1080p or 4k, the two individual frames created are unique (never identical unless you are displaying a solid color frame).
> 
> With a 1080p signal, it has to "make up" or "guess" the second frame (this is the "4k enhancement" process), and it can look better or worse than the original 1080p signal, but generally better.
> 
> With a 4k signal it uses the information in the signal to "derive" the second frame, and thus is more accurate since the information is not "made up". This almost always looks better than a downconversion to 1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it your understanding that upscaling a native 1080p images uses interpolation of the original 1080p image to create the second (rather than frame doubling)?
Click to expand...

Yes, that is correct. Just doubling and sending the same 1080p twice, with the second part identical to the first one but shifted 50% of a pixel up and right would look terrible and blur the original 1080p frame. It would look like double-vision.

The simplest solution would for the "4k Enhancement" algorithm would be to guess the pixels of the shifted frame from interpolating the four neighboring pixels, but the image processing is much more sophisticated than that, and also includes noise reduction, edge enhancement (i.e. sharpness), and lots of other algorithmic trickery to create an even better image. If it works (and it generally does) it looks better than the just sending the original 1080p image without the "4k Enhancement" processing.

-J.C.


----------



## Luminated67

jch2 said:


> Yes, that is correct. Just doubling and sending the same 1080p twice, with the second part identical to the first one but shifted 50% of a pixel up and right would look terrible and blur the original 1080p frame. It would look like double-vision.
> 
> The simplest solution would for the "4k Enhancement" algorithm would be to guess the pixels of the shifted frame from interpolating the four neighboring pixels, but the image processing is much more sophisticated than that, and also includes noise reduction, edge enhancement (i.e. sharpness), and lots of other algorithmic trickery to create an even better image. If it works (and it generally does) it looks better than the just sending the original 1080p image without the "4k Enhancement" processing.
> 
> -J.C.


That's why i love this place, you learn something new everyday. Why does a REAL 4K bluray look that little bit better than a 1080P one, is it the fact that the system has more data to work with and can calculate better what to make the second image from?


----------



## SALadder22FF

I thought I had saw on here before someone having an issue with what they thought was not the crispiest image.

I upgraded to the 5050 over the 5040 and it's awesome having the HDR but I feel like the image isn't as sharp as it could be. 

The focus is fine but like DirecTV and Xbox menus seem slightly blurry.

4k movies look great.

Is this just the source or should I recalibrate the projector. I had to adjust it slightly to get the image to fit perfectly on my screen and I feel like maybe this is the reason.

Any help in getting my Projector dialed in perfectly I would greatly appreciate.


----------



## Jmouse007

Looking for recommendations for an active 2.0b HDMI 4K cable for a 30ft run from our ONKYO PR-RZ5100 AV processor to our new (just ordered) Epson 6050UB 4k projector. 

The HDMI channel conduit is located outside the wall. It has a removable cover which makes HDMI cable replacement a snap.

Is anything capable of passing a 4:4:4 4K 60Hz Chroma subsampling with an 8 bit color depth and a 4:2:2 4K 60Hz 10 bit signal at 30'? 

Ruipro says it can only push "8 bit for 4:4:4" at 33', the closest length listed as meeting our needs.

Blue Jeans BJC Series-3A Active HDMI Cable seems like a possibility but it literally lists no performance specs.

There are also numerous "active optical HDMI" cable brands listed on Amazon but I don't know if any of these are reliable or capable of meeting our needs, hence my mentioning the Ruprio and Blue Jeans HDMI Active Cables.

I don't mind spending the money, I'm just looking for the best "active" HDMI cable that is capable of passing the best 4K HDR image possible to my new Epson 6050UB with an easy run.

What has worked for you?

Thanks in advance for your advice.


----------



## biglen

Jmouse007 said:


> Looking for recommendations for an active 2.0b HDMI 4K cable for a 30ft run from our ONKYO PR-RZ5100 AV processor to our new (just ordered) Epson 6050UB 4k projector.
> 
> 
> 
> The HDMI channel conduit is located outside the wall. It has a removable cover which makes HDMI cable replacement a snap.
> 
> 
> 
> Is anything capable of passing a 4:4:4 60Hz Chroma subsampling with a 10 bit color depth signal at 30'?
> 
> 
> 
> Ruipro says it can only push "8 bit for 4:4:4" at 33', the closest length listed as meeting our needs.
> 
> 
> 
> Blue Jeans BJC Series-3A Active HDMI Cable seems like a possibility but it literally lists no performance specs.
> 
> 
> 
> There are also numerous "active optical HDMI" cable brands listed on Amazon but I don't know if any of these are reliable or capable of meeting our needs, hence my mentioning the Ruprio and Blue Jeans HDMI Active Cables.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't mind spending the money, I'm just looking for the best "active" HDMI cable that is capable of passing the best 4K HDR image possible to my new Epson 6050UB with an easy run.
> 
> 
> 
> What has worked for you?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for your advice.


I tried a boat load of cables, and the Blue Jeans has worked flawlessly. I have the 35' from the projector, to my Pioneer Elite receiver. No issues whatsoever. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

Luminated67 said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is correct. Just doubling and sending the same 1080p twice, with the second part identical to the first one but shifted 50% of a pixel up and right would look terrible and blur the original 1080p frame. It would look like double-vision.
> 
> The simplest solution would for the "4k Enhancement" algorithm would be to guess the pixels of the shifted frame from interpolating the four neighboring pixels, but the image processing is much more sophisticated than that, and also includes noise reduction, edge enhancement (i.e. sharpness), and lots of other algorithmic trickery to create an even better image. If it works (and it generally does) it looks better than the just sending the original 1080p image without the "4k Enhancement" processing.
> 
> -J.C.
> 
> 
> 
> That's why i love this place, you learn something new everyday. Why does a REAL 4K bluray look that little bit better than a 1080P one, is it the fact that the system has more data to work with and can calculate better what to make the second image from?
Click to expand...

That's mostly correct.

A 1080p Blu-ray disc has 2 million pixels per frame, uses 8-bit or 10-bit color, and a much smaller SDR color space called Rec.709. To display 4 million pixels from this source the Epson uses its "4k Enhancement" -- it displays the actual 2 million pixels and then it "guesses"the other 2 million (called upscaling) to make a better image. The image is still SDR / Rec.709 though -- there's no "color space upscaling". It generally does a good job of this and the upscaled image looks better than if you turned 4k Enhancement off and just viewed the original 1080p image natively, but not always.

A 4k HDR Blu-ray has 8 million pixels per frame (4 times as many), uses 10-bit or 12-bit color, and has a much larger HDR color space called Rec.2020 or BT.2020 (which is twice as large as Rec.709). To display 4 million pixels from this source the Epson can compute values for all 4 million pixels it can display from the actual source pixels (called downscaling). It doesn't have to guess anything like it does when it upscales. A downscaled 4 million pixels image will almost always look better than 4 million pixels upscaled 1080p image, because guessing the value for pixels will always be less accurate than computing the actual values from real source pixels.

So, the differences you are seeing between the two different images displayed by the Epson: a 1080p SDR image upscaled to 4 million pixels and a 4k HDR image downscaled to 4 million pixels are a combination of resolution (8 million source pixels is better than 2 million, there's no guessing when it has all 8 million pixels to work with) and color space (HDR is better than SDR).

However, 4 million pixels displayed will look somewhat less sharp than a true 4k projector that does a good job of displaying all 8 million pixels (like a JVC NX7). But, from normal viewing distances (more than 50% of the screen diagonal) and 20/20 vision, your eyes don't have the physical ability to tell the difference between 4 million (Epson pixel-shift) and 8 million pixels (true 4k). If you see a difference from more than 50% of the screen diagonal away, what you are most likely seeing is the image processing differences (sharpness / edge enhancement, noise reduction, etc) between display manufacturers, not the difference in the number of pixels rendered on the screen.

Even though you can't see the difference between 4 million and 8 million pixels at typical viewing distances, what you can see clearly with 20/20 vision out to about 125% of the screen diagonal away is the difference between 2 million pixels (HD/1080p, upscaled or not) and 4 million pixels downscaled from a 4k source with Epson pixel-shift. So, the Epson pixel-shifted downscaled image from a 4k source looks sharper than 1080p native or upscaled image all the way out to about 125% of the screen diagonal. But even if you walk far enough away from your screen so the resolution no longer matters, you'll still clearly see the differences between the SDR / Rec.709 limited color space vs the HDR / Rec.2020 expanded color space.

Also, as a note, properly calibrated, the Epson can display over 100% of Rec.709 in any color mode, and about 75% of Rec.2020 with high lamp mode and any of the three color modes that engages the color filter (Cinema, B&W Cinema, and Digital Cinema), with Digital Cinema being the most accurate out of the box. 

Rec.2020 is a target, and no current movie theater projection system or any home display can hit 100% of Rec.2020. There are some pro displays that can, but they are small and super-expensive, and only used by a handful of movie studios. Rec.2020 has always been an aspirational target that to hit will require about 1,000 nits of brightness (about 333 fL!) and 12-bit panels (10-bit panels are the current high-end). The best home and theater displays (at the time of this post) are reaching into the high 80% of Rec.2020, but nothing can hit 100% yet. Also note, the next (even higher) aspirational standard is called Rec.2100 (also BT.2100), that has even a larger color space than Rec.2020. 

While movie producers use the Rec.2020 color space, they target the current subset of it that current display technology is capable of called DCI-P3. DCI-P3 lies about halfway between Rec.709 and Rec.2020. So, if the display can reach about 75% of Rec.2020, it will have near 100% coverage of DCI-P3. So, you can watch a film exactly as the producers intended with 100% of DCI-P3. The Epson covers about 87% of DCI-P3 in color modes without the color filter (Dynamic, Bright Room, and Natural), and over 100% of DCI-P3 in color modes with the color filter (Cinema, B&W Cinema, and Digital Cinema). So, with the Epson properly calibrated, you can experience a 4k HDR source mastered to DCI-P3 exactly as the movie producers intended.

I know that's a lot to digest, but movie production and display reproduction technology is complicated. And this post is a very simplified version of that complexity. Hope this post helps explain all that complexity in layman's terms and you find it useful.


----------



## AVTimme

Ok so now I have it mounted in the ceiling but haven't started using it yet 
What do you do with the stickers? Do you remove them all or do you keep the warning stickers?


----------



## audiophobe

jch2 said:


> But, from normal viewing distances (more than 50% of the screen diagonal) and 20/20 vision, your eyes don't have the physical ability to tell the difference between 4 million (Epson pixel-shift) and 8 million pixels (true 4k).


Nice and detailed answer, but what's more is that you don't even get full 4K resolution from a 4K Bluray and therefore the calculations about what people can and cannot see are all far too much in favor of the 4K source.

Consumer UHD video is compressed by a factor of about 100:1 and color resolution is half (4:2:0 chroma subsampling). It will rarely contain much more detail than a version downscaled to 2K and then transmitted to the display device uncompressed, not even taking into account the issues with filming/photography at 4K+ resolution (you should have enough light, you cannot stop down too much because of diffraction, etc).

Of course there is more detail than on a normal Bluray, because the same applies there - it isn't really 1080 lines you're getting. But the display device does not need to have full 4K resolution for additional detail, except it avoids scaling issues.

From a few tests with down- and upscaling, my guess is that 4K shift is similar to the 2560x1440 resolution of many monitors, and that this comes pretty close to what we are getting from well produced discs.
"True" 4K is the optimum of course, but smaller pixels have a potential for different problems like reduced contrast and light output.

I would only consider a 4K display matrix a big advantage if I had uncompressed signal sources, like a PC. Even there, 3D cards are using tricks like texture compression.


----------



## noob00224

@jch2

The Epson HC4xxx and 5xxx/6xxxUB series is capable of ~87% of DCI P3 without the filter and 100% or over with it. 
The filter is present in Cinema and Digital Cinema. Why would an expanded color gamut be present in B&W Cinema?

It's my impression the 4K Epsons (being 1080p projectors) take the 4K signal and downscale it to 1080p. Then the 4K enhancer enhances the image. I'm not sure if it takes any information from the original 4K signal when the 4K enhancer is activated. My guess is no.
The increased quality difference from enhancing a 1080p source is a downscaled 4K>1080p is better, sharper at the very least.

Also the resolution that the video was shot in matters. Only about 80 titles (excluding TV) have been shot in 4K. The rest are 2K, with even the effects/other items added in post processing being at 2K. There is a visible difference between a video shot at 4K vs. 2K.
In video games there is a similar issue, with internally the resolution of different items/pre rendering can be less than the displays capability.

Resolution and color gamut are independent. A 1080p video can have 10bit and expanded color gamut. It can even have 8bit and expanded color gamut. WCG requires more bit depth, dropping it to 8bit increases the likelihood of banding, but considering how many 10bit displays handle banding poorly it's less of an issue. If the display is actually 10bit and not 8bit with dithering. 
I believe some streaming services have versions of movies/tv shows in 1080p HDR, meaning they have the HDR grading and WCG while being 1080p.
Not even going to get into fake HDR grading that some companies do.

Even if projectors could reach 1000 or 4000 nits, it would be a very different experience from a TV. 
An experience with a 135" screen for instance of 1000' nits would be very different from a 1000 nits on a 65" TV.


----------



## audiophobe

It does take the original 4K image to generate the two 2K images. As I said, detail looks similar to a ~2,5k resolution, maybe a bit more. Certainly enough to reproduce most of the detail of compressed 4K video.


----------



## jch2

noob00224 said:


> The filter is present in Cinema and Digital Cinema. Why would an expanded color gamut be present in B&W Cinema?


I'm not sure why either. But the B&W Cinema mode has the color filter in place and is WCG. You can test for yourself easily and see how fast it changes between modes. Changes between modes without the filter are fast (Dynamic, Bright Cinema, Natural), and changes between the modes with the filter are also fast (Cinema B&W Cinema, and Digital Cinema). Changing between modes where it has to put the filter in place or remove it are slow. Measured, Cinema, B&W Cinema, and Digital Cinema are almost identical except color temperature, with Digital being the coolest, and B&W being the warmest, with Cinema somewhere between. And B&W Cinema is over 100% DCI-P3 just like the other two with the color filter in place. It's definitely a weird mode, either strangely named, or hard to understand what case the mode should be used for. B&W films hardly need WCG, so that must not be the real intended use for that color mode.



> It's my impression the 4K Epsons (being 1080p projectors) take the 4K signal and downscale it to 1080p. Then the 4K enhancer enhances the image. I'm not sure if it takes any information from the original 4K signal when the 4K enhancer is activated.


Your impression is incorrect. The 4k Enhancer and its algorithm are disabled and grayed out (cannot be enabled) when the projector receives a 4k image. And it has no capability to downscale a 4k image to 1080p and display it. If it could, then turning on frame interpolation would be an option with a 4k source, but it is not. When it receives a 4k image, it doesn't first downscale to 1080p, throwing away 75% of the information, and then apply guesswork to guess at what the second half/shifted 1080p frame should be. First, it would be extraordinarily stupid.

Consider this simplified example. You give me four numbers. My job is to produce two values: the first number you give me, and the sum of the four numbers you give me. I have two choices for algorithms:
(1) take the four numbers, keep the first one and throw away the other three without looking at them, and then report the first number and a guess at what the sum was.
(2) take the four numbers, compute the sum, and then report the first number and the sum.

Both algorithms lose some data (they both don't end up with knowing what the actual original four numbers are), but the second one produces more accurate results.

Second, it just isn't necessary. Just because it has three 1080p LCD screens doesn't mean it is a "1080p projector". It has actual 4k image processing -- limited, but functional. And it is easy to demonstrate: Take a 4k HDR source that can force downscale its output to 1080p HDR (like a disc player or an Apple TV 4k) and send the projector both the 1080p downscaled image and let it 4k Enhance / upscale that to 4 million pixels, and then send it the full 4k signal and let it downsample that to 4 million pixels. Compare the two. It is quite easy to see the downscaled image is superior than the upscaled one.



> The increased quality difference from enhancing a 1080p source is a downscaled 4K>1080p is better, sharper at the very least.


Not at all. A real-time downscale of 4k 10-bit HDR 4:2:0 source to 1080p using cheap consumer hardware and algorithms isn't anywhere near as good as a professional mastered and hand-tuned HD/1080p downscale using high-end hardware and sophisticated algorithms that have much more data on the master to work from. The professional pre-rendered downscale doesn't have to be real-time, is reviewed and hand-tuned by humans tweaking lots of algorithm inputs, and it has a 4k 12-bit 4:4:4 HDR full Rec.2020 master to work from, rather than the already scaled down 4k 10-bit 4:2:0 DCI-P3 data on the disc.

So best case, a 4k downscale using home equipment may match the official studio 1080p version, but that's unlikely. The 1080p image from a consumer hardware/algorithm real-time downscale of a 4k source will likely look worse than the studio produced 1080p image.



> Even if projectors could reach 1000 or 4000 nits, it would be a very different experience from a TV. An experience with a 135" screen for instance of 1000' nits would be very different from a 1000 nits on a 65" TV.


And won't that be a glorious day indeed -- the day when we can have 1,000 nits and 135" screen for less than $5k? 🙂 I can't wait. But I suspect it won't be projection technology, but rather a wall of micro-LEDs instead (which already exists, but isn't anywhere near sub-$5k yet).


----------



## noob00224

jch2 said:


> Not at all. A real-time downscale of 4k HDR 4:2:0 source to 1080p using cheap consumer hardware and algorithms isn't anywhere near as good as a professional mastered and hand-tuned HD/1080p downscale using high-end hardware and sophisticated algorithms that have much more data on the master to work from. So best case, a 4k downscale using home equipment may match the official studio 1080p version, but that's unlikely. The 1080p image from a consumer hardware/algorithm downscale of a 4k source will likely look worse than the studio produced 1080p image.


On an 1080p display, with madvr, 1080p blu rays always look softer and less defined than downscaled 4K. 

To get closer to what the 4K downscaled image looks like image enhancements have to be used (in madvr).

Definitely happens on 4K and 1080p bluray's of Avengers Endgame, and have never had to use madvr's enhancements on a 4K source. It always looks sharper. 

Search for Image Enhancements in the guide and check out the examples:
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188

Maybe it's unique to some of madvr's algorithms. I guess it depends on what algorithm does the downscaling.


----------



## jch2

noob00224 said:


> On an 1080p display, with madvr, 1080p blu rays always look softer and less defined than downscaled 4K.
> 
> To get closer to what the 4K downscaled image looks like image enhancements have to be used (in madvr).
> 
> Definitely happens on 4K and 1080p bluray's of Avengers Endgame, and have never had to use madvr's enhancements on a 4K source. It always looks sharper.
> 
> Maybe it's unique to some of madvr's algorithms. I guess it depends on what algorithm does the downscaling.


We all know MadVR is a whole different beast. It's image processing algorithms (especially the HDR related ones, like tone mapping) are the best-in-class for HDR image processing for low luminance devices like projectors.

I didn't know it also had such good downscaling too. That's good to know. Thanks for sharing. It may be that it is as good as, or better than, the current process that studios use to produce 1080p discs. Hard to believe, but possible I guess. It may also be applying some image processing tricks that make the image less accurate but look better to most people -- maybe kind of like how Bose speakers work (less accurate but the psychoacoustic trickery they use makes them sound better to many people). I guess it is another place where MadVR dominates, the exception to the rule.

But the original discussion was not really about MadVR and downscaling, but rather, why the Epson 4k Enhancement / upscale to 4 million pixels of a 1080p source looks less sharp than the Epson downscale to 4 million pixels of a 4k source. It seems your experience with MadVR is in agreement with the original poster's experience with the Epson scaling: a 1080p source (whether upscaled to 4 million pixels on the Epson or displayed natively) looks less sharp than a 4k source (whether downscaled to 4 million pixels on the Epson or downscaled to 1080p by MadVR). If the Epson could (or did) downscale 4k to 1080p (it can't), since it doesn't have all of MadVRs algorithms and image processing horsepower, would probably look worse than the studio produced 1080p disc.


----------



## bennyjammin

New 6050 owner here. Does anyone have calibration settings for a 6050 on the medium power setting? I notice that Alaric’s settings are for high power and the fan is way too loud for me in this mode. Or would most of those setting still hold in a medium power setting? If not, which ones would not be affected? Thanks!


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## aeneas01

noob00224 said:


> On an 1080p display, with madvr, 1080p blu rays always look softer and less defined than downscaled 4K.
> 
> To get closer to what the 4K downscaled image looks like image enhancements have to be used (in madvr).
> 
> Definitely happens on 4K and 1080p bluray's of Avengers Endgame, and have never had to use madvr's enhancements on a 4K source. It always looks sharper.
> 
> Search for Image Enhancements in the guide and check out the examples:
> https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188
> 
> Maybe it's unique to some of madvr's algorithms. I guess it depends on what algorithm does the downscaling.


 madvr is such a rabbit hole, a wonderful rabbit hole... just when i thought i finally had my htpc + 6050ub set up to where i wanted it, to where i was finally happy, i stumbled across downscaling my 4k rips to 1080p using madvr and then applying madvr's hdr tone mapping... good grief, the early results have been fantastic and i just may end up sticking with it, especially given the added benefits which include being able to use many more madvr settings given downscaling 4k apparently requires much less load than upscaling 1080p to 4k, and with the 4k downscaled rip i can use the epson's interpolation option (yeah, most probably wouldn't want to watch movies with me) and/or use the epson's 4k enhancement on the signal... moreover i can leave windows in sdr mode (hdr toggled off ) and easily stream 1080p content in 4k enhancement mode, everything looks great instead of washed out because i have hdr toggled on... also, i'm no longer dealing with annoying handshake / sync issues as the pj tries to negotiate hdr / sdr from my htpc... anyway, still a lot of tinkering to do, but so far i'm really liking what i'm seeing.




Jmouse007 said:


> Looking for recommendations for an active 2.0b HDMI 4K cable for a 30ft run from our ONKYO PR-RZ5100 AV processor to our new (just ordered) Epson 6050UB 4k projector.


tried at least 4 different 30'+ active cables in the $100+ range and they all let me down (thank goodness for solid return policies), i would get a signal for a few seconds and then it was gone, i then purchased the blue jeans 50' bjc series-3a active cable and it has been rock solid since day one... i will say tho, most of the other cables i tried were very elegant, thin, and a dream to use behind components if space is an issue, comparatively the blue jean cable is a beast, it's much thicker than the others and relatively stiff.


----------



## zambine

*Coming from DLP need help!*

Hi all, 

For the last 7-8 years I have owned DLP projectors. I moved to 4K a couple years ago when BenQ introduced the HT2550. I am looking to upgrade to mid-tier PJs as I have a dedicated theater room that is light controlled, dark matte paint on all walls, and a 120" screen that has the MLP 10 1/2 feet away.

The 5050ub checks every one of my boxes for this upgrade EXCEPT I am super worried about other previous 4K DLP owners with similar setups who have reviewed it and found the 2K resolution to be lacking.

My current use case is 60% movies/40% video games (some FPS but not much). Also about 90% of the content I project is 4K and most of the time has HDR.

From what I have gathered from reading this thread and others on the BenQ HT3550/HT5550 the 5050ub may not work for me as I may be disappointed in the drop in sharpness compared to my BenQ.

Can any current owners comment on my thinking here? Is it correct or incorrect?  

I would like to avoid having to return a PJ and hope to get the choice correct the first time. The other PJ I'm looking at hard is the HT5550. Thanks!


----------



## Luminated67

bennyjammin said:


> New 6050 owner here. Does anyone have calibration settings for a 6050 on the medium power setting? I notice that Alaric’s settings are for high power and the fan is way too loud for me in this mode. Or would most of those setting still hold in a medium power setting? If not, which ones would not be affected? Thanks!


Why not try the settings in medium lamp mode and see what you think, ultimately these settings of Alaric’s are for his projector in his room on his screen and with his zoom settings.... so what I am basically saying is these probably won’t be accurate for your setup anyway so switch lamp mode won’t really be that critical.


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## ivanhoek

zambine said:


> Hi all,
> 
> 
> 
> For the last 7-8 years I have owned DLP projectors. I moved to 4K a couple years ago when BenQ introduced the HT2550. I am looking to upgrade to mid-tier PJs as I have a dedicated theater room that is light controlled, dark matte paint on all walls, and a 120" screen that has the MLP 10 1/2 feet away.
> 
> 
> 
> The 5050ub checks every one of my boxes for this upgrade EXCEPT I am super worried about other previous 4K DLP owners with similar setups who have reviewed it and found the 2K resolution to be lacking.
> 
> 
> 
> My current use case is 60% movies/40% video games (some FPS but not much). Also about 90% of the content I project is 4K and most of the time has HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> From what I have gathered from reading this thread and others on the BenQ HT3550/HT5550 the 5050ub may not work for me as I may be disappointed in the drop in sharpness compared to my BenQ.
> 
> 
> 
> Can any current owners comment on my thinking here? Is it correct or incorrect?
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to avoid having to return a PJ and hope to get the choice correct the first time. The other PJ I'm looking at hard is the HT5550. Thanks!




I went from the Optoma UHD60 to the Epson 5050 and despite the pixel count, the Epson looks better.

This holds true in video, games and even PC use. I think the optics on the Epson are better and with projection, that also plays into sharpness.

I run my PC at 1440p scaling (4K signal) and text is razor sharp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## zambine

ivanhoek said:


> I went from the Optoma UHD60 to the Epson 5050 and despite the pixel count, the Epson looks better.
> 
> This holds true in video, games and even PC use. I think the optics on the Epson are better and with projection, that also plays into sharpness.
> 
> I run my PC at 1440p scaling (4K signal) and text is razor sharp.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That definitely puts me at ease a bit more to give the 5050ub a try. I am really leaning towards the Epson for the higher light output, better contrast/black levels, and way better input lag for gaming.

I'm just so stubborn minded when it comes to upgrading my electronics. It's hard for me to rationalize spending double what I currently have invested on my projector for half of the resolution but I am getting there.


----------



## ivanhoek

zambine said:


> That definitely puts me at ease a bit more to give the 5050ub a try. I am really leaning towards the Epson for the higher light output, better contrast/black levels, and way better input lag for gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just so stubborn minded when it comes to upgrading my electronics. It's hard for me to rationalize spending double what I currently have invested on my projector for half of the resolution but I am getting there.




What drove me to that is all the color processing bugs on the Optoma side. It’s a big step up in processing quality on the Epson side imo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DarrinH

I bought old used Samsung SSG-5100GB 3D glasses off ebay that were scratched and missing the battery doors to test with a used copy of Avatar. Wow did it look good. Don't pay high amounts for new glasses.


----------



## Luminated67

ivanhoek said:


> I went from the Optoma UHD60 to the Epson 5050 and despite the pixel count, the Epson looks better.
> 
> This holds true in video, games and even PC use. I think the optics on the Epson are better and with projection, that also plays into sharpness.
> 
> I run my PC at 1440p scaling (4K signal) and text is razor sharp.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It’s solely my opinion and everyone is entitled to a different opinion but for me the Epson throws a more believable image than the Optoma UHD60, colour and blacks are more convincing and to me these are far and a way more important than sharpness but even here I’m yet to be convinced that we need anything better than what the Epson offers, at least this is true when watched from normal viewing distances.


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## Luminated67

Duplicate post


----------



## biglen

aeneas01 said:


> madvr is such a rabbit hole, a wonderful rabbit hole... just when i thought i finally had my htpc + 6050ub set up to where i wanted it, to where i was finally happy, i stumbled across downscaling my 4k rips to 1080p using madvr and then applying madvr's hdr tone mapping... good grief, the early results have been fantastic and i just may end up sticking with it, especially given the added benefits which include being able to use many more madvr settings given downscaling 4k apparently requires much less load than upscaling 1080p to 4k, and with the 4k downscaled rip i can use the epson's interpolation option (yeah, most probably wouldn't want to watch movies with me) and/or use the epson's 4k enhancement on the signal... moreover i can leave windows in sdr mode (hdr toggled off ) and easily stream 1080p content in 4k enhancement mode, everything looks great instead of washed out because i have hdr toggled on... also, i'm no longer dealing with annoying handshake / sync issues as the pj tries to negotiate hdr / sdr from my htpc... anyway, still a lot of tinkering to do, but so far i'm really liking what i'm seeing.
> 
> 
> 
> tried at least 4 different 30'+ active cables in the $100+ range and they all let me down (thank goodness for solid return policies), i would get a signal for a few seconds and then it was gone, i then purchased the blue jeans 50' bjc series-3a active cable and it has been rock solid since day one... i will say tho, most of the other cables i tried were very elegant, thin, and a dream to use behind components if space is an issue, comparatively the blue jean cable is a beast, it's much thicker than the others and relatively stiff.


It seems so weird to hear someone wanting to downscale a 4k movie, to 1080p. I would think you were going backwards in image quality. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## kincade

Working on wrapping up my theater and hoping someone can double-check my understanding of the 6050's vertical shift capabilities?


My room has 91" from floor to ceiling, will have a 120" 16X9 screen starting at 24" below the floor with 59" of height. That leaves 8" from top of screen to ceiling.


If the 6050 has 96% vertical offset capabilities, would this mean I can mount it 56.64" above or below the center of the screen (59*.96=56.64)? And by that math, I should be able to use my included Chief mount and mount it directly to the ceiling rather than using the included 6" extension column? This would put the center of the lens 6 3/4" below the ceiling (center of lens above the screen 1 1/4"), but I'd like to preserve as much head space as I can with such low ceilings.


Secondly I'm wondering if the Ruipro HDMI cable is still the preferred option for longer HDMI cable runs? My cable will be 30-35' which I understand to be near the upper limit of regular HDMI 4k cables. I've read good thing about the Blue Jeans 3A but is so less expensive than the Ruipro that I wonder if it is as good?


Thank you for any advice you can give!


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## skylarlove1999

kincade said:


> Working on wrapping up my theater and hoping someone can double-check my understanding of the 6050's vertical shift capabilities?
> 
> 
> My room has 91" from floor to ceiling, will have a 120" 16X9 screen starting at 24" below the floor with 59" of height. That leaves 8" from top of screen to ceiling.
> 
> 
> If the 6050 has 96% vertical offset capabilities, would this mean I can mount it 56.64" above or below the center of the screen (59*.96=56.64)? And by that math, I should be able to use my included Chief mount and mount it directly to the ceiling rather than using the included 6" extension column? This would put the center of the lens 6 3/4" below the ceiling (center of lens above the screen 1 1/4"), but I'd like to preserve as much head space as I can with such low ceilings.
> 
> 
> Secondly I'm wondering if the Ruipro HDMI cable is still the preferred option for longer HDMI cable runs? My cable will be 30-35' which I understand to be near the upper limit of regular HDMI 4k cables. I've read good thing about the Blue Jeans 3A but is so less expensive than the Ruipro that I wonder if it is as good?
> 
> 
> Thank you for any advice you can give!


You sound you like a seasoned professional. Will you be using any horizontal shift? You would have to be at the end of the horizontal shift capability to still run into any issue with the vertical lens shift capability in your situation.

Many people have had great success with the Blue Jeans cables. They are more rigid and less likely to be damaged but also harder to bend. The Ruipro is more delicate so easier to bend but more likely to be damaged and you cannot bend it more than 90 degrees. So up to you which you choose. 

Ruipro does have an 8k cable that doesn't cost much more. It supports 48gbps. Up to you if you want to purchase that cable. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## kincade

skylarlove1999 said:


> You sound you like a seasoned professional. Will you be using any horizontal shift? You would have to be at the end of the horizontal shift capability to still run into any issue with the vertical lens shift capability in your situation.
> 
> Many people have had great success with the Blue Jeans cables. They are more rigid and less likely to be damaged but also harder to bend. The Ruipro is more delicate so easier to bend but more likely to be damaged and you cannot bend it more than 90 degrees. So up to you which you choose.
> 
> Ruipro does have an 8k cable that doesn't cost much more. It supports 48gbps. Up to you if you want to purchase that cable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the compliment and the feedback! I assure you that I'm a complete newbie to projection - still very much trying to figure everything out and learn as much as I can and scared to death that I'm going to mess something up.

My plan is to mount the lens exactly center in the room, where the screen will be centered as well. If I'm understanding horizontal shift correctly, then I would not be using any of that capability. Does that sound correct?

I was just reading the HDMI Cables Performance evaluation report from AVS - and I couldn't even find the BJC in there. The Monoprice seemed to test well.

Thanks for the tip on the 8k - I suppose the only advantage would be future proofing?

Would this be the correct 8k?:

https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-Displ...aWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1


----------



## skylarlove1999

kincade said:


> Thanks for the compliment and the feedback! I assure you that I'm a complete newbie to projection - still very much trying to figure everything out and learn as much as I can and scared to death that I'm going to mess something up.
> 
> My plan is to mount the lens exactly center in the room, where the screen will be centered as well. If I'm understanding horizontal shift correctly, then I would not be using any of that capability. Does that sound correct?
> 
> I was just reading the HDMI Cables Performance evaluation report from AVS - and I couldn't even find the BJC in there. The Monoprice seemed to test well.
> 
> Thanks for the tip on the 8k - I suppose the only advantage would be future proofing?
> 
> Would this be the correct 8k?:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/RUIPRO-Displ...aWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1


Yes mounting in the center horizontally of your screen means you will be using zero horizontal shift. This is the cable I have seen listed in the JVC 4K projector threads. You are doing a great job of double checking. You are spot on. I would run your HDMI in conduit if possible so it is easier to swap out should the need arise. 



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## lycokayaker

Hey gang


I just purchased a 5050ub about a month ago and looking to purchase my first 4K blu ray player. I’m a newcomer to this world and found the Panasonic 820 and 9000. I found on other threads the 9000 has an option for hdr to get you a lower Nit rating down to 350-nit Would that benefit me with the 5050ub or does that not help that much and it’s better to save the extra 500 and buy the 820 and spend the money on popcorn Movies booze speakers etc


----------



## audiophobe

jch2 said:


> If the Epson could (or did) downscale 4k to 1080p (it can't), since it doesn't have all of MadVRs algorithms and image processing horsepower, would probably look worse than the studio produced 1080p disc.


I doubt that, because the studio 1080 disc has only 960x540 color resolution (at 4:2:0) and half the bitrate of the 4K disc.
The high compression ratio costs a lot of image quality, so much that the difference between the definition matrix (2K/4K) is now less significant than it used to be (720 vs. 1080..).


----------



## AVTimme

I love my new TW9400 and the digital cinema in high mode is amazing 

But, what is the difference between cinema mode and digital cinema?


----------



## noob00224

@jch2
All the reviews say the filter is enabled on Digital Cinema and Cinema.

If you look at the measurements taken B&W Cinema is close to Natural and Bright Cinema. The Digital Cinema and Cinema both stall around 1000 lumens, even on High lamp:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm


----------



## AVTimme

noob00224 said:


> @jch2
> All the reviews say the filter is enabled on Digital Cinema and Cinema.
> 
> If you look at the measurements taken B&W Cinema is close to Natural and Bright Cinema. The Digital Cinema and Cinema both stall around 1000 lumens, even on High lamp:
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm


But what is the difference between cinema and digital cinema?


----------



## kincade

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes mounting in the center horizontally of your screen means you will be using zero horizontal shift. This is the cable I have seen listed in the JVC 4K projector threads. You are doing a great job of double checking. You are spot on. I would run your HDMI in conduit if possible so it is easier to swap out should the need arise.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you for the input - I appreciate it.

So I should be ok mounting the projector a few inches above the screen which will greatly improve the usability of the room for our taller guests.

I did run flexible conduit through the room to ease the install of this (thankfully)!


----------



## Luminated67

AVTimme said:


> But what is the difference between cinema and digital cinema?


I genuinely don’t know and would love to hear what the difference is too because my calibrator used CINEMA to calibrate for HDR.

BTW watch the new Godzilla movie and honestly I am amazed every time I watch something on this projector, £2.5K isn’t cheap but it’s worth every penny for the image it throws.


----------



## skylarlove1999

kincade said:


> Thank you for the input - I appreciate it.
> 
> So I should be ok mounting the projector a few inches above the screen which will greatly improve the usability of the room for our taller guests.
> 
> I did run flexible conduit through the room to ease the install of this (thankfully)!


Yes you can mount as close to the ceiling as you can get. You will be fine.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I genuinely don’t know and would love to hear what the difference is too because my calibrator used CINEMA to calibrate for HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW watch the new Godzilla movie and honestly I am amazed every time I watch something on this projector, £2.5K isn’t cheap but it’s worth every penny for the image it throws.


Natural will give your significantly more lumens since the the color filter for the DCI-P3 color space will be not in place like it is when using Digital Cinema or Cinema . The filter will give you almost 100% of the DCI-P3 color space while Natural will provide around 85% . Many prefer the additional brightness you can get without the filter in place. The filter drops the lumens by about 1100 lumens. I have seen many calibrators use Natutral when calibrating for HDR content for the added brightness. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

skylarlove1999 said:


> Cinema will give your significantly more lumens since the the color filter for the DCI-P3 color space will be not in place like it is when using Digital Cinema . The filter will give you almost 100% of the DCI-P3 color space while Cinema will provide around 85% . Many prefer the additional brightness you can get without the filter in place. The filter drops the lumens by about 1100 lumens. I have seen many calibrators use Natutral when calibrating for HDR content.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


From the review linked above Digital Cinema and Cinema have the filter on, and don't go over 1000 or so nits. The other modes don't have the filter.



AVTimme said:


> But what is the difference between cinema and digital cinema?


Not sure.
You can check the reviews for the HC4000/TW7300, HC4010/TW7400, 5040/6040UB / TW9300, 5050/6050UB / TW9400, or the threads for them.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-467.html#post56060054


----------



## skylarlove1999

noob00224 said:


> From the review linked above Digital Cinema and Cinema have the filter on, and don't go over 1000 or so nits. The other modes don't have the filter.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure.
> You can check the reviews for the HC4000/TW7300, HC4010/TW7400, 5040/6040UB / TW9300, 5050/6050UB / TW9400, or the threads for them.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-467.html#post56060054


Thank you it makes more sense that both use the filter although at the Epson 6050 unveiling in May 2019 , Epson stated only the Digital Cinema used the filter but Epson has been wrong before about their own projectors 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## AVTimme

skylarlove1999 said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I genuinely donâ€™️t know and would love to hear what the difference is too because my calibrator used CINEMA to calibrate for HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW watch the new Godzilla movie and honestly I am amazed every time I watch something on this projector, Â£2.5K isnâ€™️t cheap but itâ€™️s worth every penny for the image it throws.
> 
> 
> 
> Cinema will give your significantly more lumens since the the color filter for the DCI-P3 color space will be not in place like it is when using Digital Cinema . The filter will give you almost 100% of the DCI-P3 color space while Cinema will provide around 85% . Many prefer the additional brightness you can get without the filter in place. The filter drops the lumens by about 1100 lumens. I have seen many calibrators use Natutral when calibrating for HDR content.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That is incorrect. Both cinema and digital cinema has the full DCI-P3 so I still wonder what the difference is between them 😕 Ill guess I’ll have to ask Epson


----------



## skylarlove1999

AVTimme said:


> That is incorrect. Both cinema and digital cinema has the full DCI-P3 so I still wonder what the difference is between them 😕 Ill guess I’ll have to ask Epson


 I assumed what Epson stated about only Digital Cinema using the filter at the unveiling of the 6050 in May of last year was accurate. Obviously Espon and I were both wrong. So you might not want to ask Epson about the difference 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

AVTimme said:


> That is incorrect. Both cinema and digital cinema has the full DCI-P3 so I still wonder what the difference is between them 😕 Ill guess I’ll have to ask Epson


I wonder if Cinema was meant for older content created on film like Braveheart and Digital Cinema was meant for newer content shot using digital cameras . Purely speculation. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Natural will give your significantly more lumens since the the color filter for the DCI-P3 color space will be not in place like it is when using Digital Cinema or Cinema . The filter will give you almost 100% of the DCI-P3 color space while Natural will provide around 85% . Many prefer the additional brightness you can get without the filter in place. The filter drops the lumens by about 1100 lumens. I have seen many calibrators use Natutral when calibrating for HDR content for the added brightness.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I already know all of this but that doesn’t explain what or if there is a difference between CINEMA and DIGITAL CINEMA.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I already know all of this but that doesn’t explain what or if there is a difference between CINEMA and DIGITAL CINEMA.


Sorry 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## lycokayaker

can anyone help me out with this?



lycokayaker said:


> Hey gang
> 
> 
> I just purchased a 5050ub about a month ago and looking to purchase my first 4K blu ray player. I’m a newcomer to this world and found the Panasonic 820 and 9000. I found on other threads the 9000 has an option for hdr to get you a lower Nit rating down to 350-nit Would that benefit me with the 5050ub or does that not help that much and it’s better to save the extra 500 and buy the 820 and spend the money on popcorn Movies booze speakers etc


----------



## skylarlove1999

lycokayaker said:


> can anyone help me out with this?


Buy the Panasonic 420 . The 820 adds Dolby Vision which projectors do not support. The 350 nits target is nice instead of the 500 nits you get with the 420 and 820. It provides a little better optimization of HDR content for projectors but not a night and day difference. The 5050 and the Panasonic player have a slider to make adjustments while watching HDR content. Save your money.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gene4ht

lycokayaker said:


> can anyone help me out with this?


Unless you’re a “tinkerer” and want to maximize HDR performance through additional software and hardware investments, a simple and very acceptable solution is as you suggest...a Panasonic 820 or 9000 player. However, in terms of value and equivalent performance and capability, the current recommendation is Panasonic’s 420...especially at its current sale price at most major retailers. The 420 is everything the 820 is minus Dolby Vision (DV) but this is moot since the 5050 is not DV capable.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_133UB420K/Panasonic-DP-UB420.html


----------



## HTX^2steve

Luminated67 said:


> I genuinely don’t know and would love to hear what the difference is too because my calibrator used CINEMA to calibrate for HDR.
> 
> BTW watch the new Godzilla movie and honestly I am amazed every time I watch something on this projector, £2.5K isn’t cheap but it’s worth every penny for the image it throws.


If you haven't already watch that transformers movie "The Last Knight" or "Avatar" or "The Lion King" hell...they are all good with this projector.


----------



## AVTimme

skylarlove1999 said:


> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> That is incorrect. Both cinema and digital cinema has the full DCI-P3 so I still wonder what the difference is between them ðŸ˜• Ill guess Iâ€™️ll have to ask Epson
> 
> 
> 
> I assumed what Epson stated about only Digital Cinema using the filter at the unveiling of the 6050 in May of last year was accurate. Obviously Espon and I were both wrong. So you might not want to ask Epson about the difference
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Haha then I’ll guess I won’t ask them lol!


----------



## AVTimme

Does any of you guys know why Epson left the LS10500 and went with the 5050 and 6050 as their flagship model?


----------



## Luminated67

AVTimme said:


> Does any of you guys know why Epson left the LS10500 and went with the 5050 and 6050 as their flagship model?


There’s always a possibility that Epson will release a replacement for the LS but I can’t see it coming without being native 4K and then you will be looking at a price closer to $8K at least.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> There’s always a possibility that Epson will release a replacement for the LS but I can’t see it coming without being native 4K and then you will be looking at a price closer to $8K at least.


For a Flaghip and probably only native 4K Laser projector in the Epson lineup I would think the price tag would be north of $10k. Unfortunately probably well north, which is why I strongly suspect if Epson does introduce a native 4K projector it will be lamp based, not laser. Their first foray into laser projectors was well reviewed but did not sell enough units , hence the discontinuation of the product. I am not sold on Epson bringing native 4K to the market. They have invested a considerable amount time and effort into their current design technology. As you know at the price point for these projectors, it is really challenging to compete with the Epson 5050/6050.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

skylarlove1999 said:


> For a Flaghip and probably only native 4K Laser projector in the Epson lineup I would think the price tag would be north of $10k. Unfortunately probably well north, which is why I strongly suspect if Epson does introduce a native 4K projector it will be lamp based, not laser. Their first foray into laser projectors was well reviewed but did not sell enough units , hence the discontinuation of the product. I am not sold on Epson bringing native 4K to the market. They have invested a considerable amount time and effort into their current design technology. As you know at the price point for these projectors, it is really challenging to compete with the Epson 5050/6050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


They're probably waiting for the production costs to drop on laser designs and that's when they'll introduce one that can be marketed in place of the 5050 near its price point. I think if they can get to a markup of 50% or less vs the 5050 price, guys would gladly pay to make the jump. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Mark Prusak

Help with placement and lens shift calculation.

I am hoping to upgrade to the 5050 and having always had DLP projectors, lens shift is a bit of a foreign concept to me 😊

I’m trying to determine if a particular spot in my room will work for my situation. I have tried the various calculators, but just not certain I understand the lens shift component of them correctly. Hoping someone can confirm either way.

Screen is 142” 2.35:1 (131" wide / 56" h)
Top of screen is 10” below the ceiling

16:9 is 100” wide / 114” diag (56” h)
Zoomed 16:9 (for scope) is 131” wide / 150” diag

The projector will be mounted on a shelf on the back wall at 19.5’
Fitting both screen sizes from this distance appears to be just fine.

Where I get confused is on the lens shift. The spot that I would ideally like to set the projector would have the lens approximately 30” horizontally off-center and about 15” below the ceiling (i.e. about 5” below the top of the screen). I could go a bit lower even if needed.

I don’t really understand what 96% vertical and 47% horizontal lens shift means. Is this 96% of the height and 47% of the width?
If so, does that mean I can shift down 96% of 56" or about 53 3/4"? And likewise, 47% of 100" width or 47"?
Does the zooming have any impact on these numbers?

Bottom line, will this work (5" below top of screen, 30" off-center to the right at 19.5')?

Thank you for any assistance or for pointing me in the right direction.


----------



## AVTimme

Luminated67 said:


> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does any of you guys know why Epson left the LS10500 and went with the 5050 and 6050 as their flagship model?
> 
> 
> 
> Thereâ€™️s always a possibility that Epson will release a replacement for the LS but I canâ€™️t see it coming without being native 4K and then you will be looking at a price closer to $8K at least.
Click to expand...

Yea that seems about right!


----------



## AVTimme

DavidinGA said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> For a Flaghip and probably only native 4K Laser projector in the Epson lineup I would think the price tag would be north of $10k. Unfortunately probably well north, which is why I strongly suspect if Epson does introduce a native 4K projector it will be lamp based, not laser. Their first foray into laser projectors was well reviewed but did not sell enough units , hence the discontinuation of the product. I am not sold on Epson bringing native 4K to the market. They have invested a considerable amount time and effort into their current design technology. As you know at the price point for these projectors, it is really challenging to compete with the Epson 5050/6050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> They're probably waiting for the production costs to drop on laser designs and that's when they'll introduce one that can be marketed in place of the 5050 near its price point. I think if they can get to a markup of 50% or less vs the 5050 price, guys would gladly pay to make the jump.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It would be cool with a lasar engine for sure
Wonder when 0_o


----------



## DavidinGA

AVTimme said:


> It would be cool with a lasar engine for sure
> Wonder when 0_o


Not soon enough...


Probably 3+ years at the rate they seem to be going


----------



## CrazyCanuck69

*3D Options greyed out - Why?*

Hi All. Just finished setting up my new 5050 - first off, wow. I'm already blown away and haven't even started digging into calibrations. But I was excited to try some 3d, and for some reason it's not available. Source is my PC, going through a Denon 3600. Glasses are paired. Switched the PC to 1080 resolution and tried 3 different players (VLC, Windows Media Player and the default Movie app in windows) no change.
Thoughts?


----------



## ivanhoek

CrazyCanuck69 said:


> Hi All. Just finished setting up my new 5050 - first off, wow. I'm already blown away and haven't even started digging into calibrations. But I was excited to try some 3d, and for some reason it's not available. Source is my PC, going through a Denon 3600. Glasses are paired. Switched the PC to 1080 resolution and tried 3 different players (VLC, Windows Media Player and the default Movie app in windows) no change.
> 
> Thoughts?




I think Nvidia removed 3D support from their drivers. What video card are you using?

Also, not all players support 3D. The projector will detect 3D from a 3D Blu-ray player though.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## DarrinH

CrazyCanuck69 said:


> Hi All. Just finished setting up my new 5050 - first off, wow. I'm already blown away and haven't even started digging into calibrations. But I was excited to try some 3d, and for some reason it's not available. Source is my PC, going through a Denon 3600. Glasses are paired. Switched the PC to 1080 resolution and tried 3 different players (VLC, Windows Media Player and the default Movie app in windows) no change.
> Thoughts?


Did you force the Epson into 3D mode via the menu?


----------



## DarrinH

I may be in the market for a new blue ray player in order to take advantage of the UB5050 HDMI CEC control so that I can use the buttons on the Epson remote to control the player. Anyone here have that setup currently?


----------



## Luminated67

DarrinH said:


> I may be in the market for a new blue ray player in order to take advantage of the UB5050 HDMI CEC control so that I can use the buttons on the Epson remote to control the player. Anyone here have that setup currently?


My Epson remote controls all my equipment, some more basically than others. Both Bluray players it seems to control most things and definitely enough not to need to lift the dedicated remote, the AVR is mainly just the volume but my AVR auto detects the source so don’t really need to use its remote unless switching surround setup etc.


----------



## DarrinH

Luminated67 said:


> My Epson remote controls all my equipment, some more basically than others. Both Bluray players it seems to control most things and definitely enough not to need to lift the dedicated remote, the AVR is mainly just the volume but my AVR auto detects the source so don’t really need to use its remote unless switching surround setup etc.


Wish I had the same luck. I am running a Denon 1908 currently and a Sony UBP-X700. The Sony should have the following controls showing up in the Epson function but that is very limited control. Any suggestions for a better player?


----------



## lycokayaker

thanks... saving money for movies popcorn and booze...



skylarlove1999 said:


> Buy the Panasonic 420 . The 820 adds Dolby Vision which projectors do not support. The 350 nits target is nice instead of the 500 nits you get with the 420 and 820. It provides a little better optimization of HDR content for projectors but not a night and day difference. The 5050 and the Panasonic player have a slider to make adjustments while watching HDR content. Save your money.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

Mark Prusak said:


> Help with placement and lens shift calculation.
> 
> I am hoping to upgrade to the 5050 and having always had DLP projectors, lens shift is a bit of a foreign concept to me 😊
> 
> I’m trying to determine if a particular spot in my room will work for my situation. I have tried the various calculators, but just not certain I understand the lens shift component of them correctly. Hoping someone can confirm either way.
> 
> Screen is 142” 2.35:1 (131" wide / 56" h)
> Top of screen is 10” below the ceiling
> 
> 16:9 is 100” wide / 114” diag (56” h)
> Zoomed 16:9 (for scope) is 131” wide / 150” diag
> 
> The projector will be mounted on a shelf on the back wall at 19.5’
> Fitting both screen sizes from this distance appears to be just fine.
> 
> Where I get confused is on the lens shift. The spot that I would ideally like to set the projector would have the lens approximately 30” horizontally off-center and about 15” below the ceiling (i.e. about 5” below the top of the screen). I could go a bit lower even if needed.
> 
> I don’t really understand what 96% vertical and 47% horizontal lens shift means. Is this 96% of the height and 47% of the width?
> If so, does that mean I can shift down 96% of 56" or about 53 3/4"? And likewise, 47% of 100" width or 47"?
> Does the zooming have any impact on these numbers?
> 
> Bottom line, will this work (5" below top of screen, 30" off-center to the right at 19.5')?
> 
> Thank you for any assistance or for pointing me in the right direction.


Yes you have it right as long as you know the default location is in the center of the screen. With the projector 5" below the top of the screen you will need to use a little less then 50% (50% would put it at exactly the top of the screen) of the 96% available vertical shift. But here is where it gets tricky as the more horizontal shift you use it decreases the available vertical shift and vise versa. I don't know if 30" horizontal shift will put you outside the needed vertical shift range.

I find this shift calculator easy to understand so it should help.
http://www.reviewtranslations.com/projection_calculator_en.html

EDIT: plugging in your #'s looks like it just barely doesn't work, but lowering the projector a few inches might work. Check all your measurements to the inch and expect some variance in each individual projector so leave some room for error.


----------



## AVTimme

I have a hard time choosing between Natural medium lamp and digital cinema high lamp 😕 

It’s nice to have it so bright and it still being in medium lamp but the deeper color and contrast makes it hard to ignore the digital cinema!


----------



## Luminated67

DarrinH said:


> Wish I had the same luck. I am running a Denon 1908 currently and a Sony UBP-X700. The Sony should have the following controls showing up in the Epson function but that is very limited control. Any suggestions for a better player?


I have the same Sony player,


----------



## Luminated67

DarrinH said:


> Wish I had the same luck. I am running a Denon 1908 currently and a Sony UBP-X700. The Sony should have the following controls showing up in the Epson function but that is very limited control. Any suggestions for a better player?


I have the same Sony player and previously I had the Denon 2400h AVR, when I turned on my Epson it would turn on the BluRay player and AVR at the same time and select this as the source but then again I always have my Sky box turned off in the movie room as it only allows main unit + 2 slaves.


----------



## Mark Prusak

rekbones said:


> Yes you have it right as long as you know the default location is in the center of the screen. With the projector 5" below the top of the screen you will need to use a little less then 50% (50% would put it at exactly the top of the screen) of the 96% available vertical shift. But here is where it gets tricky as the more horizontal shift you use it decreases the available vertical shift and vise versa. I don't know if 30" horizontal shift will put you outside the needed vertical shift range.
> 
> I find this shift calculator easy to understand so it should help.
> 
> 
> EDIT: plugging in your #'s looks like it just barely doesn't work, but lowering the projector a few inches might work. Check all your measurements to the inch and expect some variance in each individual projector so leave some room for error.


Thank you for the reply and the link. When I went to that site, I remembered seeing it before. I guess I just never had the need for it before so didn't fully comprehend what a powerful tool it is. Just a brilliant calculator.

And yes, I see the "stop sign" limitation as you use lens shift in one direction, you lose range in the other.

I am seeing the same thing...definitely pushing the very edges of what would work and probably just outside. I think I'm going to shift it over into a safer zone. I was really hoping to have it line up with my equipment rack, but I'll have to live with it being off-center (relative to the rack), but closer to centered on the screen.

Thanks again for taking the time to double-check my thought process.


----------



## jch2

AVTimme said:


> I have a hard time choosing between Natural medium lamp and digital cinema high lamp 😕
> 
> It’s nice to have it so bright and it still being in medium lamp but the deeper color and contrast makes it hard to ignore the digital cinema!


For HDR content, same here (Natural/Medium and Digital Cinema/High both look great) but with auto-iris enabled (it's off by default in Natural). I tend to gravitate towards Digital Cinema/High more frequently though.

For SDR, Natural/Medium all the way. The expanded color space of Digital Cinema interferes with SDR content.


----------



## AVTimme

jch2 said:


> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a hard time choosing between Natural medium lamp and digital cinema high lamp 😕
> 
> It’s nice to have it so bright and it still being in medium lamp but the deeper color and contrast makes it hard to ignore the digital cinema!
> 
> 
> 
> For HDR content, same here (Natural/Medium and Digital Cinema/High both look great) but with auto-iris enabled (it's off by default in Natural). I tend to gravitate towards Digital Cinema/High more frequently though.
> 
> For SDR, Natural/Medium all the way. The expanded color space of Digital Cinema interferes with SDR content.
Click to expand...

In what Way does it interfere with SDR?


----------



## Luminated67

Took a few pics tonight 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u6h4yfkehmxho29/Photo 25-02-2020, 21 00 38.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z6xxkyhkkmq7v1a/Photo 25-02-2020, 21 00 42.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pk0jbpnmr2lg2ay/Photo 25-02-2020, 21 01 46.jpg?dl=0


----------



## AVTimme

Luminated67 said:


> Took a few pics tonight
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/u6h4yfkehmxho29/Photo 25-02-2020, 21 00 38.jpg?dl=0
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/z6xxkyhkkmq7v1a/Photo 25-02-2020, 21 00 42.jpg?dl=0
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pk0jbpnmr2lg2ay/Photo 25-02-2020, 21 01 46.jpg?dl=0


Just wow

What film/show is that? Are both digital cinema?


----------



## Luminated67

AVTimme said:


> Just wow
> 
> What film/show is that? Are both digital cinema?


YouTube 4K demo material and yes I’m using the filter... calibrated CINEMA mode.


----------



## travis1041

Luminated67 said:


> YouTube 4K demo material and yes I’m using the filter... calibrated CINEMA mode.


Did you calibrate it yourself or have someone do it?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jch2

AVTimme said:


> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a hard time choosing between Natural medium lamp and digital cinema high lamp 😕
> 
> It’s nice to have it so bright and it still being in medium lamp but the deeper color and contrast makes it hard to ignore the digital cinema!
> 
> 
> 
> For HDR content, same here (Natural/Medium and Digital Cinema/High both look great) but with auto-iris enabled (it's off by default in Natural). I tend to gravitate towards Digital Cinema/High more frequently though.
> 
> For SDR, Natural/Medium all the way. The expanded color space of Digital Cinema interferes with SDR content.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In what Way does it interfere with SDR?
Click to expand...

Colors tend to expand outward out of the Rec.709 colorspace into the Rec.2020 space, leaving colors a bit oversaturated. The reviewer on ProjectorCentral noticed the same thing. Most people tend to prefer oversaturated colors anyway (demos always have them for that reason). I prefer the more natural colors without the filter for SDR content.


----------



## WynsWrld98

CrazyCanuck69 said:


> Hi All. Just finished setting up my new 5050 - first off, wow. I'm already blown away and haven't even started digging into calibrations. But I was excited to try some 3d, and for some reason it's not available. Source is my PC, going through a Denon 3600. Glasses are paired. Switched the PC to 1080 resolution and tried 3 different players (VLC, Windows Media Player and the default Movie app in windows) no change.
> Thoughts?


You get the movie playing in 2D? I use PowerDVD Ultra 19 and I get 3D MKV MVC playback with my Epson 5040 with a HTPC with an AMD Radeon 5500 graphics card with Windows 10. I seem to recall if you do the trial of PowerDVD it is dumbed down and won't support 3D for whatever goofy reason.


----------



## hema8988

*Using high gain screen*

I understand the projector is pretty dull under Digital Cinema mode. Has anyone tried to project the 4K movies on a 1.3 or higher gain projector screen? Does it bring a noticeable difference comparing to a 0.9 or 1.0 gain screen?


----------



## jaredmwright

hema8988 said:


> I understand the projector is pretty dull under Digital Cinema mode. Has anyone tried to project the 4K movies on a 1.3 or higher gain projector screen? Does it bring a noticeable difference comparing to a 0.9 or 1.0 gain screen?


6050 here and when in Digital Cinema mode my projector is anything but dull. I find it bright and punchy, even in ECO mode after calibrating.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

hema8988 said:


> I understand the projector is pretty dull under Digital Cinema mode. Has anyone tried to project the 4K movies on a 1.3 or higher gain projector screen? Does it bring a noticeable difference comparing to a 0.9 or 1.0 gain screen?


I use Digital Cinema for all my HDR viewing. High lamp. Very saturated, bright and colors pop. Not sure who told you that Digital Cinema was dull.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

travis1041 said:


> Did you calibrate it yourself or have someone do it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Professionally done


----------



## Luminated67

hema8988 said:


> I understand the projector is pretty dull under Digital Cinema mode. Has anyone tried to project the 4K movies on a 1.3 or higher gain projector screen? Does it bring a noticeable difference comparing to a 0.9 or 1.0 gain screen?


Does this image look dull to you

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pk0jbpnmr2lg2ay/Photo 25-02-2020, 21 01 46.jpg?dl=0

I’m using Medium lamp and on this occasion the hdr slider is at 7.


----------



## dkcinema

I’m using Medium lamp and on this occasion the hdr slider is at 7.[/quote]

I feel like sometimes the pictures we see that people post up isn't always a true representation of how the projector looks in real like. For example there was a picture of some space scenes from a few pages back and from a computer monitor the blacks look very nice. But in reality the blacks never look as good as in the pictures posted. At least this is just my opinion.

And I think the same thing might be true with the pictures of how bright and vivid a brighter scene is when displayed on our projectors. Even with digital cinema and the lamp on high I never feel like I get the right amount of pop to the picture. And this is even on the HDR slider being at 2 like in Alaric's settings.

I don't see how I would ever get close to the brightness I want with the HDR slider being anywhere above 5 like some people have.

Unless someone thinks my 158" 1.1 gain Silver Ticket Cinescope screen is big to the point where I'm going make a big sacrifice in brightness for screen size.

I'll try to get up some pictures soon to how I see things on my screen. I'm not saying saying the picture is bad as I see a TON of nice contrast and shadow details look amazing depending on the scene. Especially the beginning part of Ad Astra I can see all sorts of dark scene details. This is also true in the scene in Infinity War where they first show the Guardians in space. The shadow details when they are in the ship look amazing.

I think the bottom line for me (and this might be because I have a large screen) is that I almost always leave my projector in Natural with Medium lamp (bc of noise) and leave my HDR slider to 2.

I'm very impressed with my the image I see on screen but I'll be realistic, it doesn't compare to my Vizio P series from a couple years ago in terms of overall picture. But nor should it. I just get the impression by seeing some posted pictures some people might get the misconception since some of these pictures almost look like a nice LED/OLED tv. I wouldn't want to be the person thinking about spending thousands on this projectors and thinking that the picture it throws up will be close to a good LED/OLED tv.


----------



## AVTimme

Luminated67 said:


> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just wow
> 
> What film/show is that? Are both digital cinema?
> 
> 
> 
> YouTube 4K demo material and yes Iâ€™️m using the filter... calibrated CINEMA mode.
Click to expand...

 Amazing.... simply Amazing 

Do you use Nvidea Shield to play youtube 4K? Apple TV doesn’t support YouTube 4K...


----------



## AVTimme

jch2 said:


> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jch2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AVTimme said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a hard time choosing between Natural medium lamp and digital cinema high lamp 😕
> 
> It’s nice to have it so bright and it still being in medium lamp but the deeper color and contrast makes it hard to ignore the digital cinema!
> 
> 
> 
> For HDR content, same here (Natural/Medium and Digital Cinema/High both look great) but with auto-iris enabled (it's off by default in Natural). I tend to gravitate towards Digital Cinema/High more frequently though.
> 
> For SDR, Natural/Medium all the way. The expanded color space of Digital Cinema interferes with SDR content.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In what Way does it interfere with SDR?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Colors tend to expand outward out of the Rec.709 colorspace into the Rec.2020 space, leaving colors a bit oversaturated. The reviewer on ProjectorCentral noticed the same thing. Most people tend to prefer oversaturated colors anyway (demos always have them for that reason). I prefer the more natural colors without the filter for SDR content.
Click to expand...

Thank you! No I won’t need to make up my mind which mode to use every time
I watch SDR!


----------



## AVTimme

dkcinema said:


> Iâ€™️m using Medium lamp and on this occasion the hdr slider is at 7.


I feel like sometimes the pictures we see that people post up isn't always a true representation of how the projector looks in real like. For example there was a picture of some space scenes from a few pages back and from a computer monitor the blacks look very nice. But in reality the blacks never look as good as in the pictures posted. At least this is just my opinion.

And I think the same thing might be true with the pictures of how bright and vivid a brighter scene is when displayed on our projectors. Even with digital cinema and the lamp on high I never feel like I get the right amount of pop to the picture. And this is even on the HDR slider being at 2 like in Alaric's settings.

I don't see how I would ever get close to the brightness I want with the HDR slider being anywhere above 5 like some people have.

Unless someone thinks my 158" 1.1 gain Silver Ticket Cinescope screen is big to the point where I'm going make a big sacrifice in brightness for screen size.

I'll try to get up some pictures soon to how I see things on my screen. I'm not saying saying the picture is bad as I see a TON of nice contrast and shadow details look amazing depending on the scene. Especially the beginning part of Ad Astra I can see all sorts of dark scene details. This is also true in the scene in Infinity War where they first show the Guardians in space. The shadow details when they are in the ship look amazing.

I think the bottom line for me (and this might be because I have a large screen) is that I almost always leave my projector in Natural with Medium lamp (bc of noise) and leave my HDR slider to 2.

I'm very impressed with my the image I see on screen but I'll be realistic, it doesn't compare to my Vizio P series from a couple years ago in terms of overall picture. But nor should it. I just get the impression by seeing some posted pictures some people might get the misconception since some of these pictures almost look like a nice LED/OLED tv. I wouldn't want to be the person thinking about spending thousands on this projectors and thinking that the picture it throws up will be close to a good LED/OLED tv.[/QUOTE]

I do think the picture is close to OLED (blushing) but I only have a 16:9 120 inch screen

Infinity war looks simply amazing I digital cinema. I use high lamp though


----------



## skylarlove1999

dkcinema said:


> I’m using Medium lamp and on this occasion the hdr slider is at 7.




I feel like sometimes the pictures we see that people post up isn't always a true representation of how the projector looks in real like. For example there was a picture of some space scenes from a few pages back and from a computer monitor the blacks look very nice. But in reality the blacks never look as good as in the pictures posted. At least this is just my opinion.



And I think the same thing might be true with the pictures of how bright and vivid a brighter scene is when displayed on our projectors. Even with digital cinema and the lamp on high I never feel like I get the right amount of pop to the picture. And this is even on the HDR slider being at 2 like in Alaric's settings.



I don't see how I would ever get close to the brightness I want with the HDR slider being anywhere above 5 like some people have.



Unless someone thinks my 158" 1.1 gain Silver Ticket Cinescope screen is big to the point where I'm going make a big sacrifice in brightness for screen size.



I'll try to get up some pictures soon to how I see things on my screen. I'm not saying saying the picture is bad as I see a TON of nice contrast and shadow details look amazing depending on the scene. Especially the beginning part of Ad Astra I can see all sorts of dark scene details. This is also true in the scene in Infinity War where they first show the Guardians in space. The shadow details when they are in the ship look amazing.



I think the bottom line for me (and this might be because I have a large screen) is that I almost always leave my projector in Natural with Medium lamp (bc of noise) and leave my HDR slider to 2.



I'm very impressed with my the image I see on screen but I'll be realistic, it doesn't compare to my Vizio P series from a couple years ago in terms of overall picture. But nor should it. I just get the impression by seeing some posted pictures some people might get the misconception since some of these pictures almost look like a nice LED/OLED tv. I wouldn't want to be the person thinking about spending thousands on this projectors and thinking that the picture it throws up will be close to a good LED/OLED tv.[/QUOTE]I think you partially answered your own question. Your 158 inch screen size because of the larger surface and how far back you have to place your projector to display that image is significantly impacting your actual lumens on screen. You are also not using the high lamp. So due to those choices you are having to set the slider at 2 from what you have stated. Obviously the higher the slider the brighter you are making the image but at the same time sacrificing your black levels. 

Your screen size is really the biggest factor working against you . But I am sure the immersion is worth the sacrifice to you. Even at smaller screen sizes say 120 inches the Epson 5050/6050 will be bested by an OLED or midrange LED television. As will any projector, the $500K Christie Eclipse notwithstanding. At a smaller screen size it will be a closer fight but projector will still lose. I agree that pictures sometimes don't provide the most accurate comparison. All that being said until a 120 inch television can be priced at $3K, folded up and then put back up into my theater I don't see any alternative for true cinema experience. Even an 80 inch television is not comparable and especially at your 158 inch screen size. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

@skylarlove1999 - Sorry I don't think I can quote your post yet since I'm too new lol. I'm a fairly new owner to the 6050ub. I've had the 5040ub for a month but ended up returning it and getting the 6050ub. So I've been lurking for a bit now and I appreciate everyone's opinion and contributions.

I do agree that my screen size definitely hurts brightness a bit for sure. Luckily I was able to place the projector as close as possible for my screen size on the ceiling less then 20' feet away so that helps a bit there.

I hope people don't get me wrong as I think the picture from my 6050ub is fantastic and skylarlove1999 would be right that the immersion level outweights black levels, brightness, etc of my Vizio P series tv. For the price I think you wont find anything better to throw up a over 100" picture.

I'm just simply trying to put in my 2 cents and mention that sometimes people will put up the most flattering picture of something they own. I'm first to admit that I have done that before. Or if someone asks you about something you bought and own you talk about it in the most flattering way. People ask me for advice on alot of things I own and I always try to present the negatives with the positives and let them make an informed decision.

I mention this because my last projector was probably over 10 years and it was an older Mitsubishi 1080p projector (don't even remember the model). So I just remember being in awe or the picture size back then. But I still knew the overall picture of my Samsung 1080p LED at the time blew it away.

Now that I have a nice finished 8ft ceiling basement I looked into projectors again. And after my research I decided the 5050ub/6050ub was the best I could find for this price. And I looked at all the reviews and pictures people posted up. And my honest opinion is that based on that, I thought my black levels would be better. But I know that I also don't have experience with comparable models to compare either. But I think this idea was implanted into my mind from review pictures etc. Even on a completely black image I thought the "black floor" would be better on the 6050ub especially with the Dynamic Iris on.

Now with this all said:

1. My 2016 65" Vizio P series destroys my 6050ub black levels
2. The HDR on my Vizio is much more dynamic and has much better contrast then my 6050ub
3. The Vizio has much better colors since I don't lose too much brightness compared to the 6050ub if I have to use the digital cinema filter

Would I rather watch my movies on my Vizio? Not a chance lol. I'm picking my 6050ub over the vizio. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.


----------



## Luminated67

@dkcinema I can only comment on my own experience but based on my 100” screen what you are seeing with my images are exactly like what I see at the time. I even go to the extreme of tweaking the image so it matches as I did when showing how the black bars top and bottom look, as in the image below.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmi8rla6xpkhz2t/Photo 01-01-2020, 19 48 55.jpg?dl=0

Admittedly my room is at the extreme of light control with all the walls and ceiling covered with black velour. I have even took video showing when pixel grid is visible to show potential owners just how good it actual is because there is a lot of misinformation posted on forums.






And just to show what difference a professional calibration makes compared to out of the box here’s a direct comparison of the same image. Top is out of the box and bottom calibrated.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nenvvqncmm84o9w/Photo 26-02-2020, 19 32 06.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8g8i3hr95ue7crn/Photo 02-02-2020, 00 22 52.jpg?dl=0

I think your problem is the size of screen, with using a calibrated Cinema or Digital Cinema mode you have only about 1000-1100 lumens to work with, spread that over a 100” screen is bright as a button but your surface area is approximately 2.4 times more than mine if it’s a 16:9 screen so that 1000 lumens will be significantly dimmer than mine. 

Maybe you should forget absolute accuracy and chose to use maybe Bright Cinema mode where you’ll be getting something like 2200 lumens and an image a lot closer in brightness to mine.


----------



## DarrinH

Novice with HDR here, how do you determine the best setting for the slider? What should I be looking for in the image? What does the slider do, change saturation?


----------



## dkcinema

@Luminated67

I agree that I'm losing brightness but I knew that going with the 158" cinescope. My two choices that would work on my wall ended up being the Silver Ticket 158" 2.35:1 or the Silver Ticket 150" 16:9. Both being a modest 1.1 gain I think. 

I actually spent a lot of time projecting onto my bare wall and measuring out what a 2.39:1 movie would look like on the 158" vs a 16:9 on the same 158". Then doing the same with what those aspect ratios would look like if I got the 150" 16:9.

I actually also had and returned the 120" Silver Ticket screen I originally ordered. Once I realized I could mount my projector to project on my bigger wall I ended up changing the room to fit the bigger screen. Turns out that I didn't feel like I lost a ton of brightness. But I know part of this is because on the wall with the 120" I had to have the projector almost at the very end of the range would where I could get the 120" vs with the 158" I was able to mount it as close as possible to get the 158" image.

And just clarify I do run mostly Natural setting with medium lamp and I'm really happy with the brightness overall. There are times when the scene is mostly dark and you have bright areas come up and its almost blinding even at my screen size. Like in Infinity War where you have Vision and Wanda walking at night and the two aliens attack them. When Vision uses his beam from the gem in his head its blindingly bright. And again the overall black level and brightness is great here. My point is that the same scene on my vizio would result in even greater contrast, better color, better brightness, and overall brighter whites and blacker blacks in HDR clips like this.

Unless there is something wrong with my projector and I don't think there is and maybe @skylarlove1999 can chime in too. Even on the darkest scene the black floor is at best a really really really dark gray. And this black floor wouldn't be effected too much even if all your walls were not covered in velvet since I'm talking about scenes where almost everything is dark and no bright highlights. All you see is shades of gray and nice shadow details like in the beginning of Ad Astra where you see Brad Pitt in his room in the dark. I just thought that the black floor would be even lower but I also did hear that Epson purposely raised the black floor on HDR content to get better bright highlights.

Also @skylarlove1999 even thought I change the HDR slider it doesn't seem to effect the black floor as much as I think however. Even when I got to HDR 5-8 levels the overall brighter highlights get dimmer but I don't notice the black floor getting blacker if that makes. Hence why I kept it at 2. This seemed to give me much more of the HDR look pop.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> Novice with HDR here, how do you determine the best setting for the slider? What should I be looking for in the image? What does the slider do, change saturation?


Honestly I look for light in outdoor settings to appear more natural. I know I have raised brightness too far when the blacks start to look gray/washed out. I look for detail in specular highlights. I know I have gone too far when i lose details in the specular highlights. It is all a compromise some people don't mind sacrificing black level and detail in specular highlights for a brighter iimage.If you have a specific scene up we might be able to tell you what to focus on while making adjustments. I would pause a scene if you have a UHD player and go from 1 to 16 several times and 16 to 1. Study the scene and notice the changes. Decide for yourself what you prefer. The lower the number the brighter the image becomes sacrificing black levels and detail in specular highlights . The higher the number the darker the image becomes making the image dimmer and sacrificing shadow details and punchy specular highlights . 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

DarrinH said:


> Novice with HDR here, how do you determine the best setting for the slider? What should I be looking for in the image? What does the slider do, change saturation?


That is real tricky because what I think looks right you might think it’s too bright or too dark. All I can suggest is getting yourself something like the Panasonic 420 Bluray player, it does fixed dynamic tonal mapping and generally this will help and allow you to only adjust the HDR slider maybe 1 or 2 clicks from movie to movie.

Personally I look at fresh tones when setting the slider not how bright the image looks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dkcinema said:


> @Luminated67
> 
> 
> 
> I agree that I'm losing brightness but I knew that going with the 158" cinescope. My two choices that would work on my wall ended up being the Silver Ticket 158" 2.35:1 or the Silver Ticket 150" 16:9. Both being a modest 1.1 gain I think.
> 
> 
> 
> I actually spent a lot of time projecting onto my bare wall and measuring out what a 2.39:1 movie would look like on the 158" vs a 16:9 on the same 158". Then doing the same with what those aspect ratios would look like if I got the 150" 16:9.
> 
> 
> 
> I actually also had and returned the 120" Silver Ticket screen I originally ordered. Once I realized I could mount my projector to project on my bigger wall I ended up changing the room to fit the bigger screen. Turns out that I didn't feel like I lost a ton of brightness. But I know part of this is because on the wall with the 120" I had to have the projector almost at the very end of the range would where I could get the 120" vs with the 158" I was able to mount it as close as possible to get the 158" image.
> 
> 
> 
> And just clarify I do run mostly Natural setting with medium lamp and I'm really happy with the brightness overall. There are times when the scene is mostly dark and you have bright areas come up and its almost blinding even at my screen size. Like in Infinity War where you have Vision and Wanda walking at night and the two aliens attack them. When Vision uses his beam from the gem in his head its blindingly bright. And again the overall black level and brightness is great here. My point is that the same scene on my vizio would result in even greater contrast, better color, better brightness, and overall brighter whites and blacker blacks in HDR clips like this.
> 
> 
> 
> Unless there is something wrong with my projector and I don't think there is and maybe @skylarlove1999 can chime in too. Even on the darkest scene the black floor is at best a really really really dark gray. And this black floor wouldn't be effected too much even if all your walls were not covered in velvet since I'm talking about scenes where almost everything is dark and no bright highlights. All you see is shades of gray and nice shadow details like in the beginning of Ad Astra where you see Brad Pitt in his room in the dark. I just thought that the black floor would be even lower but I also did hear that Epson purposely raised the black floor on HDR content to get better bright highlights.
> 
> 
> 
> Also @skylarlove1999 even thought I change the HDR slider it doesn't seem to effect the black floor as much as I think however. Even when I got to HDR 5-8 levels the overall brighter highlights get dimmer but I don't notice the black floor getting blacker if that makes. Hence why I kept it at 2. This seemed to give me much more of the HDR look pop.


Since you are not using Digital Cinema you are working with less colors . This can and will affect the pop/punch of specular highlights and affect your black levels since less color means less contrast. HDR really isn't about brightness it is really about the range. Reducing your color gamut reduces the range. I suggest trying high lamp and digital Cinema and adjust the slider with some scenes with which you are familiar. I use the Panasonic ub820 and the optimizer also adds a great deal to HDR performance even with the 6050. Unfortunately you really have to customize each movie and even then during the same movie because of the brightness in each scene some scenes can be too bright and others appear dim, as you remarked earlier. 

HDR capable televisions have anywhere from 700 to 2000 nits. Most HDR content is mastered between 1000 and 4000 nits. Your projector isn't going to get past 300 nits even in Natural and high lamp on a 158 inch check heck even on a 120 inch screen. Reduce that nit figure significantly if you use the filter by using Digital Cinema mode. So your projector is at a significant disadvantage when trying to reproduce content mastered in 1000 to 4000 nits.

That is where the HDR tone mapping comes into play. The problem with most current projectors and all UHD players is the tone mapping is static. Meaning it maps the entire movie based upon the highest peak nit value found in the entire movie, which may only last on screen for mere seconds. So it can make the rest of the movie appear dim. That is why the firmware update to dynamic tone mapping for the JVC native 4K projectors is so significant. No longer is the whole movie mapped to just the highest nit level. The dynamic tone mapping adjusts throughout the content either Scene by scene or frame by frame depending upon what you selected. JVC is using a proprietary algorithm for this Dynamic tone mapping so no metadata is required to produce really spectacular HDR performance. The Panasonic UHD players that I mentioned in order to optimize HDR performance for your display require metadata to perform the best optimization and even then sometimes the metadata encoded on the disk is just plain wrong which obviously leads to even more issues with HDR performance. The Panasonic players are still using static tone mapping.

JVC, knowing that metadata can and will be wrong, chose to actually scan the content in order to optimize HDR performance throughout the entire viewing. By doing this dynamically they have achieved a much more Plug and Play approach to HDR performance and a much better overall HDR experience in my personal opinion.

So each frame can be adjusted just like what you attempt to do with the HDR slider on the Epson projector. Dynamic tone mapping is the solution for HDR performance in projectors. Your lumens/nit levels don't have to be so high for great HDR performance because the DTM is optimizing the HDR content for the nit level your projector is capable of producing, during the entire movie. It is quite remarkable. It has me considering a JVC NX7 projector purchase. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

skylarlove1999 said:


> Since you are not using Digital Cinema you are working with less colors . This can and will affect the pop/punch of specular highlights and affect your black levels since less color means less contrast. HDR really isn't about brightness it is really about the range. Reducing your color gamut reduces the range. I suggest trying high lamp and digital Cinema and adjust the slider with some scenes with which you are familiar. I use the Panasonic ub820 and the optimizer also adds a great deal to HDR performance even with the 6050. Unfortunately you really have to customize each movie and even then during the same movie because of the brightness in each scene some scenes can be too bright and others appear dim, as you remarked earlier.
> 
> HDR capable televisions have anywhere from 700 to 2000 nits. Most HDR content is mastered between 1000 and 4000 nits. Your projector isn't going to get past 300 nits even in Natural and high lamp on a 158 inch check heck even on a 120 inch screen. Reduce that nit figure significantly if you use the filter by using Digital Cinema mode. So your projector is at a significant disadvantage when trying to reproduce content mastered in 1000 to 4000 nits.
> 
> That is where the HDR tone mapping comes into play. The problem with most current projectors and all UHD players is the tone mapping is static. Meaning it maps the entire movie based upon the highest peak nit value found in the entire movie, which may only last on screen for mere seconds. So it can make the rest of the movie appear dim. That is why the firmware update to dynamic tone mapping for the JVC native 4K projectors is so significant. No longer is the whole movie mapped to just the highest nit level. The dynamic tone mapping adjusts throughout the content either Scene by scene or frame by frame depending upon what you selected. JVC is using a proprietary algorithm for this Dynamic tone mapping so no metadata is required to produce really spectacular HDR performance. The Panasonic UHD players that I mentioned in order to optimize HDR performance for your display require metadata to perform the best optimization and even then sometimes the metadata encoded on the disk is just plain wrong which obviously leads to even more issues with HDR performance. The Panasonic players are still using static tone mapping.
> 
> JVC, knowing that metadata can and will be wrong, chose to actually scan the content in order to optimize HDR performance throughout the entire viewing. By doing this dynamically they have achieved a much more Plug and Play approach to HDR performance and a much better overall HDR experience in my personal opinion.
> 
> So each frame can be adjusted just like what you attempt to do with the HDR slider on the Epson projector. Dynamic tone mapping is the solution for HDR performance in projectors. Your lumens/nit levels don't have to be so high for great HDR performance because the DTM is optimizing the HDR content for the nit level your projector is capable of producing, during the entire movie. It is quite remarkable. It has me considering a JVC NX7 projector purchase.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes I'm very familiar with all the info you just posted here.

I'm not looking into using the Panasonic UHD play since most of my content is within my Plex library. So I use the Nvidia Shield. As far as I know the Panasonic and it's built in tone mapping will only be good for Blu-Ray discs correct? I won't get the tone mapping for Plex or Netflix? I'm not sure which of those apps might even be built in or able to be downloaded to the Panasonic UHD player.

I actually have a good friends who's cousin is an A/V installer so I was able to get his pricing for the 5050ub, 6050ub, Sony VW295ES, NX-5, and NX-7. I already knew the Sony was out compared to the Epsons for lens memory alone let alone the brightness. So it was down to the 6050ub and the NX-5. As much as I would have loved to get the NX-5 I couldn't get over the price difference that I got from my friend's cousin. Both were VERY good prices respectively but there was still enough of a gap between my prices I received that I didn't think was worth it.

I work in IT and I like playing around with settings and don't mind going with customer setups but I've grown to want more plug and play type stuff now. Hence why, even though I know it'll be fantastic, I don't want to go down the road of a HTPC/MadVR setup.

So for now I'm very happy with my 6050ub, Nvidia Shield, and my simple 5.1.2 setup.

I'll try to post some pictures later today but I'm not 100% finished with setting up my theater. I also want to mention that I have complete light control but I'm not willing to paint my wall all black or put up velvet etc. I KNOW this will hurt my overall projector image quality but it's a brand new construction home for me and I'm not sure I want to take the plunge and re-paint something brand new...


----------



## skylarlove1999

dkcinema said:


> @skylarlove1999 - Sorry I don't think I can quote your post yet since I'm too new lol. I'm a fairly new owner to the 6050ub.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope people don't get me wrong as I think the picture from my 6050ub is fantastic and skylarlove1999 would be right that the immersion level outweights black levels, brightness, etc of my Vizio P series tv. For the price I think you wont find anything better to throw up a over 100" picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I have a nice finished 8ft ceiling basement I looked into projectors again. And after my research I decided the 5050ub/6050ub was the best I could find for this price. And I looked at all the reviews and pictures people posted up. And my honest opinion is that based on that, I thought my black levels would be better. But I know that I also don't have experience with comparable models to compare either. But I think this idea was implanted into my mind from review pictures etc. Even on a completely black image I thought the "black floor" would be better on the 6050ub especially with the Dynamic iris on.
> 
> 
> 
> Would I rather watch my movies on my Vizio? Not a chance lol. I'm picking my 6050ub over the vizio. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.


Do you have your Auto Iris set to High? I have found for black levels and contrast, High gives the best results. I have my lens Iris set to zero. 

Through the years I have found many new projector owners will eliminate light streaming in from outside and turn off lighting in the room but fail to understand how much the reflected light from the screen to walls, ceiling and floor and reflected back onto the screen affects contrast, specular highlights and black levels. 

I have seem them paint their room in dark colors but in a sheen that still reflects light back onto the screen. A matte finish is best no matter the paint color. But all paint even in a matte finish will reflect light back onto the screen. Rosco TV Black has proven to be the least reflective paint but still cannot touch triple black velvet for eliminating light reflections back onto the screen. That is why many of us crazy projector folks have put up black velvet in our rooms to improve contrast and black levels. 

Last thing you do have the EDID set to expanded and video range set to Auto correct? This will affect HDR performance as well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

skylarlove1999 said:


> Do you have your Auto Iris set to High? I have found for black levels and contrast, High gives the best results. I have my lens Iris set to zero.
> 
> Through the years I have found many new projector owners will eliminate light streaming in from outside and turn off lighting in the room but fail to understand how much the reflected light from the screen to walls, ceiling and floor and reflected back onto the screen affects contrast, specular highlights and black levels.
> 
> I have seem them paint their room in dark colors but in a sheen that still reflects light back onto the screen. A matte finish is best no matter the paint color. But all paint even in a matte finish will reflect light back onto the screen. Rosco TV Black has proven to be the least reflective paint but still cannot touch triple black velvet for eliminating light reflections back onto the screen. That is why many of us crazy projector folks have put up black velvet in our rooms to improve contrast and black levels.
> 
> Last thing you do have the EDID set to expanded and video range set to Auto correct? This will affect HDR performance as well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yup Auto Iris is on and set to High. I didn't touch the manual Iris levels so it should be at 0 I believe.

And yes my EDID is set to expanded and video range set to Auto. I have the hotfixes installed on my Shield so it is now correctly outputting the color space which I know was an issue before and many people have mentioned it. I check on the info tab on the Epson and see the proper information coming in from the shield.

What I have been doing is I have some quilted black velvet (for style points) and I used spray adhesive to wrap them around a very thin 2x4' MDF board. I then use 3M velcro to attach the ones to the sides of the wall. And it's been holding very steady. For the ceiling ones I used some drywall screws and it's held in there very tight. This way when I do have to remove everything off the wall I'll have very minimal damage and I can easily patch the screw holes and paint.

The problem is I only have these boards coming out for the first 2 feet. So you could imagine how I have it mounted. I'm not sure only have 2' of coverage is going to make any difference. I need to mask the wall the screen is on either way since I use a 2.35:1 screen. And the 2' coming out helps with perceived contrast maybe? But in helping "actual" contrast...maybe just a tiny bit if anything.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dkcinema said:


> I'll try to post some pictures later today but I'm not 100% finished with setting up my theater. I also want to mention that I have complete light control but I'm not willing to paint my wall all black or put up velvet etc. I KNOW this will hurt my overall projector image quality but it's a brand new construction home for me and I'm not sure I want to take the plunge and re-paint something brand new...


Thank you for all the background info. You have a decided leg up on most new projector owners. You are correct about the Panasonic players only benefitting disc playback and their very limited app support. They do not support PLEX. You can find the Panasonic ub420 for ridiculously low price this week. Might be worth looking into just for comparison. You can always return it. Pick up a 4k movie on disc that you have on your PLEX. Compare them. Sounds like your room conditions might be affecting your black levels and contrast. Obviously everything about this hobby is about compromises. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Musty Hustla

dkcinema said:


> @skylarlove1999 - Sorry I don't think I can quote your post yet since I'm too new lol. I'm a fairly new owner to the 6050ub. I've had the 5040ub for a month but ended up returning it and getting the 6050ub. So I've been lurking for a bit now and I appreciate everyone's opinion and contributions.
> 
> 
> 
> I do agree that my screen size definitely hurts brightness a bit for sure. Luckily I was able to place the projector as close as possible for my screen size on the ceiling less then 20' feet away so that helps a bit there.
> 
> 
> 
> I hope people don't get me wrong as I think the picture from my 6050ub is fantastic and skylarlove1999 would be right that the immersion level outweights black levels, brightness, etc of my Vizio P series tv. For the price I think you wont find anything better to throw up a over 100" Now with this all said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. My 2016 65" Vizio P series destroys my 6050ub black levels
> 
> 2. The HDR on my Vizio is much more dynamic and has much better contrast then my 6050ub
> 
> 3. The Vizio has much better colors since I don't lose too much brightness compared to the 6050ub if I have to use the digital cinema filter
> 
> 
> 
> Would I rather watch my movies on my Vizio? Not a chance lol. I'm picking my 6050ub over the vizio. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.


The 6050 looks better when sized to 65” as well. 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

dkcinema said:


> Yup Auto Iris is on and set to High. I didn't touch the manual Iris levels so it should be at 0 I believe.
> 
> 
> 
> And yes my EDID is set to expanded and video range set to Auto. I have the hotfixes installed on my Shield so it is now correctly outputting the color space which I know was an issue before and many people have mentioned it. I check on the info tab on the Epson and see the proper information coming in from the shield.
> 
> 
> 
> What I have been doing is I have some quilted black velvet (for style points) and I used spray adhesive to wrap them around a very thin 2x4' MDF board. I then use 3M velcro to attach the ones to the sides of the wall. And it's been holding very steady. For the ceiling ones I used some drywall screws and it's held in there very tight. This way when I do have to remove everything off the wall I'll have very minimal damage and I can easily patch the screw holes and paint.
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is I only have these boards coming out for the first 2 feet. So you could imagine how I have it mounted. I'm not sure only have 2' of coverage is going to make any difference. I need to mask the wall the screen is on either way since I use a 2.35:1 screen. And the 2' coming out helps with perceived contrast maybe? But in helping "actual" contrast...maybe just a tiny bit if anything.


Yes for perceived contrast I would say you need at least 6 ft based upon your screen size. 8 ft would be more ideal all the way around your screen. Also your bulb is bright right now. I found that after 200 hours the brightness was reduced a little but was more stable which allowed for dialing in my settings better.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## dkcinema

Musty Hustla said:


> The 6050 looks better when sized to 65” as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


LOL of course it would...but the real question is does this fact even matter one tiny bit?

The answer is of course it doesn't matter one bit. For the price of the 5050ub You could save yourself $1k and get a 65" OLED.


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## dkcinema

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes for perceived contrast I would say you need at least 6 ft based upon your screen size. 8 ft would be more ideal all the way around your screen. Also your bulb is bright right now. I found that after 200 hours the brightness was reduced a little but was more stable which allowed for dialing in my settings better.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


My MLP is actually about as far back as my projector. Maybe 1-2' in front so we're talking about 16-17' back. 158" in cinescope is very wide so I couldn't imagine sitting even 10' away lol. I would feel like I would almost be looking left and right to see the whole screen.


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## dkcinema

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you for all the background info. You have a decided leg up on most new projector owners. You are correct about the Panasonic players only benefitting disc playback and their very limited app support. They do not support PLEX. You can find the Panasonic ub420 for ridiculously low price this week. Might be worth looking into just for comparison. You can always return it. Pick up a 4k movie on disc that you have on your PLEX. Compare them. Sounds like your room conditions might be affecting your black levels and contrast. Obviously everything about this hobby is about compromises.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


That's not a bad idea but maybe one I don't want to venture down. Only because why show myself something with better picture quality when I know it might a device I'm not eventually going to use since I need some streaming apps like Apple TV+ and Netflix that I know the Panasonic will most likely never have their tone mapping applied to.

I would love to tinker around with it but afraid it will make me want to build a HTPC with MadVR lol.

Yup this hobby is all about compromise unfortunately. That's why I wanted to put in my 2 cents about the pictures. Because realistically there are many who just can't/want to paint (matte of course) or velvet their room black. It's not like a LED/OLED tv where it will work in most room condition and when you read reviews/pictures you can be fairly certain the way it reviews/looks will be similar when you set it up in your own home.

But as it was pointed out before the OP of the pictures I mentioned did say he spend a lot of time and effort to black out his whole room. This again points to the fact that there so many variables that effect how the pictures will end up looking. The same as when people talk about calibration and the room effecting the settings much more dramatically then on a conventional tv set.


----------



## Luminated67

^No doubt about it room conditions not only reflect watch you see in person but what you camera sees too. I believe it’s why my images look consistently good. Even when I had the Sony HW45es the photos I took looked top notch.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dkcinema said:


> My MLP is actually about as far back as my projector. Maybe 1-2' in front so we're talking about 16-17' back. 158" in cinescope is very wide so I couldn't imagine sitting even 10' away lol. I would feel like I would almost be looking left and right to see the whole screen.


I wasn't talking about where you sit. I actually meant that you would want Black Velvet out about 8 feet all around the screen ideally yes having Black Velvet all the way back to your main listening position would be ideal but I know for many people that wouldn't make sense. Sitting 12 to 15 ft from a 158 inch screen would be best for most individuals. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

dkcinema said:


> That's not a bad idea but maybe one I don't want to venture down. Only because why show myself something with better picture quality when I know it might a device I'm not eventually going to use since I need some streaming apps like Apple TV+ and Netflix that I know the Panasonic will most likely never have their tone mapping applied to.
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to tinker around with it but afraid it will make me want to build a HTPC with MadVR lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup this hobby is all about compromise unfortunately. That's why I wanted to put in my 2 cents about the pictures. Because realistically there are many who just can't/want to paint (matte of course) or velvet their room black. It's not like a LED/OLED tv where it will work in most room condition and when you read reviews/pictures you can be fairly certain the way it reviews/looks will be similar when you set it up in your own home.
> 
> 
> 
> But as it was pointed out before the OP of the pictures I mentioned did say he spend a lot of time and effort to black out his whole room. This again points to the fact that there so many variables that effect how the pictures will end up looking. The same as when people talk about calibration and the room effecting the settings much more dramatically then on a conventional tv set.


Televisions require much less accommodation about where you place them. They are also much easier IMO to extract better overall performance and especially HDR performance due to the brightness they can achieve. They don't have to work as hard to optimize the picture for HDR performance because their baseline nits are much closer to the content they are being asked to display. Much less heavy lifting. But as you've already said succinctly nothing gives you that theater experience like a large screen. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Musty Hustla

dkcinema said:


> LOL of course it would...but the real question is does this fact even matter one tiny bit?
> 
> 
> 
> The answer is of course it doesn't matter one bit. For the price of the 5050ub You could save yourself $1k and get a 65" OLED.



I hope you know I was joking. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

Musty Hustla said:


> I hope you know I was joking.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I know it was lol


----------



## reechings

Wonder when refurb 5050s might show up on Epson clearance center 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

Is anyone using this screen with their 5050/6050?

https://www.amazon.com/STR-169135-S...DGW15NU#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## dkcinema

reechings said:


> Is anyone using this screen with their 5050/6050?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/STR-169135-S...DGW15NU#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I am but the 158" 2.35:1. I got white.


----------



## reechings

dkcinema said:


> I am but the 158" 2.35:1. I got white.


Oh oh, just finished reading your complaints about the picture lol. Think it may be a size thing too though 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## hema8988

jaredmwright said:


> 6050 here and when in Digital Cinema mode my projector is anything but dull. I find it bright and punchy, even in ECO mode after calibrating.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Oh really? What's the spec of your screen? I believe in Natural High Lamp mode, the color is punchier and brighter than Digital Cinema mode.


----------



## hema8988

skylarlove1999 said:


> I use Digital Cinema for all my HDR viewing. High lamp. Very saturated, bright and colors pop. Not sure who told you that Digital Cinema was dull.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


What's the spec of your screen? I prefer the brighter image under Nature High Lamp mode.


----------



## Luminated67

hema8988 said:


> What's the spec of your screen? I prefer the brighter image under Nature High Lamp mode.


What ever works best for you is the only important thing.


----------



## skylarlove1999

hema8988 said:


> What's the spec of your screen? I prefer the brighter image under Nature High Lamp mode.


Most people prefer a brighter uncalibrated image because it is what they have seen all their lives. Picture in Digital Cinema mode professionally calibrated takes getting used to for the majority of people. It is not overly saturated and overly punchy like you are used to seeing at most peoples houses with their televisions. Having your calibrator pull up your favorite scenes, showing you the extra detail present in shadows and specular highlights that the calibration brings out can be a revelation for some viewers. The different details present in sunsets and nighttime scenes post calibration were exciting to me. Other viewers still preferred the blown out bright image of an uncalibrated display. To each his own.

Here are the lumens from Projector Reviews 5050 review.










Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

hema8988 said:


> What's the spec of your screen? I prefer the brighter image under Nature High Lamp mode.


I have the Seymour Glacier white 120 inch 1.3 gain 16x9 screen with masking panels. My room is finished in Triple Black Velvet on the sidewalls and ceiling all the way back to main listening position which is at 12 ft from the screen. I use High Lamp and Digital Cinema Auto IRIS on High for HDR viewing . Eco lamp and Natural for SDR viewing . My room conditions and masking panels make a significant difference in perceived contrast and black levels IMHO.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## hema8988

Not at all. Your demo picture is very good. What's the spec of your screen? It depends on the source material, I suppose. I have seen Ford and Ferrari, Joker, Widow, Once Upon a Time in Hollywood and Dark Phoenix. Frankly, for those films, I can't live with the brightness under Digital Cinema high lamp Mode. It feels like there is a yellow tint applied to the picture. The yellow tint is gone once I change to Natural Mode. On the opposite, some films like Toy Story 4, Maleficent 2 are very good under the Digital Cinema mode.


----------



## hema8988

Luminated67 said:


> Does this image look dull to you
> 
> 
> 
> I’m using Medium lamp and on this occasion the hdr slider is at 7.


Not at all. Your demo picture is very good. What's the spec of your screen? It depends on the source material, I suppose. I have seen Ford and Ferrari, Joker, Widow, Once Upon a Time in Hollywood and Dark Phoenix. Frankly, for those films, I can't live with the brightness under Digital Cinema high lamp Mode. It feels like there is a yellow tint applied to the picture. The yellow tint is gone once I change to Natural Mode. On the opposite, some films like Toy Story 4, Maleficent 2 are very good under the Digital Cinema mode.


----------



## noob00224

skylarlove1999 said:


> Most people prefer a brighter uncalibrated image because it is what they have seen all their lives. Picture in Digital Cinema mode professionally calibrated takes getting used to for the majority of people. It is not overly saturated and overly punchy like you are used to seeing at most peoples houses with their televisions. Having your calibrator pull up your favorite scenes, showing you the extra detail present in shadows and specular highlights that the calibration brings out can be a revelation for some viewers. The different details present in sunsets and nighttime scenes post calibration were exciting to me. Other viewers still preferred the blown out bright image of an uncalibrated display. To each his own.
> 
> Here are the lumens from Projector Reviews 5050 review.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


While no review site is perfect, I trust Projector Central over Projector Reviews. 
How can a 2600lm model reach 3400?

Interestingly PC's review of the 5040UB also resulted in similar lumens, but it's considered a fluke/measurement error/unique sample.


----------



## jaredmwright

hema8988 said:


> Oh really? What's the spec of your screen? I believe in Natural High Lamp mode, the color is punchier and brighter than Digital Cinema mode.


Carl Flexiwhite in dedicated light controlled room. Moved from a painted wall to screen and honestly don't see a huge difference either way image has been top notch in both scenarios. I am particular about calibration and taking time to get it right, sometimes a lot of patience and trial and error is necessary to get a setup dialed in properly. It isn't a set and forget item either as bulb fades and sources change, HDR poor consistency, etc...

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have the Seymour Glacier white 120 inch 1.3 gain 16x9 screen with masking panels. My room is finished in Triple Black Velvet on the sidewalls and ceiling all the way back to main listening position which is at 12 ft from the screen. I use High Lamp and Digital Cinema Auto IRIS on High for HDR viewing . Eco lamp and Natural for SDR viewing . My room conditions and masking panels make a significant difference in perceived contrast and black levels IMHO.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Curious, did you build your own masking panels? This is something I would like to do but haven't looked into it yet. Any tips or recommendations are on where to start?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

Luminated67 said:


> ^No doubt about it room conditions not only reflect watch you see in person but what you camera sees too. I believe it’s why my images look consistently good. Even when I had the Sony HW45es the photos I took looked top notch.


The image you posted that shows how the black bars look does, I think, illustrate a point that @dkcinema makes. At first glance it looks fantastic. Can't even see those black bars! But take your computer (or whatever) into a dark room, and there they are in all their dark grey glory. Looking at photos on a light-emitting screen can give you some false impressions, although I fully appreciate the work you do to make your photos look as close as possible to reality. Not an exact science!


----------



## hema8988

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have the Seymour Glacier white 120 inch 1.3 gain 16x9 screen with masking panels. My room is finished in Triple Black Velvet on the sidewalls and ceiling all the way back to main listening position which is at 12 ft from the screen. I use High Lamp and Digital Cinema Auto IRIS on High for HDR viewing . Eco lamp and Natural for SDR viewing . My room conditions and masking panels make a significant difference in perceived contrast and black levels IMHO.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks. I have a cheap $300 fixed frame screen 120'' with 1.0 gain. My HT room has windows and is finished in black paint (Ceiling and side walls). So, I can't and don't want to watch films in complete dark environment during the day time. It is a different story in the evening. The intent of my original post is to explore the benefit of upgrading the screen to a better quality and higher gain screen. I hope this makes sense.


----------



## hema8988

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have the Seymour Glacier white 120 inch 1.3 gain 16x9 screen with masking panels. My room is finished in Triple Black Velvet on the sidewalls and ceiling all the way back to main listening position which is at 12 ft from the screen. I use High Lamp and Digital Cinema Auto IRIS on High for HDR viewing . Eco lamp and Natural for SDR viewing . My room conditions and masking panels make a significant difference in perceived contrast and black levels IMHO.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks. I have a cheap $300 fixed frame screen 120'' with 1.0 gain. My HT room has windows and is finished in black paint (Ceiling and side walls). So, I can't and don't want to watch films in complete dark environment during the day time. It is a different story in the evening. The intent of my original post is to explore the benefit of upgrading the screen to a better quality and higher gain screen. I hope this makes sense.


----------



## hema8988

jaredmwright said:


> Carl Flexiwhite in dedicated light controlled room. Moved from a painted wall to screen and honestly don't see a huge difference either way image has been top notch in both scenarios. I am particular about calibration and taking time to get it right, sometimes a lot of patience and trial and error is necessary to get a setup dialed in properly. It isn't a set and forget item either as bulb fades and sources change, HDR poor consistency, etc...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks. Did you calibrate the 6050 yourself? Curious what software and equipment are required?


----------



## Cinemiya

I currently have the Benq w1070 and looking to upgrade. I live in the desert and was wondering if Dust is really an issue with the 3LCD projectors. I am looking at getting the 5050 soon, should be a decent upgrade right?


----------



## skylarlove1999

jaredmwright said:


> Curious, did you build your own masking panels? This is something I would like to do but haven't looked into it yet. Any tips or recommendations are on where to start?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I would love to say I did but I would be lying. I paid $400 extra for them from Seymour AV when I bought my screen. I know there are several members on this site who have made them.

Simple Horizontal Masking Idea for Silver Ticket Screen https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2959142

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

hema8988 said:


> Thanks. I have a cheap $300 fixed frame screen 120'' with 1.0 gain. My HT room has windows and is finished in black paint (Ceiling and side walls). So, I can't and don't want to watch films in complete dark environment during the day time. It is a different story in the evening. The intent of my original post is to explore the benefit of upgrading the screen to a better quality and higher gain screen. I hope this makes sense.


Certainly understand. I started with an Elite Screen. Big upgrade going to the Seymour AV screen with masking panels to black out the grey bars on my 16x9 when watching scope movies. Adding the black velvet all over the front made a huge difference as well. I would say bang for your buck video performance increase goes to the black velvet. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

hema8988 said:


> Thanks. Did you calibrate the 6050 yourself? Curious what software and equipment are required?


I calibrated myself with Spears and Munsil 4K disc. Quite good and relatively straightforward. Could probably eek out some extra with a pro calibration, but I am more than happy with what eyes see and everyone who comes over is always blown away, so it passes all my requirements, ymmv. I do recommend using a Nvidia Shield for any streaming, it really is amazing and gives a ton of flexibility. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## hema8988

jaredmwright said:


> I calibrated myself with Spears and Munsil 4K disc. Quite good and relatively straightforward. Could probably eek out some extra with a pro calibration, but I am more than happy with what eyes see and everyone who comes over is always blown away, so it passes all my requirements, ymmv. I do recommend using a Nvidia Shield for any streaming, it really is amazing and gives a ton of flexibility.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Cool, Thanks. I am going to search the disc. Did you use a color meter?


----------



## jaredmwright

hema8988 said:


> Cool, Thanks. I am going to search the disc. Did you use a color meter?


I did not, I may invest in one for the future. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

sddawson said:


> The image you posted that shows how the black bars look does, I think, illustrate a point that @dkcinema makes. At first glance it looks fantastic. Can't even see those black bars! But take your computer (or whatever) into a dark room, and there they are in all their dark grey glory. Looking at photos on a light-emitting screen can give you some false impressions, although I fully appreciate the work you do to make your photos look as close as possible to reality. Not an exact science!


Exactly.


----------



## Luminated67

jaredmwright said:


> I calibrated myself with Spears and Munsil 4K disc. Quite good and relatively straightforward. Could probably eek out some extra with a pro calibration, but I am more than happy with what eyes see and everyone who comes over is always blown away, so it passes all my requirements, ymmv. I do recommend using a Nvidia Shield for any streaming, it really is amazing and gives a ton of flexibility.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I thought the same until I got it professionally calibrated and the difference is as plain as day.


----------



## ivanhoek

Luminated67 said:


> I thought the same until I got it professionally calibrated and the difference is as plain as day.




What happens over time as your bulb ages or you replace bulbs? Do you have the calibrator come in again?

In my previous setup I had a Lumagen and a meter , and I’d just recalibrate every so often as the bulb aged.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

ivanhoek said:


> What happens over time as your bulb ages or you replace bulbs? Do you have the calibrator come in again?
> 
> In my previous setup I had a Lumagen and a meter , and I’d just recalibrate every so often as the bulb aged.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


He is over my way twice a year and yes he has already said give him a call and he will re-check thing and adjust for a nomible fee.


----------



## Superman2

Luminated67 said:


> He is over my way twice a year and yes he has already said give him a call and he will re-check thing and adjust for a nomible fee.




How many hours into a bulb would you adjust your calibration? Or is it just as you notice it get dimmer?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Superman2 said:


> How many hours into a bulb would you adjust your calibration? Or is it just as you notice it get dimmer?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My bulb is at 352hrs now, it was calibrated at 92hrs. I don't use my setup as much as many others so realistically I won't need his services until probably next year.


----------



## reechings

Sorry for OT but is there any consensus on which AVR receiver plays nicest with this projector and provides 7.2 support with Atmos and is a decent price? Thanks

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## slothv

Hello all. I ordered a 6050 back in mid-December. The retailer is telling me that it's on national back-order. Anyone have any inside info or has anyone received a 6050 recently and when did you order? My 8700ub is still going strong, but I'm looking forward to the upgrade!


----------



## dkcinema

slothv said:


> Hello all. I ordered a 6050 back in mid-December. The retailer is telling me that it's on national back-order. Anyone have any inside info or has anyone received a 6050 recently and when did you order? My 8700ub is still going strong, but I'm looking forward to the upgrade!


My friend's cousin (he is an A/V installer) ordered a 6050ub for me near the end of December...maybe even beginning of January and yes it was backordered. But another a week or so later it got shipped and I got it some time near the mid-end of January.


----------



## skylarlove1999

slothv said:


> Hello all. I ordered a 6050 back in mid-December. The retailer is telling me that it's on national back-order. Anyone have any inside info or has anyone received a 6050 recently and when did you order? My 8700ub is still going strong, but I'm looking forward to the upgrade!


It has been on back order a couple times in the last three months but you should have gotten yours mid-January if you ordered in mid-December. Something else is going on there. Just speculation but if you don't pay your suppliers on time you aren't always a priority when a product is released from backorder. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

I think it is on backorder.


----------



## AVTimme

reechings said:


> Sorry for OT but is there any consensus on which AVR receiver plays nicest with this projector and provides 7.2 support with Atmos and is a decent price? Thanks
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I would recommend a Marantz SR6011-6014 or a Denon x3500h


----------



## spiroh

slothv said:


> Hello all. I ordered a 6050 back in mid-December. The retailer is telling me that it's on national back-order. Anyone have any inside info or has anyone received a 6050 recently and when did you order? My 8700ub is still going strong, but I'm looking forward to the upgrade!


Something doesn't sound right. I ordered mine on Feb 4th and only waited a couple days for shipping due to back order. I would look elsewhere if possible.


----------



## skylarlove1999

spiroh said:


> Something doesn't sound right. I ordered mine on Feb 4th and only waited a couple days for shipping due to back order. I would look elsewhere if possible.


100% agree. Something not right. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

skylarlove1999 said:


> 100% agree. Something not right.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


It could be related to what's happening in Asia. It was reported that only 30% of workers went back to their jobs after the chinese new year. If it persists then there will be a lot of delays especially of electronics.


----------



## bezlar

Your getting hosed. Buy from different dealer. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

*Image Flicker Issue*

I just wrote to Epson about this but I thought I'd post here to see if anyone has a similar issue.

A few weeks ago I noticed that a slight flicker has developed in the image, most noticeable on bright scenes. It's slight but obvious and can't be ignored once seen. If I don't make any adjustments as described below then the flickering continues throughout an entire movie. It does it regardless of source. 

Moving the HDR10 slider and exiting the menu a few times, changing brightness, Gamma or other video settings and then resetting back to my usual custom settings stops the flicker. No combination of setting changes and resetting that I can determine fixes the flicker permanently. Just seems to stop after I randomly make adjustments. The flicker recurs when the projector is next used and then I make random adjustments and resetting to get it to stop. 

It almost seems like something is trying to lock in after start up, or the lamp is having an issue. Don't really know. I'll post back after I hear from Epson. The projector is 9 months old.


----------



## noob00224

fredworld said:


> I just wrote to Epson about this but I thought I'd post here to see if anyone has a similar issue.
> 
> A few weeks ago I noticed that a slight flicker has developed in the image, most noticeable on bright scenes. It's slight but obvious and can't be ignored once seen. If I don't make any adjustments as described below then the flickering continues throughout an entire movie. It does it regardless of source.
> 
> Moving the HDR10 slider and exiting the menu a few times, changing brightness, Gamma or other video settings and then resetting back to my usual custom settings stops the flicker. No combination of setting changes and resetting that I can determine fixes the flicker permanently. Just seems to stop after I randomly make adjustments. The flicker recurs when the projector is next used and then I make random adjustments and resetting to get it to stop.
> 
> It almost seems like something is trying to lock in after start up, or the lamp is having an issue. Don't really know. I'll post back after I hear from Epson. The projector is 9 months old.


Try it in High lamp mode.

How many hours on lamp?


----------



## spiroh

noob00224 said:


> It could be related to what's happening in Asia. It was reported that only 30% of workers went back to their jobs after the chinese new year. If it persists then there will be a lot of delays especially of electronics.


I highly doubt that is the case. I ordered mine in Feb and still got it in a short amount of time. They ordered theirs in Dec.


----------



## HTX^2steve

skylarlove1999 said:


> I would love to say I did but I would be lying. I paid $400 extra for them from Seymour AV when I bought my screen. I know there are several members on this site who have made them.
> 
> Simple Horizontal Masking Idea for Silver Ticket Screen https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2959142
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Here is what I made...total cost under $100 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-169.html#post59107590


----------



## fredworld

noob00224 said:


> Try it in High lamp mode.
> 
> How many hours on lamp?



Changing Lamp Mode alone has no effect, nor does Iris or Lens modes. The lamp has 875 hours.


Got the following suggestions Epson, which I should be able to try over this weekend:

_"To help you resolve the issue, please do the following: _

 _Turn off the projector._
 _Disconnect the projector from its source._
 _Turn the projector on and try projecting without any source connected._
_To effectively help resolve your issue, we need to verify the following information:_​

 _Does the same issue occur when projecting images without any source connected?_
 _Does the same issue occur when projecting images from a different source?_
_Does the same issue occur when using a different interface cable?"_


----------



## reechings

Ok I've almost talked myself into taking the plunge on the 5050 and a new screen. I think I am going to go with a 16:9 screen with the slim style black border. Should I stick with bigger black border with more room for overscan? Anyone using this setup how annoying are the black bars when watching movies? Probably going to be watching 65/35 TV shows/movies and prefer to have as big of screen as possible. Thanks

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

reechings said:


> Ok I've almost talked myself into taking the plunge on the 5050 and a new screen. I think I am going to go with a 16:9 screen with the slim style black border. Should I stick with bigger black border with more room for overscan? Anyone using this setup how annoying are the black bars when watching movies? Probably going to be watching 65/35 TV shows/movies and prefer to have as big of screen as possible. Thanks
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk




I have the 5050 with a 120” 16:9 screen. The black bars are there, yes.. but I prefer that to having to zoom and get a smaller screen for 16:9. It’s not like I could get a larger 2.35:1 screen anyway.. I’m at the widest I can go on the wall as is.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

ivanhoek said:


> I have the 5050 with a 120” 16:9 screen. The black bars are there, yes.. but I prefer that to having to zoom and get a smaller screen for 16:9. It’s not like I could get a larger 2.35:1 screen anyway.. I’m at the widest I can go on the wall as is.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yeah I could go wider but kind of like the idea of having some space on the sides for some speakers and cabinets etc.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

fredworld said:


> Changing Lamp Mode alone has no effect, nor does Iris or Lens modes. The lamp has 875 hours.
> 
> 
> Got the following suggestions Epson, which I should be able to try over this weekend:
> 
> _"To help you resolve the issue, please do the following: _
> 
> _Turn off the projector._
> _Disconnect the projector from its source._
> _Turn the projector on and try projecting without any source connected._
> _To effectively help resolve your issue, we need to verify the following information:_​
> 
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images without any source connected?_
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images from a different source?_
> _Does the same issue occur when using a different interface cable?"_


Definetly try the suggestions.

What about High altitude mode when the lamp flickers?


----------



## quentinnw2

luminated67 said:


> i thought the same until i got it professionally calibrated and the difference is as plain as day.


 how much was it ?


----------



## reechings

Any thoughts on Elunevision vs Silver ticket for a 135" white screen? Looks like I can get the Silver ticket for about half the price and I'm guessing even if the material is a tiny bit more textured on the silver ticket, you're not going to see it any more than you're going to see the pixel grid when at viewing distance.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

What are silver ticket like?


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Any thoughts on Elunevision vs Silver ticket for a 135" white screen? Looks like I can get the Silver ticket for about half the price and I'm guessing even if the material is a tiny bit more textured on the silver ticket, you're not going to see it any more than you're going to see the pixel grid when at viewing distance.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Personally I would spend the extra money on the eluna vision reference 4K screen. You can have a good screen for 10-20 years. A respected audio video reviewer says it's very comparable to the Stewart filmscreen studio Tek 100 for about half the price. Although the Elunevision reference 4K screen is about 4.5 times the price of a Silver ticket usually. You need a light controlled room with dark paint or triple black velvet to really feature it properly.

https://hometheaterreview.com/elunevision-reference-studio-4k-fixed-frame-screen-reviewed/

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> What are silver ticket like?


Silver ticket is comparable to Elite screens. Good starter screens on a lower end budget.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> Personally I would spend the extra money on the eluna vision reference 4K screen. You can have a good screen for 10-20 years. A respected audio video reviewer says it's very comparable to the Stewart filmscreen studio Tek 100 for about half the price. Although the Elunevision reference 4K screen is about 4.5 times the price of a Silver ticket usually. You need a light controlled room with dark paint or triple black velvet to really feature it properly.
> 
> https://hometheaterreview.com/elunevision-reference-studio-4k-fixed-frame-screen-reviewed/
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Darn you're killing me, I can get a good deal on the Elunevision slim reference 4K (about double the price of silver ticket) if I buy it along with the 5050 but I was thinking maybe I would be a bit more fiscally responsible and get the Silver Ticket if there isn't a noticeable difference.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Darn you're killing me, I can get a good deal on the Elunevision slim reference 4K (about double the price of silver ticket) if I buy it along with the 5050 but I was thinking maybe I would be a bit more fiscally responsible and get the Silver Ticket if there isn't a noticeable difference.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


There is a noticeable difference. Two best things I did for my theater: putting up triple velvet and changing from Elite screen to Seymour Glacier white. Don't skimp on the screen. If you can add it for double it is so worth it. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> There is a noticeable difference. Two best things I did for my theater: putting up triple velvet and changing from Elite screen to Seymour Glacier white. Don't skimp on the screen. If you can add it for double it is so worth it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Ok so I guess there isn't much of a point of getting the slim frame style because I'm probably going to end up wanting to put black velvet on the wall anyways. I do like how it looks like a big flat screen though.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Ok so I guess there isn't much of a point of getting the slim frame style because I'm probably going to end up wanting to put black velvet on the wall anyways. I do like how it looks like a big flat screen though.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


The frame is up to you. I personally don't enjoy the slim frame look. But spend the money on the screen especially at the price I believe you are getting. Honestly you can't beat double the price of a Silver Ticket. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> The frame is up to you. I personally don't enjoy the slim frame look. But spend the money on the screen especially at the price I believe you are getting. Honestly you can't beat double the price of a Silver Ticket.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah it's just weird because I did see that review that you pointed out before which makes it sound great but then other people say oh it's the same as the Chinese brands just marked up.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Yeah it's just weird because I did see that review that you pointed out before which makes it sound great but then other people say oh it's the same as the Chinese brands just marked up.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


There is these two as well.

https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...n-reference-studio-4k-nanoedge-screen-review/

https://www.eastporters.com/elunevision-proffessional-review/

Now eastporters sells them but they sell a lot of products. 



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

skylarlove1999 said:


> There is these two as well.
> 
> https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...n-reference-studio-4k-nanoedge-screen-review/
> 
> https://www.eastporters.com/elunevision-proffessional-review/
> 
> Now eastporters sells them but they sell a lot of products.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah Eastporters is where I'm looking at for the 5050 and the Elunevision screens. The nanoedge and everything looks great but price is going in the wrong direction lol

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Yeah Eastporters is where I'm looking at for the 5050 and the Elunevision screens. The nanoedge and everything looks great but price is going in the wrong direction lol
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

noob00224 said:


> Definetly try the suggestions.
> 
> What about High altitude mode when the lamp flickers?



High lamp mode is "Off." I'm at 297' altitude.


----------



## noob00224

fredworld said:


> High lamp mode is "Off." I'm at 297' altitude.


Sometimes the flicker goes away if you enable High Altitude mode, doesn't matter what altitude you're at.


----------



## Yoss

Long time lurker, first time poster. I’m renovating the basement for a combo family room/home theater with an emphasis on the theater. I’ll have good light control and dark surfaces for that end of the room. 

I’m looking at the 5050ub but I have some concerns about throw distance. I have some low hanging duct work that will limit me to about an 11 and a half foot throw onto a 105 inch 16x9 screen and then use lens memory settings to accommodate 2.35 material. 

It all works according to the calculators but also shows 67 fL for brightness. Is it going to be too bright at that range or wash out the blacks and colors?


----------



## Luminated67

Yoss said:


> Long time lurker, first time poster. I’m renovating the basement for a combo family room/home theater with an emphasis on the theater. I’ll have good light control and dark surfaces for that end of the room.
> 
> I’m looking at the 5050ub but I have some concerns about throw distance. I have some low hanging duct work that will limit me to about an 11 and a half foot throw onto a 105 inch 16x9 screen and then use lens memory settings to accommodate 2.35 material.
> 
> It all works according to the calculators but also shows 67 fL for brightness. Is it going to be too bright at that range or wash out the blacks and colors?


My TW9400(6050) is 3.10m (10ft 2inches) from screen to front of lens, I’m using a 100” 1.1 gain screen in a completely light controlled room and the image it produces is neither too bright or washed out, blacks are top notch as the image below shows and this is 100% accurate, though you will have to go into a dark room to notice that the blank borders are in fact very dark grey.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmi8rla6xpkhz2t/Photo 01-01-2020, 19 48 55.jpg?dl=0

The advantage of having your projector so close to the screen is you can produce a very convincing HDR image.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lvm92bclk6txn2a/Photo 29-02-2020, 23 14 59.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pk0jbpnmr2lg2ay/Photo 25-02-2020, 21 01 46.jpg?dl=0

And even when not using 4K it’s 1080P picture is not less stunning.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/raf1eos3wi3hw5v/Photo 22-04-2019, 20 25 56.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3x6127jkpbvxz1/Photo 23-04-2019, 21 59 24.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/eycikkh7zeangie/Photo 05-05-2019, 18 55 10.jpg?dl=0

Have no fear it will look amazing.


----------



## noob00224

Yoss said:


> Long time lurker, first time poster. I’m renovating the basement for a combo family room/home theater with an emphasis on the theater. I’ll have good light control and dark surfaces for that end of the room.
> 
> I’m looking at the 5050ub but I have some concerns about throw distance. I have some low hanging duct work that will limit me to about an 11 and a half foot throw onto a 105 inch 16x9 screen and then use lens memory settings to accommodate 2.35 material.
> 
> It all works according to the calculators but also shows 67 fL for brightness. Is it going to be too bright at that range or wash out the blacks and colors?


The 5050UB has lens shift. Using the calculator, after inputting the screen size, at the bottom of the page there is a section called lens shift:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Note that both vertical and horizontal lens shift cannot be used at 100% at the same time. Use this website if both lens shift axis are going to be used at the same time:
http://www.reviewtranslations.com/projection_calculator_en.html

Projector Central brightness estimates are at the brightest value. Use this one:
https://webprojectorcalculator.com/


----------



## Yoss

I really appreciate you guys taking the time to reply and point me toward more accurate calculators. Those photos at comparable distances and your reassurances give me greater peace of mind about getting a good picture. 

I should be in pretty good shape as to lens shift. I can mount it dead center and only use the vertical offset. I somewhat misspoke above about a 16x9 screen. I’m planning on a painted screen wall and zoom to maintain the same image height for 2.35:1 aspect ratio.


----------



## gene4ht

Yoss said:


> Long time lurker, first time poster. I’m renovating the basement for a combo family room/home theater with an emphasis on the theater. I’ll have good light control and dark surfaces for that end of the room.
> 
> I’m looking at the 5050ub but I have some concerns about throw distance. I have some low hanging duct work that will limit me to about an 11 and a half foot throw onto a 105 inch 16x9 screen and then use lens memory settings to accommodate 2.35 material.
> 
> It all works according to the calculators but also shows 67 fL for brightness. Is it going to be too bright at that range or wash out the blacks and colors?


No need to be overly concerned...it’ll be fine! Keep in mind that forums like this are frequented by enthusiasts who are constantly chasing the “holy grail” of projector images. For the majority of owners, today’s projectors offer impressive images...even out of the box for some. Unless you find yourself one of the perfectionists, it’s not necessary to be in a bat cave, constantly tinker with adjustments and settings, or require professional calibration to fully enjoy a projector’s offerings. In fact, 99% of my guests comment on how impressed they were with today’s overall PJ image quality in terms sharpness, detail, clarity, color, contrast, etc. Their prior reference points were high school classroom PJ images or common movie theater quality. My intent here is not to start a debate but to offer an alternative perspective...the other side of the coin so to speak. Most visitors to these threads will be thrilled and more than satisfied with a projector’s image quality...particularly so in multi use/purpose rooms. Enjoy!


----------



## fredworld

noob00224 said:


> Sometimes the flicker goes away if you enable High Altitude mode, doesn't matter what altitude you're at.



Did you have the same issue?


Seems all I had to do was the initial suggestion from Epson: 


 _Disconnect the projector from its source._
 _Turn the projector on and try projecting without any source connected._
No flicker. Saw an entire movie last night without issue. I guess the HDMI handshake just had to get reestablished.


----------



## Yoss

Well I pulled the trigger and picked up the 5050ub this afternoon. I sure wouldn't have been inclined to buy it based on the showroom setup if I hadn't already read so many glowing reviews though. It was abysmal. They had a lot of light coming in from the door and other projectors in the same room. It must have had an old bulb and not quite focused either despite the salesman claiming it was set up correctly. Flat colors and blacks that were dark gray at best. When I asked him if it would look better than that set up in my home with a good light controlled room and fine tuned, he exclaimed "No way, that's a $4,000 screen it's projected on. It's not going to look any better than that."



My wife sidled away and started eyeballing the 85 inch TVs pretty hard at that point. After getting the projector home I did a quick test set-up by placing it on an ottoman and projected onto a light yellow wall with a fair amount of orange peel texture. If that was a $4,000 screen, I may have to invite that salesman over to marvel at what must be at least $10,000 worth of yellow paint and drywall. It looked better on my wall with the overhead lights on than in their darkened showroom.


At any rate, I can't wait to get the basement completely set up with this behemoth!


----------



## ivanhoek

Yoss said:


> Well I pulled the trigger and picked up the 5050ub this afternoon. I sure wouldn't have been inclined to buy it based on the showroom setup if I hadn't already read so many glowing reviews though. It was abysmal. They had a lot of light coming in from the door and other projectors in the same room. It must have had an old bulb and not quite focused either despite the salesman claiming it was set up correctly. Flat colors and blacks that were dark gray at best. When I asked him if it would look better than that set up in my home with a good light controlled room and fine tuned, he exclaimed "No way, that's a $4,000 screen it's projected on. It's not going to look any better than that."
> 
> 
> 
> My wife sidled away and started eyeballing the 85 inch TVs pretty hard at that point. After getting the projector home I did a quick test set-up by placing it on an ottoman and projected onto a light yellow wall with a fair amount of orange peel texture. If that was a $4,000 screen, I may have to invite that salesman over to marvel at what must be at least $10,000 worth of yellow paint and drywall. It looked better on my wall with the overhead lights on than in their darkened showroom.
> 
> 
> At any rate, I can't wait to get the basement completely set up with this behemoth!




Was it a Best Buy? I actually almost canceled my order after seeing it there.. looked pretty bad. I asked the same questions. However, once mine arrived it looks great on my 120” Stewart screen 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

I am sure you will be happy with your purchase, it really is a phenomenal projector for the price. Compared to anything we had just 5 years ago, quality has reached a point where improvements are less dramatic. Enjoy your new purchase. 

I originally projected onto my white wall and honestly don't see a big difference between it and having a screen now. I project inside a light controlled room onto a 175" 16x9 image. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

Also, take the time to align each color on the convergence it can make a considerable difference and isn't obvious unless you look for it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

ivanhoek said:


> Was it a Best Buy? I actually almost canceled my order after seeing it there.. looked pretty bad. I asked the same questions. However, once mine arrived it looks great on my 120” Stewart screen
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


We have the equivalent over here, it’s called Curry’s... the type of places that are designs to move boxes rather than offer any form of knowledge or proper environment to see such equipment.

BTW @jaredmwright if you are happy projecting on to the wall then maybe you should consider spraying the entire wall with one of the many screen paint formulas on sale, in many ways they are better than a dedicated screen.


----------



## jaredmwright

Luminated67 said:


> We have the equivalent over here, it’s called Curry’s... the type of places that are designs to move boxes rather than offer any form of knowledge or proper environment to see such equipment.
> 
> 
> 
> BTW @jaredmwright if you are happy projecting on to the wall then maybe you should consider spraying the entire wall with one of the many screen paint formulas on sale, in many ways they are better than a dedicated screen.


Appreciate the feedback. My next upgrade is a acoustically transparent screen with speakers behind that lifts up. I plan for it this summer.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Yoss

ivanhoek said:


> Was it a Best Buy? I actually almost canceled my order after seeing it there.. looked pretty bad. I asked the same questions. However, once mine arrived it looks great on my 120” Stewart screen
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


This was at Nebraska Furniture Mart. All the Best Buys near us were out of stock. I actually had a nice chat with the salesman about various AV equipment and he talked about some rather nice projectors he owns and has had in the past. He seemed like a true enthusiast so I don't want to run him down, but that's kind of hard to reconcile with him suggesting that the projectors weren't going to look any better than in the showroom. It did come up in the course of conversation that they don't sell very many projectors.

The screen he was projecting it on was an ALR screen and even with the poor image quality, I could see that it had a noticeable advantage when we turned the lights up higher. I'm not against the idea of purchasing a screen someday, but I'm already stretching my budget a bit and still have a kitchen to gut so it's paint for awhile. I have a decent HVLP spray gun and a compressor that can keep up so I know I can improve upon my light yellow wall which already looked pretty darn good IMO.


----------



## mastermaybe

Hola,

Are these on a two-year life-cycle or will we see a replacement in the next two months or so?

Thanks
James


----------



## skylarlove1999

mastermaybe said:


> Hola,
> 
> 
> 
> Are these on a two-year life-cycle or will we see a replacement in the next two months or so?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> James


Epson in the past has generally updated this production line every two years sometimes three so I doubt you will see an update to this particular line and projectors this year

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## pete ramberg

Yoss said:


> This was at Nebraska Furniture Mart. All the Best Buys near us were out of stock. I actually had a nice chat with the salesman about various AV equipment and he talked about some rather nice projectors he owns and has had in the past. He seemed like a true enthusiast so I don't want to run him down, but that's kind of hard to reconcile with him suggesting that the projectors weren't going to look any better than in the showroom. It did come up in the course of conversation that they don't sell very many projectors.
> 
> The screen he was projecting it on was an ALR screen and even with the poor image quality, I could see that it had a noticeable advantage when we turned the lights up higher. I'm not against the idea of purchasing a screen someday, but I'm already stretching my budget a bit and still have a kitchen to gut so it's paint for awhile. I have a decent HVLP spray gun and a compressor that can keep up so I know I can improve upon my light yellow wall which already looked pretty darn good IMO.


Try Dutch Boy Duraclean, Ultra White Eggshell. I have tested it against a Monoprice ISF certified screen and it is amazing...


----------



## gene4ht

mastermaybe said:


> Hola,
> 
> Are these on a two-year life-cycle or will we see a replacement in the next two months or so?
> 
> Thanks
> James





skylarlove1999 said:


> Epson in the past has generally updated this production line every two years sometimes three so *I doubt you will see an update to this particular line and projectors this year*
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Agreed...

5040 - August 2016

5050 - April 2019


----------



## Luminated67

jaredmwright said:


> Appreciate the feedback. My next upgrade is a acoustically transparent screen with speakers behind that lifts up. I plan for it this summer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Unfortunately the fact you are in the US means I can’t recommend a screen based on price because our prices over here are difference. Also I don’t have the experience others here might have with acoustic screens, the only advise I can give is what ever screen you buy get it with tab-tension because roll down screen are seldom flat without this.

One brand that I have heard decent reviews of for some members of AVForums here in the UK is HiViLux, their 16:9 106” would cost €1199 plus delivery so not a cheap option but a very good screen.


----------



## Spiral1401

Benq W1070 owner, been considering an upgrade for some time. Already updated AVR and cabling for 4K support - was considering the Benq HT3550 for a while but the input lag is scaring me away. I probably am 50/50 gaming (though admittedly, rarely anything competitive or super sensitive to lag) vs. watching tv/movies on my PJ. Considered the cheaper epson models but I don't like the lack of 18 Gbps HDMI, so thought I might try and future proof myself a little with this one - though I'll probably wait for a sale if I can.

120" 1.1 gain screen, throwing from probably around the minimum possible distance - 11'10" or so - ProjectorCentral calculator shows a really high image brightness, particularly in comparison to what my W1070 shows there. Should I be concerned about this? Or is it easily compensated for with lower brightness modes on the 5050UB? Light controlled room, but white ceiling / gray walls.


----------



## Mrkazador

Spiral1401 said:


> Benq W1070 owner, been considering an upgrade for some time. Already updated AVR and cabling for 4K support - was considering the Benq HT3550 for a while but the input lag is scaring me away. I probably am 50/50 gaming (though admittedly, rarely anything competitive or super sensitive to lag) vs. watching tv/movies on my PJ. Considered the cheaper epson models but I don't like the lack of 18 Gbps HDMI, so thought I might try and future proof myself a little with this one - though I'll probably wait for a sale if I can.
> 
> 120" 1.1 gain screen, throwing from probably around the minimum possible distance - 11'10" or so - ProjectorCentral calculator shows a really high image brightness, particularly in comparison to what my W1070 shows there. Should I be concerned about this? Or is it easily compensated for with lower brightness modes on the 5050UB? Light controlled room, but white ceiling / gray walls.


If you read this review it says you can manually close the iris to adjust light output.

https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...me-cinema-5050ub-4k-pro-uhd-projector-review/



> SDR calibration was a breeze in Natural mode. Out of the box, color is accurate though I found the gamut slightly under-saturated due to the gamma which was a bit light. Changing the preset to -2 fixed that issue along with a few changes to the two-point color temp controls. There are many options to control light output and contrast. Not only are there three bulb power settings, there’s a superb auto-iris with two speeds and a 20-position manual iris. This last one is something all projectors should have because you can precisely set your peak light output to best suit the environment. The 5050UB is capable of over 300 nits which is far too much for my small all-black theater. I closed it down to -8, set the bulb to Eco, and chose the auto-iris’ high-speed option. This gave me over 37,000:1 contrast which is nearly what I measure from my Anthem LTX-500. That is impressive!


----------



## biglen

Yoss said:


> This was at Nebraska Furniture Mart. All the Best Buys near us were out of stock. I actually had a nice chat with the salesman about various AV equipment and he talked about some rather nice projectors he owns and has had in the past. He seemed like a true enthusiast so I don't want to run him down, but that's kind of hard to reconcile with him suggesting that the projectors weren't going to look any better than in the showroom. It did come up in the course of conversation that they don't sell very many projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> The screen he was projecting it on was an ALR screen and even with the poor image quality, I could see that it had a noticeable advantage when we turned the lights up higher. I'm not against the idea of purchasing a screen someday, but I'm already stretching my budget a bit and still have a kitchen to gut so it's paint for awhile. I have a decent HVLP spray gun and a compressor that can keep up so I know I can improve upon my light yellow wall which already looked pretty darn good IMO.[/quote @Yoss , if you're thinking about a painted screen, check out my DIY thread where I painted my screen with Black Flame Interstellar screen paint.
> 
> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Spiral1401 said:


> Benq W1070 owner, been considering an upgrade for some time. Already updated AVR and cabling for 4K support - was considering the Benq HT3550 for a while but the input lag is scaring me away. I probably am 50/50 gaming (though admittedly, rarely anything competitive or super sensitive to lag) vs. watching tv/movies on my PJ. Considered the cheaper epson models but I don't like the lack of 18 Gbps HDMI, so thought I might try and future proof myself a little with this one - though I'll probably wait for a sale if I can.
> 
> 120" 1.1 gain screen, throwing from probably around the minimum possible distance - 11'10" or so - ProjectorCentral calculator shows a really high image brightness, particularly in comparison to what my W1070 shows there. Should I be concerned about this? Or is it easily compensated for with lower brightness modes on the 5050UB? Light controlled room, but white ceiling / gray walls.


I’m using a 100” screen and throwing from 10’2” so you don’t have to worry at all and yes low lamp mode and closing down the iris will get you your desire lumen output. Ideally painting the ceiling grey and the walls as dark a grey/black as you can comfortably go will yield even better contrast but ultimately if it’s not a dedicated room some compromises has to be expected.


----------



## gunbunnysoulja

I have a Silver Ticket 150" AT Screen. Throw will be around 18-19' (I have a recessed area with power above the couch). I have ambient light in the open concept family room this will be placed in, along with light walls and white cathedral ceilings. I plan on watching at night only, solely for 4k movies, as I have a TV setup in the living room for normal viewing. Any concerns with the 5050UB for this setup?


----------



## DarrinH

gunbunnysoulja said:


> I have a Silver Ticket 150" AT Screen. Throw will be around 18-19' (I have a recessed area with power above the couch). I have ambient light in the open concept family room this will be placed in, along with light walls and white cathedral ceilings. I plan on watching at night only, solely for 4k movies, as I have a TV setup in the living room for normal viewing. Any concerns with the 5050UB for this setup?


I have the same screen and this projector is a cannon for light output. I doubt you will have any issues.


----------



## gene4ht

gunbunnysoulja said:


> I have a Silver Ticket 150" AT Screen. Throw will be around 18-19' (I have a recessed area with power above the couch). I have ambient light in the open concept family room this will be placed in, along with light walls and white cathedral ceilings. I plan on watching at night only, solely for 4k movies, as I have a TV setup in the living room for normal viewing. Any concerns with the 5050UB for this setup?


Depending on our experiences and expectations, our concepts of image quality can and will vary. Under the environmental room conditions you’ve described, you should expect a vey good/acceptable image...especially for night viewing. You will immediately be WOW’d by the immersive image which will alleviate any of your current concerns and render your “TV setup” less satisfying. And depending on the environmental improvements (darker walls, ceiling, floor material - even if only slightly so- room darkening shades, etc.) you care to make going forward, it’ll only get better. Prepare yourself and your family for a fun/wonderful/exciting experience! Enjoy!


----------



## skylarlove1999

gunbunnysoulja said:


> I have a Silver Ticket 150" AT Screen. Throw will be around 18-19' (I have a recessed area with power above the couch). I have ambient light in the open concept family room this will be placed in, along with light walls and white cathedral ceilings. I plan on watching at night only, solely for 4k movies, as I have a TV setup in the living room for normal viewing. Any concerns with the 5050UB for this setup?


If only watching at night you will probaby be okay. The white walls and ceiling will negatively impact black levels, contrast and overall picture quality. Honestly I would not recommend a projector for a living room setup like yours without an ALR screen. Your screen size, it being an AT screen and your room conditions are definitely working against you. Your screen gain at best is .95 and probably closer to .85. You may still be very happy with your purchase. You may not have a reference point for how much better an image the projector can throw in the proper room with a smaller screen and better room conditions.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DarrinH said:


> I have the same screen and this projector is a cannon for light output. I doubt you will have any issues.


Keep in mind you have chosen correctly to put Black Velvet up 4 feet out all around your screen which helps immensely with the picture quality

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gunbunnysoulja

skylarlove1999 said:


> If only watching at night you will probaby be okay. The white walls and ceiling will negatively impact black levels, contrast and overall picture quality. Honestly I would not recommend a projector for a living room setup like yours without an ALR screen. Your screen size, it being an AT screen and your room conditions are definitely working against you. Your screen gain at best is .95 and probably closer to .85. You may still be very happy with your purchase. You may not have a reference point for how much better an image the projector can throw in the proper room with a smaller screen and better room conditions.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the reply. You make some good points. I know the screen is listed as 1.1 gain, but I don't really know much about screens. I got it for my last house that had a dedicated light controlled room but never finished it for the projector setup. 

I do have a 3 car garage (900 sq ft) that I originally planned on having converted to a dedicated theater as that room is also mostly unused, but as that is a big job, I wanted to consider if I could satisfy the immersion factor for movies in a room that is pretty much unused at the moment, while saving a bunch of time and money. I might just get the 5050, see how it works without doing the in-wall speaker install and if it's awful, I can still do the garage theater conversion over the next year. While the wife is fine with me doing the theater in the family room or the garage, it's a hard requirement that I can't paint the walls or ceiling in the family room.


----------



## noob00224

Spiral1401 said:


> Benq W1070 owner, been considering an upgrade for some time. Already updated AVR and cabling for 4K support - was considering the Benq HT3550 for a while but the input lag is scaring me away. I probably am 50/50 gaming (though admittedly, rarely anything competitive or super sensitive to lag) vs. watching tv/movies on my PJ. Considered the cheaper epson models but I don't like the lack of 18 Gbps HDMI, so thought I might try and future proof myself a little with this one - though I'll probably wait for a sale if I can.
> 
> 120" 1.1 gain screen, throwing from probably around the minimum possible distance - 11'10" or so - ProjectorCentral calculator shows a really high image brightness, particularly in comparison to what my W1070 shows there. Should I be concerned about this? Or is it easily compensated for with lower brightness modes on the 5050UB? Light controlled room, but white ceiling / gray walls.


Projector Central brightness estimates are for the brightest mode, try this calculator: https://webprojectorcalculator.com/

The biggest issue with the HT3550 is not the lag, but the black level compared to the 5050UB (in a treated room). Generally speaking, contrast and black level is considered the biggest upgrade in terms of picture quality. Even in a semi treated room like yours, the 5050UB will still have a better picture and black level than the HT3550.

It's very recommended you paint the ceiling and make the room as dark as possible since reflections will affect black level negatively:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/


----------



## Hawkmarket

gunbunnysoulja said:


> Thanks for the reply. You make some good points. I know the screen is listed as 1.1 gain, but I don't really know much about screens. I got it for my last house that had a dedicated light controlled room but never finished it for the projector setup.
> 
> I do have a 3 car garage (900 sq ft) that I originally planned on having converted to a dedicated theater as that room is also mostly unused, but as that is a big job, I wanted to consider if I could satisfy the immersion factor for movies in a room that is pretty much unused at the moment, while saving a bunch of time and money. I might just get the 5050, see how it works without doing the in-wall speaker install and if it's awful, I can still do the garage theater conversion over the next year. While the wife is fine with me doing the theater in the family room or the garage, it's a hard requirement that I can't paint the walls or ceiling in the family room.


That room screams for an ALR screen or even just using a grey screen. The light reflection bounce off of those walls and ceiling is going to be intense. If you DON'T use an ALR or grey screen then you could also consider the Epson 4010. You're paying a premium to use the UB (ultra black) panels on the 5050 and you aren't going to get ultra black anything in that room. Unless you game at 4K 60fps HDR the HDMI chipset isn't going to limit you. If you need the 18 Gbps HDMI that room may also warrant and Epson 3800 over the 5050.


----------



## misterg51

gunbunnysoulja said:


> Thanks for the reply. You make some good points. I know the screen is listed as 1.1 gain, but I don't really know much about screens. I got it for my last house that had a dedicated light controlled room but never finished it for the projector setup.
> 
> I do have a 3 car garage (900 sq ft) that I originally planned on having converted to a dedicated theater as that room is also mostly unused, but as that is a big job, I wanted to consider if I could satisfy the immersion factor for movies in a room that is pretty much unused at the moment, while saving a bunch of time and money. I might just get the 5050, see how it works without doing the in-wall speaker install and if it's awful, I can still do the garage theater conversion over the next year. While the wife is fine with me doing the theater in the family room or the garage, it's a hard requirement that I can't paint the walls or ceiling in the family room.


Been reading all of the screen comments of late. I recently switched from a Stewart Gray to an Elite VMAX 2. The gray was supposed to be .9 and the new one is 1.1. What I noticed was better focus and sharpness if there is such a thing. I then crunched my long ATZEBE fiber cable to the projector, and switched back to my Audioquest Chocolate. HDR now looked dull and I had to adjust on the remote.


Doing some research, I found a site that recommended only RUIPRO and Furui Fiber cables are worth getting. Thought I would get both, until I saw on the graphs for each that the Furui cables barely eek out meeting 4K 60 HZ. Changing to the RUIPRO when it arrived, the projected image gave me the same kind of chills that I had when I switched from my 5040 to the 5050. I guess what I would say is the marriage of each component with the others is more important than say which screen you get. The Epson won the projector of the year at Sound and Vision. This is over the JVCs and Sonys. Your result may vary, but a $156 investment that provides full 4K 60Hz 18 GB bandwidth, sated my wanderlust. I do feed my sources with Audioquest Vodka for the improved sound and picture, but that $156 carries that picture flawlessly to the 5050. Yes, I use blackout curtains during daylight for serious watching. I also use Projector Reviews calibration settings. I was dreaming of the +2K$ Stewart screen until I got the RUIPRO cable. Spending the savings on movies. Peace.


----------



## noob00224

Hawkmarket said:


> That room screams for an ALR screen or even just using a grey screen. The light reflection bounce off of those walls and ceiling is going to be intense. If you DON'T use an ALR or grey screen then you could also consider the Epson 4010. You're paying a premium to use the UB (ultra black) panels on the 5050 and you aren't going to get ultra black anything in that room. Unless you game at 4K 60fps HDR the HDMI chipset isn't going to limit you. If you need the 18 Gbps HDMI that room may also warrant and Epson 3800 over the 5050.


Some streaming services and boxes/devices require 60Hz, and black level in low APL will be visible, even in that room.

If he's going to get a 10GB HDMI might as well get a refurbished 5040UB. A HDFury linker or some other device can drop the bit depth from 10 to 8 in order to fit the 4K HDR 60Hz signal.


----------



## sniikki

My TW9400 (6050UB) has some 700 hours in and this quite annoying high pitch hum / whine has emerged. It's the pixel shifter as the whine goes away in 1080p mode like shown in linked video.
It wasn't completely inaudible as new either, but not nearly this loud. Annoys enough try a warranty repair / replacement but wonder if this is a common issue and will I get the usual "no issues found" f.u. note from the service after few weeks.
It has been hanging upside down for its whole life if it matters (if someone knows the shifter mechanics really well).


----------



## golden78

has anyone here had to send their 5050 or 6050 in for repair work? my question is does epson require receipt for original proof of purchgase for warranty repair? i have opportunity save some money on a brand new unit but not from dealer so no receipt i'm just worried if something happened down the road the manufacturer warranty wouldnt be valid or do they just check serial #? If any one knows please let me know thanks


----------



## smile

A year later, is this still the PJ to get at this price?
I am replacing an Epson 9350.
The wireless version is the same price. Is it the same PJ as the wired version- I can throw away the wireless box if I don't want it and PJ works the same?
Thx


----------



## noob00224

sniikki said:


> My TW9400 (6050UB) has some 700 hours in and this quite annoying high pitch hum / whine has emerged. It's the pixel shifter as the whine goes away in 1080p mode like shown in linked video.
> It wasn't completely inaudible as new either, but not nearly this loud. Annoys enough try a warranty repair / replacement but wonder if this is a common issue and will I get the usual "no issues found" f.u. note from the service after few weeks.
> It has been hanging upside down for its whole life if it matters (if someone knows the shifter mechanics really well).
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoA0pRKGf24


https://www.avforums.com/threads/epson-tw-9400-hum.2257546/


----------



## gunbunnysoulja

I pulled the trigger today on the 5050. How high off the floor should the screen be for my 150” screen? I was thinking 19” because that way the top is level with the top of my blinds. The throw is about 18’ (recessed cubby above couch), seating distance at 16’. Single row. Plan on doing in wall speakers sometime soon as well.


----------



## nefrina

gunbunnysoulja said:


> I pulled the trigger today on the 5050. How high off the floor should the screen be for my 150” screen? I was thinking 19” because that way the top is level with the top of my blinds. The throw is about 18’ (recessed cubby above couch), seating distance at 16’. Single row. Plan on doing in wall speakers sometime soon as well.


your eyes should rest on the bottom 1/3 of the screen when you're looking straight forward from your seat. don't try to figure out how high to hang your screen when you're standing up or your neck will be hurting when you sit down.


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## noob00224

gunbunnysoulja said:


> I pulled the trigger today on the 5050. How high off the floor should the screen be for my 150” screen? I was thinking 19” because that way the top is level with the top of my blinds. The throw is about 18’ (recessed cubby above couch), seating distance at 16’. Single row. Plan on doing in wall speakers sometime soon as well.


>>



Dave in Green said:


> What you want to do is lay back in your typical viewing position with your eyes shut. When you open your eyes you should be looking at the vertical point on the wall where your vision naturally falls. For most people that point should be around or somewhat below where the vertical center of the screen should be positioned. The more you can fine tune this before permanently mounting the screen the more comfortable you're likely to be when viewing. When I sit in my reclining chair with eyes shut and then open my eyes my eyesight naturally falls at a higher point on the wall when the chair is reclined than when it's upright.


----------



## sniikki

noob00224 said:


> https://www.avforums.com/threads/epson-tw-9400-hum.2257546/


Thanks. Based on that, it's no use to send it for a warranty work as the noise might appear again. Sucks as it was a really quiet projector few months. Still, the shifter whine is not nearly as bad as it was with a HT3550 I tested.


----------



## BIC2

skylarlove1999 said:


> Certainly understand. I started with an Elite Screen. Big upgrade going to the Seymour AV screen with masking panels to black out the grey bars on my 16x9 when watching scope movies. Adding the black velvet all over the front made a huge difference as well. I would say bang for your buck video performance increase goes to the black velvet.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I agree. I have a Seymour XD 16:9. Had magnets pre-installed. Tried it without panels for a few months but had to give in and get the masking panels. Big improvement.


----------



## BIC2

reechings said:


> Ok I've almost talked myself into taking the plunge on the 5050 and a new screen. I think I am going to go with a 16:9 screen with the slim style black border. Should I stick with bigger black border with more room for overscan? Anyone using this setup how annoying are the black bars when watching movies? Probably going to be watching 65/35 TV shows/movies and prefer to have as big of screen as possible. Thanks
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


That's the setup I have. Seymour XD screen. I didn't like the gray bars in scope. Problem solved with masking panels. All's well and glad I did 16:9. It provides more overall screen sq ft compared to a scope screen and shrinking down the 16:9.


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## gunbunnysoulja

Got the 150” screen up! Now just waiting for the projector to come in the mail. Should make for a fun movie night!


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## reechings

gunbunnysoulja said:


> Got the 150” screen up! Now just waiting for the projector to come in the mail. Should make for a fun movie night!


That is one big screen and one tall room!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Spiral1401

So doing some measurements.... I'm realizing now that there's a chance I won't be able to project at my 120 screen size, due width of my room minus the throw distance and the actual space this projector takes up is much larger than the W1070. 142 inch throw + 17.7 inch depth size on projector and my room is roughly 159 inches wide (and also have to consider it having cords plugged in needing to be offset from wall even further).

How do throw calculations work when you mount the projector offset from center, and use horizontal lens shift? According to the calculators, I'd have roughly 49 inches of horizontal lens shift to work with. Could I mount the 5050UB offset to my screen center to get it "further away" and ensure ability to project a 120 inch picture?

The projector calculators (webprojectorcalculator, projectorcentral - I'm not allowed to post links but you guys know these things) I've played around with thus far don't seem to consider this possibility, so perhaps it's either not an option or too remote of a situation to bother adding to the calculator.


----------



## reechings

BIC2 said:


> I agree. I have a Seymour XD 16:9. Had magnets pre-installed. Tried it without panels for a few months but had to give in and get the masking panels. Big improvement.


No damage to the screen taking the panels on and off all the time?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> No damage to the screen taking the panels on and off all the time?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


No damage. The top masking is secured in place using all magnetic connection. The bottom ones use the guitar picks and side magnets so you just want to be a little more careful on the bottom masking. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

gunbunnysoulja said:


> Got the 150” screen up! Now just waiting for the projector to come in the mail. Should make for a fun movie night!


Now that is a big screen!!! It should be pretty amazing. What screen did you choose? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

reechings said:


> BIC2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I agree. I have a Seymour XD 16:9. Had magnets pre-installed. Tried it without panels for a few months but had to give in and get the masking panels. Big improvement.
> 
> 
> 
> No damage to the screen taking the panels on and off all the time?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The XD screen seems pretty durable. Probably would need a sharp object to damage it.


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## pdoherty972

Is there ever going to be a firmware update that enables frame interpolation on 4K sources for this (6050UB) projector? It’s about the only thing I dislike about mine.


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## skylarlove1999

pdoherty972 said:


> Is there ever going to be a firmware update that enables frame interpolation on 4K sources for this (6050UB) projector? It’s about the only thing I dislike about mine.


What true 4K content are you watching that you feel requires frame Interpolation?

Streaming 4K content presently and in the future is best displayed at 60 frames per second. Displaying frames in quick succession creates the illusion of motion or animation. The more frames per second, the smoother the motion appears. Epson believes that applying motion smoothing to 4K/60FPS content actually makes the image appear less natural. 

When upscaling 1080p content to 4k the original content might have been only at 30fps, particularly making sports content appear stilted. This is dependent on the streaming application being used and what frame rate is supported on that particular app on your streaming device. There are many variables. The projector info page can tell you the frame rate currently being sent to the projector when viewing content. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## pdoherty972

skylarlove1999 said:


> What true 4K content are you watching that you feel requires frame Interpolation?
> 
> Streaming 4K content presently and in the future is best displayed at 60 frames per second. Displaying frames in quick succession creates the illusion of motion or animation. The more frames per second, the smoother the motion appears. Epson believes that applying motion smoothing to 4K/60FPS content actually makes the image appear less natural.
> 
> When upscaling 1080p content to 4k the original content might have been only at 30fps, particularly making sports content appear stilted. This is dependent on the streaming application being used and what frame rate is supported on that particular app on your streaming device. There are many variables. The projector info page can tell you the frame rate currently being sent to the projector when viewing content.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Excuse me if this is ignorant, but how much disk-based or streaming 4K is 60 FPS (and was shot that way)? I’m thinking not much and the stuttery mess when watching on my 6050UB annoys me, which is why I asked.

The more-expensive Sony and JVCs have this option - why should Epson determine, for me, whether it’s a valuable feature? Just disable it by default and let me turn it on if I want. I’m not sure arguing this is a purist’s preference flies when the higher-dollar projectors have it.


----------



## ivanhoek

pdoherty972 said:


> Excuse me if this is ignorant, but how much disk-based or streaming 4K is 60 FPS (and was shot that way)? I’m thinking not much and the stuttery mess when watching on my 6050UB annoys me, which is why I asked.
> 
> 
> 
> The more-expensive Sony and JVCs have this option - why should Epson determine, for me, whether it’s a valuable feature? Just disable it by default and let me turn it on if I want. I’m not sure arguing this is a purist’s preference flies when the higher-dollar projectors have it.




Therein lies the point.. The Sony and JVC cost more, and can deliver without that particular compromise.

Perhaps Epson can’t without a more powerful DSP that would also make the projector cost similarly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

pdoherty972 said:


> Excuse me if this is ignorant, but how much disk-based or streaming 4K is 60 FPS (and was shot that way)? I’m thinking not much and the stuttery mess when watching on my 6050UB annoys me, which is why I asked.
> 
> 
> 
> The more-expensive Sony and JVCs have this option - why should Epson determine, for me, whether it’s a valuable feature? Just disable it by default and let me turn it on if I want. I’m not sure arguing this is a purist’s preference flies when the higher-dollar projectors have it.


Film due to the manner in which it is shot is typically 24FPS. Streaming content is based upon the source, device and available bandwidth. Many apps/services do stream at 60fps. Sincerely it is why I asked if you could narrow down which content and at what FPS was frustrating you the most. It sounds like you unfortunately are more susceptible to motion blur than many people. At the price point of the Epson projectors the company does have to decide which features to include and which they feel would not be worth it from a cost/value perspective. They decide many things for you when they design a product which may not have been the choice you would have made. They also decided to favor higher lumens and trying to improve colors, black level and HDR over giving you a true 4K panel. They could have added more features such as dynamic tone mapping, native 4k and motion smoothing when viewing 4K content. The price would have been at least double or triple the price. That is the direction JVC and Sony chose. Epson has made HDR and 4K more accessible to a great many people. Do they make the best projectors? No. Do they make the best projectors for the money? Most likely. I am sorry the frame Interpolation is so frustrating for you. I am sure you aren't the only owner who feels this way. I personally would like the projector to switch to the color profile I set up for HDR when it detects and HDR signal and switch back when it detects an SDR signal. I was told they would look into it . That was when the 5040 was introduced in 2016. You can see they decided for me that it wasn't important. To them. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Spiral1401 said:


> So doing some measurements.... I'm realizing now that there's a chance I won't be able to project at my 120 screen size, due width of my room minus the throw distance and the actual space this projector takes up is much larger than the W1070. 142 inch throw + 17.7 inch depth size on projector and my room is roughly 159 inches wide (and also have to consider it having cords plugged in needing to be offset from wall even further).
> 
> How do throw calculations work when you mount the projector offset from center, and use horizontal lens shift? According to the calculators, I'd have roughly 49 inches of horizontal lens shift to work with. Could I mount the 5050UB offset to my screen center to get it "further away" and ensure ability to project a 120 inch picture?
> 
> The projector calculators (webprojectorcalculator, projectorcentral - I'm not allowed to post links but you guys know these things) I've played around with thus far don't seem to consider this possibility, so perhaps it's either not an option or too remote of a situation to bother adding to the calculator.


Lens shift doesn't work like that. There was a thread about this but can't find it. I think @rekbones explained it.

In a room with 159" the largest screen can be ~115".


----------



## rekbones

Current LCD tech simply isn't fast enough to use FI with eshift engaged. Sony and JVC use LCOS tech that has a little faster switching speed. The same reason no LCD or even LCOS tech would allow a 4x eshift like the DLP tech is capable of.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rekbones said:


> Current LCD tech simply isn't fast enough to use FI with eshift engaged. Sony and JVC use LCOS tech that has a little faster switching speed. The same reason no LCD or even LCOS tech would allow a 4x eshift like the DLP tech is capable of.


Thank you for taking the time to pop in and explain that I really appreciate it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

rekbones said:


> Current LCD tech simply isn't fast enough to use FI with eshift engaged. Sony and JVC use LCOS tech that has a little faster switching speed. The same reason no LCD or even LCOS tech would allow a 4x eshift like the DLP tech is capable of.




I don’t believe this is accurate. FI is a processing feature, not a function of the panel or display tech. If the display tech can render 60fps, for example.. how those 60 frames are used, is a processing feature. Whether they be interpolated frames to upsample a 24fps source, or a native 60fps source.. the display can render both.

Heck, if you plug in an external video processor to an epson with eshift , like a lumagen or a madvr - you will be able to use FI. The display didn’t change .. it’s processing.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## pdoherty972

ivanhoek said:


> Therein lies the point.. The Sony and JVC cost more, and can deliver without that particular compromise.
> 
> Perhaps Epson can’t without a more powerful DSP that would also make the projector cost similarly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Kind of why I’m asking if FI is going to be added in a new firmware. If they can handle 60FPS 4K I’d think they could FI 30FPS 4K, but maybe not.


----------



## Strahan

Hello. I'm ready to dip my toe back into the world of front projection; I had a Sanyo PLV-Z4 like a decade ago. Really liked it. Can't recall why I sold it actually. Bought my first home, so I'm eager to make a dedicated theater room. Going to use an Epson 5050UB as the projector. Space is a little tight; I have ~16.5' to work with and I want a 120" screen. It'll fit fine, but I was curious as to how much space needs to be behind the unit. As the vents are on the front, I assumed I could hang it from the ceiling very close to the rear wall, just leaving a bit of space for me to be able to plug in the wires and such. I called Epson though and they said 2' clearance behind. 

Is that really necessary? That seems like a huge amount of wasted space when there is no venting at the rear of the projector. Does anyone have their PJ's rear close up to something, and have you had any issues with that? One review I read shown it on a bookshelf rather snug against the wall, so I'm hoping it's fine:


Spoiler















Also I'm spending most of my budget on the projector and work on the room and such. When I had the Z4, I had painted the wall and built a black velvet wrapped border for it. I don't want to do that this time, I figured I'll buy a screen. I can't afford a big name one, I was debating between two "Silver Ticket Products" screens. One silver, one white. Which do you think would work better with the 5050?


----------



## MississippiMan

Spiral1401 said:


> So doing some measurements.... I'm realizing now that there's a chance I won't be able to project at my 120 screen size, due width of my room minus the throw distance and the actual space this projector takes up is much larger than the W1070. 142 inch throw + 17.7 inch depth size on projector and my room is roughly 159 inches wide (and also have to consider it having cords plugged in needing to be offset from wall even further).



I do not see a problem with the above if I am reading and interpreting the above correctly, and a total room depth of 159" is available...including the Projector's body depth. Even allowing for 4" subtracted for cabling that would leave 155" depth between the PJ's Lens face and the screen.(14" to spare) Playing it safe and further reducing that depth from the Lens face to Screen to 150" affords a considerable 9" leeway, since the absolute closest throw for 120" diagonal (11'-9 = '117")


Of course no one should ever suggest that the PJ have no Zoom adjustment left whatsoever....but still......9" leeway is a godsend compared to what many must deal with.


Now if you meant 120""Wide" then absolutely....your out of luck.




> How do throw calculations work when you mount the projector offset from center, and use horizontal lens shift? According to the calculators, I'd have roughly 49 inches of horizontal lens shift to work with. Could I mount the 5050UB offset to my screen center to get it "further away" and ensure ability to project a 120 inch picture?



There's a "120" picture statement again.....


First off....the distance between the Lens face and a Screen is always linear...never measured angular. The later would require Key-stoning, and Lens Shift is only moving the image horizontally and always at the same throw distance. 



But the question still allows for a chance to address the limitations inherent in even the most proficient of PJs with considerable H&V Lens Shift.


When you do use at/near the maximum of Shift in one direction, you effectively eliminate the ability to use Shift in the other direction. Such loss is proportionate to the extent of Lens Shift used in one direction..













> The projector calculators (webprojectorcalculator, projectorcentral - I'm not allowed to post links but you guys know these things) I've played around with thus far don't seem to consider this possibility, so perhaps it's either not an option or too remote of a situation to bother adding to the calculator.



All such calculators should be considered to be guidelings to consider, never "Set in Stone"dictates.




noob00224 said:


> In a room with 159" the largest screen can be ~115".



Stillwondering if I'm missing "the Big Picture" here?


----------



## MississippiMan

Strahan said:


> Hello. I'm ready to dip my toe back into the world of front projection; I had a Sanyo PLV-Z4 like a decade ago. Really liked it. Can't recall why I sold it actually. Bought my first home, so I'm eager to make a dedicated theater room. Going to use an Epson 5050UB as the projector. Space is a little tight; I have ~16.5' to work with and I want a 120" screen. It'll fit fine, but I was curious as to how much space needs to be behind the unit. As the vents are on the front, I assumed I could hang it from the ceiling very close to the rear wall, just leaving a bit of space for me to be able to plug in the wires and such. I called Epson though and they said 2' clearance behind.
> 
> Is that really necessary? That seems like a huge amount of wasted space when there is no venting at the rear of the projector. Does anyone have their PJ's rear close up to something, and have you had any issues with that? One review I read shown it on a bookshelf rather snug against the wall, so I'm hoping it's fine:
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I'm spending most of my budget on the projector and work on the room and such. When I had the Z4, I had painted the wall and built a black velvet wrapped border for it. I don't want to do that this time, I figured I'll buy a screen. I can't afford a big name one, I was debating between two "Silver Ticket Products" screens. One silver, one white. Which do you think would work better with the 5050?



Ignore the 2' dictate. I have hung many Epson 5040 and 5050 units with just 6" between the Wall and the Connection panel.


The real concern would be to hang the unit to close to th Ceiling,or to crowd it into a Cabinet such as shown in your image. Ambient heat and a lack of circulation around the casing could elevate the temperature beyond what the Fan could dissipate except in High Altitude Mode...which is "Freight Train" loud.


By the way....if you absolutely feel you must go with a Mfg screen such as a Silver Ticket, then avoid the Silver. It'll be a shame if you do because since the Z4 was introduced, DIY Screen making has produced painted solutions that easily compare to $3999.00* screens....and lemmie tell ya sumptin'....no Silver Ticket need apply.


----------



## sniikki

sniikki said:


> Thanks. Based on that, it's no use to send it for a warranty work as the noise might appear again. Sucks as it was a really quiet projector few months. Still, the shifter whine is not nearly as bad as it was with a HT3550 I tested.


Forgot to mention that I hadn't noticed that the noise only exists in 59/60Hz. 4K enabled with 50Hz, the projector is indeed as quiet as without 4K enhancement. Still kinda sucks tho.


----------



## Spiral1401

MississippiMan said:


> I do not see a problem with the above if I am reading and interpreting the above correctly, and a total room depth of 159" is available...including the Projector's body depth. Even allowing for 4" subtracted for cabling that would leave 155" depth between the PJ's Lens face and the screen.(14" to spare) Playing it safe and further reducing that depth from the Lens face to Screen to 150" affords a considerable 9" leeway, since the absolute closest throw for 120" diagonal (11'-9 = '117")


I think you misunderstood, yeah. The room width is 159 inch, the projectors body depth is 17.7 inch, and the back clearance of additional 4 inch leaves only 137 (rounded) inch remaining for throw distance. I cannot put the projector inside the wall. And yes I am talking 120 inch diagonal screen.

That's why I had the thought that maybe HZ lens shift might allow me to fudge a few extra inches what with the help of good old Pythagoras, but it sounds like it doesn't work that way, and I'm thinking I probably shouldn't take the gamble to find out.

Anyway, I think I'll have to be on the hunt for a different model. Unfortunate as this one met everything else I wanted. Might just get the Benq HT3550 and hope I can deal with the input lag.


----------



## gunbunnysoulja

With the lens shift on this projector, can it sit on a tall shelf or will it still need to be upside down? Shelf height is even with the top of the screen at 99”. Screen size is 150”.

No biggie either way but sitting it on the shelf would be easier. Based on this picture, would it be better to mount higher anyways due to noise?


----------



## Malodium

I just ordered one of these and am looking for a mount. Is the Chief mount for this the 4500, and does anyone know of a good deal on one?


----------



## jch2

Malodium said:


> I just ordered one of these and am looking for a mount. Is the Chief mount for this the 4500, and does anyone know of a good deal on one? /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


The CHF4000 is white (for the 5050) and the CHF4500 is black (for the 6050). Authentic ones made my Epson/Chief (not knock-offs) are somewhat hard to find and generally cost around $300.

They are otherwise identical and both will work, so it really comes down to preference of a white or black ceiling mount and pole. I have a spare CHF4500 that came with my 6050 that I'm not using since I have a projection booth, so if you are interested PM me with an offer.


----------



## Malodium

jch2 said:


> The CHF4000 is white (for the 5050) and the CHF4500 is black (for the 6050). Authentic ones made my Epson/Chief (not knock-offs) are somewhat hard to find and generally cost around $300.
> 
> They are otherwise identical and both will work, so it really comes down to preference of a white or black ceiling mount and pole. I have a spare CHF4500 that came with my 6050 that I'm not using since I have a projection booth, so if you are interested PM me with an offer.



Didn't realize they were so expensive! I suppose I would actually need the white one, since I bought the 5050. I appreciate the offer though. I will look around and see if I can find a white one and if not, consider a black one. Will let you know though.


----------



## rekbones

gunbunnysoulja said:


> With the lens shift on this projector, can it sit on a tall shelf or will it still need to be upside down? Shelf height is even with the top of the screen at 99”. Screen size is 150”.
> 
> No biggie either way but sitting it on the shelf would be easier. Based on this picture, would it be better to mount higher anyways due to noise?


Yes it can. Projector can be 46% of screen height above or below the screen or anywhere in between inverted or right side up assuming no horizontal lens shift is used.


----------



## gunbunnysoulja

rekbones said:


> gunbunnysoulja said:
> 
> 
> 
> With the lens shift on this projector, can it sit on a tall shelf or will it still need to be upside down? Shelf height is even with the top of the screen at 99â€. Screen size is 150â€.
> 
> No biggie either way but sitting it on the shelf would be easier. Based on this picture, would it be better to mount higher anyways due to noise?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it can. Projector can be 46% of screen height above or below the screen or anywhere in between inverted or right side up assuming no horizontal lens shift is used.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thank you!


----------



## MississippiMan

Malodium said:


> Didn't realize they were so expensive! I suppose I would actually need the white one, since I bought the 5050. I appreciate the offer though. I will look around and see if I can find a white one and if not, consider a black one. Will let you know though.



You really want the Cheif RPA 357 Mount. The 4500 is more a specialty mount designed to be part of a package deal with the 6050, and more of a PITA to work with by comparison. The cost is significantly less for the RPA357....slightly more if you get the Elite model.


----------



## gene4ht

MississippiMan said:


> You really want the Cheif RPA 357 Mount. The 4500 is more a specialty mount designed to be part of a package deal with the 6050, and more of a PITA to work with by comparison. The cost is significantly less for the RPA357....slightly more if you get the Elite model.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-259.html#post52574281

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...0-2499-00-starting-tomorrow.html#post51077753


----------



## Strahan

MississippiMan said:


> Ignore the 2' dictate. I have hung many Epson 5040 and 5050 units with just 6" between the Wall and the Connection panel.
> 
> The real concern would be to hang the unit to close to th Ceiling,or to crowd it into a Cabinet such as shown in your image. Ambient heat and a lack of circulation around the casing could elevate the temperature beyond what the Fan could dissipate except in High Altitude Mode...which is "Freight Train" loud.
> 
> By the way....if you absolutely feel you must go with a Mfg screen such as a Silver Ticket, then avoid the Silver. It'll be a shame if you do because since the Z4 was introduced, DIY Screen making has produced painted solutions that easily compare to $3999.00* screens....and lemmie tell ya sumptin'....no Silver Ticket need apply.


Great, I'm glad to hear that can be ignored. Makes things much easier. My placement should allow for plenty of circulation, it'll be unenclosed just hanging from the ceiling. 

When you say avoid the silver; do you mean get a white screen instead of silver or do you mean avoid that Silver Ticket manufacturer? I thought about painting a screen, but I like the idea of an actual screen so if I decide to change up my format down the road I can just sell the existing screen and plop a new one in, no fuss no muss. Now if the only screen options were like $1000 or more I'd probably reconsider, but the silver ticket screens I looked at on Amazon are quite affordable. 

What I'd really like is a motorized, tab tensioned drop down so I can hang a regular TV on the wall and have the PJ screen drop in when needed but I can't find one for less than ~$1300 and that's out of the budget at the moment.


----------



## gunbunnysoulja

skylarlove1999 said:


> Now that is a big screen!!! It should be pretty amazing. What screen did you choose?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I have the Silver Ticket 16:9 150" AT (Woven Acoustic). https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-169150-wab


I got it last year for $379 (like new) on a labor day special. It's been in a box since then haha.


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## WestCDA

gunbunnysoulja said:


> I have the Silver Ticket 16:9 150" AT (Woven Acoustic). https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-169150-wab
> I got it last year for $379 (like new) on a labor day special. It's been in a box since then haha.


Don't leave it too long - I left a screen in the carton for a couple of years, and when I sold it the new owner found it had discolored all along one side as over time it had reacted with (presumably) packaging materials. 

I ended up buying the purchaser brand new replacement screen material, which effectively made the thing a total loss for me. Not happy about that, but at least I made it right for the guy who bought it.


----------



## ivanhoek

Strahan said:


> What I'd really like is a motorized, tab tensioned drop down so I can hang a regular TV on the wall and have the PJ screen drop in when needed but I can't find one for less than ~$1300 and that's out of the budget at the moment.



That’s how I started my theater. Elite screens makes decent tensioned motorized screens in your budget. However, I migrated to a fixed frame screen and removed the TV...

What I realized was that I enjoyed using the projector so much more than the TV, that the TV was hardly ever used. Also, the tab tensioned screen sways a little bit, perhaps from the AC or the subwoofers.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

WestCDA said:


> Don't leave it too long - I left a screen in the carton for a couple of years, and when I sold it the new owner found it had discolored all along one side as over time it had reacted with (presumably) packaging materials.
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up buying the purchaser brand new replacement screen material, which effectively made the thing a total loss for me. Not happy about that, but at least I made it right for the guy who bought it.


You sir are a stand up guy. I hope karma returns your good conduct to you ten fold.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Strahan

ivanhoek said:


> Also, the tab tensioned screen sways a little bit, perhaps from the AC or the subwoofers.


That would drive me nuts, so maybe I'm better off sticking to the fixed frame, lol


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## Malodium

MississippiMan said:


> You really want the Cheif RPA 357 Mount. The 4500 is more a specialty mount designed to be part of a package deal with the 6050, and more of a PITA to work with by comparison. The cost is significantly less for the RPA357....slightly more if you get the Elite model.





gene4ht said:


> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-259.html#post52574281
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/199-...0-2499-00-starting-tomorrow.html#post51077753



Thanks much, ill search for that one instead. Oh and MississippiMan,I hope you dont mind a PM soon about some paint? Need to start figuring all that out.


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## gunbunnysoulja

WestCDA said:


> gunbunnysoulja said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Silver Ticket 16:9 150" AT (Woven Acoustic). https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/str-169150-wab
> I got it last year for $379 (like new) on a labor day special. It's been in a box since then haha.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't leave it too long - I left a screen in the carton for a couple of years, and when I sold it the new owner found it had discolored all along one side as over time it had reacted with (presumably) packaging materials.
> 
> I ended up buying the purchaser brand new replacement screen material, which effectively made the thing a total loss for me. Not happy about that, but at least I made it right for the guy who bought it.
Click to expand...

I installed it this weekend! Projector should be here Thursday. I guess I’m getting the 5050UBe (free upgrade) as the vendor said they are backordered.


----------



## ShadowBoy

skylarlove1999 said:


> Now that is a big screen!!! It should be pretty amazing. What screen did you choose?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


They all seem big when you first get them. I have a 150", 16:9 but want to upgrade to a 170" 2:40:1 with my cinema renovation. I like the height/ width of the 150" for 16:9 but want it bigger for scope.


----------



## Strahan

ShadowBoy said:


> They all seem big when you first get them. I have a 150", 16:9 but want to upgrade to a 170" 2:40:1 with my cinema renovation. I like the height/ width of the 150" for 16:9 but want it bigger for scope.


I envy that you have space for such a setup lol. When I was house shopping potential theater room was a larger factor than it probably should have been in my decision making process, though alas, the one place that had a perfect setup was also out of budget. (sigh)

120" is the most I can do in my room. Of course, going from a 55" LCD it will still feel like the local cinema I expect. Really I should go with 110", because then I could mount the projector to shoot lengthwise down the room which would probably be a little better for seating but I really wanted to hit that 120" mark so when asked I could say I have "a ten foot TV"


----------



## DavidinGA

ShadowBoy said:


> They all seem big when you first get them. I have a 150", 16:9 but want to upgrade to a 170" 2:40:1 with my cinema renovation. I like the height/ width of the 150" for 16:9 but want it bigger for scope.


Right.

I have a 150" and it just seems normal to me. When friends come by they're in shock at how absurdly large it is. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## Porknz

Trying to decide between a 4k fire stick or a fire stick cube to go with my 5050ub. Anyone using one or the other?


----------



## Ladeback

Porknz said:


> Trying to decide between a 4k fire stick or a fire stick cube to go with my 5050ub. Anyone using one or the other?


I have had the Fire Cube since about when it came out and the Roku 4K Ultra. I like the Roku 4K Ultra better if just using the remote and it seems to be more responsive then the Cube. I bought the Cube because Alexa is built in. Sometimes it doesn't always hear you and when Alexa commercials come on or someone in a show says the name it mutes the sound. It was funny at first, not it just annoying. I am a big Amazon user and the Cube is nice if you want to order things from Amazon from your TV. 

I had tried another basic Roku before the Cube and didn't like it, but the 4K Ultra is much better and to me easier to use then the Cube. If you have a Best Buy near you you could get one and try it out. If you don't like it you could always take it back. Also I have paired my Roku with a Google Mini in my Theater and you can do the same with a Amazon Dot Echo device as well. So if you already have one of those you don't really need the Cube. Now the Cube does control everything I have plugged into me receiver except for my Google Fiber TV remote. It will control any of your streaming services that you have, but you need to be specific when talking to it giving it commands. This is why I like the 4K Ultra more. It seems to respond faster when you press a button then the Cube. Now I have the Roku app on my phone and that is handy as well. I have just added a Logitech Harmony Ultimate to my living room where I have Alexa and it seems to respond better then the main Cube remote.

I hope that helps and let me know if you have any questions.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Trying to decide between a 4k fire stick or a fire stick cube to go with my 5050ub. Anyone using one or the other?


I second the recommendation of the Roku Ultra I have a 4K fire stick and a cube and they just don't have the picture quality of the Roku Ultra and the user interface is horrible on Amazon products. I also have an Nvidia Shield and that has the best picture quality and the voice remote works very well on it. Best bang for your buck is the Roku Ultra if you can find it on sale. Black Friday Best Buy had them on sale for 50% off the manufacturer's suggested retail price so I bought three of them. Nvidia Shield only goes on sale once or twice a year and for not very much off not more than 20% off.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

skylarlove1999 said:


> I second the recommendation of the Roku Ultra I have a 4K fire stick and a cube and they just don't have the picture quality of the Roku Ultra and the user interface is horrible on Amazon products. I also have an Nvidia Shield and that has the best picture quality and the voice remote works very well on it. Best bang for your buck is the Roku Ultra if you can find it on sale. Black Friday Best Buy had them on sale for 50% off the manufacturer's suggested retail price so I bought three of them. Nvidia Shield only goes on sale once or twice a year and for not very much off not more than 20% off.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but if you need to bitstream lossless audio, the only out of the box option you have is the Nvidia Shield. Everything else, including the Roku can't do it. This would be for Dolby Atmos (TruHD) and DTS-X (DTS-MA).

And actually with a Fire Stick 4k, I think everything gets converted to DD+ 5.1. In a word the audio kind of sucks on this device. I have the Fire Stick 4k on 3 of my tv's but its mostly just bedroom tv's and my living room. My theater with the 6050ub and 5.1.2 setup gets the Nvidia Shield for lossless Atmos and DTS-X.

And in general the Fire Stick 4k has recently had many issues with audio sync issues...very annoying. Especially with Dolby Vision content from Netflix. I don't think I've ever had audio sync issues on the Nvidia Shield.

Now a days I just want things to work out of the box and I don't want to tinker with stuff. Hence why I'm not exploring the HTPC option and out of everything out there I think the Nvidia Shield is worth every penny.

I also have the hot fixes in place with my Shield so it is now correctly changing the color space between HDR and SDR.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dkcinema said:


> Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but if you need to bitstream lossless audio, the only out of the box option you have is the Nvidia Shield. Everything else, including the Roku can't do it. This would be for Dolby Atmos (TruHD) and DTS-X (DTS-MA).
> 
> 
> 
> And actually with a Fire Stick 4k, I think everything gets converted to DD+ 5.1. In a word the audio kind of sucks on this device. I have the Fire Stick 4k on 3 of my tv's but its mostly just bedroom tv's and my living room. My theater with the 6050ub and 5.1.2 setup gets the Nvidia Shield for lossless Atmos and DTS-X.
> 
> 
> 
> And in general the Fire Stick 4k has recently had many issues with audio sync issues...very annoying. Especially with Dolby Vision content from Netflix. I don't think I've ever had audio sync issues on the Nvidia Shield.
> 
> 
> 
> Now a days I just want things to work out of the box and I don't want to tinker with stuff. Hence why I'm not exploring the HTPC option and out of everything out there I think the Nvidia Shield is worth every penny.
> 
> 
> 
> I also have the hot fixes in place with my Shield so it is now correctly changing the color space between HDR and SDR.


The Ultra can do Atmos for Amazon Prime, VUDU and Disney Plus but not Netflix. The Shield can do Atmos on Netflix, Vudu and Prime but not Disney Plus. Hence the need for more than one streamer. Apple TV 4K supports Atmos on some streaming services as well. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## alangsk

I thought I just recently read the shield now does Atmos for Disney+? I could be wrong though.


----------



## dkcinema

skylarlove1999 said:


> The Ultra can do Atmos for Amazon Prime, VUDU and Disney Plus but not Netflix. The Shield can do Atmos on Netflix, Vudu and Prime but not Disney Plus. Hence the need for more than one streamer. Apple TV 4K supports Atmos on some streaming services as well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I should have clarified. I'm talking more about lossless Atmos quality. Atmos for streaming services is all compressed audio usually using Dolby Digital 5.1 with Atmos metadata.

I've also had the Apple TV 4k and Apple TV makes everything you play for example in Plex into a PCM format I believe. I never actually did test with my Yamaha Atmos capable receiver.

Of course everyone's needs will be different but I play a lot of my media through Plex and feed my projector and receiver 4k HDR with lossless object based audio (Atmos TruHD or DTS-X DTS-MA) when I can. And again, as far as I know, the only streaming out of box device that can pass audio data untouched and bitstreamed is the Nvidia Shield.

EVERYTHING ELSE will need to have Plex convert the audio in some way shape of form to another container. I heard the Apple TV converts the audio to PCM which is also lossless but I'm not sure how the receiver gets the data and if it can get the Atmos metadata for object sound.

For streaming services, as skylarlove pointed out get the right device for the services you use.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dkcinema said:


> I should have clarified. I'm talking more about lossless Atmos quality. Atmos for streaming services is all compressed audio usually using Dolby Digital 5.1 with Atmos metadata.
> 
> 
> 
> I've also had the Apple TV 4k and Apple TV makes everything you play for example in Plex into a PCM format I believe. I never actually did test with my Yamaha Atmos capable receiver.
> 
> 
> 
> Of course everyone's needs will be different but I play a lot of my media through Plex and feed my projector and receiver 4k HDR with lossless object based audio (Atmos TruHD or DTS-X DTS-MA) when I can. And again, as far as I know, the only streaming out of box device that can pass audio data untouched and bitstreamed is the Nvidia Shield.
> 
> 
> 
> EVERYTHING ELSE will need to have Plex convert the audio in some way shape of form to another container. I heard the Apple TV converts the audio to PCM which is also lossless but I'm not sure how the receiver gets the data and if it can get the Atmos metadata for object sound.
> 
> 
> 
> For streaming services, as skylarlove pointed out get the right device for the services you use.


Thanks for clarifying. Very good difference to point out. I believe that the Shield is the only streaming device of the ones mentioned that will play lossless Atmos audio from a movie retrieval service such as Plex. You can definitely hear the difference. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

alangsk said:


> I thought I just recently read the shield now does Atmos for Disney+? I could be wrong though.


https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/forums/shield-tv/9/328207/disney-is-now-available-on-shield/

You might be right. If you look at the thread above and sort the comments by new. Some people a week ago said Atmos is working. Someone also mentioned it wasn't an app update but a server side update from Disney's side.

Not sure...but the OP of the thread did also state that Atmos support coming soon. So i guess it was on their roadmap either way to get Atmos at some point.


----------



## skylarlove1999

alangsk said:


> I thought I just recently read the shield now does Atmos for Disney+? I could be wrong though.


I had read that it could also do Atmos for Disney Plus on the shield but I hadn't had a chance to test it out myself. I apologize if I provide incorrect information about that particular streaming service on the shield. I just wish every streamer will play whatever your audio and video system is capable of since we know all the streaming services are capable of Atmos at this point and many of them are capable of Dolby Vision as well, basically so we can all stop answering and asking this question.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

skylarlove1999 said:


> I had read that it could also do Atmos for Disney Plus on the shield but I hadn't had a chance to test it out myself. I apologize if I provide incorrect information about that particular streaming service on the shield. I just wish every streamer will play whatever your audio and video system is capable of since we know all the streaming services are capable of Atmos at this point and many of them are capable of Dolby Vision as well, basically so we can all stop answering and asking this question.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Well I think the question is still pretty important and I agree with you that most streaming services do support 4k HDR/Vision and Atmos.

I think the big issue still revolves around how each device handles the audio portion. I think pretty much every device handles 4k HDR/Vision pretty well now but even then there are still some exceptions. For example the Shiled (even the new one) doesn't do YouTube in HDR...pretty annoying when my Fire Stick 4k does it...


----------



## dkcinema

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thanks for clarifying. Very good difference to point out. I believe that the Shield is the only streaming device of the ones mentioned that will play lossless Atmos audio from a movie retrieval service such as Plex. You can definitely hear the difference.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I definitely agree with you here. I don't think I even have a great speaker setup or receiver. Very budget compared to what other people have lol and even then I notice the audio quality I get when I feed it a lossless Atmos or DTS-X track.


----------



## Porknz

Thanks for the great info. So much knowledge in this forum every time. What about placement. It sounds like it's worth getting the cube or roku ultra over the 4k stick, but that means placing it somewhere under he screen etc. correct? The stick could just go right into the projector. Do you guys have your streaming device near a ceiling mounted projector or elsewhere with more cables to run etc.?


Thanks.


----------



## Ladeback

Porknz said:


> Thanks for the great info. So much knowledge in this forum every time. What about placement. It sounds like it's worth getting the cube or roku ultra over the 4k stick, but that means placing it somewhere under he screen etc. correct? The stick could just go right into the projector. Do you guys have your streaming device near a ceiling mounted projector or elsewhere with more cables to run etc.?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


My Roku Ultra is not in my theater. It's in another room in my equipment rack. My Cube is on a TV stand in my living room and I don't see it. It just needs to be in the room so Alxa can hear you. I like that the Roku doesn't have to be in the room. If you have Dish Network, Exfinity, or Spectrum you can you the Cube with your cable box and tell it what channel you want. It also will work with YouTube TV, which I am starting to use and will be dropping Google Fiber TV to save some money. Now YTTV does not do even 5.1 surround, but don't care much since I am mostly watching TV with it. Most movies I do on Netflex or Prime.


----------



## JewDaddy

ivanhoek said:


> I don’t believe this is accurate. FI is a processing feature, not a function of the panel or display tech. If the display tech can render 60fps, for example.. how those 60 frames are used, is a processing feature. Whether they be interpolated frames to upsample a 24fps source, or a native 60fps source.. the display can render both.
> 
> Heck, if you plug in an external video processor to an epson with eshift , like a lumagen or a madvr - you will be able to use FI. The display didn’t change .. it’s processing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Ok now I'm super intrigued. I am one of the few who actually prefers FI with most sources. And yes, that includes 4K movies that most purists prefer to be untouched. I love the smooth effect that FI gives and I've been wondering ever since I bought my 5050 if they would ever add that to a 4k source. 

It was mentioned that there are external video processors that can add FI without the need of the Epson. Can someone elaborate on this? If there's a device I can hookup between my projector and receiver that way I can give any source FI no matter the content, I would be in HEAVEN! 

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

JewDaddy said:


> Ok now I'm super intrigued. I am one of the few who actually prefers FI with most sources. And yes, that includes 4K movies that most purists prefer to be untouched. I love the smooth effect that FI gives and I've been wondering ever since I bought my 5050 if they would ever add that to a 4k source.
> 
> It was mentioned that there are external video processors that can add FI without the need of the Epson. Can someone elaborate on this? If there's a device I can hookup between my projector and receiver that way I can give any source FI no matter the content, I would be in HEAVEN!
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Looking at the specs of the latest Lumagen I see no mention of FI support for 4K sources and it costs upwards of $7K. The new MadVR processor should be able do it but not sure, the pro version is $10K. A HTPC/w MadVR and a high end video card can do FI but only on local content no streaming. The traditional way FI works is to add an extra processed frame in between normal frames effectively doubling the frame rate. I have no clue how they do it externally without a projector accepting a 120hz input. Eshift projectors are all ready doubling the frame rate so FI would need to double it again as to why LCD panels aren't fast enough to do it traditionally.


----------



## skylarlove1999

JewDaddy said:


> Ok now I'm super intrigued. I am one of the few who actually prefers FI with most sources. And yes, that includes 4K movies that most purists prefer to be untouched. I love the smooth effect that FI gives and I've been wondering ever since I bought my 5050 if they would ever add that to a 4k source.
> 
> It was mentioned that there are external video processors that can add FI without the need of the Epson. Can someone elaborate on this? If there's a device I can hookup between my projector and receiver that way I can give any source FI no matter the content, I would be in HEAVEN!
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


JVC 4K projectors support motion smoothing up to 4K/60FPS 4:4:4. Rather than spend money on a video processor maybe get the better projector. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

rekbones said:


> Looking at the specs of the latest Lumagen I see no mention of FI support for 4K sources and it costs upwards of $7K. The new MadVR processor should be able do it but not sure, the pro version is $10K. A HTPC/w MadVR and a high end video card can do FI but only on local content no streaming. The traditional way FI works is to add an extra processed frame in between normal frames effectively doubling the frame rate. I have no clue how they do it externally without a projector accepting a 120hz input. Eshift projectors are all ready doubling the frame rate so FI would need to double it again as to why LCD panels aren't fast enough to do it traditionally.




If the source is 60hz, you’re correct... but most of the video/movies one wants to do FI on are 24hz. That can be processed with FI and output at 60hz just fine. No problem with “slow lcd panels”.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

Hey guys,

don't know if this has been posted before by someone else, but I think I have a problem with my 6050UB.

Problem is there since day 1, but didn't bother me that much and thought it could also be the 4k-player or something else. The first thing I ever watched on this projector was John Wick 3 and in the dark opening scene (camera pans over the city) I could see a small dark-purple line flickering shortly in the middle of the screen (left-right direction) really on the top. It would always come back when I play that scene. I started noticing it also in other dark movie scenes, where the lines would always be really short in length, always flickering, but always in the exact middle of the screen (again, left-right direction).

So today I'm setting up my new htpc with DSPlayer and suddenly in one of the menus I see the same line but now over almost the entire height of the screen. Completely disappears when I go out of that menu, and re-appears when I go into that menu.

Picture below. 

Does anyone have an idea what this could be ?

Second problem is that the lens memory doesn't put the lens back to the exact saved positions. It always requires re-adjusting after loading a memory position. I could live with that as I bought the projector in Finland (I'm in Belgium) and I might lose it for months if I need to send it back.

Any advice is appreciated, thanks !


----------



## reechings

jorisdriesen said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> 
> don't know if this has been posted before by someone else, but I think I have a problem with my 6050UB.
> 
> 
> 
> Problem is there since day 1, but didn't bother me that much and thought it could also be the 4k-player or something else. The first thing I ever watched on this projector was John Wick 3 and in the dark opening scene (camera pans over the city) I could see a small dark-purple line flickering shortly in the middle of the screen (left-right direction) really on the top. It would always come back when I play that scene. I started noticing it also in other dark movie scenes, where the lines would always be really short in length, always flickering, but always in the exact middle of the screen (again, left-right direction).
> 
> 
> 
> So today I'm setting up my new htpc with DSPlayer and suddenly in one of the menus I see the same line but now over almost the entire height of the screen. Completely disappears when I go out of that menu, and re-appears when I go into that menu.
> 
> 
> 
> Picture below.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have an idea what this could be ?
> 
> 
> 
> Second problem is that the lens memory doesn't put the lens back to the exact saved positions. It always requires re-adjusting after loading a memory position. I could live with that as I bought the projector in Finland (I'm in Belgium) and I might lose it for months if I need to send it back.
> 
> 
> 
> Any advice is appreciated, thanks !


I don't have this projector but first thought would be possible HDMI cable issue.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

Thanks for the feedback.

I have the same issue with 2 different types of (short) HDMI cable from my Shield to my Marantz and from my Panasonic UB420 to my Marantz. From Marantz to projector is a (more expensive) Riupro optical cable which I need because of the length. Will definitely switch cables tonight to see if that can be the problem.


----------



## Magnus_CA

Did anyone mount their screen higher than what's typically recommended to account for the change in viewing angle that comes from reclining your seat?

If so, did you still mount your screen parallel to the wall or did you mount the top edge further away from the wall than the bottom edge? If I mount the screen higher up on the wall to I'm tempted to furr the top edge away from the wall but I'm not sure if creating a configuration that requires a keystone adjustment is worth it.


----------



## gene4ht

jorisdriesen said:


> Second problem is that the lens memory doesn't put the lens back to the exact saved positions. It always requires re-adjusting after loading a memory position. I could live with that as I bought the projector in Finland (I'm in Belgium) and I might lose it for months if I need to send it back.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-153.html#post58895634


----------



## reechings

Anyone have any thoughts on best color to paint media room? Not planning to go black velvet treatment at this point. Leaning towards matte black ceiling and trim with a dark brown for the walls.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

reechings said:


> Anyone have any thoughts on best color to paint media room? Not planning to go black velvet treatment at this point. Leaning towards matte black ceiling and trim with a dark brown for the walls.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



Well the best color is matte black.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Magnus_CA

reechings said:


> Anyone have any thoughts on best color to paint media room? Not planning to go black velvet treatment at this point. Leaning towards matte black ceiling and trim with a dark brown for the walls.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


There's quite a few existing threads about paint color on avsforum. Google search it for links. Only thing I'd recommend is reading up on the burnishing potential of dark colors in a matte finish. Where you buy the paint from is just as important as the colors you choose.


----------



## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Anyone have any thoughts on best color to paint media room? Not planning to go black velvet treatment at this point. Leaning towards matte black ceiling and trim with a dark brown for the walls.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Rosco TV black for the ceiling 

https://www.filmtools.com/rosco-tv-paint-black.html

May I suggest grey in matte for the walls instead of brown? Brown and black in a room can clash.

https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/color-overview/find-your-color/color/2121-10/gray?color=2121-10

This is a great thread for dark theaters

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Vincent Jenkins

I bought a 5050 ube and I am trying to use my Denon AVR-1612 with the wireless link. For some reason I can't get the video to play from it to the epson. Is it because this is a 1080p receiver? If so is there a way to make this work while I look for a 4k projector? It sucks that I can't use my surround sound right now.


----------



## MississippiMan

reechings said:


> Anyone have any thoughts on best color to paint media room? Not planning to go black velvet treatment at this point. Leaning towards matte black ceiling and trim with a dark brown for the walls.



Matte Black is hard to get to look good.....careful spraying over a dark Grey Primer is the only assured Method. A Matte Black "rolled" will show every blemish or roller-induced artifact.


A great Color Scheme is a Ceiling done in a very, very Dark Neutral Grey, using a High Quality Acylic (Interior Water Based Enamel (Base 3-4) *also known a Primer/Paint combo*...and it should be in a "Flat"....not Matte. If such a paint in such a dark Shade of Grey is used, when the lights are down....the Ceiling will look Black, and it will attenuate all light to the extreme.. But...when the lights come up....even a Wife can appriciate the Deep Grey over a hideous, dusty looking Black.


So if that advice is taken....then the Walls should not be Brown. And Brown is not a good color to consider, unless it is Burnt Coffee or Dirty Motor Oil. Those colors are essentially "Black" except under bright or directed Light, and even then they attenuate so much light that discerning the actual color can be hard. But they ain't very pretty either, upon close scrutiny. Lighter Browns hit with projected light bounce tend to reflect the Yellow part of the spectrum, creating a yellowish tint to the room.


Matching up terrifically with a Dark Grey is a Very Dark saturated Red....also in a Flat Acrylic (...I always use PPG Diamond Flat Base 3...)



The Wood Trim and all fixtures would receive the same color as the Ceiling, only in a Oil Based Enamel in a Matte....which is achieved by starting with a Eggshell and having the Paint Tech add some deglossing fluid to bring the Eggshell down to Matte..


Round it all off with a Dark Grey discreetly Patterned Carpet and Black Theater Chairs and you'd have a extremely good performing Theater that does not compromise good looks





ivanhoek said:


> Well the best color is matte black.



Old School....and decidedly not really true. Any Black will disproportionately reflect Blue when it receives bright White or light Pastel imagery. And I almost forgot...it's awfully ugly.




Magnus_CA said:


> There's quite a few existing threads about paint color on avsforum. Google search it for links. Only thing I'd recommend is reading up on the burnishing potential of dark colors in a matte finish. Where you buy the paint from is just as important as the colors you choose.



Matte having just barely more sheen than Flat, can be problematical to use, especially if the Light producing surface is in close proximity. Usually it's best to frequent actual Paint Store for Wall & Ceiling Colors. Mostly because the Techs in those places service Architects, Builders, Pro Painters......and they know what to do to get you where you want to be.




skylarlove1999 said:


> Rosco TV black for the ceiling
> 
> https://www.filmtools.com/rosco-tv-paint-black.html



Too expensive for the so-so results and the PITA aspects it delivers.





> May I suggest grey in matte for the walls instead of brown? Brown and black in a room can clash.
> 
> https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/color-overview/find-your-color/color/2121-10/gray?color=2121-10


 Hey! What a great idea....







> This is a great thread for dark theaters
> 
> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app



Awww...TMI and primarily focused on expensive products that are not "all that".


It is a shame that Black Velvet cannot be considered....or at least in any area that is very close in and at right angle to the Screen.


Plush Triple Black Velvet is the absolute Bomb....nuthin' is better.


----------



## rekbones

Magnus_CA said:


> Did anyone mount their screen higher than what's typically recommended to account for the change in viewing angle that comes from reclining your seat?
> 
> If so, did you still mount your screen parallel to the wall or did you mount the top edge further away from the wall than the bottom edge? If I mount the screen higher up on the wall to I'm tempted to furr the top edge away from the wall but I'm not sure if creating a configuration that requires a keystone adjustment is worth it.


There is nothing wrong with tilting the top of your screen out and to avoid using any digital keystone all you need to do is angle the projector the same. This is a unique way to avoid using digital keystone with projectors with minimal lens shift that must be mounted a little below the top of the screen. The important part is the projector must be perpendicular to the screen. If the screen isn't plum the projector doesn't need to be level.


----------



## jorisdriesen

gene4ht said:


> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-153.html#post58895634


Thanks, will try that tonight !

Always thought it had something to do with the air gap when switching lens shift from left to right.


----------



## reechings

MississippiMan said:


> Matte Black is hard to get to look good.....careful spraying over a dark Grey Primer is the only assured Method. A Matte Black "rolled" will show every blemish or roller-induced artifact.
> 
> 
> A great Color Scheme is a Ceiling done in a very, very Dark Neutral Grey, using a High Quality Acylic (Interior Water Based Enamel (Base 3-4) *also known a Primer/Paint combo*...and it should be in a "Flat"....not Matte. If such a paint in such a dark Shade of Grey is used, when the lights are down....the Ceiling will look Black, and it will attenuate all light to the extreme.. But...when the lights come up....even a Wife can appriciate the Deep Grey over a hideous, dusty looking Black.
> 
> 
> So if that advice is taken....then the Walls should not be Brown. And Brown is not a good color to consider, unless it is Burnt Coffee or Dirty Motor Oil. Those colors are essentially "Black" except under bright or directed Light, and even then they attenuate so much light that discerning the actual color can be hard. But they ain't very pretty either, upon close scrutiny. Lighter Browns hit with projected light bounce tend to reflect the Yellow part of the spectrum, creating a yellowish tint to the room.
> 
> 
> Matching up terrifically with a Dark Grey is a Very Dark saturated Red....also in a Flat Acrylic (...I always use PPG Diamond Flat Base 3...)
> 
> 
> 
> The Wood Trim and all fixtures would receive the same color as the Ceiling, only in a Oil Based Enamel in a Matte....which is achieved by starting with a Eggshell and having the Paint Tech add some deglossing fluid to bring the Eggshell down to Matte..
> 
> 
> Round it all off with a Dark Grey discreetly Patterned Carpet and Black Theater Chairs and you'd have a extremely good performing Theater that does not compromise good looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Old School....and decidedly not really true. Any Black will disproportionately reflect Blue when it receives bright White or light Pastel imagery. And I almost forgot...it's awfully ugly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matte having just barely more sheen than Flat, can be problematical to use, especially if the Light producing surface is in close proximity. Usually it's best to frequent actual Paint Store for Wall & Ceiling Colors. Mostly because the Techs in those places service Architects, Builders, Pro Painters......and they know what to do to get you where you want to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Too expensive for the so-so results and the PITA aspects it delivers.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey! What a great idea....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awww...TMI and primarily focused on expensive products that are not "all that".
> 
> 
> It is a shame that Black Velvet cannot be considered....or at least in any area that is very close in and at right angle to the Screen.
> 
> 
> Plush Triple Black Velvet is the absolute Bomb....nuthin' is better.


Thank you so much for the informative post and sorry everyone for the off topic. The existing walls of the media room are a dark greenish grey. I don't think I want to do a dark red as much even though I'm sure it looks nice. I know that black velvet is probably the best solution but part of me really wants a thin frame screen and a room with some style still. I guess the screen is going to take up most of the one wall so I guess I could get a regular bordered screen and try to tack up some black velvet at least on that one wall. I just want it to look clean still. I will talk to my painter about the dark grey for the ceiling and trim.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Magnus_CA

rekbones said:


> There is nothing wrong with tilting the top of your screen out and to avoid using any digital keystone all you need to do is angle the projector the same. This is a unique way to avoid using digital keystone with projectors with minimal lens shift that must be mounted a little below the top of the screen. The important part is the projector must be perpendicular to the screen. If the screen isn't plum the projector doesn't need to be level.


I thought about doing this but I'd have to drop my projector to get the lens face parallel to the screen and I think I'm close to the bottom of the vertical offset already.


----------



## rekbones

Magnus_CA said:


> I thought about doing this but I'd have to drop my projector to get the lens face parallel to the screen and I think I'm close to the bottom of the vertical offset already.


You must have extremely high ceilings as the projector can be as much as 46% of screen height above the top of the screen


----------



## Northern_Lights

Anyone have experience with ceiling mounts from PCMD, LLC (Projector Ceiling Mounts Direct)?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Projector-...:gnsAAOSww5pcyb0I:sc:USPSPriority!49855!US!-1


It looks solid and I like the fact that it's made in the USA, but I'm wondering how easy it is to make fine adjustments with that particular model (very little dropdown, which I like because I only have 8 foot ceilings). 



I just received my 5050ub and I'm not sure that the mount I've been using with my Panasonoic PT-AE3000U will be sturdy enough (it already has a hard time staying in place).


----------



## skylarlove1999

Northern_Lights said:


> Anyone have experience with ceiling mounts from PCMD, LLC (Projector Ceiling Mounts Direct)?
> 
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Projector-...:gnsAAOSww5pcyb0I:sc:USPSPriority!49855!US!-1
> 
> 
> It looks solid and I like the fact that it's made in the USA, but I'm wondering how easy it is to make fine adjustments with that particular model (very little dropdown, which I like because I only have 8 foot ceilings).
> 
> 
> 
> I just received my 5050ub and I'm not sure that the mount I've been using with my Panasonoic PT-AE3000U will be sturdy enough (it already has a hard time staying in place).


I have used two of their mounts. Excellent quality . They also allow for trading in your mount as a credit towards a different mount if you buy a different projector in the future. The adjustments work well. About the same as any other for adjustments except for the more expensive mounts like Strong Fine Adjust and the upper end of the Chief mounts.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

@Northern_Lights





skylarlove1999 said:


> I have used two of their mounts. Excellent quality . They also allow for trading in your mount as a credit towards a different mount if you buy a different projector in the future. The adjustments work well. About the same as any other for adjustments except for the more expensive mounts like Strong Fine Adjust and the upper end of the Chief mounts.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I would also add that the Single Point adjustments of the PCMD Mount really it meant for "subtle" adjustments, and it's design was / is really meant for much lighter Projectors than a $24lb Epson. It's not that the mount will fail to hold the Weight, it just doesn't hold any "off axis load" securely. A big difference exists between even a 8lb PJ and a 16lb one. And 16 lb to 24 lb?


Let's just say give a try at hold a 5050 out at arm's length for even a couple seconds and you will get an idea of the stresses involved on any single screw adjustment point. 



All that means is that if you can mount the Projector close enough to Center/Squared to your desired image area...AND if the Ceiling surface is Flat...and level both ways...and the PJ Mount needs virtually no adjustments then yeah, a $60.00 mount might be sufficient. 



.............but it also seems like an appropriate time to say; "Your Results May Vary"


Well......at least it's not as bad as some trying to hang a JVC with one. It's confusing to me that anyone spending $3 to $6K on a Projector would waffle over the additional $100-130.00 needed for a excellent quality mount. Even the "Shoe Mount Style" Peerless PRG-UNV Universal is many MANY times superior, and only costs' in the $120.00 range.


Just remember...your not hanging a smaller DLP Presentation Projector here!


----------



## skylarlove1999

MississippiMan said:


> @Northern_Lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would also add that the Single Point adjustments of the PCMD Mount really it meant for "subtle" adjustments, and it's design was / is really meant for much lighter Projectors than a $24lb Epson. It's not that the mount will fail to hold the Weight, it just doesn't hold any "off axis load" securely. A big difference exists between even a 8lb PJ and a 16lb one. And 16 lb to 24 lb?
> 
> 
> Let's just say give a try at hold a 5050 out at arm's length for even a couple seconds and you will get an idea of the stresses involved on any single screw adjustment point.
> 
> 
> 
> All that means is that if you can mount the Projector close enough to Center/Squared to your desired image area...AND if the Ceiling surface is Flat...and level both ways...and the PJ Mount needs virtually no adjustments then yeah, a $60.00 mount might be sufficient.
> 
> 
> 
> .............but it also seems like an appropriate time to say; "Your Results May Vary"
> 
> 
> Well......at least it's not as bad as some trying to hang a JVC with one. It's confusing to me that anyone spending $3 to $6K on a Projector would waffle over the additional $100-130.00 needed for a excellent quality mount. Even the "Shoe Mount Style" Peerless PRG-UNV Universal is many MANY times superior, and only costs' in the $120.00 range.
> 
> 
> Just remember...your not hanging a smaller DLP Presentation Projector here!


All excellent points to make thank you I appreciate that

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Northern_Lights

MississippiMan said:


> @*Northern_Lights*
> 
> Even the "Shoe Mount Style" Peerless PRG-UNV Universal is many MANY times superior, and only costs' in the $120.00 range.
> 
> 
> Just remember...your not hanging a smaller DLP Presentation Projector here!



This one? https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRG-UNV-W-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G?th=1


The black option is about $100, the white option is about $140. The designs are a little different and the black unit actually looks sturdier, no? I'd gladly take the black one even though it doesn't match the white shell of the 5050.


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## matt21484

I've got the upgrade itch and have been looking very hard at the 5050ub. I don't have a perfect room, and am worried I'd be spending money for features I wouldn't be able to utilize. This is my basement and current setup with an Epson 2030 on a Silver Ticket 106" Grey screen. I've also been looking at the BenQ HT3550, do you think I'll get a $1K better picture in this environment? Mostly concerned about 4K movies at night. The kids (and I) game on it during the day, but nothing super competitive and we occasionally watch TV on it during the day. Complete setup is: Samsung UHD Blu Ray Player, OG Xbox One, Roku Streaming Stick+, Denon X3600H


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## Magnus_CA

rekbones said:


> You must have extremely high ceilings as the projector can be as much as 46% of screen height above the top of the screen


I have 10 foot ceilings. Not extremely high but not 8 feet. I also plan to mount my pj in a closet and cut an 8 inch high window in the wall to project the image through.


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## HTX^2steve

So an impulse buy on Alice in Wonderland in 3d...and SSG-5100GB glasses. Want to see how this 5050ub handles 3d. I never watched anything in 3d before any suggestions? From the menu it looks like I click on the 3D Setup?


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## ivanhoek

HTX^2steve said:


> So an impulse buy on Alice in Wonderland in 3d...and SSG-5100GB glasses. Want to see how this 5050ub handles 3d. I never watched anything in 3d before any suggestions? From the menu it looks like I click on the 3D Setup?



No. You just turn on the glasses and they sync to the projector. When you play a 3D BD in a supported player it will just start playing in 3D. No monkeying with settings required.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## HTX^2steve

ivanhoek said:


> No. You just turn on the glasses and they sync to the projector. When you play a 3D BD in a supported player it will just start playing in 3D. No monkeying with settings required.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Awesome...will give it a go tonight!


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## jorisdriesen

jorisdriesen said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> don't know if this has been posted before by someone else, but I think I have a problem with my 6050UB.
> 
> Problem is there since day 1, but didn't bother me that much and thought it could also be the 4k-player or something else. The first thing I ever watched on this projector was John Wick 3 and in the dark opening scene (camera pans over the city) I could see a small dark-purple line flickering shortly in the middle of the screen (left-right direction) really on the top. It would always come back when I play that scene. I started noticing it also in other dark movie scenes, where the lines would always be really short in length, always flickering, but always in the exact middle of the screen (again, left-right direction).
> 
> So today I'm setting up my new htpc with DSPlayer and suddenly in one of the menus I see the same line but now over almost the entire height of the screen. Completely disappears when I go out of that menu, and re-appears when I go into that menu.
> 
> Picture below.
> 
> Does anyone have an idea what this could be ?
> 
> Second problem is that the lens memory doesn't put the lens back to the exact saved positions. It always requires re-adjusting after loading a memory position. I could live with that as I bought the projector in Finland (I'm in Belgium) and I might lose it for months if I need to send it back.
> 
> Any advice is appreciated, thanks !


Anyone on this ? Options I can test ?


----------



## jaredmwright

jorisdriesen said:


> Anyone on this ? Options I can test ?


I would reach out to Epson to get it replaced, obviously something is not right.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## ht guy

MississippiMan said:


> ...It is a shame that Black Velvet cannot be considered....or at least in any area that is very close in and at right angle to the Screen.
> 
> Plush Triple Black Velvet is the absolute Bomb....nuthin' is better.


Do you have a favorite source you could share?


----------



## HTX^2steve

My intro to 3D was short lived..What a killjoy...that didn't take long...ugh. Sooooo now I have to take off my sit back and enjoy the movie hat and replace it with the trouble shooting one. I am going to say it would be one of five things?...the disc, the sony x700, my yamaha receiver, hdmi cable or the Epson. 

Any thoughts on where to start?


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## biglen

ht guy said:


> Do you have a favorite source you could share?


This is what I used, and it's great stuff, just read the reviews. I don't think you'll find a better price either.

45" Black Triple Velvet-30 Yards Wholesale by the Bolt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EEJSG90/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_zEJfSPa16CeW3

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## HTX^2steve

It appears that after I did a FIRMWARE update to the SONY x700 player DOLBY VISION was added and switched on thus disabling the 3D capabilities. Thanks Steve...Your welcome Steve.


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## ShadowBoy

Strahan said:


> I envy that you have space for such a setup lol. When I was house shopping potential theater room was a larger factor than it probably should have been in my decision making process, though alas, the one place that had a perfect setup was also out of budget. (sigh)
> 
> 120" is the most I can do in my room. Of course, going from a 55" LCD it will still feel like the local cinema I expect. Really I should go with 110", because then I could mount the projector to shoot lengthwise down the room which would probably be a little better for seating but I really wanted to hit that 120" mark so when asked I could say I have "a ten foot TV"


Well our home cinema is in a seperate building that I built as a 4 car garage, but switched it to cinema , gym and workshop that is now being renovated to a cinema/ second house. It's basically the size of our regular house, but one open box except for the bathroom. So it's 45 feet by 22 feet by 12 feet. I've upgraded all my equipment to do Atmos, 4k and will install a new scope screen. That's if Covid-19 doesn't kill me before I finish the renovation.


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## Granny Lee

I would really like to get one of this but.. Can't find anywhere here in Canada. Pretty sad about it.


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## reechings

Granny Lee said:


> I would really like to get one of this but.. Can't find anywhere here in Canada. Pretty sad about it.


https://www.eastporters.com/product/epson-5050ub/

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## gunbunnysoulja

I got my 5050UBe up and running last night after getting in on a slickdeal last week. Definitely a fan of the quality despite having light painted walls in a large open space. Lots of ambient light in my living room but we plan to only watch at night. I didn’t change any settings except putting the projector in digital cinema mode. Very quiet projector and the lens shift with motorized lens is awesome!


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## Granny Lee

reechings said:


> https://www.eastporters.com/product/epson-5050ub/
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


This seller is listed by Epson as one of the unauthorized sellers. I guess buying from them will void the warranty.


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## reechings

Granny Lee said:


> This seller is listed by Epson as one of the unauthorized sellers. I guess buying from them will void the warranty.


They told me that they buy from an authorized seller and that they have been getting warranty work done through Epson for years. Take that for what you will but I know a lot of people have bought through them.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## Janhaus

Looking for some advice - I purchased a 5050UB right as they first came out, and long story short, my unit had a lens defect so I exchanged it with Epson for a refurbished unit, since the original was still under warranty. I utilized the same calibration settings on the replacement unit as I used on the one before (copied from posts on forum) but I'm consistently seeing a bluish tint on white areas of various scenes, notably in faces and backgrounds like white bedsheets, white walls etc. Picture attached. 

Is this more likely a calibration/setting error or maybe a defect in the replacement unit? I've ordered a colorimeter to help test and verify. Would welcome any thoughts, as I have a couple weeks left under the original warranty so I think I have to figure this out soon-ish.


----------



## ivanhoek

Janhaus said:


> Looking for some advice - I purchased a 5050UB right as they first came out, and long story short, my unit had a lens defect so I exchanged it with Epson for a refurbished unit, since the original was still under warranty. I utilized the same calibration settings on the replacement unit as I used on the one before (copied from posts on forum) but I'm consistently seeing a bluish tint on white areas of various scenes, notably in faces and backgrounds like white bedsheets, white walls etc. Picture attached.
> 
> Is this more likely a calibration/setting error or maybe a defect in the replacement unit? I've ordered a colorimeter to help test and verify. Would welcome any thoughts, as I have a couple weeks left under the original warranty so I think I have to figure this out soon-ish.



Copying settings isn’t calibration. Once you actually calibrate then you’ll get correct color temperature.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Rob Greer

I feel really stupid asking this question, but can anyone point me to resources for fixing my pattern issues? 

I’ve done the requisite googling and watched a few things, but everything has been really simplistic and I can’t figure out what adjustments I need to make to fix this problem (as seen in the photo).

The projector is level on both axis and the screen is level both at the top and on the vertical. I’ve tried adjusting the yaw, but that just seems to make things worse.

Also, is there a way to reset just the lens shift and the zoom to the default settings?










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Rob Greer said:


> I feel really stupid asking this question, but can anyone point me to resources for fixing my pattern issues?
> 
> I’ve done the requisite googling and watched a few things, but everything has been really simplistic and I can’t figure out what adjustments I need to make to fix this problem (as seen in the photo).
> 
> The projector is level on both axis and the screen is level both at the top and on the vertical. I’ve tried adjusting the yaw, but that just seems to make things worse.
> 
> Also, is there a way to reset just the lens shift and the zoom to the default settings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk








This is the best video I've seen to help fix what I believe is your issue you can watch all of it but I think it'll be most helpful starting around minutes 13

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## HTX^2steve

Remember that on the Epson once you have it exactly where you want it..it won't save to where you think is correct. It drove me nuts because Epson couldn't get their ship together and fix that lens memory bullship! So now I get is close to where it needs to be and manually adjust the projector mount to get in tuned in.


----------



## Rob Greer

skylarlove1999 said:


> This is the best video I've seen to help fix what I believe is your issue you can watch all of it but I think it'll be most helpful starting around minutes 13
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Thank you sir. You are the man.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## rekbones

Rob Greer said:


> I feel really stupid asking this question, but can anyone point me to resources for fixing my pattern issues?
> 
> I’ve done the requisite googling and watched a few things, but everything has been really simplistic and I can’t figure out what adjustments I need to make to fix this problem (as seen in the photo).
> 
> The projector is level on both axis and the screen is level both at the top and on the vertical. I’ve tried adjusting the yaw, but that just seems to make things worse.
> 
> Also, is there a way to reset just the lens shift and the zoom to the default settings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is why I would never recommend a zero edge screen to anyone. Most of us just zoom out a bit to absorb the minor imperfections in the velvet border. There are so many things that can be slightly out by just a few millimeters and it can be very difficult to get it exact. Make sure the screen isn't slightly racked and measure corner to corner. Use a plumb bob to make sure all parts of the screen are perfectly plumb. Possibly use a string to measure the distance from the lens to each corner of the screen to make sure they are exactly the same.


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## Rob Greer

rekbones said:


> This is why I would never recommend a zero edge screen to anyone. Most of us just zoom out a bit to absorb the minor imperfections in the velvet border. There are so many things that can be slightly out by just a few millimeters and it can be very difficult to get it exact. Make sure the screen isn't slightly racked and measure corner to corner. Use a plumb bob to make sure all parts of the screen are perfectly plumb. Possibly use a string to measure the distance from the lens to each corner of the screen to make sure they are exactly the same.




It’s not a zero edge screen. Just a thin border. With the video above, I was able to figure it out. The parts that were missing for me were:

* level the line to the top first
* rotate toward the low side

Once I had those details, it was relatively easy to get 99% good. 

However, that “clicks” mount in the video looked lots easier to adjust than the Chief (although the Chief looks like a better build quality). 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## amwash

*Question re 2.35:1 setup*

Question re updating my setup.

I've had a panasonic that has lasted me over a decade with a 100" 16:9 screen. Updating and was looking at the 5050UB. I watch movies almost exclusively, so was thinking of a 2.35:1 setup, with a wider screen. Unfortunately, I can set the projector (ceiling-mount) only about 10 feet away. (There's ductwork in the basement ceiling parallel to and 12 feet away from the projection wall, and the projector needs to be on the projection wall side of the ducts so that it doesn't have to hang down below the ducts). Looking at the projector central calculator, it looks like I will be at the end of the zoom capability. In that case, it seems like there will be no benefit to getting a 2.35:1 screen, since I won't be able to enlarge the image beyond the width of the 100" screen I already have. So, I either stick with the screen I currently have, or I get a different projector that has greater zoom capability (like the BenQ HT3550?) so that I can get a screen that is wider than the 100" diag screen that I have now.

Am I thinking about this correctly? Is a 95" 2.35 with the Epson (since I don't see 100" diag 2.35 screens) better than a 115" with the BenQ? Is there any downside to projecting at the maximum zoom capability?

Thanks for any responses!


----------



## aeneas01

is there any way to disable the lens 1 and lens 2 buttons on the remote? when i accidentally push a lens 1 or 2 button, even if my lens position is already tied to one of the buttons i accidentally pushed, my projector goes into lens position mode and slowly re-positions my lens, which is a drag in itself, but to make matters worse the lens position memory isn't exact, i.e. it doesn't recall the exact position that you memorized, very close but not exact, which means you have to re-position it all over again to get it to where it was... i see where you lock the lens setting in the menu, but all that does is not allow you to use the remote control's lens setup button...


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## Luminated67

Rob Greer said:


> Thank you sir. You are the man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The problem is that very seldom is everything square or exactly level and what might looks level is very different when you extend this several meters which is what is happening with the light from your projector which is why mounts have multiple adjustments. 

Anyway glad you got it sorted.


----------



## jaredmwright

Rob Greer said:


> Thank you sir. You are the man.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I recommend velvet around the first few feat all around the screen to reduce the reflections, it will help with image significantly.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Rob Greer

jaredmwright said:


> I recommend velvet around the first few feat all around the screen to reduce the reflections, it will help with image significantly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




This photo is with the lights on in my theater including the screen back light. Things you can see with the lights on are my bass traps and my speakers. Without my lights, you can see almost nothing other than reflections from my gloss black speakers.

My walls are already painted Benjamin Moore obsidian and it doesn’t get any darker than that without velvet. And I’ve never seen a velvet installation that looks as clean as paint or one that doesn’t potentially add acoustic issues that also need to be overcome. So I’ll stick with my obsidian. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Northern_Lights

Rob Greer said:


> Also, is there a way to reset just the lens shift and the zoom to the default settings?



Just setting up my 5050ub (purchased used) and I'm wondering this exact same thing. I wish they had numeric indicators on the Lens Adjustment screens so you could zero them out before mounting, and only adjust lens shift if absolutely needed. I imagine there's a way to do a total reset of the projector to factory settings, so maybe I'll explore that; this wouldn't eliminate the current firmware, though, would it?


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## Mrkazador

I have madvr to Auto switch refresh rates and as soon as I exited the media player, the 5050 crashed and I got the flashing blue/orange light...I had to unplug it. Hopefully it was a one time thing as it only has about 40hrs.


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## aeneas01

can someone tell me how to match the 6050ub's gamma settings (-2, -1, 0, 1, 2, etc) to the madvr gamma settings (1.90, 1.95, 2.00, 2.05, 2.10, etc,)? i'm trying to match my 6050ub's gamma setting to madvr's gamma setting, which is recommended, but can't tell what equals what...

for example, if i set the 6050ub to 1.0, what's the madvr equivalent? 1.80? 1.90? 2.10? what? thanks very much!


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## kincade

Northern_Lights said:


> Just setting up my 5050ub (purchased used) and I'm wondering this exact same thing. I wish they had numeric indicators on the Lens Adjustment screens so you could zero them out before mounting, and only adjust lens shift if absolutely needed. I imagine there's a way to do a total reset of the projector to factory settings, so maybe I'll explore that; this wouldn't eliminate the current firmware, though, would it?



I have the same question too - I'm not positive if I hit a horizontal shift during the initial setup - and would very much like to start from zero. I've hit all 3 resets and none change the lens shift, nor is there an indicator on where I am.


----------



## Keith AP

kincade said:


> I have the same question too - I'm not positive if I hit a horizontal shift during the initial setup - and would very much like to start from zero. I've hit all 3 resets and none change the lens shift, nor is there an indicator on where I am.


 Not sure this is the same thing you're trying to achieve, from the manual:

"To move the lens to the home position, press and hold the Lens button on the remote control for at least three seconds."

From there you can save the current position to any/all of the lens memories.


----------



## amwash

Seeing if anyone has any thoughts on my request below. Thanks very much!



amwash said:


> Question re updating my setup.
> 
> I've had a panasonic that has lasted me over a decade with a 100" 16:9 screen. Updating and was looking at the 5050UB. I watch movies almost exclusively, so was thinking of a 2.35:1 setup, with a wider screen. Unfortunately, I can set the projector (ceiling-mount) only about 10 feet away. (There's ductwork in the basement ceiling parallel to and 12 feet away from the projection wall, and the projector needs to be on the projection wall side of the ducts so that it doesn't have to hang down below the ducts). Looking at the projector central calculator, it looks like I will be at the end of the zoom capability. In that case, it seems like there will be no benefit to getting a 2.35:1 screen, since I won't be able to enlarge the image beyond the width of the 100" screen I already have. So, I either stick with the screen I currently have, or I get a different projector that has greater zoom capability (like the BenQ HT3550?) so that I can get a screen that is wider than the 100" diag screen that I have now.
> 
> Am I thinking about this correctly? Is a 95" 2.35 with the Epson (since I don't see 100" diag 2.35 screens) better than a 115" with the BenQ? Is there any downside to projecting at the maximum zoom capability?
> 
> Thanks for any responses!


----------



## NxNW

amwash said:


> Seeing if anyone has any thoughts on my request below. Thanks very much!


These are fairly different projectors. If every showroom in the country weren’t closed at the moment I’d recommend you go get some hands on experience with both. At a minimum you’d get a very quick understanding of the difference between 8 lbs and 24 lbs.

Your larger question is philosophical: do you want to make the move to 2.35. That requires more day-in, day-out effort to deal with. Short answer, you’ll want a projector that allows you to easily switch between 16:9 and 2.35 content. You will probably use the “zoom” method. I don’t recommend the BenQ for this.

For the zoom method, lens memory is very helpful. Note the BenQ does not have lens memory. For that matter the BenQ does not quite meet the minimum necessary zoom ratio of 1.33, although at 1.30 it’s close: with a big enough black border around your screen you can just muddle through. Note this comes at the cost of losing all placement flexibility: there is only one *exact* mounting location that allows this compromise. Finally it’s not just zoom, you have to tilt the mount every time you go back and forth.

I have years of experience using a 1.3 zoom range BenQ and CIH zoom method. It’s hard. I use a Lumagen (an accessory that costs many times the price of the projector) to get rid of the need for tilt. But it’s still manual zoom and re focus every time.

My personal take, as a 2.35 enthusiast, is the wide screen is usually worth the effort. (Specifically, with a 95” 16:9 screen, Star Wars occupies an area of 82x34, whereas with your same-height 115” 2.35 screen, it fills your 106x46 frame. A full 1.75x bigger image. That’s the beauty of CIH.) But since you don’t have the room to go with anything but a short throw projector or a small screen, you may want to put off making the move. On the one hand bigger is better. Let’s admit it, even a mediocre projector can impress when you throw a big image. On the other hand, a better projector improves all content, not just wide format movies.

It’s just impossible to ignore that the HT3550 has produced some frustrating experiences for owners. Check that thread for details. I auditioned the HT3550. It’s an interesting entrant in a growing market segment (moderately priced projectors that accept HDR signals) . But here I am posting in the Epson thread. Draw your own conclusions. 

One final technical consideration, the BenQ is not as bright, and on a 115” diagonal this starts to matter if you ever watch 3D or use the WCG filter or have less than optimal ambient light or room reflection issues.

But if you need CIH now, fine, get the BenQ, save some bucks, and upgrade later as the technology (or perhaps a new room) allows.


----------



## covsound1

well i just got my 5050 last night. out the box it was just bad my 5040 with all its custom settings just blew it out the box.on my 5040 which i had for 2+ years was finally dialed in within the last two days to give me some off the most impressive photo or old school jvc like gama?i thought well when the 5050 shows up i would just send it back and spend the extra money and go with the jvc nx5 as the sony sony 295 did not impress me. that boy wonder took over and i opened up 5050 know it would cost me 405 dollars plus the cost of the new projector! out the box it was a nightmare too soft,no velvet blacks,no photo or oled like pop it was brighter a plus over all not happy at all!when i switched to normal edid i lost the picture and was greeted with a dark black screen and a large round green tinted black,it wasn't a dust blob.i said to my self just lost 405 dollars and wondered it the jvc could beat what i was getting from 5040 if any projector for that matter! i plugged in advance cms setting from projecttorreview it looked better but still soft and flat like the sony 295 i saw at bestbuy.i pushed on that boy wounder in me time to play and apply what i learned in the last 3 nights with the 5040.folks let me tell you words just cant explain,dont worry about ek 4k or all the other stuff get this monster it is that good and better than the 5040 and dare i say anything in the 10000 dollar range or equal! my set up using a old school hp 2.8 screen 16.9 106 inch projector just over my seated position about 15 feet away.trip lite power 120v reg plugged into av and projector living room with large opening into foyer behind me. ruko and panny 420 4kblue ray,and sony 4kblue ray palyer. with the ruko i could get 4k hdr at 10 bit444 60 frames but found 4k hdr 8bit 420 at 59.5 to be more stable but at the cost of banning but less than what i getting with the 5040 also note this is with edit set to normal. with the panny i got 4k 12 bit444 at 24 with edit set to expanded no banning at all even with amazon wish they would add vudo app. the sony did not try but will use that for 1080p blue ray with up conversion to 4k why it just does it better than anything else even better than epson well it did on my 5040? on the 5040 gamma go up on the 5050 it goes down mid range leave it alone just the bottom and a little at the top. rgb 48,47,47 gain colors become rich bring up the color start above 55 match what you get on your tv go up close you will see what mean.you can drop the brightness down below 50 or raise to 55 like what i used for the 5040 .some may say why not give exact settings i rather point you and let you learn so you can answer your own question! now for the picture,back in the day jvc was able apply a gamma curve that gave the best blacks or a dark flim like look(i know the hate will come so be it!)with the event of hdr there new projectors dont have that same look why because with hdr it just does not work and the new nx models are more like all new projectors.i say this because its all about the controls or tools and wih that understanding(more hate)you can get to the same place as long as the machine has the tools! and folks the 5050 has it all! the sharpness with the best source source set to 5 will compete with true native 4k. my friend has a sony 295 and this 5050 looks sharper. color this 5050 puts out pure color with no noise a lot better than the 5040 you can push it up and it stays rich and full.high lamp mode is not as loud as the 4050 a plus! and with the filter dare i say canon like it feels like i am getting more than the 1100 nits tested. lazier dlp impress me with color pop in the mid range when its dialed in i think this thing has more. you will watch animated flims with amazement!with the 5040 i never could get anything with out using the color filter to hold me for the long game well with animal i used the bw mode and got a color balance that made throw my fist the air reds greens blue all balanced and in eco mode i could do this and never feel a need to use the filter! last lets talk about the blacks! on the 5040 i thought i arrived at a picture that could not get any better the blacks where velvet and the reason i picked on the old school jvc.(the force wil not be with me witth the 5050 after i dailed it in i didnt the same look or photo like look but after a while i notice the picture was better way better.how i started to notice things in the picture i never notice before like all that velvet black was not velvet after all.(what the hell is this fool talking about!) well those blacks we all adore have shades a vast amount off shades of color. yes color in the blacks not just dark old school jvc like blacks.what ever is going on with the new pixel ****(not a typo) it works not only for mid range color that is noise free but color in black! black bars for are a little darker than the 5040 with less light bleed another plus.if you are on the fence about getting this projector once dialed in you will be forever happy and also once dial in the hdr brightness control is all you will need from movie to movie.


----------



## matt21484

Anybody have experience with this particular ceiling mount? I've been using this for approx 5 years with an Epson 2030, which is orders of magnitude smaller than the 5050 I just ordered.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067OOHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## GZoomer

matt21484 said:


> Anybody have experience with this particular ceiling mount? I've been using this for approx 5 years with an Epson 2030, which is orders of magnitude smaller than the 5050 I just ordered.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067OOHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I use that mount. Works for me. I’m sure there are better mounts. When I looked at specifications weight seems to very close to limit. I inherited the mount from previous home owner. Currently have 5050ub mounted using it. I’ve never had different mount so can’t say how it might compare. I do have to add that there is a bit of play in it. If the projector is bumped hard I have to tweak the mount and lens shift. It doesn’t seem to drift over time just when bumped. This may have to do with the above ceiling setup more than the mount it self. Cardboard is involved which seems like a bad idea. See images. Hmm does the image function not work. I added some but they don’t show up. I added a link which works. I’ve already spent to much of my life troubleshooting tech issues. That will have to do.

https://lightroom.adobe.com/shares/f36d5cca197c450b88480a8c2293fc94


----------



## matt21484

GZoomer said:


> I use that mount. Works for me. I’m sure there are better mounts. When I looked at specifications weight seems to very close to limit. I inherited the mount from previous home owner. Currently have 5050ub mounted using it. I’ve never had different mount so can’t say how it might compare. Hmm does the image function not work. I added some but they don’t show up.


Fantastic, thank you! I can’t see the images you added


----------



## noob00224

matt21484 said:


> Anybody have experience with this particular ceiling mount? I've been using this for approx 5 years with an Epson 2030, which is orders of magnitude smaller than the 5050 I just ordered.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067OOHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


5050 is 24.7lbs and that mount is rated for 30. 

I would spend a little for a sturdier mount. Been talked about here and other UB series threads.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...t-ceiling-mount-did-you-use-epson-5040-a.html


----------



## Superman2

covsound1 said:


> well i just got my 5050 last night. out the box it was just bad my 5040 with all its custom settings just blew it out the box.on my 5040 which i had for 2+ years was finally dialed in within the last two days to give me some off the most impressive photo or old school jvc like gama?i thought well when the 5050 shows up i would just send it back and spend the extra money and go with the jvc nx5 as the sony sony 295 did not impress me. that boy wonder took over and i opened up 5050 know it would cost me 405 dollars plus the cost of the new projector! out the box it was a nightmare too soft,no velvet blacks,no photo or oled like pop it was brighter a plus over all not happy at all!when i switched to normal edid i lost the picture and was greeted with a dark black screen and a large round green tinted black,it wasn't a dust blob.i said to my self just lost 405 dollars and wondered it the jvc could beat what i was getting from 5040 if any projector for that matter! i plugged in advance cms setting from projecttorreview it looked better but still soft and flat like the sony 295 i saw at bestbuy.i pushed on that boy wounder in me time to play and apply what i learned in the last 3 nights with the 5040.folks let me tell you words just cant explain,dont worry about ek 4k or all the other stuff get this monster it is that good and better than the 5040 and dare i say anything in the 10000 dollar range or equal! my set up using a old school hp 2.8 screen 16.9 106 inch projector just over my seated position about 15 feet away.trip lite power 120v reg plugged into av and projector living room with large opening into foyer behind me. ruko and panny 420 4kblue ray,and sony 4kblue ray palyer. with the ruko i could get 4k hdr at 10 bit444 60 frames but found 4k hdr 8bit 420 at 59.5 to be more stable but at the cost of banning but less than what i getting with the 5040 also note this is with edit set to normal. with the panny i got 4k 12 bit444 at 24 with edit set to expanded no banning at all even with amazon wish they would add vudo app. the sony did not try but will use that for 1080p blue ray with up conversion to 4k why it just does it better than anything else even better than epson well it did on my 5040? on the 5040 gamma go up on the 5050 it goes down mid range leave it alone just the bottom and a little at the top. rgb 48,47,47 gain colors become rich bring up the color start above 55 match what you get on your tv go up close you will see what mean.you can drop the brightness down below 50 or raise to 55 like what i used for the 5040 .some may say why not give exact settings i rather point you and let you learn so you can answer your own question! now for the picture,back in the day jvc was able apply a gamma curve that gave the best blacks or a dark flim like look(i know the hate will come so be it!)with the event of hdr there new projectors dont have that same look why because with hdr it just does not work and the new nx models are more like all new projectors.i say this because its all about the controls or tools and wih that understanding(more hate)you can get to the same place as long as the machine has the tools! and folks the 5050 has it all! the sharpness with the best source source set to 5 will compete with true native 4k. my friend has a sony 295 and this 5050 looks sharper. color this 5050 puts out pure color with no noise a lot better than the 5040 you can push it up and it stays rich and full.high lamp mode is not as loud as the 4050 a plus! and with the filter dare i say canon like it feels like i am getting more than the 1100 nits tested. lazier dlp impress me with color pop in the mid range when its dialed in i think this thing has more. you will watch animated flims with amazement!with the 5040 i never could get anything with out using the color filter to hold me for the long game well with animal i used the bw mode and got a color balance that made throw my fist the air reds greens blue all balanced and in eco mode i could do this and never feel a need to use the filter! last lets talk about the blacks! on the 5040 i thought i arrived at a picture that could not get any better the blacks where velvet and the reason i picked on the old school jvc.(the force wil not be with me witth the 5050 after i dailed it in i didnt the same look or photo like look but after a while i notice the picture was better way better.how i started to notice things in the picture i never notice before like all that velvet black was not velvet after all.(what the hell is this fool talking about!) well those blacks we all adore have shades a vast amount off shades of color. yes color in the blacks not just dark old school jvc like blacks.what ever is going on with the new pixel ****(not a typo) it works not only for mid range color that is noise free but color in black! black bars for are a little darker than the 5040 with less light bleed another plus.if you are on the fence about getting this projector once dialed in you will be forever happy and also once dial in the hdr brightness control is all you will need from movie to movie.




Huh?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

Superman2 said:


> Huh?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


i know had nothing to do lol.trying to stay in the house witn this virus stuff and also trying to convince myself its better sorry.


----------



## Ladeback

covsound1 said:


> i know had nothing to do lol.trying to stay in the house witn this virus stuff and also trying to convince myself its better sorry.


It was like one really big run on sentence and kind of hard to read and fallow for me. So do you like the 5050 or not is my question.


----------



## Xavier3

covsound1 said:


> i know had nothing to do lol.trying to stay in the house witn this virus stuff and also trying to convince myself its better sorry.


You seem like a very nice and genuine person.

I found that when doing long posts, splitting them into paragraphs and using properly placed commas and periods goes a long way into giving clarity to the reader.

I think you have a lot of good info there. If you do the above, more can benefit from your experience. Not everyone is Shakespeare, so just do your best. Just a suggestion, so you're not obligated in any way.


----------



## reechings

Has anyone ordered from here? Do you think this is worth trying out? Thanks

https://syfabrics.com/products/plush-triple-velvet1

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## alangsk

reechings said:


> Has anyone ordered from here? Do you think this is worth trying out? Thanks
> 
> https://syfabrics.com/products/plush-triple-velvet1
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



I have not personally, but a number of people have in the DIY screen thread.


----------



## covsound1

Ladeback said:


> It was like one really big run on sentence and kind of hard to read and fallow for me. So do you like the 5050 or not is my question.


yes i do!


----------



## Mrkazador

reechings said:


> Has anyone ordered from here? Do you think this is worth trying out? Thanks
> 
> https://syfabrics.com/products/plush-triple-velvet1
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


You can order from them on ebay if it makes you feel any better


----------



## covsound1

Xavier3 said:


> You seem like a very nice and genuine person.
> 
> I found that when doing long posts, splitting them into paragraphs and using properly placed commas and periods goes a long way into giving clarity to the reader.
> 
> I think you have a lot of good info there. If you do the above, more can benefit from your experience. Not everyone is Shakespeare, so just do your best. Just a suggestion, so you're not obligated in any way.


thanks a lot.happy members are kind!lol


----------



## LaserLuminary

covsound1 said:


> well i just got my 5050 last night. out the box it was just bad my 5040 with all its custom settings just blew it out the box.on my 5040 which i had for 2+ years was finally dialed in within the last two days to give me some off the most impressive photo or old school jvc like gama?i thought well when the 5050 shows up i would just send it back and spend the extra money and go with the jvc nx5 as the sony sony 295 did not impress me. that boy wonder took over and i opened up 5050 know it would cost me 405 dollars plus the cost of the new projector! out the box it was a nightmare too soft,no velvet blacks,no photo or oled like pop it was brighter a plus over all not happy at all!when i switched to normal edid i lost the picture and was greeted with a dark black screen and a large round green tinted black,it wasn't a dust blob.i said to my self just lost 405 dollars and wondered it the jvc could beat what i was getting from 5040 if any projector for that matter! i plugged in advance cms setting from projecttorreview it looked better but still soft and flat like the sony 295 i saw at bestbuy.i pushed on that boy wounder in me time to play and apply what i learned in the last 3 nights with the 5040.folks let me tell you words just cant explain,dont worry about ek 4k or all the other stuff get this monster it is that good and better than the 5040 and dare i say anything in the 10000 dollar range or equal! my set up using a old school hp 2.8 screen 16.9 106 inch projector just over my seated position about 15 feet away.trip lite power 120v reg plugged into av and projector living room with large opening into foyer behind me. ruko and panny 420 4kblue ray,and sony 4kblue ray palyer. with the ruko i could get 4k hdr at 10 bit444 60 frames but found 4k hdr 8bit 420 at 59.5 to be more stable but at the cost of banning but less than what i getting with the 5040 also note this is with edit set to normal. with the panny i got 4k 12 bit444 at 24 with edit set to expanded no banning at all even with amazon wish they would add vudo app. the sony did not try but will use that for 1080p blue ray with up conversion to 4k why it just does it better than anything else even better than epson well it did on my 5040? on the 5040 gamma go up on the 5050 it goes down mid range leave it alone just the bottom and a little at the top. rgb 48,47,47 gain colors become rich bring up the color start above 55 match what you get on your tv go up close you will see what mean.you can drop the brightness down below 50 or raise to 55 like what i used for the 5040 .some may say why not give exact settings i rather point you and let you learn so you can answer your own question! now for the picture,back in the day jvc was able apply a gamma curve that gave the best blacks or a dark flim like look(i know the hate will come so be it!)with the event of hdr there new projectors dont have that same look why because with hdr it just does not work and the new nx models are more like all new projectors.i say this because its all about the controls or tools and wih that understanding(more hate)you can get to the same place as long as the machine has the tools! and folks the 5050 has it all! the sharpness with the best source source set to 5 will compete with true native 4k. my friend has a sony 295 and this 5050 looks sharper. color this 5050 puts out pure color with no noise a lot better than the 5040 you can push it up and it stays rich and full.high lamp mode is not as loud as the 4050 a plus! and with the filter dare i say canon like it feels like i am getting more than the 1100 nits tested. lazier dlp impress me with color pop in the mid range when its dialed in i think this thing has more. you will watch animated flims with amazement!with the 5040 i never could get anything with out using the color filter to hold me for the long game well with animal i used the bw mode and got a color balance that made throw my fist the air reds greens blue all balanced and in eco mode i could do this and never feel a need to use the filter! last lets talk about the blacks! on the 5040 i thought i arrived at a picture that could not get any better the blacks where velvet and the reason i picked on the old school jvc.(the force wil not be with me witth the 5050 after i dailed it in i didnt the same look or photo like look but after a while i notice the picture was better way better.how i started to notice things in the picture i never notice before like all that velvet black was not velvet after all.(what the hell is this fool talking about!) well those blacks we all adore have shades a vast amount off shades of color. yes color in the blacks not just dark old school jvc like blacks.what ever is going on with the new pixel ****(not a typo) it works not only for mid range color that is noise free but color in black! black bars for are a little darker than the 5040 with less light bleed another plus.if you are on the fence about getting this projector once dialed in you will be forever happy and also once dial in the hdr brightness control is all you will need from movie to movie.


Epson 5040 never had deep blacks. It's native contrast is close to 5,000:1. I'm glad you like your Epson 5050UB. I've seen the Epson 6050UB which is a very good projector. But it does not have deep blacks either. I'm not sure what your frame of reference is but comparing Epson's blacks to JVC blacks is not a fair comparison. Epson's blacks are comparable to a midrange TV. They are decent, but not deep enough create depth to image. And Epson's blacks are certainly not deep enough to be considered ultra black, deep black, inky black, or any other likewise adjective.


----------



## MississippiMan

reechings said:


> Has anyone ordered from here? Do you think this is worth trying out? Thanks
> 
> https://syfabrics.com/products/plush-triple-velvet1



It has been the "go to" place to get excellent Black Velvet. Recently someone did find another source that was marginally less expensive....but no word as of yet what they received when they ordered.


Others still go to JoAnns or similar outlets when the stuff is on sale (only when!) but the Sy's BV is by far the most dependable in quality and price.


----------



## MississippiMan

@reechings


With things beign so convoluted, and my fielding so many requests as of late for information on a variety of DIY and Projectors inquiries, I can't recall if I answered your recent PM, but here is the Dark Neutral Grey for you to consider on your Room surfaces. Great as a better looking substitute for Black on a Ceiling...and just as effective. At a half shade it works well for Walls, and for a unified cosmetic look, the Dark Grey in a Eggshell Oil Based Enamel applied to the Wood trim (Baseboards, Window Trim and Doors)


Or painting Walls a "deep Flat saturated Red" and matching it up with the Dark Grey Ceiling and Trim creates a really classy look that also suppresses reflections.


Only when your Screen's edges encroach upon a Wall or Ceiling surface within less than 8" - 6" does Black Velvet need to take over...and if the rest of the surface is painted Dark Grey or Dark Red you only need one width of the Black Velvet.


----------



## MississippiMan

matt21484 said:


> Anybody have experience with this particular ceiling mount? I've been using this for approx 5 years with an Epson 2030, which is orders of magnitude smaller than the 5050 I just ordered.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067OOHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1





noob00224 said:


> 5050 is 24.7lbs and that mount is rated for 30.
> 
> I would spend a little for a sturdier mount. Been talked about here and other UB series threads.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...t-ceiling-mount-did-you-use-epson-5040-a.html





What noob00224 said, explicitly.


The mount referenced is a poor choice, and barely usable if and only when the Epson 5050 is hanging straight.


The Peerless PRG-UNV is on a world s better (...though not quite up to Chief standards...), insanely more adjustable, and it only costs about $45.00 or so more (50 lb rating and an extremely lower profile)


----------



## covsound1

LaserLuminary said:


> Epson 5040 never had deep blacks. It's native contrast is close to 5,000:1. I'm glad you like your Epson 5050UB. I've seen the Epson 6050UB which is a very good projector. But it does not have deep blacks either. I'm not sure what your frame of reference is but comparing Epson's blacks to JVC blacks is not a fair comparison. Epson's blacks are comparable to a midrange TV. They are decent, but not deep enough create depth to image. And Epson's blacks are certainly not deep enough to be considered ultra black, deep black, inky black, or any other likewise adjective.


I agree with you when talking about old school jvc projectors.The 3 new projectors and the dlp play on a common ground due to hdr.Yes the 5 7 and 9 are better, hardware and software wise.IF put into groups the and looking at black bars (1 sony 695,jvc nx7.2 jvc nx5 epson 6050/5050) again looking at black bars. I dont agree with not being deep enough to create depth to image.When dialed in i get all the depth 3d like image i could ever want.The native contrast can be miss leading as you can add a iris or lamp dim and 3x that number(a good selling spec!).What change my way of thinking was some of the better high end dlp projectors.How do they do what they do? I have come to the conclusion its all in the gamma settings of the light that you see on the screen. ( i often turn off iris as i feel its not needed much ).


----------



## groggrog

*Time for bulb replacement?*

Hi - I'm currently at 1,940 hours on my 5050UB and it's starting to look a little dim. Not sure how much time is reasonable so looking for a recommendation. Also, the replacement bulb I have is EPLPL89. Got it with my 4050 but hoping it works with the 5050. Any idea? Thanks


----------



## covsound1

My 5040 has a new bulb with only 95 hours.I was thinking i could use that bulb as a replacement for the 5050. I think the 4050 4010 5040 5050 and 6050 all use the same 250 watt bulb?


----------



## skylarlove1999

groggrog said:


> Hi - I'm currently at 1,940 hours on my 5050UB and it's starting to look a little dim. Not sure how much time is reasonable so looking for a recommendation. Also, the replacement bulb I have is EPLPL89. Got it with my 4050 but hoping it works with the 5050. Any idea? Thanks


LampID:V13H010L89 on the box EPLPL89. 

Epson has been using the same replacement lamp for several models for the last couple of generations. This is the lamp that came with my 6050.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## groggrog

skylarlove1999 said:


> LampID:V13H010L89 on the box EPLPL89.
> 
> Epson has been using the same replacement lamp for several models for the last couple of generations. This is the lamp that came with my 6050.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank You Skylarlove!


----------



## Gjlaplante

Hi everyone! Just purchased the 5050UB this week. Moving on from an Optoma UHD65. I have a couple of questions about this projector.

1) Concerning the tone mapping features. I also have the Panasonic 820 and have been using those tone mapping features to help the Optoma along. However, I understand the 5050 also has several tone mapping features, so for those in my situation which one do you use player or projector?

2) as far as the lens shift is concerned. I have been using a 12" extension to drop the Optoma down to level with 120" screen. The Optoma has about a 15 degree lens shift, but the Epson has a 100 degree shift, so do I need to continue to use the extension? I'm concerned about the added weight of this new projector, so if I can delete the extension that would help.

Thanks for any advise.


----------



## gunlife

Gjlaplante said:


> Hi everyone! Just purchased the 5050UB this week. Moving on from an Optoma UHD65. I have a couple of questions about this projector.
> 
> 1) Concerning the tone mapping features. I also have the Panasonic 820 and have been using those tone mapping features to help the Optoma along. However, I understand the 5050 also has several tone mapping features, so for those in my situation which one do you use player or projector?
> 
> 2) as far as the lens shift is concerned. I have been using a 12" extension to drop the Optoma down to level with 120" screen. The Optoma has about a 15 degree lens shift, but the Epson has a 100 degree shift, so do I need to continue to use the extension? I'm concerned about the added weight of this new projector, so if I can delete the extension that would help.
> 
> Thanks for any advise.


Congrats! I find the panasonic does a much better job of tone mapping. The Epson out of the box raises the black floor quite a bit. The panasonic gives the best black floor you can get while controlling highlights well.

Just one mans opinion!


----------



## MississippiMan

Quote:
Originally Posted by *LaserLuminary*  
_Epson 5040 never had deep blacks. It's native contrast is close to 5,000:1. I'm glad you like your Epson 5050UB. I've seen the Epson 6050UB which is a very good projector. But it does not have deep blacks either. I'm not sure what your frame of reference is but comparing Epson's blacks to JVC blacks is not a fair comparison. Epson's blacks are comparable to a midrange TV. They are decent, but not deep enough create depth to image. And Epson's blacks are certainly not deep enough to be considered ultra black, deep black, inky black, or any other likewise adjective._




covsound1 said:


> I agree with you when talking about old school jvc projectors.The 3 new projectors and the dlp play on a common ground due to hdr.Yes the 5 7 and 9 are better, hardware and software wise.IF put into groups the and looking at black bars (1 sony 695,jvc nx7.2 jvc nx5 epson 6050/5050) again looking at black bars. I dont agree with not being deep enough to create depth to image.When dialed in i get all the depth 3d like image i could ever want.The native contrast can be miss leading as you can add a iris or lamp dim and 3x that number(a good selling spec!).What change my way of thinking was some of the better high end dlp projectors.How do they do what they do? I have come to the conclusion its all in the gamma settings of the light that you see on the screen. ( i often turn off iris as i feel its not needed much ).


Guys....

If either or both of you want to experience JVC x990r black levels (x990r = 160,000:1 Native CR ) with a Epson 5040/5050,you can get imperceptibly close to those Blacks by considering a ultra high contrast DIY Screen coating such as Silver Fire v2.5 N/C. Even more so if the BF-RBGY Colorant is added...which it can be with the Epson's mighty lumen output.

Hey...even when dealing with the latest JVC models (...just hung a NX7 for a 138" diag.2.39:1 "painted Wall") I still have to deal with a paltry 80K:1. But I can say without being held to task that the difference with/without the help of the SF 2.5 is much more than substantial....compared with a Matte White, even with a JVC's HTG starting point of 80K:1 Native. (1st 3 examples below)


































The 5040 / 5050 units I have experience with have both measured up to expectations when they were shooting onto the right surface...one that enhances Blacks with no crushing of shadow detail....and that they can do such at 2500 lumen output is just all the more Icing on the Image cake. Below are several examples of the venerable 5040 splashing a 146" diagonal image onto a SF v2.5 Painted Wall. But keep in mind.....such a coating can resurface virtually any smooth material...be it a Mfg Matte White Screen or anything else similar. Fixed or Retractable.









































The moral here being...."Getting a Silk Purse from a Sow's Ear is possible if you tan the hide just right.". There is always a way to improve _*ANY*_ projected image if the projector itself meets minimal standards of performance and it's paired with an ideally suited Screen surface..


I really like the 50-series Epsons for what I know they can provide for both dedicated Theater applications as well as Ambient Light circumstances. I hate to see anyone think they simply had to "make do" with what they got when I KNOW they can get more than they ever though possible.




@*Gjlaplante* 


You go right ahead and replace that 12" Drop with a 4" Nipple (...or whatever type extension your mount uses...) You have Lens Shift to spare!


----------



## covsound1

Thank you above. was looking into going wide screen and didnt want to give up on the hp 2.8 screen.But after the pictures you posted i could give it shot.And you explained so much better then what i was trying to do


----------



## tonygeno

*Purpose of LAN Port*

I own a 5050UB and am trying to figure out the purpose of the LAN port. I have successfully connected the projector to my network but I can't understand what this offers me. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## ivanhoek

tonygeno said:


> I own a 5050UB and am trying to figure out the purpose of the LAN port. I have successfully connected the projector to my network but I can't understand what this offers me. Any help would be appreciated.



You can control the projector over the network. There’s an app as well as you can use the browser on any PC or mobile. You can also use custom control software like crestron.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## tonygeno

Thanks. I see you can do lens shift, focus, etc., so maybe worthwhile.


----------



## mon2479

I was wondering if anyone has tried the BlueAVS fiber optic HDMI cable, I've seen video reviews on youtube and it looks like a good option. I'm just trying to pick a cable for my RXA 3050/5050UB. I'm now in the painting phase(rosco tv black plaint), once I'm done I'll post pictures, with this virus and jobs up in the air, hopefully I can finish soon. 
Everyone take care


----------



## MississippiMan

mon2479 said:


> I was wondering if anyone has tried the BlueAVS fiber optic HDMI cable, I've seen video reviews on youtube and it looks like a good option. I'm just trying to pick a cable for my RXA 3050/5050UB. I'm now in the painting phase(rosco tv black plaint), once I'm done I'll post pictures, with this virus and jobs up in the air, hopefully I can finish soon.
> Everyone take care



Just a bit of scrutiny and using Amazon Prime as a source can get you a perfectly acceptable FO HDMI cable at very reasonable pricing. 

*https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hdmi+fiber+optic+cable+30+feet&crid=30SBFTQT47MXV 
*


A year ago....no, but these days the demand has brought affordability and choice to the forefront.


Don't be bullied or persuaded (hyped) into paying too much!


----------



## kensingtonwick

I’m considering the 6050 over the 5050 due to a comparison video and the blacks appear much deeper on the 6050 due to a 200000 contrast advantage. On that note it is pretty expensive. Are there any other less expensive projectors out there that can provide deep blacks along with 2500 to 3000 lumen output along with 4K and HDR? Or if I were to get a tk850 would the right black screen paint help with increasing blacks on it? Are there black screen paints out there with high gain as so not to decrease overall picture brightness yet increase black levels? Sorry for all the questions. I am very new to projectors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mrkazador

mon2479 said:


> I was wondering if anyone has tried the BlueAVS fiber optic HDMI cable, I've seen video reviews on youtube and it looks like a good option. I'm just trying to pick a cable for my RXA 3050/5050UB. I'm now in the painting phase(rosco tv black plaint), once I'm done I'll post pictures, with this virus and jobs up in the air, hopefully I can finish soon.
> Everyone take care


I use this fiber cable and havent had any problems connected to a PC.


----------



## biglen

LaserLuminary said:


> Epson 5040 never had deep blacks. It's native contrast is close to 5,000:1. I'm glad you like your Epson 5050UB. I've seen the Epson 6050UB which is a very good projector. But it does not have deep blacks either. I'm not sure what your frame of reference is but comparing Epson's blacks to JVC blacks is not a fair comparison. Epson's blacks are comparable to a midrange TV. They are decent, but not deep enough create depth to image. And Epson's blacks are certainly not deep enough to be considered ultra black, deep black, inky black, or any other likewise adjective.


My blacks seem very deep on my 5050, unless my eyes are bad.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> Has anyone ordered from here? Do you think this is worth trying out? Thanks
> 
> https://syfabrics.com/products/plush-triple-velvet1
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Here's another option, that I used in my movie room. Check out the reviews. I'm very happy with it. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E...cm_sw_r_sms_apip_zEJfSPa16CeW3

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## crossrh

While chasing rattles in my theater I found a frequency that caused the lens cover to vibrate. This of course meant the whole projector (6050) was vibrating. This of course is not good.
The next time I watched a movie I saw flickering, mostly in bright images. Rats. I just had Jeff Meier from AccuCal calibrate the PJ, and now this. I tried different sources, and no sources, and the slight flickering showed up no matter what. I also re-seated the bulb.

On a whim, I changed the power mode from Eco to Med (Jeff was able to calibrate HDR and SDR in Eco mode, so the mode never changed when switching from SDR to HDR), and that fixed it. I went back to Eco mode, and, so far, it stayed fixed. Tragedy narrowly averted.

I'll update if it happens again.

Rick


----------



## kensingtonwick

biglen said:


> My blacks seem very deep on my 5050, unless my eyes are bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




What kind of screen and gain do you have?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

kensingtonwick said:


> What kind of screen and gain do you have?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's a painted screen I did myself, using Black Flame Interstellar screen paint. I'm not sure what the gain is in the paint though. @MississippiMan can probably answer that. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## kensingtonwick

biglen said:


> It's a painted screen I did myself, using Black Flame Interstellar screen paint. I'm not sure what the gain is in the paint though. @MississippiMan can probably answer that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




Wow! Looks great! Do the lumens take a hit? What screen size are you at and how far away is the projector? How is daytime ambient light and nighttime ambient light with this projector and paint combination?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

kensingtonwick said:


> Wow! Looks great! Do the lumens take a hit? What screen size are you at and how far away is the projector? How is daytime ambient light and nighttime ambient light with this projector and paint combination?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, they don't take a hit. My whole wall is the painted screen, and the projector is 13'3" from the wall. I'd say I have about a 135" scope image, and about 120" 16:9, if I had to guess. The movie room is in the basement, with no windows, so I never get natural light. I've watched movies with about 5% lighting in the movie room, and the picture is still beautiful. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## kensingtonwick

biglen said:


> No, they don't take a hit. My whole wall is the painted screen, and the projector is 13'3" from the wall. I'd say I have about a 135" scope image, and about 120" 16:9, if I had to guess. The movie room is in the basement, with no windows, so I never get natural light. I've watched movies with about 5% lighting in the movie room, and the picture is still beautiful.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




Still looks very bright at 135”. How far away do you sit? Can you notice the 1080p doubled resolution at your sitting distance? Or does the picture appear sharp and crisp? Will I be able to plug in an external and play 4K HDR like my LG oled?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

kensingtonwick said:


> Still looks very bright at 135”. How far away do you sit? Can you notice the 1080p doubled resolution at your sitting distance? Or does the picture appear sharp and crisp? Will I be able to plug in an external and play 4K HDR like my LG oled?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm probably about 12' away, and the picture is crystal clear, with 1080p and 4k content. I run all my equipment into a Home Theater receiver, then run the receiver to the Epson. Here are some 4k screenshots.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## kensingtonwick

biglen said:


> I'm probably about 12' away, and the picture is crystal clear, with 1080p and 4k content. I run all my equipment into a Home Theater receiver, then run the receiver to the Epson. Here are some 4k screenshots.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




It’s the die antwoord broad lol. Picture looks stunning! So just to confirm, your screen paint is black?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

kensingtonwick said:


> It’s the die antwoord broad lol. Picture looks stunning! So just to confirm, your screen paint is black?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, it's not black. It's more of a gray color. Here's my thread on my screen project. I have pics of the screen color posted there. 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## kensingtonwick

biglen said:


> No, it's not black. It's more of a gray color. Here's my thread on my screen project. I have pics of the screen color posted there.
> 
> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




Okay. Thank you for sharing. I appreciate it. And thank you for all the information as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

biglen said:


> Here's another option, that I used in my movie room. Check out the reviews. I'm very happy with it.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E...cm_sw_r_sms_apip_zEJfSPa16CeW3


 Link is bogus...or at least I can't connect.




kensingtonwick said:


> Still looks very bright at 135”. How far away do you sit? Can you notice the 1080p doubled resolution at your sitting distance? Or does the picture appear sharp and crisp? Will I be able to plug in an external and play 4K HDR like my LG oled?



The Gain on the BF Interstellar is approx 1.2...it contaons no Black Flame Colorant to darken the depth of pearlescent Grey, therefor has the highest Gain of the BF mixes. 

The 5050 has come with all 4K connect-ability issues resolved over the 5040.....send it whatever 4K HDR (30-60 hz) content your system or component can output. Just be sure your using a fully 4K certified HDMI connection.


----------



## Northern_Lights

MississippiMan said:


> Guys....
> 
> If either or both of you want to experience JVC x990r black levels (x990r = 160,000:1 Native CR ) with a Epson 5040/5050,you can get imperceptibly close to those Blacks by considering a ultra high contrast DIY Screen coating such as Silver Fire v2.5 N/C. Even more so if the BF-RBGY Colorant is added...which it can be with the Epson's mighty lumen output.



I'm extremely intrigued, as I'm finding the black floor with my newly acquired 5050 isn't significantly better than what I had with my relatively ancient Panasonic PT-AE3000U. Where do i find this screen coating and how do I get more info? Thanks MississippiMan, not the first time you've helped me here.


----------



## biglen

MississippiMan said:


> Link is bogus...or at least I can't connect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Gain on the BF Interstellar is approx 1.2...it contaons no Black Flame Colorant to darken the depth of pearlescent Grey, therefor has the highest Gain of the BF mixes.
> 
> The 5050 has come with all 4K connect-ability issues resolved over the 5040.....send it whatever 4K HDR (30-60 hz) content your system or component can output. Just be sure your using a fully 4K certified HDMI connection.


Here's the link again. It should work now. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EEJSG90/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_L51DEbZWVQBDM

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Gjlaplante

So what is everyone using for 4k HDR using to watch Disk based movies, Digital Cinema or Bright Cinema?


----------



## CanadaMark

Hi Folks - I have a a few questions now that I have my Nvidia Shield Pro and everything else set up roughly how I want it (finally) - there does not seem to be a way to disable 4K up-scaling, and therefore all my 4K enhancement options on the 6050UB are greyed out, presumably because it thinks every signal it's getting is native 4K from the Shield. It will still let me choose "image preset mode", "detail enhancement", and "super resolution" but the "4K enhancement" is greyed out. I guess I have 3 questions:

1) Has anyone been able to test if the Shield Pro's AI 4K upscaling is better than Epson's 4K enhancement? I would assume a $5K projector does a better job at up-scaling than the Shield, but I could be wrong there as the Shield has a ton of graphics-specific processing power.

2) Is there any way to defeat the up-scaling on the Shield? My research so far suggests not, and the only menu options available do not include "off".

3) I notice quite a lot of faint grinding noises coming from the projector (sounds like a traditional spinning hard drive working), I assume this is the auto iris, but it sounds like it's working way too hard even with an image/scene that does not change brightness which has me suspicious. Am I right that this it the iris?

TIA


----------



## fredworld

Gjlaplante said:


> So what is everyone using for 4k HDR using to watch Disk based movies, Digital Cinema or Bright Cinema?



I used Digital Cinema to adjust my settings using the *Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark* . I hope this helps.


----------



## jaredmwright

fredworld said:


> I used Digital Cinema to adjust my settings using the *Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark* . I hope this helps.


Same here and very pleased with the result.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## IslaTurbine

Anyone here have issues with using volume control over CEC to a Yamaha receiver? Specifically I have a Yamaha 7850 (Costco model) and a 6050ub. I can get my Tivo remote to communicate with the projector but the Yamaha receiver is unresponsive to volume inputs from both the Epson and Tivo remote controls. HDMI Link appears to be active on both ends.

This fiber HDMI cable (which was previously recommended on this thread a number of times) is what connects the 6050 to the Yamaha receiver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PXYHLKH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## AVTimme

Gjlaplante said:


> So what is everyone using for 4k HDR using to watch Disk based movies, Digital Cinema or Bright Cinema?


Natural is better then bright cinema for me. It’s just as bright but with better colors.


I use Natural or Digital cinema. Digital cinema for movies with lots of color (like guardians of the galaxy II) and Natural for movies with less color pop like Deadpool

The increased brightness from Natural is nice and It handles colors really well. They say its about 85% of P3 with natural


----------



## audiovideochallenged

Hey biglen,

Those are stunning images! Would you mind posting your settings?


----------



## IslaTurbine

IslaTurbine said:


> Anyone here have issues with using volume control over CEC to a Yamaha receiver? Specifically I have a Yamaha 7850 (Costco model) and a 6050ub. I can get my Tivo remote to communicate with the projector but the Yamaha receiver is unresponsive to volume inputs from both the Epson and Tivo remote controls. HDMI Link appears to be active on both ends.
> 
> This fiber HDMI cable (which was previously recommended on this thread a number of times) is what connects the 6050 to the Yamaha receiver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PXYHLKH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Just to close this out, I found the fix. An HDMI Control Link setup has to be performed for some/all CEC connections: https://manual.yamaha.com/av/18/rxv685/en-US/320797195.html


----------



## njbrodeur87

For all you guys with first hand experience, as someone who owns an HD Fury with a 5040, what benefits will i get from the 5050ub in regards to HDR and 4K gaming on xbox x and ps4 pro etc? IT cost me like 1000$ to upgrade so trying to see if there is enough benefit


----------



## acosmichippo

njbrodeur87 said:


> For all you guys with first hand experience, as someone who owns an HD Fury with a 5040, what benefits will i get from the 5050ub in regards to HDR and 4K gaming on xbox x and ps4 pro etc? IT cost me like 1000$ to upgrade so trying to see if there is enough benefit


my understanding is the 5040 can only do 4k @ 30fps whereas the 5050 can do 4k @ 60fps. This is due to the higher throughput HDMI ports.


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

acosmichippo said:


> my understanding is the 5040 can only do 4k @ 30fps whereas the 5050 can do 4k @ 60fps. This is due to the higher throughput HDMI ports.


this is correct. 

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## njbrodeur87

acosmichippo said:


> my understanding is the 5040 can only do 4k @ 30fps whereas the 5050 can do 4k @ 60fps. This is due to the higher throughput HDMI ports.


With HDLinker on the 5040, i believe xbox one x or ps4 pro do both do 4K60FPS with HDR but at 8bit instead of native 10bit.

Even so, is their a good jump in quailty on the 5050 using 4k with native HDR as opposed to using the HD Linker with 5040?


----------



## jebusfreek666

Can anyone tell me if the 5050ub hdmi ports support ARC or preferably eARC?


----------



## biglen

jebusfreek666 said:


> Can anyone tell me if the 5050ub hdmi ports support ARC or preferably eARC?


It does not support any type of ARC. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

audiovideochallenged said:


> Hey biglen,
> 
> 
> 
> Those are stunning images! Would you mind posting your settings?


Someone else's settings won't work for you. There are so many different factors such as screen type, screen gain, controlled lighting........

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Someone else's settings won't work for you. There are so many different factors such as screen type, screen gain, controlled lighting........
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


100% correct, in fact they would probably get a better calibration by using a simple calibration disc themselves at the cost of $30.


----------



## acosmichippo

been setting mine up over the last few days and have noticed this a couple times. i think both times it occurred while switching frame rates and HDR when exiting videos on my apple TV. basically the left half of the screen looks normal, but the right half is pixelated, magenta, and green.

also i did buy mine “renewed” from amazon... wondering if i should have it replaced or if this may be a known issue.

Thanks for any input!

https://imgur.com/5qJ0EXQ


----------



## jaredmwright

acosmichippo said:


> been setting mine up over the last few days and have noticed this a couple times. i think both times it occurred while switching frame rates and HDR when exiting videos on my apple TV. basically the left half of the screen looks normal, but the right half is pixelated, magenta, and green.
> 
> 
> 
> also i did buy mine “renewed” from amazon... wondering if i should have it replaced or if this may be a known issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for any input!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imgur.com/5qJ0EXQ.gif


I had the same issue, ended up being my HDMI cable which was long, 35'. I swapped it out and haven't had any issues.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## acosmichippo

ok thanks. mine are 25 ft. tried a couple monoprice certified premium cables already but unfortunately i can’t shorten them much. got one other bluerigger i can try...

what cable would you guys recommend? surely fiber optic isn’t necessary for 25 feet...


----------



## skylarlove1999

acosmichippo said:


> ok thanks. mine are 25 ft. tried a couple monoprice certified premium cables already but unfortunately i can’t shorten them much. got one other bluerigger i can try...
> 
> 
> 
> what cable would you guys recommend? surely fiber optic isn’t necessary for 25 feet...


You can keep trying other cables and maybe they will work. Many people have had success with Blue Jeans cables and the 5050. Personally I would just get the RUIPRO fiber optic cable from Amazon and call it a day. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## bennyjammin

*Getting 4k 60hz to 6050ub*

For those of you with a receiver/processor that doesn’t support 18gbps hdmi, and need to send 4k 60hz to the Epson, what is the most affordable and reliable hdmi splitter you would recommend? I need something for a PS4 since my Lyngdorf MP-50 is not compatible with 18Gbps HDMI. I’ve heard of HD Fury but they have so many models I don’t know where to start. Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## DunMunro

bennyjammin said:


> For those of you with a receiver/processor that doesn’t support 18gbps hdmi, and need to send 4k 60hz to the Epson, what is the most affordable and reliable hdmi splitter you would recommend? I need something for a PS4 since my Lyngdorf MP-50 is not compatible with 18Gbps HDMI. I’ve heard of HD Fury but they have so many models I don’t know where to start. Thanks in advance for any advice.



This has worked well for me:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZNKF7C8


----------



## ivanhoek

bennyjammin said:


> For those of you with a receiver/processor that doesn’t support 18gbps hdmi, and need to send 4k 60hz to the Epson, what is the most affordable and reliable hdmi splitter you would recommend? I need something for a PS4 since my Lyngdorf MP-50 is not compatible with 18Gbps HDMI. I’ve heard of HD Fury but they have so many models I don’t know where to start. Thanks in advance for any advice.



This one was perfect for me.. It has a dedicated audio out HDMI so I get full high res audio, plus the maximum benefit from the video side. 

It’s nice to get both edid... very reliable too. 


XOLORspace 23421 HDMI 2.0 4X2 HDMI Matrix switcher Select Any one of Four HDR HDMI Input to one HDR HDMI Output and one HDMI Output for Audio only Supports 4k 60hz 4:4:4 8 bit HDR w/ARC SPDIF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25VVFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ffbFEbJPT3YDZ


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

acosmichippo said:


> ok thanks. mine are 25 ft. tried a couple monoprice certified premium cables already but unfortunately i can’t shorten them much. got one other bluerigger i can try...
> 
> 
> 
> what cable would you guys recommend? surely fiber optic isn’t necessary for 25 feet...


Get a Blue Jeans cable. They are priced reasonably, and work flawlessly with the 5050. Trust me, you don't need to spend $100 for a cable. I've tried a bunch of different cables that were anywhere from $40, all the way up to $120. I spent like $60 on a 35ft Blue Jeans cable, and it ended up being the best one I tried. Get the Series 3 Active. 

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## bennyjammin

DunMunro said:


> This has worked well for me:
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZNKF7C8





ivanhoek said:


> This one was perfect for me.. It has a dedicated audio out HDMI so I get full high res audio, plus the maximum benefit from the video side.
> 
> It’s nice to get both edid... very reliable too.
> 
> 
> XOLORspace 23421 HDMI 2.0 4X2 HDMI Matrix switcher Select Any one of Four HDR HDMI Input to one HDR HDMI Output and one HDMI Output for Audio only Supports 4k 60hz 4:4:4 8 bit HDR w/ARC SPDIF https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25VVFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ffbFEbJPT3YDZ
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Thanks! What is benefit of edid?


----------



## ivanhoek

bennyjammin said:


> Thanks! What is benefit of edid?



The benefit is I can get both the highest video formats my projector supports and the highest audio formats my receiver supports.

It works like when I used to have a Lumagen. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

acosmichippo said:


> ok thanks. mine are 25 ft. tried a couple monoprice certified premium cables already but unfortunately i can’t shorten them much. got one other bluerigger i can try...
> 
> what cable would you guys recommend? surely fiber optic isn’t necessary for 25 feet...


Optical HDMI is best even at 25ft, I'm willing to bet that your issue is HDMI related and frankly if you get yours from Amazon if it doesn't cure it you can return it not harm done.


----------



## biglen

ckronengold said:


> Ok. Glad I'm not alone. Maybe I'll just give up on trying to solve this riddle.[/quote @ckronengold Did you ever figure this out? I'm still having power off issues with my Harmony.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

njbrodeur87 said:


> For all you guys with first hand experience, as someone who owns an HD Fury with a 5040, what benefits will i get from the 5050ub in regards to HDR and 4K gaming on xbox x and ps4 pro etc? IT cost me like 1000$ to upgrade so trying to see if there is enough benefit


i have the 5040 and the hdfury. With the 5050 you do no need the hdfury. edit set to extended and range set (15 to 235) you can pretty much play all formats even-though the projector breaks it back down to 4.2.0 anyway.(the raw signal) 24?hz and 59?hz sdr.hdr and hlg hdr 8 10 and 12 bit. great for streaming and game console.Also you can stay in reference mode all day as picture not as dark as the 5040. With the 5040 the best was 422 at 10bit at 30hz none hdr and 24hz with. 420 8bit hdr with lots of banning streaming.


----------



## noob00224

covsound1 said:


> i have the 5040 and the hdfury. With the 5050 you do no need the hdfury. edit set to extended and range set (15 to 235) you can pretty much play all formats even-though the projector breaks it back down to 4.2.0 anyway.(the raw signal) 24?hz and 59?hz sdr.hdr and hlg hdr 8 10 and 12 bit. great for streaming and game console.Also you can stay in reference mode all day as picture not as dark as the 5040. With the 5040 the best was 422 at 10bit at 30hz none hdr and 24hz with. 420 8bit hdr with lots of banning streaming.


What's banning streaming?


----------



## covsound1

noob00224 said:


> What's banning streaming?


Sorry just took it for granted.When you stream from device like a ruko 4k and your signal is only 4.2.0. 8 bit and you get a picture of the sky that goes from light light blue to dark blue and you see steps in the color.(less information in the signal compared to 4.4.4 12 bit more information in the signal). The 5050 core processor is a 10bit chip not as good as some high end chips found in sony..... but good enough to get the job done. TYPO banning banding.


----------



## kincade

Good afternoon everyone! I'm taking advantage of my at home time right now, and working on setting up my 6050ub this weekend for the initial hookup.


I'm wondering if there is an initial recommended settings thread (I don't see it here), or if it's just best to follow the manual? This is my first projector and I have a lot to learn, but hoping to take some time this weekend and at least get it working so I can start viewing next week!



Thanks in advance,


----------



## noob00224

covsound1 said:


> Sorry just took it for granted.When you stream from device like a ruko 4k and your signal is only 4.2.0. 8 bit and you get a picture of the sky that goes from light light blue to dark blue and you see steps in the color.(less information in the signal compared to 4.4.4 12 bit more information in the signal). The 5050 core processor is a 10bit chip not as good as some high end chips found in sony..... but good enough to get the job done.


You mean banding?

Does it happen every time with smooth colors/sky's when in 8 bit?


----------



## covsound1

noob00224 said:


> You mean banding?
> 
> Does it happen every time with smooth colors/sky's when in 8 bit?


With all colors that go from light to dark.When streaming compression in the signal is greater with less bits more information applied to moving parts of the picture and less to static parts like the sky. With a blue ray player you get all the signal no compression less artifacts like banding and others. No not all the time but when your contend goes over the 8bit threshold.


----------



## ckronengold

biglen said:


> ckronengold said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok. Glad I'm not alone. Maybe I'll just give up on trying to solve this riddle.[/quote @ckronengold Did you ever figure this out? I'm still having power off issues with my Harmony.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> @biglen - I figured it out for myself, but not anything that would help someone just using the harmony.
> 
> I'm using Harmony with Google Assistant and a Hubitat home automation controller. I create a "virtual switch" on Hubitat that Google can toggle on and off. Then I used that virtual switch to run the Power Off routine. Then I followed it with an additional Power Off.
> 
> So my full Hubitat routine looks like this:
> 
> Select Actions for "Theater Off"
> 
> Turn On: Basement Stairs Lights (turns on stair lights for leaving the basement)
> Delay 0:00:01
> Turn Off: Theater Harmony Hub-PowerOff (this is the regular power off routine on the harmony)
> Delay 0:00:03
> Turn Off: Projector UpDown (raises the projector back into the ceiling)
> Delay 0:00:03
> Turn Off: Theater Harmony Hub-PowerOff (SECOND POWER OFF ROUTINE)
> Turn Off: Basement Lights - Back --> delayed: 0:00:30 (turn off basement lights in 30 seconds)
> Turn Off: Basement Lights - Front --> delayed: 0:01:00 (turn off other basement lights in a minute)
> Turn Off: Screen LEDs (turn off the LEDs behind the screen)
Click to expand...


----------



## covsound1

Hello hope everyone is doing well and prey for lost ones.last night i decided to play some 1080p blue rays as i want to down size my rack. A panny 420 and older 900 also sony x700. Thinking i could just pick the best(there can only be one!) but as it turns out it might be 2.the sony with up conversion to 4k looked terrible but with it turned off looked better more natural with deeper blacks than the up conversion on the panny 420. also as a plus fi on norm does not look too soap opera like.(i do not like frame interpolation of any kind).to me this really competes with some of my best 4k blue rays and shows how good the up conversion in the 5050. the 900 panny should out play the sony on paper at 1080p i only trust my eyes not the specs i will test later. so in the end i will put all my dvds in box and make room for my new love blue rays!


----------



## Musty Hustla

Just to confirm, there is no auto focus feature on the 5050?


----------



## Strahan

Hello all. I just bought a 5050UB last week. It's great having a projector again; I had a Sanyo PLV-Z4 back in the late 2000s. So far I love it.

I do have two things that are annoying; the PJ seems to want to switch inputs as soon as a device comes on. I'm on HDMI1 with my HTPC and I hit the power for my Bluray player and bam, now the PJ goes to HDMI2 automatically. Irritating as I wasn't ready to switch yet. Is there a way to shut that off?

Second, does anyone else have a problem with the projector not properly remembering lens settings? I have a 127" scope screen, using lens memory to do CIH. I have memory 1 for 2.35:1 and memory 2 for 1.78:1. I have the 1.78:1 perfectly fit on the screen then save it. The next day I'm watching a scope movie and I switch back to HTPC so I hit memory 2 and it gets almost perfect, except it's about an inch too low. Has anyone else seen behavior like that? Is there a fix?

Thanks!


----------



## jaredmwright

Strahan said:


> Hello all. I just bought a 5050UB last week. It's great having a projector again; I had a Sanyo PLV-Z4 back in the late 2000s. So far I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> I do have two things that are annoying; the PJ seems to want to switch inputs as soon as a device comes on. I'm on HDMI1 with my HTPC and I hit the power for my Bluray player and bam, now the PJ goes to HDMI2 automatically. Irritating as I wasn't ready to switch yet. Is there a way to shut that off?
> 
> 
> 
> Second, does anyone else have a problem with the projector not properly remembering lens settings? I have a 127" scope screen, using lens memory to do CIH. I have memory 1 for 2.35:1 and memory 2 for 1.78:1. I have the 1.78:1 perfectly fit on the screen then save it. The next day I'm watching a scope movie and I switch back to HTPC so I hit memory 2 and it gets almost perfect, except it's about an inch too low. Has anyone else seen behavior like that? Is there a fix?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Turn off HDMI CEC control that should fix the inputs/power issue

Lens memory isn't perfect on the Epson, it needs a little extra effort. Think about how far off it is when going between lens settings and compensate so that it aligns properly when using the lens setting to go back and forth, not what you see while setting the lens position. For example, move it more to the right than necessary if you notice it isn't quite fitting properly so that it does, there is a little wiggle room you will have to play with going back and forth until you get it.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Musty Hustla said:


> Just to confirm, there is no auto focus feature on the 5050?


Correct, no auto focus. You have to manually focus it, but once you do, you shouldn't have to touch it again, unless the distance between your 5050 and screen change. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

ckronengold said:


> biglen said:
> 
> 
> 
> @biglen - I figured it out for myself, but not anything that would help someone just using the harmony.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using Harmony with Google Assistant and a Hubitat home automation controller. I create a "virtual switch" on Hubitat that Google can toggle on and off. Then I used that virtual switch to run the Power Off routine. Then I followed it with an additional Power Off.
> 
> 
> 
> So my full Hubitat routine looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Select Actions for "Theater Off"
> 
> 
> 
> Turn On: Basement Stairs Lights (turns on stair lights for leaving the basement)
> 
> Delay 0:00:01
> 
> Turn Off: Theater Harmony Hub-PowerOff (this is the regular power off routine on the harmony)
> 
> Delay 0:00:03
> 
> Turn Off: Projector UpDown (raises the projector back into the ceiling)
> 
> Delay 0:00:03
> 
> Turn Off: Theater Harmony Hub-PowerOff (SECOND POWER OFF ROUTINE)
> 
> Turn Off: Basement Lights - Back --> delayed: 0:00:30 (turn off basement lights in 30 seconds)
> 
> Turn Off: Basement Lights - Front --> delayed: 0:01:00 (turn off other basement lights in a minute)
> 
> Turn Off: Screen LEDs (turn off the LEDs behind the screen)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I have it narrowed down to it only happening when I use my PS4. For some reason, if I power off the PS4, which I have to do with the PS4 controller, since my Harmony won't control it, then I hit the power off all, the 5050 struggles to power off. If I hit the power off all with the PS4 still on, then the 5050 powers off immediately. I can't figure out why it would be different when the PS4 is off or on.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## Luminated67

Watched the latest Terminator movie today. Decent picture quality and sound.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8kg8brmi3gcpqb8/Photo 29-03-2020, 11 48 43 (1).jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s3o1w5valv7qoht/Photo 29-03-2020, 12 04 48 (1).jpg?dl=0


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> ckronengold said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I have it narrowed down to it only happening when I use my PS4. For some reason, if I power off the PS4, which I have to do with the PS4 controller, since my Harmony won't control it, then I hit the power off all, the 5050 struggles to power off. If I hit the power off all with the PS4 still on, then the 5050 powers off immediately. I can't figure out why it would be different when the PS4 is off or on.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Same for Nvidia Shield so I leave it on
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## biglen

jaredmwright said:


> biglen said:
> 
> 
> 
> Same for Nvidia Shield so I leave it on
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder why the Epson struggles with devices that are turned off first? The "no signal" must be throwing it off for some reason.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> jaredmwright said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder why the Epson struggles with devices that are turned off first? The "no signal" must be throwing it off for some reason.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I think it has something to do with the Bluetooth keyboard that is used for those devices versus IR to control Nvidia shield and Playstation 4
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


----------



## Jmouse007

I desperately need a new pj and had to decide between the JVC NX 5/7 or the 6050UB. 

I ended up buying the Epson 6050UB (TW9400) instead of a JVC NX5/7 because it is brighter, cheaper lamp & fits our needs and non dedicated HT multi purpose, non "bat cave" room better than the NX series without $$$ breaking the bank  

I ordered the Epson 6050UB over a month ago, but because of the "coronavirus" delivery got pushed back to ...?  Anyway, I  finally got word from my authorized Epson dealer that it is finally in route and he will hand deliver it sometime this week. 

This is a my dilemma/problem: Because we have been ordered to "shelter in place" due to the CV, my dealer can't/won't come in and install our new 6050UB because he is in the high risk age group (as am I). That's not a big deal, I can hang it, however he was going to also "align the panels", check/align the pj's "uniformity" and do an "initial calibration" before the CV messed everything up. Anyway,  I've never done any of this before. 

Does anyone have any tips on "aligning" the red and blue panels, and on checking/correcting picture "uniformity on the Epson 6050UB/5050UB (9400/7400)? 

Most important question: I  have a 100 inch 16/9, 1.2 gain ALR STEWART Firehawk SST screen. My ceiling mounted Epson 6050UB will be a little over 12 feet throw distance from the screen. 

Does anyone  have any HDR, SDR settings/calibration advice you have found that works well that you can give me? 

Do you know where I can find any "custom settings" for the 6050UB/9400 that others have created? I know they are probably posted somewhere, but the owner thread posts are enormous and I have no idea where to find these answers.

Or any free online calibration programs/tools that would prove helpful? I can't afford a new Speers and Muncile UHD calibration disk at the moment. All I have is a rudimentary calibration program on a Disney Blu-ray disk.

If so, I would greatly appreciate it if you could share them with me because I have no idea how long we will be in "shelter in place" lock down, and since we don't have a TV, the projector is our only form of entertainment and I would like it to perform as well as possible under these trying circumstances in light of not being able to have our new Epson 6050UB professionally calibrated. 

Feel free to PM me, or post your answers. I look forward to your reply and thanks in advance for your help and guidance regarding the above. 

Everyone please take care and stay safe.


----------



## Luminated67

^The combination of Room, Screen and Projector will require a completely different set of calibrations so bottom line is using another persons settings will not be right and in most case be less accurate than you using your Disney disc.


----------



## mon2479

I just wanted to post pictures of my new home theater room that's almost complete. HVAC guy did piss me off in the beginning because the air vent was originally going to be on the screen wall, thankfully I was able to catch that in time and have him move it. The paint color is ROSCO TV BLACK, it really was like painting on tar. Now that its dry, there is a funky smell, I will probably buy some glade plug ins to mask the smell. I am doing a 7.2 system with Def Tech fronts and Polk Audio surrounds. My subs are Martin Logan wireless with my Yamaha RXA 3050, Oppo 203, and Roku 4K Ultra. I am going to use an old dark brown sectional couch for my seating on the first and second rows. All that is left is to buy the screen which I'm getting a Silver Ticket 125" 2.35:1 white from amazon, the HDMI fiber optic cable, 5050UB and professional installation. What sucks though is now my wife is on furlough, fingers crossed her position won't be axed, we lost her income, so spending $4k right now might not be the smartest thing to do. I work in a bank and we have a pretty good Visa promo with 23 months 0%apr, so that is an option. We will see.............once I'm done, I will post the finished pictures


----------



## biglen

mon2479 said:


> I just wanted to post pictures of my new home theater room that's almost complete. HVAC guy did piss me off in the beginning because the air vent was originally going to be on the screen wall, thankfully I was able to catch that in time and have him move it. The paint color is ROSCO TV BLACK, it really was like painting on tar. Now that its dry, there is a funky smell, I will probably buy some glade plug ins to mask the smell. I am doing a 7.2 system with Def Tech fronts and Polk Audio surrounds. My subs are Martin Logan wireless with my Yamaha RXA 3050, Oppo 203, and Roku 4K Ultra. I am going to use an old dark brown sectional couch for my seating on the first and second rows. All that is left is to buy the screen which I'm getting a Silver Ticket 125" 2.35:1 white from amazon, the HDMI fiber optic cable, 5050UB and professional installation. What sucks though is now my wife is on furlough, fingers crossed her position won't be axed, we lost her income, so spending $4k right now might not be the smartest thing to do. I work in a bank and we have a pretty good Visa promo with 23 months 0%apr, so that is an option. We will see.............once I'm done, I will post the finished pictures


Looks great! The ceiling does look kind of low where that platform is. What's the height of the ceiling where the platform is?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

Thanks, the ceiling is about 6 1/2ft from 2nd tier and about 7 1/2 from ground level


----------



## biglen

mon2479 said:


> Thanks, the ceiling is about 6 1/2ft from 2nd tier and about 7 1/2 from ground level


Will your head hit the projector if you are standing up? That would be my only concern. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

It will be close, adults will just have to be careful


----------



## biglen

mon2479 said:


> It will be close, adults will just have to be careful


Gotcha. I think my ceilings are the same height as you, and I've been wanting to build a riser like that. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## alangsk

mon2479 said:


> Thanks, the ceiling is about 6 1/2ft from 2nd tier and about 7 1/2 from ground level



How tall is the riser?


----------



## mon2479

It's a little over 1ft tall, no more than 1 1/2


----------



## biglen

mon2479 said:


> It's a little over 1ft tall, no more than 1 1/2


So you probably used 12" joists to frame it out ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

What's the advantage of a riser anyways? Hiding speakers or is it mostly for looks?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> What's the advantage of a riser anyways? Hiding speakers or is it mostly for looks?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Speaking for myself, it would get my eye level in the proper position of the screen, which I'm told is about the bottom 3rd of the screen. My front speakers are on stands, so the image I project on my painted screen, is a little higher than normal. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

reechings said:


> What's the advantage of a riser anyways? Hiding speakers or is it mostly for looks?



Unless your Screen is mounted extremely High....a Riser for the 2nd Row of seats allows those sitting behind the 1st row to see the Bottom edge of the Screen. Ideally so....sadly, some do undershoot that mark. 



Trying to fathom the "Hiding Speakers" thingee though.....


----------



## reechings

MississippiMan said:


> Unless your Screen is mounted extremely High....a Riser for the 2nd Row of seats allows those sitting behind the 1st row to see the Bottom edge of the Screen. Ideally so....sadly, some do undershoot that mark.
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to fathom the "Hiding Speakers" thingee though.....


Sorry my bad for not being clear. Riser makes sense for second row of seats. I was meaning more for when there is a platform below the screen. I'm pretty sure I've seen that before or maybe I imagined it.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

Strahan said:


> Hello all. I just bought a 5050UB last week. It's great having a projector again; I had a Sanyo PLV-Z4 back in the late 2000s. So far I love it.
> 
> I do have two things that are annoying; the PJ seems to want to switch inputs as soon as a device comes on. I'm on HDMI1 with my HTPC and I hit the power for my Bluray player and bam, now the PJ goes to HDMI2 automatically. Irritating as I wasn't ready to switch yet. Is there a way to shut that off?
> 
> Second, does anyone else have a problem with the projector not properly remembering lens settings? I have a 127" scope screen, using lens memory to do CIH. I have memory 1 for 2.35:1 and memory 2 for 1.78:1. I have the 1.78:1 perfectly fit on the screen then save it. The next day I'm watching a scope movie and I switch back to HTPC so I hit memory 2 and it gets almost perfect, except it's about an inch too low. Has anyone else seen behavior like that? Is there a fix?
> 
> Thanks!


Solution: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-140.html#post48985465


----------



## MississippiMan

reechings said:


> Sorry my bad for not being clear. Riser makes sense for second row of seats. I was meaning more for when there is a platform below the screen. I'm pretty sure I've seen that before or maybe I imagined it.



Oh.....then you mean a "Proscenium".....or Stage Protrusion.


In most "Home Theater" examples, such a construct usually is between 36" to 44" tall, and may also involve Curtains to each side. It also must protrude out from the Wall / Screen to qualify as a Proscenium....acting like a ad hoc Stage. Below is an example of a 18 Seat, 3 Riser level theater (AVS Member too! CalBear )



Usually.....each Side (...or the Center...) can serve to enclose larger Speakers such as Sub Woofers, but seldom the Right & Left Mains. Also, such a "Stage" usually goes hand-n-glove with a multi-row of seating, the rear on a Riser, because it fills the space between the Floor and the bottom edge of the Screen.


BTW...that is a 215" diagonal "Painted Drywall Screen" above that massive Proscenium....and believe it or not, a 700 lumen JVC RS2 is doing the honors on a DIY S-I-L-V-E-R screen. 

(....if the 5050 had been in existence, be absolutely certain it would have been considered...)


----------



## acosmichippo

hey guys, finally got my spears & Munsil disc to calibrate, and I have a question about the contrast setting. Using Digital Cinema Mode and all settings other than contrast are still defaults. As a BD player I’m using an xbox One X.

On the SDR Contrast screen (which they say we should use to calibrate instead of the HDR contrast screen), and in order to see the bars up to ~1017 I have to set the contrast down to about 33:

spears&munsil with 50 contrast: https://imgur.com/Z2rwKjA (hard to see in the pic but the lower bars are visible up to about 950)
spears&munsil with 33 contrast: https://imgur.com/kUNSU20

That seemed really weird to me, so as a sanity check I tried the Xbox’s built-in calibration tool. It likes the contrast set way higher around the default of 50:

Xbox with 33 contrast: https://imgur.com/Aoehihb
Xbox with 47 contrast: https://imgur.com/x2LWpkJ (hard to see in this pic but in person the sun is still visible)


Can anyone help me understand the difference between the two tests? Is there another setting I need to adjust on the projector to resolve the difference?

Thanks for any help!


----------



## Luminated67

acosmichippo said:


> hey guys, finally got my spears & Munsil disc to calibrate, and I have a question about the contrast setting. Using Digital Cinema Mode and all settings other than contrast are still defaults. As a BD player I’m using an xbox One X.
> 
> On the SDR Contrast screen (which they say we should use to calibrate instead of the HDR contrast screen), and in order to see the bars up to ~1017 I have to set the contrast down to about 33:
> 
> spears&munsil with 50 contrast: https://imgur.com/Z2rwKjA
> spears&munsil with 33 contrast: https://imgur.com/kUNSU20
> 
> That seemed really weird to me, so as a sanity check I tried the Xbox’s built-in calibration tool. It likes the contrast set way higher around the default of 50:
> 
> Xbox with 33 contrast: https://imgur.com/Aoehihb
> Xbox with 47 contrast: https://imgur.com/x2LWpkJ
> 
> 
> Can anyone help me understand the difference between the two tests? Is there another setting I need to adjust on the projector to resolve the difference?
> 
> Thanks for any help!


I also couldn’t calibrate the contrast accurately, if you set the projector to 0-255 it’s no problem at all but this isn’t the right thing to do and oddly when I had it professionally calibrated his equipment didn’t have a problem and in the end both brightness and contrast sit in the default 50 position.


----------



## acosmichippo

Yeah that was my gut feeling as well. S&M say:

"If not all the bars can be made visible, you may want to check through the settings in your display or player to see if there is a mode switch that can put the device in the proper mode to show or send the entire video range. These modes are often called things like “Level Expansion,” “Super White,” or “Headroom.” You might try changing the output mode on your player, if it offers multiple modes such as “4:2:2,” “4:4:4,” or “RGB.” You may also want to search the internet to see if other people have encountered the problem and fixed it. If you cannot make the above-reference bars appear, then either the display or the player is clipping the levels in a way that can’t be recovered. Until you can fix or replace the problem component, continue calibrating using the levels that are visible."


----------



## DavidinGA

Luminated67 said:


> I also couldn’t calibrate the contrast accurately, if you set the projector to 0-255 it’s no problem at all but this isn’t the right thing to do and oddly when I had it professionally calibrated his equipment didn’t have a problem and in the end both brightness and contrast sit in the default 50 position.



Why do you believe setting your pj to 0-255 (expanded) isn't the right thing to do...?

Shouldn't your source and pj match? That should be the deciding factor, right?


I run my 5040 in expanded mode myself, because my source is sending a 0-255 signal.


----------



## ivanhoek

DavidinGA said:


> Why do you believe setting your pj to 0-255 (expanded) isn't the right thing to do...?
> 
> Shouldn't your source and pj match? That should be the deciding factor, right?
> 
> 
> I run my 5040 in expanded mode myself, because my source is sending a 0-255 signal.



You don’t have multiple sources? I think many people have a variety of sources and perhaps relying on a static setting causes pain.

Won’t they have to manually switch each time they watch a different source? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

ivanhoek said:


> You don’t have multiple sources? I think many people have a variety of sources and perhaps relying on a static setting causes pain.
> 
> Won’t they have to manually switch each time they watch a different source?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I suppose that could be a reason to do it that way.

I only have one source - an htpc that does it all so I leave it on full range.


----------



## ivanhoek

DavidinGA said:


> I suppose that could be a reason to do it that way.
> 
> I only have one source - an htpc that does it all so I leave it on full range.



I have two HTPCs, (Mac, Windows and Linux) a couple of game consoles, a couple of streaming devices, a Blu-ray player.. it’s a wide assortment of stuff 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## acosmichippo

The explanation I saw from XBOX support was:



> TV content is authored such that a value of 16 (on a 0-255 scale) represents full black and 235 represents full white (this color span = “RGB Limited”) and assumes the viewer's TV has been calibrated to show full black upon receiving a pixel value of 16 and to show full white upon receiving a value of 235. Xbox One is assumed to be connected to a TV (not a PC monitor), and we make our best efforts to optimize video content (movies, TV shows, content authored specific experience for video levels, i.e. "RGB Limited"), consistent with CE devices.
> Switching to RGB Full will cause loss of visual dynamic range on a properly calibrated TV.
> For reference, you can review the Spears and Munsil links below for a detailed description on calibrating your TV and background on color space.
> http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio/getting-started-with-the-high-definition-benchmark-2/
> http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/portfolio/choosing-a-color-space-2/
> Basically, you should always use the TV (RGB Limited) Color Space display setting on Xbox One. All video content (TV shows, Movies, Blu-ray, DVD, etc.) is authored for (RGB Limited). You’ll actually lose visual dynamic range if you select Color Space = PC (RGB Full).
> The "RGB Limited" setting could be named more accurately.


So my understanding from that is most video sources connected to TVs/projectors generally would use RGB Limited, but PC's connected to monitors would use RGB Full. Either one is fine as long as the source and display match. Most displays seem to have an "auto" setting to detect whatever the source is sending. 

XBOX only sends RGB Limited as explained above, and the 5050UB detects that correctly. But the problem is the S&M contrast pattern does not _look_ right with that setting. If you manually change the projector to RGB Full it _happens_ to look better on the contrast pattern, but that is not the correct setting for the XBOX (the display setting should always match the source). It causes other content on the xbox to look off even if the S&M contrast pattern looks great.


----------



## covsound1

This explains why i find myself jumping all over place even with this projector coming from a 5040. Do i limit my self to just one source or forget about hdr and settle for just bt2020 and rec709? I have had times when i could play 3 movies back to back with no adjustments than i get that one and its back to the drawing broads?


----------



## acosmichippo

so this is what S&M support told me just now:


> The Xbox contrast pattern only goes to 940. It does not take into account headroom. Since games are full range, when it remaps games to limited range there is nothing over 940 in a game.
> 
> 0-255 is full range and 16-235 is limited range. He limited part is misleading because 236-254 is head room.
> 
> Those of course are 8 bit values. For 10-bit like Ultra HD BD, it’s 64-940 for limited range with 941 to 1019 as head room.
> 
> Sorry for any typos, using my phone to respond at the moment.


Me:


> Thanks for the reply! So would you recommend setting the projector to 0-255, or would it be better to turn the contrast down to 33?
> 
> i also have an apple tv and PC hooked up as sources, so i imagine it would be better to leave the range as automatic on the projector and reduce the contrast instead, but i’m not sure i fully understand.
> 
> thanks again.


S&M:


> If it’s not too dim I would set to 33. Sometimes people compromise and find a spot in between. It’s for those wanting a little more contrast.
> 
> Apple TV will use limited range by default.
> 
> If you are a gamer, I would consider setting the console to full range for games and limited range for movies. This will give you a bit better quality from games since they are naturally rendered in full range and converted to limited range on output.
> 
> Most don’t want to do that constant switch.


honestly i can’t say i fully understand, but I didn’t want to bug them anymore, so i decided to just try going the route of turning the contrast down. After doing that i have settled on 26(!) contrast and 50 brightness. Anyway, currently watching guardians of the galaxy 2 in HDR and it actually looks pretty good, bright parts still seem really bright. i guess the next question is if SDR will seem too dim now...


----------



## covsound1

Good to know not alone. Have you tried to lower rgb offset and starting over. This was something i did with 5040 over the years to help normalize basic controls and brightness with hdr. Also even with 8 being the default of hdr range control do we calibrate with setting 1{more like sdr) and adjust down for hdr,or something below 8 and adjust up for brightness?


----------



## acosmichippo

covsound1 said:


> Good to know not alone. Have you tried to lower rgb offset and starting over.


no, where is that?


----------



## covsound1

acosmichippo said:


> no, where is that?


Your r g b is in the tint section. Try bringing down the red blue and green offset to 45. Than do your calibration over. Let me know what think.


----------



## Strahan

jorisdriesen said:


> Solution: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-140.html#post48985465


Thanks. That was a little confusing, but if I understand correctly the idea is to move toward where I want it and stop before I get there and use small adjustments to get to the final position so as to avoid moving back the other way... is that right?


----------



## jorisdriesen

Strahan said:


> Thanks. That was a little confusing, but if I understand correctly the idea is to move toward where I want it and stop before I get there and use small adjustments to get to the final position so as to avoid moving back the other way... is that right?


Yes.


----------



## Jeremy McCurdy

*Light blue splotches on new Epson PC6050UB*

Hi all, 
This is my first post and I’m new to the projector scene. I’ve researched this issue for a few days now and have reached out to Epson and my authorized dealer, who is out-of-state. 
I have a brand new 6050UB and have noticed the following issue over the last few days that 
I’m hoping the community have some insight on. 
While streaming content via Firestick 4K (Amazon Prime, Showtime, Hulu, Disney+), I’m noticing light blue splotches on areas of the image that are light in color (white, gray, tan, some faces, etc). I’ve tried pausing and adjusting any values I’ve changed back to their original values, to no avail. My preferred color mode is bright cinema, but it is noticeable in all color modes. I’ve noticed while streaming HD and 4K UHD content alike. It seems less noticeable-to-absent on 4K IHD discs and Blu-rays, but I have yet to compare the exact same content on both disc and streaming. Is this something you’ve heard of or seen before? The bulb has 30 hours on it as of now.
Per Epson’s FAQ’s, I tried switching the Color Space to BT 709, which does turn the blue areas into light gray areas, but it also makes the entire image more gray overall and less vibrant and rich. I don’t prefer the end result. If it turn up the color saturation to bring back the life to the rest of the picture, it brings the blue areas back with it. 
I can also dissipate the blues by turning the saturation from 50 down to 20 or so (while in auto color mode, not 709), which leaves the whole picture grey. 
I emailed Epson, and here was their reply:

“It is not commonly known, but streaming services don't want you to lose "frames" of content causing drops or skips in your viewing experience so they "dynamically throttle" (resolution and/or bit depth) the incoming signal based on your home network Wi-Fi signal strength. In your case, it sounds like the bit depth has been reduced not the resolution, so you are seeing a loss of color depth.
Don't bother trying to adjust the projectors settings for it.

As you mentioned - It’s less noticeable-to-absent on 4K UHD discs and Blu-rays.
Please only consider checking or testing the image quality using UHD 4K Blu-Ray Player and UHD 4K Movies!

By the way there are a number of articles out right now that many of the major Streaming services are all throttling so as to not crash the Interweb due to everyone being home and watching TV.
Your issue may also be a result of this, if it is a recent observation.

https://newatlas.com/home-entertainment/streaming-netflix-youtube-throttling-reduced-quality/

https://www.androidpit.com/netflix-youtube-reduce-streaming-quality

https://www.pcworld.com/article/3534032/youtube-defaults-to-lower-resolution-streams-in-the-us.html“

Lastly, I’ll try to attach pictures I took from Avengers: Endgame, streamed in 4K UHD via Firestick 4K on Disney+ that show the blue areas that aren’t supposed to be there. I have noticed it on everything else I’ve streamed as well. 

Can anyone share thoughts or insight on this for me?

Thank you,

Jeremy


----------



## Jeremy McCurdy

Sorry, that posting was supposed to be a new topic. Don’t know why it posted in here, and can’t figure out for the life of me how to edit or delete it. Sorry!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Jeremy McCurdy said:


> Hi all,
> This is my first post and I’m new to the projector scene. I’ve researched this issue for a few days now and have reached out to Epson and my authorized dealer, who is out-of-state.
> I have a brand new 6050UB and have noticed the following issue over the last few days that
> I’m hoping the community have some insight on.
> While streaming content via Firestick 4K (Amazon Prime, Showtime, Hulu, Disney+), I’m noticing light blue splotches on areas of the image that are light in color (white, gray, tan, some faces, etc). I’ve tried pausing and adjusting any values I’ve changed back to their original values, to no avail. My preferred color mode is bright cinema, but it is noticeable in all color modes. I’ve noticed while streaming HD and 4K UHD content alike. It seems less noticeable-to-absent on 4K IHD discs and Blu-rays, but I have yet to compare the exact same content on both disc and streaming. Is this something you’ve heard of or seen before? The bulb has 30 hours on it as of now.
> Per Epson’s FAQ’s, I tried switching the Color Space to BT 709, which does turn the blue areas into light gray areas, but it also makes the entire image more gray overall and less vibrant and rich. I don’t prefer the end result. If it turn up the color saturation to bring back the life to the rest of the picture, it brings the blue areas back with it.
> I can also dissipate the blues by turning the saturation from 50 down to 20 or so (while in auto color mode, not 709), which leaves the whole picture grey.
> I emailed Epson, and here was their reply:
> 
> “It is not commonly known, but streaming services don't want you to lose "frames" of content causing drops or skips in your viewing experience so they "dynamically throttle" (resolution and/or bit depth) the incoming signal based on your home network Wi-Fi signal strength. In your case, it sounds like the bit depth has been reduced not the resolution, so you are seeing a loss of color depth.
> Don't bother trying to adjust the projectors settings for it.
> 
> As you mentioned - It’s less noticeable-to-absent on 4K UHD discs and Blu-rays.
> Please only consider checking or testing the image quality using UHD 4K Blu-Ray Player and UHD 4K Movies!
> 
> By the way there are a number of articles out right now that many of the major Streaming services are all throttling so as to not crash the Interweb due to everyone being home and watching TV.
> Your issue may also be a result of this, if it is a recent observation.
> 
> https://newatlas.com/home-entertainment/streaming-netflix-youtube-throttling-reduced-quality/
> 
> https://www.androidpit.com/netflix-youtube-reduce-streaming-quality
> 
> https://www.pcworld.com/article/3534032/youtube-defaults-to-lower-resolution-streams-in-the-us.html“
> 
> Lastly, I’ll try to attach pictures I took from Avengers: Endgame, streamed in 4K UHD via Firestick 4K on Disney+ that show the blue areas that aren’t supposed to be there. I have noticed it on everything else I’ve streamed as well.
> 
> Can anyone share thoughts or insight on this for me?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Jeremy


Streaming services due to throttling right now I have been giving very inconsistent picture quality results to say the very least. Epson's email seems totally in line with how you should go about testing the picture quality for the projector.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## R o d

Regarding the Spears & Munsil 4K UHD calibration disk, how useful is it in the hands of an HT enthusiast who is somewhat experienced with projectors, but is not a professional? And specifically how useful for the 5050?

Their disclaimer says this :
Although some of this disc can be used by consumers, much of this disc comprises professional patterns which cannot be used without instrumentation.


----------



## ivanhoek

R o d said:


> Regarding the Spears & Munsil 4K UHD calibration disk, how useful is it in the hands of an HT enthusiast who is somewhat experienced with projectors, but is not a professional? And specifically how useful for the 5050?
> 
> Their disclaimer says this :
> Although some of this disc can be used by consumers, much of this disc comprises professional patterns which cannot be used without instrumentation.



Honestly... just make the image look good to you. A generally accurate image is good. If you’re not a pro, then absolute accuracy as measured doesn’t really matter.

Enjoy your system, if it looks good and you don’t have crush or missing detail , you’re doing well.

Just my opinion..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NxNW

R o d said:


> Regarding the Spears & Munsil 4K UHD calibration disk, how useful is it in the hands of an HT enthusiast who is somewhat experienced with projectors, but is not a professional? And specifically how useful for the 5050?
> 
> Their disclaimer says this :
> Although some of this disc can be used by consumers, much of this disc comprises professional patterns which cannot be used without instrumentation.


It's useful even without instrumentation. For each pattern you hit the up arrow and there's a help screen that explains to the lay person what you should see. A lot of that info is also covered in the articles you can read on their website. Have a look: http://spearsandmunsil.com/3rd-edition-articles/ 

It is true however the most important steps are just confirming your color space settings are right and setting brightness correctly. After that most people can just relax and enjoy their projector.


----------



## b_scott

what is beneficial about 18GBps HDMI, vs 1.4 spec?


----------



## ivanhoek

b_scott said:


> what is beneficial about 18GBps HDMI, vs 1.4 spec?



Being able to do 4K at 60hz for one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

ivanhoek said:


> Being able to do 4K at 60hz for one.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


ok. But what outputs 4K 60hz? No consoles do in general except for a couple games (Forza), and probably won't for a long time in general. Movies aren't in 60hz, 24hz is standard. I guess PC games would be the thing.


----------



## ivanhoek

b_scott said:


> ok. But what outputs 4K 60hz? No consoles do in general except for a couple games (Forza), and probably won't for a long time in general. Movies aren't in 60hz, 24hz is standard. I guess PC games would be the thing.



PC’s for one, just using the desktop. Also streamers... my AppleTV and Roku outputs 4k60 and I prefer that to setting it to auto switch refresh rates which requires resync and is annoying.

It’s also good for 60hz content that is upscaled to 4K , again on the streamers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

b_scott said:


> ok. But what outputs 4K 60hz? No consoles do in general except for a couple games (Forza), and probably won't for a long time in general. Movies aren't in 60hz, 24hz is standard. I guess PC games would be the thing.



Plenty of content isn’t 24hz but rather 60hz... TV shows, many are 60hz, some movies, streaming series, etc... I run across it very often watching stuff on my streaming boxes.

Not to mention if you have live TV from a cable box you will want the ability to do 60hz.

Yes, it’s not 4K60 but rather 1080p60... but still 60hz.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## b_scott

ivanhoek said:


> Plenty of content isn’t 24hz but rather 60hz... TV shows, many are 60hz, some movies, streaming series, etc... I run across it very often watching stuff on my streaming boxes.
> 
> Not to mention if you have live TV from a cable box you will want the ability to do 60hz.
> 
> Yes, it’s not 4K60 but rather 1080p60... but still 60hz.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


right, I know some content is 60, but not 4K60, which is what I'm saying.


----------



## ivanhoek

b_scott said:


> right, I know some content is 60, but not 4K60, which is what I'm saying.



Yeah but on the streaming boxes I’ve used you can’t set it to auto switch resolution, only refresh rate.

So if you set yours at 4K, then you also want the ability to do 4K60 so you can display such content correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

ivanhoek said:


> Yeah but on the streaming boxes I’ve used you can’t set it to auto switch resolution, only refresh rate.
> 
> So if you set yours at 4K, then you also want the ability to do 4K60 so you can display such content correctly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



The main reason I want higher refresh rates is because I use my projector as a primary display. I display everything through it, consoles , PC, streaming etc

And using a PC at under 60hz sucks. Same deal with a console... I’d love even higher refresh rates.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## noob00224

b_scott said:


> right, I know some content is 60, but not 4K60, which is what I'm saying.


What they mean is 4K + HDR + 60Hz. The 5040UB can do 4K + 60Hz, but not with HDR added. It is kind of a mute point since most HDR also comes in 4K. There are a few examples of 1080p HDR, but mostly is 4K and HDR.

As I mentioned on another thread, dropping the bit depth on the 5040 to 8 from 10 can result in banding effect.


----------



## MississippiMan

noob00224 said:


> What they mean is 4K + HDR + 60Hz. The 5040UB can do 4K + 60Hz, but not with HDR added. It is kind of a mute point since most HDR also comes in 4K. There are a few examples of 1080p HDR, but mostly is 4K and HDR.
> 
> As I mentioned on another thread, dropping the bit depth on the 5040 to 8 from 10 can result in banding effect.



At last! Someone came up with the real reason. I was a'gonna, but I had to field 2 calls and when I returned....viola!



The lack of 18gb capability was the real factor that limited the 5040, and the inclusion of same in the 5050 was a real Game changer. Everything else just came along for the ride.


HDR10 / 10+ requires (demands) 18gb. You simply cannot have it without it.


----------



## b_scott

thanks! i'll keep that in mind. I think I will have to deal with some banding for half the cost on 5040 at least to start out for a couple years.


----------



## covsound1

It is not only the banding which did not happen all the time with 5040. But having the ability to push your enhancements higher with less artifacts. Most people complain of dark picture with hdr because they are not seeing a developed image.Full hdr allows you to stay in the movie on dark moments.Even with my oled and its best in class blacks i find the 5050 more enjoyable!


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## b_scott

covsound1 said:


> It is not only the banding which did not happen all the time with 5040. But having the ability to push your enhancements higher with less artifacts. Most people complain of dark picture with hdr because they are not seeing a developed image.Full hdr allows you to stay in the movie on dark moments.Even with my oled and its best in class blacks i find the 5050 more enjoyable!


That's great! I can't afford 3K for a projector right now


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## ivanhoek

b_scott said:


> That's great! I can't afford 3K for a projector right now



5040 is a great projector. I was very happy with an old 1080p Sony HW50es until recently, and only upgraded because it died on me...

You’ll be very happy with the 5040 which is much better than that 1080p Sony was 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Drew1204

In regards to the lens shift settings, the manual states:

"Note: You cannot move the image to both the horizontal and vertical maximum values."

Using projector central's throw calculator it says:

At 24ft distance, with a 135 inch centered image, the projected image can be shifted an additional 64″ up from the top, 64″ down from the bottom, 55″ over from the left, and 55″ over from the right edge of the image using the projector's lens shift capability.

*Where I am mounting the projector I will need about 45 inches left and about 50 inches down shift*. Is that going to be an issue? Or does the manual state that only because if it is moved to a maximum left / right or vertical shift then it will not move at all? But say 1 inch less than maximum values then it would be ok? 

*What are the max vertical / left and right settings I can do at the same time @ 24ft distance, with a 135 inch 16:9 centered image?
*

EDIT: I will be using the 6050ub.


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## covsound1

I also came from the sony camp. With the 5040 i got away with limitations with the help of HD fury. With the latest device you should be able to send dv and hdr10+ to the projector? Once dialed in a panny 4k player will take it even OCD on the 5040/5050. We should really combine both forums as you have great talent on both and more in common.


----------



## Jmouse007

Ok, brief update. 
First off thanks to everyone on the forum for all of your helpful advice re: setting up our Epson 6050UB. It was really helpful.

I finally received the Epson 6050UB that I had ordered over a month ago which turned out to be perfect timing since we are housebound having been ordered to "stay/shelter in place". 

I replaced our Chief projector mount with the new one that came with the 6050UB (glad I did because the new Chief mount has some very nice upgrades), got the projector hung, leveled, setup and dialed in over a period of three days.

The first thing my wife said after I let her fire it up for the first time and saw the picture it throws was: 

"WOW, is that picture SHARP!"  KTWH (keep the wife happy) factor = CHECK 

*As to SDE = no visible "screen door effect". You really have to get VERY CLOSE to our 100" STEWART screen to see the pixel structure. Even from half our normal 1st row seating distance SDE is a "non issue".

Panel/RGB pixel structure and picture uniformity across the entire image was perfect right out of the box! I didn't have to shift any of the red or green panels at all, the pixels were spot on. Maybe because Epson double boxed the projector 

The "Natural image" color setting out of the box is very good. And the 6050UB's contrast performance in our non "bat cave", light controlled multipurpose HT room, especially with the dynamic iris set to "High" is excellent; rich, deep, blacks.

Because the Epson 6050UB is so BRIGHT for the first time ever we can also watch our 100" 16/9 ALR STEWART screen with the light's on and still have a great picture. Yes it definitely throws better blacks/superb contrast with the lights off, but it sure is great to have the option.

We purchased 2 pair of new OEM Epson 3D glasses (hard to find). Watched Tron Legacy, Guardians of the Galaxy, Avatar and Titanic in 3D. 
Everything worked flawlessly and boy does 3D look great on the 6050UB!

The projector does an excellent job upconverting 1080p Blu-ray disks (breathed new life into our existing 1080p Blu-ray collection), and other 1080p sources. 

Even HD broadcast cable TV looks really good, and 4K streaming on Amazon Prime, Netflix and YouTube looks stunning (*we fortunately have very good "high speed" Internet service in our area). 

Needless to say we are exceptionally pleased with our purchase and highly recommend the Epson 6050UB to anyone who is in the market for a 4K projector. 

Yes the Epson 6050UB is an "e-shift" projector, but it throws a RICH, COLORFUL, exceptionally SHARP, BRIGHT, and DETAILED 4K image. And to top it off it has very low lag time so we will definitely be "gaming on the big screen"!

This projector is definitely performing/punching way above its cost/weight class and represents an incredible dollar to performance value.


----------



## fakerus

Hey guys, looking for some help. I’m a new 5050 owner, I just got the unit set up and have been testing it out with different content. So far so good, the pic is great but ITS SO LOUD. Even in eco mode the fan is extremely audible. The projector is ceiling mounted, it’s about 6’ above my head in the MLP. The fan noise isn’t that noticeable during action sequences but almost unbearable during quiet scenes. My Sony VPL 40es was basically silent . Any suggestions?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

fakerus said:


> Hey guys, looking for some help. I’m a new 5050 owner, I just got the unit set up and have been testing it out with different content. So far so good, the pic is great but ITS SO LOUD. Even in eco mode the fan is extremely audible. The projector is ceiling mounted, it’s about 6’ above my head in the MLP. The fan noise isn’t that noticeable during action sequences but almost unbearable during quiet scenes. My Sony VPL 40es was basically silent . Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



The projector isn’t totally silent, but maybe you have a super quiet room? In my case the AC makes a lot more noise.. not to mention the actual audio of the content. 

Maybe try building a hush box. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Malodium

Im sorry to ask this as I imagine it has been asked already somewhere in this thread. I have a Roku Premier and it is telling me I am not capable of a 4K HDR 60hz video. It says I can do 4K HDR 30k only. Is this reliable? I have a fiber optic cable from MonoPrice that I do recall some saying they were having some issues with.
Was just hoping I wouldn't have to buy another one. Bought it over a year ago but just recently was able to buy my new Epson 5050 and get it installed.


----------



## ivanhoek

Malodium said:


> Im sorry to ask this as I imagine it has been asked already somewhere in this thread. I have a Roku Premier and it is telling me I am not capable of a 4K HDR 60hz video. It says I can do 4K HDR 30k only. Is this reliable? I have a fiber optic cable from MonoPrice that I do recall some saying they were having some issues with.
> Was just hoping I wouldn't have to buy another one. Bought it over a year ago but just recently was able to buy my new Epson 5050 and get it installed.



If you’re going through an AVR perhaps it’s the AVR or its settings.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Malodium

ivanhoek said:


> If you’re going through an AVR perhaps it’s the AVR or its settings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



I am, and thanks ill check that. Its a Denon receiver. Believe it's last years 9 channel model, cant recall the model number.


----------



## biglen

Malodium said:


> I am, and thanks ill check that. Its a Denon receiver. Believe it's last years 9 channel model, cant recall the model number.


Make sure Enhanced is set on the inputs. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Malodium

biglen said:


> Make sure Enhanced is set on the inputs.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Thanks, I made the switch. My Roku display was all messed up after the switch but I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it's reporting the 4k at 60hz now. Thank you!


----------



## biglen

Malodium said:


> Thanks, I made the switch. My Roku display was all messed up after the switch but I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it's reporting the 4k at 60hz now. Thank you!


Nice ! Glad you got it sorted out. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

Do you guys ever noticed weird picture artifacts in the bottom black bar? For whatever reason the bottom bar doesn’t stay completely black and has weird pixelization during dark scenes. And it looks like a faint red shadow all the way at the bottom. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

fakerus said:


> Do you guys ever noticed weird picture artifacts in the bottom black bar? For whatever reason the bottom bar doesn’t stay completely black and has weird pixelization during dark scenes. And it looks like a faint red shadow all the way at the bottom.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



What source device are you using when you see this and what display settings?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

ivanhoek said:


> What source device are you using when you see this and what display settings?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Netflix through 4K Apple TV. Bright cinema. Also, I turned the eco setting on which seemed to help the noise a bit. I’m still not too thrilled with it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

fakerus said:


> Netflix through 4K Apple TV. Bright cinema. Also, I turned the eco setting on which seemed to help the noise a bit. I’m still not too thrilled with it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I also have an Atv4k and have seen this before, even with a different 4K projector. I had an UHD60 and had that problem with some 4K hdr content. 

I believe this is an Apple issue.

I haven’t seen this in a long time though...

I use 4K SDR settings with 4:4:4 and then auto switch the color space only (so it goes to hdr, but always stays at 60hz)

Try that and see


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

ivanhoek said:


> I also have an Atv4k and have seen this before, even with a different 4K projector. I had an UHD60 and had that problem with some 4K hdr content.
> 
> I believe this is an Apple issue.
> 
> I haven’t seen this in a long time though...
> 
> I use 4K SDR settings with 4:4:4 and then auto switch the color space only (so it goes to hdr, but always stays at 60hz)
> 
> Try that and see
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I’ll give that a shot, thank you. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fakerus

Another day, another issue. So I have all of my components fed through my Marantz sr8012–>5050ub. This morning I turned on the PS4 (which was working fine yesterday) and got the no signal message on the screen. The sound was going in and out. I unplugged the PS4 and plugged it back in and I got a picture for 15 seconds and then no signal message. I tried a different hdmi cable with no luck. The Apple TV and cable box both work fine on the other inputs. So I tried switching the projector input from hdmi 1 to hdmi 2.......picture works as it should. Switched back to hdmi 1 no signal. Any of you guys have any idea what’s going on?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

fakerus said:


> Do you guys ever noticed weird picture artifacts in the bottom black bar? For whatever reason the bottom bar doesn’t stay completely black and has weird pixelization during dark scenes. And it looks like a faint red shadow all the way at the bottom.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Can you take a photo to show us what you mean.


----------



## Luminated67

fakerus said:


> Another day, another issue. So I have all of my components fed through my Marantz sr8012–>5050ub. This morning I turned on the PS4 (which was working fine yesterday) and got the no signal message on the screen. The sound was going in and out. I unplugged the PS4 and plugged it back in and I got a picture for 15 seconds and then no signal message. I tried a different hdmi cable with no luck. The Apple TV and cable box both work fine on the other inputs. So I tried switching the projector input from hdmi 1 to hdmi 2.......picture works as it should. Switched back to hdmi 1 no signal. Any of you guys have any idea what’s going on?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What’s your HDMi cable and how long is it?


----------



## biglen

fakerus said:


> Another day, another issue. So I have all of my components fed through my Marantz sr8012–>5050ub. This morning I turned on the PS4 (which was working fine yesterday) and got the no signal message on the screen. The sound was going in and out. I unplugged the PS4 and plugged it back in and I got a picture for 15 seconds and then no signal message. I tried a different hdmi cable with no luck. The Apple TV and cable box both work fine on the other inputs. So I tried switching the projector input from hdmi 1 to hdmi 2.......picture works as it should. Switched back to hdmi 1 no signal. Any of you guys have any idea what’s going on?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I had a similar issue. I switched my HDMI cable to Input 2 on the 5050, and everything worked great. That's 2 of us now, who can't use input 1. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Musty Hustla

biglen said:


> I had a similar issue. I switched my HDMI cable to Input 2 on the 5050, and everything worked great. That's 2 of us now, who can't use input 1.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 Make it three. I switched to input 2 for a couple of weeks, and then one random afternoon I tried HDMI 1. HMDI 1 has been fine since.


I thought it was my in wall HMDI run but it tested fine on my HMDI tester and an electrician's tool. Now I think it is the projector.


----------



## biglen

Musty Hustla said:


> Make it three. I switched to input 2 for a couple of weeks, and then one random afternoon I tried HDMI 1. HMDI 1 has been fine since.
> 
> 
> I thought it was my in wall HMDI run but it tested fine on my HMDI tester and an electrician's tool. Now I think it is the projector.


So initially you had an issue with HDMI 1, switched to 2, and now you are back to 1, and it's fine?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Musty Hustla

biglen said:


> So initially you had an issue with HDMI 1, switched to 2, and now you are back to 1, and it's fine?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


correct


----------



## covsound1

Lock ups caused by hcp system 2.1. Maybe a future software update form epson? But for now as you have found out just switch hdmi from 1 to 2 and back for fix. Better than turning off projector to reset.


----------



## fakerus

SOLVED. I called Epson and got no where. They recommended I try looking for an ultra black setting in the PS4 settings( not a thing) or updating the firmware on the projector(bull****). Apparently HDMI 1 allows for “better upscalling”. Which is why hdmi 2 works fine. I figured out the issue after messing in the settings. If you go into the Signal menu>advanced>EDID and turn in to normal
instead of expanded the PS4 works fine on HDMI 1. I saved the normal setting in memory 1 and saved the expanded setting in memory 2. For whatever reason my 4K Apple TV won’t stay in 4K hdr with the EDID setting on normal. Hope that’s helps you guys.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

fakerus said:


> SOLVED. I called Epson and got no where. They recommended I try looking for an ultra black setting in the PS4 settings( not a thing) or updating the firmware on the projector(bull****). Apparently HDMI 1 allows for “better upscalling”. Which is why hdmi 2 works fine. I figured out the issue after messing in the settings. If you go into the Signal menu>advanced>EDID and turn in to normal
> instead of expanded the PS4 works fine on HDMI 1. I saved the normal setting in memory 1 and saved the expanded setting in memory 2. For whatever reason my 4K Apple TV won’t stay in 4K hdr with the EDID setting on normal. Hope that’s helps you guys.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Where did you hear that HDMI 1 is better for upscaling? I've never heard that before. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

biglen said:


> Where did you hear that HDMI 1 is better for upscaling? I've never heard that before.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Epson tech support. I also remember something being mentioned in one of the YouTube reviews about a distinct difference between the two. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fakerus

Hdmi 1 is actually HDCP 2.2 compatible. Which has nothing to do with upscaling. I just rewatched the review I was thinking of. It’s amazing how misinformed the Epson techs are. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

fakerus said:


> Hdmi 1 is actually HDCP 2.2 compatible. Which has nothing to do with upscaling. I just rewatched the review I was thinking of. It’s amazing how misinformed the Epson techs are.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So there is no difference between the 2 HDMI inputs?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

biglen said:


> So there is no difference between the 2 HDMI inputs?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



No, they are both 2.0. I still don’t get why hdmi doesn’t work with a PS4 without adjusting the signal EDEM. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## biglen

fakerus said:


> No, they are both 2.0. I still don’t get why hdmi doesn’t work with a PS4 without adjusting the signal EDEM.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have a PS4 too. I've never had any issues, so what setting should I be looking for, that you were having an issue with? I'll see if it happens with my setup. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

fakerus said:


> Hdmi 1 is actually HDCP 2.2 compatible. Which has nothing to do with upscaling. I just rewatched the review I was thinking of. It’s amazing how misinformed the Epson techs are.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



What review? Is there a link in a post that I missed?


----------



## fakerus

fredworld said:


> What review? Is there a link in a post that I missed?









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fakerus

biglen said:


> I have a PS4 too. I've never had any issues, so what setting should I be looking for, that you were having an issue with? I'll see if it happens with my setup.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



PS4 pro? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## biglen

fakerus said:


> PS4 pro?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, regular PS4. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

fakerus said:


> https://youtu.be/DYyUrjzcKEg
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 Thanks for posting the link. So, is the manual wrong or is the video wroing? The manual says,


"Flexible connectivity
• Two HDMI ports with HDCP 2.2 support for video device or computer connections ...."


I've used both ports in the past with equal results on HDCP content from my UHD 4k Blu-rays.


----------



## fakerus

fredworld said:


> Thanks for posting the link. So, is the manual wrong or is the video wroing? The manual says,
> 
> 
> "Flexible connectivity
> • Two HDMI ports with HDCP 2.2 support for video device or computer connections ...."
> 
> 
> I've used both ports in the past with equal results on HDCP content from my UHD 4k Blu-rays.



No idea. I don’t watch any unlicensed content. I didn’t even know this was a thing until I looked into it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## covsound1

YES both ports have the same HDCP 18gb for video source 12 bit 4.4.4 hdr at 60hz. Helps with streaming and video content. I own both the panny 420 and older 900 4kplayers. At the moment i am using the 420 because it loads faster and some disc just wont play on the 900. Playing and comparing the ruko streamer with edit expanded 12 bit 4.2.2 hdr 24hz looks sharper and pops more than the panny playing 12 bit 4.4.4 hdr 59hz. Oh it looks smooth if thats what you like. But when i switch to edit normal 12 bit 4.2.2. hdr 24hz that last bit of detail and pop,wow factor! My question has anyone notice this and if this has been talk about sorry just trying to get a handle on this 5050?


----------



## pdeswardt

Does the 6050 have two HDCP2.2 ports as well? Only one is labled as such at the back.


----------



## covsound1

pdeswardt said:


> Does the 6050 have two HDCP2.2 ports as well? Only one is labled as such at the back.


yes the same 2.2 ports.


----------



## Luminated67

pdeswardt said:


> Does the 6050 have two HDCP2.2 ports as well? Only one is labled as such at the back.


I’m only using HDMI 1 on mine so don’t actually know but I would have thought if the 5050 has it then the 6050 will be the same.


----------



## skylarlove1999

The HDMI inputs on the 5050/6050 are identical. Any different results people get when connecting the same sources are either settings in the source, projector, AVR or HDMI cable issues. Epson customer service is not technical support even if they claim to be . You don't get to talk to tech support unless you cause a big stink by emailing their CEO. Or so I have heard. LOL. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## luke79

I'm having a fan rattling noise from time to time.
Anyone already tried to disassemble a 5050 and get to the fan for servicing?
Thanks


----------



## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> The HDMI inputs on the 5050/6050 are identical. Any different results people get when connecting the same sources are either settings in the source, projector, AVR or HDMI cable issues. Epson customer service is not technical support even if they claim to be . You don't get to talk to tech support unless you cause a big stink by emailing their CEO. Or so I have heard. LOL.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Right, the weird part is all of the settings are identical. There are no cable or avr issues since everything works perfectly fine with the hdmi 2 input on the projector. They wouldn’t actually put me through to their “real tech support” until I updated the firmware. I probably would have made a bigger stink about it if I didn’t figure out a way around it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

luke79 said:


> I'm having a fan rattling noise from time to time.
> 
> Anyone already tried to disassemble a 5050 and get to the fan for servicing?
> 
> Thanks


I'm positive your 5050 is under warranty unless you didn't buy it from an authorized dealer. If you were to disassemble a 5050 it would void your warranty. The price of the warranty is built into the projector so I would warranty it

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Quote:
Originally Posted by *luke79*  
_I'm having a fan rattling noise from time to time.

Anyone already tried to disassemble a 5050 and get to the fan for servicing?

Thanks_






skylarlove1999 said:


> I'm positive your 5050 is under warranty unless you didn't buy it from an authorized dealer. If you were to disassemble a 5050 it would void your warranty. The price of the warranty is built into the projector so I would warranty it
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Skylarlove1999 beat me to the punch about your 5050 being under warranty, yet. Call or write to *Epson's Custmer Service*.


----------



## reechings

Any idea how the upscaling quality would compare between using the 5050 or using it from a Denon x2600h?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> Any idea how the upscaling quality would compare between using the 5050 or using it from a Denon x2600h?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


The 5050 will do a better job. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> The 5050 will do a better job.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Does it upscale only 1080p stuff or will it do 720p/1080i?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> Does it upscale only 1080p stuff or will it do 720p/1080i?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


That's a good question. Hopefully @skylarlove1999 will jump in and answer that. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

This is getting comical. I’ve had my 5050 randomly shut off twice now for no reason. Have any of you guys experienced this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ivanhoek

fakerus said:


> This is getting comical. I’ve had my 5050 randomly shut off twice now for no reason. Have any of you guys experienced this?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



No. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

fakerus said:


> This is getting comical. I’ve had my 5050 randomly shut off twice now for no reason. Have any of you guys experienced this?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Are you running through an AVR and were you watching through a cable box of some kind when this happened by any chance

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> Are you watching through an AVR and were you watching through a cable box of some kind when this happened by any chance
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Yes (Marantz SR8012)and yes(Xfinity dvr) None of the remotes were near me btw. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

reechings said:


> Does it upscale only 1080p stuff or will it do 720p/1080i?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


It will upscale from 720P. Many television broadcasts are still in 720p. Fox, ABC, and ESPN are the major ones.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## fakerus

Weird part is that even I turned it back on it was on the Epson home menu and the input was set to 2 instead of 1


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## skylarlove1999

fakerus said:


> Yes (Marantz SR8012)and yes(Xfinity dvr) None of the remotes were near me btw.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Turning off HDMI Link in the projector's Settings menu should fix the projector shutdown problem.

I believe the problem was caused by your media streamer that's also connected to your projector. You probably switch projector inputs from Apple TV/Roku/Shield TV to the cable box. Then you watch TV for about 30 minutes before the projector shuts itself down. Probably your media streamer is set to auto-sleep after 30 minutes of inactivity, and it'd send a "power down" CEC command to its display device. Turn of the HDMI link in the Epson projector , the projector would then not receive the shutdown message from any connected device.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> Turning off HDMI Link in the projector's Settings menu should fix the projector shutdown problem.
> 
> I believe the problem was caused by your media streamer that's also connected to your projector. You probably switch projector inputs from Apple TV/Roku/Shield TV to the cable box. Then you watch TV for about 30 minutes before the projector shuts itself down. Probably your media streamer is set to auto-sleep after 30 minutes of inactivity, and it'd send a "power down" CEC command to its display device. Turn of the HDMI link in the Epson projector , the projector would then not receive the shutdown message from any connected device.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Interesting, that actually makes considering I was streaming through my apply tv before I switched to cable. And you’re right, it was around the time the Apple TV probably went into standby mode. But why did the projector switch to the home screen and change the input when I turned it back on?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

fakerus said:


> Interesting, that actually makes considering I was streaming through my apply tv before I switched to cable. And you’re right, it was around the time the Apple TV probably went into standby mode. But why did the projector switch to the home screen and change the input when I turned it back on?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Once again I think that is the HDMI link. I hate HDMI link. LOL. Honestly I turn it off in my AVR, source devices and my projector because of all of these irritating issues.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> Once again I think that is the HDMI link. I hate HDMI link. LOL. Honestly I turn it off in my AVR, source devices and my projector because of all of these irritating issues.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Thank you for the help! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

I just upgraded my receiver so that I can run 4k passthrough to my 6050. 
Should I run a new image setup on my Epson now that I can watch 4k HDR content?


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> Once again I think that is the HDMI link. I hate HDMI link. LOL. Honestly I turn it off in my AVR, source devices and my projector because of all of these irritating issues.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I have it ON with no issues but I suppose I only have a couple of Bluray Players and SKY connected to mine through my SONY AVR.

With this whole lockdown I'm considering building a PC and uploading all my Blurays on to it's harddrive using Kodi to scroll through them, anyone else doing this and would it be worthwhile putting MadVR on to the PC?


----------



## skylarlove1999

fakerus said:


> Thank you for the help!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did you test it out and see if you no longer have the projector turning off issue?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I have it ON with no issues but I suppose I only have a couple of Bluray Players and SKY connected to mine through my SONY AVR.
> 
> 
> 
> With this whole lockdown I'm considering building a PC and uploading all my Blurays on to it's harddrive using Kodi to scroll through them, anyone else doing this and would it be worthwhile putting MadVR on to the PC?


Everyone who uses mad VR says it's an absolute game-changer

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> Did you test it out and see if you no longer have the projector turning off issue?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I turned it off this morning but haven’t had a chance to test it yet


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mach250

Has anyone experienced their 6050 lens shift moving? Seems like every time I've turned it on lately I've had to lower it slightly to get it back within my screen. Don't think it's the mount since I'm having the lower the lens rather than raise it.


----------



## rekbones

Luminated67 said:


> With this whole lockdown I'm considering building a PC and uploading all my Blurays on to it's harddrive using Kodi to scroll through them, anyone else doing this and would it be worthwhile putting MadVR on to the PC?


I have been using KODI for years and have it side loaded on all my FireTV's and Shield. The standard edition does't support MadVR but you can run the many player's that do within KODI. HTPC/w MadVR is a game changer if you have the Graphics horsepower to support it. All my Discs are ripped to my 18TB Drobo nas. The latest edition of KODI has a fairly good tone mapper built in but no match for MadVR.


----------



## Dilema

I used Madvr and Kodi with 6050 and it is better than built in HDR slider. Better blacks less milky picture. 
It is not the case for JVC which I am using now. I prefer build in gamma for HDR versus DTM Madvr. But for Epson definitely it is slightly better HDR. Game changer I would call it not.


----------



## biglen

Dilema said:


> I used Madvr and Kodi with 6050 and it is better than built in HDR slider. Better blacks less milky picture.
> It is not the case for JVC which I am using now. I prefer build in gamma for HDR versus DTM Madvr. But for Epson definitely it is slightly better HDR. Game changer I would call it not.


What GPU are you using in your HTPC?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

Dilema said:


> I used Madvr and Kodi with 6050 and it is better than built in HDR slider. Better blacks less milky picture.
> It is not the case for JVC which I am using now. I prefer build in gamma for HDR versus DTM Madvr. But for Epson definitely it is slightly better HDR. Game changer I would call it not.


You find the JVC's dtm is better than madVR's???


----------



## Luminated67

Dilema said:


> I used Madvr and Kodi with 6050 and it is better than built in HDR slider. Better blacks less milky picture.
> It is not the case for JVC which I am using now. I prefer build in gamma for HDR versus DTM Madvr. But for Epson definitely it is slightly better HDR. Game changer I would call it not.


I have about 200 Blurays stored on a hard dive at work and currently have an additional 108 discs which I use through my bluray players but think it would be handier especially for when the kids come over again to use it rather than letting them handle my discs. And since I’m building a PC to do all of this adding MadVR which I believe is free anyway would be a no brainer.

One thing I have read though probably those that have it can advise is that it works best as SDR2020 instead of HDR.


----------



## Dilema

Correct. It is sdr set to BT2020 color. 

I use rtx2070S. I find after calibrating my JVC ST curve doing better job in most movies than Madvr DTM. I know majority people will find this controversial but I have both set and calibrated and more pop and more contrast I get from built in adjusted curve. I was surprised myself after using Madvr DTM on my 6050 before. DTM is better than custom curves you can load though. No doubt about it.


----------



## DavidinGA

Dilema said:


> Correct. It is sdr set to BT2020 color.
> 
> I use rtx2070S. I find after calibrating my JVC ST curve doing better job in most movies than Madvr DTM. I know majority people will find this controversial but I have both set and calibrated and more pop and more contrast I get from built in adjusted curve. I was surprised myself after using Madvr DTM on my 6050 before. DTM is better than custom curves you can load though. No doubt about it.


Hmm...

Are you gonna get your hands on an Envy at some point for further comparison? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## dloiphone

Anyone using the Samsung SSG-5150gb 3D glasses? Looking to try out the 3D option on the 6050

Thank you


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----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> I have about 200 Blurays stored on a hard dive at work and currently have an additional 108 discs which I use through my bluray players but think it would be handier especially for when the kids come over again to use it rather than letting them handle my discs. And since I’m building a PC to do all of this adding MadVR which I believe is free anyway would be a no brainer.
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I have read though probably those that have it can advise is that it works best as SDR2020 instead of HDR.[/quote @Luminated67, can you keep us updated on your HTPC build, and how MadVR looks with the 5050? Before I shell out $500 on a new GPU, I want to make sure it's worth the money.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ivanhoek

dloiphone said:


> Anyone using the Samsung SSG-5150gb 3D glasses? Looking to try out the 3D option on the 6050
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I have a pair of those with my 5050. They work great.

#correction 

I thought I had bought those since I looked at them... but I actually have these:

Elikliv 3D Glasses Active... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PX1Y63T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


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----------



## fakerus

This helped the noise/echo. I found that most of the noise was actually coming from the bottom of the unit and was bouncing off the ceiling. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## John Nathon

I recently upgraded from a Benq 2050 to the Epson 5050ub. For some reason, I now see what I believe is judder (seems like the screen studders during movement scenes). I see judder from playing HD Blurays, 4K blurays, and Netflix streaming. 

Any reason why I have never seen this on the much cheaper Benq 2050? I haven't changed any other devices except the projector. The Benq doesnt have frame interpolation and works just fine. 

I do sit pretty close to the screen, 125" screen sitting 9ft away. Would this be a product of moving from a DLP projecter to a LCD one?? Thanks


----------



## fredworld

John Nathon said:


> I recently upgraded from a Benq 2050 to the Epson 5050ub. For some reason, I now see what I believe is judder (seems like the screen studders during movement scenes). I see judder from playing HD Blurays, 4K blurays, and Netflix streaming. .... Would this be a product of moving from a DLP projecter to a LCD one?? Thanks



Yep! Most likely. It's there in mine, too. Honestly, to my eyes, it's no worse, and I think better, than my local Regal Cinema's digital projection. I went from a 15 year old sharp XV12000 to the 5050UB and it was readily apparent upon first viewing. So much so, that I wrote to Epson about it. They suggested feeding the projector a 1080P signal and try to minimize it with Frame Interpolation. After doing so, I decided I rather live with the judder.


----------



## natethelen

*IP Control*

I have read on other sites and in this thread that the 5050/6050 support IP control but cannot find any specifications for the protocol/ports. Does someone have this information?

Thank you!


----------



## Vitus4K

What's the native contrast of these 3-chip LCD 6050UB's?


----------



## noob00224

vitus4k said:


> what's the native contrast of these 3-chip lcd 6050ub's?


4000-5000:1


----------



## John Nathon

Thanks for sharing your experience regarding the judder. I really liked this projector on paper. Unfortunately, the noticable judder is too much for my comfort level. 

Is judder a inherent problem with LCDs in general or just in the 5050? I've only owned DLPs, but would like to try another LCD in hope to improve black levels.


----------



## biglen

John Nathon said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience regarding the judder. I really liked this projector on paper. Unfortunately, the noticable judder is too much for my comfort level.
> 
> Is judder a inherent problem with LCDs in general or just in the 5050? I've only owned DLPs, but would like to try another LCD in hope to improve black levels.


I have never noticed any judder, not has anyone else who's watched a movie on my 5050. Is this something that only certain people can notice? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## John Nathon

Perhaps there were a number of units that had a issue then. I may try replacing the unit with a new one vs completely returning it. 

I was thinking the judder may not be as noticeable if I was sitting farther than 9ft from the screen. 

I'd love to keep the 5050, but with moving scenes occasionally juddering/shuddering, it just takes the enjoyment out of it.


----------



## biglen

John Nathon said:


> Perhaps there were a number of units that had a issue then. I may try replacing the unit with a new one vs completely returning it.
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking the judder may not be as noticeable if I was sitting farther than 9ft from the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to keep the 5050, but with moving scenes occasionally juddering/shuddering, it just takes the enjoyment out of it.


Yeah, if it were that bad on my 5050, I know I'd notice it. I'd have to think if judder was an issue on these projectors, this thread would be filled with complaints. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> Yeah, if it were that bad on my 5050, I know I'd notice it. I'd have to think if judder was an issue on these projectors, this thread would be filled with complaints.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Having a 6050 and never experienced this either. It could be a combination of settings involved in devices in the chain. I would audit everything and see if you can find the cause before replacement.

Worst case, set everything to default and walk through setup again to ensure something didn't get set on a device that is causing the issue. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

jaredmwright said:


> Having a 6050 and never experienced this either. It could be a combination of settings involved in devices in the chain. I would audit everything and see if you can find the cause before replacement.
> 
> Worst case, set everything to default and walk through setup again to ensure something didn't get set on a device that is causing the issue.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I'm a hardcore gamer, and so is my son. If there was any judder going on, one of us would have noticed while playing the PS4. He games on super high end monitors, and is blown away at how well the 5050 handles gaming. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Mrkazador

John Nathon said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience regarding the judder. I really liked this projector on paper. Unfortunately, the noticable judder is too much for my comfort level.
> 
> Is judder a inherent problem with LCDs in general or just in the 5050? I've only owned DLPs, but would like to try another LCD in hope to improve black levels.


Give this a read. I also occasionally notice the "judder" on slow pans.

https://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/motion/stutter
https://www.projectorcentral.com/judder_24p.htm


----------



## Luminated67

John Nathon said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience regarding the judder. I really liked this projector on paper. Unfortunately, the noticable judder is too much for my comfort level.
> 
> Is judder a inherent problem with LCDs in general or just in the 5050? I've only owned DLPs, but would like to try another LCD in hope to improve black levels.


Some projectors handle it better than others and some people are more affected by it than others. DLPis probably the best setup bar none at handling motion and unfortunately you seem to be one of those people that notices it’s effect to the point it’s a problem. Think of it like Rainbow effect on DLPs, the vast majority of people never see it, a smaller percentage see it occasionally but it’s not a problem and some see it and can’t deal with it, well this is you with your Epson and it’s motion handling.

Maybe I suggest trying a Sony, in my opinion it’s almost as good as DLP plus it’s black levels are on par if not a little better than the Epson but unfortunately it’s significantly more expensive to buy.


----------



## covsound1

I can very well understand fans love with that dlp look. If years ago i had started with a 720p dlp projector i might be a fan too. That extra flow often takes me out of the film and makes me think i am looking at video. With that said the 5050 can do 59...hz and look smoother with better flow. (if you own a panny 4k or like just change your edit normal for 24hz or extended for 59...hz).


----------



## Vitus4K

The 5050/6050 does not handle 24p flawlessly?

What's the pulldown, if any, how do they handle a 24p signal?

What's the native refresh rate of the panels?


----------



## Luminated67

Update on PC upgrade for storing movies.

I'm not technically minded in the slight so leaving this up to the brother who is but isn't a home theatre buff (not a great combination LOL) anyway he has suggested trying a Nas server to store all the movies which I don't have to connect directly to my AVR but connect through my patch panel in another part of the house?

Double dutch to me so will have to go with the flow. LOL


----------



## biglen

John Nathon said:


> Perhaps there were a number of units that had a issue then. I may try replacing the unit with a new one vs completely returning it.
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking the judder may not be as noticeable if I was sitting farther than 9ft from the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd love to keep the 5050, but with moving scenes occasionally juddering/shuddering, it just takes the enjoyment out of it.


Do you have frame interpolation turned on maybe? I did notice when that was on, something did look a little off during motion scenes. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Vitus4K said:


> The 5050/6050 does not handle 24p flawlessly?
> 
> What's the pulldown, if any, how do they handle a 24p signal?
> 
> What's the native refresh rate of the panels?


There is no pullldown as far as I know.

Judder is preset on DLP as well, and it's because 24 frames are sometimes not enough to capture motion or panning smoothly. In this case the only way to solve the problem is through motion interpolation.

Video below is Benq HT3550 (DLP) (Left) and Epson HC3800 (3LCD) (Right). The right side is quicker because the Epson has better lag. @John Nathon you can search videos with the Epson 5000/6000 series and see if there is any comparable judder:






Another DLP vs. 3LCD;


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> There is no pullldown as far as I know.
> 
> Judder is preset on DLP as well, and it's because 24 frames are sometimes not enough to capture motion or panning smoothly. In this case the only way to solve the problem is through motion interpolation.
> 
> Video below is Benq HT3550 (DLP) (Left) and Epson HC3800 (3LCD) (Right). The right side is quicker because the Epson has better lag. @John Nathon you can search videos with the Epson 5000/6000 series and see if there is any comparable judder:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3B0jReZWRvk
> 
> Another DLP vs. 3LCD;
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QY9gfut-Gu4


Wow, I have never seen anything even remotely close to that on my 5050. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

biglen said:


> Wow, I have never seen anything even remotely close to that on my 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


What do you mean?


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> What do you mean?


The way the picture looks all screwed up during movement. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

biglen said:


> The way the picture looks all screwed up during movement.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


What is screwed up?

Half of the screen is the HT3550 on the left, and the other half it the HC3800 on the right.


----------



## Vitus4K

noob00224 said:


> What is screwed up?
> 
> Half of the screen is the HT3550 on the left, and the other half it the HC3800 on the right.


Yes, I think there's a misunderstanding here.

The first video is a blend between two projectors, HT3550 to the left, HC3800 on the right.


Clearly, the Epson HC3800 (LCD technology) acts more like a direct-view display, making it the ultimate projector for gaming.

The DLP seems to have a much slower response, judder, overall not as clean as the Epson.


The important note here is that the video consists of a blended picture, two projectors blended together, either in pre- or post production.

The projector the the right, the Epson, is the winner in terms of response and judder.


----------



## Vitus4K

noob00224 said:


> There is no pulldown as far as I know.



You have an Epson yourself?

I am very picky with 24p judder, meaning, there must be no uneven pulldown present, i.e. 3:2 etc.

4:4, 5:5 is fine, true 24hz is even better.


Have you done 24hz tests on an Epson?

How do they come out?

Very curious to find out the native refresh rate on these newest 3-chip LCD models.


Your contrast numbers seem right on point, 4-5000:1.


----------



## noob00224

Vitus4K said:


> Yes, I think there's a misunderstanding here.
> 
> The first video is a blend between two projectors, HT3550 to the left, HC3800 on the right.
> 
> 
> Cleary, the Epson HC3800 (LCD technology) acts more like a direct-view display, making it the ultimate projector for gaming.
> 
> The DLP seems to have a much slower response, judder, overall not as clean as the Epson.
> 
> 
> The important note here is that the video consists of a blended picture, two projectors blended together, either in pre- or post production.
> 
> The projector the the right, the Epson, is the winner in terms of response and judder.


4K DLP has more lag with the exception of the UHD50x and future models.

I don't think the image is done in post processing, it was real time, this is the page where it was tested:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...son-hc-3200-3800-revealed-3.html#post58718424
@DaGamePimp did the tests.


----------



## noob00224

Vitus4K said:


> You have an Epson yourself?
> 
> I am very picky with 24p judder, meaning, there must be no uneven pulldown present, i.e. 3:2 etc.
> 
> 4:4, 5:5 is fine, true 24hz is even better.
> 
> 
> Have you done 24hz tests on an Epson?
> 
> How do they come out?
> 
> Very curious to find out the native refresh rate on these newest 3-chip LCD models.
> 
> 
> Your contrast numbers seem right on point, 4-5000:1.


I don't have an Epson. From what I know, Epsons don't do pulldown, should do 24p fine.


----------



## Vitus4K

noob00224 said:


> I don't have an Epson. From what I know, Epsons don't do pulldown, should do 24p fine.


Thank you.


----------



## reechings

I keep refreshing the Epson clearance center hoping for a 5050 refurb. Doesn't seem to have the same power supply issues as the 5040 so I guess I may be waiting a while 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

dloiphone said:


> Anyone using the Samsung SSG-5150gb 3D glasses? Looking to try out the 3D option on the 6050
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I am using the SSG-5100GB and works great!


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> What is screwed up?
> 
> Half of the screen is the HT3550 on the left, and the other half it the HC3800 on the right.


Ohhhhhh. I didn't realize it was 2 screens, so that's what I'm seeing that looks weird. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

fakerus said:


> This helped the noise/echo. I found that most of the noise was actually coming from the bottom of the unit and was bouncing off the ceiling.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Has anyone else tried this? I wonder how much it helps...? 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

DavidinGA said:


> Has anyone else tried this? I wonder how much it helps...?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



Try it, it’s like $15 for a 12 pack of those things. I’d say it’s improved by 10-15%


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

fakerus said:


> Try it, it’s like $15 for a 12 pack of those things. I’d say it’s improved by 10-15%
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I think the improvement you see would have multiple factors: drywall ceiling versus drop ceiling, how far the projector is from the ceiling and projector's proximity to MLP. I am sure it helps.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> I think the improvement you see would have multiple factors: drywall ceiling versus drop ceiling, how far the projector is from the ceiling and projector's proximity to MLP. I am sure it helps.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



100%. One thing I noticed is that when I sit behind the projector at my bar behind the couch the thing is almost silent. When I sit directly below it and slightly in front it becomes a lot more noticeable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

When new I thought it was big improvement over my older 5040. With over 175hr on the lamp it is even better.Mine is over my head on a stand and the only thing i notice is hot air when i stand up. Epson really improved the fan section as the older unit would just ramp up for no reason.


----------



## Musty Hustla

covsound1 said:


> When new I thought it was big improvement over my older 5040. With over 175hr on the lamp it is even better.Mine is over my head on a stand and the only thing i notice is hot air when i stand up. Epson really improved the fan section as the older unit would just ramp up for no reason.


My projector is over my head in a low ceiling room and I’m very comfortable. My room is about 10F cooler than the main level the house throughout the year, so I’m sure that helps. I’m waiting to see how the summer unfolds and when I have visitors.


----------



## DaGamePimp

noob00224 said:


> I don't think the image is done in post processing, it was real time, this is the page where it was tested:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...son-hc-3200-3800-revealed-3.html#post58718424
> @DaGamePimp did the tests.


Correct, that's a real time head-to-head capture with half of each lens blocked (no additional processing/blending was done).

- Jason


----------



## fakerus

covsound1 said:


> When new I thought it was big improvement over my older 5040. With over 175hr on the lamp it is even better.Mine is over my head on a stand and the only thing i notice is hot air when i stand up. Epson really improved the fan section as the older unit would just ramp up for no reason.



So it gets quieter? I only have about 20 hours on mine. I still find it annoyingly loud on ECO at mlp. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Vitus4K

Can you calibrate to a 2.4 gamma with the P3 filter engaged on the 6050UB?


----------



## fakerus

Vitus4K said:


> Can you calibrate to a 2.4 gamma with the P3 filter engaged on the 6050UB?



Why wouldn’t you be able to? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Vitus4K

fakerus said:


> Why wouldn’t you be able to?



I don't know, I've never owned a projector.

I plan to use the Panasonic UB820 and send SDR2020, this requires a 2.4 gamma from the Epson.

Engaging the P3 filter is must to make use of the expanded color gamut, however, I'm quite concerned that the 6050UB drops to 1000-1100 lumens in High lamp with the filter.

JVC is 46% brighter, calibrated, with P3 filter engaged.


Epsons high brightness rating could be widely misleading for the unaware.

I think I'll consider the JVC.


----------



## ivanhoek

Vitus4K said:


> I don't know, I've never owned a projector.
> 
> I plan to use the Panasonic UB820 and send SDR2020, this requires a 2.4 gamma from the Epson.
> 
> Engaging the P3 filter is must to make use of the expanded color gamut, however, I'm quite concerned that the 6050UB drops to 1000-1100 lumens in High lamp with the filter.
> 
> JVC is 46% brighter, calibrated, with P3 filter engaged.
> 
> 
> Epsons high brightness rating could be widely misleading for the unaware.
> 
> I think I'll consider the JVC.



Yeah, if cost isn’t a consideration buy the more expensive, better projector. This should be obvious.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

fakerus said:


> So it gets quieter? I only have about 20 hours on mine. I still find it annoyingly loud on ECO at mlp.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes it does and run mine in middle mode.I use the iris depending on how much light is the room.As the lamp gets past 100 to 150hr you will notice colors and contrast and balance all come together.(note if you break in on eco mode stay their until lamp has at least 100hr)


----------



## skylarlove1999

Vitus4K said:


> I don't know, I've never owned a projector.
> 
> I plan to use the Panasonic UB820 and send SDR2020, this requires a 2.4 gamma from the Epson.
> 
> Engaging the P3 filter is must to make use of the expanded color gamut, however, I'm quite concerned that the 6050UB drops to 1000-1100 lumens in High lamp with the filter.
> 
> JVC is 46% brighter, calibrated, with P3 filter engaged.
> 
> 
> Epsons high brightness rating could be widely misleading for the unaware.
> 
> I think I'll consider the JVC.


Keep in mind the NX5 does not have a P3 filter, the NX7 does and you are correct the JVC is significantly brighter when the filter is in place compared to the Epson 5050/6050. The NX7 only loses between 10-15% with the filter in place the Epson loses closer to 50% percent with filter in place. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Vitus4K

ivanhoek said:


> Yeah, if cost isn’t a consideration buy the more expensive, better projector. This should be obvious.


The 6050UB retails for $3,999 in the US, in Sweden though, where I live, it retails for $2,999.

I can get the JVC RS540/X790R/X7900 for $3,999, same price as the 6050UB retails for in the US.

Now, I don't know what the X790R retails for in the US, but I take it it's more expensive than the Epson, that's not the case here in Sweden.


----------



## ivanhoek

Vitus4K said:


> The 6050UB retails for $3,999 in the US, in Sweden though, where I live, it retails for $2,999.
> 
> I can get the JVC RS540/X790R/X7900 for $3,999, same price as the 6050UB retails for in the US.
> 
> Now, I don't know what the X790R retails for in the US, but I take it it's more expensive than the Epson, that's not the case here in Sweden.



I’m not familiar with that JVC model. Is that an earlier one than the current generation JVCs? 

Most people have been comparing the current generation JVCs.

Sounds like you should get that one if it’s truly the same price and you will be happier.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Vitus4K

ivanhoek said:


> I’m not familiar with that JVC model. Is that an earlier one than the current generation JVCs?
> 
> Most people have been comparing the current generation JVCs.
> 
> Sounds like you should get that one if it’s truly the same price and you will be happier.



I don't want to link the JVC in this thread as it's meant for Epson.

You should find the projector by the names I wrote in my previous post.

And yes, it's the previous JVC generation, it's still pricier than the Epson here, but comparing to your US prices it's a no brainer, basically.


----------



## covsound1

Vitus4K said:


> I don't know, I've never owned a projector.
> 
> I plan to use the Panasonic UB820 and send SDR2020, this requires a 2.4 gamma from the Epson.
> 
> Engaging the P3 filter is must to make use of the expanded color gamut, however, I'm quite concerned that the 6050UB drops to 1000-1100 lumens in High lamp with the filter.
> 
> JVC is 46% brighter, calibrated, with P3 filter engaged.
> 
> 
> Epsons high brightness rating could be widely misleading for the unaware.
> 
> I think I'll consider the JVC.


Yes you can do 2.4 gama with p3 filter in normal or expanded edit.And i believe i am getting 1000 plus lumens with no problem in middle mode and that is just streaming. 1000 lumens is a lot light and it really comes/ down to how you control that light/ not long ago 600 lumens was a light canon. You mention running sdr2020 i will give that a shot and see if i like it as for now i am really amazed what the 5050 does just streaming hdr.


----------



## Vitus4K

covsound1 said:


> Yes you can do 2.4 gama with p3 filter in normal or expanded edit.And i believe i am getting 1000 plus lumens with no problem in middle mode and that is just streaming. 1000 lumens is a lot light and it really comes/ down to how you control that light/ not long ago 600 lumens was a light canon. You mention running sdr2020 i will give that a shot and see if i like it as for now i am really amazed what the 5050 does just streaming hdr.


Thanks for chiming in, yes, I'm a bit lost in this lumen war.

I'm at a very long throw, 20 feet, don't really know how much light I need, do you know a good place to start calculating that?


----------



## noob00224

Vitus4K said:


> Thanks for chiming in, yes, I'm a bit lost in this lumen war.
> 
> I'm at a very long throw, 20 feet, don't really know how much light I need, do you know a good place to start calculating that?


Use this calculator:

https://webprojectorcalculator.com/

Generally speaking 10-15fL is required for SDR, and as much as possible for HDR.


----------



## covsound1

noob00224 said:


> Use this calculator:
> 
> https://webprojectorcalculator.com/
> 
> Generally speaking 10-15fL is required for SDR, and as much as possible for HDR.


I am at about 16.5 feet. I tried 18 feet and at was still all good. What i was really trying to say the 5050/6050 work well above its pay grade. I to looked at the jvc x5 but fot that kind of money the x7 made the most since for me because of the color filter.With the epson you really have two projectors in one package.


----------



## Vitus4K

noob00224 said:


> Use this calculator:
> 
> https://webprojectorcalculator.com/



Seems like I cannot achieve my long throw when selecting 2.40:1 (Lens Memory) in Aspect Ratio.


16:9 allows me to go far beyond my throw, but then the brightness calculation must be off as 2.40:1 consumes less light.




Should I just subtract the percentage difference in active pixels?


----------



## noob00224

Vitus4K said:


> Seems like I cannot achieve my long throw when selecting 2.40:1 (Lens Memory) in Aspect Ratio.
> 
> 
> 16:9 allows me to go far beyond my throw, but then the brightness calculation must be off as 2.40:1 consumes less light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I just subtract the percentage difference in active pixels?


Unless you're using a anamorphic lens, the format is always 16:9. There is no 2.40:1 aspect ratio. If you have a 2.40:1 screen the zoom is used to fit the 2.40:1 movie to the screen. There will be black bars on the top and bottom that will fall outside the screen.

Just calculate with the diagonal of the 16:9 screen that the 2.40:1 fits into. The width of the screen is the same.

For example an 141.6" diagonal screen in 2.40:1 format fits in an 150" 16:9 format.
https://www.draperinc.com/projectionscreens/customsizecalculator.aspx
http://screen-size.info/


----------



## Vitus4K

noob00224 said:


> Unless you're using a anamorphic lens, the format is always 16:9. There is no 2.40:1 aspect ratio. If you have a 2.40:1 screen the zoom is used to fit the 2.40:1 movie to the screen. There will be black bars on the top and bottom that will fall outside the screen.
> 
> Just calculate with the diagonal of the 16:9 screen that the 2.40:1 fits into. The width of the screen is the same.
> 
> For example an 141.6" diagonal screen in 2.40:1 format fits in an 150" 16:9 format.
> https://www.draperinc.com/projectionscreens/customsizecalculator.aspx
> http://screen-size.info/


Yes, of course.

But the calculator you linked calculates the brightness given the fact that the full 16:9 panel is used.

With my 2.40:1 screen I would be using 26% less pixels, that would translate to a 26% lower final brightness rating than the website calculates and presents.

Am I not right?


----------



## ivanhoek

Vitus4K said:


> Yes, of course.
> 
> But the calculator you linked calculates the brightness given the fact that the full 16:9 panel is used.
> 
> With my 2.40:1 screen I would be using 26% less pixels, that would translate to a 26% lower final brightness rating than the website calculates and presents.
> 
> Am I not right?



Yes, and since you already calculated a 26% hit, you have your final number.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Vitus4K

ivanhoek said:


> Yes, and since you already calculated a 26% hit, you have your final number.


Lovely.


----------



## Vitus4K

ivanhoek said:


> Yes, and since you already calculated a 26% hit, you have your final number.


I would still have to add the brightness loss into the equation for throwing the P3 filter into the light path, yes?


----------



## ivanhoek

Vitus4K said:


> I would still have to add the brightness loss into the equation for throwing the P3 filter into the light path, yes?



If you wish to use the filter, yes. And then you have to add the screen gain and make some assumptions. You don’t get an exact number until you actually measure a specific unit. 

There’s variation in bulbs and projectors and then there is the natural change in brightness with bulb life etc


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Vitus4K

ivanhoek said:


> If you wish to use the filter, yes. And then you have to add the screen gain and make some assumptions. You don’t get an exact number until you actually measure a specific unit.
> 
> There’s variation in bulbs and projectors and then there is the natural change in brightness with bulb life etc.



That's given, both the JVC and the Epson come out real close calibrated, 100 lumen difference.

Epson takes a massive hit at 40% with the filter added, this is where I think the JVC is stronger, coming out better in the end, I just need to find a number on the JVC.


----------



## ivanhoek

Vitus4K said:


> That's given, both the JVC and the Epson come out real close calibrated, 100 lumen difference.
> 
> Epson takes a massive hit at 40% with the filter added, this is where I think the JVC is stronger, coming out better in the end, I just need to find a number on the JVC.



The JVC is a better projector. It’s also more expensive (although your local price may be different) and more expensive to operate - at least here the bulbs are more expensive on the JVC side.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

HTX^2steve said:


> I am using the SSG-5100GB and works great!


I've got some 5150s and some 3050s. All work great. 

Do you know of any way to force the projector into 3D mode? When I feed 3D from my UHD disc player, the projector immediately goes into 3D mode. 

But when I try most titles from my network via nVidia Shield, the projector isn't recognizing the 3D signal. I thought it might have been the glasses not being paired or batteries being dead, but I went back to the disc player and everything is fine.


----------



## ShadowBoy

Vitus4K said:


> The 6050UB retails for $3,999 in the US, in Sweden though, where I live, it retails for $2,999.
> 
> I can get the JVC RS540/X790R/X7900 for $3,999, same price as the 6050UB retails for in the US.
> 
> Now, I don't know what the X790R retails for in the US, but I take it it's more expensive than the Epson, that's not the case here in Sweden.


I'm amazed that you can even find a JVC 540. Here in Australia there are none to be found new or even used.


----------



## Dilema

I am rewriting what I said in another threat:
I now own both Epson 6050 and JVC from previous generation x790r. Believe this one and nx5 have same lamp. 

Have circa 900 hours on Epson and 200 hours on JVC. 
I have to say these are very comparable machines. Each has its pluses. 
In my HT Media room with 150 inch screen which is not 100% perfect (white celling besides very good) both perform similar. 
Epson is sharper what matters less if at all for movies but it matters for gaming. There is no way to make JVC as sharp. Epson sharpness enhancement feature is brilliant and something like that is missing in JVC. 
Epson is quieter both fan and eshift. It maneuverers the fan speed down once movie playback starts. This is when high lamp and dynamics iris are engaged. 
Epson is a bit brighter despite much older lamp. It is brighter projector but not by far. 
Epson makes handshake quicker 
Epson has more modern remote control functions which enable operating whole system with its remote. Epson remote is also better. Epson has no issues with rgb 8bit like JVC. 
Epson chasis makes better impression quality wise. 
On Epson on some scenes it is visible it has better ANSI contrast.

JVC has very good frame interpolation which at low setting does not introduce soap opera. And it works very good with 4K resolution. 
JVC is better in dark scenes due to better contrast. 
JVC handles HDR slightly better. But requires knowledge and some time to make correct settings. But effect after is better. The initial brightness disadvantage is a matter of settings and you can get quite a lot brightness from it. The dynamics of high dynamic range are much better that what can be achieved ion Epson

JVC has bit richer colours because I use it with filter both for SDR and HDR. Epson I could use without filter only but the performance was still very good. With filter in place the Epson picture was dim at my large screen. 

What I miss most on JVC vs Epson is actually sharpness and quieter operation on high lamp mode when using HDR. 

What I would miss most on Epson is move resolution (when cmd set to low) contrast blacks and hdr dynamics I believe.


----------



## Dilema

ShadowBoy said:


> Vitus4K said:
> 
> 
> 
> The 6050UB retails for $3,999 in the US, in Sweden though, where I live, it retails for $2,999.
> 
> I can get the JVC RS540/X790R/X7900 for $3,999, same price as the 6050UB retails for in the US.
> 
> Now, I don't know what the X790R retails for in the US, but I take it it's more expensive than the Epson, that's not the case here in Sweden.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm amazed that you can even find a JVC 540. Here in Australia there are none to be found new or even used.
Click to expand...

JVC restarted production of RS540 till September.


----------



## Luminated67

Vitus4K said:


> The 6050UB retails for $3,999 in the US, in Sweden though, where I live, it retails for $2,999.
> 
> I can get the JVC RS540/X790R/X7900 for $3,999, same price as the 6050UB retails for in the US.
> 
> Now, I don't know what the X790R retails for in the US, but I take it it's more expensive than the Epson, that's not the case here in Sweden.


I’ve yet to see the x7900 but I did see the x5900 and was surprised to find that in my opinion the Epson threw a sharper image, likewise I wasn’t blown away by how much better it’s blacks were, better yes but didn’t appear to be night and day better and certainly not as how the numbers would suggest and this was in a similar room to my own.

Out of the box I don’t think the x7900 handles HDR as well as the Epson, you’ll need to go for custom curves and tweak these to suit your individual conditions but once you have done this it will be as good by all accounts. 

P.S. Make sure you buy from a main dealer to guarantee your warranty if you do jump for the JVC as it is last years model.


----------



## Dilema

You can’t tweak custom curves. They are just set and you can’t adjust them. 
And I find hdr better using built in curve just tweaked gamma and other settings. Custom curves are overhyped. Unfortunately Epson does not have enough dynamic in the picture for best hdr. Even MadVr is not able to help with that. JVC has it.


----------



## Luminated67

Dilema said:


> You can’t tweak custom curves. They are just set and you can’t adjust them.
> And I find hdr better using built in curve just tweaked gamma and other settings.


That’s what I meant.



Dilema said:


> Custom curves are overhyped.


Never used them myself so can’t comment, they do seem to be popular among the older machines.



Dilema said:


> Unfortunately Epson does not have enough dynamic in the picture for best hdr. Even MadVr is not able to help with that. JVC has it.


Luckily the Epson 5050/6050 seems to handle HDR rather well as is, as for MadVR others might disagree with you that the Epson doesn’t benefit from it.


----------



## Dilema

Epson actually benefit from Madvr. Quite a lot. But what I meant is it will not be able to perform hdr as JVC even if you do use Madvr instead of built in hdr slider. This is my conclusion based on my months of experience with both.

JVC basically will reveal more contrast in darker scenes. There will be more details and colour in these. On other end JVC will have much much stronger highlights. Epson is not capable to present them as strong. Thus overall HDR performance is basically better on JVC and this is one of 3 main advantages of this model versus Epson. Others are motion handling and contrast with its better black floor. In my setup, which is not bad but not perfect neither, in dark scenes on Epson I could see the dark grey bars above and below screen. On JVC it is really hard to notice or invisible on same scenes. This is the black floor difference.


----------



## Luminated67

Dilema said:


> Epson actually benefit from Madvr. Quite a lot. But what I meant is it will not be able to perform hdr as JVC even if you do use Madvr instead of built in hdr slider. This is my conclusion based on my months of experience with both.
> 
> JVC basically will reveal more contrast in darker scenes. There will be more details and colour in these. On other end JVC will have much much stronger highlights. Epson is not capable to present them as strong. Thus overall HDR performance is basically better on JVC and this is one of 3 main advantages of this model versus Epson. Others are motion handling and contrast with its better black floor. In my setup, which is not bad but not perfect neither, in dark scenes on Epson I could see the dark grey bars above and below screen. On JVC it is really hard to notice or invisible on same scenes. This is the black floor difference.


No doubt the x7900 is a definite step up from even the model below it which again is a step up from the Epson though in isolation it surprised me that I didn’t feel that short changed having the Epson compared to the JVC x5900. 

Surprisingly my black bars look very dark grey, don’t know why I’m achieving such a good result. I did take a photo and adjusted to black levels to mimic what I actual look in my room. You would need to go into a dark room on either your phone or PC to see the bars but they are there once you do this. I can tell you that you are seeing things in this images that I can’t see in real life like the sides of my main speakers or the Bluray cases sitting on the ground, plus you will notice the image is washed out to achieve this. 

Like I say I am more than impressed by my Epson.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmi8rla6xpkhz2t/Photo 01-01-2020, 19 48 55.jpg?dl=0

Here’s the original image

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5u04ziipbxab5hq/Photo 12-04-2020, 11 33 42.jpg?dl=0

Currently debating switching to a 21:9 screen but @MississippiMan says that with his paint I’ll be able to achieve close on JVC levels of blacks by just spraying my existing screen which might be the better alternative.


----------



## Dilema

Yes I know what you are talking here. I have same. With JVC you would not see bars at all in your setup. 

Anyways both are great projectors. Each have advantages over other. 

I would say for gaming better to get Epson for movies better to get JVC. Bot both are handling movies and games very well.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Dilema said:


> Epson actually benefit from Madvr. Quite a lot. But what I meant is it will not be able to perform hdr as JVC even if you do use Madvr instead of built in hdr slider. This is my conclusion based on my months of experience with both.
> 
> JVC basically will reveal more contrast in darker scenes. There will be more details and colour in these. On other end JVC will have much much stronger highlights. Epson is not capable to present them as strong. Thus overall HDR performance is basically better on JVC and this is one of 3 main advantages of this model versus Epson. Others are motion handling and contrast with its better black floor. In my setup, which is not bad but not perfect neither, in dark scenes on Epson I could see the dark grey bars above and below screen. On JVC it is really hard to notice or invisible on same scenes. This is the black floor difference.


I would just like to point out that if I went into a JVC owners thread and started talking about another projector being better than their beloved JVC projectors, I would be tarred and feathered. Probably reported to a moderator as well. But here I see a very civil debate carried on whenever this happens. I find Epson owners to be very value minded individuals who aren't threatened by another projector performing better because Epson owners are all about the price performance ratio. Epson still is the winner in that category in most countries. Thank you for conducting yourself so courteously here in the Epson 5050/6050 owners thread. Good luck with whichever projector you choose. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dilema

Truth. JVC owners tend to believe their machines are best and best in all aspects. Thus Hype. I have both and believe Epson is great projector. I used mine for close a year and it’s really great better in many areas than JVC and much more modern machine. I just try to be objective since I didn’t see any objective opinions from a movie fun who had enough time to know and experience both really in depth. To do that you have to own machines for some weeks at least and watch many movies on them to get a good overview.


----------



## MississippiMan

Luminated67 said:


> Currently debating switching to a 21:9 screen but @*MississippiMan* says that with his paint I’ll be able to achieve close on JVC levels of blacks by just spraying my existing screen which might be the better alternative.



Sure ya will and sure ya would!


Check out *Malodium's* 5050ub screen shots with his "very light Grey hued" Black Flame screen *here.*


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> No doubt the x7900 is a definite step up from even the model below it which again is a step up from the Epson though in isolation it surprised me that I didn’t feel that short changed having the Epson compared to the JVC x5900.
> 
> 
> 
> Surprisingly my black bars look very dark grey, don’t know why I’m achieving such a good result. I did take a photo and adjusted to black levels to mimic what I actual look in my room. You would need to go into a dark room on either your phone or PC to see the bars but they are there once you do this. I can tell you that you are seeing things in this images that I can’t see in real life like the sides of my main speakers or the Bluray cases sitting on the ground, plus you will notice the image is washed out to achieve this.
> 
> 
> 
> Like I say I am more than impressed by my Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmi8rla6xpkhz2t/Photo 01-01-2020, 19 48 55.jpg?dl=0
> 
> 
> 
> Here’s the original image
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5u04ziipbxab5hq/Photo 12-04-2020, 11 33 42.jpg?dl=0
> 
> 
> 
> Currently debating switching to a 21:9 screen but @MississippiMan says that with his paint I’ll be able to achieve close on JVC levels of blacks by just spraying my existing screen which might be the better alternative.[/quote @Luminated67, I have a Black Flame Interstellar sprayed screen that MM helped me out with. These are the blacks you can expect. They are very impressive on that screen, if you ask me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Dilema said:


> Truth. JVC owners tend to believe their machines are best and best in all aspects. Thus Hype. I have both and believe Epson is great projector. I used mine for close a year and it’s really great better in many areas than JVC and much more modern machine. I just try to be objective since I didn’t see any objective opinions from a movie fun who had enough time to know and experience both really in depth. To do that you have to own machines for some weeks at least and watch many movies on them to get a good overview.


I think the difference between your typical JVC owner and is lot over here is their level of enthusiasm towards the hobby almost approaches obsessive. LOL

We all know JVC is better and frankly the amount of times I have said this over there is probably the only reason I don’t get tarred and feathered but to achieve this level of performance comes at a significant price hike which not everyone is either in the position to afford or willing to pay. I am fortunate enough to have the funds to buy at JVC N-series but I just can’t justify the expense based on my usage, which I think is the sensible decision because it’s not like the Epson is a million miles away.

I went to a home of a guy a mate knows whom has an X5900 in very similar room conditions to my own, curiosity got the better of me and I went to have a look, it was only 20-25 minutes from my place so after viewing I raced home and put the same disc into my setup and watched the same stuff to see the difference, to say I was extremely happy afterwards would be an understatement because I didn’t feel it’s blacks were hugely different and if anything the Epson looked sharper. I’m sure side by side the superior blacks would have been more noticeable but in isolation the Epson is seriously impressive.


----------



## Dilema

I agree with you. You would see the more obvious difference if compared really dark movie. Then JVC shines. But not every movie have dark scenes with lots of detail within them. 

Also JVC handles montion better and if you notice that when camera makes fast pans the background becomes very blurry then JVC has a processor which handles that very well without any opera effect. Other things are nuances you can’t observe without longer study.


----------



## Vitus4K

I should be the one apologizing for bringing the JVC into this thread.

I find myself torn having to decide between the Epson and the JVC, should of started my own thread, really.

I see amazing price/performance ratio in the Epson, very much like the lot of you already pointed out, and for that I could very well go ahead and buy two!

But, black floor has me worried, and my letterboxes going outside my screen need to be black, and not dark gray, whether or not my environment can reflect this is another question.


The brightness out of the Epson is really intriguing, however the brightness drop from adding the P3 filter, not so much.

I am very much leaning into getting the Panny UB820, making both HDR/SDR2020 an option, but mostly leaning towards calibrating the JVC to such extent where as much of REC.2020 is possible without adding the filter.

This would yield a brighter picture, closing in on the Epson, but with expanded colors, I think somewhere 90%ish percent of P3 is possible without the filter on the JVC.

Enough about JVC, I wish I could of seen these side by side and made my own evaluations, especially in my own environment.

Maybe I'll buy both and compare, send one back!


----------



## noob00224

Vitus4K said:


> That's given, both the JVC and the Epson come out real close calibrated, 100 lumen difference.
> 
> Epson takes a massive hit at 40% with the filter added, this is where I think the JVC is stronger, coming out better in the end, I just need to find a number on the JVC.


Unless you have a small screen, adding the filter is unusable. Both projectors hit around 1000 lumens with the filter (with new lamps) in lamp modes that are not High. High lamp can be very noisy, unless the projector is in another room/hush box.

Not only do lamps age but with both models going from 100% zoom (closest to the screen) to 0% zoom (furthest) there is ~27% brightness loss. The 1000 lumens figure is measured with 100% zoom.

Without the filter the Epson can deliver ~87% of DCI P3, and NX series ~90%. 

For a screen over 100" brightness should be prioritized. A white positive gain screen or an anamorphic lens will help, but that is more cost.


----------



## Vitus4K

noob00224 said:


> Unless you have a small screen, adding the filter is unusable. Both projectors hit around 1000 lumens with the filter (with new lamps) in lamp modes that are not High. High lamp can be very noisy, unless the projector is in another room/hush box.
> 
> Not only do lamps age but with both models going from 100% zoom (closest to the screen) to 0% zoom (furthest) there is ~27% brightness loss. The 1000 lumens figure is measured with 100% zoom.
> 
> Without the filter the Epson can deliver ~87% of DCI P3, and NX series ~90%.
> 
> For a screen over 100" brightness should be prioritized. A white positive gain screen or an anamorphic lens will help, but that is more cost.



I'm 118" 2.40:1.

Basically it's all about the black floor and contrast, motion handling and dynamic range then, out of the two.

I'm at 1.45X zoom (telephoto) with the JVC, adding up to around 14% brightness loss, add to that a 26% loss going from 16:9 to 2.40:1.

Got some solid numbers to go on now, thanks a lot!


----------



## skylarlove1999

noob00224 said:


> Unless you have a small screen, adding the filter is unusable. Both projectors hit around 1000 lumens with the filter (with new lamps) in lamp modes that are not High. High lamp can be very noisy, unless the projector is in another room/hush box.
> 
> Not only do lamps age but with both models going from 100% zoom (closest to the screen) to 0% zoom (furthest) there is ~27% brightness loss. The 1000 lumens figure is measured with 100% zoom.
> 
> Without the filter the Epson can deliver ~87% of DCI P3, and NX series ~90%.
> 
> For a screen over 100" brightness should be prioritized. A white positive gain screen or an anamorphic lens will help, but that is more cost.


The blanket statement that the filters are unusable unless you have a small screen is a bit misleading. As as you very well know lighting, throw distance, and room conditions all Impact what you see on the screen. Many people can and do use high lamp mode and get a great HDR image using the filters. I do appreciate your posts they are informative many times and have a great amount of detail and factual useful information. You have to be careful in stating opinions as fact as many people probably see your many posts and find you quite credible as do I and might believe some of your opinions as facts. Once again projector noise based upon lamp modes is a very subjective point and is based upon where the projector is in relation to the viewers and how they perceived the noise. Projector noise is generally at a higher pitch and as you get older that higher pitch is not heard as well as when you were younger it's just the result of Aging so you have to factor that in as well. In that respect slight hearing loss of higher frequencies helps when it comes to projector noise.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Vitus4K

Brb, damaging my hearing!


----------



## Luminated67

Here’s an image from a mate’s N5 which doesn’t have the filter along side my 9400 with the filter, both are professionally calibrated and as you can see there’s a greater variation in greens with the Epson simply because it has the filter to allow it to capture a fuller range.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j31vayrqwckqyit/Photo 16-01-2020, 06 34 14.jpg?dl=0
JVC N5

https://www.dropbox.com/s/br4t5agu16emz5h/Photo 16-01-2020, 06 34 22.jpg?dl=0
Epson 9400

There’s no denying the JVC is the better image without any of the noise present on the Epson but at two and a half times the price you’d expect it to be better, I might add both images are zoomed in and at normal viewing none of this noise is noticeable.

My zoom is roughly about 90-93% so lots of light, in fact on my 100” I don’t really need to use anything beyond low lamp mode with HDR and wide open iris. Gordon (the pro that calibrated mine) gave me two HDR setups, one with and one without the filter, frankly the one without would cut the eyes out of you after 10 minutes it’s so bright. There’s a world of difference watching HDR on a big TV in a normal room and watching the same thing in a huge screen in complete darkness.


----------



## noob00224

skylarlove1999 said:


> The blanket statement that the filters are unusable unless you have a small screen is a bit misleading. As as you very well know lighting, throw distance, and room conditions all Impact what you see on the screen. Many people can and do use high lamp mode and get a great HDR image using the filters. I do appreciate your posts they are informative many times and have a great amount of detail and factual useful information. You have to be careful in stating opinions as fact as many people probably see your many posts and find you quite credible as do I and might believe some of your opinions as facts. Once again projector noise based upon lamp modes is a very subjective point and is based upon where the projector is in relation to the viewers and how they perceived the noise. Projector noise is generally at a higher pitch and as you get older that higher pitch is not heard as well as when you were younger it's just the result of Aging so you have to factor that in as well. In that respect slight hearing loss of higher frequencies helps when it comes to projector noise.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Not everything is set in stone of course, and there are people with large screens and happy with the image. It's a general opinion.

Some time ago did some numbers on another thread for the NX series and came to the conclusion that for the 21fL I've seen recommended for HDR on the NX series, with a 1.0 gain screen, with 100% zoom, in a treated room, the screen should not be over 100". Of course there are variations in the room itself, projector and preference. 
With the Epson I'm not sure what the minimum fL would be, but I assume it's higher than the JVC. Lamp brightness decrease and zoom % have to be added to the calculation.

There may be people that are happy with lower brightness levels, but others may not. For HDR having extra brightness is more important than SDR.




Vitus4K said:


> I'm 118" 2.40:1.
> 
> Basically it's all about the black floor and contrast, motion handling and dynamic range then, out of the two.
> 
> I'm at 1.45X zoom (telephoto) with the JVC, adding up to around 14% brightness loss, add to that a 26% loss going from 16:9 to 2.40:1.
> 
> Got some solid numbers to go on now, thanks a lot!



As noted above, there is some room for preference when it comes to how bright the screen should, be, but HDR can use as much brightness as possible.

All these calculations are estimates, real life results could be very different. I got 30% less brightness then I should have, only after measuring it with a light meter. That's why I was suggesting to aim for higher brightness. With an 118" 2.40:1 screen (I assume 1.0 gain?) and ~14% light loss you might want to look into ways of increasing the brightness.


----------



## MississippiMan

Luminated67 said:


> I went to a home of a guy a mate knows whom has an X5900 in very similar room conditions to my own, curiosity got the better of me and I went to have a look, it was only 20-25 minutes from my place so after viewing I raced home and put the same disc into my setup and watched the same stuff to see the difference, to say I was extremely happy afterwards would be an understatement because I didn’t feel it’s blacks were hugely different and if anything the Epson looked sharper. I’m sure side by side the superior blacks would have been more noticeable but in isolation the Epson is seriously impressive.



Well then....a lot pf people who know MississippiMan know I swing both ways.......projector-wise.


Epson & JVC... 'dems my boys!



After 25 years of building "quasi-conventional" TV/Media rooms......and being focused on multi-channel Audio and custom built-in RPTVs, I grew weary of all the considerations that enclosing a 70" RPTV in a False Wall entailed...so when the In-Focus X1 popped into the market I was willing to trade the higher resolution and better contrast of the 60" & 70" Pioneer CRT and Sony DLP RPTVs for 100"-110" of 800x600 images on a screen / wall . That didn't last long....I missed 720p


But through it all, I was dealing with contrast ratios that ranged from 500:1 on the IF-X1 to 6,000:1 on the Sanyo Z4...and it was real obvious that improving the perceived contrast of a projector by making the screen enhance it's performance made sense. Even by 2007, with 1000 lumen being an exceptionally bright PJ (Z4), it again was obvious that if you had the lumen output, and a proper surface that would attenuate blacks without crushing detail or Color, some great things were going to happen. 



With such "screen coatings" at my disposal, I graduated up to the Epson 8350 and morphed into doing 140"- 160"+ screens as a matter of course, while also being able to have those screen be viewed in modest ambient light. With just 2000 lumen and 50K:1 Contrast. Not the 5050's *2600* lumen and 1M:1 Dynamic CR.


But Image quality aside....in both cases, how much of the projector's light over-spill into the masked Format areas can been seen has always been a sore point. Leading to many erstwhile solutions to masking unused Format areas. Not many were aware that the projection surface itself might serve that purpose. C'ept me....and those have gone there, done that.



My two projector choices since 2010 have been Epson and JVC. Until the 5040 rolled in,,JVC had a lock on my most effusive praise and recommendation;;.but the 5040 was no slouch as a affordable fall back choice. Hated the 18 gb-issue and piss poor HDR though. But I LOVED the sharpness and lumen output! Now comes the 5050 and it's right back up there. I still and will for some time cherish the JVC x790r / 990r 's I have known....( and the x790r just went back into production...) and to a lessor extent the NX7 andNX9's. (...the Jury is still out on the LX-NZ3B...)


But the 5050ub .....? It's a real winner.


There have been enough members who have reviewer the Black Flame's ability to virtually dispense with Format Bars,so I won't even mention it here. Did I? Ok...it slipped out.


----------



## covsound1

Vitus4K said:


> I should be the one apologizing for bringing the JVC into this thread.
> 
> I find myself torn having to decide between the Epson and the JVC, should of started my own thread, really.
> 
> I see amazing price/performance ratio in the Epson, very much like the lot of you already pointed out, and for that I could very well go ahead and buy two!
> 
> But, black floor has me worried, and my letterboxes going outside my screen need to be black, and not dark gray, whether or not my environment can reflect this is another question.
> 
> 
> The brightness out of the Epson is really intriguing, however the brightness drop from adding the P3 filter, not so much.
> 
> I am very much leaning into getting the Panny UB820, making both HDR/SDR2020 an option, but mostly leaning towards calibrating the JVC to such extent where as much of REC.2020 is possible without adding the filter.
> 
> This would yield a brighter picture, closing in on the Epson, but with expanded colors, I think somewhere 90%ish percent of P3 is possible without the filter on the JVC.
> 
> Enough about JVC, I wish I could of seen these side by side and made my own evaluations, especially in my own environment.
> 
> Maybe I'll buy both and compare, send one back!


by all means do not apologize. the only path to wisdom is to ask when you dont know. show me one projector that does not cast a shadow when you put your hand in front or degrades it self from its own light source. some people are plug and play and others will push to get more and the ones that push sometimes share! if that didnt happen what would be the need for a forum.


----------



## Vitus4K

noob00224 said:


> All these calculations are estimates, real life results could be very different. I got 30% less brightness then I should have, only after measuring it with a light meter. That's why I was suggesting to aim for higher brightness. With an 118" 2.40:1 screen (I assume 1.0 gain?) and ~14% light loss you might want to look into ways of increasing the brightness.



Yes, these are my concerns as well, I actually ordered 10 different screen samples ranging from 0.9 to 1.4 gain, according to the manufacturers.

A light meter is a necessity to measure them up and see their real performance, hence why the most lumen possible might be the key to success.

My long throw of 20 feet does not help brightness one bit, I would have to look at 1.2 gain at a minimum for HDR I would assume.

SDR2020 with Epson 6050UB is quite appealing after all.


----------



## noob00224

Vitus4K said:


> Yes, these are my concerns as well, I actually ordered 10 different screen samples ranging from 0.9 to 1.4 gain, according to the manufacturers.
> 
> A light meter is a necessity to measure them up and see their real performance, hence why the most lumen possible might be the key to success.
> 
> My long throw of 20 feet does not help brightness one bit, I would have to look at 1.2 gain at a minimum for HDR I would assume.
> 
> SDR2020 with Epson 6050UB is quite appealing after all.


Many screen specification are not accurate. The best that you can get is the ST130 G4 which has an actual gain of 1.3. It's a white screen. 

I don't know what kind of samples you got, but if the base is grey then it's an ALR screen, which means that the projector should be at least 1.9x throw ratio away. For that screen that would be at least 18'. 
Some info on screen gain:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/1499693-silver-ticket-screen-59.html#post58823388
https://www.accucalav.com/wp-content/uploads/accucal_front_projection_screen_report.pdf
The Cinegrey 3D is 0.7, Cinegrey 5D is 1.0.


Light meters can be inaccurate as well:



coderguy said:


> It's not very easy to measure light with any calibration meter.
> 
> Here is the cheapest that is somewhat decent (sometimes), but I'm sure the variance is high and it may not be accurate.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/LX-1010B-D...402775?hash=item286774d8d7:g:Mi4AAOSwQqJbm10w
> 
> Generally, the above one is within 10% to 15%, but QC could vary and error could be higher.
> Used Extechs on Ebay are usually accurate within 5% to 10%.
> 
> A Sekonic with a cert is accurate within 5%, a Minolta T10 within about 2% to 4%.


----------



## Vitus4K

noob00224 said:


> The Cinegrey 3D is 0.7, Cinegrey 5D is 1.0.


Thanks for sharing your information.


I ordered those two as they are offered in 'Designers Cut', I could order the fabric only and get away quite cheaply.

Also ordered the white pack and the gray pack from Carlofet, I'm looking to build my own frame.


----------



## covsound1

Vitus4K said:


> Thanks for sharing your information.
> 
> 
> I ordered those two as they are offered in 'Designers Cut', I could order the fabric only and get away quite cheaply.
> 
> Also ordered the white pack and the gray pack from Carlofet, I'm looking to build my own frame.


I have the designers cut 3d that has been setting for all most a year now. i made my own 16.9 frame and have been using the hp 2.8. looking at doing a 23.1 But that would mean moving my 7 foot towers into another room. That black flame paint looks really good too as a option.


----------



## Vitus4K

covsound1 said:


> I have the designers cut 3d that has been setting for all most a year now. i made my own 16.9 frame and have been using the hp 2.8. looking at doing a 23.1 But that would mean moving my 7 foot towers into another room. That black flame paint looks really good too as a option.



Sorry, I only understand half of what you're saying, less use of abbreviations please.

Also, what do you mean by 'setting'?

Is the fabric not fit for fight once tensioned?



hp 2.8?

23.1?


----------



## covsound1

Vitus4K said:


> Sorry, I only understand half of what you're saying, less use of abbreviations please.
> 
> Also, what do you mean by 'setting'?
> 
> Is the fabric not fit for fight once tensioned?
> 
> 
> 
> hp 2.8?
> 
> 23.1?


typo (sitting)? Hp 2.8 is a high contrast screen that is white with glass beeds for a positive gain output.23.1 wide format. sorry.


----------



## bobopich

I got some strange vertical blue line visible at black screen not related to source or cable problems, any suggestions or warranty issue ? 










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Vitus4K

covsound1 said:


> typo (sitting)? Hp 2.8 is a high contrast screen that is white with glass beeds for a positive gain output.23.1 wide format. sorry.


Right, I'm still not sure what you mean by 'sitting', you've had it installed for almost a year now?

My understanding is that you've had the fabric 'sitting' on the wall, letting it 'stretch/rest' or w.e, to grow fully ready for final use.

I feared the fabric will be a disappointment, I hope you understand my concern, thanks for explaining.




By 23.1 I take it you mean 2.35:1 or 2.37:1, not 2.40:1?

With the 3D, would you be using a 16:9 frame or that wider frame you were talking about?


----------



## covsound1

Vitus4K said:


> Right, I'm still not sure what you mean by 'sitting', you've had it installed for almost a year now?
> 
> My understanding is that you've had the fabric 'sitting' on the wall, letting it 'stretch/rest' or w.e, to grow fully ready for final use.
> 
> I feared the fabric will be a disappointment, I hope you understand my concern, thanks for explaining.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By 23.1 I take it you mean 2.35:1 or 2.37:1, not 2.40:1?
> 
> With the 3D, would you be using a 16:9 frame or that wider frame you were talking about?


Yes 3D wide frame 2:40:1. The screen i am using now is a high contrast fixed frame 16.9 110 inch. i would like to build a fixed frame 2:40 120 inch. I am not a fan of fabric.


----------



## Dishoom

Hello!


I've recently purchased an Epson 5050UB, and have some questions regarding my setup.


Projector: Epson 5050UB
Mounting Location: Ceiling mount using OmniMount PJT40; approx 8" down from ceiling

Distance from projector to wall: ~14ft
Projection wall dimension: 14'8"W x 8'11"H (176"W x 107"H)
AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H



I'm currently projecting on to the wall, but I anticipate purchasing a SilverTicket 135" 16:9 fixed screen, which has a viewable area of 117.5"W x 66"H. I marked the wall using masking tape to get an idea of the viewing area, but I'm not understanding why the Epson's test pattern is not filling in the area. If I adjust the zoom for the test pattern to fit 117.5"W, the total height is only 60.5"H...6 inches short. Why is that? Shouldn't the projector maintain 16:9 aspect ratio as you zoom in/out? 



I initially thought I had issue projecting sources played through my receiver, but being that the test pattern is sourced from the projector itself, it doesn't make sense to me. I apologize in advance if this is a really simple matter, but I'd really like to understand and address any issue before ordering a screen.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Dishoom said:


> Hello!
> 
> 
> I've recently purchased an Epson 5050UB, and have some questions regarding my setup.
> 
> 
> Projector: Epson 5050UB
> Mounting Location: Ceiling mount using OmniMount PJT40; approx 8" down from ceiling
> 
> Distance from projector to wall: ~14ft
> Projection wall dimension: 14'8"W x 8'11"H (176"W x 107"H)
> AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently projecting on to the wall, but I anticipate purchasing a SilverTicket 135" 16:9 fixed screen, which has a viewable area of 117.5"W x 66"H. I marked the wall using masking tape to get an idea of the viewing area, but I'm not understanding why the Epson's test pattern is not filling in the area. If I adjust the zoom for the test pattern to fit 117.5"W, the total height is only 60.5"H...6 inches short. Why is that? Shouldn't the projector maintain 16:9 aspect ratio as you zoom in/out?
> 
> 
> 
> I initially thought I had issue projecting sources played through my receiver, but being that the test pattern is sourced from the projector itself, it doesn't make sense to me. I apologize in advance if this is a really simple matter, but I'd really like to understand and address any issue before ordering a screen.


It should definitely maintain the aspect ratio as you zoom in and out. According to this throw distance calculator that I use quite often you should be able to achieve the image size you're looking for at your throw distance of 14 ft

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Dishoom said:


> Hello!
> 
> 
> I've recently purchased an Epson 5050UB, and have some questions regarding my setup.
> 
> 
> Projector: Epson 5050UB
> Mounting Location: Ceiling mount using OmniMount PJT40; approx 8" down from ceiling
> 
> Distance from projector to wall: ~14ft
> Projection wall dimension: 14'8"W x 8'11"H (176"W x 107"H)
> AVR: Denon AVR-X4400H
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently projecting on to the wall, but I anticipate purchasing a SilverTicket 135" 16:9 fixed screen, which has a viewable area of 117.5"W x 66"H. I marked the wall using masking tape to get an idea of the viewing area, but I'm not understanding why the Epson's test pattern is not filling in the area. If I adjust the zoom for the test pattern to fit 117.5"W, the total height is only 60.5"H...6 inches short. Why is that? Shouldn't the projector maintain 16:9 aspect ratio as you zoom in/out?
> 
> 
> 
> I initially thought I had issue projecting sources played through my receiver, but being that the test pattern is sourced from the projector itself, it doesn't make sense to me. I apologize in advance if this is a really simple matter, but I'd really like to understand and address any issue before ordering a screen.


Check your blanking panel menu to see if somehow either your top or bottom or both have been turned on. I can’t think of any other way that it wouldn’t be projecting a 16:9 image.


----------



## Dishoom

Luminated67 said:


> Check your blanking panel menu to see if somehow either your top or bottom or both have been turned on. I can’t think of any other way that it wouldn’t be projecting a 16:9 image.



I'm an idiot. Apparently, the keystone correction that I made when I initially installed the projector (2 months back) was throwing things off. After going into "Settings", I selected _Reset_ and now the test pattern is much larger, but obviously skewed. I'll have to play with the vertical shift, zoom, and keystone combinations to get it right. The projector mount is within a tray ceiling, so the projector has to be angled down somewhat to prevent the top of the image from getting cut off. The tray depth is 12", and the mount drops the projector down about 8" within the tray...I'm hoping that the settings will overcome this, otherwise I'll have to get an extension pipe.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Dishoom said:


> I'm an idiot. Apparently, the keystone correction that I made when I initially installed the projector (2 months back) was throwing things off. After going into "Settings", I selected _Reset_ and now the test pattern is much larger, but obviously skewed. I'll have to play with the vertical shift, zoom, and keystone combinations to get it right. The projector mount is within a tray ceiling, so the projector has to be angled down somewhat to prevent the top of the image from getting cut off. The tray depth is 12", and the mount drops the projector down about 8" within the tray...I'm hoping that the settings will overcome this, otherwise I'll have to get an extension pipe.


Image quality will be much better with an extension pipe. Well worth the investment and the hassle. Keystone correction is the worst thing for image quality it should really never be used

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Yosemite N. P.

*My ancient 5030UB is good enough for now*

While watching the Serenity BD and the Revenge BD today, I kept thinking to myself - who needs 4K resolution? Or even HDR10, HDR10+ or DV for more colors than this?

This was with a 159" Da-Lite High Power 2.8 gain screen, my ancient 6+ year old 5030UB, and a Darbee. Throw is 18'-3", view distance is 12'-0". 

The black bars, when playing the Revenge BD, weren't as black as they would have been with an OLED set, but they were very dark (I have a batcave). The colors weren't as vivid as the colors were on the 85" Sony X950G 4K set that I checked out at BB a few months ago, playing the demo loop. But they looked fine/very good.

I guess I've made up my mind not to buy an 85" 4K set this fall/winter - for I just now ordered a backup lamp for the 5030UB (this will be the 7th or 8th lamp that I've bought for the 5030UB over the years). 

I'll pass on the 5050UB this year. I'll wait for the 5060UB in 1-3 years. Hopefully, Epson will develop a dynamic tone mapping feature like the one that JVC has this year. By then, my 5030UB will surely have to be replaced - no dust blobs yet!

BTW:
I highly recommend:
1. A Darbee for 1080 if you don't have one already.
2. If your confined due to COVID-19, to pass the time, I recommend that you sign up for a plan at DVD/Netflix for movies that you haven't seen yet. We are on the 8 out plan. In 40 days, we have received 63 discs. It's great because the mailman drops the discs off right at our door and picks them up later. A win-win with COVID-19 out there.

If the movie isn't your cup of tea, and if your player is a Pany 110, 420, 820 (these are the ones that I have tested), you can set the fast forward control to the first step, and the disc will play for 96 minutes in only 60 minutes real time, with audio! This is what we do with movies that we find to be so-so, instead of hitting the eject button on the remote.


----------



## ivanhoek

Yosemite N. P. said:


> While watching the Serenity BD and the Revenge BD today, I kept thinking to myself - who needs 4K resolution? Or even HDR10, HDR10+ or DV for more colors than this?
> 
> This was with a 159" Da-Lite High Power 2.8 gain screen, my ancient 6+ year old 5030UB, and a Darbee. Throw is 18'-3", view distance is 12'-0".
> 
> The black bars, when playing the Revenge BD, weren't as black as they would have been with an OLED set, but they were very dark (I have a batcave). The colors weren't as vivid as the colors were on the 85" Sony X950G 4K set that I checked out at BB a few months ago, playing the demo loop. But they looked fine/very good.
> 
> I guess I've made up my mind not to buy an 85" 4K set this fall/winter - for I just now ordered a backup lamp for the 5030UB (this will be the 7th or 8th lamp that I've bought for the 5030UB over the years).
> 
> I'll pass on the 5050UB this year. I'll wait for the 5060UB in 1-3 years. Hopefully, Epson will develop a dynamic tone mapping feature like the one that JVC has this year. By then, my 5030UB will surely have to be replaced - no dust blobs yet!
> 
> BTW:
> I highly recommend:
> 1. A Darbee for 1080 if you don't have one already.
> 2. If your confined due to COVID-19, to pass the time, I recommend that you sign up for a plan at DVD/Netflix for movies that you haven't seen yet. We are on the 8 out plan. In 40 days, we have received 63 discs. It's great because the mailman drops the discs off right at our door and picks them up later. A win-win with COVID-19 out there.
> 
> If the movie isn't your cup of tea, and if your player is a Pany 110, 420, 820 (these are the ones that I have tested), you can set the fast forward control to the first step, and the disc will play for 96 minutes in only 60 minutes real time, with audio! This is what we do with movies that we find to be so-so, instead of hitting the eject button on the remote.



I sometimes question if we’ve made things better across the board with HDR.

To tell the truth, 4K SDR content looks pretty great most of the time.. and it can be hard to tell strong 1080p content upscaled to 4K from 4K sources at times.

I think source quality and artistic composition is many times more important than the tech formats.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Robin Hood (2019) it’s only 1080p version but still stunningly sharp image quality and real decent sound stage with plenty of dynamics.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qgmme1qy3hmtbop/Photo 14-04-2020, 18 28 09.jpg?dl=0


----------



## Danonano

Yosemite N. P. said:


> I guess I've made up my mind not to buy an 85" 4K set this fall/winter - for I just now ordered a backup lamp for the 5030UB (this will be the 7th or 8th lamp that I've bought for the 5030UB over the years).


Can I ask where you order lamps from? I'm just looking to get one at a decent price. thanks


----------



## Yosemite N. P.

Danonano said:


> Can I ask where you order lamps from? I'm just looking to get one at a decent price. thanks


I buy all of my lamps from the Epson Store. $299+ tax for the 5030UB.


----------



## jaredmwright

Yosemite N. P. said:


> While watching the Serenity BD and the Revenge BD today, I kept thinking to myself - who needs 4K resolution? Or even HDR10, HDR10+ or DV for more colors than this?
> 
> 
> 
> This was with a 159" Da-Lite High Power 2.8 gain screen, my ancient 6+ year old 5030UB, and a Darbee. Throw is 18'-3", view distance is 12'-0".
> 
> 
> 
> The black bars, when playing the Revenge BD, weren't as black as they would have been with an OLED set, but they were very dark (I have a batcave). The colors weren't as vivid as the colors were on the 85" Sony X950G 4K set that I checked out at BB a few months ago, playing the demo loop. But they looked fine/very good.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I've made up my mind not to buy an 85" 4K set this fall/winter - for I just now ordered a backup lamp for the 5030UB (this will be the 7th or 8th lamp that I've bought for the 5030UB over the years).
> 
> 
> 
> I'll pass on the 5050UB this year. I'll wait for the 5060UB in 1-3 years. Hopefully, Epson will develop a dynamic tone mapping feature like the one that JVC has this year. By then, my 5030UB will surely have to be replaced - no dust blobs yet!
> 
> 
> 
> BTW:
> 
> I highly recommend:
> 
> 1. A Darbee for 1080 if you don't have one already.
> 
> 2. If your confined due to COVID-19, to pass the time, I recommend that you sign up for a plan at DVD/Netflix for movies that you haven't seen yet. We are on the 8 out plan. In 40 days, we have received 63 discs. It's great because the mailman drops the discs off right at our door and picks them up later. A win-win with COVID-19 out there.
> 
> 
> 
> If the movie isn't your cup of tea, and if your player is a Pany 110, 420, 820 (these are the ones that I have tested), you can set the fast forward control to the first step, and the disc will play for 96 minutes in only 60 minutes real time, with audio! This is what we do with movies that we find to be so-so, instead of hitting the eject button on the remote.


I tend to agree with your comments. I came from a 5030ub using a Gofanco 4k to 1080P converter to remove HDR and get Atmos audio from 4K sources and had no complaints. I was due for a bulb and got a deal I couldn't pass up to upgrade so I made the jump.

I moved to a 6050ub and while it is nice having built in 4k and HDR support, it is marginally better in my experience, mostly in the contrast area. HDR also is a constant moving target, so avoiding it makes for a better experience vs constant fiddling of settings based on HDR production. 

Obviously many variables at play such as viewing distance, size, room etc... So ymmv.





Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Yosemite N. P. said:


> I buy all of my lamps from the Epson Store. $299+ tax for the 5030UB.


That is an outrageous price for an Epson lamp. You should not pay anywhere near that price. 

https://www.purelandsupply.com/epson-projector-lamp_home-cinema-5030ub.html

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dishoom

skylarlove1999 said:


> Image quality will be much better with an extension pipe. Well worth the investment and the hassle. Keystone correction is the worst thing for image quality it should really never be used
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Thank you for the suggestion. This is my first time setting up a projector, and I made some newbie mistakes. Previously, my projector was angled downward, and also had a Keystone value of -27. Yesterday, I adjusted the projector to be more level and perpendicular to the wall (which is a breeze with the Omnimount PJT40!). I then adjusted the vertical shift and zoom, which resulted in a Keystone of -2. I'm assuming that I should be as close to 0 as possible? Since the current settings are based on taped areas that I marked, they will need to change once I have the screen mounted. For now, it's a relief that it was my goof rather than faulty equipment.


----------



## ivanhoek

Dishoom said:


> Thank you for the suggestion. This is my first time setting up a projector, and I made some newbie mistakes. Previously, my projector was angled downward, and also had a Keystone value of -27. Yesterday, I adjusted the projector to be more level and perpendicular to the wall (which is a breeze with the Omnimount PJT40!). I then adjusted the vertical shift and zoom, which resulted in a Keystone of -2. I'm assuming that I should be as close to 0 as possible? Since the current settings are based on taped areas that I marked, they will need to change once I have the screen mounted. For now, it's a relief that it was my goof rather than faulty equipment.



You should forget about keystone. Some high end projectors don’t even include keystone correction. You should setup your projector correctly without any keystone being used.

It’s a digital manipulation that robs you of resolution and clarity. It’s there for presentation settings, to make setup easier. Think PowerPoint, not Movies.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> That is an outrageous price for an Epson lamp. You should not pay anywhere near that price.
> 
> https://www.purelandsupply.com/epson-projector-lamp_home-cinema-5030ub.html
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



That’s an OE not OEM. The bulb is the same but the enclosure is a knock off I’ll never buy another OE lamp again. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

fakerus said:


> That’s an OE not OEM. The bulb is the same but the enclosure is a knock off I’ll never buy another OE lamp again.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So you are concerned about the lamp housing not being the original manufacturers equipment? I agree that buying a lamp itself that is not original is not a good idea but I am not so sure the housing matters. Do you have a cautionary tale?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> So you are concerned about the lamp housing not being the original manufacturers equipment? I agree that buying a lamp itself that is not original is not a good idea but I am not so sure the housing matters. Do you have a cautionary tale?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I’ve bought OE lamps for 2 separate projectors in the last 3 years, they aren’t the same. Brightness and longevity doesn’t compare to OEM. There are countless threads on this subject. They work “fine” until you go back to OEM and realize you wasted $100. This is why I bought a 5050. I didn’t want to spend another $300 on a bulb for my Sony. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

fakerus said:


> I’ve bought OE lamps for 2 separate projectors in the last 3 years, they aren’t the same. Brightness and longevity doesn’t compare to OEM. There are countless threads on this subject. They work “fine” until you go back to OEM and realize you wasted $100. This is why I bought a 5050. I didn’t want to spend another $300 on a bulb for my Sony. Lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree with your point about the actual lamp. But I have never had a problem because the housing was not OEM. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> I agree with your point about the actual lamp. But I have never had a problem because the housing was not OEM.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Ok


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> I agree with your point about the actual lamp. But I have never had a problem because the housing was not OEM.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



https://www.purelandsupply.com/Blog/2018/04/10/why-all-oem-inside-lamps-are-not-the-same/

Here’s a good explanation. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

fakerus said:


> https://www.purelandsupply.com/Blog/2018/04/10/why-all-oem-inside-lamps-are-not-the-same/
> 
> Here’s a good explanation.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I know I totally understand that's why I only buy from pureland Supply that's the link I originally posted not the blog but the link. LOL but thank you for the blog I'm sure it will be educational helpful for many people.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> I know I totally understand that's why I only buy from pureland Supply that's the link I originally posted not the blog but the link. LOL but thank you for the blog I'm sure it will be educational helpful for many people.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I posted it to answer your question about the housing. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

skylarlove1999 said:


> I know I totally understand that's why I only buy from pureland Supply that's the link I originally posted not the blog but the link. LOL but thank you for the blog I'm sure it will be educational helpful for many people.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


When buying lamps with generic housings there is always the possibility the UV coating are not up to manufacture specks and may burn some optical block components especially in LCD projectors. Buying direct from the manufacture assures you of not damaging the projector if not only for your peace of mind.


----------



## ivanhoek

rekbones said:


> When buying lamps with generic housings there is always the possibility the UV coating are not up to manufacture specks and may burn some optical block components especially in LCD projectors. Buying direct from the manufacture assures you of not damaging the projector if not only for your peace of mind.



That must be what happened to my old Sony.. I did notice some burn marks near the lamp housing and some discoloration of the glass shield near the lamp... I was using lamps from amazon that claimed to use the original lamp. 

They would last about a year 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Yosemite N. P. said:


> I buy all of my lamps from the Epson Store. $299+ tax for the 5030UB.


Unless this bulb is different than the 5050 this does sound quite expensive, either that or the UK for once is getting significantly better prices. Last time I checked a 9400 (5050/6050) bulb here from Epson was a little over £100.


----------



## fakerus

Luminated67 said:


> Unless this bulb is different than the 5050 this does sound quite expensive, either that or the UK for once is getting significantly better prices. Last time I checked a 9400 (5050/6050) bulb here from Epson was a little over £100.



That’s not the same lamp. The 5050 lamp is currently $330. 

https://epson.com/Accessories/Proje...-Replacement-Projector-Lamp-Bulb/p/V13H010L89


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

fakerus said:


> That’s not the same lamp. The 5050 lamp is currently $330.
> 
> https://epson.com/Accessories/Proje...-Replacement-Projector-Lamp-Bulb/p/V13H010L89
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



https://www.epson.co.uk/products/options/elplp89-v13h010l89

https://www.epson.co.uk/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9400

Scroll down to the bottom of the page and you’ll get to the accessories, new bulb £105.50.


----------



## fakerus

Luminated67 said:


> https://www.epson.co.uk/products/options/elplp89-v13h010l89
> 
> https://www.epson.co.uk/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9400
> 
> Scroll down to the bottom of the page and you’ll get to the accessories, new bulb £105.50.



You bastards! That’s insane. Also, I didn’t realize the 9400 is the euro version of the 5050. My bad. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

fakerus said:


> You bastards! That’s insane. Also, I didn’t realize the 9400 is the euro version of the 5050. My bad.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Exactly the 9400 is the European version of the 6050 not the 5050 and those of us who bought around it’s launch got an Epson 5yr warranty free.


----------



## ShadowBoy

fakerus said:


> I’ve bought OE lamps for 2 separate projectors in the last 3 years, they aren’t the same. Brightness and longevity doesn’t compare to OEM. There are countless threads on this subject. They work “fine” until you go back to OEM and realize you wasted $100. This is why I bought a 5050. I didn’t want to spend another $300 on a bulb for my Sony. Lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I do agree that that price is high, whether OE or OEM. I live in Australia where prices are usually much higher than the US and I just checked the Epson website and the price was $140. I also have used OE replacements a couple of times. They tended to die in less than half the times an OEM replacement does. I'll stick to real lamps from now on. BTW, I just tried to post this and got an error pop-up that my message was too short and that I needed to add at least two characters. Since when does AVS have a "too short" restriction?


----------



## Pretorian

thekyledaley said:


> Hey guys, thanks so much for your input, but I think I figured it out. The projector works fine, it was my fault (as you may have suspected, see the "Newbie" tag below my name).
> 
> Basically, when I first set up the projector I wasn't getting any signal so I turned the EDID setting to normal instead of expanded, which gave me video signals from my xbox and Nvidia shield. I wasn't sure what the setting was so I didn't think it was critical for 4kHDR60, but it sure is. So after some trouble shooting, in the end the issue was my HDMI connections and that EDID must be left to expanded. My connections go XBox-receiver-short cable to HDMI keystone jack-30 ft HDMI cable-another HDMI keystone jack to another short cable to my projector. I figured out that my 2 keystone jacks were limiting me from getting the full signal. They worked fine with 4k60 signals and my 5040 but I guess the signal from a full 4kHDR60 signal was just too much for them to handle. I will have to cut holes in my wall plates and use the extra slack in my 30 ft HDMI cable to connect directly from my receiver to my projector and bypass 2 keystone jacks and the short cable runs. It won't look quite as pretty but at least it will work!
> 
> Thanks again for your thoughts and I'm off to enjoy my awesome new projector.


I know this is an old post but I have the same problem with my 6050.
I connect my XBOX --> Denon X4500 --> Epson 6050

Between my Denon and my Epson I have this crazy expensive active optical cable but from my XBOX I only have a short "regular" cable. Could that be the problem?


----------



## Pretorian

Okey. I did the correct thing. I connected my Xbox directly to my Epson with my Supra cable. Every check is green. 
Soooo I need a new cable from Xbox to my Denon.


----------



## ckronengold

*Saved Memory Greyed Out*

Probably a silly question, but I couldn't find anything in the manual about it. 

I have 5 saved memory presets (picture, not lens position). Recently (though not sure when), one of my saved settings has been greyed out and can't be selected. 

I am able to rename the setting, but I can't select it or delete it. 

Any idea on what would cause this or how to fix? 

Thanks!


----------



## Pretorian

ckronengold said:


> Probably a silly question, but I couldn't find anything in the manual about it.
> 
> I have 5 saved memory presets (picture, not lens position). Recently (though not sure when), one of my saved settings has been greyed out and can't be selected.
> 
> I am able to rename the setting, but I can't select it or delete it.
> 
> Any idea on what would cause this or how to fix?
> 
> Thanks!


Is that specific setting locked to a specific source? As if you have it saved with HDR and things like that but the source you are running is just SDR?


----------



## ckronengold

Pretorian said:


> Is that specific setting locked to a specific source? As if you have it saved with HDR and things like that but the source you are running is just SDR?


Its actually one of my SDR presets, and its not locked to anything. Strange, but something I'm sure I'll fix as easily as I messed it up.


----------



## PaulDG

Greetings!


I have logged about 100 hours on my Epson 5050UB and so far am very happy with it until today.


After watching a film, I attempted to shut down by pushing the power button on the projector (twice, of course) with no response. I attempted to do the same thing using the remote. Nothing. 



After a very short period, the fan was noticeable for several minutes, then shut off, and was accompanied by the following warning lights: 



Power Light - OFF / Status Light - Flashing Blue / Lamp Light - Flashing Orange / Temp Light - OFF. The manual's status and solution: "Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help."


After about ten minutes I did unplug the projector and got my information together to call Epson. I was just about to call when I decided to plug it back in, after which I found it to be working normally again. 



Has anyone else had this happen? Should I wait to see if it happens again before calling support?


Thanks much!


Paul


----------



## ivanhoek

PaulDG said:


> Greetings!
> 
> 
> I have logged about 100 hours on my Epson 5050UB and so far am very happy with it until today.
> 
> 
> After watching a film, I attempted to shut down by pushing the power button on the projector (twice, of course) with no response. I attempted to do the same thing using the remote. Nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> After a very short period, the fan was noticeable for several minutes, then shut off, and was accompanied by the following warning lights:
> 
> 
> 
> Power Light - OFF / Status Light - Flashing Blue / Lamp Light - Flashing Orange / Temp Light - OFF. The manual's status and solution: "Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help."
> 
> 
> After about ten minutes I did unplug the projector and got my information together to call Epson. I was just about to call when I decided to plug it back in, after which I found it to be working normally again.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this happen? Should I wait to see if it happens again before calling support?
> 
> 
> Thanks much!
> 
> 
> Paul



It will be very difficult, if not impossible for Epson support to diagnose a problem that isn’t happening ... you can wait until it happens again or the projector actually breaks in some diagnosable way.

You could always call and try your luck though.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

PaulDG said:


> Greetings!
> 
> 
> I have logged about 100 hours on my Epson 5050UB and so far am very happy with it until today.
> 
> 
> After watching a film, I attempted to shut down by pushing the power button on the projector (twice, of course) with no response. I attempted to do the same thing using the remote. Nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> After a very short period, the fan was noticeable for several minutes, then shut off, and was accompanied by the following warning lights:
> 
> 
> 
> Power Light - OFF / Status Light - Flashing Blue / Lamp Light - Flashing Orange / Temp Light - OFF. The manual's status and solution: "Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help."
> 
> 
> After about ten minutes I did unplug the projector and got my information together to call Epson. I was just about to call when I decided to plug it back in, after which I found it to be working normally again.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this happen? Should I wait to see if it happens again before calling support?
> 
> 
> Thanks much!
> 
> 
> Paul


Sounds like a bulb failure, hopefully something minor or they swap under warranty. Sorry to hear that, please report back your resolution.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

PaulDG said:


> Greetings!
> 
> 
> I have logged about 100 hours on my Epson 5050UB and so far am very happy with it until today.
> 
> 
> After watching a film, I attempted to shut down by pushing the power button on the projector (twice, of course) with no response. I attempted to do the same thing using the remote. Nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> After a very short period, the fan was noticeable for several minutes, then shut off, and was accompanied by the following warning lights:
> 
> 
> 
> Power Light - OFF / Status Light - Flashing Blue / Lamp Light - Flashing Orange / Temp Light - OFF. The manual's status and solution: "Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help."
> 
> 
> After about ten minutes I did unplug the projector and got my information together to call Epson. I was just about to call when I decided to plug it back in, after which I found it to be working normally again.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this happen? Should I wait to see if it happens again before calling support?
> 
> 
> Thanks much!
> 
> 
> Paul


I bet it was a static pulse from your finger corrupted the firmware. If its dry in the house avoid touching the projector, use the remote.


----------



## HTX^2steve

rekbones said:


> I bet it was a static pulse from your finger corrupted the firmware. If its dry in the house avoid touching the projector, use the remote.


Remember: Social distancing with the Epson...


----------



## bennyjammin

DunMunro said:


> This has worked well for me:
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZNKF7C8


So I got this splitter you recommended. It works fine to split hdmi into two identical signals, but the trouble with that is when I feed it 4K 60hz, my lyngdorf MP-50 can no longer extract audio because I’ve exceeded it’s 10.2gbps limit. The manual for this splitter says it can downscale automatically for TVs that support up to 1080p. So I setup the lyngdorf inputs to only advertise 1080p, but I’m still not getting the lyngdorf to process audio when my source is 4k60hz. So this implies the splitter is not performing the downscale. Any suggestions?


----------



## edwingoh

HTX^2steve said:


> Remember: Social distancing with the Epson...


Its exhibiting mild symptoms of covid-19


----------



## Mrkazador

PaulDG said:


> Greetings!
> 
> 
> I have logged about 100 hours on my Epson 5050UB and so far am very happy with it until today.
> 
> 
> After watching a film, I attempted to shut down by pushing the power button on the projector (twice, of course) with no response. I attempted to do the same thing using the remote. Nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> After a very short period, the fan was noticeable for several minutes, then shut off, and was accompanied by the following warning lights:
> 
> 
> 
> Power Light - OFF / Status Light - Flashing Blue / Lamp Light - Flashing Orange / Temp Light - OFF. The manual's status and solution: "Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help."
> 
> 
> After about ten minutes I did unplug the projector and got my information together to call Epson. I was just about to call when I decided to plug it back in, after which I found it to be working normally again.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had this happen? Should I wait to see if it happens again before calling support?
> 
> 
> Thanks much!
> 
> 
> Paul


I had a similar issue. I was watching a movie at 23.976hz and when I switched back to 60hz, I got the same error. I unplugged it and its been working fine since.


----------



## DunMunro

bennyjammin said:


> So I got this splitter you recommended. It works fine to split hdmi into two identical signals, but the trouble with that is when I feed it 4K 60hz, my lyngdorf MP-50 can no longer extract audio because I’ve exceeded it’s 10.2gbps limit. The manual for this splitter says it can downscale automatically for TVs that support up to 1080p. So I setup the lyngdorf inputs to only advertise 1080p, but I’m still not getting the lyngdorf to process audio when my source is 4k60hz. So this implies the splitter is not performing the downscale. Any suggestions?


So you want to send video to your HC5050 and audio to the MP-50? What you want to do in that case is to set up an ARC output to the MP-50, not two identical signals, AFAIK. I don't use the ARC on my setup (I use the coax out to my coax in) so I haven't tried to set that feature up.


----------



## ivanhoek

bennyjammin said:


> So I got this splitter you recommended. It works fine to split hdmi into two identical signals, but the trouble with that is when I feed it 4K 60hz, my lyngdorf MP-50 can no longer extract audio because I’ve exceeded it’s 10.2gbps limit. The manual for this splitter says it can downscale automatically for TVs that support up to 1080p. So I setup the lyngdorf inputs to only advertise 1080p, but I’m still not getting the lyngdorf to process audio when my source is 4k60hz. So this implies the splitter is not performing the downscale. Any suggestions?



This one does exactly what you want.

I use it to send only audio to my older denon 4520ci , but my epson gets 4k60.

Just in case you can’t get the one you have to operate in this configuration.


XOLORspace 23421 HDMI 2.0 4X2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25VVFV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

edwingoh said:


> Its exhibiting mild symptoms of covid-19


Yeah pretty sure this is what’s wrong with the projector, it should be fine in 14 days but until then just use gloves and mask whilst watching movies and try moving your seats at least 2 meters away from it if possible.


----------



## PaulDG

Thanks for all the input. I sure as hell hope I don't have to put it on a ventilator.


rekbones, that is a very interesting diagnosis. I've had an inordinate amount of static electricity in my theater room. I've gotten pretty powerful shocks just turning the lights on or off. I've taken to turning on the subwoofers and turning on other switches with the eraser end of a pencil. The projector itself has not given off a shock when just using a finger, I assume because of the plastic housing. I've been considering getting an anti-static spray for the carpet or anti-static shoes. It didn't occur to me that static electricity could affect the projector's operation. I'll try just using the remote as you suggested in addition to putting a mask over the lens. ;-)


Thanks!


----------



## bennyjammin

DunMunro said:


> bennyjammin said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I got this splitter you recommended. It works fine to split hdmi into two identical signals, but the trouble with that is when I feed it 4K 60hz, my lyngdorf MP-50 can no longer extract audio because Iâ€™️ve exceeded itâ€™️s 10.2gbps limit. The manual for this splitter says it can downscale automatically for TVs that support up to 1080p. So I setup the lyngdorf inputs to only advertise 1080p, but Iâ€™️m still not getting the lyngdorf to process audio when my source is 4k60hz. So this implies the splitter is not performing the downscale. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> So you want to send video to your HC5050 and audio to the MP-50? What you want to do in that case is to set up an ARC output to the MP-50, not two identical signals, AFAIK. I don't use the ARC on my setup (I use the coax out to my coax in) so I haven't tried to set that feature up.
Click to expand...

ARC would be limited to low audio bitrate like Dolby digital


----------



## DunMunro

bennyjammin said:


> ARC would be limited to low audio bitrate like Dolby digital


Did you try it?

I thought ARC would pass the entire audio signal.

According to the manual you have to use Output A to Output 4K and Output B to simultaneously downscale 4K to 1080P, however this is something I can't test.


----------



## ivanhoek

DunMunro said:


> Did you try it?
> 
> I thought ARC would pass the entire audio signal.



ARC doesn’t pass lossless formats and high bitrate. This is why eARC (enhanced ARC) was developed.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

PaulDG said:


> Thanks for all the input. I sure as hell hope I don't have to put it on a ventilator.
> 
> 
> rekbones, that is a very interesting diagnosis. I've had an inordinate amount of static electricity in my theater room. I've gotten pretty powerful shocks just turning the lights on or off. I've taken to turning on the subwoofers and turning on other switches with the eraser end of a pencil. The projector itself has not given off a shock when just using a finger, I assume because of the plastic housing. I've been considering getting an anti-static spray for the carpet or anti-static shoes. It didn't occur to me that static electricity could affect the projector's operation. I'll try just using the remote as you suggested in addition to putting a mask over the lens. ;-)
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Get a humidifier. It only takes about 40 volts to start playing havoc with electronics. When you feel/see an arc its in the thousands of volts. Just because you don't feel an arc doesn't mean it didn't arc.


----------



## bennyjammin

ivanhoek said:


> This one does exactly what you want.
> 
> I use it to send only audio to my older denon 4520ci , but my epson gets 4k60.
> 
> Just in case you can’t get the one you have to operate in this configuration.
> 
> 
> XOLORspace 23421 HDMI 2.0 4X2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25VVFV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks. I’ll try to order that one again. The first time I tried I kept getting shipment delay notifications from Amazon and eventually they just cancelled my order.


----------



## Pretorian

I have upgraded to the Denon X4500 so now I can pass through 4k content.

But there are some really bad artefacts when watching high quality video like in my example.

I have a rip with 60-80 Mbit bitrate and I still get these artefacts like big blocks.

Some darker scenes are hard to watch because it is so blocky.

Can this be a setting in my Epson that makes this and are any of you having the same experience?


----------



## noob00224

Pretorian said:


> I have upgraded to the Denon X4500 so now I can pass through 4k content.
> 
> But there are some really bad artefacts when watching high quality video like in my example.
> 
> I have a rip with 60-80 Mbit bitrate and I still get these artefacts like big blocks.
> 
> Some darker scenes are hard to watch because it is so blocky.
> 
> Can this be a setting in my Epson that makes this and are any of you having the same experience?


You're going to have to give a lot more details then that.

Take a picture that is not blurry.

What is being used to do the rip?

How is it being played back?


----------



## Seawater

*Epson 6050Ub-Fumes or Heat Vapor Artifacts*

Just recently purchased a 6050ub off a dealer. I am the previous owner of a 5020ub and a 5040ub.

Last night we watched our 1st movie on this projector. On the brighter parts of the film you could see "fume" like artifacts, or vapor trails. Like how you see fumes coming off of gasoline or heat off a hot road in the summertime. So tonight I tried it again and I saw the same thing. It is usually in brighter areas. I am using a fiber optic HDMI cable, NVidea Shield, Oppo 203, and a Denon 6300 receiver. I saw it on a Blu-ray and 4k disk on the Oppo 203. I also saw it streaming using the Nvidia Shield. Thinking it may be the receiver, I plugged the HDMI directly into the Oppo 203, and I got the same type of artifacts. So it's definitely not the source.

I'm thinking maybe the bulb? I'm not sure. I've never had this issue on the 5020 or the 5040.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott


----------



## skylarlove1999

Seawater said:


> Just recently purchased a 6050ub off a dealer. I am the previous owner of a 5020ub and a 5040ub.
> 
> 
> 
> Last night we watched our 1st movie on this projector. On the brighter parts of the film you could see "fume" like artifacts, or vapor trails. Like how you see fumes coming off of gasoline or heat off a hot road in the summertime. So tonight I tried it again and I saw the same thing. It is usually in brighter areas. I am using a fiber optic HDMI cable, NVidea Shield, Oppo 203, and a Denon 6300 receiver. I saw it on a Blu-ray and 4k disk on the Oppo 203. I also saw it streaming using the Nvidia Shield. Thinking it may be the receiver, I plugged the HDMI directly into the Oppo 203, and I got the same type of artifacts. So it's definitely not the source.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking maybe the bulb? I'm not sure. I've never had this issue on the 5020 or the 5040.
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Scott


You don't happen to have your cold air return near the projector lens do you? I have seen this happen when the cold air hits the lens. I would take the projector down from the ceiling and see if you still get it on the same content.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Seawater

skylarlove1999 said:


> You don't happen to have your cold air return near the projector lens do you? I have seen this happen when the cold air hits the lens. I would take the projector down from the ceiling and see if you still get it on the same content.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


No I do not. It hangs from the same place the 5040 did.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Seawater said:


> No I do not. It hangs from the same place the 5040 did.


Any smoking in the house or from your popcorn maker?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Seawater

skylarlove1999 said:


> Any smoking in the house or from your popcorn maker?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


No smoking in the house. Air temp. is about 65F.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Seawater said:


> No smoking in the house. Air temp. is about 65F.


Only thing I can think is the air temp is interacting with the lens and creating that heat plume you described. Any way to hear the room up to 70-72? I know it is a stretch. I wish I had an answer.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Seawater said:


> Just recently purchased a 6050ub off a dealer. I am the previous owner of a 5020ub and a 5040ub.
> 
> 
> 
> Last night we watched our 1st movie on this projector. On the brighter parts of the film you could see "fume" like artifacts, or vapor trails. Like how you see fumes coming off of gasoline or heat off a hot road in the summertime. So tonight I tried it again and I saw the same thing. It is usually in brighter areas. I am using a fiber optic HDMI cable, NVidea Shield, Oppo 203, and a Denon 6300 receiver. I saw it on a Blu-ray and 4k disk on the Oppo 203. I also saw it streaming using the Nvidia Shield. Thinking it may be the receiver, I plugged the HDMI directly into the Oppo 203, and I got the same type of artifacts. So it's definitely not the source.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking maybe the bulb? I'm not sure. I've never had this issue on the 5020 or the 5040.
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Scott


Do you have frame interpolation turned on by any chance? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

noob00224 said:


> You're going to have to give a lot more details then that.
> 
> Take a picture that is not blurry.
> 
> What is being used to do the rip?
> 
> How is it being played back?


I will update with better and sharper pictures.
I am using high quality remux rips as source running from my Dune HD 4k Pro player.
Connect it to my Denon X4500 and on to my Epson using high speed active HDMI.

I have everything on "max" or "auto" both on the Dune and the Epson.

The image is super crisp and bright and all but whenever there is a slow gradient like the sky in the pic or a dark background I get these HUGE chunks of blocky artifacts.

I have the Epson at Bright Cinema but I have tried all the other modes without any luck.
Image Enhancement is set to 3.


----------



## Seawater

biglen said:


> Do you have frame interpolation turned on by any chance?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Frame interpolation is greyed out.


----------



## fakerus

Seawater said:


> Just recently purchased a 6050ub off a dealer. I am the previous owner of a 5020ub and a 5040ub.
> 
> Last night we watched our 1st movie on this projector. On the brighter parts of the film you could see "fume" like artifacts, or vapor trails. Like how you see fumes coming off of gasoline or heat off a hot road in the summertime. So tonight I tried it again and I saw the same thing. It is usually in brighter areas. I am using a fiber optic HDMI cable, NVidea Shield, Oppo 203, and a Denon 6300 receiver. I saw it on a Blu-ray and 4k disk on the Oppo 203. I also saw it streaming using the Nvidia Shield. Thinking it may be the receiver, I plugged the HDMI directly into the Oppo 203, and I got the same type of artifacts. So it's definitely not the source.
> 
> I'm thinking maybe the bulb? I'm not sure. I've never had this issue on the 5020 or the 5040.
> 
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Scott



The fume artifacts are caused by heat in the room. I have the same thing happen when my heat is on. You probably didn’t notice it before because the 5040 wasn’t as bright. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dimi123

Pretorian said:


> I will update with better and sharper pictures.
> I am using high quality remux rips as source running from my Dune HD 4k Pro player.
> Connect it to my Denon X4500 and on to my Epson using high speed active HDMI.
> 
> I have everything on "max" or "auto" both on the Dune and the Epson.
> 
> The image is super crisp and bright and all but whenever there is a slow gradient like the sky in the pic or a dark background I get these HUGE chunks of blocky artifacts.
> 
> I have the Epson at Bright Cinema but I have tried all the other modes without any luck.
> Image Enhancement is set to 3.


Make sure that the Dune is outputting video at 12bit 4:2:2. Blockiness is caused by 8bit transmission.


----------



## HTX^2steve

fakerus said:


> The fume artifacts are caused by heat in the room. I have the same thing happen when my heat is on. You probably didn’t notice it before because the 5040 wasn’t as bright.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I also have seen this...


----------



## noob00224

Pretorian said:


> I will update with better and sharper pictures.
> I am using high quality remux rips as source running from my Dune HD 4k Pro player.
> Connect it to my Denon X4500 and on to my Epson using high speed active HDMI.
> 
> I have everything on "max" or "auto" both on the Dune and the Epson.
> 
> The image is super crisp and bright and all but whenever there is a slow gradient like the sky in the pic or a dark background I get these HUGE chunks of blocky artifacts.
> 
> I have the Epson at Bright Cinema but I have tried all the other modes without any luck.
> Image Enhancement is set to 3.


Does it happen with smooth same color images like this?


----------



## Pretorian

noob00224 said:


> Does it happen with smooth same color images like this?


Exactly like that! Some scenes in Edge of Tomorrow where unwatchable.

I am pretty sure I have everything on MAX in terms of 4.2.2 and all that.

When I press the INFO button on the Dune I get all the data on what the original file has and what it is sending out.
The same with the Epson, I always look what signal it is getting fed and all looks good.


----------



## noob00224

Pretorian said:


> Exactly like that! Some scenes in Edge of Tomorrow where unwatchable.
> 
> I am pretty sure I have everything on MAX in terms of 4.2.2 and all that.
> 
> When I press the INFO button on the Dune I get all the data on what the original file has and what it is sending out.
> The same with the Epson, I always look what signal it is getting fed and all looks good.


Usually banding happens if 8 bit used instead of 10. Banding can also be present due to the display itself, and the quality of the source (shooting/post processing). And incorrect settings.
It's probably some settings issue.


----------



## Pretorian

I read in an older post that the receiver might be doing something and degrading the quality:
_*Sons of Anarchy! I fixed the problem... it was with my Denon x2300 AVR. Somehow I had video processing and scaling turned on in my Denon. After turning both off and just setting it to "Bypass," the banding went away. Phew!*_

I will take a look when I get home.


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> I read in an older post that the receiver might be doing something and degrading the quality:
> 
> _*Sons of Anarchy! I fixed the problem... it was with my Denon x2300 AVR. Somehow I had video processing and scaling turned on in my Denon. After turning both off and just setting it to "Bypass," the banding went away. Phew!*_
> 
> 
> 
> I will take a look when I get home.


That was going to be my next suggestion. Bypass the receiver, and plug a source directly into the Epson. Eliminate as much equipment as possible, then start from scratch. I'd even question the HDMI cable that's being used. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Fox1966

Does anyone have any experience with how the Epson 3700 compares to the Epson 5050UB? I currently have the 3700 which I love, but would like the capability for 4k projection with HDR. Would it be worth the upgrade? Also, I'm curious about how the vertical lens shift compares. I've heard that there is more lens shift on the 5050UB...right now, I have a makeshift podium to raise the 3700 up, and then still have to use all available lens shift. If the 5050ub has more vertical lens shift, that would definitely be helpful as well.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Fox1966 said:


> Does anyone have any experience with how the Epson 3700 compares to the Epson 5050UB? I currently have the 3700 which I love, but would like the capability for 4k projection with HDR. Would it be worth the upgrade? Also, I'm curious about how the vertical lens shift compares. I've heard that there is more lens shift on the 5050UB...right now, I have a makeshift podium to raise the 3700 up, and then still have to use all available lens shift. If the 5050ub has more vertical lens shift, that would definitely be helpful as well.


I just made this transition so hopefully I can shed a little light on this for you based upon my observations:

1.) The fan noise is considerably less with the 5050. I used to run the 3700 in medium lamp and that's louder than high lamp on the 5050. As in when I turn the 3700 on it's now distracting where I didn't even used to really notice it before. 

2.) The expanded colors you get when watching 4K discs or streaming is noticeable. I can run the projector in digital cinema mode with the Panasonic bluray and get a plenty bright picture even with the color filter in place. In fact I run digital cinema in high lamp mode with a lot of viewing and find that it tends to be plenty bright if the content warrants it. I have a 150" screen so I'm asking a lot from the projector. To be fair, what is "bright" is subjective. The reality is if you need the extra lumens remove the color filter and switch over to Natural or Bright Cinema and the picture still really pops. 

3.) Black levels are a definite step up. Your room and setup will determine how much of that you'll actually realize.

4.) The thing I'm probably least wowed with is increased sharpness. I have continuously found that if the source is really good then 1080p on my 150" screen sitting 15 feet away has all the clarity I desire. If the source sucks there's very little the projector can do to shield you from that. Yes it is "sharper" but I've always been more wowed by the expanded color and deeper blacks than a slightly sharper picture. I've thought to myself several times "damn that looks good" and it's never really had to do with a sharpness I didn't have before. 

5.) I've not done a lens shift comparison. It worked before and it works now so I've gone no further with this comparison. 

To summarize, I've found the 5050 to be a superior viewing experience and worth the premium. I will note that I also considered the 3800 as that is indeed the step up from the 3700 but the fan noise drop alone was worth price in step up to me. Hope that helps.


----------



## ivanhoek

Hawkmarket said:


> I just made this transition so hopefully I can shed a little light on this for you based upon my observations:
> 
> 1.) The fan noise is considerably less with the 5050. I used to run the 3700 in medium lamp and that's louder than high lamp on the 5050. As in when I turn the 3700 on it's now distracting where I didn't even used to really notice it before.
> 
> 2.) The expanded colors you get when watching 4K discs or streaming is noticeable. I can run the projector in digital cinema mode with the Panasonic bluray and get a plenty bright picture even with the color filter in place. In fact I run digital cinema in high lamp mode with a lot of viewing and find that it tends to be plenty bright if the content warrants it. I have a 150" screen so I'm asking a lot from the projector. To be fair, what is "bright" is subjective. The reality is if you need the extra lumens remove the color filter and switch over to Natural or Bright Cinema and the picture still really pops.
> 
> 4.) Black levels are a definite step up. Your room and setup will determine how much of that you'll actually realize.
> 
> 4.) The thing I'm probably least wowed with is increased sharpness. I have continuously found that if the source is really good then 1080p on my 150" screen sitting 15 feet away has all the clarity I desire. If the source sucks there's very little the projector can do to shield you from that. Yes it is "sharper" but I've always been more wowed by the expanded color and deeper blacks than a slightly sharper picture. I've thought to myself several times "damn that looks good" and it's never really had to do with a sharpness I didn't have before.
> 
> 5.) I've not done a lens shift comparison. It worked before and it works now so I've gone no further with this comparison.
> 
> To summarize, I've found the 5050 to be a superior viewing experience and worth the premium. I will note that I also considered the 3800 as that is indeed the step up from the 3700 but the fan noise drop alone was worth price in step up to me. Hope that helps.



Clean 1080p on the 5050 looks darn good... better than many poorer native 4K stuff 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Cpete285

hello everyone, I am a relatively new member but have often viewed this forum for information. 

Due to a new location I am looking to upgrade my projector from the benq ht2150st. I would be using this projector primarily in a dark living room (evenings) with the odd use for sports during the day, in which blinds can be closed (not blackout). 

Use would be 75% sports/movies (720p streaming to 4K from Apple TV), and 25% gaming (Xbox one and Nintendo switch)

Throw distance would be about 14ft with viewing distance at 13ft to a 112 screen.

My biggest fear is the motion judder as I am coming from a DLP projector. I have done a lot of reading and here it can be a problem here. Is this common? I can’t find a set answer one way or another.

I am also looking to buy from eastporters but I am told they are not an authorized dealer. Eastporters claims you send it back to them and they will deal with Epson I believe. Does anyone have experience with them?

Thanks in advance! I appreciate everyone’s help/experience


----------



## Fox1966

Hawkmarket said:


> I just made this transition so hopefully I can shed a little light on this for you based upon my observations:
> 
> 1.) The fan noise is considerably less with the 5050. I used to run the 3700 in medium lamp and that's louder than high lamp on the 5050. As in when I turn the 3700 on it's now distracting where I didn't even used to really notice it before.
> 
> 2.) The expanded colors you get when watching 4K discs or streaming is noticeable. I can run the projector in digital cinema mode with the Panasonic bluray and get a plenty bright picture even with the color filter in place. In fact I run digital cinema in high lamp mode with a lot of viewing and find that it tends to be plenty bright if the content warrants it. I have a 150" screen so I'm asking a lot from the projector. To be fair, what is "bright" is subjective. The reality is if you need the extra lumens remove the color filter and switch over to Natural or Bright Cinema and the picture still really pops.
> 
> 3.) Black levels are a definite step up. Your room and setup will determine how much of that you'll actually realize.
> 
> 4.) The thing I'm probably least wowed with is increased sharpness. I have continuously found that if the source is really good then 1080p on my 150" screen sitting 15 feet away has all the clarity I desire. If the source sucks there's very little the projector can do to shield you from that. Yes it is "sharper" but I've always been more wowed by the expanded color and deeper blacks than a slightly sharper picture. I've thought to myself several times "damn that looks good" and it's never really had to do with a sharpness I didn't have before.
> 
> 5.) I've not done a lens shift comparison. It worked before and it works now so I've gone no further with this comparison.
> 
> To summarize, I've found the 5050 to be a superior viewing experience and worth the premium. I will note that I also considered the 3800 as that is indeed the step up from the 3700 but the fan noise drop alone was worth price in step up to me. Hope that helps.


Hawkmarket, thank you so much for this insight...much appreciated!


----------



## hajmolagasface

skylarlove1999 said:


> The specs definitely show it being capable. On your reciever you are setting video signal to pass through and letting the Projector handle all video processing correct? From the way you described it sounds like a handshake issue between components somewhere along the signal path. The easiest way to narrow it down would be to bypass your reciever and plug your HDMI Fiber optic cable directly into the projector but you can't do that with the fire stick. You can try plugging the fire stick directly into the projector. You wont get any sound but you might be able to see what signal you get from YouTube when choosing 4K content. Just press menu and go to projector info. I know my Roku Ultra had some handshake issues with the 5050 and would lock onto an Hdr signal and not let go and when switching to Sdr content the projector info was showing rec709 with an HDR SIGNAL. It would totally throw off the color saturation. The only way to break the signal lock was to switch between inputs on the projector. Turns out there was an advanced picture setting in the Roku player I needed to change that fixed the signal lock issue. Don't give up I am sure it can be worked out.


I know this post was written almost a year ago, but I just bought an Epson 5050 and am having what I presume is a handshake issue when watching 4k movies using my Roku Ultra.

Here is the basic setup:
Roku Ultra to Denon AVR 2600 to Epson 5050 (all connected with 4k appropriate HDMI cable).

Problem:
1) When I play 1080p content using Vudu, there is minimal delay in loading content and audio/video appear simultaneously. Furthermore, I am able to fast forward/rewind in real time.

2) When I play 4k content using Vudu, there is a noticeable (at least 4-5 second) lag between audio and video. I hear audio first while the projector screen is blank, and then the video finally appears. This happens when FF/rewinding content as well.

Troublehshooting:
- Switched the HDMI cable between Roku and AVR to a different 4k cable. (I have an in-ceiling fiber HDMI cable connecting AVR to projector, but this is brand new and up to date).

What else can I try? Any other strategies or troubleshooting ideas?

Thanks in advance, and sorry if this has been addressed already (couldn't find an easy answer in my search).


----------



## jaredmwright

hajmolagasface said:


> I know this post was written almost a year ago, but I just bought an Epson 5050 and am having what I presume is a handshake issue when watching 4k movies using my Roku Ultra.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the basic setup:
> 
> Roku Ultra to Denon AVR 2600 to Epson 5050 (all connected with 4k appropriate HDMI cable).
> 
> 
> 
> Problem:
> 
> 1) When I play 1080p content using Vudu, there is minimal delay in loading content and audio/video appear simultaneously. Furthermore, I am able to fast forward/rewind in real time.
> 
> 
> 
> 2) When I play 4k content using Vudu, there is a noticeable (at least 4-5 second) lag between audio and video. I hear audio first while the projector screen is blank, and then the video finally appears. This happens when FF/rewinding content as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Troublehshooting:
> 
> - Switched the HDMI cable between Roku and AVR to a different 4k cable. (I have an in-ceiling fiber HDMI cable connecting AVR to projector, but this is brand new and up to date).
> 
> 
> 
> What else can I try? Any other strategies or troubleshooting ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance, and sorry if this has been addressed already (couldn't find an easy answer in my search).


What is your source device playing the content? Sounds similar to what I experience on my Fire Stick 4K with my 6050ub. I do not have this issue on my Nvidia Shield. It sounds like it is switching formats and going between HDR and SDR causing the symptom you are describing. You can verify this by looking at the projector info before and after this occurs to see the mode it is in to confirm. Not sure there is a solution other than leave in HDR all the time or SDR. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

hajmolagasface said:


> I know this post was written almost a year ago, but I just bought an Epson 5050 and am having what I presume is a handshake issue when watching 4k movies using my Roku Ultra.
> 
> Here is the basic setup:
> Roku Ultra to Denon AVR 2600 to Epson 5050 (all connected with 4k appropriate HDMI cable).
> 
> Problem:
> 1) When I play 1080p content using Vudu, there is minimal delay in loading content and audio/video appear simultaneously. Furthermore, I am able to fast forward/rewind in real time.
> 
> 2) When I play 4k content using Vudu, there is a noticeable (at least 4-5 second) lag between audio and video. I hear audio first while the projector screen is blank, and then the video finally appears. This happens when FF/rewinding content as well.
> 
> Troublehshooting:
> - Switched the HDMI cable between Roku and AVR to a different 4k cable. (I have an in-ceiling fiber HDMI cable connecting AVR to projector, but this is brand new and up to date).
> 
> What else can I try? Any other strategies or troubleshooting ideas?
> 
> Thanks in advance, and sorry if this has been addressed already (couldn't find an easy answer in my search).



Switch to hdmi input 2 on the projector. For whatever reason this solved all of my issues. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Fox1966 said:


> Does anyone have any experience with how the Epson 3700 compares to the Epson 5050UB? I currently have the 3700 which I love, but would like the capability for 4k projection with HDR. Would it be worth the upgrade? Also, I'm curious about how the vertical lens shift compares. I've heard that there is more lens shift on the 5050UB...right now, I have a makeshift podium to raise the 3700 up, and then still have to use all available lens shift. If the 5050ub has more vertical lens shift, that would definitely be helpful as well.


It depends on the room. What color are the walls and are there sources of ambient light?

HDR is not just resolution, but WCG and grading. HDR requires much more brightness then SDR, but how bright it should be is subjective. The 5050UB can still cover ~87% of DCI P3 without the filter. Some people prefer the extra brightness over the remaining 13% of the color gamut. The filter reduces light output by 40-50%. 

Also depends on the size of the screen/format and fabric.

The lenses on the HC3700 have been known to cause distortions if lens shift is taken close to the limit. One user claimed the lenses on a 5000UB series could be used to 100% without issues.
There are some issues with focus uniformity on the HC3800 when lens shift is used from a few users.

After inputting the screen dimensions at the bottom of the page there is a section called lens shift:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_3700-projection-calculator-pro.htm



Cpete285 said:


> hello everyone, I am a relatively new member but have often viewed this forum for information.
> 
> Due to a new location I am looking to upgrade my projector from the benq ht2150st. I would be using this projector primarily in a dark living room (evenings) with the odd use for sports during the day, in which blinds can be closed (not blackout).
> 
> Use would be 75% sports/movies (720p streaming to 4K from Apple TV), and 25% gaming (Xbox one and Nintendo switch)
> 
> Throw distance would be about 14ft with viewing distance at 13ft to a 112 screen.
> 
> My biggest fear is the motion judder as I am coming from a DLP projector. I have done a lot of reading and here it can be a problem here. Is this common? I can’t find a set answer one way or another.
> 
> I am also looking to buy from eastporters but I am told they are not an authorized dealer. Eastporters claims you send it back to them and they will deal with Epson I believe. Does anyone have experience with them?
> 
> Thanks in advance! I appreciate everyone’s help/experience


Motion handling is a subjective topic. The best way to see one is to watch it live. 
There are many videos with the Epsons on the internet.

Benq HT3550 (50ms lag) vs. Epson HC3800 (high 20ms lag) on a 133" white screen in a mostly treated room:


----------



## hajmolagasface

jaredmwright said:


> What is your source device playing the content? Sounds similar to what I experience on my Fire Stick 4K with my 6050ub. I do not have this issue on my Nvidia Shield. It sounds like it is switching formats and going between HDR and SDR causing the symptom you are describing. You can verify this by looking at the projector info before and after this occurs to see the mode it is in to confirm. Not sure there is a solution other than leave in HDR all the time or SDR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I am using a Roku Ultra paired with a Denon AVR 2600. Where do you see if the content is being output in HDR vs SDR? I literally just got the projector, so sorry for my basic questions. Thanks.


----------



## hajmolagasface

fakerus said:


> Switch to hdmi input 2 on the projector. For whatever reason this solved all of my issues.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks I'll give this a try.


----------



## jaredmwright

hajmolagasface said:


> I am using a Roku Ultra paired with a Denon AVR 2600. Where do you see if the content is being output in HDR vs SDR? I literally just got the projector, so sorry for my basic questions. Thanks.


Epson menu, then information that shows the video information. Sounds like what I was running into. You can also set the resolution to 1080P on Roku to see as well since it won't switch to HDR.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

biglen said:


> That was going to be my next suggestion. Bypass the receiver, and plug a source directly into the Epson. Eliminate as much equipment as possible, then start from scratch. I'd even question the HDMI cable that's being used.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I still connect it through my Denon but I found a setting in the Denon that was set to STANDARD. I changed it to ENHANCED.
The tooltip explains that the first option is for 8 bit video and the other is for 12 bit.

STANDARD:
_Select if your TV and playback devices support standard 4K 60p 4:2:0 8 bit video signals.
_

ENHANCED:
_Select if your TV, playback devices, and cables support high quality 4K 60p 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4K 60p 4:2:0 10 bit video signals.
_

*That helped a lot!
*
I will still try a new high quality cable between the Dune and the Denon since the one I am using is old. The super expensive HDMI I have is used between the Denon and the Epson.


----------



## hajmolagasface

*Handshake issues with Roku ultra and Epson 5050 with video lag*



jaredmwright said:


> Epson menu, then information that shows the video information. Sounds like what I was running into. You can also set the resolution to 1080P on Roku to see as well since it won't switch to HDR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Thanks. I tried switching the projector input from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2, but still had the same handshake issues as I originally noted. Also, I ran into a few other issues on my Roku Ultra setup.
- I can only max out the resolution at 4K [email protected] hz and not 60 hz.
- HDR movies on Netflix are still being outputted as SDR (_Angel has Fallen_ was what I tried today), whereas they are in HDR on Vudu.

Anyone else have these issues? Also, any other suggestions to eliminate the handshake issue with 4K movies on Vudu? I am almost beginning to wonder if it's more of an HDR problem.

Thanks for the help.


----------



## hajmolagasface

hajmolagasface said:


> Thanks. I tried switching the projector input from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2, but still had the same handshake issues as I originally noted. Also, I ran into a few other issues on my Roku Ultra setup.
> - I can only max out the resolution at 4K [email protected] hz and not 60 hz.
> - HDR movies on Netflix are still being outputted as SDR (_Angel has Fallen_ was what I tried today), whereas they are in HDR on Vudu.
> 
> Anyone else have these issues? Also, any other suggestions to eliminate the handshake issue with 4K movies on Vudu? I am almost beginning to wonder if it's more of an HDR problem.
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Reading your first post again, I think this is what you had suspected. Any way around the SDR/HDR switching trouble? I can keep the projector permanently in HDR, but then all the Roku menus and stuff get messed up.


----------



## fakerus

hajmolagasface said:


> Thanks. I tried switching the projector input from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2, but still had the same handshake issues as I originally noted. Also, I ran into a few other issues on my Roku Ultra setup.
> - I can only max out the resolution at 4K [email protected] hz and not 60 hz.
> - HDR movies on Netflix are still being outputted as SDR (_Angel has Fallen_ was what I tried today), whereas they are in HDR on Vudu.
> 
> Anyone else have these issues? Also, any other suggestions to eliminate the handshake issue with 4K movies on Vudu? I am almost beginning to wonder if it's more of an HDR problem.
> 
> Thanks for the help.



I played around with my Marantz AVR last night and I was actually able to replicate the hand shake issue you’re having by turning the video conversion OFF. I had in on before but had the upscaling off. Having it ON didn’t seem to effect the picture and showed volume info on the screen which is a must for me. It also eliminates the 4-5 second hand shake. Give that a shot on you Denon, it should be the same. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> I still connect it through my Denon but I found a setting in the Denon that was set to STANDARD. I changed it to ENHANCED.
> 
> The tooltip explains that the first option is for 8 bit video and the other is for 12 bit.
> 
> 
> 
> STANDARD:
> 
> _Select if your TV and playback devices support standard 4K 60p 4:2:0 8 bit video signals.
> 
> _
> 
> 
> 
> ENHANCED:
> 
> _Select if your TV, playback devices, and cables support high quality 4K 60p 4:4:4, 4:2:2 or 4K 60p 4:2:0 10 bit video signals.
> 
> _
> 
> 
> 
> *That helped a lot!
> 
> *
> 
> I will still try a new high quality cable between the Dune and the Denon since the one I am using is old. The super expensive HDMI I have is used between the Denon and the Epson.


"Super expensive" doesn't mean it's a good HDMI cable. I went through a bunch of super expensive cables, that didn't work properly. You definitely want the Denon set to Enhanced. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Danonano

Fox1966 said:


> Does anyone have any experience with how the Epson 3700 compares to the Epson 5050UB? I currently have the 3700 which I love, but would like the capability for 4k projection with HDR. Would it be worth the upgrade? Also, I'm curious about how the vertical lens shift compares. I've heard that there is more lens shift on the 5050UB...right now, I have a makeshift podium to raise the 3700 up, and then still have to use all available lens shift. If the 5050ub has more vertical lens shift, that would definitely be helpful as well.



I've used a 3500 in the past, and now have a 5050. I'm not sure I would upgrade if your primary reason is to get better HDR. It still takes some work, in my experience, to get HDR looking good on the 5050. (Maybe the next generation of projectors will be true 4k and have an even more improved HDR solution.)

As mentioned above, there are other reasons to upgrade to the 5050- quieter fan, motorized lens etc.


----------



## biglen

fakerus said:


> I played around with my Marantz AVR last night and I was actually able to replicate the hand shake issue you’re having by turning the video conversion OFF. I had in on before but had the upscaling off. Having it ON didn’t seem to effect the picture and showed volume info on the screen which is a must for me. It also eliminates the 4-5 second hand shake. Give that a shot on you Denon, it should be the same.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This sounds like the issue I had awhile back. I'm not so sure it falls into a handshake issue. For me, it was the HDR trying to kick in, so I'd have sound for about 7 seconds, but no picture, when first playing an HDR video. It got much better when I bought a new Pioneer Elite receiver. My Denon was much worse than the Pioneer. I use Kodi to play all my ripped Blurays, and there is a setting in Kodi, that allows you to delay the audio, to catch up with the video. That solved my issue 100%. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

biglen said:


> "Super expensive" doesn't mean it's a good HDMI cable. I went through a bunch of super expensive cables, that didn't work properly. You definitely want the Denon set to Enhanced.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


But this IS a good cable:


----------



## cowbodude99

Hi all,
Does the 5050 handle 24p natively with eShift on? 

Does it have any type of interpolation?

I am having issues with my JVC's 24p handling when eShift is turned on.

Someone pointed me towards the BenQ HT5550, but wondering about the Epson.


----------



## ivanhoek

cowbodude99 said:


> Hi all,
> Does the 5050 handle 24p natively with eShift on?
> 
> Does it have any type of interpolation?
> 
> I am having issues with my JVC's 24p handling when eShift is turned on.
> 
> Someone pointed me towards the BenQ HT5550, but wondering about the Epson.



Yes, it works but only with 1080p sources.. FI doesn’t work when inputting 4K.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> But this IS a good cable:


I wasn't saying it wasn't. It was a general statement, because a lot of people assume that expensive, means good. My $53 35' BJC cable works flawlessly, and I tried a bunch that were well over $100, and they didn't perform well. For peace of mind, I'd definitely change that old cable between the Dune and Denon. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## cowbodude99

ivanhoek said:


> Yes, it works but only with 1080p sources.. FI doesn’t work when inputting 4K.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks!


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> This sounds like the issue I had awhile back. I'm not so sure it falls into a handshake issue. For me, it was the HDR trying to kick in, so I'd have sound for about 7 seconds, but no picture, when first playing an HDR video. It got much better when I bought a new Pioneer Elite receiver. My Denon was much worse than the Pioneer. I use Kodi to play all my ripped Blurays, and there is a setting in Kodi, that allows you to delay the audio, to catch up with the video. That solved my issue 100%.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Which Denon did you have? I was aiming to get a x3600h at some point but this other user having issues with his x2600h and the 5050 is making me a little hesitant.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> Which Denon did you have? I was aiming to get a x3600h at some point but this other user having issues with his x2600h and the 5050 is making me a little hesitant.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


X3500. I had an S710W before the X3500, and didn't have the problem. Maybe the newer Denons changed something to cause the issue?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

Pretorian said:


> But this IS a good cable:


Just looked up the specs of that cable and no where does it state it is "certified". It's frustrating regarding these cables and cost is no factor in how they preform. Certification at least means the cable was tested by an independent lab and meets or exceeds the manufactures specs.


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> This sounds like the issue I had awhile back. I'm not so sure it falls into a handshake issue. For me, it was the HDR trying to kick in, so I'd have sound for about 7 seconds, but no picture, when first playing an HDR video. It got much better when I bought a new Pioneer Elite receiver. My Denon was much worse than the Pioneer. I use Kodi to play all my ripped Blurays, and there is a setting in Kodi, that allows you to delay the audio, to catch up with the video. That solved my issue 100%.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Which Denon did you have? I was aiming to get a x3600h at some point but this other user having issues with his x2600h and the 5050 is making me a little hesitant.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Fox1966

Hawkmarket said:


> I just made this transition so hopefully I can shed a little light on this for you based upon my observations:
> 
> 1.) The fan noise is considerably less with the 5050. I used to run the 3700 in medium lamp and that's louder than high lamp on the 5050. As in when I turn the 3700 on it's now distracting where I didn't even used to really notice it before.
> 
> 2.) The expanded colors you get when watching 4K discs or streaming is noticeable. I can run the projector in digital cinema mode with the Panasonic bluray and get a plenty bright picture even with the color filter in place. In fact I run digital cinema in high lamp mode with a lot of viewing and find that it tends to be plenty bright if the content warrants it. I have a 150" screen so I'm asking a lot from the projector. To be fair, what is "bright" is subjective. The reality is if you need the extra lumens remove the color filter and switch over to Natural or Bright Cinema and the picture still really pops.
> 
> 3.) Black levels are a definite step up. Your room and setup will determine how much of that you'll actually realize.
> 
> 4.) The thing I'm probably least wowed with is increased sharpness. I have continuously found that if the source is really good then 1080p on my 150" screen sitting 15 feet away has all the clarity I desire. If the source sucks there's very little the projector can do to shield you from that. Yes it is "sharper" but I've always been more wowed by the expanded color and deeper blacks than a slightly sharper picture. I've thought to myself several times "damn that looks good" and it's never really had to do with a sharpness I didn't have before.
> 
> 5.) I've not done a lens shift comparison. It worked before and it works now so I've gone no further with this comparison.
> 
> To summarize, I've found the 5050 to be a superior viewing experience and worth the premium. I will note that I also considered the 3800 as that is indeed the step up from the 3700 but the fan noise drop alone was worth price in step up to me. Hope that helps.


Hawkmarket, your comment about the 3800 got me thinking last night (until you mentioned it, I didn't even realize there WAS a 4K 3800). If my room has only minimal light control, would I do just as well with the 3800 as opposed to the 5050UB? The 5050UB is definitely way more expensive...will an upgrade from the 3700 to the 3800 make a noticeable difference? 

Really appreciate the advice...although I have the 3700 and I love it, I still have a lot to learn about projectors in general


----------



## noob00224

Fox1966 said:


> Hawkmarket, your comment about the 3800 got me thinking last night (until you mentioned it, I didn't even realize there WAS a 4K 3800). If my room has only minimal light control, would I do just as well with the 3800 as opposed to the 5050UB? The 5050UB is definitely way more expensive...will an upgrade from the 3700 to the 3800 make a noticeable difference?
> 
> Really appreciate the advice...although I have the 3700 and I love it, I still have a lot to learn about projectors in general


This:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...on-hc-3200-3800-revealed-18.html#post59104622

And these:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...on-hc-3200-3800-revealed-12.html#post58879762
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...on-hc-3200-3800-revealed-13.html#post58907882


----------



## PaulDG

rekbones said:


> Get a humidifier. It only takes about 40 volts to start playing havoc with electronics. When you feel/see an arc its in the thousands of volts. Just because you don't feel an arc doesn't mean it didn't arc.


Thanks for the tip. I've ordered a humidifier that should arrive Saturday.


----------



## DavidinGA

People who have had their pj's calibrated (either professionally or diy with a professional meter and software) how would you rate the pq improvements? Say on a scale from 1 being a minimal improvement and 10 being a night/day improvement, how much of an improvement did you see?


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## misterg51

spiroh said:


> Here is a pic of it. It is static and has not moved at all.





rekbones said:


> Just looked up the specs of that cable and no where does it state it is "certified". It's frustrating regarding these cables and cost is no factor in how they preform. Certification at least means the cable was tested by an independent lab and meets or exceeds the manufactures specs.










This is an updated video about choosing the best hdmi cable in 2020. This video covers everything from HDMI Versions, to bandwidth, HDMI 2.1, 4K, and 8k. BEST HIGH SPEED HDMI CABLES FOR 4K: 6ft AmazonBasics 4K HDMI Cable - https://********/3b4Lwc3 6ft MediaBridge 4k HDMI Cable - https://********/2GOZNve 25ft AmazonBasics 4k HDMI Cable - https://********/3b5BirB BEST FIBER OPTIC HDMI CABLES FOR LONG DISTANCE: RUIPRO 35ft Fiber HDMI Cable - https://********/37PeMRL Furui 50ft Fiber HDMI Cable - https://********/2uYryih


----------



## fakerus

Quick question about the fan noise. Does you Epson change the noise based on what it’s projecting? (Black screen vs bright) And does it make constant mechanical noises?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bennyjammin

ivanhoek said:


> This one does exactly what you want.
> 
> I use it to send only audio to my older denon 4520ci , but my epson gets 4k60.
> 
> Just in case you can’t get the one you have to operate in this configuration.
> 
> 
> XOLORspace 23421 HDMI 2.0 4X2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25VVFV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This one worked. Thanks for the recommendation. Handshake issues are painful though with Apple TV. Screen blacks out for long periods and happens when navigating off a show/movie and going into the menu in Netflix for example. Causes loss of audio occasionally. Do you experience the same? I’m using a blue jeans 8’ hdmi cable to from ATV to the splitter and an optical hdmi to the Epson. Still happy it works and I guess I can live with the screen black out delays it causes.


----------



## ivanhoek

bennyjammin said:


> This one worked. Thanks for the recommendation. Handshake issues are painful though with Apple TV. Screen blacks out for long periods and happens when navigating off a show/movie and going into the menu in Netflix for example. Causes loss of audio occasionally. Do you experience the same? I’m using a blue jeans 8’ hdmi cable to from ATV to the splitter and an optical hdmi to the Epson. Still happy it works and I guess I can live with the screen black out delays it causes.



Yes, if you set the AppleTV to Match range and refresh rate it will resync very often as you watch things as it’s all different refresh rates and ranges ... very annoying

I settled on leaving everything at 60hz and only matching on range

That minimizes any resyncs only to when switching to HDR and back, but it never resyncs watching anything else 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hajmolagasface

fakerus said:


> I played around with my Marantz AVR last night and I was actually able to replicate the hand shake issue you’re having by turning the video conversion OFF. I had in on before but had the upscaling off. Having it ON didn’t seem to effect the picture and showed volume info on the screen which is a must for me. It also eliminates the 4-5 second hand shake. Give that a shot on you Denon, it should be the same.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I have video conversion on already and am still having this issue with the Roku Ultra. I am also unable to upscale the Denon AVR to 2600 without seeing significant flickering and an essentially unusable image on the Epson. My installer used an 8k fiber optic HDMI cable, which I presume should be able to handle essentially anything at this point. 

Any other suggestions?


----------



## hajmolagasface

fakerus said:


> I played around with my Marantz AVR last night and I was actually able to replicate the hand shake issue you’re having by turning the video conversion OFF. I had in on before but had the upscaling off. Having it ON didn’t seem to effect the picture and showed volume info on the screen which is a must for me. It also eliminates the 4-5 second hand shake. Give that a shot on you Denon, it should be the same.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk





fakerus said:


> Quick question about the fan noise. Does you Epson change the noise based on what it’s projecting? (Black screen vs bright) And does it make constant mechanical noises?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I have not found the fan noise to be significant, but the projector makes random clicking sounds when switching between screens on the Roku menu and when switching inputs. It also makes clicking sounds periodically as if something is turning off internally, which stop fairly quickly. To be honest, I have been a bit disappointed by the amount of extraneous noise the projector makes aside from the fan, which is really not bothersome.


----------



## Seawater

fakerus said:


> The fume artifacts are caused by heat in the room. I have the same thing happen when my heat is on. You probably didn’t notice it before because the 5040 wasn’t as bright.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How you are so right. I had an electric fireplace on which caused it. I feel foolish but then that’s what this forum is for. Thanks so much for solving this issue. It drove me crazy trying to figure it out!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Seawater said:


> How you are so right. I had an electric fireplace on which caused it. I feel foolish but then that’s what this forum is for. Thanks so much for solving this issue. It drove me crazy trying to figure it out!


Just for posterity I suggested this first

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

skylarlove1999 said:


> Just for posterity I suggested this first
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Not in those terms. Lol. You just confused him. I’m jk. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Seawater

skylarlove1999 said:


> Just for posterity I suggested this first
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you....


----------



## bennyjammin

ivanhoek said:


> Yes, if you set the AppleTV to Match range and refresh rate it will resync very often as you watch things as it’s all different refresh rates and ranges ... very annoying
> 
> I settled on leaving everything at 60hz and only matching on range
> 
> That minimizes any resyncs only to when switching to HDR and back, but it never resyncs watching anything else
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Given most content on Netflix is 24fps, does that mean if you’re set at 60hz you introduce 3:2 pulldown judder?


----------



## ivanhoek

bennyjammin said:


> Given most content on Netflix is 24fps, does that mean if you’re set at 60hz you introduce 3:2 pulldown judder?



Most content isn’t 24p, though a lot is.. in theory yes, you introduce the judder but the projector does 3:2 pull down very well and the result is great. I’m not offended by the picture and I avoid the annoyance 

24p from sources isn’t always great or the best... some thongs have bugs in 24p mode. 

For one, the 5050 can’t do FI for 4K anyway.. so pick your poison 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I wasn't saying it wasn't. It was a general statement, because a lot of people assume that expensive, means good. My $53 35' BJC cable works flawlessly, and I tried a bunch that were well over $100, and they didn't perform well. For peace of mind, I'd definitely change that old cable between the Dune and Denon.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I have a QED Reference 10m I fitted to my room back in 2016, that cable was well north of £130 and it couldn’t handle 4K 60Hz HDR. Price is definitely not an indicator of a cable’s performance.


----------



## Fox1966

I'm having a difficult time making up my mind between the 5050UB and the 3800. My room is not very light controlled, so I love the brightness of my current 3700. I have been running it in Eco mode, and recently bumped it up to Medium (the bulb is almost at 1400 hours now). My main reason for wanting to upgrade is to have 4k and HDR...the 3700 does not have these features. It would be a no brainer for me if the 5050UB had brightness that equaled the 3800....because I love absolutely everything else about the 5050UB, especially the better contrast and the ability to display the P3 color spectrum. But, I'm not sure how much I'm going to notice the decrease in lumens. I've been reading everything I can get my hands on, but keep flip flopping back and forth over which one I will enjoy the most.


----------



## noob00224

Fox1966 said:


> I'm having a difficult time making up my mind between the 5050UB and the 3800. My room is not very light controlled, so I love the brightness of my current 3700. I have been running it in Eco mode, and recently bumped it up to Medium (the bulb is almost at 1400 hours now). My main reason for wanting to upgrade is to have 4k and HDR...the 3700 does not have these features. It would be a no brainer for me if the 5050UB had brightness that equaled the 3800....because I love absolutely everything else about the 5050UB, especially the better contrast and the ability to display the P3 color spectrum. But, I'm not sure how much I'm going to notice the decrease in lumens. I've been reading everything I can get my hands on, but keep flip flopping back and forth over which one I will enjoy the most.


Could not find the screen diagonal and screen fabric mentioned. 
Could you provide this info?

How bright do you find the HC3700 now? Is there a lamp/preset that would make it too dim?


----------



## Fox1966

noob00224 said:


> Could not find the screen diagonal and screen fabric mentioned.
> Could you provide this info?
> 
> How bright do you find the HC3700 now? Is there a lamp/preset that would make it too dim?


My screen is the pull down 100 inch Elite Screens 1.1 Matte White model M100XWH. 

When the bulb was new, I watched every mode in Eco (except for 3D, which I watched in medium). The bulb has reached almost 1400 hours now, so I've swapped to medium in "Cinema" or "Natural" mode for blu rays and video, and to high when watching 3d blu rays (I do have a ton of 3D blu rays which we love to watch). Eco seems a little dim now to my tastes with the older bulb, but for quite some time it was just right. I do know that the 3D ability is important to me and my family, but the ability to watch our growing 4K movie collection on the "big screen" is now something we desire as well. I started off looking seriously at the 5050UB, then found out about the 3800 and thought it would be perfect, until I read that it doesn't cover the P3 color space like the 5050UB does...and that expanded color is something I feel is important for HDR...if the overall change in brightness won't be something that is too noticeable...


----------



## HTX^2steve

Fox1966 said:


> I'm having a difficult time making up my mind between the 5050UB and the 3800. My room is not very light controlled, so I love the brightness of my current 3700. I have been running it in Eco mode, and recently bumped it up to Medium (the bulb is almost at 1400 hours now). My main reason for wanting to upgrade is to have 4k and HDR...the 3700 does not have these features. It would be a no brainer for me if the 5050UB had brightness that equaled the 3800....because I love absolutely everything else about the 5050UB, especially the better contrast and the ability to display the P3 color spectrum. But, I'm not sure how much I'm going to notice the decrease in lumens. I've been reading everything I can get my hands on, but keep flip flopping back and forth over which one I will enjoy the most.


I would say move forward with the 5050 and correct for whatever room issues come your way. It really is a great projector other than the stupid lens positioning/saving bs.


----------



## diarhea

how big a picture can the 5040ub throw at 10ft away?


----------



## Fox1966

HTX^2steve said:


> I would say move forward with the 5050 and correct for whatever room issues come your way. It really is a great projector other than the stupid lens positioning/saving bs.


Steve, thank you for the input...right now, I think the 5050 is the direction I'm leaning...What is the issue with the lens positioning/saving? I haven't come across any information that discussed any problems with that (unless I just overlooked it).


----------



## HTX^2steve

I over-looked it also when I bought this PJ...Once I knew that it wasn't me that was making the error, I have come to a truce with it. I have like 3 memory lens savings and when saving a setting and then recalling it, the recalled position would be off by like an inch. If you look back and search here you will find many posts regarding it and the how to fixes but I just set it and then manually locked it in from the projector and I think it has been working. Not a deal breaker but sooooooooooo f-ing Epson annoying!


----------



## Luminated67

HTX^2steve said:


> I over-looked it also when I bought this PJ...Once I knew that it wasn't me that was making the error, I have come to a truce with it. I have like 3 memory lens savings and when saving a setting and then recalling it, the recalled position would be off by like an inch. If you look back and search here you will find many posts regarding it and the how to fixes but I just set it and then manually locked it in from the projector and I think it has been working. Not a deal breaker but sooooooooooo f-ing Epson annoying!


I must be one of the lucky ones or happened to set up the lens memory correctly first time round because mine is within 3mm to the left on the horizontal plane and on the money on the vertical.


----------



## noob00224

Fox1966 said:


> My screen is the pull down 100 inch Elite Screens 1.1 Matte White model M100XWH.
> 
> When the bulb was new, I watched every mode in Eco (except for 3D, which I watched in medium). The bulb has reached almost 1400 hours now, so I've swapped to medium in "Cinema" or "Natural" mode for blu rays and video, and to high when watching 3d blu rays (I do have a ton of 3D blu rays which we love to watch). Eco seems a little dim now to my tastes with the older bulb, but for quite some time it was just right. I do know that the 3D ability is important to me and my family, but the ability to watch our growing 4K movie collection on the "big screen" is now something we desire as well. I started off looking seriously at the 5050UB, then found out about the 3800 and thought it would be perfect, until I read that it doesn't cover the P3 color space like the 5050UB does...and that expanded color is something I feel is important for HDR...if the overall change in brightness won't be something that is too noticeable...


First of all I would recommend a bigger screen . Unless the seating is close, or you're satisfied with the current screen size. A larger screen will mean a dimmer image (with the same projector).

I estimate the current lamp is ~70% of the lamps original brightness, or 1100 lumens (1600 original Eco). On Medium lamp right now (Cinema/Natural) it should be ~1600 lumens.

I do want to point out that 1600 lumens on an 100" 1.0 gain screen is 1600lm / 29.67sq ft = 53.92fL
That's an 100" with 54fL or 185 nits. That is A LOT of brightness. 
The recommended value for lights off viewing is ~15fL. 


Some additional questions:
What is the room like?
Color of walls and any ambient light? 
Seating distance?
Current projector distance, and can it be changed? - The reason for this is the HC3700/3800 losses ~8% of brightness from 100% zoom to 0% zoom, while the 5050UB looses ~27%. 
The 5050 does have a longer throw ratio, but still.

The 5050UB starts off with ~1400-1500 lumens (Eco/Medium lamp) in the bright modes (mounted closest to the screen / 100% zoom). The WCG filter reduces light output by 40-50%, so ~1000 lumens in High lamp, ~700 in Eco.. 
This would be equivalent to the picture now (HC3700) on Natural/Cinema with Medium lamp.

The 5050UB can do ~2000 lumens in High lamp, without the filter, at 100% zoom. Consider the different db between the lamps:



Hawkmarket said:


> 1.) The fan noise is considerably less with the 5050. I used to run the 3700 in medium lamp and that's louder than high lamp on the 5050. As in when I turn the 3700 on it's now distracting where I didn't even used to really notice it before.


Also consider that the HC3800 is ~15% less bright then the HC3700. 

The cost of the lamps is higher on the 5050UB. How many hours a day is the projector being used?


How bright a screen should be is subjective. It could very well be that you could get used to the 5050UB's lower brightness. I'm curious if there is any ambient light in the room, which could be reason why you prefer such a bright screen.





diarhea said:


> how big a picture can the 5040ub throw at 10ft away?


https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm



Luminated67 said:


> I must be one of the lucky ones or happened to set up the lens memory correctly first time round because mine is within 3mm to the left on the horizontal plane and on the money on the vertical.


Outside US/Commonwealth they use the metric system.


----------



## Fox1966

noob00224 said:


> First of all I would recommend a bigger screen . Unless the seating is close, or you're satisfied with the current screen size. A larger screen will mean a dimmer image (with the same projector). _No way to fit a bigger screen size, and because we sit relatively close, the size feels about perfect for us_
> 
> I estimate the current lamp is ~70% of the lamps original brightness, or 1100 lumens (1600 original Eco). On Medium lamp right now (Cinema/Natural) it should be ~1600 lumens.
> 
> I do want to point out that 1600 lumens on an 100" 1.0 gain screen is 1600lm / 29.67sq ft = 53.92fL
> That's an 100" with 54fL or 185 nits. That is A LOT of brightness.
> The recommended value for lights off viewing is ~15fL.
> 
> 
> Some additional questions:
> What is the room like? _The room is a smaller room, about 15 by 15. It has windows on two sides, but the windows have curtains and the windows on one side have blinds as well_
> Color of walls and any ambient light? _Definitely have ambient light in the daytime, that is minimally controllable. The walls are a medium tan texturized color._
> Seating distance? _ Approximately 10 feet or so from the screen_
> Current projector distance, and can it be changed? - The reason for this is the HC3700/3800 losses ~8% of brightness from 100% zoom to 0% zoom, while the 5050UB looses ~27%. _ Projector distance is approximately 12 feet from the screen...not really any way to change this due to the room size_
> The 5050 does have a longer throw ratio, but still.
> 
> The 5050UB starts off with ~1400-1500 lumens (Eco/Medium lamp) in the bright modes (mounted closest to the screen / 100% zoom). The WCG filter reduces light output by 40-50%, so ~1000 lumens in High lamp, ~700 in Eco..
> This would be equivalent to the picture now (HC3700) on Natural/Cinema with Medium lamp.
> 
> The 5050UB can do ~2000 lumens in High lamp, without the filter, at 100% zoom. Consider the different db between the lamps:
> 
> 
> 
> Also consider that the HC3800 is ~15% less bright then the HC3700. _I didn't realize that the new HC3800 was less bright than the HC3700!_
> 
> The cost of the lamps is higher on the 5050UB. How many hours a day is the projector being used? _Used approximately 3 days a week, probably 4 hours or less at each viewing_
> 
> 
> How bright a screen should be is subjective. It could very well be that you could get used to the 5050UB's lower brightness. I'm curious if there is any ambient light in the room, which could be reason why you prefer such a bright screen. _Yep, definitely have ambient light during the day, but it's pretty rare that we use the projector during the middle of the day anyway...it's mostly late afternoon through the evening hours._
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> 
> 
> Outside US/Commonwealth they use the metric system.


I would likely go with the 3800 if it weren't for it's lack of P3 color space...I understand that makes a big difference when watching HDR...


----------



## noob00224

Fox1966 said:


> I would likely go with the 3800 if it weren't for it's lack of P3 color space...I understand that makes a big difference when watching HDR...


My vote is for the 5050UB because of the overall feature set. 

But I would not say WCG makes a big difference, it's not what primarily makes a good image, that's contrast and black level. I would rather watch a 1080p in SDR with good black level and contrast rather then a 4K HDR with poor contrast and black level. WCG is very secondary IMO.


In that room unfortunately the contrast advantage of the 5050 is reduced, except for in very dark scenes.

Even without ambient light, here's what wall reflections does to black level:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/

The image would benefit the most from treatment of the area closest to the screen, around 5' or so, including the ceiling, floor (rug), and screen wall.


A different screen will help, with or without room treatment. Here there are either manufactured grey or ALR screens, or paint mixes. Screen fabrics can be purchased for a very low price if a wooden frame can be built.

Grey screens will help very little during the day, what's important with all screens not just grey, is that light does not hit the screen directly. At night the improvement is slightly better.

ALR screens can do a lot more, but only if the projected image is bright. Where the image is dark the ambient light reveals the screen's shade. This is during the day. During the night the improvements will be greater.

One issue with ALR screens is the projector is required to be placed at a certain distance in order not to have artifacts. The distance is ~1.9x throw ratio. For an 100" screen that's 13.8' (lens to screen).

13.8' would result in a 1.78x throw ratio with the 5050 and 1.93x with the 3800, because the 5050 is longer.

This is what ~1.7x throw ratio looks like, with albeit a projector with lower lumens:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-s...-dila-lcos-cinegrey-5d-alr-screen-oh-god.html

If you look closely the center is slightly brighter then the edges. It's visible in the brighter images.


Note that video via the internet may not reflect reality.


This is an example with a TW6700 (non NA version of the HC3700) at a ~1.35x throw ratio: 
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...-uhd60-65-owners-thread-119.html#post59510494

Here I captured the hotspot, which is a white background, the worst case scenario:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...-uhd60-65-owners-thread-119.html#post59510522


ALR screens have a reduced viewing cone. For instance, the Cinegrey 3D has a half gain of 45 degrees. This means that when viewed from that angle the image is half as bright compared to the central axis.


I would still take the 5050UB and an ALR screen at ~1.78x throw ratio, despite whatever small artifacts that may be. The overall impact of the ALR screen will be very positive.
You can get a Cinegrey 3D which will have less artifacting and is cheaper. If budget is a concern and you can't get a framed Cinegrey 3D or build a frame + fabric, and require an electric screen I would actually get a HC3800 and ALR screen. Or maybe get the 5050 now and ALR later. The light rejecting features of the screens would, IMO, improve picture quality more then a 5050.


Lastly there's paints, which can be applied on the wall or even a drop down screen. They can be customized so no hotspots. Probably the most budget option.


----------



## Fox1966

noob00224 said:


> M
> I would still take the 5050UB and an ALR screen at ~1.78x throw ratio, despite whatever small artifacts that may be. The overall impact of the ALR screen will be very positive.
> You can get a Cinegrey 3D which will have less artifacting and is cheaper. If budget is a concern and you can't get a framed Cinegrey 3D or build a frame + fabric, and require an electric screen I would actually get a HC3800 and ALR screen. Or maybe get the 5050 now and ALR later. The light rejecting features of the screens would, IMO, improve picture quality more then a 5050.
> 
> 
> Lastly there's paints, which can be applied on the wall or even a drop down screen. They can be customized so no hotspots. Probably the most budget option.


Noob, thank you so much for all your help and advice. You've given me a lot to consider, and I learned some new things as well! I am leaning towards getting the 5050, and maybe a new screen sometime in the future. However, I will need a manual pulldown screen...I looked at Amazon to see what they offered like this in Cinegrey 3D or ALR, and didn't find a manual in 100 inches. I'm definitely going to research the screens a little more too...


----------



## noob00224

Fox1966 said:


> Noob, thank you so much for all your help and advice. You've given me a lot to consider, and I learned some new things as well! I am leaning towards getting the 5050, and maybe a new screen sometime in the future. However, I will need a manual pulldown screen...I looked at Amazon to see what they offered like this in Cinegrey 3D or ALR, and didn't find a manual in 100 inches. I'm definitely going to research the screens a little more too...


I don't believe there are any manual alr screens. Unless you paint a manual white screen.



Craig Peer said:


> Better screen materials ( other than basic matte white ) require ( in general ) tab tensioning, which in turn is only available in electric screens. Manual pull down all seem to be limited to basic screen materials. The exception was the now extinct Da Lite High Power screen. It too was a thicker, less prone to waves etc. material.


----------



## Fox1966

noob00224 said:


> I don't believe there are any manual alr screens. Unless you paint a manual white screen.


Thanks Noob, I wouldn't be opposed to an electric screen that dropped down, if the size/price is right. I just cannot do a fixed screen.


----------



## noob00224

Fox1966 said:


> Thanks Noob, I wouldn't be opposed to an electric screen that dropped down, if the size/price is right. I just cannot do a fixed screen.


XY Black Crystal 0.8 or Vividstorm ALR are lower price, but there have been quality control issues. XY does not have a store in the US, only China I think, so no consumer protections. 
I saw Vividstorm being sold via Amazon.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3005728-xyscreen-comparison-review-11.html
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/3065466-vivid-storm-tab-tension-grandview-2.html

Maybe wait for a sale on the 3D, or as I mentioned before, paint the screen you already have.


----------



## DavidinGA

Fox1966 said:


> I'm having a difficult time making up my mind between the 5050UB and the 3800. My room is not very light controlled, so I love the brightness of my current 3700. I have been running it in Eco mode, and recently bumped it up to Medium (the bulb is almost at 1400 hours now). My main reason for wanting to upgrade is to have 4k and HDR...the 3700 does not have these features. It would be a no brainer for me if the 5050UB had brightness that equaled the 3800....because I love absolutely everything else about the 5050UB, especially the better contrast and the ability to display the P3 color spectrum. But, I'm not sure how much I'm going to notice the decrease in lumens. I've been reading everything I can get my hands on, but keep flip flopping back and forth over which one I will enjoy the most.


I know this is the 5050 thread, but why not grab a refurb 5040 for less than $1200 instead? Your not gonna beat the bang for the buck performance there.

If you want to buy new and that's why your not considered the 5040,i would go with the 5050 to future proof yourself a bit. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Fox1966

DavidinGA said:


> I know this is the 5050 thread, but why not grab a refurb 5040 for less than $1200 instead? Your not gonna beat the bang for the buck performance there.
> 
> If you want to buy new and that's why your not considered the 5040,i would go with the 5050 to future proof yourself a bit.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Well, I just took the plunge and ordered the 5050. When I found out that I had a 10% off coupon at BestBuy for my Birthday, I felt that was a sign to just go ahead and jump in 

I want to thank all of you here that helped me to come to this conclusion. I learned quite a bit from several of you here, and I really appreciated all the help. I'm still going to be researching and learning as much as I can about this unit so I can hopefully get everything up and running nicely when it arrives.


----------



## Luminated67

Fox1966 said:


> Well, I just took the plunge and ordered the 5050. When I found out that I had a 10% off coupon at BestBuy for my Birthday, I felt that was a sign to just go ahead and jump in
> 
> I want to thank all of you here that helped me to come to this conclusion. I learned quite a bit from several of you here, and I really appreciated all the help. I'm still going to be researching and learning as much as I can about this unit so I can hopefully get everything up and running nicely when it arrives.


You’ll not be disappointed with your purchase because it truly is a superb projector that when calibrated can deliver amazing images.


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> You’ll not be disappointed with your purchase because it truly is a superb projector that when calibrated can deliver amazing images.


That shot of the camel really shows off the 3d effect that i dont see in more expensive projectors ! Thanks for the pics.


----------



## Luminated67

covsound1 said:


> That shot of the camel really shows off the 3d effect that i dont see in more expensive projectors ! Thanks for the pics.


Don’t know if it’s better than others at this but I do think it is exceptionally good at giving a sharp image.


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> Don’t know if it’s better than others at this but I do think it is exceptionally good at giving a sharp image.


I asked about this 3d effect in https://www.projectorcentral.com/Projector-Resolution-Shootout-Part-2.htm. Maybe a more correct term dimensionality as Rob Sabin pointed out.


----------



## ckronengold

Luminated67 said:


> Update on PC upgrade for storing movies.
> 
> I'm not technically minded in the slight so leaving this up to the brother who is but isn't a home theatre buff (not a great combination LOL) anyway he has suggested trying a Nas server to store all the movies which I don't have to connect directly to my AVR but connect through my patch panel in another part of the house?
> 
> Double dutch to me so will have to go with the flow. LOL


So where did you net out on this? (Sorry, took a couple of weeks off from checking the forums). I have a NAS (synology 1515+) connected to my patch panel. As they say, "This is the Way." 

The question becomes what device you use to access the movies stored on the NAS.I use my nVidia Shield.


----------



## Luminated67

covsound1 said:


> I asked about this 3d effect in https://www.projectorcentral.com/Projector-Resolution-Shootout-Part-2.htm. Maybe a more correct term dimensionality as Rob Sabin pointed out.


Interesting read from projectorcentral, I would have to agree with all of their findings especially between the Epson and the x7900 because it mirrors my own experience between my 9400 and the JVC e-shifters.

It also shows just how much detail is missed from normal viewing distances, because the N7 and the DLPs all deliver far more fine detail yet from my 1ft per 10” diagonal ratio I don’t see their superior resolution yet it’s clearly there once you move closer.

I think for me to make the switch to 4K I will have to recondition my brain to accept moving my seating position much closer than it currently is to justify this change otherwise it will a waste IMO.


----------



## Luminated67

ckronengold said:


> So where did you net out on this? (Sorry, took a couple of weeks off from checking the forums). I have a NAS (synology 1515+) connected to my patch panel. As they say, "This is the Way."
> 
> The question becomes what device you use to access the movies stored on the NAS.I use my nVidia Shield.


To be honest with you I haven’t had the time to even consider the direction I will take because I’m working seven days a week at the moment and when I finally do get home all I want to do is unwind and either watch some TV or a movie to get my mind cleared.

On the brief occasion I did discuss this with my brother he had suggested a NAS server that would be placed near my patch panel so I could watch movies everywhere in my house but as it isn’t where my AVR is this probably wouldn’t suit for MadVR as my AVR can’t accept movie through a network cable.

I think I will wait until this whole world situation changes before I take another look at this, but I reckon I need to have a chat with someone my knowledgeable than either I or my brother to see how I can make this work both for my home cinema setup and distribute it throughout the entire house as well.


----------



## ivanhoek

Luminated67 said:


> Interesting read from projectorcentral, I would have to agree with all of their findings especially between the Epson and the x7900 because it mirrors my own experience between my 9400 and the JVC e-shifters.
> 
> It also shows just how much detail is missed from normal viewing distances, because the N7 and the DLPs all deliver far more fine detail yet from my 1ft per 10” diagonal ratio I don’t see their superior resolution yet it’s clearly there once you move closer.
> 
> I think for me to make the switch to 4K I will have to recondition my brain to accept moving my seating position much closer than it currently is to justify this change otherwise it will a waste IMO.



Don’t tell anyone... but I got my son a cheap 720p TV... yes, not even 1080p!

And the thing produces a sharp, excellent picture. I don’t mind watching that cheap TV, and it’s main failing is that it’s smallish. (I’m used to my 120” screen)

We’ve become way too critical and make false distinctions about improvements that although real, hardly matter or are as big as we imagine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ckronengold

Luminated67 said:


> I think I will wait until this whole world situation changes before I take another look at this, but I reckon I need to have a chat with someone my knowledgeable than either I or my brother to see how I can make this work both for my home cinema setup and distribute it throughout the entire house as well.


It doesn't have to be overly complicated (and I don't want to go to far off-topic, so happy to help via PM). 
The NAS stores and/or acts as the server. You can definitely run Plex on a Synology NAS. All of my Roku and mobile devices stream from my NAS using Plex, and my Shield streams movies from the NAS through its own instance of Plex. Roku or other network streamer plugs in to the AVR and you're off to the races.


----------



## Luminated67

ckronengold said:


> It doesn't have to be overly complicated (and I don't want to go to far off-topic, so happy to help via PM).
> The NAS stores and/or acts as the server. You can definitely run Plex on a Synology NAS. All of my Roku and mobile devices stream from my NAS using Plex, and my Shield streams movies from the NAS through its own instance of Plex. Roku or other network streamer plugs in to the AVR and you're off to the races.


I have on old 4K AC Ryan units, would need to check if it would accept networking from a NAS server but the problem I still see is my ability to run MadVR this way, surely I need a proper PC between the NAS and my AVR to have MadVR?


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Ughhh I have had this projector for the better part of 6 months now and there are lots of things that are starting to annoy me with this.

I came from a sony HW40ES for reference. 

I am playing on a 138" screen now ( size is mentioned for my issues below )

I would say I game 80% or more on it and it was the main reason to upgrade. I wanted a 4K 60hz HDR capable projector and this is realistically the only one that checks all the boxes. 

but I cant STAND the blur ! the motion blur is so off putting and its really getting far more obvious and annoying on each passing day. Are there any solutions? I did set the PS4 to 1080P so I can utilize the frame interpolation capabilities and I find this much better. I can see a SLIGHT difference in resolution but the motion handling is drastic and quite an improvement over the native 4K. Is there a reason why I am not seeing a huge difference between 4K and 1080p content when gaming? any advice would be appreciated from people who use their 5050's for gaming. It feels like a waste to be gaming at such a low resolution considering the capabilities of this projector....and the main reasons for me to upgrade. 

Thanks !


----------



## jaredmwright

Chris Corcoran said:


> Ughhh I have had this projector for the better part of 6 months now and there are lots of things that are starting to annoy me with this.
> 
> 
> 
> I came from a sony HW40ES for reference.
> 
> 
> 
> I am playing on a 138" screen now ( size is mentioned for my issues below )
> 
> 
> 
> I would say I game 80% or more on it and it was the main reason to upgrade. I wanted a 4K 60hz HDR capable projector and this is realistically the only one that checks all the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> but I cant STAND the blur ! the motion blur is so off putting and its really getting far more obvious and annoying on each passing day. Are there any solutions? I did set the PS4 to 1080P so I can utilize the frame interpolation capabilities and I find this much better. I can see a SLIGHT difference in resolution but the motion handling is drastic and quite an improvement over the native 4K. Is there a reason why I am not seeing a huge difference between 4K and 1080p content when gaming? any advice would be appreciated from people who use their 5050's for gaming. It feels like a waste to be gaming at such a low resolution considering the capabilities of this projector....and the main reasons for me to upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks !


I game on my Nvidia Shield and don't notice this at all on my 6050. The picture is clear and great in 4K. Maybe someone else has some ideas.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## kincade

I finally have my 6050ub set up and have been watching it for a week, and although I'm only broadcasting on a wall for now I'm amazed at how good the picture is! So happy I decided to go with a projector and not a panel display.

That said, I've quickly figured out that I have a LOT to learn about how to properly set up the display and honestly feeling a bit overwhelmed, and I'm new to both 4k and HDR. Would any of you be willing to answer a few questions for me about this?



First, is there an Epson 5050/6050 setup FAQ somewhere out there? In particular I don't know which of the Epson modes are preferred for each type of viewing. I watch a DVR via Tivo, Apple TV 4k, and Pioneer LX500. The Epson manual doesn't really give a guideline on what mode is best suited for each type of viewing. Do these modes simply change the upscaling and brightness?
There are a lot of settings in each device for 4/4/2/2 pulldown (going from memory, those might be wrong) and the manual doesn't explain how to make sure these interact properly. Is there a rule of thumb here or a FAQ?
With respect to HDR, the display looks AWESOME most of the time, but during our first HDR movie (Frozen 2, thanks to 2 little girls), the display was so dim it was almost not enjoyable. Is there a trick to the HDR settings with 4k discs?
Does the brightness mode (eco, etc) only change the lamp brightness and fan noise, or does it also interact with modes?
Lastly, to calibrate the projector should I be using the Spears and Munsil Disc? I see it doesn't get great reviews (very advanced) which worries me but I don't see any alternatives.
Thank you all for any input you can give.


----------



## noob00224

Fox1966 said:


> Well, I just took the plunge and ordered the 5050. When I found out that I had a 10% off coupon at BestBuy for my Birthday, I felt that was a sign to just go ahead and jump in
> 
> I want to thank all of you here that helped me to come to this conclusion. I learned quite a bit from several of you here, and I really appreciated all the help. I'm still going to be researching and learning as much as I can about this unit so I can hopefully get everything up and running nicely when it arrives.


The projector weighs in at around 25lbs., so make sure the current mount is capable of holding it.




Chris Corcoran said:


> Ughhh I have had this projector for the better part of 6 months now and there are lots of things that are starting to annoy me with this.
> 
> I came from a sony HW40ES for reference.
> 
> I am playing on a 138" screen now ( size is mentioned for my issues below )
> 
> I would say I game 80% or more on it and it was the main reason to upgrade. I wanted a 4K 60hz HDR capable projector and this is realistically the only one that checks all the boxes.
> 
> but I cant STAND the blur ! the motion blur is so off putting and its really getting far more obvious and annoying on each passing day. Are there any solutions? I did set the PS4 to 1080P so I can utilize the frame interpolation capabilities and I find this much better. I can see a SLIGHT difference in resolution but the motion handling is drastic and quite an improvement over the native 4K. Is there a reason why I am not seeing a huge difference between 4K and 1080p content when gaming? any advice would be appreciated from people who use their 5050's for gaming. It feels like a waste to be gaming at such a low resolution considering the capabilities of this projector....and the main reasons for me to upgrade.
> 
> Thanks !


DLP/LCoS do have better motion handling then 3LCD.

Not sure if I understand, you're enabling motion interpolation when in 1080p? I was under the impression MI was only available when using 1080p24fps, not 1080p60fps.

Is the motion blur present in all games? I'm referring to games that can put out actually 60fps on the PS4.

What about movies, is there motion blur in 4K 60Hz in these clips?
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/187-...man-ultra-hd-blu-ray-review.html#post59088520


----------



## biglen

jaredmwright said:


> I game on my Nvidia Shield and don't notice this at all on my 6050. The picture is clear and great in 4K. Maybe someone else has some ideas.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I agree. I game all the time on my PS4, playing Call of Duty. I've NEVER had any motion blur when gaming. My son has also played video games on my 5050, using his $2000 gaming laptop, and is blown away by the performance. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

rekbones said:


> Get a humidifier. It only takes about 40 volts to start playing havoc with electronics. When you feel/see an arc its in the thousands of volts. Just because you don't feel an arc doesn't mean it didn't arc.


What should be the humidity level? On the internet there's a bunch of recommended values.


----------



## rekbones

noob00224 said:


> What should be the humidity level? On the internet there's a bunch of recommended values.


I work in large Data Centers and they keep them around 50%+ if they go below that alarms start going off. In my own home about 2000 sf I have never measured it but do run at least 3 gallons a day through the humidifier. I sure I am well under 50% and get occasional static but not bad. I have base board hot water heat but if you have forced air it can be a lot dryer.


----------



## Pretorian

kincade said:


> I finally have my 6050ub set up and have been watching it for a week, and although I'm only broadcasting on a wall for now I'm amazed at how good the picture is! So happy I decided to go with a projector and not a panel display.
> 
> That said, I've quickly figured out that I have a LOT to learn about how to properly set up the display and honestly feeling a bit overwhelmed, and I'm new to both 4k and HDR. Would any of you be willing to answer a few questions for me about this?
> 
> 
> 
> First, is there an Epson 5050/6050 setup FAQ somewhere out there? In particular I don't know which of the Epson modes are preferred for each type of viewing. I watch a DVR via Tivo, Apple TV 4k, and Pioneer LX500. The Epson manual doesn't really give a guideline on what mode is best suited for each type of viewing. Do these modes simply change the upscaling and brightness?
> There are a lot of settings in each device for 4/4/2/2 pulldown (going from memory, those might be wrong) and the manual doesn't explain how to make sure these interact properly. Is there a rule of thumb here or a FAQ?
> With respect to HDR, the display looks AWESOME most of the time, but during our first HDR movie (Frozen 2, thanks to 2 little girls), the display was so dim it was almost not enjoyable. Is there a trick to the HDR settings with 4k discs?
> Does the brightness mode (eco, etc) only change the lamp brightness and fan noise, or does it also interact with modes?
> Lastly, to calibrate the projector should I be using the Spears and Munsil Disc? I see it doesn't get great reviews (very advanced) which worries me but I don't see any alternatives.
> Thank you all for any input you can give.


And I have had mine 6050 for maybe six months. I recently upgraded my receiver so I can watch 4k with HDR and all but would really much like a crash course on how to set it up?
I did a setup before 4k HDR with SDR viewing but I wonder if I should do this again but for HDR viewing and how I should think with all the different modes? 
Should I have one setup for SDR and when I play HDR content I change to another setting?


----------



## deemac76

Hello all I'm finalizing my decision to purchase of the 6050 to replace my UHD50 in my theater. My space is 13.5' x 21' x 9' with a max location for the projector about 18' and my seating is at 10' and 14' now but I probably squeeze another 1.5' for both if need be. Right now I have a 120" 16x9 elite screen and I'm looking to go with a 150" scope screen which should have the same height as what I have now. I'm doing a diy screen with materials from Carl's place so I could change the size based on recommendations. After going thru some calculators and reading up on forums it seems like the 150" matched with the 6050 would work fine in my space. Can anyone help me confirm this before I pull the trigger on the projector. I appreciate the help in advance.


----------



## jaredmwright

deemac76 said:


> Hello all I'm finalizing my decision to purchase of the 6050 to replace my UHD50 in my theater. My space is 13.5' x 21' x 9' with a max location for the projector about 18' and my seating is at 10' and 14' now but I probably squeeze another 1.5' for both if need be. Right now I have a 120" 16x9 elite screen and I'm looking to go with a 150" scope screen which should have the same height as what I have now. I'm doing a diy screen with materials from Carl's place so I could change the size based on recommendations. After going thru some calculators and reading up on forums it seems like the 150" matched with the 6050 would work fine in my space. Can anyone help me confirm this before I pull the trigger on the projector. I appreciate the help in advance.


My room sounds very similar in dimensions and height and I have a 6050 with 175" Carl DIY screen. It works great and you should be good with this setup.

Good luck, you won't be disappointed.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

deemac76 said:


> Hello all I'm finalizing my decision to purchase of the 6050 to replace my UHD50 in my theater. My space is 13.5' x 21' x 9' with a max location for the projector about 18' and my seating is at 10' and 14' now but I probably squeeze another 1.5' for both if need be. Right now I have a 120" 16x9 elite screen and I'm looking to go with a 150" scope screen which should have the same height as what I have now. I'm doing a diy screen with materials from Carl's place so I could change the size based on recommendations. After going thru some calculators and reading up on forums it seems like the 150" matched with the 6050 would work fine in my space. Can anyone help me confirm this before I pull the trigger on the projector. I appreciate the help in advance.


From 18ft away on a 150" scope screen you should have upwards of 35fL which is probably more than enough for HDR. You are making a serious jump in width of 34 inches compared to your current screen, that's almost 3 foot wider.... this will be a completely difference experience.


----------



## noob00224

deemac76 said:


> Hello all I'm finalizing my decision to purchase of the 6050 to replace my UHD50 in my theater. My space is 13.5' x 21' x 9' with a max location for the projector about 18' and my seating is at 10' and 14' now but I probably squeeze another 1.5' for both if need be. Right now I have a 120" 16x9 elite screen and I'm looking to go with a 150" scope screen which should have the same height as what I have now. I'm doing a diy screen with materials from Carl's place so I could change the size based on recommendations. After going thru some calculators and reading up on forums it seems like the 150" matched with the 6050 would work fine in my space. Can anyone help me confirm this before I pull the trigger on the projector. I appreciate the help in advance.


Calculations and reading may not match the experience in real life. 150" scope from 10' might be too close, but you'll have to try it out.

In terms of brightness it should be fine.


----------



## Ladeback

noob00224 said:


> Calculations and reading may not match the experience in real life. 150" scope from 10' might be too close, but you'll have to try it out.
> 
> In terms of brightness it should be fine.


He might be ok at 10', but Screen Invitations recommend around 11' from a 120" 16:9 and a 150" 2.35:1 screen. I sit about 10.5' from my Elite 120" screen and would probably be good with a 150" 2.35:1 screen at the distance, but others might not.



Here is is what I used to size it.


https://www.screeninnovations.com/tools/screen-size-calculator/ 

Here is what I use to compare screen sizes.

http://www.displaywars.com/150-inch-235x1-vs-0,1-inch-16x9


----------



## noob00224

Ladeback said:


> He might be ok at 10', but Screen Invitations recommend around 11' from a 120" 16:9 and a 150" 2.35:1 screen. I sit about 10.5' from my Elite 120" screen and would probably be good with a 150" 2.35:1 screen at the distance, but others might not.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is is what I used to size it.
> 
> 
> https://www.screeninnovations.com/tools/screen-size-calculator/
> 
> Here is what I use to compare screen sizes.
> 
> http://www.displaywars.com/150-inch-235x1-vs-0,1-inch-16x9


There's no replacement for seeing it in person.


----------



## deemac76

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I have the ability to move my seats back a foot or two if need be and also move the projector forward as well. The 18' was the most I can set the projector back from the screen to accommodate the size. My 120" viewing experience is fine from 10.5' so I guess that's why I figured to go with the 150" since it shares the same height but wider. I appreciate the info guys.


----------



## Ladeback

deemac76 said:


> Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I have the ability to move my seats back a foot or two if need be and also move the projector forward as well. The 18' was the most I can set the projector back from the screen to accommodate the size. My 120" viewing experience is fine from 10.5' so I guess that's why I figured to go with the 150" since it shares the same height but wider. I appreciate the info guys.


Sounds like a plan.


----------



## Cpete285

Hi everyone,

Thinking about purchasing a 5050. It’s going to have to go on a shelf and I’m just curious as to what the footprint was for the “feet”. I know the projector itself is about 17 inches deep but I see that there would be a little bit of overhang so to speak. 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## noob00224

Cpete285 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Thinking about purchasing a 5050. It’s going to have to go on a shelf and I’m just curious as to what the footprint was for the “feet”. I know the projector itself is about 17 inches deep but I see that there would be a little bit of overhang so to speak.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Page 19:
https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56386.pdf

I remember a post where someone asked about feet dimensions, or distance between feet, but can't remember if it was this thread or the 5040 one.


----------



## Cpete285

Thanks a ton, exactly what I was looking for


----------



## Northern_Lights

*Input lag*

Does anyone know the difference in input lag when using Fine vs. Fast processing modes?


----------



## Macondawg

I hope thisis the right forum for this question - I wonder if I have a setting wrong on my projector.

I have a Denon AVR-X3600H connected to an Epson 6050UB projector, installed professionally in October 2019. They are about 25 feet apart. Everything worked great for a few months and then the video went out. I replaced the HDMI cable and it worked great for about a week. The company replaced the cable again and it works for about 1 minute. When I start the system (with my Control 4) it works for just a minute. Using the Roku, I can see the screen saver but as soon as I try to go to Netflix or any actual service, the screen goes black and it says no HDMI source.

Is this a cable problem, AVR issue or projector issue? Is there a setting that might be wrong and causing this? What are the steps to figure it out? I lost faith in the HT install company to get this right


----------



## fakerus

Macondawg said:


> I hope thisis the right forum for this question - I wonder if I have a setting wrong on my projector.
> 
> I have a Denon AVR-X3600H connected to an Epson 6050UB projector, installed professionally in October 2019. They are about 25 feet apart. Everything worked great for a few months and then the video went out. I replaced the HDMI cable and it worked great for about a week. The company replaced the cable again and it works for about 1 minute. When I start the system (with my Control 4) it works for just a minute. Using the Roku, I can see the screen saver but as soon as I try to go to Netflix or any actual service, the screen goes black and it says no HDMI source.
> 
> Is this a cable problem, AVR issue or projector issue? Is there a setting that might be wrong and causing this? What are the steps to figure it out? I lost faith in the HT install company to get this right



Have you tried bypassing the Denon and plugging the hdmi directly to the source to see if it works? Try multiple sources to make sure it’s not the Roku. If it works It’s most likely an issue with the AVR. Try that first, if that doesn’t work try HDMI 2 input on the PJ. This solved a couple of issues for me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Azekecse

Macondawg said:


> I hope thisis the right forum for this question - I wonder if I have a setting wrong on my projector.
> 
> I have a Denon AVR-X3600H connected to an Epson 6050UB projector, installed professionally in October 2019. They are about 25 feet apart. Everything worked great for a few months and then the video went out. I replaced the HDMI cable and it worked great for about a week. The company replaced the cable again and it works for about 1 minute. When I start the system (with my Control 4) it works for just a minute. Using the Roku, I can see the screen saver but as soon as I try to go to Netflix or any actual service, the screen goes black and it says no HDMI source.
> 
> Is this a cable problem, AVR issue or projector issue? Is there a setting that might be wrong and causing this? What are the steps to figure it out? I lost faith in the HT install company to get this right


I thought I read somewhere that the Denon AVR and and the Roku don't play well together, due to ARC/CEC they need to be disabled, not 100% sure though.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## fredworld

Macondawg said:


> I hope thisis the right forum for this question - I wonder if I have a setting wrong on my projector.
> 
> I have a Denon AVR-X3600H connected to an Epson 6050UB projector, installed professionally in October 2019. They are about 25 feet apart. Everything worked great for a few months and then the video went out. I replaced the HDMI cable and it worked great for about a week. The company replaced the cable again and it works for about 1 minute. When I start the system (with my Control 4) it works for just a minute. Using the Roku, I can see the screen saver but as soon as I try to go to Netflix or any actual service, the screen goes black and it says no HDMI source.
> 
> Is this a cable problem, AVR issue or projector issue? Is there a setting that might be wrong and causing this? What are the steps to figure it out? I lost faith in the HT install company to get this right



In addition to the suggestions previously posed by others, I have a few additional thoughts:
(1) it could be a handshake issue with your HDMI cable, particularly because of its length. You might need a fiber optic cable or a powered HDMI cable (the latter resolved my similar issue). I'm using* this 35' HDMI cable* with no issues except for the usual sometimse scary 5-10 handshake delay. Others use something similar like the* Blue Jeans*.

(2) check ALL of your input assignments in your Denon to be sure all inputs are labeled properly for the selected sources (that also resolved a similar problem I had).
(3) Also, be sure EDID is set to NORMAL and HDMI Link is "Off" in the projector.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Northern_Lights said:


> Does anyone know the difference in input lag when using Fine vs. Fast processing modes?


It's claimed that there is no difference, I have not measured it as of yet but I recall reading that it has been reported to Epson (there is supposed to be a significant difference according to spec.).

- Jason


----------



## Northern_Lights

DaGamePimp said:


> It's claimed that there is no difference, I have not measured it as of yet but I recall reading that it has been reported to Epson (there is supposed to be a significant difference according to spec.).
> 
> - Jason



This seems likely, since I perceive no difference in image quality or input lag regardless of this setting. Seems to do absolutely nothing. This is a shame; the input lag seems good in either mode, which makes me wonder if all users are missing out on what should be an improvement to image quality in Fine mode. Are we all effectively running our 5050s in Game mode at all times whether we like it or not?


----------



## covsound1

Northern_Lights said:


> This seems likely, since I perceive no difference in image quality or input lag regardless of this setting. Seems to do absolutely nothing. This is a shame; the input lag seems good in either mode, which makes me wonder if all users are missing out on what should be an improvement to image quality in Fine mode. Are we all effectively running our 5050s in Game mode at all times whether we like it or not?


Hello fine and fast only effects 2k noise reduction and 2 3 1 pull down. It will not have any effect on 4k. No game mode in the epson 5050/6050.


----------



## Macondawg

Macondawg said:


> I hope thisis the right forum for this question - I wonder if I have a setting wrong on my projector.
> 
> I have a Denon AVR-X3600H connected to an Epson 6050UB projector, installed professionally in October 2019. They are about 25 feet apart. Everything worked great for a few months and then the video went out. I replaced the HDMI cable and it worked great for about a week. The company replaced the cable again and it works for about 1 minute. When I start the system (with my Control 4) it works for just a minute. Using the Roku, I can see the screen saver but as soon as I try to go to Netflix or any actual service, the screen goes black and it says no HDMI source.
> 
> Is this a cable problem, AVR issue or projector issue? Is there a setting that might be wrong and causing this? What are the steps to figure it out? I lost faith in the HT install company to get this right


Following up - the installer company owner came out today. The guys had connected the HDMI to input 2 on the projector but never changed it on Control 4. When the equipment would start it would show the source for a few seconds until it switched back to input 1 as programmed. I would never have thought to check that. Seems to be working great again


----------



## biglen

Northern_Lights said:


> This seems likely, since I perceive no difference in image quality or input lag regardless of this setting. Seems to do absolutely nothing. This is a shame; the input lag seems good in either mode, which makes me wonder if all users are missing out on what should be an improvement to image quality in Fine mode. Are we all effectively running our 5050s in Game mode at all times whether we like it or not?


There is no Game Mode on the 5050. Gaming is excellent on this projector. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> There is no Game Mode on the 5050. Gaming is excellent on this projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I second this, excellent gaming choice. Use Nvidia Shield with great results.


Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Question - Does the 5050UB support an SDR/BT2020 signal? Or is this more for a JVC projector? I'm sure it's answered here but a search brought up too many result that didn't answer.


----------



## Mrkazador

MidnightWatcher said:


> Question - Does the 5050UB support an SDR/BT2020 signal? Or is this more for a JVC projector? I'm sure it's answered here but a search brought up too many result that didn't answer.


Yes! I'm using madvr with a RTX 2080 and the projector says its receiving SDR BT2020.


----------



## MidnightWatcher

Mrkazador said:


> Yes! I'm using madvr with a RTX 2080 and the projector says its receiving SDR BT2020.


Cool, so the 5050 would accept an SDR/BT2020 from a Panasonic UB420/820, though the Digital Cinema mode with the filter engaged would be required to take advantage of the wider color gamut, correct?


----------



## Mrkazador

MidnightWatcher said:


> Cool, so the 5050 would accept an SDR/BT2020 from a Panasonic UB420/820, though the Digital Cinema mode with the filter engaged would be required to take advantage of the wider color gamut, correct?


I don't know about the bluray player but you can use any picture preset when receiving SDR BT2020. Natural for a brighter picture or Digital Cinema for better colors.


----------



## DaGamePimp

MidnightWatcher said:


> Cool, so the 5050 would accept an SDR/BT2020 from a Panasonic UB420/820, though the Digital Cinema mode with the filter engaged would be required to take advantage of the wider color gamut, correct?


It handles SDR/BT2020 from a Panasonic 820 just fine, and yes for maximum coverage of DCI-P3 you would need to use the filter (just be aware there is significant lumen reduction with the WCG filter engaged).

- Jason


----------



## jorisdriesen

Mrkazador said:


> Yes! I'm using madvr with a RTX 2080 and the projector says its receiving SDR BT2020.


Same here, but my projector says it's receiving SDR BT709 instead of 2020. Do you maybe know which setting in madVR I might have set wrong ?


----------



## mach250

Can you use ethernet to modify projector settings or is it only for network projection? 


Found https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd55716.pdf and it doesn't mention a GUI type interface so I'm going to say no


.


----------



## Sekosche

Hey all, 
I’m finishing up a small dedicated media room (1,400 cu ft) that’s fully light controlled with black felt curtains on the doors and windows, walls/ceiling painted very dark, etc. I had an Epson 2150 and 3700 in my last shared space and both worked well enough, but being in a non light controlled room for the last 5 years, I never bothered to try a more premium PJ with deeper blacks. The black level was so poor on a white screen from those PJ’s that I quickly bought a Silver Ticket high contrast screen and that did help some.

I haven’t seen how my current PJ’s fair in the new room, but I’m guessing the 5050 is still a huge step up. I have read most all the reviews for it, and a small chunk of this thread. I do game on a PS4 pro, stream a lot of Disney+ and Netflix, and watch a lot of UHD movies (for the Atmos track alone), but my main PJ isn’t yet able to accept a 4K input, which is another reason I’m looking to finally upgrade.

I‘ll be using the 24 month @ 0% APR on my BB card, so the initial cost isn’t an issue. I just wonder if the Epson 4010 would work well enough instead for $1K less; that unit seems to get a lot less love around here, though still has very solid consumer reviews. I’m just not sure the 4010 would be enough of an upgrade from the 3700 to make the trade up worthwhile. Using Epson’s specs, the 4010’s contrast is 200,000:1 with the 3700 rated at 70,000:1, so roughly three times the contrast should create a considerably deeper black than I’ve seen to date and be a decent upgrade. I know the 4010 isn’t known for it’s inky blacks, but most the reviews say in its digital cinema mode that it displays a solid enough black level.

Due to the far from light controlled previous room, I’ve spent most my focus the last few years on building a killer audio system and tinkered with DIY subs and speakers a lot, and now I’d like to finally have a projector with the quality to match, so that feeling has me leaning toward the 5050UB.

On a semi impulse to get the new media room going, I ordered an Epson 4010 from Bestbuy yesterday to pick up locally but cancelled it a couple hours later after noticing the 15% restocking fee for PJ’s upon return. The 5040UB isn’t available for another week to ship, but I know it would be worth the short wait, just not sure I want to spend another $1K right now in this economy. I’m almost certain I would be largely satisfied with the 4010’s image, but then why upgrade at all unless it’s a substantial and noticeable change.

I feel like I’ve answered most my questions here, but am curious if anyone has viewed the 4010 and 5050 in a light controlled environment and their opinions on it.

Thanks,
Scott


----------



## rekbones

Sekosche said:


> Hey all,
> I’m finishing up a small dedicated media room (1,400 cu ft) that’s fully light controlled with black felt curtains on the doors and windows, walls/ceiling painted very dark, etc. I had an Epson 2150 and 3700 in my last shared space and both worked well enough, but being in a non light controlled room for the last 5 years, I never bothered to try a more premium PJ with deeper blacks. The black level was so poor on a white screen from those PJ’s that I quickly bought a Silver Ticket high contrast screen and that did help some.
> 
> I haven’t seen how my current PJ’s fair in the new room, but I’m guessing the 5050 is still a huge step up. I have read most all the reviews for it, and a small chunk of this thread. I do game on a PS4 pro, stream a lot of Disney+ and Netflix, and watch a lot of UHD movies (for the Atmos track alone), but my main PJ isn’t yet able to accept a 4K input, which is another reason I’m looking to finally upgrade.
> 
> I‘ll be using the 24 month @ 0% APR on my BB card, so the initial cost isn’t an issue. I just wonder if the Epson 4010 would work well enough instead for $1K less; that unit seems to get a lot less love around here, though still has very solid consumer reviews. I’m just not sure the 4010 would be enough of an upgrade from the 3700 to make the trade up worthwhile. Using Epson’s specs, the 4010’s contrast is 200,000:1 with the 3700 rated at 70,000:1, so roughly three times the contrast should create a considerably deeper black than I’ve seen to date and be a decent upgrade. I know the 4010 isn’t known for it’s inky blacks, but most the reviews say in its digital cinema mode that it displays a solid enough black level.
> 
> Due to the far from light controlled previous room, I’ve spent most my focus the last few years on building a killer audio system and tinkered with DIY subs and speakers a lot, and now I’d like to finally have a projector with the quality to match, so that feeling has me leaning toward the 5050UB.
> 
> On a semi impulse to get the new media room going, I ordered an Epson 4010 from Bestbuy yesterday to pick up locally but cancelled it a couple hours later after noticing the 15% restocking fee for PJ’s upon return. The 5040UB isn’t available for another week to ship, but I know it would be worth the short wait, just not sure I want to spend another $1K right now in this economy. I’m almost certain I would be largely satisfied with the 4010’s image, but then why upgrade at all unless it’s a substantial and noticeable change.
> 
> I feel like I’ve answered most my questions here, but am curious if anyone has viewed the 4010 and 5050 in a light controlled environment and their opinions on it.
> 
> Thanks,
> Scott


The 4010's contrast is only a little better then the 3700 and is still crippled with the 10Gb HDMI. Especially if your streaming 4K you need the 18Gb HDMI. Only the 5050 has 18Gb HDMI and for a dedicated room it's the top recommendation of the Epson's. Ignore the manufacture's advertised contrast as those figures aren't realistic. If you can deal with the 10Gb HDMI the refurbed 5040 is a better buy over the 4010 in a fully light controlled room.


----------



## Mrkazador

jorisdriesen said:


> Same here, but my projector says it's receiving SDR BT709 instead of 2020. Do you maybe know which setting in madVR I might have set wrong ?


Devices - "Your projector" - calibration: 

Check, "this display is already calibrated"
the display is calibrated to the following primaries/gamut: BT. 2020
Check, "report BT.2020 to display (Nvidia only)"


----------



## Luminated67

Sekosche said:


> Hey all,
> I’m finishing up a small dedicated media room (1,400 cu ft) that’s fully light controlled with black felt curtains on the doors and windows, walls/ceiling painted very dark, etc. I had an Epson 2150 and 3700 in my last shared space and both worked well enough, but being in a non light controlled room for the last 5 years, I never bothered to try a more premium PJ with deeper blacks. The black level was so poor on a white screen from those PJ’s that I quickly bought a Silver Ticket high contrast screen and that did help some.
> 
> I haven’t seen how my current PJ’s fair in the new room, but I’m guessing the 5050 is still a huge step up. I have read most all the reviews for it, and a small chunk of this thread. I do game on a PS4 pro, stream a lot of Disney+ and Netflix, and watch a lot of UHD movies (for the Atmos track alone), but my main PJ isn’t yet able to accept a 4K input, which is another reason I’m looking to finally upgrade.
> 
> I‘ll be using the 24 month @ 0% APR on my BB card, so the initial cost isn’t an issue. I just wonder if the Epson 4010 would work well enough instead for $1K less; that unit seems to get a lot less love around here, though still has very solid consumer reviews. I’m just not sure the 4010 would be enough of an upgrade from the 3700 to make the trade up worthwhile. Using Epson’s specs, the 4010’s contrast is 200,000:1 with the 3700 rated at 70,000:1, so roughly three times the contrast should create a considerably deeper black than I’ve seen to date and be a decent upgrade. I know the 4010 isn’t known for it’s inky blacks, but most the reviews say in its digital cinema mode that it displays a solid enough black level.
> 
> Due to the far from light controlled previous room, I’ve spent most my focus the last few years on building a killer audio system and tinkered with DIY subs and speakers a lot, and now I’d like to finally have a projector with the quality to match, so that feeling has me leaning toward the 5050UB.
> 
> On a semi impulse to get the new media room going, I ordered an Epson 4010 from Bestbuy yesterday to pick up locally but cancelled it a couple hours later after noticing the 15% restocking fee for PJ’s upon return. The 5040UB isn’t available for another week to ship, but I know it would be worth the short wait, just not sure I want to spend another $1K right now in this economy. I’m almost certain I would be largely satisfied with the 4010’s image, but then why upgrade at all unless it’s a substantial and noticeable change.
> 
> I feel like I’ve answered most my questions here, but am curious if anyone has viewed the 4010 and 5050 in a light controlled environment and their opinions on it.
> 
> Thanks,
> Scott


I’m not going to try and push you into the more expensive 5050 because only you can decide if it’s worth the extra, what I will tell you is it definitely out performs the 4010 and the 5040 though less so with many improvements centring on better e-shift and it’s ability to do 60Hz 4K HDR plus it’s HDR handling knocks spots off the 5040.

What I will say it in the right room which the right source material and properly calibrated it throws an image that will completely blow you away, why do I know this well that’s simple I’m blown away just about every time I watch a movie.

Check out these Dropbox links and you’ll see what I mean.

Jumanji

Hacksaw Ridge

Kong

Pirates of the Caribbean

Gemini Man

This final one is a good example of its blacks

Hacksaw Ridge


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> I’m not going to try and push you into the more expensive 5050 because only you can decide if it’s worth the extra, what I will tell you is it definitely out performs the 4010 and the 5040 though less so with many improvements centring on better e-shift and it’s ability to do 60Hz 4K HDR plus it’s HDR handling knocks spots off the 5040.
> 
> 
> 
> What I will say it in the right room which the right source material and properly calibrated it throws an image that will completely blow you away, why do I know this well that’s simple I’m blown away just about every time I watch a movie.
> 
> 
> 
> Check out these Dropbox links and you’ll see what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> Jumanji
> 
> 
> 
> Hacksaw Ridge
> 
> 
> 
> Kong
> 
> 
> 
> Pirates of the Caribbean
> 
> 
> 
> Gemini Man
> 
> 
> 
> This final one is a good example of its blacks
> 
> 
> 
> Hacksaw Ridge


I'm STILL blown away by the image my 5050 produces too, after owning it for close to a year now. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sekosche

Luminated67 said:


> I’m not going to try and push you into the more expensive 5050 because only you can decide if it’s worth the extra, what I will tell you is it definitely out performs the 4010 and the 5040 though less so with many improvements centring on better e-shift and it’s ability to do 60Hz 4K HDR plus it’s HDR handling knocks spots off the 5040.
> 
> What I will say it in the right room which the right source material and properly calibrated it throws an image that will completely blow you away, why do I know this well that’s simple I’m blown away just about every time I watch a movie.
> 
> Check out these Dropbox links and you’ll see what I mean.
> 
> Jumanji
> 
> Hacksaw Ridge
> 
> Kong
> 
> Pirates of the Caribbean
> 
> Gemini Man
> 
> This final one is a good example of its blacks
> 
> Hacksaw Ridge



Wow, those are some incredible screen grabs!

I think it’s time I finally invest more into the picture, so I can have that all around wow factor. It seems silly to have so much more dedicated to the audio and finally get a media room to cheap out on the PJ. And I want a bit more future proofing for video games and streaming. Better HDR than those older models will just be the icing on the cake.

I definitely will get the 5050UB, but after a horrendous freak hail storm today, I may have to wait a touch longer to be safe. Both vehicles were parked outside during golf ball to baseball size hail in the area, so there’s $1K less going to insurance deductibles...

It’s been a crazy year for sure.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Sekosche said:


> Wow, those are some incredible screen grabs!
> 
> I think it’s time I finally invest more into the picture, so I can have that all around wow factor. It seems silly to have so much more dedicated to the audio and finally get a media room to cheap out on the PJ. And I want a bit more future proofing for video games and streaming. Better HDR than those older models will just be the icing on the cake.
> 
> I definitely will get the 5050UB, but after a horrendous freak hail storm today, I may have to wait a touch longer to be safe. Both vehicles were parked outside during golf ball to baseball size hail in the area, so there’s $1K less going to insurance deductibles...
> 
> It’s been a crazy year for sure.


Sorry to hear that. That really stinks. Best Buy sells the 5050 and has 24 months interest free financing. Just saying. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

skylarlove1999 said:


> Sorry to hear that. That really stinks. Best Buy sells the 5050 and has 24 months interest free financing. Just saying.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


6050ub here, it's like a real Cinema at home.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## HAMMo7

Has anybody heard anything about whether Epson will introduce a replacement for the 4010 or 5050 at CEDIA this year?


----------



## Sekosche

skylarlove1999 said:


> Sorry to hear that. That really stinks. Best Buy sells the 5050 and has 24 months interest free financing. Just saying.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Oh the BB 24 month financing is definitely the plan, but I haven’t broke it to the wife yet and after today’s unfortunate events I should probably wait a tick...or get her a really nice Mother’s Day present from the kids. Should probably make an attempt to sell my last two PJ’s and some of my DIY gear that would earn some WAF points, because I’m terrible about hanging onto tech.


----------



## Luminated67

Sekosche said:


> Wow, those are some incredible screen grabs!
> 
> I think it’s time I finally invest more into the picture, so I can have that all around wow factor. It seems silly to have so much more dedicated to the audio and finally get a media room to cheap out on the PJ. And I want a bit more future proofing for video games and streaming. Better HDR than those older models will just be the icing on the cake.


When I was looking at the time for a new projector I knew I needed to spend my money wisely because I don't use the projector that much, even 16 months after buying the Epson I had less that 340 hours on the bulb. This is why I bought the Epson rather than the at the time JVC x5900/7900, the epson handles HDR out of the box better than either of those models and IMO after seeing the x5900 in action the Epson is also throws a slightly crisper image. I have no doubt the x5900 has better blacks but viewed in isolation I did get the impression it was night and day better, so unless you viewed both in a split screen you wouldn't feel short changed by buying the Epson.



Sekosche said:


> I definitely will get the 5050UB, but after a horrendous freak hail storm today, I may have to wait a touch longer to be safe. Both vehicles were parked outside during golf ball to baseball size hail in the area, so there’s $1K less going to insurance deductibles...
> 
> It’s been a crazy year for sure.


That's awful, compared to us here in the UK you guys do get more extreme weather but you also get on average much better weather too, swing and roundabouts I suppose.


----------



## skylarlove1999

HAMMo7 said:


> Has anybody heard anything about whether Epson will introduce a replacement for the 4010 or 5050 at CEDIA this year?


5050/6050 was just introduced last year. They usually replace this line every other year. I would not anticipate a new model being introduced this year.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

Mrkazador said:


> Devices - "Your projector" - calibration:
> 
> Check, "this display is already calibrated"
> the display is calibrated to the following primaries/gamut: BT. 2020
> Check, "report BT.2020 to display (Nvidia only)"


Thanks !


----------



## Fox1966

My 5050UB came in at the end of last week, and I spent most of the weekend tinkering around with it. I love it! At times the picture really makes my jaw drop!

I did notice that in some 4K HDR movies, there are scenes that are just way too dark, while the next scene will look incredible. After researching, I found that the Panasonic UB420 will likely help with this by handling the tone mapping. So, I ordered one and it is going to be here today.

Does anyone here have experience using the UB420 with the 5050UB? I've read through the UB420 thread, but didn't see anyone talking about settings they use with the 5050. If anyone can share the setting they use on the UB420 to send the best pic to the Epson, it would be very helpful.


----------



## biglen

Fox1966 said:


> My 5050UB came in at the end of last week, and I spent most of the weekend tinkering around with it. I love it! At times the picture really makes my jaw drop!
> 
> 
> 
> I did notice that in some 4K HDR movies, there are scenes that are just way too dark, while the next scene will look incredible. After researching, I found that the Panasonic UB420 will likely help with this by handling the tone mapping. So, I ordered one and it is going to be here today.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone here have experience using the UB420 with the 5050UB? I've read through the UB420 thread, but didn't see anyone talking about settings they use with the 5050. If anyone can share the setting they use on the UB420 to send the best pic to the Epson, it would be very helpful.


If you want the 420 to handle the tone mapping, then make sure to set the 420 to SDR/BT2020. Your Epson will not show that it's receiving HDR, but trust me, it will be. Read this review that Kris wrote. He explains why you should let the 420 handle the tone mapping. The review is for the 820, but it applies to the 420 too. 

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/panasonic-dp-ub820-ultra-hd-blu-ray-player-review

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Fox1966

biglen said:


> If you want the 420 to handle the tone mapping, then make sure to set the 420 to SDR/BT2020. Your Epson will not show that it's receiving HDR, but trust me, it will be. Read this review that Kris wrote. He explains why you should let the 420 handle the tone mapping. The review is for the 820, but it applies to the 420 too.
> 
> https://www.soundandvision.com/content/panasonic-dp-ub820-ultra-hd-blu-ray-player-review
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thank you for the reply! I was under the impression that you just needed to turn the HDR Optimizer on, and then choose the level of tone mapping via a "long press" on the HDR button of the UB420. But, it's better to convert the HDR to SDR? I thought this was only a good option if your projector didn't support HDR at all?


----------



## reechings

How does the 5050 do with 4K HDR mkv files? It has a built in adjustment slider or something right for HDR brightness?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> How does the 5050 do with 4K HDR mkv files? It has a built in adjustment slider or something right for HDR brightness?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


All of my 4k HDR rips are mkvs. The 5050 handles them perfectly. I use Kodi to organize all my rips, and play them through Kodi. You can use the HDR slider on the 5050 to make any adjustments, if needed. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Fox1966 said:


> Thank you for the reply! I was under the impression that you just needed to turn the HDR Optimizer on, and then choose the level of tone mapping via a "long press" on the HDR button of the UB420. But, it's better to convert the HDR to SDR? I thought this was only a good option if your projector didn't support HDR at all?


Kevin Miller, the gentleman who professionally calibrated my 5050, is an Epson guy. I had the same question for him too. He assured me that you want to set the 420 to SDR/BT2020 to allow the 420 to handle the tone mapping. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

reechings said:


> How does the 5050 do with 4K HDR mkv files? It has a built in adjustment slider or something right for HDR brightness?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


If your playing MKV files with a HTPC and you have a decent video card MadVR will "dynamically" tone map HDR to SDR. Some say it even rivals JVC's tone mapping on the NX series. Tone mapping on the 5050 is static as is it on the Panasonic BR players.


----------



## reechings

rekbones said:


> If your playing MKV files with a HTPC and you have a decent video card MadVR will "dynamically" tone map HDR to SDR. Some say it even rivals JVC's tone mapping on the NX series. Tone mapping on the 5050 is static as is it on the Panasonic BR players.


Yeah I'll probably end up doing that. I've got an RTX 2070, hopefully that would be enough. But just on the fly you could tweak the HDR manually with the 5050 too though even if it isn't as good as the dynamic option for like Netflix and stuff.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> Kevin Miller, the gentleman who professionally calibrated my 5050, is an Epson guy. I had the same question for him too. He assured me that you want to set the 420 to SDR/BT2020 to allow the 420 to handle the tone mapping.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Kevin is a real professional that likes questions and will answer what ever you throw at him. Thanks will test this tonight never thought about doing it this way.


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> Kevin is a real professional that likes questions and will answer what ever you throw at him. Thanks will test this tonight never thought about doing it this way.


He was a saint with me. My wife was in the other room when Kevin was here, and when he left, my wife said to me "boy, Kevin earned his money today. You asked him a million questions". I'm known to ask a ton of questions, but that's how you learn, right???

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

jaredmwright said:


> 6050ub here, it's like a real Cinema at home.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I love my 6050 but I have not done ANY calibration. Can you or someone else recommend a "quick" and more user friendly calibration guide?


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> I love my 6050 but I have not done ANY calibration. Can you or someone else recommend a "quick" and more user friendly calibration guide?


Your eyes are probably the best for a "quick" calibration. Anyone elses settings aren't going to help you, due to so many setups being different. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## svusa

*Expert Check Required*

Gents,

I have settled on getting 5050UB for my basement project. 

could one of you expert confirm if the attached projector central throw distance estimate is fair? I'm planning to mount the projector at about 21 ft, to project 165-inch screen. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Northern_Lights

*4:2:2 vs 4:4:4*

A question for anyone using their 5050/6050 with an Xbox One X: When I look at Projector Info, I've never had any signal that exceeds 4:2:2 while using the One X. However, when using an Amazon Firestick 4K, I'm able to get 4:4:4 in Projector Info. Screenshots provided. One is Gears 5 (60fps, 4K, HDR) coming from the One X and the other is Midsommar 4K coming from the Amazon Fire Stick 4K. I also tried playing Midsommar from the Amazon Video app on the One X, and I get 4:2:2. Is this correct or is should I be seeing 4:4:4 when using the One X?


----------



## mach250

Northern_Lights said:


> A question for anyone using their 5050/6050 with an Xbox One X: When I look at Projector Info, I've never had any signal that exceeds 4:2:2 while using the One X. However, when using an Amazon Firestick 4K, I'm able to get 4:4:4 in Projector Info. Screenshots provided. One is Gears 5 (60fps, 4K, HDR) coming from the One X and the other is Midsommar 4K coming from the Amazon Fire Stick 4K. I also tried playing Midsommar from the Amazon Video app on the One X, and I get 4:2:2. Is this correct or is should I be seeing 4:4:4 when using the One X?



Can't remember off the top of my head but see what the drop downs in the video settings list. I don't think I've tried 4:4:4 as I favored bit depth for games and color depth for my PC and text.


----------



## Sekosche

Pulled the trigger on a 5050 today! Should be here next week...and now the waiting game.

I went back and forth on possibly demoing the 4010 that’s in stock locally, but after getting my Epson 3700 up and running in the new room last night (and still being disappointed with the black level, though improved to an extend with total light control), I know I would have been constantly wondering about the quality of the UB series and if the 4010 was too little of an upgrade to merit the investment. For $300 in restocking fees at BB, a potential demo just wasn’t worth it. 

The 5040UB refurbs were in stock most of last week, but they dried up in the last day of two or I would have likely been very happy with one of those too. I do wish the 5050 was priced closer to $2500, but it’ll blow my current image out of the water anyway, so I’m betting once I see it, I’ll forget all about the premium.

For my UHD player, I’m currently running a Sony x800, but I guess I’ll use the money I “saved” on not trying the 4010 and pick up a Panasonic 420 for the better tone mapping.

Take care all!


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> He was a saint with me. My wife was in the other room when Kevin was here, and when he left, my wife said to me "boy, Kevin earned his money today. You asked him a million questions". I'm known to ask a ton of questions, but that's how you learn, right???
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Nothing better than paying for a service and not feeling empty after! Stayed up last night trying to run through movies and failed after i found myself watching the movies. SDR/BT2020 is fantastic,i mapped the 420 panny to oled setting,for most movies just outstanding. I wish the 5050 had the super white feature that is found on the 6050 and older 5040.Thanks for sharing and yes that is how you learn!!


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> Nothing better than paying for a service and not feeling empty after! Stayed up last night trying to run through movies and failed after i found myself watching the movies. SDR/BT2020 is fantastic,i mapped the 420 panny to oled setting,for most movies just outstanding. I wish the 5050 had the super white feature that is found on the 6050 and older 5040.Thanks for sharing and yes that is how you learn!!


For some reason the Super White feature stopped with the 5040/6040. The 5050/6050 do not have that feature. It was nice if you knew how to implement it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Northern_Lights

mach250 said:


> Can't remember off the top of my head but see what the drop downs in the video settings list. I don't think I've tried 4:4:4 as I favored bit depth for games and color depth for my PC and text.



I imagine you mean drop downs in the video settings on the Xbox One X, correct? Here are screenshots:


----------



## mach250

Northern_Lights said:


> I imagine you mean drop downs in the video settings on the Xbox One X, correct? Here are screenshots:



Try reading this info, might need to disable 4:2:2. I’m going to mess with this too when I get a chance

https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.re...hd9g/tech_does_the_one_x_auto_output_ycc_444/


----------



## Northern_Lights

mach250 said:


> Try reading this info, might need to disable 4:2:2. I’m going to mess with this too when I get a chance
> 
> https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.re...hd9g/tech_does_the_one_x_auto_output_ycc_444/



Interesting, but I've read elsewhere that it's important to have 4:2:2 enabled in the Xbox settings. I'm hoping someone else can chime in and help us out.


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> For some reason the Super White feature stopped with the 5040/6040. The 5050/6050 do not have that feature. It was nice if you knew how to implement it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes when used as needed or part of your calibration. I believe it was only taken away with 5050 and not the 6050. (someone please confirm ). I saw it on one of projectorcentral menu pictures? Have to say if i had to do it over the 6050 is looking more like a bargain. Still with that said more than happy with the 5050 (little more work for the same results).


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> Yes when used as needed or part of your calibration. I believe it was only taken away with 5050 and not the 6050. (someone please confirm ). I saw it on one of projectorcentral menu pictures? Have to say if i had to do it over the 6050 is looking more like a bargain. Still with that said more than happy with the 5050 (little more work for the same results).


I had the first 6050 in the United States. It arrived to me on May 8th 2019 after I attended the unveiling of the Epson 6050 in New York City on May 7th last year. If it has Super White they have hidden it pretty well. I had the 5040 and knew exactly where it was in the menu. Fairly certain the 6050 does not have Super White. Robin Sabin of projector central is a great guy but I did have to correct a couple of things about his Epson 6050 write up, if you look in the comments. There is no mention of Super White in his write up like there was in his 5040 review. 

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-6050UB.htm





Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Malodium

I bought one of these about two months ago and have really been enjoying it. Very fun to show it off to family members when they come over, as nobody I know has ever had a projector for movies like this before, so they are all quite impressed.


After I got the image positioned to where I wanted it, and the focus, I have not made a single other adjustment. It's just always set to bright cinema. I have watched movies and played some XBox on it and to me, everything looks really good.


But I do keep wondering if I am missing anything. I did try a few of the other modes, but they didn't look that good to me and were dimmer. I guess I am wondering, is there anything in the settings I should be at least playing around with that for most people improve the image?


I dont have a dedicated theater room, its just in a multipurpose basement, so its only really dark at night. Most of the time I am using it there is some light in the room. Not sure if that will affect any advice.


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## Fox1966

covsound1 said:


> Nothing better than paying for a service and not feeling empty after! Stayed up last night trying to run through movies and failed after i found myself watching the movies. SDR/BT2020 is fantastic,i mapped the 420 panny to oled setting,for most movies just outstanding. I wish the 5050 had the super white feature that is found on the 6050 and older 5040.Thanks for sharing and yes that is how you learn!!


Covsound, so you are using the OLED setting on the Panny 420 instead of the standard luminance/projector setting? Did you change any other settings to use SDR/BT2020 on your 5050? I'm curious what stood out to you about using SDR as opposed to HDR? I just had a few minutes to try this out last night but wasn't impressed with the SDR/BT2020 setting, I thought things looked kind of washed out and the brilliant highlights from HDR didn't seem to be there (although admittedly I only had a few minutes and likely need to do some tweaking). Any input you have would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Pretorian

Ive had some problems with dark areas with my 6050. 
I finally got rid of it by changing from Bright Cinema (first pic)

I tried some other presets.


----------



## covsound1

Fox1966 said:


> Covsound, so you are using the OLED setting on the Panny 420 instead of the standard luminance/projector setting? Did you change any other settings to use SDR/BT2020 on your 5050? I'm curious what stood out to you about using SDR as opposed to HDR? I just had a few minutes to try this out last night but wasn't impressed with the SDR/BT2020 setting, I thought things looked kind of washed out and the brilliant highlights from HDR didn't seem to be there (although admittedly I only had a few minutes and likely need to do some tweaking). Any input you have would be greatly appreciated!


Yes the standard luminance/projector setting really did nothing for me. When using oled setting i was forced to adjust projector mainly drop in color and contrast and a small rise in brightness. What stood out the most was the contrast (pop) as if the projector upgraded static contrast and just punched through. This was in cinema mode with med lamp hdr set to 5. I watched hacksaw ridge and was blown away. In a lot of ways it out played my oled tv. Your statement about brilliant highlights being washed out (clipped) i did notice on one movie and why i made the statement about not having the super white feature in the 5050. When i get time i will tweak more and compare sdr/bt2020 and hdr/bt2020. Hope this helps!


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## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> I had the first 6050 in the United States. It arrived to me on May 8th 2019 after I attended the unveiling of the Epson 6050 in New York City on May 7th last year. If it has Super White they have hidden it pretty well. I had the 5040 and knew exactly where it was in the menu. Fairly certain the 6050 does not have Super White. Robin Sabin of projector central is a great guy but I did have to correct a couple of things about his Epson 6050 write up, if you look in the comments. There is no mention of Super White in his write up like there was in his 5040 review.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-6050UB.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Hello could not post last night for some reason. Just wanted to say thanks. Not kicking rocks over not having the 6050!lol


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## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> Hello could not post last night for some reason. Just wanted to say thanks. Not kicking rocks over not having the 6050!lol


When the 5050 was on sale for most of the last 12 months it was an outstanding value. I honestly doubt I could tell the picture quality difference between a 6050 and a 5050. The extra year of warranty, the mount and the extra lamp are nice as it the black color but for most people the 5050 is the right choice.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Ive had some problems with dark areas with my 6050.
> I finally got rid of it by changing from Bright Cinema (first pic)
> 
> I tried some other presets.


Is that Kong the images are from, what’s the device and was it 4K or 1080P.


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## Luminated67

Did the switch from HDR to SDR BT2020 on my Panasonic UB420 to see how it looks compared to letting the Epson handle HDR.

I need to re watch the disc with it setup the other way but I do reckon it probably handles HDR better as occasionally you did need to adjust the HDR slider between movies.

Anyway here’s a few images to see what you think


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## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> Did the switch from HDR to SDR BT2020 on my Panasonic UB420 to see how it looks compared to letting the Epson handle HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I need to re watch the disc with it setup the other way but I do reckon it probably handles HDR better as occasionally you did need to adjust the HDR slider between movies.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway here’s a few images to see what you think


You take the best pictures. The absolute best!! So do you like letting the 420 handle HDR better? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> You take the best pictures. The absolute best!! So do you like letting the 420 handle HDR better?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks, I don’t think I’m doing anything special.

I need to rewatch it again, maybe tomorrow and possibly pick a section with it set both ways to see.


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## Fox1966

covsound1 said:


> Yes the standard luminance/projector setting really did nothing for me. When using oled setting i was forced to adjust projector mainly drop in color and contrast and a small rise in brightness. What stood out the most was the contrast (pop) as if the projector upgraded static contrast and just punched through. This was in cinema mode with med lamp hdr set to 5. I watched hacksaw ridge and was blown away. In a lot of ways it out played my oled tv. Your statement about brilliant highlights being washed out (clipped) i did notice on one movie and why i made the statement about not having the super white feature in the 5050. When i get time i will tweak more and compare sdr/bt2020 and hdr/bt2020. Hope this helps!


Covsound1, yes, this very helpful - thank you! I watched a bit of Spiderman Far From Home 4k tonight letting the 420 do the HDR/SDR conversion. It looked really good! Now I want to compare a bit more and watch a few more things, but I did like what I was seeing! Did you make any adjustments to the 5050, or are you just using the standard Digital Cinema setting with Gamma and all other picture options on default?


----------



## covsound1

Fox1966 said:


> Covsound1, yes, this very helpful - thank you! I watched a bit of Spiderman Far From Home 4k tonight letting the 420 do the HDR/SDR conversion. It looked really good! Now I want to compare a bit more and watch a few more things, but I did like what I was seeing! Did you make any adjustments to the 5050, or are you just using the standard Digital Cinema setting with Gamma and all other picture options on default?


That is really good to hear. I use digital cinema as my reference calibrated mode by the book as some may say. My go to mode is cinema and b&w mode when i don"t want to use the filter. I do this to check myself to see how far off,or how much better i can get from a calibrated look. If you use the projector mode in the 420 you should not have to change your projector settings,but you will have a more sdr look. If you us oled mode in the 420 you will have change your projector settings for a really good hdr. I had to drop contrast in the 20's and color in the 30's and brightness 52 to 58. Your settings may differ depending on rgb offset and gain levels. I only have a couple nights playing around with this as member bigien showed me another way to do hdr. just looked ( brightness 55,contrast 38, color 42, gamma -1 hdr 5 ).


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> Pretorian said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ive had some problems with dark areas with my 6050.
> I finally got rid of it by changing from Bright Cinema (first pic)
> 
> I tried some other presets.
> 
> 
> 
> Is that Kong the images are from, whatâ€™️s the device and was it 4K or 1080P.
Click to expand...

Yes Kong. 
I am running a UHD rip with 60-80 Mbit bitrate. 
I wonder why Bright Cinema ”destroys” the image like this. 
I have had this problem for a while or I think from when I upgraded my receiver so I could pass through 4k. 
Other responses was that I need a better HDMI cable so I upgraded but it did not change the dark scenes. 
I am glad that I got rid of it but do I miss anything by not using Bright Cinema?


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Yes Kong.
> I am running a UHD rip with 60-80 Mbit bitrate.
> I wonder why Bright Cinema ”destroys” the image like this.
> I have had this problem for a while or I think from when I upgraded my receiver so I could pass through 4k.
> Other responses was that I need a better HDMI cable so I upgraded but it did not change the dark scenes.
> I am glad that I got rid of it but do I miss anything by not using Bright Cinema?


The guy that calibrated mine picked ‘Bright Cinema’ as my HDR setup without the filter and I can honestly say that apart from being overtly bright for my eyes the image throws up no affects and definitely nothing like what you are getting. Very odd indeed.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> The guy that calibrated mine picked ‘Bright Cinema’ as my HDR setup without the filter and I can honestly say that apart from being overtly bright for my eyes the image throws up no affects and definitely nothing like what you are getting. Very odd indeed.


My guy also chose Bright Cinema for my HDR setup. If it's overly bright for you, just knock down the HDR slider a bit. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Fox1966

covsound1 said:


> That is really good to hear. I use digital cinema as my reference calibrated mode by the book as some may say. My go to mode is cinema and b&w mode when i don"t want to use the filter. I do this to check myself to see how far off,or how much better i can get from a calibrated look. If you use the projector mode in the 420 you should not have to change your projector settings,but you will have a more sdr look. If you us oled mode in the 420 you will have change your projector settings for a really good hdr. I had to drop contrast in the 20's and color in the 30's and brightness 52 to 58. Your settings may differ depending on rgb offset and gain levels. I only have a couple nights playing around with this as member bigien showed me another way to do hdr. just looked ( brightness 55,contrast 38, color 42, gamma -1 hdr 5 ).


Thank you again Covsound! Although, now you have me curious as to what the other way to do hdr is that bigien showed you


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## biglen

Fox1966 said:


> Thank you again Covsound! Although, now you have me curious as to what the other way to do hdr is that bigien showed you


It's biglen, not "bigien" 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Fox1966

biglen said:


> It's biglen, not "bigien"
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Oops, sorry Biglen! I'm super curious to hear about this other hdr method for the 5050, if you don't mind sharing or sending me a PM.


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## Luminated67

Alita Warrior Angel (1080P)


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## Northern_Lights

Northern_Lights said:


> A question for anyone using their 5050/6050 with an Xbox One X: When I look at Projector Info, I've never had any signal that exceeds 4:2:2 while using the One X. However, when using an Amazon Firestick 4K, I'm able to get 4:4:4 in Projector Info. Screenshots provided. One is Gears 5 (60fps, 4K, HDR) coming from the One X and the other is Midsommar 4K coming from the Amazon Fire Stick 4K. I also tried playing Midsommar from the Amazon Video app on the One X, and I get 4:2:2. Is this correct or is should I be seeing 4:4:4 when using the One X?



Before this gets lost, let me re-state the question. When I look at the Projector Info on the 5050, when watching 4k HDR content, regardless of physical source, should I ALWAYS be seeing 4:4:4? I know I've read that all films are made in 4:2:0, but I feel like I read that the device chain should ultimately be upconverting the final signal to 4:4:4.


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## biglen

Fox1966 said:


> Oops, sorry Biglen! I'm super curious to hear about this other hdr method for the 5050, if you don't mind sharing or sending me a PM.


Do you mean with the Panasonic 420?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Northern_Lights said:


> Before this gets lost, let me re-state the question. When I look at the Projector Info on the 5050, when watching 4k HDR content, regardless of physical source, should I ALWAYS be seeing 4:4:4? I know I've read that all films are made in 4:2:0, but I feel like I read that the device chain should ultimately be upconverting the final signal to 4:4:4.


Correct, depending on the source mine will vary between 8bit and 10bit but will always read 4:4:4.


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## cky2354

I have been playing with my Epson 5050UB lately too especially HDR content. I have been going back and forth between my Apple TV and Panasonic 420 .... HDR on... HDR off and I know there is difference between all the settings but without being able to do side by side, I can't really tell which is better. Because of the few seconds for it to sync when I switch inputs.. it's too hard to tell. I know for sure that SDR seems to have better blacks... or I should say black floor.

I have been using dynamic on eco setting because it gives me the brightest picture in eco... wonder if I should be using the dynamic cinema instead. Wish there was a consensus on what is the best setting for our projector regarding HDR content.


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## ivanhoek

cky2354 said:


> I have been playing with my Epson 5050UB lately too especially HDR content. I have been going back and forth between my Apple TV and Panasonic 420 .... HDR on... HDR off and I know there is difference between all the settings but without being able to do side by side, I can't really tell which is better. Because of the few seconds for it to sync when I switch inputs.. it's too hard to tell. I know for sure that SDR seems to have better blacks... or I should say black floor.
> 
> I have been using dynamic on eco setting because it gives me the brightest picture in eco... wonder if I should be using the dynamic cinema instead. Wish there was a consensus on what is the best setting for our projector regarding HDR content.



HDR seems so ... not uniform and arbitrary I think whichever way you can get it to look the most appealing to you, is the best.

It’s a mess.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

cky2354 said:


> I have been playing with my Epson 5050UB lately too especially HDR content. I have been going back and forth between my Apple TV and Panasonic 420 .... HDR on... HDR off and I know there is difference between all the settings but without being able to do side by side, I can't really tell which is better. Because of the few seconds for it to sync when I switch inputs.. it's too hard to tell. I know for sure that SDR seems to have better blacks... or I should say black floor.
> 
> I have been using dynamic on eco setting because it gives me the brightest picture in eco... wonder if I should be using the dynamic cinema instead. Wish there was a consensus on what is the best setting for our projector regarding HDR content.


What’s the screen size and distance from projector lens to screen.

Unless you screen is greater than 130” I would definitely use either ‘Cinema’ or ‘Digital Cinema’ as both these have the filter, you might have to switch the lamp mode to Medium but the colours are way better with these two modes with more pop.


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## Northern_Lights

Luminated67 said:


> Correct, depending on the source mine will vary between 8bit and 10bit but will always read 4:4:4.



I wonder what I'm doing wrong then? Is my cable not up to snuff? It's a hybrid fiber one from Bifale. I don't think it's something with the Xbox; I was watching some Disney+ 4k content on my Firestick 4k the other night and only getting 4:2:0 in Projector Info. 



I do get 4:4:4 when watching Midsommar 4k on Amazon Prime using the Firestick 4k but this is probably the ONLY time I've actually seen 4:4:4 in Projector Info. I've tested this putting the Firestick 4k directly into the projector, and also putting the Firestick into my AVR, and get 4:4:4 either way when looking at Projector Info.


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## Luminated67

Northern_Lights said:


> I wonder what I'm doing wrong then? Is my cable not up to snuff? It's a hybrid fiber one from Bifale. I don't think it's something with the Xbox; I was watching some Disney+ 4k content on my Firestick 4k the other night and only getting 4:2:0 in Projector Info.
> 
> 
> 
> I do get 4:4:4 when watching Midsommar 4k on Amazon Prime using the Firestick 4k but this is probably the ONLY time I've actually seen 4:4:4 in Projector Info. I've tested this putting the Firestick 4k directly into the projector, and also putting the Firestick into my AVR, and get 4:4:4 either way when looking at Projector Info.


I honestly don’t know because I only have three devices connected to my AVR, 2 Bluray players and my Sky mini box, as the distance between these and my AVR is less that 3 meter (10ft) I’m using regular HDMI cables but the one between the AVR and the projector is an Optical HDMI and I’ve always had 4:4:4.


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## Northern_Lights

Luminated67 said:


> I honestly don’t know because I only have three devices connected to my AVR, 2 Bluray players and my Sky mini box, as the distance between these and my AVR is less that 3 meter (10ft) I’m using regular HDMI cables but the one between the AVR and the projector is an Optical HDMI and I’ve always had 4:4:4.



Do you get 4:4:4 even when watching 4k and 1080p SDR content, or only with 4k HDR content?


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## Fox1966

biglen said:


> Do you mean with the Panasonic 420?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Possibly? Whatever method Covsound1 was referring to previously. I've been going back and forth between converting HDR to SDR/BT220 on the 420 or just leaving it on HDR and using the HDR optimizer. I've had more time to mess around with it today, and now I'm leaning towards putting the 420 on Oled mode (for my Epson 5050), leaving HDR as is, and putting HDR optimizer on "standard." To me, this seems to be giving me the most HDR bang for the buck...it may all come down to personal preferences and differences in room/equipment...I'm loving hearing what others are doing though, I never would have gotten this far without the advice of everyone on this forum


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## biglen

Northern_Lights said:


> Do you get 4:4:4 even when watching 4k and 1080p SDR content, or only with 4k HDR content?


From what I understand, you should never see 4:4:4 with 1080p. I'm pretty sure @skylarlove1999 told me that before. Hopefully he chimes in. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

Fox1966 said:


> Possibly? Whatever method Covsound1 was referring to previously. I've been going back and forth between converting HDR to SDR/BT220 on the 420 or just leaving it on HDR and using the HDR optimizer. I've had more time to mess around with it today, and now I'm leaning towards putting the 420 on Oled mode (for my Epson 5050), leaving HDR as is, and putting HDR optimizer on "standard." To me, this seems to be giving me the most HDR bang for the buck...it may all come down to personal preferences and differences in room/equipment...I'm loving hearing what others are doing though, I never would have gotten this far without the advice of everyone on this forum


At the end of the day, it comes down to what looks best for your eyes. My 420 is set to SDR/BT2020, because that's what the guy who calibrated my 5050 set it to. That's what you need the 420 set to, so it handles the tone mapping, instead of the 5050 doing it. He told me the Panasonic does a much better job with tone mapping, over the 5050. The 420 does have an HDR slider to fine tune your HDR. 

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## Northern_Lights

biglen said:


> From what I understand, you should never see 4:4:4 with 1080p. I'm pretty sure @*skylarlove1999* told me that before. Hopefully he chimes in.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Thanks for the info, biglen. Yeah, just wanted to check that as a secondary thing. My issue is that I'm not seeing 4:4:4 with the VAST majority of 4k HDR content, whether that's movies/shows/games coming from the Xbox One X, or movies/shows coming from the Firestick 4k (Disney+, Amazon Prime video, etc.).


Really hoping more people can provide some input here.


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## biglen

Northern_Lights said:


> Thanks for the info, biglen. Yeah, just wanted to check that as a secondary thing. My issue is that I'm not seeing 4:4:4 with the VAST majority of 4k HDR content, whether that's movies/shows/games coming from the Xbox One X, or movies/shows coming from the Firestick 4k (Disney+, Amazon Prime video, etc.).
> 
> 
> Really hoping more people can provide some input here.


Another thing he told me, was that it's not very common to see 4:4:4. Again, hopefully he chimes in, because I don't want to quote him wrong. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

biglen said:


> From what I understand, you should never see 4:4:4 with 1080p. I'm pretty sure @skylarlove1999 told me that before. Hopefully he chimes in.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I see 4:4:4 8bit with my Sky mini and it’s only 1080P.


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> From what I understand, you should never see 4:4:4 with 1080p. I'm pretty sure @skylarlove1999 told me that before. Hopefully he chimes in.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 1080P or UHD broadcast signal would never be 4:4:4. 

4:2:0 most likely, maybe 4:2:2. Anything above that is your equipment changing the format along the way. 

You could set your UHD UHD player to 4:4:4 so when you watched a bluray disc it would appear on the projector info screen as 4:4:4 but it wouldn't be how the disc was actually formatted. 

Personally I just set it as auto in the player, so whatever the format of the original content was intended is what I am seeing. 

UHD standard is 10 bit 4:2:0.

Bluray standard is 8 bit 4:2:0 . 

When you see different numbers that is not the content but your components producing those numbers. 

These are some good article that discuss Chroma subsampling and 4K, UHD and HDR.

https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/chroma-subsampling

http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/uhd-101-v2/

Think about 8 bit 10 bit and 12 bit as building the shades/variances of color. The greater the number the more shades of a color you will have to use. This is important for video because what was captured on film has varying degrees of intensity and shading for the same color. Think of a black night or a sun rising. Have you ever seen what looks like rings in the scene? It is most likely because the number of colors present in the video are not available in the format of the content you are watching so you get the ringing effect, commonly referred to as color banding artifacts. The reason the varying shades of color are unavailable is due to the compressing of the video signal.

https://dgit.com/4k-hdr-guide-51429/amp/

https://blog.biamp.com/understanding-video-compression-artifacts/


Even when watching UHD content 4:4:4 is never necessary. if you are seeing that line it is because your equipment is forcing that format. Really only a PC signal needs 4:4:4 to make the text super crisp and clear on the display, especially large displays. Some people do use their projector as a monitor a 120+ inch monitor LOL. Now I am rambling LOL. 

I have included a quick pic of a 1080P football broadcast for illustrative purposes. Added a picture of The Highwaymen to illustrate what UHD HDR contemt will show info on the projector.









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## Northern_Lights

skylarlove1999 said:


> Think about 8 bit 10 bit and 12 bit as building the shades/variances of color. The greater the number the more shades of a color you will have to use. This is important for video because what was captured on film has varying degrees of intensity and shading for the same color. Think of a black night or a sun rising. Have you ever seen what looks like rings in the scene? It is most likely because the number of colors present in the video are not available in the format of the content you are watching so you get the ringing effect, commonly referred to as color banding artifacts. The reason the varying shades of color are unavailable is due to the compressing of the video signal.
> 
> https://dgit.com/4k-hdr-guide-51429/amp/
> 
> https://blog.biamp.com/understanding-video-compression-artifacts/



Thanks Skylar, I appreciate the detailed reply; maybe nothing is wrong with my cable; my Xbox does report a green check mark for 4k/60hz and HDR. I do see color banding with some sources, particularly SDR content. Do you experience this as well?


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## skylarlove1999

Northern_Lights said:


> Thanks Skylar, I appreciate the detailed reply; maybe nothing is wrong with my cable; my Xbox does report a green check mark for 4k/60hz and HDR. I do see color banding with some sources, particularly SDR content. Do you experience this as well?


If you pay close enough attention with streaming you can catch color banding in a ton of content. So not unusual at all. Could be the way the content was mastered but most likely it is the compression from streaming. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## cky2354

Luminated67 said:


> What’s the screen size and distance from projector lens to screen.
> 
> Unless you screen is greater than 130” I would definitely use either ‘Cinema’ or ‘Digital Cinema’ as both these have the filter, you might have to switch the lamp mode to Medium but the colours are way better with these two modes with more pop.



Oh okay... I will try that tonight and see if it makes it better. My screen is 140" scope and the projector is sitting about 16ft back. I think it is plenty bright for me but for some reason... everything seems brighter in dynamic and that's why I have left it there.


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## Sekosche

Luminated67 said:


> Alita Warrior Angel (1080P)


Wow, awesome screen captures again! Alita is on my handful of demo discs to spin when the 5050 arrives. I’ve watched so many UHD discs just for the Atmos tracks, it’ll be amazing to finally have a dedicated space and great PJ to enjoy them all with.

I’ve barely watched a couple movies (that aren’t on Disney+ anyway) a month since we decided to build a house last fall and have been super busy with everything that entails the last 6 months. Media room is probably 75% done, just have to install the Atmos speakers and waiting on new subwoofers to arrive in the next couple weeks.

I got the Epson 3700 hooked up a couple days ago, and it will be close fitting the 5050 to my current 106” screen in such a small space. The room layout really only worked using the 14’ long wall for the screen with the seating opposite, so that only leaves 12’ wall to screen which will be cutting it close according to all the throw distance calculators I’ve used, and the 5050 throw is the same as the 3700, so accounting for the significantly larger projector size, I may need to downsize a few inches on the screen just to be safe. If I have to downsize screens a tad, I’m ok with it, because the screen really does seem a lot larger in a smaller, fully light controlled space sitting a few feet closer.

I suppose I need to get a white screen anyway, as I’m sure the 0.9 gain high contrast dark gray screen I’m using isn’t optimal in a blacked out room for maximum dynamic range and what not. I know brightness for HDR for sure won’t be an issue in this room, as the Epson 3700 almost melts my eyeballs after 20 minutes with the lights out with the power on eco in its lowest output cinema mode and that’s after 4,000 hours on the bulb.


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## jklow888

biglen said:


> At the end of the day, it comes down to what looks best for your eyes. My 420 is set to SDR/BT2020, because that's what the guy who calibrated my 5050 set it to. That's what you need the 420 set to, so it handles the tone mapping, instead of the 5050 doing it. He told me the Panasonic does a much better job with tone mapping, over the 5050. The 420 does have an HDR slider to fine tune your HDR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I tried this and I think SDR/BT2020 does look better. Just to confirm, once you do this, you cannot use the HDR slider on the 420/820 ? Must you set to HDR/BT2020 and then select the relevant preference and then that is locked in when you set output to SDR/BT2020.


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> The guy that calibrated mine picked ‘Bright Cinema’ as my HDR setup without the filter and I can honestly say that apart from being overtly bright for my eyes the image throws up no affects and definitely nothing like what you are getting. Very odd indeed.


That is interesting. Would you mind sharing a screen of your settings? Maybe I have something WAAAAY off when using Bright Cinema?


----------



## fakerus

My go to setting is bright cinema set to eco mode. It’s perfect. The only thing I tinker with depending on the content is the hdr setting. I usually toggle between 4 and 6. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> That is interesting. Would you mind sharing a screen of your settings? Maybe I have something WAAAAY off when using Bright Cinema?


My screen is a 1.1 gain white fixed frame, 100” 16:9. 

As I said I have a calibrated ‘Bright Cinema’ preset that Gordon did but I always use the one he did with the filter.

Here’s two screen captures with the filter.









Panasonic doing the HDR duties









Epson doing the HDR duties 


Here’s a screen capture from Kong but this one is 1080P


----------



## AVTimme

covsound1 said:


> That is really good to hear. I use digital cinema as my reference calibrated mode by the book as some may say. My go to mode is cinema and b&w mode when i don"t want to use the filter. I do this to check myself to see how far off,or how much better i can get from a calibrated look. If you use the projector mode in the 420 you should not have to change your projector settings,but you will have a more sdr look. If you us oled mode in the 420 you will have change your projector settings for a really good hdr. I had to drop contrast in the 20's and color in the 30's and brightness 52 to 58. Your settings may differ depending on rgb offset and gain levels. I only have a couple nights playing around with this as member bigien showed me another way to do hdr. just looked ( brightness 55,contrast 38, color 42, gamma -1 hdr 5 ).



Both Cinema and digital cinema use the filter though


----------



## biglen

jklow888 said:


> I tried this and I think SDR/BT2020 does look better. Just to confirm, once you do this, you cannot use the HDR slider on the 420/820 ? Must you set to HDR/BT2020 and then select the relevant preference and then that is locked in when you set output to SDR/BT2020.


You can still use the HDR slider on the 420, but only on discs, and not streaming media. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Crantastic

*163" 2.39:1 Spandex AT with 5050ub*

Hello all,
As the post title suggests I want maximize my wall width and do a large ~163" cinemascope AT screen made out of spandex with my 5050ub. Do you think it will be bright enough? I'd prefer not to run at full power all the time if I can help it but I assume I'm stretching the brightness limits of the 5050 with a screen this size even at full power. My throw distance can be pretty much any throw(36' long room) within the limits to widen for scope and zoom in for 16:9. The calculator comes out to 22'6" throw distance for scope at the "sweet spot" of 1.55 zoom and 1.18 for 16:9 at that distance. Any thoughts? Should I get the zoom as close to 1 as possible for 16:9? I can obvs go smaller but would prefer to use all of the width available. When needed the room can be close to black out conditions and the for now the walls/ceiling/carpet will be lighter beige colors. I think I'll post this in the screens sub-forum too so I'm covering my bases from both angles. The projector and the screen. I have some drawings in my build thread if needed.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Crantastic said:


> Hello all,
> 
> As the post title suggests I want maximize my wall width and do a large ~163" cinemascope AT screen made out of spandex with my 5050ub. Do you think it will be bright enough? I'd prefer not to run at full power all the time if I can help it but I assume I'm stretching the brightness limits of the 5050 with a screen this size even at full power. My throw distance can be pretty much any throw(36' long room) within the limits to widen for scope and zoom in for 16:9. The calculator comes out to 22'6" throw distance for scope at the "sweet spot" of 1.55 zoom and 1.18 for 16:9 at that distance. Any thoughts? Should I get the zoom as close to 1 as possible for 16:9? I can obvs go smaller but would prefer to use all of the width available. When needed the room can be close to black out conditions and the for now the walls/ceiling/carpet will be lighter beige colors. I think I'll post this in the screens sub-forum too so I'm covering my bases from both angles. The projector and the screen. I have some drawings in my build thread if needed.


With an AT screen that size and a light colored room I would not expect great blacks, contrast or HDR. I am sure you have your reasons for wanting that large a screen but if I were you I would reconsider. 

Smaller non AT screen 140-150 inch 2:39 screen.

Put left and right speakers outside the screen and center below. You won't sacrifice much on the audio side but your video will be significantly improved IMHO. I would go with an ALR screen since you have significant light being reflected back onto your screen by the walls and ceiling. I suggest checking out Seymour AV. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

AVTimme said:


> Both Cinema and digital cinema use the filter though


I enjoy both as they have a different look. With out the filter i can enjoy extreme contrast max 2d look on the order of a really good dlp projector with a better black floor,my high gain screen sometimes takes me out off the movie even with clamping down on the lamp.A negative gain screen would most likely work better if this was my go to mode. Dynamic mode has the biggest upside i think out of all the modes if used with a filter and correct negative gain screen. Sometimes i wish i was not so anal about little things but that is the nature of the beast.


----------



## jklow888

biglen said:


> You can still use the HDR slider on the 420, but only on discs, and not streaming media.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I just tried this on my 820 with a 4K HDR disk and output as SDR/BT2020 - when I press the HDR slider button I get:

"This function is valid only during HDR video output".

Is there something I need to check that prevents me from using the HDR slider when outputting SDR/BT2020 ?

For now I've gone back to HDR/BT2020 output so assume I'm double tone mapping. I had an extra (better) pair of eyes helping and the feedback was that the HDR/BT2020 output was better in terms of details, colours and brightness. FYI - my 6050 HDR setting is 3.


----------



## biglen

jklow888 said:


> I just tried this on my 820 with a 4K HDR disk and output as SDR/BT2020 - when I press the HDR slider button I get:
> 
> 
> 
> "This function is valid only during HDR video output".
> 
> 
> 
> Is there something I need to check that prevents me from using the HDR slider when outputting SDR/BT2020 ?
> 
> 
> 
> For now I've gone back to HDR/BT2020 output so assume I'm double tone mapping. I has an extra (better) pair of eyes helping and the feedback was that the HDR/BT2020 output was better in terms of details, colours and brightness. FYI - my 6050 HDR setting is 3.


When set to SDR/BT2020, you have to hit the Option button to get to the HDR Optimizer. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

jklow888 said:


> I just tried this on my 820 with a 4K HDR disk and output as SDR/BT2020 - when I press the HDR slider button I get:
> 
> "This function is valid only during HDR video output".
> 
> Is there something I need to check that prevents me from using the HDR slider when outputting SDR/BT2020 ?
> 
> For now I've gone back to HDR/BT2020 output so assume I'm double tone mapping. I has an extra (better) pair of eyes helping and the feedback was that the HDR/BT2020 output was better in terms of details, colours and brightness. FYI - my 6050 HDR setting is 3.


Sounds like you where in projector mode on the panny. I am no pro but if your source is mapped at 1000nits and you tone map at 350nits you get what your better pair of helping eyes told you. (I notice this way back when i was using the 5040 and panny 9000.) This is why i choose to map with the oled setting and your term double tone mapping. I am still playing with this as this is new to me and others but that level of control merits investigation. I played around with star trek a dark movie and the hdr was so strong it bothered my eyes but at same time color was rich and full with more detail.


----------



## Luminated67

jklow888 said:


> I just tried this on my 820 with a 4K HDR disk and output as SDR/BT2020 - when I press the HDR slider button I get:
> 
> "This function is valid only during HDR video output".
> 
> Is there something I need to check that prevents me from using the HDR slider when outputting SDR/BT2020 ?
> 
> For now I've gone back to HDR/BT2020 output so assume I'm double tone mapping. I has an extra (better) pair of eyes helping and the feedback was that the HDR/BT2020 output was better in terms of details, colours and brightness. FYI - my 6050 HDR setting is 3.


I’m run through the scenes back and forth and I feel there’s more shadow detail with SDR BT2020 and the Panny doing the tonal mapping. But I suppose it’s up to the individual and which they prefer but as @biglen said you have to turn the Optimizer to ON.


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> Pretorian said:
> 
> 
> 
> That is interesting. Would you mind sharing a screen of your settings? Maybe I have something WAAAAY off when using Bright Cinema?
> 
> 
> 
> My screen is a 1.1 gain white fixed frame, 100â€ 16:9.
> 
> As I said I have a calibrated â€˜Bright Cinemaâ€™️ preset that Gordon did but I always use the one he did with the filter.
> 
> Hereâ€™️s two screen captures with the filter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Panasonic doing the HDR duties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson doing the HDR duties
> 
> 
> Hereâ€™️s a screen capture from Kong but this one is 1080P
Click to expand...

Looks great. 
I went into the Bright Cinema settings and I noticed that I had lowered the Brightness and that was what caused the artifacts in dark scenes. 

What do you mean by using a setting WITH filter?


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Looks great.
> I went into the Bright Cinema settings and I noticed that I had lowered the Brightness and that was what caused the artifacts in dark scenes.
> 
> What do you mean by using a setting WITH filter?


OK if you are watching 4K HDR that has a wider colour range than the standard setups (Dynamic-Bright Cinema-Natural) capable of producing so then you should be using either (Cinema or Digital Cinema) as these two have a built-in filter that slides into place and allows the projector to produces the full colour range of HDR.


----------



## jklow888

biglen said:


> When set to SDR/BT2020, you have to hit the Option button to get to the HDR Optimizer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thank you - I last went into the Options setting section when I first got the 820. I tried it in the afternoon and was able to adjust the Optimizer level with SDR/BT2020 as output and now I am leaning back to SDR/BT2020.



covsound1 said:


> Sounds like you where in projector mode on the panny. I am no pro but if your source is mapped at 1000nits and you tone map at 350nits you get what your better pair of helping eyes told you. (I notice this way back when i was using the 5040 and panny 9000.) This is why i choose to map with the oled setting and your term double tone mapping. I am still playing with this as this is new to me and others but that level of control merits investigation. I played around with star trek a dark movie and the hdr was so strong it bothered my eyes but at same time color was rich and full with more detail.


Yes I was - I assume going to SDR/BT2020 is what tone maps to 350 (the added option that is on the 9000 vs 500 nits/the lowest option on the 820) which is why I wanted to try that. I think trying to use the OLED setting and having to compensate/adjust elsewhere would be a lot of effort but would be interested to see your progress on that.


----------



## jklow888

Luminated67 said:


> I’m run through the scenes back and forth and I feel there’s more shadow detail with SDR BT2020 and the Panny doing the tonal mapping. But I suppose it’s up to the individual and which they prefer but as @biglen said you have to turn the Optimizer to ON.


While I think SDR/BT2020 is better, I'll have to make some time during this week or next weekend to do plenty of comparisons.

Out of curiosity, from your signature you have the 9400 + X700 as a source - ever considered an HD Fury for "dynamic tone mapping" ?


----------



## Luminated67

jklow888 said:


> While I think SDR/BT2020 is better, I'll have to make some time during this week or next weekend to do plenty of comparisons.
> 
> Out of curiosity, from your signature you have the 9400 + X700 as a source - ever considered an HD Fury for "dynamic tone mapping" ?


I actually use the Sony X700 for solely 1080P duties because the Panny UB420 automatically upscales everything. I knew that the Panny was doing a better job I just didn’t realise just how good until I watched Mortal Engines again and boy I was blown away. Highs and lows in the light spectrum is there in all it’s glory.

Mortal Engines UHD

Dropbox


----------



## skylarlove1999

jklow888 said:


> While I think SDR/BT2020 is better, I'll have to make some time during this week or next weekend to do plenty of comparisons.
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, from your signature you have the 9400 + X700 as a source - ever considered an HD Fury for "dynamic tone mapping" ?


When you say HD Fury can do "dynamic tone mapping " are you referring to Dave Harper's Dolby Vision hack?

Here is a link to that thread for those interested. It is an undertaking. For tinkerers who don't want to go the madVR HTPC route but would like improved HDR performance from their static tone mapping projector. There are various options on how well the hack works for the amount of effort, skill and knowledge to implement it.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app

If so, maybe provide an explanation and a link to that thread so people aren't misled into thinking an HD Fury by itself has dynamic tone mapping capability. HD Fury has been using it to market their products but some people are of differing opinions as of the results . 

It also requires a UHD player capable of doing the hack and some technical knowledge and skill to achieve great results. Not trying to undermine your statement but you should be careful about what you casually throw out there. Not everyone may be as knowledgeable and skilled as you are. 

https://www.hdfury.com/enjoy-dynamic-dv-content-from-lldv-source-on-any-hdr10-display/

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jklow888

skylarlove1999 said:


> When you say HD Fury can do "dynamic tone mapping " are you referring to Dave Harper's Dolby Vision hack?
> 
> If so, maybe provide an explanation and a link to that thread so people aren't misled into thinking an HD Fury by itself has dynamic tone mapping capability. HD Fury has been using it to market their products but some people are of differing opinions as of the results .
> 
> It also requires a UHD player capable of doing the hack and some technical knowledge and skill to achieve great results. Not trying to undermine your statement but you should be careful about what you casually throw out there. Not everyone may be as knowledgeable and skilled as you are.
> 
> https://www.hdfury.com/enjoy-dynamic-dv-content-from-lldv-source-on-any-hdr10-display/
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes I was and assumed forum members who are trying to get the best HDR performance would know of that discussion thread - thanks for adding it here for reference. I'm not knowledgeable at all/do not post in that thread but what I have seen is that very few Epson 5050/6050 owners seem to consider that (appears to be mostly JVC owners) so seeing someone with the right combination of hardware they might be interested. If I had a X700/X800/203 I would be inclined to look into that although the relevant device is expensive in Australia.


----------



## biglen

jklow888 said:


> Yes I was and assumed forum members who are trying to get the best HDR performance would know of that discussion thread - thanks for adding it here for reference. I'm not knowledgeable at all/do not post in that thread but what I have seen is that very few Epson 5050/6050 owners seem to consider that (appears to be mostly JVC owners) so seeing someone with the right combination of hardware they might be interested. If I had a X700/X800/203 I would be inclined to look into that although the relevant device is expensive in Australia.


From what I have read, it seems like MadVR is the popular choice for HDR tone mapping. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

This is a question direct to anyone with a cinescope screen.

I watch almost all my movies through the Nvidia Shield through Plex and Netflix.

How do you guys deal with forced subtitles and the subtitles getting cut off? It doesn't happen very often but curious.


----------



## d3code

gtoday i checked the Epson EH-TW7400. but when i checked a movie, the film grain was removed. specially background detail. like those older bluray movies. 

so my question is. is this normal for the epson? that its basicly a splendid unit for new material. but for older material it removes the film grain? i watch a lot of older movies and i am really picky about film grain. so when i see a movie and i see waxed out back ground, for me the movie is already ruined. i really liked the colors of this projector. but the removal of filmgrain is a big no for me. so my question is. is this a projector problem, or is this a settings problem?

i used big trouble in little china bluray from fox EU version as reference. but as far as i know the same master if used for the bluray world wide?

could anybody help me? thanks


----------



## skylarlove1999

d3code said:


> gtoday i checked the Epson EH-TW7400. but when i checked a movie, the film grain was removed. specially background detail. like those older bluray movies.
> 
> 
> 
> so my question is. is this normal for the epson? that its basicly a splendid unit for new material. but for older material it removes the film grain? i watch a lot of older movies and i am really picky about film grain. so when i see a movie and i see waxed out back ground, for me the movie is already ruined. i really liked the colors of this projector. but the removal of filmgrain is a big no for me. so my question is. is this a projector problem, or is this a settings problem?
> 
> 
> 
> i used big trouble in little china bluray from fox EU version as reference. but as far as i know the same master if used for the bluray world wide?
> 
> 
> 
> could anybody help me? thanks


Projector settings can affect the image in both good and bad ways. Which is good and bad is sometimes quite different from user to user. I am unaware of any settings that can remove film grain. I would just turn off all the preset picture settings . They are 1-5. 1 barely registers and 5 is too much for most people. 2 and 3 seem to be the sweet spot for most users. But I still don't see 5 completely removing film grain. Did you take the bluray player and hook it up to a televising and rewatch the same content? Did the grain reappear? 

BTW there are absolutely different versions of films out there in different parts of the world.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Franin

Hi all 
trying to figure out why Frame Interpolation is greyed out on the 6050UB ?

Thanks


----------



## biglen

Franin said:


> Hi all
> 
> trying to figure out why Frame Interpolation is greyed out on the 6050UB ?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Make sure your source is 1080p. It will be grayed out if your source is set to output 4k. Also, set Image Processing to Fine, and EDID to Expanded. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Franin

biglen said:


> Make sure your source is 1080p. It will be grayed out if your source is set to output 4k. Also, set Image Processing to Fine, and EDID to Expanded.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




Thank you will try now


----------



## skylarlove1999

Franin said:


> Hi all
> 
> trying to figure out why Frame Interpolation is greyed out on the 6050UB ?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Frame Interpolation can only be used when the projector is being sent a 1080P signal. Your source device can be upconverting the 1080P content to 4K. Your AVR can be upconverting the 1080P content to 4K. You need to turn that upconversion off in those devices.

The image processing needs to be set to Fine not Fast. You can have 4K enhancement set to On or Off. The manual says Frame Interpolation can only be used with 4K enhancement if the signal being sent is 1080P at 24 Hz. I don't believe that part because I have used FI with a 1080P 60Hz signal with 4K enhancement engaged. 

The Frame Interpolation features are defined starting on page 81 of the manual. The chart is on page 89.












Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Franin

biglen said:


> Make sure your source is 1080p. It will be grayed out if your source is set to output 4k. Also, set Image Processing to Fine, and EDID to Expanded.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk




Thanks works well


----------



## Franin

skylarlove1999 said:


> Frame Interpolation can only be used when the projector is being sent a 1080P signal. Your source device can be upconverting the 1080P content to 4K. Your AVR can be upconverting the 1080P content to 4K. You need to turn that upconversion off in those devices.
> 
> The image processing needs to be set to Fine not Fast. You can have 4K enhancement set to On or Off. The manual says Frame Interpolation can only be used with 4K enhancement if the signal being sent is 1080P at 24 Hz. I don't believe that part because I have used FI with a 1080P 60Hz signal with 4K enhancement engaged.
> 
> The Frame Interpolation features are defined starting on page 81 of the manual. The chart is on page 89.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




Thank you


----------



## Sekosche

Got my 5050 in late today but didn’t get to play with it much. It just barely fit on the temporary shelf I mounted the other day for the last projector. I think something in my receiver’s output settings that I had locked to 1080p to work with a Darbee processor for my last setup prevented the 5050 from receiving a signal, tried both the HDMI inputs. However, I plugged a 4K Roku directly into the 5050, and it worked fine, so I’m confident it’s a receiver setting issue.

I replaced my HDMI cable with an 18gbps rated 50’ cable in 2018 when I swapped projectors, so it shouldn’t be the cable either. I’ll have to hook up the old projector again tomorrow and fiddle with the receiver’s settings some more.

After a quick projector setup and panel alignment (red was off quite a bit vertical and a little horizontal and the blue a smidge as well), I briefly streamed a few minutes from Disney+ and Netflix and both looked excellent. Unfortunately, with my limited throw distance the image doesn’t quite fit the screen; I really need another inch or two throw depth to work with. So I’ll probably downsize screens a tad and move the seating up a little. I actually have a spare 100” white pull down screen that was my starter screen not too many years ago, but I wasn’t thrilled with its quality; it’s 1.3 gain had visible sparkles/hot spots with the last setup.

I’m loving how easy all the motorized lens adjustments make setting the 5050 up, and being able to focus with your eyes only a foot or two from the screen really helps dial things in beautifully. The image is very sharp and very uniform from edge to edge, much more so than the 3700, which already did a solid job in this area. Well, not a lot of impressions to be had yet, but luckily I’m off work until Saturday and the weather is just terrible all week to get any yard work done... guess I’m stuck playing with the 5050.


----------



## Franin

Hi all
Picked up the 6050UB and have to say im very impressed. The PQ is not bad at all. Has a nice lens on it too and the lens shift is fast ( Which I like ).


----------



## biglen

Sekosche said:


> Got my 5050 in late today but didn’t get to play with it much. It just barely fit on the temporary shelf I mounted the other day for the last projector. I think something in my receiver’s output settings that I had locked to 1080p to work with a Darbee processor for my last setup prevented the 5050 from receiving a signal, tried both the HDMI inputs. However, I plugged a 4K Roku directly into the 5050, and it worked fine, so I’m confident it’s a receiver setting issue.
> 
> I replaced my HDMI cable with an 18gbps rated 50’ cable in 2018 when I swapped projectors, so it shouldn’t be the cable either. I’ll have to hook up the old projector again tomorrow and fiddle with the receiver’s settings some more.
> 
> After a quick projector setup and panel alignment (red was off quite a bit vertical and a little horizontal and the blue a smidge as well), I briefly streamed a few minutes from Disney+ and Netflix and both looked excellent. Unfortunately, with my limited throw distance the image doesn’t quite fit the screen; I really need another inch or two throw depth to work with. So I’ll probably downsize screens a tad and move the seating up a little. I actually have a spare 100” white pull down screen that was my starter screen not too many years ago, but I wasn’t thrilled with its quality; it’s 1.3 gain had visible sparkles/hot spots with the last setup.
> 
> I’m loving how easy all the motorized lens adjustments make setting the 5050 up, and being able to focus with your eyes only a foot or two from the screen really helps dial things in beautifully. The image is very sharp and very uniform from edge to edge, much more so than the 3700, which already did a solid job in this area. Well, not a lot of impressions to be had yet, but luckily I’m off work until Saturday and the weather is just terrible all week to get any yard work done... guess I’m stuck playing with the 5050.


What's on the other side of that wall that you have the projector on? Maybe you can build a box into the wall, like I did, and give you that extra throw distance.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Franin said:


> Hi all
> 
> Picked up the 6050UB and have to say im very impressed. The PQ is not bad at all. Has a nice lens on it too and the lens shift is fast ( Which I like ).


It's kinda weird to hear someone say "The PQ is not bad at all". All I've ever heard, is the PQ is amazing. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sekosche

biglen said:


> What's on the other side of that wall that you have the projector on? Maybe you can build a box into the wall, like I did, and give you that extra throw distance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



That is a great idea. Unfortunately, there’s a bedroom in use on the other side, but I did joke about doing just that with the wife a few weeks back and she just shook her head. One day I may rearrange the room and project from 14’ away, but for now using the long wall for the screen works a lot better. It’s really ok, as I needed to get a white screen anyway as the dark gray one served me well in bright rooms, but total light control is awesome! I can also include the current screen with my other two PJ’s when they eventually sell as an added bonus.

I figure move the seating up a half foot and shrink the screen a few inches will about even out. I almost went with the BenQ 3550 because it’s throw was more appropriate for my placement, but I knew I’d be missing the higher contrast, lower latency, and RBE’s if I went that route, plus I’ve really enjoyed my last two Epson PJ’s.

Building some new shelving for the media closet today then I’ll dive into the 5050 and get it rocking!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Sekosche said:


> That is a great idea. Unfortunately, there’s a bedroom in use on the other side, but I did joke about doing just that with the wife a few weeks back and she just shook her head. One day I may rearrange the room and project from 14’ away, but for now using the long wall for the screen works a lot better. It’s really ok, as I needed to get a white screen anyway as the dark gray one served me well in bright rooms, but total light control is awesome! I can also include the current screen with my other two PJ’s when they eventually sell as an added bonus.
> 
> I figure move the seating up a half foot and shrink the screen a few inches will about even out. I almost went with the BenQ 3550 because it’s throw was more appropriate for my placement, but I knew I’d be missing the higher contrast, lower latency, and RBE’s if I went that route, plus I’ve really enjoyed my last two Epson PJ’s.
> 
> Building some new shelving for the media closet today then I’ll dive into the 5050 and get it rocking!


You can put a tall armoire on that bedroom wall with enough room to put the projector inside on a shelf and shoot through an opening in the wall. Wife won't even notice 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sekosche

Well dang, somehow it is my fairly new and supposedly rated for 18Gbps HDMI cable not cooperating with the 5050 even though it worked great with my 3700 the last two years. I tried half a dozen shorter cables and they all worked fine with the 5050, most of which are older and probably aren’t rated for more than 10Gbps. Guess it’s another trip to BB for a 25’ cable that will hopefully work to get this thing set up today! Once I route all the cables through the attic and drop down into the AV closet I’ll only need about 20’ to 25’ to make it work, hopefully the only one in stock today works.


----------



## Luminated67

Sekosche said:


> Well dang, somehow it is my fairly new and supposedly rated for 18Gbps HDMI cable not cooperating with the 5050 even though it worked great with my 3700 the last two years. I tried half a dozen shorter cables and they all worked fine with the 5050, most of which are older and probably aren’t rated for more than 10Gbps. Guess it’s another trip to BB for a 25’ cable that will hopefully work to get this thing set up today! Once I route all the cables through the attic and drop down into the AV closet I’ll only need about 20’ to 25’ to make it work, hopefully the only one in stock today works.


Just make sure the cable you buy is an Optical HDMI and you shall be fine.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Sekosche said:


> Well dang, somehow it is my fairly new and supposedly rated for 18Gbps HDMI cable not cooperating with the 5050 even though it worked great with my 3700 the last two years. I tried half a dozen shorter cables and they all worked fine with the 5050, most of which are older and probably aren’t rated for more than 10Gbps. Guess it’s another trip to BB for a 25’ cable that will hopefully work to get this thing set up today! Once I route all the cables through the attic and drop down into the AV closet I’ll only need about 20’ to 25’ to make it work, hopefully the only one in stock today works.


With anything 25 feet and over you will probably need a fiber optic. Some people have had great success with Blue Jeans cables as well.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-FURUI-H...gbps+100&qid=1589394448&sprefix=furui+&sr=8-3

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Sekosche said:


> Well dang, somehow it is my fairly new and supposedly rated for 18Gbps HDMI cable not cooperating with the 5050 even though it worked great with my 3700 the last two years. I tried half a dozen shorter cables and they all worked fine with the 5050, most of which are older and probably aren’t rated for more than 10Gbps. Guess it’s another trip to BB for a 25’ cable that will hopefully work to get this thing set up today! Once I route all the cables through the attic and drop down into the AV closet I’ll only need about 20’ to 25’ to make it work, hopefully the only one in stock today works.


I have the 35' BJC Series 3 Active. I can confirm it works 100% with the 5050, and it puts out full 4k. No need to spend any more than that for a cable. 

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Sekosche

Thanks everyone! The 25’ cable I reluctantly grabbed at BB(overpriced as usual) did the trick and is just long enough to reach, though I can’t hide the cables as well without a few more feet. I’d rather have the BJC for the money, but this will work for now. I should probably order a better one for when I route them into the attic. I have to get the new shelves into the media closet and paint/mount the new shelf for the 5050 and will be ready to rock!


----------



## biglen

Sekosche said:


> Thanks everyone! The 25’ cable I reluctantly grabbed at BB(overpriced as usual) did the trick and is just long enough to reach, though I can’t hide the cables as well without a few more feet. I’d rather have the BJC for the money, but this will work for now. I should probably order a better one for when I route them into the attic. I have to get the new shelves into the media closet and paint/mount the new shelf for the 5050 and will be ready to rock!


Order the BJC, then when it comes, return the BB one. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jklow888

Franin said:


> Hi all
> Picked up the 6050UB and have to say im very impressed. The PQ is not bad at all. Has a nice lens on it too and the lens shift is fast ( Which I like ).





biglen said:


> It's kinda weird to hear someone say "The PQ is not bad at all". All I've ever heard, is the PQ is amazing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Did you get the 6050/9400 for the interim while you wait for your NX9 to be repaired ? At normal seating how would you compare the PQ against the NX9 on a scale of 1-10 ?


----------



## skylarlove1999

jklow888 said:


> Did you get the 6050/9400 for the interim while you wait for your NX9 to be repaired ? At normal seating how would you compare the PQ against the NX9 on a scale of 1-10 ?


I too would love to hear @Franin opinion on the differences between the two.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> I too would love to hear @Franin opinion on the differences between the two.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Can’t believe it’s even close but if he said it didn’t disgrace itself against the NX9 I would happy, after all the NX9 is multiple times more expensive than our Epson. During this lockdown across the world I’m finding myself using the cinema room more often than ever and oddly the more I’m using the projector I feel the better it’s getting, it’s like an engine loosening up after a few thousand miles, the photos I’m taking are amazing to the point I question whether I would want to spend more to have a NX5.


----------



## covsound1

Sekosche said:


> That is a great idea. Unfortunately, there’s a bedroom in use on the other side, but I did joke about doing just that with the wife a few weeks back and she just shook her head. One day I may rearrange the room and project from 14’ away, but for now using the long wall for the screen works a lot better. It’s really ok, as I needed to get a white screen anyway as the dark gray one served me well in bright rooms, but total light control is awesome! I can also include the current screen with my other two PJ’s when they eventually sell as an added bonus.
> 
> I figure move the seating up a half foot and shrink the screen a few inches will about even out. I almost went with the BenQ 3550 because it’s throw was more appropriate for my placement, but I knew I’d be missing the higher contrast, lower latency, and RBE’s if I went that route, plus I’ve really enjoyed my last two Epson PJ’s.
> 
> Building some new shelving for the media closet today then I’ll dive into the 5050 and get it rocking!


humm! Did i just get the idea to put my 5040 to use in my bedroom? A 100inch 240 to 1 wide screen to replace my 65 inch oled.


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> Can’t believe it’s even close but if he said it didn’t disgrace itself against the NX9 I would happy, after all the NX9 is multiple times more expensive than our Epson. During this lockdown across the world I’m finding myself using the cinema room more often than ever and oddly the more I’m using the projector I feel the better it’s getting, it’s like an engine loosening up after a few thousand miles, the photos I’m taking are amazing to the point I question whether I would want to spend more to have a NX5.


Looked at your video total recall,all i can say is wow that 1080p looked just as good as the 4k. At 6500$ no way for a NX5 but a NX7 at that price something to think about?


----------



## Franin

I will say this Epson is no slouch for what its priced it really throws an impressive picture.I didnt even know it had a glass lens. Ive never had Epson before, Ive never even looked at one until I was offered one quite cheap. Between the NX9 and the Epson you can see the difference colours, contrast and resolution. But if you haven’t seen a NX9, I personally will still be very happy with this Epson.



I will say though I used to be an owner of the Sony 885es and 995es laser projectors and in my opinion the Epson performs so much better in low light scenes than any on of those two on HDR, I kid you not. I used to be very active on those threads and as an owner and you will see that I had to play around with the HDR Optimizer DR on the Panasonic UB9000 to try find a happy medium to get it right.



Prime example was Jurassic World Fallen Kingdom the opening scene, the Sony has like a black shadow pixelation that looked horrible. 

With the Epson I just set it and looked awesome no issue ( scratching my head thinking how can a $30K + projector get it so wrong ). I also tried another scene in the movie Ghost in the Shell again black shadow pixelation, Epson no issue. 



Though the colours, bright scenes and resolution those Sony projectors win against the Epson but if your someone who needs to have low light scene right , you will go the Epson Route than the Sony due to how it handles in low light scenes. That will be Sony’s only flaw with the low light but the rest it looks awesome. 



Regarding the NX9 I play the 4k UHD Spears and Munsil disc quite a lot when I adjust setting etc and I can see the difference between all the Projectors. My NX9 has the Vertical stripe issue and hopefully will get fixed but if it doesn’t and I get a refund Im going to stick with the Epson. 



I got a good lens on my Epson its sharp and there was little convergence which only took 4 clicks to get it perfect. This projector apart from the blacks is better than my JVC X5900be I used to own. 



I will say that Im impressed with this projector and its scary to admit that it can preform (especially in low light scenes as mentioned above) at times better than the $30K+



Im still gobsmacked on how good this projector is for its price.


----------



## Sekosche

Wow, that’s high praise for the 5050/6050 versus those top tier PJ’s from @Franin

I haven’t experienced anything nicer than the 5050, but my brief time today with it places it in a completely different league than the outgoing 3700. I’ve only watched two full movies so far, and one was a 90’s throw back on Netflix with the family so the source material was pretty bad, no judgement there; so I stayed up late with my oldest son to watch Avengers: Infinity War, and the UHD disc truly looked amazing. I’ve got a few dozen more UHD discs to rewatch now for the first time on a capable display! 

Compared to the Epson 3700, I’m noticing such a drastic change in the depth of the image, which I guess comes from the big increase in contrast/black level and expanded colors, but I’m really loving the added resolution and perfectly uniform focus across the screen too. I’ve never witnessed so much detail in Infinity War before; all the little brilliant pops of color throughout, coupled with bright white and orange highlights on various character’s suits and set pieces really explode on the screen in a blacked out room.

What do most people seem to prefer for the HDR slider? I know there may be a lot of variables at play, but in my room, I used mostly 4-5 today demoing a few minutes of Alita, Alien, and Infinity War, but I can see how it might be very movie and user specific.

Tomorrow I’m planning to watch Avengers: End Game and maybe a couple darker films like It and A Quiet Place and also get the PS4 hooked up to finally game on the big screen again. I use a 32” 2K resolution monitor on my gaming PC, but the image quality is nothing to sneeze at, so I’m curious the differences I’ll see.

The 5050UB is awesome!


----------



## Franin

jklow888 said:


> Did you get the 6050/9400 for the interim while you wait for your NX9 to be repaired ? At normal seating how would you compare the PQ against the NX9 on a scale of 1-10 ?




Yes got a good price on it


----------



## Franin

Sekosche said:


> Wow, that’s high praise for the 5050 versus those top tier PJ’s from @Franin
> 
> I haven’t experienced anything nicer than the 5050, but my brief time today with it places it in a completely different league than the outgoing 3700. I’ve only watched two full movies so far, and one was a 90’s throw back on Netflix with the family so the source material was pretty bad, no judgement there; so I stayed up late with my oldest son to watch Avengers: Infinity War, and the UHD disc truly looked amazing. I’ve got a few dozen more UHD discs to rewatch now for the first time on a capable display!
> 
> Compared to the Epson 3700, I’m noticing such a drastic change in the depth of the image, which I guess comes from the big increase in contrast/black level and expanded colors, but I’m really loving the added resolution and perfectly uniform focus across the screen too. I’ve never witnessed so much detail in Infinity War before; all the little brilliant pops of color throughout, coupled with bright white and orange highlights on various character’s suits and set pieces really explode on the screen in a blacked out room.
> 
> What do most people seem to prefer for the HDR slider? I know there may be a lot of variables at play, but in my room, I used mostly 4-5 today demoing a few minutes of Alita, Alien, and Infinity War, but I can see how it might be very movie and user specific.
> 
> Tomorrow I’m planning to watch Avengers: End Game and maybe a couple darker films like It and A Quiet Place and also get the PS4 hooked up to finally game on the big screen again. I use a 32” 2K resolution monitor on my gaming PC, but the image quality is nothing to sneeze at, so I’m curious the differences I’ll see.
> 
> The 5050UB is awesome!



Today I’m trying HDR 2020 to SDR 2020 on Panasonic UB 420 and looks even better. It’s still HDR but the HDR is done on Panasonic Player instead. I’ve set the DR at +1 on the Panasonic and 49 brightness on the Epson. Looks awesome I’ve tried the Meg, Ghost in the shell chapter 10 fantastic. I just about to try Jurassic Park Fallen Kindom.


----------



## Luminated67

Franin said:


> Today I’m trying HDR 2020 to SDR 2020 on Panasonic UB 420 and looks even better. It’s still HDR but the HDR is done on Panasonic Player instead. I’ve set the DR at +1 on the Panasonic and 49 brightness on the Epson. Looks awesome I’ve tried the Meg, Ghost in the shell chapter 10 fantastic. I just about to try Jurassic Park Fallen Kindom.


Jurassic World FK was the first one I tried with the Panny on SDR 2020 and I must say I actually felt the blacks looked more convincing and there was more detail in the shadows, I'm sure the DTM on the JVC is even better again but I am more than happy with how things look now.


----------



## Luminated67

Franin said:


> I will say this Epson is no slouch for what its priced it really throws an impressive picture.I didnt even know it had a glass lens. Ive never had Epson before, Ive never even looked at one until I was offered one quite cheap. Between the NX9 and the Epson you can see the difference colours, contrast and resolution. But if you haven’t seen a NX9, I personally will still be very happy with this Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> I will say though I used to be an owner of the Sony 885es and 995es laser projectors and in my opinion the Epson performs so much better in low light scenes than any on of those two on HDR, I kid you not. I used to be very active on those threads and as an owner and you will see that I had to play around with the HDR Optimizer DR on the Panasonic UB9000 to try find a happy medium to get it right.
> 
> 
> 
> Prime example was Jurassic World Fallen Kingdom the opening scene, the Sony has like a black shadow pixelation that looked horrible.
> 
> With the Epson I just set it and looked awesome no issue ( scratching my head thinking how can a $30K + projector get it so wrong ). I also tried another scene in the movie Ghost in the Shell again black shadow pixelation, Epson no issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Though the colours, bright scenes and resolution those Sony projectors win against the Epson but if your someone who needs to have low light scene right , you will go the Epson Route than the Sony due to how it handles in low light scenes. That will be Sony’s only flaw with the low light but the rest it looks awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding the NX9 I play the 4k UHD Spears and Munsil disc quite a lot when I adjust setting etc and I can see the difference between all the Projectors. My NX9 has the Vertical stripe issue and hopefully will get fixed but if it doesn’t and I get a refund Im going to stick with the Epson.
> 
> 
> 
> I got a good lens on my Epson its sharp and there was little convergence which only took 4 clicks to get it perfect. *This projector apart from the blacks is better than my JVC X5900be I used to own*.
> 
> 
> 
> I will say that Im impressed with this projector and its scary to admit that it can preform (especially in low light scenes as mentioned above) at times better than the $30K+
> 
> 
> 
> Im still gobsmacked on how good this projector is for its price.


Prior to the pandemic I got a chance to see an X5900 a mate of a mate bought and want me to check out, room wise it was very similar to my own with velvet curtains along to sides and a suspended ceiling with those non reflective tiles. I watched stuff I already owned and though I knew the blacks were better in isolation they didn't appear to be night and day better, on reflection I would say they were a better shade of black than my Epson, at the time though I didn't say it to the guy I reckon my Epson threw a sharper image which was confirmed once I got back to my own room and replayed the same scenes.

I was glad I went because prior to this guys on the UK Forum had me doubting myself with thoughts I should have spent more and bought the X5900 but that viewing convinced me I had spent my money wisely and got way better value for my hard earned dosh.

When I think my entire home cinema room with everything in it, all the equipments, the chairs, rugs and fully walls/ceiling treatment cost me less than the price of an NX5 I class this as a results, especially when my speakers which admittedly I built myself can outperform branded ones costing multiple times more than what mine cost me. 

My Home Cinema Build


----------



## Franin

Luminated67 said:


> Jurassic World FK was the first one I tried with the Panny on SDR 2020 and I must say I actually felt the blacks looked more convincing and there was more detail in the shadows, I'm sure the DTM on the JVC is even better again but I am more than happy with how things look now.




I would be happy, the blacks are not that bad at all.


----------



## Franin

Luminated67 said:


> Prior to the pandemic I got a chance to see an X5900 a mate of a mate bought and want me to check out, room wise it was very similar to my own with velvet curtains along to sides and a suspended ceiling with those non reflective tiles. I watched stuff I already owned and though I knew the blacks were better in isolation they didn't appear to be night and day better, on reflection I would say they were a better shade of black than my Epson, at the time though I didn't say it to the guy I reckon my Epson threw a sharper image which was confirmed once I got back to my own room and replayed the same scenes.
> 
> 
> 
> I was glad I went because prior to this guys on the UK Forum had me doubting myself with thoughts I should have spent more and bought the X5900 but that viewing convinced me I had spent my money wisely and got way better value for my hard earned dosh.
> 
> 
> 
> When I think my entire home cinema room with everything in it, all the equipments, the chairs, rugs and fully walls/ceiling treatment cost me less than the price of an NX5 I class this as a results, especially when my speakers which admittedly I built myself can outperform branded ones costing multiple times more than what mine cost me.
> 
> 
> 
> My Home Cinema Build




Just saw your build looks good.


----------



## Luminated67

covsound1 said:


> Looked at your video total recall,all i can say is wow that 1080p looked just as good as the 4k. At 6500$ no way for a NX5 but a NX7 at that price something to think about?


Alas that video is not even close to how it looks in real life, the images is exactly how it looks when the movie is running.


----------



## Luminated67

Franin said:


> Just saw your build looks good.


Thanks, I think the title ‘Modest’ is about right because there’s nothing flash about it. LOL

I would love to have something like an NX9 or would be even happy with the N7 but I just can’t justify the spend and if you know anything about Northern Ireland people you will know our reputation of being tight with our money is true. 

I currently have my other house to sell so if that comes off who knows what I might do...... maybe watch this space.


----------



## Franin

Luminated67 said:


> Thanks, I think the title ‘Modest’ is about right because there’s nothing flash about it. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to have something like an NX9 or would be even happy with the N7 but I just can’t justify the spend and if you know anything about Northern Ireland people you will know our reputation of being tight with our money is true.
> 
> 
> 
> I currently have my other house to sell so if that comes off who knows what I might do...... maybe watch this space.




Honestly hang onto the Epson, troubles I had with high end projectors I will never spend the money again. I’d wait a couple of years.


----------



## Luminated67

Franin said:


> Honestly hang onto the Epson, troubles I had with high end projectors I will never spend the money again. I’d wait a couple of years.


To be honest with you if Epson offered a native 4K with DTM I probably would buy that ahead of all others simply because I’m so impressed with my 9400.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> To be honest with you if Epson offered a native 4K with DTM I probably would buy that ahead of all others simply because I’m so impressed with my 9400.


I appreciate your opinion and candor. Sorry you will never be allowed back into the JVC 4K projectors owners thread even after your get your NX9 back. Like ever. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sekosche

Watching Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse and good grief this projector is incredible! We watched this movie several times at the last house for the epic bass alone, and the difference in image quality between the 3700 and 5050UB is staggering. I’m guessing some of it is much better light control in a dedicated room, but I’m seeing colors and detail I never knew existed and the black level is excellent.

I feel like a kid on Christmas, and I’m so glad I went for the UB series this time around or I would have always wondered. Still waiting on a pair of PSA subwoofers to be delivered and the system will be complete!


----------



## Sekosche

Curious of everyone’s opinion on how the 5050 handles HDR versus the competition/options. How much better would you rate the HDR tone mapping using the Panny 420, say on a scale of 1-5, with 1 being just a slight improvement over how it’s handled and 5 being such a drastic difference the HDR basically looked like garbage before and now it’s incredible.

With such limited experience for comparison, I feel the HDR quality is pretty solid out of the box. Of course, everything is a huge step up for me at his point, so it’s difficult for me to judge. But if it looks good to me I guess that’s what matters.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Sekosche said:


> Curious of everyone’s opinion on how the 5050 handles HDR versus the competition/options. How much better would you rate the HDR tone mapping using the Panny 420, say on a scale of 1-5, with 1 being just a slight improvement over how it’s handled and 5 being such a drastic difference the HDR basically looked like garbage before and now it’s incredible.
> 
> With such limited experience for comparison, I feel the HDR quality is pretty solid out of the box. Of course, everything is a huge step up for me at his point, so it’s difficult for me to judge. But if it looks good to me I guess that’s what matters.


Best Buy has 30 day return policy and free shipping or curbside pickup. We could all give our opinions but we all have different size screens, painted walls, different screen material, different in room paint colors/velvet, lighting, etc. We all have different ways our eyes enjoy picture. Some people prefer a more accurate color palette. Some people like more saturation, brightness and percieved pop which sacrifices other elements of picture quality. The point is you can and should just test it out for yourself. You have nothing to lose. Accept maybe money if you fail to return in 30 days or if you decide to keep the 420.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Sekosche said:


> Curious of everyone’s opinion on how the 5050 handles HDR versus the competition/options. How much better would you rate the HDR tone mapping using the Panny 420, say on a scale of 1-5, with 1 being just a slight improvement over how it’s handled and 5 being such a drastic difference the HDR basically looked like garbage before and now it’s incredible.
> 
> With such limited experience for comparison, I feel the HDR quality is pretty solid out of the box. Of course, everything is a huge step up for me at his point, so it’s difficult for me to judge. But if it looks good to me I guess that’s what matters.


That’s a very tricky question to answer because the Epson itself does a bloody decent job in its own right, but you have to tweak it from time to time and occasionally even during the movie as I found with the latest Predator movie. What the UB420 does is use the information built into the Bluray to set the level so reduces the guess work and base on the films I have watched so far gets it right every time.

It’s probably to best $150 (don’t know US prices) you’ll probably spend and as already said there’s a return policy so no harm done if it doesn’t meet your expectations.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> That’s a very tricky question to answer because the Epson itself does a bloody decent job in its own right, but you have to tweak it from time to time and occasionally even during the movie as I found with the latest Predator movie. What the UB420 does is use the information built into the Bluray to set the level so reduces the guess work and base on the films I have watched so far gets it right every time.
> 
> 
> 
> It’s probably to best $150 (don’t know US prices) you’ll probably spend and as already said there’s a return policy so no harm done if it doesn’t meet your expectations.


Does the 420 handle the tone mapping when we watch streaming videos on one of the apps, or just on the discs?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Does the 420 handle the tone mapping when we watch streaming videos on one of the apps, or just on the discs?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Don’t know at the moment because my beloved son decided to disconnect my Bluray player from my patch panel and I don’t know which one it’s connected into in the room behind my screen. Wee f’er. LOL


----------



## reechings

Sekosche said:


> Watching Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse and good grief this projector is incredible! We watched this movie several times at the last house for the epic bass alone, and the difference in image quality between the 3700 and 5050UB is staggering. I’m guessing some of it is much better light control in a dedicated room, but I’m seeing colors and detail I never knew existed and the black level is excellent.
> 
> I feel like a kid on Christmas, and I’m so glad I went for the UB series this time around or I would have always wondered. Still waiting on a pair of PSA subwoofers to be delivered and the system will be complete!


Nice to hear your happiness with the upgrade. I currently have the Epson 3100 and was curious how much of a jump it will be, especially black levels when I eventually get the 5050 or 6050.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Don’t know at the moment because my beloved son decided to disconnect my Bluray player from my patch panel and I don’t know which one it’s connected into in the room behind my screen. Wee f’er. LOL


I'm SO glad I don't have kids around anymore....

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> I'm SO glad I don't have kids around anymore....
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


With all this time at home maybe it's time to work on a new batch 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> With all this time at home maybe it's time to work on a new batch
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I got snipped.....

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> I got snipped.....
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Hahaha I'm in the same boat. Just for fun then I guess 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

reechings said:


> With all this time at home maybe it's time to work on a new batch
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I’m pretty sure from his above statement that this isn’t an option he would relish and one I would happen to agree with, NO F’ING WAY. 



biglen said:


> I got snipped.....
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


HELL NO....... I’ve crossed my legs at the thought of it. 



reechings said:


> Hahaha I'm in the same boat. Just for fun then I guess
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


30 years of marriage......... there’s a ‘NO ENTRY’ sign there with constant road works.


----------



## noob00224

reechings said:


> Nice to hear your happiness with the upgrade. I currently have the Epson 3100 and was curious how much of a jump it will be, especially black levels when I eventually get the 5050 or 6050.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


What is the room like, color of walls, ambient light, type of screen fabric?


----------



## reechings

noob00224 said:


> What is the room like, color of walls, ambient light, type of screen fabric?


Room still needs some work. Planning to paint ceiling a flat black (whitish ceiling tile right now) with dark grey walls (it's a greenish grey right now). Recently installed a 135" Elunevision reference 4K fixed frame screen. Complete light control with no windows.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

reechings said:


> Room still needs some work. Planning to paint ceiling a flat black (whitish ceiling tile right now) with dark grey walls (it's a greenish grey right now). Recently installed a 135" Elunevision reference 4K fixed frame screen. Complete light control with no windows.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



It does not have to be black. This post onward:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-g...oms/3110152-paint-vs-velvet.html#post58982020

There will definitely be better black level to the UB series. It has ~4000 native contrast vs. ~2000 on the HC3100. The overall picture quality will be improved.

This is what an untreated environment does to black level:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/


----------



## reechings

noob00224 said:


> It does not have to be black. This post onward:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-g...oms/3110152-paint-vs-velvet.html#post58982020
> 
> There will definitely be better black level to the UB series. It has ~4000 native contrast vs. ~2000 on the HC3100. The overall picture quality will be improved.
> 
> This is what an untreated environment does to black level:
> https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/


Yeah I've talked to @MississippiMan a few times and that's actually the grey I plan to use for the walls. I have been debating using it for the ceiling too but I'm worried it might be an overload of grey.

That Facebook clip is awesome! I'm really looking forward to doing something with the ceiling in particular. Part of me is tempted to black velvet the whole ceiling but I think it would be too hard to make it look good.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

reechings said:


> Yeah I've talked to @*MississippiMan* a few times and that's actually the grey I plan to use for the walls. I have been debating using it for the ceiling too but I'm worried it might be an overload of grey.
> 
> That Facebook clip is awesome! I'm really looking forward to doing something with the ceiling in particular. Part of me is tempted to black velvet the whole ceiling but I think it would be too hard to make it look good.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Black velvet is great and not that hard to install. The area that will help the most is ~5' from the screen, including the screen wall, floor (dark rug), and ceiling. Black velvet is like a black hole. It will make the screen like it's floating. 

Not sure if you've thought about it, but black velvet can also make a difference if used in masking. While the UB series is not bad, black bars can still be visible. Masking can make a difference.
Thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...1465053-blacker-theater-better-image-249.html

Does not have to be expensive:
https://syfabrics.com/collections/plush-triple-velvet/products/plush-triple-velvet1


----------



## biglen

When my guy calibrated my 5050, he left Auto Iris off on all the settings he made for me. Last night I turned it on during a dark scene, and I noticed what I believe to be called "pumping", which is when the screen gets dimmer and brighter. If I recall, I think the Iris is set to 1. Would moving that slider either way, eliminate the pumping, and if so, which way would I go with the slider?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

noob00224 said:


> Black velvet is great and not that hard to install. The area that will help the most is ~5' from the screen, including the screen wall, floor (dark rug), and ceiling. Black velvet is like a black hole. It will make the screen like it's floating.
> 
> Not sure if you've thought about it, but black velvet can also make a difference if used in masking. While the UB series is not bad, black bars can still be visible. Masking can make a difference.
> Thread:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...1465053-blacker-theater-better-image-249.html
> 
> Does not have to be expensive:
> https://syfabrics.com/collections/plush-triple-velvet/products/plush-triple-velvet1


Yeah I almost bought some before to try out. Only hesitation I had was that if have to use a bunch of tacks or staples to put it up and end up not liking it then I am stuck with fixing a bunch of little holes on the walls/ceiling.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

reechings said:


> Yeah I almost bought some before to try out. Only hesitation I had was that if have to use a bunch of tacks or staples to put it up and end up not liking it then I am stuck with fixing a bunch of little holes on the walls/ceiling.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


There are other ways of attaching fabric. With panels, curtains, or other. Check out the thread, others may have other ideas.


----------



## DarrinH

Frames will be covered with 1/8" plywood with curves on the front and a parabolic curve in the center then covered in velvet by spray adhesive. The velvet really creates a black hole for the reflected light.


----------



## Luminated67

@biglen I think I recalled you asking how the Panny looked with streaming 4K HDR with it switched to SDR 2020.






I thought it looked pretty good.

P.S. I locked the AE/AF on the camera and set the brightness as close to correct as I could so blacks were close to right.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> @biglen I think I recalled you asking how the Panny looked with streaming 4K HDR with it switched to SDR 2020.
> 
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/u4TvY0jTpFA
> 
> 
> 
> I thought it looked pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. I locked the AE/AF on the camera and set the brightness as close to correct as I could so blacks were close to right.


I think you are referring to when I asked if the 420 was handling the tone mapping when we stream from apps on the 420. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I think you are referring to when I asked if the 420 was handling the tone mapping when we stream from apps on the 420.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yep.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Yep.


The HDR slider is disabled when streaming, so I'm not sure if it's handling the tone mapping. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> The HDR slider is disabled when streaming, so I'm not sure if it's handling the tone mapping.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Do you mean the one on the Epson or the one on the Panasonic?


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Do you mean the one on the Epson or the one on the Panasonic?


The 420. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

I would suggest not using the Panasonic players for streaming, this is an area where these incredible disc players fall short even when compared to an inexpensive Amazon/Roku 4K stick (let alone an Apple TV 4K).

That said, I do not think the Panasonic players do Tone Mapping for the streaming apps that are present, although I did not test it with every app.

- Jason


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> I would suggest not using the Panasonic players for streaming, this is an area where these incredible disc players fall short even when compared to an inexpensive Amazon/Roku 4K stick (let alone an Apple TV 4K).
> 
> 
> 
> That said, I do not think the Panasonic players do Tone Mapping for the streaming apps that are present, although I did not test it with every app.
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


It's the only media player I have that does Atmos with Netflix. It's great for Netflix, and it works perfectly. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## HAMMo7

noob00224 said:


> It does not have to be black. This post onward:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-g...oms/3110152-paint-vs-velvet.html#post58982020
> 
> There will definitely be better black level to the UB series. It has ~4000 native contrast vs. ~2000 on the HC3100. The overall picture quality will be improved.
> 
> This is what an untreated environment does to black level:
> https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/


I painted my ceiling tiles “Mocha”... made a HUGE difference in th picture


----------



## Sekosche

reechings said:


> Nice to hear your happiness with the upgrade. I currently have the Epson 3100 and was curious how much of a jump it will be, especially black levels when I eventually get the 5050 or 6050.



I did have a few days to briefly compare the 3700 in the new dedicated room before replacing it with the 5050; and although the 3700 showed some improvement in blacks with total light control versus the last house, I think the native contrast is just far too low on the 3,000 series to ever offer any real black level competition with movies and darker content. The 3700 was an excellent PJ for moderate ambient light environments and was a lot of fun for gaming too, but the 5050UB just destroys it in every regard, as it should for more than double the MSRP. IMO, the 5050 is easily worth the premium. For me, there’s absolutely nothing incremental about this projector upgrade.

The 5050’s picture has totally eliminated what I long perceived as a faint “haze” across the image with darker content that always left a very flat looking picture even in an optimal viewing environment. Perhaps this is due to the added contrast, black floor, color accuracy, light control, lens quality, processing, or a combination of all of the above; regardless, I’m smitten with the overall image thrown. With the addition of the 5050, I truly feel like my home theater aspirations are complete!


----------



## reechings

Sekosche said:


> I did have a few days to briefly compare the 3700 in the new dedicated room before replacing it with the 5050; and although the 3700 showed some improvement in blacks with total light control versus the last house, I think the native contrast is just far too low on the 3,000 series to ever offer any real black level competition with movies and darker content. The 3700 was an excellent PJ for moderate ambient light environments and was a lot of fun for gaming too, but the 5050UB just destroys it in every regard, as it should for more than double the MSRP. IMO, the 5050 is easily worth the premium. For me, there’s absolutely nothing incremental about this projector upgrade.
> 
> The 5050’s picture has totally eliminated what I long perceived as a faint “haze” across the image with darker content that always left a very flat looking picture even in an optimal viewing environment. Perhaps this is due to the added contrast, black floor, color accuracy, light control, lens quality, processing, or a combination of all of the above; regardless, I’m smitten with the overall image thrown. With the addition of the 5050, I truly feel like my home theater aspirations are complete!


That is all great news. I am humming and hawing on going full black velvet but I don't know if I like the look even if it does help with picture. Besides that I totally know what you mean about the haze on dark scenes. I find that the 3100 actually throws a darn good image for a lot of brighter scenes but can fall down hard on certain dark scenes (I'm looking at you GoT). It's kind of like how cheaper smartphones can take a good picture with the right lighting but fail bad on low light. Unfortunately the budget is a little tight right now but I'm trying to talk myself into making the jump to either the 5050 or 6050 sooner than later.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

biglen said:


> It's the only media player I have that does Atmos with Netflix. It's great for Netflix, and it works perfectly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That's good to hear, the last time I tried it on my 820 it was not doing HDR.

- Jason


----------



## Pretorian

The 6050 in action!


----------



## Luminated67

reechings said:


> That is all great news. I am humming and hawing on going full black velvet but I don't know if I like the look even if it does help with picture. Besides that I totally know what you mean about the haze on dark scenes. I find that the 3100 actually throws a darn good image for a lot of brighter scenes but can fall down hard on certain dark scenes (I'm looking at you GoT). It's kind of like how cheaper smartphones can take a good picture with the right lighting but fail bad on low light. Unfortunately the budget is a little tight right now but I'm trying to talk myself into making the jump to either the 5050 or 6050 sooner than later.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Do not hesitate about fully treating your room, as long as it’s a dedicated room and not dual purpose, I did it in mine and the difference was game changing. On AVForums I started a thread listing what I did and another the process of doing the wall/ceiling treatment which others have since copied and are over the moon with the results.

My Home Cinema

Self Adhesive Velour


----------



## noob00224

Sekosche said:


> I did have a few days to briefly compare the 3700 in the new dedicated room before replacing it with the 5050; and although the 3700 showed some improvement in blacks with total light control versus the last house, I think the native contrast is just far too low on the 3,000 series to ever offer any real black level competition with movies and darker content. The 3700 was an excellent PJ for moderate ambient light environments and was a lot of fun for gaming too, but the 5050UB just destroys it in every regard, as it should for more than double the MSRP. IMO, the 5050 is easily worth the premium. For me, there’s absolutely nothing incremental about this projector upgrade.
> 
> The 5050’s picture has totally eliminated what I long perceived as a faint “haze” across the image with darker content that always left a very flat looking picture even in an optimal viewing environment. Perhaps this is due to the added contrast, black floor, color accuracy, light control, lens quality, processing, or a combination of all of the above; regardless, I’m smitten with the overall image thrown. With the addition of the 5050, I truly feel like my home theater aspirations are complete!


I don't understand the first statement t_hat he 3700 showed some improvement in blacks with total light control versus the last house, _and the others relating to blacks.


----------



## Franin

This is from my Spears and Munsil disc UHD played on my Sony X800 4K player. What spins me out is how the Epson handles the DR. This is how the Epson TW-9400 handles it. I set the DR on the Epson at 10 and set the brightness using Spears snd munsil. It’s not calibrated and the Sony X800 doesn’t have any tone mapping ( none that I’ve seen, I haven’t seen anything to adjust ) apart from outputting 4:2:2. 

It’s impressive but I still can’t believe a projector at this price can handle the horse scene quite well. When I had the Sony laser not a chance. You had to adjust the DR on the Panasonic but even that you had too mess around with it on different films.

Another thing same setting on chapter 10 on Ghost in the Shell I could see wall, the pipes clearly etc


Edit : Forgot to mention this is from the 10000 Nit Selection


----------



## plain fan

Franin, thanks for posting your thoughts comparing the two projectors. It's not very often we get someone that has owned both JVC and Epson share their experiences. I read that you got the Epson while the JVC was being repaired, are you going to go back to the JVC?

You mentioned the Sony laser projector then adjusting a Panasonic, was this a Panasonic blu-ray player? If so, which model?


----------



## Franin

plain fan said:


> Franin, thanks for posting your thoughts comparing the two projectors. It's not very often we get someone that has owned both JVC and Epson share their experiences. I read that you got the Epson while the JVC was being repaired, are you going to go back to the JVC?
> 
> 
> 
> You mentioned the Sony laser projector then adjusting a Panasonic, was this a Panasonic blu-ray player? If so, which model?




The comparison was with the Sony Lasers I previously owned. I never forget how hard it was to get it right. I used a Panasonic UB9000 & 820 and I was for ever fiddling around with the dynamic range. 

I will definitely go back to the JVC unless I get a refund. You cannot beat its contrast etc. The NX9 is a different beast. 

I’m just surprised how good these projectors are for their price and how well they handle HDR. 

I’m keeping the Epson as a back up.


----------



## Luminated67

Franin said:


> The comparison was with the Sony Lasers I previously owned. I never forget how hard it was to get it right. I used a Panasonic UB9000 & 820 and I was for ever fiddling around with the dynamic range.
> 
> I will definitely go back to the JVC unless I get a refund. You cannot beat its contrast etc. The NX9 is a different beast.
> 
> I’m just surprised how good these projectors are for their price and how well they handle HDR.
> 
> I’m keeping the Epson as a back up.


Yeah the NX9 is other worldly by comparison so if they get it sorted it’s the one I would be using for sure. Your comments mimic mine because I have kept my Sony HW45 as a back up if I ever have to send the Epson in for repair or sell it on until I get a replacement. Though for the money I don’t think there’s another projector offering the same bang for your buck as the Epson does.


----------



## Franin

Luminated67 said:


> Yeah the NX9 is other worldly by comparison so if they get it sorted it’s the one I would be using for sure. Your comments mimic mine because I have kept my Sony HW45 as a back up if I ever have to send the Epson in for repair or sell it on until I get a replacement. Though for the money I don’t think there’s another projector offering the same bang for your buck as the Epson does.




I agree. 

I ended up going back too HDR-SDR 2020 on the Panny UB420 with the Epson. Don’t get me wrong epson hold it’s own with its DR but to get everything going 100% personally that’s the best way. That’s my opinion of course everyone sets it too what they think best


----------



## fakerus

I think pants should be mandatory in order to post pics in this thread. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GoHawks

Hello, I will be getting an Epson 6050 and mounting it behind a soffit that drops down 9.75 inches. Can anyone tell me the distance from the ceiling to the top of the lens if using the included chief mount? I would like to verify if I will need to buy an extension or if what is included will be enough. Thank you all for your help!


----------



## Luminated67

fakerus said:


> I think pants should be mandatory in order to post pics in this thread. Lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Agreed, just thank god the camera wasn’t a fish eye.


----------



## Azekecse

GoHawks said:


> Hello, I will be getting an Epson 6050 and mounting it behind a soffit that drops down 9.75 inches. Can anyone tell me the distance from the ceiling to the top of the lens if using the included chief mount? I would like to verify if I will need to buy an extension or if what is included will be enough. Thank you all for your help!


I owned the 6040UB previously, and it came with a 3" pipe. That doesn't seem to be enough clearance maybe ~5"-6" total from the ceiling to the lens, IIRC, but I'm not completely sure. Perhaps you should purchase a 9-12" adjustable pipe for your situation (i.e. Chief CMS009012 Adjustable Pipe 9"-12"), you can always return it if not needed. Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## reechings

Just curious if making an mdf style box closed on all sides except the front attached to the ceiling would make much of a difference noise wise compared to a ceiling mount since the exhaust fans would still be shooting out the front?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> Just curious if making an mdf style box closed on all sides except the front attached to the ceiling would make much of a difference noise wise compared to a ceiling mount since the exhaust fans would still be shooting out the front?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


Are you thinking it would be louder? I have mine in a box, that's built into the back wall. I sit right under it, and I don't think it's loud at all. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> Are you thinking it would be louder? I have mine in a box, that's built into the back wall. I sit right under it, and I don't think it's loud at all.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I was wondering if a box with the front open would make it much quieter or not. I have seen pictures of the fancier hush boxes with porting etc but I was thinking of something much more simple with three pieces of mdf connected to ceiling and back wall. I do notice medium lamp mode noise on my 3100 with ceiling mount above me and I'm figuring with HDR etc I would need to run the 5050 in medium a fair amount. Bonus would be that the white case of the 5050 would be hidden too 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Mine sits directly 2.5ft above me and apart from high lamp mode I class it quiet, barely hear the medium mode and never hear the e-shift at all.


----------



## reechings

Luminated67 said:


> Mine sits directly 2.5ft above me and apart from high lamp mode I class it quiet, barely hear the medium mode and never hear the e-shift at all.


That's good to hear, I'm pretty much in exact same situation with my projector being about that high directly above me.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## hungarianhc

Hello, 6050UB owners!

Alright so... I'm hoping you can help me out here. I have a living room / media room in my relatively new house (not new as in new construction, new as in we moved in a few months ago). The viewing distance from the TV is about 12 feet back, and I have an LG C9 77" sitting in our extra bedroom, waiting to be mounted. I have never built my own dedicated home theater space before, having been an apartment dweller before this. I spent some time on Yelp looking at some professional AV installs, and I found an installer / dealer who did absolutely gorgeous work. The fee for him to come out and analyze my house was not too much, and despite the fact that I have been combing the internet for months and months on home theater, I felt I could use someone's opinion.

He came out, did some measuring, and told me that my room was actually great for a projector. At my viewing distance, he said 100" or 110" would be so much cooler than a 77" experience, despite the C9 being an excellent TV. He told me about the 6050UB and how well it does, even in rooms that aren't blacked out (my room CAN get very dark, but there will be some day time / morning viewing in there as well). I told him I kinda wanted an HDMI 2.1 TV due to the new consoles, and that I'm a gamer... His perspective was that while HDMI 2.1 is great, it will be expensive at first, the benefits will be limited, and they will be outweighed by the awesomeness of a 100"+ viewing experience. This made sense to me... Rather than doing everything myself, I'm impressed with his workmanship, and I'm considering just "going for it" with the projector set up, which he'll have all automated with a motorized screen, URC remote, etc.

Some questions...

It looks like everyone on this forum pretty much loves the 6050UB. Right?
What about the pixel shifting 4K? I asked the AV guy about it, and he said he lets his eyes do the deciding, and he goes to a lot of tradeshows, and this thing looks awesome. Seems like the perspective is similar here. Anything else I should know?
Do any of you use this in rooms that have light in them? Thoughts?
What do you think... 77" C9? 100" w/ 6050UB? Or 85" Sony?
What about gaming on the 6050UB? I've read some reviews, and again, people seem to say it's a pretty good experience. I play 'em all: Switch, Stadia, PS4, etc.
I'm brand new to the world of projectors. Any general thoughts on projectors in a living room?
What about noise? My ceilings are about 9 feet up. How annoying is the fan noise?
No Dolby Vision... how much is this likely to impact my viewing HDR content / games?
Any other gotchas?

THANKS IN ADVANCE! I'm both excited and nervous about this potential entry into the world of projectors!


----------



## fakerus

reechings said:


> That's good to hear, I'm pretty much in exact same situation with my projector being about that high directly above me.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



That’s how mine is set up. I find it very distracting during low volume scenes. I keep in on bright cinema/eco mode. The E shift is the most annoying part. Although you can’t hear anything during action scenes. I got use to it at this point. I was also thinking about building a front open box and having it go 6” past the front on the projector to mute/redirect the fan noise. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

hungarianhc said:


> Hello, 6050UB owners!
> 
> Alright so... I'm hoping you can help me out here. I have a living room / media room in my relatively new house (not new as in new construction, new as in we moved in a few months ago). The viewing distance from the TV is about 12 feet back, and I have an LG C9 77" sitting in our extra bedroom, waiting to be mounted. I have never built my own dedicated home theater space before, having been an apartment dweller before this. I spent some time on Yelp looking at some professional AV installs, and I found an installer / dealer who did absolutely gorgeous work. The fee for him to come out and analyze my house was not too much, and despite the fact that I have been combing the internet for months and months on home theater, I felt I could use someone's opinion.
> 
> He came out, did some measuring, and told me that my room was actually great for a projector. At my viewing distance, he said 100" or 110" would be so much cooler than a 77" experience, despite the C9 being an excellent TV. He told me about the 6050UB and how well it does, even in rooms that aren't blacked out (my room CAN get very dark, but there will be some day time / morning viewing in there as well). I told him I kinda wanted an HDMI 2.1 TV due to the new consoles, and that I'm a gamer... His perspective was that while HDMI 2.1 is great, it will be expensive at first, the benefits will be limited, and they will be outweighed by the awesomeness of a 100"+ viewing experience. This made sense to me... Rather than doing everything myself, I'm impressed with his workmanship, and I'm considering just "going for it" with the projector set up, which he'll have all automated with a motorized screen, URC remote, etc.
> 
> Some questions...
> 
> It looks like everyone on this forum pretty much loves the 6050UB. Right?
> What about the pixel shifting 4K? I asked the AV guy about it, and he said he lets his eyes do the deciding, and he goes to a lot of tradeshows, and this thing looks awesome. Seems like the perspective is similar here. Anything else I should know?
> Do any of you use this in rooms that have light in them? Thoughts?
> What do you think... 77" C9? 100" w/ 6050UB? Or 85" Sony?
> What about gaming on the 6050UB? I've read some reviews, and again, people seem to say it's a pretty good experience. I play 'em all: Switch, Stadia, PS4, etc.
> I'm brand new to the world of projectors. Any general thoughts on projectors in a living room?
> What about noise? My ceilings are about 9 feet up. How annoying is the fan noise?
> No Dolby Vision... how much is this likely to impact my viewing HDR content / games?
> Any other gotchas?
> 
> THANKS IN ADVANCE! I'm both excited and nervous about this potential entry into the world of projectors!



Is this going to be your main tv room?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hungarianhc

fakerus said:


> Is this going to be your main tv room?


One of two - we have another room with the LG C9. That's the "play room" where the kids spend most of their time. Since the living room in our house has no furniture, and we only started living here a few months ago, I can't tell yet if I'll hang out in there all the time once we have a new setup... or if I'll just watch movies / play videogames at night. Probably mostly the latter, but will also want it for football games, when we get those back.


----------



## jaredmwright

hungarianhc said:


> Hello, 6050UB owners!
> 
> 
> 
> Alright so... I'm hoping you can help me out here. I have a living room / media room in my relatively new house (not new as in new construction, new as in we moved in a few months ago). The viewing distance from the TV is about 12 feet back, and I have an LG C9 77" sitting in our extra bedroom, waiting to be mounted. I have never built my own dedicated home theater space before, having been an apartment dweller before this. I spent some time on Yelp looking at some professional AV installs, and I found an installer / dealer who did absolutely gorgeous work. The fee for him to come out and analyze my house was not too much, and despite the fact that I have been combing the internet for months and months on home theater, I felt I could use someone's opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> He came out, did some measuring, and told me that my room was actually great for a projector. At my viewing distance, he said 100" or 110" would be so much cooler than a 77" experience, despite the C9 being an excellent TV. He told me about the 6050UB and how well it does, even in rooms that aren't blacked out (my room CAN get very dark, but there will be some day time / morning viewing in there as well). I told him I kinda wanted an HDMI 2.1 TV due to the new consoles, and that I'm a gamer... His perspective was that while HDMI 2.1 is great, it will be expensive at first, the benefits will be limited, and they will be outweighed by the awesomeness of a 100"+ viewing experience. This made sense to me... Rather than doing everything myself, I'm impressed with his workmanship, and I'm considering just "going for it" with the projector set up, which he'll have all automated with a motorized screen, URC remote, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Some questions...
> 
> 
> It looks like everyone on this forum pretty much loves the 6050UB. Right?
> 
> What about the pixel shifting 4K? I asked the AV guy about it, and he said he lets his eyes do the deciding, and he goes to a lot of tradeshows, and this thing looks awesome. Seems like the perspective is similar here. Anything else I should know?
> 
> Do any of you use this in rooms that have light in them? Thoughts?
> 
> What do you think... 77" C9? 100" w/ 6050UB? Or 85" Sony?
> 
> What about gaming on the 6050UB? I've read some reviews, and again, people seem to say it's a pretty good experience. I play 'em all: Switch, Stadia, PS4, etc.
> 
> I'm brand new to the world of projectors. Any general thoughts on projectors in a living room?
> 
> What about noise? My ceilings are about 9 feet up. How annoying is the fan noise?
> 
> No Dolby Vision... how much is this likely to impact my viewing HDR content / games?
> 
> Any other gotchas?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THANKS IN ADVANCE! I'm both excited and nervous about this potential entry into the world of projectors!


The one thing about the 6050ub to consider is the size. It is quite large and depending on your setup may matter. I absolutely wouldn't trade mine. It is a beast and puts out a great picture, you cannot tell it is not native 4K from standard viewing distance and it puts out a phenomenal picture for the price. 

Good luck on what you decide.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

reechings said:


> I was wondering if a box with the front open would make it much quieter or not. I have seen pictures of the fancier hush boxes with porting etc but I was thinking of something much more simple with three pieces of mdf connected to ceiling and back wall. I do notice medium lamp mode noise on my 3100 with ceiling mount above me and I'm figuring with HDR etc I would need to run the 5050 in medium a fair amount. Bonus would be that the white case of the 5050 would be hidden too
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I have the 5040ub that’s in my soffit with an open front. I gave the box lined with 1” wedge foam and it makes it quieter.


----------



## reechings

bluer101 said:


> I have the 5040ub that’s in my soffit with an open front. I gave the box lined with 1” wedge foam and it makes it quieter.


And you still have good airflow and doesn't get too hot?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## biglen

reechings said:


> And you still have good airflow and doesn't get too hot?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I'm going to install this in my box, just to be safe. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_7fkXEbR1K2VTV

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## reechings

biglen said:


> I'm going to install this in my box, just to be safe.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_7fkXEbR1K2VTV
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Just make sure it's not too loud lol

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

hungarianhc said:


> Hello, 6050UB owners!
> 
> Alright so... I'm hoping you can help me out here. I have a living room / media room in my relatively new house (not new as in new construction, new as in we moved in a few months ago). The viewing distance from the TV is about 12 feet back, and I have an LG C9 77" sitting in our extra bedroom, waiting to be mounted. I have never built my own dedicated home theater space before, having been an apartment dweller before this. I spent some time on Yelp looking at some professional AV installs, and I found an installer / dealer who did absolutely gorgeous work. The fee for him to come out and analyze my house was not too much, and despite the fact that I have been combing the internet for months and months on home theater, I felt I could use someone's opinion.
> 
> He came out, did some measuring, and told me that my room was actually great for a projector. At my viewing distance, he said 100" or 110" would be so much cooler than a 77" experience, despite the C9 being an excellent TV. He told me about the 6050UB and how well it does, even in rooms that aren't blacked out (my room CAN get very dark, but there will be some day time / morning viewing in there as well). I told him I kinda wanted an HDMI 2.1 TV due to the new consoles, and that I'm a gamer... His perspective was that while HDMI 2.1 is great, it will be expensive at first, the benefits will be limited, and they will be outweighed by the awesomeness of a 100"+ viewing experience. This made sense to me... Rather than doing everything myself, I'm impressed with his workmanship, and I'm considering just "going for it" with the projector set up, which he'll have all automated with a motorized screen, URC remote, etc.
> 
> Some questions...
> 
> It looks like everyone on this forum pretty much loves the 6050UB. Right?
> What about the pixel shifting 4K? I asked the AV guy about it, and he said he lets his eyes do the deciding, and he goes to a lot of tradeshows, and this thing looks awesome. Seems like the perspective is similar here. Anything else I should know?
> Do any of you use this in rooms that have light in them? Thoughts?
> What do you think... 77" C9? 100" w/ 6050UB? Or 85" Sony?
> What about gaming on the 6050UB? I've read some reviews, and again, people seem to say it's a pretty good experience. I play 'em all: Switch, Stadia, PS4, etc.
> I'm brand new to the world of projectors. Any general thoughts on projectors in a living room?
> What about noise? My ceilings are about 9 feet up. How annoying is the fan noise?
> No Dolby Vision... how much is this likely to impact my viewing HDR content / games?
> Any other gotchas?
> 
> THANKS IN ADVANCE! I'm both excited and nervous about this potential entry into the world of projectors!


Firstly let’s address this pixel shifting, it’s not quite as good as native 4K but you will struggle to see the difference from less than 7ft away from a 100” screen, from your suggested viewing distance all you will see is wonderfully crisp and detailed images. 

Now let’s discuss the room, some of us have a fully treated room and by this we mean our walls and ceiling are covered in a material which absorbs light rather than reflect it back again, I am not suggesting you do this if it’s a family room but you can do the next best thing and that’s use a screen that has the same effect, look at the likes of Screen Innovations or similar.

Noise from fans and the e-shift unit can be heard by some and they are annoying, others hear them but hardly notice and then some barely hear them at all, only you and your family can answer this one.

Which is better, your TV, a slightly bigger TV or a bigger again projector? This is a personal thing, I have the smaller 65” of the LG in my family room but I much prefer watching movies on my big screen, the LG gives a more polished look but the projector image is more organic and cinematic which I prefer, you might prefer the other so if you can try and go see one in action.

I personally can’t stress the importance of getting your projector calibrated, this is something I have felt lifted the Epson’s image to another level. Check out this thread I have put quite a few images from movies I have watched and there’s loads of other images from other projectors to compare against. 

I think HDR works best with TV but this isn’t to say projectors are crap because they aren’t it’s just TVs are better.

Hope all this helps.


----------



## noob00224

hungarianhc said:


> Hello, 6050UB owners!
> 
> Alright so... I'm hoping you can help me out here. I have a living room / media room in my relatively new house (not new as in new construction, new as in we moved in a few months ago). The viewing distance from the TV is about 12 feet back, and I have an LG C9 77" sitting in our extra bedroom, waiting to be mounted. I have never built my own dedicated home theater space before, having been an apartment dweller before this. I spent some time on Yelp looking at some professional AV installs, and I found an installer / dealer who did absolutely gorgeous work. The fee for him to come out and analyze my house was not too much, and despite the fact that I have been combing the internet for months and months on home theater, I felt I could use someone's opinion.
> 
> He came out, did some measuring, and told me that my room was actually great for a projector. At my viewing distance, he said 100" or 110" would be so much cooler than a 77" experience, despite the C9 being an excellent TV. He told me about the 6050UB and how well it does, even in rooms that aren't blacked out (my room CAN get very dark, but there will be some day time / morning viewing in there as well). I told him I kinda wanted an HDMI 2.1 TV due to the new consoles, and that I'm a gamer... His perspective was that while HDMI 2.1 is great, it will be expensive at first, the benefits will be limited, and they will be outweighed by the awesomeness of a 100"+ viewing experience. This made sense to me... Rather than doing everything myself, I'm impressed with his workmanship, and I'm considering just "going for it" with the projector set up, which he'll have all automated with a motorized screen, URC remote, etc.
> 
> Some questions...
> 
> It looks like everyone on this forum pretty much loves the 6050UB. Right?
> What about the pixel shifting 4K? I asked the AV guy about it, and he said he lets his eyes do the deciding, and he goes to a lot of tradeshows, and this thing looks awesome. Seems like the perspective is similar here. Anything else I should know?
> Do any of you use this in rooms that have light in them? Thoughts?
> What do you think... 77" C9? 100" w/ 6050UB? Or 85" Sony?
> What about gaming on the 6050UB? I've read some reviews, and again, people seem to say it's a pretty good experience. I play 'em all: Switch, Stadia, PS4, etc.
> I'm brand new to the world of projectors. Any general thoughts on projectors in a living room?
> What about noise? My ceilings are about 9 feet up. How annoying is the fan noise?
> No Dolby Vision... how much is this likely to impact my viewing HDR content / games?
> Any other gotchas?
> 
> THANKS IN ADVANCE! I'm both excited and nervous about this potential entry into the world of projectors!



What Luminated67 said is accurate, however an ALR screen cannot compete with a properly treated room.

The first aspect of projection is that ambient light and even wall reflections will affect contrast/black level:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/

Treating the room is highly recommended. Ideally it would be black velvet, but a dark shade of paint will do. The most important area to treat is ~5' around the screen , including screen wall, ceiling and floor (dark carpet).

In regards to ambient light, an ALR screen will help, but only if the image is bright. Where the image is dark that is where the projector is not sending light so it can't be helped. 
Regardless of setup, dark pictures will be affected so viewing with ambient light is only plausible if the image is very bright and you don't care that much about the quality. So sports or daytime TV is fine. This is of course with only a small amount of light, we're not talking about windows open and such. 
A setup where the reflective surfaces are treated, lights are recessed and not in the screen area, light does not hit the screen directly, with a medium bright/bright image, will work, even with a matte white screen.



Screen size is subjective, so the projector should be used on the wall for a while, however 100-110" from 12' is rather small IMO. The general ratio is 10-12" for every foot in distance. So that would result in a screen from 120 to 144". It might sound large but one major mistake first time buyers make is getting a screen that is too small. The advantage of projectors is the ability to do a large screen, for added immersiveness. 

A large screen is suitable for movies, but less for TV, unless it's the kind that looks good on large screens, like GoT.

What some users do is get a 2.35:1 or other scope format. The projector outputs in 16:9 format. So the top and bottom black bards will land outside the screen. The projector has motorized lenses with memory. So one memory position is kept for this format. When it comes time to watch 16:9 TV the image is zoomed out so that the height of the 16:9 projection fits the height of the 2.35:1 screen. This setup is called CIH/Constant Image Height. 




The 6050UB is great, but I suggest you get a JVC NX5/RS1000 instead. It's native 4K. Some users have claimed that even though you can't see the pixels vs. the 6050, the image looks smoother. It has better blacks, an overall better image, and dynamic HDR tone mapping. Most projectors have static tone mapping, including the 6050, which means you have to change the slider manually. The NX5's is automatic.

Only one projector has Dolby Vision, and it's not good. There are ways to get DV, but it may not be worth the effort. Either way HDR is fine without it, you won't be disappointed. 

A B stock NX5 can be had at the cost of of a new 6050. If you can however, skip the NX5 and get an NX7/RS2000.


What are the room dimensions?

LE: 
You might want to install everything yourself, unless time is too valuable. Reason is there might be troubleshooting after installation and it would be useful to know how everything works.


----------



## bluer101

reechings said:


> And you still have good airflow and doesn't get too hot?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I have a 120mm fan pulling hot air into my room air exchange return duct. Visit my build thread below in my signature to see more and how.


----------



## dyslexic

I'm really interested in the Epson 6050, but that power issue has me scared - have they fixed that issue? Anyone here have it?


----------



## DavidinGA

noob00224 said:


> What Luminated67 said is accurate, however an ALR screen cannot compete with a properly treated room.
> 
> The first aspect of projection is that ambient light and even wall reflections will affect contrast/black level:
> https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/
> 
> Treating the room is highly recommended. Ideally it would be black velvet, but a dark shade of paint will do. The most important area to treat is ~5' around the screen , including screen wall, ceiling and floor (dark carpet).
> 
> In regards to ambient light, an ALR screen will help, but only if the image is bright. Where the image is dark that is where the projector is not sending light so it can't be helped.
> Regardless of setup, dark pictures will be affected so viewing with ambient light is only plausible if the image is very bright and you don't care that much about the quality. So sports or daytime TV is fine. This is of course with only a small amount of light, we're not talking about windows open and such.
> A setup where the reflective surfaces are treated, lights are recessed and not in the screen area, light does not hit the screen directly, with a medium bright/bright image, will work, even with a matte white screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Screen size is subjective, so the projector should be used on the wall for a while, however 100-110" from 12' is rather small IMO. The general ratio is 10-12" for every foot in distance. So that would result in a screen from 120 to 144". It might sound large but one major mistake first time buyers make is getting a screen that is too small. The advantage of projectors is the ability to do a large screen, for added immersiveness.
> 
> A large screen is suitable for movies, but less for TV, unless it's the kind that looks good on large screens, like GoT.
> 
> What some users do is get a 2.35:1 or other scope format. The projector outputs in 16:9 format. So the top and bottom black bards will land outside the screen. The projector has motorized lenses with memory. So one memory position is kept for this format. When it comes time to watch 16:9 TV the image is zoomed out so that the height of the 16:9 projection fits the height of the 2.35:1 screen. This setup is called CIH/Constant Image Height.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 6050UB is great, but I suggest you get a JVC NX5/RS1000 instead. It's native 4K. Some users have claimed that even though you can't see the pixels vs. the 6050, the image looks smoother. It has better blacks, an overall better image, and dynamic HDR tone mapping. Most projectors have static tone mapping, including the 6050, which means you have to change the slider manually. The NX5's is automatic.
> 
> Only one projector has Dolby Vision, and it's not good. There are ways to get DV, but it may not be worth the effort. Either way HDR is fine without it, you won't be disappointed.
> 
> A B stock NX5 can be had at the cost of of a new 6050. If you can however, skip the NX5 and get an NX7/RS2000.
> 
> 
> What are the room dimensions?
> 
> LE:
> You might want to install everything yourself, unless time is too valuable. Reason is there might be troubleshooting after installation and it would be useful to know how everything works.


Lots of good info here.

I might add that if you intend to use your setup a lot and go with a JVC projector your gonna pay up the noise when it comes time to replace the lamp vs the dirt cheap lamps for the Epson.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## jehard11

Hi all, I am new to the forum and just got a 6050 set up. Long story short, the picture looks good but honestly I’m not impressed by the sharpness/clarity. I am thinking something has to be wrong. This is my first projector btw.

I have confirmed that I am outputting 4K HDR signal and am using the digital cinema picture mode. I changed the image enhancement from preset 2 to 3 as some have said that will make it a little sharper but no change really.

My room is light controlled and I am using an Xbox one X with a 120 inch silver ticket white screen. My receiver is a Yamaha a2060 which was very expensive so I know it’s not the receiver. My projector lens is about 16 ft away from the screen and I have a fiber optic hdmi cable. I don’t have any keystone but did have to do quite a bit of lens shift to get the picture centered. 

Like I said, the picture is good but I am coming from a 65 inch 2017 Sony 4k HDR LED and that just looked way sharper. I could walk up to my screen and 1 foot away could not see any pixels. The epson I get close and see every single pixel.

Is this just the nature of the faux 4K shifters? I watched the 4K HDR Blu-rays of Godzilla, BVS and Dunkirk and also lion king live action on the Disney app and like I said they all looked really good in action, but I couldn’t stop myself from thinking “this can’t be as sharp as this gets” In every one of them.

All the reviews talk about how the epson faux 4K is so good that there is no major difference between the native 4K projectors which further makes me confused.

Any ideas or help is much appreciated.


----------



## jaredmwright

jehard11 said:


> Hi all, I am new to the forum and just got a 6050 set up. Long story short, the picture looks good but honestly I’m not impressed by the sharpness/clarity. I am thinking something has to be wrong. This is my first projector btw.
> 
> 
> 
> I have confirmed that I am outputting 4K HDR signal and am using the digital cinema picture mode. I changed the image enhancement from preset 2 to 3 as some have said that will make it a little sharper but no change really.
> 
> 
> 
> My room is light controlled and I am using an Xbox one X with a 120 inch silver ticket white screen. My receiver is a Yamaha a2060 which was very expensive so I know it’s not the receiver. My projector lens is about 16 ft away from the screen and I have a fiber optic hdmi cable. I don’t have any keystone but did have to do quite a bit of lens shift to get the picture centered.
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the picture is good but I am coming from a 65 inch 2017 Sony 4k HDR LED and that just looked way sharper. I could walk up to my screen and 1 foot away could not see any pixels. The epson I get close and see every single pixel.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this just the nature of the faux 4K shifters? I watched the 4K HDR Blu-rays of Godzilla, BVS and Dunkirk and also lion king live action on the Disney app and like I said they all looked really good in action, but I couldn’t stop myself from thinking “this can’t be as sharp as this gets” In every one of them.
> 
> 
> 
> All the reviews talk about how the epson faux 4K is so good that there is no major difference between the native 4K projectors which further makes me confused.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas or help is much appreciated.


Make sure you calibrate the colors and they are converged properly, that could contribute. Up close you will be able to see it isn't as sense since it is larger so there will be less pixels/sq inch. 

6050ub here and absolutely as sharp as any other 4K I have.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## muad'dib

jehard11 said:


> Hi all, I am new to the forum and just got a 6050 set up. Long story short, the picture looks good but honestly I’m not impressed by the sharpness/clarity. I am thinking something has to be wrong. This is my first projector btw.
> 
> 
> 
> I have confirmed that I am outputting 4K HDR signal and am using the digital cinema picture mode. I changed the image enhancement from preset 2 to 3 as some have said that will make it a little sharper but no change really.
> 
> 
> 
> My room is light controlled and I am using an Xbox one X with a 120 inch silver ticket white screen. My receiver is a Yamaha a2060 which was very expensive so I know it’s not the receiver. My projector lens is about 16 ft away from the screen and I have a fiber optic hdmi cable. I don’t have any keystone but did have to do quite a bit of lens shift to get the picture centered.
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the picture is good but I am coming from a 65 inch 2017 Sony 4k HDR LED and that just looked way sharper. I could walk up to my screen and 1 foot away could not see any pixels. The epson I get close and see every single pixel.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this just the nature of the faux 4K shifters? I watched the 4K HDR Blu-rays of Godzilla, BVS and Dunkirk and also lion king live action on the Disney app and like I said they all looked really good in action, but I couldn’t stop myself from thinking “this can’t be as sharp as this gets” In every one of them.
> 
> 
> 
> All the reviews talk about how the epson faux 4K is so good that there is no major difference between the native 4K projectors which further makes me confused.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas or help is much appreciated.


For sharpness.. I like the following..

1 - I set sharpness to 15
2 - I set the enhanced sharpness (preset to 4)
3 - once you choose preset 4, turn off all DNR NR...
4- Don't use the 4k enhanced... These are 1080p panels.. And most sources are 1080p..The image will be way sharper in 1080p turning off fake 4k..
You can really see this with Xbox one x and ps4 pro games... Take a 1080p game or even 4k game... Have Epson use its 4k, the image will soften up... Yes you see less pixels, but I like razer sharp detail...

4k movies look not bad, in fake 4 k mode, but look sharper if you downsample the 4k movie to 1080p...

Unfortunately unlike 4k flat screen tv's, Epson 4k is not even full 4k.. Like half of that... Hence why soft image...

Just my 2 cents...

The reason I have the Epson, is that blacks, and colours and detail (1080p mode) are stunning... Looks like a flat panel on wall.. Optics in Epson are amazing...

Hope this helps and at least in my system, these settings work best... 

I like to use Steam from computer also and do windows work.. Using fake 4k mode makes text soft... Turning off 4k mode and sending 1080p is way sharper.. Like putting projector from out of focus to in focus... 

I'm doing a 125" screen from 11 feet away... 



Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

jehard11 said:


> Hi all, I am new to the forum and just got a 6050 set up. Long story short, the picture looks good but honestly I’m not impressed by the sharpness/clarity. I am thinking something has to be wrong. This is my first projector btw.
> 
> I have confirmed that I am outputting 4K HDR signal and am using the digital cinema picture mode. I changed the image enhancement from preset 2 to 3 as some have said that will make it a little sharper but no change really.
> 
> My room is light controlled and I am using an Xbox one X with a 120 inch silver ticket white screen. My receiver is a Yamaha a2060 which was very expensive so I know it’s not the receiver. My projector lens is about 16 ft away from the screen and I have a fiber optic hdmi cable. I don’t have any keystone but did have to do quite a bit of lens shift to get the picture centered.
> 
> Like I said, the picture is good but I am coming from a 65 inch 2017 Sony 4k HDR LED and that just looked way sharper. I could walk up to my screen and 1 foot away could not see any pixels. The epson I get close and see every single pixel.
> 
> Is this just the nature of the faux 4K shifters? I watched the 4K HDR Blu-rays of Godzilla, BVS and Dunkirk and also lion king live action on the Disney app and like I said they all looked really good in action, but I couldn’t stop myself from thinking “this can’t be as sharp as this gets” In every one of them.
> 
> All the reviews talk about how the epson faux 4K is so good that there is no major difference between the native 4K projectors which further makes me confused.
> 
> Any ideas or help is much appreciated.


How far away is the seating position?

Try a real 4K source:
https://4kmedia.org/real-or-fake-4k/

LE: Dunkirk and BVS should be real 4K.


----------



## muad'dib

noob00224 said:


> How far away is the seating position?
> 
> Try a real 4K source:
> https://4kmedia.org/real-or-fake-4k/
> 
> LE: Dunkirk and BVS should be real 4K.


I agree also.. Some movies look so unsharp even though they say 4k...Oblivion comes to mind... The 1080p version is razer sharp.. The UHD version is very soft. 

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jehard11 said:


> Hi all, I am new to the forum and just got a 6050 set up. Long story short, the picture looks good but honestly I’m not impressed by the sharpness/clarity. I am thinking something has to be wrong. This is my first projector btw.
> 
> 
> 
> I have confirmed that I am outputting 4K HDR signal and am using the digital cinema picture mode. I changed the image enhancement from preset 2 to 3 as some have said that will make it a little sharper but no change really.
> 
> 
> 
> My room is light controlled and I am using an Xbox one X with a 120 inch silver ticket white screen. My receiver is a Yamaha a2060 which was very expensive so I know it’s not the receiver. My projector lens is about 16 ft away from the screen and I have a fiber optic hdmi cable. I don’t have any keystone but did have to do quite a bit of lens shift to get the picture centered.
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, the picture is good but I am coming from a 65 inch 2017 Sony 4k HDR LED and that just looked way sharper. I could walk up to my screen and 1 foot away could not see any pixels. The epson I get close and see every single pixel.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this just the nature of the faux 4K shifters? I watched the 4K HDR Blu-rays of Godzilla, BVS and Dunkirk and also lion king live action on the Disney app and like I said they all looked really good in action, but I couldn’t stop myself from thinking “this can’t be as sharp as this gets” In every one of them.
> 
> 
> 
> All the reviews talk about how the epson faux 4K is so good that there is no major difference between the native 4K projectors which further makes me confused.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas or help is much appreciated.


Are you streaming 4K content or playing a 4K disc? What specific content? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sorny

Recently got a 5050 and 120" screen set up in my dedicated room. Still a work in progress, but I've got some thoughts at the end of my long-winded ramblings below...

Using 30' Monoprice premium certified HDMI without issue from receiver to projector, and 20' & 25' cables from Xbox One X and Sony x700 4k bluray to receiver, and 15' Monoprice premium certified between AppleTV4k to receiver. So in summary, up to 30', the premium certified Monoprice cables work fine. Got all the checkboxes on this and that, no issues.

My room is a very good chunk of one half the basement, 12' wide, 28' long, and 7' ceiling; not great, but manageable. What is not manageable is very light carpet and white walls/ceiling. Since it's a dedicated room, I decided to start project blackout. 30 yards of triple black velvet, and a couple cheap black rugs from Lowes made a world of difference. It's all still a very early work in progress, but I thought it would be nice to share some pics of what you give up when you've got close (white) side walls, and very close (white) ceiling, and light carpet close to the screen, vs what you get when you start blacking things out... I'm going to order up the roughly 60 more yards I need to finish, and be able to wrap speakers, and whatnot with the excess.

Due to a "wonderful" gas fireplace, I can't do a painted wall, so I did the next best thing, I hung a 120" 16x9 screen in front of the bump-in for the fireplace. Now, that leaves me precious little room between the ceiling and screen, and screen to floor. Gotta love houses built in the 1950's... But, all that space behind the screen works great for the gear and front pair of subs and amps. I was able to wrap the velvet in such a way that I can still get behind the screen, there's ample space for air circulation and whatnot. I got a cheap Elite Sable 120" screen, and I'm giving SERIOUS consideration to building a false wall and going DIY spandex scope screen from wall to wall, but for now, the Elite 120" is working pretty well.

Hopefully the pics go up in the right order, but the first pic is a grab from Rogue One, with just the screen hung and projector mounted on the ceiling. I have 13' from screen to my seating, and the projector lens is just about 17.5' from the screen. Light spill is atrocious from everywhere. Ignore the old tv stand and whatnot, that's not the point of concern.

The 2nd-7th pics are just some pics showing the 30 yards of black hole on a roll, to velvet on walls progress. Staple gun. It ain't pretty with lights on when you get up close and personal, but you see pretty much nothing beyond 2' from the walls with all lights on, and you see nothing at all with lights out.

Pic 8 is after 88" or so of velvet on walls and ceiling; it's pretty close to the first pic for comparison. 

Pic 9 is after getting the velvet below the screen and black rugs down; it's not the exact same shot as before, but still shows the black level improvement. Also have velvet drape over the entry door.

Now, yes, I'm going to get black paint for the HVAC duct, I'm also going to cut out covers for the can lights (don't usually use them anyway) for the front 2. Yes, I know the pics show it as a mess, but those were all work-in-progress pics to show improvements.

No, the projector isn't calibrated (not enough hours on it yet). Yes, this is my first FP system. The jump from 70" to 120" is pretty significant. I still need to figure out what I need to look at for HDR; seems I have to set the slider down quite a bit to get what looks good to me; usually between 3 & 5 depending on movie/show. High power, filter engaged for HDR with no iris, eco and about -6 iris for SDR. Threw in Alaric's settings as a start as I'm breaking-in the lamp. I'm planning to get it calibrated once I get about 200hrs on it, which at this rate, is going to be a few months. Still fighting with my harmony and powering down the projector; it works from blu-ray activity, but not any of the activities I programmed for HBO/Prime video/iTunes movies/Netflix activities I set up for my AppleTV. Pretty sure I just have to change it to not require the double press to get it working 100%.

So, in summary, I can say that in a room with serious room compromises going in, black velvet is the cure for black level blues. The OOB picture is pretty darn good! It is a light cannon. Mine is quiet enough even on high and being only 3' over my head and about 4' behind me. It's near silent on medium and eco relative to the ambient noise floor in the room.

I replaced a 2016 vintage Vizio D series 4k 70" with the Epson 5050UB and Elite 120" setup, so I'm completely new to HDR and how it should look. I will say that the size jump from 70 to 120 inches is, frankly, incredible. Gaming is pretty wild on the projection setup as well, and I think the projector has lower input lag than my TV did! I'm also QUITE surprised the cheapish epson universal mount I got for the projector doesn't complain when my 4 subs start doing their thing. I expected "fuzzy" when bass goes crazy, since I'm 120dB capable at 14Hz and the back wall is flexing and the HT marketplace seats are giving me a back massage, but the screen and projector aren't showing any distress or movement.

I've read the entire thread, and it's a doozy, so wanted to thank everyone for letting a fool like me learn from your hard knocks, so I don't have to repeat the mistakes. At some point I may decide to put all my gear in the back utility room behind the dedicated room, but for now, receiver, Appletv4k, and amps behind screen, bluray and xbox on shelf unit directly right of right-most seat works well. I guess the ideal thing would be projector in utility room as well, but I'm concerned that with a 25' throw, I'd lose too much light; the 14.5' throw I'm running now seems to have me quite bright enough (aka, start to squint on some very bright stuff). I'm sure some hours on the lamp and a proper calibration will fix it right up though.


----------



## Luminated67

jehard11 said:


> Hi all, I am new to the forum and just got a 6050 set up. Long story short, the picture looks good but honestly I’m not impressed by the sharpness/clarity. I am thinking something has to be wrong. This is my first projector btw.
> 
> I have confirmed that I am outputting 4K HDR signal and am using the digital cinema picture mode. I changed the image enhancement from preset 2 to 3 as some have said that will make it a little sharper but no change really.
> 
> My room is light controlled and I am using an Xbox one X with a 120 inch silver ticket white screen. My receiver is a Yamaha a2060 which was very expensive so I know it’s not the receiver. My projector lens is about 16 ft away from the screen and I have a fiber optic hdmi cable. I don’t have any keystone but did have to do quite a bit of lens shift to get the picture centered.
> 
> Like I said, the picture is good but I am coming from a 65 inch 2017 Sony 4k HDR LED and that just looked way sharper. I could walk up to my screen and 1 foot away could not see any pixels. The epson I get close and see every single pixel.
> 
> Is this just the nature of the faux 4K shifters? I watched the 4K HDR Blu-rays of Godzilla, BVS and Dunkirk and also lion king live action on the Disney app and like I said they all looked really good in action, but I couldn’t stop myself from thinking “this can’t be as sharp as this gets” In every one of them.
> 
> All the reviews talk about how the epson faux 4K is so good that there is no major difference between the native 4K projectors which further makes me confused.
> 
> Any ideas or help is much appreciated.


There’s a couple of household duties to perform which you might or might not have done but will go over them anyway and always best to leave to projector running for about 20-30 mins before doing so it’s warmed up properly.

1: Have you done the focus adjustment? This really needs to be done with e-shift turned off and up close and personal with the screen, move it both directions so you know the exact point it’s at its sharpest.

2: Panel alignment, you can do each section or full panel... in my opinion do full panel unless you really know what you are doing.

Panel alignment process explained

If you are sat from a 65” screen at 12 ft away and then sit the same distance from a 120” screen you will get the perception that you have lost sharpness, I suggest moving to about 4.5-5ft from you TV to get the same perspective.


----------



## Luminated67

Sorny said:


> Recently got a 5050 and 120" screen set up in my dedicated room. Still a work in progress, but I've got some thoughts at the end of my long-winded ramblings below...
> 
> Using 30' Monoprice premium certified HDMI without issue from receiver to projector, and 20' & 25' cables from Xbox One X and Sony x700 4k bluray to receiver, and 15' Monoprice premium certified between AppleTV4k to receiver. So in summary, up to 30', the premium certified Monoprice cables work fine. Got all the checkboxes on this and that, no issues.
> 
> My room is a very good chunk of one half the basement, 12' wide, 28' long, and 7' ceiling; not great, but manageable. What is not manageable is very light carpet and white walls/ceiling. Since it's a dedicated room, I decided to start project blackout. 30 yards of triple black velvet, and a couple cheap black rugs from Lowes made a world of difference. It's all still a very early work in progress, but I thought it would be nice to share some pics of what you give up when you've got close (white) side walls, and very close (white) ceiling, and light carpet close to the screen, vs what you get when you start blacking things out... I'm going to order up the roughly 60 more yards I need to finish, and be able to wrap speakers, and whatnot with the excess.
> 
> Due to a "wonderful" gas fireplace, I can't do a painted wall, so I did the next best thing, I hung a 120" 16x9 screen in front of the bump-in for the fireplace. Now, that leaves me precious little room between the ceiling and screen, and screen to floor. Gotta love houses built in the 1950's... But, all that space behind the screen works great for the gear and front pair of subs and amps. I was able to wrap the velvet in such a way that I can still get behind the screen, there's ample space for air circulation and whatnot. I got a cheap Elite Sable 120" screen, and I'm giving SERIOUS consideration to building a false wall and going DIY spandex scope screen from wall to wall, but for now, the Elite 120" is working pretty well.
> 
> Hopefully the pics go up in the right order, but the first pic is a grab from Rogue One, with just the screen hung and projector mounted on the ceiling. I have 13' from screen to my seating, and the projector lens is just about 17.5' from the screen. Light spill is atrocious from everywhere. Ignore the old tv stand and whatnot, that's not the point of concern.
> 
> The 2nd-7th pics are just some pics showing the 30 yards of black hole on a roll, to velvet on walls progress. Staple gun. It ain't pretty with lights on when you get up close and personal, but you see pretty much nothing beyond 2' from the walls with all lights on, and you see nothing at all with lights out.
> 
> Pic 8 is after 88" or so of velvet on walls and ceiling; it's pretty close to the first pic for comparison.
> 
> Pic 9 is after getting the velvet below the screen and black rugs down; it's not the exact same shot as before, but still shows the black level improvement. Also have velvet drape over the entry door.
> 
> Now, yes, I'm going to get black paint for the HVAC duct, I'm also going to cut out covers for the can lights (don't usually use them anyway) for the front 2. Yes, I know the pics show it as a mess, but those were all work-in-progress pics to show improvements.
> 
> No, the projector isn't calibrated (not enough hours on it yet). Yes, this is my first FP system. The jump from 70" to 120" is pretty significant. I still need to figure out what I need to look at for HDR; seems I have to set the slider down quite a bit to get what looks good to me; usually between 3 & 5 depending on movie/show. High power, filter engaged for HDR with no iris, eco and about -6 iris for SDR. Threw in Alaric's settings as a start as I'm breaking-in the lamp. I'm planning to get it calibrated once I get about 200hrs on it, which at this rate, is going to be a few months. Still fighting with my harmony and powering down the projector; it works from blu-ray activity, but not any of the activities I programmed for HBO/Prime video/iTunes movies/Netflix activities I set up for my AppleTV. Pretty sure I just have to change it to not require the double press to get it working 100%.
> 
> So, in summary, I can say that in a room with serious room compromises going in, black velvet is the cure for black level blues. The OOB picture is pretty darn good! It is a light cannon. Mine is quiet enough even on high and being only 3' over my head and about 4' behind me. It's near silent on medium and eco relative to the ambient noise floor in the room.
> 
> I replaced a 2016 vintage Vizio D series 4k 70" with the Epson 5050UB and Elite 120" setup, so I'm completely new to HDR and how it should look. I will say that the size jump from 70 to 120 inches is, frankly, incredible. Gaming is pretty wild on the projection setup as well, and I think the projector has lower input lag than my TV did! I'm also QUITE surprised the cheapish epson universal mount I got for the projector doesn't complain when my 4 subs start doing their thing. I expected "fuzzy" when bass goes crazy, since I'm 120dB capable at 14Hz and the back wall is flexing and the HT marketplace seats are giving me a back massage, but the screen and projector aren't showing any distress or movement.
> 
> I've read the entire thread, and it's a doozy, so wanted to thank everyone for letting a fool like me learn from your hard knocks, so I don't have to repeat the mistakes. At some point I may decide to put all my gear in the back utility room behind the dedicated room, but for now, receiver, Appletv4k, and amps behind screen, bluray and xbox on shelf unit directly right of right-most seat works well. I guess the ideal thing would be projector in utility room as well, but I'm concerned that with a 25' throw, I'd lose too much light; the 14.5' throw I'm running now seems to have me quite bright enough (aka, start to squint on some very bright stuff). I'm sure some hours on the lamp and a proper calibration will fix it right up though.


Looking great my friend, real nice job. I makes my laugh when newbies talk about fully light control thinking that’s the ability to turn all the lights off and think because they can’t see in the dark that’s the same thing as what we call fully light controlled. LOL

Nice example of showing how something as simple as adding a rug changes the black level even after you had done everything else, I did the same thing and noticed a similar improvement.

It’s a labour if love this hobby and all the hard effort yields results, shame you hadn’t seen my thread over on AVForums about self adhesive velour flock, basically stick it on like wallpaper and has roughly the same light absorbing properties as the triple black but a lot less work involved in mounting it. The third image I took for a fellow member how was having to add ducting along the ceiling and was worried would it still be noticeable so this image has actually be over brightened to show the ducting I had to use. 

Since those photos I added a panel of the flock to cover the window and covered the radiator.

Took the last image from Dunkirk that I watched last night.

Movie collection from the Epson

P.S. Currently building up my Star Wars collection in 4K, man are the early stuff expensive in 4K.


----------



## jehard11

Thanks all, I did the lens focus with the e shift turned off and then made some very minor adjustments on the panel alignment. 

I think it helped for sure but who knows could be the placebo effect. Overall the movies still look excellent and I plan on keeping this projector because it’s so solid all around.

The text on the Xbox home page still leaves some sharpness to be desired, even at distances of 10-12 ft on 120 inch screen. I think it’s just the nature of the faux 4K and a difference that big reviewer on YouTube noted as well when doing the direct comparison to the benq 5550.


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## jehard11

Also my next question - I am using the digital cinema picture setting and only change I made was the image enhancement preset and also turned the power consumption from defaulted medium to high.

The picture is a little dim in my completely light controlled room but I think it’s maybe because I am used to LED? Granted I never used torch mode on LEDs I always used the movie mode. Any recommendations on improving the brightness a bit without actually adjusting brightness and negatively impacting rest of picture?

I know all projectors and environments are a little different but any standard calibration settings out there that people have found beneficial?


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## skylarlove1999

jehard11 said:


> Thanks all, I did the lens focus with the e shift turned off and then made some very minor adjustments on the panel alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> I think it helped for sure but who knows could be the placebo effect. Overall the movies still look excellent and I plan on keeping this projector because it’s so solid all around.
> 
> 
> 
> The text on the Xbox home page still leaves some sharpness to be desired, even at distances of 10-12 ft on 120 inch screen. I think it’s just the nature of the faux 4K and a difference that big reviewer on YouTube noted as well when doing the direct comparison to the benq 5550.



When XBOX designed the user interface they didn't test it on a 120 inch screen. If you want the sharpest picture with the best HDR buy a 32 inch 4k monitor. If any projector manufacturers were being honest with you they didn't design a projector for gaming or looking at the user interface. The performance of the projector is optimized for watching movies, first and foremost.

Expecting an essentially reflective vinyl surface 120 inches in size to be identical in performance to a hard glass 65 inch surface isn't based in logic. 

You are comparing two different technologies. It would be like complaining that the 65 inch image isn't as immersive as the 120 inch screen. If I understand you correctly you haven't even used a true 4K movie on disc for testing purposes as of yet. That is like complaining about a Ferrari being slow when you haven't yet even taken it out of third gear. You need to spend less time complaining and more time fine tuning and testing IMHO before your opinion would have value to this thread. 

The BenQ 5550 is also a pixel shifter so saying the Epson is less sharp because it is also a pixel shifter holds no water . The BenQ is true 4k meaning that it does put 8.3 million pixels on screen. 

At the difference you are sitting from your screen size you are not able to discern the resolution difference. A native 4K projector not using any pixel shifting to display all 8.3 million pixels certainly should have a more stable image and appear sharper. The lens is also a variable that greatly influences sharpness. Even with the same product line the lens quality will vary. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## muad'dib

jehard11 said:


> Thanks all, I did the lens focus with the e shift turned off and then made some very minor adjustments on the panel alignment.
> 
> 
> 
> I think it helped for sure but who knows could be the placebo effect. Overall the movies still look excellent and I plan on keeping this projector because it’s so solid all around.
> 
> 
> 
> The text on the Xbox home page still leaves some sharpness to be desired, even at distances of 10-12 ft on 120 inch screen. I think it’s just the nature of the faux 4K and a difference that big reviewer on YouTube noted as well when doing the direct comparison to the benq 5550.


Like I stated earlier, set Xbox to 1080p output.. and Now your menus etc will be much sharper..
The Xbox has a cool feature.. If you set it to 1080p it will play all native 1080p games as is.. and only when a game is true 4k, the Xbox will then send a 4k output even though you had xbox set to 1080p..

But since I like the ultimate sharpness, I got a hdfury device and told it to lie to all sources in my chain. It tells them my projector is only 1080p, so any sources that are 4k,will downsample to 1080p..And I get a much sharper image...


Its so sharp in 1080p, that all my friends that have 4k panels at home, think I'm actually displaying video on projector in 4k..



Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

jehard11 said:


> Also my next question - I am using the digital cinema picture setting and only change I made was the image enhancement preset and also turned the power consumption from defaulted medium to high.
> 
> The picture is a little dim in my completely light controlled room but I think it’s maybe because I am used to LED? Granted I never used torch mode on LEDs I always used the movie mode. Any recommendations on improving the brightness a bit without actually adjusting brightness and negatively impacting rest of picture?
> 
> I know all projectors and environments are a little different but any standard calibration settings out there that people have found beneficial?


OK firstly you should only be using Cinema or Digital Cinema modes when your projector is being feed a 4K HDR signal, otherwise Natural is the most accurate out of the box setting for 1080P etc. Alas room conditions have an enormous affect on your picture quality, especially shadow detail.

Another thing, most TV settings are overtly bright with both brightness and contrast set far to high in their default settings. I’m willing to bet if you got it calibrated professional you would think it looked dull.


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## jehard11

All my tests have been 4K blu rays. I said as much in my original post so your Ferrari scenario is useless. Not complaining, just trying to find the best settings so I can set and forget. Tfoh with your keyboard warrior response


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## Sekosche

Luminated67 said:


> Looking great my friend, real nice job. I makes my laugh when newbies talk about fully light control thinking that’s the ability to turn all the lights off and think because they can’t see in the dark that’s the same thing as what we call fully light controlled. LOL


Haha, that’s basically what I thought when I bought my first PJ just a few years ago. I’m sure some of y’all have been in the home theater hobby much longer, but finally getting to experience a dedicated and blacked out room is truly a thing of beauty, especially with the 5050UB and the added immersion it provides. It’s incredible just how much reducing reflections in room improves contrast and the black levels.

I must say the optics on my 5050 are amazing, because the image is razor sharp edge to edge, considerably better than I could get with my last two PJ’s across the entire screen, and it’s very apparent when playing video games. I’m currently watching my son play Spider-Man on the PS4 Pro and this game looks incredible. I played it some at the last house on the Epson 3700 and it looked pretty good in 1080P, but this current setup, the resolution bump, and the added HDR truly elevates the graphics to another level.

My triple black velvet is supposed to arrive today, so that’s cool. I’m still not certain how I want to ceiling mount it, but I’ve read a few of those threads on AVS. Will at least do the walls and floor this weekend; nothing too extreme but at least 3-4’ in each direction should be more than adequate, but I only bought 10 yards initially to see if I like the quality.


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## skylarlove1999

jehard11 said:


> All my tests have been 4K blu rays. I said as much in my original post so your Ferrari scenario is useless. Not complaining, just trying to find the best settings so I can set and forget. Tfoh with your keyboard warrior response


LOL. Maybe try a real UHD player rather than your XBOX. Very classy post. You certainly are ingratiating yourself to your fellow owners and AVS Forum members. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

Sekosche said:


> Haha, that’s basically what I thought when I bought my first PJ just a few years ago. I’m sure some of y’all have been in the home theater hobby much longer, but finally getting to experience a dedicated and blacked out room is truly a thing of beauty, especially with the 5050UB and the added immersion it provides. It’s incredible just how much reducing reflections in room improves contrast and the black levels.
> 
> I must say the optics on my 5050 are amazing, because the image is razor sharp edge to edge, considerably better than I could get with my last two PJ’s across the entire screen, and it’s very apparent when playing video games. I’m currently watching my son play Spider-Man on the PS4 Pro and this game looks incredible. I played it some at the last house on the Epson 3700 and it looked pretty good in 1080P, but this current setup, the resolution bump, and the added HDR truly elevates the graphics to another level.
> 
> My triple black velvet is supposed to arrive today, so that’s cool. I’m still not certain how I want to ceiling mount it, but I’ve read a few of those threads on AVS. Will at least do the walls and floor this weekend; nothing too extreme but at least 3-4’ in each direction should be more than adequate, but I only bought 10 yards initially to see if I like the quality.


I found that the first 6ft had the most affect of both blacks and contrast but I extended mine back to 10ft which was just behind my seats as this removed the slight reflection from the dark grey walls and locks your concentration firmly on the screen. 

If you are debating how to mount it then maybe the stuff I used might just be the ticket. Here’s the link to my build and to the stuff I used, good read and some useful info in there hopefully.

Modest Home Cinema Room

Self Adhesive Velvet Flock

I’m sure someone in the US will be selling it or something very similar.


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## Luminated67

jehard11 said:


> All my tests have been 4K blu rays. I said as much in my original post so your Ferrari scenario is useless. Not complaining, just trying to find the best settings so I can set and forget. Tfoh with your keyboard warrior response


I’ll ignore the tale end of your reply to @skylarlove1999 and try and help you if I can. 

OK you are using 4K discs, so you are correct you really want to be using cinema or digital cinema as these two mode use the built in filter and give you the wide colour gamut, the side effect of this is it cuts the light output but almost 50%. I’m not going to comment on the pluses and minuses of the Xbox as a Bluray player because I don’t own one or have the experience to give any advice but I do know that the Panasonic UB420 is absolutely brilliant and with the option to switch it to SDR 2020 I found both blacks and shadow detail to be better so that might be an option. In the meantime have you fiddled with the HDR slider in the menu whilst watching a movie, this adjusts the image and you might find a setting that looks right to you in there, I found between number 4 and 6 worked best for me.

What’s the distance from the projector lens to the screen?

Out of curiosity does these images look dull or lacking in anyway, they are all 4K through my Panasonic UB420 on Cinema mode.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/879c9i8cntvozil/AABseoAdtox2IW5Q_GwFVkOha?dl=0

The point I am trying to make is that the room affects the image your screen produces and unless you can control this you then need to do a bit of research of the appropriate screen, get that right and truth me you will be blown away by what you see.


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## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I’ll ignore the tale end of your reply to @skylarlove1999 and try and help you if I can.
> 
> 
> 
> OK you are using 4K discs, so you are correct you really want to be using cinema or digital cinema as these two mode use the built in filter and give you the wide colour gamut, the side effect of this is it cuts the light output but almost 50%. I’m not going to comment on the pluses and minuses of the Xbox as a Bluray player because I don’t own one or have the experience to give any advice but I do know that the Panasonic UB420 is absolutely brilliant and with the option to switch it to SDR 2020 I found both blacks and shadow detail to be better so that might be an option. In the meantime have you fiddled with the HDR slider in the menu whilst watching a movie, this adjusts the image and you might find a setting that looks right to you in there, I found between number 4 and 6 worked best for me.
> 
> 
> 
> What’s the distance from the projector lens to the screen?[/quote @Luminated67 you sir are a gentleman and a scholar for trying to help this individual. He doesn't know how fortunate he is that you are still willing to help.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> you sir are a gentleman and a scholar for trying to help this individual. He doesn't know how fortunate he is that you are still willing to help.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Whilst I disagree with his comments towards yourself I don’t want anyone to be dissatisfied with their purchase and would prefer to win him over. You and I both know just how good these projectors can be and are frankly a bargain for the asking price but you need to get a combination of things right for them to truly shine, he just hasn’t reached that point yet and a bit of guidance will get him there hopefully.


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## Sorny

A quick follow-up to my Harmony power-off gripe with the 5050UB... 

Changing standby confirmation to N fixed the power-down issue. I played around with delays with no consistent luck, then said to hell with it and just disabled standby on the projector and now it powers off like it should.


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## biglen

muad'dib said:


> Like I stated earlier, set Xbox to 1080p output.. and Now your menus etc will be much sharper..
> The Xbox has a cool feature.. If you set it to 1080p it will play all native 1080p games as is.. and only when a game is true 4k, the Xbox will then send a 4k output even though you had xbox set to 1080p..
> 
> But since I like the ultimate sharpness, I got a hdfury device and told it to lie to all sources in my chain. It tells them my projector is only 1080p, so any sources that are 4k,will downsample to 1080p..And I get a much sharper image...
> 
> 
> Its so sharp in 1080p, that all my friends that have 4k panels at home, think I'm actually displaying video on projector in 4k..
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


Can you go into a little more detail about that HDFury device? Are you saying my 5050 will look even better when using it?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## reechings

Sekosche said:


> Haha, that’s basically what I thought when I bought my first PJ just a few years ago. I’m sure some of y’all have been in the home theater hobby much longer, but finally getting to experience a dedicated and blacked out room is truly a thing of beauty, especially with the 5050UB and the added immersion it provides. It’s incredible just how much reducing reflections in room improves contrast and the black levels.
> 
> I must say the optics on my 5050 are amazing, because the image is razor sharp edge to edge, considerably better than I could get with my last two PJ’s across the entire screen, and it’s very apparent when playing video games. I’m currently watching my son play Spider-Man on the PS4 Pro and this game looks incredible. I played it some at the last house on the Epson 3700 and it looked pretty good in 1080P, but this current setup, the resolution bump, and the added HDR truly elevates the graphics to another level.
> 
> My triple black velvet is supposed to arrive today, so that’s cool. I’m still not certain how I want to ceiling mount it, but I’ve read a few of those threads on AVS. Will at least do the walls and floor this weekend; nothing too extreme but at least 3-4’ in each direction should be more than adequate, but I only bought 10 yards initially to see if I like the quality.


Please keep us updated as your old projector is almost identical to my current one. My media room is at the exact point right now with the lockdown and everything that I can either pay to get it painted or put the money towards triple black velvet and black it out.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


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## muad'dib

The hdfury itself does not make the image better. 

It fools my stereo's output to make it think I have projector that is only 1080p..So when devices like Xbox one or Ps4 pro, see the projector, they think it can only do HDR 1080p..
Sonwhen a game that is 4k is played, it supersamples (takes the 4k render and scales it to 1080p..Image is damn sharp then..).

If I did not fool the devices, it would output 4k to projector.. Then I would have a soft image again..

I force steam and windows apps to 1080p also, to use native panel size on Epson.

Text was to fuzzy for non sharp when using 4k rez or even taking 1080p and making it fake 4k with Epson.

I find it's a gimmick.. Until REAL 4K panels are at a price we can all afford. 

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk


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## covsound1

Topic 1 Double dipping sdr/bt2020 hdr with works wonders for a small handful of movies,but for most overdone at extreme apl. Double helping with the panny 420 and a little help with the 5050 best way to go.(just looks natural and not forced). 
Topic 2 1080p wow i feel really sloww! as i owned a 5040 and never realized 4k on and off,image enhancement 1 to 5 are separate controls.As mentioned by maub dib but with out the hdfury just a sony x800 blue ray player my collection of blue rays have a new life. Also the sony will play 4k hdr at 1080p bt2020 full 12bit 444! And if you like that soap opera effect you can turn that on too. i believe when the x800 converts to 1080p it tone maps as a bonus.  I didnt mention i like the sony x800 better at 1080p than the panny 420 up conversion.I even find the 5050 does a better job.Now at 4k the panny 420 hands down.


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## MississippiMan

Sekosche said:


> My triple black velvet is supposed to arrive today, so that’s cool. I’m still not certain how I want to ceiling mount it, but I’ve read a few of those threads on AVS. Will at least do the walls and floor this weekend; nothing too extreme but at least 3-4’ in each direction should be more than adequate, but I only bought 10 yards initially to see if I like the quality.



Using Thumb Tacks that you have pre-painted with a eggshell Black Paint works great. (...a Flat Black paint will stand out like dull black buttons against the superior Blackness of the BTV)


Placing one at every 3' square corner is usually more than sufficient, and as someone who has used them many times to hang Plastic Sheeting, when removed the tiny holes are virtually invisible.


Also, unless the side walls crowd your screen's edges to withing a couple feet, it's the Ceiling that can need the the treatment far more. Also, both the Ceiling and Side Walls stop being of as much of a concern out past 6'. Beyond that point, the use of a dark Matte Color such as Grey or even deeply saturated Red or Blue can suppress ambient light reflections enough to make a difference.'


Can having completely blacked out room surfaces be most effective? Certainly....but similar mind think has been what keeps using Flat Black paint up at the front of people's consideration...despite it being so terribly ugly of a solution...when the lights go up. Simple light suppressive colors overall, and effective "ultra Black" spot area treatments for worst case situations is all that is needed


----------



## MississippiMan

reechings said:


> Please keep us updated as your old projector is almost identical to my current one. My media room is at the exact point right now with the lockdown and everything that I can either pay to get it painted or put the money towards triple black velvet and black it out.



After reading what I just posted, I hope you can consider using the Grey example below and therein minimize the extent of actual Black Velvet use to being that of a Black Shadow Box-like effect that reaches out 6'. Also bear in mind that except for cosmetic reasons, adding Black Velvet to the Screen Wall is ineffectual as the light coming from the Screen cannot bend back on itself to strike the screen wall....the only light the screen wall can receive is from direct or reflected light coming from the front or all of the sides, and if you have darker room surfaces everywhere, and Black Velvet out 6' from the Screen wall on every adjoining surface...that simply will not be the case.
















Please note that the paint used was PPG Diamond, a paint high in acrylic content. In truth, using any Primer/Paint combo amounts to being a "interior Enamel" and when used, it will present none of the ugly, dry dusty look of most Flat Latex paints.


----------



## aoaaron

hi, has nayone here gone from HW40/45/55/65 ES to a 5050UB and has some photos for comparison between the two?


----------



## Luminated67

aoaaron said:


> hi, has nayone here gone from HW40/45/55/65 ES to a 5050UB and has some photos for comparison between the two?


I switched from the Sony HW45 to the TW9400 (euro version), on 1080p contain the difference is minimal with the Epson having a bit better black and shadow detail compared to the Sony. It’s not till you feed it 4K HDR that the Epson moves up a gear and to another level in my opinion.


----------



## fakerus

aoaaron said:


> hi, has nayone here gone from HW40/45/55/65 ES to a 5050UB and has some photos for comparison between the two?



I came from the hw40, the 4K content looks really good, the blacks are much better, but the fan noise compared to the Sony is really annoying. You get use to it after a while.


----------



## asolor78

Good evening fine peeps... So just scored a panny 820, and was just trying to get an upper hands on what to expect upon connecting to this 5050.... So what should video out be? Tone mapping once hooked on is there going to tinkering required for each movie? Any aid would be gracious


----------



## Sekosche

MississippiMan said:


> Using Thumb Tacks that you have pre-painted with a eggshell Black Paint works great. (...a Flat Black paint will stand out like dull black buttons against the superior Blackness of the BTV)
> 
> 
> Placing one at every 3' square corner is usually more than sufficient, and as someone who has used them many times to hang Plastic Sheeting, when removed the tiny holes are virtually invisible.
> 
> 
> Also, unless the side walls crowd your screen's edges to withing a couple feet, it's the Ceiling that can need the the treatment far more. Also, both the Ceiling and Side Walls stop being of as much of a concern out past 6'. Beyond that point, the use of a dark Matte Color such as Grey or even deeply saturated Red or Blue can suppress ambient light reflections enough to make a difference.'
> 
> 
> Can having completely blacked out room surfaces be most effective? Certainly....but similar mind think has been what keeps using Flat Black paint up at the front of people's consideration...despite it being so terribly ugly of a solution...when the lights go up. Simple light suppressive colors overall, and effective "ultra Black" spot area treatments for worst case situations is all that is needed



Thanks for the tips! I’ll spray paint some tack heads and keep it simple. The velvet had a big shipping delay from Los Angeles and is rescheduled for delivery Tuesday, but I got gaffers tape up along all the visible trim in the room and grabbed a couple 5x7’ black rugs to use on the sides between the 8x10’ rug I already have down.

It’s a small extra 12x14’ room I’m converting into a media room, so I only have four feet to the left of the screen and 2’ on the right so side wall reflections definitely happen, so I’ll use the first run of velvet for the ceiling and side walls.










I wish I had more before and after pictures with my last projector and in both lighting conditions, but the room is nicely progressing!

I pulled that door off and made a few shelves for an AV closet that was prewired with electric and cable, one of the few things I was able to do before the walls went up and added a blackout velvet curtain over it for easy access.



























Sorry, I’m not very adept at screen grabs, but I like the contrast of this one I took the other day from BR 2049.


----------



## aoaaron

Luminated67 said:


> I switched from the Sony HW45 to the TW9400 (euro version), on 1080p contain the difference is minimal with the Epson having a bit better black and shadow detail compared to the Sony. It’s not till you feed it 4K HDR that the Epson moves up a gear and to another level in my opinion.




Cheers man, how is the SDE compared to the Sony?

And is the fan noise much worse?


----------



## Luminated67

aoaaron said:


> Cheers man, how is the SDE compared to the Sony?
> 
> And is the fan noise much worse?


Genuinely don’t know why people ask the question about screen door, maybe it was an issue in the past?

I honestly think the only way you will be able to answer that question is to go a see one because I’ve never seen it and I’m willing to bet everyone here who owns one hasn’t either but then some people see rainbow effect on DLPs and others don’t and if you don’t you can’t answer that question to someone.

As for fan noise, I do think positioning will pay its part here because the vents are at the front so if the projector is behind you there’s a chance you’ll hear it more than sat directly above you which is the case with mine. High lamp is the only mode I notice it, apart from the first time I switch it to Medium mode and the fan spins up fast before settling down to a little more than Eco mode.


----------



## termite

How many of you enjoy watching 3D with 5050 and what kind of screen do you find best for the optimal the 3D experience? I'm a big fan of 3D and love watching them on my 5050. My screen is a generic cheap 120' motorized screen which I bought from local Frys many years ago and I'm wondering if I benefit a lot by going to a different screen. Any feedback is appreciated ..
This is probably what I have now .. 
https://www.frys.com/product/6745415


----------



## aoaaron

Luminated67 said:


> aoaaron said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers man, how is the SDE compared to the Sony?
> 
> And is the fan noise much worse?
> 
> 
> 
> Genuinely donâ€™️t know why people ask the question about screen door, maybe it was an issue in the past?
> 
> I honestly think the only way you will be able to answer that question is to go a see one because Iâ€™️ve never seen it and Iâ€™️m willing to bet everyone here who owns one hasnâ€™️t either but then some people see rainbow effect on DLPs and others donâ€™️t and if you donâ€™️t you canâ€™️t answer that question to someone.
> 
> As for fan noise, I do think positioning will pay its part here because the vents are at the front so if the projector is behind you thereâ€™️s a chance youâ€™️ll hear it more than sat directly above you which is the case with mine. High lamp is the only mode I notice it, apart from the first time I switch it to Medium mode and the fan spins up fast before settling down to a little more than Eco mode.
Click to expand...

Thank you. What’s the brightness like compared to the hw40? I find I lack brightness even high mode on the hw40

Also weird questions but what are the dimensions of the Epson compared to the Sony? Is the depth (aka edge of the body to the lens) smaller? I could do woth a few extra cm throw distance


----------



## skylarlove1999

aoaaron said:


> Cheers man, how is the SDE compared to the Sony?
> 
> 
> 
> And is the fan noise much worse?


You have to get within 5 feet to even see any SDE. Any you have to really look for it .

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

aoaaron said:


> Thank you. What’s the brightness like compared to the hw40? I find I lack brightness even high mode on the hw40


I never had an issue with the brightness of the Sony so maybe on this occasion I’m not the guy to ask.



aoaaron said:


> Also weird questions but what are the dimensions of the Epson compared to the Sony? Is the depth (aka edge of the body to the lens) smaller? I could do woth a few extra cm throw distance


It’s significantly bigger than the Sony, couldn’t tell you by how much though but I’m sure the dimensions and available on both websites to compare.


----------



## skylarlove1999

aoaaron said:


> Thank you. What’s the brightness like compared to the hw40? I find I lack brightness even high mode on the hw40
> 
> Also weird questions but what are the dimensions of the Epson compared to the Sony? Is the depth (aka edge of the body to the lens) smaller? I could do woth a few extra cm throw distance


The Sony is rated at 1700 lumens. Epson at 2600 lumens. Keep in mind using the filter in Cinema or Digital Cinema mode will cut the lumens by more than half. Obviously your screen size, screen gain, screen material , room conditions and throw distance will affect how bright an image you see on screen. Haven't seem anyone complaining about brightness in over a year in this thread. Some people do object to the noise in high lamp mode.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

I've seen the current Sony, Epson, and JVC projectors in person for demos while I decide which to move to. Comparing the Sony to the Epson, isn't that big of a deal, bigger yes but not shockingly so. However, the JVC NX5/7/9 dwarfs all of them! I was shocked how large the JVC units are compared to the Sony and Epson models. And yes, I know that part of that is supporting the lens but still...


----------



## Luminated67

plain fan said:


> I've seen the current Sony, Epson, and JVC projectors in person for demos while I decide which to move to. Comparing the Sony to the Epson, isn't that big of a deal, bigger yes but not shockingly so. However, the JVC NX5/7/9 dwarfs all of them! I was shocked how large the JVC units are compared to the Sony and Epson models. And yes, I know that part of that is supporting the lens but still...


I think the real reason why the JVC looks bigger than the Epson is it’s height.

It’s actually 2cm lesser one width but 4.5cm longer and 4cm tall, plus it’s a square space were as the Epson is my sculptured.


----------



## Siggen

*New firmware 1.02*

Looks like there is a new firmware avaliable for the TW9400 (ver. 1.02) 25-may-2020.
Can not find any info on changelog.


----------



## mrdh68

Siggen said:


> Looks like there is a new firmware avaliable (ver. 1.02) 25-may-2020.
> Can not find any info on changelog.


There's also for the European version Tw9400. Where can be found what's the changes in the firmware?


----------



## Keith AP

Siggen said:


> Looks like there is a new firmware avaliable (ver. 1.02) 25-may-2020.
> Can not find any info on changelog.


Can you provide a link to the information? The US projector firmware page is listing 1.01 as latest.


----------



## Siggen

Keith AP said:


> Can you provide a link to the information? The US projector firmware page is listing 1.01 as latest.


Here is the link for the TW9400 (from the Norwegian site)

https://www.epson.no/support?productID=26871#drivers


----------



## Keith AP

Siggen said:


> Here is the link for the TW9400 (from the Norwegian site)
> 
> https://www.epson.no/support?productID=26871#drivers


Ah, wasn't aware you were referring to the 9400. Certainly let us know if you find anything out about the changes. Thanks.


----------



## Luminated67

I was about to do the firmware update on the projector but noticed the only USB port is for HDMI power not to accept downloads. It’s that long since I done it I can’t remember if I used a lead into the service.


----------



## Siggen

Luminated67 said:


> I was about to do the firmware update on the projector but noticed the only USB port is for HDMI power not to accept downloads. It’s that long since I done it I can’t remember if I used a lead into the service.


It looks like you should use port 7


----------



## Luminated67

Siggen said:


> It looks like you should use port 7


There the problem with a bat cave you can’t even see what’s in front of you. LOL

Tried to do it and the projector won’t play ball, hold power button, turn on power and all the lights come on but no flashing and shuts down after about 10-12 seconds and then turns itself on again doing the same thing.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> There the problem with a bat cave you can’t even see what’s in front of you. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> Tried to do it and the projector won’t play ball, hold power button, turn on power and all the lights come on but no flashing and shuts down after about 10-12 seconds and then turns itself on again doing the same thing.


Is this firmware update for USA projectors as well or just the one sold in Europe I couldn't find any firmware updates for the Epson 6050

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Siggen

Luminated67 said:


> There the problem with a bat cave you can’t even see what’s in front of you. LOL
> 
> Tried to do it and the projector won’t play ball, hold power button, turn on power and all the lights come on but no flashing and shuts down after about 10-12 seconds and then turns itself on again doing the same thing.


Have you formatted your memorystick with FAT?


----------



## aoaaron

Luminated67 said:


> I never had an issue with the brightness of the Sony so maybe on this occasion I’m not the guy to ask.
> 
> 
> 
> It’s significantly bigger than the Sony, couldn’t tell you by how much though but I’m sure the dimensions and available on both websites to compare.


Ahh crap. I readf on the site that the depth was 45 and I've measured my Hw40es and the depth is 50. I was hoping the depth (lens to body was shorter to allow me a couple of cm extra throw).


----------



## Luminated67

Siggen said:


> Have you formatted your memorystick with FAT?


My problem was I was trying to download and transfer to the USB, never done it before and was accidentally unzipping the file before transferring to the USB. Once the son sorted this out it when on within 2 minutes.


----------



## Luminated67

aoaaron said:


> Ahh crap. I readf on the site that the depth was 45 and I've measured my Hw40es and the depth is 50. I was hoping the depth (lens to body was shorter to allow me a couple of cm extra throw).


I’m surprised a couple of cm extra throw would have made much of a difference to be honest with you.


----------



## Luminated67

On the subject of the firmware, does anyone know what it’s for and if it’s added anything new.


----------



## SG_

Trying to find a replacement lamp but it's out of stock on the Epson website. Anyone know where else to find a replacement?


----------



## aoaaron

Luminated67 said:


> I’m surprised a couple of cm extra throw would have made much of a difference to be honest with you.




yeah its the difference potentially between it filling out my screen and not.
if u have the 2 PJs at hand could u please check for me? thanks.

THe h40es measurements state its 45cm but the lens actually sticks out. ive looke dat photos of the epson and it looks like the lens doesnt stick out.. so maybe i gain a few cm? that couple of extra inches would entice me to upgrade (ontop of the extra brightness, 4k, hdr, lens shift options, gaming features). 

interested to know for those that game on this PJ 6050ub.. how do games look? games on my hw40es look blurry and lack detail. was wondering how the 4k e-shift handles this.


----------



## Luminated67

aoaaron said:


> yeah its the difference potentially between it filling out my screen and not.
> if u have the 2 PJs at hand could u please check for me? thanks.
> 
> THe h40es measurements state its 45cm but the lens actually sticks out. ive looke dat photos of the epson and it looks like the lens doesnt stick out.. so maybe i gain a few cm? that couple of extra inches would entice me to upgrade (ontop of the extra brightness, 4k, hdr, lens shift options, gaming features).
> 
> interested to know for those that game on this PJ 6050ub.. how do games look? games on my hw40es look blurry and lack detail. was wondering how the 4k e-shift handles this.


The Sony is in the room behind my fixed frame screen so would have to be removed to get at it.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

This website is your friend as it does the calculating for you. The overall length of the Epson includes the lens which sits behind a cover inside the body itself, the depth of the 5050 is 45cm but if you intend to position it as close to the back wall as you can I think you have to add another 5-6cm to that figure.

So if you want to place it tight to the back wall measure the distance from the wall to the screen and subtract 51cm from the figure and then put this figure into the distance section on the calculator hit the lock button and then adjust the zoom section to see if your screen size is covered... it’s that simple.


----------



## aoaaron

Luminated67 said:


> The Sony is in the room behind my fixed frame screen so would have to be removed to get at it.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> This website is your friend as it does the calculating for you. The overall length of the Epson includes the lens which sits behind a cover inside the body itself, the depth of the 5050 is 45cm but if you intend to position it as close to the back wall as you can I think you have to add another 5-6cm to that figure.
> 
> So if you want to place it tight to the back wall measure the distance from the wall to the screen and subtract 51cm from the figure and then put this figure into the distance section on the calculator hit the lock button and then adjust the zoom section to see if your screen size is covered... it’s that simple.




Thanks. Yeah I was just looking for a comparison between it and the HW40ES.

Measuring my HW40ES, from the back to the lens it looks like its 49cm. I know this is being pedantic but that 4cm of extra throw distance might allow me to completely fill my PJ screen which ticks off an annoyance with my OCD. 

I'll aim to put the PJ so its back is right to the wall. That should then in theory give me an extra 4cm throw. Following the calculators on the site, the image should be a couple of inches bigger which is perfect. 

hashtag small room problems.


----------



## Luminated67

aoaaron said:


> Thanks. Yeah I was just looking for a comparison between it and the HW40ES.
> 
> Measuring my HW40ES, from the back to the lens it looks like its 49cm. I know this is being pedantic but that 4cm of extra throw distance might allow me to completely fill my PJ screen which ticks off an annoyance with my OCD.
> 
> I'll aim to put the PJ so its back is right to the wall. That should then in theory give me an extra 4cm throw. Following the calculators on the site, the image should be a couple of inches bigger which is perfect.
> 
> hashtag small room problems.


As long as you allow 5-6 cm gap between the back of the projector and the wall in your measurements you will be fine, one great benefit you’ll have with the zoom wide open is more lumens so HDR will benefit and with SDR you can close the iris down to reduce the lumens.


----------



## IslaTurbine

Does anyone here have issues with the screen blanking out after about 45 minutes into watching watching Netflix or Fandango apps on an Xbox One? Our 6050 keeps doing it like it’s going into some sort of sleep function. Pressing a button on the Xbox controller wakes it back up. It’s really annoying and I can’t find any settings on the 6050 or Xbox that would seem to impact it.


----------



## --Sclaws

SG_ said:


> Trying to find a replacement lamp but it's out of stock on the Epson website. Anyone know where else to find a replacement?


Got my last one at bhphotovideo.


----------



## Malodium

The last time there was a firmware update the projector used my wireless connection to download and update. Or at least it said it did. We dont need usb do we?


Also, anyone have good recommendation for some 3D glasses that work fine with this that don't cost an arm and a leg?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Malodium said:


> The last time there was a firmware update the projector used my wireless connection to download and update. Or at least it said it did. We dont need usb do we?
> 
> 
> Also, anyone have good recommendation for some 3D glasses that work fine with this that don't cost an arm and a leg?


I am not aware of it Epson projectors for home use updating firmware via the Internet it has always been the process to download the firmware update to a USB stick and insert the stick.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

IslaTurbine said:


> Does anyone here have issues with the screen blanking out after about 45 minutes into watching watching Netflix or Fandango apps on an Xbox One? Our 6050 keeps doing it like it’s going into some sort of sleep function. Pressing a button on the Xbox controller wakes it back up. It’s really annoying and I can’t find any settings on the 6050 or Xbox that would seem to impact it.


Is the projector going to sleep? Probably your CEC control is getting a message that's something shut off and is triggering shut down on the projector even though those Display Devices are still on. I would try turning off CEC control in both the device and the projector

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Malodium

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am not aware of it Epson projectors for home use updating firmware via the Internet it has always been the process to download the firmware update to a USB stick and insert the stick.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



All I know is that I turned it on one day and it said there was an update ready to go and if I wanted to download and install it. I clicked yes and it... did it, I guess?
I never did check the firmware revision number to see though, kind of assumed it just worked.
Should probably check that when I get home.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Malodium said:


> All I know is that I turned it on one day and it said there was an update ready to go and if I wanted to download and install it. I clicked yes and it... did it, I guess?
> I never did check the firmware revision number to see though, kind of assumed it just worked.
> Should probably check that when I get home.


That would be a really cool new way for firmware updates by Epson if it were true

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Malodium

skylarlove1999 said:


> That would be a really cool new way for firmware updates by Epson if it were true
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Now you make me wonder if I dreamt it! lol
Guess we will see if the same thing happens with this new update.


----------



## Luminated67

I’ve done mine to v1.02 but couldn’t tell you what’s different if anything. Haven’t tried a 4K Bluray yet today so who knows it might have Frame by Frame DTM.


----------



## IslaTurbine

skylarlove1999 said:


> Is the projector going to sleep? Probably your CEC control is getting a message that's something shut off and is triggering shut down on the projector even though those Display Devices are still on. I would try turning off CEC control in both the device and the projector
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yeah I can't figure it out. I have a Yamaha TSR-7850 (Costco version) AVR between the Xbox and the 6050, so that may be the cause. I'll disconnect the Yamaha plug directly into the Xbox and see if it still does it. 

I hate to turn off CEC because the Yamaha uses stupid line-of-site for it's remote and our unit is in a closet.


----------



## fredworld

Malodium said:


> ... anyone have good recommendation for some 3D glasses that work fine with this that don't cost an arm and a leg?



*See this post* and the link in it for some suggestions. I hope this helps.


----------



## Malodium

fredworld said:


> *See this post* and the link in it for some suggestions. I hope this helps.



thank you


----------



## fredworld

--Sclaws said:


> Got my last one at bhphotovideo.





SG_ said:


> Trying to find a replacement lamp but it's out of stock on the Epson website. Anyone know where else to find a replacement?



I've had excellent experience with *MyProjectorLamps* when ordering for my previous projector. You'll probably have to call them to see if the 5050/6050 lamp is in stock.


----------



## Luminated67

IslaTurbine said:


> Yeah I can't figure it out. I have a Yamaha TSR-7850 (Costco version) AVR between the Xbox and the 6050, so that may be the cause. I'll disconnect the Yamaha plug directly into the Xbox and see if it still does it.
> 
> I hate to turn off CEC because the Yamaha uses stupid line-of-site for it's remote and our unit is in a closet.


Get yourself this and job done, my Sony Amp and Sky Box both sit in the room behind the screen and I used this and it works seamlessly.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I’ve done mine to v1.02 but couldn’t tell you what’s different if anything. Haven’t tried a 4K Bluray yet today so who knows it might have Frame by Frame DTM.


Don't joke like that. It is not funny. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## LIPLASMA

I have a 6050ub about a year old now with 1700hrs on the bulb. I was wondering how do I know when its time to replace the bulb? 

Thanks!


----------



## noob00224

LIPLASMA said:


> I have a 6050ub about a year old now with 1700hrs on the bulb. I was wondering how do I know when its time to replace the bulb?
> 
> Thanks!


If it's too dim. Or when it reaches 2500-3000h and keep the old lamp as a spare. The lamps are not that expensive and it's not worth loosing brightness and maybe blowing up in the projector. It's also recommended to keep the lamp on High once in a while to reduce the likelihood of flickering.

This is what the lamps are rated for:
ECO mode: Up to 5000 hours
Medium mode: Up to 4000 hours
High Mode: Up to 3,500 hours


----------



## biglen

What's everyone doing when they watch a 1080p BluRay? Do you use the 4k enhancement, or no?


----------



## LIPLASMA

noob00224 said:


> If it's too dim. Or when it reaches 2500-3000h and keep the old lamp as a spare. The lamps are not that expensive and it's not worth loosing brightness and maybe blowing up in the projector. It's also recommended to keep the lamp on High once in a while to reduce the likelihood of flickering.
> 
> This is what the lamps are rated for:
> ECO mode: Up to 5000 hours
> Medium mode: Up to 4000 hours
> High Mode: Up to 3,500 hours


Thanks. 

I watch mostly 4K HDR so I have it in the high mode most of the time because I use digital cinema for it and it gives the best POP in the HDR. My daughter mentioned the other day she thought it looked dimmer that is why I was asking.


----------



## covsound1

LIPLASMA said:


> I have a 6050ub about a year old now with 1700hrs on the bulb. I was wondering how do I know when its time to replace the bulb?
> 
> Thanks!


 After 950 hours i usually start shopping for a new bulb. That would be about 900$ for 3 lamps for 2 years service in your case.:frown:


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> What's everyone doing when they watch a 1080p BluRay? Do you use the 4k enhancement, or no?


 I have been doing 1080p with no 4k but enhancements on between 4 and 5.


----------



## BIC2

noob00224 said:


> If it's too dim. Or when it reaches 2500-3000h and keep the old lamp as a spare. The lamps are not that expensive and it's not worth loosing brightness and maybe blowing up in the projector. It's also recommended to keep the lamp on High once in a while to reduce the likelihood of flickering.
> 
> This is what the lamps are rated for:
> ECO mode: Up to 5000 hours
> Medium mode: Up to 4000 hours
> High Mode: Up to 3,500 hours


The lamp meter appears to count only total hours, no breakdown for Eco, Med & Hi. Is this correct? Thanks.


----------



## BIC2

Anybody know if 2012 Panasonic VT50 series plasma Bluetooth 3D glasses work with the 5050/6050? Thanks.


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> What's everyone doing when they watch a 1080p BluRay? Do you use the 4k enhancement, or no?


I’ve always used e-shift but I do switch between the presets, average quality 2, good quality 3 but occasionally I have used 4...... never use 5.

You do know that you can actually tweak each of these presets if you want.


----------



## mauro145

Keith AP said:


> Can you provide a link to the information? The US projector firmware page is listing 1.01 as latest.


In New Zealand we have the 1.03 as the latest

Cant copy the link.

Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

mauro145 said:


> In New Zealand we have the 1.03 as the latest
> 
> Cant copy the link.
> 
> Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


Funny but on the UK website it says 1.02 but after checking the projector says 103 so I think we are on the same version.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> I’ve always used e-shift but I do switch between the presets, average quality 2, good quality 3 but occasionally I have used 4...... never use 5.
> 
> 
> 
> You do know that you can actually tweak each of these presets if you want.


Yes, I knew you could adjust the settings, but after my 5050 was professionally calibrated, I never really messed with the settings. I did try a 1080p Bluray last night, with 4k Enhancement turned off. For the first time since owning the 5050, I noticed the SDE. With the 4k Enhancement turned back on, there was zero SDE. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Yes, I knew you could adjust the settings, but after my 5050 was professionally calibrated, I never really messed with the settings. I did try a 1080p Bluray last night, with 4k Enhancement turned off. For the first time since owning the 5050, I noticed the SDE. With the 4k Enhancement turned back on, there was zero SDE.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


How close do you sit from the screen normally. I must admit I never use it with e-shift OFF simply because it give a better image in my opinion.

I think I need to try this out next time I’m watching something.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> How close do you sit from the screen normally. I must admit I never use it with e-shift OFF simply because it give a better image in my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I need to try this out next time I’m watching something.


I'm about 12' away. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I'm about 12' away.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


What’s the screen size then?


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> What’s the screen size then?


I'm not 100% sure, because I don't use a screen. I did a painted screen, which takes up the entire wall. If I had to guess, the Scope image is probably 125"? My projector is 13' 3" from the wall. I don't know if that helps with calculating what the image size would be from that distance. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I'm not 100% sure, because I don't use a screen. I did a painted screen, which takes up the entire wall. If I had to guess, the Scope image is probably 125"? My projector is 13' 3" from the wall. I don't know if that helps with calculating what the image size would be from that distance.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I’m guessing you are approaching zoom wide open, similar to my own setup so great for HDR.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> I’m guessing you are approaching zoom wide open, similar to my own setup so great for HDR.


Yes, the zoom is maxed out. I forget how I did it, but I wanted the Scope image to fill the wall, so I used something that told me I needed to be 13'3" from the screen, to fill the wall out with the image. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

My eyes tells me what adjustments effect others and how they all work together. One of the reasons i have not done a calibration at this point because i am still learning this projector and want to be able to address all problems with my calibrator. I have found image enhancement effects detail and contrast at the same time and each one is like a stop gate. No one setting works with all movies as older movies i find my self on level 4 or sometimes 3. For most movies level 5 gives me the most detail and contrast. This often gets a bad rap because of added noise (stuff that is not in the picture). This stuff can be adjusted with contrast settings and other settings Epson has in the menu. To me the biggest deference between the 5040 and the 5050 is the refinement at level 5. Think of it this way would you leave your hdr setting at the standard level 8 with all your movies?


----------



## Luminated67

Ok the latest firmware, now I’m not one who is affected by motion but I think it’s one area that the Firmware has improved or I’m being fooled into thinking it’s better. Also I too think the fan isn’t as loud.


----------



## dkcinema

Luminated67 said:


> Ok the latest firmware, now I’m not one who is affected by motion but I think it’s one area that the Firmware has improved or I’m being fooled into thinking it’s better. Also I too think the fan isn’t as loud.


So I found the new 1.02 firmware for the TW9400 on the EU Epson website.

Can this or should this firmware be used for my USA 6050ub projector?

I'll try to playback some movies I know where motion was not as great and compare it after the firmware. It would be great if it really improved motion.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Maybe they addressed the Fast/Fine setting in firmware 1.02, might explain the variance in motion being reported..?

US website still showing 1.01.

- Jason


----------



## HAMMo7

IslaTurbine said:


> Does anyone here have issues with the screen blanking out after about 45 minutes into watching watching Netflix or Fandango apps on an Xbox One? Our 6050 keeps doing it like it’s going into some sort of sleep function. Pressing a button on the Xbox controller wakes it back up. It’s really annoying and I can’t find any settings on the 6050 or Xbox that would seem to impact it.


I had something similar happen while watching Hulu on Xbox one S. It would start to go to sleep after about 30 mins. 
I did watch The Lion King on Disney+ and it was fine. No idea why


----------



## covsound1

Frimware 103 is a lumen update. hdr 5 on old firmware is now standard 8. for you guys not using filter wow talk about bright. whole new projector looks like more detail too.


----------



## covsound1

Please do 103 update you will be happy forever. Folks we have a lot to be proud of.


----------



## jaredmwright

covsound1 said:


> Please do 103 update you will be happy forever. Folks we have a lot to be proud of.


Anyone have a link to the firmware? US based 6050ub here and would like to try it.


Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

jaredmwright said:


> Anyone have a link to the firmware? US based 6050ub here and would like to try it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


lost link go to uk epson site.I think someone posted link.


----------



## jaredmwright

covsound1 said:


> lost link go to uk epson site.I think someone posted link.


I went to look on the UK site but only see version 1.02

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## mauro145

Here is the NZ site. But I would wait for the update of my specific model, just in case.

http://tech.epson.co.nz/downloads/category.asp?sCategory=Projector&id=EH-TW9400&SelOS=Y


Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

covsound1 said:


> Frimware 103 is a lumen update. hdr 5 on old firmware is now standard 8. for you guys not using filter wow talk about bright. whole new projector looks like more detail too.


It's not April 1st. 


I will measure light output pre and post 1.02 (under my current settings) but not going to update until it's on Epson USA.

Current screen center read (@ 100 IRE full field) is 206 lux, we'll see...

* Measure taken using medium lamp in Natural and fairly aggressive manual iris setting.

- Jason


----------



## Luminated67

jaredmwright said:


> I went to look on the UK site but only see version 1.02
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


UK version quotes 1.02 but when you check version after doing the update the last numbers on say 103 so I’m pretty sure it’s the same as the NZ update.


----------



## jklow888

Luminated67 said:


> UK version quotes 1.02 but when you check version after doing the update the last numbers on say 103 so I’m pretty sure it’s the same as the NZ update.


Epson Australia lists 1.03 and uploaded on 22/05/2020 - loading firmware now but may not have time to try it out.


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> It's not April 1st.
> 
> 
> I will measure light output pre and post 1.02 (under my current settings) but not going to update until it's on Epson USA.
> 
> Current screen center read (@ 100 IRE full field) is 206 lux, we'll see...
> 
> * Measure taken using medium lamp in Natural and fairly aggressive manual iris setting.
> 
> - Jason


Thanks really would like to know.I came from 1.01 new in the box. If i recall they had a update 1.02 that was supposed to effect fi problems at 1080p and motion. This one says lumen at the end of label. And should say 1.03 on your projector. Also look at the detail and contrast if i didnt know better i would think i had a real 4k projector. I use b&W cinema as my go too when not using the color filter also with a very aggressive manual iris.


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> Ok the latest firmware, now I’m not one who is affected by motion but I think it’s one area that the Firmware has improved or I’m being fooled into thinking it’s better. Also I too think the fan isn’t as loud.


Think i would have to agree with you on both counts.


----------



## dkcinema

covsound1 said:


> Think i would have to agree with you on both counts.


Can you describe how you think it handles motion better?

I guess for me, it's the fact that there is no motion interpolation happening at all if you feed the projector a 4k video. And since a projector has such a large screen compared to my 65" 4k tv I can really notice the 24fps playback on the projector. I have a Vizio P series 4k tv and I actually I have a sliding scale for motion interpolation from 1-10 and I like settings this between 2-3. I know most people say they hate this and it was designed for 24p etc but I don't agree. It's an old mentality that has stuck with us for ages. I think with my Vizio at 2-3 it's probably adding in only 1-2 frames to the video and might be running at somewhere between 48-72fps. I think this really adds in some smoothness to the video but not making it look like the soap opera effect that everyone hates.

I'm going to try to test this today on my 6050ub. I'm pretty picky with this type of stuff and I'll have to test some scenes before/after in some movies where I found to notice more of the motion problems with the projector. I personally think there is a certain speed the camera is panning where you notice more of the motion issues.

Also can anyone confirm that these firmware from the global sites can be applied to my USA 6050ub?


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> Thanks really would like to know.I came from 1.01 new in the box. If i recall they had a update 1.02 that was supposed to effect fi problems at 1080p and motion. This one says lumen at the end of label. And should say 1.03 on your projector. Also look at the detail and contrast if i didnt know better i would think i had a real 4k projector. I use b&W cinema as my go too when not using the color filter also with a very aggressive manual iris.


Can you take a picture of the firmware on the projector info screen , pretty please 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Can you take a picture of the firmware on the projector info screen , pretty please
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


OK my first uploaded pic in years!


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> OK my first uploaded pic in years!


Thank you!! I am waiting with eager anticipation!!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

covsound1 said:


> OK my first uploaded pic in years!


Yep that’s the same as mine says.


----------



## Luminated67

dkcinema said:


> Can you describe how you think it handles motion better?
> 
> I guess for me, it's the fact that there is no motion interpolation happening at all if you feed the projector a 4k video. And since a projector has such a large screen compared to my 65" 4k tv I can really notice the 24fps playback on the projector. I have a Vizio P series 4k tv and I actually I have a sliding scale for motion interpolation from 1-10 and I like settings this between 2-3. I know most people say they hate this and it was designed for 24p etc but I don't agree. It's an old mentality that has stuck with us for ages. I think with my Vizio at 2-3 it's probably adding in only 1-2 frames to the video and might be running at somewhere between 48-72fps. I think this really adds in some smoothness to the video but not making it look like the soap opera effect that everyone hates.
> 
> I'm going to try to test this today on my 6050ub. I'm pretty picky with this type of stuff and I'll have to test some scenes before/after in some movies where I found to notice more of the motion problems with the projector. I personally think there is a certain speed the camera is panning where you notice more of the motion issues.
> 
> Also can anyone confirm that these firmware from the global sites can be applied to my USA 6050ub?


Genuinely if you are one of the few that are truly affected by motion then maybe DLP projectors would be your best option as they definitely hand it best of all. After this the order is Sony, then JVC but I would now need to see a JVC along side the Epson to compare as I reckon it’s close.


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you!! I am waiting with eager anticipation!!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Well at lest I found a way to upload now. Just wish i knew how upload with the phone .


----------



## dkcinema

Luminated67 said:


> Genuinely if you are one of the few that are truly affected by motion then maybe DLP projectors would be your best option as they definitely hand it best of all. After this the order is Sony, then JVC but I would now need to see a JVC along side the Epson to compare as I reckon it’s close.


Well I already bought the 6050ub lol. I have a real close friend and his cousin is an installer. So I got his prices for the 5050ub, 6050ub, NX-5, Sony 295 I think it was, and NX-7. In the end the 6050ub ended up being the best deal since it was so close in price to the 5050ub. And even though all his prices were substantially discounted for me, it wasn't worth it for me to get the JVC's...

It's not that I think the Epson is horrible and I haven't owned a projector in a long time at this point so my only point of reference is actually LED tv's. But again I'm a pretty technical person and I like to understand how things work and even on my Vizio I can see how the technology works and if I keep all motion settings off I can see the effects of playing back at 24fps.

I was just pointing out that I'm not of the mindset that everything has to be 24fps or else lol.

I didn't think the Epson was bad with motion I'm just saying that with my 158" cinescope screen, you can notice the playback of 24fps much more then say on my 65" Vizio.

And I believe there is a certain panning speed where you notice of the motion issue I think people are talking about. I guess technically it's a "lack of real frames". I'm very curious to test the new firmware.

But I would like to confirm I can use this firmware on a 6050ub.


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> OK my first uploaded pic in years!


Thanks!!! You say better motion and improved HDR correct? I wish they would have it here for download in the United States. Anybody have a link to the US firmware update download?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> Well at lest I found a way to upload now. Just wish i knew how upload with the phone .


Just tap on the + sign to upload a photo.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> Just tap on the + sign to upload a photo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 Thankyou. so i download tapatalk app?


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> Thankyou. so i download tapatalk app?


Correct. You'll love it, compared to using a browser on your phone. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sekosche

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you!! I am waiting with eager anticipation!!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Picked up a Panny 420 yesterday (solid sale price at BB) with The Invisible Man UHD disc. Which output settings are necessary on the 5050 and 420 to utilize the tone mapping? I haven’t hooked the player up yet, but I’m curious what differences the latest Epson firmware will have on HDR.

Thanks,
Scott


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> Correct. You'll love it, compared to using a browser on your phone.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks again. This was first day out the box and my first test pic with talkapak!









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> Thanks again. This was first day out the box and my first test pic with talkapak!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


It's so much better than the web version, right? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

Anything official from Epson stating what the update does?


----------



## biglen

Sekosche said:


> Picked up a Panny 420 yesterday (solid sale price at BB) with The Invisible Man UHD disc. Which output settings are necessary on the 5050 and 420 to utilize the tone mapping? I haven’t hooked the player up yet, but I’m curious what differences the latest Epson firmware will have on HDR.
> 
> Thanks,
> Scott


Set the 420 to output SDR/2020, and that will force the 420 to handle tone mapping. The 420 does a better job than the 5050. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thanks!!! You say better motion and improved HDR correct? I wish they would have it here for download in the United States. Anybody have a link to the US firmware update download?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


USA site is still showing 1.01.


* For some reason every time that I post the link for the Epson firmware page it goes to the Epson weekly deals page. 


- Jason


----------



## skylarlove1999

DaGamePimp said:


> USA site is still showing 1.01.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * For some reason every time that I post the link for the Epson firmware page it goes to the Epson weekly deals page.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


Thank you Jason. Seems like we have two choices: wait for USA to update or test a foreign version. I am going to be cautious and just wait.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you Jason. Seems like we have two choices: wait for USA to update or test a foreign version. I am going to be cautious and just wait.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk




I am going to wait as well. 

- Jason


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> It's so much better than the web version, right?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes so much better.!!


Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> I am going to wait as well.
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


Well since I did it I will report any bad effects. With my experience with the 5040 the us was always last to update. This may explain why 1.01 was different or refined in the us compared to the uk version. With that said I understand your decision to wait. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Personally the only reason why I would wait if in the US is that we in the UK and Europe have a different voltage on our projectors compared to yourselves so just in case it would put more demand on the power supply it’s probably wisest to wait.


----------



## LIPLASMA

DaGamePimp said:


> I am going to wait as well.
> 
> - Jason


Just an FYI.

I used the UK version and no issues at all. This is the second time I have used the UK version so I feel pretty confident there is no difference. If you check the file size Australia, UK, and New Zeland are all the same file sizes.


----------



## skylarlove1999

plain fan said:


> Anything official from Epson stating what the update does?


Great question. I reached out to my contact at Epson. No response yet.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Can anyone comment on the discussion below?





Granny Lee said:


> Just a quick reminder - the projector itself does not have HDMI2.1, it uses HDMI2.0b just like most other projectors and TVs. Which means [email protected]+HDR is fine, but not with 10bit color.





Granny Lee said:


> I wonder why. The manual also mentions that the projector supports 18gbps transmmision band. If it did have an HDMI2.1 then it would be saying 48gbps instead.
> 
> And afair 18gbps isn't enough for [email protected]+HDR+10bits


----------



## Psylocke

*AppleTV Dull HDR*

I have been watching a lot of Amazon Prime/ netflix / Disney+ TV shows etc latley. They look great with sdr 1080 shows but whenever I use 4k HDR for movies on the Apple TV I find the picture is Dim and dull. I use Digital Cinema when I switch the Apple TV to HDR (hate that you have to switch the ATV to HDR manually). I also find when Digital Cinema or Cinema is used the filter creates a dull red hue on the screen. Especially on the ATV Menu.

AM I doing something wrong? HDR looks great when I play it on my Panasonic UB9000 with Ultra HD 4k Blu rays.

Should I buy a HDFury Vertex2 or Diva to help. Would it be worth it? Would this work well with the Panny too?

I am using a Stewart Firehawk 1.3 gain 95" 16x9 screen by the way. 310 hours on the bulb.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## DaGamePimp

noob00224 said:


> Can anyone comment on the discussion below?



18gbps (HDMI 2.0b) is enough for 4K 60Hz HDR 10/12 bit @ 4:2:0 and 4:2:2 but not @ 4:4:4.

- Jason


----------



## HAMMo7

dkcinema said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Genuinely if you are one of the few that are truly affected by motion then maybe DLP projectors would be your best option as they definitely hand it best of all. After this the order is Sony, then JVC but I would now need to see a JVC along side the Epson to compare as I reckon itâ€™️s close.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I already bought the 6050ub lol. I have a real close friend and his cousin is an installer. So I got his prices for the 5050ub, 6050ub, NX-5, Sony 295 I think it was, and NX-7. In the end the 6050ub ended up being the best deal since it was so close in price to the 5050ub. And even though all his prices were substantially discounted for me, it wasn't worth it for me to get the JVC's...
> 
> It's not that I think the Epson is horrible and I haven't owned a projector in a long time at this point so my only point of reference is actually LED tv's. But again I'm a pretty technical person and I like to understand how things work and even on my Vizio I can see how the technology works and if I keep all motion settings off I can see the effects of playing back at 24fps.
> 
> I was just pointing out that I'm not of the mindset that everything has to be 24fps or else lol.
> 
> I didn't think the Epson was bad with motion I'm just saying that with my 158" cinescope screen, you can notice the playback of 24fps much more then say on my 65" Vizio.
> 
> And I believe there is a certain panning speed where you notice of the motion issue I think people are talking about. I guess technically it's a "lack of real frames". I'm very curious to test the new firmware.
> 
> But I would like to confirm I can use this firmware on a 6050ub.
Click to expand...

How is the 6050 with 158” scope? I’m thinking of either a 142” or 158” silver ticket screen


----------



## biglen

Psylocke said:


> I have been watching a lot of Amazon Prime/ netflix / Disney+ TV shows etc latley. They look great with sdr 1080 shows but whenever I use 4k HDR for movies on the Apple TV I find the picture is Dim and dull. I use Digital Cinema when I switch the Apple TV to HDR (hate that you have to switch the ATV to HDR manually). I also find when Digital Cinema or Cinema is used the filter creates a dull red hue on the screen. Especially on the ATV Menu.
> 
> 
> 
> AM I doing something wrong? HDR looks great when I play it on my Panasonic UB9000 with Ultra HD 4k Blu rays.
> 
> 
> 
> Should I buy a HDFury Vertex2 or Diva to help. Would it be worth it? Would this work well with the Panny too?
> 
> 
> 
> I am using a Stewart Firehawk 1.3 gain 95" 16x9 screen by the way. 310 hours on the bulb.
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


Did you mess around with the HDR slider?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

HAMMo7 said:


> How is the 6050 with 158” scope? I’m thinking of either a 142” or 158” silver ticket screen


I personally love mine. I got the Silver Ticket one as well.

I know people will say getting 16:9 might be the best option since height is usually limitation of most people's room. My situation was slightly different. In my basement the largest 16:9 screen I would have been able to fit is around 165-170" and Silver ticket sells them in 150 and 175". But my wall is wide enough where I was able to get the 158" Cinescope.

Since most of my viewing content is movies I decided to go with the 158". And since I was comparing the 158" vs the 150" 16:9 since those are the two that fit, for movies that are 2.00:1 ratios the size of the picture between both screens were close enough at that point to not matter. So for me it was did I want a much larger cinescope vs 16:9 content.

With the cinescope screen you might run into the occasional movies that change aspect ratio or if they forced subs it could possibly get cut off. So some things to think about.

I prefer a brighter screen so theres no issue with brightness with the 6050ub using Natural mode and still getting that 85% color coverage.


----------



## HAMMo7

dkcinema said:


> HAMMo7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How is the 6050 with 158â€ scope? Iâ€™️m thinking of either a 142â€ or 158â€ silver ticket screen
> 
> 
> 
> I personally love mine. I got the Silver Ticket one as well.
> 
> I know people will say getting 16:9 might be the best option since height is usually limitation of most people's room. My situation was slightly different. In my basement the largest 16:9 screen I would have been able to fit is around 165-170" and Silver ticket sells them in 150 and 175". But my wall is wide enough where I was able to get the 158" Cinescope.
> 
> Since most of my viewing content is movies I decided to go with the 158". And since I was comparing the 158" vs the 150" 16:9 since those are the two that fit, for movies that are 2.00:1 ratios the size of the picture between both screens were close enough at that point to not matter. So for me it was did I want a much larger cinescope vs 16:9 content.
> 
> With the cinescope screen you might run into the occasional movies that change aspect ratio or if they forced subs it could possibly get cut off. So some things to think about.
> 
> I prefer a brighter screen so theres no issue with brightness with the 6050ub using Natural mode and still getting that 85% color coverage.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your reply. Sounds fantastic. Think that’s the route I’ll take. Might do an AT


----------



## covsound1

Hello all , would like to add or retrack my statement about better motion with the Epson as the projector does not add anything to 4k 2 3 1 pull down. What ever you have in the film is what you get. Most of us will not be bothered by this and some will. Some chips double this pull down and looks more fluid but natural. Some do it in odd order and apply frames that where not there to begin with and you get that hard video look or soap opera effect. The benefits of this you get a chance to see more of the frame so it appears sharper. I am not a guru just trying to help others understand what all the fuss is about. Like it has been stated before you have pick your preference. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

DaGamePimp said:


> 18gbps (HDMI 2.0b) is enough for 4K 60Hz HDR 10/12 bit @ 4:2:0 and 4:2:2 but not @ 4:4:4.
> 
> - Jason


On page 170 of the 5050UB manual it says otherwise.

So is this post accurate then?



GeoGemini said:


> In the Epson 3800 manual there is a footnote that states that 4k 60hz 4:4:4 10-bit and 12-bit are displayed at 4:2:2 pixel encoding... So it does do 4k 60hz HDR 10bits, but it downsamples the chroma output, presumably to avoid the hdmi 2.0 speed limits?
> 
> Epson 3800 compatible 4k signals shown on page 148... Note the asterisk on the 4k/60hz 4:4:4 line item. Perhaps the 5050ub manual failed to include this caveat?
> https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd57551.pdf


----------



## DaGamePimp

noob00224 said:


> On page 170 of the 5050UB manual it says otherwise.
> 
> So is this post accurate then?


The 5050ub manual should include the * since it's a technical limitation of the HDMI 2.0b chipset regardless of the display device. 

That said... my 2080ti equipped pc will not send 4K 60Hz HDR @ 4:4:4, the moment HDR is enabled (@ 4K 60Hz) it's 4:2:0 or 4:2:2 output only.

So unless the game has properly done HDR (like Gears of War 5) I play at 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 and leave HDR off.

We need true 12-bit displays. 

- Jason


----------



## BIC2

HAMMo7 said:


> How is the 6050 with 158” scope? I’m thinking of either a 142” or 158” silver ticket screen





dkcinema said:


> I personally love mine. I got the Silver Ticket one as well.
> 
> I know people will say getting 16:9 might be the best option since height is usually limitation of most people's room. My situation was slightly different. In my basement the largest 16:9 screen I would have been able to fit is around 165-170" and Silver ticket sells them in 150 and 175". But my wall is wide enough where I was able to get the 158" Cinescope.
> 
> Since most of my viewing content is movies I decided to go with the 158". And since I was comparing the 158" vs the 150" 16:9 since those are the two that fit, for movies that are 2.00:1 ratios the size of the picture between both screens were close enough at that point to not matter. So for me it was did I want a much larger cinescope vs 16:9 content.
> 
> With the cinescope screen you might run into the occasional movies that change aspect ratio or if they forced subs it could possibly get cut off. So some things to think about.
> 
> I prefer a brighter screen so theres no issue with brightness with the 6050ub using Natural mode and still getting that 85% color coverage.


There are screen manufacturers that will make custom sizes, Seymour AV (made in Ames, Iowa) being one of them (no extra cost). I have the acoustically transparent XD in 16:9. I'm neither height or width restricted and find the 16:9 to be the better option if space is not a concern.


----------



## Psylocke

​


biglen said:


> Did you mess around with the HDR slider?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes I have played with the slider. It does make it better but still not as good as 4k Blu Ray HDR on my Panasonic. Especially with Dolby Vision content on the Apple TV.


----------



## Luminated67

covsound1 said:


> Hello all , would like to add or retrack my statement about better motion with the Epson as the projector does not add anything to 4k 2 3 1 pull down. What ever you have in the film is what you get. Most of us will not be bothered by this and some will. Some chips double this pull down and looks more fluid but natural. Some do it in odd order and apply frames that where not there to begin with and you get that hard video look or soap opera effect. The benefits of this you get a chance to see more of the frame so it appears sharper. I am not a guru just trying to help others understand what all the fuss is about. Like it has been stated before you have pick your preference.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I need to watch some of the same movies to be 100% sure but I’ve watched a full movie now after the firmware update and I have come to a few conclusions. E-shift has been tweaked or they done something with the optics because there’s less pixelation and everything appears smoother without losing any of its crispness. Definitely brighter and as I already mentioned though I think the motion is a bit better though the jury is still undecided on that one as this might vary from movie to movie.

IMHO this is a better machine now than the one I bought to begin with and if I was ever considering a replacement any time soon those thoughts have properly vanished.


----------



## Luminated67

Psylocke said:


> ​
> Yes I have played with the slider. It does make it better but still not as good as 4k Blu Ray HDR on my Panasonic. Especially with Dolby Vision content on the Apple TV.


If you are expecting TV levels of HDR from a projector it isn’t going to happen unfortunately, even the JVC N-series can’t compete, you need to readjust your expectations.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I need to watch some of the same movies to be 100% sure but I’ve watched a full movie now after the firmware update and I have come to a few conclusions. E-shift has been tweaked or they done something with the optics because there’s less pixelation and everything appears smoother without losing any of its crispness. Definitely brighter and as I already mentioned though I think the motion is a bit better though the jury is still undecided on that one as this might vary from movie to movie.
> 
> 
> 
> IMHO this is a better machine now than the one I bought to begin with and if I was ever considering a replacement any time soon those thoughts have properly vanished.


I am so jealous!! Can't wait for USA to receive the firmware update. Did the firmware change any of your custom picture settings? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## spiroh

Can you downgrade the firmware if needed? I was thinking of trying out the new firmware and eventually update to the one that is published in the US site when ready.


----------



## biglen

I have my 5050 mounted in a box, in the back wall. I put a digital thermometer in the box, just to see the temps in there. It's reading 90°, so is that too hot? I was going to install one of these to keep it cooler, if need be. 


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_lCt0EbHHJ26K3

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Psylocke

Luminated67 said:


> If you are expecting TV levels of HDR from a projector it isn’t going to happen unfortunately, even the JVC N-series can’t compete, you need to readjust your expectations.


Please don't misunderstand me. I am not expecting TV (Especially OLED) levels of HDR quality. I know the limitations on that. I just want the Dolby Vision movies and HDR movies in Apple TV to look as close to the same quality of colour and HDR as I am seeing with my Panasonic UB9000.

I may get the HDFury Vertex2 to play with the LLDV DV hack/ tweak. It is supposed to make a big difference.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am so jealous!! Can't wait for USA to receive the firmware update. Did the firmware change any of your custom picture settings?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I don’t think it’s changed anything but I do think I will need it calibrated as it’s definitely brighter, as I said I need to revisit some of the movies I’ve already watched but I get the feeling things are different, stuff like the e-shift look different and at the moment though unsure the colours look more vibrant, this might be a side effect of added brightness though. I
I am unsure about the motion though, I watched a couple of Blurays one briefly to just see how it looked and today a full movie, on that brief watch which was different movie I honestly thought it looked better but on Avengers Age of Ulton it didn’t look any different than before. The problem is you are scrutinising everything in such detail you might think you are seeing things that mightn’t be there. 

I think to give a definitive answer I really need to watch a few movies I’ve recently watched to see if all of this is in my head but as it stand at the moment I do reckon both brightness and e-shift look better.


----------



## Luminated67

Psylocke said:


> Please don't misunderstand me. I am not expecting TV (Especially OLED) levels of HDR quality. I know the limitations on that. I just want the Dolby Vision movies and HDR movies in Apple TV to look as close to the same quality of colour and HDR as I am seeing with my Panasonic UB9000.
> 
> I may get the HDFury Vertex2 to play with the LLDV DV hack/ tweak. It is supposed to make a big difference.


Ok now I understand 👍

I’m not a streaming person due to internet speed limitations but I do know that UHD Blurays generally have far more data stored on them than what you will get from streaming, don’t know if this will affect things like HDR etc


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I don’t think it’s changed anything but I do think I will need it calibrated as it’s definitely brighter, as I said I need to revisit some of the movies I’ve already watched but I get the feeling things are different, stuff like the e-shift look different and at the moment though unsure the colours look more vibrant, this might be a side effect of added brightness though. I
> 
> I am unsure about the motion though, I watched a couple of Blurays one briefly to just see how it looked and today a full movie, on that brief watch which was different movie I honestly thought it looked better but on Avengers Age of Ulton it didn’t look any different than before. The problem is you are scrutinising everything in such detail you might think you are seeing things that mightn’t be there.
> 
> 
> 
> I think to give a definitive answer I really need to watch a few movies I’ve recently watched to see if all of this is in my head but as it stand at the moment I do reckon both brightness and e-shift look better.


Thank you for your detailed reply it is greatly appreciated. I'm waiting to hear your further Impressions upon more content that you are familiar with once you have had more time but your initial Impressions have me really excited about this firmware update.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I have my 5050 mounted in a box, in the back wall. I put a digital thermometer in the box, just to see the temps in there. It's reading 90°, so is that too hot? I was going to install one of these to keep it cooler, if need be.
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_lCt0EbHHJ26K3
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I don't think that temperature will do any harm but cooler temperatures are always better for the longevity of any electronic device

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> I don't think that temperature will do any harm but cooler temperatures are always better for the longevity of any electronic device
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks! I went ahead and ordered the fan. I'll feel better knowing it's running cooler. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## VinnieB

Just got my 6040ub refurb today. Can't wait to switch out my 5030ub.


----------



## dkcinema

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am so jealous!! Can't wait for USA to receive the firmware update. Did the firmware change any of your custom picture settings?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I feel like I might take the change and do this upgrade.

I mean you think Epson would not allow a firmware to go through if it's not compatible with that model right lol?

Would they really allow customer's to accidentally apply a wrong firmware and cause permanent damage to their projector?


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> I need to watch some of the same movies to be 100% sure but I’ve watched a full movie now after the firmware update and I have come to a few conclusions. E-shift has been tweaked or they done something with the optics because there’s less pixelation and everything appears smoother without losing any of its crispness. Definitely brighter and as I already mentioned though I think the motion is a bit better though the jury is still undecided on that one as this might vary from movie to movie.
> 
> 
> 
> IMHO this is a better machine now than the one I bought to begin with and if I was ever considering a replacement any time soon those thoughts have properly vanished.


 Thankyou I will try to share my impressions. I would like to address Psylocke as his statement about seeing red threw me off and streaming. I believe he meant cyan if so I understand what he was trying to say. As the compression when streaming causes colors(that can't be decoded to go cyan)with 1.01 firmware). That has been addressed with 1.03 firmware. Other members have complained about this and I dismissed this as their error but with closer examination I had it too! I know you don't stream but I mentioned this as the color and gamma tables have also been adjusted with 1.03 as well! Did you notice when you raise color it does not get over saturated as with 1.01. Also as far as motion I will State it is better or as good as whats in the decoding of the movie not to be confused with other projectors that over sample or add frame interpolation. Brightness and hdr slider they didn't give us a new lamp lol. But I swear I can see more with greater refinement. Anything under 7 was really unusable for me. Now with 1.03 except for black levels I can drop down to 10 and get a hdr experience that rivals my oled. Some may say dark but in a light controlled room with this level of refinement now with 1.03 I have to say loose the light and you will find the glory. They have some underwater scenes of the movie of aqua man that used to take me out of the movie. Went dark and now the underwater scenes compete with the out of water scenes. And sorry for the long babble just trying to cover 1.03. Biglen see what you started! 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## VinnieB

covsound1 said:


> Thankyou I will try to share my impressions. I would like to address Psylocke as his statement about seeing red threw me off and streaming. I believe he meant cyan if so I understand what he was trying to say. As the compression when streaming causes colors(that can't be decoded to go cyan)with 1.01 firmware). That has been addressed with 1.03 firmware. Other members have complained about this and I dismissed this as their error but with closer examination I had it too! I know you don't stream but I mentioned this as the color and gamma tables have also been adjusted with 1.03 as well! Did you notice when you raise color it does not get over saturated as with 1.01. Also as far as motion I will State it is better or as good as whats in the decoding of the movie not to be confused with other projectors that over sample or add frame interpolation. Brightness and hdr slider they didn't give us a new lamp lol. But I swear I can see more with greater refinement. Anything under 7 was really unusable for me. Now with 1.03 except for black levels I can drop down to 10 and get a hdr experience that rivals my oled. Some may say dark but in a light controlled room with this level of refinement now with 1.03 I have to say loose the light and you will find the glory. They have some underwater scenes of the movie of aqua man that used to take me out of the movie. Went dark and now the underwater scenes compete with the out of water scenes. And sorry for the long babble just trying to cover 1.03. Biglen see what you started!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Where can I get 1.03?


----------



## VinnieB

covsound1 said:


> Thankyou I will try to share my impressions. I would like to address Psylocke as his statement about seeing red threw me off and streaming. I believe he meant cyan if so I understand what he was trying to say. As the compression when streaming causes colors(that can't be decoded to go cyan)with 1.01 firmware). That has been addressed with 1.03 firmware. Other members have complained about this and I dismissed this as their error but with closer examination I had it too! I know you don't stream but I mentioned this as the color and gamma tables have also been adjusted with 1.03 as well! Did you notice when you raise color it does not get over saturated as with 1.01. Also as far as motion I will State it is better or as good as whats in the decoding of the movie not to be confused with other projectors that over sample or add frame interpolation. Brightness and hdr slider they didn't give us a new lamp lol. But I swear I can see more with greater refinement. Anything under 7 was really unusable for me. Now with 1.03 except for black levels I can drop down to 10 and get a hdr experience that rivals my oled. Some may say dark but in a light controlled room with this level of refinement now with 1.03 I have to say loose the light and you will find the glory. They have some underwater scenes of the movie of aqua man that used to take me out of the movie. Went dark and now the underwater scenes compete with the out of water scenes. And sorry for the long babble just trying to cover 1.03. Biglen see what you started!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I found Firmware 1.09/1.04 for PowerLite Pro Cinema 4040/5040UB/5040UBe, 6040UB.


----------



## VinnieB

Ok so after talking with Epson, the most recent version is 1.14


----------



## macmanjpc

Hey all. Does anyone else experience image shake with heavy LFE scenes? Any suggestions on how to reduce or prevent this from happening? My projector is mounted in a solid ceiling-mounted box located in a utility room behind my viewing room with a cutout in the common wall to facilitate the lens and airflow grilles.

Cheers.


----------



## covsound1

macmanjpc said:


> Hey all. Does anyone else experience image shake with heavy LFE scenes? Any suggestions on how to reduce or prevent this from happening? My projector is mounted in a solid ceiling-mounted box located in a utility room behind my viewing room with a cutout in the common wall to facilitate the lens and airflow grilles.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers.


You bring back the memories when I had my sony mounted to the ceiling! I had to turn off the LFE! I have heard of butt shakers wind machines and mist maker's. But video earthquake whole nother level. Looks like you will have to find a better way to mount your pj. Yes sometimes even if you find the beam that can shake too. Especially when you putting out bass under 23 hz. Mounted face down using the weight of the pj best way to protect the unit Granted whatever you sit in it on his solid to begin with. Good luck.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Psylocke

covsound1 said:


> Thankyou I will try to share my impressions. I would like to address Psylocke as his statement about seeing red threw me off and streaming. I believe he meant cyan if so I understand what he was trying to say. As the compression when streaming causes colors(that can't be decoded to go cyan)with 1.01 firmware). That has been addressed with 1.03 firmware. Other members have complained about this and I dismissed this as their error but with closer examination I had it too! I know you don't stream but I mentioned this as the color and gamma tables have also been adjusted with 1.03 as well! Did you notice when you raise color it does not get over saturated as with 1.01. Also as far as motion I will State it is better or as good as whats in the decoding of the movie not to be confused with other projectors that over sample or add frame interpolation. Brightness and hdr slider they didn't give us a new lamp lol. But I swear I can see more with greater refinement. Anything under 7 was really unusable for me. Now with 1.03 except for black levels I can drop down to 10 and get a hdr experience that rivals my oled. Some may say dark but in a light controlled room with this level of refinement now with 1.03 I have to say loose the light and you will find the glory. They have some underwater scenes of the movie of aqua man that used to take me out of the movie. Went dark and now the underwater scenes compete with the out of water scenes. And sorry for the long babble just trying to cover 1.03. Biglen see what you started!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes you are correct the colour haze on teh ATV with Digital Cinema filter engaged is more Cyan and not red. 

It sounds like 1.03 might be what I am looking for. Why is it taking so long to get in North America.


----------



## covsound1

VinnieB said:


> I found Firmware 1.09/1.04 for PowerLite Pro Cinema 4040/5040UB/5040UBe, 6040UB.


I still own my 5040. I believe the last firmware update I did was 1.0 4. I usually I kept mine in auto bright one with super white on to address the some of the hard clipping issues. If they are up too 1.09 I am sure they have already address the a gamma and at the contrast issues just like what I have in the 5050 with the 1.03 update. And members that can get one at the price point now it's one of the best bargains on Earth.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

VinnieB said:


> Ok so after talking with Epson, the most recent version is 1.14


Epson front line customer service personnel have no clue. If they told me it was sunny outside I would put on a raincoat and take my umbrella. I unfortunately have more experience with Epson first line of defense than probably anyone in this thread. I will play along though did they show you a place that lists the most recent firmware versions? Your previous post made no mention of the Epson 5050/6050. So which projector are you talking about? Trust me Epson customer support is not the resource for correct information.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> You bring back the memories when I had my sony mounted to the ceiling! I had to turn off the LFE! I have heard of butt shakers wind machines and mist maker's. But video earthquake whole nother level. Looks like you will have to find a better way to mount your pj. Yes sometimes even if you find the beam that can shake too. Especially when you putting out bass under 23 hz. Mounted face down using the weight of the pj best way to protect the unit Granted whatever you sit in it on his solid to begin with. Good luck.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


You have to decouple the vibrations from what you have the box mounted onto. 

https://www.soundaway.com/RSIC-DC04X2-p/13005.htm

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

Psylocke said:


> Yes you are correct the colour haze on teh ATV with Digital Cinema filter engaged is more Cyan and not red.
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like 1.03 might be what I am looking for. Why is it taking so long to get in North America.


You are not the 1st and there was one member that posted a picture and I just said what the h*** is going on. I live in the USA and I took a chance by downloading the UK firmware update. I felt comfortable as I have also done this with my 5040 in the past. Skylarlove1999 Brought up a point that I never considered and that was the voltage difference between the countries. So far I have no problems or had any in the past. And I respect members for wanting to wait. The DV idea with the HD fury sounds interesting and something I wanted to explore. If you jump on one maybe I will too?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sorny

macmanjpc said:


> Hey all. Does anyone else experience image shake with heavy LFE scenes? Any suggestions on how to reduce or prevent this from happening? My projector is mounted in a solid ceiling-mounted box located in a utility room behind my viewing room with a cutout in the common wall to facilitate the lens and airflow grilles.
> 
> Cheers.


I have no issues with my 5050 during crazy LFE, and I run BEQ, 4 subs, and am >118dB at 14Hz in my room... Projector mounted to ceiling on an Epson universal projector mount, with only 2 lag screws into the ceiling joist.

https://epson.com/Accessories/Proje...ersal-Projector-Mount-(ELPMBPJG)/p/V12H808001

Rated capacity is 25lbs, and by my reckoning, my 5050 is right at the limit of what it is supposed to support.
My screen hangs from 2 points, also attached to the ceiling, and no shake there either.

Now, I'm in a concrete bunker of a basement, and only have 12' span on the joists in the ceiling in my 1950's vintage house, so construction quality may be different (read as is going to be very different) from new construction. 

If you're getting shake, I'd look into some sorbothane pucks to support the projector or it's box to help isolate it.


----------



## VinnieB

skylarlove1999 said:


> Epson front line customer service personnel have no clue. If they told me it was sunny outside I would put on a raincoat and take my umbrella. I unfortunately have more experience with Epson first line of defense than probably anyone in this thread. I will play along though did they show you a place that lists the most recent firmware versions? Your previous post made no mention of the Epson 5050/6050. So which projector are you talking about? Trust me Epson customer support is not the resource for correct information.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I got the 6040ub and it did ship with V114 already installed. 

Anybody know why this projector won't support HDR from the Xbox One X? I'm a little disappointed.


----------



## skylarlove1999

VinnieB said:


> I got the 6040ub and it did ship with V114 already installed.
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody know why this projector won't support HDR from the Xbox One X? I'm a little disappointed.


You AR in the 50/50 owners thread you're welcome to ask your questions here but you might have better luck in the 50 40 thread because the 50 40 only has a 10 gigabit per second capability and and if you are streaming games from the Xbox One X it's possible your 5040 doesn't support the streaming capacity that the Xbox one needs

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## VinnieB

skylarlove1999 said:


> You AR in the 50/50 owners thread you're welcome to ask your questions here but you might have better luck in the 50 40 thread because the 50 40 only has a 10 gigabit per second capability and and if you are streaming games from the Xbox One X it's possible your 5040 doesn't support the streaming capacity that the Xbox one needs
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Oh, my fault. I thought this was the 6040 thread. I thought I read somewhere the the 6040 uses 18gbps 2.0a?


----------



## jebusfreek666

I am in the middle of redoing my living room theater, and have settled on either getting the 5050ub or 6050ub. I am currently wiring up power to the area where the projector will be mounted. After that I will be mounting the screen. My issue is, I can not figure out how far down from the ceiling I have to mount the projector. The screen will be 120". The top edge of the screen frame will be 22" down from the ceiling, with the screen being 25.5" down (3.5" frame). If anyone can tell me the range of how high I can mount the projector I would really appreciate it. The manual is a bit unclear. The higer the better, as I have no choice but to place it above a window and would prefer it not block part of it. Thanks.


----------



## reechings

VinnieB said:


> Oh, my fault. I thought this was the 6040 thread. I thought I read somewhere the the 6040 uses 18gbps 2.0a?


Unfortunately you're stuck with 10gbps with the 5040/6040. That is one of the big improvements between them and the 5050/6050 and a main reason I'm not buying a refurb 5040 and waiting to get a 5050 or 6050.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## VinnieB

reechings said:


> VinnieB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, my fault. I thought this was the 6040 thread. I thought I read somewhere the the 6040 uses 18gbps 2.0a?
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately you're stuck with 10gbps with the 5040/6040. That is one of the big improvements between them and the 5050/6050 and a main reason I'm not buying a refurb 5040 and waiting to get a 5050 or 6050.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ah ok. Could of swore I read the 6040ub uses 18gbps. Oh well, it's a little disappointing but I don't game on the projector, I game on a monitor but I don't have a standalone 4k HDR player atm. I don't understand why it won't even play Netflix in HDR.


----------



## rekbones

jebusfreek666 said:


> I am in the middle of redoing my living room theater, and have settled on either getting the 5050ub or 6050ub. I am currently wiring up power to the area where the projector will be mounted. After that I will be mounting the screen. My issue is, I can not figure out how far down from the ceiling I have to mount the projector. The screen will be 120". The top edge of the screen frame will be 22" down from the ceiling, with the screen being 25.5" down (3.5" frame). If anyone can tell me the range of how high I can mount the projector I would really appreciate it. The manual is a bit unclear. The higer the better, as I have no choice but to place it above a window and would prefer it not block part of it. Thanks.


The projector has +/-96% vertical shift (assuming your using 0% horizontal). It takes 50% of the shift to go from the center of the screen to the top of the screen so leaving 46% remaining to go above the screen. A 120" 16:9 screen is 59" tall so take 46% of that is the maximum # of inches the projector can be above the screen. So right around 27" is the max shift available but you need to leave room for errors in the tolerance. So it looks like you have ample room to mount at any height you want if your screen is 25.5 inches from the ceiling.


----------



## Sorny

jebusfreek666 said:


> I am in the middle of redoing my living room theater, and have settled on either getting the 5050ub or 6050ub. I am currently wiring up power to the area where the projector will be mounted. After that I will be mounting the screen. My issue is, I can not figure out how far down from the ceiling I have to mount the projector. The screen will be 120". The top edge of the screen frame will be 22" down from the ceiling, with the screen being 25.5" down (3.5" frame). If anyone can tell me the range of how high I can mount the projector I would really appreciate it. The manual is a bit unclear. The higer the better, as I have no choice but to place it above a window and would prefer it not block part of it. Thanks.


Epson 5050/6050 have enormous vertical lens shift. You've got about 95% of the vertical height of the screen in vertical shift range. That means, with a 59" screen viewable height (assuming your 120" is a 16:9), you can have projector anywhere within about 56" from the center of the screen in the vertical. Mind you, the more extreme you get with vertical lens shift, you'll lower what you can do with the horizontal shift.

You won't have any issues mounting it close to your ceiling with your described height. Assuming that you use a ceiling mount which is going to drop it a couple inches... You won't need a long extension for the mount, if that's what you were worried about. Most mounts with a short pole drop the projector around 5 inches, so you'll be good to go.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rekbones said:


> The projector has +/-96% vertical shift (assuming your using 0% horizontal). It takes 50% of the shift to go from the center of the screen to the top of the screen so leaving 46% remaining to go above the screen. A 120" 16:9 screen is 59" tall so take 46% of that is the maximum # of inches the projector can be above the screen. So right around 27" is the max shift available but you need to leave room for errors in the tolerance. So it looks like you have ample room to mount at any height you want if your screen is 25.5 inches from the ceiling.


This is great information just keep in mind how much you can do vertical shift also has to do with how much you are shifting horizontally at the same time. if you are going to be putting your projector for dead center horizontally of the screen than you don't have to worry about that at all, you can use you all of the vertical shift. but if you are going to be using some horizontal shift it will reduce the amount you can use for vertical shift.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DeuceLee

Hey guys, I'm having some 3D problems with my 5050ub and Pioneer VSXLX503...I'm trying to play 3D with movies from my computer. When I'm on the receiver's menu, I can go to 3D mode with the 5050ub. When I exit the receiver's menu and now either mirroring the PC or projecting to the screen, the 3D becomes "disabled" in the projector. Any idea what's going on? Thx...


----------



## Luminated67

OK watch something I have watched in it’s entirety ‘ Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets’.... here’s my thoughts.

I honestly don’t know what they have done but colours are more vivid than before IMHO and whether it’s the increase in brightness but contrast looks to have improved too though I couldn’t see how this is even possible but purely based on what my eyes are telling me it looks like that. 

Still convinced e-shift has improved, the image overall has a polished look to it. Only thing I don’t think is different is motion, I do think it differs from movie to movie with some better than others.

Overall I’m a happy bunny.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> OK watch something I have watched in it’s entirety ‘ Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets’.... here’s my thoughts.
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly don’t know what they have done but colours are more vivid than before IMHO and whether it’s the increase in brightness but contrast looks to have improved too though I could see how this is even possible but purely based on what my eyes are telling me it looks like that.
> 
> 
> 
> Still convinced e-shift has improved, the image overall has a polished look to it. Only thing I don’t think is different is motion, I do think it differs from movie to movie with some better than others.
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I’m a happy bunny.


Do you have a 5050, or 6050 ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> OK watch something I have watched in it’s entirety ‘ Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets’.... here’s my thoughts.
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly don’t know what they have done but colours are more vivid than before IMHO and whether it’s the increase in brightness but contrast looks to have improved too though I could see how this is even possible but purely based on what my eyes are telling me it looks like that.
> 
> 
> 
> Still convinced e-shift has improved, the image overall has a polished look to it. Only thing I don’t think is different is motion, I do think it differs from movie to movie with some better than others.
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I’m a happy bunny.


Thanks for sharing. Just waiting on EPSON USA. Super excited.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Do you have a 5050, or 6050 ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


The UK version TW9400

Just a few of images


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> The UK version TW9400


Is that equal to the 6050?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Is that equal to the 6050?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I think so, spec on both models seems to be the same.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> The UK version TW9400
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few of images


I love when you post pictures. They are always so vibrant and detailed. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> I think so, spec on both models seems to be the same.


I'm just wondering if the new firmware, if it comes out in the US, will improve the things on my 5050, that it did on yours. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## spiroh

slothv said:


> Hello all. I ordered a 6050 back in mid-December. The retailer is telling me that it's on national back-order. Anyone have any inside info or has anyone received a 6050 recently and when did you order? My 8700ub is still going strong, but I'm looking forward to the upgrade!





Luminated67 said:


> I think so, spec on both models seems to be the same.


Luminated, What movie are the screenshots from?


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> I love when you post pictures. They are always so vibrant and detailed.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I spend time making sure what I post is as close as what I see with my eyes on the screen. The colours and the polished look of the images is the first things I noticed yesterday.


----------



## Luminated67

spiroh said:


> Luminated, What movie are the screenshots from?


Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> I spend time making sure what I post is as close as what I see with my eyes on the screen. The colours and the polished look of the images is the first things I noticed yesterday.


So jealous that you got this firmware update!! Are there any firmware release notes? 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

@Luminated67, is that from the 4k/HDR disc or 1080p blu-ray?

Anyone here upgrade and have the calibration equipment to do a before and after on their setup? It would be nice to know what Epson stated had changed.


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> So jealous that you got this firmware update!! Are there any firmware release notes?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Where does it usually say stuff like that, would it be in the firmware download file?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> Where does it usually say stuff like that, would it be in the firmware download file?


It should be on the page yes where you got the download from it would be great if you post that maybe I can find it if you can't LOL

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

skylarlove1999 said:


> It should be on the page yes where you got the download from it would be great if you post that maybe I can find it if you can't LOL
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I downloaded and applied to my US 6050ub last night. No issues at all and I agree, the picture has improved and seems more vibrant. There are no release notes available that I am aware of that I could find which is disappointing.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

plain fan said:


> @Luminated67, is that from the 4k/HDR disc or 1080p blu-ray?
> 
> Anyone here upgrade and have the calibration equipment to do a before and after on their setup? It would be nice to know what Epson stated had changed.


It’s 1080P as is most of my collection, despite what others might feel I personally reckon the Epson is best doing the upscaling to 4K than the Bluray Player which is why I have two players, a Sony U700 for all my 1080P discs set to 1080P resolution and a Panasonic UB420 for UHD set time 4K but I’ve also switch it to SDR BT2020.

Another wee thing I would like others who have done the firmware to try, at the end of the movie there’s the credits where you usually see the iris pumping when dynamic iris is turned on, after the movie I noticed there didn’t seem the same dramatic change with the contrast between credits I usually see... does this mean the iris isn’t moving as much or has the contrast increase so I’m seeing less change?

All subtle but I’m sure it’s different.

Took this image from the back of the room, btw this is the black borders as I see them. 👍


----------



## --Sclaws

FWIW, I just applied the firmware as well...all went fine.


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> It’s 1080P as is most of my collection, despite what others might feel I personally reckon the Epson is best doing the upscaling to 4K than the Bluray Player which is why I have two players, a Sony U700 for all my 1080P discs set to 1080P resolution and a Panasonic UB420 for UHD set time 4K but I’ve also switch it to SDR BT2020.
> 
> 
> 
> Another wee thing I would like others who have done the firmware to try, at the end of the movie there’s the credits where you usually see the iris pumping when dynamic iris is turned on, after the movie I noticed there didn’t seem the same dramatic change with the contrast between credits I usually see... does this mean the iris isn’t moving as much or has the contrast increase so I’m seeing less change?
> 
> 
> 
> All subtle but I’m sure it’s different.
> 
> 
> 
> Took this image from the back of the room, btw this is the black borders as I see them.


 Happy to see others take that plung as I am on day 4 with no adverse affects . Again I will state if you had your projector calibrated or just want to do wait for the us version that is fine. 
I differ from you only in the aspect I will push the image enhancement to 5 if the movie allows me. But I feel alike when it comes to 1080p. When I first purchased the panny 420 it did a great job with 4k but I notice it also added a mosquito like noise to the image when upscale 1080p.very noticeable when I push enhancements.
When I changed players the sonyx800 I felt the picture was more refined and pure at just 1080p. The added bonus i let the projector do the up conversion added enhancements to taste and bang.A picture that rivals the best of them.
I have to agree with others your pictures are a treat . I would like to post some but I really don't feel my cell phone takes good pics. What do you take your pictures with?
Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

^iPhone 11pro


----------



## Cypres0099

*What's the Deal with Lens Memory?
*
I've had my 5050 UB since October, but I recently got a screen made with custom dimensions so I could watch 16:9 content at 120", but also get a little bigger pictures for scope content. All I have to do is save the two different lens positions in the memory and select as needed.

So far I LOVE having these custom dimensions and the black bars on the sides (for 16:9) and the top/bottom (for scope). T

The only issue is that the Lens Memory function is not working very well. Often the image is positioned 2-3 inches to the left or the right where the saved position should be. I'll switch back and forth between Lens 1 and Lens 2 and it's different almost every time.

Is lens memory on the 5050ub that crappy? Or is something wrong?










Yes, the bottom of the screen was damaged in shipment...


----------



## Luminated67

Cypres0099 said:


> *What's the Deal with Lens Memory?
> *
> I've had my 5050 UB since October, but I recently got a screen made with custom dimensions so I could watch 16:9 content at 120", but also get a little bigger pictures for scope content. All I have to do is save the two different lens positions in the memory and select as needed.
> 
> So far I LOVE having these custom dimensions and the black bars on the sides (for 16:9) and the top/bottom (for scope). T
> 
> The only issue is that the Lens Memory function is not working very well. Often the image is positioned 2-3 inches to the left or the right where the saved position should be. I'll switch back and forth between Lens 1 and Lens 2 and it's different almost every time.
> 
> Is lens memory on the 5050ub that crappy? Or is something wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the bottom of the screen was damaged in shipment...


Mine always hits the vertical position perfectly but the horizontal is about 1/4”-1/2” out. What I have been told is that when setting it up and doing the movements you want to get as close to final position be that vertical or horizontal in the first go.


----------



## biglen

--Sclaws said:


> FWIW, I just applied the firmware as well...all went fine.


To a 5050 or 6050 ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> I'm just wondering if the new firmware, if it comes out in the US, will improve the things on my 5050, that it did on yours.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 I would give Kevin a call. He would be excited to see what improvements it brings and what he could add to his calibrations. Oh and you can load up round 2 of questions! I would be fascinated with the results .

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Fox1966

So, have any of you that have downloaded the new firmware noticed any changes while watching 4k HDR discs? Does the brightness increase apply across the board to all modes? I hope this comes out in the US soon! You all have me excited


----------



## LIPLASMA

Fox1966 said:


> So, have any of you that have downloaded the new firmware noticed any changes while watching 4k HDR discs? Does the brightness increase apply across the board to all modes? I hope this comes out in the US soon! You all have me excited


I can say the biggest difference I can see is the increased brightness with the filter engaged compared to prior to the update.

Here are two shots I took today after the update I did yesterday. This is Netflix HDR using digital cinema. I know from the pics its impossible to tell but the brightness is noticeably better in digital cinema than before. For reference, I watch almost all of my HDR content with it set to digital cinema. I can see allot more POP in the HDR now.


----------



## Fox1966

LIPLASMA said:


> I can say the biggest difference I can see is the increased brightness with the filter engaged compared to prior to the update.
> 
> Here are two shots I took today after the update I did yesterday. This is Netflix HDR using digital cinema. I know from the pics its impossible to tell but the brightness is noticeably better in digital cinema than before. For reference, I watch almost all of my HDR content with it set to digital cinema. I can see allot more POP in the HDR now.


Nice!! Is this using medium or high lamp?


----------



## jebusfreek666

rekbones said:


> The projector has +/-96% vertical shift (assuming your using 0% horizontal). It takes 50% of the shift to go from the center of the screen to the top of the screen so leaving 46% remaining to go above the screen. A 120" 16:9 screen is 59" tall so take 46% of that is the maximum # of inches the projector can be above the screen. So right around 27" is the max shift available but you need to leave room for errors in the tolerance. So it looks like you have ample room to mount at any height you want if your screen is 25.5 inches from the ceiling.





Sorny said:


> Epson 5050/6050 have enormous vertical lens shift. You've got about 95% of the vertical height of the screen in vertical shift range. That means, with a 59" screen viewable height (assuming your 120" is a 16:9), you can have projector anywhere within about 56" from the center of the screen in the vertical. Mind you, the more extreme you get with vertical lens shift, you'll lower what you can do with the horizontal shift.
> 
> You won't have any issues mounting it close to your ceiling with your described height. Assuming that you use a ceiling mount which is going to drop it a couple inches... You won't need a long extension for the mount, if that's what you were worried about. Most mounts with a short pole drop the projector around 5 inches, so you'll be good to go.





skylarlove1999 said:


> This is great information just keep in mind how much you can do vertical shift also has to do with how much you are shifting horizontally at the same time. if you are going to be putting your projector for dead center horizontally of the screen than you don't have to worry about that at all, you can use you all of the vertical shift. but if you are going to be using some horizontal shift it will reduce the amount you can use for vertical shift.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you all. This was very useful info. Wish the manual was this clear!


----------



## LIPLASMA

Fox1966 said:


> Nice!! Is this using medium or high lamp?


This is with high lamp setting and I have the 6050ub.


----------



## Luminated67

LIPLASMA said:


> I can say the biggest difference I can see is the increased brightness with the filter engaged compared to prior to the update.
> 
> Here are two shots I took today after the update I did yesterday. This is Netflix HDR using digital cinema. I know from the pics its impossible to tell but the brightness is noticeably better in digital cinema than before. For reference, I watch almost all of my HDR content with it set to digital cinema. I can see allot more POP in the HDR now.


You mention more pop from the image with HDR but it’s across the board, SDR has also improved. Is this simply an increase in brightness or is there other trickery at work.... I think so but can’t put my finger on what it is.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Alright enough with the hyperbole, you guys are breaking me down here.   

I have all the required Calibration gear and can take pre-post reads to see what has changed (once the USA firmware is released ).

- Jason


----------



## BIC2

rekbones said:


> The projector has +/-96% vertical shift (assuming your using 0% horizontal). It takes 50% of the shift to go from the center of the screen to the top of the screen so leaving 46% remaining to go above the screen. A 120" 16:9 screen is 59" tall so take 46% of that is the maximum # of inches the projector can be above the screen. So right around 27" is the max shift available but you need to leave room for errors in the tolerance. So it looks like you have ample room to mount at any height you want if your screen is 25.5 inches from the ceiling.





Sorny said:


> Epson 5050/6050 have enormous vertical lens shift. You've got about 95% of the vertical height of the screen in vertical shift range. That means, with a 59" screen viewable height (assuming your 120" is a 16:9), you can have projector anywhere within about 56" from the center of the screen in the vertical. Mind you, the more extreme you get with vertical lens shift, you'll lower what you can do with the horizontal shift.
> 
> You won't have any issues mounting it close to your ceiling with your described height. Assuming that you use a ceiling mount which is going to drop it a couple inches... You won't need a long extension for the mount, if that's what you were worried about. Most mounts with a short pole drop the projector around 5 inches, so you'll be good to go.


Sorry, but don't think I'm keeping up with the math. I have a 130" wide x 73" high 16:9. 16'-6" throw. The ceiling is 10 ft (120"); top of screen image is 98" high or 22" below the ceiling. I thought the 6050 Chief mount, which came with something like a 3" or 6" pipe, would be insufficient. I bought the adjustable Chief extension (2'-3', I think). I have it set so my lens is 36" below the ceiling and 14" (or 19%) _*below*_ the top of the screen. I'm centered horizontally. 

Projector Central says Vertical Offset is +37". Also says lens can shift 70" up from the top and 70" down from the bottom. I don't understand either of these specs.

Ideally, where should it be vertically from the top of the screen? Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DaGamePimp said:


> Alright enough with the hyperbole, you guys are breaking me down here.
> 
> 
> 
> I have all the required Calibration gear and can take pre-post reads to see what has changed (once the USA firmware is released ).
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


Thank you kind sir that would be awesome

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sorny

BIC2 said:


> Sorry, but don't think I'm keeping up with the math. I have a 130" wide x 73" high 16:9. 16'-6" throw. The ceiling is 10 ft (120"); top of screen image is 98" high or 22" below the ceiling. I thought the 6050 Chief mount, which came with something like a 3" or 6" pipe, would be insufficient. I bought the adjustable Chief extension (2'-3', I think). I have it set so my lens is 36" below the ceiling and 14" (or 19%) _*below*_ the top of the screen. I'm centered horizontally.
> 
> Projector Central says Vertical Offset is +37". Also says lens can shift 70" up from the top and 70" down from the bottom. I don't understand either of these specs.
> 
> Ideally, where should it be vertically from the top of the screen? Thanks.


Short answer: mount projector somewhere between floor and ceiling in your room and you'll be fine. 

Long answer:
Your screen is 73" high, so center is roughly 37" from top of viewable area of the screen. That's what projector central calculator is telling you with the "vertical offset"; it's saying center of screen to lens is 37". When it says, you can go 70" up or down, it's saying you can go 70" up or down from the center of the screen.

Your screen is 22" below the ceiling, center of screen is 37" below that, so add those and you're at 59". You have 70" of shift. 70 is bigger than 59, so you can go anywhere in the room vertically since you don't need horizontal shift. 

As to the "ideal" location for the projector, I'd say as high as you can go so it's not a hazard to walk around in the room. I'd use the 3" pipe on your mount and get the projector as high as possible in room so as to not be a head-bump hazard.


----------



## BIC2

Sorny said:


> Short answer: mount projector somewhere between floor and ceiling in your room and you'll be fine.
> 
> Long answer:
> Your screen is 73" high, so center is roughly 37" from top of viewable area of the screen. That's what projector central calculator is telling you with the "vertical offset"; it's saying center of screen to lens is 37". When it says, you can go 70" up or down, it's saying you can go 70" up or down from the center of the screen.
> 
> Your screen is 22" below the ceiling, center of screen is 37" below that, so add those and you're at 59". You have 70" of shift. 70 is bigger than 59, so you can go anywhere in the room vertically since you don't need horizontal shift.
> 
> As to the "ideal" location for the projector, I'd say as high as you can go so it's not a hazard to walk around in the room. I'd use the 3" pipe on your mount and get the projector as high as possible in room so as to not be a head-bump hazard.


Head-banging & noise aren't issues. If it wasn't over the middle seat in the second row on a riser, a six-footer could walk under if need be, but since it's directly over a seat, one can't even walk under it. What I don't understand is Chris from Seymour AV screens said the projectors are designed for optimum performance mounted at the top of the the screen (or bottom of screen for table mount). Intuitively, it seems mounted in the center of the screen is optimal; theoretically, there would be no lens shift. I think Chris is saying there's no lens shift if mounted at top of screen.


----------



## hungarianhc

Hey All,

I'm getting cold feet on a 5050UB + Black Diamond screen purchase. I'm concerned that day time TV viewing won't be great. I'm concerned the black diamond screen won't live up to the hype. I'm concerned that the 5050UB won't have a reasonable gaming experience. Sigh... I'm just nervous - have never owned a projector before. Can anyone help me out and talk some sense into me one way or another? Either FOR or AGAINST? It's a living room setup - this will be my primary TV in addition night time theater setup.


----------



## rekbones

BIC2 said:


> Head-banging & noise aren't issues. If it wasn't over the middle seat in the second row on a riser, a six-footer could walk under if need be, but since it's directly over a seat, one can't even walk under it. What I don't understand is Chris from Seymour AV screens said the projectors are designed for optimum performance mounted at the top of the the screen (or bottom of screen for table mount). Intuitively, it seems mounted in the center of the screen is optimal; theoretically, there would be no lens shift. I think Chris is saying there's no lens shift if mounted at top of screen.


Physical lens shift will have little effect on PQ especially with the 5050/6050 with its fairly high quality lens except possibly at the extreme positions. If you have an ALR screen projector position may have an impact in relation to your seated position so follow the recommendations of the screen manufacture. Use this calculator as I think it is a lot easier to understand projector positioning and lens shift.
http://www.reviewtranslations.com/projection_calculator_en.html (Use the 5040 if the 5050 isn't in the list as they are the same)


----------



## rekbones

hungarianhc said:


> Hey All,
> 
> I'm getting cold feed on a 5050UB + Black Diamond screen purchase. I'm concerned that day time TV viewing won't be great. I'm concerned the black diamond screen won't live up to the hype. I'm concerned that the 5050UB won't have a reasonable gaming experience. Sigh... I'm just nervous - have never owned a projector before. Can anyone help me out and talk some sense into me one way or another? Either FOR or AGAINST? It's a living room setup - this will be my primary TV in addition night time theater setup.


It all has to do with light control. The Black Diamond ALR screen should help as long as you don't have ambient light coming from the same direction as the projector. The Black Diamond is one of the top ALR screens and many swear by them but others hate them. Different people have different tolerances for what they consider is a watchable image. Bright punchy images like sports, TV news or most gaming can tolerate more ambient light then your typical move with dark low contrast scenes.


----------



## LIPLASMA

DaGamePimp said:


> Alright enough with the hyperbole, you guys are breaking me down here.
> 
> I have all the required Calibration gear and can take pre-post reads to see what has changed (once the USA firmware is released ).
> 
> - Jason


I am in the US and used the UK version 102 for the last year before upgrading using the 103 UK version now. The reason I didn't switch to the US version of 102 when it was released was that it was the same file size as the one I was using. I can understand your trepidation, but just from my experience, there is no difference between the UK version and the US version.


----------



## Cypres0099

Luminated67 said:


> Mine always hits the vertical position perfectly but the horizontal is about 1/4”-1/2” out. What I have been told is that when setting it up and doing the movements you want to get as close to final position be that vertical or horizontal in the first go.


Thanks for chiming in! I'm not sure exactly what you mean. Do you mean that you shouldn't press the button multiple times to get there, but rather hold it down and release to get as close as possible and then just a couple more button presses after that?


----------



## Luminated67

Cypres0099 said:


> Thanks for chiming in! I'm not sure exactly what you mean. Do you mean that you shouldn't press the button multiple times to get there, but rather hold it down and release to get as close as possible and then just a couple more button presses after that?


Bingo, according to Epson this is the desired method for the lens memory to work best.


----------



## noob00224

hungarianhc said:


> Hey All,
> 
> I'm getting cold feet on a 5050UB + Black Diamond screen purchase. I'm concerned that day time TV viewing won't be great. I'm concerned the black diamond screen won't live up to the hype. I'm concerned that the 5050UB won't have a reasonable gaming experience. Sigh... I'm just nervous - have never owned a projector before. Can anyone help me out and talk some sense into me one way or another? Either FOR or AGAINST? It's a living room setup - this will be my primary TV in addition night time theater setup.


It depends on the source/intensity of ambient light and brightness of content. Tested these scenarios:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2122202-aeon-elite-screen-cinegrey-3d-9.html#post58809924

Different ALR screens have different resistance to light from different directions, i.e. from the sides vs. top/bottom, or both:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/am...htm?remove_compare_list=10296&article_id=1493

With angular ALR screens there must be no light from the same direction as the projector.

These screens also require for the projector to be placed at a certain distance to avoid artifacts. The general recommendation is ~1.9x throw ratio (screen width). 

What is the screen size, or what is the seating distance?

For projector, the Epsons are nice, but a better option would be a JVC NX5. It's got dynamic HDR tone mapping vs. the Epson's static (manual slider), better blacks (if the environment allows it), and an overall better image. The Epson is brighter if uncalibrated. The NX5 is native 4K which is better if seating is close enough. Sharpness is also source dependent. You can get a B stock NX5 for the cost of a 6050UB new.


----------



## Cypres0099

Luminated67 said:


> Bingo, according to Epson this is the desired method for the lens memory to work best.


That's so weird... I'll give it a try!


----------



## Fox1966

LIPLASMA said:


> I am in the US and used the UK version 102 for the last year before upgrading using the 103 UK version now. The reason I didn't switch to the US version of 102 when it was released was that it was the same file size as the one I was using. I can understand your trepidation, but just from my experience, there is no difference between the UK version and the US version.


Where is a 102 firmware version? My new 5050 came with 101, and 101 is the latest version I see on the US Epson site...

If I can piggyback another question on to this one...how much longer does it usually take for US Epson to make new firmware available for download after it has been released in other regions?


----------



## Luminated67

Cypres0099 said:


> That's so weird... I'll give it a try!


Weird but worked for me.


----------



## BIC2

Sorny said:


> Short answer: mount projector somewhere between floor and ceiling in your room and you'll be fine.
> 
> Long answer:
> Your screen is 73" high, so center is roughly 37" from top of viewable area of the screen. That's what projector central calculator is telling you with the "vertical offset"; it's saying center of screen to lens is 37". When it says, you can go 70" up or down, it's saying you can go 70" up or down from the center of the screen.
> 
> Your screen is 22" below the ceiling, center of screen is 37" below that, so add those and you're at 59". You have 70" of shift. 70 is bigger than 59, so you can go anywhere in the room vertically since you don't need horizontal shift.
> 
> As to the "ideal" location for the projector, I'd say as high as you can go so it's not a hazard to walk around in the room. I'd use the 3" pipe on your mount and get the projector as high as possible in room so as to not be a head-bump hazard.





BIC2 said:


> Head-banging & noise aren't issues. If it wasn't over the middle seat in the second row on a riser, a six-footer could walk under if need be, but since it's directly over a seat, one can't even walk under it. What I don't understand is Chris from Seymour AV screens said the projectors are designed for optimum performance mounted at the top of the the screen (or bottom of screen for table mount). Intuitively, it seems mounted in the center of the screen is optimal; theoretically, there would be no lens shift. I think Chris is saying there's no lens shift if mounted at top of screen.





rekbones said:


> Physical lens shift will have little effect on PQ especially with the 5050/6050 with its fairly high quality lens except possibly at the extreme positions. If you have an ALR screen projector position may have an impact in relation to your seated position so follow the recommendations of the screen manufacture. Use this calculator as I think it is a lot easier to understand projector positioning and lens shift.
> http://www.reviewtranslations.com/projection_calculator_en.html (Use the 5040 if the 5050 isn't in the list as they are the same)


I used the calculator, results attached. Guess I'm using 24" of available 70" vertical shift. Is that correct? I understand there is no need to adjust my projector height although I could. I do not have an ALR screen.

I guess I can simplify my question to: for academic purposes, is the ideal vertical position midway on the screen or the top of the screen? Just trying to understand how the PJ works. Center of screen makes sense to me but I've been told top of the screen is ideal. Thanks.


----------



## rekbones

BIC2 said:


> I used the calculator, results attached. Guess I'm using 24" of available 70" vertical shift. Is that correct? I understand there is no need to adjust my projector height although I could. I do not have an ALR screen.
> 
> I guess I can simplify my question to: for academic purposes, is the ideal vertical position midway on the screen or the top of the screen? Just trying to understand how the PJ works. Center of screen makes sense to me but I've been told top of the screen is ideal. Thanks.


For most people the top of the screen, not that it effects PQ but with it low near center peoples heads may be in the way of the image or even the projector it self my block some ones view.


----------



## DaGamePimp

LIPLASMA said:


> I am in the US and used the UK version 102 for the last year before upgrading using the 103 UK version now. The reason I didn't switch to the US version of 102 when it was released was that it was the same file size as the one I was using. I can understand your trepidation, but just from my experience, there is no difference between the UK version and the US version.



I can appreciate where you are coming from, it's very possible that there is zero difference but it's also possible that there is. 

Considering the UK is PAL/DVB-T2 and we are NTSC there might be some prioritization variables.

It's also possible that Epson could void a warranty should any problems arise.

Aside from that I have a previous bad experience when using firmware from another region (I knew when I took the risk). 

- Jason


----------



## skylarlove1999

DaGamePimp said:


> I can appreciate where you are coming from, it's very possible that there is zero difference but it's also possible that there is.
> 
> 
> 
> Considering the UK is PAL/DVB-T2 and we are NTSC there might be some prioritization variables.
> 
> 
> 
> It's also possible that Epson could void a warranty should any problems arise.
> 
> 
> 
> Aside from that I have a previous bad experience when using firmware from another region (I knew when I took the risk).
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


I too am waiting for the US firmware update. I certainly am not trying to do anything that would void the warranty just like you I've been burned in the past.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> I can appreciate where you are coming from, it's very possible that there is zero difference but it's also possible that there is.
> 
> Considering the UK is PAL/DVB-T2 and we are NTSC there might be some prioritization variables.
> 
> It's also possible that Epson could void a warranty should any problems arise.
> 
> Aside from that I have a previous bad experience when using firmware from another region (I knew when I took the risk).
> 
> - Jason


 Most modern tvs and projectors do all 3 standards.It is when you buy a streamer or blue ray player you run into problems. The biggest concern would be if the firmware effects the power supply. With the 5040 i would often do the uk and when the us came out put that one in after. By time it comes to the us they often fix bugs and you get a more finished update. This goes on with uk first until they announce a new product. Example Fox 1966 asked about 1.02 which is really a more updated version of !.01 for the uk which really addressed bugs in some early production 5050.US versions never saw this and later production UK models did not need this enhanced version.


----------



## LIPLASMA

covsound1 said:


> Most modern tvs and projectors do all 3 standards.It is when you buy a streamer or blue ray player you run into problems. The biggest concern would be if the firmware effects the power supply. With the 5040 i would often do the uk and when the us came out put that one in after. By time it comes to the us they often fix bugs and you get a more finished update. This goes on with uk first until they announce a new product.


That's interesting never thought of that angle as to why they would release all of the international versions before the US.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Apparently Epson USA is unaware of the firmware update. Please do not reach out to Dave . Hopefully he will get back to me in a couple days.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

skylarlove1999 said:


> I too am waiting for the US firmware update. I certainly am not trying to do anything that would void the warranty just like you I've been burned in the past.


The potential benefits don't seem to outweigh the possibility of bricking a $3,000 projector.


----------



## jaredmwright

BIC2 said:


> The potential benefits don't seem to outweigh the possibility of bricking a $3,000 projector.


It works fine and there is no more risk of bricking it than normal with a firmware update. Mine has been just fine as have others. They most likely have a roll out by region approach is all based on support and coverage.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

The UK file and US file are identical. I confirmed this with Epson as you can see below. US website should hopefully be updated shortly.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Glad to hear I’m not going crazy and I am actually seeing a difference in image quality and I still feel that blacks are a bit better too which in turn might improve colours or the intensity of them.


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> The UK file and US file are identical. I confirmed this with Epson as you can see below. US website should hopefully be updated shortly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Does this mean you will join the party


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> Does this mean you will join the party


Yes. Hopefully tomorrow.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

Luminated67 said:


> Glad to hear I’m not going crazy and I am actually seeing a difference in image quality and I still feel that blacks are a bit better too which in turn might improve colours or the intensity of them.


So I did the update on my 6050ub yesterday and played around with it for a few hours. If I had to be honest it seemed like some people were making it seem like this update was almost night/day difference and my personal belief is that the update is nice but its very minor overall difference.

*Motion:* This is where I was hoping it would improve the most but honestly I think this was the area where the update did almost nothing. If it did do anything it feels more like placebo. I played back a few scenes where I notice the "motion judder" during panning and played it back as soon as the update was done and didn't notice any difference if any. And to clarify I don't mean judder when the frame rates don't match up, I'm just talking about the effect we see since it's running at 24fps and at certain panning speeds you notice it more since its only 24fps.

*Sharpness:* Again I didn't notice much difference. I always thought the projector was super sharp to begin with anyway and it wasn't much different after the update. It was still very sharp. If it was sharper I couldn't tell you unless I had some sort of A/B switch to compare.

*Fan noise:* Same with the fan noise too. I tried to pay attention to the fan noise with no other sounds and listened the same way after the update. Same as the sharpness, unless I had some A/B switch to compare it's hard to tell. And the most important thing is that if there is a difference I think the high fan is still too loud for me since I can easily hear it during quiet scenes in a movie.

*Brightness:* If there is one area I think it somewhat noticeable it has to be brightness. I do feel that everything did get brighter. Keep in mind I'm running a 158" cinescope so I could never run digital cinema mode. I need all the lumens I could get. With natural mode I never felt like I needed more brightness honestly. I just felt like digital cinema was missing the pop I wanted in the picture. After the update, I would still say I would not use digital cinema but it got closer to the point where I kept debating if I could keep my settings on digital cinema. That in itself I think it's telling. In natural mode, I think it actually may be too bright at times lol. So it seems like the update helped where I can now move the HDR slider 2-3 clicks and still gives me the pop I want in the picture while helping some of the black levels.


I wish we got some notes onto exactly what did changed in this update. But I'm going to take a guess here and think they might have tweaked the HDR slider in some way? In the other areas I just didn't notice a huge difference. I didn't want to spend time using instruments to see if there was a difference before and after. I just wanted to see if I noticed any huge difference because if it did with just my eyes and ears, I figured then I would know the tweaks were pretty big.


----------



## biglen

dkcinema said:


> So I did the update on my 6050ub yesterday and played around with it for a few hours. If I had to be honest it seemed like some people were making it seem like this update was almost night/day difference and my personal belief is that the update is nice but its very minor overall difference.
> 
> 
> 
> *Motion:* This is where I was hoping it would improve the most but honestly I think this was the area where the update did almost nothing. If it did do anything it feels more like placebo. I played back a few scenes where I notice the "motion judder" during panning and played it back as soon as the update was done and didn't notice any difference if any. And to clarify I don't mean judder when the frame rates don't match up, I'm just talking about the effect we see since it's running at 24fps and at certain panning speeds you notice it more since its only 24fps.
> 
> 
> 
> *Sharpness:* Again I didn't notice much difference. I always thought the projector was super sharp to begin with anyway and it wasn't much different after the update. It was still very sharp. If it was sharper I couldn't tell you unless I had some sort of A/B switch to compare.
> 
> 
> 
> *Fan noise:* Same with the fan noise too. I tried to pay attention to the fan noise with no other sounds and listened the same way after the update. Same as the sharpness, unless I had some A/B switch to compare it's hard to tell. And the most important thing is that if there is a difference I think the high fan is still too loud for me since I can easily hear it during quiet scenes in a movie.
> 
> 
> 
> *Brightness:* If there is one area I think it somewhat noticeable it has to be brightness. I do feel that everything did get brighter. Keep in mind I'm running a 158" cinescope so I could never run digital cinema mode. I need all the lumens I could get. With natural mode I never felt like I needed more brightness honestly. I just felt like digital cinema was missing the pop I wanted in the picture. After the update, I would still say I would not use digital cinema but it got closer to the point where I kept debating if I could keep my settings on digital cinema. That in itself I think it's telling. In natural mode, I think it actually may be too bright at times lol. So it seems like the update helped where I can now move the HDR slider 2-3 clicks and still gives me the pop I want in the picture while helping some of the black levels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish we got some notes onto exactly what did changed in this update. But I'm going to take a guess here and think they might have tweaked the HDR slider in some way? In the other areas I just didn't notice a huge difference. I didn't want to spend time using instruments to see if there was a difference before and after. I just wanted to see if I noticed any huge difference because if it did with just my eyes and ears, I figured then I would know the tweaks were pretty big.


I was trying to figure out how an update could lower fan noise. If the fan is noisy, it's noisy. That one made no sense to me. Unless it lowered the fan speed, but then the projector might run hot. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dkcinema

biglen said:


> I was trying to figure out how an update could lower fan noise. If the fan is noisy, it's noisy. That one made no sense to me. Unless it lowered the fan speed, but then the projector might run hot.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yup exactly. Only way to get the fan to have lower dB level would be lower the rpm and like you mentioned could cause the unit to overheat unless they were wrong about how fast they needed the fan to run with the original firmware.

It's possible they could have tweaked something to improve the e-shift for sharpness and possibly motion. But again, if the release notes can point to something they did to improve, I didn't think it was enough improvement for me to notice unless I had an A/B switch.

I do think the brightness is improved and again this could be tweaking of the HDR slider maybe, but hopefully people smarter then me with this stuff and who have instruments can confirm this.


----------



## Porknz

Kind of at my wits end here. Hopefully all of the brains in here can help me out. I posted some months ago trying to figure the same thing out. No success yet. I bought my first projector last fall, obviously the 5050ub. It does tv just fine. It does 4k movies just fine. It's a hot mess streaming anything and seems to struggle with dvd's too. I have a really old receiver, so it's possible that's the problem, but who has hundreds of dollars to throw around right now? I'm trying to avoid this being the problem, but understand it might be. Tonight I opened up the fire cube and hooked it up, and it actually seemed like it might have streamed the show my wife and daughter were trying to watch without issue. The picture seemed to hold, while it was completely unwatchable while doing through the 4k player because it constantly glitches out and drops the picture, but not the sound. Problem is, the cube seems to have one hdmi out, and I'm not sure how to make that connection to my av and projector work. I'm assuming I run an hdmi to the av and then from there to the projector, maybe? Problem is (probably among many) my old receiver doesn't have hdmi. So I connect back to the 4k player. Same problems, unwatchable and while I'm in he menu of the 4k player I actually start to see the glitching there too. No streaming. I get none of this while watching tv, or 4k movies, but now I'm really worried that it's happening during the menu???


I just bought a fire cube it doesn't appear I can use. I could spend another $100-$200 dollars on another hdmi cable. I could spend another $500-$700 on a new marantz receiver to use temporarily. Is it possible it's the projector that's the problem? Is it possible it's the 4k player that's the problem? Buying a projector and a screen was something we saved up for ten years to splurge on and I can't get it working right. It's so frustrating. How can I figure out where the problem is without dropping a bunch more money I don't have right now?


Thanks for any ideas...


----------



## biglen

Porknz said:


> Kind of at my wits end here. Hopefully all of the brains in here can help me out. I posted some months ago trying to figure the same thing out. No success yet. I bought my first projector last fall, obviously the 5050ub. It does tv just fine. It does 4k movies just fine. It's a hot mess streaming anything and seems to struggle with dvd's too. I have a really old receiver, so it's possible that's the problem, but who has hundreds of dollars to throw around right now? I'm trying to avoid this being the problem, but understand it might be. Tonight I opened up the fire cube and hooked it up, and it actually seemed like it might have streamed the show my wife and daughter were trying to watch without issue. The picture seemed to hold, while it was completely unwatchable while doing through the 4k player because it constantly glitches out and drops the picture, but not the sound. Problem is, the cube seems to have one hdmi out, and I'm not sure how to make that connection to my av and projector work. I'm assuming I run an hdmi to the av and then from there to the projector, maybe? Problem is (probably among many) my old receiver doesn't have hdmi. So I connect back to the 4k player. Same problems, unwatchable and while I'm in he menu of the 4k player I actually start to see the glitching there too. No streaming. I get none of this while watching tv, or 4k movies, but now I'm really worried that it's happening during the menu???
> 
> 
> I just bought a fire cube it doesn't appear I can use. I could spend another $100-$200 dollars on another hdmi cable. I could spend another $500-$700 on a new marantz receiver to use temporarily. Is it possible it's the projector that's the problem? Is it possible it's the 4k player that's the problem? Buying a projector and a screen was something we saved up for ten years to splurge on and I can't get it working right. It's so frustrating. How can I figure out where the problem is without dropping a bunch more money I don't have right now?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any ideas...


Not to break balls, but you spent $3k on the projector, but can't afford a new receiver??? As far as the Cube goes, I'd hook it directly to the 5050, and see if it works properly. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

biglen said:


> Not to break balls, but you spent $3k on the projector, but can't afford a new receiver??? As far as the Cube goes, I'd hook it directly to the 5050, and see if it works properly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 I know. Not a great time for money right now. I hadn't anticipated it would be a problem as the receiver works great. No issues with it, but being old has apparently become an issue. If I'm going to get a new receiver, I'd like to get a 7.2 or 9.2 Maratz, but there's no chance of that, which leaves me thinking maybe I can get a cheap (refurbished?) 5.1 or 5.2 to work for a while until I get the money to get more speakers too. But even that isn't going to be cheap. How can I determine if it's the receiver before dumping money into that and finding it doesn't solve the problem?


Oh, and the cube seemed to work great, I just can't figure out how to get audio to work with out hdmi on my receiver, which leaves it not solving my problem.


----------



## covsound1

dkcinema said:


> So I did the update on my 6050ub yesterday and played around with it for a few hours. If I had to be honest it seemed like some people were making it seem like this update was almost night/day difference and my personal belief is that the update is nice but its very minor overall difference.
> 
> *Motion:* This is where I was hoping it would improve the most but honestly I think this was the area where the update did almost nothing. If it did do anything it feels more like placebo. I played back a few scenes where I notice the "motion judder" during panning and played it back as soon as the update was done and didn't notice any difference if any. And to clarify I don't mean judder when the frame rates don't match up, I'm just talking about the effect we see since it's running at 24fps and at certain panning speeds you notice it more since its only 24fps.
> 
> *Sharpness:* Again I didn't notice much difference. I always thought the projector was super sharp to begin with anyway and it wasn't much different after the update. It was still very sharp. If it was sharper I couldn't tell you unless I had some sort of A/B switch to compare.
> 
> *Fan noise:* Same with the fan noise too. I tried to pay attention to the fan noise with no other sounds and listened the same way after the update. Same as the sharpness, unless I had some A/B switch to compare it's hard to tell. And the most important thing is that if there is a difference I think the high fan is still too loud for me since I can easily hear it during quiet scenes in a movie.
> 
> *Brightness:* If there is one area I think it somewhat noticeable it has to be brightness. I do feel that everything did get brighter. Keep in mind I'm running a 158" cinescope so I could never run digital cinema mode. I need all the lumens I could get. With natural mode I never felt like I needed more brightness honestly. I just felt like digital cinema was missing the pop I wanted in the picture. After the update, I would still say I would not use digital cinema but it got closer to the point where I kept debating if I could keep my settings on digital cinema. That in itself I think it's telling. In natural mode, I think it actually may be too bright at times lol. So it seems like the update helped where I can now move the HDR slider 2-3 clicks and still gives me the pop I want in the picture while helping some of the black levels.
> 
> 
> I wish we got some notes onto exactly what did changed in this update. But I'm going to take a guess here and think they might have tweaked the HDR slider in some way? In the other areas I just didn't notice a huge difference. I didn't want to spend time using instruments to see if there was a difference before and after. I just wanted to see if I noticed any huge difference because if it did with just my eyes and ears, I figured then I would know the tweaks were pretty big.


 Thank you for stating what you see.I have mention they did not give us a new lamp. But rather a new way to use the light you have.Because of this new gamma table a new calibration may be in order. One of the things i did not talk about was the gains not using the color filter wonder if you notice this not the brightness?


----------



## biglen

Porknz said:


> I know. Not a great time for money right now. I hadn't anticipated it would be a problem as the receiver works great. No issues with it, but being old has apparently become an issue. If I'm going to get a new receiver, I'd like to get a 7.2 or 9.2 Maratz, but there's no chance of that, which leaves me thinking maybe I can get a cheap (refurbished?) 5.1 or 5.2 to work for a while until I get the money to get more speakers too. But even that isn't going to be cheap. How can I determine if it's the receiver before dumping money into that and finding it doesn't solve the problem?
> 
> 
> Oh, and the cube seemed to work great, I just can't figure out how to get audio to work with out hdmi on my receiver, which leaves it not solving my problem.


How is the Cube hooked up to the receiver, if the receiver doesn't have HDMI?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

biglen said:


> How is the Cube hooked up to the receiver, if the receiver doesn't have HDMI?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Sorry. I must not have been clear. I connected the hdmi to the cube. The picture was great. No more cutting out. No more dropped picture, but that's when I realized, wait, where am I going to connect the audio to my receiver. There in lies the problem with the cube. Maybe with the cube and a new receiver the problem would be fixed, but how do I make sure of that before I spend money I don't have on a new receiver?


----------



## biglen

Porknz said:


> Sorry. I must not have been clear. I connected the hdmi to the cube. The picture was great. No more cutting out. No more dropped picture, but that's when I realized, wait, where am I going to connect the audio to my receiver. There in lies the problem with the cube. Maybe with the cube and a new receiver the problem would be fixed, but how do I make sure of that before I spend money I don't have on a new receiver?


You can get a Factory refurbished Denon AVR-S940H for around $400. Can you do that, or no? In today's world, you really need a receiver that can do HDR and has HDMI inputs. You definitely need that with the 5050. 





Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

biglen said:


> You can get a Factory refurbished Denon AVR-S940H for around $400. Can you do that, or no? In today's world, you really need a receiver that can do HDR and has HDMI inputs. You definitely need that with the 5050.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



I'd be open to suggestions. I've loved my Marantz. I'm open to suggestions for other options that might be less expensive.  



What about options that only have 5 channels? That's all I have for speakers right now, so maybe I get something even cheaper than that with plans to get a nice 7.2 or 9.2 later. My old Marantz is a 5.1. Maybe there is a cheap 5.2 that would do the trick for now?


What specs do I need to look for that might solve my problem(s) other than having some hdmi connections?


----------



## Porknz

Porknz said:


> I'd be open to suggestions. I've loved my Marantz. I'm open to suggestions for other options that might be less expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> What about options that only have 5 channels? That's all I have for speakers right now, so maybe I get something even cheaper than that with plans to get a nice 7.2 or 9.2 later. My old Marantz is a 5.1. Maybe there is a cheap 5.2 that would do the trick for now?
> 
> 
> What specs do I need to look for that might solve my problem(s) other than having some hdmi connections?


Looks like it would be a solid choice. Is there any way to determine that's the problem? If I drop another $400+ and have the same problem... I'm still worried it could be any of the other components. Does it make sense that an old receiver would be causing the picture drops?


----------



## mauro145

Porknz said:


> I'd be open to suggestions. I've loved my Marantz. I'm open to suggestions for other options that might be less expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> What about options that only have 5 channels? That's all I have for speakers right now, so maybe I get something even cheaper than that with plans to get a nice 7.2 or 9.2 later. My old Marantz is a 5.1. Maybe there is a cheap 5.2 that would do the trick for now?
> 
> 
> What specs do I need to look for that might solve my problem(s) other than having some hdmi connections?


What about a HDMI switch? you connect all your hdmis to this and then send the sound to the receiver using optical. Hdfury devices can also adapt Dolby vision to be used on the projector. 

Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

dkcinema said:


> So I did the update on my 6050ub yesterday and played around with it for a few hours. If I had to be honest it seemed like some people were making it seem like this update was almost night/day difference and my personal belief is that the update is nice but its very minor overall difference.


I feel there’s a combination of thing at play with the update, all subtle but combined make for a better image.



dkcinema said:


> *Motion:* This is where I was hoping it would improve the most but honestly I think this was the area where the update did almost nothing. If it did do anything it feels more like placebo. I played back a few scenes where I notice the "motion judder" during panning and played it back as soon as the update was done and didn't notice any difference if any. And to clarify I don't mean judder when the frame rates don't match up, I'm just talking about the effect we see since it's running at 24fps and at certain panning speeds you notice it more since its only 24fps.


This was the one I originally thought had changed but quickly changed this thought as different movies seemed to yield different results.



dkcinema said:


> *Sharpness:* Again I didn't notice much difference. I always thought the projector was super sharp to begin with anyway and it wasn't much different after the update. It was still very sharp. If it was sharper I couldn't tell you unless I had some sort of A/B switch to compare.


Nope I don’t think this is different but I do feel the image “noise” is less now with the image enhancement.



dkcinema said:


> *Fan noise:* Same with the fan noise too. I tried to pay attention to the fan noise with no other sounds and listened the same way after the update. Same as the sharpness, unless I had some A/B switch to compare it's hard to tell. And the most important thing is that if there is a difference I think the high fan is still too loud for me since I can easily hear it during quiet scenes in a movie.


Never use high lamp mode so don’t know if different on not but I do think the med lamp mode is a little quieter.



dkcinema said:


> *Brightness:* If there is one area I think it somewhat noticeable it has to be brightness. I do feel that everything did get brighter. Keep in mind I'm running a 158" cinescope so I could never run digital cinema mode. I need all the lumens I could get. With natural mode I never felt like I needed more brightness honestly. I just felt like digital cinema was missing the pop I wanted in the picture. After the update, I would still say I would not use digital cinema but it got closer to the point where I kept debating if I could keep my settings on digital cinema. That in itself I think it's telling. In natural mode, I think it actually may be too bright at times lol. So it seems like the update helped where I can now move the HDR slider 2-3 clicks and still gives me the pop I want in the picture while helping some of the black levels.


Oddly this is one area that I feel it has also improved the blacks or is it the difference between the two extremes have improved, I definitely feel more detail in the shadow. I also feel colours in both natural and cinema have more pop than before, how this is being achieved I don’t know unless contrast has somehow changed.



dkcinema said:


> I wish we got some notes onto exactly what did changed in this update. But I'm going to take a guess here and think they might have tweaked the HDR slider in some way? In the other areas I just didn't notice a huge difference. I didn't want to spend time using instruments to see if there was a difference before and after. I just wanted to see if I noticed any huge difference because if it did with just my eyes and ears, I figured then I would know the tweaks were pretty big.


I think even subtle differences can make a huge difference, for example prior to this update I could have seen myself looking at moving to the N5 in the not to distance future but now I’m more than happy to sit where I’m at.


----------



## rekbones

Porknz said:


> Looks like it would be a solid choice. Is there any way to determine that's the problem? If I drop another $400+ and have the same problem... I'm still worried it could be any of the other components. Does it make sense that an old receiver would be causing the picture drops?


Of course getting a compatible receiver is the ultimate course of action. As others have mentioned an HDMI splitter with audio extraction should eliminate as any possible receiver issues. The HD Fury devices definitely work well but are pricey. A device brought up in this thread discus a cheaper device for around $40 that might work in your situation. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...45874-4k-content-1080p-pj-nividia-shield.html

EDIT: Sorry that device will only work on older receivers with HDMI. There are several devices on the market that have HDMI switching/w opt audio extraction for around the same price but do your research as many have restrictions. Your looking for full 600Mz support.


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> I think even subtle differences can make a huge difference, for example prior to this update I could have seen myself looking at moving to the N5 in the not to distance future but now I’m more than happy to sit where I’m at.


 This is the same thought i said to myself. But if i was going to spend that kind of money it would have to be the N7 .


----------



## HTX^2steve

Malodium said:


> The last time there was a firmware update the projector used my wireless connection to download and update. Or at least it said it did. We dont need usb do we?
> 
> 
> Also, anyone have good recommendation for some 3D glasses that work fine with this that don't cost an arm and a leg?


SSG-5100GB...I bought four all work great!


----------



## Pretorian

Forgive me asking but HOW do you guys (and gals) update your projector? I have the 6050.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Pretorian said:


> Forgive me asking but HOW do you guys (and gals) update your projector? I have the 6050.


You download the file stick it onto a USB stick and put it into USB port a if you send me a PM with your email I can send you the file along with the instructions

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Porknz said:


> Looks like it would be a solid choice. Is there any way to determine that's the problem? If I drop another $400+ and have the same problem... I'm still worried it could be any of the other components. Does it make sense that an old receiver would be causing the picture drops?


There's a 5.2 Denon AVR-S540BT that's factory refurbished, for $189. 5 HDMI ports, and it does HDR. I don't think you'll find a cheaper AVR than that, unless you look on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace. It's the year 2020, you need to update your receiver. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

biglen said:


> There's a 5.2 Denon AVR-S540BT that's factory refurbished, for $189. 5 HDMI ports, and it does HDR. I don't think you'll find a cheaper AVR than that, unless you look on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace. It's the year 2020, you need to update your receiver.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



I saw that. You are on top of things! The more I looked at that, the more it looked like a half step up, rather than a full step up. I think if I go for a new receiver, I find the $400 instead. 



When I asked accessories4less for suggestions on a new receiver, they didn't even respond back with a suggestion. They said I need a new hdmi cable.


Any suggestions for a different 50ft fiber optic cable to try? This is what I have. https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Optical-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B07KG7C25W?th=1


----------



## biglen

Porknz said:


> I saw that. You are on top of things! The more I looked at that, the more it looked like a half step up, rather than a full step up. I think if I go for a new receiver, I find the $400 instead.
> 
> 
> 
> When I asked accessories4less for suggestions on a new receiver, they didn't even respond back with a suggestion. They said I need a new hdmi cable.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions for a different 50ft fiber optic cable to try? This is what I have. https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Optical-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B07KG7C25W?th=1


Get the Series 3 Active. It works flawlessly with my 5050. Also, have you tried both HDMI inputs on your 5050? My HDMI #1 port, was acting weird for me. HDMI 2 works fine. 

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## --Sclaws

With the new firmware I have mostly noticed two things...brightness (especially with Digital Cinema) and fan noise. The projector is mounted directly above my seating position (inverted) and it is noticably quieter. HDR with the filter in place certainly appears brighter, tho I don't quite understand how that was achieved. Not a complaint, just minor but welcome confusion.


----------



## dropzone7

It's been a few years since I owned a projector but I'm starting to look again. I'm in a new house with a space that I think can do justice to a projector and screen setup. I kind of shoehorned that into my last room and it was great but always wished I had more room and a bigger screen. This projector (6050) caught my attention due to the brightness spec and wanting a large screen. I'm considering a 150" wide (163" diagonal), 2.35:1 screen but I'm wondering if the projector will be bright enough to do justice to HDR content. I'm pretty addicted to HDR on my flat panel TV and I know that no projector will ever get close to that kind of pop. However, I'm willing to make some compromises for the large screen experience. Anyone here using a similar setup and have any idea how many foot lamberts of brightness you are getting? I guess I should also add that I will be using an accousticaly transparent screen with gain somewhere between 1.0 and 1.2


----------



## Porknz

biglen said:


> Get the Series 3 Active. It works flawlessly with my 5050. Also, have you tried both HDMI inputs on your 5050? My HDMI #1 port, was acting weird for me. HDMI 2 works fine.
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



That is an excellent idea too! I will climb up there and try that.


That seems like a pretty reasonable price too, though I don't seem to actually be able to see the cables? $85 for 50ft?


----------



## noob00224

dropzone7 said:


> It's been a few years since I owned a projector but I'm starting to look again. I'm in a new house with a space that I think can do justice to a projector and screen setup. I kind of shoehorned that into my last room and it was great but always wished I had more room and a bigger screen. This projector (6050) caught my attention due to the brightness spec and wanting a large screen. I'm considering a 150" wide (163" diagonal), 2.35:1 screen but I'm wondering if the projector will be bright enough to do justice to HDR content. I'm pretty addicted to HDR on my flat panel TV and I know that no projector will ever get close to that kind of pop. However, I'm willing to make some compromises for the large screen experience. Anyone here using a similar setup and have any idea how many foot lamberts of brightness you are getting? I guess I should also add that I will be using an accousticaly transparent screen with gain somewhere between 1.0 and 1.2


The highest (white) AT gain screens have 0.95 gain.

Treating the room will make the image appear brighter.

Use this calculator:
https://webprojectorcalculator.com/

If HDR is what you're interested in maybe look into the JVC NX series which has a good HDR tone mapper which is dynamic. The Epson's is static (manual slider). Some users have a Panasonic UB420/820/9000 for tone mapping, but it's still static. The NX series is not as bright and although some people claim that they're satisfied with even 170" screens I don't know If they are suitable for more than 120" with a 1.0 gain screen. Maybe in the diagonal you want if the screen is positive gain. 
The Epson is brighter if left uncalibrated, when calibrated it comes much closer to the NX series. A B stock NX5 can be had for the cost of a 6050UB new.

For local sources (no streaming) madvr will give you the best tone mapping available, short of the Envy (which can do streaming), but is a bit more expensive. 

HDR also benefits/requires dynamic range, so room treatment will help.


----------



## biglen

Porknz said:


> That is an excellent idea too! I will climb up there and try that.
> 
> 
> That seems like a pretty reasonable price too, though I don't seem to actually be able to see the cables? $85 for 50ft?


Yes, the 50 ft for $85 is the one you want. Trust me, I tried a ton of cables, and the Blue Jeans was the one that worked perfectly and has continued to. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dropzone7

noob00224 said:


> The highest (white) AT gain screens have 0.95 gain.
> 
> Treating the room will make the image appear brighter.
> 
> Use this calculator:
> https://webprojectorcalculator.com/
> 
> If HDR is what you're interested in maybe look into the JVC NX series which has a good HDR tone mapper which is dynamic. The Epson's is static (manual slider). Some users have a Panasonic UB420/820/9000 for tone mapping, but it's still static. The NX series is not as bright and although some people claim that they're satisfied with even 170" screens I don't know If they are suitable for more than 120" with a 1.0 gain screen. Maybe in the diagonal you want if the screen is positive gain.
> The Epson is brighter if left uncalibrated, when calibrated it comes much closer to the NX series. A B stock NX5 can be had for the cost of a 6050UB new.
> 
> For local sources (no streaming) madvr will give you the best tone mapping available, short of the Envy (which can do streaming), but is a bit more expensive.
> 
> HDR also benefits/requires dynamic range, so room treatment will help.


Thanks, this is all good information. I was looking at the Seymour AV Centerstage XD material which claims 1.0-1.2 gain even being an AT fabric. Perhaps that is optimistic. My last room was essentially a bat cave so I agree totally about light control in the room. That won't be a problem, I don't plan on doing any ambient light viewing in this room. 

I have owned several JVC projectors and always enjoyed the great black levels but I was a little underwhelmed at some of the comparison videos I watched between JVC and EPSON. I was never addicted to the brightness before and even came from CRT projectors so that should say something about my viewing habits in the past. However, part of this experience is sharing it with friends and family and I can tell you that what almost always wows people more than anything else is A. a huge screen and B. a bright punchy image. That doesn't mean it's a reference image or what I would necessarily prefer but the people that come over for a movie on occasion love it. 

madVR and Envy, this is all new to me. The last time I had a theater I was streaming my BluRay backups from whatever media player I liked at the time, had many of them over the years. No cable or satellite TV viewing, strictly movies and sometimes gaming. 

Oh, I can feel my wallet getting lighter already!


----------



## spiroh

I updated the firmware a couple days ago. I see maybe some slight improvement but considering I was happy with the projector before this just makes it even better.


----------



## noob00224

dropzone7 said:


> Thanks, this is all good information. I was looking at the Seymour AV Centerstage XD material which claims 1.0-1.2 gain even being an AT fabric. Perhaps that is optimistic. My last room was essentially a bat cave so I agree totally about light control in the room. That won't be a problem, I don't plan on doing any ambient light viewing in this room.
> 
> I have owned several JVC projectors and always enjoyed the great black levels but I was a little underwhelmed at some of the comparison videos I watched between JVC and EPSON. I was never addicted to the brightness before and even came from CRT projectors so that should say something about my viewing habits in the past. However, part of this experience is sharing it with friends and family and I can tell you that what almost always wows people more than anything else is A. a huge screen and B. a bright punchy image. That doesn't mean it's a reference image or what I would necessarily prefer but the people that come over for a movie on occasion love it.
> 
> madVR and Envy, this is all new to me. The last time I had a theater I was streaming my BluRay backups from whatever media player I liked at the time, had many of them over the years. No cable or satellite TV viewing, strictly movies and sometimes gaming.
> 
> Oh, I can feel my wallet getting lighter already!


Light control is not the same as room treatment. Reflections are still a problem for contrast/black level:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/

I was referring to the XD, which was measured: https://www.accucalav.com/wp-content/uploads/accucal_front_projection_screen_report.pdf

The problem for HDR is that it requires higher dynamic range, so brightness is important. Withe the NX series I've seen 21fL recommended for HDR, with the Epson is higher and it's manual. Lamps dim so initially it would have to be even higher. It would be difficult with both units to get the recommended values with higher diagonal screens.

madvr does great for video, but can't help with games.

As I already mentioned B stock NX5 is in your budget if a 6050UB also is.


----------



## skylarlove1999

dropzone7 said:


> Thanks, this is all good information. I was looking at the Seymour AV Centerstage XD material which claims 1.0-1.2 gain even being an AT fabric. Perhaps that is optimistic. My last room was essentially a bat cave so I agree totally about light control in the room. That won't be a problem, I don't plan on doing any ambient light viewing in this room.
> 
> 
> 
> I have owned several JVC projectors and always enjoyed the great black levels but I was a little underwhelmed at some of the comparison videos I watched between JVC and EPSON. I was never addicted to the brightness before and even came from CRT projectors so that should say something about my viewing habits in the past. However, part of this experience is sharing it with friends and family and I can tell you that what almost always wows people more than anything else is A. a huge screen and B. a bright punchy image. That doesn't mean it's a reference image or what I would necessarily prefer but the people that come over for a movie on occasion love it.
> 
> 
> 
> madVR and Envy, this is all new to me. The last time I had a theater I was streaming my BluRay backups from whatever media player I liked at the time, had many of them over the years. No cable or satellite TV viewing, strictly movies and sometimes gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, I can feel my wallet getting lighter already!


The Seymour AT materials have been independently measured at .95. I would not expect more than that which is still really good for an AT screen. The Stewart Filmscreen Studiotek 130 G4 can be perforated. That lowers the gain from 1.3 to 1.2 . Stewart prices have really come down and they are actually less expensive than Seymour at this point in many cases. You should at least get a quote for Stewart. Keep in mind for a perforated screen you must sit a certain distance from the screen. 

madVR is a great PC based software for video processing. If you plan on an HTPC anyway you should definitely do madVR. The dynamic tone mapping through madVR will rival HDR performance you see from an LCD television, even at 150 inches. madVR Envy is a video processor which is a set it and forget solution for dynamic tone mapping and upscaling, among other things. Currently in BETA testing under NDA. The least expensive model will probably be over $6K.

Even without the DTM from Madvr you will probably be okay at 150 inches as long as you are willing to forgo the filter used in Digital Cinema and Cinema mode and you are okay with running high lamp for HDR content. With the filter in place, giving the best colors utilizing 99% of the DCI-P3 color space , the Epson lumens drop by around 50% . You can still use natural mode and get about 85% of the DCI-P3 color space. 

The JVC NX5 is an excellent projector but will still have less lumens than running the Epson in Natural mode with high lamp. The JVC NX5 does not have a filter for the DCI-P3 color space but does achieve 90% of that color space even without the filter. The JVC NX5 does have the dynamic tone mapping which is a better solution for HDR than static tone mapping. The JVC is true 4k , has better contrast and inkier blacks. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dropzone7

noob00224 said:


> Light control is not the same as room treatment. Reflections are still a problem for contrast/black level:
> https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/
> 
> I was referring to the XD, which was measured: https://www.accucalav.com/wp-content/uploads/accucal_front_projection_screen_report.pdf
> 
> The problem for HDR is that it requires higher dynamic range, so brightness is important. Withe the NX series I've seen 21fL recommended for HDR, with the Epson is higher and it's manual. Lamps dim so initially it would have to be even higher. It would be difficult with both units to get the recommended values with higher diagonal screens.
> 
> madvr does great for video, but can't help with games.
> 
> As I already mentioned B stock NX5 is in your budget if a 6050UB also is.


Pretty dramatic difference in that video for sure! This is what my last room looked like so I had it about as treated as I could. The ceiling was popcorn so I never wanted to tackle painting that black. I can make the new room totally dark and all walls will be treated for reflections both visual and acoustic. 

Thanks for the screen material document, I will give that a read. I think Seymour changed their XD material a few years ago so maybe they were able to improve the gain since that was written. Either way, I know I'm sacrificing some gain by going with an AT screen but I think the tradeoff will be worth it. I wish I could see in person comparison of these projectors but we don't have many A/V stores in this area that would be able to demo either much less both.


----------



## noob00224

dropzone7 said:


> Pretty dramatic difference in that video for sure! This is what my last room looked like so I had it about as treated as I could. The ceiling was popcorn so I never wanted to tackle painting that black. I can make the new room totally dark and all walls will be treated for reflections both visual and acoustic.
> 
> Thanks for the screen material document, I will give that a read. I think Seymour changed their XD material a few years ago so maybe they were able to improve the gain since that was written. Either way, I know I'm sacrificing some gain by going with an AT screen but I think the tradeoff will be worth it. I wish I could see in person comparison of these projectors but we don't have many A/V stores in this area that would be able to demo either much less both.


Nice room.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-s...seymourav-center-stage-screen-thread-135.html


----------



## dropzone7

skylarlove1999 said:


> The Seymour AT materials have been independently measured at .95. I would not expect more than that which is still really good for an AT screen. The Stewart Filmscreen Studiotek 130 G4 can be perforated. That lowers the gain from 1.3 to 1.2 . Stewart prices have really come down and they are actually less expensive than Seymour at this point in many cases. You should at least get a quote for Stewart. Keep in mind for a perforated screen you must sit a certain distance from the screen.
> 
> madVR is a great PC based software for video processing. If you plan on an HTPC anyway you should definitely do madVR. The dynamic tone mapping through madVR will rival HDR performance you see from an LCD television, even at 150 inches. madVR Envy is a video processor which is a set it and forget solution for dynamic tone mapping and upscaling, among other things. Currently in BETA testing under NDA. The least expensive model will probably be over $6K.
> 
> Even without the DTM from Madvr you will probably be okay at 150 inches as long as you are willing to forgo the filter used in Digital Cinema and Cinema mode and you are okay with running high lamp for HDR content. With the filter in place, giving the best colors utilizing 99% of the DCI-P3 color space , the Epson lumens drop by around 50% . You can still use natural mode and get about 85% of the DCI-P3 color space.
> 
> The JVC NX5 is an excellent projector but will still have less lumens than running the Epson in Natural mode with high lamp. The JVC NX5 does not have a filter for the DCI-P3 color space but does achieve 90% of that color space even without the filter. The JVC NX5 does have the dynamic tone mapping which is a better solution for HDR than static tone mapping. The JVC is true 4k , has better contrast and inkier blacks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks, I'm taking notes. I tried HTPC once and it was an epic disaster for me, probably because I was using Windows Home Server. My last solution was just using an UnRaid server for movies and playing those from a Dune Base player and several other media players I can't think of at the moment. It's been a while but I know I also tried using Kodi on an ASUS Chromebox which worked pretty well.

Any recommendation on minimum system requirement, parts list for a HTPC with Madvr?


----------



## Luminated67

Porknz said:


> I saw that. You are on top of things! The more I looked at that, the more it looked like a half step up, rather than a full step up. I think if I go for a new receiver, I find the $400 instead.
> 
> 
> 
> When I asked accessories4less for suggestions on a new receiver, they didn't even respond back with a suggestion. They said I need a new hdmi cable.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions for a different 50ft fiber optic cable to try? This is what I have. https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Optical-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B07KG7C25W?th=1


The Sony STR-DN1080 is a crackling alternative to both Denon and Marantz, I used to use a Denon 2400h and after a lightening strike took out my Denon I bought the Sony, sonically I think it actually sounds even better though it doesn’t have the same bells and whistles that the Denon offers.

May I ask what is wrong with the ATZEBE you currently have, one have used the 33ft versions for 17 months now with zero issues and get a quoted 4:4:4 on everything.


----------



## noob00224

dropzone7 said:


> Thanks, I'm taking notes. I tried HTPC once and it was an epic disaster for me, probably because I was using Windows Home Server. My last solution was just using an UnRaid server for movies and playing those from a Dune Base player and several other media players I can't think of at the moment. It's been a while but I know I also tried using Kodi on an ASUS Chromebox which worked pretty well.
> 
> Any recommendation on minimum system requirement, parts list for a HTPC with Madvr?


The most relevant part is the GPU. madvr has a lot of features, and some options in the HDR tone mapping as well. To use everything you probably need a 3080Ti. Minimum for HDR tone mapping is something like GTX1660Ti/2060RTX:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2364113-guide-building-4k-htpc-madvr.html


----------



## dropzone7

noob00224 said:


> Nice room.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-s...seymourav-center-stage-screen-thread-135.html


Thanks and thank you for the link. I have been out of this hobby for way too long. Part of the reason I took a break was because I felt like I was always chasing an unattainable goal and never happy with what I had. I'm hoping this time around I can just have fun with it and not take it OR myself so seriously.


----------



## dropzone7

noob00224 said:


> The most relevant part is the GPU. madvr has a lot of features, and some options in the HDR tone mapping as well. To use everything you probably need a 3080Ti. Minimum for HDR tone mapping is something like GTX1660Ti/2060RTX:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2364113-guide-building-4k-htpc-madvr.html


Wow, that's a really deep rabbit hole! Looks like a lot of tinkering fun. Maybe once I have all the components in place (projector, screen, media player to start), I can try this.


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> The most relevant part is the GPU. madvr has a lot of features, and some options in the HDR tone mapping as well. To use everything you probably need a 3080Ti. Minimum for HDR tone mapping is something like GTX1660Ti/2060RTX:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-home-theater-computers/2364113-guide-building-4k-htpc-madvr.html


A 2080 Super should be plenty. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## dropzone7

biglen said:


> A 2080 Super should be plenty.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Wow, $700 and that's just the graphics card? I'm not a PC guy but I guess we are talking a few grand for a PC to play movies.


----------



## noob00224

dropzone7 said:


> Wow, $700 and that's just the graphics card? I'm not a PC guy but I guess we are talking a few grand for a PC to play movies.





biglen said:


> A 2080 Super should be plenty.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I said everything. 

It depends what features are used. I have a GTX1060 and it works fine, but would want something like a 1070TI or 2060RTX since there are some things I would like to improve upon.


----------



## biglen

dropzone7 said:


> Wow, $700 and that's just the graphics card? I'm not a PC guy but I guess we are talking a few grand for a PC to play movies.


You can probably get away with a 2060 Super, and run most of the highest settings in MadVR. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Luminated67 said:


> The Sony STR-DN1080 is a crackling alternative to both Denon and Marantz, I used to use a Denon 2400h and after a lightening strike took out my Denon I bought the Sony, sonically I think it actually sounds even better though it doesn’t have the same bells and whistles that the Denon offers.
> 
> May I ask what is wrong with the ATZEBE you currently have, one have used the 33ft versions for 17 months now with zero issues and get a quoted 4:4:4 on everything.



There in lies my problem. I don't know if it's the cable. I don't know if it's the old receiver. I don't know if it's something with the projector itself. Maybe it's the 4k player. I can't seem to figure out where the problem lies, and it's hard to keep throwing money at it. I just know the picture keeps dropping to the point that it was unwatchable again last night when my wife and daughter were trying to watch netflix, and we added Disney+ last night and they ended up watching on their phones and laptops instead of the 150" screen...


----------



## skylarlove1999

dropzone7 said:


> Thanks, I'm taking notes. I tried HTPC once and it was an epic disaster for me, probably because I was using Windows Home Server. My last solution was just using an UnRaid server for movies and playing those from a Dune Base player and several other media players I can't think of at the moment. It's been a while but I know I also tried using Kodi on an ASUS Chromebox which worked pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendation on minimum system requirement, parts list for a HTPC with Madvr?


Best place to get answers is right here. 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/26-h...er-support-thread.html#/topics/2215490?page=1

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

I have must of the parts to build a stand alone htc.My question is can i use J R river software with Madvr with all its features. And what software are you guys using to rip hdr 4k movies. It has been many years for me. The idea of using my ipad to select my movies sounds fascinating to me.


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> I have must of the parts to build a stand alone htc.My question is can i use J R river software with Madvr with all its features. And what software are you guys using to rip hdr 4k movies. It has been many years for me. The idea of using my ipad to select my movies sounds fascinating to me.


You should probably ask those questions in a MadVR thread, instead of the 5050/6050 thread. 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app


Guide: Building a 4K HTPC for madVR

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> You should probably ask those questions in a MadVR thread, instead of the 5050/6050 thread.
> 
> https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app
> 
> 
> Guide: Building a 4K HTPC for madVR
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 Thank you I have a lot of reading to do.


----------



## rekbones

dropzone7 said:


> Wow, $700 and that's just the graphics card? I'm not a PC guy but I guess we are talking a few grand for a PC to play movies.


You need very little for a PC as a bare bones configuration will work fine. All your investment needs to be in the graphics card. A used GTX1080ti can be had for less then a 3rd the price of anything comparable new and should preform almost as good as a RTX2080. Add a used old office PC from a thrift store and you could be all in for under $500.


----------



## aoaaron

*2 inches short.. 6050ub*

Hi, if im 2 inches short from fillinh out my projector screen with the zoom at max, is there a software method for getting just tha extra inch or two? 

does keystone do this? even if it degrades the image slightly?

thank u!


----------



## skylarlove1999

aoaaron said:


> Hi, if im 2 inches short from fillinh out my projector screen with the zoom at max, is there a software method for getting just tha extra inch or two?
> 
> 
> 
> does keystone do this? even if it degrades the image slightly?
> 
> 
> 
> thank u!


Keystone would not do this. I would not touch Keystone. Ever. Do you have any room to move the projector back?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

rekbones said:


> You need very little for a PC as a bare bones configuration will work fine. All your investment needs to be in the graphics card. A used GTX1080ti can be had for less then a 3rd the price of anything comparable new and should preform almost as good as a RTX2080. Add a used old office PC from a thrift store and you could be all in for under $500.


According to the guys over in the thread for building a MadVR HTPC, you need more than a bare bones configuration. They recommend at least a Ryzen 3 CPU. I posted the specs of my older PC, and they said it wouldn't work for MadVR. I don't know where you're seeing 1080ti cards for 1/3 the cost either. They are trending at $550. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Do the firmware update . You will thank yourself later. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

skylarlove1999 said:


> For those of you that have done the firmware update what was the trick to getting into work and did you hear any sound from the projector while the firmware was updating
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


When I updated the 4010 it lit up all the indicator lights and then they flashed while the firmware was updating (I also used a usb stick with a read indication light).


I was just about to start the pre 1.03 firmware reads this evening but not sure if there is truly any interest in this since people will just do the update and see for themselves.

I was considering doing an interactive live stream (on YT) of the pre/post reads but my capture device is delayed and will not be here until the 8th (I was going to use a nice 4K Panasonic camera vs a webcam or phone). I don't know that there would be any interest in this either (obviously there are many other more important IRL things going on). 

- Jason


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> For those of you that have done the firmware update what was the trick to getting into work and did you hear any sound from the projector while the firmware was updating
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 The folder is zipped and also contains a pdf file.Make sure only the unzip file is on your usb and not the pdf support file as anything other than that will cause your pj not to upgrade and just start up the projector. Holding the power button with usb in port 7 should get it to load.


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> The folder is zipped and also contains a pdf file.Make sure only the unzip file is on your usb and not the pdf support file as anything other than that will cause your pj not to upgrade and just start up the projector. Holding the power button with usb in port 7 should get it to load.


That was my mistake. I got it now. Thank you.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> When I updated the 4010 it lit up all the indicator lights and then they flashed while the firmware was updating (I also used a usb stick with a read indication light).
> 
> 
> I was just about to start the pre 1.03 firmware reads this evening but not sure if there is truly any interest in this since people will just do the update and see for themselves.
> 
> I was considering doing an interactive live stream (on YT) of the pre/post reads but my capture device is delayed and will not be here until the 8th (I was going to use a nice 4K Panasonic camera vs a webcam or phone). I don't know that there would be any interest in this either (obviously there are many other more important IRL things going on).
> 
> - Jason


 Any information always helpful.


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> That was my mistake. I got it now. Thank you.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 Cant wait for your input


----------



## BIC2

covsound1 said:


> The folder is zipped and also contains a pdf file.Make sure only the unzip file is on your usb and not the pdf support file as anything other than that will cause your pj not to upgrade and just start up the projector. Holding the power button with usb in port 7 should get it to load.


Is it OK to leave the utility files that come with the USB drive?



skylarlove1999 said:


> That was my mistake. I got it now. Thank you.


Thanks for the file. According to the notes, there are no PQ upgrades, everything seems like bug fixes. I didn't try the upgrade because I'm not currently showing a firmware version. What's that about? See attached screen shots where firmware should be. I tried to attach update notes but forum doesn't seem to accept Word docs.


----------



## Sorny

BIC2 said:


> Is it OK to leave the utility files that come with the USB drive?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the file. According to the notes, there are no PQ upgrades, everything seems like bug fixes. I didn't try the upgrade because I'm not currently showing a firmware version. What's that about? See attached screen shots where firmware should be. I tried to attach update notes but forum doesn't seem to accept Word docs.


Your second pic shows firmware version 101.

They don't come right out and say what version you're running, but it's the last bit on the "main" under version.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> Is it OK to leave the utility files that come with the USB drive?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the file. According to the notes, there are no PQ upgrades, everything seems like bug fixes. I didn't try the upgrade because I'm not currently showing a firmware version. What's that about? See attached screen shots where firmware should be. I tried to attach update notes but forum doesn't seem to accept Word docs.


Main is the firmware you currently have. I spoke with Epson. The firmware release notes don't contain anything about picture quality improvements because they wanted to wait for more feedback. I only watched Endgame so far with High lamp mode and Digital Cinema, HDR slider for that movie is usually at 5 . Left HDR slider at 5. Picture was noticeably brighter overall . Specular highlights had more detail. Lasers and lightning had amazing brilliance to them. Daylight streaming scenes you could see more individual beams. Epson should be commended for improving HDR performance. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Main is the firmware you currently have. I spoke with Epson. The firmware release notes don't contain anything about picture quality improvements because they wanted to wait for more feedback. I only watched Endgame so far with High lamp mode and Digital Cinema, HDR slider for that movie is usually at 5 . Left HDR slider at 5. Picture was noticeably brighter overall . Specular highlights had more detail. Lasers and lightning had amazing brilliance to them. Daylight streaming scenes you could see more individual beams. Epson should be commended for improving HDR performance.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 Yes that is one of the first things i notice. Like you i had my slider on 5. Maybe some who say no real improvement dont push settings to notice a difference?


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> Yes that is one of the first things i notice. Like you i had my slider on 5. Maybe some who say no real improvement dont push settings to notice a difference?


Watching Guardians of the Galaxy 2 right now. Colors are more saturated. Image appears sharper as well . More depth. All the neon lights on Contraxia are so dynamic and have great detail. I should really be in bed. My children will be up in 6 hours. LOL. But the picture is so good.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Watching Guardians of the Galaxy 2 right now. Colors are more saturated. Image appears sharper as well . More depth. All the neon lights on Contraxia are so dynamic and have great detail. I should really be in bed. My children will be up in 6 hours. LOL. But the picture is so good.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Well it's OK to break the rules sometimes with the kids! 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

BIC2 said:


> Is it OK to leave the utility files that come with the USB drive?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the file. According to the notes, there are no PQ upgrades, everything seems like bug fixes. I didn't try the upgrade because I'm not currently showing a firmware version. What's that about? See attached screen shots where firmware should be. I tried to attach update notes but forum doesn't seem to accept Word docs.


Looks like you are still on the original 1.01. You didn't update. Before I did mine I had 101 at the end for both main and video2. Did you ever have a problem using frame interpolation and 4k enhancement at the same time? Make sure on the USByou have only the unzipped firmware. Replug the power while holding the power on button do not let go until at least you see the orange lights flash. Don't touch any thing until pj powers down. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sorny

Going to load 103 on my 5050 tonight when I get home from work. Got tired of waiting for Epson US to post it, so pulled it from the UK site.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Sorny said:


> Going to load 103 on my 5050 tonight when I get home from work. Got tired of waiting for Epson US to post it, so pulled it from the UK site.


Epson confirmed it is the identical file that will eventually get posted onto the Epson USA website. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

I read in this thread about some modes uses "filter". I am sorry but what does that mean? I have the 6050 and I mainly watch UHD content with HDR.

Is it a separate filter that you buy or is it something that the Epson already uses for some modes?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Pretorian said:


> I read in this thread about some modes uses "filter". I am sorry but what does that mean? I have the 6050 and I mainly watch UHD content with HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it a separate filter that you buy or is it something that the Epson already uses for some modes?


Cinema and Digital Cinema picture modes employ a filter inside the projector in the light path, designed to capture 100% of the DCI-P3 color gamut. That maximizes the degree of colors available to accentuate HDR performance. The filter does decrease light output by about 50%. For that reason some owners choose not to employ the filter, therefore they do not use those two picture modes. Many owners use Natural mode. Without the filter in place the Epson can still capture about 85% of that DCI-P3 color gamut. 


https://hometheaterhifi.com/technic...color-what-it-means-in-todays-ultra-hd-world/


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

After months of waiting and feeling like this day would never come, I'm finally done with my theater room build. The final peice was adding the Epson. 

Equipment:
-Roku Ultra 4K
-Oppo 203
-Yamaha RXA 3050
-Silver Ticket Widescreen 125"
-Epson 5050UB
-Def Tech Studio monitor 55s Left/Right 
-Def Tech HD8060 Center
-Polk Audio FXI A4 Side/Rear Surrounds
-2 Martin Login 700 wireless Subs
-Sanus Black Speaker Stands
-Salamander AV 3 Shelf Stand
-Rosco TV Black Paint

The wiring and install was done by Remote A/V here in Naperville IL, I highly recommend them for anyone in the area. They even helped me move my sectional couch from my storage room. Now I will spend a few days fine running the sound and picture, I'll probably input the calibration settings from this thread and go from there. Thanks to everyone who posts comments, it's really helped me understand projectors.


----------



## skylarlove1999

@mon2479 Welcome to the family. Sounds like an amazing theater. Enjoy.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

The pictures seem to be broken for me maybe you could try adding them again. Can anyone else see them?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DaGamePimp said:


> When I updated the 4010 it lit up all the indicator lights and then they flashed while the firmware was updating (I also used a usb stick with a read indication light).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was just about to start the pre 1.03 firmware reads this evening but not sure if there is truly any interest in this since people will just do the update and see for themselves.
> 
> 
> 
> I was considering doing an interactive live stream (on YT) of the pre/post reads but my capture device is delayed and will not be here until the 8th (I was going to use a nice 4K Panasonic camera vs a webcam or phone). I don't know that there would be any interest in this either (obviously there are many other more important IRL things going on).
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


Thanks Jason. I had mistakenly put the instruction PDF and firmware release notes on the USB as well as the BIN file. I got it updated.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

Made some comments on another forum. Copying them here:


New firmware observations:
- tone mapping updated for HDR: it’s a bit brighter but also cuts less highlights. In fact, highlights seem to stay better defined even in higher slider levels on some movies.
- Colours seem brighter and bette contoured / natural due to updated tone mapping for HDR
- they have done something with pixel shifting. The actual pixel pattern you see on the screen is slightly different. I think they may be flashing the panels in 3 positions now, not just 2: they also do a flash in the middle between the two previous positions. This could deliver just a tad more brightness as well and could be why some people think there’s a tad more sharpness, although just remember that a brighter image will appear to be sharper even if nothing else changes!!!

the pixel shifting has just a tad more flicker but you can only see it when you pixel peep. I think it’s because they seem to be flashing the panels 3x now, not 2. This is all just a guess at this point but that’s how it looks to me.


----------



## rollon1980

And one more...


Well, I watched quite a bit of material now with the new firmware and pixel-peeped on quite a few, stuff that was prepared with 4K DIs and it certainly looks like the panels are put into 3 positions now, not 2! So instead of getting 2 x 1080p resolution, it is giving 3x 1080p. 

I’d like others to confirm this but that’s how it looks. Previously I could very well see the two positions. Now it looks like they are blending those with a 3rd. That is superb news if true!!! Looks sharper too so I dialed back the sharpness control to 0 on my Panasonic. I had it on 1 previously!


----------



## biglen

When installing the new update, just hold the power button down first, then plug in the power, or do you have to do both at the same exact time?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> When installing the new update, just hold the power button down first, then plug in the power, or do you have to do both at the same exact time?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Unplug the power cord, insert the USB stick, press and continue to hold the power while plugging the power cord back into the projector. Once the two orange lights and the power button are lit up you can let go of the power button. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Unplug the power cord, insert the USB stick, press and continue to hold the power while plugging the power cord back into the projector. Once the two orange lights and the power button are lit up you can let go of the power button.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Great, thanks !

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> OK watch something I have watched in it’s entirety ‘ Valerian and the City of a Thousand Planets’.... here’s my thoughts.
> 
> 
> 
> I honestly don’t know what they have done but colours are more vivid than before IMHO and whether it’s the increase in brightness but contrast looks to have improved too though I couldn’t see how this is even possible but purely based on what my eyes are telling me it looks like that.
> 
> 
> 
> Still convinced e-shift has improved, the image overall has a polished look to it. Only thing I don’t think is different is motion, I do think it differs from movie to movie with some better than others.
> 
> 
> 
> Overall I’m a happy bunny.


Totally agree with your comments now that I have applied the firmware update to my 6050. IMHO the HDR improvement is not subtle. Brighter overall image, with things such as sunrises, sunsets, car tail lights/head lights, lights on police vehicles/ambulances, lasers and fire being much brighter but at the same time containing more detail in those spectral highlights. I suggest watching Guardians of the Galaxy two. The whole movie has really come alive.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawn Kelly

Is there any interest here in a custom anamorphic lens for the 6050? Not to make this a sales discussion but just checking to see if anybody has been thinking along those lines.


----------



## pete ramberg

I did the 103 software upgrade this morning. It works fine with the 5050.


What is obvious to me is the update to the basic frame rate/interpolation algorithm. I'm not taking about changing the frame interpolation setting (in fact, I am running image enhancement all the time, so frame interpolation is grayed out).

Before, every time that news "crawls" were displayed on the bottom of the screen (CNN, ESPN, etc.), the crawl would "studder" as it moved across the screen. Now, there is no studder whatsoever.

Not sure about other refinements, but clearly a problem with the basic frame rate and interpolation was corrected. 

I remember that on the predecessors, activating frame interpolation would add frames between current frames, but the algorithm would give up if too much movement was going on between frames with the original source. The algorithm would try to insert or add a frame between the original 2 frames, but if those frames were widely different from each other, the algorithm would give up and "studder" would be seen.

Pretty sure that the upgrade addresses this issue with the 5050/9400.


----------



## biglen

Maybe my eyes are bad, but I'm not seeing any difference after the update. Maybe I need to watch more, but so far, I don't see it. I keep my slider on 5, and I didn't feel it was any brighter. I watched The Martian and John Wick 2 scenes so far. The Martian is a disc playing on my Panasonic 420, that handles the tone mapping, and John Wick 2, a rip, was watched on my Shield, which let's the 5050 handle the tone mapping. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Maybe my eyes are bad, but I'm not seeing any difference after the update. Maybe I need to watch more, but so far, I don't see it. I keep my slider on 5, and I didn't feel it was any brighter. I watched The Martian and John Wick 2 scenes so far. The Martian is a disc playing on my Panasonic 420, that handles the tone mapping, and John Wick 2, a rip, was watched on my Shield, which let's the 5050 handle the tone mapping.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I assume you checked the projector information and that the firmware update went through for you correct? Maybe try High lamp mode and digital cinema so you are comparing somewhat Apples to Apples even though all of us have different tweaks our projector settings

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## pete ramberg

Frame interpolation is clearly better. I proved it to myself this morning. It was the first thing I noticed - and would be a firmware-capable update.

The brightness/contrast/HDR thing is a little harder for me to understand being changed with a firmware upgrade. Perhaps gamma/tone mapping - maybe....




biglen said:


> Maybe my eyes are bad, but I'm not seeing any difference after the update. Maybe I need to watch more, but so far, I don't see it. I keep my slider on 5, and I didn't feel it was any brighter. I watched The Martian and John Wick 2 scenes so far. The Martian is a disc playing on my Panasonic 420, that handles the tone mapping, and John Wick 2, a rip, was watched on my Shield, which let's the 5050 handle the tone mapping.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

pete ramberg said:


> Frame interpolation is clearly better. I proved it to myself this morning. It was the first thing I noticed - and would be a firmware-capable update.
> 
> 
> 
> The brightness/contrast/HDR thing is a little harder for me to understand being changed with a firmware upgrade. Perhaps gamma/tone mapping - maybe....


Also screen size and room likely effect more or less for some. I project onto a 180" 16x9 image and it definitely has more punch and is better for me, similarly on the HDR slider. Having said that I force everything to SDR normally since it is much more consistent across media and streaming sources. I may reconsider that now and give it another shot, but is is infuriating to me that there is so much inconsistency and differences in implementations.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

Just trying to add a little clarity to my expectations before I do the upgrade.

1.) If I'm streaming from Apple TV am I getting the same added (in theory) boost on the HDR/brightness?

2.) When I watch my Panasonic 420 I have it set to HDR and it does the tone mapping. Will the Epson upgrade still give it the added pop running it that way?

As a side note since it's been brought up recently is my observation running the projector in Digital Cinema. To my surprise my 150" 16:9 screen, especially tone mapped with the 420, is way brighter than I was expecting when I purchased this projector. I had read that most find that far too dim and unusable on a screen of any size and I find that it has plenty of pop. I'm currently using a Carada brilliant white and according to Accucal the screen gain is 1.04 so it's not like the screen is doing a lot of heavy lifting. Granted what I consider "plenty of pop" is subjective but considering I came from an Epson 3700 I was used to a pretty bright picture.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> Just trying to add a little clarity to my expectations before I do the upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.) If I'm streaming from Apple TV am I getting the same added (in theory) boost on the HDR/brightness?
> 
> 
> 
> 2.) When I watch my Panasonic 420 I have it set to HDR and it does the tone mapping. Will the Epson upgrade still give it the added pop running it that way?
> 
> 
> 
> As a side note since it's been brought up recently is my observation running the projector in Digital Cinema. To my surprise my 150" 16:9 screen, especially tone mapped with the 420, is way brighter than I was expecting when I purchased this projector. I had read that most find that far too dim and unusable on a screen of any size and I find that it has plenty of pop. I'm currently using a Carada brilliant white and according to Accucal the screen gain is 1.04 so it's not like the screen is doing a lot of heavy lifting. Granted what I consider "plenty of pop" is subjective but considering I came from an Epson 3700 I was used to a pretty bright picture.


I find that streaming benefits from whatever the firmware update added to HDR performance. I have my Panasonic 820 set to HDR as well. I believe the overall picture is brighter for SDR and HDR. HDR performance is increased for reasons I mentioned earlier. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

jaredmwright said:


> Also screen size and room likely effect more or less for some. I project onto a 180" 16x9 image and it definitely has more punch and is better for me, similarly on the HDR slider. Having said that I force everything to SDR normally since it is much more consistent across media and streaming sources. I may reconsider that now and give it another shot, but is is infuriating to me that there is so much inconsistency and differences in implementations.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I have a 130" scope image, in a room that's 100% dark. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> I assume you checked the projector information and that the firmware update went through for you correct? Maybe try High lamp mode and digital cinema so you are comparing somewhat Apples to Apples even though all of us have different tweaks our projector settings
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes, it ends in 103. I'm using high lamp and digital cinema. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## i007spectre

What is the name of the .bin file for the update. Want to make sure I downloaded the correct one from the UK site for the EH-TW9400W. Ive got this one EPSONPJ_H928YRC012.bin, but the website says its only V 1.02 but it was posted on May 22.


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Yes, it ends in 103. I'm using high lamp and digital cinema.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Maybe because of the calibration that Kevin Miller did for you you're not going to see any Improvement LOL 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Maybe because of the calibration that Kevin Miller did for you you're not going to see any Improvement LOL
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I'm thinking maybe his calibration was so dialed in, and that's why I don't see an improvement. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I'm thinking maybe his calibration was so dialed in, and that's why I don't see an improvement.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That could be an absolute fact 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Sorny said:


> Going to load 103 on my 5050 tonight when I get home from work. Got tired of waiting for Epson US to post it, so pulled it from the UK site.



Wait, you can do this on the 5050 too?


And did someone say I could actually read the ticker at the bottom of espn if I do this???


How far back in the thread do I need to go to learn how to do this?


----------



## Porknz

Thinking of spending more money on another 50ft fiber optic cable to see if that gets my projector working again. 



What are you all using for fiber optic hdmi?


Thanks.


----------



## Pretorian

skylarlove1999 said:


> Cinema and Digital Cinema picture modes employ a filter inside the projector in the light path, designed to capture 100% of the DCI-P3 color gamut. That maximizes the degree of colors available to accentuate HDR performance. The filter does decrease light output by about 50%. For that reason some owners choose not to employ the filter, therefore they do not use those two picture modes. Many owners use Natural mode. Without the filter in place the Epson can still capture about 85% of that DCI-P3 color gamut.
> 
> 
> https://hometheaterhifi.com/technic...color-what-it-means-in-todays-ultra-hd-world/
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Good answer. I currently have Bright Cinema. Maybe I should try one of those and see how it looks.


----------



## wookiegr

Is it me or is the 5050UB impossible to buy now?


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Thinking of spending more money on another 50ft fiber optic cable to see if that gets my projector working again.
> 
> 
> 
> What are you all using for fiber optic hdmi?
> 
> 
> Thanks.


I use this Furui cable. Prime members get 20% off.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-FURUI-H...gbps+100&qid=1591206930&sprefix=furui+&sr=8-1

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Pretorian said:


> Good answer. I currently have Bright Cinema. Maybe I should try one of those and see how it looks.



You guys are making me think I need to do more than plug the thing in and use it...


----------



## skylarlove1999

wookiegr said:


> Is it me or is the 5050UB impossible to buy now?


Very hard to find a 5050/6050 right now. Crutchfield has them in stock.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> Yes, it ends in 103. I'm using high lamp and digital cinema.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Iam thinking that I usually change a lamp after a year maybe I should be using high lamp mode. I say this because in testing the new firmware I switched to high lamp mode and was very impressed with what I saw. I am not one to talk about fan noise but was surprised by the lack of noise. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## aoaaron

Hi guys, my epson is coming tommorow. Any guides please on how to update the firmware? I'm from the UK


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

deleted

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> Iam thinking that I usually change a lamp after a year maybe I should be using high lamp mode. I say this because in testing the new firmware I switched to high lamp mode and was very impressed with what I saw. I am not one to talk about fan noise but was surprised by the lack of noise.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


For HDR using the digital cinema you should certainly use the high lamp if you always replace the lamp after a year I don't think most Epson lamps need to be replaced until about 2500 hours. I use low lamp and Natural for HDR . High lamp and Digital Cinema for HDR. Medium lamp and Natural for SDR sports.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

deleted

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


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## skylarlove1999

Angelo_Verbeke said:


> i have buy them here for 2132 euro. now it is 2600euro.


Pricing, other than MSRP, is not allowed in owners thread. Please don't quote me if you are going to break forum rules in your post. Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

sorry dont know that. 

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Angelo_Verbeke said:


> sorry dont know that.
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


Please remove all link and references to price. Thank you.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Angelo_Verbeke

how can i remove it?thxs


----------



## skylarlove1999

Angelo_Verbeke said:


> how can i remove it?thxs


Click on quote on your own post and then choose edit. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Angelo_Verbeke

deleted


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk[/QUOTE]


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

edit



Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk[/QUOTE


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

[QUOTE



Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk[/QUOTE]


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

stupid tapatalk. damn. excuses for that. 

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Please stop I beg you 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## Angelo_Verbeke

skylarlove1999 said:


> Please stop I beg you
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


no need to begfind it out now. omg what a noob. 
all deleted nowthanks 

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Angelo_Verbeke said:


> no need to begfind it out now. omg what a noob.
> all deleted nowthanks
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


LOL









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

skylarlove1999 said:


> LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


on avs i lost always my way.
another thing. i have 4 calibrated profiles on my tw 9400.but if i do the firmware update do i lose my profiles?









Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


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## covsound1

Angelo_Verbeke said:


> on avs i lost always my way.
> another thing. i have 4 calibrated profiles on my tw 9400.but if i do the firmware update do i lose my profiles?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


No you keep what you have. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

covsound1 said:


> No you keep what you have.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


ok cool. but maby i let it do it in the shop. next week i go back for another calibrated profile for sdr cinema. the shop or i try it by myself. 

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

This pic high lamp cinema mode hdr daylight in the room. A little over exposed.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

i use htpc with madvr. this i a pic on sdr natural.

hdr planet eart tonemapping to sdr bt2020
and last terminator in hdr. 

but i need a sdr profile on cinema mode
not bad so far.









Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## Sorny

Got 103 installed last night. Being lazy, I fired up Disney+ and checked out Rise of Skywalker. It looked grainy, so not sure if it is a streaming issue or what. I'll put in the UHD Blu Ray and compare tonight after work.

I normally run HDR slider at 3-5 on my 120" 1.0 gain screen, and left it at 5. 

There is *definitely* more "pop" on the highlights. Digital Cinema, high lamp, iris wide open, high speed dynamic Iris. The bright stuff, like lightsabers and blaster/laser bolts were *very* intense. As was the lightning. I had to turn down image preset value to 1 from my "normal" of 2 or 3. It also looks to me like the black floor was improved; the black bars (ok, dark gray), looked darker most of the time throughout the movie. Now, I'm black velveted and black rugs about 7' out from the screen, but the bars looked darker overall nonetheless.

I can't say for sure they changed anything with the pixel shifting, but I did get right up on the screen and it looks different than before; hard to pin exactly what is different, but even up within a few inches of the screen, I was hard pressed to see any SDE or pixels. I'll have to repeat the experiment with the 4k disc version and different presets.


Overall, it seems brighter on bright stuff, darker on dark stuff, and needs less "enhancement" post 103 firmware. 

I wasn't sure what HDR was supposed to do for sure until last night; now I have an idea of what it's all about. Like I said, the lightsabers, blasters, and lightning were exceptionally bright, and that's off of a streaming source. I'm pretty happy with the changes.

I think watching the 4k disc will allow me to have a more concrete opinion, especially with regards to image preset changes and HDR slider adjustments. I'm likely to put the HDR slider at the default 8 value and see how the overall picture looks. Then play with the image presets.


----------



## covsound1

Sorny said:


> Got 103 installed last night. Being lazy, I fired up Disney+ and checked out Rise of Skywalker. It looked grainy, so not sure if it is a streaming issue or what. I'll put in the UHD Blu Ray and compare tonight after work.
> 
> I normally run HDR slider at 3-5 on my 120" 1.0 gain screen, and left it at 5.
> 
> There is *definitely* more "pop" on the highlights. Digital Cinema, high lamp, iris wide open, high speed dynamic Iris. The bright stuff, like lightsabers and blaster/laser bolts were *very* intense. As was the lightning. I had to turn down image preset value to 1 from my "normal" of 2 or 3. It also looks to me like the black floor was improved; the black bars (ok, dark gray), looked darker most of the time throughout the movie. Now, I'm black velveted and black rugs about 7' out from the screen, but the bars looked darker overall nonetheless.
> 
> I can't say for sure they changed anything with the pixel shifting, but I did get right up on the screen and it looks different than before; hard to pin exactly what is different, but even up within a few inches of the screen, I was hard pressed to see any SDE or pixels. I'll have to repeat the experiment with the 4k disc version and different presets.
> 
> 
> Overall, it seems brighter on bright stuff, darker on dark stuff, and needs less "enhancement" post 103 firmware.
> 
> I wasn't sure what HDR was supposed to do for sure until last night; now I have an idea of what it's all about. Like I said, the lightsabers, blasters, and lightning were exceptionally bright, and that's off of a streaming source. I'm pretty happy with the changes.
> 
> I think watching the 4k disc will allow me to have a more concrete opinion, especially with regards to image preset changes and HDR slider adjustments. I'm likely to put the HDR slider at the default 8 value and see how the overall picture looks. Then play with the image presets.


 Before update i would never do anything past 8 now i find 10 usable when no lights in the room.


----------



## Fox1966

The 1.03 Firmware is now on the Epson US Firmware site, whoohoo! Can't wait to hear more impressions!


----------



## pete ramberg

Porknz said:


> Wait, you can do this on the 5050 too?
> 
> 
> And did someone say I could actually read the ticker at the bottom of espn if I do this???
> 
> 
> How far back in the thread do I need to go to learn how to do this?


I'm the guy who said that the news/sports crawl at the bottom of the screen does not have any studder or judder to it now.

It is the first thing I noticed after doing the 103 firmware update. 

The projector's native frame rate is 120 fps. Sending it a 60 fps signal means that the projector is doing something to the 60 fps signal to map each frame to the 120 fps output. I believe that the firmware addresses this and has changed the algorithm it uses to interpolate the doubled frame.

It makes total sense that a software update could do this change to the algorithm the projector was using to display the 120 frames per second from the 60 frames per second it is sent.


it is an obvious difference in the "ticker" or crawl on the bottom of the screen from CNN or ESPN. To me, that's just visual proof that the change is addressing the frame rate/interpolation software.


----------



## rollon1980

pete ramberg said:


> Porknz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, you can do this on the 5050 too?
> 
> 
> And did someone say I could actually read the ticker at the bottom of espn if I do this???
> 
> 
> How far back in the thread do I need to go to learn how to do this?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm the guy who said that the news/sports crawl at the bottom of the screen does not have any studder or judder to it now.
> 
> It is the first thing I noticed after doing the 103 firmware update.
> 
> The projector's native frame rate is 120 fps. Sending it a 60 fps signal means that the projector is doing something to the 60 fps signal to map each frame to the 120 fps output. I believe that the firmware addresses this and has changed the algorithm it uses to interpolate the doubled frame.
> 
> It makes total sense that a software update could do this change to the algorithm the projector was using to display the 120 frames per second from the 60 frames per second it is sent.
> 
> 
> it is an obvious difference in the "ticker" or crawl on the bottom of the screen from CNN or ESPN. To me, that's just visual proof that the change is addressing the frame rate.
Click to expand...

Your news broadcast is running at 30 fps, not 60, so interpolation up from 30 to 60 then maybe to 120hz. 

The native framerate the Epson is capable of internally is 480!!!!!! That’s how they can do pixel shifting and also 3D without any flicker. 😉 but the chips can only do around 120hz internally, I don’t know if they interpolate upto 120hz tho. Maybe.


----------



## rollon1980

Someone else mentioned that the pixel structure has changed. 

This is something I am confident of as well. As I said, the panels are now moved into 3 positions at the minimum when pixel shifting, not only 2. The 3rd position is exactly in between the previous two. 

I would really like someone to ask Epson Japan otherwise I will!


----------



## pete ramberg

rollon1980 said:


> Your news broadcast is running at 30 fps, not 60, so interpolation up from 30 to 60 then maybe to 120hz.
> 
> The native framerate the Epson is capable of internally is 480!!!!!! That’s how they can do pixel shifting and also 3D without any flicker. 😉 but the chips can only do around 120hz internally, I don’t know if they interpolate upto 120hz tho. Maybe.


Directv is my source - they output at 60 fps.


----------



## rollon1980

pete ramberg said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your news broadcast is running at 30 fps, not 60, so interpolation up from 30 to 60 then maybe to 120hz.
> 
> The native framerate the Epson is capable of internally is 480!!!!!! Thatâ€™️s how they can do pixel shifting and also 3D without any flicker. 😉 but the chips can only do around 120hz internally, I donâ€™️t know if they interpolate upto 120hz tho. Maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> Directv is my source - they output at 60 fps.
Click to expand...

I’m stuck in NTSC days. Yup, makes sense. 🙂


----------



## misterg51

Fox1966 said:


> The 1.03 Firmware is now on the Epson US Firmware site, whoohoo! Can't wait to hear more impressions!


Mine still says 1.01...... hmmm


----------



## misterg51

misterg51 said:


> Mine still says 1.01...... hmmm


in two places on page 1.01 and 1.03 meh


----------



## pete ramberg

rollon1980 said:


> I’m stuck in NTSC days. Yup, makes sense. 🙂


OMG!!! An antenna??


----------



## gunlife

I will say you guys have me excited as much as when I updated from my epson 4000 to the 5050! Putting it on a usb stick now!


----------



## Sekosche

So far so good with 1.03! Have to calibrate a little subwoofer now then I’ll be ready to finally rock. I’m glad I picked up the Panny 420, because I recently tried playing a Blu-ray a few times for the kids in the Sony 800 and it locked up at the title screen 3 times in a row, seems to be so random with that player.


----------



## BIC2

skylarlove1999 said:


> Unplug the power cord, insert the USB stick, press and continue to hold the power while plugging the power cord back into the projector. Once the two orange lights and the power button are lit up you can let go of the power button.


Unfortunately, not working for me. Reformatted USB drive with FAT32. BIN file is only file following reformat. Two orange & one blue light come on, I let go of power button and a few seconds later, projector shuts off. Check version, stays at 1.01.

Called Epson, he wouldn't help since he couldn't find update on web site. Said 1.01 is where I should be. How long does PJ go through visible update motions? Instructions say about 75 seconds. Can somebody provide the firmware web link? I can't find it. Thanks.


----------



## BIC2

Fox1966 said:


> The 1.03 Firmware is now on the Epson US Firmware site, whoohoo! Can't wait to hear more impressions!


Link, please.


----------



## covsound1

BIC2 said:


> Unfortunately, not working for me. Reformatted USB drive with FAT32. BIN file is only file following reformat. Two orange & one blue light come on, I let go of power button and a few seconds later, projector shuts off. Check version, stays at 1.01.
> 
> Called Epson, he wouldn't help since he couldn't find update on web site. Said 1.01 is where I should be. How long does PJ go through visible update motions? Instructions say about 75 seconds. Can somebody provide the firmware web link? I can't find it. Thanks.


 Sometimes its the usb. Try a different brand.


----------



## Sekosche

BIC2 said:


> Unfortunately, not working for me. Reformatted USB drive with FAT32. BIN file is only file following reformat. Two orange & one blue light come on, I let go of power button and a few seconds later, projector shuts off. Check version, stays at 1.01.
> 
> Called Epson, he wouldn't help since he couldn't find update on web site. Said 1.01 is where I should be. How long does PJ go through visible update motions? Instructions say about 75 seconds. Can somebody provide the firmware web link? I can't find it. Thanks.



Did you try a couple times? Mine worked on the second attempt, but the first time it just booted as normal while I held down power. Hold down on the power button as you plug in the cable and only takes a second or two for the orange lights to all light up and the fan to ramp up to max as it initiates the firmware upgrade. As mentioned, maybe try a different flash drive.


----------



## skylarlove1999

BIC2 said:


> Unfortunately, not working for me. Reformatted USB drive with FAT32. BIN file is only file following reformat. Two orange & one blue light come on, I let go of power button and a few seconds later, projector shuts off. Check version, stays at 1.01.
> 
> 
> 
> Called Epson, he wouldn't help since he couldn't find update on web site. Said 1.01 is where I should be. How long does PJ go through visible update motions? Instructions say about 75 seconds. Can somebody provide the firmware web link? I can't find it. Thanks.


I have found the cheaper the better for the USB drive for it to work with updates with Epson projectors if you really get stuck let me know I can mail you one that already has the file on there that I know works

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

Tried 3 thumb drives. Nothing. Fan on high & all 3 lights come on steady for 5 seconds then blue light flashes 5 times. Then shuts down.


----------



## gunlife

For the guys that cant get it to upload.... I had to try 3 times to get to work!

Quick impressions. They deffinently changed the gamma curves. Highlights are a bit brighter and blacks are a bit better. That only applies to hdr mode. Sdr seem the same.
I still like the panasonic sdr tone mapping better. Little better black floor on the panny but now the 5050 tone mapping gives better highlights... so personal preference will come into play. 

I saw no difference in motion. Also I notice zero difference with the pixel shifting even with text and putting my face up agianst the screen. 

Its not a game changing update imo. Nothing like the first update for the 5040/4000 that made hdr usable.


----------



## BIC2

OK, I'm an idiot. Even with all the lights on, my theater is kind of dark. Using light from phone, I see what looks like a USB port. Upon reading label, it's the optical HDMI. Look for the one that actually says USB.


----------



## DaGamePimp

BIC2 said:


> Tried 3 thumb drives. Nothing. Fan on high & all 3 lights come on steady for 5 seconds then blue light flashes 5 times. Then shuts down.


Just a thought....

Are you using the correct USB port, the one close to the middle (near the ethernet port) is the correct one to use, not the one next to HDMI port 1.

* You figured it out while I was typing (I initially did the same thing when I updated the 4010). 

- Jason


----------



## rollon1980

pete ramberg said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iâ€™️m stuck in NTSC days. Yup, makes sense. 🙂
> 
> 
> 
> OMG!!! An antenna?? /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Lol! Nah, I meant my head. I’m in Oz so never used NTSC apart from some US DVDs. 😉


----------



## rollon1980

gunlife said:


> For the guys that cant get it to upload.... I had to try 3 times to get to work!
> 
> Quick impressions. They deffinently changed the gamma curves. Highlights are a bit brighter and blacks are a bit better. That only applies to hdr mode. Sdr seem the same.
> I still like the panasonic sdr tone mapping better. Little better black floor on the panny but now the 5050 tone mapping gives better highlights... so personal preference will come into play.
> 
> I saw no difference in motion. Also I notice zero difference with the pixel shifting even with text and putting my face up agianst the screen.
> 
> Its not a game changing update imo. Nothing like the first update for the 5040/4000 that made hdr usable.


This is interesting! One thing I will say:

Using the panel alignment function cuts resolution as it seems like digital trickery so I don’t use it. My panels are aligned quite well.

I do notice pixel structure changes as I was always fascinated with how Epson versus JVC did pixel shifting and on 24hz material at least, the structure looks different now!

Also keep in mind my screen is blown up to 150” (130” CinemaScope) so the pixels are a lot more visible.

With previous firmware I could clearly see the two pixel shift positions in a very defined manner. Now the two are blended like a line so there has to be something they are doing differently. 

On 60hz material I am not sure yet. I haven’t tested gaming!


----------



## Hawkmarket

BIC2 said:


> Link, please.


Apparently I'm an idiot because I can't find the link on their US site. Can anyone help the slow guy?


----------



## DaGamePimp

I am still gathering as much 'pre' 1.03 data as I can (measures, reads, pictures, etc.) so I have yet to update. 

- Jason


----------



## gunlife

rollon1980 said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> For the guys that cant get it to upload.... I had to try 3 times to get to work!
> 
> Quick impressions. They deffinently changed the gamma curves. Highlights are a bit brighter and blacks are a bit better. That only applies to hdr mode. Sdr seem the same.
> I still like the panasonic sdr tone mapping better. Little better black floor on the panny but now the 5050 tone mapping gives better highlights... so personal preference will come into play.
> 
> I saw no difference in motion. Also I notice zero difference with the pixel shifting even with text and putting my face up agianst the screen.
> 
> Its not a game changing update imo. Nothing like the first update for the 5040/4000 that made hdr usable.
> 
> 
> 
> This is interesting! One thing I will say:
> 
> Using the panel alignment function cuts resolution as it seems like digital trickery so I don’t use it. My panels are aligned quite well.
> 
> I do notice pixel structure changes as I was always fascinated with how Epson versus JVC did pixel shifting and on 24hz material at least, the structure looks different now!
> 
> Also keep in mind my screen is blown up to 150” (130” CinemaScope) so the pixels are a lot more visible.
> 
> With previous firmware I could clearly see the two pixel shift positions in a very defined manner. Now the two are blended like a line so there has to be something they are doing differently.
> 
> On 60hz material I am not sure yet. I haven’t tested gaming!
Click to expand...

To each their own. I do have a smaller screen and I did turn off and then redo my panel alignment. I only was able to notice the gamma corrections they made to hdr. Doesnt mean iam not blind! 

I will say about the motion... iam sensitive to motion. I almost ponied up for the sony 295 to get better motion.... Sadly I noticed no difference in normal panning scenes. 

Still love my 5050!


----------



## DaGamePimp

Hawkmarket said:


> Apparently I'm an idiot because I can't find the link on their US site. Can anyone help the slow guy?


When I grabbed the US version it had the 5050/6050 listed twice, I think it was the lower listing that has 1.03. 

- Jason


----------



## Hawkmarket

DaGamePimp said:


> When I grabbed the US version it had the 5050/6050 listed twice, I think it was the lower listing that has 1.03.
> 
> - Jason


I see nothing on the US site. I just looked on the UK site and it says 1.02. That's it. 
https://www.epson.co.uk/products/pr...eh-tw9400w?productfinder=epson+9400#downloads


----------



## gunlife

Ctrl+f. Then type in 5050 on us site and go through the findings.


----------



## Hawkmarket

gunlife said:


> Ctrl+f. Then type in 5050 on us site and go through the findings.


Nothing. I can get right to the 1.02 on the UK site but see nothing on the US site for a firmware update.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Hawkmarket said:


> I see nothing on the US site. I just looked on the UK site and it says 1.02. That's it.
> https://www.epson.co.uk/products/pr...eh-tw9400w?productfinder=epson+9400#downloads


On the US site it is still listed twice for some reason and it is the lower listing that shows 1.03. If you scroll to the bottom of the page and then go up until you see the 5050/6050 it's there (I just checked it).

* 1.02 on the UK site is actually 1.03, and it's the same as the US release (that's been confirmed). 

- Jason


----------



## Hawkmarket

DaGamePimp said:


> On the US site it is still listed twice for some reason and it is the lower listing that shows 1.03. If you scroll to the bottom of the page and then go up until you see the 5050/6050 it's there (I just checked it).
> 
> * 1.02 on the UK site is actually 1.03, and it's the same as the US release (that's been confirmed).
> 
> - Jason


I'm tapping out. I have a blind spot. Can you just throw up the link for the US site? I have been on the UK and Australia site and can walk right to it but the US site is apparently beyond my abilities.


----------



## Porknz

Anyone else suggestions as to what fiber optic hdmi they are using? Looking to buy a new one to replace the one I have to see if that helps the dropped pictures. Thanks for any info on what you are using.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> I'm tapping out. I have a blind spot. Can you just throw up the link for the US site? I have been on the UK and Australia site and can walk right to it but the US site is apparently beyond my abilities.


For anyone who needs it . Link will only work through 6/15. Download just the BIN file.

https://spaces.hightail.com/receive/AAzFYDqAKi/dGhlam9uZXM5MTJAdmVyaXpvbi5uZXQ=

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

gunlife said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> For the guys that cant get it to upload.... I had to try 3 times to get to work!
> 
> Quick impressions. They deffinently changed the gamma curves. Highlights are a bit brighter and blacks are a bit better. That only applies to hdr mode. Sdr seem the same.
> I still like the panasonic sdr tone mapping better. Little better black floor on the panny but now the 5050 tone mapping gives better highlights... so personal preference will come into play.
> 
> I saw no difference in motion. Also I notice zero difference with the pixel shifting even with text and putting my face up agianst the screen.
> 
> Its not a game changing update imo. Nothing like the first update for the 5040/4000 that made hdr usable.
> 
> 
> 
> This is interesting! One thing I will say:
> 
> Using the panel alignment function cuts resolution as it seems like digital trickery so I don’t use it. My panels are aligned quite well.
> 
> I do notice pixel structure changes as I was always fascinated with how Epson versus JVC did pixel shifting and on 24hz material at least, the structure looks different now!
> 
> Also keep in mind my screen is blown up to 150” (130” CinemaScope) so the pixels are a lot more visible.
> 
> With previous firmware I could clearly see the two pixel shift positions in a very defined manner. Now the two are blended like a line so there has to be something they are doing differently.
> 
> On 60hz material I am not sure yet. I haven’t tested gaming!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> To each their own. I do have a smaller screen and I did turn off and then redo my panel alignment. I only was able to notice the gamma corrections they made to hdr. Doesnt mean iam not blind!
> 
> I will say about the motion... iam sensitive to motion. I almost ponied up for the sony 295 to get better motion.... Sadly I noticed no difference in normal panning scenes.
> 
> Still love my 5050!
Click to expand...

I agree. I can’t see much difference re motion but I think on some material it could manifest so will trust the guys on that. 🙂 

It could be they are using frame interpolation which I don’t.


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> For anyone who needs it . Link will only work through 6/15. Download just the BIN file.
> 
> https://spaces.hightail.com/receive/AAzFYDqAKi/dGhlam9uZXM5MTJAdmVyaXpvbi5uZXQ=
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 You are very upstanding! Thankyou for all members that download. And yes same as the U.K.


----------



## Porknz

Ugh. I think I might have found the problem with the dropped screen at least. So my friend that helped me mount the projector on the ceiling, who doesn't have a projector or a fiber optic cable, took the cable and tied it around the post on the ceiling mount like a shoe, so that if it got pulled on the other end it wouldn't hurt he projector's hdmi connection, like crossing the fiber optic cable over itself and tightening it against the mounting post so that it stays and can't move. That probably means I should buy a new cable right? The way fiber optic works, that's real bad right?


----------



## jklow888

rollon1980 said:


> This is interesting! One thing I will say:
> 
> I do notice pixel structure changes as I was always fascinated with how Epson versus JVC did pixel shifting and on 24hz material at least, the structure looks different now!
> 
> Also keep in mind my screen is blown up to 150” (130” CinemaScope) so the pixels are a lot more visible.
> 
> With previous firmware I could clearly see the two pixel shift positions in a very defined manner. Now the two are blended like a line so there has to be something they are doing differently.
> 
> On 60hz material I am not sure yet. I haven’t tested gaming!


Agree with you on the observation of the pixel structure change - on 1.02 the pixels were clearly 2 and diagonal. On 1.03, if you look closely the shape looks like extended 3 diagonal pixels with a defined shape around it. It would be nice if Epson provided release notes to confirm what has been improved. To add, if this is an extra array of 1080p data it makes for an interesting proposition of a "3K" projector which indicates this series platform might have had enough processing power to do something like DTM but this implemented improvement seems to be something the engineers have chosen ahead of doing DTM to "compete" with another manufacturer.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Ugh. I think I might have found the problem with the dropped screen at least. So my friend that helped me mount the projector on the ceiling, who doesn't have a projector or a fiber optic cable, took the cable and tied it around the post on the ceiling mount like a shoe, so that if it got pulled on the other end it wouldn't hurt he projector's hdmi connection, like crossing the fiber optic cable over itself and tightening it against the mounting post so that it stays and can't move. That probably means I should buy a new cable right? The way fiber optic works, that's real bad right?


Yes. That would probably damage any fiber optic cable. Sorry to hear that you need to get a new cable. And a new friend. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes. That would probably damage any fiber optic cable. Sorry to hear that you need to get a new cable. And a new friend.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



 Any suggestions on what cable to buy? This is what I probably ruined...


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG7C25W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## covsound1

jklow888 said:


> Agree with you on the observation of the pixel structure change - on 1.02 the pixels were clearly 2 and diagonal. On 1.03, if you look closely the shape looks like extended 3 diagonal pixels with a defined shape around it. It would be nice if Epson provided release notes to confirm what has been improved. To add, if this is an extra array of 1080p data it makes for an interesting proposition of a "3K" projector which indicates this series platform might have had enough processing power to do something like DTM but this implemented improvement seems to be something the engineers have chosen ahead of doing DTM to "compete" with another manufacturer.


 Agree with the other another manufactures statement. Me never took the time to look at the pixel structure but something is not the same for the better. Some reviews stated the processing was not strong enough?


----------



## rollon1980

jklow888 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is interesting! One thing I will say:
> 
> I do notice pixel structure changes as I was always fascinated with how Epson versus JVC did pixel shifting and on 24hz material at least, the structure looks different now!
> 
> Also keep in mind my screen is blown up to 150â€ (130â€ CinemaScope) so the pixels are a lot more visible.
> 
> With previous firmware I could clearly see the two pixel shift positions in a very defined manner. Now the two are blended like a line so there has to be something they are doing differently.
> 
> On 60hz material I am not sure yet. I havenâ€™️t tested gaming!
> 
> 
> 
> Agree with you on the observation of the pixel structure change - on 1.02 the pixels were clearly 2 and diagonal. On 1.03, if you look closely the shape looks like extended 3 diagonal pixels with a defined shape around it. It would be nice if Epson provided release notes to confirm what has been improved. To add, if this is an extra array of 1080p data it makes for an interesting proposition of a "3K" projector which indicates this series platform might have had enough processing power to do something like DTM but this implemented improvement seems to be something the engineers have chosen ahead of doing DTM to "compete" with another manufacturer.
Click to expand...

Thank you for confirming I’m not going crazy! It does look like they are shifting into 3 positions now. The pixel structure is different. Of course considering that this might well also introduce a very slight blur (like on the 5040 without the pixel shift processor), I would imagine it would not provide a 3K image necessarily but somewhere between 2.5 and 3K. 

Having said that it is still noticeably sharper on large screens. My partner who came home last night after I did the update immediately said: “Oh wow, look. That looks really sharp!”

Have a look at the pixel structure on 24p versus 60hz material. I think there’s a slight difference too. I’ll have to do some back and forth. 

I’m not sure the Epson has the power for DTM but they did include 3 extra processors in there which I thought were overkill just to get a slight improvement from the previous gen. But just like with the previous gen, they are continuously improving it which is exciting. 

I don’t actually think the Epson is as much in need of DTM without the filter. With the filter in place, that’s another matter. Yes, please, if possible. 🙂


----------



## skylarlove1999

Porknz said:


> Any suggestions on what cable to buy? This is what I probably ruined...
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG7C25W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I use this Furui cable. Many people have found success with RUIPRO as well. 

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-FURUI-H...k+at+60hz+18.2gbps+100&qid=1591237070&sprefix

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sorny

Wow, the US site makes it impossible to find the firmware. By that I mean you click support, and it's not listed. That's super-mega-ultra-lame.

Granted, I installed the update last night from the UK site, where it's where you'd think; you know, direct link off the projector info page. Someone needs to smack the US web team upside the head with a clue-stick.


----------



## rollon1980

Watching Planet Earth II, colours and contrast (likely due to updated internal gamma tables) just look stunning, scene after scene. 

It’s never gonna be like my OLED but perceptually the new tone maps look much more realistic and closer to my properly calibrated OLED. Love it! 🙂

Sharpness has also increased on the content. 
Highlights have more detail and no crushing even on high HDR slider settings!
Dark areas are better delineated.

It’s a win all around.

If I had to guess, changes were:
- updated gamma tables for HDR 
- tweaked colour gamut / colour volume for HDR
- upped the bit-depth for colour processing just like JVC did so more detail can be displayed in dark and bright areas.
- updated pixel shifting and now it displays 3 x 1080p - at the very least on 24p material

It is just a lot more refined. 

Even games look heaps better. Just a great update.


----------



## DaGamePimp

First thing I checked after the 1.03 update was pixel structure and I can confirm that there is NO change with a 4K 60Hz signal.

* This was tested pre/post via a PC using a tracking/phase pattern where the pixel structure is very obvious right at the screen.


More to come...

High lamp FAN noise is definitely less obtrusive (although I did notice that when I turned off the auto iris the fans kicked into high gear).

Those sending SDR (Panasonic 420/820/9000) that also have a proper room... using a setting of -2 on Gamma equals a reasonable 2.4 gamma curve in Digital Cinema.

Color Temp 5 is the closest to 6500K out of the box in Digital Cinema (1.03).

Digital Cinema with High lamp is ~1 fL lower (post 1.03) than I had using Natural with Medium lamp plus the manual iris half way (1.01).

- I have ~800 hours on my lamp (most of it while set to Medium).


*Some bad news*, if you had a proper ISF/THX level calibration pre 1.03 it will no longer be accurate after 1.03 (they definitely made some adjustments). 

- I had just done a fresh calibration yesterday while on 1.01 to see where it would end up after 1.03, it's a good amount off post 1.03. It was under dE 1 across the board and after 1.03 it was dE 4 without touching a thing other than turning off auto iris (which is required during calibration).


*Good news*, it calibrated out really well and now looks even better over-all. 


- Jason


----------



## jorisdriesen

Just reading about the new firmware update, and that the improvements are mainly for HDR content. I'm using madVR to do the video processing, and it's outputting in SDR to the projector. (I've never even touched the HDR slider on the Epson.)

Would the firmware upgrades be noticeable for my situation as well, or would you need to have a real HDR signal to have the improvements ?


----------



## pete ramberg

Concerning the claim of possible update to pixel shifting with v103 firmware, could somebody with a smart phone camera video record the shifting in high-speed mode? I saw a You Tube video of 2x pixel shifting - shot with a high frame rate video phone camera - and the shifting was obvious and easy to see.

I don't have a smart phone capability, but if someone out there has the high-speed video option on theirs, it could confirm or refute the claim of 3x pixel shifting with the new firmware update.


----------



## wookiegr

Holy crap, I just ordered the 5050UB. My Theater is not nearly done yet so it will sit in a box for several months but at least I have it. Who knows what will happen to the market or what other series of ridiculous events will occur that will make stuff like this harder to get. I hate that all my theater gear has been sitting in boxes for over a year, two in some cases and now the projector will sit is storage too. By the time I finish my build all this still be be obsolete already!


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> For anyone who needs it . Link will only work through 6/15. Download just the BIN file.
> 
> https://spaces.hightail.com/receive/AAzFYDqAKi/dGhlam9uZXM5MTJAdmVyaXpvbi5uZXQ=
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks so much for adding this and I was able to complete the update.

I would describe myself as an enthusiast who knows enough to ask the right questions but offers zero expertise in any of this and doesn't own one piece of measuring equipment. I'm adding that disclaimer to go along with my impressions. I only watched digital cinema last night for about 20 minutes post update and it did seem brighter, quieter on high lamp and unless I didn't remember the content well enough the dark shadow detail seemed improved. I fully admit it could be the placebo effect and I'm spitting out what others have said and I was looking for going in but that was my impression. I appreciate those that are taking time to grab measurements to see what exactly is going on but I would say so far all seems positive. If I'm being honest had someone snuck in and updated it for me without me knowing it happened or the update existed I can't say that it would have immediately jumped out at me but given what I read and was looking for it does appear there has been an improvement. I've owned this projector since January and I will say I was thrilled with it before the update so it's all icing on the cake for me.


----------



## fredworld

Hawkmarket said:


> Thanks so much for adding this and I was able to complete the update.
> 
> I would describe myself as an enthusiast who knows enough to ask the right questions but offers zero expertise in any of this and doesn't own one piece of measuring equipment. I'm adding that disclaimer to go along with my impressions. I only watched digital cinema last night for about 20 minutes post update and it did seem brighter, quieter on high lamp and unless I didn't remember the content well enough the dark shadow detail seemed improved. I fully admit it could be the placebo effect and I'm spitting out what others have said and I was looking for going in but that was my impression. I appreciate those that are taking time to grab measurements to see what exactly is going on but I would say so far all seems positive. If I'm being honest had someone snuck in and updated it for me without me knowing it happened or the update existed I can't say that it would have immediately jumped out at me but given what I read and was looking for it does appear there has been an improvement. I've owned this projector since January and I will say I was thrilled with it before the update so it's all icing on the cake for me.



Reading the release notes in the link I don't recall noticing any of those issues with my 5050UB that v1.03 addresses. Also, I don't see where the notes mention any image improvement as described by posters. I wrote to Epson last week about the updating and the rep insisted the latest is on the website, which is v1.01. What am I missing? Is it wise to install an update not intended for our market?


----------



## Luminated67

Hawkmarket said:


> I'm tapping out. I have a blind spot. Can you just throw up the link for the US site? I have been on the UK and Australia site and can walk right to it but the US site is apparently beyond my abilities.


Why would you need to go to the US site when the update is available at both the UK and Australian sites. Just use either of these and download the firmware, job done.


----------



## Fox1966

I applied the update to my 5050 last night (from the US Epson website). It went smoothly, and I noticed the differences pretty much immediately. My projector is in a room that is only partially light controlled, and is about 13 feet away from a 100 inch screen. I use Digital Cinema mode almost exclusively in medium lamp mode (I watch a lot of 4k discs). 

What I noticed is pretty much the same thing that others have mentioned. There is no doubt that I am seeing more "pop" to the image...colors were more saturated. HDR is DEFINITELY improved. Although I loved the projector before the update, one thing that wasn't as good as I hoped was how dim some HDR movies looked in parts. That is definitely much improved! Blacks seem blacker, HDR highlights seem brighter, but most importantly the levels in between are all better (shadow detail greatly improved!). Parts that were very dim/dark before now seem just right. And the overall image seems sharper. The projector now checks off every single one of my boxes, and the picture is closer to my OLED tv.....I couldn't be happier and so glad I invested in an Epson!! I wasn't necessarily comfortable updating my firmware on a new projector, but man....I am glad I did!


----------



## Luminated67

DaGamePimp said:


> First thing I checked after the 1.03 update was pixel structure and I can confirm that there is NO change with a 4K 60Hz signal.
> 
> * This was tested pre/post via a PC using a tracking/phase pattern where the pixel structure is very obvious right at the screen.
> 
> 
> More to come...
> 
> High lamp FAN noise is definitely less obtrusive (although I did notice that when I turned off the auto iris the fans kicked into high gear).
> 
> Those sending SDR (Panasonic 420/820/9000) that also have a proper room... using a setting of -2 on Gamma equals a reasonable 2.4 gamma curve in Digital Cinema.
> 
> Color Temp 5 is the closest to 6500K out of the box in Digital Cinema (1.03).
> 
> Digital Cinema with High lamp is ~1 fL lower (post 1.03) than I had using Natural with Medium lamp plus the manual iris half way (1.01).
> 
> - I have ~800 hours on my lamp (most of it while set to Medium).
> 
> 
> *Some bad news*, if you had a proper ISF/THX level calibration pre 1.03 it will no longer be accurate after 1.03 (they definitely made some adjustments).
> 
> - I had just done a fresh calibration yesterday while on 1.01 to see where it would end up after 1.03, it's a good amount off post 1.03. It was under dE 1 across the board and after 1.03 it was dE 4 without touching a thing other than turning off auto iris (which is required during calibration).
> 
> 
> *Good news*, it calibrated out really well and now looks even better over-all.
> 
> 
> - Jason


Quick question, has the update altered the native contrast or ANSI contrast?


----------



## Hawkmarket

I'm linking the new Denon AVR thread and in post 30 (bottom of first page) it references "Dynamic HDR" and the ability optimize frame by frame. Is this something the AVR is now able to do that the projector can't which we see with the JVC's DTM or perhaps just some watered down version of it? I'm intrigued but not informed well enough to know exactly what it means. 

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-r...denon-avr-owner-s-thread-faq-posts-1-8-a.html


----------



## Hawkmarket

Luminated67 said:


> Why would you need to go to the US site when the update is available at both the UK and Australian sites. Just use either of these and download the firmware, job done.


UK was showing 1.2 and Australia was showing 1.3 but there was mention earlier of a potential bad outcome using an update from overseas on domestic units. Although I believed it was ultimately concluded to not be the case I elected to still just use the US update since it was available to avoid any potential problems. Mission accomplished thanks to the fine folks on this board.


----------



## DarrinH

Hawkmarket said:


> Apparently I'm an idiot because I can't find the link on their US site. Can anyone help the slow guy?


So where is it on the US site?


----------



## Hawkmarket

DarrinH said:


> So where is it on the US site?


Use the link on Skylarlove's post #6936 . Worked great for me.


----------



## Fox1966

DarrinH said:


> So where is it on the US site?


Is it ok to post a link to it on the Epson US site? I don't mind sharing a link, but I don't want to break any forum rules...


----------



## skylarlove1999

fredworld said:


> Reading the release notes in the link I don't recall noticing any of those issues with my 5050UB that v1.03 addresses. Also, I don't see where the notes mention any image improvement as described by posters. I wrote to Epson last week about the updating and the rep insisted the latest is on the website, which is v1.01. What am I missing? Is it wise to install an update not intended for our market?


I have contacts at Epson I can assure you that the firmware update does address picture improvements and also the firmware is the same everywhere

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> I'm linking the new Denon AVR thread and in post 30 (bottom of first page) it references "Dynamic HDR" and the ability optimize frame by frame. Is this something the AVR is now able to do that the projector can't which we see with the JVC's DTM or perhaps just some watered down version of it? I'm intrigued but not informed well enough to know exactly what it means.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-r...denon-avr-owner-s-thread-faq-posts-1-8-a.html


I would ask that question over in the Denon 2020 owners thread but I am 99% certain that is just a pass-through mode meaning they're saying this receiver will work with any projector that has Dynamic tone mapping such as the JVC 4K lineup. I'm 100% certain that the Denon receivers do not do Dynamic tone mapping in the receiver and then pass that to the projector. So far only one other manufacturer besides JVC has been able to figure out Dynamic tone mapping for projectors. Although I want to get more information from Epson because based upon what I'm seeing on my screen they definitely have been doing some tinkering. I don't know if it is dynamic tone mapping but it's definitely improved.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Fox1966 said:


> Is it ok to post a link to it on the Epson US site? I don't mind sharing a link, but I don't want to break any forum rules...


You would not be breaking any form rules to link to a firmware update

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Fox1966

skylarlove1999 said:


> You would not be breaking any form rules to link to a firmware update
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you Skylar!

In that case, here is the link to the US Firmware site...if you scroll down far enough, you will see the new 1.03 firmware for the 5050/6050 along with the link to download it and the directions for installation 

EDIT....sorry guys, every time I post the link, it somehow changes to go to the Epson Specials web page, which lists products and prices...so I have removed the link. If someone knows why this happens or a way around it, please let me know.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Fox1966 said:


> Thank you Skylar!
> 
> 
> 
> In that case, here is the link to the US Firmware site...if you scroll down far enough, you will see the new 1.03 firmware for the 5050/6050 along with the link to download it and the directions for installation
> 
> 
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805??...671&cjevent=5d85f85334c911ea81fa03700a24060f#


Thanks for posting that link.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

One of the biggest difference I find with this firmware update is that the contrast difference with using the color filter and not using the color filter is even bigger now. Using the color filter it's still my reference but I'm amazed with the contrast difference when not using it. I wish I had a negative gain screen so I could take full advantage .I have used the Iris to try to match the black levels. But this seems counter productive to me. I do agree with others a new calibration probably is in order. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Malodium

Fox1966 said:


> Thank you Skylar!
> 
> In that case, here is the link to the US Firmware site...if you scroll down far enough, you will see the new 1.03 firmware for the 5050/6050 along with the link to download it and the directions for installation
> 
> EDIT....sorry guys, every time I post the link, it somehow changes to go to the Epson Specials web page, which lists products and prices...so I have removed the link. If someone knows why this happens or a way around it, please let me know.



For the life of me I cannot find where to download this. I did find one firmware page but it listed version 1.01 for the 5050ub still.


Edit: I found it. For some reason that page has two spots where it lists firmware for the 5050. You have to go to the second one.


Here is the url:
https://epson.com/Support/wa00805
Dont click the link, just copy and paste the url into a new page. For some reason clicking the link wont take you to the right place.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Watching Pacific Rim 4k disc. Using Digital Cinema, high lamp and slider on 8. Auto Iris on high speed. The colors are so natural, but still saturated, shadow detail and specular highlights look fantastic. Skin tones look so natural. Never looked better.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

Luminated67 said:


> Quick question, has the update altered the native contrast or ANSI contrast?


The variables that I am seeing pre/post are within a margin of error from one read to another (as is typical) so I would have to say no there is not a significant enough difference to be visible.

That said, I plan to do more post 1.03 testing, I was up far too late last night and my eyes were so tired that they could not focus (staring at test patterns and a laptop screen for hours will do that). 

- Jason


----------



## Luminated67

DaGamePimp said:


> The variables that I am seeing pre/post are within a margin of error from one read to another (as is typical) so I would have to say no there is not a significant enough difference to be visible.
> 
> That said, I plan to do more post 1.03 testing, I was up far too late last night and my eyes were so tired that they could not focus (staring at test patterns and a laptop screen for hours will do that).
> 
> - Jason


I might have simply been the added brightness gave the impression that the blacks where that little bit deeper, likewise the shadows seemed to have better detail than before. Who know might be just my eyes playing tricks.

I need to go check out the earlier comment that’s member thought he was seeing 3 shifts and not 2 when using e-shift, if true that would be really something as I didn’t think such a thing would be possible from a firmware update and would probably require a design rethink.


----------



## Psylocke

So I just downloaded the firmware 1.03 from the link given. Has everybody used the USB stick method to do the update? Any tips? I am looking forward to trying it out. As I was typing this DHL came to my door with my HDFury Vertex2 HDMI switch box. I caved and bought one to try out the LLDV Dolby Vision hack.


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

Psylocke said:


> So I just downloaded the firmware 1.03 from the link given. Has everybody used the USB stick method to do the update? Any tips? I am looking forward to trying it out. As I was typing this DHL came to my door with my HDFury Vertex2 HDMI switch box. I caved and bought one to try out the LLDV Dolby Vision hack.


works fantastic this dv hack. i have a integral2. looks great on the 9400.used netflix and disney to watch. with a new shield pro. 

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> The variables that I am seeing pre/post are within a margin of error from one read to another (as is typical) so I would have to say no there is not a significant enough difference to be visible.
> 
> 
> 
> That said, I plan to do more post 1.03 testing, I was up far too late last night and my eyes were so tired that they could not focus (staring at test patterns and a laptop screen for hours will do that).
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


I've been trying to dial in bw cinema to look like cinema mode as far as color is concerned. I was startled by the contrasts . What did they do to make it feel like it's more?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## misterg51

*1.03*



misterg51 said:


> in two places on page 1.01 and 1.03 meh


Biggest change after a short view after the update, is fan noise. Right behind that is the colors appear to be refined and "right". I would like to say added clarity and not sharpness in the presentation. Edge definition without blooming, specular highlights have better attack and decay. Almost like when I switch to an Audioquest cable (I know, the oscilloscope says there is no difference, ones and zeros....). I want to congratulate the engineers on making a superb projector, even better. Time to start watching movies again. I do software support working from home these days and hate staring at screens at the end of the day. I added an Audioquest Powerquest 3 to filter 4/8K on the projector and video sources. It eliminated a large amount of noise that I thought my Furman power conditioner killed already (I was wrong). Combining the two seems to make the picture have depth and definition. I expect that many will say no way buddy, but I'm happy I've spent time researching and A/B testing blind in dealerships over the years, making the sales staff prove it isn't voodoo magic. The firmware is a great success improving my 5050. The worst part was the contortions to get the USB into the projector mounted on the ceiling, lol.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Luminated67 said:


> I might have simply been the added brightness gave the impression that the blacks where that little bit deeper, likewise the shadows seemed to have better detail than before. Who know might be just my eyes playing tricks.
> 
> I need to go check out the earlier comment that’s member thought he was seeing 3 shifts and not 2 when using e-shift, if true that would be really something as I didn’t think such a thing would be possible from a firmware update and would probably require a design rethink.





covsound1 said:


> I've been trying to dial in bw cinema to look like cinema mode as far as color is concerned. I was startled by the contrasts . What did they do to make it feel like it's more?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



I would guess that they tweaked the colors, gamma/EOTF, and the detail/4K enhancement algorithm (which might explain why people think they are seeing a different pixel structure).



* I forgot to mention in my previous 'findings' that my pixel alignment (only 1 click required) and focus were both very slightly altered after the 1.03 update, I had to do those before proceeding with my testing. With the pixel shifting projectors it's best to send the native panel resolution for 1:1 mapping when doing optical focus (send 1080p, I use a pc at 4:4:4 for best results).

- Jason


----------



## covsound1

misterg51 said:


> Biggest change after a short view after the update, is fan noise. Right behind that is the colors appear to be refined and "right". I would like to say added clarity and not sharpness in the presentation. Edge definition without blooming, specular highlights have better attack and decay. Almost like when I switch to an Audioquest cable (I know, the oscilloscope says there is no difference, ones and zeros....). I want to congratulate the engineers on making a superb projector, even better. Time to start watching movies again. I do software support working from home these days and hate staring at screens at the end of the day. I added an Audioquest Powerquest 3 to filter 4/8K on the projector and video sources. It eliminated a large amount of noise that I thought my Furman power conditioner killed already (I was wrong). Combining the two seems to make the picture have depth and definition. I expect that many will say no way buddy, but I'm happy I've spent time researching and A/B testing blind in dealerships over the years, making the sales staff prove it isn't voodoo magic. The firmware is a great success improving my 5050. The worst part was the contortions to get the USB into the projector mounted on the ceiling, lol.


I definitely understand your comment about audio quest cables. I also regulate my power and condition my power before it goes into the projector been doing this for years. Agreed you can also push color without the color blooming, Edge definition is better than what we had before. I am elated that you brought this up as most would find these things useful.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## amdar

I have just updated the firmware version 1.03 using USB method. Very straight forward update.


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I might have simply been the added brightness gave the impression that the blacks where that little bit deeper, likewise the shadows seemed to have better detail than before. Who know might be just my eyes playing tricks.
> 
> I need to go check out the earlier comment thatâ€™️s member thought he was seeing 3 shifts and not 2 when using e-shift, if true that would be really something as I didnâ€™️t think such a thing would be possible from a firmware update and would probably require a design rethink.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> covsound1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been trying to dial in bw cinema to look like cinema mode as far as color is concerned. I was startled by the contrasts . What did they do to make it feel like it's more?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I would guess that they tweaked the colors, gamma/EOTF, and the detail/4K enhancement algorithm (which might explain why people think they are seeing a different pixel structure).
> 
> 
> 
> * I forgot to mention in my previous 'findings' that my pixel alignment (only 1 click required) and focus were both very slightly altered after the 1.03 update, I had to do those before proceeding with my testing. With the pixel shifting projectors it's best to send the native panel resolution for 1:1 mapping when doing optical focus (send 1080p, I use a pc at 4:4:4 for best results).
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

Guys, I can only vouch for a different pixel structure under 24p and not 60hz! 

Also, what I said previously is that the panel alignment function actually cuts resolution on some colours as it seems to be using digital alignment for the small adjustments! These new machines don’t seem to have motorised panel alignment! This happens on JVC projectors as well btw on their “fine adjustment” ! I am surprised why this is not getting more airtime! 

I think that could be the reason why some people are not seeing a change. White letters might appear sharper with panel alignment up close but with movie material it looks worse. I would disable it.

Anyway, just my 2 cents.


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> Guys, I can only vouch for a different pixel structure under 24p and not 60hz!
> 
> Also, what I said previously is that the panel alignment function actually cuts resolution on some colours as it seems to be using digital alignment for the small adjustments! These new machines don’t seem to have motorised panel alignment! This happens on JVC projectors as well btw on their “fine adjustment” ! I am surprised why this is not getting more airtime!
> 
> I think that could be the reason why some people are not seeing a change. White letters might appear sharper with panel alignment up close but with movie material it looks worse. I would disable it.
> 
> Anyway, just my 2 cents.


I checked the pixel structure with no alignment adjustments in use. 

- Jason


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Guys, I can only vouch for a different pixel structure under 24p and not 60hz!
> 
> Also, what I said previously is that the panel alignment function actually cuts resolution on some colours as it seems to be using digital alignment for the small adjustments! These new machines donâ€™️t seem to have motorised panel alignment! This happens on JVC projectors as well btw on their â€œfine adjustmentâ€ ! I am surprised why this is not getting more airtime!
> 
> I think that could be the reason why some people are not seeing a change. White letters might appear sharper with panel alignment up close but with movie material it looks worse. I would disable it.
> 
> Anyway, just my 2 cents.
> 
> 
> 
> I checked the pixel structure with no alignment adjustments in use. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

At 24hz 4K?


----------



## rollon1980

Anyway, I know what I’m seeing on my screen. 

With 4K 24p material, the pixel gap between the two e-shift positions is gone and I’m seeing a merged line. It’s almost like I have straight diagonal lines for pixels with small gaps between the diagonal lines. 
I know it did not look like this prior to this update. 

The only other thing I can say is whether the 1.03 and 1.02 firmware might not be the same after all.


----------



## rollon1980

One more thing: how is this possible? Well, remember that they added a separate processor into these new machines that controls pixel shifting! That is its only job. It controls the exact position of the panels (and likely LCD shutter) to create a sharper image than was possible on previous generation.

It is entirely possible to make the LCD panels transmissive in a middle position as the panels move. I believe this is what I’m seeing.


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> At 24hz 4K?





rollon1980 said:


> Anyway, I know what I’m seeing on my screen.
> 
> With 4K 24p material, the pixel gap between the two e-shift positions is gone and I’m seeing a merged line. It’s almost like I have straight diagonal lines for pixels with small gaps between the diagonal lines.
> I know it did not look like this prior to this update.
> 
> The only other thing I can say is whether the 1.03 and 1.02 firmware might not be the same after all.



I had previously only checked 24Hz for motion and did the rest of my testing at 60Hz (I guess the gamer in me took over ). 


You are correct, there is definitely something happening at 24Hz that does not take place at 60Hz regarding the pixel structure. 

- Jason


----------



## Keith AP

skylarlove1999 said:


> I have contacts at Epson I can assure you that the firmware update does address picture improvements and also the firmware is the same everywhere
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Anonymous sources? :wink:

So, ok, is there an official statement from Epson on this? If not, why not?


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> One more thing: how is this possible? Well, remember that they added a separate processor into these new machines that controls pixel shifting! That is its only job. It controls the exact position of the panels (and likely LCD shutter) to create a sharper image than was possible on previous generation.
> 
> It is entirely possible to make the LCD panels transmissive in a middle position as the panels move. I believe this is what I’m seeing.


 OK I believe what you're saying is I should reset my panel alignment on the projector. This is only a Digital adjustment and not mechanical which can affect your colors.?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> At 24hz 4K?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I know what Iâ€™️m seeing on my screen.
> 
> With 4K 24p material, the pixel gap between the two e-shift positions is gone and Iâ€™️m seeing a merged line. Itâ€™️s almost like I have straight diagonal lines for pixels with small gaps between the diagonal lines.
> I know it did not look like this prior to this update.
> 
> The only other thing I can say is whether the 1.03 and 1.02 firmware might not be the same after all.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> I had previously only checked 24Hz for motion and did the rest of my testing at 60Hz (I guess the gamer in me took over /forum/images/smilies/redface.gif).
> 
> 
> You are correct, there is definitely something happening at 24Hz that does not take place at 60Hz regarding the pixel structure. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

Finally! Thank you! Lol 😉 

They are only doing it at 24hz. 

I wouldn’t say 60hz is EXACTLY the same as before but it’s definitely more similar to how it was. I can’t yet put my finger on that but there is something different there too. Maybe the order they position things. I don’t know. I’ll have to spend more time with 60hz then I’ll tell you. 

Basically, before there was zero flicker with pixel shifting. Now my eyes see a tiny bit of a flicker. I’ll test 60hz more! But to be honest I never pixel peeped 60hz as much as 24hz so I’m no expert there. 😉


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> One more thing: how is this possible? Well, remember that they added a separate processor into these new machines that controls pixel shifting! That is its only job. It controls the exact position of the panels (and likely LCD shutter) to create a sharper image than was possible on previous generation.
> 
> It is entirely possible to make the LCD panels transmissive in a middle position as the panels move. I believe this is what Iâ€™️m seeing.
> 
> 
> 
> OK I believe what you're saying is I should reset my panel alignment on the projector. This is only a Digital adjustment and not mechanical which can affect your colors.?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yes that’s what I’m saying. UNLESS you have 1 pixel wide errors in which case you need to get the alignment to exactly one pixel towards the desired position. If you add just one bit of fine adjustment, at least at 24hz, you ruin some of the colour channels. 

Put up a disk menu like Aquaman or Lucy then switch your alignment on or off. You’ll see what I mean.


----------



## rollon1980

Also re panel alignment while we are discussing it.

The panels are aligned in temperature equivalent to running the projector on medium lamp for 30mins. 

My panels are somewhat misaligned when the projector starts but after a 20min warm up, almost perfectly aligned.

The tiny bit of misalignment that remains, your brain deals with. You remember the pixel structure of tube TVs and even some modern ones? The colours are next to each other, not on top of each other. But at the distance you’re watching it, your visual system combines the channels.

Yes, a DLP projector can look a bit sharper due to perfect alignment but it doesn’t mean it resolves more detail (with resolution and everything else being equal). DLPs look sharper because of clearly delineated more contrasty lines (as the edges of the tiny mirrors for pixels have contrast in themselves). This is partly - among other things - what Epson is trying to emulate with their image enhancement.


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> Finally! Thank you! Lol 😉
> 
> They are only doing it at 24hz.
> 
> I wouldn’t say 60hz is EXACTLY the same as before but it’s definitely more similar to how it was. I can’t yet put my finger on that but there is something different there too. Maybe the order they position things. I don’t know. I’ll have to spend more time with 60hz then I’ll tell you.
> 
> Basically, before there was zero flicker with pixel shifting. Now my eyes see a tiny bit of a flicker. I’ll test 60hz more! But to be honest I never pixel peeped 60hz as much as 24hz so I’m no expert there. 😉



To be fair to both of us... you didn't claim the change to 60Hz and I didn't claim 24Hz. 

"Finally"... I just installed the firmware late yesterday (it's been less than 24 hours for me). 

- Jason


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> Yes that’s what I’m saying. UNLESS you have 1 pixel wide errors in which case you need to get the alignment to exactly one pixel towards the desired position. If you add just one bit of fine adjustment, at least at 24hz, you ruin some of the colour channels.
> 
> Put up a disk menu like Aquaman or Lucy then switch your alignment on or off. You’ll see what I mean.


Wow I was heading out but I said I have to try this. This is as big of an upgrade as the firmware itself. I never imagined the mosquito noise was a by-product of the digital Panel Alignment. I really can see and feel the 4K now or sharpness of the projector. I went through my a granius movies and all I can say is Thank you. A night and day difference!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Finally! Thank you! Lol 😉
> 
> They are only doing it at 24hz.
> 
> I wouldnâ€™️t say 60hz is EXACTLY the same as before but itâ€™️s definitely more similar to how it was. I canâ€™️t yet put my finger on that but there is something different there too. Maybe the order they position things. I donâ€™️t know. Iâ€™️ll have to spend more time with 60hz then Iâ€™️ll tell you.
> 
> Basically, before there was zero flicker with pixel shifting. Now my eyes see a tiny bit of a flicker. Iâ€™️ll test 60hz more! But to be honest I never pixel peeped 60hz as much as 24hz so Iâ€™️m no expert there. 😉
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To be fair to both of us... you didn't claim the change to 60Hz and I didn't claim 24Hz. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> "Finally"... I just installed the firmware late yesterday (it's been less than 24 hours for me). /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

I didn’t mean it as an offence, apologies. 😉

I realised you weren’t checking 24p material as you said 60hz.

I’ve been sitting on this for two days now. I’m going PEOPLE, ANYONE, please check it ALREADY! 😉 

You are the 2nd one to confirm it. JKLOW checked it out too. It looks sharper on 24p material ... as long as you don’t mess with panel alignment (put it to off).


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes thatâ€™️s what Iâ€™️m saying. UNLESS you have 1 pixel wide errors in which case you need to get the alignment to exactly one pixel towards the desired position. If you add just one bit of fine adjustment, at least at 24hz, you ruin some of the colour channels.
> 
> Put up a disk menu like Aquaman or Lucy then switch your alignment on or off. Youâ€™️ll see what I mean.
> 
> 
> 
> Wow I was heading out but I said I have to try this. This is as big of an upgrade as the firmware itself. I never imagined the mosquito noise was a by-product of the digital Panel Alignment. I really can see and feel the 4K now or sharpness of the projector. I went through my a granius movies and all I can say is Thank you. A night and day difference!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Happy to help! I have a JVC as well so know what damage to the picture their fine panel adjustment does. When I got the EPSON I tested it as well and unfortunately, the same issue happens. No such thing as a free lunch!


----------



## tarheel23

Shawn Kelly said:


> Is there any interest here in a custom anamorphic lens for the 6050? Not to make this a sales discussion but just checking to see if anybody has been thinking along those lines.


Definite interest here. Just not sure if I can stomach the probably pricepoint


----------



## skylarlove1999

Shawn Kelly said:


> Is there any interest here in a custom anamorphic lens for the 6050? Not to make this a sales discussion but just checking to see if anybody has been thinking along those lines.


I would be interested at $4K. Not sure it would be feasible for most A-lens manufacturers at that price point. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawn Kelly

If we have enough interest we can do better than $4K as a pre-order price with a new lens model with the highest performance available. We just need to know the interest is there. The Panamorph mounting holes and the anamorphic modes for a fixed lens are already in the 6040/6050 Epson models (and earlier models of the series).


----------



## skylarlove1999

Shawn Kelly said:


> If we have enough interest we can do better than $4K as a pre-order price with a new lens model with the highest performance available. We just need to know the interest is there. The Panamorph mounting holes and the anamorphic modes for a fixed lens are already in the 6040/6050 Epson models (and earlier models of the series).


I know with the compact DCR lens for the JVC NX series you had a great deal and the 1.6 throw ratio wasn't all that difficult to do. What do you think the throw might be?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Shawn Kelly

That's the thought - same type of program. Same minimum throw ratio: 1.6:1. In this case there is an advantage in that the Epson projectors don't have such a significantly recessed lens.


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> I didn’t mean it as an offence, apologies. 😉
> 
> I realised you weren’t checking 24p material as you said 60hz.
> 
> I’ve been sitting on this for two days now. I’m going PEOPLE, ANYONE, please check it ALREADY! 😉
> 
> You are the 2nd one to confirm it. JKLOW checked it out too. It looks sharper on 24p material ... as long as you don’t mess with panel alignment (put it to off).


No offense taken, was just messing with you (thus the ).

- Jason


----------



## rollon1980

Shawn Kelly said:


> If we have enough interest we can do better than $4K as a pre-order price with a new lens model with the highest performance available. We just need to know the interest is there. The Panamorph mounting holes and the anamorphic modes for a fixed lens are already in the 6040/6050 Epson models (and earlier models of the series).


If you could do $2K then maaaaaaaaybe. The thing is the Epson is really great as is and now with the new firmware, we actually have more resolution for 24p material and better pixel fill. It’d be hard to justify it. 😕 but then I’m in Oz so add another $1000 after conversion for me and we’re almost where the price of the Epson is even at $2K. Ugh!


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I didnâ€™️t mean it as an offence, apologies. 😉
> 
> I realised you werenâ€™️t checking 24p material as you said 60hz.
> 
> Iâ€™️ve been sitting on this for two days now. Iâ€™️m going PEOPLE, ANYONE, please check it ALREADY! 😉
> 
> You are the 2nd one to confirm it. JKLOW checked it out too. It looks sharper on 24p material ... as long as you donâ€™️t mess with panel alignment (put it to off).
> 
> 
> 
> No offense taken, was just messing with you (thus the /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif).
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

Phew. Good 😉


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> Phew. Good 😉


 Yes my last test of the night was to check out the pixel structure. With my poor eyes I can see no grid structure at 24 hz. But i can at 59hz! The man was correct with his assessment . That makes 3 now.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

*Regarding pixel alignment...
*
So far it's looking like it takes several clicks in any direction (or a combination of several clicks) to cause more than a 3 dE shift according to reads from my calibrated unit (error above 3 dE is visible to the human eye). 

I show less than a 1 dE shift (~ .7) from a single click in any direction and ~ 1.5 dE for two clicks.

This has less of an accuracy impact for those with a properly calibrated unit that should already be under 3 dE (meaning a click or two should not cause a visible difference since you are probably still under 3dE).

So yes it is advisable to not use more than a click or two in any direction and if you have a unit that requires that much adjustment either leave it alone (as suggested by our man from the land down unda rollon1980) or have it replaced if possible (especially if your unit is an entire row out of alignment). If RGB does not overlap at all on your unit fixing this will definitely cause an easily visible issue.

I need a test pattern break, oh my eyes. 

- Jason


----------



## DaGamePimp

covsound1 said:


> Yes my last test of the night was to check out the pixel structure. With my poor eyes I can see no grid structure at 24 hz. But i can at 59hz! The man was correct with his assessment . That makes 3 now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Oh there is definitely a grid structure at 24Hz but it's as if there is an extra pixel in the mix (vs. 60Hz). 

If you cannot make out the grid then you likely have not reached optimal focus with your unit (or maybe you have an AT screen).

- Jason


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> Oh there is definitely a grid structure at 24Hz but it's as if there is an extra pixel in the mix (vs. 60Hz).
> 
> If you cannot make out the grid then you likely have not reached optimal focus with your unit (or maybe you have an AT screen).
> 
> - Jason


OK just looked with my eyes no cell phone this time. Have to retract my statement grids on both:frown: Had this unit about 3 months now this is the most happy i have been with it. Thanks for your work.


----------



## covsound1

24hz grid.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> covsound1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes my last test of the night was to check out the pixel structure. With my poor eyes I can see no grid structure at 24 hz. But i can at 59hz! The man was correct with his assessment . That makes 3 now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Oh there is definitely a grid structure at 24Hz but it's as if there is an extra pixel in the mix (vs. 60Hz). /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> If you cannot make out the grid then you likely have not reached optimal focus with your unit (or maybe you have an AT screen).
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

So... I tested my Xbox one x and unfortunately could only test 4K 60hz at 4:2:0 before I had to stop and it looks like it does have the new pixel pattern, if a tiny bit more flicker.

I couldn’t test higher bit depths, as it is now after dinner movie time. I think this needs more testing at 60hz with different bit depths.


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> 24hz grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Mmmm, that looks out of focus a bit? 

Also I see squares as opposed to the little diagonal lines but it could just be out of focus. 🙂


----------



## rollon1980

rollon1980 said:


> covsound1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 24hz grid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mmmm, that looks out of focus a bit?
> 
> Also I see squares as opposed to the little diagonal lines but it could just be out of focus. 🙂
Click to expand...

It could also mean my lens doesn’t resolve the tiny little pixels. For me they look like diagonal lines even at 150”. 😉 with previous firmware I could make out the two e-shift positions super clearly.


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> It could also mean my lens doesn’t resolve the tiny little pixels. For me they look like diagonal lines even at 150”. 😉 with previous firmware I could make out the two e-shift positions super clearly.


I am confused because this was my first pic.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> So... I tested my Xbox one x and unfortunately could only test 4K 60hz at 4:2:0 before I had to stop and it looks like it does have the new pixel pattern, if a tiny bit more flicker.
> 
> I couldn’t test higher bit depths, as it is now after dinner movie time. I think this needs more testing at 60hz with different bit depths.


Isn't Oz 50Hz (PAL)?

I tested 4K 60Hz 4:2:2 and it was the same as 4:4:4 (same pixel structure as firmware 1.01), I did not test 4K 60Hz @ 4:2:0.

I also tried several different refresh rates and as you go down the line the pixel structure appears more refined/cleaner until you reach 24Hz and then that 'extra pixel' becomes obvious.

I wish the 1.03 24Hz pixel clarity was present with 4K 60Hz but it just is not there at 4:2:2 or 4:4:4. It would be great to have for PC gaming. 

Once you (basically) put your nose to the screen and see the pixel structure at 4K 24Hz it's easy to see when it's not present at 60Hz.

- Jason


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So... I tested my Xbox one x and unfortunately could only test 4K 60hz at 4:2:0 before I had to stop and it looks like it does have the new pixel pattern, if a tiny bit more flicker.
> 
> I couldnâ€™️t test higher bit depths, as it is now after dinner movie time. I think this needs more testing at 60hz with different bit depths.
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't Oz 50Hz (PAL)?
> 
> I tested 4K 60Hz 4:2:2 and it was the same as 4:4:4 (same pixel structure as firmware 1.01), I did not test 4K 60Hz @ 4:2:0.
> 
> I also tried several different refresh rates and as you go down the line the pixel structure appears more refined/cleaner until you reach 24Hz and then that 'extra pixel' becomes obvious.
> 
> I wish the 1.03 24Hz pixel clarity was present with 4K 60Hz but it just is not there at 4:2:2 or 4:4:4. It would be great to have for PC gaming. /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
> 
> Once you (basically) put your nose to the screen and see the pixel structure at 4K 24Hz it's easy to see when it's not present at 60Hz.
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

Good question. Europe is 50hz for TV only. Xbox is outputting at 59hz so basically 60hz. 

The new structure seems to be present at 50hz for me if I put on a TV show like that. 

I wonder if the Oz firmware is also different as the US site had 1.02. We have 1.03.

Anyway, more investigation to be done here. It’s bedtime but I’ll do some more tomorrow.


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It could also mean my lens doesnâ€™️t resolve the tiny little pixels. For me they look like diagonal lines even at 150â€. ðŸ˜‰ with previous firmware I could make out the two e-shift positions super clearly.
> 
> 
> 
> I am confused because this was my first pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ah ok. Sorry didn’t see that one. 🙂 I’m half checking the forum on my phone, half my Mac. Cool! 🙂 there you go!


----------



## jorisdriesen

jorisdriesen said:


> Just reading about the new firmware update, and that the improvements are mainly for HDR content. I'm using madVR to do the video processing, and it's outputting in SDR to the projector. (I've never even touched the HDR slider on the Epson.)
> 
> Would the firmware upgrades be noticeable for my situation as well, or would you need to have a real HDR signal to have the improvements ?


Anyone ?


----------



## skylarlove1999

jorisdriesen said:


> Anyone ?


If you are running the most updated version of madVR with dynamic tone mapping than you are probably not going to see any benefit. AFIK the Epson projector is still utilizing static tone mapping. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> If you are running the most updated version of madVR with dynamic tone mapping than you are probably not going to see any benefit. AFIK the Epson projector is still utilizing static tone mapping.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I have an old PC laying around that can run MadVR if I add a good GPU. I use the Panasonic 420 for my physical discs and Netflix, and use a Shield for playing my BluRay rips. Do you think a MadVR HTPC would give me better tone mapping than the Shield?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> I have an old PC laying around that can run MadVR if I add a good GPU. I use the Panasonic 420 for my physical discs and Netflix, and use a Shield for playing my BluRay rips. Do you think a MadVR HTPC would give me better tone mapping than the Shield?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes absolutely 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes absolutely
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Are you using MadVR with your 6050?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Are you using MadVR with your 6050?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I am not. All of my 2000+ movies on are hard disk with about 200 of those 4k discs. I just haven't wanted to take the time and effort into ripping everything to an HTPC learning how to properly tweak madVR. @DavidinGA runs madVR with a 150 inch screen and an Epson 5040. Maybe he could expound on the benefits of madVR dynamic tone mapping.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

@Luminated67 did you ever get MadVR up and running? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

and for those who can't tell the difference between microscopic pixels etc  did 1.03 fix the lens memory setting issue?


----------



## pete ramberg

Concerning panel alignment:

Are we suggesting that panel alignment should not be used, due to a decrease in resolution from using it??

Not sure I understand - as my panels were off a bit, so I realigned them with the panel adjustment feature and they align quite well now.

Is panel alignment (digitally) some how reducing resolution? If so, how are the panels supposed to be realigned?


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> I am not. All of my 2000+ movies on are hard disk with about 200 of those 4k discs. I just haven't wanted to take the time and effort into ripping everything to an HTPC learning how to properly tweak madVR. @*DavidinGA* runs madVR with a 150 inch screen and an Epson 5040. Maybe he could expound on the benefits of madVR dynamic tone mapping.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I checked in with Mike at AVS about the new Denon receiver doing tone mapping and his impression is the new Denon WILL do DTM. He said it his impression that the catch is that the source device has to be HDMI 2.1. Something to keep our eye on.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> I checked in with Mike at AVS about the new Denon receiver doing tone mapping and his impression is the new Denon WILL do DTM. He said it his impression that the catch is that the source device has to be HDMI 2.1. Something to keep our eye on.


Thanks for looking into it. Much appreciated. I am still a bit skeptical about DTM in a receiver but honestly with JVC adding DTM via a firmware update last November and with whatever Epson just did to the tone mapping in the 6050 it makes me believe it could be put into a receiver. I am super impressed with the new tone mapping in the 6050 so much so that I actually cancelled an order for a JVC NX7. I am shocked that I did that LOL. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidinGA

Hawkmarket said:


> I checked in with Mike at AVS about the new Denon receiver doing tone mapping and his impression is the new Denon WILL do DTM. He said it his impression that the catch is that the source device has to be HDMI 2.1. Something to keep our eye on.


None of the built in dtm options are going to do anything compared to what madvr or envy can do. It simply takes too much processing power to just add that to a pj or a receiver, sorry.

Now the fact that the avr can do some dtm might just check the boxes of what you're looking for and perhaps you'll be very happy. It definitely will be a benefit to some users, just like the dtm in the jvc's have put smiles on some users faces. It's often an ignorance is bliss situation and sometimes that's really okay especially considering ease of use in a plug and play setup. 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

DavidinGA said:


> None of the built in dtm options are going to do anything compared to what madvr or envy can do. It simply takes too much processing power to just add that to a pj or a receiver, sorry.
> 
> Now the fact that the avr can do some dtm might just check the boxes of what you're looking for and perhaps you'll be very happy. It definitely will be a benefit to some users, just like the dtm in the jvc's have put smiles on some users faces. It's often an ignorance is bliss situation and sometimes that's really okay especially considering ease of use in a plug and play setup.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


I am in 100% agreement with this post and yet I am still amazed at what Epson has accomplished with this firmware update. Maybe if Envy ever gets below $4K I will experience true dynamic tone mapping and the upscaling it offers.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## pdoherty972

So, after applying the 1.03 firmware, what should we do? Reset everything to factory defaults and tweak from there? If we had decent settings from 1.01 is it easier to start from those and tweak?


----------



## covsound1

I am not a pixel peeping type of guy. My only concern is what I see at my 15 foot seating distance. For those that missed it the main take away was panel alignment. This was one of the best piece of advice I have received . For those of you that have adjusted your panel alignment reset it to factory. This along with the new 1.03 update. (My major fuss with this unit was softness and mosquito noise when using enhancement level 5.) This simple adjustment should give you clarity and detail beyond your wildest dreams. As stated by Skylarlove1999 I really had an eye on the nx7 and if I could fit into my budget. So happy I didn't put my self out there. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

pete ramberg said:


> Concerning panel alignment:
> 
> Are we suggesting that panel alignment should not be used, due to a decrease in resolution from using it??
> 
> Not sure I understand - as my panels were off a bit, so I realigned them with the panel adjustment feature and they align quite well now.
> 
> Is panel alignment (digitally) some how reducing resolution? If so, how are the panels supposed to be realigned?


It is reducing resolution. Please read my earlier posts a few pages back and do the simple test with those UHD blu ray menus. You shall see...


----------



## rollon1980

pdoherty972 said:


> So, after applying the 1.03 firmware, what should we do? Reset everything to factory defaults and tweak from there? If we had decent settings from 1.01 is it easier to start from those and tweak?


Really depends. I had a custom gamma curve for my brightest HDR setting in Dynamic picture mode and I reset the gamma to -1 now. The new gammas look a lot better than before. 

I left my colour (greyscale and gamut) settings as before but someone mentioned that a recalibration improves things further. I haven’t had the time... 
Question: anyone wants to give my DYNAMIC HDR settings a go? They give about 60% more brightness than Digital Cinema and still with relatively good colour. If you are a colour freak, you will spot stuff but it’s great for games even then. 😉


----------



## rollon1980

OK, had a closer look at 60hz versus 24hz and they look different BUT!!!

60hz still has an extra pixel in between positions as it still does NOT look like it used to! 

24hz looks like two extra pixels! It’s almost like continuous lines. OR the 3 pixels are somewhat wider apart as the panels have time to travel further. 

In any case, I don’t think either look exactly like they used to. 24p most certainly doesn’t, but I don’t remember the pixel structure at 60hz to be this way either.


----------



## smile

rollon1980 said:


> OK, had a closer look at 60hz versus 24hz and they look different BUT!!!
> 
> 60hz still has an extra pixel in between positions as it still does NOT look like it used to!
> 
> 24hz looks like two extra pixels! It’s almost like continuous lines. OR the 3 pixels are somewhat wider apart as the panels have time to travel further.
> 
> In any case, I don’t think either look exactly like they used to. 24p most certainly doesn’t, but I don’t remember the pixel structure at 60hz to be this way either.


After scanning thru 20 pages of this thread, I'll just ask: How do I calibrate the picture quality? 
Should I expect a pro's calibration whose settings I copy to be at or close to ideal for me and mine?
Where might I find calibration settings to use?
Should I set my Anthem MX310 video settings to OFF, or is there something useful for it to do?
My primary input for now will be a ROKU Premier 2019 unit.
Thx


----------



## biglen

smile said:


> After scanning thru 20 pages of this thread, I'll just ask: How do I calibrate the picture quality?
> Should I expect a pro's calibration whose settings I copy to be at or close to ideal for me and mine?
> Where might I find calibration settings to use?
> Should I set my Anthem MX310 video settings to OFF, or is there something useful for it to do?
> My primary input for now will be a ROKU Premier 2019 unit.
> Thx


You're not going to find settings from someone else, that will work for you. Projectors are so much different than TVs. Everyone has different lighting in the room that their projector is in. Some have 100% complete darkness, and others have some lighting in their rooms. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

pete ramberg said:


> Concerning panel alignment:
> 
> Are we suggesting that panel alignment should not be used, due to a decrease in resolution from using it??
> 
> Not sure I understand - as my panels were off a bit, so I realigned them with the panel adjustment feature and they align quite well now.
> 
> Is panel alignment (digitally) some how reducing resolution? If so, how are the panels supposed to be realigned?


I'd like to echo this question. My panel was off a bit and with lettering up close I could see a red shadow around the outside of the letters. When I aligned the panels that went away. However, after messing with it last night although the lettering had the red shadow when I looked at actual film content it made no difference. In fact on a couple scenes when I turned the panel off up close a few details actually came in a little sharper. Is the general consensus just to leave it off in this case?


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> Thanks for looking into it. Much appreciated. I am still a bit skeptical about DTM in a receiver but honestly with JVC adding DTM via a firmware update last November and with whatever Epson just did to the tone mapping in the 6050 it makes me believe it could be put into a receiver. I am super impressed with the new tone mapping in the 6050 so much so that I actually cancelled an order for a JVC NX7. I am shocked that I did that LOL.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I've followed this board long enough to know that if you cancelled an NX7 purchase that's a HUGE deal! That was my other consideration and given what I've seen with the 5050 I've never once had a regret. I REALLY like this projector and with the updates it just gets better.


----------



## fredworld

smile said:


> After scanning thru 20 pages of this thread, I'll just ask: How do I calibrate the picture quality?
> Should I expect a pro's calibration whose settings I copy to be at or close to ideal for me and mine?
> Where might I find calibration settings to use?
> Should I set my Anthem MX310 video settings to OFF, or is there something useful for it to do?
> My primary input for now will be a ROKU Premier 2019 unit.
> Thx



Don't know about your Anthem but I don't recommend using the projector settings of others, even those from reviewers. Every unit will respond differently depending on ambient light (if any), room colors, screen size, screen color AND screen material, throw distance, manufacturing variances and personal tastes. Consequently, the variables are many.

The best investment I made in my Epson 5050UB projector is the $40 I spent for the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc*. It's as close as one can get to (but not a substitute for) a professional calibration. The Benchmark disc is an excellent tool.As usual, YMMV....


----------



## pete ramberg

rollon1980 said:


> It is reducing resolution. Please read my earlier posts a few pages back and do the simple test with those UHD blu ray menus. You shall see...


Rollon, I read all posts. That's why I am asking this question: How are the LCD panels supposed to be aligned if not by using panel alignment feature??

I can't believe that leaving an mis-aligned set of 3 LCD panels is better for resolution than using the panel alignment feature.

Are you talking about keystone adjustment, by chance???


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> @Luminated67 did you ever get MadVR up and running?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Mate with this virus hitting the world and my business being a supermarket I haven’t had a minute to even consider MadVR.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> Mate with this virus hitting the world and my business being a supermarket I haven’t had a minute to even consider MadVR.


I had no idea you were in the supermarket business. God bless you, your family and your employees. Please stay safe and healthy. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

skylarlove1999 said:


> I had no idea you were in the supermarket business. God bless you, your family and your employees. Please stay safe and healthy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Due to the whole social distancing etc we have had to limit the numbers entering at any one time so once I did my usual duties I like to get on to the door and control the numbers as it let me meet the customers, something I seldom get the chance to do anymore. Well meeting a few thousand every single day and at the start all this pandemic I was working seven days a week for to first few weeks is was only a matter of time before it hit us, son tested positive a fortnight ago and we all had to isolate but the scary thing is he’s disabled and had already been isolating for the last 9 weeks so he had to have catch it from one of us yet none of us showed symptoms. The number of people that have it and have had it and never know is scary because how are you to get on top of this when so many are walking around without an idea they are covid positive.

Oh btw he’s OK, but scary at the beginning but came through fine and now back to normal though still quite tired.


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> Good question. Europe is 50hz for TV only. Xbox is outputting at 59hz so basically 60hz.
> 
> The new structure seems to be present at 50hz for me if I put on a TV show like that.
> 
> I wonder if the Oz firmware is also different as the US site had 1.02. We have 1.03.
> 
> Anyway, more investigation to be done here. It’s bedtime but I’ll do some more tomorrow.



The US site has 1.03 (not 1.02). 

Yeah my eyes could not take any more, I was magnifying the pixels and for about an hour after I stopped I was seeing grid patterns on everything (cotton shirts must be at least native 4K). 


- Jason


----------



## skylarlove1999

Luminated67 said:


> Due to the whole social distancing etc we have had to limit the numbers entering at any one time so once I did my usual duties I like to get on to the door and control the numbers as it let me meet the customers, something I seldom get the chance to do anymore. Well meeting a few thousand every single day and at the start all this pandemic I was working seven days a week for to first few weeks is was only a matter of time before it hit us, son tested positive a fortnight ago and we all had to isolate but the scary thing is he’s disabled and had already been isolating for the last 9 weeks so he had to have catch it from one of us yet none of us showed symptoms. The number of people that have it and have had it and never know is scary because how are you to get on top of this when so many are walking around without an idea they are covid positive.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh btw he’s OK, but scary at the beginning but came through fine and now back to normal though still quite tired.


So glad to hear your son recovered. It is scary with so many people walking around asymptomatic. I will keep you, your son and your family in my prayers.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

smile said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> OK, had a closer look at 60hz versus 24hz and they look different BUT!!!
> 
> 60hz still has an extra pixel in between positions as it still does NOT look like it used to!
> 
> 24hz looks like two extra pixels! Itâ€™️s almost like continuous lines. OR the 3 pixels are somewhat wider apart as the panels have time to travel further.
> 
> In any case, I donâ€™️t think either look exactly like they used to. 24p most certainly doesnâ€™️t, but I donâ€™️t remember the pixel structure at 60hz to be this way either.
> 
> 
> 
> After scanning thru 20 pages of this thread, I'll just ask: How do I calibrate the picture quality?
> Should I expect a pro's calibration whose settings I copy to be at or close to ideal for me and mine?
> Where might I find calibration settings to use?
> Should I set my Anthem MX310 video settings to OFF, or is there something useful for it to do?
> My primary input for now will be a ROKU Premier 2019 unit.
> Thx
Click to expand...

It won’t be spot on. Calibration warped by unit and lamp age etc, but sometimes those settings can help.

I’ll put mine up again with my best Dynamic picture mode cal for HDR. There’s heaps of “accurate” picture mode cake on here (also linked from the first post). Give me until Monday! 🙂


----------



## rollon1980

pete ramberg said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It is reducing resolution. Please read my earlier posts a few pages back and do the simple test with those UHD blu ray menus. You shall see...
> 
> 
> 
> Rollon, I read all posts. That's why I am asking this question: How are the LCD panels supposed to be aligned if not by using panel alignment feature??
> 
> I can't believe that leaving an mis-aligned set of 3 LCD panels is better for resolution than using the panel alignment feature.
> 
> Are you talking about keystone adjustment, by chance???
Click to expand...

Pete, I think you missed a couple of mine. I have a long explanation. I won’t repeat, I’ll just summarise:

- old Epson has motorised panel alignment
- new e-shift epsons seem to have dropped it and replaced it with a digital alignment
- just like on JVC units, using fine adjustment (as opposed to whole pixel) cuts the resolution in some colours! 
- any slight misalignment will not hurt detail retreaval - TVs have had their colours misaligned by 1/3 pixel since tube TVs.

Process:
0. Switch panel alignment off
1. Let projector warm up on medium lamp for 30mins
2. Press pattern button and use the first pattern from list (this put PJ into proper 1080p pixel grid)
3. Press lens button and re-do your focus until pixels look fully in focus.

Do not touch panel alignment unless you have 1 pixel errors in which case you must adjust exactly one pixel wide to the correct direction.

Put up Aquaman or Lucy menu in 4K and switch you panel alignment on or off. If the picture gets soft with it on, your adjustment is using fine adjustment and therefore you are decreasing resolution. Best to leave it off.


----------



## rollon1980

Ok, more testing done on Xbox one x.

There’s definitely an updated pixel structure from before even at 60hz. I’m running 10bit per channel at 4:2:2 both SDR and HDR.

4K games that had noticeable aliasing like Halo 5 and Halo 4 MCC have reduced aliasing. They do have some inherent jagged edges but that was made worse by the Epson downrezzing then e-shifting the image. The image looks smoother and with more detail now. I’m not saying 4K native but it looks really lovely. 

4K HDR games look great with the new HDR tone maps. Both dark and bright areas have more detail! 

Also, checked out Interstellar on UHD. It has alternating shots between normal print and IMAX camera shots. You can really see the difference in resolution now. Lovely 🙂


----------



## pete ramberg

rollon1980 said:


> Pete, I think you missed a couple of mine. I have a long explanation. I won’t repeat, I’ll just summarise:
> 
> - old Epson has motorised panel alignment
> - new e-shift epsons seem to have dropped it and replaced it with a digital alignment
> - just like on JVC units, using fine adjustment (as opposed to whole pixel) cuts the resolution in some colours!
> - any slight misalignment will not hurt detail retreaval - TVs have had their colours misaligned by 1/3 pixel since tube TVs.
> 
> Process:
> 0. Switch panel alignment off
> 1. Let projector warm up on medium lamp for 30mins
> 2. Press pattern button and use the first pattern from list (this put PJ into proper 1080p pixel grid)
> 3. Press lens button and re-do your focus until pixels look fully in focus.
> 
> Do not touch panel alignment unless you have 1 pixel errors in which case you must adjust exactly one pixel wide to the correct direction.
> 
> Put up Aquaman or Lucy menu in 4K and switch you panel alignment on or off. If the picture gets soft with it on, your adjustment is using fine adjustment and therefore you are decreasing resolution. Best to leave it off.


Still not sure what you mean by "using fine adjustment as opposed to whole *pixel*". Do you mean "whole *panel*" adjustment instead of using the fine adjustment that allows certain parts of the LCD panels to be repositioned or realigned???


----------



## rollon1980

pete ramberg said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pete, I think you missed a couple of mine. I have a long explanation. I wonâ€™️t repeat, Iâ€™️ll just summarise:
> 
> - old Epson has motorised panel alignment
> - new e-shift epsons seem to have dropped it and replaced it with a digital alignment
> - just like on JVC units, using fine adjustment (as opposed to whole pixel) cuts the resolution in some colours!
> - any slight misalignment will not hurt detail retreaval - TVs have had their colours misaligned by 1/3 pixel since tube TVs.
> 
> Process:
> 0. Switch panel alignment off
> 1. Let projector warm up on medium lamp for 30mins
> 2. Press pattern button and use the first pattern from list (this put PJ into proper 1080p pixel grid)
> 3. Press lens button and re-do your focus until pixels look fully in focus.
> 
> Do not touch panel alignment unless you have 1 pixel errors in which case you must adjust exactly one pixel wide to the correct direction.
> 
> Put up Aquaman or Lucy menu in 4K and switch you panel alignment on or off. If the picture gets soft with it on, your adjustment is using fine adjustment and therefore you are decreasing resolution. Best to leave it off.
> 
> 
> 
> Still not sure what you mean by "using fine adjustment as opposed to whole *pixel*". Do you mean "whole *panel*" adjustment instead of using the fine adjustment that allows certain parts of the LCD panels to be repositioned or realigned???
Click to expand...

Short answer: TURN IT OFF! 😉 just believe me. 

Long answer: Epson’s implementation is really crappy and confusing.

The fine and whole pixel adjustment is under the same mechanism (I was not talking about adjusting separate areas of the screen). You adjust the pixel alignment under one control. JVC has them separated (for good reason). 

I might write about this in more detail down the line but not today. For now, just turn it off. It is very unlikely you have a whole pixel error on your panel alignment after a 30min warm up.

Sorry can’t explain more today, it will require more time.


----------



## Porknz

Any advice for a guy planning to do this 1.03 sometime soon, but that knows nothing about calibration at all? Good threads etc.?


----------



## Porknz

fredworld said:


> Don't know about your Anthem but I don't recommend using the projector settings of others, even those from reviewers. Every unit will respond differently depending on ambient light (if any), room colors, screen size, screen color AND screen material, throw distance, manufacturing variances and personal tastes. Consequently, the variables are many.
> 
> The best investment I made in my Epson 5050UB projector is the $40 I spent for the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc*. It's as close as one can get to (but not a substitute for) a professional calibration. The Benchmark disc is an excellent tool.As usual, YMMV....



Tell me more about this calibration disk! I know zero about calibration, and it seems like a deep subject to learn.


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> Ok, more testing done on Xbox one x.
> 
> There’s definitely an updated pixel structure from before even at 60hz. I’m running 10bit per channel at 4:2:2 both SDR and HDR.
> 
> 4K games that had noticeable aliasing like Halo 5 and Halo 4 MCC have reduced aliasing. They do have some inherent jagged edges but that was made worse by the Epson downrezzing then e-shifting the image. The image looks smoother and with more detail now. I’m not saying 4K native but it looks really lovely.
> 
> 4K HDR games look great with the new HDR tone maps. Both dark and bright areas have more detail!
> 
> Also, checked out Interstellar on UHD. It has alternating shots between normal print and IMAX camera shots. You can really see the difference in resolution now. Lovely 🙂


As much as I wish the 1.03 pixel structure was present at 4K 60Hz I simply cannot detect it (it's not from lack of trying, even under magnification). 

It's obvious at 24Hz and a little less at 30Hz, then at 50Hz I can just barely make out a slight variance from 60Hz but at 60Hz it looks the same as 1.01 (maybe there is a setting or two causing the variance that we seem to be seeing... image enhancement?). I took pixel pics while still on 1.01 so that I would not go from memory alone and there is an obvious difference from 24Hz to 60Hz (with 24Hz being very crisp/clean and well defined).


Regarding the pixel alignment discussion... 

I have found that I can make micro adjustments without losing resolution/detail/clarity. 

Obviously this will vary unit to unit and the amount of shift adjustment in use means we can all have a different end result.

I have tested it with tracking/phase patterns that make any loss obvious since it would hinder the pixel mapping (much worse than the pixel shifting/scaling).

When a pc is your main source and used for more than video playback any funky business becomes very obvious.

*** I also need to say that my findings could be different since my 5050UB is near perfect alignment/convergence out of the box (we all have to remember that most of us are making claims based upon a single sample of these units). 


Bottom line... the over-all image has improved from 1.03 and that's all we can hope for. 

- Jason


----------



## HTSteve

*Need Projector Placement help asap*

Hi - need some quick advice, since my electrician is coming tomorrow morning to install ceiling outlets in basement remodel.

I tried the Epson calculator, but I am more confused. Below is what I am trying to do.

120" screen.
Ceiling height is 90"
Projector distance to wall is 16' or 10'10"

I have a bulkhead in front of the projector, so I was going to hang below the bulkhead, which measures about 10.5"-11" below the ceiling height. The Epson calculator says I need to have the projector hanging 27" down from the ceiling. That is way too low. Isn't there a lens shift or something that I can keep the projector just below the bulkhead?

Other option is to place in front of bulkhead, but the throw distance would only be 130" (10'10") from front of lens. That limits me to about 110".

I would prefer 120", but I need a workable solution. Your input is greatly appreciated.


----------



## fredworld

Porknz said:


> Tell me more about this calibration disk! I know zero about calibration, and it seems like a deep subject to learn.



Click the hyperlink in my prior post for full information. Spend some time with that website for a good overview. It'll be worth your time... and the slight headache.:wink:


----------



## fredworld

HTSteve said:


> Hi - need some quick advice, since my electrician is coming tomorrow morning to install ceiling outlets in basement remodel.
> 
> I tried the Epson calculator, but I am more confused. Below is what I am trying to do.
> 
> 120" screen.
> Ceiling height is 90"
> Projector distance to wall is 16' or 10'10"
> 
> I have a bulkhead in front of the projector, so I was going to hang below the bulkhead, which measures about 10.5"-11" below the ceiling height. The Epson calculator says I need to have the projector hanging 27" down from the ceiling. That is way too low. Isn't there a lens shift or something that I can keep the projector just below the bulkhead?
> 
> Other option is to place in front of bulkhead, but the throw distance would only be 130" (10'10") from front of lens. That limits me to about 110".
> 
> I would prefer 120", but I need a workable solution. Your input is greatly appreciated.



Check your parameters in the calculator. Your floor to screen distance might be wrong. My 5050UB is only 4.5" from the ceiling and with minor lens shift projects excellent uniformity to my screen whose top is 11" from the ceiling. You should be able to set yours up proportionately.


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTSteve said:


> Hi - need some quick advice, since my electrician is coming tomorrow morning to install ceiling outlets in basement remodel.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the Epson calculator, but I am more confused. Below is what I am trying to do.
> 
> 
> 
> 120" screen.
> 
> Ceiling height is 90"
> 
> Projector distance to wall is 16' or 10'10"
> 
> 
> 
> I have a bulkhead in front of the projector, so I was going to hang below the bulkhead, which measures about 10.5"-11" below the ceiling height. The Epson calculator says I need to have the projector hanging 27" down from the ceiling. That is way too low. Isn't there a lens shift or something that I can keep the projector just below the bulkhead?
> 
> 
> 
> Other option is to place in front of bulkhead, but the throw distance would only be 130" (10'10") from front of lens. That limits me to about 110".
> 
> 
> 
> I would prefer 120", but I need a workable solution. Your input is greatly appreciated.


Use this calculator. The Epson has a tremendous amount of vertical lens shift. You can certainly hang behind your bulkhead without needing to hang 27 inches down from the ceiling. If you are hanging the projector dead center of the screen horizontally you can utilize all the vertical shift.

https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro_Cinema_6050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Porknz said:


> Tell me more about this calibration disk! I know zero about calibration, and it seems like a deep subject to learn.



So there is a disclaimer when you buy that says there is some stuff on here for consumers, but it's mostly for professionals and requires specialized equipment. So for a guy that knows nothing about calibration, is this useful? I was interested initially, thinking it would be a crutch to help me do some calibrations. The disclaimers don't make it sound like that. Are there any crutches for first time calibrators to use? Thanks.


----------



## HTSteve

skylarlove1999 said:


> Use this calculator. The Epson has a tremendous amount of vertical lens shift. You can certainly hang behind your bulkhead without needing to hang 27 inches down from the ceiling. If you are hanging the projector dead center of the screen horizontally you can utilize all the vertical shift.
> 
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Pro_Cinema_6050UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thanks for your response.

I used that calculator as well. It provides +29" vertical offset. I expect to hang about 14" from ceiling to get below the bulkhead. What does +29" vertical offset mean? Thanks.


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTSteve said:


> Thanks for your response.
> 
> 
> 
> I used that calculator as well. It provides +29" vertical offset. I expect to hang about 14" from ceiling to get below the bulkhead. What does +29" vertical offset mean? Thanks.


It means you could hang the projector 29 inches above or below the screen or anywhere in between. Now the calculator doesn't account for the bulkhead being in front of your screen so but I don't think you will have any issue. I have an 8 ft soffit that hangs down six inches from my ceiling. The soffit starts 8 ft from my screen . My projector is 16ft from my current 120 inch 16x9 screen. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jarjar2k3

rollon1980 said:


> Really depends. I had a custom gamma curve for my brightest HDR setting in Dynamic picture mode and I reset the gamma to -1 now. The new gammas look a lot better than before.
> 
> I left my colour (greyscale and gamut) settings as before but someone mentioned that a recalibration improves things further. I haven’t had the time...
> Question: anyone wants to give my DYNAMIC HDR settings a go? They give about 60% more brightness than Digital Cinema and still with relatively good colour. If you are a colour freak, you will spot stuff but it’s great for games even then. 😉


Hello rollon1980,
I just had the best bargain on a brand new 6050UB with the wireless transmitter, and I am totally amazed by the picture I have.
I will spent way more time in my batcave now, rather than in front on my LG OLED 65E9.
Coming from an epson TW7300, this is a huge improvement.
I am in to try your Dynamic HDR settings as well as DYNAMIC SDR settings, if you have any.
I will be a great starting point before I got in calibration.
The lamp still need to achieve at least 100 hours.

Regards,


----------



## fredworld

Porknz said:


> So there is a disclaimer when you buy that says there is some stuff on here for consumers, but it's mostly for professionals and requires specialized equipment. So for a guy that knows nothing about calibration, is this useful? I was interested initially, thinking it would be a crutch to help me do some calibrations. The disclaimers don't make it sound like that. Are there any crutches for first time calibrators to use? Thanks.



There are basic patterns on the disc that anyone can use without specialized equipment except working eyeballs. 

It's all detailed on the website's *Articles*.
Many of the patterns will be useless to a novice or anyone without the proper equipment but there is plenty to use for beginners to get going in the right direction. Then decide if a pro calibration is needed for tweaking.


----------



## HTSteve

skylarlove1999 said:


> It means you could hang the projector 29 inches above or below the screen or anywhere in between. Now the calculator doesn't account for the bulkhead being in front of your screen so but I don't think you will have any issue. I have an 8 ft soffit that hangs down six inches from my ceiling. The soffit starts 8 ft from my screen . My projector is 16ft from my current 120 inch 16x9 screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Perfect. Thanks.

I hope this projector meets my expectations. I am coming from an old Infocus 7210 (720p) from over 15 years ago. It has treated me well, but I want 4K capable (faux 4K is good enough, just want to handle 4K material), price is right. So I have my fingers crossed.


----------



## Porknz

fredworld said:


> There are basic patterns on the disc that anyone can use without specialized equipment except working eyeballs.
> 
> It's all detailed on the website's *Articles*.
> Many of the patterns will be useless to a novice or anyone without the proper equipment but there is plenty to use for beginners to get going in the right direction. Then decide if a pro calibration is needed for tweaking.



So if I have done NO calibration and know nothing about it, still worth getting the disk to give me some basics on setting color, brightness, etc.? Is there for sure some part of the disk that would help me do some calibration if I have none done?


----------



## pdoherty972

Porknz said:


> Tell me more about this calibration disk! I know zero about calibration, and it seems like a deep subject to learn.


Seems this would be a poor choice for a newbie - I’m avoiding it for that reason. Reviews on Amazon make clear this disk has zero instructions on the disk. You have to get a PDF or webpage for instructions. I personally like the Disney World of Wonder disk - easy to use.


----------



## Porknz

pdoherty972 said:


> Seems this would be a poor choice for a newbie - I’m avoiding it for that reason. Reviews on Amazon make clear this disk has zero instructions on the disk. You have to get a PDF or webpage for instructions. I personally like the Disney World of Wonder disk - easy to use.



I'll check that one out of it's better for a first timer.


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTSteve said:


> Perfect. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this projector meets my expectations. I am coming from an old Infocus 7210 (720p) from over 15 years ago. It has treated me well, but I want 4K capable (faux 4K is good enough, just want to handle 4K material), price is right. So I have my fingers crossed.


I guarantee you'll be super happy.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Porknz said:


> So if I have done NO calibration and know nothing about it, still worth getting the disk to give me some basics on setting color, brightness, etc.? Is there for sure some part of the disk that would help me do some calibration if I have none done?



IMHO, yes, but YMMV. I'm not familiar with the Disney disc mentioned earlier. If you're not comfortable with the Getting Started articles and the process to follow in a DIY mode, then,... well, it's up to you. For me after spending nearly $3k for a projector, $40 for a disc to tweak my $3k investment is a bargain. Everyone learns any set up process of a projector at their own pace. I can't add more than that. Good luck with your choices.


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, more testing done on Xbox one x.
> 
> Thereâ€™️s definitely an updated pixel structure from before even at 60hz. Iâ€™️m running 10bit per channel at 4:2:2 both SDR and HDR.
> 
> 4K games that had noticeable aliasing like Halo 5 and Halo 4 MCC have reduced aliasing. They do have some inherent jagged edges but that was made worse by the Epson downrezzing then e-shifting the image. The image looks smoother and with more detail now. Iâ€™️m not saying 4K native but it looks really lovely.
> 
> 4K HDR games look great with the new HDR tone maps. Both dark and bright areas have more detail!
> 
> Also, checked out Interstellar on UHD. It has alternating shots between normal print and IMAX camera shots. You can really see the difference in resolution now. Lovely 🙂
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I wish the 1.03 pixel structure was present at 4K 60Hz I simply cannot detect it (it's not from lack of trying, even under magnification). /forum/images/smilies/cool.gif
> 
> It's obvious at 24Hz and a little less at 30Hz, then at 50Hz I can just barely make out a slight variance from 60Hz but at 60Hz it looks the same as 1.01 (maybe there is a setting or two causing the variance that we seem to be seeing... image enhancement?). I took pixel pics while still on 1.01 so that I would not go from memory alone and there is an obvious difference from 24Hz to 60Hz (with 24Hz being very crisp/clean and well defined).
> 
> 
> Regarding the pixel alignment discussion...
> 
> I have found that I can make micro adjustments without losing resolution/detail/clarity.
> 
> Obviously this will vary unit to unit and the amount of shift adjustment in use means we can all have a different end result.
> 
> I have tested it with tracking/phase patterns that make any loss obvious since it would hinder the pixel mapping (much worse than the pixel shifting/scaling).
> 
> When a pc is your main source and used for more than video playback any funky business becomes very obvious.
> 
> *** I also need to say that my findings could be different since my 5050UB is near perfect alignment/convergence out of the box (we all have to remember that most of us are making claims based upon a single sample of these units). /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> 
> Bottom line... the over-all image has improved from 1.03 and that's all we can hope for. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...


I believe you. It’s curious is all. It could be due to a lot of reasons re pixel structure. 🙂 

May I ask what pixel structure you see at 60hz, please? I’m not saying my memory could not be faulty but I remember seeing two pixel shift positions clearly as separate defined pixels. Now I see a small diagonal line instead of two pixels. The diagonal lines get larger and almost merge by the time you get to 24p. 

I used to work for a software company and it happened many times that the developer swore he checked in a change into a certain branch of code but as much as I tested I still couldn’t see the change. Then he goes... oh **** I checked it into the wrong branch! We even had changed revert in production after it was fixed in a previous version because of incorrect branch tracking.

I’m just saying you guys have a US firmware (which has B&W cinema picture mode). We have a different firewall ware with that omitted so not sure if it’s the same branch of code. Who knows if there’s any difference. Mmm 😕


----------



## rollon1980

Also remember I’m not using a PC and not sending 32bit colour. The PC usually sends 4:4:4 and I have not tested that at all.


----------



## Porknz

https://www.avforums.com/reviews/spears-munsil-uhd-hdr-benchmark-4k-blu-ray-review.16440


 Found this while googling and it actually makes me think this might be useful for me.


----------



## rollon1980

skylarlove1999 said:


> HTSteve said:
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> I hope this projector meets my expectations. I am coming from an old Infocus 7210 (720p) from over 15 years ago. It has treated me well, but I want 4K capable (faux 4K is good enough, just want to handle 4K material), price is right. So I have my fingers crossed.
> 
> 
> 
> I guarantee you'll be super happy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Haha! Technology has moved on a LOT since then. Yes, you will be mooooooore than delighted. 🙂


----------



## jklow888

Just watched Valerian in 4K - HDR colours are way better as is the brightness which I always struggled with as that disc is also DV. Also switched panel alignment off (I needed 1 pixel in each direction at most) and things look sharper - the text during The Martian 4K looks crisp. Will watch some 1080p's tonight to see how that looks. With the latest firmware ... for the money this projector is bang for the buck !
@rollon1980 - would like to see your settings per previous post to try them out.


----------



## rollon1980

jklow888 said:


> Just watched Valerian in 4K - HDR colours are way better as is the brightness which I always struggled with as that disc is also DV. Also switched panel alignment off (I needed 1 pixel in each direction at most) and things look sharper - the text during The Martian 4K looks crisp. Will watch some 1080p's tonight to see how that looks. With the latest firmware ... for the money this projector is bang for the buck !
> 
> @rollon1980 - would like to see your settings per previous post to try them out.


No worries. I’m away now so give me until Monday to get them off the projector. Just remind me by answering to this post of I forgot by Monday night! Cheers!


----------



## noob00224

pdoherty972 said:


> Seems this would be a poor choice for a newbie - I’m avoiding it for that reason. Reviews on Amazon make clear this disk has zero instructions on the disk. You have to get a PDF or webpage for instructions. I personally like the Disney World of Wonder disk - easy to use.


+1 for the Disney WOW.


----------



## Fox1966

Last night I was able to really spend some time with the 5050 after updating it to 1.03. First, I watched a good bit of Blue Planet II from 4K disc. I was astounded at how incredible the HDR looks now! It truly did look close to my OLED - I don't see how an image from a projector could look any better. If any of you have this disc, check out how it looks after the 1.03 update and prepare to be "wowed."

Then, we moved on to Midway on 4K disc....only watched about half of it last night, but it was just absolutely incredible. The colors, detail, black levels, and HDR highlights were jaw dropping. I'm not using anything else for tone mapping (I do have a Panny 420 but I am not converting HDR to SDR), and my projector has never been calibrated, (my 5050 is only about a month old with a little over 100 hours on the bulb) I don't know what Epson did with this update, but whatever it was, it must have been wizardry because it truly made quite a difference for me in sharpness, black levels, color saturation, and especially HDR. My partner said the same thing. I can't wait to check out more movies and games today. I'm so incredibly happy with my 5050!


----------



## skylarlove1999

Fox1966 said:


> Last night I was able to really spend some time with the 5050 after updating it to 1.03. First, I watched a good bit of Blue Planet II from 4K disc. I was astounded at how incredible the HDR looks now! It truly did look close to my OLED - I don't see how an image from a projector could look any better. If any of you have this disc, check out how it looks after the 1.03 update and prepared to be "wowed."
> 
> 
> 
> Then, we moved on to Midway on 4K disc....only watched about half of it last night, but it was just absolutely incredible. The colors, detail, black levels, and HDR highlights were jaw dropping. I'm not using anything else for tone mapping (I do have a Panny 420 but I am not converting HDR to SDR), and my projector has never been calibrated, (my 5050 is only about a month old with a little over 100 hours on the bulb) I don't know what Epson did with this update, but whatever it was, it must have been wizardry because it truly made quite a difference for me in sharpness, black levels, color saturation, and especially HDR. My partner said the same thing. I can't wait to check out more movies and games today. I'm so incredibly happy with my 5050!


I completely agree with your post thank you for sharing your impression

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

skylarlove1999 said:


> I completely agree with your post thank you for sharing your impression
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I, also, updated to v1.03 (thanks skylarlove1999 for the nudge. Shortly thereafter the FW update appeared on the Epson site). First thing I noticed was better details in shadows. Black clothing had more noticeable creases and stitching. Half-lit faces in medium shots had more evident features. Colors of interiors looked more natural and better lit. All this and still a good sense of image depth, maybe better, was apparent. I'm sure there's more I missed but these are my first impressions.

I did a quick run of the Spears & Muncil UHD Benchmark disc for brightness, contrast and color/tint. I made some very minor adjustments of just a notch or two. The contrast bars had slightly more visibility higher up the scale, the brightness bars were still seen at a lower brightness setting and the color/tint panels blended nearer to seamless than I've ever seen. My HDR setting remained at 5. 

Now if Epson can just improve judder reduction at 24hz without Frame Interpolation....


----------



## biglen

Has anyone watched Guardians of the Galaxy? There's a scene in the beginning, where Chris Pratt is in that cave, and he shoots over a ravine, and there are a couple creatures below. Even after the update, I can barely see them because it's so dark. Has that improved for anyone, or is it just a super dark scene?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Has anyone watched Guardians of the Galaxy? There's a scene in the beginning, where Chris Pratt is in that cave, and he shoots over a ravine, and there are a couple creatures below. Even after the update, I can barely see them because it's so dark. Has that improved for anyone, or is it just a super dark scene?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I will take a look later this afternoon. My guess is that the scene is just really dark and the director's intention was not to see the details in that part of the scene

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

skylarlove1999 said:


> I will take a look later this afternoon. My guess is that the scene is just really dark and the director's intention was not to see the details in that part of the scene
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Okay, I was going to use that scene as a reference for the new update, because I knew it was really dark with the old firmware. I'm searching for anything that shows the improvements with the new firmware. I'm feeling left out, because I'm not seeing any improvement. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

biglen said:


> skylarlove1999 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will take a look later this afternoon. My guess is that the scene is just really dark and the director's intention was not to see the details in that part of the scene
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, I was going to use that scene as a reference for the new update, because I knew it was really dark with the old firmware. I'm searching for anything that shows the improvements with the new firmware. I'm feeling left out, because I'm not seeing any improvement.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Iam feeling the same way. I do see a little brighter highlights. But going back and forth with the panasonic doing sdr conversion and not, I still prefer the panasonic tone mapping. IMO!

Also I can confirm the pixel grid looks different in 60fps to 24fps. Less grid is visible in 24fps, but it introduces some flicker.

I wasn't complaining before so Iam not complaining now!


----------



## jorisdriesen

Guys,

I'm not able to update the firmware. I have it downloaded onto an USB stick, formatted in FAT. Tried putting only the zip-file on the drive, only the extracted .bin file and only the extracted folder and in all 3 situations the projector just shuts down after a few seconds of having all lights lighting up. I did insert the drive while projector was unplugged, and then plugged it back in while holding the power button.

Any ideas what could be the problem ?


----------



## skylarlove1999

gunlife said:


> Iam feeling the same way. I do see a little brighter highlights. But going back and forth with the panasonic doing sdr conversion and not, I still prefer the panasonic tone mapping. IMO!
> 
> Also I can confirm the pixel grid looks different in 60fps to 24fps. Less grid is visible in 24fps, but it introduces some flicker.
> 
> I wasn't complaining before so Iam not complaining now!


I imagine it is entirely possible that those of you who are using the Panasonic for tone mapping and sending SDR signal to the projector are not seeing the same improvement as those of us who are allowing the projector to do the tone mapping.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jorisdriesen said:


> Guys,
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not able to update the firmware. I have it downloaded onto an USB stick, formatted in FAT. Tried putting only the zip-file on the drive, only the extracted .bin file and only the extracted folder and in all 3 situations the projector just shuts down after a few seconds of having all lights lighting up. I did insert the drive while projector was unplugged, and then plugged it back in while holding the power button.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas what could be the problem ?


The Epson projector seem to like the cheapest possible USB sticks so I would try another. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

OK, I do have quite an expensive one for big file transfer, will try to find a cheaper one around here.


----------



## gunlife

skylarlove1999 said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iam feeling the same way. I do see a little brighter highlights. But going back and forth with the panasonic doing sdr conversion and not, I still prefer the panasonic tone mapping. IMO!
> 
> Also I can confirm the pixel grid looks different in 60fps to 24fps. Less grid is visible in 24fps, but it introduces some flicker.
> 
> I wasn't complaining before so Iam not complaining now!
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine it is entirely possible that those of you who are using the Panasonic for tone mapping and sending SDR signal to the projector are not seeing the same improvement as those of us who are allowing the projector to do the tone mapping.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I only use the panasonic to display disks. I stream with an Nvidia shield. I have it outputing 4k60 with auto switch dynamic range. I have rewatched some scenes that I am firmiliar with. Like I said main thing I personally see is brighter highlights. 

I am a camera guy... do quite a bit of photography and videograpghy... I would say the panasonic gives about a 1.5-2.0 Stop advantage for the black floor vs the Epson tone mapping. 

BTW to anyone reading these forum please understand we are splitting hairs at this point. Either way the 5050 throws a stunning, bright, color accurate image with a decent black floor. So please don't think I am attacking or talking down the Epson product.


----------



## jorisdriesen

jorisdriesen said:


> OK, I do have quite an expensive one for big file transfer, will try to find a cheaper one around here.


Same result with a cheaper older USB drive. Projector turns on, all lights are lighting up and after about 10 seconds it shuts down again.


----------



## skylarlove1999

jorisdriesen said:


> Same result with a cheaper older USB drive. Projector turns on, all lights are lighting up and after about 10 seconds it shuts down again.


As soon as you see the lights come on all three of them then you need to take your hand off the power button immediately sorry if you are already doing that and that you're having such difficulty I know it is not fun it can be extremely frustrating. Not too proud to admit this but it wouldn't work for me my wife had to do it LOL for some reason her touch worked lol

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

I'm waiting like 1 second before I let go. Will try again.

My expensive USB drive's lights are flickering in the 10 seconds that the projector is turned on, which means the projector is reading from it...

** EDIT** I should only have the .bin file on the drive, right ? File is called EPSONPJ_H928YRC012.bin


----------



## biglen

jorisdriesen said:


> Guys,
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not able to update the firmware. I have it downloaded onto an USB stick, formatted in FAT. Tried putting only the zip-file on the drive, only the extracted .bin file and only the extracted folder and in all 3 situations the projector just shuts down after a few seconds of having all lights lighting up. I did insert the drive while projector was unplugged, and then plugged it back in while holding the power button.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas what could be the problem ?


The ONLY thing that should be on the stick, is the bin. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

biglen said:


> The ONLY thing that should be on the stick, is the bin.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes thanks, have tried that with 2 different USB sticks now and no cigar.


----------



## noob00224

@jorisdriesen make sure it's the USB slot:



BIC2 said:


> OK, I'm an idiot. Even with all the lights on, my theater is kind of dark. Using light from phone, I see what looks like a USB port. Upon reading label, it's the optical HDMI. Look for the one that actually says USB.


----------



## StachStach

I haven't been able to run an HDMI cable from my projector to my receiver yet, so I'm still using the built-in WirelessHD with my 5050UBe. I'm aware of the 4K/60 HDR limitations of WirelessHD, but is there any chance that a firmware update could fix that since the official spec of WirelessHD is able to deliver > 18 Gbps?


----------



## biglen

jorisdriesen said:


> Yes thanks, have tried that with 2 different USB sticks now and no cigar.


Try formatting in exfat. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

Is formatted in exFAT and yes I had it in the USB-A slot .


----------



## biglen

jorisdriesen said:


> Is formatted in exFAT and yes I had it in the USB-A slot .


You have the 5050 unplugged with the stick in the USB port, hold the power button down, and keep it held down while plugging the power back in. Then release when all the lights come on. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

biglen said:


> You have the 5050 unplugged with the stick in the USB port, hold the power button down, and keep it held down while plugging the power back in. Then release when all the lights come on.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Did exactly that. It powers on, all lights come on, I release the power button and after 10 seconds the projector powers down again.


----------



## biglen

jorisdriesen said:


> Did exactly that. It powers on, all lights come on, I release the power button and after 10 seconds the projector powers down again.


Are you 100% sure the sticks aren't partitioned at all? I had a stick that wasn't working, because it had about a 50mb partition, that was used for the stick company's software. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> Are you 100% sure the sticks aren't partitioned at all? I had a stick that wasn't working, because it had about a 50mb partition, that was used for the stick company's software.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


You make a good point I always wipe the USB completely clean and look for anything that might be on it even if it was directly from the factory.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sekosche

skylarlove1999 said:


> You make a good point I always wipe the USB completely clean and look for anything that might be on it even if it was directly from the factory.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



To the poster having issues, I reformatted my stick to FAT32 before updating but took two tries to get the power button hold timing right. Let go after about two seconds as soon as all the lights kick to orange or it will continue to boot as normal.


----------



## covsound1

Just imagine you did a firmware update and at bricked your machine. This used to be a common event in the past. Thanks to latest check some software all information has to be 100%. Everything on the USB drive will be looked at as the firmware update. Some usb manufacturers have software that will not allow you to delete it even if you format USB drive. You're best course of action would be to physically delete their software before formatting.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## termite

Sekosche said:


> To the poster having issues, I reformatted my stick to FAT32 before updating but took two tries to get the power button hold timing right. Let go after about two seconds as soon as all the lights kick to orange or it will continue to boot as normal.


I just updated my 5050 last night. Tried a newer USB3.0 stick formatted exFat but that failed to get the Epson to upgrade. After few unsuccessful tries I found another very old 2G USB drive I had lying around. Formatted clean to FAT32 and Epson had no issue recognizing that at do the upgrade on the first try.


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> Just imagine you did a firmware update and at bricked your machine. This used to be a common event in the past. Thanks to latest check some software all information has to be 100%. Everything on the USB drive will be looked at as the firmware update. Some usb manufacturers have software that will not allow you to delete it even if you format USB drive. You're best course of action would be to physically delete their software before formatting.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I always use partition software, to format the stick to a single partition. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

I often glance at the 5040 forum. I and I notice a big fuss about the movie Dark Phoenix and the comparison with the Jvc X7 in HDR. I Streamed this movie last. Members let me tell you if you really wanted see what your unit is capable off and don't mind dropping your brightness level a couple of ticks and using your slider on level 2!With color filter engagement. This is now one of my reference movies!!!! Please try this and share your opinion. (even if you are in the high brightness camp this looked bright enough to light up a 130 inch screen!)

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> I always use partition software, to format the stick to a single partition.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Wanted to let you know I can see the little space rats better now. That is a very tough clip.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

covsound1 said:


> Wanted to let you know I can see the little space rats better now. That is a very tough clip.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I agree I can see more space rats in the cave during Guardians of the Galaxy. Very dark scene. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> Wanted to let you know I can see the little space rats better now. That is a very tough clip.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


It wasn't the space rats, it was the creatures in that ravine, that he flew over. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

I formatted both sticks twice, one regular and one fast format. Still nothing. Will try tomorrow with the partition manager to check for hidden partitions and then also try playing with the button timing.


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> It wasn't the space rats, it was the creatures in that ravine, that he flew over.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 OK i remember them will look again and let you know if i notice a difference.


----------



## Manu9

Hi all, 

A couple of questions, I want to go with a 5050, but my room’s length is 4 meters, and I was hoping to get a 125inches 2.35:1 grey silver ticket screen for it, will that work? (calculator says it will with max zoom I think, does that affect the image?)

Plus sitting at roughly 3 to 3.5 meters away will be fine?

And lastly if not, would you recommend that with a smaller screen or the Optoma P1 with a 120 16:9 instead?

Ambient light can be highly controlled but the walls etc are white.

Will also be getting the Panasonic ub420 to go along with it as well as using my PC and AVR so the 2.35 fact is highly exciting especially coming from a 21:9 monitor.


----------



## biglen

jorisdriesen said:


> I formatted both sticks twice, one regular and one fast format. Still nothing. Will try tomorrow with the partition manager to check for hidden partitions and then also try playing with the button timing.


There's literally no "timing" needed. You unplug the projector, plug the USB stick in the port, hold the power button down, then while still holding it down, plug in the power cord. When all the lights light up, release the power button. It's that simple. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

biglen said:


> There's literally no "timing" needed. You unplug the projector, plug the USB stick in the port, hold the power button down, then while still holding it down, plug in the power cord. When all the lights light up, release the power button. It's that simple.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I'm not sure how simple it is because I couldn't get it done the first three times I tried LOL my wife finally had to step in.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> I'm not sure how simple it is because I couldn't get it done the first three times I tried LOL my wife finally had to step in.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The woman's touch always work's!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## GIbryl

Manu9 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> A couple of questions, I want to go with a 5050, but my room’s length is 4 meters, and I was hoping to get a 125inches 2.35:1 grey silver ticket screen for it, will that work? (calculator says it will with max zoom I think, does that affect the image?)
> 
> Plus sitting at roughly 3 to 3.5 meters away will be fine?
> 
> And lastly if not, would you recommend that with a smaller screen or the Optoma P1 with a 120 16:9 instead?
> 
> Ambient light can be highly controlled but the walls etc are white.
> 
> Will also be getting the Panasonic ub420 to go along with it as well as using my PC and AVR so the 2.35 fact is highly exciting especially coming from a 21:9 monitor.



Anyway you could test one out? I’ve a 6050(9400) and it ‘just’ fit 120inch (16:9) screen from 3.75m. At 125 inch 2.35 at that distance might be too close. 
Didn’t notice any image problem at near max zoom tho so if it fits you should be good 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## misterg51

covsound1 said:


> I definitely understand your comment about audio quest cables. I also regulate my power and condition my power before it goes into the projector been doing this for years. Agreed you can also push color without the color blooming, Edge definition is better than what we had before. I am elated that you brought this up as most would find these things useful.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



I think that I have saved my equipment countless times during outages and brownouts. The other thing my Furman does, is lower the noise floor. AC grunge and signal interference are the enemy, as is fan and environment noise. The Audioquest power 3 takes the filtering to another level specifically in the 4K/8K video area. The Furman is lacking here. Audioquest uses shielding, and solid core copper and silver coatings. The cables are also directional based on their properties and are marked on the connectors. Numerous high-end sites review their products on equipment that sometimes costs more than a luxury car. The one linked for my Powerstation 3 at first made me skeptical. Then I used it to filter my 5050 and video sources. I already have Vodka cables in to the processor, and active fiber run to the 5050. The sound has always been glorious, and now the video has depth and definition much like the sound does. Don't trust my ears/eyes, go to a dealer that will spend the time to let you blind A/B test. If you pick the inexpensive ones, so be it. If you have one, bring your wife along. Females have better senses and the wife appreciation factor pays huge benefits (she might even pay for it )


----------



## Luminated67

GIbryl said:


> Anyway you could test one out? I’ve a 6050(9400) and it ‘just’ fit 120inch (16:9) screen from 3.75m. At 125 inch 2.35 at that distance might be too close.
> Didn’t notice any image problem at near max zoom tho so if it fits you should be good
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just checked and minimum distance for a 125” 2.35:1 screen is 3.96M. At 3.5M he maximum screen size will be 111” 2.35:1 screen.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Watching Dark Knight Rises on 4K UHD disc using my Panasonic 820 and my Epson 6050. Amazing image. Do yourself a favor and pop it in. Whatever Epson did with the firmware update is working like magic on this title. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## misterg51

skylarlove1999 said:


> Watching Dark Knight Rises on 4K UHD disc using my Panasonic 820 and my Epson 6050. Amazing image. Do yourself a favor and pop it in. Whatever Epson did with the firmware update is working like magic on this title.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



I have an 820 and 9000. Please, what settings for HDR on Panasonic and projector? Thanks!


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Watching Dark Knight Rises on 4K UHD disc using my Panasonic 820 and my Epson 6050. Amazing image. Do yourself a favor and pop it in. Whatever Epson did with the firmware update is working like magic on this title.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


OK I'm gonna give this one a shot! That one was also a tough movie being dark movie. The new release of the invisible man was tough to look at with some of its really low apl. I simply raised the HDR slider to one and just a couple of ticks down on brightness bingo I found the movie. Movies with more of a normal apl that didn't need this help like Dark Phoenix simply stunning doing this. The 50% hit you get with using the color filter now looks like 20%!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

skylarlove1999 said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iam feeling the same way. I do see a little brighter highlights. But going back and forth with the panasonic doing sdr conversion and not, I still prefer the panasonic tone mapping. IMO!
> 
> Also I can confirm the pixel grid looks different in 60fps to 24fps. Less grid is visible in 24fps, but it introduces some flicker.
> 
> I wasn't complaining before so Iam not complaining now!
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine it is entirely possible that those of you who are using the Panasonic for tone mapping and sending SDR signal to the projector are not seeing the same improvement as those of us who are allowing the projector to do the tone mapping.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I disabled even the Panasonic optimiser on my Panasonic with the new update! The Epson now does a MUCH MUCH BETTER job than the Panasonic optimiser. 
I would advise to LEAVE IT OFF. 😉


----------



## skylarlove1999

I don't take great pictures with my phone but it looks amazing in person.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rollon1980 said:


> I disabled even the Panasonic optimiser on my Panasonic with the new update! The Epson now does a MUCH MUCH BETTER job than the Panasonic optimiser.
> I would advise to LEAVE IT OFF. 😉


Really?? Are you still setting the nits level in the Panasonic by choosing LCD/projector?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

Fox1966 said:


> Last night I was able to really spend some time with the 5050 after updating it to 1.03. First, I watched a good bit of Blue Planet II from 4K disc. I was astounded at how incredible the HDR looks now! It truly did look close to my OLED - I don't see how an image from a projector could look any better. If any of you have this disc, check out how it looks after the 1.03 update and prepare to be "wowed."
> 
> Then, we moved on to Midway on 4K disc....only watched about half of it last night, but it was just absolutely incredible. The colors, detail, black levels, and HDR highlights were jaw dropping. I'm not using anything else for tone mapping (I do have a Panny 420 but I am not converting HDR to SDR), and my projector has never been calibrated, (my 5050 is only about a month old with a little over 100 hours on the bulb) I don't know what Epson did with this update, but whatever it was, it must have been wizardry because it truly made quite a difference for me in sharpness, black levels, color saturation, and especially HDR. My partner said the same thing. I can't wait to check out more movies and games today. I'm so incredibly happy with my 5050!


Completely agree! Planet Earth II was a bit blah with the previous firmware compared to my OLED. Now it looks a lot closer perceptually and that’s saying a lot. It looks amazing. 🙂 of course it will never look like the OLED but detail, colour and highlights just pop and closer to what I’m seeing on the OLED. Amazing update. 🙂


----------



## covsound1

misterg51 said:


> I think that I have saved my equipment countless times during outages and brownouts. The other thing my Furman does, is lower the noise floor. AC grunge and signal interference are the enemy, as is fan and environment noise. The Audioquest power 3 takes the filtering to another level specifically in the 4K/8K video area. The Furman is lacking here. Audioquest uses shielding, and solid core copper and silver coatings. The cables are also directional based on their properties and are marked on the connectors. Numerous high-end sites review their products on equipment that sometimes costs more than a luxury car. The one linked for my Powerstation 3 at first made me skeptical. Then I used it to filter my 5050 and video sources. I already have Vodka cables in to the processor, and active fiber run to the 5050. The sound has always been glorious, and now the video has depth and definition much like the sound does. Don't trust my ears/eyes, go to a dealer that will spend the time to let you blind A/B test. If you pick the inexpensive ones, so be it. If you have one, bring your wife along. Females have better senses and the wife appreciation factor pays huge benefits (she might even pay for it )


I notice in your signature that you have calman home enthusiast's software. I wish I had used it before this update. Some of the stuff that you talk about can be considered black magic but like you I trust my eyes and ears. With that said it is amazing how some of the most profound differences can be in something you never even considered. And yes at the end of the day with my little feeble mind i bring in the little lady .

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Really?? Are you still setting the nits level in the Panasonic by choosing LCD/projector?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


This is where I was going next!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rollon1980 said:


> I disabled even the Panasonic optimiser on my Panasonic with the new update! The Epson now does a MUCH MUCH BETTER job than the Panasonic optimiser.
> I would advise to LEAVE IT OFF.


I did as you suggested. Holy **** Batman!!!. Less blooming around spectral highlights and it is actually brighter but with improved shadow detail. Thank you so much for posting that tip!! The image is also more stable. It is like a giant OLED now. The highlights are blinding in the best way possible.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

skylarlove1999 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I disabled even the Panasonic optimiser on my Panasonic with the new update! The Epson now does a MUCH MUCH BETTER job than the Panasonic optimiser.
> I would advise to LEAVE IT OFF. ðŸ˜‰
> 
> 
> 
> Really?? Are you still setting the nits level in the Panasonic by choosing LCD/projector?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ah good point. I only have the ub420 so have less options. I always set the OLED option so the Panasonic would map down to 1000nits and then the Epson from there. 

However with the new update I noticed that this robs brightness and the Epson does a better job in mapping the highlights now. (Check our Aquaman without the optimiser now!!)

I do use between 6-8 on the HDR slider on the Epson tho (or 3-4 when in Digital cinema).

Also, I prefer to use my massively bright calibration for HDR using:
- Dynamic mode
- corrected greyscale but leaving some errors at high IRE to allow more brightness
- high lamp

I’ll post settings when I’m back home later / tomorrow.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Just checked and minimum distance for a 125” 2.35:1 screen is 3.96M. At 3.5M he maximum screen size will be 111” 2.35:1 screen.


Those numbers sound right. My 5050 is 13'3" from the screen, and my image is around 130".

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

skylarlove1999 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I disabled even the Panasonic optimiser on my Panasonic with the new update! The Epson now does a MUCH MUCH BETTER job than the Panasonic optimiser.
> I would advise to LEAVE IT OFF.
> 
> 
> 
> I did as you suggested. Holy **** Batman!!!. Less blooming around spectral highlights and it is actually brighter but with improved shadow detail. Thank you so much for posting that tip!! The image is also more stable. It is like a giant OLED now. The highlights are blinding in the best way possible.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yup and yay!!! You’re welcome! 🙂


----------



## rollon1980

I have more tips re calibrating the unit, especially as HDR has lifted blacks on most titles (very few are mastered with 0nits for black). I don’t know if Alaric’s settings actually take this into account. I found a way to resolve it without affecting other brightness levels (which the brightness control does and unfortunately the gamma controls wouldn’t work for this either) 

I’ll post settings tomorrow. 🙂


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> I did as you suggested. Holy **** Batman!!!. Less blooming around spectral highlights and it is actually brighter but with improved shadow detail. Thank you so much for posting that tip!! The image is also more stable. It is like a giant OLED now. The highlights are blinding in the best way possible.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


This is why for the last 3 days I did almost all of my testing streaming as I want to take the penny out of the equation. You claim you don't take good pictures but that's a perfect example of HDR in all its glory!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rollon1980 said:


> I have more tips re calibrating the unit, especially as HDR has lifted blacks on most titles (very few are mastered with 0nits for black). I don’t know if Alaric’s settings actually take this into account. I found a way to resolve it without affecting other brightness levels (which the brightness control does and unfortunately the gamma controls wouldn’t work for this either)
> 
> I’ll post settings tomorrow. 🙂


Pretty sure we just became best friends. That one tip has just improved overall image quality so much. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

skylarlove1999 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have more tips re calibrating the unit, especially as HDR has lifted blacks on most titles (very few are mastered with 0nits for black). I donâ€™️t know if Alaricâ€™️s settings actually take this into account. I found a way to resolve it without affecting other brightness levels (which the brightness control does and unfortunately the gamma controls wouldnâ€™️t work for this either)
> 
> Iâ€™️ll post settings tomorrow. ðŸ™️‚
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure we just became best friends. That one tip has just improved overall image quality so much.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hehe. I’m glad! Happy to help! 🙂


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> I have more tips re calibrating the unit, especially as HDR has lifted blacks on most titles (very few are mastered with 0nits for black). I don’t know if Alaric’s settings actually take this into account. I found a way to resolve it without affecting other brightness levels (which the brightness control does and unfortunately the gamma controls wouldn’t work for this either)
> 
> I’ll post settings tomorrow. 🙂


Humm! I wonder if this has to do with black level settings. should we be using the high setting as the physical metadata is built into the high setting.This effects the new jvc units too?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have more tips re calibrating the unit, especially as HDR has lifted blacks on most titles (very few are mastered with 0nits for black). I donâ€™️t know if Alaricâ€™️s settings actually take this into account. I found a way to resolve it without affecting other brightness levels (which the brightness control does and unfortunately the gamma controls wouldnâ€™️t work for this either)
> 
> Iâ€™️ll post settings tomorrow. ðŸ™️‚
> 
> 
> 
> Humm! I wonder if this has to do with black level settings. should we be using the high setting as the physical metadata is built into the high setting.This effects the new jvc units too?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I’m sorry I don’t follow fully. Where do you see a “black level setting”? 

Yes it’s an issue with all units. The JVC guys developed curves that has the black floor compensation. I don’t know if the new 4K JVC tone-mapping firmware resolves the black floor issue but it’s not as obvious on JVC as the blacks are blacker. 

On Epson with the previous firmware it was super obvious. On the new firmware maybe slightly improved. But even so, some movies have incorrect meta-data and slightly lifted blacks by design (think new Disney Star Wars) to make them look more like an “optical print”. Honestly, some directors should be shot. 😛

Btw, such a grading with intentional black floor will look as intended on a emissive mastering monitor, OLEDs and even high contrast JVCs. They will not look as intended on LCD and DLP without perceptual matching using black floor compensation.

I think Epson and other manufacturers are slowly learning this HDR business but just because you calibrate to “standard” doesn’t mean perceptually it will look correct. The HDR standard is one of the worst-thought-out standards in the history of displays. Absolutely shocking, but we are slowly getting there... 😉


----------



## aoaaron

rollon1980 said:


> I’m sorry I don’t follow fully. Where do you see a “black level setting”?
> 
> Yes it’s an issue with all units. The JVC guys developed curves that has the black floor compensation. I don’t know if the new 4K JVC tone-mapping firmware resolves the black floor issue but it’s not as obvious on JVC as the blacks are blacker.
> 
> On Epson with the previous firmware it was super obvious. On the new firmware maybe slightly improved. But even so, some movies have incorrect meta-data and slightly lifted blacks by design (think new Disney Star Wars) to make them look more like an “optical print”. Honestly, some directors should be shot. 😛
> 
> Btw, such a grading with intentional black floor will look as intended on a emissive mastering monitor, OLEDs and even high contrast JVCs. They will not look as intended on LCD and DLP without perceptual matching using black floor compensation.
> 
> I think Epson and other manufacturers are slowly learning this HDR business but just because you calibrate to “standard” doesn’t mean perceptually it will look correct. The HDR standard is one of the worst-thought-out standards in the history of displays. Absolutely shocking, but we are slowly getting there... 😉


Please share settings.

Has anyone got some sdr night settings 

I tried alaircs but I found them a bit lacking


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> I’m sorry I don’t follow fully. Where do you see a “black level setting”?
> 
> Yes it’s an issue with all units. The JVC guys developed curves that has the black floor compensation. I don’t know if the new 4K JVC tone-mapping firmware resolves the black floor issue but it’s not as obvious on JVC as the blacks are blacker.
> 
> On Epson with the previous firmware it was super obvious. On the new firmware maybe slightly improved. But even so, some movies have incorrect meta-data and slightly lifted blacks by design (think new Disney Star Wars) to make them look more like an “optical print”. Honestly, some directors should be shot. 😛
> 
> Btw, such a grading with intentional black floor will look as intended on a emissive mastering monitor, OLEDs and even high contrast JVCs. They will not look as intended on LCD and DLP without perceptual matching using black floor compensation.
> 
> I think Epson and other manufacturers are slowly learning this HDR business but just because you calibrate to “standard” doesn’t mean perceptually it will look correct. The HDR standard is one of the worst-thought-out standards in the history of displays. Absolutely shocking, but we are slowly getting there... 😉


OK I should have been more clear what I was referring to was the video ranch.(16=235low 0=235 high). I agree with all of your assessments about hdr. specially the one of very few HDR are master with 0 nits or black.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iâ€™️m sorry I donâ€™️t follow fully. Where do you see a â€œblack level settingâ€?
> 
> Yes itâ€™️s an issue with all units. The JVC guys developed curves that has the black floor compensation. I donâ€™️t know if the new 4K JVC tone-mapping firmware resolves the black floor issue but itâ€™️s not as obvious on JVC as the blacks are blacker.
> 
> On Epson with the previous firmware it was super obvious. On the new firmware maybe slightly improved. But even so, some movies have incorrect meta-data and slightly lifted blacks by design (think new Disney Star Wars) to make them look more like an â€œoptical printâ€. Honestly, some directors should be shot. ðŸ˜›
> 
> Btw, such a grading with intentional black floor will look as intended on a emissive mastering monitor, OLEDs and even high contrast JVCs. They will not look as intended on LCD and DLP without perceptual matching using black floor compensation.
> 
> I think Epson and other manufacturers are slowly learning this HDR business but just because you calibrate to â€œstandardâ€ doesnâ€™️t mean perceptually it will look correct. The HDR standard is one of the worst-thought-out standards in the history of displays. Absolutely shocking, but we are slowly getting there... ðŸ˜‰
> 
> 
> 
> OK I should have been more clear what I was referring to was the video ranch.(16=235low 0=235 high). I agree with all of your assessments about hdr. specially the one of very few HDR are master with 0 nits or black.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ok got you. My android player sometimes passes wrong video levels so I set that to 16-235. But that setting still doesn’t resolve the lifted / non 0nit mastering issue.

The only thing I found solved it for me is pulling the greyscale control down 2 clicks on all 3 colours once black was set to 0nit. I’ll share settings when I get home later. You might be sleeping by then if you’re in the US. 

Calibrating HDR to cut near black will solve lifted blacks in 80% of the disks and of course the few that are properly mastered to 0nit will cause a bit of black crush. But I’d rather live with that than most of the disks looking like a grey soup on dark scenes.


----------



## covsound1

covsound1 said:


> This is why for the last 3 days I did almost all of my testing streaming as I want to take the penny out of the equation. You claim you don't take good pictures but that's a perfect example of HDR in all its glory!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


This was at hdr9. On lamp medium. Vidieo range full. You are right I have to rew watch the movie.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

One more.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

This new tone mapping is incredible. Plus whatever they did to make the image appear sharper.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sekosche

covsound1 said:


> This was at hdr9. On lamp medium. Vidieo range full. You are right I have to rew watch the movie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Wow, that looks excellent for HDR 9! Before the update I didn’t really go above 5 or the image was usually too dark for my tastes.

I haven’t even had time to watch any content since applying the update, but I’m excited to try a few of these tweaks this week. First, going to turn off my panel alignment and the Panasonic optimizer and go from there.

Probably only have 100 hours on my 5050 (half that is my kid playing games), so that does make it harder for me to make comparisons prior to 1.03. I already thought this was an incredible PJ for the money, so any improvements from the stock performance is just icing on the cake...might have to slip into the media room tonight and fire it up.


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> Ok got you. My android player sometimes passes wrong video levels so I set that to 16-235. But that setting still doesn’t resolve the lifted / non 0nit mastering issue.
> 
> The only thing I found solved it for me is pulling the greyscale control down 2 clicks on all 3 colours once black was set to 0nit. I’ll share settings when I get home later. You might be sleeping by then if you’re in the US.
> 
> Calibrating HDR to cut near black will solve lifted blacks in 80% of the disks and of course the few that are properly mastered to 0nit will cause a bit of black crush. But I’d rather live with that than most of the disks looking like a grey soup on dark scenes.


Ok understand you. I also set mine under thanks. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

rollon1980 said:


> Ah good point. I only have the ub420 so have less options. I always set the OLED option so the Panasonic would map down to 1000nits and then the Epson from there.
> 
> However with the new update I noticed that this robs brightness and the Epson does a better job in mapping the highlights now. (Check our Aquaman without the optimiser now!!)
> 
> I do use between 6-8 on the HDR slider on the Epson tho (or 3-4 when in Digital cinema).
> 
> Also, I prefer to use my massively bright calibration for HDR using:
> - Dynamic mode
> - corrected greyscale but leaving some errors at high IRE to allow more brightness
> - high lamp
> 
> I’ll post settings when I’m back home later / tomorrow.


Like you, I get my 820 to tone map to 1000nits. This was mainly so that it was comparable to the output of HDR on Apple TV, and, in theory, the HDR slider on the projector would then not have to be fiddled with. If you disable the Optimiser, what do you think will happen with 1000 vs 4000 nit titles? Will you have to be changing the slider to compensate?


----------



## rollon1980

sddawson said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah good point. I only have the ub420 so have less options. I always set the OLED option so the Panasonic would map down to 1000nits and then the Epson from there.
> 
> However with the new update I noticed that this robs brightness and the Epson does a better job in mapping the highlights now. (Check our Aquaman without the optimiser now!!)
> 
> I do use between 6-8 on the HDR slider on the Epson tho (or 3-4 when in Digital cinema).
> 
> Also, I prefer to use my massively bright calibration for HDR using:
> - Dynamic mode
> - corrected greyscale but leaving some errors at high IRE to allow more brightness
> - high lamp
> 
> Iâ€™️ll post settings when Iâ€™️m back home later / tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> Like you, I get my 820 to tone map to 1000nits. This was mainly so that it was comparable to the output of HDR on Apple TV, and, in theory, the HDR slider on the projector would then not have to be fiddled with. If you disable the Optimiser, what do you think will happen with 1000 vs 4000 nit titles? Will you have to be changing the slider to compensate?
Click to expand...

Only way is to try it but it looks like to me that the new firmware doesn’t cut highlight detail even at higher HDR slider / brightness levels. It actually looks better without the optimiser on both 4000 and 1000 but titles.


----------



## DaGamePimp

I just tested my calibrated 5050 and it looks worse using OLED or High Luminance from the Panasonic 820, it cannot reproduce those levels even with the improved TM of 1.03.

It appears to blow out at the upper range even though it's not clipping everything above 235.

- Jason


----------



## Manu9

GIbryl said:


> Anyway you could test one out? I’ve a 6050(9400) and it ‘just’ fit 120inch (16:9) screen from 3.75m. At 125 inch 2.35 at that distance might be too close.
> Didn’t notice any image problem at near max zoom tho so if it fits you should be good
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Sadly I cannot, there aren't any here so I'm having it shipped from a different country. I don't mind going down to 120 or even 115 but the problem is I'm also limited with screens as I'll be ordering both from Amazon - if there's another place I'd be willing to try, but keep in mind returning is a big hassle as I'm in the Middle East.


Also for watching would a 125 2.35 give me a good image for 16:9 when I need that? I guess my question is would it be better to go with 120 16:9 and have bars for 2.35 or go with 125 2.35 and have bars for 16:9?


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> Has anyone watched Guardians of the Galaxy? There's a scene in the beginning, where Chris Pratt is in that cave, and he shoots over a ravine, and there are a couple creatures below. Even after the update, I can barely see them because it's so dark. Has that improved for anyone, or is it just a super dark scene?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I can make at out a little black snakes in a stream. Lamp med ,hdr5.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

biglen said:


> There's literally no "timing" needed. You unplug the projector, plug the USB stick in the port, hold the power button down, then while still holding it down, plug in the power cord. When all the lights light up, release the power button. It's that simple.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I think I did that about 20 times now.


----------



## rollon1980

skylarlove1999 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have more tips re calibrating the unit, especially as HDR has lifted blacks on most titles (very few are mastered with 0nits for black). I donâ€™️t know if Alaricâ€™️s settings actually take this into account. I found a way to resolve it without affecting other brightness levels (which the brightness control does and unfortunately the gamma controls wouldnâ€™️t work for this either)
> 
> Iâ€™️ll post settings tomorrow. ðŸ™️‚
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty sure we just became best friends. That one tip has just improved overall image quality so much.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ok, here are my settings I use when I need extreme light output! Try it with movies but especially games and TV shows. 

It is not super duper accurate (I have Digital Cinema for that), but I prefer to use this setting for most content unless it’s super dark sci fi. I minimised the errors at IREs where it’s most noticeable. Love love this setting for Xbox games. 

I have 700hrs on my lamp! 

Let me know how it works for you!

——————————————————


picture mode: dynamic
Color temp: 7
Skin tone: 4
Custom color temp:
Offset R: 48
Offset G: 48
Offset B: 48
Gain R: 50
Gain G: 40
Gain B: 50

Grayscale:
8 0:0:0
7 0:0:0
6 0:0:0
5 0:0:0
4 -5:0:-5
3 -5:0:-7
2 -3:0:-7
1 0:0:0

Gamma: -1
RGBCMY:
R: 50:50:48
G: 50:82:23
B:54:53:43
😄 57:56:13
M: 53:57:33
Y: 52:57:25

High Lamp / medium lamp also works! (I use medium lamp for Netflix shows and raise the HDR slider a bit)

HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.


----------



## covsound1

Sekosche said:


> Wow, that looks excellent for HDR 9! Before the update I didn’t really go above 5 or the image was usually too dark for my tastes.
> 
> I haven’t even had time to watch any content since applying the update, but I’m excited to try a few of these tweaks this week. First, going to turn off my panel alignment and the Panasonic optimizer and go from there.
> 
> Probably only have 100 hours on my 5050 (half that is my kid playing games), so that does make it harder for me to make comparisons prior to 1.03. I already thought this was an incredible PJ for the money, so any improvements from the stock performance is just icing on the cake...might have to slip into the media room tonight and fire it up.


I meant to reply sooner. At 106 inch you have excellent control of your picture. I believe I instaledl the update Thursday and I'm just starting to appreciate them improved black level. I wonder if the firmware took time to settle or my lamp is in that sweet spot at 485 hrs. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## drdig

Can someone clearly summarize what are the functions of the new update?

It would be appreciated if anyone who explained it did not use a Panasonic player, but an OPPO, Sony, etc.

Thank you.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rollon1980 said:


> Ok, here are my settings I use when I need extreme light output! Try it with movies but especially games and TV shows.
> 
> It is not super duper accurate (I have Digital Cinema for that), but I prefer to use this setting for most content unless it’s super dark sci fi. I minimised the errors at IREs where it’s most noticeable. Love love this setting for Xbox games.
> 
> I have 700hrs on my lamp!
> 
> Let me know how it works for you!
> 
> ——————————————————
> 
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 48
> Offset G: 48
> Offset B: 48
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 40
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 0:0:0
> 6 0:0:0
> 5 0:0:0
> 4 -5:0:-5
> 3 -5:0:-7
> 2 -3:0:-7
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: -1
> RGBCMY:
> R: 50:50:48
> G: 50:82:23
> B:54:53:43
> 😄 57:56:13
> M: 53:57:33
> Y: 52:57:25
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp also works! (I use medium lamp for Netflix shows and raise the HDR slider a bit)
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.


Thanks for posting this. Would you happen to have your Digital Cinema settings after the firmware update? I prefer the color spectrum using the filter. Thanks in advance bestie

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

jorisdriesen said:


> I think I did that about 20 times now.


Sorry you are having such a frustrating go of it. I know you are using the correct USB port and updating procedure. You have tried two USB sticks . Maybe try ordering the cheapest USB stick you can find. If you were here in the States I would mail you my USB stick. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## GIbryl

Manu9 said:


> Sadly I cannot, there aren't any here so I'm having it shipped from a different country. I don't mind going down to 120 or even 115 but the problem is I'm also limited with screens as I'll be ordering both from Amazon - if there's another place I'd be willing to try, but keep in mind returning is a big hassle as I'm in the Middle East.
> 
> 
> Also for watching would a 125 2.35 give me a good image for 16:9 when I need that? I guess my question is would it be better to go with 120 16:9 and have bars for 2.35 or go with 125 2.35 and have bars for 16:9?



That depends on the content you want to watch most. If it’s movies - you’ll get a much more cinematic experience with 2.35. 16:9 is more versatile for TV and gaming. I think if I had the choice again...I’d go 2.35 and deal with the black bars on the left/right for 16:9 content. The lens memory on the 5050:6060 is a super feature. 

For myself - I got rid of my cheap 120inch screen and went down to better quality 110inch and it works great. 

(And now...I’m thinking of making a porthole in the back of my room and projecting through that but that’s a noise/heat issue rather than screen size. ) 

Do you have a screen already?? If you do...I’d just get the projector. Put the projector against your back wall and see. You’ll be very close regardless. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jorisdriesen

skylarlove1999 said:


> Sorry you are having such a frustrating go of it. I know you are using the correct USB port and updating procedure. You have tried two USB sticks . Maybe try ordering the cheapest USB stick you can find. If you were here in the States I would mail you my USB stick.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Projector has to be brought in tomorrow for a repair on a panel, I'll ask them to upload the new firmware as well.


----------



## rollon1980

skylarlove1999 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, here are my settings I use when I need extreme light output! Try it with movies but especially games and TV shows.
> 
> It is not super duper accurate (I have Digital Cinema for that), but I prefer to use this setting for most content unless itâ€™️s super dark sci fi. I minimised the errors at IREs where itâ€™️s most noticeable. Love love this setting for Xbox games.
> 
> I have 700hrs on my lamp!
> 
> Let me know how it works for you!
> 
> â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”â€”
> 
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 48
> Offset G: 48
> Offset B: 48
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 40
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 0:0:0
> 6 0:0:0
> 5 0:0:0
> 4 -5:0:-5
> 3 -5:0:-7
> 2 -3:0:-7
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: -1
> RGBCMY:
> R: 50:50:48
> G: 50:82:23
> B:54:53:43
> ðŸ˜„ 57:56:13
> M: 53:57:33
> Y: 52:57:25
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp also works! (I use medium lamp for Netflix shows and raise the HDR slider a bit)
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for posting this. Would you happen to have your Digital Cinema settings after the firmware update? I prefer the color spectrum using the filter. Thanks in advance bestie
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Nope and I just realise that both need re-calibration. I thought they would be off a little bit watching Passengers and the above is no longer looking even the remotely accurate it used to be. I’ll re-post once I’ve re-done them. Apologies. 🙂


----------



## DaGamePimp

*Please keep in mind this is for my calibrated 5050ub in my room... a setting of 41 corrects the raised black issue for me.* 


I am still testing many things on this new firmware but it appears that the black floor lift happens between 41-42 (Brightness) in Digital Cinema regarding source material with elevated blacks.

While the fan noise in high lamp has improved I still prefer as little noise as possible (right above my head) so I set out to maintain as much of a dynamic image as possible from Digital Cinema while on Medium lamp.

I find that my above setting of 41 for brightness while using 3 (on the HDR slider) in Medium Lamp/Digital Cinema still allows for a nice controlled yet punchy image while keeping the fan noise down. 

I am not measuring/tracking EOTF but I leave the Gamma setting at -2 (for SDR) since it tracks pretty close to 2.4 (if that's too dark for your room then set it to -1).

* This is via a Panasonic 820 with the Optimizer turned off and HDR TV Type set to Basic/Projector.

Just sat down to watch some actual content with these settings and WHOA... making progress, this is the best I have ever seen my 5050ub look, just stunning! 

- Jason


----------



## HAMMo7

skylarlove1999 said:


> This new tone mapping is incredible. Plus whatever they did to make the image appear sharper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


What type of screen are you using. picture looks amazing and I imagine it looks better in person than in photos


----------



## HAMMo7

Manu9 said:


> Sadly I cannot, there aren't any here so I'm having it shipped from a different country. I don't mind going down to 120 or even 115 but the problem is I'm also limited with screens as I'll be ordering both from Amazon - if there's another place I'd be willing to try, but keep in mind returning is a big hassle as I'm in the Middle East.
> 
> 
> Also for watching would a 125 2.35 give me a good image for 16:9 when I need that? I guess my question is would it be better to go with 120 16:9 and have bars for 2.35 or go with 125 2.35 and have bars for 16:9?[/QUOTE
> 
> I have the same dilemma, go with 16:9 or 2.35... I watched 50/50 sports/tv and movies... so melting my brain.. dunno which be better with the 5050/6050...


----------



## skylarlove1999

Manu9 said:


> Sadly I cannot, there aren't any here so I'm having it shipped from a different country. I don't mind going down to 120 or even 115 but the problem is I'm also limited with screens as I'll be ordering both from Amazon - if there's another place I'd be willing to try, but keep in mind returning is a big hassle as I'm in the Middle East.
> 
> 
> Also for watching would a 125 2.35 give me a good image for 16:9 when I need that? I guess my question is would it be better to go with 120 16:9 and have bars for 2.35 or go with 125 2.35 and have bars for 16:9?


Really depends on which format you will be watching more content. Also depends on if your room is more width constrained or height constrained. Many people are limiting the size of their scope content when purchasing a 16x9 screen due to the limiting effect of their ceiling height, whereas they could use a wider screen if they chose a scope ratio screen. It comes down to your room dimensions and viewing preferences. Personally I would go with a scope screen. I am currently switching to 2:39 140 inch from 16x9 120 inch, for the reasons mentioned above. My 16x9 viewing height will be decreased by about 5 inches but my scope ratio height will increase by 10 inches and width will increase by 25 inches. Currently the diagonal for scope ratio viewing on my 16x9 is 113 inches, using the 120 inch 16x9 screen. I can fit a 150 inch 2:39 screen given my room dimensions but that felt a little too big for my eyes, believe it or not. So I went with 140 inch 2:39 screen which provides a viewing image of 54 inches high and 129.5 inches wide. Going to be amazing. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

rollon1980 said:


> Nope and I just realise that both need re-calibration. I thought they would be off a little bit watching Passengers and the above is no longer looking even the remotely accurate it used to be. I’ll re-post once I’ve re-done them. Apologies. 🙂


No need to apologize thanks for testing things out and taking your valuable time to share with the community. It is greatly appreciated.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

HAMMo7 said:


> What type of screen are you using. picture looks amazing and I imagine it looks better in person than in photos


It does look much better in person. As followers of this thread know by now I am notorious for taking horrible pictures. I am using a Seymour Glacier White 120 inch 16x9 screen currently with custom masking panels to hide the scope bars . The masking makes a huge perceptual difference for contrast. I am switching to a 140 inch 2:39 screen since I determined I watch way more movies than anything else. PM me if you are interested in my only 2 year old screen. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

Where can I find the firmware update for the U.S version of the 5050? I cant seem to locate it on the epson website


----------



## Manu9

GIbryl said:


> That depends on the content you want to watch most. If it’s movies - you’ll get a much more cinematic experience with 2.35. 16:9 is more versatile for TV and gaming. I think if I had the choice again...I’d go 2.35 and deal with the black bars on the left/right for 16:9 content. The lens memory on the 5050:6060 is a super feature.
> 
> For myself - I got rid of my cheap 120inch screen and went down to better quality 110inch and it works great.
> 
> (And now...I’m thinking of making a porthole in the back of my room and projecting through that but that’s a noise/heat issue rather than screen size. )
> 
> Do you have a screen already?? If you do...I’d just get the projector. Put the projector against your back wall and see. You’ll be very close regardless.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'm thinking the same too. 

I don't have a screen sadly, was eyeing the Silver Ticket 2.35:1 grey material 125 inches one (in case I can project from farther in the future instead of going small and getting stuck to that size).

EDIT: I've been thinking, going with a 135 16:9 will give roughly the same width of a 2.35 125, is there any disadvantage to doing that instead? so a bigger 16:9 but the same 2.35 on the wall at the end of day? or am I missing something?


----------



## biglen

Manu9 said:


> Sadly I cannot, there aren't any here so I'm having it shipped from a different country. I don't mind going down to 120 or even 115 but the problem is I'm also limited with screens as I'll be ordering both from Amazon - if there's another place I'd be willing to try, but keep in mind returning is a big hassle as I'm in the Middle East.
> 
> 
> Also for watching would a 125 2.35 give me a good image for 16:9 when I need that? I guess my question is would it be better to go with 120 16:9 and have bars for 2.35 or go with 125 2.35 and have bars for 16:9?


Would you be able to do a painted screen on the wall? Then you wouldn't have to deal with black bars with either ratio. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> I can make at out a little black snakes in a stream. Lamp med ,hdr5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Are they really dark, or can you clearly see them? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

GIbryl said:


> That depends on the content you want to watch most. If it’s movies - you’ll get a much more cinematic experience with 2.35. 16:9 is more versatile for TV and gaming. I think if I had the choice again...I’d go 2.35 and deal with the black bars on the left/right for 16:9 content. The lens memory on the 5050:6060 is a super feature.
> 
> For myself - I got rid of my cheap 120inch screen and went down to better quality 110inch and it works great.
> 
> (And now...I’m thinking of making a porthole in the back of my room and projecting through that but that’s a noise/heat issue rather than screen size. )
> 
> Do you have a screen already?? If you do...I’d just get the projector. Put the projector against your back wall and see. You’ll be very close regardless.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I built a port hole in my back wall to give my projector a longer throw, so I'd have a larger image. The noise is no more than if it was mounted on the ceiling. As far as heat issues, I installed a cooling system, that never lets the projector go over 80°.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Manu9

biglen said:


> Would you be able to do a painted screen on the wall? Then you wouldn't have to deal with black bars with either ratio.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 Actually that could be a possibility, is it just buy the special paint and paint the wall and you're done?
And does it give the same quality a screen would give?


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> *Please keep in mind this is for my calibrated 5050ub in my room... a setting of 41 corrects the raised black issue for me.* /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> 
> I am still testing many things on this new firmware but it appears that the black floor lift happens between 41-42 (Brightness) in Digital Cinema regarding source material with elevated blacks.
> 
> While the fan noise in high lamp has improved I still prefer as little noise as possible (right above my head) so I set out to maintain as much of a dynamic image as possible from Digital Cinema while on Medium lamp.
> 
> I find that my above setting of 41 for brightness while using 3 (on the HDR slider) in Medium Lamp/Digital Cinema still allows for a nice controlled yet punchy image while keeping the fan noise down.
> 
> I am not measuring/tracking EOTF but I leave the Gamma setting at -2 (for SDR) since it tracks pretty close to 2.4 (if that's too dark for your room then set it to -1).
> 
> * This is via a Panasonic 820 with the Optimizer turned off and HDR TV Type set to Basic/Projector.
> 
> Just sat down to watch some actual content with these settings and WHOA... making progress, this is the best I have ever seen my 5050ub look, just stunning! /forum/images/smilies/eek.gif
> 
> - Jason


41-42 is very low. It would crush the hell out of my blacks. Wow! 😮 do you have the offsets above 50 on your greyscale by any chance?


----------



## biglen

Manu9 said:


> Actually that could be a possibility, is it just buy the special paint and paint the wall and you're done?
> And does it give the same quality a screen would give?


I've never seen the image of a 5050 on a typical screen in person, but I do know the image on my painted screen, is stunning. Check out my DIY screen thread for pics, and more info on painting the wall. 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Just watched After Earth 1080P but it’s mastered in 4K with HDR colour gamut.

Switched from the Panasonic UB420 to the Sony X700 simply because with a non 4K Bluray the Sony+Epson Image Enhancement does a better job. Anyway after tweaking about with the HDR slider I settled on #7 , not that it give better colours which is doesn’t because the lower the figure the more vibrant they become, no the reason I choose 7 was the shadow detail seemed best.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Manu9 said:


> Actually that could be a possibility, is it just buy the special paint and paint the wall and you're done?
> And does it give the same quality a screen would give?[/quote @biglen image quality is pristine. He definitely has the image quality of a reference screen. Now Len is a painter by trade so he did an amazing job but with some help from him and some others I'm sure you could do the same great job you really want to spray and you need to start with a really clean surface no bumps marks or anything else because that will detract from the image quality
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> 41-42 is very low. It would crush the hell out of my blacks. Wow! 😮 do you have the offsets above 50 on your greyscale by any chance?


Nope, and no black crush. I honestly expected crush and doubted what I was seeing so I checked it out on the PC in HDR using various patterns and it's fantastic.

I feel like I bought a new projector, I'm floored. 

I don't know exactly what Epson did here but this is really impressive.

Maybe I just got lucky with a combination of factors/settings on my particular unit but what I can say is that I am leaving it where it's at, not about to let the genie out of the bottle. 

- Jason


----------



## GIbryl

biglen said:


> I built a port hole in my back wall to give my projector a longer throw, so I'd have a larger image. The noise is no more than if it was mounted on the ceiling. As far as heat issues, I installed a cooling system, that never lets the projector go over 80°.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



That gorgeous. I can’t see from the pic. Is that glass or is it open? I’m planning a slight offering approach. 
Just going to leave the projector on a shelf outdid the room and make a port hole just big enough for the iris. That way I won’t have to worry about heat dissipation, glass or any additional fans. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

GIbryl said:


> That gorgeous. I can’t see from the pic. Is that glass or is it open? I’m planning a slight offering approach.
> Just going to leave the projector on a shelf outdid the room and make a port hole just big enough for the iris. That way I won’t have to worry about heat dissipation, glass or any additional fans.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks! It's just open. I looked into glass, but you need a special glass that doesn't distort the image, and it's very expensive. I had a digital thermometer in the box, and it would get close to 100° in the there, so that's why I installed the cooling system. If you close the front, it will get really hot in there. I'd recommend leaving it open. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

To summarize:

Pre 1.03FW:
Set the Panasonic to the appropriate display type (OLED or projector based on model).
Set the Panasonic HDR Optimizer to "On" which lets the player perform the tone mapping.

Post 1.03FW:
Set the Panasonic to the appropriate display type (OLED or projector based on model).
Set the Panasonic HDR Optimizer to "Off" and adjust the level of HDR preference on the Epson 5050/6050.


Did I capture this correctly?

And Jason, thank you for taking the time to perform measurements of what you're seeing! Please keep the updates coming.


----------



## Manu9

biglen said:


> Thanks! It's just open. I looked into glass, but you need a special glass that doesn't distort the image, and it's very expensive. I had a digital thermometer in the box, and it would get close to 100° in the there, so that's why I installed the cooling system. If you close the front, it will get really hot in there. I'd recommend leaving it open.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



That looked amazing! Thank you so much.







plain fan said:


> To summarize:
> 
> Pre 1.03FW:
> Set the Panasonic to the appropriate display type (OLED or projector based on model).
> Set the Panasonic HDR Optimizer to "On" which lets the player perform the tone mapping.
> 
> Post 1.03FW:
> Set the Panasonic to the appropriate display type (OLED or projector based on model).
> Set the Panasonic HDR Optimizer to "Off" and adjust the level of HDR preference on the Epson 5050/6050.
> 
> 
> Did I capture this correctly?
> 
> And Jason, thank you for taking the time to perform measurements of what you're seeing! Please keep the updates coming.



Wait, does that mean can get like the Sony x700 and get the same image now? Since the 820 is almost $500 and the Sony is less than $200.


----------



## biglen

Manu9 said:


> That looked amazing! Thank you so much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, does that mean can get like the Sony x700 and get the same image now? Since the 820 is almost $500 and the Sony is less than $200.


Just get the Panasonic 420. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## aoaaron

hey guys. my black bars are dark grey not black. anyway or settings to improve it? I'm using an ALR draper react screen but my room TBH is not treated at all. White walls, white ceiling. 

am I just at the limit until I get some room treatment?


----------



## Manu9

biglen said:


> Just get the Panasonic 420.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Sadly being overseas most suppliers don't deliver to where I am, but Amazon does, and it doesn't have the 420 atm, I might just wait for it, in no rush really, the projector itself is still not shipped.


----------



## hungarianhc

Hi All, I'm excited to join the club! I just got the order placed for a 5050UB and SI Black Diamond screen.

Question: What is the ethernet port for? I'm slightly annoyed that the firmware update has to be done via USB.


----------



## Luminated67

Need to do the whole testing back and forth between the UB420 and x700 on 4K to see which is now best since everyone feels the Epson is best at handling HDR. One thing the Panasonic has over the Sony is more adjustability on HDR and picture than the Sony which is very basic, but then again basic is perfectly fine if it’s spot on to begin with.


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> Are they really dark, or can you clearly see them?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes I can really see the electric ells swimming and some kind of black stream. It was very hard to catch the pause because seen is so short. I wish I had iPhone as is much more representative of the actual contrasts. In that shot you should be able to make out the teeth and eyeballs of the creature. The shadow detail was good before the firmer update but now the black level has improved too.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> Yes I can really see the electric ells swimming and some kind of black stream. It was very hard to catch the pause because seen is so short. I wish I had iPhone as is much more representative of the actual contrasts. In that shot you should be able to make out the teeth and eyeballs of the creature. The shadow detail was good before the firmer update but now the black level has improved too.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I can definitely see the teeth and eyeballs. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

hungarianhc said:


> Hi All, I'm excited to join the club! I just got the order placed for a 5050UB and SI Black Diamond screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Question: What is the ethernet port for? I'm slightly annoyed that the firmware update has to be done via USB.


 The LAN port is only good for connecting to a wired network and projecting static images or presentations, i.e. work presentations, lectures, etc. Cannot be used for firmware updates and Epson doesn't recommend using the LAN port for streaming. Unfortunately many companies still think that internet connections are unstable and do not wish to turn your projector into a very expensive paper weight if the update fails if the connection is terminated during the update. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## tk123

skylarlove1999 said:


> Welcome to the club. The LAN port is only good for connecting to a wired network and projecting static images or presentations, i.e. work presentations, lectures, etc. Cannot be used for firmware updates and Epson doesn't recommend using the LAN port for streaming. Unfortunately many companies still think that internet connections are unstable and do not wish to turn your projector into a very expensive paper weight if the update fails if the connection is terminated during the update.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 Please excuse my noobness here, but I'm considering a projector setup in our basement. I was under the impression that most people ran CAT6 cables to all equipment locations in order to network everything together. 
In my limited searching for projectors, I've even discounted some without a Lan port. 
I'm not very knowledgeable about networking or projectors, so what is the big deal about connecting everything with a Lan connection ?
Thanks


----------



## skylarlove1999

tk123 said:


> Please excuse my noobness here, but I'm considering a projector setup in our basement. I was under the impression that most people ran CAT6 cables to all equipment locations in order to network everything together.
> 
> In my limited searching for projectors, I've even discounted some without a Lan port.
> 
> I'm not very knowledgeable about networking or projectors, so what is the big deal about connecting everything with a Lan connection ?
> 
> Thanks


 Most projectors don't have any speakers that there is that is the first issue if you would connect your source device directly to the projector you would have video with no sound. The second issue is the LAN port on this projector and most projectors are not optimally designed to receive a streaming signal that way. 

Most projectors are designed for use with an AVR. You connect your source devices through the AVR. The AVR processes the sound and sends it out to your speakers. The AVR passes the video signal onto your projector via an HDMI cable to display the image. You could and should hardwire your internet connection to your streaming source devices for the best streaming playback quality. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Manu9

Sorry guys one more question, I think I'll be going with a screen for now instead of paint, if I get a 135 Screen but fill about 110-120 would that be worse than getting a 120 screen? since I will be able to use the full 135 in less than two years and if there's no disadvantage there's no reason to go smaller and buy another later.
My options atm are:
Elite StableFrame CineGrey 3D
Elite Aeon CineGray 3D ALR
Silver Ticket Gray


Would really appreciate input on both the Screen, and the screen size question above from people who have the Epson 5050UB, but if this is not the place just let me know where should I post and I will do that


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> Nope, and no black crush. I honestly expected crush and doubted what I was seeing so I checked it out on the PC in HDR using various patterns and it's fantastic.
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I bought a new projector, I'm floored.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know exactly what Epson did here but this is really impressive.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I just got lucky with a combination of factors/settings on my particular unit but what I can say is that I am leaving it where it's at, not about to let the genie out of the bottle.
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


So happy you posted this. I have always found it's better to live with a unit and learn all its quirks before making an assessment. I'm not so sure I agree with settings on the panny but because of your statements on black crush I will revisit this. I am more in the camp that I don't need a player to do anything for me now but just play the the movie.
For the last 3 days I just force myself to stream and very excited with results. I used to have an nx7 envy now I have envy for 6050 owners.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## tk123

skylarlove1999 said:


> Most projectors don't have any speakers that there is that is the first issue if you would connect your source device directly to the projector you would have video with no sound. The second issue is the LAN port on this projector and most projectors are not optimally designed to receive a streaming signal that way.
> 
> Most projectors are designed for use with an AVR. You connect your source devices through the AVR. The AVR processes the sound and sends it out to your speakers. The AVR passes the video signal onto your projector via an HDMI cable to display the image. You could and should hardwire your internet connection to your streaming source devices for the best streaming playback quality.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


 I think I understand this. 

So, I should run CAT6 from router to Roku, Shield, etc then HDMI from them to receiver then HDMI from receiver to projector. Correct ?


----------



## skylarlove1999

tk123 said:


> I think I understand this.
> 
> 
> 
> So, I should run CAT6 from router to Roku, Shield, etc then HDMI from them to receiver then HDMI from receiver to projector. Correct ?


Absolutely correct. Depending upon how long your run from AVR to projector you may need a Fiber optic HDMI cable. Really any run over 20 ft should be fiber optic HDMI cable to your display. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> Need to do the whole testing back and forth between the UB420 and x700 on 4K to see which is now best since everyone feels the Epson is best at handling HDR. One thing the Panasonic has over the Sony is more adjustability on HDR and picture than the Sony which is very basic, but then again basic is perfectly fine if it’s spot on to begin with.


I still feel the Epson up scales better than the panny. And your a pics are proof of that. And it's something about a pure 1080P signal that is just intriguing. Why add something when you don't have to. Especially when the epson does such a good job of making it even better..

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## smile

As a rule, should the AVR feeding the 5050ub apply Video Scaling*, or does this duplicate or conflict with the pj functions?
I have an Anthem MX310, if that matters.
Thx

* deinterlaced and scaled to highest resolution supported by pj.


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 41-42 is very low. It would crush the hell out of my blacks. Wow! 😮 do you have the offsets above 50 on your greyscale by any chance?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, and no black crush. I honestly expected crush and doubted what I was seeing so I checked it out on the PC in HDR using various patterns and it's fantastic.
> 
> I feel like I bought a new projector, I'm floored.
> 
> I don't know exactly what Epson did here but this is really impressive.
> 
> Maybe I just got lucky with a combination of factors/settings on my particular unit but what I can say is that I am leaving it where it's at, not about to let the genie out of the bottle. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

I keep forgetting you’re using a PC. PC video levels are different. Now it makes sense. All good. 🙂


----------



## rollon1980

Feedback for Epson on firmware 1.03.

We said all the stuff we love about this firmware so here is some stuff that’s still lacking if I may! 

1. 10,000 nit tone map is still crappy. I’m sorry but putting in Alita for example, I need to raise the slider to double what I do for 4000nit movies and the tone map is still not perceptually matched to my OLED. It looks drab and without punch. (Compared to 1000 and 4000nit tome maps). This is on a 130” CinemaScope. 
2. Black floor compensation is not done. You have aligned the SDR and HDR gamuts better now so one could ALMOST use the same picture mode for HDR and SDR. But to get the best performance out of the unit, one still has to use a different picture mode. This is because HDR movies are not mastered to 0nits (or very few are) and some movies decide to elevate black level (even if mastered to a certain nit value) to emulate a certain look. Unfortunately, they look correct on a mastering display or an OLED but will look perceptually incorrect on a display that cannot do absolute black. You need to re-think near-black mapping a bit. Think new Star Wars movies! 
3. No change log. Come on! 😉 
4. Something is going on with the gamma in bright cinema?
5. The Auto iris is more aggressive. Lovely! But when using Dynamic high lamp, it cuts material with star fields, initial titles, etc. it is also a bit worse in other picture modes, especially beginning of movies. I would NOT modulate both the iris and the lamp immediately but only modulate the lamp DOWN after a delay. Of course modulating the lamp UP might need to be instant. (Stop skipping the title screens and beginning of movies during testing maybe? 😉 )

—————————
Some options:
- map everything the same upto 150nits and then use different tone maps from there up. This would stop us having to play with the HDR slider so much. 
- Dynamic Tone Mapping might help with the above and the elevated black floor in HDR but I would like to see a separate brightness control for HDR in the meantime at the very least under all picture controls.
- Alternatively, put the following controls under the HDR slider:
- Black Floor Compensation (relative brightness slider to modulate what the main brightness control is doing)
- OR even more elegant: actually give us the nit value you are reading from meta-data and give us the choice to force a nit value setting! E.g: 0.05 nit. This will only work if near-black mapping is also updated a bit. 
- Force tone map: 1100nits, 4000nits, 10, 000 nits so we can force whichever we want for ALL material (no more playing with slider)

Otherwise well done. We’re getting there. 🙂


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> I keep forgetting you’re using a PC. PC video levels are different. Now it makes sense. All good. 🙂


Nope, this was from a TPG and using a Panasonic 820, I just verified and checked various patterns from the PC (via both RGB and ycbcr, limited and full). 

* I did however notice that my 5050UB had elevated black on it's own while doing post 1.03 calibration (meaning take the lifted BL source material out of the equation).

- Post 1.03... 10, 20 IRE both had elevated levels (in Digital Cinema) after a reset of all adjustments and this is using a TPG (not a UHD player or PC).

Obviously all of our units are going to behave a bit different, especially when you add calibration to the mix.

- Jason


----------



## DaGamePimp

Luminated67 said:


> Need to do the whole testing back and forth between the UB420 and x700 on 4K to see which is now best since everyone feels the Epson is best at handling HDR. One thing the Panasonic has over the Sony is more adjustability on HDR and picture than the Sony which is very basic, but then again basic is perfectly fine if it’s spot on to begin with.


I have the Sony x800, Sony x700, Samsung m9500 and the Panasonic 820. The 820 is still the best IMHO due to the additional "HDR TV Type" option (in this case set to Basic/PJ) , the Sony players set to "Projector" do not match the Panasonic.

Just my opinion of course (using the 820), YMMV. 

- Jason


----------



## HTX^2steve

Is there a link for the 1.03 firmware? Seems like a worthy update...minus the lens memory craziness.


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I keep forgetting youâ€™️re using a PC. PC video levels are different. Now it makes sense. All good. 🙂
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, this was from a TPG and using a Panasonic 820, I just verified and checked various patterns from the PC (via both RGB and ycbcr, limited and full). /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> * I did however notice that my 5050UB had elevated black on it's own while doing post 1.03 calibration (meaning take the lifted BL source material out of the equation).
> 
> - Post 1.03... 10, 20 IRE both had elevated levels (in Digital Cinema) after a reset of all adjustments and this is using a TPG (not a UHD player or PC).
> 
> Obviously all of our units are going to behave a bit different, especially when you add calibration to the mix.
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

Ah, your video level settings might default to 16-256 when on auto, it happens to my android player sometimes too. Super annoying for me so I set it to 16-256. That won’t work for you however, as PC needs expanded (0-256) and if you’re switching between PC and the other players, auto is best.


----------



## rollon1980

Manu9 said:


> Sorry guys one more question, I think I'll be going with a screen for now instead of paint, if I get a 135 Screen but fill about 110-120 would that be worse than getting a 120 screen? since I will be able to use the full 135 in less than two years and if there's no disadvantage there's no reason to go smaller and buy another later.
> My options atm are:
> Elite StableFrame CineGrey 3D
> Elite Aeon CineGray 3D ALR
> Silver Ticket Gray
> 
> 
> Would really appreciate input on both the Screen, and the screen size question above from people who have the Epson 5050UB, but if this is not the place just let me know where should I post and I will do that /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


I have used the Pulsar 1.2 from Dark Energy
Seen the CineGrey 5D and 3D.

I ordered the CineGrey 3D in a custom CinemaScope 130” after I painted a screen on the wall and lived with it for a while to be sure it was the right size. If you are unsure, I would do the same! I basically marked the screen out and painted the rest of the wall matte black! Lived with it then I ordered. 

The upside is that now I have masking for stray light using the black paint. Side masking isn’t as important.

I ordered CineGrey 3D because the texture on the other two screens were a bit too much. The CineGrey 3D looked the best to my eyes. Aeon edgeless frame as it looks more futuristic / like a flat panel. 😉


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need to do the whole testing back and forth between the UB420 and x700 on 4K to see which is now best since everyone feels the Epson is best at handling HDR. One thing the Panasonic has over the Sony is more adjustability on HDR and picture than the Sony which is very basic, but then again basic is perfectly fine if itâ€™️s spot on to begin with.
> 
> 
> 
> I still feel the Epson up scales better than the panny. And your a pics are proof of that. And it's something about a pure 1080P signal that is just intriguing. Why add something when you don't have to. Especially when the epson does such a good job of making it even better..
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Panasonic has great chroma up scaling but it is getting used even when outputting 1080p so that’s good! 

I have tried both upscaling options with previous firmware and I understand why you prefer the Epson upscaling. It is incredibly good. The only issue is my Panasonic does not have source direct so you have to keep switching resolution between 1080p and 4K. Annoying so it’s on 4K. 

I’ll have to revisit with this firmware. I do have 3 Panasonic players for 3 rooms so might just repurpose one of them. 😛


----------



## hungarianhc

skylarlove1999 said:


> Unfortunately many companies still think that internet connections are unstable and do not wish to turn your projector into a very expensive paper weight if the update fails if the connection is terminated during the update.


Eh I mean that paperweight logic is a bit flawed... USB update transfers firmware to projector, then validates, then upgrades. Internet upgrade would be the same. Download firmware, validate, upgrade.


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> DaGamePimp said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, and no black crush. I honestly expected crush and doubted what I was seeing so I checked it out on the PC in HDR using various patterns and it's fantastic.
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I bought a new projector, I'm floored.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know exactly what Epson did here but this is really impressive.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I just got lucky with a combination of factors/settings on my particular unit but what I can say is that I am leaving it where it's at, not about to let the genie out of the bottle. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason
> 
> 
> 
> So happy you posted this. I have always found it's better to live with a unit and learn all its quirks before making an assessment. I'm not so sure I agree with settings on the panny but because of your statements on black crush I will revisit this. I am more in the camp that I don't need a player to do anything for me now but just play the the movie.
> For the last 3 days I just force myself to stream and very excited with results. I used to have an nx7 envy now I have envy for 6050 owners.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Don’t envy us 6050 owners. You got 99% of the performance for a much better price. There is very negligible difference between the two units. The contrast difference would be difficult to spot even having the units side by side. There’s a YouTube video comparing the two side by side with a Black Diamond Screen. They THOUGHT they saw more contrast and a bit more sharpness but they accidentally bumped the table during the review so it was NULL. They had to go back and forth like 20 times to detect any difference. 

So... yeah, very little difference. Just be happy! 😉


----------



## skylarlove1999

hungarianhc said:


> Eh I mean that paperweight logic is a bit flawed... USB update transfers firmware to projector, then validates, then upgrades. Internet upgrade would be the same. Download firmware, validate, upgrade.



You can read about your screens performance in this report, pages 16 and 17. Maybe you still have time to cancel your screen. There are much less expensive options that have the same level of performance. 

https://www.accucalav.com/accucal_front_projection_screen_report/


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> Ah, your video level settings might default to 16-256 when on auto, it happens to my android player sometimes too. Super annoying for me so I set it to 16-256. That won’t work for you however, as PC needs expanded (0-256) and if you’re switching between PC and the other players, auto is best.


This back and forth has grown suspect, I can't figure out what your intentions are here, do you presume that I do not know what I am doing because it sure reads that way. 

I respect your experience/input (thank you) but you seem to suggest I am constantly wrong or that I must be doing something wrong unless I agree with you (or come to the same conclusion). 

How about if we both just share our findings from this point, at the end of the day I'm sure we are both just trying to help others. 

Please let us move on for the sake of the thread.

- Jason


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, your video level settings might default to 16-256 when on auto, it happens to my android player sometimes too. Super annoying for me so I set it to 16-256. That wonâ€™️t work for you however, as PC needs expanded (0-256) and if youâ€™️re switching between PC and the other players, auto is best.
> 
> 
> 
> This back and forth has grown suspect, I can't figure out what your intentions are here, do you presume that I do not know what I am doing because it sure reads that way. /forum/images/smilies/confused.gif
> 
> I respect your experience/input (thank you) but you seem to suggest I am constantly wrong or that I must be doing something wrong unless I agree with you (or come to the same conclusion). /forum/images/smilies/confused.gif
> 
> How about if we both just share our findings from this point, at the end of the day I'm sure we are both just trying to help others. /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
> 
> Please let us move on for the sake of the thread.
> /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> - Jason
Click to expand...

I’m sorry, Jason. I wasn’t trying to suggest you are wrong. I guess I’m always trying to figure out WHY something happens. It’s just curiosity. Also, maybe I want to know the answer as it makes me feel happy we figured it out. Haha 

I apologise to have annoyed you with it, again, wasn’t my intention. I’ve stopped! 🙂


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> I still feel the Epson up scales better than the panny. And your a pics are proof of that. And it's something about a pure 1080P signal that is just intriguing. Why add something when you don't have to. Especially when the epson does such a good job of making it even better..
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Are you using 4k Enhancement with 1080p material?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> Are you using 4k Enhancement with 1080p material?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes I do. I haven't had a chance to re explore this since the update. I emagine that if I liked it before it should have a profound difference now. Just want let you know I really like what you did with the mounting of your projector. It's all in the details!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> Yes I do. I haven't had a chance to re explore this since the update. I emagine that if I liked it before it should have a profound difference now. Just want let you know I really like what you did with the mounting of your projector. It's all in the details!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thank you, I appreciate the compliment !

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nick Woolley

Just picked up the 6050UB for my dedicated room, must admit, very disappointed with the PQ. Blacks aren't what was promised in reviews, shadow details are really poor, contrast seems substandard and clarity of picture really lacking.


----------



## covsound1

Nick Woolley said:


> Just picked up the 6050UB for my dedicated room, must admit, very disappointed with the PQ. Blacks aren't what was promised in reviews, shadow details are really poor, contrast seems substandard and clarity of picture really lacking.


May i asked what you had before the epson.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nick Woolley

covsound1 said:


> May i asked what you had before the epson.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Nothing, came from 65" TV. Sony Z9D


----------



## covsound1

Nick Woolley said:


> Nothing, came from 65" TV. Sony Z9D


Oh nice tv. One of my good friends has the 75 inch version. When ever he stops by he never warms up to my projector set up. Must admit that TV has some of the best hdr high lights I have seen on a TV. This is a different kettle of fish . I have an oled I talked my friend into getting one. Same thing he never warmed up to the oled and told me nothing like a Zeta. This makes me wonder if I am missing something. Best advice run it and make all the adjustments you can before your return window. Something with more light power may be more of your cup of tea but you would need a screen that can counter black level. Really hope this works out for you. Welcome to the 6050 club.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

I just watched some scenes from The Martian on my Panasonic 420. I always let the 420 handle the tone mapping, but since everyone said how great the 5050 is now after the update, I switched the 420 to let the 5050 handle the tone mapping. I still think the 420 tone mapping looks better. The only thing I did on the 420, was switch from SDR/2020, to HDR/2020. Is that all you guys are doing, or are there other settings I need to play with?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## mauro145

hungarianhc said:


> Hi All, I'm excited to join the club! I just got the order placed for a 5050UB and SI Black Diamond screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Question: What is the ethernet port for? I'm slightly annoyed that the firmware update has to be done via USB.


There is an app called EPSON Projector Management which apparently lets you update the firmware, I haven't try it. Maybe with this model particular model it doesn't work. Also try iprojection, another app which can be use to stream your phone screen to the projector.

Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

DaGamePimp said:


> I have the Sony x800, Sony x700, Samsung m9500 and the Panasonic 820. The 820 is still the best IMHO due to the additional "HDR TV Type" option (in this case set to Basic/PJ) , the Sony players set to "Projector" do not match the Panasonic.
> 
> Just my opinion of course (using the 820), YMMV.
> 
> - Jason


One issue I have with the Panasonic is with non 4K material in the Auto mode it looks at the display’s resolution (Epson) and automatically upscales to 4K unless you go into the menu and force it to display at 1080P, why I hear you say would I want to do that, well in my opinion when the Panasonic upscales it adds a Mosquito effect to the image that isn’t present with the Sony+Epson upscaling.


----------



## Fox1966

biglen said:


> I just watched some scenes from The Martian on my Panasonic 420. I always let the 420 handle the tone mapping, but since everyone said how great the 5050 is now after the update, I switched the 420 to let the 5050 handle the tone mapping. I still think the 420 tone mapping looks better. The only thing I did on the 420, was switch from SDR/2020, to HDR/2020. Is that all you guys are doing, or are there other settings I need to play with?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Biglen, be sure you turn the HDR Optimizer to "Off." I also get the best results when I choose the output for the player to be the middle range LCD. I've tried all the other options, and with the new update and this setting, my 5050 puts out an HDR image that comes closer to rivaling my OLED than I ever thought possible. I spent hours and hours yesterday looking at different 4k discs and rewatching parts of movies. The HDR image now is simply amazing! Unfortunately, the side effect is that last night I ordered a bunch more 4k HDR discs 

To anyone that has just bought this projector, or thinking about buying it....you are not going to truly know what you have until you update to 1.03 firmware...


----------



## Psylocke

i just installed the Firmware 1.03 last night. took 6 tries and 4 different USB drives to finally get it to work. What are the updated suggested changes when using an AppleTV and Panny UB9000?


----------



## mon2479

So how can I get the new firmware update on my U.S model? And install it


----------



## HTX^2steve

I guess I will answer my own question...HERE is the link for the v1.03 firmware...Thanks Steve!

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## skylarlove1999

HTX^2steve said:


> I guess I will answer my own question...HERE is the link for the v1.03 firmware...Thanks Steve!
> 
> 
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


LOL. Thanks Steve

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Hawkmarket said:


> I checked in with Mike at AVS about the new Denon receiver doing tone mapping and his impression is the new Denon WILL do DTM. He said it his impression that the catch is that the source device has to be HDMI 2.1. Something to keep our eye on.


Please see the email reply I received from Paul Wilkie head of PR for Sound United who owns Denon. 

To answer your question, Denon and Marantz AVRs are just HDMI repeaters which will pass the dynamic HDR metadata (HDR10+, Dolby Vision or the new HDMI 2.1 version) from the source device to a compatible display. Ultimately, it is the display’s responsibility to take the dynamic metadata that the D&M AVR passed along and dynamically tone map content to fit display’s capabilities.

Paul is a friend. He would be the definitive source for all things Denon. The DTM is not onboard processing it just passes the DTM info to the display. If the display has DTM capability then it will use that information to dynamically tone map the content to match the display's capabilities. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

skylarlove1999 said:


> Please see the email reply I received from Paul Wilkie head of PR for Sound United who owns Denon.
> 
> To answer your question, Denon and Marantz AVRs are just HDMI repeaters which will pass the dynamic HDR metadata (HDR10+, Dolby Vision or the new HDMI 2.1 version) from the source device to a compatible display. Ultimately, it is the display’s responsibility to take the dynamic metadata that the D&M AVR passed along and dynamically tone map content to fit display’s capabilities.
> 
> Paul is a friend. He would be the definitive source for all things Denon. The DTM is not onboard processing it just passes the DTM info to the display. If the display has DTM capability then it will use that information to dynamically tone map the content to match the display's capabilities.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Makes perfect sense and thanks for checking into that.


----------



## biglen

Fox1966 said:


> Biglen, be sure you turn the HDR Optimizer to "Off." I also get the best results when I choose the output for the player to be the middle range LCD. I've tried all the other options, and with the new update and this setting, my 5050 puts out an HDR image that comes closer to rivaling my OLED than I ever thought possible. I spent hours and hours yesterday looking at different 4k discs and rewatching parts of movies. The HDR image now is simply amazing! Unfortunately, the side effect is that last night I ordered a bunch more 4k HDR discs
> 
> 
> 
> To anyone that has just bought this projector, or thinking about buying it....you are not going to truly know what you have until you update to 1.03 firmware...


I tried your settings, and it doesn't look any better letting the 5050 handle the tone mapping. I'd have to guess, that Kevin Miller did such a great job calibrating my 5050, so that's why I'm not seeing any difference with 1.03. My picture is still amazing though.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> I tried your settings, and it doesn't look any better letting the 5050 handle the tone mapping. I'd have to guess, that Kevin Miller did such a great job calibrating my 5050, so that's why I'm not seeing any difference with 1.03. My picture is still amazing though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


With your a pictures they really must be observed on lap top to observe what calibration does. I must say after after a calibrating my projector last night I fully understand what you have been saying. At 1st it appears like the picture is slightly detooned. A lot of that wow and pop is actually not supposed to be there and over emphasize by I calibration error. But that wow factor also blows up negatives like a dark seen and you get milk! And you are sitting in the dark by yourself or with your family saying come on don't do this or do you need a upgrade!
I think I need to see a doctor As I find myself staring at eyeballs now. As everyone's eyes have a different character Especially after a calibration. The point of this on going babel You will have a harder time you seeing the difference because you calibrated correctly! I will explore getting off my butt and do dics this next. I may come to your same exact conclusions, but as of now I don't want the player to do anything.
That 1st shot is incredible And with the same phone then I've been complaining about!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## HAMMo7

biglen said:


> I tried your settings, and it doesn't look any better letting the 5050 handle the tone mapping. I'd have to guess, that Kevin Miller did such a great job calibrating my 5050, so that's why I'm not seeing any difference with 1.03. My picture is still amazing though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Just an utterly stunning image..WOW


----------



## HTX^2steve

That was fun updating the firmware...I had two usb 8-gig sticks FAT formatted and the Epson said...Uh no. Soooooo I found one of those freebie usb stick from a convention I went to back in the day and that one the Epson liked. 

Funny how a 4k projector only upgraded with the most crap-ass memory stick. So I think it upgraded...did a song and dance with the lights and being my projector sits way up on the ceiling thinking when I installed the PJ.."Hey I will add a cat5 cable just in case any future updates"...geez. 

Now lets get back to the magic!


----------



## Luminated67

covsound1 said:


> With your a pictures they really must be observed on lap top to observe what calibration does. I must say after after a calibrating my projector last night I fully understand what you have been saying. At 1st it appears like the picture is slightly detooned. A lot of that wow and pop is actually not supposed to be there and over emphasize by I calibration error. But that wow factor also blows up negatives like a dark seen and you get milk! And you are sitting in the dark by yourself or with your family saying come on don't do this or do you need a upgrade!
> I think I need to see a doctor As I find myself staring at eyeballs now. As everyone's eyes have a different character Especially after a calibration. The point of this on going babel You will have a harder time you seeing the difference because you calibrated correctly! I will explore getting off my butt and do dics this next. I may come to your same exact conclusions, but as of now I don't want the player to do anything.
> That 1st shot is incredible And with the same phone then I've been complaining about!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


A calibration is designed to give you what the director wants you to see, nothing more and nothing less. No doubt the wow factor isn’t there like before but you quickly start to notice stuff like colours look nature without being overblown, shadow detail again looks nature and most important the image looks not too bright which is something I think too many look for.

I would be willing to bet most who aren’t use to a calibrated image wouldn’t rate it first time they see it, but after several days they wouldn’t go back to the way it looked before.


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> A calibration is designed to give you what the director wants you to see, nothing more and nothing less. No doubt the wow factor isn’t there like before but you quickly start to notice stuff like colours look nature without being overblown, shadow detail again looks nature and most important the image looks not too bright which is something I think too many look for.
> 
> 
> 
> I would be willing to bet most who aren’t use to a calibrated image wouldn’t rate it first time they see it, but after several days they wouldn’t go back to the way it looked before.


That I sentiment is something I agree with 100%. I watch the last Gi Joe movie last night. Lamp med ,hdr slider 8,iris open. What a reference movie! Every seen had its own atmosphere. And actor( rock) face against the night sky shots incredible. I have calman home and I pro meter did the best I could. I still will get my calibration done by Kevin a professional. Especially after that 1st shot by Biglen ( notice the color temperature of the lamp carries on to the actors chess!).

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Manu9 said:


> Sorry guys one more question, I think I'll be going with a screen for now instead of paint, if I get a 135 Screen but fill about 110-120 would that be worse than getting a 120 screen? since I will be able to use the full 135 in less than two years and if there's no disadvantage there's no reason to go smaller and buy another later.
> My options atm are:
> Elite StableFrame CineGrey 3D
> Elite Aeon CineGray 3D ALR
> Silver Ticket Gray
> 
> 
> Would really appreciate input on both the Screen, and the screen size question above from people who have the Epson 5050UB, but if this is not the place just let me know where should I post and I will do that


Get the projector, use it, then get the screen.

What color are the walls?

How long is the room?

What is the seating position?




Nick Woolley said:


> Just picked up the 6050UB for my dedicated room, must admit, very disappointed with the PQ. Blacks aren't what was promised in reviews, shadow details are really poor, contrast seems substandard and clarity of picture really lacking.


While there is some variance in preference I can assure you that the 6050UB is not substandard in any way. 

There needs to be some configuration with the projector, player and source, it's not exactly plug and play.


What does dedicated room mean? 

Color of walls, ambient light?

Screen size and fabric?

How far away are you sitting?

Source?


----------



## skylarlove1999

noob00224 said:


> Get the projector, use it, then get the screen.
> 
> What color are the walls?
> 
> How long is the room?
> 
> What is the seating position?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While there is some variance in preference I can assure you that the 6050UB is not substandard in any way.
> 
> There needs to be some configuration with the projector, player and source, it's not exactly plug and play.
> 
> 
> What does dedicated room mean?
> 
> Color of walls, ambient light?
> 
> Screen size and fabric?
> 
> How far away are you sitting?
> 
> Source?


You are always so precise and detailed with your questions and your guidance. I like your style.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

skylarlove1999 said:


> You are always so precise and detailed with your questions and your guidance. I like your style.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I just try to give the info that I would have wanted (when starting up) in the format I would have liked. 

There can be a lot of info for a newcomer, and it's been said about this forum that it's like drinking from a hose.


----------



## skylarlove1999

noob00224 said:


> I just try to give the info that I would have wanted (when starting up) in the format I would have liked.
> 
> There can be a lot of info for a newcomer, and it's been said about this forum that it's like drinking from a hose.


You ain't wrong. Very thoughtful of you to donate your time and expertise. Thanks for having such a great attitude towards your fellow enthusiasts. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

Has anyone tried The Meg? From what I've read, it seems to be a good test for how the HDR is handled.


----------



## noob00224

skylarlove1999 said:


> You ain't wrong. Very thoughtful of you to donate your time and expertise. Thanks for having such a great attitude towards your fellow enthusiasts.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I have to thank the users which took their time to explain these things to me like sage11x. Especially when I had trouble getting it. Even recently I was learning about throw ratios with multi aspect ratio setups, which I remember you participated. 

Software was difficult, on PC there are so many options which is a good and a bad thing. Recently watched 3D (custom) interpolated at 60Hz, huge improvement with animation or any CGI or fast movement. Only JVC can do that.

Madvr in particular is nothing short of amazing, it makes so much older media enjoyable. I keep having to remind myself that 1080p even on DLP is not that sharp, but madvr's enhancements are so good that I don't feel the need for 4K. HDR is a good improvement depending on the source with just 43nits/12.5fL.


----------



## covsound1

I thought it would only be fair to post some of my settings. I am waiting patiently to see what some of the calibrator have found with this new firmware update. I am not a calibrator . Just wanted to show how little black crush the unit has. Notice I am at brightness 46! Med lamp.slider 8. On gamma2. And my apl is really good.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

I am working on a general calibration to share (covering the basics) that could be beneficial.

Obviously there is no way of knowing for sure with all the variables from unit to unit and setup to setup but it can't hurt to try. 

Plus... it's fun to experiment as long as expectations are kept in check and people do not assume copied settings mean they have done a proper calibration. 

- Jason


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> I am working on a general calibration to share (covering the basics) that could be beneficial.
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously there is no way of knowing for sure with all the variables from unit to unit and setup to setup but it can't hurt to try.
> 
> 
> 
> Plus... it's fun to experiment as long as expectations are kept in check and people do not assume copied settings mean they have done a proper calibration.
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


Please by all means take your time. Really looking forward to what you find. THANK YOU.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

covsound1 said:


> Please by all means take your time. Really looking forward to what you find. THANK YOU.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Oh yeah it's not something I am about to drop any minute. 

Up until now I have been doing very specific tweaking that applies to MY setup and I am still making adjustments there as I work through this new firmware (what's changed). 

- Jason


----------



## Manu9

noob00224 said:


> Get the projector, use it, then get the screen.
> 
> What color are the walls?
> 
> How long is the room?
> 
> What is the seating position?



The Walls are white for now (as is the ceiling)


The depending on where I put the projector, it can be 4m wall to wall, or 4.5m wall to wall but for the second option I can't try it without a screen as there's a window, plus there's a wall edge so the projector would have to be about a meter to the left from being center (I assume the lens shifter can handle that?)


The Seating also depends, for the first position it will be 3.7 meters, for the other it will be 4.1 meters.


----------



## biglen

Manu9 said:


> The Walls are white for now (as is the ceiling)
> 
> 
> The depending on where I put the projector, it can be 4m wall to wall, or 4.5m wall to wall but for the second option I can't try it without a screen as there's a window, plus there's a wall edge so the projector would have to be about a meter to the left from being center (I assume the lens shifter can handle that?)
> 
> 
> The Seating also depends, for the first position it will be 3.7 meters, for the other it will be 4.1 meters.


White is probably the worst color you could have for a projector.....

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> I have to thank the users which took their time to explain these things to me like sage11x. Especially when I had trouble getting it. Even recently I was learning about throw ratios with multi aspect ratio setups, which I remember you participated.
> 
> Software was difficult, on PC there are so many options which is a good and a bad thing. Recently watched 3D (custom) interpolated at 60Hz, huge improvement with animation or any CGI or fast movement. Only JVC can do that.
> 
> Madvr in particular is nothing short of amazing, it makes so much older media enjoyable. I keep having to remind myself that 1080p even on DLP is not that sharp, but madvr's enhancements are so good that I don't feel the need for 4K. HDR is a good improvement depending on the source with just 43nits/12.5fL.


I just ordered an RTX2060 GPU, to build a MadVR HTPC. I've been reading about the setup, and all the settings for MadVR. It's very overwhelming, so maybe you could give me some tips when my HTPC is done being built ? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Manu9 said:


> The Walls are white for now (as is the ceiling)
> 
> 
> The depending on where I put the projector, it can be 4m wall to wall, or 4.5m wall to wall but for the second option I can't try it without a screen as there's a window, plus there's a wall edge so the projector would have to be about a meter to the left from being center (I assume the lens shifter can handle that?)
> 
> 
> The Seating also depends, for the first position it will be 3.7 meters, for the other it will be 4.1 meters.


For lens shift calculations:
http://www.reviewtranslations.com/projection_calculator_en.html


This is your contrast/black level on white walls:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/

Consider treating the room, at least the 5' area around the screen, including screen wall, ceiling and floor (dark rug).

As it's been said, use the projector on a wall before deciding on a diagonal. But from that distance 110" is rather small.

It's unclear how long the room is. 4.5m?

The problem is that screens like the Cinegrey 3D and many angular ALRs require at least 1.9x throw ratio (screen width). 
So if the room is 450cm long minus the projector and cables you get ~390cm remaining.
390 / 1.9 = 205cm
A screen with the width of 205cm has ~92" diagonal (16:9).
http://screen-size.info/

With a seating distance of ~390cm average between the two seatings, the average screen size would be ~140". Besides such an ALR screen being expensive, the projector would have to be placed at ~590cm (lens to screen).

If you don't want to spend more than a the projector on the ALR screen that does not artifact at 1.5x (but not lower), the only solution is paints that can be customized.


Even if you had a room this long, no ALR screen can compete with a treated room. You'll still loose contrast/black level. This is an issue with a lot of setups: living rooms/with lightly colored walls, not long enough, so ALRs either get hotspots/sparkles or white screens since painting is not easy for many. 

Grey screens will have a small impact on wall reflections and come with the issue of needing more light to compensate for the negative gain of the screen. 





biglen said:


> I just ordered an RTX2060 GPU, to build a MadVR HTPC. I've been reading about the setup, and all the settings for MadVR. It's very overwhelming, so maybe you could give me some tips when my HTPC is done being built ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Sure. The best way is to understand the features so you can maximize it to your preference.


----------



## Manu9

noob00224 said:


> For lens shift calculations:
> http://www.reviewtranslations.com/projection_calculator_en.html
> *It seems to be doable according to this calculator*
> 
> 
> This is your contrast/black level on white walls:
> https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/
> *I saw that, it's quite a hit, I do have dark brown wood floors, I will be treating the whole room, but sadly it's not something I can do until after a year or so.*
> 
> 
> Consider treating the room, at least the 5' area around the screen, including screen wall, ceiling and floor (dark rug).
> *I think the best possible solution atm is black drapes on the wall that will hold the screen.*
> 
> 
> As it's been said, use the projector on a wall before deciding on a diagonal. But from that distance 110" is rather small.
> *Hopefully (according to the throw calculator) I can hit 135 inches with the zoom, and as I read, optical zoom shouldn't affect the PQ that much if any.*
> 
> 
> It's unclear how long the room is. 4.5m?
> *It's 4 meters wide, but in length it's about 5 meters, but there's a pillar at around the 4 meters spot so the projector would have to be off center if I go for the bigger distance route.*
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is that screens like the Cinegrey 3D and many angular ALRs require at least 1.9x throw ratio (screen width).
> So if the room is 450cm long minus the projector and cables you get ~390cm remaining.
> 390 / 1.9 = 205cm
> A screen with the width of 205cm has ~92" diagonal (16:9).
> http://screen-size.info/
> 
> With a seating distance of ~390cm average between the two seatings, the average screen size would be ~140". Besides such an ALR screen being expensive, the projector would have to be placed at ~590cm (lens to screen).
> 
> If you don't want to spend more than a the projector on the ALR screen that does not artifact at 1.5x (but not lower), the only solution is paints that can be customized.
> 
> 
> Even if you had a room this long, no ALR screen can compete with a treated room. You'll still loose contrast/black level. This is an issue with a lot of setups: living rooms/with lightly colored walls, not long enough, so ALRs either get hotspots/sparkles or white screens since painting is not easy for many.
> 
> Grey screens will have a small impact on wall reflections and come with the issue of needing more light to compensate for the negative gain of the screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure. The best way is to understand the features so you can maximize it to your preference.





I answered some of the points above, at this point would you recommend a white screen then or even something not ALR? as paint is not possible atm. 

This whole thing got me confused even more sorry for the many questions, I really appreciate the help!


----------



## noob00224

Manu9 said:


> I answered some of the points above, at this point would you recommend a white screen then or even something not ALR? as paint is not possible atm.
> 
> This whole thing got me confused even more sorry for the many questions, I really appreciate the help!


Personally I think for a larger screen a negative gain screen will just require unnecessary brightness without providing a worthwhile benefit.

What some people do is get a grey screen but don't increase the brightness to compensate. This way you get a dimmer image so better blacks, but also it affects the brightest whites/colors, which is an important component in HDR.

ALR screens that are too close to the projectors can have hotspots and sparkle in the center of the screen in bright scenes. There might also be raised black level with the ALR in dark scenes.

I'd go with a white screen, but you can get samples and test the difference:
https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/material-samples
https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-Popular-Projection-Materials/dp/B01E9LMOC2

Anyway this is an Epson projector with a Cinegrey 5D which is more aggressive than the 3D. The details are in the post. The poster after that shows the worst case scenario:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...-uhd60-65-owners-thread-119.html#post59510494

The HC3800 has ~89% brightness uniformity and the 5050UB ~84%. You also can't trust cameras on the internet.


----------



## Manu9

noob00224 said:


> Personally I think for a larger screen a negative gain screen will just require unnecessary brightness without providing a worthwhile benefit.
> 
> What some people do is get a grey screen but don't increase the brightness to compensate. This way you get a dimmer image so better blacks, but also it affects the brightest whites/colors, which is an important component in HDR.
> 
> ALR screens that are too close to the projectors can have hotspots and sparkle in the center of the screen in bright scenes. There might also be raised black level with the ALR in dark scenes.
> 
> I'd go with a white screen, but you can get samples and test the difference:
> https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/material-samples
> https://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-Popular-Projection-Materials/dp/B01E9LMOC2
> 
> Anyway this is an Epson projector with a Cinegrey 5D which is more aggressive than the 3D. The details are in the post. The poster after that shows the worst case scenario:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...-uhd60-65-owners-thread-119.html#post59510494
> 
> The HC3800 has ~89% brightness uniformity and the 5050UB ~84%. You also can't trust cameras on the internet.



I don't know if it's just my untrained eyes but I think that looks good!
More aggressive is good or bad? I have no idea what that means.


That's a white 5D? Honestly if that so I might just go with White3D, the only reason I chose Grey is because I have White walls and ceiling so I figured grey would help counter that a little bit.
Also sadly being in the middle east, none of those samples will deliver  (Actually technically Silver Ticket does, but it's $42 for shipping a $4 Pack)


----------



## fredworld

smile said:


> As a rule, should the AVR feeding the 5050ub apply Video Scaling*, or does this duplicate or conflict with the pj functions?
> I have an Anthem MX310, if that matters.
> Thx
> 
> * deinterlaced and scaled to highest resolution supported by pj.



That's an interesting question, for which I don't have an answer. I just turned off the Video Scaling in my Marantz AV7704. I "think" the image looks better, clearer, sharper, closer to noise free.


----------



## fredworld

plain fan said:


> To summarize:
> 
> Pre 1.03FW:
> Set the Panasonic to the appropriate display type (OLED or projector based on model).
> Set the Panasonic HDR Optimizer to "On" which lets the player perform the tone mapping.
> 
> Post 1.03FW:
> Set the Panasonic to the appropriate display type (OLED or projector based on model).
> Set the Panasonic HDR Optimizer to "Off" and adjust the level of HDR preference on the Epson 5050/6050.
> 
> 
> Did I capture this correctly?
> 
> And Jason, thank you for taking the time to perform measurements of what you're seeing! Please keep the updates coming.



Unless I missed something, I don't see a reply to this question. The Panasonic HDR optimizer should be off with the new FW update??


----------



## Almondo99

*100" screen / 9' Distance*

Hey all-
Considering this projector (5050ub specifically) to replace a 65" OLED. I know the quality loss, but at 9' (distance kind of locked because of speaker placement) it's starting to feel a little small.
It'd be used for movies/gaming which is why I'm considering this one. Wondering how it would look with an 100" AT Screen with a 9' viewing distance? Will it be too close? I've seen some of the reviews with 'screen door effect' at literally like 6" away from the screen, but at 9' I'm wondering if that'd be an issue. First foray into projectors so all comments would be helpful!


----------



## Luminated67

Manu9 said:


> The Walls are white for now (as is the ceiling)
> 
> 
> The depending on where I put the projector, it can be 4m wall to wall, or 4.5m wall to wall but for the second option I can't try it without a screen as there's a window, plus there's a wall edge so the projector would have to be about a meter to the left from being center (I assume the lens shifter can handle that?)
> 
> 
> The Seating also depends, for the first position it will be 3.7 meters, for the other it will be 4.1 meters.


Ok well let’s say the 4m wall to wall is preferable as you don’t want that amount of lens shift because you will still need to lens shift downwards anyway. So 4m will become 3.5 to the front of the projector to the wall and this will give you approximately a 100”-110” screen size if working with standard manufacturer sizes that is, now if you want to mount your speakers behind the screen then this will decrease quite a bit so maybe not an ideal option if size matters.

You will have hotspots if you want to go ALR screen because screen width on both those screen ranges from 223cm to 244cm and ideally that means projector should be mounted 1.8 times away from the screen for ALR (4m - 4.4m away). Best to try and treat your room rather than look for a screen which will do it for you.


----------



## Luminated67

Almondo99 said:


> Hey all-
> Considering this projector (5050ub specifically) to replace a 65" OLED. I know the quality loss, but at 9' (distance kind of locked because of speaker placement) it's starting to feel a little small.
> It'd be used for movies/gaming which is why I'm considering this one. Wondering how it would look with an 100" AT Screen with a 9' viewing distance? Will it be too close? I've seen some of the reviews with 'screen door effect' at literally like 6" away from the screen, but at 9' I'm wondering if that'd be an issue. First foray into projectors so all comments would be helpful!


I currently sit 9.5ft away from my 100” screen, looks great to my eyes.


----------



## Manu9

Luminated67 said:


> Ok well let’s say the 4m wall to wall is preferable as you don’t want that amount of lens shift because you will still need to lens shift downwards anyway. So 4m will become 3.5 to the front of the projector to the wall and this will give you approximately a 100”-110” screen size if working with standard manufacturer sizes that is, now if you want to mount your speakers behind the screen then this will decrease quite a bit so maybe not an ideal option if size matters.
> 
> You will have hotspots if you want to go ALR screen because screen width on both those screen ranges from 223cm to 244cm and ideally that means projector should be mounted 1.8 times away from the screen for ALR (4m - 4.4m away). Best to try and treat your room rather than look for a screen which will do it for you.



Sounds reasonable, since I will have a treated room once I move, so roughly a year or a bit more from now I will just go with a normal white or grey.


Would going with a 135 and filling only 110 be an issue? since I would rather not get 110 now and 135 a year or max two from now.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Almondo99 said:


> Hey all-
> 
> Considering this projector (5050ub specifically) to replace a 65" OLED. I know the quality loss, but at 9' (distance kind of locked because of speaker placement) it's starting to feel a little small.
> 
> It'd be used for movies/gaming which is why I'm considering this one. Wondering how it would look with an 100" AT Screen with a 9' viewing distance? Will it be too close? I've seen some of the reviews with 'screen door effect' at literally like 6" away from the screen, but at 9' I'm wondering if that'd be an issue. First foray into projectors so all comments would be helpful!


You would not see SCREEN DOOR EFFECT at 9ft. Or 6ft. It begins at 4 ft . I suppose some half eagle human being could begin to see SDE at 6 ft. it is barely noticeable even at 4ft . If your room is dark, light controlled and the walls/ceiling/floors consist of darker paint/material choices than a projector could provide a more immersive movie and gaming experience. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Manu9 said:


> Sounds reasonable, since I will have a treated room once I move, so roughly a year or a bit more from now I will just go with a normal white or grey.
> 
> 
> Would going with a 135 and filling only 110 be an issue? since I would rather not get 110 now and 135 a year or max two from now.


Some people would be distracted by the non lit portion of the screen since if you go with a 16x9 screen you will have the black/gray bars on scope movies and the the unlit portion due to improper throw distance and then the black border of the screen. You would also have that same situation on the sides for all content. It will only be for a year. Not ideal but you could live with it.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Manu9 said:


> Sounds reasonable, since I will have a treated room once I move, so roughly a year or a bit more from now I will just go with a normal white or grey.
> 
> 
> Would going with a 135 and filling only 110 be an issue? since I would rather not get 110 now and 135 a year or max two from now.


Just so I understand you correctly, are you wanting to add a projector with screen now but in the future move to a different house where the room will be bigger and allow the projector to be moved back from the screen to throw a bigger image?

I would personally go with one of three options if this is the case.

1: If you can projector the image on to a flat smooth wall I would suggest painting it with screen paint, make this wall your feature wall and the rest a different colour preferably a dark Matt finish on the other walls as this allows you to achieve almost ALR characteristic without the issue of hotspots.

2: You could make a DIY frame and just buy spandex to cover it or projector screen material from the likes of Carl’s Place, this option would only cost you about $80-100.

3: Buy a cheap 110” fixed frame or pull down screen and sell it on when you want to move up in size because the whole huge borders idea will bug the hell out of you in no time at all.

Just a thought but if your wall isn’t perfectly flat you could buy a 8ft x 4ft MDF sheet that’s 1/2” thick and mount it to the wall and paint or cover it. That size would be roughly between 100” and 110”.


----------



## Manu9

skylarlove1999 said:


> Some people would be distracted by the non lit portion of the screen since if you go with a 16x9 screen you will have the black/gray bars on scope movies and the the unlit portion due to improper throw distance and then the black border of the screen. You would also have that same situation on the sides for all content. It will only be for a year. Not ideal but you could live with it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



That's what I thought, if it gets annoying I'll use black fabric, I just needed to know that it wouldn't affect the picture for any reason whatsoever.


Apologies for my many inquiries, it's a new topic for me and I like to learn the ins and outs, good news though is that I'll be getting a 9400/6050 for the lack of 5050 in the Middle East, should be in stock and delivered in 2 weeks!


----------



## Manu9

Luminated67 said:


> Just so I understand you correctly, are you wanting to add a projector with screen now but in the future move to a different house where the room will be bigger and allow the projector to be moved back from the screen to throw a bigger image?
> 
> I would personally go with one of three options if this is the case.
> 
> 1: If you can projector the image on to a flat smooth wall I would suggest painting it with screen paint, make this wall your feature wall and the rest a different colour preferably a dark Matt finish on the other walls as this allows you to achieve almost ALR characteristic without the issue of hotspots.
> 
> 2: You could make a DIY frame and just buy spandex to cover it or projector screen material from the likes of Carl’s Place, this option would only cost you about $80-100.
> 
> 3: Buy a cheap 110” fixed frame or pull down screen and sell it on when you want to move up in size because the whole huge borders idea will bug the hell out of you in no time at all.
> 
> Just a thought but if your wall isn’t perfectly flat you could buy a 8ft x 4ft MDF sheet that’s 1/2” thick and mount it to the wall and paint or cover it. That size would be roughly between 100” and 110”.



I've thought about the first two, but with the COVID situation my city is basically on lockdown apart from people making deliveries. so it will make things harder, and while Carl's Place options are fairly nice and inexpensive, the shipping sadly is :


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Just so I understand you correctly, are you wanting to add a projector with screen now but in the future move to a different house where the room will be bigger and allow the projector to be moved back from the screen to throw a bigger image?
> 
> 
> 
> I would personally go with one of three options if this is the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 1: If you can projector the image on to a flat smooth wall I would suggest painting it with screen paint, make this wall your feature wall and the rest a different colour preferably a dark Matt finish on the other walls as this allows you to achieve almost ALR characteristic without the issue of hotspots.
> 
> 
> 
> 2: You could make a DIY frame and just buy spandex to cover it or projector screen material from the likes of Carl’s Place, this option would only cost you about $80-100.
> 
> 
> 
> 3: Buy a cheap 110” fixed frame or pull down screen and sell it on when you want to move up in size because the whole huge borders idea will bug the hell out of you in no time at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Just a thought but if your wall isn’t perfectly flat you could buy a 8ft x 4ft MDF sheet that’s 1/2” thick and mount it to the wall and paint or cover it. That size would be roughly between 100” and 110”.


I think he said painting wasn't an option, when I suggested that. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

Finally.....I found the new firmware,

I do have a question about it though, I input the calibration settings from projectorreviews.com and I really like the outcome, if I install the firmware, will the settings look better, same, worse?

Thanks


----------



## Manu9

biglen said:


> I think he said painting wasn't an option, when I suggested that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Indeed, as a concept it could be possible, but since the lockdown I wouldn't be able to get someone to help me paint it, and with shipping the special paint and might having to pay to repaint it in a year or two it's more logical to go another route.


Alright, will bite the shipping cost and get a smaller screen from Carl's as well as a sample pack for this year, to be able to make an informed decision and buy a quality one later on. Thank you all for your amazing help, would have made so many wrong decisions without you!


----------



## skylarlove1999

mon2479 said:


> Finally.....I found the new firmware,
> 
> I do have a question about it though, I input the calibration settings from projectorreviews.com and I really like the outcome, if I install the firmware, will the settings look better, same, worse?
> 
> Thanks


Everybody is having different results you can get it better in the end is definitely a great upgrade with the firmware but you may need to change your gamma-2 gamma for me was oversaturated made things overly orange 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Manu9 said:


> That's what I thought, if it gets annoying I'll use black fabric, I just needed to know that it wouldn't affect the picture for any reason whatsoever.
> 
> 
> Apologies for my many inquiries, it's a new topic for me and I like to learn the ins and outs, good news though is that I'll be getting a 9400/6050 for the lack of 5050 in the Middle East, should be in stock and delivered in 2 weeks!


The portion of the screen that isn't filled with picture will decrease your contrast it probably won't be that noticeable but it will do that

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

Thanks skylarlove, what is your gamma now?


----------



## ryudoadema

biglen said:


> I tried your settings, and it doesn't look any better letting the 5050 handle the tone mapping. I'd have to guess, that Kevin Miller did such a great job calibrating my 5050, so that's why I'm not seeing any difference with 1.03. My picture is still amazing though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Weren't people saying that the new update would need re-calibrating because it changes brightness and gamma? So maybe your excellent calibration pre 1.03 is now just mediocre post 1.03 and bringing the picture down...


----------



## biglen

ryudoadema said:


> Weren't people saying that the new update would need re-calibrating because it changes brightness and gamma? So maybe your excellent calibration pre 1.03 is now just mediocre post 1.03 and bringing the picture down...


My picture doesn't look any different after the update. I never said it looks worse. I still have a great picture. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Manu9 said:


> That's what I thought, if it gets annoying I'll use black fabric, I just needed to know that it wouldn't affect the picture for any reason whatsoever.
> 
> 
> Apologies for my many inquiries, it's a new topic for me and I like to learn the ins and outs, good news though is that I'll be getting a 9400/6050 for the lack of 5050 in the Middle East, should be in stock and delivered in 2 weeks!


Didn't realise you were in the Middle East. 



Manu9 said:


> I've thought about the first two, but with the COVID situation my city is basically on lockdown apart from people making deliveries. so it will make things harder, and while Carl's Place options are fairly nice and inexpensive, the shipping sadly is :


----------



## Manu9

Luminated67 said:


> Didn't realise you were in the Middle East.
> 
> 
> 
> Each country is following a different path regards to getting back to normality so I guess where you are things are a little slower.
> 
> OK, if you are set on getting a 135" screen then I would seriously recommend masking the borders down to a 110" screen.



Actually I posted after that, i'll go with a smaller one from Carl's (Carl's shipping price was not that bad compared to everywhere else atm), and the sample pack while we're at it, which can help me make a more informed decision in a year or two when I need something bigger.


----------



## ryudoadema

biglen said:


> My picture doesn't look any different after the update. I never said it looks worse. I still have a great picture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I didn't think you said it looks worse. Just saying that maybe your cal. wasn't as good with the new update, possibly countering any benefit of the update and ending up with basically no benefit. But if you say it looks no different, that's probably not the case and you can dismiss my comment


----------



## noob00224

Manu9 said:


> I don't know if it's just my untrained eyes but I think that looks good!
> More aggressive is good or bad? I have no idea what that means.
> 
> 
> That's a white 5D? Honestly if that so I might just go with White3D, the only reason I chose Grey is because I have White walls and ceiling so I figured grey would help counter that a little bit.
> Also sadly being in the middle east, none of those samples will deliver  (Actually technically Silver Ticket does, but it's $42 for shipping a $4 Pack)





Manu9 said:


> Indeed, as a concept it could be possible, but since the lockdown I wouldn't be able to get someone to help me paint it, and with shipping the special paint and might having to pay to repaint it in a year or two it's more logical to go another route.
> 
> 
> Alright, will bite the shipping cost and get a smaller screen from Carl's as well as a sample pack for this year, to be able to make an informed decision and buy a quality one later on. Thank you all for your amazing help, would have made so many wrong decisions without you!



There some confusion here. Are you going to move from the place you're currently at to a place where a larger screen (135") is possible?

Painting is a easy operation. Not complicated.

There is no white 3D/5D, both the screens are grey. The picture projected was white.

Here is another example with 3D and 1.5x throw ratio:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2122202-aeon-elite-screen-cinegrey-3d-9.html#post58809924
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2122202-aeon-elite-screen-cinegrey-3d-10.html#post59134308

It depends how much you will notice it.

Carl's and Elite sell fabric variants of their ALR fabrics. For Elite it's called Designer Cut.


----------



## FyreFlux

How much of a benefit do the Panasonic players such as the 420/820 offer over a standard older 4K player? I'm currently using an LG UP970 that I stole from my upstairs OLED for the time being that seems to produce a pretty good image, but obviously I don't need a Dolby Vision player for the 5050UB. 

I will say that probably about 75% of our movie watching is generally done via the Shield TV Pro using Plex to play our ripped discs, but for our favorites or big blockbusters we use the discs. My equipment is in a media rack in another room and it's just move convenient to pick a movie and hit play on Plex than dig up the disc and insert it.

So I guess my question is if the Panasonic player will be a significant upgrade. I can probably convince the wife that we need a second player if that is the case.


----------



## biglen

FyreFlux said:


> How much of a benefit do the Panasonic players such as the 420/820 offer over a standard older 4K player? I'm currently using an LG UP970 that I stole from my upstairs OLED for the time being that seems to produce a pretty good image, but obviously I don't need a Dolby Vision player for the 5050UB.
> 
> 
> 
> I will say that probably about 75% of our movie watching is generally done via the Shield TV Pro using Plex to play our ripped discs, but for our favorites or big blockbusters we use the discs. My equipment is in a media rack in another room and it's just move convenient to pick a movie and hit play on Plex than dig up the disc and insert it.
> 
> 
> 
> So I guess my question is if the Panasonic player will be a significant upgrade. I can probably convince the wife that we need a second player if that is the case.


I know the 420/820 are well known for how well they do HDR tone mapping. You can get a 420 pretty cheap these days. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

Finally used the Blu-Ray player last night to test. My conclusion they both do the same thing with the same end results. I agree the panny gives you more finite control.But what ever magic settings you find for one movie may not work for the next? If looking for higher apl you loose black floor and color .The first pic is calibrated med lamp standard 8 hdr slider. The next is at 5 hdr no adjustments.The 3rd one is adjusted. Left them un crop so you can see the glass of my tube amps to get an idea of the light. The other pics random normal calibration. The last sdr adjusted brightnes control 52.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Manu9

noob00224 said:


> There some confusion here. Are you going to move from the place you're currently at to a place where a larger screen (135") is possible?
> 
> Painting is a easy operation. Not complicated.
> 
> There is no white 3D/5D, both the screens are grey. The picture projected was white.
> 
> Here is another example with 3D and 1.5x throw ratio:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2122202-aeon-elite-screen-cinegrey-3d-9.html#post58809924
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-screens/2122202-aeon-elite-screen-cinegrey-3d-10.html#post59134308
> 
> It depends how much you will notice it.
> 
> Carl's and Elite sell fabric variants of their ALR fabrics. For Elite it's called Designer Cut.



Oh I misunderstood that then. And yes, I will be moving to a place where a 135' is possible, and I will be painting the room itself in a dark color as well.


----------



## Luminated67

covsound1 said:


> Finally used the Blu-Ray player last night to test. My conclusion they both do the same thing with the same end results. I agree the panny gives you more finite control.But what ever magic settings you find for one movie may not work for the next? If looking for higher apl you loose black floor and color .The first pic is calibrated med lamp standard 8 hdr slider. The next is at 5 hdr no adjustments.The 3rd one is adjusted. Left them un crop so you can see the glass of my tube amps to get an idea of the light. The other pics random normal calibration. The last sdr adjusted brightnes control 52.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Here’s the Panasonic UB420 set to SDR 2020










Admittedly this was pre 1.03 firmware update.


----------



## noob00224

Manu9 said:


> Oh I misunderstood that then. And yes, I will be moving to a place where a 135' is possible, and I will be painting the room itself in a dark color as well.


I don't know if you have room to evaluate the projector in the current setup with respect to diagonal and seating distance.

Preference does change over time. 

And 135" from 3.7 and 4.1m is small IMO, so I would not get a 135" white screen for later use. Just use the wall.


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> Here’s the Panasonic UB420 set to SDR 2020
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Admittedly this was pre 1.03 firmware update.


This is 1.03 hdr bt2020 on the panny. I will try to take a shot of your photo later. This is fascinating.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

covsound1 said:


> This is 1.03 hdr bt2020 on the panny. I will try to take a shot of your photo later. This is fascinating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Here’s just before the image of yours










Out of curiosity what’s your brightness and contrast set at because the pause bar is quite a bit brighter than mine.

P.S. Why does the image thing on AVS make images look washed out compared to the original?


----------



## FyreFlux

biglen said:


> I know the 420/820 are well known for how well they do HDR tone mapping. You can get a 420 pretty cheap these days.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I have read that as well, I was just wondering how much of a difference it really makes. I just don't want to be buying a new player and not see any real improvement.

Has anyone with an older 4k player upgraded to one of the Panasonic players? Is the difference noticeable on the 6050/5050?


----------



## hungarianhc

I have spent so much time here learning about how this projector does with gaming, movies, etc. Here's a question. Has anyone used it for screen mirroring with Chromecast / Airplay? I'm sitting in my living room now, doing some work, getting excited about my 115" screen + 5050UB to be delivered in a few weeks... and I was just wondering how work content / text looks on it.


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> Here’s just before the image of yours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity what’s your brightness and contrast set at because the pause bar is quite a bit brighter than mine.
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Why does the image thing on AVS make images look washed out compared to the original?


One of the things I discovered was how linear this unit is. And how one adjustment affects all the others. I went against what is normally correct gamma -2. And started calibration at gamma+2.With my apl higher now so was my black level. I normally I would never dip under 52 hdr brightness level to avoid crush.This unit can dip as low as 41 with out crush! iI did this for a better overall apl while trying to keep the directors flim intention. Everyone will have their own way doing things but as of this moment I am using the panny wide open. No help.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

covsound1 said:


> One of the things I discovered was how linear this unit is. And how one adjustment affects all the others. I went against what is normally correct gamma -2. And started calibration at gamma+2.With my apl higher now so was my black level. I normally I would never dip under 52 hdr brightness level to avoid crush.This unit can dip as low as 41 with out crush! iI did this for a better overall apl while trying to keep the directors flim intention. Everyone will have their own way doing things but as of this moment I am using the panny wide open. No help.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Iam sorry didn't answer you question. Between the phone's is one thing and I feel the only way to really observe the pictures is on a lap top.Also I posted basic settings .go back.I still feel the iPhone represents the best colors.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

There are way too many variables to be making image assessments based upon screen 'shots', especially from different environments (lighting, wall color, etc.) , setups (screen, gear, settings, etc.) and capture devices (camera vs. phone). Then add in the display that everyone is viewing the uploaded images on (properly calibrated display?), even if we all had mastering monitors there would still be all the previous variables.

Yeah, I know it's still fun to look at screenshots. 

- Jason


----------



## chasiliff

I would love to get anyone's impressions of the 5050 or 6050 versus a JVC RS500, 520 or 540. I have an RS500 calibrated on a 2.35:1 170" screen in a dedicated dark theater (batcave). Yes, too much screen but I love the size at about 16' away for the main center chairs and maybe 11' at the closest for right side chair. Just too little light output to really swing HDR well, even with a great HDR curve to get the most out of my projector, calibrated in January. I love the JVC image, but need more horsepower. SDR with a strong bulb is good, but I always could use more lumens. 

I have considered the new JVCs, but I think too heavy for my current ceiling setup, probably too expensive for not enough improvement in what I get, and not bright enough. Giving up dark, dark blacks would be tough.

Any thoughts after this new firmware would be much appreciated as well!


----------



## noob00224

chasiliff said:


> I would love to get anyone's impressions of the 5050 or 6050 versus a JVC RS500, 520 or 540. I have an RS500 calibrated on a 2.35:1 170" screen in a dedicated dark theater (batcave). Yes, too much screen but I love the size at about 16' away for the main center chairs and maybe 11' at the closest for right side chair. Just too little light output to really swing HDR well, even with a great HDR curve to get the most out of my projector, calibrated in January. I love the JVC image, but need more horsepower. SDR with a strong bulb is good, but I always could use more lumens.
> 
> I have considered the new JVCs, but I think too heavy for my current ceiling setup, probably too expensive for not enough improvement in what I get, and not bright enough. Giving up dark, dark blacks would be tough.
> 
> Any thoughts after this new firmware would be much appreciated as well!


What about a positive gain screen, or paint (applied on wall or a white screen)?


----------



## chasiliff

It's a Carada BW (Close to 1.3 gain, but usually thought to be 1.1-1.2) 2.35:1 at 170". I'm more interested in upgrading projector and fiddling with screen. I also use a Cinevista anamorphic lens to get a little more light but... still would like more.


----------



## noob00224

chasiliff said:


> It's a Carada BW (Close to 1.3 gain, but usually thought to be 1.1-1.2) 2.35:1 at 170". I'm more interested in upgrading projector and fiddling with screen. I also use a Cinevista anamorphic lens to get a little more light but... still would like more.


The problem is that projectors capable of good picture quality are not that bright, unless you look at much more expensive units.

The screen does seem to have ~1.3 gain, which is about the limit of what's recommended, in general.

Maybe build a hush box and use whatever projector in High lamp.


----------



## Nick Woolley

noob00224 said:


> While there is some variance in preference I can assure you that the 6050UB is not substandard in any way.
> 
> There needs to be some configuration with the projector, player and source, it's not exactly plug and play.
> 
> 
> What does dedicated room mean?
> 
> Color of walls, ambient light?
> 
> Screen size and fabric?
> 
> How far away are you sitting?
> 
> Source?


What does dedicated room mean? *Cinema room, fully light controlled.*

Color of walls, ambient light? *Dark dark red on the side, matte black around the screen. Both light absorbing paints that are used in commercial cinemas*

Screen size and fabric? *128" screen details here* https://www.listeningpost.co.nz/Pro...2-5-Series-Fixed-__I.291896__C.27680__N.27756

How far away are you sitting? *Depends on what row of seating I am sitting in*.

Source? *PC, 4K UHD movies, uncompressed with original quality.*

Have done a plethora of calibration settings, from what I've found in professional reviews to what has been posted throughout this thread.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Here goes. HDR calibration complete confusion. SDR went smooth but im lost in all the variables of the HDR world.
I have an epson 5050ub, and will use the lastest i1 display pro plus. 1- I want to use the internal HCFR pattern generator for HDR10. What settings need to be set in order to ensure the PC, rz830 reciever and 5050ub are all synced together to ensure proper readings ? 2- this projector does 100% of the DCI-P3. Im not sure what that means? Should I be choosing REC.2020 CIE graph?.REC.2020/P3? or something else? 3- Gamma. I understand there is no standard and the curve is not liner. I should have an S shape and need to selet st.2084? What other settings need manual adjusting or overide to match my projectors capabilities? 4- tone mapping. My projector has an HDR button that allows me to select from 0 to 16 ( 16 being the darkest ) how I view my HDR content. Its adjustable on the fly. How do I know what to set this to? How do I know which setting to start calibrating on? 5- contrast, brightness color and tint. For SDR I initially used clipping patterns to set contrast and brightness. From what I understand I should NOT adjust this at all for HDR? And leave them at the default of 50? Color and tint could be adjusted if needed when doing CMS? Thats all for now....but im sure ill have more questions as I go. Thank you !


----------



## Chris Corcoran

also,

What is new in the 1.03 firmware ?


----------



## chasiliff

chasiliff said:


> I would love to get anyone's impressions of the 5050 or 6050 versus a JVC RS500, 520 or 540. I have an RS500 calibrated on a 2.35:1 170" screen in a dedicated dark theater (batcave). Yes, too much screen but I love the size at about 16' away for the main center chairs and maybe 11' at the closest for right side chair. Just too little light output to really swing HDR well, even with a great HDR curve to get the most out of my projector, calibrated in January. I love the JVC image, but need more horsepower. SDR with a strong bulb is good, but I always could use more lumens.
> 
> I have considered the new JVCs, but I think too heavy for my current ceiling setup, probably too expensive for not enough improvement in what I get, and not bright enough. Giving up dark, dark blacks would be tough.
> 
> Any thoughts after this new firmware would be much appreciated as well!


I'm looking for thoughts from someone who has used a JVC RS500,520 or 540 compared to the 5050 or 6050, especially in regards to a big screen. I have a Carada BW 170" 1.3 gain screen. 

How would the new firmware affect this?


----------



## noob00224

Nick Woolley said:


> What does dedicated room mean? *Cinema room, fully light controlled.*
> 
> Color of walls, ambient light? *Dark dark red on the side, matte black around the screen. Both light absorbing paints that are used in commercial cinemas*
> 
> Screen size and fabric? *128" screen details here* https://www.listeningpost.co.nz/Pro...2-5-Series-Fixed-__I.291896__C.27680__N.27756
> 
> How far away are you sitting? *Depends on what row of seating I am sitting in*.
> 
> Source? *PC, 4K UHD movies, uncompressed with original quality.*
> 
> Have done a plethora of calibration settings, from what I've found in professional reviews to what has been posted throughout this thread.


I assume the ceiling is treated and the screen is white?

So how far away are the rows?

Each projector is unique and settings don't always apply, and might make things worse. Since I don't have a UB series maybe ask some of the other users with some startup settings. Or get a calibration disc like a Disney WOW, or S&M.
This one as well, but no HDR help:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...48496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

What player/software is being used on the PC? OS, GPU?

Do the screenshots on this thread look ok?
Check out this thread as well, Luminated67 has a TW9400 (non US 6050):
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...projector-screenshot-eye-candy-thread-19.html


----------



## Almondo99

Luminated67 said:


> I currently sit 9.5ft away from my 100” screen, looks great to my eyes.


Good to know! I'm pretty set on the 5050 I think, NX5 looks great but out of price range for now I think.

Last thing I'm checking is the screen, I was set on the Elite Screens Aeon AUHD 100" but saw the minimum recommended viewing distance is 1.5 x screen width - closer than that will I notice texture or anything? Anyone with experience with this screen?


----------



## gunlife

Almondo99 said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I currently sit 9.5ft away from my 100â€ screen, looks great to my eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know! I'm pretty set on the 5050 I think, NX5 looks great but out of price range for now I think.
> 
> Last thing I'm checking is the screen, I was set on the Elite Screens Aeon AUHD 100" but saw the minimum recommended viewing distance is 1.5 x screen width - closer than that will I notice texture or anything? Anyone with experience with this screen?
Click to expand...

Yes i have this exact screen. In bright sceens you will notice texture


----------



## Almondo99

gunlife said:


> Yes i have this exact screen. In bright sceens you will notice texture


What size / viewing distance? Hmm that's disappointing, is it distracting in your opinion?


----------



## GZoomer

What is available for 3D glasses for this projector? Seems like Epson glasses have become a collectors item. Want to watch Prometheus in 3D.


----------



## biglen

GZoomer said:


> What is available for 3D glasses for this projector? Seems like Epson glasses have become a collectors item. Want to watch Prometheus in 3D.


Use the thread search button. This question has been asked a million times already. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

jorisdriesen said:


> Is formatted in exFAT and yes I had it in the USB-A slot .


The instructions say use FAT32.


----------



## Chris Corcoran

This 1.03 firmware...

Where do I find it? Epson only has the 1.01 posted for download.

Does it work on all models/regions 5050 and 6050? Install instructions?


Last but not least what improvements are made?


----------



## jorisdriesen

BIC2 said:


> The instructions say use FAT32.


I can only format to exFAT it seems. Anyway, projector is with the service company now, they said they will update the firmware as well.


----------



## Pretorian

Chris Corcoran said:


> This 1.03 firmware...
> 
> Where do I find it? Epson only has the 1.01 posted for download.
> 
> Does it work on all models/regions 5050 and 6050? Install instructions?
> 
> 
> Last but not least what improvements are made?


https://www.epson.se/support?productID=26871#drivers


----------



## kungfuman

covsound1 said:


> I thought it would only be fair to post some of my settings. I am waiting patiently to see what some of the calibrator have found with this new firmware update. I am not a calibrator . Just wanted to show how little black crush the unit has. Notice I am at brightness 46! Med lamp.slider 8. On gamma2. And my apl is really good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Just out of interest, what film is this?


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Pretorian said:


> Chris Corcoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> This 1.03 firmware...
> 
> Where do I find it? Epson only has the 1.01 posted for download.
> 
> Does it work on all models/regions 5050 and 6050? Install instructions?
> 
> 
> Last but not least what improvements are made?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.epson.se/support?productID=26871#drivers
Click to expand...


Thanks for this.

For an unrelated noob question....

Is HDR limited range 16 to 235? If so is that the pc settings I set from the GPU that I should use when outputting HDR test patterns from HCFR to the projector?

Am I completely off the mark thinking sdr is 16 to 235 and hdr is 0 to 255?


----------



## covsound1

kungfuman said:


> Just out of interest, what film is this?


 Elyssiun 4k hdr with Matt Damon 2013. Sorry need some sleep Elysium


----------



## Nick Woolley

Well this is some stupid irony, projector Shat itself tonight blue and orange flashing lights.


----------



## Manu9

Nick Woolley said:


> Well this is some stupid irony, projector Shat itself tonight blue and orange flashing lights.



Well that sucks, it's still under warranty though, right?


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Nick Woolley said:


> Well this is some stupid irony, projector Shat itself tonight blue and orange flashing lights.


Woah, after firmware update?


----------



## DaGamePimp

Here's a very basic starting point (obviously this is from my unit in my room with my gear so YMMV )...

I tried to push it as far as I could toward dynamic without being crushed or blown out (while making minimal adjustment, thus allowing 1.03 to work its magic).
This is not as punchy as my personal calibration but that has a bunch of other tweaks that work for my room with my gear. 

Digital Cinema (Medium Lamp / High Speed Auto Iris) 
- If you wish to use High Lamp with HDR it will throw the calibration off a bit but since this is just for fun anyway... have at it. 

Brightness = 45 (this seems to be a good setting all-around... SDR and HDR)
Contrast = 56 (could go a bit higher but it color shifted beyond this point)

COLOR TEMP:
Color Temp = 5 (closest to 6500K post 1.03)
Skin Tone = 4
Custom:
Offset R = 50
Offset G = 50
Offset B = 49
Gain R = 41
Gain G = 50
Gain B = 46

Gamma = -2 (or -1 if -2 is too dark for your environment) 
-2 tracks really close to 2.4 while -1 is closer to 2.3

* Since somebody mentioned using +2 on Gamma I measured it and it tracks from a 1.8 to 2.0


I'm sure most of you have tinkered and found settings you'll like more than these but this is a basic CAL that comes out under dE 3 without diving into the C.M.S (which is almost assured to make things worse by using settings from another units calibration).

This is taking the media sources out of the equation, it was done via a TPG and not a pattern disc via a specific player (not everyone has a Panasonic 420/820/9000).

Surely you can't be serious... 
I am serious, and stop calling me Shirley.


- Jason


----------



## Nick Woolley

Manu9 said:


> Nick Woolley said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well this is some stupid irony, projector Shat itself tonight blue and orange flashing lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well that sucks, it's still under warranty though, right?
Click to expand...

Yeah only a week old. 




Chris Corcoran said:


> Nick Woolley said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well this is some stupid irony, projector Shat itself tonight blue and orange flashing lights.
> 
> 
> 
> Woah, after firmware update?
Click to expand...

Nope, just randomly.


----------



## Azekecse

Nick Woolley said:


> Well this is some stupid irony, projector Shat itself tonight blue and orange flashing lights.


1. Check and clean your filter.

2. Replace lamp, it should be OEM lamp (I had that issue). New OEM lamp solved my problem. Call Epson, they will probably send you a new lamp, under warranty.

3. Make sure your projector is well ventilated.

4. Unplug projector for ~30 min. 

Hope this helps.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> Here's a very basic starting point (obviously this is from my unit in my room with my gear so YMMV )...
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to push it as far as I could toward dynamic without being crushed or blown out (while making minimal adjustment, thus allowing 1.03 to work its magic).
> 
> This is not as punchy as my personal calibration but that has a bunch of other tweaks that work for my room with my gear.
> 
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema (Medium Lamp / High Speed Auto Iris)
> 
> - If you wish to use High Lamp with HDR it will throw the calibration off a bit but since this is just for fun anyway... have at it.
> 
> 
> 
> Brightness = 45 (this seems to be a good setting all-around... SDR and HDR)
> 
> Contrast = 56 (could go a bit higher but it color shifted beyond this point)
> 
> 
> 
> COLOR TEMP:
> 
> Color Temp = 5 (closest to 6500K post 1.03)
> 
> Skin Tone = 4
> 
> Custom:
> 
> Offset R = 50
> 
> Offset G = 50
> 
> Offset B = 49
> 
> Gain R = 41
> 
> Gain G = 50
> 
> Gain B = 46
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma = -2 (or -1 if -2 is too dark for your environment)
> 
> -2 tracks really close to 2.4 while -1 is closer to 2.3
> 
> 
> 
> * Since somebody mentioned using +2 on Gamma I measured it and it tracks from a 1.8 to 2.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure most of you have tinkered and found settings you'll like more than these but this is a basic CAL (that comes out under dE 3 without diving into the C.M.S (which is almost assured to make things worse by using settings from another units calibration).
> 
> 
> 
> This is taking the media sources out of the equation, it was done via a TPG and not a pattern disc via a specific player (not everyone has a Panasonic 420/820/9000).
> 
> 
> 
> Surely you can't be serious...
> 
> I am serious, and stop calling me Shirley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


A million thanks. My offsets where really low I will bring them up. I am a noob

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

Nick Woolley said:


> Yeah only a week old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, just randomly.


Wanted to add reinstall your lamp.Cold conections happens out of the blue.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## cky2354

I just updated my firmware to 1.03 and will try the settings above! Thank you so much. My only question is I'm using AppleTV and wanting to know what the best settings for that is? Currently I have it set to 4K HDR and 4:2:2 I believe or is it 4:4:4... anyway not sure if that's the best setting for it.


----------



## Azekecse

cky2354 said:


> I just updated my firmware to 1.03 and will try the settings above! Thank you so much. My only question is I'm using AppleTV and wanting to know what the best settings for that is? Currently I have it set to 4K HDR and 4:2:2 I believe or is it 4:4:4... anyway not sure if that's the best setting for it.


Try these settings and modify accordingly:

4K SDR 60hz (will auto change to HDR, when applicable)
Match Content: Range & Frame rate
Chroma: 4:4:4
HDMI: YCbCr

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## aoaaron

Has anyone tried the samsung 3D glasses AND other brands? Are other brands significantly better? not sure whether to splash the cash on the epson glasses. i bought for a cheap price the samsung ones, they work well but I could do with a bit more brightness. 

im having to use high lamp mode for 3D. 

any custom settings ppl use for 3D? 

im using a draper react ALr screen


----------



## fredworld

DaGamePimp said:


> ...Gamma = -2 (or -1 if -2 is too dark for your environment)
> 
> -2 tracks really close to 2.4 while -1 is closer to 2.3
> 
> * Since somebody mentioned using +2 on Gamma I measured it and it tracks from a 1.8 to 2.0....
> 
> - Jason



Before the 1.03 update Gamma+2 gave the best results for my rig (see signature). Now with 1.03 Gamma+1 gives better shadow detail, color saturation and clarity. However, I was under the impression that Gamma 2.4 should be the baseline, but if Gamma -2 tracks at 2.4, as per above quote and I get crushed blacks and poor colors despite adjusting using the Spears & Muncil discs at -2 what might the + Gamma settings be tracking at? Based on the above quote I'm guessing that +1 might be tracking around 2.2??


----------



## gunlife

Almondo99 said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes i have this exact screen. In bright sceens you will notice texture
> 
> 
> 
> What size / viewing distance? Hmm that's disappointing, is it distracting in your opinion?
Click to expand...

About 9'. Yes its very distracting in clouds and snow. Bright white scenes is where it kills me. Saving for a stewart i suppose.. also have a handmade screen using carls newest 4k white zero texture.... fixed all the issues.


----------



## skylarlove1999

DaGamePimp said:


> Here's a very basic starting point (obviously this is from my unit in my room with my gear so YMMV )...
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to push it as far as I could toward dynamic without being crushed or blown out (while making minimal adjustment, thus allowing 1.03 to work its magic).
> 
> This is not as punchy as my personal calibration but that has a bunch of other tweaks that work for my room with my gear.
> 
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema (Medium Lamp / High Speed Auto Iris)
> 
> - If you wish to use High Lamp with HDR it will throw the calibration off a bit but since this is just for fun anyway... have at it.
> 
> 
> 
> Brightness = 45 (this seems to be a good setting all-around... SDR and HDR)
> 
> Contrast = 56 (could go a bit higher but it color shifted beyond this point)
> 
> 
> 
> COLOR TEMP:
> 
> Color Temp = 5 (closest to 6500K post 1.03)
> 
> Skin Tone = 4
> 
> Custom:
> 
> Offset R = 50
> 
> Offset G = 50
> 
> Offset B = 49
> 
> Gain R = 41
> 
> Gain G = 50
> 
> Gain B = 46
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma = -2 (or -1 if -2 is too dark for your environment)
> 
> -2 tracks really close to 2.4 while -1 is closer to 2.3
> 
> 
> 
> * Since somebody mentioned using +2 on Gamma I measured it and it tracks from a 1.8 to 2.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure most of you have tinkered and found settings you'll like more than these but this is a basic CAL (that comes out under dE 3 without diving into the C.M.S (which is almost assured to make things worse by using settings from another units calibration).
> 
> 
> 
> This is taking the media sources out of the equation, it was done via a TPG and not a pattern disc via a specific player (not everyone has a Panasonic 420/820/9000).
> 
> 
> 
> Surely you can't be serious...
> 
> I am serious, and stop calling me Shirley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


Thank you kind sir greatly appreciated I will give them a try this weekend thanks again

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

gunlife said:


> About 9'. Yes its very distracting in clouds and snow. Bright white scenes is where it kills me. Saving for a stewart i suppose.. also have a handmade screen using carls newest 4k white zero texture.... fixed all the issues.


Stewart has had historic price drops. I got a 140 inch Studiotek 130 G4 2:39 screen for a ridiculous price. Let me know via PM if you need any help knowing where to look. I have mine hung today. It is as amazing as the review from Kris Deering said it was. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

skylarlove1999 said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> About 9'. Yes its very distracting in clouds and snow. Bright white scenes is where it kills me. Saving for a stewart i suppose.. also have a handmade screen using carls newest 4k white zero texture.... fixed all the issues.
> 
> 
> 
> Stewart has had historic price drops. I got a 140 inch Studiotek 130 G4 2:39 screen for a ridiculous price. Let me know via PM if you need any help knowing where to look. I have mine hung today. It is as amazing as the review from Kris Deering said it was.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Congrats on the screen! I have seen a few Stewarts! So I know your speaking the truth about the quality.


----------



## skylarlove1999

gunlife said:


> Congrats on the screen! I have seen a few Stewarts! So I know your speaking the truth about the quality.


Thank you . Very kind of you. Historic price drops . Amazing image quality. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## aoaaron

Watched a few scenes from Frozen in 3D and I am blown away. 

God its just a different type of immersion. 

Sadly I'm using an ALR screen which I think is eating into a bit of the brightness. It looks fine in high lamp mode but I don't like the sound. 

I've tried to do a crappy calibration of in the bright room mode to fix a few issues to get it looking ok on medium lamp mode. gamma +2, brightness to 55-60, contrast to 65, just to try and compensate for the glasses which obviously decrease the blackfloor by themselves. 

anyone who hasn't played with 3D please do so.


----------



## HTX^2steve

aoaaron said:


> Has anyone tried the samsung 3D glasses AND other brands? Are other brands significantly better? not sure whether to splash the cash on the epson glasses. i bought for a cheap price the samsung ones, they work well but I could do with a bit more brightness.
> 
> im having to use high lamp mode for 3D.
> 
> any custom settings ppl use for 3D?
> 
> im using a draper react ALr screen


Check some of my posts back as I mentioned which ones I have that work.


----------



## Luminated67

If Gamma -2 is giving you crushed blacks then check out the calibrated HDR settings from projectorreviews and see if they work for you. Their suggested Gamma is 0.


----------



## amdar

GZoomer said:


> What is available for 3D glasses for this projector? Seems like Epson glasses have become a collectors item. Want to watch Prometheus in 3D.


I am using this 3D Glass and Looks good. Bought it in Amazon. 
Rechargeable - Sintron ST07-BT for RF 3D TV, 3D Glasses for Sony, Panasonic, Samsung 3D TV, Epson 3D projector


----------



## aoaaron

HTX^2steve said:


> Check some of my posts back as I mentioned which ones I have that work.


]thanks mate.. struggling to find the post but am looking through them..


----------



## HTX^2steve

aoaaron said:


> ]thanks mate.. struggling to find the post but am looking through them..


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-204.html#post59479858


----------



## ryudoadema

GZoomer said:


> What is available for 3D glasses for this projector? Seems like Epson glasses have become a collectors item. Want to watch Prometheus in 3D.





aoaaron said:


> Has anyone tried the samsung 3D glasses AND other brands? Are other brands significantly better? not sure whether to splash the cash on the epson glasses. i bought for a cheap price the samsung ones, they work well but I could do with a bit more brightness.





amdar said:


> I am using this 3D Glass and Looks good. Bought it in Amazon.
> Rechargeable - Sintron ST07-BT for RF 3D TV, 3D Glasses for Sony, Panasonic, Samsung 3D TV, Epson 3D projector




I have 5 different types of 3d glasses for my 5040 ub.



*Samsung Compatable Edimensional* - They seem to sync, but would not display 3d correctly. I think I tried everything, but I should go try again soon since I just have them sitting unused. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0150KRI68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


*Sintron* - Work fine, but uncomfortable and small fov/lenses https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BW36TXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


*Elikliv* - Very similar to the Sintrons in look and function https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PX1Y63T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


*Epson ELPGS03* - Work great, large fov/lenses, most comfortable, genuine can be had on aliexpress for a reasonable price but takes 1 month + to states -https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_


*XPAND X105-RF-X1* - Got these ones for gf a month ago since the Epson's nose rest got in the way of her glasses. Finally a/b compared them yesterday, and these are my new favorites! Works just as good as the Epsons and just as large fov, very close in comfort, but definitely a bit brighter which adds punch to the picture. It's not at the expense of ghosting/crosstalk either since those are the same b/t glasses. Blocks a good amount of light from the sides as well. Ordered a second pair the other day that arrive tomorrow. Got $10 off used like new too. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFO4XSA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## DaGamePimp

covsound1 said:


> A million thanks. My offsets where really low I will bring them up. I am a noob
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Nah, this stuff is a learning experience for all of us, I am no Kevin Miller. 





fredworld said:


> Before the 1.03 update Gamma+2 gave the best results for my rig (see signature). Now with 1.03 Gamma+1 gives better shadow detail, color saturation and clarity. However, I was under the impression that Gamma 2.4 should be the baseline, but if Gamma -2 tracks at 2.4, as per above quote and I get crushed blacks and poor colors despite adjusting using the Spears & Muncil discs at -2 what might the + Gamma settings be tracking at? Based on the above quote I'm guessing that +1 might be tracking around 2.2??


+1 tracks between 2.0 and 2.2, average is close to 2.1 (keeping in mind this is on my 5050ub). Your crush/color issues could also be source dependent, so many variables.

* Also keep in mind that your HDR slider will vary the EOTF so that plays a large part in the end result. 





skylarlove1999 said:


> Thank you kind sir greatly appreciated I will give them a try this weekend thanks again
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


No worries, best of luck!


- Jason


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> Nah, this stuff is a learning experience for all of us, I am no Kevin Miller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 tracks between 2.0 and 2.2, average is close to 2.1 (keeping in mind this is on my 5050ub). Your crush/color issues could also be source dependent, so many variables.
> 
> 
> 
> * Also keep in mind that your HDR slider will vary the EOTF so that plays a large part in the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No worries, best of luck!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


Speaking of Kevin I do remember after he calibrated my friends zeta tv he did each device separately. Yes i learn everyday from kind folks like you.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

ryudoadema said:


> I have 5 different types of 3d glasses for my 5040 ub.
> 
> 
> 
> *Samsung Compatable Edimensional* - They seem to sync, but would not display 3d correctly. I think I tried everything, but I should go try again soon since I just have them sitting unused. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0150KRI68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> *Sintron* - Work fine, but uncomfortable and small fov/lenses https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BW36TXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> *Elikliv* - Very similar to the Sintrons in look and function https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PX1Y63T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> *Epson ELPGS03* - Work great, large fov/lenses, most comfortable, genuine can be had on aliexpress for a reasonable price but takes 1 month + to states -https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
> 
> 
> *XPAND X105-RF-X1* - Got these ones for gf a month ago since the Epson's nose rest got in the way of her glasses. Finally a/b compared them yesterday, and these are my new favorites! Works just as good as the Epsons and just as large fov, very close in comfort, but definitely a bit brighter which adds punch to the picture. It's not at the expense of ghosting/crosstalk either since those are the same b/t glasses. Blocks a good amount of light from the sides as well. Ordered a second pair the other day that arrive tomorrow. Got $10 off used like new too. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFO4XSA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Do you know if the expand brighter than these.


----------



## aoaaron

ryudoadema said:


> I have 5 different types of 3d glasses for my 5040 ub.
> 
> 
> 
> *Samsung Compatable Edimensional* - They seem to sync, but would not display 3d correctly. I think I tried everything, but I should go try again soon since I just have them sitting unused. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0150KRI68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> *Sintron* - Work fine, but uncomfortable and small fov/lenses https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BW36TXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> *Elikliv* - Very similar to the Sintrons in look and function https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PX1Y63T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> *Epson ELPGS03* - Work great, large fov/lenses, most comfortable, genuine can be had on aliexpress for a reasonable price but takes 1 month + to states -https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
> 
> 
> *XPAND X105-RF-X1* - Got these ones for gf a month ago since the Epson's nose rest got in the way of her glasses. Finally a/b compared them yesterday, and these are my new favorites! Works just as good as the Epsons and just as large fov, very close in comfort, but definitely a bit brighter which adds punch to the picture. It's not at the expense of ghosting/crosstalk either since those are the same b/t glasses. Blocks a good amount of light from the sides as well. Ordered a second pair the other day that arrive tomorrow. Got $10 off used like new too. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFO4XSA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Thank you so much mate! I wish I could track down the XPAND's in the UK!  How much do they go for in the US?


----------



## aoaaron

I wish the HDR slider was available in 3D.. I know it sounds dumb but the It would really help in terms of dialling in the brightness for it as its quite variable !


----------



## Gellert1

I own four pairs of these and don't use anything else. Their quality are top notch and the 3D is perfect every time.

https://www.hi-shock.de/en/rf-pro-gift-set-scarlet-heaven


----------



## ryudoadema

covsound1 said:


> Do you know if the expand brighter than these.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GTHwALyZII


 *I don't, sorry.*





aoaaron said:


> Thank you so much mate! I wish I could track down the XPAND's in the UK!  How much do they go for in the US?


 *Welcome! They are a little under $40 usd new on Amazon right now and ~$30 used like new.*





Gellert said:


> I own four pairs of these and don't use anything else. Their quality are top notch and the 3D is perfect every time.
> 
> https://www.hi-shock.de/en/rf-pro-gift-set-scarlet-heaven


*I have the DLP-link version of those and those ones are indeed nice. Not my favorite due to a shift in color towards the cool temp and no light/vision blockage on the sides, but a close second or third. They were my gf's favorite though. She didn't notice little shifts in color, and they don't get in the way of glasses. My uncle liked them too for the same reason. Not that the function/quality would necessarily be identical between them, but it does show they are a competent 3d glasses producer.*


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> Here's a very basic starting point (obviously this is from my unit in my room with my gear so YMMV )...
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to push it as far as I could toward dynamic without being crushed or blown out (while making minimal adjustment, thus allowing 1.03 to work its magic).
> 
> This is not as punchy as my personal calibration but that has a bunch of other tweaks that work for my room with my gear.
> 
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema (Medium Lamp / High Speed Auto Iris)
> 
> - If you wish to use High Lamp with HDR it will throw the calibration off a bit but since this is just for fun anyway... have at it.
> 
> 
> 
> Brightness = 45 (this seems to be a good setting all-around... SDR and HDR)
> 
> Contrast = 56 (could go a bit higher but it color shifted beyond this point)
> 
> 
> 
> COLOR TEMP:
> 
> Color Temp = 5 (closest to 6500K post 1.03)
> 
> Skin Tone = 4
> 
> Custom:
> 
> Offset R = 50
> 
> Offset G = 50
> 
> Offset B = 49
> 
> Gain R = 41
> 
> Gain G = 50
> 
> Gain B = 46
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma = -2 (or -1 if -2 is too dark for your environment)
> 
> -2 tracks really close to 2.4 while -1 is closer to 2.3
> 
> 
> 
> * Since somebody mentioned using +2 on Gamma I measured it and it tracks from a 1.8 to 2.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure most of you have tinkered and found settings you'll like more than these but this is a basic CAL that comes out under dE 3 without diving into the C.M.S (which is almost assured to make things worse by using settings from another units calibration).
> 
> 
> 
> This is taking the media sources out of the equation, it was done via a TPG and not a pattern disc via a specific player (not everyone has a Panasonic 420/820/9000).
> 
> 
> 
> Surely you can't be serious...
> 
> I am serious, and stop calling me Shirley.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


Thank you so much for taking the time to post these settings. I gave them a try tonight, and it looked really good. It makes me feel better though, that the settings Kevin Miller made for me, definitely look better. I definitely think now, more than ever, that the reason I'm not seeing an improvement after 1.03, like many others have, is simply because Kevin had my 5050 so dialed in, and there really wasn't room for improvement. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Chris Corcoran

I need some things clarified and would really appreciate the input. Im trying to learn calibration and SDR went well. Im starting to understand the basics.

HDR throws me for a major loop, and im getting frustrated. 

From what I know HDR uses bt2020. NO display can do 100% of this color space correctly? We have a color filter, this allows us to hit what exactly? 100% of DCI-P3? Is this a smaller graph INSIDE the entire bt2020 package?

If I calibrated in cinema vs natural how much of a color difference is there? If cinema hits 100% of the dci-p3 chart, does natural hit 80%? 50%? Im trying to figure out if cinema is worth loosing half the lumins over natural, especially with my 138" screen.

Lastly, the HDR slider. We have 16 set poibts. How do I know what to leave it on? Or rather what number so I adjust all my calibration on? And when I do use the slider doesnt it throw off the entire image?

Thanks so much.


----------



## covsound1

Chris Corcoran said:


> I need some things clarified and would really appreciate the input. Im trying to learn calibration and SDR went well. Im starting to understand the basics.
> 
> 
> 
> HDR throws me for a major loop, and im getting frustrated.
> 
> 
> 
> From what I know HDR uses bt2020. NO display can do 100% of this color space correctly? We have a color filter, this allows us to hit what exactly? 100% of DCI-P3? Is this a smaller graph INSIDE the entire bt2020 package?
> 
> 
> 
> If I calibrated in cinema vs natural how much of a color difference is there? If cinema hits 100% of the dci-p3 chart, does natural hit 80%? 50%? Im trying to figure out if cinema is worth loosing half the lumins over natural, especially with my 138" screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, the HDR slider. We have 16 set poibts. How do I know what to leave it on? Or rather what number so I adjust all my calibration on? And when I do use the slider doesnt it throw off the entire image?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so much.


Chris a some of your questions are valid pertaining to the epson 5050, some belong in the calibration section. Trust me I break the rules all the time lol. The standard hdr slider position is 8. And the correct gamma position is negative =2. You're offsets should be as close to the neutral position as possible. A but this is all equipment dependent and can change. As far as yours screen size that is pretty big and you may be better off in natural or my favorite b&w cinema. Cinema is my reference I have seen it do 120 in wide screen with no problem. Before the firmware update the reference black level setting was around 50 now its under that now.Keep working at you will get it.And maybe this noob will be asking you. All the best. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## aoaaron

Has anyone got the Hi-Shock AND the XPAND Glasses that they could compare for 3D?


----------



## Pretorian

aoaaron said:


> Thank you so much mate! I wish I could track down the XPAND's in the UK!  How much do they go for in the US?


I live in Sweden and use XPAND vision 3D Glasses Lite RF with my 6050. I like them. They are light to wear and I feel the image looks great.

https://www.hembiobutiken.se/produkter/tillbehor/3d-glasogon/272070-xpand-3d-glasogon-x105-rf-x1/

In Sweden they are 695 SEK so that is like 60 quid...


----------



## biglen

Alaric said:


> I did a bit of a comparison here
> 
> https://sites.google.com/view/epson-tw9400/home
> 
> 
> 
> All of the glasses create a significant light loss and have some form of color skew.
> 
> 
> 
> My old Xpand have the least loss and skew, but are old, not that comfy and tricky to get hold of if you don't already have a pair. The next best are the Epson's in terms of measurement, lighter, comfier and easy to get hold of. They are however quite expensive and you can't change out the rechargeable battery, though you should get many years of service before they die!
> 
> 
> 
> The cheapest i've found are Samsung, which are very cheap, light and comfy. They don't block light from the edges and are a bit of an odd design.
> 
> 
> 
> All of them have a skew though, so i'd recommend sticking to all one brand and getting a setting calibrated - You can pull over some settings from SDR stuff though and also the inbuilt 1-8 greyscale white patterns work for greyscale calibration, as irritatingly you can't FORCE the pj manually into 3D mode, so needs a special 3D disc to do it manually - I've yet to find a way to get HCFR inbuilt patterns to run in 3D


Here's a comparison of some glasses, that should be helpful, to those of you looking for glasses. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

After the firmware update it seems to be the consensus that Digital Cinema is indeed brighter. Does anyone have a measurement of approximately how many lumens we are now getting in Digital Cinema high lamp and how much brighter it was than before?


----------



## Chris Corcoran

Pretorian said:


> Chris Corcoran said:
> 
> 
> 
> This 1.03 firmware...
> 
> Where do I find it? Epson only has the 1.01 posted for download.
> 
> Does it work on all models/regions 5050 and 6050? Install instructions?
> 
> 
> Thanks, its hard to navigate due to the language. I found something but it says its 1.02? Is there an exact download link and instructions on how install? Thanks so much
> 
> Last but not least what improvements are made?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.epson.se/support?productID=26871#drivers
Click to expand...

Thanks, its hard to navigate due to the language. I found something but it says its 1.02? Is there an exact download link and instructions on how install? Thanks so much


----------



## asolor78

Good day everyone.. been enjoying all the comments and will try out recent calibrations provided for digital cinema, so in updating to 1.03, i can acknowledge a boost in brightness using digital cinema..what i have yet too see is a change log or anything regarding update changed.. does epson ever put that information out?


----------



## Malodium

I picked up some of those cheap samsung 3d glasses from ebay the other day. $15 for two. Threw in The Hobbit in 3D, and.... thought it kinda sucked to be honest. Not the movie.. well I mean the movie does suck, but the overall 3D experience. 



For one thing, it seemed like there was a motion issue sometimes and it would get a bit jittery. I did not dig into the settings much though, perhaps this is fixable. Also, hard to explain but it was like I could not really take in the entire scene. Like anything that wasn't really popping out of the screen was a bit blurry or something. So the 3D items would pop and look ok, but anything else in the scene was tough to focus on and didn't look as good. Weird effect, and obnoxious. Honestly my LG OLED feels like it does better 3D. Maybe because its easier to see everything on a smaller screen? Not sure.


Default brightness wasn't great but I was able to fix that pretty easy by bumping the lamp up to High and even increasing the brightness from there a bit.


No clue if better, more expensive glasses would help, but I think ill stick to 2D for now unless anyone has any suggestions.


----------



## Fox1966

Malodium said:


> I picked up some of those cheap samsung 3d glasses from ebay the other day. $15 for two. Threw in The Hobbit in 3D, and.... thought it kinda sucked to be honest. Not the movie.. well I mean the movie does suck, but the overall 3D experience.
> 
> 
> 
> For one thing, it seemed like there was a motion issue sometimes and it would get a bit jittery. I did not dig into the settings much though, perhaps this is fixable. Also, hard to explain but it was like I could not really take in the entire scene. Like anything that wasn't really popping out of the screen was a bit blurry or something. So the 3D items would pop and look ok, but anything else in the scene was tough to focus on and didn't look as good. Weird effect, and obnoxious. Honestly my LG OLED feels like it does better 3D. Maybe because its easier to see everything on a smaller screen? Not sure.
> 
> 
> Default brightness wasn't great but I was able to fix that pretty easy by bumping the lamp up to High and even increasing the brightness from there a bit.
> 
> 
> No clue if better, more expensive glasses would help, but I think ill stick to 2D for now unless anyone has any suggestions.


Sounds like something is definitely off. The 3D experience on the 5050 is jaw dropping, and I prefer to watch my 3D movies on it over my OLED.


----------



## alangsk

Chris Corcoran said:


> Thanks, its hard to navigate due to the language. I found something but it says its 1.02? Is there an exact download link and instructions on how install? Thanks so much



Go to this site and search for 5050. You will see it is listed multiple times with different firmware versions, but 1.03 is on that page.


https://epson.com/Support/wa00805?u...n=NPS&syl=1&dclid=CMLphZzJ8ukCFZPWTwodPpoBrQ#











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## aoaaron

Fox1966 said:


> Sounds like something is definitely off. The 3D experience on the 5050 is jaw dropping, and I prefer to watch my 3D movies on it over my OLED.




TBH I think an OLED is kind of redundant as IMO 3-D has the side effect of making my 100 inch screen feel small.. wouldnt even want to think that if feels like on a 65 inch or smaller screen.  

totally agree with u that 3D is spectacular but people do need 

a) control light in the room even more strictly than 2D
b) play with the settings a bit (I up contrast to 60, gamma to +1 from -2, medium lamp from eco), 
c) understand that the colors will look different

i find 3D on my epson looks VERY contrasty. blacks are near perfect black in 3D due to the fact that the glasses decrease the black level, clarity is better than 4k, everything is just crystal clear. i don't get cross talk unless its i go above +2 on 3D strength.


----------



## Malodium

aoaaron said:


> TBH I think an OLED is kind of redundant as IMO 3-D has the side effect of making my 100 inch screen feel small.. wouldnt even want to think that if feels like on a 65 inch or smaller screen.
> 
> totally agree with u that 3D is spectacular but people do need
> 
> a) control light in the room even more strictly than 2D
> b) play with the settings a bit (I up contrast to 60, gamma to +1 from -2, medium lamp from eco),
> c) understand that the colors will look different
> 
> i find 3D on my epson looks VERY contrasty. blacks are near perfect black in 3D due to the fact that the glasses decrease the black level, clarity is better than 4k, everything is just crystal clear. i don't get cross talk unless its i go above +2 on 3D strength.





Do you think my choice of glasses is causing issues? I am using the Samsung SSG-5150GB. Maybe The Hobbit doesn't do 3D as well as other movies? I should also try at night too as there is a bit of light in the room during the day. Im sure that didn't help. But yeah it looked kind of terrible to me.
Maybe it's just my eyeballs.


----------



## Brajesh

Hey guys, on 3D quality, when I had my 5040UB, hated the crosstalk and ghosting issues. Tried 3 different units, and while one was slightly better than others, all suffered from the issues. Did Epson address and improve 3D with 5050UB? I have a DLP, a BenQ HT3050, which puts out great 3D, but Epson has the brightness and colors advantages overall.


----------



## noob00224

Brajesh said:


> Hey guys, on 3D quality, when I had my 5040UB, hated the crosstalk and ghosting issues. Tried 3 different units, and while one was slightly better than others, all suffered from the issues. Did Epson address and improve 3D with 5050UB? I have a DLP, a BenQ HT3050, which puts out great 3D, but Epson has the brightness and colors advantages overall.


>>



ryudoadema said:


> I can't help much on the screen side, as I have a pretty cheap 100" Elite 1.1 or 1.2 gain motorized screen that I am happy with. I personally wouldn't want much more gain because I think I can almost see sparkles when I really crank the brightness on the Epson as it is. At least it seems like it to my untrained eyes. A 5040/5050 is kind of my line, where if I were buying a more expensive projector than those- THEN I may consider throwing a grand at a screen. I just don't feel the benefit would outweigh an extra grand towards a better pj. That's just my opinion though.
> 
> I will say that treating the room with darker, light absorbing paint or materials will help increase the perceived brightness and contrast of the projected image. I think it could improve the picture more than a better screen, and at less cost.
> 
> Also if you are looking for more brightness, make sure your projector is as close to the screen as you can comfortably get it (considering noise, view, obstructions etc.) while still being in the right throw range. Projectors lose brightness at further distances while remaining the same size, and it's a decent amount from closest to furthest for these Epsons.
> 
> If you need any settings advice I think the 5040/5050 are close enough that i could help out there (not fine tuned colors etc, but certain 3d settings that can make a big difference). Just let me know or search my previous posts.





ryudoadema said:


> Off the top of my head:
> 
> **3d brightness low*- you can go higher, but at the expense of ghosting/crosstalk. It either of those are bothering you and you need more brightness then increasing gamma or brightness a little, increasing bulb power or changing to dynamic 3d also works. I find *changing gamma* once in a while on a per movie basis works best. If the movie is too dark, increase the gamma by a setting or two at most. If the colors are washed out, but there is plenty of brightness you can adjust the gamma down a little.
> 
> **Auto Iris off*- On also increases ghosting/crosstalk
> 
> *If ghosting/crosstalk is still bothering you you can try turning the *processing to fast* instead of fine. This turns off a bunch of additional enhancements and I don't find it's needed as ghosting/crosstalk is nearly eliminated after the above settings.
> 
> *Try to keep the *image centered in your 3d glasses*. You may notice that there is only ghosting/crosstalk when you are looking from the top or bottom of the glasses or it is worse.
> 
> If I forgot anything I'll try to update next time I turn on the pj.


----------



## Malodium

Oops, I was wrong, I actually have the Samsung SSG-5100GB, not Samsung SSG-5150GB. I wonder if that matters.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Malodium said:


> Oops, I was wrong, I actually have the Samsung SSG-5100GB, not Samsung SSG-5150GB. I wonder if that matters.


I have the same glasses SSG-5100GB and other than adjusting (I am not in front of the pj) but the one that moves the images closer and further apart with respect to your eye and distance...looks great. Watched Alice in Wonderland and 300 both were cool.


----------



## Fox1966

Malodium said:


> Do you think my choice of glasses is causing issues? I am using the Samsung SSG-5150GB. Maybe The Hobbit doesn't do 3D as well as other movies? I should also try at night too as there is a bit of light in the room during the day. Im sure that didn't help. But yeah it looked kind of terrible to me.
> Maybe it's just my eyeballs.


I'm not sure, as I have never tried those glasses. I have the Xpand 3d glasses that others here have mentioned, and they do a great job. Before I got the 5050, I had an Epson 3700 and loved the 3D on it, but the 3D picture on the 5050 is even better. I'm pretty much using default settings in the Dynamic 3D mode, but I turn the Auto Iris off (it can cause a little crosstalk on some movies with dim scenes). With the auto iris off, the 3D image is stunning with no crosstalk, so clear and sharp. I haven't watched the Hobbit 3D on the 5050, but I did watch it on my 3700 and it was great, so I expect it to be even better on the 5050. I'd try getting a different pair of 3d glasses, and turn the auto iris off on 3D mode, and see if that helps. The 3D image is so beautiful and immersive, that it's worth trying a few things to get it right.


----------



## BIC2

Some have mentioned with the firmware 1.03 update, they switched from using the HDR slider on the Panasonic 820 to the slider on the Epson. I presume that means changing the Panasonic from SDR/BT.2020 (auto) to HDR/BT.2020 (auto) so as to re-enable the slider on the Epson? Thanks.


----------



## Nick Woolley

Is there a link where I can download the 1.03 firmware? I cannot for the life of me find anything other than 1.02?


----------



## garnuts

Nick Woolley said:


> Is there a link where I can download the 1.03 firmware? I cannot for the life of me find anything other than 1.02?


For the US site:

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805??...671&cjevent=5d85f85334c911ea81fa03700a24060f#


----------



## Luminated67

BIC2 said:


> Some have mentioned with the firmware 1.03 update, they switched from using the HDR slider on the Panasonic 820 to the slider on the Epson. I presume that means changing the Panasonic from SDR/BT.2020 (auto) to HDR/BT.2020 (auto) so as to re-enable the slider on the Epson? Thanks.


Yeah that’s right. Took this last night from Black Panther with HDR slider set to 7.


----------



## jklow888

Nick Woolley said:


> Is there a link where I can download the 1.03 firmware? I cannot for the life of me find anything other than 1.02?


Go to 9400 Driver Page then click on All link and you will see the the 1.03 download


----------



## Pretorian

aoaaron said:


> TBH I think an OLED is kind of redundant as IMO 3-D has the side effect of making my 100 inch screen feel small.. wouldnt even want to think that if feels like on a 65 inch or smaller screen.
> 
> totally agree with u that 3D is spectacular but people do need
> 
> a) control light in the room even more strictly than 2D
> b) play with the settings a bit (I up contrast to 60, gamma to +1 from -2, medium lamp from eco),
> c) understand that the colors will look different
> 
> i find 3D on my epson looks VERY contrasty. blacks are near perfect black in 3D due to the fact that the glasses decrease the black level, clarity is better than 4k, everything is just crystal clear. i don't get cross talk unless its i go above +2 on 3D strength.



That is a great post. I will look at those settings. 
Cross talk, is that when you see a faint double image of some objects?
I have that all the time but it does not disturb me as long as the movie is good.


----------



## Pretorian

I just watched the UHD version of Deadpool and it looked gret on my 6050/9400.


----------



## Nick Woolley

garnuts said:


> For the US site:
> 
> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805??...671&cjevent=5d85f85334c911ea81fa03700a24060f#


Hmmm, couldn't get my AUS/NZ 9400 model to update....


----------



## armyplace

Shawn Kelly said:


> If we have enough interest we can do better than $4K as a pre-order price with a new lens model with the highest performance available. We just need to know the interest is there. The Panamorph mounting holes and the anamorphic modes for a fixed lens are already in the 6040/6050 Epson models (and earlier models of the series).


Hi Shawn, I'm just flagging my interest in this. Send me a PM if it's going ahead.

Cheers!


----------



## mrdh68

Hi guys,

Just to share with you what was the answer I got from Epson related to the difference of the 1.03 firmware with the previous version:

"The last firmware v.1.03 changes: 
 1) When start up projector with connecting ELPAP12, right half of image become greenish for a moment while displaying Android logo. 2) When reboot Amazon FireTV 4KHDR during connecting the projector, black image may be displayed."

I believe that this is a very simple explanation of what, in fact, the current version offer. I found significant improvement in the image quality, sharpness and brightness in the Digital Cinema mode.


----------



## DaGamePimp

I am working on some new 1.03 calibrations to share (using a different TPG) and I will try to get one posted for Natural as well. 

Should be working on these over the next several days, hopefully they will be of benefit to someone.

I have done 3D calibrations before (3D glasses in front of colorimeter) but they can be a bit tedious and it's been a while so we'll see, no promises. 

- Jason


----------



## skylarlove1999

DaGamePimp said:


> I am working on some new 1.03 calibrations to share (using a different TPG) and I will try to get one posted for Natural as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Should be working on these over the next several days, hopefully they will be of benefit to someone.
> 
> 
> 
> I have done 3D calibrations before (3D glasses in front of colorimeter) but they can be a bit tedious and it's been a while so we'll see, no promises.
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


Thank you as always for putting in the time and effort on calibrating and your willingness to share. Happy Friday.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

A few bugs I have experienced with this firmware which frustrate me getting the best picture. I have 700hrs on the lamp, TW9400 Australian firmware / unit. 

- green is tilted towards yellow both in SDR and HDR. It’s not visible with actual material but the errors are large enough at maximum saturation that greens turn a little neon
when displaying patterns. I didn’t have this previously. 

- The dynamic iris and lamp dimming is a bit too aggressive in Dynamic mode (which I normally calibrate to get max light output) and it got to a point that I turned it off tonight while watching a movie as I was getting irritated. I like the iris being fast but the lamp dimming needs to be cut back a little as it can’t keep up then takes ages to warm up again. Ugh! 

Hopefully Epson reads these forums but I’ll send them a message with all the issues once I’m done experimenting further. 

I’ll say this tho... definitely looks better overall than before. Just minor issues to resolve.


----------



## rollon1980

Just to add, the iris / lamp modulation issue only happens on high lamp. Low and medium lamp modes keep up fine! I think a different modulation should be used in high lamp: aggressive iris, and not letting the lamp modulate down to eco so fast. Grrr!


----------



## aoaaron

Pretorian said:


> That is a great post. I will look at those settings.
> Cross talk, is that when you see a faint double image of some objects?
> I have that all the time but it does not disturb me as long as the movie is good.



Yes its very rare on the 9400 IMO. not distracting from the film at all but if ur looking for imperfections you will find them from time to time (i cant help but look for them).


----------



## aoaaron

Pretorian said:


> That is a great post. I will look at those settings.
> Cross talk, is that when you see a faint double image of some objects?
> I have that all the time but it does not disturb me as long as the movie is good.





DaGamePimp said:


> I am working on some new 1.03 calibrations to share (using a different TPG) and I will try to get one posted for Natural as well.
> 
> Should be working on these over the next several days, hopefully they will be of benefit to someone.
> 
> I have done 3D calibrations before (3D glasses in front of colorimeter) but they can be a bit tedious and it's been a while so we'll see, no promises.
> 
> - Jason


Thank you so much! cant wait for the SDR/HDR settings. 

I know this sounds contradictory for the term calibration but for 3D rather then try to strictly calibrate, can you release/design settings which aim to maximise the brightness of the picture as that seems to be 3-D's limiting feature, aka make the whites whiter, make the colours luminate a little more to make up for the glasses.

everyones setups for 3D will be different (screen/alr/glasses used) but 3D persistently presents that same issue.. that we need brightness (especially if people want to attempt to watch in eco mode). I don't understand colour enough to do this outside of putting game to +2 and contrast up a bit.. but someone as skilled as urself could probably do this easily so i would appreciate it.


----------



## Bob Benson

I just picked up a 5050ub from Amazon earlier this week to replace my beloved Epson 5020ub. 

Swapping out the two projectors was very smooth and I really appreciate the upgrade of the powered lens for this.

I already preferred watching movies on the 5020 to my living room's 65 inch HDR Samsung. But now I think the projector is the clear winner and can't see any noticeable resolution differences from normal viewing distances.

I have a pretty thrown together budget setup (apart from the 5050) but I am very well light controlled with dark matte walls and ceilings and the first few feet treated with black felt.

I paired it with a Panasonic 420 UHD player. 

Results so far have been awesome. I have a 1 year old at home so I have mostly only been able to watch bits and pieces of discs I picked up.

I watched Fury Road and part of John Wick 3 in HDR and was blown away. I watched a lot of Endgame and was less impressed, but I read that HDR for that got low marks from a lot of people.

I installed a new cabernet cable for the run from my Onkyo receiver to the display and was able to get the HDR signal without too much fuss.

I have done no calibration and no adjustment of the picture settings yet apart from adjusting the lamp power and adjusting the HDR setting.

Oh and I have seen people asking about 3D. I have an extensive 3D collection and am a big fan though haven't watched as much lately due to lack of new US titles.

I tested Gravity in high lamp 3D cinema medium 3D brightness. I got noticeably improved results from my 5020. I think the cross talk is only a little better; but the brightness is much improved which I think helps make it less noticeable. Anyway Gravity looked great. I have accurate colors and bright picture where as with the 5020 I would have to put it in dynamic which looks very off to compensate for lack of brightness.

Only disappointment was I checked out some more challenging material and the cross talk was only a little better; though again brightness and color where improved which made the viewing more pleasant. This was my copy of the Walk which has great 3D but some more cross talk prone night scenes before the big finale.

I'll try to take some screenshots soon to add since I always appreciate when others do it.


----------



## ryudoadema

Bob Benson said:


> I tested Gravity in high lamp 3D cinema medium 3D brightness. I got noticeably improved results from my 5020. I think the cross talk is only a little better; but the brightness is much improved which I think helps make it less noticeable. Anyway Gravity looked great. I have accurate colors and bright picture where as with the 5020 I would have to put it in dynamic which looks very off to compensate for lack of brightness.
> 
> Only disappointment was I checked out some more challenging material and the cross talk was only a little better; though again brightness and color where improved which made the viewing more pleasant. This was my copy of the Walk which has great 3D but some more cross talk prone night scenes before the big finale.



Posted a few times recently already, but in case you missed it.
To minimize crosstalk...
*
3D Brightness = Low
**Dynamic Iris = Off*

Try to *watch from the center of the glasses*, as looking through them at an angle or on the sides can contribute a little to crosstalk.


Not sure on this one, but crosstalk may get better as the projector warms up a bit. Doesn't matter for me as the first two settings above nearly eliminates it anyway.


----------



## termite

ryudoadema said:


> Posted a few times recently already, but in case you missed it.
> To minimize crosstalk...
> *
> 3D Brightness = Low
> **Dynamic Iris = Off*
> 
> Try to *watch from the center of the glasses*, as looking through them at an angle or on the sides can contribute a little to crosstalk.
> 
> 
> Not sure on this one, but crosstalk may get better as the projector warms up a bit. Doesn't matter for me as the first two settings above nearly eliminates it anyway.


It makes sense to turn off Dynamic Iris to OFF for 3D. Trying to understand how "3D Brightness = Low" is helping to reduce crosstalk.
Perhaps someone can clarify ..


----------



## ryudoadema

termite said:


> It makes sense to turn off Dynamic Iris to OFF for 3D. Trying to understand how "3D Brightness = Low" is helping to reduce crosstalk.
> Perhaps someone can clarify ..


I could be wrong, but I think the medium and high setting sync the lenses to each stay open a tiny bit longer. That allows more light through, but also allows each eye to see a little more of the other eyes frame.

Either way, it's an easy test to show that it works. Just watch something in 3D brightness high, pause on some crosstalk, and switch to 3D brightness low.


----------



## Bob Benson

I appreciate the effort to help. I'm still playing around with it. I was more offering my impression then trying to look for solution.

I was aware that 3d brightness to its lowest setting reduces crosstalk. But then you lose brightness because as was previously said the glasses are staying closed longer which lets less light in.

I'm not convinced though that turning off the iris setting will help. Doesn't leaving the dynamic iris enabled add brightness? I thought the main benefit to disabling it was because the closing and opening of the iris can be noticeable and distracting.


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> A few bugs I have experienced with this firmware which frustrate me getting the best picture. I have 700hrs on the lamp, TW9400 Australian firmware / unit.
> 
> 
> 
> - green is tilted towards yellow both in SDR and HDR. It’s not visible with actual material but the errors are large enough at maximum saturation that greens turn a little neon
> 
> when displaying patterns. I didn’t have this previously.
> 
> 
> 
> - The dynamic iris and lamp dimming is a bit too aggressive in Dynamic mode (which I normally calibrate to get max light output) and it got to a point that I turned it off tonight while watching a movie as I was getting irritated. I like the iris being fast but the lamp dimming needs to be cut back a little as it can’t keep up then takes ages to warm up again. Ugh!
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully Epson reads these forums but I’ll send them a message with all the issues once I’m done experimenting further.
> 
> 
> 
> I’ll say this tho... definitely looks better overall than before. Just minor issues to resolve.


Very interesting I have notice a little of this electric look. And I compensated by turning down the saturation down a little bit. I will still I take this over the old firmware any day of the week.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## aoaaron

For 3D, what setting do you guys have the '3D' strength at. I have mine at +1/2 for some films but I've noticed if I put it to -1 or -2, it basically eliminates all crosstalk. 

This is on a 95 inch screen from like 2.8M away. 



Anyone else managed to eliminate cross talk completely? (btw this is VERY subtle cross talk which doesn't really affect the experience at all).

The 3D on this is glorious. 3D at night, medium lamp, house of magic is PHENOMENAL. I blasted it at high lamp mode for a bit and it looked even better.


----------



## Bob Benson

I think I have mine at 1, I think thats what it defaults to when you set the screen size to 120. I believe 0 really should be the most neutral for cross talk. I believe -1 or lower may introduce cross talk in other scenes.


----------



## ryudoadema

aoaaron said:


> For 3D, what setting do you guys have the '3D' strength at. I have mine at +1/2 for some films but I've noticed if I put it to -1 or -2, it basically eliminates all crosstalk.
> Anyone else managed to eliminate cross talk completely? (btw this is VERY subtle cross talk which doesn't really affect the experience at all).
> The 3D on this is glorious. 3D at night, medium lamp, house of magic is PHENOMENAL. I blasted it at high lamp mode for a bit and it looked even better.





Bob Benson said:


> I think I have mine at 1, I think thats what it defaults to when you set the screen size to 120. I believe 0 really should be the most neutral for cross talk. I believe -1 or lower may introduce cross talk in other scenes.


Usually 0 or + 1. All it does is separate everything more or less by the same amount. So no extra separation between layers, just everything pushed back into or out of the screen equally.


This can have the effect of eliminating or adding crosstalk on a per layer basis. It may get rid of crosstalk on one layer, but add it to another.


It's also possible to help get rid of crosstalk on one problem layer, and the movie doesn't have much of a problem on other layers so it could be overall beneficial. Or it could have the opposite effect and be detrimental overall.


I find 0 or +1 to be a good middle ground for most movies. Honestly, probably more than half of the 3d movies I watch I only notice any crosstalk if I move my head up or down too much and look out of the edges of the glasses. And I'm super sensitive to it. I was actually surprised to see one tiny hint of it in one scene in Noah for the first time in quite a few movies.


----------



## DaGamePimp

aoaaron said:


> Thank you so much! cant wait for the SDR/HDR settings.
> 
> I know this sounds contradictory for the term calibration but for 3D rather then try to strictly calibrate, can you release/design settings which aim to maximise the brightness of the picture as that seems to be 3-D's limiting feature, aka make the whites whiter, make the colours luminate a little more to make up for the glasses.
> 
> everyones setups for 3D will be different (screen/alr/glasses used) but 3D persistently presents that same issue.. that we need brightness (especially if people want to attempt to watch in eco mode). I don't understand colour enough to do this outside of putting game to +2 and contrast up a bit.. but someone as skilled as urself could probably do this easily so i would appreciate it.



Indeed, few would like the end result of a proper SDR calibration for 3D on all but the brightest of displays.

The goal with 3D is to get it more accurate (semi-accurate) while maintaining as much light/color output as possible. 

- Jason


----------



## Peter Bendevis

I'm curious if anyone has ever done a contrast chart for the 5050/6050 (or even a 5040/6040) against %adl like this:









I'm just curious how it stacks up to the JVCs/Sonys across the the ADL chart.


----------



## sddawson

This is probably going to open a can of worms, but here goes...

I thought I’d try to quantify any differences in the 1.03 firmware. I’m not a calibrator, and my projector has not been calibrated, beyond using proper SDR and HDR patterns to set things like contrast and brightness. I have a Panasonic UB820, usually set to output HDR using the optimiser, with the target display set to the mid level of 1,000 nits. I‘ve done this on the assumption that most Apple TV HDR is also 1,000 nits, and I therefor shouldn’t have to muck with the Epson HDR slider. I usually run on Natural, high lamp because I have a 135” 16:9 screen and need all the light. Even Natural high lamp only gets me 100 nits, apparently just enough for decent HDR. 

I have about 230 hours on the lamp, and was a bit alarmed that my maximum nit level is down about 20% from new, with mostly high lamp use. Anyone know if this is about right?

I am armed solely with a light meter and a sound level meter. I thought I’d pick a couple of HDR scenes and measure the brightness levels of a couple of bright and dark details pre and post the update. I used these scenes:

1. Lucy at 37:45. I love this scene for the way the neon lights really pop. I measured the yellow neon light at the left and a dark area on one of the roller doors.

2. Deadpool at 6:37. The sky in this scene is good for checking detail. I measured a bright cloud just above his head, and a dark part of his head.

I did the measurements in low and high lamp, Natural and Digital Cinema. I also took dB readings of the fan noise from just in front on the front vent.

The results? Pretty meh I think:

Low lamp Natural seemed to show a slight boost in brightness. 
Low lamp Digital Cinema was about the same, with dark areas maybe a touch darker, if anything.
High lamp Natural about the same, with dark areas maybe a touch darker, if anything.
High lamp Digital Cinema about the same, with dark areas maybe a touch darker, if anything.

In all cases the dB level of the fan was unchanged.

Take from this what you will! It’s pretty unscientific, and I wish I’d taken some more readings of mid level scenes. If there is a big improvement, maybe it’s there, not that anything has jumped out at me. I have the Spears & Munsil benchmark disc. Going entirely from memory, I think its contrast pattern shows more blinking squares than before the update, which could indicate better tone mapping, but I can’t be sure what it was like before.

I’d also like to address the theory that turning off the optimiser in the Panasonic is the thing to do now. I have to disagree with that one, I’m afraid. With the S&M disc, you can put up a contrast pattern at 1,000 nits and at 4,000 nits. At 1000 nits, I can see levels 627 to about 719 (most of them). The optimiser makes no difference, which is to be expected, since there's nothing to optimise. At 4000 nits, I can see 759 to about 846 with the optimiser on (although the patches are lighter than with 1000 nits, bunt it’s still a lot of them). With the optimiser off, I can only see from 759 to about 794. In other words, turning the optimiser off with 4,000 nit content just results in blown out detail, which is what I would have expected. To get the squares back, you have to adjust the slider by about 4 notches, which just darkens the picture. For me, this is born out when looking at something like explosions in Mad Max Fury Road. With the optimiser off, they lose detail and colour.

Anyway, just my 2c worth. Great projector no matter what!


----------



## rollon1980

Ok, guys. I have done a recalibration and checked it against my LG OLED that’s been calibrated to an inch of its life and it perceptually matches the OLED. 

The calibration is done in the following way (if anyone cares to repeat it on their unit):

1. Select dynamic pic mode
2. Leave the 2-point grayscale control at default
3. Calibrate grayscale using 8-point grayscale control to D65
4. Calibrate gamut to P3 within BT2020. Note that green and cyan will run out before reaching point. DO NOT overdrive controls trying to reach points beyond 50% stimulus. It can cause artefacts. Use patterns to verify a good green and cyan tracking instead! Same applies for the hue of green if yours is a bit tilted towards yellow like mine. 
5. Pull the offset controls down 1 or 2 clicks (depending on calibration aim). Remember there are two ways to calibrate near black and top end in HDR: try and tone map OR cut off the range the display is unable to display. Both are valid. Sony OLEDs cut stuff off, LG tone maps. I recommend a compromise here for near black. 
6. Calibrate near-black gamma using a visual match to a calibrated display or with material you are familiar with.
7. Now go back into the 8-point greyscale control and zero out the 8th point max / max brightness point! Why? Because anything between 7 and 8 is likely used for highlights and colour accuracy here isn’t as critical. Your eyes won’t be very sensitive to the errors here and saturated colours are highly unlikely to be in this range. As an alternative, you can measure the errors and put back some green and blue energy and visually verify by comparing between the perfect greyscale and the one with the errors at greyscale point 8. Adding this energy back will allow highlights to pop!

And now for the settings that I actually got to on my unit!
Dynamic HDR

picture mode: dynamic
Color temp: 7
Skin tone: 4
Custom color temp:
Offset R: 49
Offset G: 49
Offset B: 49
(Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
Gain R: 50
Gain G: 50
Gain B: 50

Grayscale:
8 0:0:0
7 24:-25:0
6 11:-15:0
5 6:-10:0
4 4:-6:0
3 2:-4:0
2 0:-1:1
1 0:0:0

Gamma: custom
Custom points:
1st from left default
2nd from left: -7
3rd from left: -2


RGBCMY:
R: 60:37:48
G: 55:35:45
B:60:34:43
C: 0:45:13
M: 60:49:33
Y: 58:50:25

High Lamp / medium lamp works too but calibration was done under high lamp, 

HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here. 

Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)

Enjoy!


----------



## rollon1980

A few more things to add:

If you want the absolute 100% correct tone map and colours at all times and you don’t have full light control or you have an ALR screen that can offset some of the slightly lifted black floor, try turning off the auto iris! You will get a brighter image overall and it will be more accurate too. 

Also when calibrating the unit, turn the auto-iris off and put it into the lamp mode you will aim to use. I think this goes without saying but I know some might be starting out with calibration so just in case...


----------



## rollon1980

For even more light output, you can increase contrast to +10. It will cut less off the top end than the previous firmware.


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980,

I needed a break from calibrating and have yet to mess with Dynamic mode so I plugged in your numbers and while it definitely tamed it a good bit our units are significantly different.

I let it run through a read and had an average dE of 14, which is better than where it would have landed OotB (it was a hideous mess). 

Unfortunately the lamp flicker/pump from Dynamic mode is a let down, maybe they will tweak that in the next firmware. 

Dynamic could be a fun mode for daytime viewing or gaming if they can reduce the lamp flicker/pumping, it's not fast enough.

Thanks for the numbers, now you motivated me to at least see if I can tame the (Dynamic) beast. 

I would encourage others to give them a shot and see what fun there is to be had with that much lumen output. 

* I had some animation in when first viewing the settings (so that I could wear my sunglasses inside ) and when I changed over to "Ready Player One" the image went crazy. The image shifted purple and had major artifacts so I stopped the movie and played something else, it was still there. I turned the player off and back on, still there. It was not until I switched back to Digital Cinema that it went away. I have no idea what happened but it is the first error of any kind that I have had with this unit. Coincidental I'm sure but it still freaked me out for a minute, probably one of those random bizarre HDMI handshake issues. 

** Dynamic is crazy for gaming, Borderlands 3 is  but now my eyes hurt. 

- Jason


----------



## noob00224

Peter Bendevis said:


> I'm curious if anyone has ever done a contrast chart for the 5050/6050 (or even a 5040/6040) against %adl like this:
> 
> I'm just curious how it stacks up to the JVCs/Sonys across the the ADL chart.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...ors-anticipation-thread-276.html#post57050308

https://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/



sddawson said:


> I have about 230 hours on the lamp, and was a bit alarmed that my maximum nit level is down about 20% from new, with mostly high lamp use. Anyone know if this is about right?


Lamps loose ~25% of brightness in the first 500h. It's normal.


----------



## sddawson

noob00224 said:


> Lamps loose ~25% of brightness in the first 500h. It's normal.


Thanks for that!


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980,
> 
> I needed a break from calibrating and have yet to mess with Dynamic mode so I plugged in your numbers and while it definitely tamed it a good bit our units are significantly different.
> 
> I let it run through a read and had an average dE of 14, which is better than where it would have landed OotB (it was a hideous mess).
> 
> Unfortunately the lamp flicker/pump from Dynamic mode is a let down, maybe they will tweak that in the next firmware.
> 
> Dynamic could be a fun mode for daytime viewing or gaming if they can reduce the lamp flicker/pumping, it's not fast enough.
> 
> Thanks for the numbers, now you motivated me to at least see if I can tame the (Dynamic) beast. /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif
> 
> I would encourage others to give them a shot and see what fun there is to be had with that much lumen output. /forum/images/smilies/cool.gif
> 
> * I had some animation in when first viewing the settings (so that I could wear my sunglasses inside /forum/images/smilies/cool.gif) and when I changed over to "Ready Player One" the image went crazy. The image shifted purple and had major artifacts so I stopped the movie and played something else, it was still there. I turned the player off and back on, still there. It was not until I switched back to Digital Cinema that it went away. I have no idea what happened but it is the first error of any kind that I have had with this unit. Coincidental I'm sure but it still freaked me out for a minute, probably one of those random bizarre HDMI handshake issues. /forum/images/smilies/redface.gif
> 
> - Jason


Haha! That sounds bad with the errors! Thx for trying it. ))

I have a big screen and I don’t like using the higher HDR slider settings (1-3) hence wanting max light output and putting the slider between 5-8 depending on movie. 

Yes, dynamic iris on fast mode is unbearable in dynamic mode. Normal iris after the lamp warmed up for a few mins is fine. However, I have had artefacts from normal iris too in one instance when it got its titties in a twist! They do need to fix it. 

Btw, I noticed something else on my unit. Putting the contrast to +10 fixes some of the desaturation at lower IREs and actually results in a lot less blooming of highlights than with previous firmware so it’s an option now. I prefer it when using HDR slider 4-8. At lower slider settings (1-3), the desaturation at lower IRESs isn’t as noticeable / an issue.


----------



## covsound1

sddawson said:


> This is probably going to open a can of worms, but here goes...
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I’d try to quantify any differences in the 1.03 firmware. I’m not a calibrator, and my projector has not been calibrated, beyond using proper SDR and HDR patterns to set things like contrast and brightness. I have a Panasonic UB820, usually set to output HDR using the optimiser, with the target display set to the mid level of 1,000 nits. I‘ve done this on the assumption that most Apple TV HDR is also 1,000 nits, and I therefor shouldn’t have to muck with the Epson HDR slider. I usually run on Natural, high lamp because I have a 135” 16:9 screen and need all the light. Even Natural high lamp only gets me 100 nits, apparently just enough for decent HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I have about 230 hours on the lamp, and was a bit alarmed that my maximum nit level is down about 20% from new, with mostly high lamp use. Anyone know if this is about right?
> 
> 
> 
> I am armed solely with a light meter and a sound level meter. I thought I’d pick a couple of HDR scenes and measure the brightness levels of a couple of bright and dark details pre and post the update. I used these scenes:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Lucy at 37:45. I love this scene for the way the neon lights really pop. I measured the yellow neon light at the left and a dark area on one of the roller doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Deadpool at 6:37. The sky in this scene is good for checking detail. I measured a bright cloud just above his head, and a dark part of his head.
> 
> 
> 
> I did the measurements in low and high lamp, Natural and Digital Cinema. I also took dB readings of the fan noise from just in front on the front vent.
> 
> 
> 
> The results? Pretty meh I think:
> 
> 
> 
> Low lamp Natural seemed to show a slight boost in brightness.
> 
> Low lamp Digital Cinema was about the same, with dark areas maybe a touch darker, if anything.
> 
> High lamp Natural about the same, with dark areas maybe a touch darker, if anything.
> 
> High lamp Digital Cinema about the same, with dark areas maybe a touch darker, if anything.
> 
> 
> 
> In all cases the dB level of the fan was unchanged.
> 
> 
> 
> Take from this what you will! It’s pretty unscientific, and I wish I’d taken some more readings of mid level scenes. If there is a big improvement, maybe it’s there, not that anything has jumped out at me. I have the Spears & Munsil benchmark disc. Going entirely from memory, I think its contrast pattern shows more blinking squares than before the update, which could indicate better tone mapping, but I can’t be sure what it was like before.
> 
> 
> 
> I’d also like to address the theory that turning off the optimiser in the Panasonic is the thing to do now. I have to disagree with that one, I’m afraid. With the S&M disc, you can put up a contrast pattern at 1,000 nits and at 4,000 nits. At 1000 nits, I can see levels 627 to about 719 (most of them). The optimiser makes no difference, which is to be expected, since there's nothing to optimise. At 4000 nits, I can see 759 to about 846 with the optimiser on (although the patches are lighter than with 1000 nits, bunt it’s still a lot of them). With the optimiser off, I can only see from 759 to about 794. In other words, turning the optimiser off with 4,000 nit content just results in blown out detail, which is what I would have expected. To get the squares back, you have to adjust the slider by about 4 notches, which just darkens the picture. For me, this is born out when looking at something like explosions in Mad Max Fury Road. With the optimiser off, they lose detail and colour.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, just my 2c worth. Great projector no matter what!


 OK to open up worms. That is what the forum is for. HDR is more than high lights try the movie 1917 both ways (high lcd mode and projector mode). When you watch it in projected mode you be looking at greens all day. A good picture but boring. In super high lcd mode no help night and day difference green does not dominate your movie. Some members have their machines calibrated to match what the panny is doing in projector mode.I think this is the only way to do this .I would love to hear your opinion after you try this. I am just a noob and can only talk about what I see with my eyes.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> Ok, guys. I have done a recalibration and checked it against my LG OLED that’s been calibrated to an inch of its life and it perceptually matches the OLED.
> 
> 
> 
> The calibration is done in the following way (if anyone cares to repeat it on their unit):
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Select dynamic pic mode
> 
> 2. Leave the 2-point grayscale control at default
> 
> 3. Calibrate grayscale using 8-point grayscale control to D65
> 
> 4. Calibrate gamut to P3 within BT2020. Note that green and cyan will run out before reaching point. DO NOT overdrive controls trying to reach points beyond 50% stimulus. It can cause artefacts. Use patterns to verify a good green and cyan tracking instead! Same applies for the hue of green if yours is a bit tilted towards yellow like mine.
> 
> 5. Pull the offset controls down 1 or 2 clicks (depending on calibration aim). Remember there are two ways to calibrate near black and top end in HDR: try and tone map OR cut off the range the display is unable to display. Both are valid. Sony OLEDs cut stuff off, LG tone maps. I recommend a compromise here for near black.
> 
> 6. Calibrate near-black gamma using a visual match to a calibrated display or with material you are familiar with.
> 
> 7. Now go back into the 8-point greyscale control and zero out the 8th point max / max brightness point! Why? Because anything between 7 and 8 is likely used for highlights and colour accuracy here isn’t as critical. Your eyes won’t be very sensitive to the errors here and saturated colours are highly unlikely to be in this range. As an alternative, you can measure the errors and put back some green and blue energy and visually verify by comparing between the perfect greyscale and the one with the errors at greyscale point 8. Adding this energy back will allow highlights to pop!
> 
> 
> 
> And now for the settings that I actually got to on my unit!
> 
> Dynamic HDR
> 
> 
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> 
> Color temp: 7
> 
> Skin tone: 4
> 
> Custom color temp:
> 
> Offset R: 49
> 
> Offset G: 49
> 
> Offset B: 49
> 
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> 
> Gain R: 50
> 
> Gain G: 50
> 
> Gain B: 50
> 
> 
> 
> Grayscale:
> 
> 8 0:0:0
> 
> 7 24:-25:0
> 
> 6 11:-15:0
> 
> 5 6:-10:0
> 
> 4 4:-6:0
> 
> 3 2:-4:0
> 
> 2 0:-1:1
> 
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma: custom
> 
> Custom points:
> 
> 1st from left default
> 
> 2nd from left: -7
> 
> 3rd from left: -2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> 
> R: 60:37:48
> 
> G: 55:35:45
> 
> B:60:34:43
> 
> C: 0:45:13
> 
> M: 60:49:33
> 
> Y: 58:50:25
> 
> 
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too but calibration was done under high lamp,
> 
> 
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> 
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!


Glad to see you back. Wanted to thank you on taking time to talk about calibration. Between you and DaGamePimp is it Christmas already!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, guys. I have done a recalibration and checked it against my LG OLED thatâ€™️s been calibrated to an inch of its life and it perceptually matches the OLED.
> 
> 
> 
> The calibration is done in the following way (if anyone cares to repeat it on their unit):
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Select dynamic pic mode
> 
> 2. Leave the 2-point grayscale control at default
> 
> 3. Calibrate grayscale using 8-point grayscale control to D65
> 
> 4. Calibrate gamut to P3 within BT2020. Note that green and cyan will run out before reaching point. DO NOT overdrive controls trying to reach points beyond 50% stimulus. It can cause artefacts. Use patterns to verify a good green and cyan tracking instead! Same applies for the hue of green if yours is a bit tilted towards yellow like mine.
> 
> 5. Pull the offset controls down 1 or 2 clicks (depending on calibration aim). Remember there are two ways to calibrate near black and top end in HDR: try and tone map OR cut off the range the display is unable to display. Both are valid. Sony OLEDs cut stuff off, LG tone maps. I recommend a compromise here for near black.
> 
> 6. Calibrate near-black gamma using a visual match to a calibrated display or with material you are familiar with.
> 
> 7. Now go back into the 8-point greyscale control and zero out the 8th point max / max brightness point! Why? Because anything between 7 and 8 is likely used for highlights and colour accuracy here isnâ€™️t as critical. Your eyes wonâ€™️t be very sensitive to the errors here and saturated colours are highly unlikely to be in this range. As an alternative, you can measure the errors and put back some green and blue energy and visually verify by comparing between the perfect greyscale and the one with the errors at greyscale point 8. Adding this energy back will allow highlights to pop!
> 
> 
> 
> And now for the settings that I actually got to on my unit!
> 
> Dynamic HDR
> 
> 
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> 
> Color temp: 7
> 
> Skin tone: 4
> 
> Custom color temp:
> 
> Offset R: 49
> 
> Offset G: 49
> 
> Offset B: 49
> 
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> 
> Gain R: 50
> 
> Gain G: 50
> 
> Gain B: 50
> 
> 
> 
> Grayscale:
> 
> 8 0:0:0
> 
> 7 24:-25:0
> 
> 6 11:-15:0
> 
> 5 6:-10:0
> 
> 4 4:-6:0
> 
> 3 2:-4:0
> 
> 2 0👎1
> 
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> 
> 
> Gamma: custom
> 
> Custom points:
> 
> 1st from left default
> 
> 2nd from left: -7
> 
> 3rd from left: -2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> 
> R: 60:37:48
> 
> G: 55:35:45
> 
> B:60:34:43
> 
> 😄 0:45:13
> 
> M: 60:49:33
> 
> Y: 58:50:25
> 
> 
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too but calibration was done under high lamp,
> 
> 
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> 
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see you back. Wanted to thank you on taking time to talk about calibration. Between you and DaGamePimp is it Christmas already!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Aww, thx. That’s very kind. We are here to help! I don’t have heaps of time during the week, though hence not around. 🙂


----------



## biglen

sddawson said:


> This is probably going to open a can of worms, but here goes...
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I’d try to quantify any differences in the 1.03 firmware. I’m not a calibrator, and my projector has not been calibrated, beyond using proper SDR and HDR patterns to set things like contrast and brightness. I have a Panasonic UB820, usually set to output HDR using the optimiser, with the target display set to the mid level of 1,000 nits. I‘ve done this on the assumption that most Apple TV HDR is also 1,000 nits, and I therefor shouldn’t have to muck with the Epson HDR slider. I usually run on Natural, high lamp because I have a 135” 16:9 screen and need all the light. Even Natural high lamp only gets me 100 nits, apparently just enough for decent HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> I have about 230 hours on the lamp, and was a bit alarmed that my maximum nit level is down about 20% from new, with mostly high lamp use. Anyone know if this is about right?
> 
> 
> 
> I am armed solely with a light meter and a sound level meter. I thought I’d pick a couple of HDR scenes and measure the brightness levels of a couple of bright and dark details pre and post the update. I used these scenes:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Lucy at 37:45. I love this scene for the way the neon lights really pop. I measured the yellow neon light at the left and a dark area on one of the roller doors.
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Deadpool at 6:37. The sky in this scene is good for checking detail. I measured a bright cloud just above his head, and a dark part of his head.
> 
> 
> 
> I did the measurements in low and high lamp, Natural and Digital Cinema. I also took dB readings of the fan noise from just in front on the front vent.
> 
> 
> 
> The results? Pretty meh I think:
> 
> 
> 
> Low lamp Natural seemed to show a slight boost in brightness.
> 
> Low lamp Digital Cinema was about the same, with dark areas maybe a touch darker, if anything.
> 
> High lamp Natural about the same, with dark areas maybe a touch darker, if anything.
> 
> High lamp Digital Cinema about the same, with dark areas maybe a touch darker, if anything.
> 
> 
> 
> In all cases the dB level of the fan was unchanged.
> 
> 
> 
> Take from this what you will! It’s pretty unscientific, and I wish I’d taken some more readings of mid level scenes. If there is a big improvement, maybe it’s there, not that anything has jumped out at me. I have the Spears & Munsil benchmark disc. Going entirely from memory, I think its contrast pattern shows more blinking squares than before the update, which could indicate better tone mapping, but I can’t be sure what it was like before.
> 
> 
> 
> I’d also like to address the theory that turning off the optimiser in the Panasonic is the thing to do now. I have to disagree with that one, I’m afraid. With the S&M disc, you can put up a contrast pattern at 1,000 nits and at 4,000 nits. At 1000 nits, I can see levels 627 to about 719 (most of them). The optimiser makes no difference, which is to be expected, since there's nothing to optimise. At 4000 nits, I can see 759 to about 846 with the optimiser on (although the patches are lighter than with 1000 nits, bunt it’s still a lot of them). With the optimiser off, I can only see from 759 to about 794. In other words, turning the optimiser off with 4,000 nit content just results in blown out detail, which is what I would have expected. To get the squares back, you have to adjust the slider by about 4 notches, which just darkens the picture. For me, this is born out when looking at something like explosions in Mad Max Fury Road. With the optimiser off, they lose detail and colour.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, just my 2c worth. Great projector no matter what!


You're not alone. I don't know if you saw my earlier posts, but my eyes aren't telling me anything changed. Like you said, if anything, it might be a tad darker for me. I've been reading that some people have their slider on the projector, set to 8. I normally keep mine on 5, so I thought I'd give 8 a try. 8 is way too dark for me, and my room is 100% pitch black. I can't even see my hands in front of my face, when everything is off. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980,
> 
> 
> 
> I needed a break from calibrating and have yet to mess with Dynamic mode so I plugged in your numbers and while it definitely tamed it a good bit our units are significantly different.
> 
> 
> 
> I let it run through a read and had an average dE of 14, which is better than where it would have landed OotB (it was a hideous mess).
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately the lamp flicker/pump from Dynamic mode is a let down, maybe they will tweak that in the next firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> Dynamic could be a fun mode for daytime viewing or gaming if they can reduce the lamp flicker/pumping, it's not fast enough.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the numbers, now you motivated me to at least see if I can tame the (Dynamic) beast.
> 
> 
> 
> I would encourage others to give them a shot and see what fun there is to be had with that much lumen output.
> 
> 
> 
> * I had some animation in when first viewing the settings (so that I could wear my sunglasses inside ) and when I changed over to "Ready Player One" the image went crazy. The image shifted purple and had major artifacts so I stopped the movie and played something else, it was still there. I turned the player off and back on, still there. It was not until I switched back to Digital Cinema that it went away. I have no idea what happened but it is the first error of any kind that I have had with this unit. Coincidental I'm sure but it still freaked me out for a minute, probably one of those random bizarre HDMI handshake issues.
> 
> 
> 
> ** Dynamic is crazy for gaming, Borderlands 3 is  but now my eyes hurt.
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason


That just proves what most of us have been saying. Settings that work great for one person, could look totally different for someone else. There are so many different variables between the room, screen, sources, and it's maybe even possible that every projector itself might be slightly different. That's why I never bothered sharing my settings. I feel like a jerk sometimes, if someone should ask, but it's just a fact that the odds of my settings looking good on another setup, are probably as good as a Bigfoot sighting. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## pete ramberg

biglen said:


> That just proves what most of us have been saying. Settings that work great for one person, could look totally different for someone else. There are so many different variables between the room, screen, sources, and it's maybe even possible that every projector itself might be slightly different. That's why I never bothered sharing my settings. I feel like a jerk sometimes, if someone should ask, but it's just a fact that the odds of my settings looking good on another setup, are probably as good as a Bigfoot sighting.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


His actual name is Darryl...


----------



## hungarianhc

I'll have my Harmony wired up w/ Ethernet. Does it support IP control for Harmony? Or just IR blasting?


----------



## Peter Bendevis

noob00224 said:


> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...ors-anticipation-thread-276.html#post57050308
> 
> https://projectiondream.com/en/epson-eh-tw9300-eh-tw7300-eh-ls10000-battle/
> 
> 
> 
> Lamps loose ~25% of brightness in the first 500h. It's normal.


Thanks - exactly what I was looking for.


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> You're not alone. I don't know if you saw my earlier posts, but my eyes aren't telling me anything changed. Like you said, if anything, it might be a tad darker for me. I've been reading that some people have their slider on the projector, set to 8. I normally keep mine on 5, so I thought I'd give 8 a try. 8 is way too dark for me, and my room is 100% pitch black. I can't even see my hands in front of my face, when everything is off.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


This is why I was a very careful about what I stated. Just sit back and wait for all the dust to settle you 99% THIER!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> Haha! That sounds bad with the errors! Thx for trying it. ))
> 
> I have a big screen and I don’t like using the higher HDR slider settings (1-3) hence wanting max light output and putting the slider between 5-8 depending on movie.
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I noticed something else on my unit. Putting the contrast to +10 fixes some of the desaturation at lower IREs and actually results in a lot less blooming of highlights than with previous firmware so it’s an option now. I prefer it when using HDR slider 4-8. At lower slider settings (1-3), the desaturation at lower IRESs isn’t as noticeable / an issue.


This is one of the first things i notice besides the higher apl.BTW Is their any thing that can be done about 5 pixel lines at top and bottom of the picture? Even if I tune to be less noticeable its still there and it was also present on the 5040 models?


----------



## Sekosche

biglen said:


> You're not alone. I don't know if you saw my earlier posts, but my eyes aren't telling me anything changed. Like you said, if anything, it might be a tad darker for me. I've been reading that some people have their slider on the projector, set to 8. I normally keep mine on 5, so I thought I'd give 8 a try. 8 is way too dark for me, and my room is 100% pitch black. I can't even see my hands in front of my face, when everything is off.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Same for me, I want to like HDR settings over 5 or 6, but there’s just way too much shadow detail and brightness lost in my room for most movies, and it’s totally light controlled as well. I tried some of the general calibration settings posted earlier, but I think I’m going to reset back to default and will only use -2 gamma and panel alignment on. With panel alignment off, I didn’t notice any increase in sharpness; my PJ has poor factory panel alignment so leaving it off isn’t an option, but with it on the image is still razor sharp.

Perhaps a proper calibration is necessary to get the most out of the higher HDR levels. Wonder if there are any decent calibrators around my neck of the woods...NW Arkansas.


----------



## termite

Can someone explain how the Panel alignment work? Will that help me achieve a sharper image? I have not touched this so far..


----------



## JonfromCB

Can anybody recommend specific 50ft fiber optic HDMI cable that is known to work well with the 5050? A local installer told me Epsons are notorious for handshake issues....of course he wanted to sell me a 50 ft cable he says works well for "only" $262.....not gonna' happen.


----------



## termite

JonfromCB said:


> Can anybody recommend specific 50ft fiber optic HDMI cable that is known to work well with the 5050? A local installer told me Epsons are notorious for handshake issues....of course he wanted to sell me a 50 ft cable he says works well for "only" $262.....not gonna' happen.


There are many recommendations in this thread.
This is what I'm using with perfect results.
https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Optical-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B07KG7C25W


----------



## biglen

JonfromCB said:


> Can anybody recommend specific 50ft fiber optic HDMI cable that is known to work well with the 5050? A local installer told me Epsons are notorious for handshake issues....of course he wanted to sell me a 50 ft cable he says works well for "only" $262.....not gonna' happen.


I use the Series 3 Active with my 5050. Works perfectly. 

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

termite said:


> Can someone explain how the Panel alignment work? Will that help me achieve a sharper image? I have not touched this so far..


It could if out of alignment. Also try different Preset mode settings, 2 or 4 work best for me.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Haha! That sounds bad with the errors! Thx for trying it. ))
> 
> I have a big screen and I donâ€™️t like using the higher HDR slider settings (1-3) hence wanting max light output and putting the slider between 5-8 depending on movie.
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I noticed something else on my unit. Putting the contrast to +10 fixes some of the desaturation at lower IREs and actually results in a lot less blooming of highlights than with previous firmware so itâ€™️s an option now. I prefer it when using HDR slider 4-8. At lower slider settings (1-3), the desaturation at lower IRESs isnâ€™️t as noticeable / an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> This is one of the first things i notice besides the higher apl.BTW Is their any thing that can be done about 5 pixel lines at top and bottom of the picture? Even if I tune to be less noticeable its still there and it was also present on the 5040 models?
Click to expand...

Mmm... I am wondering if you mean unused lines or some colour fringing? 

If it’s your source then you can use the blanking function (I think it’s under display... but I’d have to look). It will remove offending fringing if it’s source related. 

If you mean black unused lines then zoom out a bit so they fall on your frame? (If you have a screen).


----------



## JonfromCB

biglen said:


> I use the Series 3 Active with my 5050. Works perfectly.
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


biglen, good to know. I'm assuming these have the new Spectra 7 chipset? I used an active 45' long run using the old Redmere chips which worked well over 95% of the time, but occasionally had handshake issues with pass through sources connected to the AVR with "lesser quality" HDMI cables. I think I'd like to give a hybrid fiber opt' cable a try plus it's hard to beat Amazon Prime's return policy and simplicity.


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> Mmm... I am wondering if you mean unused lines or some colour fringing?
> 
> If it’s your source then you can use the blanking function (I think it’s under display... but I’d have to look). It will remove offending fringing if it’s source related.
> 
> If you mean black unused lines then zoom out a bit so they fall on your frame? (If you have a screen).


I will take a picture. Even if I use the blanket feature it rides with that too. Other people have posted pictures I have seen this at the edge of top and bottom.Mine is more pronounced at the bottom or high contrast seens. look at his shoulder.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

JonfromCB said:


> biglen, good to know. I'm assuming these have the new Spectra 7 chipset? I used an active 45' long run using the old Redmere chips which worked well over 95% of the time, but occasionally had handshake issues with pass through sources connected to the AVR with "lesser quality" HDMI cables. I think I'd like to give a hybrid fiber opt' cable a try plus it's hard to beat Amazon Prime's return policy and simplicity.


I had horrible luck with Amazon cables. I probably went through about 6, from cheap, to super expensive, and had issues with all of them. The Blue Jeans has worked perfectly. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> I had horrible luck with Amazon cables. I probably went through about 6, from cheap, to super expensive, and had issues with all of them. The Blue Jeans has worked perfectly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I have to 2nd that. I would recommend them when I had my audio business. No frills just a product that worked family owned.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Rpmartinez

biglen said:


> I use the Series 3 Active with my 5050. Works perfectly.
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



On that site which one is the series 3? None of them have that name.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Rpmartinez said:


> On that site which one is the series 3? None of them have that name.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Scroll down to this on the site:









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Rpmartinez

biglen said:


> Scroll down to this on the site:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Thanks. Turns out the mobile version cuts that part out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Mmm... I am wondering if you mean unused lines or some colour fringing?
> 
> If itâ€™️s your source then you can use the blanking function (I think itâ€™️s under display... but Iâ€™️d have to look). It will remove offending fringing if itâ€™️s source related.
> 
> If you mean black unused lines then zoom out a bit so they fall on your frame? (If you have a screen).
> 
> 
> 
> I will take a picture. Even if I use the blanket feature it rides with that too. Other people have posted pictures I have seen this at the edge of top and bottom.Mine is more pronounced at the bottom or high contrast seens. look at his shoulder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ah ok I see now.

Mmm, can I be honest? If you have the 5050 then it could be panel issue that passes QA for the 5050 but not for the 6050? I have the Australian / EU equivalent of the 6050 (9400) so it could be that such panel issues aren’t present? 

It might be a good idea to contact Epson and send them pictures with different sources and with blanking enabled. They might exchange it if it’s bad enough and it turns out it’s the panels.


----------



## JonfromCB

biglen said:


> I had horrible luck with Amazon cables. I probably went through about 6, from cheap, to super expensive, and had issues with all of them. The Blue Jeans has worked perfectly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Also good to know....don't want or need that kind of luck. Considering their assortment they must have some other than the ATZEBE-optica's recommended by termite.


----------



## JewDaddy

Hey guys! I haven't been playing games or watching movies lately on my 5050. Been using my LG C9 OLED for the most part. Anyways, downloaded the latest update for the Epson, fired up the COD MW2 Remaster campaign on PS4 Pro in HDR and wow. It just looks so damn good!









Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

biglen said:


> You're not alone. I don't know if you saw my earlier posts, but my eyes aren't telling me anything changed. Like you said, if anything, it might be a tad darker for me. I've been reading that some people have their slider on the projector, set to 8. I normally keep mine on 5, so I thought I'd give 8 a try. 8 is way too dark for me, and my room is 100% pitch black. I can't even see my hands in front of my face, when everything is off.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes, I did see your previous posts. How big is your screen, and what colour mode do you use? The slider on 8 is good for me, but I use high lamp, Natural on my 135” screen. I can use Digital Cinema, but I have to put the slider up to maybe 3, and then you get highlight clipping. Swings and roundabouts...


----------



## sddawson

covsound1 said:


> OK to open up worms. That is what the forum is for. HDR is more than high lights try the movie 1917 both ways (high lcd mode and projector mode). When you watch it in projected mode you be looking at greens all day. A good picture but boring. In super high lcd mode no help night and day difference green does not dominate your movie. Some members have their machines calibrated to match what the panny is doing in projector mode.I think this is the only way to do this .I would love to hear your opinion after you try this. I am just a noob and can only talk about what I see with my eyes.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I’m a relative noob too, but this is the way I look at it. For a 1000 title, having the HDR TV Type set to Basic Luminance (1000 nit target) or super high lcd (1500 nit target) will make no difference. There is nothing to optimise. For a 4000 nit title, however, it‘s a different story. The Pana will work its magic and tone map to the set target. Now if you flip between the two without changing the HDR slider on the projector, you’ll find the super high setting will produce a brighter picture (with, no doubt different perceived colours). However, highlights will be clipped. You can see this clearly with something like the contrast pattern on the Spears and Munsil UHD benchmark disc. If you adjust the slider up (from 8 to about 12 in my case), you get the highlights back and the picture darkens to the same as the Basic setting. Maybe doing this will show the colours as being comparable between the two settings.

I don’t have 1917, so I can’t test that specifically, and I don’t know what level it’s mastered at.


----------



## Pretorian

I just rewatched Star Trek: Beyond in 3d. It looked great on my 6050. I get some cross talk but it is still "fine".


----------



## covsound1

sddawson said:


> I’m a relative noob too, but this is the way I look at it. For a 1000 title, having the HDR TV Type set to Basic Luminance (1000 nit target) or super high lcd (1500 nit target) will make no difference. There is nothing to optimise. For a 4000 nit title, however, it‘s a different story. The Pana will work its magic and tone map to the set target. Now if you flip between the two without changing the HDR slider on the projector, you’ll find the super high setting will produce a brighter picture (with, no doubt different perceived colours). However, highlights will be clipped. You can see this clearly with something like the contrast pattern on the Spears and Munsil UHD benchmark disc. If you adjust the slider up (from 8 to about 12 in my case), you get the highlights back and the picture darkens to the same as the Basic setting. Maybe doing this will show the colours as being comparable between the two settings.
> 
> 
> 
> I don’t have 1917, so I can’t test that specifically, and I don’t know what level it’s mastered at.


Thanks I really appreciate your reply. You mention about turning down the slider to 12.I don't have the spears and musill disc but with movies i often find my self turning it down to sometimes 10. When I want that full hdr look especially with a reference movie. On the other hand the new movie The Hunt no real special highlights but fantastic details and colors use 3.The movie 1917 , I don't know what level it is mastered at but was made with natural light a reference picture.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> Ah ok I see now.
> 
> Mmm, can I be honest? If you have the 5050 then it could be panel issue that passes QA for the 5050 but not for the 6050? I have the Australian / EU equivalent of the 6050 (9400) so it could be that such panel issues aren’t present?
> 
> It might be a good idea to contact Epson and send them pictures with different sources and with blanking enabled. They might exchange it if it’s bad enough and it turns out it’s the panels.


Lol of course I want you to be honest. I have looked at pictures from other members that have the 6050 and they have the same issue. it may not be 5 pixels and may be 4 pixels I don't know but it is there my sharpness is turned off. A lot of people don't even notice it and it may be less visible with out the color filter i still have an excellent picture . Maybe I gave myself an excuse to do a scope screen? Anyway I plugged in your dynamic settings and they look great.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

Am I doing lense memory wrong?? It started when I repositioned my 16:9(lense 2) because installers were off by a hair. I corrected the position and cycled to 2.35:1(lense 1), it was in the right location, then back to 16:9(lense2) and it was off screen a bit. I redid lense 2 by anticipating its position and how far off it was going to and it worked. Both lense memories were good. Last night I saved a new memory for Netflix(memory 3), I was on 2.35:1 position. When i hit lense 1, the position was off screen, so I had to redo my 2.35:1. How do you avoid all of this back and forth crap?? What am I doing wrong?


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah ok I see now.
> 
> Mmm, can I be honest? If you have the 5050 then it could be panel issue that passes QA for the 5050 but not for the 6050? I have the Australian / EU equivalent of the 6050 (9400) so it could be that such panel issues arenâ€™️t present?
> 
> It might be a good idea to contact Epson and send them pictures with different sources and with blanking enabled. They might exchange it if itâ€™️s bad enough and it turns out itâ€™️s the panels.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol of course I want you to be honest. I have looked at pictures from other members that have the 6050 and they have the same issue. it may not be 5 pixels and may be 4 pixels I don't know but it is there my sharpness is turned off. A lot of people don't even notice it and it may be less visible with out the color filter i still have an excellent picture . Maybe I gave myself an excuse to do a scope screen? Anyway I plugged in your dynamic settings and they look great.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Mmm ok. I haven’t noticed it on my unit. But maybe I shouldn’t look for it if I hadn’t until now... 😛 

That’s great re dynamic settings. It sounds like they work for some. You can back off the slider more and experience some eye-popping highlights, especially with a smaller screen. 😉


----------



## skylarlove1999

sddawson said:


> I’m a relative noob too, but this is the way I look at it. For a 1000 title, having the HDR TV Type set to Basic Luminance (1000 nit target) or super high lcd (1500 nit target) will make no difference. There is nothing to optimise. For a 4000 nit title, however, it‘s a different story. The Pana will work its magic and tone map to the set target. Now if you flip between the two without changing the HDR slider on the projector, you’ll find the super high setting will produce a brighter picture (with, no doubt different perceived colours). However, highlights will be clipped. You can see this clearly with something like the contrast pattern on the Spears and Munsil UHD benchmark disc. If you adjust the slider up (from 8 to about 12 in my case), you get the highlights back and the picture darkens to the same as the Basic setting. Maybe doing this will show the colours as being comparable between the two settings.
> 
> 
> 
> I don’t have 1917, so I can’t test that specifically, and I don’t know what level it’s mastered at.


Since even the highest lumen projectors, except for the $500K Christie Eclipse, struggle to produce 100 nits even titles mastered in 1000 nits benefit from tone mapping which is essentially what the optimizer is doing. The blown out highlights are more noticeable on higher nit titles because of the increased brightness and the limitations of a projector to display them accurately but the optimizer beneficial for all titles. Since the firmware update the overall brightness in Digital Cinema mode had been increased so the blown out highlights appear less obvious to the human eye. This has led some people to discontinue using the optimizer. The clipped highlights are still there but may appear less objectionable to the human eye due to the way we perceive light and dark elements when side by side. Without the optimizer on at all the images do appear significantly brighter and look more natural. This has probably led some people to ignore the highlight clipping and loss of shadow detail. I agree that the optimizer is still necessary to see the detail in specular highlights. It is beneficial on all content regardless of nit mastering level due to the inherent limitations of projector technology. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

skylarlove1999 said:


> sddawson said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iâ€™️m a relative noob too, but this is the way I look at it. For a 1000 title, having the HDR TV Type set to Basic Luminance (1000 nit target) or super high lcd (1500 nit target) will make no difference. There is nothing to optimise. For a 4000 nit title, however, itâ€˜s a different story. The Pana will work its magic and tone map to the set target. Now if you flip between the two without changing the HDR slider on the projector, youâ€™️ll find the super high setting will produce a brighter picture (with, no doubt different perceived colours). However, highlights will be clipped. You can see this clearly with something like the contrast pattern on the Spears and Munsil UHD benchmark disc. If you adjust the slider up (from 8 to about 12 in my case), you get the highlights back and the picture darkens to the same as the Basic setting. Maybe doing this will show the colours as being comparable between the two settings.
> 
> 
> 
> I donâ€™️t have 1917, so I canâ€™️t test that specifically, and I donâ€™️t know what level itâ€™️s mastered at.
> 
> 
> 
> Since even the highest lumen projectors, except for the $500K Christie Eclipse, struggle to produce 100 nits even titles mastered in 1000 nits benefit from tone mapping which is essentially what the optimizer is doing. The blown out highlights are more noticeable on higher nit titles because of the increased brightness and the limitations of a projector to display them accurately but the optimizer beneficial for all titles. Since the firmware update the overall brightness in Digital Cinema mode had been increased so the blown out highlights appear less obvious to the human eye. This has led some people to discontinue using the optimizer. The clipped highlights are still there but may appear less objectionable to the human eye due to the way we perceive light and dark elements when side by side. Without the optimizer on at all the images do appear significantly brighter and look more natural. This has probably led some people to ignore the highlight clipping and loss of shadow detail. I agree that the optimizer is still necessary to see the detail in specular highlights. It is beneficial on all content regardless of nit mastering level due to the inherent limitations of projector technology.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have a triple velveted out room and I still think the greatest advantage of the Panasonic over Epson mapping is the black floor. Its very noticable in my room.

Some will like the Epson Hdr look better with the 1.03 update. It definitely creates brighter highlights and looks brighter over all. I have a batcave and run a relatively small screen so I much perfer the panasonic mapping.

One other thing. Iam sensitive to motion. Its the only minor gripe I have about the Epson. I have done lots of testing with many different movies.. the motion is undoubtly better if you have the panasonics do the HDR to SDR conversion. If I let the Epson handle all HDR it is not quite as smooth. 

All splitting hairs and all just my opinion!


----------



## biglen

sddawson said:


> Yes, I did see your previous posts. How big is your screen, and what colour mode do you use? The slider on 8 is good for me, but I use high lamp, Natural on my 135” screen. I can use Digital Cinema, but I have to put the slider up to maybe 3, and then you get highlight clipping. Swings and roundabouts...


Here's what I'm using on my painted screen, with an image that's around 130" Scope.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Here's what I'm using on my painted screen, with an image that's around 130" Scope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Bingo, these are identical to what I am currently using on my 100” white screen, with ECO lamp. I must say regardless of what others are finding post firmware update I have noticed blacks are deeper and colours have even more pop yet still look natural.

Though I use Natural instead is Bright Cinema


----------



## Livin

*Sony VPL-HW45es to 5050UB ?*

I've had an HW45ES for a few years now, and very happy with it. Would I notice a large improvement in colors, details, etc on my 120" (at 10ft)? I'm happy with a 1080p Sony but if the 5050's image quality and colors are a lot better I may spring for the 5050. Also, I read the Epsons are pretty loud compared to the Sony... any way to make it quieter? I run the Sony on ECO, and its darn quiet and right above my head.

thx


----------



## sddawson

covsound1 said:


> Thanks I really appreciate your reply. You mention about turning down the slider to 12.I don't have the spears and musill disc but with movies i often find my self turning it down to sometimes 10. When I want that full hdr look especially with a reference movie. On the other hand the new movie The Hunt no real special highlights but fantastic details and colors use 3.The movie 1917 , I don't know what level it is mastered at but was made with natural light a reference picture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Wow, going from 3 to 10 is a huge change. My quest is always to find settings that don’t need to be messed with between movies. Probably futile with HDR!


----------



## skylarlove1999

sddawson said:


> Wow, going from 3 to 10 is a huge change. My quest is always to find settings that don’t need to be messed with between movies. Probably futile with HDR!


I went from high lamp slider at 5 to medium lamp at slider at 6-8 for most movies. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

mon2479 said:


> Am I doing lense memory wrong?? It started when I repositioned my 16:9(lense 2) because installers were off by a hair. I corrected the position and cycled to 2.35:1(lense 1), it was in the right location, then back to 16:9(lense2) and it was off screen a bit. I redid lense 2 by anticipating its position and how far off it was going to and it worked. Both lense memories were good. Last night I saved a new memory for Netflix(memory 3), I was on 2.35:1 position. When i hit lense 1, the position was off screen, so I had to redo my 2.35:1. How do you avoid all of this back and forth crap?? What am I doing wrong?


A quote from someone:
“ Set the lens way off, then creep up to the desired position but always in the same direction, for vertical and horizontal. It is the zig-zagging about the final position that isn't counted precisely by the sensor, and which results in the stored position being off. It would seem that it needs to be done in ten steps or more. “
Also see https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-6040ub-owners-thread-140.html#post48985465 for instructions straight from Epson.


----------



## sddawson

skylarlove1999 said:


> Since even the highest lumen projectors, except for the $500K Christie Eclipse, struggle to produce 100 nits even titles mastered in 1000 nits benefit from tone mapping which is essentially what the optimizer is doing. The blown out highlights are more noticeable on higher nit titles because of the increased brightness and the limitations of a projector to display them accurately but the optimizer beneficial for all titles. Since the firmware update the overall brightness in Digital Cinema mode had been increased so the blown out highlights appear less obvious to the human eye. This has led some people to discontinue using the optimizer. The clipped highlights are still there but may appear less objectionable to the human eye due to the way we perceive light and dark elements when side by side. Without the optimizer on at all the images do appear significantly brighter and look more natural. This has probably led some people to ignore the highlight clipping and loss of shadow detail. I agree that the optimizer is still necessary to see the detail in specular highlights. It is beneficial on all content regardless of nit mastering level due to the inherent limitations of projector technology.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Assuming we’re talking here about using the Pana in HDR mode and not SDR2020, I would think whether the optimiser does anything depends on the target display type. With a target display type of mid luminance (1000 nits), I’m pretty certain it will do nothing. This is born out by looking at things like contrast patterns. If it sees disc metadata that says the title is 4000 nits, it will tone map down to 1000 nits. Regardless of any tone mapping it does, the display device will then do its own tone mapping. This processing is dictated by the position of the HDR slider - it changes the “curve” being used. The main beauty of the optimiser, in my eyes, is that it is metadata-aware, whereas the Epson is not. The Pana can present a consistent signal to the Epson at a particular nit level that you can set, based on disc metadata. In theory, no messing with the HDR slider.

It’s not that all titles _benefit_ from tone mapping. All HDR titles _have_ to be tone mapped on a projector. By turning off the optimiser, you’re just relying on Epson’s tone mapping alone. I believe you will then be messing with the slider a lot, depending on the nits of the source disc.

Just my understanding! I’ll play with Digital Cinema some more to see if I can to a reasonable compromise on my 135” screen. I currently use Natural for the significantly increased lumens.


----------



## sddawson

gunlife said:


> I have a triple velveted out room and I still think the greatest advantage of the Panasonic over Epson mapping is the black floor. Its very noticable in my room.
> 
> Some will like the Epson Hdr look better with the 1.03 update. It definitely creates brighter highlights and looks brighter over all. I have a batcave and run a relatively small screen so I much perfer the panasonic mapping.
> 
> One other thing. Iam sensitive to motion. Its the only minor gripe I have about the Epson. I have done lots of testing with many different movies.. the motion is undoubtly better if you have the panasonics do the HDR to SDR conversion. If I let the Epson handle all HDR it is not quite as smooth.
> 
> All splitting hairs and all just my opinion!


So you always use sdr2020? What target display type?


----------



## sddawson

biglen said:


> Here's what I'm using on my painted screen, with an image that's around 130" Scope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Similar screen size to my 16:9. I’ll never tried Bright Cinema. Do you use it oob, or have you had it calibrated? How are the colours?


----------



## biglen

sddawson said:


> Similar screen size to my 16:9. I’ll never tried Bright Cinema. Do you use it oob, or have you had it calibrated? How are the colours?


I had it professionally calibrated. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

skylarlove1999 said:


> I went from high lamp slider at 5 to medium lamp at slider at 6-8 for most movies.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


You mean since going to 1.03 and turning off the optimiser?
Edit: What size screen?


----------



## skylarlove1999

sddawson said:


> You mean since going to 1.03 and turning off the optimiser?


I still use the optimizer after the firmware update. I have a triple black velvet room. I also recently updated my screen to a 140 inch 2:39 Stewart filmscreen Studiotek 130 G4 which has a 1.3 gain. 

My 2:39 size before was a 113 inch diagonal with 1.1 gain. I think there are just too many variables of screen material/gain, screen size, room conditions ambient light and ones preferred brightness for HDR to really just copy and paste another users settings.

I am running Panasonic in HDR mode with LCD/Projector setting for display, Optimizer On using Standard. Epson projector in medium lamp using Digital Cinema with HDR Slider of 6-8. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

skylarlove1999 said:


> I still use the optimizer after the firmware update. I have a triple black velvet room. I also recently updated my screen to a 140 inch 2:39 Stewart filmscreen Studiotek 130 G4 which has a 1.3 gain.
> 
> My 2:39 size before was a 113 inch diagonal with 1.1 gain. I think there are just too many variables of screen material/gain, screen size, room conditions ambient light and ones preferred brightness for HDR to really just copy and paste another users settings.
> 
> I am running Panasonic in HDR mode with LCD/Projector setting for display, Optimizer On using Standard. Epson projector in medium lamp using Digital Cinema with HDR Slider of 6-8.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Great - thanks for that. I will play with Digital Cinema some more. I have a blacked out room, with some velvet etc. I agree that it is impossible to duplicate others’ settings, especially when it comes to HDR! Your 1.3 gain will help a lot. I only have 1. What do you mean by “Standard” when you mentioned the optimiser?


----------



## gunlife

sddawson said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a triple velveted out room and I still think the greatest advantage of the Panasonic over Epson mapping is the black floor. Its very noticable in my room.
> 
> Some will like the Epson Hdr look better with the 1.03 update. It definitely creates brighter highlights and looks brighter over all. I have a batcave and run a relatively small screen so I much perfer the panasonic mapping.
> 
> One other thing. Iam sensitive to motion. Its the only minor gripe I have about the Epson. I have done lots of testing with many different movies.. the motion is undoubtly better if you have the panasonics do the HDR to SDR conversion. If I let the Epson handle all HDR it is not quite as smooth.
> 
> All splitting hairs and all just my opinion!
> 
> 
> 
> So you always use sdr2020? What target display type?
Click to expand...

Sometimes for animated movies I Don't. But yes the hdr to sdr gives a great black floor and very consistant output.


----------



## sddawson

gunlife said:


> Sometimes for animated movies I Don't. But yes the hdr to sdr gives a great black floor and very consistant output.


Out of interest, what do you run the Pana slider at in SDR2020?


----------



## gunlife

sddawson said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes for animated movies I Don't. But yes the hdr to sdr gives a great black floor and very consistant output.
> 
> 
> 
> Out of interest, what do you run the Pana slider at in SDR2020?
Click to expand...

I will check tomorrow. Sorry out tonight!


----------



## DaGamePimp

I have the best results with the Panasonic HDR TV Type set to Basic/Projector, so it is tone mapping due the lower nit setting (regardless of the Optimizer setting). 

- I think the Panasonic Basic/Projector setting should be used on just about every HDR consumer projector because nothing on the market can deliver what is required (like a flat panel display can).

If you want to have a more set and forget you'll want to continue using the Panasonic Optimizer so you allow it to do the work vs. the Epson HDR slider. 

If you want a more Dynamic image on a per film basis and you don't mind adjusting the HDR slider on the Epson here and there then leave the Panasonic Optimizer off.

Once again these are my findings with my gear in my room. 

- Jason


----------



## skylarlove1999

sddawson said:


> Great - thanks for that. I will play with Digital Cinema some more. I have a blacked out room, with some velvet etc. I agree that it is impossible to duplicate others’ settings, especially when it comes to HDR! Your 1.3 gain will help a lot. I only have 1. What do you mean by “Standard” when you mentioned the optimiser?


The Optimizer basically has four settings that let's you basically tell the optimizer your room conditions. Standard is a dark room. The 3 settings above that progressively brighten the picture. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## cky2354

Does anyone know if the new firmware 1.03 did anything to 3D video as well? All I know is that it is so much better than what I experienced before. Now, the big change was really going from my Samsung 3D glasses to the Xpand X105 that people were recommending here so I bought one to compare and boy, are these glasses much better than the Samsung ones. Before, the Epson was too dim... too many crosstalk and ghosting.. and flickering of the active glasses that I am very sensitive too was was just too much to enjoy any 3D movies. Now... I would say virtually all of the above has been eliminated except for maybe crosstalk and ghosting here and there but not as much as it was before.

I'm coming from my passive 65" 3D LG OLED TV and so it was very hard to beat the 3D with that TV and when I first got my Epson back in March and tried to watch 3D movies on it... it was a horrible experience. I couldn't watch 3D on it so it became strictly 2D only for the projector and 3D on the OLED TV. Only problem was that for our movies nights, I couldn't get my kids to watch 3D movies on the TV anymore. They rather forego the 3D for a bigger screen experience (I have 150" scope screen). But being a 3D movie enthusiast, I had to try 3D on the Epson again and with the new firmware and Xpand 3D glasses, I now have something that surpasses my OLED TV for 3D. Every 3D demo I have thrown up on the Epson has been OMG and has blown me away and my kids also agree as well. By the way, I had to buy 3 more Xpand 3D glasses since we are family of 4. 

So combo of excellent 3D experience with big screen is just no match for a TV.... I finally have a projector that I can enjoy all my movies... be it 4K HDR... 3D blur-ray...sports..TV... and gaming! I'm so glad to have purchased this projector and like with agreement from most people, the new firmware did something... not sure what but has improved the picture quality for me. It is much better experience now even with 3D material finally.


----------



## skylarlove1999

cky2354 said:


> Does anyone know if the new firmware 1.03 did anything to 3D video as well? All I know is that it is so much better than what I experienced before. Now, the big change was really going from my Samsung 3D glasses to the Xpand X105 that people were recommending here so I bought one to compare and boy, are these glasses much better than the Samsung ones. Before, the Epson was too dim... too many crosstalk and ghosting.. and flickering of the active glasses that I am very sensitive too was was just too much to enjoy any 3D movies. Now... I would say virtually all of the above has been eliminated except for maybe crosstalk and ghosting here and there but not as much as it was before.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm coming from my passive 65" 3D LG OLED TV and so it was very hard to beat the 3D with that TV and when I first got my Epson back in March and tried to watch 3D movies on it... it was a horrible experience. I couldn't watch 3D on it so it became strictly 2D only for the projector and 3D on the OLED TV. Only problem was that for our movies nights, I couldn't get my kids to watch 3D movies on the TV anymore. They rather forego the 3D for a bigger screen experience (I have 150" scope screen). But being a 3D movie enthusiast, I had to try 3D on the Epson again and with the new firmware and Xpand 3D glasses, I now have something that surpasses my OLED TV for 3D. Every 3D demo I have thrown up on the Epson has been OMG and has blown me away and my kids also agree as well. By the way, I had to buy 3 more Xpand 3D glasses since we are family of 4.
> 
> 
> 
> So combo of excellent 3D experience with big screen is just no match for a TV.... I finally have a projector that I can enjoy all my movies... be it 4K HDR... 3D blur-ray...sports..TV... and gaming! I'm so glad to have purchased this projector and like with agreement from most people, the new firmware did something... not sure what but has improved the picture quality for me. It is much better experience now even with 3D material finally.


Whatever they did to the brightness seems to be across the color modes/lamp modes, so a brighter image would benefit 3D and HDR the most IMHO.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## cky2354

skylarlove1999 said:


> Whatever they did to the brightness seems to be across the color modes/lamp modes, so a brighter image would benefit 3D and HDR the most IMHO.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes.. I do think that's the case as well. I am also enjoying variety of 4K HDR content as well on Digital Cinema mode with slider around 7 to 8... Before the firmware, I had forgo Digital Cinema and have it on Natural Cinema and my slider was between 3 to 5 usually.

Maybe the big difference in user experience is probably people that don't have their projector calibrated and left it mostly on default and they are the ones seeing the dramatic difference while people that have it calibrated properly, it's not a big jump. Regardless... as someone pointed it out.. it's like having a new projector! I was happy with this projector for the most part but now, it's just amazing!


----------



## JonfromCB

Questions about firmware updates. How current can I expect the firmware version to be on a new 5050ub? Should I expect to have to do all updates or are they cumulative with all previous updates included in the most recent? Also any update tips or lessons learned would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## jaredmwright

JonfromCB said:


> Questions about firmware updates. How current can I expect the firmware version to be on a new 5050ub? Should I expect to have to do all updates or are they cumulative with all previous updates included in the most recent? Also any tips or lessons learned would be appreciated. Thanks


Cumulative, so one upgrade is all that is needed. Takes only a few minutes using a USB drive plugged into the projector.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

JonfromCB said:


> Questions about firmware updates. How current can I expect the firmware version to be on a new 5050ub? Should I expect to have to do all updates or are they cumulative with all previous updates included in the most recent? Also any update tips or lessons learned would be appreciated. Thanks


I would be shocked if a projector bought within the next 3 months would have the 1.03 firmware uploaded. Projectors bought today were manufactured anywhere from 3 to 6 months prior. A firmware update for Epson would contain all previous firmware updates. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Malodium

cky2354 said:


> Does anyone know if the new firmware 1.03 did anything to 3D video as well? All I know is that it is so much better than what I experienced before. Now, the big change was really going from my Samsung 3D glasses to the Xpand X105 that people were recommending here so I bought one to compare and boy, are these glasses much better than the Samsung ones. Before, the Epson was too dim... too many crosstalk and ghosting.. and flickering of the active glasses that I am very sensitive too was was just too much to enjoy any 3D movies. Now... I would say virtually all of the above has been eliminated except for maybe crosstalk and ghosting here and there but not as much as it was before.


This is interesting. I have been using the Samsung glasses and despite everyone saying how great the 3D is on this projector, it just doesn't look very good to me. I guess I should go ahead and buy one of those Xpand X105 glasses and see if it makes it any better.


----------



## chek39

*Epson 6050 with 158 inch*

finally pulled trigger and bought Epson 6050 and planning to have 158 inch 2.35 scope screen either Silver Ticket or Elite Aeon (both 1.1 gain White material).
Initially i was looking NX5 and Epson 6050 and I always debating myself to have bigger screen (i already has 120 inch with Epson 5030) and i thought with high bulb mode probably I can have enough brightness and with free spare lamp I can live few years. My average usage could be 10hrs/week.. getting to 2000 hours with two bulbs takes 4+ years..by the time, probably new projector with new things.. I looked at 1.3 gain screens and even 130 to 140 inch range screens costs couple of thousands, so i decided to buy brand new Denon X3700 (just arrived at Denon) and UB820 4k player instead of spending on 1.3 gain screen at the expense of a bulb. probably sharpness may not be as good as NX5 but I would consider NX5 weakness as well for not able to use 140+ screens. I know this is my excuse to get bigger screen 

Looking some advise.
Attached two screenshots. one with 2.00x zoom and full zoom.
The difference is 1fl at 500 hours (full bright mode) and no difference in dynamic mode.
is any issues by putting projector at closest (16.4 ft) or in the future ? 

thanks


----------



## cky2354

Malodium said:


> This is interesting. I have been using the Samsung glasses and despite everyone saying how great the 3D is on this projector, it just doesn't look very good to me. I guess I should go ahead and buy one of those Xpand X105 glasses and see if it makes it any better.


I can tell you that it makes a huge difference! I ordered three more of the Xpand X105 glasses but only one more arrived today so I only had 2 to use and my kids wanted to watch Madagascar 3 so I was stuck with the Samsung SSG-5100 for tonight and even though it was better than before, I had too many crosstalk and ghosting though and wasn't able to enjoy it as much. After the movie was over, I watched some of the scenes that the Samsung had trouble with and the Xpand X105 had no issues. I also think the picture is a little bit brighter and overall 3D experience is much better. I thought all 3D active glasses were the same so I went the cheap route and got the Samsungs... wish I would have gotten the Xpand instead. But it's better late than never and 3D on the Epson is just so amazing!


----------



## sddawson

skylarlove1999 said:


> The Optimizer basically has four settings that let's you basically tell the optimizer your room conditions. Standard is a dark room. The 3 settings above that progressively brighten the picture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I’d forgotten about that setting on the HDR button. It adjusts the dynamic range slider. I suspect you’d get the same sort of results by adjusting the Epson HDR slider.


----------



## Terence

I finally received my 6050UB today that is replacing a HC 4000 and what an upgrade! I’m using a 127” AT Silver Ticket screen and love the combo.


----------



## sddawson

DaGamePimp said:


> I have the best results with the Panasonic HDR TV Type set to Basic/Projector, so it is tone mapping due the lower nit setting (regardless of the Optimizer setting).
> 
> - I think the Panasonic Basic/Projector setting should be used on just about every HDR consumer projector because nothing on the market can deliver what is required (like a flat panel display can).
> 
> If you want to have a more set and forget you'll want to continue using the Panasonic Optimizer so you allow it to do the work vs. the Epson HDR slider.
> 
> If you want a more Dynamic image on a per film basis and you don't mind adjusting the HDR slider on the Epson here and there then leave the Panasonic Optimizer off.
> 
> Once again these are my findings with my gear in my room.
> 
> - Jason


If the Pana is set to HDR/BT2020 and the optimiser is off, no tone mapping takes place at all. The target display type is ignored, and all tone mapping would take place in the projector. If the optimiser is on, it will take note of the disc metadata and tone map down to the set target display type appropriately. Then the projector still does its own tone mapping from there, and you set the HDR slider to taste. It all comes down to what does the best tone mapping really. I’ve been running with the middle target display type (1000 nits) so that the projector gets 1000 nit signals from the disc player and the majority of content on Apple TV. If I had it set to the 500 nit target, I think I’d always have to adjust the HDR slider between sources.

So many combinations of variables here!


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Hi I just order the epson 5050ub, I sold the optoma uhd65, currently I have a motorized 110 16:9 screen. What suggestions you have for 2:35.1 movies.?


----------



## DaGamePimp

sddawson said:


> If the Pana is set to HDR/BT2020 and the optimiser is off, no tone mapping takes place at all. The target display type is ignored, and all tone mapping would take place in the projector. If the optimiser is on, it will take note of the disc metadata and tone map down to the set target display type appropriately. Then the projector still does its own tone mapping from there, and you set the HDR slider to taste. It all comes down to what does the best tone mapping really. I’ve been running with the middle target display type (1000 nits) so that the projector gets 1000 nit signals from the disc player and the majority of content on Apple TV. If I had it set to the 500 nit target, I think I’d always have to adjust the HDR slider between sources.
> 
> So many combinations of variables here!


Sure, I made the assumption that the Panasonic SDR/HDR BT.2020 was understood at this point since it has been discussed in such length (and recently). 

- Jason


----------



## sddawson

DaGamePimp said:


> Sure, I made the assumption that the Panasonic SDR/HDR BT.2020 was understood at this point since it has been discussed in such length (and recently).
> 
> - Jason


Sorry Jason, not with you here. Are you saying you use SDR/BT2020?


----------



## DaGamePimp

sddawson said:


> Sorry Jason, not with you here. Are you saying you use SDR/BT2020?


I am still evaluating many settings (since installing 1.03) in order to obtain the best end-result in my system.

- I have possibly made comments since installing 1.03 that I may no longer agree with, but that's all part of the experimentation. 

- I have changed so many settings and taken so many reads at this point that it's all starting to become a bit nit-picky. 

- I have not simply been trusting my eyes, I take reads and allow the measures to tell me what is different (my usual goal is to get the most accurate starting point pre-calibration). 

- I have spent more time viewing calibration/test patterns than enjoying content since updating to 1.03. 

What I can tell you is that regardless of SDR/HDR BT.2020 the reads do vary based upon the HDR TV Type setting (although it does have a lower measurable impact).

I hope that clarifies my position a bit, it's still under construction (as we have both stated... many variables). 

- Jason


----------



## sddawson

DaGamePimp said:


> I am still evaluating many settings (since installing 1.03) in order to obtain the best end-result in my system.
> 
> - I have possibly made comments since installing 1.03 that I may no longer agree with, but that's all part of the experimentation.
> 
> - I have changed so many settings and taken so many reads at this point that it's all starting to become a bit nit-picky.
> 
> - I have not simply been trusting my eyes, I take reads and allow the measures to tell me what is different (my usual goal is to get the most accurate starting point pre-calibration).
> 
> - I have spent more time viewing calibration/test patterns than enjoying content since updating to 1.03.
> 
> What I can tell you is that regardless of SDR/HDR BT.2020 the reads do vary based upon the HDR TV Type setting (although it does have a lower measurable impact).
> 
> I hope that clarifies my position a bit, it's still under construction (as we have both stated... many variables).
> 
> - Jason


Well, to clear one thing up, the TV Type setting has no effect when you're running SDR/BT2020. When you're doing HDR->SDR conversion, you get a different slider when you press and hold the HDR button. That slider dictates the target nits of the display. There's a formula that tells you where to put the slider if you know the max nits of your display. I can let you know what it is if you're interested. In SDR/BT2020 mode, if the optimiser is off it assumes the source is 1000 nits and tone maps accordingly in the conversion to SDR. With the optimiser on, it takes metadata from the source to determine the mapping.


----------



## DaGamePimp

sddawson said:


> Well, to clear one thing up, the TV Type setting has no effect when you're running SDR/BT2020. When you're doing HDR->SDR conversion, you get a different slider when you press and hold the HDR button. That slider dictates the target nits of the display. There's a formula that tells you where to put the slider if you know the max nits of your display. I can let you know what it is if you're interested. In SDR/BT2020 mode, if the optimiser is off it assumes the source is 1000 nits and tone maps accordingly in the conversion to SDR. With the optimiser on, it takes metadata from the source to determine the mapping.


Yes that's all clear and I have not changed the 4 HDR settings away from Standard, what I am saying is that I have measured a difference from the HDR TV Type setting (going from basic to medium specifically) while using SDR BT.2020. I am not saying it's a night and day difference but it does measure slightly different and the result is visible. I know my gear is very repeatable if I change nothing so I have to conclude it's the Panasonic 820 at this point. 

* Something just occurred to me... maybe I have an older firmware revision on the 820, I need to check it (it's not connected to the net because I use it for disc playback only). I had bad and limited app experience so I left it off the net (plus it would never connect via wifi when I got it). I don't know if there is even any variance but I'll go check it now. 


** *Great*, stole ethernet from another device, plugged into 820, it's now updating to v1.60 (hope that's the latest version).  

I really thought that I had done this firmware update (deja vu moment) but now I remember that I changed 820's 3x after getting a bad unit and then getting a much lower price. 

Well crud, back to hours of test patterns...

- Jason


----------



## sddawson

DaGamePimp said:


> Yes that's all clear and I have not changed the 4 HDR settings away from Standard, what I am saying is that I have measured a difference from the HDR TV Type setting (going from basic to medium specifically) while using SDR BT.2020. I am not saying it's a night and day difference but it does measure slightly different and the result is visible. I know my gear is very repeatable if I change nothing so I have to conclude it's the Panasonic 820 at this point.
> 
> * Something just occurred to me... maybe I have an older firmware revision on the 820, I need to check it (it's not connected to the net because I use it for disc playback only). I had bad and limited app experience so I left it off the net (plus it would never connect via wifi when I got it). I don't know if there is even any variance but I'll go check it now.
> 
> 
> ** *Great*, stole ethernet from another device, plugged into 820, it's now updating to v1.60 (hope that's the latest version).
> 
> I really thought that I had done this firmware update (deja vu moment) but now I remember that I changed 820's 3x after getting a bad unit and then getting a much lower price.
> 
> Well crud, back to hours of test patterns...
> 
> - Jason


Oh dear! I don’t remember what changed in the firmware revisions. But it was certainly conventional wisdom on the 820 forum that TV Type wasn’t used in SDR/BT2020 mode. It’ll be interesting if you can show that it is.


----------



## DaGamePimp

sddawson said:


> Oh dear! I don’t remember what changed in the firmware revisions. But it was certainly conventional wisdom on the 820 forum that TV Type wasn’t used in SDR/BT2020 mode. It’ll be interesting if you can show that it is.


Thanks, I likely would not have caught that on my unit until there was a new firmware release. 


Just finished a few basic reads and it looks like it's now a margin of error difference (unlike my previous measures), so it does appear that there is no variance from HDR TV Type while using SDR BT2020 (HDR -> SDR). I only did a few patterns, as it takes a while doing reads from a player in multiple modes, but it was Basic/Projector vs. Medium.

I wonder if anyone has verified Disc vs USB playback on the Panasonic players? 

Ok, so now I'll have to reconsider my 820 use and do some more tests once I have finished the various mode calibrations (via TPG).

- Jason


----------



## biglen

cky2354 said:


> Yes.. I do think that's the case as well. I am also enjoying variety of 4K HDR content as well on Digital Cinema mode with slider around 7 to 8... Before the firmware, I had forgo Digital Cinema and have it on Natural Cinema and my slider was between 3 to 5 usually.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe the big difference in user experience is probably people that don't have their projector calibrated and left it mostly on default and they are the ones seeing the dramatic difference while people that have it calibrated properly, it's not a big jump. Regardless... as someone pointed it out.. it's like having a new projector! I was happy with this projector for the most part but now, it's just amazing!


What do you have your contrast and brightness set to, that allows you to have the slider at 7 or 8? I did the update, and 7 or 8 is way too dark for me. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## cky2354

biglen said:


> What do you have your contrast and brightness set to, that allows you to have the slider at 7 or 8? I did the update, and 7 or 8 is way too dark for me.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My brightness is default at 50 but I did change the contrast to 60 per recommendation in here. My gamma is also at -2 (I do change this to -1 sometimes depending on content if it is already a dark movie). Everything else is untouched for now... but yes at first, I was leaning towards Natural Cinema (Eco mode) because it is much brighter but I realized that more I watch it in Digital Cinema... even though it is darker... it has more pop in colors and black level for me and I started to get used to it and now for any HDR content, I can only watch it in Digital Cinema and I have lamp at medium for this. I was also surprised by having the slider at much higher value as well since it wasn't like that before the firmware.

Maybe you just like it bright overall? I thought I did until I saw how much loss of detail it was having when I started to go lower. By the way, your screen captures are just simply amazing! It persuaded me to get the Epson 5050ub.


----------



## biglen

cky2354 said:


> My brightness is default at 50 but I did change the contrast to 60 per recommendation in here. My gamma is also at -2 (I do change this to -1 sometimes depending on content if it is already a dark movie). Everything else is untouched for now... but yes at first, I was leaning towards Natural Cinema (Eco mode) because it is much brighter but I realized that more I watch it in Digital Cinema... even though it is darker... it has more pop in colors and black level for me and I started to get used to it and now for any HDR content, I can only watch it in Digital Cinema and I have lamp at medium for this. I was also surprised by having the slider at much higher value as well since it wasn't like that before the firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you just like it bright overall? I thought I did until I saw how much loss of detail it was having when I started to go lower. By the way, your screen captures are just simply amazing! It persuaded me to get the Epson 5050ub.


My contrast is 50, so that's probably the difference. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## cky2354

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Hi I just order the epson 5050ub, I sold the optoma uhd65, currently I have a motorized 110 16:9 screen. What suggestions you have for 2:35.1 movies.?


Only option you would have is either lens shift up or down so that you will only have black bars on top or bottom depending on if you want the picture to be higher up or down more. Obviously this is not going to make the picture any bigger unfortunately. I had mine setup to go down since my screen was already kind of high and this helped not having to look up as much.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

cky2354 said:


> Only option you would have is either lens shift up or down so that you will only have black bars on top or bottom depending on if you want the picture to be higher up or down more. Obviously this is not going to make the picture any bigger unfortunately. I had mine setup to go down since my screen was already kind of high and this helped not having to look up as much.


Thanks for your reply. And what you do with the subtitles that are on the black bars? Usually I like to watch my movies with subtitles.


----------



## biglen

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Thanks for your reply. And what you do with the subtitles that are on the black bars? Usually I like to watch my movies with subtitles.


Any way you can do a painted screen? Then you don't have to worry about black bars. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## vagos1103gr1

biglen said:


> Any way you can do a painted screen? Then you don't have to worry about black bars.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My problem is I cant put a fixed screen because I am gonna block the window . Do you mean to paint my exist motorized 16:9 screen?


----------



## biglen

vagos1103gr1 said:


> My problem is I cant put a fixed screen because I am gonna block the window . Do you mean to paint my exist motorized 16:9 screen?


No, I thought maybe you had a full wall you could paint. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

@biglen that is something i never considered,if you do the wall the black bar becomes the wall.I doing a second house at end of the month and i will finally have a dedicated home media room.At present my audio system dictates where i sit and screen size.What i would like to know are you using any borders?


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> @biglen that is something i never considered,if you do the wall the black bar becomes the wall.I doing a second house at end of the month and i will finally have a dedicated home media room.At present my audio system dictates where i sit and screen size.What i would like to know are you using any borders?


No borders, just the entire wall paint with Black Flame Interstellar screen paint. The black bars just fade into the wall. If you really stare, you can faintly see them in some scenes. Here's my painted screen wall. I'm getting a 130" Scope image on the wall, and around 110" 16:9.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

@biglen Thanks. This clears up a lot of questions for me. Love the ceiling and drapes i can only imagine what kind of picture you are getting.I really want that scope at 130" when i start construction and will have probable more questions later.


----------



## ryudoadema

Malodium said:


> This is interesting. I have been using the Samsung glasses and despite everyone saying how great the 3D is on this projector, it just doesn't look very good to me. I guess I should go ahead and buy one of those Xpand X105 glasses and see if it makes it any better.



I've read several times that something like 1 in 4 or 1 in 3 can't see the 3d that tv/pjs display. I never believed that because I've never had anyone not be wowed by the 3d on my projectors over the years. Have you ever enjoyed 3d on any displays?

Also, it may help if you say exactly what doesn't look good about it. First though, make sure you watch a really good 3d flick. Pacific Rim, Avatar, Avengers Infinity War/Endgame or any newer Marvel movie really, Aquaman, Alita, Moana...


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> @biglen Thanks. This clears up a lot of questions for me. Love the ceiling and drapes i can only imagine what kind of picture you are getting.I really want that scope at 130" when i start construction and will have probable more questions later.


The picture is breath taking. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ShadowBoy

biglen said:


> The picture is breath taking.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


biglen, how did you get the sheetrock perfect so the tape lines don't show up when viewing movies? I could see them in my old set-up before I bought a screen.


----------



## biglen

ShadowBoy said:


> biglen, how did you get the sheetrock perfect so the tape lines don't show up when viewing movies? I could see them in my old set-up before I bought a screen.


If there's a really bright scene, I can faintly see them. I've pointed it out to people, and they don't even see them. If I watch 10 movies, I might notice it in 1 movie, in a couple bright scenes. The guy who calibrated my 5050, didn't even notice them. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

biglen said:


> My contrast is 50, so that's probably the difference.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Same here, and that's what seems to be generally recommended for HDR, including by the Spears & Munsil people. On a 135" diagonal 16:9 screen, I can't watch Digital Cinema at anything higher than 2 or 3. Given I get 100 nits max in Natural, and that just about fits the bill for "proper" HDR, I still stick with Natural, high lamp and slider about 7. I personally favour HDR "look" and pop over the better colour on some scenes. All personal preference of course.


----------



## gunlife

Uploading a nerdy 5050 video to youtube. People keep asking why i run the panasonic hdr-sdr conversion and iam going to try to show. Iam a fool and dont know a half as much as sone on here bit i did try to take my eyes out of the equation some and put a waveform into play. Should have a link for anyone interested later tonight


----------



## biglen

sddawson said:


> Same here, and that's what seems to be generally recommended for HDR, including by the Spears & Munsil people. On a 135" diagonal 16:9 screen, I can't watch Digital Cinema at anything higher than 2 or 3. Given I get 100 nits max in Natural, and that just about fits the bill for "proper" HDR, I still stick with Natural, high lamp and slider about 7. I personally favour HDR "look" and pop over the better colour on some scenes. All personal preference of course.


What is your source for HDR content? I mostly use a Shield to watch all my HDR rips. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

biglen said:


> What is your source for HDR content? I mostly use a Shield to watch all my HDR rips.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Panasonic 820 for UHD discs and Apple TV set to match dynamic range.


----------



## biglen

sddawson said:


> Panasonic 820 for UHD discs and Apple TV set to match dynamic range.


Hmmmmm. I wonder why I'm not seeing the increase in brightness? Like I said, 7 or 8 on the HDR slider, is WAY too dark. Do you let the 820 handle the tone mapping? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

biglen said:


> Hmmmmm. I wonder why I'm not seeing the increase in brightness? Like I said, 7 or 8 on the HDR slider, is WAY too dark. Do you let the 820 handle the tone mapping?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I think you may be asking the wrong person - I'm the guy who agrees with you! I've seen no increase in brightness. I run Natural high lamp at slider 7. Digital Cinema at high lamp I have to be at 2 or 3 to get the brightness, but then highlights get clipped. I use the 820 optimiser to tone map down to the 1000 nit target (so my slider can stay the same when I switch between sources). Contrast set to 50.


----------



## Northern_Lights

About to do the firmware update. I'm on a Mac. File I download from Epson has this filename:


EPSONPJ_H928YRC012.bin


File icon for it looks like a .zip file. When I double-click to extract, it extracts this:


EPSONPJ_H928YRC012.bin.cpgz


Which one of these, if either, is the one I should put on my USB drive?


----------



## Chris Corcoran

When the firmware of 1.p3 is installed I assume in the projector info option from the menu the last 3 digits are 103? Meaning I installed it correctly? I forgot to check if 1.01 was there prior.


----------



## sddawson

Northern_Lights said:


> About to do the firmware update. I'm on a Mac. File I download from Epson has this filename:
> 
> 
> EPSONPJ_H928YRC012.bin
> 
> 
> File icon for it looks like a .zip file. When I double-click to extract, it extracts this:
> 
> 
> EPSONPJ_H928YRC012.bin.cpgz
> 
> 
> Which one of these, if either, is the one I should put on my USB drive?


You want the .bin file (and yes, its icon looks like a zip file). I'm not sure why you get the .cpgz file when you double-click it.


----------



## sddawson

Chris Corcoran said:


> When the firmware of 1.p3 is installed I assume in the projector info option from the menu the last 3 digits are 103? Meaning I installed it correctly? I forgot to check if 1.01 was there prior.


Yes, you should see two entries that end with 103.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Chris Corcoran said:


> When the firmware of 1.p3 is installed I assume in the projector info option from the menu the last 3 digits are 103? Meaning I installed it correctly? I forgot to check if 1.01 was there prior.


You are correct

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

I’ve decided I will:
- leave Natural for SDR
- calibrate Bright Cinema for HDR movies
- leave Dynamic for HDR games

The dynamic iris in dynamic picture mode is just unusable at the moment. I bet you Epson made it more aggressive so they can put a higher contrast ratio number for the next unit. What use is it if it’s unusable? Anyway, I don’t use the iris for gaming so no biggie for that.

Bright cinema will allow me to use both dynamic and manual iris for better control of light hitting the screen. More to come.  

Question: how do you guys get the colour brightness / luminance values dialled in under the gamut control (for HDR)? I’ve tried a few methods and I’m not satisfied they work well for projectors. I’ve seen people push the control to almost max to fix the low luminance of colours but I don’t think that is correct as it creates artefacts. For flat panels this is very clear to me. For projectors, I don’t think even using 50% luminance patterns is actually appropriate. Any thoughts?


----------



## Malodium

ryudoadema said:


> I've read several times that something like 1 in 4 or 1 in 3 can't see the 3d that tv/pjs display. I never believed that because I've never had anyone not be wowed by the 3d on my projectors over the years. Have you ever enjoyed 3d on any displays?
> 
> Also, it may help if you say exactly what doesn't look good about it. First though, make sure you watch a really good 3d flick. Pacific Rim, Avatar, Avengers Infinity War/Endgame or any newer Marvel movie really, Aquaman, Alita, Moana...



I can see the 3D ok. I can see it fine on my TV also. It's difficult to explain why it doesn't look good though. When I watch it without 3D, its like I can take in the entire image and see it as like, a painting or something. When I watch the 3D version its like my brain cannot focus on anything other than the 3D objects and the rest of the image seems like it sort of disappears a bit. It's a very slight thing, but that's as best as I can describe it.


Also, there does seem to be a motion issue where still scenes look a lot better, but a scene with a lot of movement has some sort of judder, moving objects seem to shimmer or something and I can't focus on them very well.


Might just be my brain, but ill order a set of those other glasses and see if that helps at all.


----------



## gunlife

Ok guys I made this horribly rambling video comparing Epson tone mapping and the Panasonic 420/820 HDR-SDR conversion. I completely lost my train of thought once I turned on the mic. Sorry I didn't do a retake of some of it.

This is in no way a perfect comparison nor do I claim to be a expert!

This isn't the best way to do this what so ever but for the tools I have I do believe the video will help show what I am trying to convey.

Also yes you can calibrate these a million different ways! This is just how I enjoy watching my setup.

Not advised unless you are a major geek btw. 

May take a few before the HD quality is available for stream.


----------



## ryudoadema

Malodium said:


> I can see the 3D ok. I can see it fine on my TV also. It's difficult to explain why it doesn't look good though. When I watch it without 3D, its like I can take in the entire image and see it as like, a painting or something. When I watch the 3D version its like my brain cannot focus on anything other than the 3D objects and the rest of the image seems like it sort of disappears a bit. It's a very slight thing, but that's as best as I can describe it.
> 
> Also, there does seem to be a motion issue where still scenes look a lot better, but a scene with a lot of movement has some sort of judder, moving objects seem to shimmer or something and I can't focus on them very well.
> 
> Might just be my brain, but ill order a set of those other glasses and see if that helps at all.



Hmm, gotcha. Several people have commented to me that they can't focus on the background and that it stays blurry. I explain that is how movies are shot with only certain things usually meant to be in focus, and very few films are in infinite focus. It's just more noticeable in 3d, because like real life you expect something to become clear when you shift focus onto it. It would be more realistic to not have artificial blur from the camera in 3d movies, because our eyes automatically cause blur on anything we are not focusing on. This probably isn't what you mean since you say it's fine on your tv.

Actually, maybe it's just the fact that when you focus on one layer all other layers go out of focus like in real life? A 2d image is all on one plane so all in focus at once. Maybe on a large screen pj the effect is multiplied vs a smaller tv where it might not be so noticeable.

Also, could it just be the dimness? What size screen do you have?

Sorry for the not very concise explanations, it's a difficult thing to convey...


----------



## Porknz

I keep reading about a 1.03 update for the 5050ub, but when I click on the links I find here, it brings to me a page of weekly specials. What am I missing?


Thanks.


----------



## sddawson

gunlife said:


> Ok guys I made this horribly rambling video comparing Epson tone mapping and the Panasonic 420/820 HDR-SDR conversion. I completely lost my train of thought once I turned on the mic. Sorry I didn't do a retake of some of it.
> 
> This is in no way a perfect comparison nor do I claim to be a expert!
> 
> This isn't the best way to do this what so ever but for the tools I have I do believe the video will help show what I am trying to convey.
> 
> Also yes you can calibrate these a million different ways! This is just how I enjoy watching my setup.
> 
> Not advised unless you are a major geek btw.
> 
> May take a few before the HD quality is available for stream.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LMHYqPJbrM&feature=youtu.be


Thanks for that. May I ask if you've independently calibrated at least the brightness on your SDR and HDR modes to some test patterns? And maybe contrast for the SDR mode?


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> I’ve decided I will:
> - leave Natural for SDR
> - calibrate Bright Cinema for HDR movies
> - leave Dynamic for HDR games
> 
> The dynamic iris in dynamic picture mode is just unusable at the moment. I bet you Epson made it more aggressive so they can put a higher contrast ratio number for the next unit. What use is it if it’s unusable? Anyway, I don’t use the iris for gaming so no biggie for that.
> 
> Bright cinema will allow me to use both dynamic and manual iris for better control of light hitting the screen. More to come.
> 
> Question: how do you guys get the colour brightness / luminance values dialled in under the gamut control (for HDR)? I’ve tried a few methods and I’m not satisfied they work well for projectors. I’ve seen people push the control to almost max to fix the low luminance of colours but I don’t think that is correct as it creates artefacts. For flat panels this is very clear to me. For projectors, I don’t think even using 50% luminance patterns is actually appropriate. Any thoughts?




Wow, I just popped in to post on this topic and here you already have. 


I just started having luminance issues that I did not have before I started messing with Dynamic mode. I had solid results prior to spending a few days messing with Dynamic ( what has transpired  ). 

Is it possible that just a few days of Dynamic mode (a good bit in High Lamp and the rest in Medium) has had that much of an impact on my ~880 hour lamp (if so I have never seen that happen, so suddenly, in 20 years of front projection use). 

I cannot seem to get solid luminance values from any mode now no matter what combination of settings I use, this is concerning. 



- Jason


----------



## anilrao

Northern_Lights said:


> About to do the firmware update. I'm on a Mac. File I download from Epson has this filename:
> 
> 
> EPSONPJ_H928YRC012.bin
> 
> 
> File icon for it looks like a .zip file. When I double-click to extract, it extracts this:
> 
> 
> EPSONPJ_H928YRC012.bin.cpgz
> 
> 
> Which one of these, if either, is the one I should put on my USB drive?


Don’t unzip it. Just put the bin file on the flash drive.


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Iâ€™️ve decided I will:
> - leave Natural for SDR
> - calibrate Bright Cinema for HDR movies
> - leave Dynamic for HDR games
> 
> The dynamic iris in dynamic picture mode is just unusable at the moment. I bet you Epson made it more aggressive so they can put a higher contrast ratio number for the next unit. What use is it if itâ€™️s unusable? Anyway, I donâ€™️t use the iris for gaming so no biggie for that.
> 
> Bright cinema will allow me to use both dynamic and manual iris for better control of light hitting the screen. More to come. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> Question: how do you guys get the colour brightness / luminance values dialled in under the gamut control (for HDR)? Iâ€™️ve tried a few methods and Iâ€™️m not satisfied they work well for projectors. Iâ€™️ve seen people push the control to almost max to fix the low luminance of colours but I donâ€™️t think that is correct as it creates artefacts. For flat panels this is very clear to me. For projectors, I donâ€™️t think even using 50% luminance patterns is actually appropriate. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, I just popped in to post on this topic and here you already have. /forum/images/smilies/eek.gif
> 
> 
> I just started having luminance issues that I did not have before I started messing with Dynamic mode. I had solid results prior to spending a few days messing with Dynamic ( what has transpired /forum/images/smilies/confused.gif ).
> 
> Is it possible that just a few days of Dynamic mode (a good bit in High Lamp and the rest in Medium) has had that much of an impact on my ~880 hour lamp (if so I have never seen that happen, so suddenly, in 20 years of front projection use). /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif
> 
> I cannot seem to get solid luminance values from any mode now no matter what combination of settings I use, this is concerning. /forum/images/smilies/mad.gif
> 
> 
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

Hehe! Great minds think alike? 😉

Well, it’s funny because one of the reviewers mentioned this as an issue with the original firmware too. He then proceeded to pull the brightness value down. Colour me confused but I have been using his brightness values and not messing with it OR setting them using a pattern to make sure there was no crush under 1000nits. However, neither is ideal.

Unfortunately, to set the values properly, I think we would need a pattern that provides something like 10% white (around 100nits) and the same luminance for the other colours. The patterns that use 100% or even 50% luminance with a 1000nit encode just don’t work.

I’m using HCFR with external patterns. I don’t have a way to generate HDR patterns using my virtual machine under my Mac.


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> Hehe! Great minds think alike? 😉
> 
> Well, it’s funny because one of the reviewers mentioned this as an issue with the original firmware too. He then proceeded to pull the brightness value down. Colour me confused but I have been using his brightness values and not messing with it OR setting them using a pattern to make sure there was no crush under 1000nits. However, neither is ideal.
> 
> Unfortunately, to set the values properly, I think we would need a pattern that provides something like 10% white (around 100nits) and the same luminance for the other colours. The patterns that use 100% or even 50% luminance with a 1000nit encode just don’t work.
> 
> I’m using HCFR with external patterns. I don’t have a way to generate HDR patterns using my virtual machine under my Mac.


Ah, if only I still had enough of a mind to call great. 

I am generating HDR via a TPG with full triplet support + HDFury Integral (CalMan 2020).

I also have a Lumagen Radiance that can be used as a TPG but it doesn't have full custom pattern generation support.

I can create a fairly large number of patterns via my TPG so I'll do some experimenting and hope for some progress.

- Jason


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hehe! Great minds think alike? 😉
> 
> Well, itâ€™️s funny because one of the reviewers mentioned this as an issue with the original firmware too. He then proceeded to pull the brightness value down. Colour me confused but I have been using his brightness values and not messing with it OR setting them using a pattern to make sure there was no crush under 1000nits. However, neither is ideal.
> 
> Unfortunately, to set the values properly, I think we would need a pattern that provides something like 10% white (around 100nits) and the same luminance for the other colours. The patterns that use 100% or even 50% luminance with a 1000nit encode just donâ€™️t work.
> 
> Iâ€™️m using HCFR with external patterns. I donâ€™️t have a way to generate HDR patterns using my virtual machine under my Mac.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, if only I still had enough of a mind to call great. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> I am generating HDR via a TPG with full triplet support + HDFury Integral (CalMan 2020).
> 
> I also have a Lumagen Radiance that can be used as a TPG but it doesn't have full custom pattern generation support.
> 
> I can create a fairly large number of patterns via my TPG so I'll do some experimenting and hope for some progress.
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

Cool! Let us know how you go! If you get to somewhere sensible we may be able to use your settings. I might be shot for saying that but that’s ok 😉


----------



## Luminated67

ShadowBoy said:


> biglen, how did you get the sheetrock perfect so the tape lines don't show up when viewing movies? I could see them in my old set-up before I bought a screen.


The only way to guarantee it is the plaster the entire wall like how we finish timber frame houses over here in the UK. If only one wall this would be relatively cheap to get a plasterer in the do the job like as @biglen said the vast majority can't even see it so unless it's a poorly finished job originally you might not need worry.


----------



## Terence

gunlife said:


> Ok guys I made this horribly rambling video comparing Epson tone mapping and the Panasonic 420/820 HDR-SDR conversion. I completely lost my train of thought once I turned on the mic. Sorry I didn't do a retake of some of it.
> 
> This is in no way a perfect comparison nor do I claim to be a expert!
> 
> This isn't the best way to do this what so ever but for the tools I have I do believe the video will help show what I am trying to convey.
> 
> Also yes you can calibrate these a million different ways! This is just how I enjoy watching my setup.
> 
> Not advised unless you are a major geek btw.
> 
> May take a few before the HD quality is available for stream.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LMHYqPJbrM&feature=youtu.be



Excellent presentation of what I see in my home theater when using the 820’s SDR-HDR BT:2020 conversion for my 6050! The Panny does a better job with nighttime and darker scenes, shadow detail is very evident. Also like you this is my opinion and so many variables folks MWV, I appreciate you taking the time to do this comparison. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cky2354

gunlife said:


> Ok guys I made this horribly rambling video comparing Epson tone mapping and the Panasonic 420/820 HDR-SDR conversion. I completely lost my train of thought once I turned on the mic. Sorry I didn't do a retake of some of it.
> 
> This is in no way a perfect comparison nor do I claim to be a expert!
> 
> This isn't the best way to do this what so ever but for the tools I have I do believe the video will help show what I am trying to convey.
> 
> Also yes you can calibrate these a million different ways! This is just how I enjoy watching my setup.
> 
> Not advised unless you are a major geek btw.
> 
> May take a few before the HD quality is available for stream.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LMHYqPJbrM&feature=youtu.be


Not sure if it is just me but it seems like Epson is doing a better job with HDR? I mean... when I am looking at your video comparison, one on the right has more pop, more contrast, and better blacks overall. Only when you go to those extremely dark parts of the movie, Panasonic does a better job than the Epson. But for me if this is the case, I would let my Epson do the tone mapping. I know your comments say they are very close but your videos clearly show it isn't. Am I the only one seeing this? I know watching a youtube video of a video comparison is not ideal but you seem to have done an excellent job! Thank you so much for this. I know this takes lots of time and we appreciate all the effort you put in. I wonder for dark scenes, sliding the HDR slider down couple notches will help. I know it is not ideal but this way will let you have best of both maybe.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> The only way to guarantee it is the plaster the entire wall like how we finish timber frame houses over here in the UK. If only one wall this would be relatively cheap to get a plasterer in the do the job like as @biglen said the vast majority can't even see it so unless it's a poorly finished job originally you might not need worry.


Yeah, whoever refinished my basement, wasn't that great with the seams. I didn't notice them until there was a really bright scene, but when I went up to the wall, I could actually feel exactly where they were. That being said, I rarely see them, so in order to always see them, it would have to be a really horrible job. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Manu9

So I finally received it last night, still not done checking the settings etc, but since I have the middle eastern version, the website only lists 1.02 - Can I use another version or do I have to wait?


----------



## gunlife

cky2354 said:


> Not sure if it is just me but it seems like Epson is doing a better job with HDR? I mean... when I am looking at your video comparison, one on the right has more pop, more contrast, and better blacks overall. Only when you go to those extremely dark parts of the movie, Panasonic does a better job than the Epson. But for me if this is the case, I would let my Epson do the tone mapping. I know your comments say they are very close but your videos clearly show it isn't. Am I the only one seeing this? I know watching a youtube video of a video comparison is not ideal but you seem to have done an excellent job! Thank you so much for this. I know this takes lots of time and we appreciate all the effort you put in. I wonder for dark scenes, sliding the HDR slider down couple notches will help. I know it is not ideal but this way will let you have best of both maybe.


Epson with the 1.03 is doing much better than before for sure. I agree its only in the very low ADL scenes that the Panasonic does a noticeably better job. 

Obviously I agree its not the best seeing a video compressed to hell. The idea is to look at the Waveform more than the picture ( you can see difference in the scene with the naked eye) 

If you were able to get something out of it that is what I did it for. I have read off these forum for years and offered nothing. Hoped I could maybe help someone else out.

I am not smart enough to do it. But someone could definitely setup a gamma curve to beat both of these IMO


----------



## JonfromCB

Funny 5050 story. Salesman at Nebraska Furniture Mart calls and tells me they "found" a 5050 in their warehouse so I wouldn't have to wait for a special order to arrive. I go the warehouse, the stockman puts the box in my trunk and I go home. I open the trunk and think this box is really small and light compared to any of my previous PJs. When I examined the box it has neon green stickers on it that say" 5050ub Epson Dummy Display Projector" and "Projector Display Unit". It's essentially a non-functional 5050 with no innards. Even goofier, when I called them they tried to claim I bought a "floor model"...even though it was in a unopened box in their warehouse. It was almost too stupid not to laugh. I told them they sold me a model alright, but sure not a "floor model". I hope this gets straightened out soon.


----------



## cky2354

gunlife said:


> Epson with the 1.03 is doing much better than before for sure. I agree its only in the very low ADL scenes that the Panasonic does a noticeably better job.
> 
> Obviously I agree its not the best seeing a video compressed to hell. The idea is to look at the Waveform more than the picture ( you can see difference in the scene with the naked eye)
> 
> If you were able to get something out of it that is what I did it for. I have read off these forum for years and offered nothing. Hoped I could maybe help someone else out.
> 
> I am not smart enough to do it. But someone could definitely setup a gamma curve to beat both of these IMO


You are lot smarter than I am when it comes to this stuff! I wouldn't even know where to start and I'm an engineer. Haha. One thing for sure though, you were able to prove that the both Epson and Panasonic handles HDR slightly different and the outcome indeed is not the same like some people on here were suggesting after the firmware update. I just wish that Epson was better all across the spectrum and then it would be clear who to let decipher the HDR contents. I'm thinking based on your comparison, I probably leave it to the Epson do it. Besides, I usually watch most of my HDR content thru the Apple TV since it's more convenient than to pull out the 4k UHD blu-ray versions of them. Thank you so much for doing the video... I'm sure many on here appreciate it.

On that note... watched Avatar in 3D last night and it was just amazing on this thing. I think for me, 3D wins over 4K HDR if there is a 3D version of the movie. To give my eyes and nose a break (These Xpand glasses are bit heavy and hurts my nose)... started to watch rest in 2D and it was so bland.... of course this movie doesn't have 4K HDR version but if there was one... I don't think it can compare to the 3D.


----------



## gunlife

sddawson said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that. May I ask if you've independently calibrated at least the brightness on your SDR and HDR modes to some test patterns? And maybe contrast for the SDR mode?
> 
> 
> 
> To make this comparison even I just reset everything. Both used digital cinema with the gamma at -2.
> 
> I have done the brightness calibrations. I still could never get the Epson tone mapping as good in low adl scenes. I am not saying it can't be done!
Click to expand...


----------



## gunlife

cky2354 said:


> gunlife said:
> 
> 
> 
> You are lot smarter than I am when it comes to this stuff! I wouldn't even know where to start and I'm an engineer. Haha. One thing for sure though, you were able to prove that the both Epson and Panasonic handles HDR slightly different and the outcome indeed is not the same like some people on here were suggesting after the firmware update. I just wish that Epson was better all across the spectrum and then it would be clear who to let decipher the HDR contents. I'm thinking based on your comparison, I probably leave it to the Epson do it. Besides, I usually watch most of my HDR content thru the Apple TV since it's more convenient than to pull out the 4k UHD blu-ray versions of them. Thank you so much for doing the video... I'm sure many on here appreciate it.
> 
> On that note... watched Avatar in 3D last night and it was just amazing on this thing. I think for me, 3D wins over 4K HDR if there is a 3D version of the movie. To give my eyes and nose a break (These Xpand glasses are bit heavy and hurts my nose)... started to watch rest in 2D and it was so bland.... of course this movie doesn't have 4K HDR version but if there was one... I don't think it can compare to the 3D.
> 
> 
> 
> The one movie that made me switch to using the panasonic was JOKER. Lots of very dark scenes with high contrast ratios on faces. The Epson really struggled. I kept changing the slider mid movie.
> 
> 10000% agree about 3d. If 3d is done properly its a much more immersive experience. Very sad they are fading 3d out! We just have to enjoy it while we still can!
Click to expand...


----------



## acosmichippo

Hey guys,

Does anyone have issues with flickering in eco mode? I recently changed mine to eco mode from normal and started noticing bad flickering. I did some googling and saw a couple other epson users mention this is a known issue, but not on the 5050 specifically.

I would just turn it back to normal mode, but I only have a few days left before the return window expires.


----------



## noob00224

acosmichippo said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Does anyone have issues with flickering in eco mode? I recently changed mine to eco mode from normal and started noticing bad flickering. I did some googling and saw a couple other epson users mention this is a known issue, but not on the 5050 specifically.
> 
> I would just turn it back to normal mode, but I only have a few days left before the return window expires.



I would return it, but flicker happens often. Keep the lamp in High mode for the first 100h and every now and then:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ng-projector-bulb-flicker-3.html#post57363110


----------



## skylarlove1999

acosmichippo said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have issues with flickering in eco mode? I recently changed mine to eco mode from normal and started noticing bad flickering. I did some googling and saw a couple other epson users mention this is a known issue, but not on the 5050 specifically.
> 
> 
> 
> I would just turn it back to normal mode, but I only have a few days left before the return window expires.


Watch in high lamp for about an hour. If you describe when the flickering occurs we could help you narrow down. Could just be the Iris working. Flickering can also be the sign of a bad bulb. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## acosmichippo

It seems to happen consistently after 5-10 minutes powered on. Doesn't matter what's connected or what content is playing, it happens even if no source is connected. Verified it happens on multiple outlets and surge protectors.

I had it set to normal mode for most of the 3 months I've had it and only changed it to eco mode about a week ago. Unfortunately I had already taken it down to send back before it occurred to me to check if flickering is related to eco mode. Maybe I'll just hook it up on a table to test tonight.

Only reason I'm hesitant to return it is because I got it renewed for $2400 and it's been great apart from this flickering. So if I'm just going to have the same issue with a $2800 new one then I'd just assume keep it and stick to normal mode.


----------



## noob00224

acosmichippo said:


> It seems to happen consistently after 5-10 minutes powered on. Doesn't matter what's connected or what content is playing, it happens even if no source is connected. Verified it happens on multiple outlets and surge protectors.
> 
> I had it set to normal mode for most of the 3 months I've had it and only changed it to eco mode about a week ago. Unfortunately I had already taken it down to send back before it occurred to me to check if flickering is related to eco mode. Maybe I'll just hook it up on a table to test tonight.
> 
> Only reason I'm hesitant to return it is because I got it renewed for $2400 and it's been great apart from this flickering. So if I'm just going to have the same issue with a more expensive new one then I'd just assume keep it and stick to normal mode.



Changing the lamp can fix it, but as I mentioned above keep on High for the first 100h.

Keep in mind that lamps have different warranties from the projector itself. Some brands only offer 90 days. and that's with an original lamp.


----------



## acosmichippo

I've already used it more than 100h, so it is what it is at this point.


----------



## covsound1

acosmichippo said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Does anyone have issues with flickering in eco mode? I recently changed mine to eco mode from normal and started noticing bad flickering. I did some googling and saw a couple other epson users mention this is a known issue, but not on the 5050 specifically.
> 
> I would just turn it back to normal mode, but I only have a few days left before the return window expires.


This happen too me.Even though i know better and i should have broke in the lamp in hi mode.Good news the projector is fine as well as the lamp.Just run it in high mode for an hour or so and switch back to norm. You should be fine. Eco runs low amps that is really not in the lamps specs,most people that run eco have started that way from the jump. It all has to do with arc tips sharp or dull not being even to each other this cause the flicker after your balist becomes dry(10 mn). Hope this helps.


----------



## Luminated67

noob00224 said:


> I would return it, but flicker happens often. Keep the lamp in High mode for the first 100h and every now and then:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ng-projector-bulb-flicker-3.html#post57363110


Genuinely I’ve never had my bulb in high mode, in fact the vast majority of my 460hrs have been in ECO mode with I reckon less than 40 hrs of that in middle mode and I have never experienced flicker. 

I reckon it’s a bulb issue rather than a problem inherit with the machines themselves.


----------



## covsound1

@gunlife just watch you youtube video it was great.We need more of that.Also like the fact you did not put your foot down.


----------



## Luminated67

cky2354 said:


> Not sure if it is just me but it seems like Epson is doing a better job with HDR? I mean... when I am looking at your video comparison, one on the right has more pop, more contrast, and better blacks overall. Only when you go to those extremely dark parts of the movie, Panasonic does a better job than the Epson. But for me if this is the case, I would let my Epson do the tone mapping. I know your comments say they are very close but your videos clearly show it isn't. Am I the only one seeing this? I know watching a youtube video of a video comparison is not ideal but you seem to have done an excellent job! Thank you so much for this. I know this takes lots of time and we appreciate all the effort you put in. I wonder for dark scenes, sliding the HDR slider down couple notches will help. I know it is not ideal but this way will let you have best of both maybe.


I full get both opinion here, yours and @gunlife. With the actual explosions the Epson’s HDR does have a greater variation of not only highlights but detail and colours (of course my opinion) but when the scenes got really dark and it needs to be really dark to notice the UB420 on SDR 2020 offers more highlights and detail in the shadows. 

It’s really which compromise do you prefer most. 🤔

P.S. One thing it does show is just how good a job the Epson actually is and folk shouldn’t feel they have to race out and buy the Panasonic to improve things because unless you already owned one the differences are too small to truly justify the expense IMO.


----------



## gunlife

Luminated67 said:


> cky2354 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I full get both opinion here, yours and @gunlife. With the actual explosions the Epsonâ€™️s HDR does have a greater variation of not only highlights but detail and colours (of course my opinion) but when the scenes got really dark and it needs to be really dark to notice the UB420 on SDR 2020 offers more highlights and detail in the shadows.
> 
> Itâ€™️s really which compromise do you prefer most. ðŸ¤”
> 
> 
> 
> I am considering a per picture scenario. For horror movies or movies like JOKER use the hdr-sdr. For something like Aquaman that really goes for blinding highlights let the Epson handle it.
> 
> Either way if you own a Epson 5050 you have a better cinema presentation than 99% of people out there.
Click to expand...


----------



## sddawson

Luminated67 said:


> I full get both opinion here, yours and @gunlife. With the actual explosions the Epson’s HDR does have a greater variation of not only highlights but detail and colours (of course my opinion) but when the scenes got really dark and it needs to be really dark to notice the UB420 on SDR 2020 offers more highlights and detail in the shadows.
> 
> It’s really which compromise do you prefer most. 🤔
> 
> P.S. One thing it does show is just how good a job the Epson actually is and folk shouldn’t feel they have to race out and buy the Panasonic to improve things because unless you already owned one the differences are too small to truly justify the expense IMO.


I think the one thing the Panasonic still has up its sleeve is the optimiser. It is disc metadata-aware, and so can “normalise”, say, 1000 and 4000 nit titles. Otherwise, it’s probable you’d be playing with that HDR slider a lot more.


----------



## Hawkmarket

For 3D I purchased the XPand Vision 3D Glasses Lite RF and am not getting them to sync. I have a pair of Epson's that work just fine but I'm not having any luck with the Xpand's. Are these not compatible or is there a magic formula to connecting these things besides what the instructions say?


----------



## cky2354

Hawkmarket said:


> For 3D I purchased the XPand Vision 3D Glasses Lite RF and am not getting them to sync. I have a pair of Epson's that work just fine but I'm not having any luck with the Xpand's. Are these not compatible or is there a magic formula to connecting these things besides what the instructions say?


Yeah... I had to figure these out too. What I did is first turn it on and you can tell by the red led light coming on. Then I hold the power button till the red light starts to blink slow...keep holding it till it blinks faster which is trying to sync at this point. After that, it should have sync with your projector and that's the only time you have to do it. After that, it works every time by just turning it on. I had to do 4 Xpand glasses in last couple days so I know this works.

I just watched another 3D movie tonight and even the though the 3D was mild, on the big screen, it was so much better than the 2D still. I'm tempted to re-watch all the movies I watched lately in 4K HDR in 3D again. The settings recommended by other users here and plus the Xpand glasses really make the crosstalk and ghosting a non-issue for me now. What a game changer! 

By the way, can you compare the Xpand to your Epson 3D glasses when you get it to work. I ordered the Epson ones from ebay that's going to be here in a month and wanted to see how they compared.


----------



## mauro145

Those of you who are using hdfury devices to get lldv, would you mind sharing the edid you are using with me? I have the drhdmi4k so I can only change the edid entirely.

Thanks

Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Luminated67 said:


> Genuinely I’ve never had my bulb in high mode, in fact the vast majority of my 460hrs have been in ECO mode with I reckon less than 40 hrs of that in middle mode and I have never experienced flicker.
> 
> I reckon it’s a bulb issue rather than a problem inherit with the machines themselves.


If it's an defect and not a byproduct of a feature (i.e. iris) then it could be other components like with 1080p Sony, or contacts that need to be cleaned. Most of the time it's the lamp itself.


----------



## covsound1

sddawson said:


> I think the one thing the Panasonic still has up its sleeve is the optimiser. It is disc metadata-aware, and so can “normalise”, say, 1000 and 4000 nit titles. Otherwise, it’s probable you’d be playing with that HDR slider a lot more.


My gripe with all this was not the hdr highlights but the color.To me the only way to really do sdr bt2020 right and if it was optimized for and anything below 1000 nits was to have a calibrator do it for you.I would say the magic number as you stated above 1000-1500.I have found lately i could use the slider at 1 for low apl or dark movies and put back my gamma by dropping brightness.(38-45).The point I find you really have to use the slider with the brightness control together.I am used to making adjustments for each movie even with sdr this is just the price we pay for having that big projected image :frown:


----------



## Hawkmarket

cky2354 said:


> Yeah... I had to figure these out too. What I did is first turn it on and you can tell by the red led light coming on. Then I hold the power button till the red light starts to blink slow...keep holding it till it blinks faster which is trying to sync at this point. After that, it should have sync with your projector and that's the only time you have to do it. After that, it works every time by just turning it on. I had to do 4 Xpand glasses in last couple days so I know this works.
> 
> I just watched another 3D movie tonight and even the though the 3D was mild, on the big screen, it was so much better than the 2D still. I'm tempted to re-watch all the movies I watched lately in 4K HDR in 3D again. The settings recommended by other users here and plus the Xpand glasses really make the crosstalk and ghosting a non-issue for me now. What a game changer!
> 
> By the way, can you compare the Xpand to your Epson 3D glasses when you get it to work. I ordered the Epson ones from ebay that's going to be here in a month and wanted to see how they compared.



I felt like I tried every combo possible with the power button but I'll give that a whirl before I send them back.


----------



## alangsk

At what point in the lamp life is the right time for professional calibration? After 100 hours, before 100 hours?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

alangsk said:


> At what point in the lamp life is the right time for professional calibration? After 100 hours, before 100 hours?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


100 hours should be enough for the lamp to stabilize. Some calibrators say only 50 are needed. Definitely not before 50 hours. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

mauro145 said:


> Those of you who are using hdfury devices to get lldv, would you mind sharing the edid you are using with me? I have the drhdmi4k so I can only change the edid entirely.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


I know it's posted somewhere in the calibration area of AVS, I recall reading it (sorry I don't have the direct thread but a search should turn it up).  

I didn't have to manually change the Integral EDID since CalMan will control the Integral and push the required data once a couple boxes are checked in the HDfury GUI.




alangsk said:


> At what point in the lamp life is the right time for professional calibration? After 100 hours, before 100 hours?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Should be 100 hours (after running in High lamp to set the Arc) and keep in mind that lamp based projectors can shift after a few hundred hours (give or take). 

This is not a knock against ISF/THX professional calibrators (the industry absolutely needs them, I initially learned from a friend who was one) but projectors are the perfect excuse to learn DIY calibration. 


- Jason


----------



## covsound1

DaGamePimp said:


> I know it's posted somewhere in the calibration area of AVS, I recall reading it (sorry I don't have the direct thread but a search should turn it up).
> 
> I didn't have to manually change the Integral EDID since CalMan will control the Integral and push the required data once a couple boxes are checked in the HDfury GUI.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be 100 hours (after running in High lamp to set the Arc) and keep in mind that lamp based projectors can shift after a few hundred hours (give or take).
> 
> This is not a knock against ISF/THX professional calibrators (the industry absolutely needs them, I initially learned from a friend who was one) but projectors are the perfect excuse to learn DIY calibration.
> 
> 
> - Jason


This explains why i find your 2 point grey scale so pleasing. As most new lamps dont have developed reds.


----------



## rollon1980

acosmichippo said:


> It seems to happen consistently after 5-10 minutes powered on. Doesn't matter what's connected or what content is playing, it happens even if no source is connected. Verified it happens on multiple outlets and surge protectors.
> 
> I had it set to normal mode for most of the 3 months I've had it and only changed it to eco mode about a week ago. Unfortunately I had already taken it down to send back before it occurred to me to check if flickering is related to eco mode. Maybe I'll just hook it up on a table to test tonight.
> 
> Only reason I'm hesitant to return it is because I got it renewed for $2400 and it's been great apart from this flickering. So if I'm just going to have the same issue with a $2800 new one then I'd just assume keep it and stick to normal mode.


Had that issue in eco mode. It was the lamp which they replaced under warranty.

It’s a good idea to get a spare lamp. It’s cheap anyways. I started using my spare lamp when the original was returned for testing. Cheers!


----------



## amdar

After updating to 1.03 firmware, I am seeing HDMI handshake issue between Epson and Denon 4300. It is happening randomly. I am using Monoprice 50ft fibre optic HDMI cable.
I never experienced any HDMI handshake issue before 1.03. 


Any one having similar issue after 1.03 update?


----------



## rollon1980

So after doing some more calibration, here’s some conclusions on my unit:

- bright cinema is the worst of the lot. The gamma is just crazy and can’t be fully corrected with the gamma controls. I find bright cinema worse in this firmware actually. Near black especially but also blown out in SDR in the higher ranges too. Yuk yuk! 
- Natural is actually pretty good in that they aligned the SDR and HDR gamuts closer (and actually made the SDR gamut worse so the charts look crazy bad on green but dE is not that bad). 
- the new HDR gamut will respond better with BT2020 when beyond P3 colours are used more frequently so it’s more future proof. (It kind of takes a right turn into neon greens after 50% stimulus which is what they recommend for future proof tone mapping with limited gamut capability)
- Natural near-black gamma is really great and actually improved over previous firmware hence some report seeing more contrast and better black levels I think. The auto iris is slightly more aggressive too with better gamma re-mapping. Very noticeable in dark stuff like Game of Thrones.

Anyway, natural is the best to calibrate for HDR and after that, funnily enough, Dynamic. Natural gives great contrast while Dynamic is great when LOTS of light is needed. I prefer Dynamic for gaming (without the iris) as it gives a much larger colour volume and for movies like Aquaman with heaps of very bright scenes. 

Anyway, that’s my findings. Forget trying to calibrate Bright Cinema. 😞 Ugh!


----------



## rollon1980

I guess I didn’t explain why lining up of SDR and HDR gamut’s in natural is important. Well, the HDR gamut kind of works even without calibration so if you have the Epson in Natural, it will auto-switch and you don’t have to worry about it too much, you could align the gamuts and not use memories.

Of course except, near black compensation would need to be done in the Blu ray player and not under the picture mode.


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> So after doing some more calibration, here’s some conclusions on my unit:
> 
> - bright cinema is the worst of the lot. The gamma is just crazy and can’t be fully corrected with the gamma controls. I find bright cinema worse in this firmware actually. Near black especially but also blown out in SDR in the higher ranges too. Yuk yuk!
> - Natural is actually pretty good in that they aligned the SDR and HDR gamuts closer (and actually made the SDR gamut worse so the charts look crazy bad on green but dE is not that bad).
> - the new HDR gamut will respond better with BT2020 when beyond P3 colours are used more frequently so it’s more future proof. (It kind of takes a right turn into neon greens after 50% stimulus which is what they recommend for future proof tone mapping with limited gamut capability)
> - Natural near-black gamma is really great and actually improved over previous firmware hence some report seeing more contrast and better black levels I think. The auto iris is slightly more aggressive too with better gamma re-mapping. Very noticeable in dark stuff like Game of Thrones.
> 
> Anyway, natural is the best to calibrate for HDR and after that, funnily enough, Dynamic. Natural gives great contrast while Dynamic is great when LOTS of light is needed. I prefer Dynamic for gaming (without the iris) as it gives a much larger colour volume and for movies like Aquaman with heaps of very bright scenes.
> 
> Anyway, that’s my findings. Forget trying to calibrate Bright Cinema. 😞 Ugh!


Bright cinema is a mess happy you said it. Have you tried b&w cinema and what are your feelings. This mode is often not talk about but i find it a very good alternative to digital cinema the lowest lumen non filter mode.


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So after doing some more calibration, hereâ€™️s some conclusions on my unit:
> 
> - bright cinema is the worst of the lot. The gamma is just crazy and canâ€™️t be fully corrected with the gamma controls. I find bright cinema worse in this firmware actually. Near black especially but also blown out in SDR in the higher ranges too. Yuk yuk!
> - Natural is actually pretty good in that they aligned the SDR and HDR gamuts closer (and actually made the SDR gamut worse so the charts look crazy bad on green but dE is not that bad).
> - the new HDR gamut will respond better with BT2020 when beyond P3 colours are used more frequently so itâ€™️s more future proof. (It kind of takes a right turn into neon greens after 50% stimulus which is what they recommend for future proof tone mapping with limited gamut capability)
> - Natural near-black gamma is really great and actually improved over previous firmware hence some report seeing more contrast and better black levels I think. The auto iris is slightly more aggressive too with better gamma re-mapping. Very noticeable in dark stuff like Game of Thrones.
> 
> Anyway, natural is the best to calibrate for HDR and after that, funnily enough, Dynamic. Natural gives great contrast while Dynamic is great when LOTS of light is needed. I prefer Dynamic for gaming (without the iris) as it gives a much larger colour volume and for movies like Aquaman with heaps of very bright scenes.
> 
> Anyway, thatâ€™️s my findings. Forget trying to calibrate Bright Cinema. 😞 Ugh!
> 
> 
> 
> Bright cinema is a mess happy you said it. Have you tried b&w cinema and what are your feelings. This mode is often not talk about but i find it a very good alternative to digital cinema the lowest lumen non filter mode.
Click to expand...

We don’t have B&W cinema mode on European and Australian models. I feel robbed!!!!!!! 😉


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> Bright cinema is a mess happy you said it. Have you tried b&w cinema and what are your feelings. This mode is often not talk about but i find it a very good alternative to digital cinema the lowest lumen non filter mode.


My Bright Cinema looks amazing. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## mauro145

amdar said:


> After updating to 1.03 firmware, I am seeing HDMI handshake issue between Epson and Denon 4300. It is happening randomly. I am using Monoprice 50ft fibre optic HDMI cable.
> 
> I never experienced any HDMI handshake issue before 1.03.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any one having similar issue after 1.03 update?


I think the same is happening to me. I use a marantz sr7012 and I experienced a few random black screens but I think the sound kept playing, maybe is something different?

Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> My Bright Cinema looks amazing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Not fair! You had the great one work his magic.:frown:


----------



## biglen

covsound1 said:


> Not fair! You had the great one work his magic.:frown:




Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> We don’t have B&W cinema mode on European and Australian models. I feel robbed!!!!!!! 😉


You did mention this before.I will say they look on the same order. Dont feel robbed!I will make sure i take my ADD meds before i post.


----------



## DeuceLee

Has anyone gotten the 5050ub to play a 3D movie from a PC yet?


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> My Bright Cinema looks amazing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Funny you mention that because this was the mode my calibrator choose to use for my brighter HDR settings when not using Cinema mode with the filter. I looked at the difference the other day between the two and it still looks remarkably similar if a little brighter which you would expect, so not reporting it looking off either.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Funny you mention that because this was the mode my calibrator choose to use for my brighter HDR settings when not using Cinema mode with the filter. I looked at the difference the other day between the two and it still looks remarkably similar if a little brighter which you would expect, so not reporting it looking off either.


Same thing here. He set up Bright Cinema as my main HDR, but it's definitely much brighter for me, than any other settings he did. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

covsound1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> We donâ€™️t have B&W cinema mode on European and Australian models. I feel robbed!!!!!!! 😉
> 
> 
> 
> You did mention this before.I will say they look on the same order. Dont feel robbed!/forum/images/smilies/smile.gifI will make sure i take my ADD meds before i post.
Click to expand...

Ha! Don’t be silly! 😉


----------



## rollon1980

Luminated67 said:


> biglen said:
> 
> 
> 
> My Bright Cinema looks amazing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Funny you mention that because this was the mode my calibrator choose to use for my brighter HDR settings when not using Cinema mode with the filter. I looked at the difference the other day between the two and it still looks remarkably similar if a little brighter which you would expect, so not reporting it looking off either.
Click to expand...

On my unit it’s badly badly off on the new firmware. Like super messed up. I stopped trying after 30mins. 😕 750hrs on the lamp here.


----------



## covsound1

rollon1980 said:


> On my unit it’s badly badly off on the new firmware. Like super messed up. I stopped trying after 30mins. 😕 750hrs on the lamp here.


I played with bright cinema last night. Some pics with my canon impressive.The last shot i took behind the projector to show real black level! i am at 500HR.


----------



## Luminated67

covsound1 said:


> I played with bright cinema last night. Some pics with my canon impressive.The last shot i took behind the projector to show real black level! i am at 500HR.


That wouldn’t happen to be Spider-Man 2 or 3 by any chance?

BTW these images look brill. 👍


----------



## amdar

I see the same behavior. The screen goes black but sound was coming. 
I had to switch off/on receiver, player and projector. 



mauro145 said:


> I think the same is happening to me. I use a marantz sr7012 and I experienced a few random black screens but I think the sound kept playing, maybe is something different?
> 
> Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

Luminated67 said:


> That wouldn’t happen to be Spider-Man 2 or 3 by any chance?
> 
> BTW these images look brill. 👍


Yeah i think 3? The settings on bright cinema really are different from the other modes in how they adjust. The first pic and last are sdr,I took down the contrast to 0.? For hdr anything over 46 started to blow out? Took the pics with a canon rt6 not the cell phone. Still cant get over the black level had iris at 12 and brightness at 42 for sdr and 48 for hdr.


----------



## asolor78

covsound1 said:


> Luminated67 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That wouldnâ€™️t happen to be Spider-Man 2 or 3 by any chance?
> 
> BTW these images look brill. ðŸ‘
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i think 3? The settings on bright cinema are really are different from the other modes in how they adjust. The first pic and last are sdr,I took down the contrast to 0.? For hdr anything over 46 started to blow out? Took the pics with a canon rt6 not the cell phone. Still cant get over the black level had iris at 12 and brightness at 42 for sdr and 48 for hdr./forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
Click to expand...

By any chance @covsound1 was this a calibrated setting for bright cinema or just what u informed in last post tweeks u had made? Been looking for some updated bright cinema calibrations with 1.03


----------



## covsound1

asolor78 said:


> By any chance @covsound1 was this a calibrated setting for bright cinema or just what u informed in last post tweeks u had made? Been looking for some updated bright cinema calibrations with 1.03


Non calibrated.That was my own tweaks as I've never really played with bright cinema. I have been missing out great mode!

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Darth Indy

Hi all, I just got a 3800 but not impressed with sharpness of it. If I bumped up to the 5050 how is its sharpness?


----------



## MannFan

I just spent 15 minutes googling, going back pages in this thread, trying to search this forum, etc.


Why the hell is it so damn hard to find the 1.3 firmware update? Can someone please link me to it. Thank you.


----------



## misterg51

MannFan said:


> I just spent 15 minutes googling, going back pages in this thread, trying to search this forum, etc.
> 
> 
> Why the hell is it so damn hard to find the 1.3 firmware update? Can someone please link me to it. Thank you.





https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


----------



## MannFan

misterg51 said:


> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805


Wow. Thanks. I found that page and looked and all it had was 1.01 or so I thought...

*sigh*


----------



## misterg51

MannFan said:


> Wow. Thanks. I found that page and looked and all it had was 1.01 or so I thought...
> 
> *sigh*


I did as well, they like to hide it lol


----------



## Sekosche

Darth Indy said:


> Hi all, I just got a 3800 but not impressed with sharpness of it. If I bumped up to the 5050 how is its sharpness?


Sorry, I don’t have first hand experience with the 3800 series.

IMO, the overall lens quality of the 5050 is a significant upgrade from the 3700 series. Coming from a 3700, sharpness uniformity is extremely impressive. So if the 3800 uses a similar lens as it’s predecessor, I’d say you’ll see solid gains in this area.


----------



## Peter Bendevis

Darth Indy said:


> Hi all, I just got a 3800 but not impressed with sharpness of it. If I bumped up to the 5050 how is its sharpness?


I have a friend who owns a 3800 and I have a 5040 and mine is definitely sharper however it certainly isn't as sharp as a native 4k. The Epson's have the larger pixel gaps than others which can certainly make things seem less sharp when you get right up to the screen to pixel peep. For me however I don't notice the gaps at my 6' viewing distance from a 90" screen and never have any complaints about sharpness.

Hope that helps a bit.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Darth Indy said:


> Hi all, I just got a 3800 but not impressed with sharpness of it. If I bumped up to the 5050 how is its sharpness?


I have owned the 3800, 4010 and the 5050, the 4010 and 5050 have considerably better optics (with the 5050 being the 'sharpest' of the three).

The 4010 and 5050 also see far less focal loss when using lens shift versus the 3800 (based upon my own experience with multiple 3800's).




*** If any of you are still waiting for some calibration numbers to try with other modes... I have not finished, still at it after discovering the luminance issue, so hopefully just delayed. 


- Jason


----------



## Porknz

Okay, I know I've asked about this way too many times, but I've replaced the parts suggested on here and watched a movie with the family tonight, new receiver, new hdmi cables for all of the devices, new cables for the subs, new fiber hdmi, still dropping the picture while the audio continues. Just can't seem to get around it. Only once during the movie, for three or four seconds, but I don't know what else to throw money at to fix it or how to figure what else is wrong? Last chance at some ideas here. Going to start asking on other sites too so see if anyone else has run into this and has figured out a fix. Super disappointed that a new receiver and a new fiber optic cable didn't fix it. The new receiver was my father's day gift so it was a big disappointment to the whole family when it still happened on the maiden voyage of the new receiver.


----------



## Luminated67

Porknz said:


> Okay, I know I've asked about this way too many times, but I've replaced the parts suggested on here and watched a movie with the family tonight, new receiver, new hdmi cables for all of the devices, new cables for the subs, new fiber hdmi, still dropping the picture while the audio continues. Just can't seem to get around it. Only once during the movie, for three or four seconds, but I don't know what else to throw money at to fix it or how to figure what else is wrong? Last chance at some ideas here. Going to start asking on other sites too so see if anyone else has run into this and has figured out a fix. Super disappointed that a new receiver and a new fiber optic cable didn't fix it. The new receiver was my father's day gift so it was a big disappointment to the whole family when it still happened on the maiden voyage of the new receiver.


Can you draw a diagram of all your equipment and how if all linked together and what cables are give where.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Hi everyone, I m a Happy owner of epson 5050ub, I had before the optoma uhd65. I have a few questions if you don’t mind. I don’t want to go from the beginning of the thread, so maybe you can help me. What is the best ceiling mount for the projector? In which hdmi you connect it? 1 or 2? I onnected in hdmi 1 with onkyo tax-nr787 and nvidia shield and in the info the pj says that is connected Input signal component.


----------



## skylarlove1999

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Hi everyone, I m a Happy owner of epson 5050ub, I had before the optoma uhd65. I have a few questions if you don’t mind. I don’t want to go from the beginning of the thread, so maybe you can help me. What is the best ceiling mount for the projector? In which hdmi you connect it? 1 or 2? I onnected in hdmi 1 with onkyo tax-nr787 and nvidia shield and in the info the pj says that is connected Input signal component.


Both HDMI connections on the projector are identical . I think it is your Shield settings. Try using this one.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## vagos1103gr1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Both HDMI connections on the projector are identical . I think it is your Shield settings. Try using this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


No it’s not, I tried and it’s the same. I also tried with the Apple TV 4K. I use the same fiber optic HDMI I used before with the optoma. The epson is connected in HDMI 2.


----------



## skylarlove1999

vagos1103gr1 said:


> No it’s not, I tried and it’s the same. I also tried with the Apple TV 4K. I use the same fiber optic HDMI I used before with the optoma. The epson is connected in HDMI 2.


Projector settings?










Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## vagos1103gr1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Projector settings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Wrong image


----------



## vagos1103gr1

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Wrong image


I used the settings from https://www.projectorreviews.com/ep...heater-projector-review-calibration-settings/


----------



## skylarlove1999

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Wrong image


Under Signal do your settings match mine? Do you happen to have an HTPC connected anywhere upstream from your AVR? Which AVR are you using? Have you tried connecting the Shield directly to the projector using the same cable, bypassing the AVR? Does it still show Component when you do that?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## vagos1103gr1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Under Signal do your settings match mine? Do you happen to have an HTPC connected anywhere upstream from your AVR? Which AVR are you using? Have you tried connecting the Shield directly to the projector using the same cable, bypassing the AVR? Does it still show Component when you do that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes I use the same settings as yours, I bypassed the avr onkyo ti-nr787, but still the same. Says component next to input signal.


----------



## skylarlove1999

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Yes I use the same settings as yours, I bypassed the avr onkyo ti-nr787, but still the same. Says component next to input signal.


Do you have a short cable you can try from Shield to Projector?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## vagos1103gr1

I tried also in hdmi 1 with the same results, I am gonna try now with a short cable.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

I tried with a short one but still the same. To you what’s says to the input signal?


----------



## skylarlove1999

vagos1103gr1 said:


> I tried with a short one but still the same. To you what’s says to the input signal?


Anything else connected to the projector? It is very strange to see HDMI along with component when there is not an HTPC connected somewhere in the chain.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Wrong image


I just noticed the subtitle. "afro-pubes" 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## vagos1103gr1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Anything else connected to the projector? It is very strange to see HDMI along with component when there is not an HTPC connected somewhere in the chain.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I know, I am gonna wait to open the technical support on chat. I just checked my warranty is expire on 08/14/22. But I just bought the pj from Parker Gwen. Does epson gives 3 years warranty?


----------



## skylarlove1999

vagos1103gr1 said:


> I know, I am gonna wait to open the technical support on chat. I just checked my warranty is expire on 08/14/22. But I just bought the pj from Parker Gwen. Does epson gives 3 years warranty?


5050 has two year warranty if you purchased from an authorized dealer. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## FyreFlux

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Wrong image


Not sure I understand what the problem is? Mine shows the exact same information as yours. You're getting BT.2020 12-bit 4:2:2 with HDR10 in 4K at 24 fps.

If it was indeed receiving a component signal, you wouldn't be able to achieve that.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

FyreFlux said:


> Not sure I understand what the problem is? Mine shows the exact same information as yours. You're getting BT.2020 12-bit 4:2:2 with HDR10 in 4K at 24 fps.
> 
> If it was indeed receiving a component signal, you wouldn't be able to achieve that.


Why then in the input signal is written component and not HDMI ?


----------



## vagos1103gr1

And something else, why frame interpolation is in gray out and can’t be used?


----------



## FyreFlux

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Why then in the input signal is written component and not HDMI ?


The only thing that I could think of, is that the UI is the same as on the models that have streaming apps built in, and its simply indicating that an external "component" is connected providing the signal.

This is pure speculation though, but as I said, mine displays the exact same information as yours, and I am sure a lot of other people's will show the same.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

FyreFlux said:


> The only thing that I could think of, is that the UI is the same as on the models that have streaming apps built in, and its simply indicating that an external "component" is connected providing the signal.
> 
> This is pure speculation though, but as I said, mine displays the exact same information as yours, and I am sure a lot of other people's will show the same.


What about FI, to me in all the times is gray out


----------



## FyreFlux

vagos1103gr1 said:


> And something else, why frame interpolation is in gray out and can’t be used?


Frame Interpolation is only available with a 1080p signal on this projector.

You would need to disable 4K up-scaling on the projector and then provide a 1080p signal for FI to work.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

FyreFlux said:


> Frame Interpolation is only available with a 1080p signal on this projector.
> 
> You would need to disable 4K up-scaling on the projector and then provide a 1080p signal for FI to work.


Thanks for the reply. Why is working the 3D, I put in kodi a 3D movie side by side but the 3D is not available on projector..


----------



## FyreFlux

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Thanks for the reply. Why is working the 3D, I put in kodi a 3D movie side by side but the 3D is not available on projector..


Can't answer that question unfortunately, I have never tried to play a side-by-side 3D rip on this projector.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

3D is not enable,


----------



## vagos1103gr1

vagos1103gr1 said:


> 3D is not enable,


I found the solution for the 3D, I have to put the GUI of kodi in 1920x1080. After gives me option for 3D. I put some old rf glasses that I have but wasn’t working. They are from 3drv Corp. maybe I have to try some other glasses. I put a 1080p movie but the FI is still gray out.


----------



## Porknz

*Maybe I can 'draw it' on here. *

Just typed everything out spaced out as it's setup and everything disappeared when it was posted in new formatting. What do you mean by draw it out for you?


----------



## garnuts

amdar said:


> After updating to 1.03 firmware, I am seeing HDMI handshake issue between Epson and Denon 4300. It is happening randomly. I am using Monoprice 50ft fibre optic HDMI cable.
> I never experienced any HDMI handshake issue before 1.03.
> 
> 
> Any one having similar issue after 1.03 update?


Yes, I was having considerable handshake problems after updating to 1.03 between my Marantz 6013 and the 5050. But it was inconsistent... it was really bad one evening, ok the next and then really bad last night. Completely blanking out every 30-60 seconds.

After trying several different things, I unplugged the HDMI cable from my Sony TV which was connected to the dual HDMI outputs on my 6013 AVR and problem solved! Freaking HDMI standards!

I have not investigated any further, since that is not a solution, but it did allow me to watch a movie!

Also, I recently connected this Sony TV to Alexa, and I find it randomly turned on sometimes, so this is another possibility causing the HDMI handshake problem?

Before upgrading my PJ, two TV's and two AVR's to 4K last year, I never had this many HDMI issues


----------



## Porknz

garnuts said:


> Yes, I was having considerable handshake problems after updating to 1.03 between my Marantz 6013 and the 5050. But it was inconsistent... it was really bad one evening, ok the next and then really bad last night. Completely blanking out every 30-60 seconds.
> 
> After trying several different things, I unplugged the HDMI cable from my Sony TV which was connected to the dual HDMI outputs on my 6013 AVR and problem solved! Freaking HDMI standards!
> 
> I have not investigated any further, since that is not a solution, but it did allow me to watch a movie!
> 
> Also, I recently connected this Sony TV to Alexa, and I find it randomly turned on sometimes, so this is another possibility causing the HDMI handshake problem?
> 
> Before upgrading my PJ, two TV's and two AVR's to 4K last year, I never had this many HDMI issues



This sounds similar to what I've been trying to fix for almost a year now. What is a handshake?


----------



## Luminated67

Porknz said:


> This sounds similar to what I've been trying to fix for almost a year now. What is a handshake?


Handshake is when said you change the input on your AVR or switch from TV to projector, it’s basically the length of time you have a black screen until you get a picture.

When I mean draw it out I actually mean literally draw it on a piece of paper and label each equipment and type and make of HDMI cable between them then take a photo and post the photo on here. A bit like this


----------



## mauro145

FyreFlux said:


> The only thing that I could think of, is that the UI is the same as on the models that have streaming apps built in, and its simply indicating that an external "component" is connected providing the signal.
> 
> 
> 
> This is pure speculation though, but as I said, mine displays the exact same information as yours, and I am sure a lot of other people's will show the same.


Not sure what component refers to but when I connect the PC to the projector (receiver) I can read RGB.

Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

vagos1103gr1 said:


> I found the solution for the 3D, I have to put the GUI of kodi in 1920x1080. After gives me option for 3D. I put some old rf glasses that I have but wasn’t working. They are from 3drv Corp. maybe I have to try some other glasses. I put a 1080p movie but the FI is still gray out.


Make sure Image Processing is set to Fine, and EDID is Expanded, to get FI available. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Keith AP

garnuts said:


> Yes, I was having considerable handshake problems after updating to 1.03 between my Marantz 6013 and the 5050. But it was inconsistent... it was really bad one evening, ok the next and then really bad last night. Completely blanking out every 30-60 seconds.
> 
> After trying several different things, I unplugged the HDMI cable from my Sony TV which was connected to the dual HDMI outputs on my 6013 AVR and problem solved! Freaking HDMI standards!
> 
> I have not investigated any further, since that is not a solution, but it did allow me to watch a movie!
> 
> Also, I recently connected this Sony TV to Alexa, and I find it randomly turned on sometimes, so this is another possibility causing the HDMI handshake problem?
> 
> Before upgrading my PJ, two TV's and two AVR's to 4K last year, I never had this many HDMI issues


Not sure this is the same issue, but on my Marantz I have two different projectors connected off the two HDMI outputs. I have to select either Monitor 1 or Monitor 2 (front panel or setup menu) to avoid similar issues. I used to unplug one or the other.


----------



## jorisdriesen

What a disappointment on Friday. Projector was gone for 2 weeks for repair of a panel, I had purple pixels during a lot of dark scenes, always ofcourse on the same location, I even sent them pictures to show the problem. Took a day off work, drove 200 miles to pick it up and they just tell me that they couldn't reproduce the defect so they didn't replace anything. Wtf.

The guy saw I was pissed off, so he took the PJ back and said they will replace the whole subassembly with the lamp, panels, lens, processor etc. They will send it back to me end of next week when it's finished.

Grrr....


----------



## mon2479

I am using a Yamaha RXA 3050 and I always have 4k enhancement grayed out which makes me think the Yamaha is up converting the image to 4k, though in the video settings of the Yamaha, I'm pretty sure I selected direct. Anything else I can try?


----------



## skylarlove1999

mon2479 said:


> I am using a Yamaha RXA 3050 and I always have 4k enhancement grayed out which makes me think the Yamaha is up converting the image to 4k, though in the video settings of the Yamaha, I'm pretty sure I selected direct. Anything else I can try?


The AVR and your source devices can/will upconvert a 1080 signal to 4K if the AVR/Source device detects that it is connected to a 4K/HDR capable display. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## aoaaron

Hey, does anyone have any good calibration settings? Especially for HDR? 

I'm playing TLOU2 on the 6050UB and found the beginning snow based scenes are very dark compared to how they should be.


----------



## FyreFlux

aoaaron said:


> Hey, does anyone have any good calibration settings? Especially for HDR?
> 
> I'm playing TLOU2 on the 6050UB and found the beginning snow based scenes are very dark compared to how they should be.


Mine hasn't been calibrated, but I use dynamic mode with gamma at -2 and the slider at 8 for all HDR games and it looks great in my opinion. 
If you haven't already, I'd try that mode. I haven't felt that the TLOU2 was too dark.

Also, there is a HDR calibration thing that's part of the PS4 Pro operating system, have you gone through that?


----------



## cky2354

Porknz said:


> Okay, I know I've asked about this way too many times, but I've replaced the parts suggested on here and watched a movie with the family tonight, new receiver, new hdmi cables for all of the devices, new cables for the subs, new fiber hdmi, still dropping the picture while the audio continues. Just can't seem to get around it. Only once during the movie, for three or four seconds, but I don't know what else to throw money at to fix it or how to figure what else is wrong? Last chance at some ideas here. Going to start asking on other sites too so see if anyone else has run into this and has figured out a fix. Super disappointed that a new receiver and a new fiber optic cable didn't fix it. The new receiver was my father's day gift so it was a big disappointment to the whole family when it still happened on the maiden voyage of the new receiver.


I'm having the same issue and this did not happen before the update. They must have done something to enhance the handshake between equipment but in reality, it's causing brief picture to go blank. I have been using Panasonic 430, Xidoo player, and Apple TV going through my Denon x6500h thru fiber optic hdmi cable to the projector and never had this issue till now. It is quite distracting when this happens so I hope that we can figure this out.


----------



## skylarlove1999

cky2354 said:


> I'm having the same issue and this did not happen before the update. They must have done something to enhance the handshake between equipment but in reality, it's causing brief picture to go blank. I have been using Panasonic 430, Xidoo player, and Apple TV going through my Denon x6500h thru fiber optic hdmi cable to the projector and never had this issue till now. It is quite distracting when this happens so I hope that we can figure this out.


Sometimes what is necessary to reestablish good handshakes after a firmware update is to unplug all gear for 10 minutes and then turn on all the devices again. I know it sounds ridiculous but it has its merits.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## garnuts

Keith AP said:


> Not sure this is the same issue, but on my Marantz I have two different projectors connected off the two HDMI outputs. I have to select either Monitor 1 or Monitor 2 (front panel or setup menu) to avoid similar issues. I used to unplug one or the other.



Thanks, I forgot the option in the Marantz settings to pick Monitor 1, Monitor 2, or Dual. If I can't sort it out, that will be easier than unplugging the HDMI to the TV. I'll also try Skylarlove's suggestion of unplugging everything for 10 minutes or so.


----------



## DaGamePimp

aoaaron said:


> Hey, does anyone have any good calibration settings? Especially for HDR?
> 
> I'm playing TLOU2 on the 6050UB and found the beginning snow based scenes are very dark compared to how they should be.



Still working on more basic calibrations to share for different modes (will be using a different meter soon). 

I am a few hours into TLOU2 but have yet to play it on the 5050, I plan to do so fairly soon.




To those having drop-outs be sure to check your connection(s) at the input/output, if the HDMI cable is not snug into the socket it can cause random drops. 

I had this issue previously and solved it with a cable/port saver (6" HDMI extension) that was rated for 4K 60 HDR. 

- I know the one that comes with the Amazon 4K stick works (for those that might have one of those laying around).


* For those that need longer runs (50' +) I can vouch for this Active 100' Fiber HDMI cable, it's spendy but works great if you need that kind of length (I use it to connect my media room to my theater room, AVR to AVR). It can be powered via an additional usb cable if needed (Active). I waited until it went on sale and then took a chance on an open-box, got a like new cable for half price. 

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocket...ical-hdmi-cable-black/6174032.p?skuId=6174032

- Jason


----------



## biglen

Is anyone running MadVR with their 5050? The rest of my parts are coming today, so I'll be setting it up. I'm looking for the best settings to use in MadVR with an RTX2060 Super. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

biglen said:


> Is anyone running MadVR with their 5050? The rest of my parts are coming today, so I'll be setting it up. I'm looking for the best settings to use in MadVR with an RTX2060 Super.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


i am running madvr with a rtx 2060 and with a tw9400. 

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

Angelo_Verbeke said:


> i am running madvr with a rtx 2060 and with a tw9400.
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


Maybe you could connect with @biglen when he is ready for assistance with madVR. I love this community especially this thread.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Angelo_Verbeke said:


> i am running madvr with a rtx 2060 and with a tw9400.
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


What's the best MadVR version to use, the latest stable, or are earlier versions better? What settings are giving you the best results. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

biglen said:


> What's the best MadVR version to use, the latest stable, or are earlier versions better? What settings are giving you the best results.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


i use 113 build. use my sdr calibrated profile natural for sdr bt2020.

and dynamic target for hdr on 60 and sdr 95
gamma 2.3 in madvr. also send bt2020 to display on in madvr. a lot of settings. it was hard to setup everyting for a noob like me. but i have a great tutorial.

https://app.box.com/s/8mtuxqoibx8h76jvg0xrw95arub768uv

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Great, thanks! I'll read through your guide to hopefully better understand the MadVR settings. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

biglen said:


> Great, thanks! I'll read through your guide to hopefully better understand the MadVR settings.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


its complicated madvr. but if it runs it runs great. 

Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## dstheater

Why is it so difficult to find the US firmware links? Everybody post the links, but it is clearly for the original firmware. If you don't know the US link for firmware downloads, stop posting the original firmware.

If I download the AU 9400 model 1.0.3 firmware on the US 5050UB projector, will I lose any features or come into any problems?


----------



## skylarlove1999

dstheater said:


> Why is it so difficult to find the US firmware links? Everybody post the links, but it is clearly for the original firmware. If you don't know the US link for firmware downloads, stop posting the original firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> If I download the AU 9400 model 1.0.3 firmware on the US 5050UB projector, will I lose any features or come into any problems?


Firmware is the same exact file for both EU and US.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## dstheater

skylarlove1999 said:


> Firmware is the same exact file for both EU and US.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Thank you for your response. I just don't understand why Epson doesn't list any new firmware updates on their US Web Page? The have always shown the 1.0.1 firmware version.


----------



## Luminated67

dstheater said:


> Why is it so difficult to find the US firmware links? Everybody post the links, but it is clearly for the original firmware. If you don't know the US link for firmware downloads, stop posting the original firmware.
> 
> If I download the AU 9400 model 1.0.3 firmware on the US 5050UB projector, will I lose any features or come into any problems?


You will lose one feature with the UK firmware, your menu will now be in proper English. 😂


----------



## dstheater

Luminated67 said:


> You will lose one feature with the UK firmware, your menu will now be in proper English. 😂


lol. Right now I am on 1.0.1, I assume I should update to 1.0.3?


----------



## dstheater

MannFan said:


> Wow. Thanks. I found that page and looked and all it had was 1.01 or so I thought...
> 
> 
> 
> *sigh*


I'm pretty sure that is 1.0.1! Am I missing something?


----------



## alangsk

dstheater said:


> I'm pretty sure that is 1.0.1! Am I missing something?



Interestingly enough, it is no longer on that page. It was there. I even have a screenshot of it.

Why did Epson remove it? Did they discover an issue with it?


----------



## dstheater

alangsk said:


> Interestingly enough, it is no longer on that page. It was there. I even have a screenshot of it.
> 
> Why did Epson remove it? Did they discover an issue with it?


I'm not sure, I have been checking for months and I have never seen anything else then 1.0.1

Is it possible to send me a PM with the link for the US version?

Thanks.


----------



## alangsk

dstheater said:


> I'm not sure, I have been checking for months and I have never seen anything else then 1.0.1
> 
> Is it possible to send me a PM with the link for the US version?
> 
> Thanks.



I don’t have it. That screenshot is from the US page 11 days ago.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

mauro145 said:


> Those of you who are using hdfury devices to get lldv, would you mind sharing the edid you are using with me? I have the drhdmi4k so I can only change the edid entirely.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk



I just came across a thread that might help regarding proper EDID (not sure if it will apply to the DrHDMI4k but worth a shot)...

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...44-videoforge-hdmi-hdfury-integral-hdr10.html

- Jason


----------



## rustolemite

misterg51 said:


> I did as well, they like to hide it lol


 Well apparently I suck at hide and seek cause I still can't find the 1.03 firmware update of the firmware page.


So I did get the AU version but it worries me why it's not on the US firmware page.


----------



## mauro145

DaGamePimp said:


> I just came across a thread that might help regarding proper EDID (not sure if it will apply to the DrHDMI4k but worth a shot)...
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...44-videoforge-hdmi-hdfury-integral-hdr10.html
> 
> - Jason


Hey thank you

I couldn't find an edid to download there. Or maybe i wasn't clear, more than edit an edid I was after a LLDV compatible edid specifically made for the Epson projector.

Would it be enough to copy the projector edid and add the line shown in the pic maybe?


----------



## misterg51

rustolemite said:


> Well apparently I suck at hide and seek cause I still can't find the 1.03 firmware update of the firmware page.
> 
> 
> So I did get the AU version but it worries me why it's not on the US firmware page.





It WAS there. I updated mine as well. Epson USA has some explaining to do.......


----------



## Gjlaplante

I saw a screenshot posted of version 1.03 from earlier today in the U.S. but now I'm as puzzled as everyone else as it has now reverted back to 1.01.


----------



## dstheater

misterg51 said:


> It WAS there. I updated mine as well. Epson USA has some explaining to do.......


Is it possible to get the update file?


----------



## ShadowBoy

I emailed Epson US to ask why it has reverted to 1.01 firmware. I'll post if they send me an answer. I downloaded the 1.03 from the US site but haven't installed it as my 9400/6050 is not yet set up. I agree, though that I don't want to do that without explanation as to why it was removed. I called Epson Australia and the representative said she will email me the firmware update (or a link?). If it's a link I'll post it on the board. I agree what others have said here. I don't know why these sites don't have simple, easy to find updates. They're doing things to improve their products. Why make it like some sort of treasure hunt?


----------



## Terence

Epson should post a footnote why they removed the 1.03 and if you registered your pj send an email when updates are available. I received my 6050 last week (back ordered) and it has the new firmware, my thinking the new firmware was the reason for the back orders. Last it would be nice to list what the updates provide. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ShadowBoy

I contacted Epson Australia and they sent me this link to get the 1.03 firmware update. 

Thank you for contacting Epson Support.

1. Click the link below
https://www.epson.com.au/products/projector/EH-TW9400.asp
2. Go to downloads tab
3. Select ALL under Drivers and Downloads options
4. Scroll down, select Firmware v1.03 download HTTP


----------



## DaGamePimp

mauro145 said:


> Hey thank you
> 
> I couldn't find an edid to download there. Or maybe i wasn't clear, more than edit an edid I was after a LLDV compatible edid specifically made for the Epson projector.
> 
> Would it be enough to copy the projector edid and add the line shown in the pic maybe?


Honestly I have not done EDID hex editing for many years but it's worth a shot, if the numbers line up you might have some DV glory. 

Best of luck and be sure to post back when you get it figured out. 

- Jason


----------



## Porknz

cky2354 said:


> I'm having the same issue and this did not happen before the update. They must have done something to enhance the handshake between equipment but in reality, it's causing brief picture to go blank. I have been using Panasonic 430, Xidoo player, and Apple TV going through my Denon x6500h thru fiber optic hdmi cable to the projector and never had this issue till now. It is quite distracting when this happens so I hope that we can figure this out.


I'm still on whatever version my 5050ub came with as I have been unable to find the 1.03 on the us site. If it's caused by switching, then that shouldn't be my problem in the middle of a movie.


----------



## Porknz

Luminated67 said:


> Handshake is when said you change the input on your AVR or switch from TV to projector, it’s basically the length of time you have a black screen until you get a picture.
> 
> When I mean draw it out I actually mean literally draw it on a piece of paper and label each equipment and type and make of HDMI cable between them then take a photo and post the photo on here. A bit like this


Okay, so without some new courses, I'm going to have to draw mine out, but I'll try to do that and post something in case something sticks out as the problem.


----------



## cky2354

Porknz said:


> I'm still on whatever version my 5050ub came with as I have been unable to find the 1.03 on the us site. If it's caused by switching, then that shouldn't be my problem in the middle of a movie.


I unhooked all my hdmi cables from every device and then plugged it back in and the issue seems to be gone now. Watched 2 movies so far without any interruptions so I do believe it's hdmi issue, not with the 1.03 firmware.


----------



## skylarlove1999

cky2354 said:


> I unhooked all my hdmi cables from every device and then plugged it back in and the issue seems to be gone now. Watched 2 movies so far without any interruptions so I do believe it's hdmi issue, not with the 1.03 firmware.


Yes I have found that HDMI handshake issues arise after firmware updates . Disconnecting everything usually works. Usually. LOL. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

ShadowBoy said:


> I emailed Epson US to ask why it has reverted to 1.01 firmware. I'll post if they send me an answer. I downloaded the 1.03 from the US site but haven't installed it as my 9400/6050 is not yet set up. I agree, though that I don't want to do that without explanation as to why it was removed. I called Epson Australia and the representative said she will email me the firmware update (or a link?). If it's a link I'll post it on the board. I agree what others have said here. I don't know why these sites don't have simple, easy to find updates. They're doing things to improve their products. Why make it like some sort of treasure hunt?


Well one thing i have found it does not hand shake anymore with my HD blue ray player. My 5040 did this with no problems.I did not try the player with 1.01.Also i am trying my own cms and finding strange alignments.I am a noob so it could be me.But i am coming to the conclusion to get the best out of the update a new calibration is in order. Or something is off with the update! Even when saying this I like what i see over the old. I agree treasure hunt?


----------



## JonfromCB

*Calibration advice*

Calibration guidance please. Non bat cave, tan walls, white ceiling, >90% after dark use with no to little ambient light. Use is 70% hd cable TV, 20% Amazon, and 10% BRD. Obviously I'm not going for the absolute best the 5050 has to offer in a darked-out room with the highest quality sources. The older I get the more I ask Doctors, lawyers, mechanics, undertakers and PJ geeks the same question: What would you do if you were me?

Are there some good and generally recognized settings someone can recommend for my use? Should I get a calibration disc and wade through it? Other best options?


----------



## bitmap42

JonfromCB said:


> Calibration guidance please. Non bat cave, tan walls, white ceiling, >90% after dark use with no to little ambient light. Use is 70% hd cable TV, 20% Amazon, and 10% BRD. Obviously I'm not going for the absolute best the 5050 has to offer in a darked-out room with the highest quality sources. The older I get the more I ask Doctors, lawyers, mechanics, undertakers and PJ geeks the same question: What would you do if you were me?
> 
> Are there some good and generally recognized settings someone can recommend for my use? Should I get a calibration disc and wade through it? Other best options?


I used this: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-...48496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

I didn't burn it to a blu-ray instead I just displayed the patterns from a laptop. Not necessarily as good as the blu-ray, but definitely simpler. I spent a few hours going through the different patterns and was definitely able to notice an improvement in picture quality (on an Epson 2150 specifically).


----------



## cky2354

Nevermind, spoke too soon. Now I am getting video dropouts more frequently to the point where it is very distracting. Nothing has changed except for the firmware... it might also be my Denon receiver as well since it also updated its firmware recently. Never had this happen prior to this which I have been using this projector since early March.


----------



## carmona

I have a oppo 203 blu ray player hooked up to a epson 6050 projector.

Could anyone suggest the best basic video output settings, from the menu on the oppo, given this setup?

Use is mainly for standard blu ray and 4k blu ray.

Thanks!


----------



## misterg51

https://epson.com/Support/wa00805 has 1.03 back again today. just use edit and find on this page, and enter 5050 or 6050


Get it while you can before their web editors do stuff again...


----------



## HAMMo7

Has anyone posted how to access the "secret" menu? on the 5050/6050 and 4010/4050??


----------



## skylarlove1999

HAMMo7 said:


> Has anyone posted how to access the "secret" menu? on the 5050/6050 and 4010/4050??


Someplace way back at the beginning of the thread. I forget what the button combination is for

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HAMMo7

skylarlove1999 said:


> Someplace way back at the beginning of the thread. I forget what the button combination is for
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


thank! Found it


----------



## skylarlove1999

HAMMo7 said:


> thank! Found it


You're very welcome would you mind reposting those directions here thank you I'm sure some other people will need them eventually as well

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## HAMMo7

skylarlove1999 said:


> You're very welcome would you mind reposting those directions here thank you I'm sure some other people will need them eventually as well
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Press Menu for 8 seconds and then Esc twice


----------



## HAMMo7

HAMMo7 said:


> Press Menu for 8 seconds and then Esc twice


credit to Alaric post #3 ... he put a link up for all sorts of info..


----------



## skylarlove1999

HAMMo7 said:


> Press Menu for 8 seconds and then Esc twice


Thank you sir. Very kind. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## ShadowBoy

misterg51 said:


> https://epson.com/Support/wa00805 has 1.03 back again today. just use edit and find on this page, and enter 5050 or 6050
> 
> 
> Get it while you can before their web editors do stuff again...


I contacted Epson USA and couldn't get an answer as to why 1.03 was taken down, but they sent me this link to download it. you can use this or misterg51's one above.http://epsonservice.goepson.com/downloads/VI/Scan Smart/EPSONPJ_H928YRC012.bin


----------



## Sekosche

Just an FYI, I haven’t had any problems with 1.03 in my particular setup, but maybe I’m just lucky. Running with a Denon x4200, Pana 420, Sony x800, PS4 Pro and Roku 4K most of the time without any problems. If anything, my handshake issues have actually improved significantly since I upgraded firmware.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Hi, I noticed my 5050ub in the middle of a movie is shutting down by it shelf. This happened 2-3 random different times during the 3 days I own the pj. One time happened with nvidia shield pro and the other time with Apple TV 4K.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

rollon1980 said:


> Ok, guys. I have done a recalibration and checked it against my LG OLED that’s been calibrated to an inch of its life and it perceptually matches the OLED.
> 
> The calibration is done in the following way (if anyone cares to repeat it on their unit):
> 
> 1. Select dynamic pic mode
> 2. Leave the 2-point grayscale control at default
> 3. Calibrate grayscale using 8-point grayscale control to D65
> 4. Calibrate gamut to P3 within BT2020. Note that green and cyan will run out before reaching point. DO NOT overdrive controls trying to reach points beyond 50% stimulus. It can cause artefacts. Use patterns to verify a good green and cyan tracking instead! Same applies for the hue of green if yours is a bit tilted towards yellow like mine.
> 5. Pull the offset controls down 1 or 2 clicks (depending on calibration aim). Remember there are two ways to calibrate near black and top end in HDR: try and tone map OR cut off the range the display is unable to display. Both are valid. Sony OLEDs cut stuff off, LG tone maps. I recommend a compromise here for near black.
> 6. Calibrate near-black gamma using a visual match to a calibrated display or with material you are familiar with.
> 7. Now go back into the 8-point greyscale control and zero out the 8th point max / max brightness point! Why? Because anything between 7 and 8 is likely used for highlights and colour accuracy here isn’t as critical. Your eyes won’t be very sensitive to the errors here and saturated colours are highly unlikely to be in this range. As an alternative, you can measure the errors and put back some green and blue energy and visually verify by comparing between the perfect greyscale and the one with the errors at greyscale point 8. Adding this energy back will allow highlights to pop!
> 
> And now for the settings that I actually got to on my unit!
> Dynamic HDR
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 50
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 24:-25:0
> 6 11:-15:0
> 5 6:-10:0
> 4 4:-6:0
> 3 2:-4:0
> 2 0:-1:1
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 1st from left default
> 2nd from left: -7
> 3rd from left: -2
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:48
> G: 55:35:45
> B:60:34:43
> C: 0:45:13
> M: 60:49:33
> Y: 58:50:25
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too but calibration was done under high lamp,
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)
> 
> Enjoy!


Thanks for the calibration, dynamic become my favorite color mode. The blacks in this mode are amazing. Do you have the default settings on super resolution and detail enhancement? Going from dynamic to natural the image loosing the pop up.


----------



## rollon1980

vagos1103gr1 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, guys. I have done a recalibration and checked it against my LG OLED
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the calibration, dynamic become my favorite color mode. The blacks in this mode are amazing. Do you have the default settings on super resolution and detail enhancement? Going from dynamic to natural the image loosing the pop up.
Click to expand...

Happy to hear. I use it for gaming all the time. 

Setting level 3, defaults but it’s really a preference thing. I do find anything higher than 3 can look processed but some crank it all the way up. 😉


----------



## vagos1103gr1

rollon1980 said:


> Happy to hear. I use it for gaming all the time.
> 
> Setting level 3, defaults but it’s really a preference thing. I do find anything higher than 3 can look processed but some crank it all the way up. 😉


Super resolution 3 and detail enchanted default? What is your prefer mode for movies? I calibrate the natural with the project reviews settings. The digital cinema for me is too dark.


----------



## sddawson

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Hi, I noticed my 5050ub in the middle of a movie is shutting down by it shelf. This happened 2-3 random different times during the 3 days I own the pj. One time happened with nvidia shield pro and the other time with Apple TV 4K.


Could be a CEC problem. Some other equipment is shutting itself down and sending a power down to the projector. Try disabling CEC on all your devices.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

sddawson said:


> Could be a CEC problem. Some other equipment is shutting itself down and sending a power down to the projector. Try disabling CEC on all your devices.


Thanks I will do that


----------



## rustolemite

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Hi, I noticed my 5050ub in the middle of a movie is shutting down by it shelf. This happened 2-3 random different times during the 3 days I own the pj. One time happened with nvidia shield pro and the other time with Apple TV 4K.


 When it shuts down does it go into a high fan mode and the blue light blinks for a minute or 2 then shuts down? 

Mine does this and if I just restart the projector it does the same thing. I have to unplug the power then it goes back to working like normal.


----------



## rustolemite

sddawson said:


> Could be a CEC problem. Some other equipment is shutting itself down and sending a power down to the projector. Try disabling CEC on all your devices.


Yeah I turned off all CEC on my stuff as well.


----------



## rustolemite

rollon1980 said:


> Happy to hear. I use it for gaming all the time.
> 
> Setting level 3, defaults but it’s really a preference thing. I do find anything higher than 3 can look processed but some crank it all the way up. 😉



I was using Dynamic but it was really pushing the Blues and making them kinda over powering, but I haven't had a calibration done yet, will try the settings posted on here to see if it helps.


----------



## skylarlove1999

rustolemite said:


> When it shuts down does it go into a high fan mode and the blue light blinks for a minute or 2 then shuts down?
> 
> Mine does this and if I just restart the projector it does the same thing. I have to unplug the power then it goes back to working like normal.


You need to get your projector replaced. That is potentially indicative of a power supply issue. Trust me I have some experience with that issue. LOL. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Thanks for the calibration, dynamic become my favorite color mode. The blacks in this mode are amazing. Do you have the default settings on super resolution and detail enhancement? Going from dynamic to natural the image loosing the pop up.


Sharpness in set at 2, 2 and 2

Image Enhancement Preset 3
Noise Reduction 5
MEG Noise 0
Super Resolution Fine Line Adjust 5
Soft Focus Detail 5
If using a 1080P source

Detail Enhancement Strength 30
Range 30

Try these settings.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

skylarlove1999 said:


> You need to get your projector replaced. That is potentially indicative of a power supply issue. Trust me I have some experience with that issue. LOL.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


I deactivated cec on my nvidia , applets 4K wasn’t activate, and I am gonna watch it if gonna do it again. The point is I bought from Parker in a good price, and I don’t want to return it. I don’t know how easy the exchange are on this dealer.


----------



## skylarlove1999

vagos1103gr1 said:


> I deactivated cec on my nvidia , applets 4K wasn’t activate, and I am gonna watch it if gonna do it again. The point is I bought from Parker in a good price, and I don’t want to return it. I don’t know how easy the exchange are on this dealer.


Yours sound like a CEC issue because the projector is just shutting itself off. The other poster is getting the flashing lights indicative of larger issues within the projector. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

skylarlove1999 said:


> You need to get your projector replaced. That is potentially indicative of a power supply issue. Trust me I have some experience with that issue. LOL.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


well I had it happen on my 5040 and now the 5050, I actually just got a replacement from Crutchfield cause HDMI port stopped working, but I think it was an surge that killed it...


----------



## skylarlove1999

rustolemite said:


> well I had it happen on my 5040 and now the 5050, I actually just got a replacement from Crutchfield cause HDMI port stopped working, but I think it was an surge that killed it...


Yes I had three 5040 projectors die from power supply issues. I even installed a dedicated line right from my box to the projector. Been going strong with my 6050 for 13 months with zero issues. So it could have also been my electrical. But the 5040 were known for power supply issues .

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Luminated67 said:


> Sharpness in set at 2, 2 and 2
> 
> Image Enhancement Preset 3
> Noise Reduction 5
> MEG Noise 0
> Super Resolution Fine Line Adjust 5
> Soft Focus Detail 5
> If using a 1080P source
> 
> Detail Enhancement Strength 30
> Range 30
> 
> Try these settings.


Thanks for hdr what preset you using?


----------



## Luminated67

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Thanks for hdr what preset you using?


Unless you are in a complete bat cave with black velour walls and ceiling and projecting on to a 100” from almost its closest position my settings will be no use to you.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Luminated67 said:


> Unless you are in a complete bat cave with black velour walls and ceiling and projecting on to a 100” from almost its closest position my settings will be no use to you.


My ceiling is black and my walls dark red. Mostly I watch movies at night in a dark environment. For tv viewing I had my bedroom oled.


----------



## covsound1

skylarlove1999 said:


> Yes I had three 5040 projectors die from power supply issues. I even installed a dedicated line right from my box to the projector. Been going strong with my 6050 for 13 months with zero issues. So it could have also been my electrical. But the 5040 were known for power supply issues .
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Wow you have been through a lot. I have a trip light voltage regulator thet keeps my volts at 120 constant and also protects from surges. I am also going to do the dedicated line you stated. I hope more members would understand how important this is.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rustolemite

Everytime I have had a problem with the power it seems to be coming through the HDMI cable, it has in the past fried the HDMI board on the Marantz and also the port it was connected to on the Epson. 

Doesn't affect the other things plugged into the Marantz, so I was wondering is it because the HDMI cable I have to use, 40ft., is an "active" cable that a bit of power running through it, is that what kills the ports?


----------



## DaGamePimp

It's not just an AC power issue.

HDMI ports/chipsets are highly susceptible to damage from static discharge, this is why you should not hot-swap HDMI cables as it increases the risk of damage.

- Jason


----------



## rustolemite

covsound1 said:


> Wow you have been through a lot. I have a trip light voltage regulator thet keeps my volts at 120 constant and also protects from surges. I am also going to do the dedicated line you stated. I hope more members would understand how important this is.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Hey is this what you are talking about? If so what makes this difference than say a Panamax MR5100? 

Cause I am getting tired of having this problem with the HDMI, I have my Marantz repaired 3 times and replaced 2 projectors because of this.


https://www.tripplite.com/1200w-120...tion-avr-ac-surge-protection-4-outlets~LC1200


Thanks


----------



## covsound1

rustolemite said:


> Hey is this what you are talking about? If so what makes this difference than say a Panamax MR5100?
> 
> Cause I am getting tired of having this problem with the HDMI, I have my Marantz repaired 3 times and replaced 2 projectors because of this.
> 
> 
> https://www.tripplite.com/1200w-120...tion-avr-ac-surge-protection-4-outlets~LC1200
> 
> 
> Thanks


Yes that is exactly what I am talking about. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## covsound1

Like to add if the Panamax Mrs has the regulation for volts than it is the same. As Skylarlove1999 pointed my next step will be a dedicated line. Brown outs are problematic to.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## vagos1103gr1

Does anybody has change in the brightness between the scenes ? It happens in some scenes and is little be annoying.


----------



## Terence

covsound1 said:


> Like to add if the Panamax Mrs has the regulation for volts than it is the same. As Skylarlove1999 pointed my next step will be a dedicated line. Brown outs are problematic to.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Only the Panamax M5400 has voltage regulation in the lineup. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bullfrog23414

Shawn Kelly said:


> Is there any interest here in a custom anamorphic lens for the 6050? Not to make this a sales discussion but just checking to see if anybody has been thinking along those lines.


Yes, very interested!


----------



## cky2354

sddawson said:


> Could be a CEC problem. Some other equipment is shutting itself down and sending a power down to the projector. Try disabling CEC on all your devices.


My issue is that the screen goes blank for couple seconds... you can still hear the audio and then it comes back. It's like it is trying to switch between different picture mode because something changed in the incoming signal... like refresh rate, SDR or HDR, 4K, 1080p or something else but I can't catch what it is because the screen goes black. This is happening on the equipment that's feeding the signal... be it Apple 4K TV, Panasonic 420, or Xidoo.. and it happens regardless of if it's SDR, HDR, 4K, 1080p, 3D, 60HZ, 24HZ... It happens at random times too. On some movies... it can go almost an hour without happening and then on some it happens every 10 mins. This becomes very distracting so I need to figure it out. It's driving me nuts. I tried all kinds of stuff like disabling CEC, any enhancement to the signal... one thing I haven't done is connect it directly to the projector without going thru the Denon. The problem of this is I get no sound so it's hard to sit and watch something dead silence for any long period of time. As someone pointed out.. could it be a power issue? It's crazy that I didn't have this issue before the firmware update though.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Shawn Kelly said:


> Is there any interest here in a custom anamorphic lens for the 6050? Not to make this a sales discussion but just checking to see if anybody has been thinking along those lines.


Good day to you. There is a compact DCR lens for sale in the classified ads. It was for the JVC/SONY 4K projectors. Could this lens be used with my Epson 6050 and what is the recommended throw ratio, 1.6? Thanks in advance.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## skylarlove1999

cky2354 said:


> My issue is that the screen goes blank for couple seconds... you can still hear the audio and then it comes back. It's like it is trying to switch between different picture mode because something changed in the incoming signal... like refresh rate, SDR or HDR, 4K, 1080p or something else but I can't catch what it is because the screen goes black. This is happening on the equipment that's feeding the signal... be it Apple 4K TV, Panasonic 420, or Xidoo.. and it happens regardless of if it's SDR, HDR, 4K, 1080p, 3D, 60HZ, 24HZ... It happens at random times too. On some movies... it can go almost an hour without happening and then on some it happens every 10 mins. This becomes very distracting so I need to figure it out. It's driving me nuts. I tried all kinds of stuff like disabling CEC, any enhancement to the signal... one thing I haven't done is connect it directly to the projector without going thru the Denon. The problem of this is I get no sound so it's hard to sit and watch something dead silence for any long period of time. As someone pointed out.. could it be a power issue? It's crazy that I didn't have this issue before the firmware update though.


Definitely connect your source to projector with same cable. You may have to repeat this other sources and possibly other cables to pinpoint where the issue is. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

Quote:
Originally Posted by *cky2354*  
_My issue is that the screen goes blank for couple seconds... you can still hear the audio and then it comes back. It's like it is trying to switch between different picture mode because something changed in the incoming signal... like refresh rate, SDR or HDR, 4K, 1080p or something else but I can't catch what it is because the screen goes black. This is happening on the equipment that's feeding the signal... be it Apple 4K TV, Panasonic 420, or Xidoo.. and it happens regardless of if it's SDR, HDR, 4K, 1080p, 3D, 60HZ, 24HZ... It happens at random times too. On some movies... it can go almost an hour without happening and then on some it happens every 10 mins. This becomes very distracting so I need to figure it out. It's driving me nuts. I tried all kinds of stuff like disabling CEC, any enhancement to the signal... one thing I haven't done is connect it directly to the projector without going thru the Denon. The problem of this is I get no sound so it's hard to sit and watch something dead silence for any long period of time. As someone pointed out.. could it be a power issue? It's crazy that I didn't have this issue before the firmware update though._






skylarlove1999 said:


> Definitely connect your source to projector with same cable. You may have to repeat this other sources and possibly other cables to pinpoint where the issue is.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk



Just a few random thoughts to add to skylarlove1999's:
Can you try reinstalling the 1.03 firmware?
Check the Denon's firmware, is it up to date?

Check the AC line to be see how consistently it maintains 120V, especially, if the projector isn't on a dedicated line.
My initial thought was that it's a HDMI CEC or handshake issue but apparently, you've ruled that out.


----------



## fredworld

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Does anybody has change in the brightness between the scenes ? It happens in some scenes and is little be annoying.



Not, as you described, that I noticed on mine but with the Auto IRIS set to HIGH the sudden blackness on fade-outs and then the quick pump back up is noticeable as opposed to the even fade out and fade in between scene changes (and often on credits) when the Auto IRIS is off.


----------



## Shawn Kelly

skylarlove1999 said:


> Good day to you. There is a compact DCR lens for sale in the classified ads. It was for the JVC/SONY 4K projectors. Could this lens be used with my Epson 6050 and what is the recommended throw ratio, 1.6? Thanks in advance.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The DCR-C is made for 17:9 projectors so it's not compatible with the 6050 (16:9). However, due to a number of inputs including those here we are exploring a new custom lens for the 6050. More to come. We will likely announce in the Panamorph section of the AVS Forum.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Shawn Kelly said:


> The DCR-C is made for 17:9 projectors so it's not compatible with the 6050 (16:9). However, due to a number of inputs including those here we are exploring a new custom lens for the 6050. More to come. We will likely announce in the Panamorph section of the AVS Forum.


Thank you. Greatly appreciated. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## mauro145

cky2354 said:


> My issue is that the screen goes blank for couple seconds... you can still hear the audio and then it comes back. It's like it is trying to switch between different picture mode because something changed in the incoming signal... like refresh rate, SDR or HDR, 4K, 1080p or something else but I can't catch what it is because the screen goes black. This is happening on the equipment that's feeding the signal... be it Apple 4K TV, Panasonic 420, or Xidoo.. and it happens regardless of if it's SDR, HDR, 4K, 1080p, 3D, 60HZ, 24HZ... It happens at random times too. On some movies... it can go almost an hour without happening and then on some it happens every 10 mins. This becomes very distracting so I need to figure it out. It's driving me nuts. I tried all kinds of stuff like disabling CEC, any enhancement to the signal... one thing I haven't done is connect it directly to the projector without going thru the Denon. The problem of this is I get no sound so it's hard to sit and watch something dead silence for any long period of time. As someone pointed out.. could it be a power issue? It's crazy that I didn't have this issue before the firmware update though.


The same was happening to me but not as frequently as in your case. I recently bought a drhdmi4k which is now connected to the output of the Marantz avr. 

Since then it didn't happen again BUT I haven't watch much of anything.

This device also injects power on the signal so if the problem doesn't appear again maybe it's power related? Even though I have an optical HDMI to the projector.

Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


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## vagos1103gr1

mauro145 said:


> The same was happening to me but not as frequently as in your case. I recently bought a drhdmi4k which is now connected to the output of the Marantz avr.
> 
> Since then it didn't happen again BUT I haven't watch much of anything.
> 
> This device also injects power on the signal so if the problem doesn't appear again maybe it's power related? Even though I have an optical HDMI to the projector.
> 
> Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


Trying to decide my favorite color mode, I tried the settings from projectorreviews in natural but I feel the picture turns to a greenish color. When I reset it comes ok but I don’t feel the blacks as blacks. I feel needs more tuning. The Dinamic settings from the forum the blacks are amazing but I feel the picture is little fake. Anybody tried some other settings?


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## mon2479

Which dynamic settings are you talking about? 

Trying to decide my favorite color mode, I tried the settings from projectorreviews in natural but I feel the picture turns to a greenish color. When I reset it comes ok but I donâ€™️t feel the blacks as blacks. I feel needs more tuning. The Dinamic settings from the forum the blacks are amazing but I feel the picture is little fake. Anybody tried some other settings?[/QUOTE]


----------



## Luminated67

mon2479 said:


> Which dynamic settings are you talking about?
> 
> Trying to decide my favorite color mode, I tried the settings from projectorreviews in natural but I feel the picture turns to a greenish color. When I reset it comes ok but I donâ€™️t feel the blacks as blacks. I feel needs more tuning. The Dinamic settings from the forum the blacks are amazing but I feel the picture is little fake. Anybody tried some other settings?


[/QUOTE]

It really depends on your room conditions whether blacks look black or not, I have inputted the Projector Reviews settings for Natural and compared them to my pro-calibrated settings, I don’t see a greenish colour at all if anything it’s a bit too reddish on my machine which brings me to the next thing that’s that all projectors are a little different and the environment of the room and the screen type used all affect how it performs so using another persons settings won’t give you the perfect image and might actually make it look worse.


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## vagos1103gr1

It really depends on your room conditions whether blacks look black or not, I have inputted the Projector Reviews settings for Natural and compared them to my pro-calibrated settings, I don’t see a greenish colour at all if anything it’s a bit too reddish on my machine which brings me to the next thing that’s that all projectors are a little different and the environment of the room and the screen type used all affect how it performs so using another persons settings won’t give you the perfect image and might actually make it look worse.[/QUOTE]
You have right it’s a bit reddish, my room has dark colors. So you are using the settings of the projectorreviews or the default one?


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## vagos1103gr1

This is the 1.03 the latest one that I have?


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## vagos1103gr1

The lens memory position doesn’t works for me. It’s all the time off from the last save position.


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## twinturbo11

Quick question regarding HDMI specs for the Epson 6050ub: Is there a point in upgrading my cables from HDMI 2.0 to 2.1 ? I plan to get the PS5 when it comes out... Or does this project not support ANY of the HDMI 2.1 specs ?

Keeping in mind that i will likely upgrade my receiver when the PS5 comes out....


----------



## DaGamePimp

twinturbo11 said:


> Quick question regarding HDMI specs for the Epson 6050ub: Is there a point in upgrading my cables from HDMI 2.0 to 2.1 ? I plan to get the PS5 when it comes out... Or does this project not support ANY of the HDMI 2.1 specs ?
> 
> Keeping in mind that i will likely upgrade my receiver when the PS5 comes out....


The 5050/6050 do not have any 2.1 based features (Variable Refresh Rate, Auto Low Latency, 4K 120Hz, etc.).


- Jason


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## misterg51

vagos1103gr1 said:


> This is the 1.03 the latest one that I have?


Yes, 1.03, and it is the latest issued.


----------



## misterg51

rustolemite said:


> Everytime I have had a problem with the power it seems to be coming through the HDMI cable, it has in the past fried the HDMI board on the Marantz and also the port it was connected to on the Epson.
> 
> Doesn't affect the other things plugged into the Marantz, so I was wondering is it because the HDMI cable I have to use, 40ft., is an "active" cable that a bit of power running through it, is that what kills the ports?



I saw a video that stated that long runs of copper eventually toast HDMI boards. The author had been through 2 or 3 receivers from using a cable longer than a certain distance. This was after his repair shop told him about it. This made me replace my long run to active optical from Audioquest Chocolate. 



After the above, and before the switch to optical, I too was having the syncing issues and blank outs, particularly from my Apple TV. The solution was to turn off all video manipulation/conversion like matching frame rate on the Apple TV, and turning off Video upscale in my AV7704. The Apple TV is now instant response and doesn't appear to look any different than before. My two cents. Peace.


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## mon2479

Just tried the dynamic OLED settings and I'm amazed at the blacks. It really does come close to my LG OLED. This is now my permanent setting for watching movies.


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## rustolemite

misterg51 said:


> I saw a video that stated that long runs of copper eventually toast HDMI boards. The author had been through 2 or 3 receivers from using a cable longer than a certain distance. This was after his repair shop told him about it. This made me replace my long run to active optical from Audioquest Chocolate.
> 
> 
> 
> After the above, and before the switch to optical, I too was having the syncing issues and blank outs, particularly from my Apple TV. The solution was to turn off all video manipulation/conversion like matching frame rate on the Apple TV, and turning off Video upscale in my AV7704. The Apple TV is now instant response and doesn't appear to look any different than before. My two cents. Peace.



This is the cable I am using to run from my AVR to my Epson which is about 40ft.
The times I have had the HDMI ports stop working it never affected the cable or the HDMI on other devices that are connected to the AVR with passive cables.
Its always the ports on the AVR and usually the port on the Epson the cable is connected too.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07287LTRZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## biglen

I don't know why everyone keeps overpaying for those HDMI cables. Blue Jeans makes great long run cables, for half the cost. I've never had an issue with my 40ft cable, and as a matter of fact, I went through 3 or 4 of those overpriced ones on Amazon, just to have to return them, because of issues. Series 3 Active are the way to go, for price and quality. 

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Sekosche

Stick to a quality brand/cable and you’ll save money in the long run.

I’ve seen too many issues with Apple TV so I avoid it like the plague, even though the wife and I both use IPhones and other Apple accessories, seen way too many issues with Apple TV and PJ’s as of late. Best of luck to those with problems.


----------



## rustolemite

biglen said:


> I don't know why everyone keeps overpaying for those HDMI cables. Blue Jeans makes great long run cables, for half the cost. I've never had an issue with my 40ft cable, and as a matter of fact, I went through 3 or 4 of those overpriced ones on Amazon, just to have to return them, because of issues. Series 3 Active are the way to go, for price and quality.
> 
> https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



I have Bluejean speaker cables but when I put in my projector they did not make an active cable for that length that would handle 18gbps speed.


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## sddawson

vagos1103gr1 said:


> The lens memory position doesn’t works for me. It’s all the time off from the last save position.


See https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-248.html#post59807212


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## Fox1966

*Flashing Blue Status and Flashing Orange Temp Light- 5050*

Tonight my two month old 5050 shut itself down in the middle of a movie, the fan came on super loud, and the blue status and orange temp lights began flashing. The fan ran for about 5 mins, but the lights continued to flash. I unplugged it. Waited about 5 or 10 mins, tried it again, and same thing. Waited about 40 minutes and tried it again, and it seemed to come on and work normally, but I didn't have time to check it out more than 5 minutes, so I don't know if the same thing will happen again when it runs awhile. Has this happened to anyone else? According to Epsons' site, this error means "fan or sensor" error. Pretty worried about my new projector, we love it and really not looking forward to having to send an essentially new projector in for repair


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## Luminated67

vagos1103gr1 said:


> You have right it’s a bit reddish, my room has dark colors. So you are using the settings of the projectorreviews or the default one?


I don’t use the default settings, read my post again my projector was professionally calibrated. All I am saying is no two projectors will show the same image with the same settings and this is partly the differences in the projectors themselves and the rest of the equipment and room they are used in.


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## mon2479

I watch 6 Underground last night on Netflix with the Dynamic settings that give great blacks and I really enjoyed everything except the IRIS normal setting is too slow for me. Some scenes had too slow of a fade for my taste. I will try high speed and see how that goes. All in all everything really pops and the blacks are really close to OLED dark. I took pictures of the blacks from Youtube with my NOTE 8 phone, I was a bit lazy and just left the 2.35:1 format on from last night and it does show, sorry for that. My entire room has ROSCO TV Black paint.


----------



## mon2479

Here are some pictures from Youtube of the RED, GREEN, YELLOW, and BLUE colors I took with my NOTE 8 phone. The yellow didn't turn out so well on the phone. Its more yellow on the screen. Again, sorry for not doing 16:9 format.


----------



## Luminated67

mon2479 said:


> I watch 6 Underground last night on Netflix with the Dynamic settings that give great blacks and I really enjoyed everything except the IRIS normal setting is too slow for me. Some scenes had too slow of a fade for my taste. I will try high speed and see how that goes. All in all everything really pops and the blacks are really close to OLED dark. I took pictures of the blacks from Youtube with my NOTE 8 phone, I was a bit lazy and just left the 2.35:1 format on from last night and it does show, sorry for that. My entire room has ROSCO TV Black paint.


I did those images in video form.


----------



## Fox1966

Fox1966 said:


> Tonight my two month old 5050 shut itself down in the middle of a movie, the fan came on super loud, and the blue status and orange temp lights began flashing. The fan ran for about 5 mins, but the lights continued to flash. I unplugged it. Waited about 5 or 10 mins, tried it again, and same thing. Waited about 40 minutes and tried it again, and it seemed to come on and work normally, but I didn't have time to check it out more than 5 minutes, so I don't know if the same thing will happen again when it runs awhile. Has this happened to anyone else? According to Epsons' site, this error means "fan or sensor" error. Pretty worried about my new projector, we love it and really not looking forward to having to send an essentially new projector in for repair


Well, I guess my two month old unit truly is dead. After letting it sit for 30 mins to an hour, it will come back on again and work correctly for about 15 minutes, and then do the same thing. This truly makes me feel ill. I called BestBuy, but of course they are not willing to help because I'm now out of the 30 day return policy. Has anyone else here had this kind of trouble with the 5050? What should I expect from Epson's customer service? I've never had to deal with them before (I typically have great luck with electronic items, I think this is the first thing I've had to break down this quickly). How long does it usually take for resolution when you are dealing with Epson? We were using this as our main source of entertainment to help us get through the Covid crisis since we can't really go anywhere or do anything (I'm high risk), so to have this happen now is especially crappy.


----------



## skylarlove1999

Fox1966 said:


> Well, I guess my two month old unit truly is dead. After letting it sit for 30 mins to an hour, it will come back on again and work correctly for about 15 minutes, and then do the same thing. This truly makes me feel ill. I called BestBuy, but of course they are not willing to help because I'm now out of the 30 day return policy. Has anyone else here had this kind of trouble with the 5050? What should I expect from Epson's customer service? I've never had to deal with them before (I typically have great luck with electronic items, I think this is the first thing I've had to break down this quickly). How long does it usually take for resolution when you are dealing with Epson? We were using this as our main source of entertainment to help us get through the Covid crisis since we can't really go anywhere or do anything (I'm high risk), so to have this happen now is especially crappy.


PM sent

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Fox1966 said:


> Well, I guess my two month old unit truly is dead. After letting it sit for 30 mins to an hour, it will come back on again and work correctly for about 15 minutes, and then do the same thing. This truly makes me feel ill. I called BestBuy, but of course they are not willing to help because I'm now out of the 30 day return policy. Has anyone else here had this kind of trouble with the 5050? What should I expect from Epson's customer service? I've never had to deal with them before (I typically have great luck with electronic items, I think this is the first thing I've had to break down this quickly). How long does it usually take for resolution when you are dealing with Epson? We were using this as our main source of entertainment to help us get through the Covid crisis since we can't really go anywhere or do anything (I'm high risk), so to have this happen now is especially crappy.


OK, can’t speak for what Epson USA are like but mine did the same thing about 38 days after I got it, rang Epson helpline and they arrange the collection from my home, it was away a total of 3 days because the repair centre wasn’t that far away but must be a very minor fix for such a quick turn around. 

So I know it’s frustrating but truth me you are in good hands.


----------



## Fox1966

Luminated67 said:


> OK, can’t speak for what Epson USA are like but mine did the same thing about 38 days after I got it, rang Epson helpline and they arrange the collection from my home, it was away a total of 3 days because the repair centre wasn’t that far away but must be a very minor fix for such a quick turn around.
> 
> So I know it’s frustrating but truth me you are in good hands.


Thanks Luminated67. I just want a replacement as fast as humanly possible, ideally a new one (not refurbished) since this one is practically brand new itself. I know these things happen, but this additional stress is something I didn't need right now.


----------



## pete ramberg

Fox1966 said:


> Thanks Luminated67. I just want a replacement as fast as humanly possible, ideally a new one (not refurbished) since this one is practically brand new itself. I know these things happen, but this additional stress is something I didn't need right now.


Have you checked the air filter??


----------



## Fox1966

pete ramberg said:


> Have you checked the air filter??


Oh yes, that was the first thing I did. We've had it less than two months, and the filter basically looked brand new when I checked it, no dust at all.


----------



## pete ramberg

Fox1966 said:


> Oh yes, that was the first thing I did. We've had it less than two months, and the filter basically looked brand new when I checked it, no dust at all.


OK - was hoping for a quick fix for you.


----------



## Fox1966

pete ramberg said:


> OK - was hoping for a quick fix for you.


Thank you, Pete. A quick fix would definitely have been awesome...


----------



## pete ramberg

Fox1966 said:


> Thank you, Pete. A quick fix would definitely have been awesome...


Years ago, I had to send an Epson 5020UB in and they (support) were quick and efficient in getting a new unit to me. Just FYI.


----------



## Fox1966

Thanks Pete, I'm keeping my fingers crossed.


----------



## misterg51

rustolemite said:


> This is the cable I am using to run from my AVR to my Epson which is about 40ft.
> The times I have had the HDMI ports stop working it never affected the cable or the HDMI on other devices that are connected to the AVR with passive cables.
> Its always the ports on the AVR and usually the port on the Epson the cable is connected too.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07287LTRZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1





That is a good cable. I suspect power issues. Is the AVR/Processor and the projector on the same circuit? Might be there in the panel, or if you have a lot of outages, I would look at something like an AudioQuest Power 3. Not sure how a fiber optic would do this, but? Glad the others are happy with Blue Jeans, use what works.


----------



## twinturbo11

*Nvidia Shield Settings > Marantz SR7011 > 6050ub*

Hey guys
I'm a first time owner of an Epson projector and excited to be part of the group!

I have a 2019 Nvidia Shield + Marantz SR7011 + 6050ub . *I couldnt find in this LONG thread the optimal resolution/hz/hdr settings for my Shield/6050ub combo.*

I assume the Marantz should have zero video processing. But should I set my Shield artificially to 1080p and let the Epson do "4K enhancement", or should I set the Shield to 4K? I played around with different options, and i cant seem to make up my mind which one is better.

Ideally the Shield is in 4K, because I also use it on my regular 4K TV during day-time use.

If the Shield is 4K, should i choose one of the presented "default resolution options" such as 4k 59fps (or 1080p 23fps HDR etc.....,) or, should i dig in deeper in the long list of resolutions to choose something else with HDR? (I have fiber optic HDMI 2.0 cables)

Finally two more questions: (1) if the Shield is 4K and the Epson option for 4K enhancement is greyed out, am i still getting faux4k / lens shifting, (2) do you guys turn on the Nvidia Ai / resolution sharpening stuff?


THANKS!!


----------



## Luminated67

Fox1966 said:


> Thanks Luminated67. I just want a replacement as fast as humanly possible, ideally a new one (not refurbished) since this one is practically brand new itself. I know these things happen, but this additional stress is something I didn't need right now.


I don’t know what US policy is but here in the UK beyond 30 days it’s repair not replace. Frankly I would actually prefer it repair than a new machine that might happen again, with a repair they check everything out so the fault shouldn’t happen again and in my case I’m 14-15 months in after the repair and touch wood never missed a beat.


----------



## Fox1966

Well, I called Epson this morning. Spoke to someone who simply said the unit would have to be replaced. I very nicely explained my situation and why I felt that I should be receiving a new unit and not a refurbished one from "B" stock....she put me on hold and said she checked and there were "no new units in stock to send." They show in stock on Epson's website though. 

She then told me that it would take up to two days for someone else to call me and get my credit card info for the "credit card hold" before they would ship, and then another 3 to 5 days to ship and receive.

Does this sound right? From the experience of others that I've read through, I thought Epson got these out pretty much same day?

*Update: They already called me back, and said the refurbished unit will likely ship out today, 2nd day via Fed-Ex. Keeping fingers crossed that this all works out and I'm as happy with the unit they send as I was with this unit before it crapped out. I'll post an update when there is something to update.


----------



## covsound1

Fox1966 said:


> Well, I called Epson this morning. Spoke to someone who simply said the unit would have to be replaced. I very nicely explained my situation and why I felt that I should be receiving a new unit and not a refurbished one from "B" stock....she put me on hold and said she checked and there were "no new units in stock to send." They show in stock on Epson's website though.
> 
> She then told me that it would take up to two days for someone else to call me and get my credit card info for the "credit card hold" before they would ship, and then another 3 to 5 days to ship and receive.
> 
> Does this sound right? From the experience of others that I've read through, I thought Epson got these out pretty much same day?
> 
> *Update: They already called me back, and said the refurbished unit will likely ship out today, 2nd day via Fed-Ex. Keeping fingers crossed that this all works out and I'm as happy with the unit they send as I was with this unit before it crapped out. I'll post an update when there is something to update.


Very sorry for you hope this all works out:frown:


----------



## rollon1980

Fox1966 said:


> Tonight my two month old 5050 shut itself down in the middle of a movie, the fan came on super loud, and the blue status and orange temp lights began flashing. The fan ran for about 5 mins, but the lights continued to flash. I unplugged it. Waited about 5 or 10 mins, tried it again, and same thing. Waited about 40 minutes and tried it again, and it seemed to come on and work normally, but I didn't have time to check it out more than 5 minutes, so I don't know if the same thing will happen again when it runs awhile. Has this happened to anyone else? According to Epsons' site, this error means "fan or sensor" error. Pretty worried about my new projector, we love it and really not looking forward to having to send an essentially new projector in for repair


Remove lamp and re-install it. It can be due to a lamp that is not properly sitting in the unit / has been knocked out of place. It could also be a faulty lamp. The ballast on these units does not have a known issue but it could be that if reinstalling the lamp (or failing that replacing it) does not solve your issue.


----------



## Fox1966

covsound1 said:


> Very sorry for you hope this all works out:frown:


Covsound1, thank you...


----------



## covsound1

Fox1966 said:


> Covsound1, thank you...


If you have a 5050 and they send you a 6050 that might be a lucky option for you. But there is nothing like having your original unit that was brand new in the box. From your info you stated that they took your credit card information so you still have your original unit. I would recommend when the refurbished unit arrives and if not new swap the lamp and check to see if it is stable. When you unpluged the your unit youmay not have accounted for,you may have had a brown out condition or under volt which will throw a fault. The power companies do this all this all the time especially at night. I am telling you this because I had this happen to Me Too! Knock on wood she is still running strong with 600+ hours. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## vagos1103gr1

I bought an elite screen 125 2.35.1 and this thing is amazing, to be able to change the aspect ratio. Unfortunately the lens memory to me is not accurate. I have all the time to make micro adjustment. To 2.35.1 I don’t know how is accurate. But when I try the 16.9 after I followed the epson instructions is returning to previous same off position. I save it in different memory slots but is still by little off. I remember somebody in this forum have the same problem. Did he resolve it. Maybe I got a lemon? I wrote to epson support, let’s see what they gonna say. And again I followed the instructions somebody post here from the support page of the lens position on epson.

This guy here he makes micro adjustment so easy and he is able to save it. To me even I saved it I have to adjust my little again.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

vagos1103gr1 said:


> I bought an elite screen 125 2.35.1 and this thing is amazing, to be able to change the aspect ratio. Unfortunately the lens memory to me is not accurate. I have all the time to make micro adjustment. To 2.35.1 I don’t know how is accurate. But when I try the 16.9 after I followed the epson instructions is returning to previous same off position. I save it in different memory slots but is still by little off. I remember somebody in this forum have the same problem. Did he resolve it. Maybe I got a lemon? I wrote to epson support, let’s see what they gonna say. And again I followed the instructions somebody post here from the support page of the lens position on epson.
> 
> This guy here he makes micro adjustment so easy and he is able to save it. To me even I saved it I have to adjust my little again.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WCk1PqZ4HQ


I make a quick video with my problem.


----------



## dimi123

vagos1103gr1 said:


> I bought an elite screen 125 2.35.1 and this thing is amazing, to be able to change the aspect ratio. Unfortunately the lens memory to me is not accurate. I have all the time to make micro adjustment. To 2.35.1 I don’t know how is accurate. But when I try the 16.9 after I followed the epson instructions is returning to previous same off position. I save it in different memory slots but is still by little off. I remember somebody in this forum have the same problem. Did he resolve it. Maybe I got a lemon? I wrote to epson support, let’s see what they gonna say. And again I followed the instructions somebody post here from the support page of the lens position on epson.
> 
> This guy here he makes micro adjustment so easy and he is able to save it. To me even I saved it I have to adjust my little again.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WCk1PqZ4HQ


There's nothing wrong with your projector. Just accept that Epson's lens memory isn't perfect. I've 6 saved lens memory positions for different aspect ratios. Some are better than others, but I'll have to adjust almost all of them a little bit when not using my anamorphic lens. This guy's adjustments are also not perfect. You'll have to use the internal test pattern to judge accurately, not a still picture from a movie. He's overshooting on all 4 sides of the screen as the movie has a 2.40:1 aspect ratio, that's why an inch to any of the sides is not noticeable in this clip. His 16:9 image seems shifted more to the right.


----------



## aoaaron

Fox1966 said:


> Thanks Luminated67. I just want a replacement as fast as humanly possible, ideally a new one (not refurbished) since this one is practically brand new itself. I know these things happen, but this additional stress is something I didn't need right now.




I had the same issue 17 days into purchase and was gutted. 

Ended up returning it as there were no new 9400s/6050ubs in the stock... so I think the shortage for this PJ is real.

Its an amazing PJ but sadly it caught me on the wrong day where I was pissed off so I just returned it.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

dimi123 said:


> There's nothing wrong with your projector. Just accept that Epson's lens memory isn't perfect. I've 6 saved lens memory positions for different aspect ratios. Some are better than others, but I'll have to adjust almost all of them a little bit when not using my anamorphic lens. This guy's adjustments are also not perfect. You'll have to use the internal test pattern to judge accurately, not a still picture from a movie. He's overshooting on all 4 sides of the screen as the movie has a 2.40:1 aspect ratio, that's why an inch to any of the sides is not noticeable in this clip. His 16:9 image seems shifted more to the right.


Epson doesn’t think the same. 
I just received an email from them after my inquiry to them:

Lens memory position failed most of the time. 
I tried many times for 16:9 and 2.35.1 to save the lens memory potition but most of the time I need to make micro adjustments. I saw somewhere on youtube that user was successful save the lens memory no matter how adjust it. To me fail most of the time. Propably a fail unit?
Answer from epson:

Unfortunately, the issue you are describing points towards an unrecoverable internal error with the projector and the unit will likely need to be replaced. 
To return back to the dealer for a new one or to epson for a refurbished one?


----------



## dimi123

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Epson doesn’t think the same.
> I just received an email from them after my inquiry to them:
> 
> Lens memory position failed most of the time.
> I tried many times for 16:9 and 2.35.1 to save the lens memory potition but most of the time I need to make micro adjustments. I saw somewhere on youtube that user was successful save the lens memory no matter how adjust it. To me fail most of the time. Propably a fail unit?
> Answer from epson:
> 
> Unfortunately, the issue you are describing points towards an unrecoverable internal error with the projector and the unit will likely need to be replaced.
> To return back to the dealer for a new one or to epson for a refurbished one?


I have three Epson units and they all behave the same. It's normal. Try moving the lens horizontally in one direction and save the position afterwards. You will need to do this more than once. I would exchange the Epson only for a new unit, not for a refurbished one. Good luck!


----------



## vagos1103gr1

dimi123 said:


> I have three Epson units and they all behave the same. It's normal. Try moving the lens horizontally in one direction and save the position afterwards. You will need to do this more than once. I would exchange the Epson only for a new unit, not for a refurbished one. Good luck!


My offset is little bit vertical and needs little zoom out. No matter what save I do is going back in my first setup 16:9 ratio. I tried to erase the lens position but nothing. I didn’t try yet to reset the settings.


----------



## dimi123

vagos1103gr1 said:


> My offset is little bit vertical and needs little zoom out. No matter what save I do is going back in my first setup 16:9 ratio. I tried to erase the lens position but nothing. I didn’t try yet to reset the settings.


Try adjusting for zoom first and save, then adjust vertically and save and lastly adjust horizontally and save. Always move the lens in one direction with at least 6 clicks.


----------



## Luminated67

I must be a lucky one because my lens memory seems to hit the mark pretty close and by close I mean with in 4-5mm.


----------



## rustolemite

In case anybody is wondering the 1.03 update it back on the US Epson website. 

Has anybody else have anymore "Handshake" issues after updating to the new firmware?


Thanks


----------



## HTX^2steve

Don't get me going on that lens memory crap. If you search my back posts you will see what Epson sent me regarding what everyone has been saying to half ass fix it. It does suck that we spend mucho cashola on this pretty projector and for us out there that switch between aspect ratios does put a damper on things. Epson doesn't give a crap about it so here we are. I wouldn't waste your time sending it back and then having it do the same thing you would just be going in circles.


----------



## JonfromCB

rustolemite said:


> In case anybody is wondering the 1.03 update it back on the US Epson website.
> 
> Has anybody else have anymore "Handshake" issues after updating to the new firmware?
> 
> 
> Thanks


Well, kind-of. I'm using a 50' Ruipro. Sometimes I leave the PJ off and listen to Music Choice (via my cable provider), or turn the PJ off and leave the cable music source on. Since the update my Denon AVR isn't recognizing my cable box unless the PJ is on.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

HTX^2steve said:


> Don't get me going on that lens memory crap. If you search my back posts you will see what Epson sent me regarding what everyone has been saying to half ass fix it. It does suck that we spend mucho cashola on this pretty projector and for us out there that switch between aspect ratios does put a damper on things. Epson doesn't give a crap about it so here we are. I wouldn't waste your time sending it back and then having it do the same thing you would just be going in circles.


Can you sent me a link of your previous post about this? For me this is a big deal and maybe I have to return it back to the dealer. 
I email the dealer about the issue and responded to call epson. Since my 30 days didn’t passed already I will insist to return to them.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

I scaled epson for the exchange and I asked them if they gonna sent me a refurbished unit or new. They told me they gonna sent me a new one. Should I trust them? From where I will know if the unit is not refurbished? I fixed the aspect ratio for both 16:9 and 2.35.1 now by a little bit off.


----------



## tomtoo

To avoid digging through the lengthy thread, is the Peerless-AV PRG-UNV a good mount for 5050ub? Going in dedicated room with 10 ft. ceilings, and may be upgrading from 133" to a 150" screen that i would prefer to keep 18" or so from floor to avoid craning neck upward (current 133" screen about 26" from floor now to fit dual power sound audio subs i will have to move). Not sure if i understand epson calculator well enough to be sure i can accomplish this. I would expect I would be adding a pipe to lower mount a little, maybe 6-9 inches long. Want the sturdiest connection to ceiling i can get as I live in home built on pilings in an often windy climate.
This is what I've found for mount components:

1. Mount
https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-AV-...dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=psdc_10967521_t1_B00GYUQT8C

2. Joist attachment
https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-ACC...0ZYPGX7Y7SN&psc=1&refRID=1VK7SWY6F0ZYPGX7Y7SN

3. Pipe extension
https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-Ind...6QB612GGJ95&psc=1&refRID=TQFKKHM7X6QB612GGJ95


----------



## dimi123

vagos1103gr1 said:


> I scaled epson for the exchange and I asked them if they gonna sent me a refurbished unit or new. They told me they gonna sent me a new one. Should I trust them? From where I will know if the unit is not refurbished? I fixed the aspect ratio for both 16:9 and 2.35.1 now by a little bit off.


I wouldn't risk it if your Epson has good convergence, sharpness and no dead pixels or dust blobs. There is always a chance that even a new one will have some of these problems.


----------



## skylarlove1999

vagos1103gr1 said:


> I scaled epson for the exchange and I asked them if they gonna sent me a refurbished unit or new. They told me they gonna sent me a new one. Should I trust them? From where I will know if the unit is not refurbished? I fixed the aspect ratio for both 16:9 and 2.35.1 now by a little bit off.


The next projector is not going to be that much better if any in fact it could be worse you just need to overscan a little bit that's why there's a feature on the projector for overscan or you can just do it manually lastly you guys were chasing Perfection you need to buy a television instead for real

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## vagos1103gr1

When I go to the service menu says total operation time 59h and lamp op time 84h. Which one is correct? Definitely I don’t have 84 h on the pj. Maybe they sold me a slightly used?


----------



## McLuvin

twinturbo11 said:


> Hey guys
> I'm a first time owner of an Epson projector and excited to be part of the group!
> 
> I have a 2019 Nvidia Shield + Marantz SR7011 + 6050ub . *I couldnt find in this LONG thread the optimal resolution/hz/hdr settings for my Shield/6050ub combo.*
> 
> I assume the Marantz should have zero video processing. But should I set my Shield artificially to 1080p and let the Epson do "4K enhancement", or should I set the Shield to 4K? I played around with different options, and i cant seem to make up my mind which one is better.
> 
> Ideally the Shield is in 4K, because I also use it on my regular 4K TV during day-time use.
> 
> If the Shield is 4K, should i choose one of the presented "default resolution options" such as 4k 59fps (or 1080p 23fps HDR etc.....,) or, should i dig in deeper in the long list of resolutions to choose something else with HDR? (I have fiber optic HDMI 2.0 cables)
> 
> Finally two more questions: (1) if the Shield is 4K and the Epson option for 4K enhancement is greyed out, am i still getting faux4k / lens shifting, (2) do you guys turn on the Nvidia Ai / resolution sharpening stuff?
> 
> 
> THANKS!!



I have a Shield Pro as well and was wondering the same thing... I don't have the projector but have been seriously considering it. I say play with it and see what gets you the best results. I would be curious what you figure out in case I ever do get one of these projectors.


----------



## DJConan

twinturbo11 said:


> Hey guys
> I'm a first time owner of an Epson projector and excited to be part of the group!
> 
> I have a 2019 Nvidia Shield + Marantz SR7011 + 6050ub . *I couldnt find in this LONG thread the optimal resolution/hz/hdr settings for my Shield/6050ub combo.*
> 
> I assume the Marantz should have zero video processing. But should I set my Shield artificially to 1080p and let the Epson do "4K enhancement", or should I set the Shield to 4K? I played around with different options, and i cant seem to make up my mind which one is better.
> 
> Ideally the Shield is in 4K, because I also use it on my regular 4K TV during day-time use.
> 
> If the Shield is 4K, should i choose one of the presented "default resolution options" such as 4k 59fps (or 1080p 23fps HDR etc.....,) or, should i dig in deeper in the long list of resolutions to choose something else with HDR? (I have fiber optic HDMI 2.0 cables)
> 
> Finally two more questions: (1) if the Shield is 4K and the Epson option for 4K enhancement is greyed out, am i still getting faux4k / lens shifting, (2) do you guys turn on the Nvidia Ai / resolution sharpening stuff?
> 
> 
> THANKS!!


I couldn't say my method is ideal or right, but I set my Shield on 4K 24fps HDR and leave the Epson on the 4K setting. I leave the resolution enhancement on, but I believe that only works when the content is a lower resolution than your projector supports.


----------



## Fox1966

Fox1966 said:


> Well, I called Epson this morning. Spoke to someone who simply said the unit would have to be replaced. I very nicely explained my situation and why I felt that I should be receiving a new unit and not a refurbished one from "B" stock....she put me on hold and said she checked and there were "no new units in stock to send." They show in stock on Epson's website though.
> 
> She then told me that it would take up to two days for someone else to call me and get my credit card info for the "credit card hold" before they would ship, and then another 3 to 5 days to ship and receive.
> 
> Does this sound right? From the experience of others that I've read through, I thought Epson got these out pretty much same day?
> 
> *Update: They already called me back, and said the refurbished unit will likely ship out today, 2nd day via Fed-Ex. Keeping fingers crossed that this all works out and I'm as happy with the unit they send as I was with this unit before it crapped out. I'll post an update when there is something to update.


I received my replacement projector today! Time with it has been limited...but my first impressions are that I think I ended up with a unit that is even a little better than my original!! I'm so happy right now!!!!!

There are some definite differences (positive ones) between this one and my original....will go into more details after I spend some time with it. But I would absolutely never know that this was a "refurbished" unit...still not totally sure that it is....it looks brand spanking new! More to come!


----------



## srees304

Anyone willing to post some pictures or makes comments on the focus sharpness and uniformity of their 5050UB, with computer text? My Macbook Pro is happy to put out 4K (3840x2160) with a browser or text editor, and with the 5050 on sale right now, it's tempting - but only if I can get good sharp text across the screen.


----------



## ryudoadema

tomtoo said:


> To avoid digging through the lengthy thread, is the Peerless-AV PRG-UNV a good mount for 5050ub? Going in dedicated room with 10 ft. ceilings, and may be upgrading from 133" to a 150" screen that i would prefer to keep 18" or so from floor to avoid craning neck upward (current 133" screen about 26" from floor now to fit dual power sound audio subs i will have to move). Not sure if i understand epson calculator well enough to be sure i can accomplish this. I would expect I would be adding a pipe to lower mount a little, maybe 6-9 inches long. Want the sturdiest connection to ceiling i can get as I live in home built on pilings in an often windy climate.
> This is what I've found for mount components:
> 
> 1. Mount
> https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-AV-...dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=psdc_10967521_t1_B00GYUQT8C
> 
> 2. Joist attachment
> https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-ACC...0ZYPGX7Y7SN&psc=1&refRID=1VK7SWY6F0ZYPGX7Y7SN
> 
> 3. Pipe extension
> https://www.amazon.com/Peerless-Ind...6QB612GGJ95&psc=1&refRID=TQFKKHM7X6QB612GGJ95


I have my 5040ub with that mount with a 3 or 4" pipe to a board bridging two studs in my basement. When people are walking around right above it, it wobbles quite a bit. That is definitely partially due to the floor above not being the most stable, but also when I push the pj it does wobble a bit before becoming still. It is a very good mount though, and I think the only one recommended more than peerless is the chief one. I would have gotten that one for a little more had I known about the wobble with the peerless, but I don't know if the chief would be any better. It really has only happened a few times since I got the mount several months ago, so not worth changing out for now.


----------



## zambine

Does anyone have the release notes for the 1.03 firmware update or any previous releases? 

I just purchased my 5050UB today (replacing a BenQ HT5550) and I am interested in what updates have been made. 

I looked back several pages on this thread and did not see this discussed. I also do not see the notes anywhere on Epson's website.


----------



## srees304

zambine said:


> Does anyone have the release notes for the 1.03 firmware update or any previous releases?
> 
> I just purchased my 5050UB today (replacing a BenQ HT5550) and I am interested in what updates have been made.
> 
> I looked back several pages on this thread and did not see this discussed. I also do not see the notes anywhere on Epson's website.


I'd be curious why you swapped from the HT5550, and if you feel it was worth it once you get it setup. I just watched a youtube comparing the two and they appeared very, very close.


----------



## zambine

srees304 said:


> I'd be curious why you swapped from the HT5550, and if you feel it was worth it once you get it setup. I just watched a youtube comparing the two and they appeared very, very close.


Here are my reasons for swapping:

#1 - Moving to a new house. I am going from a smallish bat cave theater to a very large theater that has great light control but can also be opened up to let in ambient light for social gatherings.

#2 - I now have the room to ditch the 135" screen that barely fit in my room and go to a 158" anamorphic screen with plenty of space to spare. I'm excited to use the lens memory on the 5050UB with this.

#3 - I am a gamer who plays FPS games (PUBG, COD) and also some timing based games like Star Wars: Jedi Fallen Order. I have never noticed lag on a DLP PJ before but I did notice the HT5550 impacting my FPS scores and also the timing of strikes/parrying on SWJFO. This was very concerning to me.


While I really liked the HT5550 I only went with it because I was worried about losing sharpness/detail on my 135" screen sitting from 10-11 feet away. I will now be sitting a bit farther back and could really use a light cannon with low input lag!

I will definitely post my impressions vs the HT5550. I do not move until the 26th but I am hoping to set up the 5050UB in my current theater for a little while before the move.


----------



## smile

Trying to update firmware.
Unplugged PJ, Plugged in USB FAT32 drive to USB-A slot, with only the .bin file.
Plugged in power cord while holding On button. Released when a blue and 2 orange lites came on solid.
5-10 seconds later, lites started blinking blue for only a few seconds then ... solid blue I believe (?).
The menu shows 101 firmware.


FAT file type on USB is required. Is that FAT32 or exFAT?
Other ideas?
Thx


----------



## tomgru

smile said:


> Trying to update firmware.
> Unplugged PJ, Plugged in USB FAT32 drive to USB-A slot, with only the .bin file.
> Plugged in power cord while holding On button. Released when a blue and 2 orange lites came on solid.
> 5-10 seconds later, lites started blinking blue for only a few seconds then ... solid blue I believe (?).
> The menu shows 101 firmware.
> 
> 
> FAT file type on USB is required. Is that FAT32 or exFAT?
> Other ideas?
> Thx


 I had same problem when i tried yesterday about 10x times!

Rechecked,... somehow had formatted USB with NTFS. you want FAT32.


----------



## smile

tomgru said:


> I had same problem when i tried yesterday about 10x times!
> 
> Rechecked,... somehow had formatted USB with NTFS. you want FAT32.



My drive is 30Gig in FAT32.
File is H928YRC012.bin


I'll reformat and retry.


----------



## tomgru

smile said:


> My drive is 30Gig in FAT32.
> File is H928YRC012.bin
> 
> 
> I'll reformat and retry.


I also used a very old USB drive (saw that rec'd somewhere). might see if you have something smaller around.


----------



## tomtoo

ryudoadema said:


> I have my 5040ub with that mount with a 3 or 4" pipe to a board bridging two studs in my basement. When people are walking around right above it, it wobbles quite a bit. That is definitely partially due to the floor above not being the most stable, but also when I push the pj it does wobble a bit before becoming still. It is a very good mount though, and I think the only one recommended more than peerless is the chief one. I would have gotten that one for a little more had I known about the wobble with the peerless, but I don't know if the chief would be any better. It really has only happened a few times since I got the mount several months ago, so not worth changing out for now.


Thanks for reply. Anyone have experience with chief mount with model number so i can pick one? With your peerless do you thing the gearing in the mount is the concern? Seems like that would be the only weak link. My current mount wobbles because of a crappy pipe extension design.
Also would appreciate feedback from all that this projector can do vertical shift from my 10 ft ceiling position to just about 18" from floor, thanks!


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Anybody knows any good solution to move the subtitles on 2.35.1 films, while I stream on nvidia shield pro? On Plex there is a way on settings. I can’t find on kodi and on Amazon prime.


----------



## alangsk

Anyone out there that has their 5040, 5050, or 6050 sitting in a recess in your rear soffit....

What is the width, height, and depth of your recess? Pictures?


----------



## biglen

alangsk said:


> Anyone out there that has their 5040, 5050, or 6050 sitting in a recess in your rear soffit....
> 
> What is the width, height, and depth of your recess? Pictures?


I have my 5050 recessed in the wall. The box is 28"w x 11"h x 23"d. I recently added a fan and fan control to the box, because it was around 100° in the box. Now I have it set to stay at 80°.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## asolor78

@DaGamePimp.. any calibrations update with that 820 last firmware update u had made?...


----------



## imsatasia

smile said:


> My drive is 30Gig in FAT32.
> File is H928YRC012.bin
> 
> I'll reformat and retry.


I tried a lot of scenario FAT32, FAT and none of them worked with USB stick. I also, tried 2 different USB sticks.
File: *EPSONPJ_H928YRC012.bin*

I found older firmware update PDF somewhere and tried below:

Connected USB cable from my laptop to EPSON (Mini-USB port). 
Plugged in Power cable while pressing the Power button on the projector. Which opened "EPSON_PJ" removable drive on my laptop. 
Then I just dropped/copy the firmware file to the root of "EPSON_PJ". 
After that, I removed/Eject "EPSON_PJ" from my laptop and disconnected Mini-USB cable from EPSON projector.
Then my projector started blinking all lights and firmware installation started


----------



## DaGamePimp

asolor78 said:


> @DaGamePimp.. any calibrations update with that 820 last firmware update u had made?...


Sorry, still waiting on some new gear to arrive (shipping delays). 

- Jason


----------



## alangsk

biglen said:


> I have my 5050 recessed in the wall. The box is 28"w x 11"h x 23"d. I recently added a fan and fan control to the box, because it was around 100° in the box. Now I have it set to stay at 80°.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Nice! Does the added AC Infinity fan add much overall noise?


----------



## biglen

alangsk said:


> Nice! Does the added AC Infinity fan add much overall noise?


Not at all. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## asolor78

DaGamePimp said:


> asolor78 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @DaGamePimp.. any calibrations update with that 820 last firmware update u had made?...
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, still waiting on some new gear to arrive (shipping delays). /forum/images/smilies/redface.gif
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

 Appreciate the response, been enjoying some calibrations given here, have to say bright cinema given in earlier thread with brightness lowered below 42 amazingly gives a great image.. has been a go too for specific night movies.. such as alien covenant.. thanks everyone for all the support.. have a Happy 4th of July for those dealing with this chaos( here in the u.s).., but stay safe for those abroad


----------



## termite

For those of you who were asking for a way to get some calibration settings for 3D, have you tried this?


----------



## DJConan

termite said:


> For those of you who were asking for a way to get some calibration settings for 3D, have you tried this?


Is that the Disney WOW disc?


----------



## Fox1966

Fox1966 said:


> I received my replacement projector today! Time with it has been limited...but my first impressions are that I think I ended up with a unit that is even a little better than my original!! I'm so happy right now!!!!!
> 
> There are some definite differences (positive ones) between this one and my original....will go into more details after I spend some time with it. But I would absolutely never know that this was a "refurbished" unit...still not totally sure that it is....it looks brand spanking new! More to come!


Have been able to spend some time with the new projector over the weekend! So glad it arrived before the holiday, as it provided our entertainment. I can really see now that there are definite variations from projector to projector. The one I received seems to have better grayscale and contrast, which was really surprising to me. 

Also, on my original projector, I had to keep the HDR slider on 4 and sometimes 5 (after the 1.03 update). The new projector came in with it set to 8, which looked really good...I dropped it down to 7 which seems to work well as a "set and forget" setting now. On my original projector, if I were to set it on 8 it would have been so dark and dim I wouldn't have been able to see much of anything. When the replacement arrived, it was already updated to 1.03 firmware, which was nice. I am super happy at how this all worked out, and really thankful to Epson for the quick turnaround.


----------



## termite

DJConan said:


> Is that the Disney WOW disc?


Actually no. I have the Disney WOW also but don't recall any calibration specific to 3D while wearing 3D glasses.
This 3D specific calibration I found included as an extra in the Coco 3D blu-ray release.
https://www.blu-ray.com/movies/Coco-3D-Blu-ray/197362/

It's the first 3D disk I have seen this out of close to 100 I have watched so far ..


----------



## tomgru

Hey all... this is probably a really dumb ass question.... and then some advice.

I have a 5050ub installed... put in a new house i moved into relatively recently. More on the install/room below, but first the dumb question. I haven't done any type of calibration yet, and just had it on dynamic mode. Recently been following this thread as I started looking into how to calibrate, and noticed the firmware upgrade to 1.03, which i did.

When i was looking at the menus today, I noticed that no matter what color mode I was in, all the settings still seemed to be set at 50% (brightness, contrast, etc). If I switched color modes, the image did appear to change, but again, the settings were all the same. Is that normal?

My setup is a VERY large room, with a ton of ambient light coming from two large sliding glass doors and a bay window. The room is effectively divided into two parts, the first being the theater with a large sectional separating the room into two. Second part has a pool table. 

Walls/ceiling painted chocolate brown, and I do have blackout curtains for the sliders, etc.... so pretty dark if i want to watch a movie. 

Screen is a Elite Screens Aeon Series, 120-inch CineGrey Matte Grey... I had this in my old house and really liked how it dealt with ambient light.
Receiver is a Denon 4500
Sources predominantly TV via TIVO mini, and streaming movies and occasional Blueray via Xbox One X. 

I've been overall pretty happy, but then i see some of the pictures you guys are posting and think i'm not even close to pushing this thing to what it can do, room issues notwithstanding. 

I see lots of different reco's on calibration settings... was thinking of maybe getting the Disney WOW disc and try that first. I'm not a total idiot, but some of these settings seem way over my head. 

Happy for any thoughts based on my situ. Thanks.


----------



## rollon1980

Ok guys. Found the correct pattern to calibrate colour luminance for HDR in Dynamic so reposting the settings with the correct color luminance values and some gamma tweaks that should make it work for more people without black crush.

If you use this mode already, you need to update: RGBCMY values and maybe gamma values (but you can use whichever version works best for gamma for you) 

picture mode: dynamic
Color temp: 7
Skin tone: 4
Custom color temp:
Offset R: 49
Offset G: 49
Offset B: 49
(Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
Gain R: 50
Gain G: 50
Gain B: 50

Grayscale:
8 0:0:0
7 24:-25:0
6 11:-15:0
5 6:-10:0
4 4:-6:0
3 2:-4:0
2 0:-1:1
1 0:0:0

Gamma: custom
Custom points:
2nd from left: -5
all other gamma values default


RGBCMY:
R: 60:37:42
G: 55:35:47
B:60:34:53
C: 0:45:35
M: 60:49:36
Y: 58:50:48

High Lamp / medium lamp works too

HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here. 

Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)


----------



## Seawater

*Red or Dead Pixel*

I have an Epson 6050 I purchased about 4 months ago. It has now 65 hours on it. I noticed a small red dot near the center of viewing. I used the lens shift and moved it to the left and right, to make sure it wasn’t the screen. And it is the projector. I’ve owned a 5020 and 5040 in the past and never had this problem. It reminds of a cat’s laser pointer shooting at the screen. Will Epson fix or replace this? Or are there any solutions?


----------



## HTX^2steve

Seawater said:


> I have an Epson 6050 I purchased about 4 months ago. It has now 65 hours on it. I noticed a small red dot near the center of viewing. I used the lens shift and moved it to the left and right, to make sure it wasn’t the screen. And it is the projector. I’ve owned a 5020 and 5040 in the past and never had this problem. It reminds of a cat’s laser pointer shooting at the screen. Will Epson fix or replace this? Or are there any solutions?


Black sharpie will make that red go away!... Guess it is time to call Epson..but if I remember if it is a dead pixel it has to be a certain percentage of the total screen for them to replace the unit.


----------



## fredworld

Seawater said:


> I have an Epson 6050 I purchased about 4 months ago. It has now 65 hours on it. I noticed a small red dot near the center of viewing. I used the lens shift and moved it to the left and right, to make sure it wasn’t the screen. And it is the projector. I’ve owned a 5020 and 5040 in the past and never had this problem. It reminds of a cat’s laser pointer shooting at the screen. Will Epson fix or replace this? Or are there any solutions?



Check out *this post*. The suspected dead pixel was a dust particle. Also, search this thread for "dead" to see if there are other posts.


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> I'm not sure what you mean by taking a hit, but my picture is stunning. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191106/0d6d73153bcf43b06b733f9400c6f085.jpg[/IMG]
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 @biglen this was before i got may 5050 but one of the Pictures why i did. What movie is this it has been bugging me!


----------



## noob00224

covsound1 said:


> @*biglen* this was before i got may 5050 but one of the Pictures why i did. What movie is this it has been bugging me!


Exodus Gods and Kings, and Chappie.


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> Exodus Gods and Kings, and Chappie.


Yup. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> Yup.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


The movie was Chappie. Thanks Small world back then hadn't even realized it was your pictures .

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## bezlar

mon2479 said:


> Just tried the dynamic OLED settings and I'm amazed at the blacks. It really does come close to my LG OLED. This is now my permanent setting for watching movies.



Where does one find the dynamic oled settings?

Thanks. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## bezlar

Also tried watching star is born last night. Played through my Panasonic uhd player. Couldn’t get the projector to say it was in hdr it keep saying sdr no matter what I changed in the uhd player? This is a brand new 6050 replacing an old 5040. Just looking for some settings. I used bright cinema on my 5040 but hdr was always to dark. Hoping the new 6050 would do a better job. I was using cinema last night goofing around. Looked really good with Netflix’s uhd


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

bezlar said:


> Also tried watching star is born last night. Played through my Panasonic uhd player. Couldn’t get the projector to say it was in hdr it keep saying sdr no matter what I changed in the uhd player? This is a brand new 6050 replacing an old 5040. Just looking for some settings. I used bright cinema on my 5040 but hdr was always to dark. Hoping the new 6050 would do a better job. I was using cinema last night goofing around. Looked really good with Netflix’s uhd
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Make sure you HDMI setting are set to "enhanced". Your old 5040 had 300MHZ HDMI chips but the 6050 has 600MHZ chips so it's very possible your HDMI cable may need an upgrade.


----------



## bezlar

rekbones said:


> Make sure you HDMI setting are set to "enhanced". Your old 5040 had 300MHZ HDMI chips but the 6050 has 600MHZ chips so it's very possible your HDMI cable may need an upgrade.



Thanks but I replaced my old hdmi with a new fiber optic one just for that reason. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

bezlar said:


> Thanks but I replaced my old hdmi with a new fiber optic one just for that reason.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Is the new cable lab certified to 600MHZ or at least one that someone else has used with good success?


----------



## Manu9

Seawater said:


> I have an Epson 6050 I purchased about 4 months ago. It has now 65 hours on it. I noticed a small red dot near the center of viewing. I used the lens shift and moved it to the left and right, to make sure it wasn’t the screen. And it is the projector. I’ve owned a 5020 and 5040 in the past and never had this problem. It reminds of a cat’s laser pointer shooting at the screen. Will Epson fix or replace this? Or are there any solutions?



65 hours in 4 months? I think I need to slow down, I'm at about 120 hours 3 weeks, although I have no TV so it's my main viewing outlet.


----------



## bezlar

rekbones said:


> Is the new cable lab certified to 600MHZ or at least one that someone else has used with good success?



Netflix and prime both read hdr on projector info screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Yveke

rollon1980 said:


> Ok guys. Found the correct pattern to calibrate colour luminance for HDR in Dynamic so reposting the settings with the correct color luminance values and some gamma tweaks that should make it work for more people without black crush.
> 
> If you use this mode already, you need to update: RGBCMY values and maybe gamma values (but you can use whichever version works best for gamma for you)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 50
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 24:-25:0
> 6 11:-15:0
> 5 6:-10:0
> 4 4:-6:0
> 3 2:-4:0
> 2 0:-1:1
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 2nd from left: -5
> all other gamma values default
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> C: 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)



Hi, do the rest of the settings (brightness, contrast, etc...) stay default as per Dynamic? Since this is Dynamic i.e. wihout the filter used with Digital Cinema, what is the difference in terms of accuracy, other HDR impact?


Tnx,


Yveke.


----------



## zambine

skylarlove1999 said:


> I would be shocked if a projector bought within the next 3 months would have the 1.03 firmware uploaded. Projectors bought today were manufactured anywhere from 3 to 6 months prior. A firmware update for Epson would contain all previous firmware updates.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Interestingly enough I just received my 5050UB from Parker Gwen this Wednesday and it already had the 1.03 firmware loaded on it. (I'm assuming the 103 at the end of the file names under "version" is the way to confirm this.)

It's kind of bittersweet that I do not get to experience the improvements that were made first hand. Only a real home theater nerd would feel this way I think.


----------



## GIbryl

rollon1980 said:


> Ok guys. Found the correct pattern to calibrate colour luminance for HDR in Dynamic so reposting the settings with the correct color luminance values and some gamma tweaks that should make it work for more people without black crush.
> 
> If you use this mode already, you need to update: RGBCMY values and maybe gamma values (but you can use whichever version works best for gamma for you)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 50
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 24:-25:0
> 6 11:-15:0
> 5 6:-10:0
> 4 4:-6:0
> 3 2:-4:0
> 2 0:-1:1
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 2nd from left: -5
> all other gamma values default
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> C: 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)



These settings are stunning. Using them in room with light gray walls and the black levels are still amazing. Possible tiny tint towards green on my machine but so much better than before. No sure the cinema filter modes will get a look in again. Not for hdr anyhow. Thanks for the work 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

Yveke said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok guys. Found the correct pattern to calibrate colour luminance for HDR in Dynamic so reposting the settings with the correct color luminance values and some gamma tweaks that should make it work for more people without black crush.
> 
> If you use this mode already, you need to update: RGBCMY values and maybe gamma values (but you can use whichever version works best for gamma for you)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 50
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 24:-25:0
> 6 11:-15:0
> 5 6:-10:0
> 4 4:-6:0
> 3 2:-4:0
> 2 0👎1
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 2nd from left: -5
> all other gamma values default
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> 😄 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, do the rest of the settings (brightness, contrast, etc...) stay default as per Dynamic? Since this is Dynamic i.e. wihout the filter used with Digital Cinema, what is the difference in terms of accuracy, other HDR impact?
> 
> 
> Tnx,
> 
> 
> Yveke.
Click to expand...

Yes, everything else is default. 

Accuracy is much much better than using dynamic out of the box. Huge improvement. 

I do have more accurate (but less bright) settings and I’ll share them soon. For now, enjoy. 🙂


----------



## rollon1980

GIbryl said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok guys. Found the correct pattern to calibrate colour luminance for HDR in Dynamic so reposting the settings with the correct color luminance values and some gamma tweaks that should make it work for more people without black crush.
> 
> If you use this mode already, you need to update: RGBCMY values and maybe gamma values (but you can use whichever version works best for gamma for you)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 50
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 24:-25:0
> 6 11:-15:0
> 5 6:-10:0
> 4 4:-6:0
> 3 2:-4:0
> 2 0👎1
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 2nd from left: -5
> all other gamma values default
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> 😄 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These settings are stunning. Using them in room with light gray walls and the black levels are still amazing. Possible tiny tint towards green on my machine but so much better than before. No sure the cinema filter modes will get a look in again. Not for hdr anyhow. Thanks for the work
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thx for the feedback. 

I’ll post settings that stay almost as bright but removes 99% of that green tint (by sacrificing a bit of brightness) and improves shadow detail (due to a proper gamma calibration). 

Stay tuned. 😉 

Ps. If people want it, I can do a no-setting-too-complicated accurate-to-an-inch-of-its-life calibration for dynamic but I don’t know if that will be fun. It may sacrifice too much brightness. It will be brighter than Natural though (due to internal greyscale tables not pre-cutting light).


----------



## GIbryl

rollon1980 said:


> Thx for the feedback.
> 
> I’ll post settings that stay almost as bright but removes 99% of that green tint (by sacrificing a bit of brightness) and improves shadow detail (due to a proper gamma calibration).
> 
> Stay tuned. 😉
> 
> Ps. If people want it, I can do a no-setting-too-complicated accurate-to-an-inch-of-its-life calibration for dynamic but I don’t know if that will be fun. It may sacrifice too much brightness. It will be brighter than Natural though (due to internal greyscale tables not pre-cutting light).



Reducing the gain to 48 actually improved the tint already - so looking forward to your next work. There is plenty of brightness in these one. I’ve the hdr slider back at 8 for most things so plenty of room to boost if needed. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

GIbryl said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thx for the feedback.
> 
> Iâ€™️ll post settings that stay almost as bright but removes 99% of that green tint (by sacrificing a bit of brightness) and improves shadow detail (due to a proper gamma calibration).
> 
> Stay tuned. ðŸ˜‰
> 
> Ps. If people want it, I can do a no-setting-too-complicated accurate-to-an-inch-of-its-life calibration for dynamic but I donâ€™️t know if that will be fun. It may sacrifice too much brightness. It will be brighter than Natural though (due to internal greyscale tables not pre-cutting light).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reducing the gain to 48 actually improved the tint already - so looking forward to your next work. There is plenty of brightness in these one. Iâ€™️ve the hdr slider back at 8 for most things so plenty of room to boost if needed.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Each unit will behave differently as well of course plus lamp life etc. 

The best middle of the road setting is to reduce green to 40 and calibrate the greyscale that way. But don’t do that with the above settings. It will be wildly inaccurate. I’ll post them when I get time this weekend.

I’m running a 150” equivalent (130” CinemaScope).


----------



## GIbryl

rollon1980 said:


> Each unit will behave differently as well of course plus lamp life etc.
> 
> The best middle of the road setting is to reduce green to 40 and calibrate the greyscale that way. But don’t do that with the above settings. It will be wildly inaccurate. I’ll post them when I get time this weekend.
> 
> I’m running a 150” equivalent (130” CinemaScope).



Great - take your time. No rush. I won’t go playing around too much as I’m out of my depth. 
Your settings are the first ones that I’ve input from other users that look good for my setup. Don’t suppose you’ve got an Digital Cinema setting posted anywhere? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

GIbryl said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Each unit will behave differently as well of course plus lamp life etc.
> 
> The best middle of the road setting is to reduce green to 40 and calibrate the greyscale that way. But donâ€™️t do that with the above settings. It will be wildly inaccurate. Iâ€™️ll post them when I get time this weekend.
> 
> Iâ€™️m running a 150â€ equivalent (130â€ CinemaScope).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great - take your time. No rush. I wonâ€™️t go playing around too much as Iâ€™️m out of my depth.
> Your settings are the first ones that Iâ€™️ve input from other users that look good for my setup. Donâ€™️t suppose youâ€™️ve got an Digital Cinema setting posted anywhere?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Nope. Digital cinema on my setup is way too dim so don’t use it. But if I’m bored one day I may calibrate it and send you guys the settings. 😉


----------



## rollon1980

By popular request! If you want, you can use the gamma curve from the previous setting if that works better for you. But I recommend you give this curve a go first. It reduces blooming and provides better shadow detail. This gamma will look less like a flat panel I’m afraid but it’s what Epson’s tone mapping is expecting. 

Dynamic HDR v2 
(more accurate greyscale and gamma)

picture mode: dynamic
Color temp: 7
Skin tone: 4
Custom color temp:
Offset R: 49
Offset G: 49
Offset B: 49
(Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
Gain R: 50
Gain G: 40 (!!!!!!!!!!)
Gain B: 50

Grayscale:
8 0:0:0
7 22:-11:0
6 7:0:0
5 -1:0:-2
4 -5:0:-5
3 -5:0:-3
2 -3:0:-2
1 0:0:0

Gamma: custom
Custom points:
1: 0
2: -3 (change from -3 to -4 or -5 according to preference for near black gamma)
3: -3
4: -4
5: -5
6: -6
7: -8
8: -16
9: 0


RGBCMY:
R: 60:37:42
G: 55:35:47
B:60:34:53
😄 0:45:35
M: 60:49:36
Y: 58:50:48

High Lamp / medium lamp works too

HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here. 

Dynamic iris: NORMAL if using offsets at 48
High speed is ok if using offsets at 49. 
(Best to switch it off and let the lamp warm up for 5mins before movie starts then switch it back on for movie)


----------



## rollon1980

GIbryl said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Each unit will behave differently as well of course plus lamp life etc.
> 
> The best middle of the road setting is to reduce green to 40 and calibrate the greyscale that way. But donâ€™️t do that with the above settings. It will be wildly inaccurate. Iâ€™️ll post them when I get time this weekend.
> 
> Iâ€™️m running a 150â€ equivalent (130â€ CinemaScope).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great - take your time. No rush. I wonâ€™️t go playing around too much as Iâ€™️m out of my depth.
> Your settings are the first ones that Iâ€™️ve input from other users that look good for my setup. Donâ€™️t suppose youâ€™️ve got an Digital Cinema setting posted anywhere?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Just posted new settings. Just quoting you again so you get alert. Try the new ones see how they look. Cheers!


----------



## misterg51

rollon1980 said:


> By popular request! If you want, you can use the gamma curve from the previous setting if that works better for you. But I recommend you give this curve a go first. It reduces blooming and provides better shadow detail. This gamma will look less like a flat panel I’m afraid but it’s what Epson’s tone mapping is expecting.
> 
> Dynamic HDR v2
> (more accurate greyscale and gamma)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 40 (!!!!!!!!!!)
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 22:-11:0
> 6 7:0:0
> 5 -1:0:-2
> 4 -5:0:-5
> 3 -5:0:-3
> 2 -3:0:-2
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 1: 0
> 2: -3 (change from -3 to -4 or -5 according to preference for near black gamma)
> 3: -3
> 4: -4
> 5: -5
> 6: -6
> 7: -8
> 8: -16
> 9: 0
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> 😄 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL if using offsets at 48
> High speed is ok if using offsets at 49.
> (Best to switch it off and let the lamp warm up for 5mins before movie starts then switch it back on for movie)





These work better in my setup. Thank you! Now to compare each I have against each other......


----------



## ScudDawg

rollon1980 said:


> By popular request! If you want, you can use the gamma curve from the previous setting if that works better for you. But I recommend you give this curve a go first. It reduces blooming and provides better shadow detail. This gamma will look less like a flat panel I’m afraid but it’s what Epson’s tone mapping is expecting.
> 
> Dynamic HDR v2
> (more accurate greyscale and gamma)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 40 (!!!!!!!!!!)
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 22:-11:0
> 6 7:0:0
> 5 -1:0:-2
> 4 -5:0:-5
> 3 -5:0:-3
> 2 -3:0:-2
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 1: 0
> 2: -3 (change from -3 to -4 or -5 according to preference for near black gamma)
> 3: -3
> 4: -4
> 5: -5
> 6: -6
> 7: -8
> 8: -16
> 9: 0
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> 😄 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL if using offsets at 48
> High speed is ok if using offsets at 49.
> (Best to switch it off and let the lamp warm up for 5mins before movie starts then switch it back on for movie)



Great work, really appreciate everything you have done.


----------



## termite

rollon1980 said:


> By popular request! If you want, you can use the gamma curve from the previous setting if that works better for you. But I recommend you give this curve a go first. It reduces blooming and provides better shadow detail. This gamma will look less like a flat panel I’m afraid but it’s what Epson’s tone mapping is expecting.
> 
> Dynamic HDR v2
> (more accurate greyscale and gamma)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 40 (!!!!!!!!!!)
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 22:-11:0
> 6 7:0:0
> 5 -1:0:-2
> 4 -5:0:-5
> 3 -5:0:-3
> 2 -3:0:-2
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 1: 0
> 2: -3 (change from -3 to -4 or -5 according to preference for near black gamma)
> 3: -3
> 4: -4
> 5: -5
> 6: -6
> 7: -8
> 8: -16
> 9: 0
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> 😄 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL if using offsets at 48
> High speed is ok if using offsets at 49.
> (Best to switch it off and let the lamp warm up for 5mins before movie starts then switch it back on for movie)


I have largely ignored using Dynamic until yesterday when I tried your first posted settings and was pleasantly surprised by how it looks on my 5050.
I also notice a very slight green tint but otherwise it looks excellent. Thanks for taking the time to experiment and this makes it fun to compare..
So what difference do you expect us to see with this new settings? I'll try those out later tonight ..


----------



## Sekosche

termite said:


> I have largely ignored using Dynamic until yesterday when I tried your first posted settings and was pleasantly surprised by how it looks on my 5050.
> I also notice a very slight green tint but otherwise it looks excellent. Thanks for taking the time to experiment and this makes it fun to compare..
> So what difference do you expect us to see with this new settings? I'll try those out later tonight ..



I may have to try using dynamic more as well for some HDR films, because after reading this we watched Trolls 2 with the default dynamic with medium lamp earlier today and I was pleasantly surprised it didn’t look half bad as I had expected. I was put off from using dynamic mode unless absolutely necessary for the added lumens from my last two PJ’s that were light cannons but did poorly with color accuracy, especially when using Dynamic mode.


----------



## rollon1980

Thx guys!

Try the new settings and see if they work better for you. They provide better accuracy all around: colour, shadow detail, bright detail. 

BTW, let the lamp warm up for 5mins without the dynamic iris when switching to dynamic. It will make lamp dimming more consistent during the movie (as the Epson uses a mix of dynamic iris and lamp dimming to improve contrast and it’s more aggressive in dynamic mode). If watching sports or playing games, you might want to just disable the dynamic iris altogether.


----------



## cky2354

rollon1980 said:


> Thx guys!
> 
> Try the new settings and see if they work better for you. They provide better accuracy all around: colour, shadow detail, bright detail.
> 
> BTW, let the lamp warm up for 5mins without the dynamic iris when switching to dynamic. It will make lamp dimming more consistent during the movie (as the Epson uses a mix of dynamic iris and lamp dimming to improve contrast and it’s more aggressive in dynamic mode). If watching sports or playing games, you might want to just disable the dynamic iris altogether.


Do you use this for all contents or just 4k with HDR only? Thanks for sharing your settings. Much appreciated.


----------



## rollon1980

cky2354 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thx guys!
> 
> Try the new settings and see if they work better for you. They provide better accuracy all around: colour, shadow detail, bright detail.
> 
> BTW, let the lamp warm up for 5mins without the dynamic iris when switching to dynamic. It will make lamp dimming more consistent during the movie (as the Epson uses a mix of dynamic iris and lamp dimming to improve contrast and itâ€™️s more aggressive in dynamic mode). If watching sports or playing games, you might want to just disable the dynamic iris altogether.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use this for all contents or just 4k with HDR only? Thanks for sharing your settings. Much appreciated.
Click to expand...

HDR only. Don’t use this for SDR!!


----------



## jorisdriesen

rollon1980 said:


> HDR only. Don’t use this for SDR!!


Was wondering the same, I'm using madVR, outputting SDR to the projector. Does it make sense to try these above settings ?


----------



## rollon1980

jorisdriesen said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> HDR only. Donâ€™️t use this for SDR!!
> 
> 
> 
> Was wondering the same, I'm using madVR, outputting SDR to the projector. Does it make sense to try these above settings ?
Click to expand...

You can try but the colour brightness values would likely be incorrect so try resetting them to default. Otherwise the gamut might look incorrect. The greyscale and gamma would be ok as the HDR gamma is based on the 2.4 SDR gamma (which is what Epson uses as a base for tone mapping). 

It’s probably best to stick to Natural for SDR tho. But it won’t hurt trying. 😉


----------



## rollon1980

jorisdriesen said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> HDR only. Donâ€™️t use this for SDR!!
> 
> 
> 
> Was wondering the same, I'm using madVR, outputting SDR to the projector. Does it make sense to try these above settings ?
Click to expand...

How’s MadVr tone mapping with this projector, btw?

I think it’s worth trying my settings without MadVr (for streaming and games you can’t use MadVr for) and report back. 🙂 maybe you could even compare for us.


----------



## mon2479

rollon1980 said:


> jorisdriesen said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> HDR only. Donâ€™️t use this for SDR!!
> 
> 
> 
> Was wondering the same, I'm using madVR, outputting SDR to the projector. Does it make sense to try these above settings ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can try but the colour brightness values would likely be incorrect so try resetting them to default. Otherwise the gamut might look incorrect. The greyscale and gamma would be ok as the HDR gamma is based on the 2.4 SDR gamma (which is what Epson uses as a base for tone mapping).
> 
> It’s probably best to stick to Natural for SDR tho. But it won’t hurt trying. 😉
Click to expand...

Have you done any calibration settings for SDR? Or is the natural setting close enough why bother?


----------



## IslaTurbine

@Porknz

Did you ever get your video blanking issue resolved? I’ve been having a similar issue with my 6050 connected to a Yamaha (Costco) 7850 AVR. My video will blank out after about 40 minutes of watch time and the audio will continue to play. It occurs when I stream Netflix via both my TiVo Mini Vox or Xbox One X. It also does it to Disney+ streaming via the One X as well as during blu ray disc playback on the One X. 

It doesn’t happen when watching recordings or live TV via the TiVo Mini Vox nor does it happen when playing video games on the One X. It’s driving me bonkers.


----------



## SpedInFargo

Shawn Kelly said:


> That's the thought - same type of program. Same minimum throw ratio: 1.6:1. In this case there is an advantage in that the Epson projectors don't have such a significantly recessed lens.


Also replying to express interest in the program...


----------



## jarjar2k3

Hello all,
I have been enjoying this forum for several years and using other's settings for my projectors over the years.
From a Samsung SPA600B, to an EPSON HC4010 and now an EPSON 6050UB.
A few month ago, I have decided to buy an Xrite i1 display pro and go into the world of calibration.
So now is my time to share.
Materials:
- EPSON 6050UB
- Lamp usage : 150h
- Screen DRAPER REACT 2.1 100 inch
- Batcave with matte black wall and ceiling

3D setting has been done with EPSON 3D glasses
Hope it will be useful,

jarjar from Paris


----------



## GIbryl

rollon1980 said:


> By popular request! If you want, you can use the gamma curve from the previous setting if that works better for you. But I recommend you give this curve a go first. It reduces blooming and provides better shadow detail. This gamma will look less like a flat panel I’m afraid but it’s what Epson’s tone mapping is expecting.
> 
> Dynamic HDR v2
> (more accurate greyscale and gamma)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 40 (!!!!!!!!!!)
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 22:-11:0
> 6 7:0:0
> 5 -1:0:-2
> 4 -5:0:-5
> 3 -5:0:-3
> 2 -3:0:-2
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 1: 0
> 2: -3 (change from -3 to -4 or -5 according to preference for near black gamma)
> 3: -3
> 4: -4
> 5: -5
> 6: -6
> 7: -8
> 8: -16
> 9: 0
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> 😄 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL if using offsets at 48
> High speed is ok if using offsets at 49.
> (Best to switch it off and let the lamp warm up for 5mins before movie starts then switch it back on for movie)



Testing on Old Guard. Definite shadow detail improvements. Better all round than before with the new Gamma setting. Brilliant again thanks. Still getting a slight green tint, even with -40gain on 48offset tho. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

jarjar2k3 said:


> Hello all,
> I have been enjoying this forum for several years and using other's settings for my projectors over the years.
> From a Samsung SPA600B, to an EPSON HC4010 and now an EPSON 6050UB.
> A few month ago, I have decided to buy an Xrite i1 display pro and go into the world of calibration.
> So now is my time to share.
> Materials:
> - EPSON 6050UB
> - Lamp usage : 150h
> - Screen DRAPER REACT 2.1 100 inch
> - Batcave with matte black wall and ceiling
> 
> 3D setting has been done with EPSON 3D glasses
> Hope it will be useful,
> 
> jarjar from Paris


Well done mate!!! 🙂 it’s the best thing one can do in our hobby is learn calibration! I have been doing calibration for close to 14 years and still learning!


----------



## rollon1980

GIbryl said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> By popular request! If you want, you can use the gamma curve from the previous setting if that works better for you. But I recommend you give this curve a go first. It reduces blooming and provides better shadow detail. This gamma will look less like a flat panel Iâ€™️m afraid but itâ€™️s what Epsonâ€™️s tone mapping is expecting.
> 
> Dynamic HDR v2
> (more accurate greyscale and gamma)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 40 (!!!!!!!!!!)
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 22:-11:0
> 6 7:0:0
> 5 -1:0:-2
> 4 -5:0:-5
> 3 -5:0:-3
> 2 -3:0:-2
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 1: 0
> 2: -3 (change from -3 to -4 or -5 according to preference for near black gamma)
> 3: -3
> 4: -4
> 5: -5
> 6: -6
> 7: -8
> 8: -16
> 9: 0
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> ðŸ˜„ 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL if using offsets at 48
> High speed is ok if using offsets at 49.
> (Best to switch it off and let the lamp warm up for 5mins before movie starts then switch it back on for movie)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing on Old Guard. Definite shadow detail improvements. Better all round than before with the new Gamma setting. Brilliant again thanks. Still getting a slight green tint, even with -40gain on 48offset tho.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Did you enter all the grayscale details from 8 to 1? You need to renter all the numbers. 

If you did then it sounds like your lamp pushes green more than mine then! All you could do would be to calibrate your unit or try lowering green gain more, see what that looks like.


----------



## rollon1980

mon2479 said:


> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jorisdriesen said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rollon1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> HDR only. Donâ€™️t use this for SDR!!
> 
> 
> 
> Was wondering the same, I'm using madVR, outputting SDR to the projector. Does it make sense to try these above settings ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can try but the colour brightness values would likely be incorrect so try resetting them to default. Otherwise the gamut might look incorrect. The greyscale and gamma would be ok as the HDR gamma is based on the 2.4 SDR gamma (which is what Epson uses as a base for tone mapping).
> 
> It’s probably best to stick to Natural for SDR tho. But it won’t hurt trying. 😉
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you done any calibration settings for SDR? Or is the natural setting close enough why bother?
Click to expand...

Lots of others have posted SDR settings and those are not tricky to do. I hadn’t seen HDR settings that were what I am doing with the unit.


----------



## Luminated67

@rollon1980

Quick question about calibrated settings and the differences between projectors and screen/room conditions, I got mine professionally calibrated but out of curiosity I have inputted calibrated settings from different sources to compare with my own. On each occasion I find the image quite different compared to me reference calibrated setting so how accurate are calibrated settings done on your machine when used by someone else?


----------



## DaGamePimp

Nobody should expect to see accurate Color results using a full C.M.S. calibration from another unit (some may get very lucky but always keep expectations in check). 

C.M.S. is an area where even slight adjustments can make things much worse, especially when using settings from another unit (and even more so on projectors).

Regarding Dynamic, it cannot be made extremely accurate without major sacrifices in other areas which in turn make it less desirable to use (it can certainly be much improved from OotB however).

After gathering some newer gear (which took longer than expected, but understandable considering the current conditions) I was about to jump back in and post up some settings but it seems there is plenty posted recently to keep everyone busy. Thanks to those sharing their settings. 

I'm sure I'll pop back in with some findings as I start to dig into the various 5050 mode calibrations again. 

- Jason


----------



## rollon1980

Luminated67 said:


> @rollon1980
> 
> Quick question about calibrated settings and the differences between projectors and screen/room conditions, I got mine professionally calibrated but out of curiosity I have inputted calibrated settings from different sources to compare with my own. On each occasion I find the image quite different compared to me reference calibrated setting so how accurate are calibrated settings done on your machine when used by someone else?


A calibration done specifically for your unit will ALWAYS be the best!! Ideally it’s done in your room but you can mimic room conditions. Also, a screen might impart some colour shift. 

The variables are:
- globe age
- globe output (variations in manufacture)
- voltage lamp is driven (power supply / ballast variances)
- low/medium/high lamp
- panel age 
- panel manufacturing variance
- screen
- room (it won’t affect the colour unless you have bad reflections, just the perception of gamma but it’s not as big of a deal - we can use predictive models here which is what gamma is)

So it’s a bit of a luck of draw - HOWEVER when I first posted my settings I posted the method I used. Others can follow that. Also, settings will work for some. Others might get the idea to use their meters and tweak it. 🙂 

Anyway, hopefully will be useful for some. But if you can get a calibrator in, do it. It will always get the best result.


----------



## rollon1980

For the sake of new people starting out not making the same mistakes as we did when we started out, I want to mention one of the main mistakes I have sees even experienced calibrators make. It is with the colour luminance / brightness control. I had a JVC here a few months ago calibrated by a professional calibrator that had serious desaturation in lower IRE levels due to this control pushed way past the capabilities of the display.

Just some tips if I may. Colour luminance / brightness should:
1. be calibrated at around 75% saturation levels for SDR
2. be calibrated around *100nits for HDR on a projector using P3 targets* as the maximum (not as critical on a flat panel display although unless you have an LCD that can do a minimum of 1500 nits perfectly, you should not be calibrating colour luminance values with a 1000nit pattern that are on some of the disks!!! (or with BT2020 targets if the display cannot reach them). Also remember OLEDs can reach 1000nits but there is inherent colour desaturation that occurs beyond 700nits, so again those patterns are useless.

The majority of content sits in the 100nit range within P3 so you can make 1000nits "look correct" on a chart and cause all sorts of issues at 100nits. This is why I was looking for my 100nit P3 patterns before I posted those settings. (if we could have someone make 75% P3 100nit patterns, it would be even better. If you have a pattern generator, maybe you can do that when you calibrate.)

3. If the luminance is not changing as you are increasing or decreasing the control, the STOP! Do not push it another 20 clicks to get a tiny amount of improvement on the chart. This is true of all controls on a display. If the display is not responding to large changes in a particular control, it is likely you will cause colour decoding issues somewhere else (at different IRE, different saturation points, etc)

I have seen people max out that control and it can cause desaturation, over-saturation or clipping dependent on the display. If you need to get anywhere close to max on the colour brightness control, there is something wrong. Unit to unit variance will not affect it THAT much. That control is not supposed to be pushed near its max except some edge cases.

Now having said that: experiment, experiment and experiment. But always have content handy that you know very well (and seen on a verified well calibrated display) to check if there are any issues.

If anyone needs help and they are just starting out with calibrating, very happy to help out. Don't hesitate to PM. As I said, it's the best thing you can do in our hobby and would like to see more people try. It really isn't that hard.  Now go prosper (and calibrate).


----------



## jorisdriesen

mon2479 said:


> Have you done any calibration settings for SDR? Or is the natural setting close enough why bother?


* Haven't done any calibration at all.
* madVR looks extremely awesome with this projector. I have a lot of settings maxed out, but I started with a Pana UB420 and madVR is in a different league. I have a full bat cave so that helps ofc.

Was just wondering if there are some few more percentages of quality to be gained by playing with the projector's settings. Haven't read up on calibration and everything, and that's also not my next priority for my HT (need to build a complete backwall and a second Devastator first).


----------



## scubasteve2365

I know there is no price talk in the thread, and I'm not attempting to talk any exact dollars. Currently in the process of moving and leaving current theater behind for new owner. 

Are there any upcoming expected sales or promos from Epson on the 5050UB? This would be my 5th UB projector and I feel like everytime I've purchased one there has been a free lamp promo. I won't need one for probably 4-6 weeks, just thought I can anticipate when placing an order if something expected is coming up.


----------



## srees304

scubasteve2365 said:


> I know there is no price talk in the thread, and I'm not attempting to talk any exact dollars. Currently in the process of moving and leaving current theater behind for new owner.
> 
> Are there any upcoming expected sales or promos from Epson on the 5050UB? This would be my 5th UB projector and I feel like everytime I've purchased one there has been a free lamp promo. I won't need one for probably 4-6 weeks, just thought I can anticipate when placing an order if something expected is coming up.


I see the price drop a couple hundred for most major holidays, but I haven't seen a free lamp, other than by moving to the 6050 (which means it isn't really free anymore, lol).
I just picked mine up on discount around the 4th. Probably labor day would be the next likely shot at a price break IMHO.


----------



## srees304

*HDR from MacBook Pro?*

Anyone on here gotten HDR working from a MacBook Pro, or any laptop for that matter?

Recent MBPs (mine qualifies) supposedly support HDR, but only if the display identifies itself to the laptop as being HDR capable. I have no trouble getting HDR from my XBox, but the laptop won't see it as an option.

I messaged support and they said they are aware of issues with PC/laptop HDR to the projector, but aren't sure if anything will be done about it. I figure if enough people care and make noise to them, maybe...

I also asked for a switch to accept/fake audio over HDMI, so I can use my HDMI switch to intercept and funnel laptop audio to my old-school receiver, like I did with the HC3200.


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> A calibration done specifically for your unit will ALWAYS be the best!! Ideally it’s done in your room but you can mimic room conditions. Also, a screen might impart some colour shift.
> 
> The variables are:
> - globe age
> - globe output (variations in manufacture)
> - voltage lamp is driven (power supply / ballast variances)
> - low/medium/high lamp
> - panel age
> - panel manufacturing variance
> - screen
> - room (it won’t affect the colour unless you have bad reflections, just the perception of gamma but it’s not as big of a deal - we can use predictive models here which is what gamma is)
> 
> So it’s a bit of a luck of draw - HOWEVER when I first posted my settings I posted the method I used. Others can follow that. Also, settings will work for some. Others might get the idea to use their meters and tweak it. 🙂
> 
> Anyway, hopefully will be useful for some. But if you can get a calibrator in, do it. It will always get the best result.



Assuming no actual defects the number of sample to sample variables is truly staggering (even if you leave the environment out of the equation), there are even more variables than those listed above.

The circuits, transistors, capacitors, etc. have 'within spec.' tolerances and are often sourced from different vendors until EoL.

A 'within specification' lens has a wider margin of tolerance than one would think and this has a fairly significant impact on the end-result (more so than just about any other single aspect of a projected image). As an example, even though the 4010, 5050 and 6050 all share the same basic lens assembly, as you go up the stack the image quality improves regarding over-all optical quality (focal ability, clarity, and even gains in contrast that can, in part, be due to binned optics - in the case of the 6050ub). Obviously this does not imply the image difference from a 4010 to a 6050 is due to lens tolerances, the 4010 does not utilize the UB components.

There are a massive number of variables keeping us all from being 'calibrated' thanks to a top level ISF/THX calibrator's shared settings. 

Even if we were all there out of the gate... drift would see to it that it doesn't last long. 

- Jason


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Anybody knows why are the rest 6 memory slots gray out?


----------



## vagos1103gr1

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Anybody knows why are the rest 6 memory slots gray out?


Never mind it wasn’t saved in the new slot


----------



## HTSteve

Quick question on my 5050 demo experience

I am looking at 5050 and Sony 295. I found a Best Buy Magnolia that had both in the same room, so that was unexpected.

Using a Panasonic 820, they put in Transformers (1080p, not 4K). I was not impressed with the picture on a 100" Stewart Screen with either projector, though the Sony was slightly better, but not by much.

Standing 12' away, the image looked very granular. Something did not seem right. Would anyone have any suggestions on why this would be the case?

I also demoed using 4K disc Bumblebee and both PJs looked very good.

Since most of my disc material is 1080p, I am now hesitant to pull the trigger on purchasing anything. I was quite disappointed to be honest.

My screen is planned to be 120", seating distance is ~12-13'.

Insight and suggestions are appreciated.


----------



## pbc

Curious, given a year has gone by and some new projectors have it the market in and around the price range of the 5050, anyone longing for a different projector? The 5050 seems to be a winner in terms of black level, color and options (lens zoom, etc), as well as having pretty darn good lag for gaming. Only "knocks" seem to be that 1) it's not true 4k which you can't really get in this price point anyhow, 2) it's relatively loud(?) and 3) given how it converts to 4k vs other pixel shifting projectors some claim it's slightly less detailed/sharp though from 14 - 16 feet away I'm not sure that matters.

I have been considering moving to a projector and 115" screen vs going with say an 85" LCD, in what won't be a dedicated HT but very good lighting control. Want something that can be easily used for movies (streaming and dedicated player, though more streaming by far), regular cable (sports, news, just plain old TV watching) and then occasionally if my son wants to game on it.

I was also looking at stepping up a bit to say a JVC NX3, but not sure it's worth it given it's not even native 4k at that price point, though the dynamic tone mapping might make for better HDR I think the 5050 actually takes it on black levels/shadow detail. The BenQ 5550 seems to come close, but other than some folks claiming it is slightly sharper, the 5050 seems to beat it in every other category.

Not sure if anything new has come out this year that folks think "hmmmm....might be better than the 5050"?

edit: likely looking at an AT screen with 1.15 gain (elunevision)


----------



## kincade

I've been using my Epson 6050 for about 3 months now and have had zero complaints until 2 nights ago. During streaming (Apple TV 4k with Amazon Prime watching The Expanse), I noticed that there was a persistent flickering noticeable in the bright scenes especially. I've changed the color mode and dynamic Iris to no effect - but changing the brightness from Eco Mode to Medium or High immediately resolve the issue (at the expense of a higher fan noise). 



Reading in this thread it seems like this has happened to a few others, and the 'fix' is to run it in high for a few hours to clean the arc points up on the lamp? I'm curious if this is still true? Epson seems to think it is content related, but it now has been seen across multiple inputs so I don't think it is content. 



Secondly, I live at 4500ft above sea level - and while Epson says I don't need high altitude enabled until higher than this, I'm wondering if this could be related, and if it is recommended? What exactly does this setting do? Is it just a higher fan speed?


Thanks for any input you can give.


----------



## HTX^2steve

HTSteve said:


> Quick question on my 5050 demo experience
> 
> I am looking at 5050 and Sony 295. I found a Best Buy Magnolia that had both in the same room, so that was unexpected.
> 
> Using a Panasonic 820, they put in Transformers (1080p, not 4K). I was not impressed with the picture on a 100" Stewart Screen with either projector, though the Sony was slightly better, but not by much.
> 
> Standing 12' away, the image looked very granular. Something did not seem right. Would anyone have any suggestions on why this would be the case?
> 
> I also demoed using 4K disc Bumblebee and both PJs looked very good.
> 
> Since most of my disc material is 1080p, I am now hesitant to pull the trigger on purchasing anything. I was quite disappointed to be honest.
> 
> My screen is planned to be 120", seating distance is ~12-13'.
> 
> Insight and suggestions are appreciated.


When researching the 5050 for myself I also went to a BBM store and couldn't tell differences. There could be so many things that were/weren't set properly on the PJ that could have been messing with what you were seeing. So many times it is some new millennial that could care less about projectors and just wants to be on his/her phone helping you and knows nothing about the four thousand dollar projector you are looking at.

The 5050 projector kicks ass for it's picture to cost to features to price! 

Buy it...and you hope it satisfies your appetite....End of story.


----------



## biglen

HTX^2steve said:


> When researching the 5050 for myself I also went to a BBM store and couldn't tell differences. There could be so many things that were/weren't set properly on the PJ that could have been messing with what you were seeing. So many times it is some new millennial that could care less about projectors and just wants to be on his/her phone helping you and knows nothing about the four thousand dollar projector you are looking at.
> 
> 
> 
> The 5050 projector kicks ass for it's picture to cost to features to price!
> 
> 
> 
> Buy it...and you hope it satisfies your appetite....End of story.


I built a HTPC to run MadVR. I didn't think it was possible, but the 5050 looks even better. My 1080p rips definitely look better with MadVR upscaling. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Gjlaplante

jarjar2k3 said:


> Hello all,
> I have been enjoying this forum for several years and using other's settings for my projectors over the years.
> From a Samsung SPA600B, to an EPSON HC4010 and now an EPSON 6050UB.
> A few month ago, I have decided to buy an Xrite i1 display pro and go into the world of calibration.
> So now is my time to share.
> Materials:
> - EPSON 6050UB
> - Lamp usage : 150h
> - Screen DRAPER REACT 2.1 100 inch
> - Batcave with matte black wall and ceiling
> 
> 3D setting has been done with EPSON 3D glasses
> Hope it will be useful,
> 
> jarjar from Paris


The only thing I don't agree with but understand is setting Contrast to 70 on HDR Night. I'm assuming this was done to increase luminance in this mode due to the filter. Setting the Brightness and Contrast to anything other than default in HDR goes against what we are taught, but once again this mode cuts luminance in half so I get it.


----------



## Gjlaplante

Did we ever get an answer on the updates for firmware version 1.03? I personally believe the HDR slider control was altered some. Thoughts?


----------



## jorisdriesen

biglen said:


> I built a HTPC to run MadVR. I didn't think it was possible, but the 5050 looks even better. My 1080p rips definitely look better with MadVR upscaling.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Same. This immediately answered the question for me whether to consider the NX5 or not. Next up would be the NX7 which is then still even very close to the 6050UB, and probably not worth the extra cost compared to the 6050UB. So I don't feel any need to upgrade at this moment. Picture is gorgeous and we have the best dynamic tone mapping in the industry. Not gonna spend an extra $4000 to get some better blacks.


----------



## Luminated67

PHP:







biglen said:


> I built a HTPC to run MadVR. I didn't think it was possible, but the 5050 looks even better. My 1080p rips definitely look better with MadVR upscaling.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Couldn't post a couple of images, one with and one without MadVR to see how it improves over just the Epson handling the HDR itself.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> PHP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Couldn't post a couple of images, one with and one without MadVR to see how it improves over just the Epson handling the HDR itself.


The top is without MadVR, and the bottom is with MadVR.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Yves Claeys

biglen said:


> The top is without MadVR, and the bottom is with MadVR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


madvr settings pls?


----------



## ShadowBoy

biglen said:


> The top is without MadVR, and the bottom is with MadVR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My comment here is a bit unfair because I am looking at a posted photo and not seeing it in person, but comparing the two photos I will make these observations. Although the colour looks more vibrant on the bottom MadVr photo, the shadow details on the top photo appear massively better. I can see all the folds in his pants leg and his shirt and the branches in the bush below the 38 in the chapter read-out. In the MadVr photo they are indistinct black blobs. His skin tone in the MadVr also looks overly reddish and again less detail in his face compared to the upper photo. Both photos as posted here are lower resolution so I can't enlarge them to see better detail without pixelation. There definitely is better detail in the sand dune directly behind him in the bottom photo. I wonder if a colour calibration and or a change in brightness in the upper photo would bring the sky and plant colour closer to the MadVr photo. But, to reiterate, I know these photos may look quite different when seen in person on a big screen.


----------



## biglen

ShadowBoy said:


> My comment here is a bit unfair because I am looking at a posted photo and not seeing it in person, but comparing the two photos I will make these observations. Although the colour looks more vibrant on the bottom MadVr photo, the shadow details on the top photo appear massively better. I can see all the folds in his pants leg and his shirt and the branches in the bush below the 38 in the chapter read-out. In the MadVr photo they are indistinct black blobs. His skin tone in the MadVr also looks overly reddish and again less detail in his face compared to the upper photo. Both photos as posted here are lower resolution so I can't enlarge them to see better detail without pixelation. There definitely is better detail in the sand dune directly behind him in the bottom photo. I wonder if a colour calibration and or a change in brightness in the upper photo would bring the sky and plant colour closer to the MadVr photo. But, to reiterate, I know these photos may look quite different when seen in person on a big screen.


Both look better in person, and the MadVR is definitely better, trust me. I paid $400 for the GPU on Amazon, which has free returns. If I didn't think it made a $400 difference, I would have returned it. Also, I've messed with the MadVR settings since that pic, and I have it dialed in better. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Both look better in person, and the MadVR is definitely better, trust me. I paid $400 for the GPU on Amazon, which has free returns. If I didn't think it made a $400 difference, I would have returned it. Also, I've messed with the MadVR settings since that pic, and I have it dialed in better.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


It would take high resolution to properly make an opinion on shadow detail but with colour it's night and day different. When you zoom in yes it's pixelated but you can still clearly make out the different colour tones on the clothing and grass to tell there's a marked improvement using the software. 

Did you end up tweaking the projector's settings after installing MadVR or has all the tweaks been done in it's settings rather than a combination of both, the reason I ask is with mine being properly calibrated for both SDR and HDR I'm hoping that these settings will be good enough and all the tweaking is done in the MadVR settings.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> It would take high resolution to properly make an opinion on shadow detail but with colour it's night and day different. When you zoom in yes it's pixelated but you can still clearly make out the different colour tones on the clothing and grass to tell there's a marked improvement using the software.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you end up tweaking the projector's settings after installing MadVR or has all the tweaks been done in it's settings rather than a combination of both, the reason I ask is with mine being properly calibrated for both SDR and HDR I'm hoping that these settings will be good enough and all the tweaking is done in the MadVR settings.


I had my 5050 professionally calibrated, and I didn't touch those settings. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I had my 5050 professionally calibrated, and I didn't touch those settings.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That’s great to hear. Once I get the PC up and running and I’ll be bending your ear on your settings so I have some idea if the direction I need my settings to go to achieve an even better image than I currently have.

P.S.

Can’t credit the difference in the two images with regards to colour. Also out of curiosity can it be used for SDR or is that plain stupid?


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> That’s great to hear. Once I get the PC up and running and I’ll be bending your ear on your settings so I have some idea if the direction I need my settings to go to achieve an even better image than I currently have.


I'll be happy to help out. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I'll be happy to help out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


You need to start posting some of your new images on Projector Screenshot Eye Candy Thread


----------



## noob00224

pbc said:


> Curious, given a year has gone by and some new projectors have it the market in and around the price range of the 5050, anyone longing for a different projector? The 5050 seems to be a winner in terms of black level, color and options (lens zoom, etc), as well as having pretty darn good lag for gaming. Only "knocks" seem to be that 1) it's not true 4k which you can't really get in this price point anyhow, 2) it's relatively loud(?) and 3) given how it converts to 4k vs other pixel shifting projectors some claim it's slightly less detailed/sharp though from 14 - 16 feet away I'm not sure that matters.
> 
> I have been considering moving to a projector and 115" screen vs going with say an 85" LCD, in what won't be a dedicated HT but very good lighting control. Want something that can be easily used for movies (streaming and dedicated player, though more streaming by far), regular cable (sports, news, just plain old TV watching) and then occasionally if my son wants to game on it.
> 
> I was also looking at stepping up a bit to say a JVC NX3, but not sure it's worth it given it's not even native 4k at that price point, though the dynamic tone mapping might make for better HDR I think the 5050 actually takes it on black levels/shadow detail. The BenQ 5550 seems to come close, but other than some folks claiming it is slightly sharper, the 5050 seems to beat it in every other category.
> 
> Not sure if anything new has come out this year that folks think "hmmmm....might be better than the 5050"?
> 
> edit: likely looking at an AT screen with 1.15 gain (elunevision)


Don't decide on a screen until you've seen it on the wall for a while. 

General proportions are 10-12" for every foot in distance. So for 14-16' that would result in a large screen, with 115" being very small IMO.

Unless the screen is too large and/or the position is too close, pixel fill is not a problem:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...p/3100362-4k-pixel-shifting.html#post58821002

The 5050UB is not loud, depends on location, lamp setting, and personal preference.

I assume you meant the NX5 instead of NX3?
The NX5 has better blacks (than the 5050UB), dynamic HDR tone mapping, native 4K, and generally a better looking unit. Uncalibrated the 5050UB is brighter than the NX5.

Vs. the HT5550, 5050UB has much better contrast/black, level, almost twice as bright, usable WCG filter for screens over 100", motorized lenses with memory, two irises, longer throw ratio, lens shift, etc.
The HT5550 has better motion handling being DLP, but for most things 3LCD is still good. 

The HT5550 claims 8m addressable pixels vs. 4m on the Epson, but there are many factors that contribute to sharpness/detail perception. 



kincade said:


> I've been using my Epson 6050 for about 3 months now and have had zero complaints until 2 nights ago. During streaming (Apple TV 4k with Amazon Prime watching The Expanse), I noticed that there was a persistent flickering noticeable in the bright scenes especially. I've changed the color mode and dynamic Iris to no effect - but changing the brightness from Eco Mode to Medium or High immediately resolve the issue (at the expense of a higher fan noise).
> 
> 
> 
> Reading in this thread it seems like this has happened to a few others, and the 'fix' is to run it in high for a few hours to clean the arc points up on the lamp? I'm curious if this is still true? Epson seems to think it is content related, but it now has been seen across multiple inputs so I don't think it is content.
> 
> 
> 
> Secondly, I live at 4500ft above sea level - and while Epson says I don't need high altitude enabled until higher than this, I'm wondering if this could be related, and if it is recommended? What exactly does this setting do? Is it just a higher fan speed?
> 
> 
> Thanks for any input you can give.


Yes: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ng-projector-bulb-flicker-3.html#post57363110
If it's in warranty get it changed.
If it's not keep it in High every once in a while. It should be kept in High for the first 100h. I keep it in High for 100h for every 500h.

High altitude is the fans going faster since air at altitude is thinner and require more volume to cool the components. If the lamp does not receive enough cooling it will age quicker due to the increased thermic stress.



ShadowBoy said:


> My comment here is a bit unfair because I am looking at a posted photo and not seeing it in person, but comparing the two photos I will make these observations. Although the colour looks more vibrant on the bottom MadVr photo, the shadow details on the top photo appear massively better. I can see all the folds in his pants leg and his shirt and the branches in the bush below the 38 in the chapter read-out. In the MadVr photo they are indistinct black blobs. His skin tone in the MadVr also looks overly reddish and again less detail in his face compared to the upper photo. Both photos as posted here are lower resolution so I can't enlarge them to see better detail without pixelation. There definitely is better detail in the sand dune directly behind him in the bottom photo. I wonder if a colour calibration and or a change in brightness in the upper photo would bring the sky and plant colour closer to the MadVr photo. But, to reiterate, I know these photos may look quite different when seen in person on a big screen.


There's no question madvr is better than any projector tone mapping. Besides the issue coming from looking at a picture on the internet, it could be due to incorrect configuration. There are no shadow issues with madvr. It's HDR tone mapper is configurable. 




Luminated67 said:


> That’s great to hear. Once I get the PC up and running and I’ll be bending your ear on your settings so I have some idea if the direction I need my settings to go to achieve an even better image than I currently have.
> 
> P.S.
> 
> Can’t credit the difference in the two images with regards to colour. Also out of curiosity can it be used for SDR or is that plain stupid?



SDR is not tone mapped. SDR colors can't be adjusted from madvr, with the exception of a 3dlut.


----------



## pbc

noob00224 said:


> Don't decide on a screen until you've seen it on the wall for a while.
> 
> General proportions are 10-12" for every foot in distance. So for 14-16' that would result in a large screen, with 115" being very small IMO.
> 
> Unless the screen is too large and/or the position is too close, pixel fill is not a problem:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...p/3100362-4k-pixel-shifting.html#post58821002
> 
> The 5050UB is not loud, depends on location, lamp setting, and personal preference.
> 
> I assume you meant the NX5 instead of NX3?
> The NX5 has better blacks (than the 5050UB), dynamic HDR tone mapping, native 4K, and generally a better looking unit. Uncalibrated the 5050UB is brighter than the NX5.
> 
> Vs. the HT5550, 5050UB has much better contrast/black, level, almost twice as bright, usable WCG filter for screens over 100", motorized lenses with memory, two irises, longer throw ratio, lens shift, etc.
> The HT5550 has better motion handling being DLP, but for most things 3LCD is still good.
> 
> The HT5550 claims 8m addressable pixels vs. 4m on the Epson, but there are many factors that contribute to sharpness/detail perception.


Thx, sorry, meant the NZ3, not "NX3". The NZ3 is CAD$1,000 more, just not sure if it's worth it. The NX5 is CAD$4k more, which starts to get a bit crazy IMO, especially for a non fully dedicated HT room.

The 115" might be more of a "personal/WAF" limit since it won't be a dedicated HT room, more of a family room/great room sort of thing, but yes, I can wait on the screen.


----------



## pbc

noob00224 said:


> Don't decide on a screen until you've seen it on the wall for a while.
> 
> General proportions are 10-12" for every foot in distance. So for 14-16' that would result in a large screen, with 115" being very small IMO.


Also, I keep hearing don't decide until you've seen it on a wall, is that mainly because I might "want" something bigger sort of thing? Or because there could be an issue with a 115" screen and a projector that is mounted 15-16 feet from the wall? Having my basement finished, so would need to decide on projector placement before they finish the ceiling, won't be a drop ceiling.


----------



## noob00224

pbc said:


> Thx, sorry, meant the NZ3, not "NX3". The NZ3 is CAD$1,000 more, just not sure if it's worth it. The NX5 is CAD$4k more, which starts to get a bit crazy IMO, especially for a non fully dedicated HT room.
> 
> The 115" might be more of a "personal/WAF" limit since it won't be a dedicated HT room, more of a family room/great room sort of thing, but yes, I can wait on the screen.





pbc said:


> Also, I keep hearing don't decide until you've seen it on a wall, is that mainly because I might "want" something bigger sort of thing? Or because there could be an issue with a 115" screen and a projector that is mounted 15-16 feet from the wall? Having my basement finished, so would need to decide on projector placement before they finish the ceiling, won't be a drop ceiling.


The NZ3 is a DLP projector with typical (poor) 4K DLP contrast, and does not relate to the other LCoS offerings that JVC has. 


Regarding the screen size, you literally can't asses how large a screen should be. As I've said, 115" is a very small screen from 15-16". Very small. Doesn't matter what type of room it is.
That's seating position not where the projector is placed.


----------



## pbc

noob00224 said:


> The NZ3 is a DLP projector with typical (poor) 4K DLP contrast, and does not relate to the other LCoS offerings that JVC has.
> 
> 
> Regarding the screen size, you literally can't asses how large a screen should be. As I've said, 115" is a very small screen from 15-16". Very small. Doesn't matter what type of room it is.
> That's seating position not where the projector is placed.


Lol...I'm used to being about 17-18 feet from a 65" OLED, so 115" seems like a dream. But I hear you.


----------



## met64

Quick question- I am currently using the 5030UB and has worked fantastic for the last 5 years. Considering upgrade to 5050UB AND wondering since it's not true4k will I notice a big difference coming from the 5030ub, in terms of sharper image? Primary use is movie watching and TV. Room is completely dark. Thx in advance,


----------



## noob00224

pbc said:


> Lol...I'm used to being about 17-18 feet from a 65" OLED, so 115" seems like a dream. But I hear you.


This is the first and biggest mistake new projector buyers make.

From this article: https://www.projectorcentral.com/pr...ing-Distance-for-My-Home-Theater&entry_id=784

_in informal polls online, enthusiasts have overwhelmingly been choosing a screen size with a diagonal of between 10 inches- to 12 inches-per-foot of viewing distance. Some go larger. Some go much larger. A minority choose to go smaller. 
_
From that distance I think you would need a screen of ~200" diagonal, if there's room. Might sound like a large screen, but it's not. Some might think it's still too small still.


While how bright the screen has to be is also a matter a personal preference, generally speaking the 5050UB should not be used with a screen larger than 150-160", with a screen with 1.0 gain. A HC3800 is ~25% brighter, but will less picture quality. For screens this large venue projectors are required. Relevant info here and the previous posts:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...jector-large-outdoor-screen.html#post59951386


----------



## noob00224

met64 said:


> Quick question- I am currently using the 5030UB and has worked fantastic for the last 5 years. Considering upgrade to 5050UB AND wondering since it's not true4k will I notice a big difference coming from the 5030ub, in terms of sharper image? Primary use is movie watching and TV. Room is completely dark. Thx in advance,


Generally speaking yes. But 4K HDR is not just about resolution. Other components are more important, such as grading of the 4K HDR, color gamut, and then resolution.

What's the screen size and seating distance?


----------



## met64

noob00224 said:


> Generally speaking yes. But 4K HDR is not just about resolution. Other components are more important, such as grading of the 4K HDR, color gamut, and then resolution.
> 
> What's the screen size and seating distance?


Thx for response. Right now screen size is 92" but considering larger, to 100". Seating distance is right at 13 feet. Recently replaced my AVR with 4k. Movie watching primarily through Apple TV (4K).


----------



## noob00224

met64 said:


> Thx for response. Right now screen size is 92" but considering larger, to 100". Seating distance is right at 13 feet. Recently replaced my AVR with 4k. Movie watching primarily through Apple TV (4K).


I don't know if you will see a difference between 4K and 1080p with a screen that size from 13'. 

But it's your personal preference.

My personal preference (for scope movies) would be 170" (16:9) from 13'.


----------



## Ladeback

noob00224 said:


> I don't know if you will see a difference between 4K and 1080p with a screen that size from 13'.
> 
> But it's your personal preference.
> 
> My personal preference (for scope movies) would be 170" (16:9) from 13'.


I have a 120" 16:9 screen and my eyes to screen are around 10' to 10.5'. Recommendations are around 11'. You should be good at 9.5' to 10' eye to screen from a 100" screen. But if it bothers you, you could move the seats back. Now my eyes to screen on our 75' 4K TV is 14' or so, because that it based on where my wife wants the furniture at. I wanted a bigger screen and move the sofa's up, but got denied. I can do what ever in my theater though.


----------



## met64

Ladeback said:


> I have a 120" 16:9 screen and my eyes to screen are around 10' to 10.5'. Recommendations are around 11'. You should be good at 9.5' to 10' eye to screen from a 100" screen. But if it bothers you, you could move the seats back. Now my eyes to screen on our 75' 4K TV is 14' or so, because that it based on where my wife wants the furniture at. I wanted a bigger screen and move the sofa's up, but got denied. I can do what ever in my theater though.


Based on my room, and setup the largest screen I could get would probably be 110" and witH that size, wonder what viewing will be like at 13 feet. Guess its all personal preference. I know in our family room, recently upgraded to 75" Samsung 9 series and viewing is about 15 feet- could see noticeable difference in 4k content vs prior 1080p display. 

Thanks again,


----------



## covsound1

biglen said:


> The top is without MadVR, and the bottom is with MadVR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I like what i see. I am going to read from start to finish the madvr post . At moment i have jriver loaded have not burned any thing as i dont have the correct drive. I may have madvr loaded but i dont see the workflow could be because i dont have any movies. So much to learn.:frown:


----------



## DaGamePimp

*OT: Just curious as to what NIT value you guys are using with madVR on the 5050/6050?*

- I need to measure my 900+ hour lamp and see what I have left to work with.


I am experimenting with the DTM after seeing if I can make my 2080ti break a sweat by maxing out as much as possible (without adding artifacts). 


It's impressive but I wish there was a retail disc solution for PC where we could still max out the settings (which simply can't be done on an iGPU).

I have the required LG drive to rip but would prefer to put a disc in and hit play (damn HDCP). 

- Jason


----------



## robl2

met64 said:


> Based on my room, and setup the largest screen I could get would probably be 110" and witH that size, wonder what viewing will be like at 13 feet. Guess its all personal preference.


My screen's 105" and my eyeballs are about 10' from the screen. I would not have mind slightly larger, but no space in this room. You get used to a big screen really quick.


----------



## Delton05

*How close to the screen can you get before a noticable screen door effect with the 6050?
*
I'm looking to buy a 6050 and would appreciate any thoughts on the likelihood of noticable screen door effect using this PJ in my batcave situation.


Screen size: 120
PJ to Screen distance: 12 1/4 feet
MLP to Screen distance: 7 1/2 feet
Recently saw a video comparison on the NX7, 6050, and another PJ where when they zoomed in real close, you could see flyscreen effect quite noticably on the the 6050 though not on the native 4K PJs the 6050 was compared to.

Currently have a Sony VW500 4K projector, but its losing it's shine, so looking for better picture, blacks, HDR, etc. 


Thx


----------



## noob00224

DaGamePimp said:


> *OT: Just curious as to what NIT value you guys are using with madVR on the 5050/6050?*
> 
> - I need to measure my 900+ hour lamp and see what I have left to work with.
> 
> 
> I am experimenting with the DTM after seeing if I can make my 2080ti break a sweat by maxing out as much as possible (without adding artifacts).
> 
> 
> It's impressive but I wish there was a retail disc solution for PC where we could still max out the settings (which simply can't be done on an iGPU).
> 
> I have the required LG drive to rip but would prefer to put a disc in and hit play (damn HDCP).
> 
> - Jason


The nits value needs to be the real nits off the screen. Madvr's tone mapping is especially usefull for projectors. I saw one user with ~25 nits if I remember correctly.


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> The nits value needs to be the real nits off the screen. Madvr's tone mapping is especially usefull for projectors. I saw one user with ~25 nits if I remember correctly.


If I remember correctly, someone in the MadVR forum told me to set mine to 200.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## GIbryl

Delton05 said:


> *How close to the screen can you get before a noticable screen door effect with the 6050?
> *
> I'm looking to buy a 6050 and would appreciate any thoughts on the likelihood of noticable screen door effect using this PJ in my batcave situation.
> 
> 
> Screen size: 120
> PJ to Screen distance: 12 1/4 feet
> MLP to Screen distance: 7 1/2 feet
> Recently saw a video comparison on the NX7, 6050, and another PJ where when they zoomed in real close, you could see flyscreen effect quite noticably on the the 6050 though not on the native 4K PJs the 6050 was compared to.
> 
> Currently have a Sony VW500 4K projector, but its losing it's shine, so looking for better picture, blacks, HDR, etc.
> 
> 
> Thx



You’re really not going to notice any screen door at all except maybe on text and only if you look for it. 
Image on 4K content is softer than the NX7 but you won’t see gaps between pixels. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

noob00224 said:


> *The nits value needs to be the real nits off the screen*. Madvr's tone mapping is especially useful for projectors. I saw one user with ~25 nits if I remember correctly.



Of course, that's why I was curious as to what people were getting. 

- Jason


----------



## xxmugxx

Does anyone know how accurate projector central's throw calculator is for the 5050/6050? Looking to get the largest screen possible for a ~12' room which is maybe a little over 10' throw distance from lens to screen.


----------



## noob00224

biglen said:


> If I remember correctly, someone in the MadVR forum told me to set mine to 200.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That's not accurate. If you can provide the screen size, gain, how far away the projector is placed, preset and lamp mode used, and lamp hours, I can provide an estimate of nits. For gain ask MM if you're using the Black Flame painted screen. Or use a light meter/colorimeter.

The gamma must also be set, which I think I already mentioned:
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=223175&page=37


----------



## noob00224

xxmugxx said:


> Does anyone know how accurate projector central's throw calculator is for the 5050/6050? Looking to get the largest screen possible for a ~12' room which is maybe a little over 10' throw distance from lens to screen.


It's accurate, but maybe not down to 1mm. You can do it manually. It's minimum throw is 1.35x. So take the distance (lens to screen) and divide by 1.35. That is the width of the screen. Then input the width here:
http://screen-size.info/

But take into consideration the projector's depth, room for cables at the back, distance between wall and screen.



DaGamePimp said:


> Of course, that's why I was curious as to what people were getting.
> 
> - Jason



For most users the best they're going to get is an estimate.


----------



## olegg

biglen said:


> If I remember correctly, someone in the MadVR forum told me to set mine to 200.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Hi biglen, quick question, I've noticed in your HT build, next to Epson you have google mini. Have you managed to control the epson with it or it is just for home automation?


----------



## biglen

olegg said:


> Hi biglen, quick question, I've noticed in your HT build, next to Epson you have google mini. Have you managed to control the epson with it or it is just for home automation?


I use it to control the lights in my theater. When I play a movie in Kodi, the lights go off, and when I hit pause or stop, the lights come back on. It's an Add-on in Kodi, called Kodi Callbacks. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## vagos1103gr1

biglen said:


> I use it to control the lights in my theater. When I play a movie in Kodi, the lights go off, and when I hit pause or stop, the lights come back on. It's an Add-on in Kodi, called Kodi Callbacks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


very interesting that, can you be more specific how you do that? I found the add on, you need to do something else in google mini?


----------



## vagos1103gr1

vagos1103gr1 said:


> very interesting that, can you be more specific how you do that? I found the add on, you need to do something else in google mini?


also do you know how to shift up the subtitles when you watch movies with external subs on Kodi and 2.35.1? 
In infuse for able tv has a setting for that but Apple TV doesn't support bitstream. I also find annoying streaming Netflix Hulu and to not can shift the subs.


----------



## biglen

vagos1103gr1 said:


> very interesting that, can you be more specific how you do that? I found the add on, you need to do something else in google mini?


You need a SmartThings hub too. 

https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-kodi-xbmc-callback-endpoint-for-light-control/34068

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

noob00224 said:


> For most users the best they're going to get is an estimate.



Probably, unless they order an inexpensive light/lux meter like this https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Luxm...7&sr=1-4-e2650614-163c-483e-9cc8-c2098b28068f and do the calculations themselves.

- Jason


----------



## noob00224

DaGamePimp said:


> Probably, unless they order an inexpensive light/lux meter like this https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Luxm...7&sr=1-4-e2650614-163c-483e-9cc8-c2098b28068f and do the calculations themselves.
> 
> - Jason


That's exactly the one I have . Just to make sure I ordered another model and there's a 15% difference between them. I don't know if you have any experience with this, but I also used a lux meter app from a phone, which read a 15-20% higher value still.
The 2nd meter is a URCERI MT-912 which registers 15% brighter than the LX1010B.

When I did the average between the two meters, the lamp was 30% less bright than it was supposed to. So estimates are not that accurate.


----------



## DaGamePimp

noob00224 said:


> That's exactly the one I have . Just to make sure I ordered another model and there's a 15% difference between them. I don't know if you have any experience with this, but I also used a lux meter app from a phone, which read a 15-20% higher value still.
> The 2nd meter is a URCERI MT-912 which registers 15% brighter than the LX1010B.
> 
> When I did the average between the two meters, the lamp was 30% less bright than it was supposed to. So estimates are not that accurate.


Consider that your 'supposed to' is also based upon an estimate. 

I have owned multiples of brand new models and had them measure up to a ~20% difference in lux output out of the box. Many years ago I actually returned a PJ that was fully functional but only had 2/3 of its manufacturer suggested (estimated) lumen output out of the box.

Unit to unit, lamp to lamp, variance (as we were recently discussing) means that there can easily be a 10-15% variance in lumen output (especially as lamp hours increase).

I have owned a couple of the inexpensive lux-meters over the years and when measured against proper gear they have been within ~10% (as I recall I had one that was only about 5% off).

So at the end of the day even using an inexpensive lux meter is better than just taking a guess based upon where it should be. 

- Jason


----------



## martinstraka8282

Greetings!

I've read through a fair amount of this thread trying to find answers of what I'm looking at for HDR performance/tweaking and am a bit confused based on what I've read. Lots of discussion of MadVR and I don't see myself going down that road atm.

I'm planning a home theatre makeover this summer/fall with a New projector, TV, AVR & a PS5 when it releases. The PS5 will be the UHD player for a while and the whole project can be held off until it's released, if necessary. Expecting new models to be announced or released seems like fools gold with Covid and all. With wanting to buy so much at once, my wife has pressured me to lower my budget on the projector to get the project to come in under $10k.

I realize info on the PS5 is a bit scarce and may prohibit some feedback possibilities here, but that will be my main machine for movies and gaming. Anything else for now will be a 1080P only device, including my plex server. One day I will buy a UHD standalone player.

I was all set to buy the JVC NX5, but I was asked to try to settle for less. From my research, the only one real alternative in the mix is the 6050UB. The whole reason I had been stuck on the NX5 was the true 4k, but more importantly the significantly better HDR tone mapping reported with JVC's line.

Can anyone break it down for a 4k/HDR newb what kind of on the fly adjustments I'm looking at with this thing? Is it constant fiddling or more of a periodic thing? I can live with some concessions on PQ (I have previously with buying an Epson 8500UB many years ago over JVC), but I know I will regret it if I'm making adjustments each time I put something on.

While I would never buy something on the premise of expecting a firmware update, is this something that could potentially be improved via firmware like JVC did?

I would also be curious to hear anyone that might have experienced an 8500UB and one of these 6050UB's to weigh in on fan noise. I found the 8500 quite loud and annoying at times.


----------



## sherid00

Hi guys first time projector owner here and I realize I'm probably duplicating a bunch of already asked questions on here but I couldn't find the answer in the over 7000 comments. I've been going around and around trying to figure out what to buy and how much to spend but I think I landed on the Epson 5050UB or 5050UBe. I have a dedicated game room with a prewired spot in the ceiling about 13 feet away from the wall and 9 feet high from where the screen will go. I plan on getting blackout blinds and installing a barn door to reduce daytime light. I just want to touch bases with the experts here and make sure I'm making a good choice. $3000 is definintly more than I want to spend but it seems like the reviews are great everywhere I look. It will be used mostly for my kids gaming, me watching sports (finger crossed) and some family movie nights. 

So my question is - does this sound like the right projector for me, what size screen/color/brand should get (silver ticket - gray material - Amazon?), where should I buy it from, and do I want the 5050UB or 5050UBe? Thank you so much for any help.


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> That's not accurate. If you can provide the screen size, gain, how far away the projector is placed, preset and lamp mode used, and lamp hours, I can provide an estimate of nits. For gain ask MM if you're using the Black Flame painted screen. Or use a light meter/colorimeter.
> 
> The gamma must also be set, which I think I already mentioned:
> https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=223175&page=37


This was another suggestion by a 5050 owner. I'm going to give it a try.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Spivey11

martinstraka8282 said:


> Greetings!
> 
> I've read through a fair amount of this thread trying to find answers of what I'm looking at for HDR performance/tweaking and am a bit confused based on what I've read. Lots of discussion of MadVR and I don't see myself going down that road atm.
> 
> I'm planning a home theatre makeover this summer/fall with a New projector, TV, AVR & a PS5 when it releases. The PS5 will be the UHD player for a while and the whole project can be held off until it's released, if necessary. Expecting new models to be announced or released seems like fools gold with Covid and all. With wanting to buy so much at once, my wife has pressured me to lower my budget on the projector to get the project to come in under $10k.
> 
> I realize info on the PS5 is a bit scarce and may prohibit some feedback possibilities here, but that will be my main machine for movies and gaming. Anything else for now will be a 1080P only device, including my plex server. One day I will buy a UHD standalone player.
> 
> I was all set to buy the JVC NX5, but I was asked to try to settle for less. From my research, the only one real alternative in the mix is the 6050UB. The whole reason I had been stuck on the NX5 was the true 4k, but more importantly the significantly better HDR tone mapping reported with JVC's line.
> 
> Can anyone break it down for a 4k/HDR newb what kind of on the fly adjustments I'm looking at with this thing? Is it constant fiddling or more of a periodic thing? I can live with some concessions on PQ (I have previously with buying an Epson 8500UB many years ago over JVC), but I know I will regret it if I'm making adjustments each time I put something on.
> 
> While I would never buy something on the premise of expecting a firmware update, is this something that could potentially be improved via firmware like JVC did?
> 
> I would also be curious to hear anyone that might have experienced an 8500UB and one of these 6050UB's to weigh in on fan noise. I found the 8500 quite loud and annoying at times.


Howdy! I'm going through the same home theater upgrade process as you and had to laugh at our similarities.

Budget was/is a consideration for me also and I decided on the 6050UB. It has been installed for approx. 2 weeks or so now. The first impressions are very good. Like you I am waiting for the PS5 to use for future gaming and my UHD player. That being said, streaming 4k material via my Apple TV has been fairly impressive so far and even the upscaling on Blu Ray disks using my current non pro version of the PS4 has been really good. I like the ability of the 6050 to select the HDR setting and have found it useful and easy to use. I found that for the most part I select the color mode that is appropriate (like natural or cinema) and then on HDR content select the HDR button on the remote and adjust as necessary. Very quick to do and it appears to remember the last setting used. I believe you can use memory to save settings also, but haven't played with that much yet. I have found for my preferences an HDR setting between 2 and 4 works well for most things.

Auto tone mapping and true 4K would have been nice, but I don't feel like I made a poor choice going with the 6050 as the image really is great. As far as noise goes the eco and medium settings are very quiet and the projector is basically right above and behind my head. On bright mode the projector fan is loud enough that it could be bothersome. However, even with my theater room doors open and the lights on setting the color mode to bright cinema and using the medium lamp setting gives me all of the lumens that I have needed so far. I'm hoping that I will rarely, if ever, need the dynamic and high lamp mode.

By saving a bit of money on the projector I'm able to upgrade my screen. Which I believe will have longer term benefits. I'm reviewing materials now and am likely to choose either the Stewart Filmscreen CIMA with Neve material or the Balon Edge with the new StudioTek 130 G4 material.

Hope this helps! I read so much on this site that I'm just trying to give back a little.


----------



## MMoser

olegg said:


> Hi biglen, quick question, I've noticed in your HT build, next to Epson you have google mini. Have you managed to control the epson with it or it is just for home automation?


Newer Logitech Harmony remotes (with the hub) can also be called by Google Home/Mini to control the lights and Epson. 

Create an activity and tell Google to fire it up.
You can also create macros so if you hit play the lights go down, or when you hit stop it can turn the lights back on. Works great! 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ShadowBoy

sherid00 said:


> Hi guys first time projector owner here and I realize I'm probably duplicating a bunch of already asked questions on here but I couldn't find the answer in the over 7000 comments. I've been going around and around trying to figure out what to buy and how much to spend but I think I landed on the Epson 5050UB or 5050UBe. I have a dedicated game room with a prewired spot in the ceiling about 13 feet away from the wall and 9 feet high from where the screen will go. I plan on getting blackout blinds and installing a barn door to reduce daytime light. I just want to touch bases with the experts here and make sure I'm making a good choice. $3000 is definintly more than I want to spend but it seems like the reviews are great everywhere I look. It will be used mostly for my kids gaming, me watching sports (finger crossed) and some family movie nights.
> 
> So my question is - does this sound like the right projector for me, what size screen/color/brand should get (silver ticket - gray material - Amazon?), where should I buy it from, and do I want the 5050UB or 5050UBe? Thank you so much for any help.


Hi, sherid00. I'm by no means an expert, but here are a few thoughts on your situation.

I own the epson 6050UB but haven't set it up yet as I'm renovating my home cinema. I am currently using the Epson 2000, a fifteen year old projector, and despite the fact that the "replace lamp" warning light has been popping up for the past year, it stills throws a great picture. No doubt when my 6050 is up and running it will make this projector horrible in comparison, but for now it looks great. 

I'm sure you will find the 5050 stunning, however here are a few things to consider: the difference between the 5050UB and the UBe is that the UBe has wireless capabilities. If you don't need wireless get the UB and save your less a few hundred dollars. 

Secondly, you mention your usages as gaming, sports, and movies in that order. That being the case, if you are not susceptible to Rainbow effect from DLP projectors, I would consider getting one of the BenQ projectors. Although they are pixel shifters, they pixel shift 8 million pixel compared to 4 million for the Epson. More importantly motion on DLP projectors is usually better than LCD for sports and gaming. If you have never seen a DLP I would suggest demoing one to see if you notice rainbow effect before purchase. 
There are three models you could look at in the under $3000 range:
BenQ TK850 $1699
BenQ HT3550 $1699
BenQ HT5550 $2400

one last option for the true gaming projector 
Optoma UHD50x 4K Ultra UHD 240Hz Cinema gaming projector: 15.7ms lag time, 3400 lumens
Price $1599

Hope that helps, but more expert folks may chime in to give you a hand.


----------



## MannFan

Possibly an unanswerable question without knowing specifics but I have the 5050UB and am currently projecting on a white wall as I didn't want to get my screen until I had the projector mounted on the ceiling (it's on a shelf now) and I was sure of the dimensions, etc.

Well the mounting keeps getting pushed out because my ceiling has some water damage that needs repairing, so, for the time being.. are there any settings that I'm not taking advantage of as I've never calibrated it or messed with the settings beyond fiddling with my eyes at the brightness, contrast, etc.

You guys go so balls to the wall with color settings and what not, I feel like I may be missing out based on the fact that I didn't do much.

Thanks in advance! You guys rock.


----------



## sherid00

ShadowBoy thank you for all the advice and the new projectors to look into. I love the thought of saving a few bucks on my new home theater project. Question, being that this is our families first projector how often are people effected by the rainbow effect? Also say that it doesn't bother anyone in my family is it a fairly common thing that bothers people? Not that I care much about guests but I don't want to get something that is going to be constantly annoying people? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Sekosche

xxmugxx said:


> Does anyone know how accurate projector central's throw calculator is for the 5050/6050? Looking to get the largest screen possible for a ~12' room which is maybe a little over 10' throw distance from lens to screen.



Don’t go over a 105” screen if you want to fill it out with a 12’ maximum distance from wall to wall. I’ve got a 106” screen flush mounted in my 12’ x 14’ media room and can’t quite fill out that last inch or so, but the 5050 still looks incredible.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

biglen said:


> You need a SmartThings hub too.
> 
> https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-kodi-xbmc-callback-endpoint-for-light-control/34068
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I have st, do you know the handle device you use


----------



## biglen

vagos1103gr1 said:


> I have st, do you know the handle device you use


Handle device?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ShadowBoy

sherid00 said:


> ShadowBoy thank you for all the advice and the new projectors to look into. I love the thought of saving a few bucks on my new home theater project. Question, being that this is our families first projector how often are people effected by the rainbow effect? Also say that it doesn't bother anyone in my family is it a fairly common thing that bothers people? Not that I care much about guests but I don't want to get something that is going to be constantly annoying people? Thanks in advance.


What the rainbow effect is is a sort of strobing flash of colour at the periphery of your vision when watching the projector. It usually occurs when you are turning your head away from the screen. Some people are unaffected by it and can't see it. Others occasionally see it on fast moving scenes or white background scenes, others see it constantly and can't comfortably watch DLP projectors at all. The couple of times I've seen DLP projectors in stores I occasionally saw it. The only way to know how you feel about it would be to find a shop that has one to demo. BenQ does have a recent model with a different wheel system that has no rainbow effect but it is their $12,000 flagship projector. If you can't find a place to demo it or can't be bothered going down that road there are a couple of cheaper Epsons to check out:

Epson Home Cinema 3800 4K PRO-UHD 3-Chip Projector $1799
3200 lumens

EPSON HOME CINEMA 4010
$1999 2400 lumens

PRO CINEMA 4050 4K CAPABLE HOME THEATER

$2399 2400 lumens

As always demoing is the best thing.

Hope that helps and maybe other members might recommend some choices as well


----------



## ShadowBoy

sherid00 said:


> ShadowBoy thank you for all the advice and the new projectors to look into. I love the thought of saving a few bucks on my new home theater project. Question, being that this is our families first projector how often are people effected by the rainbow effect? Also say that it doesn't bother anyone in my family is it a fairly common thing that bothers people? Not that I care much about guests but I don't want to get something that is going to be constantly annoying people? Thanks in advance.


Here's a you tube video of rainbow effect. It is the blue and red fringing you see around objects. The pulsing you see at the beginning of the video is probably a result of the monitor being fired and not really rainbow effect.


----------



## ShadowBoy

ShadowBoy said:


> Here's a you tube video of rainbow effect. It is the blue and red fringing you see around objects. The pulsing you see at the beginning of the video is probably a result of the monitor being fired and not really rainbow effect.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYBurcnYx2g


This is probably a better example.


----------



## noob00224

martinstraka8282 said:


> I would also be curious to hear anyone that might have experienced an 8500UB and one of these 6050UB's to weigh in on fan noise. I found the 8500 quite loud and annoying at times.


Epson's specifications claim 20 – 31 dB for the 6050UB and 28 dB / 22 dB (Eco) for the 8500UB. If that's a problem build a hush box or place the projector in another room.



sherid00 said:


> Hi guys first time projector owner here and I realize I'm probably duplicating a bunch of already asked questions on here but I couldn't find the answer in the over 7000 comments. I've been going around and around trying to figure out what to buy and how much to spend but I think I landed on the Epson 5050UB or 5050UBe. I have a dedicated game room with a prewired spot in the ceiling about 13 feet away from the wall and 9 feet high from where the screen will go. I plan on getting blackout blinds and installing a barn door to reduce daytime light. I just want to touch bases with the experts here and make sure I'm making a good choice. $3000 is definintly more than I want to spend but it seems like the reviews are great everywhere I look. It will be used mostly for my kids gaming, me watching sports (finger crossed) and some family movie nights.
> 
> So my question is - does this sound like the right projector for me, what size screen/color/brand should get (silver ticket - gray material - Amazon?), where should I buy it from, and do I want the 5050UB or 5050UBe? Thank you so much for any help.


Depends on a few things.

Seating distance.

If there will be ambient light during viewing, and if yes how much.



biglen said:


> This was another suggestion by a 5050 owner. I'm going to give it a try.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


For madvr to work correctly it needs to be properly configured. You can't just copy and paste settings. At the very least the real nits need to be the real nits off the screen.


----------



## Delton05

GIbryl said:


> You’re really not going to notice any screen door at all except maybe on text and only if you look for it.
> Image on 4K content is softer than the NX7 but you won’t see gaps between pixels.


Thx, that's reassuring, _I'm about to buy this PJ._ 

Is it possible to see the screendoor effect with this PJ close up? - without zooming in on the image?

Anyone with 'normal' eyesight and a 6050 care to walk towards their screen (when it's projecting onto it...) and stop at the point where you can just see any screendoor effect?

How far are you from the screen at that point? What is your size screen?


_Note: If you walk INTO your screen whilst doing this favor, I won't be held responsible if you damage your screen... lol._


----------



## GIbryl

Delton05 said:


> Thx, that's reassuring, _I'm about to buy this PJ._
> 
> Is it possible to see the screendoor effect with this PJ close up? - without zooming in on the image?
> 
> Anyone with 'normal' eyesight and a 6050 care to walk towards their screen (when it's projecting onto it...) and stop at the point where you can just see any screendoor effect?
> 
> How far are you from the screen at that point? What is your size screen?
> 
> 
> _Note: If you walk INTO your screen whilst doing this favor, I won't be held responsible if you damage your screen... lol._



I’m not at home atm but honesty even at 3 feet /1 meter. It’s not going to be very noticeable. You’d notice image blur/compression artifacts etc first. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Delton05 said:


> Thx, that's reassuring, _I'm about to buy this PJ._
> 
> Is it possible to see the screendoor effect with this PJ close up? - without zooming in on the image?
> 
> Anyone with 'normal' eyesight and a 6050 care to walk towards their screen (when it's projecting onto it...) and stop at the point where you can just see any screendoor effect?
> 
> How far are you from the screen at that point? What is your size screen?
> 
> 
> _Note: If you walk INTO your screen whilst doing this favor, I won't be held responsible if you damage your screen... lol._


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...p/3100362-4k-pixel-shifting.html#post58821002
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...p/3100362-4k-pixel-shifting.html#post58819612


----------



## plain fan

When I compared the Epson 5050 and JVC NX5 in a Best Buy, I had to get my "nose near the screen" to see any screen door effect.

I wrote up my experience comparing these two projectors many pages ago, but if you search for my posts you'll find them. I spent a few hours comparing the two, in a light controlled room with one of their designers. He knew his stuff and recognized that I knew what I was looking for so it was a pleasant experience digging into the nuances that enthusiasts care about. The room wasn't a bat cave, but probably replicates a room that the average consumer would have, in other words you could easily walk around the room and not worry about falling over something or someone.

With that being said, covid cancelled my planned return trip in March where I was probably going to walk out of the store with one or the other.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

biglen said:


> Handle device?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Can you give some lighting how you use it with SmartThings?
Thanks


----------



## biglen

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Can you give some lighting how you use it with SmartThings?
> 
> Thanks


I posted the link on how to set it up. Did you read the tutorial? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## zambine

Delton05 said:


> Thx, that's reassuring, _I'm about to buy this PJ._
> 
> Is it possible to see the screendoor effect with this PJ close up? - without zooming in on the image?
> 
> Anyone with 'normal' eyesight and a 6050 care to walk towards their screen (when it's projecting onto it...) and stop at the point where you can just see any screendoor effect?
> 
> How far are you from the screen at that point? What is your size screen?
> 
> 
> _Note: If you walk INTO your screen whilst doing this favor, I won't be held responsible if you damage your screen... lol._


I just moved from a BenQ HT5550 to a 5050UB. My head is 10.5'-11' from a 120" screen. I notice no screen door effect and no perceived loss of sharpness going from 8M to 4M pixels at my current distance. I have perfect vision and I have to get within 2 feet of the screen and really look in order to notice any screen door effect.


The black levels are night and day vs any DLP projector I have ever owned. That and the significant increase in brightness makes the image pop WAY more than any DLP I've owned. All this plus the lower lag for gaming and ability to watch with ambient light present makes the 5050UB a definite winner in my book.

You will not regret your purchase even with a large screen at a close distance.


----------



## hungarianhc

How do I look for the screen-door effect? I sit about 11 feet back from my 115" screen, and I didn't see any funky effects.


----------



## GIbryl

hungarianhc said:


> How do I look for the screen-door effect? I sit about 11 feet back from my 115" screen, and I didn't see any funky effects.



Fine black lines between pixels. Squint hard! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

hungarianhc said:


> How do I look for the screen-door effect? I sit about 11 feet back from my 115" screen, and I didn't see any funky effects.


Get closer to the screen:


----------



## noob00224

More examples:



Luminated67 said:


> I seriously wish some people actually watched projectors rather and do a bit of keyboard warriorism, screendoor.... have you actually seen an Epson 5050/6050 in real life, based on your above comment I very much doubt it.
> 
> You ask anyone who actually owns one of these if they see SDE and every single one of them will say NO, I have actually done screen images right up to 1ft from my 100" screen and you don't see the pixel gap at all but you do see the pixels themselves, to see the gap you mention and show in that image I have to have almost my nose to the screen. Now frankly we all like an immersive experience but I'm even sure you would class this as too close a viewing distance.
> 
> Let me exact things, in simple answers:
> 
> 1/ does the HT5550 have more resolution than the 5050............YES, 100% correct, lets all shout it from the roof tops.
> 
> 2/ can you easily notice this improvement from say a viewing distance of 1ft per 10" of screen diagonal.......... NO.
> 
> Resolution is something that truly only becomes apparent on a still image and even then you generally have to step closer than the above parameters to see it.
> 
> I did this very test against my Epson in my room with a mates Sony 360es Native 4K who wanted to see what a real bat cave would do for his viewing experience, both him and I were shocked to find that neither of us could see any difference in image resolution when feed a UHD disc and it wasn't just us because I called up my sons who are both 19yr old and with perfect eye sight and neither could they. In fact we oldies had to move from my 9.5-10ft viewing distance down to 6ft to easily see the improvements but both felt that from 7ft you would be debating is there or isn't there an improvement so we called it 7ft.
> 
> The 360es was about 2.5 times more expensive when he bought his but his conclusion was that if he could do it all again he would have pocketed the difference and bought the Epson as I felt it was easily as good in every way.
> 
> BTW photo took 1ft from screen with a 1080p disc.





Luminated67 said:


> Complete and utter BS.
> 
> Here’s 8ft from a 100” screen, can you see the individual pixels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never heard so much twaddle in my life. DLP 4K owners have only two things to shout about, resolution and motion so for them they see difference in resolution at distances that others don’t, maybe they do something special that a Sony 360es can’t do or their eyes are somehow super duper but for the rest of us mere mortals you need to move your seat closer than what most class as normal view distance.


----------



## Luminated67

^Even better examples is the two videos I took. One with e-shift OFF and the other with it ON.











In both videos I close into the screen surface to approximately 2-3 inches away.

There is no denying that once close enough you will see the resolution difference between the Epson’s 2K and either True 4K or Native 4K but the reality is you have to be way closer than anyone would truly sit. In my opinion you will benefit from the improved contrast and brightness of the Epson compared to a DLP and as for either the Sony or JVC native 4K projectors, it’s really up to the individual if they want to spend the extra on either of these, they are an improvement but it’s questionable if you are gaining value of money compared to that of the Epson, for most it’s the one that offers the most performance of your buck.


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> That's not accurate. If you can provide the screen size, gain, how far away the projector is placed, preset and lamp mode used, and lamp hours, I can provide an estimate of nits. For gain ask MM if you're using the Black Flame painted screen. Or use a light meter/colorimeter.
> 
> The gamma must also be set, which I think I already mentioned:
> https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=223175&page=37


Screen size: 130" scope
Gain: 1.2
Projector distance: 13' 5"
Preset: Bright Cinema
Lamp: High
Lamp Hours: 610

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Delton05

Luminated67 said:


> In both videos I close into the screen surface to approximately 2-3 inches away.
> 
> In my opinion you will benefit from the improved contrast and brightness of the Epson compared to a DLP and as for either the Sony or JVC native 4K projectors, it’s really up to the individual if they want to spend the extra on either of these, they are an improvement but it’s questionable if you are gaining value of money compared to that of the Epson, for most it’s the one that offers the most performance of your buck.


Reassuring to hear SDE is not really noticeable at typical viewing distances. Thx for doing the video comparison, the PJ does look great.
I'm changing (down?) from a Sony VW500 native 4K PJ. I'm after improved contrast and brightness of the Epson, without spending way too much, again.


----------



## noob00224

Delton05 said:


> Reassuring to hear SDE is not really noticeable at typical viewing distances. Thx for doing the video comparison, the PJ does look great.
> I'm changing (down?) from a Sony VW500 native 4K PJ. I'm after improved contrast and brightness of the Epson, without spending way too much, again.


The Epson is probably brighter but I would check/ask around what the native contrast of the Sony is, because it might be a lot higher. The VW520ES can do between 12 000 and 25 000:1 native, not sure about dynamic (with iris). It's kind of a high end projector. The 5050UB can do ~4500:1 native and ~37 000:1 dynamic, substantially less.
https://projectiondream.com/en/review-projector-sony-vpl-vw520es/

You can ask here about native and dynamic contrast with the VW500:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...-vw500es-vw600es-4k-projector-thread-212.html

The only option for better blacks would be JVC, but the current unit probably already has very good blacks if it's at all similar to the 520. Maybe get it cleaned. I would just change the lamp and get a Panasonic UB420/820/9000 (last two have Dolby Vision) for HDR tone mapping. For increased brightness get a positive gain screen like a Stewart ST130 G4 or some other brand. Or paint the wall/white screen with a paint mix.

Is the room a batcave in the sense that the walls are treated? 

What fabric is the screen, screen model?



biglen said:


> Screen size: 130" scope
> Gain: 1.2
> Projector distance: 13' 5"
> Preset: Bright Cinema
> Lamp: High
> Lamp Hours: 610
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Estimated nits is 109.

If you want to change it due to the lamp aging or using different presets/lamp modes:

An 130" scope (2.35:1) has a surface square 42.28 ft².
http://screen-size.info/
https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/construction/square-footage-calculator.php

From this review take the measured lumens for the preset and lamp mode used:
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm

For Bright Cinema Preset with High lamp it's 1972 lumens. 

The 1972 lumen figure was measured for a 16:9 screen. An 130" 2.35:1 AR fits into a 137.2" 16:9 AR. The latter is 55.90 ft². The smaller screen is 75.63% of the larger screen as surface area. So the lumens would have to be reduced by this value.
1972 x 0.7563 = 1491

Lamps loose ~25% of their brightness after ~500h, and after that in a linear fashion until the lamp's rated hours, which is 50% of it's original brightness. For 610 hours:
1491 x 0.75 = 1118

The further away from the screen a projector is placed, the dimmer it will be. But in your setup it's placed at minimum throw ratio, so no light loss.

If the screen is actually 1.2 gain
1118 x 1.2 = 1341

1341 divided by the surface area of the 130" scope screen (42.28 ft²) = 31.37 fL

http://www.unitconversion.org/luminance/foot-lamberts-to-nits-conversion.html


This calculator only has some lamp modes and presets:
https://webprojectorcalculator.com/

Another way to verify is to get an inexpensive light meter like the one DaGamePimp linked (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-263.html#post59962830), or use an app on the phone. 
The result will be in LUX.

So take the _LUX measurement _x _0.092903_ x _screen gain at your viewing angle _x _3.4263 _= nits.


----------



## Delton05

noob00224 said:


> The Epson is probably brighter but I would check/ask around what the native contrast of the Sony is, because it might be a lot higher. The VW520ES can do between 12 000 and 25 000:1 native, not sure about dynamic (with iris). It's kind of a high end projector. The 5050UB can do ~4500:1 native and ~37 000:1 dynamic, substantially less.
> https://projectiondream.com/en/review-projector-sony-vpl-vw520es/
> 
> You can ask here about native and dynamic contrast with the VW500:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...-vw500es-vw600es-4k-projector-thread-212.html
> 
> The only option for better blacks would be JVC, but the current unit probably already has very good blacks if it's at all similar to the 520. Maybe get it cleaned. I would just change the lamp and get a Panasonic UB420/820/9000 (last two have Dolby Vision) for HDR tone mapping. For increased brightness get a positive gain screen like a Stewart ST130 G4 or some other brand. Or paint the wall/white screen with a paint mix.
> 
> Is the room a batcave in the sense that the walls are treated?
> 
> What fabric is the screen, screen model?
> 
> Estimated nits is 109.


 From memory, the VW500ES is 1500 lumens, so 2600 from the 6050 is already significantly more. Sony claim a 200,000:1 dynamic range, but I hear that figure gets worse over time. 

For my situation the estimated nits with the 6050 is 264. 

(PJ to Screen: 12.25 feet, MLP to Screen:7.5 feet, Majestic Screen Gain: 1.26, Size 120" 16x9. I can only cover the whole screen with wide angle zoom just about maxed.


The same will be the case with the Epson. Is there any advantages/disadvantages/distortions with operating a PJ on wide zoom, all the time.


The Sony VW500ES was released just before HDR became a thing, so I'm expecting having HDR on the 6050 will definitely give me a picture which pops out more with brightness and contract. 

Oh, and I do have a batcave. pic attached.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

biglen said:


> I posted the link on how to set it up. Did you read the tutorial?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Link? Thanks


----------



## noob00224

Delton05 said:


> From memory, the VW500ES is 1500 lumens, so 2600 from the 6050 is already significantly more. Sony claim a 200,000:1 dynamic range, but I hear that figure gets worse over time.
> 
> For my situation the estimated nits with the 6050 is 264.
> 
> (PJ to Screen: 12.25 feet, MLP to Screen:7.5 feet, Majestic Screen Gain: 1.26, Size 120" 16x9. I can only cover the whole screen with wide angle zoom just about maxed.
> 
> 
> The same will be the case with the Epson. Is there any advantages/disadvantages/distortions with operating a PJ on wide zoom, all the time.
> 
> 
> The Sony VW500ES was released just before HDR became a thing, so I'm expecting having HDR on the 6050 will definitely give me a picture which pops out more with brightness and contract.
> 
> Oh, and I do have a batcave. pic attached.


That screen has not been measured, so I don't know of it's actual gain.

Your projector is close to it's minimum throw ratio, which means almost no brightness loss. This is great. While the literature says that they should not be used at the extreme, I don't think you will notice any issues.

The nits estimate I assume you're getting from Projector Central. Those estimates are for the highest lamp and preset. The highest preset on most projectors has a green tint. It's present on the 5050/6050UB.


Those lumen values are not accurate. The Epson can do (with regular presets) 
~1400 lumens in low lamp 
~1500 lumens with Medium lamp 
~1950 with High lamp

When the DCI P3 filter is enabled however, you get 
~700 in low lamp
~820 with Medium lamp
~1050 with High lamp

The Sony can do 
~1000 in low lamp
~1400 in high lamp 

Not sure how they compare db wise, but Sonys are known to be amongst the quietest projectors.

So it's not exactly the difference you were expecting. Your screen is not that large, and it's actually 1.26 gain It would be fine for HDR with the Sony.


The Sony supports 4K resolution, but it does not do HDR tone mapping.

However, it does cover ~87% of the DCI P3 color gamut, which is about the same as the Epson. The Epson can cover 100%, but requires a filter which significantly reduces brightness, as noted above.


The Panasonic UB players mentioned above have slightly better tone mapping than the Epsons. And they're relatively inexpensive, at least the 420 is.

IMO the Epson will look worse than your current unit. 


What you can do is get a Panasonic player (which has streaming options) and see what it looks like. 

I also recommend to inquire in these threads with regards to compatibility since the Sony can accept 4K, but only YCbCr 4:2:0 / 8 bit (https://pro.sony/en_BE/products/4k-home-cinema-projectors/vpl-vw500es)
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/149-...olby-vision-blu-ray-player-now-available.html
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/210-video-source-items/3069370-panasonic-ub-820-a.html

The vw500es thread liked above discusses these issues:



Dave Harper said:


> The UB900 also has a setting to choose TV or Projector.
> 
> Yes you can send 10 bit to the Sony, but I think the driver board is limited to 8 bits (per Seegs108). The SXRD panels themselves are 12 bit.
> 
> Yes the x.v.Color (x.v.YCC) setting is a little bit wider gamut, but the source has to also have that capability, and not many do. I think the PS3 does. But since it is capable of wider than rec709 color gamut, you can send the BT2020 (which is for now just P3 inside the 2020 container) and it will go out as far as it can color wise, which if I recall gets to about 87% of DCI-P3 color gamut for the Sonys. So you do get some benefit by sending BT2020 from your UHD players, etc. I saw this first hand while testing a 350ES, 365ES & 675ES.
> 
> HDFury has two out now, the Integral and the Linker, and a new one coming in Nov called the Vertex that does what each of those do combined, and then some!


Black level is the most difficult, expensive and sought after feature with projectors.

You have a batcave which is great for high contrast projectors, the Epson will be a downgrade from the contrast/black level perspective. If you really want an upgrade, as I mentioned before, JVC is the only way.


----------



## Luminated67

Delton05 said:


> Reassuring to hear SDE is not really noticeable at typical viewing distances. Thx for doing the video comparison, the PJ does look great.
> I'm changing (down?) from a Sony VW500 native 4K PJ. I'm after improved contrast and brightness of the Epson, without spending way too much, again.


I honestly don’t know how the Epson compares with the VW500, the Sony model I had in my room to compare with was the VW360. In that case both myself and it’s owner felt the blacks were very similar so I can only assume the VW500 will be a bit better again, the surprise for both of us was that we both preferred the Epson with 1080P source material and with 4K neither of us could see the increased resolution of the Native chipped Sony until we moved to within 7ft of my 100” screen but it actually took to 6ft to properly see it for sure. For the money the Epson is very hard to beat, but if your intention is to get something significantly better than your Sony you really should be considering the N5/7 JVCs, I know it might be more than you want to throw into it again but I do feel you need to get demos of each before parting with your cash, personally I am more than happy with my Epson and to be honest I have had the cash set aside for one of these JVCs for quite some time but I presently don’t feel any pressing desire to make the switch.

Took this from the movie Cloud Atlas which was 1080P









Here’s a video from YouTube of demo 4K HDR


----------



## noob00224

Luminated67 said:


> I honestly don’t know how the Epson compares with the VW500, the Sony model I had in my room to compare with was the VW360. In that case both myself and it’s owner felt the blacks were very similar so I can only assume the VW500 will be a bit better again, the surprise for both of us was that we both preferred the Epson with 1080P source material and with 4K neither of us could see the increased resolution of the Native chipped Sony until we moved to within 7ft of my 100” screen but it actually took to 6ft to properly see it for sure. For the money the Epson is very hard to beat, but if your intention is to get something significantly better than your Sony you really should be considering the N5/7 JVCs, I know it might be more than you want to throw into it again but I do feel you need to get demos of each before parting with your cash, personally I am more than happy with my Epson and to be honest I have had the cash set aside for one of these JVCs for quite some time but I presently don’t feel any pressing desire to make the switch.


I don't know what the exact circumstances of the comparison was, or if the Sony was calibrated for that room. The better blacks will show up in low brightness scenes. And you have to wait a few minutes for the eye to adjust. The poster might be more sensitive to this change in contrast ratio. 
You didn't mention if the iris on either projector was used or not.

According to Sony's specifications the 520 has 300 000:1 dynamic contrast vs. 200 000:1 on the 360. 
This post claims the 360 has 150 000:1 dynamic:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...500-4k-enhanced-jvc-x770-4k.html#post54937784

I'm not that familiar with this lineup so I don't know what the native contrast is for the 360, or the native and dynamic for the 500 which the poster has.

A UB420 is not that expensive and cheaper than switching projectors. Just saying it's not worth spending $4000 (how much a 6050UB is in the US) when a player can be used. The HDR tone mapping is the main lacking feature here. It might even provide a better looking picture.

I don't know if this is true or not, but I've seen written that even though you can't see the screen door effect, a unit with better pixel fill can have a different better look? @bdht?


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> The Epson is probably brighter but I would check/ask around what the native contrast of the Sony is, because it might be a lot higher. The VW520ES can do between 12 000 and 25 000:1 native, not sure about dynamic (with iris). It's kind of a high end projector. The 5050UB can do ~4500:1 native and ~37 000:1 dynamic, substantially less.
> https://projectiondream.com/en/review-projector-sony-vpl-vw520es/
> 
> You can ask here about native and dynamic contrast with the VW500:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...-vw500es-vw600es-4k-projector-thread-212.html
> 
> The only option for better blacks would be JVC, but the current unit probably already has very good blacks if it's at all similar to the 520. Maybe get it cleaned. I would just change the lamp and get a Panasonic UB420/820/9000 (last two have Dolby Vision) for HDR tone mapping. For increased brightness get a positive gain screen like a Stewart ST130 G4 or some other brand. Or paint the wall/white screen with a paint mix.
> 
> Is the room a batcave in the sense that the walls are treated?
> 
> What fabric is the screen, screen model?
> 
> 
> 
> Estimated nits is 109.
> 
> If you want to change it due to the lamp aging or using different presets/lamp modes:
> 
> An 130" scope (2.35:1) has a surface square 42.28 ft².
> http://screen-size.info/
> https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/construction/square-footage-calculator.php
> 
> From this review take the measured lumens for the preset and lamp mode used:
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm
> 
> For Bright Cinema Preset with High lamp it's 1972 lumens.
> 
> The 1972 lumen figure was measured for a 16:9 screen. An 130" 2.35:1 AR fits into a 137.2" 16:9 AR. The latter is 55.90 ft². The smaller screen is 75.63% of the larger screen as surface area. So the lumens would have to be reduced by this value.
> 1972 x 0.7563 = 1491
> 
> Lamps loose ~25% of their brightness after ~500h, and after that in a linear fashion until the lamp's rated hours, which is 50% of it's original brightness. For 610 hours:
> 1491 x 0.75 = 1118
> 
> The further away from the screen a projector is placed, the dimmer it will be. But in your setup it's placed at minimum throw ratio, so no light loss.
> 
> If the screen is actually 1.2 gain
> 1118 x 1.2 = 1341
> 
> 1341 divided by the surface area of the 130" scope screen (42.28 ft²) = 31.37 fL
> 
> http://www.unitconversion.org/luminance/foot-lamberts-to-nits-conversion.html
> 
> 
> This calculator only has some lamp modes and presets:
> https://webprojectorcalculator.com/
> 
> Another way to verify is to get an inexpensive light meter like the one DaGamePimp linked (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...ub-thread-no-price-talk-263.html#post59962830), or use an app on the phone.
> The result will be in LUX.
> 
> So take the _LUX measurement _x _0.092903_ x _screen gain at your viewing angle _x _3.4263 _= nits.


Great, thanks! So where do I put the 109, in the "display peak luminance" box, or in the "dynamic target nits" box? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Link? Thanks


https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-kodi-xbmc-callback-endpoint-for-light-control/34068

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## brettpjames57

*On display in NOVA/DC area?*

Anyone know where I could see a 5050 or 6050 in the Northern Virginia/DC area? I'm torn between them and a JVC NX5 but I'm balking at the $6K price tag for the JVC. 
Seems like everyone is happy with these - my main concern is SDE. I'll be 14ft away from a 135" 2.35:1 screen and from the last couple of pages, it doesn't seem like I would be disappointed.


----------



## noob00224

biglen said:


> Great, thanks! So where do I put the 109, in the "display peak luminance" box, or in the "dynamic target nits" box?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


In the display peak luminance. The dynamic target nits is a slider of sorts. Lower gives less HDR effect, higher results in more HDR effect. 50 as it was in the previous screenshot is quite low. Try between 75 and 150. It's based on personal preference. 

Also
change no compression limit to 0
change to desaturate 1+2
check disable avghighlights ceiling

I don't know if I would use that higher setting for highlight recovery. From the guide:
_*highlight recovery strength:* medium. You run the risk slightly overcooking the image by enabling this setting, but tone mapping can often leave the image appearing overly flat in spots due to compression caused by the roll-off. So any help with texture detail is welcome. Another huge hog on performance. I prefer medium as it seems most natural without giving the image a sharpened appearance. Higher values will make compressed portions of the image appear sharper, but they also invite the possibility of introducing ringing artifacts from aggressive enhancement or simply making the image appear unnatural. _

For color tweaks and explosions look at the guide. There are screenshots with how it looks like at different settings. Search for *Recommended Use (tone mapping curve):*
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188

Change the gamma in 

devices>(5050)>calibration 
to pure power curve : whatever the projector was calibrated at. The calibrator should know or maybe told you.

devices>(5050)>color & gamma
check enable gamma processing
pure power curve, the same as in calibration above

Also while in calibration, check this display is already calibrated, and the color gamut to whatever it's been calibrated to. Try DCI P3 or 2020.


----------



## Luminated67

noob00224 said:


> I don't know what the exact circumstances of the comparison was, or if the Sony was calibrated for that room. The better blacks will show up in low brightness scenes. And you have to wait a few minutes for the eye to adjust. The poster might be more sensitive to this change in contrast ratio.
> You didn't mention if the iris on either projector was used or not.
> 
> According to Sony's specifications the 520 has 300 000:1 dynamic contrast vs. 200 000:1 on the 360.
> This post claims the 360 has 150 000:1 dynamic:
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-d...500-4k-enhanced-jvc-x770-4k.html#post54937784
> 
> I'm not that familiar with this lineup so I don't know what the native contrast is for the 360, or the native and dynamic for the 500 which the poster has.
> 
> A UB420 is not that expensive and cheaper than switching projectors. Just saying it's not worth spending $4000 (how much a 6050UB is in the US) when a player can be used. The HDR tone mapping is the main lacking feature here. It might even provide a better looking picture.
> 
> I don't know if this is true or not, but I've seen written that even though you can't see the screen door effect, a unit with better pixel fill can have a different better look? @bdht?


We only did the basics of calibration with the S&M disc, I was unfamiliar with the Sony so the owner took charge of setting it up for the room and I assume the Auto Iris was on but honestly couldn’t answer either way. The whole objective of the day for the mate with the Sony was to see how it looked in a fully treated room because he was debating doing the same, for me I want to see how the resolution difference looked between machine.


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> In the display peak luminance. The dynamic target nits is a slider of sorts. Lower gives less HDR effect, higher results in more HDR effect. 50 as it was in the previous screenshot is quite low. Try between 75 and 150. It's based on personal preference.
> 
> Also
> change no compression limit to 0
> change to desaturate 1+2
> check disable avghighlights ceiling
> 
> I don't know if I would use that higher setting for highlight recovery. From the guide:
> _*highlight recovery strength:* medium. You run the risk slightly overcooking the image by enabling this setting, but tone mapping can often leave the image appearing overly flat in spots due to compression caused by the roll-off. So any help with texture detail is welcome. Another huge hog on performance. I prefer medium as it seems most natural without giving the image a sharpened appearance. Higher values will make compressed portions of the image appear sharper, but they also invite the possibility of introducing ringing artifacts from aggressive enhancement or simply making the image appear unnatural. _
> 
> For color tweaks and explosions look at the guide. There are screenshots with how it looks like at different settings. Search for *Recommended Use (tone mapping curve):*
> https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188
> 
> Change the gamma in
> 
> devices>(5050)>calibration
> to pure power curve : whatever the projector was calibrated at. The calibrator should know or maybe told you.
> 
> devices>(5050)>color & gamma
> check enable gamma processing
> pure power curve, the same as in calibration above
> 
> Also while in calibration, check this display is already calibrated, and the color gamut to whatever it's been calibrated to. Try DCI P3 or 2020.


Okay, thank you so much for all that info. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Manu9

GIbryl said:


> Fine black lines between pixels. Squint hard!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Just be careful when squinting, sometimes you're too focused and forget to breathe.


----------



## biglen

noob00224 said:


> In the display peak luminance. The dynamic target nits is a slider of sorts. Lower gives less HDR effect, higher results in more HDR effect. 50 as it was in the previous screenshot is quite low. Try between 75 and 150. It's based on personal preference.
> 
> Also
> change no compression limit to 0
> change to desaturate 1+2
> check disable avghighlights ceiling
> 
> I don't know if I would use that higher setting for highlight recovery. From the guide:
> _*highlight recovery strength:* medium. You run the risk slightly overcooking the image by enabling this setting, but tone mapping can often leave the image appearing overly flat in spots due to compression caused by the roll-off. So any help with texture detail is welcome. Another huge hog on performance. I prefer medium as it seems most natural without giving the image a sharpened appearance. Higher values will make compressed portions of the image appear sharper, but they also invite the possibility of introducing ringing artifacts from aggressive enhancement or simply making the image appear unnatural. _
> 
> For color tweaks and explosions look at the guide. There are screenshots with how it looks like at different settings. Search for *Recommended Use (tone mapping curve):*
> https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=259188
> 
> Change the gamma in
> 
> devices>(5050)>calibration
> to pure power curve : whatever the projector was calibrated at. The calibrator should know or maybe told you.
> 
> devices>(5050)>color & gamma
> check enable gamma processing
> pure power curve, the same as in calibration above
> 
> Also while in calibration, check this display is already calibrated, and the color gamut to whatever it's been calibrated to. Try DCI P3 or 2020.


-2 would be the gamma setting I'd use, correct? Here's my settings done by the professional calibrator.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MSloss

*Upgrading my 12 year old theater room to 4K*

I built out my basement theater room in 2008 to make it a very enjoyable HD viewing, 7.2 listening experience at that time and in the years since. The only upgrade was replacing the original Mitsubishi HC4900 projector that died in 2010 with a Panasonic AE4000. I have been in no hurry to upgrade to 4K until recently when my wife pointed out how inferior the 106" projected image was compared to our 65" plasma upstairs. That got me started looking into what it would take to do 4K right without breaking the bank.

I have a 35ft HDMI cable through the wall and ceiling to the projector which I will also need to replace to support at least HDMI 2.0, and preferably 2.1 for the future. Fishing a new cable will be challenging, but I think doable. 

I started reading projector reviews, and the Epson 5050 seems to be the best choice after eliminating the BenQ 3550 given it was not able to handle a 13' throw.

That next leaves me with upgrading my old Onkyo 605 with a receiver to support 4K pass-through. My initial choice was to get the Onkyo TX-NR696 which gets great reviews, but after reading about the HDMI 2.1 features and benefits, I would prefer to get a receiver that supported those for the future. But my reading has suggested that would have very little benefit with a home theater projector, mainly gaming with 8K capable flat panels. Also, there are no affordable 2.1 receivers announced yet, and there seem to be question on whether Onkyo will be introducing one soon, or even be a player much longer.

So this all leads me to pose a question to you 5050 owners based on your knowledge and experience -- should I wait for a 2.1 receiver, go with the 696 which got great reviews, or consider another receiver to pair it with? The Onkyo is in very short supply and is even listed as discontinued on some sites, so I am hoping they have a 2.1 replacement ready to be announced soon. Also considering the Yamaha TSR-7850 currently at Costco.
FYI, my input sources would be UHD Blu Ray (considering the Sony UBP-X800M2) DirectV (HD for now, hoping receiver and projector will do a decent job up-converting to 4K), and a 4K FireStick. No gaming.

Thank you,

Mike


----------



## Luminated67

If anyone is interested I have adjusted my sharpness down from the default setting of 5/5/5 to 2/2/2, I have also tweaked the Image Enhancement setting on preset 2 and 3, I’m always from the machine now but I can recall preset 3.

Noise reduction : 3
MegNoise reduction: 0
Super Resolution 
Fine line : 6
Soft Focus : 6
Detail Enhancement
Strength : 28
Range : 28

Will check what Preset 2 is at next time I’m watching something.

I no longer go beyond preset 3 as I feel it’s the sweet spot.


----------



## telescopee0

Hi guys , Is there any significant difference if I zoom all the way to the max on Epson 5050ub to get a bigger screen vs. less zoom to get more clarity? Does higher zoom affect the image quality? I am projecting from 11 feet and projecting at 106inches. I am almost 75% zooming in, but could do go all the way to 100% to get a bigger screen. Will that jeopardize the image quality?


----------



## biglen

telescopee0 said:


> Hi guys , Is there any significant difference if I zoom all the way to the max on Epson 5050ub to get a bigger screen vs. less zoom to get more clarity? Does higher zoom affect the image quality? I am projecting from 11 feet and projecting at 106inches. I am almost 75% zooming in, but could do go all the way to 100% to get a bigger screen. Will that jeopardize the image quality?


Nope. I'm zoomed out 100%, and there is zero quality lost. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## telescopee0

Any good quality/budget screens recommendations for Epson 5050? I am in Canada, and my max budget is $500. I am looking at elite screens, and they have tons of options, so not sure which ones the best.


----------



## DaGamePimp

telescopee0 said:


> Hi guys , Is there any significant difference if I zoom all the way to the max on Epson 5050ub to get a bigger screen vs. less zoom to get more clarity? Does higher zoom affect the image quality? I am projecting from 11 feet and projecting at 106inches. I am almost 75% zooming in, but could do go all the way to 100% to get a bigger screen. Will that jeopardize the image quality?


Optical zoom does have an impact...

No zoom (smallest image from a given distance) = maximum contrast

Maximum zoom (largest image from a given distance) = maximum brightness

Also pixels obviously increase in size as you use more zoom (that's how optical zoom works)

It's generally suggested to aim for mid zoom unless there is a specific use case (or room restrictions relative to screen size desired leave no option).

- Jason


----------



## telescopee0

DaGamePimp said:


> telescopee0 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi guys , Is there any significant difference if I zoom all the way to the max on Epson 5050ub to get a bigger screen vs. less zoom to get more clarity? Does higher zoom affect the image quality? I am projecting from 11 feet and projecting at 106inches. I am almost 75% zooming in, but could do go all the way to 100% to get a bigger screen. Will that jeopardize the image quality?
> 
> 
> 
> Optical zoom does have an impact...
> 
> No zoom (smallest image from a given distance) = maximum contrast
> 
> Maximum zoom (largest image from a given distance) = maximum brightness
> 
> Also pixels obviously increase in size as you use more zoom (that's how optical zoom works)
> 
> It's generally suggested to aim for mid zoom unless there is a specific use case (or room restrictions relative to screen size desired leave no option).
> 
> - Jason
Click to expand...

I actually felt the same way. The image quality was definitely better when zoomed out. It was a bit brighter with better blacks. And I am only projecting on my wall. Thanks for clarifying.


----------



## Delton05

noob00224 said:


> That screen has not been measured, so I don't know of it's actual gain.
> 
> Your projector is close to it's minimum throw ratio, which means almost no brightness loss. This is great. While the literature says that they should not be used at the extreme, I don't think you will notice any issues.
> 
> The nits estimate I assume you're getting from Projector Central. Those estimates are for the highest lamp and preset. The highest preset on most projectors has a green tint. It's present on the 5050/6050UB.
> 
> You have a batcave which is great for high contrast projectors, the Epson will be a downgrade from the contrast/black level perspective. If you really want an upgrade, as I mentioned before, JVC is the only way.



Thx for your helpful post. Good news about the no brightness loss. With those other figures, I think I'd need that.


I'm not sure about spending double for the JVC, I heard they had some color line issues... but I don't know anything more.


I've got no major complaints with the Sony - you can always think you could do with more black with most PJ, I suppose - but I do feel I'm missing out in not having HDR.


You've convinced me to haul my Sony in for a A-B test, though, thanks.


----------



## hungarianhc

GIbryl said:


> Fine black lines between pixels. Squint hard!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ah! I found them! I see it from about 18" away. Maybe 2 feet. Pretty good since I sit ten feet back


----------



## Luminated67

I’m almost but not quite at maximum zoom, look at my image collection on Dropbox in my signature and seriously tell me do you think I am losing any sharpness.


----------



## noob00224

DaGamePimp said:


> Optical zoom does have an impact...
> 
> No zoom (smallest image from a given distance) = maximum contrast
> 
> Maximum zoom (largest image from a given distance) = maximum brightness
> 
> Also pixels obviously increase in size as you use more zoom (that's how optical zoom works)
> 
> It's generally suggested to aim for mid zoom unless there is a specific use case (or room restrictions relative to screen size desired leave no option).
> 
> - Jason


Yes, but can you see the difference with your eyes?


----------



## DaGamePimp

noob00224 said:


> Yes, but can you see the difference with your eyes?


Absolutely, what else would I 'see' it with.  


Seriously though it is both measurable and visible.

The variance from max contrast to max brightness via using the optical zoom only is detectable but it's not a night & day difference on the 5050ub (many other PJ's have more variance). 


Regarding SDE, the better your optical focus the more likely you are to see it (the more distinct you can make the grid the more you will see it).

SDE is one of the main reasons I avoided owning LCD projectors (pre 5050ub) other than a Panasonic AE4000 that used an interesting method to mostly eliminate SDE (at the cost of some sharpness).

- Jason


----------



## Luminated67

DaGamePimp said:


> Absolutely, what else would I 'see' it with.
> 
> 
> Seriously though it is both measurable and visible.
> 
> The variance from max contrast to max brightness via using the optical zoom only is detectable but it's not a night & day difference on the 5050ub (many other PJ's have more variance).
> 
> 
> Regarding SDE, the better your optical focus the more likely you are to see it (the more distinct you can make the grid the more you will see it).
> 
> SDE is one of the main reasons I avoided owning LCD projectors (pre 5050ub) other than a Panasonic AE4000 that used an interesting method to mostly eliminate SDE (at the cost of some sharpness).
> 
> - Jason


I think my video shows how little SDE is actually present and once you turn of the e-shift it completely disappears.


----------



## HTX^2steve

noob00224 said:


> More examples:


What if I use a mesh screen for my picture screen...would they cancel out the SDE? ;-)


----------



## hungarianhc

Hi All,

I've been living w/ my new 5050UB + SI Black Diamond screen for about 72 hours now, and I'm blown away! Questions about how to make this user friendly for my wife and others in the house...

- Game mode: Is the only real thing needed to set this picture mode to fast, instead of fine? That's game mode? And if so, is there a way to set that w/ a Harmony when I turn it on?
- Speaking of Harmony, it does not look like I can set a specific setting like bright cinema, dynamic, or whatever with a single startup sequence, right?
- I've turned off HDMI control on both the receiver and the projector. If I switch to an input for Chromecast with the intent of playing music in the room, and it works, and then I want to turn the projector off, that switches off the receiver. This is if I turn the PJ off manually. Thoughts on this?
- What other macros / pre-programmable tips are there for people who want everything nicely automated?

I'm getting comfortable w/ flipping between fast / fine, the various color modes, etc. , but I would rather not, and I don't think my wife does. Is there a way to simplify this? thanks!


----------



## martinstraka8282

Spivey11 said:


> Howdy! I'm going through the same home theater upgrade process as you and had to laugh at our similarities.
> 
> Budget was/is a consideration for me also and I decided on the 6050UB. It has been installed for approx. 2 weeks or so now. The first impressions are very good. Like you I am waiting for the PS5 to use for future gaming and my UHD player. That being said, streaming 4k material via my Apple TV has been fairly impressive so far and even the upscaling on Blu Ray disks using my current non pro version of the PS4 has been really good. I like the ability of the 6050 to select the HDR setting and have found it useful and easy to use. I found that for the most part I select the color mode that is appropriate (like natural or cinema) and then on HDR content select the HDR button on the remote and adjust as necessary. Very quick to do and it appears to remember the last setting used. I believe you can use memory to save settings also, but haven't played with that much yet. I have found for my preferences an HDR setting between 2 and 4 works well for most things.
> 
> Auto tone mapping and true 4K would have been nice, but I don't feel like I made a poor choice going with the 6050 as the image really is great. As far as noise goes the eco and medium settings are very quiet and the projector is basically right above and behind my head. On bright mode the projector fan is loud enough that it could be bothersome. However, even with my theater room doors open and the lights on setting the color mode to bright cinema and using the medium lamp setting gives me all of the lumens that I have needed so far. I'm hoping that I will rarely, if ever, need the dynamic and high lamp mode.
> 
> By saving a bit of money on the projector I'm able to upgrade my screen. Which I believe will have longer term benefits. I'm reviewing materials now and am likely to choose either the Stewart Filmscreen CIMA with Neve material or the Balon Edge with the new StudioTek 130 G4 material.
> 
> Hope this helps! I read so much on this site that I'm just trying to give back a little.


Hey thanks for the reply on Friday, I headed out camping just after I posted this, so a little late popping back in. I appreciate the feedback and interesting to see I'm not the only one in this position. As someone who lived with what I've got and sort of checked out of research for many years now, I'm finally educating myself on 4k looking to upgrase, and it's a bit overwhelming at times.

Can you elaborate on what the process is like adjusting for HDR content with the 6050? That's the part I'm really trying to gauge if I mind the required adjustments or not and what that looks like. I think from the sounds of it, the PQ would be satisfying.

Is this something that requires constant adjustment each time you change content? If I change the game I play, even if on the same console, am I then faced with adjusting again? Same goes for switching UHD movies with HDR?

Are we talking a bunch of settings or is it primarily one setting you adjust each time like the 2 to 4 adjustment you referenced?

And I guess another question since I have no experience with 4k displays, am I making a big deal out of something that's also needed for TV's, or do they typically come with auto tone mapping and you're not adjusting settings frequently?


----------



## martinstraka8282

noob00224 said:


> Epson's specifications claim 20 – 31 dB for the 6050UB and 28 dB / 22 dB (Eco) for the 8500UB. If that's a problem build a hush box or place the projector in another room.


Thanks. I guess maybe my expectations are just too high. My 8500UB is still the only projector I've spent any time with, so have zero else for comparison.


----------



## telescopee0

Hey guys, quick question - When I connect the HDMI cable to HDMI1 connection, the picture quality is considerably better than when I connect to HDMI 2. Can you tell me why is there such a huge difference?


----------



## beavnuts

So I purchased one of these in April and I actually received it at the end of April. It replaced a BENQ W1070 and I have been loving it so far. Unfortunately, something happened yesterday and I only have 16 lamp hours on the unit. I have this large blue band running down the middle of the screen. I spoke to Epson and they are going to replace it with a refurb unit and while it may be too late, I am curious if I am getting screwed over. After searching for my problem around the internets, it seemed to affect older units. So it surprising that it happened with a unit that is less than three months old and with the small amount of lamp hours.


----------



## pbc

telescopee0 said:


> Any good quality/budget screens recommendations for Epson 5050? I am in Canada, and my max budget is $500. I am looking at elite screens, and they have tons of options, so not sure which ones the best.


I can just think of Elune Vision but not sure what they carry in that price point.


----------



## noob00224

telescopee0 said:


> Any good quality/budget screens recommendations for Epson 5050? I am in Canada, and my max budget is $500. I am looking at elite screens, and they have tons of options, so not sure which ones the best.


The most recommended budget screens are Silver Ticket, matte white fabric. Unless you can paint, a wall or a white screen, which would result in a better screen.

What color are the walls, and if they are light, can they be painted?

https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/


----------



## Manu9

DaGamePimp said:


> Optical zoom does have an impact...
> 
> No zoom (smallest image from a given distance) = maximum contrast
> 
> Maximum zoom (largest image from a given distance) = maximum brightness
> 
> Also pixels obviously increase in size as you use more zoom (that's how optical zoom works)
> 
> It's generally suggested to aim for mid zoom unless there is a specific use case (or room restrictions relative to screen size desired leave no option).
> 
> - Jason



Is there a way to reset zoom btw? I'm honestly not sure if I'm zoomed in or out from the default.


----------



## Keith AP

Manu9 said:


> Is there a way to reset zoom btw? I'm honestly not sure if I'm zoomed in or out from the default.


Maybe this; "To move the lens to the home position, press and hold the Lens button on the remote control or control panel for at least three seconds."

This will also change the shift position if you made adjustments though.


----------



## MSloss

MSloss said:


> I built out my basement theater room in 2008 to make it a very enjoyable HD viewing, 7.2 listening experience at that time and in the years since. The only upgrade was replacing the original Mitsubishi HC4900 projector that died in 2010 with a Panasonic AE4000. I have been in no hurry to upgrade to 4K until recently when my wife pointed out how inferior the 106" projected image was compared to our 65" plasma upstairs. That got me started looking into what it would take to do 4K right without breaking the bank.
> 
> I have a 35ft HDMI cable through the wall and ceiling to the projector which I will also need to replace to support at least HDMI 2.0, and preferably 2.1 for the future. Fishing a new cable will be challenging, but I think doable.
> 
> I started reading projector reviews, and the Epson 5050 seems to be the best choice after eliminating the BenQ 3550 given it was not able to handle a 13' throw.
> 
> That next leaves me with upgrading my old Onkyo 605 with a receiver to support 4K pass-through. My initial choice was to get the Onkyo TX-NR696 which gets great reviews, but after reading about the HDMI 2.1 features and benefits, I would prefer to get a receiver that supported those for the future. But my reading has suggested that would have very little benefit with a home theater projector, mainly gaming with 8K capable flat panels. Also, there are no affordable 2.1 receivers announced yet, and there seem to be question on whether Onkyo will be introducing one soon, or even be a player much longer.
> 
> So this all leads me to pose a question to you 5050 owners based on your knowledge and experience -- should I wait for a 2.1 receiver, go with the 696 which got great reviews, or consider another receiver to pair it with? The Onkyo is in very short supply and is even listed as discontinued on some sites, so I am hoping they have a 2.1 replacement ready to be announced soon. Also considering the Yamaha TSR-7850 currently at Costco.
> FYI, my input sources would be UHD Blu Ray (considering the Sony UBP-X800M2) DirectV (HD for now, hoping receiver and projector will do a decent job up-converting to 4K), and a 4K FireStick. No gaming.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Mike


I was hoping for some feedback here before taking any action, but good deals this week were too good to pass up. Since the Onkyo receiver availability is a big unknown, I gave up on waiting for it because the rest of the components would be mostly useless without a 4K receiver. I now have, or will have by the end of the week, all the new components to upgrade:
Epson 5050UB 
Sony UBP-X800M2 
Yamaha TSR-7850 
RUIPRO 8K HDMI 33ft Fiber Optic Cable

I would still appreciate any advice on recommended calibration settings, etc. before I start putting this all together this weekend.

Thanks,

Mike


----------



## hungarianhc

Hi All, 1 comment and 1 question...

*Comment:*
In case this isn't obvious to others, you can program sequences with a harmony remote so that with one button, the remote runs through some macros and puts in a sequence of keys. I've been able to do this to create non-toggle buttons on my Harmony screen that say, "Normal Brightness," "Ultra Bright," and "Dark Cinema." I think everyone who uses my setup should get that... Bright is normal. Ultra is if all the windows are open for a mid day game. Dark Cinema is for movie time at night.

*Question:*
What exactly does memory save? I have a memory for bright, ultra bright, and cinema, each with the right color mode, but it doesn't appear to save different HDR slider modes for each one, which is a bit frustrating. Does anyone know what is saved and what needs to be toggled? I'd like a low HDR number for all of my bright modes and a high HDR number for my dark cinema setting.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## martinstraka8282

If one were faced with an Epson 6050 or a JVC DLA-X790 for essentially the same price brand new, what would be the best buy?

An acquaintance is going through a divorce and is selling his brand new JVC he never got set up before things went sideways for him. It would mean one less year warranty from sitting around, but it's brand new from a licensed dealer.

I can't seem to find an answer to this question anywhere... Does anyone know if that JVC model got the auto tone mapping update the NX line got as well? That seems to be the big separator.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Manu9 said:


> Is there a way to reset zoom btw? I'm honestly not sure if I'm zoomed in or out from the default.


Reducing your image until it is as small as it can be would = no zoom. Beyond that I have not tried any of the 'reset' procedures.




martinstraka8282 said:


> If one were faced with an Epson 6050 or a JVC DLA-X790 for essentially the same price brand new, what would be the best buy?
> 
> An acquaintance is going through a divorce and is selling his brand new JVC he never got set up before things went sideways for him. It would mean one less year warranty from sitting around, but it's brand new from a licensed dealer.
> 
> I can't seem to find an answer to this question anywhere... Does anyone know if that JVC model got the auto tone mapping update the NX line got as well? That seems to be the big separator.


As a 5050ub owner... the x790r would be my suggestion, it's the unit I was looking for but did not want to spend an extra ~ $1500 to get (back when I got the 5050ub on sale).

I would verify from the dealer/JVC if there would be any warranty left at all on the JVC since they only honor warranty to the original buyer (even if it is new in box).

I don't think the x790r has received a DTM firmware update, you could use a custom curve to improve, DTM would require the use of madVR for video playback (just as it would on the 5050/6050ub). 

- Jason


----------



## martinstraka8282

DaGamePimp said:


> Reducing your image until it is as small as it can be would = no zoom. Beyond that I have not tried any of the 'reset' procedures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a 5050ub owner... the x790r would be my suggestion, it's the unit I was looking for but did not want to spend an extra ~ $1500 to get (back when I got the 5050ub on sale).
> 
> I would verify from the dealer/JVC if there would be any warranty left at all on the JVC since they only honor warranty to the original buyer (even if it is new in box).
> 
> I don't think the x790r has received a DTM firmware update, you could use a custom curve to improve, DTM would require the use of madVR for video playback (just as it would on the 5050/6050ub).
> 
> - Jason


Thanks Jason, that's what I'm leaning towards, but good point on the warranty, I had not considered that and would definitely want a clear answer on that. I had to warranty my current Epson 8500 twice, so I know the value a warranty can bring.

I was gathering from the web that it likely didn't receive the updated firmware with auto tone mapping, but the vendor he bought it from has that heavily advertised with pictures and all in the list of features, so thought maybe it did get the update. Would not be the first time to get incorrect info from a vendor. This is what they had on the product page, am I confusing this with something else the NX line received via firmware for handling HDR that so many rave about?

_Automatic Adjustment with Auto Tone Mapping
The Auto Tone Mapping function featured on the latest models automatically adjusts each content based on the values in the mastering data. (such as Max CLL and Max FALL). They indicate the brightness of the HDR content. For optimal viewing of various HDR images with different brightness, it automatically adjusts image quality._


----------



## MannFan

Wait, so if I have a freshly painted white wall that looks pretty good, am I going to gain much from a silver ticket or more affordable screen? Broad question I know but I'm not sure it's even worth the cost if I'm not going to get a Black Diamond screen or something which is way out of my budget. I'm in a bright room during the day but don't really use it then as I have an OLED close by. At night it's dark enough or I can just close my blinds and curtains which makes it pitch black.


----------



## Manu9

Keith AP said:


> Maybe this; "To move the lens to the home position, press and hold the Lens button on the remote control or control panel for at least three seconds."
> 
> This will also change the shift position if you made adjustments though.


Sadly that doesn’t reset the zoom, only the position.


----------



## mon2479

MannFan said:


> Wait, so if I have a freshly painted white wall that looks pretty good, am I going to gain much from a silver ticket or more affordable screen? Broad question I know but I'm not sure it's even worth the cost if I'm not going to get a Black Diamond screen or something which is way out of my budget. I'm in a bright room during the day but don't really use it then as I have an OLED close by. At night it's dark enough or I can just close my blinds and curtains which makes it pitch black.


What some people dont understand about wall treatment is that just because you have blackout curtains and the lights off, doesnt mean it will give you a great picture. It all has to do with light reflection off of the screen and the white walls. White walls is the worst of all colors and just really doesnt give you a great picture. If picture quality doesnt matter, then any color is fine. I have a completely black painted room with special paint that minimizes light reflection and it's still not dark enough for me when I watch a movie. My next project will be 100% black velvet.


----------



## biglen

MannFan said:


> Wait, so if I have a freshly painted white wall that looks pretty good, am I going to gain much from a silver ticket or more affordable screen? Broad question I know but I'm not sure it's even worth the cost if I'm not going to get a Black Diamond screen or something which is way out of my budget. I'm in a bright room during the day but don't really use it then as I have an OLED close by. At night it's dark enough or I can just close my blinds and curtains which makes it pitch black.


Check out this thread. There is some great info on how wall colors affect the image. 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

*HDR Recognition Issues with Terminator Dark Fate UHD Bluray*

Last night I encountered my first issue with a 4k UHD disc in Terminator Dark Fate. The disc's opening logos and IPR Warning was recognized by my Epson 5050UB as HRD encoded but once the movie logos began and throughout the movie it was SDR. I had to manually switch the Dynamic Range from AUTO to HDR. But then it noticeably darkened the image requiring an adjustment in the HDR Slider menu of my projector AND in my Panasonic 820's HDR Setting to Light Environment. BUT, then there was some loss in clarity most apparent in the closing credit scroll. The Panasonic 820's Playback Info screen showed all the correct information with HDR encoding but the Epson's USER screen showed SDR. I neglected to take a shot of the USER INFO screen but the second image attached shows the HDR status as AUTO and SDR with the slider grayed out.

Has anyone else had a similar problem?


I'll move this to the BluRay Review thread adn will post back there after I exchange the disc at BestBuy.


----------



## Luminated67

About to change screen size from 100” 16:9 to 112” 2.35:1 which wI’ll require repositioning the projector. Due to my ceiling height of 7ft 6 inches and instead of directly above me it will be now behind the seats and in the area where we walk I’m thinking I need a very low profile mount that allows the projector to hung the ceiling as much as possible.

So my question is has anyone got the Epson ELPMB30 mount and how close does it actually place the projector to the ceiling and is it any good?


----------



## martinstraka8282

martinstraka8282 said:


> Thanks Jason, that's what I'm leaning towards, but good point on the warranty, I had not considered that and would definitely want a clear answer on that. I had to warranty my current Epson 8500 twice, so I know the value a warranty can bring.
> 
> I was gathering from the web that it likely didn't receive the updated firmware with auto tone mapping, but the vendor he bought it from has that heavily advertised with pictures and all in the list of features, so thought maybe it did get the update. Would not be the first time to get incorrect info from a vendor. This is what they had on the product page, am I confusing this with something else the NX line received via firmware for handling HDR that so many rave about?
> 
> _Automatic Adjustment with Auto Tone Mapping
> The Auto Tone Mapping function featured on the latest models automatically adjusts each content based on the values in the mastering data. (such as Max CLL and Max FALL). They indicate the brightness of the HDR content. For optimal viewing of various HDR images with different brightness, it automatically adjusts image quality._


I ended up inquiring with JVC and just thought I'd follow up on my post.

Warranties do not transfer, so great heads up on that thanks.

They also said the Auto Tone Mapping feature was incorrectly advertised on the Vendor's product page. That line the the DLA-X790RB is in did not get the update and only has manual adjustment.


----------



## Luminated67

martinstraka8282 said:


> I ended up inquiring with JVC and just thought I'd follow up on my post.
> 
> Warranties do not transfer, so great heads up on that thanks.
> 
> They also said the Auto Tone Mapping feature was incorrectly advertised on the Vendor's product page. That line the the DLA-X790RB is in did not get the update and only has manual adjustment.


The HDR on the x790 is not as good as the built in setup of the 9400 but if use intend to add a PC to run MadVR then this will replace the internal setups of both projectors and in that case the JVC would definitely offer a better image, though based of my own experience the Epson still looks a little sharper. The lack of warranty would worry me personally, so it something you need to take on board if you buy secondhand.


----------



## martinstraka8282

Luminated67 said:


> The HDR on the x790 is not as good as the built in setup of the 9400 but if use intend to add a PC to run MadVR then this will replace the internal setups of both projectors and in that case the JVC would definitely offer a better image, though based of my own experience the Epson still looks a little sharper. The lack of warranty would worry me personally, so it something you need to take on board if you buy secondhand.


I think the whole MadVR setup is unlikely for me, but we'll see.

That lack of warranty is the killer. I'm all for a deal, but not at the expense of the comfort a warranty provides on a $4-5k purchase.


----------



## Luminated67

martinstraka8282 said:


> I think the whole MadVR setup is unlikely for me, but we'll see.
> 
> That lack of warranty is the killer. I'm all for a deal, but not at the expense of the comfort a warranty provides on a $4-5k purchase.


I feel the same way and to be honest the 5050/6050 Epsons throw an amazing image too, I can definitely confirm this.

Multiple times. 😊


----------



## TSO2

EASY QUESTION - 
New 5050UB owner here - the first week we used the projector, i could have sworn that the fans ran for a bit after turning it fully off (which would be normal PJ behavior, in my experience). However, this past week i noticed that upon turning off the projector, the fans run maybe 3 seconds, then all goes silent. Is this normal?
What do YOUR projectors do?
Granted, our basement room is nice a cool, but...this is worrying.


----------



## TSO2

noob00224 said:


> The most recommended budget screens are Silver Ticket, matte white fabric. Unless you can paint, a wall or a white screen, which would result in a better screen.
> 
> What color are the walls, and if they are light, can they be painted?
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/


I echo the recommendation for the Silver Ticket screens from Amazon. Its a very well made product! The bright matte white was perfect, 133", for my basement.
I sadly left a Dalite HIgh Power 2.8 in my old house, but this screen actually creates a smoother, more lifelike image than the high power, if a little darker.
For a basic, 1.0 gain matte white fixed screen, i can't think of a reason to get anything else. Looks GREAT with the Epson 5050ub.


----------



## telescopee0

Hey guys, I have found if I connect my devices to HDMI 1, the image quality is way better than HDMI 2. Why is that? HDMI 2 gives very bright color with very bad contrast. I have switched HDMI cables, but still face this problem with hdmi2. why is this happening? I'd it a defect?


----------



## martinstraka8282

telescopee0 said:


> Hey guys, I have found if I connect my devices to HDMI 1, the image quality is way better than HDMI 2. Why is that? HDMI 2 gives very bright color with very bad contrast. I have switched HDMI cables, but still face this problem with hdmi2. why is this happening? I'd it a defect?


Could the picture settings be saved for each input separately?


----------



## telescopee0

martinstraka8282 said:


> telescopee0 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I have found if I connect my devices to HDMI 1, the image quality is way better than HDMI 2. Why is that? HDMI 2 gives very bright color with very bad contrast. I have switched HDMI cables, but still face this problem with hdmi2. why is this happening? I'd it a defect?
> 
> 
> 
> Could the picture settings be saved for each input separately?
Click to expand...

Even with same picture settings as HDMI 1, the difference is night and day between pictures between HDMI 1 and 2. Could it be possible that HDMI 2 is broken or defective?


----------



## martinstraka8282

telescopee0 said:


> Even with same picture settings as HDMI 1, the difference is night and day between pictures between HDMI 1 and 2. Could it be possible that HDMI 2 is broken or defective?


I haven't had that myself, so can't really weigh in, but I assume it would be possible yes. I know I've seen claims of broken HDMI's or TV's being sold with disclaimers like that on the ad.


----------



## telescopee0

martinstraka8282 said:


> telescopee0 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Even with same picture settings as HDMI 1, the difference is night and day between pictures between HDMI 1 and 2. Could it be possible that HDMI 2 is broken or defective?
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't had that myself, so can't really weigh in, but I assume it would be possible yes. I know I've seen claims of broken HDMI's or TV's being sold with disclaimers like that on the ad.
Click to expand...

Ah jeez. In that case, would a HDMI splitter work if I plan to use HDMI 1 and add a splitter to include 2-3 more HDMI ports. Would this jeapordize the quality of content I watch?


----------



## martinstraka8282

telescopee0 said:


> Ah jeez. In that case, would a HDMI splitter work if I plan to use HDMI 1 and add a splitter to include 2-3 more HDMI ports. Would this jeapordize the quality of content I watch?


Not in my experience, although they can be finicky and you'll want to confirm they are properly specced.


----------



## DaGamePimp

TSO2 said:


> EASY QUESTION -
> New 5050UB owner here - the first week we used the projector, i could have sworn that the fans ran for a bit after turning it fully off (which would be normal PJ behavior, in my experience). However, this past week i noticed that upon turning off the projector, the fans run maybe 3 seconds, then all goes silent. Is this normal?
> What do YOUR projectors do?
> Granted, our basement room is nice a cool, but...this is worrying.


It depends upon the internal sensor temp, that is normal behavior for this unit.




telescopee0 said:


> Ah jeez. In that case, would a HDMI splitter work if I plan to use HDMI 1 and add a splitter to include 2-3 more HDMI ports. Would this jeapordize the quality of content I watch?



Did you try to reset all the settings on HDMI 2 (is it set to enhanced)?

If you do not pass through an AVR and need a few more HDMI inputs at the PJ I can vouch for this inexpensive little switch... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083P4928Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Jason


----------



## msetexas

I just received and unboxed my 5050ub and there is no back cover. I realize it will be removed and not used but the lack of a back cover raises concerns that I did not receive a new unit.

It was purchased through the retailer in the deals forum that is offering 10% off. I am not aware of anyone else having issues with them (unless I missed the post)

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance


----------



## alangsk

msetexas said:


> I just received and unboxed my 5050ub and there is no back cover. I realize it will be removed and not used but the lack of a back cover raises concerns that I did not receive a new unit.
> 
> It was purchased through the retailer in the deals forum that is offering 10% off. I am not aware of anyone else having issues with them (unless I missed the post)
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks in advance



I had the same question and was told they do not come with the back panel, at least not now (not sure if they use to).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## msetexas

alangsk said:


> I had the same question and was told they do not come with the back panel, at least not now (not sure if they use to).
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you so much - quite relieved. Also, when I registered the SN with Epson, it went fine so I think all is good. Only other concern was bottom says model H930A even though unit and box read 5050. Epson registration noted it as a 5050.

Cheers


----------



## CZ Eddie

AVS thread search function isn't working well for me today (or it's not been posted yet).
Can someone tell me the screw thread size for mounting this projector?
My 5030UB uses M4, so I'm hoping that's what the 5050UB will use when it arrives.

And if you happen to know whether this fits a 5030UB projector mount, that would also be helpful.

------
EDIT:
------

Got the PJ yesterday and hooked it all up already.
It uses the exact same M4 screws and inner quad-bolt pattern, which may or may not be a standard VESA pattern.
I only use the inner four screw holes, did not test the other screw holes.

It was a super simple swapout.
I dropped my 5030UB and installed the 5050UB in its place without needing anything new.
Same screws, same mount and everything.

Even the remote control and menu are pretty much the same.

And my ultra widescreen zoom in/out for wide vs 16:9 remained the same. 

Hope this info helps the next buyer coming from a 5030UB.
And yes, this is obviously an upgrade. The first thing I noticed was how much colors pop out more.
And this was coming from a 5030UB that had just 50 hours on the original "spare" Epson lamp.


----------



## bullfrog23414

I have a ~3 week old 6050 projecting onto a 158" 2.35 screen and was wondering if any of you have paired your Epsons with the Panamorph Paladin A-lens. I see that they're on clearance right now. I have the the throw (1.7x) to handle it. I was just hoping for some "real world" comments on improvements and dealing with the "middle" ARs (2.0, 2.1 etc.). I spent quite a bit more on my HT than I had planned (as I'm sure is common) and I'm actually pretty happy with the PJ performance as it stands, so I'm trying to figure out if I should spend the extra few thousand on an A lens or just be happy with what I've got.


----------



## noob00224

martinstraka8282 said:


> If one were faced with an Epson 6050 or a JVC DLA-X790 for essentially the same price brand new, what would be the best buy?
> 
> An acquaintance is going through a divorce and is selling his brand new JVC he never got set up before things went sideways for him. It would mean one less year warranty from sitting around, but it's brand new from a licensed dealer.
> 
> I can't seem to find an answer to this question anywhere... Does anyone know if that JVC model got the auto tone mapping update the NX line got as well? That seems to be the big separator.


JVC has better blacks. It depends what you watch. For HDR you could get a Panasonic UB420/820/9000 which is at least as good as the tone mapper on the Epson, and has a few streaming platforms. Not sure if you can connect another external box for more streaming options.

The room should also be treated. This applies to all projectors, but moreso with JVC:
https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/

The Epson is somewhat brighter. 

Personally I would go for the Epson because it has warranty. But JVC blacks are very nice. Not that Epson does not have nice blacks, but not JVC nice.




TSO2 said:


> EASY QUESTION -
> New 5050UB owner here - the first week we used the projector, i could have sworn that the fans ran for a bit after turning it fully off (which would be normal PJ behavior, in my experience). However, this past week i noticed that upon turning off the projector, the fans run maybe 3 seconds, then all goes silent. Is this normal?
> What do YOUR projectors do?
> Granted, our basement room is nice a cool, but...this is worrying.


Some projectors have a quick cool down mode. Check the manual/menu.



MannFan said:


> Wait, so if I have a freshly painted white wall that looks pretty good, am I going to gain much from a silver ticket or more affordable screen? Broad question I know but I'm not sure it's even worth the cost if I'm not going to get a Black Diamond screen or something which is way out of my budget. I'm in a bright room during the day but don't really use it then as I have an OLED close by. At night it's dark enough or I can just close my blinds and curtains which makes it pitch black.


Depends what kind of paint it is. I would say the screen does make a difference, but it may not be what you expect. You can get some samples to test out. If you can afford it, looks for more high end screens, some send samples as well.

See above facebook video for effect of not treated room.


----------



## noob00224

bullfrog23414 said:


> I have a ~3 week old 6050 projecting onto a 158" 2.35 screen and was wondering if any of you have paired your Epsons with the Panamorph Paladin A-lens. I see that they're on clearance right now. I have the the throw (1.7x) to handle it. I was just hoping for some "real world" comments on improvements and dealing with the "middle" ARs (2.0, 2.1 etc.). I spent quite a bit more on my HT than I had planned (as I'm sure is common) and I'm actually pretty happy with the PJ performance as it stands, so I'm trying to figure out if I should spend the extra few thousand on an A lens or just be happy with what I've got.


What specific screen?


----------



## bullfrog23414

noob00224 said:


> What specific screen?


The Silver Ticket AT screen (STR-235158-WAB)


----------



## noob00224

bullfrog23414 said:


> The Silver Ticket AT screen (STR-235158-WAB)


Why not spend the money on a Stewart ST 130 G4 or Neve since they both are just under 1.3 gain. That way you get the extra brightness for everything? You'll still have it if you switch projectors.

LE:

There's an AT version of the ST130, but the gain is still ~1.2 as far as I remember.


----------



## bullfrog23414

noob00224 said:


> Why not spend the money on a Stewart ST 130 G4 or Neve since they both are just under 1.3 gain. That way you get the extra brightness for everything? You'll still have it if you switch projectors.
> 
> LE:
> 
> There's an AT version of the ST130, but the gain is still ~1.2 as far as I remember.


While I appreciate the screen advice, regardless of the screen choice, I'm still wondering if anyone has experience using the Paladin with the Epson - with any screen. I don't see a ton of mentions in this thread except that the 6050 has the modes to utilize it.


----------



## biglen

telescopee0 said:


> Hey guys, I have found if I connect my devices to HDMI 1, the image quality is way better than HDMI 2. Why is that? HDMI 2 gives very bright color with very bad contrast. I have switched HDMI cables, but still face this problem with hdmi2. why is this happening? I'd it a defect?


I have the complete opposite. My HDMI 2 looks much better than HDMI 1. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

MannFan said:


> Wait, so if I have a freshly painted white wall that looks pretty good, am I going to gain much from a silver ticket or more affordable screen? Broad question I know but I'm not sure it's even worth the cost if I'm not going to get a Black Diamond screen or something which is way out of my budget. I'm in a bright room during the day but don't really use it then as I have an OLED close by. At night it's dark enough or I can just close my blinds and curtains which makes it pitch black.


When I was preparing my wall to do a painted screen, I primed the wall, so it was all white. I projected the 5050 onto the primed wall, and I thought it looked awesome. After painting the wall with the screen paint, and projecting the image on the wall, I was blown away at how much better it looked over the primed wall. So yes, a screen or screen paint, will give you a much better image, and definitely worth the investment. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## smile

My Anthem MRX310 can handle: _HDMI Port 1 on the 310 supports 4K 24hz only, it is not the same as the current gen receivers which support 4K 60hz with HDR 4:4:4 or 4:2:0._
_
_
I'm guessing I need a new AVR to take full advantage of my new 5050ub PJ, correct?
Thx


----------



## bullfrog23414

smile said:


> My Anthem MRX310 can handle: _HDMI Port 1 on the 310 supports 4K 24hz only, it is not the same as the current gen receivers which support 4K 60hz with HDR 4:4:4 or 4:2:0._
> _
> _
> I'm guessing I need a new AVR to take full advantage of my new 5050ub PJ, correct?
> Thx


Alternatively, you could pick up an HDMI Matrix like the Vertex2 and just use that to switch your video and run the audio only output to the Anthem. Plus, then you could do the LLDV hack.


----------



## martinstraka8282

noob00224 said:


> JVC has better blacks. It depends what you watch. For HDR you could get a Panasonic UB420/820/9000 which is at least as good as the tone mapper on the Epson, and has a few streaming platforms. Not sure if you can connect another external box for more streaming options.
> 
> The room should also be treated. This applies to all projectors, but moreso with JVC:
> https://www.facebook.com/projectiondream/videos/1692721894385217/
> 
> The Epson is somewhat brighter.
> 
> Personally I would go for the Epson because it has warranty. But JVC blacks are very nice. Not that Epson does not have nice blacks, but not JVC nice.


Yes, definitely the better blacks as well.

That's an option I hadn't really considered since I was planning to use the PS5 as my catch all entry level UHD player, like I did with PS3 until I bought an Oppo, but I imagine the PS5 won't have HDR auto tone mapping at launch.

Is the tone mapping an automatic thing on the Panasonic players or a manual adjustment?

Do games need similar adjustments or is it not as important with gaming? What about streaming?

The whole manual adjustment part I can't seem to get over enough to pull the trigger right now and has me leaning to the NX5 for its auto tone mapping, but it's a significantly higher price, almost prohibitively so with my budget. I know I don't want to be adjusting things regularly from movie to movie or game to game though. That just sounds like something I'm going to regret, especially knowing auto tone mapping features are likely going to become more of a standard on new models going forward.


----------



## Azekecse

martinstraka8282 said:


> Yes, definitely the better blacks as well.
> 
> That's an option I hadn't really considered since I was planning to use the PS5 as my catch all entry level UHD player, like I did with PS3 until I bought an Oppo, but I imagine the PS5 won't have HDR auto tone mapping at launch.
> 
> Is the tone mapping an automatic thing on the Panasonic players or a manual adjustment?
> 
> Do games need similar adjustments or is it not as important with gaming? What about streaming?
> 
> The whole manual adjustment part I can't seem to get over enough to pull the trigger right now and has me leaning to the NX5 for its auto tone mapping, but it's a significantly higher price, almost prohibitively so with my budget. I know I don't want to be adjusting things regularly from movie to movie or game to game though. That just sounds like something I'm going to regret, especially knowing auto tone mapping features are likely going to become more of a standard on new models going forward.


I previously owned the Epson 6040UB and yes it was a bright PJ, however I found myself constantly adjusting the settings, depending on the media being played. JVC NX with DTM is a game changer with this s/w. You can always get an Epson and Panni with HD optimizer, but if you have a light-controlled room and a not so large screen, the JVC is worth the extra $$$, IMHO.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## jaredmwright

martinstraka8282 said:


> Yes, definitely the better blacks as well.
> 
> 
> 
> That's an option I hadn't really considered since I was planning to use the PS5 as my catch all entry level UHD player, like I did with PS3 until I bought an Oppo, but I imagine the PS5 won't have HDR auto tone mapping at launch.
> 
> 
> 
> Is the tone mapping an automatic thing on the Panasonic players or a manual adjustment?
> 
> 
> 
> Do games need similar adjustments or is it not as important with gaming? What about streaming?
> 
> 
> 
> The whole manual adjustment part I can't seem to get over enough to pull the trigger right now and has me leaning to the NX5 for its auto tone mapping, but it's a significantly higher price, almost prohibitively so with my budget. I know I don't want to be adjusting things regularly from movie to movie or game to game though. That just sounds like something I'm going to regret, especially knowing auto tone mapping features are likely going to become more of a standard on new models going forward.


I have the 6050ub and no NX5 experience, but what I can tell you is that in a light treated controlled room with the latest firmware that was recently released by Epson, I have zero regrets. Before the firmware update the HDR wasn't great and I was frustrated. Since the change it is like a new projector, brighter, more consistent and on the level I expected and hoped originally for HDR. I would be interested to see an updated comparison to the NX5 with the latest firmware, my guess is the gap has closed even more. I realize blacks will always be superior on the NX5 and better contrast with DTM, but where the 6050ub is now I can't see justifying spending more when the picture is so good after calibration. I also do some gaming on my Shield such as Fortnight and others and the experience is awesome.

I project onto a 175" 16x9 screen from about 19' away.

Good luck!

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## martinstraka8282

Azekecse said:


> I previously owned the Epson 6040UB and yes it was a bright PJ, however I found myself constantly adjusting the settings, depending on the media being played. JVC NX with DTM is a game changer with this s/w. You can always get an Epson and Panni with HD optimizer, but if you have a light-controlled room and a not so large screen, the JVC is worth the extra $$$, IMHO.
> 
> Peace and blessings,
> 
> Azeke


Thanks. That sounds about right. I would expect the JVC to outperform and it really has been at the front of the line for me up to this point.


jaredmwright said:


> I have the 6050ub and no NX5 experience, but what I can tell you is that in a light treated controlled room with the latest firmware that was recently released by Epson, I have zero regrets. Before the firmware update the HDR wasn't great and I was frustrated. Since the change it is like a new projector, brighter, more consistent and on the level I expected and hoped originally for HDR. I would be interested to see an updated comparison to the NX5 with the latest firmware, my guess is the gap has closed even more. I realize blacks will always be superior on the NX5 and better contrast with DTM, but where the 6050ub is now I can't see justifying spending more when the picture is so good after calibration. I also do some gaming on my Shield such as Fortnight and others and the experience is awesome.
> 
> I project onto a 175" 16x9 screen from about 19' away.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


A new firmware? How recent are we talking? I found 1.03 on their website, but no notes as to the changes or a date of release.

I really appreciate your feedback and the sacrifices sound similar to when I bought my Epson 8500 over a much more expensive JVC model about 10 years ago. I can live with those for significant savings, and don't mind the non native 4k, but HDR is a must and all this manual adjustment discussion really made me worry I would regret it. In the end I would just stop doing it out of laziness and the image would suffer if you're expected to make adjustments constantly.

To be clear, the scenario I want nothing to do with is adjusting picture & HDR settings from movie to movie or game to game, etc. I don't mind fiddling once in a while and saving profiles for specific purposes and devices that are loaded when changing inputs, but tinkering each time I load a different movie or game? No thanks, I need a little more of a set it and forget it.

Are you saying the Epson received a similar update as the JVC NX line with an auto tone mapping function via this new firmware?


----------



## jaredmwright

martinstraka8282 said:


> Thanks. That sounds about right. I would expect the JVC to outperform and it really has been at the front of the line for me up to this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A new firmware? How recent are we talking? I found 1.03 on their website, but no notes as to the changes or a date of release.
> 
> 
> 
> I really appreciate your feedback and the sacrifices sound similar to when I bought my Epson 8500 over a much more expensive JVC model about 10 years ago. I can live with those for significant savings, and don't mind the non native 4k, but HDR is a must and all this manual adjustment discussion really made me worry I would regret it. In the end I would just stop doing it out of laziness and the image would suffer if you're expected to make adjustments constantly.
> 
> 
> 
> To be clear, the scenario I want nothing to do with is adjusting picture & HDR settings from movie to movie or game to game, etc. I don't mind fiddling once in a while and saving profiles for specific purposes and devices that are loaded when changing inputs, but tinkering each time I load a different movie or game? No thanks, I need a little more of a set it and forget it.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you saying the Epson received a similar update as the JVC NX line with an auto tone mapping function via this new firmware?


No, it is not automatic like the JVC, but in my experience I can now leave it on my preferred HDR setting for content without issue and I do not feel that I need to change it to get the proper picture. 

I also don't think 4K native vs faux is important at all unless you need to sit extremely close to the screen where you can visibly pixel peep otherwise our eyes can't tell the difference from a normal seating position.




Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## martinstraka8282

jaredmwright said:


> No, it is not automatic like the JVC, but in my experience I can now leave it on my preferred HDR setting for content without issue and I do not feel that I need to change it to get the proper picture.
> 
> I also don't think 4K native vs faux is important at all unless you need to sit extremely close to he screen where you can vivibly pixel peep otherwise our eyes can't tell the difference from a normal seating position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


Thanks. Well that doesn't sound too bad then. Maybe I'm putting too much stock in some of the comments I've read while researching. Some user's were talking about how they felt they had to adjust it just loading up a different movie, and even sometimes adjusting within the same movie... when I read that, I couldn't help but think that's absurd and something I want no part of.

I would just want to set up a settings profile for HDR gaming, a settings profile for UHD movies, and a setting for regular content and leave it at that beyond minor tinkering periodically.


----------



## jaredmwright

martinstraka8282 said:


> Thanks. Well that doesn't sound too bad then. Maybe I'm putting too much stock in some of the comments I've read while researching. Some user's were talking about how they felt they had to adjust it just loading up a different movie, and even sometimes adjusting within the same movie... when I read that, I couldn't help but think that's absurd and something I want no part of.
> 
> 
> 
> I would just want to set up a settings profile for HDR gaming, a settings profile for UHD movies, and a setting for regular content and leave it at that beyond minor tinkering periodically.


I totally understand and that has not been my experience since the 1.0.3 firmware. Before it was more common to adjust the HDR slider for the right look.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## martinstraka8282

jaredmwright said:


> I totally understand and that has not been my experience since the 1.0.3 firmware. Before it was more common to adjust the HDR slider for the right look.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


Cool, thanks again. Is it essentially just one slider related to HDR?


----------



## jaredmwright

martinstraka8282 said:


> Cool, thanks again. Is it essentially just one slider related to HDR?


Yes very easy to adjust and you could even create a macro or remote sequence for preferred options if desired. I haven't found the need.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


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## kensingtonwick

Would any owners recommend this projector for a living room with some mild ambient light paired with a 120” 1.4 ALR screen. In a review I’ve seen it top out at 3400 lumens in dynamic mode and 2300 lumens in either bright cinema or natural. I have an Epson 3800 which I love but feel the 6050 has a little sharper of an image coupled with even better blacks. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, I think the UB models have REC 2020 or DCI-P3 color space and the 3800 doesn’t. Is this correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

kensingtonwick said:


> Would any owners recommend this projector for a living room with some mild ambient light paired with a 120” 1.4 ALR screen. In a review I’ve seen it top out at 3400 lumens in dynamic mode and 2300 lumens in either bright cinema or natural. I have an Epson 3800 which I love but feel the 6050 has a little sharper of an image coupled with even better blacks. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, I think the UB models have REC 2020 or DCI-P3 color space and the 3800 doesn’t. Is this correct?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The 5040UB review from PC is not accurate for most 5040 series. The 5050UB review says it's ~2300 Dynamic in High lamp. Regular presets like Bright Cinema or Natural can do ~2000 lumens in High lamp, 1400-1300 in Medium and Eco.
3800 can do ~3000 Dynamic with High lamp, ~2200 in regular presets and High lamp, ~2000 in Medium and ~1600 in Eco.
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-3800-Projector-Review.htm

HC3800 can cover ~71-75% of DCI P3, 5050UB can cover ~85-87% and 100% or over with the filter. Filter takes out 50% of it's brightness. The filter is with the Cinema and Digital Cinema presets.

The 5050UB has better blacks IF there is NO ambient light.

The 6050UB is more expensive. It's got an extra lamp, mount, black case better lenses and 20% better contrast, at least from the specifications. 

UB series is quieter. High lamp on the 3800 should be about the same as Medium on the 5050.

UB series is sharper. 

Even a projector like the HC4010 which has the same contrast as the 3800 but shares the chassis/parts with the 5050 looks better.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...0-epson-5050ub-non-light-controlled-room.html


----------



## sddawson

Can anyone tell me which Disney/Pixar discs have the 3D Maximizer? I have Monsters University, but that only has the 2D Maximizer on it. I’d happily go out and buy a new disc just for the Maximizer, since I’ve read it’s really useful. Thanks.


----------



## cky2354

sddawson said:


> Can anyone tell me which Disney/Pixar discs have the 3D Maximizer? I have Monsters University, but that only has the 2D Maximizer on it. I’d happily go out and buy a new disc just for the Maximizer, since I’ve read it’s really useful. Thanks.


Incredibles 2 3D blu-ray has that... just watched it and try to use it last night as well but did run into some issues. I believe Coco 3D blu-ray has it too.


----------



## sddawson

cky2354 said:


> Incredibles 2 3D blu-ray has that... just watched it and try to use it last night as well but did run into some issues. I believe Coco 3D blu-ray has it too.


Great - thanks for that. What sort of issues did you run into?


----------



## cky2354

sddawson said:


> Great - thanks for that. What sort of issues did you run into?


Well... I was trying to set the brightness and contrast to what it was telling me but I couldn't see what I needed to do since the example and what was shown was different. I might try a different maximizer like the one in Coco tonight to see if I can set it instead.


----------



## sddawson

cky2354 said:


> Well... I was trying to set the brightness and contrast to what it was telling me but I couldn't see what I needed to do since the example and what was shown was different. I might try a different maximizer like the one in Coco tonight to see if I can set it instead.


I don’t know if it’s the same as the 2D maximizer, but the black and white ramps in the examples are quite a bit inside the black and white bands on the screen. Maybe try changing contrast and brightness to their extremes and see if you can see them. 

Please do post back with the results using Coco.


----------



## kensingtonwick

noob00224 said:


> The 5040UB review from PC is not accurate for most 5040 series. The 5050UB review says it's ~2300 Dynamic in High lamp. Regular presets like Bright Cinema or Natural can do ~2000 lumens in High lamp, 1400-1300 in Medium and Eco.
> 3800 can do ~3000 Dynamic with High lamp, ~2200 in regular presets and High lamp, ~2000 in Medium and ~1600 in Eco.
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UBe-Review.htm
> https://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home-Cinema-3800-Projector-Review.htm
> 
> HC3800 can cover ~71-75% of DCI P3, 5050UB can cover ~85-87% and 100% or over with the filter. Filter takes out 50% of it's brightness. The filter is with the Cinema and Digital Cinema presets.
> 
> The 5050UB has better blacks IF there is NO ambient light.
> 
> The 6050UB is more expensive. It's got an extra lamp, mount, black case better lenses and 20% better contrast, at least from the specifications.
> 
> UB series is quieter. High lamp on the 3800 should be about the same as Medium on the 5050.
> 
> UB series is sharper.
> 
> Even a projector like the HC4010 which has the same contrast as the 3800 but shares the chassis/parts with the 5050 looks better.
> 
> https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-d...0-epson-5050ub-non-light-controlled-room.html



It must be hit and miss but the review on projectorreviews.com got very high results for both the 5050 and 6050.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## noob00224

kensingtonwick said:


> It must be hit and miss but the review on projectorreviews.com got very high results for both the 5050 and 6050.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Personally I don't trust projectorreviews that much. Projector's central review is on point.


----------



## vestaviascott

I just picked up a 5040ub from Facebook Marketplace advertised as needing a new lamp. However, when I power it up to observe the light patterns, according to the online manual the Status turns out to be:



> Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help


When I first turn it on, the power light is steady blue and the status light is blinking blue. Then after a bit, the power light goes off, the status light continues blinking blue and the lamp light is blinking orange (my guess is that's why the owner said it needs a lamp replacement)

I've already ordered a new lamp thinking that to be the problem, but according to that blink code, I'm not sure. Anyone have this issue and what are the possible causes?


----------



## vestaviascott

More on post above: The person I bought from is a low voltage installer, who also does some home entertainment installs (a very small part of his business). He installed this projector in a client home a few years ago. He said when the projector stopped working recently (presumably just needing a bulb replacement), the owner, rather than replacing the bulb, just wanted a newer projector, so he took the projector and put it on FBM and now I'm the new owner of what may be a bricked Epson, lucky me!


----------



## kensingtonwick

noob00224 said:


> Personally I don't trust projectorreviews that much. Projector's central review is on point.



Do you think personally that the 6050 would work okay with some ambient light during day time? Ultimately I want it for lights off viewing during the night time but do you think it’s worth spending that much more? 3800 looks really awesome to me already.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

vestaviascott said:


> I just picked up a 5040ub from Facebook Marketplace advertised as needing a new lamp. However, when I power it up to observe the light patterns, according to the online manual the Status turns out to be:
> 
> 
> 
> When I first turn it on, the power light is steady blue and the status light is blinking blue. Then after a bit, the power light goes off, the status light continues blinking blue and the lamp light is blinking orange (my guess is that's why the owner said it needs a lamp replacement)
> 
> I've already ordered a new lamp thinking that to be the problem, but according to that blink code, I'm not sure. Anyone have this issue and what are the possible causes?



According to the manual for my 5050, flashing Blue and Orange lights could mean:

 A fan or sensor has a problem; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help.
Auto Iris or Cinema Filter error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help
Power error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help
Replace the lamp soon to avoid damage; do not continue using the projector
Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help
If you haven't already done so, check the filter to see if it's clean.The projector might be overheating as a result.Also,if it's a power issue, check to be sure that you're not overloading the circuit the projector is plugged into. Normally, if that's the case I would expect the circuit breaker to trip.
I've found Epson Support to be quite helpful and responsive for the few issues I've had. I was able to resolve any problem via email and/or phone.


----------



## noob00224

kensingtonwick said:


> Do you think personally that the 6050 would work okay with some ambient light during day time? Ultimately I want it for lights off viewing during the night time but do you think it’s worth spending that much more? 3800 looks really awesome to me already.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I already explained the difference between the 5050 and 6050, as well as posted a link where someone was asking if it's worth upgrading from a 3800 to 5050.


----------



## pags06

*Experiences with flashing blue/orange and HDR/SDR issues*

Hi, avid reader of this forum as a relatively new owner of the 5050 (Jan ’20) after 8(!) years with a 5010 whose optical block was starting to go. I’m not a hardcore HT enthusiast but really appreciate all the discussion on calibration settings, extended length HDMI cables (I went with the RUIPro 33’), etc. Just thought I’d share a couple of experiences/observations in case helpful for others:

1) In the first month, I had the projector shut down on its own twice and give me the flashing blue and orange lights, which sounds like it’s affected others here as well. The one and only thing I changed was to swap out the two-prong power cord that the installer had used instead of the three-prong one that came with the unit (he had wanted to hide the cord in the ceiling so was using an extension cord with a two-prong receptacle); the way he installed it also required significant keystone adjustments, both of which are reasons why he won’t be coming back (as an aside, Miami is a really tough place to find reliable home theater installers so if any of you have recommendations, I’d be willing to give them a shot). Since I swapped out the power cable in February, it hasn’t shut down once. So maybe the power supply is a factor?

2) I’ve seen a number of posts about challenges consistently getting HDR from device to the 5050; some of these appear to be HDMI-related, others perhaps certain settings on the source content device. I’ve run into this issue on numerous occasions; when it’s happened to me, it appears to occur across all source types (Sony x800, PS4 Pro, Apple TV 4k). However, when I bypass my AVR (Costco Yamaha 7850) by connecting the 5050 to the device directly via the RuiPro HDMI, it immediately switches back to HDR, which isn’t practical obviously because there’s no sound but has been helpful in identifying the receiver as the issue. But even more interesting is that I appear to have identified a solve that has worked every time I’ve done it (on 5+ occasions); if the projector is showing SDR in the Info screen when it should be HDR, I simply shut off the receiver, which enables the video passthrough and immediately switches to HDR. When I turn the receiver on again, the HDR sticks and I don’t have the issue again for a while (maybe once every 2-3 weeks or so).

In any case, not sure if there may be other causes for these two issues, just offering my experience here in case it works for others. Thanks!


----------



## vestaviascott

fredworld said:


> According to the manual for my 5050, flashing Blue and Orange lights could mean:
> 
> A fan or sensor has a problem; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help.
> Auto Iris or Cinema Filter error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help
> Power error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help
> Replace the lamp soon to avoid damage; do not continue using the projector
> Internal projector error; turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help
> If you haven't already done so, check the filter to see if it's clean.The projector might be overheating as a result.Also,if it's a power issue, check to be sure that you're not overloading the circuit the projector is plugged into. Normally, if that's the case I would expect the circuit breaker to trip.
> I've found Epson Support to be quite helpful and responsive for the few issues I've had. I was able to resolve any problem via email and/or phone.


Thanks! Mine is actually a 5040ub but I suspect they are very similar but for the silicon? I tried to delete my original post and post it to that thread instead but it must have got swapped somehow.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Grayson73 said:


> Which of these are you guys running:
> 4k30 4:4:4
> 4k60 4:2:0
> 
> With the HDFury linker, do you pick one of the above and leave it at that for all sources?


Are you perhaps in the wrong thread (looking for information on the 5040ub)?

Very few would be using an HDFury Linker in the video chain with a 5050/6050ub (unless they are trying to send Dolby Vision... LLDV). 

- Jason


----------



## Grayson73

DaGamePimp said:


> Are you perhaps in the wrong thread (looking for information on the 5040ub)?
> 
> Very few would be using an HDFury Linker in the video chain with a 5050/6050ub (unless they are trying to send Dolby Vision... LLDV).
> 
> - Jason


Yes, I thought I deleted the message, but I guess I didn't do it right.


----------



## kensingtonwick

noob00224 said:


> I already explained the difference between the 5050 and 6050, as well as posted a link where someone was asking if it's worth upgrading from a 3800 to 5050.



Well it’s pretty clear that the 5050 was the choice but now I’m thinking that for an extra $3000 CDN (6050ub) to attain slightly more sharpness, better blacks (in a dark room) and slightly wider color gamut’s cannot be justified. I am more than satisfied with the 3800 anyways. Thank you for all your helpful information noob. I appreciate it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## noob00224

kensingtonwick said:


> Well it’s pretty clear that the 5050 was the choice but now I’m thinking that for an extra $3000 CDN (6050ub) to attain slightly more sharpness, better blacks (in a dark room) and slightly wider color gamut’s cannot be justified. I am more than satisfied with the 3800 anyways. Thank you for all your helpful information noob. I appreciate it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's subjective. Maybe you can see it live. Not sure what the status of the lockdown is in your area. $3000 CDN is a lot of money.


----------



## kensingtonwick

noob00224 said:


> It's subjective. Maybe you can see it live. Not sure what the status of the lockdown is in your area. $3000 CDN is a lot of money.



Yes. I paid just under 2k w/tax for my 3800. The 6050 is on sale for 4500.00 and w/tax would be close to 4800 so we’ll say 2800 extra.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## noob00224

kensingtonwick said:


> Yes. I paid just under 2k w/tax for my 3800. The 6050 is on sale for 4500.00 and w/tax would be close to 4800 so we’ll say 2800 extra.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Why not the 5050 or a refurbished 5040? Much cheaper.
The latter has 10GB HDMI which I previously linked.


----------



## kensingtonwick

noob00224 said:


> Why not the 5050 or a refurbished 5040? Much cheaper.
> The latter has 10GB HDMI which I previously linked.



Well it could be on a unit to unit basis but dream home media did a comparison between the 5050 and the 6050 and you could see slightly better contrast on the 6050. The 5040 only has 1.4 HDMI I think so that wasn’t an option plus I wanted the extra 200 lumens.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## LDBaha

Hello Epson people! You guys seem reasonable value buyers so I wanted to ask.

I made an order for a JVC x790R but it's backordered so it'll take 1 month. If I go with a 5050ub then I could have it in two days. 
The main reason I went for a JVC is because I am swapping my OLED for a Projector (never had a projector before) - I just figured I have a very tiny dedicated room and would benefit from more of a cinema like experience with a projector. 

The only issue I have with the Epson is the contrast and the main issue I have with the JVC is that I can't have it yet and it's more expensive

What do you guys think? 

PS: if this discussion is not allowed in this thread then ignore my post


----------



## noob00224

LDBaha said:


> Hello Epson people! You guys seem reasonable value buyers so I wanted to ask.
> 
> I made an order for a JVC x790R but it's backordered so it'll take 1 month. If I go with a 5050ub then I could have it in two days.
> The main reason I went for a JVC is because I am swapping my OLED for a Projector (never had a projector before) - I just figured I have a very tiny dedicated room and would benefit from more of a cinema like experience with a projector.
> 
> The only issue I have with the Epson is the contrast and the main issue I have with the JVC is that I can't have it yet and it's more expensive
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> PS: if this discussion is not allowed in this thread then ignore my post


It depends what you want. If it's great blacks, then JVC is the only option.


----------



## LDBaha

noob00224 said:


> It depends what you want. If it's great blacks, then JVC is the only option.


Honestly I will say that great blacks is what attracted me to OLED in the first place - so I would say that contrast is very important to me.

However I am sitting at 9' - with a 110" scope screen in a dark room. My throw isn't too much at 11'9 or so. 

According to some you can get JVC black levels with the right paint (Silver Fire) using the 5050ub but what are you giving up in exchange?


----------



## TSO2

Yet another (blessedly brief) settings question. My apologies - I'm limited to my phone for accessing the forum for a while and the search feature on mobile is useless, lol.
I have a new 5050ub and a Panasonic ub420 - the questions -

on the 420 - RGB or YCbCr?
4k/60p (4:4:4), or...?
deep color output 12 or 10 bit priority?
basic projector luminance or...?


on 5050ub - video range auto, limited or full?
edid expanded or ?
I bet someone could whip these answers out easily. OR, point me to relevant discussion or setting info.

I'm still getting the hang of the whole HDR debacle. Everything in my signal chain seems to be performing and reading as it should (also use a Denon x4500 AVR), but I'm a little underwhelmed at the applications of HDR, and I'm not sure I'm "doing it right" yet.

Any tips or previously discovered tricks would be appreciated! I'm making my way through the entire thread...on my iPhone, ugh. Family is getting restless with my constant tweaking and experimenting.


----------



## noob00224

LDBaha said:


> Honestly I will say that great blacks is what attracted me to OLED in the first place - so I would say that contrast is very important to me.
> 
> However I am sitting at 9' - with a 110" scope screen in a dark room. My throw isn't too much at 11'9 or so.
> 
> According to some you can get JVC black levels with the right paint (Silver Fire) using the 5050ub but what are you giving up in exchange?


Not sure if you can get JVC level of black level with SF and a 5050. Ask @MississippiMan about it.

But if that were possible you would not be loosing anything going from JVC to Epson.



TSO2 said:


> Yet another (blessedly brief) settings question. My apologies - I'm limited to my phone for accessing the forum for a while and the search feature on mobile is useless, lol.
> I have a new 5050ub and a Panasonic ub420 - the questions -
> 
> on the 420 - RGB or YCbCr?
> 4k/60p (4:4:4), or...?
> deep color output 12 or 10 bit priority?
> basic projector luminance or...?
> 
> 
> on 5050ub - video range auto, limited or full?
> edid expanded or ?
> I bet someone could whip these answers out easily. OR, point me to relevant discussion or setting info.
> 
> I'm still getting the hang of the whole HDR debacle. Everything in my signal chain seems to be performing and reading as it should (also use a Denon x4500 AVR), but I'm a little underwhelmed at the applications of HDR, and I'm not sure I'm "doing it right" yet.
> 
> Any tips or previously discovered tricks would be appreciated! I'm making my way through the entire thread...on my iPhone, ugh. Family is getting restless with my constant tweaking and experimenting.


If you can't find the answer here check this thread:








Panasonic DP-UB420 4K HDR10+ (non-Dolby Vision) Blu-ray...


If you change the ‘soundtrack’ from the menu of the payer you should find an audio format ‘audible’. For some of my mkv files though not even a format is accepted by the player. So it’s a lottery...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## laoping

Hey all.. sorry if this has been asked before.. but I can't figure out how to search in the new forums yet.. Just got the 5050.. Wondering what a good ceiling mount might be.. low profile is best.


----------



## brettpjames57

I got this for my 5050 that was delivered 2 hours ago: Chief RPMAU Elite Universal projector mount at Crutchfield
There is a cheaper version with a plate just for the epsons but i figured i'd pay a little more for the universal bracket.


----------



## TSO2

laoping said:


> Hey all.. sorry if this has been asked before.. but I can't figure out how to search in the new forums yet.. Just got the 5050.. Wondering what a good ceiling mount might be.. low profile is best.


HOw much do you want to spend? The chief mounts are excellent and pricey. I used this mount, which had held up my BenQ W7000 for five years, and it does great - 





Amazon.com: QualGear PRB-717-Blk Universal Ceiling Mount Projector Accessory,Black Mount: Electronics


Buy QualGear PRB-717-Blk Universal Ceiling Mount Projector Accessory, Black Mount: Projector Mounts - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## MississippiMan

laoping said:


> Hey all.. sorry if this has been asked before.. but I can't figure out how to search in the new forums yet.. Just got the 5050.. Wondering what a good ceiling mount might be.. low profile is best.


You absolutely want the Chief 357 RPMA Elite "Dedicated" Mount, combined with a Peerless ACC570 Ceiling Plate
You can save a bit by opting for the Chief 357 RPMA, as that mount uses only multiple Screw adjustments instead of the two Knob adjustments of the Elite...and of the mounts mentioned in this Post it has the lowest profile of all

Shoot me a PM and I will direct you to the source where you can get the best pricing on "any" of the Chief Mounts.



brettpjames57 said:


> I got this for my 5050 that was delivered 2 hours ago: Chief RPMAU Elite Universal projector mount at Crutchfield
> There is a cheaper version with a plate just for the epsons but i figured i'd pay a little more for the universal bracket.


I do not suggest the Cheif "Universal", especially at that listed price...and really, how could you prefer a Universal version over one that has a "Projector dedicated" stamped Metal Plate??? I can state from experience that the adjustable Arms of the Universal are not suitable for the 5050/6050 units, as the Legs must extend out too far to be able to hold the Projector up evenly in every direction. There is simply too much weight placed upon them.

Also...you paid almost $40.00 too much for that Mount purchasing it as you did from Crutchfield.


TSO2 said:


> HOw much do you want to spend? The chief mounts are excellent and pricey. I used this mount, which had held up my BenQ W7000 for five years, and it does great -


OMG.....I'm sorry but the mount above is not even in a respectable category...it's adjustment factor is terrible, and the method of mounting to the Ceiling wholly unacceptable. It's a solution for diminutive projectors whose cost is so low that purchasing el'cheapo mounts are the only sensible choice. Granted, the w7000 ain't a cheap projector, but it is MUCH smaller than the 5050, and fully 10lbs lighter.


----------



## MississippiMan

LDBaha said:


> Honestly I will say that great blacks is what attracted me to OLED in the first place - so I would say that contrast is very important to me.
> 
> However I am sitting at 9' - with a 110" scope screen in a dark room. My throw isn't too much at 11'9 or so.
> 
> According to some you can get JVC black levels with the right paint (Silver Fire) using the 5050ub but what are you giving up in exchange?


Not much...except a considerable more amount of cash as well as Lumen output if you choose the JVC.

Both are exceptional Projectors. Both employ excellent Pixel Shifted 4K. The JVC certainly has the smoothest image due to having LyCos Panels, it does hold the advantage in Native Contrast, and at your Screen size, sharpness certainly will never be at issue.

But...the real "Most Bang For The Buck" choice easily goes to the 5050.

The Silver Fire / Black Flame paints are expressly designed to deepen Black Levels without Colors or White being detrimentally affected. And the degree of "Black assist" is completely adjustable...and again, at your screen size even more so.

In the end, the reproduction of Blacks in both projectors is so good, when SF/BF is in play, you would not be able to ascertain enough difference to notice. The 5050's lumen level performance combined with SF/BF and a smaller screen size is what will bring the hopeful expectation of OLED-quality performance into play.


----------



## Jason Goffard

Hi, 
I just got my 5050 this afternoon and have a question. My wife and I watched an episode of Jack Ryan and the picture and performance of the projector was great. Later my son was playing fort nite on the Xbox one x. The projector shut off completely on him twice. First time was about 15 minutes in, 2nd time was about 30 minutes. It’s connecting to an Onkyo nr636 receiver via a 75 foot mavis link fiber HDMI cable And mono price 5 foot 4 k cable from the receiver to Xbox. Wondering if anyone has seen this or if I have a problem projector. I’ll have some time this weekend to play around with it myself but was curious if there’s anything I should look for. 

he did see when it shut down it powered off completely, no lights on the projector.


----------



## rustolemite

So need some input on room color. Right now all my walls are a dark green but ceiling is white and I have 2 doors that are forward of the screen and they are also white. 
So all this is just to much reflection back on the screen, I would get an ALR screen but not many choices that are also AT as well.
So next choice is repaint the room, all Black is kinda too much since this is in the living room. 
So what is the next color ya'll would suggest if I can't do Black? 

Thanks.


----------



## MississippiMan

rustolemite said:


> So need some input on room color. Right now all my walls are a dark green but ceiling is white and I have 2 doors that are forward of the screen and they are also white.
> So all this is just to much reflection back on the screen, I would get an ALR screen but not many choices that are also AT as well.
> So next choice is repaint the room, all Black is kinda too much since this is in the living room.
> So what is the next color ya'll would suggest if I can't do Black?
> 
> Thanks.


A Dark Grey in Matte for the Ceiling, with matching Grey for the Woodwork....only the latter in a Satin Oil Base for durability.

Grey and Green are both cool colors, and in most cases compliment each other, I would try the Combination suggested first, with the Grey at least this Dark...







...

If you don't like that combo, then simply choose a complimenting slightly lighter Grey for the Walls. The existing dark Green will serve as a great undercoat.

Black is IMO somewhere between ugly and hedious, and only poplular because so many think it's the only viable choice for maximum suppression of reflections.


----------



## sddawson

Jason Goffard said:


> Hi,
> I just got my 5050 this afternoon and have a question. My wife and I watched an episode of Jack Ryan and the picture and performance of the projector was great. Later my son was playing fort nite on the Xbox one x. The projector shut off completely on him twice. First time was about 15 minutes in, 2nd time was about 30 minutes. It’s connecting to an Onkyo nr636 receiver via a 75 foot mavis link fiber HDMI cable And mono price 5 foot 4 k cable from the receiver to Xbox. Wondering if anyone has seen this or if I have a problem projector. I’ll have some time this weekend to play around with it myself but was curious if there’s anything I should look for.
> 
> he did see when it shut down it powered off completely, no lights on the projector.


Could be a CEC issue. Some piece of equipment is going into standby and sending a power off command everywhere. Try turning off CEC on every single piece of equipment you have.


----------



## DaGamePimp

MississippiMan said:


> *I do not suggest the Cheif "Universal", especially at that listed price...and really, how could you prefer a Universal version over one that has a "Projector dedicated" stamped Metal Plate??? I can state from experience that the adjustable Arms of the Universal are not suitable for the 5050/6050 units, as the Legs must extend out too far to be able to hold the Projector up evenly in every direction. There is simply too much weight placed upon them.*


While I agree that the directly drilled plate is the best solution for any projector the Chief Universal works without issue on the 5050ub and I was able to get a brand new complete kit off ebay for $60. I already had a complete Chief mount on the ceiling from my JVC so I just used the Universal part of the kit on my current mounting bracket. I was skeptical of the mounting method used by the Universal bracket (the way the mounts clip in) so I hung some weights off the arms before mounting the 5050ub and it held 60 pounds without issue (I tried to wiggle it and it was still solid with the weights on it). I did make sure to install all of the security bolts into the mounting arms as added protection since they appear to prevent the bolt locations from moving. I did have to use pliers to squeeze the end caps on the arms (will make more sense to those that have the Universal mount) as these simply could not be moved by hand (as shown in their install video). I have the arms spaced so well balanced that even if the level bolts are loose the 5050ub hangs almost perfectly level on it's own (something my JVC did not do with the direct drilled bracket). I am mounted to the farthest mounting locations at each corner (of the 8).

Again I am not saying that the Universal is better than the direct bracket but it absolutely does work (and well, at least from my experience). 

- Jason


----------



## LDBaha

MississippiMan said:


> Not much...except a considerable more amount of cash as well as Lumen output if you choose the JVC.
> 
> Both are exceptional Projectors. Both employ excellent Pixel Shifted 4K. The JVC certainly has the smoothest image due to having LyCos Panels, it does hold the advantage in Native Contrast, and at your Screen size, sharpness certainly will never be at issue.
> 
> But...the real "Most Bang For The Buck" choice easily goes to the 5050.
> 
> The Silver Fire / Black Flame paints are expressly designed to deepen Black Levels without Colors or White being detrimentally affected. And the degree of "Black assist" is completely adjustable...and again, at your screen size even more so.
> 
> In the end, the reproduction of Blacks in both projectors is so good, when SF/BF is in play, you would not be able to ascertain enough difference to notice. The 5050's lumen level performance combined with SF/BF and a smaller screen size is what will bring the hopeful expectation of OLED-quality performance into play.


Alright. I am sold on this.
I have cancelled my backorder for the JVC - saving that cash for something else and ordered a 5050ub that should be here in less than a week.

If I can accomplish what you said then I should be very happy.
@MississippiMan I sent you a private message regarding Black Flame.

Can some 5050ub owner comment on the pixel grid at like 8-9' distance? Is it visible? That's the only thing that concerns me about this projector


----------



## rustolemite

MississippiMan said:


> A Dark Grey in Matte for the Ceiling, with matching Grey for the Woodwork....only the latter in a Satin Oil Base for durability.
> 
> Grey and Green are both cool colors, and in most cases compliment each other, I would try the Combination suggested first, with the Grey at least this Dark...
> View attachment 3023864
> ...
> 
> If you don't like that combo, then simply choose a complimenting slightly lighter Grey for the Walls. The existing dark Green will serve as a great undercoat.
> 
> Black is IMO somewhere between ugly and hedious, and only poplular because so many think it's the only viable choice for maximum suppression of reflections.


Thanks will check this out.


----------



## noob00224

LDBaha said:


> Alright. I am sold on this.
> I have cancelled my backorder for the JVC - saving that cash for something else and ordered a 5050ub that should be here in less than a week.
> 
> If I can accomplish what you said then I should be very happy.
> @MississippiMan I sent you a private message regarding Black Flame.
> 
> Can some 5050ub owner comment on the pixel grid at like 8-9' distance? Is it visible? That's the only thing that concerns me about this projector


This very issue has been discussed a few pages back. But the answer is no, for a "regular size" screen.


----------



## TSO2

MississippiMan said:


> OMG.....I'm sorry but the mount above is not even in a respectable category...it's adjustment factor is terrible, and the method of mounting to the Ceiling wholly unacceptable. It's a solution for diminutive projectors whose cost is so low that purchasing el'cheapo mounts are the only sensible choice. Granted, the w7000 ain't a cheap projector, but it is MUCH smaller than the 5050, and fully 10lbs lighter.


OMG...It's holding up my 5050ub great. And several projectors at work that weigh more, for the last several years. We also have the Chief at work, on about five projectors. That's why I bought the one I bought.
Lol


----------



## BushMackel

Hey guys, I'm sorry to ask this but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to search in this thread after the site update... 

Does anyone have a listing of HDR settings ppl like to use? Something like HarperVision or a riff off of what Projector Central has found? I just upgraded my screen to a Seymour AV Center Stage XD 2.4:1 @ 129"w. Thx!


----------



## Luminated67

LDBaha said:


> Alright. I am sold on this.
> I have cancelled my backorder for the JVC - saving that cash for something else and ordered a 5050ub that should be here in less than a week.
> 
> If I can accomplish what you said then I should be very happy.
> @MississippiMan I sent you a private message regarding Black Flame.
> 
> Can some 5050ub owner comment on the pixel grid at like 8-9' distance? Is it visible? That's the only thing that concerns me about this projector


Hope these two videos I took help. I took them from a starting distance from the screen of approximately 3 foot moving into 3 inches.





E-Shift turned OFF





E-Shift turned ON

If you see the grid with e-shift ON then I’d be amazed.


----------



## LDBaha

Luminated67 said:


> Hope these two videos I took help. I took them from a starting distance from the screen of approximately 3 foot moving into 3 inches.


Wow those are great videos Thank you for taking the time. How big is that screen?
Why is this even a point of discussion? if you can only see the pixels from that distance why complain? That's like complaining that if you look closely at one of Monet's paintings all you can see are brushstrokes! oh no!

Edit: ps: my first projector a.k.a an Epson 5050ub should be here by Thursday! I'm super excited.


----------



## Luminated67

LDBaha said:


> Wow those are great videos Thank you for taking the time. How big is that screen?
> Why is this even a point of discussion? if you can only see the pixels from that distance why complain? That's like complaining that if you look closely at one of Monet's paintings all you can see are brushstrokes! oh no!
> 
> Edit: ps: my first projector a.k.a an Epson 5050ub should be here by Thursday! I'm super excited.


What can I say, a pile of haters of the brand and that is it in a nut shell. I have had dealers who sell Epson, JVC and Sony say you can not see the pixel grid when e-shift is ON at even remotely normal viewing distances and my videos back this up.

Here’s a wee short clip I took from Avatar, not sure the frame rate I used but the colours are a good representation of a calibrated machine playing 1080P


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> What can I say, a pile of haters of the brand and that is it in a nut shell. I have had dealers who sell Epson, JVC and Sony say you can not see the pixel grid when e-shift is ON at even remotely normal viewing distances and my videos back this up.
> 
> Here’s a wee short clip I took from Avatar, not sure the frame rate I used but the colours are a good representation of a calibrated machine playing 1080P


Great videos! I have the 6050 and I just love looking at this and how good it looks. Nice job.


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Great videos! I have the 6050 and I just love looking at this and how good it looks. Nice job.


Thanks I also took one from YouTube from a LG demo that shows off the contrast and colours quite well.






And this wee clip from Valerian and the City of 1000 planets






I’m looking forward to my new screen coming, it’s a high contrast grey but according to dealer who’s screens I believe are designed to their spec shouldn’t affect the colour balance or my calibration so all I need tweak is the brightness.


----------



## alangsk

I can’t seem to find a recommendation from Epson, so can anyone recommend what amount of clearance I should have around the projector (5050ub) when placing it in an enclosure? It will not be completely enclosed (front open) and I plan to use AC Infinity fan controller to remove heat from the upper back of the housing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JonfromCB

Luminated67 said:


> What can I say, a pile of haters of the brand and that is it in a nut shell. I have had dealers who sell Epson, JVC and Sony say you can not see the pixel grid when e-shift is ON at even remotely normal viewing distances and my videos back this up.
> 
> Here’s a wee short clip I took from Avatar, not sure the frame rate I used but the colours are a good representation of a calibrated machine playing 1080P


Tell it like it is. I'm with you. I don't get the insistent inference that owners shouldn't believe our lying eyes. Why don't they take a look for themselves like any wondering or informed customer would?


----------



## cky2354

Luminated67 said:


> Hope these two videos I took help. I took them from a starting distance from the screen of approximately 3 foot moving into 3 inches.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E-Shift turned OFF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E-Shift turned ON
> 
> If you see the grid with e-shift ON then I’d be amazed.


How do you turn on e-shift on and off on the Epson 5050ub? I hope I have it set on this whole time. LOL.


----------



## kensingtonwick

With past models from Epson when do you usually see the price start to drop? When a newer model comes out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

cky2354 said:


> How do you turn on e-shift on and off on the Epson 5050ub? I hope I have it set on this whole time. LOL.


When you click the menu button on the remote the first menu have Image Enhancement half way down, this is what Epson calls e-shift, when watching 1080P that hasn’t been upscales by the Bluray player or AVR you can turn this on or off but when watching 4K this is automatically turned on.

Once in this menu you can fine tune things further but I wouldn’t try this for a while.


----------



## jprg24

Hi. Looking to set up my living room to double as a home theater. I've already read a lot on this forum, and all elements have pointed me to the 5050UB (or EH-TW9400, the similar model here in Europe). I still have a ton of other questions and will save those for a separate thread, but my question for you all here is: what is the largest screen size you would recommend for this projector?

I have a rather large space: 10' 3" ceiling height (313 cm), 17' 2" (524 cm) room width, 27' 3" (830cm) room length. Projector will be ceiling mounted and project onto a painted wall or fixed screen (still deciding). I can block out the windows, so the only light might be reflections from tan colored walls/white ceiling (which I will try to address later).

I've read the detailed review on projectorreviews.com, which mentioned they had no problem projecting on a 160" screen. I think, given my room dimensions and ability to sit as far back as I want, the ideal screen size could be 165". Has anyone gone that big with this projector? Pros and cons? Should I just go a bit smaller and sit closer...? Thanks ahead of time for any feedback.


----------



## noob00224

jprg24 said:


> Hi. Looking to set up my living room to double as a home theater. I've already read a lot on this forum, and all elements have pointed me to the 5050UB (or EH-TW9400, the similar model here in Europe). I still have a ton of other questions and will save those for a separate thread, but my question for you all here is: what is the largest screen size you would recommend for this projector?
> 
> I have a rather large space: 10' 3" ceiling height (313 cm), 17' 2" (524 cm) room width, 27' 3" (830cm) room length. Projector will be ceiling mounted and project onto a painted wall or fixed screen (still deciding). I can block out the windows, so the only light might be reflections from tan colored walls/white ceiling (which I will try to address later).
> 
> I've read the detailed review on projectorreviews.com, which mentioned they had no problem projecting on a 160" screen. I think, given my room dimensions and ability to sit as far back as I want, the ideal screen size could be 165". Has anyone gone that big with this projector? Pros and cons? Should I just go a bit smaller and sit closer...? Thanks ahead of time for any feedback.


Don't get the screen until after you've had the projector for a while.

Can you place the seating at any distance?

If yes then use a 120-140" diagonal (16:9) screen and see from what distance it looks best.


----------



## jaredmwright

jprg24 said:


> Hi. Looking to set up my living room to double as a home theater. I've already read a lot on this forum, and all elements have pointed me to the 5050UB (or EH-TW9400, the similar model here in Europe). I still have a ton of other questions and will save those for a separate thread, but my question for you all here is: what is the largest screen size you would recommend for this projector?
> 
> I have a rather large space: 10' 3" ceiling height (313 cm), 17' 2" (524 cm) room width, 27' 3" (830cm) room length. Projector will be ceiling mounted and project onto a painted wall or fixed screen (still deciding). I can block out the windows, so the only light might be reflections from tan colored walls/white ceiling (which I will try to address later).
> 
> I've read the detailed review on projectorreviews.com, which mentioned they had no problem projecting on a 160" screen. I think, given my room dimensions and ability to sit as far back as I want, the ideal screen size could be 165". Has anyone gone that big with this projector? Pros and cons? Should I just go a bit smaller and sit closer...? Thanks ahead of time for any feedback.


I have a 175" screen in a 13'x22' foot room that is light treated and controlled. I have no issues and it works great.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## jprg24

noob00224 said:


> Don't get the screen until after you've had the projector for a while.
> 
> Can you place the seating at any distance?
> 
> If yes then use a 120-140" diagonal (16:9) screen and see from what distance it looks best.


Good advice. I can definitely get the projector first.

Yes, seating can be at any distance. (really, they are just couches as it is a living room/multi-purpose space.)


----------



## noob00224

jprg24 said:


> Good advice. I can definitely get the projector first.
> 
> Yes, seating can be at any distance. (really, they are just couches as it is a living room/multi-purpose space.)


To achieve "movie" like aspect, 120" diagonal is minimum. But the larger the screen, the dimmer the image. With HDR more brightness is better. 
So an ~135" screen would be best, IMO.


----------



## jprg24

jaredmwright said:


> I have a 175" screen in a 13'x22' foot room that is light treated and controlled. I have no issues and it works great.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


Thanks for the feedback. Great to hear! Is that enough brightness to do HDR content at that size/distance as well? Because I understand that is the mode where one has to sacrifice lumens.

The detailed review on projectorcentral.com kind of lays out two options (albeit testing on a 124″ 1.3 gain matte screen, with the default gamma/eotf setting of 8) :

Digital Cinema gives 1100 lumens when calibrated for 4K/HDR, with P3 color.
Natural mode for 4K HDR, but without P3. That buys an extra 700+ lumens for a total of around 1850. And that does make a real difference, by “settling” for good old REC709.

Thoughts?



noob00224 said:


> But the larger the screen, the dimmer the image. With HDR more brightness is better.


Exactly, but bigger is also better when possible. So I'm looking for others' experience on that sweet spot between image size and brightness with this projector.


----------



## jaredmwright

jprg24 said:


> Thanks for the feedback. Great to hear! Is that enough brightness to do HDR content at that size/distance as well? Because I understand that is the mode where one has to sacrifice lumens.
> 
> The detailed review on projectorcentral.com kind of lays out two options (albeit testing on a 124″ 1.3 gain matte screen, with the default gamma/eotf setting of 8) :
> 
> Digital Cinema gives 1100 lumens when calibrated for 4K/HDR, with P3 color.
> Natural mode for 4K HDR, but without P3. That buys an extra 700+ lumens for a total of around 1850. And that does make a real difference, by “settling” for good old REC709.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly, but bigger is also better when possible. So I'm looking for others' experience on that sweet spot between image size and brightness with this projector.


Before the latest firmware update I wasn't as satisfied with the brightness and HDR at 175" if I am being honest, it was good but not great and I was constantly adjusting HDR level, but with the latest firmware I am 100% happy with the experience of HDR, brightness and color and now it is great. I can leave HDR mostly on 2 for a great picture. Personally I like an immersive experience and size matters to me more than HDR. Projectors are in general poor at HDR due to peak brightness limitations in general so don't expect OLED nits and highlights. Having said that I almost always watch movies and shows in my movie room now because the experience is so good, it really is a cinematic movie experience at home.

This is a great projector, you can't go wrong IMHO.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## srees304

Pretty happy with my 5050! I use it for work (programming/web browsing) and movies.
I've noticed with web browsing if I scroll a page that I experience tearing, most noticeable on larger fonts. Anyone else experience this, and is there a fix?
The projector is running at 3840 x 2160 progressive, 30Hz, BT.709 8bit 4:4:4 SDR


----------



## Luminated67

jprg24 said:


> Thanks for the feedback. Great to hear! Is that enough brightness to do HDR content at that size/distance as well? Because I understand that is the mode where one has to sacrifice lumens.
> 
> The detailed review on projectorcentral.com kind of lays out two options (albeit testing on a 124″ 1.3 gain matte screen, with the default gamma/eotf setting of 8) :
> 
> Digital Cinema gives 1100 lumens when calibrated for 4K/HDR, with P3 color.
> Natural mode for 4K HDR, but without P3. That buys an extra 700+ lumens for a total of around 1850. And that does make a real difference, by “settling” for good old REC709.
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly, but bigger is also better when possible. So I'm looking for others' experience on that sweet spot between image size and brightness with this projector.


Quite a few screen will quote their gain is 1.3 but the reality is only the more expensive ones actually achieve their quoted figure.

There are some very knowledgeable guys on here who could steer you in the right direction regarding screens and what they actually achieve gain wise.


----------



## Manu9

Hi all, 

So I think I asked this before but didn't get an answer, and Jared's comment made me want to ask again. Can I use the US firmware on an EU machine (9400)? since the EU website only shows 1.02.
Thanks!


----------



## DaGamePimp

srees304 said:


> Pretty happy with my 5050! I use it for work (programming/web browsing) and movies.
> I've noticed with web browsing if I scroll a page that I experience tearing, most noticeable on larger fonts. Anyone else experience this, and is there a fix?
> The projector is running at 3840 x 2160 progressive, 30Hz, BT.709 8bit 4:4:4 SDR


Use 60hz instead of 30Hz.

- Jason


----------



## Luminated67

Manu9 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> So I think I asked this before but didn't get an answer, and Jared's comment made me want to ask again. Can I use the US firmware on an EU machine (9400)? since the EU website only shows 1.02.
> Thanks!


I did the update on the UK site and though it states it 1.02 it is in actual fact 1.03, I will take a photo of the software when I get home after work if you like.

Don’t know why it doesn’t call it 1.03?


----------



## Manu9

Luminated67 said:


> I did the update on the UK site and though it states it 1.02 it is in actual fact 1.03, I will take a photo of the software when I get home after work if you like.
> 
> Don’t know why it doesn’t call it 1.03?


Weird, no need for a screenshot, ill get it then.


----------



## CZ Eddie

HTPC/MadVR folks... I am getting my best results calibrating brightness/contrast by using these settings:

AMD Control Panel | Display | Pixel Format | *YCbCr 4:4:4: Pixel Format*
Epson 5050UB | Menu | Signal | Advanced | Video Range | *0-255 Full*
MadVR Display | Properties | *TV levels (16-235)*

Doesn't it seem strange to have mixed 0-255 and 16-235 in the chain?
But this allows me to see the difference in columns for the AVS basic video calibration MP4.
For both brightness (see screenshot below) as well as contrast.
Any other combo and I only get the first few bars before everything gets blown out.
Yes, I know I should calibrate so only a few columns show. 

Also, another issue is that with MadVR selected, going in or out of fullscreen mode on the video player results in the projector screen blanking out for ~ten seconds.
If I disable MadVR then I don't have that issue.

And a third issue is MadVR seems to be introducing overly warm color tones.

I'm going to reformat and reinstall this brand new Win10 install because I didn't have this issue with Win8.1 before it.
But I can't remember if I had MadVR on Win8.1 or not.


----------



## srees304

DaGamePimp said:


> Use 60hz instead of 30Hz.
> 
> - Jason


I did try forcing 1080p, 1080i, and 60Hz (could only push 60Hz at 1080 from my Macbook Pro, even tried with an EDID emulator) and nothing helped. However, the issue was much less noticeable from the xbox...so I'm going to chalk it up to a Mac issue. 🤷


----------



## biglen

CZ Eddie said:


> HTPC/MadVR folks... I am getting my best results calibrating brightness/contrast by using these settings:
> 
> AMD Control Panel | Display | Pixel Format | *YCbCr 4:4:4: Pixel Format*
> Epson 5050UB | Menu | Signal | Advanced | Video Range | *0-255 Full*
> MadVR Display | Properties | *TV levels (16-235)*
> 
> Doesn't it seem strange to have mixed 0-255 and 16-235 in the chain?
> But this allows me to see the difference in columns for the AVS basic video calibration MP4.
> For both brightness (see screenshot below) as well as contrast.
> Any other combo and I only get the first few bars before everything gets blown out.
> Yes, I know I should calibrate so only a few columns show.
> 
> Also, another issue is that with MadVR selected, going in or out of fullscreen mode on the video player results in the projector screen blanking out for ~ten seconds.
> If I disable MadVR then I don't have that issue.
> 
> And a third issue is MadVR seems to be introducing overly warm color tones.
> 
> I'm going to reformat and reinstall this brand new Win10 install because I didn't have this issue with Win8.1 before it.
> But I can't remember if I had MadVR on Win8.1 or not.


You're probably better off posting that in the MadVR forum. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## martin0711

CZ Eddie said:


> Doesn't it seem strange to have mixed 0-255 and 16-235 in the chain?
> But this allows me to see the difference in columns for the AVS basic video calibration MP4.


Not at all. Check out this post for clarification for the video levels. 

[FAQ] Video Levels and Color Spaces Demystified -- Get the Best Picture Quality


----------



## DaGamePimp

srees304 said:


> I did try forcing 1080p, 1080i, and 60Hz (could only push 60Hz at 1080 from my Macbook Pro, even tried with an EDID emulator) and nothing helped. However, the issue was much less noticeable from the xbox...so I'm going to chalk it up to a Mac issue. 🤷


Try switching between FAST and FINE, see if one is better than the other for your use case.

- Jason


----------



## CZ Eddie

martin0711 said:


> Not at all. Check out this post for clarification for the video levels.
> 
> [FAQ] Video Levels and Color Spaces Demystified -- Get the Best Picture Quality


Thanks, I feel better after reading that.
I seem to have the normal-face, normal-face, squishy-face setup and it works.

Reinstalling Win10 and various components seems to have resolved the screen blanking and overly-warm-tone issues.
Though I have not yet installed Lav filters as I had done on the previous install.


----------



## brettpjames57

Have had my 5050 for just under a week now and can say I am a satisfied customer. I was leaning hard towards a JVC NX5 but balked because no dealer I inquired with go below MSRP - the wife would have freaked out paying that much. I was concerned mostly around sharpness/SDE effect and am happy to say those concerns were not deserved. 
The 6050 was tempting but I snagged this through Parker Gwen for $2519 and couldn't justify the extra $1300+. 

I've got a 138" Silver Ticket 2.35:1 screen with the main seating position at 16ft and it is unnoticeable. I can only really start to notice when I'm about 8ft out maybe?
Haven't touched the calibration yet and an up-close look at the pixels makes we want to start playing with the color convergence/panel alignment but I haven't had the time yet.
I've got an Nvidia shield pro driving it through a Denon 4500H receiver in a fully light-controlled room.

Would a JVC NX5/7 be better? Probably yeah but $3500+ better? Debatable but in my position, the money saved allowed be to get a second SVS PB-2000 without pissing the wife off further.


----------



## noob00224

brettpjames57 said:


> Have had my 5050 for just under a week now and can say I am a satisfied customer. I was leaning hard towards a JVC NX5 but balked because no dealer I inquired with go below MSRP - the wife would have freaked out paying that much. I was concerned mostly around sharpness/SDE effect and am happy to say those concerns were not deserved.
> The 6050 was tempting but I snagged this through Parker Gwen for $2519 and couldn't justify the extra $1300+.
> 
> I've got a 138" Silver Ticket 2.35:1 screen with the main seating position at 16ft and it is unnoticeable. I can only really start to notice when I'm about 8ft out maybe?
> Haven't touched the calibration yet and an up-close look at the pixels makes we want to start playing with the color convergence/panel alignment but I haven't had the time yet.
> I've got an Nvidia shield pro driving it through a Denon 4500H receiver in a fully light-controlled room.
> 
> Would a JVC NX5/7 be better? Probably yeah but $3500+ better? Debatable but in my position, the money saved allowed be to get a second SVS PB-2000 without pissing the wife off further.


What color are the walls?

What % of media is HDR?

Are you satisfied with how the projector handles HDR?
Have you installed the latest update?

Is the image bright enough when in Cinema or Digital Cinema (with the DCI P3 filter enabled)?
How many hours on the lamp?

Are the blacks ok on the Epson?

How far away is the projector placed?

Is the only thing that looks off the convergence? Is it visible from the regular viewing position?


----------



## jprg24

brettpjames57 said:


> Have had my 5050 for just under a week now and can say I am a satisfied customer. I was leaning hard towards a JVC NX5 but balked because no dealer I inquired with go below MSRP - the wife would have freaked out paying that much. I was concerned mostly around sharpness/SDE effect and am happy to say those concerns were not deserved.
> The 6050 was tempting but I snagged this through Parker Gwen for $2519 and couldn't justify the extra $1300+.
> 
> I've got a 138" Silver Ticket 2.35:1 screen with the main seating position at 16ft and it is unnoticeable. I can only really start to notice when I'm about 8ft out maybe?
> Haven't touched the calibration yet and an up-close look at the pixels makes we want to start playing with the color convergence/panel alignment but I haven't had the time yet.
> I've got an Nvidia shield pro driving it through a Denon 4500H receiver in a fully light-controlled room.
> 
> Would a JVC NX5/7 be better? Probably yeah but $3500+ better? Debatable but in my position, the money saved allowed be to get a second SVS PB-2000 without pissing the wife off further.


I second all of noob's exact questions above. I have decided on the 5050 but am going back and forth on screen size. 140" would be the minimum I would want, and even 165" would be ideal for my room, but I'm doubting how large I can go and still get enough brightness for good HDR. (I am planning on using MadVR on an HTPC, so hopefully that helps).

Also, what color/gain is your screen? Thanks.


----------



## brettpjames57

noob00224 said:


> What color are the walls?
> Cracked Pepper: Cracked Pepper PPU18-1 | Behr Paint Colors
> Ceiling is still cream - Wife is debating that she does't want it all dark. Will decide later about putting velvet or something near the screen or get the paint roller out again
> What % of media is HDR?
> 50%?
> Are you satisfied with how the projector handles HDR?
> Yep, no second thoughts. Kids watched a 3GB sized Sonic The Hegehog 1080p and my jaw dropped. Tron Legacy HDR 4K is especially fantastic.
> Have you installed the latest update?
> Came with 1.03
> Is the image bright enough when in Cinema or Digital Cinema (with the DCI P3 filter enabled)?
> I like it. Can't say I've done a lot of testing/tinkering between the different modes but I've watched majority of stuff on DC so far.
> How many hours on the lamp?
> 70ish
> Are the blacks ok on the Epson?
> I like them
> How far away is the projector placed?
> 17ft
> Is the only thing that looks off the convergence? Is it visible from the regular viewing position?
> Yes, but i fixed that about an hour ago easily enough. Reds were off across the board. Blues were pretty much spot on


----------



## brettpjames57

jprg24 said:


> I second all of noob's exact questions above. I have decided on the 5050 but am going back and forth on screen size. 140" would be the minimum I would want, and even 165" would be ideal for my room, but I'm doubting how large I can go and still get enough brightness for good HDR. (I am planning on using MadVR on an HTPC, so hopefully that helps).
> 
> Also, what color/gain is your screen? Thanks.


White screen, supposedly 1.1 gain Silver Ticket but I've read that is closer to 1.0. The screen is actually 142" diagonal but their model number/description is 138.
The room is completely blacked out light-wise. Can't see my hand when i power everything off via the harmony remote - i gotta get some smart lights to turn on during that activity.


----------



## noob00224

Seems there is no reason to upgrade. The JVC has dynamic HDR tone mapping and better blacks, but if you haven't seen it and don't require them I guess you should stick with the Epson.
The ceiling would definitely need to be treated if you get the JVC, maybe even some dark/black velvet around the screen area.
One area of concern is the brightness. JVC (on Eco lamp, high might be too loud), is roughly as bright as the Epson in the two modes I mentioned. And it will only get dimmer.


----------



## fatallerror

noob00224 said:


> Seems there is no reason to upgrade. The JVC has dynamic HDR tone mapping and better blacks, but if you haven't seen it and don't require them I guess you should stick with the Epson.
> The ceiling would definitely need to be treated if you get the JVC, maybe even some dark/black velvet around the screen area.
> One area of concern is the brightness. JVC (on Eco lamp, high might be too loud), is roughly as bright as the Epson in the two modes I mentioned. And it will only get dimmer.


There are people here who have OLED screens and still satisfied with the black levels of the Epson, it’s in a VA LCD territory in flat screen terms if I understood right when people compared. 
now all I want is a 4K version of this projector with HDMI 2.1 for high refresh rate VRR fun


----------



## biglen

brettpjames57 said:


> White screen, supposedly 1.1 gain Silver Ticket but I've read that is closer to 1.0. The screen is actually 142" diagonal but their model number/description is 138.
> The room is completely blacked out light-wise. Can't see my hand when i power everything off via the harmony remote - i gotta get some smart lights to turn on during that activity.


If you're using Kodi to play your movies, there's a cool add-on that can turn your smart lights off when you hit play, and they come back on when hit pause or stop. I have it set up, and it works great. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## laoping

Hey.. So I've been testing out my 5050UB... I want to move it temporally .. the manual says 

Center the lens position using the *Lens* button.
*Caution:*
If you transport the projector when the lens is not centered, the lens shift mechanism may be damaged.

Ok.. how do I do this.. I can't tell if it is centered.. The reset lens position from the reset menu does nothing


----------



## martin0711

laoping said:


> Hey.. So I've been testing out my 5050UB... I want to move it temporally .. the manual says
> 
> Center the lens position using the *Lens* button.
> *Caution:*
> If you transport the projector when the lens is not centered, the lens shift mechanism may be damaged.
> 
> Ok.. how do I do this.. I can't tell if it is centered.. The reset lens position from the reset menu does nothing


I was wondering how to do this myself and found it in the user manual:

"To move the lens to the home position, press and hold the Lens"
button on the remote control or control panel for at least three seconds."


----------



## ShadowBoy

brettpjames57 said:


> Have had my 5050 for just under a week now and can say I am a satisfied customer. I was leaning hard towards a JVC NX5 but balked because no dealer I inquired with go below MSRP - the wife would have freaked out paying that much. I was concerned mostly around sharpness/SDE effect and am happy to say those concerns were not deserved.
> The 6050 was tempting but I snagged this through Parker Gwen for $2519 and couldn't justify the extra $1300+.
> 
> I've got a 138" Silver Ticket 2.35:1 screen with the main seating position at 16ft and it is unnoticeable. I can only really start to notice when I'm about 8ft out maybe?
> Haven't touched the calibration yet and an up-close look at the pixels makes we want to start playing with the color convergence/panel alignment but I haven't had the time yet.
> I've got an Nvidia shield pro driving it through a Denon 4500H receiver in a fully light-controlled room.
> 
> Would a JVC NX5/7 be better? Probably yeah but $3500+ better? Debatable but in my position, the money saved allowed be to get a second SVS PB-2000 without pissing the wife off further.


We get so screwed here in Australia. The N5 costs between $8000 and $9500 here.


----------



## brettpjames57

ShadowBoy said:


> We get so screwed here in Australia. The N5 costs between $8000 and $9500 here.


ya, moved to the US from Brisbane in 2015 and I love not having the "Australia Tax" added to everything I buy.


----------



## brettpjames57

Lens memory is starting to bug me as i move from 16:9 to 2.35:1 and back again - as others have said its not exact but doesn't happen every time. The zoom seems to be fine but the lens shift is what doesn't go to exactly what was recorded. Only in the vertical range though so its not too bad.


----------



## Luminated67

brettpjames57 said:


> Lens memory is starting to bug me as i move from 16:9 to 2.35:1 and back again - as others have said its not exact but doesn't happen every time. The zoom seems to be fine but the lens shift is what doesn't go to exactly what was recorded. Only in the vertical range though so its not too bad.


Some seems to be more affected by this than others, mine is mostly fine at both of these with the horizontal plane only being about 4mm out to the right each time. Certainly not enough to bother me.


----------



## John Meno

I just upgraded to an Epson 6050. I run my Oppo player direct to my projector because my prepro is an old outlaw 990 with ancient DVI inputs. I use my Oppo HDMI in for my Roku. After upgrading my projector I can no longer see video with my Oppo HDMI in. I upgraded the HDMI cable to HDMI 2.2 and it still does not work. Does anyone have any idea why it ia not working?


----------



## joms

Hi, does anyone know the equivalent model of the Epson EH-TW9400 in the USA? Is it the 5050UB or the 6050UB? I'm getting conflicting answers so i need your help. Thanks.

Edit: I just saw in another thread that sir Noob00224 already answered this so im just leaving it here for others who might need the info. This is his reply:

_"5050UB does not have an equivalent except for in Australia where it's the TW8400.
TW9400 is the 6050UB specifications wise. 6050UB in the US/Canada comes with some extra components that the TW9400 does not have. The TW9400 is priced lower as a result."_


----------



## Terence

joms said:


> Hi, does anyone know the equivalent model of the Epson EH-TW9400 in the USA? Is it the 5050UB or the 6050UB? I'm getting conflicting answers so i need your help. Thanks.


I believe the EH-TW9400 is a 5050UB in a black case. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GIbryl

Terence said:


> I believe the EH-TW9400 is a 5050UB in a black case.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I believe it’s the 6050 without the extra bulb and cable cover 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## John Meno

So I upgraded from an Epson 5020 to a 6050. Now the only thing that works is 4k blu-ray. Everything else registers as "no signal." Even the 4k blu ray doesn't register until it plays for a few seconds. I put in a DVD after playing a 4k Bluray and it comes up as "No signal." My Oppo HDMI input was used for my Roku on my old projector. On this model it does not recognize the video. I upgraded the HDMI cable to HDMI 2.2 and it still does not work. I still have an Outlaw 990 prepro with DVI. It worked on my old 5020 with HDMI to DVI cables. I upgraded to a higher quakity HDMI to DVI cabke and it does not work on the new Projector. What is up with my Epson 6050?!?! Did I get a lemon?!?!


----------



## fredworld

According to this review it's the 5050UB: https://turbofuture.com/consumer-electronics/Epson-Home-Cinema-5050UB-TW9400-Projector-Review-And-Recommended-Settings


----------



## joms

Is it correct that the 5050 is different from the 6050 in terms of contrast? The former having 1:1M and the latter 1:1.2M? Any other differences in spec?


----------



## etorseth87

I just got my brand new Epson 6050ub all set up and have run into an issue/question I’m hoping you can shed some light on.. I noticed when calibrating that the uniformity I’d my picture is off. Meaning that when I scroll through any of the 8 grayscale adjustments, in all of them the left side of the screen has a pretty clear green/yellow tint while the right side is more blue. I tried attaching a photo here but it might be hard to tell based on that. But is this normal at all?.. for a projector that costs $4k that just doesn’t seem right to me. Should I contact Epson for a replacement considering I just bought it?


----------



## biglen

etorseth87 said:


> I just got my brand new Epson 6050ub all set up and have run into an issue/question I’m hoping you can shed some light on.. I noticed when calibrating that the uniformity I’d my picture is off. Meaning that when I scroll through any of the 8 grayscale adjustments, in all of them the left side of the screen has a pretty clear green/yellow tint while the right side is more blue. I tried attaching a photo here but it might be hard to tell based on that. But is this normal at all?.. for a projector that costs $4k that just doesn’t seem right to me. Should I contact Epson for a replacement considering I just bought it?
> View attachment 3026834


I had something weird going on with colors too, on my 5050. I switched to HDMI 2 on the 5050, and the issue went away. There are others here that have had issues with one of the HDMI ports, and switched to the other, and their problem was solved. Give it a shot, nothing to lose. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## etorseth87

biglen said:


> I had something weird going on with colors too, on my 5050. I switched to HDMI 2 on the 5050, and the issue went away. There are others here that have had issues with one of the HDMI ports, and switched to the other, and their problem was solved. Give it a shot, nothing to lose.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I tried both HDMI ports and it was the same issue. I contacted Epson and they said they would send me a new one but they don’t have any new ones in stock right now.. so I just have to keep checking back until they do. Pretty frustrating to deal with for a brand new projector that is supposedly their top flagship.


----------



## psraj

Just placed my order for a 5050UB with AVS. Waiting for delivery sometime this week. Moving from a 4 year old Sony HW40ES to Epson 5050UB. Hopefully, Epson lives up to its promises


----------



## WOKNROX

Sounds like your Outlaw doesn't pass 4k. You will need to use the second (audio out only) HDMI on the OPPO and send it to the Outlaw. Use the 1st HDMI out on the OPPO and send it straight to the Epson...
This sould take care of your problem.


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## LDBaha

Hey guys! I finally got the projector and installed my Sintra board as a screen and I can't be happier. I ended up with a 118" 2.35:1 image at like 8 ft distance. Incredibly immersive.

I have the projector in a closet, the closet door (2 doors) one side is wide open but today I decided to check temperature (here in FL it's mad hot) and in the closet it was about 95 F. I think this is bordering on what the manual says and I would like to bring this down a bit. At least during the summer 

Anyone can recommend a cooling solution? Any ideas are appreciated


----------



## biglen

LDBaha said:


> Hey guys! I finally got the projector and installed my Sintra board as a screen and I can't be happier. I ended up with a 118" 2.35:1 image at like 8 ft distance. Incredibly immersive.
> 
> I have the projector in a closet, the closet door (2 doors) one side is wide open but today I decided to check temperature (here in FL it's mad hot) and in the closet it was about 95 F. I think this is bordering on what the manual says and I would like to bring this down a bit. At least during the summer
> 
> Anyone can recommend a cooling solution? Any ideas are appreciated


This thing keeps my 5050 super cool. It's never gone over 80°.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-0FmFbZP0GSG3











Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## John Meno

@WOKNROX thank you for the reply. It looks like I can't get anything to work with my Outlaw 990. The DVI to HDMI cables do not work with the Epson 6050. I was hopeful it would because my old Epson 5020 worked fine but the 6050 cannot receive a signal from the Outlaw. It appears I have to get a new preamp.


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## Azekecse

Try this: Connect your image source to the projector's *HDMI1* or *HDMI2* (Pro Cinema 6050UB only) port. In the Signal menu, select *Advanced* and set the *Color Space* and *Dynamic Range* settings to *Auto*.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


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## John Meno

@Azekecse thank you. I will surely give it a shot when I get home.


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## LDBaha

biglen said:


> This thing keeps my 5050 super cool. It's never gone over 80°.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-0FmFbZP0GSG3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Excellent that looks great BTW. 
Here's a photo. Excuse the disaster it's still a work in progress









I can place it on the front wall (not my preference or on the side blowing air back in the room but out of the closet.
I could also make a hole on the ceiling of the closet and blow the hot air out of the room to the attic (but also blow the cool air out)

Anyone more knowledgeable than me has any inputs/ideas?

Edit: saw the amazon link. Thank you so much


----------



## biglen

LDBaha said:


> Excellent that looks great BTW. That's the AC Infinity kit right?
> Here's a photo. Excuse the disaster it's still a work in progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can place it on the front wall (not my preference or on the side blowing air back in the room but out of the closet.
> I could also make a hole on the ceiling of the closet and blow the hot air out of the room to the attic (but also blow the cool air out)


Yes, the Infinity kit. I posted the link for it. I'd definitely put it in the ceiling. Heat rises, so the heat from the 5050, will go right to the fan, to get pulled out. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sage11x

biglen said:


> This thing keeps my 5050 super cool. It's never gone over 80°.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-0FmFbZP0GSG3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I use an AC infinity on my onkyo avr. Super nice unit. They are the apple of cooling fans. Haha!


----------



## LDBaha

biglen said:


> Yes, the Infinity kit. I posted the link for it. I'd definitely put it in the ceiling. Heat rises, so the heat from the 5050, will go right to the fan, to get pulled out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thank you so much. I saw the link after I posted (dumb me)
Heat rising that's exactly why I thought of the ceiling as first choice.

Thanks!


----------



## TSO2

How can I tell what firmware I have? I went to projector Info/Version in the menu, and its some really long file name number. My instructions say to check if it has "version 1.01, 1.02, or 1.03", lol. Nothing in the "version" in the projector menu seems related to that.


----------



## fredworld

The last three digits designate the version.


----------



## Viche

Not sure if this has been posted, but I just got the email from Projector Central:

*JVC Announces Planned HDR Upgrade for Native 4K D-ILA Projectors*









JVC Announces Planned HDR Upgrade for Native 4K D-ILA Projectors


JVC plans to provide a free firmware upgrade to improve the advanced Frame Adapt HDR feature in its late-generation native 4K projectors.



www.projectorcentral.com





It's going to be done via firmware. Wonder what they will be improving and if it is similar to what Epson did with the 1.03 update, or if it will be more and Epson will follow.

Edit: looks like it's an improvement to their dynamic tone-mapping.


----------



## CZ Eddie

What's the native bitrate on the 5050UB?
8-bit or 10-bit?
I'm guessing 10 but can't seem to narrow it down for sure.


----------



## zambine

Is anyone using an HDBaseT HDMI extender to get [email protected] HDR video successfully with your 5050UB? Any settings that need to be changed?

I just moved to a new house and there is only a Cat6 cable run to the projector. I purchased a well reviewed 18Gbps extender that promises [email protected] HDR. I am only able to get 1080p non-HDR when directly connected to my Xbox or PS4 (no signal at all when running through my receiver). I was able to get a [email protected] non-HDR signal with a direct connection to my Nvidia Shield.

The extender manufacturer suggested that the Epson EDID should set to "expanded" and that 3D should be turned off. Still no luck. I have tested the Cat6 cable and also tried a Cat7 cable. All HDMI cables used are 18Gbps and have passed [email protected] HDR signals reliably when the extender is not in the mix.

It would be so great if I could get this to work and did not have to fish a new HDMI cable through the conduit.


----------



## rollon1980

zambine said:


> Is anyone using an HDBaseT HDMI extender to get [email protected] HDR video successfully with your 5050UB? Any settings that need to be changed?
> 
> I just moved to a new house and there is only a Cat6 cable run to the projector. I purchased a well reviewed 18Gbps extender that promises [email protected] HDR. I am only able to get 1080p non-HDR when directly connected to my Xbox or PS4 (no signal at all when running through my receiver). I was able to get a [email protected] non-HDR signal with a direct connection to my Nvidia Shield.
> 
> The extender manufacturer suggested that the Epson EDID should set to "expanded" and that 3D should be turned off. Still no luck. I have tested the Cat6 cable and also tried a Cat7 cable. All HDMI cables used are 18Gbps and have passed [email protected] HDR signals reliably when the extender is not in the mix.
> 
> It would be so great if I could get this to work and did not have to fish a new HDMI cable through the conduit.


the order of things I would do...

1. try a known quality cat6 cable between the extenders! Definitely not some EBay cheapo one but from a known trusted manufacturer.
2. try extenders from another vendor
3. Fish optical HDMI through the conduit. Some have an adapter from mini HDMI to HDMI on their end to help make the ends smaller which can help


----------



## ShadowBoy

John Meno said:


> So I upgraded from an Epson 5020 to a 6050. Now the only thing that works is 4k blu-ray. Everything else registers as "no signal." Even the 4k blu ray doesn't register until it plays for a few seconds. I put in a DVD after playing a 4k Bluray and it comes up as "No signal." My Oppo HDMI input was used for my Roku on my old projector. On this model it does not recognize the video. I upgraded the HDMI cable to HDMI 2.2 and it still does not work. I still have an Outlaw 990 prepro with DVI. It worked on my old 5020 with HDMI to DVI cables. I upgraded to a higher quakity HDMI to DVI cabke and it does not work on the new Projector. What is up with my Epson 6050?!?! Did I get a lemon?!?!


John ,I think the problem is likely your source and not the projector. Make sure the resolution on the Oppo is set to AUTO. I just bought a used 203 model and when I tried to hook it up, I got a 'no signal" pop-up because it was set to 4k and neither my tv, projector, or receiver were 4k compatible. The people on the forum here suggested to me to do a factory reset by holding down the "resolution" button on the remote and then I got the menu back. I think if you set yours to AUTO it should detect any format whether DVD, blu-ray, or 4K. Hope that helps.


----------



## EvilMonkey77

I have bought a 5050UB and have a 19.5x 16 feet all black room yet to be painted. I have been down the silver fire path before but I just couldn't get good results with my spray gun and it wasn't fun so I am going with a fixed screen this time. I am half way through the new house build.

I have settled on a 135" screen and seating will be around 14-16 Feet using a row of seats and a sit down bar. Because I live in New Zealand I don't have many options but what screen is recommended to match the 5050UB.

I can get Silver Ticket, Elite, Dimension and indigo plus maybe a few others or I may try importing if someone has a good recommendation. I have a budget of around $1000 could maybe stretch it a little bit. I will be needing an acoustic screen.

So far I am liking the Elite screens but will I regret it over some other screen that is a similar price? I will likely go with the 16:9 as I do a bit of everything.


----------



## noob00224

EvilMonkey77 said:


> I have bought a 5050UB and have a 19.5x 16 feet all black room yet to be painted. I have been down the silver fire path before but I just couldn't get good results with my spray gun and it wasn't fun so I am going with a fixed screen this time. I am half way through the new house build.
> 
> I have settled on a 135" screen and seating will be around 14-16 Feet using a row of seats and a sit down bar. Because I live in New Zealand I don't have many options but what screen is recommended to match the 5050UB.
> 
> I can get Silver Ticket, Elite, Dimension and indigo plus maybe a few others or I may try importing if someone has a good recommendation. I have a budget of around $1000 could maybe stretch it a little bit. I will be needing an acoustic screen.
> 
> So far I am liking the Elite screens but will I regret it over some other screen that is a similar price? I will likely go with the 16:9 as I do a bit of everything.


Look through this sub forum:








Screens


Screen questions and answers area for both manufactured and DIY screens.




www.avsforum.com





In NZ the 5050UB is the TW8400 and 6050 is the TW9400.


----------



## John Meno

ShadowBoy said:


> John ,I think the problem is likely your source and not the projector. Make sure the resolution on the Oppo is set to AUTO. I just bought a used 203 model and when I tried to hook it up, I got a 'no signal" pop-up because it was set to 4k and neither my tv, projector, or receiver were 4k compatible. The people on the forum here suggested to me to do a factory reset by holding down the "resolution" button on the remote and then I got the menu back. I think if you set yours to AUTO it should detect any format whether DVD, blu-ray, or 4K. Hope that helps.


Thanks for that. I will check and make sure my Oppo is on auto. I really wish I could get my Roku to work on my Oppo HDMI input as I cannot use anything attached to my preamp until I upgrade to a new model.


----------



## kensingtonwick

EvilMonkey77 said:


> I have bought a 5050UB and have a 19.5x 16 feet all black room yet to be painted. I have been down the silver fire path before but I just couldn't get good results with my spray gun and it wasn't fun so I am going with a fixed screen this time. I am half way through the new house build.
> 
> I have settled on a 135" screen and seating will be around 14-16 Feet using a row of seats and a sit down bar. Because I live in New Zealand I don't have many options but what screen is recommended to match the 5050UB.
> 
> I can get Silver Ticket, Elite, Dimension and indigo plus maybe a few others or I may try importing if someone has a good recommendation. I have a budget of around $1000 could maybe stretch it a little bit. I will be needing an acoustic screen.
> 
> So far I am liking the Elite screens but will I regret it over some other screen that is a similar price? I will likely go with the 16:9 as I do a bit of everything.


XYscreens might be an option.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## John Meno

I'm having a weird issue with my lens shift. I set up my lens shift using the pattern. It has been close to perfect and I've watched multiple 4k discs on my Oppo UHD Player. For the first time I was able to use my Roku with the Oppo HDMI input. All of a sudden there is about a 3 inch space on the right of the screen and about an inch on top right when I watch the fox new channel app. How is that posaible?!?! Attached are pics of the pattern and a pic with the gap when I watch the Roku. Thanks in advance.


----------



## DaGamePimp

John Meno said:


> I'm having a weird issue with my lens shift. I set up my lens shift using the pattern. It has been close to perfect and I've watched multiple 4k discs on my Oppo UHD Player. For the first time I was able to use my Roku with the Oppo HDMI input. All of a sudden there is about a 3 inch space on the right of the screen and about an inch on top right when I watch the fox new channel app. How is that posaible?!?! Attached are pics of the pattern and a pic with the gap when I watch the Roku. Thanks in advance.


 in =  out, the gear knows what's up. 

- Jason


----------



## John Meno

Ok lol. Not sure what that means. This is my third projector with a lens shift and the first time I've had an issue like this. It is quite bizarre to me.


----------



## DaGamePimp

John Meno said:


> Ok lol. Not sure what that means. This is my third projector with a lens shift and the first time I've had an issue like this. It is quite bizarre to me.


No worries, I guess I just found it humorous that you are asking on the AV *Science* Forum and the channel you are having issue with is the only major news channel in the country that denies science. It just struck me as ironic.  

Seriously though, maybe check your scaling settings on the ROKU/Oppo, it's possible that the different channel resolutions are the cause of that gap.

- Jason


----------



## John Meno

I get it. Lol. I can come up with many examples of your side denying science as well. But we can agree to disagree politically. But thank u for that suggestion. Much appreciated!


----------



## DaGamePimp

John Meno said:


> I get it. Lol. I can come up with many examples of your side denying science as well. But we can agree to disagree politically. But thank u for that suggestion. Much appreciated!


Sorry but I'm an independent that see's the faults in both sides (mainly $), one just happens to be *far* worse at the moment. 

Best of luck finding the fix for that gap.

- Jason


----------



## John Meno

I'm not part of either party either. Thanks again!


----------



## vabluefish

Just purchased and mounted my 6050UB this week. It's my first ever projector. Still have to finished tweaking everything. Have a little keystone issue. Need to move my screen over 1.5" I believe. But, the picture from Blu-ray's is great. Really excited to put it through its paces.


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## SoySauceWDF

Where does everybody stand on using the color filter vs the loss of brightness? I get about 110 nits without the filter and 60 with the filter. Can’t decide if its worth the extra saturation over the loss of brightness when watching HDR content. Thoughts? (Using madvr for HDR tone mapping)


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## rekbones

Your projector is not perpendicular to the screen. With the available lens shift (unless you have it maxed out) just rotate the projector in the correct plain and correct with lens shift, no need to move the screen.


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## AVTimme

SoySauceWDF said:


> Where does everybody stand on using the color filter vs the loss of brightness? I get about 110 nits without the filter and 60 with the filter. Can’t decide if its worth the extra saturation over the loss of brightness when watching HDR content. Thoughts? (Using madvr for HDR tone mapping)


Its way better without the filter in my opinion. I can't say I see a lot of difference between the two in terms of color, just a much brighter picture without the fan noise you get from high lamp (which you need with the filter)


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## JewDaddy

Hey Guys! I have a couple videos up on YouTube showcasing my theater room and the 5050UB in action playing COD MW2 REMASTER in 4K HDR. Here are the links if anyone is interested in watching 











Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


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## biglen

JewDaddy said:


> Hey Guys! I have a couple videos up on YouTube showcasing my theater room and the 5050UB in action playing COD MW2 REMASTER in 4K HDR. Here are the links if anyone is interested in watching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


You mentioned Game Mode in the video. There is no Game Mode on the 5050. Your setup looks great though !

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## JewDaddy

biglen said:


> You mentioned Game Mode in the video. There is no Game Mode on the 5050. Your setup looks great though !
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thank you! Yeah I don't know why I said game mode. I meant the fast processing option that is supposed to reduce lag even more. 

Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


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## Sekosche

JewDaddy said:


> Hey Guys! I have a couple videos up on YouTube showcasing my theater room and the 5050UB in action playing COD MW2 REMASTER in 4K HDR. Here are the links if anyone is interested in watching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


That looks like a fun room! After watching the first video, I was commenting to the wife I wish I had more movie memorabilia in my theater, but it’s more of a little blacked out media room with only one purpose and not a lot of display options.

I was going to drop in tonight just to comment how much I’ve been enjoying the 5050 for gaming lately (quite a few hours into Ghost of Tsushima most recently), so your comment had excellent timing. Everything I’ve thrown at it honestly looks brilliant, especially in a blacked out room compared to my last two PJ’s that were in a multi use family space; it’s truly a thing of beauty. With ridiculous pops of color, excellent contrast, and an extremely sharp/detailed image with fantastic focus uniformity, this setup makes for an incredibly immersive and fun gaming experience. Sorry, I don’t have any sweet photos to accompany these high marks...should probably take some. 

Lately for HDR and SDR, I have been largely sticking with natural color mode for movies and gaming without fussing about the menus; I found the need to tweak settings significantly decreased since patch 1.03. I briefly used digital cinema for a few weeks on and off, but the increased light output from the other modes is, in my opinion, quite superior to a wider color gamut in most instances, and that’s in a small room wrapped in velvet at minimum throw range for my screen size.

I’m curious how many people are still using the dedicated HDR color modes for HDR content, because even in my optimized little space on a 106” screen, I can’t imagine having less light output on a much larger screen or from a longer throw in a bigger room.

Cheers!


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## Luminated67

Sekosche said:


> That looks like a fun room! After watching the first video, I was commenting to the wife I wish I had more movie memorabilia in my theater, but it’s more of a little blacked out media room with only one purpose and not a lot of display options.
> 
> I was going to drop in tonight just to comment how much I’ve been enjoying the 5050 for gaming lately (quite a few hours into Ghost of Tsushima most recently), so your comment had excellent timing. Everything I’ve thrown at it honestly looks brilliant, especially in a blacked out room compared to my last two PJ’s that were in a multi use family space; it’s truly a thing of beauty. With ridiculous pops of color, excellent contrast, and an extremely sharp/detailed image with fantastic focus uniformity, this setup makes for an incredibly immersive and fun gaming experience. Sorry, I don’t have any sweet photos to accompany these high marks...should probably take some.
> 
> Lately for HDR and SDR, I have been largely sticking with natural color mode for movies and gaming without fussing about the menus; I found the need to tweak settings significantly decreased since patch 1.03. I briefly used digital cinema for a few weeks on and off, but the increased light output from the other modes is, in my opinion, quite superior to a wider color gamut in most instances, and that’s in a small room wrapped in velvet at minimum throw range for my screen size.
> 
> I’m curious how many people are still using the dedicated HDR color modes for HDR content, because even in my optimized little space on a 106” screen, I can’t imagine having less light output on a much larger screen or from a longer throw in a bigger room.
> 
> Cheers!


I take it your unit hasn’t been calibrated?

The thing is once calibrated the professionals look for a certain amount of lumens at the screen on SDR so the difference between modes isn’t that great. For example on my 100” screen the Iris is closed down to -16 on SDR yet is at 0 for HDR.


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## fatallerror

Sekosche said:


> *I was going to drop in tonight just to comment how much I’ve been enjoying the 5050 for gaming lately* (quite a few hours into Ghost of Tsushima most recently), so your comment had excellent timing. Everything I’ve thrown at it honestly looks brilliant, especially in a blacked out room compared to my last two PJ’s that were in a multi use family space; it’s truly a thing of beauty. With ridiculous pops of color, excellent contrast, and an extremely *sharp/detailed image* with fantastic focus uniformity, this setup makes for an incredibly immersive and fun gaming experience.


Always nice to read positive gaming experience posts, it seems that HUD sharpness is not a problem, I’m assuming that it’s the case even from closer viewing distances.


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## JewDaddy

Sekosche said:


> That looks like a fun room! After watching the first video, I was commenting to the wife I wish I had more movie memorabilia in my theater, but it’s more of a little blacked out media room with only one purpose and not a lot of display options.
> 
> I was going to drop in tonight just to comment how much I’ve been enjoying the 5050 for gaming lately (quite a few hours into Ghost of Tsushima most recently), so your comment had excellent timing. Everything I’ve thrown at it honestly looks brilliant, especially in a blacked out room compared to my last two PJ’s that were in a multi use family space; it’s truly a thing of beauty. With ridiculous pops of color, excellent contrast, and an extremely sharp/detailed image with fantastic focus uniformity, this setup makes for an incredibly immersive and fun gaming experience. Sorry, I don’t have any sweet photos to accompany these high marks...should probably take some.
> 
> Lately for HDR and SDR, I have been largely sticking with natural color mode for movies and gaming without fussing about the menus; I found the need to tweak settings significantly decreased since patch 1.03. I briefly used digital cinema for a few weeks on and off, but the increased light output from the other modes is, in my opinion, quite superior to a wider color gamut in most instances, and that’s in a small room wrapped in velvet at minimum throw range for my screen size.
> 
> I’m curious how many people are still using the dedicated HDR color modes for HDR content, because even in my optimized little space on a 106” screen, I can’t imagine having less light output on a much larger screen or from a longer throw in a bigger room.
> 
> Cheers!


Thank you!!! It's nice getting to show off my theater room. Really, one of the best parts of having one is showing it off to someone for the first time. Always interesting to find out if they're more impressed by the Dolby Atmos Sound or the Amazing picture quality of the projector. Sometimes it's both! And yes, one of my biggest goals for this room was to put up movie memorabilia that I love. But the problem with that is I end up seeing something cool online and then swap stuff out on my wall  Thanks for checking it out! 

Quick note - I use the Natural picture mode for both Games and Movies. It strikes the best balance for what I like in a picture. 

Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


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## cky2354

JewDaddy said:


> Thank you!!! It's nice getting to show off my theater room. Really, one of the best parts of having one is showing it off to someone for the first time. Always interesting to find out if they're more impressed by the Dolby Atmos Sound or the Amazing picture quality of the projector. Sometimes it's both! And yes, one of my biggest goals for this room was to put up movie memorabilia that I love. But the problem with that is I end up seeing something cool online and then swap stuff out on my wall  Thanks for checking it out!
> 
> Quick note - I use the Natural picture mode for both Games and Movies. It strikes the best balance for what I like in a picture.
> 
> Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


I think I need to do a youtube channel to showcase my system as well.. ours is very similar with similar budget. Glad you are enjoying your setup because I have been watching content like crazy on mine ... 3D, 4K, gaming... it's been so awesome especially during these days where I am pretty much home with the kids.


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## quenthal

Is there any way to automate Memory function? For example, I have different calibration stored for HDR, SDR etc in different memory slots, but I need to manually change those depending on what I'm watching.

If not automatically, is there discrete commands for different memory slots to use with Harmony etc.?


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## plain fan

Hey JewDaddy, how do you like it for your 4k gaming from the PS4 Pro? How does it compare to the OLED?


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## psraj

I received my 5050UB yesterday. Spent the day to setup and preliminary tests. I am moving from a Sony HW40ES. I am using an Elite Cinetension series 2 - 106" screen, the room is dark dedicated room. My first impression of the Epson compared to my current Sony, is not a wow. I am a little disappointed.

The first thing I noticed was how visible the screen door effect was even in 4K enh. mode in Epson. Sony SXRD panels have almost non-visible pixel gaps.
The overall image quality of the Epson is very very close to Sony HW40ES. I am using an Oppo 203, and my Sony handled 4K downscaling pretty well, and the Epson 4K enh. images don't look dramatically different. Sony seems slightly brighter.
Epson black levels seem very slightly better than Sony, may be the iris.
My Epson is set to Digital Cinema mode (hight power) with calibration settings taken from Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews. Epson colors do look slightly better than Sony after calibration.
Epson image looks a bit softer compared to Sony.
Epson fan is slightly louder, but not a big deal.

Overall I don't think this is a big upgrade for me. Though I can still return my Epson, I am going to keep it. Sony has served well for almost 5 years. This is my first Epson.


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## jaredmwright

psraj said:


> I received my 5050UB yesterday. Spent the day to setup and preliminary tests. I am moving from a Sony HW40ES. I am using an Elite Cinetension series 2 - 106" screen, the room is dark dedicated room. My first impression of the Epson compared to my current Sony, is not a wow. I am a little disappointed.
> 
> The first thing I noticed was how visible the screen door effect was even in 4K enh. mode in Epson. Sony SXRD panels have almost non-visible pixel gaps.
> The overall image quality of the Epson is very very close to Sony HW40ES. I am using an Oppo 203, and my Sony handled 4K downscaling pretty well, and the Epson 4K enh. images don't look dramatically different. Sony seems slightly brighter.
> Epson black levels seem very slightly better than Sony, may be the iris.
> My Epson is set to Digital Cinema mode (hight power) with calibration settings taken from Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews. Epson colors do look slightly better than Sony after calibration.
> Epson image looks a bit softer compared to Sony.
> Epson fan is slightly louder, but not a big deal.
> 
> Overall I don't think this is a big upgrade for me. Though I can still return my Epson, I am going to keep it. Sony has served well for almost 5 years. This is my first Epson.


Make sure you are on the latest firmware and I recommend adjusting settings using a calibration disc and equipment if possible. You shouldn't be able to see the screen door effect at normal viewing distance, only when up close and inspecting. Also make sure to set the convergence if you haven't already. 

I also agree that sometimes moving from one projector to another isn't immediately a wow factor, partly because we are reaching a point where they are both very good, the HDR with latest firmware should make you a believer in the value of the projector. I went from a 5030ub 1080P and wasn't immediately impressed, but now I am with it dialed in and latest firmware with calibration.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


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## Sekosche

Luminated67 said:


> I take it your unit hasn’t been calibrated?
> 
> The thing is once calibrated the professionals look for a certain amount of lumens at the screen on SDR so the difference between modes isn’t that great. For example on my 100” screen the Iris is closed down to -16 on SDR yet is at 0 for HDR.


No, mine isn’t calibrated in the slightest. I should look into pros in my area one day. I’m not sure how far they would travel outside major cities, but I’m a few hours from KC and two from Tulsa. I am curious how a proper calibration would bring out the best in this PJ, because I’m already very pleased with its performance.


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## Luminated67

psraj said:


> I received my 5050UB yesterday. Spent the day to setup and preliminary tests. I am moving from a Sony HW40ES. I am using an Elite Cinetension series 2 - 106" screen, the room is dark dedicated room. My first impression of the Epson compared to my current Sony, is not a wow. I am a little disappointed.
> 
> The first thing I noticed was how visible the screen door effect was even in 4K enh. mode in Epson. Sony SXRD panels have almost non-visible pixel gaps.
> The overall image quality of the Epson is very very close to Sony HW40ES. I am using an Oppo 203, and my Sony handled 4K downscaling pretty well, and the Epson 4K enh. images don't look dramatically different. Sony seems slightly brighter.
> Epson black levels seem very slightly better than Sony, may be the iris.
> My Epson is set to Digital Cinema mode (hight power) with calibration settings taken from Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews. Epson colors do look slightly better than Sony after calibration.
> Epson image looks a bit softer compared to Sony.
> Epson fan is slightly louder, but not a big deal.
> Overall I don't think this is a big upgrade for me. Though I can still return my Epson, I am going to keep it. Sony has served well for almost 5 years. This is my first Epson.


I am amazed by your comments because I moved to the Epson from the HW45 and I don’t see any of the issues to are noticing. Please describe the screen door effect in detail because I have posted videos and close up images proving that it’s non existent with e-shift ON. For example I did a direct side by side comparison with a Sony VW360es native 4K in my room both feed the same signal from a splitter and took turns at covering the lens on each to compare and until we (myself and the Sony owner) moved to less than 7ft from my 100” screen could you start and see the increased resolution of the Sony and frankly it’s a better machine than the HW40. In fact the mate who owes the Sony actually said he wished he had saved his money and just bought the Epson.

I can only imagine that if you are seeing SDE you are seated way closer than most.

Don’t get me wrong the Sony was a brilliant machine but in my opinion the Epson is better is just about every way apart from motion handling where Sony is top of the class.


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## rollon1980

psraj said:


> I received my 5050UB yesterday. Spent the day to setup and preliminary tests. I am moving from a Sony HW40ES. I am using an Elite Cinetension series 2 - 106" screen, the room is dark dedicated room. My first impression of the Epson compared to my current Sony, is not a wow. I am a little disappointed.
> 
> The first thing I noticed was how visible the screen door effect was even in 4K enh. mode in Epson. Sony SXRD panels have almost non-visible pixel gaps.
> The overall image quality of the Epson is very very close to Sony HW40ES. I am using an Oppo 203, and my Sony handled 4K downscaling pretty well, and the Epson 4K enh. images don't look dramatically different. Sony seems slightly brighter.
> Epson black levels seem very slightly better than Sony, may be the iris.
> My Epson is set to Digital Cinema mode (hight power) with calibration settings taken from Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews. Epson colors do look slightly better than Sony after calibration.
> Epson image looks a bit softer compared to Sony.
> Epson fan is slightly louder, but not a big deal.
> Overall I don't think this is a big upgrade for me. Though I can still return my Epson, I am going to keep it. Sony has served well for almost 5 years. This is my first Epson.


Something must be wrong if you are not noticing better image quality.

1. Firstly, I would not use the Digital Cinema mode, especially not for SDR (but even not for HDR). Switch to Natural.
2. Don't use settings from the net with a new lamp! Maybe once you reach 50-100 hours.
3. Don't use panel alignment if possible. It is no longer motorised but digital and will cut resolution in the chroma channels
4. make sure you set your focus with 1080p signal fed without 4K enhancement on then switch 4K back on
5. Use medium lamp and dial back the manual iris to between -5 and -10 dependent on screen size
6. Absolutely must update to the latest firmware but check if your unit already has it.


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## rollon1980

Luminated67 said:


> I am amazed by your comments because I moved to the Epson from the HW45 and I don’t see any of the issues to are noticing. Please describe the screen door effect in detail because I have posted videos and close up images proving that it’s non existent with e-shift ON.
> 
> Don’t get me wrong the Somy was a brilliant machine but in my opinion the Epson is better is just about every way apart from motion handling where Sony is top of the class.


I agree with this. I would say that Epson's native motion handling is better than LCOS or SXRD panels. The Sony is only better at motion handling due to its motion smoothing.  I actually don't mind watching the Epson without motion smoothing while I can't stand it on LCOS or SXRD.


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## mrdh68

The Digital Cinema mode is the best in colour spectrum although it's dimmed by the filter cinema, but you can/should compensate a bit with the power lamp in high mode. The HDR in this projector is outstanding, especially, after the last firmware upgrade. If you prefer "natural" mode it's great but the colors become too saturated (it's a question of personal preferences).

The panel alignment works greatly and if you set it as its best (depending of the screen size) it improves a lot the sharpness and the light details of the images.

The screen door effect, even without the 4K enhancement, it's almost imperceptible as you can only see it very near the screen.

For more than 10 year I owned several projectors (Dreamvision, Infocus, Panasonic,...) and the Epson is one of the best projectors that you can buy at this price level with astonishing film images.

My expectation is Epson improves it in the future with a 4K native display. I'm sure it would be a step further in the home cinema experience at this budget level.


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## Sorny

quenthal said:


> Is there any way to automate Memory function? For example, I have different calibration stored for HDR, SDR etc in different memory slots, but I need to manually change those depending on what I'm watching.
> 
> If not automatically, is there discrete commands for different memory slots to use with Harmony etc.?


If you've saved the settings to memory locations, you can set up a "sequence" in your harmony to activate them. The memory slots do not change, and the menus start at the same positions every time. It ends up being something like "memory, arrow down, select" for the sequence or something very similar to that. It works great. I've got sequences for HDR and SDR and it's a button press away to activate. 

One nit to pick with it though, is that you can't do it while the projector is switching modes. By this I mean say I'm in Netflix, on an Apple TV 4k with match range and frame rate enabled (how I usually watch neflix) and select a title in HDR. The Menu is SDR, and frame rate is 60Hz (or 30, not important except the movie/show is different). When I select the show/movie to start, the projector changes modes to match the frame rate, so there's about 5 seconds of black screen. When the projector is changing frame rates, it will NOT accept the sequence to enable HDR. So, my workaround is to select the title to watch and immediately hit pause. I wait until I see something on the screen, then I can execute the sequence to change to HDR. You could also change it before starting the movie/show. Just keep in mind when the projector is changing frame rates, it won't accept any commands is all I'm saying.


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## psraj

Thanks for all the responses, it was very helpful . So I did go back and looked at the panel alignment, and both R and B needed slight adjustment. After which the onscreen menus do look noticeably cleaner, Improvement!. My firmware is already 1.03, latest version. Also used 1080p signal to get a best focus as possible using the onscreen menu as a reference image. This did help here too. I watched Jaws 4K fully, and there was a noticeable difference in color and HDR. Also tried parts of Aquaman 4K, Jurassic World 4K, Star Wars - Rise of Skywalker 4K. All of them looked much improved in terms clarity and HDR. The SDE was visible at about 3 feet from the screen, but not from my normal seating distance of 12 feet. So, may be I shouldn't pixel peep except while focusing . So, things do look better on day 3. I do prefer color pallet of Digital Cinema in high lamp mode, it matches theater cinema quality very closely. Does using lens shift affect image clarity in any way?
What is everyone using for calibration in general? I saw Chomapure, but wasn't sure how easy it is to use. Also, I noticed an audible buzzing in 4Ke mode, when there is a bright image on the screen, when the image turns darker the buzzing quietens, not sure if its the fan or something else. Not a big issue, and is hardly noticeable in normal viewing conditions. Has anyone noticed this?


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## fredworld

psraj, in reply to your question, "What is everyone using for calibration in general?"
I'm sure some are tired of me touting the benefits of Spears & Muncil's UHD Benchmark disc but here's a paste of one of my previous posts:
The best investment I made in my Epson 5050UB projector is the $40 I spent for the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc*. It's as close as one can get to (but not a substitute for) a professional calibration. The Benchmark disc is an excellent tool.
Spend some time studying the articles from the above hyperlink. I check my projector's setting about every 150 hours with 4 or 5 basic patterns.


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## mrdh68

psraj said:


> Thanks for all the responses, it was very helpful . So I did go back and looked at the panel alignment, and both R and B needed slight adjustment. After which the onscreen menus do look noticeably cleaner, Improvement!. My firmware is already 1.03, latest version. Also used 1080p signal to get a best focus as possible using the onscreen menu as a reference image. This did help here too. I watched Jaws 4K fully, and there was a noticeable difference in color and HDR. Also tried parts of Aquaman 4K, Jurassic World 4K, Star Wars - Rise of Skywalker 4K. All of them looked much improved in terms clarity and HDR. The SDE was visible at about 3 feet from the screen, but not from my normal seating distance of 12 feet. So, may be I shouldn't pixel peep except while focusing . So, things do look better on day 3. I do prefer color pallet of Digital Cinema in high lamp mode, it matches theater cinema quality very closely. Does using lens shift affect image clarity in any way?
> What is everyone using for calibration in general? I saw Chomapure, but wasn't sure how easy it is to use. Also, I noticed an audible buzzing in 4Ke mode, when there is a bright image on the screen, when the image turns darker the buzzing quietens, not sure if its the fan or something else. Not a big issue, and is hardly noticeable in normal viewing conditions. Has anyone noticed this?


Answering:
"Does using lens shift affect image clarity in any way?": It might affect a bit as a 16:9 concentrates more light than a 2.35:1 which you have to open the imagem zoom to compensate the black bars. However it's perfectly acceptable and does not affect the image quality.

" I noticed an audible buzzing in 4Ke mode, when there is a bright image on the screen, when the image turns darker the buzzing quietens, not sure if its the fan or something else": There's a small buzz when the image frame rate is at 60 hertz. I took some time to find that out, but I have the previous model and the same happens.


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## Sekosche

psraj said:


> Thanks for all the responses, it was very helpful . So I did go back and looked at the panel alignment, and both R and B needed slight adjustment. After which the onscreen menus do look noticeably cleaner, Improvement!. My firmware is already 1.03, latest version. Also used 1080p signal to get a best focus as possible using the onscreen menu as a reference image. This did help here too. I watched Jaws 4K fully, and there was a noticeable difference in color and HDR. Also tried parts of Aquaman 4K, Jurassic World 4K, Star Wars - Rise of Skywalker 4K. All of them looked much improved in terms clarity and HDR. The SDE was visible at about 3 feet from the screen, but not from my normal seating distance of 12 feet. So, may be I shouldn't pixel peep except while focusing . So, things do look better on day 3. I do prefer color pallet of Digital Cinema in high lamp mode, it matches theater cinema quality very closely. Does using lens shift affect image clarity in any way?
> What is everyone using for calibration in general? I saw Chomapure, but wasn't sure how easy it is to use. Also, I noticed an audible buzzing in 4Ke mode, when there is a bright image on the screen, when the image turns darker the buzzing quietens, not sure if its the fan or something else. Not a big issue, and is hardly noticeable in normal viewing conditions. Has anyone noticed this?


That’s good the 5050 is growing on you. You came from one of the highest rated 1080p PJ’s for under $2K for the last generation, to a projector that costs just a little bit more, so I wouldn’t expect a world of difference until at least until doubling or tripling your investment...which is JVC territory. The age difference between these two models alone should help bridge some of the gap.

I nearly bought a Sony at my last house, but the light output necessary in a shared space warranted the Epson 3700, and that eventually lead me to the 5050UB when I moved to a dedicated space. I’m glad I made the switch. I hope you continue to see an improved movie experience.


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## JewDaddy

plain fan said:


> Hey JewDaddy, how do you like it for your 4k gaming from the PS4 Pro? How does it compare to the OLED?


Hey there! I have to say, overall, I prefer the Epson over my C9 OLED. The biggest reason why is just the shear size of the display and the experience that it comes with. To get more specific, the PS4 pro in 4k just looks stunning with this projector. It's clear, picture is sharp and crisp, the colors especially in HDR just pop depending on your settings and what mode you use. And I have to say, the input lag response time is super low. I might be able to tell a very very small difference between it and my OLED but it's not enough to be that noticable. Playing games like Destiny 2 and Call of Duty are so much more immersive and it's easier to see what's around you. Don't get me wrong, my C9 OLED is in a league of it's own when it comes to overall picture quality. But in a light controlled room, the Epson gives my OLED a run for it's money. I don't think this projector gets enough credit for how well it handles video gaming. I think you would be in awe seeing this paired with a PS4 pro or Xbox One X. 

Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


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## JewDaddy

cky2354 said:


> I think I need to do a youtube channel to showcase my system as well.. ours is very similar with similar budget. Glad you are enjoying your setup because I have been watching content like crazy on mine ... 3D, 4K, gaming... it's been so awesome especially during these days where I am pretty much home with the kids.


Thanks for watching!! It's nice hearing there's other setups like mine that people are enjoying. Im with you on really utilizing a home theater during a time like this. I wished I used it even more but I'll take what I can get. Lol

It's fun having a silly little YouTube channel on the side. I highly recommend trying it out for fun. It's a nice little distraction. I would love to see your setup if you ever decide to post a video 

Sent from my IN2025 using Tapatalk


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## rollon1980

psraj said:


> Thanks for all the responses, it was very helpful . So I did go back and looked at the panel alignment, and both R and B needed slight adjustment. After which the onscreen menus do look noticeably cleaner, Improvement!. My firmware is already 1.03, latest version. Also used 1080p signal to get a best focus as possible using the onscreen menu as a reference image. This did help here too. I watched Jaws 4K fully, and there was a noticeable difference in color and HDR. Also tried parts of Aquaman 4K, Jurassic World 4K, Star Wars - Rise of Skywalker 4K. All of them looked much improved in terms clarity and HDR. The SDE was visible at about 3 feet from the screen, but not from my normal seating distance of 12 feet. So, may be I shouldn't pixel peep except while focusing . So, things do look better on day 3. I do prefer color pallet of Digital Cinema in high lamp mode, it matches theater cinema quality very closely. Does using lens shift affect image clarity in any way?
> What is everyone using for calibration in general? I saw Chomapure, but wasn't sure how easy it is to use. Also, I noticed an audible buzzing in 4Ke mode, when there is a bright image on the screen, when the image turns darker the buzzing quietens, not sure if its the fan or something else. Not a big issue, and is hardly noticeable in normal viewing conditions. Has anyone noticed this?


One last thing... press the HDR button on the remote and adjust the HDR slider to get the HDR image to the right brightness for your screen. Some people didn't know this button existed when they started out. I'm sorry if I am stating the obvious.

If you have Aquaman on UHD blu ray... put the disc menu on where he is standing under the waterfall and watch his green suit. Now turn your panel alignment on and off while standing close to the screen. If you can see the resolution decrease, your panel alignment is cutting some of the chroma channels and therefore mess with your content, even though your projector menu looks awesome. That particular image is a good test as your eyes are most sensitive to green after luma (brightness). From a seating distance, small panel alignment issues are not issues. If they were, they would be an issue on almost every TV ever made, not just projectors.


----------



## joms

May i clarify something, can the Epson 5050UB/6050UB do this:

1) save in setting 1 : (16:9 set to the following: Zoom 2.0 / Throw - 157 inches / Height - 62 / Width - 111 / Diagonal - 127)

2) save in setting 2 : (2.35:1 set to the following: Zoom 2.1 / Throw - 157 inches / Height - 49 / Width - 116 / Diagonal - 126)

So when i watch a 16:9 video, i press setting 1 and when i watch a 2.35:1 video, i press setting 2 and it automatically changes without me needing to manually adjust anything? (note: the zoom is changed from 2.0 to 2.1 but the throw is the same at 157 inches)

Thanks.


----------



## mbroadus

Hello everyone...I’m currently in the early stages of research regarding adding a projector and screen to my living room. My preliminary research has me focusing on the Epson 6050UB and Sony VPL-VW295ES with a 90” Screen Innovations Solo Pro 2 motorized screen. The screen will come down from the ceiling in front of 3 windows and the windows have black out drapes so I have the ability to control lighting. The setup will be used for movies, sports and some gaming on a PS4/5. Early research has me leaning toward the 6050 because of the higher Lumens, Input picture memory settings, extra bulb and mount. I feel as though I get a little more projector for the price with the Epson. Any thoughts or comments welcome, especially any items I may have not considered. I’m a little concerned with projector noise since the projector will be above the main sitting position at 10ft.


----------



## jedi1982

Is anybody using the Amazon Fire Stick 4K? What did you select for the Amazon Fire Stick Color Depth option? 8bit or 10bit?


----------



## C S

mbroadus said:


> Hello everyone...I’m currently in the early stages of research regarding adding a projector and screen to my living room. My preliminary research has me focusing on the Epson 6050UB and Sony VPL-VW295ES with a 90” Screen Innovations Solo Pro 2 motorized screen. The screen will come down from the ceiling in front of 3 windows and the windows have black out drapes so I have the ability to control lighting. The setup will be used for movies, sports and some gaming on a PS4/5. Early research has me leaning toward the 6050 because of the higher Lumens, Input picture memory settings, extra bulb and mount. I feel as though I get a little more projector for the price with the Epson. Any thoughts or comments welcome, especially any items I may have not considered. I’m a little concerned with projector noise since the projector will be above the main sitting position at 10ft.


I was down to the same two projectors as well. Going with the epson for all that you mentioned I was initially going with a 110” screen but after reading comments I will be going with a 122” screen. Plan to sit about 12’ away. If I was you I would consider a bigger screen. You can always shrink it down later if you want. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jaredmwright

mbroadus said:


> Hello everyone...I’m currently in the early stages of research regarding adding a projector and screen to my living room. My preliminary research has me focusing on the Epson 6050UB and Sony VPL-VW295ES with a 90” Screen Innovations Solo Pro 2 motorized screen. The screen will come down from the ceiling in front of 3 windows and the windows have black out drapes so I have the ability to control lighting. The setup will be used for movies, sports and some gaming on a PS4/5. Early research has me leaning toward the 6050 because of the higher Lumens, Input picture memory settings, extra bulb and mount. I feel as though I get a little more projector for the price with the Epson. Any thoughts or comments welcome, especially any items I may have not considered. I’m a little concerned with projector noise since the projector will be above the main sitting position at 10ft.


My main concern would be the limited screen size. I had a 100" projection screen and it was much too small for me to be immersed. You are able to get a really large display near that size nowadays for around the same amount. That may not be an option for you, but I share based ony experience, I wasn't happy with 100" and went larger quickly.


Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


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## mbroadus

C S said:


> I was down to the same two projectors as well. Going with the epson for all that you mentioned I was initially going with a 110” screen but after reading comments I will be going with a 122” screen. Plan to sit about 12’ away. If I was you I would consider a bigger screen. You can always shrink it down later if you want.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks...I’m currently in a room redo and hopefully once I get my equipment settled and placed, I’m hoping to have enough room for a larger screen. I live in a narrow townhouse (15ft) and current measurements allow only 81” wide. I want the bottom of my screen to be at 36” and my speakers are 45” tall so I need to allow for speakers on the side. But that could change if I go with KEF in-ceiling speakers.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## C S

mbroadus said:


> Thanks...I’m currently in a room redo and hopefully once I get my equipment settled and placed, I’m hoping to have enough room for a larger screen. I live in a narrow townhouse (15ft) and current measurements allow only 81” wide. I want the bottom of my screen to be at 36” and my speakers are 45” tall so I need to allow for speakers on the side. But that could change if I go with KEF in-ceiling speakers.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Gotcha. Yeah I’m building now. I have all the width I need but severely limited on depth of the room. Planing for a 5.1.4 sound setup but not sure how the rear sound will be given seating is on the back wall. I guess it’ll be better than nothing haha. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mbroadus

jaredmwright said:


> My main concern would be the limited screen size. I had a 100" projection screen and it was much too small for me to be immersed. You are able to get a really large display near that size nowadays for around the same amount. That may not be an option for you, but I share based ony experience, I wasn't happy with 100" and went larger quickly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


I hear ya...I may be able to squeeze in a 100” screen but I live in a narrow townhouse and my space is very limited. This will also be in a living room and needs to be a classy setup. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## jaredmwright

mbroadus said:


> I hear ya...I may be able to squeeze in a 100” screen but I live in a narrow townhouse and my space is very limited. This will also be in a living room and needs to be a classy setup.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Consider a 4k short throw in that case, may be a better option.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## joms

joms said:


> May i clarify something, can the Epson 5050UB/6050UB do this:
> 
> 1) save in setting 1 : (16:9 set to the following: Zoom 2.0 / Throw - 157 inches / Height - 62 / Width - 111 / Diagonal - 127)
> 
> 2) save in setting 2 : (2.35:1 set to the following: Zoom 2.1 / Throw - 157 inches / Height - 49 / Width - 116 / Diagonal - 126)
> 
> So when i watch a 16:9 video, i press setting 1 and when i watch a 2.35:1 video, i press setting 2 and it automatically changes without me needing to manually adjust anything? (note: the zoom is changed from 2.0 to 2.1 but the throw is the same at 157 inches)
> 
> Thanks.


Anyone? I just want to ensure that the 5050UB/6050UB can do this function. Thanks.


----------



## noob00224

mbroadus said:


> Hello everyone...I’m currently in the early stages of research regarding adding a projector and screen to my living room. My preliminary research has me focusing on the Epson 6050UB and Sony VPL-VW295ES with a 90” Screen Innovations Solo Pro 2 motorized screen. The screen will come down from the ceiling in front of 3 windows and the windows have black out drapes so I have the ability to control lighting. The setup will be used for movies, sports and some gaming on a PS4/5. Early research has me leaning toward the 6050 because of the higher Lumens, Input picture memory settings, extra bulb and mount. I feel as though I get a little more projector for the price with the Epson. Any thoughts or comments welcome, especially any items I may have not considered. I’m a little concerned with projector noise since the projector will be above the main sitting position at 10ft.


Get the Epson or the JVC NX5 if you can.

Color of walls?


----------



## mbroadus

jaredmwright said:


> Consider a 4k short throw in that case, may be a better option.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


Do you mean ultra short throw, that would go in a cabinet? I have thought about it but the whole idea is to have as little furniture and equipment in the room, especially in the front of the room.


----------



## mbroadus

noob00224 said:


> Get the Epson or the JVC NX5 if you can.
> 
> Color of walls?


Yes, forgot about the JVC NX5. I've done some preliminary research on the NX5 but will do more. 

Walls in the living room are light shades of gray.


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## noob00224

mbroadus said:


> Yes, forgot about the JVC NX5. I've done some preliminary research on the NX5 but will do more.
> 
> Walls in the living room are light shades of gray.


Consider treating the room:



__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1692721894385217


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## jaredmwright

mbroadus said:


> Do you mean ultra short throw, that would go in a cabinet? I have thought about it but the whole idea is to have as little furniture and equipment in the room, especially in the front of the room.


Yes ultra short throw. Reason being is it may be a better fit, no mounting necessary and may provide a brighter picture with less room treatment. I would look into it for your size and conditions and compare the trade offs. They are small and fairly attractive compared to a large 5050/6050 IMHO.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

joms said:


> Anyone? I just want to ensure that the 5050UB/6050UB can do this function. Thanks.


Yes, although some have challenges with the consistency of the position when changing since it may be slightly off, but this is supported yes. I haven't used it on my 6050 so cannot say from personal experience how well it works.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


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## mbroadus

noob00224 said:


> Consider treating the room:
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1692721894385217


While a great idea, I would only be able to do one wall since the other wall has a fireplace and a staircase. The only real treatment that's feasible is the blackout curtains behind the screen. Thanks for the video, that's a great idea.


----------



## noob00224

mbroadus said:


> While a great idea, I would only be able to do one wall since the other wall has a fireplace and a staircase. The only real treatment that's feasible is the blackout curtains behind the screen. Thanks for the video, that's a great idea.


Well try a curtain system just like the video. 
High contrast projectors, any projector really, would benefit from treatment.


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## mbroadus

jaredmwright said:


> Yes ultra short throw. Reason being is it may be a better fit, no mounting necessary and may provide a brighter picture with less room treatment. I would look into it for your size and conditions and compare the trade offs. They are small and fairly attractive compared to a large 5050/6050 IMHO.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


I thought of that at first but would like keep the front of the room free of furniture since the 3 windows are floor to ceiling with a fireplace off to one side. 

Here’s a pic...please disregard furniture placement because everything was thrown to this side of the room until the kitchen/dining room is finished.

I’m currently looking at a screen innovations slate screen with 1.2 gain made for high ambient light.


----------



## mbroadus

noob00224 said:


> Well try a curtain system just like the video.
> High contrast projectors, any projector really, would benefit from treatment.


Ohh...forgot to mention that there’s a WAF (wife acceptance factor). 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## CZ Eddie

Did anyone here buy their 5050UB from Dell.com towards the end of this July (2020)?
I have a question about the $250 promo gift card they advertised.
The PJ was marked at $200 off, and they also advertised a $250 promo gift card in addition to the $200 off. 
Have you received your promo gift card yet?


----------



## CZ Eddie

jedi1982 said:


> Is anybody using the Amazon Fire Stick 4K? What did you select for the Amazon Fire Stick Color Depth option? 8bit or 10bit?


I asked a similar question but never got a response.
I believe the 5050UB is capable of 8, 10 and 12 bit.

But per my preliminary research for MadVR HTPC purposes at least, it's best to choose 8 bit to reduce processing overhead. 
And 10/12 bit would not provide any better picture quality. 
This is just my understanding of what I've read so far. Someone with more experience in the area may prove me wrong.



mbroadus said:


> Yes, forgot about the JVC NX5. I've done some preliminary research on the NX5 but will do more.


Just a reminder to folks in general that the 5050UB replacement bulbs can be found very cheap from quality 3rd party sources.
While the JVC bulbs are usually $$$.


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## mbroadus

CZ Eddie said:


> Just a reminder to folks in general that the 5050UB replacement bulbs can be found very cheap from quality 3rd party sources.
> While the JVC bulbs are usually $$$.


Good point about the cost of bulbs...I love that Epson includes an additional bulb and mount in the 6050.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## rollon1980

CZ Eddie said:


> I asked a similar question but never got a response.
> I believe the 5050UB is capable of 8, 10 and 12 bit.
> 
> But per my preliminary research for MadVR HTPC purposes at least, it's best to choose 8 bit to reduce processing overhead.
> And 10/12 bit would not provide any better picture quality.
> This is just my understanding of what I've read so far. Someone with more experience in the area may prove me wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> Just a reminder to folks in general that the 5050UB replacement bulbs can be found very cheap from quality 3rd party sources.
> While the JVC bulbs are usually $$$.


SDR: 8bit
HDR: 10bit
Dolby Vision: 12bit

Epson is saying in their specs that their LCD panels are 12bit natively. I don’t know if anyone picked up on this? If this is true, that would be significant as very few consumer products on the market would be (most max out at 10bit with dithering including the JVCs). There’s no dithering on the Epson. One of the first things I noticed coming from a JVC.

ps. Yes, lamps are about 5-7x more costly on JVC now dependent on region! Here in Oz:
AU$139 for Epson
AU$1000 for JVC.


----------



## ShadowBoy

mbroadus said:


> I thought of that at first but would like keep the front of the room free of furniture since the 3 windows are floor to ceiling with a fireplace off to one side.
> 
> Here’s a pic...please disregard furniture placement because everything was thrown to this side of the room until the kitchen/dining room is finished.
> 
> I’m currently looking at a screen innovations slate screen with 1.2 gain made for high ambient light.


Can't tell exact measurements from the picture but it does look like a fairly short distance from the back wall by the stairs to the wall behind the tv. You have an entertainment unit under the tv so an ultra short throw projector sitting on that could throw up a 120" image. With the WAF consideration that would be your best option. I would also consider laying your left/right speakers sideways on the floor if it allows you to get a wider screen in there. I've tried this in the past and it had little effect on the sound quality of the speakers. you'd have to check a throw distance calculator to determine how large an image you could get with the length of the room, if in fact the wall with the gear shaped mirror is you back wall. Even an Epson or a JVC wouldn't shoot a massive image from that distance, I wouldn't think. Might be wrong. Others can chime in here. Here's a link to a new ultra short throw projector review. watch


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## CZ Eddie

rollon1980 said:


> AU$139 for Epson
> AU$1000 for JVC.


Wanna bet there is a someone out there with a high-mileage, degraded lamp in their $6K JVC thinking "At least my projector is better than an Epson". But they can't afford a new lamp.

Meanwhile, someone with a $3k Epson just hit 100 hours on a new $150 OEM replacement lamp and their contrast performance is kicking dirt on the JVC as a result.


----------



## jaredmwright

ShadowBoy said:


> Can't tell exact measurements from the picture but it does look like a fairly short distance from the back wall by the stairs to the wall behind the tv. You have an entertainment unit under the tv so an ultra short throw projector sitting on that could throw up a 120" image. With the WAF consideration that would be your best option. I would also consider laying your left/right speakers sideways on the floor if it allows you to get a wider screen in there. I've tried this in the past and it had little effect on the sound quality of the speakers. you'd have to check a throw distance calculator to determine how large an image you could get with the length of the room, if in fact the wall with the gear shaped mirror is you back wall. Even an Epson or a JVC wouldn't shoot a massive image from that distance, I wouldn't think. Might be wrong. Others can chime in here. Here's a link to a new ultra short throw projector review. watch


I am with ShadowBoy on this. I actually have my speakers horizontal under my screen for maximum screen size since I don't have a perforated screen. I may upgrade in the future, but am completely happy with the sound as is and second that option.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Tapatalk


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## jedi1982

CZ Eddie said:


> I asked a similar question but never got a response.
> I believe the 5050UB is capable of 8, 10 and 12 bit.
> 
> But per my preliminary research for MadVR HTPC purposes at least, it's best to choose 8 bit to reduce processing overhead.
> And 10/12 bit would not provide any better picture quality.
> This is just my understanding of what I've read so far. Someone with more experience in the area may prove me wrong.


Thank you sir!


----------



## mbroadus

ShadowBoy said:


> Can't tell exact measurements from the picture but it does look like a fairly short distance from the back wall by the stairs to the wall behind the tv. You have an entertainment unit under the tv so an ultra short throw projector sitting on that could throw up a 120" image. With the WAF consideration that would be your best option. I would also consider laying your left/right speakers sideways on the floor if it allows you to get a wider screen in there. I've tried this in the past and it had little effect on the sound quality of the speakers. you'd have to check a throw distance calculator to determine how large an image you could get with the length of the room, if in fact the wall with the gear shaped mirror is you back wall. Even an Epson or a JVC wouldn't shoot a massive image from that distance, I wouldn't think. Might be wrong. Others can chime in here. Here's a link to a new ultra short throw projector review. watch


I only posted the pic so people could see the windows. I may not have been clear in a previous post but I will be redoing this room once the kitchen/dining room is completed. The tv is currently in a temporary location and will be moved to a different room and the couches and AV equipment reconfigured to make way for a projector with the screen coming down in front of the window. The window will have blackout curtains. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

CZ Eddie said:


> Wanna bet there is a someone out there with a high-mileage, degraded lamp in their $6K JVC thinking "At least my projector is better than an Epson". But they can't afford a new lamp.
> 
> Meanwhile, someone with a $3k Epson just hit 100 hours on a new $150 OEM replacement lamp and their contrast performance is kicking dirt on the JVC as a result.


Let's put it this way: In HDR I am pushing almost twice the number of lumens than on my 1800 lumens JVC due to how I calibrated it (took the time plus trial and error and calibrated Dynamic for HDR which looks stunning). I can also have it bright on SDR if need be as it's a lot more flexible than a JVC.

And to top it all off, I have TWO spare lamps and I can swap lamps every 1000-1200 hours to keep the projector operating in top form. I may have a top of the line JVC again, but I would probably keep an Epson around, especially for gaming. I won't buy another JVC until the new chassis is more mature, however. ;-)


----------



## Musty Hustla

I'm considering trying 3D with my projector. It appears that the XPAND x105 are popular here. Do I get the IR or RF version?


----------



## ShadowBoy

mbroadus said:


> I only posted the pic so people could see the windows. I may not have been clear in a previous post but I will be redoing this room once the kitchen/dining room is completed. The tv is currently in a temporary location and will be moved to a different room and the couches and AV equipment reconfigured to make way for a projector with the screen coming down in front of the window. The window will have blackout curtains.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Gotcha. however, if you do consider ultra short throw projectors, this Projector Central article may help.https://www.projectorcentral.com/ultra-short-throw-projectors.cfm


----------



## mbroadus

ShadowBoy said:


> Gotcha. however, if you do consider ultra short throw projectors, this Projector Central article may help.https://www.projectorcentral.com/ultra-short-throw-projectors.cfm


Thanks...I appreciate the help!

I showed my wife the short throw projectors with the salamander cabinets so she knows all design options but she does not want any furniture in front of the window. Plus, the ability to control lights using Hue, dimmers and blackout curtains should be fine for the 2600 lumen 6050. I’ve been using the light meter app and I’m getting readings between 3-9 FC but I’m not sure how accurate it is. I would be a little more worried if I were buying a Sony or JVC rated at 1500/1600 lumens.

I believe it will come down to getting the proper screen.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## cky2354

Musty Hustla said:


> I'm considering trying 3D with my projector. It appears that the XPAND x105 are popular here. Do I get the IR or RF version?


You will get the RF version of it. It's about $38 on Amazon. These glasses work wonders to the 3D with this Epson! It's the best 3D experience I ever had anywhere.. and I even have 65" LG OLED TV that does 3D in passive but the sheer size I have on the Epson surpasses it. You won't be disappointed.


----------



## brettpjames57

joms said:


> Anyone? I just want to ensure that the 5050UB/6050UB can do this function. Thanks.


2nd what the other guy said.. i got a 5050 recently and it comes back after switching between 16:9 to 2.35:1 a little out each time, 99% of the time too high in the vertical plane. bit annoying but then i lean back and marvel at the screen each time and forget about it


----------



## psraj

With an Oppo 203, should I be using 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 mode with Epson 5050UB? What the difference between 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 ?


----------



## noob00224

psraj said:


> With an Oppo 203, should I be using 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 mode with Epson 5050UB? What the difference between 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 ?


4.2.0 is standard for movies, 4.4.4 for games. 
Movies/TV downsample the chroma channel to save bandwidth, which is what the 2 is.









Chroma Subsampling: 4:4:4 vs 4:2:2 vs 4:2:0


What is Chroma Subsampling and where is this visible? Chroma subsampling is a type of compression that reduces the color information in a signal in favor of luminance data.




www.rtings.com


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## fatallerror

hdtvtest review if anyone cares


----------



## cky2354

fatallerror said:


> hdtvtest review if anyone cares


I love this guy..... I have him subscribed for couple years now but he rarely does front projectors reviews..maybe UST ones and I don't think he is really into HT. He is more like professional color calibrator for TVs. Regardless, I'm glad our Epson got good reviews from this guy.


----------



## CZ Eddie

I just ordered an Xrite i1 Display Pro colorimeter to calibrate my 5050UB for use with an HTPC, which is my only source. 
I use MadVR and have a ~124" cinemascope screen. 
What guides are you folks using to learn this process? 
Or, which guide best matches the 5050UB and tone-mapping for HDR?


----------



## CZ Eddie

What port does the 5050UB listen to for IP Control commands from a remote control?









*Edit n/m*
I called Epson tech support. (562) 276-4394
Was only only hold for ~five minutes.
Shaquille O'Neal popped in to say hello during that time.
Actually, he said "hello" and gave a little speech every 30-60 seconds.
It got kinda old after awhile.

Anyhow, they sent me a helpful looking PDF with the info.
*TCP 4352 port *
I attached the pdf to this post in case anyone else needs it.

*EDIT 2:*
Apparently this is an industry standard thing called "*PJLink*" and I have not been succesful in getting it to work with my remote yet.


----------



## Lowsub

Can I ask a stupid question? Sorry for bargin in to the conversation and hijacking it so apologies folks but dont know where else to turn so be kind.

I am buying the Epson EH-TW9400 which is the UK model and the USA equivalent of that would be the 6050UB

With the Epson mentioned above both having lens shift and I have a 135’’ diagonal 16:9 ALR screen ratio would I be able to zoom out say a film in a 2.35:1 aspect ratio with the black bars top and bottom to lose the black bars and still retain the full screen or would that mean I lose information on the right and left side of the screen.

I can switch back to 16:9 when required with the lens memory function. I think a guy uploaded a video showing just that but wanted to know this is an actual reality as I am not correctly sure maybe someone with more experienced than my good sef can answer me regarding the above.

Thank you one and all.


----------



## brettpjames57

Lowsub said:


> Can I ask a stupid question? Sorry for bargin in to the conversation and hijacking it so apologies folks but dont know where else to turn so be kind.
> 
> I am buying the Epson EH-TW9400 which is the UK model and the USA equivalent of that would be the 6050UB
> 
> With the Epson mentioned above both having lens shift and I have a 135’’ diagonal 16:9 ALR screen ratio would I be able to zoom out say a film in a 2.35:1 aspect ratio with the black bars top and bottom to lose the black bars and still retain the full screen or would that mean I lose information on the right and left side of the screen.
> 
> I can switch back to 16:9 when required with the lens memory function. I think a guy uploaded a video showing just that but wanted to know this is an actual reality as I am not correctly sure maybe someone with more experienced than my good sef can answer me regarding the above.
> 
> Thank you one and all.


yes, i do it with the 5050 but the memory isn't exact - its off a little bit each time


----------



## CZ Eddie

Lowsub said:


> Can I ask a stupid question? Sorry for bargin in to the conversation and hijacking it so apologies folks but dont know where else to turn so be kind.
> 
> I am buying the Epson EH-TW9400 which is the UK model and the USA equivalent of that would be the 6050UB
> 
> With the Epson mentioned above both having lens shift and I have a 135’’ diagonal 16:9 ALR screen ratio would I be able to zoom out say a film in a 2.35:1 aspect ratio with the black bars top and bottom to lose the black bars and still retain the full screen or would that mean I lose information on the right and left side of the screen.


Ask any question you want in this thread, if it has anything to do with your projector.
I mean, if it's the same thing as a 5050UB then this thread is for you too.

If I understand what you're asking, you want to zoom IN so that the top & bottom of a 2.35 movie fill the 16:9 screen from top to bottom?
Then yes, you will lose the left & right ends of the image as they spill off the screen surface.
Assuming you want to retain aspect ration anyhow. I can't stand looking at squished images.

Someone on a Zoom meeting today had a picture of themself instead of a camera. And the picture was squished. He had a really really long forehead.


----------



## Lowsub

Thank you to brettpjames57, & CZ Eddie for your reply suppose I’ll have to see how much left and right gets lost the reason I ask is because this guy uploaded a video to You Tube and it looks like he has a 16:9 screen ratio I doubt looking at his screen is a 2:35:1 screen as it does not look wide enough. Anyhow he zoomed a 2:35 image out to get rid of the black bars top and bottom and didn’t lose any detail on the right- or left-hand side.


Video link below. 

Can anyone elaborate as to what you assume is this guy’s screen ratio because if it is 16:9 then this projector the Epson is a fantastic unit and it will enable me to watch 2:35 ratio films full screen without the black bars how does he zoom out and not cut off the picture as you say overspill into the left and right hand side wall as it seem to focus perfectly but without the black bars top and bottom this has me stocked to say the least. Can anyone elaborate further what’s going on here not unless there is hockey poker going on with the video editing.






Again, I appreciate the reply so thank you one and all.


----------



## Pebaar

Lowsub said:


> Thank you to brettpjames57, & CZ Eddie for your reply suppose I’ll have to see how much left and right gets lost the reason I ask is because this guy uploaded a video to You Tube and it looks like he has a 16:9 screen ratio I doubt looking at his screen is a 2:35:1 screen as it does not look wide enough. Anyhow he zoomed a 2:35 image out to get rid of the black bars top and bottom and didn’t lose any detail on the right- or left-hand side.
> 
> 
> Video link below.
> 
> Can anyone elaborate as to what you assume is this guy’s screen ratio because if it is 16:9 then this projector the Epson is a fantastic unit and it will enable me to watch 2:35 ratio films full screen without the black bars how does he zoom out and not cut off the picture as you say overspill into the left and right hand side wall as it seem to focus perfectly but without the black bars top and bottom this has me stocked to say the least. Can anyone elaborate further what’s going on here not unless there is hockey poker going on with the video editing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I appreciate the reply so thank you one and all.


Massive black bar at the bottom is how:


----------



## rekbones

Lowsub said:


> Thank you to brettpjames57, & CZ Eddie for your reply suppose I’ll have to see how much left and right gets lost the reason I ask is because this guy uploaded a video to You Tube and it looks like he has a 16:9 screen ratio I doubt looking at his screen is a 2:35:1 screen as it does not look wide enough. Anyhow he zoomed a 2:35 image out to get rid of the black bars top and bottom and didn’t lose any detail on the right- or left-hand side.
> 
> 
> Video link below.
> 
> Can anyone elaborate as to what you assume is this guy’s screen ratio because if it is 16:9 then this projector the Epson is a fantastic unit and it will enable me to watch 2:35 ratio films full screen without the black bars how does he zoom out and not cut off the picture as you say overspill into the left and right hand side wall as it seem to focus perfectly but without the black bars top and bottom this has me stocked to say the least. Can anyone elaborate further what’s going on here not unless there is hockey poker going on with the video editing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I appreciate the reply so thank you one and all.


You can't fit a round peg in a square hole (you can but it either won't fill the hole or you need to modify the peg). AR is what it is you can't fit a 2:35 image on a 16:9 screen without black bars or losing information unless you distort the image in some form.


----------



## fredworld

It's not "Zoom." It's Lens Shift being used.Shifting the image Up or Down will retain aspect ratio. Some use a movable Matte to hide the black bar.


----------



## sabitu

Anybody use the 2019 Nvidia Shield or Shield Pro with the 5050ub? I don't know whether to use the Shields 4k AI upscaling or the Epson's 4k enhancement. I'm assuming enabling both at the same time would not be recommended.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Just finished installing my new TW9400 (6050UB) and it is AWESOME.. It was a breeze to install,and i have never had anything with motorized optics,so that is really nice.. However, the high lamp mode is insanely noisy.. It is louder than my aircon vent on full fan mode, luckily the medium setting is bright enough.. I would have liked though to be able to get the last few brightness out of it in 3D mode,but the fan is just too loud for me..
Also,the startup takes like 90 seconds,and whenever i start a film using my Dune it takes a few seconds for the image to actually come on screen.. I have ordered a new HDMI cable,as i get black screen playing 4k content,so hopefully that will also help with the speed of image start.

I am contemplating a proper calibration for this,however i would like to know 1 thing, do you always calibrate to the D65 color temperature? I REALLY don´t like the piss yellow image of D65,and alwasy run my screens on D80 or colder.. Can you do a "proper" screen calibration to a different color temperature than the standard,or does that defeat the purpose of a proper calibration?

I am really happy i opted to buy this one instead of the Optoma UHZ65/LV


----------



## Jeff Sweeney

Hi, any recommendations on a good mount for my new 5050UB?


----------



## jaredmwright

sabitu said:


> Anybody use the 2019 Nvidia Shield or Shield Pro with the 5050ub? I don't know whether to use the Shields 4k AI upscaling or the Epson's 4k enhancement. I'm assuming enabling both at the same time would not be recommended.


I am using it with AI enabled. I prefer the Nvidia 4k AI upscaling. Let the company that does it best handle it. The projector IMHO does well with being fed 4k HDR AI upscaled with the latest firmware, so that is what I do. If you feed 1080P to the projector it will display 1080P, where the AI upscaled enhances the image and the projector honors that resolution with the 4k enhancement which I find great.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## sabitu

jaredmwright said:


> I am using it with AI enabled. I prefer the Nvidia 4k AI upscaling. Let the company that does it best handle it. The projector IMHO does well with being fed 4k HDR AI upscaled with the latest firmware, so that is what I do. If you feed 1080P to the projector it will display 1080P, where the AI upscaled enhances the image and the projector honors that resolution with the 4k enhancement which I find great.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Thanks! So are you saying that you leave the Epson 4k enhancement enabled while also having the Shield AI upscaling enabled? Or just the Shield AI enabled?


----------



## jaredmwright

sabitu said:


> Thanks! So are you saying that you leave the Epson 4k enhancement enabled while also having the Shield AI upscaling enabled? Or just the Shield AI enabled?


Correct, leave both enabled. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Digital2k10

Today I noticed a magenta/pink bar at the top right half edge of the screen. I have a 5050UB with the latest 1.03 firmware. I am attaching a picture I took to illustrate. I have about 230 hours on the projector and purchased it sometime towards the end of last year. Does anyone have an idea about what could be causing this? It's visible with multiple sources as well as the projector's internal pattern view which leads me to believe the issue is with the projector itself. After a bit of research on google it seems like this type of issues has popped up for folks before and the resolutions involved replacement units. Has anyone seen anything like this with the 5050UB?
View attachment 3032365


Edit: Called Epson Support and described the problem and they are sending me another unit. Definitely a disappointing experience overall but their service seems to be on point. The rep couldn't confirm if the replacement unit will be new or refurb/as new but said the 2 year warranty will still apply. Anyone have experience with refurb units?


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Jeff Sweeney said:


> Hi, any recommendations on a good mount for my new 5050UB?


I use a Chief RPAU it is really good and versatile,and is very low profile..


----------



## SteveS78

sabitu said:


> Thanks! So are you saying that you leave the Epson 4k enhancement enabled while also having the Shield AI upscaling enabled? Or just the Shield AI enabled?


I did not know that Nvidia Shield has a 4K upscaling feature? I know the Shield can do 4K natively. You are saying it takes a standard 1080p signal and upscales it before it leaves the unit? Where is the feature located to turn it on and off?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

SteveS78 said:


> I did not know that Nvidia Shield has a 4K upscaling feature? I know the Shield can do 4K natively. You are saying it takes a standard 1080p signal and upscales it before it leaves the unit? Where is the feature located to turn it on and off?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


if the Shield is already upscaling then your first two adjustments in the Image Enhancement menu will be greyed out. Check to see if this is the case.


----------



## sabitu

SteveS78 said:


> I did not know that Nvidia Shield has a 4K upscaling feature? I know the Shield can do 4K natively. You are saying it takes a standard 1080p signal and upscales it before it leaves the unit? Where is the feature located to turn it on and off?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Correct, the 2019 Shield and Shield Pro can upscale the image before it reaches the display. This feature is listed as "AI Upscaling" near the top of the settings menu. It's only available in the newest 2019 Shield models, not the older ones.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Lowsub said:


> Thank you to brettpjames57, & CZ Eddie for your reply suppose I’ll have to see how much left and right gets lost the reason I ask is because this guy uploaded a video to You Tube and it looks like he has a 16:9 screen ratio I doubt looking at his screen is a 2:35:1 screen as it does not look wide enough. Anyhow he zoomed a 2:35 image out to get rid of the black bars top and bottom and didn’t lose any detail on the right- or left-hand side.
> 
> 
> Video link below.
> 
> Can anyone elaborate as to what you assume is this guy’s screen ratio because if it is 16:9 then this projector the Epson is a fantastic unit and it will enable me to watch 2:35 ratio films full screen without the black bars how does he zoom out and not cut off the picture as you say overspill into the left and right hand side wall as it seem to focus perfectly but without the black bars top and bottom this has me stocked to say the least. Can anyone elaborate further what’s going on here not unless there is hockey poker going on with the video editing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, I appreciate the reply so thank you one and all.


Epson feature should be called "Lens Ship Memory" and replace that p in Ship with a "t" new avs board now beeps out words of true meaning...still upsets me with that crap Epson. So I just statically use my mask and 2:35 for everything.


----------



## Spyle311

I finally installed firmware 1.03 today, and I gotta say, I still find the picture far better when using the Panasonic UB820 to do the tone mapping and output SDR BT.2020. The whole picture just seems more washed out when feeding HDR to the Epson, even with the HDR slider maxed out. I'm sure 1.03 has improved it, but I would still recommend this player and setting for anyone using this projector.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Has anyone ever tried to replace the original fans with low noise ones? I know i would lose warranty but if it was fairly easy i would really consider it,as it is just way too loud.. I dont understand why these companies dont use low noise fans to begin with,it is one of the most annoying aspects of projectors,and a problem a lot of people complain about,and it would only raise price by a fraction,which i am certain most users would pay if the noise ceiling were under 25-28db on high mode...
And Sony for example, has no problems with noise,as my previous 65ES was inaudible even on high lamp mode..
The projector is mounted directly above my seating position like 4 feet away,and even on medium i can hear it unless i crank my system to like -10db


----------



## noob00224

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Has anyone ever tried to replace the original fans with low noise ones? I know i would lose warranty but if it was fairly easy i would really consider it,as it is just way too loud.. I dont understand why these companies dont use low noise fans to begin with,it is one of the most annoying aspects of projectors,and a problem a lot of people complain about...
> And Sony for example, has no problems with noise,as my previous 65ES was inaudible even on high lamp mode..
> The projector is mounted directly above my seating position like 4 feet away,and even on medium i can hear it unless i crank my system to like -10db


The fan would have to have the same airflow as the one you're replacing.

Better get a hush box.


----------



## jbnpaul

Spyle311 said:


> I finally installed firmware 1.03 today, and I gotta say, I still find the picture far better when using the Panasonic UB820 to do the tone mapping and output SDR BT.2020. The whole picture just seems more washed out when feeding HDR to the Epson, even with the HDR slider maxed out. I'm sure 1.03 has improved it, but I would still recommend this player and setting for anyone using this projector.


I have a 5040. And my friend has 5050.

HDR is definitely not washed out in these. You can clearly see the deeper colors and dynamic range. Can you please double check the the projector is using HDR settings when playing HDR? HDR content looks washed out with SDR settings.

But HDR is definitely dark in these. So much so that I prefer SDR 2020 with our projectors. And madVR does a better job here ... but UB 820 should be pretty good as well.... it’s much cheaper and easy to use since you don’t have to step through any of the pc setup and configuration. And the projector throws away half of those pixels. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

noob00224 said:


> The fan would have to have the same airflow as the one you're replacing.
> 
> Better get a hush box.


Ofcourse, but that was not my question though.. Has anyone replaced stock fans for low noise ones?

A hushbox would be impossible to fit in the room i use,and i would have heat problems instead of noise problems..


----------



## olegg

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Ofcourse, but that was not my question though.. Has anyone replaced stock fans for low noise ones?
> 
> A hushbox would be impossible to fit in the room i use,and i would have heat problems instead of noise problems..


No idea as well, I replaced stock fan on iNuke 3000 with Noktua fan and the difference incomparable, what comes to mind that they do not care as much ... but yeah that would void the warranty


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

olegg said:


> No idea as well, I replaced stock fan on iNuke 3000 with Noktua fan and the difference incomparable, what comes to mind that they do not care as much ... but yeah that would void the warranty


Not sure you can directly compare a projector and an amp. Unless the epson fans are stock fans of a certain size with rpms controlled by the projector, I am reluctant to open it up without some sort of knowledge on what to find inside fan wise..The projector is brand new,had it been outside warranty i wouldnt hesitate.

One would think there would be a market for aftermarket installs of "low noise" kits and replacements of fans. I guess most users either install the projectors in seperate rooms/hush boxes or well away from MLP


----------



## Gellert1

I've tried twice to update my firmware to 1.03 and both times the projector powers off after 5 seconds, instead of the 75 seconds the manual says it takes. Checking version info confirms no firmware was updated. No idea what the problem is. The USB thumb-drive was formatted wiped clean using exFAT32 and the firmware .bin file was at the top root directory.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Gellert1 said:


> I've tried twice to update my firmware to 1.03 and both times the projector powers off after 5 seconds, instead of the 75 seconds the manual says it takes. Checking version info confirms no firmware was updated. No idea what the problem is. The USB thumb-drive was formatted wiped clean using exFAT32 and the firmware .bin file was at the top root directory.


Mine did the same as the onboard fw was already 1.03


----------



## Gellert1

My firmware is the original 1.00 - so my situation isn't the same.

Update - I got it to work with an old USB 2.0 stick formatted to 32K. Using a USB 3.0 stick at 128K isn't an option. I wish Epson would give exact specifics.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Gellert1 said:


> My firmware is the original 1.00 - so my situation isn't the same.
> 
> Update - I got it to work with an old USB 2.0 stick formatted to 32K. Using a USB 3.0 stick at 128K isn't an option. I wish Epson would give exact specifics.


They do. The update pdf states fat32 needs to be used..


----------



## Shinji Mikami

Hi : ) I got a question. Anybody uses "Bright Cinema" mode? I got the 6050UB (TW9400 european model in my case) since 1 year ago and always used "Natural" or "Cinema Digital" modes and copy some calibration setups from expert people with very similar rooms like mine,

Happy with it but "shadow detail" always was my lost war. Tried a lot of changes but nothing. Last night playing with the Epson and my reference cinema scenes I selected "Bright Cinema" and a lot of shadow detail app appeared from nowhere and keeping deep blacks as same as "Natural" and "Digital Cinema" modes.

Yes, the rest of the picture quality (color, skin tones, RGB, grayscale, etc) is different and isn't "pure cinema" like other ones, But I think that calibrating that "Bright Cinema" mode we could reach a very stunning image quality, with bonus extra like shadow datail is.

So I repeat the question: Anybody uses Bright Cinema" mode? If someone use it, Any calibration setup? Thank you : )


----------



## Gellert1

I know it says FAT32 - you're not understanding what I meant. Never mind.


----------



## mon2479

Shinji Mikami said:


> Hi : ) I got a question. Anybody uses "Bright Cinema" mode? I got the 6050UB (TW9400 european model in my case) since 1 year ago and always used "Natural" or "Cinema Digital" modes and copy some calibration setups from expert people with very similar rooms like mine,
> 
> Happy with it but "shadow detail" always was my lost war. Tried a lot of changes but nothing. Last night playing with the Epson and my reference cinema scenes I selected "Bright Cinema" and a lot of shadow detail app appeared from nowhere and keeping deep blacks as same as "Natural" and "Digital Cinema" modes.
> 
> Yes, the rest of the picture quality (color, skin tones, RGB, grayscale, etc) is different and isn't "pure cinema" like other ones, But I think that calibrating that "Bright Cinema" mode we could reach a very stunning image quality, with bonus extra like shadow datail is.
> 
> So I repeat the question: Anybody uses Bright Cinema" mode? If someone use it, Any calibration setup? Thank you : )


There is a bright cinema mode settings posted in here more towards the back that I found and use. I really like the inky blacks I get and the PQ is really good. I use it for 4k and sdr. Give it a try


----------



## psraj

Watched Star Trek Beyond in my 5050UB yesterday. Pairing with my Panasonic DP-UB9000, all I can say is WOWW!!! I was floored by the image. The entire movie looked so rich and super sharp, with brilliant HDR details. Th IMAX scenes were out of this world, they looked so crisp and sharp. I am so glad I got the 5050UB


----------



## biglen

Shinji Mikami said:


> Hi : ) I got a question. Anybody uses "Bright Cinema" mode? I got the 6050UB (TW9400 european model in my case) since 1 year ago and always used "Natural" or "Cinema Digital" modes and copy some calibration setups from expert people with very similar rooms like mine,
> 
> Happy with it but "shadow detail" always was my lost war. Tried a lot of changes but nothing. Last night playing with the Epson and my reference cinema scenes I selected "Bright Cinema" and a lot of shadow detail app appeared from nowhere and keeping deep blacks as same as "Natural" and "Digital Cinema" modes.
> 
> Yes, the rest of the picture quality (color, skin tones, RGB, grayscale, etc) is different and isn't "pure cinema" like other ones, But I think that calibrating that "Bright Cinema" mode we could reach a very stunning image quality, with bonus extra like shadow datail is.
> 
> So I repeat the question: Anybody uses Bright Cinema" mode? If someone use it, Any calibration setup? Thank you : )


The guy who professionally calibrated my 5050, set my HDR up using Bright Cinema. My picture looks amazing. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

mon2479 said:


> There is a bright cinema mode settings posted in here more towards the back that I found and use. I really like the inky blacks I get and the PQ is really good. I use it for 4k and sdr. Give it a try


Could you link to the post? I tried searching but couldn't find the calibration you mention.

Also, is there a way to get projector to auto load a memory save for 1080p/4k input signal?


----------



## John Meno

Does anyone find that the 6050 is very sensitive with it's HDMI connectivity? I upgraded all my HDMI cables to the highest quality and often I have to turn my preamp off and on again multiple times for it to recognize the signal from my TIVO and also one of my BD players.


----------



## Shinji Mikami

mon2479 said:


> There is a bright cinema mode settings posted in here more towards the back that I found and use. I really like the inky blacks I get and the PQ is really good. I use it for 4k and sdr. Give it a try


Thank you for your answer. I was searching for those settings but I couldn't find it. Please, Can you link it or tell us the post number?


----------



## ScudDawg

I am also looking for them, the search function for this is rough.


----------



## Luminated67

John Meno said:


> Does anyone find that the 6050 is very sensitive with it's HDMI connectivity? I upgraded all my HDMI cables to the highest quality and often I have to turn my preamp off and on again multiple times for it to recognize the signal from my TIVO and also one of my BD players.


When you say you have upgraded your HDMI cables, exactly what make and type of cables did you buy?


----------



## mon2479

ScudDawg said:


> I am also looking for them, the search function for this is rough.


Guys.....its in this epson 5050 thread, start at the end here and work your way to the front, page by page, the settings are more towards the end of this thread. It's worth the hunt


----------



## mon2479

I found it on the very first try
Merry friggen Christmas 
Thank you to the person who did this for all of us to enjoy!!
Dynamic HDR v2
(more accurate greyscale and gamma)

picture mode: dynamic
Color temp: 7
Skin tone: 4
Custom color temp:
Offset R: 49
Offset G: 49
Offset B: 49
(Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
Gain R: 50
Gain G: 40 (!!!!!!!!!!)
Gain B: 50

Grayscale:
8 0:0:0
7 22:-11:0
6 7:0:0
5 -1:0:-2
4 -5:0:-5
3 -5:0:-3
2 -3:0:-2
1 0:0:0

Gamma: custom
Custom points:
1: 0
2: -3 (change from -3 to -4 or -5 according to preference for near black gamma)
3: -3
4: -4
5: -5
6: -6
7: -8
8: -16
9: 0


RGBCMY:
R: 60:37:42
G: 55:35:47
B:60:34:53
😄 0:45:35
M: 60:49:36
Y: 58:50:48

High Lamp / medium lamp works too

HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.

Dynamic iris: NORMAL if using offsets at 48
High speed is ok if using offsets at 49.
(Best to switch it off and let the lamp warm up for 5mins before movie starts then switch it back on for movie)


----------



## Shinji Mikami

mon2479 said:


> I found it on the very first try
> Merry friggen Christmas
> Thank you to the person who did this for all of us to enjoy!!
> Dynamic HDR v2
> (more accurate greyscale and gamma)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 40 (!!!!!!!!!!)
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 22:-11:0
> 6 7:0:0
> 5 -1:0:-2
> 4 -5:0:-5
> 3 -5:0:-3
> 2 -3:0:-2
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 1: 0
> 2: -3 (change from -3 to -4 or -5 according to preference for near black gamma)
> 3: -3
> 4: -4
> 5: -5
> 6: -6
> 7: -8
> 8: -16
> 9: 0
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> 😄 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL if using offsets at 48
> High speed is ok if using offsets at 49.
> (Best to switch it off and let the lamp warm up for 5mins before movie starts then switch it back on for movie)


Thanks : ) But I meant setup for "Bright Cinema" mode, not "Dynamic" mode. I'm trying to set-up my TW9400 (6050UB) under this image mode. : )


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

mon2479 said:


> I found it on the very first try
> Merry friggen Christmas
> Thank you to the person who did this for all of us to enjoy!!
> Dynamic HDR v2
> (more accurate greyscale and gamma)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 40 (!!!!!!!!!!)
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 22:-11:0
> 6 7:0:0
> 5 -1:0:-2
> 4 -5:0:-5
> 3 -5:0:-3
> 2 -3:0:-2
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 1: 0
> 2: -3 (change from -3 to -4 or -5 according to preference for near black gamma)
> 3: -3
> 4: -4
> 5: -5
> 6: -6
> 7: -8
> 8: -16
> 9: 0
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> 😄 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL if using offsets at 48
> High speed is ok if using offsets at 49.
> (Best to switch it off and let the lamp warm up for 5mins before movie starts then switch it back on for movie)


Yeah, this is the wrong one.
User is referring to a bright cinema calibration, which is the one we are looking for.


----------



## John Meno

Luminated67 said:


> When you say you have upgraded your HDMI cables, exactly what make and type of cables did you buy?
> 
> I chose the Zeskit Cinemaplus High Speed 4K HDCP 2.2. Here is a link below. I read good things about it.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078LTNDZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Luminated67

Hate to tell you but your cable is your problem as is always the case. What you need to buy is an Optical HDMI cable.






Amazon.com: Shuliancable Fiber Optic HDMI Cable， HDMI Optical Cable Support [email protected]/4:4:4 HDR HDCP High Speed 18Gbps HDMI Lead 5m10m 15m 20m 30m 50m (16Ft/5M): Industrial & Scientific


Buy Shuliancable Fiber Optic HDMI Cable， HDMI Optical Cable Support [email protected]/4:4:4 HDR HDCP High Speed 18Gbps HDMI Lead 5m10m 15m 20m 30m 50m (16Ft/5M): HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## John Meno

Luminated67 said:


> Hate to tell you but your cable is your problem as is always the case. What you need to buy is an Optical HDMI cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Shuliancable Fiber Optic HDMI Cable， HDMI Optical Cable Support [email protected]/4:4:4 HDR HDCP High Speed 18Gbps HDMI Lead 5m10m 15m 20m 30m 50m (16Ft/5M): Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> Buy Shuliancable Fiber Optic HDMI Cable， HDMI Optical Cable Support [email protected]/4:4:4 HDR HDCP High Speed 18Gbps HDMI Lead 5m10m 15m 20m 30m 50m (16Ft/5M): HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


From what I understand Optic cables are for long runs. I have monoprice optic cables for the long run between my Processor and my Oppo BD player to my projector. For the short run cables I upgraded to the cables I mentioned above.


----------



## Luminated67

John Meno said:


> From what I understand Optic cables are for long runs. I have monoprice optic cables for the long run between my Processor and my Oppo BD player to my projector. For the short run cables I upgraded to the cables I mentioned above.


Is it possible to try an optical cable between the two which are cause an issue to see if this cures it.


----------



## ScudDawg

I hope this is the correct post we are looking for: #7768

*rollon1980
Registered*
Joined Jun 14, 2010
353 Posts
#7,768 • 2 mo ago
Ok guys. Found the correct pattern to calibrate colour luminance for HDR in Dynamic so reposting the settings with the correct color luminance values and some gamma tweaks that should make it work for more people without black crush.

If you use this mode already, you need to update: RGBCMY values and maybe gamma values (but you can use whichever version works best for gamma for you)

picture mode: dynamic
Color temp: 7
Skin tone: 4
Custom color temp:
Offset R: 49
Offset G: 49
Offset B: 49
(Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
Gain R: 50
Gain G: 50
Gain B: 50

Grayscale:
8 0:0:0
7 24:-25:0
6 11:-15:0
5 6:-10:0
4 4:-6:0
3 2:-4:0
2 0:-1:1
1 0:0:0

Gamma: custom
Custom points:
2nd from left: -5
all other gamma values default


RGBCMY:
R: 60:37:42
G: 55:35:47
B:60:34:53
C: 0:45:35
M: 60:49:36
Y: 58:50:48

High Lamp / medium lamp works too

HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.

Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)


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## Tsunamijhoe

ScudDawg said:


> I hope this is the correct post we are looking for: #7768
> 
> *rollon1980
> Registered*
> Joined Jun 14, 2010
> 353 Posts
> #7,768 • 2 mo ago
> Ok guys. Found the correct pattern to calibrate colour luminance for HDR in Dynamic so reposting the settings with the correct color luminance values and some gamma tweaks that should make it work for more people without black crush.
> 
> If you use this mode already, you need to update: RGBCMY values and maybe gamma values (but you can use whichever version works best for gamma for you)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 50
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 24:-25:0
> 6 11:-15:0
> 5 6:-10:0
> 4 4:-6:0
> 3 2:-4:0
> 2 0:-1:1
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 2nd from left: -5
> all other gamma values default
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> C: 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)


No,again this is the same incorrect one as posted above..

It is supposedly based on the CINEMA BRIGHT mode, NOT Dynamic


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## Unkabin

Hi all, new 5050UB owner here. Before buying the 5050 I tried out the HC3800. With my setup, AppleTV running though an Onkyo receiver, the 3800 remote, out of the box, functioned to control my AppleTV. With the 5050, this is not happening. Does the Epson remote work for others too control your AppleTV?

Also, my screen has a USB remote trigger. Worked correctly with the 3800, but with the 5050, it only triggers the screen to drop when the projector is turned on. It does not trigger it back up when I turn off the projector. Odd.


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## Shinji Mikami

ScudDawg said:


> I hope this is the correct post we are looking for: #7768
> 
> *rollon1980
> Registered*
> Joined Jun 14, 2010
> 353 Posts
> #7,768 • 2 mo ago
> Ok guys. Found the correct pattern to calibrate colour luminance for HDR in Dynamic so reposting the settings with the correct color luminance values and some gamma tweaks that should make it work for more people without black crush.
> 
> If you use this mode already, you need to update: RGBCMY values and maybe gamma values (but you can use whichever version works best for gamma for you)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 50
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 24:-25:0
> 6 11:-15:0
> 5 6:-10:0
> 4 4:-6:0
> 3 2:-4:0
> 2 0:-1:1
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 2nd from left: -5
> all other gamma values default
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> C: 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL (high speed causes too much pumping with dynamic picture mode, normal provides more stability and more accurate colours)


A joke. Dynamic again : ) : )


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## ScudDawg

Shinji Mikami said:


> A joke. Dynamic again : ) : )


DOH, lol


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## Pretorian

I just tried Projector Reviews calibrated setting for my 6050. I took the "Best" picture mode with High lamp power. 
So, the image gets really bright with HDR content (actually all content) but the sound from the projector gets quite loud.
Are you all using High lamp? I will probably stick to the "Medium" setting but I am curious.


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## Tsunamijhoe

Pretorian said:


> I just tried Projector Reviews calibrated setting for my 6050. I took the "Best" picture mode with High lamp power.
> So, the image gets really bright with HDR content (actually all content) but the sound from the projector gets quite loud.
> Are you all using High lamp? I will probably stick to the "Medium" setting but I am curious.


Strictly medium lamp, which on bright cinema mode can be blinding as it is.. Which is why we are looking for the bright cinema calibration in this thread someone said were really good.. Alas,we cant find it :-D


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## Shinji Mikami

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Strictly medium lamp, which on bright cinema mode can be blinding as it is.. Which is why we are looking for the bright cinema calibration in this thread someone said were really good.. Alas,we cant find it :-D


After 1,5 years enyoining mi TW9400 (6050UB) with "Digital Cinema" and "Natural" modes, last days I tried "Bright Cinema" and I found a lot of shadow detail than the other ones.

I konw that "Natural" mode respects SDR accuray colour and "Digital Cinema" do the same with HDR content, but both "eat" too much shadow detail. With "Bright Cinema" happens in reverse, it shows a lot of shadow detail keeping deep blacks but destrroy accuracy colours.

So I wonder if calibrating "Bright Cinema" we could reach accuracy colour like "Natural" and "Digital Cinema" showing much more shadow detail.


----------



## Luminated67

Shinji Mikami said:


> After 1,5 years enyoining mi TW9400 (6050UB) with "Digital Cinema" and "Natural" modes, last days I tried "Bright Cinema" and I found a lot of shadow detail than the other ones.
> 
> I konw that "Natural" mode respects SDR accuray colour and "Digital Cinema" do the same with HDR content, but both "eat" too much shadow detail. With "Bright Cinema" happens in reverse, it shows a lot of shadow detail keeping deep blacks but destrroy accuracy colours.
> 
> So I wonder if calibrating "Bright Cinema" we could reach accuracy colour like "Natural" and "Digital Cinema" showing much more shadow detail.


Until your machine is professional calibrated you won’t know just how much shadow detail you are meant to see and how much you aren’t.


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## DaGamePimp

I should be able to run through a basic Bright Cinema calibration over the long weekend and post the settings for those that are interested. I need an excuse to get back to calibrating the various modes, have not touched it in a while. Consider that I am at around 1100 hours on the lamp (will be ordering a new one soon) so my settings may not work well for units with much lower hours.

* just ordered a new lamp 

- Jason


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## mon2479

I was wondering on what connection method I should use to get a better PQ when I stream movies from my roku 4k player.
Currently I have the roku player going to my yamaha rxa 3050 and the receiver to the epson. I do have a OPPO 203 and was wondering if I should send the roku signal to the oppo with the video signal going to the epson and the audio signal going to the Yamaha. If that is a better route, what if any video changes need to be done in the OPPOs video settings? Thanks


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## asolor78

@DaGamePimp you the man, I always welcome new calibrations.. I think u posted some a while back, Ive used and rotated some but alway a great starting point for calibrations due to how everyone will not get same results.. also there was something u mentioned with your panny 4k player not updated to what u had calibrated.. wondering if there was anything that needed re tweaking from that stand point..


----------



## DaGamePimp

asolor78 said:


> @DaGamePimp you the man, I always welcome new calibrations.. I think u posted some a while back, Ive used and rotated some but alway a great starting point for calibrations due to how everyone will not get same results.. also there was something u mentioned with your panny 4k player not updated to what u had calibrated.. wondering if there was anything that needed re tweaking from that stand point..


I honestly have not messed with the Panasonic 820 much after updating it other than to confirm it was 'different' pre-post firmware, I have mostly been using madVR for UHD playback.

I use a TPG so I don't calibrate from the 820 but I will check it out after I do some more mode calibrations. I recall thinking that the 820 still did a better job of tone mapping versus the 5050.

- Jason


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## barge01

Hey so I’m incredibly new to all this calibration stuff but when I was perusing the forums before I purchased my projector I saved this for later use. Think this maybe what you guys are after?


----------



## Shinji Mikami

DaGamePimp said:


> I should be able to run through a basic Bright Cinema calibration over the long weekend and post the settings for those that are interested. I need an excuse to get back to calibrating the various modes, have not touched it in a while. Consider that I am at around 1100 hours on the lamp (will be ordering a new one soon) so my settings may not work well for units with much lower hours.
> 
> * just ordered a new lamp
> 
> - Jason


Wow, thank you so much !!! So you have an excuse right now : ) : ) Please, try a better setup under Bright Cinema mode. We will appreciate it


----------



## Pretorian

DaGamePimp said:


> I should be able to run through a basic Bright Cinema calibration over the long weekend and post the settings for those that are interested. I need an excuse to get back to calibrating the various modes, have not touched it in a while. Consider that I am at around 1100 hours on the lamp (will be ordering a new one soon) so my settings may not work well for units with much lower hours.
> 
> * just ordered a new lamp
> 
> - Jason


Well... I am just "sitting here" waiting to try out a new setting. I would really like to use that if you have the time.


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> Until your machine is professional calibrated you won’t know just how much shadow detail you are meant to see and how much you aren’t.


I am planning on getting a professional calibration but I am always uncertain just how "good" the calibrator are. It costs a lot of money.


----------



## Shinji Mikami

Pretorian said:


> I am planning on getting a professional calibration but I am always uncertain just how "good" the calibrator are. It costs a lot of money.


At least in my country a professional calibration is too much expensive besides that the work requires many hours.

And another important issue is that every certain hours of use of the lamp it is necessary to recalibrate again.


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> I am planning on getting a professional calibration but I am always uncertain just how "good" the calibrator are. It costs a lot of money.


I think you are best going on reputation and chances are there’s a few guys in your area that are already on here that might know of a few good calibrators. I not only went on reputation of the guy who did mine but also on him past background so I know the job I would get was top notch.

What a professional calibration does it set you projector up to capture colours and shadows exactly how the director intended you to see them, nothing more nothing less. 



Shinji Mikami said:


> At least in my country a professional calibration is too much expensive besides that the work requires many hours.
> 
> And another important issue is that every certain hours of use of the lamp it is necessary to recalibrate again.


The guy that did mine comes over and usually does a load of us over a few days so his rates aren’t too bad really plus when it’s only fine tuning like with an ageing bulb he’s only there a short time so price is significantly cheaper again.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

barge01 said:


> Hey so I’m incredibly new to all this calibration stuff but when I was perusing the forums before I purchased my projector I saved this for later use. Think this maybe what you guys are after?


Sorry,no.. Not it either.. Those calibrations are based on Digital and Natural modes


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## Daniel Marques

Hi! I need help getting 4k 60hz HDR to work woth my PS4 PRO. Ive tried all day. I got 4k 60hz HDR to work on my Apple TV4k by turning on the EDID setting, but my PS4 doesnt show screen when the EDID option is on expanded. Tried everything but only 2k HDR is working when i turn HDR on in a ps4 game.
I have the PS4 connected to a Denon X4500h and the Denon connected to the 5050ub projector in hdmi output1 and a 4ktv on hdmi output2.
When I switch to the 4ktv output, the 4k 60hz HDR becomes available on the ps4.
Help, please.


----------



## Danonano

Daniel Marques said:


> Hi! I need help getting 4k 60hz HDR to work woth my PS4 PRO. Ive tried all day. I got 4k 60hz HDR to work on my Apple TV4k by turning on the EDID setting, but my PS4 doesnt show screen when the EDID option is on expanded. Tried everything but only 2k HDR is working when i turn HDR on in a ps4 game.
> I have the PS4 connected to a Denon X4500h and the Denon connected to the 5050ub projector in hdmi output1 and a 4ktv on hdmi output2.
> When I switch to the 4ktv output, the 4k 60hz HDR becomes available on the ps4.
> Help, please.


Are you confident in the HDMI cable that goes to the projector? How long is it?


----------



## Daniel Marques

Danonano said:


> Are you confident in the HDMI cable that goes to the projector? How long is it?


Yes, cause its the same cable that works fine with my 4k 60hz hdr appletv, since its conected to the Denon . Its around 10meters long.
Should I try a bypass? Going for another cable direct to the projector? (Ps4 - projector) instead of Ps4 - receiver - projector.


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## Unkabin

Another 4K cable question here. My 5050 plays nice with my AppleTV for 4K HDR but when I try 4:4:4, screen goes black for a bit and then the AppleTV says that the projector is not capable of it. Could this be my cable? It’s an inexpensive but 18Gbps rated 25-foot cable.


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## ChrisRex

I am ready to pull my remaining hair out, and I'm hoping you guys can help!

I just received a 5050, which replaced a 5040. Everything around it remains the same. I have a Denon 4300 with a second monitor attached to hmdi output 2. This setup works either in conjunction with the projector (Simultaneous), , with the projector off but the reciver on, or as a passthrough monitor when the Denon and epson are off. It is set to 'auto (hdmi out 1 +2).

So heres the problem, now that I've changed from the 5040 to the 5050
:
If the Epson 5050 is OFF... the other monitor will not work. It keeps blinking like it's trying to sync, but will not remain steady. This same scenario worked perfectly well with the 5040. We thought it was a passthrough issue (which SHOULD pass through video to monitor two if the epson and denon are both off as it has always done), but then we noticed if the epson is off at all, monitor 2 simply blinks, even if the denon is on (negating a pass through problem).

If I remove the power cable from the epson, it works fine. So it is simply the act of being 'there' and off which breaks eveyrthing. Again, no issue on the 5040, as I am A/Bing it.

Things I've tried:
Matched the 5040 settings
changed all cables and also swapped them around (Swapped to and from fiber optic, regular 2.0, etc)
swapped 'monitor 2' with different tvs.
Changed what was plugged into each hdmi output ( projector from 1 to 2 and vice versa).
Changed the output to JUST HDMI 2 instead of both/auto or HDMI 1. This WORKS, but is not practical and shouldnt need to be done, and this obviously kills the epson (hdmi 1) when it's back on.
Turned off all the relevant settings as far as HDMI link, standby off, etc etc. Tried every combination imaginable, all pointing towards 'off/ no power/ no arc/ no standby talking'

This is driving me nuts. Is there a hidden menu Im not seeing? Is this just a new 'feature'? Did I get a lemon? Everything else SEEMS to function as expected.

I really hope it's something silly...


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## ChrisRex

Unkabin said:


> Another 4K cable question here. My 5050 plays nice with my AppleTV for 4K HDR but when I try 4:4:4, screen goes black for a bit and then the AppleTV says that the projector is not capable of it. Could this be my cable? It’s an inexpensive but 18Gbps rated 25-foot cable.


I was in a similar boat (30 ft) and got a fiber optic cable on amazon. Works fine now. (Other issues, as I wrote in a post a few minutes ago), but the cable resolved my similar issue.


----------



## rekbones

ChrisRex said:


> I am ready to pull my remaining hair out, and I'm hoping you guys can help!
> 
> I just received a 5050, which replaced a 5040. Everything around it remains the same. I have a Denon 4300 with a second monitor attached to hmdi output 2. This setup works either in conjunction with the projector (Simultaneous), , with the projector off but the reciver on, or as a passthrough monitor when the Denon and epson are off. It is set to 'auto (hdmi out 1 +2).
> 
> So heres the problem, now that I've changed from the 5040 to the 5050
> :
> If the Epson 5050 is OFF... the other monitor will not work. It keeps blinking like it's trying to sync, but will not remain steady. This same scenario worked perfectly well with the 5040. We thought it was a passthrough issue (which SHOULD pass through video to monitor two if the epson and denon are both off as it has always done), but then we noticed if the epson is off at all, monitor 2 simply blinks, even if the denon is on (negating a pass through problem).
> 
> If I remove the power cable from the epson, it works fine. So it is simply the act of being 'there' and off which breaks eveyrthing. Again, no issue on the 5040, as I am A/Bing it.
> 
> Things I've tried:
> Matched the 5040 settings
> changed all cables and also swapped them around (Swapped to and from fiber optic, regular 2.0, etc)
> swapped 'monitor 2' with different tvs.
> Changed what was plugged into each hdmi output ( projector from 1 to 2 and vice versa).
> Changed the output to JUST HDMI 2 instead of both/auto or HDMI 1. This WORKS, but is not practical and shouldnt need to be done, and this obviously kills the epson (hdmi 1) when it's back on.
> Turned off all the relevant settings as far as HDMI link, standby off, etc etc. Tried every combination imaginable, all pointing towards 'off/ no power/ no arc/ no standby talking'
> 
> This is driving me nuts. Is there a hidden menu Im not seeing? Is this just a new 'feature'? Did I get a lemon? Everything else SEEMS to function as expected.
> 
> I really hope it's something silly...


I suspect it has to due with he 5040 is HDMI 1.4 and the 5050 is HDMI 2.0. I really don't understand why when you shut a device down and it goes into standby it still issues an EDID on the HDMI hand shake. I have a similar issue with my 1.4 JVC and my 2.0 BenQ even though I have an HDFury intragrel on the JVC fooling it to HDMI 2.0. Right now I just unplug the HDFury when watching the BenQ but have no clue how to get them to play nice together.


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## Danonano

Danonano said:


> Are you confident in the HDMI cable that goes to the projector? How long is it?


Well the next troubleshooting step I would take would be to unplug the TV from the receiver and see if the PS4 will then do 4k with the projector.

These HDMI synch issues can be troublesome. I've been through my fair share.


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## psraj

Does Epson support HDR10+ ?


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## Sorny

psraj said:


> Does Epson support HDR10+ ?


No. HDR10 & HLG are supported.


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## DaGamePimp

Hey all, sorry I didn't get to the basic Bright Cinema calibration. I got sidetracked because of an AVR failure (Denon x3300) in my media room and spent a couple days tracking down a replacement locally (Denon s960h), there appears to be a sub $1K AVR shortage at the moment. I am probably going to wait for the new lamp to show up and then I'll get back to it. 

- Jason


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## Tsunamijhoe

DaGamePimp said:


> Hey all, sorry I didn't get to the basic Bright Cinema calibration. I got sidetracked because of an AVR failure (Denon x3300) in my media room and spent a couple days tracking down a replacement locally (Denon s960h), there appears to be a sub $1K AVR shortage at the moment. I am probably going to wait for the new lamp to show up and then I'll get back to it.
> 
> - Jason


No worries mate. We are waiting with anticipation


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## JonfromCB

Thoughts and suggestions please. 5050ub. I was watching Discovery channel last night and left the room for about 10 minutes. When I returned I had sound but no picture. Power light was off. Status light was flashing blue. Lamp light flashing orange. Temperature light off. Manual says turn off and contact Epson and I will do this as soon as they open. Filter is clean. Bulb has about 260 hours on it. Has anyone else had this experience? Outcome? Thanks


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## Terence

JonfromCB said:


> Thoughts and suggestions please. 5050ub. I was watching Discovery channel last night and left the room for about 10 minutes. When I returned I had sound but no picture. Power light was off. Status light was flashing blue. Lamp light flashing orange. Temperature light off. Manual says turn off and contact Epson and I will do this as soon as they open. Filter is clean. Bulb has about 260 hours on it. Has anyone else had this experience? Outcome? Thanks


I had the same issue with my previous HC 4000. You need a new bulb because it failed before it’s time. Contact Epson customer service (562-276-4394) about what happened and they will send you a new one. Make sure you have your S/N when you call, it’s a small sticker located on the side of the Pj.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## JonfromCB

Thanks Terence, I called Epson right after making the above post. We went through some trouble shooting and they said it's "hardware failure" and not the bulb. They gave me the credit card deposit/express replacement option or the replace when received option. Good service, I didn't have to wait on hold and the Rep' was articulate and understandable. From a customer service perspective, response and options are probably as good as it gets. From a product perspective It's disappointing. I've had three Panny's, all with thousands of hours and my first Epson takes a dump with only 300 hours.


----------



## Terence

JonfromCB said:


> Thanks Terence, I called Epson right after making the above post. We went through some trouble shooting and they said it's "hardware failure" and not the bulb. They gave me the credit card deposit/express replacement option or the replace when received option. Good service, I didn't have to wait on hold and the Rep' was articulate and understandable. From a customer service perspective, response and options are probably as good as it gets. From a product perspective It's disappointing. I've had three Panny's, all with thousands of hours and my first Epson takes a dump with only 300 hours.


Epson’s customer service is top notch and glad they are taking care of you! Every manufacturer has some duds, especially a mass produced product. I know it sucks but you will be back up and running soon. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Shinji Mikami

DaGamePimp said:


> Hey all, sorry I didn't get to the basic Bright Cinema calibration. I got sidetracked because of an AVR failure (Denon x3300) in my media room and spent a couple days tracking down a replacement locally (Denon s960h), there appears to be a sub $1K AVR shortage at the moment. I am probably going to wait for the new lamp to show up and then I'll get back to it.
> 
> - Jason


We apreciate your effort. Thank you !!!!!


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## Zedekias

I just purchased a 5050 after lurking this thread for a while. Excited!

Does anyone have any recommendations on mounts that has a lot of height adjustment? I can only find mounts that have 3 height adjustments. And I need my projector to be low enough to project under a drop ceiling. But not low enough to wack my head on it. I'm hoping there is something that has numerous height increments. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

I really like my *Sanus VP1*mount. You should be able to get your 5050 as close to or as far from your ceiling you like and then use the projector's lens shift for screen alignment. If the lengths of the provided threaded pipes aren't sufficient then almost any threaded pipe length can be had at the usual home improvement stores.


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## Zedekias

fredworld said:


> I really like my *Sanus VP1*mount. You should be able to get your 5050 as close to or as far from your ceiling you like and then use the projector's lens shift for screen alignment. If the lengths of the provided threaded pipes aren't sufficient then almost any threaded pipe length can be had at the usual home improvement stores.


I've had a hard time wrapping my head around this. Will the lens shift have capability to go under that gray drop ceiling?









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Hawkmarket

Zedekias said:


> I've had a hard time wrapping my head around this. Will the lens shift have capability to go under that gray drop ceiling?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Probably....but you're really going to have trouble getting your picture to fit inside that frame perfectly. I don't think a lens shift exists to fit inside those curvy lines.


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## Zedekias

Hawkmarket said:


> Probably....but you're really going to have trouble getting your picture to fit inside that frame perfectly. I don't think a lens shift exists to fit inside those curvy lines.


Keystone correction if I recall correctly 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Hawkmarket

Zedekias said:


> Keystone correction if I recall correctly
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


As in drinking a lot of keystone to make it look right. Obviously if you wanted a smartass response I was here to help but you'll need an expert around here to answer your original question accurately. Just count me in as a very happy 5050 owner validating the purchase and hopefully the lens shift will work in your spot.


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## Zedekias

Hawkmarket said:


> As in drinking a lot of keystone to make it look right. Obviously if you wanted a smartass response I was here to help but you'll need an expert around here to answer your original question accurately. Just count me in as a very happy 5050 owner validating the purchase and hopefully the lens shift will work in your spot.


Appreciate it. I'll mount it as close to the ceiling as possible and move it down as needed. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

Zedekias, have you played around with this calculator: Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projection Calculator - Throw Distance and Screen Size


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## Zedekias

fredworld said:


> Zedekias, have you played around with this calculator: Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projection Calculator - Throw Distance and Screen Size


Yes many times. It has helped me a lot with screen size and distance. But it confuses me more than anything when it says the projector needs to be focused at the center of the screen. Yet it has a massive amount of lens shift.

I'm trying to picture my projector being flush (ish) with the ceiling. And the beam of light hitting the grey drop down wall ahead. And trying to imagine the lens shifting so far down it goes around that corner. Hah maybe it's possible?! 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## rekbones

Zedekias said:


> Appreciate it. I'll mount it as close to the ceiling as possible and move it down as needed.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


All you need to do is hold a flash light at the same spot where the lens will be and if it casts a shadow on your proposed screen area then you will need to lower it.


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## HTX^2steve

JonfromCB said:


> Thoughts and suggestions please. 5050ub. I was watching Discovery channel last night and left the room for about 10 minutes. When I returned I had sound but no picture. Power light was off. Status light was flashing blue. Lamp light flashing orange. Temperature light off. Manual says turn off and contact Epson and I will do this as soon as they open. Filter is clean. Bulb has about 260 hours on it. Has anyone else had this experience? Outcome? Thanks


That is why you should never leave a room for a sec when watching a movie...I hear about that all the time...I think it has to do with some sort of projector separation anxiety disorder (PSAD)


----------



## fredworld

Zedekias,
What's your throw distance from lens to screen?
What's the "drop" in inches of the drop ceiling?
What's the distance from the lens to the "drop ceiling?"
What's the distance from the screen wall ceiling to top of screen?
What's the distance from floor to bottom of screen?
What's the size of the screen?


----------



## BIC2

Zedekias said:


> I just purchased a 5050 after lurking this thread for a while. Excited!
> 
> Does anyone have any recommendations on mounts that has a lot of height adjustment? I can only find mounts that have 3 height adjustments. And I need my projector to be low enough to project under a drop ceiling. But not low enough to wack my head on it. I'm hoping there is something that has numerous height increments.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I have the black Chief CHF4500 that comes with the Epson 6050. I think the white version is 3500. I bought the 2-3 ft adjustable extension. They have other sizes. This is a perfect mount for this projector, I can't imagine one working better. A little pricey, but you get what you pay for. You don't want to screw around with a cheap mount.


----------



## Zedekias

fredworld said:


> Zedekias,
> What's your throw distance from lens to screen?
> What's the "drop" in inches of the drop ceiling?
> What's the distance from the lens to the "drop ceiling?"
> What's the distance from the screen wall ceiling to top of screen?
> What's the distance from floor to bottom of screen?
> What's the size of the screen?


Throw distance will be right around 15'. I'm hoping for maximum brightness for a 135-150" screen.

The drop in the ceiling is 12".

The distance from lens to drop ceiling is 3'10".

If I'm doing a 150" screen the height of screen is 73". My screen wall is only 80.5" from floor to ceiling. I realize this is cutting it extremely close so I'm willing to experiment before I commit to a screen size. If I do a 135", that height will be 66". Maybe that's more realistic. 

I do plan on having my center channel behind my screen since there won't be room for it above or below. 



Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Now had this beast a week,and holy moly it is awesome..Image quality is a lot better than my previous Sony VPL-HW65ES,and it is so bright.. So happy i went with this one instead of the Optoma laser i was looking at..
Got a date with a pro calibrator later this month,so hopefully it will be dialed in to my room...

Only gripe is the stupid loud fan in high mode.. Good thing it is bright enough on medium,but i would still have liked a low noise fan instead so i could yank every little juice out of the lamp withoout having to crank system to referrence..


----------



## Zedekias

BIC2 said:


> I have the black Chief CHF4500 that comes with the Epson 6050. I think the white version is 3500. I bought the 2-3 ft adjustable extension. They have other sizes. This is a perfect mount for this projector, I can't imagine one working better. A little pricey, but you get what you pay for. You don't want to screw around with a cheap mount.


I'm having a hard time finding these models. But it seems like chief is a go to brand. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## BIC2

Zedekias said:


> I'm having a hard time finding these models. But it seems like chief is a go to brand.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Sorry, think the white version is 4000, not 3500. Try AVS Science, that's where I got my extension, the mount came with the 6050.


----------



## BIC2

Zedekias said:


> Throw distance will be right around 15'. I'm hoping for maximum brightness for a 135-150" screen.
> 
> The drop in the ceiling is 12".
> 
> The distance from lense to drop ceiling is 3'10".
> 
> If I'm doing a 150" screen the height of screen is 73". My screen wall is only 80.5" from floor to ceiling. I realize this is cutting it extremely close so I'm willing to experiment before I commit to a screen size. If I do a 135", that height will be 66". Maybe that's more realistic.
> 
> I do plan on having my center channel behind my screen since there won't be room for it above or below.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I have a 6050 beaming onto a Seymour AV AT 16:9 screen same size as you're looking at. Mine is 150 d and 73 h. But, my wall is 108 high. I don't think your 80.5 height is realistic. My throw is 16' 6". First row is 11 ft; second row is 17 ft on 8 in riser. Second row gets cut off slightly at bottom of 16:9 with front row up. Front row reclined works OK for back row. Front row feet up is no problem, but doubt the same for your height. Going off my setup, I don't think yours would work. I wouldn't want to go higher or lower that the 26 inches to bottom of screen.

But, do what I did---beam movies on the wall, try out the different options, then buy your screen. I spent months doing this, it's more complicated than you would think. To err on the safe side, your throw should be a little longer than you might think. Turns out I could have done a 15 ft throw, but didn't want to have to be caught too close. I'm just slightly off optimum now.


----------



## Zedekias

BIC2 said:


> I have a 6050 beaming onto a Seymour AV AT 16:9 screen same size as you're looking at. Mine is 150 d and 73 h. But, my wall is 108 high. I don't think your 80.5 height is realistic. My throw is 16' 6". First row is 11 ft; second row is 17 ft on 8 in riser. Second row gets cut off slightly at bottom of 16:9 with front row up. Front row reclined works OK for back row. Front row feet up is no problem, but doubt the same for your height. Going off my setup, I don't think yours would work. I wouldn't want to go higher or lower that the 26 inches to bottom of screen.
> 
> But, do what I did---beam movies on the wall, try out the different options, then buy your screen. I spent months doing this, it's more complicated than you would think. To err on the safe side, your throw should be a little longer than you might think. Turns out I could have done a 15 ft throw, but didn't want to have to be caught too close. I'm just slightly off optimum now.


Longer throw? Wouldn't a longer throw be more likely to have the screen blocked by people getting up off the couch? I figured a shorter throw would help brightness. And the 15' throw would have the projector almost directly over the seating. I'm also not doing any risers or rows. Just a sectional couch. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Zedekias

BIC2 said:


> Sorry, think the white version is 4000, not 3500. Try AVS Science, that's where I got my extension, the mount came with the 6050.


Thank you. Will check it out. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## BIC2

Zedekias said:


> Longer throw? Wouldn't a longer throw be more likely to have the screen blocked by people getting up off the couch? I figured a shorter throw would help brightness. And the 15' throw would have the projector almost directly over the seating. I'm also not doing any risers or rows. Just a sectional couch.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


You are correct, I was just talking from a screen size perspective.


----------



## Zedekias

BIC2 said:


> You are correct, I was just talking from a screen size perspective.


Gotcha. Apologize. I'm about as a noob as it gets. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## BIC2

Since I had to mount the projector before finalizing screen size, it wound up a foot or so further back than I would have put it had I known my screen size.


----------



## JonfromCB

HTX^2steve said:


> That is why you should never leave a room for a sec when watching a movie...I hear about that all the time...I think it has to do with some sort of projector separation anxiety disorder (PSAD)


lol, well the jokes on me and so is the PSAD. Epson service was fast, articulate, and professional....but after making a $1900. credit card deposit for a two day replacement I got nothing from Epson they told me I would receive in 24 hours or less...No email, no return shipping label, and no tracking information on the replacement that was supposed to be shipped yesterday. When I called them to find out why, I got disconnected during the inquiry...urrgh. On the next call they told me replacements were not in stock until hopefully 15 Sep. Unfortunately I don't believe they would have told me chit if I had not called them back and that really rubs me wrong. 

I asked for cancellation of the $1900 deposit since they cannot provide a rapid replacement it's required for, and that they send me the usual return shipping label for the failed unit and then express ship a replacement PJ when they are back in stock. Honestly, I should not have to ask for deposit cancellation and for them to send me a shipping label as that is their "standard" return procedure. I fully understand these things happen but there's no excuse for not informing me that the PJ was on back order, not replying to the "rapid replacement" transaction, and then being "confused" about what happened and how to fix it. In stead they emailed me a new case reference number with no other details or explanation. I fully believe they will make things right, but at this point I'm sure not getting the incredible customer service others are no doubt raving about.


----------



## fredworld

I think a 3'10" distance to the dropped ceiling is too close for a close mounting to the main ceiling without at least some cropping of the top of the image. But, I agree that you should mount the projector before installing the screen to see where the image falls and then adjust the projector/mount, if necessary.


----------



## Zedekias

fredworld said:


> I think a 3'10" distance to the dropped ceiling is too close for a close mounting to the main ceiling without at least some cropping of the top of the image. But, I agree that you should mount the projector before installing the screen to see where the image falls and then adjust the projector/mount, if necessary.


Yeah. I will be doing that. And also stacking the projector on storage bins and books to figure out how much I need to lower it from the ceiling. I'm thinking a 6" or 8" extender should work. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## arnemetis

Zedekias said:


> Yeah. I will be doing that. And also stacking the projector on storage bins and books to figure out how much I need to lower it from the ceiling. I'm thinking a 6" or 8" extender should work.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Have you considered just using a laser pointer to test out different positions to see where the lens height needs to be? Would be a lot easier with someone helping you at the screen location to use like a piece of painter's tape for each test so you can note the different lens heights and where the highest point for a screen could be. Just use a yardstick against the ceiling and test within the ranges you want.


----------



## Zedekias

arnemetis said:


> Have you considered just using a laser pointer to test out different positions to see where the lens height needs to be? Would be a lot easier with someone helping you at the screen location to use like a piece of painter's tape for each test so you can note the different lens heights and where the highest point for a screen could be. Just use a yardstick against the ceiling and test within the ranges you want.


Good idea! 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## amairphoto

Has anyone ran their PC for gaming to the projector? Just recently built a nice pc and want to run 4k at 60fps but the PC doesnt recognize its capable of 4k. 
Just wondering if anyone had any success?


----------



## hungarianhc

amairphoto said:


> Has anyone ran their PC for gaming to the projector? Just recently built a nice pc and want to run 4k at 60fps but the PC doesnt recognize its capable of 4k.
> Just wondering if anyone had any success?


Hey there - are you plugging it directly into the projector? Or into an AVR? If AVR, there may be some setting off there. I have the 5050UB, and it definitely is detected as a 4K60 device.


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## HTX^2steve

JonfromCB said:


> lol, well the jokes on me and so is the PSAD. Epson service was fast, articulate, and professional....but after making a $1900. credit card deposit for a two day replacement I got nothing from Epson they told me I would receive in 24 hours or less...No email, no return shipping label, and no tracking information on the replacement that was supposed to be shipped yesterday. When I called them to find out why, I got disconnected during the inquiry...urrgh. On the next call they told me replacements were not in stock until hopefully 15 Sep. Unfortunately I don't believe they would have told me chit if I had not called them back and that really rubs me wrong.
> 
> I asked for cancellation of the $1900 deposit since they cannot provide a rapid replacement it's required for, and that they send me the usual return shipping label for the failed unit and then express ship a replacement PJ when they are back in stock. Honestly, I should not have to ask for deposit cancellation and for them to send me a shipping label as that is their "standard" return procedure. I fully understand these things happen but there's no excuse for not informing me that the PJ was on back order, not replying to the "rapid replacement" transaction, and then being "confused" about what happened and how to fix it. In stead they emailed me a new case reference number with no other details or explanation. I fully believe they will make things right, but at this point I'm sure not getting the incredible customer service others are no doubt raving about.


I myself had PSAD when I first got my new 5050 projector with a scratch on the lens when it popped off during shipment. Sure I also had communications issues with Epson but then times were certainly different just from last year and I agree with you that Epson will make good on it but just a bit of patience will save you from going crazy and hopefully not to add to with everything else going crazy in the world. 😎


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## gibsonm21

How's it going? New 5050 owner here after I cashed in my BB PP on my 5040. Has anybody had issues w/ the "No Signal" message when pushing 4K? Both my XBONE X & PS4 pro aren't recognized when sending 4K. When I set res to 1080 or lower on the XBOX, then I get a picture. The odd thing is, under 4K tv details, everything is green checks.

Currently using a 25' monoprice high speed cables for XBOX/PS4 > Denon 6200 > Epson.

I'm waiting on a new HDMI cable to do some troubleshooting, but I'm hoping this is a simple / common solution.


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## zendalex

100% cable. To troubleshoot just connect ps4 via its supplied cable directly to the proj. You should see a pic. It is a very common hdcp problem.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## JonfromCB

HTX^2steve said:


> I myself had PSAD when I first got my new 5050 projector with a scratch on the lens when it popped off during shipment. Sure I also had communications issues with Epson but then times were certainly different just from last year and I agree with you that Epson will make good on it but just a bit of patience will save you from going crazy and hopefully not to add to with everything else going crazy in the world. 😎


I'm a patient and understanding guy too and I appreciate your encouragement. I believe they will come through, and also believe 5050 community deserves to know that a 5050 with 265 hours took a dump and their customer service gave me incorrect information and then appears to have no mechanism to catch their mistake, and communicate with me about it. 

It is what it is and I'll follow up with this community. Most probably don't care, but it might be useful to someone.


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## CZ Eddie

I read that JVC's 4K projectors just got their second massive HDR firmware upgrade this week.
Anyone heard any rumors on if Epson will ever release a firmware update to improve on HDR performance like JVC keeps doing?


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## CZ Eddie

Btw, the 5050UB is $400 off at dell.com right now.


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## zendalex

CZ Eddie said:


> Btw, the 5050UB is $400 off at dell.com right now.


As everywhere else

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## JonesyG

Does anyone here have experience putting the 5050 right up against a back wall? There aren't vents in the back, so I'm hoping that's okay.
Can anyone share their experience comparing the wireless HDMI of the 5050UBE vs a HDMI 2.0 cable?
I'm looking to replace a Panasonic AE3000 that's showing its age (along with some dust I can't seem to clear out).
My requirements are limiting my options:

Screen is 14' 4" from back wall (172 inches)
2.39:1 screen is 115" x 48" (125" diagonal)
PJ sits atop an open shelf on the back wall a little higher than the screen center
Lens Memory is needed to switch between 16:9 and 2.39 viewing
No DLP rainbows
Price below five figures
The 5050 will _almost _work. If I subtract 18 inches (the length of the 5050 itself) from the room length, that leaves me with 154 inches from the lens to the screen.
According to the projector calculators, that's a couple of inches closer than it should be, meaning it won't quite fill my screen for scope films. 

For now, I'm projecting from a Blu-Ray player, DirecTV, and Netflix via Chromecast. I've been _reasonably _happy with my 1080p AE3000, so any upgrade from that will be great.

If I can use wireless HDMI and put a 5050UBE flush against the back wall, that will get me closest to filling my screen.
If I really ought to use an HDMI 2.0 cable, but it's still okay to keep the projector close to the wall, I'll get a right-angle HDMI cable connector to keep it close.
If I need to be a few inches out from the wall, I'll probably just live with the AE3000 until someone releases a new PJ with a short enough throw and/or short chassis.

Thanks in advance for any input on these questions or any other suggestions for me.

PS: The AE3000 works in my set-up because it's only 12 inches long. If I had known they wouldn't keep making projectors that short, I would have gotten a slightly smaller screen. Lesson learned.


EDIT / UPDATE (9/16/20)

I discovered that the Epson 6050 is sold with a solid plastic cover that covers the back of the projector, so I'm feeling confident that it's safe to put the projector against a back wall.
After reading about issues with the wireless HDMI, I feel like a cable is a much better option.
Just FYI in case anyone else has similar questions.


----------



## rjguk

JonesyG said:


> Does anyone here have experience putting the 5050 right up against a back wall? There aren't vents in the back, so I'm hoping that's okay.
> Can anyone share their experience comparing the wireless HDMI of the 5050UBE vs a HDMI 2.0 cable?
> I'm looking to replace a Panasonic AE3000 that's showing its age (along with some dust I can't seem to clear out).
> My requirements are limiting my options:
> 
> Screen is 14' 4" from back wall (172 inches)
> 2.39:1 screen is 115" x 48" (125" diagonal)
> PJ sits atop an open shelf on the back wall a little higher than the screen center
> Lens Memory is needed to switch between 16:9 and 2.39 viewing
> No DLP rainbows
> Price below five figures
> The 5050 will _almost _work. If I subtract 18 inches (the length of the 5050 itself) from the room length, that leaves me with 154 inches from the lens to the screen.
> According to the projector calculators, that's a couple of inches closer than it should be, meaning it won't quite fill my screen for scope films.
> 
> For now, I'm projecting from a Blu-Ray player, DirecTV, and Netflix via Chromecast. I've been _reasonably _happy with my 1080p AE3000, so any upgrade from that will be great.
> 
> If I can use wireless HDMI and put a 5050UBE flush against the back wall, that will get me closest to filling my screen.
> If I really ought to use an HDMI 2.0 cable, but it's still okay to keep the projector close to the wall, I'll get a right-angle HDMI cable connector to keep it close.
> If I need to be a few inches out from the wall, I'll probably just live with the AE3000 until someone releases a new PJ with a short enough throw and/or short chassis.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any input on these questions or any other suggestions for me.
> 
> PS: The AE3000 works in my set-up because it's only 12 inches long. If I had known they wouldn't keep making projectors that short, I would have gotten a slightly smaller screen. Lesson learned.


If you are very close to the wall be aware that just occasionally you might want to use the USB port for firmware updates. You could use a short USB extender lead so it dangles out the back, otherwise it can involve bad language...


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## usace

My Epson 5020 is finally giving out after 7+ yrs. Started showing vertical red lines on the left half of the screen...the local Epson service center said it needed a new optical engine for $1500. So, time for an upgrade. So, I have a few questions about this projector before making a decision...

1. Coming from a 5020, I realize the 5050 isn't full UHD, but I assume I should still expect a noticeable (to the naked eye) increase in sharpness/resolution, correct?
2. The 5020 had manual lens shift, which seemed to wander occasionally...I'd have to play with the manual dial maybe every couple months to tweak it. I believe this was changed to digital adjustment with maybe the 5030, so I assume the 5050 is also digital. Anyone experience issues with the lens position moving after setting it?
3. Related to 2 above - the lens memory feature...how accurate is it changing from one aspect ratio and lens position to the next, going back and forth? Does it achieve the same position each time, or is there a slight drift that you have to adjust for over time?
4. I haven't seen much mention of the 5050's convergence (panel alignment)...how is the convergence and the ability to align the panels? With the 5020 there was a loss in sharpness when adjusting the convergence, unless one adjusted the entire panel uniformly in increments of 4. Sounds strange, but a few folks posted about this with screen shots in the 5020 thread. I assume the alignment method is similar on the 5050, and would love to be able to dial it in accurately w/out losing sharpness.
5. Seems as though the 5050 has been out for about 1.5 yrs now - how often does Epson release new models, and is there an expectation for the successor to be released anytime soon? I don't want to buy their latest and greatest only to find out a new model is available shortly thereafter.
6. Probably better asked in the receiver area, but my receiver is even older than my 5020, and I assume in order to take advantage of handling 4K material that I'll need a newer receiver to even pass a 4K signal, not to mention the newer sound formats, i.e. atmos, etc

Appreciate the help!


----------



## Northern_Lights

usace said:


> My Epson 5020 is finally giving out after 7+ yrs. Started showing vertical red lines on the left half of the screen...the local Epson service center said it needed a new optical engine for $1500. So, time for an upgrade. So, I have a few questions about this projector before making a decision...
> 
> 1. Coming from a 5020, I realize the 5050 isn't full UHD, but I assume I should still expect a noticeable (to the naked eye) increase in sharpness/resolution, correct?
> 2. The 5020 had manual lens shift, which seemed to wander occasionally...I'd have to play with the manual dial maybe every couple months to tweak it. I believe this was changed to digital adjustment with maybe the 5030, so I assume the 5050 is also digital. Anyone experience issues with the lens position moving after setting it?
> 3. Related to 2 above - the lens memory feature...how accurate is it changing from one aspect ratio and lens position to the next, going back and forth? Does it achieve the same position each time, or is there a slight drift that you have to adjust for over time?
> 4. I haven't seen much mention of the 5050's convergence (panel alignment)...how is the convergence and the ability to align the panels? With the 5020 there was a loss in sharpness when adjusting the convergence, unless one adjusted the entire panel uniformly in increments of 4. Sounds strange, but a few folks posted about this with screen shots in the 5020 thread. I assume the alignment method is similar on the 5050, and would love to be able to dial it in accurately w/out losing sharpness.
> 5. Seems as though the 5050 has been out for about 1.5 yrs now - how often does Epson release new models, and is there an expectation for the successor to be released anytime soon? I don't want to buy their latest and greatest only to find out a new model is available shortly thereafter.
> 6. Probably better asked in the receiver area, but my receiver is even older than my 5020, and I assume in order to take advantage of handling 4K material that I'll need a newer receiver to even pass a 4K signal, not to mention the newer sound formats, i.e. atmos, etc
> 
> Appreciate the help!


Someone else might have more thorough answers, but I'll try to help:
1. Yes, with the usual caveats about screen size/seating distance. 
2. Yes, lens position is digital/motorized. I haven't noticed mine shifting.
3. Not accurate at all! You can set multiple lens memory positions and there are two dedicated buttons on the remote, Lens 1 and Lens 2, to switch between the two you use most. But they don't work very well; you'll probably want to do some manual tweaking (which is quite simple) after you press Lens 1 or Lens 2.
4. Someone else would be better at speaking to this.
5. I doubt there's anything on the immediate horizon, and anything that was has almost certainly been delayed at least somewhat by covid.
6. Not sure of exact age of the 5020, but it's a safe bet that you'll need a new receiver and a fiber optic HDMI cable, so factor those into your budget.


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## platinum00

zendalex said:


> As everywhere else
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Do these typically go down more closer to holiday or is this as good as it's going to get. Can hold out a bit longer if needed

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## zendalex

platinum00 said:


> Do these typically go down more closer to holiday or is this as good as it's going to get. Can hold out a bit longer if needed
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


From what I heard also here on the forum, projector sale times do not exactly correlate to holidays. The advice was, if you see good price, just go for it. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## barge01

Hey guys so after finally getting this projector set up and using it I’ve noticed it losses picture signal quite often. About 5 times during a movie. Sound continues to play but the projector just shows a black screen. I’m running it through a HDMI matrix which may be the problem. I can try to isolate it and just directly connect the Apple Tv straight to the projecture and play a movie. I have run the HDMI check on the Apple TV and everything runs fine. both HDMI cables are definitely 2.0 compatable. Just wondering if this is a semi common problem with the projector or most likely the HDMI matrix I’m running?
cheers


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## HTX^2steve

Just recently figuring out some more info why I have a brief disconnect with my HDMI to PJ. What the culprit turned out to be was one of those Honeywell black fans no matter where I place it within the home if it was to be turned on or switching different fan levels it would cut the link with regards to the HDMI to the projector. Sooooooo I am still trying to figure this one out but what I might think it is would be some type of electrical interference spike or power drop effecting my Fiber Optic HDMI cable. Come to think of it also when I turn on my sub amp it does the same thing. It is not permanent but just annoying but if anyone has experienced this phenomenon, inquiring minds would like to know.


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## Tsunamijhoe

barge01 said:


> Hey guys so after finally getting this projector set up and using it I’ve noticed it losses picture signal quite often. About 5 times during a movie. Sound continues to play but the projector just shows a black screen. I’m running it through a HDMI matrix which may be the problem. I can try to isolate it and just directly connect the Apple Tv straight to the projecture and play a movie. I have run the HDMI check on the Apple TV and everything runs fine. both HDMI cables are definitely 2.0 compatable. Just wondering if this is a semi common problem with the projector or most likely the HDMI matrix I’m running?
> cheers


Definitely the hdmi.. After i bought new cable, no black screens.. Over 5m you need a good cable certified premium hdmi


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## RRF

Viewed the 5050ub today in a viewing room. 
Although it was placed in the primary location, I was very underwhelmed.
Viewing mode was "Cinema" and the lamp had just 220 hours. I was expecting a much brighter image. There was a lot of red push and when I finally managed to get a 100 IRE displayed, it was distinctly pink, with a perceptible white band running diagonally across the screen. A calibration disk was not available...my fault for not bringing any...and focus could have been improved. 
Salesman was more interested in trying to impress me with his demo movie than adjusting for accuracy.
Next up was the JVC NX5. Damn that's a big unit. But again, focus and convergence issues.
The whole experience made me really appreciate my 13 year old PT-AE2000U, with it's waveform calibration and CMS built in tools. I just hope I can get it working again by dismantling and cleaning out all the ventilation fans, temp sensors, and passages.


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## WynsWrld98

RRF said:


> AE2000U


You need to find somewhere else to demo projectors if those projectors 13 years newer than yours didn't impress you.


----------



## gibsonm21

gibsonm21 said:


> How's it going? New 5050 owner here after I cashed in my BB PP on my 5040. Has anybody had issues w/ the "No Signal" message when pushing 4K? Both my XBONE X & PS4 pro aren't recognized when sending 4K. When I set res to 1080 or lower on the XBOX, then I get a picture. The odd thing is, under 4K tv details, everything is green checks.
> 
> Currently using a 25' monoprice high speed cables for XBOX/PS4 > Denon 6200 > Epson.
> 
> I'm waiting on a new HDMI cable to do some troubleshooting, but I'm hoping this is a simple / common solution.


Well it was the HDMI cable. Hopefuly the cable pulls easily through the conduit.


----------



## RRF

WynsWrld98 said:


> You need to find somewhere else to demo projectors if those projectors 13 years newer than yours didn't impress you.


My thoughts exactly... although I have worked on several other later PT-AExxxx models that did not have the lens quality of my unit. Maybe my expectations were just too high.


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## forzabucks

Going with the 5050 in a room that is a mix of my theater/home office. I have pretty good control over light - black out shades and will be used mainly for night viewing anyway. 

Quick question for the board:

As of now, the ceiling of the room is painted white and the wallpaper that will be behind the retractable screen is more of a silver. If properly calibrated and fit to the screen, do you think the wallpaper/ceiling color will be an issue during night viewing, versus going with a much darker look around the room?

Thanks in advance...


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

I do believe the 5050ub has a stunning picture paired with my elite screens cinegray and panasonic ub420. I never even messed with any setting just cinema bright and i have the hdr slider set on 5. Then again it is my first projector in my first dedicated theater room but I can't help the feeling of immersion i get. And to think I wanted to get a 85 in samsung 900ts for my living room and my wife said no. Thats what led me to build a theater room.
















Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


----------



## RRF

forzabucks said:


> Quick question for the board:
> 
> As of now, the ceiling of the room is painted white and the wallpaper that will be behind the retractable screen is more of a silver. If properly calibrated and fit to the screen, do you think the wallpaper/ceiling color will be an issue during night viewing, versus going with a much darker look around the room?
> Thanks in advance...


White ceiling is a bad idea, especially if using a ceiling mount.
Behind the screen will depend a lot on the screen. My Carada brilliant white 1.3 gain passed very little light through the screen. But my motorized Elunevision 4K passed a surprising amount of light through the screen. Fortunately my back wall was dark wood.


----------



## RRF

Question about the Optical HDMI hookup...
Epson's 5050UB manual shows an optical HDMI connection that requires a USB connection.









Is this USB component a requirement for the 5050UB to use an optical HDMI cable, or will any optical HDMI cable work that has the optical Tx and Rx built into the HDMI connector?

A quick search did not find any optical HDMI/USB cables...just optical HDMI cables that are powered via the HDMI connector.


----------



## Mrkazador

No its not a requirement. Some optical HDMI cables require a bigger power source so it uses the usb port for that. The optical cable that I have doesnt use usb and it works fine.


----------



## zendalex

RRF said:


> Question about the Optical HDMI hookup...
> Epson's 5050UB manual shows an optical HDMI connection that requires a USB connection.
> 
> View attachment 3036819
> 
> Is this USB component a requirement for the 5050UB to use an optical HDMI cable, or will any optical HDMI cable work that has the optical Tx and Rx built into the HDMI connector?
> 
> A quick search did not find any optical HDMI/USB cables...just optical HDMI cables that are powered via the HDMI connector.


I have a 50' optical cable that connects xbox to 5050ub. The cable comes with usb connector, which can be plugged to a usb source. I tried it both ways and it works just as good without usb power.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## angrysponge

CZ Eddie said:


> I read that JVC's 4K projectors just got their second massive HDR firmware upgrade this week.
> Anyone heard any rumors on if Epson will ever release a firmware update to improve on HDR performance like JVC keeps doing?


i just noticed here that the firmware version on the 5050ub is now listed at 1.03? Updating now but do not see any info on what is new or addressed in the upgrade from 1.01 - link below
anyone?






Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US


Download projector firmware updates for select Epson projectors.




epson.com


----------



## Malodium

Hi all, I hope someone can help me with this input lag issue I am having. I was thinking of asking in the gaming section but you guys know everything about this projector so I thought it might be better asked here! 

I have my computer hooked up to the projector. Because 4k resolution in Windows is microscopic even on a 120inch screen, I had my computer desktop resolution set to 2k instead, even though 4k is shown as 'native' in the drop down of resolutions (didn't know at the time about Windows UI scaling).

I loaded up a game (Sekiro), and because playing at 4k causes my graphics card to sound like a jet engine (loud fans), I tried to turn down the in game resolution to 2k. For some reason though, it wont switch. It seems to try to, but keeps defaulting back to 4k.

So, I turn the desktop resolution back up to 4k once I found out about UI scaling, and turn on the UI scaling in Windows so everything isn't tiny. Now that the desktop resolution is set to 'native' 4k, in the game I am able to change the resolution down to 2k and it works.

However when it's running at 2k, I get TERRIBLE input lag. Very noticeable and frankly unplayable. When it's at 4k, the input lag is very minor and very playable.

So, why does the input lag go WAY up when I am not playing at the same resolution as the desktop is set to, and is there anything I can do to fix it?


----------



## Brajesh

Joining the 5050UB gang here, coming from a BenQ HT3550, after a lot of fence-straddling. Hope I made the right choice... my two concerns were (and still kinda, fingers crossed, are) sharpness w/4K and crosstalk-free 3D. Had a bad experience with 3 different 5040UB's and crosstalk/ghosting, which is why I had switched to DLP since then. But, loved my 5030UB. Hopefully proper 3D rendering isn't an issue anymore with 5050UB. Also, expecting significant gains on contrast, brightness, black levels and HDR!

So, I've made it through 101 pages of this massive thread, and looking for a few shortcuts to info, advice  ...

For 3D glasses, besides the XPAND X105, any others worth considering?
For PQ settings, are these still the most recommended? Any others y'all like better?
For my HT, any suggestions in terms of particular settings? Fully light-controlled room. I watch 45% 4K movies (mostly off discs and a few off Netflix/Prime), 30% 3D discs and 1080p movies (discs and streaming equally for latter), 20% HD concerts, and 5% OTA HD broadcasts.
Any other advice?


----------



## CZ Eddie

angrysponge said:


> i just noticed here that the firmware version on the 5050ub is now listed at 1.03? Updating now but do not see any info on what is new or addressed in the upgrade from 1.01 - link below
> anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US
> 
> 
> Download projector firmware updates for select Epson projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> epson.com


1.03 has been around for a few months.
It's what came on my 5050UB when I bought it two months ago. 
Since it was what came with my PJ, I don't know what is different about it vs 1.01.


----------



## RRF

Picked up a new 5050UB in Toronto today...despite the poor demo. They seem to be in short supply lately, and the price was right...meaning no discount, but it was inline with the recently reduced US price.
Looking forward to mounting it tonight, putting on some hours, then a full calibration.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Brajesh said:


> Joining the 5050UB gang here, coming from a BenQ HT3550, after a lot of fence-straddling. Hope I made the right choice... my two concerns were (and still kinda, fingers crossed, are) sharpness w/4K and crosstalk-free 3D. Had a bad experience with 3 different 5040UB's and crosstalk/ghosting, which is why I had switched to DLP since then. But, loved my 5030UB. Hopefully proper 3D rendering isn't an issue anymore with 5050UB. Also, expecting significant gains on contrast, brightness, black levels and HDR!
> 
> So, I've made it through 101 pages of this massive thread, and looking for a few shortcuts to info, advice  ...
> 
> For 3D glasses, besides the XPAND X105, any others worth considering?
> For PQ settings, are these still the most recommended? Any others y'all like better?
> For my HT, any suggestions in terms of particular settings? Fully light-controlled room. I watch 45% 4K movies (mostly off discs and a few off Netflix/Prime), 30% 3D discs and 1080p movies (discs and streaming equally for latter), 20% HD concerts, and 5% OTA HD broadcasts.
> Any other advice?


I use Samsung SSG-5100GB, i had them leftover from my previous projector, and they work perfectly.
I like that they are cheap, lightweight and i can use them over my regular glasses. 
Just make sure you run them on low brightness mode, or the ghosting gets crazy. Use high lamp mode in 3D for best image.


----------



## wickedg8gt

What's up guys! So after having my current Epson die. I'm going to be purchasing the 5050, in the near future. I want to get everything together so when the pj arrives, I'll have all accessories. So I have a couple questions. 

1. From reading alot of pages, seems to be alot of hdmi cord issues, with 4k not showing up or working. Could anyone tell me if this one from Monoprice that I already have would work. 





Monoprice 4K Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable 3ft - 18Gbps Black - Monoprice.com


Monoprice's Certified Premium High Speed HDMI® Cable is designed to meet and exceed the highest standards of HDMI performance. Capable of delivering 18Gbps bandwidth, the



www.monoprice.com





2. What is the dedicated Chief mount with ceiling plate and all for the 5050?

On a side note, a few pages back, a couple gentlemen were talking about the how the "bright cinema" is the best of the color modes but couldn't find the calibration for it. Did anyone ever find it?


----------



## RRF

What mount is everyone using for the 5050UB?

My old mount will just fit ...but only at 3 mount points and it is not centered on the balance point.
Not something you want to cheap out on, but the recommended Chief accessory mount is quite pricey.


----------



## martin0711

RRF said:


> What mount is everyone using for the 5050UB?
> 
> My old mount will just fit ...but only at 3 mount points and it is not centered on the balance point.
> Not something you want to cheap out on, but the recommended Chief accessory mount is quite pricey.


I'm using the "Premier Mounts Fine Tune Projector Mount FTP-095 " and absolutely love it. The fine tuning makes leveling the projector a breeze. To me it's well worth the money. Bought it "open box" from ebay at about half-price.


----------



## JonesyG

I'm hoping to make a 5050 work in a scenario with a short throw and a large screen and I'm coming up an inch or two short.

Today I noticed that the 5050 lens is inset a decent bit, which raises some questions:

Are projector calculator specifications _literally _measured from the lens to the screen? I know it's phrased _"from the lens,"_ but I'm wondering if the distance is actually from the lens itself, or if it's really just from the farthest forward part of the projector body. Depending on the answer here, I'd also like to know:
How deep inside the 5050 projector housing is the lens itself? How far _in _is the green circle from the red circle in the pic below?
Does this lens move in and out at all? If so, which settings cause it to move in and which cause it to move out?









Thanks in advance!


EDIT: This was answered in post #8,410.



> It's 1-5/16" from the outside of the casing ring to the lens surface.


----------



## usace

I'm curious what HDMI cable everyone is using. I have this Premium rated cable from monoprice that I was using with my older epson 5020, but am now upgrading to the 5050. If the 5050's HDMI ports are 18Gbps and the cable is certified premium and seems high quality, then my gut is telling me that it should work. Don't want to wait on the projector to get here to test it, only to find out the cable doesn't work, and then have to wait for a new cable to arrive.






Monoprice 4K Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable 3ft - 18Gbps Black - Monoprice.com


Monoprice's Certified Premium High Speed HDMI® Cable is designed to meet and exceed the highest standards of HDMI performance. Capable of delivering 18Gbps bandwidth, the



www.monoprice.com


----------



## Cacitems4sale

I'm also curious on the HDMI cable I should get; it will be used for the 6050. Does the one displayed by Usace provide Dolby Atmos capabilities?


----------



## zendalex

usace said:


> I'm curious what HDMI cable everyone is using. I have this Premium rated cable from monoprice that I was using with my older epson 5020, but am now upgrading to the 5050. If the 5050's HDMI ports are 18Gbps and the cable is certified premium and seems high quality, then my gut is telling me that it should work. Don't want to wait on the projector to get here to test it, only to find out the cable doesn't work, and then have to wait for a new cable to arrive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monoprice 4K Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable 3ft - 18Gbps Black - Monoprice.com
> 
> 
> Monoprice's Certified Premium High Speed HDMI® Cable is designed to meet and exceed the highest standards of HDMI performance. Capable of delivering 18Gbps bandwidth, the
> 
> 
> 
> www.monoprice.com


What length are you getting? If only 3' then I would not be concerned at all. The specs are exactly right. Longer than 20' I would rather get optical.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## zambine

Cacitems4sale said:


> I'm also curious on the HDMI cable I should get; it will be used for the 6050. Does the one displayed by Usace provide Dolby Atmos capabilities?


I am using this optical cable for a 30' run and it has worked flawlessly. I had trouble with several 18gbps non-optical cables passing 4k HDR signals from my PS4 Pro reliably.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X4QHZHF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_enpyFbB0Q48KB



Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## xplorar

Brajesh said:


> Joining the 5050UB gang here, coming from a BenQ HT3550, after a lot of fence-straddling. Hope I made the right choice... my two concerns were (and still kinda, fingers crossed, are) sharpness w/4K and crosstalk-free 3D. Had a bad experience with 3 different 5040UB's and crosstalk/ghosting, which is why I had switched to DLP since then. But, loved my 5030UB. Hopefully proper 3D rendering isn't an issue anymore with 5050UB. Also, expecting significant gains on contrast, brightness, black levels and HDR!
> 
> So, I've made it through 101 pages of this massive thread, and looking for a few shortcuts to info, advice  ...
> 
> For 3D glasses, besides the XPAND X105, any others worth considering?
> For PQ settings, are these still the most recommended? Any others y'all like better?
> For my HT, any suggestions in terms of particular settings? Fully light-controlled room. I watch 45% 4K movies (mostly off discs and a few off Netflix/Prime), 30% 3D discs and 1080p movies (discs and streaming equally for latter), 20% HD concerts, and 5% OTA HD broadcasts.
> Any other advice?


Congrats! So the projector is installed? Waiting to hear about your experience with concerns about 3D cross-talk and 4k sharpness. Keep us updated!


----------



## Cacitems4sale

zambine said:


> I am using this optical cable for a 30' run and it has worked flawlessly. I had trouble with several 18gbps non-optical cables passing 4k HDR signals from my PS4 Pro reliably.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X4QHZHF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_enpyFbB0Q48KB
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk


Thanks; I will look into that. Anyone have experience with this HDMI? https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Cabl...t=&hvlocphy=9017194&hvtargid=pla-828549404599


----------



## zendalex

Cacitems4sale said:


> Thanks; I will look into that. Anyone have experience with this HDMI? https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Cabl...t=&hvlocphy=9017194&hvtargid=pla-828549404599


I have this one and it worked perfectly so far



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NMZMJ68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GBpyFb5RMPSRK



Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## usace

zendalex said:


> What length are you getting? If only 3' then I would not be concerned at all. The specs are exactly right. Longer than 20' I would rather get optical.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Actually I have the 25ft cable - tried to link to that, but looks like my link defaults to the shortest length of that cable.


----------



## arnemetis

wickedg8gt said:


> What's up guys! So after having my current Epson die. I'm going to be purchasing the 5050, in the near future. I want to get everything together so when the pj arrives, I'll have all accessories. So I have a couple questions.
> 
> 1. From reading alot of pages, seems to be alot of hdmi cord issues, with 4k not showing up or working. Could anyone tell me if this one from Monoprice that I already have would work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monoprice 4K Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable 3ft - 18Gbps Black - Monoprice.com
> 
> 
> Monoprice's Certified Premium High Speed HDMI® Cable is designed to meet and exceed the highest standards of HDMI performance. Capable of delivering 18Gbps bandwidth, the
> 
> 
> 
> www.monoprice.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. What is the dedicated Chief mount with ceiling plate and all for the 5050?
> 
> On a side note, a few pages back, a couple gentlemen were talking about the how the "bright cinema" is the best of the color modes but couldn't find the calibration for it. Did anyone ever find it?





RRF said:


> What mount is everyone using for the 5050UB?
> 
> My old mount will just fit ...but only at 3 mount points and it is not centered on the balance point.
> Not something you want to cheap out on, but the recommended Chief accessory mount is quite pricey.





usace said:


> I'm curious what HDMI cable everyone is using. I have this Premium rated cable from monoprice that I was using with my older epson 5020, but am now upgrading to the 5050. If the 5050's HDMI ports are 18Gbps and the cable is certified premium and seems high quality, then my gut is telling me that it should work. Don't want to wait on the projector to get here to test it, only to find out the cable doesn't work, and then have to wait for a new cable to arrive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monoprice 4K Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable 3ft - 18Gbps Black - Monoprice.com
> 
> 
> Monoprice's Certified Premium High Speed HDMI® Cable is designed to meet and exceed the highest standards of HDMI performance. Capable of delivering 18Gbps bandwidth, the
> 
> 
> 
> www.monoprice.com





Cacitems4sale said:


> I'm also curious on the HDMI cable I should get; it will be used for the 6050. Does the one displayed by Usace provide Dolby Atmos capabilities?


Just wanted to offer up my experience as I just set up my 5050UB two weeks ago. My setup is a 25' hdmi cable from the projector to the wall plate, 3' hdmi from wall plate to HDFury AVR Key (splits audio and video so I didn't have to replace my receiver) and then a 3' hdmi from the AVR Key to my nvidia shield. The hdmi cables are Cable Matters premium certified, and the mount I went with is the QualGear Pro-AV QG-KIT-CA-3IN-B. In particular the 25' cable was extremely thick! I have watched a few movies and several episodes of Planet Earth II in 4k HDR without a single cutout of any kind. I will say swapping out the last 3' cable for a run of the mill high speed 6' cable ended up with video cutting out every few seconds, so I think there is absolutely a benefit to these cables. I'll link these all here, so you can all take a look and decide if you want to go this route:

25' hdmi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081132R3B/ 3' hdmi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BZG8FK/ Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1JFLV6/


----------



## Brajesh

xplorar said:


> Congrats! So the projector is installed? Waiting to hear about your experience with concerns about 3D cross-talk and 4k sharpness. Keep us updated!


Thanks. Ordered last week from Parker Gwen, but hasn't shipped yet.


----------



## RRF

Managed to utilize my old mount after digging up the box of spare parts I saved for 13 years!
First impressions are very favorable. This 5050 is very bright, even on Natural mode.
I am set up at 13' to a 100" screen, sitting directly below projector in ECO mode, and it is very quiet. I can hear a slight rumble from the auto iris when navigating menus on the Vero4K.
Unfortunately most of my equipment...AVR, 4x4 matrix hdmi switch, hdmi cables...are not 4K compliant, but 4K sources are scaled down to SDR with no noticeable depreciation.
Interesting side note...the Epson 5050UB was exactly the same price that I paid for the Panasonic PT-AE2000U in 2007.


----------



## rollon1980

RRF said:


> Viewed the 5050ub today in a viewing room.
> Although it was placed in the primary location, I was very underwhelmed.
> Viewing mode was "Cinema" and the lamp had just 220 hours. I was expecting a much brighter image. There was a lot of red push and when I finally managed to get a 100 IRE displayed, it was distinctly pink, with a perceptible white band running diagonally across the screen. A calibration disk was not available...my fault for not bringing any...and focus could have been improved.
> Salesman was more interested in trying to impress me with his demo movie than adjusting for accuracy.
> Next up was the JVC NX5. Damn that's a big unit. But again, focus and convergence issues.
> The whole experience made me really appreciate my 13 year old PT-AE2000U, with it's waveform calibration and CMS built in tools. I just hope I can get it working again by dismantling and cleaning out all the ventilation fans, temp sensors, and passages.


The cinema picture mode engages the filter and cuts light output in half! If you were watching SDR, it will also give hugely inaccurate colour. Best to use Natural! 

I’ve had plenty of JVCs. I can tell you that the Epson is much brighter even at my 1000hrs on my lamp. In fact, the Epson lamp has been a lot more stable than any JVC. I’m so impressed, I’m replacing my x35 in another room with another Epson. ;-) 

JVC lamps looks great for about 600hrs then downhill from there unfortunately. I prefer a bright image. 

Oh, I could afford to buy not one but two spare lamps. Even tho this lamp is still great in SDR, I’m replacing it yearly to keep HDR as bright as possible. Time for a replacement soon. ;-)


----------



## rollon1980

RRF said:


> Managed to utilize my old mount after digging up the box of spare parts I saved for 13 years!
> First impressions are very favorable. This 5050 is very bright, even on Natural mode.
> I am set up at 13' to a 100" screen, sitting directly below projector in ECO mode, and it is very quiet. I can hear a slight rumble from the auto iris when navigating menus on the Vero4K.
> Unfortunately most of my equipment...AVR, 4x4 matrix hdmi switch, hdmi cables...are not 4K compliant, but 4K sources are scaled down to SDR with no noticeable depreciation.
> Interesting side note...the Epson 5050UB was exactly the same price that I paid for the Panasonic PT-AE2000U in 2007.


I should have read to the end of the thread. You did go with it. Good on you!


----------



## osufalcon

Are there particular 3D glasses I would need to get for compatibility with the 5050ub? I have some old Panasonic Viera glasses from my ST50 and some Samsung SSG-4100GB now, but don’t know if those will work and I need to grab some newer glasses.


----------



## bbdmac

The glasses I had for my Panasonic PT-AE7000u projector don't work with my new 5050ub. I've ordered some compatible glasses that are generic versions of the Epson ELPGS03 glasses. I just received my 5050ub on Monday and I'm blown away by how great the picture is. I'm very happy with my decision. Plus it was on sale at the Dell web site and I'm an employee so I also saved another 17% off their low price (which of course I won't mention!).



osufalcon said:


> Are there particular 3D glasses I would need to get for compatibility with the 5050ub? I have some old Panasonic Viera glasses from my ST50 and some Samsung SSG-4100GB now, but don’t know if those will work and I need to grab some newer glasses.
> [/QUOT


----------



## RRF

rollon1980 said:


> The cinema picture mode engages the filter and cuts light output in half!


Are you sure about that...? According to the manual, it is the Digital Cinema mode that inserts the filter.
Regardless, it was just a poor demo. The irony is, a few years ago they wanted me to become their in-house on call calibrator...which I turned down.


----------



## angrysponge

usace said:


> I'm curious what HDMI cable everyone is using. I have this Premium rated cable from monoprice that I was using with my older epson 5020, but am now upgrading to the 5050. If the 5050's HDMI ports are 18Gbps and the cable is certified premium and seems high quality, then my gut is telling me that it should work. Don't want to wait on the projector to get here to test it, only to find out the cable doesn't work, and then have to wait for a new cable to arrive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monoprice 4K Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable 3ft - 18Gbps Black - Monoprice.com
> 
> 
> Monoprice's Certified Premium High Speed HDMI® Cable is designed to meet and exceed the highest standards of HDMI performance. Capable of delivering 18Gbps bandwidth, the
> 
> 
> 
> www.monoprice.com


I have had this for a month now and its been terrific.. no handshake issues wit 4k 60 content at all




https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X4QHZHF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## cky2354

osufalcon said:


> Are there particular 3D glasses I would need to get for compatibility with the 5050ub? I have some old Panasonic Viera glasses from my ST50 and some Samsung SSG-4100GB now, but don’t know if those will work and I need to grab some newer glasses.


I had the Samsung SSG-5100 and they were terrible and even ruled out 3D on the 5050ub. Then someone mentioned better 3D glasses on here I upgraded to the Xpand X105-RF-X1 and they have been the best 3D glasses for this projector. I now have 8 pair of them and can get it on Amazon for about $40. I also bought the geninue OEM Epson glasses and I have admit they were more comfortable but they were actually darker and made the picture more dim than the Xpand glasses. Just remember to do the picture setting tweaks as well and you will get ghost free and crosstalk free picture for best 3D experience! It's just that amazing!


----------



## arnemetis

RRF said:


> Are you sure about that...? According to the manual, it is the Digital Cinema mode that inserts the filter.
> Regardless, it was just a poor demo. The irony is, a few years ago they wanted me to become their in-house on call calibrator...which I turned down.


I can tell you right now that switching to either mode results in a delay and you can hear the filter being switched into place. Per projectorreviews.com's review of it - "Digital Cinema and Cinema modes use Epson’s Cinema filter to improve color (out to P3), but at the cost of a good 40% of brightness when engaged compared to other modes without the Cinema filter."


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

cky2354 said:


> I had the Samsung SSG-5100 and they were terrible and even ruled out 3D on the 5050ub. Then someone mentioned better 3D glasses on here I upgraded to the Xpand X105-RF-X1 and they have been the best 3D glasses for this projector. I now have 8 pair of them and can get it on Amazon for about $40. I also bought the geninue OEM Epson glasses and I have admit they were more comfortable but they were actually darker and made the picture more dim than the Xpand glasses. Just remember to do the picture setting tweaks as well and you will get ghost free and crosstalk free picture for best 3D experience! It's just that amazing!


I have both the Samsung and the xpand,and if you have a bit of a large head,the expand will get REALLY uncomfortable as they are heavy,and really press in on the skull in the sides.. The Samsung does not "rule out" 3D,they work perfectly well,and are light weight and can be used on top of real glasses.. Also, Samsung uses button cell batteries which is a lot better than xpand having to be recharged,so it is all a matter of personal preference
I have the 5060ub/tw9400 and i asume it is the same with the 5050ub


----------



## fredworld

I have a half dozen pairs of these that I got from another site on a clearance sale: https://www.ebay.com/c/1201040927 
Seems Samsung has discontinued them. My guests remark how comfortable they are and how impresssive the 3D is. 
This is the Samsung site page: 3D Glasses SSG-4100GB | SSG-4100GB/ZD | Samsung Hong Kong


----------



## anilrao

Anyone updated Apple TV os to 14? Had HDR before update, no HDR now.
Can anyone verify?


----------



## achanonier

Hi there I have a quick question. Does the wireless version handles 4k HDR 60hz signal with the wireless box ?
Thx in advance !


----------



## a world to win

@achanonier, only 4k HDR @30Hz over wireless, sadly! Regards.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

angrysponge said:


> I have had this for a month now and its been terrific.. no handshake issues wit 4k 60 content at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X4QHZHF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


 Is the cord capable of 7.4? Also, I’m sure this is a very basic question but trying to figure what I connect the 6050 to-the receiver or blu Ray? I have Denon 3700h. Thanks


----------



## moody2876

I have about 10 hours on my 5050ub and I am displaying onto my 135in spandax screen. I am coming from my 10 year old 8350. I am worried about convergence issues, I see a 1 pixel green hue off to the left side of some letters on the screen. It seem there is a panel alignmen feature, but no mention of green being able to be adjusted. 

I have only had it 4 days should I swap it out at BestBuy or try the panel alignment feature. Any side effect to adjusting the panel? My 8350 also had a 1 pixel green convergence issue.

Just not sure if this is as close as they get on alignment or got one with convergence issues?

Thanks

Love the Picture


----------



## zendalex

moody2876 said:


> I have about 10 hours on my 5050ub and I am displaying onto my 135in spandax screen. I am coming from my 10 year old 8350. I am worried about convergence issues, I see a 1 pixel green hue off to the left side of some letters on the screen. It seem there is a panel alignmen feature, but no mention of green being able to be adjusted.
> 
> I have only had it 4 days should I swap it out at BestBuy or try the panel alignment feature. Any side effect to adjusting the panel? My 8350 also had a 1 pixel green convergence issue.
> 
> Just not sure if this is as close as they get on alignment or got one with convergence issues?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Love the Picture


Hi,

I had my first 5050ub having bad alignment which completely ruined my comparison with cheaper benq 3550. Epson appeared fuzzy so initially I solidified my conclusion that I should keep benq. Only to realize in few weeks that I cant stand the rbe's from benq dlp implementation. So despite my not so good experience with 5050 I had to order epson second time. And I am glad I did and especially that I was able to get a fantastic price on it just 2 weeks ago.

This second 5050 convergence is way better than the first unit, so everything is way way sharper out of the box. So I think you should try and swap your unit for a better one.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Brajesh

Guys, need some help. Not seeing a way to only search this thread... just got my 5050UB and feeding it my nVidia Shield TV via Yamaha 3050 AVR. I'm playing several 4K HDR samples and for all 4K Enhancement is greyed-out. Why is this?


----------



## biglen

Brajesh said:


> Guys, need some help. Not seeing a way to only search this thread... just got my 5050UB and feeding it my nVidia Shield TV via Yamaha 3050 AVR. I'm playing several 4K HDR samples and for all 4K Enhancement is greyed-out. Why is this?


When it's grayed out, it means it's on. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Brajesh

Doh! Thanks! Right off the bat, comparing with my BenQ HT3550, my pre-purchase worries of sharpness for 4K at seating distance has turned out to be a non-issue. PQ appears just as sharp, but with added pop... brightness (a lot more), contrast, and deeper blacks. Pretty impressed so far.

Edit: Spoke too soon; noticing pixel structure, which I don't see with BenQ. I have a 150" 16:9 screen and sit about 14.5 ft back. With the Epson by my back wall, which 16 ft from the screen, I pretty much have to max out the zoom to fill the screen. Wondering if max zoom shows more of the SDE, pixel structure?


----------



## zendalex

Brajesh said:


> Doh! Thanks! Right off the bat, comparing with my BenQ HT3550, my pre-purchase worries of sharpness for 4K at seating distance has turned out to be a non-issue. PQ appears just as sharp, but with added pop... brightness (a lot more), contrast, and deeper blacks. Pretty impressed so far.
> 
> Edit: Spoke too soon; noticing pixel structure, which I don't see with BenQ. I have a 150" 16:9 screen and sit about 14.5 ft back. With the Epson by my back wall, which 16 ft from the screen, I pretty much have to max out the zoom to fill the screen. Wondering if max zoom shows more of the SDE, pixel structure?


I have 135" screen and sit about 13ft, and pj hangs just over me, so I am also maxed out on the zoom. I can see sde only if I get much closer to the screen. On my previous unit, halos were much more visible than on the second unit. I do see pixel structure on 2nd unit, but I figured it is completely irrelevant when watching movies.. everything is rather sharp. Well 3550 benq probably appeared even sharper, but the pic was much flatter looking due to poorer contrast. Epson is just more 3d like.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Brajesh

Thanks, I'm kinda considering masking my screen to go down to 140" or even 133", but also hate the idea of downsizing. Using the spreadsheet here, its 'recommended' screen size for my viewing distance says smaller screen, but in reality I've gotten used to 150" with my BenQ .


----------



## zendalex

Brajesh said:


> Thanks, I'm kinda considering masking my screen to go down to 140" or even 133", but also hate the idea of downsizing. Using the spreadsheet here, its 'recommended' screen size for my viewing distance says smaller screen, but in reality I've gotten used to 150" with my BenQ .


Yeah I hear you. And in all honesty I would have just settled with benq, picture quality was very good and the price was great and its small and light. But rbe killed it for me. Every time a scene changed I would get a flash light glimpse like sunlight reflected to my eyes.. just couldnt stand it. My wife has no issued though and she even gets puzzled when I describe this effect to her. She still prefers Epson as it appears way more realistic to her due to the depth of the image. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Brajesh

3D quality is very good. Significantly brighter and deeper than my BenQ HT3550. Notice minor crosstalk with problematic titles like 'The Mummy' w/Tom Cruise and its dark scenes. But, not seeing the egregious issues I had w/multiple 5040UB units. Overall, leaning toward keeping the Epson and eBay'ing off the BenQ. SDE/pixel structure is visible, but only when a few feet away from the screen... if this PJ falls slightly short vs. BenQ, it's this. But, everything else, Epson shines.

Likely will go down screen size to 140" and reduce the maxed out zoom, and use opportunity to building masking panels for scope movies.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Brajesh said:


> 3D quality is very good. Significantly brighter and deeper than my BenQ HT3550. Notice minor crosstalk with problematic titles like 'The Mummy' w/Tom Cruise and its dark scenes. But, not seeing the egregious issues I had w/multiple 5040UB units. Overall, leaning toward keeping the Epson and eBay'ing off the BenQ. SDE/pixel structure is visible, but only when a few feet away from the screen... if this PJ falls slightly short vs. BenQ, it's this. But, everything else, Epson shines.
> 
> Likely will go down screen size to 140" and reduce the maxed out zoom, and use opportunity to building masking panels for scope movies.


You watch it from 3 feet away? I have a 5040UB and must have got a good one because rarely ever crosstalk 3D even with glasses on high.


----------



## Brajesh

Um, no, never mentioned "3 feet away". Glad you got lucky with your 5040UB; was not the case with 3 separate units I had... all suffered from awful crosstalk with 3D. This was the reason I switched to DLP and stayed there... until now.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Brajesh said:


> Um, no, never mentioned "3 feet away". Glad you got lucky with your 5040UB; was not the case with 3 separate units I had... all suffered from awful crosstalk with 3D. This was the reason I switched to DLP and stayed there... until now.


SDE/pixel structure is visible, but only when a few feet away from the screen... if this PJ falls slightly short vs. BenQ, it's this.


----------



## Brajesh

I didn't say "3 feet", but in any case don't think I'm saying anything controversial. With closer to actual 4K rez on BenQ vs. 2K on Epson, closer to the screen, one notices that BenQ has more resolution as should be expected. But, as many others have said in this thread, at actual viewing distances, it's a non-issue.


----------



## RRF

Is there any actual advantage to feeding this projector a 4K signal versus a 2K signal...with all other signal components being equal?


----------



## CZ Eddie

Brajesh said:


> Thanks, I'm kinda considering masking my screen to go down to 140" or even 133", but also hate the idea of downsizing. Using the spreadsheet here, its 'recommended' screen size for my viewing distance says smaller screen, but in reality I've gotten used to 150" with my BenQ .


Wow, that spreadsheet is crazy.
IMO, screen size should have nothing to do with resolution.
If all we cared about was the best possible picture quality, then we would be buying set top TV's.

Projectors put the "_movie theater experience_" ahead of video quality, so I think we should instead optimize our screen size based on the best possible *experience*.

One way to do that is to put your hands on either side of your eyes, like blinders for a horse.
Your screen size should not be any wider than your hands/blinders.
And you should try to get the screen to be as close as possible to the width you can see with your "blinders" from your preferred seating position.


----------



## biglen

Brajesh said:


> Doh! Thanks! Right off the bat, comparing with my BenQ HT3550, my pre-purchase worries of sharpness for 4K at seating distance has turned out to be a non-issue. PQ appears just as sharp, but with added pop... brightness (a lot more), contrast, and deeper blacks. Pretty impressed so far.
> 
> Edit: Spoke too soon; noticing pixel structure, which I don't see with BenQ. I have a 150" 16:9 screen and sit about 14.5 ft back. With the Epson by my back wall, which 16 ft from the screen, I pretty much have to max out the zoom to fill the screen. Wondering if max zoom shows more of the SDE, pixel structure?


I'm at max zoom, 135" scope, about 12' away, and I see zero SDE. If you want to take your Epson to the next level, use a HTPC running MadVR to watch your movies, like I'm doing. The zero SDE is with MadVR, and when using my Shield TV, which doesn't use MadVR. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## AnotherSteve

ckronengold said:


> *Fan noise getting worse?*
> 
> Maybe i'm losing my mind a little, but I feel like the fan noise on my 5050 is getting steadily louder.
> 
> When I first got it, I didn't think the fan noise was all that loud at all. Other than in the quietest of scenes, I didn't hear the fan.
> 
> But lately I'm being distracted by it more and more. I didn't think that Hobbs and Shaw would have been a movie that I heard fan noise from 8' in front of the fan.
> 
> Just me?


Hi there - I am going through exactly the same thing. I feel certain it was much quieter when I first installed it. Did you come to any resolution on this?


----------



## AnotherSteve

alkit said:


> *Epson 5050UB whining noise*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just bought a brand new Epson 5050UB (EH-TW9400 from where I'm from).
> 
> After installing it and powering on all my equipment, I get the following high pitched whine from it (you can hear the fans, but those sound normal and are to be expected - the whine, as it is high pitched is the annoying sound).
> 
> Can anyone else with a 5050UB confirm if this is normal or if I got one with an issue and need to send it back?
> 
> Sound file: https://www.geewiz.co.za/temp/sound1.wav
> 
> Thanks in advance


Hi there - I'm experiencing the exact same thing. Your sound file link doesn't work anymore so I can't compare to mine. Did you come to any resolution on this?


----------



## plain fan

@JonseyG, every projector is different when it comes to "measuring to the screen." The actual, physical point to measure from the projector to the screen should be in the user manual. For some projectors it is from the lens, others specify a mounting hole, a location on the case, etc.


----------



## xplorar

Brajesh said:


> 3D quality is very good. Significantly brighter and deeper than my BenQ HT3550. Notice minor crosstalk with problematic titles like 'The Mummy' w/Tom Cruise and its dark scenes. But, not seeing the egregious issues I had w/multiple 5040UB units.


Glad to know that crosstalk is lesser than expected. Which glasses are you using?


----------



## JonesyG

Thanks PLAIN FAN. Do you have a 5050 or 6050? Can you take a measurement tell me how far *in *the lens is?

If I take my room length and subtract the length of the projector (assuming it will be placed against the back wall), it's still an inch or two too close to my screen to fill it.

But if the lens is an inch or two *in *from the front end of the projector, I might be able to make it work.


At this point, I think I'm going to probably need to just order one from a dealer with a liberal return policy. I have several concerns:

The ability to fill my screen in my short room.
The bug where Lens Memory doesn't go back to the exact spot each time.
Fan noise issues I've read about here.
General concerns about panel convergence, pad pixels, etc.


----------



## Brajesh

xplorar said:


> Glad to know that crosstalk is lesser than expected. Which glasses are you using?


Experimenting with 3 types so far... XPAND X105, these Elikliv (which I like the best so far) and these Elikliv.


----------



## xplorar

Brajesh said:


> Experimenting with 3 types so far... XPAND X105, these Elikliv (which I like the best so far) and these Elikliv.


Is it possible to use PlayStation3 3D glasses with this projector? They gave me the best result in my old 5010 projector. They were InfraRed based glasses, so not sure whether there is any way to make it work with 5050.
By "deeper 3D picture" do you mean that you see more depth separation than 3550?


----------



## Brajesh

Yes, because of Epson’s better brightness, contrast and blacks with 3D.


----------



## plain fan

@JonseyG, no I do not have a 5050/6050, but they are one of two options I'm considering.

I just went through the manual for the 5050 and I'm pretty shocked that there is no specific position mentioned other than the "lense" for making measurements. The manual did recommend using the online tools at the website for confirming setup:






Projection Distance Calculators | Epson US


View the Epson Projection Distance Calculators and Display Size Calculator for optimal projection setup.




epson.com


----------



## asolor78

DaGamePimp said:


> I should be able to run through a basic Bright Cinema calibration over the long weekend and post the settings for those that are interested. I need an excuse to get back to calibrating the various modes, have not touched it in a while. Consider that I am at around 1100 hours on the lamp (will be ordering a new one soon) so my settings may not work well for units with much lower hours.
> 
> * just ordered a new lamp
> 
> - Jason


Any update on that bright cinema or new calibration settings?


----------



## DaGamePimp

asolor78 said:


> Any update on that bright cinema or new calibration settings?


Sorry, I had more equipment fail after a recent storm, lost my daily use pc power supply and it smoked 4 drives (2 SSD's and 2 mechanical, and of course I didn't have my C drive backed up ).

Also due to the smoke from the fires here in the PNW I wanted to wait to install the new lamp (and clean the filter) because even with the house closed up the smoke found its way inside. 

I still plan to do it, just having a series of electronics issues to deal with. 

- Jason


----------



## asolor78

Ahh bummer man, understandable. Hope you can get any inportant files back...Stay safe man... 2020 is just an asterisk for everyone in life .. at this point really just waiting for zombies or gemlins.. (cause im sure the aliens are watching us like a soap opera)😂


----------



## DaGamePimp

asolor78 said:


> Ahh bummer man, understandable. Hope you can get any inportant files back...Stay safe man... 2020 is just an asterisk for everyone in life .. at this point really just waiting for zombies or gemlins.. (cause im sure the aliens are watching us like a soap opera)😂


Yeah I hear that, I am so thankful that I have my wife and son to keep me moving forward. 

I hope the insanity ends soon, easily the worst several years of my 51+ on this earth (especially 2020 ) and I consider myself to be one of the lucky ones.

Stay safe and sane. 

- Jason


----------



## richh

Hello,

New 5050UB owner here. I noticed when I turn off the projector the bulb and fan turn off immediately. On my old projector the fan would continue to run for a minute or so after the bulb turned off I assume to help cool things down. Is this normal for the 5050UB?


----------



## DaGamePimp

richh said:


> Hello,
> 
> New 5050UB owner here. I noticed when I turn off the projector the bulb and fan turn off immediately. On my old projector the fan would continue to run for a minute or so after the bulb turned off I assume to help cool things down. Is this normal for the 5050UB?


Yes, it's normal. I have noticed that mine will run a little longer if the ambient temp is higher (but shuts off instantly when the AC is rocking).

- Jason


----------



## laoping

Question. .I've installed my 5050.. all is going ok for now... I forgot to run an ir control cable to projector.. This can be fixed as I ran conduit to it.. But I noticed it the app you can control the projector of the network.. Wondering if anyone has the projector to be controlled from something like the harmony, but over the network?


----------



## mauro145

hi all, another question, I noticed that focus in my projector is not even. On the top middle part of the screen seems to be much better than on the bottom middle. I tried to move the screen and also move the image with the lens shift but it didnt change much. Is this to be expected?


----------



## psraj

mauro145 said:


> hi all, another question, I noticed that focus in my projector is not even. On the top middle part of the screen seems to be much better than on the bottom middle. I tried to move the screen and also move the image with the lens shift but it didnt change much. Is this to be expected?
> View attachment 3039183
> 
> View attachment 3039184


Seems more like a panel alignment to me


----------



## zendalex

mauro145 said:


> hi all, another question, I noticed that focus in my projector is not even. On the top middle part of the screen seems to be much better than on the bottom middle. I tried to move the screen and also move the image with the lens shift but it didnt change much. Is this to be expected?
> View attachment 3039183
> 
> View attachment 3039184


It means the angle of projector vs screen is incorrect. If you draw a line from projector rare through the lens towards the screen - is it perpendicular? Try to change that angle and things should improve. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## amairphoto

hungarianhc said:


> Hey there - are you plugging it directly into the projector? Or into an AVR? If AVR, there may be some setting off there. I have the 5050UB, and it definitely is detected as a 4K60 device.


I'm running it through a Denon X6500H.

I'll play around with it a bit more when I get my new graphics card. I was plugging it into the hdmi in the front of the receiver. I don't know if that makes a difference.


----------



## rekbones

laoping said:


> Question. .I've installed my 5050.. all is going ok for now... I forgot to run an ir control cable to projector.. This can be fixed as I ran conduit to it.. But I noticed it the app you can control the projector of the network.. Wondering if anyone has the projector to be controlled from something like the harmony, but over the network?


Normally you don't need an IR repeater for the projector. Aim the remote at the screen and it reflects back to the projector.


----------



## ShadowBoy

Hi, braintrust. I've lost the link to a really good projector calculator throw distance site I used to have on my computer that died. Can any of you give advice as to whether the 6050/9400 can fill a 170 inch diagonal 2:37:1 cinemascope screen from 17.3 feet/5.3 metres? the couple of sites I've seen give really conflicting information. I need to know for sure before building my hush box. Thanks one and all.


----------



## mauro145

zendalex said:


> It means the angle of projector vs screen is incorrect. If you draw a line from projector rare through the lens towards the screen - is it perpendicular? Try to change that angle and things should improve.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Thank you. I tried putting the projector on a coffee table and the focus was much more even so I guess you were right. My projector is on a shelf and I use a lot of lens shift, I wonder if that introduces some degree of distortion. 

Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

ShadowBoy said:


> Hi, braintrust. I've lost the link to a really good projector calculator throw distance site I used to have on my computer that died. Can any of you give advice as to whether the 6050/9400 can fill a 170 inch diagonal 2:37:1 cinemascope screen from 17.3 feet/5.3 metres? the couple of sites I've seen give really conflicting information. I need to know for sure before building my hush box. Thanks one and all.


This is my favorite calculator. I think the 5050 is not in the data base but the 5040 is and the lens are the same.





JACK LIU Projection Calculator, world's most intuitive projection calculator


projection calculator with zoom and lens shift adjustment




www.reviewtranslations.com


----------



## zendalex

mauro145 said:


> Thank you. I tried putting the projector on a coffee table and the focus was much more even so I guess you were right. My projector is on a shelf and I use a lot of lens shift, I wonder if that introduces some degree of distortion.
> 
> Enviado desde mi Moto G (5S) mediante Tapatalk


I think top vs bottom focus difference implies you also use a lot of vertical keystone correction. Also, from what I understand projector should either be in upright position when you project from below and should be in upside down position when projecting from above. If you have it on a shelf, just try to raise/lower rear or front to change the angle and correct the image with the keystone, hopefully things should improve.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Dev Saini

I just got my new 5050ub and it is amazing. I have not mounted yet to my ceiling, just playing with it, I placed it on a table (waiting for my HT to finish . I noticed that the image is not a perfect rectangle, the gap (on right corner) is quite visible, is anyone having the same issue? I searched for the solutions and seems like Quick Corner in other Epson projectors can resolve this easily but that feature is not in 5050UB, appreciate any help before I return and replace with another, I still have another 15 days to return.
Thanks!


----------



## JonfromCB

Dev Saini said:


> I just got my new 5050ub and it is amazing. I have not mounted yet to my ceiling, just playing with it, I placed it on a table (waiting for my HT to finish . I noticed that the image is not a perfect rectangle, the gap (on right corner) is quite visible, is anyone having the same issue? I searched for the solutions and seems like Quick Corner in other Epson projectors can resolve this easily but that feature is not in 5050UB, appreciate any help before I return and replace with another, I still have another 15 days to return.
> Thanks!


A good picture of the problem will get you the best diagnosis.


----------



## fredworld

Yesterday, I got an email from MyProjectorLamps. They are having a 72 hour 10% off sale on Epson lamps with free shipping. Use coupon code EPSON10. The replacement lamp for the 5050UB, ELPLP89, is in *this link*.


----------



## usace

New owner here. Totally impressed with this unit so far. One minor issue is that I can't get the projector to turn off consistently using my harmony elite remote. I am coming from an Epson 5020ub, and initially I didn't even update my Harmony account to the new projector model. It seemed to turn on the new projector and sometimes turn off the new projector even with the old projector settings. I updated the settings to the 5050ub thinking there might be different delays required with the new model, but still having the same outcome. Is anyone using the harmony elite with their 5050ub, and if so, what are your experiences, and are there any special settings I should be using? Thanks!


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> Yesterday, I got an email from MyProjectorLamps. They are having a 72 hour 10% off sale on Epson lamps with free shipping. Use coupon code EPSON10. The replacement lamp for the 5050UB, ELPLP89, is in *this link*.


I got this too,but it doesnt work for me... Tried many times buying 2 lamps,keeps saying "promotion code not valid" or some variation of that..

For Europeans with this projector i can recommend Lamps & Parts LampsAndParts

Good service,cheap prices,and same lamps as original.. I have bought all my lamps there for 6 years..


----------



## Cacitems4sale

angrysponge said:


> I have had this for a month now and its been terrific.. no handshake issues wit 4k 60 content at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X4QHZHF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


This is what i ended up ordering. Anyone have experience with this and does this appear that it will work with a 25' length.





Amazon.com: Monoprice 121510 Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 25 Feet | 4K[email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4: Electronics


Amazon.com: Monoprice 121510 Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 25 Feet | [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4: Electronics



www.amazon.com


----------



## usace

Cacitems4sale said:


> This is what i ended up ordering. Anyone have experience with this and does this appear that it will work with a 25' length.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Monoprice 121510 Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 25 Feet | [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4: Electronics
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Monoprice 121510 Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 25 Feet | [email protected], HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4: Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


I have both of these cables and they both work just fine. I had the 25' premium monoprice cable already being used on my old projector, but while I was waiting on the projector to arrive I went ahead and bought the 30' amazon basics fiber cable. I wasn't feeling confident about the monoprice cable, given that it just met the minimum specs required. I figured the fiber cable in theory had more bandwidth, and didn't want the new projector to show up and not have a cable that worked. I thought about returning the newer cable, but decided just to run it anyway and leave the other installed as a backup, just in case.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

Dumb question but I read that Fiber optic HDMI doesn’t have as many audio channels, hence that’s why I choose not to purchase. However, my lack of knowledge of everything is feeding through my receiver (bp, cable converter), the audio is coming from that and not the projector, correct? 

how is the fiber cable working for you?


----------



## extensioncord

I recently purchased a 5050ub, just noticed that there is a red dot when the screen is dark or switching between color modes. It is in the bottom right quadrant. It is not noticable during regular viewing from a normal seating distance, however if you stand right up at the screen, a dot is visible in that location. I'm wondering whether to just let it go, I'm still within the return policy so could return it, but don't know if it is worth the hassle, and if there's a risk of getting a worse unit in return.


----------



## mon2479

Question: I was watching a movie from Netflix on my roku and the PJ info page said it was HDR10. I connected my roku to my oppo 203 via the hdmi input but now the movie was being shown in SDR according to the PJ info page. Why is that? All of the setting on the oppo are set to automatic. If I watch a 4k movie on the oppo, the PJ info page does show HDR10. What am I missing?


----------



## jaredmwright

usace said:


> New owner here. Totally impressed with this unit so far. One minor issue is that I can't get the projector to turn off consistently using my harmony elite remote. I am coming from an Epson 5020ub, and initially I didn't even update my Harmony account to the new projector model. It seemed to turn on the new projector and sometimes turn off the new projector even with the old projector settings. I updated the settings to the 5050ub thinking there might be different delays required with the new model, but still having the same outcome. Is anyone using the harmony elite with their 5050ub, and if so, what are your experiences, and are there any special settings I should be using? Thanks!


I had this issue when using my Nvidia Shield. It has to do with the Bluetooth connection to Harmony or HDMI CEC. I have my Nvidia Shield set to stay on vs power off and it resolves the issue. I don't mind if it stays on since it resolves my issue. Maybe a device in your chain is causing a similar issue. Try choosing option in the Device settings to stay on and see what happens if you can. Maybe by process of elimination you can find it. I came from a 5030ub and was in the same situation, never had an issue before.


----------



## zambine

Cacitems4sale said:


> Dumb question but I read that Fiber optic HDMI doesn’t have as many audio channels, hence that’s why I choose not to purchase. However, my lack of knowledge of everything is feeding through my receiver (bp, cable converter), the audio is coming from that and not the projector, correct?
> 
> how is the fiber cable working for you?


That's completely untrue about fiber optic HDMI cables my friend. Fiber optic HDMIs have much higher bandwidth potential than traditional cables. You are referring to a fiber optic audio cable that is pretty old tech at this point. 

Point being that a fiber optic HDMI is great for passing audio and [email protected] HDR video. I use a 35 foot Amazon basics brand going from my receiver to my 5050UB and have not had one handshake issue yet. I hope this helps.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## JonesyG

@extensioncord, my first projector (many years ago) had a blue pixel that was stuck "on." It looks to me as if you have a red one stuck on.

I tried to live with it for a short time. I even put a little grey piece of tape on my screen to "dampen" the effect. 

I invited some friends over to watch THE TERMINATOR. When the terminator was walking down from Griffith Observatory in search of clothing, one of my guests shouted out: _"Oh, now the blue dot is on his wee-wee!"_

I returned the projector.

For the replacement, I asked the seller to open the box and perform a quality check before sending it to me, and I did the same on my second (current) projector.

A red dot may not be as bad/ bright as a blue dot, but my advice is to return it.

$0.02

PS: Before you return it, could you measure the distance from the very front of the projector to the lens for me? I'm trying to find out how far "in" the lens is from the front!


----------



## arnemetis

JonesyG said:


> @extensioncord, my first projector (many years ago) had a blue pixel that was stuck "on." It looks to me as if you have a red one stuck on.
> 
> I tried to live with it for a short time. I even put a little grey piece of tape on my screen to "dampen" the effect.
> 
> I invited some friends over to watch THE TERMINATOR. When the terminator was walking down from Griffith Observatory in search of clothing, one of my guests shouted out: _"Oh, now the blue dot is on his wee-wee!"_
> 
> I returned the projector.
> 
> For the replacement, I asked the seller to open the box and perform a quality check before sending it to me, and I did the same on my second (current) projector.
> 
> A red dot may not be as bad/ bright as a blue dot, but my advice is to return it.
> 
> $0.02
> 
> PS: Before you return it, could you measure the distance from the very front of the projector to the lens for me? I'm trying to find out how far "in" the lens is from the front!


I can't believe no one else has done this for you yet. I took two paint sticks, and gently got one touching the lens so I could draw a line and measure. Wanted to make sure I didn't damage the lens! It's 1-5/16" from the outside of the casing ring to the lens surface.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

zambine said:


> That's completely untrue about fiber optic HDMI cables my friend. Fiber optic HDMIs have much higher bandwidth potential than traditional cables. You are referring to a fiber optic audio cable that is pretty old tech at this point.
> 
> Point being that a fiber optic HDMI is great for passing audio and [email protected] HDR video. I use a 35 foot Amazon basics brand going from my receiver to my 5050UB and have not had one handshake issue yet. I hope this helps.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk


Is this the cable you are referencing? This would only be an additional $15 per HDMI i order. 



https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Fiber-Optic-Cable/dp/B07X4QHZHF/ref=sr_1_3?crid=37KV9J0N1TGK2&dchild=1&keywords=amazon%2Bbasics%2Bfiber%2Boptic%2Bhdmi%2Bcable&qid=1600971049&sprefix=Amazon%2Bbasics%2BFiber%2Bopt%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-3&th=1


----------



## usace

Cacitems4sale said:


> Is this the cable you are referencing? This would only be an additional $15 per HDMI i order.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Fiber-Optic-Cable/dp/B07X4QHZHF/ref=sr_1_3?crid=37KV9J0N1TGK2&dchild=1&keywords=amazon%2Bbasics%2Bfiber%2Boptic%2Bhdmi%2Bcable&qid=1600971049&sprefix=Amazon%2Bbasics%2BFiber%2Bopt%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-3&th=1


That's the same cable I recently purchased. Works great!


----------



## JonesyG

> It's 1-5/16" from the outside of the casing ring to the lens surface.


Thank you @arnemetis!


----------



## Brajesh

extensioncord said:


> I recently purchased a 5050ub, just noticed that there is a red dot when the screen is dark or switching between color modes. It is in the bottom right quadrant. It is not noticable during regular viewing from a normal seating distance, however if you stand right up at the screen, a dot is visible in that location. I'm wondering whether to just let it go, I'm still within the return policy so could return it, but don't know if it is worth the hassle, and if there's a risk of getting a worse unit in return.


Eek, that looks like a dead pixel issue.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

usace said:


> That's the same cable I recently purchased. Works great!


Thanks! I purchased it and will let you know the results everything is hooked up.


----------



## zambine

Cacitems4sale said:


> Is this the cable you are referencing? This would only be an additional $15 per HDMI i order.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Fiber-Optic-Cable/dp/B07X4QHZHF/ref=sr_1_3?crid=37KV9J0N1TGK2&dchild=1&keywords=amazon%2Bbasics%2Bfiber%2Boptic%2Bhdmi%2Bcable&qid=1600971049&sprefix=Amazon%2Bbasics%2BFiber%2Bopt%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-3&th=1


Yup! It worked great so far for me.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## dmoneyman2323

Just got the projector, upgrading from a four year old JVC RS4910 and i'm having problems with the lens memory function. When switching from my saved 16:9 and 2.35:1 memories i can't get the projector to be even close. If this is a normal thing, this is a deal breaker for me. I don't want to have to keep fiddling with it every time I change back and forth. 

Is this a problem with my specific projector is just normal for the 5050? My RS4910 JVC is pretty accurate and with minor adjustments needed sometimes. The Epson i'm noticing is about 2 or so inches off each time i switch lens memory.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

The same happened to me. Here a video from my first epson 




and here another video after I replaced it


----------



## platinum00

Finally ordered the 5050. Should be here next Friday. 

couple questions.

1. I need to order a screen. Dedicated light controlled room and used 100% for movies. Seating distance is 10 ft. I would like around 100 inch. Thinking white 1.1 gain 2:35:1. not sure on grey or white material or the gain.. any suggestions?

2. Need a mount for a drop ceiling. Was planning on just building some supports the came down to the drop ceiling panel and then just using a normal ceiling mount. What are others with a drop ceiling using?

thanks in advance.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

platinum00 said:


> Finally ordered the 5050. Should be here next Friday.
> 
> couple questions.
> 
> 1. I need to order a screen. Dedicated light controlled room and used 100% for movies. Seating distance is 10 ft. I would like around 100 inch. Thinking white 1.1 gain 2:35:1. not sure on grey or white material or the gain.. any suggestions?
> 
> 2. Need a mount for a drop ceiling. Was planning on just building some supports the came down to the drop ceiling panel and then just using a normal ceiling mount. What are others with a drop ceiling using?
> 
> thanks in advance.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Your room sounds like mine, my home builder did a drop ceiling for my theater room and the video installer told my home builder to install a support for the heavy PJ. The grid would not be able to hold 30lbs. As for my screen, I did a white silver ticket wide screen. It looks great!!, i did paint the entire room with rosco tv black paint and even still it's a hair bright in the room while watching a movie. Maybe some day I'll do velvet.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

dmoneyman2323 said:


> Just got the projector, upgrading from a four year old JVC RS4910 and i'm having problems with the lens memory function. When switching from my saved 16:9 and 2.35:1 memories i can't get the projector to be even close. If this is a normal thing, this is a deal breaker for me. I don't want to have to keep fiddling with it every time I change back and forth.
> 
> Is this a problem with my specific projector is just normal for the 5050? My RS4910 JVC is pretty accurate and with minor adjustments needed sometimes. The Epson i'm noticing is about 2 or so inches off each time i switch lens memory.


I have the same problem. Lense memory is not even close to what i save when loading it.. My lens "wanders" somehow,image sinks 4 inches sometime during use,if i then load the lens memory, it is so misplaced,as if the whole optic system has shifted.. If i manually correct everything again,and re-save the current lens,and immediatly loads it,it somehow reverts to the 4 inches lower default that was the problem to begin with..
I have heard other people experiencing memory problems with the lens also.


----------



## platinum00

thanks for the quick reply.. Yeah, that was my thought on the mounting, something similar to that.

what gain is your screen and what size.. it looks great.


----------



## zambine

platinum00 said:


> Finally ordered the 5050. Should be here next Friday.
> 
> couple questions.
> 
> 1. I need to order a screen. Dedicated light controlled room and used 100% for movies. Seating distance is 10 ft. I would like around 100 inch. Thinking white 1.1 gain 2:35:1. not sure on grey or white material or the gain.. any suggestions?
> 
> 2. Need a mount for a drop ceiling. Was planning on just building some supports the came down to the drop ceiling panel and then just using a normal ceiling mount. What are others with a drop ceiling using?
> 
> thanks in advance.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


A 100" cinema scope screen allows for less than an 80" 16:9 image. Why buy a $2500 projector to throw that size image? If you only have room for a 100" screen go full 16:9. If you can go bigger do it. 

I have a 135" 16:9 screen and my seating distance is 9.5 feet. I love the immersion it gives. Sports and gaming are tremendous.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I have the same problem. Lense memory is not even close to what i save when loading it.. My lens "wanders" somehow,image sinks 4 inches sometime during use,if i then load the lens memory, it is so misplaced,as if the whole optic system has shifted.. If i manually correct everything again,and re-save the current lens,and immediatly loads it,it somehow reverts to the 4 inches lower default that was the problem to begin with..
> I have heard other people experiencing memory problems with the lens also.


Hearing all these lens memory issue, makes me even more thankful that I did a painted screen. My whole wall is painted, so if the memory is off, I'd never notice. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

zambine said:


> A 100" cinema scope screen allows for less than an 80" 16:9 image. Why buy a $2500 projector to throw that size image? If you only have room for a 100" screen go full 16:9. If you can go bigger do it.
> 
> I have a 135" 16:9 screen and my seating distance is 9.5 feet. I love the immersion it gives. Sports and gaming are tremendous.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk


Fair question and maybe I need to go bigger. Here was my thought. Maybe 10% of movies I watch are 16:9 so not to concerned with that. Also, any larger and I need to mess with speaker placement. Either fairly wide stage or behind the screen. Behind the screen is nice but would need to bump out a wall or make some sort of mount i guess to push the screen out enough for the speakers to fit behind. Open to that though if there are ideas.

room is 17x14. Screen on 14.


----------



## scorpiony

biglen said:


> Hearing all these lens memory issue, makes me even more thankful that I did a painted screen. My whole wall is painted, so if the memory is off, I'd never notice.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


In your case there is no reason to use lens memory to begin with. Set your projector zoom for the largest picture to fit your pained wall. 
The idea behind lens memory is designed for wide screen with borders to provide constant height and a “true movie theater enhancement “


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

scorpiony said:


> In your case there is no reason to use lens memory to begin with. Set your projector zoom for the largest picture to fit your pained wall.
> The idea behind lens memory is designed for wide screen with borders to provide constant height and a “true movie theater enhancement “
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not true with my setup. I can go full zoom with Scope, but if I make the 16:9 too big, my front speakers get in the way. Full zoom with 16:9 at my seating distance, is obnoxious anyway. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## JonesyG

> scorpiony said:
> In your case there is no reason to use lens memory to begin with. Set your projector zoom for the largest picture to fit your pained wall.
> The idea behind lens memory is designed for wide screen with borders to provide constant height and a “true movie theater enhancement “
> 
> 
> 
> Not true with my setup. I can go full zoom with Scope, but if I make the 16:9 too big, my front speakers get in the way. Full zoom with 16:9 at my seating distance, is obnoxious anyway.
Click to expand...

Additionally, I would argue that "scope" films should be bigger, not smaller. That's generally* the filmmakers' intention. 

The openings to *The Road Warrior* and *Superman *illustrate this wonderfully, as does the original theatrical version of *Galaxy Quest*, with three different aspect ratios.

* Yeah, most of Nolan's filmography and a few other partial-Imax productions work the opposite way, but those represent a small fraction of the total number of movies.


----------



## zambine

platinum00 said:


> Fair question and maybe I need to go bigger. Here was my thought. Maybe 10% of movies I watch are 16:9 so not to concerned with that. Also, any larger and I need to mess with speaker placement. Either fairly wide stage or behind the screen. Behind the screen is nice but would need to bump out a wall or make some sort of mount i guess to push the screen out enough for the speakers to fit behind. Open to that though if there are ideas.
> 
> room is 17x14. Screen on 14.


Even a 110" 16:9 screen is barely over 9 feet wide. That's plenty of room for speakers on the sides. The best plan for you might be to get your projector first and project an image just on the wall and measure it to see how big you can go. Is there room for speakers underneath the screen?

I started with a 120" and then jumped to 135" because I wanted bigger which cost me some money. I should have done that first.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

JonesyG said:


> Additionally, I would argue that "scope" films should be bigger, not smaller. That's generally* the filmmakers' intention.
> 
> The openings to *The Road Warrior* and *Superman *illustrate this wonderfully, as does the original theatrical version of *Galaxy Quest*, with three different aspect ratios.
> 
> * Yeah, most of Nolan's filmography and a few other partial-Imax productions work the opposite way, but those represent a small fraction of the total number of movies.


I can't even watch a 16:9 movie anymore. If it's not scope, I don't want to watch it. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

My 110" 16:9 screen is 96 inches or 8 ft wide. I'm considering going scope for a new screen, preferably one that will maintain the same 110" diagonal for 16:9 material. I think that works out to be about 10 feet wide.


----------



## dmoneyman2323

vagos1103gr1 said:


> The same happened to me. Here a video from my first epson


Saw your videos, thanks for the help. I will exchange my projector on Amazon and hope for a better unit. Hopefully my next one has good convergence and sharpness as well. But thats the risk you take returning for an exchange. For me the lens memory being misaligned as big as mine was is a deal breaker for sure, but I didn't want to spend $5K on another JVC.


----------



## sddawson

dmoneyman2323 said:


> Just got the projector, upgrading from a four year old JVC RS4910 and i'm having problems with the lens memory function. When switching from my saved 16:9 and 2.35:1 memories i can't get the projector to be even close. If this is a normal thing, this is a deal breaker for me. I don't want to have to keep fiddling with it every time I change back and forth.
> 
> Is this a problem with my specific projector is just normal for the 5050? My RS4910 JVC is pretty accurate and with minor adjustments needed sometimes. The Epson i'm noticing is about 2 or so inches off each time i switch lens memory.





Tsunamijhoe said:


> I have the same problem. Lense memory is not even close to what i save when loading it.. My lens "wanders" somehow,image sinks 4 inches sometime during use,if i then load the lens memory, it is so misplaced,as if the whole optic system has shifted.. If i manually correct everything again,and re-save the current lens,and immediatly loads it,it somehow reverts to the 4 inches lower default that was the problem to begin with..
> I have heard other people experiencing memory problems with the lens also.


I have previously made the following note to myself, gleaned from forums:

Set the lens way off, then creep up to the desired position but always in the same direction, for vertical and horizontal. It is the zig-zagging about the final position that isn't counted precisely by the sensor, and which results in the stored position being off. It would seem that it needs to be done in ten steps or more.

There is also a detailed procedure from Epson here (it’s post 4180 if the link takes you to the wrong post):









Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread


Try these...work like a champ, and the price (shown here for a 2-pack) is half that of the Epson glasses... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWERZN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I think that they are also available as single pairs... I recently ordered 6 of these...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## dmoneyman2323

sddawson said:


> I have previously made the following note to myself, gleaned from forums:
> 
> Set the lens way off, then creep up to the desired position but always in the same direction, for vertical and horizontal. It is the zig-zagging about the final position that isn't counted precisely by the sensor, and which results in the stored position being off. It would seem that it needs to be done in ten steps or more.
> 
> There is also a detailed procedure from Epson here (it’s post 4180 if the link takes you to the wrong post):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread
> 
> 
> Try these...work like a champ, and the price (shown here for a 2-pack) is half that of the Epson glasses... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWERZN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I think that they are also available as single pairs... I recently ordered 6 of these...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Thanks, I had a little more time to play with it tonight and i think I got it all set up pretty good. I saved 1.78:1, 2.35:1, 2.00:1, and 1.85:1 ratios so far. The trick for me which took a lot of playing with was as follows. 

So not sure if everyones is like this or just mine but every time i tried to save a lens memory and recall it, it seemed to be pretty accurate in size but the image was just shifted up/down by a couple inches and possibly left/right by a few inches. So instead of trying to line up my image where i wanted it, i put the image a couple inches out of the screen position and saved it. I would then recall the memory position and see where it moves too. Found its pretty consistent on where the projector wanted to place the image just not where i wanted it to be. Seems with mine i had to shift my image upwards out of the frame and i eventually was able to make it consistently recall where i wanted it. It's not ideal but hopefully it should be a set it and forget it thing.


----------



## sddawson

dmoneyman2323 said:


> Thanks, I had a little more time to play with it tonight and i think I got it all set up pretty good. I saved 1.78:1, 2.35:1, 2.00:1, and 1.85:1 ratios so far. The trick for me which took a lot of playing with was as follows.
> 
> So not sure if everyones is like this or just mine but every time i tried to save a lens memory and recall it, it seemed to be pretty accurate in size but the image was just shifted up/down by a couple inches and possibly left/right by a few inches. So instead of trying to line up my image where i wanted it, i put the image a couple inches out of the screen position and saved it. I would then recall the memory position and see where it moves too. Found its pretty consistent on where the projector wanted to place the image just not where i wanted it to be. Seems with mine i had to shift my image upwards out of the frame and i eventually was able to make it consistently recall where i wanted it. It's not ideal but hopefully it should be a set it and forget it thing.


Glad you found something that worked. It’s certainly something that could be improved with these projectors.


----------



## ameer

After some dust blobs, I serviced my European model EH-TW9400 under warranty, they changed the whole engine with lens itself.

















Note: The 2 pics of dust blobs, one is showing only 1-2 dusts (what I see by my own eyes on dark screen), the other with some long exposure using my phone (1/3 sec - ISO 3000+)

I managed to snap some pics of the full part:








(I attached additional pics from other angles, see zipped file)

Since I'm afraid I'll get dusts down the line after warranty expire; I did something hopefully will make the situation better for me, I put additional filter and planning to just replace the additional filter.
What do you think?


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

ameer said:


> After some dust blobs, I serviced my European model EH-TW9400 under warranty, they changed the whole engine with lens itself.
> View attachment 3040617
> 
> View attachment 3040618
> 
> 
> Note: The 2 pics of dust blobs, one is showing only 1-2 dusts (what I see by my own eyes on dark screen), the other with some long exposure using my phone (1/3 sec - ISO 3000+)
> 
> I managed to snap some pics of the full part:
> View attachment 3040619
> 
> (I attached additional pics from other angles, see zipped file)
> 
> Since I'm afraid I'll get dusts down the line after warranty expire; I did something hopefully will make the situation better for me, I put additional filter and planning to just replace the additional filter.
> What do you think?
> View attachment 3040620
> 
> 
> View attachment 3040621


This doesnt exactly inspire confidence in this projector.. My environment is fairly dusty with dogs being the source,however i have a ceiling aircondition unit with hepa filter that hopefully will alleviate this problem for me..


----------



## John Meno

I finally have my video calibration disc and I want to make everything perfect with my new 6050. I'm having an issue with the lens shift that is different than anything I encountered with my old 5020. The auto lens shift is really cool but the best I can get it the upper left corner is blacked out. All 3 other corners are pedfect. Usually I would be able to adjist the feet and jigger with it to get it perfect but not with this guy. I've never had a situation where one corner was off. I'm starting to worry that there is sonething wrong with the pj itself. Anyone have a similar situation? I'm attaching a pic


----------



## psraj

While I am loving my 5050UB, I am getting annoyed with the fan. I am using Digital Cinema mode, because that looks best for me. But I have to run High Power mode to compensate for the light. And at high power mode, its like a jet engine over my head.


----------



## osufalcon

Finally got my 5050 after Best Buy delayed my store pickup for over a week. Pretty great picture!

I was wondering for some tips on getting better black levels. The “black bars” and FBI warning are more gray than black. I was watching Interstellar last night and again, space was quite gray.

I am using a 120” Elite Screens Spectrum2 which is white. My walls are cream colored, drop ceiling white, and floor white. Are these also a significant detriment to my black levels or are there additional settings I can adjust?


----------



## shift_grind

Can anyone comment on the picture quality difference of this projector comparing a 1080p/60 input vs 4k/60?

I'm curious if a 4K input helps much since they're just 1080p panels up converting to 4K.


----------



## Brajesh

There is a difference. I Just upgraded from a BenQ HT3550 pixel-shifting (with 8.3 million distinctive pixels) to Epson 5050UB (with half that, at 4.15 million pixels). I was worried I'd have to compromise on that 4K sharpness, but I actually find Epson sharper at 'normal' viewing distances when 4K enhancement is engaged. When you're just 3-4ft away from the screen, you can make out SDE/pixel structure on the Epson, but at actual viewing distances (in my case 14.5ft from a 150" 16x9 screen), the perceived sharpness is better. Add Epson's far better brightness, contrast and blacks, then your 4K HDR has that pop BenQ can't quite achieve. BenQ is no slouch, but in comparison, it appears more flat and lacking on that pop I mentioned, and better HDR experience.


----------



## shift_grind

I assume you can turn on 4k enhancement with a 1080p signal? 

What I'm referring to is a 1080p signal with 4k up conversion vs a 4k signal, going to a 1080p panel and up converting back to 4k

Maybe I don't understand how e-shift works but I just assumed it was repeating the exact same 2.1m pixels diagonally for a total of 4.2m. 

My setup is all 1080p now, a 1080p receiver that outputs to a 40es (1080p projector) and a Pioneer Kuro Elite 60" (1080p plasma). Unless I want to constantly be swapping cables I'd have to upgrade everything to 4k and I just don't have any desire to do that. Only the 120" screen could really benefit from it.


----------



## Sekosche

osufalcon said:


> Finally got my 5050 after Best Buy delayed my store pickup for over a week. Pretty great picture!
> 
> I was wondering for some tips on getting better black levels. The “black bars” and FBI warning are more gray than black. I was watching Interstellar last night and again, space was quite gray.
> 
> I am using a 120” Elite Screens Spectrum2 which is white. My walls are cream colored, drop ceiling white, and floor white. Are these also a significant detriment to my black levels or are there additional settings I can adjust?


Yes, that’s a lot of light colored, highly reflective surfaces in your viewing area that will negatively affect the perceived black level and contrast. A good projector can only take you so far; the room needs to be somewhat treated/light controlled as well to reach its full potential.

For room darkening and light control ideas: The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image


----------



## arnemetis

psraj said:


> While I am loving my 5050UB, I am getting annoyed with the fan. I am using Digital Cinema mode, because that looks best for me. But I have to run High Power mode to compensate for the light. And at high power mode, its like a jet engine over my head.


Yeah unfortunately that is well known about this projector. Unless you are putting it in a hush box, I would say pretend high power mode doesn't exist. I notice stuff in digital cinema is dimmer too in my light controlled room, but you get used to it and it looks great on regular. If you can't control the light well I suggest using natural. I use natural for run of the mill tv shows and 1080p or less sdr movies.



osufalcon said:


> Finally got my 5050 after Best Buy delayed my store pickup for over a week. Pretty great picture!
> 
> I was wondering for some tips on getting better black levels. The “black bars” and FBI warning are more gray than black. I was watching Interstellar last night and again, space was quite gray.
> 
> I am using a 120” Elite Screens Spectrum2 which is white. My walls are cream colored, drop ceiling white, and floor white. Are these also a significant detriment to my black levels or are there additional settings I can adjust?


You're going to have a bad time in such a bright room. The deeper blacks can't really be achieved in such settings. There's a video in this thread of someone putting ceiling and wall curtains in place on a track and the screen transforms right away. You can get black drop ceiling tiles from like lowes, and you could try just hanging dark sheets on the walls and put something dark on your floor to test.


----------



## mon2479

I have an issue:

When I stream from my roku, I always experience a loss of picture at some point or sound cuts in and out. Sometimes it's a one time thing, other times, it happens multiple times. Fix is to just unplug th roku and turn my yamaha rxa 3050 off and on. I had bought a RUIPRO cable, but my installer broke the head off because it got caught in the conduit so they gave me a powered cable which according to my info page, I get 59.xxfps. I'm not sure where to start, could it be the cable, could it be the roku which I have hard wired to the internet with speeds of 300 mbps. Strange thing, I've never had issues while watching a disc movie. Any ideas??
Thanks


----------



## biglen

mon2479 said:


> I have an issue:
> 
> When I stream from my roku, I always experience a loss of picture at some point or sound cuts in and out. Sometimes it's a one time thing, other times, it happens multiple times. Fix is to just unplug th roku and turn my yamaha rxa 3050 off and on. I had bought a RUIPRO cable, but my installer broke the head off because it got caught in the conduit so they gave me a powered cable which according to my info page, I get 59.xxfps. I'm not sure where to start, could it be the cable, could it be the roku which I have hard wired to the internet with speeds of 300 mbps. Strange thing, I've never had issues while watching a disc movie. Any ideas??
> Thanks


Sounds like a handshake issue to me. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## xplorar

Is 4k pixel-shifting always "on"? Suppose I want to see a 1080p movie and dont want to engage 4k upscale, is that possible? If yes, what will be resolution on projected image? 1080p? Or 1080p upscaled to 2k?


----------



## biglen

xplorar said:


> Is 4k pixel-shifting always "on"? Suppose I want to see a 1080p movie and dont want to engage 4k upscale, is that possible? If yes, what will be resolution on projected image? 1080p? Or 1080p upscaled to 2k?


Yes, you can disable upscaling on a 1080p movie. Your source will need to be set to 1080p though. If your player is set to output 4k, then 4k enhancement will be grayed out. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## xplorar

biglen said:


> Yes, you can disable upscaling on a 1080p movie. Your source will need to be set to 1080p though. If your player is set to output 4k, then 4k enhancement will be grayed out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Any idea whether 1080p image will be upscaled anyway to 2K (Since its projector's native resolution)?


----------



## noob00224

osufalcon said:


> Finally got my 5050 after Best Buy delayed my store pickup for over a week. Pretty great picture!
> 
> I was wondering for some tips on getting better black levels. The “black bars” and FBI warning are more gray than black. I was watching Interstellar last night and again, space was quite gray.
> 
> I am using a 120” Elite Screens Spectrum2 which is white. My walls are cream colored, drop ceiling white, and floor white. Are these also a significant detriment to my black levels or are there additional settings I can adjust?


First make sure the black and white level are set correctly.
Even so, some titles have an elevated black floor, and what I do is go with the Brightness setting up and down on a dark scene to see where it starts to crush blacks.

There's your problem:



__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1692721894385217



Also try a paint mix, applied either on the wall or a white screen:








Black Flame DIY screen


I recently bought an Epson 5050ub, and decided on a painted screen. After doing my research, it was clear @MississippiMan was the guy to deal with. He asked me about my setup, and he decided I should go with the Black Flame mixture, and it was best to paint the entire wall with the Black Flame...




www.avsforum.com





Or masking panels.



xplorar said:


> Any idea whether 1080p image will be upscaled anyway to 2K (Since its projector's native resolution)?


The 1080p is not upscaled to 2K, it's the 4K enhancer that simulates a higher resolution. If it's 2K, 3K, or else, is a matter of debate IMO. The projector's native resolution is 1080p.


----------



## Luminated67

osufalcon said:


> Finally got my 5050 after Best Buy delayed my store pickup for over a week. Pretty great picture!
> 
> I was wondering for some tips on getting better black levels. The “black bars” and FBI warning are more gray than black. I was watching Interstellar last night and again, space was quite gray.
> 
> I am using a 120” Elite Screens Spectrum2 which is white. My walls are cream colored, drop ceiling white, and floor white. Are these also a significant detriment to my black levels or are there additional settings I can adjust?


I don’t have any pics from Interstellar but I did take one very recently from the S&M 4K test disc which was a very dark night city scene.










I know the blacks are impressive but this is down to how the room is, all walls and ceiling are covered in black velour and a huge black rug in front of the screen which is a 1.2 gain white.

The blacks in this image due to the phone camera is a little blacker than it really is but I can honestly say hand of heart it isn’t hugely different.


----------



## xplorar

noob00224 said:


> The 1080p is not upscaled to 2K, it's the 4K enhancer that simulates a higher resolution. If it's 2K, 3K, or else, is a matter of debate IMO. The projector's native resolution is 1080p.


Thanks for clarifying this! I was under impression that 5050UB has native 2K resolution and uses pixel-shifting to simulate 4K. Looks like its not that at all.


----------



## Luminated67

xplorar said:


> Thanks for clarifying this! I was under impression that 5050UB has native 2K resolution and uses pixel-shifting to simulate 4K. Looks like its not that at all.


From what I understand when the Epson receives a signal that’s 1080p if produces two identical 1080p images and shifts them half a pixel apart but when it’s feed a 4K signal it produces two non-identical 1080p images and shifts them half a pixel so the 4K should look better.

All that it’s really doing is being able to accept a 4K signal but it is really producing a 2K image with a 4K signal.


----------



## shift_grind

osufalcon said:


> Finally got my 5050 after Best Buy delayed my store pickup for over a week. Pretty great picture!
> 
> I was wondering for some tips on getting better black levels. The “black bars” and FBI warning are more gray than black. I was watching Interstellar last night and again, space was quite gray.
> 
> I am using a 120” Elite Screens Spectrum2 which is white. My walls are cream colored, drop ceiling white, and floor white. Are these also a significant detriment to my black levels or are there additional settings I can adjust?


Your best bet is going to be a gray screen. Even gray paint on your screen. I previously had a non light controlled room with white walls, ceiling, light floor. Even at night black performance was pretty meh. Changed from a white screen to a gray screen and the difference was phenomenal.


----------



## platinum00

is grey that much better if you have a light controlled, dark wall/ceiling ?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

platinum00 said:


> is grey that much better if you have a light controlled, dark wall/ceiling ?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


No.


----------



## scar8686

Hi, with my current VPR (Benq w2000+) my projection area is 96". With the 6040UB that area will fall to 92", do you think I will lost black levels performance with 4" of a white screen remaining?


----------



## platinum00

Would the grey screen negatively impact the picture quality in a light controlled room? Sometimes kids watch with lights dimmed instead of off so maybe grey is the better choice.

I haven't purchased screen yet so can go either direction. 



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

platinum00 said:


> Would the grey screen negatively impact the picture quality in a light controlled room? Sometimes kids watch with lights dimmed instead of off so maybe grey is the better choice.
> 
> I haven't purchased screen yet so can go either direction.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


I have just made the switch to a grey screen despite having a fully treated room, I'm assembling the screen tonight and will give my opinions soon after. According to the supplier the colours are unchanged but a slight adjustment on the brightness.


----------



## noob00224

platinum00 said:


> Would the grey screen negatively impact the picture quality in a light controlled room? Sometimes kids watch with lights dimmed instead of off so maybe grey is the better choice.
> 
> I haven't purchased screen yet so can go either direction.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


A matte grey screen (negative gain) will simply dim the image. Better blacks but also dimmer whites. If you want to get back to the same blacks and whites as a white screen the brightness has to be increased. If the screen is 0.7 gain, brightness has to be increased by 30%.
The human eye will notice more changes in dark areas than bright. So you could have an image with deeper blacks while the whites may look similar.

For ambient light the difference will be small. Not worth it IMO. A better alternative is dimming lights, recessed lights, light not hitting the screen directly, etc.
If you really want ambient light viewing get an ALR screen, although dark parts of the image will still be affected by ambient light.

Here is an example with an ALR screen, blockers and ambient light:








Best projector for room w/white walls


The fact that that it didn't respond well to CalMan calibration could have been for a number of reasons. But the fact that this is an RGB LED projector is yet another data point that suggests there may be a difference in quality of light output that hasn't yet been fully vetted. I don't mean...




www.avsforum.com





150" white screen and 1000 lumen projector:


----------



## platinum00

nice.. thanks for the input. the videos help.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## sage11x

asolor78 said:


> Ahh bummer man, understandable. Hope you can get any inportant files back...Stay safe man... 2020 is just an asterisk for everyone in life .. at this point really just waiting for zombies or gemlins.. (cause im sure the aliens are watching us like a soap opera)


Actually it’s brain eating amoeba that you have to watch out for now.


----------



## Zedekias

Luminated67 said:


> I have just made the switch to a grey screen despite having a fully treated room, I'm assembling the screen tonight and will give my opinions soon after. According to the supplier the colours are unchanged but a slight adjustment on the brightness.


Looking forward to your results! 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Zedekias

noob00224 said:


> A matte grey screen (negative gain) will simply dim the image. Better blacks but also dimmer whites. If you want to get back to the same blacks and whites as a white screen the brightness has to be increased. If the screen is 0.7 gain, brightness has to be increased by 30%.
> The human eye will notice more changes in dark areas than bright. So you could have an image with deeper blacks while the whites may look similar.
> 
> For ambient light the difference will be small. Not worth it IMO. A better alternative is dimming lights, recessed lights, light not hitting the screen directly, etc.
> If you really want ambient light viewing get an ALR screen, although dark parts of the image will still be affected by ambient light.
> 
> Here is an example with an ALR screen, blockers and ambient light:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best projector for room w/white walls
> 
> 
> The fact that that it didn't respond well to CalMan calibration could have been for a number of reasons. But the fact that this is an RGB LED projector is yet another data point that suggests there may be a difference in quality of light output that hasn't yet been fully vetted. I don't mean...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 150" white screen and 1000 lumen projector:


That sure doesn't look like it's 150"?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Zedekias said:


> That sure doesn't look like it's 150"?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


If you look at the second video there is a table on the right, gives you an idea.


----------



## Zedekias

noob00224 said:


> If you look at the second video there is a table on the right, gives you an idea.


Ohhh. I only watched the first. My perspective was all wrong. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

platinum00 said:


> Would the grey screen negatively impact the picture quality in a light controlled room? Sometimes kids watch with lights dimmed instead of off so maybe grey is the better choice.
> 
> I haven't purchased screen yet so can go either direction.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


This is a Black Flame Interstellar painted screen that I did. People think it would be black, but it's actually a light to medium gray. I have full control of the lighting in the room, and it can be so dark, you can't see your hand in front of your face. These pics were taken with a little light coming from the adjoining room, because I didn't pull the black velvet curtain shut all the way.























Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Black Flame or Silver Fire is not just a matte grey paint. It can deepen the blacks while keeping the same brightness. Similar to an ALR screen.


----------



## Luminated67

noob00224 said:


> Black Flame or Silver Fire is not just a matte grey paint. It can deepen the blacks while keeping the same brightness. Similar to an ALR screen.


Agreed.

@MississippiMan has built his business traveling all over the world painting screens with his formulas so this is definitely not just matte grey paint. I think if anyone is in doubt they should PM him directly and he will be able to answer any questions WAY better than the rest of us.


----------



## usace

biglen said:


> This is a Black Flame Interstellar painted screen that I did. People think it would be black, but it's actually a light to medium gray. I have full control of the lighting in the room, and it can be so dark, you can't see your hand in front of your face. These pics were taken with a little light coming from the adjoining room, because I didn't pull the black velvet curtain shut all the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Out of curiosity - what source device/service/app are you using? What I mean is, I'm using Hulu Live streaming service from an Nvidia Shield TV, and ESPN (and other channels) is extremely soft (looks more like standard definition). Watching the same broadcast via the ESPN app gives much better PQ, but still not to the level of resolution/sharpness as your images. Plenty of bandwidth from my internet service...Netflix 4K, Youtube 4K videos, Prime 4K, etc all look much better from the same media player.


----------



## biglen

usace said:


> Out of curiosity - what source device/service/app are you using? What I mean is, I'm using Hulu Live streaming service from an Nvidia Shield TV, and ESPN (and other channels) is extremely soft (looks more like standard definition). Watching the same broadcast via the ESPN app gives much better PQ, but still not to the level of resolution/sharpness as your images. Plenty of bandwidth from my internet service...Netflix 4K, Youtube 4K videos, Prime 4K, etc all look much better from the same media player.


Shield TV with the YouTube TV app. The picture is really nice, but I get a much better picture from my HTPC with MadVR when watching BluRay rips. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

I am using this web projector calculator to see how far away my Epson needs to be to be able to get a 2.35:1 128" screen.
With maximum zoom it says "4 m" or "13 ft".


Home Page



Is that from the wall/screen to the front of the projector lens or to the center of the projector?
Is it "bad" to use full zoom?

The reason I ask is because the room ends as I have now and I will have to make a hole in the back wall and install it on the other side.


----------



## rekbones

Pretorian said:


> I am using this web projector calculator to see how far away my Epson needs to be to be able to get a 2.35:1 128" screen.
> With maximum zoom it says "4 m" or "13 ft".
> 
> 
> Home Page
> 
> 
> 
> Is that from the wall/screen to the front of the projector lens or to the center of the projector?
> Is it "bad" to use full zoom?
> 
> The reason I ask is because the room ends as I have now and I will have to make a hole in the back wall and install it on the other side.


Throw is always from the front of the lens. It's not "bad" to use full zoom but it is wise to leave a little bit of room for tolerance/fine adjustment.


----------



## Luminated67

Ok I think I mentioned that I was making the switch to a grey screen despite having a fully treated light reflection bat cave. Well I finally got the planets to align to make that happen and build the screen and get it mounted.

Ricky from Kalibrate Ltd hooked me up with their own screen with their reference grey material, no joke this is a seriously well made screen 80mm border and weighs about 2-3 times my old 100” one. Being scope I had to readjust is sizes for both 21:9 and 16:9, oh and on the subject of 16:9 with give the borders at the sides now these are so dark it’s unreal, Ricky said all I would need do is very minor tweaks to my brightness as colour accuracy will remain unchanged and he’s right, brightness up 2 and nothing else but whilst the colour is unchanged the pop of colour is better.

Here’s a small selection from the movie Bloodshot


----------



## platinum00

looks fantastic but no reference to what it looked like before?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## usace

biglen said:


> Shield TV with the YouTube TV app. The picture is really nice, but I get a much better picture from my HTPC with MadVR when watching BluRay rips.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thank you for that info. Looks so much better than my experience with Hulu Live on the same Nvidia Shield device. I will definitely have to give Youtube TV a look. I agree on the bluray rips...I know a streaming service will never look as good, but there's a lot of room for improvement with my Hulu Live experience. Thanks again!


----------



## biglen

I did have my 5050 professionally calibrated, so that might be why it looks better than your picture. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Luminated67 said:


> Ok I think I mentioned that I was making the switch to a grey screen despite having a fully treated light reflection bat cave. Well I finally got the planets to align to make that happen and build the screen and get it mounted.
> 
> Ricky from Kalibrate Ltd hooked me up with their own screen with their reference grey material, no joke this is a seriously well made screen 80mm border and weighs about 2-3 times my old 100” one. Being scope I had to readjust is sizes for both 21:9 and 16:9, oh and on the subject of 16:9 with give the borders at the sides now these are so dark it’s unreal, Ricky said all I would need do is very minor tweaks to my brightness as colour accuracy will remain unchanged and he’s right, brightness up 2 and nothing else but whilst the colour is unchanged the pop of colour is better.
> 
> Here’s a small selection from the movie Bloodshot
> 
> View attachment 3042233
> 
> View attachment 3042234
> View attachment 3042237


So any difference from the white screen black level wise?


----------



## Luminated67

noob00224 said:


> So any difference from the white screen black level wise?


YES but I wouldn’t be able to ask by how much. I put the S&M 4K disc in again to see how the settings would need changed and all I adjusted was the HDR slider from -12 to -11 and with it being 16:9 the side border are noticeable darker as was the night scenes on the disc.

It’s a £700 expense that brought the Epson that bit closer to the JVC.


----------



## Pablo2k

New to 5050ub.
I was watching some video with no sound, very quite room at night, and I could hear clearly, what I believe to be auto iris.
Am I supposed to be able to hear noises other than the fan coming out of this projector? I don’t remember hearing it with my 3700.
The sound I hear sounds like if I’m trying to adjust the focus.
Thank you.


----------



## dimi123

Luminated67 said:


> Being scope I had to readjust is sizes for both 21:9 and 16:9, oh and on the subject of 16:9 with give the borders at the sides now these are so dark it’s unreal...





Luminated67 said:


> ... and with it being 16:9 the side border are noticeable darker as was the night scenes on the disc.


The side borders are darker because they are not being illuminated by the projector. That is a big plus when using a 2.40:1 screen. No need for border masking.


----------



## Luminated67

dimi123 said:


> The side borders are darker because they are not being illuminated by the projector. That is a big plus when using a 2.40:1 screen. No need for border masking.


I need to head over to the guy near to me that has the X5900 to now get another look at his blacks and compare because I reckon this is now quite a bit closer to the point it might be hard to separate then. Of course his is a white screen and mine now grey but it's had zero negative affect on colours other than making them pop even more, definitely money well spent in my opinion.

The only negative now is that my 16:9 image is a bit smaller because I couldn't make the screen any bigger than 112" but since there isn't that much movie content that's in 16:9 I don't think it will bother me and as for the movies that are dual ratio I will leave it in 21:9 and accept the lose of impact.


----------



## dimi123

Luminated67 said:


> The only negative now is that my 16:9 image is a bit smaller because I couldn't make the screen any bigger than 112" but since there isn't that much movie content that's in 16:9 I don't think it will bother me and as for the movies that are dual ratio I will leave it in 21:9 and accept the lose of impact.


Just move closer to the screen if possible. That's what I'm doing every other year when I think that I need a bigger screen.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> YES but I wouldn’t be able to ask by how much. I put the S&M 4K disc in again to see how the settings would need changed and all I adjusted was the HDR slider from -12 to -11 and with it being 16:9 the side border are noticeable darker as was the night scenes on the disc.
> 
> It’s a £700 expense that brought the Epson that bit closer to the JVC.


That's what I love about my painted gray screen. The black bars just fade away into the screen, so there's no need for masking. Have you considered a painted screen? Then you'd get your bigger size 16:9 image back. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> That's what I love about my painted gray screen. The black bars just fade away into the screen, so there's no need for masking. Have you considered a painted screen? Then you'd get your bigger size 16:9 image back.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My issue has always been the room the home theatre is in, it’s got a sloped ceiling on both sides of the screen so the maximum size I could have was 100” in 16:9 format but since I very seldom use it for anything other than movies I was missing the extra width I could have from a scope screen which was why I took the plunge. I did debate long and hard about painting the existing screen but I would be still in the same dilemma of only 100” and missing the extra width, the new screen is 16” wider.

I couldn’t paint the wall because there’s a door behind the screen that houses most of the AV equipment apart from my two Bluray players.

BTW looking at your images of your painted wall I reckon my screen is the same colour.


----------



## osudrummer

Hi Everyone. I just got my 6050 and am excited but trying to decide which size screen to go with. My room is fully light controlled, entire room is painted SW Peppercorn and measures 15.5’W X 18’D with 9’ ceiling and my projector is mounted about 14’ lens to screen due to angle in the back of the ceiling. I have 2 rows, viewing 11’ and 15’ from screen. I am looking at either 120” or 135” and am concerned about SDE and because 135” is close to the zoom limit but I should be good according to the calculator. I have been looking at it projected on the wall to help and both look okay but with the 1.1 White screen I know it will be clearer. Anyone with similar situation have any input? Am I going to see any SDE from my front 11’ viewing position? Is bigger always better? Thanks!


----------



## sage11x

Luminated67 said:


> Ok I think I mentioned that I was making the switch to a grey screen despite having a fully treated light reflection bat cave. Well I finally got the planets to align to make that happen and build the screen and get it mounted.
> 
> Ricky from Kalibrate Ltd hooked me up with their own screen with their reference grey material, no joke this is a seriously well made screen 80mm border and weighs about 2-3 times my old 100” one. Being scope I had to readjust is sizes for both 21:9 and 16:9, oh and on the subject of 16:9 with give the borders at the sides now these are so dark it’s unreal, Ricky said all I would need do is very minor tweaks to my brightness as colour accuracy will remain unchanged and he’s right, brightness up 2 and nothing else but whilst the colour is unchanged the pop of colour is better.
> 
> Here’s a small selection from the movie Bloodshot
> 
> View attachment 3042233
> 
> View attachment 3042234
> View attachment 3042237


I’d double check your gamma. Even if it seems small, adjusting brightness (and by brightness I mean the black luminance spec) could result in a shallower gamma curve. Should only take a couple of minutes and the Epson I believe has a pretty granular gamma adjustment to correct— whether you target 2.2 or something higher.


----------



## Luminated67

sage11x said:


> I’d double check your gamma. Even if it seems small, adjusting brightness (and by brightness I mean the black luminance spec) could result in a shallower gamma curve. Should only take a couple of minutes and the Epson I believe has a pretty granular gamma adjustment to correct— whether you target 2.2 or something higher.


Be done, not by me but by Ricky. He’s an Epson dealer and tested the screen material on his own Epson against white so told me what I had to do.


----------



## Luminated67

osudrummer said:


> Hi Everyone. I just got my 6050 and am excited but trying to decide which size screen to go with. My room is fully light controlled, entire room is painted SW Peppercorn and measures 15.5’W X 18’D with 9’ ceiling and my projector is mounted about 14’ lens to screen due to angle in the back of the ceiling. I have 2 rows, viewing 11’ and 15’ from screen. I am looking at either 120” or 135” and am concerned about SDE and because 135” is close to the zoom limit but I should be good according to the calculator. I have been looking at it projected on the wall to help and both look okay but with the 1.1 White screen I know it will be clearer. Anyone with similar situation have any input? Am I going to see any SDE from my front 11’ viewing position? Is bigger always better? Thanks!


I’m 9.5ft from a 112” scope screen so I’m actually seating slightly closer than a 135” 16:9 at 11ft, I don’t see SDE and in all honesty you really need to move to about 6ft from a 135” screen to start and notice it, that’s if you aren’t using the e-shift but why wouldn’t you.


----------



## platinum00

got the 5050 today.. it's mounted but can't get a signal from my nvidea shield through the denon 4500. the menus on the denon and the projector work.

I had the shield at 4k/60hz but tried 1080/24 as well and just says no signal. if I swap back to tv it works fine.

tried normal hdmi and fiber hdmi cables.

any thoughts?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## elvinps2626

Hello Guys 

My Brother in Law bought an Epson 5050ub and im trying to help him out to get the best picture possible for his projector. Are there any suggested calibration settings that could help him start in the right direction? I already suggested for him to try of the "Projectorreviews" settings but he still doesn't fill impressed, he told me it it looks a little better than his previous epson 1080p projector that he had for 5 years but not by that much. Im not that experience in projectors, but what i saw weird was that when we tried to play an 4k movie out of Netflix a setting for 4k HDR didn't pop out like a TV does. He is using an Nvidia Shield Pro and the settings are in 4k output.


----------



## biglen

elvinps2626 said:


> Hello Guys
> 
> My Brother in Law bought an Epson 5050ub and im trying to help him out to get the best picture possible for his projector. Are there any suggested calibration settings that could help him start in the right direction? I already suggested for him to try of the "Projectorreviews" settings but he still doesn't fill impressed, he told me it it looks a little better than his previous epson 1080p projector that he had for 5 years but not by that much. Im not that experience in projectors, but what i saw weird was that when we tried to play an 4k movie out of Netflix a setting for 4k HDR didn't pop out like a TV does. He is using an Nvidia Shield Pro and the settings are in 4k output.


There are so many variables with each person's setup. It's impossible to suggest settings for someone. Does he have full light control? Are his walls dark or light colored? Does he have a quality screen? Does he have a quality source feeding the projector? Before I painted my screen, the wall was primed. I put an image on the primed wall, and the picture looked great. I do have dark walls and a pitch black room though. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## elvinps2626

biglen said:


> There are so many variables with each person's setup. It's impossible to suggest settings for someone. Does he have full light control? Are his walls dark or light colored? Does he have a quality screen? Does he have a quality source feeding the projector? Before I painted my screen, the wall was primed. I put an image on the primed wall, and the picture looked great. I do have dark walls and a pitch black room though.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thank you for your quick reply. He bought a 120 in diagonal 16x9 Elite screen his walls are dark gray and he has a light controlled room. Before he had a cheaper Silver Ticket 100 in diagonal screen, it he says that it looks close to this picture but he can defecnetly can tell there is an improvement over his cheaper 500 dol projector that he had with the Silver ticket screen. But when he put a 4k movie from Netflix using an Nvidia Shield Pro as his source he wasn't that blown away. 
Im not a expert in projectors but when i put a 4k movie in my Nvidia Shield Pro using netflix my TV goes to a 4k HDR setting that only comes out when their is 4k content. With his Epson i tried the same thing and no 4k HDR setting came out. I don't know if projectors don't do this or there is something wrong with his settings. But i checked that his Nvidia shield pro is outputting 4k.


----------



## biglen

elvinps2626 said:


> Thank you for your quick reply. He bought a 120 in diagonal 16x9 Elite screen his walls are dark gray and he has a light controlled room. Before he had a cheaper Silver Ticket 100 in diagonal screen, it he says that it looks close to this picture but he can defecnetly can tell there is an improvement over his cheaper 500 dol projector that he had with the Silver ticket screen. But when he put a 4k movie from Netflix using an Nvidia Shield Pro as his source he wasn't that blown away.
> Im not a expert in projectors but when i put a 4k movie in my Nvidia Shield Pro using netflix my TV goes to a 4k HDR setting that only comes out when their is 4k content. With his Epson i tried the same thing and no 4k HDR setting came out. I don't know if projectors don't do this or there is something wrong with his settings. But i checked that his Nvidia shield pro is outputting 4k.


Is he running everything through an A/V receiver? Is he using quality HDMI cables?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## forzabucks

very close to pulling the trigger on either the 6050 or 5050. question for you owners, as most of the content I watch will be streaming 4k from Apple TV/netflix/amazon:

When you watch the pixel shift instead of true 4k, do you notice a difference or does it look as good as watching 4k on a 4k tv? Basically, is the difference between this tech and true 4k minimal/non-existent, or does it feel like the difference between 4k and 1080?

I'll be shooting on a 120" screen sitting 12-14 feet away. Thanks!


----------



## platinum00

platinum00 said:


> got the 5050 today.. it's mounted but can't get a signal from my nvidea shield through the denon 4500. the menus on the denon and the projector work.
> 
> I had the shield at 4k/60hz but tried 1080/24 as well and just says no signal. if I swap back to tv it works fine.
> 
> tried normal hdmi and fiber hdmi cables.
> 
> any thoughts?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


I got it working.. of course it was the HDMI cable. I bought the Amazon one recommend and it doesn't work.

what's the best 25 foot hdmi I can get?



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

platinum00 said:


> I got it working.. of course it was the HDMI cable. I bought the Amazon one recommend and it doesn't work.
> 
> what's the best 25 foot hdmi I can get?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


You don’t need to spend BIG, all you need do is buy an optical HDMI that is it because the all work identically. This is the one I’m using.



https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Fiber-Optic-Optical-Supports/dp/B07L2YGG68/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=fiber+hdmi+cable+25+ft&qid=1601704295&sr=8-7


----------



## platinum00

ok.. I'll try that one . thanks.

I had bought the Amazon basics one below.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X4QHZHF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_zrhEFbBKD124P



maybe just a bad cable but no dice for me.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

well I feel a little dumb but the Amazon cable works fine. I didn't realize it was a one way cable. flipped it and all good.

next problem. there is a horrible hum coming from the projector that makes it to the amps. stops if I unplug the hdmi so definally from projector. 

if I run an extension cord to my surgex at the front of the room, it's a little better but still there.

any ideas for this one.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## bitmap42

platinum00 said:


> well I feel a little dumb but the Amazon cable works fine. I didn't realize it was a one way cable. flipped it and all good.
> 
> next problem. there is a horrible hum coming from the projector that makes it to the amps. stops if I unplug the hdmi so definally from projector.
> 
> if I run an extension cord to my surgex at the front of the room, it's a little better but still there.
> 
> any ideas for this one.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


This is almost definitely a ground loop issue that is just "seen" when the projector is plugged in. 

For my setup I was able to get rid of the hum by putting a ground loop isolator (basically "lifts" the ground) for guitars on the connection between my Denon amplifier and my Behringer amplifier (nx3000d for the subwoofer).

Depending on the pieces in your system and how everything is connected your solution might be different. Just be careful with anyone who suggests using a Cheater plug (takes a 3 prong plug and changes it to 2 prongs) since this will almost definitely work, but it means the case is no longer grounded on your equipment (bad).


----------



## platinum00

It was a ground loop. I had one of the 2 prog adapters laying around that hooked up temporarily just to the projector.

I will look into one of the isolators, any recommendations? 

I used the projector review calibration settings and the picture looks better than my mid grade 4K TV. At least until you turn the lights on 

Thanks for the help.





Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## Horta

Quick question to you all. I have had several Epson projectors in the past and always loved them. For my current dedicated theater that I built 3 years ago, I went with a JVC RS500. I now have the upgrade bug but a limited budget. The Epson 5050ub fits in my budget. The question is has anyone in this group switch from a JVC RS500 to an Epson 5050 or 6050? If yes was the image any brighter and was there any noticeable loss in contrast? 

Thank you in advance
Jerry


----------



## Brajesh

MMoser said:


> I'm not in my theater atm so I can't pull up the exact verbiage, but the Epson command was the power off in Harmony. It took me awhile to discover the cec config was triggering and supossedly holding signals, so I disabled all cec on the Shield. Then added the delay & and extra power off to the Epson and now the 6050 shuts down when I hit the "off" button on the remote.
> 
> I also had to adjust cec on my Marantz avr and pj, so when the avr gets the off command it also sends it to the pj. I think in the Epson cec menu it looks like "source - > pj".
> 
> Hope that helps!


In my case, with Shield TV (2019), my Harmony Elite won't turn on nor turn off Epson 5050UB. This isn't a problem with my other media players (Zidoo Z9S, Vero 4K+). On Shield TV, I've turned off all CEC like so... and for Epson, done for power on, just power on, and for power off, off, 2 second delay, off. Don't know why it won't work... any ideas?


----------



## shift_grind

Luminated67 said:


> YES but I wouldn’t be able to ask by how much. I put the S&M 4K disc in again to see how the settings would need changed and all I adjusted was the HDR slider from -12 to -11 and with it being 16:9 the side border are noticeable darker as was the night scenes on the disc.
> 
> It’s a £700 expense that brought the Epson that bit closer to the JVC.


Good info. I currently have a Sony 40es. A few years ago Monoprice was selling screens with retractable masking panels and I picked one up for sound $900. You just pull the panels down like window shades a d then pull them again and they retract out to make it 16x9 again. 

They were a tremendous improvement in perceived contrast. My room has a black ceiling, black/dark red walls and a medium brown carpet. No windows. About as light controlled as I am willing to get. Money well spent in my opinion.


----------



## MANTI5

Sorry if this has been discussed in this thread but how's the 3d performance on the 5050UB? I'm wanting to get a projector in the near future and it's one I'm considering, I'd be replacing a Mitsubishi WD73742.


----------



## Sorny

Brajesh said:


> In my case, with Shield TV (2019), my Harmony Elite won't turn on nor turn off Epson 5050UB. This isn't a problem with my other media players (Zidoo Z9S, Vero 4K+). On Shield TV, I've turned off all CEC like so... and for Epson, done for power on, just power on, and for power off, off, 2 second delay, off. Don't know why it won't work... any ideas?


Change the settings for the projector to single button press for off and it should work every time. I spent hours and hours trying various delay settings, changing order of what was set to off, etc., and could never get a consistent power-off until I went to single button off on the projector. I think it has something to do with some devices sending a signal to change HDR or SDR on power-off that delays the projector from accepting commands for a while, but all I know is that the single-button power off makes it work every time in my setup.


----------



## platinum00

All of the calibration settings I have found, seem to use high power lamp. Are there any out there calibrated for medium lamp. I feel I could compromise a little for the reduced fan noise.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

Horta said:


> Quick question to you all. I have had several Epson projectors in the past and always loved them. For my current dedicated theater that I built 3 years ago, I went with a JVC RS500. I now have the upgrade bug but a limited budget. The Epson 5050ub fits in my budget. The question is has anyone in this group switch from a JVC RS500 to an Epson 5050 or 6050? If yes was the image any brighter and was there any noticeable loss in contrast?
> 
> Thank you in advance
> Jerry


The only advantage the 5050/6050 might have over the JVC (for movie watching) is the handling of HDR. You will take drastic hit in "native" contrast. It all depends on what you are watching, if Blu Ray invest in a Panasonic ub420/820 for better HDR tone mapping. If streaming not much you can do to improve HDR tone mapping. Get a new lamp for your JVC if brightness is an issue.


----------



## zambine

forzabucks said:


> very close to pulling the trigger on either the 6050 or 5050. question for you owners, as most of the content I watch will be streaming 4k from Apple TV/netflix/amazon:
> 
> When you watch the pixel shift instead of true 4k, do you notice a difference or does it look as good as watching 4k on a 4k tv? Basically, is the difference between this tech and true 4k minimal/non-existent, or does it feel like the difference between 4k and 1080?
> 
> I'll be shooting on a 120" screen sitting 12-14 feet away. Thanks!


I am sitting 9.5 feet away from a 135" screen and can tell no difference in sharpness between the 5050ub and my previous Benq HT5550 DLP and see absolutely no screen door effect. With a 120" that far back you are gold my friend. Just order one sit back in and enjoy the inky blacks. It blows the BENQ out of the water in every way.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk


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## biglen

Sorny said:


> Change the settings for the projector to single button press for off and it should work every time. I spent hours and hours trying various delay settings, changing order of what was set to off, etc., and could never get a consistent power-off until I went to single button off on the projector. I think it has something to do with some devices sending a signal to change HDR or SDR on power-off that delays the projector from accepting commands for a while, but all I know is that the single-button power off makes it work every time in my setup.


When I power off my PS4, then hit Power Off on my Harmony 650, the 5050 never turns off. If I leave the PS4 on, then hit Power Off, the 5050 will turn off. CEC is disabled in every piece of equipment I'm using. For some reason the 5050 won't turn off if the PS4 is off first and a blank screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## luismanrara

It's been 5 years since Epson came up with this new platform in the form of the 5040. is it me or is has taken Epson a while longer to come up with something new and when is it expected?


----------



## rccurr

Still getting to know my Epson 5050ub, but a quick question for those with more experienced than me. In relation to power consumption, I do not notice any great incremental increase in brightness between medium and high and the difference between medium and eco seems negligible. Just wondering if this is normal or am I missing something.


----------



## biglen

Sorny said:


> Change the settings for the projector to single button press for off and it should work every time. I spent hours and hours trying various delay settings, changing order of what was set to off, etc., and could never get a consistent power-off until I went to single button off on the projector. I think it has something to do with some devices sending a signal to change HDR or SDR on power-off that delays the projector from accepting commands for a while, but all I know is that the single-button power off makes it work every time in my setup.


Where is the setting to change single button press for off?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sorny

biglen said:


> Where is the setting to change single button press for off?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Change standby confirmation to N. It's under display settings from the main menu as I recall.


----------



## biglen

Sorny said:


> Change standby confirmation to N. It's under display settings from the main menu as I recall.


Thanks. It's turned off already. I don't know why my 5050 won't turn off when my PS4 is turned off first. Makes no sense. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Tsunamijhoe

What is the best settings for 3D on the 6050ub? Everyone raves about how good this is for 3D but i keep having ghosting depending on depth of the image


----------



## biglen

Tsunamijhoe said:


> What is the best settings for 3D on the 6050ub? Everyone raves about how good this is for 3D but i keep having ghosting depending on depth of the image


Could be the glasses you are using. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## sddawson

biglen said:


> Thanks. It's turned off already. I don't know why my 5050 won't turn off when my PS4 is turned off first. Makes no sense.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


The projector will take no notice of any IR commends while it’s syncing. This includes if you turn a component off. It will go through its normal sync process before it will take another command. So whatever you see as the sync time when, say, changing sources or changing video format, is the delay you have to introduce somehow. Maybe this is your problem?


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## biglen

sddawson said:


> The projector will take no notice of any IR commends while it’s syncing. This includes if you turn a component off. It will go through its normal sync process before it will take another command. So whatever you see as the sync time when, say, changing sources or changing video format, is the delay you have to introduce somehow. Maybe this is your problem?


How can I fix the problem?


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## Tsunamijhoe

biglen said:


> Could be the glasses you are using.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


It is settings. It is exactly the same on 3 different brands of glasses.


----------



## Brajesh

There is light ghosting/crosstalk (at least in my case) no matter what settings. I just came from a BenQ HT3550, which has zero ghosting/crosstalk. But, on the other hand Epson's 3D PQ is brighter, punchier, and given also better black levels, 3D has more depth. I wonder if 5050 units vary like 5040 units did; had awful ghosting/crosstalk w/3 different 5040 units (1 new, 2 refurbs), which is why I had moved to DLP some years back. Took a chance and came back to 3LCD/Epson & have been mostly happy... but, do notice slight ghosting/crosstalk, and it varies by title. Ones w/darker scenes or less-than-ideal 2D-to-3D converted ones fare worse.


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## usace

biglen said:


> How can I fix the problem?


I've been having this same issue, and have tried a few different things w/out luck until seeing the info on the inability of the projector to receive IR commands while syncing (including turning off components). I think I have settings that will now work, and have successfully shut down the projector a couple times properly. I have the power off setting in the projector menu to require just one button push. Then, within the Harmony settings, the power off sequence of the projector I adjusted to essentially just be a long delay (I arbitrarily selected 7 seconds) then a single power off command. To steal the screenshot posted previously, this is what my settings look like now...








Now, when I power off on the Harmony, the source device and receiver power off, which causes a syncing of the projector. The screen goes completely black for a moment or two, and then the projector input is displayed (e.g. HDMI 1) and a message indicating no signal. Then within a second or two the projector receives the off command and shuts off properly.


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## biglen

usace said:


> I've been having this same issue, and have tried a few different things w/out luck until seeing the info on the inability of the projector to receive IR commands while syncing (including turning off components). I think I have settings that will now work, and have successfully shut down the projector a couple times properly. I have the power off setting in the projector menu to require just one button push. Then, within the Harmony settings, the power off sequence of the projector I adjusted to essentially just be a long delay (I arbitrarily selected 7 seconds) then a single power off command. To steal the screenshot posted previously, this is what my settings look like now...
> View attachment 3043510
> 
> Now, when I power off on the Harmony, the source device and receiver power off, which causes a syncing of the projector. The screen goes completely black for a moment or two, and then the projector input is displayed (e.g. HDMI 1) and a message indicating no signal. Then within a second or two the projector receives the off command and shuts off properly.


Does this look right?


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## usace

biglen said:


> Does this look right?
> View attachment 3043530


Actually, I have the projector turning off last in my list of devices. I'm not sure if it would work with it turning off first...even with HDMI control turned off, the projector is still receiving a source signal. I think you want projector last so that it's no longer receiving signals from any other devices. If they're still sending signals and in the process of turning off, then the projector apparently locks itself from receiving IR signals while syncing (which it would be trying to sync to no signal after those turn off). Hence the long delay until after the projector syncs from having a signal to no signal, then a power off command.


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## Brajesh

I'm having the same trouble as @biglen; going to try this method.


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## biglen

usace said:


> Actually, I have the projector turning off last in my list of devices. I'm not sure if it would work with it turning off first...even with HDMI control turned off, the projector is still receiving a source signal. I think you want projector last so that it's no longer receiving signals from any other devices. If they're still sending signals and in the process of turning off, then the projector apparently locks itself from receiving IR signals while syncing (which it would be trying to sync to no signal after those turn off). Hence the long delay until after the projector syncs from having a signal to no signal, then a power off command.


So would I have the Harmony turn off the receiver, pause 7 seconds, then turn off the projector?


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## GZoomer

I doubt I’m the first, but maybe. Just ordered my replacement lamp. I have 3100 hours in eco mode on my lamp. Will wait a bit to change it as the image is not dim yet. Anyone else replaced their lamp yet? I have my iris wide open now. Due to Covid and work from home/ illness, not Covid related, my projector has been on from 6 am in the morning to 11pm most days. If anyone has changed the lamp have you had any problems? Have you cleaned your lense When you changed your lamp?


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

GZoomer said:


> I doubt I’m the first, but maybe. Just ordered my replacement lamp. I have 3100 hours in eco mode on my lamp. Will wait a bit to change it as the image is not dim yet. Anyone else replaced their lamp yet? I have my iris wide open now. Due to Covid and work from home/ illness, not Covid related, my projector has been on from 6 am in the morning to 11pm most days. If anyone has changed the lamp have you had any problems? Have you cleaned your lense When you changed your lamp?


My lamp has 350hrs on it and i just ordered 2,as i like having a small stockpile.. As i am disabled,and my projector is the only screen i have in operation,my projector runs around 12-16hrs a day and i hope lamp life is better than on my old Sony.. If yours have run 3100 hrs and dont show signs of dimming,i am really hopefull this projector will last me a long time..
The Sony i had to change anywhere from 800hrs to maximum 2500hrs even though Sony promised 4000hrs on high lamp/6000hrs on low,i NEVER managed to get past 2000hrs without output was less than 60% of a new lamp,add to that,incessant blinking,which i have not experienced on the Epson.. And the best part, the Epson lamps are 1/3 of the price of the Sony..
I buy mine here LampsAndParts which is also where i bought the Sony lamps


----------



## usace

biglen said:


> So would I have the Harmony turn off the receiver, pause 7 seconds, then turn off the projector?


Yes, and I don't have a PS4, but I assume it gets powered off too?? My power off sequence for my activities is:


Marantz receiver power off command
Nvidia Shield power off command (for my nvidia shield activitiy)
7sec delay
Epson projector power off command

This way the projector senses the loss of signal coming from the components upstream of it as they're powered off, then has time to resync itself (eventually showing a "no signal" message), after which it will then allow IR signals, and the final power off command shuts it down. You may be able to get by with a shorter delay, but 7 seconds was the first thing I tried and it worked.


----------



## elvinps2626

biglen said:


> Is he running everything through an A/V receiver? Is he using quality HDMI cables?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


He is using through a Marantz 7705 preamp and using *Fiber HDMI Cable 4K 25ft 60Hz by Furui Store cables.*


----------



## biglen

usace said:


> Yes, and I don't have a PS4, but I assume it gets powered off too?? My power off sequence for my activities is:
> 
> 
> Marantz receiver power off command
> Nvidia Shield power off command (for my nvidia shield activitiy)
> 7sec delay
> Epson projector power off command
> This way the projector senses the loss of signal coming from the components upstream of it as they're powered off, then has time to resync itself (eventually showing a "no signal" message), after which it will then allow IR signals, and the final power off command shuts it down. You may be able to get by with a shorter delay, but 7 seconds was the first thing I tried and it worked.


I can't get the delay to be in between the receiver and the projector. It won't let me drag the delay down in the sequence. Am I on the right setting screen based on the pic I provided earlier?


----------



## Brajesh

Same with me. Seems you cannot do it at the activity level, only at device level power settings. This may (or may not) help you, but got my power on & off issue resolved. It was the location of the IR blaster connected to the hub. Moved it so it was high enough & pointed (at an angle) toward the PJ, and now with every activity, Epson powers on & off...










And for my Harmony settings, at the device (Epson) level... which applies to all activities...


----------



## Brajesh

Actually this also works if you've already set the Epson's standby confirmation to no...


----------



## martin0711

osudrummer said:


> Hi Everyone. I just got my 6050 and am excited but trying to decide which size screen to go with. My room is fully light controlled, entire room is painted SW Peppercorn and measures 15.5’W X 18’D with 9’ ceiling and my projector is mounted about 14’ lens to screen due to angle in the back of the ceiling. I have 2 rows, viewing 11’ and 15’ from screen. I am looking at either 120” or 135” and am concerned about SDE and because 135” is close to the zoom limit but I should be good according to the calculator. I have been looking at it projected on the wall to help and both look okay but with the 1.1 White screen I know it will be clearer. Anyone with similar situation have any input? Am I going to see any SDE from my front 11’ viewing position? Is bigger always better? Thanks!


My eyes are about 10'-4" from 135" 16x9 screen, and I can notice the SDE when 4k enhancement is turned off. However, once I turn on the 4k image enhancement in the epson, then I do not notice the SDE. As a result, I keep 4k enhancement on all the time.


----------



## shift_grind

Tsunamijhoe said:


> My lamp has 350hrs on it and i just ordered 2,as i like having a small stockpile.. As i am disabled,and my projector is the only screen i have in operation,my projector runs around 12-16hrs a day and i hope lamp life is better than on my old Sony.. If yours have run 3100 hrs and dont show signs of dimming,i am really hopefull this projector will last me a long time..
> The Sony i had to change anywhere from 800hrs to maximum 2500hrs even though Sony promised 4000hrs on high lamp/6000hrs on low,i NEVER managed to get past 2000hrs without output was less than 60% of a new lamp,add to that,incessant blinking,which i have not experienced on the Epson.. And the best part, the Epson lamps are 1/3 of the price of the Sony..
> I buy mine here LampsAndParts which is also where i bought the Sony lamps



Wow. I have about 900 hours on my 40es. At 850 it started flashing so I switched it to high lamp and it stopped flashing until about 890 and came back. Sounds like I'm not the only one.


----------



## sddawson

biglen said:


> How can I fix the problem?


Sorry - bit late to the party here! Try editing the power off sequence for the Epson. First step is a delay, maybe 17 seconds. Then the power off command. I use the single button press power off option. Then, for good measure, stick in another delay, maybe a couple of seconds, then another power off. You can even do this 2 or 3 extra times if you like. I think the only thing it affects is how long it takes the remote control to get back to its home screen, and that doesn’t matter much when you’re powering down.


----------



## xplorar

Brajesh said:


> There is light ghosting/crosstalk (at least in my case) no matter what settings. I just came from a BenQ HT3550, which has zero ghosting/crosstalk. But, on the other hand Epson's 3D PQ is brighter, punchier, and given also better black levels, 3D has more depth. I wonder if 5050 units vary like 5040 units did; had awful ghosting/crosstalk w/3 different 5040 units (1 new, 2 refurbs), which is why I had moved to DLP some years back. Took a chance and came back to 3LCD/Epson & have been mostly happy... but, do notice slight ghosting/crosstalk, and it varies by title. Ones w/darker scenes or less-than-ideal 2D-to-3D converted ones fare worse.


Thanks for the honest observations! One thing I am curious about - The projected image from HT3550 is truly 4k. Right? Do you notice any perceptible resolution difference between 2k image of Epson vs the earlier 4K image of BenQ?


----------



## Luminated67

xplorar said:


> Thanks for the honest observations! One thing I am curious about - The projected image from HT3550 is truly 4k. Right? Do you notice any perceptible resolution difference between 2k image of Epson vs the earlier 4K image of BenQ?


If he does he must be sitting way closer than me, a mate brought his Sony VW360es up to compare in my room and between the Epson and it we both had to move to within 7ft of my 100" screen to start questioning ourselves which was the sharper but by 6ft is was obvious.


----------



## usace

biglen said:


> I can't get the delay to be in between the receiver and the projector. It won't let me drag the delay down in the sequence. Am I on the right setting screen based on the pic I provided earlier?


Brajesh is correct regarding modifying the power off setting at the device level (within the projector settings). So, its power off sequence is what I posted up above...a long delay, then a single power off command. Then at the activity level I have it powering off last. Receiver first, then the main source device, then the projector does it's shut down routine (the delay + power off).


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

shift_grind said:


> Wow. I have about 900 hours on my 40es. At 850 it started flashing so I switched it to high lamp and it stopped flashing until about 890 and came back. Sounds like I'm not the only one.


There is a whole topic about it in the 65es owners thread.


----------



## frny

I'd like to upgrade from my panasonic 900 (and then prob donate it to a museum) but I've been holding for the past few years waiting for epson to upgrade this platform to full 4K. I'm seeing the DLP models go down in price (optoma 50X) but the epsons are holding close to MSRP. So is the 5050UB overpriced at this time? Any chance there is a refresh in sight?

a few more questions for the owners:
I'm in a light controlled room (dark walls), screen is 92" and I'm sitting 11 feet away. 
I'm looking to use the 3D capabilities but am seeing mixed reviews. Is this a gadget with this projector, or can you enjoy the movies and not be distracted by the ghosting/crosstalk?
Is the noise in eco/medium low enough (and would 3D increase the noise?) - my projector is on a stand a couple of feet behind the seating.
I have a 92" graywolf screen - will I need to change it for this projector?

I still like the picture from the 900 (colors), but it's starting to show a red tint on the left and blueish on the right so that can be my excuse to upgrade. 

thnaks for the help


----------



## Brajesh

xplorar said:


> Thanks for the honest observations! One thing I am curious about - The projected image from HT3550 is truly 4k. Right? Do you notice any perceptible resolution difference between 2k image of Epson vs the earlier 4K image of BenQ?


HT3550's image is still pixel-shifted like Epson's, but it's 4K (8.3 million pixels) vs. 2K (4.15 million w/Epson ). Truly 4K to me would be native 4K panels like with JVC NX5/7. In terms of noticing PQ differences, even though Epson has half the shifted pixels, at normal viewing distances (in my case 14.5ft from a 150" 16x9 screen), its PQ appears sharper to me. When you walk close to the screen, say 5-6ft or closer, then BenQ's is sharper and you can start making out Epson's pixel structure. With 4K, as HDR/colors, brightness, contrast and black levels play such a combined critical role that 4K HDR PQ is noticeably better, more satisfying than BenQ's. Latter's looks kinda dull, flat in comparison. But, on its own BenQ is no slouch and does a more than respectable job with 4K & HDR.


----------



## platinum00

3D content question. glasses are paired and source thinks it's 3D, however on the projector under signal is greyed out. I am assuming that means the projector thinks it's not a 3D source?

have Kodi on nvidea shield , through denon 4500h, using optical hdmi to projector.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## Brajesh

nVidia Shield does not support 3D. At least not full framepacked MVC 3D, only side-by-side and top-bottom half-rez formats. If you want 3D using Kodi, you'll need a Vero 4K+ (see my review/thread here) or Zidoo Z9S or the new Z9X (but these players use the Kodi fork ZDMC).


----------



## Brajesh

Brajesh said:


> Actually this also works if you've already set the Epson's standby confirmation to no...


Going to contradict myself and mention a delay is needed unfortunately. So, at the device (Epson 5050UB) level, I tried to add a 5 second delay before the PowerOff command and the Harmony app wouldn't let me. So, the trick I did that worked, was to add a new PowerOff command and insert a delay before it, and delete the original PowerOff. In pictures...


----------



## joms

When i turn off my Epson TW9400 (Epson 5050) by clicking the off button twice in the remote, it takes less than 5 secs for the fan to shut down. Is this correct? I used to have a Panasonic AE 8000 and when i turn that unit off, it takes around 20secs+ before the fan stops for it to properly cool down the unit. 

Am I doing something wrong? I just want to make sure that the unit is being cooled down properly when turning it off.

note: I never remove the plug from the AVR.


----------



## biglen

Brajesh said:


> Going to contradict myself and mention a delay is needed unfortunately. So, at the device (Epson 5050UB) level, I tried to add a 5 second delay before the PowerOff command and the Harmony app wouldn't let me. So, the trick I did that worked, was to add a new PowerOff command and insert a delay before it, and delete the original PowerOff. In pictures...


Where are those settings, in the device, or in the activity?


----------



## Brajesh

Device.


----------



## biglen

Brajesh said:


> Device.


Mine looks different from yours. You have a separate section for power on and power off. Mine are both together?


----------



## platinum00

Brajesh said:


> nVidia Shield does not support 3D. At least not full framepacked MVC 3D, only side-by-side and top-bottom half-rez formats. If you want 3D using Kodi, you'll need a Vero 4K+ (see my review/thread here) or Zidoo Z9S or the new Z9X (but these players use the Kodi fork ZDMC).


of course it doesn't.. boo

more money. haha 

might just get an actual player. haven't had one in years so maybe good opportunity 

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

biglen said:


> Mine looks different from yours. You have a separate section for power on and power off. Mine are both together?
> 
> View attachment 3043957


Before you get to this page, there is a question as to whether the same button powers on and powers off, or if they each have their own button. Choose the latter.


----------



## biglen

sddawson said:


> Before you get to this page, there is a question as to whether the same button powers on and powers off, or if they each have their own button. Choose the latter.


Ah, gotcha. I think I chose one button because I have my 5050 set for one button press. Is that wrong?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Brajesh

It's a one-button press, but still different buttons... one for on, and one for off (which is the Standby button on the original remote).


----------



## biglen

Brajesh said:


> It's a one-button press, but still different buttons... one for on, and one for off (which is the Standby button on the original remote).


So I should choose 2 buttons, leave the power on at the default, and adjust the power off like you have yours?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Unkabin

joms said:


> When i turn off my Epson TW9400 (Epson 5050) by clicking the off button twice in the remote, it takes less than 5 secs for the fan to shut down.


This is normal. Disconcerting at first when coming from another projector, but normal.


----------



## platinum00

platinum00 said:


> of course it doesn't.. boo
> 
> more money. haha
> 
> might just get an actual player. haven't had one in years so maybe good opportunity
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


I found a old blueray player in the basement that supports 3D.. works perfect now.

thanks for the help.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Brajesh

biglen said:


> So I should choose 2 buttons, leave the power on at the default, and adjust the power off like you have yours?


Yes, I'd try that. You may need to adjust the delay if it doesn't work to 7 seconds, but 5 works in my case.

My exact set-up is:
Devices > Epson > Change Device Settings > Power Settings > I want to turn this device off when not in use > I press two different buttons for on and for off, then

For Power On Commands, default power on
For Power Off Commands, (1) 5000ms delay and (2) PowerOff


----------



## usace

biglen said:


> So I should choose 2 buttons, leave the power on at the default, and adjust the power off like you have yours?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


what Harmony means by two different buttons is that... on the original Epson remote there are two different buttons for power on vs power off. I.e. the power on command is a different IR signal than the power off command. Select two different buttons within the Harmony settings. Then leave the power on sequence alone. It's just within the power off sequence that you want the delay for a few seconds, then a single power off command. Remember to change the settings on the projector itself within its own menus to require just a single power off command.


----------



## biglen

usace said:


> what Harmony means by two different buttons is that... on the original Epson remote there are two different buttons for power on vs power off. I.e. the power on command is a different IR signal than the power off command. Select two different buttons within the Harmony settings. Then leave the power on sequence alone. It's just within the power off sequence that you want the delay for a few seconds, then a single power off command. Remember to change the settings on the projector itself within its own menus to require just a single power off command.


Okay, that's how I have it set up now. Hopefully, that fixes my issue. Thanks !

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

biglen said:


> Okay, that's how I have it set up now. Hopefully, that fixes my issue. Thanks !
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I think you’ll be fine now. Depending on the equipment in your chain, and what order things power off in, you might need a much longer delay. And, as I said previously, you can put as many extra delays and power offs in there as you like, just to be sure.


----------



## cogeng182

Hey everyone, I picked up an Epson 5050 a couple weeks ago, still making small adjustments and just learning/enjoying the projector. One problem: my receiver is a Denon X4000 that I really do not want to replace right now, it works great. It will not pass a 4K signal so I am looking for options with an HDMI matrix to bypass the receiver with the video signal straight to the projector while still delivering the audio to the receiver. I need at least 2 HDMI inputs for a roku ultra and a Panny UB420 and at least 2 outputs one for audio to receiver and one for video to the projector. I'm looking for ease of use and something that does not require constant adjustments when going from say, 4K 60hz HDR, to 1080 SDR for example. Any suggestions on what would be best for this situation? Was looking at HDfury Integral2 but i'm not sure that would work or if there are better choices out there.


----------



## sddawson

cogeng182 said:


> Hey everyone, I picked up an Epson 5050 a couple weeks ago, still making small adjustments and just learning/enjoying the projector. One problem: my receiver is a Denon X4000 that I really do not want to replace right now, it works great. It will not pass a 4K signal so I am looking for options with an HDMI matrix to bypass the receiver with the video signal straight to the projector while still delivering the audio to the receiver. I need at least 2 HDMI inputs for a roku ultra and a Panny UB420 and at least 2 outputs one for audio to receiver and one for video to the projector. I'm looking for ease of use and something that does not require constant adjustments when going from say, 4K 60hz HDR, to 1080 SDR for example. Any suggestions on what would be best for this situation? Was looking at HDfury Integral2 but i'm not sure that would work or if there are better choices out there.


One of the HDFury devices will do the trick for sure. Shoot them a message and ask for advice. They have great support. I have a Vertex2, and I’m sure that would do it, but there might be cheaper options. Also, with the right device, like the Vertex2, you can play with the Dolby Vision LLDV “hack” to allow your projector to support Dolby Vision.


----------



## amairphoto

Terrible image I know. But as you can see I have one area middle left that is struggling. It's really noticeable in darker scenes. I have 1375 hours in my lamp. Is that the cause?


----------



## rekbones

amairphoto said:


> Terrible image I know. But as you can see I have one area middle left that is struggling. It's really noticeable in darker scenes. I have 1375 hours in my lamp. Is that the cause?
> 
> 
> View attachment 3044491


Looks like a dust blob to me, its not the lamp. Try adjusting the focus and bring the dust into focus. Run in high lamp, high altitude mode for a bit to see if it blows it out.


----------



## wookiegr

I just got my 5050UB hooked up a couple days ago and noticed that the lens memory goes out of whack after restarting the projector. No one ever mentioned that in the dozens of youtube and web reviews I watched since it's launch. I see there are over 400 pages to this thread and wanted to know if this is a known issue, correctable? I just grabbed firmware 1.03 from Epson's website and will test that this evening. Should fix it right?


----------



## amairphoto

rekbones said:


> Looks like a dust blob to me, its not the lamp. Try adjusting the focus and bring the dust into focus. Run in high lamp, high altitude mode for a bit to see if it blows it out.


Ah awesome. Good to know. Thank you!


----------



## LowellG

Hello, I am the new owner of a 6050. I am very impressed with it coming from an 8 year old Panasonic AE7000U. However it is extremely slow whenever I switch inputs, or start any movie, in Netflix, Prime, Disney plus and especially Plex. Each movie starts with sound and it takes at list 10 seconds for video to show up. The files are all MKVs ripped bit for bit. So straight 1080 or 4K it does the same thing. Same with any Disney or Netflix movies or shows. I mainly use a first Gen Nvidia Shield TV. I never had this problem with the Panasonic. It even happens with XBOX 1X when exiting a game. I can also hear it switching inside. My receiver is a Denon X4300. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## bluer101

wookiegr said:


> I just got my 5050UB hooked up a couple days ago and noticed that the lens memory goes out of whack after restarting the projector. No one ever mentioned that in the dozens of youtube and web reviews I watched since it's launch. I see there are over 400 pages to this thread and wanted to know if this is a known issue, correctable? I just grabbed firmware 1.03 from Epson's website and will test that this evening. Should fix it right?


Check this post out.

Official Epson 5040ub/6040ub owners thread


----------



## bullfrog23414

I feel like I've seen a similar question asked several times in both this thread and the 5040/6040 thread, but I don't see where a solution was ever offered. Situation: AppleTV4K (or Shield or whatever) playing 3D content (top/bottom or side/side) but the PJ doesn't recognize it as a 3D signal and the 3D options are greyed out. Has anyone discovered a solution/workaround to force the projector into 3D mode? I've never been a big 3D guy, but I'd like to try it out at least.


----------



## Brajesh

Which app are you using to play your SBS/TAB files? If MrMC (Kodi fork) on ATV or Kodi itself on Shield, then the settings in the app & filenames should trigger 3D. This guide covers some of it, or this.


----------



## xplorar

@Brajesh Is it possible to render full HD 3D TAB files (3840X1080) as frame-packed 3D (1920X1080) without any resolution loss by Shield?


----------



## bullfrog23414

Brajesh said:


> Which app are you using to play your SBS/TAB files? If MrMC (Kodi fork) on ATV or Kodi itself on Shield, then the settings in the app & filenames should trigger 3D. This guide covers some of it, or this.


I'm using Plex. However, I figured out the issue. I had my Apple TV set to 4k SDR with matching range/frame rate enabled, but that still upscales 1080p to 4K. The 4K signal coming from the ATV is what greyed out the 3D menu. So now I know that in order to access the 3D menu on the PJ to force it into 3D mode, you have to first change the video mode in the ATV settings to 1080P and then everything worked flawlessly (though it still didn't work on "Auto" mode, I had to actually say that the signal was 3D Top/Bottom).


----------



## HTX^2steve

frny said:


> I'd like to upgrade from my panasonic 900 (and then prob donate it to a museum) but I've been holding for the past few years waiting for epson to upgrade this platform to full 4K. I'm seeing the DLP models go down in price (optoma 50X) but the epsons are holding close to MSRP. So is the 5050UB overpriced at this time? Any chance there is a refresh in sight?
> 
> a few more questions for the owners:
> I'm in a light controlled room (dark walls), screen is 92" and I'm sitting 11 feet away.
> I'm looking to use the 3D capabilities but am seeing mixed reviews. Is this a gadget with this projector, or can you enjoy the movies and not be distracted by the ghosting/crosstalk?
> Is the noise in eco/medium low enough (and would 3D increase the noise?) - my projector is on a stand a couple of feet behind the seating.
> I have a 92" graywolf screen - will I need to change it for this projector?
> 
> I still like the picture from the 900 (colors), but it's starting to show a red tint on the left and blueish on the right so that can be my excuse to upgrade.
> 
> thnaks for the help


Wow...I thought I was the only one still running the Panny 900 until just last year when I upgraded to the 5050. I put my perfectly working 900 never had an issue PJ and retired it when I thought the time was right to upgrade and give my eyes a treat they have been missing over the years. So happy I did...light years ahead with the 5050 so loving this PJ. I also (thinking you are my twin) had a 92 inch screen before I bumped it up to 120" with the 5050. I also was like you thinking wait..wait...wait...wait..wait until what?! You and I having extreme patience being 900 owners waited long enough! The 5050 for the price point/features/pic quality is awesome! My 900 now is my future apocalyptic backup projector if there is a future but currently supporting a stack of 4k movies on it resting until the day needing to be called back into service!


----------



## Brajesh

xplorar said:


> @Brajesh Is it possible to render full HD 3D TAB files (3840X1080) as frame-packed 3D (1920X1080) without any resolution loss by Shield?


Good question, don't know. A few media players and HTPC's can render full SBS I believe, but worth a try if you already have full TAB 3D files. My guess would be it won't work.


----------



## henkeli

amairphoto said:


> Terrible image I know. But as you can see I have one area middle left that is struggling. It's really noticeable in darker scenes. I have 1375 hours in my lamp. Is that the cause?
> 
> 
> View attachment 3044491


That is dust.
If it does not impact the picture while watching content, then I would ignore it.
If you really want to fix it, then look up some YT videos on how to disassemble the top cover, the top control board, and RGB ribbons. 
Warning: it takes hours to do this fully and you have to be very careful with the RGB ribbons. 
But, once you can see the LCD panels, then use a handheld squeeze puffer like the ones that are used to clean camera sensors.
Puff air down into the LCD panel chambers for a bit and then reassemble everything back up.
Dust blob should be removed.
This worked for me on my 2150 but as I said, it was a detailed process and I'm very comfortable with this stuff.

Just wait until you start to notice dead/stuck pixels... no fix for that I'm afraid.


----------



## Sekosche

I’ve seen several posters recently complain about the lengthy time it takes to sync between switching sources on various devices, and I thought I’d share my experience.

I actually had this issue at the beginning of the year with the 5050 when purchased, which was a good 10 second video lag/black screen after switching or initiating content, but after loading the latest firmware 1.03 this has entirely gone away. With my setup it only takes a couple seconds between content changes to lock on to the signal now, so I’m not sure if it was initial handshake issues or something else...but all is well now!

This was all with a Panny 420, Sony UBP-X800, Denon x4200, PS4 Pro, Roku Ultra, and a few other components.


----------



## elvinps2626

Hello Guys 

Hope these might help someone on the same boat as my brother in law was. As i stated before he is using an Nvidia Shield Pro as his source for streaming movies and youtube videos , uses a Marantz 7705AV for preamp and a 120 in diagonal 16x9 screen, and the Epson 5050ub for his projector. When tried to calibrate using brightness and contrast patterns and 1080p content looked good, but 4k HDR for some reason didn't looked that good. So i asked here if some could help me out. But i found the reason why the 4k HDR image didn't looked that impressive. After trying out some 4k HDR videos from youtube using the Nvidia Shield Pro no setting turned to HDR as it does a TV so that was my first warning that something was not correct. After reading the manual you can find out if you are receiving 4k HDR signal if you go to menu in the projector and go to "Signal" it was saying 3840 X "forgot the other number" ( i think that is the correct number) and BT.709 SDR. So i looked on google and the Nvidia Shield Pro for some reason doesn't support HDR from Youtube for some reason. So we upgrade the projector using a USB drive and watched a movie from Netflix in 4k HDR and it looked way better. Now knowing the Nvidia shield can't show HDR from Youtube we tried a 4k video and pressed the HDR in there Projectors remote control and used the slider of HDR and set it to 1 and it looked WAY better than before. The Image pops more and it looks amazing. So what he does now when he is watching music videos from Youtube he changes the Dynamic range (by pressing the HDR button in the projector remote) from AUTO to HDR 10 and he plays with the slider from 1-3. But when he is watching Netflix in the Nvidia Shield Pro it does show HDR correctly so he changes the Dynamic Range back too AUTO. Hope this helps someone.


----------



## GZoomer

replacement lamp. i have 3200 hours on my lamp and have a new lamp on order. Anything to look out for when I replace the lamp? I expect to replace some where between 3500 and 4000 Hours. Covid has really increased the hours i use the projector.


----------



## LowellG

LowellG said:


> Hello, I am the new owner of a 6050. I am very impressed with it coming from an 8 year old Panasonic AE7000U. However it is extremely slow whenever I switch inputs, or start any movie, in Netflix, Prime, Disney plus and especially Plex. Each movie starts with sound and it takes at list 10 seconds for video to show up. The files are all MKVs ripped bit for bit. So straight 1080 or 4K it does the same thing. Same with any Disney or Netflix movies or shows. I mainly use a first Gen Nvidia Shield TV. I never had this problem with the Panasonic. It even happens with XBOX 1X when exiting a game. I can also hear it switching inside. My receiver is a Denon X4300. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.


It doesn't look like anybody has a solution for this, but can anybody let me know if they have the same problem. Mainly a delay in starting stopping movies in Plex, Also, just exiting a game on XBox. I don't mean changing inputs, I am just talking quitting a game and waiting for the XBox menu to come back up. It's not a couple seconds, it's around 10 seconds. Thanks.


----------



## biglen

LowellG said:


> Hello, I am the new owner of a 6050. I am very impressed with it coming from an 8 year old Panasonic AE7000U. However it is extremely slow whenever I switch inputs, or start any movie, in Netflix, Prime, Disney plus and especially Plex. Each movie starts with sound and it takes at list 10 seconds for video to show up. The files are all MKVs ripped bit for bit. So straight 1080 or 4K it does the same thing. Same with any Disney or Netflix movies or shows. I mainly use a first Gen Nvidia Shield TV. I never had this problem with the Panasonic. It even happens with XBOX 1X when exiting a game. I can also hear it switching inside. My receiver is a Denon X4300. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.


Sounds like the refresh rate is switching, especially since you say you can hear something switching. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## xplorar

Brajesh said:


> Good question, don't know. A few media players and HTPC's can render full SBS I believe, but worth a try if you already have full TAB 3D files. My guess would be it won't work.


Its possible in my Popcorn Hour media players.


----------



## Q8472

cogeng182 said:


> Hey everyone, I picked up an Epson 5050 a couple weeks ago, still making small adjustments and just learning/enjoying the projector. One problem: my receiver is a Denon X4000 that I really do not want to replace right now, it works great. It will not pass a 4K signal so I am looking for options with an HDMI matrix to bypass the receiver with the video signal straight to the projector while still delivering the audio to the receiver. I need at least 2 HDMI inputs for a roku ultra and a Panny UB420 and at least 2 outputs one for audio to receiver and one for video to the projector. I'm looking for ease of use and something that does not require constant adjustments when going from say, 4K 60hz HDR, to 1080 SDR for example. Any suggestions on what would be best for this situation? Was looking at HDfury Integral2 but i'm not sure that would work or if there are better choices out there.


I own a Denon X4000 as well and specs say it should pass the 4K signal. 
Are you sure there are no issues with the Denon?
Very interested in your response as I need to replace my PJ and am VERY interested in purchasing the TW9400 (EU version of the 6050).


----------



## JonfromCB

5050/60 owners using HD Fury units please talk to me about what they can do for me. I understand the basic HDMI switching and being able to avoid the AVR passthrough/video processor card but beyond that I don't understand the differences between the three HD Fury "central units" at all.

My system is simple....main use is cable TV (1080), next is Amazon Prime via ROKU, input/though Denon AVR via 40ft fiber optic HDMI to my 5050.

Am I correct to think these products can/will help with my HDMI switching/dropout issues?
Am I correct that it can upscale a 1080hd signal to 4k? Would I get a better audio signal using an HD Fury/toslink out compared to my AVR extracting audio from HDMI input sources? Are there other benefits or problems to be avoided? Thanks for whatever you can share about the HD Fury units.


----------



## rollon1980

Firmware 1.04 available in Australia for a few days now. Anyone tried it yet? I might give it a go and report back!


----------



## LowellG

Q8472 said:


> I own a Denon X4000 as well and specs say it should pass the 4K signal.
> Are you sure there are no issues with the Denon?
> Very interested in your response as I need to replace my PJ and am VERY interested in purchasing the TW9400 (EU version of the 6050).


Hello, I just upgraded from a Panasonic AE7000U to the 6050 with a Denon X4300. I am not sure if I have an issue or not. There is just a 8-10 second delay when I start and stop a movie in Plex or stop a game on my Xbox. Other than that, the color and picture is just amazing. I am very happy with the projector, just not sure why I have the delay I never had with the Panasonic. It even does it with 1080P sources. I have tried Nvidia Shield, first gen from 2015, Apple TV 4K, Fire Stick 4K and Xbox 1X. It even delays starting movies with Disney + on the Shield. I have asked if anyone else is having the same problem here, but no reply. It does see the difference between 1080 and 4K with Plex movies when I use the info button on the projector. So unlike the other guy asking the question about a Denon 4000, I am 99% sure mine is passing the signal.


----------



## rollon1980

rollon1980 said:


> Firmware 1.04 available in Australia for a few days now. Anyone tried it yet? I might give it a go and report back!


Had a very quick look...

the dynamic iris in Dynamic picture mode seems a bit better
maybe slight tweaks to tone mapping

Nothing other of note but it was only a quick look.


----------



## Bandyka

rollon1980 said:


> Had a very quick look...
> 
> the dynamic iris in Dynamic picture mode seems a bit better
> maybe slight tweaks to tone mapping
> Nothing other of note but it was only a quick look.


Thanks for the update.


*the dynamic iris in Dynamic picture mode seems a bit better*
in what way?


----------



## rollon1980

Bandyka said:


> Thanks for the update.
> 
> 
> *the dynamic iris in Dynamic picture mode seems a bit better*
> in what way?


I may be imagining it but seems to recover a hair quicker after fade to black. I did send this issue to them an email amongst the list of issues for the last firmware. I use Dynamic for HDR and it was pretty crazy aggressive with the last firmware.


----------



## Bandyka

i'll be testing a bit later but yes it seems to be a little speedier I checked quickly.


----------



## mon2479

I have been trying to figure out an issue with my roku plus and oppo 203 for some time now which I feel is a loss cause. I really want to take advantage of the video processing of the oppo, but at this point it doesnt seem possible. I have my roku connected to my Yamaha which gives me HDR and my oppo as well when I watch a 4k blu ray movie. I have a BINARY 35ft active cable which is powered via usb wall plug adapter. Its capable of 4:4:4, 18g, and 60fps according to their site. Whenever I plug in the roku to the oppo, i can never get HDR sent back to the PJ. The signal is HDR going in, but SDR going out. I changed all sorts of settings on the oppo and redid the connectivity test on the roku while not using the yamaha. Is there something I can change on the epson hdmi input 2? That's the only thing I haven't tried. One interesting thing is when I run the display test with roku connected to the Yamaha, I only am able to select 4k HDR 30fps, yet I get HDR at 59.94 4:4:4 while watching Netflix. If I connect the roku into the oppo, I can select 4k HDR 60fps, but I can't get HDR, only SDR sent to the epson. It's weird and frustrating to me. I may just give up and not use my oppo since I do get HDR via my Yamaha. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## HTX^2steve

wookiegr said:


> I just got my 5050UB hooked up a couple days ago and noticed that the lens memory goes out of whack after restarting the projector. No one ever mentioned that in the dozens of youtube and web reviews I watched since it's launch. I see there are over 400 pages to this thread and wanted to know if this is a known issue, correctable? I just grabbed firmware 1.03 from Epson's website and will test that this evening. Should fix it right?


When you do a search within this group thread you will find lots of replies with regards to this lens memory issue. I personally posted about them but apparently Epson doesn't care about it so you will need to find your own work around that works for you as this is not corrected in the latest firmware nor does the crazy steps to do to have it some what work.


----------



## plain fan

@mon2479, I would search the thread dedicated for the Oppo and then post if the search results prove negative. You may not get a specific answer in this thread since it is dedicated to the Epson projectors where your problem may be an Oppo specific issue that others have experienced.


----------



## Bandyka

Mine has a faulty color filter it seem, when in place (I don't think it does pop in place properly however I hear the noise) colors do have similar coverage as Rec709 except inaccurate. I calibrated it to full DCI-P3 however it meant I had to push the colors way out of the usual context hence resulting a wide yet inaccurate BT2020, Just wondering if this has come up and was there a solution instead of sending it in for repair?


----------



## mon2479

plain fan said:


> @mon2479, I would search the thread dedicated for the Oppo and then post if the search results prove negative. You may not get a specific answer in this thread since it is dedicated to the Epson projectors where your problem may be an Oppo specific issue that others have experienced.


I already did and nothing worked, I was told that maybe there is something I can toggle in the inputs from the epson.


----------



## jbnpaul

LowellG said:


> Hello, I just upgraded from a Panasonic AE7000U to the 6050 with a Denon X4300. I am not sure if I have an issue or not. There is just a 8-10 second delay when I start and stop a movie in Plex or stop a game on my Xbox. Other than that, the color and picture is just amazing. I am very happy with the projector, just not sure why I have the delay I never had with the Panasonic. It even does it with 1080P sources. I have tried Nvidia Shield, first gen from 2015, Apple TV 4K, Fire Stick 4K and Xbox 1X. It even delays starting movies with Disney + on the Shield. I have asked if anyone else is having the same problem here, but no reply. It does see the difference between 1080 and 4K with Plex movies when I use the info button on the projector. So unlike the other guy asking the question about a Denon 4000, I am 99% sure mine is passing the signal.


If the incoming signal changes ( resolution, dynamic range, color space, frame rate) ... my screen will go black few seconds as well. This has been the behavior on every device I have ( on my tv other projector I have used)

This Epson probably takes a little longer than my TV. 

Not sure if this is what you are experiencing ... but if this annoys you in Apple TV 4K try turning off both frame rate and range matching under video settings and see the delay disappears.

If the above fixes your problem ... well then it is caused by input change.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## veekay

Finally moving into a 5050 from my 8350 model - hurray for modern tech.

I last replaced my HDMI cable a few years ago and it was then advertised as working at 18gbps speed, but is there a way to test that I am getting the correct speed/rates with the new PJ? If I try and watch something that runs at 4K 60, will it either display or just not show anything or will it not be that simple?

I don't actually do any 4K content and mainly game, which will still be at 1080, but just want to make sure everything works correctly from the start.

Thanks!

Well, it seems my receiver cannot pass HDR so it is a moot point. Might just go back to the 8350 and sell this.


----------



## arnemetis

JonfromCB said:


> 5050/60 owners using HD Fury units please talk to me about what they can do for me. I understand the basic HDMI switching and being able to avoid the AVR passthrough/video processor card but beyond that I don't understand the differences between the three HD Fury "central units" at all.
> 
> My system is simple....main use is cable TV (1080), next is Amazon Prime via ROKU, input/though Denon AVR via 40ft fiber optic HDMI to my 5050.
> 
> Am I correct to think these products can/will help with my HDMI switching/dropout issues?
> Am I correct that it can upscale a 1080hd signal to 4k? Would I get a better audio signal using an HD Fury/toslink out compared to my AVR extracting audio from HDMI input sources? Are there other benefits or problems to be avoided? Thanks for whatever you can share about the HD Fury units.


I personally picked up an HDFury AVR Key because it was the cheapest option to resolve my problem. My receiver is a Denon X2100w, which supports 4k but not HDR. I was otherwise happy with my receiver, so I looked into a way to split the audio from the video feed, and this fit the bill. My only 4k source is my nvidia shield, so I ran a 3' hdmi cable to the AVR Key, another 3' one to the to the wall plate, and a 25' one from the wall plate up to the projector. For reference these are the cables I used Amazon.com: Cable Matters Premium Certified HDMI to HDMI Cable (Premium HDMI Cable) with 4K HDR Support in Black - 25 Feet: Home Audio & Theater 

As I didn't get a model of HDFury with multiple inputs, I cannot speak to the switching capabilities. The way I have mine set up is simply all pass through, there's no upconverting going on with mine. The only upconverting I have going on is with the shield and projector, between those two we end up with a 4k image to the screen and enhancements as appropriate. I've never experienced a dropout or connection issue with this setup. I have also done a test hooking my gaming laptop up to the 3' cable instead of the shield, and it managed 60hz 4k output for about a half hour while I messed with game settings and ran a mission in Warframe. I will say that my other cables, which are all 6' or higher and nothing special, would NOT work with the laptop, so you do need better than run of the mill here (also consider I'm really running 31' here between all the cables.)


----------



## Unkabin

HTX^2steve said:


> When you do a search within this group thread you will find lots of replies with regards to this lens memory issue. I personally posted about them but apparently Epson doesn't care about it so you will need to find your own work around that works for you as this is not corrected in the latest firmware nor does the crazy steps to do to have it some what work.


Just for context, mine is exact, works every time, and I switch a lot between two settings that cause drastic change in zoom and shift in both directions. Quality control issues with the motor?


----------



## JonfromCB

JonfromCB said:


> I'm a patient and understanding guy too and I appreciate your encouragement. I believe they will come through, and also believe 5050 community deserves to know that a 5050 with 265 hours took a dump and their customer service gave me incorrect information and then appears to have no mechanism to catch their mistake, and communicate with me about it.
> 
> It is what it is and I'll follow up with this community. Most probably don't care, but it might be useful to someone.


The above post was informational for the 5050 community regarding my 1st 5050 taking a dump with less than 300 hours and how Epson was receptive and professional, but the communication and replacement process/communication was not as presented. I opted for the 2day replacement that required a credit card hold and was not told a replacement unit was not in stock and when it was shipped, the two day shipping took 6 days....but the replacement was eventually received.

Now, with less than 110 hours the second unit has failed. The 4k enhancement has stopped working and regardless of the source and resolution of the source signal the picture looks like it's 780 at best. Once again Epson customer service was professional, thorough, and within 15 minutes of troubleshooting told me they would replace the unit. That's all well and good and appreciated. I just want the community to know at least one customer has had two 5050's that required replacement in less than 4 months. I sure hope the third time's a charm and I get a unit that operates properly for a reasonable length of time. On a positive note Epson was receptive of my constructive feedback on the last replacement and is "overnight" shipping the 2nd replacement and I've really got the troubleshooting/replacement process down-pat and should now qualify as a certified installer .lol


----------



## Luminated67

^You must be one of the most unluckiest guys around.


----------



## biglen

JonfromCB said:


> The above post was informational for the 5050 community regarding my 1st 5050 taking a dump with less than 300 hours and how Epson was receptive and professional, but the communication and replacement process/communication was not as presented. I opted for the 2day replacement that required a credit card hold and was not told a replacement unit was not in stock and when it was shipped, the two day shipping took 6 days....but the replacement was eventually received.
> 
> Now, with less than 110 hours the second unit has failed. The 4k enhancement has stopped working and regardless of the source and resolution of the source signal the picture looks like it's 780 at best. Once again Epson customer service was professional, thorough, and within 15 minutes of troubleshooting told me they would replace the unit. That's all well and good and appreciated. I just want the community to know at least one customer has had two 5050's that required replacement in less than 4 months. I sure hope the third time's a charm and I get a unit that operates properly for a reasonable length of time. On a positive note Epson was receptive of my constructive feedback on the last replacement and is "overnight" shipping the 2nd replacement and I've really got the troubleshooting/replacement process down-pat and should now qualify as a certified installer .lol


I would have really tried making them send a 6050 for your troubles. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## JonfromCB

biglen said:


> I would have really tried making them send a 6050 for your troubles.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That crossed my mind but isn't as important as getting the product I paid for that works reliably as advertised. Before calling them I spent several man-days over the last couple of weeks checking for voltage fluctuations and proper grounding, checking all HT system wiring, insuring proper HDMI performance on long run(50ft) and all source HDMI jumpers, as well as connecting a second AVR for comparison.. I had my cable tv signals checked to include changing my cable box to insure the problem was not caused by any other HT components. You can bet that IF there is a third 5050 failure I won't be asking for a 6050, or any Epson product, I'll be demanding a full MSRP refund. Three previous Panasonic PJ's all worked flawlessly for over 5 years each. Two Epson product failures in less than 4 months for entirely different issues is something I feel the community should know about so folks can formulate their own conclusions.


----------



## HTX^2steve

Unkabin said:


> Just for context, mine is exact, works every time, and I switch a lot between two settings that cause drastic change in zoom and shift in both directions. Quality control issues with the motor?


I guess we will never know. When I reached out to Epson their front line gave me some crazy steps to follow that didn't work. So I just now have to manually adjust it.


----------



## fredworld

Unkabin said:


> Just for context, mine is exact, works every time, and I switch a lot between two settings that cause drastic change in zoom and shift in both directions. Quality control issues with the motor?


Same here. The past few weeks I've been flirting with changing to a 2.35 screen and have been experimenting with 4 different Lens settings for different height and width (72"x40", 94"x40", 67"x38" and 88"x38"). The Lens Memory has never missed its mark. I think the "trick" is to adjust in the direction of the zoom/shift. If you overshoot, then bring it back some and slowly step it forward to where it should be, then save. Perhaps the larger the screen the more any deviation is noticeable. Some on these forums think an 82" diagonal is "small" (without reprimand) so, perhaps my smallish dimensions are my greatest strengths.🎬


----------



## JonfromCB

Luminated67 said:


> ^You must be one of the most unluckiest guys around.


lol, not by a stretch.


----------



## Zedekias

Has anyone switched out their 5050 power cord for a shorter one? I had an outlet installed on the ceiling when finishing my basement and want it to look nice and tidy. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

As for the new firmware it seems to me that Auto iris "normal" works much quicker now. I though it was pretty useless otherwise.


----------



## fredworld

Zedekias said:


> Has anyone switched out their 5050 power cord for a shorter one? I had an outlet installed on the ceiling when finishing my basement and want it to look nice and tidy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Yes. Purely for cosmetric reasons, I replaced it with a Pangea AC14 .6 meter power cable. I thought nothing of it until later in the evening when I was watching a movie and felt that the image was looking better. Although I did not do a visual A/B comparison and have no measuring equipment, my overall sense was that the image has more "pop."


----------



## Zedekias

fredworld said:


> Yes. Purely for cosmetric reasons, I replaced it with a Pangea AC14 .6 meter power cable. I thought nothing of it until later in the evening when I was watching a movie and felt that the image was looking better. Although I did not do a visual A/B comparison and have no measuring equipment, my overall sense was that the image has more "pop."
> View attachment 3046188


Awesome. Thank you! 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## xplorar

fredworld said:


> Yes. Purely for cosmetric reasons, I replaced it with a Pangea AC14 .6 meter power cable. I thought nothing of it until later in the evening when I was watching a movie and felt that the image was looking better. Although I did not do a visual A/B comparison and have no measuring equipment, my overall sense was that the image has more "pop."


Good for you that you are perceiving more image pop after changing the power cable; however its impossible for a power cable to improve picture quality.


----------



## Brajesh

Bandyka said:


> As for the new firmware it seems to me that Auto iris "normal" works much quicker now. I though it was pretty useless otherwise.


Still not seeing it on the U.S. site.


----------



## fredworld

xplorar said:


> Good for you that you are perceiving more image pop after changing the power cable; however its impossible for a power cable to improve picture quality.


Well, it DEFINITELY improved the appearance of my 5050UB.🎬


----------



## Bandyka

xplorar said:


> Good for you that you are perceiving more image pop after changing the power cable; however its impossible for a power cable to improve picture quality.


placebo is the most powerful drug


----------



## Bandyka

Brajesh said:


> Still not seeing it on the U.S. site.


Same hardware worldwide so I guess you could just use the Aussie version like I did.


----------



## platinum00

Screen allignment is a bit off. It's square everywhere but the bottom. It starts to curve up a little on the edges. I do have a curved screen so not sure if that comes into play.

I can overshoot a little if needed but hoping there is an adjustment for it.

Tried keystone which at -3 helped a little.









Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## zendalex

Bandyka said:


> Same hardware worldwide so I guess you could just use the Aussie version like I did.


So is 1.4 much better than 1.3?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

platinum00 said:


> Screen allignment is a bit off. It's square everywhere but the bottom. It starts to curve up a little on the edges. I do have a curved screen so not sure if that comes into play.
> 
> I can overshoot a little if needed but hoping there is an adjustment for it.
> 
> Tried keystone which at -3 helped a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


you should never use keystone, Yes its due to the curved screen. There isn't much yo can do to correct it.


----------



## rekbones

platinum00 said:


> Screen allignment is a bit off. It's square everywhere but the bottom. It starts to curve up a little on the edges. I do have a curved screen so not sure if that comes into play.
> 
> I can overshoot a little if needed but hoping there is an adjustment for it.
> 
> Tried keystone which at -3 helped a little.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


The projector optics are designed for a flat screen only. The only way to correct it is with an "A" lens that can cost upwards of $12k. You need to over shoot the screen so it shoots the barrel distortion off the screen in the center top and bottom.


----------



## platinum00

Well that sucks.

When is it appropriate to use keystone? I didn't take the image all the way to the edge of the screen to check side straightness and the top is a little wider than the bottom. Adjusting keystone to -2or3 seems to make it straight.. Should I still not use it?

If I overshoot, I need to line up the 4 corners and then the middle top/bottom will just be off a little. Is that correct?





Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

platinum00 said:


> Well that sucks.
> 
> When is it appropriate to use keystone? I didn't take the image all the way to the edge of the screen to check side straightness and the top is a little wider than the bottom. Adjusting keystone to -2or3 seems to make it straight.. Should I still not use it?
> 
> If I overshoot, I need to line up the 4 corners and then the middle top/bottom will just be off a little. Is that correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Never use digital keystone as it degrades the picture because you lose one to one pixel mapping. You are correct line up the four corners and the center barrel distortion will be off the screen, most won't notice.


----------



## platinum00

cool.. thanks..

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

platinum00 said:


> Well that sucks.
> 
> When is it appropriate to use keystone? I didn't take the image all the way to the edge of the screen to check side straightness and the top is a little wider than the bottom. Adjusting keystone to -2or3 seems to make it straight.. Should I still not use it?
> 
> If I overshoot, I need to line up the 4 corners and then the middle top/bottom will just be off a little. Is that correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


It's never appropriate as it will result in distortion, it is only there as the absolute last resort in extreme cases.
Back in the early days well over 10 years ago I also had a curved one as I thought it looked cool but quickly realized it did nothing except introduced issues like you have. Its however fine if you overshoot the screen.


----------



## audiochron

Evening all - TW8400 (5050UB) owner of 4 months now, my second projector, and this thing has been so, so great! Have been lurking this thread for quite some time, so many thanks to all that have contributed.

However. Tonight I threw The Revenant 4k disc into my Panny UB820, turned the lights off, all was going well until about 10 minutes into the film. I then got a flicker of digital noise and the visuals dropped out, back around 7 seconds later, seemed like a handshake issue or something. Then it happened again a few minutes later. I rewound that scene and it played through fine. Then a third time, when the projector didn't bring the signal back, and hasn't since.

I was unsure where there was an issue in the signal chain, so I've power cycled everything (BDP, Amp first, tested, then again everything including the PJ). But to no avail. The projector no longer wants to receive signal through either HDMI port. 

With the $350 AUD optical HDMI cable that I've been using since day one without issue, with expanded EDID, 4k 60 HDR from the X1X and 4k 60 HDR (Gemini Man) from the UB820 - no problems with plenty of daily use since July - to go straight from the X1X, and then UB820, to the projector. No dice.

I am able to use the projector functions, menus, etc, no problem btw.

So, friends, what to try next?

Why would I lose signal mid-film? I've watched some hundreds of movies, including around 40 4k discs, and my setup hasn't changed since day one. Has my PJ developed an issue?


----------



## mon2479

audiochron said:


> Evening all - TW8400 (5050UB) owner of 4 months now, my second projector, and this thing has been so, so great! Have been lurking this thread for quite some time, so many thanks to all that have contributed.
> 
> However. Tonight I threw The Revenant 4k disc into my Panny UB820, turned the lights off, all was going well until about 10 minutes into the film. I then got a flicker of digital noise and the visuals dropped out, back around 7 seconds later, seemed like a handshake issue or something. Then it happened again a few minutes later. I rewound that scene and it played through fine. Then a third time, when the projector didn't bring the signal back, and hasn't since.
> 
> I was unsure where there was an issue in the signal chain, so I've power cycled everything (BDP, Amp first, tested, then again everything including the PJ). But to no avail. The projector no longer wants to receive signal through either HDMI port.
> 
> With the $350 AUD optical HDMI cable that I've been using since day one without issue, with expanded EDID, 4k 60 HDR from the X1X and 4k 60 HDR (Gemini Man) from the UB820 - no problems with plenty of daily use since July - to go straight from the X1X, and then UB820, to the projector. No dice.
> 
> I am able to use the projector functions, menus, etc, no problem btw.
> 
> So, friends, what to try next?
> 
> Why would I lose signal mid-film? I've watched some hundreds of movies, including around 40 4k discs, and my setup hasn't changed since day one. Has my PJ developed an issue?


You have to find the weak point, try sending the video signal directly to the PJ, another idea is switching hdmi inputs. Something else you could do is try a tv and see if you get a 4k signal. Might need to buy a need hdmi cable?? Unfortunately this will take some time, but you will find it!!


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## rekbones

Make sure your eliminate the HDMI cable as it does have components in it and it can fail. If the cable checks out then of course the projector is suspect. Be sure to eliminate every component in the chain one at a time to be sure before you call Epson for warranty.


----------



## platinum00

Bandyka said:


> It's never appropriate as it will result in distortion, it is only there as the absolute last resort in extreme cases.
> Back in the early days well over 10 years ago I also had a curved one as I thought it looked cool but quickly realized it did nothing except introduced issues like you have. Its however fine if you overshoot the screen.


Before purchasing, I did some quick research and bought into the pincushion effect. 

So is my issue only with 16:9 content? Now that I think of it, I don't believe I notice this on 2.35:1. If that's the case I feel a little better as only <10% of my content is 16:9


----------



## Luminated67

@audiochron as the guys have already said it's working through the list of equipment to find the problem, it might be the projector but the likelihood is that it's something else. You could try doing a factory reset on the Projector to see if that sorts it but I would connect Epson support and go through everything with them.


----------



## audiochron

Thanks all - appreciate the replies very much. I eventually managed to get it back up and running, but only for around 20-30 minutes before it conked out again in the same fashion unfortunately.

I'll ponder my options overnight, and do some more testing next chance I get 🤔😴


----------



## plain fan

Are any lights flashing on the projector itself? I'm sure you would have mentioned it if there are but I thought I'd ask the question.


----------



## Bandyka

platinum00 said:


> Before purchasing, I did some quick research and bought into the pincushion effect.
> 
> So is my issue only with 16:9 content? Now that I think of it, I don't believe I notice this on 2.35:1. If that's the case I feel a little better as only <10% of my content is 16:9


It's an issue with any size really, its laws of physics as simple as that. Perhaps you are just not realizing it when there are black bars at the top and bottom that's all. You just need to accept it or sell the screen and get a flat much better quality one which will improve picture quality in general. I remember the ginormous IMAX screen in Sydney that was something but it was specifically designed for that format. Home theater wasn't designed for it, its a gimmick to be frank.


----------



## AVTimme

Watching the Haunting of Bly Manor on Netflix I noticed that I got a much better picture turning off the HDR on my Apple TV

with HDR on dark scenes with fire or light in them got to dark and washed out because of the high lumens from the fire. Adjusting slider didn’t help

any one else with the same experience?


----------



## Hawkmarket

AVTimme said:


> Watching the Haunting of Bly Manor on Netflix I noticed that I got a much better picture turning off the HDR on my Apple TV
> 
> with HDR on dark scenes with fire or light in them got to dark and washed out because of the high lumens from the fire. Adjusting slider didn’t help
> 
> any one else with the same experience?


I believe the recommended settings are 4K SDR with Match Dynamic Range and Match Frame Rate set to on. You'll still get HDR when the the source program is HDR.


----------



## platinum00

Bandyka said:


> It's an issue with any size really, its laws of physics as simple as that. Perhaps you are just not realizing it when there are black bars at the top and bottom that's all. You just need to accept it or sell the screen and get a flat much better quality one which will improve picture quality in general. I remember the ginormous IMAX screen in Sydney that was something but it was specifically designed for that format. Home theater wasn't designed for it, its a gimmick to be frank.


No black bars as the screen itself is 2.35:1. I am going to contact the manufacture to see if I can exchange it. Its not a big enough deal to buy a new one but if I can get one exchanged.. cool.

thanks.


----------



## veekay

This might seem like an odd thing, but am I the only one who is unable to get a picture when booting to the BIOS on a computer? Had no problem with my previous projector and still no problem if I hook into a monitor, but with the 5050ub I get zero picture.


----------



## AVTimme

Hawkmarket said:


> I believe the recommended settings are 4K SDR with Match Dynamic Range and Match Frame Rate set to on. You'll still get HDR when the the source program is HDR.


Yes but I get better picture when I have match Dynamic Range off

since those scenes in HDR are washed out compared to the same scene in SDR (match dynamic rang off)


----------



## audiochron

plain fan said:


> Are any lights flashing on the projector itself? I'm sure you would have mentioned it if there are but I thought I'd ask the question.


Yeah strangely there are not, no. I got up and checked that there was nothing flashing or out of ordinary on the PJ itself. 

It's really weird how it seems fine, things are playing fine, and then it decides, oh, you know what I'm not down for accepting this signal anymore. Electromagnetic interference!? Maybe a solar flare?! :|

I switch inputs on my amp (Denon X1300W) but the PJ won't accept any further signal from any source after it loses it. 

I will need to isolate the components a little more and test, but it's difficult to do as it's a good 15-30 minutes before the problem may appear.


----------



## platinum00

platinum00 said:


> No black bars as the screen itself is 2.35:1. I am going to contact the manufacture to see if I can exchange it. Its not a big enough deal to buy a new one but if I can get one exchanged.. cool.
> 
> thanks.


Well good news I guess. I can exchange for a non curved screen. So, if I am doing that, should I opt for the grey one as well? It's a dedicated light controlled room, black walls and ceiling, so little to no light when viewing.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

veekay said:


> This might seem like an odd thing, but am I the only one who is unable to get a picture when booting to the BIOS on a computer? Had no problem with my previous projector and still no problem if I hook into a monitor, but with the 5050ub I get zero picture.


My HTPC boots fine with my 5050. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

platinum00 said:


> Well good news I guess. I can exchange for a non curved screen. So, if I am doing that, should I opt for the grey one as well? It's a dedicated light controlled room, black walls and ceiling, so little to no light when viewing.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


In a dedicated bat cave you always want a white screen with a gain 1.0 to 1.3.


----------



## biglen

rekbones said:


> In a dedicated bat cave you always want a white screen with a gain 1.0 to 1.3.


I have a gray painted screen in a dedicated bat cave, and my picture is stunning.
















Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## veekay

biglen said:


> My HTPC boots fine with my 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Odd. Using HDMI or the VGA input? This is super annoying having to go into the other room and change equipment when I need to change BIOS settings.


----------



## biglen

veekay said:


> Odd. Using HDMI or the VGA input? This is super annoying having to go into the other room and change equipment when I need to change BIOS settings.


HDMI

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I have a gray painted screen in a dedicated bat cave, and my picture is stunning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Grey screen here too in a dedicated treated room and like you the image is amazing.


----------



## AVTimme

@Luminated67 
What speakers are those?


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Grey screen here too in a dedicated treated room and like you the image is amazing.
> 
> View attachment 3047147
> 
> View attachment 3047148
> View attachment 3047149


From what I understand, a gray screen gives you better contrast and blacks. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

biglen said:


> From what I understand, a gray screen gives you better contrast and blacks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


A gray screen has no effect on contrast it does lower your blacks but equally lowers your whites. A ND filter on the projector will do the same thing, of course we are talking light controlled bat cave here.


----------



## Bandyka

platinum00 said:


> Well good news I guess. I can exchange for a non curved screen. So, if I am doing that, should I opt for the grey one as well? It's a dedicated light controlled room, black walls and ceiling, so little to no light when viewing.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


I would just go with a white one. You've had your experience with a fancy one already


----------



## Hawkmarket

I just recently switched to the new Stewart G4 130 in a room that is NOT as light controlled as either of your rooms and it's an amazing screen. I've yet to see any texture on the screen that's a 1.3 gain and that's after owing it for since July. The reason I switched is Stewart has had a pretty big drop in price in price on their screens in 2020 and a quick google search on the reviews on that screen will tell you all you need to know. Kris Deering wrote a nice review and I think he MAY HAVE replaced his screen with this one. I think. Anyway, with their price drop I was pushed over the edge and I've been very pleased.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

so we can download and install the new firmware 1.4 now? anybody has a link?


----------



## Luminated67

vagos1103gr1 said:


> so we can download and install the new firmware 1.4 now? anybody has a link?


I’ve only this minute download the firmware and put it on my projector so don’t know what’s changed/improved but will be watching a movie tomorrow so give my opinions tomorrow.

Epson Australia - Download Categories

Just put in projector and then the TW9400 which is the European/Australian equivalent. Click All and then download the firmware update to your PC.






Epson Australia - Download Categories


Looking for the latest drivers and software? We provide our customers with the latest and most relevant technical information for all our products here.



tech.epson.com.au


----------



## vagos1103gr1

is good this firmware for the usa model?


----------



## Luminated67

vagos1103gr1 said:


> is good this firmware for the usa model?


I can’t imagine there will be a different one for the USA but if you want to wait that’s up to you.


----------



## AVTimme

Nice with new firmware!


----------



## vagos1103gr1

I just updated. So far everything is good. I didn’t realized any change though


----------



## AVTimme

What improvements should the new firmware do?


----------



## C S

Zedekias said:


> Has anyone switched out their 5050 power cord for a shorter one? I had an outlet installed on the ceiling when finishing my basement and want it to look nice and tidy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I plan to put my plug in the attic above the projector and just put small hole in the Sheetrock so I can keep it all neat. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LowellG

I need help. I either need validation or a fix to a video delay problem. I have owned a 6050 for 2-weeks. Upgraded from a Panny AE7000U. Love the projector, hate the 10 second delay for videos to start. This occurs with Nvidia Shield, first Gen, Apps Plex, Disney+ etc. If I start a video, it takes 10 seconds to start or when I stop to get back to the menu. I can hear the projector switching inside. Also happens with XBox 1X starting and stopping games. I was going through a DenonX4300 so I took it out of the mix on plugged the Shield directly to the projector HDMI port. Same issue. Do I have a defective projector? I have tried 4K setting and 1080 settings on the Shield same result. Same thing happens starting and stopping movies on Apple TV 4k ITunes movies my library. Doesn't matter if movie is 1080 or 4K. The only variation I can find is with FireTV 4K stick. Plex with 1080 starts normal. Put on 4K movie I get the 10 second delay and switching noise. Any ideas would be helpful. Has anybody experienced this? Thanks


----------



## audiochron

LowellG said:


> I need help. I either need validation or a fix to a video delay problem. I have owned a 6050 for 2-weeks. Upgraded from a Panny AE7000U. Love the projector, hate the 10 second delay for videos to start. This occurs with Nvidia Shield, first Gen, Apps Plex, Disney+ etc. If I start a video, it takes 10 seconds to start or when I stop to get back to the menu. I can hear the projector switching inside. Also happens with XBox 1X starting and stopping games. I was going through a DenonX4300 so I took it out of the mix on plugged the Shield directly to the projector HDMI port. Same issue. Do I have a defective projector? I have tried 4K setting and 1080 settings on the Shield same result. Same thing happens starting and stopping movies on Apple TV 4k ITunes movies my library. Doesn't matter if movie is 1080 or 4K. The only variation I can find is with FireTV 4K stick. Plex with 1080 starts normal. Put on 4K movie I get the 10 second delay and switching noise. Any ideas would be helpful. Has anybody experienced this? Thanks


This sounds par for the course to be honest @LowellG - whenever the frame rate changes, there's a blank screen for around 7 seconds for me before the content appears. Sound through my receiver starts before that of course. 

Just an update on my woes from 2 days ago: I had a chance last night and today to play with everything, but things have degraded unfortunately. The signal dropouts became more frequent, and unpredictable, with periods of an hour sometimes, and 5 minutes others, regardless of content. 

I'm now at the point where I can't get it to take any signal via HDMI with either my optic cable, or previous passive cable, on either HDMI port on the PJ. So, I suppose Monday I'll have to get onto the store I purchased from, and Epson and see what can be done.

Shame, because I was looking forward to some extended gaming this weekend on the big screen!


----------



## Luminated67

^I wonder are any other brands any better, I do hear that JVC are slow at handshake so maybe it’s just normal.


----------



## audiochron

Probably. It'd be really nice to get instant handshakes.

So, a breakthrough. I get my old cable running again, Normal EDID on the PJ. So far under those conditions, everything seems fine. No 4k 60 for now, but at least I can throw in a 4k 24hz disc for the short term. I'm leaving it running for a while, but so far so good. 

It seems to be the optical fiber HDMI cable after all. Why does a cable, laying dormant, decide it no longer wants to do it's job? Doesn't it realise how important that job is?! I'm paying above award rates for it to do so!


----------



## Luminated67

^So many times we have had this discuss regarding issues and it almost always ends up the cable and yet each and every time it so hard to convince to order a new Opti-HDMI and see if that cures the problem.

I am no techie guy but I do know one who works for British Telecom and when he tells me something technical I generally listen, what he says regarding fibre-optical cables is they either work or they don’t and there’s no performance difference so by all means you can spend big bucks on one but the likelihood is a dirt cheap one will give you the exact same performance.


----------



## biglen

audiochron said:


> Probably. It'd be really nice to get instant handshakes.
> 
> So, a breakthrough. I get my old cable running again, Normal EDID on the PJ. So far under those conditions, everything seems fine. No 4k 60 for now, but at least I can throw in a 4k 24hz disc for the short term. I'm leaving it running for a while, but so far so good.
> 
> It seems to be the optical fiber HDMI cable after all. Why does a cable, laying dormant, decide it no longer wants to do it's job? Doesn't it realise how important that job is?! I'm paying above award rates for it to do so!


There's no reason to pay outrageous prices for an HDMI cable. Blue Jeans active HDMI cables are priced very reasonably, and work flawlessly. I've been using the 35' Series 3 Active with my 5050, for over a year now, with zero issues. 



HDMI Cable from Blue Jeans Cable



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## LowellG

audiochron said:


> This sounds par for the course to be honest @LowellG - whenever the frame rate changes, there's a blank screen for around 7 seconds for me before the content appears. Sound through my receiver starts before that of course.
> 
> Just an update on my woes from 2 days ago: I had a chance last night and today to play with everything, but things have degraded unfortunately. The signal dropouts became more frequent, and unpredictable, with periods of an hour sometimes, and 5 minutes others, regardless of content.
> 
> I'm now at the point where I can't get it to take any signal via HDMI with either my optic cable, or previous passive cable, on either HDMI port on the PJ. So, I suppose Monday I'll have to get onto the store I purchased from, and Epson and see what can be done.
> 
> Shame, because I was looking forward to some extended gaming this weekend on the big screen!


Thank for you response. I saw in other posts you linked it back to the cable. I was using an 8K cable plugged directly to the projector and still had the problems. Let me know if you still have the delay issues with new cables. Thanks.


----------



## audiochron

Absolutely, I had hoped it was the cable, much cheaper to replace. Thanks @biglen I'll shop around and see what I can source down under, if not order from o/s. 

Thing is @Luminated67 I did have a cable, and it was working perfectly.. for the first 4 months. The 10m run to my pj made it hard to source here in Australia for a decent price. The local shop guys are great though so I'll take it back and see if they can test it for me.

@LowellG will do, no worries. It's the same on my older passive cable though.


----------



## Luminated67

audiochron said:


> Absolutely, I had hoped it was the cable, much cheaper to replace. Thanks @biglen I'll shop around and see what I can source down under, if not order from o/s.
> 
> Thing is @Luminated67 I did have a cable, and it was working perfectly.. for the first 4 months. The 10m run to my pj made it hard to source here in Australia for a decent price. The local shop guys are great though so I'll take it back and see if they can test it for me.
> 
> @LowellG will do, no worries. It's the same on my older passive cable though.


I had the issue when I got my Epson at the first because it blank of my £120 QED HDMI and it wasn’t until I got the Opti-HDMI that it was cured. My remarks weren’t meant as a dig, just that it’s almost always the cable at fault and the beauty of Amazon is their return for refund policy, dead simple to test if it was indeed the problem and if not you return it back to Amazon for a refund.


----------



## arnemetis

LowellG said:


> I need help. I either need validation or a fix to a video delay problem. I have owned a 6050 for 2-weeks. Upgraded from a Panny AE7000U. Love the projector, hate the 10 second delay for videos to start. This occurs with Nvidia Shield, first Gen, Apps Plex, Disney+ etc. If I start a video, it takes 10 seconds to start or when I stop to get back to the menu. I can hear the projector switching inside. Also happens with XBox 1X starting and stopping games. I was going through a DenonX4300 so I took it out of the mix on plugged the Shield directly to the projector HDMI port. Same issue. Do I have a defective projector? I have tried 4K setting and 1080 settings on the Shield same result. Same thing happens starting and stopping movies on Apple TV 4k ITunes movies my library. Doesn't matter if movie is 1080 or 4K. The only variation I can find is with FireTV 4K stick. Plex with 1080 starts normal. Put on 4K movie I get the 10 second delay and switching noise. Any ideas would be helpful. Has anybody experienced this? Thanks


You might try to change the display mode of the shield to have 23.976 instead of the default 60. The delay use most likely the projector switching refresh rates when your start and stop media. I noticed similar behavior at first but quickly remembered to set this, though ten seconds sounds quite long.


----------



## rustolemite

Just a dumb question about painting the ceiling, right now all my walls are dark flat green and plan on putting a black color on the ceiling. Does it have to be a "dark" black or just any shade of black? Was looking like the color of chalk board maybe? This is going to be in my living room do didn't want to go completely super black. 
Any color code recommendations would be great as well.

Thanks


----------



## Luminated67

rustolemite said:


> Just a dumb question about painting the ceiling, right now all my walls are dark flat green and plan on putting a black color on the ceiling. Does it have to be a "dark" black or just any shade of black? Was looking like the color of chalk board maybe? This is going to be in my living room do didn't want to go completely super black.
> Any color code recommendations would be great as well.
> 
> Thanks


The obvious answer is the darker the better but the honest answer is anything is better than white or a light colour so you will definitely benefit from whatever black shade you end up picking.


----------



## rustolemite

Luminated67 said:


> The obvious answer is the darker the better but the honest answer is anything is better than white or a light colour so you will definitely benefit from whatever black shade you end up picking.


Thanks for the info. I was hoping that any color would be a big difference than the all white ceiling, was hoping a lighter black would make a big difference. Really excited to see what the difference is in the picture on my 137" screen. Especially when running 2.35:1, 

Thanks


----------



## gunlife

rustolemite said:


> Thanks for the info. I was hoping that any color would be a big difference than the all white ceiling, was hoping a lighter black would make a big difference. Really excited to see what the difference is in the picture on my 137" screen. Especially when running 2.35:1,
> 
> Thanks


A dark ceiling will be the biggest change you have made to your theater EVER! So you should be excited!

I kid you not I got a bigger performance jump when I blacked out my ceiling then a did going from my Epson 4000 to my 5050.


----------



## rustolemite

gunlife said:


> A dark ceiling will be the biggest change you have made to your theater EVER! So you should be excited!
> 
> I kid you not I got a bigger performance jump when I blacked out my ceiling then a did going from my Epson 4000 to my 5050.


Thanks for the response that is really what I was hoping for. Right I have a door on either side forward of the screen that are also enamel white and will be painting them green like the walls. Can't wait to see what it does for the top and bottom of black bars for movies. 
I had thought about an ALR screen but the cost of one or something like it the is also an AT screen is too much, way cheaper to paint.

Thanks.


----------



## gunlife

rustolemite said:


> Thanks for the response that is really what I was hoping for. Right I have a door on either side forward of the screen that are also enamel white and will be painting them green like the walls. Can't wait to see what it does for the top and bottom of black bars for movies.
> I had thought about an ALR screen but the cost of one or something like it the is also an AT screen is too much, way cheaper to paint.
> 
> Thanks.


Tried the ALR. If you can black your ceiling out your way way way way better of with a white screen. ALR caused a lot of other color issues. I did do a triple black velvet on my ceiling BTW. So I never tried just paint. Cost me like 70 bucks for the velvet off amazon. Best money I ever spend on my theater. All you see now is the screen. You cannot make out the back wall at all which does wonders for immersion. 

Have fun man!


----------



## biglen

gunlife said:


> Tried the ALR. If you can black your ceiling out your way way way way better of with a white screen. ALR caused a lot of other color issues. I did do a triple black velvet on my ceiling BTW. So I never tried just paint. Cost me like 70 bucks for the velvet off amazon. Best money I ever spend on my theater. All you see now is the screen. You cannot make out the back wall at all which does wonders for immersion.
> 
> Have fun man!


I agree. If you can use velvet on the ceiling and sides of the screen, it's better than any black paint, in my opinion. At the very least, do the first 5-6' of the ceiling and walls, and black paint for the rest. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## LowellG

arnemetis said:


> You might try to change the display mode of the shield to have 23.976 instead of the default 60. The delay use most likely the projector switching refresh rates when your start and stop media. I noticed similar behavior at first but quickly remembered to set this, though ten seconds sounds quite long.


That was a partial fix. Plex 1080 content now has little delay. I also had to change the setting in Plex to not adjust resolution. Not sure why the combo works, but it does. It still has a delay with native 4K MKVs. Thanks.


----------



## arnemetis

LowellG said:


> That was a partial fix. Plex 1080 content now has little delay. I also had to change the setting in Plex to not adjust resolution. Not sure why the combo works, but it does. It still has a delay with native 4K MKVs. Thanks.


I have my shield set to 4k 23.976hz for resolution under display & sound. In Plex settings, I have refresh rate switching on but resolution switching off. I found this combination results in the least amount of switching for me, maybe give it a try. The only real delay I have is switching color mode from natural to digital cinema for hdr stuff, but that's to be expected as it is the color filter in place.


----------



## Mackd2019

audiochron said:


> This sounds par for the course to be honest @LowellG - whenever the frame rate changes, there's a blank screen for around 7 seconds for me before the content appears. Sound through my receiver starts before that of course.
> 
> Just an update on my woes from 2 days ago: I had a chance last night and today to play with everything, but things have degraded unfortunately. The signal dropouts became more frequent, and unpredictable, with periods of an hour sometimes, and 5 minutes others, regardless of content.
> 
> I'm now at the point where I can't get it to take any signal via HDMI with either my optic cable, or previous passive cable, on either HDMI port on the PJ. So, I suppose Monday I'll have to get onto the store I purchased from, and Epson and see what can be done.
> 
> Shame, because I was looking forward to some extended gaming this weekend on the big screen!


It may be your UB820. Recently returned it after I had similar issues. I see that you had issues with UHD disc, but in my case it was with playing certain blu rays. For comparison, I played the same disc in old blu ray player with no issues. Do a google search for UB820 playback issues.


----------



## Mackd2019

audiochron said:


> Evening all - TW8400 (5050UB) owner of 4 months now, my second projector, and this thing has been so, so great! Have been lurking this thread for quite some time, so many thanks to all that have contributed.
> 
> However. Tonight I threw The Revenant 4k disc into my Panny UB820, turned the lights off, all was going well until about 10 minutes into the film. I then got a flicker of digital noise and the visuals dropped out, back around 7 seconds later, seemed like a handshake issue or something. Then it happened again a few minutes later. I rewound that scene and it played through fine. Then a third time, when the projector didn't bring the signal back, and hasn't since.
> 
> I was unsure where there was an issue in the signal chain, so I've power cycled everything (BDP, Amp first, tested, then again everything including the PJ). But to no avail. The projector no longer wants to receive signal through either HDMI port.
> 
> With the $350 AUD optical HDMI cable that I've been using since day one without issue, with expanded EDID, 4k 60 HDR from the X1X and 4k 60 HDR (Gemini Man) from the UB820 - no problems with plenty of daily use since July - to go straight from the X1X, and then UB820, to the projector. No dice.
> 
> I am able to use the projector functions, menus, etc, no problem btw.
> 
> So, friends, what to try next?
> 
> Why would I lose signal mid-film? I've watched some hundreds of movies, including around 40 4k discs, and my setup hasn't changed since day one. Has my PJ developed an issue?


See my post above..replied to the wrong post earlier.


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## audiochron

Mackd2019 said:


> See my post above..replied to the wrong post earlier.


Thanks @Mackd2019 - I have had trouble getting the odd disc to play in the UB820, when the XoneX plays them no problem. 

At first I thought it was the disc, then the player, then the amp, then the cable, then the projector. But now I'm back to the cable. At first my older cable wasn't getting a signal to the PJ either, until I set the EDID back to normal which makes sense (I forgot that older cable couldn't carry 18gbps)

The optiHDMI cable I am using had zero issues from the day I got it, then has faulted. I'm returning it to see if it can be tested and/or replaced.


----------



## biglen

LowellG said:


> I need help. I either need validation or a fix to a video delay problem. I have owned a 6050 for 2-weeks. Upgraded from a Panny AE7000U. Love the projector, hate the 10 second delay for videos to start. This occurs with Nvidia Shield, first Gen, Apps Plex, Disney+ etc. If I start a video, it takes 10 seconds to start or when I stop to get back to the menu. I can hear the projector switching inside. Also happens with XBox 1X starting and stopping games. I was going through a DenonX4300 so I took it out of the mix on plugged the Shield directly to the projector HDMI port. Same issue. Do I have a defective projector? I have tried 4K setting and 1080 settings on the Shield same result. Same thing happens starting and stopping movies on Apple TV 4k ITunes movies my library. Doesn't matter if movie is 1080 or 4K. The only variation I can find is with FireTV 4K stick. Plex with 1080 starts normal. Put on 4K movie I get the 10 second delay and switching noise. Any ideas would be helpful. Has anybody experienced this? Thanks


I also have a Shield, so I just tried a bunch of MKVs on PLEX. I tried 1080p, 4k, and HDR movies, and I have zero delay. PLEX has auto resolution and refresh rate turned on. Here are my Shield settings.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MississippiMan

rekbones said:


> A gray screen has no effect on contrast it does lower your blacks but equally lowers your whites. A ND filter on the projector will do the same thing, of course we are talking light controlled bat cave here.


`
While such is true for a standard Neutral Grey surface, with equal attenuation variables based on the shade of Grey, there are a very few expensive Mfg Screens (2) and at least one multi-component Screen Paint that do improve "off the Screen" contrast...lowering the Black Floor while maintaining Whites.The latter having been doing such for about 15 years on now. The trick for both being the maintaining of positive Gain while also having a decidedly Grey Surface. Many have done so..a great many actually.

Just sayin'....'cause it's true.

The 5050 /6050 units areideally suited to benefit from such.



biglen said:


> There's no reason to pay outrageous prices for an HDMI cable. Blue Jeans active HDMI cables are priced very reasonably, and work flawlessly. I've been using the 35' Series 3 Active with my 5050, for over a year now, with zero issues.


A careful shopper can find a plethora of excellent FO HDMI prices for 50'ers and longer (examp: 50' @ $69.00)...and some HDMI Certified 25'ers (Cable Matters) for under $27.00. Both are found on Amazon....both are Prime so no risk involved.


----------



## Werewolf79

I bought an Epson TW9400 which is the Epson 6050 over In the USA, I also bought a Panasonic 820 player, the screen uniformity was great out of the box, but grayscale, gamma and the colours needed work.

i am having some issues, I use a meter and Chromapure to calibrate, Rec 709 was easy, I did have to be aggressive with the custom grayscale to get my preferred gamma of 2.3 to 2.4 for Rec 709.

The issue is with BT2020 and calibration, I did grayscale, for that very good, i calibrated the colours very good, the issue is the gamma response, I am sending an SDR/BT2020 signal from the Panasonic to the projector, I have HDR optimiser on, Gamma is crazy, at bottom end 2.1, then it creeps up past 3, past 4 and into 5 and it just seems crazy, is this normal ?

The image itself on a disc looked fine after setting the slider on the Projector, for Halloween it looked fine at 2. But for spears and Munsil demo material I thought 13 looked best, cloud detail was strong at 13, but I do not know if this is correct, i calibrated using spears and Munsil and at 1000 nits since many discs are 1000 nits, I think I may need to redo contrast, but gamma seems an issue to me.

Help appreciated, for those with a meter how do you calibrate and get the gamma correct, at -2 it would not do 2.4 gamma, at any setting it will not, so what controls do adjusted ?


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> I bought an Epson TW9400 which is the Epson 6050 over In the USA, I also bought a Panasonic 820 player, the screen uniformity was great out of the box, but grayscale, gamma and the colours needed work.
> 
> i am having some issues, I use a meter and Chromapure to calibrate, Rec 709 was easy, I did have to be aggressive with the custom grayscale to get my preferred gamma of 2.3 to 2.4 for Rec 709.
> 
> The issue is with BT2020 and calibration, I did grayscale, for that very good, i calibrated the colours very good, the issue is the gamma response, I am sending an SDR/BT2020 signal from the Panasonic to the projector, I have HDR optimiser on, Gamma is crazy, at bottom end 2.1, then it creeps up past 3, past 4 and into 5 and it just seems crazy, is this normal ?
> 
> The image itself on a disc looked fine after setting the slider on the Projector, for Halloween it looked fine at 2. But for spears and Munsil demo material I thought 13 looked best, cloud detail was strong at 13, but I do not know if this is correct, i calibrated using spears and Munsil and at 1000 nits since many discs are 1000 nits, I think I may need to redo contrast, but gamma seems an issue to me.
> 
> Help appreciated, for those with a meter how do you calibrate and get the gamma correct, at -2 it would not do 2.4 gamma, at any setting it will not, so what controls do adjusted ?


For rec 709, you said “I did have to be aggressive with the custom grayscale to get my preferred gamma of 2.3 to 2.4 for Rec 709.” Do you mean you had to be aggressive with the custom gamma? If so, how aggressive? I’d be interested to compare it with my custom gamma settings. Some points have to go down as low as -20 to get close to 2.4.

I’m a bit confused by what you’re saying about bt2020 calibration. If you’re sending sdr/bt2020, isn’t the projector slider disabled, since it’s only for an HDR signal?


----------



## Werewolf79

sddawson said:


> For rec 709, you said “I did have to be aggressive with the custom grayscale to get my preferred gamma of 2.3 to 2.4 for Rec 709.” Do you mean you had to be aggressive with the custom gamma? If so, how aggressive? I’d be interested to compare it with my custom gamma settings. Some points have to go down as low as -20 to get close to 2.4.
> 
> I’m a bit confused by what you’re saying about bt2020 calibration. If you’re sending sdr/bt2020, isn’t the projector slider disabled, since it’s only for an HDR signal?


I had to go to near -30 on mine for some and around -20 on others.


----------



## Werewolf79

sddawson said:


> For rec 709, you said “I did have to be aggressive with the custom grayscale to get my preferred gamma of 2.3 to 2.4 for Rec 709.” Do you mean you had to be aggressive with the custom gamma? If so, how aggressive? I’d be interested to compare it with my custom gamma settings. Some points have to go down as low as -20 to get close to 2.4.
> 
> I’m a bit confused by what you’re saying about bt2020 calibration. If you’re sending sdr/bt2020, isn’t the projector slider disabled, since it’s only for an HDR signal?


I have no experience with HDR, I sent the signal then switched it to HDR10 in the projector which enables the slider, without doing this it resembles a REC709 tone image.


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> I have no experience with HDR, I sent the signal then switched it to HDR10 in the projector which enables the slider, without doing this it resembles a REC709 tone image.


I’m no expert in this, but if you have the player set to sdr/bt2020, you should be calibrating for sdr in the projector, not setting it to hdr manually. So do a normal sdr greyscale/gamma calibration for your chosen lamp mode. The player does all the tone mapping, outputs an sdr signal, and expects the display to have a gamma of 2.4. You can play with the Dynamic Range Conversion adjustment in the player if you like.

Thanks for the info re having to go to -30 on some custom gamma points to get to 2.4. There certainly seems to be a lot of unit variation with regards to this. If you get a chance, it would be interesting to hear what gamma -2 measures.


----------



## fredworld

sddawson said:


> I’m no expert in this, but if you have the player set to sdr/bt2020, you should be calibrating for sdr in the projector, not setting it to hdr manually. So do a normal sdr greyscale/gamma calibration for your chosen lamp mode. The player does all the tone mapping, outputs an sdr signal, and expects the display to have a gamma of 2.4. You can play with the Dynamic Range Conversion adjustment in the player if you like.
> 
> Thanks for the info re having to go to -30 on some custom gamma points to get to 2.4. There certainly seems to be a lot of unit variation with regards to this. If you get a chance, it would be interesting to hear what gamma -2 measures.


FWIW for your comparison, *here's DAGamePimp's post from several months ago* with comments on the Gamma measurements he made.


----------



## Werewolf79

fredworld said:


> FWIW for your comparison, *here's DAGamePimp's post from several months ago* with comments on the Gamma measurements he made.


There seems to be a variance with these a Epson projectors, I cannot get 2.4 gamma using -2, i have to use the custom controls and so far I have only achieved it with Rec 709, I will be trying again later but I am finding HDR difficult to calibrate.

i now have Contrast at 33 and I am using Spears and Munsil to determine that and brightness at 48, I have the Panasonic DR slider on +7 and optimiser switched on, grayscale is calibrated, the colours are calibrated but the gamma is reading as very off, yet when I put some movies in to test it all seems fine just going by eye, I don’t understand it.


----------



## sddawson

fredworld said:


> FWIW for your comparison, *here's DAGamePimp's post from several months ago* with comments on the Gamma measurements he made.


Yes, and he said -2 gave a 2.4 gamma, which certainly isn’t the case with mine (or some others it seems). Whether this is normal variation, who knows?


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> There seems to be a variance with these a Epson projectors, I cannot get 2.4 gamma using -2, i have to use the custom controls and so far I have only achieved it with Rec 709, I will be trying again later but I am finding HDR difficult to calibrate.
> 
> i now have Contrast at 33 and I am using Spears and Munsil to determine that and brightness at 48, I have the Panasonic DR slider on +7 and optimiser switched on, grayscale is calibrated, the colours are calibrated but the gamma is reading as very off, yet when I put some movies in to test it all seems fine just going by eye, I don’t understand it.


I too have to use custom gamma to get to 2.4, as I’ve said. Are you still forcing the projector into HDR mode? If so, you really mustn’t do that. With the Pana on sdr/bt2020, the projector is receiving an SDR feed. For that mode, calibrate to 2.4 gamma (because that’s what the Pana assumes when doing its tone mapping) and it should look great. There also shouldn’t be the need for those massive contrast changes.


----------



## rustolemite

biglen said:


> I agree. If you can use velvet on the ceiling and sides of the screen, it's better than any black paint, in my opinion. At the very least, do the first 5-6' of the ceiling and walls, and black paint for the rest.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Wish I could but my viewing is in my living room and its the first room you enter when coming in the house. So the paint is the best I can do.

Thanks


----------



## DaGamePimp

fredworld said:


> FWIW for your comparison, *here's DAGamePimp's post from several months ago* with comments on the Gamma measurements he made.



Hey guys, sorry I have only been popping on AVS here and there due to feeling crummy (have not even turned on the 5050 in several weeks, have not put in the new lamp ).

Consider lamp hours can account for Gamma variance aside from unit to unit differences. I am also using a Videoforge Test Pattern Generator versus an optical disc player.

Also for those doing their own calibrations make sure you have disabled the mechanical/dynamic iris when doing it (I know this is well known but sometimes we all overlook the obvious).

I hope to get the new lamp installed and run up 100 hours so that I can get back to some calibrations, I see there is a new firmware as well so I guess I'll update while I'm at it. 

* I should also note that settings vary from mode to mode so before attempting to make comparisons be sure you are talking about the same picture mode. 

Stay safe,
Jason


----------



## Pretorian

I have the 6050/9400. I think I have all the settings correct and the HDR image looks great. 
But is there some settings I can check both on my Epson side and on my AVR side so that I dont miss anything?
I am using the Denon X4500.


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> I have the 6050/9400. I think I have all the settings correct and the HDR image looks great.
> But is there some settings I can check both on my Epson side and on my AVR side so that I dont miss anything?
> I am using the Denon X4500.


Only thing I would personally do is make sure you turn off the upscaling on the Denon.


----------



## platinum00

To get to 2.4 gamma I have points from -2 through -7.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## friendswithdave

I've been researching my replacements for my 2008 Panasonic PT-AE3000 for awhile now. I love it, but it seems that technology has advanced such that a new 5050 or a used 5040 will give me a significantly better picture for my home theater.

I have two questions for the gang:
1 - After reading this and other PJ pages for awhile, I am worried about how much time I will have to spend with my projector. My preference would be to get it installed on my ceiling, spend 30-60 minutes getting it setup based on best advice here, then leave it alone for the next 10 years or so. In other words, I would not change settings, fiddle with gamma, or anything else. I would like to turn it on, get a great picture with whatever I'm watching (TV, movie, sports), and turn it off when I'm done. Can I do that with a 5050 or 5040?

2 - I don't mind buying used products. Most of my gear has been purchased used. It looks like I can get a used 5040 for around $1500 or a new 5050 for around $3000. Are the improvements in the 5050 (plus the warranty) worth it to pay double over the 5040? Are the 5040's known to be reliable?

Thanks yall.


----------



## Werewolf79

friendswithdave said:


> I've been researching my replacements for my 2008 Panasonic PT-AE3000 for awhile now. I love it, but it seems that technology has advanced such that a new 5050 or a used 5040 will give me a significantly better picture for my home theater.
> 
> I have two questions for the gang:
> 1 - After reading this and other PJ pages for awhile, I am worried about how much time I will have to spend with my projector. My preference would be to get it installed on my ceiling, spend 30-60 minutes getting it setup based on best advice here, then leave it alone for the next 10 years or so. In other words, I would not change settings, fiddle with gamma, or anything else. I would like to turn it on, get a great picture with whatever I'm watching (TV, movie, sports), and turn it off when I'm done. Can I do that with a 5050 or 5040?
> 
> 2 - I don't mind buying used products. Most of my gear has been purchased used. It looks like I can get a used 5040 for around $1500 or a new 5050 for around $3000. Are the improvements in the 5050 (plus the warranty) worth it to pay double over the 5040? Are the 5040's known to be reliable?
> 
> Thanks yall.


Depends on whether you have ever watched a calibrated display for a long time, if so then the answer is probably not as all displays need work, on the other hand you may find the image is perfectly fine for your eyes, I tend to think if you are going to get this projector spend a tiny amount more to get it calibrated after the bulb has reached around 100 hours.

Now I myself am going to spend the evening trying to calibrate SDR/BT2020 again.

I have a DLP I use for 3D films, but I wanted to see what 3D is like on this projector using more difficult films where I know crosstalk can creep in, I have established the Samsung 3D glasses I had from 12 years work but unfortunately my nicer Optoma glasses do not work, I also cannot get the Panasonic TY-ER3D4ME glasses to work, but then I forgot how they pair up to a display, is anyone using them ? 

I am pretty fussy with crosstalk but if I somehow could get 9ft lambert on the Epson in a calibrated 3D mode I would take a little crosstalk, on my DLP it’s 3 ft lambert as the glasses take away 82% of the light.


----------



## Werewolf79

I don’t know how to edit my post, that should say 3D glasses from 2012, 8 years ago.


----------



## veekay

Is there a trick to getting HDR to work in Windows 10 without cutting the brightness almost in half, or is that just how HDR works?

Really prefer keeping the desktop set to regular old 1080p SDR, but some games won't switch over to using HDR without it being enabled.


----------



## platinum00

ok.. I swapped from the curved screen to the flat screen. it is much better but I still have pinching at the top, or bloating at the bottom, depending on how you look at it.

Its probally not a big deal but wanted to get your thoughts 
























Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Werewolf79

I spent all night again working on the gamma, again I had to go to extreme controls, I am talking 32 on two of the controls to get gamma down to 2.3 and 2.4, at 30 ire, 40 ire and 50 ire it stubbornly refuses to shift under 3, that’s just wrong, the gamma is wrong.

i am wondering if the Panasonic player is at fault or the Spears and Munsil UHD disc, I am going to use an X Box tomorrow and also go directly through the computer using the inbuilt spears and Munsil pattern generator.

i would hate to have to contact the dealer but this is less than a week old.

Could the bulb need time to settle for the gamma to work correctly ?


----------



## platinum00

Not that this is your issue but I have had horrible luck with my bluray player. It clips black , it clips white, gamma is off.. it's just junk. I never used it anyway so I moved the calibration files (mp4) to the shield which I use 95,% of the time. no clipping and gamma is much better.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

platinum00 said:


> ok.. I swapped from the curved screen to the flat screen. it is much better but I still have pinching at the top, or bloating at the bottom, depending on how you look at it.
> 
> Its probally not a big deal but wanted to get your thoughts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Your projector is not exactly perpendicular to the screen. You need to tilt it down just a touch. Just because it is level the chance your wall the screen is attached to is plum is unlikely.


----------



## platinum00

so tilt the projector down and then lens shift up?

NOTE.. projector is ceiling mounted.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> I spent all night again working on the gamma, again I had to go to extreme controls, I am talking 32 on two of the controls to get gamma down to 2.3 and 2.4, at 30 ire, 40 ire and 50 ire it stubbornly refuses to shift under 3, that’s just wrong, the gamma is wrong.
> 
> i am wondering if the Panasonic player is at fault or the Spears and Munsil UHD disc, I am going to use an X Box tomorrow and also go directly through the computer using the inbuilt spears and Munsil pattern generator.
> 
> i would hate to have to contact the dealer but this is less than a week old.
> 
> Could the bulb need time to settle for the gamma to work correctly ?


How exactly are you measuring gamma? What software, meter etc? You said before you could get to 2.4 in sdr. If you’re using sdr/bt2020 in the Pana, there’s nothing more you need to do. Use your calibrated sdr preset to play back uhd. You might need to slightly adjust brightness and contrast, and you could calibrate the bt2020 colour using the cms if you like. But your sdr preset should be a very good starting point.

Also, what size screen do you have, and what colour mode (Natural, Cinema etc) and lamp power are you using?


----------



## Bandyka

Werewolf79 said:


> There seems to be a variance with these a Epson projectors, I cannot get 2.4 gamma using -2, i have to use the custom controls and so far I have only achieved it with Rec 709, I will be trying again later but I am finding HDR difficult to calibrate.
> 
> i now have Contrast at 33 and I am using Spears and Munsil to determine that and brightness at 48, I have the Panasonic DR slider on +7 and optimiser switched on, grayscale is calibrated, the colours are calibrated but the gamma is reading as very off, yet when I put some movies in to test it all seems fine just going by eye, I don’t understand it.


Same here, gamma cannot be set to 2.4 at all, only close to it by aggressive custom tracking but that can't be set flat just like you describe. My previous 9300 did not have this problem. I am seeing this as a pattern on new 9400 so I am thinking this is the way it is as EPSON might have sacrificed top end gamma to achieve a punchier HDR image. avforums review indicated the same thing.

My sample also needed extreme BT2020 color calibration as out of the box it only achieve 76% of P3.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Did we ever figure out what the latest update added?


----------



## Werewolf79

Bandyka said:


> Same here, gamma cannot be set to 2.4 at all, only close to it by aggressive custom tracking but that can't be set flat just like you describe. My previous 9300 did not have this problem. I am seeing this as a pattern on new 9400 so I am thinking this is the way it is as EPSON might have sacrificed top end gamma to achieve a punchier HDR image. avforums review indicated the same thing.
> 
> My sample also needed extreme BT2020 color calibration as out of the box it only achieve 76% of P3.


How do I check what percentage of P3 mine can achieve, I have spears and Munsil disc.

That disc could do with some 25%, 50% and 75% colour patterns with hue, saturation and brightness errors, all I can see if 20%, 40%, 60% and 80% and I don’t see any way to see the errors when choosing those patterns in Chromapure, I did ask on the a Chromapure thread but got no reply so far.

To the above poster i am using Digital cinema for UHD, and Natural for Rec 709, I use an i1 display pro 3 meter with correction profile installed and I tried again this afternoon using HDR sent to the projector from an X Box this time, the projector clips after 50% in this mode I think but using the custom gamma controls I got gamma very good, but then something was wrong, checking the contrast pattern I noticed issues which could only be fixed when switching off the custom gamma controls, I think it was introducing posterisation or contouring into the image as the Warner Bros logos moving clouds at start of the Unforgiven disc looked terrible.

So now I am back at square one, I am wondering if I should return the projector as faulty, the gamma is a very important part of the image, if some are able to get 2.4 using -2 then it tells me there are ones out there that can do it, if people really can get it, I dont want to live with something when it costs this much.

On the other hand I would like to know if the EOTF 2084 gamma curve starts low at bottom end and rises to 9 at the top end, is that normal, if so maybe my projector is normal when HDR mode Is sent from the player, that still leaves a problem in SDR/BT2020 mode.

I am just trying to figure out if I am doing something wrong and there is an easy fix, the Red 709 gamma setting will not work with SDR/BT2020, i cannot fix the gamma at 30 ire, 40 ire and 50 ire, everything else can be dialled in except them.


----------



## fredworld

Luminated67 said:


> Only thing I would personally do is make sure you turn off the upscaling on the Denon.


Is "upscaling" the Video Conversion or i/p Scaler setting? Or something else in the Set-Up menu?


----------



## Cacitems4sale

I’m sure there has been a lot of discussion in this forum regarding 3D glasses, but am looking for to recommendations to purchase 4 pair. I don’t have any knowledge around the glasses so any recommendations will be appreciated.


----------



## platinum00

I bought these 3D glasses. They work great with the 5050. I dont have anything to compare them to, only set I have had.






Amazon.com: 2X 3D Active Shutter Glasses Rechargeable - Sintron ST07-BT for RF 3D TV, 3D Glasses for Sony, Panasonic, Samsung 3D TV, Epson 3D projector, Compatible with TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA TY-ER3D4MA: Computers & Accessories


Buy 2X 3D Active Shutter Glasses Rechargeable - Sintron ST07-BT for RF 3D TV, 3D Glasses for Sony, Panasonic, Samsung 3D TV, Epson 3D projector, Compatible with TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA TY-ER3D4MA: 3D Glasses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## bullfrog23414

Cacitems4sale said:


> I’m sure there has been a lot of discussion in this forum regarding 3D glasses, but am looking for to recommendations to purchase 4 pair. I don’t have any knowledge around the glasses so any recommendations will be appreciated.


I just picked up these based on an earlier recommendation in the thread. All I can say at this point is that I've paired them and they work - we haven't actually used them to watch anything past testing yet. 





Amazon.com: XPAND X105-RF-X1 Rechargeable 3D RF/Bluetooth Glasses,Black: Home Audio & Theater


Buy XPAND X105-RF-X1 Rechargeable 3D RF/Bluetooth Glasses, Black: 3D Glasses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



smile.amazon.com


----------



## Cacitems4sale

platinum00 said:


> I bought these 3D glasses. They work great with the 5050. I dont have anything to compare them to, only set I have had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: 2X 3D Active Shutter Glasses Rechargeable - Sintron ST07-BT for RF 3D TV, 3D Glasses for Sony, Panasonic, Samsung 3D TV, Epson 3D projector, Compatible with TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA TY-ER3D4MA: Computers & Accessories
> 
> 
> Buy 2X 3D Active Shutter Glasses Rechargeable - Sintron ST07-BT for RF 3D TV, 3D Glasses for Sony, Panasonic, Samsung 3D TV, Epson 3D projector, Compatible with TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA TY-ER3D4MA: 3D Glasses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


I imagine they would work with the 6050 as well?


----------



## hungarianhc

Hawkmarket said:


> Did we ever figure out what the latest update added?


Which firmware? I'm still seeing 1.03 on the site.


----------



## Hawkmarket

hungarianhc said:


> Which firmware? I'm still seeing 1.03 on the site.


In theory there's a 1.04 floating out there. Check the international sites such as Epson Australia.


----------



## zendalex

platinum00 said:


> I bought these 3D glasses. They work great with the 5050. I dont have anything to compare them to, only set I have had.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: 2X 3D Active Shutter Glasses Rechargeable - Sintron ST07-BT for RF 3D TV, 3D Glasses for Sony, Panasonic, Samsung 3D TV, Epson 3D projector, Compatible with TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA TY-ER3D4MA: Computers & Accessories
> 
> 
> Buy 2X 3D Active Shutter Glasses Rechargeable - Sintron ST07-BT for RF 3D TV, 3D Glasses for Sony, Panasonic, Samsung 3D TV, Epson 3D projector, Compatible with TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA TY-ER3D4MA: 3D Glasses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


Tried them and had to return. Too narrow which my wife also pointed out. Especially bad if you put them on top of normal glasses.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

That's a good point, I don't have glasses and a narrow build so might not work for everyone.


----------



## fredworld

*See this post* for my recommendations for the 3D Active Glasses SSG-4100GB.


----------



## platinum00

Hawkmarket said:


> In theory there's a 1.04 floating out there. Check the international sites such as Epson Australia.








Epson Australia - Download Categories


Looking for the latest drivers and software? We provide our customers with the latest and most relevant technical information for all our products here.



tech.epson.com.au





Search for EH-TW8400 or EH-TW9400

I cant find any release notes though


----------



## fredworld

platinum00 said:


> Epson Australia - Download Categories
> 
> 
> Looking for the latest drivers and software? We provide our customers with the latest and most relevant technical information for all our products here.
> 
> 
> 
> tech.epson.com.au
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Search for EH-TW8400 or EH-TW9400
> 
> I cant find any release notes though


Perhaps it might have something to do with, "EPSON Projector Management software enables the monitoring of projectors over a wired or wireless network." If so, seems it's not "image" related as the 1.03 vers is.


----------



## Luminated67

fredworld said:


> Is "upscaling" the Video Conversion or i/p Scaler setting? Or something else in the Set-Up menu?


Its that long since I had a Denon AV I genuinely can’t remember, hopefully someone who has a Denon can answer this.


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> How do I check what percentage of P3 mine can achieve, I have spears and Munsil disc.
> 
> That disc could do with some 25%, 50% and 75% colour patterns with hue, saturation and brightness errors, all I can see if 20%, 40%, 60% and 80% and I don’t see any way to see the errors when choosing those patterns in Chromapure, I did ask on the a Chromapure thread but got no reply so far.
> 
> To the above poster i am using Digital cinema for UHD, and Natural for Rec 709, I use an i1 display pro 3 meter with correction profile installed and I tried again this afternoon using HDR sent to the projector from an X Box this time, the projector clips after 50% in this mode I think but using the custom gamma controls I got gamma very good, but then something was wrong, checking the contrast pattern I noticed issues which could only be fixed when switching off the custom gamma controls, I think it was introducing posterisation or contouring into the image as the Warner Bros logos moving clouds at start of the Unforgiven disc looked terrible.
> 
> So now I am back at square one, I am wondering if I should return the projector as faulty, the gamma is a very important part of the image, if some are able to get 2.4 using -2 then it tells me there are ones out there that can do it, if people really can get it, I dont want to live with something when it costs this much.
> 
> On the other hand I would like to know if the EOTF 2084 gamma curve starts low at bottom end and rises to 9 at the top end, is that normal, if so maybe my projector is normal when HDR mode Is sent from the player, that still leaves a problem in SDR/BT2020 mode.
> 
> I am just trying to figure out if I am doing something wrong and there is an easy fix, the Red 709 gamma setting will not work with SDR/BT2020, i cannot fix the gamma at 30 ire, 40 ire and 50 ire, everything else can be dialled in except them.


OK, let's see if I can make some sense of this. Stay calm, I think you're doing something wrong .

First of all, people say -2 gamma is the _closest _to 2.4, not that it _is_ 2.4. I think everyone would need to use custom gamma to get it closer to 2.4, but the degree to which you have to adjust the gamma points into the negative territory varies. But you can get it pretty close. Not ruler flat with these projectors, but probably good enough. I believe you said you've accomplished this with no problems, other than having to use the custom gamma points. Is this correct? What patterns do you use for this? AVSHD, Chromapure disc, Chromapure internal patterns?

*SDR/BT2020*
In this mode, the Pana is "converting" an HDR signal into an SDR one. Nothing is lost in the process. It does all the tone mapping (taking into account disc metadata when the optimiser is on) and presents SDR to the projector. This process _expects_ the display to have a gamma of 2.4. So you do a normal SDR greyscale and gamma for the lamp power of your choice, and you should get a great picture. But you _must_ leave the projector in SDR, not force it to HDR. It is not valid to then go checking gamma after this process has taken place using something like the S&M disc. It's pointless.

Also, if you use Digital Cinema, you must realise that you will lose, I believe, 40% of your lumens. Depending on your screen size, that might not be acceptable. In any event, you will probably have to use at least medium lamp to get any HDR effect. I have a 135" diagonal 16:9 screen and have to use high lamp and Natural to get anything like the required lumens for HDR, and even then it's not really enough.

Many people believe this mode achieves the best outcome for HDR on projectors.

*HDR*
I am by no means an expert in calibrating HDR, so much of this is what I've heard or read. But with that said, let's plow on...

Firstly, the S&M disc is not billed as a calibration disc. It's an evaluation disc, so you can see the effect of any setup you have. If you want proper HDR patterns, you can get some from diversifiedvideosolutions.com (at a cost). 

In the Pana, you can turn on the optimiser and choose a target display luminance. The Pana will tone map to that target, so the projector has less work to do. You can try different settings, in combination with the projector HDR slider. To start, put any other Pana sliders at their default. 

These projectors, I believe, implement HDR in a way I don't think you're expecting. You don't calibrate to a set HDR curve. They have the slider that adjusts the curve depending on content, screen size, content etc. So, again, you should calibrate to a 2.4 gamma on your chosen lamp power using your normal SDR patterns, in SDR mode. Then the projector applies the HDR curve on top of that. And, again, there is no point trying to measure gamma after this has taken place, especially with the S&M disc. Just use the disc to look at the scenes at various nit levels, and patterns like black and white clipping. Conventional wisdom says to leave brightness and contrast at default for HDR, and use the slider to get your desired effect.

Try doing this on both the modes, and see what you come up with. I doubt there's anything seriously wrong with your projector (although, of course, there could be).


----------



## Werewolf79

Can anyone who has the spears and Munsil disc and Panasonic 820 player check the advanced video and colour space evaluation test, whether I have it set to output SDR/BT2020 or HDR/BT2020 it fails the colour clipping tests and seems to have a colour output conversion failure too, I have tried switching optimiser off, changing deep colour settings and basically all the controls, it still fails and the contrast pattern fails too.

The X Box can only send HDR/BT2020 but passes that test and passes the contrast test.

I think for sure I will be returning this Panasonic player unless I can find a reason, it says firmware is 1.64 and is only a week old.


----------



## Werewolf79

sddawson said:


> OK, let's see if I can make some sense of this. Stay calm, I think you're doing something wrong .
> 
> First of all, people say -2 gamma is the _closest _to 2.4, not that it _is_ 2.4. I think everyone would need to use custom gamma to get it closer to 2.4, but the degree to which you have to adjust the gamma points into the negative territory varies. But you can get it pretty close. Not ruler flat with these projectors, but probably good enough. I believe you said you've accomplished this with no problems, other than having to use the custom gamma points. Is this correct? What patterns do you use for this? AVSHD, Chromapure disc, Chromapure internal patterns?
> 
> *SDR/BT2020*
> In this mode, the Pana is "converting" an HDR signal into an SDR one. Nothing is lost in the process. It does all the tone mapping (taking into account disc metadata when the optimiser is on) and presents SDR to the projector. This process _expects_ the display to have a gamma of 2.4. So you do a normal SDR greyscale and gamma for the lamp power of your choice, and you should get a great picture. But you _must_ leave the projector in SDR, not force it to HDR. It is not valid to then go checking gamma after this process has taken place using something like the S&M disc. It's pointless.
> 
> Also, if you use Digital Cinema, you must realise that you will lose, I believe, 40% of your lumens. Depending on your screen size, that might not be acceptable. In any event, you will probably have to use at least medium lamp to get any HDR effect. I have a 135" diagonal 16:9 screen and have to use high lamp and Natural to get anything like the required lumens for HDR, and even then it's not really enough.
> 
> Many people believe this mode achieves the best outcome for HDR on projectors.
> 
> *HDR*
> I am by no means an expert in calibrating HDR, so much of this is what I've heard or read. But with that said, let's plow on...
> 
> Firstly, the S&M disc is not billed as a calibration disc. It's an evaluation disc, so you can see the effect of any setup you have. If you want proper HDR patterns, you can get some from diversifiedvideosolutions.com (at a cost).
> 
> In the Pana, you can turn on the optimiser and choose a target display luminance. The Pana will tone map to that target, so the projector has less work to do. You can try different settings, in combination with the projector HDR slider. To start, put any other Pana sliders at their default.
> 
> These projectors, I believe, implement HDR in a way I don't think you're expecting. You don't calibrate to a set HDR curve. They have the slider that adjusts the curve depending on content, screen size, content etc. So, again, you should calibrate to a 2.4 gamma on your chosen lamp power using your normal SDR patterns, in SDR mode. Then the projector applies the HDR curve on top of that. And, again, there is no point trying to measure gamma after this has taken place, especially with the S&M disc. Just use the disc to look at the scenes at various nit levels, and patterns like black and white clipping. Conventional wisdom says to leave brightness and contrast at default for HDR, and use the slider to get your desired effect.
> 
> Try doing this on both the modes, and see what you come up with. I doubt there's anything seriously wrong with your projector (although, of course, there could be).


I could be doing many things wrong.

The spears and Munsil disc has the patterns required to calibrate but they are windows, I prefer full field, the issue is Chromapure tells you the errors on colours at 100% intensity but the 80% measurement does not tell you the hue, saturation and brightness error from what I can see, same for the 60% measurements, its far better to calibrate at 80% than a full on 100% for colours.

As per my post above, I am seeing a failure with this Panasonic player.


----------



## Werewolf79

Okay I am wondering, should dynamic range be at SDR when sending SDR/BT2020 to the projector, when I switch that from HDR to SDR the contrast pattern works and the colour output conversion pattern shows a pass too.

That was automatically on HDR. If it’s on SDR do I still get wide colour benefits ?


----------



## fakerus

What’s the most effective way to set focus for you guys? I used the grid but still feel like it could improve. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## JonfromCB

fakerus said:


> What’s the most effective way to set focus for you guys? I used the grid but still feel like it could improve.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm with you on the Epson grid not having enough fine detail. Some BRDs have very small print in the credits at the end of the production or you could get a calibration disc with a focus grid.


----------



## biglen

fakerus said:


> What’s the most effective way to set focus for you guys? I used the grid but still feel like it could improve.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The best in my opinion, is getting the words "adjust focus" really sharp. That's what my professional calibrator did too. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

biglen said:


> The best in my opinion, is getting the words "adjust focus" really sharp. That's what my professional calibrator did too.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That is what I did as well but the A in adjust is clear but jagged on left side. Is that others experience? 

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

platinum00 said:


> That is what I did as well but the A in adjust is clear but jagged on left side. Is that others experience?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Not for me. All letters are crisp. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

can you post a pic.. here is mine. maybe is a sharpness not focus issue?

it's clear but you can see letters stairstep .










Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

biglen said:


> The best in my opinion, is getting the words "adjust focus" really sharp. That's what my professional calibrator did too.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That's how I do it too. and be sure panel alignment is done first and 4K enhancement is OFF.

this is mine and it will get better once warmed up but its pretty much bang on:


----------



## Bandyka

platinum00 said:


> can you post a pic.. here is mine. maybe is a sharpness not focus issue?
> 
> it's clear but you can see letters stairstep .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Looks like you might need to adjust panel alignment.


----------



## plain fan

I thought the recommendation was to leave panel alignment off because it was electronically adjusted and not a mechanical adjustment?


----------



## Bandyka

plain fan said:


> I thought the recommendation was to leave panel alignment off because it was electronically adjusted and not a mechanical adjustment?


That's the first thing to get done if you want consistent grayscale etc. if that's out of place the three chips are out of alignment and you will not be able to calibrate well. It works well for me.


----------



## Werewolf79

I got the grayscale perfect, but anyways going back and forward between HDR mode on the Panasonic and the SDR/BT2020 mode, I think I prefer the HDR mode, could be because I cannot get gamma right when sending SDR but HDR just seems to work perfectly with the slider set at 6 or 7 and contrast pattern on the spears and Munsil disc is correctly playing.


----------



## platinum00

oh hell, another setting that impacts calibration. 

If your already calibrated and you turn off panel allignment, do you need to recalibrate?

will play with this tonight . thanks for the tips .


Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

platinum00 said:


> oh hell, another setting that impacts calibration.
> 
> If your already calibrated and you turn off panel allignment, *do you need to recalibrate*?
> 
> will play with this tonight . thanks for the tips .
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Yep as that will fundamentally affect everything.


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## platinum00

I just lost another 2.5 hrs of my life .

my family thinks I spend more time tuning audio and video than listening and watching.

at this point there not wrong ..

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## Bandyka

Well if you enjoy tweaking that isn't lost time is it?


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## platinum00

for sure ..If it's not this it's something else...

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## Yoss

What streaming devices do you guys like best on the 5050ub? My short list is the Apple TV 4k or the Nvidia Shield TV or TV Pro. (I apologize if this topic has been covered multiple times, but my searches haven't turned much up and this is a looooong thread!)

If anyone uses the Apple TV 4K, Shield TV, or TV Pro what has been your experience with judder and streaming 4K content from Netflix or other services and the mishmash of refresh rates they can serve up? I do have other Apple devices so I was leaning that way, but it sounds like they don't have as much flexibility as the Shield when it comes to refresh rates. I know the 5050ub is supposed to have decent frame interpolation, but if it behaves markedly better with a certain device in regards to judder, I'd appreciate feedback.

Of secondary concern is upscaling of non 4K content. I've read mixed reviews of Nvidia's AI upscaling compared to Apple's algorithms but I'm not as worried about that.

I don't have my theater set up just yet. Still working on finishing off the room and screen wall. I'll have a 120 inch screen at 16x9. This is my first projector and my other TVs are still 1080. I don't run a media server and any of the old school games I'd want to emulate would be on a smaller screen, so that aspect of the Shield, while very nice, aren't major considerations for me right now. THANKS!


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## platinum00

Well good news I guess. Panel alignment was already off.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## Bandyka

platinum00 said:


> Well good news I guess. Panel alignment was already off.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


so did you fix it?


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> Okay I am wondering, should dynamic range be at SDR when sending SDR/BT2020 to the projector, when I switch that from HDR to SDR the contrast pattern works and the colour output conversion pattern shows a pass too.
> 
> That was automatically on HDR. If it’s on SDR do I still get wide colour benefits ?


The projector will not automatically switch to HDR mode when you send it SDR/BT2020. The dynamic range setting in the projector should always be on Auto, and will pick as appropriate. In a previous post, you said you were _manually_ switching it to HDR mode for SDR/BT2020. Now you're saying it switches automatically. Are you sure you haven't selected it manually at some stage, then saved that setting in a preset? Yes, you'll get the wide colour benefits with SDR/BT2020.


Werewolf79 said:


> I could be doing many things wrong.
> 
> The spears and Munsil disc has the patterns required to calibrate but they are windows, I prefer full field, the issue is Chromapure tells you the errors on colours at 100% intensity but the 80% measurement does not tell you the hue, saturation and brightness error from what I can see, same for the 60% measurements, its far better to calibrate at 80% than a full on 100% for colours.
> 
> As per my post above, I am seeing a failure with this Panasonic player.


Exactly - that's why S&M isn't a calibration disc. It doesn't have the patterns required for most calibration software.


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## jaredmwright

Yoss said:


> What streaming devices do you guys like best on the 5050ub? My short list is the Apple TV 4k or the Nvidia Shield TV or TV Pro. (I apologize if this topic has been covered multiple times, but my searches haven't turned much up and this is a looooong thread!)
> 
> If anyone uses the Apple TV 4K, Shield TV, or TV Pro what has been your experience with judder and streaming 4K content from Netflix or other services and the mishmash of refresh rates they can serve up? I do have other Apple devices so I was leaning that way, but it sounds like they don't have as much flexibility as the Shield when it comes to refresh rates. I know the 5050ub is supposed to have decent frame interpolation, but if it behaves markedly better with a certain device in regards to judder, I'd appreciate feedback.
> 
> Of secondary concern is upscaling of non 4K content. I've read mixed reviews of Nvidia's AI upscaling compared to Apple's algorithms but I'm not as worried about that.
> 
> I don't have my theater set up just yet. Still working on finishing off the room and screen wall. I'll have a 120 inch screen at 16x9. This is my first projector and my other TVs are still 1080. I don't run a media server and any of the old school games I'd want to emulate would be on a smaller screen, so that aspect of the Shield, while very nice, aren't major considerations for me right now. THANKS!


Nvidia Pro 100%, really a great device all around and you can game on it if interested.

I have one and have no complaints.


----------



## Bandyka

Werewolf79 said:


> Okay I am wondering, should dynamic range be at SDR when sending SDR/BT2020 to the projector, when I switch that from HDR to SDR the contrast pattern works and the colour output conversion pattern shows a pass too.
> 
> That was automatically on HDR. If it’s on SDR do I still get wide colour benefits ?


Just go into the info page and see what the input signal says and swicth modes accordingly. If it says SDR BT2020you get the wide color.


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## Luminated67

Bandyka said:


> Just go into the info page and see what the input signal says and swicth modes accordingly. If it says SDR BT2020you get the wide color.


Yeah the BT2020 is the wide colour bit, isn't that correct?


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## Werewolf79

Been reading through the Chromapure thread, starting to wonder if I have it set up wrong,


sddawson said:


> The projector will not automatically switch to HDR mode when you send it SDR/BT2020. The dynamic range setting in the projector should always be on Auto, and will pick as appropriate. In a previous post, you said you were _manually_ switching it to HDR mode for SDR/BT2020. Now you're saying it switches automatically. Are you sure you haven't selected it manually at some stage, then saved that setting in a preset? Yes, you'll get the wide colour benefits with SDR/BT2020.
> 
> Exactly - that's why S&M isn't a calibration disc. It doesn't have the patterns required for most calibration software.


If SDR/BT2020 is selected it sends SDR signal on auto, correct, if auto is not selected it sends HDR signal but either way I cannot get correct gamma when sending SDR.

If I send an HDR/[email protected] signal my Panasonic sends a 500 nit picture maximum and the optimiser still works so I lose nothing doing it that way and all that is important is the greyscale is calibrated and the colours are calibrated, I still need to do more work on the colours but the gamma follows an EOTF ST2084 curve, i do not have to worry about calibrating gamma when sending HDR.

Slider set and image quality looks good but I still need to work on the colour more, I tested with a number of discs, Passengers, Blade Runner, Braveheart, Star Wars, Pitch Black, Saving Private Ryan, The Shallows, The Revenant and a few others, it looks good to me, and with HDR sent it passes those tests on the Spears and Munsil disc.

You are not reading me correctly, The Spears and Munsil disc DOES have the patterns required to calibrate grayscale, gamma and colour, it’s the Chromapure software that I am having issues with, I see no hue, saturation or brightness errors when choosing a 40%, 60%, or 80% pattern for colour, they might be there but I do not see them, Chromapure 3 is new to me, now I will look again to see if I can find some control to set those and make it easier, I was just asking if anyone knew where to find that control as I want to calibrate colour at 60% and then check the 20%, 40% and 80% modes.


----------



## sddawson

Luminated67 said:


> Yeah the BT2020 is the wide colour bit, isn't that correct?


Yes, that's right.


Bandyka said:


> Just go into the info page and see what the input signal says and swicth modes accordingly. If it says SDR BT2020you get the wide color.


Yes, but there shouldn't be any need at all to switch modes. With Dynamic Range on Auto, the projector will switch accordingly. Of course, you might want to switch presets when switching between SDR and HDR, but that's a different matter. The projector will also switch between BT2020 and Rec709 automatically.


Werewolf79 said:


> Been reading through the Chromapure thread, starting to wonder if I have it set up wrong,
> 
> If SDR/BT2020 is selected it sends SDR signal on auto, correct, if auto is not selected it sends HDR signal but either way I cannot get correct gamma when sending SDR.


Are we talking about the Dynamic Range setting in the projector? Just leave it on Auto. The projector will switch between SDR and HDR depending on what signal is being received. Why would you ever take it off Auto? Changing that setting doesn't change what's being sent by your player. It just forces the projector to interpret the input as SDR or HDR. If you tell it the wrong thing, it will mess up. What Auto won't do, is switch between presets according to the signal being received. You will have to switch between any SDR and HDR presets you have saved manually.

I don't understand why you can't get a correct gamma when sending SDR/BT2020. It's just SDR! And you have calibrated to 2.4 for your normal REC709 stuff. It's the same thing. If you have a saved preset for SDR, start with that when using SDR/BT2020. It too needs a 2.4 gamma. You just use normal SDR patterns and SDR mode to calibrate to 2.4 and greyscale. Don't then put something up from the S&M disc and try to calibrate it again. There's no need (other than for bt2020 gamut).



> If I send an HDR/[email protected] signal my Panasonic sends a 500 nit picture maximum and the optimiser still works so I lose nothing doing it that way and all that is important is the greyscale is calibrated and the colours are calibrated, I still need to do more work on the colours but the gamma follows an EOTF ST2084 curve, i do not have to worry about calibrating gamma when sending HDR.
> 
> Slider set and image quality looks good but I still need to work on the colour more, I tested with a number of discs, Passengers, Blade Runner, Braveheart, Star Wars, Pitch Black, Saving Private Ryan, The Shallows, The Revenant and a few others, it looks good to me, and with HDR sent it passes those tests on the Spears and Munsil disc.


That's all good then!



> You are not reading me correctly, The Spears and Munsil disc DOES have the patterns required to calibrate grayscale, gamma and colour, it’s the Chromapure software that I am having issues with, I see no hue, saturation or brightness errors when choosing a 40%, 60%, or 80% pattern for colour, they might be there but I do not see them, Chromapure 3 is new to me, now I will look again to see if I can find some control to set those and make it easier, I was just asking if anyone knew where to find that control as I want to calibrate colour at 60% and then check the 20%, 40% and 80% modes.


Are we taking about trying to measure other than 100% saturation? The S&M disc has saturation sweeps in 20% increments. When calibrating gamut in Chromapure, you can click the 3 vertical dots (next to the settings gear icon) and choose which saturation you want to measure. But, as is common, I believe you can only measure 25%, 50% and 75%. Maybe these patterns will help HDR10 test patterns set


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## Luminated67

^OK but the question is that if you are getting the wider colour range then surely you should be engaging the filter to see the increased range?


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## platinum00

Bandyka said:


> so did you fix it?


yeah.. all good. for whatever reason it wasn't just right before. Honestly didn't do anything different except adjusted after the projector was warmed up..so I guess that could of had something to do with it 

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## Werewolf79

So more calibration today, one day I might actually watch all these discs I have.

Its telling me I am getting 102% of P3 colour gamut with filter engaged using digital cinema after the calibration of the colours, I have managed to calibrate the gamma to 60% using HDR mode, from what I understand issues at higher levels will be invisible unless your eye is really well trained and it’s not a million miles out at 70 ire and 80 ire.

The bad news is it tells me my colour brightness is 85% to 90% down on all the colours, the hue and saturation are within 0.5% to 1% and I cannot get colour brightness anywhere near accurate, yet it tells me I am getting 102% of P3, so delta errors are recording as high for the colour.

Maybe there is a setting I need to click somewhere, not sure, I am getting 88 nits which is about 25 ft lamberts with the digital cinema mode, my screen is 92 inches.

Can anyone with a meter tell me if they can get the brightness of the colours calibrated, I imagine a massive drop like 85% off calibrated levels would have a big impact on overall i age quality.


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## Bandyka

sddawson said:


> Yes, that's right.
> 
> Yes, but there shouldn't be any need at all to switch modes. With Dynamic Range on Auto, the projector will switch accordingly. Of course, you might want to switch presets when switching between SDR and HDR, but that's a different matter. The projector will also switch between BT2020 and Rec709 automatically.


It won't if it detects SDR BT 2020, it only auto switches if its HDR.


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## sddawson

Luminated67 said:


> ^OK but the question is that if you are getting the wider colour range then surely you should be engaging the filter to see the increased range?


To make the most of it, yes. But with a big screen it’s impossibly dark. You can still use Natural and get an improvement over REC709, just not as good as with the filter.


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## sddawson

Bandyka said:


> It won't if it detects SDR BT 2020, it only auto switches if its HDR.


Really? So if the projector’s dynamic range setting is on Auto, and you feed it HDR it will recognise it and show HDR on the Info page? If you feed it SDR/REC709 it will recognise it and show SDR. But if your feed it SDR/REC709 what’s it going to show?


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## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> So more calibration today, one day I might actually watch all these discs I have.
> 
> Its telling me I am getting 102% of P3 colour gamut with filter engaged using digital cinema after the calibration of the colours, I have managed to calibrate the gamma to 60% using HDR mode, from what I understand issues at higher levels will be invisible unless your eye is really well trained and it’s not a million miles out at 70 ire and 80 ire.
> 
> The bad news is it tells me my colour brightness is 85% to 90% down on all the colours, the hue and saturation are within 0.5% to 1% and I cannot get colour brightness anywhere near accurate, yet it tells me I am getting 102% of P3, so delta errors are recording as high for the colour.
> 
> Maybe there is a setting I need to click somewhere, not sure, I am getting 88 nits which is about 25 ft lamberts with the digital cinema mode, my screen is 92 inches.
> 
> Can anyone with a meter tell me if they can get the brightness of the colours calibrated, I imagine a massive drop like 85% off calibrated levels would have a big impact on overall i age quality.


I thought you said previously you were happy not calibrating gamma in HDR mode. I don’t think you should play with the custom gamma settings while actually in HDR mode. You should start with a normal 2.4 gamma, and the slider process takes over from there to produce 2084. If you calibrate gamma for your current slider position, it will just change if you move the slider. Don’t take all this as gospel. I’m pretty new to this too, and haven’t done HDR myself yet, just researched! But it’s what I understand.

The Chromapure manual has a brief section on HDR, with a suggestion of what patterns to use. I don’t think you can expect brightness to be correct across the board with HDR. There’s also the guide athttp://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322. It’s old, but still mostly applicable. It has a similar section on HDR.


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## vagos1103gr1

It came up today a weird thing on my projector. I can’t take it of from the 2.35.1 Positi on. It cropped me the image in 16:9 movies. In aspect ratio is normal and all the other gray out. This happened even if I put applets straight connected to the projector.


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## vagos1103gr1

I updated the firmware to the latest 1.4


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## vagos1103gr1

Never mind I reset all the settings and came back in normal.


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## Bandyka

sddawson said:


> Really? So if the projector’s dynamic range setting is on Auto, and you feed it HDR it will recognise it and show HDR on the Info page? If you feed it SDR/REC709 it will recognise it and show SDR. But if your feed it SDR/REC709 what’s it going to show?


I am talking about SDR BT2020. as the name says it uses auto to detect dynamic range not color space so if you feed it standard dynamic range but wide color gamut it won't auto switch.


----------



## Werewolf79

sddawson said:


> I thought you said previously you were happy not calibrating gamma in HDR mode. I don’t think you should play with the custom gamma settings while actually in HDR mode. You should start with a normal 2.4 gamma, and the slider process takes over from there to produce 2084. If you calibrate gamma for your current slider position, it will just change if you move the slider. Don’t take all this as gospel. I’m pretty new to this too, and haven’t done HDR myself yet, just researched! But it’s what I understand.
> 
> The Chromapure manual has a brief section on HDR, with a suggestion of what patterns to use. I don’t think you can expect brightness to be correct across the board with HDR. There’s also the guide athttp://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322. It’s old, but still mostly applicable. It has a similar section on HDR.


Something is just plain wrong with the custom gamma, if it’s moved even slightly when set time HDR the image fails the contrast patterns and as one example clouds in the sky get massive posterisation, at least with my projector, I also do not get this issue with the Rec 709 custom gamma control which I had to get aggressive with to get decent gamma and 80 ire, 90 ire and 100 ire on Rec 709 cannot be failed in at all, they are very high.

-2 does not produce 2.4 gamma, it’s impossible and with HDR selected there is a different gamma produced, Chromapure lets you select HDR projector mode and will tell you the exact gamma needed for this mode, the gamma is very different to a standard 2.4 but the projector is not following it, it’s close at 10 ire, 20 ire and 30 ire then starts to go off course, I cannot calibrate it due to the custom gamma control issues and the brightness of colours is 90% down on every colour, hue and saturation can be calibrated perfectly, the slider does not help, the slider is at 6 and that’s where it needs to be for the picture to look correct but gamma is very off, this will cause issues, it has to.

If I select SDR/BT2020 I can calibrate the colours perfectly, hue, saturation, brightness and grayscale is 100% with only blue being a little bit down on the brightness of blue, but the major issue is the gamma, it is not good, which will present issues with footage, I checked and it does.

HDR/BT2020 gamma is also not right but the image appears normal despite the gamma looking like it’s off and not following the HDR curve, it seems okay but I know if gamma is not tracking then there has to be issues in the image and the fact the colour brightness is 90% down is bad, I do not understand why that is, why would colour brightness be 90% down?

I just don’t get it, I am doing everything right, the image looks fine on HDR mode but brightness of colours is down, I can see it in the spears and Munsil test demo footage when switching between SDR/BT2020 and HDR/BT2020 but SDR has other issues related to the gamma and image suffers, HDR image looks great but colour brightness is down, only hue and saturation is correct.

Where do I go from here, my dealer has not responded to mails, the projector is only eight days old.





switching


----------



## Werewolf79

I think Natural without filter was around 79% of P3 but with the filter it’s 101% for me, so the filter is best but with a 92 inch screen I can get away with medium lamp and digital cinema.


----------



## Bandyka

Werewolf79 said:


> Something is just plain wrong with the custom gamma, if it’s moved even slightly when set time HDR the image fails the contrast patterns and as one example clouds in the sky get massive posterisation, at least with my projector, I also do not get this issue with the Rec 709 custom gamma control which I had to get aggressive with to get decent gamma and 80 ire, 90 ire and 100 ire on Rec 709 cannot be failed in at all, they are very high.
> 
> -2 does not produce 2.4 gamma, it’s impossible and with HDR selected there is a different gamma produced, Chromapure lets you select HDR projector mode and will tell you the exact gamma needed for this mode, the gamma is very different to a standard 2.4 but the projector is not following it, it’s close at 10 ire, 20 ire and 30 ire then starts to go off course, I cannot calibrate it due to the custom gamma control issues and the brightness of colours is 90% down on every colour, hue and saturation can be calibrated perfectly, the slider does not help, the slider is at 6 and that’s where it needs to be for the picture to look correct but gamma is very off, this will cause issues, it has to.
> 
> If I select SDR/BT2020 I can calibrate the colours perfectly, hue, saturation, brightness and grayscale is 100% with only blue being a little bit down on the brightness of blue, but the major issue is the gamma, it is not good, which will present issues with footage, I checked and it does.
> 
> HDR/BT2020 gamma is also not right but the image appears normal despite the gamma looking like it’s off and not following the HDR curve, it seems okay but I know if gamma is not tracking then there has to be issues in the image and the fact the colour brightness is 90% down is bad, I do not understand why that is, why would colour brightness be 90% down?
> 
> I just don’t get it, I am doing everything right, the image looks fine on HDR mode but brightness of colours is down, I can see it in the spears and Munsil test demo footage when switching between SDR/BT2020 and HDR/BT2020 but SDR has other issues related to the gamma and image suffers, HDR image looks great but colour brightness is down, only hue and saturation is correct.
> 
> Where do I go from here, my dealer has not responded to mails, the projector is only eight days old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> switching


I'll read your whole post in detail later but you might be confused about HDR EOTF, its not gamma in a traditional sense, you cannot calibrate it. It starts to roll off as the projector does not have brightness to precisely follow it, this is how it it naturally.


----------



## Werewolf79

Bandyka said:


> I'll read your whole post in detail later but you might be confused about HDR EOTF, its not gamma in a traditional sense, you cannot calibrate it. It starts to roll off as the projector does not have brightness to precisely follow it, this is how it it naturally.


That would be true, and this projector would roll it off at 50 ire but the projector setting in the Panasonic sends 500 nits and the HD optimiser then works Too.


----------



## Bandyka

Werewolf79 said:


> That would be true, and this projector would roll it off at 50 ire but the projector setting in the Panasonic sends 500 nits and the HD optimiser then works Too.


You are confused, the player isn't sending 500 nits the PJ just isn't capable. The player is TONE MAPPING it to 500 nits that translates to probably around 50-70 nits actually displayed, it's very different.
You might need to read up on the fundamentals of EOTF and Dynamic Tone Mapping otherwise you'll be going in circles.


----------



## Werewolf79

88 nits is what I measure on my display.

I am not that confused I think, I know what is happening, the player is compressing the signal, let’s say the disc is 1000 nits, the Panasonic compresses this signal and that’s why i bought it, for the optimiser, yes tone mapping occurs but that’s not my problem, there Is a gamma curve for HDR, an ideal curve, the projector does not follow it but the image seems fine except for the brightness of colours.

I would love dynamic tone mapping on the projector, it seems to be working well for the JVC projectors.


----------



## sddawson

Bandyka said:


> I am talking about SDR BT2020. as the name says it uses auto to detect dynamic range not color space so if you feed it standard dynamic range but wide color gamut it won't auto switch.


I think we’re getting our wires crossed a little! In what way will wide color gamut not auto switch? If the projector receives bt2020, as far as I know, it will switch to that color space. Granted, it won’t switch the Color mode to something like Digital Cinema so that the filter is engaged, but even if you’re in Natural it will switch to bt2020 and display a decent percentage of P3. Or are we talking about different things?


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> Something is just plain wrong with the custom gamma, if it’s moved even slightly when set time HDR the image fails the contrast patterns and as one example clouds in the sky get massive posterisation, at least with my projector, I also do not get this issue with the Rec 709 custom gamma control which I had to get aggressive with to get decent gamma and 80 ire, 90 ire and 100 ire on Rec 709 cannot be failed in at all, they are very high.
> 
> -2 does not produce 2.4 gamma, it’s impossible and with HDR selected there is a different gamma produced, Chromapure lets you select HDR projector mode and will tell you the exact gamma needed for this mode, the gamma is very different to a standard 2.4 but the projector is not following it, it’s close at 10 ire, 20 ire and 30 ire then starts to go off course, I cannot calibrate it due to the custom gamma control issues and the brightness of colours is 90% down on every colour, hue and saturation can be calibrated perfectly, the slider does not help, the slider is at 6 and that’s where it needs to be for the picture to look correct but gamma is very off, this will cause issues, it has to.
> 
> If I select SDR/BT2020 I can calibrate the colours perfectly, hue, saturation, brightness and grayscale is 100% with only blue being a little bit down on the brightness of blue, but the major issue is the gamma, it is not good, which will present issues with footage, I checked and it does.
> 
> HDR/BT2020 gamma is also not right but the image appears normal despite the gamma looking like it’s off and not following the HDR curve, it seems okay but I know if gamma is not tracking then there has to be issues in the image and the fact the colour brightness is 90% down is bad, I do not understand why that is, why would colour brightness be 90% down?
> 
> I just don’t get it, I am doing everything right, the image looks fine on HDR mode but brightness of colours is down, I can see it in the spears and Munsil test demo footage when switching between SDR/BT2020 and HDR/BT2020 but SDR has other issues related to the gamma and image suffers, HDR image looks great but colour brightness is down, only hue and saturation is correct.
> 
> Where do I go from here, my dealer has not responded to mails, the projector is only eight days old.


Let’s start with sdr gamma. So you can’t get that reasonably well dialled in at the higher levels? Custom gamma is certainly tricky with the Epson, not least because it has less control points than a greyscale run in the software. But it usually can be done. Here’s an example of a low lamp gamma on mine:

1 0
2 -8
3 -15
4 -15
5 -15
6 -15
7 -17
8 -19

Yes, it has to be fairly aggressive, but works. The main problem is that some points affect more than one IRE, so it’s a very iterative, guesswork-ridden procedure. But you can get there. You must also make sure the adjustments are ”smooth”, and don’t see-saw up and down. That can lead to posterisation.

Now once you’ve got gamma as close as you can to 2.4, you’d use that setting for sdr/bt2020. But you’d have to do greyscale and gamma for your desired lamp power. Even with your screen, I’d guess that should be at least medium.

For HDR, try doing what I’ve said previously. Do a normal sdr 2.4 gamma, and then don’t fuss with gamma in HDR mode. Every slider position will have a different gamma curve, so there’s no point anyway. You’re not trying to achieve a single HDR curve like you might on other displays. I believe the projector applies the HDR curves assuming a 2.4 “base”. You just have to trust that Epson have implemented their tone mapping curves as best as possible, and it seems to do a very good job to me (and others). You can check how the tone mapping is working using the S&M dynamic range high patterns, and by looking at the horses scene. Are the horses a good brown colour, and can you see some of the background details?


----------



## Werewolf79

I can see background detail in the horse scene but the buffalo scene with the green fields ( is it buffalo I forget ) that one is slightly blown out in the fields when using custom gamma, anyways i will look at it again tomorrow probably.

Just so I know, when SDR/BT2020 it should be on SDR for both sections of dynamic range ?


----------



## Werewolf79

I don’t know how to edit posts here, I should add the slider cannot pull the buffalo field scene in either and the tree and lake/sky scene, tree to the left, that’s blown out too, that’s the gamma, but I have it on HDR and SDR signal, maybe that’s my mistake ?


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> I can see background detail in the horse scene but the buffalo scene with the green fields ( is it buffalo I forget ) that one is slightly blown out in the fields when using custom gamma, anyways i will look at it again tomorrow probably.
> 
> Just so I know, when SDR/BT2020 it should be on SDR for both sections of dynamic range ?





Werewolf79 said:


> I don’t know how to edit posts here, I should add the slider cannot pull the buffalo field scene in either and the tree and lake/sky scene, tree to the left, that’s blown out too, that’s the gamma, but I have it on HDR and SDR signal, maybe that’s my mistake ?


The Pana has carefully tone mapped your HDR disc into an SDR signal (albeit with wider colour gamut), under the assumption it has a 2.4 gamma. Yes, the dynamic range on the projector _must _be on SDR. In fact, pending my discussion with @Bandyka above, I can see no reason to take it off Auto. I don‘t understand what you mean by “both sections of dynamic range”. The top line lets you select from Auto, HDR and SDR, the second line tells you what’s actually being received. Auto will set the projector to what’s being received. The one time you might have to select it manually is if you’re using some patterns that are HDR, but those patterns don’t trigger the projector’s HDR mode automatically (it thinks it’s receiving SDR).

Your blown out scenes are absolutely because you have manually selected HDR. To reiterate, calibrate the projector to an SDR 2.4 gamma as closely as you can, and all will be well. Using the Option button on the Pana, you can get to a dynamic range conversion slider that lets you adjust the tone mapping conversion to taste If you wish.

And if you want to go the full HDR route, use your 2.4 gamma calibration, and don‘t try to adjust custom gamma any further with reference to HDR patterns. See how you go!


----------



## Bandyka

sddawson said:


> I think we’re getting our wires crossed a little! In what way will wide color gamut not auto switch? If the projector receives bt2020, as far as I know, it will switch to that color space. Granted, it won’t switch the Color mode to something like Digital Cinema so that the filter is engaged, but even if you’re in Natural it will switch to bt2020 and display a decent percentage of P3. Or are we talking about different things?


Yes we are, I was talking about picture profile so all good.

As for Werewolf I am pretty sure he is just confused as needs to do a crash course on how EOTF works. As for gamma 2.4 that seems to be a choice by Epson on these machines as even in the official review they say it cannot be calibrated to ,neither can mine, I used Madvr to compensate on the fly.

As for tone mapping one needs to stop thinking about it as HDR and handle it as SDR WCG I think this causes a lot of confusion.

I personally found that the HDR slider on the EPSON starting at 7-6 and down will cause washed out top end most of the time such as clouds so I just leave it at 8 and rarely nudge it to 7 when using Flight Sim as tone mapping cannot be used with it.


----------



## sddawson

Bandyka said:


> Yes we are, I was talking about picture profile so all good.
> 
> As for Werewolf I am pretty sure he is just confused as needs to do a crash course on how EOTF works. As for gamma 2.4 that seems to be a choice by Epson on these machines as even in the official review they say it cannot be calibrated to ,neither can mine, I used Madvr to compensate on the fly.
> 
> As for tone mapping one needs to stop thinking about it as HDR and handle it as SDR WCG I think this causes a lot of confusion.
> 
> I personally found that the HDR slider on the EPSON starting at 7-6 and down will cause washed out top end most of the time such as clouds so I just leave it at 8 and rarely nudge it to 7 when using Flight Sim as tone mapping cannot be used with it.


Ok, cool, that’s good then. I don’t think you should worry about eotf on these projectors - they’re different because of the slider implementation. I just don’t think you should calibrate to the HDR eotf at all. But I can pretty close to 2.4, although it’s just a bit “jagged”. I think there’s a lot of variation between units though. HDR slider at 8 certainly works well most of the time, but at least you have the option to brighten the picture, even if it does result in some blown out highlights sometimes.


----------



## Werewolf79

My projector just shut down with the status light and lamp light flashing, I say shut down, the fan was still running, I clicked the off button twice to shut it down and hope this is not some sort of issue after just owning the projector nine days now.

I now understand things better with EOTF and HDR after reading up on it, I think that’s why at 100% colours in HDR dynamic range mode the brightness is down 90% on those colours, they cannot go that high, if I measured at 40% I am willing to bet the brightness of the colours would be there.

I have looked at SDR/BT2020 and HDR/BT2020, I really prefer the image the HDR throws, the skin tones look great, the colours look very good, dark scenes, light scenes and everything in between looks good, I had Spider-Man on yesterday, the original Sam Raimi one, it’s a 10,000 nit disc, it looked excellent.

The only issue I see is on Netflix and Amazon, skin tones appear too red to me on the limited stuff I tried and black level looked wrong, discs look fine, does Netflix and Amazon do 4K differently ?

I am still going to try and calibrate a 2.4 SDR mode as I like tinkering, if the lamp comes back on, I will also calibrate 3D as I got an old pair of Samsung glasses I can use, although I have a DLP projector for 3D so it would need to go very bright, double the 3Ft lambert I get with the DLP, triple even before I swap out to the Epson for 3D, also DLP is crosstalk free even on the hardest of titles, and quite often reviewers use the easy discs to test projectors 3D


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## Bandyka

sddawson said:


> Ok, cool, that’s good then. I don’t think you should worry about eotf on these projectors - they’re different because of the slider implementation. I just don’t think you should calibrate to the HDR eotf at all. But I can pretty close to 2.4, although it’s just a bit “jagged”. I think there’s a lot of variation between units though. HDR slider at 8 certainly works well most of the time, but at least you have the option to brighten the picture, even if it does result in some blown out highlights sometimes.


Yeah agree one should leave HDR alone (except dial in grayscale of course) or use DTM. I only use native HDR for flight sim otherwise its madvr DTM.


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## amdar

My Epson 5050 brightness is fading out and the lamp hours are over 2000.The ELPLP89 is out of stock in EPSON website. Any recommendations on where to get the replacement lamp/bulb for 5050?


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## fredworld

amdar said:


> My Epson 5050 brightness is fading out and the lamp hours are over 2000.The ELPLP89 is out of stock in EPSON website. Any recommendations on where to get the replacement lamp/bulb for 5050?


Here you go:* https://www.myprojectorlamps.com/projector-bulbs/Epson/ELPLP89.html*
I got one a few weeks ago when they were having a 10% off sale on Epson lamps. Haven't tested it, yet, but it arrived looking intact. 6 month return policy


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## weaselorlando

I posted this in the screen area a while back an didn’t get any replies so I am posting it here. I want to replace my old ,dead, projector with a new one. My previous projector was the Infocus 7200. Probably replacing it with the Epson 6050. I have my Da-lite dropdown “High Contrast Cinema Vision” screen. I think it is a 1.3 gain screen. Not sure how this older technology screen material will pair with the newer projector. Any opinions? 
Thanks, Rich


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## Werewolf79

weaselorlando said:


> I posted this in the screen area a while back an didn’t get any replies so I am posting it here. I want to replace my old ,dead, projector with a new one. My previous projector was the Infocus 7200. Probably replacing it with the Epson 6050. I have my Da-lite dropdown “High Contrast Cinema Vision” screen. I think it is a 1.3 gain screen. Not sure how this older technology screen material will pair with the newer projector. Any opinions?
> Thanks, Rich


It should work just fine.

Has anyone got A Turtles Tale in 3D, fantastic pop out, great depth, one of the best 3D animated titles available.

So i calibrated 3D......It is telling me 10.5 ft lamberts, that’s great, very bright, I sit down with the old Samsung glasses I have, watched some of it, the depth isn’t there, the pop out is totally gone, there is a 3D effect, some depth but it’s nowhere near the depth on the DLP and the pop out is not there, so one of two things is happening, it’s a glasses issue or the projector does not do pop out effects at all.

Can anyone with that disc or any other that has great depth and pop out effects check and tell me if they get what is on the disc, if I need new glasses to recover the pop out then I will buy but first I need to know I can get it from this projector.

I calibrated SDR/BT2020, I used -2 gamma, and amazing, it worked this time, the gamma was solid, 2.2 to 2.3 throughout the range, maybe the lamp needed to age a little, now I will go back and redo the Natural mode for blu Ray and HDTV.

Please tell me pop out in 3D works on this projector and it’s just a glasses issue, I love the brightness of the image, three times what my DLP can do.


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## Zedekias

I'll be buying my receiver in the next couple of weeks. And I have kind of been all over the place debating between lower/mid denon models. Namely the s960h, x2600h/x2700h, and lastly the x3600h.

Am I correct in assuming that the 5050 can't utilize really any of the 2020 denon receiver video features? Hdr10+, hdmi 2.1, dynamic hdr, 8k etc etc.

So would it make more sense to purchase a x3600h for better audio features? Xt32, 105w, and another couple channels. I am wired for 7.2 but you never know.

My budget is around $500-800. I'd prefer to not waste money on video features if I can't even use them. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

Zedekias said:


> I'll be buying my receiver in the next couple of weeks. And I have kind of been all over the place debating between lower/mid denon models. Namely the s960h, x2600h/x2700h, and lastly the x3600h.
> 
> Am I correct in assuming that the 5050 can't utilize really any of the 2020 denon receiver video features? Hdr10+, hdmi 2.1, dynamic hdr, 8k etc etc.
> 
> So would it make more sense to purchase a x3600h for better audio features? Xt32, 105w, and another couple channels. I am wired for 7.2 but you never know.
> 
> My budget is around $500-800. I'd prefer to not waste money on video features if I can't even use them.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


You'd probably get some better feedback over in the Denon forum. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Zedekias

biglen said:


> You'd probably get some better feedback over in the Denon forum.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Apologize if that question is in the wrong spot. My thought process was trying to find the best bang for buck AVR for the 5050 specifically. I will ask the denon guys tho. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

Zedekias said:


> Apologize if that question is in the wrong spot. My thought process was trying to find the best bang for buck AVR for the 5050 specifically. I will ask the denon guys tho.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I'm not saying it's in the wrong spot, just that you'd get better input over there. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Werewolf79 said:


> It should work just fine.
> 
> Has anyone got A Turtles Tale in 3D, fantastic pop out, great depth, one of the best 3D animated titles available.
> 
> So i calibrated 3D......It is telling me 10.5 ft lamberts, that’s great, very bright, I sit down with the old Samsung glasses I have, watched some of it, the depth isn’t there, the pop out is totally gone, there is a 3D effect, some depth but it’s nowhere near the depth on the DLP and the pop out is not there, so one of two things is happening, it’s a glasses issue or the projector does not do pop out effects at all.
> 
> Can anyone with that disc or any other that has great depth and pop out effects check and tell me if they get what is on the disc, if I need new glasses to recover the pop out then I will buy but first I need to know I can get it from this projector.
> 
> I calibrated SDR/BT2020, I used -2 gamma, and amazing, it worked this time, the gamma was solid, 2.2 to 2.3 throughout the range, maybe the lamp needed to age a little, now I will go back and redo the Natural mode for blu Ray and HDTV.
> 
> Please tell me pop out in 3D works on this projector and it’s just a glasses issue, I love the brightness of the image, three times what my DLP can do.


I have five 3D discs: Alita, Pacific Rim, Gravity, The Walk and Edge of Tomorrow. All of them POP with a nice startle effect when the scenes call for it. Only Alita is real 3D but the others don't suffer in their 3D conversion. Sometimes distant objects have ghosts which can be ameliorated somewhat with judicious use of the projetor's 3D Depth control but I don't find it distracting unless I'm looking for it. Several guests have commented on the realism of The Walk's height effects, and more than one squirmed in their seat at various times. Gravity has an excellent sense of "space." The glasses I use are the Samsung SSG-4100GB.


----------



## Werewolf79

fredworld said:


> I have five 3D discs: Alita, Pacific Rim, Gravity, The Walk and Edge of Tomorrow. All of them POP with a nice startle effect when the scenes call for it. Only Alita is real 3D but the others don't suffer in their 3D conversion. Sometimes distant objects have ghosts which can be ameliorated somewhat with judicious use of the projetor's 3D Depth control but I don't find it distracting unless I'm looking for it. Several guests have commented on the realism of The Walk's height effects, and more than one squirmed in their seat at various times. Gravity has an excellent sense of "space." The glasses I use are the Samsung SSG-4100GB.


That’s the exact glasses I was using, zero pop out and depth was inferior, A Turtles Tale has amazing 3D and looked average, nothing came out of the screen. That’s why I am asking if this projector can do 3D pop out, maybe it’s a settings issue but I looked at the 3D settings, I could see nothing to affect screen pop out.


----------



## fredworld

Werewolf79 said:


> That’s the exact glasses I was using, zero pop out and depth was inferior, A Turtles Tale has amazing 3D and looked average, nothing came out of the screen. That’s why I am asking if this projector can do 3D pop out, maybe it’s a settings issue but I looked at the 3D settings, I could see nothing to affect screen pop out.


Are you getting the on-screen message that the glasses have registered? If so, what's the % of battery level?


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## Werewolf79

Oh I registered it, had to do that to calibrate, you can tell when it’s on, the blu Ray player message pops out but the actual 3D in the film is not doing that, just some depth, it’s very strange.


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> It should work just fine.
> 
> Has anyone got A Turtles Tale in 3D, fantastic pop out, great depth, one of the best 3D animated titles available.
> 
> So i calibrated 3D......It is telling me 10.5 ft lamberts, that’s great, very bright, I sit down with the old Samsung glasses I have, watched some of it, the depth isn’t there, the pop out is totally gone, there is a 3D effect, some depth but it’s nowhere near the depth on the DLP and the pop out is not there, so one of two things is happening, it’s a glasses issue or the projector does not do pop out effects at all.
> 
> Can anyone with that disc or any other that has great depth and pop out effects check and tell me if they get what is on the disc, if I need new glasses to recover the pop out then I will buy but first I need to know I can get it from this projector.
> 
> I calibrated SDR/BT2020, I used -2 gamma, and amazing, it worked this time, the gamma was solid, 2.2 to 2.3 throughout the range, maybe the lamp needed to age a little, now I will go back and redo the Natural mode for blu Ray and HDTV.
> 
> Please tell me pop out in 3D works on this projector and it’s just a glasses issue, I love the brightness of the image, three times what my DLP can do.


According to the manual, the Signal menu has options for 3D depth and screen size. Have you looked at those?


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> My projector just shut down with the status light and lamp light flashing, I say shut down, the fan was still running, I clicked the off button twice to shut it down and hope this is not some sort of issue after just owning the projector nine days now.
> 
> I now understand things better with EOTF and HDR after reading up on it, I think that’s why at 100% colours in HDR dynamic range mode the brightness is down 90% on those colours, they cannot go that high, if I measured at 40% I am willing to bet the brightness of the colours would be there.
> 
> I have looked at SDR/BT2020 and HDR/BT2020, I really prefer the image the HDR throws, the skin tones look great, the colours look very good, dark scenes, light scenes and everything in between looks good, I had Spider-Man on yesterday, the original Sam Raimi one, it’s a 10,000 nit disc, it looked excellent.
> 
> The only issue I see is on Netflix and Amazon, skin tones appear too red to me on the limited stuff I tried and black level looked wrong, discs look fine, does Netflix and Amazon do 4K differently ?
> 
> I am still going to try and calibrate a 2.4 SDR mode as I like tinkering, if the lamp comes back on, I will also calibrate 3D as I got an old pair of Samsung glasses I can use, although I have a DLP projector for 3D so it would need to go very bright, double the 3Ft lambert I get with the DLP, triple even before I swap out to the Epson for 3D, also DLP is crosstalk free even on the hardest of titles, and quite often reviewers use the easy discs to test projectors 3D


What are you using to play back Netflix and Amazon? I use an Apple TV, and have not noticed any real difference in regard to skin tones etc compared to disc. When playing back, check the Projector’s Info menu and double check what signal is being sent, to make sure it matches up with whatever preset/calibration you’re using.


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## platinum00

I started noticing a little grain in the picture on what seems to be just 4k content. My HDMI looks a little bent at the connector. I was going to replace that but wanted to check if anything else might cause this.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


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## Werewolf79

sddawson said:


> What are you using to play back Netflix and Amazon? I use an Apple TV, and have not noticed any real difference in regard to skin tones etc compared to disc. When playing back, check the Projector’s Info menu and double check what signal is being sent, to make sure it matches up with whatever preset/calibration you’re using.


I am using the Panasonic since it’s built in, that Netflix switch on the remote has been accidentally pressed a hundred times now when I was calibrating.

the 3D menu depth and screen size has no effect on a movie other than altering the depth artificially, I prefer to leave that alone, I think it may be the glasses, I see no reason that the pop out is not there but I need to hear from more people, it’s a big thread, maybe others can comment but it’s hard to read the entire thread.


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## xplorar

Werewolf79 said:


> That’s the exact glasses I was using, zero pop out and depth was inferior, A Turtles Tale has amazing 3D and looked average, nothing came out of the screen. That’s why I am asking if this projector can do 3D pop out, maybe it’s a settings issue but I looked at the 3D settings, I could see nothing to affect screen pop out.


If I am not mistaken, you still have your DLP? Please give that title a try again there; maybe its a perception thing?


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## fredworld

Werewolf79 said:


> Oh I registered it, had to do that to calibrate, you can tell when it’s on, the blu Ray player message pops out but the actual 3D in the film is not doing that, just some depth, it’s very strange.


If the registration shows <20% for the battery, change the battery with a new fresh one to see if that helps.
Try changing the "Inverse 3D Glasses" setting. The manual says in part, "...enable only if
using rear projection _*or if 3D images do not display correctly*_." (My emboldened italics)
"If the other solutions do not solve the problem, change the Inverse 3D Glasses setting on the Signal menu. Return the setting to its original value if changing it does not solve the problem as it can adversely affect the 3D image."

Check the 3D Format setting, mine is set to AUTO.

Be sure the Samsung 3D Glasses have its light lit. Sometimes my glasses disengage when the disc /Menu comes on.
Check these settings:
Color Mode: 3D Cinema
• 3D Brightness: Low
• 3D Depth: 0
• HDMI Video Range: Normal


----------



## Werewolf79

xplorar said:


> If I am not mistaken, you still have your DLP? Please give that title a try again there; maybe its a perception thing?


In a Turtles Tale, the pop out is aggressive, depth is also aggressive, 3D is superb, you have Turtles swimming a foot or two from your face, it’s not the sort of thing you forget.

I have ordered Hi-Shock 3D glasses from Amazon, they arrive tomorrow or Wednesday and I will check again, I bought a new battery for the Samsung and I would not have kept the Samsung anyways as they are not good at keeping light spill from entering the side of your head but I will inverse the 3D and try again tonight,


----------



## xplorar

@Werewolf79 You are not alone, see this post -


cky2354 said:


> Just need opinion on how good the 3D is on this Epson 5050ub. I finally got my Samsung Ssg-5100gb and got to try it out last night. I think it's decent performer but not as good as other DLP projectors I tried and also comparing to my LG 65" OLED passive 3D... it is not as good obviously. I wanted more 3D pop and used the 3D depth slider (goes from -10 to +10) and it really makes it better but at the same time have too much crosstalk and ghosting. I have to keep it at 0 or 1 to not see it. But when you do that, the 3D is not as good unfortunately.
> 
> Can anyone share their best settings for 3D and what has worked for you? I might still have to watch all my 3D movies on my OLED for now.


Not sure though because other users who made transition from DLP to Epson have said that they found 3D depth to be better in Epson.


----------



## Werewolf79

Werewolf79 said:


> In a Turtles Tale, the pop out is aggressive, depth is also aggressive, 3D is superb, you have Turtles swimming a foot or two from your face, it’s not the sort of thing you forget.
> 
> I have ordered Hi-Shock 3D glasses from Amazon, they arrive tomorrow or Wednesday and I will check again, I bought a new battery for the Samsung and I would not have kept the Samsung anyways as they are not good great at keeping light spill from entering the side of your head but I will inverse the 3D and try again tonight,





xplorar said:


> @Werewolf79 You are not alone, see this post -
> 
> 
> Not sure though because other users who made transition from DLP to Epson have said that they found 3D depth to be better in Epson.


To me that’s fake depth, I tried it yesterday on the Epson, I have tried that on other devices too and my DLP blu Ray player depth controls, the proper setting is always zero, it’s like when folks add too much sharpness, you get edge enhancement halo effects and it’s actually fake sharpness, I prefer calibrated and I should be seeing the same aggressive depth and pop out that I see on the DLP, there is no logical reason LCD tech can not do it, it will have more crosstalk In some films because panel response time is massively slower than DLP but it should be able to give what is on the disc.


----------



## xplorar

Werewolf79 said:


> To me that’s fake depth, I tried it yesterday on the Epson, I have tried that on other devices too and my DLP blu Ray player depth controls, the proper setting is always zero, it’s like when folks add too much sharpness, you get edge enhancement halo effects and it’s actually fake sharpness, I prefer calibrated and I should be seeing the same aggressive depth and pop out that I see on the DLP, there is no logical reason LCD tech can not do it, it will have more crosstalk In some films because panel response time is massively slower than DLP but it should be able to give what is on the disc.


You are not getting my point - The "real" 3D depth could actually be value greater than zero in Epson. Maybe 3D depth is deliberately reduced by Epson and marked as zero in Epson to avoid crosstalks in "default" settings. In that case, to make 3D depth comparable to DLP you will need to move the slider.


----------



## Werewolf79

xplorar said:


> You are not getting my point - The "real" 3D depth could actually be value greater than zero in Epson. Maybe 3D depth is deliberately reduced by Epson and marked as zero in Epson to avoid crosstalks in "default" settings. In that case, to make 3D depth comparable to DLP you will need to move the slider.


I will give it another go later, try more discs too, the opening credits to Comin’ At Ya and Hansel and Gretel Witch Hunters has good pop out and depth to them so I will try them too, many people try Avatar but that film was conservative in its use of 3D, the director James Cameron even said so.


----------



## richh

With the 5050UB's upscaling/pixel shifting capability, will I see much difference in picture quality between feeding it a 1080p signal vs a 4k signal? I recently upgraded my Panasonic AE3000u to the 5050UB and was wondering if I will benefit by upgrading to a 4K capable AV receiver as my current receiver does not pass through 4K.


----------



## Luminated67

richh said:


> With the 5050UB's upscaling/pixel shifting capability, will I see much difference in picture quality between feeding it a 1080p signal vs a 4k signal? I recently upgraded my Panasonic AE3000u to the 5050UB and was wondering if I will benefit by upgrading to a 4K capable AV receiver as my current receiver does not pass through 4K.


It really depends on the disc itself and whether it's a true 4K master or 2K which a lot of movies are. The difference is subtle but where I notice it most is the out of focus background, with 4K is calmer but what you will notice it the superior colours with the HDR disc. Oh and depending on your dynamic tonal mapping setup you might also see improvements else where, here the identical image from Close Encounters of the Third Kind, the top is 1080P and the bottom 4K HDR.
















Both look great with similar detail but the 4K has better shadow detail on my setup.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> It really depends on the disc itself and whether it's a true 4K master or 2K which a lot of movies are. The difference is subtle but where I notice it most is the out of focus background, with 4K is calmer but what you will notice it the superior colours with the HDR disc. Oh and depending on your dynamic tonal mapping setup you might also see improvements else where, here the identical image from Close Encounters of the Third Kind, the top is 1080P and the bottom 4K HDR.
> 
> View attachment 3050291
> View attachment 3050292
> 
> Both look great with similar detail but the 4K has better shadow detail on my setup.


I've been starting to notice the out of focus background lately. I've never noticed it before, until recently. Is this just something with our 5050s, or is it common with all projectors and TVs?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I've been starting to notice the out of focus background lately. I've never noticed it before, until recently. Is this just something with our 5050s, or is it common with all projectors and TVs?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Maybe you have just recently noticed it but it’s always been there, I find it more noticeable when the quality of the recording isn’t the best and this can go for both Blu rays and 4K discs.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Maybe you have just recently noticed it but it’s always been there, I find it more noticeable when the quality of the recording isn’t the best and this can go for both Blu rays and 4K discs.


I feel like I see it when watching Netflix. Would it do it on Netflix?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## 02fx4dude

Hi All,
As of last Tuesday I am the proud owner of an Epson 505UB projector, it replaces my 12 year old Panasonic AE1000, it served me well.

I grabbed calibration settings from Alaric to get up and running. Watched Nightmare on Elm Street (1984) blu ray over the weekend, big improvement over the AE1000, the brightness and contrast makes a big difference. Watched football yesterday and in higher ambient light it really is an improvement.

I will be doing a DIY calibration with an X-rite i1 display pro in the next week or two, question on calibration:
What do I need to turn on or off for the calibration? I assume "Auto Iris" should be turned off when calibrating in color modes that provide auto iris to be turned on. On that subject I see there is also a manual iris setting as well in some color modes, should I set this to middle setting for calibration? Any other settings to be aware of for brightness/contrast/grey scale?


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## Werewolf79

richh said:


> With the 5050UB's upscaling/pixel shifting capability, will I see much difference in picture quality between feeding it a 1080p signal vs a 4k signal? I recently upgraded my Panasonic AE3000u to the 5050UB and was wondering if I will benefit by upgrading to a 4K capable AV receiver as my current receiver does not pass through 4K.


I see no difference between a 1080p and 4k, other than colour or how the disc is encoded I don’t think the resolution differences can be seen on typical projector size screens, don’t let resolution alone sway your decision, I use a Panasonic 820 and feed audio to my 1080p only Yamaha Aventage receiver, I feed 4k signal directly to the Epson and I choose 1080p when viewing blu Ray instead of scaling to 4k, others do it differently.


----------



## Werewolf79

02fx4dude said:


> Hi All,
> As of last Tuesday I am the proud owner of an Epson 505UB projector, it replaces my 12 year old Panasonic AE1000, it served me well.
> 
> I grabbed calibration settings from Alaric to get up and running. Watched Nightmare on Elm Street (1984) blu ray over the weekend, big improvement over the AE1000, the brightness and contrast makes a big difference. Watched football yesterday and in higher ambient light it really is an improvement.
> 
> I will be doing a DIY calibration with an X-rite i1 display pro in the next week or two, question on calibration:
> What do I need to turn on or off for the calibration? I assume "Auto Iris" should be turned off when calibrating in color modes that provide auto iris to be turned on. On that subject I see there is also a manual iris setting as well in some color modes, should I set this to middle setting for calibration? Any other settings to be aware of for brightness/contrast/grey scale?


Set the manual iris for the light output you need, for blu ray between 14 ft lambert and 18 ft lambert is usually good, I have mine set at -16 for manual iris and get 16 ft lambert brightness in Eco, that’s how I calibrated it, at -16.

For UHD i suggest leaving at 0 as you need all the light output and medium lamp is good, high lamp is too noisy.


----------



## 02fx4dude

Werewolf79 said:


> Set the manual iris for the light output you need, for blu ray between 14 ft lambert and 18 ft lambert is usually good, I have mine set at -16 for manual iris and get 16 ft lambert brightness in Eco, that’s how I calibrated it, at -16.
> 
> For UHD i suggest leaving at 0 as you need all the light output and medium lamp is good, high lamp is too noisy.


Excellent! great information, thank you.


----------



## cky2354

xplorar said:


> @Werewolf79 You are not alone, see this post -
> 
> 
> Not sure though because other users who made transition from DLP to Epson have said that they found 3D depth to be better in Epson.


Whoa... where did you dig up that post? Must been when I first got my Epson 5050ub and tried it with the Samsung glasses for a terrible experience. Since then.... I got the Xpand X105-X1-RF and with some pictures settings, I get the best 3D that I have ever experienced.... it surpasses all the combo I have tried with the DLP projectors and they were all just okay. I really love the 3D on the Epson 5050ub... the pictures are brighter, the colors are betters, and even the 3D depth and pop is better with the Epson.


----------



## Werewolf79

cky2354 said:


> Whoa... where did you dig up that post? Must been when I first got my Epson 5050ub and tried it with the Samsung glasses for a terrible experience. Since then.... I got the Xpand X105-X1-RF and with some pictures settings, I get the best 3D that I have ever experienced.... it surpasses all the combo I have tried with the DLP projectors and they were all just okay. I really love the 3D on the Epson 5050ub... the pictures are brighter, the colors are betters, and even the 3D depth and pop is better with the Epson.


When you say pop do you mean pop out effects or just how good image depth is?


----------



## cky2354

Werewolf79 said:


> When you say pop do you mean pop out effects or just how good image depth is?


I think it would all depend on the 3D blu-ray or the medium itself don't you think? Not sure if you have any nwave titles such as Sammy's Adventure or Thunder and the Magic House... but those titles are on the A+++ list for major pop outs... and most recent releases from Marvel have tons of depth but not much pop outs so... I think it would just depend on what you were watching. I think Avatar to is still one of the top 3D movies for both.


----------



## Werewolf79

cky2354 said:


> I think it would all depend on the 3D blu-ray or the medium itself don't you think? Not sure if you have any nwave titles such as Sammy's Adventure or Thunder and the Magic House... but those titles are on the A+++ list for major pop outs... and most recent releases from Marvel have tons of depth but not much pop outs so... I think it would just depend on what you were watching. I think Avatar to is still one of the top 3D movies for both.


I have all the Nwave titles you mention, for me Avatar is too conservative with its use of 3D, Journey to the Center of the Earth came out the same year, used the same camera system and has better 3D.


----------



## xplorar

cky2354 said:


> Whoa... where did you dig up that post? Must been when I first got my Epson 5050ub and tried it with the Samsung glasses for a terrible experience. Since then.... I got the Xpand X105-X1-RF and with some pictures settings, I get the best 3D that I have ever experienced.... it surpasses all the combo I have tried with the DLP projectors and they were all just okay. I really love the 3D on the Epson 5050ub... the pictures are brighter, the colors are betters, and even the 3D depth and pop is better with the Epson.


LOL.. I know you now love 3D on your Epson, the point I was making was that playing with 3D settings may be required to to resolve this problem. If you too would have quit then you would have forever believed that "3D is bad on Epson". Can you share your 3D settings?


----------



## Werewolf79

The 3D is fine, i resolved the issue, when I was calibrating I had to set 2D to 3D in the player I used to get the calibration disc patterns up, it was on that setting when I tried to watch, no wonder it looked like there was a small amount of depth only.

So I have tested and it looks very good, I didn’t notice any major crosstalk Issues and the depth and pop out is now there too, now I need to see if these Hi Shock glasses I ordered are any good, if not I will return them and try Xpand, the prices are about the same.


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> I've been starting to notice the out of focus background lately. I've never noticed it before, until recently. Is this just something with our 5050s, or is it common with all projectors and TVs?
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk





Luminated67 said:


> Maybe you have just recently noticed it but it’s always been there, I find it more noticeable when the quality of the recording isn’t the best and this can go for both Blu rays and 4K discs.


Presuming that one is watching a reasonably proper representation of the original movie, I think what you're noticing are the effects that a lens or film choce of the cinematographer or director has. Some choose certain lenses to emphasize near field vs far field focus, others choose post-production effects to bring different levels of clarity to back ground scenes. At times, reshoots are done of the same scene with different equipment for parts of the frame so that characters are all in focus at different depths of field so that actors' reactions can appear to be captured at the same time for effect. I wouldn't make any judgements about our home entertainment equipment based on such observations. Having said all that, I think most of us in this thread have screens larger than the typical panel HDTV and thus more information in a frame is apparent. The larger the screen, the more the eye might tend to wander away from the intended action. Well, that's IMHO.


----------



## Werewolf79

It’s normal for the background to be out of focus in some scenes in a cinematic film, if you are into photography you will know we try to achieve this with certain pictures we take too, if that is what is being seen.


----------



## wookiegr

You want to see out of focus backgrounds, watch Star Trek the Motion Picture.


----------



## fredworld

Werewolf79, I'm glad you worked out your 3D issues. I hope the Turtles can now crawl all over your room.🐢


----------



## Werewolf79

wookiegr said:


> You want to see out of focus backgrounds, watch Star Trek the Motion Picture.


I wish I could watch the directors cut on UHD or at the very least a good blu Ray, I still love that first look at the new enterprise with Jerry Goldsmiths fabulous music score playing.

Thanks Fred, will do more testing and calibration when the new glasses arrive soon.


----------



## amdar

Thank you.


fredworld said:


> Here you go:* https://www.myprojectorlamps.com/projector-bulbs/Epson/ELPLP89.html*
> I got one a few weeks ago when they were having a 10% off sale on Epson lamps. Haven't tested it, yet, but it arrived looking intact. 6 month return policy


----------



## rccurr

I have had my 5050ub for a few months now, first projector coming from a 65” LG OLED. Have it paired with a Elunevision Aurora 135” ALR screen and was very pleased with the switch. A couple days ago the projector suddenly stopped projecting, lense cover closed, fan kicked into high and lights on projector started flashing which upon checking the manual, indicated an auto iris error and to contact Epson. Reading between the lines, I knew it wouldn’t be a good outcome, which was confirmed when I contacted Epson and told they would have to replace the projector. Not good after only 127 hrs. Having had my projector ISF calibrated (I know you should put some time on it before calibration, but logistics dictated otherwise), I tried to get some compensation for my loss, like a extra lamp, but to no avail. Repair was not an option, at least here in Canada. Even had the supervisor I spoke to ask me why I would want to calibrate my projector. I know the calibration is not Epson’s issue, but it would have gone a long way for customer satisfaction had they made some gesture like the extra lamp to acknowledge the financial loss associated with the calibration. Hopefully my replacement unit lasts longer. Will put some time in before deciding whether to get it calibrated again.


----------



## fredworld

rccurr said:


> I have had my 5050ub for a few months now, first projector coming from a 65” LG OLED. Have it paired with a Elunevision Aurora 135” ALR screen and was very pleased with the switch. A couple days ago the projector suddenly stopped projecting, lense cover closed, fan kicked into high and lights on projector started flashing which upon checking the manual, indicated an auto iris error and to contact Epson. Reading between the lines, I knew it wouldn’t be a good outcome, which was confirmed when I contacted Epson and told they would have to replace the projector. Not good after only 127 hrs. Having had my projector ISF calibrated (I know you should put some time on it before calibration, but logistics dictated otherwise), I tried to get some compensation for my loss, like a extra lamp, but to no avail. Repair was not an option, at least here in Canada. Even had the supervisor I spoke to ask me why I would want to calibrate my projector. I know the calibration is not Epson’s issue, but it would have gone a long way for customer satisfaction had they made some gesture like the extra lamp to acknowledge the financial loss associated with the calibration. Hopefully my replacement unit lasts longer. Will put some time in before deciding whether to get it calibrated again.


Really sorry to read of your incident. Hopefully, you'll be back up and running soon. If you're not already aware, for an initial down and dirty calibration just get the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark* disc. Have a study of the articles on their website and use 4 or 5 patterns on the disc in the SDR Rec709 section for Contrast, Brightness, Color, Geometry for starters, then you can progress from there as the lamp ages before hiring a calibration tech for hundreds of $$$. I've posted here in the past that this disc is the best $40 I invested in my Epson 5050UB. Good luck with the new unit.


----------



## WynsWrld98

5040UB owner here my warranty is expiring fairly soon. I don't feel comfortable having a projector out of warranty. 

Has anyone heard anything about Epson offering 5050UB refurbs? Or any rumors of a 5060UB? I just looked up that the 5050UB started shipping April 9, 2019 so if they use a 2 year cycle perhaps a 5060UB April 2021. I'm thinking they'll want a projector with frame by frame HDR optimization like what JVC and Sony now have.


----------



## Luminated67

WynsWrld98 said:


> 5040UB owner here my warranty is expiring fairly soon. I don't feel comfortable having a projector out of warranty.
> 
> Has anyone heard anything about Epson offering 5050UB refurbs? Or any rumors of a 5060UB? I just looked up that the 5050UB started shipping April 9, 2019 so if they use a 2 year cycle perhaps a 5060UB April 2021. I'm thinking they'll want a projector with frame by frame HDR optimization like what JVC and Sony now have.


Only JVC offer proper DTM with frame by frame, I do t know what Sony does but it definitely isn’t that.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Luminated67 said:


> Only JVC offer proper DTM with frame by frame, I do t know what Sony does but it definitely isn’t that.


I would think Epson would want to add this capability to one of their competing projectors perhaps a 5060UB.


----------



## Luminated67

WynsWrld98 said:


> I would think Epson would want to add this capability to one of their competing projectors perhaps a 5060UB.


I would love for this to be added, I would imagine that they would have to up the computing power of the current 5050 to do this though as I would have thought if it were an option they would have introduced it in a similar manner to JVC. I think the replacement when it comes will Native 4K because that's the next logical step but when this might happen is anyone's guess, I do know that back in 2016 some dealers got to see a native 4K projector which was in the size of a consumer projector so there's no doubt it's in the works.


----------



## Bandyka

Luminated67 said:


> I would love for this to be added, I would imagine that they would have to up the computing power of the current 5050 to do this though as I would have thought if it were an option they would have introduced it in a similar manner to JVC. I think the replacement when it comes will Native 4K because that's the next logical step but when this might happen is anyone's guess, I do know that back in 2016 some dealers got to see a native 4K projector which was in the size of a consumer projector so there's no doubt it's in the works.


Not much of a chance for it to happen as even the Sony X1 chips don't have the proper setup to do it. Only JVC nailed it, very smart move. Future gen EPSON will hovewer most likely have it too.


----------



## Luminated67

Bandyka said:


> Not much of a chance for it to happen as even the Sony X1 chips don't have the proper setup to do it. Only JVC nailed it, very smart move. Future gen EPSON will hovewer most likely have it too.


I think frame by frame the only option to deal with HDR effectively, especially if they can’t agree on a standardised level so yes the logically expectation is Epson to include it in a future model.

I am actually surprised Epson haven’t given us a replacement for their LS range, in my opinion a replacement for it that included Native 4K would have been the best way to introduce 4K proper to the Epson range. Native 4K is more expensive so it’s logical to use its most expensive model to introduce it, something that already commands a premium price point.


----------



## Bandyka

Luminated67 said:


> I think frame by frame the only option to deal with HDR effectively, especially if they can’t agree on a standardised level so yes the logically expectation is Epson to include it in a future model.
> 
> I am actually surprised Epson haven’t given us a replacement for their LS range, in my opinion a replacement for it that included Native 4K would have been the best way to introduce 4K proper to the Epson range. Native 4K is more expensive so it’s logical to use its most expensive model to introduce it, something that already commands a premium price point.


Yes frame by frame is a must but again that's why you need madvr so it makes no difference what PJ you use. I loved my LS back in the day but it had is limitations, I moved to the JVC X9500 from there and it was a no question utter annihilation due to sheer contrast. DTM on the X9500 is PJ po...rn. The 9400 is a sweet in between but only because I use Madvr DTM. Its being sold however and will be temporarily replaced by an OLED until I make up my mind where to go next. I am very much hoping EPSON will SOON come out with new native DTM capable high contrast beast. They have the parts to do it for sure.

my secret wish have always been a love child of the LS and the 9500.


----------



## Luminated67

Bandyka said:


> Yes frame by frame is a must but again that's why you need madvr so it makes no difference what PJ you use. I loved my LS back in the day but it had is limitations, I moved to the JVC X9500 from there and it was a no question utter annihilation due to sheer contrast. DTM on the X9500 is PJ po...rn. The 9400 is a sweet in between but only because I use Madvr DTM. Its being sold however and will be temporarily replaced by an OLED until I make up my mind where to go next. I am very much hoping EPSON will SOON come out with new native DTM capable high contrast beast. They have the parts to do it for sure.
> 
> my secret wish have always been a love child of the LS and the 9500.


The x9500 is surely the pinnacle in PJ quality, why did you end up selling it?


----------



## Bandyka

Luminated67 said:


> The x9500 is surely the pinnacle in PJ quality, why did you end up selling it?


Overseas relocation, been regretting it ever since. There isn't a single PJ that satisfies me since. I am being offered an X5500 now but not sure it would be an upgrade over the 9400.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Bandyka said:


> Yes frame by frame is a must but again that's why you need madvr so it makes no difference what PJ you use. I loved my LS back in the day but it had is limitations, I moved to the JVC X9500 from there and it was a no question utter annihilation due to sheer contrast. DTM on the X9500 is PJ po...rn. The 9400 is a sweet in between but only because I use Madvr DTM. Its being sold however and will be temporarily replaced by an OLED until I make up my mind where to go next. I am very much hoping EPSON will SOON come out with new native DTM capable high contrast beast. They have the parts to do it for sure.
> 
> my secret wish have always been a love child of the LS and the 9500.


I've read about setting up Madvr but it looks like a royal pain in the a** for someone who doesn't want to tinker plus requires a pretty expensive video card to really use its capabilities


----------



## Bandyka

WynsWrld98 said:


> I've read about setting up Madvr but it looks like a royal pain in the a** for someone who doesn't want to tinker plus requires a pretty expensive video card to really use its capabilities


yes that's the general perception of those who have never seen it. The reality is its set and forget and can be used on an average PC.

as is with anything in this world "no pain no gain"


----------



## WynsWrld98

Bandyka said:


> yes that's the general perception of those who have never seen it. The reality is its set and forget and can be used on an average PC.
> 
> as is with anything in this world "no pain no gain"


I've read articles step by step setup and was very confused and I'm a software developer.


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## Bandyka

Not sure what to say, I am in IT. Very straight forward to me however I never read instruction I just figure it out


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## Luminated67

WynsWrld98 said:


> I've read articles step by step setup and was very confused and I'm a software developer.


Thats the reason I haven’t yet dipped my toe in it, I’m not at all computer savvy and though my brother is there will come a point where he will walk away because it’s too much hassle for him that I’m needing so much help.

Ideally I want a system that I press a couple of buttons in a menu and job done, even if it’s a bit of a compromise over MadVR or a Lumagen for an easy life that will suit me.


----------



## Bandyka

Luminated67 said:


> Thats the reason I haven’t yet dipped my toe in it, I’m not at all computer savvy and though my brother is there will come a point where he will walk away because it’s too much hassle for him that I’m needing so much help.
> 
> Ideally I want a system that I press a couple of buttons in a menu and job done, even if it’s a bit of a compromise over MadVR or a Lumagen for an easy life that will suit me.


You guys are naturally scared of the unknown, its human nature. Once your realize its really nothing and set and forget you will wonder what was all the fuss about why you haven't done it years ago, just the way it goes every time. To me its a whole lot more hassle to load a disc wait for it screw around with it etc, HTPC always on, two mouse clicks beer open and enjoy.

Wish I had the time to help you out more. Perhaps I'll just post screenshots of my settings that you can simply copy and off you go, literally 2-3 minutes of setup max.


----------



## biglen

WynsWrld98 said:


> I've read about setting up Madvr but it looks like a royal pain in the a** for someone who doesn't want to tinker plus requires a pretty expensive video card to really use its capabilities


You don't have to "tinker" with it, once you set it up. You set it, and forget it. Also, what do you consider "pretty expensive"? You spent $3k on a projector, so what's $300-$350 for a video card, that makes the $3k projector even better???

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Superman2

biglen said:


> You don't have to "tinker" with it, once you set it up. You set it, and forget it. Also, what do you consider "pretty expensive"? You spent $3k on a projector, so what's $300-$350 for a video card, that makes the $3k projector even better???
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Do you have a link to someplace that dumbs it down? Like “here’s the htpc specs you need, here’s the Madvr settings, go” kinda thing? I’ve been to the thread and honestly my head hurts reading it, lol. I had given up on HDR for pj but willing to try easy solutions. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

Like with any threads on here and any forums its a bloody information jungle and a real hassle to extract essential info. let me try and sum it up for you guys and make it a sticky somehow.


----------



## biglen

Superman2 said:


> Do you have a link to someplace that dumbs it down? Like “here’s the htpc specs you need, here’s the Madvr settings, go” kinda thing? I’ve been to the thread and honestly my head hurts reading it, lol. I had given up on HDR for pj but willing to try easy solutions.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I felt the same way as you, that it was very overwhelming. Once I dove in, it's actually pretty easy. The guys in the MadVR forum in here, are VERY helpful. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

The setup I use:

The player is Jriver, it has a built in option that simply auto downloads madvr when enabled (called Red October) and that's it you have it working nothing more to do.
If you want to go deeper with the above enabled it simply creates an always on demand icon in the system tray next to the clock in Windows, right click on that to open the advanced settings of Madvr, there you can go as mad as you want or leave all on auto, either way you can't go wrong. I used a GPU as simple as a Geforce 1660 that handled 1080p maxed out or a 1080ti that handled 4K maxed out or a sweet spot RTX 2060 that handles pretty much all but the highest 4K settings. I will post my settings as well for DTM and you'll see how simple and easy it is. That's, it nothing magical about it. And it's free! It's gonna make your 3K projector look like 3 times the price. Trust me you will be asking why you haven't done it earlier, that is the general response from all user I know all across the universe. Enjoy.


----------



## biglen

Bandyka said:


> The setup I use:
> 
> The player is Jriver, it has a built in option that simply auto downloads madvr when enabled (called Red October) and that's it you have it working nothing more to do.
> If you want to go deeper with the above enabled it simply creates an always on demand icon in the system tray next to the clock in Windows, right click on that to open the advanced settings of Madvr, there you can go as mad as you want or leave all on auto, either way you can't go wrong. I used a GPU as simple as a Geforce 1660 that handled 1080p maxed out or a 1080ti that handled 4K maxed out or a sweet spot RTX 2060 that handles pretty much all but the highest 4K settings. I will post my settings as well for DTM and you'll see how simple and easy it is. That's, it nothing magical about it. And it's free! It's gonna make your 3K projector look like 3 times the price. Trust me you will be asking why you haven't done it earlier, that is the general response from all user I know all across the universe. Enjoy.


I'm using a 2060 Super, with pretty high settings. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

Regarding Madvr won't work with HDR streaming from places like Netflix. Projector manufacturers including frame by frame HDR optimization is the way to go works for any source including streaming no need to buy and setup a HTPC with Madvr. The comment about spending a few hundred for a video card is silly you need the rest of a HTPC as well plus likely noise issues from it, etc.


----------



## Bandyka

I refuse to watch any streaming or TV. Subpar audio and very often compressed bitstarved video.
Madvr setup is for proper content.


----------



## biglen

WynsWrld98 said:


> Regarding Madvr won't work with HDR streaming from places like Netflix. Projector manufacturers including frame by frame HDR optimization is the way to go works for any source including streaming no need to buy and setup a HTPC with Madvr. The comment about spending a few hundred for a video card is silly you need the rest of a HTPC as well plus likely noise issues from it, etc.


You were the one who mentioned only having to get an "expensive" card. You never said anything about the rest of a HTPC, so I assumed you had a PC laying around that could be used. The GPU is 95% of a MadVR setup, so you don't need anything elaborate. A $75-$100 used PC would do the job, with a good GPU. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kbergman

New 5050UB owner here. Upgraded from a 10 year old 8350. Loving it so far.

I noticed today that there seems to be dust behind the front lens. Can see it very clearly on the lens but no noticeable at all on actual projected image. Whenever I saw this on the 8350 I’d just wipe down the lens and it was gone, but not the case with the 5050. What I also noticed is as it’s projecting and I look up at the light emitting it looks as if the fan is pulling dust directly into the front lens area. Is this normal operation? Can it be cleaned out easily?

Thank you!


----------



## Bandyka

biglen said:


> You were the one who mentioned only having to get an "expensive" card. You never said anything about the rest of a HTPC, so I assumed you had a PC laying around that could be used. The GPU is 95% of a MadVR setup, so you don't need anything elaborate. A $75-$100 used PC would do the job, with a good GPU.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Any old PC is suitable as long as the video is semi decent for a basic setup, I don't know anyone without at least an old PC. I am tired of convincing the naysayers who have never experienced it. If they keep coming back with excuses let them be, its genuinely their loss. we know just know what we are seeing and how satisfied we are end of story.


----------



## biglen

Bandyka said:


> Any old PC is suitable as long as the video is semi decent for a basic setup, I don't know anyone without at least an old PC. I am tired of convincing the naysayers who have never experienced it. If they keep coming back with excuses let them be, its genuinely their loss. we know just know what we are seeing and how satisfied we are end of story.


I hear ya. They spend $3k on a projector, and complain that $400 for a HTPC is too much, and then call ME silly?????

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Bandyka

biglen said:


> I hear ya. They spend $3k on a projector, and complain that $400 for a HTPC is too much, and then call ME silly?????
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yeah but they also talk about a Lumagen that cost 2x the PJ


----------



## platinum00

It could be my old setup but I did some quick testing and I cant tell a difference between shield, j-river and j-river with madvr enabled. I found some old hardware using a GT610 card, 6GB ram. Also, no settings changes in j-river or madvr. Just whatever happens out of the box.

By the way, the jiver and madvr setup is install and change video quality settings. Cant get any easier.


----------



## noob00224

Kbergman said:


> New 5050UB owner here. Upgraded from a 10 year old 8350. Loving it so far.
> 
> I noticed today that there seems to be dust behind the front lens. Can see it very clearly on the lens but no noticeable at all on actual projected image. Whenever I saw this on the 8350 I’d just wipe down the lens and it was gone, but not the case with the 5050. What I also noticed is as it’s projecting and I look up at the light emitting it looks as if the fan is pulling dust directly into the front lens area. Is this normal operation? Can it be cleaned out easily?
> 
> Thank you!


Read this thread:








Should you clean a projector lens?


I've had an Epson 8350 for many years. This picture doesn't show just how bad it is, but the lens itself has a film over it with dust. I've never cleaned it because I heard at one time you shouldn't touch the lens even if it appeared dirty. I'm not sure if that is still the case. Is it ok to...




www.avsforum.com







platinum00 said:


> It could be my old setup but I did some quick testing and I cant tell a difference between shield, j-river and j-river with madvr enabled. I found some old hardware using a GT610 card, 6GB ram. Also, no settings changes in j-river or madvr. Just whatever happens out of the box.
> 
> By the way, the jiver and madvr setup is install and change video quality settings. Cant get any easier.


The words madvr and out of the box should not be in the same sentence. This is what I thought as well when compared it with VLC.
Madvr has a lot of features that have to be understood before using them.


----------



## joms

Hi,

I just installed my Epson 6050UB (TW9400) and my 130" projector screen (white). May I know if I should do some calibration next to get the most out of my projector or is the default good enough? Is there any link I can have to teach me this things? Do i need to turn up the brightness? contrast? etc? I watch via netflix and youtube from my amazon firestick 4k. I will be buying an nvidia shield soon or maybe the upcoming appletv. 


Thanks.


----------



## joms

Bandyka said:


> The setup I use:
> 
> The player is Jriver, it has a built in option that simply auto downloads madvr when enabled (called Red October) and that's it you have it working nothing more to do.
> If you want to go deeper with the above enabled it simply creates an always on demand icon in the system tray next to the clock in Windows, right click on that to open the advanced settings of Madvr, there you can go as mad as you want or leave all on auto, either way you can't go wrong. I used a GPU as simple as a Geforce 1660 that handled 1080p maxed out or a 1080ti that handled 4K maxed out or a sweet spot RTX 2060 that handles pretty much all but the highest 4K settings. I will post my settings as well for DTM and you'll see how simple and easy it is. That's, it nothing magical about it. And it's free! It's gonna make your 3K projector look like 3 times the price. Trust me you will be asking why you haven't done it earlier, that is the general response from all user I know all across the universe. Enjoy.


Will Madvr work with netflix and youtube? I only watch from those 2 sources 99% of the time. If so, maybe i can try to learn how to do it. I think my computer may be able to handle it (amd 3900x/32GB ram/ 2070super/ etc)


----------



## biglen

joms said:


> Will Madvr work with netflix and youtube? I only watch from those 2 sources 99% of the time. If so, maybe i can try to learn how to do it. I think my computer may be able to handle it (amd 3900x/32GB ram/ 2070super/ etc)


No, it doesn't work with streaming services. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Crazy Otto

Has anyone compared the 5050UB against something like the 3200/3800? I’ve been on quite the ride with deciding on a projector. Started with TK850, found the darks too grey and washed out, then got the Ht3550 and darks are great, colors pop, but it’s a bit dim, then yesterday got the 3200 from Epson. First off, the 3D color and contrast was best I have seen, even in spite of some crosstalk and that I can see the pixels compared to the Ht3550. But in 2D the Epson 3200 blacks are pretty poor, and colors don’t pop as much as the BenQ HT3550.

I’m wondering if the 5050ub improves on the 3200 in these ways. Is crosstalk less on the 5050? It’s there on the 3200, but I could overlook it... but in 2D it’s just not nearly as pleasant as the HT3550. I assume the 5050 blows the HT3550 away in HDR and SDR 4K and 1080p content?

I’m at the point where I may send everything back and wait for a deal on a 5050. I kept my last projector for 10 years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Crazy Otto said:


> Has anyone compared the 5050UB against something like the 3200/3800? I’ve been on quite the ride with deciding on a projector. Started with TK850, found the darks too grey and washed out, then got the Ht3550 and darks are great, colors pop, but it’s a bit dim, then yesterday got the 3200 from Epson. First off, the 3D color and contrast was best I have seen, even in spite of some crosstalk and that I can see the pixels compared to the Ht3550. But in 2D the Epson 3200 blacks are pretty poor, and colors don’t pop as much as the BenQ HT3550.
> 
> I’m wondering if the 5050ub improves on the 3200 in these ways. Is crosstalk less on the 5050? It’s there on the 3200, but I could overlook it... but in 2D it’s just not nearly as pleasant as the HT3550. I assume the 5050 blows the HT3550 away in HDR and SDR 4K and 1080p content?
> 
> I’m at the point where I may send everything back and wait for a deal on a 5050. I kept my last projector for 10 years.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk











Epson 3800 or Epson 5050UB? Non Light Controlled Room


Hi - I'm about to pull the trigger on a projector. I feel the Epson 3800 projector is the best fit for me, but after reading all the reviews and watching Youtube, it's clear the 5050UB is the "better" projector. However, my room is not a theater room. The ceiling is white. The walls will be...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Luminated67

Crazy Otto said:


> Has anyone compared the 5050UB against something like the 3200/3800? I’ve been on quite the ride with deciding on a projector. Started with TK850, found the darks too grey and washed out, then got the Ht3550 and darks are great, colors pop, but it’s a bit dim, then yesterday got the 3200 from Epson. First off, the 3D color and contrast was best I have seen, even in spite of some crosstalk and that I can see the pixels compared to the Ht3550. But in 2D the Epson 3200 blacks are pretty poor, and colors don’t pop as much as the BenQ HT3550.
> 
> I’m wondering if the 5050ub improves on the 3200 in these ways. Is crosstalk less on the 5050? It’s there on the 3200, but I could overlook it... but in 2D it’s just not nearly as pleasant as the HT3550. I assume the 5050 blows the HT3550 away in HDR and SDR 4K and 1080p content?
> 
> I’m at the point where I may send everything back and wait for a deal on a 5050. I kept my last projector for 10 years.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You REALLY need to see it in person to be able to answer your questions because everyone sees things differently or should I say notices things differently. 

One thing you will notice is black being way better, but if you see the pixels then I very much doubt the 5050 will improve on that, out of curiosity how close are you sitting and what size is the screen because I can't see them on my 112" scope screen from 9 foot away.


----------



## Crazy Otto

Luminated67 said:


> You REALLY need to see it in person to be able to answer your questions because everyone sees things differently or should I say notices things differently.
> 
> One thing you will notice is black being way better, but if you see the pixels then I very much doubt the 5050 will improve on that, out of curiosity how close are you sitting and what size is the screen because I can't see them on my 112" scope screen from 9 foot away.


I’m sitting about 12 feet from 130 16x9. I have very good eyesight, and I can just tell in rare situations the resolution isn’t as high as the BenQ. I wonder if this can be tweaked with settings though to minimize.

Really the biggest drawback with the 3800 was the colors weren’t as vibrant as on the the 3550 and the darks weren’t as good either. The 3D had more punch and contrast and even in spite of crosstalk here and there. I wonder if lower lumens would minimize crosstalk in the 5050 and then it’d also have better color in 2d. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Crazy Otto said:


> I’m sitting about 12 feet from 130 16x9. I have very good eyesight, and I can just tell in rare situations the resolution isn’t as high as the BenQ. I wonder if this can be tweaked with settings though to minimize.
> 
> Really the biggest drawback with the 3800 was the colors weren’t as vibrant as on the the 3550 and the darks weren’t as good either. The 3D had more punch and contrast and even in spite of crosstalk here and there. I wonder if lower lumens would minimize crosstalk in the 5050 and then it’d also have better color in 2d.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You must have seriously good eyesight, the brother got his eyes laser correction done and he’s beyond 20-20 vision he can’t see the pixels until he’s about 5ft from my screen.

Colour saturation is real easy to adjust but not very natural looking, you’ll find that once you get your projector professionally calibrated it will appear a little lifeless by comparison but the reality is you are seeing things properly for the first, does takes a bit of time to adjust but worth it in the long run.


----------



## Bandyka

I can see the pixels from 3 meters away in 4K mode easy.


----------



## Luminated67

Bandyka said:


> I can see the pixels from 3 meters away in 4K mode easy.


I must need new glasses. LOL


----------



## rekbones

Crazy Otto said:


> I’m sitting about 12 feet from 130 16x9. I have very good eyesight, and I can just tell in rare situations the resolution isn’t as high as the BenQ. I wonder if this can be tweaked with settings though to minimize.
> 
> Really the biggest drawback with the 3800 was the colors weren’t as vibrant as on the the 3550 and the darks weren’t as good either. The 3D had more punch and contrast and even in spite of crosstalk here and there. I wonder if lower lumens would minimize crosstalk in the 5050 and then it’d also have better color in 2d.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


First did you have the 3200 or the 3800 as you mention both in your post? From tests the 3800 has much better contrast then the 3200 so it makes a big difference. Second you say the blacks were worse on the 3200 then the 3550 and that also sounds odd. By chance are you viewing in an all white room? The brighter 3200/3800 in bright APL scenes in a white room will wash out the picture destroying your black and vibrant colors. The BenQ is much dimmer and the white room will have a little lesser impact. The 5050 will washout almost as bad in a white room.


----------



## Crazy Otto

Luminated67 said:


> I must need new glasses. LOL


Ha I do have better than 2020 vision according to vision dr. It’s not terrible, but in certain situations like the paramount logo at the beginning of a movie I can see it on the text. No deal breaker tho 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Unkabin

Crazy Otto said:


> Has anyone compared the 5050UB against something like the 3200/3800? I’ve been on quite the ride with deciding on a projector. Started with TK850, found the darks too grey and washed out, then got the Ht3550 and darks are great, colors pop, but it’s a bit dim, then yesterday got the 3200 from Epson. First off, the 3D color and contrast was best I have seen, even in spite of some crosstalk and that I can see the pixels compared to the Ht3550. But in 2D the Epson 3200 blacks are pretty poor, and colors don’t pop as much as the BenQ HT3550.
> 
> I’m wondering if the 5050ub improves on the 3200 in these ways. Is crosstalk less on the 5050? It’s there on the 3200, but I could overlook it... but in 2D it’s just not nearly as pleasant as the HT3550. I assume the 5050 blows the HT3550 away in HDR and SDR 4K and 1080p content?
> 
> I’m at the point where I may send everything back and wait for a deal on a 5050. I kept my last projector for 10 years.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I bought the 3800 for my living room. Midtone walls, white ceiling, good blinds, and an ALR screen. Nice and bright, good colors for my taste, and great for daytime viewing. But for serious viewing at night, the darks were so pale I was taken aback. I returned it for the 5050 and even with my white ceiling and midtone walls the difference in blacks was fairly dramatic. Beyond that, the look is quite similar to the 3800, though not quite as bright.

The 5050 also has two modes that increase the color gamut, so if you have a bright enough setup, you will also get better colors. My low-gain screen is too dim for the wider color-gamut settings which significantly reduce light output. It still offers some HDR benefits in other modes, however, and still looks great to my eyes in "Natural" mode. The price bump for the 5050 was a hard pill to swallow just for the blacks, but it's being washed down pretty quickly with hours of enjoyment.


----------



## Luminated67

Crazy Otto said:


> Ha I do have better than 2020 vision according to vision dr. It’s not terrible, but in certain situations like the paramount logo at the beginning of a movie I can see it on the text. No deal breaker tho
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


OK well with text I can understand that. Mine 9400(6050) was pro calibrated by a fellow Gordon from Convergent AV in the UK, being doing this stuff professional for almost twenty years and dare I say rather good at he job LOL, after he fixed the convergence (no pun intended LOL) the image was calmer than before which I assume means the pixels are working in harmony. We did a comparison a while back with a mates Sony 360es in my room and we actually had to move to within 7ft of my then 100" screen before the superior pixel count of the Sony start to show itself.


----------



## Crazy Otto

Unkabin said:


> I bought the 3800 for my living room. Midtone walls, white ceiling, good blinds, and an ALR screen. Nice and bright, good colors for my taste, and great for daytime viewing. But for serious viewing at night, the darks were so pale I was taken aback. I returned it for the 5050 and even with my white ceiling and midtone walls the difference in blacks was fairly dramatic. Beyond that, the look is quite similar to the 3800, though not quite as bright.
> 
> The 5050 also has two modes that increase the color gamut, so if you have a bright enough setup, you will also get better colors. My low-gain screen is too dim for the wider color-gamut settings which significantly reduce light output. It still offers some HDR benefits in other modes, however, and still looks great to my eyes in "Natural" mode. The price bump for the 5050 was a hard pill to swallow just for the blacks, but it's being washed down pretty quickly with hours of enjoyment.


That’s pretty good information. If I were to go 5050 I’d have to wait I think. I wonder if the 4010 strikes a decent middle ground or a 5030...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Crazy Otto said:


> I’m sitting about 12 feet from 130 16x9. I have very good eyesight, and I can just tell in rare situations the resolution isn’t as high as the BenQ. I wonder if this can be tweaked with settings though to minimize.
> 
> Really the biggest drawback with the 3800 was the colors weren’t as vibrant as on the the 3550 and the darks weren’t as good either. The 3D had more punch and contrast and even in spite of crosstalk here and there. I wonder if lower lumens would minimize crosstalk in the 5050 and then it’d also have better color in 2d.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You're doing something wrong if the colors were not as vibrant on the HC3800 vs. HT3550 on an 130" screen.

Blacks are also better on the Epson.

HC4010 is practically the same as the 5050UB but without the good blacks. It's said to be very similar to the HC3800.
The 10GB HDMI might be a problem.
5030UB is 1080p version of 5050UB.

Check out these two posts and the others:









Epson HC 3200 and 3800 revealed


Black out the entire room and get better blacks from the 5050UB. The more ambient and/or cross reflected light that hits the screen the less advantage a projector with superior contrast/black levels will have over one with lesser contrast/black levels. Yes thanks That is why I mentioned my...




www.avsforum.com













Epson HC 3200 and 3800 revealed


5040UB refurb. A good option and probably the logical one, but I factor in that $300ish lamp replacement cost and wasted "contrast" in my much less than perfect room (thumbs). I'd go with the 5050 if the lamps were around $150. It is not the projector's cost, it just seems like a rip off...




www.avsforum.com















Search results for query: 4010







www.avsforum.com


----------



## Crazy Otto

noob00224 said:


> You're doing something wrong if the colors were not as vibrant on the HC3800 vs. HT3550 on an 130" screen.
> 
> Blacks are also better on the Epson.


Maybe I was. Do you know any setting that would result in boosted blacks or washed out colors?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

Crazy Otto said:


> Maybe I was. Do you know any setting that would result in boosted blacks or washed out colors?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Many settings, from projector and player.
Color space for one.


----------



## Brajesh

rollon1980 said:


> Had a very quick look...
> 
> the dynamic iris in Dynamic picture mode seems a bit better
> maybe slight tweaks to tone mapping
> 
> Nothing other of note but it was only a quick look.


Firmware 1.04 is now available on the U.S. site.


----------



## fredworld

Brajesh said:


> Firmware 1.04 is now available on the U.S. site.


Last I knew 1.04 was still a mystery. Anyone know what it addresses? No notes on the Epson site.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Hi everyone, I just bought the Panasonic ub420 to accompany my epson 5050. What sett I have to put on 420 for best picture setting? should I leave the hdr optimizer on ?


----------



## Burntwaxaudio

Yes!!! Please can we get an answer to this? I just finished reading the entire forum (took me 2 weeks) looking for the answer to this question. Imagine my laughter and frustration when I finally got to the end of all the posts, and this last post, is my first, still unanswered question. Talk about a twilight zone episode...
We need a list or step by step of proper settings for proper setup of sdr2020 on ub420 or ub820 etc and Epson 5050/6050. I thought I had found a correct settings post, then tried those settings, and movies looked somewhat blurry. I must have had some wrong information...

Questions: On the Panasonic player-
On the player settings menu---
HDMI should be set to 1080?
4k60p set to off???
24p output set to auto??
HDMI video set to auto?
HDMI sound set to audio only?
HDR10+ set to On??

Advanced settings menu:
Color mode: YCbCr Auto?
Deep color output to Auto 12 bit priority?
HDR/Color Gamut: SDR/BT. 2020 Auto???
Sdr/sdr conversion set to OFF???
Hlg/Pq conversion set to OFF?
HDR Tv Type: Basic Luminence and Projector? Didn't someone else alternatively say use the Oled setting? Someone else said don't use them at all, that they are negated in fact by selecting SDR2020??
25p/50p set to OFF?
HDCP Output Settings set to HDCP 1.4 LIMIT???
Contents type flag set to Auto?

On the menu that is only accessible while a disc is playing:
Optimum HDR Adjustment, HDR Optimizer set to ON?
Dynamic Range Conversion Slider best recommended setting?

Any thing else I left out?

And! With all of this, pair it with WHAT COLOR MODE ON THE EPSON INCLUDING GAMMA SETTING. .. OR...
WHAT CALIBRATED SETTINGS FROM THE INTERNET PAIR BEST WHEN USING SDR/BT2020 Served by the Panasonic?
Also in the 5050ub:
What mode and settings to put the Epson in to properly receieve the color mapping from the panasonic? Please list all of them. 
Such as Edid expanded? Correct video range (auto, limited, or full) 
Doesn't the HDR button now bring up a different menu on the Epson when in SDR/BT2020? what are the recommended settings for this as well? 
Anything else I missed in the epson or panasonic settings guys? Please advise!

I know some of you believe that the Epson 1.03 firmware update provides better mapping than the Panasonic's at this point. But we need to make sure we are at least setting it up correctly for comparison. Thanks a million for your all of your help with this.


----------



## Luminated67

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Hi everyone, I just bought the Panasonic ub420 to accompany my epson 5050. What sett I have to put on 420 for best picture setting? should I leave the hdr optimizer on ?


First make sure your set to Basic Luminance projector in the settings.

For me I found Optimizer ON and set room to the second one I think it’s call “natural”, other than that I work with the HDR slider on the Epson to get the best balance between brightness and shadow detail.


----------



## amdar

Any recommendation for cleaning the projector lens?


----------



## Luminated67

amdar said:


> Any recommendation for cleaning the projector lens?


Google camera lens cleaner, what I was told to use was just a micro cloth but I’m sure there’s other things too.


----------



## JonfromCB

I just updated my 5050UB to version 4. The process was smooth and went by the book. When I turned the unit back on to check the update in the menu, it shows "main" as v4, but it shows "video 2" as v3. Has anyone else had this happen? Thanks.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

JonfromCB said:


> I just updated my 5050UB to version 4. The process was smooth and went by the book. When I turned the unit back on to check the update in the menu, it shows "main" as v4, but it shows "video 2" as v3. Has anyone else had this happen? Thanks.


Exactly the same shows to me, me i updated 2 weeks ago with the Australian one.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

Luminated67 said:


> First make sure your set to Basic Luminance projector in the settings.
> 
> For me I found Optimizer ON and set room to the second one I think it’s call “natural”, other than that I work with the HDR slider on the Epson to get the best balance between brightness and shadow detail.


Thanks, time to start to collect Blu-ray’s disc now.


----------



## JonfromCB

Vagos, thanks for the quick reply. Good to know I'm not alone. I tried to call customer service to verify but they are closed on Saturday. I will send them an email inquiry and post their response here for all as soon as they respond.


----------



## Luminated67

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Thanks, time to start to collect Blu-ray’s disc now.


Check out the Projector screenshot eye candy thread over on the “over $3000” section for movie idea and how good the picture quality of the discs are.


----------



## biglen

Has anyone tried a USB extension cable to update the firmware? It's really tough getting to the back of my projector, so I was thinking of getting an extension cable. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Has anyone tried a USB extension cable to update the firmware? It's really tough getting to the back of my projector, so I was thinking of getting an extension cable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


In theory it should work just fine. I suppose until someone exactly try it we will never know.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> In theory it should work just fine. I suppose until someone exactly try it we will never know.


I guess for $5 and free returns, I have nothing to lose. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## misterg51

biglen said:


> Has anyone tried a USB extension cable to update the firmware? It's really tough getting to the back of my projector, so I was thinking of getting an extension cable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


What they said ^^^^^ but power is back there as well. I did mine after the pain of getting the USB in there....... anyone know what the changes are?


----------



## audiochron

Guys I got my HDMI optical cable replacement from the store and bingo, back in business! Appreciate the assistance 😊🤗


----------



## DaGamePimp

biglen said:


> Has anyone tried a USB extension cable to update the firmware? It's really tough getting to the back of my projector, so I was thinking of getting an extension cable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



I used a 16' USB extension with a built in repeater and it worked without issue when I did 1.03.

- Jason


----------



## JonfromCB

JonfromCB said:


> Vagos, thanks for the quick reply. Good to know I'm not alone. I tried to call customer service to verify but they are closed on Saturday. I will send them an email inquiry and post their response here for all as soon as they respond.


FYI on firmware update. Updated to V 4 and "info" in menu showed "mains" as V104 and "video 2" as V104. (edit typo'...should read "video 2 as v 103)

Email response from Epson gave me a Reference # and instructs me to call for assistance. I will update after receiving assistance from Epson.


----------



## biglen

JonfromCB said:


> FYI on firmware update. Updated to V 4 and "info" in menu showed "mains" as V104 and "video 2" as V104.
> 
> Email response from Epson gave me a Reference # and instructs me to call for assistance. I will update after receiving assistance from Epson.


What do you need assistance with, when both are saying V104?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## JonfromCB

biglen said:


> What do you need assistance with, when both are saying V104?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Sorry, typo', my bad, "video 2 is still showing V3. See post 8878


----------



## biglen

JonfromCB said:


> Sorry, typo', my bad, "video 2 is still showing V3. See post 8878


Ah, gotcha. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

JonfromCB said:


> FYI on firmware update. Updated to V 4 and "info" in menu showed "mains" as V104 and "video 2" as V104. (edit typo'...should read "video 2 as v 103)
> 
> Email response from Epson gave me a Reference # and instructs me to call for assistance. I will update after receiving assistance from Epson.


I’m pretty sure this is normal. Some firmware versions update both boards, others only one, dependent on what code they updated. The previous firmware just happened to be a much bigger update! This only changed dynamic iris from what we could see.
Although if someone could connect their Xbox one x directly and could test 1080p 120hz that would be awesome, they might have added the option.


----------



## Ahzroe1

I have a totally light controlled basement with a Mitsubishi Hc4000. Is an upgrade to this worthy?


----------



## RRF

What are the best settings for viewing 1080p source with a lot of print?
I am seeing print as a bit fuzzy...like an extra row of pixels at the top of each letter.
Focus and alignment are both excellent with 4K material, but digital cable on channels like CNN are below par.


----------



## JonfromCB

rollon1980 said:


> I’m pretty sure this is normal. Some firmware versions update both boards, others only one, dependent on what code they updated. The previous firmware just happened to be a much bigger update! This only changed dynamic iris from what we could see.
> Although if someone could connect their Xbox one x directly and could test 1080p 120hz that would be awesome, they might have added the option.


I have no idea, I can only relate Epson's response that they opened case and want me to contact them for assistance.
I hope to contact them tomorrow. I will provide an update to this community afterwards.


----------



## misterg51

JonfromCB said:


> I have no idea, I can only relate Epson's response that they opened case and want me to contact them for assistance.
> I hope to contact them tomorrow. I will provide an update to this community afterwards.


Mine is the same. I think there has always been a difference on my 5050 and 5040, FWIW


----------



## JonfromCB

misterg51 said:


> Mine is the same. I think there has always been a difference on my 5050 and 5040, FWIW


You lost me. What's a 5040 have to do with this?


----------



## Jeff Sweeney

Hi all, just hooked up my 5050UB and am looking for some guidance to calibrate all my picture and other settings. This thread is so long it’s overwhelming. Can someone link me to a good starting point?


----------



## vagos1103gr1

JonfromCB said:


> You lost me. What's a 5040 have to do with this?


Keep us inform with that, i am interesting also.


----------



## JonfromCB

Jeff Sweeney said:


> Hi all, just hooked up my 5050UB and am looking for some guidance to calibrate all my picture and other settings. This thread is so long it’s overwhelming. Can someone link me to a good starting point?


Jeff, there are too many pages on subtopics such as mounts, screens, settings, connections, etc, etc, etc to say there is one good place to start. My best advice would be if you have a question that is specific to the 5050 jump in and ask, or do a search on your topic and PM one of the guys who seems to know what he's talking about. I've PM'd several guys who have been helpful. Otherwise you're right-on...it's an overwhelming "free for all".


----------



## JonfromCB

JonfromCB said:


> FYI on firmware update. Updated to V 4 and "info" in menu showed "mains" as V104 and "video 2" as V104. (edit typo'...should read "video 2 as v 103)
> 
> Email response from Epson gave me a Reference # and instructs me to call for assistance. I will update after receiving assistance from Epson.



Community, Update on firmware V104. I just spoke with Epson support and was informed that the latest update is to the "main" board only and not the "video 2" board. Meaning that when the firmware is updated successfully, and the update is checked in menu/info it will show V4 for "main" only. For example: my "main" shows v104 and my "video 2" shows v103, which is correct.


----------



## misterg51

JonfromCB said:


> You lost me. What's a 5040 have to do with this?


That the projector info on the 5040 and 5050 have always been different, main is higher by 1. Mine says main 104 and second 103.


----------



## fredworld

JonfromCB said:


> Community, Update on firmware V104. I just spoke with Epson support and was informed that the latest update is to the "main" board only and not the "video 2" board. Meaning that when the firmware is updated successfully, and the update is checked in menu/info it will show V4 for "main" only. For example: my "main" shows v104 and my "video 2" shows v103, which is correct.


Any indication from Epson on what the update addresses other than that it was only for the main board?


----------



## Kieran

Looking at buying the 5050ub for a new media room that will be complete in February. I'm a little hesitant since the 5050ub seems to be getting a little long in the tooth... is there any word about a new/updated version coming any time soon? Should I hold out? I could put my 65" plasma on the wall in the interim....


----------



## Jeff Sweeney

JonfromCB said:


> Jeff, there are too many pages on subtopics such as mounts, screens, settings, connections, etc, etc, etc to say there is one good place to start. My best advice would be if you have a question that is specific to the 5050 jump in and ask, or do a search on your topic and PM one of the guys who seems to know what he's talking about. I've PM'd several guys who have been helpful. Otherwise you're right-on...it's an overwhelming "free for all".


Thanks, I've got it mounted, got the screen, and all of that. Now I am just looking for guidance around all of the picture settings. Are there user settings out there I can refer to as a guide?


----------



## JonfromCB

fredworld said:


> Any indication from Epson on what the update addresses other than that it was only for the main board?


No, he only indicated that whatever was changed was only on the main board.


----------



## biglen

I have my 5050 on a shelf. How critical is it that the front of the projector face, is lined up perfectly with the screen?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

biglen said:


> I have my 5050 on a shelf. How critical is it that the front of the projector face, is lined up perfectly with the screen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


If it isn't perpendicular in both directions you will get some keystone assuming digital keystone is zero. You don't have a screen, correct? Just a painted wall? So you have no borders to line up too so it would be very difficult to notice if it is off a little.


----------



## biglen

rekbones said:


> If it isn't perpendicular in both directions you will get some keystone assuming digital keystone is zero. You don't have a screen, correct? Just a painted wall? So you have no borders to line up too so it would be very difficult to notice if it is off a little.


Correct, painted wall. I was just concerned about focus. Say it was shifted to the left or right a little, would one side of the screen be a little out of focus, since it's technically a different distance from the screen?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

biglen said:


> Correct, painted wall. I was just concerned about focus. Say it was shifted to the left or right a little, would one side of the screen be a little out of focus, since it's technically a different distance from the screen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Possibly a little but focus doesn't change much with distance so I doubt it would be noticeable. The keystone is much more pronounced.


----------



## biglen

rekbones said:


> Possibly a little but focus doesn't change much with distance so I doubt it would be noticeable. The keystone is much more pronounced.


Okay, just double checking. I moved it today to put a USB extender on the back, for future updates. When I put it back in place, it hit me that it might not be square with the screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

Jeff Sweeney said:


> Thanks, I've got it mounted, got the screen, and all of that. Now I am just looking for guidance around all of the picture settings. Are there user settings out there I can refer to as a guide?


Googling epson 5050 calibration settings is your best bet..

With that said, I tried them all and although some "looked" better than others, once I got a calibration light meter, I quickly realized, none of them were anywhere near correct. Every room, projector, screen, lighting changes the settings pretty drastically.

The difference from copying someone else's calibration settings and doing my own was a night and day difference.

Start with medium lamp. 6000 color, -2 gamma and enjoy that rabbit hole.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

platinum00 said:


> Googling epson 5050 calibration settings is your best bet..
> 
> With that said, I tried them all and although some "looked" better than others, once I got a calibration light meter, I quickly realized, none of them were anywhere near correct. Every room, projector, screen, lighting changes the settings pretty drastically.
> 
> The difference from copying someone else's calibration settings and doing my own was a night and day difference.
> 
> Start with medium lamp. 6000 color, -2 gamma and enjoy that rabbit hole.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Agreed. Plus see this post.


----------



## scar8686

Just ordered mine today! (TW9400)


----------



## pbc

Kieran said:


> Looking at buying the 5050ub for a new media room that will be complete in February. I'm a little hesitant since the 5050ub seems to be getting a little long in the tooth... is there any word about a new/updated version coming any time soon? Should I hold out? I could put my 65" plasma on the wall in the interim....


Given CES is in January, probably makes sense to at least wait until then. The 5030 came out in 2013 from the looks of it, the 5040 in 2017, 5050 in 2019. Maybe they're now on a 2 year life cycle...who knows.

I'm in the same boat, though I'd prefer not to wait until Jan/Feb, then who knows how long before the projector hits the streets as my game room/HT is just finished.


----------



## rccurr

Just a couple of quick observations after receiving my replacement 5050ub since my original one crapped out after 127 hrs. First, fan noise on high is noticeably quieter than my original unit. Actually useable on high without being a distraction. Second, unit appears brighter overall. Had to turn HDR slider down to 2 on the previous one to get a good picture that wasn’t too dark. With new unit, slider at 2, everything is washed out and Not watchable. Default of 8 works well now as de facto setting. Also new unit came with 1.14 already installed. Not sure if that accounts for some of differences, other than fan noise. In any case, positive improvements across the board so I can’t complain too much.


----------



## rccurr

Just a couple of quick observations after receiving my replacement 5050ub since my original one crapped out after 127 hrs. First, fan noise on high is noticeably quieter than my original unit. Actually useable on high without being a distraction. Second, unit appears brighter overall. Had to turn HDR slider down to 2 on the previous one to get a good picture that wasn’t too dark. With new unit, slider at 2, everything is washed out and Not watchable. Default of 8 works well now as de facto setting. Also new unit came with 1.14 already installed. Not sure if that accounts for some of differences, other than fan noise. In any case, positive improvements across the board so I can’t complain too much.


----------



## rccurr

Sorry for double post


----------



## biglen

Does 1.04 seem worth updating to?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## arnemetis

rccurr said:


> Just a couple of quick observations after receiving my replacement 5050ub since my original one crapped out after 127 hrs. First, fan noise on high is noticeably quieter than my original unit. Actually useable on high without being a distraction. Second, unit appears brighter overall. Had to turn HDR slider down to 2 on the previous one to get a good picture that wasn’t too dark. With new unit, slider at 2, everything is washed out and Not watchable. Default of 8 works well now as de facto setting. Also new unit came with 1.14 already installed. Not sure if that accounts for some of differences, other than fan noise. In any case, positive improvements across the board so I can’t complain too much.


This right here might be the actual benefits to upgrading to 1.04. I would think that the changes to high fan noise and hdr would be something they would put front and center. Anyone else who has upgraded and can comment? I'm a little leery to upgrade without good reason.


----------



## brian sore

vagos1103gr1 said:


> Exactly the same shows to me, me i updated 2 weeks ago with the Australian one.


Hi, I have just purchased an Epson ehtw 9400 with 1.03 firmware could you give any information on what advantages in the 1.04 version regards brian.


----------



## Brajesh

No one seems to know what improvements 1.04 has.


----------



## brian sore

Brajesh said:


> No one seems to know what improvements 1.04 has.





Brajesh said:


> No one seems to know what improvements 1.04 has.





Brajesh said:


> No one seems to know what improvements 1.04 has.


----------



## brian sore

The person where I purchased my projector said he knows a person at Epson and he claims the update was for technicians to retrieve information from projector quickly and that 1.03 still is the latest firmware I don’t necessarily believe that story I am with you I don’t think anybody knows.


----------



## Bandyka

JonfromCB said:


> Community, Update on firmware V104. I just spoke with Epson support and was informed that the latest update is to the "main" board only and not the "video 2" board. Meaning that when the firmware is updated successfully, and the update is checked in menu/info it will show V4 for "main" only. For example: my "main" shows v104 and my "video 2" shows v103, which is correct.


Good stuff and what exactly did it do to the board??


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Anyone know if the Epson will give a warning when the filter needs to be cleaned?


----------



## JonfromCB

Bandyka said:


> Good stuff and what exactly did it do to the board??


The customer service rep' was unable to tell me about specific changes in the 1.04 firmware update.


----------



## plain fan

Every projector I've seen has a "clean or replace air filter" message based on lamp/run hours.


----------



## nikolindb

Lately I've noticed this strange green hue with my Epson 6050. I've bought it a year ago and have clocked +1000h with it. Any idea what is causing this? It remains there all the time...here's a photo with blank screen to really show what it looks like:


----------



## fredworld

Looks wrong to me. I'd contact Epson about it without hesitation.


----------



## quenthal

Any idea what could be happening?

My son unplugged HDMI source (Apple TV) from my Denon X6500H which is connected to my Epson.

While plugging in the Apple TV, small sparks was seen from Denon's HDMI input.

Now there is no picture from Denon to Epson. When connecting Apple TV directly to Epson, I get nice picture.

However, when I plug my PC display (not 4K though) to Denon, it can show picture there.

Epson doesn't recognise Denon at all, neither Denon sees Epson (if I set monitor to auto).

I reseted Denon etc., but no help.

How can it be, that there two devices are now completely incompatible (as they both work with other equipment independently)? What could I do?


----------



## fredworld

JonfromCB said:


> The customer service rep' was unable to tell me about specific changes in the 1.04 firmware update.


The filter is simple enough to check. Just pop off the louvered cover in front of the filter, slide out the filter, look at it. If it's clean, just put it back in. If any dirt, then vacuum it gently and place it back in, if it's very dirty replace it wit a new one. Takes a minute to do. I don't like to rely on messages for such. The filters are rather inexpensive and worth keeping an extra one on hand.


----------



## Fiveshift

No clean place to ask this question but also not thread worthy so it's going here ; I'm planning to purchase a 5050ub soon and also need a receiver as well. Initially I planned on getting a Denon X3700H to pair with the projector and PS5 since it had 2.1 capability but might be not important with the projector. I see the 2019 x3600h is 400 dollars less, any reason I shouldn't just buy the 2019 unit?


----------



## quenthal

Fiveshift said:


> No clean place to ask this question but also not thread worthy so it's going here ; I'm planning to purchase a 5050ub soon and also need a receiver as well. Initially I planned on getting a Denon X3700H to pair with the projector and PS5 since it had 2.1 capability but might be not important with the projector. I see the 2019 x3600h is 400 dollars less, any reason I shouldn't just buy the 2019 unit?


If you are not replacing that future projector of yours anytime soon, or you are not planning to get 2nd screen supporting 2.1, that 400 USD should be sent on games and movies for maximum enjoyment


----------



## biglen

Fiveshift said:


> No clean place to ask this question but also not thread worthy so it's going here ; I'm planning to purchase a 5050ub soon and also need a receiver as well. Initially I planned on getting a Denon X3700H to pair with the projector and PS5 since it had 2.1 capability but might be not important with the projector. I see the 2019 x3600h is 400 dollars less, any reason I shouldn't just buy the 2019 unit?


Accessories4less has the x3600h for $650. That's a steal. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Fiveshift

quenthal said:


> If you are not replacing that future projector of yours anytime soon, or you are not planning to get 2nd screen supporting 2.1, that 400 USD should be sent on games and movies for maximum enjoyment





biglen said:


> Accessories4less has the x3600h for $650. That's a steal.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the feedback, ended up snagging a x3600h refurb for 699 from World Wide Stereo, the other deal was sold out but thanks for the tip.


----------



## amairphoto

amairphoto said:


> Terrible image I know. But as you can see I have one area middle left that is struggling. It's really noticeable in darker scenes. I have 1375 hours in my lamp. Is that the cause?
> 
> 
> View attachment 3044491


So after advice that this was a piece of dust I tried removing it with a rocket blower, the same device I use to remove dust from my cameras sensor. 
I have tried and tried, it's still there. Anyone have any further suggestions on how to remove this?


----------



## biglen

Fiveshift said:


> Thanks for the feedback, ended up snagging a x3600h refurb for 699 from World Wide Stereo, the other deal was sold out but thanks for the tip.


I was going to tell you to act quick, because it said "almost gone". $699 is still a great deal. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

I believe I read that there is now a known bug with the first HDMI 2.1 chipsets.


----------



## fredworld

plain fan said:


> I believe I read that there is now a known bug with the first HDMI 2.1 chipsets.


Essentially, correct. For some insight see *here* and *here*.


----------



## Shinji Mikami

My TW9400 (6050UB) has 400h lamp use. When do you recommend change it? 1000 hours or less?


----------



## Azekecse

Shinji Mikami said:


> My TW9400 (6050UB) has 400h lamp use. When do you recommend change it? 1000 hours or less?


That would depend on whether you run the projector on High, Medium or Low Lamp?

Directly from Epson:
*Lamp Life:*

ECO mode: Up to 5000 hours
Medium mode: Up to 4000 hours
High Mode: Up to 3,500 hours
I change my bulbs with about 500 hrs. left on the lamp, I mark the hours on the box, and use it as a spare.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## Luminated67

Mine will be two years come January and I’ve only 480hrs on the bulb so I reckon I’ll be changing the projector before the bulb.


----------



## hallohering

Hello everyone,

I just got my Epson TW-9400 aka the Epson 6050UB and I am a bit lost. This is my first real projector.
The thing I want to do most with it is to game with the PS5 and Xbox Series X. At the moment I have a PS4 Pro hooked up to it.

Is there a guide for calibration or settings to use with gaming? At the moment I use the Dynamic Picture settings which seems to have really nice but I think "wrong" colors. 

I have found this page for some settings to start:
Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater ...www.projectorreviews.com › epson › epson-home-cinem...

But there is no info on gaming. Are there any tipps you guys can give me on how to calibrate the epson for gaming? Thank you very much and sorry for the beginner questions 

Greets


----------



## mattrayetta

Hi guys. I have a 5050ub. It's been about a week since firmware 1.04 was released. I know it's been asked before but does anyone have any input about what's been updated? I have mine hung and it'll be a pain to do the plug in hold the power button thing.... Million dollar question, is it worth it....


----------



## Luminated67

mattrayetta said:


> Hi guys. I have a 5050ub. It's been about a week since firmware 1.04 was released. I know it's been asked before but does anyone have any input about what's been updated? I have mine hung and it'll be a pain to do the plug in hold the power button thing.... Million dollar question, is it worth it....


I done mine about 2-3 weeks ago with the download from Epson Australia and it hard to know what's different, all I can say is I think it handles HDR even better but can't put my finger on what has actually changed. I classed the movie movie The Revenant as one of those dull movies that should be problematic but I found the Epson combined with the Panasonic UB420 to deliver a very convincing image and the amount of shadow detail in these dull scenes was truly amazing.


----------



## Brandon Lopez

Hello - I have an Epson 6050UB - I'll say overall, I haven't been blown away by the picture, which I'm likely chalking up to the fact that my room isn't completely light controlled (this will change soon). But one thing that is very very bothersome is that on certain scenes with HDR content, you can see incredibly noticeable issues with the picture - I'm not sure what the issue is called, but it looks like "light waves or ripples" that move around characters, etc. They aren't completely stagnant and shift somewhat when there is action on the screen or there is panning. These are more prevalent in brighter scenes. The pictures included below are from the Mandalorian in 4K HDR - you can see these "ripples/waves/whatever" more prevalent in the upper right corner (they are everywhere, but these pictures show it best there), and you can see how these kind of move around the characters on the screen depending on what is going on. Using the Disney+ app on AppleTV with an ethernet connection (1 Gbps internet). The AppleTV is configured to display 4K HDR sources properly. In this particular scene, I was watching on the Digital Cinema color mode, but I've noticed similar issues on other color modes and at various levels on the HDR slider scale. 

I'm losing my mind over this! Any one know what this issue is exactly, and how I can fix it? Is it video settings on the projector, is it the source material, is it the bulb, anything else? It makes certain content unwatchable in my opinion. Thanks so much for all of your help!


----------



## Luminated67

I don’t have AppleTV connected to my projector and actually on have it built in to my LG OLED TV, but the banding you are seeing is your bit level, check on the menu for “projector info” and see what it says when you are playing AppleTV, you want to be seeing 4:4:2 10Bit at least.

What optical HDMI cable are you using to connect between your AV Receiver and projector.

This is mine image with a similar sky with HDR 4K, zero banding.


----------



## RRF

Anyone know how to get the total hours for this projector?


----------



## Luminated67

RRF said:


> Anyone know how to get the total hours for this projector?


Go to your menu and the submenu “info” when you click it there’s one on it that tells you the number of hours on the bulb, not sure if in there also tells you total hours on projector though.


----------



## Brandon Lopez

Luminated67 said:


> I don’t have AppleTV connected to my projector and actually on have it built in to my LG OLED TV, but the banding you are seeing is your bit level, check on the menu for “projector info” and see what it says when you are playing AppleTV, you want to be seeing 4:4:2 10Bit at least.
> 
> What optical HDMI cable are you using to connect between your AV Receiver and projector.
> 
> This is mine image with a similar sky with HDR 4K, zero banding.
> 
> View attachment 3054576


You’re awesome! And correct - it lists the color depth as 8 bit 4:2:0. I had a Control4 dealer install everything, but from their work order, they used a Binary B6-4K-1 from the AVR to an AV Pro Edge HDR extender (AC-EX40-444-KIT: 40 Meter 4K HDR). Then looks like a cat6 cable from this extender to the projector itself.

From the looks of the specs online, it looks like these are fully HDR capable?

Is there a setting in the Epson that can increase the color depth/bit to the minimum signal you mentioned?


----------



## biglen

Brandon Lopez said:


> You’re awesome! And correct - it lists the color depth as 8 bit 4:2:0. I had a Control4 dealer install everything, but from their work order, they used a Binary B6-4K-1 from the AVR to an AV Pro Edge HDR extender (AC-EX40-444-KIT: 40 Meter 4K HDR). Then looks like a cat6 cable from this extender to the projector itself.
> 
> From the looks of the specs online, it looks like these are fully HDR capable?
> 
> Is there a setting in the Epson that can increase the color depth/bit to the minimum signal you mentioned?


That's a setting that would be on your source, not the projector. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## mattrayetta

Luminated67 said:


> I done mine about 2-3 weeks ago with the download from Epson Australia and it hard to know what's different, all I can say is I think it handles HDR even better but can't put my finger on what has actually changed. I classed the movie movie The Revenant as one of those dull movies that should be problematic but I found the Epson combined with the Panasonic UB420 to deliver a very convincing image and the amount of shadow detail in these dull scenes was truly amazing.
> 
> View attachment 3054463
> 
> View attachment 3054462


Thank you Luminated67 for the feedback on firmware 1.04. I have 1.03 installed and there was a huge difference between 1.02 and 1.03. It seems like maybe a more subtle change to 1.04 (or maybe placebo...?). Your screen shots look awesome though. Knowing me, the itching sensation I'm missing out on something will make me climb up there and do it 😉.


----------



## biglen

mattrayetta said:


> Thank you Luminated67 for the feedback on firmware 1.04. I have 1.03 installed and there was a huge difference between 1.02 and 1.03. It seems like maybe a more subtle change to 1.04 (or maybe placebo...?). Your screen shots look awesome though. Knowing me, the itching sensation I'm missing out on something will make me climb up there and do it .


Yeah, they need to figure out a better way to update the firmware. It's the year 2020, and we shouldn't have to unplug the projector, then plug it back in while holding down buttons. It's like playing Twister. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Brandon Lopez

biglen said:


> That's a setting that would be on your source, not the projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks! The Apple TV 4K chroma setting is set to 4:4:4, the format is set to 4K SDR, HDMI output is set to YCbCr, and Match Content is set to Range & Frame Rate so that it adjusts to HDR depending on the content. These were the recommended settings I found elsewhere to be able to show 4K HDR content correctly. Any adjustments you’d recommend to solve the 8 bit issue?


----------



## biglen

Brandon Lopez said:


> Thanks! The Apple TV 4K chroma setting is set to 4:4:4, the format is set to 4K SDR, HDMI output is set to YCbCr, and Match Content is set to Range & Frame Rate so that it adjusts to HDR depending on the content. These were the recommended settings I found elsewhere to be able to show 4K HDR content correctly. Any adjustments you’d recommend to solve the 8 bit issue?


There isn't a bit option in the settings?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

Brandon Lopez said:


> Thanks! The Apple TV 4K chroma setting is set to 4:4:4, the format is set to 4K SDR, HDMI output is set to YCbCr, and Match Content is set to Range & Frame Rate so that it adjusts to HDR depending on the content. These were the recommended settings I found elsewhere to be able to show 4K HDR content correctly. Any adjustments you’d recommend to solve the 8 bit issue?


I have zero banding on my projector so there has to be an issue of some kind going on. You've come to the right forum for help.


----------



## mattrayetta

biglen said:


> Yeah, they need to figure out a better way to update the firmware. It's the year 2020, and we shouldn't have to unplug the projector, then plug it back in while holding down buttons. It's like playing Twister.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


No truer words have ever been spoken.


----------



## Luminated67

Hawkmarket said:


> I have zero banding on my projector so there has to be an issue of some kind going on. You've come to the right forum for help.


What’s your bit level, I bet it’s not 8Bit. I’m wondering is it connection method @Brandon Lopez is using rather than a regular optical HDMI


----------



## veekay

So, I seem to have an issue with my projector changing position between uses. I will turn it on and have to use the lens adjust to move the picture up or down - things will be fine until shutting off the projector, but the next time I use it I will have to adjust again. I don't know if it is the movement caused by the lens cover closing that slightly changes things or what - maybe my mount isn't sturdy enough.

Am I alone here?


----------



## fakerus

veekay said:


> So, I seem to have an issue with my projector changing position between uses. I will turn it on and have to use the lens adjust to move the picture up or down - things will be fine until shutting off the projector, but the next time I use it I will have to adjust again. I don't know if it is the movement caused by the lens cover closing that slightly changes things or what - maybe my mount isn't sturdy enough.
> 
> Am I alone here?


It sounds like your mount. Next time you adjust it, save the lens position. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

fakerus said:


> It sounds like your mount. Next time you adjust it, save the lens position.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I can't say for certain but I was always under the impression that the projector kept the same position each time it was turned off and on again. If it's moving and only a tiny amount then it's probably the mount but even then the mount would have to be quite loose surely?


----------



## fakerus

Luminated67 said:


> I can't say for certain but I was always under the impression that the projector kept the same position each time it was turned off and on again. If it's moving and only a tiny amount then it's probably the mount but even then the mount would have to be quite loose surely?


Have you tried turning it off and back on back to back to see if it changes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fakerus

Brandon Lopez said:


> Thanks! The Apple TV 4K chroma setting is set to 4:4:4, the format is set to 4K SDR, HDMI output is set to YCbCr, and Match Content is set to Range & Frame Rate so that it adjusts to HDR depending on the content. These were the recommended settings I found elsewhere to be able to show 4K HDR content correctly. Any adjustments you’d recommend to solve the 8 bit issue?


Where did you see these recommended setting? I just switched to SDR from HDR on my Apple TV and it does looks noticeably better. I’m just trying to wrap my head around why?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

fakerus said:


> Have you tried turning it off and back on back to back to see if it changes?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Mate mine is 100% fine, my remarks were regarding the issue that @veekay was having with his. 👍

Maybe if there’s a room above the projector mount that sees a bit of foot step traffic and the mount isn’t tight you might see some repositioning on startup but like I said my opinion was the projector stores the position it was previously in and on restart up it will be on the same position it was when it was turned off.


----------



## heybtbm

To return or not return...

Brand new 5050ub from Amazon. There is a piece of dust inside the optics (outside surface of lens is clean) and is visible when the screen is dark. I learned my lesson years ago about using compressed air to remove dust in a projector, it's almost guaranteed to make it worse. The dust blob isn't noticeable when watching a movie, but any dark scene transition or fade to black and my eyes catch it immediately (likely because I know it's there). I honestly could live with it, but returning the projector is just as easy. What would you fellow 5050ub owners do?


----------



## Brandon Lopez

fakerus said:


> Where did you see these recommended setting? I just switched to SDR from HDR on my Apple TV and it does looks noticeably better. I’m just trying to wrap my head around why?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


A few reddit threads, apple threads and a CNET article.









Apple TV 4K no longer forces you to watch everything in HDR


Video purists rejoice: Apple's expensive 4K streamer provides the option to turn off automatic HDR conversion.




www.cnet.com




.

From my understanding, setting it to 4K SDR but enabling "Match Frame and Range" will automatically turn on HDR for any HDR content. Otherwise, content will play in SDR as intended.


----------



## Brandon Lopez

Luminated67 said:


> What’s your bit level, I bet it’s not 8Bit. I’m wondering is it connection method @Brandon Lopez is using rather than a regular optical HDMI


When I get home from work, I'm going to play around with the settings in Apple TV a bit more. I read a few threads last night that discussed color depth/bit issues when the chroma setting is at 4:4:4. Will try to change that setting to see if the output moves up to 10Bit.


----------



## BIC2

Haven't been on here in a while. I'm hooked up to a Panasonic 820. On my 6050, I have separate settings for HD & UHD disks. Never been sure about using the B&W setting. My untrained eye sees little difference with B&W setting on HD. Now that I have my first B&W UHD movie--_A Wonderful Life_--I'm wondering what the B&W setting does? Should I use it for HD and/or UHD B&W? Thanks.


----------



## veekay

Luminated67 said:


> I can't say for certain but I was always under the impression that the projector kept the same position each time it was turned off and on again. If it's moving and only a tiny amount then it's probably the mount but even then the mount would have to be quite loose surely?


Wouldn't say the mount is really loose, but it sure does have a good bit of wiggle with this monster. It has been a great mount for my previous smaller projectors and I really didn't want to have to buy something new, but it sure gets annoying adjusting each time.


----------



## Luminated67

veekay said:


> Wouldn't say the mount is really loose, but it sure does have a good bit of wiggle with this monster. It has been a great mount for my previous smaller projectors and I really didn't want to have to buy something new, but it sure gets annoying adjusting each time.


Is it on a long pole?

The problem is the Epson might not be as heavy as one of the new JVC N series but it’s still a heavy projector compared to most DLPs. My previous mount was a cheaper one from Amazon and to be honest it did an OK job but the switch to decent mount highlights that your really do get what you pay for.


----------



## veekay

Luminated67 said:


> Is it on a long pole?
> 
> The problem is the Epson might not be as heavy as one of the new JVC N series but it’s still a heavy projector compared to most DLPs. My previous mount was a cheaper one from Amazon and to be honest it did an OK job but the switch to decent mount highlights that your really do get what you pay for.


About 12" - though it isn't a single pole, maybe 3 different segments. I think this beast might be too much for it. Trying to look at others, but not seeing many that have enough of a drop and don't cost a fortune. All my previous Epsons had lens drift issues so figured it might be the same here.


----------



## Luminated67

veekay said:


> About 12" - though it isn't a single pole, maybe 3 different segments. I think this beast might be too much for it. Trying to look at others, but not seeing many that have enough of a drop and don't cost a fortune. All my previous Epsons had lens drift issues so figured it might be the same here.


The only issue I have ever heard about lens drift on the 5050/6050 was when you switch between different aspect ratios, but mine seem to be very good in this respect because it has only about 3mm of a shift to the right and this only happens occasionally.


----------



## MannFan

So I have no idea where to ask this question and this is an Epson 5050.. is my apartment neighbors smoke coming into my apartment? One neighbor smokes cigarettes and the one next to him smokes a lot of weed and lights incense. I can never smell those two things unless I'm out in the hall but I don't recall noticing this haze in the light until recently. Maybe I just never saw it and now I do notice it but is this "haze" normal in a normal home with no smoking neighbors? Ps. please don't kill me for how messy it is.. life's been busy lately.


----------



## fakerus

Brandon Lopez said:


> A few reddit threads, apple threads and a CNET article.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apple TV 4K no longer forces you to watch everything in HDR
> 
> 
> Video purists rejoice: Apple's expensive 4K streamer provides the option to turn off automatic HDR conversion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.cnet.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> From my understanding, setting it to 4K SDR but enabling "Match Frame and Range" will automatically turn on HDR for any HDR content. Otherwise, content will play in SDR as intended.


So,,I followed that guide.......holy crap. The picture went from great to unreal. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## arnemetis

heybtbm said:


> View attachment 3054912
> 
> 
> To return or not return...
> 
> Brand new 5050ub from Amazon. There is a piece of dust inside the optics (outside surface of lens is clean) and is visible when the screen is dark. I learned my lesson years ago about using compressed air to remove dust in a projector, it's almost guaranteed to make it worse. The dust blob isn't noticeable when watching a movie, but any dark scene transition or fade to black and my eyes catch it immediately (likely because I know it's there). I honestly could live with it, but returning the projector is just as easy. What would you fellow 5050ub owners do?


Personally I would return it. I lived with those after several years on my last projector, but to start out with one, no way.


----------



## MoreReso

Brajesh said:


> There is a difference. I Just upgraded from a BenQ HT3550 pixel-shifting (with 8.3 million distinctive pixels) to Epson 5050UB (with half that, at 4.15 million pixels). I was worried I'd have to compromise on that 4K sharpness, but I actually find Epson sharper at 'normal' viewing distances when 4K enhancement is engaged. When you're just 3-4ft away from the screen, you can make out SDE/pixel structure on the Epson, but at actual viewing distances (in my case 14.5ft from a 150" 16x9 screen), the perceived sharpness is better. Add Epson's far better brightness, contrast and blacks, then your 4K HDR has that pop BenQ can't quite achieve. BenQ is no slouch, but in comparison, it appears more flat and lacking on that pop I mentioned, and better HDR experience.


@Brajesh and other 3D fans. Your setup sounds a lot like mine - I'm slightly closer to my 150" 16x9 screen at about 13'. I started 5 years ago with a BenQ 1070 and love the image smoothness and especially the 3D which is a priority for me. I was considering the TK850 to get the higher brightness for 3D but am also considering the 5050ub (although it's a bit of a $ stretch for me.) You've mentioned the 3D in other posts in this discussion - can you compare/contrast the DLP vs. LCD 3D picture a bit more? Thank you 🤘


----------



## chek39

I got 6050ub installed two months ago. I saw couple of posts around new firmware and I think I am not able to find that in USA Epson website.
is that specific to UK version ? i saw couple of posts on that firmware can be applied to 6050ub . so is it safe to apply to 6050? any improvements ?
where do i find that firmware ?

Thanks


----------



## hallohering

chek39 said:


> I got 6050ub installed two months ago. I saw couple of posts around new firmware and I think I am not able to find that in USA Epson website.
> is that specific to UK version ? i saw couple of posts on that firmware can be applied to 6050ub . so is it safe to apply to 6050? any improvements ?
> where do i find that firmware ?
> 
> Thanks


I have updated my TW9400 yesterday and I used this link:


https://www.epson.de/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9400/Support-und-Downloads


----------



## hallohering

Hello everyone,

I just got my Xbox Series X and I am trying to find the best settings for it. 

This is what my projector and the 4K Test on the Xbox shows me:




















The main problem seems to be the color depth. I can only set it to 8bit.

This is my setup:

Epson TW9400 aka Epson 6050UB
Denon AVRX1300WBKE2
deleyCON 15m Optisches Glasfaser HDMI 2.0b Kabel - UHD 2160p [email protected] 4:4:4 HDR HDCP 2.2 ARC CEC Ethernet 18Gbps
Xbox Series X
What can I try to get the full color depth and a better picture?

Thank you so much  
Greets


----------



## chek39

hallohering said:


> I have updated my TW9400 yesterday and I used this link:
> 
> 
> https://www.epson.de/products/projectors/home-cinema/eh-tw9400/Support-und-Downloads


so is it safe to apply on 6050 ? i know TW9400 is same as 6050 and I am just wondering why Epson USA yet to recommend that firmware
Thanks


----------



## ba_crane

Quick question, I just bought a 77” OLED but I’d like to add a projector as well. I’m looking at a refurb 5040 and refurb 5050. Do you owners feel like the 5050 is worth $750 more than the 5040? 
plan is to add a manual pull down tab-tension screen that I can pull down in front of the OLED.
thank you


----------



## bpmurr

chek39 said:


> I got 6050ub installed two months ago. I saw couple of posts around new firmware and I think I am not able to find that in USA Epson website.
> is that specific to UK version ? i saw couple of posts on that firmware can be applied to 6050ub . so is it safe to apply to 6050? any improvements ?
> where do i find that firmware ?
> 
> Thanks


Here you go





Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US


Download projector firmware updates for select Epson projectors.




epson.com


----------



## bpmurr

rollon1980 said:


> I’m pretty sure this is normal. Some firmware versions update both boards, others only one, dependent on what code they updated. The previous firmware just happened to be a much bigger update! This only changed dynamic iris from what we could see.
> Although if someone could connect their Xbox one x directly and could test 1080p 120hz that would be awesome, they might have added the option.


What kind of change are you seeing with the dynamic iris feature with firmware version 1.04?


----------



## chek39

bpmurr said:


> Here you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US
> 
> 
> Download projector firmware updates for select Epson projectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> epson.com


Thanks. I was looking firmware on the epson 6050 page so i didn't able to find it. Thanks again
one more question.. is the latest firmware will take care all of the previous firmware's or do i need to apply each one in order ? 

Thanks


----------



## bpmurr

chek39 said:


> Thanks. I was looking firmware on the epson 6050 page so i didn't able to find it. Thanks again
> one more question.. is the latest firmware will take care all of the previous firmware's or do i need to apply each one in order ?
> 
> Thanks


Just apply the latest and it takes care of anything in prior versions.


----------



## rekbones

ba_crane said:


> Quick question, I just bought a 77” OLED but I’d like to add a projector as well. I’m looking at a refurb 5040 and refurb 5050. Do you owners feel like the 5050 is worth $750 more than the 5040?
> plan is to add a manual pull down tab-tension screen that I can pull down in front of the OLED.
> thank you


The answer is yes and no. If you can afford yes if you can't no. The 5040 has 10Gb HDMI and will give you issues between it and your OLED that has 18Gb HDMI. HDR is also handled better on the 5050.


----------



## RRF

Luminated67 said:


> Go to your menu and the submenu “info” when you click it there’s one on it that tells you the number of hours on the bulb, not sure if in there also tells you total hours on projector though.


Yes , saw that...but almost every projector has a total hours recorded somewhere, usually in a service mode.


----------



## veekay

RRF said:


> Yes , saw that...but almost every projector has a total hours recorded somewhere, usually in a service mode.


I had seen someone post where it even showed the number of bulb replacements - no idea where they got that menu though.


----------



## quenthal

quenthal said:


> Any idea what could be happening?
> 
> My son unplugged HDMI source (Apple TV) from my Denon X6500H which is connected to my Epson.
> 
> While plugging in the Apple TV, small sparks was seen from Denon's HDMI input.
> 
> Now there is no picture from Denon to Epson. When connecting Apple TV directly to Epson, I get nice picture.
> 
> However, when I plug my PC display (not 4K though) to Denon, it can show picture there.
> 
> Epson doesn't recognise Denon at all, neither Denon sees Epson (if I set monitor to auto).
> 
> I reseted Denon etc., but no help.
> 
> How can it be, that there two devices are now completely incompatible (as they both work with other equipment independently)? What could I do?


I have no fiddled with this a bit more. No matter what I do, I can't get my Denon AVC-X6500H and Epson projector to recognise each other. As a source I've used Denon's own menus, Apple TV and Blu-ray -player. At one point I managed to get Epson to recgnise some signal from it's INPUT2, but even that was "not supported" or something like that. I have tried with multiple cables as well.

If I put HDFury Vertex2 between Denon and Epson, everything works fine. No scaling or anything is used there.

Now I also tried with AVC-X8500H, I can show picture directly from it to Epson just fine as well.


----------



## plain fan

This may be a stupid question, but have you tried using different inputs on the Denon to the Epson? Meaning plug the Apple TV into a different HDMI input than the one that sparked and see if you get a picture. The sparks might mean that that particular HDMI input on the Denon was burnt out.


----------



## mister_z1

Hi Anyone know what they have gotten into this update? As much as I search, I can't find anything about what they have improved Thank you


----------



## lboe12

Hi All,

Excited to say I am waiting on delivery of a 5050 as an upgrade to my 5030. Im hoping the jump in image quality will be quite noticeable. I have a couple questions that im not certain about and am hoping you can help.

1. CFI while watching sports. I watch a lot of hockey on my projector and cant get a straight answer whether the CFI will work on 1080i content with 4k enhancement. I have seen a review on projectorreviews.com that says this does work however other reviews seem to disagree.

2. I am currently using an elunevision reference 4k screen @ 100 inches and am considering going to 120 inches. Has anyone had experience with the amazon basics screen? Im wondering if it will be compareable to what i currently have because i dont want to spend the $1500 for the elunevision 115 inch version. 

Thanks


----------



## arnemetis

I upgraded my 5050UB to 1.04 last night. I don't have the equipment to document anything before and after, but I basically saw no changes besides the info page telling me I was on 1.04 now. High power mode is still too loud to use in my environment (projector hanging over the seating position) but subjectively it sounds just a bit quieter. As I said I didn't measure anything before so it could just be placebo.


----------



## Manu9

Heya,
Is there a guide to optimizing the settings for the lowest input lag (for when one wants to game)?


----------



## biglen

Manu9 said:


> Heya,
> Is there a guide to optimizing the settings for the lowest input lag (for when one wants to game)?


I game all the time, and didn't do anything special in the settings. I have zero lag when gaming. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Werewolf79

I was just wondering something, I did a calibration for bright cinema when I want some lights on, Thats 44 ft lambert and has perfect grayscale and colours but what I would like is to be able to switch on 3D using a dynamic or bright cinema mode, using the two 3D modes provided only give 3.2ft lambert on cinema and the dynamic is 4.4ft lambert, not much difference between them but the cinema passes the contrast tests better on spears and Munsil.

The Hi-Shock glasses I bought are excellent, no crosstalk in 3D on difficult discs that I could see but 80% light loss.

Will it always switch to those two 3D modes, is there no way to get it to use a different mode in 3D ?

Finally, what exactly does the new firmware do, I do not wish to upgrade without knowing as i am concerned it will knock off all my calibrations, I have many modes calibrated now, in fact I filled up ten memory slots with different calibrations.

P.S. I have noticed with Amazon streaming, not tried Netflix yet, but with The Boys I was watching in UHD and it was 59.97hz and occasionally on panning there was a slight jerk, it only happened occasionally, on 23.976hz movie content there is no issue, at 25 FPS no issue, at 50hz no issue but I notice an issue with streaming content at 59.97hz, I am sure they could fix that with firmware if they cared to.


----------



## Werewolf79

heybtbm said:


> View attachment 3054912
> 
> 
> To return or not return...
> 
> Brand new 5050ub from Amazon. There is a piece of dust inside the optics (outside surface of lens is clean) and is visible when the screen is dark. I learned my lesson years ago about using compressed air to remove dust in a projector, it's almost guaranteed to make it worse. The dust blob isn't noticeable when watching a movie, but any dark scene transition or fade to black and my eyes catch it immediately (likely because I know it's there). I honestly could live with it, but returning the projector is just as easy. What would you fellow 5050ub owners do?


It would drive me crazy and I would want it fixed.


----------



## fredworld

fredworld said:


> Any indication from Epson on what the update addresses other than that it was only for the main board?


I got a reply from Epson regarding v1.04: _"Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it."_

I hope this helps those who have an interest. I'll proceed with the installation shortly.

.


----------



## Werewolf79

fredworld said:


> I got a reply from Epson regarding v1.04: _"Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it."_
> 
> I hope this helps those who have an interest. I'll proceed with the installation shortly.
> 
> .


I won’t bother then, I will wait for a more significant firmware as I am not having connection issues, although I am not sure what that means, connection issues ?


----------



## mister_z1

Hello everyone. I have been testing the update and it has me a bit confused because I had a very good feeling and something that I suppose is impossible would also have been announced with great fanfare. It gives me a feeling of a dynamic mapping since the other day I was testing some movies on the TV in the living room that has dynamic mapping and scenes that the Epson saw very dark, on the TV it looked very good because I tested with the same player same film in Epson and in the same scene I have seen the same feeling as the tv Could it be that they have put some kind of mapping? Would it be possible ??


----------



## Werewolf79

mister_z1 said:


> Hello everyone. I have been testing the update and it has me a bit confused because I had a very good feeling and something that I suppose is impossible would also have been announced with great fanfare. It gives me a feeling of a dynamic mapping since the other day I was testing some movies on the TV in the living room that has dynamic mapping and scenes that the Epson saw very dark, on the TV it looked very good because I tested with the same player same film in Epson and in the same scene I have seen the same feeling as the tv Could it be that they have put some kind of mapping? Would it be possible ??


It’s not possible, I believe someone already mentioned the chips in this Epson cannot do dynamic tone mapping and they would be shouting that from the rooftops if they had implemented it.

Calibration fixes those issues, having a player like the Panasonic UB820 helps a lot with disc content, optimiser on, SDR/BT2020 and for me a disc like the spears and Munsil UHD with a meter and Chromapure has got me an excellent image, never too dark unless it’s supposed to be dark, gold shadow detail, I recommend getting these projectors calibrated to get the best out of them, if a new Epson comes next year, it will likely have DTM.


----------



## Brandon Lopez

Luminated67 said:


> What’s your bit level, I bet it’s not 8Bit. I’m wondering is it connection method @Brandon Lopez is using rather than a regular optical HDMI


I’ve tried adjusting virtually every display setting on the AppleTV 4K and can’t get anything higher than 8-bit. Tried a new high speed HDMI cable from the AVR to the AppleTV. Still nothing. More often than not, I can’t even select 4K HDR in the devices video settings as it says it’s not supported.

I also checked the signal I’m getting from my Panasonic UB820 blu ray player, and while I’m able to get 12 bit 4:2:2, the color mode says Rec. 709 SDR no matter what settings I enable.

Starting to think it really is the connection method to the projector. Has anyone had success with a similar Cat6 transmitter connecting their AVR to their projector?


----------



## TTFORUM

Does anybody know how to get the 5050UB projector to completely reset its lens to the factory out of the box default / central position? The owners manual talks about re-setting the lens to the center position before transporting, but there doesn't seem be any way to actually accomplish that. I've tried the "Reset lens", but nothing seems to change. 

I just bought the projector and initially set it up while it was sitting off to the side on a shelf, but now I've mounted it to the ceiling with an almost perfect center of screen alignment. It looks great. However, the lens memory always seems to move several positions before going to the actual memory position (up, then slightly right, etc). I don't really know what it is doing, but it seems like perhaps it is going back to center and then shifting from there. I'm hoping that if I can adjust the projector's physical tilt using the ceiling mount to be as neutral / centered as possible that the lens memory will be able to operate faster.


----------



## sddawson

fredworld said:


> I got a reply from Epson regarding v1.04: _"Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it."_
> 
> I hope this helps those who have an interest. I'll proceed with the installation shortly.
> 
> .


Wow, a reply from Epson!? Can you please go back and ask what was new in 1.02/1.03? We’d all love to know!


----------



## fredworld

TTFORUM said:


> Does anybody know how to get the 5050UB projector to completely reset its lens to the factory out of the box default / central position?


Have you tried MENU>RESET>RESET LENS POSTION?


----------



## fredworld

sddawson said:


> Wow, a reply from Epson!? Can you please go back and ask what was new in 1.02/1.03? We’d all love to know!


*In this link* there are several comments from posters in this thread about v1.03.


----------



## hallohering

Just a heads up, perhaps it helps someone 

I was not able to connect my 6050UB to the new Xbox Series X correctly. I was always getting only 8bit color depth, no HDR etc. I checked cables, tried out two fiber optic cables (15m and 10m), nothing. Then I tried the HDMI 2 port on the 6050 and it worked. I don't know why, but it did not work on the HDMI 1 Port on the projector.


----------



## fakerus

hallohering said:


> Just a heads up, perhaps it helps someone
> 
> I was not able to connect my 6050UB to the new Xbox Series X correctly. I was always getting only 8bit color depth, no HDR etc. I checked cables, tried out two fiber optic cables (15m and 10m), nothing. Then I tried the HDMI 2 port on the 6050 and it worked. I don't know why, but it did not work on the HDMI 1 Port on the projector.


The hdmi 1 port can be finicky. I had all kinds of issues connecting my PS4 to it. Everything else worked fine. Switched to #2 and it’s fine. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

fakerus said:


> The hdmi 1 port can be finicky. I had all kinds of issues connecting my PS4 to it. Everything else worked fine. Switched to #2 and it’s fine.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Very interesting. The v1.04 update only affects HDMI 1. Perhaps because of its connectivity issues?


----------



## hallohering

fredworld said:


> Very interesting. The v1.04 update only affects HDMI 1. Perhaps because of its connectivity issues?


I can sort that out since I have updated my projector to 1.04 already


----------



## platinum00

shield users.. are you doing the 4k upscaling on the shield or the projector? I recently switched to doing it on the projector and its a better image.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

platinum00 said:


> shield users.. are you doing the 4k upscaling on the shield or the projector? I recently switched to doing it on the projector and its a better image.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


I noticed this straight away and why I now have two Bluray players, the Panasonic ub420 for 4KHDR because it’s HDR Optimiser and a Sony X700 to play 1080P discs.


----------



## platinum00

So you let the Sony X700 play 1080p and then have the projector upscale to 4K?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## plain fan

Does the Panasonic ub420 not have a video "pass through" option where it just sends the 1080p natively to the projector?


----------



## i007spectre

PS5 works great on my 5050 using HDMI 1.


----------



## fredworld

plain fan said:


> Does the Panasonic ub420 not have a video "pass through" option where it just sends the 1080p natively to the projector?


Do you mean? SetUp>HDMI>Resolution>1080p


----------



## Porknz

Wondering if someone can help me out. Not sure if this is my 5050ub or my Denon receiver, but it's not working right. I had it set up so that I could turn the projector on and it would access all of the other devices. Turning on the project seemed to fire everything else up. Then I would take the Denon remote and push cable for tv and it was ready to go, or hit media player and it would go right to all of our streaming services and they were ready to go, or I could hit blu-ray and it would bring up the blu-ray menu and I could play something from there. Recently I turn the projector on and it fires up the receiver, but when I push media, it switches to a black screen and says hdmi 1 no signal. The fire cube is running and I can use Alexa on it, but no streaming services come up, just a black screen. When I push blu-ray, black screen, hdmi 1 no signal, and the blu-ray player doesn't power up now, I have to grab the Panasonic remote and turn it on with that. My favorite part of having the new receiver was being able access everything easily, and I can't even figure out how to stream media or watch blu-rays now without using all of the remotes. Any ideas what we messed up? (I'm blaming it on my teenage daughters using the receiver to listen to music on amazon unlimited.  )


----------



## Luminated67

plain fan said:


> Does the Panasonic ub420 not have a video "pass through" option where it just sends the 1080p natively to the projector?


The problem with the Panasonic is if you leave it in Auto it looks at the display abilities and sets it’s output resolution to what the display is capable of which in the 5050 is 4K so it upscales everything to 4K and frankly the Epson does a better job at upscaling than the Panasonic.

So to watch regular Blurays you have to go into the menu hit setup and adjust the HDMI output to 1080P, personally I find that too much hassle which is why I have a second Bluray player to deal with 1080P discs.


----------



## platinum00

Same problem with the shield but I use Kodi for 99% of content and it auto switches resolution correctly.

What color space are you guys sending? Recently switched from 420 10bit to 422 12 bit and can tell a difference. Understand that most content it 420 10bit but for some reason it seems to work better.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Okay, unplugged the power and the hdmi cables from the fire cube and plugged them back in. Now it works again, but now the receiver isn't powering up when I turn the projector on. Is there some sort of HDMI cable dance I have to do to get everything working like it was before?

Thanks.



Porknz said:


> Wondering if someone can help me out. Not sure if this is my 5050ub or my Denon receiver, but it's not working right. I had it set up so that I could turn the projector on and it would access all of the other devices. Turning on the project seemed to fire everything else up. Then I would take the Denon remote and push cable for tv and it was ready to go, or hit media player and it would go right to all of our streaming services and they were ready to go, or I could hit blu-ray and it would bring up the blu-ray menu and I could play something from there. Recently I turn the projector on and it fires up the receiver, but when I push media, it switches to a black screen and says hdmi 1 no signal. The fire cube is running and I can use Alexa on it, but no streaming services come up, just a black screen. When I push blu-ray, black screen, hdmi 1 no signal, and the blu-ray player doesn't power up now, I have to grab the Panasonic remote and turn it on with that. My favorite part of having the new receiver was being able access everything easily, and I can't even figure out how to stream media or watch blu-rays now without using all of the remotes. Any ideas what we messed up? (I'm blaming it on my teenage daughters using the receiver to listen to music on amazon unlimited.  )


----------



## platinum00

CEC can be very finicky.

Try toggling power on/off in the AVR setup

On my 4500 it's setup/video/hdmi setup

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## hallohering

i007spectre said:


> PS5 works great on my 5050 using HDMI 1.


Thats good to hear! Will have to wait some days until it is released in Europe  What settings / modes do you use for ps5?


----------



## sddawson

fredworld said:


> *In this link* there are several comments from posters in this thread about v1.03.


Yeh, I’m aware of what people have found by trial and error, but with these seemingly major improvements why has Epson not made a song and dance about them? It would be very nice to get the list of changes from the horse’s mouth.


----------



## TTFORUM

Hello 5050ub'ers! I just finished getting my new projector and screen setup and wanted to share a picture and ask for advice!









I really love the image quality on reasonably light to bright scenes. It looks fantastic. However, I really am not loving how it looks in dark scenes (like in Mandalorian or Captain Marvel). The black levels just don't look great, IMO. I'm coming from a 75" Sony x900 which spoiled me for picture quality, but I couldn't resist jumping up to a bigger screen. I currently have the Silver Ticket white 120" screen which I think is a steal for the price. However, I have 30 days to return it and I'm wondering if I'll be happier if I moved on to the Elite Cinegrey3d or 5d with the 5050ub. I'd prefer to not break the bank on the screen and the 3D is still within wife approved budget.

On to my questions: Does anybody here have experience going from a standard matte white to the Cinegrey 3d or 5d with either the 5050ub or 6050ub in a light controlled room? What do you think? Was it worth it? Did it reduce the whites too much? Are you happy you did it? Would anybody suggest a different screen (need to keep budget at about $1000 or less)?

About my room:

Fully light controlled at night (except for some light reflection from walls). 75% light controlled during the day.
Dark grey walls with eggshell sheen which does reflect a bit (wish I'd done matte - too late)
Ceiling directly above screen is also dark grey with eggshell
120" screen with projector about 18' back
Thank you very much!

Additional views.


----------



## arnemetis

TTFORUM said:


> Hello 5050ub'ers! I just finished getting my new projector and screen setup and wanted to share a picture and ask for advice!
> 
> View attachment 3056405
> 
> 
> I really love the image quality on reasonably light to bright scenes. It looks fantastic. However, I really am not loving how it looks in dark scenes (like in Mandalorian or Captain Marvel). The black levels just don't look great, IMO. I'm coming from a 75" Sony x900 which spoiled me for picture quality, but I couldn't resist jumping up to a bigger screen. I currently have the Silver Ticket white 120" screen which I think is a steal for the price. However, I have 30 days to return it and I'm wondering if I'll be happier if I moved on to the Elite Cinegrey3d or 5d with the 5050ub. I'd prefer to not break the bank on the screen and the 3D is still within wife approved budget.
> 
> On to my questions: Does anybody here have experience going from a standard matte white to the Cinegrey 3d or 5d with either the 5050ub or 6050ub in a light controlled room? What do you think? Was it worth it? Did it reduce the whites too much? Are you happy you did it? Would anybody suggest a different screen (need to keep budget at about $1000 or less)?
> 
> About my room:
> 
> Fully light controlled at night (except for some light reflection from walls). 75% light controlled during the day.
> Dark grey walls with eggshell sheen which does reflect a bit (wish I'd done matte - too late)
> Ceiling directly above screen is also dark grey with eggshell
> 120" screen with projector about 18' back
> Thank you very much!


Try taking another photo, this one is clearly not exposed correctly so it gives a false sense of brightness. Look at the ceiling, it looks like it is off white at darkest. Unless your version of dark grey is really not that dark, in which case I would point to the walls & ceiling as a source of your problems. I have a white 100% screen (pretty sure it is a silver ticket as well) with my projector 11' away. My walls are also eggshell, but the color is a very dark purple. My ceiling is black drop tiles. I find my blacks to be quite excellent, I am coming from a BenQ HT1075 so the difference was pronounced for me. From what I read I don't think moving to a grey screen would help you out much, but let's see what others say.


----------



## Luminated67

Your room isn’t light controlled so blacks will always be a problem with a white screen and especially so if you intend to watch it with any lights on. An ALR screen like a Cinegrey will be much better, but I’d suggest getting samples for many different brands to find which looks best and since it’s a fixed frame you are after you might find that making a frame and buying the best possible ALR material you can afford will be an even better option.


----------



## rupedogg24

i007spectre said:


> PS5 works great on my 5050 using HDMI 1.


Do you get 4k/60 HDR? I'm having issues with getting it to output @ 4k/60 HDR

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## hallohering

rupedogg24 said:


> Do you get 4k/60 HDR? I'm having issues with getting it to output @ 4k/60 HDR
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Do you have a fiber optic cable? How long is it? Try HDMI Port 2


----------



## rekbones

TTFORUM said:


> Hello 5050ub'ers! I just finished getting my new projector and screen setup and wanted to share a picture and ask for advice!
> 
> View attachment 3056405
> 
> 
> I really love the image quality on reasonably light to bright scenes. It looks fantastic. However, I really am not loving how it looks in dark scenes (like in Mandalorian or Captain Marvel). The black levels just don't look great, IMO. I'm coming from a 75" Sony x900 which spoiled me for picture quality, but I couldn't resist jumping up to a bigger screen. I currently have the Silver Ticket white 120" screen which I think is a steal for the price. However, I have 30 days to return it and I'm wondering if I'll be happier if I moved on to the Elite Cinegrey3d or 5d with the 5050ub. I'd prefer to not break the bank on the screen and the 3D is still within wife approved budget.
> 
> On to my questions: Does anybody here have experience going from a standard matte white to the Cinegrey 3d or 5d with either then 5050ub or 6050ub in a light controlled room? What do you think? Was it worth it? Did it reduce the whites too much? Are you happy you did it? Would anybody suggest a different screen (need to keep budget at about $1000 or less)?
> 
> About my room:
> 
> Fully light controlled at night (except for some light reflection from walls). 75% light controlled during the day.
> Dark grey walls with eggshell sheen which does reflect a bit (wish I'd done matte - too late)
> Ceiling directly above screen is also dark grey with eggshell
> 120" screen with projector about 18' back
> Thank you very much!


The light colored surfaces shouldn't effect black level to a great extent in low apl scenes assuming zero ambient light from sources other the the projector. Of course you can never compare a projector (except maybe a JVC) to a TV for black level period. I would also calibrate at least your black/white level with a calibration disc ( there is a free one for down load on this sight somewhere).


----------



## quenthal

Age old question about blacks in SDR and HDR. Any guides/tips to crush blacks slightly?

For example when watching Witcher from Netflix or Star Wars from Disney in HDR, the black borders are slightly darker than blackest of black or the darkest shadows in real content.

I’d like to ”crush” only the few blackest of blacks, so the darkest content wouldn’t be only very dark grey.

With SDR there is no this problem, but otherwise it doesn’t look as good. HDR slider helps little, but I don’t want to dim the whole scale, only the darkest greys.


----------



## RRF

TTFORUM said:


> Hello 5050ub'ers! I just finished getting my new projector and screen setup and wanted to share a picture and ask for advice!
> 
> View attachment 3056405
> 
> 
> I really love the image quality on reasonably light to bright scenes. It looks fantastic. However, I really am not loving how it looks in dark scenes (like in Mandalorian or Captain Marvel). The black levels just don't look great, IMO. I'm coming from a 75" Sony x900 which spoiled me for picture quality, but I couldn't resist jumping up to a bigger screen. I currently have the Silver Ticket white 120" screen which I think is a steal for the price. However, I have 30 days to return it and I'm wondering if I'll be happier if I moved on to the Elite Cinegrey3d or 5d with the 5050ub. I'd prefer to not break the bank on the screen and the 3D is still within wife approved budget.
> 
> On to my questions: Does anybody here have experience going from a standard matte white to the Cinegrey 3d or 5d with either the 5050ub or 6050ub in a light controlled room? What do you think? Was it worth it? Did it reduce the whites too much? Are you happy you did it? Would anybody suggest a different screen (need to keep budget at about $1000 or less)?
> 
> About my room:
> 
> Fully light controlled at night (except for some light reflection from walls). 75% light controlled during the day.
> Dark grey walls with eggshell sheen which does reflect a bit (wish I'd done matte - too late)
> Ceiling directly above screen is also dark grey with eggshell
> 120" screen with projector about 18' back
> Thank you very much!


If it were me, I would first repaint the ceiling between the projector and the screen to a flat sheen. Then re-evaluate. Any reflection off the ceiling will effect black levels.


----------



## TTFORUM

arnemetis said:


> Try taking another photo, this one is clearly not exposed correctly so it gives a false sense of brightness. Look at the ceiling, it looks like it is off white at darkest. Unless your version of dark grey is really not that dark, in which case I would point to the walls & ceiling as a source of your problems.


I know it can be hard to tell how dark a paint color is because of how the camera exposes it. Here is a picture of where the dark grey wall transitions to another room which is light grey next to white trim. Hopefully this shows that the walls in the whole theater room are indeed a dark grey.









Here are two pictures with the lights on. Camera + monitor can make them look different than they really are, but hopefully above pic helps to demonstrate the darkness of the walls. There is a beam going through the room. The ceiling on the side of the beam by the projector is the grey. The ceiling on the other is is off white. However, the beam is about 10 feet back, so I don't think the ceiling on that side of the beam affects the image much.

















arnemetis said:


> My ceiling is black drop tiles.


Did you have drywall before? How hard were they to install? Any recommendations on specific ones?



Luminated67 said:


> Your room isn’t light controlled so blacks will always be a problem with a white screen and especially so if you intend to watch it with any lights on. An ALR screen like a Cinegrey will be much better, but I’d suggest getting samples for many different brands to find which looks best and since it’s a fixed frame you are after you might find that making a frame and buying the best possible ALR material you can afford will be an even better option.


I feel like it is pretty well light controlled. I have been thinking of adding some black acoustic wall and ceiling panels up next to the screen. I notice that you have a grey screen. How well were you able to calibrate the whites? Do you feel like you lost any brightness going with grey?


----------



## arnemetis

TTFORUM said:


> Did you have drywall before? How hard were they to install? Any recommendations on specific ones?


This was in my basement, open joists above with lots of plumbing and electrical so I opted for a drop ceiling to allow access. I just got the black armstrong ones through lowes, pretty sure I had to order them as they aren't typically carried in store. They're certainly a flat finish. Installing a drop ceiling track is pretty easy in an open space, when you have lots of box outs or irregular walls is when it slows down but it's nothing special.

I don't think that's a good move for you anyway, considering switching to a drop ceiling, your comparison shot shows it is quite dark. Personally I run with the setting on natural, unless it's hdr content then I use digital cinema. I also run medium lamp power. Not sure what else to suggest.


----------



## mburress12

I bought the 5050UB recently (about 105 hours on it) and have not been entirely happy with it. Have others seen banding in lower light scenes from non-4k content? I'm noticing it with multiple streaming sources like Netflix and Amazon. It amazes me that this would be an issue with a modern projector, especially one at this price point.










Setup:
Sources - Sony UBP-X700 blu-ray player; PS4
Pioneer VSX-LX303
Silver Ticket 120" screen, 1.1 gain
AmazonBasics 4K HDMI cable
Distances to screen - seating: about 10 1/2 ft; projector: about 13 ft

Edit: I updated the firmware. The room is no-light.


----------



## Hawkmarket

TTFORUM said:


> I know it can be hard to tell how dark a paint color is because of how the camera exposes it. Here is a picture of where the dark grey wall transitions to another room which is light grey next to white trim. Hopefully this shows that the walls in the whole theater room are indeed a dark grey.
> 
> View attachment 3056532
> 
> 
> Here are two pictures with the lights on. Camera + monitor can make them look different than they really are, but hopefully above pic helps to demonstrate the darkness of the walls. There is a beam going through the room. The ceiling on the side of the beam by the projector is the grey. The ceiling on the other is is off white. However, the beam is about 10 feet back, so I don't think the ceiling on that side of the beam affects the image much.
> 
> View attachment 3056526
> View attachment 3056527
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you have drywall before? How hard were they to install? Any recommendations on specific ones?
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like it is pretty well light controlled. I have been thinking of adding some black acoustic wall and ceiling panels up next to the screen. I notice that you have a grey screen. How well were you able to calibrate the whites? Do you feel like you lost any brightness going with grey?


Looks to me to get the extra blacks you are going to need the screen to do some of the heavy lifting. You've got a 120" screen so if you're using natural mode you're likely getting about 1,600 color accurate lumens for about 36fl on a neutral screen. You can either go dark and get something like the SI Slate .8 or brighter and get 1.2. You're either getting 29fl or 43fl on axis. Either is acceptable and it looks like you don't have much off axis viewing which is helpful with alr. Be careful to make sure you have the appropriate throw distance for alr screens. 

Even if you just switched to a plain grey material you may dig down deeper into the blacks which it sounds like you prefer without hot spotting or sparkling. You might try just ordering some material (much larger than a sample) and put it up to see if you like it. Samples struggle to tell the whole story so order a larger piece of material. You can order 90" 16:9 Carl's grey material for less than $50 and see if it scratches your itch before you invest much more into it. You'll lose a little in the whites but the eyes are pretty forgiving to that when it's the entire image that experiences the drop in exchange for the lower black floor. Elite Screens also sells their ALR screen material in larger swaths and the larger the sample piece the more you can accurately see how off axis viewing is altered by the alr screen material.


----------



## rupedogg24

hallohering said:


> Do you have a fiber optic cable? How long is it? Try HDMI Port 2


I have 18gbps HDMI cords from monoprice. Onkyo RZ840 to projector. I may need to upgrade to a fiber optic HDMI cord(s). 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

mburress12 said:


> I bought the 5050UB recently (about 105 hours on it) and have not been entirely happy with it. Have others seen banding in lower light scenes from non-4k content? I'm noticing it with multiple streaming sources like Netflix and Amazon. It amazes me that this would be an issue with a modern projector, especially one at this price point.
> 
> View attachment 3056621
> 
> 
> Setup:
> Sources - Sony UBP-X700 blu-ray player; PS4
> Pioneer VSX-LX303
> Silver Ticket 120" screen, 1.1 gain
> AmazonBasics 4K HDMI cable
> Distances to screen - seating: about 10 1/2 ft; projector: about 13 ft
> 
> Edit: I updated the firmware. The room is no-light.


you should not have banding.. it's something in your settings or calibration.


What color space are you using on the X700. Banding can happen for a couple reasons but try changing the settings on the player to 422 10/12 bit. If it's set to something 8 bit than can cause it pretty easily.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

arnemetis said:


> This was in my basement, open joists above with lots of plumbing and electrical so I opted for a drop ceiling to allow access. I just got the black armstrong ones through lowes, pretty sure I had to order them as they aren't typically carried in store. They're certainly a flat finish. Installing a drop ceiling track is pretty easy in an open space, when you have lots of box outs or irregular walls is when it slows down but it's nothing special.
> 
> I don't think that's a good move for you anyway, considering switching to a drop ceiling, your comparison shot shows it is quite dark. Personally I run with the setting on natural, unless it's hdr content then I use digital cinema. I also run medium lamp power. Not sure what else to suggest.


I went with the soundsulate black acoustical drop ceiling. I "think" it does a better job absorbing sound. There like a black felt material and look pretty good. You can still see the ceiling a little though. I was thinking of wrapping the front 2 rows of panels in velvet. I have it around the screen and it works perfect.










Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## arnemetis

platinum00 said:


> I went with the soundsulate black acoustical drop ceiling. I "think" it does a better job absorbing sound. There like a black felt material and look pretty good. You can still see the ceiling a little though. I was thinking of wrapping the front 2 rows of panels in velvet. I have it around the screen and it works perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Here's a few shots I took tonight. Went with a plain white track, thought it looked cool and wouldn't significantly affect the screen. With some bright scenes the ceiling tiles light up a bit, but while watching it isn't distracting. Don't criticize the content too much, 720p source media with the epson enhancing the image and upscaling to 4k enhancement.


----------



## hopefullguy

look great.. can i ask where you buy the black velvet from? i am having trouble in Australia buying the "velvet triple black".

i have contacted www.ifabric.com (or tried to as they never reply to my emails)

any other suggestions?


----------



## hallohering

rupedogg24 said:


> I have 18gbps HDMI cords from monoprice. Onkyo RZ840 to projector. I may need to upgrade to a fiber optic HDMI cord(s).
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Yes, try a fiber optic cable. Normal one does not work for me


----------



## platinum00

hopefullguy said:


> look great.. can i ask where you buy the black velvet from? i am having trouble in Australia buying the "velvet triple black".
> 
> i have contacted www.ifabric.com (or tried to as they never reply to my emails)
> 
> any other suggestions?


Joann fabric is where I got mine. They had it 50% off the other day. Royality 3 is the stuff to get

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

arnemetis said:


> Here's a few shots I took tonight. Went with a plain white track, thought it looked cool and wouldn't significantly affect the screen. With some bright scenes the ceiling tiles light up a bit, but while watching it isn't distracting. Don't criticize the content too much, 720p source media with the epson enhancing the image and upscaling to 4k enhancement.


looks good. I would say about the same as what mine look like in bright scenes.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

rupedogg24 said:


> I have 18gbps HDMI cords from monoprice. Onkyo RZ840 to projector. I may need to upgrade to a fiber optic HDMI cord(s).
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


Don't over spend on an HDMI cable. Blue Jeans Cables has active HDMI cables that work flawlessly, and are very reasonable. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## TTFORUM

Hawkmarket said:


> Looks to me to get the extra blacks you are going to need the screen to do some of the heavy lifting. You've got a 120" screen so if you're using natural mode you're likely getting about 1,600 color accurate lumens for about 36fl on a neutral screen. You can either go dark and get something like the SI Slate .8 or brighter and get 1.2. You're either getting 29fl or 43fl on axis. Either is acceptable and it looks like you don't have much off axis viewing which is helpful with alr. Be careful to make sure you have the appropriate throw distance for alr screens.
> 
> Even if you just switched to a plain grey material you may dig down deeper into the blacks which it sounds like you prefer without hot spotting or sparkling. You might try just ordering some material (much larger than a sample) and put it up to see if you like it. Samples struggle to tell the whole story so order a larger piece of material. You can order 90" 16:9 Carl's grey material for less than $50 and see if it scratches your itch before you invest much more into it. You'll lose a little in the whites but the eyes are pretty forgiving to that when it's the entire image that experiences the drop in exchange for the lower black floor. Elite Screens also sells their ALR screen material in larger swaths and the larger the sample piece the more you can accurately see how off axis viewing is altered by the alr screen material.


Thanks for the thoughtful response! I'm going to look into getting some sample materials. Maybe all I need is the grey without ALR.


----------



## bpmurr

i007spectre said:


> PS5 works great on my 5050 using HDMI 1.


Same here as well. My Xbox Series X is also working great with Firmware 1.04.


----------



## hallohering

bpmurr said:


> Same here as well as my Xbox Series X with Firmware 1.04.


Same question as always  Which settings do you use?


----------



## fredworld

bpmurr said:


> Same here as well. My Xbox Series X is also working great with Firmware 1.04.


So far, I've not had the dreaded on-screen "no signal" message when changing source inputs, consequently, switching inputs on my prepro has gotten faster by a few seconds with 1.04.


----------



## Luminated67

I thought I had downloaded v1.04 last time but it must have been v1.03 because I checked yesterday so I did it this afternoon at work on to a USB and uploaded the new firmware tonight.

I had started to watch Back to the Future 3 last night and with it still fresh in my memory as to how it looked I started to resume where I had left off and to me the HRD appears to be better again to that of version 1.03. I honestly don’t know if it’s a palosebo effect but it’s subtle the image looks slightly brighter despite not adjusting the HDR slider because that was the first thing I looked it and dare I say the images appear looks slightly better.


----------



## platinum00

I recalibrated when I went to 1.04.. did you guys?

Im still running SDR calibration for HDR with slider at 6.. 

Someday I'll figure out how to do HDR cals.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## i007spectre

hallohering said:


> Thats good to hear! Will have to wait some days until it is released in Europe  What settings / modes do you use for ps5?


Been using Dynamic mode calibrated for HDR.


----------



## Kieran

Is anyone using the wireless version of these projectors? I'm seeing a price difference of roughly $300 which isn't that much when you consider the convenience factor plus the cost of a good HDMI cable to do a 30ft run.
Are there any issues with the wireless versions? Is image quality just as good? Is there a lot more lag (not a big gamer, but still... occasionally)?


----------



## nikolindb

nikolindb said:


> Lately I've noticed this strange green hue with my Epson 6050. I've bought it a year ago and have clocked +1000h with it. Any idea what is causing this? It remains there all the time...here's a photo with blank screen to really show what it looks like:
> View attachment 3053384


Update on this. Sent it to Epson to UK (I live in Finland). DHL came to pick it up from our door. Got it back already yesterday, so it took only less than a week! Great service. Now picture is OK again. According to service report, they replaced the optical engine. Good thing this has lens memory, so adjusting the image on place was easy.


----------



## Luminated67

platinum00 said:


> I recalibrated when I went to 1.04.. did you guys?
> 
> Im still running SDR calibration for HDR with slider at 6..
> 
> Someday I'll figure out how to do HDR cals.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


I have done nothing as yet, hopefully my pro calibrator can get to me once all this sh1t is over and some form of normality can resume, the switch to a grey screen will have had some affect on my gamma, colours and grey scale so no real point messing with anything. The supplier of the screen says the adjustments needed are very subtle so will wait until done properly.

I can’t say I’m noticing any change.


----------



## nikolindb

I have an Apple TV hooked up to Denon x2500h receiver. Projector is 6050ub. When content is played and it's switching from SDR to HDR or back to SDR (Netflix for example), there is a noticeable pause with blank screen, usually it takes 5 or more seconds, until screen comes back on, now showing HDR/SDR image. Same thing happening with ps4 pro sdr/hdr switch. Any ideas why it's doing so? Could it be the HDMI cables i'm using?


----------



## AVTimme

nikolindb said:


> I have an Apple TV hooked up to Denon x2500h receiver. Projector is 6050ub. When content is played and it's switching from SDR to HDR or back to SDR (Netflix for example), there is a noticeable pause with blank screen, usually it takes 5 or more seconds, until screen comes back on, now showing HDR/SDR image. Same thing happening with ps4 pro sdr/hdr switch. Any ideas why it's doing so? Could it be the HDMI cables i'm using?


Its the projector itself that has a slow hdmi handshake unfortunately


----------



## TTFORUM

Kieran said:


> Is anyone using the wireless version of these projectors? I'm seeing a price difference of roughly $300 which isn't that much when you consider the convenience factor plus the cost of a good HDMI cable to do a 30ft run.
> Are there any issues with the wireless versions? Is image quality just as good? Is there a lot more lag (not a big gamer, but still... occasionally)?


I went against it because it only does 4k @ 30hz. My Xbox One X sends a 4k @60hz, which I'm able to verify by going to the Projector Info screen when connected via HDMI. This guy in a best buy review said it takes longer to reconnect after switching sources. I can't verify that, though.


----------



## TTFORUM

bpmurr said:


> Same here as well. My Xbox Series X is also working great with Firmware 1.04.


I also upgraded to 1.04 and my Xbox One X (not series X) is working fine at 4k 60hz. So is my Roku Ultra in 4k HDR. Both work fine on HDMI 1.

Side note, I temporarily thought the update had problems because I simultaneously switched to a 50 ft HDMI cable (from 35 foot) to give me a bit more slack on the cable. With the 50 ft cable, none of my 4k sources would come through anymore. It just gave a "HDMI Not Supported" message. I switched back to the 35 foot and everything works fine again.


----------



## Kieran

TTFORUM said:


> I went against it because it only does 4k @ 30hz. My Xbox One X sends a 4k @60hz, which I'm able to verify by going to the Projector Info screen when connected via HDMI. This guy in a best buy review said it takes longer to reconnect after switching sources. I can't verify that, though.


I had not realized that bandwidth limitation. That makes for an easy decision then. $300 saved.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

I am in the early stages of setting up my 6050ub. In fact, I have only gone into the menu and looked at all the features. I have read in the past that the projector should go through a cooling phase when triggered to shut down. Mine, however shuts down immediately. Is there a function i need to choose in the menu so it cools down properly or is it simply due to the short duration that the projector is running?


----------



## acrackl

My Epson 5050UB should be coming in Thursday. I have a question about projector placement. Can I place it on a high shelf at the back of the room, behind seating area? The lens would be a few inches (~5 inches) below the top of the screen.

My question is regarding the image inversion - will the image be upside down? I don’t want to set the projector upside down on the shelf - much rather mount it, if this is the case.

Ceiling mount isn’t ruled out, just that the joists run perpendicular to the screen and the projector will be offset (slightly from the center), and I would need an angle to mount (sloping ceiling). 

Thanks.


----------



## Sorny

acrackl said:


> My Epson 5050UB should be coming in Thursday. I have a question about projector placement. Can I place it on a high shelf at the back of the room, behind seating area? The lens would be a few inches (~5 inches) below the top of the screen.
> 
> My question is regarding the image inversion - will the image be upside down? I don’t want to set the projector upside down on the shelf - much rather mount it, if this is the case.
> 
> Ceiling mount isn’t ruled out, just that the joists run perpendicular to the screen and the projector will be offset (slightly from the center), and I would need an angle to mount (sloping ceiling).
> 
> Thanks.


The 5050 is incredibly flexible in mounting. Vertical position in a normal room is pretty much somewhere between floor and ceiling, inverted or right side up. So on a shelf, not inverted, will most likely work without issue.


----------



## platinum00

what do you guys have your video range set to. I have it set to limited (16-235) as I have read that is the better option for media devices. PC input uses the full(0-255).

however when doing contrast adjustments with limited, I can barley get the 17 to flash in the image below. Contrast adjustments after 52 don't do anything. If I set to full , I can get all to show and dial the contrast back to get 17 to flash.

my device chain is Kodi on nvidea shield -- denon4500 -- epson 5050.

I don't know why I am messing with this as my picture looks good. lol.
















Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

acrackl said:


> My Epson 5050UB should be coming in Thursday. I have a question about projector placement. Can I place it on a high shelf at the back of the room, behind seating area? The lens would be a few inches (~5 inches) below the top of the screen.
> 
> My question is regarding the image inversion - will the image be upside down? I don’t want to set the projector upside down on the shelf - much rather mount it, if this is the case.
> 
> Ceiling mount isn’t ruled out, just that the joists run perpendicular to the screen and the projector will be offset (slightly from the center), and I would need an angle to mount (sloping ceiling).
> 
> Thanks.


you will be fine.. it has an option to flip the image and has lens shift to accommodate fairly large variances in off center imagining.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## acrackl

Sorny said:


> The 5050 is incredibly flexible in mounting. Vertical position in a normal room is pretty much somewhere between floor and ceiling, inverted or right side up. So on a shelf, not inverted, will most likely work without issue.





platinum00 said:


> you will be fine.. it has an option to flip the image and has lens shift to accommodate fairly large variances in off center imagining.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Thanks. My plan is to play around with the position when it arrives and am holding back on getting a mount at this point.


----------



## platinum00

are your rooms this dusty. doesn't show up in picture but good lord.

anyone using anything to control the level of dust near the projector ?










Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## RRF

TTFORUM said:


> I know it can be hard to tell how dark a paint color is because of how the camera exposes it. Here is a picture of where the dark grey wall transitions to another room which is light grey next to white trim. Hopefully this shows that the walls in the whole theater room are indeed a dark grey.
> 
> View attachment 3056532
> 
> 
> Here are two pictures with the lights on. Camera + monitor can make them look different than they really are, but hopefully above pic helps to demonstrate the darkness of the walls. There is a beam going through the room. The ceiling on the side of the beam by the projector is the grey. The ceiling on the other is is off white. However, the beam is about 10 feet back, so I don't think the ceiling on that side of the beam affects the image much.
> 
> View attachment 3056526
> View attachment 3056527
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you have drywall before? How hard were they to install? Any recommendations on specific ones?
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like it is pretty well light controlled. I have been thinking of adding some black acoustic wall and ceiling panels up next to the screen. I notice that you have a grey screen. How well were you able to calibrate the whites? Do you feel like you lost any brightness going with grey?


Those photos show a *lot* *of reflection* off the ceiling. No matter how well the room is light controlled, or which screen you use, you will still have issues due to light from the projector bouncing off the ceiling and hitting the screen, and light from the screen reflecting off the ceiling lighting up the room.


----------



## RRF

Did the price recently jump up on replacement lamps?
I don't remember them being so much the last time I checked.
_....they are also out of stock everywhere..._


----------



## fredworld

RRF said:


> Did the price recently jump up on replacement lamps?
> I don't remember them being so much the last time I checked.
> _....they are also out of stock everywhere..._


Here you go. Nine in stock as of this writing:*https://www.myprojectorlamps.com/projector-bulbs/Epson/ELPLP89.html*


----------



## Gjlaplante

platinum00 said:


> are your rooms this dusty. doesn't show up in picture but good lord.
> 
> anyone using anything to control the level of dust near the projector ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk





https://www.amazon.com/Winix-5500-2-Purifier-PlasmaWave-Reducing/dp/B01D8DAYII/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-nc-drs1_0?crid=INANAU41ENGD&cv_ct_cx=winix+5500-2+air+purifier&dchild=1&keywords=winix+5500-2+air+purifier&pd_rd_i=B01D8DAYII&pd_rd_r=91dd62b5-6ecd-4a60-b011-05c92d245af3&pd_rd_w=XwhEb&pd_rd_wg=Aeb46&pf_rd_p=84ce0865-d9ca-42e3-87ed-168be8f93162&pf_rd_r=3N8GJ9X5W14VJE6Z2TME&psc=1&qid=1605755407&sprefix=winix%2Caps%2C209&sr=1-1-88388c6d-14b8-4f70-90f6-05ac39e80cc0


----------



## Gjlaplante

platinum00 said:


> what do you guys have your video range set to. I have it set to limited (16-235) as I have read that is the better option for media devices. PC input uses the full(0-255).
> 
> however when doing contrast adjustments with limited, I can barley get the 17 to flash in the image below. Contrast adjustments after 52 don't do anything. If I set to full , I can get all to show and dial the contrast back to get 17 to flash.
> 
> my device chain is Kodi on nvidea shield -- denon4500 -- epson 5050.
> 
> I don't know why I am messing with this as my picture looks good. lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
> That is not the pattern to set Contrast, that is the patterns for Brightness. Digital black is 16 so use brightness control for that.


----------



## Gjlaplante

platinum00 said:


> I recalibrated when I went to 1.04.. did you guys?
> 
> Im still running SDR calibration for HDR with slider at 6..
> 
> Someday I'll figure out how to do HDR cals.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


To do HDR calibration you must use a screen multiplier in the software to fool it in to thinking the image is brighter than it really is to calibrate. in example a reference monitor should put out at least 600 nits in HDR so my 5050 puts out 60 nits in digital cinema. So I would set a screen multiplier [Y] of 10 to make the software think I was using a 600 nit display instead of a 60 nit projector.


----------



## platinum00

Gjlaplante said:


> https://www.amazon.com/Winix-5500-2-Purifier-PlasmaWave-Reducing/dp/B01D8DAYII/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-nc-drs1_0?crid=INANAU41ENGD&cv_ct_cx=winix+5500-2+air+purifier&dchild=1&keywords=winix+5500-2+air+purifier&pd_rd_i=B01D8DAYII&pd_rd_r=91dd62b5-6ecd-4a60-b011-05c92d245af3&pd_rd_w=XwhEb&pd_rd_wg=Aeb46&pf_rd_p=84ce0865-d9ca-42e3-87ed-168be8f93162&pf_rd_r=3N8GJ9X5W14VJE6Z2TME&psc=1&qid=1605755407&sprefix=winix%2Caps%2C209&sr=1-1-88388c6d-14b8-4f70-90f6-05ac39e80cc0


any air purifier do or is this one unique ?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

correct.. I was just showing the difference on the black level with limited vs full. 

so limited is ok then?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

Gjlaplante said:


> To do HDR calibration you must use a screen multiplier in the software to fool it in to thinking the image is brighter than it really is to calibrate. in example a reference monitor should put out at least 600 nits in HDR so my 5050 puts out 60 nits in digital cinema. So I would set a screen multiplier [Y] of 10 to make the software think I was using a 600 nit display instead of a 60 nit projector.


good tip. to confirm.. your taking a nit value using 100% white patch and using that to determine you multiplier ?


Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## ScudDawg

platinum00 said:


> any air purifier do or is this one unique ?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Any should work, I have a Levoit model that does a good job.


----------



## wookiegr

I've been using an air filter in my theater room for a few weeks now. It helps but will never eliminate the snow you'll see. In my situation, I have black velvet panels lining nearly the entire room as well as acoustic panels and of course a carpet. When the subwoofers are full nuclear I can smell the fabric on the acoustic panels and know that more particles are getting stirred up. My only game plan is to run the air filter for a while prior to watching a movie, turn it off when watching then turn it back on when finished. Mine has a timer so i can set it for an hour or two. Bottom line, there is no way to control the dust, you can only tame it for a short time. Luckily, you can't see it on screen when the movie is going.


----------



## platinum00

sounds good.. thanks. i have some lighting automation so can turn the filter on/off when the projector is running. Ill play with that this weekend.


----------



## RRF

fredworld said:


> Here you go. Nine in stock as of this writing:*https://www.myprojectorlamps.com/projector-bulbs/Epson/ELPLP89.html*


Thanks ! I was trying to remember that site...I bought all my Panasonic lamps from there, and never had a complaint.
They also have a Canadian site, which is a bonus.
Curious though...their list of compatible projectors does not include the 5050UB...but the lamp ID and model # is the same.
Anyways, my order is in. Even though I only have 150 hours on mine, always good to have a spare.


----------



## rekbones

RRF said:


> Thanks ! I was trying to remember that site...I bought all my Panasonic lamps from there, and never had a complaint.
> They also have a Canadian site, which is a bonus.
> Curious though...their list of compatible projectors does not include the 5050UB...but the lamp ID and model # is the same.
> Anyways, my order is in. Even though I only have 150 hours on mine, always good to have a spare.


Word of advice, change your lamp out as soon as you get it and keep the original as a spare. Your new lamp if not used for the time it's under warranty so when you eventually put it in it maybe defective then your SOL.


----------



## Brandon Lopez

Luminated67 said:


> What’s your bit level, I bet it’s not 8Bit. I’m wondering is it connection method @Brandon Lopez is using rather than a regular optical HDMI


Update on my issue with the projector only getting an 8-bit 4:2:0 signal from my video sources. I swapped out the HDMI via Cat6 send/received system with a 50ft slimrun HDR capable fiber HDMI cable from Monoprice. Now getting 12-bit 4:2:2 with none of the previous banding issues. Thanks for the help. Pretty pissed I got stuck with that expensive ineffective connection method, but happy that issue was resolved!

One other issue I wanted to ask about...I'm seeing other horizontal lines/some blurriness in certain scenes with white/lighter colors. It's noticeable in some stationary scenes, but very very noticeable when the scene pans. I've attached a few images - hopefully it's clear what I'm talking about. Is this another banding issue, or perhaps something with the lens or the screen that needs to be cleaned (I've dusted the screen very carefully per the manufacturer's instructions)? I'm hoping to have the projector properly calibrated very soon if that's something that might help reign in these issues.


----------



## Luminated67

^Its almost always the cable that’s the issue, we have been here so many times before and it’s ended up the cable. Anyway just happy you are sorted.


----------



## RRF

Brandon Lopez said:


> Update on my issue with the projector only getting an 8-bit 4:2:0 signal from my video sources. I swapped out the HDMI via Cat6 send/received system with a 50ft slimrun HDR capable fiber HDMI cable from Monoprice. Now getting 12-bit 4:2:2 with none of the previous banding issues. Thanks for the help. Pretty pissed I got stuck with that expensive ineffective connection method, but happy that issue was resolved!
> One other issue I wanted to ask about...I'm seeing other horizontal lines/some blurriness in certain scenes with white/lighter colors. It's noticeable in some stationary scenes, but very very noticeable when the scene pans. I've attached a few images - hopefully it's clear what I'm talking about. Is this another banding issue, or perhaps something with the lens or the screen that needs to be cleaned (I've dusted the screen very carefully per the manufacturer's instructions)? I'm hoping to have the projector properly calibrated very soon if that's something that might help reign in these issues.


Can't beat Monoprice. I am using 2 of their 30ft HDMI cables purchased in 2008, and they are working fine. Very thick cables however.


----------



## rupedogg24

bpmurr said:


> Same here as well. My Xbox Series X is also working great with Firmware 1.04.


Found a fix for my issue with my Onkyo RZ and the PS5. I'm literally just finding this out after a year of owning it that I had to turn on enhanced HDMI on the Onkyo to get the full capabilities of the 5050. 

PS5 now operates in full 4k HDR 60hz.









Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## AVTimme

platinum00 said:


> are your rooms this dusty. doesn't show up in picture but good lord.
> 
> anyone using anything to control the level of dust near the projector ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


yes it is that dusty


----------



## TTFORUM

Hawkmarket said:


> Looks to me to get the extra blacks you are going to need the screen to do some of the heavy lifting. You've got a 120" screen so if you're using natural mode you're likely getting about 1,600 color accurate lumens for about 36fl on a neutral screen. You can either go dark and get something like the SI Slate .8 or brighter and get 1.2. You're either getting 29fl or 43fl on axis. Either is acceptable and it looks like you don't have much off axis viewing which is helpful with alr. Be careful to make sure you have the appropriate throw distance for alr screens.


I've ordered a few samples, and I have a follow up question for you. I have a friend who offered to sell me his two year old 120" Screen Innovations Zero Edge (not pro) with a pure white screen for $750. The SI website says it has 10% ALR. Do you think that would make any difference over my current Silver Ticket white screen?


----------



## TTFORUM

Brandon Lopez said:


> Update on my issue with the projector only getting an 8-bit 4:2:0 signal from my video sources. I swapped out the HDMI via Cat6 send/received system with a 50ft slimrun HDR capable fiber HDMI cable from Monoprice. Now getting 12-bit 4:2:2 with none of the previous banding issues. Thanks for the help. Pretty pissed I got stuck with that expensive ineffective connection method, but happy that issue was resolved!


I just switched from a cable matters 35 ft HDMI cable to an Amazon Basics 50' fiber cable and it seems to be working beautifully. I tried going to a 50ft high quality standard HDMI and my projector wouldn't even recognize that there was a signal.


----------



## citsur86

Hey all. Just purchased the 5050UB for my home theater that’s just about completed. It’ll be in a room I had our home builders put together. I had them run 2 HDMI cables. One is this one 



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SFCH81K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_aXoUFbWPAK6G2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1



The other, as a backup was this one



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015121JHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_-ZoUFb1FBNR5A



Think I’ll run into any issues with the projector picking it up? It’ll be coming from a Marantz SR6011


----------



## misterg51

citsur86 said:


> Hey all. Just purchased the 5050UB for my home theater that’s just about completed. It’ll be in a room I had our home builders put together. I had them run 2 HDMI cables. One is this one
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SFCH81K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_aXoUFbWPAK6G2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> The other, as a backup was this oneATZEBE
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015121JHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_-ZoUFb1FBNR5A
> 
> 
> 
> Think I’ll run into any issues with the projector picking it up? It’ll be coming from a Marantz SR6011


I have had the best luck with ATZEBE fiber. RuiPro failed. Audioquest Chocolate copper was great but I read that over time HDMI ports would fail. Decided the fiber looked better, how I don't know....


----------



## lamotia

Hi all,
I've recently purchased the UB6050 for my home setup. I've connected it to my Yamaha RX-A860 receiver. However when I switch to my PS4 PRO or PS5 and I try to play a game that's in HDR I get the following message - "The resolution is set to 1080p because the connected device doesn't support 2160p/HDR". This is really strange since I'm able to watch videos that are 2160p/HDR. Also I'm using a 18Gbit HDMI 2.0 cable that should in practice be able to handle 2160p/HDR/30 FPS at least. What am I doing wrong? Is there a specific option that I should enable somewhere to make it work? Is buying an HDMI 2.1 cable going to fix this for me since the UB6050 only has HDMI 2.0 ports?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## wookiegr

lamotia said:


> Hi all,
> I've recently purchased the UB6050 for my home setup. I've connected it to my Yamaha RX-A860 receiver. However when I switch to my PS4 PRO or PS5 and I try to play a game that's in HDR I get the following message - "The resolution is set to 1080p because the connected device doesn't support 2160p/HDR". This is really strange since I'm able to watch videos that are 2160p/HDR. Also I'm using a 18Gbit HDMI 2.0 cable that should in practice be able to handle 2160p/HDR/30 FPS at least. What am I doing wrong? Is there a specific option that I should enable somewhere to make it work? Is buying an HDMI 2.1 cable going to fix this for me since the UB6050 only has HDMI 2.0 ports?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I have the same problem. There's a problem with the way the new consoles output hdmi 2.1. I think it forces bandwidth that hdmi 2.0 can't handle as opposed to just auto detecting hdmi type.


----------



## lamotia

That would explain the problem with the PS5. However the PS4 PRO has HDMI 2.0 for output. I should also mention that I'm using a HDMI 2.0 cable for my TV set that has only HDMI 2.0 inputs and I'm able to get an 4K HDR picture on it. The signal also passes through the same Yamaha RX-A860 receiver that I'm using for the projector.

It's also really strange how I cannot output any 4K HDR picture since in theory for 4K HDR 30 FPS a simple HDMI 1.4 should be more than enough.


----------



## twistone

New 5050 (refurb) owner here, just upgraded from an ancient Epson 710HD. I talked myself into the 5050 after having first settled on a 5030 refurb. I'm happy I went a little higher.

Anyway, questions - I searched how to check total hours in the service menu but am confused at why the total hours would be less than the total lamp hours?

I have put 23 hours on the lamp. The service menu says there are 27 total lamp hours, 23 total operating hours and 0 lamp changes.

At first I thought that meant the unit was basically new, had been run for 4 hours and then had the lamp hours reset when I bought it. But the total operating hours would still at least be 27 in that case, right?

I'm just trying to get an idea of how many hours are on the chassis.

Thanks!


----------



## platinum00

I would bet it had 4 hours on it before it was sent in to service the first time.. not sure on that but that's my guess

menu/info/projector info is a easier way to check current lamp hours 

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## xplorar

Any idea when the next projector upgrade from Epson may happen? I am almost set on buying 6050UB but being pressured by wifey to wait till Apr 2021 for it. Is it possible that 6060UB may become available by then?


----------



## rekbones

twistone said:


> New 5050 (refurb) owner here, just upgraded from an ancient Epson 710HD. I talked myself into the 5050 after having first settled on a 5030 refurb. I'm happy I went a little higher.
> 
> Anyway, questions - I searched how to check total hours in the service menu but am confused at why the total hours would be less than the total lamp hours?
> 
> I have put 23 hours on the lamp. The service menu says there are 27 total lamp hours, 23 total operating hours and 0 lamp changes.
> 
> At first I thought that meant the unit was basically new, had been run for 4 hours and then had the lamp hours reset when I bought it. But the total operating hours would still at least be 27 in that case, right?
> 
> I'm just trying to get an idea of how many hours are on the chassis.
> 
> Thanks!
> View attachment 3059019


Most projectors (not sure about the Epson) pad the lamp hours to reflect High or Low lamp setting. In other words the timer actually runs faster then real time in high lamp. This would explain the discrepancy.


----------



## Hawkmarket

TTFORUM said:


> I've ordered a few samples, and I have a follow up question for you. I have a friend who offered to sell me his two year old 120" Screen Innovations Zero Edge (not pro) with a pure white screen for $750. The SI website says it has 10% ALR. Do you think that would make any difference over my current Silver Ticket white screen?


Might be slightly brighter but will have done nothing to scratch your itch for lowering the blacks. I highly doubt you'll see any benefit from 10% ALR. I'd take a look at the larger grey samples and decide if that's the better road for what you find visually appealing.


----------



## plain fan

With the Black Friday sales at Best Buy, are the Panasonic UB420 and UB820 still the "go to" units for these projectors? Any benefit of one player over the other?


----------



## Hawkmarket

xplorar said:


> Any idea when the next projector upgrade from Epson may happen? I am almost set on buying 6050UB but being pressured by wifey to wait till Apr 2021 for it. Is it possible that 6060UB may become available by then?


I think Epson is supposed to come out with an updated projector in 2021 (possibly actual 4K) but I'm not sure if it's in the UB line and I would be shocked if you see it by April. However, they don't consult me on such matters. If you can wait until fall I think you'll either have the updated version of the 5050 or other alternative (likely more expensive) to the 5050UB.


----------



## Svttom01

plain fan said:


> With the Black Friday sales at Best Buy, are the Panasonic UB420 and UB820 still the "go to" units for these projectors? Any benefit of one player over the other?


The UB820 has an extra set of RCAs on the back and suppports Dolby Vision. The UB420 doesn't have the RCAs and only HDMI and doesn't support Dolby Vision. No projectors support Dolby Vision and already have an Oppo so I went with the UB420 as it still has the same HDR tonemapping adjustability as the UB820 and didn't feel a need to spend the extra cash for the UB820.


----------



## twistone

rekbones said:


> Most projectors (not sure about the Epson) pad the lamp hours to reflect High or Low lamp setting. In other words the timer actually runs faster then real time in high lamp. This would explain the discrepancy.


Thanks for the reply. That makes sense and, if it's the case, points to my refurb being almost new. It's not a big deal but it's nice to think that it hasn't been used excessively by the previous owner.


----------



## imureh

Would you pay $800 more for a 5050 vs a 6040?


----------



## Sorny

imureh said:


> Would you pay $800 more for a 5050 vs a 6040?


I would. 5050 has MUCH better HDR, and 18Gbps HDMI.


----------



## imureh

Sorny said:


> I would. 5050 has MUCH better HDR, and 18Gbps HDMI.


Thanks, my plan was to keep the 6040 for 5 years and by then hopefully true 4k projectors become a lot cheaper...I am not wondering on what to do...will have to pay return shipping for the 6040 to parker gwen as well...


----------



## twistone

imureh said:


> Would you pay $800 more for a 5050 vs a 6040?


That's pretty much the decision I just made (closer to $875 difference in my case). The main plusses for the 6040 were saving enough money to pay for a decent enough screen and new AVR, an extra year of warranty, and a better looking black case. The cons were mainly around the HDMI inputs and being an older unit in general. I'm not sure if the 6040 refurb roulette is as random as the 5040, but reading post after post about problem 5040 units turned me off as well. 

Having said that...I stalked the Epson refurb site for 3 weeks waiting to snag a 5040 for $1,200 or less as it would have been worth the headache to play roulette at that price.

I ended up with the 5050 and feel like I have a unit that I'll be satisfied with for a longer time. In addition to the simplified 4K60/HDR handling, I'm loving the lens memory. I have a 16:9 screen but I watch a lot of movies and like having the option to easily move my 2:35:1 content to the bottom. The 'bars' at the top of the wider image don't really bother me.


----------



## imureh

twistone said:


> That's pretty much the decision I just made (closer to $875 difference in my case). The main plusses for the 6040 were saving enough money to pay for a decent enough screen and new AVR, an extra year of warranty, and a better looking black case. The cons were mainly around the HDMI inputs and being an older unit in general. I'm not sure if the 6040 refurb roulette is as random as the 5040, but reading post after post about problem 5040 units turned me off as well.
> 
> Having said that...I stalked the Epson refurb site for 3 weeks waiting to snag a 5040 for $1,200 or less as it would have been worth the headache to play roulette at that price.
> 
> After considering it some more, I ended up with the 5050 and feel like I have a unit that I will be satisfied with for a longer period of time.


Yeah thanks. My issue now is that I have to get the 6040ub back to parker gwen. So timing of that and cost. The 6040 has a 3 year warranty vs 1 for the 5050 so its 2 years more.


----------



## twistone

imureh said:


> The 6040 has a 3 year warranty vs 1 for the 5050 so its 2 years more.


Where are you seeing only a one year warranty for the 5050? Mine most certainly has 2 years, I just registered it and did the warranty verification check today and it shows covered until November 2022.


----------



## imureh

twistone said:


> Where are you seeing only a one year warranty for the 5050? Mine most certainly has 2 years, I just registered it and did the warranty verification check today and it shows covered until November 2022.


It was in the details of the product listing and confirmed by a Epson rep but if thats what its telling you at time of registration then you are good to go.


----------



## robotsindaskies

I just upgraded to the 5050UB after almost 10 years of trusty service from my 8350. It was still going strong but I was lured by the promise of improved resolution and HDR. I'm very happy with the contrast and improved colors that the 5050 dishes out. However, the HDR has been incredibly underwhelming and I'm trying to figure out what's wrong. Whenever I switch to HDR games on my PS4 or Netflix movies on the Fire Stick 4K, the colors all become less saturated. I understand that the picture will be dimmer but everything looks washed out. I've tried HDR on Natural and Digital Cinema modes, both on Medium power. I haven't tried calibrating yet since I've only got 70 hours on the bulb. Has anyone else experienced this? FWIW, HDMI cables are all new 18gb/s and I'm using a 1.4 gain white screen.


----------



## platinum00

For those that have calibrated HDR, what slider setting do you use. I always watched on 6 so calibrated to that but now that I think about it the default might be better?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## abpatter

I'm having a hard time installing the 1.04 firmware. I've followed the instructions from the Epson Support site, but no dice. When exactly do you release the power button after plugging the projector back in?

Edit: I think it may be my USB drive. It's supposed to be an 8GB drive, but after formatting I noticed it's only 248MB. I'll try another, if I can find one.


----------



## platinum00

As soon as the indicator lights flash.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## abpatter

Still no luck. All the indicator lights come on (status and power lights are blue, other two are orange), I release the power button, the orange lights go off and the two blue lights flash a 4-5 times, then the standby light goes solid blue and the status light stops flashing.


----------



## ScudDawg

platinum00 said:


> For those that have calibrated HDR, what slider setting do you use. I always watched on 6 so calibrated to that but now that I think about it the default might be better?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


dynamic all day, it is awesome in a light controlled room, I believe my HDR slider is set to 6 currently on ECO mode as well.


----------



## abpatter

Problem is resolved - it was a faulty usb drive after all. Glad it didn't brick my brand new projector!


----------



## platinum00

ScudDawg said:


> dynamic all day, it is awesome in a light controlled room, I believe my HDR slider is set to 6 currently on ECO mode as well.



Thanks.. so did you calibrate with it at the default 8, and move it to 6 after. Or do you Calibrate with the setting you like e.g 6.

How's the color gamut with dynamic.. Does green get 100% of P3


----------



## Luminated67

platinum00 said:


> Thanks.. so did you calibrate with it at the default 8, and move it to 6 after. Or do you Calibrate with the setting you like e.g 6.
> 
> How's the color gamut with dynamic.. Does green get 100% of P3


HDR doesn’t work like normal SDR which has a set parameters, HDR works on nits and a movie can fall in a range from a few hundred nits up to 10000 nits which is why there’s an HDR slider that can be adjusted to suit the particular movie. The older JVC X series didn’t have this function and suffered with HDR because of this which is why MadVR has proved so popular there.


----------



## plain fan

Svttom01 said:


> The UB820 has an extra set of RCAs on the back and suppports Dolby Vision. The UB420 doesn't have the RCAs and only HDMI and doesn't support Dolby Vision. No projectors support Dolby Vision and already have an Oppo so I went with the UB420 as it still has the same HDR tonemapping adjustability as the UB820 and didn't feel a need to spend the extra cash for the UB820.


Thank you for the response. My room is still in process but I wanted to jump on the black Friday deals if it made sense. I'm also debating moving to ripping my movies for ease of use and access since all of my equipment will be moved into a separate room.


----------



## ScudDawg

platinum00 said:


> Thanks.. so did you calibrate with it at the default 8, and move it to 6 after. Or do you Calibrate with the setting you like e.g 6.
> 
> How's the color gamut with dynamic.. Does green get 100% of P3


I tried a lot of different settings from other users and settled on dynamic with HDR at 6 as this looked best to me. Some of the other settings were changed I am not running default dynamic, but it does give a very nice picture. I could probably tweak it further but I am happy where it is at now. I am far from a calibrator, lol.


----------



## platinum00

Luminated67 said:


> HDR doesn’t work like normal SDR which has a set parameters, HDR works on nits and a movie can fall in a range from a few hundred nits up to 10000 nits which is why there’s an HDR slider that can be adjusted to suit the particular movie. The older JVC X series didn’t have this function and suffered with HDR because of this which is why MadVR has proved so popular there.


That makes sense but not sure how that translates to calibration. Does that mean it doesn't matter what the slider is set to during calibration?


----------



## st2006

I'm coming from a PanasOnic PT-AE8000U on a 2:40:1 screen. The main appeal for me is the lens memory function and I was impressed by the way how it automatically adjusts to the content (alteast for 16:9 and widescreen). From what I read so far in this thread, Epson 5050 cannot load the memory settings automatically. Does anyone know if this feature is available in any Projectors at all (Epson or JVC preferbly).


----------



## Pretorian

Yoss said:


> What streaming devices do you guys like best on the 5050ub? My short list is the Apple TV 4k or the Nvidia Shield TV or TV Pro. (I apologize if this topic has been covered multiple times, but my searches haven't turned much up and this is a looooong thread!)
> 
> If anyone uses the Apple TV 4K, Shield TV, or TV Pro what has been your experience with judder and streaming 4K content from Netflix or other services and the mishmash of refresh rates they can serve up? I do have other Apple devices so I was leaning that way, but it sounds like they don't have as much flexibility as the Shield when it comes to refresh rates. I know the 5050ub is supposed to have decent frame interpolation, but if it behaves markedly better with a certain device in regards to judder, I'd appreciate feedback.
> 
> Of secondary concern is upscaling of non 4K content. I've read mixed reviews of Nvidia's AI upscaling compared to Apple's algorithms but I'm not as worried about that.
> 
> I don't have my theater set up just yet. Still working on finishing off the room and screen wall. I'll have a 120 inch screen at 16x9. This is my first projector and my other TVs are still 1080. I don't run a media server and any of the old school games I'd want to emulate would be on a smaller screen, so that aspect of the Shield, while very nice, aren't major considerations for me right now. THANKS!


A little late maybe but I prefer my Dune HD Pro 4k streamer to play all my digital local content. UHD 4k rips with HIGH bitrate (60-90 Mbit).


----------



## RRF

twistone said:


> Anyway, questions - I searched how to check total hours in the service menu but am confused at why the total hours would be less than the total lamp hours?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> View attachment 3059019





twistone said:


> New 5050 (refurb) owner here, just upgraded from an ancient Epson 710HD. I talked myself into the 5050 after having first settled on a 5030 refurb. I'm happy I went a little higher.
> 
> Anyway, questions - I searched how to check total hours in the service menu but am confused at why the total hours would be less than the total lamp hours?
> 
> I have put 23 hours on the lamp. The service menu says there are 27 total lamp hours, 23 total operating hours and 0 lamp changes.
> 
> At first I thought that meant the unit was basically new, had been run for 4 hours and then had the lamp hours reset when I bought it. But the total operating hours would still at least be 27 in that case, right?
> 
> I'm just trying to get an idea of how many hours are on the chassis.
> 
> Thanks!
> View attachment 3059019


How did you get into the service menu?


----------



## platinum00

delete..


----------



## twistone

RRF said:


> How did you get into the service menu?


(from any screen, apparently) - Hold down the Menu button for ~8 seconds and then press ESC twice. It should pop right up.


----------



## acrackl

I’ve got a weird problem. On my Roku Premiere 4K with the Apple TV plus app, I can stream 4K movies from my library fine (like Passengers), but when I try to view the Apple TV shows (Tehran, for example), the projector loses signal. So far I’ve only got the Roku connected to HDMI. Everything else (Amazon, Netflix in 4K) seems to work fine. Any thoughts?

I’m able to use AirPlay to stream the TV shows from my iPad (to the Roku Premiere) and display that on the projector.


----------



## ergFX

I have random question that I can't seem to find anywhere online, so hoping someone here can help me with. Can anyone tell me the distance from the back of the projector to the front of the front feet? I have 14 3/4" shelf that I'm hoping to put this on, but knowing the unit is 17.7" deep has me worried it won't fit. I'm sure I could put something under it to extend the shelf a bit, but aesthetically I'm hoping to avoid that.


----------



## rekbones

st2006 said:


> I'm coming from a PanasOnic PT-AE8000U on a 2:40:1 screen. The main appeal for me is the lens memory function and I was impressed by the way how it automatically adjusts to the content (alteast for 16:9 and widescreen). From what I read so far in this thread, Epson 5050 cannot load the memory settings automatically. Does anyone know if this feature is available in any Projectors at all (Epson or JVC preferbly).


I think that feature was very unique to the Panasonic's. I do believe some have setup fully automated JVC's (might work with other brands) but they use a HTPC and the IP controls on the projector, some even having it control masking systems also. I don't think any manufacture has it native in the projector like Panasonic did. Browse through the CIH thread and I am sure you will see how others are dealing with this issue.


----------



## Luminated67

st2006 said:


> I'm coming from a PanasOnic PT-AE8000U on a 2:40:1 screen. The main appeal for me is the lens memory function and I was impressed by the way how it automatically adjusts to the content (alteast for 16:9 and widescreen). From what I read so far in this thread, Epson 5050 cannot load the memory settings automatically. Does anyone know if this feature is available in any Projectors at all (Epson or JVC preferbly).


Once you have saved the two aspect ratios into the preset 1& 2 you can call these up on the remote as it provides two buttons for lens memory. I know this isn't fully automated but it's the next best thing IMO.


----------



## acrackl

ergFX said:


> I have random question that I can't seem to find anywhere online, so hoping someone here can help me with. Can anyone tell me the distance from the back of the projector to the front of the front feet? I have 14 3/4" shelf that I'm hoping to put this on, but knowing the unit is 17.7" deep has me worried it won't fit. I'm sure I could put something under it to extend the shelf a bit, but aesthetically I'm hoping to avoid that.


I measured it for you. The distance between back support (the rubber foot is in the middle - longer rectangular foot as opposed to the front feet, which are round) and front support is ~10 inches (including all feet in).

The distance from the front feet (including the feet) to the back of the projector is ~14 inches. You’ll have about 3/4” clearance in the back ...


----------



## DaGamePimp

platinum00 said:


> That makes sense but not sure how that translates to calibration. Does that mean it doesn't matter what the slider is set to during calibration?


Leave the slider at default when calibrating.

- Jason


----------



## st2006

rekbones said:


> I think that feature was very unique to the Panasonic's. I do believe some have setup fully automated JVC's (might work with other brands) but they use a HTPC and the IP controls on the projector, some even having it control masking systems also. I don't think any manufacture has it native in the projector like Panasonic did. Browse through the CIH thread and I am sure you will see how others are dealing with this issue.


Thanks. I spent a good amount of time in CIH forum but will go through again. I know they are not big fans of using this zoom method 

This automatic shift always bring a smile to my face especailly when demoing. Sucks if I cannot replicate it.


----------



## DarrinH

I am using Alaric's settings from here: The Dreaming Cinema
Does anyone have the nits levels for these settings? I am wondering if a Panasonic DP-UB820 will benefit the presentation with this projector? I am currently using the cheap Sony UBP-X700. Wondered if the HDR slider function of the projector works well enough with my current player to avoid an upgrade.


----------



## RRF

rekbones said:


> Word of advice, change your lamp out as soon as you get it and keep the original as a spare. Your new lamp if not used for the time it's under warranty so when you eventually put it in it maybe defective then your SOL.


Good advice.
Just to update...my lamp arrived in Toronto, at my door, in 23 hours from Miami FL., via FedEx. Amazing !


----------



## citsur86

My 5050UB came today - I knew the specs before buying but MAN is it huge lol. I am used to much cheaper and smaller projectors like the GT1080 etc. This is my first "real" projector and i cant wait to get the room setup and working.


----------



## Hopinater

Last week I got my new 5050UB. This is my first time with a PJ and I decided to go with the 5050UB instead of a cheaper model because I didn't want to end up with any regrets. Last week I tore the room apart, painted it a darker color, set up the screen, mount, and projector and entered into the world of the big screen. After a week of watching movies I have to say I'm thrilled with this projector and so is everyone in my family. We all love the picture quality. Definitely happy I went this this projector.


----------



## Kieran

Did this forum lose the feature to search within a particular discussion thread? I can't find it and this thread is way too long to skim, so sorry if this is covered elsewhere...
What's the consensus on tone mapping for this projector? Does it do a decent job on it's own? Should I buy a Panasonic 820 to go with it? Are there any other tone mapping devices that I should consider?
I'd prefer to just use an Xbox Series X for everything, but not much is out about that box's tone mapping abilities yet. And I'm open to other solutions, if they don't break the bank.
Thanks!


----------



## AVTimme

Ok I watched Harry Potter yesterday and I'm amazed at how well the 6050ub does blacks.
How is it possible that an LCD projector does blacks better then LCD displays? My MacBook Pro display looks grey and washed out compared to the 6050ub


----------



## Pretorian

DarrinH said:


> I am using Alaric's settings from here: The Dreaming Cinema
> Does anyone have the nits levels for these settings? I am wondering if a Panasonic DP-UB820 will benefit the presentation with this projector? I am currently using the cheap Sony UBP-X700. Wondered if the HDR slider function of the projector works well enough with my current player to avoid an upgrade.


Thanks for the tip of the Dreaming Cinema. I wonder how "well" another cinemas settings works for your setting? I am interested in trying this one out.

How would one (me) calibrate the 6050 without contacting a professional?


----------



## chek39

Svttom01 said:


> The UB820 has an extra set of RCAs on the back and suppports Dolby Vision. The UB420 doesn't have the RCAs and only HDMI and doesn't support Dolby Vision. No projectors support Dolby Vision and already have an Oppo so I went with the UB420 as it still has the same HDR tonemapping adjustability as the UB820 and didn't feel a need to spend the extra cash for the UB820.


I got both UB820 ($350) and UB420($150) from BB and not yet opened the boxes. i am planning to return one based on my usage.
I have Denon X3700H and Epson 6050ub.
I am assuming when i play dolby vision capable movie disc through UB820, the signal will be received by X3700h (which i think the receiver is able to receive dolby vision signal) and after that what happens ? is 6050 can't display the movie or washed out colors or does it scale down ? I am missing something here
Netflix has some movies in dolby vision and I am watching through X3700 and 6050. I am assuming 820 can play same movie from netflix app in dolby vision
Can you add more on your thoughts on "No projectors support Dolby Vision"

Thanks


----------



## rekbones

All the devices in the chain must support DV and the projector doesn't so they will play the default HDR10. You have no need for the 820 that I know of. The Tone mapping of the Panasonic most say is better then that in the 6050/5050 but not by a wide margin. Only a PC running MadVR on locally stored content can do "Dynamic" tone mapping similar to or even better than DV. JVC's NX series have excellent dynamic tone mapping. An external device from MadVR the Envy can do it for all content but is very expensive @ $10K for the pro model.


----------



## chek39

rekbones said:


> All the devices in the chain must support DV and the projector doesn't so they will play the default HDR10. You have no need for the 820 that I know of. The Tone mapping of the Panasonic most say is better then that in the 6050/5050 but not by a wide margin. Only a PC running MadVR on locally stored content can do "Dynamic" tone mapping similar to or even better than DV. JVC's NX series have excellent dynamic tone mapping. An external device from MadVR the Envy can do it for all content but is very expensive @ $10K for the pro model.


Thanks for the reply. I was assuming the same that the signal is converting to HDR10.
one more question. I heard HDR10+ is equivalent to DV where content is dynamic. in this case,if signal is DV from netflix/or disc, is panasonic 820 not able to convert to HDR10+ ? today it may not be converting but probably with a new software update ? what my point is, DV is not carried all the way to display but if 820 can convert to something equivalent, then dont we benefit out of it ?
in case of UB420, there is no DV signal to convert. I know 820 is $200 more or I can save $200 with 420 but in future if panasonic comes back with some updates to process DV signal in better ways (conversion), I might be stuck with 420 with no DV signal support to begin with.. I hope my question is clear

Thanks


----------



## rekbones

There is no conversion possible, I believe DV works by mapping the content to the displays capabilities if the display doesn't support it then DV has no information to work with. HDR10+ is similar all devices and the media must support it and is not widely used to my knowledge anyways.


----------



## chek39

rekbones said:


> There is no conversion possible, I believe DV works by mapping the content to the displays capabilities if the display doesn't support it then DV has no information to work with. HDR10+ is similar all devices and the media must support it and is not widely used to my knowledge anyways.


I should have used word "default" rather than conversion. Anyways movie is playing in HDR even though content is DV. I hope in future that default could be HDR10+
I will think about it and probably i will return 820 and keep 420 and will save $200

Wrt Dolby vision, Dolby corporation is still trying to establish relationships with various TV/projector manufacturers and as of now there is no response from these folks (other than just one or two manufacturers) as Dolby is seeking heavy premium where as HDR is open source and vast vendors already onboarded and vast content already available and slowly moving towards HDR10+ which is equivalent to DV and also still open source. Unless Dolby corporation work with all these providers, DV might lose like before Blue-ray vs HD-DVD war and ultimately HD-DVD story ended. Based on current trend, HDR10+ is gaining more traction than DV even though folks are saying DV is better than HDR10+


----------



## TTFORUM

AVTimme said:


> Ok I watched Harry Potter yesterday and I'm amazed at how well the 6050ub does blacks.
> How is it possible that an LCD projector does blacks better then LCD displays? My MacBook Pro display looks grey and washed out compared to the 6050ub


That's great. What is your theater setup? What kind of a screen are you using? I got the 5050ub and I'm 90% happy with it, but still not happy with the black levels on movie scenes that are mostly dark.


----------



## AVTimme

TTFORUM said:


> That's great. What is your theater setup? What kind of a screen are you using? I got the 5050ub and I'm 90% happy with it, but still not happy with the black levels on movie scenes that are mostly dark.


i have a 120 inch regular 1.1 white screen. Elite screens

My room is not a bat cave since my ceiling is white

Despite that, dark scenes loom very very good


----------



## st2006

Kieran said:


> Did this forum lose the feature to search within a particular discussion thread? I can't find it and this thread is way too long to skim, so sorry if this is covered elsewhere...


They changed it and its a pain to find it now. Start typing your keyword in the search box that says "search community". You should see 3 options in the dropdown while typing - one of them will let you search in the current thread


----------



## Pretorian

I just want to show a couple of pics from my setup. I have the 6050 in a very dark light controlled room. The light you see is reflecting from the screen. With everything off it is pretty dark, not pitch black. The second pic has some lights on just so you can see the room more. 
First image is A Few Good Men in UHD and the second is Crimson Tide in UHD.


----------



## AVTimme

Very nice


----------



## twistone

Pretorian said:


> I just want to show a couple of pics from my setup.


How do you feel about the sharpness, specifically in close-up shots of faces like in the A Few Good Men pic? What preset (if any) are you using for Image Enhancement and are you able to get good sharpness without using the Image Enhancement presets at all? I'm not saying that your pic isn't sharp, I'm asking because, so far, close-ups of faces are the only clear sign I have that the sharpness seems low on my end. I was just going to break out the camera and take some sample images to post. I've adjusted the focus and panel alignment (and then focus again) and can get a decently sharp picture using preset 3, but when I turn Image Enhancement off it looks like close-ups of faces are slightly defocused. I'm not sure if this is normal, I'm just being super picky (a bit of a pixel peeper) or there is some other issue.

Thanks.


----------



## amdar

Epson 5050UB signal status displays SDR when watching 4K HDR movies. The dynamic range is set to Auto and the color space is Natural.


----------



## aoaaron

How does HDR work for projectors in terms of brightness fluctuations?

For example, I watch a show on my FALD TV. I know I can get shot in the face with 1500 nits of full field brightness at any time, but nits will fluctuate and generally be very sensible.. or sometimes very low. 

Can a projector like an Epson 9400 do this or is it more just mapping of colours as opposed to specular highlight detail?

I was just wondering because I'm considering dynamic tone mapping from my MADVR-capable PC and using that to the map the colours to try and improve the quality of tone mapping and steer away from the playing with the HDR slider everytime I watch a film. 

I was also trying to decide is their an advantage to NOT engaging digitial cinema if it allows the PJ to use MORE lumens from the SDR mode....


----------



## Pretorian

twistone said:


> How do you feel about the sharpness, specifically in close-up shots of faces like in the A Few Good Men pic? What preset (if any) are you using for Image Enhancement and are you able to get good sharpness without using the Image Enhancement presets at all? I'm not saying that your pic isn't sharp, I'm asking because so far close-ups of faces are the only clear sign I have that the sharpness seems low on my end. I was just going to break out the camera and take some sample images to post. I've adjusted focus and panel alignment (and then focus again) and can get a decently sharp picture using preset 3, but when I turn Image Enhancement off it looks like close-ups of faces are slightly defocused. I'm not sure if this is normal, I'm just being super picky (a bit of a pixel peeper) or there is some other issue.
> 
> Thanks.


I am glad you ask. I love this projector and I really like its sharpness. Now.. I have not yet to seen a real 4k projector so I cant compare it to that. But the close ups, with the RIGHT material, looks great according to me. 
I use Image enhancement preset 3. It gives my picture more edge but not too much like if I would use preset 4 or 5. 
I almost only watch UHD and occasionally some Full HD but it still works.
But again... with good content I am more than satisfied with the picture. I can get som more shots from my 60p version of Gemini Man. It feel almost like 3d when looking at HFR.


----------



## AVTimme

twistone said:


> How do you feel about the sharpness, specifically in close-up shots of faces like in the A Few Good Men pic? What preset (if any) are you using for Image Enhancement and are you able to get good sharpness without using the Image Enhancement presets at all? I'm not saying that your pic isn't sharp, I'm asking because so far close-ups of faces are the only clear sign I have that the sharpness seems low on my end. I was just going to break out the camera and take some sample images to post. I've adjusted focus and panel alignment (and then focus again) and can get a decently sharp picture using preset 3, but when I turn Image Enhancement off it looks like close-ups of faces are slightly defocused. I'm not sure if this is normal, I'm just being super picky (a bit of a pixel peeper) or there is some other issue.
> 
> Thanks.


i always use enhancement preset 3

looks so much better


----------



## Luminated67

When I first got it I used preset 4 but I have moved down to 3 and now occasionally use 2. What I have also done is tweak the settings in each preset to my own taste.


----------



## twistone

Pretorian said:


> I can get som more shots from my 60p version of Gemini Man.


Thanks for the info. It's funny that you mention Gemini Man. I just came across the 4K/60 HDR clip of Gemini Man on YouTube when I was testing things out and thought it had some of the sharpest faces I've seen so far. I've also settled on using preset 3 but am still tinkering with settings. I think some of the variation I've been seeing has been source related too. I'm also using the widest zoom and am at the minimum distance away to be able to throw a 144-inch image, so I'm curious if that's impacting things.

At any rate, this thing does throw a very nice image!


----------



## twistone

aoaaron said:


> Can a projector like an Epson 9400 do this or is it more just mapping of colours as opposed to specular highlight detail?


The Epson does not do that sort of dynamic on-the-fly tone mapping that you're referring to. That's why you'll see a lot of suggestions to pair it with a Panasonic DP-UB820 or 420 since they seem to do a good job of tone mapping for the price. I was impatient and bought the Sony UBP-X700 (which I like) but am considering picking up a 420 while they are on sale. For the price, I'll keep both and the loser gets the living room.


----------



## Werewolf79

Does anyone know the filter thread size, I bought a 77m NDx2 filter and it’s too big, i now need to buy a step up ring to add it so I can try it with some content and measure it.

I have read some saying the manual iris does the same job, it does not, I have measured this, I have an old 49mm NDx2 filter, it was too small, but I could use my hand and roughly do some measurements, with Iris off it would always be 0.0043 ft lambert for complete black, with Dynamic iris on It would be 0.0028 ft lambert with black.

Changing the manual iris from 0 to -20 had zero effect on black level, always the same and I measured carefully, putting the projector on medium lamp and wide open at 0 for the manual iris got me 43ft lambert brightness at 100ire, with that 49mm NDx2 filter the brightness dropped to 20ft lambert, I measured better black levels.

So I have bought a 77mm filter to do a new calibration using the medium lamp and 0 on the manual iris since the manual iris did nothing for actual black levels but the filter does.

What size is the thread on this Epson TW9400 so I can buy the correct step up up ring?

P.S. Images that get posted, they always make black levels on projectors look great, even if it’s an cheap DLP I notice the pictures always distort the true black levels, you can never use another persons settings, the out of the box settings on these Epsons tend to be decent, better to use them, using another persons settings will just be wildly off in most cases.


----------



## aoaaron

Werewolf79 said:


> Does anyone know the filter thread size, I bought a 77m NDx2 filter and it’s too big, i now need to buy a step up ring to add it so I can try it with some content and measure it.
> 
> I have read some saying the manual iris does the same job, it does not, I have measured this, I have an old 49mm NDx2 filter, it was too small, but I could use my hand and roughly do some measurements, with Iris off it would always be 0.0043 ft lambert for complete black, with Dynamic iris on It would be 0.0028 ft lambert with black.
> 
> Changing the manual iris from 0 to -20 had zero effect on black level, always the same and I measured carefully, putting the projector on medium lamp and wide open at 0 for the manual iris got me 43ft lambert brightness at 100ire, with that 49mm NDx2 filter the brightness dropped to 20ft lambert, I measured better black levels.
> 
> So I have bought a 77mm filter to do a new calibration using the medium lamp and 0 on the manual iris since the manual iris did nothing for actual black levels but the filter does.
> 
> What size is the thread on this Epson TW9400 so I can buy the correct step up up ring?
> 
> P.S. Images that get posted, they always make black levels on projectors look great, even if it’s an cheap DLP I notice the pictures always distort the true black levels, you can never use another persons settings, the out of the box settings on these Epsons tend to be decent, better to use them, using another persons settings will just be wildly off in most cases.



Wow!! Seriously? So closing the iris does not improve the blacks? That could mean a MASSIVE improvement to black level with ND Filter! 

How much does an ND filter cost? I do have one for my cameras but I'm assuming a projector ND filter is a lot more expensive. This has gotten VERY interesting..


----------



## Werewolf79

aoaaron said:


> Wow!! Seriously? So closing the iris does not improve the blacks? That could mean a MASSIVE improvement to black level with ND Filter!
> 
> How much does an ND filter cost? I do have one for my cameras but I'm assuming a projector ND filter is a lot more expensive. This has gotten VERY interesting..


Closing the manual iris just alters the light output from what I have measured.

You do not need an expensive ND filter, just a decent coated one should do, I bought a Hoya, I usually buy B+W filters because I like their quality a lot.

I need to know filter thread size so I can now buy a step up ring, unfortunately I do not think digital cinema has enough lumens to use an ND filter, even on high lamp I only got 30 ft lambert and high lamp is just too noisy, it would be useful for blu ray and streaming HD content.


----------



## Luminated67

aoaaron said:


> Wow!! Seriously? So closing the iris does not improve the blacks? That could mean a MASSIVE improvement to black level with ND Filter!
> 
> How much does an ND filter cost? I do have one for my cameras but I'm assuming a projector ND filter is a lot more expensive. This has gotten VERY interesting..


ND filter or changing the screen material from white to grey will change the perceived contrast. I wanted to switch from 16:9 to 2.35:1 so chose the to switch from white to grey and I must say the difference is amazing, I’m getting blacks that are way more convincing and I’m genuinely happy to say I don’t crave the need to get a JVC anymore.

Though the ND filter will be quite a bit cheaper. LOL


----------



## mklein49

Hello all,

I'm looking for help positioning my Epson 5050. I have a 158" 2.35:1 Silver Ticket 1.4 Gain white screen. Plan to setup a bat cave. I have quite a bit of freedom in terms of projector placement, so I'm curious what folks would recommend for a throw ratio?

THanks,


----------



## twistone

mklein49 said:


> I have quite a bit of freedom in terms of projector placement, so I'm curious what folks would recommend for a throw ratio?


That's mainly going to come down to how much space you have. If you haven't played with the Throw Calculator on projectorcentral.com that's the first place to start. Leaving the zoom in the middle says that the lens should be 22'-3" away from a screen that big, with a minimum of 16'-5" and max of 34'-7".

That's a giant screen!


----------



## xplorar

Luminated67 said:


> ND filter or changing the screen material from white to grey will change the perceived contrast.


I do have a white screen and ND filters. So I don't need to buy a grey screen? Grey screen doesn't offers any advantage over ND filter?
I have tried ND filters but they just makes the overall picture dull for me. Will effect be same if I use a grey screen instead?


----------



## Luminated67

mklein49 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I'm looking for help positioning my Epson 5050. I have a 158" 2.35:1 Silver Ticket 1.4 Gain white screen. Plan to setup a bat cave. I have quite a bit of freedom in terms of projector placement, so I'm curious what folks would recommend for a throw ratio?
> 
> THanks,


It’s a huge screen and regardless of the gain you will still need all the lumens your projector can produce so my suggestion is go with close to the minimum throw distance but not the absolute minimum.









Just to let you know my grey screen is 0.9 gain and I am getting 187 nits so not a lot more and I can use ‘Digital Cinema’ mode to take full use of HDR and only need the Mid lamp setting.


----------



## noob00224

mklein49 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I'm looking for help positioning my Epson 5050. I have a 158" 2.35:1 Silver Ticket 1.4 Gain white screen. Plan to setup a bat cave. I have quite a bit of freedom in terms of projector placement, so I'm curious what folks would recommend for a throw ratio?
> 
> THanks,


Better check on the ST thread how it behaves in relation to hotspotting, since it has a real gain of ~1.4. You could try it and see if any artifacts are present. Project a full white image.

This model looses 27% brightness from wide angle lens (closest to screen) to furthest.

Use this calculator since PC calculator uses the highest preset on highest lamp mode:


Home Page


----------



## mklein49

noob00224 said:


> Better check on the ST thread how it behaves in relation to hotspotting, since it has a real gain of ~1.4. You could try it and see if any artifacts are present. Project a full white image.
> 
> This model looses 27% brightness from wide angle lens (closest to screen) to furthest.
> 
> Use this calculator since PC calculator uses the highest preset on highest lamp mode:
> 
> 
> Home Page


I just place the order with silver ticket. I was having trouble finding info on here about that screen. Sounds like that might have been a bad choice screen wise? Would you recommend something else?


----------



## mklein49

twistone said:


> That's mainly going to come down to how much space you have. If you haven't played with the Throw Calculator on projectorcentral.com that's the first place to start. Leaving the zoom in the middle says that the lens should be 22'-3" away from a screen that big, with a minimum of 16'-5" and max of 34'-7".
> 
> That's a giant screen!


I can do anywhere from 16' to 30'. We have a very long room. This is going in a general purpose area of our basement. 

For better or worse, giant is what I was after!


----------



## Hopinater

I'm using a Silver Ticket screen and it looks really good, I'm very pleased with it. But you're going a lot bigger than what I have and your set up is completely different than mine so my input probably isn't worth much in relation to your situation. But I have a 100" Grey screen with a 1.0 gain. The blacks look great as do the colors.


----------



## twistone

mklein49 said:


> For better or worse, giant is what I was after!


Oh, I would definitely go bigger if I could. My 5050 is temporarily set-up in my living room on a 144-inch 16:9 screen so I'm getting about 136" on 2.35:1 content...and I absolutely love it! However, it's ultimately going into a dedicated room that only allows for a 110-inch screen due to not having enough throw distance. I can't comment on the potential hot-spotting issues but you have plenty of room to fill a screen of that size and get good brightness. Good luck!


----------



## biglen

twistone said:


> Oh, I would definitely go bigger if I could. My 5050 is temporarily set-up in my living room on a 144-inch 16:9 screen so I'm getting about 136" on 2.35:1 content...and I absolutely love it! However, it's ultimately going into a dedicated room that only allows for a 110-inch screen due to not having enough throw distance. I can't comment on the potential hot-spotting issues but you have plenty of room to fill a screen of that size and get good brightness. Good luck!


Will the projector be against the back wall? If it is, can you build a box into the wall, to get the projector further back, which would give you a bigger picture? That's what I did. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## noob00224

mklein49 said:


> I just place the order with silver ticket. I was having trouble finding info on here about that screen. Sounds like that might have been a bad choice screen wise? Would you recommend something else?


No, that's actually a great choice. For large screens brightness is important. Positive gain screens are hard to come by and can be very expensive. 

But as any screen with positive gain it can produce hotspot. Ask Dominic Chan who used that fabric how far back it should be placed:









Silver Ticket Screen?


If the room is not treated, then treat it. And the get a stewart screen. Don't cheap out. Room has a dark paint. Is that treated? Which Stewart screen do you recommend?




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Greg121986

Looking for some help before I blow more cash. I am extremely annoyed to say that I had to send my original 5050UB back for warranty replacement in April when it was only 7 months old for a noisy and twitchy iris with fewer than 1100 hours on it. Now, 7 months after I received the replacement it seems the bulb has died. I was just watching and when I went to shut the PJ down, the screen began blinking at a consistent rate showing the last frame of the video signal. The PJ was unresponsive. When it finally closed the lens cover the status light was blinking blue and the lamp light is blinking orange. I tried to turn it back on and I got no light output and the dummy lights are still showing the same. I have fewer than 1000 hours on this bulb. 

So, it looks like I need to buy a new bulb. Can we confirm that the Epson part # is V13H010L89? Are there any comparable bulbs to this? What is a good source for me to purchase one of these bulbs? Thanks in advance.


----------



## twistone

biglen said:


> Will the projector be against the back wall?


Thanks for the suggestion. I'd love to be able to do something like that, especially since I just need about one more foot to get up to a 120-inch screen. The only wall that would really work for the layout of my chosen room is an external wall so I don't think that's going to work. I've used the projector at 110-inches and played with seating distances and I'm satisfied with the immersion and quality from about 8.5 feet away. When I'm ready to upgrade in a few years I'll just target one with a shorter throw. 

I'm curious about what's on the other side of your wall though?


----------



## biglen

twistone said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. I'd love to be able to do something like that, especially since I just need about one more foot to get up to a 120-inch screen. The only wall that would really work for the layout of my chosen room is an external wall so I don't think that's going to work. I've used the projector at 110-inches and played with seating distances and I'm satisfied with the immersion and quality from about 8.5 feet away. When I'm ready to upgrade in a few years I'll just target one with a shorter throw.
> 
> I'm curious about what's on the other side of your wall though?


It's a utility room on the other side. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MomentumMike

noob00224 said:


> Better check on the ST thread how it behaves in relation to hotspotting, since it has a real gain of ~1.4. You could try it and see if any artifacts are present. Project a full white image.
> 
> This model looses 27% brightness from wide angle lens (closest to screen) to furthest.
> 
> Use this calculator since PC calculator uses the highest preset on highest lamp mode:
> 
> 
> Home Page


My 5050ub is arriving in a couple of days. I’m replacing my Dwin HD-700, which was a trooper for 20 years!

My screen is a 16:9, 110” Stewart THX microperf with 1.8 gain. My throw distance will be about 11’ 4”, so I’ll nearly be maxing out the wide angle zoom. So... The brightness calculator at that link has me concerned. Even the low lamp calc comes out to 68 fL, i.e., “too bright”. What does that mean? Am I in trouble?

My theater is in the basement and moving the pj’s ceiling mount position farther from the screen would mean a jump across the main beam of the house and anchoring it to joists that are under an exercise room. I’m concerned that the vibrations from high impact aerobics would damage the pj. (I’d also have to do some nasty rewiring to retain the aesthetics.) So, installing the 5050ub in the same spot as the Dwin seemed reasonable to me, until now.


----------



## pbc

Curious, how many folks are using the 5050 in a mixed environment as their main display?

I am thinking of using it as a main display in my basement. When needed I can control the light quite well for critical viewing, but I'm guessing most of the time lights will be on when watching.

Room is painted in benjamin Moore whale gray, ceiling is white.

Would use it mostly for TV/Streaming, and movies. Say 70/30. Is it too washed out in normal lighting to make it work as a main display?

Also, never thought of this, how are viewing angles compared to say and OLED (great) vs LCD with a VA panel (fairly poor).

I should add. PJ would be about 17 feet from the screen. Screen size would be say 105 to 125 max. 16:9.


----------



## imureh

Greg121986 said:


> Looking for some help before I blow more cash. I am extremely annoyed to say that I had to send my original 5050UB back for warranty replacement in April when it was only 7 months old for a noisy and twitchy iris with fewer than 1100 hours on it. Now, 7 months after I received the replacement it seems the bulb has died. I was just watching and when I went to shut the PJ down, the screen began blinking at a consistent rate showing the last frame of the video signal. The PJ was unresponsive. When it finally closed the lens cover the status light was blinking blue and the lamp light is blinking orange. I tried to turn it back on and I got no light output and the dummy lights are still showing the same. I have fewer than 1000 hours on this bulb.
> 
> So, it looks like I need to buy a new bulb. Can we confirm that the Epson part # is V13H010L89? Are there any comparable bulbs to this? What is a good source for me to purchase one of these bulbs? Thanks in advance.


Did you reach out to epson to see if they will cover this under warranty?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Greg121986

imureh said:


> Did you reach out to epson to see if they will cover this under warranty?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I did not. I'm assuming bulbs only have a 90 or 180 day warranty as they are likely to be considered consumable. It seems an OEM bulb is not as costly as I thought, so as long as I have the right part number I'm probably just going to go ahead and order it. Really hoping it's not a deeper issue. No way of knowing until I have another bulb, I guess.


----------



## imureh

Greg121986 said:


> I did not. I'm assuming bulbs only have a 90 or 180 day warranty as they are likely to be considered consumable. It seems an OEM bulb is not as costly as I thought, so as long as I have the right part number I'm probably just going to go ahead and order it. Really hoping it's not a deeper issue. No way of knowing until I have another bulb, I guess.


It never hurts to try especially given the issues you have had. I had success with getting free bulbs from them well outside warranty period. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Werewolf79

xplorar said:


> I do have a white screen and ND filters. So I don't need to buy a grey screen? Grey screen doesn't offers any advantage over ND filter?
> I have tried ND filters but they just makes the overall picture dull for me. Will effect be same if I use a grey screen instead?


They just lower light level and give you better black levels, the picture shouldn’t be dull, could be you like really bright images.


----------



## matt halle

biglen said:


> Will the projector be against the back wall? If it is, can you build a box into the wall, to get the projector further back, which would give you a bigger picture? That's what I did.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


This is EXACTLY like I am going to do. Couple questions. What is the size of the cubby that you went with? Anything you would have done different? And could I see pics of the other side? Curious to see what you did.


----------



## biglen

matt halle said:


> This is EXACTLY like I am going to do. Couple questions. What is the size of the cubby that you went with? Anything you would have done different? And could I see pics of the other side? Curious to see what you did.


It's 29"W x 12"H x 20"D. If you look closely at my previous pic, you'll see I have a fan mounted inside, and the control panel is below the box. It was getting over 100° in the box, and now with the fan, it's a steady 80° in there. I wouldn't do anything differently, other than I wish that duct work wasn't in the way behind the box, so I could have gone back further, and had a bigger picture. If I ever replace my heater and A/C, I'll definitely have them move things, so I can go back further. Here's a pic from behind:









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MomentumMike

MomentumMike said:


> My 5050ub is arriving in a couple of days. I’m replacing my Dwin HD-700, which was a trooper for 20 years!
> 
> My screen is a 16:9, 110” Stewart THX microperf with 1.8 gain. My throw distance will be about 11’ 4”, so I’ll nearly be maxing out the wide angle zoom. So... The brightness calculator at that link has me concerned. Even the low lamp calc comes out to 68 fL, i.e., “too bright”. What does that mean? Am I in trouble?
> 
> My theater is in the basement and moving the pj’s ceiling mount position farther from the screen would mean a jump across the main beam of the house and anchoring it to joists that are under an exercise room. I’m concerned that the vibrations from high impact aerobics would damage the pj. (I’d also have to do some nasty rewiring to retain the aesthetics.) So, installing the 5050ub in the same spot as the Dwin seemed reason





MomentumMike said:


> My 5050ub is arriving in a couple of days. I’m replacing my Dwin HD-700, which was a trooper for 20 years!
> 
> My screen is a 16:9, 110” Stewart THX microperf with 1.8 gain. My throw distance will be about 11’ 4”, so I’ll nearly be maxing out the wide angle zoom. So... The brightness calculator at that link has me concerned. Even the low lamp calc comes out to 68 fL, i.e., “too bright”. What does that mean? Am I in trouble?
> 
> My theater is in the basement and moving the pj’s ceiling mount position farther from the screen would mean a jump across the main beam of the house and anchoring it to joists that are under an exercise room. I’m concerned that the vibrations from high impact aerobics would damage the pj. (I’d also have to do some nasty rewiring to retain the aesthetics.) So, installing the 5050ub in the same spot as the Dwin seemed reasonable to me, until now.


I’ve found that the difference in brightness going from mid-zoom to full wide is only 8.7%. Considering that, and the drastic reduction of lumens when viewing in Digital Cinema mode, I’ll go with the installation at 11’-4” and see how that works out. Hopefully, I’m not misinterpreting the impact of these settings.


----------



## Luminated67

MomentumMike said:


> My 5050ub is arriving in a couple of days. I’m replacing my Dwin HD-700, which was a trooper for 20 years!
> 
> My screen is a 16:9, 110” Stewart THX microperf with 1.8 gain. My throw distance will be about 11’ 4”, so I’ll nearly be maxing out the wide angle zoom. So... The brightness calculator at that link has me concerned. Even the low lamp calc comes out to 68 fL, i.e., “too bright”. What does that mean? Am I in trouble?
> 
> My theater is in the basement and moving the pj’s ceiling mount position farther from the screen would mean a jump across the main beam of the house and anchoring it to joists that are under an exercise room. I’m concerned that the vibrations from high impact aerobics would damage the pj. (I’d also have to do some nasty rewiring to retain the aesthetics.) So, installing the 5050ub in the same spot as the Dwin seemed reasonable to me, until now.


Your throw is similar to mine and was wondering with your gain roughly double mine how did you overcome the brightness. How far down did you end up closing the Iris for SDR?


----------



## aoaaron

Is anyone here using MADVR with their 6050s? I know a lot of owners on the 6040 thread are? 

Interested to hearing findings


----------



## biglen

aoaaron said:


> Is anyone here using MADVR with their 6050s? I know a lot of owners on the 6040 thread are?
> 
> Interested to hearing findings


I use it with my 5050.


----------



## aoaaron

biglen said:


> I use it with my 5050.



How is it? 

I'm torn between a 6050UB (9400) for 2300 or a 6040UB (9300) for 1000. 

It will likely only be for films and 3D films so I'm not sure if the jump up in price justifies what I'll be using it for. All of my HDR content is ran through MADVR. 
All my games will be on a 77'' OLED (until I make the jump to a native 4K projector next year).


----------



## biglen

aoaaron said:


> How is it?
> 
> I'm torn between a 6050UB (9400) for 2300 or a 6040UB (9300) for 1000.
> 
> It will likely only be for films and 3D films so I'm not sure if the jump up in price justifies what I'll be using it for. All of my HDR content is ran through MADVR.
> All my games will be on a 77'' OLED (until I make the jump to a native 4K projector next year).


I love it. I'm using a RTX2060 Super, so my settings are pretty high, and I definitely see a difference when using MadVR. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MomentumMike

Luminated67 said:


> Your throw is similar to mine and was wondering with your gain roughly double mine how did you overcome the brightness. How far down did you end up closing the Iris for SDR?


I don’t have the pj yet. It’s due to arrive on Tuesday. I’ll probably fiddle with the settings for hours. I’ll let you know the outcome. Others must have had similar situations and I haven’t seen any posts about returning a 5050ub because of too much brightness, but who knows. Guess I’m looking on the bright side. (That was a bad joke. They should ban me for that one.)

Let me know if you have any suggestions or are interested in the effect of certain settings on my config.


----------



## Luminated67

MomentumMike said:


> I don’t have the pj yet. It’s due to arrive on Tuesday. I’ll probably fiddle with the settings for hours. I’ll let you know the outcome. Others must have had similar situations and I haven’t seen any posts about returning a 5050ub because of too much brightness, but who knows. Guess I’m looking on the bright side. (That was a bad joke. They should ban me for that one.)
> 
> Let me know if you have any suggestions or are interested in the effect of certain settings on my config.


My old screen was a 1.2 gain 100” and the Iris was closed down to -16, so I reckon you will need to be at least -18 with your slightly bigger screen and quite a bit more gain. My new 112” scope screen is grey and only has 0.9 gain and I’ve adjusted the Iris to -13/14 but will hopefully get it recalibrated in the new year at some point.

One thing is for sure HDR will not be a problem for you. LOL


----------



## DaGamePimp

aoaaron said:


> Is anyone here using MADVR with their 6050s? I know a lot of owners on the 6040 thread are?
> 
> Interested to hearing findings


It's a game changer for 'HDR' front projection, anyone not using it with a capable FP is missing out. 

I have the software fairly maxed out with a 2080ti and it's an obvious step up from my Panasonic 820 (regardless of settings used on the 820).

I just wish there was a retail disc playback method without having to rip to hard drive first and still be able to max out settings on a high end gpu. 
- Of course there will be with their new hardware that's coming but IMO it is overpriced considering what's in the box, don't get me wrong... I'd love to own one but damn $$$$$. 

Best of luck,
- Jason


----------



## aoaaron

DaGamePimp said:


> It's a game changer for 'HDR' front projection, anyone not using it with a capable FP is missing out.
> 
> I have the software fairly maxed out with a 2080ti and it's an obvious step up from my Panasonic 820 (regardless of settings used on the 820).
> 
> I just wish there was a retail disc playback method without having to rip to hard drive first and still be able to max out settings on a high end gpu.
> - Of course there will be with their new hardware that's coming but IMO it is overpriced considering what's in the box, don't get me wrong... I'd love to own one but damn $$$$$.
> 
> Best of luck,
> - Jason


Thanks Jason. Could you share your settings with me incase I go for ther 9300 or 9400? 

I think my plan is to get in my LG OLED CX 77''. If it sucks or is a bad sample, I will give up on OLEDs temproarily and buy the 6050 (9400). If its okay, I'll get a 6040 (9300) for films and 3D films.. I doubt I will miss much as ALL of my content for films is ran through madvr except for 3D films which won't require tone mapping I assume.


----------



## pdeswardt

Hi Guys

I just bought the European version of the 6050UB ( EH-TW9400 ), but I just want to know which throw calculator is the most accurate to use for this model :

1. The Epson Throw Simulator : Epson Throw Distance Simulator
2. Projector Central's throw calculator

Each produces a different set of values based on my desired screen size of 150/160" (given the same inputs ), so I don't know which one is more accurate

Any advice is appreciated.

Cheers


----------



## Pretorian

biglen said:


> Will the projector be against the back wall? If it is, can you build a box into the wall, to get the projector further back, which would give you a bigger picture? That's what I did.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Ok. This is exactly what I am planning of doing. Do you have more pictures of the ”box”? Whats on the other side of the wall?


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> Ok. This is exactly what I am planning of doing. Do you have more pictures of the ”box”? Whats on the other side of the wall?


See post #9185

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MomentumMike

pdeswardt said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> I just bought the European version of the 6050UB ( EH-TW9400 ), but I just want to know which throw calculator is the most accurate to use for this model :
> 
> 1. The Epson Throw Simulator : Epson Throw Distance Simulator
> 2. Projector Central's throw calculator
> 
> Each produces a different set of values based on my desired screen size of 150/160" (given the same inputs ), so I don't know which one is more accurate
> 
> Any advice is appreciated.
> 
> Cheers


Just consider the zoom value if using Epson. It managed to give me the wrong impression. Maybe I wasn‘t paying enough attention.


----------



## MomentumMike

Luminated67 said:


> My old screen was a 1.2 gain 100” and the Iris was closed down to -16, so I reckon you will need to be at least -18 with your slightly bigger screen and quite a bit more gain. My new 112” scope screen is grey and only has 0.9 gain and I’ve adjusted the Iris to -13/14 but will hopefully get it recalibrated in the new year at some point.
> 
> One thing is for sure HDR will not be a problem for you. LOL


Now I just have to find some good HDR media! ... What have you seen as far as the negative effects of closing the iris? Anything very significant? This pj is very contrast-capable out of the box.


----------



## skullnrose

I currently own an epson 5040 with the wireless transmitter. The projector will no longer power up. If I buy the epson 5050 can I use the wireless transmitter from my 5040 with it?


----------



## ckronengold

Jeeeeezum, dudes. One teeeny tiny pandemic and I miss 100+ pages of posts. Gonna take me a while to catch up. 

Nice to come back to reports of updated firmware with significant improvement. I needed something new to play with.


----------



## Luminated67

MomentumMike said:


> Now I just have to find some good HDR media! ... What have you seen as far as the negative effects of closing the iris? Anything very significant? This pj is very contrast-capable out of the box.


On HDR content where I am using the Digital Cinema mode with the filter my Iris is wide open at 0. I’m thinking that for you with such a high gain you will probably keep the Iris at 0 but only need to use Eco lamp mode.


----------



## Kieran

st2006 said:


> They changed it and its a pain to find it now. Start typing your keyword in the search box that says "search community". You should see 3 options in the dropdown while typing - one of them will let you search in the current thread


THANKYOU!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL... couldn't for the life of me figure that out.


----------



## Kieran

twistone said:


> The Epson does not do that sort of dynamic on-the-fly tone mapping that you're referring to. That's why you'll see a lot of suggestions to pair it with a Panasonic DP-UB820 or 420 since they seem to do a good job of tone mapping for the price. I was impatient and bought the Sony UBP-X700 (which I like) but am considering picking up a 420 while they are on sale. For the price, I'll keep both and the loser gets the living room.


What's the 820 got that the 420 doesn't?


----------



## twistone

Kieran said:


> What's the 820 got that the 420 doesn't?


From my limited research, the 820 is bigger with better build quality, has Dolby Vision, and multichannel analog audio outputs. Not sure if there is anything else, but those seem to be the major differences.


----------



## citsur86

Deciding on my screen build and have some questions on the 5050UB's ability with CIH. If i built a 158" horizonal 2.35:1 screen, the 5050UB is able to automatically switch between the full 2.35:1 and a side letterboxed 16:9 image (126')? Or, if I choose to go with a 160" 16:9, the projector could switch to a 2.35:1 (151" horizonat) aspect ratio with the image bumped to the top of the screen, for example (masking coming up from the bottom)?


----------



## twistone

It's not going to automatically switch aspect ratios but, using the lens shift/zoom/focus and memory settings you can program up to 10 aspect ratios and achieve what you described. There are dedicated buttons on the remote for the first two and a 'memory' button to (more) easily access all 10 settings. I'm currently using a 144-inch 16:9 screen and have the first option set-up to move 2.35:1 content down to the bottom and use the screen border to mask the bottom 'bar' (the top bar doesn't bother me). My 2nd button returns the image to the full 16:9 setting. It's a pretty handy feature!


----------



## rupedogg24

lamotia said:


> Hi all,
> I've recently purchased the UB6050 for my home setup. I've connected it to my Yamaha RX-A860 receiver. However when I switch to my PS4 PRO or PS5 and I try to play a game that's in HDR I get the following message - "The resolution is set to 1080p because the connected device doesn't support 2160p/HDR". This is really strange since I'm able to watch videos that are 2160p/HDR. Also I'm using a 18Gbit HDMI 2.0 cable that should in practice be able to handle 2160p/HDR/30 FPS at least. What am I doing wrong? Is there a specific option that I should enable somewhere to make it work? Is buying an HDMI 2.1 cable going to fix this for me since the UB6050 only has HDMI 2.0 ports?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


If your Yamaha has an enhanced HDMI feature you need to turn it on. I had the same issue with my onkyo receiver until I found a hidden menu to turn on ENHANCED HDMI. problem solved. I know Denons have the same feature. 

Makes you wonder why the manufacturer would do that. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## rupedogg24

wookiegr said:


> I have the same problem. There's a problem with the way the new consoles output hdmi 2.1. I think it forces bandwidth that hdmi 2.0 can't handle as opposed to just auto detecting hdmi type.


If you're connecting thru an AVR you may have to turn on your HDMI 2.1 capabilities or enhanced HDMI.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## RRF

RRF said:


> Good advice.
> Just to update...my lamp arrived in Toronto, at my door, in 23 hours from Miami FL., via FedEx. Amazing !


NotSoFast...New Lamp _(Epson ELPLP89 V13H010L89 ) _was noticeably dimmer than the factory lamp. 
A couple of luminosity measurements confirmed that the new lamp was putting out less than half the nits with a 100% White source. A return is in the works.


----------



## TTFORUM

Quick Question that I probably could find in the manual (didn't RTFM), but does the projector always start back with the last loaded memory or does it start with memory 1 each time? e.g. If I had memory 4 set while watching sports, would it come back to memory 4 next time? Are you able to set a default memory?


----------



## TTFORUM

Hopinater said:


> I'm using a Silver Ticket screen and it looks really good, I'm very pleased with it. But you're going a lot bigger than what I have and your set up is completely different than mine so my input probably isn't worth much in relation to your situation. But I have a 100" Grey screen with a 1.0 gain. The blacks look great as do the colors.


Curious if you tried the white screen first and how you'd compare the two? I have the white screen now which looks fantastic in bright scenes. I have their samples for grey, silver, and high contrast. All three of them really help with blacks, but all three do reduce overall brightness (of course). The samples are so small that it is hard to really envision what it would be like on their own and if I'd feel like they'd reduce brightness too much.


----------



## Stridulent

Is now a good time to buy this project being that it was released in 2019? Will a new version be coming out soon? I'm looking to upgrade my Epson 8350 (I'm expecting this will be a huge difference). What screen material would you recommend with the 5050ub? I have a completely light controlled room with matte black and navy surfaces.

Specifically asking about screen material because I like the idea of custom building the frame myself.


----------



## Pretorian

I have my own dedicated theater as you can see on the pic. 
i want to upgrade from 16:9 104” screen to a 128” 2.35:1 screen. To produce that size I will need to move my projector and place it on this side of the room above that small TV. I will make a hole in the wall so the image can fit and I will build a shelf/hush box and place it on. 
Is it important to have the lens centered in front of the screen?
Is there anything else I need to consider doing this?


----------



## AVTimme

Pretorian said:


> I have my own dedicated theater as you can see on the pic.
> i want to upgrade from 16:9 104” screen to a 128” 2.35:1 screen. To produce that size I will need to move my projector and place it on this side of the room above that small TV. I will make a hole in the wall so the image can fit and I will build a shelf/hush box and place it on.
> Is it important to have the lens centered in front of the screen?
> Is there anything else I need to consider doing this?
> 
> View attachment 3062202


Thanks to the lens shift there will be no problem not having the lens centered

I think that will be a wonderful setup


----------



## citsur86

Pretorian said:


> I have my own dedicated theater as you can see on the pic.
> i want to upgrade from 16:9 104” screen to a 128” 2.35:1 screen. To produce that size I will need to move my projector and place it on this side of the room above that small TV. I will make a hole in the wall so the image can fit and I will build a shelf/hush box and place it on.
> Is it important to have the lens centered in front of the screen?
> Is there anything else I need to consider doing this?


What is the distance from the screen to the 6050 now? I just figured out that my 5050UB will give me my 158' 2.35:1 screen at a distance of 16' 5" which is good since that will be the exact distance lens to screen!


----------



## Pretorian

AVTimme said:


> Thanks to the lens shift there will be no problem not having the lens centered
> 
> I think that will be a wonderful setup


Thank you (tack)
My biggest concern is the size of the opening for the shelf/box. I need to make the opening as wide as possible so none of the light/image will hit the box frame. 
I think I will have to make a test frame and hold in front of the projector. I dont think there is any calculator that can tell me the angle the image from that projector needs.


----------



## Hopinater

TTFORUM said:


> Curious if you tried the white screen first and how you'd compare the two? I have the white screen now which looks fantastic in bright scenes. I have their samples for grey, silver, and high contrast. All three of them really help with blacks, but all three do reduce overall brightness (of course). The samples are so small that it is hard to really envision what it would be like on their own and if I'd feel like they'd reduce brightness too much.


I didn't try the white screen because I'm in a room that has some ambient light due to it not being blacked out and based on all that I have read the grey screen would work best to deliver good blacks in a room like my own. And I have to say it does work very well, my blacks are better than on my 4K LED TV. And the bright scenes look great as well (I actually don't think I would want any brighter) so I feel like I chose the right screen for my room and viewing environment. But I have found myself wondering at times what a white screen would look like. Too bad it's difficult to demo different screens.


----------



## AVTimme

Pretorian said:


> Thank you (tack)
> My biggest concern is the size of the opening for the shelf/box. I need to make the opening as wide as possible so none of the light/image will hit the box frame.
> I think I will have to make a test frame and hold in front of the projector. I dont think there is any calculator that can tell me the angle the image from that projector needs.


(alltid kul med svenskar!)
Thats a great idea  Then you’ll know how wide the opening needs to be. Keeps us posted!


----------



## twistone

skullnrose said:


> If I buy the epson 5050 can I use the wireless transmitter from my 5040 with it?


I thought about that (adding wireless after the fact) when I was deciding on the 5050 but didn't see a concrete answer in my very brief search. You'd think there needs to be something internal to the projector itself that's needed to work with the transmitter. I stopped thinking about it when I found that the wireless is limited to 4K/30 and I'd be missing out on one big reason for upgrading to the 5050 - the 18Gbps HDMI inputs that allow 4K60 HDR. Moot point if you don't want/need those inputs though (I did).


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> I have my own dedicated theater as you can see on the pic.
> i want to upgrade from 16:9 104” screen to a 128” 2.35:1 screen. To produce that size I will need to move my projector and place it on this side of the room above that small TV. I will make a hole in the wall so the image can fit and I will build a shelf/hush box and place it on.
> Is it important to have the lens centered in front of the screen?
> Is there anything else I need to consider doing this?
> 
> View attachment 3062202


I'd put a fan in the box, to pull the hot air out. Mine is in a box, and it was getting over 100° in there. The fan now keeps it at 80°. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## TTFORUM

Hopinater said:


> I didn't try the white screen because I'm in a room that has some ambient light due to it not being blacked out and based on all that I have read the grey screen would work best to deliver good blacks in a room like my own. And I have to say it does work very well, my blacks are better than on my 4K LED TV. And the bright scenes look great as well (I actually don't think I would want any brighter) so I feel like I chose the right screen for my room and viewing environment. But I have found myself wondering at times what a white screen would look like. Too bad it's difficult to demo different screens.


Thanks, just to be sure, are you using the Matte Grey or the High Contrast Grey? Any hot spotting?


----------



## Pretorian

citsur86 said:


> What is the distance from the screen to the 6050 now? I just figured out that my 5050UB will give me my 158' 2.35:1 screen at a distance of 16' 5" which is good since that will be the exact distance lens to screen!


As of now I have 3,1m or 10 ft. I think I will need almost 14 ft.


----------



## aoaaron

Stridulent said:


> Is now a good time to buy this project being that it was released in 2019? Will a new version be coming out soon? I'm looking to upgrade my Epson 8350 (I'm expecting this will be a huge difference). What screen material would you recommend with the 5050ub? I have a completely light controlled room with matte black and navy surfaces.
> 
> Specifically asking about screen material because I like the idea of custom building the frame myself.



We will either hear about a new Epson PJ in January CES 2021 or in April/May time which is historically when announcements have been made. 
I expect new model to be out in the wild by next year September/October and probably fully available December 2021. 

I think if you get a good price and deal on the 6050, I see no need to wait if fulfills your needs.

Next upgrades will be:
1. DTM
2. Native 4K 

To match JVC on the basic spec sheet. Darastic contrast improvement has not come from Epson for ages now so I don't see that happening. Only other thing which could be introduced is laser. Given some DLPs have done this at a budget. Epson could also offer this but maybe at a 1k premium, which would mean the Epson 9400 would still be a compelling choice at its price point. 

Maybe they will have a new SKU. So Epson 9500 bulb based 4K DTM. Then an Epson laser range which is 1k more expensive. Hopefuilly they dont do this and just eat the cost so we can get laser mainstream. 

Altho TBH Epson bulbs are so cheap, and Epson so willing to give them out if you need one inside warranty, that I don't think laser is a big deal for Epson owners.

Laser is bigger deal for JVC users and Sony where if their bulb dies they need to pay 10% of the cost of the bulb to get one which is not a knock off.


----------



## citsur86

Pretorian said:


> As of now I have 3,1m or 10 ft. I think I will need almost 14 ft.


According to the ProjectorPro app I use, you will need 13' 3" to get a 128" 2.35:1 screen from the 6050UB.


----------



## TTFORUM

Hopinater said:


> I didn't try the white screen because I'm in a room that has some ambient light due to it not being blacked out and based on all that I have read the grey screen would work best to deliver good blacks in a room like my own. And I have to say it does work very well, my blacks are better than on my 4K LED TV. And the bright scenes look great as well (I actually don't think I would want any brighter) so I feel like I chose the right screen for my room and viewing environment. But I have found myself wondering at times what a white screen would look like. Too bad it's difficult to demo different screens.


Just checking, did you happen to use the silver ticket grey or high contrast grey?


----------



## Pretorian

citsur86 said:


> According to the ProjectorPro app I use, you will need 13' 3" to get a 128" 2.35:1 screen from the 6050UB.


Thanks.

My biggest concern is to be able to "fit" the opening of the lamp so it will not hit the walls so to speak. The walls of the box or shelf that I am building.
All the calculators tell me the distance from screen to be able to produce a certain size but I am afraid I wont be able to make a whole that is big enough for the light.
Maybe I just need to create a frame of card board (as I said before) to see how big of an opening I will need. Ahh.. I just need som support.


----------



## Hopinater

TTFORUM said:


> Just checking, did you happen to use the silver ticket grey or high contrast grey?


Grey


----------



## AVTimme

Pretorian said:


> Thanks.
> 
> My biggest concern is to be able to "fit" the opening of the lamp so it will not hit the walls so to speak. The walls of the box or shelf that I am building.
> All the calculators tell me the distance from screen to be able to produce a certain size but I am afraid I wont be able to make a whole that is big enough for the light.
> Maybe I just need to create a frame of card board (as I said before) to see how big of an opening I will need. Ahh.. I just need som support.


create the box and try, then come back and report!


----------



## Kieran

I'm planning to place my 5050ub inside a soffit on the back wall of my media room. I'll have a glass window from Home Theatre Glass for the image to pass through. I expect that the front of the projector will be just a couple/few inches from the front wall of the soffit (in which glass window will be). I'm worried about ventilation since both intake and exhaust vents for the epson are on the front. I'm going to have room air cycling through the soffit (which is about 18 feet long, with a 2' deep x 1' high x-section) with an intake on one end, and a fan pushing into the attic on the other. Above the soffit is insulation then roof.
Should I be concerned?


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> I'm planning to place my 5050ub inside a soffit on the back wall of my media room. I'll have a glass window from Home Theatre Glass for the image to pass through. I expect that the front of the projector will be just a couple/few inches from the front wall of the soffit (in which glass window will be). I'm worried about ventilation since both intake and exhaust vents for the epson are on the front. I'm going to have room air cycling through the soffit (which is about 18 feet long, with a 2' deep x 1' high x-section) with an intake on one end, and a fan pushing into the attic on the other. Above the soffit is insulation then roof.
> Should I be concerned?


Why do you feel the need to have glass in the front? I have my projector in a soffit as well, and my early plans were to use the glass, but at the end of the day, it didn't really make sense to do it. I think mine looks fine without glass, but maybe you have a reason to use the glass? This is the fan I use in the box, to keep it at 80°. 



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_aI5XFbQJPT9SB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## eastdigital

twistone said:


> It's not going to automatically switch aspect ratios but, using the lens shift/zoom/focus and memory settings you can program up to 10 aspect ratios and achieve what you described. There are dedicated buttons on the remote for the first two and a 'memory' button to (more) easily access all 10 settings. I'm currently using a 144-inch 16:9 screen and have the first option set-up to move 2.35:1 content down to the bottom and use the screen border to mask the bottom 'bar' (the top bar doesn't bother me). My 2nd button returns the image to the full 16:9 setting. It's a pretty handy feature!


Thanks for this response. I have as well narrowed my projector to be 5050UB. So then can I achieve 2.35:1 ratio using the existing 16:9 (135") screen? Just have to mask the bottom and top?


----------



## DaGamePimp

Generally the best solution to 'behind/inside a wall' is a porthole through (slightly larger than the size of the lens, glass or not) and open space behind the wall (vs inside a box that's still technically in the room).

In the case of the Epson you would need to leave a bit of space in front since the vents are there but then the warm air can be dealt with from behind the wall and fan noise from the PJ will also be much less.

Many of the high end installs are done in this manner.

- Jason


----------



## Kieran

Pretorian said:


> My biggest concern is the size of the opening for the shelf/box. I need to make the opening as wide as possible so none of the light/image will hit the box frame.
> I think I will have to make a test frame and hold in front of the projector.* I dont think there is any calculator that can tell me the angle the image from that projector needs.*


This is just trigonometry & geometry. I can help if you provide the distances, if you're not facile with the math.


----------



## Kieran

DaGamePimp said:


> Generally the best solution to 'behind/inside a wall' is a porthole through (slightly larger than the size of the lens, glass or not) and open space behind the wall (vs inside a box that's still technically in the room).
> 
> In the case of the Epson you would need to leave a bit of space in front since the vents are there but then the warm air can be dealt with from behind the wall and fan noise from the PJ will also be much less.
> 
> Many of the high end installs are done in this manner.
> 
> - Jason


Thanks for the tips, Jason. In my case I can't extend out the other side of the back wall. I have a soffit that the projector will fit in, but it will just barely fit with wires coming off the back etc. I can't change this geometry. I can adjust a couple inches front to back as recommended for front vent spacing. But I can't shove the projector a foot or more back and have the back end open in another room. Just can't happen.

That said, the soffit can (will, if I do it this way) be pretty well ventilated. But that ventilation will be a slow movement of room-temp air along the length of the soffit, intake at one end, exhaust at the other, with the projector in the middle. I'm hoping this will be sufficient.


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> Why do you feel the need to have glass in the front? I have my projector in a soffit as well, and my early plans were to use the glass, but at the end of the day, it didn't really make sense to do it. I think mine looks fine without glass, but maybe you have a reason to use the glass? This is the fan I use in the box, to keep it at 80°.


Hey thanks for the suggestion! 
While I personally really like the look and design of your setup, it would fail my WAF specifications.  I need to hide the projector as much as possible. She agreed to a window, but that's all. She thought we were going to have a motorized mount that dropped down from the soffit, until I explained it would be too expensive not to mention there isn't really room in the soffit for most motorized retractable projector mounts. 
I could just nicely frame a small hole for the light to pass through, and not have glass, but the framed glass is only about $170 or so, and would minimize dust on the projector and reduce noise a bit.


----------



## biglen

Ah, the wife factor.......

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Kieran

biglen said:


> Ah, the wife factor.......


 Yep! 
BTW, I recognize _Leon: The Professional_ (great flick) but what movie is on the poster to the right of your Epson?


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## biglen

Kieran said:


> Yep!
> BTW, I recognize _Leon: The Professional_ (great flick) but what movie is on the poster to the right of your Epson?


Big Trouble in Little China. They are actually sound absorbing posters that I made. My movie room had a little echo to it, and now it's as dead as a corpse......

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> Big Trouble in Little China. They are actually sound absorbing posters that I made. My movie room had a little echo to it, and now it's as dead as a corpse......
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Nice. I thought that kind of looked like Kurt Russell, but wasn't sure and didn't recognize/remember the long monster-looking fingers.


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## AVTimme

More pictures of your Epsons projectors would be nice! Could you share your setups?


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## anilrao

AVTimme said:


> More pictures of your Epsons projectors would be nice! Could you share your setups?


In the process of replacing the front row seats.


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## AVTimme

Wow that's so Nice!


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## anilrao

AVTimme said:


> Wow that's so Nice!


Thanks! We have a lot of fun with it.


----------



## twistone

eastdigital said:


> So then can I achieve 2.35:1 ratio using the existing 16:9 (135") screen? Just have to mask the bottom and top?


Correct, that's what I'm doing right now, minus the masking. The 5050 is more useful when going in the other direction though, when you need to resize the taller 16:9 image to fit inside of the shorter 2.35:1 screen. In that case, you'd consider masking the left/right instead.


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## platinum00

anilrao said:


> In the process of replacing the front row seats.


What seats did you have and what are you going with. Im in the market for new as well.


Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

anilrao said:


> Thanks! We have a lot of fun with it.


I always grin when I see actual flip down cinema seating, it's just so authentic... I dig it.  

- Jason


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## anilrao

platinum00 said:


> What seats did you have and what are you going with. Im in the market for new as well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


The front row has the new seats. They are Seatcraft Rialto Black Leather Manual. The fold-down seats in the back row are what were replaced in the front.


----------



## anilrao

DaGamePimp said:


> I always grin when I see actual flip down cinema seating, it's just so authentic... I dig it.
> 
> - Jason


These were great for the last 17 years! But my old bones demand something more comfortable, hence the new reclining seats in the front. Next year the back row! It does make me sad a little.


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## biglen

eastdigital said:


> Thanks for this response. I have as well narrowed my projector to be 5050UB. So then can I achieve 2.35:1 ratio using the existing 16:9 (135") screen? Just have to mask the bottom and top?


Any chance you can do a painted screen? That was the best decision I made in my theater room, because I can switch between 16:9 and 2.35:1, and never worry about black bars. The bars just blend right into the painted screen, and you can't see them. The screen is a light gray, as you can see in the pic. I'm throwing a 125" 16:9, and about 140" Scope on that screen..









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----------



## eastdigital

biglen said:


> Any chance you can do a painted screen? That was the best decision I made in my theater room, because I can switch between 16:9 and 2.35:1, and never worry about black bars. The bars just blend right into the painted screen, and you can't see them. The screen is a light gray, as you can see in the pic. I'm throwing a 125" 16:9, and about 140" Scope on that screen..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks for chiming in. I didn't think of that as I do have an option to color the wall. how high is your wall? My set-up is in the basement


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## eastdigital

twistone said:


> Correct, that's what I'm doing right now, minus the masking. The 5050 is more useful when going in the other direction though, when you need to resize the taller 16:9 image to fit inside of the shorter 2.35:1 screen. In that case, you'd consider masking the left/right instead.


Got it. Thank you!


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## biglen

eastdigital said:


> Thanks for chiming in. I didn't think of that as I do have an option to color the wall. how high is your wall? My set-up is in the basement


That's in my basement too. The ceiling is 7 1/2 feet high.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

biglen said:


> That's in my basement too. The ceiling is 7 1/2 feet high.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Ditto mine is 7.5ft high too and the reason I got this mount


----------



## Kieran

Can someone please supply heights of the lens from mounting surface for the 5050?
I'm trying to design and frame an in-soffit area for the projector, and need to know how big the window needs to be, and how high above the platform it needs to be.
So, if the 5050 is sitting on a flat surface, how high is the bottom of the lens from that surface, how high is the center of the lens, and how high is the top of the lens? (or how high is the center and what's the diameter? 
Much appreciated!


----------



## MomentumMike

Luminated67 said:


> Ditto mine is 7.5ft high too and the reason I got this mount


Cool. Got a free mount with my 5050ub (8” ht), but now I want this one! Ceiling ht is 7’-7.5”.


----------



## MomentumMike

Anybody know by what percent the 20 lens iris positions affect the light output?


----------



## Idreama300

Luminated67 said:


> Ditto mine is 7.5ft high too and the reason I got this mount


Do you have pictures of this mount in your own room? I have the same 7.5’ basement ceilings and have been looking from the lowest profile mount that works with the 5050.


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> Can someone please supply heights of the lens from mounting surface for the 5050?
> I'm trying to design and frame an in-soffit area for the projector, and need to know how big the window needs to be, and how high above the platform it needs to be.
> So, if the 5050 is sitting on a flat surface, how high is the bottom of the lens from that surface, how high is the center of the lens, and how high is the top of the lens? (or how high is the center and what's the diameter?
> Much appreciated!


The center of the lens is 4 inches from the bottom, if the projector is sitting on a shelf. 

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----------



## biglen

Idreama300 said:


> Do you have pictures of this mount in your own room? I have the same 7.5’ basement ceilings and have been looking from the lowest profile mount that works with the 5050.


Is there any way you can build a box in the back wall, to put the projector in? That's what I did.









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## Luminated67

MomentumMike said:


> Cool. Got a free mount with my 5050ub (8” ht), but now I want this one! Ceiling ht is 7’-7.5”.


The mount is a revelation, best guess is it’s 20mm thick so that’s all it’s dropping from the ceiling and though it doesn’t have the same precise fine adjustment that makes the peerless so easy to align once done it’s rock solid and won’t move.


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## Kieran

biglen said:


> The center of the lens is 4 inches from the bottom, if the projector is sitting on a shelf.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks! Any idea of the diameter of the lens?


----------



## arnemetis

Kieran said:


> Thanks! Any idea of the diameter of the lens?


It's hard to get an accurate measurement due to it being set back (and I don't want to risk scratching it,) but I'd say it's 2-1/2", or slightly less. No smaller than 2-3/8".


----------



## Idreama300

biglen said:


> Is there any way you can build a box in the back wall, to put the projector in? That's what I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My room is 30’ deep X 16‘ wide and the back wall is an exterior wall. In fact 3 of the walls are concrete exterior walls with 2x6 walls built inside of the concrete. I think the optimal throw distance was somewhere in the 16‘ range for my 135” screen. I’m really just trying to preserve as much headroom and line of sight from the back of the room as possible.


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> Thanks! Any idea of the diameter of the lens?


If you need that so you can cut a hole in a box, for the image to shoot through, then make it 6 3/4" in diameter. That's the size I made, and the image clears the cut hole. 

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----------



## Eskimo1

biglen said:


> If you need that so you can cut a hole in a box, for the image to shoot through, then make it 6 3/4" in diameter. That's the size I made, and the image clears the cut hole.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I'm guessing your enclosure is that size so it spans 2 wall studs? And is that front cover solid, or is that something like grille cloth? 

I'm in the middle of making the housing for mine, but wasn't planning on making it a hushbox (it'll be open at the front), but I was only making it 24"w x 9"h because I was _assuming_ that the only ventilation needed was all at the front of the 5050UB? (I was going to go even smaller like 22x8, but I figured a little fudge room isn't a bad thing) 
Thanks..


----------



## biglen

Eskimo1 said:


> I'm guessing your enclosure is that size so it spans 2 wall studs? And is that front cover solid, or is that something like grille cloth?
> 
> I'm in the middle of making the housing for mine, but wasn't planning on making it a hushbox (it'll be open at the front), but I was only making it 24"w x 9"h because I was _assuming_ that the only ventilation needed was all at the front of the 5050UB? (I was going to go even smaller like 22x8, but I figured a little fudge room isn't a bad thing)
> Thanks..


Yes, it's between 2 studs. I also wanted it bigger in case the projector didn't line up just right with the center of the screen. The front panel is just a piece of 1/8" plywood. It gets hot in there, so I installed a fan, which keeps it at 80°. That hole is open, and I still hear fan noise during quiet scenes. I'm considering getting a piece of projector glass, to cover the hole. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## eastdigital

Luminated67 said:


> Ditto mine is 7.5ft high too and the reason I got this mount


Thank you! Makes me feel much better now!


----------



## eastdigital

biglen said:


> That's in my basement too. The ceiling is 7 1/2 feet high.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


 Thank you for you help and advice!


----------



## TTFORUM

My Epson 5050UB recently stopped getting HDR signal. I had replaced my cables with a 50 FT Amazon Basics active optical HDMI and it seemed to work great. I was getting HDR. I just noticed a few days ago that it doesn't seem to be getting HDR anymore from either my 4K Roku or from my Xbox One X.

Here's the weirder part, on the Xbox One X, it doesn't send HDR. However, if I go into the "HDR Calibration" screen on the Xbox, the projector will go black for a second and when I bring up the signal screen or the project info screen, it says it is getting HDR. However, once I complete the calibration wizard, the screen goes dark again and goes back to SDR. I've tried randomly mashing at config, even changing the Xbox to 12 bit, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. See the below screenshots:

When not in wizard:









When in wizard:









Questions:

What are the right Xbox One X settings for the Epson 5050UB?
Is it possible that my cable has stopped performing as well? What cable would you all recommend?


----------



## fredworld

fredworld said:


> Here you go:* https://www.myprojectorlamps.com/projector-bulbs/Epson/ELPLP89.html*
> I got one a few weeks ago when they were having a 10% off sale on Epson lamps. Haven't tested it, yet, but it arrived looking intact. 6 month return policy


Today I tried to test my new (non-Epson) lamp that I purchased on September 9, 2020. Surprisingly, the module's retaining screws are oversized and won't catch to the projector's lamp socket chassis' threads. MyProjectorLamps told me they will replace the lamp. The photo shows the difference in size. Moral: check your lamps ASAP after purchase.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> Today I tried to test my new lamp that I purchased on September 9, 2020. Surprisingly, the module's retaining screws are oversized and won't catch to the projector's lamp socket chassis' threads. MyProjectorLamps told me they will replace the lamp. The photo shows the difference in size. Moral: check your lamps ASAP after purchase.
> View attachment 3063708


Thank you for this warning. I had 2 lamps i bought in october from lampsandparts and they suffer from exactly the same problem,screws are 0.3mm too large in the oem housing,and wont fit the thread on the projector..


----------



## platinum00

I don't need to replace my bulb yet but bought a replacement. Can anyone measure the thread thickness of the original or the one to big so I can check. Don't really want to take out my bulb with 200hrs on it.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

platinum00 said:


> I don't need to replace my bulb yet but bought a replacement. Can anyone measure the thread thickness of the original or the one to big so I can check. Don't really want to take out my bulb with 200hrs on it.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


I can't measure the thread pitch but my digital caliper reads 2.5mm for the shaft width of the screws for the lamp that must be exchanged. I'm awaiting an email from MyProjectorLamps for a return label. I hope this helps.

ps: it takes 5 minutes to replace the lamp in the projector. Even if the screws fit, it's advisable to be sure the lamp works. I wouldn't wait until you need to replace the original lamp. Alternatively, it's probably best to leave the replacement lamp in the projector and keep the original as a spare as another poster advised earlier in this thread.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> I can't measure the thread pitch but my digital caliper reads 2.5mm for the shaft width of the screws for the lamp that must be exchanged. I'm awaiting an email from MyProjectorLamps for a return label. I hope this helps.
> 
> ps: it takes 5 minutes to replace the lamp in the projector. Even if the screws fit, it's advisable to be sure the lamp works. I wouldn't wait until you need to replace the original lamp. Alternatively, it's probably best to leave the replacement lamp in the projector and keep the original as a spare as another poster advised earlier in this thread.


Could this be a metric vs us problem? As in the oem housings are meant for the US market 6050UB? Or would that be too expensive for Epson to run different size internals? Or is it just that the chinese suck at making precision stuff? All my Sony OEM lamps fit perfectly though..


----------



## platinum00

Thanks for the measurement. Im at 2.8mm on the replacement but I don't understand the issue.. the screws on the OEM lamp come out as well as the ones on the replacement bulb. Just swap the screws and good.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## sirius_basterd

I bought a CHF4500 mount for my 5050ub. Have some quick questions:

the ceiling joists will only let me put the center of the projector about 7” away from the center line of the screen. Will the lens shift be enough to compensate? The projector is about 10 feet from the screen
because the stud is only about 3” wide I can only put two of the four mount holes into studs. Is that safe? What do I do with the other two holes?


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

platinum00 said:


> Thanks for the measurement. Im at 2.8mm on the replacement but I don't understand the issue.. the screws on the OEM lamp come out as well as the ones on the replacement bulb. Just swap the screws and good.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


How did you get them out? Did you just screw them out,or had to use force to get them out? They are made so they dont fall out of the hpusing and into the projector.. Mine is ceiling mounted so they would fall onto the floor,but there is a reason they aint lose.


----------



## macmanjpc

Hey guys. I’m using a Sony UBP-X800 4K Blu-Ray player with my 5050UB. Is it better to set the player to upscale 1080 content and send to projector as 4K signal or to turn that feature off and send the native 1080 content to the projector and have the Epson upscale it? Thx.


----------



## platinum00

Tsunamijhoe said:


> How did you get them out? Did you just screw them out,or had to use force to get them out? They are made so they dont fall out of the hpusing and into the projector.. Mine is ceiling mounted so they would fall onto the floor,but there is a reason they aint lose.


Just pushed them up to the housing and screwed them out the rest of the way. That's a good point on being loose. I didnt put it back in the projector but as long as your careful im sure it would be ok.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## MomentumMike

After adjusting ECO, Natural mode black and white levels in my fully light-controlled room, with a throw of 11’-4”, and a screen gain of 1.8, I could only get down to 18.5 fL with the manual iris maxed out at -20. Bummer. I suppose that means I’ll have to mount this 5050ub in a different location than my prior projector. I’d rather do that than solve the problem by replacing my Stewart microperf screen. Still excited to get this calibrated and into use!


----------



## twistone

MomentumMike said:


> I could only get down to 18.5 fL


Is 18.5 fL too bright for you? That seems to be right within the recommended range for viewing in a dark theater but I've never actually measured mine. What ftL are you trying to achieve?

Keep in mind that you will lose a measurable amount of brightness within the first few hundred hours on a new lamp.


----------



## MomentumMike

twistone said:


> Is 18.5 fL too bright for you? That seems to be right within the recommended range for viewing in a dark theater but I've never actually measured mine. What ftL are you trying to achieve?
> 
> Keep in mind that you will lose a measurable amount of brightness within the first few hundred hours on a new lamp.


I think I’m struggling with it because I’m used to the subdued, but pleasant picture from the Dwin HD-700. I know the recommended max level is 22 fL. I was aiming for 14. I also know Digital Cinema mode material should be fine. I really appreciate your comment about the bulb dimming over time. That could be key. Do you know whether the typical decrease for this pj been quantified?


----------



## Zedekias

If anyone is curious, the 5050 truly seems to bend beneath my drop ceiling. Only the bottom of the lense is beneath the drop.

Screen is up next!









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Zedekias said:


> If anyone is curious, the 5050 truly seems to bend beneath my drop ceiling. Only the bottom of the lense is beneath the drop.
> 
> Screen is up next!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


The reason for this is that Epson engineers were trained by Angelina Jolie. She bent bullets they bent light.


----------



## twistone

MomentumMike said:


> Do you know whether the typical decrease for this pj been quantified?


I'm not aware of any specific estimates for the 5050. I've seen generic estimates about initial lamp brightness that I summarize to be "10 to 20% drop over the first 200-300 hours" but I'm no expert.

Here is an article on Projector Reviews about lamp life

They mention 20% over the first "several hundred" hours.


----------



## asolor78

Well was out of commission for 1week in october, my my built "may 2019" Epson 5050 began to make a loud flutterig sound that could be heard on the lamp side.. at 1st thought it was a fan with debris but it became unbearable when watching movies.. was in my warranty played the refurb lottery...but..guys.. im here to say..I Got a Brand new model... It came with 1.03 firmware but the local epson service shop was surprised. Just completed 120hrs on it .. am here just asking if there were any new calibrations made with the 1.04 firmware i updated too? Also those with ps5 systems.. eventually will make the jump..when its available.. but anyone have any comments on setting on both system and epson?.. could this epson do 1080p 120fps if by a firmware update? Oh and man Mandolorian on prev epson was at 1900hrs looked dim cranking hdr slider to a 3.... with new bulb in place.. wow i see why some exchange bulbs mid lifespan..


----------



## aoaaron

I spent one day with an Epson PJ.. 
Convinced me to return a 77'' OLED. 

1-0 projection. wow.


----------



## Pretorian

I did this video to demo my new DIY automatic blackout blinds that works really well.


----------



## Kieran

Pretorian said:


> I did this video to demo my new DIY automatic blackout blinds that works really well.


Awesome! I'm in the market for black out blinds!
Can you share what you used and how you did it please?


----------



## Idreama300

Kieran said:


> Awesome! I'm in the market for black out blinds!
> Can you share what you used and how you did it please?


I’m interested as well. Very cool setup.


----------



## Hopinater

asolor78 said:


> Oh and man Mandolorian on prev epson was at 1900hrs looked dim cranking hdr slider to a 3.... with new bulb in place.. wow i see why some exchange bulbs mid lifespan..


Good point. I just got my new Epson 5050 and we all love it but I've already been thinking about the bulb dimming over time and I think I'll be one of those people who replace the bulb mid lifespan. I bought the projector for it's picture quality so as soon I feel that suffers too much... time to change the bulb.


----------



## Kieran

Hopinater said:


> Good point. I just got my new Epson 5050 and we all love it but I've already been thinking about the bulb dimming over time and I think I'll be one of those people who replace the bulb mid lifespan. I bought the projector for it's picture quality so as soon I feel that suffers too much... time to change the bulb.


I don't even have my 5050UB yet, but with all this talk about bulbs, I kinda wish I'd more seriously considered a laser projector.
How often do people replace to keep good image quality? We will probably watch shows/movies an average of 10 hours / week to start (accounting for the "it's new" factor).
Where do you buy bulbs? Direct from Epson? How much do they cost? I saw some people use knock-offs, how much cheaper are those?


----------



## aoaaron

Kieran said:


> I don't even have my 5050UB yet, but with all this talk about bulbs, I kinda wish I'd more seriously considered a laser projector.
> How often do people replace to keep good image quality? We will probably watch shows/movies an average of 10 hours / week to start (accounting for the "it's new" factor).
> Where do you buy bulbs? Direct from Epson? How much do they cost? I saw some people use knock-offs, how much cheaper are those?


The bulbs are cheap AF. Just buy from Epson. 
The advantage of Epson Projectors is that their bulbs are amazingly well priced compared to the competition (JVC and Sony). 

Bulbs should not be a worry for Epson users. I can totally get Sony & JVC owners creaming over lasers to mitigate the costs of their very expensive bulb replacements but for Epson users, I don't think its really a tangible benefit. Laser is more important for other reasons IMO.


----------



## aoaaron

Anyone here using MADVR for DTM? Wanna share settings?


----------



## sddawson

I'm interested in how people handle scope screens with regard to all the varying aspects ratios these days. Of course, we have 16:9 and 2.35, but Netflix and AppleTV+ seems to often use their own aspect ratios which are neither of those (and different to each other). They are sort of slightly widescreen. So do you just project them as 2.35 and chop a little off the top and bottom, or do you use the lens memories to make their height fit and leave black bars at either side, much like you would with 16:9 content (although they would have narrower black bars). You'd end up with quite a few different lens memories, of course.


----------



## Kieran

aoaaron said:


> The bulbs are cheap AF. Just buy from Epson.
> The advantage of Epson Projectors is that their bulbs are amazingly well priced compared to the competition (JVC and Sony).
> 
> Bulbs should not be a worry for Epson users. I can totally get Sony & JVC owners creaming over lasers to mitigate the costs of their very expensive bulb replacements but for Epson users, I don't think its really a tangible benefit. Laser is more important for other reasons IMO.


Just checked. I don't think 11% of the MSRP of the projector is "cheap AF". How much are the Sony & JVC bulbs in comparison? Yikes.
How long do they last?


----------



## gunlife

Kieran said:


> Just checked. I don't think 11% of the MSRP of the projector is "cheap AF". How much are the Sony & JVC bulbs in comparison? Yikes.
> How long do they last?


I ran may last one till around 2500hrs. Have about 700 on new one going strong. Thats why he says cheap AF. You can get 2000hrs for a few hundred bucks. 

So if you say 10hrs a week? Thats means you can go for 2 years and only be at 1000hrs.


----------



## Zedekias

I'm just now getting my theater up and running. (no screen and only 2.0 at the very moment.) So I still have a good amount of money to throw at it. But should I buy a lamp sooner than later? Do they manufacture the lamps well after the latest projector model comes out? I'd hate to have my lamp die 3 or 4 years from now and I'm **** out of luck. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## aoaaron

Kieran said:


> Just checked. I don't think 11% of the MSRP of the projector is "cheap AF". How much are the Sony & JVC bulbs in comparison? Yikes.
> How long do they last?



I think you can probably google most of this information and get accurate info.


----------



## Kieran

Zedekias said:


> I'm just now getting my theater up and running. (no screen and only 2.0 at the very moment.) So I still have a good amount of money to throw at it. But should I buy a lamp sooner than later? Do they manufacture the lamps well after the latest projector model comes out? I'd hate to have my lamp die 3 or 4 years from now and I'm **** out of luck.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Wondering the same....


----------



## Kieran

Just realized that the 3D glasses for the 5050UB are no longer produced. I hoping / assuming that other branded active RF 3D glasses can work too. 
Any 3D aficionados in this thread care to offer some suggestions as to currently available 3rd party 3D glasses that work well?


----------



## Werewolf79

Kieran said:


> Just realized that the 3D glasses for the 5050UB are no longer produced. I hoping / assuming that other branded active RF 3D glasses can work too.
> Any 3D aficionados in this thread care to offer some suggestions as to currently available 3rd party 3D glasses that work well?


I bought these ones.






Hi-SHOCK RF Pro "Black Heaven" | 3D Glasses for RF: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics


Shop Hi-SHOCK RF Pro "Black Heaven" | 3D Glasses for RF Projectors by EPSON, JVC & SONY | compatible with ELPGS03, EB-W16, EH-TW550, EH-TW570, EH-TW5910 [120 Hz | FHD3DRF | rechargeable | 32g]. Free delivery and returns on eligible orders.



www.amazon.co.uk





They work very well but be aware after calibration I get 3.2ft lambert brightness, the dynamic mode can give about 4.4 ft lambert but some detail Is lost and cannot be retrieved even when lowering contrast so I choose 3D cinema mode, our eyes adjust to brightness anyways so no great loss but I wish we could get 10ft lambert brightness in 3D, maybe one day.

Make sure the 3D is set to medium on this projector, I notice some issues when set at the highest setting even though the setting does not affect these glasses.


----------



## fredworld

Werewolf79 said:


> I bought these ones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi-SHOCK RF Pro "Black Heaven" | 3D Glasses for RF: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics
> 
> 
> Shop Hi-SHOCK RF Pro "Black Heaven" | 3D Glasses for RF Projectors by EPSON, JVC & SONY | compatible with ELPGS03, EB-W16, EH-TW550, EH-TW570, EH-TW5910 [120 Hz | FHD3DRF | rechargeable | 32g]. Free delivery and returns on eligible orders.
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They work very well but be aware after calibration I get 3.2ft lambert brightness, the dynamic mode can give about 4.4 ft lambert but some detail Is lost and cannot be retrieved even when lowering contrast so I choose 3D cinema mode, our eyes adjust to brightness anyways so no great loss but I wish we could get 10ft lambert brightness in 3D, maybe one day.
> 
> Make sure the 3D is set to medium on this projector, I notice some issues when set at the highest setting even though the setting does not affect these glasses.


My recommendations are in *this link*. YMMV


----------



## mon2479

sddawson said:


> I'm interested in how people handle scope screens with regard to all the varying aspects ratios these days. Of course, we have 16:9 and 2.35, but Netflix and AppleTV+ seems to often use their own aspect ratios which are neither of those (and different to each other). They are sort of slightly widescreen. So do you just project them as 2.35 and chop a little off the top and bottom, or do you use the lens memories to make their height fit and leave black bars at either side, much like you would with 16:9 content (although they would have narrower black bars). You'd end up with quite a few different lens memories, of course.


I set my aspect ratio to where the black bars go away on the top and bottom, but I still end up with bars on the left and right. I save that as "NETFLIX". It works with some disney+ movies as well. It's all we can do since that format is like a hybrid half wide screen and half 16:9.

Where I really struggle with, are IMAX movies like transformers the last knight, hate those.


----------



## Werewolf79

MomentumMike said:


> I think I’m struggling with it because I’m used to the subdued, but pleasant picture from the Dwin HD-700. I know the recommended max level is 22 fL. I was aiming for 14. I also know Digital Cinema mode material should be fine. I really appreciate your comment about the bulb dimming over time. That could be key. Do you know whether the typical decrease for this pj been quantified?


I have measured, I am on almost 400 hours now and I have lost approx just 1ft lambert of brightness, I imagine it will start to dim more soon, I like 18ft lambert to 20ft lambert brightness and have calibrated for Eco and Medium for normal blu ray and HD content but I also bought an NDx2 filter and have a medium lamp calibration for that which gives me 20ft lambert with the manual iris full open.

My i1 Pro D3 meter does not appear to measure black levels below 0.0028 ft lambert, might just be my meter, sound and vision claim 0.001 ft lambert blacks with the dynamic iris on, I think that’s probably right, I have never noticed issues running the iris except for some film titles such as The Things opening titles which pump, actual content seems fine.

Someone mentioned the bulb prices, at 4% of the projector cost direct from the manufacturer, yes I think that’s cheap AF too, but I am using this projector 10 hours a day so I will probably keep an eye on how it dims.


----------



## Werewolf79

fredworld said:


> My recommendations are in *this link*. YMMV


I wear glasses, the Samsung which I also have some pairs of just do not work for me, I really have never liked them.


----------



## Terence

sddawson said:


> I'm interested in how people handle scope screens with regard to all the varying aspects ratios these days. Of course, we have 16:9 and 2.35, but Netflix and AppleTV+ seems to often use their own aspect ratios which are neither of those (and different to each other). They are sort of slightly widescreen. So do you just project them as 2.35 and chop a little off the top and bottom, or do you use the lens memories to make their height fit and leave black bars at either side, much like you would with 16:9 content (although they would have narrower black bars). You'd end up with quite a few different lens memories, of course.


I have a memory saved with the blanking feat that I use for films with switching aspect ratios, works great for my needs. Far as the streaming apps I have lens positions saved for different aspects like 16:9, 2.35:1, 18:9 and 2.11:1 when the content is available. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

Terence said:


> I have a memory saved with the blanking feat that I use for films with switching aspect ratios, works great for my needs. Far as the streaming apps I have lens positions saved for different aspects like 16:9, 2.35:1, 18:9 and 2.11:1 when the content is available.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for that. So with the blanking, you mean you just chop off the top and bottom for when the picture goes “large”? Would you use blanking for normal 2.35 movies too, rather then projecting the black (greyish) bars? Overall, do you think going to a scope screen is a good move (I have a 16:9 screen at present), and _hate_ the black bars top and bottom.


mon2479 said:


> I set my aspect ratio to where the black bars go away on the top and bottom, but I still end up with bars on the left and right. I save that as "NETFLIX". It works with some disney+ movies as well. It's all we can do since that format is like a hybrid half wide screen and half 16:9.
> 
> Where I really struggle with, are IMAX movies like transformers the last knight, hate those.


Excellent, thanks. With the IMAX movies, You mean the ones with changing aspect ratios, as discussed above?


----------



## momofx

Kieran said:


> Just realized that the 3D glasses for the 5050UB are no longer produced. I hoping / assuming that other branded active RF 3D glasses can work too.
> Any 3D aficionados in this thread care to offer some suggestions as to currently available 3rd party 3D glasses that work well?


The Samsung 3D glasses work really good. I'm using SSG3100GB and it's just as good as the Epson ones (I have those too).


----------



## imureh

Kieran said:


> Just realized that the 3D glasses for the 5050UB are no longer produced. I hoping / assuming that other branded active RF 3D glasses can work too.
> Any 3D aficionados in this thread care to offer some suggestions as to currently available 3rd party 3D glasses that work well?


I got these. They are excellent and a good price too

XPAND X105-RF-X1 Rechargeable 3D... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFO4XSA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Terence

sddawson said:


> Thanks for that. So with the blanking, you mean you just chop off the top and bottom for when the picture goes “large”? Would you use blanking for normal 2.35 movies too, rather then projecting the black (greyish) bars? Overall, do you think going to a scope screen is a good move (I have a 16:9 screen at present), and _hate_ the black bars top and bottom.
> 
> Excellent, thanks. With the IMAX movies, You mean the ones with changing aspect ratios, as discussed above?


Correct! I blank the top and bottom so when the IMAX scenes pop up I don’t see it happening. I don’t blank out 2.35:1 movies, I have black velvet above and below my screen to soak them up. I cant go back to 16:9 screen because I hate the black bars but 90% of the content I watch is in 2.35:1 in my HT.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sddawson

Terence said:


> Correct! I blank the top and bottom so when the IMAX scenes pop up I don’t see it happening. I don’t blank out 2.35:1 movies, I have black velvet above and below my screen to soak them up. I cant go back to 16:9 screen because I hate the black bars but 90% of the content I watch is in 2.35:1 in my HT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good to know - thanks. If I go this way, I was even thinking of having some velvet curtains that could be drawn to mask any side bars. Easy enough to do.


----------



## scar8686

Hi, yesterday I installed this PJ (TW9400 in Europe). Can you help me with the correct settings with HDR before calibration? Default HDR setting is 8 but for HDR contents in too dark for me. 3 or 4 is ok?
What are the correct settings for Xbox Series X? Yesterday there was a problem with all the colors that blow up with the console.


----------



## Luminated67

Kieran said:


> Just checked. I don't think 11% of the MSRP of the projector is "cheap AF". How much are the Sony & JVC bulbs in comparison? Yikes.
> How long do they last?


Out of curiosity how many hours per year do you expect to use your projector, will it solely be used for the odd movie night or will you intend to use it for general TV watching too.

The reason I ask if that though a Laser projector has 20000hr life the light will dim by half around the half life, this is OK if you only use it for 1000hr per year or less but if you watch it a lot then within a few years you will need to replace the whole machine and once it dims you can’t get that brightness back like you can by changing a bulb.


----------



## platinum00

Even at the half life of most lasers, there still brighter than a new bulb.


----------



## sddawson

scar8686 said:


> Hi, yesterday I installed this PJ (TW9400 in Europe). Can you help me with the correct settings with HDR before calibration? Default HDR setting is 8 but for HDR contents in too dark for me. 3 or 4 is ok?
> What are the correct settings for Xbox Series X? Yesterday there was a problem with all the colors that blow up with the console.


The HDR slider is there for you to adjust to taste. Where you need it to be depends on many factors, mainly your screen size, mounting distance, screen type, fan speed, whether you use a mode that uses the colour filter and bulb age. In other words, how bright your projector is in your exact environment. If you need to lower the slider to get a picture you're happy with, then do it. You will just be missing details in the highlights of the picture the lower the slider goes, and the picture will become more SDR-like.

I can't help with the Xbox question I'm afraid.


----------



## AVTimme

Kieran said:


> I don't even have my 5050UB yet, but with all this talk about bulbs, I kinda wish I'd more seriously considered a laser projector.
> How often do people replace to keep good image quality? We will probably watch shows/movies an average of 10 hours / week to start (accounting for the "it's new" factor).
> Where do you buy bulbs? Direct from Epson? How much do they cost? I saw some people use knock-offs, how much cheaper are those?


I have about 400 hours on my Epson 6050 and haven't noticed any degradation at all yet. I think it will still throw a great picture midlife. Maybe it gets worse after 1500 hours? I don't know 

But the bulbs really are cheap compared to JVC/sony


----------



## twistone

Werewolf79 said:


> I have measured, I am on almost 400 hours now and I have lost approx just 1ft lambert of brightness


What size is your screen and what ftL are you at now after the 1ftL drop? We can determine the drop in lumens with that info (if you haven't already)!

Obviously won't be the same for everyone but still useful information.


----------



## aoaaron

scar8686 said:


> Hi, yesterday I installed this PJ (TW9400 in Europe). Can you help me with the correct settings with HDR before calibration? Default HDR setting is 8 but for HDR contents in too dark for me. 3 or 4 is ok?
> What are the correct settings for Xbox Series X? Yesterday there was a problem with all the colors that blow up with the console.



HDR & Subsequent calibration is sadly a big challenge on Epson PJs due to lack of dynamic tone mapping.
You are probably better off, if you have the SDR version of discs, getting those if you want a 100% accurate image.

For video games, I suggest you don't engage the HDR but use SDE on the Epson if you value accuracy because the HDR tone mapping in video games is simply put, incorrect on a PJ without DTM. This is because video games are mastered with extremely high nit usages which, if you want to cater for them properly, will ruin the picture from either a dark or bright perspective. The only solution to this is DTM or for every videogame to follow HGIG standards AND the display (or in this case projector) have HGIG which no Epson PJ has.

As someone else said, the HDR slider is really just 'to taste'. If you want an accurate-ish image for videogames you will need to invest in a dynamic tone mapping solution which is very expensive (MADVR ENVY/ Lumagen). If you want it for films, you can invest in a HTPC and run films via MADVR and your player of choice. This effects will indeed be absolutely fantastic and mindblowing for HDR but with the caveat it can only be used with local content.

The advantage which is tangible on the Epson for engaging HDR is the increased colour gamut in digital cinema mode but this comes at the expense of brightness, which is kind of counterproductive for HDR.




But basically, the HDR slider is just to taste as someone else said.
For games, the HDR might give more 'bright and pop' but at the expense of blacks being handled pretty badly, as put simply it cannot do both at the same time due to the nature of the slider (as you can probably see when you move it up or down). 
The SDR image will be 100% accurate to creators intent and probably a far superior, complete visual experience all-in-all given you get the added brightness without the filter too.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Luminated67 said:


> Out of curiosity how many hours per year do you expect to use your projector, will it solely be used for the odd movie night or will you intend to use it for general TV watching too.
> 
> The reason I ask if that though a Laser projector has 20000hr life the light will dim by half around the half life, this is OK if you only use it for 1000hr per year or less but if you watch it a lot then within a few years you will need to replace the whole machine and once it dims you can’t get that brightness back like you can by changing a bulb.


I only have my projector, and use it anywhere from 2 to 16 hours a day. And i was also looking at laser projector as i was tired of the expensive lamp changes for my previous sony, but optoma refused to tell me if the laser light source could be changed if/when i got to end of life,or what it would cost. It also turned out optoma is lying about the 3d capabilities in the marketing of the uhz65, it does not play 3d,which they confirmed in an email. Wether or not it ever will i don't know. 
So i decided to buy the epson as the lamps are cheap, and the projector is very well designed so i can access both filter and lamp while projector is ceiling mounted. My sony i had to take down every time i needed to clean filter or change lamp, it was a pita.


----------



## Werewolf79

aoaaron said:


> HDR & Subsequent calibration is sadly a big challenge on Epson PJs due to lack of dynamic tone mapping.
> You are probably better off, if you have the SDR version of discs, getting those if you want a 100% accurate image.
> 
> For video games, I suggest you don't engage the HDR but use SDE on the Epson if you value accuracy because the HDR tone mapping in video games is simply put, incorrect on a PJ without DTM. This is because video games are mastered with extremely high nit usages which, if you want to cater for them properly, will ruin the picture from either a dark or bright perspective. The only solution to this is DTM or for every videogame to follow HGIG standards AND the display (or in this case projector) have HGIG which no Epson PJ has.
> 
> As someone else said, the HDR slider is really just 'to taste'. If you want an accurate-ish image for videogames you will need to invest in a dynamic tone mapping solution which is very expensive (MADVR ENVY/ Lumagen). If you want it for films, you can invest in a HTPC and run films via MADVR and your player of choice. This effects will indeed be absolutely fantastic and mindblowing for HDR but with the caveat it can only be used with local content.
> 
> The advantage which is tangible on the Epson for engaging HDR is the increased colour gamut in digital cinema mode but this comes at the expense of brightness, which is kind of counterproductive for HDR.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But basically, the HDR slider is just to taste as someone else said.
> For games, the HDR might give more 'bright and pop' but at the expense of blacks being handled pretty badly, as put simply it cannot do both at the same time due to the nature of the slider (as you can probably see when you move it up or down).
> The SDR image will be 100% accurate to creators intent and probably a far superior, complete visual experience all-in-all given you get the added brightness without the filter too.


While what you say is true, if a person does not have an HTPC it could be wiser to invest in Chromapure and an i1 Display 3 meter and a Panasonic UHD player and calibrate the projector in SDR/BT2020 and benefit from the wide colour gamut, while dynamic tone mapping would be great, you can still get an excellent picture from UHD discs using the SDR/BT2020 mode.


----------



## aoaaron

Werewolf79 said:


> While what you say is true, if a person does not have an HTPC it could be wiser to invest in Chromapure and an i1 Display 3 meter and a Panasonic UHD player and calibrate the projector in SDR/BT2020 and benefit from the wide colour gamut, while dynamic tone mapping would be great, you can still get an excellent picture from UHD discs using the SDR/BT2020 mode.


I agree, thats probably the next best thing if you want the brightness from the PJ in HDR mode  You'll sadly lose out on all the dynamic tone mapping goodness which I found is vital in maintaining contrast in bright scenes but the advantage of the method you described above is its 
1. Easier
2. Cheaper
3. Simpler
4. Applies to everything from the Panasonic player. 

If someone does have HTPC or money, MADVR on PC/MADVR Envy/Lumagen IMO are VITAL projector purchases now with HDR for everyone (whether its a £2,500 Epson or a £10,000 Sony).


----------



## aoaaron

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I only have my projector, and use it anywhere from 2 to 16 hours a day. And i was also looking at laser projector as i was tired of the expensive lamp changes for my previous sony, but optoma refused to tell me if the laser light source could be changed if/when i got to end of life,or what it would cost. It also turned out optoma is lying about the 3d capabilities in the marketing of the uhz65, it does not play 3d,which they confirmed in an email. Wether or not it ever will i don't know.
> So i decided to buy the epson as the lamps are cheap, and the projector is very well designed so i can access both filter and lamp while projector is ceiling mounted. My sony i had to take down every time i needed to clean filter or change lamp, it was a pita.



Epson has cheap lamps, 5 year warranty on the initial lamp in the EU. Honestly just a no-brainer IMO. 

From an Epson PJ perspective, the main reason I'd want a laser is faster fade to black and a laster-stable image. The how lamps thing is IMO a non issue for Epson given how cheap the bulbs are.


----------



## TTFORUM

sddawson said:


> The HDR slider is there for you to adjust to taste. Where you need it to be depends on many factors, mainly your screen size, mounting distance, screen type, fan speed, whether you use a mode that uses the colour filter and bulb age. In other words, how bright your projector is in your exact environment. If you need to lower the slider to get a picture you're happy with, then do it. You will just be missing details in the highlights of the picture the lower the slider goes, and the picture will become more SDR-like.
> 
> I can't help with the Xbox question I'm afraid.





aoaaron said:


> HDR & Subsequent calibration is sadly a big challenge on Epson PJs due to lack of dynamic tone mapping.
> You are probably better off, if you have the SDR version of discs, getting those if you want a 100% accurate image.
> 
> For video games, I suggest you don't engage the HDR but use SDE on the Epson if you value accuracy because the HDR tone mapping in video games is simply put, incorrect on a PJ without DTM. This is because video games are mastered with extremely high nit usages which, if you want to cater for them properly, will ruin the picture from either a dark or bright perspective. The only solution to this is DTM or for every videogame to follow HGIG standards AND the display (or in this case projector) have HGIG which no Epson PJ has.
> 
> As someone else said, the HDR slider is really just 'to taste'. If you want an accurate-ish image for videogames you will need to invest in a dynamic tone mapping solution which is very expensive (MADVR ENVY/ Lumagen). If you want it for films, you can invest in a HTPC and run films via MADVR and your player of choice. This effects will indeed be absolutely fantastic and mindblowing for HDR but with the caveat it can only be used with local content.
> 
> The advantage which is tangible on the Epson for engaging HDR is the increased colour gamut in digital cinema mode but this comes at the expense of brightness, which is kind of counterproductive for HDR.
> 
> But basically, the HDR slider is just to taste as someone else said.
> For games, the HDR might give more 'bright and pop' but at the expense of blacks being handled pretty badly, as put simply it cannot do both at the same time due to the nature of the slider (as you can probably see when you move it up or down).
> The SDR image will be 100% accurate to creators intent and probably a far superior, complete visual experience all-in-all given you get the added brightness without the filter too.


I really could use some help in understanding what the HDR slider is supposed to do in relation to contrast and blacks. I'm a total noob at doing any kind of calibration. It seems that

HDR slider adjusts midtones and can just brighten the overall picture without destroying blacks totally
Brightness just destroys blacks
Contrast seems to mostly help the whites be brighter and can blow out the details in whites if taken too far. It can help bring up peak brightness in dark scenes. However, I am a little baffled at what turning it up is supposed to do vs turning it down is supposed to do since it somehow seemed opposite of what I'd expect.
(e.g. lasers and explosions in space scenes look great when this is turned up, but clouds in brighter scenes will appear to be blown out if you take it too far).

Is that kind of right?

I just destroyed my work day today because I was up until 2:00 AM last night playing with the HDR slider and the contrast sliders. I just moved from a Silver Ticket white screen to their High Contrast Grey because I had taken my room treatment as far as my wife will let me and the black levels were still not what I wanted. Spoiler alert: the black levels were very satisfyingly improved with the HC Grey, but the overall picture became dimmer and less satisfying.

So, I started playing with the above three sliders and came to find that the HDR slider and Contrast seem to be keys to the kingdom with this screen and, wow, I was able to get some pretty eye popping results. However, I have several MAJOR frustration points.

The "Save / Load" memory function on the Epson doesn't seem to include the HDR slider position. So, unless I missed something in my late night haze you have to load the memory and then go change the HDR slider independently
I found that different content sources (all HDR) and different content from those sources all seem to benefit from different adjustments which is hard to manage. I ended up with 4 different saved settings last night based on the content. I felt like with my white screen the picture was much more consistent across sources.
Basically, I added the new Chromecast with Google TV to my system which gave me 12 bit BT2020 4:2:0 both in menu and in the apps. I tried to optimize HDR videos on youtube, Disney+ (Marvel and Star Wars), and several different Netflix films. By optimize, I mean that I tried to find what I personally found to provide great color with high peak brightness with pleasing blacks while also avoiding that washed out grey you can get on the midtones.

I haven't gone back today or had a review with my wife to see if it passes her test (I can spend hours and hours obsessing and then she'll walk in and in 30 seconds make a quick judgment comment that sends me back to the drawing boar). That said, this is what I generally found:


Modifying the HDR slider or contrast seemed to really improve the actual video content, but would make the chromecast and netflix menus seem blown out
Youtube 4k HDR, Netflix, Disney Marvel, and Disney Star Wars all needed different tweaks
An average of a 4 on the HDR slider gave the best average results
I'll re-evaluate my results later and will post my simple, noob level adjustments, but please, anybody who has a dark grey screen let me know what worked for them (hint @Laserfan)!


----------



## scar8686

aoaaron said:


> For video games, I suggest you don't engage the HDR but use SDE on the Epson if you value accuracy because the HDR tone mapping in video games is simply put, incorrect on a PJ without DTM. This is because video games are mastered with extremely high nit usages which, if you want to cater for them properly, will ruin the picture from either a dark or bright perspective. The only solution to this is DTM or for every videogame to follow HGIG standards AND the display (or in this case projector) have HGIG which no Epson PJ has.


Ok thank you. What is "SDE"? How can I force 1080p SDR on the PJ?


----------



## aoaaron

scar8686 said:


> Ok thank you. What is "SDE"? How can I force 1080p SDR on the PJ?



SDR sorry mate. Just turn off HDR on the PS4/Ps5/


----------



## aoaaron

TTFORUM said:


> I really could use some help in understanding what the HDR slider is supposed to do in relation to contrast and blacks. I'm a total noob at doing any kind of calibration. It seems that
> 
> HDR slider adjusts midtones and can just brighten the overall picture without destroying blacks totally
> Brightness just destroys blacks
> Contrast seems to mostly help the whites be brighter and can blow out the details in whites if taken too far. It can help bring up peak brightness in dark scenes. However, I am a little baffled at what turning it up is supposed to do vs turning it down is supposed to do since it somehow seemed opposite of what I'd expect.
> (e.g. lasers and explosions in space scenes look great when this is turned up, but clouds in brighter scenes will appear to be blown out if you take it too far).
> 
> Is that kind of right?
> 
> I just destroyed my work day today because I was up until 2:00 AM last night playing with the HDR slider and the contrast sliders. I just moved from a Silver Ticket white screen to their High Contrast Grey because I had taken my room treatment as far as my wife will let me and the black levels were still not what I wanted. Spoiler alert: the black levels were very satisfyingly improved with the HC Grey, but the overall picture became dimmer and less satisfying.
> 
> So, I started playing with the above three sliders and came to find that the HDR slider and Contrast seem to be keys to the kingdom with this screen and, wow, I was able to get some pretty eye popping results. However, I have several MAJOR frustration points.
> 
> The "Save / Load" memory function on the Epson doesn't seem to include the HDR slider position. So, unless I missed something in my late night haze you have to load the memory and then go change the HDR slider independently
> I found that different content sources (all HDR) and different content from those sources all seem to benefit from different adjustments which is hard to manage. I ended up with 4 different saved settings last night based on the content. I felt like with my white screen the picture was much more consistent across sources.
> Basically, I added the new Chromecast with Google TV to my system which gave me 12 bit BT2020 4:2:0 both in menu and in the apps. I tried to optimize HDR videos on youtube, Disney+ (Marvel and Star Wars), and several different Netflix films. By optimize, I mean that I tried to find what I personally found to provide great color with high peak brightness with pleasing blacks while also avoiding that washed out grey you can get on the midtones.
> 
> I haven't gone back today or had a review with my wife to see if it passes her test (I can spend hours and hours obsessing and then she'll walk in and in 30 seconds make a quick judgment comment that sends me back to the drawing boar). That said, this is what I generally found:
> 
> 
> Modifying the HDR slider or contrast seemed to really improve the actual video content, but would make the chromecast and netflix menus seem blown out
> Youtube 4k HDR, Netflix, Disney Marvel, and Disney Star Wars all needed different tweaks
> An average of a 4 on the HDR slider gave the best average results
> I'll re-evaluate my results later and will post my simple, noob level adjustments, but please, anybody who has a dark grey screen let me know what worked for them (hint @Laserfan)!



HDR slider just alters the HDR curve. 

The issue is that HDR content is not all created equally. It all is a bit of a mess and the metadata streamed across is variable. The HDR slider was a solution to this and is also used in other devices like Panasonic player. Its aim is to allow use to 'calibrate' the image based on the content they are watching. 


Other manufacturers (LG, Sony, Panasonic on their TVs, JVC) decided to use dynamic tone mapping. That is a tone mapping algorithm which understands the limitation of its display and maps the content maximising contrast, shadow detail and specular highlights on a frame by frame basis rather than a static curve applied to the entire film.

Now projectors have specific limitations anyway which means we need special treatment. A Samsung FALD TV with high nit ouptut 1500+ for most content that isn't very poorly mastered can probably do most stuff okay (some video games for reference use 20,000 nits... so even that display can't do everything without DTM). PJs simply can't... so we need either DTM.. or a slider. The slider just tries to map and resolve detail as best it can. However the nature of projection is the brighter the image, the lighter the blacks as per the native contrast of the panel. 

This is where DTM on a scene by scene basis can really manage to keep the blacks black with shadow detail preserved in difficult scenes and all of a sudden jack up the brightness for a bright HDR scene.. because its scene by scene, frame by frame.. whilst the HDR curves on Epson is static. 




Basically, HDR slider on epson 6050/9400 is an experiment. It is an ongoing experiment where you calibrate based on taste of what you 'feel' pops. You will be satisified with one scene, or ten scenes, and then dissapointed in one. That is the limitation of static processing of HDR content.

DTM (which JVC, MADVR, OLEDs, LCDs, Lumagen, MADVR Envy use) doesn't do this because it analyses the content and gets the best out of every frame based on the metadata provided to the display and the output from the projector. With DTM, it is set and forget. HDR is flawless. There is no taste, there is no guess work. It just looks fantastic. You can tweak it of course based on how high lumen output your display can reach but thats about all you need to do. You will NOT need to adjust it on a per content basis whilst my time with Epson 6050, I was adjusting it for every single film if I wanted the best looking image.. and would still be dissapointed half way through where I felt a darker scene should be darker and more contrasty.


----------



## scar8686

aoaaron said:


> SDR sorry mate. Just turn off HDR on the PS4/Ps5/


Ok thank you another question please. Why Youtube video 4K HDR demo are stunning? Are they in SDR mode?


----------



## aoaaron

scar8686 said:


> Ok thank you another question please. Why Youtube video 4K HDR demo are stunning? Are they in SDR mode?


You can do the comparison yourself re: the HDR demo.Just find a similar video in SDR and do a comparison. You will find the SDR version might have slightly less extreme pop but I guarantee as it shifts from a darker scene to a lighter scene and back, the SDR version simply put looks 'right'. The issue with HDR isn't that it can't look good. Of course it can, but does it look good for the entire film? That is a completely different question. For something to look good and really impress in the bright scenes, following the same boring curve, it'll have to look bad in the dark scenes at times. An SDR version of the film is mastered to a referenced standard. You know if you calibrate your screen, what you see is what you get. Without DTM, we are playing a very strong guessing game on projectors. It might be pleasing to your eyes but it doesn't mean its the correct image. For example on my PJ, I can make a bright scene look amazing.

Now for films, I think the curves Epson have offered will suffice but for video games.. simply put.. IMO.. no chance. It might look 'good' but its not going to look as accurate or faithful to the material as the SDR version. The HDR version will simply be a very random guessing game.

you can all do this experience yourselves. Get HDR version of a film and play back 10 films of it and compared it to the HDR version on an LG OLED. they should be similar. Do the same on a game. My findings were they were DARASTICALLY different for HDR on the PJ vs HDR on the TV but the SDR on the PJ was picture and scene perfect.






But , at the end of the day.. if you like the look of it, sit back and enjoy. I am probably in the 5% of weird people that obsess over this stuff more than the average person and want the best PQ possible. Then there is probably 4% above me who do measurements and calibrate their displays everyday and are even more into this stuff than me. 

I think the HDR slider on the Epson is fun.. but I think the SDR version (due to the simple logic I detailed here) for gaming is superior and more accurate whilst in HDR using the slider, we are just guessing. 

If Epson had got DTM onto this projector, it would be absolutely insane. I can tell you now that with the extra lumens this projector has, its HDR impact with PROPER dynamic tone mapping on the medium lamp mode in natural (without the colour filter so we do lose some colour spectrum) is some of the best home cinema experience I've ever had (I prefer it to my LG OLED no kidding).


----------



## DJK149

I just purchased a 5050ub Refurb from Epson last night. It doesn't "appear" to come w/ any 2yr extended warranty. I'm calling shortly to verify. To all those w/ some decent experience w/ this project, should such a extended warranty be purchased? Or is all the hardware reliable enough to assume no serious issues for a year or two?


----------



## TTFORUM

aoaaron said:


> HDR slider just alters the HDR curve.
> 
> The issue is that HDR content is not all created equally. It all is a bit of a mess and the metadata streamed across is variable. The HDR slider was a solution to this and is also used in other devices like Panasonic player. Its aim is to allow use to 'calibrate' the image based on the content they are watching.
> 
> 
> Other manufacturers (LG, Sony, Panasonic on their TVs, JVC) decided to use dynamic tone mapping. That is a tone mapping algorithm which understands the limitation of its display and maps the content maximising contrast, shadow detail and specular highlights on a frame by frame basis rather than a static curve applied to the entire film.
> 
> Now projectors have specific limitations anyway which means we need special treatment. A Samsung FALD TV with high nit ouptut 1500+ for most content that isn't very poorly mastered can probably do most stuff okay (some video games for reference use 20,000 nits... so even that display can't do everything without DTM). PJs simply can't... so we need either DTM.. or a slider. The slider just tries to map and resolve detail as best it can. However the nature of projection is the brighter the image, the lighter the blacks as per the native contrast of the panel.
> 
> This is where DTM on a scene by scene basis can really manage to keep the blacks black with shadow detail preserved in difficult scenes and all of a sudden jack up the brightness for a bright HDR scene.. because its scene by scene, frame by frame.. whilst the HDR curves on Epson is static.
> 
> Basically, HDR slider on epson 6050/9400 is an experiment. It is an ongoing experiment where you calibrate based on taste of what you 'feel' pops. You will be satisified with one scene, or ten scenes, and then dissapointed in one. That is the limitation of static processing of HDR content.
> 
> DTM (which JVC, MADVR, OLEDs, LCDs, Lumagen, MADVR Envy use) doesn't do this because it analyses the content and gets the best out of every frame based on the metadata provided to the display and the output from the projector. With DTM, it is set and forget. HDR is flawless. There is no taste, there is no guess work. It just looks fantastic. You can tweak it of course based on how high lumen output your display can reach but thats about all you need to do. You will NOT need to adjust it on a per content basis whilst my time with Epson 6050, I was adjusting it for every single film if I wanted the best looking image.. and would still be dissapointed half way through where I felt a darker scene should be darker and more contrasty.





aoaaron said:


> But , at the end of the day.. if you like the look of it, sit back and enjoy. I am probably in the 5% of weird people that obsess over this stuff more than the average person and want the best PQ possible. Then there is probably 4% above me who do measurements and calibrate their displays everyday and are even more into this stuff than me.
> 
> I think the HDR slider on the Epson is fun.. but I think the SDR version (due to the simple logic I detailed here) for gaming is superior and more accurate whilst in HDR using the slider, we are just guessing.
> 
> If Epson had got DTM onto this projector, it would be absolutely insane. I can tell you now that with the extra lumens this projector has, its HDR impact with PROPER dynamic tone mapping on the medium lamp mode in natural (without the colour filter so we do lose some colour spectrum) is some of the best home cinema experience I've ever had (I prefer it to my LG OLED no kidding).


Thank you so much! This was such a great explanation and now I know that I'm not crazy with what I'm seeing and I probably just need to find a couple different optimization settings and just accept it for what it is.

That said, is there a DTM module you could put between the input and the PJ to handle this? Also, what would be the first level up in JVC projectors that would do this which would be better than these Epsons which isn't DLP (I get the Rainbow Effect on some DLPs)? I'm not likely to make the price jump, but I'm still in my return window for the Epson.  Right now, I'm thinking I'll go with this for now and maybe in a few years the Epson Laser Projectors will be affordable and would have this DTM ability?




aoaaron said:


> But , at the end of the day.. if you like the look of it, sit back and enjoy. I am probably in the 5% of weird people that obsess over this stuff more than the average person and want the best PQ possible. Then there is probably 4% above me who do measurements and calibrate their displays everyday and are even more into this stuff than me.


Haha, I'm in your 5% category. My wife thinks I'm really annoying with all of my over analysis.


----------



## aoaaron

TTFORUM said:


> Thank you so much! This was such a great explanation and now I know that I'm not crazy with what I'm seeing and I probably just need to find a couple different optimization settings and just accept it for what it is.
> 
> That said, is there a DTM module you could put between the input and the PJ to handle this? Also, what would be the first level up in JVC projectors that would do this which would be better than these Epsons which isn't DLP (I get the Rainbow Effect on some DLPs)? I'm not likely to make the price jump, but I'm still in my return window for the Epson.  Right now, I'm thinking I'll go with this for now and maybe in a few years the Epson Laser Projectors will be affordable and would have this DTM ability?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, I'm in your 5% category. My wife thinks I'm really annoying with all of my over analysis.



Great question, and yes there is.

Its called a MADVR Envy or its a called a Lumagen Radiance Pro. They're both pretty price and cost well above double what the Epson costs. The DTM on the JVC (although inferior to MADVR & Lumagen) is one of the reasons why the JVC is so far ahead of the Epson on PQ.

I near guarantee a 6050/6040 with DTM via MADVR will really wow and impress 95% of the population for HDR and dare I say better the JVC in brighter scenes but lose out in dark scenes due to the inherent crazy black levels JVC has.

DTM will come in the next Epson refresh. Its criminal for them not to include it as every other modern display has it now form OLEDs to LCDs to JVC projectors.. its just a normal part of HDr picture processing now.


----------



## twistone

DJK149 said:


> It doesn't "appear" to come w/ any 2yr extended warranty.


If you bought it from the Epson website (clearance center) then it comes with the 2-year warranty. When I bought mine last month I noticed that the listing only said Epson Certified Refurbished instead of clearly stating 2-year warranty.

However, the Epson Clearance Center homepage clearly says Epson Certified Refurbished includes full warranty


----------



## aoaaron

Hi, my Epson has an issue. I'm watching a film then all of a sudden it just goes black with a flash of purple.. then slowly it comes back on. Does that look like a lamp failure or some other issue?


----------



## twistone

aoaaron said:


> I near guarantee a 6050/6040 with DTM via MADVR will really wow and impress 95% of the population for HDR


I'm curious if you have any experience with the Panasonic Ub820/Ub420 and if you can compare their handling of DTM to MADVR? I'm sure the computer and dedicated software will win that fight but I'm curious how the Panasonic players compare.


----------



## aoaaron

twistone said:


> I'm curious if you have any experience with the Panasonic Ub820/Ub420 and if you can compare their handling of DTM to MADVR? I'm sure the computer and dedicated software will win that fight but I'm curious how the Panasonic players compare.



Panasonic players don't do DTM mate.. its not really a comparison.


----------



## DJK149

twistone said:


> If you bought it from the Epson website (clearance center) then it comes with the 2-year warranty.
> 
> When I bought mine last month I noticed that the listing only said Epson Certified Refurbished instead of clearly stating 2-year warranty.
> 
> However, the Epson Clearance Center homepage clearly says Epson Certified Refurbished includes full warranty


That's great news.. I did buy it from the Epson Certified Refurb area.. I made that assumption because the other refurb Epson projectors all stated "2-yr warranty" right in headline. The 5050UB didn't show that for some reason. Thanks!


----------



## gunlife

twistone said:


> I'm curious if you have any experience with the Panasonic Ub820/Ub420 and if you can compare their handling of DTM to MADVR? I'm sure the computer and dedicated software will win that fight but I'm curious how the Panasonic players compare.


The HDR to SDR on the Pannys is a very solid picture for playing UHD disks. It doesn't work on the streaming services in my experience. Madvr is better but it will be more a more subtle difference than many on here would want to admit. I personally prefer the Pannys HDR to SDR over the built in tone mapping of the 5050. The panny does much better in low light scenes. You get a much better black floor but still great shadow detail. The Epson will get you a little more highlight brightness. 

I made this horrible geek video to try to show the differences between the two if you want to take the time to watch its. Both the Epson and the Panasonics give a very watchable image. Is a system with true DTM better?? YES. Should Epson have a basic DTM built in at this time in the HDR game?? F Yes.


----------



## Kieran

Regarding the Panasonic ub820/420 uhd br players... I understand their tone mapping is not dynamic, but it has garnered some very good reviews. What I'm wondering is how it compares to the built-in static (er non-dynamic) tone mapping of the 5050/6050 (or the slider if that's what it is)?

Also, I've heard more than one reference to the Panasonic's HDR->SDR conversion. Is this another way to describe it's tone mapping, or is hdr-sdr conversion something else? Why would one want to convert a 4kHDR disc to SDR for a 5050/6050 projector?


----------



## Zedekias

aoaaron said:


> Hi, my Epson has an issue. I'm watching a film then all of a sudden it just goes black with a flash of purple.. then slowly it comes back on. Does that look like a lamp failure or some other issue?


I'm curious about this as well. I didn't have the exact problem.

But I turned on my projector first and then my receiver/streamer. And then when everything was on, everything had a purple/pink hue to it. I've since learned that I'm supposed to turn on the source first and then the projector so I don't know if that had anything to do with it.

But my lamp only has like 8 hours on it. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

gunlife said:


> The HDR to SDR on the Pannys is a very solid picture for playing UHD disks. It doesn't work on the streaming services in my experience. Madvr is better but it will be more a more subtle difference than many on here would want to admit. I personally prefer the Pannys HDR to SDR over the built in tone mapping of the 5050. The panny does much better in low light scenes. You get a much better black floor but still great shadow detail. The Epson will get you a little more highlight brightness.
> 
> I made this horrible geek video to try to show the differences between the two if you want to take the time to watch its. Both the Epson and the Panasonics give a very watchable image. Is a system with true DTM better?? YES. Should Epson have a basic DTM built in at this time in the HDR game?? F Yes.


Just watched your video, thanks! The take-away point to me was where you said if one doesn't have a velvet black ceiling, they're going to like the epson tone mapping better. Interesting. I'll never have a black-walled room; it's our family/media room so it's always going to have light colored walls. I guess I'll pass on the panasonic, even though it's pretty inexpensive. I'm hoping that the Xbox Series X will get a firmware update soon that will make it a worthy spinner for us; would rather have just one box for games, streaming, and discs if possible. 

Speaking of streaming... what streaming boxes/devices have the best 4kHDR solution for these Epson projectors? If the Xbox plan doesn't work out I was planning on an Nvidia Shield.


----------



## gunlife

Kieran said:


> Just watched your video, thanks! The take-away point to me was where you said if one doesn't have a velvet black ceiling, they're going to like the epson tone mapping better. Interesting. I'll never have a black-walled room; it's our family/media room so it's always going to have light colored walls. I guess I'll pass on the panasonic, even though it's pretty inexpensive. I'm hoping that the Xbox Series X will get a firmware update soon that will make it a worthy spinner for us; would rather have just one box for games, streaming, and discs if possible.
> 
> Speaking of streaming... what streaming boxes/devices have the best 4kHDR solution for these Epson projectors? If the Xbox plan doesn't work out I was planning on an Nvidia Shield.


I use a shield myself. But an xbox will work well. Xbox is also a fine UHD player. Just use the built in Epson tone mapping slider and you can get a solid picture relatively easily. 

I think its important that we keep this all in perspective. Either way the 5050 will give you a good image. Its mainly subtle differences us geeks on forums complain about.


----------



## twistone

aoaaron said:


> Panasonic players don't do DTM mate


Thanks for the info. I thought that's what people were referring to when they gushed over the Panasonic players' tone mapping and HDR optimizer functions. I guess I'll have to research more about how they actually work.


----------



## aoaaron

gunlife said:


> The HDR to SDR on the Pannys is a very solid picture for playing UHD disks. It doesn't work on the streaming services in my experience. Madvr is better but it will be more a more subtle difference than many on here would want to admit. I personally prefer the Pannys HDR to SDR over the built in tone mapping of the 5050. The panny does much better in low light scenes. You get a much better black floor but still great shadow detail. The Epson will get you a little more highlight brightness.
> 
> I made this horrible geek video to try to show the differences between the two if you want to take the time to watch its. Both the Epson and the Panasonics give a very watchable image. Is a system with true DTM better?? YES. Should Epson have a basic DTM built in at this time in the HDR game?? F Yes.



I think MADVR is a gigantic difference personally. I see so many HDR scenes before on my old 6050 and the bright scene in HDR was... well just bright. No contrast, no colour, no substance, just massively bright. Combine that with the already not amazing black performance and I was left with what felt like a cheap LCD low contrast TV. With DTM... man totally different PJ. 

Its ashame as people talk about 10gbps, 18gbps, non native 4K, no e-shift blahblah... but the telling feature for enthusiasts and future proofing is DTM. 

Without DTM, I honestly cannot take gaming in HDR on an Epson seriously. The colours are just all over the place when compare to a reference-level display. DTM Would fix that. 


Then again, we can't completely blame Epson. They just did the best they could at the time and given they release the 6050/5050 at such a low price point, maybe they didn't budget for the processing power required for DTM. They will have to for the 6060.


----------



## sddawson

Terence said:


> Correct! I blank the top and bottom so when the IMAX scenes pop up I don’t see it happening. I don’t blank out 2.35:1 movies, I have black velvet above and below my screen to soak them up. I cant go back to 16:9 screen because I hate the black bars but 90% of the content I watch is in 2.35:1 in my HT.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


One more related question if you don’t mind. How do you handle things like disc menus, or the menus on a streaming player (like an Apple TV)? Do you find you always need to display these 16:9 to see all the information and then switch to scope ratio for content, or can you leave it in scope and see most of what you need to?


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## twistone

gunlife said:


> I made this horrible geek video to try to show the differences between the two


Thank you for taking the time to do that! I haven't committed to a player for my projector yet even though I bought the Sony x700 already (it works well for streaming, so far, and can go in the living room). I'm still considering one of the Panasonic units even if it just gets me better performance in dark scenes like you demonstrated. More research to do...


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## platinum00

Keep In mind on the panny players if your using local content you can't get Atmos/DTS.X/etc.. for some stupid reason they give you limited audio for local files.

So if you have a bunch of local content, MKV or other, MadVR is really the good option if you enjoy your audio.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Werewolf79

aoaaron said:


> I think MADVR is a gigantic difference personally. I see so many HDR scenes before on my old 6050 and the bright scene in HDR was... well just bright. No contrast, no colour, no substance, just massively bright. Combine that with the already not amazing black performance and I was left with what felt like a cheap LCD low contrast TV. With DTM... man totally different PJ.
> 
> Its ashame as people talk about 10gbps, 18gbps, non native 4K, no e-shift blahblah... but the telling feature for enthusiasts and future proofing is DTM.
> 
> Without DTM, I honestly cannot take gaming in HDR on an Epson seriously. The colours are just all over the place when compare to a reference-level display. DTM Would fix that.
> 
> 
> Then again, we can't completely blame Epson. They just did the best they could at the time and given they release the 6050/5050 at such a low price point, maybe they didn't budget for the processing power required for DTM. They will have to for the 6060.


That’s not what I am seeing, but then I do SDR/BT2020, it’s bright, it has contrast, wide colour, vibrant image, to me the UHD versions are better than the standard blu Ray discs due to the wide colour.

As for what the Panasonic does, projectors cannot do HDR, they just do not have the brightness and nor can they switch off individual pixels like an OLED or plasma tv, SDR/BT2020 just gives you a better image, the Panasonic also sends 500 nits when you switch that on and then the Optimiser on the 820 works it’s magic, I have four calibrated settings, at -7 on the slider, -3, +2 and +6, the reason for this is discs are not all the same, and just adjusting the slider does ruin your grey scale balance and thus colour fidelity, four settings stored and calibrated really helps I think.

I think this projectors gamma is off for the first 150 to 180 hours, I have it at -2 and I just could not get good gamma at all, then it kicked in, now at 5ire it’s 2.0 gamma, at 10 ire it’s 2.16 and 20ire 2.2 and moves up to 2.4gamma, to me that’s perfect, it means shadow detail is retained at the lower levels, a constant 2.4 to me is an issue for shadow detail, just my opinion.

Anyways I am very pleased with the performance, its a very punchy image, better blacks would be nice, I always want more blacks and more contrast but it is a very good image.

I also love the lens memories, I move mine for 2.40:1 content and 2.01:1 content, any wider content I just move it to the top of the screen and mask the bottom with a black Devore velvet which is also on my ceiling, front wall and side walls, also a black carpet, its a complete blackout and it helps a lot.

Yes I think DTM would be nice but what happens when the disc has no metadata, the Disney discs, the Fox titles, and then there is the discs which have incorrect metadata.


----------



## Musty Hustla

Ignorance is bliss. Today I went to projector central to read about my 5050 and noted that at my throw distance I’m at 54fL. It seems to be at least twice what it is recommended for a dark room.


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## Werewolf79

Musty Hustla said:


> Ignorance is bliss. Today I went to projector central to read about my 5050 and noted that at my throw distance I’m at 54fL. It seems to be at least twice what it is recommended for a dark room.


Yes but remember you can use Eco mode, you can dial it down using the contrast control and the manual iris too, many variables on the brightness and the lamp aging will also reduce it, also an NDx2 filter would reduce brightness by over half and give you better black levels.


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## gunlife

aoaaron said:


> I think MADVR is a gigantic difference personally. I see so many HDR scenes before on my old 6050 and the bright scene in HDR was... well just bright. No contrast, no colour, no substance, just massively bright. Combine that with the already not amazing black performance and I was left with what felt like a cheap LCD low contrast TV. With DTM... man totally different PJ.
> 
> Its ashame as people talk about 10gbps, 18gbps, non native 4K, no e-shift blahblah... but the telling feature for enthusiasts and future proofing is DTM.
> 
> Without DTM, I honestly cannot take gaming in HDR on an Epson seriously. The colours are just all over the place when compare to a reference-level display. DTM Would fix that.
> 
> 
> Then again, we can't completely blame Epson. They just did the best they could at the time and given they release the 6050/5050 at such a low price point, maybe they didn't budget for the processing power required for DTM. They will have to for the 6060.


I can't argue with much you said. When was the last time you saw a 6050? Only reason I ask is they did release a firmware update about 6 months ago that changed the static curves they used and it improved the built in HDR performance. Also I do agree with you on the not amazing black levels while in HDR mode on the 5050. This is the main reason I prefer the Panasonic HDR-SDR tone mapping. Epson seems to raise the bottom gamma significantly when its goes into HDR mode. But you seem to be saying "No color, no substance, just massively bright," that sounds like you were majorly clipping highlights and that just shouldn't be the case. The static with the slider does a pretty good job of not fully clipping, and still holding detail in high nit areas. 

Only thing I will disagree with you on is the processing power issue. To do basic DTM it doesn't take much processing power. All you have to do is run a algorithm that reads the histogram levels and adjust gamma based on that. They may not be able to do an 18 point gamma change like JVC does, or obviously nothing like madvr or lumagin. But there is enough processing power under the 5050 hood to enable some kind of DTM. Period. Maybe they would have to turn off some other enhancement feature like JVC ( they turned off some pincushion fix). I just assume Epson is waiting to release their next minimal upgrade next year. 

Me *personally,* Madvr isn't worth the headache. 

Also I don't have the time to game much anymore, but the games I have played in HDR have been pretty impressive. I definitely think your telling the truth on the gaming issues but I have to assume its game dependent. I played Gears 5 and one of the newer Assassins' Creed games and HDR looked solid and consistent. 

Also my wife did green light a 77'' OLED for the living room. So maybe I will head over to the Dark Side soon!


----------



## twistone

gunlife said:


> The HDR to SDR on the Pannys is a very solid picture for playing UHD disks.


Quick (nerdy) off-topic after watching your video again...I also have a Panasonic G9 (since August), love that thing!


----------



## aoaaron

gunlife said:


> I can't argue with much you said. When was the last time you saw a 6050? Only reason I ask is they did release a firmware update about 6 months ago that changed the static curves they used and it improved the built in HDR performance. Also I do agree with you on the not amazing black levels while in HDR mode on the 5050. This is the main reason I prefer the Panasonic HDR-SDR tone mapping. Epson seems to raise the bottom gamma significantly when its goes into HDR mode. But you seem to be saying "No color, no substance, just massively bright," that sounds like you were majorly clipping highlights and that just shouldn't be the case. The static with the slider does a pretty good job of not fully clipping, and still holding detail in high nit areas.
> 
> Only thing I will disagree with you on is the processing power issue. To do basic DTM it doesn't take much processing power. All you have to do is run a algorithm that reads the histogram levels and adjust gamma based on that. They may not be able to do an 18 point gamma change like JVC does, or obviously nothing like madvr or lumagin. But there is enough processing power under the 5050 hood to enable some kind of DTM. Period. Maybe they would have to turn off some other enhancement feature like JVC ( they turned off some pincushion fix). I just assume Epson is waiting to release their next minimal upgrade next year.
> 
> Me *personally,* Madvr isn't worth the headache.
> 
> Also I don't have the time to game much anymore, but the games I have played in HDR have been pretty impressive. I definitely think your telling the truth on the gaming issues but I have to assume its game dependent. I played Gears 5 and one of the newer Assassins' Creed games and HDR looked solid and consistent.
> 
> Also my wife did green light a 77'' OLED for the living room. So maybe I will head over to the Dark Side soon!


My 6050 time was during that update so I did play with it with the new curves. 


I just returned my 77'' OLED. Its mad when a £1000 6040 gives a better cinematic experience than a £5000 77'' OLED.


----------



## aoaaron

Werewolf79 said:


> That’s not what I am seeing, but then I do SDR/BT2020, it’s bright, it has contrast, wide colour, vibrant image, to me the UHD versions are better than the standard blu Ray discs due to the wide colour.
> 
> As for what the Panasonic does, projectors cannot do HDR, they just do not have the brightness and nor can they switch off individual pixels like an OLED or plasma tv, SDR/BT2020 just gives you a better image, the Panasonic also sends 500 nits when you switch that on and then the Optimiser on the 820 works it’s magic, I have four calibrated settings, at -7 on the slider, -3, +2 and +6, the reason for this is discs are not all the same, and just adjusting the slider does ruin your grey scale balance and thus colour fidelity, four settings stored and calibrated really helps I think.
> 
> I think this projectors gamma is off for the first 150 to 180 hours, I have it at -2 and I just could not get good gamma at all, then it kicked in, now at 5ire it’s 2.0 gamma, at 10 ire it’s 2.16 and 20ire 2.2 and moves up to 2.4gamma, to me that’s perfect, it means shadow detail is retained at the lower levels, a constant 2.4 to me is an issue for shadow detail, just my opinion.
> 
> Anyways I am very pleased with the performance, its a very punchy image, better blacks would be nice, I always want more blacks and more contrast but it is a very good image.
> 
> I also love the lens memories, I move mine for 2.40:1 content and 2.01:1 content, any wider content I just move it to the top of the screen and mask the bottom with a black Devore velvet which is also on my ceiling, front wall and side walls, also a black carpet, its a complete blackout and it helps a lot.
> 
> Yes I think DTM would be nice but what happens when the disc has no metadata, the Disney discs, the Fox titles, and then there is the discs which have incorrect metadata.


The wider colour gamut is great, I agree. However I'm not sure its worth the 40-50% light loss form the filter. DTM (visa MADVR) maps those colours more accurately to a colour space and makes it look nearly just as good but without the brightness loss. I've always found it weird on the 6050 to get the wider gamut you have to take away lumens.. and lumens/nits is what HDr depends on.

DTM is much better than no DTM. It is to do with the limitations of a projector and the fact that DTM makes up for it via understanding the peak luminance of your display and catering the performance towards that. For example, an Epson 6050 projecting a 150 inch image has completely different target peak nits than an Epson 6050 creating an image which is 90 inches. The nit difference is computed by the DTM and enhances the image.

But again, I digress. At the end of the day, you are in a sweet spot where you are happy with what you have. I was utterly dissapointed by the HDR slider and thought it was one of the most pathetic implementations of HDR ever. I constantly had to 'guess' at the start of a film where it should be and even then, some films were just so differently mastered it was terrible. I remember going from Avengers to Jojo Rabbit and oh god Jojo Rabbit was a mess.

I found the 'punch' or brightness you spoke about in HDR following Epson's custom curves was crap. The image lacked contrast and prioritised at times just being overblown.

I personally think DTM is an absolute no brainer because its not just about analysing the metadata of the disc, its about understanding and optimising the display's qualities. I'd rather have DTM than have no DTM and just follow an arbitrary set of HDR curves from Epson.

Out of interest, what displays have you compared your 6050 to? I had an LG OLED GX 77'' to do draw comparisons to and from, so I can tell you that the HDR curves on the Epson are a mess compared to a DTM display like the OLED. The gulf in class is huge. Its annoying cos all this is picture processing.. nothing else. And the epson has a massive lumen advantage over the JVC which HDR DOES benefit from.. but it goes un-utilised because epson didn't pack in a good algorithm to take advantage of the potential massive lumen output. 


I think if the 6050 has packed DTM, it would easily be able to stand the test of time for AGES. A lot of people will upgrade next year to 6060 or JVC and say how amazing the PQ is.. but I guarantee most of those gains will just be because of DTM.

Btw I am not hating on the PJ. I love the 6050 and 6040... its just sad there is unlocked potential with this absolute light canon of a PJ.


----------



## gunlife

aoaaron said:


> The wider colour gamut is great, I agree. However I'm not sure its worth the 40-50% light loss form the filter. DTM (visa MADVR) maps those colours more accurately to a colour space and makes it look nearly just as good but without the brightness loss. I've always found it weird on the 6050 to get the wider gamut you have to take away lumens.. and lumens/nits is what HDr depends on.
> 
> DTM is much better than no DTM. It is to do with the limitations of a projector and the fact that DTM makes up for it via understanding the peak luminance of your display and catering the performance towards that. For example, an Epson 6050 projecting a 150 inch image has completely different target peak nits than an Epson 6050 creating an image which is 90 inches. The nit difference is computed by the DTM and enhances the image.
> 
> But again, I digress. At the end of the day, you are in a sweet spot where you are happy with what you have. I was utterly dissapointed by the HDR slider and thought it was one of the most pathetic implementations of HDR ever. I constantly had to 'guess' at the start of a film where it should be and even then, some films were just so differently mastered it was terrible. I remember going from Avengers to Jojo Rabbit and oh god Jojo Rabbit was a mess.
> 
> I found the 'punch' or brightness you spoke about in HDR following Epson's custom curves was crap. The image lacked contrast and prioritised at times just being overblown.
> 
> I personally think DTM is an absolute no brainer because its not just about analysing the metadata of the disc, its about understanding and optimising the display's qualities. I'd rather have DTM than have no DTM and just follow an arbitrary set of HDR curves from Epson.
> 
> Out of interest, what displays have you compared your 6050 to? I had an LG OLED GX 77'' to do draw comparisons to and from, so I can tell you that the HDR curves on the Epson are a mess compared to a DTM display like the OLED. The gulf in class is huge. Its annoying cos all this is picture processing.. nothing else. And the epson has a massive lumen advantage over the JVC which HDR DOES benefit from.. but it goes un-utilised because epson didn't pack in a good algorithm to take advantage of the potential massive lumen output.
> 
> 
> I think if the 6050 has packed DTM, it would easily be able to stand the test of time for AGES. A lot of people will upgrade next year to 6060 or JVC and say how amazing the PQ is.. but I guarantee most of those gains will just be because of DTM.
> 
> Btw I am not hating on the PJ. I love the 6050 and 6040... its just sad there is unlocked potential with this absolute light canon of a PJ.


You seem to have the idea that I am not pro DTM. I said I think DTM should have been added to the 5050 via firmware. Basic DTM should be a standard for all current HDR devices IMO. Thats said I do think you can get a good image with the bare bones 5050. Not DTM consistant!

Also my brother and and I take turns hosting movie nights. He had a 65inch oled with close seating as his setup. So I do have some comparision.

But by all means enjoy your very affordable better than the price you paid setup with your 5040 and Madvr! You are definitely getting better tone mapping than me and for that your picture will be better than mine!


----------



## biglen

aoaaron said:


> SDR sorry mate. Just turn off HDR on the PS4/Ps5/


My PS4 looks amazing with HDR turned on. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## aoaaron

gunlife said:


> You seem to have the idea that I am not pro DTM. I said I think DTM should have been added to the 5050 via firmware. Basic DTM should be a standard for all current HDR devices IMO. Thats said I do think you can get a good image with the bare bones 5050. Not DTM consistant!
> 
> Also my brother and and I take turns hosting movie nights. He had a 65inch oled with close seating as his setup. So I do have some comparision.
> 
> But by all means enjoy your very affordable better than the price you paid setup with your 5040 and Madvr! You are definitely getting better tone mapping than me and for that your picture will be better than mine!



Not at all mate.. gathered from ur posts you are and its not a competition  . My room is untreated and I use an ALR so I'm sure anyone with with a black velvet room destroys my PJ performance regardless of if i had a pocket projector or a JVC NX9. I had both the 6050 and the CX 77'' in the same room so could easily compare. The tone mapping on the 6050 was sadly not great even with the curves updated on latest firmware especially for videogames. TLOU2 was TOTALLY off. The snow scene at the start looked evening/dusk on the 6050 and on the CX.. well it was the morning.    Films wasn't too bad.. but again the bright HDR moments were..just bright.

I'm just giving advice based on my findings of having owned a 6050, LG OLED 77'' GX and 6040.
The next display device on my hit list is a JVC NX7 (hopefully the mark ii version which they release next year) but I need a blacked out new HT room first to house it in. 

It doesn't matter who's picture is better than who's... I feel like an AVforum should be a friendly place where we share advice on how to get the most from our equipment and understand the technology better to gain the best experience possible... exploring and embracing superior technologies as they come out


----------



## aoaaron

biglen said:


> My PS4 looks amazing with HDR turned on.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



In all scenes? Dark and Light? I think anything can 'look amazing'... its really just up to taste. I can on my OLED put colour to 70, OLED light to 100, contrast to 100, gamma to 2.4, and a lot of people will say it initially looks amazing.  and we all know it doesn't



If you go to TLOU2, snow scene at the start, you should see a clear difference/difficulty for the 6050 to map the picture and colours properly. If you compare it to an OLED TV (or FALD TV with good mapping.. any nearish-reference monitor for HDR), you'll see its very off and has an almost afternoon/evening feeling.

Then if you push up the tone mapping (as we have to, in order to expose the relative brightness required), you will see later on in the level when you need to ride a horse somewhere and you take a view from a bunker, all the blacks and darks will now be fairly grey.

I remember this scene and game quite vividly because its at this point I decided the 6050UB is just not good enough for video games in HDR. Then later it broke down  so had to return it. 

This isn't the fault of the PJ btw. its the fault of the game's developers implimentation of HDR being obscenely difficult to map which is why other displays have DTM or HGIG.



I feel like this talk of DTM.. and the HDR implimentation on videgames i ruffling too many feathers tho so I will stop. I note sometimes ppl get very defensive and subective of tech purchases and I hate to be the person who makes everything so technical. i am that person on the OLED forum who asks people to post the 5% grey slides of the TV they are happy with 

For people that are interested in taking the HDR to the next level, I suggest getting lumagen/madvr envy or a HTPC with MADVR. I don't want to cause any offence.


----------



## biglen

aoaaron said:


> In all scenes? Dark and Light? I think anything can 'look amazing'... its really just up to taste. I can on my OLED put colour to 70, OLED light to 100, contrast to 100, gamma to 2.4, and a lot of people will say it initially looks amazing.
> 
> 
> 
> If you go to TLOU2, snow scene at the start, you should see a clear difference/difficulty for the 6050 to map the picture and colours properly. If you compare it to an OLED TV (or FALD TV with good mapping.. any nearish-reference monitor for HDR), you'll see its very off and has an almost afternoon/evening feeling.
> 
> Then if you push up the tone mapping (as we have to, in order to expose the relative brightness required), you will see later on in the level when you need to ride a horse somewhere and you take a view from a bunker, all the blacks and darks will now be fairly grey.
> 
> This isn't the fault of the PJ. its the fault of the game's developers implimentation of HDR being obscenely difficult to map which is why other displays have DTM or HGIG.


I use the HDR settings that the professional calibrator set up. I don't pump the settings up at all. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## gunlife

aoaaron said:


> Not at all mate.. gathered from ur posts you are and its not a competition  . My room is untreated and I use an ALR so I'm sure anyone with with a black velvet room destroys my PJ performance regardless of if i had a pocket projector or a JVC NX9. I had both the 6050 and the CX 77'' in the same room so could easily compare. The tone mapping on the 6050 was sadly not great even with the curves updated on latest firmware especially for videogames. TLOU2 was TOTALLY off. The snow scene at the start looked evening/dusk on the 6050 and on the CX.. well it was the morning.    Films wasn't too bad.. but again the bright HDR moments were..just bright.
> 
> I'm just giving advice based on my findings of having owned a 6050, LG OLED 77'' GX and 6040.
> The next display device on my hit list is a JVC NX7 (hopefully the mark ii version which they release next year) but I need a blacked out new HT room first to house it in.
> 
> It doesn't matter who's picture is better than who's... I feel like an AVforum should be a friendly place where we share advice on how to get the most from our equipment and understand the technology better to gain the best experience possible... exploring and embracing superior technologies as they come out


I appreciate your advice and have enjoyed the conversation. You definitely seem genuine and having both displays like that is a great way to learn.

I may not be in competition with you, but I am with my brother! I have thought of adding Madvr to my theater many many times. I just don't have the patients for another computer. 

Yes I also want a JVC nx7, but at this point I hope they increase the contrast a bit in the next line. We really need maximum contrast to get HDR to pop.


----------



## aoaaron

biglen said:


> I use the HDR settings that the professional calibrator set up. I don't pump the settings up at all.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



Yes mate. So how HDR works, your professional calibrator can simply not calibrate for every single form of medium because each medium is using darastically different means of tonemapping. For example, in a movie everything is fairly uniform in how things are tone mapped but there are exceptions (e.g. wonder woman uses obscene high nit values). 

Video games are even worse, some of them tonemap up to 20,000 nits. Therefore a calibrator is kind of.. very stuck here. Nothing he can do, it all comes down to the display being able to dynamically tone map (or not) the information. 

Video games have had SOOOO much hard work with this they had invent something called HGIG. 


HGiG | HDR Gaming Interest Group



This is a group of video comapnies who have come together and basically said we will all follow the same rules because at the moment, HDR is a mess for gaming and no one can get a good experience. LG & Samsung & Sony & panasonic & JVC before HGIG decided seperately to use their own dynamic tone mapping. The reason is simple.. not all films and games are mastered in HDR equally and also not all panels and sets are equal. e.g. what a PJ cannot do an OLED can do.. what an OLED cannot do a LCD panel can do.. etc. so its about maximising contrast base on what ur display can do.. and the metadata + nits requested from the disc and doing this on a frame by frame basis. 

So... although I'm sure the HDR looks lovely on your display and you are happy with it, it is impossible for it to be to a reference standard as everything stands on any display lacking HGIG or DTM. Even with HGIG, its not going to be great unless the video game developer has opted into HGIG and follows the rules and protocols in place. 


I think whats important is drawing a disctinction between
"I am happy with the picture I am getting and it is pleasing to my eye"
and
"this is a reference quality image with the director intended"

They are two different things and from my perspective, I am saying HDR is a guessing game without HGIG/DTM for videogames especially and therefore the SDR version is superior BUT by all means, some of you may think the HDR version looks better. 

For example I know of my friends who prefer their TVs in dynamic mode or natural mode rather than the boring 'film maker mode' which they say is boring and not colourful and dim. not a problem, as long as we are all enjoying the tech


----------



## aoaaron

gunlife said:


> I appreciate your advice and have enjoyed the conversation. You definitely seem genuine and having both displays like that is a great way to learn.
> 
> I may not be in competition with you, but I am with my brother! I have thought of adding Madvr to my theater many many times. I just don't have the patients for another computer.
> 
> Yes I also want a JVC nx7, but at this point I hope they increase the contrast a bit in the next line. We really need maximum contrast to get HDR to pop.



Thanks mate! Yes just trying to talk about this genuinely because I had the 6050 and the HDR performance made me a bit dissapointed compared to the OLED. However since getting MADVR working with the 6040, I now realise I would have been happy with the 6050's HDR performance too if I'd just realised how it works. I am going to go out on a whim and say I prefer Epson projector + MADVR to LG OLED HDR. I could write an essay on why... but I'm sure this post is already too long but basically the overall exprience of HDR on the PJ feels more natural and nuanced and the only thng I miss from LG OLED is specular highlight brightness. 

I am hoping JVC NX7 increases the lumens, The 6050 and 6040 Lumen output is AMAZING and its something I will struggle to get used to. I run an ambient light rejecting screen so I need the lumens. For 3D I feel I need all the light I can get and the JVC numbers aren't great for lumen output in that regard but maybe the black floor of the JVC's makes everything look brighter? who knows.. never played with one.

You are right on the contrast too. For the JVC NX7 price, I want close to perfection as its a lot to part money with.. and very poor return policy, expensive lamps and crap customer service from JVC.

Epson have a perfect combination of good price, a versatile lumen output, awesome premium feature sets of placement flexibility and in the EU we have five years warranty on the PJ and lamp! And the replacement lamps are cheap and not a rip off!

I am moving house ATM so once I've moved I will give this 6040 to my sister and either the new Epson or the new JVC. My only worry is they might not release one til the end of the year.

The 77'' OLEDs are going back. I could write an essay on all the issues I had with them. But the bottom line is also 77'' is not as big as 100''... i know im a dumbass not realising that until 4 months.

*___*
MADVR is great but it is a faff. I think it'd take 1-2 days to setup from scratch. The problem is ripping the discs if you are starting from new as that is quite time consuming and confusing at times. Knowing which blueray drive to buy, which program to use etc.

My personal opinion is if your PJ is bringing you enjoyment.. just enjoy it 
Then when you grow tired or want more form it, THEN get MADVR.
Until then, its best to just enjoy what we have rather than waste time on the tech side of things.

I've been guilty the past 4-5 months of doing more tech-based stuff than I have enjoying films, TV shows and games and I know thats not right.


----------



## aoaaron

God I need to shut up. how much am i typing today. wtf is wrong with me. apologies guys.


----------



## Kieran

aoaaron said:


> The DTM on the JVC (although inferior to MADVR & Lumagen) is one of the reasons why the JVC is so far ahead of the Epson on PQ.


Which JVC projector are you talking about here?


----------



## aoaaron

Kieran said:


> Which JVC projector are you talking about here?


N5/N7/N9 RS1000//2000 etc.


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> I also love the lens memories, I move mine for 2.40:1 content and 2.01:1 content, any wider content I just move it to the top of the screen and mask the bottom with a black Devore velvet which is also on my ceiling, front wall and side walls, also a black carpet, its a complete blackout and it helps a lot.


What mechanism do you use to mask the bottom?


----------



## SteveS78

Just got one of these 5050UB projectors installed today and have two issues with it.

1. The installer spotted this and gave me the heads up. In the image, on certain screens (might be dependent on which colors are being shown?), there appears to be almost like a heat effect. Hard to explain, but its the same almost heat cloudy effect you get on top of a hot grill. It looks like that and it is in the one corner of the screen periodically. He thought it MAY have something to do with the bulb having to get set in there after some usage and it may go away. Anyone else experience this? Is it an issue? Should I contact Epson about that? Or is this normal for a brand new 5050?

2. The online throw calculator says this projector can be as close as 11'9" for a 120 screen. The installer put it up and had to put it slightly off center...off hand I am going to say no more than 3 or 4 inches. I would have thought there would be no issue given the lense shift. However, there is alittle bit of screen bleed onto the wall (it is a zero edge screen). He insisted that was as good as he could get it. I wasn't buying it as I have researched these units extensively and know the lense shift should do the trick. He had even used a little bit if the keystone to get it to fit closer (it was way worse when he reset the keystone). The image was off balance to the point where in one corner it looked like it fit perfect and then at the bottom it was on the wall. I don't think he had the unit 100% leveled. He claimed he did. But its like it is a little off. As long as it is at least 11'9" back (he put mine at 12 ft maybe even a little more) from the screen and the projector is level and straight at the wall and not pointing down, there should be no issues fitting the imagine perfectly on the screen, right? As of now, it is not acceptable. I didn't want to argue with him so I let him finish everything else and I just want to figure it out myself...

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Terence

sddawson said:


> One more related question if you don’t mind. How do you handle things like disc menus, or the menus on a streaming player (like an Apple TV)? Do you find you always need to display these 16:9 to see all the information and then switch to scope ratio for content, or can you leave it in scope and see most of what you need to?


If the content is 16:9 I watch it in that format, when I use the ATV 4K it’s in 16:9. So seeing menus and the Home Screen is not an issue. I don’t mind the black bars on the sides.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

aoaaron said:


> N5/N7/N9 RS1000//2000 etc.


So not including the JVC LX-NZ3? It has received great praise for it's built in tone mapping.


----------



## arnemetis

SteveS78 said:


> Just got one of these 5050UB projectors installed today and have two issues with it.
> 
> 1. The installer spotted this and gave me the heads up. In the image, on certain screens (might be dependent on which colors are being shown?), there appears to be almost like a heat effect. Hard to explain, but its the same almost heat cloudy effect you get on top of a hot grill. It looks like that and it is in the one corner of the screen periodically. He thought it MAY have something to do with the bulb having to get set in there after some usage and it may go away. Anyone else experience this? Is it an issue? Should I contact Epson about that? Or is this normal for a brand new 5050?
> 
> 2. The online throw calculator says this projector can be as close as 11'9" for a 120 screen. The installer put it up and had to put it slightly off center...off hand I am going to say no more than 3 or 4 inches. I would have thought there would be no issue given the lense shift. However, there is alittle bit of screen bleed onto the wall (it is a zero edge screen). He insisted that was as good as he could get it. I wasn't buying it as I have researched these units extensively and know the lense shift should do the trick. He had even used a little bit if the keystone to get it to fit closer (it was way worse when he reset the keystone). The image was off balance to the point where in one corner it looked like it fit perfect and then at the bottom it was on the wall. I don't think he had the unit 100% leveled. He claimed he did. But its like it is a little off. As long as it is at least 11'9" back (he put mine at 12 ft maybe even a little more) from the screen and the projector is level and straight at the wall and not pointing down, there should be no issues fitting the imagine perfectly on the screen, right? As of now, it is not acceptable. I didn't want to argue with him so I let him finish everything else and I just want to figure it out myself...
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


No way should you need to use keystone, that should always be the very last resort. The most likely situation is that the lens is simply not level and lined up to the screen. Very carefully check the level and flatness of your screen, then try to adjust the projector. I suggest setting zeroing out the keystone and lens adjustment to let you get as square and even an image as possible to start, then use lens shift to line it up and adjust zoom & focus. This is what I did with mine, which is offset to the left of center by about 4" where the old benq was that had an offset lens location.


----------



## aoaaron

SteveS78 said:


> Just got one of these 5050UB projectors installed today and have two issues with it.
> 
> 1. The installer spotted this and gave me the heads up. In the image, on certain screens (might be dependent on which colors are being shown?), there appears to be almost like a heat effect. Hard to explain, but its the same almost heat cloudy effect you get on top of a hot grill. It looks like that and it is in the one corner of the screen periodically. He thought it MAY have something to do with the bulb having to get set in there after some usage and it may go away. Anyone else experience this? Is it an issue? Should I contact Epson about that? Or is this normal for a brand new 5050?
> 
> 2. The online throw calculator says this projector can be as close as 11'9" for a 120 screen. The installer put it up and had to put it slightly off center...off hand I am going to say no more than 3 or 4 inches. I would have thought there would be no issue given the lense shift. However, there is alittle bit of screen bleed onto the wall (it is a zero edge screen). He insisted that was as good as he could get it. I wasn't buying it as I have researched these units extensively and know the lense shift should do the trick. He had even used a little bit if the keystone to get it to fit closer (it was way worse when he reset the keystone). The image was off balance to the point where in one corner it looked like it fit perfect and then at the bottom it was on the wall. I don't think he had the unit 100% leveled. He claimed he did. But its like it is a little off. As long as it is at least 11'9" back (he put mine at 12 ft maybe even a little more) from the screen and the projector is level and straight at the wall and not pointing down, there should be no issues fitting the imagine perfectly on the screen, right? As of now, it is not acceptable. I didn't want to argue with him so I let him finish everything else and I just want to figure it out myself...
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



sounds like a crap installer to me. as someone said above.. should never have to use keystone if professionally installed.


----------



## aoaaron

Kieran said:


> So not including the JVC LX-NZ3? It has received great praise for it's built in tone mapping.



Sure mate. I was just referring to the models I'm aware of and know a lot about. The NZ3 I forget about a lot due to it being like the ugly cousin of the JVC family


----------



## rekbones

SteveS78 said:


> Just got one of these 5050UB projectors installed today and have two issues with it.
> 
> 1. The installer spotted this and gave me the heads up. In the image, on certain screens (might be dependent on which colors are being shown?), there appears to be almost like a heat effect. Hard to explain, but its the same almost heat cloudy effect you get on top of a hot grill. It looks like that and it is in the one corner of the screen periodically. He thought it MAY have something to do with the bulb having to get set in there after some usage and it may go away. Anyone else experience this? Is it an issue? Should I contact Epson about that? Or is this normal for a brand new 5050?
> 
> 2. The online throw calculator says this projector can be as close as 11'9" for a 120 screen. The installer put it up and had to put it slightly off center...off hand I am going to say no more than 3 or 4 inches. I would have thought there would be no issue given the lense shift. However, there is alittle bit of screen bleed onto the wall (it is a zero edge screen). He insisted that was as good as he could get it. I wasn't buying it as I have researched these units extensively and know the lense shift should do the trick. He had even used a little bit if the keystone to get it to fit closer (it was way worse when he reset the keystone). The image was off balance to the point where in one corner it looked like it fit perfect and then at the bottom it was on the wall. I don't think he had the unit 100% leveled. He claimed he did. But its like it is a little off. As long as it is at least 11'9" back (he put mine at 12 ft maybe even a little more) from the screen and the projector is level and straight at the wall and not pointing down, there should be no issues fitting the imagine perfectly on the screen, right? As of now, it is not acceptable. I didn't want to argue with him so I let him finish everything else and I just want to figure it out myself...
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


As for the heat ripple is there a heating vent or anything to deflect the vent from the projector? If the light stream pass through a thermal variation like from a heating vent you will get this distortion. The second issues as others have stated is simply the lens of the projector is not perpendicular to the screen in 1 or more axis. Digital keystone should never be used and there is no excuse for it. Zero edge screens are a nightmare to get aligned because they have no black boarder to absorb the slight errors in alignment. Walls are rarely plumb so don't expect a level to be of any use, you just need to continue to tweak until you get a square image by rotating the projector first then use zoom/shift to get the image to fit the screen. You may even need to shim one or more corners of the screen if moving the projector isn't working.


----------



## Werewolf79

sddawson said:


> What mechanism do you use to mask the bottom?


Just a cheap solution, I have black velvet over lightweight polystyrene and can put it on the wall, it’s a slim lightweight manual solution which I can use to mask all films up to whatever the aspect ratio is, including Ben Hur and it’s Ultra Panavision 70 wide ratio.

I do not bother with side masking for pre-1953 films but have thought about making something up for them.


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> Just a cheap solution, I have black velvet over lightweight polystyrene and can put it on the wall, it’s a slim lightweight manual solution which I can use to mask all films up to whatever the aspect ratio is, including Ben Hur and it’s Ultra Panavision 70 wide ratio.
> 
> I do not bother with side masking for pre-1953 films but have thought about making something up for them.


Sorry, but could you elaborate a bit? Is it a single panel you can somehow move up and down the bottom of the screen somehow, depending on aspect ratio? Does it somehow attach to the screen border?


----------



## Werewolf79

sddawson said:


> Sorry, but could you elaborate a bit? Is it a single panel you can somehow move up and down the bottom of the screen somehow, depending on aspect ratio? Does it somehow attach to the screen border?


I have hooks on either side of the screen and it’s a single lightweight panel with the black velvet over it.


----------



## sddawson

Terence said:


> If the content is 16:9 I watch it in that format, when I use the ATV 4K it’s in 16:9. So seeing menus and the Home Screen is not an issue. I don’t mind the black bars on the sides.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So taking the ATV4K example, you'd start in 16:9 to see all the menus (with bars at the sides). Then if you play a scope movie using the ATV4K, you use a lens memory so it takes up the whole scope screen. Then when you go back to the ATV4K menu, you have to use a 16:9 lens memory again so you can see it all. Is that what you tend to do? Thanks for the info.


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## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> I have hooks on either side of the screen and it’s a single lightweight panel with the black velvet over it.


So hooks at various levels to cater for different aspect ratios, given that you always move the picture to the top of the 16:9 screen? If that's the case, how do hooks at one level not get in the way of a higher level? Sorry, not quite getting this, but I'd definitely like a simple solution for masking a 16:9 screen.


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## Werewolf79

sddawson said:


> So hooks at various levels to cater for different aspect ratios, given that you always move the picture to the top of the 16:9 screen? If that's the case, how do hooks at one level not get in the way of a higher level? Sorry, not quite getting this, but I'd definitely like a simple solution for masking a 16:9 screen.


It’s a very basic and unsophisticated setup, the hooks don’t get in the way because i put in the wall at different lengths, near the screen and further away at the sides, so they are not directly above each other, it just requires you do it for four basic aspect ratios, 2.0:1, 2.20:1, 2.40:1 and the ultra wide 2.76:1 for anything inbetween i compromise a little.

I like my screen low too, I try for eye line to be middle of the picture but for the scope movies I move up and it’s a little above the middle, for 16/9 content it’s much lower screen and my eye is in the middle.

I have a dedicated room, the screen is fixed to the wall and for the speakers I have black velvet all over them to minimise any reflections, all my gear is to the back of the room or side and out of eye line sight, the screen does not cover the entire wall, it’s 92 inches wide only and speakers at left and right so there is room in my set up to have hooks left and right at different lengths from the side walls.

It would be nice to have a bigger screen but then the other aspects get worse, the 3D is dimmer, the UHD playback gets dimmer due to the filter and most importantly, there is no wall space to do it much bigger due to speaker placement, the room is not big enough to have speakers behind a screen either and that’s a whole new challenge because at the moment the screen is on a wall, that would be a major bit of work to build something for a screen on a wall and speakers behind it, so for me simple works better.


----------



## AVTimme

biglen said:


> My PS4 looks amazing with HDR turned on.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


same here


----------



## plain fan

@aoaaron, what are your thoughts on the 6050 HDR performance when viewing 4K/HDR content from a streaming service? For disc based content you use MadVR which does a great job but what about content streamed? Do you feel that the slider is adequate for that application?


----------



## zdoggz

I recently purchased a 5050ub and plan to install it within the next few days; however, my installer is a bit concerned that it is not a native 4k projector and my screen is 180”. I also had the same concerns but read how good the pixel shifting is. I will be sitting roughly 15’ or so feet away, so what are your thoughts? is my screen and distance too much for this projector and would u suggest I go native 4k?

i really liked the black levels over something like the jvc nz3. The native 4k projectors mostly are less bright too, which may be a problem at a scene that size. I’m seeing on projectorcentral that the fL many of the 4ks will put out would be like 16-17fL. My room will be light controlled, but still! Decisions decisions.

by the way, I purchased the epson about a month ago, so not sure I’d be able to return it if I open it and test it out.


----------



## aoaaron

plain fan said:


> @aoaaron, what are your thoughts on the 6050 HDR performance when viewing 4K/HDR content from a streaming service? For disc based content you use MadVR which does a great job but what about content streamed? Do you feel that the slider is adequate for that application?


It's the same as it would be for disc or video games. It needs DTM IMO. 
I wish we could do a before and after of DTM on everyones 6050s just so they could see the difference. 

But sadly there is no solution for streaming unless you buy MADVR Envy or Lumagen for now. Only other solution is download the streamed content or get local copies.


----------



## diablo900t

Looking for some advice, and I realize this is an Epson thread. My room is 19x17 with a 135" screen, seating distance about 10.5 ft. I'm currently using a BenQ HT5550, which I was pretty happy with, until I saw what my LG CX can do. Now I want a brighter image and better HDR performance; also I do love the motion clarity of DLP.

I don't know if an Epson 5050 or 6050 would make a massive difference in performance, but I would like to know if anyone here has directly compared the two.

I know that the brightness would be a huge step up, and I am also considering moving to a scope screen since the Epson would have lens memory. In the long run, a JVC NX5/7 would be a better solution, but I'm looking at a stop gap until the next round of JVCs are released and better gaming support is a thing.

I would consider buying a used or refurb Epson that would help me make the move without expending a lot of extra cash after selling the HT5550.


----------



## aoaaron

zdoggz said:


> I recently purchased a 5050ub and plan to install it within the next few days; however, my installer is a bit concerned that it is not a native 4k projector and my screen is 180”. I also had the same concerns but read how good the pixel shifting is. I will be sitting roughly 15’ or so feet away, so what are your thoughts? is my screen and distance too much for this projector and would u suggest I go native 4k?
> 
> i really liked the black levels over something like the jvc nz3. The native 4k projectors mostly are less bright too, which may be a problem at a scene that size. I’m seeing on projectorcentral that the fL many of the 4ks will put out would be like 16-17fL. My room will be light controlled, but still! Decisions decisions.
> 
> by the way, I purchased the epson about a month ago, so not sure I’d be able to return it if I open it and test it out.


For films and TV shows, the pixel shifting tech is fine. 4K looks awesome and the Epson image enhancement issues do a decent job of sharpening up the images too.
For videogames, it is no OLED or native 4K lens but still looks fantastic.

180'' is massive but you should still be absolutely fine with pixel shifting. Native is better, sure but native is more expensive and comes its own compromises. I wouldn't go for a dimmer projector as you are not going to be playing with a lot of lumens at 180'' even on an Epson 5050ub at high lamp mode on bright cinema.. cos u know.. 180'' is big  especially for HDR.

HDR wise I suggest you look into DTM via MADVR HTPC or MADVR ENVY or LUMAGEN because you will REALLLY need it for HDR content with a 180'' screen. The colour filter for you in HDR will make the image WAY too dim so you will be better off mapping the content to BT2020 bright cinema or natural mode and you will get some amazing results.


but then again u run a 180'' screen.. im sure the picture that big does all the talking anyway even if HDR might not be as good as it can be if u dont want to DTM


----------



## aoaaron

diablo900t said:


> Looking for some advice, and I realize this is an Epson thread. My room is 19x17 with a 135" screen, seating distance about 10.5 ft. I'm currently using a BenQ HT5550, which I was pretty happy with, until I saw what my LG CX can do. Now I want a brighter image and better HDR performance; also I do love the motion clarity of DLP.
> 
> I don't know if an Epson 5050 or 6050 would make a massive difference in performance, but I would like to know if anyone here has directly compared the two.
> 
> I know that the brightness would be a huge step up, and I am also considering moving to a scope screen since the Epson would have lens memory. In the long run, a JVC NX5/7 would be a better solution, but I'm looking at a stop gap until the next round of JVCs are released and better gaming support is a thing.
> 
> I would consider buying a used or refurb Epson that would help me make the move without expending a lot of extra cash after selling the HT5550.



The JVC NX5/7 are better yes, but the Epson does have it beaten for brightness.

The Epson 6050/5050 will not match your OLED or come close until you TREAT YOUR ROOM. If blacks are a concern, get a grey screen or preferably an ALR screen if your room isn't treated.

For HDR performance, you need DTM so HTPC with MADVR or MADVR Envy or Lumagen will in my experience provide the Epson 6050/5050/5040/6040 with the tone mapping gunpower to go head to head on HDR impact and enjoyment of an OLED. It will NOT match the contrast/blacks but having 100''+ inches of high nit beautifully mapped good contrast colours popping out with Epson's 3D like picture processing is going to be fantastic.

Withut MADVR Envy/Lumagen/MADVR via HTPC, in all honesty no Epson does not hold a candle to CX because CX has 4 advantages:
1. Brighter pixels
2. Self emitting singular pixels for specular highlight detail
3. Wider colour gamut
4. Dynamic tone mapping.

If you can bring some form of dynamic tone mapping which is superior to LGs to the Epson, then YES, HDR can look fantastic. It will end up having:
1. Better tone mapping
2. this can lead to perceived better contrast of scenes
3. Better FULL FIELD NIT BRIGHTNESS IMPACT cos this is OLED's weakness
4. Better image stability in HDR and shadow detail
5. Better motion in HDR (I find OLEDS struggle on this cos colour white and panning shots causes signficant stutter and judder).


I had 77 inch CX and GX so I know how u feel. These 2 images made me think 6050ub was a bit substandard in HDR. Well its not, it just needs the right software to work proeprly.
MADVR HTPC required u have MKV or ISO of ur blurays or content to work and a PC to play them off of course. I can say that the picture from 6040 with MADVR is more pleasing to my eye for films and TV shows which are HDR than my 77'' OLED once I take into account the beter motion and bigger size.

For video games, the only solution is JVC NX5+NX7 or a Lumagen/MADVR envy which are both very expensive.



If you are on a budget, I would suggest you look into:
1. HTPC for MADVR DTM (£1000, run RTX 2060, any current gen Ryzen processor) This is a 2-3 day job. 1 day building, 1 day software and tweaking, 1 day ripping.
2. Epson 6040/5040 for £1000 or 6050/6040 for £2500

The epson 6050 has distinct advantages of 4K/60/HDR via 18gbps HDMI port (but no DTM for the HDR so u are reliant on slider which will not match up to CX which has DTM) and slightly better pixel e-shift alongisde a DIFFERENT sharpening algorithm (i found 6050ub too aggressive BUT thats not a problem ; by this I mean image preset sharpen 4-5 on the 6040 feels like a 3 on the 6050, this could be because of the different/slightly better pixel E-shift but the jury is out on this one.. to me it just looks like Epson went crazy with the sharpen filter on the 6050 series).



I am apologising once again to everyone on the thread for writing an essay but this gentleman was in EXACTLY the same position I was a couple of weeks ago so I feel I want to try and provide all the info I can since I have been through the troubles of trying to find a comparable solution to OLED HDR on projection without busting my balls for a JVC NX5/7 which doesn't have HDMI 2.1 and is now 2 years old.

you are honestly like my twin. I also do not want to buy JVC until better gaming support because if we are to spend £7000 on a PJ, I need it to be able to do everything. 

For my experience, I have owned 6050UB, 6040UB, LG OLED CX 77'', LG OLED GX 77'' in the past 7-8 months.


----------



## diablo900t

aoaaron said:


> The JVC NX5/7 are better yes, but the Epson does have it beaten for brightness.
> 
> The Epson 6050/5050 will not match your OLED or come close until you TREAT YOUR ROOM. If blacks are a concern, get a grey screen or preferably an ALR screen if your room isn't treated.
> 
> For HDR performance, you need DTM so HTPC with MADVR or MADVR Envy or Lumagen will in my experience provide the Epson 6050/5050/5040/6040 with the tone mapping gunpower to go head to head on HDR impact and enjoyment of an OLED. It will NOT match the contrast/blacks but having 100''+ inches of high nit beautifully mapped good contrast colours popping out with Epson's 3D like picture processing is going to be fantastic.
> 
> Withut MADVR Envy/Lumagen/MADVR via HTPC, in all honesty no Epson does not hold a candle to CX because CX has 4 advantages:
> 1. Brighter pixels
> 2. Self emitting singular pixels for specular highlight detail
> 3. Wider colour gamut
> 4. Dynamic tone mapping.
> 
> If you can bring some form of dynamic tone mapping which is superior to LGs to the Epson, then YES, HDR can look fantastic. It will end up having:
> 1. Better tone mapping
> 2. this can lead to perceived better contrast of scenes
> 3. Better FULL FIELD NIT BRIGHTNESS IMPACT cos this is OLED's weakness
> 4. Better image stability in HDR and shadow detail
> 5. Better motion in HDR (I find OLEDS struggle on this cos colour white and panning shots causes signficant stutter and judder).
> 
> 
> I had 77 inch CX and GX so I know how u feel. These 2 images made me think 6050ub was a bit substandard in HDR. Well its not, it just needs the right software to work proeprly.
> MADVR HTPC required u have MKV or ISO of ur blurays or content to work and a PC to play them off of course. I can say that the picture from 6040 with MADVR is more pleasing to my eye for films and TV shows which are HDR than my 77'' OLED once I take into account the beter motion and bigger size.
> 
> For video games, the only solution is JVC NX5+NX7 or a Lumagen/MADVR envy which are both very expensive.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are on a budget, I would suggest you look into:
> 1. HTPC for MADVR DTM (£1000, run RTX 2060, any current gen Ryzen processor) This is a 2-3 day job. 1 day building, 1 day software and tweaking, 1 day ripping.
> 2. Epson 6040/5040 for £1000 or 6050/6040 for £2500
> 
> The epson 6050 has distinct advantages of 4K/60/HDR via 18gbps HDMI port (but no DTM for the HDR so u are reliant on slider which will not match up to CX which has DTM) and slightly better pixel e-shift alongisde a DIFFERENT sharpening algorithm (i found 6050ub too aggressive BUT thats not a problem ; by this I mean image preset sharpen 4-5 on the 6040 feels like a 3 on the 6050, this could be because of the different/slightly better pixel E-shift but the jury is out on this one.. to me it just looks like Epson went crazy with the sharpen filter on the 6050 series).
> 
> 
> 
> I am apologising once again to everyone on the thread for writing an essay but this gentleman was in EXACTLY the same position I was a couple of weeks ago so I feel I want to try and provide all the info I can since I have been through the troubles of trying to find a comparable solution to OLED HDR on projection without busting my balls for a JVC NX5/7 which doesn't have HDMI 2.1 and is now 2 years old.
> 
> you are honestly like my twin. I also do not want to buy JVC until better gaming support because if we are to spend £7000 on a PJ, I need it to be able to do everything.
> 
> For my experience, I have owned 6050UB, 6040UB, LG OLED CX 77'', LG OLED GX 77'' in the past 7-8 months.


I appreciate all the feedback! My room does have dark walls and ceilings and is light controlled. I think bottom line, there's a significant amount of effort and cost to achieve a level of performance close to OLED. JVC is probably the closest to it, and I think my answer might be to wait until the next generation, which might not be too far off. In the interim, maybe I could repurpose my desktop for MadVR


----------



## Kieran

aoaaron said:


> Sure mate. I was just referring to the models I'm aware of and know a lot about. The NZ3 I forget about a lot due to it being like the ugly cousin of the JVC family


I guess I was asking if you know if the DLP nz3's tone mapping is in the same class as it's LCOS big siblings?


----------



## Werewolf79

diablo900t said:


> Looking for some advice, and I realize this is an Epson thread. My room is 19x17 with a 135" screen, seating distance about 10.5 ft. I'm currently using a BenQ HT5550, which I was pretty happy with, until I saw what my LG CX can do. Now I want a brighter image and better HDR performance; also I do love the motion clarity of DLP.
> 
> I don't know if an Epson 5050 or 6050 would make a massive difference in performance, but I would like to know if anyone here has directly compared the two.
> 
> I know that the brightness would be a huge step up, and I am also considering moving to a scope screen since the Epson would have lens memory. In the long run, a JVC NX5/7 would be a better solution, but I'm looking at a stop gap until the next round of JVCs are released and better gaming support is a thing.
> 
> I would consider buying a used or refurb Epson that would help me make the move without expending a lot of extra cash after selling the HT5550.


I have a DLP, was using for 3D, I can say for movies with this Epson I see no issues with motion, at 60hz I see slight stutter with motion on streaming UHD, I have not tried normal HD yet on Netflix or Prime but I saw some mild stutter with 60hz material The Boys on Amazon Prime, 23.976hz aka 24hz is perfect, as is 50hz material.

I think we get that DTM is good, it will be on the next Epson projector released next year but you can get fabulous image quality from UHD discs when you send SDR/BT2020 and I have also tested HDR/BT2020 and the images can look fabulous with the correct slider preset, it just takes extra effort and calibration to achieve.

I am quite fussy with image quality, and sound quality, I got a Mini DSP due to the bass getting filtered below 30hz now on every major home release or reissue of old releases, I have a great SVS subwoofer, twin 12 inch drivers, fires down to 12hz in room and is massive, but they filter all the bass now, it’s a disgrace, obviously done deliberately so Mini DSP it is, but I crave great sound, great image quality, release a MADVR Envy device at the same price as a Mini DSP and sure I will purchase it, charge thousands of pounds and I will not.

There is no projector for the home market at an affordable price that can really do HDR justice, even in the brightest modes a projector simply can not do it, I would never sacrifice the wide colour for a brighter image, good decent black levels with shadow detail at the bottom end, good decent mid tones, good decent picture at the higher brightness levels without blowing out white detail that’s the aim and that’s what I have, it took me a lot of calibration and hours to achieve due to the gamma not playing nice for at least 150 hours when the bulb was new, calibration gets you the pop, the quality, the great image that people want with this projector.

MADVR is simply not for everyone, it requires a competent HTCP setup, ripping MKV files is fiddly and extra software is required, if you don’t do that you need a Pioneer or LG drive and the correct graphics card setup to pass the copyright protection too, my experience is LG can sometimes have forced noise reduction on their players, that’s terrible, I cannot accept that, MADVR Envy, how much is that, not cheap I bet.

The bottom line is you can get great quality without DTM, but yes I accept DTM would be even better but it is not correct to say DTM or nothing, to say without DTM the image is bad for everyone, it is not.


----------



## twistone

aoaaron said:


> I am apologising once again to everyone on the thread for writing an essay


Thank you for all of the information over the last few pages. You've helped to summarize lots of reading & searching in different forums. I'm not new to projectors (owned CRTs and digital for 15+ years) but a total newbie on HDR.

I can build computers though...so I'm thinking an htpc may be the way to go, eventually.


----------



## aoaaron

diablo900t said:


> I appreciate all the feedback! My room does have dark walls and ceilings and is light controlled. I think bottom line, there's a significant amount of effort and cost to achieve a level of performance close to OLED. JVC is probably the closest to it, and I think my answer might be to wait until the next generation, which might not be too far off. In the interim, maybe I could repurpose my desktop for MadVR



Hi mate. If you have a dark walls and ceilings (black) and light controlled, then I think you are going to get very close to the OLED even with the Epson if you use MADVR. 
The only suggestion I can give is you use a grey screen, ND filter or an ALR screen if you need to get your blacks on the Epson a bit more black. 

I think you are going to be VERY impressed with an Epson 5040/6040/5050/6050 and MADVR in that room as it sounds perfect. I have a venture you will end up preferring the 135'' HDR performance with MADVR in natural medium or high lamp mode to the OLED. 

The only scenes Epson will fall short is specular highlight detail because it doesn't have native contrasy to create really bright stars on a black background BUT it has more lumens than the JVCs which will make brighter scenes have more pop and impact. Please go for the Epson and tell me what you think in your room. I would reccomend 6040+MADVR and save the £1400 for the JVC or Epson 6060 fund for next year. 





twistone said:


> Thank you for all of the information over the last few pages. You've helped to summarize lots of reading & searching in different forums. I'm not new to projectors (owned CRTs and digital for 15+ years) but a total newbie on HDR.
> 
> I can build computers though...so I'm thinking an htpc may be the way to go, eventually.


Thank you mate. I am wary I type too much but I have been through a massive home cinema journey the last few months.. and come full circle. I have a few friends on have 20k-40k home cinema setups and told me.. projectors can match and surpass OLEDs with DTM. I thought they were talking out their ass to be frank... 
But god I was wrong and I was the only talking out of my ass lol. And it took me A LOT of reading, multiple returns of OLEDs, and seeing a lot of projectors to realise this information.  


I think of Epson 6050 & 6040 as fantastic projectors. But we are in a Matrix moment. You choose which pill you want to take.. and if you take the DTM pill... then you become Neo. god I'm a loser.    I am like a crap home cinema nerdy Morpheus


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## Kieran

aoaaron said:


> I am wary I type too much but I have been through a massive home cinema journey the last few months.. and come full circle.


I don't think you need to apologize so much! I'm not likely going to invest in a DTM solution at this time, too budget conscious and I watch discs too infrequently for it to be worth the hassle to rip every movie I want to watch in HDR. >90% of what we watch these days is streamed content. My system needs to be wife and kid friendly to use. I've been down the HTPC route in the past (never with a projector or for HDR reasons) and it can be a real hassle. You have to enjoy constant maintenance and tweaking, which the family does not. 

But your posts are very informative and it's better for people to know up front what to expect, rather than come posting here after they get their Epson installed complaining that HDR doesn't look good etc.

What I appreciate with your posts is that you are not dogmatic about the need for DTM; you give people the option, which I think is important. Not everyone can afford a USD$12,000 MadVR Envy box, or a $1,000 MadVR htpc for that matter. And that's OK. It also gives us info on what to hope for / expect / demand from future projectors.

I get annoyed at the tone some people have who imply that if you don't do it the way they are suggesting, then you're an idiot and you deserve your crappy A/V experience. Most of us have setups with some sort of compromises in place (e.g. no felt ceilings, non-ideal light control, non-ideal throw distance, etc) but we come here to learn how to make the best of the situation we have. Which knobs can we turn that will have the biggest impact/improvement, given our constraints be they room/family/budget/etc?

So good on you for sharing what can be achieved for HDR with these projectors, but not forcing it down people's throats.


----------



## aoaaron

Kieran said:


> I don't think you need to apologize so much! I'm not likely going to invest in a DTM solution at this time, too budget conscious and I watch discs too infrequently for it to be worth the hassle to rip every movie I want to watch in HDR. >90% of what we watch these days is streamed content. My system needs to be wife and kid friendly to use. I've been down the HTPC route in the past (never with a projector or for HDR reasons) and it can be a real hassle. You have to enjoy constant maintenance and tweaking, which the family does not.
> 
> But your posts are very informative and it's better for people to know up front what to expect, rather than come posting here after they get their Epson installed complaining that HDR doesn't look good etc.
> 
> What I appreciate with your posts is that you are not dogmatic about the need for DTM; you give people the option, which I think is important. Not everyone can afford a USD$12,000 MadVR Envy box, or a $1,000 MadVR htpc for that matter. And that's OK. It also gives us info on what to hope for / expect / demand from future projectors.
> 
> I get annoyed at the tone some people have who imply that if you don't do it the way they are suggesting, then you're an idiot and you deserve your crappy A/V experience. Most of us have setups with some sort of compromises in place (e.g. no felt ceilings, non-ideal light control, non-ideal throw distance, etc) but we come here to learn how to make the best of the situation we have. Which knobs can we turn that will have the biggest impact/improvement, given our constraints be they room/family/budget/etc?
> 
> So good on you for sharing what can be achieved for HDR with these projectors, but not forcing it down people's throats.


exactly mate, you raise some awesome points. For me I have white walls white ceiling, had to buy an alr screen. Some purists would obviously look down on that but projection and home cinema is all about compromises around our life, budget, aesthetics, time ☺☺☺


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## Musty Hustla

Werewolf79 said:


> Yes but remember you can use Eco mode, you can dial it down using the contrast control and the manual iris too, many variables on the brightness and the lamp aging will also reduce it, also an NDx2 filter would reduce brightness by over half and give you better black levels.


Good thing I'm cheap. I've been using Eco since day 1!


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## wookiegr

aoaaron said:


> exactly mate, you raise some awesome points. For me I have white walls white ceiling, had to buy an alr screen. Some purists would obviously look down on that but projection and home cinema is all about compromises around our life, budget, aesthetics, time ☺☺☺


I would definitely expect purists and non purists alike to look down on someone attempting to install a projector in the completely wrong environment. That's what TV's are for. Without the correct environment, the image will never look as good as it should and it's money down the drain.


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## TTFORUM

Kieran said:


> My system needs to be wife and kid friendly to use. I've been down the HTPC route in the past (never with a projector or for HDR reasons) and it can be a real hassle. You have to enjoy constant maintenance and tweaking, which the family does not.


I so identify with this comment. I've had a couple HTPC's and even now with my ever changing set of "regular" home theater gear it can be problematic. My wife makes me teach her how to use the system every time I make a change. A couple of times she's had a friend over to watch shows and couldn't work the system and it left her feeling very embarrassed, which felt like a big fail for me.


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## aoaaron

wookiegr said:


> I would definitely expect purists and non purists alike to look down on someone attempting to install a projector in the completely wrong environment. That's what TV's are for. Without the correct environment, the image will never look as good as it should and it's money down the drain.



Yup agreed. ALR screen luckily saves the day. I have 100% light control and black devore curtains on one side of the room and the entire wall opposite the PJ is black. But its no batcave. That will happen when I upgrade home cinema room 

Sadly cannot afford a 100'' TV.


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## Kieran

wookiegr said:


> Without the correct environment, the image will never look as good as it should and it's money down the drain.


These are the kinds comments that drive me crazy, and help no one. To each his own; we all make the compromises that make sense to us. Educate, don't judge. It's money down the drain in your opinion, but maybe not to someone else. Maybe having a 120" image with lower image quality is worth it to someone, for the fun wow factor alone. 
A 77" OLED on the wall is not only not as huge, but also doesn't disappear into the ceiling when not in use. That fact alone is the primary reason I am going with a projector. The wife wants no TV visible when not in use for our new room. So, given that fact, I want to learn what I can do to make the most of my budget and environment/room.
I'm going to have a 110" ALR screen, 5050UB, black-out blinds, but light paint on all the walls and ceilings. It's non-ideal, but it's what I've got. Now I'm trying to learn what else will make it as good as it can be without breaking the bank.


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## fredworld

fredworld said:


> Today I tried to test my new lamp that I purchased on September 9, 2020. Surprisingly, the module's retaining screws are oversized and won't catch to the projector's lamp socket chassis' threads. MyProjectorLamps told me they will replace the lamp. The photo shows the difference in size. Moral: check your lamps ASAP after purchase.
> View attachment 3063708


I shipped the "defective" lamp back to MyProjectorLamps on Monday, 12/7/20. This morning I got a notice that the replacement was shipped Fedex Overnight Delivery. Upon receipt I'll check it ASAP and report back.  for service!!


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## gunlife

aoaaron said:


> Yup agreed. ALR screen luckily saves the day. I have 100% light control and black devore curtains on one side of the room and the entire wall opposite the PJ is black. But its no batcave. That will happen when I upgrade home cinema room
> 
> Sadly cannot afford a 100'' TV.


I am excited for you to get a proper cinema room! I moved last year and had an ALR screen before. I had a lot of the problems you describe having with the 6050 tone mapping that were cleaned up a lot just by going to triple black velvet ceiling and a neutral white screen. I did have a cheap ALR screen so maybe it was part of the problem. But I never could get the color consistence and sometimes the brightest parts would look blown out. I think some of it has to due with not needing as much brightness in a pure black room, but also my cheap ALR messed stuff up. It did help the black levels but screwed up a lot more.


----------



## Hopinater

Kieran said:


> These are the kinds comments that drive me crazy, and help no one. To each his own; we all make the compromises that make sense to us. Educate, don't judge. It's money down the drain in your opinion, but maybe not to someone else. Maybe having a 120" image with lower image quality is worth it to someone, for the fun wow factor alone.
> A 77" OLED on the wall is not only not as huge, but also doesn't disappear into the ceiling when not in use. That fact alone is the primary reason I am going with a projector. The wife wants no TV visible when not in use for our new room. So, given that fact, I want to learn what I can do to make the most of my budget and environment/room.
> I'm going to have a 110" ALR screen, 5050UB, black-out blinds, but light paint on all the walls and ceilings. It's non-ideal, but it's what I've got. Now I'm trying to learn what else will make it as good as it can be without breaking the bank.


I agree.. I've been in the home theater game for a lot of years and unless you have a dedicated home theater then compromise is the name of the game.

I've spent most of my time focusing on the audio side of this world and speaker/subwoofer placement is very important to great sound. For instance, optimum bass requires the proper placement of the sub in the room but a lot of the time you can't place a sub where it would sound best so you have to make a compromise. Does that mean it's not worth having a subwoofer if you have to compromise? No! You'll still get decent bass and that bass will make the movie come alive.

The same is true with video. I don't have a dedicated theater so I've had to make some compromises... but I've got the light controlled pretty well and the Epson 5050 with a Silverticket grey screen makes for a pretty great picture. And at 100" it's far bigger than any TV I could afford. Any compromise was worth it.


----------



## fredworld

sddawson said:


> I'm interested in how people handle scope screens with regard to all the varying aspects ratios these days. Of course, we have 16:9 and 2.35, but Netflix and AppleTV+ seems to often use their own aspect ratios which are neither of those (and different to each other). They are sort of slightly widescreen. So do you just project them as 2.35 and chop a little off the top and bottom, or do you use the lens memories to make their height fit and leave black bars at either side, much like you would with 16:9 content (although they would have narrower black bars). You'd end up with quite a few different lens memories, of course.


One can make this as complicated or as simple as they please. I took the simple approach. I installed *"swing-bar" curtain rods* at the sides of my screen (see pics). Closed it's 1.78, open it's 2.35. For aspect ratios other than 2.35 or 1.78 I merely extend the rods to cover the side bars. Works easily and aesthetically acceptable. I removed the screw-off balls at the ends of the rods because their weight caused a sag when installing.

I have about a 1/2 dozen lens memories stored in my 5050UB to include variable aspect ratio films. By slightly reducing the image size of 2.35 films and blanking the top and bottom of the 1.78 image I get a very small black bar at the top and bottom of the 2.35 portion of the film (with side black bars that are masked by the swing curtains) and a slight cropping of the top and bottom of the 1.78 image so it fits the image height of the screen but fills the width of the programmed 2.35 area. Overall it's a very good compromise to retain most of the effect of the larger 1.78 image when the movie switches from 2.35 to 1.78. I like it.


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## wookiegr

Kieran said:


> These are the kinds comments that drive me crazy, and help no one. To each his own; we all make the compromises that make sense to us. Educate, don't judge. It's money down the drain in your opinion, but maybe not to someone else. Maybe having a 120" image with lower image quality is worth it to someone, for the fun wow factor alone.
> A 77" OLED on the wall is not only not as huge, but also doesn't disappear into the ceiling when not in use. That fact alone is the primary reason I am going with a projector. The wife wants no TV visible when not in use for our new room. So, given that fact, I want to learn what I can do to make the most of my budget and environment/room.
> I'm going to have a 110" ALR screen, 5050UB, black-out blinds, but light paint on all the walls and ceilings. It's non-ideal, but it's what I've got. Now I'm trying to learn what else will make it as good as it can be without breaking the bank.


It's absolutely money down the drain when a projector can't do black levels because there are reflections bouncing around the room. Why does that trigger you?


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## fredworld

Kieran said:


> These are the kinds comments that drive me crazy, and help no one. To each his own; we all make the compromises that make sense to us. Educate, don't judge. It's money down the drain in your opinion, but maybe not to someone else. Maybe having a 120" image with lower image quality is worth it to someone, for the fun wow factor alone.
> A 77" OLED on the wall is not only not as huge, but also doesn't disappear into the ceiling when not in use. That fact alone is the primary reason I am going with a projector. The wife wants no TV visible when not in use for our new room. So, given that fact, I want to learn what I can do to make the most of my budget and environment/room.
> I'm going to have a 110" ALR screen, 5050UB, black-out blinds, but light paint on all the walls and ceilings. It's non-ideal, but it's what I've got. Now I'm trying to learn what else will make it as good as it can be without breaking the bank.





wookiegr said:


> It's absolutely money down the drain when a projector can't do black levels because there are reflections bouncing around the room. Why does that trigger you?


Kieran explained it very well. You'll just need to agree to disagree. Trying to equate the worth of monetary investment vs emotional gratification is pointless.


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## aoaaron

gunlife said:


> I am excited for you to get a proper cinema room! I moved last year and had an ALR screen before. I had a lot of the problems you describe having with the 6050 tone mapping that were cleaned up a lot just by going to triple black velvet ceiling and a neutral white screen. I did have a cheap ALR screen so maybe it was part of the problem. But I never could get the color consistence and sometimes the brightest parts would look blown out. I think some of it has to due with not needing as much brightness in a pure black room, but also my cheap ALR messed stuff up. It did help the black levels but screwed up a lot more.



Thanks mate! Yes I might keep ALR screen even in a dark room just so I can use it in daytime.. but it might be something i regret due to the gain.

I have friends over and the dedicated room will still be used for entertainment and parties. I'd like to be able to have the PJ on in the background playing content whilst people drink at the bar in the front of the room and sit down and can chill... but we'll see. Its a definite experiment and the electric ALR screen cost of a 130'' model will set me back £2000... which just for being able to keep the light on is a bit of a pain.


----------



## aoaaron

Kieran said:


> These are the kinds comments that drive me crazy, and help no one. To each his own; we all make the compromises that make sense to us. Educate, don't judge. It's money down the drain in your opinion, but maybe not to someone else. Maybe having a 120" image with lower image quality is worth it to someone, for the fun wow factor alone.
> A 77" OLED on the wall is not only not as huge, but also doesn't disappear into the ceiling when not in use. That fact alone is the primary reason I am going with a projector. The wife wants no TV visible when not in use for our new room. So, given that fact, I want to learn what I can do to make the most of my budget and environment/room.
> I'm going to have a 110" ALR screen, 5050UB, black-out blinds, but light paint on all the walls and ceilings. It's non-ideal, but it's what I've got. Now I'm trying to learn what else will make it as good as it can be without breaking the bank.



Completely and utterly agree mate. I tried to hold my tongue but such close-minded people and honestly I thought it was an utterly idiotic comment but decided to just play nice. 







Visual TV Size Comparison : 120 inch 16x9 display vs 77 inch 16x9 display


Visual size comparison of a 120 inch 16x9 display vs 77 inch 16x9 display



www.displaywars.com




How anyone in the world thinks those two image sizes are even comparable is beyond me.


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## aoaaron

wookiegr said:


> It's absolutely money down the drain when a projector can't do black levels because there are reflections bouncing around the room. Why does that trigger you?



Its not exactly about triggering people.. I hate that word. Someone says something utterly close minded and idiotic and talks if people are being 'triggered'. Immature.
Kieran is annoyed because understandably for some HT is a compromise.. and as part of that compromise its nice to be respectful and not write off someone's experiences.
Yes black levels will be an issue but an ALR screen is a compromise; just like everything in HT.
If you want a big screen experience and can't afford the space in your house to fully room treat it, it doesn't mean they can't cater and have a PJ.
Yes it means their PJ doesn't live up to their full expectations and potential but it'll still likely be enjoyable.

I could be a knob and start saying if people don't have dual or triple subwoofers, they aren't doing bass properly. Or if they don't have a dedicated amplifier, they aren't doing their speakers justice.. of if you don't own £100,000 a year you shouldn't do this or that.. imagine extending your close-mindedness to any other facet in life and you'll see its just pure and simple not coming across as a nice person.

Its just being a ******, pure and simple. Elitest and not taking into account people's individual circumstances.

I am lucky, make a decent amount of money a year, no debts, I have 3 lounges and as a single guy can have one just for home cinema but some people have kids, a wife, an elderly relative to look after a small house. For other people, a dedicated room isn't a possibility. It shouldn't mean we demean and write off their experience because they are trying to get the best experience they can with their circumstances.


----------



## gunlife

aoaaron said:


> Thanks mate! Yes I might keep ALR screen even in a dark room just so I can use it in daytime.. but it might be something i regret due to the gain.
> 
> I have friends over and the dedicated room will still be used for entertainment and parties. I'd like to be able to have the PJ on in the background playing content whilst people drink at the bar in the front of the room and sit down and can chill... but we'll see. Its a definite experiment and the electric ALR screen cost of a 130'' model will set me back £2000... which just for being able to keep the light on is a bit of a pain.


At least try a white sample if possible. For things like sports I have been surprised how well my white screen holds up to a lamp or two on. A videophile like yourself would appreciate a white screen IMO. Either way have fun with it!


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## cbatc

Kieran said:


> These are the kinds comments that drive me crazy, and help no one. To each his own; we all make the compromises that make sense to us. Educate, don't judge. It's money down the drain in your opinion, but maybe not to someone else. Maybe having a 120" image with lower image quality is worth it to someone, for the fun wow factor alone.
> A 77" OLED on the wall is not only not as huge, but also doesn't disappear into the ceiling when not in use. That fact alone is the primary reason I am going with a projector. The wife wants no TV visible when not in use for our new room. So, given that fact, I want to learn what I can do to make the most of my budget and environment/room.
> I'm going to have a 110" ALR screen, 5050UB, black-out blinds, but light paint on all the walls and ceilings. It's non-ideal, but it's what I've got. Now I'm trying to learn what else will make it as good as it can be without breaking the bank.


What screen are you looking at?


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## Luminated67

gunlife said:


> At least try a white sample if possible. For things like sports I have been surprised how well my white screen holds up to a lamp or two on. A videophile like yourself would appreciate a white screen IMO. Either way have fun with it!


If you are willing to accept that your blacks are shot to pieces then a white screen will work but with any ambient light in the room other than the projector light itself an ALR screen be the better option.

And based on my own experience a light grey screen in even a fully treated room offers better blacks without adversely affecting the colours.


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## gunlife

Luminated67 said:


> If you are willing to accept that your blacks are shot to pieces then a white screen will work but with any ambient light in the room other than the projector light itself an ALR screen be the better option.
> 
> And based on my own experience a light grey screen in even a fully treated room offers better blacks without adversely affecting the colours.


Can't argue with that at all. Agreed you blacks are instantly elevated. Thats why I said for sports it looks ok. 

Never tried a grey screen. But I do love being fortunate enough to have a fully treated room at this point.

BTW way still wouldnt have done it any other way than the ALR setup I had. It made people gasp when they rounded the cornor and the whole wall was Epsoned


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## DarrinH

post removed


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## aoaaron

gunlife said:


> At least try a white sample if possible. For things like sports I have been surprised how well my white screen holds up to a lamp or two on. A videophile like yourself would appreciate a white screen IMO. Either way have fun with it!



I will give is a try for sure. It will save me a lot of money and for dark room performance, it will save me a lot of light too which will make 3D brighter right?
I will miss this though.. this is my ALR screen during the day with Epson 6040 in eco lamp mode, natural.


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## gunlife

aoaaron said:


> I will give is a try for sure. It will save me a lot of money and for dark room performance, it will save me a lot of light too which will make 3D brighter right?
> I will miss this though.. this is my ALR screen during the day with Epson 6040 in eco lamp mode, natural.



Yes in a dark room with a screen that size you would have a much easier time with brightness. For SDR and a new bulb you would be stopping the IRIS way down to get reference quality. I am fortunate enough to have a treated room now. But it is a smaller room. So I only have a small 100" screen. When my 5050 bulb was new I had to stop the iris all the way down on natural preset and still it was too bright (SDR of course). I also have no problem running HDR in Digital Cinema preset and medium lamp. Literally my wife was bitching about some HDR highlights being to bright on the Mandalorian (our eyes where seeing stars). When the room is pitch black, with triple black velvet everywhere and tape over the lights on the receiver and player your eyes adjust to that darkness and I personally don't want anything any brighter in my small theater than what I am getting. I understand that a 120" or 150" would be a different ball game. 

But I ran a 100" ALR before very similar to you setup there and loved it for sure!


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## JPBoggis

DTM is also possible with the HDFury Vertex2/Diva/Arcana Dolby Vision LLDV 'hack' with a suitable source device such as Apple TV 4K, Amazon Fire 4K, some UHD disc players, etc. This allows Dolby Vision content to be enjoyed on any HDR10 capable TV or projector.

I've been using this since earlier this year with my Epson TW9400 and I find it makes a significant difference over HDR10 (Netflix, iTunes, Apple TV+ & Disney+ all have plenty of Dolby Vision content.)


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## aoaaron

gunlife said:


> Yes in a dark room with a screen that size you would have a much easier time with brightness. For SDR and a new bulb you would be stopping the IRIS way down to get reference quality. I am fortunate enough to have a treated room now. But it is a smaller room. So I only have a small 100" screen. When my 5050 bulb was new I had to stop the iris all the way down on natural preset and still it was too bright (SDR of course). I also have no problem running HDR in Digital Cinema preset and medium lamp. Literally my wife was bitching about some HDR highlights being to bright on the Mandalorian (our eyes where seeing stars). When the room is pitch black, with triple black velvet everywhere and tape over the lights on the receiver and player your eyes adjust to that darkness and I personally don't want anything any brighter in my small theater than what I am getting. I understand that a 120" or 150" would be a different ball game.
> 
> But I ran a 100" ALR before very similar to you setup there and loved it for sure!




Hmmm okay. I'll definitely first run with a normal screen if I can find one. I can sell the 110'' ALR for a decent wedge of cash so I'm happy either way. 

I do need all the brightness I can get as I'd love to have 3D go to that next level and 3D obviously eats light for breakfast. 
And of course with MADVR, the HDR can do with ALL the light it can get once again. 

Also ALR screens can do the whole hotspotting thing.. its definitely food for thought. I'll probably test BOTH screens since I already have done the hard part of finding an ALR (which I got for a very cheap price from a contact I know ). I just like being able to have the lights and window open during the daytime. 

when I used to not have an ALR screen, my heart would drop when someone would open the door and light would pour in and my image would go to a grey mess. And I swear they would have a sneaky grin on their face.    With the ALR, I'm like do u wanna open that door even wider? draw a curtain?


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## aoaaron

JPBoggis said:


> DTM is also possible with the HDFury Vertex2/Diva/Arcana Dolby Vision LLDV 'hack' with a suitable source device such as Apple TV 4K, Amazon Fire 4K, some UHD disc players, etc. This allows Dolby Vision content to be enjoyed on any HDR10 capable TV or projector.
> 
> I've been using this since earlier this year with my Epson TW9400 and I find it makes a significant difference over HDR10 (Netflix, iTunes, Apple TV+ & Disney+ all have plenty of Dolby Vision content.)



Thank you for this mate!! How much does it cost?
I would be VERY interested in this because I'd love to be able to boot up Netflix and enjoy some tone-mapped Netflix content.

how do u map ur Pjs peak nits?


----------



## Kieran

cbatc said:


> What screen are you looking at?


Already ordered both the 5050ub and the screen innovations series 5 (motorized flush) with the Slate 1.2 ALR screen.


----------



## hungarianhc

Hopinater said:


> I agree.. I've been in the home theater game for a lot of years and unless you have a dedicated home theater then compromise is the name of the game.
> 
> I've spent most of my time focusing on the audio side of this world and speaker/subwoofer placement is very important to great sound. For instance, optimum bass requires the proper placement of the sub in the room but a lot of the time you can't place a sub where it would sound best so you have to make a compromise. Does that mean it's not worth having a subwoofer if you have to compromise? No! You'll still get decent bass and that bass will make the movie come alive.
> 
> The same is true with video. I don't have a dedicated theater so I've had to make some compromises... but I've got the light controlled pretty well and the Epson 5050 with a Silverticket grey screen makes for a pretty great picture. And at 100" it's far bigger than any TV I could afford. Any compromise was worth it.


Great points here, and I'm the same. I have the 5050UB w/ a Screen Innovations Black Diamond 115" ALR screen in my living room. I have an OLED in the play room. When the lights are on, of course the screen doesn't look as good as the OLED. It still looks pretty good, though, and the 115" screen makes it SO worth it! And then when i actually do watch movies at night, it's an epic experience and the blacks rival the OLED. It's all about compromises.

Similarly, for my living room, I needed in-wall surrounds. Oh well. It sounds epic, and most surround noises are ambient anyways.


----------



## JPBoggis

aoaaron said:


> Thank you for this mate!! How much does it cost?
> I would be VERY interested in this because I'd love to be able to boot up Netflix and enjoy some tone-mapped Netflix content.
> 
> how do u map ur Pjs peak nits?


Just the cost of one of the above HDFury devices - in my case I needed the Vertex2 for other reasons (2 separate 4K outputs + separate HDMI audio out for non-4K capable AVR) before discovering the DV hack.

MIn/max luminance and other parameters can be configured via Vertex2's web GUI - these will be used by the source for tone mapping. For the TW9400 I find 0.005/1000 min/max works best because the Epson is expecting to get HDR in that range for its own tone mapping. Setting to actual real peak nits of the projector results in a dull image. HDR slider I normally have at 5 but this will depend on your screen size/type and viewing environment.


----------



## Werewolf79

JPBoggis said:


> Just the cost of one of the above HDFury devices - in my case I needed the Vertex2 for other reasons (2 separate 4K outputs + separate HDMI audio out for non-4K capable AVR) before discovering the DV hack.
> 
> MIn/max luminance and other parameters can be configured via Vertex2's web GUI - these will be used by the source for tone mapping. For the TW9400 I find 0.005/1000 min/max works best because the Epson is expecting to get HDR in that range for its own tone mapping. Setting to actual real peak nits of the projector results in a dull image. HDR slider I normally have at 5 but this will depend on your screen size/type and viewing environment.
> 
> View attachment 3065388
> 
> 
> View attachment 3065389


This gets you dynamic tone mapping ?

Sounds like a cheap option, how well does it all work with the Epson and discs, do you need to change things on a per disc basis and is there any noticeable side effects when watching a movie ?


----------



## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> It’s a very basic and unsophisticated setup, the hooks don’t get in the way because i put in the wall at different lengths, near the screen and further away at the sides, so they are not directly above each other, it just requires you do it for four basic aspect ratios, 2.0:1, 2.20:1, 2.40:1 and the ultra wide 2.76:1 for anything inbetween i compromise a little.
> 
> I like my screen low too, I try for eye line to be middle of the picture but for the scope movies I move up and it’s a little above the middle, for 16/9 content it’s much lower screen and my eye is in the middle.
> 
> I have a dedicated room, the screen is fixed to the wall and for the speakers I have black velvet all over them to minimise any reflections, all my gear is to the back of the room or side and out of eye line sight, the screen does not cover the entire wall, it’s 92 inches wide only and speakers at left and right so there is room in my set up to have hooks left and right at different lengths from the side walls.
> 
> It would be nice to have a bigger screen but then the other aspects get worse, the 3D is dimmer, the UHD playback gets dimmer due to the filter and most importantly, there is no wall space to do it much bigger due to speaker placement, the room is not big enough to have speakers behind a screen either and that’s a whole new challenge because at the moment the screen is on a wall, that would be a major bit of work to build something for a screen on a wall and speakers behind it, so for me simple works better.


Thank you for taking the time. I must be getting old, because I still can't visualise how the hook arrangement works at varying distances up from the bottom of the screen. Would it be possible to take some pics if you get the time? A simple solution like this would suit me just fine, rater than changing to a scope screen. My screen is very low too, and I like it that way. 

Do you find yourself having to remove the masking and going to your 16:9 lens preset every time you need to see disc or maybe ATV4K menus?

I have a 135" diagonal 16:9 AT screen. It fills most of the front wall, and I have black velvet side curtains and Rosco ceiling. Seating distance is about 4m, so good for that size screen. In retrospect, I'd probably go for a smaller screen to get more brightness and move the seats closer, but that would involve moving speakers too, and I'm probably not up for all that just now. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## sddawson

fredworld said:


> One can make this as complicated or as simple as they please. I took the simple approach. I installed *"swing-bar" curtain rods* at the sides of my screen (see pics). Closed it's 1.78, open it's 2.35. For aspect ratios other than 2.35 or 1.78 I merely extend the rods to cover the side bars. Works easily and aesthetically acceptable. I removed the screw-off balls at the ends of the rods because their weight caused a sag when installing.
> 
> I have about a 1/2 dozen lens memories stored in my 5050UB to include variable aspect ratio films. By slightly reducing the image size of 2.35 films and blanking the top and bottom of the 1.78 image I get a very small black bar at the top and bottom of the 2.35 portion of the film (with side black bars that are masked by the swing curtains) and a slight cropping of the top and bottom of the 1.78 image so it fits the image height of the screen but fills the width of the programmed 2.35 area. Overall it's a very good compromise to retain most of the effect of the larger 1.78 image when the movie switches from 2.35 to 1.78. I like it.
> 
> View attachment 3065294
> View attachment 3065295


Hey, those swing rods are a great idea! Do they telescope, or do you mean you just pull the curtains along the rods to varying degrees, depending on how much you need to mask?

EDIT: Oh, and how do you handle things like disc and possibly AT4K menus, tat are presented in 16:9. Do you find yourself constantly switching between lens presets just to see all the menus?


----------



## Werewolf79

sddawson said:


> Thank you for taking the time. I must be getting old, because I still can't visualise how the hook arrangement works at varying distances up from the bottom of the screen. Would it be possible to take some pics if you get the time? A simple solution like this would suit me just fine, rater than changing to a scope screen. My screen is very low too, and I like it that way.
> 
> Do you find yourself having to remove the masking and going to your 16:9 lens preset every time you need to see disc or maybe ATV4K menus?
> 
> I have a 135" diagonal 16:9 AT screen. It fills most of the front wall, and I have black velvet side curtains and Rosco ceiling. Seating distance is about 4m, so good for that size screen. In retrospect, I'd probably go for a smaller screen to get more brightness and move the seats closer, but that would involve moving speakers too, and I'm probably not up for all that just now. Thanks again for the help.


Oh sorry, I re-read what I wrote, it sounds like I am saying I have multiple hooks in the wall for each aspect ratio, I do not, I have drilled holes in the polysytrene material, placed black Devore velvet around the material and stapled at the reverse side with thin staples, nothing too heavy and I have black velvet tape I bought that I put over those staples, the holes are two each side, top and bottom and the hooks are more of a long thin screw that just goes into the wall at the sides, varying distances is just meant to refer to the placement, badly worded by me, I just screw in and screw out of place, it barely takes a minute to do, there are others on the forum who have done this and that’s where I got the idea.


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## JPBoggis

Werewolf79 said:


> This gets you dynamic tone mapping ?
> 
> Sounds like a cheap option, how well does it all work with the Epson and discs, do you need to change things on a per disc basis and is there any noticeable side effects when watching a movie ?


Unlike static HDR10, Dolby Vision uses dynamic metadata which is mapped by the source (Or TV in case of DV capable TV) to the capabilities of your display using the above parameters. It also tends to be very consistent due to the standards set by Dolby when mastering, so I rarely need to adjust from one movie to the next. With some sources it's also possible to convert SDR and HDR10 to DV, but there's not really much benefit doing this besides convenience.

I mainly use streaming services so I can't comment on UHD discs (I don't have a UHD player yet, but do plan to get one at some point.) Only discs with a Dolby Vision version of the movie will benefit.


----------



## fredworld

sddawson said:


> Hey, those swing rods are a great idea! Do they telescope, or do you mean you just pull the curtains along the rods to varying degrees, depending on how much you need to mask?
> 
> EDIT: Oh, and how do you handle things like disc and possibly AT4K menus, tat are presented in 16:9. Do you find yourself constantly switching between lens presets just to see all the menus?


Thanks. The bars do telescope, easily. They each have a locking screw but I keep them loose for ease. For 1.33 films I telescope the bar and extend the curtain across the bar. In answer to your EDIT, I boot up the menu in 16:9, then select play and before the movie logos emerge I shift to the desired aspect ratio. Otherwise, the menu spills off the screen but are still readable on my black wall, unless I select a Lens Memory with blanking engaged which crops the menu page. Some discs' menus are in the more centralized "safe area" so the blanking wouldn't matter. I hope this helps.


----------



## Werewolf79

JPBoggis said:


> Unlike static HDR10, Dolby Vision uses dynamic metadata which is mapped by the source (Or TV in case of DV capable TV) to the capabilities of your display using the above parameters. It also tends to be very consistent due to the standards set by Dolby when mastering, so I rarely need to adjust from one movie to the next. With some sources it's also possible to convert SDR and HDR10 to DV, but there's not really much benefit doing this besides convenience.
> 
> I mainly use streaming services so I can't comment on UHD discs (I don't have a UHD player yet, but do plan to get one at some point.) Only discs with a Dolby Vision version of the movie will benefit.


Thanks, I will check my disc collection, not sure how many are Dolby, I know I have some but if most are HDR10 then it won’t work well I guess.


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## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> Oh sorry, I re-read what I wrote, it sounds like I am saying I have multiple hooks in the wall for each aspect ratio, I do not, I have drilled holes in the polysytrene material, placed black Devore velvet around the material and stapled at the reverse side with thin staples, nothing too heavy and I have black velvet tape I bought that I put over those staples, the holes are two each side, top and bottom and the hooks are more of a long thin screw that just goes into the wall at the sides, varying distances is just meant to refer to the placement, badly worded by me, I just screw in and screw out of place, it barely takes a minute to do, there are others on the forum who have done this and that’s where I got the idea.


Hmmm, I _think_ I’ve got it now! So you have ”screws” that go through the holes in the masking panel, and they go into holes in the wall at varying heights, so you have multiple wall holes, vertically above each other. Is that right? Don’t you have trouble finding the holes the screws go into? And how do you handle the fact that the screen surround presumably sticks out quite a way from the wall surface? Thanks for persevering.


----------



## sddawson

fredworld said:


> Thanks. The bars do telescope, easily. They each have a locking screw but I keep them loose for ease. For 1.33 films I telescope the bar and extend the curtain across the bar. In answer to your EDIT, I boot up the menu in 16:9, then select play and before the movie logos emerge I shift to the desired aspect ratio. Otherwise, the menu spills off the screen but are still readable on my black wall, unless I select a Lens Memory with blanking engaged which crops the menu page. Some discs' menus are in the more centralized "safe area" so the blanking wouldn't matter. I hope this helps.


Helps a lot. Thank you. Now I just have to decide whether to go scope or stick with 16:9 and mask!


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## Werewolf79

sddawson said:


> Hmmm, I _think_ I’ve got it now! So you have ”screws” that go through the holes in the masking panel, and they go into holes in the wall at varying heights, so you have multiple wall holes, vertically above each other. Is that right? Don’t you have trouble finding the holes the screws go into? And how do you handle the fact that the screen surround presumably sticks out quite a way from the wall surface? Thanks for persevering.


I switch the lights on to do it, it’s not that massive or I should say thick, it’s reasonably thin and with black velvet it does not cause issues, it masks extremely well, a forum search should find you lots of information.


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## sddawson

Werewolf79 said:


> I switch the lights on to do it, it’s not that massive or I should say thick, it’s reasonably thin and with black velvet it does not cause issues, it masks extremely well, a forum search should find you lots of information.


Great, thanks for all the pointers. Bit of thinking to do now...


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## Terence

sddawson said:


> So taking the ATV4K example, you'd start in 16:9 to see all the menus (with bars at the sides). Then if you play a scope movie using the ATV4K, you use a lens memory so it takes up the whole scope screen. Then when you go back to the ATV4K menu, you have to use a 16:9 lens memory again so you can see it all. Is that what you tend to do? Thanks for the info.


Exactly! I do the same with my Panasonic UB820 as well. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## sddawson

Terence said:


> Exactly! I do the same with my Panasonic UB820 as well.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Great. A bit slow doing those changes with this PJ, but not the end of the world! Would you mind telling me what aspect ratios you cater for? So far, I’ve come up with:

1.78:1 (16:9)
2.0:1 mainly for Netflix I think
2.39:1 for normal widescreen movies (or should that be 2.35 or 2.40, always confused by which is best for this one)
2.76:1 for ultra wide movies

Then Apple TV+ streaming seems to sometimes use something different again. Any idea what they use?


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## Luminated67

gunlife said:


> Yes in a dark room with a screen that size you would have a much easier time with brightness. For SDR and a new bulb you would be stopping the IRIS way down to get reference quality. I am fortunate enough to have a treated room now. But it is a smaller room. So I only have a small 100" screen. When my 5050 bulb was new I had to stop the iris all the way down on natural preset and still it was too bright (SDR of course). I also have no problem running HDR in Digital Cinema preset and medium lamp. Literally my wife was bitching about some HDR highlights being to bright on the Mandalorian (our eyes where seeing stars). When the room is pitch black, with triple black velvet everywhere and tape over the lights on the receiver and player your eyes adjust to that darkness and I personally don't want anything any brighter in my small theater than what I am getting. I understand that a 120" or 150" would be a different ball game.
> 
> But I ran a 100" ALR before very similar to you setup there and loved it for sure!


100” white screen was what I use to own too and in a similar type room.










I wanted the switch to CinemaScope and since I was making the change I decided to swap to the grey. You can’t imagine to difference it makes even in a treated room, even when I watch a 16:9 program where the borders are on the sides you have real trouble seeing them now.

If I didn’t have a dedicated room I wouldn’t hesitate and get an ALR screen.


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## Pretorian

Personally I love watching demos of other peoples home theaters. Even though it is not the same experience as being there it still gives you a feeling. And maybe some inspiration.
Here are a couple of clips I did.


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## diablo900t

JPBoggis said:


> DTM is also possible with the HDFury Vertex2/Diva/Arcana Dolby Vision LLDV 'hack' with a suitable source device such as Apple TV 4K, Amazon Fire 4K, some UHD disc players, etc. This allows Dolby Vision content to be enjoyed on any HDR10 capable TV or projector.
> 
> I've been using this since earlier this year with my Epson TW9400 and I find it makes a significant difference over HDR10 (Netflix, iTunes, Apple TV+ & Disney+ all have plenty of Dolby Vision content.)


Does this also improve HDR10 content? Assuming no, since its static and no dynamic metadata like Dolby Vision.


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## aoaaron

diablo900t said:


> Does this also improve HDR10 content? Assuming no, since its static and no dynamic metadata like Dolby Vision.


Great question. I was wondering this too.


----------



## plain fan

I read the last few pages of the linked thread and it sounds like the content path is: HDFury... for streaming content and a MadVR PC for ripped discs. Which is the setup that one of the guys mentioned in a post.


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## Kieran

JPBoggis said:


> I mainly use streaming services so I can't comment on UHD discs (I don't have a UHD player yet, but do plan to get one at some point.) Only discs with a Dolby Vision version of the movie will benefit.


Thanks for sharing this. I have a renewed excitement for my forthcoming projector adventure! 
What streaming device(s) do you use for this setup? I'm not an Apple guy, so hoping an Android TV (e.g. NV Shield) box exists that works well with this (or Xbox).
Looking at the big thread you linked, it's not clear to me why everyone seems to recommend the Sony UDG BluRay players. Is this required, or are there other models that will work? Do you have an understanding of what a uhd bluray player needs to be able to do for this to work? I'm wondering would the Panasonic 820, or the Xbox Series X work, which are both items I'm considering for my system.


----------



## JPBoggis

diablo900t said:


> Does this also improve HDR10 content? Assuming no, since its static and no dynamic metadata like Dolby Vision.


I don't think it would make much (if any) difference to HDR10 because it does not have dynamic metadata. You would also need a source that's capable of converting HDR10 to DV such as Apple TV 4K, Amazon Fire Cube 4K and some UHD disc players.



Kieran said:


> Thanks for sharing this. I have a renewed excitement for my forthcoming projector adventure!
> What streaming device(s) do you use for this setup? I'm not an Apple guy, so hoping an Android TV (e.g. NV Shield) box exists that works well with this (or Xbox).
> Looking at the big thread you linked, it's not clear to me why everyone seems to recommend the Sony UDG BluRay players. Is this required, or are there other models that will work? Do you have an understanding of what a uhd bluray player needs to be able to do for this to work? I'm wondering would the Panasonic 820, or the Xbox Series X work, which are both items I'm considering for my system.


I currently use Apple TV 4K and Amazon Fire Cube 4K which both work very well - I think the latest NV Shield will work too, but I don't have any experience of it.

The Sony UHD disc players recommended in the thread are able to convert HDR10 to Dolby Vision as well as support LLDV (Low Latency (player-side) Dolby Vision). I think the Panasonic 820 is only able to output LLDV for discs with Dolby Vision (but does have it's own very good tone mapping for HDR10) - a list of some of the compatible devices can be found on HDFury's website.


----------



## fredworld

fredworld said:


> I can't measure the thread pitch but my digital caliper reads 2.5mm for the shaft width of the screws for the lamp that must be exchanged. I'm awaiting an email from MyProjectorLamps for a return label. I hope this helps.
> 
> ps: it takes 5 minutes to replace the lamp in the projector. Even if the screws fit, it's advisable to be sure the lamp works. I wouldn't wait until you need to replace the original lamp. Alternatively, it's probably best to leave the replacement lamp in the projector and keep the original as a spare as another poster advised earlier in this thread.


Replacement lamp arrived. Same issue. Screws are 2.5mm. The screws on the lamp presently in the projector are 2.25mm. Reply from MyProjectorLamps said they will set my order up for a return for refund and pull the lamps from the website to further investigate.


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> Replacement lamp arrived. Same issue. Screws are 2.5mm. The screws on the lamp presently in the projector are 2.25mm. Reply from MyProjectorLamps said they will set my order up for a return for refund and pull the lamps from the website to further investigate.


... and you're not able to take the 2.25mm screws out of old lamp and use them in the new lamp?


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## Kieran

Hot damn... this HDFury thing has me really excited. I think it will save me about $1000 too, if I'm reading this right.
The main reason I need to buy a new AVR to go with my new Epson is the 4K/HDR hdmi compatibility (Yamaha RX-A2020 is pre-4k). While I'd _like_ to get a new receiver to support Atmos, I could put it off a lot longer if I had a solution to the 4K hdmi issue, which the HDFury seems to be. Also, it solves my long HDMI run problem, since the Maestro is a HDBaseT (hdmi over ethernet) transmitter/receiver.
Am I missing something here? Feels like win/win/win (and wait for Atmos).


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## fredworld

Kieran said:


> ... and you're not able to take the 2.25mm screws out of old lamp and use them in the new lamp?


Probably am able, but it's not my place to fix what I already paid for to be right.


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## fredworld

There are a number of posts on this forum regarding dust entering the projector and settling on the LCD panels causing "blobs" to appear in dark images (search for "dust", there are plenty of posts). Apparently, this is due to the semi-sealed design of the lens assembly which requires air-flow across the LCD panels to prevent overheating.

I can now add my 5050UB to the list of dust trespassers. Epson has offered to replace my projector with a refurbished unit or repair it. The only available repair procedure in the USA is to remove and replace the whole optical engine (actual repair of the optical engine requires sending it over seas to be rebuilt).

The projector is in warranty until July 2021. Epson highly recommends that I have the projector repaired or exchanged by that time. An out of warranty repair best guess is around $1200.00.

Epson tells me that replacement of the optical engine is usually a 10 day turnaround. If I accept a refurbished replacement, they can send me the unit and hold my charge card information until I return my unit, so in essence I'd have no down time.

To those of you that have accepted a refurbished unit under a warranty issue, how has that fared for you? I'm asking because except for the distraction of the dust blobs, my projector works very well. I'm concerned that I might end up with a refurbed unit that may, otherwise, turn out as less reliable and I'd have to deal with larger, more complex issues either before the warranty expires or just after expiration. Epson, BTW, has been very patient with my questions and agreed that I can wait until after the New Year to proceed, which is my preference, so as to avoid any delivery issues with Holiday shipments being dropped kicked across the country.
Photos attached of the in-focus offenders.
Thanks for any input.


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## Kieran

Looks like Dusty McGlobbins came for a visit! Bummer... hope it gets resolved quickly. I'm not sure which way I'd go. Essentially if they repair yours it becomes a "refurb" too... I think it's six-of-one/half-dozen-of-the-other...
How big are those dust globs in reality, on your screen (and how big is your screen)?


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## TTFORUM

Pretorian said:


> Personally I love watching demos of other peoples home theaters. Even though it is not the same experience as being there it still gives you a feeling. And maybe some inspiration.
> Here are a couple of clips I did.


Love what you did with the motorized blackout shades!


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## Terence

sddawson said:


> Great. A bit slow doing those changes with this PJ, but not the end of the world! Would you mind telling me what aspect ratios you cater for? So far, I’ve come up with:
> 
> 1.78:1 (16:9)
> 2.0:1 mainly for Netflix I think
> 2.39:1 for normal widescreen movies (or should that be 2.35 or 2.40, always confused by which is best for this one)
> 2.76:1 for ultra wide movies
> 
> Then Apple TV+ streaming seems to sometimes use something different again. Any idea what they use?


The two I watch the most are 2.39:1 and 16:9, but I’m prepared for whatever aspects pop up with saved lens positions. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DJK149

Just wired up my Epson 5050UB this evening, still adjusting. Decent upgrade from the Optima HD27. Any advice appreciated. 120" screen, sony str-dn850 in the interim till picking up a denon x3700h. Controlled lighting media room slowly coming together.


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## fredworld

Kieran said:


> Looks like Dusty McGlobbins came for a visit! Bummer... hope it gets resolved quickly. I'm not sure which way I'd go. Essentially if they repair yours it becomes a "refurb" too... I think it's six-of-one/half-dozen-of-the-other...
> How big are those dust globs in reality, on your screen (and how big is your screen)?


My screen size is 40"x94" (see my signature for equipment line-up). The *"McGlobbins' "* size range from 2"- 4" depending on whether I'm watching 1.78 or 2.35. Only noticeable during fade-outs and end credit scrolls and some dark scenes. Honestly, it's tolerable... as long as it doesn't get much worse. And yes, my unit would then, essentially, become a refurb if I get it repaired... but... it's my refurb, not someone else's who had an unknown issue that might or might not recur. The warranty on a refurb expires same as my unit so the refurb could actually be older than mine. There are references in posts about failed refurbs that were warranty replacements. My tendency is to go with the optical engine repair or, as a distant second, to just live with it as is, or as a very distant third choice to just accept a refurbished unit. Epson won't reveal what the repair issues were on the refurbs. I'm presuming it could be dust globs, failed lens motors, power supply, or some other hardware failure. That's why I'd like to know how other owners have fared with refurbs as replacements. Any input is very much appreciated.


----------



## aoaaron

Just to follow on from conversation I think we had earlier on this thread, here is another example of a game where SDR should be picked instead of HDR. I get HDR 'looks nicer'.. but its just not right. It just looks nicer because its slightly over brightened and over exposed most of the time. 
As I sad before, I think without DTM/HGIG, HDR is a real real guessing game, and as Vincent has shown here even WITH them, its not ideal. 
What users see with the eyes might be PLEASING in HDR gaming but i 95% of the time think its a placebo effect of being happy because the image is a bright brighter and u see a HDR badge. The actual quality of image, perceived contrast, deep blacks, accurate colours.. are not going to be there as common as SDr versions for a lot of games, then take into account mapping to ur displays capability which epson can't do easily.


----------



## Kieran

aoaaron said:


> Just to follow on from conversation I think we had earlier on this thread, here is another example of a game where SDR should be picked instead of HDR. I get HDR 'looks nicer'.. but its just not right. It just looks nicer because its slightly over brightened and over exposed most of the time.
> As I sad before, I think without DTM/HGIG, HDR is a real real guessing game, and as Vincent has shown here even WITH them, its not ideal.
> What users see with the eyes might be PLEASING in HDR gaming but i 95% of the time think its a placebo effect of being happy because the image is a bright brighter and u see a HDR badge. The actual quality of image, perceived contrast, deep blacks, accurate colours.. are not going to be there as common as SDr versions for a lot of games, then take into account mapping to ur displays capability which epson can't do easily.


Have you decided to pick up an hdfury to try with your gaming and streaming? 
Which gaming box do you use? Xbox, PS, it is it your htpc?


----------



## aoaaron

Kieran said:


> Have you decided to pick up an hdfury to try with your gaming and streaming?
> Which gaming box do you use? Xbox, PS, it is it your htpc?


Hi mate.

I have a PS4 Pro (waiting for PS5 in black) XBOX and HTPC (RTX 2080, waiting for 3080TI) & Valve Index.

Nope. I think HD Fury as far as I researched didn't have dynamic tone mapping, only for HDR10+ and DV content so I'm not sure of the benefits. If someone can clarify this, would be great for other users but I don't see evidence its HDR tone mapping is going to come anywhere near close to MADVR for HDR10 content (which is majority of my content tbh). 

I just think, given the state of HDR for video games, its just easier to play the SDR versions. Even on an OLED at times. I don't want to go into the wormhole of doing too much tech and not enjoying the material. We have perfectly mastered SDR games. HDR games.. I will leave to the tinkerer's to perfect. I did my share with MADVR lol.

Of course you will have people whos wear the HDR looks amazing and works amazingly.. until someone who knows what they're doing like vincent releases a video showing its broken so I give up trying to explain it too much to people. They see the HDR badge come on and a brighter image than before and are happy.. Why should I take that away them from? :/

Also in all honesty, I think video-games wise I might end up just getting a HDMI 2.1 Sony OLED 77'' next year and then a JVC NX7 MII in November/December; and then thats me done with buying display technologies for the next 5 years.

I tried the 77'' GX/CX models this year and returning them as honestly I love them but hate them in so many other ways. Cyberpunk reviews don't seem that good either so I'm happy to wait for the DLC to get released first and then play the GOTY edition next year. Other videos game like Nier, Trails in the Sky, Dragon Age (I have a big backlog) etc. I find look lovely on the Epson


----------



## James Barber 2

Does anyone have any calibration settings and while here, some madvr settings for the 6050UB?

Thanks so so much


----------



## biglen

James Barber 2 said:


> Does anyone have any calibration settings and while here, some madvr settings for the 6050UB?
> 
> Thanks so so much


The odds of someone else's settings working for you, are slim and none. There are so many different variables between everyone's setup.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## James Barber 2

Thanks


----------



## fredworld

tsharp said:


> Latest victim of the dust blob. It's just something that can't be unseen! Called Epson and refurbished unit is on its way
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How's your refurb unit doing? Any comments you can share?


----------



## aoaaron

James Barber 2 said:


> View attachment 3066008
> 
> 
> Thanks



Literally 90% of people who read this post who are first starting out in home theatre. We've all done it.


----------



## Kieran

aoaaron said:


> Hi mate.
> 
> I have a PS4 Pro (waiting for PS5 in black) XBOX and HTPC (RTX 2080, waiting for 3080TI) & Valve Index.
> 
> Nope. I think HD Fury as far as I researched didn't have dynamic tone mapping, only for HDR10+ and DV content so I'm not sure of the benefits. If someone can clarify this, would be great for other users but I don't see evidence its HDR tone mapping is going to come anywhere near close to MADVR for HDR10 content (which is majority of my content tbh).
> 
> I just think, given the state of HDR for video games, its just easier to play the SDR versions. Even on an OLED at times. I don't want to go into the wormhole of doing too much tech and not enjoying the material. We have perfectly mastered SDR games. HDR games.. I will leave to the tinkerer's to perfect. I did my share with MADVR lol.


It does not do DTM in the way MadVR does it. It does "D"TM only insofar as it is already encoded in the Dolby Vision (DV) metadata for a DV video/film/game/whatever. DV is supposed to contain frame-by-frame metadata for tone mapping (thus "dynamic" in that it is frame by frame specific tone mapping, but not calculated custom on the fly). The HDFury devices just pass that DV meta data on to the projector. So it does not analyze the source frame by frame and come up with optimized tone mapping for each frame, like MadVR does. But it's better than HDR10 which AIUI, is a static tone map for the whole [movie/video/whatever]. 

To me, where I thought you may be interested, is that it can pass DV tone mapping for DV sources that aren't UHD ripped blurays. With your MadVR htpc, the only thing you get DTM on is movies, right? MadVR doesn't do anything for you for sources that aren't "locally stored" on your htpc that runs madvr, right? So for Netflix, or Prime, or whatever streaming you watch in Europe, or for anything from your game boxes, you don't get MadVR's benefits. But with an HDFury in the path of those you could get some benefit from the Dolby Vision tone mapping, while still using MadVR for your movies via the htpc. I think it only benefits if you have sources that are available as both HDR10 and DV, but can't go through your MadVR processor.

Maybe I'm missing something, this is just what I've been able to understand over the past few days of reading up on this; not claiming expertise at all.


----------



## aoaaron

Kieran said:


> It does not do DTM in the way MadVR does it. It does "D"TM only insofar as it is already encoded in the Dolby Vision (DV) metadata for a DV video/film/game/whatever. DV is supposed to contain frame-by-frame metadata for tone mapping (thus "dynamic" in that it is frame by frame specific tone mapping, but not calculated custom on the fly). The HDFury devices just pass that DV meta data on to the projector. So it does not analyze the source frame by frame and come up with optimized tone mapping for each frame, like MadVR does. But it's better than HDR10 which AIUI, is a static tone map for the whole [movie/video/whatever].
> 
> To me, where I thought you may be interested, is that it can pass DV tone mapping for DV sources that aren't UHD ripped blurays. With your MadVR htpc, the only thing you get DTM on is movies, right? MadVR doesn't do anything for you for sources that aren't "locally stored" on your htpc that runs madvr, right? So for Netflix, or Prime, or whatever streaming you watch in Europe, or for anything from your game boxes, you don't get MadVR's benefits. But with an HDFury in the path of those you could get some benefit from the Dolby Vision tone mapping, while still using MadVR for your movies via the htpc. I think it only benefits if you have sources that are available as both HDR10 and DV, but can't go through your MadVR processor.
> 
> Maybe I'm missing something, this is just what I've been able to understand over the past few days of reading up on this; not claiming expertise at all.


I don't watch much Netflix/Prime. Mainly locally stored content so sadly the HD Fury isn't worth it to me for just Dolby Vision content. I'm generally not a fan of DV too due to the flickering blacks, floating blacks, raised blacks. I haven't encountered a device yet which can play it back flawlessly and I'm going to assume that projectors hide the flaws a bit better.

As far as I know, the HDRFury only benefits Dolby Vision content. Not enough value for me to bother sadly  as Dolby Vision content is probably 1-3% of my viewing. If it had DTM for every source, I'd be all over it.

I do wonder how HDFury with Dolby Vision compares to HDR10 DTM by MADVR for the same source (aka a ripped Bluray). I'll take a wild guess MADVR wins given what its powered by.

Really interesting upgrade if most of your content is streamed Dolby Vision stuff.  You will love it.


----------



## djsvetljo

Hello,
I have a brand new Epson ProCinema 6050UB that has the following issue:
Lens memory doesn't restore image in the same position, it is off by 1" in some cases and it varies with every recall. Super annoying. Is this another poorly engineered function *but well marketed* in parallel with almost everything else 21st century offers or* is my unit defective?* I am worried I will call Epson and I will get "that's how they are" or "we will send you a refurbished" answer.


More details:
106" screen, 11ft to lens (so you can get an idea of how much of shift 1" is).
I save to slot 1 my perfect 16:9 screen. Slot 2 has a different zoom/position memory. Going back between slot 2 and slot 1 the image is never in the same position as saved. Sometimes it is lower with 1", sometimes is to the left 1" and anything in between. If the offset was always the same, I could built it into the memory but it is variable. Very disappointed as I was going to build a masking system for 2.39/1.85:1 and 16:9 was hoping it will be a one button push (so my wife stays around, you know).


----------



## Archaea

Move it 15 clicks out of the exact way you want in one direction. Save it. Then move it back ONLY one direction to the position you want. Save it again over the top of the first save. That ought to fix it. You cannot do small adjustments both ways or it won't save it correctly. There is some minimum amount of change it has to record in order to save it correctly -- something like 10 to 15 clicks so just do 15 to be safe, and ONLY move the direction one way before saving to save correctly. Inconvenient, I recognize, but it worked for me after I read this advice from someone else for my 5040UB.


----------



## djsvetljo

Archaea said:


> Move it 15 clicks out of the way you want. Save it. Then move it ONLY one way to the position you want. Save it again. That ought to fix it. You cannot do small adjustments both ways and save it. It has to be something more like 10 to 15 and ONLY one way to save correctly.


The second memory was not close at all to the first one. It was zoomed in, and shifted in both panes. I will try it again when I power it on tonight but I am pretty sure what I have reported is what it is in my unit.

What model do you have and are you suggesting that yours works good?


----------



## fredworld

Archaea said:


> Move it 15 clicks out of the exact way you want in one direction. Save it. Then move it back ONLY one direction to the position you want. Save it again over the top of the first save. That ought to fix it. You cannot do small adjustments both ways or it won't save it correctly. There is some minimum amount of change it has to record in order to save it correctly -- something like 10 to 15 clicks so just do 15 to be safe, and ONLY move the direction one way before saving to save correctly. Inconvenient, I recognize, but it worked for me after I read this advice from someone else for my 5040UB.


Agreed. Works for me. I have 6 lens memories, they are all spot on repeatable after following the above advice.


----------



## djsvetljo

fredworld said:


> Agreed. Works for me. I have 6 lens memories, they are all spot on repeatable after following the above advice.


Interesting. So this is kind of a known glitch with these models?


----------



## fredworld

djsvetljo said:


> Interesting. So this is kind of a known glitch with these models?


I think it's just how motors with memories designed to a price point work. I have a similar issue with my telescope's motorized mounts. Never move backwards to center an object in the eyepiece when aligning unless it's to make the last movements to center as forward movement.


----------



## fredworld

djsvetljo said:


> Interesting. So this is kind of a known glitch with these models?


I think it's just how motors with memories designed to a price point work. I have a similar issue with my telescope's motorized mounts. Never move backwards to center an object in the eyepiece when aligning unless it's to make the last movements to center as forward movement.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Today I tried to test my new lamp that I purchased on September 9, 2020. Surprisingly, the module's retaining screws are oversized and won't catch to the projector's lamp socket chassis' threads. MyProjectorLamps told me they will replace the lamp. The photo shows the difference in size. Moral: check your lamps ASAP after purchase.
> View attachment 3063708


Did they ever send you a replacement, and if so, did it fit properly?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Did they ever send you a replacement, and if so, did it fit properly?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks for asking. See post* #9443.*


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Thanks for asking. See post* #9443.*


Ah, gotcha. So have you found a place that sells the correct one, other than Epson's website?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Ah, gotcha. So have you found a place that sells the correct one, other than Epson's website?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


While awaiting the refund I'm considering *Jaspertronics*. They have the original Epson lamps for $220 which are $110 less than from *Epson* but almost $90 more than *MyProjectorLamps* but come with a 1 year warranty vs 6 months from MyProjectorLamps (MPL). Kinda disappointing because I've had excellent service and results from MPL for the many years that I had a Sharp XV12000 DLP 720P projector having replaced that projector lamp at least 4x with no issues.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> While awaiting the refund I'm considering *Jaspertronics*. They have the original Epson lamps for $220 which are $110 less than from *Epson* but almost $90 more than *MyProjectorLamps* but come with a 1 year warranty vs 6 months from MyProjectorLamps (MPL). Kinda disappointing because I've had excellent service and results from MPL for the many years that I had a Sharp XV12000 DLP 720P projector having replaced that projector lamp at least 4x with no issues.


Know anything about this place?






Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projector Lamps | Home Cinema 5050UB Bulbs | Pureland Supply


Pureland Supply stocks Home Cinema 5050UB Epson Projector Lamps with genuine original Osram bulb inside. Price: $134.60, Quantity in stock:170, Projector Model: Home Cinema 5050UB, Lamp Id: V13H010L89. Free ground shipping and 180 day warranty.



www.purelandsupply.com





Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Cacitems4sale

All, I recently purchased a 6050 and intermittently when I start the projector there left half of the picture is normal color and right half is green color. It usually works itself out within about 2 minutes. Is this normal, a setting I can adjust, or is this an issue with the projector? Any help would be great. Thanks


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Cacitems4sale said:


> All, I recently purchased a 6050 and intermittently when I start the projector there left half of the picture is normal color and right half is green color. It usually works itself out within about 2 minutes. Is this normal, a setting I can adjust, or is this an issue with the projector? Any help would be great. Thanks


I have the same issue, but it goes away when lamp warms up.. Not sure its a problem or an issue when problem goes away almost immediately after boot


----------



## djsvetljo

Cacitems4sale said:


> All, I recently purchased a 6050 and intermittently when I start the projector there left half of the picture is normal color and right half is green color. It usually works itself out within about 2 minutes. Is this normal, a setting I can adjust, or is this an issue with the projector? Any help would be great. Thanks


10 hrs on 6050 here. No such issue yet.


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Know anything about this place?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projector Lamps | Home Cinema 5050UB Bulbs | Pureland Supply
> 
> 
> Pureland Supply stocks Home Cinema 5050UB Epson Projector Lamps with genuine original Osram bulb inside. Price: $134.60, Quantity in stock:170, Projector Model: Home Cinema 5050UB, Lamp Id: V13H010L89. Free ground shipping and 180 day warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> www.purelandsupply.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


The housings are aftermarket, the bulb is the same as Epson uses from their sources such as Osram or Ushio, same as MyProjectorLamps does, thus the lower price.


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I have the same issue, but it goes away when lamp warms up.. Not sure its a problem or an issue when problem goes away almost immediately after boot


Never had that in my 5050 after 18 months of ownership. I'd ask Epson about it.


----------



## Gjlaplante

platinum00 said:


> For those that have calibrated HDR, what slider setting do you use. I always watched on 6 so calibrated to that but now that I think about it the default might be better?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Mine calibrated on a 1.1 gain screen followed the EOTF in Digital Cinema at 9. Bright Cinema at 10. That was using a screen multiplier to show 600 NITS.


----------



## rekbones

Cacitems4sale said:


> All, I recently purchased a 6050 and intermittently when I start the projector there left half of the picture is normal color and right half is green color. It usually works itself out within about 2 minutes. Is this normal, a setting I can adjust, or is this an issue with the projector? Any help would be great. Thanks


Make sure the projector powers up last in the HDMI chain. Weird handshake issues can cause symptoms like you describe.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> The housings are aftermarket, the bulb is the same as Epson uses from their sources such as Osram or Ushio, same as MyProjectorLamps does, thus the lower price.


So would that one have the same issues you had with the screws?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> So would that one have the same issues you had with the screws?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I would not expect that since it's presumably the same that Epson provides based on the warranty, price and Epson packaging.


----------



## lidocaineus

fredworld said:


> green





Cacitems4sale said:


> All, I recently purchased a 6050 and intermittently when I start the projector there left half of the picture is normal color and right half is green color. It usually works itself out within about 2 minutes. Is this normal, a setting I can adjust, or is this an issue with the projector? Any help would be great. Thanks


I've seen various 5050UBs and a 6050UB do different variations on this. Some will start with a green tint for about 30 seconds and it quickly fades away, some will have a section of the screen green tinted, etc. It never stays for more than 30 seconds. It's just the panels warming up at different rates and it varies by ambient temperature and altitude and can be made worse when one of the color modes with the filter is engaged. If it lasts beyond a minute I'd say it might be worth returning.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

lidocaineus said:


> I've seen various 5050UBs and a 6050UB do different variations on this. Some will start with a green tint for about 30 seconds and it quickly fades away, some will have a section of the screen green tinted, etc. It never stays for more than 30 seconds. It's just the panels warming up at different rates and it varies by ambient temperature and altitude and can be made worse when one of the color modes with the filter is engaged. If it lasts beyond a minute I'd say it might be worth returning.


Thanks for the thoughts and makes me feel better. Regardless, I’ll give epson a call tomorrow and see what they say.


----------



## biglen

Cacitems4sale said:


> All, I recently purchased a 6050 and intermittently when I start the projector there left half of the picture is normal color and right half is green color. It usually works itself out within about 2 minutes. Is this normal, a setting I can adjust, or is this an issue with the projector? Any help would be great. Thanks


It happens to me once in awhile, but only when using my Shield. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

biglen said:


> It happens to me once in awhile, but only when using my Shield.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Same here it does not do it with my panny 420 just the sheild running through a denon 6700

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Brandon Kozuszek said:


> Same here it does not do it with my panny 420 just the sheild running through a denon 6700
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I think it's the Shield, not the projector. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> I think it's the Shield, not the projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Well, today I paid attention to booting up the projector. Looks like if the Roku input is the boot up input then the screen comes on with a green tint then full color kicks in, but it's not _half_ green as the poster *here* stated.


----------



## Gjlaplante

Werewolf79 said:


> I have measured, I am on almost 400 hours now and I have lost approx just 1ft lambert of brightness, I imagine it will start to dim more soon, I like 18ft lambert to 20ft lambert brightness and have calibrated for Eco and Medium for normal blu ray and HD content but I also bought an NDx2 filter and have a medium lamp calibration for that which gives me 20ft lambert with the manual iris full open.
> 
> My i1 Pro D3 meter does not appear to measure black levels below 0.0028 ft lambert, might just be my meter, sound and vision claim 0.001 ft lambert blacks with the dynamic iris on, I think that’s probably right, I have never noticed issues running the iris except for some film titles such as The Things opening titles which pump, actual content seems fine.
> 
> Someone mentioned the bulb prices, at 4% of the projector cost direct from the manufacturer, yes I think that’s cheap AF too, but I am using this projector 10 hours a day so I will probably keep an eye on how it dims.


What exactly does an NDx2 filter do and how do you attach it?


----------



## SteveS78

Is anyone available to assist on alignment of my new 5050 and screen? Having a heck of a time with it. I have the keystone at zero, and am ONLY utilizing optical lense shift. Projector is only off center by 5 to 6 inches to the left. Not sure exactly how much the installer had to use vertical lense shift, but either way it wouldn't have been much. Maybe just a few inches at most? 

At any rate, either the lense shift is causing the image to not be level with the screen or either the screen or the projector or both are physically not level? Its weird though because in using the test pattern, the image seems almost as if keystone was being used because it is almost trapezoidal (even though its at zero). The right side of the image has slightly more height than the left side, and both top and bottom on the right side are hitting the top and bottom edges of the screen (or closer to it) whereas on the left both top and bottom seem to have a little bit more screen showing. Not sure if the stupid installer did something to a setting I am not aware of on the projector? Or the screen and/or projector are not fully level? Is there any way to fix this?

I would think being apparently trapezoidal in shape, something is off with the projector?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## citsur86

Just got my Epson 5050UB installed tonight and I’ve been playing playing with it. The clarity is incredible but I find many scenes I didn’t used to find dark, pretty dark on mine. This is even in dynamic mode. Is there some other setting that brightens it up? Am I expecting too much for a 158” 2.35:1 Screen size ? Just seemed dimmer than I expected. Even in complete darkness.


----------



## SteveS78

citsur86 said:


> Just got my Epson 5050UB installed tonight and I’ve been playing playing with it. The clarity is incredible but I find many scenes I didn’t used to find dark, pretty dark on mine. This is even in dynamic mode. Is there some other setting that brightens it up? Am I expecting too much for a 158” 2.35:1 Screen size ? Just seemed dimmer than I expected. Even in complete darkness.


Are you using it within the specified throw range for your screen size?

Also could be the screen. Did you get a new screen with a lower gain? Lower gains make the image less bright.

Are you comparing the image to that of a TV image? If so, that is exactly the issue. No projector is going to be quite LED 4K in brightness. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## citsur86

SteveS78 said:


> Are you using it within the specified throw range for your screen size?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I have it zoomed in all the way but projector central noted it was good at this distance and screen size for rooms with ambient light. With my lights on the image is completely washed out. Lights out it does look great but dimmer than expected. See here. The lens is at 16’ 4” from the screen.


----------



## citsur86

SteveS78 said:


> Are you using it within the specified throw range for your screen size?
> 
> Also could be the screen. Did you get a new screen with a lower gain? Lower gains make the image less bright.
> 
> Are you comparing the image to that of a TV image? If so, that is exactly the issue. No projector is going to be quite LED 4K in brightness.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I just set the theater up now but I have had two other setups in the past. One was a 1.0 gain elite screen with an optima GT 1080 short throw and the other was a Sony 45ES onto a 100” screen. Much smaller screens and both of those were 16:9. The 158” 2.34:1 means it’s actually shooting a 16:9 at 167”

Not comparing to Tv just other projectors I’ve had.


----------



## fredworld

SteveS78 said:


> Is anyone available to assist on alignment of my new 5050 and screen? Having a heck of a time with it. I have the keystone at zero, and am ONLY utilizing optical lense shift. Projector is only off center by 5 to 6 inches to the left. Not sure exactly how much the installer had to use vertical lense shift, but either way it wouldn't have been much. Maybe just a few inches at most?
> 
> At any rate, either the lense shift is causing the image to not be level with the screen or either the screen or the projector or both are physically not level? Its weird though because in using the test pattern, the image seems almost as if keystone was being used because it is almost trapezoidal (even though its at zero). The right side of the image has slightly more height than the left side, and both top and bottom on the right side are hitting the top and bottom edges of the screen (or closer to it) whereas on the left both top and bottom seem to have a little bit more screen showing. Not sure if the stupid installer did something to a setting I am not aware of on the projector? Or the screen and/or projector are not fully level? Is there any way to fix this?
> 
> I would think being apparently trapezoidal in shape, something is off with the projector?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Sounds to me like the projector/screen combo might be set up improperly, like it's shooting the image at an angle from left to right, thus the right side would have a larger image. I suggest as follows to confirm:

Use a carpenters level to level the projector in the vertical and horizontal axis. If your projector is ceiling mounted, the area just over the lamp compartment is a good place for the level to judge vertical. For horizontal, a level should be able to straddle the "valley" behind the lens housing. Adjust the mount accordingly until level. If the projector is shelf mounted, adjust the feet or shim as needed. Then shoot up the "pattern" to see how the pattern falls on the screen. Don't worry if the image is spilling off any sides of the screen for now.

If you still have the right side looking larger, then rotate the projector slightly left to try to even out the sizing of the pattern.
Then use the lens shift and zoom as needed to center the pattern on the screen and make it symmetrical. This might turn into an iterative process, so be patient.

I'd also suggest checking to see if the screen is level by placing the level at the top of the screen or holding it against the bottom. 
I hope this helps.


----------



## rekbones

SteveS78 said:


> Is anyone available to assist on alignment of my new 5050 and screen? Having a heck of a time with it. I have the keystone at zero, and am ONLY utilizing optical lense shift. Projector is only off center by 5 to 6 inches to the left. Not sure exactly how much the installer had to use vertical lense shift, but either way it wouldn't have been much. Maybe just a few inches at most?
> 
> At any rate, either the lense shift is causing the image to not be level with the screen or either the screen or the projector or both are physically not level? Its weird though because in using the test pattern, the image seems almost as if keystone was being used because it is almost trapezoidal (even though its at zero). The right side of the image has slightly more height than the left side, and both top and bottom on the right side are hitting the top and bottom edges of the screen (or closer to it) whereas on the left both top and bottom seem to have a little bit more screen showing. Not sure if the stupid installer did something to a setting I am not aware of on the projector? Or the screen and/or projector are not fully level? Is there any way to fix this?
> 
> I would think being apparently trapezoidal in shape, something is off with the projector?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


When you have a trapezoidal shape the projector is not perpendicular to the screen. Levels are only to get it ruffed in as the chance your walls/ceiling/floors are exactly plum/level is slim. You need to rotate the projector towards the small end of the trapezoid be it the horizontal or vertical axis or a combination of both. The trick is to get the image square by rotating the projector, once it is square then use lens shift and zoom to fit it to the screen. If you have a zero edge screen with little tolerance to absorb the minor flaws in walls/ceiling construction it is much more difficult as most of us just let the velvet border absorb minor flaws.


----------



## Luminated67

SteveS78 said:


> Is anyone available to assist on alignment of my new 5050 and screen? Having a heck of a time with it. I have the keystone at zero, and am ONLY utilizing optical lense shift. Projector is only off center by 5 to 6 inches to the left. Not sure exactly how much the installer had to use vertical lense shift, but either way it wouldn't have been much. Maybe just a few inches at most?
> 
> At any rate, either the lense shift is causing the image to not be level with the screen or either the screen or the projector or both are physically not level? Its weird though because in using the test pattern, the image seems almost as if keystone was being used because it is almost trapezoidal (even though its at zero). The right side of the image has slightly more height than the left side, and both top and bottom on the right side are hitting the top and bottom edges of the screen (or closer to it) whereas on the left both top and bottom seem to have a little bit more screen showing. Not sure if the stupid installer did something to a setting I am not aware of on the projector? Or the screen and/or projector are not fully level? Is there any way to fix this?
> 
> I would think being apparently trapezoidal in shape, something is off with the projector?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


First thing you need to do is check that the projector is perfectly level both side to side and front to back, do not base this off your ceiling you will need a small spirit level for this, then you will need to check that the mount is plumb with the screen wall.... the best way to do this is with a laser measure which is what I used. Once this is done the only thing that can be off is the screen wall itself and this is quite common, this is dead easy to sort with a fixed frame mount as you can pack it out at the corners till square with the image.


----------



## SteveS78

Thanks for your replies...all three of them!

So it sounds like everyone is saying that the trapezoidal issue is nothing more than a leveling issue?

Are you saying the image that it produces when not level is indeed trapazoidal where one side IS longer than the other? If so, that is wild. You would think if it wasn't level that the image would remain uniform, but just titled uniformly. It must do something to the lense causing that distortion when not level?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

SteveS78 said:


> Thanks for your replies...all three of them!
> 
> So it sounds like everyone is saying that the trapezoidal issue is nothing more than a leveling issue?
> 
> Are you saying the image that it produces when not level is indeed trapazoidal where one side IS longer than the other? If so, that is wild. You would think if it wasn't level that the image would remain uniform, but just titled uniformly. It must do something to the lense causing that distortion when not level?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Forget the level thing as that's bad advice. The front of the lens must be exactly parallel to the screen or the projector body must be perpendicular to the screen. The level thing only works if the screen is exactly plum and square along with the wall it's attached to and that is not very likely. Rotate/pivot on its axis/yaw and pitch or what ever you what to call it is what you need to do to square the image.


----------



## SteveS78

rekbones said:


> Forget the level thing as that's bad advice. The front of the lens must be exactly parallel to the screen or the projector body must be perpendicular to the screen. The level thing only works if the screen is exactly plum and square along with the wall it's attached to and that is not very likely. Rotate/pivot on its axis/yaw and pitch or what ever you what to call it is what you need to do to square the image.


Thanks. So there is nothing with using the lense shift and being off center that would cause it to be trapezoidal in certain places on the wall as you adjust the lense shift?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

SteveS78 said:


> Thanks. So there is nothing with using the lense shift and being off center that would cause it to be trapezoidal in certain places on the wall as you adjust the lense shift?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Correct, first you need to square the image regardless where it lines up with the screen, once you have a perfectly square image don't move the projector again. Then use lens shift and zoom to align the image too the screen.


----------



## citsur86

rekbones said:


> Correct, first you need to square the image regardless where it lines up with the screen, once you have a perfectly square image don't move the projector again. Then use lens shift and zoom to align the image too the screen.


I'm currently working on this as well as I just setup my projector last night. I have some blank spaces on the top i need to get rid of by squaring it out. In my case, I may run just an inch or two short (distance-wise) of being able to fill in the whole 158" image. Contemplating options...


----------



## rekbones

citsur86 said:


> I'm currently working on this as well as I just setup my projector last night. I have some blank spaces on the top i need to get rid of by squaring it out. In my case, I may run just an inch or two short (distance-wise) of being able to fill in the whole 158" image.  Contemplating options...


Just by looking at that picture projector needs to be pitched up slightly (trapezoid is smaller at the top) and yaw needs to be shifted so the image moves left. It looks like roll may be of just a little.


----------



## Luminated67

rekbones said:


> Forget the level thing as that's bad advice. The front of the lens must be exactly parallel to the screen or the projector body must be perpendicular to the screen. The level thing only works if the screen is exactly plum and square along with the wall it's attached to and that is not very likely. Rotate/pivot on its axis/yaw and pitch or what ever you what to call it is what you need to do to square the image.


Level is the one thing you 100% require. Think about it, it’s easier to pack out a fixed frame screen than constantly tweak your pivoting your projector. With a elec roll down screen it should be parallel with the wall that you have just squared the projector mount with.

But what ever works for you best is the important thing.


----------



## rekbones

Luminated67 said:


> Level is the one thing you 100% require. Think about it, it’s easier to pack out a fixed frame screen than constantly tweak your pivoting your projector. With a elec roll down screen it should be parallel with the wall that you have just squared the projector mount with.
> 
> But what ever works for you best is the important thing.


Ok with a drop screen in theory it should be plumb so level should get the pitch correct but won't help in the slightest for yaw. But I assumed we are using a fixed screen where level just goes out the window.

EDIT: of course shimming the screen is another option but I find in practice it has a tendency to warp the screen, if it all ready isn't warped. Sometimes to get it right you need to do both.


----------



## Luminated67

rekbones said:


> Ok with a drop screen in theory it should be plumb so level should get the pitch correct but won't help in the slightest for yaw. But I assumed we are using a fixed screen where level just goes out the window.
> 
> EDIT: of course shimming the screen is another option but I find in practice it has a tendency to warp the screen, if it all ready isn't warped. Sometimes to get it right you need to do both.


I’ve a fixed frame and that’s how I know the logical way is to pack the screen because my stud wall wasn’t 100% plumb top to bottom. Doing it the way I suggested has meant my crosshair lines kiss the edges of the screen perfectly.

But I still think do whatever works best for whoever.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Circling back around on the HD Fury DV hack and if anyone has implemented this on the 5050. I'm curious to know if the difference is subtle or is there a definitive picture quality improvement with Dolby Vision material.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

fredworld said:


> Well, today I paid attention to booting up the projector. Looks like if the Roku input is the boot up input then the screen comes on with a green tint then full color kicks in, but it's not _half_ green as the poster *here* stated.


I just got off the phone with Epson. They said that the split in colors is not normal and it could be either the projector or the fiber optic HDMI that I’m using. They also asked if my firmware was up-to-date, which could be a potential reason. There are additional recommendation was to unplug the HDMI that was plugged into the projector and seeIf I am still facing the issue when I turn on the projector. As I noted, it only happens intermittently for a short period of time.


----------



## Kieran

rekbones said:


> Forget the level thing as that's bad advice.


I wouldn't say it's BAD advice... as someone said above, leveling the pj is just to get you "roughly" close to start; this assumes the screen is roughly plumb/square as well.
Key is, it's iterative, and rotating (aka tilting/pitching) the PJ along all three axes (and/or the screen) will be required.


----------



## Kieran

SteveS78 said:


> Thanks for your replies...all three of them!
> 
> So it sounds like everyone is saying that the trapezoidal issue is nothing more than a leveling issue?
> 
> Are you saying the image that it produces when not level is indeed trapazoidal where one side IS longer than the other? If so, that is wild. You would think if it wasn't level that the image would remain uniform, but just titled uniformly. It must do something to the lense causing that distortion when not level?


Assuming the pj is off ONLY along the long axis of the lens (e.g. the axis perpendicular to the lens, pointing at the screen wall) what you say would be true. Rotating the pj about the lens center axis would just rotate the image, with no keystone/trapezoid effect.
But if you rotate the pj about the transverse (left/right) axis, or the azimuth (vertical) axis, both these will cause trap/keystone effects to the projected image on a static screen/wall.


----------



## Kieran

Hawkmarket said:


> Circling back around on the HD Fury DV hack and if anyone has implemented this on the 5050. I'm curious to know if the difference is subtle or is there a definitive picture quality improvement with Dolby Vision material.


Very curious as well, as I'm debating buying an HDFury Maestro or a less expensive HDBaseT option. 

I had thought the Maestro was $429 (the price shown on their products page) but when you click into the Maestro's page to purchase, it turns out that only the receiver is $429. The transmitter + receiver kit is $899. I'm pretty angry with the misleading website, so am thinking of not giving them my money. I could probably build a basic MadVR htpc for not much more than $900. Then would just get the optical HDMI and call it done.


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> Very curious as well, as I'm debating buying an HDFury Maestro or a less expensive HDBaseT option.
> 
> I had thought the Maestro was $429 (the price shown on their products page) but when you click into the Maestro's page to purchase, it turns out that only the receiver is $429. The transmitter + receiver kit is $899. I'm pretty angry with the misleading website, so am thinking of not giving them my money. I could probably build a basic MadVR htpc for not much more than $900. Then would just get the optical HDMI and call it done.


If you have an old PC laying around, it would probably work for MadVR. You'd just need a good GPU, which would be around $350. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## SteveS78

I posted in here last week about my new 5050 having some sort of apparent defect with the bulb or something. It looks like a rising heat or smoke/steam effect in the top left corner of the screen, but only when certain images or colors are shown. The effect moves like heat or smoke/steam, etc. I was thinking it was only on static or still menu screens. But my wife and I just saw it pop up while watching a 4K YouTube video when there was a shot of mountains and the light colored sky.

I called Epson and they said to give it a few more days, and they documented it against my serial number. They will replace it if it continues. 

However, after thinking about it more, the screen we have we are returning because the AT perforations are too large and visible from seating distance. It looks like we are watching through a screened in porch. But I have also read about the moire effect with those kids of screens, which likely could be related to the hole patterns causing the screened in porch effect. Is it possible this is part of the moire effect? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> If you have an old PC laying around, it would probably work for MadVR. You'd just need a good GPU, which would be around $350.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks, I know that. I wasn't asking for MadVR pc advice 🙂


----------



## Zedekias

SteveS78 said:


> I posted in here last week about my new 5050 having some sort of apparent defect with the bulb or something. It looks like a rising heat or smoke/steam effect in the top left corner of the screen, but only when certain images or colors are shown. The effect moves like heat or smoke/steam, etc. I was thinking it was only on static or still menu screens. But my wife and I just saw it pop up while watching a 4K YouTube video when there was a shot of mountains and the light colored sky.
> 
> I called Epson and they said to give it a few more days, and they documented it against my serial number. They will replace it if it continues.
> 
> However, after thinking about it more, the screen we have we are returning because the AT perforations are too large and visible from seating distance. It looks like we are watching through a screened in porch. But I have also read about the moire effect with those kids of screens, which likely could be related to the hole patterns causing the screened in porch effect. Is it possible this is part of the moire effect?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I apologize I don't have any input on your issue. It definitely sounds possible to be related to your screen. Just curious what screen it is and how far back you sit? 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

SteveS78 said:


> I posted in here last week about my new 5050 having some sort of apparent defect with the bulb or something. It looks like a rising heat or smoke/steam effect in the top left corner of the screen, but only when certain images or colors are shown. The effect moves like heat or smoke/steam, etc. I was thinking it was only on static or still menu screens. But my wife and I just saw it pop up while watching a 4K YouTube video when there was a shot of mountains and the light colored sky.
> 
> I called Epson and they said to give it a few more days, and they documented it against my serial number. They will replace it if it continues.
> 
> However, after thinking about it more, the screen we have we are returning because the AT perforations are too large and visible from seating distance. It looks like we are watching through a screened in porch. But I have also read about the moire effect with those kids of screens, which likely could be related to the hole patterns causing the screened in porch effect. Is it possible this is part of the moire effect?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


If the issue is repeatable take a white piece of printer paper and hold in the area of the effect and see if it goes away. This will tell you if it is the screen or not.


----------



## djsvetljo

rekbones said:


> Forget the level thing as that's bad advice. The front of the lens must be exactly parallel to the screen or the projector body must be perpendicular to the screen. The level thing only works if the screen is exactly plum and square along with the wall it's attached to and that is not very likely. Rotate/pivot on its axis/yaw and pitch or what ever you what to call it is what you need to do to square the image.


^^^What he said.


----------



## citsur86

I keep reading about this "Color Filter" and that it drops light output. My only (small) gripe with the 5050UB in my completely light controlled room is that its a bit dimmer than i expected at 158" 2.35:1. Someone mentioned to me that I should make sure I don't have the color filter on. I've scoured the menus and manual and cannot for the life of me find anything called color filter. Can anyone point me in the right direction here?


----------



## SteveS78

Zedekias said:


> I apologize I don't have any input on your issue. It definitely sounds possible to be related to your screen. Just curious what screen it is and how far back you sit?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


It is the Elite Screens AR120H-ATD3 ALR acoustically transparent screen. Complete garbage screen by the way..

We sit 12 feet back.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## SteveS78

rekbones said:


> If the issue is repeatable take a white piece of printer paper and hold in the area of the effect and see if it goes away. This will tell you if it is the screen or not.


I just did that and it still shows up on the paper. So obviously the issue is with the projector. How many lamp hours should I give it before requesting that they replace it for me? The lamp hours indicator right now in the menu is showing about 25 hours...

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## Cacitems4sale

All, I'm sure many of you have updated your projector with the most recent Firmware update (1.04). I tried downloading the update to my USB last night and did not receive any notifications of it downloading to the USB. I'm using Chrome and uncertain if it's the web browser or something else causing this. I'm downloading from this URL Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US
Please advise


----------



## Luminated67

Cacitems4sale said:


> All, I'm sure many of you have updated your projector with the most recent Firmware update (1.04). I tried downloading the update to my USB last night and did not receive any notifications of it downloading to the USB. I'm using Chrome and uncertain if it's the web browser or something else causing this. I'm downloading from this URL Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US
> Please advise


I downloaded from the Epson Australian website a few months ago as they seemed to be the first to have had it. I think as long as it a jimmy joe basic USB stick you will have no problems but the more expensive ones with security protection etc don't seem to work.

Try the where I did mine, in Europe and Asian it's called the TW8400/9400 instead of 5050/6050 but they are the same machines and use the exact same firmware.






Epson Australia - Download Categories


Looking for the latest drivers and software? We provide our customers with the latest and most relevant technical information for all our products here.



tech.epson.com.au


----------



## Werewolf79

I have been trying to find wide colour content on Netflix/BBC iPlayer and Amazon Prime, it all seems to be UHD and 8 bit Rec 709 colour.

Can anyone point me to some wide colour content, tv shows and films on these services?


----------



## SteveS78

SteveS78 said:


> I just did that and it still shows up on the paper. So obviously the issue is with the projector. How many lamp hours should I give it before requesting that they replace it for me? The lamp hours indicator right now in the menu is showing about 25 hours...
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


After doing some more inspecting, there is a furnace vent about 5-7 ft from the projector right in the pathway of the image. When I close the vent it seems to stop. Would assume this is a heat only effect? In the warmer months, if cool air is coming out of there, I would assume this will not happen?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

SteveS78 said:


> After doing some more inspecting, there is a furnace vent about 5-7 ft from the projector right in the pathway of the image. When I close the vent it seems to stop. Would assume this is a heat only effect? In the warmer months, if cool air is coming out of there, I would assume this will not happen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


I would try a *vent deflector* to see if it helps, rather than having to keep the vent closed.


----------



## arnemetis

citsur86 said:


> I keep reading about this "Color Filter" and that it drops light output. My only (small) gripe with the 5050UB in my completely light controlled room is that its a bit dimmer than i expected at 158" 2.35:1. Someone mentioned to me that I should make sure I don't have the color filter on. I've scoured the menus and manual and cannot for the life of me find anything called color filter. Can anyone point me in the right direction here?


I believe it is only active on the Cinema and Digital Cinema color modes. I watch sdr content on Natural, and hdr on the Digital Cinema setting. It absolutely does reduce the light output being in place, but is better & more accurate color reproduction.


----------



## SteveS78

fredworld said:


> I would try a *vent deflector* to see if it helps, rather than having to keep the vent closed.


Thanks for the suggestion. Do you know if those things work well and truly re-direct heat enough for a scenariolike mine?

Also, I would assume in the summer months when cold air is coming out of there, the cooler air won't show up on the screen image like warm airflow does? LOL

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

SteveS78 said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. Do you know if those things work well and truly re-direct heat enough for a scenariolike mine?
> 
> Also, I would assume in the summer months when cold air is coming out of there, the cooler air won't show up on the screen image like warm airflow does? LOL
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The deflectors worked well in my house to prevent drafts from blowing onto sitting areas but I never had your issue. Cold air is heavier than hot air so the breeze might not travel as far. YMMV.


----------



## SteveS78

fredworld said:


> The deflectors worked well in my house to prevent drafts from blowing onto sitting areas but I never had your issue. Cold air is heavier than hot air so the breeze might not travel as far. YMMV.


Cold air from the vent would be visible on the projector though if it reaches that spot?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

SteveS78 said:


> Cold air from the vent would be visible on the projector though if it reaches that spot?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Unlikely, I think. Cold air sinks because it's denser than hot air. Hot air rises to ceilings, so if it's a hot air ceiling vent it accumulates faster at the ceiling, thus more slowly warming the room. So, the effect you're seeing in the upper right corner of your screen image (I presume your projector is ceiling mounted) is probably the result of an accumulation of hot air layers. Also, depending on where the return vent is located (probably closer to the floor), it could be pulling air across the front of the projector. Of course, if one wants to find another reason, consider the vents on the 5050UB. Place your hand over its vents. One vent has much cooler air than the other that blows out the hot air generated by the LCD panels. Maybe, just maybe, your furnace vent (whether cold or hot air) is pushing the projector's ejected hot air across the lens. Try the vent deflector to see if it helps. Maybe others have better suggestions. I hope this helps


----------



## citsur86

arnemetis said:


> I believe it is only active on the Cinema and Digital Cinema color modes. I watch sdr content on Natural, and hdr on the Digital Cinema setting. It absolutely does reduce the light output being in place, but is better & more accurate color reproduction.


Oh so it only shows up in the menu when in Cinema or Digital Cinema color modes?


----------



## arnemetis

citsur86 said:


> Oh so it only shows up in the menu when in Cinema or Digital Cinema color modes?


I'm not 100% sure of the menu, I can't check until after work. I do know that switching to these modes you literally hear the filter mechanically moving into place while the lamp is blanked out for a moment. Plenty of review discuss how this mode puts the filter in place, here's an example - Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Advanced Calibration - Projector Reviews


----------



## Cacitems4sale

Luminated67 said:


> I downloaded from the Epson Australian website a few months ago as they seemed to be the first to have had it. I think as long as it a jimmy joe basic USB stick you will have no problems but the more expensive ones with security protection etc don't seem to work.
> 
> Try the where I did mine, in Europe and Asian it's called the TW8400/9400 instead of 5050/6050 but they are the same machines and use the exact same firmware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Australia - Download Categories
> 
> 
> Looking for the latest drivers and software? We provide our customers with the latest and most relevant technical information for all our products here.
> 
> 
> 
> tech.epson.com.au


Ok I finally got the link to work and download onto the usb drive. Had to call Epson and they said there is an issue with the file download from their site. They sent me a file to use, but when I upload the firmware on the projector I get the 3 status lights like the instructions say but they only stay on for about 5 seconds and then I get a blue blinking light for about 3 seconds and the projector just stays in the On mode. In other words, it is not updating the firmware. The lights are supposed to stay on for around 75 secs. Please advise


----------



## Luminated67

Cacitems4sale said:


> Ok I finally got the link to work and download onto the usb drive. Had to call Epson and they said there is an issue with the file download from their site. They sent me a file to use, but when I upload the firmware on the projector I get the 3 status lights like the instructions say but they only stay on for about 5 seconds and then I get a blue blinking light for about 3 seconds and the projector just stays in the On mode. In other words, it is not updating the firmware. The lights are supposed to stay on for around 75 secs. Please advise


I can’t recall the exact procedure you go through uploading the firmware to the projector, involves holding the power button down on the projector whilst turning on the plug on the wall but if this isn’t done right it won’t upload to firmware.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

Can you update with i ethernet cable or you afto use USB 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

SteveS78 said:


> Cold air from the vent would be visible on the projector though if it reaches that spot?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Thermal optical effects occur due to changes in the density of the air, not just the motion of the air. So whether you have cool air descending, or hot air ascending, it doesn't matter. What matters is that you have high/low density air mixing.
Keep in mind: we can't see wind; it doesn't cause distortions in the light path, because wind is just motion of air of the same density. Any density variations due to the movement of air by wind (or a fan) are miniscule and invisible.
But even small movements of air due to thermal changes of local air density will cause optical aberrations.
So surprisingly a fan which will mix the air faster (than just convection) will reduce the optical effects despite the fact that it causes a lot of air motion; it quickly mixes the different air densities. So a ceiling fan may help you. But also deflecting the HVAC air (both cold and hot) away from the PJ's optical path, will/should help.


----------



## SteveS78

Kieran said:


> Thermal optical effects occur due to changes in the density of the air, not just the motion of the air. So whether you have cool air descending, or hot air ascending, it doesn't matter. What matters is that you have high/low density air mixing.
> Keep in mind: we can't see wind; it doesn't cause distortions in the light path, because wind is just motion of air of the same density. Any density variations due to the movement of air by wind (or a fan) are miniscule and invisible.
> But even small movements of air due to thermal changes of local air density will cause optical aberrations.
> So surprisingly a fan which will mix the air faster (than just convection) will reduce the optical effects despite the fact that it causes a lot of air motion; it quickly mixes the different air densities. So a ceiling fan may help you. But also deflecting the HVAC air (both cold and hot) away from the PJ's optical path, will/should help.


Do you think putting up one of those cheap plastic air deflectors someone linked above in the thread from Lowe's would do the trick? 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Cacitems4sale

Luminated67 said:


> I can’t recall the exact procedure you go through uploading the firmware to the projector, involves holding the power button down on the projector whilst turning on the plug on the wall but if this isn’t done right it won’t upload to firmware.


So after being on with epson and support for an hour, I was able to get to work. Key things to keep in mind, to make sure that the USB is a fat 32 format, that’s a USB is no larger than 15 GB, and that there are no files saved on the USB other than the firmware update. Those were causes for the update not work initially. I hope that helps. Thanks


----------



## Luminated67

^Sorry forgot to mention nothing else on the stick other than the firmware update.


----------



## Kieran

SteveS78 said:


> Do you think putting up one of those cheap plastic air deflectors someone linked above in the thread from Lowe's would do the trick?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Depends on the specific layout of the room. It wouldn't hurt. A small fan nearby to mix the warm (or cold) air wouldn't hurt either. Post some pictures of your room and where the screen, projector, and HVAC vent(s) are located, and I'll try to weigh in some more.


----------



## RRF

fredworld said:


> While awaiting the refund I'm considering *Jaspertronics*. They have the original Epson lamps for $220 which are $110 less than from *Epson* but almost $90 more than *MyProjectorLamps* but come with a 1 year warranty vs 6 months from MyProjectorLamps (MPL). Kinda disappointing because I've had excellent service and results from MPL for the many years that I had a Sharp XV12000 DLP 720P projector having replaced that projector lamp at least 4x with no issues.


I received an Epson ELPLP89 lamp this month from MPL. It fit fine...no issues with the screws once the lamp snapped into place. However the lamp was very dim compared to the factory lamp, and so it was returned. I have bought 6 lamps from MPL over the years, and this is the first time I have had to return a lamp.


----------



## fredworld

Luminated67 said:


> ^Sorry forgot to mention nothing else on the stick other than the firmware update.


FWIW, I used a 32gb blank USB for the update with no issues, FAT32 format, of course.


----------



## SteveS78

Kieran said:


> Depends on the specific layout of the room. It wouldn't hurt. A small fan nearby to mix the warm (or cold) air wouldn't hurt either. Post some pictures of your room and where the screen, projector, and HVAC vent(s) are located, and I'll try to weigh in some more.


Here is a photo. I tried to get all of the relevant objects in the photo. The projector of course in the top right corner of the pic, you can make out the vent on the ceiling out in front on the ceiling and of course the screen on the wall.









Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

SteveS78 said:


> Here is a photo. I tried to get all of the relevant objects in the photo. The projector of course in the top right corner of the pic, you can make out the vent on the ceiling out in front on the ceiling and of course the screen on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


That picture makes things much clearer. I'd say it's definitely the vent directing air into the projector's light path. I'd try the cheap Lowes solution I suggested earlier. If that doesn't work, then maybe consider sealing off that vent and tapping into the duct to install another vent in another area. However, that will involve some drywall work. Alternatively, install a surface mounted duct extension from the offending vent but doing so would likely restrict air volume from the vent. I hope others have better ideas so your room can maintain its comfort level.


----------



## SteveS78

fredworld said:


> That picture makes things much clearer. I'd say it's definitely the vent directing air into the projector's light path. I'd try the cheap Lowes solution I suggested earlier. If that doesn't work, then maybe consider sealing off that vent and tapping into the duct to install another vent in another area. However, that will involve some drywall work. Alternatively, install a surface mounted duct extension from the offending vent but doing so would likely restrict air volume from the vent. I hope others have better ideas so your room can maintain its comfort level.


Thanks for the info. Luckily for us, we can actually keep that vent closed. There is another vent in the basement on the the wall right where the AC/furnace is and it is a super strong current there for both hot and cold (the advantage of the vent being in the basement near the unit haha). My wife actually likes to keep one or both of the vents closed when possible anyways. Hopefully the Lowe's solution will work. We actually used to have a 110 inch screen there and we never saw that. My guess is that it is popping up now because it is a larger screen and the new projector has a different throw and wider light path too. We are going to get a new screen anyways because this one sucks (haven't decided in one yet), so maybe going back to 110 would do the trick worst case? That being said, I like the larger screen. LOL

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

SteveS78 said:


> Here is a photo. I tried to get all of the relevant objects in the photo. The projector of course in the top right corner of the pic, you can make out the vent on the ceiling out in front on the ceiling and of course the screen on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Have you tried using the lens shift and just lowering your image to the point you don't notice the effect, maybe as little as 4-6 inches might be all it takes and if that was the case then all you need do is drop your screen accordingly.

Just a thought.


----------



## SteveS78

Luminated67 said:


> Have you tried using the lens shift and just lowering your image to the point you don't notice the effect, maybe as little as 4-6 inches might be all it takes and if that was the case then all you need do is drop your screen accordingly.
> 
> Just a thought.


Good idea. Might try that when the new screen gets installed. Will be a good opportunity to reset everything and that will be something we can try...

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hopinater

I may have missed this but what does the latest Firmware update (1.04) do for the 5050?


----------



## fredworld

Hopinater said:


> I may have missed this but what does the latest Firmware update (1.04) do for the 5050?


Epson told me as follows on Oct 4,_ "Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error.
Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it."_
I installed it and my HDMI handshake is slightly quicker, plus I haven't had any "Unsupported" messages since.


----------



## Hopinater

^ Great, thank you. I just installed it and then wondered what I installed and if it would matter.


----------



## Werewolf79

I discovered tonight that when 4K 50/60p is turned on in the Panasonic 820 UHD player that the Amazon app will not play any content with wide colour, but when you turn that setting off, thus disabling 4K output then the wide colour returns and you get 12 bit 4:4:4 reported too.

The problem is that Netflix then will not play UHD content at all, even with Epson’s 4K enhancement switched on, in fact it reports 1920x1080 even with the enhancement switched on, so there is either wide colour on some Amazon UHD content or simply 4K resolution using Netflix, I cannot get wide colour on Netflix as it will not play UHD content unless it sees it activated by the UHD player, a limitation of the way Panasonic set these apps up I guess, very annoying in fact.

I could use the X Box but it does not have an SDR/BT2020 mode.


----------



## Luminated67

Werewolf79 said:


> I discovered tonight that when 4K 50/60p is turned on in the Panasonic 820 UHD player that the Amazon app will not play any content with wide colour, but when you turn that setting off, thus disabling 4K output then the wide colour returns and you get 12 bit 4:4:4 reported too.
> 
> The problem is that Netflix then will not play UHD content at all, even with Epson’s 4K enhancement switched on, in fact it reports 1920x1080 even with the enhancement switched on, so there is either wide colour on some Amazon UHD content or simply 4K resolution using Netflix, I cannot get wide colour on Netflix as it will not play UHD content unless it sees it activated by the UHD player, a limitation of the way Panasonic set these apps up I guess, very annoying in fact.
> 
> I could use the X Box but it does not have an SDR/BT2020 mode.


I have the Panasonic UB420 which is the same machine minus the audio outputs and I get everything. What’s the HDMI cable you are using?


----------



## Werewolf79

Luminated67 said:


> I have the Panasonic UB420 which is the same machine minus the audio outputs and I get everything. What’s the HDMI cable you are using?


The cable is fine, it’s a fibre optic 2 metre from Ibra certified for 8K, at such a short length it has never given me an issue, the player sits on a shelf below the projector.

Have you looked at info when the projector is on and do you know you get everything?

Also reading your posts I thought you set your system up to run HDR, I run SDR/BT2020, maybe HDR passes everything but I think that is going to clip highlights as the Panasonic on the 820 will send 500 nits which the projector cannot do, the optimiser helps but SDR/BT2020 seems the best option if you do not have a Lumagen or Mad VR.


----------



## citsur86

Question for everyone. What does lowering the HDR number do? I find on 1 I get a much brighter and more enjoyable watching experience, but does this mean it’s also making the bright scenes dimmer by balancing the brightness across the media?


----------



## durack

Question
Does it make sense to change from Sony VW285ES to Epson 5050 UB?
I am really unhappy with the Sony - no matter what I do I have dull colors and the image is either too dark or too washed out. This is one purchase that I really regret.


----------



## aoaaron

citsur86 said:


> Question for everyone. What does lowering the HDR number do? I find on 1 I get a much brighter and more enjoyable watching experience, but does this mean it’s also making the bright scenes dimmer by balancing the brightness across the media?




It adjusts the tone mapping curve. So in essence, it is either prioritising the highlights to ensure a brighter image but raising the blacks or vice versa. 
You are right, in that if you improve the bright parts, you are potentially ruining the dark parts. Its all about finding a balance. 

Films are mastered differently so if you want the perfect curve for each film, it'll be a bit of trial and error.

If you find an explosion in a film, you can easily map the curve properly to expose the flames properly. I find thats a brilliant 'calibration' option per title.

I'd personally just set & forget it though .Fiddling it with it for the 'most accurate HDR' is a bit stressful and takes the fun out of the PJ.


----------



## aoaaron

durack said:


> Question
> Does it make sense to change from Sony VW285ES to Epson 5050 UB?
> I am really unhappy with the Sony - no matter what I do I have dull colors and the image is either too dark or too washed out. This is one purchase that I really regret.



The Epson will destroy the Sony for brightness in the majority of content so it will definitely not look dull or washed out.

Its contrast won't be as good. I assume you are not in a 'batcave' but in a normal room? If you're in a normal room with white walls (ambient light reflected), then the 5040/5050/6040/6050 IMO are my PJs of choice.

Sonys are the second best in contrast but their light output sucks. They come into their own with the laser models but otherwise, I'd pick JVC > Epson > Sony... for most people's use cases.. when taking into account people's budgets and value for money Epson >> JVC > Sony.


----------



## citsur86

aoaaron said:


> It adjusts the tone mapping curve. So in essence, it is either prioritising the highlights to ensure a brighter image but raising the blacks or vice versa.
> You are right, in that if you improve the bright parts, you are potentially ruining the dark parts. Its all about finding a balance.
> 
> Films are mastered differently so if you want the perfect curve for each film, it'll be a bit of trial and error.
> 
> If you find an explosion in a film, you can easily map the curve properly to expose the flames properly. I find thats a brilliant 'calibration' option per title.
> 
> I'd personally just set & forget it though .Fiddling it with it for the 'most accurate HDR' is a bit stressful and takes the fun out of the PJ.


Thanks for this. I was finding the projector seemed so dim as I just bought it. Especially watching the mandalorian. I stumbled on this setting and lowered to 1 and it made it so much better to my eyes. Thanks for the fire tip! Too bad there’s no Dolby vision support as it would likely solve this issue. Dolby vision optimizes each frame for proper color and brightness whereas I believe hdr 10 takes an average of the movie and applies the same color and brightness curve throughout. Maybe one day Epson will license DV...


----------



## aoaaron

citsur86 said:


> Thanks for this. I was finding the projector seemed so dim as I just bought it. Especially watching the mandalorian. I stumbled on this setting and lowered to 1 and it made it so much better to my eyes. Thanks for the fire tip! Too bad there’s no Dolby vision support as it would likely solve this issue. Dolby vision optimizes each frame for proper color and brightness whereas I believe hdr 10 takes an average of the movie and applies the same color and brightness curve throughout. Maybe one day Epson will license DV...


DTM does what Dolby Vision does to a degree.

If you want better HDR, get a MADVR HTPC, Lumagen or MADVR ENVY. 
If you want Dolby vision tone mapping via HDR, buy a HDR Vertex as it allows for that with some modding.


----------



## CZ Eddie

My source is an HTPC with nVidia RTX 2060S and latest driver. 
Not sure if the video driver may be at fault or if it's something in the PJ.

But when viewing things like text, such as a webpage, I get a lot of flickering. And it seems to be color changing back and forth. Like changing from warm to cool and somewhere in between, back and forth, over and over. Causing flickering.

Anyone else seeing this behavior?
I have had it with two different 5050's and I have tried disabling auto-IRIS but that didn't help.

Anything else in the settings that may somehow be responsible?
I tried to find an auto-temperature control but didn't see anything.

And I can't find any relatable settings in the Nvidia driver control panel.


----------



## biglen

CZ Eddie said:


> My source is an HTPC with nVidia RTX 2060S and latest driver.
> Not sure if the video driver may be at fault or if it's something in the PJ.
> 
> But when viewing things like text, such as a webpage, I get a lot of flickering. And it seems to be color changing back and forth. Like changing from warm to cool and somewhere in between, back and forth, over and over. Causing flickering.
> 
> Anyone else seeing this behavior?
> I have had it with two different 5050's and I have tried disabling auto-IRIS but that didn't help.
> 
> Anything else in the settings that may somehow be responsible?
> I tried to find an auto-temperature control but didn't see anything.
> 
> And I can't find any relatable settings in the Nvidia driver control panel.


I have a 2060 Super in my HTPC, and don't have the issue with my 5050. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

CZ Eddie said:


> My source is an HTPC with nVidia RTX 2060S and latest driver.
> Not sure if the video driver may be at fault or if it's something in the PJ.
> 
> But when viewing things like text, such as a webpage, I get a lot of flickering. And it seems to be color changing back and forth. Like changing from warm to cool and somewhere in between, back and forth, over and over. Causing flickering.
> 
> Anyone else seeing this behavior?
> I have had it with two different 5050's and I have tried disabling auto-IRIS but that didn't help.
> 
> Anything else in the settings that may somehow be responsible?
> I tried to find an auto-temperature control but didn't see anything.
> 
> And I can't find any relatable settings in the Nvidia driver control panel.





biglen said:


> I have a 2060 Super in my HTPC, and don't have the issue with my 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I've no experience with your source, but does the behavior continue without the HTPC with nVidia RTX 2060S in the chain? Have you tried direct connection with a UHD player?


----------



## CZ Eddie

biglen said:


> I have a 2060 Super in my HTPC, and don't have the issue with my 5050.


Great, thanks for that!
I will rule out the 5050 and concentrate on other possible issues causing this.



fredworld said:


> I've no experience with your source, but does the behavior continue without the HTPC with nVidia RTX 2060S in the chain? Have you tried direct connection with a UHD player?


HTPC is my only source until this weekend when I set up a streaming media player.
I'm so mad that Amazon & Netflix don't offer ATMOS or even Dolby Digital when streaming on HTPC.


----------



## biglen

CZ Eddie said:


> Great, thanks for that!
> I will rule out the 5050 and concentrate on other possible issues causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> HTPC is my only source until this weekend when I set up a streaming media player.
> I'm so mad that Amazon & Netflix don't offer ATMOS or even Dolby Digital when streaming on HTPC.


What resolution do you have the PC set to?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

CZ Eddie said:


> Great, thanks for that!
> I will rule out the 5050 and concentrate on other possible issues causing this.
> 
> 
> 
> HTPC is my only source until this weekend when I set up a streaming media player.
> I'm so mad that Amazon & Netflix don't offer ATMOS or even Dolby Digital when streaming on HTPC.


The app on win10 for Netflix supports ATMOS. You must download the Dolby HT app, it's free and of course subscribe to the top tier Netflix package,


----------



## durack

aoaaron said:


> The Epson will destroy the Sony for brightness in the majority of content so it will definitely not look dull or washed out.
> 
> Its contrast won't be as good. I assume you are not in a 'batcave' but in a normal room? If you're in a normal room with white walls (ambient light reflected), then the 5040/5050/6040/6050 IMO are my PJs of choice.


My PJ setup is in a dedicated HT room, no light (well I actually don't like complete darkness so usually the door is open a bit and lets in a tiny bit of light in - but it really makes no difference).
My room walls are painted very dark red.


----------



## Pretorian

I am trying out some HFR content on my 6050.
Here you can see a demo I did:


----------



## mon2479

I've been trying for months to try and getting my oppo 203 input to spit out HDR when I feed it my roku, is there a setting on the epson inputs that I can mess with? It's just weird......I can get HDR if I feed my roku through my Yamaha 3050, but no 60fps, only 30fps. If I feed my roku through the oppo 203, I can get the test to check the 4k 60fps, but never spit out HDR. Someone in the oppo thread asked for me to check the epson inputs. Idk.......so frustrating


----------



## Pretorian

I am using two different calibrations settings for my 6050, one for SDR content and one for HDR. I think I got those settings from a user in this thread.
I would like to make another calibration just to see if I like the picture more.

Is there a guide on how to calibrate by yourself without a professional and without any extra gear like i "light meter" or something like that. I would like to use some kind of pattern disc that guides me through the process.


----------



## fredworld

Pretorian said:


> I am using two different calibrations settings for my 6050, one for SDR content and one for HDR. I think I got those settings from a user in this thread.
> I would like to make another calibration just to see if I like the picture more.
> 
> Is there a guide on how to calibrate by yourself without a professional and without any extra gear like i "light meter" or something like that. I would like to use some kind of pattern disc that guides me through the process.


Here you go, best $40 I've spent for my 5050UB, take the time to read the basic Getting Started articles: *http://spearsandmunsil.com*


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Pretorian said:


> I am trying out some HFR content on my 6050.
> Here you can see a demo I did:


What exactly is the point of your videos? They are all the same. And your "diy" videos have no diy information whatsoever. 
So why advertise them here? What are you trying to accomplish? What are we supposed to see in the hfr video? All i see is a bad image with motion judder. You can't get a decent projector image in daylight.


----------



## Pretorian

Tsunamijhoe said:


> What exactly is the point of your videos? They are all the same. And your "diy" videos have no diy information whatsoever.
> So why advertise them here? What are you trying to accomplish? What are we supposed to see in the hfr video? All i see is a bad image with motion judder. You can't get a decent projector image in daylight.


I a sorry if you dont like it so I wont post any more. 
My "point" is to show the HFR smoothness (or I was trying to do that). I like to watch demos of other peoples home audio and video and I thought other liked it as well.


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## Pretorian

I am using the 6050 with a ten year old 16:9 Euroscreen grey ReAct 104" high contrast screen. The specs says it has 1.0 gain even though it is grey.

I am planning on upgrading to a 128" 2.35:1 screen.

Since I got my screen I have both moved my cinema to another room and painted it dark and added 100% (95%?) blackout blinds. The ceiling is still white and furnitures like the big sofa is almost white. Other then that the room gets really dark, almost black when the projector is off.

*Should I look at a regular white screen for my room or is the high contrast still a better option? Or should I go in the middle and get a grey screen.*


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Pretorian said:


> I a sorry if you dont like it so I wont post any more.
> My "point" is to show the HFR smoothness (or I was trying to do that). I like to watch demos of other peoples home audio and video and I thought other liked it as well.


Well, a demo shows off your setup and what it can do, and details what your equipment is, and how it is setup. You show a movie while you walk around a full lit room, im sorry, i don't understand why or what the point is or how it is supposed to show how good the epson is.
By all means, make all the films you want, but like i said, what do you want to accomplish? What are we the readers supposed to take away or learn from your walkthroughs?

Why not do a "proper" video detailing your blackout blinds build, what materials you used, how you did the controls and electrical, how you installed them and so on? 
That is a DIY video.


----------



## Pretorian

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Well, a demo shows off your setup and what it can do, and details what your equipment is, and how it is setup. You show a movie while you walk around a full lit room, im sorry, i don't understand why or what the point is or how it is supposed to show how good the epson is.
> By all means, make all the films you want, but like i said, what do you want to accomplish? What are we the readers supposed to take away or learn from your walkthroughs?


The cutting and walking is so Youtube wont remove the video for copyright infringement. 
The take away that I get from demos like this is inspiration and ideas that I can try at home on my own equipment. If I hear a song someone plays on a demo using, for example, Bowers speakers I want to try that song at home. Or if someone demos the Ready Player One car chase I want to try that out on my cinema.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Does anyone with a 5050 use it with a Lumagen and what is your experience with that? I'm curious to hear if the Epson 5050 is capable of showing what the Lumagen can do. I ask this as the Lumagen is about 2x the price of the Epson and I'm wondering if it's better suited for higher end equipment or if the Epson pairs well with it.


----------



## Medality

Hi, future 5050UB owner here. This will be my first projector and I'm excited! I have a couple of questions for you guys.
Did the firmware updates improve things like the distracting auto-iris? Also, does HDR mode still need to be engaged manually when using an HDR source?
Also, I'm planning to sit 12' from a 120" screen, with the PJ 3 feets behind me. Do you think that's ok or should I put the PJ further behind? My ceiling is 7' 5" high. I don't want to put it too close so I don't hear the fan too much, but I don't want to put it too far behind and lose some brightness.
Can't wait to watch UHD Blu-rays and play games on the big screen! Will be a big change from my 65" 4K HDR TV, with a 10' sitting distance.
Thanks!


----------



## fredworld

Medality said:


> Hi, future 5050UB owner here. This will be my first projector and I'm excited! I have a couple of questions for you guys.
> Did the firmware updates improve things like the distracting auto-iris? Also, does HDR mode still need to be engaged manually when using an HDR source?
> Also, I'm planning to sit 12' from a 120" screen, with the PJ 3 feets behind me. Do you think that's ok or should I put the PJ further behind? My ceiling is 7' 5" high. I don't want to put it too close so I don't hear the fan too much, but I don't want to put it too far behind and lose some brightness.
> Can't wait to watch UHD Blu-rays and play games on the big screen! Will be a big change from my 65" 4K HDR TV, with a 10' sitting distance.
> Thanks!


I'll try to answer your questions but others might have differing opinions. My PJ is 14' from the screen and 1st row seating has an 11' viewing disance with a 102" 2.35 wide screen.
The new FW did nothing for the Auto Iris. I stopped using it because the "pumping" is too distracting mainly during fade-in/fade-out credits against a black background and at various other moments during a movie.
HDR activates automatically when the HDR setting is set to AUTO.
I use the projector in "MEDIUM" Power Consumption and the noise (measured with a SPL meter is 44db @ 3" from the front of the PJ) is not an issue. My ceiling is also 7.5' and I sit just in front or in the second row on a riser where the ceiling is 7' just in back of the projector. On very rare ocasions I run the PJ in "HIGH" mode (52db) and it's louder but still not an issue for me. I hope this helps.


----------



## Medality

fredworld said:


> I'll try to answer your questions but others might have differing opinions. My PJ is 14' from the screen and 1st row seating has an 11' viewing disance with a 102" 2.35 wide screen.
> The new FW did nothing for the Auto Iris. I stopped using it because the "pumping" is too distracting mainly during fade-in/fade-out credits against a black background and at various other moments during a movie.
> HDR activates automatically when the HDR setting is set to AUTO.
> I use the projector in "MEDIUM" Power Consumption and the noise (measured with a SPL meter is 44db @ 3" from the front of the PJ) is not an issue. My ceiling is also 7.5' and I sit just in front or in the second row on a riser where the ceiling is 7' just in back of the projector. On very rare ocasions I run the PJ in "HIGH" mode (52db) and it's louder but still not an issue for me. I hope this helps.


Good to hear! (except for the auto-iris 😐)
Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Pretorian

fredworld said:


> I'll try to answer your questions but others might have differing opinions. My PJ is 14' from the screen and 1st row seating has an 11' viewing disance with a 102" 2.35 wide screen.
> The new FW did nothing for the Auto Iris. I stopped using it because the "pumping" is too distracting mainly during fade-in/fade-out credits against a black background and at various other moments during a movie.
> HDR activates automatically when the HDR setting is set to AUTO.
> I use the projector in "MEDIUM" Power Consumption and the noise (measured with a SPL meter is 44db @ 3" from the front of the PJ) is not an issue. My ceiling is also 7.5' and I sit just in front or in the second row on a riser where the ceiling is 7' just in back of the projector. On very rare ocasions I run the PJ in "HIGH" mode (52db) and it's louder but still not an issue for me. I hope this helps.


I have almost the same numbers. I use 104" 16:9 and I sit 9' from the screen. The projector is almost above my head at 10,5'.
So is it the iris I hear during end credits when it goes from black to maybe a white text on screen?

I have my projector at Medium and I am not disturbed of the noice. But I do plan on building a soffit because I want a bigger screen and the projector already hits the back wall.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> I'll try to answer your questions but others might have differing opinions. My PJ is 14' from the screen and 1st row seating has an 11' viewing disance with a 102" 2.35 wide screen.
> The new FW did nothing for the Auto Iris. I stopped using it because the "pumping" is too distracting mainly during fade-in/fade-out credits against a black background and at various other moments during a movie.
> HDR activates automatically when the HDR setting is set to AUTO.
> I use the projector in "MEDIUM" Power Consumption and the noise (measured with a SPL meter is 44db @ 3" from the front of the PJ) is not an issue. My ceiling is also 7.5' and I sit just in front or in the second row on a riser where the ceiling is 7' just in back of the projector. On very rare ocasions I run the PJ in "HIGH" mode (52db) and it's louder but still not an issue for me. I hope this helps.


Hmmmm, I've never noticed the "pumping" from the iris. What should I look for when it's doing it? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Musty Hustla

Pretorian said:


> I a sorry if you dont like it so I wont post any more.
> My "point" is to show the HFR smoothness (or I was trying to do that). I like to watch demos of other peoples home audio and video and I thought other liked it as well.


I appreciate your videos and enjoy the opportunity to see a cool set up like yours.


----------



## djsvetljo

Pretorian said:


> I am using the 6050 with a ten year old 16:9 Euroscreen grey ReAct 104" high contrast screen. The specs says it has 1.0 gain even though it is grey.
> 
> I am planning on upgrading to a 128" 2.35:1 screen.
> 
> Since I got my screen I have both moved my cinema to another room and painted it dark and added 100% (95%?) blackout blinds. The ceiling is still white and furnitures like the big sofa is almost white. Other then that the room gets really dark, almost black when the projector is off.
> 
> *Should I look at a regular white screen for my room or is the high contrast still a better option? Or should I go in the middle and get a grey screen.*


Screen gain is not tied to screen color. The gain simply means how much of the projected light is reflected back.

6050 is plenty bright. I would get a screen with the highest possible contrast so white is probably not that. I would be concerned about the white ceiling. If the ceiling is low (e.g. not vaulted), reflections from the screen will shine hard on it. I am actually in a similar situation - it is a living room setup, with some drapes for the side walls but don't know what to do for the ceiling. I wonder if ALR screen with "poor" vertical viewing angle will reduce the reflection up.


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Hmmmm, I've never noticed the "pumping" from the iris. What should I look for when it's doing it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Trust me, you're better off not looking for it. Once it's seen, it can't be unseen. 
But if you insist, the most obvious is as I stated earlier, "...during fade-in/fade-out credits against a black background..." As a credit against a black background fades the screen shifts to black, then pumps up quickly to a slightly brighter black as the next credit fades in (if one never watches end credits, then it's not a problem).
It's similar during very suspenseful dark scenes making for an inconsistent lighting palette for a few seconds. YMMV..

However, it can create a very dramatic effect after certain high tension scenes that completely fade out to black, lingers there a few seconds, then gradually fades in for the next scene. Kinda like the movie is taking a breath after a big moment
You've been warned!!!


----------



## JoelM

OK guys I am in the club. I just installed the 5050UB and have been messing around. Is there a way to turn off smoothing? I dislike the effect and can't seem to find the menu selection. I only tested 3D movies thus far and don't know if this is just something that defaults to because of 3D? The menu looks pretty deep compared to my last projector.

I feel as though something will be set up wrong between my 4k blu ray, Denon receiver and projector settings. Things have changed so much in 10 years.


----------



## fredworld

JoelM said:


> OK guys I am in the club. I just installed the 5050UB and have been messing around. Is there a way to turn off smoothing? I dislike the effect and can't seem to find the menu selection. I only tested 3D movies thus far and don't know if this is just something that defaults to because of 3D? The menu looks pretty deep compared to my last projector.
> 
> I feel as though something will be set up wrong between my 4k blu ray, Denon receiver and projector settings. Things have changed so much in 10 years.


It's not called "smoothing." It's Frame Interpolation (aka FI). Hit MENU, then scroll down to Frame Interpolation. If it's grayed out, then it's not accessible. It's disabled for 4k source material. The projector must be fed a 1080p/24hz signal or similar for its use. Also,see *this post.*


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## Hawkmarket

Hawkmarket said:


> Does anyone with a 5050 use it with a Lumagen and what is your experience with that? I'm curious to hear if the Epson 5050 is capable of showing what the Lumagen can do. I ask this as the Lumagen is about 2x the price of the Epson and I'm wondering if it's better suited for higher end equipment or if the Epson pairs well with it.


Just checking back on this again to see if there are any Lumagen users with this projector. I'd love to hear any experiences.


----------



## Sekosche

A 0.9 gain High contrast gray silver ticket screen in a totally light controlled room provides an excellent black floor from the 5050 for movies and video games.

The 5050’s auto iris mechanical sound and overall fan noise with medium lamp is considerably quieter than the Epson 3700 it replaced. The iris used to bother me more in video games on the previous PJ with a lot of quick fades in and out to black and back to bright scenes, but I barely notice now in a dedicated much smaller room with the PJ even closer to the MLP.

No worthwhile complaints from my last 9 months of ownership! I’ve been thoroughly impressed with this PJ’s performance.


----------



## Musty Hustla

Hawkmarket said:


> Just checking back on this again to see if there are any Lumagen users with this projector. I'd love to hear any experiences.


There seem to be some fans in the 5040 thread.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Musty Hustla said:


> There seem to be some fans in the 5040 thread.


Thank you for that.....I'll head over there and see what I can learn.


----------



## citsur86

Searched the thread and came up empty. Is there a way to change the EPSON splash screen logo to a user logo? My old Optomo 1080GT let me save whatever was displayed at any time to be the splash screen. I found other Epson guides that say the Extended Menu has a "User Logo" submenu in it but sadly I do not see that on my Epson 5050UB. Anyone know?


----------



## citsur86

JPBoggis said:


> I currently use Apple TV 4K...


I’ve had the 5050UB for a little over a week setup. My Apple TV4K was doing great playing in 4K HDR until tonight. It somehow reverted back to 4K SDR. when I try to put it back to HDR I get the Epson screen and no signal. I swapped HDMI with my Oppo immediately after confirming it got 4K HDR to the projector. I even swapped out another Apple TV 4K from another room in the house after confirming it was playing 4K hdr. The one that wasn’t working played 4K hdr on my B7A OLED. The newly placed Apple TV 4K still won’t work. Any idea? Have you run into this before? Very frustrating!

Edit: Nevermjnd it just wouldn’t force it for the Home Screen. Setting it to match content switched to HDR fine when playing something in 4K HDR. it was the match content that somehow was reset to no.


----------



## Pretorian

djsvetljo said:


> Screen gain is not tied to screen color. The gain simply means how much of the projected light is reflected back.
> 
> 6050 is plenty bright. I would get a screen with the highest possible contrast so white is probably not that. I would be concerned about the white ceiling. If the ceiling is low (e.g. not vaulted), reflections from the screen will shine hard on it. I am actually in a similar situation - it is a living room setup, with some drapes for the side walls but don't know what to do for the ceiling. I wonder if ALR screen with "poor" vertical viewing angle will reduce the reflection up.


Does that mean I should be looking at a regular grey screen? I would like to get rid of the "sparkles" my high contras screen gives.


----------



## ValoHannu

Bought an Epson TW9400W (6050UB with wireless HDMI) and couldn't be happier with the projector.

The problem I have is with the wireless part. I tried to search online but no one else seems to have the same problem. It keeps a loud chirping sound (like a high-rpm fan or so) from the speakers when the wireless connection is on.

My sound signal chain is Denon X3700h preouts rca -> DSP xlr -> amplifiers xlr.
Video signal is UB820 hdmi -> Denon hdmi -> epson wireless module

I tried to make a new rca - xlr - cable with signal ground detached from xlr, as the Denon has no "safety" ground and I heard this might solve the case. But doesn't seem to do the trick for me.

Any ideas what to do next? Contacted Epson, but no answer yet.

Here's the video with the chirping. You need to have volume quite loud so you can hear it, but it is actually very loud in my theater. There's some sorta noise, then there is one line and after that there's nothing but chirping or whatever you call that sound..

chirping on Vimeo


----------



## platinum00

I had all kinds of noise making it to my speakers over the HDMI with my Denon. I removed the ground plug from the Epson and it went away.

Im sure there are better fixes but this worked for me.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## djsvetljo

There is a low hum noise from 6050ub (not the main fan) *ONLY *when there is a source signal. With source off or the color patterns displayed, hum goes away. It similar noise to a quite fridge (lower frequency) and it is more audible from the back of the case. Anyone knows what it is and can it be de-activated for quite movies? It is not the iris.


----------



## Luminated67

djsvetljo said:


> There is a low hum noise from 6050ub (not the main fan) *ONLY *when there is a source signal. With source off or the color patterns displayed, hum goes away. It similar noise to a quite fridge (lower frequency) and it is more audible from the back of the case. Anyone knows what it is and can it be de-activated for quite movies? It is not the iris.


I think it’s the e-shift in action, turn off 4K Enhancement and it should go away. Of course if it’s a 4K source material the 4K Enhancement can’t be turned off, it’s only with 1080p material you have the option.


----------



## citsur86

citsur86 said:


> Searched the thread and came up empty. Is there a way to change the EPSON splash screen logo to a user logo? My old Optomo 1080GT let me save whatever was displayed at any time to be the splash screen. I found other Epson guides that say the Extended Menu has a "User Logo" submenu in it but sadly I do not see that on my Epson 5050UB. Anyone know?


Just an update on anyone for this - I called Epson support. The 5050UB and 6050UB cannot display a custom start logo. Not a deal-breaker but I was pretty upset to learn this. I always liked having my own start screens for my theaters. I made this one custom in preparation and now it'll never see the light of day - other than here lol.


----------



## aoaaron

Pretorian said:


> I am trying out some HFR content on my 6050.
> Here you can see a demo I did:


I had 60fps so much for films. It looks awful.

Much feels so good in games. Strange.


----------



## Hawkmarket

citsur86 said:


> Just an update on anyone for this - I called Epson support. The 5050UB and 6050UB cannot display a custom start logo. Not a deal-breaker but I was pretty upset to learn this. I always liked having my own start screens for my theaters. I made this one custom in preparation and now it'll never see the light of day - other than here lol.
> 
> View attachment 3069537


That is kind of fun....and now I'm disappointed I can't do it when I had never even thought about doing it until I saw your post. Way to go, you've brought my day down 1%.


----------



## citsur86

Hawkmarket said:


> That is kind of fun....and now I'm disappointed I can't do it when I had never even thought about doing it until I saw your post. Way to go, you've brought my day down 1%.


Let me try to bring it back up 1%. Perhaps the reason they don’t allow it is because these projectors start up so quickly you wouldn’t be able to see the splash well before they start showing you the picture!


----------



## Sekosche

citsur86 said:


> Just an update on anyone for this - I called Epson support. The 5050UB and 6050UB cannot display a custom start logo. Not a deal-breaker but I was pretty upset to learn this. I always liked having my own start screens for my theaters. I made this one custom in preparation and now it'll never see the light of day - other than here lol.
> 
> View attachment 3069537


Just add a Chromecast or other mirroring option and you can have any start photos you desire...not quite the same but a worthy substitute.


----------



## citsur86

Sekosche said:


> Just add a Chromecast or other mirroring option and you can have any start photos you desire...not quite the same but a worthy substitute.


True - If I am bringing someone into the room I can just have the Apple TV 4K on airplaying the photo when we walk in and go from there. But part of what I like to demo is the smart home method that the room uses for turning on and off and changing source devices. Oh well - in the grand scheme of things a splash screen is .002% of the importance of a projector.


----------



## MomentumMike

While calibrating gamma, I attempted to use HCFR parameterized for 8 grayscale levels, in hope that those levels would match the white output of the 8 provided by the Epson. They did not. I calibrated the levels using Epson patterns to near perfection, then ran a grayscale sweep with madTPG patterns and the result was a nasty series of dEs. The Epson was set for 16-235 input. The signal went madTPG(16-235)=>GPU(0-255)=>Epson(16-255). I forewent the Epson patterns and used the grayscale controls to get what I hope is reasonably accurate gamma. Using 20 points at 5% spacing, all landed in the 2.3 to 2.4 range (except 5%) with 2.35 being my target. Luminance graph looked bang on.

I’m posting this for others who might give this a go. The pros here can point out potential mistakes I’ve made. I am very new to calibrating. It’s certainly rewarding, but I do question whether my targets and parameters (so many) are proper.


----------



## Luminated67

^I'm neither a computer buff or remotely technical so the very idea of tackling calibration is something that sends chills down my spine.


----------



## MomentumMike

Luminated67 said:


> ^I'm neither a computer buff or remotely technical so the very idea of tackling calibration is something that sends chills down my spine.


Oh, I’m getting chills alright. Lol.


----------



## citsur86

Has anyone used 3D with this projector? Is the image bright enough even in a completely dark room? If so, what glasses are you using? I can't seem to find the Epson V12H548006 glasses anywhere.


----------



## fredworld

citsur86 said:


> Has anyone used 3D with this projector? Is the image bright enough even in a completely dark room? If so, what glasses are you using? I can't seem to find the Epson V12H548006 glasses anywhere.


I have six 3D discs: Alita, Pacific Rim, Gravity, The Walk, Pompeii and Edge of Tomorrow. All of them POP with a nice startle effect when the scenes call for it. Only Alita and Pompeii are real 3D but the others don't suffer in their 3D conversion. Sometimes distant objects have ghosts which can be ameliorated somewhat with judicious use of the projetor's 3D Depth control but I don't find it distracting unless I'm looking for it. Several guests have commented on the realism of The Walk's height effects, and more than one squirmed in their seat at various times. Gravity has an excellent sense of "space." The glasses I use are the Samsung SSG-4100GB which I think might be discontinued but just do a Google search and equivalents should come up. Some complain that the Samsungs are not large enough to suppress ambient light.


----------



## citsur86

fredworld said:


> I have six 3D discs: Alita, Pacific Rim, Gravity, The Walk, Pompeii and Edge of Tomorrow. All of them POP with a nice startle effect when the scenes call for it. Only Alita and Pompeii are real 3D but the others don't suffer in their 3D conversion. Sometimes distant objects have ghosts which can be ameliorated somewhat with judicious use of the projetor's 3D Depth control but I don't find it distracting unless I'm looking for it. Several guests have commented on the realism of The Walk's height effects, and more than one squirmed in their seat at various times. Gravity has an excellent sense of "space." The glasses I use are the Samsung SSG-4100GB which I think might be discontinued but just do a Google search and equivalents should come up. Some complain that the Samsungs are not large enough to suppress ambient light.


Thanks for the info - I have some 3D movies for my previous Optoma 1080GT. Come to think of it, I wonder if the 2 glasses I had for that will work with the Epson 5050UB? They are ZF2300. It's confusing to figure out what glasses work with which projectors.


----------



## JoelM

I have no idea why nobody really talks abought 3D projection with this. I have bought 70 3D movies the past month because of this thing. It is fantastic and I will not stop. I bought these glasses and they are very comfortable and work ridiculously well.






Amazon.com: Elikliv 4 Pack Active Shutter 3D Glasses, Rechargeable Bluetooth 3D Glasses Compatible with Epson 3D Projector, TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA (Pack 4): MP3 Players & Accessories


Amazon.com: Elikliv 4 Pack Active Shutter 3D Glasses, Rechargeable Bluetooth 3D Glasses Compatible with Epson 3D Projector, TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA (Pack 4): MP3 Players & Accessories



www.amazon.com


----------



## Luminated67

citsur86 said:


> Has anyone used 3D with this projector? Is the image bright enough even in a completely dark room? If so, what glasses are you using? I can't seem to find the Epson V12H548006 glasses anywhere.


I bought these and they work perfectly but as someone who wears glasses having these in front on my normal glasses was just too uncomfortable so I decided 3D wasn’t for me but the bit that I tried I would say it’s definitely bright enough for 3D use though like everything screen size will come into play.


----------



## Musty Hustla

JoelM said:


> I have no idea why nobody really talks abought 3D projection with this. I have bought 70 3D movies the past month because of this thing. It is fantastic and I will not stop. I bought these glasses and they are very comfortable and work ridiculously well.[\QUOTE]
> 
> 
> Where are you finding them?


----------



## JoelM

Mostly Ebay and Amazon. It is still bigger overseas so I import a ton of them. My latest were Ralph Breaks the Internet and Onward.


----------



## cbatc

JoelM said:


> I have no idea why nobody really talks abought 3D projection with this. I have bought 70 3D movies the past month because of this thing. It is fantastic and I will not stop. I bought these glasses and they are very comfortable and work ridiculously well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Elikliv 4 Pack Active Shutter 3D Glasses, Rechargeable Bluetooth 3D Glasses Compatible with Epson 3D Projector, TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA (Pack 4): MP3 Players & Accessories
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Elikliv 4 Pack Active Shutter 3D Glasses, Rechargeable Bluetooth 3D Glasses Compatible with Epson 3D Projector, TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA (Pack 4): MP3 Players & Accessories
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


Zavvi.com. Hamilton books has a good sale also.


----------



## JoelM

cbatc said:


> Zavvi.com. Hamilton books has a good sale also.


Dude, thanks for the link. I just bought 15 more lol. Is there a 3D sale thread somewhere?


----------



## fredworld

JoelM said:


> Dude, thanks for the link. I just bought 15 more lol. Is there a 3D sale thread somewhere?


There are many 3D threads on AVSForum, some for sales. Just do a search for 3D across the site. Meantime, check out these sites as they might have some interest for you: 
*3D Rentals*
*Real or Fake 3D*


----------



## Drew1204

I have an epson 6050 and it has been fine with no issues til date. Then last week, I became unable to play Netflix, Disney+ or iTunes Movies. It tells me there is an HDCP error and to check the connection or HDMI cable.

The cable is an optical HDMI cable. I tried bypassing the Denon Receiver and plugged the Apple TV directly into the projector. Still HDCP error. I tried changing the HDMI cable from my Apple TV in the other room which works fine with Apple TV to play Netlix or Disney+ with no HDCP errors and it still gave an HDCP error when connected directly from Apple TV -> projector. 

Did the Apple TV update affect something with what it is requiring from the projector? Is there a firmware update for the projector and if so how do I apply it if I am using a Mac? How can I fix this issue since it isn't an HDMI cable issue?


----------



## citsur86

Drew1204 said:


> I have an epson 6050 and it has been fine with no issues til date. Then last week, I became unable to play Netflix, Disney+ or iTunes Movies. It tells me there is an HDCP error and to check the connection or HDMI cable.
> 
> The cable is an optical HDMI cable. I tried bypassing the Denon Receiver and plugged the Apple TV directly into the projector. Still HDCP error. I tried changing the HDMI cable from my Apple TV in the other room which works fine with Apple TV to play Netlix or Disney+ with no HDCP errors and it still gave an HDCP error when connected directly from Apple TV -> projector.
> 
> Did the Apple TV update affect something with what it is requiring from the projector? Is there a firmware update for the projector and if so how do I apply it if I am using a Mac? How can I fix this issue since it isn't an HDMI cable issue?


I have been getting the same error with an almost identical setup. Optical HDMI from Apple TV to Marantz AVR and optical HDMI from AVR to projector. However, when I get the error I just power through it and it still plays. I spent 2 hours a few nights ago trying to figure out why when I went to turn on 4K HDR in the menu it kept telling me it couldn't. Then I found I had to set it to automatically match source content and when I played something in 4K HDR it switched appropriately. What I believe is happening is that the Projector wouldn't allow forced HDR content (apple TV menu) but will allow 4K HDR when it is played from the source. I could be completely wrong on this, it is just a hypothesis.

I later spent 2 hours trying to figure out why my PS5 would only play in 4K or 1080p HDR but not 4K AND HDR. I switched the HDMI input from 2 to 1 on my Epson 5050UB and now it allowed me to set everything to automatic or 4K and HDR if I want.


----------



## fredworld

citsur86 said:


> I have been getting the same error with an almost identical setup. Optical HDMI from Apple TV to Marantz AVR and optical HDMI from AVR to projector. However, when I get the error I just power through it and it still plays. I spent 2 hours a few nights ago trying to figure out why when I went to turn on 4K HDR in the menu it kept telling me it couldn't. Then I found I had to set it to automatically match source content and when I played something in 4K HDR it switched appropriately. What I believe is happening is that the Projector wouldn't allow forced HDR content (apple TV menu) but will allow 4K HDR when it is played from the source. I could be completely wrong on this, it is just a hypothesis.
> 
> I later spent 2 hours trying to figure out why my PS5 would only play in 4K or 1080p HDR but not 4K AND HDR. I switched the HDMI input from 2 to 1 on my Epson 5050UB and now it allowed me to set everything to automatic or 4K and HDR if I want.


I'm thinking that it might be the AppleTV or the Epson's HDMI input if you're using HDMI 2. I had AppleTV through my Roku Ultra for a 7 day trial that I canceled just a few days ago but Netflix and Disney+ continued to play with no issues through the Roku and still do. My signal path is Roku>Marantz Av7704>5050UB's HDMI 1 (the input with FW 1.04 that addressed connectivity issues). If you haven't updated the Epson to 1.04, then perhaps it's time. Don't know what else to suggest.


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## Cacitems4sale

I have to start off by apologizing with this question and I’m sure is posted somewhere in the forum. Where is the setting in the 6050 to see what resolution the projector is putting out for the respective content you’re watching?


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## mon2479

Are HDMI inputs 1 & 2 the same? My installer used input 2, it will be a pain to change inputs since the PJ is right up against the back wall, but if its recommend to be in 1 and do the newest firmware update, then I'll spend the time to do it right. For the most part, everything looks great, no issues.

Thanks


----------



## Angelo_Verbeke

here i use hdmi 2 on my 9400.and no issues. all playing well.
4k/60hz np. dolby vision with my integral 2. madvr etc


Verstuurd vanaf mijn OnePlus 7T Pro met Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

mon2479 said:


> Are HDMI inputs 1 & 2 the same? My installer used input 2, it will be a pain to change inputs since the PJ is right up against the back wall, but if its recommend to be in 1 and do the newest firmware update, then I'll spend the time to do it right. For the most part, everything looks great, no issues.
> 
> Thanks


Regarding FW 1.04, Epson told me as follows on Oct 4,_ "Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error.
Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it."_
I installed it and my HDMI handshake is slightly quicker, plus I haven't had any "Unsupported" messages since.


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## platinum00

Cacitems4sale said:


> I have to start off by apologizing with this question and I’m sure is posted somewhere in the forum. Where is the setting in the 6050 to see what resolution the projector is putting out for the respective content you’re watching?


menu/info/projector info

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Cacitems4sale

platinum00 said:


> menu/info/projector info
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Ahh got it. Looks like my BR player (Sony ubp 700) is upscaling to 4K 24 4-4-4. I turn off BR upscaling and the projector doesn’t upscale to 4K.


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## platinum00

if it's not a 4k source, check menu/image/image enhancement/4k enhancement.

Make sure that is turned on

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Cacitems4sale said:


> Ahh got it. Looks like my BR player (Sony ubp 700) is upscaling to 4K 24 4-4-4. I turn off BR upscaling and the projector doesn’t upscale to 4K.


When the projector is NOT receiving a 4K signal, you can go to the MENU>Image>Image Enhancement>4k Enhancement to turn on 4K Enhancement.


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## Cacitems4sale

Did that but it doesn’t upscale


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## platinum00

What leads you to believe it is not upscaling?

The input signal will still say 1080 because it is.

If the 4K enhancement is greyed out it's because the input signal is already 4k. If it is not greyed out and you have 4k enhancement on it is upscaling.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Cacitems4sale

I thought that the upscaling will upscale 1080 to 4K and that would reflect in the projector info with 3840x2160. I get that when I upscale from BR player but when I turn the upscaling off on BR player and turn on 4K enhancement on projector, the info screen still says 1080. Please let me know what I’m misunderstanding.


----------



## fredworld

Cacitems4sale said:


> I thought that the upscaling will upscale 1080 to 4K and that would reflect in the projector info with 3840x2160. I get that when I upscale from BR player but when I turn the upscaling off on BR player and turn on 4K enhancement on projector, the info screen still says 1080. Please let me know what I’m misunderstanding.


It IS confusing. Let me try to explain as I understand it as simply as possible. First and foremost, the Epson 5050UB is a native 1080P projector. So, it can't put out a 4k signal. It can accept a 4k signal but it breaks it down to 1080P and then pixel-shifts two 1080P signals (doing so actually displays 1/2 of the 4k signal, the other 1/2 is ignored and never seen). The USER INFO screen shows what the projector is being fed. If it's being fed a 4K signal the INFO screen will show 3840x2160, then in the IMAGE Enhancement screen 4K Enhancement will be grayed out and not usable because the projector is already getting a 4K signal. I hope this helps.


----------



## platinum00

also.. you may find your bluray player does a better job of upscaling than the 5050. You just need to play some good content and try both ways. The 5050 does a good job but there are surely players out there that will do a better job.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## djsvetljo

citsur86 said:


> Has anyone used 3D with this projector? Is the image bright enough even in a completely dark room? If so, what glasses are you using? I can't seem to find the Epson V12H548006 glasses anywhere.


Slight off-topic - my first reaction with 6050ub that there is a 3-dimensioniality perceived effect with the 2D image. I've been reading about this but until experienced in person it's hard to understand it. The good contrast, bright and popping colors, sharp lens, huge screen etc. I don't think I ever had such reaction in a commercial theater space.


----------



## citsur86

Are there settings preferable for gaming with the 5050UB?


----------



## MrMonkeeMan

Has anyone watched WW84 on HBO Max specifically on an Nvidia Shield? It's totally unwatchable as everybody's skin is green like the Hulk. It's the only movie on the HBO app that does that as well. I tried a downloaded version on Plex and it didn't do that either.

Edit: after going back and looking again, the skin color is actually purple, not green.


----------



## Sudz20

Cacitems4sale said:


> All, I'm sure many of you have updated your projector with the most recent Firmware update (1.04). I tried downloading the update to my USB last night and did not receive any notifications of it downloading to the USB. I'm using Chrome and uncertain if it's the web browser or something else causing this. I'm downloading from this URL Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US
> Please advise


Any luck? I can't get the firmware to update


----------



## Sudz20

Same issue


Cacitems4sale said:


> Ok I finally got the link to work and download onto the usb drive. Had to call Epson and they said there is an issue with the file download from their site. They sent me a file to use, but when I upload the firmware on the projector I get the 3 status lights like the instructions say but they only stay on for about 5 seconds and then I get a blue blinking light for about 3 seconds and the projector just stays in the On mode. In other words, it is not updating the firmware. The lights are supposed to stay on for around 75 secs. Please advise


Same issue on my end... has it been verified that the firmware link is not the correct file?


----------



## fredworld

Sudz20 said:


> Same issue
> 
> Same issue on my end... has it been verified that the firmware link is not the correct file?


Is your USB formatted as FAT 32? If not, it should be. If it is, then be sure that you are following the directions for installation precisely.


----------



## Sudz20

fredworld said:


> Is your USB formatted as FAT 32? If not, it should be. If it is, then be sure that you are following the directions for installation precisely.


FAT32 8 gig USB, just the file "EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin" USB plugged into the back, unplug the projector, hold the power button... Plug in projector &... three orange light light up for a second, the blue power-light blinks 3 times and the projector shuts off?


----------



## fredworld

Sudz20 said:


> FAT32 8 gig USB, just the file "EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin" USB plugged into the back, unplug the projector, hold the power button... Plug in projector &... three orange light light up for a second, the blue power-light blinks 3 times and the projector shuts off?


You might be holding the power button too long. You should be releasing as soon as the indicators light. Also, plug in the usb AFTER the projector is unplugged from power source.
EDIT: my FW is: EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin from 11/12/2020


----------



## Cacitems4sale

fredworld said:


> You might be holding the power button too long. You should be releasing as soon as the indicators light. Also, plug in the usb AFTER the projector is unplugged from power source.
> EDIT: my FW is: EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin from 11/12/2020





Sudz20 said:


> FAT32 8 gig USB, just the file "EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin" USB plugged into the back, unplug the projector, hold the power button... Plug in projector &... three orange light light up for a second, the blue power-light blinks 3 times and the projector shuts off?


http://epsonservice.goepson.com/downloads/VI/Firmware/EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin
Above is the link I used when I had called Epson. I recommend calling customer service and they will walk you through the troubleshooting. I learned that the driver I used was too large and needed to make sure there were no other files on it. That is not called out in the instructions. The drive format mentioned above of course is also important.


----------



## fredworld

Cacitems4sale said:


> http://epsonservice.goepson.com/downloads/VI/Firmware/EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin
> Above is the link I used when I had called Epson. I recommend calling customer service and they will walk you through the troubleshooting. I learned that the driver I used was too large and needed to make sure there were no other files on it. That is not called out in the instructions. The drive format mentioned above of course is also important.


That link doesn't work at my end.
BTW, I checked the FW on the projector's INFO menu. The FW I noted in my earlier post is the name of the file. The projector shows as in the attached photo. The 1.04 FW only applies to HDMI1. Also, I use a 64gb USB with only the FW on it to load the FW to the projector with no issues.


----------



## BIC2

A couple of other things to check on firmware update. Make sure you are in the USB port. There is an optical HDMI port that looks like and fits the USB thumb drive (ask me how I know). 

When I first used a SanDisk Cruzer, which you slide the connector out of the case with your thumb while inserting into port, there was not enough space to get my hand in there for a firm connection. Switching to another type thumb drive solved this.


----------



## MomentumMike

I calibrated my 5050ub using my laptop, HCFR and madTPG. I think it went well, but when I watched Captain America using my blu-ray player, a lot of black detail was lost. So, lesson learned - the source doesn't matter a little, it matters a lot. (Or, I screwed something up.) Now, I'm calibrating for the blu-ray player using Ted's LightSpace CMS Calibration Media Files. It's going well. I'm streaming them from a desktop PC to the blu-ray while measuring with a laptop, HCFR and a Colormunki Display. Assuming that I'm watching all Rec. 709 material, should this single calibration for the blu-ray suffice regardless of whether I'm using it to watch a disc, stream Netflix, etc.?


----------



## CZ Eddie

CZ Eddie said:


> when viewing things like text, such as a webpage, I get a lot of flickering. And it seems to be color changing back and forth. Like changing from warm to cool and somewhere in between, back and forth, over and over. Causing flickering.
> 
> Anyone else seeing this behavior?
> I have had it with two different 5050's and I have tried disabling auto-IRIS but that didn't help.
> 
> Anything else in the settings that may somehow be responsible?
> I tried to find an auto-temperature control but didn't see anything.
> 
> And I can't find any relatable settings in the Nvidia driver control panel.


Switching from Econo to Medium power consumption has resolved my random color temperature-shifting. 
I am not happy that I experienced this issue with two different 5050UB's and have been able to narrow the issue down to being the 5050UB itself. 
I experienced this issue with sub-100 hour bulbs on both projectors and have about 600 hours now on my current projector.


----------



## MomentumMike

CZ Eddie said:


> Switching from Econo to Medium power consumption has resolved my random color temperature-shifting.
> I am not happy that I experienced this issue with two different 5050UB's and have been able to narrow the issue down to being the 5050UB itself.
> I experienced this issue with sub-100 hour bulbs on both projectors and have about 600 hours now on my current projector.


I have definitely seen this while calibrating, but not while watching movies or satellite TV. The couple of times I tried, switching to Medium and back to ECO made the flickering stop - not that that’s an actual solution.


----------



## fredworld

CZ Eddie said:


> Switching from Econo to Medium power consumption has resolved my random color temperature-shifting.
> I am not happy that I experienced this issue with two different 5050UB's and have been able to narrow the issue down to being the 5050UB itself.
> I experienced this issue with sub-100 hour bulbs on both projectors and have about 600 hours now on my current projector.





MomentumMike said:


> I have definitely seen this while calibrating, but not while watching movies or satellite TV. The couple of times I tried, switching to Medium and back to ECO made the flickering stop - not that that’s an actual solution.


Interesting. I had a slight flicker develop in the image last year after about 1000 hours, most noticeable on bright scenes. It was slight but obvious and couldn't be ignored once seen. If I didn't make any adjustments then the flickering continued throughout an entire movie. It would resolve, albeit temporarily by turning off the projector, disconnecting the projector from its source, and then turning the projector on and projecting without any source connected. 
Also, just turning off the projector, disconnecting the HDMI cable, reconnecting it and turning the projector back on would fix the issue, again, temporarily, until next use.
It was a brightness flicker. No black outs. It was very slight. More noticeable on broad bright scenes than in scenes with varying brightness levels.
Finally, one night I had two episodes of the "flicker." The first time it was after 45 minutes of disc playback. I resolved it as usual by turning off the projector, disconnecting and reconnecting the HDMI cable and turning the projector back on. Then after only 30 minutes it recurred. I froze the scene and studied the flicker on the still image and decided that it looked like a toggling or fluttering like when changing between ECO mode and Medium lamp mode. So I changed the lamp mode to Medium and it stopped. I had been running the projector in ECO mode. 
Epson decided to replace the lamp. So, with the new lamp I run the projector on Medium Lamp mode and I've had no issues since. However, there are less than 900 hours on the new lamp at this writing.


----------



## CZ Eddie

fredworld said:


> Interesting. I had a slight flicker develop in the image last year after about 1000 hours, most noticeable on bright scenes. It was slight but obvious and couldn't be ignored once seen. If I didn't make any adjustments then the flickering continued throughout an entire movie. It would resolve, albeit temporarily by turning off the projector, disconnecting the projector from its source, and then turning the projector on and projecting without any source connected.
> Also, just turning off the projector, disconnecting the HDMI cable, reconnecting it and turning the projector back on would fix the issue, again, temporarily, until next use.
> It was a brightness flicker. No black outs. It was very slight. More noticeable on broad bright scenes than in scenes with varying brightness levels.
> Finally, one night I had two episodes of the "flicker." The first time it was after 45 minutes of disc playback. I resolved it as usual by turning off the projector, disconnecting and reconnecting the HDMI cable and turning the projector back on. Then after only 30 minutes it recurred. I froze the scene and studied the flicker on the still image and decided that it looked like a toggling or fluttering like when changing between ECO mode and Medium lamp mode. So I changed the lamp mode to Medium and it stopped. I had been running the projector in ECO mode.
> Epson decided to replace the lamp. So, with the new lamp I run the projector on Medium Lamp mode and I've had no issues since. However, there are less than 900 hours on the new lamp at this writing.


Yep, the flicker issue is discussed all over the Internet for Epson projectors, not just 5050UB.
And the concenus seems to be changing from Eco to Medium and then back, to make it stop flickering for a short time.
That is why I tried the Medium trick for my color-shifting issue. 
Which perhaps some people might consider to be a flicker. 
But I can clearly see it go warm/cool color temps, back and forth when this happens. 
Sometimes it's barely noticeable and sometimes it's kind of bad. 
Seems to be bright scenes that this happens. Perhaps the current draw for the bright scenes is too much for Eco mode.


----------



## MomentumMike

CZ Eddie said:


> Yep, the flicker issue is discussed all over the Internet for Epson projectors, not just 5050UB.
> And the concenus seems to be changing from Eco to Medium and then back, to make it stop flickering for a short time.
> That is why I tried the Medium trick for my color-shifting issue.
> Which perhaps some people might consider to be a flicker.
> But I can clearly see it go warm/cool color temps, back and forth when this happens.
> Sometimes it's barely noticeable and sometimes it's kind of bad.
> Seems to be bright scenes that this happens. Perhaps the current draw for the bright scenes is too much for Eco mode.


For me, there was a color temp component to the problem. I was concerned about it potentially causing a poor calibration.


----------



## CZ Eddie

MomentumMike said:


> For me, there was a color temp component to the problem. I was concerned about it potentially causing a poor calibration.


How did it work out for you?
I've got an i1 Display Pro still sitting in the box while I have had trouble sitting down to learn HCFR to calibrate for the first time. 
When the issue happens for me, it's usually while I'm surfing the Internet, with white page backgrounds.
But I can still see the problem if I quickly go back to the movie I had paused. It's not easy to see, but I can see.


----------



## MomentumMike

CZ Eddie said:


> How did it work out for you?
> I've got an i1 Display Pro still sitting in the box while I have had trouble sitting down to learn HCFR to calibrate for the first time.
> When the issue happens for me, it's usually while I'm surfing the Internet, with white page backgrounds.
> But I can still see the problem if I quickly go back to the movie I had paused. It's not easy to see, but I can see.


Just finished calibrating and now started serious watching (in ECO mode). The bulb probably has less than 100 hours on it. I won’t be using my PC often, but I’ll be looking for this problem from other sources, hoping that I don’t see it again.


----------



## MomentumMike

CZ Eddie said:


> How did it work out for you?
> I've got an i1 Display Pro still sitting in the box while I have had trouble sitting down to learn HCFR to calibrate for the first time.
> When the issue happens for me, it's usually while I'm surfing the Internet, with white page backgrounds.
> But I can still see the problem if I quickly go back to the movie I had paused. It's not easy to see, but I can see.


I watched the first installment of the Chris Pine Star Trek movies in 4K HDR last night. I noticed the problem about 45 minutes in. I switched to Medium power and the picture was fine for the remainder of the movie. This means that, for me, the ECO power mode that causes the Epson to vacillate between gammas(?) is of no use. I am going to recalibrate for Medium power. It's a bummer, but considering the seeming prevalence of the issue, I doubt it's worth pursuing an alternative solution.


----------



## vlayton

My 5030UB has been flickering in Eco mode for several years. Would run with full lamp for an hour or 2, then switch back to Eco. This works until the flickering inevitably starts again. Starting week 4 with the 5050 and am staying in Medium rather than Eco. You can't NOT notice the flickering. Pureland Supply bulbs on the 5030. Not sure if that's related but can't count it out.


----------



## SteveS78

Can anyone let me know how far from the back wall the butt of the 5050UB can be without causing issues and/or overheating?

Is 2-4 inches okay? Or does it need 6 inches or more?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

SteveS78 said:


> Can anyone let me know how far from the back wall the butt of the 5050UB can be without causing issues and/or overheating?
> 
> Is 2-4 inches okay? Or does it need 6 inches or more?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The overwhelming majority of the heat is blown out of the front vent. Likewise the intake is via the other front vent. I never felt any heat from the rear. I think you should be fine if the front vents are unobstructed and as long as you have enough clearance for a safe bend of your cables. I have no measurements to quantify this statement. It's purely based on observation.


----------



## fredworld

vlayton said:


> My 5030UB has been flickering in Eco mode for several years. Would run with full lamp for an hour or 2, then switch back to Eco. This works until the flickering inevitably starts again. Starting week 4 with the 5050 and am staying in Medium rather than Eco. You can't NOT notice the flickering. Pureland Supply bulbs on the 5030. Not sure if that's related but can't count it out.


Epson decided to replace my lamp which has so far resolved *my flickering issue* but I do run the projector in MEDIUM mode since installing the replacement lamp.


----------



## biglen

SteveS78 said:


> Can anyone let me know how far from the back wall the butt of the 5050UB can be without causing issues and/or overheating?
> 
> Is 2-4 inches okay? Or does it need 6 inches or more?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


My 5050 is right up against the back wall of the box I built, and I have zero heat issues. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## CZ Eddie

vlayton said:


> My 5030UB has been flickering in Eco mode for several years. Would run with full lamp for an hour or 2, then switch back to Eco. This works until the flickering inevitably starts again. Starting week 4 with the 5050 and am staying in Medium rather than Eco. You can't NOT notice the flickering. Pureland Supply bulbs on the 5030. Not sure if that's related but can't count it out.


My color flickering has been with two brand spanking new 5050UB's (not refurb) shipped to me directly from Epson.
So while a 3rd party might introduce flickering of its own, it is not the cause of the color shift flickering that I have been seeing.

Mine goes away 100% on Medium and always comes back at some point when I shift back to Eco.


----------



## CZ Eddie

Interesting....

------------------------
"These Epson projectors, however, have three power modes. There’s also Medium power, in the middle. Medium mode, by comparison, is almost 25% less bright than High lamp, and almost 15% brighter than Eco. As a result, most folks should rely on Medium power except when max brightness is needed. We have noticed over the years, that when a lamp is driven at roughly 65% of full power or less, there’s a tendency to see some occasional, minor flickering – best avoided!
We calibrated our “Best” 4K/HDR/P3 mode at full power (High) lamp, because when viewing HDR we generally want all the lumens we can muster (all else being close to equal). That said, because there is a big difference in fan noise, I do drop from Full power to medium at night when the room is fully darkened, for a lot of my HDR viewing."
------------------------





Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Review - Performance: Brightness, Sharpness - Projector Reviews


[...]Read More...




www.projectorreviews.com


----------



## CZ Eddie

MomentumMike said:


> I am going to recalibrate for Medium power. It's a bummer, but considering the seeming prevalence of the issue, I doubt it's worth pursuing an alternative solution.


Geez, all that work for nothing.


----------



## nefrina

CZ Eddie said:


> My color flickering has been with two brand spanking new 5050UB's (not refurb) shipped to me directly from Epson.
> So while a 3rd party might introduce flickering of its own, it is not the cause of the color shift flickering that I have been seeing.
> 
> Mine goes away 100% on Medium and always comes back at some point when I shift back to Eco.


all UHP lamps are prone to this happening. switching to high power for some time and back to low will temporarily make it stop, but the problem will always return once it starts doing this. the only way around the flickering is to leave the projector on full lamp power. additionally this problem is not specific to epson projectors.


----------



## GuilhermeR

Hello,
I am a newbie here, but first, I wish you all a great 2021.
I have been struggling with a very strange and recurrent problem on my HT system. When watching a 4K HDR Dolby Atmos movie (either a DVD or AppleTV) on the projector, the image disappears, a message is displayed informing there is no HDMI Signal, and after a few seconds (5-10 seconds) the images returns. It happens several times during the movie.
Strangely, when I connect the video source to the directly to the projector, bypassing the processor/receiver, the problem disappears. It also disappears when the TV cable is disconnected from the processor/receiver.
I have tried splitter, balun, system updates (except Epson), you name it…..
The system has the following configuration: 
1 Marantz AV8805
2 Marantz MM 8077
Epson Projector 6050UB (connected via HDMI to AV8805)
Sony TV XBR-75X855D series X85D (connected via HDMI to AV8805)
13.1 loudspeakers
AppleTV 4k
Cable TV
Other equipment (Oppo 203, Cable TV, etc)
The projector is connected to Marantz AV through a HDMI CINNAMON 12.5M cable, while the TV and AppleTV are connected through HDMI KRAMER cables, between 1,5M and 7 M (TV).
Except the TV and Oppo, all equipment, cables, AppleTV and etc were bought 3 months ago. 
Do you guys could help me?
All the best to you all!
Guilherme


----------



## Luminated67

Have you tried disconnecting your TV from the AVR and see if it stops. I recall this problem being mentioned over on the 5050/6050 thread. But it would be a hunting session to find it and if you want to do this I would suggest starting with the most recent posts and work your way back as it's only a few weeks ago it came up.


----------



## GuilhermeR

Luminated67 said:


> Have you tried disconnecting your TV from the AVR and see if it stops. I recall this problem being mentioned over on the 5050/6050 thread. But it would be a hunting session to find it and if you want to do this I would suggest starting with the most recent posts and work your way back as it's only a few weeks ago it came up.


Yes, I have tried and found out the problem disappeared if the TV is not connected to the processor/receiver. Is there a way to keep both, TV and projector, connected to the processor/receiver without having the problem?


----------



## fredworld

GuilhermeR said:


> Yes, I have tried and found out the problem disappeared if the TV is not connected to the processor/receiver. Is there a way to keep both, TV and projector, connected to the processor/receiver without having the problem?


Are you running firmware version 1.04 on the projector? Epson told me that FW 1.04 "Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it."


----------



## MomentumMike

CZ Eddie said:


> Geez, all that work for nothing.


But wow, I’ve learned a lot. My wife shakes her head each day when she finds out I’ve been messing with the projector until 2 am.


----------



## GuilhermeR

fredworld said:


> Are you running firmware version 1.04 on the projector? Epson told me that FW 1.04 "Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it."


No, I am not, because I did not upgrade it yet. Do you, by any chance, have the link to it and could share?


----------



## fredworld

GuilhermeR said:


> No, I am not, because I did not upgrade it yet. Do you, by any chance, have the link to it and could share?


You should bookmark this: Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US 
Follow *the instructions* precisely. 
Be sure you download the update onto a FAT32 formatted USB that's empty of anything but the FW.
Unplug the projector from the power source.
Insert the USB to USB port-A
Hold down the Power button then connect the power cord while still holding down the projector's Power button.
Release the Power button as soon as all the indicator lights come on (update mode). 
When the update finishes in about 75 seconds the projector will turn off.


----------



## GuilhermeR

fredworld said:


> You should bookmark this: Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US
> Follow *the instructions* precisely.
> Be sure you download the update onto a FAT32 formatted USB that's empty of anything but the FW.
> Unplug the projector from the power source.
> Insert the USB to USB port-A
> Hold down the Power button then connect the power cord while still holding down the projector's Power button.
> Release the Power button as soon as all the indicator lights come on (update mode).
> When the update finishes in about 75 seconds the projector will turn off.


Thanks a lot! I will update the firmware and hopefully the problem will be resolved. 
best


----------



## Vargen01

GuilhermeR said:


> Hello,
> I am a newbie here, but first, I wish you all a great 2021.
> I have been struggling with a very strange and recurrent problem on my HT system. When watching a 4K HDR Dolby Atmos movie (either a DVD or AppleTV) on the projector, the image disappears, a message is displayed informing there is no HDMI Signal, and after a few seconds (5-10 seconds) the images returns. It happens several times during the movie.
> Strangely, when I connect the video source to the directly to the projector, bypassing the processor/receiver, the problem disappears. It also disappears when the TV cable is disconnected from the processor/receiver.
> I have tried splitter, balun, system updates (except Epson), you name it…..
> The system has the following configuration:
> 1 Marantz AV8805
> 2 Marantz MM 8077
> Epson Projector 6050UB (connected via HDMI to AV8805)
> Sony TV XBR-75X855D series X85D (connected via HDMI to AV8805)
> 13.1 loudspeakers
> AppleTV 4k
> Cable TV
> Other equipment (Oppo 203, Cable TV, etc)
> The projector is connected to Marantz AV through a HDMI CINNAMON 12.5M cable, while the TV and AppleTV are connected through HDMI KRAMER cables, between 1,5M and 7 M (TV).
> Except the TV and Oppo, all equipment, cables, AppleTV and etc were bought 3 months ago.
> Do you guys could help me?
> All the best to you all!
> Guilherme


I had a similar problem with my AVR (Yamaha) where I have a Sony TV on HDMI 1 and 6050 on HDMI 2. It turned out that I had the setting HDMIout 1 + 2 on AVR, so both TV and projector at the same time. When I changed to HDMIout 2, only projector the problems disappeared.


----------



## GuilhermeR

Vargen01 said:


> I had a similar problem with my AVR (Yamaha) where I have a Sony TV on HDMI 1 and 6050 on HDMI 2. It turned out that I had the setting HDMIout 1 + 2 on AVR, so both TV and projector at the same time. When I changed to HDMIout 2, only projector the problems disappeared.


Hi, this is exactly the problem. So, if I understood you correctly, the TV is no longer connected to your AVR, only the 6050. Or, is there a solution to have both connected to the AVR?


----------



## Vargen01

GuilhermeR said:


> Hi, this is exactly the problem. So, if I understood you correctly, the TV is no longer connected to your AVR, only the 6050. Or, is there a solution to have both connected to the AVR?


I still have the TV connected, but it's important that I choose the right HDMI output on the AVR and not the "output" which means that AVR sends image to both HDMI outputs at the same time (HDMI output 1+2). I have to choose HDMI output 1 or 2.


----------



## GuilhermeR

How do I do that?


----------



## fredworld

GuilhermeR said:


> How do I do that?


Try setting up your Marantz 8805 with these settings as pictured:









Alternatively, your 12.5m HDMI cable's length might be the issue creating handshake issues. You might need a powered HDMI cable.


----------



## JoelM

Can someone help me with 3D and Plex on a Nvidia Shied with this projector? I have a Denon and have a shield which is going to the receiver. I started a few different 3Ds to try with both MakeMKV and DVDFab. I just get a normal image watching on any device. When I force 3D on the 5050 I get two images within the picture but the line up is way off. I tried reducing the resolution on the shield to 1080p and it doesn't change anything. Am I missing something? It would be nice to include these to my NAS. Thanks


----------



## Brajesh

Shield doesn’t support 3D, not MVC framepacked rips, only side-by-side and top/bottom. Suggest a Vero 4K+ or Zidoo player.


----------



## platinum00

For the limited 3D use most will have. Buying a used 3D bluray player might be the most cost effective solution for you.. I picked up a Sony S5100 for $25 off eBay. It plays all my 3D movies without a problem.

I don't have any disk media, use the shield for all content besides 3D and use the S5100 for the few (20 or so) 3D movies I have. They play from the USD drive I have hooked up to the Shield.



Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

JoelM said:


> Can someone help me with 3D and Plex on a Nvidia Shied with this projector? I have a Denon and have a shield which is going to the receiver. I started a few different 3Ds to try with both MakeMKV and DVDFab. I just get a normal image watching on any device. When I force 3D on the 5050 I get two images within the picture but the line up is way off. I tried reducing the resolution on the shield to 1080p and it doesn't change anything. Am I missing something? It would be nice to include these to my NAS. Thanks


Is this your first time watching 3D on your Epson, if so maybe the 3D is turned off in its settings.









Preparing To View 3D Images - Epson H928A User Manual [Page 45]


Epson H928A Manual Online: Preparing To View 3D Images. To view 3D images, be sure to prepare a pair of commercially available 3D Glasses with an active shutter system that supports radio waves (RF/Bluetooth) communication system in advance. Check the following before viewing 3D...




www.manualslib.com


----------



## JoelM

Luminated67 said:


> Is this your first time watching 3D on your Epson, if so maybe the 3D is turned off in its settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Preparing To View 3D Images - Epson H928A User Manual [Page 45]
> 
> 
> Epson H928A Manual Online: Preparing To View 3D Images. To view 3D images, be sure to prepare a pair of commercially available 3D Glasses with an active shutter system that supports radio waves (RF/Bluetooth) communication system in advance. Check the following before viewing 3D...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.manualslib.com


No I forced 3D, the image is unwatchable but looks like it is trying to make an attempt. My 4k3D plays the movies perfect.



Brajesh said:


> Shield doesn’t support 3D, not MVC framepacked rips, only side-by-side and top/bottom. Suggest a Vero 4K+ or Zidoo player.



If I put Plex on my Sony 4k3Dplayer will that work?

Edit: Nevermind, somehow I thought I could get apps on my player but I guess they are just preloaded choices.


----------



## Jared Moe

Question about 4k upscaling. I have the 5050 projector as well as a Pioneer VSX-933. Both can do the upscaling but not sure which one o should leave on and which to turn off. What do others think would enhance the image better?


----------



## platinum00

Which one looks better to you.. that's the one to use.

With that said. AVRs are typically pretty bad at upscaling, even higher end ones.

I would upscale at the projector unless you have a good player that can do a better job.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Usfighter

Hello everyone. Long time lurker here. I recently purchased a 6050ub paired with a Denon 4600h avr and Stewart 140 firehawk screen 2.4 ratio. Love the picture this throws but I have a couple issues...

First is I am using an HDMI extender bought off Amazon the No Hassle brand 4k HDR 18g model but only 4k will pass through no HDR. I had wired my house when building in 2002 with cat 5e and fiber so didnt expect any issues. So when HDR was a no go I bought a 25 ft cat 6 patch cable to bypass the 3 patch cables for the under floor route (2 cables going from wall to units themselves at each end of room and the in floor from wall to wall. After using 25 foot cable still same problem. Next step I moved my 4k uhd player to projector fed it directly and worked fine. HDR worked. I have a 77 lg oled so I basically used the HDMI extender to send the hdmi to tv and that also worked. This tells me the projector does not like "talking" through the extender connection. I have not updated the firmware or tried hdmi port 2 on the projector thought I'd ask here. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Second issue is I am getting reflection off the tv behind the screen. It is a microperf at screen. If you shift your view angle it helps but wondering if there is a more elegant solution like a motorized blackout cloth that could come down with the screen?

Thank you!
Jeff Miller


----------



## aprikh1

Hi Folks, 

I have recently upgraded from my 5030 to a 5050, and it’s been a mixed bag. Mainly the lens memory and the Auto Iris are giving me grief. A couple of questions to the forum, if I may: 

1. When you hit the Blank button, is the Iris supposed to close all the way resulting in an unlit screen? The black levels on my 5050 are not as good as the 5030, and I can’t wrap my head around how that’s possible. I have Auto Iris set to High. 

2. Lens Memory is not repeatable. I have read this thread extensively and ensured that when programming the lens shift memory that I avoid zigzagging and backtracking. The main issue is when I switch from 2.35 memory to 16:9. It seems with this large change, there is always some degree of variation. 

Thanks a bunch! 

Cheers, Alex


----------



## fredworld

Usfighter said:


> Hello everyone. Long time lurker here. I recently purchased a 6050ub paired with a Denon 4600h avr and Stewart 140 firehawk screen 2.4 ratio. Love the picture this throws but I have a couple issues...
> 
> First is I am using an HDMI extender bought off Amazon the No Hassle brand 4k HDR 18g model but only 4k will pass through no HDR. I had wired my house when building in 2002 with cat 5e and fiber so didnt expect any issues. So when HDR was a no go I bought a 25 ft cat 6 patch cable to bypass the 3 patch cables for the under floor route (2 cables going from wall to units themselves at each end of room and the in floor from wall to wall. After using 25 foot cable still same problem. Next step I moved my 4k uhd player to projector fed it directly and worked fine. HDR worked. I have a 77 lg oled so I basically used the HDMI extender to send the hdmi to tv and that also worked. This tells me the projector does not like "talking" through the extender connection. I have not updated the firmware or tried hdmi port 2 on the projector thought I'd ask here. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Second issue is I am getting reflection off the tv behind the screen. It is a microperf at screen. If you shift your view angle it helps but wondering if there is a more elegant solution like a motorized blackout cloth that could come down with the screen?
> 
> Thank you!
> Jeff Miller


I would try the simplest things to see if any work.
First, I'd update the 6050's FW to 1.04. Epson told me, "_Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected._"
If the FW update doesn't help, I'd remove the extender from the equation and change out the cable from the Denon to the 6050 with either a *Fiber Optic* or *Redmere Elite from MyCableMart* or a similar ones from *Blue Jeans*. I'm using a 35' run of the Redmere between my Marantz AV7704 and 5050 projector without issues.
As for the TV reflection, I can only offer a low tech solution of draping a *black speaker grill cloth* over the TV, keep it folded on top of the TV when the TV is in use and drop it over the TV when using the projector.
I hope one of these suggestions helps.


----------



## fredworld

aprikh1 said:


> Hi Folks,
> 
> I have recently upgraded from my 5030 to a 5050, and it’s been a mixed bag. Mainly the lens memory and the Auto Iris are giving me grief. A couple of questions to the forum, if I may:
> 
> 1. When you hit the Blank button, is the Iris supposed to close all the way resulting in an unlit screen? The black levels on my 5050 are not as good as the 5030, and I can’t wrap my head around how that’s possible. I have Auto Iris set to High.
> 
> 2. Lens Memory is not repeatable. I have read this thread extensively and ensured that when programming the lens shift memory that I avoid zigzagging and backtracking. The main issue is when I switch from 2.35 memory to 16:9. It seems with this large change, there is always some degree of variation.
> 
> Thanks a bunch!
> 
> Cheers, Alex


Alex, I don't know if this will help your Lens memory issues, but are you following the specific suggestions in *this post*?
You should mention the size of your screen. The larger the screen the larger the margin of error will be. Mine is relatively conservatively sized and the lens memories' results are spot on and repeatable.
As for the AUTO IRIS, I keep mine at OFF (CORRECTION: edited from MEDIUM, should've said OFF) without issues.
Also, have you done any calibration? I used the basic set up from the* Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc* with very acceptable results in the Digital Cinema Mode. At what MODE is your projector set?


----------



## aprikh1

Hi fredworld, 

Thanks for your response. "Yep", i followed the 15 click advice to the letter. It helped, but there is still a fair bit of variation when changing lens memories. My screen is relatively small, it's a 110" Cinemascope ALR motorized Stewart. 

As far as calibration, "No" not yet. I have simply copied over a chunk of my previous settings from my 5030, along with some recommended settings from this thread. My issue, is that with the 5030, when the screen was blank, the 5030 iris would completely close, and my screen would fade into the blackness of the room. With the 5050, the screen "glows" when it's blank. So I am checking to see if that's normal, and if my expectations for the Iris to completely close are realistic. 

Thanks a bunch!

Cheers, Alex


----------



## Usfighter

fredworld said:


> I would try the simplest things to see if any work.
> First, I'd update the 6050's FW to 1.04. Epson told me, "_Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected._"
> If the FW update doesn't help, I'd remove the extender from the equation and change out the cable from the Denon to the 6050 with either a *Fiber Optic* or *Redmere Elite from MyCableMart* or a similar ones from *Blue Jeans*. I'm using a 35' run of the Redmere between my Marantz AV7704 and 5050 projector without issues.
> As for the TV reflection, I can only offer a low tech solution of draping a *black speaker grill cloth* over the TV, keep it folded on top of the TV when the TV is in use and drop it over the TV when using the projector.
> I hope one of these suggestions helps.


Thank you for the quick response. I will try those suggestions - just frustrating that it works with my tv fine.

On another note how do most of you with scope screens and zoom method handle changing aspect ratios like Nolan is famous for? So frustrating only some parts are Imax but don't want to zoom to fit when most is 2.4 and deal with bars. Also don't like the overshooting when zoomed in 2.4 - I know these are the only two options but looking for suggestions! Thanks in advance!


----------



## fredworld

Usfighter said:


> Thank you for the quick response. I will try those suggestions - just frustrating that it works with my tv fine.
> 
> On another note how do most of you with scope screens and zoom method handle changing aspect ratios like Nolan is famous for? So frustrating only some parts are Imax but don't want to zoom to fit when most is 2.4 and deal with bars. Also don't like the overshooting when zoomed in 2.4 - I know these are the only two options but looking for suggestions! Thanks in advance!


This has been addressed a number of times. For my latest practice on it see *this post*. Everything is a compromise....


----------



## jaredmwright

aprikh1 said:


> Hi fredworld,
> 
> Thanks for your response. "Yep", i followed the 15 click advice to the letter. It helped, but there is still a fair bit of variation when changing lens memories. My screen is relatively small, it's a 110" Cinemascope ALR motorized Stewart.
> 
> As far as calibration, "No" not yet. I have simply copied over a chunk of my previous settings from my 5030, along with some recommended settings from this thread. My issue, is that with the 5030, when the screen was blank, the 5030 iris would completely close, and my screen would fade into the blackness of the room. With the 5050, the screen "glows" when it's blank. So I am checking to see if that's normal, and if my expectations for the Iris to completely close are realistic.
> 
> Thanks a bunch!
> 
> Cheers, Alex


I traveled your path and came from a 5030 also to a 6050 (same for the most part). I haven't experienced the glow and lack of fading to pure black. I have the Iris set on and it works great, I also run my lamp in medium power mode. I project onto a Carl's Screen at 175" in a light controlled room. Let me know if I can help further. A proper calibration is in order by you are someone who can, I recommend S&M.


----------



## mauro145

platinum00 said:


> For the limited 3D use most will have. Buying a used 3D bluray player might be the most cost effective solution for you.. I picked up a Sony S5100 for $25 off eBay. It plays all my 3D movies without a problem.
> 
> I don't have any disk media, use the shield for all content besides 3D and use the S5100 for the few (20 or so) 3D movies I have. They play from the USD drive I have hooked up to the Shield.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


I have played 3d videos with Kodi on shield. I had to change the resolution to 1080p on Kodi and force the 3d mode on the projector.

Enviado desde mi CPH2069 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Usfighter

Just wanted to update my situation with my HDMI extender and 6050 with problems getting 4K to work and no luck with HDR.. Spoke with No Hassle AV and apparently even though I ordered the 100meter extender they shipped 500 foot extenders as an upgrade. Some other user had the same issues as I (same projector) and when he exchanged for the 100m version it worked fine. If you are looking for an extender with this projector this could be a solution. Will update when I receive my replacement and try it. Fingers crossed and hoping for the best!

Jeff


----------



## fredworld

Usfighter said:


> Just wanted to update my situation with my HDMI extender and 6050 with problems getting 4K to work and no luck with HDR.. Spoke with No Hassle AV and apparently even though I ordered the 100meter extender they shipped 500 foot extenders as an upgrade. Some other user had the same issues as I (same projector) and when he exchanged for the 100m version it worked fine. If you are looking for an extender with this projector this could be a solution. Will update when I receive my replacement and try it. Fingers crossed and hoping for the best!
> 
> Jeff


Jeff, would you mind explaining why it requires a 100m extender?


----------



## Usfighter

fredworld said:


> Jeff, would you mind explaining why it requires a 100m extender?


I don't need that much distance but the extender had all the features I was looking for and had excellent reviews. I have a Panasonic DP-UB9000 through a Denon 4700H AVR to an LG TV and the 6050UB. Projector is on the far wall and cat5e wiring was in the house when built with a drop near the projector and another at source. Definitive Technology XTR-60s for LRC. DT Sub. Picture is before everything was in place. As you can see still have to run wires for screen in the wall. If you look closely you can see the projector sitting on top of my old RPTV in the reflection on the TV. Projector has since been mounted properly. Waiting for the equipment rack. Screen is Stewart 140" 2.4:1 Firehawk.











Jeff 
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...=2ahUKEwjK1JrztIXuAhXCnOAKHcsgCpQQ0Qx6BAgGEAE


----------



## fredworld

Usfighter said:


> I don't need that much distance but the extender had all the features I was looking for and had excellent reviews. I have a Panasonic DP-UB9000 through a Denon 4700H AVR to an LG TV and the 6050UB. Projector is on the far wall and cat5e wiring was in the house when built with a drop near the projector and another at source. Definitive Technology XTR-60s for LRC. DT Sub. Picture is before everything was in place. As you can see still have to run wires for screen in the wall. If you look closely you can see the projector sitting on top of my old RPTV in the reflection on the TV. Projector has since been mounted properly. Waiting for the equipment rack. Screen is Stewart 140" 2.4:1 Firehawk.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3075265
> 
> 
> Jeff
> Panasonic DP-UB9000 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray player with Wi-Fi at Crutchfield


Nice rig!! Please keep all informed of your progress.


----------



## Medality

Hi,

While waiting for my 5050UB (no ETA yet), I've been reading about the Panasonic UB420 and its HDR Optimizer feature.
I also read that the 5050UB has a great HDR tone mapping. I plan to use my Xbox Series X to play UHD Blu-rays (works great on my 4K TV).
It's no question that a Panasonic player will be better, but is it like night and day? Regarding the HDR optimizer, I mean.

Thanks.
Julien.


----------



## GuilhermeR

Hi, I have updated the firmware to 1.04 of my Epson 6050UB as recommended. I have followed the instructions found on Epson webpage. However, it does not show the update on the screen. What could be wrong?


----------



## fredworld

GuilhermeR said:


> Hi, I have updated the firmware to 1.04 of my Epson 6050UB as recommended. I have followed the instructions found on Epson webpage. However, it does not show the update on the screen. What could be wrong?


It didn't take.
Be sure you downloaded the update onto a FAT32 formatted USB that's empty of anything but the FW.
Unplug the projector from the power source.
Insert the USB to USB port-A
Hold down the Power button then connect the power cord while still holding down the projector's Power button.
Release the Power button as soon as all the indicator lights come on (update mode). 
When the update finishes in about 75 seconds the projector will turn off.


----------



## GuilhermeR

fredworld said:


> It didn't take.
> Be sure you downloaded the update onto a FAT32 formatted USB that's empty of anything but the FW.
> Unplug the projector from the power source.
> Insert the USB to USB port-A
> Hold down the Power button then connect the power cord while still holding down the projector's Power button.
> Release the Power button as soon as all the indicator lights come on (update mode).
> When the update finishes in about 75 seconds the projector will turn off.


Hi, I have done exactly that, but the update takes only 10 seconds and then it turns itself off.


----------



## fredworld

GuilhermeR said:


> Hi, I have done exactly that, but the update takes only 10 seconds and then it turns itself off.


Something is wrong. I'd *be sure that the instructions are followed precisely*. If done as instructed it'll work. Otherwise, either the USB or projector is preventing the update. Try using another USB, maybe one that's 16gb and confirm its empty before loading the FW to it.


----------



## fredworld

fredworld said:


> Something is wrong. I'd *be sure that the instructions are followed precisely*. If done as instructed it'll work. Otherwise, either the USB or projector is preventing the update. Try using another USB, maybe one that's 16gb and confirm its empty before loading the FW to it.





GuilhermeR said:


> Hi, I have done exactly that, but the update takes only 10 seconds and then it turns itself off.


Also, be sure you loaded to correct FW to the USB.
Ps: use a 2.0 USB. Other posters say 3.0 doesn't work.


----------



## GuilhermeR

fredworld said:


> Also, be sure you loaded to correct FW to the USB.
> Ps: use a 2.0 USB. Other posters say 3.0 doesn't work.


Hi, I managed to update the firmware to 1.04. However, when the Setup > Video > Output Settings HDMI Video Output is set Auto (Dual) the problem continues. So, the only solution is to select between Monitor 1 and Monitor 2, to choose between TV and Projector.


----------



## fredworld

GuilhermeR said:


> Hi, I managed to update the firmware to 1.04. However, when the Setup > Video > Output Settings HDMI Video Output is set Auto (Dual) the problem continues. So, the only solution is to select between Monitor 1 and Monitor 2, to choose between TV and Projector.


Try setting both HDMI control and ARC to OFF in your Marantz 8805's Video/HDMI Setup menu..


----------



## GuilhermeR

fredworld said:


> Try setting both HDMI control and ARC to OFF in your Marantz 8805's Video/HDMI Setup menu..


Done, but the problem continues.


----------



## fredworld

GuilhermeR said:


> Done, but the problem continues.


Then it might be the 40' HDMI cable. Is it powered?


----------



## GuilhermeR

fredworld said:


> Then it might be the 40' HDMI cable. Is it powered?


No, it is not powered. But it works well alone on monitor 2, the problem happens when it is set to dual.


----------



## fredworld

GuilhermeR said:


> No, it is not powered. But it works well alone on monitor 2, the problem happens when it is set to dual.


Well, it sounds like a prepro settings issue and not a projector issue. Perhaps you'll find better advice in the* 8805 owners thread.* Try posting there. Good luck. I'm sorry I can't be of more help.


----------



## GuilhermeR

Thanks! You have helped me a lot.


----------



## djsvetljo

Is there auto calibration software that connect to the projector and proper sensor(like JVC projectors)?
If not, which software will give me best delta values for manual adjustment in 6050?


----------



## SpedInFargo

MrMonkeeMan said:


> Has anyone watched WW84 on HBO Max specifically on an Nvidia Shield? It's totally unwatchable as everybody's skin is green like the Hulk. It's the only movie on the HBO app that does that as well. I tried a downloaded version on Plex and it didn't do that either.
> 
> Edit: after going back and looking again, the skin color is actually purple, not green.


Just confirming that I had the exact same problem! I think I disabled 4k on the Shield or something and that took care of the problem. It happened very fast since the family was waiting on me...


----------



## acrackl

Hi, I couldn’t quickly locate the specifications for “clearance” around the projector. I’m trying to relocate it to a top shelf mount (not inverted). The sides will have ample clearance, top will have about 10 inches. The bottom - it will be resting on the rubber feet. I did a test and it projects very well.

My concern is the rear - depth wise the projector is about 17 inches and in the rear I will have about 3 inches. Not an issue for the cables, but I’m concerned about heat. Is there a spec for the clearance in the rear? Thanks


----------



## biglen

acrackl said:


> Hi, I couldn’t quickly locate the specifications for “clearance” around the projector. I’m trying to relocate it to a top shelf mount (not inverted). The sides will have ample clearance, top will have about 10 inches. The bottom - it will be resting on the rubber feet. I did a test and it projects very well.
> 
> My concern is the rear - depth wise the projector is about 17 inches and in the rear I will have about 3 inches. Not an issue for the cables, but I’m concerned about heat. Is there a spec for the clearance in the rear? Thanks


I have my 5050 in a box, that's recessed into my back wall. The projector is all the way pushed back, against the back of the box. I've never had a heat issue. The vents are in the front of the projector anyway, so that's where all the heat is. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Cacitems4sale

Watched the tenant last night (4K BR with DV). Though it looked great, I’m not sure I got the results I should. See screen shot and welcome any feedback. Thanks


----------



## biglen

Cacitems4sale said:


> Watched the tenant last night (4K BR with DV). Though it looked great, I’m not sure I got the results I should. See screen shot and welcome any feedback. Thanks
> View attachment 3076733


What are you looking for????

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Cacitems4sale

biglen said:


> What are you looking for????
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Great question! I just wanted to make sure that the screenshot I shared is everything that would be expected of a 4K content. Thanks


----------



## biglen

Cacitems4sale said:


> Great question! I just wanted to make sure that the screenshot I shared is everything that would be expected of a 4K content. Thanks


Everything in the info panel looks good. As far as it possibly looking better, is your room treated, light controlled,etc? These are all factors that can dictate PQ. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Zedekias

I'm hoping someone can help narrow down a problem of mine. I don't really know where to begin. I've been watching a lot of Mandalorian on Disney+ and I've noticed on the Disney app it will say it's in HD and not 4k.

I've reset the projector (which I don't like doing?) and my x3600h and that has fixed it and it will then say 4k ultra HD next to the mandalorian title. It has also been fixed by resetting my Google Chromecast 4k. It seems like it's now always defaulting to HD and I don't know why.

And it seems like it's only an issue with Disney, but I can't be 100% positive. I'm not sure if netflix/Amazon list the resolution on the title page like Disney does.

But I don't know where to begin. Is this projector, chromecast, wifi, receiver, cable? And not quite sure how to find out. I haven't ever had connection/wifi problems so I don't believe that's it. And my fiber optic hdmi seems to work great otherwise. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Everything in the info panel looks good. As far as it possibly looking better, is your room treated, light controlled,etc? These are all factors that can dictate PQ.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Deleted


----------



## fredworld

Zedekias said:


> I'm hoping someone can help narrow down a problem of mine. I don't really know where to begin. I've been watching a lot of Mandalorian on Disney+ and I've noticed on the Disney app it will say it's in HD and not 4k.
> 
> I've reset the projector (which I don't like doing?) and my x3600h and that has fixed it and it will then say 4k ultra HD next to the mandalorian title. It has also been fixed by resetting my Google Chromecast 4k. It seems like it's now always defaulting to HD and I don't know why.
> 
> And it seems like it's only an issue with Disney, but I can't be 100% positive. I'm not sure if netflix/Amazon list the resolution on the title page like Disney does.
> 
> But I don't know where to begin. Is this projector, chromecast, wifi, receiver, cable? And not quite sure how to find out. I haven't ever had connection/wifi problems so I don't believe that's it. And my fiber optic hdmi seems to work great otherwise.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Check your Disney App settings. Should be set to AUTOMATIC to stream up to 4k.


----------



## Zedekias

fredworld said:


> Check your Disney App settings. Should be set to AUTOMATIC to stream up to 4k.


It was set to automatic. Any other ideas? 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Zedekias said:


> It was set to automatic. Any other ideas?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Check your internet speed for the app. It might not be high enough to support 4K and thus automatically down rez's.


----------



## Zedekias

fredworld said:


> Check your internet speed for the app. It might not be high enough to support 4K and thus automatically down rez's.


You can check the speed for a specific app? The connection and speed are fine overall. I have 200mb/s with a good connection. And once it's "set" on 4k it plays flawlessly. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Zedekias said:


> You can check the speed for a specific app? The connection and speed are fine overall. I have 200mb/s with a good connection. And once it's "set" on 4k it plays flawlessly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I meant for the streaming device, not app. My Roku Ultra is getting 92Mps via a 50' ethernet cable from my router on a 200Mps FiOS plan. Prior to the wired ethernet connection, my Ultra was getting 12-16Mps via WiFi and often the streaming 4k video signals would drop or down-rez on the fly. My other devices are getting <20Mps, via an extender in my basement but they seem fine for 1080p streams and only occasionally drop for a few seconds.


----------



## Zedekias

fredworld said:


> I meant for the streaming device, not app. My Roku Ultra is getting 92Mps via a 50' ethernet cable from my router on a 200Mps FiOS plan. Prior to the wired ethernet connection, my Ultra was getting 12-16Mps via WiFi and often the streaming 4k video signals would drop or down-rez on the fly. My other devices are getting
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk



Got it. Thank you! I'll look into that.


----------



## aRTee21

9723 posts and counting. Now one more, my first one. Hi everyone! A belated Happy New Year!
I started lurking just 2 weeks ago, when my projector arrived. I have to apologize, I didn't read this whole thread. I read the first few pages, and the last few pages. And actually some pages in between, when I was searching for info and found this place.

I got my first projector in 2003, a Philips with 854x480 lcd and contrast ratio of 500:1.
Yes, blacks were dark-ish grey, and whites were lighter grey. Uphill, both ways, barefoot, in the snow, and we liked it that way.
Anyway, that one gave out to a weird lamp problem short of 3 years of service, and I'd bought it with 3 years warranty for over 2000 USD (well, 2500CHF), but they claimed it was a printing error... (I was actually employed at Philips at the time, got the employee shop rebate, going price was 3500CHF, and wasn't going to get into legal action to a different part of my employer). So then I needed a new one.
Which was the Sanyo PLV-Z4 (just before the Z5 came out, I regretted I didn't wait but didn't know at the time). 720p, awesome! And what, 15 times better contrast values! And 1000 ANSI lumens!

It still works, but due to the family situation, we had to cancel the study / computer / home theatre room (needed one more bedroom), so as some have mentioned even in this thread, life is about compromises sometimes, I put forth the compromise to accept not having the computer / home theatre room, but then I'd make a home cinema setup in the living room, including a new projector.
BTW we have no TV.

We used to project on a wall with a not so smooth surface, from 3.5 meters away, the projector placed behind us and centered at the top end of the screen.
Audio system: Logitech Z906 5.1. PC: home-built AMD, running linux.

First I transferred the audio system to the living room, attached it to the headless server (AMD Ryzen 5 / 2400G) which actually rarely had to drive a monitor. I did pay attention to get a system with DP1.2 which can do RGB [email protected] Hz, amongst other things (it also has HDMI 1.4 or so, officially limited to [email protected]).
Had to put the projector (still the Sanyo) at the side of the opposing wall, so now projecting sideways and down. The HDMI cable I have is not 5 cm longer than necessary (pc on the ground behind the sofa, projector on its shelf aside and above the sofa.

For perfectionists, the following lines may be hard to read, please feel free to skip if you're not feeling well due to what you read.
The projection wall is actually one of the sides of the room with windows... 3 of them, plus the balcony door. I made a black curtain (well, delegated it to the child that got the bedroom) and a white 12USD cloth (portable projector screen, they call it) off AliExpress. So now we can close the blinds, draw the black curtain and the white screen, I have to fiddle with the screen to tense it, it's quite laborious for the moment. It will be worse / different, because the mrs insists it cannot stay up, it's blocking too much light. Manufacturing of the stowaway solution is yet to begin, the design phase is still underway.
Anyway, as stated, life is full of compromises...

I got the 5.1 sound going, took quite some effort, since another pc account plays internet radio, and having 2 different accounts use the audio outputs at the same time is not straightforward.
Also got the system working as BT speakers, so my kids can play back stuff on the home hifi.

Got the ir remotes working (the old system had a built-in PCI tv card, Hauppauge WinTV-FM, and I wanted to use the same remote with this pc, which has a USB TV-stick by TechnoTrend), the regular one was easy, the old one from the other system took a bit more effort, but I got my mplayer configured for that one since almost 20 years, and it's just right...

And then the new projector arrived.
First shock (after realizing that my HDMI cable was too short to reach the socket, which got remedied by putting the pc on 5cm of elevating stuff): the sideways plus downward lens shift range of the Z4 was way bigger, I'd calculated and determined that it should work in the setup I had made (shelf above, gasp, the heating, in the corner), the 9400 just couldn't shift enough..!
Well, in all honesty, the screen is slightly more to the left than planned, due to there being a christmas tree in the room. Yeah, a recurring theme, these compromises... ;-)

Also: it was so heavy, and I leaned too much on the shelf, that the shelf almost came off. It was hanging on for dear life (not really, just looked terribly crooked), and I only just got that fixed.
The projector is so much bigger than the Z4 that we now call it Darth Beamer.
(Looks more like the Dark Knight's car if you ask me, but anyway...)

Then: the pc would sometimes not find the projector, so I had troubles to get an image going. Likely a cable plugging issue, it's since behaved nicely.

Some really good news: though the motherboard vendor specifies max 30Hz from the HDMI port at 4k, I get 60 Hz. Confirmed by the OS and the projector.
Good thing, because my DP to HDMI [email protected] cable (actually advertised as [email protected], but not sure if that is real) is affected by a Covid19 delay.
And the [email protected] DP male to HDMI female adapter only does [email protected]

Now, to my experience:
Black is almost black, instead of dark grey on the Z4 (instead of darkish grey on the Philips), white is very bright, the resolution even at FHD / 1080p is great, and the family consensus is: we should have upgraded ages ago...
I don't know what I did, but at some point the skin colours went way off, so I reset everything. I hadn't actually configured that much, so no big loss. I still am curious to what I messed up.
Anyway, the noise level of the fan is ok at eco mode. It's an important point for me, I don't know how people can seriously sell home cinema projectors with over 25dBA noise levels.
The iris of the Z4 was noisy, so I turned it off. I have the 9400 iris on auto atm, if it bothers me I'll turn it off.

I'm perfectly happy about the black levels, I've always found it amazing that the white wall we were projecting on was actually supposed to be the blackest black of the movie. Which also explains that the whole family has the view that all lights should be off, even though the 9400 does quite okay with a bit of side light.
Now we at least have a black surrounding directly around the screen.
Human colour vision is very relative anyway.

I'm very picky on certain artefacts, had lots of problems with the video drivers, had tearing in the otherwise optimal mode. None of my family members noticed, but I did, and it ruins the experience for me (as in I have to watch WW84 again since I just looked for tearing and got depressed, while the family watched and seriously enjoyed the movie).
I was looking into 10bit and such, but for me and for now, 8bit rgb (4:4:4) will do fine, I'm not so picky on banding. Have yet to notice it during a movie on the 9400, actually.

Next I will be looking at 3d. I've only seen a handful of 3d movies, but I'd really like to see Avatar again in 3d. Don't care too much if it doesn't go well, but it might be fun.
Ordered some glasses, I'll see how that goes.

One question I have is: it seems 3d is done with 1080p side by side sbs or top over bottom tob (or whatever it's called) at 60Hz. Why don't they do [email protected] Hz sbs + tob (4 full HD frames, 2 left and 2 right images, at 30Hz)? It would double the resolution at the same frame rate - true full hd per eye at 60 Hz, instead of half FHD per eye at 60Hz. It just seems wrong...

Anyway, that's it from my side for now. Happy viewing!
;-)


----------



## Medality

aRTee21 said:


> 9723 posts and counting. Now one more, my first one. Hi everyone! A belated Happy New Year!
> I started lurking just 2 weeks ago, when my projector arrived. I have to apologize, I didn't read this whole thread. I read the first few pages, and the last few pages. And actually some pages in between, when I was searching for info and found this place.
> 
> I got my first projector in 2003, a Philips with 854x480 lcd and contrast ratio of 500:1.
> Yes, blacks were dark-ish grey, and whites were lighter grey. Uphill, both ways, barefoot, in the snow, and we liked it that way.
> Anyway, that one gave out to a weird lamp problem short of 3 years of service, and I'd bought it with 3 years warranty for over 2000 USD (well, 2500CHF), but they claimed it was a printing error... (I was actually employed at Philips at the time, got the employee shop rebate, going price was 3500CHF, and wasn't going to get into legal action to a different part of my employer). So then I needed a new one.
> Which was the Sanyo PLV-Z4 (just before the Z5 came out, I regretted I didn't wait but didn't know at the time). 720p, awesome! And what, 15 times better contrast values! And 1000 ANSI lumens!
> 
> It still works, but due to the family situation, we had to cancel the study / computer / home theatre room (needed one more bedroom), so as some have mentioned even in this thread, life is about compromises sometimes, I put forth the compromise to accept not having the computer / home theatre room, but then I'd make a home cinema setup in the living room, including a new projector.
> BTW we have no TV.
> 
> We used to project on a wall with a not so smooth surface, from 3.5 meters away, the projector placed behind us and centered at the top end of the screen.
> Audio system: Logitech Z906 5.1. PC: home-built AMD, running linux.
> 
> First I transferred the audio system to the living room, attached it to the headless server (AMD Ryzen 5 / 2400G) which actually rarely had to drive a monitor. I did pay attention to get a system with DP1.2 which can do RGB [email protected] Hz, amongst other things (it also has HDMI 1.4 or so, officially limited to [email protected]).
> Had to put the projector (still the Sanyo) at the side of the opposing wall, so now projecting sideways and down. The HDMI cable I have is not 5 cm longer than necessary (pc on the ground behind the sofa, projector on its shelf aside and above the sofa.
> 
> For perfectionists, the following lines may be hard to read, please feel free to skip if you're not feeling well due to what you read.
> The projection wall is actually one of the sides of the room with windows... 3 of them, plus the balcony door. I made a black curtain (well, delegated it to the child that got the bedroom) and a white 12USD cloth (portable projector screen, they call it) off AliExpress. So now we can close the blinds, draw the black curtain and the white screen, I have to fiddle with the screen to tense it, it's quite laborious for the moment. It will be worse / different, because the mrs insists it cannot stay up, it's blocking too much light. Manufacturing of the stowaway solution is yet to begin, the design phase is still underway.
> Anyway, as stated, life is full of compromises...
> 
> I got the 5.1 sound going, took quite some effort, since another pc account plays internet radio, and having 2 different accounts use the audio outputs at the same time is not straightforward.
> Also got the system working as BT speakers, so my kids can play back stuff on the home hifi.
> 
> Got the ir remotes working (the old system had a built-in PCI tv card, Hauppauge WinTV-FM, and I wanted to use the same remote with this pc, which has a USB TV-stick by TechnoTrend), the regular one was easy, the old one from the other system took a bit more effort, but I got my mplayer configured for that one since almost 20 years, and it's just right...
> 
> And then the new projector arrived.
> First shock (after realizing that my HDMI cable was too short to reach the socket, which got remedied by putting the pc on 5cm of elevating stuff): the sideways plus downward lens shift range of the Z4 was way bigger, I'd calculated and determined that it should work in the setup I had made (shelf above, gasp, the heating, in the corner), the 9400 just couldn't shift enough..!
> Well, in all honesty, the screen is slightly more to the left than planned, due to there being a christmas tree in the room. Yeah, a recurring theme, these compromises... ;-)
> 
> Also: it was so heavy, and I leaned too much on the shelf, that the shelf almost came off. It was hanging on for dear life (not really, just looked terribly crooked), and I only just got that fixed.
> The projector is so much bigger than the Z4 that we now call it Darth Beamer.
> (Looks more like the Dark Knight's car if you ask me, but anyway...)
> 
> Then: the pc would sometimes not find the projector, so I had troubles to get an image going. Likely a cable plugging issue, it's since behaved nicely.
> 
> Some really good news: though the motherboard vendor specifies max 30Hz from the HDMI port at 4k, I get 60 Hz. Confirmed by the OS and the projector.
> Good thing, because my DP to HDMI [email protected] cable (actually advertised as [email protected], but not sure if that is real) is affected by a Covid19 delay.
> And the [email protected] DP male to HDMI female adapter only does [email protected]
> 
> Now, to my experience:
> Black is almost black, instead of dark grey on the Z4 (instead of darkish grey on the Philips), white is very bright, the resolution even at FHD / 1080p is great, and the family consensus is: we should have upgraded ages ago...
> I don't know what I did, but at some point the skin colours went way off, so I reset everything. I hadn't actually configured that much, so no big loss. I still am curious to what I messed up.
> Anyway, the noise level of the fan is ok at eco mode. It's an important point for me, I don't know how people can seriously sell home cinema projectors with over 25dBA noise levels.
> The iris of the Z4 was noisy, so I turned it off. I have the 9400 iris on auto atm, if it bothers me I'll turn it off.
> 
> I'm perfectly happy about the black levels, I've always found it amazing that the white wall we were projecting on was actually supposed to be the blackest black of the movie. Which also explains that the whole family has the view that all lights should be off, even though the 9400 does quite okay with a bit of side light.
> Now we at least have a black surrounding directly around the screen.
> Human colour vision is very relative anyway.
> 
> I'm very picky on certain artefacts, had lots of problems with the video drivers, had tearing in the otherwise optimal mode. None of my family members noticed, but I did, and it ruins the experience for me (as in I have to watch WW84 again since I just looked for tearing and got depressed, while the family watched and seriously enjoyed the movie).
> I was looking into 10bit and such, but for me and for now, 8bit rgb (4:4:4) will do fine, I'm not so picky on banding. Have yet to notice it during a movie on the 9400, actually.
> 
> Next I will be looking at 3d. I've only seen a handful of 3d movies, but I'd really like to see Avatar again in 3d. Don't care too much if it doesn't go well, but it might be fun.
> Ordered some glasses, I'll see how that goes.
> 
> One question I have is: it seems 3d is done with 1080p side by side sbs or top over bottom tob (or whatever it's called) at 60Hz. Why don't they do [email protected] Hz sbs + tob (4 full HD frames, 2 left and 2 right images, at 30Hz)? It would double the resolution at the same frame rate - true full hd per eye at 60 Hz, instead of half FHD per eye at 60Hz. It just seems wrong...
> 
> Anyway, that's it from my side for now. Happy viewing!
> ;-)


Hi,
I don't have my 5050UB yet but I know a bit about 3D. For 3D Blu-rays, it's neither side-by-side nor top-bottom. It's frame-packed 3D. You get 1080p per eye at 24 Hz. The projector is actually displaying these images at a much higher framerate (96 or 144 Hz), so each eye sees the same image 2 or 3 times.
If you want to see real 3D, I suggest you use a 3D Blu-ray. You'll have a blast.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

Can anyone recommend a reliable source for OEM replacement bulb (ELPLP89) other than Epson? I'm looking for an OEM housing and bulb, not an "OEM bulb" in a third party / refurbished housing. 

I'm on my third Epson projector and I replace bulbs once a year around 4k hours ( We use our projectors a lot). I typically only buy bulbs direct from Epson, but it seems like they rarely have bulbs in stock, and whey they do they sell out like the latest gaming console. I used to use the e-mail me when available link and buy them as soon as they come in, but now that's no longer an option on the web page so I've been checking daily for a while only to keep seeing out of stock. 

I just purchased a new screen for my 5050ub and I would love to set it up with a fresh bulb. Sorry if this has been covered in the past 487 pages. I did a search, but it appears most the companies people recommend are offering "OEM replacements" that are really "OEM bulbs" in third party housings that make a burning smell. No thanks. I lost one projector a few years back to an off brand bulb that overheated, don't want that happening to my precious 5050ub. Thanks.


----------



## fredworld

CinemacDaddy said:


> Can anyone recommend a reliable source for OEM replacement bulb (ELPLP89) other than Epson? I'm looking for an OEM housing and bulb, not an "OEM bulb" in a third party / refurbished housing.
> 
> I'm on my third Epson projector and I replace bulbs once a year around 4k hours ( We use our projectors a lot). I typically only buy bulbs direct from Epson, but it seems like they rarely have bulbs in stock, and whey they do they sell out like the latest gaming console. I used to use the e-mail me when available link and buy them as soon as they come in, but now that's no longer an option on the web page so I've been checking daily for a while only to keep seeing out of stock.
> 
> I just purchased a new screen for my 5050ub and I would love to set it up with a fresh bulb. Sorry if this has been covered in the past 487 pages. I did a search, but it appears most the companies people recommend are offering "OEM replacements" that are really "OEM bulbs" in third party housings that make a burning smell. No thanks. I lost one projector a few years back to an off brand bulb that overheated, don't want that happening to my precious 5050ub. Thanks.


See *this post* for some important information. Both lamps have been returned and I should be getting my refund soon. I'm going to place an order for a lamp replacement with: *Jaspertronics * but this time I'll get the original lamp with a 1 year warranty.


----------



## Medality

Hey @fredworld, I see you have the Panasonic UB820. Are you using its HDR Optimizer? Does it make the 16-step HDR control on the Epson useless? Thanks.


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## fredworld

Medality said:


> Hey @fredworld, I see you have the Panasonic UB820. Are you using its HDR Optimizer? Does it make the 16-step HDR control on the Epson useless? Thanks.


I AM using the HDR optimizer. It does not render the Epson's HDR slider useless. I only need to set the Panny HDR to +2, all other parameters were left at 0. I used the *Spears & Muncil UHD Benchmark disc* for my subjective calibration. I hope this helps.


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## CinemacDaddy

fredworld said:


> See *this post* for some important information. Both lamps have been returned and I should be getting my refund soon. I'm going to place an order for a lamp replacement with: *Jaspertronics * but this time I'll get the original lamp with a 1 year warranty.


Thank you for the link. I searched Jaspertronics and found a few posts where people had good experiences with the bulbs so they may be comparable, but I found this post where someone contacted them about a JVC bulb asking if it was in fact really the original:

Need an advice: JVC RS40 or RS20?

Also found this link on Jaspertronics website:
Original or Compatible?!? What is the difference ?!?

So it would appear their OEM units are what they call "original inside" as they use the same OEM bulb as supplied to manufacturer and arrive in OEM packaging, but quality control could potentially differ.


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## Tsunamijhoe

CinemacDaddy said:


> Thank you for the link. I searched Jaspertronics and found a few posts where people had good experiences with the bulbs so they may be comparable, but I found this post where someone contacted them about a JVC bulb asking if it was in fact really the original:
> 
> Need an advice: JVC RS40 or RS20?
> 
> Also found this link on Jaspertronics website:
> Original or Compatible?!? What is the difference ?!?
> 
> So it would appear their OEM units are what they call "original inside" as they use the same OEM bulb as supplied to manufacturer and arrive in OEM packaging, but quality control could potentially differ.


Problem is the oem housing with original bulbs have had the exact same problem from at least 2 different suppliers. The supplier i used, i also bought all my Sony lamps from, and they were perfect. 
You have to think about how many manufacturers actually make these. I would have them measure the screws before purchase,or pull the original screws out when changing if they are wrong size.


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## CinemacDaddy

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Problem is the oem housing with original bulbs have had the exact same problem from at least 2 different suppliers. The supplier i used, i also bought all my Sony lamps from, and they were perfect.
> You have to think about how many manufacturers actually make these. I would have them measure the screws before purchase,or pull the original screws out when changing if they are wrong size.


I'm betting the screws would be the right size if you buy from Epson... now if they would just restock or add back the notify me when in stock button.


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## aRTee21

Medality said:


> Hi,
> I don't have my 5050UB yet but I know a bit about 3D. For 3D Blu-rays, it's neither side-by-side nor top-bottom. It's frame-packed 3D. You get 1080p per eye at 24 Hz. The projector is actually displaying these images at a much higher framerate (96 or 144 Hz), so each eye sees the same image 2 or 3 times.
> If you want to see real 3D, I suggest you use a 3D Blu-ray. You'll have a blast.


Thanks for the info, I guess I have more stuff to read up on. Effectively, thinking about it, [email protected] (or 30) progressive in sbs format is also 1080p per eye, just 960x1080 non-square pixel 1080p... ;-)
I'll test the waters before I get a 3D BR, but it's an option for sure.


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Problem is the oem housing with original bulbs have had the exact same problem from at least 2 different suppliers. The supplier i used, i also bought all my Sony lamps from, and they were perfect.
> You have to think about how many manufacturers actually make these. I would have them measure the screws before purchase,or pull the original screws out when changing if they are wrong size.


I got the shipping notice already from Jaspertronics for *my order*. I'll post back with results after inspection and testing.


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## JoelM

aRTee21 said:


> Thanks for the info, I guess I have more stuff to read up on. Effectively, thinking about it, [email protected] (or 30) progressive in sbs format is also 1080p per eye, just 960x1080 non-square pixel 1080p... ;-)
> I'll test the waters before I get a 3D BR, but it's an option for sure.


Has anyone successfully do framepacked within Plex or maybe Kodi with this projector? The information is so old as people seemed to abandon 3D. I have so many 3D movies that I would love to put on my NAS. I have tried DVDfab and MakeMKV and don't know if there is an extra step I am missing. It just looks 2D to me and framepacked isn't an option but SBS and TB is when I put Shield into 1080p.


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## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> I got the shipping notice already from Jaspertronics for *my order*. I'll post back with results after inspection and testing.


An original lamp will ofcourse fit.. My comment was meant for those who contemplate buying oem housings and lamps..


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## ROAD5

Medality said:


> Hi,
> 
> While waiting for my 5050UB (no ETA yet), I've been reading about the Panasonic UB420 and its HDR Optimizer feature.
> I also read that the 5050UB has a great HDR tone mapping. I plan to use my Xbox Series X to play UHD Blu-rays (works great on my 4K TV).
> It's no question that a Panasonic player will be better, but is it like night and day? Regarding the HDR optimizer, I mean.
> 
> Thanks.
> Julien.


Same question here. Did you ever get an answer? I did not see any feedback. I have a Xbox One X.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Medality

ROAD5 said:


> Same question here. Did you ever get an answer? I did not see any feedback. I have a Xbox One X.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


Not really. Maybe @fredworld or someone else could comment on how much impact the HDR optimizer has (on vs off)?

P.S: I know I asked about the UB420, but I'm pretty sure it shares the same processor as the UB820. So any experience with the optimizer on the UB820 should be the same on the UB420.


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## Luminated67

For the sake of less than $300 it's DOES make a better fist of handling HDR than the Epson, not to say the Epson on it's own is bad just that the other is better. Many on here use MadVR on a PC to play movies throw and it's significantly better than either the Epson or Epson+UB420 combination by all accounts if that's more up your street but in either case when watching streaming services like Netflix or Prime you only have the Epson's internal processing to fall back on.


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## plain fan

Without wanting to start an argument, I believe it comes down to a matter of choice and preference. Some of us are always striving to get that last little bit of performance out of our setups, while others are perfectly happy and content to get "close enough" in their eyes.

As Luminated67 mentioned, for physical discs, the Panasonic takes a first pass at making the signal more appropriate for a brightness challenged display device. Then final tweaks, if needed, can be accomplished using the internal slider of the Epson. Some people want to go "that extra step" to get even better performance by using a computer to run MadVR for their physical disc ripped content. Either way you are relying on the Epson slider to make adjustments for streaming sources.

For streaming sources you have three options: Epson, Lumagen, or MadVR Envy.


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## JPBoggis

For streaming there's also the HDFury Dolby Vision (LLDV) 'hack' which can give very good results on a HDR projector.

However, it's only really beneficial for DV content, but there's plenty available on Netflix, Disney+, Apple TV+ and iTunes Movies.


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## fredworld

Medality said:


> Not really. Maybe @fredworld or someone else could comment on how much impact the HDR optimizer has (on vs off)?
> 
> P.S: I know I asked about the UB420, but I'm pretty sure it shares the same processor as the UB820. So any experience with the optimizer on the UB820 should be the same on the UB420.


Thanks for reaching out, but I'm probably not the one to rely on for a definitive answer. I say this because my projector/screen set-up is on the conservative side of many others in this thread. At 40"x94" with 1.0 gain I'm well under others that have 110" to 150+" screens either in width or diagonally that use Lumagen, MadVR, HTPC, etc with which to make comparisons. 

Having said that I still stand by what I posted *here*. My system is not professionally calibrated. I used the Spears & Muncil UHD and SDR 3D disc's basic patterns/instructions to dial in what I subjectively feel is a "proper" result for my various sources, then for HDR I fine tuned the image with my Panasonic's HDR slider. My room is completely light controlled. Black level, in my estimation, is excellent. Ren's black wardrobe on the latter Star Wars movies display, what appears to me, the appropriate folds in the fabric with natural looking shadowing between the sections of his costume. The light sabers have no edge pixilation (as some reported seeing). With _Solo_ I have to move the projector's HDR slider from 4 to 2 for good light levels, similarly when streaming _Mandolorian_ on Disney+. Noir-type films hold up very well. I feel that I never need to guess what is happening in dark scenes unless it's intended by the filmmaker. The image doesn't solarize unless the source is a poor one (not everything I watch is of a recent vintage) but even when it does it passes quickly. _StarTrek Discovery _on CBS Access in 1080P is a standout in its color palette and contrast levels with discernible brightness levels of stars and nebulae in outer space.

The overall result gives me, pretty much, a set and forget scenario. For the most part, the same settings are in play for HDR, SDR and SD physical media and streaming (the HDR slider is not in play, obviously, for SDR and SD). I hope this helps. YMMV.🎬


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## Medality

Thanks for all your answers. Much appreciated.
I guess I'll wait for a sale on the UB420 then .


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## aRTee21

JoelM said:


> Has anyone successfully do framepacked within Plex or maybe Kodi with this projector? The information is so old as people seemed to abandon 3D. I have so many 3D movies that I would love to put on my NAS. I have tried DVDfab and MakeMKV and don't know if there is an extra step I am missing. It just looks 2D to me and framepacked isn't an option but SBS and TB is when I put Shield into 1080p.


According to here: Kodi 3D SW decoding not supported Kodi can do framepacked (MVC) if the driver and hardware platform support it. Raspberry Pi is mentioned to have what it takes.
I'd go that way to avoid having to mess with discs. No idea (yet) how to rip the discs, I'll investigate if I decide to go for it...

If you go the RasPi way, let me know how it works out!

Edit: btw, indeed, 3D seems to be abandoned. I'll see if it does its thing for me.
For now, I downloaded some 3D SBS clips, and found that on a regular screen I can do cross-eye viewing, to see the 3d effect. Disadvantage: that way, due to crossing the eyes, it the imagery is positioned in front of the screen... Not so majestic, everything seems tiny... ;-)


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## Dehrig Richard

I’ve looked around and haven’t seen this problem in any of the forums. 

I have my 5050UB hooked up to various sources through a Denon receiver. When plugged into the HDMI 1 port on the Epson, I cannot switch between sources as I’ll get a flashing blue and orange error (status and lamp). I don’t get this error with the HDMI 2 port and can switch between sources with no problem. 

Am I looking at a faulty port? 

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

Dehrig Richard said:


> I’ve looked around and haven’t seen this problem in any of the forums.
> 
> I have my 5050UB hooked up to various sources through a Denon receiver. When plugged into the HDMI 1 port on the Epson, I cannot switch between sources as I’ll get a flashing blue and orange error (status and lamp). I don’t get this error with the HDMI 2 port and can switch between sources with no problem.
> 
> Am I looking at a faulty port?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What firmware are you using? Vers 1.04 addresses connectivity issues on HDMI input 1.


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## xplorar

aRTee21 said:


> According to here: Kodi 3D SW decoding not supported Kodi can do framepacked (MVC) if the driver and hardware platform support it. Raspberry Pi is mentioned to have what it takes.
> I'd go that way to avoid having to mess with discs. No idea (yet) how to rip the discs, I'll investigate if I decide to go for it...
> 
> If you go the RasPi way, let me know how it works out!
> 
> Edit: btw, indeed, 3D seems to be abandoned. I'll see if it does its thing for me.
> For now, I downloaded some 3D SBS clips, and found that on a regular screen I can do cross-eye viewing, to see the 3d effect. Disadvantage: that way, due to crossing the eyes, it the imagery is positioned in front of the screen... Not so majestic, everything seems tiny... ;-)


Popcorn Hour media player can frame-pack SBS or OU video files. The players are discontinued now though. See if you can find some used ones (A400 or A500 series)


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## Dehrig Richard

fredworld said:


> What firmware are you using? Vers 1.04 addresses connectivity issues on HDMI input 1.


I’m on 1.03. 

Thanks for that! I’ll update and see what happens. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## reechings

I know this thread may be biased but if I'm in the market for a 4K projector in this price range in the summer do you still think the 5050 is the way to go? Price hasn't really changed since launch.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


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## Medality

reechings said:


> I know this thread may be biased but if I'm in the market for a 4K projector in this price range in the summer do you still think the 5050 is the way to go? Price hasn't really changed since launch.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


If gaming is important to you, then it's the best for the price. It can do 4K HDR at 60 Hz with a pretty good input lag (below 30 ms).
Otherwise, you could also look at the BenQ HT5550. Choice is pretty limited to be honest (unless your budget is not ).


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## reechings

Medality said:


> If gaming is important to you, then it's the best for the price. It can do 4K HDR at 60 Hz with a pretty good input lag (below 30 ms).
> Otherwise, you could also look at the BenQ HT5550. Choice is pretty limited to be honest (unless your budget is not ).


Yeah it's painful with projectors where they don't really come down much in price even as they get older but it's not like it's been out THAT long I guess.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

reechings said:


> Yeah it's painful with projectors where they don't really come down much in price even as they get older but it's not like it's been out THAT long I guess.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


If you prefer a less feature-laden much lower priced unit but doesn't spec out as well as the 5050 you might want to investigate the review of the 3800 model in *Sound and Vision* mag and at *Projector central*.


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## reechings

fredworld said:


> If you prefer a less feature-laden much lower priced unit but doesn't spec out as well as the 5050 you might want to investigate the review of the 3800 model in *Sound and Vision* mag and at *Projector central*.


Thank you for that, the price difference is definitely huge but I really want the better blacks as I am currently using an epson 3100 and that's it's main weakness.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


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## aRTee21

xplorar said:


> Popcorn Hour media player can frame-pack SBS or OU video files. The players are discontinued now though. See if you can find some used ones (A400 or A500 series)


Sorry for asking, and I don't mean to be blunt, but what's the point of getting SBS or OU 1080p files and going through the effort of getting some way to get those half res files into a framepacked format? Just playing the SBS or OU should lead to the same quality on the screen, right?


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## Luminated67

reechings said:


> I know this thread may be biased but if I'm in the market for a 4K projector in this price range in the summer do you still think the 5050 is the way to go? Price hasn't really changed since launch.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


At its price point nothing is better IMO, blacks and colours are best in class as is its HDR handling. In all honesty you would have to go buy yourself a JVC NX5 to get much of an improvement and it’s around twice the price.

Only negative is if you are motion sensitive, I personally don’t have any issues with the Epson and I watch everything from movies to soccer but I have heard some have issues so best try before you buy.


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## Hawkmarket

reechings said:


> I know this thread may be biased but if I'm in the market for a 4K projector in this price range in the summer do you still think the 5050 is the way to go? Price hasn't really changed since launch.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


Rumors have swirled that Epson will have an upgraded model later this year. I believe the 5040 was originally announced in the month of June and it seems like maybe the 5050 was announced at CEDIA in September....I think. If I were doing this in the summer I would hold off until I could see if Epson is announcing an upgraded model such as the 5060. No reason to rush in and purchase it at this point.


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## Kieran

reechings said:


> I know this thread may be biased but if I'm in the market for a 4K projector in this price range in the summer do you still think the 5050 is the way to go? Price hasn't really changed since launch.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


The new LG HU810P (SRP of around $2999) might be worth considering once several sites have a chance to review it. On paper it seems like a competitor, and it has a laser light engine, so nearly a lifetime of light hours (no bulb replacements) and DLP so _SLIGHTLY_ more resolution than the Epsons (most can't tell the difference) and no risk of dust in the light path. But if you are sensitive to rainbows, then there's that.
Otherwise I'd wait to see what if anything Epson announces in the next few months.


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## reechings

Hawkmarket said:


> Rumors have swirled that Epson will have an upgraded model later this year. I believe the 5040 was originally announced in the month of June and it seems like maybe the 5050 was announced at CEDIA in September....I think. If I were doing this in the summer I would hold off until I could see if Epson is announcing an upgraded model such as the 5060. No reason to rush in and purchase it at this point.


I guess they might announce this fall and release next year since 5040 was released in 2016 and 5050 was released in 2019. Wouldn't surprise me if they announce right after I purchase 

Sent from my Phone 2 using Tapatalk


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## reechings

Kieran said:


> The new LG HU810P (SRP of around $2999) might be worth considering once several sites have a chance to review it. On paper it seems like a competitor, and it has a laser light engine, so nearly a lifetime of light hours (no bulb replacements) and DLP so _SLIGHTLY_ more resolution than the Epsons (most can't tell the difference) and no risk of dust in the light path. But if you are sensitive to rainbows, then there's that.
> Otherwise I'd wait to see what if anything Epson announces in the next few months.


Thanks for the heads up, that does sound really good. Guessing that blacks may be an issue as it is DLP but I'll stay hopeful.

Sent from my Phone 2 using Tapatalk


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## Kieran

HEAT management question!

Does anyone in this thread have their Epson in an enclosed / sealed hush box or soffit like enclosure? I've seen a few questions recently about putting the projector up against a wall, but what if the front of the projector (where intake and exhaust are) is up close to the front of an enclosure? 

My pj will be in an enclosed section of a soffit (with a window for the image), with (hopefully) plenty of forced airflow through it, with an intake vent on one end of the enclosure and an exhaust with thermostat-controlled quiet PC fans on the other. I'm a mechanical engineer, and I've done some basic HVAC calcs, and in theory I should be able to keep the pj below 95F with an 80F room (worst case scenario with a warm room and pj at max power consumption) with the fans I have planned.

But I'm a little worried with the pj's own hot exhaust vent blowing right against the inside wall of the enclosure.

Anyone doing something similar? Any problems with the warm air blowing around the projected image?


----------



## Kieran

Quoting a bunch of you below to get your attention...  
As @JPBoggis mentioned, y'all should consider the HDFury solution/hack.
For around $650 ($400 for the HDFury, and $250 for a Sony UBP-X800M2) you get Dolby Vision frame-by-frame tone mapping for Dolby Vision material, and HDR10 or whatever other HDR format, for everything else (yes I'm excessively paraphrasing).
There are other source hardware devices that work too, but I think the X800M2 is the least costly of them. Works for Dolby Vision streaming content, too.

By most accounts, this method is the best HDR experience short of a MadVR htpc, which will only tone-map discs, not streaming content.

Start HERE which is HDFury's post that contains links to threads here at AVS and elsewhere explaining the details. This has been discussed in this thread, too.



ROAD5 said:


> deleted





Medality said:


> deleted





Luminated67 said:


> deleted





plain fan said:


> deleted





fredworld said:


> deleted


----------



## Gellert1

My Epson 5050ub won't show the "frame interpolation" option under any circumstance in the menu. It's permanently greyed out - not selectable. My Amazon 4K fire stick is defaulted to output in 1080p 60hz as evidenced in the Epson's "projector info". I've updated the Epson's firmware to the newest version.

Any ideas what I can do to get it selectable?


----------



## fredworld

Gellert1 said:


> My Epson 5050ub won't show the "frame interpolation" option under any circumstance in the menu. It's permanently greyed out - not selectable. My Amazon 4K fire stick is defaulted to output in 1080p 60hz as evidenced in the Epson's "projector info". I've updated the Epson's firmware to the newest version.
> 
> Any ideas what I can do to get it selectable?


Is there an AVR or prepro between the Fire Stick and Epson that might be set to output the highest resolution compatible with the Epson? If so, set it to 1080p.


----------



## biglen

Gellert1 said:


> My Epson 5050ub won't show the "frame interpolation" option under any circumstance in the menu. It's permanently greyed out - not selectable. My Amazon 4K fire stick is defaulted to output in 1080p 60hz as evidenced in the Epson's "projector info". I've updated the Epson's firmware to the newest version.
> 
> Any ideas what I can do to get it selectable?


Do you have image processing set to Fine? Also, I think I remember reading that FI won't work with 60hz. Try setting it to 24hz. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Gellert1

I do have image processing set to fine. Firestick is set to 60hz, as I previously mentioned. It only allows 60hz/50hz options with 4K/1080/720 output resolutions, no 24hz.
The AVR is a 5.1 Pioneer and doesn't provide any video upscaling on its own. 

When I first bought the Epson, it had the original firmware and an older model fire-cube connected. FI was always available, if needed.

I'm not sure what happened that it's not an option any more. I used to have it set on "low or medium" for 3D discs and it was awesome. Without it, a fast pan in either direction causes the entire image to jitter violently.


----------



## yankiy

Wow. I received my Epson 5050ub today and just finished installing it. I applied the calibration settings from this thread. 
I am absolutely blown away by what this little guy can deliver.

Let me preface this by saying I’m coming from a JVC NX9. I’m planning on selling the house this spring and didn’t want to give that projector with the house. I also couldn’t keep it because I will be building a theater from scratch in the new house which I estimate will take me 1-1.5 years to finish.

I bought the 5050 to leave with the house and to tide me over until the move so I can still enjoy my theater.

Now the fun part... this thing delivers colors, brightness and black levels that just really impress me. If they ever make a full 4k panel version of this thing, I think my future projector will be an Epson. The image this thing delivers is quite astonishing.

here are a couple of samples...


----------



## xplorar

aRTee21 said:


> Sorry for asking, and I don't mean to be blunt, but what's the point of getting SBS or OU 1080p files and going through the effort of getting some way to get those half res files into a framepacked format? Just playing the SBS or OU should lead to the same quality on the screen, right?


Glad you asked. You are right - Projectors can covert SBS and OU to 3D images. So it may seem pointless to convert them to framepacked first through the media player. However here is why its preferable in few situations -

If you have full resolution SBS/OU files (very uncommon) and you framepack them, there will be no resolution loss.
If you have half resolution SBS/OU files (very common), they need to be stretched anyway while being displayed. This upscaling may be better through media player rather than projector.
When media player is processing the 3D file, it may show enhancement options that are not available in projector like - panning, flipping left/right eye images, subtitle depth adjustment and more depending on media player being used.


----------



## aRTee21

Gellert1 said:


> I do have image processing set to fine. Firestick is set to 60hz, as I previously mentioned. It only allows 60hz/50hz options with 4K/1080/720 output resolutions, no 24hz.
> The AVR is a 5.1 Pioneer and doesn't provide any video upscaling on its own.
> 
> When I first bought the Epson, it had the original firmware and an older model fire-cube connected. FI was always available, if needed.
> 
> I'm not sure what happened that it's not an option any more. I used to have it set on "low or medium" for 3D discs and it was awesome. Without it, a fast pan in either direction causes the entire image to jitter violently.


The manual is very clear on this, it only works with 1080p at 24Hz.
Logically, with 60Hz, which frames should it interpolate? It already gets all of them prescribed by the source...


----------



## aRTee21

xplorar said:


> Glad you asked. You are right - Projectors can covert SBS and OU to 3D images. So it may seem pointless to convert them to framepacked first through the media player. However here is why its preferable in few situations -
> 
> If you have full resolution SBS/OU files (very uncommon) and you framepack them, there will be no resolution loss.
> If you have half resolution SBS/OU files (very common), they need to be stretched anyway while being displayed. This upscaling may be better through media player rather than projector.
> When media player is processing the 3D file, it may show enhancement options that are not available in projector like - panning, flipping left/right eye images, subtitle depth adjustment and more depending on media player being used.


Good thoughts, indeed I hadn't thought of that. I'll keep it in mind.


----------



## svusa

yankiy said:


> Wow. I received my Epson 5050ub today and just finished installing it. I applied the calibration settings from this thread.
> I am absolutely blown away by what this little guy can deliver.
> 
> 
> View attachment 3078343


looks stunning.. what kind of screen it is? and did you treat your wall or ceiling with a dark color?


----------



## svusa

Hey Epson Fans,

I just bought 5050UB, I haven't opened the box yet as waiting for other system components to be delivered. One thing I'm struggling with his screen size and type. It is a basement with an open floor plan, walls are not going to be treated (light beige color). 

do you think I can project 165' inch screen image without compromising brightness/color too much. I tried to use a few calculators online but not sure what to make out of it! also, what would be a reasonably priced screen you would match with Epson 5050UB? Hope I can learn a bit from your own experience! Thanks.


----------



## yankiy

svusa said:


> looks stunning.. what kind of screen it is? and did you treat your wall or ceiling with a dark color?


hi Svusa,

I have the Elunevision Aurora ALR 1.3 gain screen. It’s 135” 2.35:1

my whole theateris black with black velvet material on the screen wall, ceiling, side walls and black carpet. Everything else is painted black.

this projector looks odd in there now... the only white item lol.


----------



## svusa

yankiy said:


> hi Svusa,
> 
> I have the Elunevision Aurora ALR 1.3 gain screen. It’s 135” 2.35:1
> 
> my whole theateris black with black velvet material on the screen wall, ceiling, side walls and black carpet. Everything else is painted black.
> 
> this projector looks odd in there now... the only white item lol.


I must say, your image looks as good as my LG OLED.  Thanks for sharing info!


----------



## Zedekias

svusa said:


> Hey Epson Fans,
> 
> I just bought 5050UB, I haven't opened the box yet as waiting for other system components to be delivered. One thing I'm struggling with his screen size and type. It is a basement with an open floor plan, walls are not going to be treated (light beige color).
> 
> do you think I can project 165' inch screen image without compromising brightness/color too much. I tried to use a few calculators online but not sure what to make out of it! also, what would be a reasonably priced screen you would match with Epson 5050UB? Hope I can learn a bit from your own experience! Thanks.


Look into painting the entire screen wall. It will allow you to experiment with screen size and you'll be able to change your mind if you don't care for 165".

Or you can also look into building your screen frame and wrapping it with a projector screen material yourself. This is what I did, but if I could go back in time I'd probably paint my wall instead.

Also everyone is going to tell you to paint your light beige walls! 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## svusa

Zedekias said:


> Look into painting the entire screen wall. It will allow you to experiment with screen size and you'll be able to change your mind if you don't care for 165".
> 
> Also everyone is going to tell you to paint your light beige walls!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I order a cheap 150-inch screen for eBay just to experiment a bit.. any links you could suggest to find out what type of paint I should use?

unfortunately, painting walls wouldn't be an option given the basement will be used as a multi-purpose room.


----------



## aRTee21

svusa said:


> ...
> also, what would be a reasonably priced screen you would match with Epson 5050UB? Hope I can learn a bit from your own experience! Thanks.





Zedekias said:


> Also everyone is going to tell you to paint your light beige walls!


Let me be the heretic by saying: I went from a white (yet structured) wall with a Sanyo PLV-Z4 to a 12$ cloth from AliExpress, and the whole family says it's fine. It's got black cloth around and behind it. Without any side lighting (which is luckily doable to a large degree), the slight waviness is not really visible.
What is discernable on a static, even scene, is the structure of the cloth when I look for it from up close. At viewing distance, it's fine, seems an even white screen.

It all depends on your budget and what you are allowed to do to the room...
Honestly, if you spend over 2 grand on a projector, a few hundred for the screen doesn't seem out of place.

Considering the beige walls, if you can't paint them, is there any way that you could put black/dark curtains or so?


----------



## svusa

aRTee21 said:


> It all depends on your budget and what you are allowed to do to the room...
> Honestly, if you spend over 2 grand on a projector, a few hundred for the screen doesn't seem out of place.
> 
> Considering the beige walls, if you can't paint them, is there any way that you could put black/dark curtains or so?


I agree if there is a real value in getting one of those ALR screens, I would be willing to spend the same price as a projector but to your point, I'm not sure if it is worth it. Since I have no prior experience have no idea at what point these difference in screen material or price would not make much difference. If I talk to HT setup companies or big box stores, it always feels like they want to sell something expensive. 

as far as sidewall is concerned, I'm planning to put a couple of dark acrostic panels. I could in theory paint the ceiling right above the proposed screen location with a dark color. I'm not sure how much benefit it would yield to get the best out of 5050ub.


----------



## tomgru

fredworld said:


> It IS confusing. Let me try to explain as I understand it as simply as possible. First and foremost, the Epson 5050UB is a native 1080P projector. So, it can't put out a 4k signal. It can accept a 4k signal but it breaks it down to 1080P and then pixel-shifts two 1080P signals (doing so actually displays 1/2 of the 4k signal, the other 1/2 is ignored and never seen). The USER INFO screen shows what the projector is being fed. If it's being fed a 4K signal the INFO screen will show 3840x2160, then in the IMAGE Enhancement screen 4K Enhancement will be grayed out and not usable because the projector is already getting a 4K signal. I hope this helps.


This is super helpful but I'm not mine is working right after reading this. My source is a Tivo Mini that will only output 1080p and yet the 4K enhancement option is grayed out. But if I go to the information screen it is showing a resolution of 3840 by 2160. How can I be getting 4K resolution when the Tivo Mini is only outputting 1080P. And yet the the 4K enhancement option is unselectable? Thanks for any help!


----------



## yankiy

svusa said:


> I agree if there is a real value in getting one of those ALR screens, I would be willing to spend the same price as a projector but to your point, I'm not sure if it is worth it. Since I have no prior experience have no idea at what point these difference in screen material or price would not make much difference. If I talk to HT setup companies or big box stores, it always feels like they want to sell something expensive.
> 
> as far as sidewall is concerned, I'm planning to put a couple of dark acrostic panels. I could in theory paint the ceiling right above the proposed screen location with a dark color. I'm not sure how much benefit it would yield to get the best out of 5050ub.


The screen will, more often than not, outlast your projectors for years to come. I’d invest in the best screen you can afford.


----------



## Zedekias

svusa said:


> I order a cheap 150-inch screen for eBay just to experiment a bit.. any links you could suggest to find out what type of paint I should use?
> 
> unfortunately, painting walls wouldn't be an option given the basement will be used as a multi-purpose room.
> 
> View attachment 3078447
> View attachment 3078446


Search for silver fire 2.5 on here. @MississippiMan has many great threads on techniques. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

yankiy said:


> hi Svusa,
> 
> I have the Elunevision Aurora ALR 1.3 gain screen. It’s 135” 2.35:1
> 
> my whole theateris black with black velvet material on the screen wall, ceiling, side walls and black carpet. Everything else is painted black.
> 
> this projector looks odd in there now... the only white item lol.


Why did you choose an ALR screen if you have a fully light controlled black-treated walled theater?


----------



## laoping

yankiy said:


> Wow. I received my Epson 5050ub today and just finished installing it. I applied the calibration settings from this thread.
> I am absolutely blown away by what this little guy can deliver.
> 
> Let me preface this by saying I’m coming from a JVC NX9. I’m planning on selling the house this spring and didn’t want to give that projector with the house. I also couldn’t keep it because I will be building a theater from scratch in the new house which I estimate will take me 1-1.5 years to finish.
> 
> I bought the 5050 to leave with the house and to tide me over until the move so I can still enjoy my theater.
> 
> Now the fun part... this thing delivers colors, brightness and black levels that just really impress me. If they ever make a full 4k panel version of this thing, I think my future projector will be an Epson. The image this thing delivers is quite astonishing.
> 
> here are a couple of samples...


Wondering which calibration settings did you end up using?


----------



## Kieran

laoping said:


> Wondering which calibration settings did you end up using?


I was wondering the same thing. This is a huge thread and lots of "settings" mentioned...


----------



## yankiy

Kieran said:


> Why did you choose an ALR screen if you have a fully light controlled black-treated walled theater?


if I had a dollar for every time I get asked this question... hehehe. It’s because I’m also a gamer and when I have friends over for soccer matches etc, I tend to leave the lights on.


----------



## Zedekias

laoping said:


> Wondering which calibration settings did you end up using?


Also interested in this

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## yankiy

Zedekias said:


> Also interested in this
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I used the ones from here...









The Dreaming Cinema


I thought i'd finally start to document some of what I've done in home cinema as it's a bit of a crazy install, with lots of, mainly second hand, esoteric kit and done on a reasonable budget and with some odd constraints. It is however quite a show and very impressive! Kit Front Speakers - 2 x




sites.google.com


----------



## Zedekias

yankiy said:


> I used the ones from here...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Dreaming Cinema
> 
> 
> I thought i'd finally start to document some of what I've done in home cinema as it's a bit of a crazy install, with lots of, mainly second hand, esoteric kit and done on a reasonable budget and with some odd constraints. It is however quite a show and very impressive! Kit Front Speakers - 2 x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sites.google.com


Thank you. I'll check it out. I'm not looking for a perfect calibration. But it's nice seeing what other people do. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

svusa said:


> Hey Epson Fans,
> 
> I just bought 5050UB, I haven't opened the box yet as waiting for other system components to be delivered. One thing I'm struggling with his screen size and type. It is a basement with an open floor plan, walls are not going to be treated (light beige color).
> 
> do you think I can project 165' inch screen image without compromising brightness/color too much. I tried to use a few calculators online but not sure what to make out of it! also, what would be a reasonably priced screen you would match with Epson 5050UB? Hope I can learn a bit from your own experience! Thanks.


The best thing you can do is take it out of the box and experiment with some kind of temporary screen and find out for you self what will work for you. What works for someone else may not be what you expected. It only needs to work for you.


----------



## yankiy

Here is the difference on my ALR screen with the lights fully on in the theater room and with them completely off...


----------



## laoping

yankiy said:


> I used the ones from here...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Dreaming Cinema
> 
> 
> I thought i'd finally start to document some of what I've done in home cinema as it's a bit of a crazy install, with lots of, mainly second hand, esoteric kit and done on a reasonable budget and with some odd constraints. It is however quite a show and very impressive! Kit Front Speakers - 2 x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sites.google.com


Cool.. even though it's a different projector?


----------



## yankiy

laoping said:


> Cool.. even though it's a different projector?


Its the 6050. Same hardware and config.


----------



## svusa

rekbones said:


> The best thing you can do is take it out of the box and experiment with some kind of temporary screen and find out for you self what will work for you. What works for someone else may not be what you expected. It only needs to work for you.


agreed.. I hope I can lit up a 165-inch screen like @yankiy's HT  given my room walls are not a dark color, I expect the image to be not perfect... looking into sliver fire 2.5 formula and paint cheap screen from eBay to start. Eventually, I'll need a good quality screen.


----------



## fredworld

Zedekias said:


> Thank you. I'll check it out. I'm not looking for a perfect calibration. But it's nice seeing what other people do.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


*See this post *for my suggestions.


----------



## jaredmwright

svusa said:


> agreed.. I hope I can lit up a 165-inch screen like @yankiy's HT  given my room walls are not a dark color, I expect the image to be not perfect... looking into sliver fire 2.5 formula and paint cheap screen from eBay to start. Eventually, I'll need a good quality screen.


I use Carl's felt and it's a good quality affordable option. I project onto a 175" screen in a light controlled room without treated ceiling or walls yet (coming soon) with my 6050 and have no complaints at all other than some minor light reflections I will resolve with black paint in the future. You should have plenty of light.


----------



## Luminated67

yankiy said:


> Wow. I received my Epson 5050ub today and just finished installing it. I applied the calibration settings from this thread.
> I am absolutely blown away by what this little guy can deliver.
> 
> Let me preface this by saying I’m coming from a JVC NX9. I’m planning on selling the house this spring and didn’t want to give that projector with the house. I also couldn’t keep it because I will be building a theater from scratch in the new house which I estimate will take me 1-1.5 years to finish.
> 
> I bought the 5050 to leave with the house and to tide me over until the move so I can still enjoy my theater.
> 
> Now the fun part... this thing delivers colors, brightness and black levels that just really impress me. If they ever make a full 4k panel version of this thing, I think my future projector will be an Epson. The image this thing delivers is quite astonishing.
> 
> here are a couple of samples...
> 
> View attachment 3078343
> 
> 
> View attachment 3078348
> 
> 
> View attachment 3078349
> 
> 
> View attachment 3078350
> 
> 
> View attachment 3078353


Funny I promised myself when I eventually sold my second house I would treat myself to either a NX5 or 7 but when the time came I just can’t bring myself to pulling the trigger and I reckon it’s the quality this projector delivers that’s stopping me.

I’m not claiming it’s as good as the JVCs but each and every time I go into my room and turn it on the image I see before me continues to blow me away.

I’m curious what’s the camera you are using to take these shots and what’s the Image Enhancement preset you are using.


----------



## aRTee21

yankiy said:


> The screen will, more often than not, outlast your projectors for years to come. I’d invest in the best screen you can afford.


Do you have kids, or kids visiting? They won't be able to touch my projector, but the screen is potentially fair game. Nothing worse than grease stains on a screen. On my white wall that I used previously, someone once squatted a mosquito with a tissue.
I'm sure no one but me ever really noticed that roundish, hand sized spot, but in light scenes I typically did.

I have seen quite a few screens at various places of work where people managed to paw things over. Sure, when done right, your screen should last ages. It only takes one stupid, careless or wreckless person to ruin it.

As to ALR screens, if you can optimise the setup, they can be great. I have the projector sideways at the top (facing the right top corner, if you will), so for me a white screen is the best (or just the person sitting on the far left side gets the optimal view). I did check that the angle of view is as close to 180 degrees in all directions as is possible to check, so it's unidirectional. Since the light output is more than plenty even in Eco mode, I'm happy/pleased with my setup.

And that's the true goal, which we all have our own way of aiming for.
So although I realise I just stated something very different from yankiy, in our own way we're saying the same thing, placing ourselves in your situation. We are not you.
Maybe the best advice is to see what's out there, try something affordable and try not to get stuff that you may have to reject later on.
Sure, trying a 12 to 25 $ cloth is ok even if you go for a better solution later on, but you don't want to invest in a 350$ screen to find it doesn't rock your boat, and you needed another that's 500$ (or sillyer, 300$).
Who says you can't iterate to a better solution?


----------



## yankiy

Luminated67 said:


> Funny I promised myself when I eventually sold my second house I would treat myself to either a NX5 or 7 but when the time came I just can’t bring myself to pulling the trigger and I reckon it’s the quality this projector delivers that’s stopping me.
> 
> I’m not claiming it’s as good as the JVCs but each and every time I go into my room and turn it on the image I see before me continues to blow me away.
> 
> I’m curious what’s the camera you are using to take these shots and what’s the Image Enhancement preset you are using.


I’m actually not using any effects or filters. I am using an iPhone 12 Pro Max. Once the shot is taken, I have to fix it by adjusting exposure, saturation etc to match what I am seeing on the screen. I find on dark scenes, it tries to brighten things up too much and on bright scenes it tries to do the opposite. Had to disable smart HDR for photos as that seems to do crazy things to the picture.


----------



## Luminated67

yankiy said:


> I’m actually not using any effects or filters. I am using an iPhone 12 Pro Max. Once the shot is taken, I have to fix it by adjusting exposure, saturation etc to match what I am seeing on the screen. I find on dark scenes, it tries to brighten things up too much and on bright scenes it tries to do the opposite. Had to disable smart HDR for photos as that seems to do crazy things to the picture.


Don’t get me started on what this phone does to projector shots LOL

What about the Image Enhancement settings on the Epson, what preset are you using?

I’m finding less is more, I’ve ended up turning the sharpness do to 2 instead of the default 5 and only use IE preset 2 now.


----------



## yankiy

Luminated67 said:


> Don’t get me started on what this phone does to projector shots LOL
> 
> What about the Image Enhancement settings on the Epson, what preset are you using?
> 
> I’m finding less is more, I’ve ended up turning the sharpness do to 2 instead of the default 5 and only use IE preset 2 now.


Oh. Lol IE I have at 3. Sharpness is set 8. Coming from my NX9... I’m missing the sharpness of the image. I know it’s fake sharpness but it makes me feel good hahaha


----------



## JoelM

yankiy said:


> Wow. I received my Epson 5050ub today and just finished installing it. I applied the calibration settings from this thread.
> I am absolutely blown away by what this little guy can deliver.
> 
> Let me preface this by saying I’m coming from a JVC NX9. I’m planning on selling the house this spring and didn’t want to give that projector with the house. I also couldn’t keep it because I will be building a theater from scratch in the new house which I estimate will take me 1-1.5 years to finish.
> 
> I bought the 5050 to leave with the house and to tide me over until the move so I can still enjoy my theater.
> 
> Now the fun part... this thing delivers colors, brightness and black levels that just really impress me. If they ever make a full 4k panel version of this thing, I think my future projector will be an Epson. The image this thing delivers is quite astonishing.
> 
> here are a couple of samples...
> 
> View attachment 3078343
> 
> 
> View attachment 3078348
> 
> 
> View attachment 3078349
> 
> 
> View attachment 3078350
> 
> 
> View attachment 3078353


Wow, this is the 5050? Mine does not look like this. Can someone point me in the direction to thier calibration settings? I really don't feel like searching through this thread as would like a good baseline.


----------



## biglen

svusa said:


> agreed.. I hope I can lit up a 165-inch screen like @yankiy's HT  given my room walls are not a dark color, I expect the image to be not perfect... looking into sliver fire 2.5 formula and paint cheap screen from eBay to start. Eventually, I'll need a good quality screen.


If you can do a painted screen, I highly recommend it. I did mine with a paint called Black Flame Interstellar. One of the best things about a painted screen, is you don't have to deal with black bars, and having to use masking. The black bars fade away into the Black Flame Interstellar. Kevin Miller professionally calibrated my 5050, and he was blown away by the image. He even said my screen looks as good as his $25k screen. Here's some screenshots of the screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

JoelM said:


> Wow, this is the 5050? Mine does not look like this. Can someone point me in the direction to thier calibration settings? I really don't feel like searching through this thread as would like a good baseline.


What calibration have you done already? Do you own the latest Spears & Munsil Benchmark disc? If not it's highly recommended you obtain a copy. Even if you eventually get a professional calibration, going through and learning all the details available on the Spears & Munsil disc (and on their web site, especially "choosing a colorspace") will provide more information, knowledge, and insight to image quality than almost anything else you can do. This way you'll appreciate a later pro calibration even more if you ever do one. But you may find you don't need one!


----------



## fredworld

JoelM said:


> Wow, this is the 5050? Mine does not look like this. Can someone point me in the direction to thier calibration settings? I really don't feel like searching through this thread as would like a good baseline.


As Kieran said and I now second. See my thoughts in *this pos*t.


----------



## Kieran

Just furthering the recommendation for the Spears & Munsil disc... as a technical contributor / reviewer to Secrets of Home Theater and High Fidelity I had the chance to go to Stacey Spears' house in Seattle many years ago to train on how to run video devices through the benchmark tests that Stacey and Don had developed for the e-zine. Stacey and Don were the original team that discovered and published the now infamous "chroma up-sampling error" (aka CUE) that was so prevalent in DVD players (and tvs, a/v receivers, satellite/cable set top boxes, etc., most MPEG decoders) at the time, but now (thanks to their efforts and much subsequent discussion and such here on AVS and elsewhere) is virtually non-existent in video processing chips, even cheap ones. That early work and development of the "Secrets DVD Benchmark" (along with Brian Florian and a few others at Secrets) eventually lead Don and Stacey to create their first benchmark disc, which is now on its fourth major revision (SD -> HD -> HD 2nd.ed -> UHD/HDR).

I'm writing all that, just to vouch for Stacey and Don. I can say from personal experience that they are truly detail oriented and sticklers for producing perfect test patterns. Unlike some other "calibration" discs released over the years from some pretty famous brands, you won't find any misses or errors in their discs or test patterns. That said, what you also won't find is any audio test files. This is purely for video. Also/again, their technical articles on their site are a must-read for anyone who wants to understand the fundamentals of how to tweak their display(s).


----------



## tomgru

fredworld said:


> It IS confusing. Let me try to explain as I understand it as simply as possible. First and foremost, the Epson 5050UB is a native 1080P projector. So, it can't put out a 4k signal. It can accept a 4k signal but it breaks it down to 1080P and then pixel-shifts two 1080P signals (doing so actually displays 1/2 of the 4k signal, the other 1/2 is ignored and never seen). The USER INFO screen shows what the projector is being fed. If it's being fed a 4K signal the INFO screen will show 3840x2160, then in the IMAGE Enhancement screen 4K Enhancement will be grayed out and not usable because the projector is already getting a 4K signal. I hope this helps.





tomgru said:


> This is super helpful but I'm not mine is working right after reading this. My source is a Tivo Mini that will only output 1080p and yet the 4K enhancement option is grayed out. But if I go to the information screen it is showing a resolution of 3840 by 2160. How can I be getting 4K resolution when the Tivo Mini is only outputting 1080P. And yet the the 4K enhancement option is unselectable? Thanks for any help!


Sorry to bump, but with all the love about screens and calibration, I'm afraid my question got buried 20 posts ago  
Any ideas here greatly appreciated.


----------



## jaredmwright

tomgru said:


> Sorry to bump, but with all the love about screens and calibration, I'm afraid my question got buried 20 posts ago
> Any ideas here greatly appreciated.


Possible that your reciever is upscaling the video?


----------



## tomgru

jaredmwright said:


> Possible that your reciever is upscaling the video?


you see, this is why I love these forums, even though I feel like an idiot most of the time.

I have a Denon 4500 and I'm sure it's turned on there. But if I leave that on and for can enhancement on the projector, shouldn't I get 8K? 

all jokes aside, isn't the proverbial wisdom that the projected would handle the enhancement better than the receiver?


----------



## biglen

tomgru said:


> you see, this is why I love these forums, even though I feel like an idiot most of the time.
> 
> I have a Denon 4500 and I'm sure it's turned on there. But if I leave that on and for can enhancement on the projector, shouldn't I get 8K?
> 
> all jokes aside, isn't the proverbial wisdom that the projected would handle the enhancement better than the receiver?


Yes, turn off all upscaling on the receiver. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## tomgru

biglen said:


> Yes, turn off all upscaling on the receiver.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks so much @biglen !

Any idea what that's called on the Denon? I can't find it for the life of me.

Love Denon, but their manuals are awful. is it called "I/P Scaler"?

*i/p Scaler*
Set the video input signal to be subjected to i/p Scaler processing.
i/p Scaler will convert the resolution of the input video signal to the value set in “Resolution”. link

Analog
(Default):Use i/p (interlace-to-progressive) scaler function for analog video signals.Analog & HDMI:Use i/p Scaler function for analog and HDMI video signal.HDMI:Use i/p Scaler function for HDMI video signals.Off:Do not use i/p Scaler function.
*Resolution*
Set the output resolution. You can set “Resolution” separately for HDMI output of the analog video input and HDMI input.

Auto
(Default):The resolution supported by the TV connected to the HDMI MONITOR OUT connector is detected automatically and the appropriate output resolution is set.480p/576p / 1080i / 720p / 1080p /
1080p:24Hz /
4K / 4K (60/50) :Set the output resolution.


----------



## biglen

tomgru said:


> Thanks so much @biglen !
> 
> Any idea what that's called on the Denon? I can't find it for the life of me.
> 
> Love Denon, but their manuals are awful. is it called "I/P Scaler"?
> 
> *i/p Scaler*
> Set the video input signal to be subjected to i/p Scaler processing.
> i/p Scaler will convert the resolution of the input video signal to the value set in “Resolution”. link
> 
> Analog
> (Default):Use i/p (interlace-to-progressive) scaler function for analog video signals.Analog & HDMI:Use i/p Scaler function for analog and HDMI video signal.HDMI:Use i/p Scaler function for HDMI video signals.Off:Do not use i/p Scaler function.
> *Resolution*
> Set the output resolution. You can set “Resolution” separately for HDMI output of the analog video input and HDMI input.
> 
> Auto
> (Default):The resolution supported by the TV connected to the HDMI MONITOR OUT connector is detected automatically and the appropriate output resolution is set.480p/576p / 1080i / 720p / 1080p /
> 1080p:24Hz /
> 4K / 4K (60/50) :Set the output resolution.


Yes, turn off i/p scaler. Don't turn off Video Conversion if you want the volume bar on the bottom of the screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## tomgru

biglen said:


> Yes, turn off i/p scaler. Don't turn off Video Conversion if you want the volume bar on the bottom of the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


thank you so much!


----------



## biglen

tomgru said:


> thank you so much!


Don't let the words "Video Conversion" scare you. It's not touching the signal, it just allows Component connections on the receiver, to be played through the HDMI out. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## tomgru

biglen said:


> Don't let the words "Video Conversion" scare you. It's not touching the signal, it just allows Component connections on the receiver, to be played through the HDMI out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Now, if it could only say it all in english.


----------



## svusa

biglen said:


> If you can do a painted screen, I highly recommend it. I did mine with a paint called Black Flame Interstellar. One of the best things about a painted screen, is you don't have to deal with black bars, and having to use masking. The black bars fade away into the Black Flame Interstellar. Kevin Miller professionally calibrated my 5050, and he was blown away by the image. He even said my screen looks as good as his $25k screen. Here's some screenshots of the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Where can I buy Black Flame X1/ Interstellar? Does it have ALR properties? I will have some ambient lights in the room.


----------



## Usfighter

fredworld said:


> Nice rig!! Please keep all informed of your progress.


UPDATE!

So No Hassle AV sent a replacement HDMI Extender and it works beautifully. Passes 4k/60 4:4:4 color HDR no problem! If you need an extender this one works great just make sure you get version 1 if you have an Epson Projector. Updated my review on Amazon reflecting this and the great customer service to exchange item.


----------



## acho7

I am looking for someone to install and calibrate this projector. Area code 32968.

Thank you.


----------



## tomgru

Usfighter said:


> UPDATE!
> 
> So No Hassle AV sent a replacement HDMI Extender and it works beautifully. Passes 4k/60 4:4:4 color HDR no problem! If you need an extender this one works great just make sure you get version 1 if you have an Epson Projector. Updated my review on Amazon reflecting this and the great customer service to exchange item.


which one did you get? I'm trying an Orei this week, but to a new TV


----------



## Eskimo1

Deleted - I just got a shipping notification!


----------



## Kieran

Eskimo1 said:


> If anyone has a 5050UB that's sitting in a box awaiting something else that won't be finished until mid-late February and wants to make $100, my room is going to be done probably next week but my order from Dell (despite several assurances of them trying to expedite delivery) won't be here until 2/18, and it's killing me to know everything else will be done, but all I have for a display is a borrowed 720p projector from 2008.
> I think paying someone to ship theirs and then shipping mine in exchange is about the only way I'm not going to miss a full month of using the new room..


What are you waiting for that's coming from Dell, that keeps you from using your system? 
Where do you live?


----------



## Eskimo1

Deleted


----------



## Medality

Eskimo1 said:


> The 5050UB itself - I ordered it on November 30th from Dell.


Wait you ordered on November 30th ?!? I'm in the same boat but I ordered on December 17th. I've got no ETA except a "maybe mid-end of January". If I have to wait until mid-Feb I'm gonna cry lol.


----------



## Kieran

Geeze guys. I ordered from Magnolia/Best Buy at the same time (black-friday/cyber-monday period) and my pj is waiting for me at my local store. Screen is not in yet (due next week) and my room won't be ready for install until end of Feb. 
But I don't think I want to risk shipping x-country 2 pjs that are worth $3k each. Not to mention the warranty confusion and proof of purchase, etc. If you were in my local driving area I might have considered it (I'm in SF bay area CA).


----------



## tomgru

That is a bummer. I actually got mine from Amazon and it was here in like a week... but that was over a year ago. Just looked there, and they are saying March.


----------



## Kieran

A delivery delay can mean only one thing.... "discontinued!"  (with apologies to SW Ep1)
epson's own website shows no stock, too.
I do wonder if this means Epson is prepping for a new UB model soon? Maybe cancel your order, get a cheap projector to tide you over until later this year when the next UB model(s) are released?
I'm half considering doing this, myself....


----------



## rekbones

Kieran said:


> A delivery delay can mean only one thing.... "discontinued!"  (with apologies to SW Ep1)
> epson's own website shows no stock, too.
> I do wonder if this means Epson is prepping for a new UB model soon? Maybe cancel your order, get a cheap projector to tide you over until later this year when the next UB model(s) are released?
> I'm half considering doing this, myself....


Covid my friend, every thing is sold out, try and get a mid to high end AVR, or video card.


----------



## Medality

Kieran said:


> A delivery delay can mean only one thing.... "discontinued!"  (with apologies to SW Ep1)
> epson's own website shows no stock, too.
> I do wonder if this means Epson is prepping for a new UB model soon? Maybe cancel your order, get a cheap projector to tide you over until later this year when the next UB model(s) are released?
> I'm half considering doing this, myself....


I think it just means there are production delays with the current situation.
However, it's true there's a high chance Epson will release a 5060UB in spring 2022, but I'm not willing to wait that long. That and the fact that prices tend to be high for new products. If I remember correctly the 5050UB was selling for 4200 CAD, now it's 3500. Time will tell!


----------



## pdoherty972

Does anyone have an opinion on whether Epson will ever resolve the delay when resolutions change on the 5050/6060 projectors? It’s one of the few things that bothers me about my 6050UB.


----------



## reechings

Medality said:


> I think it just means there are production delays with the current situation.
> However, it's true there's a high chance Epson will release a 5060UB in spring 2022, but I'm not willing to wait that long. That and the fact that prices tend to be high for new products. If I remember correctly the 5050UB was selling for 4200 CAD, now it's 3500. Time will tell!


Only part I find painful is that I could have got the 5050 for around the same price a year or more ago and it will kind of suck to have 6 months or so on the projector and have a new model come out for not much more. Just timing with other expenses etc but now it's getting into a crappy window to look at buying.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

reechings said:


> Only part I find painful is that I could have got the 5050 for around the same price a year or more ago and it will kind of suck to have 6 months or so on the projector and have a new model come out for not much more. Just timing with other expenses etc but now it's getting into a crappy window to look at buying.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


THIS.


----------



## acho7

acho7 said:


> I am looking for someone to install and calibrate this projector. Area code 32968.
> 
> Thank you.


Sorry. Area code 772.


----------



## jaredmwright

pdoherty972 said:


> Does anyone have an opinion on whether Epson will ever resolve the delay when resolutions change on the 5050/6060 projectors? It’s one of the few things that bothers me about my 6050UB.


For me with my 6050 v1.0.3 firmware the biggest factor in resolution time to change has been the HDMI cable and device in use. I switched from a Fire4K stick to Nvidia Shield Pro and now it is nearly instant. Not saying your situation is the same, but something to consider if it could be similar. I am completely satisfied on this firmware with the projector and couldn't be happier.


----------



## yankiy

Has anyone upgraded to firmware 1.4? Does anyone know what it fixes?


----------



## fredworld

yankiy said:


> Has anyone upgraded to firmware 1.4? Does anyone know what it fixes?


Yes. Many here have. It addresses connectivity issues with HDMI 1. HDMI 2 is not part of the update.


----------



## pdoherty972

jaredmwright said:


> For me with my 6050 v1.0.3 firmware the biggest factor in resolution time to change has been the HDMI cable and device in use. I switched from a Fire4K stick to Nvidia Shield Pro and now it is nearly instant. Not saying your situation is the same, but something to consider if it could be similar. I am completely satisfied on this firmware with the projector and couldn't be happier.


I’m using an NVidia Shield also. And the same HDMI cables and receiver switched instantly with my old Sony HW50ES projector.


----------



## jaredmwright

pdoherty972 said:


> I’m using an NVidia Shield also. And the same HDMI cables and receiver switched instantly with my old Sony HW50ES projector.


Consider the HDMI cable then would be my recommendation. It is possible it is struggling with the additional data needs based on the newer projector capabilities. Not sure if you have a fiber optic, but if not try one out.


----------



## rekbones

pdoherty972 said:


> I’m using an NVidia Shield also. And the same HDMI cables and receiver switched instantly with my old Sony HW50ES projector.


Your old Sony was 1080p with no HDR or WCG. All 4K projectors have so many modes to switch to compared to your old Sony HDMI hand shake takes a lot longer to sort out. What your experiencing is normal if you don't want the delay turn off all auto settings and force it into one mode, of course this is less then ideal for best PQ.


----------



## colt9987

Sorry if it’s been posted, but I have searched extensively with no luck. If I am calibrating HDR to an SDR container, should I still be using Digital Cinema with the filter, or Natural since it’s being transferred to SDR. For the most accurate picture in a light controlled room. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## platinum00

if you want rec.709, natural . if you want rec.2020 digital cinima.

lot of factors determine which one to use.

keep in mind, digital cinima is amount 50% light reduction. might be fine in your setup.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Zedekias

Does anyone have any suggestions on calibration settings for football specifically?

I'm not looking at enhancing the colors or contrast. But when the camera is zoomed out showing the whole field, the picture looks terrible. Lots and lots of noise. Jagged edges. And I'm just not sure which direction to do. And of course image enhancement is grayed out when it's a 720p signal. I'm not sure I'll ever understand when image enhancement won't be grayed out. Even though I'm able to select the 1-5 settings? 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

colt9987 said:


> Sorry if it’s been posted, but I have searched extensively with no luck. If I am calibrating HDR to an SDR container, should I still be using Digital Cinema with the filter, or Natural since it’s being transferred to SDR. For the most accurate picture in a light controlled room.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If originally HDR then chances are it’s BT2020 so even though you are transferring to SDR the colour range will remain, best use the filter modes ‘CINEMA’ or ’DIGITAL CINEMA’ and the set brightness and contrast accordingly.


----------



## mon2479

I've been thinking of getting the HD FURY DIVA so I could get dolby vision, but I'm not understanding exactly what this does. Does it take all video and convert it to dolby vision or just an HDR signal? This definitely doesnt seem like a plug and play device from watching a few YouTube videos. Is there somewhere I can go to study up on this?


----------



## djsvetljo

Archaea said:


> Move it 15 clicks out of the exact way you want in one direction. Save it. Then move it back ONLY one direction to the position you want. Save it again over the top of the first save. That ought to fix it. You cannot do small adjustments both ways or it won't save it correctly. There is some minimum amount of change it has to record in order to save it correctly -- something like 10 to 15 clicks so just do 15 to be safe, and ONLY move the direction one way before saving to save correctly. Inconvenient, I recognize, but it worked for me after I read this advice from someone else for my 5040UB.


Thanks. It kind of works for me (off by 3 pixels on average but that is acceptable). What is interesting is that adjusting 15 clicks to the left (or up) then 15 clicks to the right (or vice versa) doesn't restore the image to the same spot. The first 7-8 clicks of the reverse direction don't move the image at all.


----------



## djsvetljo

Luminated67 said:


> I think it’s the e-shift in action, turn off 4K Enhancement and it should go away. Of course if it’s a 4K source material the 4K Enhancement can’t be turned off, it’s only with 1080p material you have the option.


Thank you. You are correct.


----------



## djsvetljo

For any of you with firmware updates issues:
Just did mine and I didn't see any of this posted - the projector takes over 1 minute to read/transfer the firmware file from flash drive. It helps a lot if your drive has activity LED. If it doesn't - be patient. The projector LEDs start flashing after the reading from drive is done and that also takes over a minute.


----------



## fredworld

djsvetljo said:


> For any of you with firmware updates issues:
> Just did mine and I didn't see any of this posted - the projector takes over 1 minute to read/transfer the firmware file from flash drive. It helps a lot if your drive has activity LED. If it doesn't - be patient. The projector LEDs start flashing after the reading from drive is done and that also takes over a minute.


Correct. As in *post #9669*, the instructions quoted from Epson state that it takes 75 seconds.


----------



## JPBoggis

mon2479 said:


> I've been thinking of getting the HD FURY DIVA so I could get dolby vision, but I'm not understanding exactly what this does. Does it take all video and convert it to dolby vision or just an HDR signal? This definitely doesnt seem like a plug and play device from watching a few YouTube videos. Is there somewhere I can go to study up on this?


The Diva doesn't do any conversion itself - it tricks your source devices into thinking that your projector is Low Latency Dolby Vision (LLDV) capable, so that they output a LLDV signal to it (the source devices must of course be Dolby Vision capable.)

This works because LLDV uses the same HDR BT.2020 colour space and PQ curve as HDR10. Because your projector is not able to recognise a LLDV signal the Diva also adds a HDR10 layer so that the projector will automatically switch into HDR mode.

Some devices such as Apple TV4K, Amazon Fire Cube/Stick 4K and selected UHD disc players can optionally convert SDR and HDR10 to Dolby Vision.

Configuration isn't quite plug and play but it isn't too difficult to setup - the HDFury Arcana is the simplest to configure but is more limited in customisation as well as inputs/outputs. The Diva or Vertex2 allow more customisation/flexibility.

Further details can be found in the Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? thread.


----------



## pwf6031

How much better is the 5050UB vs the 3800? I want an upgrade from the 3800. I am debating the 5050ub or the new LG hu810p. I have a dedicated light controlled room. My main complaints on the 3800 is sharpness — I understand it won’t be DLP sharp, but how much better is the lens on the 5050? 85% movies and some gaming.


----------



## MannFan

So if I took this projector out and pointed it against my white wall which looks great to be honest and I'm running it through my Firestick, what are the chances it's pretty close to as good as I'll get it in terms of picture quality? Does calibrating it really improve much when I'm running such a crude setup such as projecting on my painted white wall? 

Thanks in advance. If there's a beginner or any recommendations on calibrations that would help this specific case, I'd appreciate the information.


----------



## mon2479

JPBoggis said:


> The Diva doesn't do any conversion itself - it tricks your source devices into thinking that your projector is Low Latency Dolby Vision (LLDV) capable, so that they output a LLDV signal to it (the source devices must of course be Dolby Vision capable.)
> 
> This works because LLDV uses the same HDR BT.2020 colour space and PQ curve as HDR10. Because your projector is not able to recognise a LLDV signal the Diva also adds a HDR10 layer so that the projector will automatically switch into HDR mode.
> 
> Some devices such as Apple TV4K, Amazon Fire Cube/Stick 4K and selected UHD disc players can optionally convert SDR and HDR10 to Dolby Vision.
> 
> Configuration isn't quite plug and play but it isn't too difficult to setup - the HDFury Arcana is the simplest to configure but is more limited in customisation as well as inputs/outputs. The Diva or Vertex2 allow more customisation/flexibility.
> 
> Further details can be found in the Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? thread.


I see the arcana has an e arc out put for a sound bar, how could I connect my Yamaha rxa 3050 receiver to it? Use one of the hdmi inputs in the receiver?


----------



## fredworld

MannFan said:


> So if I took this projector out and pointed it against my white wall which looks great to be honest and I'm running it through my Firestick, what are the chances it's pretty close to as good as I'll get it in terms of picture quality? Does calibrating it really improve much when I'm running such a crude setup such as projecting on my painted white wall?
> 
> Thanks in advance. If there's a beginner or any recommendations on calibrations that would help this specific case, I'd appreciate the information.


See *this post* and the one that follows it.


----------



## MannFan

fredworld said:


> See *this post* and the one that follows it.


Thanks so much. If I may, what is the purpose of the disc, do you use it to calibrate settings? Is there not just a list of suggested settings? Sorry, I just ask as someone who’d rather not spend the money haha.

Much appreciated!


----------



## fredworld

MannFan said:


> Thanks so much. If I may, what is the purpose of the disc, do you use it to calibrate settings? Is there not just a list of suggested settings? Sorry, I just ask as someone who’d rather not spend the money haha.
> 
> Much appreciated!


*The Spears & Munsil link* explains it better than I can. Using suggested settings is not recommended as every set up is different from throw ratio, screen size, light control, room reflection and source equipment. Diailing in the projector yourself with the disc/instructions is best, unless you go for a pro calibration. As I mentioned in my linked post, "I check my projector's setting about every 150 hours with 4 or 5 basic patterns." Takes me about 10 minutes to tweak.


----------



## rustolemite

Has anybody thought about changing the Fan in either their 5040 or 5050 with a Notuca fan, like the models used on their CPU coolers?
Just curious.


----------



## djsvetljo

pwf6031 said:


> How much better is the 5050UB vs the 3800? I want an upgrade from the 3800. I am debating the 5050ub or the new LG hu810p. I have a dedicated light controlled room. My main complaints on the 3800 is sharpness — I understand it won’t be DLP sharp, but how much better is the lens on the 5050? 85% movies and some gaming.


You will see big jump because 5050ub contrast and black levels are way higher than 3800. I haven't used 3800 but I bought and returned 3700, which was worse then Benq HT2050 at the time. Exactly as you said - very soft lens was my main complain on the 3700.

If you have a light controlled room and watching mostly with no ambient light, 5050ub may be overkill for you - too bright. I have 6050 and I have to artificially darken it (with the iris compensation on the darkest mode) in a completely dark room (120" 21:9, 13ft lens to screen) 15ft sitting distance. This is with brand new unit. If your screen is much larger than mine, or your projectors is further back, the extra brightness will be perfect.


----------



## Commoncents

i just got an epson 5050ub, dumb question, do i need a newer HDMI cable for best picture? mine is about 25ft and 6-8 yrs old, running to a jvcrs10 now.


----------



## jaredmwright

Commoncents said:


> i just got an epson 5050ub, dumb question, do i need a newer HDMI cable for best picture? mine is about 25ft and 6-8 yrs old, running to a jvcrs10 now.


Not a dumb question. Odds are yes you will need a newer high bandwidth cable. Get one that has fiber optic to ensure best compatibility. Search on the forum and you will see many recommendations. Old cables are one of the most common causes for problems with video and delays switching sources.


----------



## djsvetljo

Commoncents said:


> i just got an epson 5050ub, dumb question, do i need a newer HDMI cable for best picture? mine is about 25ft and 6-8 yrs old, running to a jvcrs10 now.


The old cable will probably work fine with 10gbps signals (4k30 4:4:4 4k60 4:2:0 etc) so you can wait and see.


----------



## biglen

Commoncents said:


> i just got an epson 5050ub, dumb question, do i need a newer HDMI cable for best picture? mine is about 25ft and 6-8 yrs old, running to a jvcrs10 now.


Don't get caught up in those overpriced cables though. Blue Jeans Cables makes excellent "active" HDMI cables, that work flawlessly with my 5050ub. I have a 35' one from them, and it's performed perfectly, and I think it was like $60. Guys will try and tell you to get the $120 ones, and they are a waste of money. I actually bought a couple of those overpriced ones, and had nothing but problems with them. As soon as I switched to a Blue Jeans, all my problems went away. Get the Series 3A active. 



HDMI Cable from Blue Jeans Cable



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## RVD26

jaredmwright said:


> Not a dumb question. Odds are yes you will need a newer high bandwidth cable. Get one that has fiber optic to ensure best compatibility. Search on the forum and you will see many recommendations. Old cables are one of the most common causes for problems with video and delays switching sources.





djsvetljo said:


> The old cable will probably work fine with 10gbps signals (4k30 4:4:4 4k60 4:2:0 etc) so you can wait and see.





biglen said:


> Don't get caught up in those overpriced cables though. Blue Jeans Cables makes excellent "active" HDMI cables, that work flawlessly with my 5050ub. I have a 35' one from them, and it's performed perfectly, and I think it was like $60. Guys will try and tell you to get the $120 ones, and they are a waste of money. I actually bought a couple of those overpriced ones, and had nothing but problems with them. As soon as I switched to a Blue Jeans, all my problems went away. Get the Series 3A active.
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI Cable from Blue Jeans Cable
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Do you think this HDMI cable would pair well with this projector?





Monoprice 4K High Speed HDMI Cable 35ft - CL2 In Wall Rated 18Gbps Active Black - Monoprice.com


Monoprice's Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI® Cable features the next generation of active HDMI cable technology. It delivers 18Gbps bandwidth and it supports Ultra HD HDMI video transmissi



www.monoprice.com





I'm seriously eying this projector (would be me my first projector ever) for the media room in my new home currently being built.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

RVD26 said:


> Do you think this HDMI cable would pair well with this projector?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monoprice 4K High Speed HDMI Cable 35ft - CL2 In Wall Rated 18Gbps Active Black - Monoprice.com
> 
> 
> Monoprice's Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI® Cable features the next generation of active HDMI cable technology. It delivers 18Gbps bandwidth and it supports Ultra HD HDMI video transmissi
> 
> 
> 
> www.monoprice.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seriously eying this projector (would be me my first projector ever) for the media room in my new home currently being built.


I have that exact same cable and length. Denon 6700h panasonic ub420 nividia sheild pro and of course epson 5050ub and it works flawlessly 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

MannFan said:


> Thanks so much. If I may, what is the purpose of the disc, do you use it to calibrate settings? Is there not just a list of suggested settings? Sorry, I just ask as someone who’d rather not spend the money haha.
> 
> Much appreciated!


If you don't want to buy one just down load the free one here. HD only no UHD.








AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration


INTRODUCTION This project aims to provide a free set of calibration patterns for high definition (HD) video players. You will find downloads here to create discs for Blu-ray and AVCHD players, a version with MP4 video for computers or other compatible devices, and a Patterns Manual with some...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## djsvetljo

RVD26 said:


> Do you think this HDMI cable would pair well with this projector?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monoprice 4K High Speed HDMI Cable 35ft - CL2 In Wall Rated 18Gbps Active Black - Monoprice.com
> 
> 
> Monoprice's Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI® Cable features the next generation of active HDMI cable technology. It delivers 18Gbps bandwidth and it supports Ultra HD HDMI video transmissi
> 
> 
> 
> www.monoprice.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seriously eying this projector (would be me my first projector ever) for the media room in my new home currently being built.


Test it before install. Also make sure you have easy path of replacing. There is a possibility with active cables to go bad overtime.


----------



## fredworld

fredworld said:


> I got the shipping notice already from Jaspertronics for *my order*. I'll post back with results after inspection and testing.


In case anyone is interested, the new Jaspertronics lamp hasn't arrived, yet, despite Priority Shipping. USPS tracking site says "...will arrive later than expected, but is still on its way." 
It was supposed to arrive on the 15th. This is typical of anything I've ordered that's being shipped via USPS. The UHD disc of Tenet arrived this past Saturday that shipped 1st Class on Dec. 18.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

fredworld said:


> In case anyone is interested, the new Jaspertronics lamp hasn't arrived, yet, despite Priority Shipping. USPS tracking site says "...will arrive later than expected, but is still on its way."
> It was supposed to arrive on the 15th. This is typical of anything I've ordered that's being shipped via USPS. The UHD disc of Tenet arrived this past Saturday that shipped 1st Class on Dec. 18.


Something is seriously up with USPS right now. I am still waiting on an insurance check that was reportedly mailed out via USPS on 12/18 and I just received a letter on 1/15 that was sent out on 12/16. Others have told me they have been having similarly long waits with USPS. No clue what is going on. A courier pigeon would be faster.


----------



## JonfromCB

CinemacDaddy said:


> Something is seriously up with USPS right now. I am still waiting on an insurance check that was reportedly mailed out via USPS on 12/18 and I just received a letter on 1/15 that was sent out on 12/16. Others have told me they have been having similarly long waits with USPS. No clue what is going on. A courier pigeon would be faster.


Sorry about your check but REALLY, you don't have a clue about what's up at USPS?


----------



## fredworld

CinemacDaddy said:


> Something is seriously up with USPS right now. I am still waiting on an insurance check that was reportedly mailed out via USPS on 12/18 and I just received a letter on 1/15 that was sent out on 12/16. Others have told me they have been having similarly long waits with USPS. No clue what is going on. A courier pigeon would be faster.


I saw a news report some time ago that many vendors were declined acceptance of articles by shipping companies, thereby, forcing them to choose USPS. On top of that another report mentioned a large % of postal workers were quarantining on a regular basis due to COVID. Also, read that there was something like 800 million packages backed up.


----------



## rustolemite

Have another dumb question but what settings option would you change to help increase the black levels?
Last night was watching Guardians of the Galaxy 4K and alot of scenes are dark inside the ship and was trying to figure how to make it less "gray" and more black without using Brightness.
I know dumb question but would like some input. Thanks.


----------



## rekbones

rustolemite said:


> Have another dumb question but what settings option would you change to help increase the black levels?
> Last night was watching Guardians of the Galaxy 4K and alot of scenes are dark inside the ship and was trying to figure how to make it less "gray" and more black without using Brightness.
> I know dumb question but would like some input. Thanks.


That's what the HDR slider is for. Not an ideal fix as it only works for one scene this is why we need dynamic HDR tone mapping. Some have just given up on HDR and disable it. MadVR works with dynamic tone mapping but only on a PC with local content.


----------



## Zedekias

rustolemite said:


> Have another dumb question but what settings option would you change to help increase the black levels?
> Last night was watching Guardians of the Galaxy 4K and alot of scenes are dark inside the ship and was trying to figure how to make it less "gray" and more black without using Brightness.
> I know dumb question but would like some input. Thanks.


HDR slider
Try changing gamma to - 1 or - 2.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## RRF

fredworld said:


> In case anyone is interested, the new Jaspertronics lamp hasn't arrived, yet, despite Priority Shipping. USPS tracking site says "...will arrive later than expected, but is still on its way."
> It was supposed to arrive on the 15th. This is typical of anything I've ordered that's being shipped via USPS. The UHD disc of Tenet arrived this past Saturday that shipped 1st Class on Dec. 18.


I am interested.
I had to return a lamp to MyProjectorLamps as it had very low output...less than half the lumens of the factory lamp with 200 hours. It has been a month since they received it back, and still no refund. So I have no spare lamp and no money . I have bought a new lamp from them every 2 years since 2008 and never an issue...but now looking for alternative source.


----------



## pwf6031

Does anyone know if using lens memory I can shift the picture down on my screen to remove the bottom black bar in some widescreen movies and then shift it back up for full 16:9 TV shows, Apple TV’s interface, etc? I have a room with weird placement, and lowering the projected image for times like that would be beneficial. 

Alternatively, the hu810p doesn’t have this feature which I think would be really useful for me. 

How is the overall HDR performance of this projector as well? HDR is important to me.


----------



## rekbones

pwf6031 said:


> Does anyone know if using lens memory I can shift the picture down on my screen to remove the bottom black bar in some widescreen movies and then shift it back up for full 16:9 TV shows, Apple TV’s interface, etc? I have a room with weird placement, and lowering the projected image for times like that would be beneficial.
> 
> Alternatively, the hu810p doesn’t have this feature which I think would be really useful for me.
> 
> How is the overall HDR performance of this projector as well? HDR is important to me.


Yes you can shift the image down, I do this with my JVC and have a drop shade masking panel that covers the top of the screen for 2:35 content. Don't expect much from HDR with projectors as they can't even come close to the 1000/4000/10000 nit movies are mastered in. Tone mapping to what the projector can display is still a work in progress. If HDR is your thing get a high end TV as even lower end TV's suck at it.


----------



## Kieran

pwf6031 said:


> How much better is the 5050UB vs the 3800? I want an upgrade from the 3800. I am debating the 5050ub or the new LG hu810p. I have a dedicated light controlled room. My main complaints on the 3800 is sharpness — I understand it won’t be DLP sharp, but how much better is the lens on the 5050? 85% movies and some gaming.


At this time, since you have a functional projector in your system, I'd hold off until summer and see if Epson releases or announces a new UB version, hopefully with native 4k, or some other update to resolution, HDR, etc. Or if not Epson, see what else comes from other brands in the next couple months.


----------



## Kieran

RVD26 said:


> Do you think this HDMI cable would pair well with this projector?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monoprice 4K High Speed HDMI Cable 35ft - CL2 In Wall Rated 18Gbps Active Black - Monoprice.com
> 
> 
> Monoprice's Ultra Series Active High Speed HDMI® Cable features the next generation of active HDMI cable technology. It delivers 18Gbps bandwidth and it supports Ultra HD HDMI video transmissi
> 
> 
> 
> www.monoprice.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm seriously eying this projector (would be me my first projector ever) for the media room in my new home currently being built.


As I said to others recently, I'd seriously wait for a few months, maybe more, to see what Epson announces for new products this year. This model is getting long in the tooth and while still (apparently - I haven't installed mine yet) excellent, it's kind of wanting for an update. Native 4k is what most want to see, but that may be too much to ask, at least at this price point.


----------



## pwf6031

rekbones said:


> Yes you can shift the image down, I do this with my JVC and have a drop shade masking panel that covers the top of the screen for 2:35 content. Don't expect much from HDR with projectors as they can't even come close to the 1000/4000/10000 nit movies are mastered in. Tone mapping to what the projector can display is still a work in progress. If HDR is your thing get a high end TV as even lower end TV's suck at it.


I have an LG OLED, which I like a lot, but there's nothing nearly as good as a larger screen to me. Fully immersed in this projector experience so far.


----------



## Commoncents

i'm about to mount my 5050ub, current spot is about 15-16ft from 133" screen. should i be trying to move the projector closer? i have a mostly light controlled room, in back of walkout basement that gets some sunset for a bit from behind, but no other windows and usually view at night anyway. I'd rather not move the electrical/current projector mount for jvcrs10 and cut a new hdmi cable access hole but will if there are distinct advantages.

thanks!


----------



## CinemacDaddy

Commoncents said:


> i'm about to mount my 5050ub, current spot is about 15-16ft from 133" screen. should i be trying to move the projector closer? i have a mostly light controlled room, in back of walkout basement that gets some sunset for a bit from behind, but no other windows and usually view at night anyway. I'd rather not move the electrical/current projector mount for jvcrs10 and cut a new hdmi cable access hole but will if there are distinct advantages.
> 
> thanks!


For 133” the 5050UB can be placed between 13’1” - 27’5”. Obviously the closer the better for brightness but 15-16ft has minimal difference in brightness and is towards the low end of this range so you should be fine.









Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projection Calculator - Throw Distance and Screen Size


Find screen size and throw distance for the Epson Home Cinema 5050UB projector.



www.projectorcentral.com


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

FYI
I just bought these https://www.hi-shock.de/en/bt/rf-pro-deep-heaven-fhd3drf and they are friggin AWESOME..
I have both the Xpand and the Samsung cheapos,and both have severe ghosting if glasses brightness is more than low, and even then i see ghosting in some films and on some 3D planes, but these hi-shock have 0 ghosting even on high brightness.. The 3D looks so good..
I had no idea there was this huge difference between 3D glasses,as i thought the technology standard was the same,but the expensive hi-shocks are definitly worth it if you like 3D..


----------



## Kieran

Tsunamijhoe said:


> FYI
> I just bought these https://www.hi-shock.de/en/bt/rf-pro-deep-heaven-fhd3drf and they are friggin AWESOME..
> I have both the Xpand and the Samsung cheapos,and both have severe ghosting if glasses brightness is more than low, and even then i see ghosting in some films and on some 3D planes, but these hi-shock have 0 ghosting even on high brightness.. The 3D looks so good..
> I had no idea there was this huge difference between 3D glasses,as i thought the technology standard was the same,but the expensive hi-shocks are definitly worth it if you like 3D..


Awesome! Good to know, thanks for sharing. I also thought that all 3d glasses were essentially the same, and that the image quality was more dependent upon the display, than the glasses, but it makes sense that the glasses could have a big impact too. I'll keep these in mind; although you are correct they are not cheap.


----------



## Eskimo1

Dumb question, but it seems bad for the unit - I just got my 5050, and when powering it off, it doesn't blow air through the case for a minute after it's off to cool things down.. It just turns it all off. Normal? 
Every other PJ I've ever used ran the fan afterwards.


----------



## fredworld

Normal. I understand your concern. My previous pj was a DLP and the fan ran for several minutes after shutdown. Allow it to cool for several minutes before powering up again.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Kieran said:


> Awesome! Good to know, thanks for sharing. I also thought that all 3d glasses were essentially the same, and that the image quality was more dependent upon the display, than the glasses, but it makes sense that the glasses could have a big impact too. I'll keep these in mind; although you are correct they are not cheap.


I bought the 2 pack, which also came with a very sturdy case to keep them in, and the black version is cheaper, i just didn't see that when i ordered the blue ones. Aldo, they are very comfortable, and they can be used over prescription glasses. Also build quality is a lot higher than Xpand and ofcourse the samsung.


----------



## JoelM

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I bought the 2 pack, which also came with a very sturdy case to keep them in, and the black version is cheaper, i just didn't see that when i ordered the blue ones. Aldo, they are very comfortable, and they can be used over prescription glasses. Also build quality is a lot higher than Xpand and ofcourse the samsung.


The Epson glasses are terrible and thought for sure they would the best option. I think the Elikliv are very good and better then the Epson by a large margin. The Epsons are dark, uncomfortable and have an on/off switch which can be forgotten to be switched off. While you can only test a few brands it is nice to know that there may be other options.


----------



## Kieran

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I bought the 2 pack, which also came with a very sturdy case to keep them in, and the black version is cheaper, i just didn't see that when i ordered the blue ones. Aldo, they are very comfortable, and they can be used over prescription glasses. Also build quality is a lot higher than Xpand and ofcourse the samsung.


Thanks! If/when I need to buy some, I'll have to investigate if this brand ships to USA.  I have 6 pairs of Panasonic glasses for my VT60 plasma. They aren't great, but if they work with the Epson, I'll probably make due. I love 3D movies, but only a few "good" / well done ones, so the % watching time of 3d movies is really low. Means it's tough to justify buying new glasses, esp if the pannys end up working OK.


----------



## RRF

Kieran said:


> Thanks! If/when I need to buy some, I'll have to investigate if this brand ships to USA.  I have 6 pairs of Panasonic glasses for my VT60 plasma. They aren't great, but if they work with the Epson, I'll probably make due. I love 3D movies, but only a few "good" / well done ones, so the % watching time of 3d movies is really low. Means it's tough to justify buying new glasses, esp if the pannys end up working OK.


The Panasonic 3D glasses from my ZT60 worked fine with the Epson 5050uB. 

After installing a fresh battery, all I had to do to register them with the Epson was to hold them about 1 ft. away from the front of the projector, and hold down the button on the glasses. A message will appear on the screen when successfully registered.


----------



## djsvetljo

Eskimo1 said:


> Dumb question, but it seems bad for the unit - I just got my 5050, and when powering it off, it doesn't blow air through the case for a minute after it's off to cool things down.. It just turns it all off. Normal?
> Every other PJ I've ever used ran the fan afterwards.


Normal. It is a big case, plenty of air and surface inside. The smaller projectors, like <$2000 DLPs do that because...they are so small and they run hotter.


----------



## RVD26

What do folks here think about the refurbs sold directly from Epson? It's on sale now, but I don't need one until at least May.
I'm wondering if I should jump on it now or wait.

EDIT: It's sold out now, but still curious to get people's thoughts on the refurb units in general.


----------



## jaredmwright

RVD26 said:


> What do folks here think about the refurbs sold directly from Epson? It's on sale now, but I don't need one until at least May.
> I'm wondering if I should jump on it now or wait.
> 
> EDIT: It's sold out now, but still curious to get people's thoughts on the refurb units in general.


I purchased a 6050 refurb and it was like new. It can be a benefit since it was recertified and has the same warranty. I wouldn't think twice and it saves money.


----------



## Kieran

jaredmwright said:


> I purchased a 6050 refurb and it was like new. It can be a benefit since it was recertified and has the same warranty. I wouldn't think twice and it saves money.


Agreed, the trick is checking their website when they actually have stock and are on sale. It's almost always out of stock. If it's available, buy it right then. Do not think about it. Worst case you sell it for what you bought it easily.


----------



## reechings

Kieran said:


> Agreed, the trick is checking their website when they actually have stock and are on sale. It's almost always out of stock. If it's available, buy it right then. Do not think about it. Worst case you sell it for what you bought it easily.


Yeah I was close to pulling the trigger on the 5050 last night when I saw it was actually there.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## pwf6031

It was restocked today, I was just able to buy one


----------



## Kieran

pwf6031 said:


> It was restocked today, I was just able to buy one


You got the one, apparently. Out of stock already again. Not that I'm buying, just curious/looking. I already have mine purchased and awaiting pickup.


----------



## rustolemite

Zedekias said:


> HDR slider
> Try changing gamma to - 1 or - 2.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Thanks will do that tonight.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

Eskimo1 said:


> Dumb question, but it seems bad for the unit - I just got my 5050, and when powering it off, it doesn't blow air through the case for a minute after it's off to cool things down.. It just turns it all off. Normal?
> Every other PJ I've ever used ran the fan afterwards.


Had the same question with my 6050 but talked to Epson and they said that is normal with this type of projector. I haven’t worried about it since😀


----------



## Cacitems4sale

RRF said:


> The Panasonic 3D glasses from my ZT60 worked fine with the Epson 5050uB.
> 
> After installing a fresh battery, all I had to do to register them with the Epson was to hold them about 1 ft. away from the front of the projector, and hold down the button on the glasses. A message will appear on the screen when successfully registered.


I started another thread specifically around 3D glasses for the epson 6050. I am very pleased with the glasses I purchased and absolutely love the 3D. The glasses linked within a couple seconds when I originally set them up and now turn on automatically when watching 3D content. 3D glasses for Epson projector 6050


----------



## Rymax89

Hello I just got the 6050 any good picture setting that I can get a start on as refrence thank you


----------



## BiNiaRiS

really thinking i'm going to return my 77 CX i've had for 2 months to switch to a 5050UB. i sit about 10ft away and have a 2nd row and i'm planning on a 115" 2.35:1 screen. i've got full light control (still need to order one set of blinds/curtains, but it's a sealed basement with only 2 windows). i used to game much more than i used to but now it's probably 80% movies with tv/games mixed in.

i had my heart set on a NX-5 and was willing to pay the premium but have decided the 5050UB is probably a better starting point for me. if i'm still loving the projector a few years down the road i'd plan on an upgrade.

has anyone else gone from an oled to a 5050ub? i know i'm losing out on dolby vision, and the easy HDR that comes with TVs, but i want a big image for immersion and i think the epson is a pretty good middle ground for the next few years. any input? planning to make the move here in the next few weeks. also planned on starting with a cheaper silverticket screen and again, upgrading down the line.


----------



## fredworld

Rymax89 said:


> Hello I just got the 6050 any good picture setting that I can get a start on as refrence thank you


See *this post*. (Someday I'm gonna stop answering questions like this. My advice doesn't seem to be sinking in.)


----------



## Rymax89

fredworld said:


> See *this post*. (Someday I'm gonna stop answering questions like this. My advice doesn't seem to be sinking in.)


Ok I’ll get the disc but in the mean time any calibration setting to get me started sorry to be a pain


----------



## fredworld

Rymax89 said:


> Ok I’ll get the disc but in the mean time any calibration setting to get me started sorry to be a pain


Not from me, and here's why.... Quoting from post #9853, "Using suggested settings is not recommended as every set up is different from throw ratio, screen size, light control, room reflection and source equipment. Diailing in the projector yourself with the disc/instructions is best, unless you go for a pro calibration. As I mentioned in my linked post, 'I check my projector's setting about every 150 hours with 4 or 5 basic patterns.' Takes me about 10 minutes to tweak."

Ps: plus Lamp age matters, too.


----------



## garnuts

Rymax89 said:


> Ok I’ll get the disc but in the mean time any calibration setting to get me started sorry to be a pain


I used the settings in this article to get me started:

*EPSON HOME CINEMA 5050UB 4K CAPABLE HOME THEATER PROJECTOR REVIEW- CALIBRATION SETTINGS*


----------



## AVTimme

pwf6031 said:


> How much better is the 5050UB vs the 3800? I want an upgrade from the 3800. I am debating the 5050ub or the new LG hu810p. I have a dedicated light controlled room. My main complaints on the 3800 is sharpness — I understand it won’t be DLP sharp, but how much better is the lens on the 5050? 85% movies and some gaming.


The 5050/6050 is razor sharp i tell you. I have a hard time seeing a DLP beating it in sharpness. The optics in 6050 are amazing

but yea, wait for a new UB version! Possibly one with DTM?


----------



## AVTimme

pwf6031 said:


> How much better is the 5050UB vs the 3800? I want an upgrade from the 3800. I am debating the 5050ub or the new LG hu810p. I have a dedicated light controlled room. My main complaints on the 3800 is sharpness — I understand it won’t be DLP sharp, but how much better is the lens on the 5050? 85% movies and some gaming.





BiNiaRiS said:


> really thinking i'm going to return my 77 CX i've had for 2 months to switch to a 5050UB. i sit about 10ft away and have a 2nd row and i'm planning on a 115" 2.35:1 screen. i've got full light control (still need to order one set of blinds/curtains, but it's a sealed basement with only 2 windows). i used to game much more than i used to but now it's probably 80% movies with tv/games mixed in.
> 
> i had my heart set on a NX-5 and was willing to pay the premium but have decided the 5050UB is probably a better starting point for me. if i'm still loving the projector a few years down the road i'd plan on an upgrade.
> 
> has anyone else gone from an oled to a 5050ub? i know i'm losing out on dolby vision, and the easy HDR that comes with TVs, but i want a big image for immersion and i think the epson is a pretty good middle ground for the next few years. any input? planning to make the move here in the next few weeks. also planned on starting with a cheaper silverticket screen and again, upgrading down the line.


have an 55 inch C8 Oled upstairs and the 6050 destroys it. The big screen yet amazing colors will beat any 77 Oled any day


----------



## Rymax89

Lowering the hdr scale closer to 1 does that just make the image brighter?
Also what is time mapping do I need a certain Blu ray player for it is it necessary please help


----------



## Rymax89

What is the iris setting for and should I have it on or off?


----------



## modojojo1

Kelvin1000 said:


> Anyone getting random black screens from signal drops using RuiPro Fiber Optic cables? My cable is 33 feet.
> 
> It’s happening on AppleTV 4K (with and without HDR) and also on Comcast so I assume it’s neither.
> 
> I have a Marantz SR5011 receiver and I also also tried a Pioneer Elite 503 trying to identify the problem but both receiver had the same random results.
> 
> I swapped the cables from the devices to the receivers and used both the ARC and Non ARC inputs on the projector and the receivers. Turned off CEC on all devices as well.
> 
> I also tried a 5V power adapter on both ends of the RuiPro cable and still no luck.
> 
> Waiting on a Monoprice Fiber Optic cable to see if that fixes the problem but I’m at a loss unless there is something wrong with the projector HDMI board...


After searching this thread, I was finally able to come across someone with the same problem I’m having with similar equipment. The only difference is I’m running the 5050UB through a Marantz SR8015 using extenders with cat6a cables and 2 short hdmi cables at both ends. Magnolia did the install and I really don’t know why they went with extenders and the distance between the AVR and the projector is approximately 30ft. They could’ve just used a good hdmi cable. After the Epson’s been on for about 40 min, I start getting random signal drops for 7-10 seconds It gets more frequent as the movie progresses until It drops and may not come back. I’ve tried different extenders and just about everything Kelvin1000 did. I saw his post to late as I have already ordered a 33ft Ruipro cable. I’ll try it out, If It’s still giving me problems I’ll try the Bifale cable, I was also leaning toward heat and the projector hdmi board being the problem.


----------



## mon2479

Hi guys,
So I was hoping to get an answer from someone about picture quality. So I have a Binary 30+ft USB powered cable capable of all the necessary 4k HDR specs according to SNAPAV.COM. So what I notice from my picture quality is that when I watch YouTube 4k HDR videos, they look like my oled tv, almost crystal clear. Then when I stream movies in either HDR or just SDR, I sometimes see blooming in some dark scenes and the picture quality isn't as amazing. If I look closely and look for it, the picture is a bit grainy, nothing horrible, just doesnt look as crazy good as the YouTube 4K HDR videos. Is this normal? 
There are 2 reasons for me not trying a fiber optic cable:
1. My installer ripped mine(Ruipro)while fishing it through the conduit, so I would most likely have to use a cable cover on the wall and not look very clean even though its paint able.
2. The epson is so close to the back wall, I have to slide it forward from its ceiling mount and then have to readjust my 3 lense positions mosr likely, which I hate, since the lense memory is never spot on. Seems like it takes forever to do.

However, If I were able to get that YouTube 4K HDR crystal clear picture quality while streaming all movies with a fiber optic cable, only then would I suck it up and do it.

Thanks


----------



## Gjlaplante

platinum00 said:


> good tip. to confirm.. your taking a nit value using 100% white patch and using that to determine you multiplier ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


that is correct


----------



## djsvetljo

BiNiaRiS said:


> really thinking i'm going to return my 77 CX i've had for 2 months to switch to a 5050UB. i sit about 10ft away and have a 2nd row and i'm planning on a 115" 2.35:1 screen. i've got full light control (still need to order one set of blinds/curtains, but it's a sealed basement with only 2 windows). i used to game much more than i used to but now it's probably 80% movies with tv/games mixed in.
> 
> i had my heart set on a NX-5 and was willing to pay the premium but have decided the 5050UB is probably a better starting point for me. if i'm still loving the projector a few years down the road i'd plan on an upgrade.
> 
> has anyone else gone from an oled to a 5050ub? i know i'm losing out on dolby vision, and the easy HDR that comes with TVs, but i want a big image for immersion and i think the epson is a pretty good middle ground for the next few years. any input? planning to make the move here in the next few weeks. also planned on starting with a cheaper silverticket screen and again, upgrading down the line.


I would go from 77" any technology to 115" PJ any day, especially in light controlled room. 
But if you are certain you will get NX5 one day, 5050 may be a bit of overkill. It will be too bright in that room for that size screen (unless it will sit 20+ft away from screen).


----------



## Luminated67

BiNiaRiS said:


> really thinking i'm going to return my 77 CX i've had for 2 months to switch to a 5050UB. i sit about 10ft away and have a 2nd row and i'm planning on a 115" 2.35:1 screen. i've got full light control (still need to order one set of blinds/curtains, but it's a sealed basement with only 2 windows). i used to game much more than i used to but now it's probably 80% movies with tv/games mixed in.


I'm currently using a 112" 2.35:1 screen sitting 9ft away you will be only a little further away so should get a similar experience. It's good size to use the HDR filter modes CINEMA or DIGITAL CINEMA and still have a perfectly bright image. One thing I would say is unless you have black velvet absolutely covering everything your room isn't 'full light control' all you have is the ability to control the light entering the room but once the projector is turned on the light from the screen is bouncing off the walls/ceiling some of which is bouncing back at the screen affecting your image and ultimately your black levels.

This is a full light controlled room











BiNiaRiS said:


> i had my heart set on a NX-5 and was willing to pay the premium but have decided the 5050UB is probably a better starting point for me. if i'm still loving the projector a few years down the road i'd plan on an upgrade.
> 
> has anyone else gone from an oled to a 5050ub? i know i'm losing out on dolby vision, and the easy HDR that comes with TVs, but i want a big image for immersion and i think the epson is a pretty good middle ground for the next few years. any input? planning to make the move here in the next few weeks. also planned on starting with a cheaper silverticket screen and again, upgrading down the line.


I have debated long and hard about switching to a NX5 but when I switched to the 2.35:1 I made the decision to also switch from white to grey material and frankly the level of blacks I am now seeing will definitely tide me over for a while longer plus the sharpness the Epson can produce still continues to blow me away.










So whilst the NX5 is definitely better I continue to question if it's significantly better from my viewing position to justify the additional cost involved.


----------



## JPBoggis

BiNiaRiS said:


> i know i'm losing out on dolby vision


You can enjoy Dolby Vision on your projector too: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> See *this post*. (Someday I'm gonna stop answering questions like this. My advice doesn't seem to be sinking in.)


Is there anyone who can make a couple sticky posts at the top of this thread? Advice for this disc, plus some nominal settings to (despite advice against it) satisfy people who feel they must do this.


----------



## Kieran

mon2479 said:


> Hi guys,
> So I was hoping to get an answer from someone about picture quality. So I have a Binary 30+ft USB powered cable capable of all the necessary 4k HDR specs according to SNAPAV.COM. So what I notice from my picture quality is that when I watch YouTube 4k HDR videos, they look like my oled tv, almost crystal clear. Then when I stream movies in either HDR or just SDR, I sometimes see blooming in some dark scenes and the picture quality isn't as amazing. If I look closely and look for it, the picture is a bit grainy, nothing horrible, just doesnt look as crazy good as the YouTube 4K HDR videos. Is this normal?
> There are 2 reasons for me not trying a fiber optic cable:
> 1. My installer ripped mine(Ruipro)while fishing it through the conduit, so I would most likely have to use a cable cover on the wall and not look very clean even though its paint able.
> 2. The epson is so close to the back wall, I have to slide it forward from its ceiling mount and then have to readjust my 3 lense positions mosr likely, which I hate, since the lense memory is never spot on. Seems like it takes forever to do.
> 
> However, If I were able to get that YouTube 4K HDR crystal clear picture quality while streaming all movies with a fiber optic cable, only then would I suck it up and do it.
> 
> Thanks


A couple of thoughts on this.... HDR is a bit of a mixed bag, so what you're seeing could be due to the source disc (or stream) itself and your display is just showing what it's fed. Those YouTube HDR clips are optimized to look great. Some movies are done, shall we say, "lazily" and the metadata isn't great, so the projector or media streamer doesn't have good data to work with. This is the argument in favor of movies encoded with Dolby Vision, as the metadata contains frame by frame varying tone mapping. HD10 on the other hand is a boiler-plate set of metadata for the whole movie.
So if your system looks crazy good with some videos and not with others, I'd be blaming the source, not the cable. But that's just a guess.


----------



## Kieran

BiNiaRiS said:


> really thinking i'm going to return my 77 CX i've had for 2 months to switch to a 5050UB. i sit about 10ft away and have a 2nd row and i'm planning on a 115" 2.35:1 screen. i've got full light control (still need to order one set of blinds/curtains, but it's a sealed basement with only 2 windows). i used to game much more than i used to but now it's probably 80% movies with tv/games mixed in.
> 
> i had my heart set on a NX-5 and was willing to pay the premium but have decided the 5050UB is probably a better starting point for me. if i'm still loving the projector a few years down the road i'd plan on an upgrade.
> 
> has anyone else gone from an oled to a 5050ub? i know i'm losing out on dolby vision, and the easy HDR that comes with TVs, but i want a big image for immersion and i think the epson is a pretty good middle ground for the next few years. any input? planning to make the move here in the next few weeks. also planned on starting with a cheaper silverticket screen and again, upgrading down the line.


A user named @Bytehoven has a story in is signature line you might want to read. He was "all in" on the HDR thing with projectors, including MadVR dynamic tone mapping, and the DolbyVision HDFury hack, etc. He finally tried out a 77" LG OLED and even though smaller decided to stick with it. So... just saying it all depends on which is more important to you - that "projection" experience and immersion, or absolute image quality. OLED will win the image quality contest every day and twice on Sundays. 
That said, if you do decide to go the projector route, I'd go with a lower end projector for now, since you say you'd probably upgrade soon. The Epson UB line is due for an upgrade (overdue in fact). I'd put my money into a really good screen first, as that's a pain to upgrade, and will not get obsolete so quickly. Whereas the projectors... there's a new one every 6-9 months from one brand or another.


----------



## mon2479

Kieran said:


> A couple of thoughts on this.... HDR is a bit of a mixed bag, so what you're seeing could be due to the source disc (or stream) itself and your display is just showing what it's fed. Those YouTube HDR clips are optimized to look great. Some movies are done, shall we say, "lazily" and the metadata isn't great, so the projector or media streamer doesn't have good data to work with. This is the argument in favor of movies encoded with Dolby Vision, as the metadata contains frame by frame varying tone mapping. HD10 on the other hand is a boiler-plate set of metadata for the whole movie.
> So if your system looks crazy good with some videos and not with others, I'd be blaming the source, not the cable. But that's just a guess.


I have thought about getting the HD FURY vertex 2 for the LLDV.


----------



## Kieran

mon2479 said:


> I have thought about getting the HD FURY vertex 2 for the LLDV.


Me too!


----------



## Commoncents

biglen said:


> Don't get caught up in those overpriced cables though. Blue Jeans Cables makes excellent "active" HDMI cables, that work flawlessly with my 5050ub. I have a 35' one from them, and it's performed perfectly, and I think it was like $60. Guys will try and tell you to get the $120 ones, and they are a waste of money. I actually bought a couple of those overpriced ones, and had nothing but problems with them. As soon as I switched to a Blue Jeans, all my problems went away. Get the Series 3A active.
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI Cable from Blue Jeans Cable
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


thanks, i ordered one of these! were some cheaper ones on amazon but one and done with BJC which was my last one many years ago as well.


----------



## hungarianhc

BiNiaRiS said:


> really thinking i'm going to return my 77 CX i've had for 2 months to switch to a 5050UB. i sit about 10ft away and have a 2nd row and i'm planning on a 115" 2.35:1 screen. i've got full light control (still need to order one set of blinds/curtains, but it's a sealed basement with only 2 windows). i used to game much more than i used to but now it's probably 80% movies with tv/games mixed in.
> 
> i had my heart set on a NX-5 and was willing to pay the premium but have decided the 5050UB is probably a better starting point for me. if i'm still loving the projector a few years down the road i'd plan on an upgrade.
> 
> has anyone else gone from an oled to a 5050ub? i know i'm losing out on dolby vision, and the easy HDR that comes with TVs, but i want a big image for immersion and i think the epson is a pretty good middle ground for the next few years. any input? planning to make the move here in the next few weeks. also planned on starting with a cheaper silverticket screen and again, upgrading down the line.


I have a VERY similar seating distance and a similar decision to make about 7 months ago. I bought the 77" C9, and it was in the box. I used painters tape to mock the masterpiece on the wall, and when I sat in the chair, it just didn't feel super big. That's when I decided to go projector. I have a 5050UB w/ a black diamond screen, and I love it.

OLED.... I have a 65" B9 OLED in the other room. It's great. Fantastic picture. Do I miss it when I'm on the 115" screen? Nope. Not at all. The 5050UB blacks are great, and I never find myself missing the OLED blacks when i'm watching on it. Also, I game, and the 5050UB has great input lag. 

You mentioned screen. I mean this is where you might notice the difference. If you have a cheap screen AND poor light control in the room, you'll miss the OLED. If the room gets pitch black and you have a cheap screen, you'll be fine. If the room doesn't get fully dark, you'll want to invest in a better screen.


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> Don't get caught up in those overpriced cables though. Blue Jeans Cables makes excellent "active" HDMI cables, that work flawlessly with my 5050ub. I have a 35' one from them, and it's performed perfectly, and I think it was like $60. Guys will try and tell you to get the $120 ones, and they are a waste of money. I actually bought a couple of those overpriced ones, and had nothing but problems with them. As soon as I switched to a Blue Jeans, all my problems went away. Get the Series 3A active.
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI Cable from Blue Jeans Cable
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


When I bought the Epson I had issues getting 4K with my then QED Reference cable, couldn’t understand what was going on and either on here or on AVForums I was told to get an optical cable... luckily at the same time I was going a fibre cable terminated at the house as a homer by a mate who worked for British Telecom, basically explained my problem and asked which cable should I buy thinking dearer was always better but he reply surprised me. He said all fibre cables work identically and if they work all will be the same regardless of price so he advised buy the cheapest with at least 4star on Amazon so you know the quality control is decent which I did and 2 years later it’s working faultlessly.


----------



## Bytehoven

Kieran said:


> A user named @Bytehoven has a story in is signature line you might want to read. He was "all in" on the HDR thing with projectors, including MadVR dynamic tone mapping, and the DolbyVision HDFury hack, etc. He finally tried out a 77" LG OLED and even though smaller decided to stick with it. So... just saying it all depends on which is more important to you - that "projection" experience and immersion, or absolute image quality. OLED will win the image quality contest every day and twice on Sundays.
> That said, if you do decide to go the projector route, I'd go with a lower end projector for now, since you say you'd probably upgrade soon. The Epson UB line is due for an upgrade (overdue in fact). I'd put my money into a really good screen first, as that's a pain to upgrade, and will not get obsolete so quickly. Whereas the projectors... there's a new one every 6-9 months from one brand or another.


 Thanks Kieran...

I tried to provide as much info regarding my journey and thought process, as I took the leap to switch from a very good projection set up, to the LG 77CX.

The 77CX is currently 8' from the front row, and I have not moved the panel in maybe 30 days. This current setup has been working for PS4 gaming, Disney+ streaming, and general movie viewing. 

I would note we still have a second row of seating, and my three college age kids and wife still select their same seating locations with the 77CX as they did with the projection set up. Everyone has not been clamoring for the the four front row seats. To me, that was/is the ultimate test and testament, for the 77CX being an acceptable alternative when SCREEN SIZE is considered.

I would not fault anyone for having different goals and desires for their HT. But as you noted, the path I pursued in an effort to maximize HDR performance on my JVC X990 projector on a 1.28" 2.35 scope screen, covered all of the bases. May I correct one comment, I have not tried the MadVR setup, but I was able to explore all of the other HDR mapping options, including DTM on the Lumagen, DV LLDV with a Vertex 2 + Sony x800, SDR2020 via a Panasonic UB820 and the very best internal HDR calibration options thanks to ChadB. I even had an ISCO III anamorphic lens briefly in the mix.

Among these options, the Lumagen definitely provided the most dynamic HDR mapping asthetics, and I'm sure the DTM has been further refined since the Winter of 2019/2020 when I did the testing. However, with just a little hands on management of settings with even the typical problematic HDR content, DV LLDV was so close, I was hard pressed to personally justify or recommend the significant cost of taking the Lumagen path. I'd note, the success potential of DV LLDV, relies on just how good of a static HDR map you can achieve on the projector. In my case I had ChadB 1000 and 4000 nit static curves, and one of my own sub 1000 nit curves.

Then there is the Panasonic UB820, which IMHO still is the best bang for the buck option for your disc based HD and UHD movie library. Certainly, MadVR is the logical substitute for your library if you have an adequate computer and GPU and can digitize and store all of your content. But back to the UB820, it still shines with the potential of the Optimizer and Dynamic Luminance Slider. Even with the outstanding HDR and DV on the LG 77CX, the ability to dive into the Dynamic Luminance Slider provides for some subtle adjustments in the tone map.

For me, in the final analysis, with all things considered and tested, I could not help but relish the opportunity to sell my JVC X990, and just about pay for both the 77CX and a 55CX for the family room. Much of the other gear I had been able to test dive, I have also been able sell. 

My current gear includes, last gen ROKU Ultra, Apple TV 4k/60, UB820, PS4 Pro with 1TB SSD, running thru a Denon x4300h/3806 combo using a RUIPro 20m 4K optical cable to the 77CX.

LG has been very good with software updates, correcting a range of issues present when I acquired the display last fall. Kudos to LG for its aggressive technical support. I imagine we have Vincent to thank for his product advocacy and criticism. 

CES has announced there will be an 83" version in the LG "C" series product offering for 2021, as well as similar size top tier OLED from Sony for 2021. So if I still had $$$ burning a hole in my pocket, rather than invest in another projector, I'd be looking to move the 77CX to the family room and take a step up in size and performance with OLED in the HT. But honestly, I am in no hurry to make that change. I'm feeling very comfortable and satisfied to let the panel options mature awhile longer, while I enjoy the current set up. If anything, upgrading to a next gen console and full 48gbps 8k bandwidth, would be the logical next step for us, but I'm waiting on the next gen to shake out a clear winner.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Cheers and Happy New Year

Byte
...


----------



## aRTee21

Double bummer...
Plus one highlight.

First bummer: I downloaded the calibration files (from this forum) to calibrate my setup.
I first went on to check and correct the white and black levels (contrast and brightness, if you will). No big problem; I now know that my pc (rgb24 - I may at some point set it to 10bpp, when I get better than 8bpp source material) passes a signal that with the 6050ub on 16-235 range has the righth output, 0-255 pushes up the blinking bars and all the blacks become grey / too light. 
With brightness to 52 and contrast to 48 (or the other way around? I saved the setting, and I can always quickly test again), range 16-235 neatly has bars 17 (black test, file Basic/01_...) and 234 (white clipping test, file Basic/03_...) visibly blinking.

So far so good. I went on to check more of the video test files, and when I got to the colour clipping video in the misc folder, I was shocked to see that red and blue have clearly blinking bars, but green has none!
Clearly my setup is messed up!

I had no time to think on what may be causing that, but I did some more checking and found with screenshots and colour picking, my player (mplayer on linux) indeed on the screen has the exact same lack of flickering on my laptop, but the colour picker shows that the screenshot does have a very minor difference in colour - however when looking at the values of the red and blue bars, I noticed that the R or B value will be in the 230-something range on the bar, and 255 next to it. Yet the green missing bar part has slightly different values for R and B (even slightly above 16, like 21 or so), but green value is always at 255.
So the clipping test is somehow made impossible.
I'll be looking into the playback filters of mplayer.

Highlight:
I received the 4th set of shutter glasses last week, and yesterday it was finally time to use them.
I messed about for a long time to get 3d playback on 16:9 working as I want. 
One of the most annoying things, that really destroyed the experience for me in the cinema viewing of Avatar, was that the subs are identically placed for each eye, meaning the visual (brain) interpretation of the location of the subs is exactly as far as (spot on onto) the screen.
The subs (in German, not really necessary for me since I can follow english spoken movies well enough - though the movie has some indigenous N'avi language fragments, for which I guess subs are really required) were at the bottom of the screen, but whenever something is in view more to the front (more to the left for the right eye, and vice versa), the subs seem recessed into that something.
For me, this breaks the whole 3d effect.
So on the 16:9 version of Avatar, I messed around and ultimately got a playable setup by scaling the movie from 1080 lines to 1030, creating 50 more black lines, modifying the subs to be only on one line, which then fit comfortably into the 50 height black bar.
Yes, I know some may scoff at my 8bpp setup. Some may laugh about my 12USD white cloth stretched in front of a black makeshift curtain. I don't care much about colour exactness (gamma, etc) if things are not wildly off (green should not be clipping where it is, this needs fixing, but otherwise my point of view is that human vision is relative anyway, so if it looks good to me, and not to some device, I don't mind. If it doesn't blink where it should, well I do mind), but freaking subs going through a person standing in front in view, that breaks the illusion BADLY, which is a dealbreaker, and I am really happy I found a solution.

Bummer 2:
During the movie my eldest daughter repeatedly mentioned that she didn't see anything in 3d, so we swapped glasses several times. She kept saying that she would see just 2 slightly shifted images, or unsharpness...
I tried some things after the movie, going back to some scenes with clearly visible parts in front of the screen (like the 20th Century Fox "A News Corporation Company" text at the start, which really pops out), and there she could see it, but said that all in the back was just on one flat plane, no depth there. For other views it was the same, she could see some parts with depth, but not the whole scene.
I'm not sure what to do about that.

Some more notes on 3d: our various shutter glasses.
Admittedly I've been cheapskating there. I got 3 types, all below 20 USD, from AliExpress.
The most expensive type is the best in terms of wearing comfort, and it has the best / lowest level of crosstalk.
Now I'm curious as to how much better than that one the more expensive 50USD and up glasses are.
As for my daughter it looks like the idea of 3d is not going to be a success, I'm not yet sure if I want to invest more...
Anyway, since we were swapping glasses a bit, I got to see a fair stretch with the best pair, and with one of the not so good pairs. Honestly, it's a slight bit like watching through a window, you get a slight hint of the second image, and less is decidedly better, but it's far from a deal-breaker.


----------



## Rymax89

My projector has a 10 second delay when switching to hdr on my Apple TV 4K anyone know a way to fix this can a firmware update fix it?


----------



## Zedekias

modojojo1 said:


> After searching this thread, I was finally able to come across someone with the same problem I’m having with similar equipment. The only difference is I’m running the 5050UB through a Marantz SR8015 using extenders with cat6a cables and 2 short hdmi cables at both ends. Magnolia did the install and I really don’t know why they went with extenders and the distance between the AVR and the projector is approximately 30ft. They could’ve just used a good hdmi cable. After the Epson’s been on for about 40 min, I start getting random signal drops for 7-10 seconds It gets more frequent as the movie progresses until It drops and may not come back. I’ve tried different extenders and just about everything Kelvin1000 did. I saw his post to late as I have already ordered a 33ft Ruipro cable. I’ll try it out, If It’s still giving me problems I’ll try the Bifale cable, I was also leaning toward heat and the projector hdmi board being the problem.


I currently use a 33ft ruipro fiber hdmi with the 5050 and denon x3600h. No signal dropouts for me. Just long waits between input/resolution changes. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Sorny

Rymax89 said:


> My projector has a 10 second delay when switching to hdr on my Apple TV 4K anyone know a way to fix this can a firmware update fix it?


I'd guess the delay you're talking about is the HDMI handshake required when changing frame rates, not HDR to SDR change. HDR and SDR only change does not take more than about a second on my 5050UB.


----------



## carmona

Barring any consideration of cost, what are the absolute best 3d glasses to pair with the Epson 6050 projector. Thanks!


----------



## fredworld

modojojo1 said:


> After searching this thread, I was finally able to come across someone with the same problem I’m having with similar equipment. The only difference is I’m running the 5050UB through a Marantz SR8015 using extenders with cat6a cables and 2 short hdmi cables at both ends. Magnolia did the install and I really don’t know why they went with extenders and the distance between the AVR and the projector is approximately 30ft. They could’ve just used a good hdmi cable. After the Epson’s been on for about 40 min, I start getting random signal drops for 7-10 seconds It gets more frequent as the movie progresses until It drops and may not come back. I’ve tried different extenders and just about everything Kelvin1000 did. I saw his post to late as I have already ordered a 33ft Ruipro cable. I’ll try it out, If It’s still giving me problems I’ll try the Bifale cable, I was also leaning toward heat and the projector hdmi board being the problem.





Zedekias said:


> I currently use a 33ft ruipro fiber hdmi with the 5050 and denon x3600h. No signal dropouts for me. Just long waits between input/resolution changes.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


There are a number of very good to excellent 30'+ HDMI 4K certified cables that will negate the use of extenders, the Ruipro as mentioned above, *Blue Jeans*, and *Redmere Elite* that I use in a 35' length as some examples. I'd ditch the extender and go with a straight run of any of these recommended cables. I think the SOP for Magnolia/Best Buy is to use extenders for anything over 15-20'. When I declined their offer for such (a $2-300+ extra cost when I was buying my 5050UB) and I explained what I'd be using I was told, "We'd never offer something like that." As usual, YMMV. I hope you can sort it out.


----------



## aoaaron

Bytehoven said:


> Thanks Kieran...
> 
> I tried to provide as much info regarding my journey and thought process, as I took the leap to switch from a very good projection set up, to the LG 77CX.
> 
> The 77CX is currently 8' from the front row, and I have not moved the panel in maybe 30 days. This current setup has been working for PS4 gaming, Disney+ streaming, and general movie viewing.
> 
> I would note we still have a second row of seating, and my three college age kids and wife still select their same seating locations with the 77CX as they did with the projection set up. Everyone has not been clamoring for the the four front row seats. To me, that was/is the ultimate test and testament, for the 77CX being an acceptable alternative when SCREEN SIZE is considered.
> 
> I would not fault anyone for having different goals and desires for their HT. But as you noted, the path I pursued in an effort to maximize HDR performance on my JVC X990 projector on a 1.28" 2.35 scope screen, covered all of the bases. May I correct one comment, I have not tried the MadVR setup, but I was able to explore all of the other HDR mapping options, including DTM on the Lumagen, DV LLDV with a Vertex 2 + Sony x800, SDR2020 via a Panasonic UB820 and the very best internal HDR calibration options thanks to ChadB. I even had an ISCO III anamorphic lens briefly in the mix.
> 
> Among these options, the Lumagen definitely provided the most dynamic HDR mapping asthetics, and I'm sure the DTM has been further refined since the Winter of 2019/2020 when I did the testing. However, with just a little hands on management of settings with even the typical problematic HDR content, DV LLDV was so close, I was hard pressed to personally justify or recommend the significant cost of taking the Lumagen path. I'd note, the success potential of DV LLDV, relies on just how good of a static HDR map you can achieve on the projector. In my case I had ChadB 1000 and 4000 nit static curves, and one of my own sub 1000 nit curves.
> 
> Then there is the Panasonic UB820, which IMHO still is the best bang for the buck option for your disc based HD and UHD movie library. Certainly, MadVR is the logical substitute for your library if you have an adequate computer and GPU and can digitize and store all of your content. But back to the UB820, it still shines with the potential of the Optimizer and Dynamic Luminance Slider. Even with the outstanding HDR and DV on the LG 77CX, the ability to dive into the Dynamic Luminance Slider provides for some subtle adjustments in the tone map.
> 
> For me, in the final analysis, with all things considered and tested, I could not help but relish the opportunity to sell my JVC X990, and just about pay for both the 77CX and a 55CX for the family room. Much of the other gear I had been able to test dive, I have also been able sell.
> 
> My current gear includes, last gen ROKU Ultra, Apple TV 4k/60, UB820, PS4 Pro with 1TB SSD, running thru a Denon x4300h/3806 combo using a RUIPro 20m 4K optical cable to the 77CX.
> 
> LG has been very good with software updates, correcting a range of issues present when I acquired the display last fall. Kudos to LG for its aggressive technical support. I imagine we have Vincent to thank for his product advocacy and criticism.
> 
> CES has announced there will be an 83" version in the LG "C" series product offering for 2021, as well as similar size top tier OLED from Sony for 2021. So if I still had $$$ burning a hole in my pocket, rather than invest in another projector, I'd be looking to move the 77CX to the family room and take a step up in size and performance with OLED in the HT. But honestly, I am in no hurry to make that change. I'm feeling very comfortable and satisfied to let the panel options mature awhile longer, while I enjoy the current set up. If anything, upgrading to a next gen console and full 48gbps 8k bandwidth, would be the logical next step for us, but I'm waiting on the next gen to shake out a clear winner.
> 
> Let me know if you have any questions.
> 
> Cheers and Happy New Year
> 
> Byte
> ...



I went from a Projector to a 77 OLEd to a projector and the 77'' OLED was beautiful but it sucked as a cinematic experience. Everyone preferred the projector.

I did the 8-9ft thing too and it just felt claustrophobic and horrible. It was... fine. Like as fine as sitting 6ft from a 65'' TV is. But thats about it. 

I preferred the OLED for games. For films it was too small. For games it was fine but not as immersive.

LG OLED problems
1. Banding
2. DSE on whites
3. Motion sucks
4. ABL
5. Flickering in DV
6. Raised blacks with HDMI 2.1

When I went to a 77 inch OLED, I no longer had a home theatre. I had a TV again. It wasn't a home cinema, it was just a big TV with some good gear.


----------



## aoaaron

Kieran said:


> A user named @Bytehoven has a story in is signature line you might want to read. He was "all in" on the HDR thing with projectors, including MadVR dynamic tone mapping, and the DolbyVision HDFury hack, etc. He finally tried out a 77" LG OLED and even though smaller decided to stick with it. So... just saying it all depends on which is more important to you - that "projection" experience and immersion, or absolute image quality. OLED will win the image quality contest every day and twice on Sundays.
> That said, if you do decide to go the projector route, I'd go with a lower end projector for now, since you say you'd probably upgrade soon. The Epson UB line is due for an upgrade (overdue in fact). I'd put my money into a really good screen first, as that's a pain to upgrade, and will not get obsolete so quickly. Whereas the projectors... there's a new one every 6-9 months from one brand or another.



Kieran, projector wise I'd say projectors hold their value and get upgraded far less than TVs. TVs get pumped out every single year, and get discounted every single time of the year. 

Projectors simply don't if we only take into account the good brands
1. Epson
2. Sony
3. JVC 

Each respective company's projector has been out for AGES and has remained the flagship for years. 

I agree with you int hat I would buy a cheap projector which has 90% of the functionality of the newer models and then sell it when the new projectors come out and buy those. New projectors will likely be out in the wild Q4 2021 or in JVC's case Q1 2022 due to stocking shortages. 


There is a big difference between a projector and OLED TV size; there is no getting away from the difference in experience. 





Visual TV Size Comparison : 110 inch 16x9 display vs 77 inch 16x9 display


Visual size comparison of a 110 inch 16x9 display vs 77 inch 16x9 display



www.displaywars.com





Its like a postage stamp, especially when you add black bars from films.


----------



## modojojo1

Searching around the internet, I finally found my problem. Unfortunately the easiest fix for now is pulling the Sony oled hdmi cable out from the hdmi out 1 port on the back of the Marantz AVR. Once I do that I get no dropouts what so ever..... well here’s the issue that relates to me...For others reading this, here is some information. Some Android based TV's will poll the av receiver they are attached to even when they are in standby. If you have a receiver that has two outputs and one is going to a pj and the other is going to a tv this will cause the cyclical drop out that some have experienced. On Sony tv's it's possible to alter a setting in them to stop this behaviour (can't remember which it was when i did it on my old A1OLED). Switching the TV off at the power socket stops it as well, but is a bit over the top.... This behaviour affects not just Denon receivers. I have come across clients with other manufacturers units where the same thing has happened. The OP's problem does appear to be some sort of edid thing though but thought i'd mention this here as it might be useful in future if someone is searching for drop out fixes..If anyone knows the setting on the TV it would be a great help. I already tried turning off cec, Bravia sync, and standby mode, but I’ll still get the dropouts un less I pull the tv’s hdmi cable out of the AVR. I have a atlona 4kuhd sync as well as a matrix switcher on order, hopefully one of them may solve my problem.


----------



## mauro145

Kieran said:


> Me too!


You could also use drhdmi4k. You would lose a few tweaks and also will need to set the dynamic range to hdr10 manually.

Enviado desde mi CPH2069 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Anyone got new OEM lamps that actually fit the projector? I have returned mine to Lamps & Parts and are hoping for a refund and ordered original lamps,as i dare not make same mistake again until confirmed oem lamps will fit and if they produce same light output as originals..


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Anyone got new OEM lamps that actually fit the projector? I have returned mine to Lamps & Parts and are hoping for a refund and ordered original lamps,as i dare not make same mistake again until confirmed oem lamps will fit and if they produce same light output as originals..


Mine is supposed to arrive today from Jaspertronics after significant USPS delay. I'll post back with results this week.


----------



## Eskimo1

I'm _very_ happy with the picture from this sucker! I didn't done the full calibration yet, just some basic stuff, these were taken in digital cinema mode. It's hard to tell where the picture ends and where the screen ends (the last photo from Aquaman). Granted, my room is _extremely_ light controlled (triple black velvet ceiling, matte black spandex around the screen), but I didn't alter these photos at all. (You can see a _little_ bit of light reflecting off the 1st row sofa) - the 5050's masking feature is fantastic when zoomed out to 2.40:1, as the native projection size now extends to the ceiling! (When it's done zooming out, I get the banner for the lens memory displayed on one of the Atmos speakers if that gives you an idea)


























The PJ is right above my head - since I'm running digital cinema with the lamp on full, the fan is noticeable with no other sound present (the room is also heavily damped so the noise floor is low), but as soon as anything is played, you can't hear it at all. It's a tradeoff I'll take for this picture!


----------



## Kieran

aoaaron said:


> Kieran, projector wise I'd say projectors hold their value and get upgraded far less than TVs. TVs get pumped out every single year, and get discounted every single time of the year.
> 
> Projectors simply don't if we only take into account the good brands
> 1. Epson
> 2. Sony
> 3. JVC
> 
> Each respective company's projector has been out for AGES and has remained the flagship for years.
> 
> I agree with you int hat I would buy a cheap projector which has 90% of the functionality of the newer models and then sell it when the new projectors come out and buy those. New projectors will likely be out in the wild Q4 2021 or in JVC's case Q1 2022 due to stocking shortages.
> 
> 
> There is a big difference between a projector and OLED TV size; there is no getting away from the difference in experience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Visual TV Size Comparison : 110 inch 16x9 display vs 77 inch 16x9 display
> 
> 
> Visual size comparison of a 110 inch 16x9 display vs 77 inch 16x9 display
> 
> 
> 
> www.displaywars.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its like a postage stamp, especially when you add black bars from films.


I agree in general! Looking forward to my first Projector-centered system ever as soon as our room addition is complete. I currently have a 65" vt60 Panasonic plasma. I do think that in general though, especially for "family" or "media" shared-use rooms (i.e. not a dedicated fully light controlled theater) that OLED (or even plasma for SDR 1080p comparisons) will generally provide a better image quality experience, but will of course lack that immersion aspect. 
I wonder if the delta will shrink further with this year's release of 85" HDR/4k OLED displays....? Gotta think that people with (or considering) a 90" or 100" projection screen, that 85" with direct display contrast and light output might win out.

The other thing many don't consider is the single feature that drove me and my wife to go with a projector: *a retractable screen.*

For our new addition's family room, my wife really didn't want to see a big black screen on the wall all the time. So I started researching retractable projector screens. It's about 2x the cost, but was worth it for us, and will result in a much more fun/immersive movie experience with a 110" 16:9 screen (compared to a 77" OLED we might have got instead). The projector will hide inside a soffit, so the system almost disappears when not in use: all surround speakers are in-wall, so only the front LCR speakers will remain visible, along with the AVR/source in a cabinet under the screen.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Anyone got new OEM lamps that actually fit the projector? I have returned mine to Lamps & Parts and are hoping for a refund and ordered original lamps,as i dare not make same mistake again until confirmed oem lamps will fit and if they produce same light output as originals..


This is a US based company but Projector Lamp Replacements | Original Projector Bulbs is an excellent resource for lamps.

- Jason


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Anyone got new OEM lamps that actually fit the projector? I have returned mine to Lamps & Parts and are hoping for a refund and ordered original lamps,as i dare not make same mistake again until confirmed oem lamps will fit and if they produce same light output as originals..


The Jaspertronics lamp arrived today. Same issue as the two lamps I received from MyProjectorLamps. The housing screws are oversized.


----------



## jaredmwright

fredworld said:


> The Jaspertronics lamp arrived today. Same issue as the two lamps I received from MyProjectorLamps. The housing screws are oversized.
> View attachment 3083354
> View attachment 3083355


Is it possible to change the housing screws over from the factory to the new lamp? Also, which picture is the factory housing and screws? (smaller or larger diameter)


----------



## fredworld

jaredmwright said:


> Is it possible to change the housing screws over from the factory to the new lamp? Also, which picture is the factory housing and screws? (smaller or larger diameter)


The larger/oversized screws are on the Jaspertronics lamp. I presume the screws can be changed out but I'm not about to do that for what I paid for the lamp. I'm weird, I know, but I expect the lamp to perform as advertised without end-user alterations.


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> The larger/oversized screws are on the Jaspertronics lamp. I presume the screws can be changed out but I'm not about to do that for what I paid for the lamp. I'm weird, I know, but I expect the lamp to perform as advertised without end-user alterations.


@fredworld I think you've responded to that question almost as much as to the "what settings should I use" question. LOL


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Anyone got new OEM lamps that actually fit the projector? I have returned mine to Lamps & Parts and are hoping for a refund and ordered original lamps,as i dare not make same mistake again until confirmed oem lamps will fit.





fredworld said:


> The Jaspertronics lamp arrived today. Same issue as the two lamps I received from MyProjectorLamps. The housing screws are oversized.
> View attachment 3083354
> View attachment 3083355


Exactly what i feared,as they are probably ALL made in the same factory regardless of online store.. They are faulty from at least 3 different stores on 2 continents,so it must be a generic problem from the factory..

However, its hard to see in your picture,but did you measure both screws in the thread? looks like you might have measured the original either behind the thread or the jaws have sunk into the thread and thus providing a wrong measurement?

I had to get paypal involved to get seller motivated to issue a return for mine.. Time will tell if i ever get my money back.. And i have ordered 2 original lamps which are on backorder, but tsince i am used to very expensive lamps on my old sony, i am quite content only buying original from here on out.. Provided Epson will continue to make them,or we will be **** out of luck..

A previous post did exchange the screws from the original housing to the oem,but that is not what i paid for,and when there is also reports about the oems only having half the light output,i am not confindent i will ever use oems for this projector..


----------



## Jefro6996

Did a quick search of the thread but couldn't find anything related to my issue. Just bought a 5050 and got the image centered perfectly on my scope screen with lens memory for both a 2:35:1 and a 16:9 image. However, every single time I start the projector after not using it for a day or so the image seems to show a 1" black bar on the top and I need to manually use lens shift to adjust the image. This happens every single time. Using a chief RPMAU mount and everything is tightened up. Any ideas? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Jefro6996 said:


> Did a quick search of the thread but couldn't find anything related to my issue. Just bought a 5050 and got the image centered perfectly on my scope screen with lens memory for both a 2:35:1 and a 16:9 image. However, every single time I start the projector after not using it for a day or so the image seems to show a 1" black bar on the top and I need to manually use lens shift to adjust the image. This happens every single time. Using a chief RPMAU mount and everything is tightened up. Any ideas?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


See *this post* from a month ago.


----------



## Jefro6996

fredworld said:


> See *this post* from a month ago.


Thank you!!! Apparently I'm not that great at searching, but I really do appreciate the quick response. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> ... its hard to see in your picture,but did you measure both screws in the thread? looks like you might have measured the original either behind the thread or the jaws have sunk into the thread and thus providing a wrong measurement?
> ....


I measured the width of the shaft. I don't have the proper tools to measure thread pitch. 
FWIW, the lamp, itself, was an USHIO, the packaging looked like Epson. It came with a blade screwdriver that, obviously, was incorrect and too wide, also. The housings looked identical except for the manufacturing inscriptions. Jaspertronics has already sent me a return shipping label. 
BTW, I asked Epson if they could sell me the screws but they don't do that.


----------



## ray-finkle

Eskimo1 said:


> I'm _very_ happy with the picture from this sucker! I didn't done the full calibration yet, just some basic stuff, these were taken in digital cinema mode. It's hard to tell where the picture ends and where the screen ends (the last photo from Aquaman). Granted, my room is _extremely_ light controlled (triple black velvet ceiling, matte black spandex around the screen), but I didn't alter these photos at all. (You can see a _little_ bit of light reflecting off the 1st row sofa) - the 5050's masking feature is fantastic when zoomed out to 2.40:1, as the native projection size now extends to the ceiling! (When it's done zooming out, I get the banner for the lens memory displayed on one of the Atmos speakers if that gives you an idea)
> View attachment 3083207
> View attachment 3083208
> View attachment 3083209
> View attachment 3083210
> 
> 
> The PJ is right above my head - since I'm running digital cinema with the lamp on full, the fan is noticeable with no other sound present (the room is also heavily damped so the noise floor is low), but as soon as anything is played, you can't hear it at all. It's a tradeoff I'll take for this picture!


What type of screen do you have? Are you saying letterboxing is barely noticeable against the velvet? My room is blacked out with velvet and letterboxing is much lighter...

Also, what masking feature? We just have lens memory...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

DaGamePimp said:


> This is a US based company but Projector Lamp Replacements | Original Projector Bulbs is an excellent resource for lamps.
> 
> - Jason


Per my previous post above regarding Pureland Supply, the Epson 5050ub lamp (L89) that I received from them uses the same size screws and it uses the exact same OSRAM lamp as the original from Epson (the housing looks identical as well). These also come with a 180 day warranty.

Of course the best option is to get the lamps direct from Epson (or an authorized dealer) but when the official Epson lamps are not available these are a solid cost effective alternative (or just to have a spare on hand should a lamp fail).

- Jason


----------



## Luminated67

ray-finkle said:


> What type of screen do you have? Are you saying letterboxing is barely noticeable against the velvet? My room is blacked out with velvet and letterboxing is much lighter...
> 
> Also, what masking feature? We just have lens memory...
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


The Epson has a blanking feature that allows you to blank down all sides, once done you can save this as you would any other lens memory preset.


----------



## Eskimo1

ray-finkle said:


> What type of screen do you have? Are you saying letterboxing is barely noticeable against the velvet? My room is blacked out with velvet and letterboxing is much lighter...
> 
> Also, what masking feature? We just have lens memory...
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


DIY spandex, there's a link in my sig. 

Look in the settings, there's a masking option.. It works great. I think I'm at 16 on top & bottom.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> I measured the width of the shaft. I don't have the proper tools to measure thread pitch.
> FWIW, the lamp, itself, was an USHIO, the packaging looked like Epson. It came with a blade screwdriver that, obviously, was incorrect and too wide, also. The housings looked identical except for the manufacturing inscriptions. Jaspertronics has already sent me a return shipping label.
> BTW, I asked Epson if they could sell me the screws but they don't do that.


This is weird. OEM lamps in what appears to be a genuine box.. Something is rotten somewhere.. My OEMs came like this


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> This is weird. OEM lamps in what appears to be a genuine box.. Something is rotten somewhere.. My OEMs came like this
> View attachment 3083570


From whom did you buy them? Have you installed them to test?


----------



## ray-finkle

Luminated67 said:


> The Epson has a blanking feature that allows you to blank down all sides, once done you can save this as you would any other lens memory preset.


Wow I had no idea. I'll check it out. Thanks guys

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> From whom did you buy them? Have you installed them to test?


Ofcourse i have,they didnt fit as screws wont thread into projector. Screws also measured 0.3mm too large,same as all the other oem reported here.. Bought in EU from Lamps&Parts


----------



## Luminated67

ray-finkle said:


> Wow I had no idea. I'll check it out. Thanks guys
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


It's in the settings menu.


----------



## fredworld

DaGamePimp said:


> Per my previous post above regarding Pureland Supply, the Epson 5050ub lamp (L89) that I received from them uses the same size screws and it uses the exact same OSRAM lamp as the original from Epson (the housing looks identical as well). These also come with a 180 day warranty.
> 
> Of course the best option is to get the lamps direct from Epson (or an authorized dealer) but when the official Epson lamps are not available these are a solid cost effective alternative (or just to have a spare on hand should a lamp fail).
> 
> - Jason


Looks like Pureland might be my next stop after my refund. When did you purchase your last lamp from them for your 5050?


----------



## RRF

fredworld said:


> Looks like Pureland might be my next stop after my refund. When did you purchase your last lamp from them for your 5050?


At least you got a refund.
It has been 3 weeks since MyProjectorLamps Canada has had my returned lamp in their possession, and no refund or reply to email inquiries as to the delay.

The lamp I received, fit, but had very low output. 
It measured 17cd/m2 vs 27cd/m2 on the factory lamp _(200 hours)_, with no change to the test setup other than swapping out the factory lamp for the replacement.

I have been buying a new lamp from MyProjectorLamps every 2 years since 2010 for my AE2000U, and never had an issue.

I asked for a refund instead of an exchange, until I hear the screw sizing issue has been resolved. I am not going to continue paying the return shipping for faulty lamps.

My only recourse seems to be asking PayPal to get involved.


----------



## DaGamePimp

fredworld said:


> Looks like Pureland might be my next stop after my refund. When did you purchase your last lamp from them for your 5050?


Sept. 3rd 2020.

- Jason


----------



## Medality

RRF said:


> At least you got a refund.
> It has been 3 weeks since MyProjectorLamps Canada has had my returned lamp in their possession, and no refund or reply to email inquiries as to the delay.
> 
> The lamp I received, fit, but had very low output.
> It measured 17cd/m2 vs 27cd/m2 on the factory lamp _(200 hours)_, with no change to the test setup other than swapping out the factory lamp for the replacement.
> 
> I have been buying a new lamp from MyProjectorLamps every 2 years since 2010 for my AE2000U, and never had an issue.
> 
> I asked for a refund instead of an exchange, until I hear the screw sizing issue has been resolved. I am not going to continue paying the return shipping for faulty lamps.
> 
> My only recourse seems to be asking PayPal to get involved.


That's weird. They claim to use the OEM bulb, just like Pureland. Maybe it was a bad unit?


----------



## fredworld

RRF said:


> At least you got a refund.
> It has been 3 weeks since MyProjectorLamps Canada has had my returned lamp in their possession, and no refund or reply to email inquiries as to the delay.
> 
> The lamp I received, fit, but had very low output.
> It measured 17cd/m2 vs 27cd/m2 on the factory lamp _(200 hours)_, with no change to the test setup other than swapping out the factory lamp for the replacement.
> 
> I have been buying a new lamp from MyProjectorLamps every 2 years since 2010 for my AE2000U, and never had an issue.
> 
> I asked for a refund instead of an exchange, until I hear the screw sizing issue has been resolved. I am not going to continue paying the return shipping for faulty lamps.
> 
> My only recourse seems to be asking PayPal to get involved.


I had to call MPL about the refund after it didn't show up on my statement. They took care of it while I was on the phone without issue. Consider calling them.


----------



## fredworld

DaGamePimp said:


> Sept. 3rd 2020.
> 
> - Jason


Had a "chat" session with Pureland, explained the issues. A nice lady called me and volunteered to measure the screws for me. She called back with measurements very close to what I reported earlier, so I went ahead and ordered. Pureland uses Fedex so I shouldn't have the long delays I got from the USPS service as I previously reported. Plus, Pureland is about a 1/2 hour from me, so delivery should be quite fast. I just got confirmation of shipping as I was typing this. I'll report back with installation results.

Edit: delivery expected Wed Jan 27


----------



## RRF

Medality said:


> That's weird. They claim to use the OEM bulb, just like Pureland. Maybe it was a bad unit?


It was exactly the same as the factory lamp...OEM packaging etc. But when fired up the "Epson" logo was barely visible.


----------



## Yves Claeys

I bought a lamp from MyProjectorLamps europe. First one made high pitch noises, returned & exchanged. Second one seems okay, but most times when I turn projector on it's fans go 100% for couple of minutes and after that time it turns on and seems okay... not sure if I should return that one also... But still no original available at Epson store or the store where I bought my projector so it'll have to do for now...


----------



## Luminated67

Yves Claeys said:


> I bought a lamp from MyProjectorLamps europe. First one made high pitch noises, returned & exchanged. Second one seems okay, but most times when I turn projector on it's fans go 100% for couple of minutes and after that time it turns on and seems okay... not sure if I should return that one also... But still no original available at Epson store or the store where I bought my projector so it'll have to do for now...


The high fan speed for a short period is perfectly normal.


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> This is a US based company but Projector Lamp Replacements | Original Projector Bulbs is an excellent resource for lamps.
> 
> - Jason


So these are an exact fit, and no issues with the screws, that some have issues with?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

biglen said:


> So these are an exact fit, and no issues with the screws, that some have issues with?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


No issues with the L89 lamp that I got from them, I guess it is always possible that the housings could change over time.

- Jason


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> No issues with the L89 lamp that I got from them, I guess it is always possible that the housings could change over time.
> 
> - Jason


Okay, thanks for the info. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

fredworld said:


> Had a "chat" session with Pureland, explained the issues. A nice lady called me and volunteered to measure the screws for me. She called back with measurements very close to what I reported earlier, so I went ahead and ordered. Pureland uses Fedex so I shouldn't have the long delays I got from the USPS service as I previously reported. Plus, Pureland is about a 1/2 hour from me, so delivery should be quite fast. I just got confirmation of shipping as I was typing this. I'll report back with installation results.
> 
> Edit: delivery expected Wed Jan 27


My very well packaged lamp from Pureland was delivered today. No Joy. The housing doesn't snap gently into the lamp compartment like the Epson does, and I didn't try to force it. After several attempts at swapping the Epson lamp and the (non-Epson) OEM lamp it was obvious that the OEM lamp is out of spec somewhere. I measured the width of the screws (which on this unit are black) and they seem to be about .7mm wider. I also measured part of the housing and the OEM looks to be about.4mm larger than its Epson counterpart. My digital caliper isn't the best but I was able to get consistently larger readings on the OEM lamp when re-measuring.


----------



## cleepa

I bought a refurb 5050ub about 2 months ago and just noticed a small artifact showing up. It's very small - about the size of a pea on a 130" Carl's FlexiWhite screen, just left of center.

I cleaned the front of the lens, so it seems like it must be something inside. Any idea if this is just dust, or something more serious?





  








IMG_0636[1].JPG




__
cleepa


__
Jan 27, 2021












  








IMG_0637[1].JPG




__
cleepa


__
Jan 27, 2021












  








IMG_0638[1].JPG




__
cleepa


__
Jan 27, 2021


----------



## DaGamePimp

fredworld said:


> My very well packaged lamp from Pureland was delivered today. No Joy. The housing doesn't snap gently into the lamp compartment like the Epson does, and I didn't try to force it. After several attempts at swapping the Epson lamp and the OEM lamp it was obvious that the OEM lamp is out of spec somewhere. I measured the width of the screws (which on this unit are black) and they seem to be about .7mm wider. I also measured part of the housing and the OEM looks to be about.4mm larger than its Epson counterpart. My digital caliper isn't the best but I was able to get consistently larger readings on the OEM lamp when re-measuring.


Well that's a bummer, my lamp from them worked great when I tested it. I just checked it and my mounting bolts are silver (not black).

It certainly sounds like something is going on with the aftermarket units (even if the bulb used is the same as the official Epson lamp... OSRAM).

- Jason


----------



## pwf6031

What brightness level do you guys run at normally? High or medium? Any idea on real world expected lamp life on both settings? Trusting the manual seems less intuitive than the actual folks here.


----------



## fredworld

M


pwf6031 said:


> What brightness level do you guys run at normally? High or medium? Any idea on real world expected lamp life on both settings? Trusting the manual seems less intuitive than the actual folks here.


Medium for me since I had a flickering issue develop after about a thousand hours on my first lamp, that Epson graciously replaced. Apparently, it's a known problem on Epsons according to an *earlier post.*


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Luminated67 said:


> I'm currently using a 112" 2.35:1 screen sitting 9ft away you will be only a little further away so should get a similar experience. It's good size to use the HDR filter modes CINEMA or DIGITAL CINEMA and still have a perfectly bright image. One thing I would say is unless you have black velvet absolutely covering everything your room isn't 'full light control' all you have is the ability to control the light entering the room but once the projector is turned on the light from the screen is bouncing off the walls/ceiling some of which is bouncing back at the screen affecting your image and ultimately your black levels.


Thanks for your response (as well as everyone elses). I've got a 5050UB sitting upstairs now and it'll be installed over the next few days. Purchased from crutchfield so i have 60 days to think about it. Went with a basic white screen for now since I do have full light control. Should have everything up and running this weekend and we'll see how it compares to my 77 oled (have another 1.5 weeks before i need to return it.).

I also think this is just something that I need to experience myself at home. Until I get it setup and get a feeling for how it looks and feels I just wont ever know so taking the plunge and giving it a shot I think is worthwhile...return it and picking up a 77 oled is always the backup option and something i already know i could be happy with.


----------



## RRF

pwf6031 said:


> What brightness level do you guys run at normally? High or medium? Any idea on real world expected lamp life on both settings? Trusting the manual seems less intuitive than the actual folks here.


For SDR I run in ECO/ Natural mode , and for 4K-HDR I run in Medium/Cinema mode.
As for flickering, I noticed some minor flickering for the first time the other night, with only 375 hours on the lamp. I applied the same trick I used for years on my Panasonic projector....that is to run it on Dynamic mode for 15-20 minutes, then switch back. It worked. 
The shortage of proper spare lamps is a real concern, however.


----------



## aRTee21

Tsunamijhoe said:


> FYI
> I just bought these https://www.hi-shock.de/en/bt/rf-pro-deep-heaven-fhd3drf and they are friggin AWESOME..
> I have both the Xpand and the Samsung cheapos,and both have severe ghosting if glasses brightness is more than low, and even then i see ghosting in some films and on some 3D planes, but these hi-shock have 0 ghosting even on high brightness.. The 3D looks so good..
> I had no idea there was this huge difference between 3D glasses,as i thought the technology standard was the same,but the expensive hi-shocks are definitly worth it if you like 3D..


Thanks for the tip, I got the Oxid Diamond glasses from them. First, as I mentioned, I was cheapskating because I didn't know if it would work well, nor whether my family would like it.
So I always had in mind to buy good glasses, but only after being sure about 3D.

Second, the Oxid Diamond are Dualview/Dualplay glasses, which may be the solution for my daughter, who had trouble seeing in 3D with the other, regular shutter glasses.
We'll see on the weekend.

Big disadvantage: the glasses charge from USB, but the mini-USB connector is absolutely non-standard.
I don't know why Chinese El Cheapo manage to just stick with standards, but expensive European (western) brands need to create this dependency. And why? For the extra sale of a stupid cable? Meanwhile, 4 El Cheapo glasses have bog standard micro-USB connectors and can be charged with any fitting cable, of which I now have 4 practical short ones (and still a bunch of old phone/replacement cables spread out over various drawers in the house).

Anyway, I have high hopes for the quality of these glasses, in any case the additional nose pads do give the idea of adjustable comfort, so there's that.
I'll report back on the cross-talk and image quality after trying them out later on.


----------



## Kieran

cleepa said:


> I bought a refurb 5050ub about 2 months ago and just noticed a small artifact showing up. It's very small - about the size of a pea on a 130" Carl's FlexiWhite screen, just left of center.
> 
> I cleaned the front of the lens, so it seems like it must be something inside. Any idea if this is just dust, or something more serious?


Those look like dust blobs to me, based on descriptions from others (I don't have a projector yet.)
Basically a dust particle got stuck somewhere in the internal light path of the projector. Only way to remove it would be to service and clean all optical elements which no one does AFAIK. Would need to be done in a clean room or you'd just introduce more dust.


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> Those look like dust blobs to me, based on descriptions from others (I don't have a projector yet.)
> Basically a dust particle got stuck somewhere in the internal light path of the projector. Only way to remove it would be to service and clean all optical elements which no one does AFAIK. Would need to be done in a clean room or you'd just introduce more dust.


It requires a return to Epson or an authorized repair shop to replace the optical engine. If it's not under warranty the estimate to do so is $1200.


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> It requires a return to Epson or an authorized repair shop to replace the optical engine. If it's not under warranty the estimate to do so is $1200.


For that price I'd sell the unit and wait for the next gen new product.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

aRTee21 said:


> Thanks for the tip, I got the Oxid Diamond glasses from them. First, as I mentioned, I was cheapskating because I didn't know if it would work well, nor whether my family would like it.
> So I always had in mind to buy good glasses, but only after being sure about 3D.
> 
> Second, the Oxid Diamond are Dualview/Dualplay glasses, which may be the solution for my daughter, who had trouble seeing in 3D with the other, regular shutter glasses.
> We'll see on the weekend.
> 
> Big disadvantage: the glasses charge from USB, but the mini-USB connector is absolutely non-standard.
> I don't know why Chinese El Cheapo manage to just stick with standards, but expensive European (western) brands need to create this dependency. And why? For the extra sale of a stupid cable? Meanwhile, 4 El Cheapo glasses have bog standard micro-USB connectors and can be charged with any fitting cable, of which I now have 4 practical short ones (and still a bunch of old phone/replacement cables spread out over various drawers in the house).
> 
> Anyway, I have high hopes for the quality of these glasses, in any case the additional nose pads do give the idea of adjustable comfort, so there's that.
> I'll report back on the cross-talk and image quality after trying them out later on.


Mine came with charge cables.. But yes, annoying they don't use standard usb connectors


----------



## Kieran

aRTee21 said:


> Thanks for the tip, I got the Oxid Diamond glasses from them. First, as I mentioned, I was cheapskating because I didn't know if it would work well, nor whether my family would like it.
> So I always had in mind to buy good glasses, but only after being sure about 3D.
> 
> Second, the Oxid Diamond are Dualview/Dualplay glasses, which may be the solution for my daughter, who had trouble seeing in 3D with the other, regular shutter glasses.
> We'll see on the weekend.
> 
> Big disadvantage: the glasses charge from USB, but the mini-USB connector is absolutely non-standard.
> I don't know why Chinese El Cheapo manage to just stick with standards, but expensive European (western) brands need to create this dependency. And why? For the extra sale of a stupid cable? Meanwhile, 4 El Cheapo glasses have bog standard micro-USB connectors and can be charged with any fitting cable, of which I now have 4 practical short ones (and still a bunch of old phone/replacement cables spread out over various drawers in the house).
> 
> Anyway, I have high hopes for the quality of these glasses, in any case the additional nose pads do give the idea of adjustable comfort, so there's that.
> I'll report back on the cross-talk and image quality after trying them out later on.


A "mini usb" is a standard plug. It's old, but it's standard and easily found. I still have several devices that charge from a mini-usb connector. micro-usb came next, then usb-c. So it's like 3 generations and about 15-20 years old.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Kieran said:


> A "mini usb" is a standard plug. It's old, but it's standard and easily found. I still have several devices that charge from a mini-usb connector. micro-usb came next, then usb-c. So it's like 3 generations and about 15-20 years old.


Hmmm, i couldn't find it on an official list, but it looks like a type 2.0a just in mini usb size, but it isn't. It definitely isn't standard or official usb as far as i can tell https://www.hi-shock.de/en/micro-usb-charging-cable

Here they write non standard cable in the description Hi-SHOCK® micro USB charging cable | for all rechargeable Hi-SHOCK 3D glasses- Buy Online in Albania at albania.desertcart.com. ProductId : 48206248.


----------



## Musty Hustla

aRTee21 said:


> First bummer: I downloaded the calibration files (from this forum) to calibrate my setup.


Where are these calibration files?


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> For that price I'd sell the unit and wait for the next gen new product.


Certainly, that's an alternative. I was given the information by Epson as the quickest and most cost effective resolution. Otherwise, the unit must be sent "overseas" to have the optical engine rebuilt. 
Dust blobs are a known design risk. The lens elements are only semi-sealed due to the nature of the LCD panels that need air circulation, as opposed to other designs that are sealed.


----------



## RRF

fredworld said:


> I had to call MPL about the refund after it didn't show up on my statement. They took care of it while I was on the phone without issue. Consider calling them.


Well I got my refund in only a few minutes after calling MyProjectorLamps. 

I also emailed them about the incompatibility issue with these lamps from multiple vendors, and pointed them to this thread. They replied that they would look into it. Did not sound like they were aware of the problem.

The lamp I received..._that fit but had low power_...was in an Epson labelled box, but it did not say "Spare Lamp" like the one in the photos.


----------



## fredworld

RRF said:


> Well I got my refund in only a few minutes after calling MyProjectorLamps.
> 
> I also emailed them about the incompatibility issue with these lamps from multiple vendors, and pointed them to this thread. They replied that they would look into it. Did not sound like they were aware of the problem.
> 
> The lamp I received..._that fit but had low power_...was in an Epson labelled box, but it did not say "Spare Lamp" like the one in the photos.


Hmmmm.... After I had to return the second lamp from them MPL told me weeks ago that they were going to look into the issue and pull the lamp from the website.


----------



## aRTee21

Musty Hustla said:


> Where are these calibration files?


I meant the disc and such mentioned here:
AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration

Please let me know how you get on with the color brightness and contrast settings on the greens.


----------



## aRTee21

carmona said:


> Barring any consideration of cost, what are the absolute best 3d glasses to pair with the Epson 6050 projector. Thanks!


The best I have are the aforementioned Hi-Shock glasses. I paid 57CHF, about 63USD.
The model I got (Oxid Diamond) has the option DualView/DualPlay, setting the shutter-LCD to work in regular mode, or both sides open for just the left or right image.
For my daughter who had trouble with 3D depth perception through glasses (she's grand at archery, there's nothing wrong with her eyesight, she can also see stereograms by crossing the eyes and such, but it must be something in her optical processing in the brain), this pair of glasses is the solution.

As I mentioned, they do have a non-standard tiny USB connector, looks like the type that I have come across on Panasonic waterproof rugged cameras.

They are the most comfortable and have the best optical performance.
If anyone cares, I can post some pics of the cross-talk, haven't put them on the computer yet.
They have 3 extra nose bridge parts, but I have trouble to imagine what kind of face one needs for the extra ones to fit... The preinstalled one is fine.


Second best, from AliExpress, a set with a big brand label on the side "Hindo", at under 18CHF (20USD). They have just as low cross-talk as the Hi-Shock glasses when looking straight, but when under a sideways and/or downward angle (slumping on the couch), the cross-talk deteriorates more.
Straight-forward / sitting normally (which is better with 3d anyway) the view is equal to that of the Hi-Shock ones at less than 1/3th of the price.

Standard micro-USB, 20cm cable. No special case, and the product packaging box is not so practical to use for stowing due to the opening being on the side, so the glasses have to be slid in sideways. They are quite comfortable on the nose, but no extra bridge parts.
I will likely get more of these.

Third best, wouldn't buy now that I know what else is around, but they work well enough, same price as the Hindo ones, worse cross-talk, very good, solid box which can be practically used for storage (lid plus bottom as most mobiles are now packaged, or as shoe boxes used to be).
Standard micro-USB plus short cable. Not so comfy on the nose.

Fourth type, wouldn't buy nor recommend, cross talk as third best, but just plastic on the nose, below 15CHF, quite light but they leave me with a mark on my nose after prolonged (more than 5 minutes) use. Cheapest I found on AliExpress that I estimated to be from a shop that would actually send something useful. The box they came in isn't usable but they came with an extra glasses case. Still, won't buy again.


[Edit] Regarding coloring of the image and the transparency, all glasses have more or less the same performance.
Note that 3D shutter glasses are polarized and thus let through only 50% of the light; glasses with good cross-talk probably have a lower duty cycle, thus are transparent even less than 50% of the time. This means that you end up with less than 25% of the light. For that reason I go from Eco to High on light power when watching 3D movies, if the movie sound will outdo the fan of the 6050ub at High. If not, the bare minimum is Medium.


----------



## pwf6031

So what’s the deal with replacement lamps? Do the epson ones not work well, or are they too expensive or hard to find? If one wanted an extra to be safe, where and what is best - price no issue? Set up my 5050 a few days ago, absolutely love it. Contrast is wonderful.


----------



## Medality

pwf6031 said:


> So what’s the deal with replacement lamps? Do the epson ones not work well, or are they too expensive or hard to find? If one wanted an extra to be safe, where and what is best - price no issue? Set up my 5050 a few days ago, absolutely love it. Contrast is wonderful.


Mine will (at last!) be shipped today! I'm wondering that also. Would be nice to have a spare lamp before actually needing one. From what I see however, is that we should wait for this crisis to end so Epson can keep up with the demand. I don't want to buy a lamp now and discover too late that it doesn't fit.


----------



## Musty Hustla

I assume the lamps don’t go bad while unused.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

So, i wrote Epson asking why original lamps are impossible to get worldwide, and why they force people to use oem/aftermarket lamps. 
The genius answer from the e-service customer rep is as follows :

Why Epson choose not to manufacture and sell lamps anymore.... There is no answer.. 

That's it...

The 2 original lamps i ordered from my projector dealer says delivery time 15-25 working days, it has been a week, and no answer as to when they might get a shipment. 

This is my first and last ever epson product..


----------



## Kieran

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Why Epson choose not to manufacture and sell lamps anymore.... There is no answer..


Wait, so Epson has _stopped_ manufacturing and selling the lamps for these projectors? If this is true I think I'll cancel my order and switch to a laser unit like the new LG.... 
I can't justify $3000 for a display that last only 3 years.


----------



## DaGamePimp

I just re-checked my L89 lamp from Pureland Supply and it no longer fits properly. It's not the screws, I can completely remove them and it no longer slides in properly (it's crooked).

I called Pureland Supply and they tried to tell me that it was the screws and that backing them out would solve the issue (they claim to have been aware of this for months, since before I ordered my lamp in Sept.2020). I informed them that I understood that and even removed the screws yet it still does not fit.

This has me wondering if there is some sort of heat related issue happening over time regarding the lamp chamber materials (and/or the lamps themselves).

Allow me to apologize for suggesting them as a vendor for the L89 lamps, I had no idea the lamp would no longer fit until today.

I was told they would send me an RMA via email but it has not shown up as of yet... 

- Jason


----------



## fredworld

pwf6031 said:


> So what’s the deal with replacement lamps? Do the epson ones not work well, or are they too expensive or hard to find? If one wanted an extra to be safe, where and what is best - price no issue? Set up my 5050 a few days ago, absolutely love it. Contrast is wonderful.


My best answers to your questions in the order asked:
Unreliable stock at present.
The lamps from "Epson" work well.
"Too Expensive" is relative, so YMMV.
Yes, definitely hard to find.
Buy direct from Epson or authorized dealer... when they get stock.

My last email exchange with Epson indicated they intend to restock.

Fwiw, the three vendors I dealt with, for the four lamps I tried, were all customer friendly, very courteous and understanding of my issues. Some patience, and maybe gentle prompting, is necessary for refunds.
I hope this helps.


----------



## Kieran

So if price is not an object and one just wants the best bulb/lamp for this projector, what's the best source, and is there confidence that there will be bulbs available for several years to come?


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Kieran said:


> Wait, so Epson has _stopped_ manufacturing and selling the lamps for these projectors? If this is true I think I'll cancel my order and switch to a laser unit like the new LG....
> I can't justify $3000 for a display that last only 3 years.


I am not sure.. Like i wrote,the answer to my questions was a non-answer. But it doesnt exactly inspire confidence in their products.. I were also looking at a laser but as i wanted 3D they are a no go,despite what Optoma says in their marketing,it doesnt work in their laser projectors..
Also, i could not get an answer regarding light engine once you reach the limit if it can be exchanged or replaced.. I use projector as my only screen,so it runs a lot of hours every day, and i would reach EOL on laser before EOL on projector, unless they expect people to buy new every 3-5 years anyways.. I tend to use my electronics until they are worn out or has become completely obsolete.


----------



## Medality

Kieran said:


> So if price is not an object and one just wants the best bulb/lamp for this projector, what's the best source, and is there confidence that there will be bulbs available for several years to come?


Right now the best source is Epson or an authorized dealer, but Epson is currently out of stock. I don't think they'll stop the production for the 5050UB bulbs, as those are used in other projectors like the 6050UB, 5040UB/6040UB, 4000, and 4010/4050.


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## rekbones

[QUOTE="Musty Hustla, post: 60457938, member: 7504261"
I assume the lamps don’t go bad while unused.
[/QUOTE]
No but the warranty does, as it might be defective also. Best practice is to always when buying a spare lamp for backup install it immediately and keep the original as a spare.


----------



## Kieran

rekbones said:


> Musty Hustla said:
> 
> 
> 
> I assume the lamps don’t go bad while unused.
> 
> 
> 
> No but the warranty does, as it might be defective also. Best practice is to always when buying a spare lamp for backup install it immediately and keep the original as a spare.
Click to expand...

I think the idea here was to buy up a couple of replacement lamps to hedge against the possibility of Epson stopping production.


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## mtviewuser

Sign up for product availability notification. I dont think they are stopping manufacturing as much availability is very limited. You may be able to get one in a few months. Just buy a back up when it comes on sale. COVID has affected supply every where, spare parts for auto, PC are heavily constrained


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## Kieran

mtviewuser said:


> Sign up for product availability notification. I dont think they are stopping manufacturing as much availability is very limited. You may be able to get one in a few months. Just buy a back up when it comes on sale. COVID has affected supply every where, spare parts for auto, PC are heavily constrained


Howdy, neighbor! (assuming you're in mt.view CA)
I actually couldn't find the link to replacment lamps for the 5050ub on the epson.com site. 
Would someone please paste a link or directions on finding these things?
Thanks!


----------



## fredworld

mtviewuser said:


> Sign up for product availability notification. I dont think they are stopping manufacturing as much availability is very limited. You may be able to get one in a few months. Just buy a back up when it comes on sale. COVID has affected supply every where, spare parts for auto, PC are heavily constrained


Frankly, I'm beginning to think that it's not entirely a COVID issue. There are plenty of (non-Epson) OEM replacement lamps in stock. The last vendor I purchased from, although defective, had 54 in stock. As to why Epson has been out of stock for so long, it makes me wonder that maybe they are aware of the issues we've encountered and possibly have been rejecting their supply for obvious reasons. I know this occurs in other industries with the more conscientious companies, particularly, in amateur astronomy products where overseas manufacturing is prevalent. It's not unusual for product to become scarce when attention to quality control becomes lax or supervision breaks down. I've been told by one vendor that unless they visit the manufacturing site monthly the rejection rate increases. With the reduction in air travel perhaps this is the case. Meantime, I'm going to be patient. There's less than 1200 hours on my lamp, so I'm putting my money on Epson to get an acceptable product before I hit 3000 hours when I would seriously look to replace the lamp.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> Frankly, I'm beginning to think that it's not entirely a COVID issue. There are plenty of OEM replacement lamps in stock. The last vendor I purchased from, although defective, had 54 in stock. As to why Epson has been out of stock for so long, it makes me wonder that maybe they are aware of the issues we've encountered and possibly have been rejecting their supply for obvious reasons. I know this occurs in other industries with the more conscientious companies, particularly, in amateur astronomy products where overseas manufacturing is prevalent. It's not unusual for product to become scarce when attention to quality control becomes lax or supervision breaks down. I've been told by one vendor that unless they visit the manufacturing site monthly the rejection rate increases. With the reduction in air travel perhaps this is the case. Meantime, I'm going to be patient. There's less than 1200 hours on my lamp, so I'm putting my money on Epson to get an acceptable product before I hit 3000 hours when I would seriously look to replace the lamp.


Wow, 3000hrs? Mine still has the one that was in it when i bought it,and it has 1165hrs now, i will be exchanging at 2000hrs which is around the time my old Sony was more or less unwatchable as the light output had more than halfed. I am really happy with this projector and i will be really excited if it retains a high light output past 2000hrs. I had Sony lamps that only lasted 800hrs before they had to be changed,and even though SOny advertised like 6000hrs economy,i was NEVER past 2100hrs before either blinking or low light forced me to change lamps.. 

Now, that leaves me approximatly 800hrs give or take,which is about 100 days more or less.. So i hope Epson can deliver my 2 new original lamps before that.. I am not buying another oem before i can be certain they are up to spec..

Sometimes i really miss the days of CRT and tubes.. My old Sim2 SVD 500+ had 12000hrs on the tubes when the projector got recycled,and it still looked good with a DVDo Iscan Pro.. It was too expensive to exchange the tubes,and it was impossible to sell the behemoth as i upgraded to an Optoma DLP projector,which i might add cost only 10% of the Sim2,and had full hd,which the CRT didnt,and at the time you couldnt buy add-on electronics to upgrade it,at least not where im from,so a perfectly working awesome CRT got thrown in the recycling bin... I still remember the dudes working there gaping when i hauled this monster out of the car and put it in the bin.. Ahh,the good old days :-D


----------



## RRF

fredworld said:


> Hmmmm.... After I had to return the second lamp from them MPL told me weeks ago that they were going to look into the issue and pull the lamp from the website.


It's probably because I dealt with their Canadian site...although the lamp was shipped from Miami.


----------



## pwf6031

I have to say, I really love this projector. My only real wish is it was laser and 8m projected pixels (though, honestly, I can barely tell vs 4m since the lens is pretty good). I can’t wait to see where Epson takes this line.

What’s the next reasonable step up that is laser based? Anything? The hu810p looks like it’s on the same playing field or slightly worse.


----------



## jpbonadio

I wish all this lamp crisis was a sign that Epson is close to release a new laser version, so they are slowing down lamps production. But most probably they are just having trouble with management.


----------



## rekbones

pwf6031 said:


> I have to say, I really love this projector. My only real wish is it was laser and 8m projected pixels (though, honestly, I can barely tell vs 4m since the lens is pretty good). I can’t wait to see where Epson takes this line.
> 
> What’s the next reasonable step up that is laser based? Anything? The hu810p looks like it’s on the same playing field or slightly worse.


They just released the LS500 a UST with laser but it is a $1k premium over the 5050ub and it still doesn't even have the UB panels. If they want to keep it under $3K I think the best hope is Dynamic HDR Tone mapping for their next upgrade.


----------



## pwf6031

UST doesn’t at all tempt me for my room layout and automated, non tab-tensioned screen. I would love a 5050ub with dynamic HDR....


----------



## mon2479

This lamp issue from epson is


jpbonadio said:


> I wish all this lamp crisis was a sign that Epson is close to release a new laser version, so they are slowing down lamps production. But most probably they are just having trouble with management.


OH HELL NO!!!!!! I just bought mine last year, they better get their stuff together soon. When it comes time for me needing a new lamp, I just may have to order a new PJ and swap out lamps. I'll make sure mine is at around 1000hrs or so before I do such a thing, then return the new PJ with my old bulb. If new bulbs can be made for the new PJs, they can make em for us as well. We paid good money for their product to leave us high and dry.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

mon2479 said:


> This lamp issue from epson is
> 
> OH HELL NO!!!!!! I just bought mine last year, they better get their stuff together soon. When it comes time for me needing a new lamp, I just may have to order a new PJ and swap out lamps. I'll make sure mine is at around 1000hrs or so before I do such a thing, then return the new PJ with my old bulb. If new bulbs can be made for the new PJs, they can make em for us as well. We paid good money for their product to leave us high and dry.


Amen brother.. I wish Epson would make a statement as to why the lamps are so scarce.. Its just bad business what they are doing now, wether or not they are complicit in the problem.


----------



## DavidK442

The world has been turned on its head for an entire year and we're all contriving some Epson conspiracy to keep projector lamps from the people. Really?


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

DavidK442 said:


> The world has been turned on its head for an entire year and we're all contriving some Epson conspiracy to keep projector lamps from the people. Really?


Well, there is no shortage of oem lamps. Nor new projectors. And Epson refuse to answer a simple question. That does not mean conspiracy, but it does mean Epson seem to not care about their customers..

Its just good business to inform their retailers and customers about potential delivery problems.
A simple note on their website would be all that is needed.


----------



## Medality

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Well, there is no shortage of oem lamps. *Nor new projectors.* And Epson refuse to answer a simple question. That does not mean conspiracy, but it does mean Epson seem to not care about their customers..


There sure is. I ordered 6 weeks ago. They just received stock.


----------



## kdog750

I think there is a supply issue with the projectors as well. I've already gotten my new Denon, SVS 3000, and atmos speakers in from Mike Garret but they are out of stock of the 6050ub. I called a dealer in Dallas as a back up just in case Mike cant come through and that dealer said no one in the country has any. Epson isn't sending them out right now.


----------



## Han Wedge

Hi guys.

I need a new projector and Epson 60/5050UB are on my short list. I'd have 2 questions.

- Is there a true difference between the 6050 and the 5050 regarding contrast and black level?

- Sitting at 10-11' from a 135'' screen do you think I would notice any screen door effect?


----------



## kdog750

Han Wedge said:


> Hi guys.
> 
> I need a new projector and Epson 60/5050UB are on my short list. I'd have 2 questions.
> 
> - Is there a true difference between the 6050 and the 5050 regarding contrast and black level?
> 
> - Sitting at 10-11' from a 135'' screen do you think I would notice any screen door effect?


My understanding is the 6050 is basically the 5050 but it's black, comes with an extra bulb, and a longer warranty. It has a contrast of 1.3 million to 1 vs 1 million, but from everything I've read you can't tell the difference.


----------



## nogud

I recently got this projector (actually, a TW9400 as I'm in Europe).

To test the image, specifically to see if I'm getting 4k, I've tried videos like this one (either directly from youtube, or playing the same file in Kodi). In both cases, I'm not able to see the distinct horizontal lines. Shouldn't I be able to?

I'm playing this from a Nvidia Shield, connected directly to the projector or through a AVR-X3700H.
The same setup connected to a 4k tv gets me the distinct lines.


----------



## Kieran

nogud said:


> I recently got this projector (actually, a TW9400 as I'm in Europe).
> 
> To test the image, specifically to see if I'm getting 4k, I've tried videos like this one (either directly from youtube, or playing the same file in Kodi). In both cases, I'm not able to see the distinct horizontal lines. Shouldn't I be able to?
> 
> I'm playing this from a Nvidia Shield, connected directly to the projector or through a AVR-X3700H.
> The same setup connected to a 4k tv gets me the distinct lines.


Definitely not. I mean, we would hope to, but Any 4k image you watch through this projector has been scaled/modified in some way. The projector uses native 1080p LCD panels. It can accept the full bandwidth 18gpbs of 4k HDR, but it processes the image to acheive "4k-like" image quality projected to the screen. But it's not 4k. It's actually 1080p shifted twice per frame which gives (if I recall correctly) something like 2160 x 1920, or maybe it's 1080p x 3840 (this would explain why you can't see the distinct horizontal lines, but can presumably see the distinct vertical lines.)

I may have those numbers wrong, but the idea is correct in that it's basically pseudo 4k. That said, Epson has one of the best/highest quality lenses in this space, and does a better job than anyone out there with processing 4k to fit their shifted LCD technology, and nearly every single review out there says they can't see a difference from a reasonable viewing distance between the Epson's image and any 4x shifting DLP 4k projector. To get true native 4k resolution, you need to nearly double the price of the projector to get something like a JVC NX5.

Many choose the Epson because the color is on par with $5k-$6k projectors, it's black level exceeds most projectors on the market up to 2x the price, the resolution difference isn't very noticeable, it's brighter than most/all of the native 4k projectors in the $5-6k range, and it costs less than $3k USD.


----------



## nogud

Kieran said:


> Deginitely not. I mean, we would hope to, but Any 4k image you watch through this projector has been scaled/modified in some way. The projector uses native 1080p LCD panels. It can accept the full bandwidth 18gpbs of 4k HDR, but it processes the image to acheive "4k-like" image quality projected to the screen. But it's not 4k. It's actually 1080p shifted twice per frame which gives (if I recall correctly) something like 2160 x 1920, or maybe it's 1080p x 3840 (this would explain why you can't see the distinct horizontal lines, but can presumably see the distinct vertical lines.)


My bad, I should have said I can't see distinct lines, not just the horizontal.
To be clear, I can't see distinct lines, either vertical or horizontal.

I know the projector is not a true 4k, but don't know what the effect of that will be in a test such as this. I would totally understand if it was something the projector isn't able to pull off. But I just want to check if I might have done something wrong setting up.

I wonder if anyone has tried something like this video, or wishes to try with the link I provided, and tell me their results?


----------



## Kieran

nogud said:


> My bad, I should have said I can't see distinct lines, not just the horizontal.
> To be clear, I can't see distinct lines, either vertical or horizontal.
> 
> I know the projector is not a true 4k, but don't know what the effect of that will be in a test such as this. I would totally understand if it was something the projector isn't able to pull off. But I just want to check if I might have done something wrong setting up.
> 
> I wonder if anyone has tried something like this video, or wishes to try with the link I provided, and tell me their results?


I'm fairly sure that no one will be able to see the distinct lines in that test with an epson 5050ub or 6050ub projector. I'm also fairly certain that no one would be able to see them with a 4k DLP 4x-shifting projector either. Neither of these technologies is true 4k. The DLP version actually puts a full 2160x3840 pixels on the screen, but they are large 1080p-sized pixels, so they overlap and you lose effective resolution and ability to distinguish details that are a single 4k-sized pixel in width.
In order to see these lines, you need a true-4k projector with a native 4k chip and a good lens (which like I said would be roughly 2x the price of this projector) or a 4k direct view panel like an OLED, which you already confirmed you've seen.


----------



## fredworld

I thought it was a good thing not to see lines.
Screen door effect (SDE), that's different, which are visible when sitting too close. In my case I have to be about a foot from the , maybe less.


----------



## Luminated67

Han Wedge said:


> Hi guys.
> 
> I need a new projector and Epson 60/5050UB are on my short list. I'd have 2 questions.
> 
> - Is there a true difference between the 6050 and the 5050 regarding contrast and black level?
> 
> - Sitting at 10-11' from a 135'' screen do you think I would notice any screen door effect?


Absolutely not, I did a video where I start at 4 foot from my 100” screen and move to approximately 3 inches, even at only 4 foot away you can’t see SDE so from 10-11ft you definitely won’t see it.


----------



## Han Wedge

Luminated67 said:


> Absolutely not, I did a video where I start at 4 foot from my 100” screen and move to approximately 3 inches, even at only 4 foot away you can’t see SDE so from 10-11ft you definitely won’t see it.


Thanks, very appreciated! Very good news because I have watched a TVSpro video on youtube and in the comment section they say you may able to see SDE if you sit closer than 10-12 ft...


----------



## Kieran

Let's clarify the difference between SDE and resolved detail. Ideally, you have pixels with no space between them. This is difficult if not impossible to technically acheive. If you could have this, it would be nearly impossible to distinguish individual pixels in a uniform (e.g. all one color) field. With most displays, you can distinguish individual pixels when you get close enough. This is the Screen Door Effect. It has very little to nothing to do with resolution of the display.

With a full resolution test, you want to be able to distinguish alternating black and white lines that are exactly one pixel wide. This is desirable; it means that your display can render the resolution its supposed to be capable of showing. Back in the CRT days, many early HD displays could accept, process and attempt to display a 1080i or 720p image, but the electronics couldn't quite really handle frequencies that high, and resolution tests like this would show this.

A little bit of SDE helps pass the full resolution test, since all pixels bloom a little. This was especially true back in the CRT days, less true with plasma displays, and even less true with LCD and DLP displays. 

Projection displays depend on having a good lens and correct focus to pass this test. If there's a lot of SDE (small pixels with relatively large gaps between them) some people have de-focused just a touch to minimize it.


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Well, there is no shortage of oem lamps. Nor new projectors. And Epson refuse to answer a simple question. That does not mean conspiracy, but it does mean Epson seem to not care about their customers..
> 
> Its just good business to inform their retailers and customers about potential delivery problems.
> A simple note on their website would be all that is needed.


Here's the next chapter in the lamp saga. This morning I called Epson to order a lamp for my 5050UB. A nice rep told me they were out of sock and referred me to place an order with *Compass Micro*. Their site says the lamp is on backorder but restocking is expected by the end of February 2021 and that orders can be placed and will ship when available. I was about to do that until I read their *Return Policy*. A 30 day return policy and a 20% restocking fee convinced me to wait to see what happens by the beginning of March with Epson having stock from which to order.


----------



## biglen

So is it official, that there are no lamps other than OEM Epson, that are a perfect fit?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> So is it official, that there are no lamps other than OEM Epson, that are a perfect fit?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I'm putting my money on Epson. Their customer service when addressing my issues during setup, troubleshooting my connection problems (even to the point where I got a phone call about the disc players they used to try to duplicate my issues); providing advice on my original flickering lamp after 1000 hours use and eventually replacing it, answering questions about firmware and generally their relatively prompt replies to my messages, I think, speaks to their concern at least about _MY_ issues. So, I can be patient.


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> I'm putting my money on Epson. Their customer service when addressing my issues during setup, troubleshooting my connection problems (even to the point where I got a phone call about the disc players they used to try to duplicate my issues); providing advice on my original flickering lamp after 1000 hours use and eventually replacing it, answering questions about firmware and generally their relatively prompt replies to my messages, I think, speaks to their concern at least about _MY_ issues. So, I can be patient.


That's really good to hear, Fred, and gives me a bit of confidence despite the lamp delays. I'm anxiously awaiting news on your lamp progress. I seriously can't swallow taking delivery of this $3000 projector if it has no future beyond its first lamp. Problem for me is, there's virtually no other pj in this price range that will work for me (due to needing a lot of vertical lens shift).


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> I'm putting my money on Epson. Their customer service when addressing my issues during setup, troubleshooting my connection problems (even to the point where I got a phone call about the disc players they used to try to duplicate my issues); providing advice on my original flickering lamp after 1000 hours use and eventually replacing it, answering questions about firmware and generally their relatively prompt replies to my messages, I think, speaks to their concern at least about _MY_ issues. So, I can be patient.


Does Epson let you sign up for alerts when they are back in stock?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Does Epson let you sign up for alerts when they are back in stock?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


No, unfortunately. I asked about that a few weeks ago and I was told they expect to restock, eventually.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> No, unfortunately. I asked about that a few weeks ago and I was told they expect to restock, eventually.


Okay, thanks. I'm getting close to 1000 hours, so I want a backup. I run on high lamp a lot, for HDR. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## kdog750

Kieran said:


> That's really good to hear, Fred, and gives me a bit of confidence despite the lamp delays. I'm anxiously awaiting news on your lamp progress. I seriously can't swallow taking delivery of this $3000 projector if it has no future beyond its first lamp. Problem for me is, there's virtually no other pj in this price range that will work for me (due to needing a lot of vertical lens shift).


Epson would really be shooting themselves in the foot by discontinuing the lamps. It would seriously hurt future sales as no one would want to end up with one of their projectors anymore.


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> That's really good to hear, Fred, and gives me a bit of confidence despite the lamp delays. I'm anxiously awaiting news on your lamp progress. I seriously can't swallow taking delivery of this $3000 projector if it has no future beyond its first lamp. Problem for me is, there's virtually no other pj in this price range that will work for me (due to needing a lot of vertical lens shift).


Thanks. If anyone were to ask my advice about buying either a 5050 or 6050, I would recommend the 6050 despite the $1000-$1200 premium entirely because the 6050 comes with a spare lamp (its black case, included mount, slightly higher contrast ratio and rear cover are nice, too). I think I saw posts somewhere that buyers were able to get a reduced price if they didn't need the included mount, but I don't recall where I saw that.

Aside from the lack of stock for a proper lamp (that I believe will resolve), my only criticisms about the 5050/6050 models are their proclivity for dust blobs (which is entirely dependent on luck and, to my understanding, due to the semi-sealed design of the LCD panels that require air flow for temperature control) and judder (the severity for which is dependent on source material and viewer tolerance). Other than that at their price point, the 5050/6050 as a 4K e-shift projector has features that can't be found in other projectors except at much higher prices. Life is full of compromises.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> Thanks. If anyone were to ask my advice about buying either a 5050 or 6050, I would recommend the 6050 despite the $1000-$1200 premium entirely because the 6050 comes with a spare lamp (its black case, included mount, slightly higher contrast ratio and rear cover are nice, too). I think I saw posts somewhere that buyers were able to get a reduced price if they didn't need the included mount, but I don't recall where I saw that.
> 
> Aside from the lack of stock for a proper lamp (that I believe will resolve), my only criticisms about the 5050/6050 models are their proclivity for dust blobs (which is entirely dependent on luck and, to my understanding, due to the semi-sealed design of the LCD panels that require air flow for temperature control) and judder (the severity for which is dependent on source material and viewer tolerance). Other than that, the 5050/6050's price point for a 4K e-shift projector has features that can't be found in other projectors except at much higher prices. Life is full of compromises.


Only in America.. The equivalent in EU do not come with an extra lamp nor mount. Like always EU consumers get screwed.


----------



## pwf6031

How best to protect against dust blobs?


----------



## Luminated67

fredworld said:


> Thanks. If anyone were to ask my advice about buying either a 5050 or 6050, I would recommend the 6050 despite the $1000-$1200 premium entirely because the 6050 comes with a spare lamp (its black case, included mount, slightly higher contrast ratio and *rear cover* are nice, too). I think I saw posts somewhere that buyers were able to get a reduced price if they didn't need the included mount, but I don't recall where I saw that.
> 
> Aside from the lack of stock for a proper lamp (that I believe will resolve), my only criticisms about the 5050/6050 models are their proclivity for dust blobs (which is entirely dependent on luck and, to my understanding, due to the semi-sealed design of the LCD panels that require air flow for temperature control) and judder (the severity for which is dependent on source material and viewer tolerance). Other than that at their price point, the 5050/6050 as a 4K e-shift projector has features that can't be found in other projectors except at much higher prices. Life is full of compromises.


I must have miss heard this here, rear cover?

The rear cover is only for the WiFi version but it only has a cut out for the power lead and not for any of the HDMI cables.


----------



## Luminated67

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Only in America.. The equivalent in EU do not come with an extra lamp nor mount. Like always EU consumers get screwed.


You might think so but our version is cheaper and comes with a 5yr warranty which in my opinion is better value than a bulb or mount.

Oh and don’t forget it’s cheaper.


----------



## platinum00

Have you guys tried the listed US Distributers on Epsons site? Specifically Encompass below says they have them in stock. Compass Micro indicates late Feb restock. I didn't check the others. 

Compass Micro, Inc. (800) 388-8595
Encompass Parts Distribution (800) 432-8542
Micrologic Systems, Inc. (903) 561-0007
TSAworld, Inc. (800) 633-6626


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Luminated67 said:


> You might think so but our version is cheaper and comes with a 5yr warranty which in my opinion is better value than a bulb or mount.
> 
> Oh and don’t forget it’s cheaper.


There is no 5 year warranty in my country.. Datasheet states 36 months only if you purchase the extended warranty.. Seems this also apply to Germany.


----------



## DaGamePimp

platinum00 said:


> Have you guys tried the listed US Distributers on Epsons site? Specifically Encompass below says they have them in stock. Compass Micro indicates late Feb restock. I didn't check the others.
> 
> Compass Micro, Inc. (800) 388-8595
> Encompass Parts Distribution (800) 432-8542
> Micrologic Systems, Inc. (903) 561-0007
> TSAworld, Inc. (800) 633-6626








1769168 Epson Lamp Assy;h710;ph;as







encompass.com





Claims it's an Epson part...  

- Jason


----------



## Luminated67

Tsunamijhoe said:


> There is no 5 year warranty in my country.. Datasheet states 36 months only if you purchase the extended warranty.. Seems this also apply to Germany.


Then it seems the UK main dealers were able to get special treatment from Epson.


----------



## fredworld

DaGamePimp said:


> 1769168 Epson Lamp Assy;h710;ph;as
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> encompass.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Claims it's an Epson part...
> 
> - Jason


Based on price and verbiage you can rely on it being an non-Epson OEM lamp. I wouldn't order one based on my experience with three other vendors and four lamps. YMMV.


----------



## fredworld

Has anyone ever just replaced the "bulb" inside the original Epson lamp housing? How much of a chore is it?


----------



## ShadowBoy

fredworld said:


> Based on price and verbiage you can rely on it being an OEM lamp. I wouldn't order one based on my experience with three other vendors and four lamps. YMMV.


fredworld, when you say you "wouldn't order one based on my experience with three other vendors and four lamps.", even though it is Epson OEM, is that because you feel the price is too high or that you doubt the reliability of actually receiving your purchase from a company other than Epson? 
I have purchased two OEM Epson lamps over the years and two Epson compatible non-OEM lamps. In each case the OEM lamps lasted about twice as long as the non-OEM ones. After the second non-Epson lamp I decided that the savings of a cheaper lamp just wasn't worth it. Now I stick to Epson lamps only. I haven't tried replacing only the bulb, but some people on this forum say they have successfully done it. Can't be that hard I'd imagine. Just a matter of finding if Epson sells the bulbs only, otherwise you'd have to replace it with a non-OEM bulb.
I haven't even set up my Epson 6050 projector yet as I STILL haven't finished my cinema renovation, and the projector has been sitting here for nearly two years. But this news of a bulb shortage is disturbing. If Epson truly is phasing out bulb production to encourage us to move to laser, I guess I'll have to use non-OEM bulbs until I upgrade my projector. However, considering this 6050 is the only upgrade since I purchased my first projector (Epson EH-TW2000) in 2006, and I'm 65 years old, I'll probably be dead before I ever upgrade again. Unless I win the lottery.


----------



## mtviewuser

Bulbs for other models have been in stock. People are reading too much into shortages, remember COVID has affected manufacturing heavily across the world. Epson makes 8 different projectors all with bulbs in them. I dont think epson is completely giving up on bulbs. Just be patient and decide after vaccination.


----------



## fredworld

ShadowBoy said:


> fredworld, when you say you "wouldn't order one based on my experience with three other vendors and four lamps.", even though it is Epson OEM, is that because you feel the price is too high or that you doubt the reliability of actually receiving your purchase from a company other than Epson?....


Not trying to be curt, and my apologies if I appear so, but my experiences purchasing lamps is well documented in this thread. Search my posts for the reasons why I stated as I did and what my plans are for lamp replacement.


----------



## aRTee21

Luminated67 said:


> Then it seems the UK main dealers were able to get special treatment from Epson.


I got my TW9400 with 2 years warranty plus pickup and return included, then bought the extra package for about 300USD (CHF, really - I'm not in the EU but smack in the middle of Europe) for the extension to 6 years total warranty including pickup and return.
I'm not quite sure how they'll deal with things in case it's a new lamp that's needed when those are no longer available.
Total price: 3k USD (2719 CHF)

As others have said, in Europe (not just the EU) the TW9400 seems to come just as naked as the 7400 (5050ub equivalent), for about 20% higher price.
For the 1.200.000:1 contrast ratio instead of 1.000.000:1 everyone has to decide for themselves if that is worth the price hike. For me, 20% better contrast for 20% better price is the right deal.

Also, I'm at a point in life where a) I rarely regret spending too much for something deemed useful or necessary, but more often regret spending less but getting less, and b) I can afford things I couldn't before.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

aRTee21 said:


> I got my TW9400 with 2 years warranty plus pickup and return included, then bought the extra package for about 300USD (CHF, really - I'm not in the EU but smack in the middle of Europe) for the extension to 6 years total warranty including pickup and return.
> I'm not quite sure how they'll deal with things in case it's a new lamp that's needed when those are no longer available.
> Total price: 3k USD (2719 CHF)
> 
> As others have said, in Europe (not just the EU) the TW9400 seems to come just as naked as the 7400 (5050ub equivalent), for about 20% higher price.
> For the 1.200.000:1 contrast ratio instead of 1.000.000:1 everyone has to decide for themselves if that is worth the price hike. For me, 20% better contrast for 20% better price is the right deal.
> 
> Also, I'm at a point in life where a) I rarely regret spending too much for something deemed useful or necessary, but more often regret spending less but getting less, and b) I can afford things I couldn't before.


Here the "extra warranty" is usually a scam.. Very expensive 3rd party companies that tries every loophole there is to NOT help you, in case you actually need the coverage.. here we have 6 months real warranty, then 18 months "complaint period" where you have to prove the item was faulty and not your own fault,and then you are **** out of luck.. Ofcourse if companies want to give consumers extra protection they are welcome,and i personally only buy electronics in shops that gives a proper warranty.. But that dont stop electronic megastores to try and sell these worthless extra warranties at exorbitant prices.. 
Like they say,the last idiot haven't been born yet..


----------



## Medality

aRTee21 said:


> I got my TW9400 with 2 years warranty plus pickup and return included, then bought the extra package for about 300USD (CHF, really - I'm not in the EU but smack in the middle of Europe) for the extension to 6 years total warranty including pickup and return.
> I'm not quite sure how they'll deal with things in case it's a new lamp that's needed when those are no longer available.
> Total price: 3k USD (2719 CHF)
> 
> As others have said, in Europe (not just the EU) the TW9400 seems to come just as naked as the *7400 (5050ub equivalent)*, for about 20% higher price.
> For the 1.200.000:1 contrast ratio instead of 1.000.000:1 everyone has to decide for themselves if that is worth the price hike. For me, 20% better contrast for 20% better price is the right deal.
> 
> Also, I'm at a point in life where a) I rarely regret spending too much for something deemed useful or necessary, but more often regret spending less but getting less, and b) I can afford things I couldn't before.


From what I understand, the TW7400 is the same as the 4010 (200 000:1 contrast ratio, limited HDR slider, no 4K HDR @ 60Hz). It is WAY overpriced in Europe. Here there's at least a $1000 difference between the 5050UB and the 4010.


----------



## Luminated67

In the UK the TW9400 (6050) is exclusive to Epson dealers and isn't given to the box movers like Amazon so you won't see the same kind of discounts on this model that you can (at times) see on the TW7400, this has obviously help it's second-hand value compared to the rest of the Epson range so over here in the UK at least it's holding similar money percentagewise to that of a JVC.


----------



## fredworld

ShadowBoy said:


> fredworld, when you say you "wouldn't order one based on my experience with three other vendors and four lamps.", even though it is Epson OEM, is that because you feel the price is too high or that you doubt the reliability of actually receiving your purchase from a company other than Epson?
> I have purchased two OEM Epson lamps over the years and two Epson compatible non-OEM lamps. In each case the OEM lamps lasted about twice as long as the non-OEM ones. After the second non-Epson lamp I decided that the savings of a cheaper lamp just wasn't worth it. Now I stick to Epson lamps only. I haven't tried replacing only the bulb, but some people on this forum say they have successfully done it. Can't be that hard I'd imagine. Just a matter of finding if Epson sells the bulbs only, otherwise you'd have to replace it with a non-OEM bulb.
> I haven't even set up my Epson 6050 projector yet as I STILL haven't finished my cinema renovation, and the projector has been sitting here for nearly two years. But this news of a bulb shortage is disturbing. If Epson truly is phasing out bulb production to encourage us to move to laser, I guess I'll have to use non-OEM bulbs until I upgrade my projector. However, considering this 6050 is the only upgrade since I purchased my first projector (Epson EH-TW2000) in 2006, and I'm 65 years old, I'll probably be dead before I ever upgrade again. Unless I win the lottery.





fredworld said:


> Not trying to be curt, and my apologies if I appear so, but my experiences purchasing lamps is well documented in this thread. Search my posts for the reasons why I stated as I did and what my plans are for lamp replacement.


Just to be clear on my use of the (non-Epson) acronym *OEM*:_ "Products from an OEM are normally cheaper thanks to economies of scale. As the company partners with others to manufacture goods in large numbers, both the price and production time are significantly reduced. However, you need to verify what you're getting when you purchase a product from an OEM." _

FWIW to new comers to this thread, I had some time this morning so I gathered my posts regarding my lamp replacement debacle, which all started because last September MyProjectorLamps ran a 10% off sale on Epson, so I figured I should have a back up. Several months later I decided to try the lamp before the 180 day warranty expired. These are my posts concerning my journey:
*9728*, *9937*, *9945*, *9967*, *9993*,*10001*, *10024*, *10026*,

Hopefully, I can lay this issue to rest, for me at least, as I await Epson to restock.


----------



## DaGamePimp

fredworld said:


> Has anyone ever just replaced the "bulb" inside the original Epson lamp housing? How much of a chore is it?


I have not done the L89 Epson lamp but it's not too difficult and can be done, just have to make sure gloves are worn because you don't want to handle the bulb itself (oils from skin).

- Jason


----------



## kdog750

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Here the "extra warranty" is usually a scam.. Very expensive 3rd party companies that tries every loophole there is to NOT help you, in case you actually need the coverage.. here we have 6 months real warranty, then 18 months "complaint period" where you have to prove the item was faulty and not your own fault,and then you are **** out of luck.. Ofcourse if companies want to give consumers extra protection they are welcome,and i personally only buy electronics in shops that gives a proper warranty.. But that dont stop electronic megastores to try and sell these worthless extra warranties at exorbitant prices..
> Like they say,the last idiot haven't been born yet..


There is certainly a risk of an extended warranty not coming through.
However, my Samsung Series Q8N 82" TV just developed a line at the bottom of the screen. The repair shop said it's a bad panel and couldn't be fixed. Asurion issued a $4000 check to me within two weeks (came in yesterday). I'm just waiting on the new Samsung releases to buy a new one. I bought it off Amazon.


----------



## rekbones

fredworld said:


> Just to be clear on my use of the acronym *OEM*:_ "Products from an OEM are normally cheaper thanks to economies of scale. As the company partners with others to manufacture goods in large numbers, both the price and production time are significantly reduced. However, you need to verify what you're getting when you purchase a product from an OEM." _
> 
> FWIW to new comers to this thread, I had some time this morning so I gathered my posts regarding my lamp replacement debacle, which all started because last September MyProjectorLamps ran a 10% off sale on Epson, so I figured I should have a back up. Several months later I decided to try the lamp before the 180 day warranty expired. These are my posts concerning my journey:
> *9728*, *9937*, *9945*, *9967*, *9993*,*10001*, *10024*, *10026*,
> 
> Hopefully, I can lay this issue to rest, for me at least, as I await Epson to restock.


It is my understanding that OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacture so I would term it as a lamp/housing direct from Epson. Why some think it is third party I have no clue. Possibly it came from terms like generic housing with an OEM lamp as the Original Manufacture of the lamp is Osram, Philips, or Ushio not Epson. Epson only manufactures the housing and buys the lamp 3rd party.


----------



## mon2479

DaGamePimp said:


> I have not done the L89 Epson lamp but it's not too difficult and can be done, just have to make sure gloves are worn because you don't want to handle the bulb itself (oils from skin).
> 
> - Jason


Anyone want to take a crack at it and post step by step process with pics or do a video?


----------



## SpedInFargo

kdog750 said:


> My understanding is the 6050 is basically the 5050 but it's black, comes with an extra bulb, and a longer warranty. It has a contrast of 1.3 million to 1 vs 1 million, but from everything I've read you can't tell the difference.


Isn't the 6050 needed for anamorphic lens support as well? Someone can jump in if I'm incorrect on that...


----------



## kdog750

SpedInFargo said:


> Isn't the 6050 needed for anamorphic lens support as well? Someone can jump in if I'm incorrect on that...


looking on the epson website, it says that ability requires an anamorphic lens kit sold separately. I'm not sure if they are talking about the DCR Paladin lens, but if so, those things are twice the cost of this projector.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

kdog750 said:


> There is certainly a risk of an extended warranty not coming through.
> However, my Samsung Series Q8N 82" TV just developed a line at the bottom of the screen. The repair shop said it's a bad panel and couldn't be fixed. Asurion issued a $4000 check to me within two weeks (came in yesterday). I'm just waiting on the new Samsung releases to buy a new one. I bought it off Amazon.


Service in Europe is non-existant. Here you have to fight for your rights most times, we can't litigate us out of debacles.
People are mostly idiots in Europe, despite some stores have absolutely atrocious customer service, people still use these stores a lot as most only look at price.
The stores with great customer service have a hard time competing with the big bulk stores as people, again , are idiots.
And then they complain, complain and complain when they find out that their expensive extra warranty does not cover the exact problem their device has.
Mostly because they all use the same service center that always usr the "moisture" or self inflicted fault to get out of paying.
In Europe extra warranties are indeed a scam

I bought my Epson at the same store i have purchased most my equipment at, a store that has awesome service, so i ain't worried about that, i just hope they will manage to get the 2 lamps i ordered in stock before i need it. But that ain't their fault.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

mon2479 said:


> Anyone want to take a crack at it and post step by step process with pics or do a video?







Knock yourself out.. 

The bulbs are almost as expensive as the whole lamp here though.


----------



## aRTee21

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Here the "extra warranty" is usually a scam.. Very expensive 3rd party companies that tries every loophole there is to NOT help you, in case you actually need the coverage.. here we have 6 months real warranty, then 18 months "complaint period" where you have to prove the item was faulty and not your own fault,and then you are **** out of luck.. Ofcourse if companies want to give consumers extra protection they are welcome,and i personally only buy electronics in shops that gives a proper warranty.. But that dont stop electronic megastores to try and sell these worthless extra warranties at exorbitant prices..
> Like they say,the last idiot haven't been born yet..


We normally have 12 months of warranty, but due to the EU being all around us, most shops have adjusted to 24 months.

I got the extra warranty from the shop I bought the pj from. I don't care which shop they have behind them (there are just a handfull of repair shops in the country, which all electronic manufacturers outsource to), they have to arrange all between the pickup and drop off.


----------



## rekbones

SpedInFargo said:


> Isn't the 6050 needed for anamorphic lens support as well? Someone can jump in if I'm incorrect on that...


That's correct the 5050 doesn't have the anamorphic stretch built in but the 6050 does. This just a money grab by Epson as virtually every other projector on the planet has it. I suspect it is just a jumper on the logic board disabling it in the 5050 since they both have identical firmware.


----------



## Kieran

rekbones said:


> It is my understanding that OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacture so I would term it as a lamp/housing direct from Epson. Why some think it is third party I have no clue. Possibly it came from terms like generic housing with an OEM lamp as the Original Manufacture of the lamp is Osram, Philips, or Ushio not Epson. Epson only manufactures the housing and buys the lamp 3rd party.


OEM can refer to a number of things. It does stand for Original Equipment Manufacturer though. That could mean Epson itself is the OEM, or that they have a 3rd party (why 3rd? wouldn't it be a 2nd party? LOL) making the bulbs which Epson then put into their lamp assemblies, or they could have 2 3rd parties - a bulb manufacturer and another company that manufactures the lamp assembly per Epson's designs. Then that company (or even another one) assembles bulbs and lamp housings and delivers to Epson.

Regardless of what version of these various scenarios actually is the case. A lamp assembly sold and labeled OEM must be the part that is actually used by Epson. There could be several different lamp assemblies available as OEM equipment for Epson to use in their lamps. But if it's OEM, then Epson can/could/does use it in their new projectors that are sent to retailers.

"OEM" does NOT mean "a compatible generic knock-off that works".

If you are buying something purported to be an OEM lamp, and it doesn't fit, or comes with the wrong screws, then it's NOT an OEM part.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Kieran said:


> OEM can refer to a number of things. It does stand for Original Equipment Manufacturer though. That could mean Epson itself is the OEM, or that they have a 3rd party (why 3rd? wouldn't it be a 2nd party? LOL) making the bulbs which Epson then put into their lamp assemblies, or they could have 2 3rd parties - a bulb manufacturer and another company that manufactures the lamp assembly per Epson's designs. Then that company (or even another one) assembles bulbs and lamp housings and delivers to Epson.
> 
> Regardless of what version of these various scenarios actually is the case. A lamp assembly sold and labeled OEM must be the part that is actually used by Epson. There could be several different lamp assemblies available as OEM equipment for Epson to use in their lamps. But if it's OEM, then Epson can/could/does use it in their new projectors that are sent to retailers.
> 
> "OEM" does NOT mean "a compatible generic knock-off that works".
> 
> If you are buying something purported to be an OEM lamp, and it doesn't fit, or comes with the wrong screws, then it's NOT an OEM part.


I myself am a user of the wrong nomenclature. 
All the lamps sold as "original bulb in generic housing" is aftermarket items,its just easier writing oem. However, the aftermarket items can have been made and/or sold by the original manufacturer in the first place. Maybe this is why all the generic ones now have too large screws because Epson sold off the faulty line to 3rd party sellers..

I do hope people understand oem is just what Kieran explained, a bare, usually bulk product made to or by specifications by the original manufacturer,while the aftermarket are knockoffs,copies or what have you..


----------



## Luminated67

I am pretty sure Epson do not manufacture everything in their products just as a car manufacturer doesn't manufacturer all the parts in their cars. In my opinion OEM refers to a part used by the manufacturer in this case Epson used in the construction of their product and doesn't not mean THEY have to make themselves.

Anyone can make the part as long as it meets the spec set by Epson but to gain the term OEM has to mean that Epson themselves use it in the construction of their product.


----------



## Kieran

Luminated67 said:


> I am pretty sure Epson do not manufacture everything in their products just as a car manufacturer doesn't manufacturer all the parts in their cars. In my opinion OEM refers to a part used by the manufacturer in this case Epson used in the construction of their product and doesn't not mean THEY have to make themselves.
> 
> Anyone can make the part as long as it meets the spec set by Epson but to gain the term OEM has to mean that Epson themselves use it in the construction of their product.



So pretty much what I said. 

But there's not really much regulation or enforcement of this terminology. An off brand generic knock off could claim to be selling OEM parts, and get away with it, until a bunch of HT geeks get pissed off and report them to the BBB or something.  LOL

EDIT: or better yet, report them to Epson! Not sure if Epson would care, but they might.


----------



## DavidK442




----------



## Andres Chauta

Can the 5050ub be mounted vertically with the lens pointing straight up towards the ceiling?


----------



## aRTee21

Andres Chauta said:


> Can the 5050ub be mounted vertically with the lens pointing straight up towards the ceiling?


From the manual, chapter "Installing" "various setting methods", page 16:


> Do not use the projector installed vertically. Doing so could cause a malfunction.


----------



## Andres Chauta

aRTee21 said:


> From the manual, chapter "Installing" "various setting methods", page 16:


Thank you! I must've missed it as I did look in the manual.


----------



## Kieran

Andres Chauta said:


> Thank you! I must've missed it as I did look in the manual.


I am curious though... what's the use case for pointing vertically? Movies on the ceiling? Pink champagne on ice?
Or more seriously... some sort of art installation?
(with apologies to The Eagles)


----------



## Sorny

Kieran said:


> I am curious though... what's the use case for pointing vertically? Movies on the ceiling? Pink champagne on ice?
> Or more seriously... some sort of art installation?
> (with apologies to The Eagles)


Maybe to bounce off a mirror to get the throw distance required for a large screen in a room that isn't big enough? But if that's the case, it could be mounted upright...


----------



## Andres Chauta

Sorny said:


> Maybe to bounce off a mirror to get the throw distance required for a large screen in a room that isn't big enough? But if that's the case, it could be mounted upright...


Haha exactly right!


----------



## RVD26

I know we're not allowed to talk price, but there's a GREAT sale happening right now on a refurbished model directly from Epson. I finally pulled the trigger.


----------



## sigma722

RVD26 said:


> I know we're not allowed to talk price, but there's a GREAT sale happening right now on a refurbished model directly from Epson. I finally pulled the trigger.


Glad I could help hahaha


----------



## Sorny

RVD26 said:


> I know we're not allowed to talk price, but there's a GREAT sale happening right now on a refurbished model directly from Epson. I finally pulled the trigger.


That is a smoking deal!


----------



## RVD26

sigma722 said:


> Glad I could help hahaha


Yes, thank you fellow Slickdealer


----------



## Kieran

RVD26 said:


> I know we're not allowed to talk price, but there's a GREAT sale happening right now on a refurbished model directly from Epson. I finally pulled the trigger.


Congrats! You got the single one that was on sale.  I saw the price and actually considered cancelling my order and buying one from Epson, but it's already out of stock. 

If you ever see one for sale on the refub site, buy it. If you don't it'll be gone in minutes.


----------



## Kieran

Andres Chauta said:


> Haha exactly right!


You could just use 2 mirrors and keep the pj on its feet. Point it at back wall, reflect 45deg up, at ceiling reflect 45deg* out toward screen.
* 45deg +/- amount to point it at screen properly.


----------



## Han Wedge

is it over?

update: ok it is... only one? does it happen often?


----------



## Kieran

Han Wedge said:


> is it over?
> 
> update: ok it is... only one? does it happen often?


Seems to happen every couple weeks or so... And seems like there's only one, or very few anyway. They go very quickly.


----------



## Andres Chauta

Kieran said:


> You could just use 2 mirrors and keep the pj on its feet. Point it at back wall, reflect 45deg up, at ceiling reflect 45deg* out toward screen.
> * 45deg +/- amount to point it at screen properly.


I'll see if I can give this a quick test to see if its viable.


----------



## Kieran

Andres Chauta said:


> I'll see if I can give this a quick test to see if its viable.


You're going to potentially get a lot of keystone effect to have to work with. You'd need some pretty precise ability to adjust the tilt of each mirror. In theory, the keystone off of one mirror can be cancelled out by the keystone off the next mirror. But as I said, you'd need the ability to very precisely adjust each mirror. Lots of trial and error, I suspect. And then you'll have the pj's own lens shift to help, but that could also make it more complicated. And this doesn't even consider the fact that most mirrors are fairly inefficient (reflect much less than 100% of the light) and also shift the color of the light (usually toward slightly green/blue due to cheap glass used).
But if you're into this kind of tweak&tinker-fest, it could be fun!


----------



## aRTee21

Kieran said:


> You could just use 2 mirrors and keep the pj on its feet. Point it at back wall, reflect 45deg up, at ceiling reflect 45deg* out toward screen.
> * 45deg +/- amount to point it at screen properly.


Careful, as Kieran already mentioned in his later message, due to potential keystone effects.

And aside the potential coloring effects, keep in mind that mirrors are rarely really flat, which will show up in magnification to the screen.
Also, one of them will likely be facing somewhat upward - a standard dust trap... which you won't want to touch too much, due to the risk of creating misalignment towards the screen.


----------



## kdog750

So is there any indication when Epson is going to start producing these again? Spring? Summer?


----------



## SimpleTheater

kdog750 said:


> So is there any indication when Epson is going to start producing these again? Spring? Summer?


Are you having a hard time finding one? They seem to be in abundant supply.


----------



## kdog750

SimpleTheater said:


> Are you having a hard time finding one? They seem to be in abundant supply.


I ordered mine through Mike Garret here on the forum but they haven't been able to receive stock yet. So I called Dream Theater in Dallas who handles them and he said no one in the country has them. Then I called Best Buy to check to see if it was available at one of the Magnolia Centers. He looked up the inventory and said it wasn't available for purchase at any Best Buy in the country. He said it's a high priority restock item but that they had none.

I did call Epson directly but they said they had no information on it and I would have to check with an authorized dealer.


----------



## fredworld

kdog750 said:


> I ordered mine through Mike Garret here on the forum but they haven't been able to receive stock yet. So I called Dream Theater in Dallas who handles them and he said no one in the country has them. Then I called Best Buy to check to see if it was available at one of the Magnolia Centers. He looked up the inventory and said it wasn't available for purchase at any Best Buy in the country. He said it's a high priority restock item but that they had none.
> 
> I did call Epson directly but they said they had no information on it and I would have to check with an authorized dealer.


*This Amazon ad* says 10 left in stock.
The BEST Buy site gives options for pick up locations.
*B&H Photo site* says in stock.
Although it's quite understandable if you prefer a local vendor.


----------



## kdog750

fredworld said:


> *This Amazon ad* says 10 left in stock.
> The BEST Buy site gives options for pick up locations.
> *B&H Photo site* says in stock.
> Although it's quite understandable if you prefer a local vendor.


Thanks for the links. I was specifically after the 6050 and it's out at B&H. The Amazon price is quite a bit higher than I would be paying but perhaps that price reflects the low stock. It would add a 25% premium after taxes. I'll wait until June 1st for them to restock. If the model is still not available I will switch to the JVC x790R I suppose. I don't like how the 790 has a shorter throw ratio. It would mean I would lose 5" off my screen size.

I did just check again with a live agent at Best Buy. They rechecked inventory and it's not available regardless of what the website says


----------



## Kieran

kdog750 said:


> Thanks for the links. I was specifically after the 6050 and it's out at B&H. The Amazon price is quite a bit higher than I would be paying but perhaps that price reflects the low stock. It would add a 25% premium after taxes. I'll wait until June 1st for them to restock. If the model is still not available I will switch to the JVC x790R I suppose. I don't like how the 790 has a shorter throw ratio. It would mean I would lose 5" off my screen size.
> 
> I did just check again with a live agent at Best Buy. They rechecked inventory and it's not available regardless of what the website says


My local Magnolia/BBY has a floor sample 6050 that is for sale. Sunnyvale CA store, if you wanna give them a call.


----------



## SimpleTheater

Amazon says 5 [6050's] left in stock, direct from Epson:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FTBXHQL?pf_rd_r=D6E64F8EDTXQ25XE6HBP&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=e9af1883-1dfb-4aed-b773-4c431bfadd3d&pd_rd_w=HDY3a&pd_rd_wg=N2ZOk&ref_=pd_gw_unk


----------



## kdog750

SimpleTheater said:


> Amazon says 5 [6050's] left in stock, direct from Epson:
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FTBXHQL?pf_rd_r=D6E64F8EDTXQ25XE6HBP&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=e9af1883-1dfb-4aed-b773-4c431bfadd3d&pd_rd_w=HDY3a&pd_rd_wg=N2ZOk&ref_=pd_gw_unk


Yea I saw that. But without mentioning prices, after taxes it puts about a 25% premium over what I'm paying for it now through Mike. That's a pretty steep increase.


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## Kieran

SimpleTheater said:


> Amazon says 5 [6050's] left in stock, direct from Epson:
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FTBXHQL?pf_rd_r=D6E64F8EDTXQ25XE6HBP&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=e9af1883-1dfb-4aed-b773-4c431bfadd3d&pd_rd_w=HDY3a&pd_rd_wg=N2ZOk&ref_=pd_gw_unk


Huh? That link doesn't say direct from Epson, it says it's from some AV store.


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## bungi43

kdog750 said:


> Thanks for the links. I was specifically after the 6050 and it's out at B&H. The Amazon price is quite a bit higher than I would be paying but perhaps that price reflects the low stock. It would add a 25% premium after taxes. I'll wait until June 1st for them to restock. If the model is still not available I will switch to the JVC x790R I suppose. I don't like how the 790 has a shorter throw ratio. It would mean I would lose 5" off my screen size.
> 
> I did just check again with a live agent at Best Buy. They rechecked inventory and it's not available regardless of what the website says


Running into the same thing. It has left wherever, and apparently hung up in a port somewhere. No clue when it'll arrive, although I'm excited. 6050UB is what I got as well.


----------



## kdog750

bungi43 said:


> Running into the same thing. It has left wherever, and apparently hung up in a port somewhere. No clue when it'll arrive, although I'm excited. 6050UB is what I got as well.


Nice.
FWIW, I almost went with the JVC NX7. But after demoing an NX9 in a very nice and expensive setup, I wasn't that impressed given the price. I decided to go with the Epson. I have an old Epson 8700ub and it still has a great picture after all these years. So I'm staying with them. I don't think the jump to true 4k from eshift 5 is worth it. Not for me at least.


----------



## bungi43

kdog750 said:


> Nice.
> FWIW, I almost went with the JVC NX7. But after demoing an NX9 in a very nice and expensive setup, I wasn't that impressed given the price. I decided to go with the Epson. I have an old Epson 8700ub and it still has a great picture after all these years. So I'm staying with them. I don't think the jump to true 4k from eshift 5 is worth it. Not for me at least.


I had a 3700 and upgraded last year to a 5040. Got a good deal on the 6050 here. 
I did have a JVC RS400 for a while and it was great, but gaming on it was awful. 4k looked great on it. But I am excited on for the 6050. I've been told it's a very noticeable upgrade from the 5040. I'm just not sure right now how long I want to wait, as the 5040 is pretty solid and I'm trying to decide if I'm just not being content when I should be...lol.


----------



## kdog750

bungi43 said:


> I had a 3700 and upgraded last year to a 5040. Got a good deal on the 6050 here.
> I did have a JVC RS400 for a while and it was great, but gaming on it was awful. 4k looked great on it. But I am excited on for the 6050. I've been told it's a very noticeable upgrade from the 5040. I'm just not sure right now how long I want to wait, as the 5040 is pretty solid and I'm trying to decide if I'm just not being content when I should be...lol.


I just added an SVS PB3000 to replace my old Klipsch powered 12". Also went atmos from a simple 5.1 setup. That was a huge upgrade. So anything the 6050ub adds is gravy. Hopefully they are all in shipment as you say. I was worried that Epson hadn't even started making them again yet. I'll give it until June. If still no word on arrival I will start looking for another projector I guess.


----------



## bungi43

kdog750 said:


> I just added an SVS PB3000 to replace my old Klipsch powered 12". Also went atmos from a simple 5.1 setup. That was a huge upgrade. So anything the 6050ub adds is gravy. Hopefully they are all in shipment as you say. I was worried that Epson hadn't even started making them again yet. I'll give it until June. If still no word on arrival I will start looking for another projector I guess.


Nice. I'm still running an old Klipsch Sub, with some Polk Monitor 70's and LSiM 706c for the center. I have the LSi surrounds as my front surrounds and some klipsch reference as my back surrounds. My receiver is a bit older (Pioneer Elite SC-77) and doesn't do Atmos, but I did run the wiring in my basement for it. I'm very pleased with the picture and sound, which is why I'm thinking if my new order gets hung up too much longer I may just bail and keep the 5040. I'm not in a hurry to get the new one, but as I said maybe I just need to be content with the one I have!


----------



## SimpleTheater

Kieran said:


> Huh? That link doesn't say direct from Epson, it says it's from some AV store.


You're right. Under the product name it says "Visit the Epson Store", so I assumed Epson was selling it direct. Sorry about that.


----------



## SimpleTheater

While we're on the 5050/6050 subject, anyone know if next year we get a new model? I'm currently running a JVC DLA-RS40U and the $600 price tag for a new bulb is ludicrous. I would much rather pick up a 5050 for under $3k and sell my JVC for $1,500 or so, but I don't want to grab one now only to see a new model show up next year.


----------



## Kieran

SimpleTheater said:


> While we're on the 5050/6050 subject, anyone know if next year we get a new model? I'm currently running a JVC DLA-RS40U and the $600 price tag for a new bulb is ludicrous. I would much rather pick up a 5050 for under $3k and sell my JVC for $1,500 or so, but I don't want to grab one now only to see a new model show up next year.


I don't think any one knows anything for sure. Everyone seems to agree that it would be very surprising if Epson does not debut a new updated model in the "UB" line at some point this year. But it's all speculation.
The fact that both 6050 and 5050 are pretty much out of stock everywhere, and people are having a hard time finding lamps, might indicate that they are getting ready to announce a new model and discontinue the current models. Or it could just be covid.


----------



## RRF

Eastporters.ca _(Oakville, Canada)_ has 5050UB and 6050UB in stock.
I shop there and have always found their prices always to be very good, despite the exchange rate.


----------



## Dehrig Richard

RRF said:


> Eastporters.ca _(Oakville, Canada)_ has 5050UB and 6050UB in stock.
> I shop there and have always found their prices always to be very good, despite the exchange rate.


Eastporters is not an authorized reseller of Epson, so they won’t honour their warranty. The better option in Canada is visions.ca 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RRF

Dehrig Richard said:


> Eastporters is not an authorized reseller of Epson, so they won’t honour their warranty. The better option in Canada is visions.ca


Wow..that is news to me.They sell a lot of AV equipment.
They will be getting a call tomorrow.


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## RRF

RRF said:


> Wow..that is news to me.They sell a lot of AV equipment.
> They will be getting a call tomorrow.


I just verified my warranty on the Epson.ca site (Warranty Verification | Epson Canada).
It has the full 2 year warranty.
I guess you are saying that I could not return it to Eastporters under warranty. That does not bother me...the Epson service centre is much closer to me anyways.


----------



## Pretorian

I just got the Spears and Munsil calibration disc. I feel somewhat intimidated by all the options and settings. Is it just to follow the articles step by step and try it out? I feel as if I might break something but I know I wont since it is only settings but can you give me a push out the door... ?


----------



## Dehrig Richard

RRF said:


> I just verified my warranty on the Epson.ca site (Warranty Verification | Epson Canada).
> It has the full 2 year warranty.
> I guess you are saying that I could not return it to Eastporters under warranty. That does not bother me...the Epson service centre is much closer to me anyways.


Epson is pretty explicit on their website [Authorized Home Projector Dealers | Epson Canada ]and names Eastporters by name (among others). 

Though, if your warranty is listed as active, it’s all good. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Pretorian said:


> I just got the Spears and Munsil calibration disc. I feel somewhat intimidated by all the options and settings. Is it just to follow the articles step by step and try it out? I feel as if I might break something but I know I wont since it is only settings but can you give me a push out the door... ?


Start with a patient reading of the *Getting Started* guide. Presumably, your disc came with the blue filter. Once I studied the guide I discovered that, for the most part, I could get very close to a really good image using the Contrast, Brightness and Color patterns. Then tweak further by experimenting with the Gamma control and Color Space and rechecking the Contrast, Brightness and Color. After a few weeks of viewing movies, then check again. There's a fair amount of trial and error and patience. Now, when I check at about every 150-200 hours of lamp time, it takes only about 10 minutes to tweak things. As usual, YMMV.


----------



## RRF

Dehrig Richard said:


> Epson is pretty explicit on their website [Authorized Home Projector Dealers | Epson Canada ]and names Eastporters by name (among others).
> 
> Though, if your warranty is listed as active, it’s all good.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for that info.
I don't know how you found that page...I cannot find a link to it anywhere on the Epson.ca site.

Needless to say, I am not pleased.

Fortunately I do not trust any retailers, and I inspected the carton and unit thoroughly, before taking it.

But I am not pleased with their deception, and have contacted Epson for guidance. And I am not done with Eastporters also.

_I had completely forgotten about Visions...used to shop there many years ago._


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Knock yourself out..
> 
> The bulbs are almost as expensive as the whole lamp here though.


Well, this is disappointing. *Epson's ELPLP89 lamp* price increased to $440, a 33% increase. I think this was inevitable which I feel is more likely due to the extra hours necessary for quality control oversight to assure that the housings are spec'd properly than a more nefarious reason like just plain greed. Regardless, I suspect the price increase is an indication that the lamps will be available soon...I hope.
Maybe replacing the bulb in the housing is a more attractive option.

EDIT: READ THE CANADIAN SITE IN ERROR. SEE LATER POST.


----------



## RRF

RRF said:


> Thanks for that info.
> I don't know how you found that page...I cannot find a link to it anywhere on the Epson.ca site.
> Needless to say, I am not pleased.
> Fortunately I do not trust any retailers, and I inspected the carton and unit thoroughly, before taking it.
> But I am not pleased with their deception, and have contacted Epson for guidance. And I am not done with Eastporters also


Well Good news...I just spent 45 mins. on the phone with Epson's corporate office, and they assured me Eastporters is an authorized reseller.


----------



## RRF

fredworld said:


> Well, this is disappointing. *Epson's ELPLP89 lamp* price increased to $440, a 33% increase. I think this was inevitable which I feel is more likely due to the extra hours necessary for quality control oversight to assure that the housings are spec'd properly than a more nefarious reason like just plain greed. Regardless, I suspect the price increase is an indication that the lamps will be available soon...I hope.
> Maybe replacing the bulb in the housing is a more attractive option.


That is the Canadian price...$330 on the USA site...


----------



## fredworld

RRF said:


> That is the Canadian price...$330 on the USA site...


Holy illumination, Batman!!! How'd I miss that??? Thanks for pointing that out. I feel 33% better.


----------



## Dehrig Richard

RRF said:


> Well Good news...I just spent 45 mins. on the phone with Epson's corporate office, and they assured me Eastporters is an authorized reseller.


That’s good news. Though I am disappointed as Visions refused a price match a couple months ago as they said they weren’t authorized! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

Dehrig Richard said:


> That’s good news. Though I am disappointed as Visions refused a price match a couple months ago as they said they weren’t authorized!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I bought my screen from eastporters and have done lots of back and forth over the last year or two getting quotes for the 5050/6050/NX5 and Visions is never anywhere close in price.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## RRF

reechings said:


> I bought my screen from eastporters and have done lots of back and forth over the last year or two getting quotes for the 5050/6050/NX5 and Visions is never anywhere close in price.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


Good info...I was going to try a price match -15% on a Denon 3700H, but figured since EP did not post a price, only emails quotes, it would never be accepted by Vision. Guess my suspicions are correct.


----------



## nefrina

fredworld said:


> Well, this is disappointing. *Epson's ELPLP89 lamp* price increased to $440, a 33% increase.


yikes.


----------



## fredworld

serith said:


> yikes.


I thought that would happen. I just edited my original post to reflect my error. Apologies about the confusion.


----------



## ShadowBoy

fredworld said:


> Not trying to be curt, and my apologies if I appear so, but my experiences purchasing lamps is well documented in this thread. Search my posts for the reasons why I stated as I did and what my plans are for lamp replacement.


I really didn't think you were being curt, in any way. I just thought, in this case, that OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) meant that the lamp was either manufactured by Epson or that they specifically used this part in their projectors. I have tried ones that were compatible but didn't say Epson on the lamp. In every case they didn't last as long. Looks like we are in agreement. I stay away from the OEM's that don't say Epson on the lamp housing.


----------



## Luminated67

These lamp prices in both the US and Canada are ridiculously expensive compared to the UK price of £105.


----------



## veekay

Question regarding the 5050 and gaming. Since this is technically a faux-k projector, is there any benefit from trying to run games in true 4K or would I see the same results just running in 1080?


----------



## fredworld

Luminated67 said:


> These lamp prices in both the US and Canada are ridiculously expensive compared to the UK price of £105.


Is that price from Epson? Or a non-Epson aftermarket merchant? 

The £105 is about $140 USD which at that price is higher than most aftermarket merchants in the US. I've seen prices as low as $90 for aftermarket Elplp89 lamps but generally around $120-$130 and up to $200+.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> Is that price from Epson? Or a non-Epson aftermarket merchant?
> 
> The £105 is about $140 USD which at that price is higher than most aftermarket merchants in the US. I've seen prices as low as $90 for aftermarket Elplp89 lamps but generally around $120-$130 and up to $200+.


I paid around 175$ for an original Epson from my dealer,i ordered 2 so got a little discount.. The original lamps are cheap,but not as cheap as aftermarket lamps,which is around 80-90$ depending on where you buy them. Problem is they are out of stock of the originals,and the aftermarket i bought didnt fit due to wrong screw size.
I think this is the first time something has been cheaper in EU compared to US if the price is indeed 330$


----------



## Luminated67

fredworld said:


> Is that price from Epson? Or a non-Epson aftermarket merchant?
> 
> The £105 is about $140 USD which at that price is higher than most aftermarket merchants in the US. I've seen prices as low as $90 for aftermarket Elplp89 lamps but generally around $120-$130 and up to $200+.


A genuine part from Epson UK.


----------



## joedeeze

Hey everyone,

I just picked up this projector. Super excited to set it up, but I'm wondering if someone can give me some insight as to how well the vertical lens shift works.

My screen is 110" and throw distance is about 13 ft. I'm unable to mount the projector on the ceiling, but I can place the projector right side up on a high shelf about 12"-16" from the ceiling (8ft ceilings). I believe the lens would be slightly higher than the top edge of my screen. Would the lens shift on this projector allow me the flexibility to do that?

Thanks!


----------



## rekbones

joedeeze said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I just picked up this projector. Super excited to set it up, but I'm wondering if someone can give me some insight as to how well the vertical lens shift works.
> 
> My screen is 110" and throw distance is about 13 ft. I'm unable to mount the projector on the ceiling, but I can place the projector right side up on a high shelf about 12"-16" from the ceiling (8ft ceilings). I believe the lens would be slightly higher than the top edge of my screen. Would the lens shift on this projector allow me the flexibility to do that?
> 
> Thanks!


The 5050 has a +/-96% vertical shift so it can be 46% of screen height above or below the screen or anywhere in between right side up or inverted. You will have no issue with your shelf.


----------



## joedeeze

Awesome. Thanks!


----------



## Pretorian

fredworld said:


> Start with a patient reading of the *Getting Started* guide. Presumably, your disc came with the blue filter. Once I studied the guide I discovered that, for the most part, I could get very close to a really good image using the Contrast, Brightness and Color patterns. Then tweak further by experimenting with the Gamma control and Color Space and rechecking the Contrast, Brightness and Color. After a few weeks of viewing movies, then check again. There's a fair amount of trial and error and patience. Now, when I check at about every 150-200 hours of lamp time, it takes only about 10 minutes to tweak things. As usual, YMMV.


I might be stupid but I try to follow the guide but dont understand where to start.
I am at the first step (I think) and want to do contrast. 
"Now reduce the contrast control until the highest bar is just barely visible"
I dont know what "bar" they mean. I have squares with colors and I have white with numbers. They want me to lower the contrast to around 10 and it looks very dark.
Maybe I should post in. Spears forum? I really need some beginners help. Maybe a guide that says what steps I shoudl do. That Spears page is hard to follow.


----------



## fredworld

Pretorian said:


> I might be stupid but I try to follow the guide but dont understand where to start.
> I am at the first step (I think) and want to do contrast.
> "Now reduce the contrast control until the highest bar is just barely visible"
> I dont know what "bar" they mean. I have squares with colors and I have white with numbers. They want me to lower the contrast to around 10 and it looks very dark.
> Maybe I should post in. Spears forum? I really need some beginners help. Maybe a guide that says what steps I shoudl do. That Spears page is hard to follow.


Yes, post to the *Spears forum*. Contrast on my 5050 is most difficult to set. The changes are from very subtle to no effect. I have to get pretty close to the screen to see any change in the intensity of the contrast bars. Setting brightness us much easier. Also, I use Digital Cinema for all my viewing and for making adjustments which seems to reveal some changes more easily. Also, try different Gamma settings.
Also, you should begin with the Rec 709 menu. The Contrast pattern is black and white. If you're seeing colored bars then you're on the wrong pattern.
EDIT: The squares are colored, but the bars are B/W. The boxes inside the squares should be discernible.


----------



## Thalguy

Can the 5050ub do approximately 100" screen at 10'6"? I tried to use the throw calculator at projector central but I am getting a weird result.


----------



## nefrina

Thalguy said:


> Can the 5050ub do approximately 100" screen at 10'6"? I tried to use the throw calculator at projector central but I am getting a weird result.


yes, but the zoom needs to be close to maximum:


----------



## Thalguy

serith said:


> yes, but the zoom needs to be close to maximum:


Thanks! Perhaps I wasn't using zoom. Will that negatively impact the quality of the image?


----------



## Luminated67

Thalguy said:


> Can the 5050ub do approximately 100" screen at 10'6"? I tried to use the throw calculator at projector central but I am getting a weird result.


When I had the 100” screen I originally have my Epson 3.08meters (10ft 10inches) from the screen. Do not be worried about having it mounted this close because you close down the Iris for SDR content with NATURAL picture mode and with HDR content you will be able to use either CINEMA or DIGITAL CINEMA which cut light output by about 30% but because your projector is closer you have lumens to spare.

Truth me for HDR content you want the projector to be close to maximum wide zoom.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> When I had the 100” screen I originally have my Epson 3.08meters (10ft 10inches) from the screen. Do not be worried about having it mounted this close because you close down the Iris for SDR content with NATURAL picture mode and with HDR content you will be able to use either CINEMA or DIGITAL CINEMA which cut light output by about 30% but because your projector is closer you have lumens to spare.
> 
> Truth me for HDR content you want the projector to be close to maximum wide zoom.


I've seen some people comment that max zoom loses some image quality. Is there any truth to that?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

biglen said:


> I've seen some people comment that max zoom loses some image quality. Is there any truth to that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Well you tell me do any of my photos I have took from my projector look like they are losing image quality. LOL


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Well you tell me do any of my photos I have took from my projector look like they are losing image quality. LOL


I was just asking, because I'm maxed out too. I haven't noticed any loss, but I am getting older, and my eyes aren't as good. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> I was just asking, because I'm maxed out too. I haven't noticed any loss, but I am getting older, and my eyes aren't as good.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


FWIW, when I zoom in for 2.35 or greater films, I noticed that I have to slightly adjust focus and then the Screen Door Effect (SDE) is slightly "softer" than the crisp SDE when I'm zoomed out for 16:9. Of course, this is when standing about 8" from my 94" wide screen.


----------



## Medality

I installed my 5050UB this weekend. My first projector ever. Sitting 12' from 120" 16:9 white screen. Default settings (aside from using Preset 3 and HDR 6). Popped in Mulan 4K UltraHD on my Xbox Series X...

My wife and I had a blast. This is just so awesome!

I don't get all the fuss about sharpness issues, HDR or whatever. Once you sit in front of the big screen and see the depth this thing has, the amazing colors and even more amazing dark scenes (you can really see everything), it's WAY better that going to the theater. I can't wait for tonight!
I will now try to darken a bit the surroundings of the screen to reduce reflections. But even as is, the experience is trully something.

Oh yeah, and gaming on a 120" screen is on another level xD.


----------



## biglen

Medality said:


> I installed my 5050UB this weekend. My first projector ever. Sitting 12' from 120" 16:9 white screen. Default settings (aside from using Preset 3 and HDR 6). Popped in Mulan 4K UltraHD on my Xbox Series X...
> 
> My wife and I had a blast. This is just so awesome!
> 
> I don't get all the fuss about sharpness issues, HDR or whatever. Once you sit in front of the big screen and see the depth this thing has, the amazing colors and even more amazing dark scenes (you can really see everything), it's WAY better that going to the theater. I can't wait for tonight!
> I will now try to darken a bit the surroundings of the screen to reduce reflections. But even as is, the experience is trully something.
> 
> Oh yeah, and gaming on a 120" screen is on another level xD.


If you can get some triple black velvet on the sides and ceiling, around your screen, you'll be amazed at how much your picture improves. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## nefrina

biglen said:


> If you can get some triple black velvet on the sides and ceiling, around your screen, you'll be amazed at how much your picture improves.


@Medality 









The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image


A lot of threads have become a home theater improvment color scene around "black"ing out the screen area. Flat black paint, black felt, black velvet, black carpet... You name it! I figured lets put it in this thread and share our thoughts / noticed improvments / methods / pictures of before and...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Luminated67

fredworld said:


> FWIW, when I zoom in for 2.35 or greater films, I noticed that I have to slightly adjust focus and then the Screen Door Effect (SDE) is slightly "softer" than the crisp SDE when I'm zoomed out for 16:9. Of course, this is when standing about 8" from my 94" wide screen.


There must be something wrong if you are seeing SDE from 8ft away, I need to move WAY closer than that to see it. Has you e-shift turned on?


----------



## Luminated67

Treat the room with black velvet makes an amazing difference to not only blacks but colours too. Plus all you ever see is the image on the screen.


----------



## Kieran

Luminated67 said:


> There must be something wrong if you are seeing SDE from 8ft away, I need to move WAY closer than that to see it. Has you e-shift turned on?


He said 8 _inches_ not feet.  LOL


----------



## fredworld

Luminated67 said:


> There must be something wrong if you are seeing SDE from 8ft away, I need to move WAY closer than that to see it. Has you e-shift turned on?


Respectfully, you misread my post.
8"= 8 inches. Nothing is wrong here.


----------



## Luminated67

Kieran said:


> He said 8 _inches_ not feet.  LOL





fredworld said:


> Respectfully, you misread my post.
> 8"= 8 inches. Nothing is wrong here.


😂 I hadn’t my reading glasses on when I read it and I thought there was just one ‘ instead of the two “.

Good to hear my eyesight is OK. 👍

Well for the distance stuff anyway. LOL


----------



## Manu9

Luminated67 said:


> Treat the room with black velvet makes an amazing difference to not only blacks but colours too. Plus all you ever see is the image on the screen.


Would Black Velvet make a big difference when compared to matte black paint?


----------



## Luminated67

Manu9 said:


> Would Black Velvet make a big difference when compared to matte black paint?


Unless it's one of those super expensive matt black paints that you read about but have yet to see anyone using then the answer is YES and by quite a bit.


----------



## mon2479

Luminated67 said:


> Unless it's one of those super expensive matt black paints that you read about but have yet to see anyone using then the answer is YES and by quite a bit.


I have ROSCO TV BLACK on everything, it works really great and paid $60 a gallon, obviously velvet is king. I'm curious, what other expensive matte black paint is there??


----------



## Manu9

Luminated67 said:


> Unless it's one of those super expensive matt black paints that you read about but have yet to see anyone using then the answer is YES and by quite a bit.


Interesting, was hoping to paint all matte black soon, I guess I'll have the screen wall velvet, any good links to buy from? these things are not easy to find/buy where I live sadly.


----------



## Luminated67

Manu9 said:


> Interesting, was hoping to paint all matte black soon, I guess I'll have the screen wall velvet, any good links to buy from? these things are not easy to find/buy where I live sadly.


The stuff I used was self adhesive black velour in 1340mm wide lengths, about 50Meters will do most rooms completely but 25M will do up to the first 9-10 ft from the screen. What you could do is line the walls and ceiling with lining paper and then stick this stuff to the paper making it way easier to return the room to normal.

Check out my link to my room


----------



## Manu9

Luminated67 said:


> The stuff I used was self adhesive black velour in 1340mm wide lengths, about 50Meters will do most rooms completely but 25M will do up to the first 9-10 ft from the screen. What you could do is line the walls and ceiling with lining paper and then stick this stuff to the paper making it way easier to return the room to normal.
> 
> Check out my link to my room


Got it, thanks, that's not too bad of a price too. I assume uncrushed black is the correct one?


----------



## Dehrig Richard

Luminated67 said:


> The stuff I used was self adhesive black velour in 1340mm wide lengths, about 50Meters will do most rooms completely but 25M will do up to the first 9-10 ft from the screen. What you could do is line the walls and ceiling with lining paper and then stick this stuff to the paper making it way easier to return the room to normal.
> 
> Check out my link to my room


How you you have the screen mounted on the wall for quick removal?

I’m looking to do the same thing as I have to contend with a poorly placed window. I’m hoping to replace my pull down screen with a better fixed frame screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Thalguy

Can anyone point me in the direction of some good advice on creating a false wall for the projector screen? I measured my space over the weekend and calculated a wall that will be 126 inches wide, 90 inches tall, and approximately 25 inches deep. I was hoping to build in a small server rack on the right side, facing away from the seats. I also want a fixed screen, but want a way to be able to move the screen enough to get access to the speakers and access to the back of the electronic equipment. Inam not sure if any of this is practical though.


----------



## ShadowBoy

Thalguy said:


> Can anyone point me in the direction of some good advice on creating a false wall for the projector screen? I measured my space over the weekend and calculated a wall that will be 126 inches wide, 90 inches tall, and approximately 25 inches deep. I was hoping to build in a small server rack on the right side, facing away from the seats. I also want a fixed screen, but want a way to be able to move the screen enough to get access to the speakers and access to the back of the electronic equipment. Inam not sure if any of this is practical though.


Here's the address of BigmouthinDC's thread in minimalist false walls. Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall | AVS Forum . It has good stuff and Jeff graciously answers any questions you might have. There are also hundreds of other threads on the subject on this forum. I suggest start with Jeff's thread and if it doesn't have all your answers search for "false wall" on this forum and the other thread titles may address any issues you have. Plus people may post photos that give you ideas for your place.


----------



## Luminated67

Manu9 said:


> Got it, thanks, that's not too bad of a price too. I assume uncrushed black is the correct one?


Yeah ideally you want the uncrushed version.


----------



## Luminated67

Dehrig Richard said:


> How you you have the screen mounted on the wall for quick removal?
> 
> I’m looking to do the same thing as I have to contend with a poorly placed window. I’m hoping to replace my pull down screen with a better fixed frame screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Diverse Screen comes with brackets that allow the screen to be removed easily and replaced again in seconds, though does require two people as the screen isn’t the lightest.


----------



## Kieran

mon2479 said:


> I have ROSCO TV BLACK on everything, it works really great and paid $60 a gallon, obviously velvet is king. I'm curious, what other expensive matte black paint is there??


It's called "Vantablack" and it's availability and cost is slightly worse than unobtanium. Google some images though just for fun. It's crazy stuff. Really cool. A theater room entirely painted in this stuff would be a mind-bending, otherworldly experience, especially if you could remove dust from the air so as not to see the light beam from the projector.  This would be the visual analog of an anechoic chamber for speakers. 

My employer got a part painted in this stuff to try to solve an issue they thought was caused by light reflections. It's super cool crazy weird.


----------



## biglen

mon2479 said:


> I have ROSCO TV BLACK on everything, it works really great and paid $60 a gallon, obviously velvet is king. I'm curious, what other expensive matte black paint is there??


I used this paint, that I bought from Benjamin Moore. The sales rep told me all his home theater installers use it exclusively,and their customers live it. The best part about it, is that it doesn't scuff easily, like the Rosco does. If you do get a scuff, it wipes right off with a damp cloth. I think it was like $90, but it's a European gallon, so not a US gallon.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## RRF

There used to be some settings posted at the beginning of this discussion by a member. Anyone know where they went?


----------



## RRF

RRF said:


> There used to be some settings posted at the beginning of this discussion by a member. Anyone know where they went?


I found it ... the author is now going by the European model name.


----------



## MannFan

Sorry, complete beginner question. I have the 5050 and a Denon S750H. I also have the PS5 and an Amazon 4K firestick. Should I be watching my Netflix, etc. on the PS5 because it's "better" or am I getting the same quality out of the firestick? Additionally, I've only ever used the HDMI cables I've gotten with products but do I need the "better" HDMI cables to take advantage of anything I mentioned.

Thanks in advance. Trying to get into this but it's tough!


----------



## Kieran

RRF said:


> I found it ... the author is now going by the European model name.


Share the link? Lots of people ask your question.


----------



## RRF

Kieran said:


> Share the link? Lots of people ask your question.








Epson TW9400


The Epson TW9400 is a 3lcd, high brightness, high contrast 4K pixel shifting projector with active 3D capabilities. At approx £2550 it's at a fairly unique, highly featured, very flexible and cheap price point for what it offers. There is also the Epson TW9400W this is a white version at approx




sites.google.com




That link is from page 1.

Also more calibration settings at this site.





Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews


Learn about the best calibration settings for your projector. This article is part of a series on home theater projectors from Projector Reviews




www.projectorreviews.com




There is no guarantee these settings will work for your projector. I was primarily looking for EDID information. I did not find very much, so I am going to retrieve the EDID directly from the 5050UB.


----------



## JoeBoy73

Quick question for everyone, I'm having a house built and I had question about the 6050 throw distance. The room is on the small side and I'm wanting to make sure I have the measurements correct. I'm trying to get a 120in screen and the room is 12.4ft deep. Am I correct if the PJ is at the very back of the room , will the lens need to be at 11'10"? Will I have to take in account for the PJ's length also, I'm really hoping this doesn't put me at smaller than 120inches.


----------



## Luminated67

Yes you do have to take into account the length of the projector, the calculations are from from of the lens of the projector to the screen.


----------



## rekbones

JoeBoy73 said:


> Quick question for everyone, I'm having a house built and I had question about the 6050 throw distance. The room is on the small side and I'm wanting to make sure I have the measurements correct. I'm trying to get a 120in screen and the room is 12.4ft deep. Am I correct if the PJ is at the very back of the room , will the lens need to be at 11'10"? Will I have to take in account for the PJ's length also, I'm really hoping this doesn't put me at smaller than 120inches.


You need to subtract about 20" for depth of the projector with some clearance and the screen may take up another inch or so. Your max screen size is a little under 110"


----------



## Pretorian

I might have a problem with my 6050.
I am trying to do a "simple" calibration with the Spears disc. But I cant get the contras to work. If I start at 50 I should lower it so that I can see the grey boxes blinking on the white but I have to lower it to 0 to be able to see a few boxes. Up to 935 maybe 936.

I reset my Epson and used Natural.

I also set the Video range to Limited but nothin changes.

How many grey blinkings do you see with you Epson?


----------



## nefrina

Pretorian said:


> I might have a problem with my 6050.
> I am trying to do a "simple" calibration with the Spears disc. But I cant get the contras to work. If I start at 50 I should lower it so that I can see the grey boxes blinking on the white but I have to lower it to 0 to be able to see a few boxes. Up to 935 maybe 936.
> 
> I reset my Epson and used Natural.
> 
> I also set the Video range to Limited but nothin changes.
> 
> How many grey blinkings do you see with you Epson?


which lamp mode are you using? it's hard/impossible to achieve maximum contrast with these epson's if you're using low lamp power.


----------



## Pretorian

serith said:


> which lamp mode are you using? it's hard/impossible to achieve maximum contrast with these epson's if you're using low lamp power.


I have Medium but there is no difference when choosing High. I still cant see ay more of the grey boxes above 935.


----------



## biglen

JoeBoy73 said:


> Quick question for everyone, I'm having a house built and I had question about the 6050 throw distance. The room is on the small side and I'm wanting to make sure I have the measurements correct. I'm trying to get a 120in screen and the room is 12.4ft deep. Am I correct if the PJ is at the very back of the room , will the lens need to be at 11'10"? Will I have to take in account for the PJ's length also, I'm really hoping this doesn't put me at smaller than 120inches.


If the house is being built, ask the contractor if there is room on the back wall, where you want the projector, to build a box in the wall, to put the projector in. That will get you closer to a 120" image. My room was on the smaller size too, so I built a box in the wall. I have a fan built into the side of the box, that pulls the hot air out, so I was able to add that front panel, to make it quiet when the projector is on. It never gets above 80° in the box. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## aRTee21

RRF said:


> There is no guarantee these settings will work for your projector. I was primarily looking for EDID information. I did not find very much, so I am going to retrieve the EDID directly from the 5050UB.


Regarding EDID, I just pulled this from my linux xorg log file, from the TW9400 / 6050ub:


> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): EDID (in hex):
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 00ffffffffffff004ca305a801010101
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 231c0103800000780ede50a3544c9926
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 0f505420000001010101010101010101
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 01010101010108e80030f2705a80b058
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 8a0040846300001e023a801871382d40
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 582c450040846300001e000000fd0018
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 550f873c000a202020202020000000fc
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 004550534f4e20504a0a202020200113
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 02034db25b61605f5e5d666564636210
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 1f200413220514030212110706161501
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 76030c002000b83ce02eff21ffc08401
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 02030401007c0067d85dc401788003e3
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 05c000e200fbe20f63e3060d01013a80
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): d072382d40102c458040846300001e01
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 1d8018711c1620582c25004084630000
> [ 39.875] (II) AMDGPU(0): 9e000000000000000000000000000044
> [ 39.875] (--) AMDGPU(0): HDMI max TMDS frequency 300000KHz


----------



## keep amonte

Anyone have the 6050UB with Directv 4K receivers? I've been a Dtv customer since 1999 and have a 4K mini downstairs hooked to my Sony XBR-65X900E and I love the picture. Upgraded upstairs in the theater to the 6050 from a Panny PT-AE4000U and went from a 85" crappy white screen to a screen innovations 110 slate 1.2 screen. HD Hockey looks great on close up shots, but not good on those widescreen shots with that size screen. I would like to take advantage of the 4K, especially the amount of Blackhawks games in 4K on the free 4K sports channels that I veiw on my downstairs 4K tv (I get Center Ice every year and originally from Chicago).

My question is there any issues with the Direct Tv 4K receivers (I'll probably have to get a 4K DVR to replace my HD54-DVR currently there) sending the 4k signal to the Epson and the Epson accepting it to use fake 4K? Yes, my 6050 has no issues with all 4K on my AppleTV4K and I have the appropriate HDMI connection. I have been out of contract for 2-3 years and Direct is being very difficult for renewal without a 2 yr contract(I'm OK with a one year). I could easily cut the cord, but then my chances of 4K hockey go way down based on where I live and 4K viewing options. I just don't want to go through the installation and find an issue.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## RRF

That would be the raw EDID hex version
This is the parsed version for my 5050UB as read from a Vero4K
You can also use the Linux/Ubuntu commands 
get-edid, and parse-edid to retrieve the info.


Code:


get-edid | parse-edid




Code:


Rx Brand Name: SEC
Rx Product Name: EPSON
Manufacture Week: 35
Manufacture Year: 2018
Physical size(cm): 0 x 0
EDID Version: 1.3
EDID block number: 0x1
blk0 chksum: 0x13
Source Physical Address[a.b.c.d]: 1.0.0.0
YCC support 0x03, VIC (native 255):
ColorDeepSupport 0xb8 10/12/16/Y444 1/1/0/1
97 96 95 94 93 102 101 100 99 98 16 31 32 4 19 34 5 20 3 2 18 17 7 6 22 21 1 95 94 93 98 353 352 358 357
Audio {format, channel, freq, cce}
Speaker Allocation: 0x00
Vendor: 0x000c03
MaxTMDSClock1 300 MHz
Vendor2: 0xc45dd8
MaxTMDSClock2 600 MHz
Colorimetry: 0xc0
SCDC: 1
RR_Cap: 0
LTE_340M_Scramble: 0
  HDR  DeepColor
checkvalue: 0x13540000

More Info on display capabilities



Code:


[email protected]:/sys/devices/virtual/amhdmitx/amhdmitx0$ cat disp_cap
480p60hz
576p50hz
720p50hz
720p60hz
1080p24hz
1080p30hz
1080i50hz
1080p50hz
1080i60hz
1080p60hz
2160p24hz
2160p25hz
2160p30hz
2160p50hz
2160p50hz420
2160p60hz
2160p60hz420
smpte24hz
smpte25hz
smpte30hz
smpte50hz
smpte50hz420
smpte60hz
smpte60hz420

[email protected]:/sys/devices/virtual/amhdmitx/amhdmitx0$ cat disp_cap_3d
720p50hz FramePacking TopBottom SidebySide
720p60hz FramePacking TopBottom SidebySide
1080p24hz FramePacking TopBottom SidebySide
1080p50hz SidebySide
1080p60hz SidebySide

Where it gets interesting is in the kodi boot log, as it will always default to 1920x1080 unless I force it in the config.



Code:


 Current display setting is 0192001080060.00000pstd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Current output resolution is 0128000720060.00000pstd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 720 x 480 with 720 x 480 @ 60.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Fallback resolution at 16 + 0 00480060.00000pstd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 720 x 480 with 720 x 480 @ 59.940060 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 720 x 576 with 720 x 576 @ 50.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Fallback resolution at 16 + 2 00576050.00000pstd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1280 x 720 with 1280 x 720 @ 50.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Fallback resolution at 16 + 3 00720050.00000pstd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1280 x 720 with 1280 x 720 @ 60.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Fallback resolution at 16 + 4 00720060.00000pstd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1280 x 720 with 1280 x 720 @ 59.940060 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 1920 x 1080 @ 24.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Fallback resolution at 16 + 6 01080024.00000pstd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 1920 x 1080 @ 23.976025 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 1920 x 1080 @ 30.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Fallback resolution at 16 + 8 01080030.00000pstd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 1920 x 1080 @ 29.970030 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 1920 x 1080i @ 50.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Fallback resolution at 16 + 10 01080050.00000istd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 1920 x 1080 @ 50.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Fallback resolution at 16 + 11 01080050.00000pstd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 1920 x 1080i @ 60.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Fallback resolution at 16 + 12 01080060.00000istd
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 1920 x 1080i @ 59.940060 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 1920 x 1080 @ 60.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.262 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Current resolution setting found at 16 + 14
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 1920 x 1080 @ 59.940060 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 24.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 23.976025 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 25.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 30.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 29.970030 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 50.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Previous line repeats 1 times.
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 60.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 59.940060 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 60.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 59.940060 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 4096 x 2160 @ 24.000000 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 4096 x 2160 @ 23.976025 Hz
2021-02-11 11:48:03.263 T:4070730944  NOTICE: Found best resolution 0192001080060.00000pstd at 30, setting to RES_DESK


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> If the house is being built, ask the contractor if there is room on the back wall, where you want the projector, to build a box in the wall, to put the projector in. That will get you closer to a 120" image. My room was on the smaller size too, so I built a box in the wall. I have a fan built into the side of the box, that pulls the hot air out, so I was able to add that front panel, to make it quiet when the projector is on. It never gets above 80° in the box.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That looks slick and added benefit of not having to worry about the color of the projector 

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## hehateme

My BenQ W6000 died recently. I used it for the past 9 years in a dedicated home theater.
I have an AT Screen which 130 inch wide and 55 inches high.
BenQ was mounted 19 feet from the screen. It was ceiling mounted using Chief RPAU mount.
It is big room and seating distance is 17 feet from screen.

I am wondering if 5050 UB can be mounted 19 feet away from the screen. The project throw distance calculator shows ideal throw distance of 17 feet. 

What is the main drawback of mounting the project 19 feet from the screen.

Thanks


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> If the house is being built, ask the contractor if there is room on the back wall, where you want the projector, to build a box in the wall, to put the projector in. That will get you closer to a 120" image. My room was on the smaller size too, so I built a box in the wall. I have a fan built into the side of the box, that pulls the hot air out, so I was able to add that front panel, to make it quiet when the projector is on. It never gets above 80° in the box.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I meant to ask you before when you posted those pictures... is that box fully enclosed, and if so is the hole for the lens/image the only "ventillation"? Any issues with heat?


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> I meant to ask you before when you posted those pictures... is that box fully enclosed, and if so is the hole for the lens/image the only "ventillation"? Any issues with heat?


The box is fully enclosed, but on the left side of the box, I installed this cooling system. You can see the control panel for the fan, mounted on the wall. It has settings to make it turn on at a certain temperature. I have mine set to 80°. 



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_1EEAA2YJV2CYEJ10VNY5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

Ah, OK. I have a similar system going into mine.


----------



## jaredmwright

hehateme said:


> My BenQ W6000 died recently. I used it for the past 9 years in a dedicated home theater.
> I have an AT Screen which 130 inch wide and 55 inches high.
> BenQ was mounted 19 feet from the screen. It was ceiling mounted using Chief RPAU mount.
> It is big room and seating distance is 17 feet from screen.
> 
> I am wondering if 5050 UB can be mounted 19 feet away from the screen. The project throw distance calculator shows ideal throw distance of 17 feet.
> 
> What is the main drawback of mounting the project 19 feet from the screen.
> 
> Thanks


Mine is about that far away, you should have no problem. This projector can make many adjustments with zoom and lens shift to accommodate.


----------



## JoeBoy73

biglen said:


> If the house is being built, ask the contractor if there is room on the back wall, where you want the projector, to build a box in the wall, to put the projector in. That will get you closer to a 120" image. My room was on the smaller size too, so I built a box in the wall. I have a fan built into the side of the box, that pulls the hot air out, so I was able to add that front panel, to make it quiet when the projector is on. It never gets above 80° in the box.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


WOW...great idea Biglen! This could definitely be an option. I'm super close, to the 120...just need to able to move the PJ back a few inches.


----------



## biglen

JoeBoy73 said:


> WOW...great idea Biglen! This could definitely be an option. I'm super close, to the 120...just need to able to move the PJ back a few inches.


And I get minimal noise from the projector in the room, as it acts like a hush box. It's a win win. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## keep amonte

keep amonte said:


> Anyone have the 6050UB with Directv 4K receivers? I've been a Dtv customer since 1999 and have a 4K mini downstairs hooked to my Sony XBR-65X900E and I love the picture. Upgraded upstairs in the theater to the 6050 from a Panny PT-AE4000U and went from a 85" crappy white screen to a screen innovations 110 slate 1.2 screen. HD Hockey looks great on close up shots, but not good on those widescreen shots with that size screen. I would like to take advantage of the 4K, especially the amount of Blackhawks games in 4K on the free 4K sports channels that I veiw on my downstairs 4K tv (I get Center Ice every year and originally from Chicago).
> 
> My question is there any issues with the Direct Tv 4K receivers (I'll probably have to get a 4K DVR to replace my HD54-DVR currently there) sending the 4k signal to the Epson and the Epson accepting it to use fake 4K? Yes, my 6050 has no issues with all 4K on my AppleTV4K and I have the appropriate HDMI connection. I have been out of contract for 2-3 years and Direct is being very difficult for renewal without a 2 yr contract(I'm OK with a one year). I could easily cut the cord, but then my chances of 4K hockey go way down based on where I live and 4K viewing options. I just don't want to go through the installation and find an issue.
> Thanks in advance.


Well I will answer my own question incase someone else wonders. I just had the Directv technician leave after he swapped my 4K mini from the downstairs system to the home theater with my 6050 and I know have 4K Directv where I want it. The Directv receiver passed the 4K and HDR test and I'm all good. No contract renewal to boot. I had a wonderful experience with the installer and he gave me 3 extra 4K HDMI cables and 2 additional power sources for my wireless mini's to leave attached to the various tvs in the house so all we have to do is swap the mini's now without moving all the cords. So helpful. Cannot wait for 4K hockey!


----------



## psyduck103

Kieran said:


> I meant to ask you before when you posted those pictures... is that box fully enclosed, and if so is the hole for the lens/image the only "ventillation"? Any issues with heat?





biglen said:


> And I get minimal noise from the projector in the room, as it acts like a hush box. It's a win win.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My 2cents worth - Just now ordered a 6050 it will just fit


----------



## reechings

psyduck103 said:


> My 2cents worth - Just now ordered a 6050 it will just fit
> View attachment 3091217


Man I'm getting more and more projector alcove envy! I can run my current Epson 3100 in eco mode so fan noise is minimal but medium or high really annoys me so doesn't sounds good if I will need to use those on the 5050 to get good hdr quality.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


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## bluer101

reechings said:


> Man I'm getting more and more projector alcove envy! I can run my current Epson 3100 in eco mode so fan noise is minimal but medium or high really annoys me so doesn't sounds good if I will need to use those on the 5050 to get good hdr quality.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


I have a 5040 and run it on medium. When I watch 3D I gave it on high and both are not loud in my soffit box. It is lined with 1 inch foam wedge to help.


----------



## reechings

bluer101 said:


> I have a 5040 and run it on medium. When I watch 3D I gave it on high and both are not loud in my soffit box. It is lined with 1 inch foam wedge to help.
> 
> View attachment 3091287


So even with the front left open it helps muffle the sound a lot?

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


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## bluer101

reechings said:


> So even with the front left open it helps muffle the sound a lot?
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


Yes it does. I have the sides, top, and back covered with the foam, works great.


----------



## reechings

bluer101 said:


> Yes it does. I have the sides, top, and back covered with the foam, works great.


Yeah I think I will have to go that way for my setup whenever I finally upgrade. When lamps are actually in stock they aren't that expensive so would be nice to be able to run in medium or high regularly.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


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## nefrina

i''m quite happy with my epson home cinema 2150 (for now), however dad just ordered a 6050UB and i can't wait to set it up and do side by side comparisons in my room. of course it's apples & oranges, but i'm curious just how large the performance gap is between them..


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## psyduck103

If it looks too much better will he ever give it to me? It is being delivered to his house.😗


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## Luminated67

The 6050 throws an amazing image


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## nefrina

psyduck103 said:


> If it looks too much better will he ever give it to me? It is being delivered to his house.😗


----------



## lboe12

I am getting really bad black level compression artifacts on prime video content. Pixelated and blotchy. Dark scenes look absolutely terrible. I am trying to figure out if it’s just due to streaming or something with the projector. Anybody else have issues with streaming content?


----------



## millerquad4

First post here! I am finally getting my 6050 professionally calibrated by ChadB (well, scheduled that is.) My original bulb will have around 800 hours at the time of calibration. I know you should have 100-200 hours on the bulb before calibrating....but is 800 too many hours? Should I put in a new one and get it closer to 100-200? Super stoked though with this upcoming calibration!

One more thing: should I purchase the screen I want for the future before calibrating?


----------



## Luminated67

millerquad4 said:


> First post here! I am finally getting my 6050 professionally calibrated by ChadB (well, scheduled that is.) My original bulb will have around 800 hours at the time of calibration. I know you should have 100-200 hours on the bulb before calibrating....but is 800 too many hours? Should I put in a new one and get it closer to 100-200? Super stoked though with this upcoming calibration!


I think the guy to answer that one is ChadB.


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## matty1137

Is Digital Cinema considered the most accurate color mode for 4K HDR content in a light-controlled room?


----------



## millerquad4

Luminated67 said:


> I think the guy to answer that one is ChadB.


Appreciate the response. Agreed, I sent him those questions via email...just have not heard back from him. Thought I would elicit feedback from others, but will see what he says and go from there, thank you!


----------



## Luminated67

matty1137 said:


> Is Digital Cinema considered the most accurate color mode for 4K HDR content in a light-controlled room?


My calibrator chose to use “CINEMA” instead because he found it easier to calibrate but I am sure both it and DIGITAL CINEMA can be calibrated as accurately as each other.


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## ShadowBoy

bluer101 said:


> I have a 5040 and run it on medium. When I watch 3D I gave it on high and both are not loud in my soffit box. It is lined with 1 inch foam wedge to help.
> 
> View attachment 3091287
> View attachment 3091669


Hey, bluer101. Beautiful theater. May I ask, what are those white panels made out of?


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## Fj40jason

Wow. Incredible thread going here with some impressive theater skills...
I just ordered my 5050UB last night and will pair it to the new Denon X6700H and the Roko Ultra player.
I am unsure how the 8k upscale will play out with the Epson display. 
A few questions:
What HDMI cable should I order to run between the receiver and the projector (~40')?
Looks like I will be running HDCP 2.3 out on the Denon and is it ok to use the eARC out to the Epson?


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## Luminated67

^At 40 foot you should only be considering an Optical HDMI cable, the choice you have is vast as is the price some brands charge... I went the cheap route through Amazon knowing if it didn’t work it was a simple process to get a refund but 2 years in my ATZEBE cable hasn’t missed a beat and the image I get is perfection.

It’s currently out of stock in the size required but others are available at similar money. Just check all options out and make sure it’s an OPTICAL cable.


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## Fj40jason

Luminated67 said:


> ^At 40 foot you should only be considering an Optical HDMI cable, the choice you have is vast as is the price some brands charge... I went the cheap route through Amazon knowing if it didn’t work it was a simple process to get a refund but 2 years in my ATZEBE cable hasn’t missed a beat and the image I get is perfection.
> 
> It’s currently out of stock in the size required but others are available at similar money. Just check all options out and make sure it’s an OPTICAL cable.


Thanks. There's even a 5% coupon!
Is everyone running the streaming devices in to their AVR instead of the Epson directly?


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## Luminated67

Fj40jason said:


> Thanks. There's even a 5% coupon!
> Is everyone running the streaming devices in to their AVR instead of the Epson directly?


My streaming is done by my Panasonic UB420 which goes into my AVR first and then out to the Epson, same for the SKY box.


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## mon2479

So I know there is housing issues with aftermarket bulbs, I found on YouTube how to take apart the epson housing and replace just the actual bulb itself. This could be an option for someone who bought a new lamp, but wont fit because the housing wont fit. It looks pretty easy actually.


----------



## fredworld

Luminated67 said:


> My streaming is done by my Panasonic UB420 which goes into my AVR first and then out to the Epson, same for the SKY box.


I use a Roku Ultra through my Marantz AV7704 to my Epson.


----------



## MannFan

Sorry, complete beginner question. I have the 5050 and a Denon S750H. I also have the PS5 and an Amazon 4K firestick. Should I be watching my Netflix, etc. on the PS5 because it's "better" or am I getting the same quality out of the firestick? Additionally, I've only ever used the HDMI cables I've gotten with products but do I need the "better" HDMI cables to take advantage of anything I mentioned.

Thanks in advance. Trying to get into this but it's tough!


----------



## fredworld

mon2479 said:


> So I know there is housing issues with aftermarket bulbs, I found on YouTube how to take apart the epson housing and replace just the actual bulb itself. This could be an option for someone who bought a new lamp, but wont fit because the housing wont fit. It looks pretty easy actually.


There are *earlier posts* on this same point. I have since thought on it and decided not to ever attempt such, unless one is buying the bare bulb only. Consider if, after removing the aftermarket bulb from its faulty housing, it then fails. One must then reinstall it into its original housing and hope that the seller will be gracious enough to replace it or not notice it was tampered with thus voiding the warranty.


----------



## DavidK442

This is going to be a bit of a ramble with no question or useful information, so please bear with me (or just skip to the next post).
(I'm quite sure many reading this thread will be going through, or have gone through the same thought process.)

Ten years ago I made the leap from a tv room to a home theater with projector and screen.
At that time the Epson 8500UB and Panasonic AE4000 were the mid-priced "higher contrast" projectors competing head to head.
A substantial price drop at end of life brought the Panasonic within budget and into my blacked out theater room.
Countless hours spent pouring over the gushing reviews had created unrealistic expectations, and even though brighter scenes were mind blowing, black levels were so bad compared to my CRT that I returned the projector the next day. Months later I picked up a 720p Acer DLP, and even though the dark scene contrast was slightly worse, at 1/3 the price of the Panasonic I was able to live with it.
When the Acer died a few years later I replaced it with the BenQ W1070 DLP. Everything was a bit better (colors, contrast, pixilation) but honestly not a night and day upgrade.
For the past 6 years I have been completely happy with every aspect of the BenQ...except of course for the dark scenes. I know contrast is the single most important aspect of picture quality and the main reason people pay many thousands of dollars for a "good" projector.
So here I am, pouring through the Epson 5050UB thread, seriously contemplating spending $4,000 (Canadian with tax) to fix the contrast problem. (Just typing that makes it sound even more ludicrous.) But will the Epson really be good enough? If its contrast is not *substantially* better than the old 8500UB then I would say "No, not good enough." Clearly the 5050UB's dark scene contrast is much better than my still functioning DLP, but digging a little deeper reveals post after post saying that the Epson UB can't hold a candle to a JVC, which isn't nearly as black as an OLED panel. The older generation JVC DLA X790 is yet another $2,000, which puts the total cost for contrast at $6,000. Going full crazy to the "entry level" JVC NX-5 brings me to a mind-numbing $8,000, but sacrifices a bit of contrast. I love watching movies and would really appreciate excellent contrast but at what cost? The whole thing leaves me feeling...


----------



## Cacitems4sale

Luminated67 said:


> My streaming is done by my Panasonic UB420 which goes into my AVR first and then out to the Epson, same for the SKY box.


Running the Roku Ultra into the AVR and it works beautifully.


----------



## rekbones

DavidK442 said:


> This is going to be a bit of a ramble with no question or useful information, so please bear with me (or just skip to the next post).
> (I'm quite sure many reading this thread will be going through, or have gone through the same thought process.)
> 
> Ten years ago I made the leap from a tv room to a home theater with projector and screen.
> At that time the Epson 8500UB and Panasonic AE4000 were the mid-priced "higher contrast" projectors competing head to head.
> A substantial price drop at end of life brought the Panasonic within budget and into my blacked out theater room.
> Countless hours spent pouring over the gushing reviews had created unrealistic expectations, and even though brighter scenes were mind blowing, black levels were so bad compared to my CRT that I returned the projector the next day. Months later I picked up a 720p Acer DLP, and even though the dark scene contrast was slightly worse, at 1/3 the price of the Panasonic I was able to live with it.
> When the Acer died a few years later I replaced it with the BenQ W1070 DLP. Everything was a bit better (colors, contrast, pixilation) but honestly not a night and day upgrade.
> For the past 6 years I have been completely happy with every aspect of the BenQ...except of course for the dark scenes. I know contrast is the single most important aspect of picture quality and the main reason people pay many thousands of dollars for a "good" projector.
> So here I am, pouring through the Epson 5050UB thread, seriously contemplating spending $4,000 (Canadian with tax) to fix the contrast problem. (Just typing that makes it sound even more ludicrous.) But will the Epson really be good enough? If its contrast is not *substantially* better than the old 8500UB then I would say "No, not good enough." Clearly the 5050UB's dark scene contrast is much better than my still functioning DLP, but digging a little deeper reveals post after post saying that the Epson UB can't hold a candle to a JVC, which isn't nearly as black as an OLED panel. The older generation JVC DLA X790 is yet another $2,000, which puts the total cost for contrast at $6,000. Going full crazy to the "entry level" JVC NX-5 brings me to a mind-numbing $8,000, but sacrifices a bit of contrast. I love watching movies and would really appreciate excellent contrast but at what cost? The whole thing leaves me feeling...
> 
> View attachment 3092250


I assume when you say blacked out room it has no white reflective surfaces and total ambient light control. The 5050ub is close to the same class as the 8500ub and Panasonic. Native contrast a little under 5000:1 so your not going to see a night and day difference. JVC's on the other hand have native contrast at least 40000:1 and if the room is truly light controlled you should see a fair amount of difference.

EDIT: The other qualities of UHD will make the 5050ub a fair step ahead of the other two regardless of the contrast #


----------



## DavidK442

rekbones: Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I think your assessment is bang on.
I see you have both a JVC and a DLP so speaking from experience.
I know the 5050UB has other upgrades that would ease the pain, but ultimately its contrast that is pushing me.
Need to keep my eyes open for a used JVC I guess. Slim pickings in the middle of BC.

Flat black paint, black fabric panels, black velvet around the screen and black carpet on the floor. Light control covered.


----------



## jaredmwright

6050ub user here in light controlled dedicated room. The contrast is impressive with my setup after calibration. I do notice, if I leave the light on like in your picture, it definitely effects the picture and contrast negatively. When lights are out, it is like being at the cinema and I don't miss my OLED at all due to the large format advantages (175" Carl screen) 

Good luck with your decision, I don't think you will be dissapointed for the price at all, worst case you could sell it if you are based on how well they hold value. I was on the fence similar to you and I do not have any buyers remorse. I would like LLDV and DTM, but those two aside I am completely happy with the latest firmware improvements that truly brought out the best in this projector.


----------



## nefrina

DavidK442 said:


> rekbones: Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I think your assessment is bang on.
> I see you have both a JVC and a DLP so speaking from experience.
> I know the 5050UB has other upgrades that would ease the pain, but ultimately its contrast that is pushing me.
> Need to keep my eyes open for a used JVC I guess. Slim pickings in the middle of BC.
> 
> Flat black paint, black fabric panels, black velvet around the screen and black carpet on the floor. Light control covered.
> 
> View attachment 3092286


before you spend thousands on another projector you should seriously consider black velvet screen masking. for me, i could never go back to staring at grey bars. fwiw, there are people with very expensive projectors that still use masking because inky black borders are so hard (impossible) to achieve when you're projecting light across the room to a screen (probably a huge reason many ditch 16:9 and go with a scope screen too). i think that's why i have been okay with my budget projector for so long because not only are my walls & ceiling draped in black velvet, but i use screen masking too. that said, dad just ordered a 6050UB and i can't wait to see how much better it looks versus my 2150..


----------



## bluer101

ShadowBoy said:


> Hey, bluer101. Beautiful theater. May I ask, what are those white panels made out of?


They are a light grey. They are made out of a wood frame wrapped in acoustic DMD fabric. Behind the fabric is different kinds of acoustic material for different levels of absorption. Check out my theater build thread to see the complete build including the fabric frames.


----------



## reechings

bluer101 said:


> They are a light grey. They are made out of a wood frame wrapped in acoustic DMD fabric. Behind the fabric is different kinds of acoustic material for different levels of absorption. Check out my theater build thread to see the complete build including the fabric frames.


I like how your hush box partially blends in to the soffit. I don't have that option so now I have to think of a way to make the box look less imposing and square. Maybe some angled wood or bevels or something.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

DavidK442 said:


> rekbones: Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I think your assessment is bang on.
> I see you have both a JVC and a DLP so speaking from experience.
> I know the 5050UB has other upgrades that would ease the pain, but ultimately its contrast that is pushing me.
> Need to keep my eyes open for a used JVC I guess. Slim pickings in the middle of BC.
> 
> Flat black paint, black fabric panels, black velvet around the screen and black carpet on the floor. Light control covered.
> 
> View attachment 3092286


I think for the cost of the BenQ 3550 you would be amazed at what it can do with UHD content. It is nosey and contrast is fairly poor but I find I actually watch it over my JVC when I have UHD streaming content available. My JVC is one of the earlier Eshift models and I do have an HDfury to make it HDCP 2.2 compliant so with MadVR it trounces the BenQ on local content but with streaming UHD the BenQ wins out most of the time. The 3550 is a great replacement for the older BenQ line even with the supposed lower native contrast. The Epson 5050ub would give you even better contrast then what you have with the UHD benefit on top. I am even considering a 5050ub and selling the other two.


----------



## robley63

bluer101 said:


> Yes it does. I have the sides, top, and back covered with the foam, works great.


Can I ask what foam you used to line the box ?
Thanks


----------



## bluer101

robley63 said:


> Can I ask what foam you used to line the box ?
> Thanks


This is not where I bought mine but you get the idea. My front wall behind the screen is covered with these too. Then I have them in my columns around the room too. You can see them in the photos below. 





Amazon.com: 12 Pack Acoustic Panels Acoustic Foam - Sound Proof Foam Panels, Acoustic Foam Panels Studio Foam Wedges, Sound Absorbing Wall Panels, 12 Pack Soundproof Foam Panels 1" X 12" X 12": Musical Instruments


Buy 12 Pack Acoustic Panels Acoustic Foam - Sound Proof Foam Panels, Acoustic Foam Panels Studio Foam Wedges, Sound Absorbing Wall Panels, 12 Pack Soundproof Foam Panels 1" X 12" X 12": Acoustical Treatments - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## AVTimme

lboe12 said:


> I am getting really bad black level compression artifacts on prime video content. Pixelated and blotchy. Dark scenes look absolutely terrible. I am trying to figure out if it’s just due to streaming or something with the projector. Anybody else have issues with streaming content?


It’s the streaming/media player. Blacks on my Mibox (Android) is just crap crap crap and I use it
With my LG C8 Oled


----------



## ShadowBoy

DavidK442 said:


> rekbones: Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I think your assessment is bang on.
> I see you have both a JVC and a DLP so speaking from experience.
> I know the 5050UB has other upgrades that would ease the pain, but ultimately its contrast that is pushing me.
> Need to keep my eyes open for a used JVC I guess. Slim pickings in the middle of BC.
> 
> Flat black paint, black fabric panels, black velvet around the screen and black carpet on the floor. Light control covered.
> 
> View attachment 3092286


As someone who is still using my Epson 2000 (Epson's first 1080P projector from 2004) until my cinema renovation is complete and I can set up my 6050, I find it hard to believe that there would be issues with the contrast on the 6050. My 2000 throws a great picture and this is 15 year old technology. Is the JVC line better? Undoubtedly. I was considering the JVC N5 (because the N7 was out of my price range), but I was faced with a choice: buy the N5 or....buy the 6050 AND the Panasonic 820 4k player, the Yamaha 3080, and 2 SVS 3000 subs. I demoed both the 6050 and the N5. And the N5 simply wasn't $6000 better than the Epson. The Epson was a big step up from my 2000 and the extra lumens will really help with 3D and having a few lights on in the room if we need it. I think the old adage is true. You may notice differences in side by side comparisons, but once you've made your choice they fade away in everyday viewing. That being said, if you've got the money go for the JVC. But here in Australia, the model released just before the N lines could not be found for love or money. Good luck if you can find a used one, otherwise prepare to dip deep into your bank account. In OZ the N7 is going for between $10,000 and $12,000 depending on sale prices. The N5 hovers just under $10,000. That's a lot of money for a few extra digits of contrast. I find that on certain movies if I look at the black bars, I can see that they are a bit grey. But when I look at the actual picture, the contrast looks fine. Only you can decide if the extra money is worth it. Good luck in whatever you choose.


----------



## hehateme

I just purchased Epson 5050UB. I am replacing a dead Benq W6000. I was hoping to use my existing Chief RPAU mount to mount my new projector
I thought it would be super easy but I found that the screws that attach the flexible legs to the projector are too big. I am having a hard time believing that screws for Chief Universal mount being too big. I have installation video for the mount and screws are easily attached to the projector. Does Epson projector require smaller screws.

Has anyone run into this before? 

Let me know if anyone has any suggestion for me.

Thanks


----------



## PixelPusher15

DavidK442 said:


> rekbones: Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I think your assessment is bang on.
> I see you have both a JVC and a DLP so speaking from experience.
> I know the 5050UB has other upgrades that would ease the pain, but ultimately its contrast that is pushing me.
> Need to keep my eyes open for a used JVC I guess. Slim pickings in the middle of BC.
> 
> Flat black paint, black fabric panels, black velvet around the screen and black carpet on the floor. Light control covered.
> 
> View attachment 3092286


What kind of screen are you using? As far as black levels go, I've noticed a HUGE improvement by going grey and getting a brighter projector. You obviously lose top end brightness so actual contrast isn't improved but perceived contrast does go up a lot IMO. Currently, I have the Epson 4010, and projecting it on a white screen was just straight-up unacceptable. I've combined this with some manual masking bars done with magnets and when I have 2.40:1 content with those black bars it is an amazing image. I imagine a 5050 on a grey screen would provide some amazing black levels. I'm still not 100% happy with my black level performance and I'm thinking about going to the 5050 on a refurb sale or going to an older JVC if I can find one at a good price.


----------



## hehateme

hehateme said:


> I just purchased Epson 5050UB. I am replacing a dead Benq W6000. I was hoping to use my existing Chief RPAU mount to mount my new projector
> I thought it would be super easy but I found that the screws that attach the flexible legs to the projector are too big. I am having a hard time believing that screws for Chief Universal mount being too big. I have installation video for the mount and screws are easily attached to the projector. Does Epson projector require smaller screws.
> 
> Has anyone run into this before?
> 
> Let me know if anyone has any suggestion for me.
> 
> Thanks


My existing Chief Mount looks like the one shown in this video. There are 4 screws that attach the legs to the projector





I found this video showing how to install Epson 6050. It uses a mounting plate that has 9 screws where as my mount only had 4 screws.





Let me know if anyone has any suggestions. There is nothing worse than getting a new projector after 10 years and not being able to mount it :-(


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

hehateme said:


> I just purchased Epson 5050UB. I am replacing a dead Benq W6000. I was hoping to use my existing Chief RPAU mount to mount my new projector
> I thought it would be super easy but I found that the screws that attach the flexible legs to the projector are too big. I am having a hard time believing that screws for Chief Universal mount being too big. I have installation video for the mount and screws are easily attached to the projector. Does Epson projector require smaller screws.
> 
> Has anyone run into this before?
> 
> Let me know if anyone has any suggestion for me.
> 
> Thanks


Yes, i had to purchase new screws for the epson. I also use the chief rpau. Unfortunately i do not remember the correct size.
You need to buy some flat washers to match the screw size, as the screw size is so small, screw head might fall through the leg attachment heads.
The leftover screws i have are 4x16mm and 4mm washers


----------



## hehateme

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Yes, i had to purchase new screws for the epson. I also use the chief rpau. Unfortunately i do not remember the correct size.


Thank you for your response.
Did you use 4 screws or 9 screws?
Based on the video above using 9 screws requires a mounting plate that I don't currently have.
Did you pick up the screws from hardware store or had to buy screws from an AV Theater supply store?

I found that I need M4 screws in case anyone else runs into this.

Chief RPAU claims weight limit of 50 lbs. Just wondering if using much smaller screws will lead to insecure mounting.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Yes, i had to purchase new screws for the epson. I also use the chief rpau. Unfortunately i do not remember the correct size.





hehateme said:


> Thank you for your response.
> Did you use 4 screws or 9 screws?
> Based on the video above using 9 screws requires a mounting plate that I don't currently have.
> Did you pick up the screws from hardware store or had to buy screws from an AV Theater supply store?
> 
> Chief RPAU claims weight limit of 50 lbs. Just wondering if using much smaller screws will lead to insecure mounting.


Standard hardware machine screws. Only 4 legs, just like the sony.. 1 leg screwed to each corner leg hole of epson.
4x16mm with 4mm washers..
I thought it was really flimsy small size, but i trust the epson engineers.
I am unclear if epson usa uses different size than eu for mounting.
I have the tw9400 not the ub6050. 

It is screws that look like this in 4x16mm








Hama Service Kit - skruer til vægbeslag HAMA96064 | Elgiganten


Installer dit TV sikkert og uden komplikationer med Hama Service Kit til TV vægbeslag for Samsung K serien.




www.elgiganten.dk


----------



## nefrina

PixelPusher15 said:


> As far as black levels go, I've noticed a HUGE improvement by going grey and getting a brighter projector.


same. low gain screen & bright projector is like cheating.



PixelPusher15 said:


> I have the Epson 4010, and projecting it on a white screen was just straight-up unacceptable.


agreed. imagine running an even cheaper projector with a positive gain screen..  i remember naively purchasing a 1.0 gain silver ticket screen and it was returned the same day that i opened & installed it...



PixelPusher15 said:


> I've combined this with some manual masking bars done with magnets and when I have 2.40:1 content with those black bars it is an amazing image.


yep. even an average looking picture looks incredible when you have inky black borders next to it. grey bars are extremely distracting and ruin immersion. in fact, it's quite fun to look through setups where people are using projectors that cost magnitudes more than these Epsons, and they still don't have inky black bars bordering what they're watching 



PixelPusher15 said:


> I imagine a 5050 on a grey screen would provide some amazing black levels. I'm still not 100% happy with my black level performance and I'm thinking about going to the 5050 on a refurb sale or going to an older JVC if I can find one at a good price.


a friend of mine has the epson 4000 and i can't see any real difference in picture quality over what i'm using (granted, not many people watch in a basement with all surfaces covered in black velvet either). when i first saw his setup the image was just gross, namely because of his white walls & ceiling (there was a ton of light bouncing around the room), and he was running a positive gain screen. he has since corrected those errors and at least has black velvet around the screen and is now running a negative gain spandex screen and the image is *much* closer to what i see in my room, but i would expect better for what that unit costs. perhaps some of that money differential is going towards things like the motorized lens shift & lens cover, larger/nicer remote, upgraded internals, etc..

fwiw dad has a 6050ub ordered that's being delivered to my house. i'm going to setup both projectors in my room and do back-to-back comparisons. it's a no-brainer that the 6050 will outclass my $700 power-point projector, but i'm really curious to what degree..


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

hehateme said:


> I found this video showing how to install Epson 6050. It uses a mounting plate that has 9 screws where as my mount only had 4 screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know if anyone has any suggestions. There is nothing worse than getting a new projector after 10 years and not being able to mount it :-(


Where the heck do you get that interface plate? I cannot find that for sale anywhere, and it looks a lot more sturdy than the 4xM4 screws i use now,even though i doubt the projector will fall down,it would still be nice to have that interface plate just in case..
Anyone seen this for sale in EU anywhere please leave a reply or DM me..
Thank you


----------



## PixelPusher15

serith said:


> same. low gain screen & bright projector is like cheating.


It so is. I don't know how people are doing white screens in bat caves. I projected a dark scene on the white spandex I had at first and then blocked half the screen at the projector and I could still plainly see the white screen just based on the ambient light floating in the room from the other half the screen. I have dark graphite flat walls, a darker graphite ceiling, and dark rug. Not many reflections at all. 

Do you know what mode your friend had the 4000 in when viewing it? If you aren't running it in Cinema or Digital Cinema then the black levels aren't much better than a $1000 projector. You also aren't getting the phenomenal color reproduction. I'll put it in Natural mode for 16:9 animated movies since the brightness is really nice there, but everything else get's cinema or digital cinema. I had the Epson 3800 in the same room and the 4010 does throw a better image. Better clarity, better blacks, and better color. The 3800 handled HDR better though and has the HDMI 2.0 port. 

I still want my blacks actually black though. I missed the 5050 refurb sale today which I probably would have pulled the trigger on.


----------



## Evolutionize

Hello all,

I finally bit the bullet and picked up a REFURB 5050ub directly from Epson a few weeks ago. Just got around to testing it out last night to make sure everything was up to spec, since I've heard some stories about people having to play roulette with the refurb units. Overall the projector seems to be working well (in my limited 1 night testing), but I had a couple concerns. Teh bulb shows 0 hours but that could have just been a software reset.

Since this is my first big projector purchase I wanted to check in to see if these things are normal, or if I need to look at getting it swapped.

1) The HDMI ports are fairly loose when plugging in, much looser than other devices I've used. The connection seems OK, but curious if other 5050 users have the same feedback.

2) I noticed there appear to be numerous little white 'bubbles' or some kind of dust inside the lens assembly. I tried my best to take a picture of these. They were present in various test scenes, and are down inside the assembly not on the surface of the exterior glass. I don't notice anything on the projected images (like spots or stars), but really haven't put it through its full paces yet. Are these normal or an indication of something off inside the projector?










3) When displaying white or bright text on a dark background there is fairly prevalent white streaking coming from the letters. The same source material does not show these streaks when viewing on a TV or phone. Is this just a drawback of the projector, or is there something wrong with it?

















Thanks in advance for any help, I'm excited to expand into the world of projection for my dedicated room and want to make sure I get off on the right foot with a good unit!

Chris


----------



## RRF

Evolutionize said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I finally bit the bullet and picked up a REFURB 5050ub directly from Epson a few weeks ago. Just got around to testing it out last night to make sure everything was up to spec, since I've heard some stories about people having to play roulette with the refurb units. Overall the projector seems to be working well (in my limited 1 night testing), but I had a couple concerns. Teh bulb shows 0 hours but that could have just been a software reset.
> Thanks in advance for any help, I'm excited to expand into the world of projection for my dedicated room and want to make sure I get off on the right foot with a good unit!
> Chris
> View attachment 3092932


That does not look good to me. I know I would return it, rather than be disappointed every day.

You can check the hours by entering the Service Menu..._but I'm not sure if those can be reset by the factory._
Hold down the Menu button for ~8 seconds and then press ESC twice


----------



## reechings

Evolutionize said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I finally bit the bullet and picked up a REFURB 5050ub directly from Epson a few weeks ago. Just got around to testing it out last night to make sure everything was up to spec, since I've heard some stories about people having to play roulette with the refurb units. Overall the projector seems to be working well (in my limited 1 night testing), but I had a couple concerns. Teh bulb shows 0 hours but that could have just been a software reset.
> 
> Since this is my first big projector purchase I wanted to check in to see if these things are normal, or if I need to look at getting it swapped.
> 
> 1) The HDMI ports are fairly loose when plugging in, much looser than other devices I've used. The connection seems OK, but curious if other 5050 users have the same feedback.
> 
> 2) I noticed there appear to be numerous little white 'bubbles' or some kind of dust inside the lens assembly. I tried my best to take a picture of these. They were present in various test scenes, and are down inside the assembly not on the surface of the exterior glass. I don't notice anything on the projected images (like spots or stars), but really haven't put it through its full paces yet. Are these normal or an indication of something off inside the projector?
> 
> View attachment 3092932
> 
> 
> 3) When displaying white or bright text on a dark background there is fairly prevalent white streaking coming from the letters. The same source material does not show these streaks when viewing on a TV or phone. Is this just a drawback of the projector, or is there something wrong with it?
> 
> View attachment 3092938
> View attachment 3092939
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help, I'm excited to expand into the world of projection for my dedicated room and want to make sure I get off on the right foot with a good unit!
> 
> Chris
> 
> View attachment 3092932
> View attachment 3092932


I don't have a 5050 but the lenses looks similar on my 3100 and on my previous Optoma too. If you don't see defects on the screen you should be fine. The white streaks around white letters may be just a limitation of the projector but someone else can chime in on that.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## vlayton

Just tossing this out. I've had the 5050 for 3 months and still using my old 106" DaLite .8 gain "high contrast" grey screen. Figured I'd be upgrading to a positive gain white screen but so far I've been quite happy with the old screen. Plenty bright in mostly light controlled room using Digital Cinema mode. Just need to do something about cat paw prints. Screen has been attacked during Kitten Bowl and NBA games over the years.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

vlayton said:


> Just tossing this out. I've had the 5050 for 3 months and still using my old 106" DaLite .8 gain "high contrast" grey screen. Figured I'd be upgrading to a positive gain white screen but so far I've been quite happy with the old screen. Plenty bright in mostly light controlled room using Digital Cinema mode. Just need to do something about cat paw prints. Screen has been attacked during Kitten Bowl and NBA games over the years.


I'm in a dark colored light controlled room with a 120in elite cinegray with a 5050ub and I like it but you can see a shimmer and some streaks during certain scenes I guess when they apply the coating I'm switching to a seymour av glacier white screen 135in hope I don't regret not getting the gray but everthing I've read for my setup the white should give a better picture. I got my tracking # today says should be delivered by Friday 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## msheikh25

biglen said:


> If the house is being built, ask the contractor if there is room on the back wall, where you want the projector, to build a box in the wall, to put the projector in. That will get you closer to a 120" image. My room was on the smaller size too, so I built a box in the wall. I have a fan built into the side of the box, that pulls the hot air out, so I was able to add that front panel, to make it quiet when the projector is on. It never gets above 80° in the box.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


What are the dimensions of the box you built? I have gone back and forth with the idea of building a box. Few things that I was hung up on was size incase I need to upgrade in the future (but I'm thinking the 5050ub is probably as big as they get). Also the possibility of shortening the life of the projector because of excessive heat but sounds like you have remedied that with the fan. I also have a beam obstructing the view/path of the projector hanging down about 13" (see picture). If I get a box built, I have to be certain that it is low enough to clear that and still be able to project the screen size I'm looking for. By mounting it I would have the flexibility to play around with an adjustable mount to keep it as high as possible. My room is 17'5" in length so if I get a box built, I can go with a 158" scope screen instead of 142".


----------



## biglen

msheikh25 said:


> What are the dimensions of the box you built? I have gone back and forth with the idea of building a box. Few things that I was hung up on was size incase I need to upgrade in the future (but I'm thinking the 5050ub is probably as big as they get). Also the possibility of shortening the life of the projector because of excessive heat but sounds like you have remedied that with the fan. I also have a beam obstructing the view/path of the projector hanging down about 13" (see picture). If I get a box built, I have to be certain that it is low enough to clear that and still be able to project the screen size I'm looking for. By mounting it I would have the flexibility to play around with an adjustable mount to keep it as high as possible. My room is 17'5" in length so if I get a box built, I can go with a 158" scope screen instead of 142".
> View attachment 3092991


The box is 30"W x 14"H x 20"D. There's tons of room in there. The bottom of the box is 72" from the ground, so I'd think the beam wouldn't be in the way. Make sure you install an exhaust fan, like I did. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## hehateme

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Where the heck do you get that interface plate? I cannot find that for sale anywhere, and it looks a lot more sturdy than the 4xM4 screws i use now,even though i doubt the projector will fall down,it would still be nice to have that interface plate just in case..
> Anyone seen this for sale in EU anywhere please leave a reply or DM me..
> Thank you


First, Thank you for your help. I was able to mount the projector.

Interface plate is a part of an expensive $300 Chief Mount
It is CHF4000 mount








Epson CHF4000 Universal Projector Ceiling Mount


Buy Epson CHF4000 Universal Projector Ceiling Mount featuring Compatible with Most Inverted Projectors. Review Epson F4000




www.bhphotovideo.com


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

hehateme said:


> First, Thank you for your help. I was able to mount the projector.
> 
> Interface plate is a part of an expensive $300 Chief Mount
> It is CHF4000 mount
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson CHF4000 Universal Projector Ceiling Mount
> 
> 
> Buy Epson CHF4000 Universal Projector Ceiling Mount featuring Compatible with Most Inverted Projectors. Review Epson F4000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.bhphotovideo.com


So not purchasable alone or in Europe.. Better trust the puny 4mm screws then and hope i won't get the projector in my head, as it is mounted directly above mlp


----------



## PixelPusher15

Well.....I'm joining the 5050 club! Some may have seen my posts around here agonizing over which PJ to end up with and the refurb 5050 deal by Epson finally did it for me. I feel like this was always going to be my home 😊


----------



## RVD26

PixelPusher15 said:


> Well.....I'm joining the 5050 club! Some may have seen my posts around here agonizing over which PJ to end up with and the refurb 5050 deal by Epson finally did it for me. I feel like this was always going to be my home 😊


Congrats! I too picked up a refurb recently and joined the 5050 club. This will be my first PJ ever. Haven't had a chance to install it yet and won't for another 2-3 months until the new house is completed. Welcome to the club!


----------



## Evolutionize

PixelPusher15 said:


> Well.....I'm joining the 5050 club! Some may have seen my posts around here agonizing over which PJ to end up with and the refurb 5050 deal by Epson finally did it for me. I feel like this was always going to be my home 😊





RVD26 said:


> Congrats! I too picked up a refurb recently and joined the 5050 club. This will be my first PJ ever. Haven't had a chance to install it yet and won't for another 2-3 months until the new house is completed. Welcome to the club!


Hey guys, I'm right there with you, picked up a REFURB 5050 last week from Epson. I posted a few messages ago in the thread during initial testing when I noticed a bunch of small specs/bubbles inside the lens assembly, as well as some vertical streaking with white text on black background. I would REALLY appreciate it if you guys could take a look at your units and see if you have the same thing. I'm not sure if they're defects, or just part of this projector.

Here's my post, thanks a ton in advance I'm really looking for some feedback from other owners, both refurb and new. 








THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)


I just purchased Epson 5050UB. I am replacing a dead Benq W6000. I was hoping to use my existing Chief RPAU mount to mount my new projector I thought it would be super easy but I found that the screws that attach the flexible legs to the projector are too big. I am having a hard time believing...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## RVD26

Evolutionize said:


> Hey guys, I'm right there with you, picked up a REFURB 5050 last week from Epson. I posted a few messages ago in the thread during initial testing when I noticed a bunch of small specs/bubbles inside the lens assembly, as well as some vertical streaking with white text on black background. I would REALLY appreciate it if you guys could take a look at your units and see if you have the same thing. I'm not sure if they're defects, or just part of this projector.
> 
> Here's my post, thanks a ton in advance I'm really looking for some feedback from other owners, both refurb and new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)
> 
> 
> I just purchased Epson 5050UB. I am replacing a dead Benq W6000. I was hoping to use my existing Chief RPAU mount to mount my new projector I thought it would be super easy but I found that the screws that attach the flexible legs to the projector are too big. I am having a hard time believing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


I would swap it for another one if I were you. I think someone else said it didn't look normal. Like I said before, I won't be installing mine for another few months so I can't test it now.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Evolutionize said:


> Hey guys, I'm right there with you, picked up a REFURB 5050 last week from Epson. I posted a few messages ago in the thread during initial testing when I noticed a bunch of small specs/bubbles inside the lens assembly, as well as some vertical streaking with white text on black background. I would REALLY appreciate it if you guys could take a look at your units and see if you have the same thing. I'm not sure if they're defects, or just part of this projector.
> 
> Here's my post, thanks a ton in advance I'm really looking for some feedback from other owners, both refurb and new.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)
> 
> 
> I just purchased Epson 5050UB. I am replacing a dead Benq W6000. I was hoping to use my existing Chief RPAU mount to mount my new projector I thought it would be super easy but I found that the screws that attach the flexible legs to the projector are too big. I am having a hard time believing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


the streaking on the white text looks to be 100% a defect. I currently have a refurb 4010 which shares the same lens but different panels. I’ve got a little bit of dust on the lens but I’m not seeing any of that streaking on the image.


----------



## Sfay93

Evolutionize said:


> Hey guys, I'm right there with you, picked up a REFURB 5050 last week from Epson. I posted a few messages ago in the thread during initial testing when I noticed a bunch of small specs/bubbles inside the lens assembly, as well as some vertical streaking with white text on black background. I would REALLY appreciate it if you guys could take a look at your units and see if you have the same thing. I'm not sure if they're defects, or just part of this projector.


I also got one of the refurbs and I do not see any streaking. Agree, you're going to have to send it back. Here's a shot from mine just now:









Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## martinstraka8282

I don't know what their process looks like these days, but I had to get my 8500UB swapped twice back in the day and the process was amazing compared to some others.

They sent me a new one with a new bulb in it and told me to pack my old one back in the box and send it back.

Never heard from them again other than confirming they received it and the exchange was complete.

If that's still how they handle it, I'd be requesting an exchange for sure.


----------



## Rob Greer

This is what it looks like when a pipe in your attic freezes and then breaks directly over your home theater projector (Epson 6050) because the state of Texas is stupid and refuses to join the regulated east/west grid￼ and yet can’t generate enough power leaving millions (like me) without power for days with temperatures dropping to the low teens.


----------



## Luminated67

Rob Greer said:


> View attachment 3093470
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like when a pipe in your attic freezes and then breaks directly over your home theater projector (Epson 6050) because the state of Texas is stupid and refuses to join the regulated east/west grid￼ and yet can’t generate enough power leaving millions (like me) without power for days with temperatures dropping to the low teens.


I feel your pain, hopefully everything is insured but it’s the hassle and inconvenience of getting it sorted.


----------



## Baron5

Rob Greer said:


> View attachment 3093470
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like when a pipe in your attic freezes and then breaks directly over your home theater projector (Epson 6050) because the state of Texas is stupid and refuses to join the regulated east/west grid￼ and yet can’t generate enough power leaving millions (like me) without power for days with temperatures dropping to the low teens.


Noooo! Man, that sucks. I'd be pissed too. I've seen the Texas power issues all over the news as well as Ted Cruz kicking back in Mexico during the emergency. What a mess.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Rob Greer said:


> View attachment 3093470
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like when a pipe in your attic freezes and then breaks directly over your home theater projector (Epson 6050) because the state of Texas is stupid and refuses to join the regulated east/west grid￼ and yet can’t generate enough power leaving millions (like me) without power for days with temperatures dropping to the low teens.


And here i thought America was a 1st world country... And is it really Texas that is stupid? Or the voters who elect politicians who "dont like the federal government meddling in its affairs"?
Can't you sue for damages from the Texas government? I seem to recall reading litigation being the nr.1 passtime in America..

I truly feel for you as i would be devasted if this happened to me..


----------



## Zedekias

Rob Greer said:


> View attachment 3093470
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like when a pipe in your attic freezes and then breaks directly over your home theater projector (Epson 6050) because the state of Texas is stupid and refuses to join the regulated east/west grid￼ and yet can’t generate enough power leaving millions (like me) without power for days with temperatures dropping to the low teens.


Ugh. I feel for you. That's terrible. Hopefully Texas can get it together asap. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## bluer101

Rob Greer said:


> This is what it looks like when a pipe in your attic freezes and then breaks directly over your home theater projector (Epson 6050) because the state of Texas is stupid and refuses to join the regulated east/west grid￼ and yet can’t generate enough power leaving millions (like me) without power for days with temperatures dropping to the low teens.


That’s sucks, hope you have insurance.


----------



## RVD26

Rob Greer said:


> View attachment 3093470
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like when a pipe in your attic freezes and then breaks directly over your home theater projector (Epson 6050) because the state of Texas is stupid and refuses to join the regulated east/west grid￼ and yet can’t generate enough power leaving millions (like me) without power for days with temperatures dropping to the low teens.


I live in the Houston area and it's been a hell of a week. Thankfully, I was able to avoid any burst pipes. Sorry this happened to you and hope you can get everything replaced.


----------



## Evolutionize

I really appreciate you guys getting back with me quickly, and the feedback. I'll be reaching out to Epson today to arrange a replacement since I just received this one in the past 10 days and its seems like I got a dud. Hopefully they are as responsive as I've heard (and martinstraka mentioned) and they can send me a better unit quickly.

Thanks again, I look forward to posting some images with a fully functional projector and completed theater!



RRF said:


> That does not look good to me. I know I would return it, rather than be disappointed every day.
> 
> You can check the hours by entering the Service Menu..._but I'm not sure if those can be reset by the factory._
> Hold down the Menu button for ~8 seconds and then press ESC twice





reechings said:


> I don't have a 5050 but the lenses looks similar on my 3100 and on my previous Optoma too. If you don't see defects on the screen you should be fine. The white streaks around white letters may be just a limitation of the projector but someone else can chime in on that.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk





RVD26 said:


> I would swap it for another one if I were you. I think someone else said it didn't look normal. Like I said before, I won't be installing mine for another few months so I can't test it now.





PixelPusher15 said:


> the streaking on the white text looks to be 100% a defect. I currently have a refurb 4010 which shares the same lens but different panels. I’ve got a little bit of dust on the lens but I’m not seeing any of that streaking on the image.





Sfay93 said:


> I also got one of the refurbs and I do not see any streaking. Agree, you're going to have to send it back. Here's a shot from mine just now:
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk





martinstraka8282 said:


> I don't know what their process looks like these days, but I had to get my 8500UB swapped twice back in the day and the process was amazing compared to some others.
> 
> They sent me a new one with a new bulb in it and told me to pack my old one back in the box and send it back.
> 
> Never heard from them again other than confirming they received it and the exchange was complete.
> 
> If that's still how they handle it, I'd be requesting an exchange for sure.


----------



## Evolutionize

Rob Greer said:


> This is what it looks like when a pipe in your attic freezes and then breaks directly over your home theater projector (Epson 6050) because the state of Texas is stupid and refuses to join the regulated east/west grid￼ and yet can’t generate enough power leaving millions (like me) without power for days with temperatures dropping to the low teens.


Aww man that is horrible to see. I've seen all the news coverage of Texas, people sleeping in their cars and retail stores trying to stay warm, and now theater destruction. I hope you can get it sorted out with your insurance quickly, although i'm sure that going to be quite the mess for a while down there as well. 

Hopefully you have better luck than I did, years back a city sewer line collapsed under the street and consequently diverted the entire subdivision's sewage up into my finished basement for about 12 hours. Had to tear everything out, walls and all, and throw away all belongings that it came in contact with since it flooded up about three feet with raw nastiness. It took me nearly 3 years and 2 lawyers/lawsuits to finally get a payout from the insurance, and even then it didn't cover the full cost of the replacement and rebuild. 

Here's hoping you have better luck since it affected such a large group of people!


----------



## rkihara

I bought an Amazon Fire Stick 4k as a replacement for an 4th Gen Apple TV and I can't get a decent picture. Everything is too dark and low in contrast. All of my other devices (Apple TV, DVR, Blu-ray) look fine on the Epson. There was some improvement whenI set the Fire Stick HDR to Dynamic, and a little more when I went from HDR to SDR, but the picture was still not good. Can I get this to work or should I return the Fire Stick?


----------



## Evolutionize

rkihara said:


> I bought an Amazon Fire Stick 4k as a replacement for an 4th Gen Apple TV and I can't get a decent picture. Everything is too dark and low in contrast. All of my other devices (Apple TV, DVR, Blu-ray) look fine on the Epson. There was some improvement whenI set the Fire Stick HDR to Dynamic, and a little more when I went from HDR to SDR, but the picture was still not good. Can I get this to work or should I return the Fire Stick?


Interestingly enough on my living room 4K TV we used to have a FireTV device and switched to a Roku Ultra when it died. For the most part everything looked the same, but we noticed Disney+ specifically was much darker and muted in color on the Roku than when we used the FireTV. This occurred on some Netflix shows as well. We compared with another TV in the house that had a Firestick and confirmed that the Roku was indeed outputting a more muted and lower contrast picture.

However, in testing my recently acquired 5050 I hooked up a Firestick4k and had the same experience you did, the picture seemed overly dark and lacked contrast for streaming services. I did not do any calibrating only testing, and I'm going to be sending my unit back for other issues, so just assumed it was related, but I wonder if there is an HDR setting or similar that must be causing it since the same thing does not happen when we use the Firestick on a TV. I'm sure someone in here is using a FireTV device with their 5050 and can chime in.


----------



## reechings

Man those refurbs are really trying to tempt me, added to the cart but decided I shouldn't quite do it yet.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Evolutionize said:


> Interestingly enough on my living room 4K TV we used to have a FireTV device and switched to a Roku Ultra when it died. For the most part everything looked the same, but we noticed Disney+ specifically was much darker and muted in color on the Roku than when we used the FireTV. This occurred on some Netflix shows as well. We compared with another TV in the house that had a Firestick and confirmed that the Roku was indeed outputting a more muted and lower contrast picture.
> 
> However, in testing my recently acquired 5050 I hooked up a Firestick4k and had the same experience you did, the picture seemed overly dark and lacked contrast for streaming services. I did not do any calibrating only testing, and I'm going to be sending my unit back for other issues, so just assumed it was related, but I wonder if there is an HDR setting or similar that must be causing it since the same thing does not happen when we use the Firestick on a TV. I'm sure someone in here is using a FireTV device with their 5050 and can chime in.


Try the HDR slider. When I was testing the 3800 I never used the default setting, was always too dim. 

I think to unlock HDR on a projector we really need a Vertex2 or Diva to get LLDV for dynamic tone mapping. I just got one delivered to use with the 4010 but it will be going back because I can't eat the cost now that I upgraded to the 5050.


----------



## Fj40jason

My CHF4000 mount is MIA with Fedex delivery.
I have the screen built and and wanted to hang it to watch some movies on the 5050 this weekend maybe from a table or something.

Should I wait to hang the screen until the PJ is mounted to avoid "keystone"?
Or is there enough lens adjustment to center the PJ on the screen later when the screen is already in a fixed location?
14'x21' room with 9' ceiling
138" 2.35:1
Thanks!


----------



## rkihara

Evolutionize said:


> . . . . in testing my recently acquired 5050 I hooked up a Firestick4k and had the same experience you did, the picture seemed overly dark and lacked contrast for streaming services. I did not do any calibrating only testing, and I'm going to be sending my unit back for other issues, so just assumed it was related, but I wonder if there is an HDR setting or similar that must be causing it since the same thing does not happen when we use the Firestick on a TV. I'm sure someone in here is using a FireTV device with their 5050 and can chime in.


Thanks for your input! I think it might work better on a TV, since I think they have video AGC which equalizes brightness levels, while projectors don't. I've tried adjusting all of the HDR settings of the Firestick and the Epson to no avail. I feel I shouldn't have to make major adjustments since all my other sources look fine. Dark pictures are a common complaint in the Amazon reviews, so unless there's a simple solution, I'm returning the Firestick.


----------



## rkihara

PixelPusher15 said:


> Try the HDR slider. When I was testing the 3800 I never used the default setting, was always too dim.
> 
> I think to unlock HDR on a projector we really need a Vertex2 or Diva to get LLDV for dynamic tone mapping. . . .


The Firestick has a dynamic tone mapping option, but it didn't help that much. I'll try the slider.


----------



## Jmouse007

Rob Greer said:


> Awww, ( man, my wife and I want you to know how very sorry we are for you and your family. We have a new Epson 6050 UB, that we absolutely love and, living in NH (it is snowing even as I write) it broke our hearts to see your photo.
> 
> This really hurts. We know how much love, sweat and $ went into building your HT.
> 
> On the up side, Lord willing you have great home insurance that will allow you to recover and "upgrade" some of your damaged equipment. That is what happened to us when our home was destroyed by a 20 minute golf ball, tennis ball sized hail storm (including breaking all SIX sky lights..., and then it RAINED for over an hour!)
> 
> It took us one week less than a year to complete all of the repairs. And when all was said and done, our HT ended up better than it had ever been! Hopefully this becomes your situation as well.
> 
> We want you to know that people here on AVS care... I hope this brings you and your family some comfort.
> 
> Yes it was very painful, but we got through it.


----------



## gunlife

.


----------



## Tokodboy

Is 6050UB store picture settings in different slots based on the sifgnal type (RGB and YUV)?
I mean that if I send an RGB signal to the projector and adjust Natural mode like change contrast to 48 from 50 and I change the input signal to YCbCr 4:4:4 than the natural picture mode will remember my contrast 48 settings or it will be 50?

Some benq projectors handle differently of RGB and YUV signals and both for the RGB and YUV signal it has the same picture modes but in different slots. Ie for RGB and YUV signals it has the same picture mode called the same ie Cinema in both but it store different values in it based on the signal type.


----------



## Luminated67

^You can store up to 10 preset picture mode settings all different so shouldn’t be an issue unless you needed even more.


----------



## vlayton

gunlife said:


> I come here to get away from politics... But before anyone blames Texas they should read The Department of Energy Order No. 202-21-1. Basically the Feds told them they couldn't turn the power plants up if they weren't green ( the wind mills were frozen ).
> t/QUOTE]
> 
> If political posts are allowed, I feel I must respond to "gunlife"'s claims. I suggest both these posts be removed. Peace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VERIFY: Energy Department gave Texas an emergency OK to exceed pollution limits
> 
> 
> Claims online say that the US Energy Department denied requests from Texas’ electricity distributor to operate at maximum levels. The claims are not true.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.kvue.com


----------



## Tokodboy

Luminated67 said:


> ^You can store up to 10 preset picture mode settings all different so shouldn’t be an issue unless you needed even more.


N I dont want much presets 

Usually I do calibration with RGB signal and I recognized if the projector doesn't store different preset on different signal types than the calibration os good with YCbCr signal too.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Looks like I lost the Epson quality control lottery on my 5050 refurb. Just checking to see if anyone else has seen these weird blue bands bafore. It appears in a lot of content, not just on blue stuff, but this Disney splash screen shows it best. Anyone get this before? I've tried a couple different HDMI cables but I don't think it's that since I've used this setup for perfect 4k 60hz HDR transmission with other projectors. I also tried only sending 4K SDR and that didn't do anything.

I'm pretty sure there's something seriously wrong with this one though. It's flashed to black a few times for apparently no reason and during transitions or refresh rate changes half the screen will show up black and the other half will do some glitchy thing. I have the ATV playing it's screen savers in the background right now and when it changed scenes half the screen went black.


----------



## Zedekias

PixelPusher15 said:


> Looks like I lost the Epson quality control lottery on my 5050 refurb. Just checking to see if anyone else has seen these weird blue bands bafore. It appears in a lot of content, not just on blue stuff, but this Disney splash screen shows it best. Anyone get this before? I've tried a couple different HDMI cables but I don't think it's that since I've used this setup for perfect 4k 60hz HDR transmission with other projectors. I also tried only sending 4K SDR and that didn't do anything.
> 
> I'm pretty sure there's something seriously wrong with this one though. It's flashed to black a few times for apparently no reason and during transitions or refresh rate changes half the screen will show up black and the other half will do some glitchy thing. I have the ATV playing it's screen savers in the background right now and when it changed scenes half the screen went black.
> View attachment 3094193
> 
> View attachment 3094196


I have not seen that before. I would send those pictures to epson.

FYI my first two suggestions are always Mandalorian and Mickey Mouse Clubhouse as well. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## kirtis_mcleskey

has anyone here went from the EPSON 5030ub to the EPSON 6050ub ? I am considering upgrading my projector..... I have been a very happy camper with my 5030ub, but I would love an even better picture 

I have not seen a pixel shift or a 4k projector before in person. 

Does epson have any projectors coming out soon that I should hold off for instead of getting the 6050 now?


----------



## RVD26

PixelPusher15 said:


> Looks like I lost the Epson quality control lottery on my 5050 refurb. Just checking to see if anyone else has seen these weird blue bands bafore. It appears in a lot of content, not just on blue stuff, but this Disney splash screen shows it best. Anyone get this before? I've tried a couple different HDMI cables but I don't think it's that since I've used this setup for perfect 4k 60hz HDR transmission with other projectors. I also tried only sending 4K SDR and that didn't do anything.
> 
> I'm pretty sure there's something seriously wrong with this one though. It's flashed to black a few times for apparently no reason and during transitions or refresh rate changes half the screen will show up black and the other half will do some glitchy thing. I have the ATV playing it's screen savers in the background right now and when it changed scenes half the screen went black.
> View attachment 3094193
> 
> View attachment 3094196


How long does Epson allow you to swap out refurbs? I still haven't taken mine out of the box and won't for another couple of months until my home is completed.
Just hoping I can still swap mine out later if there's a defect.


----------



## Evolutionize

RVD26 said:


> How long does Epson allow you to swap out refurbs? I still haven't taken mine out of the box and won't for another couple of months until my home is completed.
> Just hoping I can still swap mine out later if there's a defect.


The refurb i purchased came with a 2 year Epson warranty, so i'd assume yours is the same. That being said, my room is also not yet completed (at drywall phase) but I opened the projector and temporarily hooked it up to test. And I'm glad I did, as I mentioned previously in this thread it appears defective so I've filed a claim with Epson to replace it. Im waiting on their reply. 

You should be fine for 2 years, but if possible I'd recommend at least taking it out and temporarily testing it to rule out any issues like myself and Pixelpusher have had right out of the box.


----------



## RVD26

Evolutionize said:


> The refurb i purchased came with a 2 year Epson warranty, so i'd assume yours is the same. That being said, my room is also not yet completed (at drywall phase) but I opened the projector and temporarily hooked it up to test. And I'm glad I did, as I mentioned previously in this thread it appears defective so I've filed a claim with Epson to replace it. Im waiting on their reply.
> 
> You should be fine for 2 years, but if possible I'd recommend at least taking it out and temporarily testing it to rule out any issues like myself and Pixelpusher have had right out of the box.


I would, but I don't have a screen to test it out against.


----------



## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> I would, but I don't have a screen to test it out against.


Do you have a light colored wall? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

Well I got my seymour av 135in glacier white screen with the precision frame. It blows the elite cinegray away it seems like the image has way more depth and the colors just pop. I was so worried about the blacks but that is not a issue at all the 5050ub looks outstanding with this screen.
















Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Interesting and good to hear. Did you notice an increase in black levels and the rest of the image it’s just better? Or is that screen just that good?

I’m still trying to understand how white screens do well anywhere. I can see the whole grey screen in my bat cave even when I block out half the projected image. I don’t get how any white screen wouldn’t be more noticeable. 🤔

I’ma screen newb though and have only had cheap painted drywall, a white $300 Elite Screen and now spandex


----------



## RVD26

PixelPusher15 said:


> Do you have a light colored wall?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not really. We have tan painted ceilings and light brown/red colored walls.


----------



## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> Not really. We have tan painted ceilings and light brown/red colored walls.


Got a white bed sheet?

If not, Walmart sells them for $10. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Cacitems4sale

On my 6050 I experienced some flickering 3 times and also static appearance on screen 2 times when watching YouTube tonight. I noticed this happened once a few nights ago when watching YouTube. I am using medium mode and am only at 116 hours on the bulb. Any concerns I should have and any troubleshooting steps I should try? Again, it was just a handful of times and only with YouTube so far.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

PixelPusher15 said:


> Interesting and good to hear. Did you notice an increase in black levels and the rest of the image it’s just better? Or is that screen just that good?
> 
> I’m still trying to understand how white screens do well anywhere. I can see the whole grey screen in my bat cave even when I block out half the projected image. I don’t get how any white screen wouldn’t be more noticeable.
> 
> I’ma screen newb though and have only had cheap painted drywall, a white $300 Elite Screen and now spandex


No the blacks look awesome but my room is light controlled and painted properly too but even the quality of materials that the screen and frame are made from is exceptional. Before I would use natural with the cinegary screen with the white screen I can run on digital cinema and I still have plenty of brightness and thats on medium for everything

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Brandon Kozuszek said:


> No the blacks look awesome but my room is light controlled and painted properly too but even the quality of materials that the screen and frame are made from is exceptional. Before I would use natural with the cinegary screen with the white screen I can run on digital cinema and I still have plenty of brightness and thats on medium for everything
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I'm on MEDIUM, too, with my white unity gain screen and I use Digital Cinema almost 100% of the time. My room is completely light controlled and the screen wall and ceiling are painted black (the other three walls are dark gray). The 5050 was calibrated subjectively with the Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc. My prior screen was a gray Firehawk 1.2 gain. I have no regrets. Stewart recommended that I go with white 1.0. I think they were spot on. Colors pop better, contrast is excellent. No black crush unless the source is of poor quality. Blooming is still apparent though but not distractingly so. Overall going with a white 1.0 was the most significant improvement in my image quality since I got the projector. Even more so than using the Panasonic 820 to replace my Oppo BDP93 for standard HD bluray.


----------



## Evolutionize

RVD26 said:


> I would, but I don't have a screen to test it out against.





PixelPusher15 said:


> Do you have a light colored wall?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't have a screen yet either so I just used a wall for the initial testing to rule out any major obvious problems. My wall was a medium gray/blue, and I was able to pinpoint a blurring/streaking problem with the image even using that, so its going back. Like Pixel said you could always toss up a cheap sheet or shower curtain for a rudimentary test.

Worst case you can wait it out and just file under the 2 year warranty if you have a problem, I just figured in my case I wanted to rule out any blatant issues right away to hopefully streamline getting sent a replacement.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

fredworld said:


> I'm on MEDIUM, too, with my white unity gain screen and I use Digital Cinema almost 100% of the time. My room is completely light controlled and the screen wall and ceiling are painted black (the other three walls are dark gray). The 5050 was calibrated subjectively with the Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc. My prior screen was a gray Firehawk 1.2 gain. I have no regrets. Stewart recommended that I go with white 1.0. I think they were spot on. Colors pop better, contrast is excellent. No black crush unless the source is of poor quality. Blooming is still apparent though but not distractingly so. Overall going with a white 1.0 was the most significant improvement in my image quality since I got the projector. Even more so than using the Panasonic 820 to replace my Oppo BDP93 for standard HD bluray.


Yaeh I havnt messed with the settings at all except the hdr slider. I checked into stewart screens and seymour is kinda in the middle as far as the budget friendly and the high end screens go but yes white is the way the go if you want the best color fidelity and brightness 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Evolutionize said:


> I don't have a screen yet either so I just used a wall for the initial testing to rule out any major obvious problems. My wall was a medium gray/blue, and I was able to pinpoint a blurring/streaking problem with the image even using that, so its going back. Like Pixel said you could always toss up a cheap sheet or shower curtain for a rudimentary test.
> 
> Worst case you can wait it out and just file under the 2 year warranty if you have a problem, I just figured in my case I wanted to rule out any blatant issues right away to hopefully streamline getting sent a replacement.


My advice is not to wait to try out the projector. The 2 year warranty is ticking. If a replacement is needed, the replacement's warranty is only for the balance of the original warranty.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

Brandon Kozuszek said:


> Yaeh I havnt messed with the settings at all except the hdr slider. I checked into stewart screens and seymour is kinda in the middle as far as the budget friendly and the high end screens go but yes white is the way the go if you want the best color fidelity and brightness
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


What do you mean blooming or is it hot spots

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Brandon Kozuszek said:


> What do you mean blooming or is it hot spots
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Not hot spots. Blooming is when, say for instance, there's a lamp in a scene. The scene is evenly lit with colors well saturated and contrast shows discernible shadow details. Overall the scene looks to be well balanced but that lamp has a soft glow around it. Sometimes indoor scenes with daylight coming through a window will have a soft glow around the window frame from the outside light. In other words, the light from sources within a scene don't look entirely natural. Flashlights are another culprit. White letters in credits can "bloom" but then as they begin to fade out, before displaying the next credit, the fading minimizes the bloom and the letters take on a more crisp appearance but the new white lettered credit reestablishes the bloom and the process repeats. I think it's a byproduct of LCDs.


----------



## Fj40jason

rollon1980 said:


> By popular request! If you want, you can use the gamma curve from the previous setting if that works better for you. But I recommend you give this curve a go first. It reduces blooming and provides better shadow detail. This gamma will look less like a flat panel I’m afraid but it’s what Epson’s tone mapping is expecting.
> 
> Dynamic HDR v2
> (more accurate greyscale and gamma)
> 
> picture mode: dynamic
> Color temp: 7
> Skin tone: 4
> Custom color temp:
> Offset R: 49
> Offset G: 49
> Offset B: 49
> (Decrease offsets to 48 of you have a movie with elevated blacks. 49 provides a good compromise with most content)
> Gain R: 50
> Gain G: 40 (!!!!!!!!!!)
> Gain B: 50
> 
> Grayscale:
> 8 0:0:0
> 7 22:-11:0
> 6 7:0:0
> 5 -1:0:-2
> 4 -5:0:-5
> 3 -5:0:-3
> 2 -3:0:-2
> 1 0:0:0
> 
> Gamma: custom
> Custom points:
> 1: 0
> 2: -3 (change from -3 to -4 or -5 according to preference for near black gamma)
> 3: -3
> 4: -4
> 5: -5
> 6: -6
> 7: -8
> 8: -16
> 9: 0
> 
> 
> RGBCMY:
> R: 60:37:42
> G: 55:35:47
> B:60:34:53
> 😄 0:45:35
> M: 60:49:36
> Y: 58:50:48
> 
> High Lamp / medium lamp works too
> 
> HDR slider: Double what you use for Digital Cinema. if you are using 2 under DC then use 4 for Dynamic! If you use 4 for DC, use 8 here.
> 
> Dynamic iris: NORMAL if using offsets at 48
> High speed is ok if using offsets at 49.
> (Best to switch it off and let the lamp warm up for 5mins before movie starts then switch it back on for movie)


Still learning this PJ. Thank you for the calibration setting. It looks great!


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

fredworld said:


> Not hot spots. Blooming is when, say for instance, there's a lamp in a scene. The scene is evenly lit with colors well saturated and contrast shows discernible shadow details. Overall the scene looks to be well balanced but that lamp has a soft glow around it. Sometimes indoor scenes with daylight coming through a window will have a soft glow around the window frame from the outside light. In other words, the light from sources within a scene don't look entirely natural. Flashlights are another culprit. White letters in credits can "bloom" but then as they begin to fade out, before displaying the next credit, the fading minimizes the bloom and the letters take on a more crisp appearance but the new white lettered credit reestablishes the bloom and the process repeats. I think it's a byproduct of LCDs.


Ok I understand I don't notice anything like that on mine 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Does anyone know if the lumens are in this post calibration file of my 5050ub? I have no idea how to read it, so I'm hoping someone can.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## jaredmwright

kirtis_mcleskey said:


> has anyone here went from the EPSON 5030ub to the EPSON 6050ub ? I am considering upgrading my projector..... I have been a very happy camper with my 5030ub, but I would love an even better picture
> 
> I have not seen a pixel shift or a 4k projector before in person.
> 
> Does epson have any projectors coming out soon that I should hold off for instead of getting the 6050 now?


I did and I don't regret it. I upgraded to get 4K video support along with Atmos audio since they tend to be tied together. I was happy with my 5030, but the 6050 definitely is a considerable step up in a few areas, namely: contrast, I no longer notice black crush which I used to have on my 5030, HDR support is fairly good now for static tone mapping on the latest firmware (on the original firmware I wasn't happy, you can search to learn more), image clarity and processing is much better and notable on lower quality content such as my DVR feed from my cable which is usually 720P/1080i (sports is noticeably improved). Lastly I would add that the brightness, color and overall support of higher bitrate HDMI. IMHO you will be satisfied if you upgrade. I was on the fence, but after making the jump, no regrets for going with 6050 eshift and upgrading. It's really a personal choice, the 5030 is no means a bad projector at all and I would argue holds up well for 1080P content in a fully light controlled room. Depending on your environment it can effect your experience greatly from both of these models. I have a fully light controlled room, which I continue to evolve for light treatment anfld I know I need to paint my ceiling black and the sides near the screen need some velvet to improve light reflections to truly maximize my viewing.

I want to try the HDFury LLDV unit to see how that improves the picture and enables Dolby Vision. HDR can be a frustrating experience for some depending on your source device and settings (this is true of most projectors IMHO). It took me a while to get my setup dialed in using S&M to look how I would like since projector's don't have the nits of a OLED or other standard 4K display. You can get a phenomenal picture with the right setup and calibration.

I would like to make some masking barsnin the future to see how it improves contrast and pop, I have a 175" Carl's screen in a 13x20 dedicated theatre room. Good luck making a decision. I purchased mine before the pandemic as a refurb and got a great deal luckily.


----------



## Fj40jason

jaredmwright said:


> I did and I don't regret it. I upgraded to get 4K video support along with Atmos audio since they tend to be tied together. I was happy with my 5030, but the 6050 definitely is a considerable step up in a few areas, namely: contrast, I no longer notice black crush which I used to have on my 5030, HDR support is fairly good now for static tone mapping on the latest firmware (on the original firmware I wasn't happy, you can search to learn more), image clarity and processing is much better and notable on lower quality content such as my DVR feed from my cable which is usually 720P/1080i (sports is noticeably improved). Lastly I would add that the brightness, color and overall support of higher bitrate HDMI. IMHO you will be satisfied if you upgrade. I was on the fence, but after making the jump, no regrets for going with 6050 eshift and upgrading. It's really a personal choice, the 5030 is no means a bad projector at all and I would argue holds up well for 1080P content in a fully light controlled room. Depending on your environment it can effect your experience greatly from both of these models. I have a fully light controlled room, which I continue to evolve for light treatment anfld I know I need to paint my ceiling black and the sides near the screen need some velvet to improve light reflections to truly maximize my viewing.
> 
> I want to try the HDFury LLDV unit to see how that improves the picture and enables Dolby Vision. HDR can be a frustrating experience for some depending on your source device and settings (this is true of most projectors IMHO). It took me a while to get my setup dialed in using S&M to look how I would like since projector's don't have the nits of a OLED or other standard 4K display. You can get a phenomenal picture with the right setup and calibration.
> 
> I would like to make some masking barsnin the future to see how it improves contrast and pop, I have a 175" Carl's screen in a 13x20 dedicated theatre room. Good luck making a decision. I purchased mine before the pandemic as a refurb and got a great deal luckily.


I am just learning about the HDFury. 
I am about to hook up a Dennon X6700H, which has video upscaling and quality improvements.

Do most people use the HDFury in addition to the technology built in to these high end AVR's? 
Or is it not needed when you have a quality AVR to handle the video processing?


----------



## PixelPusher15

jaredmwright said:


> I would like to make some masking barsnin the future to see how it improves contrast and pop


Highly recommended. I have some that attach with magnets (although i need stronger magnets) and they make a HUGE difference. Getting completely rid of black bars just makes a massive difference IMO. I used foam board that I got from Hobby Lobby cut into two pieces and then I took some thick construction board and sandwiched the foam board with spray adhesive so I would get a rigid 8.5' board. Then I wrapped it in triple black velvet. I tried using a glue gun but it was a pain in the butt so I went to spray adhesive and finished it by covering the seem on the back with velvet tape I had laying around. (this was to keep the glue residue off the screen). It works but I already cracked the foam by accidentally stepping on it. I'm going to remake them with 1/8" hardboard but with the same construction board sandwich idea.



Fj40jason said:


> Do most people use the HDFury in addition to the technology built in to these high end AVR's?
> Or is it not needed when you have a quality AVR to handle the video processing?


An AVR's video processing isn't going to do anything like what an HDFury is going to do. From my understanding, an HDFury is going to enable LLDV (or Low Latency Dolby Vision, which takes place on the player and not the display). Dolby Vision is built on top of HDR10 and dynamically adjusts each scene's max brightness and min brightness to be optimized based on the display's abilities. Since a projector's abilities are dependent on room and screen variables it is impossible for DV to natively work. What the HDFury does is it tells the source player that the display is LLDV compliant and then hands it some variables that will enable dynamic tone mapping based on scene.


----------



## Fj40jason

Quick question.
Can anyone tell me how to adjust the corners to be square? CHF4500 is level on the sides and back. Ceiling is really flat too. 

Screen appears to be level. However the level is only 2ft and doesn't go long enough to really get a great reading


----------



## PixelPusher15

Fj40jason said:


> Quick question.
> Can anyone tell me how to adjust the corners to be square? CHF4500 is level on the sides and back. Ceiling is really flat too.
> 
> Screen appears to be level. However the level is only 2ft and doesn't go long enough to really get a great reading
> 
> View attachment 3094894


Your PJ appears to be angled to the right. Turn it to the left and then use the lens shift to bring the image back on the screen.


----------



## carby91

I picked up a new Epson 5050UB yesterday and got it all set up, and have had issues hooking up my PS4 Pro to it.

I initially had it hooked into our Onkyo 777 receiver and then the receiver output to the projector, using 4K HDMI cables for everything. While running through there receiver I can not get any video and only broken fragments of audio.

When I bypass the receiver and hook up straight to the projector, obviously I get no audio but I also only get a very poor quality video loaded with static.

I tried swapping out for my old original PS4 through the receiver and it runs flawlessly so far, I also plugged my laptop HDMI output directly to the projector and was able to plus 4K video with no issues.

I also plugged my PS4 Pro back into my TV and it seems fine. Is there something I am missing or does the PS4 Pro just not work well with this model of projector?


----------



## ray-finkle

PixelPusher15 said:


> Your PJ appears to be angled to the right. Turn it to the left and then use the lens shift to bring the image back on the screen.


Looks like the opposite to me.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Fj40jason

Rotating the PJ helped some but adjusting the yaw was key. 
Thanks guys!


----------



## Evolutionize

RVD26 said:


> How long does Epson allow you to swap out refurbs? I still haven't taken mine out of the box and won't for another couple of months until my home is completed.
> Just hoping I can still swap mine out later if there's a defect.


FYI I just got off the phone with Epson support. They are arranging to have my faulty unit picked up tomorrow and will swap it out with another one. HOWEVER, she stated they will only straight swap it b/c its within 30 days of purchase. They stated after that time the unit would need to be sent in for repair, or replacement only if deemed by support. Also, the other bummer, she said they have no more refurb units in stock so she's trying to locate me one. Otherwise I fear they are going to refund my money and cancel the order 

So if I was you I'd find a way to test that thing out ASAP, since myself and at least one other person in this thread got refurbs in the past week or two and have problems right out of the box. Would be a bummer if I can't get a good replacement!


----------



## Fj40jason

PixelPusher15 said:


> An AVR's video processing isn't going to do anything like what an HDFury is going to do. From my understanding, an HDFury is going to enable LLDV (or Low Latency Dolby Vision, which takes place on the player and not the display). Dolby Vision is built on top of HDR10 and dynamically adjusts each scene's max brightness and min brightness to be optimized based on the display's abilities. Since a projector's abilities are dependent on room and screen variables it is impossible for DV to natively work. What the HDFury does is it tells the source player that the display is LLDV compliant and then hands it some variables that will enable dynamic tone mapping based on scene.


I don't have the receiver in yet to test but it does offer this Dynamic HDR and QMS tech.
I am still learning a lot on the AV subject but it will be interesting to see. 
The PJ is really good running off a Roku Ultra today, although I am listening to sound through the roku remote 





Dynamic HDR


Dynamic HDR enables a noticeable progression in overall video image quality




www.hdmi.org




.





Quick Media Switching (QMS)


QMS eliminates bonks by using the VRR mechanism to change frame rates, allowing rapid, smooth changes from a nominal 60Hz rate to any media rate below it (down to 24Hz). HDMI 2.1a




www.hdmi.org


----------



## PixelPusher15

Evolutionize said:


> FYI I just got off the phone with Epson support. They are arranging to have my faulty unit picked up tomorrow and will swap it out with another one. HOWEVER, she stated they will only straight swap it b/c its within 30 days of purchase. They stated after that time the unit would need to be sent in for repair, or replacement only if deemed by support. Also, the other bummer, she said they have no more refurb units in stock so she's trying to locate me one. Otherwise I fear they are going to refund my money and cancel the order
> 
> So if I was you I'd find a way to test that thing out ASAP, since myself and at least one other person in this thread got refurbs in the past week or two and have problems right out of the box. Would be a bummer if I can't get a good replacement!


Well that’s...interesting. 

I called tech support earlier and they confirmed there was an issue and I had to call Sales/Customer Support to have it swapped. They said I would get a new refurb sent out and I needed to send back the other one. So I literally just dropped it off at FedEx. I didn’t get the option to have it picked up and I only got a quick disclaimer of “there might be short supply so it might take a little while”. That was said in the same breath of shipping delays because of weather lol. 

I don’t like the thought of having my money refunded and having to fight in line when the 5050 refurbs come back. I assumed they had some sort of back stock for replacements for when their are warranty replacements.


----------



## rekbones

Fj40jason said:


> I don't have the receiver in yet to test but it does offer this Dynamic HDR and QMS tech.
> I am still learning a lot on the AV subject but it will be interesting to see.
> The PJ is really good running off a Roku Ultra today, although I am listening to sound through the roku remote
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dynamic HDR
> 
> 
> Dynamic HDR enables a noticeable progression in overall video image quality
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hdmi.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick Media Switching (QMS)
> 
> 
> QMS eliminates bonks by using the VRR mechanism to change frame rates, allowing rapid, smooth changes from a nominal 60Hz rate to any media rate below it (down to 24Hz). HDMI 2.1a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hdmi.org


I can't be certain but I suspect that Dynamic HDR jargon is just marketing double speak saying it will pass the available HDR formats that have Dynamic tone mapping ie Dolby Vision and HDR10+. As far as the other you need VRR support and not sure if any projectors support that. Only the high end video processors have dynamic HDR tone mapping so don't expect it in an AVR


----------



## RVD26

Evolutionize said:


> FYI I just got off the phone with Epson support. They are arranging to have my faulty unit picked up tomorrow and will swap it out with another one. HOWEVER, she stated they will only straight swap it b/c its within 30 days of purchase. They stated after that time the unit would need to be sent in for repair, or replacement only if deemed by support. Also, the other bummer, she said they have no more refurb units in stock so she's trying to locate me one. Otherwise I fear they are going to refund my money and cancel the order
> 
> So if I was you I'd find a way to test that thing out ASAP, since myself and at least one other person in this thread got refurbs in the past week or two and have problems right out of the box. Would be a bummer if I can't get a good replacement!


I took your advice and am testing it out now using my 4K Amazon Fire TV, YouTube and Prime Video. Using our wall as a screen.

Looks amazing so far. I can't imagine how much better it will look once I get an actual screen, adjust the settings and get more light control.

Anything in particular I should be looking out for?


----------



## Fj40jason

rekbones said:


> I can't be certain but I suspect that Dynamic HDR jargon is just marketing double speak saying it will pass the available HDR formats that have Dynamic tone mapping ie Dolby Vision and HDR10+. As far as the other you need VRR support and not sure if any projectors support that. Only the high end video processors have dynamic HDR tone mapping so don't expect it in an AVR


HDR is a confusing subject for sure.
This is one of the first 8K upscale AVRs.
Might not do anything for the video but will sound good regardless.


----------



## MannFan

Sorry, complete beginner question. I have the 5050 and a Denon S750H. I also have the PS5 and an Amazon 4K firestick. Should I be watching my Netflix, etc. on the PS5 because it's "better" or am I getting the same quality out of the firestick? Additionally, I've only ever used the HDMI cables I've gotten with products but do I need the "better" HDMI cables to take advantage of anything I mentioned.

Thanks in advance. Trying to get into this but it's tough!


----------



## rekbones

MannFan said:


> Sorry, complete beginner question. I have the 5050 and a Denon S750H. I also have the PS5 and an Amazon 4K firestick. Should I be watching my Netflix, etc. on the PS5 because it's "better" or am I getting the same quality out of the firestick? Additionally, I've only ever used the HDMI cables I've gotten with products but do I need the "better" HDMI cables to take advantage of anything I mentioned.
> 
> Thanks in advance. Trying to get into this but it's tough!


The cables that came with most products should be fine and work OK but may be of lesser quality and a little more prone to failure. When you get into lengths over 12' or so is where you get into trouble. Can't answer for the PS5 but best just judge for your self and use what looks best/convenient to use for you.


----------



## Pretorian

MannFan said:


> Sorry, complete beginner question. I have the 5050 and a Denon S750H. I also have the PS5 and an Amazon 4K firestick. Should I be watching my Netflix, etc. on the PS5 because it's "better" or am I getting the same quality out of the firestick? Additionally, I've only ever used the HDMI cables I've gotten with products but do I need the "better" HDMI cables to take advantage of anything I mentioned.
> 
> Thanks in advance. Trying to get into this but it's tough!


I cant answer for the Firestick but I get better and more stable image watching apps and streaming from my Xbox compared to mu Samsung SmartTV. But my guess is that the Firestick equals the PS5.


----------



## Evolutionize

PixelPusher15 said:


> Well that’s...interesting.
> 
> I called tech support earlier and they confirmed there was an issue and I had to call Sales/Customer Support to have it swapped. They said I would get a new refurb sent out and I needed to send back the other one. So I literally just dropped it off at FedEx. I didn’t get the option to have it picked up and I only got a quick disclaimer of “there might be short supply so it might take a little while”. That was said in the same breath of shipping delays because of weather lol.
> 
> I don’t like the thought of having my money refunded and having to fight in line when the 5050 refurbs come back. I assumed they had some sort of back stock for replacements for when their are warranty replacements.


Wow, sounds like you had a fairly different experience. Are you within 30 days of purchase like I am? I contact tech support via email first and exchanged photos etc with them to confirm the issue. They then told me to call a specific tech support number, which I did. Worked with that tech over the phone, resent photos, and he confirmed it was a hardware issue. He then redirected me to the Epson store rep, and she told me since it was within 30 days and a verified hardware issue they would arrange a pickup today. She then checked stock and informed me they did not have any more refurb units available, so she would try to locate one and would get back to me by Wednesday with more info. So hopefully she calls back with good news. 

Fedex just picked it up. We should exchange serial #s to make sure since its limited stock they don't just swap our units and send you mine, me yours LOL. I'm with you in not wanting to get a refund and have to play the lottery on catching another refurb deal in stock. Took me nearly a year of watching to catch this one. 

Good luck in getting your replacement, I hope it works out for us both!


----------



## Evolutionize

RVD26 said:


> I took your advice and am testing it out now using my 4K Amazon Fire TV, YouTube and Prime Video. Using our wall as a screen.
> 
> Looks amazing so far. I can't imagine how much better it will look once I get an actual screen, adjust the settings and get more light control.
> 
> Anything in particular I should be looking out for?


I'd just try several different sources and inputs and look for anything out of the ordinary. Spots/stars on the screen, blurred images, incorrect colors, out of the ordinary noise from the unit, mechanical issues (like failed/noisy fan or motors), etc. In my case it was fairly obvious smearing of light/white colors on dark backgrounds (as seen in the photos) and some strange lens anomalies. Another recent poster's refurb send back is PixelPusher15, he had blue smearing or spots in some areas of the image. 

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable can give you more specific guidelines, hopefully you got a good one! Mine just went back to Epson today


----------



## RVD26

Evolutionize said:


> I'd just try several different sources and inputs and look for anything out of the ordinary. Spots/stars on the screen, blurred images, incorrect colors, out of the ordinary noise from the unit, mechanical issues (like failed/noisy fan or motors), etc. In my case it was fairly obvious smearing of light/white colors on dark backgrounds (as seen in the photos) and some strange lens anomalies. Another recent poster's refurb send back is PixelPusher15, he had blue smearing or spots in some areas of the image.
> 
> I'm sure someone more knowledgeable can give you more specific guidelines, hopefully you got a good one! Mine just went back to Epson today


Is there a specific video/movie you or @PixelPusher15 watched that brought out the issues? Want to see if the issue replicates on mine.


----------



## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> I took your advice and am testing it out now using my 4K Amazon Fire TV, YouTube and Prime Video. Using our wall as a screen.
> 
> Looks amazing so far. I can't imagine how much better it will look once I get an actual screen, adjust the settings and get more light control.
> 
> Anything in particular I should be looking out for?


Same thing Evolutionize said.

Take a close look at white letters on a black screen. Get a good look at a black image with the auto iris off so you can see if you have dust blobs. Look at things with gradients like the Disney+ splash screen. Also, put the projector in High power consumption and auto iris set to high speed and find something that goes from really bright to really dark and listen to hear if something sounds iffy. Some mechanical noise from the iris is normal, just make sure it isn't super crunchy and that the fan sounds smooth.

My issue was apparent on just about anything. Weird blue haloing on anything that was mid to dark blue. You won't miss it if you have it


----------



## rekbones

PixelPusher15 said:


> Same thing Evolutionize said.
> 
> Take a close look at white letters on a black screen. Get a good look at a black image with the auto iris off so you can see if you have dust blobs. Look at things with gradients like the Disney+ splash screen. Also, put the projector in High power consumption and auto iris set to high speed and find something that goes from really bright to really dark and listen to hear if something sounds iffy. Some mechanical noise from the iris is normal, just make sure it isn't super crunchy and that the fan sounds smooth.
> 
> My issue was apparent on just about anything. Weird blue haloing on anything that was mid to dark blue. You won't miss it if you have it


Just got ship notification on my refurbed this morning, ordered on Friday. Praying to the lottery gods I get a good one. My SVS PB2000 went up in smoke this morning so I now have a replacement PS on the way for it. The fun never ends. BenQ HT3550 is failing also so thats most likely going to be RMA'ed before I try to sell it.


----------



## RRF

RVD26 said:


> Is there a specific video/movie you or @PixelPusher15 watched that brought out the issues? Want to see if the issue replicates on mine.


Did you check the Total Hours in the service menu?
Hold down the Menu button for ~8 seconds and then press ESC twice.
I am curious if the hours are reset on a Refurb unit.


----------



## PixelPusher15

RRF said:


> Did you check the Total Hours in the service menu?
> Hold down the Menu button for ~8 seconds and then press ESC twice.
> I am curious if the hours are reset on a Refurb unit.


I checked mine it was at 53 hours on opening, bulb was at 0


----------



## rwalktheplank

Will the remotes that ship with the 5030 or 5040 or 5050 work on a 5020ub projector? The replacements for the 5020 are 3x or 4x the cost as the others.


----------



## RVD26

RRF said:


> Did you check the Total Hours in the service menu?
> Hold down the Menu button for ~8 seconds and then press ESC twice.
> I am curious if the hours are reset on a Refurb unit.


The bulb showed 0 hours. I already have it boxed up again. Didn't have a chance to check the total hours in the service menu.


----------



## millerquad4

Finally!!! Ordered my 16.9 120” StudioTek 130 G4 WallScreen Deluxe. I have waited a long time for this. Today is a great day!


----------



## nefrina




----------



## jaredmwright

serith said:


> View attachment 3095318


Let the fun begin, same model I have, it's awesome!


----------



## nefrina

let me just state the obvious and say that yes, this looks ridiculous. however it's the best temporary solution i could come up with for some short-term testing.

i placed 2 kitchen chairs behind my rear seating under my existing projector and ran a piece of OSB across them, and then raised the projector a bit with some spare hard drive boxes (best i could come up with to have both projectors in roughly the same spot). i want to run a 2nd hdmi connection to the 6050 with the same signal so i can do blind testing back & forth.

i'm extremely excited to see the difference between entry-level & flagship from the same company.


----------



## Fj40jason

Does anyone see green flashing in a movie?
Happens faster than I can stop or blink.
Roku Ultra plugged directly to 5050 HDMI 2


----------



## jaredmwright

Fj40jason said:


> Does anyone see green flashing in a movie?
> Happens faster than I can stop or blink.
> Roku Ultra plugged directly to 5050 HDMI 2


No, sounds like a possible HDMI cable issue to me.


----------



## fredworld

Fj40jason said:


> Does anyone see green flashing in a movie?
> Happens faster than I can stop or blink.
> Roku Ultra plugged directly to 5050 HDMI 2





jaredmwright said:


> No, sounds like a possible HDMI cable issue to me.


Agreed. You can try a different cable. But first disconnect, then reconnect the HDMI cable at both ends and then be sure it's seated all the way in securely, at both ends, with little or no wiggle.


----------



## Pretorian

I am not sure if I am dreaming but I plan on getting a larger 2.35:1 128” screen for my 6050 and when I calculated the throw ratio a month ago it was maybe 4,2 meters.
But when I did the calculation today it is 6,5 meters.

Is it really that long?


----------



## Luminated67

^Nope it’s still just over 4m


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> ^Nope it’s still just over 4m
> View attachment 3095554


But why does my calculation say 6,5? Did I miss a number?


----------



## djsvetljo

DavidK442 said:


> This is going to be a bit of a ramble with no question or useful information, so please bear with me (or just skip to the next post).
> (I'm quite sure many reading this thread will be going through, or have gone through the same thought process.)
> 
> Ten years ago I made the leap from a tv room to a home theater with projector and screen.
> At that time the Epson 8500UB and Panasonic AE4000 were the mid-priced "higher contrast" projectors competing head to head.
> A substantial price drop at end of life brought the Panasonic within budget and into my blacked out theater room.
> Countless hours spent pouring over the gushing reviews had created unrealistic expectations, and even though brighter scenes were mind blowing, black levels were so bad compared to my CRT that I returned the projector the next day. Months later I picked up a 720p Acer DLP, and even though the dark scene contrast was slightly worse, at 1/3 the price of the Panasonic I was able to live with it.
> When the Acer died a few years later I replaced it with the BenQ W1070 DLP. Everything was a bit better (colors, contrast, pixilation) but honestly not a night and day upgrade.
> For the past 6 years I have been completely happy with every aspect of the BenQ...except of course for the dark scenes. I know contrast is the single most important aspect of picture quality and the main reason people pay many thousands of dollars for a "good" projector.
> So here I am, pouring through the Epson 5050UB thread, seriously contemplating spending $4,000 (Canadian with tax) to fix the contrast problem. (Just typing that makes it sound even more ludicrous.) But will the Epson really be good enough? If its contrast is not *substantially* better than the old 8500UB then I would say "No, not good enough." Clearly the 5050UB's dark scene contrast is much better than my still functioning DLP, but digging a little deeper reveals post after post saying that the Epson UB can't hold a candle to a JVC, which isn't nearly as black as an OLED panel. The older generation JVC DLA X790 is yet another $2,000, which puts the total cost for contrast at $6,000. Going full crazy to the "entry level" JVC NX-5 brings me to a mind-numbing $8,000, but sacrifices a bit of contrast. I love watching movies and would really appreciate excellent contrast but at what cost? The whole thing leaves me feeling...
> 
> View attachment 3092250


I switched from BenQ HT2050 which is very similar to what you have to 6050 and at the first couple movies my jaw dropped numerous times. Even my wife noticed the different (and that means a lot). The image had (I don't notice it anymore as I got used to) increased 3-dimenssioality - something I have been reading in projectorreviews.com articles for years. The increased contrast, black levels and sharper lenses all contributed to that. The 3K resolution - not so much. Go for the 5050, just don't pay full retail price.


----------



## Sfay93

Pretorian said:


> But why does my calculation say 6,5? Did I miss a number?


If you look at your screenshot, you have 128" in the box but the slider was messed up and is at 205". I've seen it glitch like that before myself.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Pretorian said:


> But why does my calculation say 6,5? Did I miss a number?


That calculator is goofy. You have to hit enter on your keyboard for it to accept the value. You probably typed it in and then hit lock.


----------



## Evolutionize

RRF said:


> Did you check the Total Hours in the service menu?
> Hold down the Menu button for ~8 seconds and then press ESC twice.
> I am curious if the hours are reset on a Refurb unit.





PixelPusher15 said:


> I checked mine it was at 53 hours on opening, bulb was at 0





RVD26 said:


> The bulb showed 0 hours. I already have it boxed up again. Didn't have a chance to check the total hours in the service menu.


My refurb had 356 hours on it, 3 bulb replacements (!), and 0 hours on the current bulb. I wonder how accurate that is however b/c I put 3ish hours on it while testing and when I went back into the menu the next day it still showed 0 bulb hours. Either way due to the aforementioned problems with the image its on its way back to Epson, lets see what I get as a replacement.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Hmm, still no lamps.. My dealer told me last week they would hopefully ship them to me this week,so far nothing.. Getting a bit worried i wont get them at all.. Manufacturing seems to be at a complete stand still around the world..


----------



## Zedekias

How often does everyone clean their lense? And what do you use? I only have a couple hundred hours on mine and it looks fairly dusty on the surface. And a little bit on the lense behind it. Nothing is visible on the screen, but I just don't want to over do it or under do anything. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

I use the same practice as with my telescopes. Manual blower bulb. If the image isn't being effected LEAVE IT ALONE !!!!


----------



## double_b

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Hmm, still no lamps.. My dealer told me last week they would hopefully ship them to me this week,so far nothing.. Getting a bit worried i wont get them at all.. Manufacturing seems to be at a complete stand still around the world..


Manufacturing is slow but I believe a big issue right now is that the harbor in NY and probably SF are sitting idle. I heard from a supplier we use in China(not electronics) that there is a huge issue with getting cargo ships emptied and this is also an issue because manufacturers aren't getting their containers back to refill them. We ordered a part shipped from China and it took 30 days to get to us AFTER it showed it was in NY harbor, and we're only about 3 hours from NYC.


----------



## Zedekias

fredworld said:


> I use the same practice as with my telescopes. Manual blower bulb. If the image isn't being effected LEAVE IT ALONE !!!!


Yeah that's why I haven't touched it yet. I'd hate to scratch the lense when there wasn't a problem to begin with. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Zedekias

double_b said:


> Manufacturing is slow but I believe a big issue right now is that the harbor in NY and probably SF are sitting idle. I heard from a supplier we use in China(not electronics) that there is a huge issue with getting cargo ships emptied and this is also an issue because manufacturers aren't getting their containers back to refill them. We ordered a part shipped from China and it took 30 days to get to us AFTER it showed it was in NY harbor, and we're only about 3 hours from NYC.


Hsu Research gave me basically the same story

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Tsunamijhoe

double_b said:


> Manufacturing is slow but I believe a big issue right now is that the harbor in NY and probably SF are sitting idle. I heard from a supplier we use in China(not electronics) that there is a huge issue with getting cargo ships emptied and this is also an issue because manufacturers aren't getting their containers back to refill them. We ordered a part shipped from China and it took 30 days to get to us AFTER it showed it was in NY harbor, and we're only about 3 hours from NYC.


I really don't hope goods for mainland Europe needs to get unloaded in NY or SF ..
I'm in Scandinavia and these lamps are as scarce as dodo doodie..


----------



## RRF

Epson V13H010L89 Projector Lamp with Module OEM Replacement
Decided to take another crack at a replacement lamp from MyProjectorLamps.ca, as the price is very good compared to the Epson.ca site.
The lamp was shipped from Calgary to Toronto via Canada Post in 1 week. (Took only 22 hours from Miami the last time)
Packaging
Packaging was unique. I was very wary, as when you wrap something like a football it tends to get used like one.
Visible Comparison
Side by side photos show the modules were nearly identical, but the original Epson module was stamped "Epson" and generally appeared slightly better quality. There were also handwritten markings on the Epson module, probably due to inspection and quality control. No such markings were visible on the OEM module.
Seize-Down Screw Size
The screw size measurement was take with digital calipers on the stem of the screw, not on the threads, for a more accurate comparison.
Epson Factory Lamp screw diameter = 2.24mm
OEM Replacement Lamp screw diameter = 2.54mm
The larger diameter of the OEM replacement screw made no difference once the lamp was in place. It tightened snug with the same amount of effort.
Installation
Both Lamps take considerable effort to snap into place so the screws reach. I performed this while the projector was ceiling mounted, so it is not easy to perform this step and apply adequate pressure without altering the projectors position. Both modules are a very tight fit. Scratches were visible in the housing from just 4 swap outs.
_Update:I solved my issue with the difficulty I had seating the modules. The seize-down screws have to be retracted for the the module to easily slide in. The OEM screws, being slightly thicker, do not fully retract on their own and need to be screwed out slightly. Once done the module seated easily._ 

_Update: I*n fact there may have been no issue with the screws at all...after swapping back the Factory Lamp, I noticed I was angling the module just enough to have it slightly misaligned when attempting to seat it. Previously I performed the swap in the dark. Once I threw some light onto the area, I realized my error.*_

Power Output
Test scenario - 100" screen - 13ft throw, Software - Calman Home Enthusiast, Meters - XRite iPro2 Spectrometer, XRite i1Colorimeter, Source - Accupel DV5000 (Full Field White 100IRE), Lamp Mode - ECO, meters positioned 5ft from screen. Factory lamp has 300 hours on it. In hindsight, I should have measured the actual lumens, but it was the difference between the lamps that I was focused upon.
I measured the Luminance in Natural/ECO mode, making no changes to my calibration settings, as this is the only mode calibrated and the most used in my theatre. Gamma is at -2 and the Iris is set at -8., Contrast 44, Brightness 55. I find this plenty bright for TV viewing. Position of the meters was not altered...only the lamp was swapped and a 15min. warm up was used for both.
The OEM lamp's measured at 23Y, and the factory lamp measured at 31Y. The uniformity of the OEM lamp did not appear as good as the Epson Lamp with a slightly higher luminance at the sides than at the center. I should have done more testing for this, but I wanted to keep the meters in exactly the same position for each test.
I did however take some measurements with the factory lamp of the other modes_ (all at default settings) _just for reference.
Dynamic - 79.7
Bright Cinema - 40.9
Natural - 31.0
Cinema - 19.8
BW - 37.5
Digital Cinema - 20.0


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## PixelPusher15

double_b said:


> Manufacturing is slow but I believe a big issue right now is that the harbor in NY and probably SF are sitting idle. I heard from a supplier we use in China(not electronics) that there is a huge issue with getting cargo ships emptied and this is also an issue because manufacturers aren't getting their containers back to refill them. We ordered a part shipped from China and it took 30 days to get to us AFTER it showed it was in NY harbor, and we're only about 3 hours from NYC.


Is this why every single thing I want from Ikea is out of stock? lol I just want my dang Linnmon table tops so I can finish my office!


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## fredworld

RRF said:


> Epson V13H010L89 Projector Lamp with Module OEM Replacement
> Decided to take another crack at a replacement lamp from MyProjectorLamps.ca, as the price is very good compared to the Epson.ca site.
> The lamp was shipped from Calgary to Toronto via Canada Post in 1 week. (Took only 22 hours from Miami the last time)
> Packaging
> Packaging was unique. I was very wary, as when you wrap something like a football it tends to get used like one.
> Visible Comparison
> Side by side photos show the modules were nearly identical, but the original Epson module was stamped "Epson" and generally appeared slightly better quality. There were also handwritten markings on the Epson module, probably due to inspection and quality control. No such markings were visible on the OEM module.
> Seize-Down Screw Size
> The screw size measurement was take with digital calipers on the stem of the screw, not on the threads, for a more accurate comparison.
> Epson Factory Lamp screw diameter = 2.24mm
> OEM Replacement Lamp screw diameter = 2.54mm
> The larger diameter of the OEM replacement screw made no difference once the lamp was in place. It tightened snug with the same amount of effort.
> Installation
> Both Lamps take considerable effort to snap into place so the screws reach. I performed this while the projector was ceiling mounted, so it is not easy to perform this step and apply adequate pressure without altering the projectors position. Both modules are a very tight fit. Scratches were visible in the housing from just 4 swap outs.
> Power Output
> Test scenario - 100" screen - 13ft throw, Software - Calman Home Enthusiast, Meters - XRite iPro2 Spectrometer, XRite i1Colorimeter, Source - Accupel DV5000 (Full Field White 100IRE), Lamp Mode - ECO, meters positioned 5ft from screen. Factory lamp has 300 hours on it.
> I measured the Luminance in Natural/ECO mode, making no changes to my calibration settings, as this is the only mode calibrated and the most used in my theatre. Gamma is at -2 and the Iris is set at -8., Contrast 44, Brightness 55. I find this plenty bright for TV viewing. Position of the meters was not altered...only the lamp was swapped and a 15min. warm up was used for both.
> The OEM lamp's measured at 23Y, and the factory lamp measured at 31Y. The uniformity of the OEM lamp did not appear as good as the Epson Lamp with a slightly higher luminance at the sides than at the center. In hindsight I should have done more testing for this, but I wanted to keep the meters in exactly the same position for each test.
> I did however take some measurements with the factory lamp of the other modes_ (all at default settings) _just for reference.
> Dynamic - 79.7
> Bright Cinema - 40.9
> Natural - 31.0
> Cinema - 19.8
> BW - 37.5
> Digital Cinema - 20.0
> View attachment 3095752
> View attachment 3095753
> View attachment 3095755
> View attachment 3095756


Thanks so much for the thorough analysis. Your MyProjectorLamp (MPL) packaging looked exactly like the two I got from them neither of which fit my 5050. Alternatively, the Epson supplied lamp snaps in and out quite readily with no excessive force or pressure necessary. I'm able to do so with the PJ ceiling mounted. My factory lamp now has over 1100 hours on it with no evident dimming. 
Are you planning to keep the MPL lamp?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Evolutionize said:


> Wow, sounds like you had a fairly different experience. Are you within 30 days of purchase like I am? I contact tech support via email first and exchanged photos etc with them to confirm the issue. They then told me to call a specific tech support number, which I did. Worked with that tech over the phone, resent photos, and he confirmed it was a hardware issue. He then redirected me to the Epson store rep, and she told me since it was within 30 days and a verified hardware issue they would arrange a pickup today. She then checked stock and informed me they did not have any more refurb units available, so she would try to locate one and would get back to me by Wednesday with more info. So hopefully she calls back with good news.
> 
> Fedex just picked it up. We should exchange serial #s to make sure since its limited stock they don't just swap our units and send you mine, me yours LOL. I'm with you in not wanting to get a refund and have to play the lottery on catching another refurb deal in stock. Took me nearly a year of watching to catch this one.
> 
> Good luck in getting your replacement, I hope it works out for us both!


Well, I’m impatient. I just called Epson and asked for an update and good news! My replacement has shipped and it will be here Friday, got the tracking # and everything. Bad news is that I’m going out of town for the weekend so my new toy will be left at home without me.


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## Tsunamijhoe

RRF said:


> Epson V13H010L89 Projector Lamp with Module OEM Replacement
> Decided to take another crack at a replacement lamp from MyProjectorLamps.ca, as the price is very good compared to the Epson.ca site.
> The lamp was shipped from Calgary to Toronto via Canada Post in 1 week. (Took only 22 hours from Miami the last time)
> Packaging
> Packaging was unique. I was very wary, as when you wrap something like a football it tends to get used like one.
> Visible Comparison
> Side by side photos show the modules were nearly identical, but the original Epson module was stamped "Epson" and generally appeared slightly better quality. There were also handwritten markings on the Epson module, probably due to inspection and quality control. No such markings were visible on the OEM module.
> Seize-Down Screw Size
> The screw size measurement was take with digital calipers on the stem of the screw, not on the threads, for a more accurate comparison.
> Epson Factory Lamp screw diameter = 2.24mm
> OEM Replacement Lamp screw diameter = 2.54mm
> The larger diameter of the OEM replacement screw made no difference once the lamp was in place. It tightened snug with the same amount of effort.
> Installation
> Both Lamps take considerable effort to snap into place so the screws reach. I performed this while the projector was ceiling mounted, so it is not easy to perform this step and apply adequate pressure without altering the projectors position. Both modules are a very tight fit. Scratches were visible in the housing from just 4 swap outs.
> Power Output
> Test scenario - 100" screen - 13ft throw, Software - Calman Home Enthusiast, Meters - XRite iPro2 Spectrometer, XRite i1Colorimeter, Source - Accupel DV5000 (Full Field White 100IRE), Lamp Mode - ECO, meters positioned 5ft from screen. Factory lamp has 300 hours on it. In hindsight, I should have measured the actual lumens, but it was the difference between the lamps that I was focused upon.
> I measured the Luminance in Natural/ECO mode, making no changes to my calibration settings, as this is the only mode calibrated and the most used in my theatre. Gamma is at -2 and the Iris is set at -8., Contrast 44, Brightness 55. I find this plenty bright for TV viewing. Position of the meters was not altered...only the lamp was swapped and a 15min. warm up was used for both.
> The OEM lamp's measured at 23Y, and the factory lamp measured at 31Y. The uniformity of the OEM lamp did not appear as good as the Epson Lamp with a slightly higher luminance at the sides than at the center. I should have done more testing for this, but I wanted to keep the meters in exactly the same position for each test.
> I did however take some measurements with the factory lamp of the other modes_ (all at default settings) _just for reference.
> Dynamic - 79.7
> Bright Cinema - 40.9
> Natural - 31.0
> Cinema - 19.8
> BW - 37.5
> Digital Cinema - 20.0
> View attachment 3095752
> View attachment 3095753
> View attachment 3095755
> View attachment 3095756


I am not convinced the 0,3mm didnt make a difference.. The ones i tried with that difference wouldnt grip the thread in the projector without considerable force which i did not want to do.. The original lamp does not take any force at all to fit,only to push it into the connector requires a bit of pressure.. You sure you didnt force the oem screws into a smaller thread and thus enlarged it in the projector? Did you try and fit the original again after you fastened the oem?
I for one will not buy a single oem lamp for this projector again.. I would rather pay more and get the correct one with proper QC.


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I am not convinced the 0,3mm didnt make a difference.. The ones i tried with that difference wouldnt grip the thread in the projector without considerable force which i did not want to do.. The original lamp does not take any force at all to fit,only to push it into the connector requires a bit of pressure.. You sure you didnt force the oem screws into a smaller thread and thus enlarged it in the projector? Did you try and fit the original again after you fastened the oem?
> I for one will not buy a single oem lamp for this projector again.. I would rather pay more and get the correct one with proper QC.


I have the same concern. The two MyProjectorLamps that I had, another from Jaspertronics and a fourth from Pureland all had similar issues with illfitting housings and out of spec screws as opposed to the Epson supplied lamp that fit and screwed in with little effort. Despite all those lamp changes there were no visible scratches to the Epson housing.


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## RRF

I removed the factory lamp, measured the screws, then installed the OEM lamp for testing. Then I removed it and replaced the factory lamp and recorded it's output. 
I was very careful screwing in the OEM lamp's seize-downs, as I did not want to risk any damage.


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## biglen

RRF said:


> I removed the factory lamp, measured the screws, then installed the OEM lamp for testing. Then I removed it and replaced the factory lamp and recorded it's output.
> I was very careful screwing in the OEM lamp's seize-downs, as I did not want to risk any damage.


So what's your overall thoughts on the OEM lamp? Would you recommend it, and will you keep yours? My hours are getting up there, so I need a replacement sooner than later. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## RRF

I will answer that later tonight...but at $175CAN compared to $440CAN from Epson, it is hard to resist.
I just put the OEM back in for more thorough testing . This time I'll give it a longer warm-up, a bit of calibration, try Medium power, open the iris, and re-examine the uniformity.

I solved my issue with the difficulty I had seating the modules. The seize-down screws have to be retracted for the the module to easily slide in. The OEM screws, being slightly thicker, do not fully retract on their own and need to be screwed out slightly. Once done the module seated easily. With the factory module's screws, they are looser and fall back on their own. Although, if you have difficulty seating the factory module, it is just that the screw did not fall back all the way. There was no issue with the OEM screws going in with any more difficulty than the factory module's. They both go in very easily until seated, then about an 1/8th of a turn to snug them up.


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## Hopinater

Rob Greer said:


> View attachment 3093470
> 
> 
> This is what it looks like when a pipe in your attic freezes and then breaks directly over your home theater projector (Epson 6050) because the state of Texas is stupid and refuses to join the regulated east/west grid￼ and yet can’t generate enough power leaving millions (like me) without power for days with temperatures dropping to the low teens.


Oh man! I just saw this picture and I almost cried seeing the water dripping from the PJ and the Atmos speakers and onto the the rear speakers and subwoofer. That's a horrible sight. So sorry this happened to you. I hope you can get this settled with insurance asap.


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## psyduck103

serith said:


> let me just state the obvious and say that yes, this looks ridiculous. however it's the best temporary solution i could come up with for some short-term testing.
> 
> i placed 2 kitchen chairs behind my rear seating under my existing projector and ran a piece of OSB across them, and then raised the projector a bit with some spare hard drive boxes (best i could come up with to have both projectors in roughly the same spot). i want to run a 2nd hdmi connection to the 6050 with the same signal so i can do blind testing back & forth.
> 
> i'm extremely excited to see the difference between entry-level & flagship from the same company.
> 
> View attachment 3095413


I went to my son's house and saw the projector, I am doing some work on my room so he set it up at his house to make sure it works. Boy dose it work, my youngest son said it looks like his new TCL 65" 635 but bigger. I think it is money well spent, I am upgrading from a 3700. I am also changing from Paradigm Monitor 11 to S6v2 center channel to go with my S8 mains. I know all about combing-They sound great where I sit . Serith has Power Sound speakers behind his screen and being matched they sound Incredible. The mismatch on my old centers was ugly to say the least.


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## RRF

RRF said:


> I will answer that later tonight...but at $175CAN compared to $440CAN from Epson, it is hard to resist.
> I just put the OEM back in for more thorough testing . This time I'll give it a longer warm-up, a bit of calibration, try Medium power, open the iris, and re-examine the uniformity.


Yes, the OEM lamp is a keeper. Although I did not do any more back to back testing, I had no trouble achieving similar or greater brightness once I opened up the iris from the previous -8 to -4. Uniformity was not an issue once I had an hour on the lamp. Switching to Medium and High power was significantly brighter, but unnecessary even with some lights on in my room.
There is definitely a learning curve as to the affect of each of the controls. It will require some time to learn and document those prior to a full calibration.


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## reechings

DavidK442 said:


> This is going to be a bit of a ramble with no question or useful information, so please bear with me (or just skip to the next post).
> (I'm quite sure many reading this thread will be going through, or have gone through the same thought process.)
> 
> Ten years ago I made the leap from a tv room to a home theater with projector and screen.
> At that time the Epson 8500UB and Panasonic AE4000 were the mid-priced "higher contrast" projectors competing head to head.
> A substantial price drop at end of life brought the Panasonic within budget and into my blacked out theater room.
> Countless hours spent pouring over the gushing reviews had created unrealistic expectations, and even though brighter scenes were mind blowing, black levels were so bad compared to my CRT that I returned the projector the next day. Months later I picked up a 720p Acer DLP, and even though the dark scene contrast was slightly worse, at 1/3 the price of the Panasonic I was able to live with it.
> When the Acer died a few years later I replaced it with the BenQ W1070 DLP. Everything was a bit better (colors, contrast, pixilation) but honestly not a night and day upgrade.
> For the past 6 years I have been completely happy with every aspect of the BenQ...except of course for the dark scenes. I know contrast is the single most important aspect of picture quality and the main reason people pay many thousands of dollars for a "good" projector.
> So here I am, pouring through the Epson 5050UB thread, seriously contemplating spending $4,000 (Canadian with tax) to fix the contrast problem. (Just typing that makes it sound even more ludicrous.) But will the Epson really be good enough? If its contrast is not *substantially* better than the old 8500UB then I would say "No, not good enough." Clearly the 5050UB's dark scene contrast is much better than my still functioning DLP, but digging a little deeper reveals post after post saying that the Epson UB can't hold a candle to a JVC, which isn't nearly as black as an OLED panel. The older generation JVC DLA X790 is yet another $2,000, which puts the total cost for contrast at $6,000. Going full crazy to the "entry level" JVC NX-5 brings me to a mind-numbing $8,000, but sacrifices a bit of contrast. I love watching movies and would really appreciate excellent contrast but at what cost? The whole thing leaves me feeling...
> 
> View attachment 3092250


Wait for a refurb 5050 to be in stock for about $3000 CDN with tax. That's what I'm probably going to do unless I wait so long that a 5060 comes out.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


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## RRF

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I am not convinced the 0,3mm didnt make a difference.. The ones i tried with that difference wouldnt grip the thread in the projector without considerable force which i did not want to do.. The original lamp does not take any force at all to fit,only to push it into the connector requires a bit of pressure.. You sure you didnt force the oem screws into a smaller thread and thus enlarged it in the projector? Did you try and fit the original again after you fastened the oem?
> I for one will not buy a single oem lamp for this projector again.. I would rather pay more and get the correct one with proper QC.


See my update in the review on why it "appeared" extra force was necessary... it was not, once the seize-down screws were retracted properly. The factory module had the same difficulty until I realized what was happening.


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## Kieran

RRF said:


> Epson Factory Lamp screw diameter = 2.24mm
> OEM Replacement Lamp screw diameter = 2.54mm


Again, that's probably the wrong use of the term "OEM." Is this supplier claiming in their product description that these are actually OEM parts, or are you just using that term yourself? If they were truly OEM, they would fit and work. If they don't, they are knock-offs.
OEM = original equipment manufacturer, which means that the part was or is actually used by Epson in this specific projector.


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## Kieran

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I for one will not buy a single oem lamp for this projector again..


The lamp assembly from MyProjectorLamps is not an OEM assembly. Here's a quote from their website:


> The Epson Home Cinema 5050UB projector lamp with module is a genuine original replacement part for specific Epson projectors.* It has a OEM Genuine Original Lamp Inside**.
> 
> The Epson Home Cinema 5050UB projector lamp with module is designed to replace bulbs in numerous Epson projectors. Click on the "Suitable Projector Models" tab below to see compatible projectors.
> 
> Included with every projector lamp we sell is our trusted 180-Day Guarantee. If you order a projector lamp from our company and you are not satisfied for any reason, you may send the projector lamp back for a full refund or an exchange.
> 
> The MyProjectorLamp price is only $126.72 for the projector lamp.
> 
> *"Genuine Original Lamp Inside" refers to OEM (original equipment manufacturer) bare projector bulbs - made by Philips, Osram and Ushio - these companies manufacture genuine original parts for all major projector brands. Genuine original bulbs are manufactured to the identical strict quality control requirements as are found in original modules.


So, sounds to me, from the above, that only the bulb is "OEM" and the assembly is "designed to replace" lamps in _numerous_ Epson projectors.
I'm not surprised they don't fit perfectly.


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## Kieran

Seems to me, if we can't get full assemblies directly from Epson, the next best solution is to just order the genuine OEM _bare bulb_ and carefully, manually, replace just the bulb inside the lamp assembly.
Is there a source where we can buy just the bulbs?


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## fredworld

Kieran said:


> Seems to me, if we can't get full assemblies directly from Epson, the next best solution is to just order the genuine OEM _bare bulb_ and carefully, manually, replace just the bulb inside the lamp assembly.
> Is there a source where we can buy just the bulbs?


I was not able to locate any suppliers for the ELPLP89 but Jaspertronics has a variety of bare bulbs. Epson sells only the entire assembly. However, as tsunamihjoe intimated, reliability and performance consistency of the bulbs without Epson's imprimatur could be risky.


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## Tsunamijhoe

Kieran said:


> The lamp assembly from MyProjectorLamps is not an OEM assembly. Here's a quote from their website:
> 
> 
> So, sounds to me, from the above, that only the bulb is "OEM" and the assembly is "designed to replace" lamps in _numerous_ Epson projectors.
> I'm not surprised they don't fit perfectly.


I meant ofcourse aftermarket,not OEM.. Like i mentioned in a previous thread,i also interchange the term knockoff/aftermarket and oem.. I do know what oem really means though,but most people understand perfectly us dingbats that use the term oem instead of knockoff/aftermarket.. If only there were an abbreviation for aftermarket or knockoff, one would probably use the correct term..
I shall try and remember proper term in future to avoid confusion.

That said, it looks a bit more complicated to replace the bare bulb than on the sony lamp,which had 2 screws,and that was it.. The epson assembly seem to have reflectors and parts that need to fit in proper place when replacing bulb.. I am still awaiting my 2 original lamps, and still have about 60 days of use before changing becomes pressing,so until i know if original lamps is impossible to get, i won't be venturing into the knockoff market..


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## RRF

Everyone is free to make up their own mind.

I gave you an unbiased, thorough report, explaining all the differences and the performance of the unit.

The module fits exactly the same as the factory unit. The screws while slightly larger, fit into the projector just the same as the factory module.
_*In fact there may have been no issue with the screws at all...after swapping back the Factory Lamp, I noticed I was angling the module just enough to have it slightly misaligned when attempting to seat it. Previously I performed the swap in the dark. Once I threw some light onto the area, I realized my error.*_

One other point to consider. My 5050UB was manufactured in Aug.2018, so one would assume the lamp was manufactured around the same time. I do not know when the replacement lamp was manufactured.

The only part I left out, was the Epson stamp on the lamps , and a picture of the other side of the box. I have attached those.There is also a picture comparing the screws in the setback position.


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## fredworld

I just ordered a ELPLP89 lamp from the Epson website. As of this writing, they are in stock.


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## SpedInFargo

Been a long time since I've done much HTPC stuff and I'm confused about what display resolution I should be using in Windows with the 5050. I threw together a Win 10 box with a 1080-TI for a video card so I could play around with MadVR.

When I first hooked up the PC to the projector (through a Pioneer SC-LX701) it came up with a display of 1920x1080 by default. I have these other options: 4096x2160 or 3840x2160.

4096 gives me a letterbox border on the top and bottom of my 16:9 screen which makes sense. 3840x2160 FEELS like it would make more sense (exactly 1920 * 2 and 1080 * 2) but when I select that resolution I have both a letterbox AND a pillarbox around the sides.

Do I need to something in the NVIDIA control panel to somehow "overscan" this to get rid of the borders?

Apologies for the basic question...


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## biglen

fredworld said:


> I just ordered a ELPLP89 lamp from the Epson website. As of this writing, they are in stock.


Still in stock. I just grabbed one. Thanks for the heads up. How many hours are you guys changing the bulb at ? I'm up to 1200 hours, mostly on high lamp. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> Still in stock. I just grabbed one. Thanks for the heads up. How many hours are you guys changing the bulb at ? I'm up to 1200 hours, mostly on high lamp.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


You're welcome. I'm going to test the new lamp promptly upon receipt. If it's good to go, then I'll leave it in play and have my current 1100+ hour lamp as a spare. Then, if all goes well, at about 3000 hours I'll order a new lamp. I run on MEDIUM except for 3D when it's on HIGH, but that's rare.


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## Sorny

fredworld said:


> I just ordered a ELPLP89 lamp from the Epson website. As of this writing, they are in stock.


Thanks for the heads-up!



biglen said:


> Still in stock. I just grabbed one. Thanks for the heads up. How many hours are you guys changing the bulb at ? I'm up to 1200 hours, mostly on high lamp.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


They're still in stock; more than I wanted to spend on a lamp, but I've got one on order too. Now if they'd just get the filters in stock...

As to hours, I think it's when it starts to get annoyingly dim... I'm hoping it's close to the claimed 3500 hrs before I have to replace it. I haven't glanced at hours on mine recently, but I figure that since this is the first time I've seen them in stock on Epson's website since I got my projector about 9 months ago, I should jump while I can.


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## jaredmwright

You can use code R95FT at checkout to get 10% off when ordering a bulb right now. I am on the fence about ordering one since I am under 1000 hrs. Will probably wait until after 1000 hrs and then consider picking up a spare. Good to hear @RRF all of your detailed information, thanks for taking the time to share and test the OEM bulb compared to the factory bulb.


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## fredworld

SpedInFargo said:


> Been a long time since I've done much HTPC stuff and I'm confused about what display resolution I should be using in Windows with the 5050. I threw together a Win 10 box with a 1080-TI for a video card so I could play around with MadVR.
> 
> When I first hooked up the PC to the projector (through a Pioneer SC-LX701) it came up with a display of 1920x1080 by default. I have these other options: 4096x2160 or 3840x2160.
> 
> 4096 gives me a letterbox border on the top and bottom of my 16:9 screen which makes sense. 3840x2160 FEELS like it would make more sense (exactly 1920 * 2 and 1080 * 2) but when I select that resolution I have both a letterbox AND a pillarbox around the sides.
> 
> Do I need to something in the NVIDIA control panel to somehow "overscan" this to get rid of the borders?
> 
> Apologies for the basic question...


Have you tried the 1920x1080 setting? The 5050 is native 1080P and pixel shifts to display a "faux" 4K image when fed 4k.


----------



## biglen

SpedInFargo said:


> Been a long time since I've done much HTPC stuff and I'm confused about what display resolution I should be using in Windows with the 5050. I threw together a Win 10 box with a 1080-TI for a video card so I could play around with MadVR.
> 
> When I first hooked up the PC to the projector (through a Pioneer SC-LX701) it came up with a display of 1920x1080 by default. I have these other options: 4096x2160 or 3840x2160.
> 
> 4096 gives me a letterbox border on the top and bottom of my 16:9 screen which makes sense. 3840x2160 FEELS like it would make more sense (exactly 1920 * 2 and 1080 * 2) but when I select that resolution I have both a letterbox AND a pillarbox around the sides.
> 
> Do I need to something in the NVIDIA control panel to somehow "overscan" this to get rid of the borders?
> 
> Apologies for the basic question...


This is what I have my HTPC set to.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## SpedInFargo

biglen said:


> This is what I have my HTPC set to.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks - I'll play around with it then. I haven't even launched the Nvidia control panel on it yet, so I'll go there next.

@fredworld, it does fill the whole screen when I choose 1920x1080, but I'm not sure what that would do to my 4k videos when I play them - would those be essentially down converted to 1080p before being sent to the projector?


----------



## mon2479

fredworld said:


> I just ordered a ELPLP89 lamp from the Epson website. As of this writing, they are in stock.


I just ordered mine!! Once I get mine, I'll swap out bulbs, my original has 210hrs, this will be my back up.


----------



## RRF

jaredmwright said:


> You can use code R95FT at checkout to get 10% off when ordering a bulb right now. I am on the fence about ordering one since I am under 1000 hrs. Will probably wait until after 1000 hrs and then consider picking up a spare. Good to hear @RRF all of your detailed information, thanks for taking the time to share and test the OEM bulb compared to the factory bulb.


NP...I was not about to put a faulty lamp in my new projector, and I had already returned one for very low output. I even used a temp gun to compare operating temperatures.
Epson Canada's lamp would cost me $497CAN delivered. Ordering from the US would have been $490CAN + shipping MyProjectorLamps Canada came to $178CAN with the 10% discount.


----------



## fredworld

SpedInFargo said:


> Thanks - I'll play around with it then. I haven't even launched the Nvidia control panel on it yet, so I'll go there next.
> 
> @fredworld, it does fill the whole screen when I choose 1920x1080, but I'm not sure what that would do to my 4k videos when I play them - would those be essentially down converted to 1080p before being sent to the projector?


If you're saying that your PC, when set to 1920/1080 to sync with the Epson, might downrez 4k content that it's sending, I'm afraid I don't have an answer for that. You can check USER>INFO>PROJECTOR INFO in the PJ's MENU to see what resolution the Epson is receiving. However, if the signal is going through your Pioneer AVR, depending on the settings in the Pioneer, then the AVR could be upconverting the PC's 1920/1080 signal to 3840/2160 and the Epson's USER screen will show 3840/2160 as the resolution.

Alternatively, you can connect the PC direct to the PJ (bypassing the AVR) then check the USER screen for the resolution that the PJ is receiving from the PC. If the PC is sending 4k then 3840/2160 will show in the USER screen. If the PC is downrezing 4k to 1920/1080, then 1920/1080 will show in the USER screen.

If the PC or AVR is outputting a 4k signal (either native 4K or upconverted 1920/1080 to 4k), the 5050 will accept the 4k signal, take half of the 8 million pixels and send half of what's left to one of the 1080p panels and the other half to another 1080p panel but shift each batch of pixels so that human eyes will essentially be seeing both simultaneoulsy thus simulating 4k resolution. That's my layman's understanding of how the 5050 handles 4k signals..


----------



## nefrina

i just wanted to take a minute and gather my thoughts here for anyone that might also be considering upgrading to the 5050/6050. prior to seeing what the 6050 is capable of IRL, i was very satisfied with what i had. the epson home cinema 2150 offers an incredible value for the image it's capable of throwing. that said, here are my thoughts after a few days of having the Epson 6050UB setup in my room.

_[for reference, i tested the projector predominantly in dynamic mode at full lamp power. i am throwing 19'_+ _away from a 160", low gain white over black spandex screen. i'm not concerned about color accuracy being slightly off for using dynamic mode (i'm partially color blind as is). bright cinema is just not nearly "punchy" enough for me (my preference). dynamic is incredible for my room & setup. however, if that means chewing through lamps a little faster, so be it!]_

*Pros:
- image processing:* Wow! i thought my diy spandex screen material may have been holding the quality of my projector back--nope! it's literally some kind of magic that the 6050 is performing to the source material. night & day difference here.

*- color:* while i've always thought of the 2150 as very colorful, the 6050 takes it to the next level (possibly further?). the colors feel like they're so vivid & dynamic that they're jumping off the screen. immersion is greatly increased here and between this and the image processing you feel way more connected to what you're seeing.

*- contrast/black level:* this is what everyone wants to know huh? i will be brutally honest here. my room is in a basement with full light control. walls, ceiling, riser, equipment rack, all wrapped in black velvet fabric (scope masking panels too). are the blacks better? yes, undoubtedly. are they 5x better (cost of 2150 vs 6050)? no. how much better? in my room, they are noticeably better, however not quite as extreme of an upgrade as i was expecting them to be for what this unit costs. i suppose that's more the limitation of the technology of the projector. blacks & contrast are *greatly *improved, but still not where i would quite like them to be.

*- sharpness: *holy hell this projector produces a sharp image! i think this has more to do with the image processing than anything but i am very impressed with this.

*- fan noise:* i noticed that the fan noise seems to be variable in that when there's a bright image being thrown, the fan will speed up and increase in noise output, and slow down & quiet when the image is darker. it's marginally quieter than the 2150 when comparing both at maximum fan speed/noise.

*- lumen output: *although this projector is only rated 2600 lumens i'm going to call BS on that. the 2150 is rated at 2500 (very close on paper), however the 6050 is substantially brighter in dynamic mode. my 2150 has ~900 hours on the original lamp and has never produced an image this bright before. i've read that the 5050/6050 is closer to 3100 ansi lumens in dynamic, and this sounds more accurate to me.

*- superfluous extras:* motorized lens & lens-cover, far nicer remote (and backlit), 4k/hdr capable, infinitely more picture adjustments, looks better when off.


*Cons:
- cost:* without going into specifics, there is a chasm of difference in cost between the two units. quite literally an entry-level & flagship model from the same company.

*- fan noise: *i wish the 5050/6050 fan noise were reduced in high lamp mode.

*- replacement lamp cost:* no brainer here. the 5050/6050 is 6x the cost for a spare lamp vs the 2150.

*- larger/heavier:* the 5050/6050 is enormous in comparison to my 2150, and almost 4x the weight. a real consideration when planning where to install/mount the projector.


i went into this review expecting not to fall in love with this thing considering how satisfied i was already with my 2150. i know some people will roll their eyes at me saying this, but for the money, in a full light controlled/black velvet room, it manages to produce an extremely good image per dollar spent. however, each time i have fired up the 6050 i have fallen further in love with it. this thing produces an excellent image with very respectable black levels, with colors that pop off the screen. the difference is enough that i feel like i now need to re-watch any movie worth a damn. it's literally the same feeling i had after upgrading to my JTR Captivator 4000ulf subwoofer---the need to re-watch content to experience what bass is supposed to sound & feel like (same idea).

unfortunately i'm not in a position to grab one myself right now. i think a 5050 is more my speed if i can snag one the next time there's a sale though.

fantastic projector, highly recommend.


----------



## Luminated67

@serith your comments about the blacks surprise me a little bit then again I haven’t seen the 2150 before so can’t really comment either way. Though I haven’t seen both side by side I have compared my TW9400 (6050) against a JVC 5900 in very similar rooms (both velvet covered) same movie and only 25 mins apart viewing and to be honest the JVC didn’t look night and day different and to be honest when I switched to the grey screen I would say the difference was way smaller again.

When I take a photo of an image on my screen I try very hard to match the view I see with my eyes and my blacks are now first rate.









Took this from Sin City last night.


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> @serith your comments about the blacks surprise me a little bit then again I haven’t seen the 2150 before so can’t really comment either way. Though I haven’t seen both side by side I have compared my TW9400 (6050) against a JVC 5900 in very similar rooms (both velvet covered) same movie and only 25 mins apart viewing and to be honest the JVC didn’t look night and day different and to be honest when I switched to the grey screen I would say the difference was way smaller again.
> 
> When I take a photo of an image on my screen I try very hard to match the view I see with my eyes and my blacks are now first rate.
> 
> View attachment 3096404
> 
> Took this from Sin City last night.


Can I get a full image of your room with some lights so I understand how the room looks? I am going darker and darker in my room and it is good to get som inspiration.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Luminated67 said:


> @serith your comments about the blacks surprise me a little bit then again I haven’t seen the 2150 before so can’t really comment either way. Though I haven’t seen both side by side I have compared my TW9400 (6050) against a JVC 5900 in very similar rooms (both velvet covered) same movie and only 25 mins apart viewing and to be honest the JVC didn’t look night and day different and to be honest when I switched to the grey screen I would say the difference was way smaller again.
> 
> When I take a photo of an image on my screen I try very hard to match the view I see with my eyes and my blacks are now first rate.
> 
> View attachment 3096404
> 
> Took this from Sin City last night.


Wow,i wish i could get blacks that black.. Mine are dark grey,better than on sony,but still a lot lighter than the border of my cima neve screen.. I will install a new black carpet soon,but i cant blacken my ceiling which is whitewashed pine. My walls are painted charcoal matte..
I would also like to see how your room is treated to achieve blacks that deep..
That looks stunning


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Can I get a full image of your room with some lights so I understand how the room looks? I am going darker and darker in my room and it is good to get som inspiration.


----------



## Luminated67

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Wow,i wish i could get blacks that black.. Mine are dark grey,better than on sony,but still a lot lighter than the border of my cima neve screen.. I will install a new black carpet soon,but i cant blacken my ceiling which is whitewashed pine. My walls are painted charcoal matte..
> I would also like to see how your room is treated to achieve blacks that deep..
> That looks stunning


I did a bit on my journey to get the room the way you see it and the black as dark as they on AVForum

Here’s the link to my room

This is the borders I use to have on my white 16:9 but the switch to the grey 2.35:1 even on Sin City which was 16:9 you can’t see the side borders difference at all.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Blacking out the front of my room seems to be the next great frontier for me. My wife has reluctantly given the approval since she likes me and knows I care about this a lot, maybe too much lol. But, she'd prefer to keep the aesthetic we have. The theater has become our reading room because it's actually calming and so stinkin' quiet. She doesn't think she'd like it as much as a half black pit 😬


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> Blacking out the front of my room seems to be the next great frontier for me. My wife has reluctantly given the approval since she likes me and knows I care about this a lot, maybe too much lol. But, she'd prefer to keep the aesthetic we have. The theater has become our reading room because it's actually calming and so stinkin' quiet. She doesn't think she'd like it as much as a half black pit 😬


Sounds to me like you need a "calming...stinkin' quiet" reading room in another part of the house.🤔📐🛠


----------



## Luminated67

PixelPusher15 said:


> Blacking out the front of my room seems to be the next great frontier for me. My wife has reluctantly given the approval since she likes me and knows I care about this a lot, maybe too much lol. But, she'd prefer to keep the aesthetic we have. The theater has become our reading room because it's actually calming and so stinkin' quiet. She doesn't think she'd like it as much as a half black pit 😬


You could do a wrap around black velvet curtain that you pull out 6-8ft from the screen wall and then push back when not in use.

Based on my own experience I found doing the ceiling had a greater affect of contrast compared to the sides and the same with the black rugs. And remember my whole room ceiling included was originally dark grey paint not white as most often is the case.


----------



## Zedekias

serith said:


> i just wanted to take a minute and gather my thoughts here for anyone that might also be considering upgrading to the 5050/6050. prior to seeing what the 6050 is capable of IRL, i was very satisfied with what i had. the epson home cinema 2150 offers an incredible value for the image it's capable of throwing. that said, here are my thoughts after a few days of having the Epson 6050UB setup in my room.
> 
> _[for reference, i tested the projector predominantly in dynamic mode at full lamp power. i am throwing 19'_+ _away from a 160", low gain white over black spandex screen. i'm not concerned about color accuracy being slightly off for using dynamic mode (i'm partially color blind as is). bright cinema is just not nearly "punchy" enough for me (my preference). dynamic is incredible for my room & setup. however, if that means chewing through lamps a little faster, so be it!]_
> 
> *Pros:
> - image processing:* Wow! i thought my diy spandex screen material may have been holding the quality of my projector back--nope! it's literally some kind of magic that the 6050 is performing to the source material. night & day difference here.
> 
> *- color:* while i've always thought of the 2150 as very colorful, the 6050 takes it to the next level (possibly further?). the colors feel like they're so vivid & dynamic that they're jumping off the screen. immersion is greatly increased here and between this and the image processing you feel way more connected to what you're seeing.
> 
> *- contrast/black level:* this is what everyone wants to know huh? i will be brutally honest here. my room is in a basement with full light control. walls, ceiling, riser, equipment rack, all wrapped in black velvet fabric (scope masking panels too). are the blacks better? yes, undoubtedly. are they 5x better (cost of 2150 vs 6050)? no. how much better? in my room, they are noticeably better, however not quite as extreme of an upgrade as i was expecting them to be for what this unit costs. i suppose that's more the limitation of the technology of the projector. blacks & contrast are *greatly *improved, but still not where i would quite like them to be.
> 
> *- sharpness: *holy hell this projector produces a sharp image! i think this has more to do with the image processing than anything but i am very impressed with this.
> 
> *- fan noise:* i noticed that the fan noise seems to be variable in that when there's a bright image being thrown, the fan will speed up and increase in noise output, and slow down & quiet when the image is darker. it's marginally quieter than the 2150 when comparing both at maximum fan speed/noise.
> 
> *- lumen output: *although this projector is only rated 2600 lumens i'm going to call BS on that. the 2150 is rated at 2500 (very close on paper), however the 6050 is substantially brighter in dynamic mode. my 2150 has ~900 hours on the original lamp and has never produced an image this bright before. i've read that the 5050/6050 is closer to 3100 ansi lumens in dynamic, and this sounds more accurate to me.
> 
> *- superfluous extras:* motorized lens & lens-cover, far nicer remote (and backlit), 4k/hdr capable, infinitely more picture adjustments, looks better when off.
> 
> 
> *Cons:
> - cost:* without going into specifics, there is a chasm of difference in cost between the two units. quite literally an entry-level & flagship model from the same company.
> 
> *- fan noise: *i wish the 5050/6050 fan noise were reduced in high lamp mode.
> 
> *- replacement lamp cost:* no brainer here. the 5050/6050 is 6x the cost for a spare lamp vs the 2150.
> 
> *- larger/heavier:* the 5050/6050 is enormous in comparison to my 2150, and almost 4x the weight. a real consideration when planning where to install/mount the projector.
> 
> 
> i went into this review expecting not to fall in love with this thing considering how satisfied i was already with my 2150. i know some people will roll their eyes at me saying this, but for the money, in a full light controlled/black velvet room, it manages to produce an extremely good image per dollar spent. however, each time i have fired up the 6050 i have fallen further in love with it. this thing produces an excellent image with very respectable black levels, with colors that pop off the screen. the difference is enough that i feel like i now need to re-watch any movie worth a damn. it's literally the same feeling i had after upgrading to my JTR Captivator 4000ulf subwoofer---the need to re-watch content to experience what bass is supposed to sound & feel like (same idea).
> 
> unfortunately i'm not in a position to grab one myself right now. i think a 5050 is more my speed if i can snag one the next time there's a sale though.
> 
> fantastic projector, highly recommend.


Details on your 160" spandex screen? I thought for the most part there was a limit to 120"-130". Or did you use the massive 120" material? I've heard that material isn't ideal for a screen. But I am really curious to know about yours! 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Luminated67 said:


> You could do a wrap around black velvet curtain that you pull out 6-8ft from the screen wall and then push back when not in use.
> 
> Based on my own experience I found doing the ceiling had a greater affect of contrast compared to the sides and the same with the black rugs. And remember my whole room ceiling included was originally dark grey paint not white as most often is the case.


She just poo poo'd the curtain aesthetic. Actually prefers solid velvet walls if she had to pick. 🤷‍♂️ 

That's an interesting note about the ceiling. My ceiling right now is pretty dark, but I can definitely see reflections coming off of it. I think my sidewalls are hurting a lot too. In 16:9 format my ceiling is 6" away from the screen and my walls are 9". I've heard the back wall is a big reflector too and I think I'll just have to accept that I can't cover that in velvet. Have you done your back wall?


----------



## Luminated67

PixelPusher15 said:


> She just poo poo'd the curtain aesthetic. Actually prefers solid velvet walls if she had to pick. 🤷‍♂️
> 
> That's an interesting note about the ceiling. My ceiling right now is pretty dark, but I can definitely see reflections coming off of it. I think my sidewalls are hurting a lot too. In 16:9 format my ceiling is 6" away from the screen and my walls are 9". I've heard the back wall is a big reflector too and I think I'll just have to accept that I can't cover that in velvet. Have you done your back wall?


It’s about to get done very soon, I’ve ordered more of the self adhesive velour to finish the job.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Luminated67 said:


> I did a bit on my journey to get the room the way you see it and the black as dark as they on AVForum
> 
> Here’s the link to my room
> 
> This is the borders I use to have on my white 16:9 but the switch to the grey 2.35:1 even on Sin City which was 16:9 you can’t see the side borders difference at all.
> 
> View attachment 3096458


Very nice. Did you glue the velour or stable it? I got a lot of heavy scene molton fabric left over from making curtains, would that do, or what kind of velour did you use?


----------



## nefrina

Zedekias said:


> Details on your 160" spandex screen? I thought for the most part there was a limit to 120"-130". Or did you use the massive 120" material? I've heard that material isn't ideal for a screen. But I am really curious to know about yours!


yes there is a size limit if you use the 60" tall material (my 140" 16:9 screen was right at that limit). you guessed correctly, i'm using the 120" material now (black is from rosebrand, white from spandexworld). new size is roughly ~148" scope with masking, 160" 16:9 without. it's extremely immersive and i can never go back to something smaller again. screen to eyeballs is about 13'.


----------



## Luminated67

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Very nice. Did you glue the velour or stable it? I got a lot of heavy scene molton fabric left over from making curtains, would that do, or what kind of velour did you use?


The stuff I used is self adhesive which you peel the back off and stick directly to the surface. Shockingly sticky so need to take your time not you get wrinkles as once stuck it can’t be redone.


----------



## Luminated67

serith said:


> yes there is a size limit if you use the 60" tall material (my 140" 16:9 screen was right at that limit). you guessed correctly, i'm using the 120" material now (black is from rosebrand, white from spandexworld). new size is roughly ~148" scope with masking, 160" 16:9 without. it's extremely immersive and i can never go back to something smaller again. screen to eyeballs is about 13'.
> 
> View attachment 3096567
> 
> 
> View attachment 3096564


Get yourself a black rug to fill the width of the screen and out about 5-6ft, I did this and the viewing experience is amazing as you only see the screen and nothing else.


----------



## rekbones

rekbones said:


> Just got ship notification on my refurbed this morning, ordered on Friday. Praying to the lottery gods I get a good one. My SVS PB2000 went up in smoke this morning so I now have a replacement PS on the way for it. The fun never ends. BenQ HT3550 is failing also so thats most likely going to be RMA'ed before I try to sell it.


Well so far so good, my 5050 refurbed looks like new 0h on the lamp total hours is 9h with just two lamp replacements. No sign of any dust blobs, dead pixels or odd picture smearing. Defiantly brighter then anything I have had in here before, so a lot of experimenting and tweaking to do. Contrast is not up to my JVC but darn close.


----------



## Zedekias

serith said:


> yes there is a size limit if you use the 60" tall material (my 140" 16:9 screen was right at that limit). you guessed correctly, i'm using the 120" material now (black is from rosebrand, white from spandexworld). new size is roughly ~148" scope with masking, 160" 16:9 without. it's extremely immersive and i can never go back to something smaller again. screen to eyeballs is about 13'.
> 
> View attachment 3096567
> 
> 
> View attachment 3096564


That looks incredible. I have a 150" Carl's screen that I'd eventually like to replace or paint. No issues with yours when it comes to sharpness or anything? I've heard the larger material has moire or some other kind of visual defect. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## nefrina

Luminated67 said:


> Get yourself a black rug to fill the width of the screen and out about 5-6ft, I did this and the viewing experience is amazing as you only see the screen and nothing else.


i had black velvet on the floor covering the carpeting 8' out from the screen for the "floating screen" experience. it was nice but i like the exposed carpeting better (blasphemy, right?).



Zedekias said:


> That looks incredible. I have a 150" Carl's screen that I'd eventually like to replace or paint. No issues with yours when it comes to sharpness or anything? I've heard the larger material has moire or some other kind of visual defect.


thanks! no issues at all, other than the gain being lower than i'd like. it's EXTREMELY sharp with the 6050. i thought it was the screen material limiting me with the 2150, but it was the projector 100%. the image looks incredible for how little it costs to build the screen. i have went through at least a half dozen different screens, all had their own imperfections. if there were anything that bothered me with this one, it wouldn't still be on the wall being used.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

ELPLP89 Is finally in stock at Epson. Get em while they’re hot. I’ve been checking the page daily since the start of the year as I don’t trust any of the refurb units or knock offs on Amazon.






V13H010L89 | ELPLP89 Replacement Projector Lamp / Bulb | Projector Accessories | Accessories | Epson US


The genuine Epson ELPLP89 ultra high efficiency (UHE) projector lamp is designed to replace the original genuine Epson projector lamp. This projector lamp is user-replaceable; refer to your projector's manual for installation instructions for this replacement lamp.




epson.com


----------



## RRF

SpedInFargo said:


> Thanks - I'll play around with it then. I haven't even launched the Nvidia control panel on it yet, so I'll go there next.
> 
> @fredworld, it does fill the whole screen when I choose 1920x1080, but I'm not sure what that would do to my 4k videos when I play them - would those be essentially down converted to 1080p before being sent to the projector?


My Vero4K+ media player does the same. Upon boot it determines 1920*1080p as the optimal resolution and downscales 4K files. Boot log shows several entries similar to
"Found resolution 1920 x 1080 with 3840 x 2160 @ 60.000000 Hz"
It appears to pick VIC 16 (1920*1080p 59.94Hz/60Hz) as the default from the Epson's EDID even though all the 4K VICs are listed. Once I change the Vero4K+ to 3840*2160 it passes 4K to the projector just fine...but it then it will also upscale any 2K files to 4K. With my 4K native display, the player passes both types as is to the display.


----------



## Luminated67

rekbones said:


> Well so far so good, my 5050 refurbed looks like new 0h on the lamp total hours is 9h with just two lamp replacements. No sign of any dust blobs, dead pixels or odd picture smearing. Defiantly brighter then anything I have had in here before, so a lot of experimenting and tweaking to do. *Contrast is not up to my JVC but darn close*.


That was my assessment when I compared both but when I switched to the grey screen I reckon it’s remarkably close to the 5900 now, of course the 7900 is still in another level but I honestly found the JVC’s e-shift softened the image compared to the Epson. I have had the dosh set aside to get either an N5 or N7 and I still can’t bring myself to make the switch because the Epson is that good, especially when you feed it with a top quality source.


----------



## rekbones

Luminated67 said:


> That was my assessment when I compared both but when I switched to the grey screen I reckon it’s remarkably close to the 5900 now, of course the 7900 is still in another level but I honestly found the JVC’s e-shift softened the image compared to the Epson. I have had the dish set aside to get either an N5 or N7 and I still can’t bring myself to make the switch because the Epson is that good, especially when you feed it with a top quality source.


I haven't had nearly enough time with it and need a lot more evaluation. It doesn't compare to the JVC in things like rolling white credits where the JVC's background is inky black but who cares about the credits. Power lens memory is very unstable compared to the JVC's rock solid stability but I kind of expected that. Trying to calibrate white /black level I am getting a lot of white clipping and the contrast control is ineffective at even coming close to correcting it. The big plus for me is all the extra lumens that my old JVC and newer BenQ can't even come close to competing with. I am running echo digital cinema and it's still brighter then anything I am use to.


----------



## Luminated67

rekbones said:


> I haven't had nearly enough time with it and need a lot more evaluation. It doesn't compare to the JVC in things like rolling white credits where the JVC's background is inky black but who cares about the credits. Power lens memory is very unstable compared to the JVC's rock solid stability but I kind of expected that. Trying to calibrate white /black level I am getting a lot of white clipping and the contrast control is ineffective at even coming close to correcting it. The big plus for me is all the extra lumens that my old JVC and newer BenQ can't even come close to competing with. I am running echo digital cinema and it's still brighter then anything I am use to.


I think a lot of my experience with the Epson comes from a professional calibration, Gordon is a wizard when it comes to calibrating and the job he did on mine is quite magical.


----------



## svusa

Hi

I thought would ask quick question as I haven’t played with Epson’s settings much. Out of the box, picture looks dim, yellow tinted and not close to dynamic vibrant colors of epson mentioned by others.

My source for now is Hulu n YouTube through laptop so I don’t expect best quality but what I saw last night was not worth the money.

that said, could you recommend some settings to play around with? As specially I hate Yellow tinted images, I prefer more of blueish white.

any thoughts what could have gone wrong?


----------



## PixelPusher15

svusa said:


> Hi
> 
> I thought would ask quick question as I haven’t played with Epson’s settings much. Out of the box, picture looks dim, yellow tinted and not close to dynamic vibrant colors of epson mentioned by others.
> 
> My source for now is Hulu n YouTube through laptop so I don’t expect best quality but what I saw last night was not worth the money.
> 
> that said, could you recommend some settings to play around with? As specially I hate Yellow tinted images, I prefer more of blueish white.
> 
> any thoughts what could have gone wrong?
> View attachment 3096779
> View attachment 3096781


It sure does look like you’re projecting on a wall that isn’t neutral. Is that some sort of grey? Maybe a warm grey paint?

I can tell you right now that with that floor, sidewall and ceiling the image is going to be washed out by reflections. As of right now your room isn’t set up to take advantage of the 5050. It can be, but not right now.

Also, any yellow can be calibrated out as long as you are projecting on something close to neutral. (Even something slightly not neutral too) try the color temp slider.


----------



## svusa

PixelPusher15 said:


> It sure does look like you’re projecting on a wall that isn’t neutral. Is that some sort of grey? Maybe a warm grey paint?
> 
> I can tell you right now that with that floor, sidewall and ceiling the image is going to be washed out by reflections. As of right now your room isn’t set up to take advantage of the 5050. It can be, but not right now.
> 
> Also, any yellow can be calibrated out as long as you are projecting on something close to neutral. (Even something slightly not neutral too) try the color temp slider.


that’s correct, projecting on a wall that’s treated with gray paint.

eventually, I do plan to paint ceiling black and add side curtains.

is there anything that would make color more cool tone besides Temp?


----------



## fredworld

svusa said:


> that’s correct, projecting on a wall that’s treated with gray paint.
> 
> eventually, I do plan to paint ceiling black and add side curtains.
> 
> is there anything that would make color more cool tone besides Temp?


I agree with PixelPusher15, except since moving from a gray screen to a white one, I'm now a big fan of white. I don't recommend relying on the posted settings of others as there are far too many variables involved among room set up, light control, personal taste, etc. 
Purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc was one of the best investments I made at $40 for my display but since you rely on a laptop as a source, I'd recommend getting a UHD BluRay player like the Panasonic UB420 to use with the disc. The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm just about spot on with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs and the blue filter from the disc. Most of the patterns are for "evaluation only" while a few are specifically for adjusting user controls. It's those few that I return to for tweaking, mainly, Brightness, Contrast and Color/Tint, and for further fine tuning, judicious use of the HDR slider of the 5050 or my Panasonic player. Some experimentation of the projector's GAMMA setting is necessary. I settled on -2 in Digital Cinema mode then proceeded to finalize my "calibration." Depending on source material I find that I might need only to move BRIGHTNESS or (if UHD) the HDR slider a notch or two, +or-, to achieve quite pleasing satisfactory results.
The *Getting Started Guide* on the S&M website is worth taking the time to read through and once one gets the basic understanding for the actual adjusting it only takes about 10-15 minutes to "calibrate." It doesn't replace a professional calibration but the highly satisfactory results I've gotten have discouraged me from pursuing one. My set-up is relatively conservative in screen size. Perhaps if my screen was as large as some on this forum I might feel otherwise about a pro-cal.


----------



## PixelPusher15

svusa said:


> that’s correct, projecting on a wall that’s treated with gray paint.
> 
> eventually, I do plan to paint ceiling black and add side curtains.
> 
> is there anything that would make color more cool tone besides Temp?


Color temp is the easiest/fastest way other than calibrating the color management system. I would just mess around with the color temp setting until you get a real screen or screen paint.


----------



## Luminated67

@svusa I wonder is the issue a combination of your PC and paint that’s the cause of your colour temp off, maybe it’s the display card in the laptop?


----------



## RRF

svusa said:


> Hi
> 
> I thought would ask quick question as I haven’t played with Epson’s settings much. Out of the box, picture looks dim, yellow tinted and not close to dynamic vibrant colors of epson mentioned by others.
> 
> My source for now is Hulu n YouTube through laptop so I don’t expect best quality but what I saw last night was not worth the money.
> 
> that said, could you recommend some settings to play around with? As specially I hate Yellow tinted images, I prefer more of blueish white.
> 
> any thoughts what could have gone wrong?
> View attachment 3096779
> View attachment 3096781


In those pictures, what lamp power (Eco, Medium, High) and color mode (Natural, Bright Cinema, Dynamic etc.) are being used?
Dynamic is not accurate and has a significant color shift. Color temp in Natural mode measures a bit higher than the setting...6500K measures at closer to 6800K. Also check that the Iris setting is at 0. You may want to do a full reset. 
Your pictures show a uniformity issue. It can be corrected using the built in Uniformity controls, but I would not recommend trying to adjust it yourself, or without a calibration meter. 
You might try reducing the image size to see if being too close to the sidewall is causing some of it.


----------



## svusa

Thanks Fredworld, PP15, Luminated, RRF.

I will follow your recommendation. Laptop source is definitely an issue, I plugged in apple TV and it looks visibly better, though there is a definitely an opportunity to make it shine even better.

Let me try to play with few settings and see how much difference it makes.

Also, if anyone has recommendation for a professional calibration in NJ area will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Mansfieldstake

I just unboxed my new 5050ub. I followed the Quick Setup instructions by connecting my laptop to HDMI port 1, plugged in the projector, and then powered it on. The blue power light illuminates, the shutter opens but then immediately closes again. The blue Status light flashes continuously as do both of the orange Lamp and Temp lights. The fan runs on what sounds like a high setting for about 20 seconds and then shuts off. The user manual indicates that this combination of lights calls for the projector to be unplugged and to call Epson for help. 

Epson customer service is currently closed until Monday morning. Any ideas what might be wrong?


----------



## RRF

Manual says Auto Iris or Cinema Filter error.
Both are mechanically operated.
My guess is shipping damage. Any damage to the carton or internal packaging? Was it factory sesled?


----------



## Mansfieldstake

RRF said:


> Manual says Auto Iris or Cinema Filter error.
> Both are mechanically operated.
> My guess is shipping damage. Any damage to the carton or internal packaging? Was it factory sesled?


Thanks for the reply.
I can't find any damage to the shipping box or internal packaging. It is one of the refurbished models from Epson's website. 
Do you think I'll need a replacement unit or can this type of error/issue potentially be fixed when I speak to Epson on the phone?


----------



## biglen

Mansfieldstake said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> I can't find any damage to the shipping box or internal packaging. It is one of the refurbished models from Epson's website.
> Do you think I'll need a replacement unit or can this type of error/issue potentially be fixed when I speak to Epson on the phone?


I'd be shocked if it was fixed over the phone. Unfortunately, that's the risk of a refurb. I'm not saying issues haven't happened with brand new units, but a refurb probably increases your chances for a problem. They're cheaper for a reason. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Mansfieldstake

biglen said:


> I'd be shocked if it was fixed over the phone. Unfortunately, that's the risk of a refurb. I'm not saying issues haven't happened with brand new units, but a refurb probably increases your chances for a problem. They're cheaper for a reason.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks. Sounds like a replacement unit is in my future. You're right about the increased risk with a refurb. I knew that going in, but was obviously hoping it would be better than dead on arrival. I'll try one replacement unit and if there's an issue with that one too, I'll likely just go for a brand new one.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Mansfieldstake said:


> Thanks. Sounds like a replacement unit is in my future. You're right about the increased risk with a refurb. I knew that going in, but was obviously hoping it would be better than dead on arrival. I'll try one replacement unit and if there's an issue with that one too, I'll likely just go for a brand new one.


If you got the refurb through Epson then you can’t return it. You just gotta keep cycling through refurbs. I think I’ve seen around #5 they might get tired of sending you refurbs and send a new one lol. I’ve also heard that when the refurbs are in short supply you might get a new one, but I wouldn’t plan on it.


----------



## RRF

biglen said:


> I'd be shocked if it was fixed over the phone. Unfortunately, that's the risk of a refurb. I'm not saying issues haven't happened with brand new units, but a refurb probably increases your chances for a problem. They're cheaper for a reason.


I would be very surprised if they can talk you through fixing it...but if they do, be sure to pass along the steps they use, so others can reference them.


----------



## hehateme

I just got a new 5050ub. The picture looks incredible as compared with my bend w6000.

I like the lens memory feature. Being able to switch between 16:9 and 2:35 is awesome.

I am still reading the manual. I found the projector to be more noisy than my previous projector.

I need to replace my hdmi cable. I need a high quality hdmi cable that can pass 4K from receiver to the projector. Let me know if there is a hdmi cable that worked well for you


----------



## PixelPusher15

hehateme said:


> I just got a new 5050ub. The picture looks incredible as compared with my bend w6000.
> 
> I like the lens memory feature. Being able to switch between 16:9 and 2:35 is awesome.
> 
> I am still reading the manual. I found the projector to be more noisy than my previous projector.
> 
> I need to replace my hdmi cable. I need a high quality hdmi cable that can pass 4K from receiver to the projector. Let me know if there is a hdmi cable that worked well for you


How long of an HDMI run do you need?


----------



## biglen

hehateme said:


> I just got a new 5050ub. The picture looks incredible as compared with my bend w6000.
> 
> I like the lens memory feature. Being able to switch between 16:9 and 2:35 is awesome.
> 
> I am still reading the manual. I found the projector to be more noisy than my previous projector.
> 
> I need to replace my hdmi cable. I need a high quality hdmi cable that can pass 4K from receiver to the projector. Let me know if there is a hdmi cable that worked well for you


Don't get caught up in those overpriced cables on Amazon. There's no need to spend $120 on a cable. I'm using a Series-3A HDMI cable from Blue Jeans Cables, which is 35ft, and it was $53. It has worked flawlessly with my 5050, for over 2 years. 



HDMI Cable from Blue Jeans Cable



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## hehateme

PixelPusher15 said:


> How long of an HDMI run do you need?


20 feet long cable. My current cable is 10 year old monoprice cable.

my projector died and I got a new one.This has started the equipment upgrade cycle. I need a new hdmi cable. Fortunately I have a tech tube so I can pull new wire. Receiver is 10 year olds anthem MRX-700. I just bought a hdmi switch so I can bypass the receiver that does not support 4K. Hoping it will be good enough. Blu-ray player is also 10 year olds oppo. Replacing it with Panasonic 4K player.

for cables I am struggling with these decisions:

get 4K or 8k
No one make copper hdmi 8k cables over 16 ft yet
get Copper or fiber optics cable
It turns out the I can buy 8k fiber optics cable with can go well over 20 feet.
My projector is only 4K and is not native 4K so leaning towards hdmi 2.0 18gbps cable


----------



## PixelPusher15

I'm using a Amazon Basics CL3 15 foot cable with no issues whatsoever. I also used a 25' version but wasn't sure if I was getting [email protected], it's for an office tv so I didn't really care. Native or not native, you are going to be sending it [email protected] so the cable needs to support it. 20' is the point things can get hairy depending on what's between the devices. That being said, I've got 2 keystone jacks, 1 three-foot Monoprice cable, the 15' Amazon Basics CL3 HDMI cable, and a thin 6' HDMI cable that was included with my Roku Ultra between my Denon x3700h receiver and my Epson 5050. That's 24' plus 2 off-brand couplers and I have no issues. I wouldn't go buying fancy fiber optic cables or anything else before trying a $15-30 cable from Amazon. Here's the 15' version of the cable I have but the 25' is out of stock:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=amazonbasics+hdmi&qid=1614540145&s=electronics&sr=1-9&th=1
Monoprice is a safe try too:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MAZ9VSN/ref=twister_B07JB6CHXT



I definitely wouldn't worry about 8k yet. We are pretty far off from 8K projectors (psst.... your new Epson isn't even native 4k lol).


----------



## Mansfieldstake

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you got the refurb through Epson then you can’t return it. You just gotta keep cycling through refurbs. I think I’ve seen around #5 they might get tired of sending you refurbs and send a new one lol. I’ve also heard that when the refurbs are in short supply you might get a new one, but I wouldn’t plan on it.


You're right, I do remember reading that now. Thanks for the reminder. Hopefully, I'll get lucky with the next one.



RRF said:


> I would be very surprised if they can talk you through fixing it...but if they do, be sure to pass along the steps they use, so others can reference them.


Absolutely. I'll follow up here with the resolution either way.


----------



## Mansfieldstake

Mansfieldstake said:


> You're right, I do remember reading that now. Thanks for the reminder. Hopefully, I'll get lucky with the next one.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely. I'll follow up here with the resolution either way.


Update: After speaking with Epson customer service, they determined it's a hardware failure issue. They are shipping a replacement unit today. Fingers crossed for a better unit.

Thanks to everyone who replied here with insight and recommendations.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

CinemacDaddy said:


> ELPLP89 Is finally in stock at Epson. Get em while they’re hot. I’ve been checking the page daily since the start of the year as I don’t trust any of the refurb units or knock offs on Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> V13H010L89 | ELPLP89 Replacement Projector Lamp / Bulb | Projector Accessories | Accessories | Epson US
> 
> 
> The genuine Epson ELPLP89 ultra high efficiency (UHE) projector lamp is designed to replace the original genuine Epson projector lamp. This projector lamp is user-replaceable; refer to your projector's manual for installation instructions for this replacement lamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> epson.com


Update: After checking stock daily since last year, I bought two bulbs on Friday while they were briefly in stock. Order is shown as "in process". Sunday night I get a call from my bank saying there was suspicious activity on my CC and they had to freeze and send out a new one. The Epson charge hasn't appeared yet so I updated my default card on file at Epson.com and called Epson support first thing this Monday morning to see if they could update the payment method on this order. Both the Rep and the Manager said there is no way to update the payment on file. They said the order doesn't bill until shipping and if the card used for the oder doesn't they won't, contact me, or try the new card on file just automatically cancel it. The bulb is out of stock again so I am SOL. Unbelievable. This is my third and last Epson projector. What good is a projector without replacement bulbs and no customer service?


----------



## PixelPusher15

CinemacDaddy said:


> Update: After checking stock daily since last year, I bought two bulbs on Friday while they were briefly in stock. Order is shown as "in process". Sunday night I get a call from my bank saying there was suspicious activity on my CC and they had to freeze and send out a new one. The Epson charge hasn't appeared yet so I updated my default card on file at Epson.com and called Epson support first thing this Monday morning to see if they could update the payment method on this order. Both the Rep and the Manager said there is no way to update the payment on file. They said the order doesn't bill until shipping and if the card used for the oder doesn't they won't, contact me, or try the new card on file just automatically cancel it. The bulb is out of stock again so I am SOL. Unbelievable. This is my third and last Epson projector. What good is a projector without replacement bulbs and no customer service?


That sucks dude. My guess is that their system simply just wasn't built to change payment after the fact. Not so much the reps fault as it is who built the system, which probably wasn't even Epson but a vendor. Covid is really messing with electronics. Not only has manufacturing been cut but people are using their stuff more, so bulbs are being churned through at a fast rate. 

The bulbs you bought are reserved and once the order gets cancelled they will probably sell them again. This might happen to more than just you. I've seen people use this site to detect when the 5050 refurb is in stock, you might want to try it for the bulb (I haven't used it so I can't tell you how to set it up tho): UptimeRobot | Free Website Monitoring


----------



## fredworld

fredworld said:


> You're welcome. I'm going to test the new lamp promptly upon receipt. If it's good to go, then I'll leave it in play and have my current 1100+ hour lamp as a spare. Then, if all goes well, at about 3000 hours I'll order a new lamp. I run on MEDIUM except for 3D when it's on HIGH, but that's rare.


The new Epson lamp arrived this morning. I was able to install it effortlessly. It works!!! My old lamp is now a back-up with 1,098 hours on it.
Some comments. Although the lamp was secure in its box, the shipping box was devoid of any protective packing. But the lamp seems fine. A useless cheap blade screwdriver was included. For now, I'm a happy camper.😃


----------



## C S

djsvetljo said:


> For any of you with firmware updates issues:
> Just did mine and I didn't see any of this posted - the projector takes over 1 minute to read/transfer the firmware file from flash drive. It helps a lot if your drive has activity LED. If it doesn't - be patient. The projector LEDs start flashing after the reading from drive is done and that also takes over a minute.


Does anyone have the link to where you can download the firmware update for the epson 6050? I’m looking everywhere online and can’t find it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RRF

hehateme said:


> 20 feet long cable. My current cable is 10 year old monoprice cable.
> 
> my projector died and I got a new one.This has started the equipment upgrade cycle. I need a new hdmi cable. Fortunately I have a tech tube so I can pull new wire. Receiver is 10 year olds anthem MRX-700. I just bought a hdmi switch so I can bypass the receiver that does not support 4K. Hoping it will be good enough. Blu-ray player is also 10 year olds oppo. Replacing it with Panasonic 4K player.
> 
> for cables I am struggling with these decisions:
> 
> get 4K or 8k
> No one make copper hdmi 8k cables over 16 ft yet
> get Copper or fiber optics cable
> It turns out the I can buy 8k fiber optics cable with can go well over 20 feet.
> My projector is only 4K and is not native 4K so leaning towards hdmi 2.0 18gbps cable


Don't count out old cables until you try them. I'm using 30ft. Monoprice cables from 2008 and they work for 4K HDR10 @ 60Hz.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

PixelPusher15 said:


> That sucks dude. My guess is that their system simply just wasn't built to change payment after the fact. Not so much the reps fault as it is who built the system, which probably wasn't even Epson but a vendor. Covid is really messing with electronics. Not only has manufacturing been cut but people are using their stuff more, so bulbs are being churned through at a fast rate.
> 
> The bulbs you bought are reserved and once the order gets cancelled they will probably sell them again. This might happen to more than just you. I've seen people use this site to detect when the 5050 refurb is in stock, you might want to try it for the bulb (I haven't used it so I can't tell you how to set it up tho): UptimeRobot | Free Website Monitoring


FML .. the saga continues. To rub salt in the wounds, turns out our CC card wasn't compromised after all. Receipts for two apple app purchases my wife forgot about came in overnight matching the charges the fraud department called us about. I spent 2 hours this morning on the phone with the bank getting transferred around trying to get them to unfreeze the card just so the in process Epson bulb order I placed on Friday would go through. No dice, card can't be reactivated and Epson can't change payment method for the order that hasn't yet billed / shipped.

One of the Epson support representatives recommended Compass Micro for the bulb. Apparently they are an Epson authorized supplier that provides reportedly authentic Epson bulbs as well as other internal PJ replacement parts. I found a few mentions of Compass Micro in this thread. They are cheaper at $250 vs $330, but terms and conditions say there are no returns on this "special order" item and they aren't responsible if it breaks in shipping. I went ahead and bought 1 from Compass Micro at $250.

Then I go back to Epson and see my order was finally cancelled when the payment from the old card didn't go through. Since my two bulbs were returned to inventory, they showed as in stock again. I ordered 1 direct from Epson this time as I can't cancel the Compass Micro order. There is still one in stock at Epson at this time of writing. At least now I will have an opportunity to compare the packaging / housing and relative brightness of the Epson and Compass Micro bulbs side by side.


----------



## Luminated67

RRF said:


> Don't count out old cables until you try them. I'm using 30ft. Monoprice cables from 2008 and they work for 4K HDR10 @ 60Hz.
> View attachment 3097656
> View attachment 3097654


If you happen to have one laying about then absolutely try it first but if you don’t then don’t chances the cheap route when you know for sure that Optical HDMI definitely works.


----------



## fredworld

C S said:


> Does anyone have the link to where you can download the firmware update for the epson 6050? I’m looking everywhere online and can’t find it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


*Here*. Look for Pro Cinema 6050UB.


----------



## fredworld

CinemacDaddy said:


> FML .. the saga continues. To rub salt in the wounds, turns out our CC card wasn't compromised after all. Receipts for two apple app purchases my wife forgot about came in overnight matching the charges the fraud department called us about. I spent 2 hours this morning on the phone with the bank getting transferred around trying to get them to unfreeze the card just so the in process Epson bulb order I placed on Friday would go through. No dice, card can't be reactivated and Epson can't change payment method for the order that hasn't yet billed / shipped.
> 
> One of the Epson support representatives recommended Compass Micro for the bulb. Apparently they are an Epson authorized supplier that provides reportedly authentic Epson bulbs as well as other internal PJ replacement parts. I found a few mentions of Compass Micro in this thread. They are cheaper at $250 vs $330, but terms and conditions say there are no returns on this "special order" item and they aren't responsible if it breaks in shipping. I went ahead and bought 1 from Compass Micro at $250.
> 
> Then I go back to Epson and see my order was finally cancelled when the payment from the old card didn't go through. Since my two bulbs were returned to inventory, they showed as in stock again. I ordered 1 direct from Epson this time as I can't cancel the Compass Micro order. There is still one in stock at Epson at this time of writing. At least now I will have an opportunity to compare the packaging / housing and relative brightness of the Epson and Compass Micro bulbs side by side.


Just an FYI, but I declined to order from Compass Micro due to their Return Policy's 20% restock fee.* Here's my post* on the issue. If you get one from Compass, I suggest that you test it promptly for a proper _and_ effortless fit....


----------



## psyduck103

The bulb situation is one of the reasons I just purchased a 6050 from AVScience vs a 5050. It was nice to deal with people who know more than I do about what they sell. When I was in Best Buy the sales guy eyes glazed over when he was asked some simple questions about the PJ. Not confidence inspiring to say the least.


----------



## PixelPusher15

psyduck103 said:


> The bulb situation is one of the reasons I just purchased a 6050 from AVScience vs a 5050. It was nice to deal with people who know more than I do about what they sell. When I was in Best Buy the sales guy eyes glazed over when he was asked some simple questions about the PJ. Not confidence inspiring to say the least.


Lolz, the Best Buy guys honestly look scared to ask if I need help when I'm in their Magnolia room. When I'm out looking at the normal electronics they are like freaking hawks on a mouse. In the Mag room I could bring my own popcorn and watch every Lord Of the Rings movie, Directors Cut before anyone came to see what's up.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

FWIW, just called Compass Micro and asked if they are selling refurbished housing or original Epson and they said they are original Epson bulbs, not refurbs or generics. They say they are an A+ Certified Epson Customer Care Center for Epson America and they perform warranty repair work for Epson projectors under warranty. 

I'll closely compare both their $250 bulb and the $330 bulb direct from Epson when they both arrive and report back here.


----------



## PixelPusher15

CinemacDaddy said:


> FWIW, just called Compass Micro and asked if they are selling refurbished housing or original Epson and they said they are original Epson bulbs, not refurbs or generics. They say they are an A+ Certified Epson Customer Care Center for Epson America and they perform warranty repair work for Epson projectors under warranty.
> 
> I'll closely compare both their $250 bulb and the $330 bulb direct from Epson when they both arrive and report back here.


If they are genuine Epson bulbs then doesn't Epson give some short warranty on their bulbs? If you had any defects then I'd assume Epson would back it up. Shipping damage not being covered is another thing.

Looking at their return policy more, they cover defective merchandise within 30 days. Damaged isn't covered but it sounds like they might insure it so the carrier would be on the hook for the damage. It's not the most generous policy but it sounds like there should be an out if you get a bad bulb. I'd just make sure I'm there to take delivery. Maybe once a tracking number is provided make the carrier hold it at their facility for pickup. That way you can inspect it before taking delivery and you are skipping out on the last mile guys drop kicking it.


----------



## nefrina

PixelPusher15 said:


> Lolz, the Best Buy guys honestly look scared to ask if I need help when I'm in their Magnolia room. When I'm out looking at the normal electronics they are like freaking hawks on a mouse.


perhaps if the best buy sales force were compensated fairly they might care about having more than the minimum knowledge to answer customer inquiries about electronics they (probably) can't afford themselves. pay people to give a damn, it works.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

fredworld said:


> Just an FYI, but I declined to order from Compass Micro due to their Return Policy's 20% restock fee.* Here's my post* on the issue. If you get one from Compass, I suggest that you test it promptly for a proper _and_ effortless fit....


Thanks. I saw that, but it's actually worse than that. No returns at all if item is designated as "Special Order" which it is. I thought about trying to cancel since it hasn't shipped yet and I have one from Epson on the way, but I'll roll the dice to compare the two.


----------



## PixelPusher15

serith said:


> perhaps if the best buy sales force were compensated fairly they might care about having more than the minimum knowledge to answer customer inquiries about electronics they (probably) can't afford themselves. pay people to give a damn, it works.


Eh, avg is $15 an hour for standing around answering questions about TVs and streaming sticks. I think that's fair. But we're off-topic. Back to the projector.

I finally got to watch my refurb 5050 for fun last night and holy s*** this thing is awesome. Contrast is ridiculous. It immediately replaced my 4010 and even on bright scenes where the 4010 was no slouch this 5050 seems sharper and has so much more depth. It looks so good it's a problem. I get distracted by how good the image looks and I don't pay attention to what's happening. 

I really do get why everyone says just buy the 5050 when someone is looking at projectors around 2k. I have been converted.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

PixelPusher15 said:


> If they are genuine Epson bulbs then doesn't Epson give some short warranty on their bulbs? If you had any defects then I'd assume Epson would back it up. Shipping damage not being covered is another thing.


Good point. Found this on Epson's site:








Genuine Projector Lamps - Epson


Find out more about Epson’s genuine lamps, Epson’s Colour Shifting Label and other important safety information.




www.epson.eu





Bulbs purchased direct from Epson or Epson authorized resellers carry a 3 month warranty. If compass micro is supposedly an A+ certified Epson customer care center and was recommended by Epson support, I should hope this would qualify for warranty replacement within 3 months should an issue arise. 

Also, the Epson link above mentions authentic bulbs should have a special color shifting label like the one shown in Fredworld's post. I wonder if refurbs re-using original housing with new bulbs inside would still have this? If anyone here bought a refurb, I'd be curious if it has this.


----------



## nefrina

PixelPusher15 said:


> Eh, avg is $15 an hour for standing around answering questions about TVs and streaming sticks. I think that's fair. But we're off-topic. Back to the projector.


it just reminds me of people bragging when they dunk on their car salesman with how much more they know about X car model than they do (same thing happens when nerds go into the magnolia section of best buy and can't believe these floor people don't know all of the details about a TV they've been researching for weeks & have watched every youtube review of..). of course the obsessed will know more than the person just hustling to scratch out a living.



PixelPusher15 said:


> I finally got to watch my refurb 5050 for fun last night and holy s*** this thing is awesome. Contrast is ridiculous. It immediately replaced my 4010 and even on bright scenes where the 4010 was no slouch this 5050 seems sharper and has so much more depth. It looks so good it's a problem. I get distracted by how good the image looks and I don't pay attention to what's happening.
> 
> I really do get why everyone says just buy the 5050 when someone is looking at projectors around 2k. I have been converted.


i've seen the 2150, 3700, 4000, and now 6050 (3 in rooms with black velvet). the 5050/6050 is the clear winner but the diminishing returns on that money are large compared to epson's entry level projectors. i reconnected my 2150 last night (after taking down dad's 6050 i had setup for the past week) and the image quality is not too far removed (i had anticipated never wanting to use it again after using the 6050). the biggest differences to me are noticeably less pixels (which probably has way more to do with my screen size), colors don't pop quite as much, image enhancement/processing isn't quite as good, and my fan is more obnoxious (i absolutely love the variable fan speed on the 6050, it quiets down as soon as the image darkens).

obviously this is the 5050/6050 thread and most won't talk positively about other brand & model projectors, but i think epson shot themselves in the foot either making their entry level projectors too cheap, or their flagship too expensive relative to the picture quality each offers. i still want the 5050, but i'll play the refurb game instead.


----------



## RRF

CinemacDaddy said:


> Good point. Found this on Epson's site:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Genuine Projector Lamps - Epson
> 
> 
> Find out more about Epson’s genuine lamps, Epson’s Colour Shifting Label and other important safety information.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.epson.eu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bulbs purchased direct from Epson or Epson authorized resellers carry a 3 month warranty. If compass micro is supposedly an A+ certified Epson customer care center and was recommended by Epson support, I should hope this would qualify for warranty replacement within 3 months should an issue arise.
> 
> Also, the Epson link above mentions authentic bulbs should have a special color shifting label like the one shown in Fredworld's post. I wonder if refurbs re-using original housing with new bulbs inside would still have this? If anyone here bought a refurb, I'd be curious if it has this.


The Lamp I just received from MyProjectorLamps has the Epson bulb, but the housing does not have the Epson stamp or sticker.
However, the fit and performance is identical to the factory supplied lamp.
The factory housing had a few extra handwritten markings, which I would guess are attributed to some extra inspection/QC.
To me, it was not worth the additional $300+ Epson Canada wanted...but only time will tell.

I thought I had fitment issues, but it was simply due to the "fittee" working in the dark, standing on a theater chair, steadying the projector with one hand, while holding a flashlight and trying to insert the lamp with the other hand.


----------



## PixelPusher15

serith said:


> it just reminds me of people bragging when they dunk on their car salesman with how much more they know about X car model than they do (same thing happens when nerds go into the magnolia section of best buy and can't believe these floor people don't know all of the details about a TV they've been researching for weeks & have watched every youtube review of..). of course the obsessed will know more than the person just hustling to scratch out a living.


Fair. I guess my dunk should be on Best Buy for not training their employees properly. I used to go to a BB Magnolia store an hour away with a much bigger Mag section with 1-2 dedicated Mag employees. Those guys knew their stuff and routinely taught me things I didn't know. They'd mention going to trainings/conferences. I'm pretty sure the Mag store near me is just there so BB can stock the higher-end stuff. So I will reserve my criticism of the employees and instead shame on BB. Except for the dude that tried to convince me and a couple other patrons that a $100 Monster HDMI cable produced a better picture than a $10 Monoprice HDMI cable. He deserves to be shunned. 



serith said:


> i've seen the 2150, 3700, 4000, and now 6050 (3 in rooms with black velvet). the 5050/6050 is the clear winner but the diminishing returns on that money are large compared to epson's entry level projectors. i reconnected my 2150 last night (after taking down dad's 6050 i had setup for the past week) and the image quality is not too far removed (i had anticipated never wanting to use it again after using the 6050). the biggest differences to me are noticeably less pixels (which probably has way more to do with my screen size), colors don't pop quite as much, image enhancement/processing isn't quite as good, and my fan is more obnoxious (i absolutely love the variable fan speed on the 6050, it quiets down as soon as the image darkens).
> 
> obviously this is the 5050/6050 thread and most won't talk positively about other brand & model projectors, but i think epson shot themselves in the foot either making their entry level projectors too cheap, or their flagship too expensive relative to the picture quality each offers. i still want the 5050, but i'll play the refurb game instead.


What screen are you experiencing these on? I got the refurb so for the $ increase over the 4010 and 3800 it is easily worth it. I've tried too many projectors in the past month, have done more research than one should and there's just nothing that puts out respectable black levels. The 3800 was inconsistent with it's black levels where sometimes I'd be impressed and then others it would be a wash. Its colors are also not anywhere near what the 5050 can produce, IMO. The 4010 fixed the colors issue and was better with more consistent black levels. But its HDR handling was bad and black levels are not as good as the 5050. For me, the 5050 is the first projector I have been pleased with on black levels. I'd like them to be even better and will do something extreme like custom painting an AT screen or velvetizing the front of my already very dark room and ruining the aesthetic.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

RRF said:


> The Lamp I just received from MyProjectorLamps has the Epson bulb, but the housing does not have the Epson stamp or sticker.
> However, the fit and performance is identical to the factory supplied lamp.
> The factory housing had a few extra handwritten markings, which I would guess are attributed to some extra inspection/QC.
> To me, it was not worth the additional $300+ Epson Canada wanted...but only time will tell.
> 
> I thought I had fitment issues, but it was simply due to the "fittee" working in the dark, standing on a theater chair, steadying the projector with one hand, while holding a flashlight and trying to insert the lamp with the other hand.


So seems they corrected the screw size problem if it is indeed an aftermarket housing.. Unfortunatly i have lost confidence in the aftermarket for this projector,and the problems i had to go through to get a refund for the previous order i had..
I have yet to get a shipping note on my order for 2 lamps from my dealer, who said it would have shipped last week, not happened yet :-(.. But like i mentioned,i still got some time before exchange get critical


----------



## nefrina

PixelPusher15 said:


> I will reserve my criticism of the employees and instead shame on BB. Except for the dude that tried to convince me and a couple other patrons that a $100 Monster HDMI cable produced a better picture than a $10 Monoprice HDMI cable. He deserves to be shunned.


they're probably flogged if they don't sell a certain amount of cables & extended warranties no one needs 




PixelPusher15 said:


> What screen are you experiencing these on?


diy white over black spandex acoustically transparent screen. i've read the material yields somewhere around 0.6 to 0.7 screen gain.



PixelPusher15 said:


> For me, the 5050 is the first projector I have been pleased with on black levels. I'd like them to be even better and will do something extreme like custom painting an AT screen or velvetizing the front of my already very dark room and ruining the aesthetic.


yeah the black velvet is a total game changer (and i would wager it's the only reason the cheaper projectors look as good as they do in my room). take a look through this thread if you haven't already (it's what motivated me to go down that rabbit hole). i could never go back to reflective drywall, regardless of how dark someone tries to tell you their paint color is.









The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image


A lot of threads have become a home theater improvment color scene around "black"ing out the screen area. Flat black paint, black felt, black velvet, black carpet... You name it! I figured lets put it in this thread and share our thoughts / noticed improvments / methods / pictures of before and...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## DavidK442

RRF said:


> Don't count out old cables until you try them. I'm using 30ft. Monoprice cables from 2008 and they work for 4K HDR10 @ 60Hz.
> View attachment 3097656
> View attachment 3097654


That cable looks just like my 30ft Monoprice cable from 2008  Darn near as big around as my thumb. Hopefully I have the same luck.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

RRF said:


> Don't count out old cables until you try them. I'm using 30ft. Monoprice cables from 2008 and they work for 4K HDR10 @ 60Hz.


Ditto. It doesn't hurt to try. I moved in to a house with a pre-existing theater that was professionally installed back in 2007. All of the equipment was pretty ancient and from that same era. When I swapped in my 4K projector and receiver I thought for sure I would have to re-run a new HDMI cable through the ceiling but to my surprise the ancient preexisting cable supports 4K HDR @ 60 Hz with 4:2:2 chroma. At my old house, I used an expensive 4k HDMI to ethernet converter and it only supported 4:2:0 chroma. If it ain't broke don't fix it.


----------



## RRF

Tsunamijhoe said:


> So seems they corrected the screw size problem if it is indeed an aftermarket housing.. Unfortunatly i have lost confidence in the aftermarket for this projector,and the problems i had to go through to get a refund for the previous order i had..
> I have yet to get a shipping note on my order for 2 lamps from my dealer, who said it would have shipped last week, not happened yet :-(.. But like i mentioned,i still got some time before exchange get critical


I never had a problem with the slightly larger screw diameter. They fit in the projector with no difference than the ones in the factory module. The difficulty I had inserting the module was only due to a slight angle I was using. I only realized my error when I experienced the same difficulty replacing the factory module.
I've purchased several lamps over the years from MyProjectorlamps, and only had one that did not measure up. And less than an hour after calling support I received a full refund on my card.


----------



## msankadi

Hi I recently purchased a TW9400 in India. While watching movies which have panned or fast-moving scenes I notice a noticable judder/stutter which is really affecting my watching experience. When I use the same setup and movie (Intel nuc as htpc via kodi) on my 65 inch led tv I hardly notice it. I am a noob when it comes to projectors. At this time, I havent changed much and am using the default digital cinema settings. Has it got anything to do with frame rates mismatch. I tried it with LOTR movie: Fellowship one for now. 

Frame int is greyed out as I am playing native 4k content. What other details can I provide you to help resolve my issue?


----------



## PixelPusher15

msankadi said:


> Hi I recently purchased a TW9400 in India. While watching movies which have panned or fast-moving scenes I notice a noticable judder/stutter which is really affecting my watching experience. When I use the same setup and movie (Intel nuc as htpc via kodi) on my 65 inch led tv I hardly notice it. I am a noob when it comes to projectors. At this time, I havent changed much and am using the default digital cinema settings. Has it got anything to do with frame rates mismatch. I tried it with LOTR movie: Fellowship one for now.
> 
> Frame int is greyed out as I am playing native 4k content. What other details can I provide you to help resolve my issue?


What do you have the refresh rate set at on your htpc? If it’s at 30 or 60 then you’re going to get judder


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## msankadi

PixelPusher15 said:


> What do you have the refresh rate set at on your htpc? If it’s at 30 or 60 then you’re going to get judder


I have Kodi setup to mirror the refresh rate of the display and every time a new movie starts/stops it is technically pushing the refresh rate that the projector can handle. 

What should I change the refresh rate to? I can try doing that.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

RRF said:


> I never had a problem with the slightly larger screw diameter. They fit in the projector with no difference than the ones in the factory module. The difficulty I had inserting the module was only due to a slight angle I was using. I only realized my error when I experienced the same difficulty replacing the factory module.


That might be, but others had problems with the larger screws uncluding myself.. They simply would not grip the thread in the projector without using a lot of force i would suspect..I tried both knockoff lamps i had at the time,and both had 0.3mm larger screws,and not just the shaft,but the thread head was larger.. Bottomline, and my point,if your new lamp has correct screw diameter,means they fixed it,and hopefully going forward the problem is eliminated.. Only time will tell if/when other users report similar findings.. Until then, i buy strictly original..


----------



## Kieran

Tsunamijhoe said:


> knockoff lamps





Tsunamijhoe said:


> Bottomline, and my point,if your new lamp has correct screw diameter,means they fixed it,and hopefully going forward the problem is eliminated.


I'm pretty sure that @RRF said the screws were still measuring larger with calipers than the stock/original ones, but that he didn't have a problem installing them anyway, once he got the alignment correct.

I find this surprising though, if true. Even if the thread pitch was the same, the larger major diameter of the screw would cause increased resistance compared to the original lamp screws, with that resistance increasing the deeper they go.


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## Tsunamijhoe

Kieran said:


> I find this surprising though, if true. Even if the thread pitch was the same, the larger major diameter of the screw would cause increased resistance compared to the original lamp screws, with that resistance increasing the deeper they go.


Yeah, that's my take too, either he measured wrong, or he forced the larger screws in the first time he tried, and thus enlarged the thread in the projector.
My screws definitely did not match my projector as they wouldn't even grip the thread.


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## Carterhawk

Question for current owners of this model: I've seen that computer text looks rather soft on it because of how the 4K shift works, but if you have a computer set to 1080p connected to the projector does it upscale that to shifted 4K, or does it stop vibrating the pixels to display at the native 1080p resolution of the panels? I would mostly watch 4K content through my Roku, and games can be set to run at a higher resolution than Desktop, but if I'm looking at web content or spreadsheets I need text to be crisp. Thank you for any insight you can share on this!


----------



## fredworld

Carterhawk said:


> Question for current owners of this model: I've seen that computer text looks rather soft on it because of how the 4K shift works, but if you have a computer set to 1080p connected to the projector does it upscale that to shifted 4K, or does it stop vibrating the pixels to display at the native 1080p resolution of the panels? I would mostly watch 4K content through my Roku, and games can be set to run at a higher resolution than Desktop, but if I'm looking at web content or spreadsheets I need text to be crisp. Thank you for any insight you can share on this!


If you're feeding the projector 1080p then you can turn off 4K enhancement. You'll then be displaying 1080.


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## biglen

Got my new lamp from Epson today. Holy smokes, what a difference. I didn't realize how much light output I had lost. I had about 1300 hours on the original lamp, and now I feel like I have a new protector. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Kieran

biglen said:


> Got my new lamp from Epson today. Holy smokes, what a difference. I didn't realize how much light output I had lost. I had about 1300 hours on the original lamp, and now I feel like I have a new protector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Ugh.
While I'm happy for you, that makes me re-think the 5050 and consider a laser pj instead. Hmmm....


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> Got my new lamp from Epson today. Holy smokes, what a difference. I didn't realize how much light output I had lost. I had about 1300 hours on the original lamp, and now I feel like I have a new protector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That's interesting. I found little to no difference with my new lamp, installed yesterday, that replaced a lamp with 1100 hours (which will now be a spare). Of course, this is only a subjective evaluation. After a few hours use, I popped in my Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc to check Brightness, Contrast and Color/Tint. I found no need to make any adjustments of my settings. Perhaps I could have moved Brightness a notch lower or higher but it didn't seem to make a discernible difference when viewing normal material. 
Later in the evening my wife and I watched Stanley Tucci's Searching for Italy, a show with gorgeous scenery and appetizing local cuisine. Everything looked very natural and just about what I recall previous episodes looking like. 

I know that individual lamps age differently, so perhaps I had one that retained its performance more consistently. My original stock lamp developed a flicker around 1000 hours (Epson replaced it). Then again, my set-up is much more conservative than many on this thread, so perhaps my lamp wasn't being over-driven and thus aged well...at least through 1100 hours.


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## CinemacDaddy

biglen said:


> Got my new lamp from Epson today. Holy smokes, what a difference. I didn't realize how much light output I had lost. I had about 1300 hours on the original lamp, and now I feel like I have a new protector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


New bulbs always surprise me but I have 3900 Hours on my original 5050 bulb on and it still looks great. I plan to replace it this weekend but it’s still a pleasure to watch.

I use bright cinema mode and medium consumption the last couple thousand hours. The first couple thousand hours or so low power consumption was plenty bright.


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## biglen

Most of my hours were High lamp, so maybe that's why my lamp lost a lot of brightness at 1300 hrs?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> Most of my hours were High lamp, so maybe that's why my lamp lost a lot of brightness at 1300 hrs?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Perhaps. Mine runs on MEDIUM in Digital Cinema, except for 3D, then it's on HIGH, but that's rare.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

Epson 5050UB Expected Lamp Life:
Full Brightness: 3500 Hours
Medium Brightness: 4000 Hours
Low Brightness: 5000 Hours

Most manufacturers rate lamp life as the time it takes for a bulb to reach half of its original brightness. Modern projectors are pretty bright to start with. Light controlled rooms will get by with less lumens as well.

Dynamic mode colors are too funky too watch on any Epson projector I’ve ever had, but Bright Cinema mode on the 5050UB has realistic colors and is relatively bright. My earlier epson 8350 only tested 952 lumens in “Living Room” mode and 556 lumens in cinema mode (both medium power) so the 5050UB has some brightness to spare. My 8350 became tough to day watch around 3500 hours but my HC3800 and 5050UB have been fine to watch up to ~4000 hours when I switch them. When I first put in a new bulb, I dial it back to low power for a bit as the colors looks more realistic and less blown out. After a while I bump up to medium. You can also compensate somewhat by changing modes. If you normally watch digital cinema, try bright cinema as bulb is aging.

From projector central 5500ub review:


----------



## fredworld

CinemacDaddy said:


> Epson 5500 Expected Lamp Life:
> Full Brightness: 3500 Hours
> Medium Brightness: 4000 Hours
> Low Brightness: 5000 Hours
> 
> Most manufacturers rate lamp life as the time it takes for a bulb to reach half of its original brightness. Modern projectors are pretty bright to start with. Light controlled rooms will get by with less lumens as well.
> 
> Dynamic mode colors are too funky too watch on any Epson projector I’ve ever had, but Bright Cinema mode on the 5500UB has realistic colors and is relatively bright. My earlier epson 8350 only tested 952 lumens in “Living Room” mode and 556 lumens in cinema mode (both medium power) so the 5500UB has some brightness to spare. My 8350 became tough to day watch around 3500 hours but my HC3800 and 5500UB have been fine to watch up to ~4000 hours when I switch them. When I first put in a new bulb, I dial it back to low power for a bit as the colors looks more realistic and less blown out. After a while I bump up to medium. You can also compensate somewhat by changing modes. If you normally watch digital cinema, try bright cinema as bulb is aging.
> 
> From projector central 5500ub review:
> View attachment 3098241


What screen size and throw distance were you using throughout these observations? Is the lamp for the 5500 the same as for the 5050/6050?


----------



## RRF

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Yeah, that's my take too, either he measured wrong, or he forced the larger screws in the first time he tried, and thus enlarged the thread in the projector.
> My screws definitely did not match my projector as they wouldn't even grip the thread.


I used digital calipers _(exact same model as Fredworld's)_ to measure the screws several times, on 2 different aftermarket lamps, and I did NOT force them.
Lets just end the discussion...everyone is happy with what they have.

_...but for your information. I spent 30 years servicing, building ,testing, designing, RF and optical systems for one of N.America's largest MSOs. 20 years in headends working on voice routers as big as a fridge, optical transports, DOCSIS CMTS's, RF narrowcast splitter and combiner networks, fibre optic nodes, optical transmitters and receivers, BDR's, TVRO sites and even AML microwave systems.. I designed headends in Dubai, designed and setup the video systems for every venue in the 2015 Pan Am Games. I also became ISF certified in 2013 at Christie Digital Systems in Kitchener Ontario.(.https://www.christiedigital.com/products/projectors/all-projectors/ ) So I have installed more modules and tightened more seize-downs than you could possibly imagine and not once damaged a component._


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## CinemacDaddy

fredworld said:


> What screen size and throw distance were you using throughout these observations? Is the lamp for the 5500 the same as for the 5050/6050?


135” @ 13’3” cine white 1.3 gain. This is closest projector can be to project this size for max brightness. 5050/6050 Bulb is the same.


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## biglen

CinemacDaddy said:


> 135” @ 13’3” cine white 1.3 gain. This is closest projector can be to project this size for max brightness. 5050/6050 Bulb is the same.
> 
> View attachment 3098269


That's exactly my throw distance and image size. I was shorter than that, but wanted a bigger image, so I built a box in the back wall, to get to 13'3", 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Tsunamijhoe

RRF said:


> I used digital calipers _(exact same model as Fredworld's)_ to measure the screws several times, on 2 different aftermarket lamps, and I did NOT force them.
> Lets just end the discussion...everyone is happy with what they have.
> 
> _...but for your information. I spent 30 years servicing, building ,testing, designing, RF and optical systems for one of N.America's largest MSOs. 20 years in headends working on voice routers as big as a fridge, optical transports, DOCSIS CMTS's, RF narrowcast splitter and combiner networks, fibre optic nodes, optical transmitters and receivers, BDR's, TVRO sites and even AML microwave systems.. I designed headends in Dubai, designed and setup the video systems for every venue in the 2015 Pan Am Games. I also became ISF certified in 2013 at Christie Digital Systems in Kitchener Ontario.(.https://www.christiedigital.com/products/projectors/all-projectors/ ) So I have installed more modules and tightened more seize-downs than you could possibly imagine and not once damaged a component._
> 
> View attachment 3106696
> View attachment 3106698
> View attachment 3106699
> View attachment 3106700
> View attachment 3106701


Alright then..We are just saying the larger screws will NOT fit into our projectors,so something is going on somewhere.. Maybe Epson uses different threads in EU vs US, metric vs inches, i dont know.. I only know what i have experienced and what others have reported..
Time will tell if the aftermarket lamps are fixed..


----------



## fredworld

CinemacDaddy said:


> 135” @ 13’3” cine white 1.3 gain. This is closest projector can be to project this size for max brightness. 5050/6050 Bulb is the same.
> 
> View attachment 3098269


Thanks for that. Based on our respective dimensions, my 94" 2.35 screen equates to about a 108" 16x9 diagonal, so I'm still significantly under driving my lamp compared to others. My throw distance is 14' on to a white 1.0 gain screen. My 16x9 viewing is at an 82" diagonal. I have lens and calibration memory settings for each. Thanks again for the reference.


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## PixelPusher15

Hey folks, maybe others have done this or know this but I just learned something I thought would be worth sharing. One of my big complaints about any Epson HDR capable projector is that it doesn't switch to a preset HDR color mode or user preset based on when it receives an HDR signal. This is manual and really not user-friendly. Enter the HDFury Vertex 2. The Vertex 2 is supposed to be able to send custom RS232 commands based on the metadata it receives. Well, the Epson 5050 can take in a RS232 command for just about everything, including the user memory presets. In theory, this would allow you to send a command for any metadata. If something is HDR in BT2020 and mastered at 4000 nits, you could have a preset just for that. HDR BT2020 mastered at 1000 nits, preset for that. SDR rec709....preset for that. All auto switching based on received metadata. 

If anyone has a Vertex 2 or Diva and is willing to give this a go I'd be really curious to see if it works. The Macro/RS232 section was first set up for JVC projectors and is preset for them, but they allow editing. I currently have a Vertex 2 but it is being sent back for reasons and my setup would require some RS232 extension devices to get it to my projector that I don't want to invest at this time.


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## CinemacDaddy

fredworld said:


> Thanks for that. Based on our respective dimensions, my 94" 2.35 screen equates to about a 108" 16x9 diagonal, so I'm still significantly under driving my lamp compared to others. My throw distance is 14' on to a white 1.0 gain screen. My 16x9 viewing is at an 82" diagonal. I have lens and calibration memory settings for each. Thanks again for the reference.


Screen gain makes a big difference as well as distance. Cinemascope aspect ratio cuts down brightness at a given size as well unless you are using an anamorphic lens. You should play around with the calculator over at projector central. It's a super useful tool:








Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projection Calculator - Throw Distance and Screen Size


Find screen size and throw distance for the Epson Home Cinema 5050UB projector.



www.projectorcentral.com





With your 1.0 gain 2.35:1 1.0 gain screen at 14ft, you are looking at 65fL at 94" (108") which is only 2fL more than what I'm seeing at 135" 16:9 1.3 gain at 13'3".

If you moved the projector forward to 10' 8" you would be up to 75fL.

If you moved the projector forward and used a 1.3 gain screen you would be up to 98fL

You get the most brightness by putting your projector at the closest distance that will project your screen size. The downside is that if you ever go to a bigger screen, you have to move the projector back. I just had to relocate the projector in my theater to go from 110" to 135" but it was worth the hassle.


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## Zedekias

I know I have seen this question here before, but since I had never seen it happen, I don't remember the answer.

I had my 5050 on pause for about 10 minutes. And when I came back the screen had a line down the middle of it. The left side of the screen was normal. And the right was off. Pink? Purple? I'm a little colorblind. I switched inputs and everything was back to normal. Anything I need to worry about? 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Hey folks, maybe others have done this or know this but I just learned something I thought would be worth sharing. One of my big complaints about any Epson HDR capable projector is that it doesn't switch to a preset HDR color mode or user preset based on when it receives an HDR signal. This is manual and really not user-friendly. Enter the HDFury Vertex 2. The Vertex 2 is supposed to be able to send custom RS232 commands based on the metadata it receives. Well, the Epson 5050 can take in a RS232 command for just about everything, including the user memory presets. In theory, this would allow you to send a command for any metadata. If something is HDR in BT2020 and mastered at 4000 nits, you could have a preset just for that. HDR BT2020 mastered at 1000 nits, preset for that. SDR rec709....preset for that. All auto switching based on received metadata.
> 
> If anyone has a Vertex 2 or Diva and is willing to give this a go I'd be really curious to see if it works. The Macro/RS232 section was first set up for JVC projectors and is preset for them, but they allow editing. I currently have a Vertex 2 but it is being sent back for reasons and my setup would require some RS232 extension devices to get it to my projector that I don't want to invest at this time.


You may have your Vertex2 back before I get mine, so I don't think I can help. 
I am curious though, what kind of connection is required to send RS232c commands to the projector? Can they not be sent via HDMI from the Vertex2? I might be able to connect a cat6 from HDFury to pj; I ran both HDMI and cat6 from my source location to the pj location. I wasn't sure if I'd need to use HDBaseT or if HDMI would work, so I ran both. I still don't know if HDMI will work. It's only 30 feet so should be OK. But I haven't tested anything yet.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> You may have your Vertex2 back before I get mine, so I don't think I can help.
> I am curious though, what kind of connection is required to send RS232c commands to the projector? Can they not be sent via HDMI from the Vertex2? I might be able to connect a cat6 from HDFury to pj; I ran both HDMI and cat6 from my source location to the pj location. I wasn't sure if I'd need to use HDBaseT or if HDMI would work, so I ran both. I still don't know if HDMI will work. It's only 30 feet so should be OK. But I haven't tested anything yet.


RS232 commands need an RS232 serial cable 









It does appear it can be run over cat5/6 cable though: Amazon.com: zdyCGTime RJ45 to RS232 Cable, DB9 9-Pin Serial Port Female&Male to RJ45 Female Cat5/6 Ethernet LAN Console（15CM/6Inch）2Pack: Computers & Accessories

Furthermore, it looks like it can be run over a standard 3.5mm audio cable. I'm not sure about this one though. But, this is the port on the Vertex 2 and they include a 3.5mm to serial cable.
Amazon.com: SF Cable, DB9 Female to 3.5mm Serial Cable (6 Feet): Electronics 

I also ran Cat6 and HDMI. The Cat6 was supposed to "future-proof" the setup but I then learned that [email protected] pretty much maxes out a cat6 cable and anything beyond [email protected] is probably going to need cat8. Which I didn't know was a thing until it was too late. I also didn't run conduit because I didn't know that was a thing until drywall was already up.  I did so many things right, but not all.


----------



## corock

Zedekias said:


> I know I have seen this question here before, but since I had never seen it happen, I don't remember the answer.
> 
> I had my 5050 on pause for about 10 minutes. And when I came back the screen had a line down the middle of it. The left side of the screen was normal. And the right was off. Pink? Purple? I'm a little colorblind. I switched inputs and everything was back to normal. Anything I need to worry about?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


That happened to me once. Like you I switched the input to another device and back and it returned to normal. It's never happened again.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> RS232 commands need an RS232 serial cable
> View attachment 3106815
> 
> 
> It does appear it can be run over cat5/6 cable though: Amazon.com: zdyCGTime RJ45 to RS232 Cable, DB9 9-Pin Serial Port Female&Male to RJ45 Female Cat5/6 Ethernet LAN Console（15CM/6Inch）2Pack: Computers & Accessories
> 
> Furthermore, it looks like it can be run over a standard 3.5mm audio cable. I'm not sure about this one though. But, this is the port on the Vertex 2 and they include a 3.5mm to serial cable.
> Amazon.com: SF Cable, DB9 Female to 3.5mm Serial Cable (6 Feet): Electronics
> 
> I also ran Cat6 and HDMI. The Cat6 was supposed to "future-proof" the setup but I then learned that [email protected] pretty much maxes out a cat6 cable and anything beyond [email protected] is probably going to need cat8. Which I didn't know was a thing until it was too late. I also didn't run conduit because I didn't know that was a thing until drywall was already up.  I did so many things right, but not all.


LOL, yes I do know that rs232c is traditionally a DB-9 connector. However I also had heard that the signal could go through many other methods, which you noted as well, like ethernet, and 3.5mm jack. I wondered if it might also be possible to send over HDMI which would be amazing.
Bummer about no conduit. My cat6 is not in the conduit, but my hdmi is. The LV team actually forgot the smurf tube at first, had everything stapled down (cringe, not sure why they use staples so much. Why not just leave the wires loose?) I had them pull the staples and run the smurf tube with the hdmi in it loose. I'm expecting that by the time I actually get everything set up and installed that the hdmi will either have been damaged, or is faulty, just due to Murphy's law. I didn't think to have them put the cat6 in the tube also. But I can run another one in the tube if I want/need to, it's about 2in in diameter.


----------



## fredworld

CinemacDaddy said:


> Screen gain makes a big difference as well as distance. Cinemascope aspect ratio cuts down brightness at a given size as well unless you are using an anamorphic lens. You should play around with the calculator over at projector central. It's a super useful tool:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projection Calculator - Throw Distance and Screen Size
> 
> 
> Find screen size and throw distance for the Epson Home Cinema 5050UB projector.
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorcentral.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With your 1.0 gain 2.35:1 1.0 gain screen at 14ft, you are looking at 65fL at 94" (108") which is only 2fL more than what I'm seeing at 135" 16:9 1.3 gain at 13'3".
> 
> If you moved the projector forward to 10' 8" you would be up to 75fL.
> 
> If you moved the projector forward and used a 1.3 gain screen you would be up to 98fL
> 
> You get the most brightness by putting your projector at the closest distance that will project your screen size. The downside is that if you ever go to a bigger screen, you have to move the projector back. I just had to relocate the projector in my theater to go from 110" to 135" but it was worth the hassle.


Thanks for the tips. My projector is in a fixed spot in the ceiling with the mount secured to the rafters, so no movement forward or backwards and my screen size is maxed for the room's wall. More notably, I've nothing to complain about in my current set up. Honestly, there's no appreciable difference in light output from my 16:9 to 2.35 lens positions, except for the greater sense of immersion at 2.35. Image is still watchable even with lights up 25%. Good info provided. Thanks again.


----------



## RRF

Kieran said:


> LOL, yes I do know that rs232c is traditionally a DB-9 connector. However I also had heard that the signal could go through many other methods, which you noted as well, like ethernet, and 3.5mm jack. I wondered if it might also be possible to send over HDMI which would be amazing.
> Bummer about no conduit. My cat6 is not in the conduit, but my hdmi is. The LV team actually forgot the smurf tube at first, had everything stapled down (cringe, not sure why they use staples so much. Why not just leave the wires loose?) I had them pull the staples and run the smurf tube with the hdmi in it loose. I'm expecting that by the time I actually get everything set up and installed that the hdmi will either have been damaged, or is faulty, just due to Murphy's law. I didn't think to have them put the cat6 in the tube also. But I can run another one in the tube if I want/need to, it's about 2in in diameter.


There are lots of HDMI extenders over Cat6 available.


Amazon.com : sabrent 4k hdmi extender over cat6


I would test them with various formats before installation.
DB9 Serial to ethernet adapters are plentiful also. I prefer ones where you can configure your own pinouts.


----------



## Kieran

RRF said:


> There are lots of HDMI extenders over Cat6 available.
> 
> 
> Amazon.com : sabrent 4k hdmi extender over cat6
> 
> 
> I would test them with various formats before installation.
> DB9 Serial to ethernet adapters are plentiful also. I prefer ones where you can configure your own pinouts.


Hey, yes lots of HDMI over ethernet extenders, aka "HDBaseT"... we were specifically discussing HDFury though, and if I do need to send video over ethernet, I would just use the HDFury one. Super expensive, but I'd be getting it for other reasons (Dolby Vision / HDR). Also I think his point was that cat6 tops out at 4k/60hz bandwidth-wise, and he'd need to upgrade to something more eventually. I have a smurf tube so can run a new/better ethernet line some day if I need to.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> LOL, yes I do know that rs232c is traditionally a DB-9 connector. However I also had heard that the signal could go through many other methods, which you noted as well, like ethernet, and 3.5mm jack. I wondered if it might also be possible to send over HDMI which would be amazing.
> Bummer about no conduit. My cat6 is not in the conduit, but my hdmi is. The LV team actually forgot the smurf tube at first, had everything stapled down (cringe, not sure why they use staples so much. Why not just leave the wires loose?) I had them pull the staples and run the smurf tube with the hdmi in it loose. I'm expecting that by the time I actually get everything set up and installed that the hdmi will either have been damaged, or is faulty, just due to Murphy's law. I didn't think to have them put the cat6 in the tube also. But I can run another one in the tube if I want/need to, it's about 2in in diameter.


With a 2" tube running you should be good to go for anything. Damn, I'm so mad at myself for not running one. I just didn't know. I even wondered what the heck that tube was in the LV aisle at Menards. I finish a whole freaking basement to code (permits included!) with a wet bar, egress window, theater, office, etc etc and I forget a "smurf" tube. I'm the smurf.


----------



## MarcSparks

Pretty pleased with my 5050UB refurb I got last week. Only thing I'm having a little trouble with is validating the auto iris is working correctly. I honestly can't tell a difference when it is off or on. What are some good recommended tests to see it in action? I've just tried watching a handful of dark scenes of random movies, and flipping it back and forth I see no difference.

In a bad way, my former BenQ W7000 was very noticeable when the iris was on. But at least you knew it was doing something.

Should I not be able to see it clamp down when I pause a very dark scene and flip it on from off? And vice versa.


----------



## fredworld

MarcSparks said:


> Pretty pleased with my 5050UB refurb I got last week. Only thing I'm having a little trouble with is validating the auto iris is working correctly. I honestly can't tell a difference when it is off or on. What are some good recommended tests to see it in action? I've just tried watching a handful of dark scenes of random movies, and flipping it back and forth I see no difference.
> 
> In a bad way, my former BenQ W7000 was very noticeable when the iris was on. But at least you knew it was doing something.
> 
> Should I not be able to see it clamp down when I pause a very dark scene and flip it on from off? And vice versa.


Auto Iris is a dynamic mechanism. I don't recall ever noticing it on a paused image. I would think it's working best when it's not noticed. Also, I think that it depends on how your projector is set up and calibrated. Image size, Gamma and Brightness/Contrast settings, etc. could directly impact the Iris response to an image. Having said that, I've turned off my Auto Iris as I find even the slight "pumping" between fade outs/fade ins and cross fades in credits or transitional scenes unnatural and not film-like. This results in a very slight loss of contrast but, to me, is much more tolerable and easier to overlook than the distraction of that "pump." Others might disagree.

As I mentioned in previous posts,my system is more conservatively set up for screen size and I have a completely light controlled room with black screen wall and ceiling with dark gray walls. Consequently, I think it might better support not using Auto Iris.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> With a 2" tube running you should be good to go for anything. Damn, I'm so mad at myself for not running one. I just didn't know. I even wondered what the heck that tube was in the LV aisle at Menards. I finish a whole freaking basement to code (permits included!) with a wet bar, egress window, theater, office, etc etc and I forget a "smurf" tube. I'm the smurf.


I've pulled a lot of wires over the years in every condo/townhome or house I've owned (on #6 now), plus at houses of friends or colleagues. I freaking hate trying to run wires in existing walls/floors/ceilings. This was the first time we've actually built a new section that had open walls. I wasn't going to forget conduit for video.  I did not run tubes for everything though. The speaker locations are all wired for in-wall wiring, and they are stapled in place. Speaker wire? Copper is copper... But the video path I knew would be most likely to need to re-run some day.


----------



## Kieran

MarcSparks said:


> Pretty pleased with my 5050UB refurb I got last week. Only thing I'm having a little trouble with is validating the auto iris is working correctly. I honestly can't tell a difference when it is off or on. What are some good recommended tests to see it in action? I've just tried watching a handful of dark scenes of random movies, and flipping it back and forth I see no difference.
> 
> In a bad way, my former BenQ W7000 was very noticeable when the iris was on. But at least you knew it was doing something.
> 
> Should I not be able to see it clamp down when I pause a very dark scene and flip it on from off? And vice versa.


Don't forget to post your comparison impressions when you get your LG 810...


----------



## Maineiac12

Well, it looks like I will be joining the 5050 refurb club! I managed to order one yesterday when they were briefly in stock. I’ll be upgrading from a BenQ HT3550. Hopefully it ships soon! 

I am trying to read through all the posts in this thread but it’s a lot!

What kind of mount would you all recommend for this projector? Currently I am using a old style Chief mount but I have to move my mounting position as far back as possible to max out my throw distance so I’m considering building a shelf or upgrading to a Chief RPM elite mount with better adjustment. Do you guys prefer one method to the other?

My room is not ideal. It is 151” from wall to wall and I am projecting onto a 110” zero edge screen. Subtracting 1.5 for the screen and 17.7 for the projector gives me 10’-11” of throw distance. According to the calculator at projector central I need 10’-9” minimum distance to fill 110” so I don’t have a lot of room to spare.


----------



## mon2479

Maineiac12 said:


> Well, it looks like I will be joining the 5050 refurb club! I managed to order one yesterday when they were briefly in stock. I’ll be upgrading from a BenQ HT3550. Hopefully it ships soon!
> 
> I am trying to read through all the posts in this thread but it’s a lot!
> 
> What kind of mount would you all recommend for this projector? Currently I am using a old style Chief mount but I have to move my mounting position as far back as possible to max out my throw distance so I’m considering building a shelf or upgrading to a Chief RPM elite mount with better adjustment. Do you guys prefer one method to the other?
> 
> My room is not ideal. It is 151” from wall to wall and I am projecting onto a 110” zero edge screen. Subtracting 1.5 for the screen and 17.7 for the projector gives me 10’-11” of throw distance. According to the calculator at projector central I need 10’-9” minimum distance to fill 110” so I don’t have a lot of room to spare.


I got a Strong mount(I think that's the name) and I love it, it has the 3 knobs in the front for adjusting tilt, yawn, and pitch by mms. My installer provided the mount for me.


----------



## mon2479

Maineiac12 said:


> Well, it looks like I will be joining the 5050 refurb club! I managed to order one yesterday when they were briefly in stock. I’ll be upgrading from a BenQ HT3550. Hopefully it ships soon!
> 
> I am trying to read through all the posts in this thread but it’s a lot!
> 
> What kind of mount would you all recommend for this projector? Currently I am using a old style Chief mount but I have to move my mounting position as far back as possible to max out my throw distance so I’m considering building a shelf or upgrading to a Chief RPM elite mount with better adjustment. Do you guys prefer one method to the other?
> 
> My room is not ideal. It is 151” from wall to wall and I am projecting onto a 110” zero edge screen. Subtracting 1.5 for the screen and 17.7 for the projector gives me 10’-11” of throw distance. According to the calculator at projector central I need 10’-9” minimum distance to fill 110” so I don’t have a lot of room to spare.


I got a Strong mount(I think that's the name) and I love it, it has the 3 knobs in the front for adjusting tilt, yawn, and pitch by mms. My installer provided the mount for me.


----------



## mon2479

Quick question guys:
So I use a Binary powered cable(30ft) and I have never been able to get 4kHDR 60 to check off on my ROKU. Before my epson, all my gear was hooked up to a OLED tv and i did get the 60fps. So the new additions are the cable and the epson. I just tried a RUIPRO fiber optic cable thinking it would solve the problem, but it did not work either. I am using input 2 on the epson with the 1.03fw. I still get a good picture at 59.94 when I stream, it's just a head scratcher though.
Ideas??


----------



## RRF

mon2479 said:


> Quick question guys:
> So I use a Binary powered cable(30ft) and I have never been able to get 4kHDR 60 to check off on my ROKU. Before my epson, all my gear was hooked up to a OLED tv and i did get the 60fps. So the new additions are the cable and the epson. I just tried a RUIPRO fiber optic cable thinking it would solve the problem, but it did not work either. I am using input 2 on the epson with the 1.03fw. I still get a good picture at 59.94 when I stream, it's just a head scratcher though.
> Ideas??


Did you set the EDID to "Expanded" in the Signal-Advanced-EDID menu?

"_EDID: Changes the EDID settings; select Expanded when projecting a 3840 × 2160 signal
at 60 Hz"_


----------



## mon2479

RRF said:


> Did you set the EDID to "Expanded" in the Signal-Advanced-EDID menu?
> 
> "_EDID: Changes the EDID settings; select Expanded when projecting a 3840 × 2160 signal
> at 60 Hz"_


It's on normal, is that the reason?


----------



## RRF

mon2479 said:


> It's on normal, is that the reason?


Yes .
The EDID is a file on the projector that the player reads to know which modes it can send to the display.
It is all explained in the User Guide https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56386.pdf page 117.


----------



## mon2479

RRF said:


> Yes .
> The EDID is a file on the projector that the player reads to know which modes it can send to the display.
> It is all explained in the User Guide https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56386.pdf page 117.


Well I feel stupid.....lol. I've struggled with it for almost 1yr....lol
THANK YOU!!!

On to my next venture....HD FURY ARCANA


----------



## mon2479

RRF said:


> Yes .
> The EDID is a file on the projector that the player reads to know which modes it can send to the display.
> It is all explained in the User Guide https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56386.pdf page 117.


Well I feel stupid.....lol. I've struggled with it for almost 1yr....lol
THANK YOU!!!

On to my next venture....HD FURY ARCANA


----------



## RRF

mon2479 said:


> Well I feel stupid.....lol. I've struggled with it for almost 1yr....lol
> THANK YOU


Don't be...we all do it more than we like to admit. 
I spent 1/2 a day this week trying to figure out why the ChromaSubsampling was changing from 4:2:0 to 4:4:4 with 23.976Hz videos...only to find out it is not supported, and that info was in the User Guide also.


----------



## Kieran

RRF said:


> Don't be...we all do it more than we like to admit.
> I spent 1/2 a day this week trying to figure out why the ChromaSubsampling was changing from 4:2:0 to 4:4:4 with 23.976Hz videos...only to find out it is not supported, and that info was in the User Guide also.


Wait, 4:2:0 at 24hz is not supported?


----------



## RRF

Kieran said:


> Wait, 4:2:0 at 24hz is not supported?


Page 170 of the User Guide - Last line...
It is not part of the HDMI Specification.





HDMI in the News - Press Releases


HDMI press release, hdmi press, hdmi chart, hdmi graphics, hdmi media,HDMI 2.1a




www.hdmi.org






Request Rejected


----------



## Maineiac12

mon2479 said:


> I got a Strong mount(I think that's the name) and I love it, it has the 3 knobs in the front for adjusting tilt, yawn, and pitch by mms. My installer provided the mount for me.


I think I’ve seen those on YouTube. Do you remember how much it was?


----------



## MarcSparks

Kieran said:


> Don't forget to post your comparison impressions when you get your LG 810...


Well, about that.. 

Had to make a really tough call today and cancel the 810 pre-order. WWS charged me for it a month ago, despite it being a pre order. With the 5050 on the books and a couple vacations we just booked, I can't have another $3k floating out there for who knows how long and do the shoot out like I wanted to. 

I'm happy enough with the 5050 and it saved me like $500 over the LG because of the refurb. Moving on and going to try to not look back too hard on the 810.


----------



## mon2479

Maineiac12 said:


> I think I’ve seen those on YouTube. Do you remember how much it was?


$150 I think, its available on snapav.com


----------



## Kieran

MarcSparks said:


> Well, about that..
> 
> Had to make a really tough call today and cancel the 810 pre-order. WWS charged me for it a month ago, despite it being a pre order. With the 5050 on the books and a couple vacations we just booked, I can't have another $3k floating out there for who knows how long and do the shoot out like I wanted to.
> 
> I'm happy enough with the 5050 and it saved me like $500 over the LG because of the refurb. Moving on and going to try to not look back too hard on the 810.


Good for you.  I'm getting to the same point. The main thing that has me leaning toward 5050 is 3D, and easier setup (lens flexibility). I don't watch much 3D but I do like it a lot when I do. 
I pre-ordered the 810 on B&H with their store credit card, and they won't actually charge it until it ships. But I might cancel before it ships anyway and just stick with the 5050, which will be delivered in 8 days, with my screen.


----------



## MarcSparks

Kieran said:


> Good for you.  I'm getting to the same point. The main thing that has me leaning toward 5050 is 3D, and easier setup (lens flexibility). I don't watch much 3D but I do like it a lot when I do.
> I pre-ordered the 810 on B&H with their store credit card, and they won't actually charge it until it ships. But I might cancel before it ships anyway and just stick with the 5050, which will be delivered in 8 days, with my screen.


I felt like in the end, it would probably be really splitting hairs between the two overall, with some obvious trade offs. And so I thought what am I doing here, because no matter the outcome I was going to have to do either a return of the 810, or try to sell the 5050 on secondary, which would have been a pain, and probably more $ down the drain.

And yes, the motorized lens shift (and wide range) on the 5050 is pretty awesome, and definitely made the setup a breeze.


----------



## Kieran

Is anyone in this group using their projector in a hush box or in a soffit? If so, how are you getting the IR signal to the pj? 
I just realized that the way I plan to install the pj, the IR receiver for the remote will be blocked. I guess I'll have to look into some sort of IR blaster/extender to put inside the soffit with the pj. Hmmmm....


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> Is anyone in this group using their projector in a hush box or in a soffit? If so, how are you getting the IR signal to the pj?
> I just realized that the way I plan to install the pj, the IR receiver for the remote will be blocked. I guess I'll have to look into some sort of IR blaster/extender to put inside the soffit with the pj. Hmmmm....


Yes, I use an IR extender in the box. Also, make sure you put a fan in the box, to pull the hot air out. This is the fan I'm using. It never goes above 80° in my box. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQ...abc_9RSTX167QSH1QRGGXF53?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

Which IR blaster are you using?


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> Yes, I use an IR extender in the box. Also, make sure you put a fan in the box, to pull the hot air out. This is the fan I'm using. It never goes above 80° in my box.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQ...abc_9RSTX167QSH1QRGGXF53?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


So I'm guessing that this fan is substantially quieter than the projector would be.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Mansfieldstake

Well, my plans of acquiring a refurbished 5050 unit have ended quickly. The first unit I received was not working. I spoke with Epson on Monday who authorized a replacement unit but they said it could be weeks before one is available. Thus, I accepted their offer for a refund and instead have decided to purchase a brand new unit which is scheduled to arrive later today.

As this will be the first projector I have owned, I don't have a real basis for comparison. Is there a general checklist of items to check to ensure I have received a good unit?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Mansfieldstake said:


> Well, my plans of acquiring a refurbished 5050 unit have ended quickly. The first unit I received was not working. I spoke with Epson on Monday who authorized a replacement unit but they said it could be weeks before one is available. Thus, I accepted their offer for a refund and instead have decided to purchase a brand new unit which is scheduled to arrive later today.
> 
> As this will be the first projector I have owned, I don't have a real basis for comparison. Is there a general checklist of items to check to ensure I have received a good unit?


I noted a few things to look for here, and look a couple of posts above this one.


----------



## Maineiac12

Mansfieldstake said:


> Well, my plans of acquiring a refurbished 5050 unit have ended quickly. The first unit I received was not working. I spoke with Epson on Monday who authorized a replacement unit but they said it could be weeks before one is available. Thus, I accepted their offer for a refund and instead have decided to purchase a brand new unit which is scheduled to arrive later today.
> 
> As this will be the first projector I have owned, I don't have a real basis for comparison. Is there a general checklist of items to check to ensure I have received a good unit?


That’s funny because on Wednesday afternoon they had some stock available and I was able to get my order in. I didn’t know about the trick of adding 99 to my cart to see how many were actually available but there was at least one.

Hopefully they didn’t just turn around and sell me the one you returned.


----------



## Mansfieldstake

PixelPusher15 said:


> I noted a few things to look for here, and look a couple of posts above this one.


Excellent. I'll try those suggestions. Thank you.



Maineiac12 said:


> That’s funny because on Wednesday afternoon they had some stock available and I was able to get my order in. I didn’t know about the trick of adding 99 to my cart to see how many were actually available but there was at least one.
> 
> Hopefully they didn’t just turn around and sell me the one you returned.


I noticed that too because I still have my webpage update alert going for the refurbished units. I mentioned that to Epson and they reiterated that they didn't have any replacements available. I just checked the tracking, the unit I returned isn't scheduled to be deliver to them until Monday, so hopefully they actually have good, working unit to send you.


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> So I'm guessing that this fan is substantially quieter than the projector would be.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


The fan is quiet. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> Which IR blaster are you using?





https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_X1BP64JB33SWVAZVGKYK



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_X1BP64JB33SWVAZVGKYK
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks!


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> Yes, I use an IR extender in the box. Also, make sure you put a fan in the box, to pull the hot air out. This is the fan I'm using. It never goes above 80° in my box.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFWWZQ...abc_9RSTX167QSH1QRGGXF53?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Here's the fan kit I picked up; similar, but I wanted the paintable wood grille:








Coolerguys Dual 120mm Fan Cooling Kit with Programmable Thermal Controller


Coolerguys Dual 120mm Fan Kit Acrylic, Wood or Metal




www.coolerguys.com




Also this for the intake:








Coolerguys oak cabinet intake grill with filter


Coolerguys oak cabinet intake grill with filter




www.coolerguys.com





Haven't installed either one yet, though.  Build almost done....


----------



## mister_z1

Hello everyone
I do not know here there are people who calibrate the projector with a probe, if so, there is if you can get me out of a doubt that I have.
I am learning to calibrate and I don't know how to calibrate the gamma, I know that there is a section in the epson menu that is gamma, and there are several custom settings among them but if I measure with the chromapure and my xrite probe is not that setting. Since measuring the gamma with the chromapure I get 8 or 9 settings each with an RGB and I don't know where the setting is to be able to calibrate the gamma. I have asked several people and nobody can tell me what the parameter of gamma adjustment (there is nothing except the aforementioned) a friend has told me that the gamma may be adjusted with the parameter that puts grayscale but I do not know the truth.
could someone give me a hand?
thanks and greetings


----------



## RRF

mister_z1 said:


> Hello everyone
> I do not know here there are people who calibrate the projector with a probe, if so, there is if you can get me out of a doubt that I have.
> I am learning to calibrate and I don't know how to calibrate the gamma, I know that there is a section in the epson menu that is gamma, and there are several custom settings among them but if I measure with the chromapure and my xrite probe is not that setting. Since measuring the gamma with the chromapure I get 8 or 9 settings each with an RGB and I don't know where the setting is to be able to calibrate the gamma. I have asked several people and nobody can tell me what the parameter of gamma adjustment (there is nothing except the aforementioned) a friend has told me that the gamma may be adjusted with the parameter that puts grayscale but I do not know the truth.
> could someone give me a hand?
> thanks and greetings


Start here. 





Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews


Learn about the best calibration settings for your projector. This article is part of a series on home theater projectors from Projector Reviews




www.projectorreviews.com





The actual settings may not be ideal for your projector, but the steps will get you to understand the basic process.
Be sure to use 30IRE and 80IRE for the 2-step, and refer to the level settings for the 8-point greyscale functions.


----------



## mister_z1

RRF said:


> Start here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews
> 
> 
> Learn about the best calibration settings for your projector. This article is part of a series on home theater projectors from Projector Reviews
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorreviews.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The actual settings may not be ideal for your projector, but the steps will get you to understand the basic process.
> Be sure to use 30IRE and 80IRE for the 2-step, and refer to the level settings for the 8-point greyscale functions.


Thank you very much for a very interesting reading, the truth is that more or less I have almost everything clear but my doubt is how the gamma is calibrated, I mean the settings that I must use in the Epson to adjust it since in the custom gamma match you can raise or lower the different settings, however, when you measure with chromapure, 8 or 9 points come out and each point with its corresponding rgb. Hence my doubt, a friend has told me that the gamma is adjusted with the grayscale parameter in epson Is that so or is it not? Thanks a lot


----------



## RRF

mister_z1 said:


> Thank you very much for a very interesting reading, the truth is that more or less I have almost everything clear but my doubt is how the gamma is calibrated, I mean the settings that I must use in the Epson to adjust it since in the custom gamma match you can raise or lower the different settings, however, when you measure with chromapure, 8 or 9 points come out and each point with its corresponding rgb. Hence my doubt, a friend has told me that the gamma is adjusted with the grayscale parameter in epson Is that so or is it not? Thanks a lot


The Epson has a gamma control that will move the entire curve. But you only want to use this control after you have performed the greyscale calibration. 
The "classic" method is to adjust the overall gain (RGB) at each IRE...hence this is why Gamma measurements are always part of the Greyscale calibration in calibration software. To change the gamma at a specific IRE you would adjust each color at that IRE. Some displays will have a gain control for each IRE point that will move each RGB point simultaneously...much more convenient.


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## Tsunamijhoe

Bad news.. Just heard from my dealer regarding Epson lamps in EU.. They are impossible to get,and no date is given for restock.. This pandemic is really making me re-think my options and if one should go large size TV instead.. It's been almost 2 months since i ordered them..


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## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> .... This pandemic is really making me re-think my options and if one should go large size TV instead....


NOOOOOOO!!!!! Say it ain't so.....


----------



## mister_z1

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Bad news.. Just heard from my dealer regarding Epson lamps in EU.. They are impossible to get,and no date is given for restock.. This pandemic is really making me re-think my options and if one should go large size TV instead.. It's been almost 2 months since i ordered them..


Hello I just received mine, I bought it in Spain in a sat and projector store, if they do not have the original they may have models from other brands but compatible and I suppose they are of good quality If you want to contact or see the web is this address. www.suseo.es I hope you are lucky and they can send it to you All the best


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## Tsunamijhoe

mister_z1 said:


> Hello I just received mine, I bought it in Spain in a sat and projector store, if they do not have the original they may have models from other brands but compatible and I suppose they are of good quality If you want to contact or see the web is this address. www.suseo.es I hope you are lucky and they can send it to you All the best


Thank you,but i dont speak spanish and the projector is not on the list of lamps they carry,and a search for elplp89 reveal no hits,besides i am not buying another aftermarket lamp until i know 100% it will fit.. I have written all the shops i can find that carry the lamp, if they will measure the screws on the lamps they have in stock..


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## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> NOOOOOOO!!!!! Say it ain't so.....


Hehe, what other options do i have? The projector is my sole video source and lamps are impossible to get.. We have no idea when production will come back up.. At least with an 86" TV i wont have that problem,and i can adjust my viewing distance to compensate if need be.. I HATE going smaller.. I bought a samsung q60t 65" while i was waiting for the epson to get in stock,and i never got used to the small size as i have had 123" since 1999.. The TV i have put back in its box as a backup, but it is too low quality as a main source,so i will be giving it away to my sister and look at the q90t model instead..If no lamp has materialized within 6 weeks,i am forced to look elsewhere,simple as that..


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Hehe, what other options do i have? The projector is my sole video source and lamps are impossible to get.. We have no idea when production will come back up.. At least with an 86" TV i wont have that problem,and i can adjust my viewing distance to compensate if need be.. I HATE going smaller.. I bought a samsung q60t 65" while i was waiting for the epson to get in stock,and i never got used to the small size as i have had 123" since 1999.. The TV i have put back in its box as a backup, but it is too low quality as a main source,so i will be giving it away to my sister and look at the q90t model instead..If no lamp has materialized within 6 weeks,i am forced to look elsewhere,simple as that..


Do I recall incorrectly, I thought your lamp has about 1200 hours on it? If so, there's plenty of time. Big TVs will always be available, so what's the rush?


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> Do I recall incorrectly, I thought your lamp has about 1200 hours on it? If so, there's plenty of time. Big TVs will always be available, so what's the rush?


And to that end, TVs change/improve very rapidly, so the longer you wait to buy one the better.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> Do I recall incorrectly, I thought your lamp has about 1200 hours on it? If so, there's plenty of time. Big TVs will always be available, so what's the rush?


Lamp is at 1800hrs almost,i usually change at 2000, but if the epson lamps are better than the sony and last longer i will wait a while.. The rush is that the TVs are getting sold out too,and also going out of stock,as well as a lot of other electronics.. I use my projector minimum 10hrs a day


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Lamp is at 1800hrs almost,i usually change at 2000, but if the epson lamps are better than the sony and last longer i will wait a while.. The rush is that the TVs are getting sold out too,and also going out of stock,as well as a lot of other electronics.. I use my projector minimum 10hrs a day


A buddy of mine was in a different but somewhat similar position not too long ago but mainly for financial issues. Long story short. He adjusted his viewing habits. Non critical viewing is now done on his 27" desktop system, he saves the projector for movies only. 

Perhaps if you can cut it back to 4 hours daily average, that can get you about a year and a half if you can stretch your lamp change to 3000 hours.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> A buddy of mine was in a different but somewhat similar position not too long ago but mainly for financial issues. Long story short. He adjusted his viewing habits. Non critical viewing is now done on his 27" desktop system, he saves the projector for movies only.
> 
> Perhaps if you can cut it back to 4 hours daily average, that can get you about a year and a half if you can stretch your lamp change to 3000 hours.


not gonna happen.. Like i said,its my only source of video. A work accident has forced me to lie down a lot which is why i watch so much tv and movies and play ps4. There is no way i am going back to reading books 10 hrs a day,, Mostly because i cant keep my eyes open when trying to read :-D


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> not gonna happen.. Like i said,its my only source of video. A work accident has forced me to lie down a lot which is why i watch so much tv and movies and play ps4. There is no way i am going back to reading books 10 hrs a day,, Mostly because i cant keep my eyes open when trying to read :-D


I'm very very sorry. I didn't mean to pry. Hopefully, things will work out with the projector and you can continue to enjoy your viewing in a manner that still provides the enjoyment that you've grown accustomed to.


----------



## AVTimme

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Lamp is at 1800hrs almost,i usually change at 2000, but if the epson lamps are better than the sony and last longer i will wait a while.. The rush is that the TVs are getting sold out too,and also going out of stock,as well as a lot of other electronics.. I use my projector minimum 10hrs a day


The Epson lamp should be good for 4000h in medium mode and 5000 in eco so you will probably be fine


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> I'm very very sorry. I didn't mean to pry. Hopefully, things will work out with the projector and you can continue to enjoy your viewing in a manner that still provides the enjoyment that you've grown accustomed to.


No worries, except worrying about getting the lamps ;-).. 
I know lamps are rated for 4000hrs but in my humble experience, i have NEVER had one that went past 2000hrs without significant lower light output. Like i said, i hope epson lamps prove better than optoma and sony. Sony even claimed 6000hrs, but the most i have EVER run a lamp on the sony was 2200hrs before it began to flicker and the light was so diminished i couldnt watch films like the hobbit as the whole mine sequences were so dark i couldnt see what was happening..
Ofcourse the epson has a lot more lumens at the outset,but still.. I see others here who also routinely change lamps around the 2k mark..
But i am not worried, i just dont like not having a backup as the projector is my only source at present.

I am saving for Arendal 1723 speakers but those funds might go towards a samsung q80t instead,but for now i aint sweating..

Now,x-fingers and enough lamp talk..


----------



## Kieran

I think I'll just place my order for a new lamp the day my new epson is first turned on. Should arrive by the time I reach 2000 hours. 
(I think I'm joking. Should I really do this?)


----------



## Maineiac12

The pro series projectors come with an extra lamp in the box. Maybe contact some theater shops and see if they have a new customer willing to part with their new spare lamp for a price?


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> I think I'll just place my order for a new lamp the day my new epson is first turned on. Should arrive by the time I reach 2000 hours.
> (I think I'm joking. Should I really do this?)


Buy a 6050UB instead of the 5050. You get an extra lamp. Then you should be good until the next crisis.


----------



## msankadi

fredworld said:


> Buy a 6050UB instead of the 5050. You get an extra lamp. Then you should be good until the next crisis.


I bought the tw9400 (similar to 6050ub) a month ago in India. Here the replacement lamps are pretty easily available everywhere. I read on the forum that it is not advisable to buy a new lamp and keep it in store for a couple of years.

Do you think I should buy one now (I just have 30 hours on my new pj) or wait till next year with about 1000 hrs on the lamp and then evaluate?


----------



## fredworld

msankadi said:


> I bought the tw9400 (similar to 6050ub) a month ago in India. Here the replacement lamps are pretty easily available everywhere. I read on the forum that it is not advisable to buy a new lamp and keep it in store for a couple of years.
> 
> Do you think I should buy one now (I just have 30 hours on my new pj) or wait till next year with about 1000 hrs on the lamp and then evaluate?


I just got a spare lamp at 1100 hours. Its in the PJ now and I'm holding the old one as a spare. That's because new lamps from Epson are difficult to come by.


----------



## ROAD5

fredworld said:


> You should bookmark this: Projector Firmware Updates | Epson US
> Follow *the instructions* precisely.
> Be sure you download the update onto a FAT32 formatted USB that's empty of anything but the FW.
> Unplug the projector from the power source.
> Insert the USB to USB port-A
> Hold down the Power button then connect the power cord while still holding down the projector's Power button.
> Release the Power button as soon as all the indicator lights come on (update mode).
> When the update finishes in about 75 seconds the projector will turn off.


Just had my projector installed last weekend. The installer recommended not updating the firmware. Do you all agree with this? I know sometimes this can create problems and there is good reason to not upgrade. 

Also, I have a Pioneer SC-95 receiver that is supposed to show the volume on screen. Worked great with previous TV it was connected to, but now shows up only sporadically with the Epson. Any ideas what might be going on?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

ROAD5 said:


> Just had my projector installed last weekend. The installer recommended not updating the firmware. Do you all agree with this? I know sometimes this can create problems and there is good reason to not upgrade.
> 
> Also, I have a Pioneer SC-95 receiver that is supposed to show the volume on screen. Worked great with previous TV it was connected to, but now shows up only sporadically with the Epson. Any ideas what might be going on?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


There are a number of posts on this thread noting the subjective improvements that the latest FW has on this projector. I'm unaware of any issues other than user installation error.

As for the volume display, try turning off CEC. And what cable length are you using? I hope this helps.


----------



## PixelPusher15

ROAD5 said:


> Also, I have a Pioneer SC-95 receiver that is supposed to show the volume on screen. Worked great with previous TV it was connected to, but now shows up only sporadically with the Epson. Any ideas what might be going on?


Maybe try updating the Epson’s firmware?....


Sorry, I had to. 🤣 I haven’t heard of any issues with btw.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> Maybe try updating the Epson’s firmware?....
> 
> 
> Sorry, I had to. 🤣 I haven’t heard of any issues with btw.


Good advice actually. The latest FW addresses connectivity issues.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

msankadi said:


> I bought the tw9400 (similar to 6050ub) a month ago in India. Here the replacement lamps are pretty easily available everywhere. I read on the forum that it is not advisable to buy a new lamp and keep it in store for a couple of years.
> 
> Do you think I should buy one now (I just have 30 hours on my new pj) or wait till next year with about 1000 hrs on the lamp and then evaluate?


Wait.. Depending on your usage,which seems to be low,there is no need to have a lamp lying in storage for years before you need it,unles you want a backup in case of emergency. That said, they dont go bad,so either way you should do as you think necessary.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Good advice actually. The latest FW addresses connectivity issues.


Here I am trying to be funny and I actually might have been helpful lol.


----------



## PixelPusher15

This is my first projector with a manual iris adjustment. What are y'all setting yours to?

I see that it can increase contrast but at the expense of brightness. For SDR content I've noticed I actually like to set it at something around -15 and have my power set to Eco. For HDR I feel like it's a battle between better blacks and better highlights. Both are important for HDR.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> This is my first projector with a manual iris adjustment. What are y'all setting yours to?
> 
> I see that it can increase contrast but at the expense of brightness. For SDR content I've noticed I actually like to set it at something around -15 and have my power set to Eco. For HDR I feel like it's a battle between better blacks and better highlights. Both are important for HDR.


I leave mine at the default setting, whatever it is. For my other settings I use the Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc and I'm happy.


----------



## Gellert1

Mine stays off since I have a dark grey screen. Black levels and contrast are perfect.


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## PixelPusher15

Gellert1 said:


> Mine stays off since I have a dark grey screen. Black levels and contrast are perfect.


Curious, what screen are you using?


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> Curious, what screen are you using?


Are we talking about the Auto Iris or the Manual Iris Slider? I had replied regarding the Manual slider. My Auto Iris is off.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Are we talking about the Auto Iris or the Manual Iris Slider? I had replied regarding the Manual slider. My Auto Iris is off.


I was talkin' bout the manual iris slider, not the auto iris. 

I'm still in the throws of calibrating and trying all the settings. Just curious what others are doing. My auto iris is at high speed fwiw.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> I was talkin' bout the manual iris slider, not the auto iris.
> 
> I'm still in the throws of calibrating and trying all the settings. Just curious what others are doing. My auto iris is at high speed fwiw.


Even though you didn't specifically ask, here are *my thoughts on using Auto Iris*.


----------



## DaGamePimp

The manual iris setting will vary by user (as it should) since it is a room/screen related adjustment.

Regarding calibration... be sure to set the manual iris pre-cal and leave the auto iris off while calibrating. 

- Jason


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> Buy a 6050UB instead of the 5050. You get an extra lamp. Then you should be good until the next crisis.


I don't think my vision will perceive the differences between the 6050 and 5050 as being worth the price difference, even when adding the cost of a new epson bulb to the 5050. Plus my 5050 is paid for already at a sale price from november 2020, so that adds even more to the price difference.


----------



## Werewolf79

PixelPusher15 said:


> This is my first projector with a manual iris adjustment. What are y'all setting yours to?
> 
> I see that it can increase contrast but at the expense of brightness. For SDR content I've noticed I actually like to set it at something around -15 and have my power set to Eco. For HDR I feel like it's a battle between better blacks and better highlights. Both are important for HDR.


The manual iris does not increase contrast, it just lowers brightness, I already discussed this a long time ago in this thread, I have a meter so I can check contrast among other things, only the dynamic iris affects contrast levels and has an excellent effect on contrast.

Some people don’t like using the auto iris, I use it and do not notice any issues other than the occasional movie titles.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Werewolf79 said:


> The manual iris does not increase contrast, it just lowers brightness, I already discussed this a long time ago in this thread, I have a meter so I can check contrast among other things, only the dynamic iris affects contrast levels and has an excellent effect on contrast.
> 
> Some people don’t like using the auto iris, I use it and do not notice any issues other than the occasional movie titles.


So the manual is lying?


----------



## Gellert1

PixelPusher15 said:


> Curious, what screen are you using?


My screen is a custom made 150" cinescope built by an AV installer in Austin, Texas. Gain is approximately 1.3.
In a dark room, the left and right sides are completely black when viewing 16:9 content. No need for any iris adjusting shenanigans. It stays permanently off. (I too, will need a new bulb soon, like many others).


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> So the manual is lying?


I wouldn't say that either the manual or @Werewolf79 are lying. Both are correct.
A simple dumb iris CAN affect contrast, but it's not doing it smartly. By reducing the overall light, contrast ratio CAN be improved IF the black levels drop too (by more than the white levels) which does happen in certain situations / with certain projectors, and probably only in very well treated full black theater rooms.


----------



## Werewolf79

Kieran said:


> I wouldn't say that either the manual or @Werewolf79 are lying. Both are correct.
> A simple dumb iris CAN affect contrast, but it's not doing it smartly. By reducing the overall light, contrast ratio CAN be improved IF the black levels drop too (by more than the white levels) which does happen in certain situations / with certain projectors, and probably only in very well treated full black theater rooms.


My room is full black velvet on all walls, dark carpet on the floor.

See post below and sorry for the confusion.


----------



## Werewolf79

PixelPusher15 said:


> So the manual is lying?
> View attachment 3109734


I need to clarify something about contrast figures and especially reviews of this projector.

I have a bright cinema mode calibrated around 95%, the mode doesn’t allow complete accuracy on contrast so when you look at faces as an example in some situations their is not enough shadow detail, but that bright cinema mode in medium lamp is putting out 43 ft lambert brightness, if I remember correctly with dynamic iris on it achieves 23,000:1 contrast ratio figures.

Now the problem is this, and reviews don’t mention it enough, who is going to watch that in a dark room environment, your eyes hurt very quickly at these screen sizes with that level of brightness and sitting just nine feet away.

I calibrate to 18 ft lambert for Blu ray and standard HD tv content and I have it at 22ft lambert for UHD SDR content, the recommended figures for dark room viewing to my understanding is usually between 12ft lambert and 16ft lambert so I like my content a little brighter but not to the extent my eyes hurt, I send a UHD signal as SDR from my Panasonic player.

So yes you can technically have much higher contrast but in my opinion it comes at the expense of sore eyes if viewing anything in the dark, my belief is that the manual iris was added to control light on this light cannon of a projector, that way a person with a 92 inch screen as I have can close the iris down to -16 and a person with a 140 inch screen or bigger can open the iris up, all the way to 0 if they wish, when calibrated the contrast should be similar to what I achieve at calibrated viewing levels.

Sorry for the confusion, I had to think more about this, I forget reviews often look to tell us what the highest possible figures are without always mentioning that in a calibrated state we will not achieve those figures and I always choose a calibrated state for critical viewing.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Werewolf79 said:


> I need to clarify something about contrast figures and especially reviews of this projector.
> 
> I have a bright cinema mode calibrated around 95%, the mode doesn’t allow complete accuracy on contrast so when you look at faces as an example in some situations their is not enough shadow detail, but that bright cinema mode in medium lamp is putting out 43 ft lambert brightness, if I remember correctly with dynamic iris on it achieves 23,000:1 contrast ratio figures.
> 
> Now the problem is this, and reviews don’t mention it enough, who is going to watch that in a dark room environment, your eyes hurt very quickly at these screen sizes with that level of brightness and sitting just nine feet away.
> 
> I calibrate to 18 ft lambert for Blu ray and standard HD tv content and I have it at 22ft lambert for UHD SDR content, the recommended figures for dark room viewing to my understanding is usually between 12ft lambert and 16ft lambert so I like my content a little brighter but not to the extent my eyes hurt, I send a UHD signal as SDR from my Panasonic player.
> 
> So yes you can technically have much higher contrast but in my opinion it comes at the expense of sore eyes if viewing anything in the dark, my belief is that the manual iris was added to control light on this light cannon of a projector, that way a person with a 92 inch screen as I have can close the iris down to -16 and a person with a 140 inch screen or bigger can open the iris up, all the way to 0 if they wish, when calibrated the contrast should be similar to what I achieve at calibrated viewing levels.
> 
> Sorry for the confusion, I had to think more about this, I forget reviews often look to tell us what the highest possible figures are without always mentioning that in a calibrated state we will not achieve those figures and I always choose a calibrated state for critical viewing.


Sorry if I came off like I was accusing you of lying. Not my intent. I realized it might have seemed like that. 

I'm thinking about it more and trying to understand how Epson could say it is changing contrast. If the manual iris control is adjusting the amount of light passing through then I thought it would be doing it proportionally. If you get 0.001 nits for 0IRE and 100 nits 100IRE your contrast is 200,000. If you get 0.0005/50 nits respectively then your contrast is still 200,000. What you described fits this scenario. I also agree that this projector even at medium brightness is eye-blinding. I'm on 120" and for 16x9 SDR content I have my manual iris at -20 now, and my screen is light grey spandex. Hey, maybe me and my wife are sensitive to light but, that's 100% bonus because I'll get longer bulb life 😃 

@SirMaster (hope you don't mind me tagging you) mentioned to me in the HCFR calibration thread that closing the iris can give more contrast. Maybe he can explain how it works? Hopefully, lol.


----------



## groggrog

Time to revisit an old topic: Epson 5050UB and 4k SDR/HDR/HDR10 looking very dark/dim even with brightness boosted. Today I'm trying to watch the NCAA basketball games in 4k via Fubo and Fox Sports. According to their documentation, both apps support 4K HDR on Nvidia Shield, Apple TV, and Xbox One. Both apps on all three devices look dark/dim and are pretty much unwatchable when compared to their 1080p counterparts. All three show up as SDR according to the 5050UB so I don't have the ability to increase HDR10 brightness. Have had this issue before when I used Directv and it was because they were broadcasting HLG, and I don't think that's the case here. Upgraded to 1.04 firmware but no difference. All devices going through a Marantz SR7015 with only very high quality HDMI cables. Seems like a perfect setup, but not so much. Any tricks someone can recommend to get the real 4k experience with this combo? Thanks very much.


----------



## fredworld

groggrog said:


> Time to revisit an old topic: Epson 5050UB and 4k SDR/HDR/HDR10 looking very dark/dim even with brightness boosted. Today I'm trying to watch the NCAA basketball games in 4k via Fubo and Fox Sports. According to their documentation, both apps support 4K HDR on Nvidia Shield, Apple TV, and Xbox One. Both apps on all three devices look dark/dim and are pretty much unwatchable when compared to their 1080p counterparts. All three show up as SDR according to the 5050UB so I don't have the ability to increase HDR10 brightness. Have had this issue before when I used Directv and it was because they were broadcasting HLG, and I don't think that's the case here. Upgraded to 1.04 firmware but no difference. All devices going through a Marantz SR7015 with only very high quality HDMI cables. Seems like a perfect setup, but not so much. Any tricks someone can recommend to get the real 4k experience with this combo? Thanks very much.


Have you moved the HDR slider?


----------



## groggrog

fredworld said:


> Have you moved the HDR slider?


Can't, it's not coming up as HDR, just SDR.


----------



## fredworld

groggrog said:


> Can't, it's not coming up as HDR, just SDR.


Try toggling inputs on the Marantz. Slowly.


----------



## PixelPusher15

groggrog said:


> Time to revisit an old topic: Epson 5050UB and 4k SDR/HDR/HDR10 looking very dark/dim even with brightness boosted. Today I'm trying to watch the NCAA basketball games in 4k via Fubo and Fox Sports. According to their documentation, both apps support 4K HDR on Nvidia Shield, Apple TV, and Xbox One. Both apps on all three devices look dark/dim and are pretty much unwatchable when compared to their 1080p counterparts. All three show up as SDR according to the 5050UB so I don't have the ability to increase HDR10 brightness. Have had this issue before when I used Directv and it was because they were broadcasting HLG, and I don't think that's the case here. Upgraded to 1.04 firmware but no difference. All devices going through a Marantz SR7015 with only very high quality HDMI cables. Seems like a perfect setup, but not so much. Any tricks someone can recommend to get the real 4k experience with this combo? Thanks very much.


I'm watching Seton Hall and St Johns right now on my ATV4K and it's only showing up as 4K, no HDR. It's maybe a tad dim to me but it doesn't look like bad HDR dim to me. Are you sure this is supposed to be an HDR stream?

BTW, I didn't know Fox was streaming 4K in their apps like this. I'm really excited now lol.


----------



## groggrog

fredworld said:


> Try toggling inputs on the Marantz. Slowly.





fredworld said:


> Try toggling inputs on the Marantz. Slowly.


Makes no difference. Now I have brightness on the 5050UB up to 71 and it looks better but still dull.


----------



## PixelPusher15

groggrog said:


> Makes no difference. Now I have brightness on the 5050UB up to 71 and it looks better but still dull.


Bumping the brightness like that is just going to crush highlights. I'm guessing you tried bumping up power consumption and using something like Natural or Bright Cinema. Did you check what your manual iris was set to? (just learned about that one lol)


----------



## fredworld

groggrog said:


> Makes no difference. Now I have brightness on the 5050UB up to 71 and it looks better but still dull.


I have it on now. Same game. Sorry to say but it looks GREAT!!! AND it's HDR but my setting is in 2. Sorry I can't help.


----------



## groggrog

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'm watching Seton Hall and St Johns right now on my ATV4K and it's only showing up as 4K, no HDR. It's maybe a tad dim to me but it doesn't look like bad HDR dim to me. Are you sure this is supposed to be an HDR stream?


Nope not sure. Shows up as SDR on the projector no matter what app/device I use.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> I have it on now. Same game. Sorry to say but it looks GREAT!!! AND it's HDR but my setting is in 2. Sorry I can't help.


On your Roku?


----------



## groggrog

fredworld said:


> I have it on now. Same game. Sorry to say but it looks GREAT!!! AND it's HDR but my setting is in 2. Sorry I can't help.


What do you mean by "in 2"?


----------



## groggrog

PixelPusher15 said:


> Bumping the brightness like that is just going to crush highlights. I'm guessing you tried bumping up power consumption and using something like Natural or Bright Cinema. Did you check what your manual iris was set to? (just learned about that one lol)


I typically keep it on Dynamic. Just tried Bright Cinema, pretty much the same, and Natural which is even darker. I keep auto-iris off and power consumption high. Thx


----------



## fredworld

fredworld said:


> I have it on now. Same game. Sorry to say but it looks GREAT!!! AND it's HDR but my setting is in 2. Sorry I can't help.


Sorry if I appear to be rubbing it in.


----------



## groggrog

fredworld said:


> I have it on now. Same game. Sorry to say but it looks GREAT!!! AND it's HDR but my setting is in 2. Sorry I can't help.


Wondering if settings on the Marantz are affecting it...


----------



## fredworld

groggrog said:


> What do you mean by "in 2"?


Sorry. I fatfingered. Meant " on 2."


----------



## groggrog

fredworld said:


> Sorry if I appear to be rubbing it in.


Yeah that's pretty perfect :-(


----------



## groggrog

fredworld said:


> Sorry. I fatfingered. Meant " on 2."


LOL what is on 2? Brightness?


----------



## SirMaster

PixelPusher15 said:


> @SirMaster (hope you don't mind me tagging you) mentioned to me in the HCFR calibration thread that closing the iris can give more contrast. Maybe he can explain how it works? Hopefully, lol.


Well, all lenses have internal reflections of light, and any light that gets reflected backwards out of phase reduces contrast.

Closing the aperture reduces the area of the lens being used and reduces the amount of reflections.

Essentially, the black level reduces "linearly" as the aperture closes, but the white level reduces less than that as a ratio, because as the aperture closes, there's less reflections and less light cancelation.


----------



## PixelPusher15

@groggrog @fredworld

I don't think it's the Marantz if you are getting HDR through other stuff fine. The difference I see is that fredworld seems to be using a Roku Ultra base on his signature. I'm not seeing HDR on my ATV4k

I guess I can break out the Ultra I'm about to sell and see if I get it there. Ah wait, I've got a new ROku stick on a compatible display. I'll check that out.


----------



## PixelPusher15

SirMaster said:


> Well, all lenses have internal reflections of light, and any light that gets reflected backwards out of phase reduces contrast.
> 
> Closing the aperture reduces the area of the lens being used and reduces the amount of reflections.
> 
> Essentially, the black level reduces "linearly" as the aperture closes, but the white level reduces less than that as a ratio, because as the aperture closes, there's less reflections and less light cancelation.


Sweet. Thanks for the explanation and chiming in here. Sounds like the lower I can drop that setting while still enjoying the light output would deliver the best image.


----------



## fredworld

These are my Marantz settings for Video output. Also,bin using a Roku Ultra as my streamer.


groggrog said:


> LOL what is on 2? Brightness?


My HDR Slider.


----------



## groggrog

PixelPusher15 said:


> @groggrog @fredworld
> 
> I don't think it's the Marantz if you are getting HDR through other stuff fine. The difference I see is that fredworld seems to be using a Roku Ultra base on his signature. I'm not seeing HDR on my ATV4k
> 
> I guess I can break out the Ultra I'm about to sell and see if I get it there. Ah wait, I've got a new ROku stick on a compatible display. I'll check that out.


Ah, hoping not to have to get a Roku. Can't stand the interface, but if it fixes my 4k problems I'm all in!


----------



## groggrog

fredworld said:


> These are my Marantz settings for Video output. Also,bin using a Roku Ultra as my streamer.
> 
> My HDR Slider.


Just matched your settings, NG. Maybe it's the Roku?


----------



## groggrog

groggrog said:


> Just matched your settings, NG. Maybe it's the Roku?


Also which app are you using, Fox Sports or Fubo?


----------



## fredworld

groggrog said:


> Just matched your settings, NG. Maybe it's the Roku?


Perhaps it is. My Roku Ultra settings shiw, "Detected 4K HDR10 at 60hz HDCP2.2." So, it's reading the projector correctly.


----------



## fredworld

fredworld said:


> Perhaps it is. My Roku Ultra settings shiw, "Detected 4K HDR10 at 60hz HDCP2.2." So, it's reading the projector correctly.


Fox Sports


----------



## PixelPusher15

groggrog said:


> Just matched your settings, NG. Maybe it's the Roku?


😕
This is a Roku Streaming Stick+ on a cheap 4 series TCL tv. It’s the Roku.


----------



## PixelPusher15

@groggrog i get why this is an issue for you. If you’re running in high and dynamic you have no headroom for dim content. I’d open my iris a bit or go to medium power for this content since it is a tad dim.

Curious what your setup is to need the 5050 in torch mode. Is it just battling ambient light?


----------



## groggrog

PixelPusher15 said:


> @groggrog i get why this is an issue for you. If you’re running in high and dynamic you have no headroom for dim content. I’d open my iris a bit or go to medium power for this content since it is a tad dim.
> 
> Curious what your setup is to need the 5050 in torch mode. Is it just battling ambient light?


Yeah it's the ambient light. Will probably look better when it gets dark out.


----------



## groggrog

groggrog said:


> Yeah it's the ambient light. Will probably look better when it gets dark out.


Trying with a new Chromecast Ultra now but can't figure out how to stream 4k to it since it's not available in the iOS app I'm using to cast it. Nothing's easy. To Amazon for a Roku! Thanks for everyone's help...


----------



## PixelPusher15

groggrog said:


> Trying with a new Chromecast Ultra now but can't figure out how to stream 4k to it since it's not available in the iOS app I'm using to cast it. Nothing's easy. To Amazon for a Roku! Thanks for everyone's help...


Np. I have a few rokus and roku TVs. The Roku Ultra is nice hardware wise, the remote is great because it comes with 2 buttons that you can map to voice commands. I used it to map to YouTube TV and one of the other services that didn't already come on the button. The actual Ultra allows an ethernet hookup too, which is nice if you care about that. Other than that, the cheapo Streaming Stick+ works and is cheap.

Now I need to decide if I'm going to keep the Roku or not. I got the ATV4K to make the 4010 I had before work but I liked having the ATV4K integrated with my other mac stuff and I thought the streaming quality was a bit better. Hmmm, maybe I "need" both? 4K HDR sports sounds sweet.

Edit: I found the reason and this is sad:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/appletv/comments/j7ppp9/_/g86bq51

Apparently, the ATV4k doesn't support streams of 4K HDR @ 60fps. I def need two devices.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Sorry if I came off like I was accusing you of lying. Not my intent. I realized it might have seemed like that.
> 
> I'm thinking about it more and trying to understand how Epson could say it is changing contrast. If the manual iris control is adjusting the amount of light passing through then I thought it would be doing it proportionally. If you get 0.001 nits for 0IRE and 100 nits 100IRE your contrast is 200,000. If you get 0.0005/50 nits respectively then your contrast is still 200,000. What you described fits this scenario. I also agree that this projector even at medium brightness is eye-blinding. I'm on 120" and for 16x9 SDR content I have my manual iris at -20 now, and my screen is light grey spandex. Hey, maybe me and my wife are sensitive to light but, that's 100% bonus because I'll get longer bulb life 😃
> 
> @SirMaster (hope you don't mind me tagging you) mentioned to me in the HCFR calibration thread that closing the iris can give more contrast. Maybe he can explain how it works? Hopefully, lol.


First, it's not a straight linear relationship, due to bright areas' affect on the dark areas in a given image on screen.
I find it easier to think of it the other way: opening the iris can decrease contrast. Why? Because the extra light ruins the blacks more than it helps the brights. Bright sections bleed into dark sections of the image. Excess light causes ambient reflections, etc. So when you reduce the overall light, the darks improve (or can improve) more than the amount that the bright areas get dimmer. So the overall contrast improves. A little.


----------



## Kieran

groggrog said:


> Wondering if settings on the Marantz are affecting it...


Can you temporarily bypass the Marantz, just to test the image with a direct connection?


----------



## groggrog

PixelPusher15 said:


> Np. I have a few rokus and roku TVs. The Roku Ultra is nice hardware wise, the remote is great because it comes with 2 buttons that you can map to voice commands. I used it to map to YouTube TV and one of the other services that didn't already come on the button. The actual Ultra allows an ethernet hookup too, which is nice if you care about that. Other than that, the cheapo Streaming Stick+ works and is cheap.
> 
> Now I need to decide if I'm going to keep the Roku or not. I got the ATV4K to make the 4010 I had before work but I liked having the ATV4K integrated with my other mac stuff and I thought the streaming quality was a bit better. Hmmm, maybe I "need" both? 4K HDR sports sounds sweet.
> 
> Edit: I found the reason and this is sad:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/appletv/comments/j7ppp9/_/g86bq51
> 
> Apparently, the ATV4k doesn't support streams of 4K HDR @ 60fps. I def need two devices.


Choices choices!


----------



## Kieran

Kieran said:


> First, it's not a straight linear relationship, due to bright areas' affect on the dark areas in a given image on screen.
> I find it easier to think of it the other way: opening the iris can decrease contrast. Why? Because the extra light ruins the blacks more than it helps the brights. Bright sections bleed into dark sections of the image. Excess light causes ambient reflections, etc. So when you reduce the overall light, the darks improve (or can improve) more than the amount that the bright areas get dimmer. So the overall contrast improves. A little.


Apparently @SirMaster beat me to it. His comments on the lens reflections are correct too (although the Epson lens is pretty good) but also the effects on the screen are sort of similar as I described.


----------



## groggrog

Kieran said:


> Can you temporarily bypass the Marantz, just to test the image with a direct connection?


Unfortunately everything's in a closet so it'd be really tough to do. Gonna get the Roku Ultra and see how that goes. Thx


----------



## KK in CT

groggrog said:


> Can't, it's not coming up as HDR, just SDR.


If you have match frame rate on try turning that off. I haven’t setup my projector yet - theater almost done, but on our OLED with AppleTV 4K it won’t do the HDR until I turn off match frame rate. Then much better picture. Hope that helps.


----------



## groggrog

KK in CT said:


> If you have match frame rate on try turning that off. I haven’t setup my projector yet - theater almost done, but on our OLED with AppleTV 4K it won’t do the HDR until I turn off match frame rate. Then much better picture. Hope that helps.


You win!! Turned off frame rate and dynamic range on Apple TV, using Fox Sports app, HDR10 and looks PERFECT!! This should go in an FAQ somewhere. Thank You!!!


----------



## KK in CT

groggrog said:


> You win!! Turned off frame rate and dynamic range on Apple TV, using Fox Sports app, HDR10 and looks PERFECT!! This should go in an FAQ somewhere. Thank You!!!


Glad it worked and will remember for when my projector is setup. Yeah that drove me crazy a while back too. Enjoy the games! Some good ones so far.


----------



## groggrog

KK in CT said:


> Glad it worked and will remember for when my projector is setup. Yeah that drove me crazy a while back too. Enjoy the games! Some good ones so far.


May have written too soon. Noticing that now everything on the Apple TV shows as HDR10, even 720p and the menu, so can't really tell if it's actually using 4k or not. Going to try out the Roku when I receive it and see if it's any better. For those that are watching in HDR10, is it everything or just the things that should be?


----------



## PixelPusher15

groggrog said:


> May have written too soon. Noticing that now everything on the Apple TV shows as HDR10, even 720p and the menu, so can't really tell if it's actually using 4k or not. Going to try out the Roku when I receive it and see if it's any better. For those that are watching in HDR10, is it everything or just the things that should be?


The fox app badges things as HDR when it delivers a HDR stream. I’d check the lower left corner of the thumbnail when selecting a game. I have my suspicion that it isn’t HDR. Instead the ATV is add the hdr


----------



## groggrog

PixelPusher15 said:


> The fox app badges things as HDR when it delivers a HDR stream. I’d check the lower left corner of the thumbnail when selecting a game. I have my suspicion that it isn’t HDR. Instead the ATV is add the hdr


Yeah that's what it seems like, especially when everything is showing HDR, even regular apps.


----------



## KK in CT

groggrog said:


> Yeah that's what it seems like, especially when everything is showing HDR, even regular apps.


Dang. Maybe it’s different with projector vs TV?


----------



## fredworld

groggrog said:


> May have written too soon. Noticing that now everything on the Apple TV shows as HDR10, even 720p and the menu, so can't really tell if it's actually using 4k or not. Going to try out the Roku when I receive it and see if it's any better. For those that are watching in HDR10, is it everything or just the things that should be?


Just what should be. The title page is labeled as 4K, HDR, ATMOS, etc, or HD, 5.1 if that's how it's streaming.


----------



## groggrog

fredworld said:


> Just what should be. The title page is labeled as 4K, HDR, ATMOS, etc, or HD, 5.1 if that's how it's streaming.


Except when everything shows up in HDR whether it's HDR or not. Basically it's all or none. How it's working now is either everything is hdr10 or nothing is. Knowing that everything is really NOT broadcast in hdr10, it brings everything into doubt. Even so, it does look better now than it did by having range and frame both off.


----------



## fredworld

groggrog said:


> Except when everything shows up in HDR whether it's HDR or not. Basically it's all or none. How it's working now is either everything is hdr10 or nothing is. Knowing that everything is really NOT broadcast in hdr10, it brings everything into doubt. Even so, it does look better now than it did by having range and frame both off.


Sorry. I was referencing how my Roku Ultra displays.


----------



## Mike V

I have a chance to pick up the European model EH-TW6000 and am planning to use it exclusively for outdoor movies as the weather warms up. There will be cool nights as well as humid nights. Any thoughts on how this unit will handle these types of weather conditions?


----------



## Kieran

Got a small delivery yesterday...


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> Got a small delivery yesterday...
> View attachment 3111018


Ooooohhhhh!!!!! 🎬
I hope the lamp works. 😉


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> Ooooohhhhh!!!!! 🎬
> I hope the lamp works. 😉


Hahahahaha... stop it. :|
Seriously though, I probably can't even turn it on for a couple weeks still. I suppose I could project it onto a wall from a coffee table just to play around.... But I need to get the screen installed in order to know where to cut the hole in the soffit for the lens. I will have very little horizontal lens shift available (need most of the vertical) so want to make sure I follow the "measure once, cut three times" rule. 
Wait, that's not what I meant....


----------



## RRF

Kieran said:


> Hahahahaha... stop it. :|
> Seriously though, I probably can't even turn it on for a couple weeks still. I suppose I could project it onto a wall from a coffee table just to play around.... But I need to get the screen installed in order to know where to cut the hole in the soffit for the lens. I will have very little horizontal lens shift available (need most of the vertical) so want to make sure I follow the "measure once, cut three times" rule.
> Wait, that's not what I meant....


When you measure, be sure to confirm your room is square. If you measure the center of the screen from the sidewall, and use that same measurement to position the projector, if the room is not square it could be off. Don't ask how I know...😐 With a shelf in the soffit you have a bit of play tho.


----------



## Kieran

RRF said:


> When you measure, be sure to confirm your room is square. If you measure the center of the screen from the sidewall, and use that same measurement to position the projector, if the room is not square it could be off. Don't ask how I know...😐 With a shelf in the soffit you have a bit of play tho.


Yeah, I've been trying to think of a way of geometrically locating where the lens hole should be. I need to be able to project a line perpendicular to the CENTER of the screen, onto the soffit. I'm pretty good with math, could do this on paper. Just not sure how to construct it _in the room_ so to speak, without relying on the assumptions that the walls are all parallel & perpendicular to each other.
@BIGmouthinDC maybe you have some suggestions/ideas?


----------



## fredworld

Mike V said:


> I have a chance to pick up the European model EH-TW6000 and am planning to use it exclusively for outdoor movies as the weather warms up. There will be cool nights as well as humid nights. Any thoughts on how this unit will handle these types of weather conditions?


Might be best to contact Epson with that question, unless someone here has personal experience with outdoor use. According to the specs:
*Operating Temperature:*41 ° to 95 °F (5 ° to 35 °C


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> Might be best to contact Epson with that question, unless someone here has personal experience with outdoor use. According to the specs:
> *Operating Temperature:*41 ° to 95 °F (5 ° to 35 °C


I'd be most concerned with humidity than temperature. Most outdoor use is at night, in the summer. Very likely under 95F and over 41F; but humidity is harder to pin down sometimes.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Got a small delivery yesterday...
> View attachment 3111018


Dem floors tho. Love them.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Dem floors tho. Love them.


Thanks! All brand new just installed. Hickory. Not ideal for acoustics though. Need to convince wife to get a very large thick floor rug for this room.


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> I'd be most concerned with humidity than temperature. Most outdoor use is at night, in the summer. Very likely under 95F and over 41F; but humidity is harder to pin down sometimes.


Historical data for humidity is readily available from any number of weather websites. Just Google for the intended zipcode but I'd still get Epson's input.


----------



## RRF

Kieran said:


> Yeah, I've been trying to think of a way of geometrically locating where the lens hole should be. I need to be able to project a line perpendicular to the CENTER of the screen, onto the soffit. I'm pretty good with math, could do this on paper. Just not sure how to construct it _in the room_ so to speak, without relying on the assumptions that the walls are all parallel & perpendicular to each other.
> @BIGmouthinDC maybe you have some suggestions/ideas?


Some sort of laser pointer, mounted on a protractor @ 90°, attached to a straight-edge, placed on the screen wall...? Or maybe one of those spinning lasers used for leveling could be rotated to spin vertically.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

I received both my bulb direct from Epson when it was briefly in stock ($330) and from Compass Micro ($249). Epson recommended Compass Micro when they were out of stock. Compass Micro is reportedly an authorized Epson service center. When I called them up, they assured me their bulb was OEM / Factory original and not a refurb or generic bulb. Can you tell which is which from the packaging (LoL)? The Compass Micro bulb shipped out and arrived much faster and arrived undamaged but the Epson bulb was packaged better in a box within a retail box within an even larger well padded box. I got my air filter from Compass Micro as well as Epson was out of this too. 









The bulb from Epson had a sticker of authenticity both on the bulb housing as well as the box, included paperwork and a screw driver.


















The Compass Micro bulb did not come with a sticker on the box or housing and and there was no paper work or mini screw driver. The screws were the right size though.


















It's worth pointing out that the original bulb I replaced that came with my 5050UB (Purchased direct from Epson as new, not a refurb) also did not have the Epson authenticity sticker.

My original bulb had 4000 hours and had become a bit more dim with the light on, but still looked great in the theater with the lights out.

I put the Compass Micro Bulb in first, there were no issues with the screws. Afterwards the image was plenty bright with both the lights on / off in the theater. I used this for a week before trying out the Epson Bulb the following weekend. If there is a difference, I can't be certain thus far. My wife didn't even notice when I changed the bulb both times. Both are clearly brighter than the aged original to me, but I can't tell if the Epson one is any brighter than the Compass Micro without any equipment to measure. I plan to run each for 4,000 hours. 8,000 PJ hours from now, I'll try Epson first for the warm fuzzies the authenticity sticker provides, but if they aren't in stock I would use Compass Micro again in a pinch provided it lasts the 4000 hours I usually run. Compass Micro still has these bulbs in stock for $250 if anyone is needing a bulb right now.


----------



## fredworld

CinemacDaddy said:


> I received both my bulb direct from Epson when it was briefly in stock ($330) and from Compass Micro ($249). Epson recommended Compass Micro when they were out of stock. Compass Micro is reportedly an authorized Epson service center. When I called them up, they assured me their bulb was OEM / Factory original and not a refurb or generic bulb. Can you tell which is which from the packaging (LoL)? The Compass Micro bulb shipped out and arrived much faster and arrived undamaged but the Epson bulb was packaged better in a box within a retail box within an even larger well padded box. I got my air filter form Compass Micro as well as Epson was out of this too.
> View attachment 3111706
> 
> 
> The bulb from Epson had a sticker of authenticity both on the bulb housing as well as the box, included paperwork and a screw driver.
> View attachment 3111707
> 
> View attachment 3111709
> 
> 
> 
> The Compass Micro bulb did not come with a sticker on the box or housing and and there was no paper work or mini screw driver. The screws were the right size though.
> View attachment 3111710
> 
> View attachment 3111711
> 
> 
> 
> It's worth pointing out that the original bulb I replaced that came with my 5050UB (Purchased direct from Epson as new, not a refurb) also did not have the Epson authenticity sticker.
> 
> My original bulb had 4000 hours and had become a bit more dim with the light on, but still looked great in the theater with the lights out.
> 
> I put the Compass Micro Bulb in first, there were no issues with the screws. Afterwards the image was plenty bright with both the lights on / off in the theater. I used this for a week before trying out the Epson Bulb the following weekend. If there is a difference, I can't be certain thus far. My wife didn't even notice when I changed the bulb both times. Both are clearly brighter than the aged original to me, but I can't tell if the Epson one is any brighter than the Compass Micro without any equipment to measure. I plan to run each for 4,000 hours. 8,000 PJ hours from now, I'll try Epson first for the warm fuzzies the authenticity sticker provides, but if they aren't in stock I would use Compass Micro again in a pinch provided it lasts the 4000 hours I usually run. Compass Micro still has these bulbs in stock for $250 if anyone is needing a bulb right now.


Thanks for posting that information. Since the Epson site shows Out of Stock I ordered 2 *air filters* (I was going to order 1 but the shipping was $5 less for two). FWIW I had considered Micro Compass before getting my new lamp but part of their *return policy* for defective items (30 days) discouraged me from ordering a lamp. Perhaps a phone call to them might be necessary if one of their Epson lamps fail to perform within the usual Epson lamp warranty. Anyway, I'm glad that we have a source for lamps that has the properly spec'd screws.

Addendum: my original Epson lamp that came with the PJ did not have the round Epson sticker either. Presumably, it's a feature of lamps purchased as replacements.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

Yes, Compass Micro return policy sucks. I took a chance on them since Epson customer support referred me to them.

As for differences in packaging, I suspect it to be an OEM vs Retail thing like you see with computer components. Their website says the following:


*"Premier Epson Customer Care Center*
Compass Micro serves as an A+ Certified authorized repair facility for Epson America, Inc. Thanks to a wide range of training, a commitment to their entire product line, and continued excellent service we are ranked as a ‘Premier’ Epson Customer Care Center. We use only new products purchased directly from Epson America to repair your equipment"


I would never buy a bulb from some random Amazon seller though. Way too many horror stories about cheap refurbs out there with off brand bulbs, hence why they had to make the sticker for retail units to restore some confidence.

Compass Micro even has a tech tip about how they get projectors in for service that are having issues due to knock-off bulbs. 








Epson brand lamps vs non-Epson lamps


Is your projector doing something odd after replacing the lamp with a cheaper lamp that claims to be compatible? We've been taking numerous calls and seeing projectors in our shop for service that give misleading errors but have a common thread: a cheap non-Epson lamp. Sometimes it will appear...




compassmicro.com


----------



## Maineiac12

Look what arrived today!





























So far so good! You’d never know this was a refurb looking at it. Everything looks brand new. I got into the service menu and the unit has 42 total hours and only 2 bulb changes. Fingers crossed that I got a good one!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Maineiac12 said:


> Look what arrived today!
> 
> View attachment 3111883
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3111884
> 
> 
> View attachment 3111885
> 
> 
> So far so good! You’d never know this was a refurb looking at it. Everything looks brand new. I got into the service menu and the unit has 42 total hours and only 2 bulb changes. Fingers crossed that I got a good one!


Talk about maximizing throw distance! Love it! Have fun


----------



## fredworld

Maineiac12 said:


> Look what arrived today!
> 
> View attachment 3111883
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3111884
> 
> 
> View attachment 3111885
> 
> 
> So far so good! You’d never know this was a refurb looking at it. Everything looks brand new. I got into the service menu and the unit has 42 total hours and only 2 bulb changes. Fingers crossed that I got a good one!





Maineiac12 said:


> Look what arrived today!
> 
> View attachment 3111883
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3111884
> 
> 
> View attachment 3111885
> 
> 
> So far so good! You’d never know this was a refurb looking at it. Everything looks brand new. I got into the service menu and the unit has 42 total hours and only 2 bulb changes. Fingers crossed that I got a good one!


Congrats and Best of Luck, too.
Curious, do you have enough clearance for access to the USB port for firmware updates?
Did it come with FW vers 1.04 for HDMI 1 and vers 1.03 for HDMI2? Those are the latest FWs, so if not, you should consider updating it..


----------



## reechings

Maineiac12 said:


> Look what arrived today!
> 
> View attachment 3111883
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3111884
> 
> 
> View attachment 3111885
> 
> 
> So far so good! You’d never know this was a refurb looking at it. Everything looks brand new. I got into the service menu and the unit has 42 total hours and only 2 bulb changes. Fingers crossed that I got a good one!


That mount looks cool, wouldn't mind something similar but maybe shorter as I want to get the projector as close to the ceiling as possible. That's sweet that you can put the back of it so close to the wall and still fit HDMI cables.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## RVD26

Maineiac12 said:


> Look what arrived today!
> 
> View attachment 3111883
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3111884
> 
> 
> View attachment 3111885
> 
> 
> So far so good! You’d never know this was a refurb looking at it. Everything looks brand new. I got into the service menu and the unit has 42 total hours and only 2 bulb changes. Fingers crossed that I got a good one!


What ceiling mount are you using?


----------



## Maineiac12

RVD26 said:


> What ceiling mount are you using?


Chief RPA Elite. I got the version with the Epson bracket but they sell universal ones too.






RPMA357 | Legrand AV







www.legrandav.com





I’m using it with a Chief CMS115 ceiling plate and 6” extension pole, but it can be flush mounted as well.


----------



## Maineiac12

reechings said:


> That mount looks cool, wouldn't mind something similar but maybe shorter as I want to get the projector as close to the ceiling as possible. That's sweet that you can put the back of it so close to the wall and still fit HDMI cables.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


I’m using this mount.






RPMA357 | Legrand AV







www.legrandav.com





It can be flush mounted to the ceiling if you’d prefer it shorter. I’m using an extension because I have a lower ceiling between the projector and the screen.


----------



## Maineiac12

fredworld said:


> Congrats and Best of Luck, too.
> Curious, do you have enough clearance for access to the USB port for firmware updates?
> Did it come with FW vers 1.04 for HDMI 1 and vers 1.03 for HDMI2? Those are the latest FWs, so if not, you should consider updating it..


I needed to get it as far back as possible to have enough throw in my narrow space but there’s about 2 inches behind the projector where I could maybe slip a usb in there. Worst case, I can remove the set screw on the mount pole and turn it a little to access the port if I need.

I did check it before mounting and it appears to already be updated.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

reechings said:


> That's sweet that you can put the back of it so close to the wall and still fit HDMI cables.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


At a past house with a different projector, I had to use a 90 degree HDMI adapter and power cord to get with an inch from the wall. The 5050ub has recessed ports though so this makes it even easier to get close to the wall if needed.


----------



## MANTI5

I've had my eye on the 5050 for some time and am finally able to afford a refurb but they've been out of stock for quite a while, how often do they show up?


----------



## fredworld

MANTI5 said:


> I've had my eye on the 5050 for some time and am finally able to afford a refurb but they've been out of stock for quite a while, how often do they show up?


Like now! *5050UB Close Out Link* As of the time of this post anyway. 

Here is the link to check often for the. *Epson Clearance Center*.


----------



## reechings

fredworld said:


> Like now! *5050UB Close Out Link* As of the time of this post anyway.
> 
> Here is the link to check often for the. *Epson Clearance Center*.


Good to see refurbs available but never really saw the point of the wireless hdmi option.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Musty Hustla

Couple of questions:

1) My projector is mounted upside down. For those that are mounted similarly, do you change the bulb while still mounted?

2) Are there any youtube video recommendations on projector maintenance? I've had my unit over a year and have a little less than 200hrs on it.


----------



## fredworld

Musty Hustla said:


> Couple of questions:
> 
> 1) My projector is mounted upside down. For those that are mounted similarly, do you change the bulb while still mounted?
> 
> 2) Are there any youtube video recommendations on projector maintenance? I've had my unit over a year and have a little less than 200hrs on it.


1) yes
2) I'm unaware of any but the manual provides simple advice on maintenance.


----------



## MistaHiggins

fredworld said:


> Like now! *5050UB Close Out Link* As of the time of this post anyway.
> 
> Here is the link to check often for the. *Epson Clearance Center*.


Thank you for posting this! I was only checking the normal UB page that I bookmarked so I would have missed this.


----------



## MANTI5

fredworld said:


> Like now! *5050UB Close Out Link* As of the time of this post anyway.
> 
> Here is the link to check often for the. *Epson Clearance Center*.


Thanks, that's tempting but it's the UBe model and I'd rather go with the UB version so I have a bit left for a budget screen. I'll think it over, much appreciated.


----------



## JCG by the River

fredworld said:


> Like now! *5050UB Close Out Link* As of the time of this post anyway.
> 
> Here is the link to check often for the. *Epson Clearance Center*.


Woo Hoo! Mine! Total impulse buy. I had been planning on sitting it out...waiting for the 5060UBe.. Maybe I should have waited...but a death in the family last month and the wife and I are rethinking some things..like, break out the silverware, use it and live now baby!


----------



## MoreReso

Does anyone have tips for shining on a 150" 16:9 screen white screen (Elite Screens CineWhite) from the minimum throw distance of 14'10"? The room is light controlled (by waiting for night time) and treated (by hanging a crazy concoction of removable black velvet panels from the walls, floor, and ceiling for the 61" in front of the screen).

I'm expecting my 5050UB tonight and will of course be experimenting, but any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## gunlife

MoreReso said:


> Does anyone have tips for shining on a 150" 16:9 screen white screen (Elite Screens CineWhite) from the minimum throw distance of 14'10"? The room is light controlled (by waiting for night time) and treated (by hanging a crazy concoction of removable black velvet panels from the walls, floor, and ceiling for the 61" in front of the screen).
> 
> I'm expecting my 5050UB tonight and will of course be experimenting, but any advice would be appreciated.


Sure... Put in a high quality 4k blueray.. make popcorn, and sit down and enjoy. 

This projector in a light controlled room will fill that 150 no problem.


----------



## CinemacDaddy

Musty Hustla said:


> Couple of questions:
> 
> 1) My projector is mounted upside down. For those that are mounted similarly, do you change the bulb while still mounted?
> 
> 2) Are there any youtube video recommendations on projector maintenance? I've had my unit over a year and have a little less than 200hrs on it.



Yeah you would think the bulb would fall out but it doesn’t. After loosening the screws you still have to grab the handle and pull it out.

I put in a new filter when I change bulbs (yearly). If I ever notice the fan getting louder than normal in between I take out the filter and clean it with a vacuum.

BTW, 200 hours is hardly any for a year. Don’t be afraid to use it. We do ~4000 hours a year on our Epson PJs. We put 100 hours on a new bulb in the last week and a half. I went through 5 bulbs; 20,000+ hours on my 8350 before it gave up the ghost.


----------



## kthejoker20

I just bought the epson 5050 UBE refurb from epson. Upgrading from the Panasonic AE7000. I'm excited. Just hope it's wort the upgrade.


----------



## Musty Hustla

CinemacDaddy said:


> Yeah you would think the bulb would fall out but it doesn’t. After loosening the screws you still have to grab the handle and pull it out.
> 
> I put in a new filter when I change bulbs (yearly). If I ever notice the fan getting louder than normal in between I take out the filter and clean it with a vacuum.
> 
> BTW, 200 hours is hardly any for a year. Don’t be afraid to use it. We do ~4000 hours a year on our Epson PJs. We put 100 hours on a new bulb in the last week and a half. I went through 5 bulbs; 20,000+ hours on my 8350 before it gave up the ghost.


Thank you for the information. I was worried about it falling. 

The epson is our theater room and we watch a movie per week but some weeks we don’t at all. We have a 5.1 setup and OLED in the family room that gets used 7 days a week.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Anyone do an HDR calibration themselves and are happy with it? I'm trying with HCFR and it's a pain.

I'd be curious to see what your custom Gamma looks like if you went that route, and if you didn't...how? What did you do? 
Also, if you used HCFR how did you set up the references to get a nice curve that works with the 5050?


----------



## nusilver

kthejoker20 said:


> I just bought the epson 5050 UBE refurb from epson. Upgrading from the Panasonic AE7000. I'm excited. Just hope it's wort the upgrade.


I hemmed and hawed over it all day--we just bought a house that came with a Tuff Shed, which I'm slowly converting to a home theater, and I've been eyeing the 5050UB to upgrade to from my ViewSonic PX727-4K--but of course by the time I told my wife I was going to buy it, it was sold out. No big whoop... I just have to continue watching that clearance page like a hawk until the regular 5050UB comes back in stock. I'll be setting the AV gear on a rack at the back of the shed, anyway, so the wireless wouldn't have done anything for us.


----------



## SteveS78

I have the 5050UB projector. I absolutely love it overall. Had it for a few months and it has generally been easy to operate.

However, this evening I come down to the basement to watch some TV on it and I can't get it to display any signal coming through the HDMI. Keep in mond since December when I had it installed, it has been running fine.

Tonight, no matter which input I try to sent to it through the Denon reciever (whether the XBox or the Nvidia Shield), I can't get signal from either. I checked all HDMI inputs on all ends (from the devices, the back of the Denon and the 5050). I even unplugged everything and put them back in tightly. I rebooted both the XBox and the Shield. Tried unplugging the Denon and turning that back on. No luck with anything. As I change inputs on the AVR remote, the projector screen continues to jist display the Denon logo (white logo on an otherwise blackscreen...I think it is the Denon boot up screen typically?)

I know the projector is getting the Denon signal, because I am looking at the Denon logo on the screen right now. That tells me the Denon signal is getting through to the projector. I guess that could still technically mean the Denon is still at fault for not sending the actual inputs to the pj? But my gut is telling me that the projector is the issue here?

Any ideas what could be going on here?

I tried calling Epson support, but they are closed tonight. Will have to try in the morning.

Please help! 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

SteveS78 said:


> I have the 5050UB projector. I absolutely love it overall. Had it for a few months and it has generally been easy to operate.
> 
> However, this evening I come down to the basement to watch some TV on it and I can't get it to display any signal coming through the HDMI. Keep in mond since December when I had it installed, it has been running fine.
> 
> Tonight, no matter which input I try to sent to it through the Denon reciever (whether the XBox or the Nvidia Shield), I can't get signal from either. I checked all HDMI inputs on all ends (from the devices, the back of the Denon and the 5050). I even unplugged everything and put them back in tightly. I rebooted both the XBox and the Shield. Tried unplugging the Denon and turning that back on. No luck with anything. As I change inputs on the AVR remote, the projector screen continues to jist display the Denon logo (white logo on an otherwise blackscreen...I think it is the Denon boot up screen typically?)
> 
> I know the projector is getting the Denon signal, because I am looking at the Denon logo on the screen right now. That tells me the Denon signal is getting through to the projector. I guess that could still technically mean the Denon is still at fault for not sending the actual inputs to the pj? But my gut is telling me that the projector is the issue here?
> 
> Any ideas what could be going on here?
> 
> I tried calling Epson support, but they are closed tonight. Will have to try in the morning.
> 
> Please help!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


This is a Denon issue if you are seeing Denon on the projector. I'd shoot over to the applicable Denon owners thread. I'm curious which receiver you have but I am as certain as I can be that your issue is the receiver, not the 5050.


----------



## Kieran

Is USB the only way to update firmware on the 5050ub, or can it be done via internet/ethernet if I have a cat6e going to the pj from my router?


----------



## rekbones

SteveS78 said:


> I have the 5050UB projector. I absolutely love it overall. Had it for a few months and it has generally been easy to operate.
> 
> However, this evening I come down to the basement to watch some TV on it and I can't get it to display any signal coming through the HDMI. Keep in mond since December when I had it installed, it has been running fine.
> 
> Tonight, no matter which input I try to sent to it through the Denon reciever (whether the XBox or the Nvidia Shield), I can't get signal from either. I checked all HDMI inputs on all ends (from the devices, the back of the Denon and the 5050). I even unplugged everything and put them back in tightly. I rebooted both the XBox and the Shield. Tried unplugging the Denon and turning that back on. No luck with anything. As I change inputs on the AVR remote, the projector screen continues to jist display the Denon logo (white logo on an otherwise blackscreen...I think it is the Denon boot up screen typically?)
> 
> I know the projector is getting the Denon signal, because I am looking at the Denon logo on the screen right now. That tells me the Denon signal is getting through to the projector. I guess that could still technically mean the Denon is still at fault for not sending the actual inputs to the pj? But my gut is telling me that the projector is the issue here?
> 
> Any ideas what could be going on here?
> 
> I tried calling Epson support, but they are closed tonight. Will have to try in the morning.
> 
> Please help!
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Looks like a Denon issue to me also, plug the shield directly into the projector to test. Denon logo tells me the Denon is outputting and projector is receiving but Denon inputs aren't working. Did you have any electrical storms in the area as the HDMI ports are highly sensitive to ESD (electrostatic discharge). Denon's display the logo when not receiving an input.


----------



## ehiggins

PixelPusher15 said:


> Anyone do an HDR calibration themselves and are happy with it? I'm trying with HCFR and it's a pain.
> 
> I'd be curious to see what your custom Gamma looks like if you went that route, and if you didn't...how? What did you do?
> Also, if you used HCFR how did you set up the references to get a nice curve that works with the 5050?


I calibrated with HCFR for my SDR then just use the HDR slider, 4-9 depending on the movie. I originally thought 9 was too dark, but with the munsil and spears 4K disc, you need it around 9 to not blow out the snow scenes. I think it doesn’t blow out on the lower hdr eg 500. I don’t know if you can calibrate for HDR like on a TV since it all uses the same input.

I was extremely frustrated with my HCFR and 5050 initially. Then I found out you can chrome cast the test patterns, I enabled real time readings, and it’ll update on your laptop every five seconds or so. Used custom gamma curve, didn’t move the first or last, but as you have different patterns up, the screen will flash if that slider will effect the gamma for that pattern. Orange, purplish blue, green, and cyan are the only values that ended up over 2.0. I never would have gotten the hue saturation and brightness of colors without the real time readings.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Woohoo.. Finally got my 2 original Epson lamps.. All is well in the Danish camp :-D


----------



## fredworld

FWIW to those concerned, my MicroCompass order for air filters arrived today. Two day fedex delivery.


----------



## MEGAGatchaman

I've only been checking a couple days.. Keep finding the 5050 UBe in stock on clearance, but not UB.. Gamble on a UB popping up or waste the extra on a UBe I won't use the e-hdmi on?


----------



## nusilver

MEGAGatchaman said:


> I've only been checking a couple days.. Keep finding the 5050 UBe in stock on clearance, but not UB.. Gamble on a UB popping up or waste the extra on a UBe I won't use the e-hdmi on?


I haven't been checking _every day_, especially because we moved recently and have been busy with that, but I haven't seen the UB in stock in a month. Meanwhile, the UBe that is supposedly back in stock won't let me add it to my cart.


----------



## kthejoker20

Question: Can I use an ALR screen for the 5050? I want to buy a screen and future proof as my next PJ is going to be UST.


----------



## MistaHiggins

nusilver said:


> I haven't been checking _every day_, especially because we moved recently and have been busy with that, but I haven't seen the UB in stock in a month. Meanwhile, the UBe that is supposedly back in stock won't let me add it to my cart.


Try doing the PayPal checkout. I had the same issue but checked out successfully with PayPal for the UBe


----------



## PixelPusher15

kthejoker20 said:


> Question: Can I use an ALR screen for the 5050? I want to buy a screen and future proof as my next PJ is going to be UST.


Yes *but* a ALR screen for a UST is a different beast. The best UST screens block a lot of lights from multiple angles, including the angle that you will be projecting the 5050 from now.


----------



## nusilver

MistaHiggins said:


> Try doing the PayPal checkout. I had the same issue but checked out successfully with PayPal for the UBe


Thanks! Next time it shows up as in stock, I'll give that a shot (now it's _really_ not there, heh.)


----------



## MEGAGatchaman

@nusilver I tried paypal checkout at the time you were having issues and it still removed it from my cart. So you're not alone. Maybe tomorrow.. good luck!


----------



## nusilver

MEGAGatchaman said:


> @nusilver I tried paypal checkout at the time you were having issues and it still removed it from my cart. So you're not alone. Maybe tomorrow.. good luck!


and to you


----------



## PixelPusher15

Anyone able to get their 5050/6050 to turn off when the receiver turns off? I feel like I have it set up on the Denon 3700 and 5050 to work that way but it's not working


----------



## Cacitems4sale

fredworld said:


> Changing Lamp Mode alone has no effect, nor does Iris or Lens modes. The lamp has 875 hours.
> 
> 
> Got the following suggestions Epson, which I should be able to try over this weekend:
> 
> _"To help you resolve the issue, please do the following: _
> 
> _Turn off the projector._
> _Disconnect the projector from its source._
> _Turn the projector on and try projecting without any source connected._
> _To effectively help resolve your issue, we need to verify the following information:_
> 
> 
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images without any source connected?_
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images from a different source?_
> _Does the same issue occur when using a different interface cable?"_


I have noticed the same issue with my 6050 beginning to occur. Was watching prime and had the flickering occur quickly about 5 times in a row over the span of 3 seconds. It occurs every 5 minutes. Only have 140 hrs on the bulb and currently using ECO mode with high Iris. I haven’t tried any troubleshooting (other than switching to high, medium, and eco) yet but quite frustrated with this. Please advise


----------



## st2006

MoreReso said:


> Does anyone have tips for shining on a 150" 16:9 screen white screen (Elite Screens CineWhite) from the minimum throw distance of 14'10"? The room is light controlled (by waiting for night time) and treated (by hanging a crazy concoction of removable black velvet panels from the walls, floor, and ceiling for the 61" in front of the screen).
> 
> I'm expecting my 5050UB tonight and will of course be experimenting, but any advice would be appreciated.


Can I ask how you attached the velvet panels to the ceiling. I have drop ceiling and looking for something like this instead of replacing with dark colored tiles.


----------



## PixelPusher15

st2006 said:


> Can I ask how you attached the velvet panels to the ceiling. I have drop ceiling and looking for something like this instead of replacing with dark colored tiles.


Have you found this thread yet? The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image

Search that bad boy for a lot of ideas. There's a guy using velvet flock as wallpaper and likes it. I'm considering doing the same and found some here in the states (he's over the pond). AVFF-04 Adhesive Backed Fabric w/ PSA 60 inch Roll Width, Per Yard


----------



## MoreReso

st2006 said:


> Can I ask how you attached the velvet panels to the ceiling. I have drop ceiling and looking for something like this instead of replacing with dark colored tiles.


My "theater"'s in our living room so I need the black velvet to be totally removable. I've got a series of velcro strips, no joke! Probably not the right solution for a dedicated theater. @PixelPusher15 definitely pointed you in the right direction, that's a great thread.


----------



## fredworld

Cacitems4sale said:


> I have noticed the same issue with my 6050 beginning to occur. Was watching prime and had the flickering occur quickly about 5 times in a row over the span of 3 seconds. It occurs every 5 minutes. Only have 140 hrs on the bulb and currently using ECO mode with high Iris. I haven’t tried any troubleshooting (other than switching to high, medium, and eco) yet but quite frustrated with this. Please advise


After I reported the problem to Epson and proceeding through their trouble shooting advice, they replaced the lamp. Had no issues with the second lamp but I now run on MEDIUM lamp mode. There are more posts on this issue in this thread. Apparently, the flickering is a known issue.

Addendum: do a Search Community for "flicker" and select "in this discussion". Many posts will come up, some from me and many from others.


----------



## reechings

PixelPusher15 said:


> Have you found this thread yet? The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image
> 
> Search that bad boy for a lot of ideas. There's a guy using velvet flock as wallpaper and likes it. I'm considering doing the same and found some here in the states (he's over the pond). AVFF-04 Adhesive Backed Fabric w/ PSA 60 inch Roll Width, Per Yard


Be careful that thread is literally and figuratively a black hole and will make you question everything about your theater setup 

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

kthejoker20 said:


> Question: Can I use an ALR screen for the 5050? I want to buy a screen and future proof as my next PJ is going to be UST.


You can definitely use an ALR screen with the 5050. The question is whether you can use it with a UST, which is generally not the case. UST projectors are throwing light on the screen at a steep angle, which is often what ALR screens reject. So you can have pretty terrible / washed out image with a UST on some ALR screens. Not all ALRs work that way though, so worth researching which screen you buy.

EDIT: I would bet that there are very few if any screens that look great with both a UST and a standard long-throw projector, except maybe classic white high gain screens. I'm not a screen expert, but to me optimizing a screen design for a UST is a totally different task than optimizing one for standard long-throw use.


----------



## nusilver

While I wait patiently for refurbs to come back in stock: I'm seeing a lot of the bigger retailers being either out of stock on the 5050ub, or limited stock (Epson themselves have no new stock.) I know this projector is a couple of years old now, but is this a sign of a pending discontinuation, or is it kind of always like this? I only just got my first projector a year ago so haven't been following the sales trends.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

fredworld said:


> After I reported the problem to Epson and proceeding through their trouble shooting advice, they replaced the lamp. Had no issues with the second lamp but I now run on MEDIUM lamp mode. There are more posts on this issue in this thread. Apparently, the flickering is a known issue.
> 
> Addendum: do a Search Community for "flicker" and select "in this discussion". Many posts will come up, some from me and many from others.


Interesting. I put my mode back to medium today and tested out Netflix/Amazon and had no issues of screen flicker. My frustration is that ECO is a waste if that is the cause. Regardless, I might have to give them a call. Thanks


----------



## Maineiac12

nusilver said:


> While I wait patiently for refurbs to come back in stock: I'm seeing a lot of the bigger retailers being either out of stock on the 5050ub, or limited stock (Epson themselves have no new stock.) I know this projector is a couple of years old now, but is this a sign of a pending discontinuation, or is it kind of always like this? I only just got my first projector a year ago so haven't been following the sales trends.


Things have been like this since COVID. Production and shipping delays combined with higher than normal demand are making projectors hard to come by. I think Epson has been on a 3-4 year product refresh cycle but no new model has been announced yet and COVID may have messed up the timelines.


----------



## nusilver

Maineiac12 said:


> Things have been like this since COVID. Production and shipping delays combined with higher than normal demand are making projectors hard to come by. I think Epson has been on a 3-4 year product refresh cycle but no new model has been announced yet and COVID may have messed up the timelines.


Yeah, when I got my first projector last year (a direct result of COVID; movie theaters were off limits), it took two months for the screen we ordered to ship to us--Elite was making them as fast as they could, and it obviously wasn't fast enough for demand. I ended up making a 91" screen out of a light gray nylon sheet and some black velvet tape and hanging that on the inside of our garage door, and that was plenty exciting in our pitch black garage until the 135" screen arrived. Now that we actually own the place we live in, I'm ready for something a little more impressive than my ViewSonic. Come on, Epson!


----------



## x7007

Maineiac12 said:


> I needed to get it as far back as possible to have enough throw in my narrow space but there’s about 2 inches behind the projector where I could maybe slip a usb in there. Worst case, I can remove the set screw on the mount pole and turn it a little to access the port if I need.
> 
> I did check it before mounting and it appears to already be updated.
> 
> View attachment 3112001


can you test it for me if you can run an HDR movie and enable 3D mode? can you tell me if you can get SBS or [email protected] 60hz?


----------



## nusilver

EDIT: gone again.

For anyone up late like me (writing marketing copy for streaming Hallmark movies... these projectors don't pay for themselves!), the 5050UBe refurb seems to be back in stock again. Not showing up on the main clearance page, but I refreshed the product page sometime between Winter Castle and Timeless Love and was able to place an order.






V11H931020-N | Home Cinema 5050UBe Wireless 4K PRO-UHD Projector with Advanced 3-Chip Design and HDR10 - Refurbished | Product Exclusion | Epson US


The Epson® Home Cinema 5050UBe 4K PRO-UHD1 projector delivers an amazing 4K home theater experience for the DIY enthusiast. Capable of displaying an astonishing 2,600 lumens for both color and white brightness2 – along with proprietary processors for resolution enhancement, color and image...




epson.com


----------



## OJ Bartley

acrackl said:


> Hi, I couldn’t quickly locate the specifications for “clearance” around the projector. I’m trying to relocate it to a top shelf mount (not inverted). The sides will have ample clearance, top will have about 10 inches. The bottom - it will be resting on the rubber feet. I did a test and it projects very well.
> 
> My concern is the rear - depth wise the projector is about 17 inches and in the rear I will have about 3 inches. Not an issue for the cables, but I’m concerned about heat. Is there a spec for the clearance in the rear? Thanks





biglen said:


> I have my 5050 in a box, that's recessed into my back wall. The projector is all the way pushed back, against the back of the box. I've never had a heat issue. The vents are in the front of the projector anyway, so that's where all the heat is.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Hi all, I just wanted some confirmation on mounting. My 5050 should be here on Monday, so I'm working on the mounting location over the weekend. It will be shelf mounted at the rear of the room in a cutout in the soffit.









I have 31" of width, but I did plan to put a baffle in front of the air return (left side of the image) to help reduce sound transmission. The depth is only 14", so I know the shelf will need to come out to about 20" or so. My main question is height. I have 9" as-is, and I'm just wondering how far down I will need to bring it to be safe for any air circulation. I know the fan intake and exhaust are both at the front which is great. And the air return should help some (when it kicks on) but I don't want heat to build up.

I'm considering adding something like one of these fans from AC Infinity to the bottom of the shelf at the back, to push fresh air up and out the front of the enclosure. Now my next question is: How does the USB power work on the 5050UBe? is it powered full time, or only when the unit is on? If the USB powers up with the projector, I'll just go with the simple fan, and not need the controller.










I have one of the 120mm component cooling fans that sit on top of a receiver and on low it's basically inaudible from 2' away.


----------



## OJ Bartley

nusilver said:


> EDIT: gone again.
> 
> For anyone up late like me (writing marketing copy for streaming Hallmark movies... these projectors don't pay for themselves!), the 5050UBe refurb seems to be back in stock again. Not showing up on the main clearance page, but I refreshed the product page sometime between Winter Castle and Timeless Love and was able to place an order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> V11H931020-N | Home Cinema 5050UBe Wireless 4K PRO-UHD Projector with Advanced 3-Chip Design and HDR10 - Refurbished | Product Exclusion | Epson US
> 
> 
> The Epson® Home Cinema 5050UBe 4K PRO-UHD1 projector delivers an amazing 4K home theater experience for the DIY enthusiast. Capable of displaying an astonishing 2,600 lumens for both color and white brightness2 – along with proprietary processors for resolution enhancement, color and image...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> epson.com


sorry nusilver, I might have gotten the last one! I've been hunting one for months. I had 3 or 4 orders actually go through and then cancel on me, but this one finally has a shipping date. That's from the Canadian site though, so I don't know if they share inventory.


----------



## nusilver

OJ Bartley said:


> sorry nusilver, I might have gotten the last one! I've been hunting one for months. I had 3 or 4 orders actually go through and then cancel on me, but this one finally has a shipping date. That's from the Canadian site though, so I don't know if they share inventory.


I was definitely able to place my order (was refreshing the page every time I completed some copy, so, fairly frequently.) Fingers crossed!


----------



## MEGAGatchaman

Congrats @nusilver ! I'll try to use your hint of using the product page to score mine. I'd been watching main clearance page yesterday and today.


----------



## Wxyzbrendan

Is anyone that’s using an HDfury with their 5050 finding that they don’t have to adjust the hdr slider as often? 
I’m in the wiring stage of building my basement theater and my plan was to buy a 5050 as my projector; however, the thought of having to mess around with the hdr slider on almost every title is deterring me. If an HDfury product helps to mitigate the issue I’d be more inclined to purchase. 
If not I guess I’ll have to wait until epson comes out with next years model? 

Thanks.


----------



## Zedekias

Wxyzbrendan said:


> Is anyone that’s using an HDfury with their 5050 finding that they don’t have to adjust the hdr slider as often?
> I’m in the wiring stage of building my basement theater and my plan was to buy a 5050 as my projector; however, the thought of having to mess around with the hdr slider on almost every title is deterring me. If an HDfury product helps to mitigate the issue I’d be more inclined to purchase.
> If not I guess I’ll have to wait until epson comes out with next years model?
> 
> Thanks.


I don't dive as deep as some others here. But I usually leave my slider around 3-4 90% of the time. Occasionally I'll set it to 5 or 6. It's incredibly easy and not a big deal at all. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Wxyzbrendan

Zedekias said:


> I don't dive as deep as some others here. But I usually leave my slider around 3-4 90% of the time. Occasionally I'll set it to 5 or 6. It's incredibly easy and not a big deal at all.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


That’s good to hear. I see a lot of people on here talking like it’s a constant thing and sometimes changing multiple times during a movie.


----------



## Zedekias

Wxyzbrendan said:


> That’s good to hear. I see a lot of people on here talking like it’s a constant thing and sometimes changing multiple times during a movie.


That's definitely not necessary. I think I've changed it in the middle of a movie a couple of times. The menu stays at the bottom of the screen when you do change it, so you can still watch while you adjust it. And there's a specific HDR button on the remote. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## JPBoggis

If you use the HDFury Dolby Vision LLDV 'hack' and your playback device(s) support converting HDR/SDR to HDR such as Apple TV 4K, Amazon Fire Cube/Stick 4K, some UHD Bluray players, etc. then you won't need to keep adjusting the HDR slider. You will also be able to enjoy watching Dolby Vision content on your HDR projector.

Dolby Vision content also tends to be more consistent than HDR10 due to Dolby being involved.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Wxyzbrendan said:


> Is anyone that’s using an HDfury with their 5050 finding that they don’t have to adjust the hdr slider as often?
> I’m in the wiring stage of building my basement theater and my plan was to buy a 5050 as my projector; however, the thought of having to mess around with the hdr slider on almost every title is deterring me. If an HDfury product helps to mitigate the issue I’d be more inclined to purchase.
> If not I guess I’ll have to wait until epson comes out with next years model?
> 
> Thanks.


I have tried it and I’m about to send the Vertex 2 back. I am just not seeing the benefit that a device like this is claimed to provide. It’s been a frustrating experience for me. I might give it one more try today if I have time.

If anyone else here has had success with the 5050 and the Vertex 2, please please please forward me your settings.


----------



## JPBoggis

My settings for Epson TW9400 (6050UB) can be found on the following page: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...

NOTE: This 'hack' is dependant on playback devices that are able to output a Dolby Vision LLDV signal and optionally convert SDR/HDR to LLDV if you want to do this (not all DV capable playback devices are able to do this conversion.) Lots of native Dolby Vision content can be found on Netflix, iTunes, Apple TV+ and Disney+


----------



## Wxyzbrendan

JPBoggis said:


> If you use the HDFury Dolby Vision LLDV 'hack' and your playback device(s) support converting HDR/SDR to HDR such as Apple TV 4K, Amazon Fire Cube/Stick 4K, some UHD Bluray players, etc. then you won't need to keep adjusting the HDR slider. You will also be able to enjoy watching Dolby Vision content on your HDR projector.
> 
> Dolby Vision content also tends to be more consistent than HDR10 due to Dolby being involved.


So you’re not fiddling with the hdr slider when using the HDfury? Set and forget? 
I’ve been trying to follow that thread, there’s so much information that it’s hard to keep up.


----------



## JPBoggis

Yes for me it's been set and forget and I have been using the Dolby Vision LLDV 'hack' for over 1 year now - works great with Apple TV 4K, Fire Cube 4K and Sony X800m2.

HDR slider always stays set on 5 which works best for my setup.

Only time I've needed to make any adjustments is when watching HLG UHD content on BBC iPlayer which does not benefit from the DV hack (HLG can't be converted to DV)


----------



## Wxyzbrendan

JPBoggis said:


> Yes for me it's been set and forget and I have been using the Dolby Vision LLDV 'hack' for over 1 year now - works great with Apple TV 4K, Fire Cube 4K and Sony X800m2.
> 
> HDR slider always stays set on 5 which works best for my setup.
> 
> Only time I've needed to make any adjustments is when watching HLG UHD content on BBC iPlayer which does not benefit from the DV hack (HLG can't be converted to DV)


Good to know, thank you.


----------



## kthejoker20

Just got my 5050 today. Having a problem. I'm using PC nvidia to the projector. SDR looks WAY better then HDR. I have the pc nvidia set to 4:2:2. Is there something I'm doing wrong?


----------



## nusilver

PixelPusher15 said:


> I have tried it and I’m about to send the Vertex 2 back. I am just not seeing the benefit that a device like this is claimed to provide. It’s been a frustrating experience for me. I might give it one more try today if I have time.
> 
> If anyone else here has had success with the 5050 and the Vertex 2, please please please forward me your settings.


Any luck with this? Since my OPPO 203 can force DV, I'm considering an HD Fury something (Vertex 2? Diva?) for DTM and would love to hear more from folks who are using the OPPO with the 5050UB. I'd rather get a $400 "helper" box than spend $1,000 on a Panny UB9000 if the OPPO I already have can look better than the UB9000 with help.


----------



## rekbones

kthejoker20 said:


> Just got my 5050 today. Having a problem. I'm using PC nvidia to the projector. SDR looks WAY better then HDR. I have the pc nvidia set to 4:2:2. Is there something I'm doing wrong?


What Nvidia card do you have? What media player are you using? Is HDR enabled in win10? PC's are not plug and play by any means so there are a lot of things that can be set wrong in the media player, the Win10 software, the hardware capabilities or even the source file or streaming service. HDR in general can look like crap as projectors just can't do it properly.


----------



## Nickdom

Hey everyone... newbie here so apologize if this issue has been brought up before. I’ve done some searching and can’t seem to find an answer. I just bought the 5050 and have my PS5 and Apple TV both routed through my Denon receiver. The PS5 is providing an HDR signal, but I cannot for the life of me get the Apple TV to do the same. The best I can get is 4K SDR. I’ve tried everything, including bypassing the receiver and connecting the Apple TV directly to the projector (thinking it was a Denon issue) but no luck. I get a black screen when switching the setting to HDR. Anyone run into this issue? I’m completely stumped.


----------



## PixelPusher15

nusilver said:


> Any luck with this? Since my OPPO 203 can force DV, I'm considering an HD Fury something (Vertex 2? Diva?) for DTM and would love to hear more from folks who are using the OPPO with the 5050UB. I'd rather get a $400 "helper" box than spend $1,000 on a Panny UB9000 if the OPPO I already have can look better than the UB9000 with help.


Nope. No luck. I've tried getting help in the dedicated thread for the LLDV HDFury "hack" and none of the tips/pointers helped. I'm really starting to think my Vertex 2 isn't working properly. I've pinged HDFury support for some help but it looks like I'm sending this thing back to Amazon. I may give it another go in the future because I really wanted what it offered.


----------



## nusilver

PixelPusher15 said:


> Nope. No luck. I've tried getting help in the dedicated thread for the LLDV HDFury "hack" and none of the tips/pointers helped. I'm really starting to think my Vertex 2 isn't working properly. I've pinged HDFury support for some help but it looks like I'm sending this thing back to Amazon. I may give it another go in the future because I really wanted what it offered.


Bummer. Hope it all works out for you!


----------



## arnemetis

kthejoker20 said:


> Just got my 5050 today. Having a problem. I'm using PC nvidia to the projector. SDR looks WAY better then HDR. I have the pc nvidia set to 4:2:2. Is there something I'm doing wrong?


I gave up getting hdr to work with my PC when I tested it, I highly suggest you get a capable client device and test with that first. Personally I use an nvidia shield, but there are many options. More than likely you were displaying hdr content through an sdr output, resulting in washed out colors. This could be due to a myriad of settings, improper support in the software you were using to display it, to file oddities.


----------



## rekbones

Nickdom said:


> Hey everyone... newbie here so apologize if this issue has been brought up before. I’ve done some searching and can’t seem to find an answer. I just bought the 5050 and have my PS5 and Apple TV both routed through my Denon receiver. The PS5 is providing an HDR signal, but I cannot for the life of me get the Apple TV to do the same. The best I can get is 4K SDR. I’ve tried everything, including bypassing the receiver and connecting the Apple TV directly to the projector (thinking it was a Denon issue) but no luck. I get a black screen when switching the setting to HDR. Anyone run into this issue? I’m completely stumped.


HDMI cables are always the first suspect. Are you using a long HDMI cable somewhere is the HDMI chain? Connect you ATV directly to the projector with a "Short" HDMI cable and see if it works. Of course make sure enhanced HDMI is enabled.


----------



## nusilver

Would someone who's ordered from the Epson Store mind DMing me the number they call from when validating your order? Calls from unknown numbers don't always get through to me, despite my phone settings saying otherwise, and while they told me they expect to ship the projector today once validation is complete, I... I obviously don't want to miss the call if I can help it. Thanks in advance.


----------



## PixelPusher15

nusilver said:


> Would someone who's ordered from the Epson Store mind DMing me the number they call from when validating your order? Calls from unknown numbers don't always get through to me, despite my phone settings saying otherwise, and while they told me they expect to ship the projector today once validation is complete, I... I obviously don't want to miss the call if I can help it. Thanks in advance.


FWIW, they called me and left a VM asking for validation.....then shipped it anyway the next morning lol


----------



## nusilver

PixelPusher15 said:


> FWIW, they called me and left a VM asking for validation.....then shipped it anyway the next morning lol


Fair enough! Their general customer service told me they wouldn't try just once, but other folks here have posted about the opposite happening, missing the call, and their order being canceled. I got my screen and speakers set up in the shell of my home theater build last night (still have to install insulation and drywall, etc., a few months down the road), so I guess I'm a little anxious for this thing to go through.


----------



## pias

Posted this in the 5040/6040 thread but the 5050/6050s also are under consideration.

A couple of questions, I know this has been asked in the past but I'm assuming that the refurbished pjs are a fluid situation, having said that, how is the current refurb lotto working out, as in receiving a good unit the first time out ?

Question two, I would be sitting almost right underneath the projector and projecting to a 92" screen roughly 13.5 ft. away, I'm guessing that I could use eco mode ( correct me if I'm wrong ), would the fan noise be an issue?


----------



## rekbones

pias said:


> Posted this in the 5040/6040 thread but the 5050/6050s also are under consideration.
> 
> A couple of questions, I know this has been asked in the past but I'm assuming that the refurbished pjs are a fluid situation, having said that, how is the current refurb lotto working out, as in receiving a good unit the first time out ?
> 
> Question two, I would be sitting almost right underneath the projector and projecting to a 92" screen roughly 13.5 ft. away, I'm guessing that I could use eco mode ( correct me if I'm wrong ), would the fan noise be an issue?


Assuming your not fighting ambient light you will have no issue in eco mode and it's very quiet. At 92" it still maybe too bright so just clap down the fixed iris at least until the lamp ages. At least two people that regularly post got bum units the first time but mine was flawless. If you fighting ambient light or have a low gain screen I have no clue what your going to need for output.


----------



## arnemetis

pias said:


> Posted this in the 5040/6040 thread but the 5050/6050s also are under consideration.
> 
> A couple of questions, I know this has been asked in the past but I'm assuming that the refurbished pjs are a fluid situation, having said that, how is the current refurb lotto working out, as in receiving a good unit the first time out ?
> 
> Question two, I would be sitting almost right underneath the projector and projecting to a 92" screen roughly 13.5 ft. away, I'm guessing that I could use eco mode ( correct me if I'm wrong ), would the fan noise be an issue?


I can only address question two as I got my 5050 new. I also sit directly under my projector, 12' between the back wall and my 100" screen, so the pj is nearly touching the back wall. I run mine in standard mode and it's not noticeable, high power mode is too loud for me. I've never bothered with eco, while it is a tad quieter I don't like losing the light output, especially for hdr stuff in digital cinema mode. Even with long quiet scenes I don't notice the fan on standard.


----------



## EyeVandy

I'm about to pull the trigger on a 6050UB. I'm not asking about specific prices or anything, just wondering if there are ways to get it below retail? Epson's website lists some local dealers near me but what do you do, call and just ask for a lower price? Wondering how the rest of you actually bought yours. PMs welcome if we're toeing the line on the forum rules.


----------



## nusilver

Well, my 5050UBe was canceled without anyone calling me, ha, but it was actually because a letter was missing from my first name (something which I was told early this morning could be fixed, but which obviously wasn't.) Thankfully, though, I noticed it was canceled within about 15 minutes and called while the unit was still in stock, so I got them to re-place the order over the phone and they upgraded me to two-day shipping from ground for free. Hoping it just ships now, but, I guess we'll see.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

I gotta say.. After 6 months with the 6050UB/TW9400 this projector is the best i have ever had.. It is so well designed,it has an awesome image,it has motorized optics and is very easy to install,and the lamps are cheap..
Just the fact, i can both clean the filter and change the lamp without having to pull it down and disassemble the mount, is a godsend for this ageing theater enthusiast.. My old Sony sucked in that department,well every department compared to the Epson,the Sony was such a bad design compared to the Epson.. And to think i was skeptic about buying a projector from a "printer" company,as that is all i knew of them before this purchase. 
That said,they made a really good printer.

Anyways, with a new lamp in, 1 in stock and the old one with 1800 hrs on it as backup, i am so happy with this, i was actually contemplating buying another one,just to shelf so i had one when this one no longer works, but i doubt it is a good idea shelving electronics like this for 6+ years.
Im the kind of guy when i find a perfect item,i buy bulk, pants,shirts,shoes, everything. If the item meet my criteria,i stock up,as you never know when they will change or go out of circulation, other side of this coin is, my clothes are no longer in fashion and havent been since the 90s,but who cares as i spend all my time watching my favourite stuff on my Epson projector :-D..


----------



## nusilver

Got my call from Epson this morning. Order approved


----------



## PixelPusher15

Been meaning to ask this since I got the 5050 but is the auto iris (I'm assuming this is what it is) supposed to sound like an old hard disk all the time? It makes a lot of subtle muffled clicking noises and it isn't just when the scene changes from bright/dark or dark/bright, although that is when it makes them the most. I've got the 5050 on a custom shelf/box right above me. I had a 4010 before this and it sounded the same, but now I'm wondering if both of them are/were dysfunctional.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

PixelPusher15 said:


> Been meaning to ask this since I got the 5050 but is the auto iris (I'm assuming this is what it is) supposed to sound like an old hard disk all the time? It makes a lot of subtle muffled clicking noises and it isn't just when the scene changes from bright/dark or dark/bright, although that is when it makes them the most. I've got the 5050 on a custom shelf/box right above me. I had a 4010 before this and it sounded the same, but now I'm wondering if both of them are/were dysfunctional.


my 6050 also makes iris noises.. its only annoying in quiet scene transitions from light to dark or vice versa. I have turned it off though on anything but uhd


----------



## OJ Bartley

I received my 5050 yesterday, and had it up and running for testing sitting on a desk, projecting onto a wall. It has a scuff or two on it, but functionally it seems totally fine. Is there anything specific we should look for? In response to the fan noise, I think I'm running in Eco mods, and it was noticeable to me, but not when I was actually engrossed in the content. I think it's just a matter of being a new thing for me, coming from only TV viewing.


----------



## PixelPusher15

OJ Bartley said:


> I received my 5050 yesterday, and had it up and running for testing sitting on a desk, projecting onto a wall. It has a scuff or two on it, but functionally it seems totally fine. Is there anything specific we should look for? In response to the fan noise, I think I'm running in Eco mods, and it was noticeable to me, but not when I was actually engrossed in the content. I think it's just a matter of being a new thing for me, coming from only TV viewing.


I wrote this for a slickdeals post of the 5050UBe. Others might have some to add but this is what I looked for.

Check the housing/buttons for any major defects (it should look like new)
Check the lens for any physical defect
Make sure the auto lens cover fully opens and closes when turning on and off the projector
Display the built in alignment pattern and shoot the projector on anything large and light colored then:
Check alignment/sharpness up close, a lot of color convergence issues can be fixed with the built in controls
Check the full range of the motorized lens, focus and zoom

Look at solid white and solid black images for any major issues, particularly dust blobs on an all black screen
Look at text on a black background and make sure there aren't halos or smears around the text. It's not like an LCD TV, there shouldn't be blooming
And lastly, what happened to me, check various content to make sure you don't get any strange color banding/blooming. I got it with blues.


----------



## DaGamePimp

It's good practice to run any new lamp based projector on HIGH lamp for the first ~100 hours to set the lamp arc (this should reduce the chances of flicker down the road... YMMV).

The auto iris on my 5050UB is nearly silent (even with no audio) and it sits directly above the main viewing position(s).

- Jason


----------



## Maineiac12

PixelPusher15 said:


> Been meaning to ask this since I got the 5050 but is the auto iris (I'm assuming this is what it is) supposed to sound like an old hard disk all the time? It makes a lot of subtle muffled clicking noises and it isn't just when the scene changes from bright/dark or dark/bright, although that is when it makes them the most. I've got the 5050 on a custom shelf/box right above me. I had a 4010 before this and it sounded the same, but now I'm wondering if both of them are/were dysfunctional.


Mine also makes a hard drive sound. Maybe it’s normal? Aside from a noisy iris and lens cover mine has been flawless.

Text isn’t as sharp as on my DLP but that’s a limitation of the LCD shifting tech I believe. I only notice it on the Directv guide and Denon AVR overlay.


----------



## rekbones

I have the iris on high and don't hear a thing. I had an Epson HC6100 and it clattered like your describing but my hearing most likely isn't as good as it was back then.


----------



## biglen

I have the iris on high too, and never hear a thing. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Kieran

Got my screen installed yesterday, and just had to get the projector up and running then too. This is straight out of the box, no calibration, just a bit of quick focus and image shift/zoom. Then turned on a 4k clip from YouTube...










Lots more tweaking and calibrating to come, but not bad for a quick start!

Need to work out a small bit of wrinkles in the screen (upper left corner EDIT: you can't see them in that picture). 

Here's where the 5050UB is hiding...


----------



## LIPLASMA

I am at a loss and looking for some advice?

6050UB -> Denon 6400 -> Apple TV and Panasonic Blueray

Two days ago, I turned on my theatre as always and got a "no signal" message on the screen. I did all of the usual troubleshooting measures, did a hard reboot on everything, reset the cables, checked all the settings. I tried removing the AVR from the chain and plugged the AppleTV directly into the HDMI from the projector, and still nothing. I tried using the HDMI 2 on the projector nothing.

When I check the HDMI status, it shows it's connected to the AVR. When I unplug the AVR, it disappears, so it must be connected.

Any advice would be appreciated. I have had no issues in the 2 years I have had this theatre setup.


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## wookiegr

Not that I know anything but if you have a 1080p PC monitor laying around with HDMI hook that up to the AVR. maybe it defaulted to a resolution settings the projector doesn't like after a firmware upgrade pushed by the AVR. At least to get into the video settings to disable upscaling or whatever it might be doing. Or the monitor to the apple tv in case that it outputting some whacky resolution or framerate.


----------



## reechings

Kieran said:


> Got my screen installed yesterday, and just had to get the projector up and running then too. This is straight out of the box, no calibration, just a bit of quick focus and image shift/zoom. Then turned on a 4k clip from YouTube...
> 
> View attachment 3114732
> 
> 
> Lots more tweaking and calibrating to come, but not bad for a quick start!
> 
> Need to work out a small bit of wrinkles in the screen (upper left corner EDIT: you can't see them in that picture).
> 
> Here's where the 5050UB is hiding...
> 
> View attachment 3114734


I like your hiding spot!

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> Got my screen installed yesterday, and just had to get the projector up and running then too. This is straight out of the box, no calibration, just a bit of quick focus and image shift/zoom. Then turned on a 4k clip from YouTube...
> 
> View attachment 3114732
> 
> 
> Lots more tweaking and calibrating to come, but not bad for a quick start!
> 
> Need to work out a small bit of wrinkles in the screen (upper left corner EDIT: you can't see them in that picture).
> 
> Here's where the 5050UB is hiding...
> 
> View attachment 3114734


I'm assuming there's a fan in there pulling the hot air out?  I don't see one in the pics. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> I'm assuming there's a fan in there pulling the hot air out?  I don't see one in the pics.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


There will be.
That's why the access door is still open. I haven't installed the fans yet. But you can see the intake slot on the far right of the soffit, and the exhaust where the fans will be, is just to the left of the access door. The whole soffit is one big volume, but sealed (or will be sealed... need to order the glass for the hole still).
My painter offered to paint the wood vent grills for me, and he's not returned them yet.


----------



## Kieran

reechings said:


> I like your hiding spot!


Thanks! I cut the hole with a 5 inch hole saw, and kind of regret not going with a 6" hole. I had some issues with the image hitting the sides of the hole because I am using a lot of downward lens shift. I had to shove the projector all the way flush with the inside wall, and prop it up on three 1/2 inch pieces of plywood to clear the hole.
Not sure if I can enlarge it easily, since the arbor bit won't have anything to drill into for the center. Alternatively I could make it a rectangular hole. We'll see. It's working for now, but I still need to lock in the screen position.


----------



## arnemetis

Kieran said:


> Thanks! I cut the hole with a 5 inch hole saw, and kind of regret not going with a 6" hole. I had some issues with the image hitting the sides of the hole because I am using a lot of downward lens shift. I had to shove the projector all the way flush with the inside wall, and prop it up on three 1/2 inch pieces of plywood to clear the hole.
> Not sure if I can enlarge it easily, since the arbor bit won't have anything to drill into for the center. Alternatively I could make it a rectangular hole. We'll see. It's working for now, but I still need to lock in the screen position.


I had a similar problem, though it was when I changed the hole for my mount. I went from 1-1/2" to 1-7/8", so yeah there was nothing to bite. After a lot of fiddling and trying different ideas, I came up with this gem:
1) Use the smaller hole saw to cut out a disc of material out of the same or thicker stock (if you still have the scrap piece that didn't break, use it!)
2) Securely jam the disc in the hole saw as deep as you can get it. If it's loose you will need to shim it so it doesn't move around.
3) Place the small hole saw with secured disc back into the hole in the same direction you drilled it out. Again if it is not a snug fit, use shims to secure it in place. Make sure the disc of material is i nthe same plane as your wall now.
4) Line up the new hole saw over the old one with the disc, using the existing center hole to align it. Remember you really only need it to keep you aligned long enough for the path to get started, but I kept mine in place throughout the cut.


----------



## Kieran

arnemetis said:


> I had a similar problem, though it was when I changed the hole for my mount. I went from 1-1/2" to 1-7/8", so yeah there was nothing to bite. After a lot of fiddling and trying different ideas, I came up with this gem:
> 1) Use the smaller hole saw to cut out a disc of material out of the same or thicker stock (if you still have the scrap piece that didn't break, use it!)
> 2) Securely jam the disc in the hole saw as deep as you can get it. If it's loose you will need to shim it so it doesn't move around.
> 3) Place the small hole saw with secured disc back into the hole in the same direction you drilled it out. Again if it is not a snug fit, use shims to secure it in place. Make sure the disc of material is i nthe same plane as your wall now.
> 4) Line up the new hole saw over the old one with the disc, using the existing center hole to align it. Remember you really only need it to keep you aligned long enough for the path to get started, but I kept mine in place throughout the cut.


Thanks I'll keep this in mind if I decide to try to enlarge it. If I do, I probably won't use the same centerline; I'll keep the top of the new hole aligned / tangent to the existing hole, and have the new hole go an inch lower.
But I might just cut a square hole too.... we'll see.


----------



## hondakilla98

Kieran said:


> Thanks I'll keep this in mind if I decide to try to enlarge it. If I do, I probably won't use the same centerline; I'll keep the top of the new hole aligned / tangent to the existing hole, and have the new hole go an inch lower.
> But I might just cut a square hole too.... we'll see.


My solution to this problem is a piece of drywall or plywood. I use the hole saw for the new hole size and cut a hole in the material. Then I clamp, screw, or have someone hold the new piece to the wall where I want the hole. Now you have something to keep your hole saw in line without using the center bit.


----------



## Kieran

hondakilla98 said:


> My solution to this problem is a piece of drywall or plywood. I use the hole saw for the new hole size and cut a hole in the material. Then I clamp, screw, or have someone hold the new piece to the wall where I want the hole. Now you have something to keep your hole saw in line without using the center bit.


I take it you're using the cut piece as a guide? I'm not sure how you'd clamp it in place without the saw cutting the clamp (or "hold" it for that matter! )


----------



## CZ Eddie

My fans have started going to max RPM for like 30 seconds when I'm powering on the projector for the first time of the day. And I have had a handful of "blink" episodes where the screen randomly goes dark during playback, for about ten seconds before going back to normal.

I'm on medium power and probably still under 1000 hours.

Anyone know what the deal is with the fans running high like that?

The blink could be my PC, AVR or projector, not sure which yet.


----------



## arnemetis

CZ Eddie said:


> My fans have started going to max RPM for like 30 seconds when I'm powering on the projector for the first time of the day. And I have had a handful of "blink" episodes where the screen randomly goes dark during playback, for about ten seconds before going back to normal.
> 
> I'm on medium power and probably still under 1000 hours.
> 
> Anyone know what the deal is with the fans running high like that?
> 
> The blink could be my PC, AVR or projector, not sure which yet.


I have the high fan speeds when first starting up perhaps half the time, maybe a bit less. I've read here that it's normal and is just part of the projector's process, but I have no actual data to back that up. I'm also on medium power and easily under 1k hours.

The only time I've had blacked out screen is when switching refresh rates or switching to digital cinema where the color filter engages. Check your cables are securely connected, might be a connection or handshake issue.


----------



## LIPLASMA

LIPLASMA said:


> I am at a loss and looking for some advice?
> 
> 6050UB -> Denon 6400 -> Apple TV and Panasonic Blueray
> 
> Two days ago, I turned on my theatre as always and got a "no signal" message on the screen. I did all of the usual troubleshooting measures, did a hard reboot on everything, reset the cables, checked all the settings. I tried removing the AVR from the chain and plugged the AppleTV directly into the HDMI from the projector, and still nothing. I tried using the HDMI 2 on the projector nothing.
> 
> When I check the HDMI status, it shows it's connected to the AVR. When I unplug the AVR, it disappears, so it must be connected.
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated. I have had no issues in the 2 years I have had this theatre setup.
> 
> View attachment 3114751


Can the optical HDMI cable fail in some way? It hasn't been touched since it was installed but can they just start to fail? I can't seem to find any other cause.


----------



## Wxyzbrendan

Kieran said:


> Thanks! I cut the hole with a 5 inch hole saw, and kind of regret not going with a 6" hole. I had some issues with the image hitting the sides of the hole because I am using a lot of downward lens shift. I had to shove the projector all the way flush with the inside wall, and prop it up on three 1/2 inch pieces of plywood to clear the hole.
> Not sure if I can enlarge it easily, since the arbor bit won't have anything to drill into for the center. Alternatively I could make it a rectangular hole. We'll see. It's working for now, but I still need to lock in the screen position.


If it’s just drywall you can run your hole saw in reverse. That way it doesn’t bite hard and make it skip/ gouge. 
That’s what I do.


----------



## chewynuts

I have a 5050ube in the way. Is there a post I can refer to to determine which hdfury to buy? I'll be playing most media from my apple TV 4k for streaming services and a Panasonic ub 420 Blu Ray for the disc media. I just want the hdfury to avoid toggling to the hdr mode everytime hdr content is on.

My setup is apple tv/Panasonic ubp 420->NAD T777 V3-> Epson 5050ube (only display device connected)


----------



## fredworld

chewynuts said:


> I have a 5050ube in the way. Is there a post I can refer to to determine which hdfury to buy? I'll be playing most media from my apple TV 4k for streaming services and a Panasonic ub 420 Blu Ray for the disc media. I just want the hdfury to avoid toggling to the hdr mode everytime hdr content is on.
> 
> My setup is apple tv/Panasonic ubp 420->NAD T777 V3-> Epson 5050ube (only display device connected)


My 5050UB switches automatically when it's fed HDR signals. Does that change your plans any?


----------



## nusilver

JPBoggis said:


> Yes for me it's been set and forget and I have been using the Dolby Vision LLDV 'hack' for over 1 year now - works great with Apple TV 4K, Fire Cube 4K and Sony X800m2.
> 
> HDR slider always stays set on 5 which works best for my setup.
> 
> Only time I've needed to make any adjustments is when watching HLG UHD content on BBC iPlayer which does not benefit from the DV hack (HLG can't be converted to DV)


Thanks for posting your settings. I'm gonna grab a Vertex 2 or a Diva and get this in my chain shortly. It's quite difficult to parse where to start on this stuff so kudos to you for the help.


----------



## Kieran

Wxyzbrendan said:


> If it’s just drywall you can run your hole saw in reverse. That way it doesn’t bite hard and make it skip/ gouge.
> That’s what I do.


Interesting! It's drywall first, then 1/2 inch OSB under that. So it would work up to the wood, but maybe by then the hole in the drywall would guide the saw into the wood....


----------



## DaGamePimp

LIPLASMA said:


> Can the optical HDMI cable fail in some way? It hasn't been touched since it was installed but can they just start to fail? I can't seem to find any other cause.


Yes, fiber optic HDMI cables can fail and are generally considered to be more fragile than a standard HDMI cable.

HDMI chipsets are susceptible to damage from *static discharge so if you have recently connected new HDMI devices (or possibly hot-swapped an HDMI cable) it could have caused a static discharge.

* I am not claiming this is your issue but it is a possibility if you have done substantial testing. 

When in doubt always try a different cable.

Best of luck,
- Jason


----------



## DaGamePimp

chewynuts said:


> I have a 5050ube in the way. Is there a post I can refer to to determine which hdfury to buy? I'll be playing most media from my apple TV 4k for streaming services and a Panasonic ub 420 Blu Ray for the disc media. I just want the hdfury to avoid toggling to the hdr mode everytime hdr content is on.
> 
> My setup is apple tv/Panasonic ubp 420->NAD T777 V3-> Epson 5050ube (only display device connected)



The Epson's do automatically recognize HDR but they do not auto-switch to a different HDR calibration setting/preset (vs SDR).

Many of the HDfury devices can do LLDV if that is what you are wanting to do but simply placing one in the chain does not force an auto-switch to a different calibration preset.

It is possible that the newer HDfury devices with RS232 control (Vertex 2, DIVA) could solve this but not sure if anyone has done it as of yet (it's not plug-n-play).

- Jason


----------



## LIPLASMA

DaGamePimp said:


> Yes, fiber optic HDMI cables can fail and are generally considered to be more fragile than a standard HDMI cable.
> 
> HDMI chipsets are susceptible to damage from *static discharge so if you have recently connected new HDMI devices (or possibly hot-swapped an HDMI cable) it could have caused a static discharge.
> 
> * I am not claiming this is your issue but it is a possibility if you have done substantial testing.
> 
> When in doubt always try a different cable.
> 
> Best of luck,
> - Jason


Thanks for the feedback.

Yes, I have eliminated every possibility now, and it seems it is the cable that has failed. I have ordered a new 40ft fiber optic to replace it. Hopefully, this one lasts more than 2 years it's a real pain to run it.


----------



## biglen

LIPLASMA said:


> Thanks for the feedback.
> 
> Yes, I have eliminated every possibility now, and it seems it is the cable that has failed. I have ordered a new 40ft fiber optic to replace it. Hopefully, this one lasts more than 2 years it's a real pain to run it.


Not sure where you ordered from, but if you overpaid for the cable, which most people do, then maybe you can cancel the order, and get a BJC Series 3a active cable. They are rock solid, and reasonably priced. 



HDMI Cable from Blue Jeans Cable



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Gellert1

I can vouch for Blue Jeans cables. All my electronics are connected with them except for the one from the receiver to the Epson. For that, I use a 40' fiber optic cable and it hasn't given me any problems since day one, exactly two years ago. The image is great.


----------



## LIPLASMA

biglen said:


> Not sure where you ordered from, but if you overpaid for the cable, which most people do, then maybe you can cancel the order, and get a BJC Series 3a active cable. They are rock solid, and reasonably priced.
> 
> 
> 
> HDMI Cable from Blue Jeans Cable
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the link.

I prefer optical fiber to active HDMI, which I used before and didn't have as good a result. I am going almost 50ft and that is pushing it for active HDMI.

I ordered this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG7C25W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 based on a friends recommendation who is currently using it.


----------



## Luminated67

LIPLASMA said:


> Thanks for the link.
> 
> I prefer optical fiber to active HDMI, which I used before and didn't have as good a result. I am going almost 50ft and that is pushing it for active HDMI.
> 
> I ordered this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG7C25W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 based on a friends recommendation who is currently using it.


I've been using this particular cable (though only 33ft) for the last 2 years with zero issues.


----------



## JPBoggis

I've also been using the ATZEBE cable (10m) for 1 year with no issues.


----------



## hondakilla98

Kieran said:


> I take it you're using the cut piece as a guide? I'm not sure how you'd clamp it in place without the saw cutting the clamp (or "hold" it for that matter! )


In your case a clamp wouldn't work because of your closed soffit. I was giving a general idea of how I use it. Not a specific one for this situation. You could put a couple drywall screws in opposite corners. Run the hole saw in reverse for the drywall, and switch direction once you hit the osb. Then you just have some small holes to patch from the drwyall screws. I've had to do this for can light installation, when someone used the wrong saw and all the holes were 1/2" too small.


----------



## chewynuts

Thank you for the advice. In that case may I ask why 5050ub owners would consider using a HDfury?


----------



## Kieran

chewynuts said:


> Thank you for the advice. In that case may I ask why 5050ub owners would consider using a HDfury?


To whom are you replying? Not sure of the context of your question. Maybe try quoting the post to which you're replying? There are lots of reasons to use an HDFury with a 5050UB.


----------



## chewynuts

fredworld said:


> My 5050UB switches automatically when it's fed HDR signals. Does that change your plans any?





DaGamePimp said:


> The Epson's do automatically recognize HDR but they do not auto-switch to a different HDR calibration setting/preset (vs SDR).
> 
> Many of the HDfury devices can do LLDV if that is what you are wanting to do but simply placing one in the chain does not force an auto-switch to a different calibration preset.
> 
> It is possible that the newer HDfury devices with RS232 control (Vertex 2, DIVA) could solve this but not sure if anyone has done it as of yet (it's not plug-n-play).
> 
> - Jason


Apologies, failed to multi-quote.

From my understanding, the HDfury is primarily used to split out the video and audio signals for members whose AVR does not support HDR video passthrough.
As my NAD T777 V3 receiver support UHD, HDR10, and Dolby Vision pass-through, I understand I will not need a HDFury for this purpose.

I plan to have a professional calibrator (HDTVbyChad, awesome guy btw), come to calibrate the 5050ub who will create a separate SDR and HDR profile.
If I don't want to mess around with the RS232 configuration with the Vertex 2 and DIVA, am I correct to say that a "workaround" method would be to set my Apple TV 4k to have the match dynamic range setting to "OFF" and have it convert the content with SDR color space to the LLDV color space and just use the HDR profile on the 5050ub all the time.
Most of the 4k blu rays I watch on my panasonic 420 are HDR so should be no need to switch. On the occasion that I have to play a blu ray with only SDR color space, I will just toggle the profiles on my 5050ub manually.

Am I understanding this correctly?


----------



## PixelPusher15

chewynuts said:


> Apologies, failed to multi-quote.
> 
> From my understanding, the HDfury is primarily used to split out the video and audio signals for members whose AVR does not support HDR video passthrough.
> As my NAD T777 V3 receiver support UHD, HDR10, and Dolby Vision pass-through, I understand I will not need a HDFury for this purpose.
> 
> I plan to have a professional calibrator (HDTVbyChad, awesome guy btw), come to calibrate the 5050ub who will create a separate SDR and HDR profile.
> If I don't want to mess around with the RS232 configuration with the Vertex 2 and DIVA, am I correct to say that a "workaround" method would be to set my Apple TV 4k to have the match dynamic range setting to "OFF" and have it convert the content with SDR color space to the LLDV color space and just use the HDR profile on the 5050ub all the time.
> Most of the 4k blu rays I watch on my panasonic 420 are HDR so should be no need to switch. On the occasion that I have to play a blu ray with only SDR color space, I will just toggle the profiles on my 5050ub manually.
> 
> Am I understanding this correctly?


From my reading and from my experience, forcing the ATV4K to do HDR for everything, all the time is not great. If you are going to have separate HDR and SDR user presets and are ok toggling between the two, then just set the ATV to match range and default to 4K SDR (this is what I do). It is annoying to keep track of what is in HDR and not but I am under the impression that this is the way to get the best quality for each source. 

Also, you'll only get LLDV if you have a HDFury device. That's the reason why 5050 owners get one. (I wasn't able to get mine to work, but that's another story). Side note, I'm playing around with not using HDR and instead just doing everything in SDR on the ATV. I watched Captain America Civil War last night and honestly thought it looked better than with HDR. My issues has been that some scenes look great with HDR but others just look dim and washed out, or flat. I am constantly wanting to fiddle with the HDR slider. This is what I believe is the whole point of the HDFury LLDV "hack" that I wasn't able to successfully implement. I'll try again in the future but HDR for me has been a pain. It also might be my DIY calibration. Although, the my calibration did improve on the out of the box performance. Maybe having it professionally calibrated would do it 🤷‍♂️


----------



## AVTimme

With Apple TV I'm 100% happy with having everything in SDR 4k. Every show and every movie looks better in SDR compared to HDR with the TW9400. The colors are still the same so you will still get that beautiful color


----------



## PixelPusher15

AVTimme said:


> With Apple TV I'm 100% happy with having everything in SDR 4k. Every show and every movie looks better in SDR compared to HDR with the TW9400. The colors are still the same so you will still get that beautiful color


Is that true? When I checked the info on my 5050 last night it came across as 8 bit 4:4:4 Rec 709, not BT2020 like it does for HDR.

I agree it looked great though. Scenes were way more consistent.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Is that true? When I checked the info on my 5050 last night it came across as 8 bit 4:4:4 Rec 709, not BT2020 like it does for HDR.
> 
> I agree it looked great though. Scenes were way more consistent.


It is not true. BT2020 is a wider color gamut. Now, whether a particular individual notices the difference, and may qualitatively say that to them the "colors are the same" is another story. But they are measurably different with WCG. BT2020 > dci-p3 > rec.709
Relevant homework:








DCI-P3 Color – What It Means in Today’s Ultra HD World - HomeTheaterHifi.com


By now, in September of 2019, even AV enthusiasts new to the hobby will know about Ultra HD. It’s been around for several years now, starting with the...




hometheaterhifi.com


----------



## Kieran

Speaking of HDR... can anyone recommend a particular YouTube clip that is a good demonstration / test of HDR? There are hundreds of clips that claim to be HDR, but none of them shows up as HDR when I bring up the HDR status menu on the 5050ub. I want to make sure everything is working correctly (esp. the 30ft optical HDMI cable). Right now YouTube on the Sony X800M2 is the easiest thing to turn on while testing and adjusting things.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Speaking of HDR... can anyone recommend a particular YouTube clip that is a good demonstration / test of HDR? There are hundreds of clips that claim to be HDR, but none of them shows up as HDR when I bring up the HDR status menu on the 5050ub. I want to make sure everything is working correctly (esp. the 30ft optical HDMI cable). Right now YouTube on the Sony X800M2 is the easiest thing to turn on while testing and adjusting things.


You sure the Sony X800M2 supports HDR streams through YouTube? The ATV4K doesn't and neither does the Shield Tube I have. But, my Roku Ultra does.

This video is pretty much a go to for everyone:


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> You sure the Sony X800M2 supports HDR streams through YouTube? The ATV4K doesn't and neither does the Shield Tube I have. But, my Roku Ultra does.
> 
> This video is pretty much a go to for everyone:


No, I'm not sure it does. I _assumed_ it does, but you know what assume does...
Yes, that video is one I've been watching. 5050ub says SDR, so I guess the x800m2 doesn't do hdr for youtube.


----------



## chicodang

Hello,
just ordered the 5050ub. It will replaced my 45es.
can’t wait to receive it !
Regards


----------



## PixelPusher15

chicodang said:


> Hello,
> just ordered the 5050ub. It will replaced my 45es.
> can’t wait to receive it !
> Regards


I’m actually really interested in how you like it. I was contemplating getting a 45es for a hot second


----------



## SimpleTheater

LIPLASMA said:


> Thanks for the link.
> 
> I prefer optical fiber to active HDMI, which I used before and didn't have as good a result. I am going almost 50ft and that is pushing it for active HDMI.
> 
> I ordered this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG7C25W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 based on a friends recommendation who is currently using it.


I used a 50’ active HDMI Cabernet cable from Monoprice for some time and constantly had issues. I switched to a CSILU optical fiber cable I bought on Amazon for $165 and never a single problem. I see they now sell a 66’ version for $66, so the price has dropped from 3 years ago.


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> Speaking of HDR... can anyone recommend a particular YouTube clip that is a good demonstration / test of HDR? There are hundreds of clips that claim to be HDR, but none of them shows up as HDR when I bring up the HDR status menu on the 5050ub. I want to make sure everything is working correctly (esp. the 30ft optical HDMI cable). Right now YouTube on the Sony X800M2 is the easiest thing to turn on while testing and adjusting things.


This guy posts a lot of HDR clips that I use. 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app[/URL]

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Baron5

@chicodang
I've been waiting patiently for my 6050. It shipped from Epson to the dealer. Hoping to have it by the end of next week. Will be replacing my 5040. Can't wait to get HDR on PS5 and Shield Pro.


----------



## Baron5

LIPLASMA said:


> Thanks for the link.
> 
> I prefer optical fiber to active HDMI, which I used before and didn't have as good a result. I am going almost 50ft and that is pushing it for active HDMI.
> 
> I ordered this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG7C25W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 based on a friends recommendation who is currently using it.


I ordered the 30' fiber HDMI below off of amazon. Haven't had any trouble at all. 



https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07NVFRS7Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title


----------



## ShadowBoy

LIPLASMA said:


> I am at a loss and looking for some advice?
> 
> 6050UB -> Denon 6400 -> Apple TV and Panasonic Blueray
> 
> Two days ago, I turned on my theatre as always and got a "no signal" message on the screen. I did all of the usual troubleshooting measures, did a hard reboot on everything, reset the cables, checked all the settings. I tried removing the AVR from the chain and plugged the AppleTV directly into the HDMI from the projector, and still nothing. I tried using the HDMI 2 on the projector nothing.
> 
> When I check the HDMI status, it shows it's connected to the AVR. When I unplug the AVR, it disappears, so it must be connected.
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated. I have had no issues in the 2 years I have had this theatre setup.
> 
> View attachment 3114751


Here's what I would do. Turn everything off and unplug them for 5 minutes. If you have a blu-ray player and can test that it works on a tv, do that. Then fire up the projector. If it's producing a picture, turn on the projector menu and check nothing has changed in the settings. If all is good, plug the blu-ray directly into the projector. If it still says "no signal" and the player worked with the tv, swap out the cable with you best cable. If that doesn't work, see if you can get something to project using a USB flashdrive. If that doesn't work, and it doesn't appear to be something simple like a wrong setting on the projector, then you might have to take the projector in for service. Otherwise, it sounds like you've done all the obvious things. Sorry, man.


----------



## garfieldhy

Hi everyone, may I ask is there anyway to control the 5050ub power on and off via Web browser/HomeKit/Siri shortcut? My projector connected to a Denon AVR with fiber optical HDMI cable. The AVR can be powered on/off with the projector when I set HDMI-CEC on both devices, but the projector has no response to the receiver's on/off.
The iProjection APP works fine, but I can not control it using Homekit or Siri shortcuts.
Any suggestion works! Thanks a lot!


----------



## chicodang

PixelPusher15 said:


> I’m actually really interested in how you like it. I was contemplating getting a 45es for a hot second


I really like my 45es, it will remain my backup in case of issue for sure.


----------



## chicodang

Baron5 said:


> @chicodang
> I've been waiting patiently for my 6050. It shipped from Epson to the dealer. Hoping to have it by the end of next week. Will be replacing my 5040. Can't wait to get HDR on PS5 and Shield Pro.


Me too, I have the PS5 and Xbox Series X. My son loves my CX 65. This TV is awesome but I really like big screen. We should have Microsoft Flight Simulator this summer I think on Series X so I want to try it with the 5050ub.
I also have a 4K Apple TV.


----------



## Kieran

Kieran said:


> No, I'm not sure it does. I _assumed_ it does, but you know what assume does...
> Yes, that video is one I've been watching. 5050ub says SDR, so I guess the x800m2 doesn't do hdr for youtube.


OK so I can't seem to get HDR from any of the built-in apps (YouTube, Netflix, or Prime) in the Sony X800M2. I searched online reviews of the Sony and none of them state that it doesn't play HDR from those apps. I'm beginning to question if my HDMI cable is the culprit. The only way to test that is to bring the sony up into the soffit and hook it up with a short hdmi cable.... not crazy about that plan.  
Does anyone have any other ideas of what might be the problem before I start unhooking stuff?


----------



## Kieran

Kieran said:


> OK so I can't seem to get HDR from any of the built-in apps (YouTube, Netflix, or Prime) in the Sony X800M2. I searched online reviews of the Sony and none of them state that it doesn't play HDR from those apps. I'm beginning to question if my HDMI cable is the culprit. The only way to test that is to bring the sony up into the soffit and hook it up with a short hdmi cable.... not crazy about that plan.
> Does anyone have any other ideas of what might be the problem before I start unhooking stuff?


Also, am I checking for HDR correctly on the 5050? I just press the "HDR" button at the bottom of the remote, and the pop-up shows "source = SDR" is that the line that will switch to "HDR" if the pj is receiving an HDR10 signal?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> OK so I can't seem to get HDR from any of the built-in apps (YouTube, Netflix, or Prime) in the Sony X800M2. I searched online reviews of the Sony and none of them state that it doesn't play HDR from those apps. I'm beginning to question if my HDMI cable is the culprit. The only way to test that is to bring the sony up into the soffit and hook it up with a short hdmi cable.... not crazy about that plan.
> Does anyone have any other ideas of what might be the problem before I start unhooking stuff?


If you can get 4K 60hz SDR on YouTube but can’t get 4K 24hz HDR from Netflix or Prime then it most likely isn’t a HDMI issue. Maybe reach out to Sony support and see if you can get a reply back whether the player supports HDR for streaming.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Also, am I checking for HDR correctly on the 5050? I just press the "HDR" button at the bottom of the remote, and the pop-up shows "source = SDR" is that the line that will switch to "HDR" if the pj is receiving an HDR10 signal?


Yeah, that will tell you if it’s HDR or not but for the full signal info you want to go to Menu > Info > Projector Info.


----------



## PixelPusher15

@Kieran, I found this for the Sony UDP-x700. It says it can play HDR for Netflix and Prime:


https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/home-video-blu-ray-disc-players-recorders/ubp-x700/articles/00189904



I’d guess the 800 should be able to as well then. Is there something in your settings in the player that needs to be enabled? 🤷‍♂️


----------



## Maineiac12

PixelPusher15 said:


> @Kieran, I found this for the Sony UDP-x700. It says it can play HDR for Netflix and Prime:
> 
> 
> https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/home-video-blu-ray-disc-players-recorders/ubp-x700/articles/00189904
> 
> 
> 
> I’d guess the 800 should be able to as well then. Is there something in your settings in the player that needs to be enabled? 🤷‍♂️


I believe the Sony has an “enhanced” HDMI mode that must be turned on, which is off by default. I wonder if that could be the problem?


----------



## kthejoker20

I've had mine for a week now, I'm so loving it. I originally got the optoma uhd50, but returned it. It sucked, my 12 year old panasonic ae7000 was better. There's no way the uhd50 was 4k even.

This 5050 was the upgrade image I was looking for. Loving it.

But I'm using the computer. Image looks way better in SDR then HDR. I have the latest hdmi cable so it's not the connection.



Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

Maineiac12 said:


> I believe the Sony has an “enhanced” HDMI mode that must be turned on, which is off by default. I wonder if that could be the problem?


I'll check that out and report back. thanks!


----------



## kdog750

I'm about to mount my 6050ub but I'm having trouble seeing how this attaches. It's the mount that came with the projector. It has a lever on the side which looks like its used to make the pegs latch onto it, but it doesn't move. Anyone put the mount on themselves and has a suggestion?


----------



## KK in CT

kdog750 said:


> I'm about to mount my 6050ub but I'm having trouble seeing how this attaches. It's the mount that came with the projector. It has a lever on the side which looks like its used to make the pegs latch onto it, but it doesn't move. Anyone put the mount on themselves and has a suggestion?


The lever on the side should move to slide those holes over the pegs and secure the projector. Then you lock it in place with the key to make sure that lever isn’t moved back by accident and the projector drops. Is it possible it’s already locked somehow and you just need to unlock it with the key to allow it to move?


----------



## kdog750

KK in CT said:


> The lever on the side should move to slide those holes over the pegs and secure the projector. Then you lock it in place with the key to make sure that lever isn’t moved back by accident and the projector drops. Is it possible it’s already locked somehow and you just need to unlock it with the key to allow it to move?


Ah that was it. I completely missed the keyhole even being there. Thanks a ton.


----------



## KK in CT

kdog750 said:


> Ah that was it. I completely missed the keyhole even being there. Thanks a ton.


No problem. We just mounted ours a few weeks ago so it’s fresh in my mind. I put those keys up there on the mount so I wouldn’t lose them for whenever I need to get it off there again. The directions that come with it aren’t fantastic.


----------



## kdog750

KK in CT said:


> No problem. We just mounted ours a few weeks ago so it’s fresh in my mind. I put those keys up there on the mount so I wouldn’t lose them for whenever I need to get it off there again. The directions that come with it aren’t fantastic.


Thanks again.

Did you have to add supports in the attic so all four lag bolts would attach?


----------



## KK in CT

kdog750 said:


> Thanks again.
> 
> Did you have to add supports in the attic so all four lag bolts would attach?


No. I have two pretty long lag bolts on one side and that thing isn’t going anywhere. I watched a number of installer videos before I put it up and not one of them used more than the one side when bolting it up to the ceiling. Likely because the other side would just be held up by Sheetrock anyway and if you’re using good hardware it’s solid. The projector is decent size but it’s not 100 pounds. Here’s one of the videos I found in case you want one for reference as they’re using the exact mount in it:


----------



## kdog750

KK in CT said:


> No. I have two pretty long lag bolts on one side and that thing isn’t going anywhere. I watched a number of installer videos before I put it up and not one of them used more than the one side when bolting it up to the ceiling. Likely because the other side would just be held up by Sheetrock anyway and if you’re using good hardware it’s solid. The projector is decent size but it’s not 100 pounds. Here’s one of the videos I found in case you want one for reference as they’re using the exact mount in it:


wow, thanks a ton again. I had considered the option of using two holes but decided I was going to have to do some carpentry work to make sure it's reinforced enough. This will make it much simplier for sure!


----------



## KK in CT

kdog750 said:


> wow, thanks a ton again. I had considered the option of using two holes but decided I was going to have to do some carpentry work to make sure it's reinforced enough. This will make it much simplier for sure!


I was thinking the same thing - second guessing myself. But watching all these installers then putting the two lag bolts in and feeling for myself just how solid that mount is with the two in there I had no concerns. My project is solid as can be. I definitely used some decent bolts.


----------



## Maineiac12

KK in CT said:


> I was thinking the same thing - second guessing myself. But watching all these installers then putting the two lag bolts in and feeling for myself just how solid that mount is with the two in there I had no concerns. My project is solid as can be. I definitely used some decent bolts.


I had the same thoughts when I got my mount. Since it’s a Chief brand mount, I purchased their ceiling plate that only requires 2 bolts per the instructions (CMS115) and used it with the epson mount. Works great!


----------



## nusilver

My 5050UBe came just before lunch today, so obviously I spent my lunch setting things up... and then I waited all day for night to fall so my currently unfinished theater space (a 20x10 Tuff Shed) could be as dark as possible. Coming as I am from a ViewSonic PX727-4K, I am just so completely in love with this thing. We have a 65” LG OLED B7 in the living room so watching movies on the projector always felt like we were trading image quality for size. Not so with the 5050. Tonight we watched News of the World in 4K and Mad Men in 1080p from my OPPO 203, and now I’m watching Blade Runner because I just can’t help myself. The color and black levels are just such a massive improvement from what I’d gotten used to.

I’m currently waiting on a CAT5 cable so I can set up my Vertex 2 for LLDV (seems I need the device physically wired in to my network to configure it for the “hack,” is that right?), but for now, I’ve got the Epson running in Digital Cinema mode for 4K and the OPPO doing an HDR->SDR BT.2020 conversion. And I’m just pleased as punch. Which is something I’ve never said before, so you can be sure it’s true.

Ramble over. I love it.


----------



## kdog750

I'm thinking of leaving my old Epson 8700ub ceiling mounted and mount my new 6050ub next to it to be able to switch between the two. Are there any disadvantages to picture quality by having to use the keystone adjustment that much to center the picture?


----------



## fredworld

kdog750 said:


> I'm thinking of leaving my old Epson 8700ub ceiling mounted and mount my new 6050ub next to it to be able to switch between the two. Are there any disadvantages to picture quality by having to use the keystone adjustment that much to center the picture?


Presuming your 8700 is mounted center to the screen, then I don't see how Keystone is needed. Just use Lens Shift as there should be plenty of adjustment room. If keystoning is evident after setup, then use it, but only as a last resort but I doubt it'll be necessary.


----------



## kdog750

fredworld said:


> Presuming your 8700 is mounted center to the screen, then I don't see how Keystone is needed. Just use Lens Shift as there should be plenty of adjustment room. If keystoning is evident after setup, then use it, but only as a last resort but I doubt it'll be necessary.


My bad, I meant lens shift.


----------



## Venue

Helping out a friend with a projector setup, looking at the Epsons due to a price limitation, however, noticed a couple of things, see below:

1) 5050UB is TW7400 in Europe?
2) 6050UB is TW9400?

I'm quite confused and suspicious, the contrast numbers does not match on Epson's websites, comparing the overseas models.
For example, the TW7400 has a dynamic contrast ratio listed at 200,000:1, while the 5050UB is listed at 1,000,000:1, clearly not the same.
TW7400 seems to be more inline with Epson Home Cinema 4010, which is also listed at 200,000:1.
TW9400 has 1,200,000:1, the same amount as 6050UB, so no questions there, bit strange seeing the above.

5050UB is rated 110-230V, so it'll work in Europe no problems, I mean why on earth would you support Epson EU and purchase the TW7400?

Do I have this all wrong?
Thankful for any information, thanks.


----------



## Luminated67

Venue said:


> Helping out a friend with a projector setup, looking at the Epsons due to a price limitation, however, noticed a couple of things, see below:
> 
> 1) 5050UB is TW7400 in Europe?
> 2) 6050UB is TW9400?
> 
> I'm quite confused and suspicious, the contrast numbers does not match on Epson's websites, comparing the overseas models.
> For example, the TW7400 has a dynamic contrast ratio listed at 200,000:1, while the 5050UB is listed at 1,000,000:1, clearly not the same.
> TW7400 seems to be more inline with Epson Home Cinema 4010, which is also listed at 200,000:1.
> TW9400 has 1,200,000:1, the same amount as 6050UB, so no questions there, bit strange seeing the above.
> 
> 5050UB is rated 110-230V, so it'll work in Europe no problems, I mean why on earth would you support Epson EU and purchase the TW7400?
> 
> Do I have this all wrong?
> Thankful for any information, thanks.


No, the problem is Europe don’t seem to get the full range of projectors from Epson.

The 5050 is the equivalent to the TW8400
The 6050 is the equivalent to the TW9400


----------



## Venue

I see the TW8400 can be had in Australia, but cba with import duties/taxes, shame it never came to Europe, it's TW9400 or no Epson at all, strange distribution strategy, for sure.

Thanks for your answer!


----------



## Luminated67

Venue said:


> I see the TW8400 can be had in Australia, but cba with import duties/taxes, shame it never came to Europe, it's TW9400 or no Epson at all, strange distribution strategy, for sure.
> 
> Thanks for your answer!


Really depends on where you live, in the UK the TW9400 is £2.5k which is way cheaper than you pay for a 6050 in the US and with the right dealers you can get it with a 5yr Epson Warranty.


----------



## Venue

Yeah, I can get the TW9400 for similar price in Sweden too, thumbs up, it's been on sale in Germany down to €2,3k last November (Black Friday) perhaps better to wait a bit.
UK is sadly ruled out due to Brexit, insane import tax in Sweden, 25%, although UK/SWE seem similarly priced, nothing seem to beat Germany, I'll keep an eye out.
Did you get 5yr warranty with your purchase in the UK?


----------



## nusilver

For those using an HD Fury anything with this projector: can you speak to any handshake issues you’ve noticed? I’ve added a Vertex 2 to my chain between the receiver (ONKYO TX-NR787) and the 5050, and there’s a frustrating lag between a program starting and the video coming up on the screen. The example I left in some other threads: on Blade Runner 4K UHD playing from disc via my OPPO 203, on the Ladd Company logo at the beginning, the tree is halfway drawn before I can see the logo, so it’s about six seconds before the image comes up (audio plays from the beginning.)

I’ve been trying out different firmware revisions on the Vertex 2 since hdfuryhelp suggested that might alleviate the problem, but it’s made zero difference. I don’t think a $400 piece of equipment should make the experience worse, so am trying to nail down the cause of the problem. It doesn’t happen at all without the Vertex 2 in the chain.

So: Anyone else experience this? Thanks in advance for your help, as nobody has really had anything to say in the Vertex 2 or LLDV threads.


----------



## PixelPusher15

nusilver said:


> For those using an HD Fury anything with this projector: can you speak to any handshake issues you’ve noticed? I’ve added a Vertex 2 to my chain between the receiver (ONKYO TX-NR787) and the 5050, and there’s a frustrating lag between a program starting and the video coming up on the screen. The example I left in some other threads: on Blade Runner 4K UHD playing from disc via my OPPO 203, on the Ladd Company logo at the beginning, the tree is halfway drawn before I can see the logo, so it’s about six seconds before the image comes up (audio plays from the beginning.)
> 
> I’ve been trying out different firmware revisions on the Vertex 2 since hdfuryhelp suggested that might alleviate the problem, but it’s made zero difference. I don’t think a $400 piece of equipment should make the experience worse, so am trying to nail down the cause of the problem. It doesn’t happen at all without the Vertex 2 in the chain.
> 
> So: Anyone else experience this? Thanks in advance for your help, as nobody has really had anything to say in the Vertex 2 or LLDV threads.


When I had the Vertex 2 it did cause HDMI issues/lagginess. I don’t think it’s HDMI out is as powerful as what is in most AVRs. I noticed that I had way more issues when I used an 18gbps cable vs the one 48gbps I had. My HDMI chain is a bit complex though. I’ve got, from the AVR, a 3’ HDMI > keystone jack > 18gbps 15’ HDMI > keystone jack > 6’ 18gbps HDMI > 5050. It’s that first HDMI cable that made a difference for whatever reason. If it was my HDMI 2.1 Zeskit cable I’d have no issues. A 3’ 18gbps cable (various brands) I’d have issues. The issues came up when I was trying to push 4K 60 HDR, lower res and I was fine. 

I’m not sure if you have any sort of similar setup that you can beef up a section. Or, if that even makes sense. Can you move the Vertex 2 closer to the 5050, just to see if it is an HDMI distance problem?


----------



## nusilver

PixelPusher15 said:


> When I had the Vertex 2 it did cause HDMI issues/lagginess. I don’t think it’s HDMI out is as powerful as what is in most AVRs. I noticed that I had way more issues when I used an 18gbps cable vs the one 48gbps I had. My HDMI chain is a bit complex though. I’ve got, from the AVR, a 3’ HDMI > keystone jack > 18gbps 15’ HDMI > keystone jack > 6’ 18gbps HDMI > 5050. It’s that first HDMI cable that made a difference for whatever reason. If it was my HDMI 2.1 Zeskit cable I’d have no issues. A 3’ 18gbps cable (various brands) I’d have issues. The issues came up when I was trying to push 4K 60 HDR, lower res and I was fine.
> 
> I’m not sure if you have any sort of similar setup that you can beef up a section. Or, if that even makes sense. Can you move the Vertex 2 closer to the 5050, just to see if it is an HDMI distance problem?


I can try to move it closer, although I’d have to run an extension cable to get it up to the loft where the 5050 is sitting (I don’t actually have the space powered yet so there are no outlets nearby.) I may also just try swapping out some HDMI cables. Thanks for confirming this is not just me, especially since you returned your V2 already.


----------



## DaGamePimp

I have a Vertex 1 connected in the chain and it solved all of my handshake/signal drop issues, been rock solid ever since installing it regardless of source.

My install it not typical, my Vertex is before the AVR that the 5050 is (directly) connected to. I use the Vertex as a matrix switch between theater room and media room (all of the other matrix switches that I tried would drop signal here and there, including the ezcoo).

I also added a Zeskit 16' HDMI cable from Marantz AVR to 5050 with excellent results.

- Jason


----------



## MIheatplaya25

I also have a pretty long hdmi handshake when a movie or tv show starts (whether streaming or disk). I have a vertex 2 but I had noticed the delay there prior to installing it. What is the typical delay people are seeing say from audio starting to video being show on 4K HDR material? I even usually see the “hdmi not found” pop up before it starts displaying.

my set up - Apple TV or Panasonic 820 to Onkyo nr787 to vertex 2 (for LLDV) to projector. All 18gbps cables.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> @Kieran, I found this for the Sony UDP-x700. It says it can play HDR for Netflix and Prime:
> 
> 
> https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/home-video-blu-ray-disc-players-recorders/ubp-x700/articles/00189904
> 
> 
> 
> I’d guess the 800 should be able to as well then. Is there something in your settings in the player that needs to be enabled? 🤷‍♂️


I found the problem, it seems to be my receiver.
When I connect straight from the Sony x800m2 to the 5050ub, I get HDR indicated. When I route through the receiver, I get 4k but no HDR.
Receiver is a little old; it's a Yamaha RX-A2020 which I think pre-dates HDR by a bit. It supposedly supports "deep color" but apparently not HDR.


----------



## Luminated67

One of the members on AVForums posted a link to this site for Epson TW9400 (5050/6050) bulbs, they do appear to be genuine Epson bulbs but then who could really tell until you had it in your hand.









Epson Projector Lamp ELPLP89


Epson Projector Lamp ELPLP89 offers a Genuine Replacement Lamp for the following projectors: EH-TW9400W / EH-TW9400 / EH-TW9300W EH-TW9300 / EH-TW7400 / EH-TW7300




www.puretheatre.com


----------



## dimi123

Luminated67 said:


> One of the members on AVForums posted a link to this site for Epson TW9400 (5050/6050) bulbs, they do appear to be genuine Epson bulbs but then who could really tell until you had it in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Projector Lamp ELPLP89
> 
> 
> Epson Projector Lamp ELPLP89 offers a Genuine Replacement Lamp for the following projectors: EH-TW9400W / EH-TW9400 / EH-TW9300W EH-TW9300 / EH-TW7400 / EH-TW7300
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.puretheatre.com


Here's another one. They are genuine Epson lamps. I've been buying them for years. The price has gone up recently, but normally is around 105-110 EUR.

Ersatzlampe EPSON ELPLP89 / V13H010L89 für EH-TW9400W - Lampe


----------



## Venue

Luminated67 said:


> One of the members on AVForums posted a link to this site for Epson TW9400 (5050/6050) bulbs, they do appear to be genuine Epson bulbs but then who could really tell until you had it in your hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Projector Lamp ELPLP89
> 
> 
> Epson Projector Lamp ELPLP89 offers a Genuine Replacement Lamp for the following projectors: EH-TW9400W / EH-TW9400 / EH-TW9300W EH-TW9300 / EH-TW7400 / EH-TW7300
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.puretheatre.com


So, how to spot a genuine one, any tips, what do you look for?


----------



## Venue

Cheaper?









Epson ELPLP89 projector lamp


ELPLP89




www.purple-cat.co.uk


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## Luminated67

Venue said:


> So, how to spot a genuine one, any tips, what do you look for?


I think you need to order it and see if it's the same but I do know Epson sent me a new bulb when my bulb developed a fault and the packaging was the same as the images on that website.


----------



## Venue

Any website documenting firmware updates for these, and what they bring to the table?

Epson seem awfully quiet on the topic.


----------



## fredworld

DELETED


----------



## fredworld

Venue said:


> Any website documenting firmware updates for these, and what they bring to the table?
> 
> Epson seem awfully quiet on the topic.


See *this post*.


----------



## Sakic

I’m sure this has been answered but every time I search I can only find results for people looking to buy a new screen.
Does anywhere in the 5050ub menu tell you what screen size you are currently projecting?


----------



## Venue

fredworld said:


> See *this post*.


That's cool, thanks!
No history log, though? Like some manufacturers, or mostly all, would post on their websites, what each and every update did in terms of correction/improvement?
Guess I need to have a chat with Epson!


----------



## DaGamePimp

Sakic said:


> I’m sure this has been answered but every time I search I can only find results for people looking to buy a new screen.
> Does anywhere in the 5050ub menu tell you what screen size you are currently projecting?


That would be interesting but how would the 5050 know your current throw distance (even if it had a sensor that was tracking optical lens adjustments, which it does not).

It does not have the tech inside to do that.

- Jason


----------



## fredworld

Sakic said:


> I’m sure this has been answered but every time I search I can only find results for people looking to buy a new screen.
> Does anywhere in the 5050ub menu tell you what screen size you are currently projecting?





DaGamePimp said:


> That would be interesting but how would the 5050 know your current throw distance (even if it had a sensor that was tracking optical lens adjustments, which it does not).
> 
> It does not have the tech inside to do that.
> 
> - Jason


I think the only thing to do would be to resize and then RENAME LENS MEMORY positions for specific image perimeters. One can then call up a specific image size to project.


----------



## hondakilla98

I ordered my 5050UB today to replace a 5030UB with about 20k hours on it. I'm wondering if I should get a new ceiling mount. I have a 105" screen about 12' from the lens, The projector is centered left to right and the bottom of the lens is level with the top of the screen. My current projector is about 12" from the ceiling, it would be nice to get the 5050 closer to the ceiling.


----------



## rekbones

hondakilla98 said:


> I ordered my 5050UB today to replace a 5030UB with about 20k hours on it. I'm wondering if I should get a new ceiling mount. I have a 105" screen about 12' from the lens, The projector is centered left to right and the bottom of the lens is level with the top of the screen. My current projector is about 12" from the ceiling, it would be nice to get the 5050 closer to the ceiling.


The 5030 and 5050 have virtually identical shift/zoom range. The 5050 is a much larger projector so check to make sure it doesn't exceed the weight limit on your current mount. You have enough shift range in either projector to move them closer to the ceiling so if the current mount can't be altered to move closer or isn't rated for the 5050 then get a new one.


----------



## killakobe81

chicodang said:


> I really like my 45es, it will remain my backup in case of issue for sure.


I made the same jump last year the 45 ES was great but started to develop some flicker. I actually have an extra lamp for it I need to sell. But the 5050 is better except Sony was more quiet. I gamed and watchd movies on both including 3D both are good choices but I moved to 4k in my living room wanted something close in my theater room.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk


----------



## hondakilla98

rekbones said:


> The 5030 and 5050 have virtually identical shift/zoom range. The 5050 is a much larger projector so check to make sure it doesn't exceed the weight limit on your current mount. You have enough shift range in either projector to move them closer to the ceiling so if the current mount can't be altered to move closer or isn't rated for the 5050 then get a new one.


Good point on the mount. My current mount is barely adequate for the 5030, so I ordered a Peerless PRG-UNV. I'm excited to see the difference in picture, and get it closer to the ceiling. Now I'm hoping my current HDMI cable will support HDR. It's 30' and run up the wall and through the attic. It's been around since I bought my 8350 in 2010.


----------



## rekbones

hondakilla98 said:


> Good point on the mount. My current mount is barely adequate for the 5030, so I ordered a Peerless PRG-UNV. I'm excited to see the difference in picture, and get it closer to the ceiling. Now I'm hoping my current HDMI cable will support HDR. It's 30' and run up the wall and through the attic. It's been around since I bought my 8350 in 2010.


All you can do is try it but chances are fairly slim it will work.


----------



## Venue

Is there anything brighter than the Epson, at similar noise levels (dB) with similar, or slightly worse/better black levels, at around the same price, give or take?
Is there any DLP projector that is competitive enough, without a color wheel?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Venue said:


> Is there anything brighter than the Epson, at similar noise levels (dB) with similar, or slightly worse/better black levels, at around the same price, give or take?
> Is there any DLP projector that is competitive enough, without a color wheel?


You're asking in the owners thread so we are all going to be a bit biased lol.

Short answer. No.

Long answer. There is most certainly something brighter and quiet. But nothing that will be brighter *and* better or similar black levels. Because there's nothing within the price range that has better or similar black levels regardless of brightness. The 5050 is regarded as having one of the best bright modes out there in this price range. All the DLP projectors will have worse black levels. When you add more lumens to compete with the Epson's brightness they all lose color fidelity and raise black levels so high, no one would call them "black". I'm trying to rack my brain for something that would be as bright, have decent black levels and that is even close to the same price range and I can't. If you throw out black levels then sure. But, not all 3.


----------



## chicodang

Just received my 5050 today. I watched Dr Strange, very happy with my purchase.
i have an issue with the remote, the left right arrow are very sensitive. For example, on the hdr slider, I did some testing and 60-70% of the time, instead of going + or - 1, I was going + or - 2. It happened more with the +2. I tried pressing very softly but still the issue persist.

i would like to know if somebody had the issue as well?
The projector is brand new so I will call the store where I bought it to see if he can get me a other remote or I will need to call Epson.
Regards
Dan


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> You're asking in the owners thread so we are all going to be a bit biased lol.
> 
> Short answer. No.
> 
> Long answer. There is most certainly something brighter and quiet. But nothing that will be brighter *and* better or similar black levels. Because there's nothing within the price range that has better or similar black levels regardless of brightness. The 5050 is regarded as having one of the best bright modes out there in this price range. All the DLP projectors will have worse black levels. When you add more lumens to compete with the Epson's brightness they all lose color fidelity and raise black levels so high, no one would call them "black". I'm trying to rack my brain for something that would be as bright, have decent black levels and that is even close to the same price range and I can't. If you throw out black levels then sure. But, not all 3.


Sorry @PixelPusher15 , but I gotta disagree here!

The LG HU810P is a great alternative option to the Epson if you don't need absolutely best blacks, or 3D. It has received excellent reviews for image quality, and is considered to be a wash when compared to the Epson 5050ub, with each one winning in different areas. It is a dual laser DLP with no color wheel (that doesn't mean zero rainbows though, just less of the effect). It is priced right at the same as the 5050ub most days.
I had one on pre-order up until my Epson arrived. I decided I couldn't justify receiving both, even with a 30-day window.
Here are some highlights good and bad:

One of the main things for me that went in favor of the Epson is the 3D potential, the LG won't do 3D
The LG though, has dynamic tone mapping built in, which is HUGE, and apparently it's a decent implementation, if not earth-shatteringly good.
It also has a laser light engine, so ~20,000 hours of life on that = probably will last the entire time most of us would intend on owning a projector.
Also the light path is more or less a "sealed" enclosure (as are most laser DLP systems) so much less chance for dust to enter the path and cause "blobs"
2700 rated lumens, reviews indicate it's right there with the Epson in brightness, if not better.
Contrast on par with the Epson
"full" 4k (2160x3840) pixels on screen.... debatable if this offers an improvement over the Epson, since its still a pixel-shifting solution.
Blacks very good but not quite as good as Epson, but indistinguishable if you don't have a full black theater room.
Lens shift is not as extensive as Epson (nothing is).
Chassis is smaller, can operate at higher temperature.
Built-in smart TV (LG's popular WebOS) some like this, I don't care as I use smart set top boxes (xbox, android/sheild, etc.)
The LG is showing a few growing pains though, with some early adopters experiencing some issues with build quality (lens shift is strangely inconsistent, and the lens hood leaks light onto the immediate area (ceiling in many pictures). Plenty of discussion on all these in the owners thread I linked above.
I did decide to go with the Epson, but it was a tough choice. I think the LG is a VERY compelling solution at this price point. It came down to the fact that I had the Epson in hand, while the LG was still on pre-order, and I really wanted 3D. If the LG had arrived first, I don't know what I would have done.


----------



## jaredmwright

I do wonder if the next generation projector's will be start to be more laser vs bulb, based on the improvements being made. Not having a bulb to worry about, less heat and more consistency seems like all positive attributes. I have the 6050 and am very happy. I would like DTM and occasionally use 3D so those are wish list items for me for my next device which, but that won't be for at least 3 years unless something fails. 

The picture of the 6050 is really impressive in a light treated room for the price range.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

Agreed! 
As I said in a few posts in the LG thread, it's all a series of trade-offs, and what is important to the individual. Both are amazing projectors at a very compelling price.
I'm not sure if a laser LE would work with Epson's 3LCD system, but who knows! 
DTM is definitely a must-have for Epson's next generation though. If they don't include this, they are just losing the race right out of the gate.
I doubt they will get true 4k out of LCD. They would have to make the jump to LCoS.
So I'm betting the next gen will be another iteration of their shifted 1080p 3LCD system, with DTM, and maybe if technically feasible, a laser source.


----------



## Venue

Kieran said:


> I'm not sure if a laser LE would work with Epson's 3LCD system, but who knows!
> DTM is definitely a must-have for Epson's next generation though. If they don't include this, they are just losing the race right out of the gate.
> I doubt they will get true 4k out of LCD. They would have to make the jump to LCoS.


Why? Epson has true 4K laser 3LCD projectors, but not in the segment targeted for home cinema, they're targeted for larger venues, the tech just need to trickle down, I think.


----------



## sddawson

chicodang said:


> Just received my 5050 today. I watched Dr Strange, very happy with my purchase.
> i have an issue with the remote, the left right arrow are very sensitive. For example, on the hdr slider, I did some testing and 60-70% of the time, instead of going + or - 1, I was going + or - 2. It happened more with the +2. I tried pressing very softly but still the issue persist.
> 
> i would like to know if somebody had the issue as well?
> The projector is brand new so I will call the store where I bought it to see if he can get me a other remote or I will need to call Epson.
> Regards
> Dan


Same here. Even using a Logitech Harmony remote and playing with command repeats etc, I can never get it to reliably move only one click.


----------



## Venue

For those of you that have the Epson 6050UB/TW9400 with the HDR10 slider, do you, or would you, find the addition of a Panasonic DP-UB820 useful over other players?
I'm talking about the Panasonic's capability of adjusting the static tone mapping to a better extent on a title-to-title basis, than having to manually set the slider in the Epson.
More convenience, of sorts, perhaps the addtional feature of being able to convert HDR content to SDR2020 could be seen as an added bonus?
Some of you, any of you, that have tried this, and compared to the Epson's own set of controls?


----------



## chicodang

sddawson said:


> Same here. Even using a Logitech Harmony remote and playing with command repeats etc, I can never get it to reliably move only one click.


Thanks for the reply, I tried other parameter changer like picture contrast for example and no issue there, so maybe only on some parameters like the hdr slider.
thanks for the reply !!!


----------



## Luminated67

Venue said:


> For those of you that have the Epson 6050UB/TW9400 with the HDR10 slider, do you, or would you, find the addition of a Panasonic DP-UB820 useful over other players?
> I'm talking about the Panasonic's capability of adjusting the static tone mapping to a better extent on a title-to-title basis, than having to manually set the slider in the Epson.
> More convenience, of sorts, perhaps the addtional feature of being able to convert HDR content to SDR2020 could be seen as an added bonus?
> Some of you, any of you, that have tried this, and compared to the Epson's own set of controls?


I find the Panasonic a great addition because it has static tonal mapping, something the Epson doesn't have itself but I am sure other brands have it too.


----------



## sianofabio

Venue said:


> For those of you that have the Epson 6050UB/TW9400 with the HDR10 slider, do you, or would you, find the addition of a Panasonic DP-UB820 useful over other players?
> I'm talking about the Panasonic's capability of adjusting the static tone mapping to a better extent on a title-to-title basis, than having to manually set the slider in the Epson.
> More convenience, of sorts, perhaps the addtional feature of being able to convert HDR content to SDR2020 could be seen as an added bonus?
> Some of you, any of you, that have tried this, and compared to the Epson's own set of controls?


I have used both and the epson gives me a more detailed and more colorfull image most of the time. the only problem with the epson was the tendency to blown highlights but problem was fixed when i realized my setting was on 16-235. as soon as i changed it to 0-255 (superwhite) no MORE blown highlights.
The other most important problem with the hdr slider is the blown shadows (becomes too bright), and the fix is in the gamma (custom). you bring the second adjustment point to -7 and the rest at -2 and you get the perfect balance of shadow and highlights.


----------



## Venue

Luminated67 said:


> I find the Panasonic a great addition because it has static tonal mapping, something the Epson doesn't have itself but I am sure other brands have it too.


Isn't the HDR10 slider in the Epson considered to be static tone mapping? I mean you're basically just lifting/reducing a static tone mapping curve with the slider, right?


----------



## Luminated67

Venue said:


> Isn't the HDR10 slider in the Epson considered to be static tone mapping? I mean you're basically just lifting/reducing a static tone mapping curve with the slider, right?


It is but unlike the Panasonic it don't read the info from the disc so you might have to adjust the slider from disc to disc, with the Panasonic I can leave the Epson's slider as is and no matter the disc it looks right. It's not as good as JVC's dynamic tonal mapping but I'm more than happy with the results I'm getting.

For example prior to getting the Panasonic I was using my Sony X700 for both bluray and UHD bluray, I was for yet tweaking the slider but since getting the Panasonic I don't need to, though the only issue with the Panasonic is that it looks at the display unit (the Epson) and automatically upscales all material to 4K and in my opinion the Epson does a better job of upscaling than it so I now use the Sony x700 for all my regular 1080P watching and only use the Panasonic for UHD stuff.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Sorry @PixelPusher15 , but I gotta disagree here!
> 
> The LG HU810P is a great alternative option to the Epson if you don't need absolutely best blacks, or 3D. It has received excellent reviews for image quality, and is considered to be a wash when compared to the Epson 5050ub, with each one winning in different areas. It is a dual laser DLP with no color wheel (that doesn't mean zero rainbows though, just less of the effect). It is priced right at the same as the 5050ub most days.
> I had one on pre-order up until my Epson arrived. I decided I couldn't justify receiving both, even with a 30-day window.
> Here are some highlights good and bad:
> 
> One of the main things for me that went in favor of the Epson is the 3D potential, the LG won't do 3D
> The LG though, has dynamic tone mapping built in, which is HUGE, and apparently it's a decent implementation, if not earth-shatteringly good.
> It also has a laser light engine, so ~20,000 hours of life on that = probably will last the entire time most of us would intend on owning a projector.
> Also the light path is more or less a "sealed" enclosure (as are most laser DLP systems) so much less chance for dust to enter the path and cause "blobs"
> 2700 rated lumens, reviews indicate it's right there with the Epson in brightness, if not better.
> Contrast on par with the Epson
> "full" 4k (2160x3840) pixels on screen.... debatable if this offers an improvement over the Epson, since its still a pixel-shifting solution.
> Blacks very good but not quite as good as Epson, but indistinguishable if you don't have a full black theater room.
> Lens shift is not as extensive as Epson (nothing is).
> Chassis is smaller, can operate at higher temperature.
> Built-in smart TV (LG's popular WebOS) some like this, I don't care as I use smart set top boxes (xbox, android/sheild, etc.)
> The LG is showing a few growing pains though, with some early adopters experiencing some issues with build quality (lens shift is strangely inconsistent, and the lens hood leaks light onto the immediate area (ceiling in many pictures). Plenty of discussion on all these in the owners thread I linked above.
> I did decide to go with the Epson, but it was a tough choice. I think the LG is a VERY compelling solution at this price point. It came down to the fact that I had the Epson in hand, while the LG was still on pre-order, and I really wanted 3D. If the LG had arrived first, I don't know what I would have done.


Hey, I did say I was biased! lol

But, I was putting an emphasis on the "is there anything brighter" portion of the question. The LG can't really compete unless it is put in it's high brightness modes, as tested by Projector Reviews:

LG:








Epson:









Look at the color temp on those bright modes from the LG. Just not nearly as usable as the Epson. I'm using the Epson in a light-controlled room and have it on Eco and the Iris at -15 and it's plenty bright for SDR. This is on a 120" screen from 13', but the screen is light silver spandex and probably has a gain of 0.6...at best! Now the LG does in fact look to be a quiet projector so in its highest power mode it should be able to compete with the medium power mode on the Epson and probably be quieter. The Epson is straight-up loud in its high-power mode. Without seeing the LG I just can't imagine it having comparable black levels in its brighter modes after seeing an LG HU70LA and HT3550 in my theater. One is the baby brother, ok...tiny brother, to the 810P, and the other having some of the best black levels of a DLP projector due to its dynamic Iris. If @Venue was asking for a dark theater room then I don't think the LG offers more other than laser, sharpness, and DTM. Which DTM is a big deal and I agree that is what Epson _needs_ to do in the 5060. If you are picking for a living room or media room where complete light control isn't feasible then I think the LG is a very worthwhile consideration.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Venue said:


> Why? Epson has true 4K laser 3LCD projectors, but not in the segment targeted for home cinema, they're targeted for larger venues, the tech just need to trickle down, I think.


Unless something has changed the only native 4k LCD projector they have is an $82k bad boy and it just came out I think last year. It's gonna be a long while before the trickles down. This has been discussed in a few threads around here. If they go native 4k it will narrow the pixel gap and raise the black floor, losing a lot of their big advantage over DLP. Also, the panels for native 4k are larger, which are more expensive by themselves but also require an entirely new light path and lens design which will again raise costs a lot. Again, it's going to be while for all of that to trickle down.

Now, what may trickle down is Epson's LCoQ (liquid crystal on quartz) tech that was used on the LS10000 and LS10500. These compete with the JVCs and Sony's on black levels since it is almost the exact same tech, swapping silicon for quartz. They could theoretically make a native 4k LCoQ projector some time soon, but considering the price point of the Sonys and JVCs, I don't see them putting that in a 5060 next year. DTM and laser are probably the most we can hope for in a 5060. I see them revving the LS10500, and growing that line until it can all trickle down.


----------



## PixelPusher15

sianofabio said:


> I have used both and the epson gives me a more detailed and more colorfull image most of the time. the only problem with the epson was the tendency to blown highlights but problem was fixed when i realized my setting was on 16-235. as soon as i changed it to 0-255 (superwhite) no MORE blown highlights.
> The other most important problem with the hdr slider is the blown shadows (becomes too bright), and the fix is in the gamma (custom). you bring the second adjustment point to -7 and the rest at -2 and you get the perfect balance of shadow and highlights.


This seems very wrong fwiw. I can't really explain why since I don't know all the details here but here is an article on limited vs full and a quote from it below: RGB: Full vs. Limited – ReferenceHT



> With HDR video, the good news is that you don’t need to worry about RGB Limited and RGB Full. Unlike SDR, HDR has code values that correspond to exact brightness values on-screen, and the encoding of it is designed around what is humanly perceptible. Also, by using 10-bits instead of 8-bits and assigning half of those bits for what is traditionally the SDR range of images, it has far more data than an RGB Full range image would have to essentially eliminate banding unless the banding is part of the source (due to limited storage space and bitrate issues).
> 
> Because of this, you don’t need to worry about selecting RGB Limited or Full with HDR, it will effectively ignore this choice since it doesn’t apply to HDR content. Though we still recommend using RGB Limited for SDR content for the reasons outlined in this article.


I think you are essentially hacking the settings to prevent crushed/blown details. A proper calibration would alleviate the need to do this. But hey, if you are enjoying the picture then keep on keepin' on!


----------



## fredworld

chicodang said:


> Just received my 5050 today. I watched Dr Strange, very happy with my purchase.
> i have an issue with the remote, the left right arrow are very sensitive. For example, on the hdr slider, I did some testing and 60-70% of the time, instead of going + or - 1, I was going + or - 2. It happened more with the +2. I tried pressing very softly but still the issue persist.
> 
> i would like to know if somebody had the issue as well?
> The projector is brand new so I will call the store where I bought it to see if he can get me a other remote or I will need to call Epson.
> Regards
> Dan


Try aiming the remote slightly off axis to the screen. I found thagt there's a "sweet spot" that works well.


----------



## Venue

Wow, you guys are amazing, thanks for all the information, my friend will appreciate all of this, thank you!


----------



## Kieran

Venue said:


> Why? Epson has true 4K laser 3LCD projectors, but not in the segment targeted for home cinema, they're targeted for larger venues, the tech just need to trickle down, I think.


I suppose it's possible, just not probable, that they will make their UB feature/tech work with 3LCD 4k. But would love to be proven wrong!


----------



## gunlife

Kieran said:


> I suppose it's possible, just not probable, that they will make their UB feature/tech work with 3LCD 4k. But would love to be proven wrong!


My thoughts as well. Just don't see 4k panels happening. Best case scenario is a LS10500 but with the brightness of the 5050. I think it could be done for around the 3k mark. Remember JVC had their 540 model at 4,000 for a year or two. I thought they were just dumping old stock at first, but then they did another run of them so it must have been worth it. That did NOT have laser though.

So I guess my question is this???? If we can get LCoQ bulb only? OR Modified 5050 with laser? Which would you prefer? I personally take bulb any day of the week.

And of course it MUST have dynamic tone mapping.


----------



## Venue

gunlife said:


> And of course it MUST have dynamic tone mapping.


Indeed, otherwise no point in releasing something new, emphasis on 'new'.


----------



## PixelPusher15

gunlife said:


> My thoughts as well. Just don't see 4k panels happening. Best case scenario is a LS10500 but with the brightness of the 5050. I think it could be done for around the 3k mark. Remember JVC had their 540 model at 4,000 for a year or two. I thought they were just dumping old stock at first, but then they did another run of them so it must have been worth it. That did NOT have laser though.
> 
> So I guess my question is this???? If we can get LCoQ bulb only? OR Modified 5050 with laser? Which would you prefer? I personally take bulb any day of the week.
> 
> And of course it MUST have dynamic tone mapping.


Geez, if they gave us pixel shifting LCoQ with a bulb and DTM for $3000-3500, it would for sure be a smashing success. Even that at $4k I would think would sell like hotcakes. Us "cheapos" would be waiting for the $3000 refurb version lol. 

I feel like they could deliver 4 projectors that would be massively successful if they wanted to shake up their lineup

$2299: 4020UB, with LCD pixel shifting panels and DTM (essentially the 5050, maybe they handicap it in some way)
$3299: 5060AB with LCoQ pixel shifter with DTM and a bulb
$4299: 7060AB with LCoQ pixel shifter laser with DTM and 3000 lumens
$5999: LS11000AB with native 4k LCoQ, DTM, and a 4000 lumen laser
AB is Epson's moniker for their Absolute Black LCoQ panels


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## Luminated67

^I like your thinking though I doubt it will ever come to pass... well any time soon.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Luminated67 said:


> ^I like your thinking though I doubt it will ever come to pass... well any time soon.


Yeah the more I think about it a 4020UB probably doesn't make sense if they keep the 3800 at $1800. Only $500 between their regular LCD and UB panels would make the 3800 almost irrelevant for a lot of people. Maybe the a 4020UB at $2499 would make more sense. But, then it's getting close to my theoretical 5060AB. Hmmm, I just hope they do something with LCoQ that's exciting. They have the tech and resources and I think the market is missing an "affordable" LCoQ/LCoS projector at the sub $4k price point. Half 4K with deep blacks has a lot to offer.


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## Kieran

Did someone imply a bulb is superior to a two (or more) laser LE? Why/how?


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Yeah the more I think about it a 4020UB probably doesn't make sense if they keep the 3800 at $1800. Only $500 between their regular LCD and UB panels would make the 3800 almost irrelevant for a lot of people. Maybe the a 4020UB at $2499 would make more sense. But, then it's getting close to my theoretical 5060AB. Hmmm, I just hope they do something with LCoQ that's exciting. They have the tech and resources and I think the market is missing an "affordable" LCoQ/LCoS projector at the sub $4k price point. Half 4K with deep blacks has a lot to offer.


So is LCoQ capable of better blacks/contrast than 3LCD? Just wondering what the benefit is in moving to LCoQ. Is a 4k LCoQ option in the cards?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> So is LCoQ capable of better blacks/contrast than 3LCD? Just wondering what the benefit is in moving to LCoQ. Is a 4k LCoQ option in the cards?


LCoQ is pretty much the same tech as JVCs and Sony’s LCoS, or D-ILA and SXRD respectively. The LS10500, which is laser and LCoQ is pretty comparable to JVC’s black levels based on what reviews I’ve seen. So yeah, it’s better than 3LCD. Since JVC and Sony can do native 4K LCoS, I’m assuming Epson can do the same with LCoQ. 

Ok, too many acronyms for one post.


----------



## reechings

Yeah tricky times right now thinking about getting a new projector in the not too distant future. The refurb 5050s aren't that much cheaper than what I could get them for new a couple years ago so I feel like I should just wait for the new model. Of course that has no guaranteed release date especially with covid-19 so who knows how long the wait could be.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

I think part of the success of the LS series with regards to its contrast and blacks was the laser. Not sure what bulb version of this projector would be capable of, possibly not much better than the current 6050?

JVC seem to have some trick only they know because even the Sony projectors don’t get close.


----------



## Pretorian

sianofabio said:


> I have used both and the epson gives me a more detailed and more colorfull image most of the time. the only problem with the epson was the tendency to blown highlights but problem was fixed when i realized my setting was on 16-235. as soon as i changed it to 0-255 (superwhite) no MORE blown highlights.
> The other most important problem with the hdr slider is the blown shadows (becomes too bright), and the fix is in the gamma (custom). you bring the second adjustment point to -7 and the rest at -2 and you get the perfect balance of shadow and highlights.


I am not sure what my setting is but I get very much blown out whites when trying Spears and Munsil. Maybe this is the setting I have missed?


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## Pretorian

How are you using this option?
Image Processing: adjusts how images are processed; select Fast to display images quicker; select Fine to display images in higher quality; the Fast setting disables all image adjustment features.


----------



## Kieran

Pretorian said:


> How are you using this option?
> Image Processing: adjusts how images are processed; select Fast to display images quicker; select Fine to display images in higher quality; the Fast setting disables all image adjustment features.


I assumed that fast/fine was for gaming vs everything else? e.g. fast for gaming/low lag?


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> I assumed that fast/fine was for gaming vs everything else? e.g. fast for gaming/low lag?


FWIW, back in July 2019 I was troubleshooting with an Epson tech regarding minimizing JUDDER issues. I was advised to try different settings of the Frame Interpolation and was told, "Basically you have to be sending a 1080p signal at 24Hz... and the 'Image Processing' must be set to 'Fine', so you would have to make sure to turn off the 4K enhancement feature." 

This was the only time, that I can recall, I saw why the FINE setting was needed. So, I left it on FINE. I don't game.


----------



## gunlife

Luminated67 said:


> I think part of the success of the LS series with regards to its contrast and blacks was the laser. Not sure what bulb version of this projector would be capable of, possibly not much better than the current 6050?
> 
> JVC seem to have some trick only they know because even the Sony projectors don’t get close.



No it wasn't just the laser. It was measured at 16000-20000-1 contrast rating without laser dimming. Lcoq just allows much higher contrast ratios. You can cut out more stray light I assume. Also going with Lcoq makes the pixel gap much much thinner which would help if they stayed with pixel shift. The biggest problem with the LS series was the brightness was subpar and it was to early in the 4k game to have usable tone mapping. Other wise it seems to have held its own against Sony or JVC. I don't know if the Lcoq cuts light output bigtime or not. Epson knows 5050 is so popular because of its brightness so I can't imagine they would launch a new model without it being 2500+ lumens.


----------



## giraffejumper

Just noticed a newer firmware that came out last week.
Anyone tried it yet?


----------



## Kieran

giraffejumper said:


> Just noticed a newer firmware that came out last week.
> Anyone tried it yet?


I installed my new 5050 last week, and it installed that firmware version. I never tried anything else. So I don't have any reference. But yes, technically I've tried it!


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> I installed my new 5050 last week, and it installed that firmware version. I never tried anything else. So I don't have any reference. But yes, technically I've tried it!





giraffejumper said:


> View attachment 3118049
> 
> Just noticed a newer firmware that came out last week.
> Anyone tried it yet?


See *this post*.


----------



## PixelPusher15

I thought 1.04 was current....


----------



## giraffejumper

That's apparently how long it's been since I've checked in with the forum lol.
I've been running 1.03 since last July or whenever and randomly checked the website.
Thanks for the info!
I was hoping it had some kind of awesome pq update or some cool dynamic tone mapping like the JVCs got with an update.
Wishful thinking.
I'll install this ASAP


----------



## nikolindb

Does this look normal accuracy to you guys? I have noticed from up close that there is some "blooming" in text for example. So it's really not as crisp as I would hope. Using a 92" Grandview flat edge series screen and Epson 6050ub. 

Only really see it from couple feet from screen.


----------



## sddawson

chicodang said:


> Thanks for the reply, I tried other parameter changer like picture contrast for example and no issue there, so maybe only on some parameters like the hdr slider.
> thanks for the reply !!!


Yep, I only see the problem using the HDR slider - probably one of the most important to be able to nudge only one click!


----------



## nusilver

nikolindb said:


> Does this look normal accuracy to you guys? I have noticed from up close that there is some "blooming" in text for example. So it's really not as crisp as I would hope. Using a 92" Grandview flat edge series screen and Epson 6050ub.
> 
> Only really see it from couple feet from screen.
> 
> View attachment 3118241


If you read/watch reviews, the general consensus is that text will appear softer from up close, and I can certainly attest to this being the case on my 5050UBe. That said, from a normal viewing distance (14 feet from my 110" screen), I don't notice it at all, and you won't likely notice it either.


----------



## nusilver

I've been really enjoying my 5050UBe and am still dialing in my preferred settings using a combination of the 5050UBe's basic gamma adjustments, the HDR slider, and the interplay between the Vertex 2 and my OPPO 203. I'm generally very happy with the whole thing, but the brightest whites are still pretty blown out (I'm talking the stuff you only see for a few seconds total in any 4K/HDR movie, like when Gandalf the White first shows up in TTT.) 

*Can anyone attest to there being a benefit to adding a Panasonic 820 to my home theater and relegating the OPPO to the living room OLED?* 

The Panny can't force DV and, from what I can tell, it can't reliably play MKVs off of a hard drive (for the rare occasion I might want to watch, say, 4K77 or my custom mux of Antoine & Colette using the audio from the Criterion DVD and the video from the region B Blu-ray)... but if its HDR optimizer can dial back the blowout in those brightest brights while retaining everything else, I'd seriously consider picking one up in the next few days. I'd love to swing for a 9000 just for the build quality alone (it looks just as sturdy as my OPPO), but that extra $500 is probably best served on building permits as I continue work on my home theater.


----------



## nikolindb

nusilver said:


> If you read/watch reviews, the general consensus is that text will appear softer from up close, and I can certainly attest to this being the case on my 5050UBe. That said, from a normal viewing distance (14 feet from my 110" screen), I don't notice it at all, and you won't likely notice it either.


Yeah, I don't really see it from actual viewing distance. Was just wandering if what I have is within normal range of softness and not something I can still improve somehow.


----------



## Kieran

nusilver said:


> *Can anyone attest to there being a benefit to adding a Panasonic 820 to my home theater and relegating the OPPO to the living room OLED?*
> 
> The Panny can't force DV and, from what I can tell, it can't reliably play MKVs off of a hard drive (for the rare occasion I might want to watch, say, 4K77 or my custom mux of Antoine & Colette using the audio from the Criterion DVD and the video from the region B Blu-ray)... but if its HDR optimizer can dial back the blowout in those brightest brights while retaining everything else, I'd seriously consider picking one up in the next few days. I'd love to swing for a 9000 just for the build quality alone (it looks just as sturdy as my OPPO), but that extra $500 is probably best served on building permits as I continue work on my home theater.


OOOHHH I hadn't checked on 4k77 since a long time (ago...), and didn't realize it was finished! I'll have to acquire that ASAP. How's it look? Now I'm excited. 
Build quality... I'm going to miss my OPPO bdp-83! It served me well. Time to move on to 4k though, and the 203 isn't made any more. I picked up a Sony x800m2 because it can force DV.


----------



## sianofabio

nusilver said:


> I've been really enjoying my 5050UBe and am still dialing in my preferred settings using a combination of the 5050UBe's basic gamma adjustments, the HDR slider, and the interplay between the Vertex 2 and my OPPO 203. I'm generally very happy with the whole thing, but the brightest whites are still pretty blown out (I'm talking the stuff you only see for a few seconds total in any 4K/HDR movie, like when Gandalf the White first shows up in TTT.)
> 
> *Can anyone attest to there being a benefit to adding a Panasonic 820 to my home theater and relegating the OPPO to the living room OLED?*
> 
> The Panny can't force DV and, from what I can tell, it can't reliably play MKVs off of a hard drive (for the rare occasion I might want to watch, say, 4K77 or my custom mux of Antoine & Colette using the audio from the Criterion DVD and the video from the region B Blu-ray)... but if its HDR optimizer can dial back the blowout in those brightest brights while retaining everything else, I'd seriously consider picking one up in the next few days. I'd love to swing for a 9000 just for the build quality alone (it looks just as sturdy as my OPPO), but that extra $500 is probably best served on building permits as I continue work on my home theater.


Settings-advance-color range
Make sure it’s on Full (0-250)


----------



## Cacitems4sale

sddawson said:


> Same here. Even using a Logitech Harmony remote and playing with command repeats etc, I can never get it to reliably move only one click.


I have the same issue with the Logitech harmony when using commands on the projector, so not sure if the issue is related to yours.


----------



## fredworld

Cacitems4sale said:


> I have the same issue with the Logitech harmony when using commands on the projector, so not sure if the issue is related to yours.


As I posted a few days ago, try aiming the remote slightly off axis to the screen. I found that there's a "sweet spot" that works well.


----------



## nusilver

sianofabio said:


> Settings-advance-color range
> Make sure it’s on Full (0-250)


What are you referring to here, specifically? Setting RGB to full to avoid HDR blowouts?
There are a lot of components in my setup and I’m asking if there’s a benefit to adding one of the Panasonic players to it in place of my OPPO, and whether the 820/9000 play well with the Vertex 2.


----------



## msankadi

Hi

I never hear the fans on my Epson 6050 coming up... I mostly use it on eco or medium so i can understand it is not being stressed that much.. However even when I shut it down I never hear the fan staying on

I just want to confirm i am doing this right... I have to press the button to the right of the power on button twice to shut down right?

Also, is there anything to worry if I don't hear the fans coming on? The light is always blue so I don't think the temperature is getting high, just want to confirm though 

Sent from my RMX2081 using Tapatalk


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## Khar00f

I just setup my new Epson 5050UB with a new AVR (SONY STR-DN1080), I connected my Xbox Series X to it and it says it supports HDR only for video but not gaming?

What am I doing wrong? Using an HDMI 2.0 cable.

Also I can't seem to find an answer to this, the blank button on the remote what does it do?

Does it leave it on without an image so that it doesn't count hrs used on the bulb or it has no effect on bulb life? Trying to understand what's the purpose and what situations I would want to us that in.

Thank you for any assistance,


----------



## fredworld

Khar00f said:


> I just setup my new Epson 5050UB with a new AVR (SONY STR-DN1080), I connected my Xbox Series X to it and it says it supports HDR only for video but not gaming?
> 
> What am I doing wrong? Using an HDMI 2.0 cable.
> 
> Also I can't seem to find an answer to this, the blank button on the remote what does it do?
> 
> Does it leave it on without an image so that it doesn't count hrs used on the bulb or it has no effect on bulb life? Trying to understand what's the purpose and what situations I would want to us that in.
> 
> Thank you for any assistance,


See pages 57 and 78 of the manual. It's a pdf document so you can search any word in it.
Sorry, can't help with the Xbox.


----------



## Khar00f

fredworld said:


> See pages 57 and 78 of the manual. It's a pdf document so you can search any word in it.
> Sorry, can't help with the Xbox.


Thx for the info, I did go through the manual, that's why I didn't ask if it turns off the lamp but instead asked if it affects lamp life, since nothing is projected maybe usage drops to 0 and barely affects life, then using this free would be much better than turning off and back after an hour if you're taking a break for lunch or something. Not sure if that makes sense.


I figured maybe it drops it to like something more efficient than eco mode.


----------



## fredworld

Khar00f said:


> Thx for the info, I did go through the manual, that's why I didn't ask if it turns off the lamp but instead asked if it affects lamp life, since nothing is projected maybe usage drops to 0 and barely affects life, then using this free would be much better than turning off and back after an hour if you're taking a break for lunch or something. Not sure if that makes sense.
> 
> 
> I figured maybe it drops it to like something more efficient than eco mode.


That's not my understanding from the manual. The lamp continues on, the PJ just blanks the image and any program continues unless you pause the source. Ask Epson. They've been very responsive for me.


----------



## RalphAggie

5050 with Elite screen 120" Ceiling mounted. Projector - screen ~15'
screen measures 104.5 x 58.5"
FireTV box
Denon AVR-X4400H 

Previously had a 5030 that this projector replaced and notice that the tilt down is much more severe on this projector. Should I adjust this and have the projector more parallel with floor/ceiling and try to adjust lens shift?

I have adjusted the test image (blue square) for lens shift so that the box lines up with the left and right sides but the top and bottom are short of the top/bottom of my screen by about 1.5" each (3" total)

For adjusting keystone -- Am I missing a way to see the test image when adjusting keystone. Seems kinda silly that you need to go into menu and back to see affect of change.

Best way to verify my HDMI cables are passing muster?


----------



## PixelPusher15

RalphAggie said:


> 5050 with Elite screen 120" Ceiling mounted. Projector - screen ~15'
> screen measures 104.5 x 58.5"
> FireTV box
> Denon AVR-X4400H
> 
> Previously had a 5030 that this projector replaced and notice that the tilt down is much more severe on this projector. Should I adjust this and have the projector more parallel with floor/ceiling and try to adjust lens shift?
> 
> I have adjusted the test image (blue square) for lens shift so that the box lines up with the left and right sides but the top and bottom are short of the top/bottom of my screen by about 1.5" each (3" total)
> 
> For adjusting keystone -- Am I missing a way to see the test image when adjusting keystone. Seems kinda silly that you need to go into menu and back to see affect of change.
> 
> Best way to verify my HDMI cables are passing muster?
> 
> 
> View attachment 3118871
> View attachment 3118873
> View attachment 3118874


There should be zero reason to use keystone with your setup as far as I can tell. You have the 5050 angled down waaay too much. It should be parallel with the ceiling and then use lens shift and rotation of the projector to get it all lined up.


----------



## RalphAggie

PixelPusher15 said:


> There should be zero reason to use keystone with your setup as far as I can tell. You have the 5050 angled down waaay too much. It should be parallel with the ceiling and then use lens shift and rotation of the projector to get it all lined up.


yep that did the trick. Guess I should have tried that first before asking.


----------



## nusilver

Kieran said:


> OOOHHH I hadn't checked on 4k77 since a long time (ago...), and didn't realize it was finished! I'll have to acquire that ASAP. How's it look? Now I'm excited.
> Build quality... I'm going to miss my OPPO bdp-83! It served me well. Time to move on to 4k though, and the 203 isn't made any more. I picked up a Sony x800m2 because it can force DV.


4K77 looks like a film print from 1977 (that’s a good thing.) It’s not as consistent as Disney’s 4K release, but the cleanest shots have far more detail than the disc release, which we all know is a joke. Most importantly, it _feels_ right. We have one of those Arcade1UP Star Wars cabs in our game room, which my 2.5 year old is a big fan of, and now that we have started putting our theater space together, he keeps asking to come out here so he can watch Luke blow up the Death Star on what he calls the big TV.

My wife was out here with him yesterday morning, watching Star Wars projected from our 5050, and after they came inside, she said to me, “you know... when we were kids, if our friends had this kind of set up at home, we would have called them the rich kids. (Our son) is going to grow up the rich kid.”

We’re not rich, but we do work very hard for what we have. I bought my 5050 refurbished, but the experience I’m getting with it at the center of our theater feels wildly extravagant. I don’t know where I’m going with this, but go find 4K77 (the grainy version, obviously) and have a blast with it! 4K83 is even better. Hope 4K80 is finished some day.


----------



## rekbones

Khar00f said:


> I just setup my new Epson 5050UB with a new AVR (SONY STR-DN1080), I connected my Xbox Series X to it and it says it supports HDR only for video but not gaming?
> 
> What am I doing wrong? Using an HDMI 2.0 cable.
> 
> Also I can't seem to find an answer to this, the blank button on the remote what does it do?
> 
> Does it leave it on without an image so that it doesn't count hrs used on the bulb or it has no effect on bulb life? Trying to understand what's the purpose and what situations I would want to us that in.
> 
> Thank you for any assistance,


Make sure Enhanced HDMI is enabled in both the projector and AVR. How long is your HDMI cable and if it's 15' or longer is it an "active" or "OPTICAL" cable? Just because it's rated for 2.0 doesn't guaranty it will work especially for long cables.


----------



## Luminated67

To all questioning which cable to buy, if 0-5 meters (up to 16ft) an ordinary copper HDMI cable should be fine but beyond this length do yourself a favour and buy an Optical HDMI cable, use the wealth of experience on here that will tell you it’s no worth skimping when it’s something that’s usually put through ducting in the wall/ceiling.


----------



## Khar00f

rekbones said:


> Make sure Enhanced HDMI is enabled in both the projector and AVR. How long is your HDMI cable and if it's 15' or longer is it an "active" or "OPTICAL" cable? Just because it's rated for 2.0 doesn't guaranty it will work especially for long cables.


I figured that my settings are good since it's getting HDR for video and because of that I thought the cable is good for games too since it's able to get HDR. That'st's I eliminated the cable as being the issue, I'll see if I can get a 50' optical after I double check my settings.

I'll also check if I get the same issue with the other consoles, so far I only tested the Xbox Series X.


----------



## rekbones

Khar00f said:


> I figured that my settings are good since it's getting HDR for video and because of that I thought the cable is good for games too since it's able to get HDR. That'st's I eliminated the cable as being the issue, I'll see if I can get a 50' optical after I double check my settings.
> 
> I'll also check if I get the same issue with the other consoles, so far I only tested the Xbox Series X.


Video running at 24hz doesn't require the full HDMI bandwidth even with HDR so assume nothing. Video games running at 60hz w/HDR requires full 18Gb bandwidth.


----------



## msankadi

msankadi said:


> Hi
> 
> I never hear the fans on my Epson 6050 coming up... I mostly use it on eco or medium so i can understand it is not being stressed that much.. However even when I shut it down I never hear the fan staying on
> 
> I just want to confirm i am doing this right... I have to press the button to the right of the power on button twice to shut down right?
> 
> Also, is there anything to worry if I don't hear the fans coming on? The light is always blue so I don't think the temperature is getting high, just want to confirm though
> 
> Sent from my RMX2081 using Tapatalk


Any thoughts? 

Sent from my RMX2081 using Tapatalk


----------



## ccampbell

Hey guys looking for some help and advice. I've owned my Epson 5050ub for a little over a year now, and I'm on my 4th one. The mother board keeps going out. The first time it went out they sent a refurbished one that lasted three weeks, and then they sent out a brand-new one, and it last seven months. I'm in the process of waiting for the next one to get here as I type. Epson I must say has great customer service as the have no problem fixing the issue but what happens when my warranty runs out I'm on my own. They said that no one else is having the problem I'm having. My home theater is running on two dedicated circuits and my projector is running off a Furman AC-215A compact Power Conditioner with auto-restting voltage protection. I can only think the next step would be to put the projector on a APC. Any help would be appreciated. This has been an awesome projector other than this one issue.


----------



## Khar00f

rekbones said:


> Make sure Enhanced HDMI is enabled in both the projector and AVR. How long is your HDMI cable and if it's 15' or longer is it an "active" or "OPTICAL" cable? Just because it's rated for 2.0 doesn't guaranty it will work especially for long cables.





rekbones said:


> Video running at 24hz doesn't require the full HDMI bandwidth even with HDR so assume nothing. Video games running at 60hz w/HDR requires full 18Gb bandwidth.


When I enabled enhanced HDMI on my AVR I was getting a black screen but sound was still working, I thought the console just didn't support it.

Now I'm thinking it is the cable, I ordered an optical HDMI 50' from Amazon, will get it at the end of the week, we'll see with that.


----------



## fredworld

ccampbell said:


> Hey guys looking for some help and advice. I've owned my Epson 5050ub for a little over a year now, and I'm on my 4th one. The mother board keeps going out. The first time it went out they sent a refurbished one that lasted three weeks, and then they sent out a brand-new one, and it last seven months. I'm in the process of waiting for the next one to get here as I type. Epson I must say has great customer service as the have no problem fixing the issue but what happens when my warranty runs out I'm on my own. They said that no one else is having the problem I'm having. My home theater is running on two dedicated circuits and my projector is running off a Furman AC-215A compact Power Conditioner with auto-restting voltage protection. I can only think the next step would be to put the projector on a APC. Any help would be appreciated. This has been an awesome projector other than this one issue.
> View attachment 3119089
> 
> View attachment 3119090


Three failed motherboards implies, to me, that something is amiss electrically outside of the 5050. Was the Furman involved with all the 5050's? If so, I'd consider getting that checked out, plus having an electrician check out the AC line for anomalies. Is your area prone to power surges?


----------



## ccampbell

fredworld said:


> Three failed motherboards implies, to me, that something is amiss electrically outside of the 5050. Was the Furman involved with all the 5050's? If so, I'd consider getting that checked out, plus having an electrician check out the AC line for anomalies. Is your area prone to power surges?


The Furman was new when the last one went out I replaced the old Furman with a new updated model. Most of the electrical is new in that area, but I will check it out. As for the power surges not really an issue this has been the only thing in the house that ever gets affected. I was thinking of capping off the lines in that box and run a new line going to the AV area to a APC just for the projector.


----------



## plain fan

Are positive it is the same board every time? Is it possible that other boards are going out? Just working to eliminate options.


----------



## ccampbell

Epson just says it's the mother board. It does the same thing as if the bulb goes out. It will start up and then immediately closes the lens and the fan runs wildly with no way to shut it down without unplugging it. And the blue power light flashes and the bulb light flashes orange. I changed the bulb to try it, and it still booted up the same way with the new bulb. Glad to see others not having this problem. Hopefully I will narrow down the issue quickly.


----------



## DaGamePimp

ccampbell said:


> Hey guys looking for some help and advice. I've owned my Epson 5050ub for a little over a year now, and I'm on my 4th one. The mother board keeps going out. The first time it went out they sent a refurbished one that lasted three weeks, and then they sent out a brand-new one, and it last seven months. I'm in the process of waiting for the next one to get here as I type. Epson I must say has great customer service as the have no problem fixing the issue but what happens when my warranty runs out I'm on my own. They said that no one else is having the problem I'm having. My home theater is running on two dedicated circuits and my projector is running off a Furman AC-215A compact Power Conditioner with auto-restting voltage protection. I can only think the next step would be to put the projector on a APC. Any help would be appreciated. This has been an awesome projector other than this one issue.
> View attachment 3119089
> 
> View attachment 3119090


Must be the... BOSE n' Strobes. 

For some reason I saw that pic and immediately had a "Step Brothers" song pop into my head... Boats n' X0's.

- Jason


----------



## rekbones

ccampbell said:


> Epson just says it's the mother board. It does the same thing as if the bulb goes out. It will start up and then immediately closes the lens and the fan runs wildly with no way to shut it down without unplugging it. And the blue power light flashes and the bulb light flashes orange. I changed the bulb to try it, and it still booted up the same way with the new bulb. Glad to see others not having this problem. Hopefully I will narrow down the issue quickly.


Doesn't sound like AC is an issue. How is the ventilation around the projector, is heat building up, is there a lot of dust plugging the filter as running on the warm side but not enough to shut it down could cause early component failure. One other source is ESD (electrostatic discharge), are you often getting sparks when you touch things in the room, get a humidifier if that's the case.


----------



## HTX^2steve

KK in CT said:


> No. I have two pretty long lag bolts on one side and that thing isn’t going anywhere. I watched a number of installer videos before I put it up and not one of them used more than the one side when bolting it up to the ceiling. Likely because the other side would just be held up by Sheetrock anyway and if you’re using good hardware it’s solid. The projector is decent size but it’s not 100 pounds. Here’s one of the videos I found in case you want one for reference as they’re using the exact mount in it:


A cable cover...that's cool...I guess a .25cent plastic part not included on the 5050ub...ugh.


----------



## jpbonadio

Kieran said:


> Sorry @PixelPusher15 , but I gotta disagree here!
> 
> The LG HU810P is a great alternative option to the Epson if you don't need absolutely best blacks, or 3D. It has received excellent reviews for image quality, and is considered to be a wash when compared to the Epson 5050ub, with each one winning in different areas. It is a dual laser DLP with no color wheel (that doesn't mean zero rainbows though, just less of the effect). It is priced right at the same as the 5050ub most days.
> I had one on pre-order up until my Epson arrived. I decided I couldn't justify receiving both, even with a 30-day window.
> Here are some highlights good and bad:
> 
> One of the main things for me that went in favor of the Epson is the 3D potential, the LG won't do 3D
> The LG though, has dynamic tone mapping built in, which is HUGE, and apparently it's a decent implementation, if not earth-shatteringly good.
> It also has a laser light engine, so ~20,000 hours of life on that = probably will last the entire time most of us would intend on owning a projector.
> Also the light path is more or less a "sealed" enclosure (as are most laser DLP systems) so much less chance for dust to enter the path and cause "blobs"
> 2700 rated lumens, reviews indicate it's right there with the Epson in brightness, if not better.
> *Contrast on par with the Epson*
> "full" 4k (2160x3840) pixels on screen.... debatable if this offers an improvement over the Epson, since its still a pixel-shifting solution.
> Blacks very good but not quite as good as Epson, *but indistinguishable if you don't have a full black theater room*.
> Lens shift is not as extensive as Epson (nothing is).
> Chassis is smaller, can operate at higher temperature.
> Built-in smart TV (LG's popular WebOS) some like this, I don't care as I use smart set top boxes (xbox, android/sheild, etc.)
> The LG is showing a few growing pains though, with some early adopters experiencing some issues with build quality (lens shift is strangely inconsistent, and the lens hood leaks light onto the immediate area (ceiling in many pictures). Plenty of discussion on all these in the owners thread I linked above.
> I did decide to go with the Epson, but it was a tough choice. I think the LG is a VERY compelling solution at this price point. It came down to the fact that I had the Epson in hand, while the LG was still on pre-order, and I really wanted 3D. If the LG had arrived first, I don't know what I would have done.


I'm late on the thread, but reading this I don't think the bolded parts are right. There's no way the contrast on the LG in on par with the Epson. You are probably comparing dynamic contrast on the LG vs native contrast on the Epson. But the Epson also has dynamic contrast.
Native vs native and dynamic vs dynamic, the Epson should always have a big gap over the LG. As for black levels, I believe that even on a non fully blacked room the better blacks of the Epson should be perceptible.

The LG seems like a great projector, but contrast and black levels are key advantages of the 5050/6050.


----------



## PixelPusher15

jpbonadio said:


> I'm late on the thread, but reading this I don't think the bolded parts are right. There's no way the contrast on the LG in on par with the Epson. You are probably comparing dynamic contrast on the LG vs native contrast on the Epson. But the Epson also has dynamic contrast.
> Native vs native and dynamic vs dynamic, the Epson should always have a big gap over the LG. As for black levels, I believe that even on a non fully blacked room the better blacks of the Epson should be perceptible.
> 
> The LG seems like a great projector, but contrast and black levels are key advantages of the 5050/6050.


I agree that the LG can't really compete with the Epson on contrast. But, for a living room projector, the point is rather moot. I agree with Kieran there. Here's a little study done by Projection Dream that shows what happens when you take a high contrast projector and compare it to a low one in various rooms. The TL;DR is that in an untreated room there's very little to no advantage for the high contrast projector above 1-2% ADL scenes.


----------



## coolhand

3D glasses?!??

Just ordered mine after stalking the refurb page for a mo or so. This will be my first time back to LCD in 4 PJs. Which also means I will need new 3D glasses since I am sure the plethora of DLP glasses I have won't work.

What glasses offer the best value?


----------



## ccampbell

rekbones said:


> Doesn't sound like AC is an issue. How is the ventilation around the projector, is heat building up, is there a lot of dust plugging the filter as running on the warm side but not enough to shut it down could cause early component failure. One other source is ESD (electrostatic discharge), are you often getting sparks when you touch things in the room, get a humidifier if that's the case.


I dont think its a heat issue there is a ceiling fan three feet from it and checking the filters they were clean. I've got the AC set on 50% humidity, so there's not a lot of static. I'm checking all the wires in the next couple of days and I've ordered a Panamax MX5102 Power Condition and Batter Back up UPS for the projector and will install a Intermatic Smart Gurard IG2240-IMSK Whole Home Surge Protector in the next week or two when I get time. I talked with my work electrician, and he's got me checking every neutral in my panel and the grounds and told me to pull the breaker to look for shorts and the wall socket. So I'll go from there. I really really appreciate you all chiming in I was so fearful that this was happening a lot to everyone. 
And to Jason my Bose are old but they are still jamming after 20 years. That is will be my next upgrade. As for the disco lights and strobes my daughters wanted a club so Club Campbell was born. 

Chris


----------



## Dreathlock

Anyone here with a 6050 and a PS5?
I would love some good settings for HDR gaming on my PS5. I always have the feeling that games are too washed out (Immortals) or too dark (Resident Evil 8 Demo). 
Thank you!


----------



## DaGamePimp

Dreathlock said:


> Anyone here with a 6050 and a PS5?
> I would love some good settings for HDR gaming on my PS5. I always have the feeling that games are too washed out (Immortals) or too dark (Resident Evil 8 Demo).
> Thank you!


I have a 5050ub and a PS5 but have yet to play it on the 5050ub. 

I plan to fire it up this weekend.

- Jason


----------



## rekbones

ccampbell said:


> I dont think its a heat issue there is a ceiling fan three feet from it and checking the filters they were clean. I've got the AC set on 50% humidity, so there's not a lot of static. I'm checking all the wires in the next couple of days and I've ordered a Panamax MX5102 Power Condition and Batter Back up UPS for the projector and will install a Intermatic Smart Gurard IG2240-IMSK Whole Home Surge Protector in the next week or two when I get time. I talked with my work electrician, and he's got me checking every neutral in my panel and the grounds and told me to pull the breaker to look for shorts and the wall socket. So I'll go from there. I really really appreciate you all chiming in I was so fearful that this was happening a lot to everyone.
> And to Jason my Bose are old but they are still jamming after 20 years. That is will be my next upgrade. As for the disco lights and strobes my daughters wanted a club so Club Campbell was born.
> 
> Chris


You mention using AC so assume your in a warmer climate. Do you have frequent lightning storms? If you have a long HDMI run it's a magnet for ESD from lightning. You keep upgrading your power conditioning but none of it will help in the slightest for near lighting strikes. I have had projectors for years, just plugged into the wall on undedicated circuits, no surge protectors or power conditioners, and never had a similar failure to yours except during a near lightning strike that took out over $3000 worth of various "low voltage" items throughout the house, none of it related to the AC lines.


----------



## ccampbell

rekbones said:


> You mention using AC so assume your in a warmer climate. Do you have frequent lightning storms? If you have a long HDMI run it's a magnet for ESD from lightning. You keep upgrading your power conditioning but none of it will help in the slightest for near lighting strikes. I have had projectors for years, just plugged into the wall on dedicated circuits, no surge protectors or power conditioners, and never had a similar failure to yours except during a near lightning strike that took out over $3000 worth of various "low voltage" items throughout the house, none of it related to the AC lines.


I think you might have just knocked it out of the park there rekbones We have some bad ones here in North Carolina. My 75' braided Fiber optic HDMI runs across the attic where it is actually in the air and runs into a 2inch conduct that is two inches from the roof down to the knee wall and then to the media cabinet. I know we have had storms probably the same week of the failed projector, but we don't use the room every night. Did you put surge protectors on your HDMI's I see they offer them now.


----------



## rekbones

ccampbell said:


> I think you might have just knocked it out of the park there rekbones We have some bad ones here in North Carolina. My 75' braided Fiber optic HDMI runs across the attic where it is actually in the air and runs into a 2inch conduct that is two inches from the roof down to the knee wall and then to the media cabinet. I know we have had storms probably the same week of the failed projector, but we don't use the room every night. Did you put surge protectors on your HDMI's I see they offer them now.


I have all my AV gear in the back of the room near my projectors so no cables over 10'. Here in New England we have very few electrical storms but if they have surge suppressors for HDMI it's a better bet then nothing but I have no clue as to how well they work. Optical is an excellent solution as glass doesn't conduct electricity but unfortunately with HDMI they still have solid conductors in them.


----------



## RVD26

Which of these Chief ceiling mounts is preferred and why?

This one?








Chief RPMA357 Projector Mount Kit w/ Micro Adjustments for Epson 5050UB / 5050UBe / 5050 - Chief Chief-Kit-RPMA357


#Chief-Kit-RPMA357 - Chief RPMA357 Projector Mount Kit w/ Micro Adjustments for Epson 5050UB / 5050UBe / 5050




www.projectorscreen.com





Or this one?








Chief RPA Elite Custom Projector Mount for Epson 5050UB/e with Keyed Locking (A version) - RPMA357 - Chief Chief-RPMA357


#Chief-RPMA357 - Chief RPA Elite Custom Projector Mount for Epson 5050UB/e with Keyed Locking (A version) - RPMA357




www.projectorscreen.com


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> Which of these Chief ceiling mounts is preferred and why?
> 
> This one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chief RPMA357 Projector Mount Kit w/ Micro Adjustments for Epson 5050UB / 5050UBe / 5050 - Chief Chief-Kit-RPMA357
> 
> 
> #Chief-Kit-RPMA357 - Chief RPMA357 Projector Mount Kit w/ Micro Adjustments for Epson 5050UB / 5050UBe / 5050
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or this one?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chief RPA Elite Custom Projector Mount for Epson 5050UB/e with Keyed Locking (A version) - RPMA357 - Chief Chief-RPMA357
> 
> 
> #Chief-RPMA357 - Chief RPA Elite Custom Projector Mount for Epson 5050UB/e with Keyed Locking (A version) - RPMA357
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com


I vote for RPMA357 because it appears to be a similar design as my Sanus VP-1 version. If so, then the pitch, yaw and roll is stupid simple to adjust and snug down with a long Phillips screwdriver and the universally adjustable arms will attach to many projector case mounting holes.

The other one looks like it's dedicated to specific projectors, thereby, limiting its applicability to future equipment changes.


----------



## crazylad

My question is also about the mount. I see that CHF4000 is recommended by Epson in their website for the 5050UB. Can I use the Chief's CHF4500 mount to mount the Epson 5050UB to the ceiling? 
Any input is appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## RVD26

crazylad said:


> My question is also about the mount. I see that CHF4000 is recommended by Epson in their website for the 5050UB. Can I use the Chief's CHF4500 mount to mount the Epson 5050UB to the ceiling?
> Any input is appreciated. Thanks!


I didn't realize that Epson had a recommended mount on their website. Looks like the CHF4000 is out of stock at most places.


----------



## crazylad

RVD26 said:


> I didn't realize that Epson had a recommended mount on their website. Looks like the CHF4000 is out of stock at most places.


In the 5050UB details page in the Epson website, if you choose mounts at the bottom, it takes us to CHF4000. But, as you said, it is out of stock there also. Hence I'm thinking of buying CHF4500 which is black.


----------



## kdog750

Without going through all 500 pages, can someone recommend their settings for HDR and SDR? I'm still trying to dial in my 6050ub to look decent. Right now it looks better to leave HDR off. I'm using an Apple TV for demo because my Panasonic hasn't come in yet. Thanks!


----------



## arnemetis

kdog750 said:


> Without going through all 500 pages, can someone recommend their settings for HDR and SDR? I'm still trying to dial in my 6050ub to look decent. Right now it looks better to leave HDR off. I'm using an Apple TV for demo because my Panasonic hasn't come in yet. Thanks!


Everyone's room setup, and indeed projector, are different so you won't fine any good one size fits all options suggested for specific adjustments. Use of the Spears & Munsil disc is often recommended. You are going to be happier with at least two configurations, one for hdr content and one for sdr that you switch to manually.

What I can suggest is Natural for SDR content and Digital Cinema for HDR. Digital Cinema and Cinema engage the color filter which leads to better colors, at the cost of about half your brightness output. The HDR slider is a personal preference, you might find a middle ground you are happy with or you may have to adjust it based on the movie type (for example I want it brighter in darker movies like the Harry Potter series.) You also have the opportunity to adjust the lamp from medium or eco up to full power to overcome some of the brightness hit, or you can ignore the color filter modes to sacrifice some color for the brightness. I haven't felt the need to do a proper calibration on my setup yet, I've had it since late last year.


----------



## fredworld

For those interested *My Projector Lamps is having a 10% off all Epson lamps*. Use Coupon Code EPSON 10. 
AFAIK, these lamps use the same bulbs as Epson but in aftermarket housings. My *earlier posts* are replete with issues with aftermarket housings so, buyer be ware. Having said that, MyProjectorLamps provided excellent customer service whenever I've dealt with them over the many years I've bought lamps from them.


----------



## nikolindb

I have a strange noise coming from my 6050ub. It's not happening every time I power on my projector, but most of the times anyway. Sometimes after a while it goes away or might quiet down a little, or if I switch to High and back to Medium, it might go away... The projector is ceiling mounted. The noise is coming from the right side of the projector, behind the vent, and sounds almost like the fan is somehow vibrating, or hitting to something on every spin, or something is stuck on the fan and that is hitting on some housing or something. Like a mechanical clicking type of sound. Anyone else had similar issues? Is it easy to take apart the front of the projector?


----------



## nikolindb

Accidental double post


----------



## pgm10s

hello
In the very dark scene , i see the small circle bright spot (very very dim). It look like the light from the len.
I am not sure that is the normal
Thank you.


----------



## fredworld

pgm10s said:


> hello
> In the very dark scene , i see the small circle bright spot (very very dim). It look like the light from the len.
> I am not sure that is the normal
> Thank you.


Sounds like a dust blob or inside the lens assembly. Try defocusing so that the "spot" gets as small as possible. If it is dust eventually they'll come to focus and its shape will be obvious. Dust blobs come to focus easily with my Epson. With mine I plan to take it to the nearest authorized facility soon. Fortunately, my PJ is still under warranty, otherwise it's an estimated $1200 repair by replacing the optical engine. 
It's a common problem with LCD panels. They are semi-sealed systems so that air can circulate around them to keep from overheating.


----------



## pgm10s

fredworld said:


> Sounds like a dust blob or inside the lens assembly. Try defocusing so that the "spot" gets as small as possible. If it is dust eventually they'll come to focus and its shape will be obvious. Dust blobs come to focus easily with my Epson. With mine I plan to take it to the nearest authorized facility soon. Fortunately, my PJ is still under warranty, otherwise it's an estimated $1200 repair by replacing the optical engine.
> It's a common problem with LCD panels. They are semi-sealed systems so that air can circulate around them to keep from overheating.


Thank you so much for your answer. It will appear only on black scene. But I notice that at the len , it has very small hole of light project to the screen.


----------



## fredworld

pgm10s said:


> Thank you so much for your answer. It will appear only on black scene. But I notice that at the len , it has very small hole of light project to the screen.


Here are *some posts on dust blobs*.


----------



## kdog750

After playing with the settings, I found the best picture to be on bright cinema. I know that's not recommended but with brightness at 40, contrast at 45, color saturation at 60, gamma at 0, and HDR slider at 2, the image really pops and has more than adequate black levels. I'm sure you could get better black levels with the renowned JVC 790R, but the image on a 120" screen in a completely light controlled room impresses with these settings.


----------



## PannyMan87

I just took delivery of a new 5050UB. My local dealer thought it was going to take 2-3 weeks to secure a 5050UB because they are on backorder. Took exactly 1 week to get it! I had been looking and researching for a few months. I previously had a BenQ DLP in the past, but wanted to go with the best projector under 3k that i could get. I believe the 5050UB is the best projector at that price point and am looking forward to seeing the projector in action soon once i get it mounted! Cheers!


----------



## Khar00f

Khar00f said:


> When I enabled enhanced HDMI on my AVR I was getting a black screen but sound was still working, I thought the console just didn't support it.
> 
> Now I'm thinking it is the cable, I ordered an optical HDMI 50' from Amazon, will get it at the end of the week, we'll see with that.


@rekbones

So I received my Amazon Basics 50' Optical HDMI Cable, and I wanted to update everyone interested.

The cable worked right away, was able to enable enhanced HDMI and the Xbox Series X detected and enabled 4K HDR for gaming along with 4K 10 bit video etc....

I do have one last question (for now), I know older projectors when you turned them off, the fan kept going to cool the lamp properly otherwise the bulb could burn prematurely.

Is that still an issue for this projector?

Wondering if I should plug it to a UPS in case of electricity outage while watching.

Here's a before and after picture.

Thanks guys, much love.


----------



## Khar00f

kdog750 said:


> Without going through all 500 pages, can someone recommend their settings for HDR and SDR? I'm still trying to dial in my 6050ub to look decent. Right now it looks better to leave HDR off. I'm using an Apple TV for demo because my Panasonic hasn't come in yet. Thanks!


I followed this guide since I have no idea what 90% of these settings do, I just copy pasted, I do have a light controlled environment so I figured they should be good for me.

I did 0 adjustment to them and they look great, of course your mileage may vary, but worth checking out as a base.






Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews


Learn about the best calibration settings for your projector. This article is part of a series on home theater projectors from Projector Reviews




www.projectorreviews.com


----------



## Sportsfan555

Hello all! I am the new owner of a 5050UB and just have to wait for delivery. I am a gamer, so I would say 60% will be used with the PS5 between games and Blu-Ray movies, 20% Sports, 20% Netflix. My biggest concern is trying to figure out a way to make the 5050UB work perfectly with my current Denon AVR-4520CI. The Denon was very expensive when I first purchased it (I think it was around 8 years ago) and I can't afford to upgrade at this time. The problem is that even though my Denon will support 4K pass through, since the HDMI's are version 1.4a, it's not going to be able to support the newest features of the projector like HRD 10 and 4K @ 60 Hz. Both the 5050UB and the PS5 do not have any audio only out's, they just rely on the HDMI wire for audio. I'm thinking that my only option at this point is to buy a newer HDMI switcher and connect that to an audio extractor or buy an all in one that does both jobs in one unit. They make so many of these so I have been reading many reviews all day about these HDMI switchers. I've called Crutchfield, Epson, and Monoprice and they couldn't point me to a specific one that is sure to work. They all said it's something I have to research and figure out since they don't test for that stuff. Some of the customers leaving reviews on Amazon/Crutchfield say they work for one feature, but not another. Some say they work for them which is a different set up than mine. I haven't found one that seems to be a sure thing. Someone mentioned this HDFury 4K Ultra AVRkey from Monoprice but its not an actual switcher. So it would be really great if there was a 5050UB owner out there that is using it an older AVR that already figured out a solution that surely works. Thanks for reading.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Sportsfan555 said:


> Hello all! I am the new owner of a 5050UB and just have to wait for delivery. I am a gamer, so I would say 60% will be used with the PS5 between games and Blu-Ray movies, 20% Sports, 20% Netflix. My biggest concern is trying to figure out a way to make the 5050UB work perfectly with my current Denon AVR-4520CI. The Denon was very expensive when I first purchased it (I think it was around 8 years ago) and I can't afford to upgrade at this time. The problem is that even though my Denon will support 4K pass through, since the HDMI's are version 1.4a, it's not going to be able to support the newest features of the projector like HRD 10 and 4K @ 60 Hz. Both the 5050UB and the PS5 do not have any audio only out's, they just rely on the HDMI wire for audio. I'm thinking that my only option at this point is to buy a newer HDMI switcher and connect that to an audio extractor or buy an all in one that does both jobs in one unit. They make so many of these so I have been reading many reviews all day about these HDMI switchers. I've called Crutchfield, Epson, and Monoprice and they couldn't point me to a specific one that is sure to work. They all said it's something I have to research and figure out since they don't test for that stuff. Some of the customers leaving reviews on Amazon/Crutchfield say they work for one feature, but not another. Some say they work for them which is a different set up than mine. I haven't found one that seems to be a sure thing. Someone mentioned this HDFury 4K Ultra AVRkey from Monoprice but its not an actual switcher. So it would be really great if there was a 5050UB owner out there that is using it an older AVR that already figured out a solution that surely works. Thanks for reading.


How many devices do you need to connect?


----------



## pgm10s

fredworld said:


> Here are *some posts on dust blobs*.


After try to defocus. I really see the dust blob. So sad. My unit is about 40 hours.


----------



## fredworld

pgm10s said:


> After try to defocus. I really see the dust blob. So sad. My unit is about 40 hours.


Then it's under warranty. Contact Epson for service and advice.


----------



## Sportsfan555

PixelPusher15 said:


> How many devices do you need to connect?


For now I really just need to connect two things which are my PS5 and cable box. Possibly in the future I might add something like a 3D Blu-ray player, but I can also just watch 3D movies right from the cable box so it might only be 2 devices long term


----------



## pgm10s

fredworld said:


> Here are *some posts on dust blobs*.


After try to defocus. I really see the dust blob. So sad. My unit is about 40 hours.


----------



## pgm10s

fredworld said:


> Then it's under warranty. Contact Epson for service and advice.


Thank you


----------



## saipanda

Khar00f said:


> @rekbones
> 
> So I received my Amazon Basics 50' Optical HDMI Cable, and I wanted to update everyone interested.
> 
> The cable worked right away, was able to enable enhanced HDMI and the Xbox Series X detected and enabled 4K HDR for gaming along with 4K 10 bit video etc....
> 
> I do have one last question (for now), I know older projectors when you turned them off, the fan kept going to cool the lamp properly otherwise the bulb could burn prematurely.
> 
> Is that still an issue for this projector?
> 
> Wondering if I should plug it to a UPS in case of electricity outage while watching.
> 
> Here's a before and after picture.
> 
> Thanks guys, much love.
> 
> View attachment 3120528
> View attachment 3120529


Is the Amazon Basics optical in-wall rated? Does it say so on the packaging and/or cable?


----------



## saipanda

If I can mount the projector dead center on the horizontal access, how much leeway do I have in mounting it vertically above the top of the screen?


----------



## arnemetis

Sportsfan555 said:


> For now I really just need to connect two things which are my PS5 and cable box. Possibly in the future I might add something like a 3D Blu-ray player, but I can also just watch 3D movies right from the cable box so it might only be 2 devices long term


I was in a similar boat, didn't want to replace my receiver. I only have one device I really wanted to use, so I picked this up https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DBB31HP/ they have models that support multiple inputs as well, for me this works great. No issues at all with a 25' cable from projector to keystone jack, 3' cable to the avr key, 3' cable to my receiver for audio and a 3' cable to my nvidia shield. 4k hdr content plays without issue.


----------



## pgm10s

fredworld said:


> Then it's under warranty. Contact Epson for service and advice.


May I ask some more question.
If epson change the part for dust blob issue. Do I need to calibrate the projector again.


----------



## rekbones

saipanda said:


> If I can mount the projector dead center on the horizontal access, how much leeway do I have in mounting it vertically above the top of the screen?


The 5040ub can be 46% of screen height above the top of the screen inverted or right side up.


----------



## rekbones

pgm10s said:


> May I ask some more question.
> If epson change the part for dust blob issue. Do I need to calibrate the projector again.


Epson if you are over 30 days from purchase Epson will send you a refurbished projector. Your vendor return policy may be different so getting a new one may be a longer period. I believe if you request it you can send in yours for repair but you may have to pay shipping one way. Either way recalibration is on your dime and will be required if so desired.


----------



## msankadi

Hi

I never hear the fans on my Epson 6050 coming up... I mostly use it on eco or medium so i can understand it is not being stressed that much.. However even when I shut it down I never hear the fan staying on

I just want to confirm i am doing this right... I have to press the button to the right of the power on button twice to shut down right?

Also, is there anything to worry if I don't hear the fans coming on? The light is always blue so I don't think the temperature is getting high, just want to confirm though 

Sent from my RMX2081 using Tapatalk


----------



## Sportsfan555

arnemetis said:


> I was in a similar boat, didn't want to replace my receiver. I only have one device I really wanted to use, so I picked this up https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DBB31HP/ they have models that support multiple inputs as well, for me this works great. No issues at all with a 25' cable from projector to keystone jack, 3' cable to the avr key, 3' cable to my receiver for audio and a 3' cable to my nvidia shield. 4k hdr content plays without issue.





arnemetis said:


> I was in a similar boat, didn't want to replace my receiver. I only have one device I really wanted to use, so I picked this up https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DBB31HP/ they have models that support multiple inputs as well, for me this works great. No issues at all with a 25' cable from projector to keystone jack, 3' cable to the avr key, 3' cable to my receiver for audio and a 3' cable to my nvidia shield. 4k hdr content plays without issue.


Thank You, that sounds like exactly what I need. They are all sold out on Amazon from the link you sent me. They do still have some on Monoprice, but it was interesting because when I went to the actual Website of HDFury they showed that particular model and its been discontinued. I wonder why they would discontinue it since its really not that old. I couldn't really find any newer model from HDFury that is a replacement. A lot of the other ones seem to be just switches but not audio extractors. A lot of reviewers said the box gets extremely hot, I wonder if that has anything to do with it being discontinued. Since its very pricy on Monoprice, I'm wondering if its worth the money right now if there could be a possible problem with them down the road since its discontinued. Does yours get very hot? 
I see best buy sells something that might work which got pretty good reviews. I'm not positive, but I have a feeling that the HD Fury actually keeps the signal of what you are listening to (for example say Dolby digital 7.1) where the cheaper Best Buy (Insignia audio extractor) (and all the other cheaper ones from amazon) don't carry over the variety of different listening modes. I think its more generic where the simple extraction, so when you use the Optical wire from the unit to your receiver, the most it can do is a generic 5.1 or 2 channel. I guess that is better than nothing, but I think your HDFury is the better buy overall. I could be wrong about that assumption but hopefully someone on here knows more about these. I'm just worried that it's discontinued and over 3X the price as the Insignia, so I'm not sure which to buy. Here is the link to the Insignia https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-hdmi-audio-extractor-black/6324750.p?skuId=6324750


----------



## Maineiac12

nikolindb said:


> I have a strange noise coming from my 6050ub. It's not happening every time I power on my projector, but most of the times anyway. Sometimes after a while it goes away or might quiet down a little, or if I switch to High and back to Medium, it might go away... The projector is ceiling mounted. The noise is coming from the right side of the projector, behind the vent, and sounds almost like the fan is somehow vibrating, or hitting to something on every spin, or something is stuck on the fan and that is hitting on some housing or something. Like a mechanical clicking type of sound. Anyone else had similar issues? Is it easy to take apart the front of the projector?


Before you take anything apart, try turning off dynamic iris and see if the noise goes away. The sound you’re hearing could be that.


----------



## Khar00f

saipanda said:


> Is the Amazon Basics optical in-wall rated? Does it say so on the packaging and/or cable?


It doesn't say, so probably isn't.









Amazon Basics High-Speed HDMI Fiber Optic Cable (18 Gpbs - 4k/60Hz) - 50-Foot : Amazon.ca: Electronics


Amazon Basics High-Speed HDMI Fiber Optic Cable (18 Gpbs - 4k/60Hz) - 50-Foot : Amazon.ca: Electronics



www.amazon.ca





Here's the link in case you're interested


----------



## ShadowBoy

Supposedly the Epson 6050 has the ability to show any 2D movie in 3D by conversion. Has anyone tried this yet, and if so what was the quality like? Even movies officially released in 3D have varying quality. Sin City: A Dame To Dire For and Jumanji: Welcome to the Jungle were both great, but Shazam wasn't very good.


----------



## Sportsfan555

arnemetis said:


> I was in a similar boat, didn't want to replace my receiver. I only have one device I really wanted to use, so I picked this up https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DBB31HP/ they have models that support multiple inputs as well, for me this works great. No issues at all with a 25' cable from projector to keystone jack, 3' cable to the avr key, 3' cable to my receiver for audio and a 3' cable to my nvidia shield. 4k hdr content plays without issue.


Which exact 25' HDMI cable do you use? This could save me a lot of researching since we are in the same boat having to use an audio extractor


----------



## pgm10s

rekbones said:


> Epson if you are over 30 days from purchase Epson will send you a refurbished projector. Your vendor return policy may be different so getting a new one may be a longer period. I believe if you request it you can send in yours for repair but you may have to pay shipping one way. Either way recalibration is on your dime and will be required if so desired.


Thank you so much.


----------



## arnemetis

Sportsfan555 said:


> Thank You, that sounds like exactly what I need. They are all sold out on Amazon from the link you sent me. They do still have some on Monoprice, but it was interesting because when I went to the actual Website of HDFury they showed that particular model and its been discontinued. I wonder why they would discontinue it since its really not that old. I couldn't really find any newer model from HDFury that is a replacement. A lot of the other ones seem to be just switches but not audio extractors. A lot of reviewers said the box gets extremely hot, I wonder if that has anything to do with it being discontinued. Since its very pricy on Monoprice, I'm wondering if its worth the money right now if there could be a possible problem with them down the road since its discontinued. Does yours get very hot?
> I see best buy sells something that might work which got pretty good reviews. I'm not positive, but I have a feeling that the HD Fury actually keeps the signal of what you are listening to (for example say Dolby digital 7.1) where the cheaper Best Buy (Insignia audio extractor) (and all the other cheaper ones from amazon) don't carry over the variety of different listening modes. I think its more generic where the simple extraction, so when you use the Optical wire from the unit to your receiver, the most it can do is a generic 5.1 or 2 channel. I guess that is better than nothing, but I think your HDFury is the better buy overall. I could be wrong about that assumption but hopefully someone on here knows more about these. I'm just worried that it's discontinued and over 3X the price as the Insignia, so I'm not sure which to buy. Here is the link to the Insignia
> https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-hdmi-audio-extractor-black/6324750.p?skuId=6324750


Yeah the link I sent you was for the particular model I had, which yes is discontinued. They have other products that may work for you, especially since you had mentioned needing multiple inputs. Most of their newer products now include a splitter for at least two inputs, start here - AVR Key 18Gbps | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI I suspect they discontinued it so they could focus on their higher priced options. The old version of the3 box did get hot, but the one I have was the second run with a large metal heatsink on the bottom that resolved the issues. Even watching the 4 hour cut recent justice league movie I didn't have any issues. The two mentioned as replacements on that site also state they can function as extractors. If you have a good audio setup now, I would not downgrade to an optical audio output option, I would seriously consider getting a replacement receiver then. Especially since these splitter / extractors are starting to get quite pricey. The receiver should be the most replaced object in your home theater, followed by display, then speakers (which can last for a VERY long time.) Don't consider that insignia extractor, you are seriously limiting your audio options then. Look into www.accessories4less.com for some refurbished receivers, you can find options here pretty reasonably and I bet they are likely to be superior to your existing receiver in all the ways that matter.



Sportsfan555 said:


> Which exact 25' HDMI cable do you use? This could save me a lot of researching since we are in the same boat having to use an audio extractor


I bought these cable matters hdmi cables in 25' and 3' varieties, unfortunately the 25' isn't available anymore: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BZG8FK/ Not sure why they don't offer it anymore, unless they are worried it is cannibalizing their active cable sales.


----------



## Luminated67

^Personally I would spend the bit extra and guarantee the cable will work by buying an Optical HDMI like this

https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Fiber...ords=optical+hdmi+30ft&qid=1618232093&sr=8-13


----------



## arnemetis

Luminated67 said:


> ^Personally I would spend the bit extra and guarantee the cable will work by buying an Optical HDMI like this
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/ATZEBE-Fiber...ords=optical+hdmi+30ft&qid=1618232093&sr=8-13


I've seen enough failures reported in this very thread of optical hdmi to know that they are in no way guaranteed. They all fail.


----------



## Luminated67

arnemetis said:


> I've seen enough failures reported in this very thread of optical hdmi to know that they are in no way guaranteed. They all fail.


Optical cables can be damaged especially if installed improperly but if they work they definitely do the job.

Always test before installing.


----------



## Spydie

Hi everyone, have a question about the 6050ub. I am intermittently getting an error where I either get a solid status light (No boot on) or a flashing status and flashing lamp light (no boot on). I've unplugged the unit and it solves it for a minute but eventually it comes back. In the manual it states an internal error and to contact epson, which I did, and they want to give me a refurb unit to replace it. This is quite frustrating as I've only had the unit for 32 days and their warranty for a new unit is 30 days from purchase, which for me was end of January. Well with the shipping issues the past few months I didn't even get the unit until March 2nd! I'm pretty ticked after spending $4000 on a unit and they want to give me a refurb unit for an error from the factory. I have not updated my PJ since I got it, anyone have any input or think maybe an update might fix it? I am quite frustrated.


----------



## fredworld

Spydie said:


> Hi everyone, have a question about the 6050ub. I am intermittently getting an error where I either get a solid status light (No boot on) or a flashing status and flashing lamp light (no boot on). I've unplugged the unit and it solves it for a minute but eventually it comes back. In the manual it states an internal error and to contact epson, which I did, and they want to give me a refurb unit to replace it. This is quite frustrating as I've only had the unit for 32 days and their warranty for a new unit is 30 days from purchase, which for me was end of January. Well with the shipping issues the past few months I didn't even get the unit until March 2nd! I'm pretty ticked after spending $4000 on a unit and they want to give me a refurb unit for an error from the factory. I have not updated my PJ since I got it, anyone have any input or think maybe an update might fix it? I am quite frustrated.


You can take the unit to an *authorized repair facility* instead of shipping it to Epson. Perhaps, that way you can keep your "new" unit albeit repaired.


----------



## Baron5

Okay, here's a softball question. How do I turn off the projector requesting a second press of the power button to turn off? I set the 6040 in my Harmony remote but it only gets me half way to off...


----------



## fredworld

Baron5 said:


> Okay, here's a softball question. How do I turn off the projector requesting a second press of the power button to turn off? I set the 6040 in my Harmony remote but it only gets me half way to off...


Seems you'll have to program the Harmony's turn off sequence with one extra button that you can teach from the Epson RC.


----------



## Baron5

fredworld said:


> Seems you'll have to program the Harmony's turn off sequence with one extra button that you can teach from the Epson RC.


Yeah, I checked the settings on the pj and couldn't figure anything out there. I've always had Epson and Harmony remotes but don't remember this issue in the past. Maybe because I had cec on but don't for the AVM70? Hmm.

Anyway, thanks for the input. I'll see about adjust the commands.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

Baron5 said:


> Okay, here's a softball question. How do I turn off the projector requesting a second press of the power button to turn off? I set the 6040 in my Harmony remote but it only gets me half way to off...


I had similar issues and need to go into the power settings of your device in the remote. However, easiest thing to do is call harmony support; they will set up the commands/settings for you over the phone.


----------



## Spydie

fredworld said:


> You can take the unit to an *authorized repair facility* instead of shipping it to Epson. Perhaps, that way you can keep your "new" unit albeit repaired.


Not really the point, the point is I just spent 4k on a projector, shouldn't need to spend more or spend that much for a refurb model. If I wanted a refurb model I would've bought one from the start


----------



## muad'dib

Spydie said:


> Not really the point, the point is I just spent 4k on a projector, shouldn't need to spend more or spend that much for a refurb model. If I wanted a refurb model I would've bought one from the start


I know that winin the 1st 30 days, they send out a new unit, then after the 30 days refurb..

That was what they told me in past with previous Epsons I had..


----------



## Baron5

Baron5 said:


> Yeah, I checked the settings on the pj and couldn't figure anything out there. I've always had Epson and Harmony remotes but don't remember this issue in the past. Maybe because I had cec on but don't for the AVM70? Hmm.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for the input. I'll see about adjust the commands.


Went into the Device>Power Settings>Device needs two commands to power off. Entered Power Off in both boxes, updated the remote, and...still the same. Sigh. I'll mess with delay next. Maybe move it from 500ms to 1000ms. Why this isn't a standard command through Harmony is baffling.


----------



## Pretorian

Baron5 said:


> Went into the Device>Power Settings>Device needs two commands to power off. Entered Power Off in both boxes, updated the remote, and...still the same. Sigh. I'll mess with delay next. Maybe move it from 500ms to 1000ms. Why this isn't a standard command through Harmony is baffling.


6050 and Harmony Elite here. Same issue. I added three OFF commands to get it to work just to be sure.


----------



## rekbones

Baron5 said:


> Went into the Device>Power Settings>Device needs two commands to power off. Entered Power Off in both boxes, updated the remote, and...still the same. Sigh. I'll mess with delay next. Maybe move it from 500ms to 1000ms. Why this isn't a standard command through Harmony is baffling.


I just got a Harmony Elite and it's shutting off every time so far. My old 890 would work about 50% of the time and I think I put in 5 or 6 off commands. One trick is to make sure it powers off the Epson first before anything else. If something else in the HDMI chain shuts off the Epson will go into a HDMI hand shake and will not accept any commands missing the second power off command.


----------



## Luminated67

Spydie said:


> Hi everyone, have a question about the 6050ub. I am intermittently getting an error where I either get a solid status light (No boot on) or a flashing status and flashing lamp light (no boot on). I've unplugged the unit and it solves it for a minute but eventually it comes back. In the manual it states an internal error and to contact epson, which I did, and they want to give me a refurb unit to replace it. This is quite frustrating as I've only had the unit for 32 days and their warranty for a new unit is 30 days from purchase, which for me was end of January. Well with the shipping issues the past few months I didn't even get the unit until March 2nd! I'm pretty ticked after spending $4000 on a unit and they want to give me a refurb unit for an error from the factory. I have not updated my PJ since I got it, anyone have any input or think maybe an update might fix it? I am quite frustrated.


When mine did the flashing blue light on the side and wouldn't power up I phone Epson and like you mine was about 2-3 days beyond the 30 day direct replacement option but here in Northern Ireland they didn't have a depot outside of the UK so they sent it to their repair centre in Dublin, I was only without the projector for about 5-6 days and it was my own projector that was returned to me.

If that's an option to you I would pick that over a refurb.


----------



## Spydie

Luminated67 said:


> When mine did the flashing blue light on the side and wouldn't power up I phone Epson and like you mine was about 2-3 days beyond the 30 day direct replacement option but here in Northern Ireland they didn't have a depot outside of the UK so they sent it to their repair centre in Dublin, I was only without the projector for about 5-6 days and it was my own projector that was returned to me.
> 
> If that's an option to you I would pick that over a refurb.



It sounds like the company I ordered mine through is much more willing to help get this issue fixed. I'll continue supporting them in the future. Not sure about Epson though....


----------



## SpedInFargo

Baron5 said:


> Yeah, I checked the settings on the pj and couldn't figure anything out there. I've always had Epson and Harmony remotes but don't remember this issue in the past. Maybe because I had cec on but don't for the AVM70? Hmm.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for the input. I'll see about adjust the commands.


It's there - it's just buried and not too obvious in its wording. To make the projector resopnd to a single button press of the Power button (instead of two) you need to turn OFF "Standby Confirmation" in the projector settings:

Projector Setup Settings - Extended Menu 
Display settings 
Standby Confirmation 

"Displays a confirmation message after pressing the Standby button on the remote control "


----------



## vlayton

I now use the confirmation setting. Nothing like hitting the wrong remote button and accidentally shutting down the projector. I probably gave various remotes too much control.


----------



## Baron5

SpedInFargo said:


> It's there - it's just buried and not too obvious in its wording. To make the projector resopnd to a single button press of the Power button (instead of two) you need to turn OFF "Standby Confirmation" in the projector settings:
> 
> Projector Setup Settings - Extended Menu
> Display settings
> Standby Confirmation
> 
> "Displays a confirmation message after pressing the Standby button on the remote control "


You sir, are my hero. Why it didn't dawn on me that Standby was off I don't know. I had added 4 power off commands in the Harmony early today and still no dice. Just ran up and switched Standby Confirmation off and it worked like a charm. Thank you!


----------



## Luminated67

Spydie said:


> It sounds like the company I ordered mine through is much more willing to help get this issue fixed. I'll continue supporting them in the future. Not sure about Epson though....


Epson as a company seem to be have much better customer service than most but cut-off dates for new replacements will always leave some on the wrong side of the fence as with you and me. In my case their solution was probably the best one and 2 years later it hasn't missed a beat and continues to impress the hell out of me.

May I ask what the company you dealt with are doing, I'm guessing giving a new one in exchange?


----------



## Kieran

So here's a very strange behavior I'm seeing:
When I play anything but Youtube from my Sony UBP-x800m2 uhd blu ray player, my Epson 5050ub shows it's getting a 1080p signal. This is true of both Netflix, Prime, AND a UHD blu ray disc (Spears & Munsil). If I play a 4k clip from Youtube though, it shows as 3840x2160.
Signal goes from Sony to Yamaha RX-A2020 receiver, to Epson. If I bypass the Yamaha, and connect straight to the Epson with the Rupiro optical hdmi cable, all is normal and I get 4k from the Spears & Munsil disc (but no sound, obviously).

So it would seem that the Yamaha is a problem somehow. But I'm not totally sure. I mean why would it pass Youtube content and nothing else? Could it also be the (short) HDMI connection from the Sony to the Yamaha? Is there a setting somewhere I'm missing?

Maybe Youtube is sending a lower bandwidth (colorspace?) signal and that gets through, but Netflix and the disc player don't?

Any troubleshooting ideas on how to narrow down what might be happening here?

This doesn't seem to be a problem with the Epson, but again, I'm just not sure. So I thought I'd start with this forum. Happy to move this to another forum if someone can suggest a better place to discuss this.

Thanks, y'all...


----------



## chewynuts

Just FYI the 5050ube is available on the Epson clearance page again.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> So here's a very strange behavior I'm seeing:
> When I play anything but Youtube from my Sony UBP-x800m2 uhd blu ray player, my Epson 5050ub shows it's getting a 1080p signal. This is true of both Netflix, Prime, AND a UHD blu ray disc (Spears & Munsil). If I play a 4k clip from Youtube though, it shows as 3840x2160.
> Signal goes from Sony to Yamaha RX-A2020 receiver, to Epson. If I bypass the Yamaha, and connect straight to the Epson with the Rupiro optical hdmi cable, all is normal and I get 4k from the Spears & Munsil disc (but no sound, obviously).
> 
> So it would seem that the Yamaha is a problem somehow. But I'm not totally sure. I mean why would it pass Youtube content and nothing else? Could it also be the (short) HDMI connection from the Sony to the Yamaha? Is there a setting somewhere I'm missing?
> 
> Maybe Youtube is sending a lower bandwidth (colorspace?) signal and that gets through, but Netflix and the disc player don't?
> 
> Any troubleshooting ideas on how to narrow down what might be happening here?
> 
> This doesn't seem to be a problem with the Epson, but again, I'm just not sure. So I thought I'd start with this forum. Happy to move this to another forum if someone can suggest a better place to discuss this.
> 
> Thanks, y'all...


Sounds like an HDR or expanded EDID issue. I didn't think the RX-A2020 can do HDR. I bet that the Sony is detecting its limitations and then switching to something it can understand. Didn't we already learn that the Sony can't do YT HDR? So YT 4K content is probably pretty basic 4K 8 bit rec 709 which the RX-A2020 can handle.


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> It's good practice to run any new lamp based projector on HIGH lamp for the first ~100 hours to set the lamp arc (this should reduce the chances of flicker down the road... YMMV).
> 
> The auto iris on my 5050UB is nearly silent (even with no audio) and it sits directly above the main viewing position(s).
> 
> - Jason


I just noticed some flickering with my new bulb. I never knew I should run it on high lamp for the first 100 hours. If I start doing it, will it eliminate the flickering in the future ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Sounds like an HDR or expanded EDID issue. I didn't think the RX-A2020 can do HDR. I bet that the Sony is detecting its limitations and then switching to something it can understand. Didn't we already learn that the Sony can't do YT HDR? So YT 4K content is probably pretty basic 4K 8 bit rec 709 which the RX-A2020 can handle.


Right the rx-a2020 cannot do HDR. But it should be able to pass up to 4k60 rec.709. But so far only the YT app works for anything 4k. On spears & munsil, even when I select the rec.709 demo material, it comes through as 1080p, not 4k.


----------



## DaGamePimp

biglen said:


> I just noticed some flickering with my new bulb. I never knew I should run it on high lamp for the first 100 hours. If I start doing it, will it eliminate the flickering in the future ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


It's possible (depending upon hours already on the lamp) but obviously this does not guarantee that lamp flicker will not happen. 
It's claimed that newer bulbs do not suffer from this as much as those from years past but it's still the same basic technology at work (plus every manufacturer will have their own set of power delivery specifications/tolerances). With all of those variables at play it's worth doing if it can reduce the chances of flicker. 
It's also a good way to start off if you plan to calibrate the projector (or have it calibrated) since the lamp will drift a good amount in the first ~100 hours.

- Jason


----------



## Baron5

DaGamePimp said:


> It's possible (depending upon hours already on the lamp) but obviously this does not guarantee that lamp flicker will not happen.
> It's claimed that newer bulbs do not suffer from this as much as those from years past but it's still the same basic technology at work (plus every manufacturer will have their own set of power delivery specifications/tolerances). With all of those variables at play it's worth doing if it can reduce the chances of flicker.
> It's also a good way to start off if you plan to calibrate the projector (or have it calibrated) since the lamp will drift a good amount in the first ~100 hours.
> 
> - Jason


I've never heard of running lamps at high for the first hundred hours. What is the science/reasoning for this? I plan on having my 6050 and audio calibrated by Kris Deering when I hit 100 hours. I'm around 35 hours now with a mix of medium and high hours (gaming mostly). Kris didn't mention running it on high, just said to hit him up when I hit the 100 mark.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Baron5 said:


> I've never heard of running lamps at high for the first hundred hours. What is the science/reasoning for this? I plan on having my 6050 and audio calibrated by Kris Deering when I hit 100 hours. I'm around 35 hours now with a mix of medium and high hours (gaming mostly). Kris didn't mention running it on high, just said to hit him up when I hit the 100 mark.


While I cannot tell you the origin it has long been considered a good practice by many due to the way these bulbs develop and sustain their arc.

I have been doing it for ~20 years and have not experienced significant lamp flicker on any of the (many) lamp based projectors that I have owned.

It's certainly not a requirement, it's just a suggestion (do or do not... it's up to you).  

- Jason


----------



## Baron5

DaGamePimp said:


> While I cannot tell you the origin it has long been considered a good practice by many due to the way these bulbs develop and sustain their arc.
> 
> I have been doing it for ~20 years and have not experienced significant lamp flicker on any of the (many) lamp based projectors that I have owned.
> 
> It's certainly not a requirement, it's just a suggestion (do or do not... it's up to you).
> 
> - Jason


Good to know. I'll burn it bright for the following 70 hours. 

Thanks Jason.

Baron


----------



## kdog750

I've got my 6050ub dialed in pretty good but I noticed that my 4K enhancement option is grayed out on all sources for eshift. What am I missing to get it to show up?


----------



## fredworld

kdog750 said:


> I've got my 6050ub dialed in pretty good but I noticed that my 4K enhancement option is grayed out on all sources for eshift. What am I missing to get it to show up?


It must be fed a non-4k signal to enable 4k Enhancement. It's likely your AVR is seeing a 4k capable display and thus upconverting the signals to 4k before sending the video to the 6050.


----------



## kdog750

fredworld said:


> It must be fed a non-4k signal to enable 4k Enhancement. It's likely your AVR is seeing a 4k capable display and thus upconverting the signals to 4k before sending the video to the 6050.


Ok that makes sense. Thanks


----------



## fredworld

kdog750 said:


> Ok that makes sense. Thanks


If you want the 6050 to do the upconversion to 4k, then you'll have to change the HDMI video output setting in the AVR.


----------



## AVTimme

kdog750 said:


> Ok that makes sense. Thanks


If it's grayed out it means it's active and can't be deselecte. It's a bit confusing I know


----------



## rekbones

AVTimme said:


> If it's grayed out it means it's active and can't be deselecte. It's a bit confusing I know


It should have been called 1080p enhancement as it's the internal 1080p to 4K upscaler. It doesn't enhance 4K at all.


----------



## Luminated67

AVTimme said:


> If it's grayed out it means it's active and can't be deselecte. It's a bit confusing I know


When it's greyed out it means the Epson is already receiving a 4K signal and thus the e-shift function can't be turned off as you can do when the projector receives a 1080P signal, when 1080P you ultimately have the choice whether you want e-shift on or not. 



rekbones said:


> It should have been called 1080p enhancement as it's the internal 1080p to 4K upscaler. It doesn't enhance 4K at all.


I might be completely wrong so don't shoot me here but I always thought when an e-shift projector received a proper 4K signal it took 2 non-identical images and shifts the second half a pixels thus giving it the two times the resolution of 1080P, but when feed a 1080P signal it produces two identical images and does the shifting thus giving the impression of a smoother image and why the Image enhancement presets look better with 4K Enhancement turned on.


----------



## nefrina

just received my 6050 yesterday and got it setup tonight (upgrading from a home cinema 2150). should have done this a while ago, wow what a difference!

running the pj in bright cinema, 18' throw distance, 160" white over black spandex diy screen (.07 gain), ~148" 2.4 scope with masking panels. it's incredible.


----------



## Luminated67

serith said:


> just received my 6050 yesterday and got it setup tonight (upgrading from a home cinema 2150). should have done this a while ago, wow what a difference!
> 
> running the pj in bright cinema, 18' throw distance, 160" white over black spandex diy screen (.07 gain), ~148" 2.4 scope with masking panels. it's incredible.
> 
> View attachment 3123611


Glad you like, it’s one seriously impressive projector for the price.


----------



## mon2479

I just got HD FURY ARCANA hooked up and really love the images. 
ATV4K>ARACANA>YAMAHA RXA3050>EPSON, I'm using digital cinema with settings found here at the beginning of this thread.


----------



## millerquad4

Finally was able to get my 6050 professionally calibrated by ChadB a few weeks back. I will not be sharing my calibrated picture settings, but below you can see old setting images (Art's settings on projector reviews and still good settings for most people who do not care about a professional calibration) compared to the calibrated image. I am sure something like this has been shared within the thread before, but going through 500+ pages to find is time consuming. Therefore, new people coming to the thread don't have to dig through 548 pages...here you go! Please keep in mind you are more than likely viewing these on an uncalibrated display and the images are not top quality, but you will be able to tell a difference. Ultimately, every projector is different when it comes to calibrating. I recommend getting yours calibrated correctly. You will not be disappointed and I HIGHLY recommend ChadB.

Jackie Brown - Blu Ray (uncalibrated)









Jackie Brown - Blu Ray (calibrated)









Jackie Brown - Blu Ray (uncalibrated)









Jackie Brown - Blu Ray (calibrated)









Blade Runner 2049 - 4K HDR (uncalibrated)









Blade Runner 2049 - 4K HDR (calibrated)









1917 - 4K HDR (uncalibrated)









1917 -4K HDR (calibrated)









Return of the King - 4K HDR (uncalibrated)









Return of the King - 4K HDR (calibrated)









Deathly Hallows part 2 - 4K HDR (uncalibrated)









Deathly Hallows part 2 - 4K HDR (calibrated)


----------



## PixelPusher15

millerquad4 said:


> Finally was able to get my 6050 professionally calibrated by ChadB a few weeks back. I will not be sharing my calibrated picture settings, but below you can see old setting images (Art's settings on projector reviews and still good settings for most people who do not care about a professional calibration) compared to the calibrated image. I am sure something like this has been shared within the thread before, but going through 500+ pages to find is time consuming. Therefore, new people coming to the thread don't have to dig through 548 pages...here you go! Please keep in mind you are more than likely viewing these on an uncalibrated display and the images are not top quality, but you will be able to tell a difference. Ultimately, every projector is different when it comes to calibrating. I recommend getting yours calibrated correctly. You will not be disappointed and I HIGHLY recommend ChadB.
> 
> Jackie Brown - Blu Ray (uncalibrated)
> View attachment 3124408
> 
> 
> Jackie Brown - Blu Ray (calibrated)
> View attachment 3124409
> 
> 
> Jackie Brown - Blu Ray (uncalibrated)
> View attachment 3124418
> 
> 
> Jackie Brown - Blu Ray (calibrated)
> View attachment 3124419
> 
> 
> Blade Runner 2049 - 4K HDR (uncalibrated)
> View attachment 3124410
> 
> 
> Blade Runner 2049 - 4K HDR (calibrated)
> View attachment 3124411
> 
> 
> 1917 - 4K HDR (uncalibrated)
> View attachment 3124412
> 
> 
> 1917 -4K HDR (calibrated)
> View attachment 3124413
> 
> 
> Return of the King - 4K HDR (uncalibrated)
> View attachment 3124414
> 
> 
> Return of the King - 4K HDR (calibrated)
> View attachment 3124416
> 
> 
> Deathly Hallows part 2 - 4K HDR (uncalibrated)
> View attachment 3124421
> 
> 
> Deathly Hallows part 2 - 4K HDR (calibrated)
> View attachment 3124422


Getting mine calibrated is something I am heavily considering. Not for SDR, but for HDR. I was able to calibrate mine myself for SDR and the before/after difference was *substantial*. Even my wife said whoa, lol. But for HDR it has been nearly impossible for me to get the gamma curve correct, or should I say better. Question for you: have you noticed any more consistency with HDR going from movie to movie? I find that I am always messing with the HDR slider and about 35% of the time I'm just not happy with it.


----------



## millerquad4

PixelPusher15 said:


> Getting mine calibrated is something I am heavily considering. Not for SDR, but for HDR. I was able to calibrate mine myself for SDR and the before/after difference was *substantial*. Even my wife said whoa, lol. But for HDR it has been nearly impossible for me to get the gamma curve correct, or should I say better. Question for you: have you noticed any more consistency with HDR going from movie to movie? I find that I am always messing with the HDR slider and about 35% of the time I'm just not happy with it.


I rarely change my HDR slider as it is currently set at 5 (set at 5 before calibration too.) My room is dark, minus the carpet which is light in color. There have been a few movies where I had to move the slider to 4 or 6, but only a handful...most recent was Starship Troopers. To answer your question, I rarely moved the HDR slider before calibration and post calibration, that is the same. I have learned to keep the HDR slider on 5. If I move the slider during a movie I find I continue doing so and there is no endgame in sight.


----------



## biglen

millerquad4 said:


> I rarely change my HDR slider as it is currently set at 5 (set at 5 before calibration too.) My room is dark, minus the carpet which is light in color. There have been a few movies where I had to move the slider to 4 or 6, but only a handful...most recent was Starship Troopers. To answer your question, I rarely moved the HDR slider before calibration and post calibration, that is the same. I have learned to keep the HDR slider on 5. If I move the slider during a movie I find I continue doing so and there is no endgame in sight.


Are you using a UHD BluRay player for most of your HDR content?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## millerquad4

biglen said:


> Are you using a UHD BluRay player for most of your HDR content?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes, I have an OPPO-203. We will occasionally stream 4K HDR content on our Apple TV 4K, but 98% is via the OPPO.


----------



## biglen

millerquad4 said:


> Yes, I have an OPPO-203. We will occasionally stream 4K HDR content on our Apple TV 4K, but 98% is via the OPPO.


I was just curious, because the guy who calibrated my 5050, has it set up where my Panasonic UB420 does the tone mapping, so it outputs SDR to the 5050. The HDR slider is grayed out on the 5050, obviously. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## KMR2

I'm thinking about getting this projector, and I'm split on what room to place it in and on what screen to use. 

1) There's my living room. This is where I'd like to place it, honestly, but the lighting situation isn't great, and I want to paint it lighter colors. Currently it's a light-ish gray.

I could go with an ALR screen to deal with the ambient light. Just not sure what screen to get if I go this route.

2) I have a spare bedroom. I could paint it dark colors and control ambient light fairly well, compared to the living room. Could go with a more normal, non-ALR screen in this room.

What do you guys have going? Any living room setups? Bedroom setups? Wall colors, types of screens?


----------



## biglen

KMR2 said:


> I'm thinking about getting this projector, and I'm split on what room to place it in and on what screen to use.
> 
> 1) There's my living room. This is where I'd like to place it, honestly, but the lighting situation isn't great, and I want to paint it lighter colors. Currently it's a light-ish gray.
> 
> I could go with an ALR screen to deal with the ambient light. Just not sure what screen to get if I go this route.
> 
> 2) I have a spare bedroom. I could paint it dark colors and control ambient light fairly well, compared to the living room. Could go with a more normal, non-ALR screen in this room.
> 
> What do you guys have going? Any living room setups? Bedroom setups? Wall colors, types of screens?


Living room with light colored walls, is a bad idea, especially since it's not light controlled. If you want to get the full experience of how good the 5050/6050 is, then use it in the darkest room possible. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

KMR2 said:


> I'm thinking about getting this projector, and I'm split on what room to place it in and on what screen to use.
> 
> 1) There's my living room. This is where I'd like to place it, honestly, but the lighting situation isn't great, and I want to paint it lighter colors. Currently it's a light-ish gray.
> 
> I could go with an ALR screen to deal with the ambient light. Just not sure what screen to get if I go this route.
> 
> 2) I have a spare bedroom. I could paint it dark colors and control ambient light fairly well, compared to the living room. Could go with a more normal, non-ALR screen in this room.
> 
> What do you guys have going? Any living room setups? Bedroom setups? Wall colors, types of screens?


I have the 5050ub with a Screen Innovations Slate 1.2 110" motorized screen. It's in a media/family room without great light control, and with a white ceiling, light sage walls, and light shade hardwood floors. At night, it's amazing. At night with the lights on it's pretty darn good. In the day time with blinds open? Not so much. Any sunlight washes out the image. Windows face East, so it's worst in the morning but even in the evening with no direct sunbeams (sun on other side of house) it's not great. Something about sunlight (or maybe just the angle of the light from the windows) makes this ALR screen not very ALR. But as I said, with ceiling lights on at night, the image is still quite good. Obviously the best is with doors closed and lights out at night. I'll be getting blackout blinds/shades soon (the "designer sleep shades" from Selectblinds.com) so hopefully daytime use will improve dramatically.
Incidentally, SI has a pretty nifty tool to estimate which screens will work in your room:








Screen Material Wizard - Screen Innovations


We tell you when a material will work… and when it won’t. When your screen size, projector, and room information are available, the Screen Material Wizard displays a set of materials that will produce a minimum required system contrast ratio of 30:1, the equivalent of an image reproduced in a...




www.screeninnovations.com




Although, I just ran it, with measurements right now of the ambient sunlight coming through the windows, and it says my screen should be satisfactory. So... YMMV
EDIT: I just re-ran the measurement again, and got 8FC instead of the 6FC I had a few minutes ago. At 8FC, the wizard estimates a contrast ratio of 29:1 and their recommendation is a minimum of 30:1. So it's borderline right now, and I'd say it's not very satisfactory, unless you're just watching the news or something.
EDIT2: I put 2400 Lumens for the projector output, 110" 16:9 screen, and 8FC for light hitting the screen. And it's 5pm right now so sun is way in the West. Light coming in the room is just ambient from the blue sky outside, not direct sunbeams.


----------



## Kieran

duplicate post


----------



## Baron5

Has anyone had Kris Deering calibrate their video/audio? He was one of the few calibrators I found on the west coast that will calibrate my 6050. Contacted some other folks but they said they only calibrate projectors they have sold to customers. Sounds like it will be a grand to get both audio and video done, which sounds about right from prices I've seen.


----------



## mon2479

KMR2 said:


> I'm thinking about getting this projector, and I'm split on what room to place it in and on what screen to use.
> 
> 1) There's my living room. This is where I'd like to place it, honestly, but the lighting situation isn't great, and I want to paint it lighter colors. Currently it's a light-ish gray.
> 
> I could go with an ALR screen to deal with the ambient light. Just not sure what screen to get if I go this route.
> 
> 2) I have a spare bedroom. I could paint it dark colors and control ambient light fairly well, compared to the living room. Could go with a more normal, non-ALR screen in this room.
> 
> What do you guys have going? Any living room setups? Bedroom setups? Wall colors, types of screens?


I have a dedicated theater room where I painted everything with rosco tv black paint and use a 125" silver ticket widescreen. Picture looks great, downside of the rosco, you cant touch it cause you leave smear marks on the wall. Make sure to have extra paint handy for those touch ups.


----------



## Kieran

Baron5 said:


> Has anyone had Kris Deering calibrate their video/audio? He was one of the few calibrators I found on the west coast that will calibrate my 6050. Contacted some other folks but they said they only calibrate projectors they have sold to customers. Sounds like it will be a grand to get both audio and video done, which sounds about right from prices I've seen.


I've not paid for an ISF calibration ever.  I prefer to DIY. It takes a lot of effort to study the display's settings and such, but so far I've not felt tweaking further past what I can do has ever been necessary, and I'm pretty picky with image quality.
That said, I've never tried to tune in a projector, as this Epson is my first, and I haven't yet even done the self calibration yet. Still breaking it in.
Have you tried going through the Spears & Munsil disc and their recommended calibration steps (on their website)? If not you might be surprised at how good it will look when you're done.

Also, what do you hope to gain from "audio calibration" that you can't get from something like Dirac Live, Audyssey, YPAO, MCACC, etc.? Anyone can get a decent calibrated mic and a copy of REW on a laptop. You might enjoy it if you want to tinker more than what the built-in room correction systems do.

Just a few thoughts. If you really want to just pay someone to do it for you, Kris is a good choice. I've heard great things about Chad B, too, who occasionally makes trips to the west if you're willing to wait. http://www.hdtvbychadb.com/


----------



## Kieran

mon2479 said:


> I have a dedicated theater room where I painted everything with rosco tv black paint and use a 125" silver ticket widescreen. Picture looks great, downside of the rosco, you cant touch it cause you leave smear marks on the wall. Make sure to have extra paint handy for those touch ups.


Nice use of a former "sectional" couch!


----------



## psyduck103

ccampbell said:


> Hey guys looking for some help and advice. I've owned my Epson 5050ub for a little over a year now, and I'm on my 4th one. The mother board keeps going out. The first time it went out they sent a refurbished one that lasted three weeks, and then they sent out a brand-new one, and it last seven months. I'm in the process of waiting for the next one to get here as I type. Epson I must say has great customer service as the have no problem fixing the issue but what happens when my warranty runs out I'm on my own. They said that no one else is having the problem I'm having. My home theater is running on two dedicated circuits and my projector is running off a Furman AC-215A compact Power Conditioner with auto-restting voltage protection. I can only think the next step would be to put the projector on a APC. Any help would be appreciated. This has been an awesome projector other than this one issue.
> View attachment 3119089
> 
> View attachment 3119090


I use these on all my low power electronics. $3000 pj $200 to protect it. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberp...-back-up-system-black/6408459.p?skuId=6408459


----------



## DaGamePimp

Baron5 said:


> Has anyone had Kris Deering calibrate their video/audio? He was one of the few calibrators I found on the west coast that will calibrate my 6050. Contacted some other folks but they said they only calibrate projectors they have sold to customers. Sounds like it will be a grand to get both audio and video done, which sounds about right from prices I've seen.


Kris is one of the most knowledgeable people out there, rest assured that it will be as good as it can be when he is done. 

- Jason


----------



## oachalon

I just ordered this projector and looking to see what wall mount does everyone recommend for this projector. I dont want to hang it from the ceiling but mount it to the wall. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I saw the chief single stud mount, but dont know if that is the best one for this projector or not.

Thanks,


----------



## Baron5

Kieran said:


> I've not paid for an ISF calibration ever. I prefer to DIY. It takes a lot of effort to study the display's settings and such, but so far I've not felt tweaking further past what I can do has ever been necessary, and I'm pretty picky with image quality.
> That said, I've never tried to tune in a projector, as this Epson is my first, and I haven't yet even done the self calibration yet. Still breaking it in.
> Have you tried going through the Spears & Munsil disc and their recommended calibration steps (on their website)? If not you might be surprised at how good it will look when you're done.
> 
> Also, what do you hope to gain from "audio calibration" that you can't get from something like Dirac Live, Audyssey, YPAO, MCACC, etc.? Anyone can get a decent calibrated mic and a copy of REW on a laptop. You might enjoy it if you want to tinker more than what the built-in room correction systems do.
> 
> Just a few thoughts. If you really want to just pay someone to do it for you, Kris is a good choice. I've heard great things about Chad B, too, who occasionally makes trips to the west if you're willing to wait. http://www.hdtvbychadb.com/


Thanks for the response Kieran. I hope to gain the experience and knowledge that an expert has over a part time hobbyist with some basic knowledge and a DVD/mic. Maybe I won't notice anything major but there's also a chance I'll be impressed. Either way, I will finally have the piece of mind that I have the best sound and picture a prefessional could get out of my equipment in my room. Not second guessing what can be tweaked next and just enjoying my set up will be worth the grand in and of itself. Always thought about getting calibrations but never pulled the trigger. Now that I have a new PJ and prepro, I feel the time is right.


----------



## nefrina

oachalon said:


> I just ordered this projector and looking to see what wall mount does everyone recommend for this projector. I dont want to hang it from the ceiling but mount it to the wall. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.


i recently built a shelf for my projector that's attached to my 2x4 wall framing using (2) 20"x13" everbilt brackets from home depot, with a piece 3/4" plywood on top (screwed together). the shelf is impervious to bass & at ~24x24" easily accommodates the projector with room to spare. i went with black brackets & wrapped the shelf in black velvet (like everything else in my room, hah!).

most tend to use ceiling mounts, but when attached to a suspended floor the bass will shake & vibrate the projector which isn't good. you could also recess the projector through your rear wall if you have room on the other side for a cleaner look.


----------



## PixelPusher15

serith said:


> i recently built a shelf for my projector that's attached to my 2x4 wall framing using (2) 20"x13" everbilt brackets from home depot, with a piece 3/4" plywood on top (screwed together). the shelf is impervious to bass & at ~24x24" easily accommodates the projector with room to spare. i went with black brackets & wrapped the shelf in black velvet (like everything else in my room, hah!).
> 
> most tend to use ceiling mounts, but when attached to a suspended floor the bass will shake & vibrate the projector which isn't good. you could also recess the projector through your rear wall if you have room on the other side for a cleaner look.
> 
> View attachment 3125081


What’s the little white guy there?


----------



## stevesieber

I'm not sure if this has been answered, but someone asked about resetting the lens shift position before transporting, found this in the manual, works perfect.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

Baron5 said:


> Has anyone had Kris Deering calibrate their video/audio? He was one of the few calibrators I found on the west coast that will calibrate my 6050. Contacted some other folks but they said they only calibrate projectors they have sold to customers. Sounds like it will be a grand to get both audio and video done, which sounds about right from prices I've seen.


Kris is one of the three best calibrators in the industry. $1K is a good deal for calibrating audio and video. Some people prefer an overly bright saturated picture. That will not be an accurate calibration. Accurate calibration will show more shadow detail and specular highlight detail than you previously viewed. Skin tones are less red and more accurate. Blacks will be less gray. Whites will not push green or blue. Some people, like myself, swear by a proper calibration. Others prefer bright , overly saturated images. Kris will do a fantastic job


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

KMR2 said:


> I'm thinking about getting this projector, and I'm split on what room to place it in and on what screen to use.
> 
> 1) There's my living room. This is where I'd like to place it, honestly, but the lighting situation isn't great, and I want to paint it lighter colors. Currently it's a light-ish gray.
> 
> I could go with an ALR screen to deal with the ambient light. Just not sure what screen to get if I go this route.
> 
> 2) I have a spare bedroom. I could paint it dark colors and control ambient light fairly well, compared to the living room. Could go with a more normal, non-ALR screen in this room.
> 
> What do you guys have going? Any living room setups? Bedroom setups? Wall colors, types of screens?


I would go for darker colored light controlled room. ALR Screens have their own issues such as hotspotting, poor off angle viewing, throw distance, angle of the projector, inaccurate colors, etc. ALR can be set up and executed properly but much more difficult than a white screen. More expensive as well. An ALR will never be as accurate as a white screen. Some people enjoy the contrast pop you typically get with an ALR screen even if it isn't as accurate.


----------



## stevesieber

So, just purchased the Epson 5050UB, hooking this up directly from my Xbox One X, a couple of things I noticed. First, switching from SDR to HDR content, there is a 3-5 second blank screen, this is some type of handshaking going on. On all HDR Youtube videos, when I click on the stream type of the video, it will never show 4K, even though I know this is 4k, it just shows HD. For Vudu, Netflix and other content, HDR displays as 4K, any thoughts?


----------



## PixelPusher15

stevesieber said:


> So, just purchased the Epson 5050UB, hooking this up directly from my Xbox One X, a couple of things I noticed. First, switching from SDR to HDR content, there is a 3-5 second blank screen, this is some type of handshaking going on. On all HDR Youtube videos, when I click on the stream type of the video, it will never show 4K, even though I know this is 4k, it just shows HD. For Vudu, Netflix and other content, HDR displays as 4K, any thoughts?


The handshake delay is normal. I've tried various projectors and they all have it to some extent. Some are a couple of seconds, some are up to 10 seconds. HDMI chain can affect it too. I can't weigh in on the YouTube HDR stuff since I don't have an Xbox One X.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

stevesieber said:


> So, just purchased the Epson 5050UB, hooking this up directly from my Xbox One X, a couple of things I noticed. First, switching from SDR to HDR content, there is a 3-5 second blank screen, this is some type of handshaking going on. On all HDR Youtube videos, when I click on the stream type of the video, it will never show 4K, even though I know this is 4k, it just shows HD. For Vudu, Netflix and other content, HDR displays as 4K, any thoughts?


I am sure you understand this, but just in case some may not, 4K and HDR are two different things. 4K refers to the resolution rate and HDR refers to the dynamic range of the content. Some 4K content is not encoded in HDR. Some 4K movies on VUDU are not encoded in HDR. Beverly Hills Cop is 4K on VUDU but received no HDR encode but the disc version has an HDR encode. So are you referring to 4K or HDR in regards to YouTube? Not all streamers support HDR when using YouTube. I don't own the Xbox One X . Is it possible that the YouTube App doesn't support HDR.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

stevesieber said:


> So, just purchased the Epson 5050UB, hooking this up directly from my Xbox One X, a couple of things I noticed. First, switching from SDR to HDR content, there is a 3-5 second blank screen, this is some type of handshaking going on. On all HDR Youtube videos, when I click on the stream type of the video, it will never show 4K, even though I know this is 4k, it just shows HD. For Vudu, Netflix and other content, HDR displays as 4K, any thoughts?


Youtube uses Hybrid Log Gamma which is another version of HDR designed for broadcast television. My guess is that the Xbox One X does not support HLG which is why you are able to receive HDR on Netflix, Prime, Vudu, etc since they are HDR and not HLG. Most streamers support HLG and HDR. The Epson projector supports both and you will see which one is being received in the HDR slider screen. As an example Fubotv uses HLG and HDR depending upon the streaming device. Most apps send HLG or HDR based open the capabilities of the streaming device. YouTube only sends HLG as far as I am aware .


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

stevesieber said:


> So, just purchased the Epson 5050UB, hooking this up directly from my Xbox One X, a couple of things I noticed. First, switching from SDR to HDR content, there is a 3-5 second blank screen, this is some type of handshaking going on. On all HDR Youtube videos, when I click on the stream type of the video, it will never show 4K, even though I know this is 4k, it just shows HD. For Vudu, Netflix and other content, HDR displays as 4K, any thoughts?





https://www.engadget.com/you-tube-finally-delivers-hdr-on-the-xbox-one-114053690.html?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbS8&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAK7efNF2KbwOOwDVqOK3JRKJEhx7qHzsMAEmEHW5I6FMoW_N2-OqdTeoWPX6ZfALWyRERMmbcBmQe5_I-MJTSktN3s9F6NoROLWsKiQVfubXnbzLGbJBO1CgRZcGNs4-gpwSptmXcPMETmUl1_tGwQiHlBCQAyMj7k6m_PZkHsiN


Sounds like XBOX ONE X started supporting HDR on YouTube in January 2021 via a firmware update. When was the last time you updated the firmware on your Xbox One X?


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

Sorry for hijacking the thread and going off topic. Any further discussion of the Xbox One X issue should probably go to the appropriate Xbox One X thread.


----------



## stevesieber

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> https://www.engadget.com/you-tube-finally-delivers-hdr-on-the-xbox-one-114053690.html?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbS8&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAK7efNF2KbwOOwDVqOK3JRKJEhx7qHzsMAEmEHW5I6FMoW_N2-OqdTeoWPX6ZfALWyRERMmbcBmQe5_I-MJTSktN3s9F6NoROLWsKiQVfubXnbzLGbJBO1CgRZcGNs4-gpwSptmXcPMETmUl1_tGwQiHlBCQAyMj7k6m_PZkHsiN
> 
> 
> Sounds like XBOX ONE X started supporting HDR on YouTube in January 2021 via a firmware update. When was the last time you updated the firmware on your Xbox One X?


I see the issue, I grabbed the Xbox One S for testing, based on the above article, it states the below.

YouTube HDR videos are also noticeably brighter and more colorful. The maximum resolution will depend on your console, with the Xbox Series X supporting 4K at up to 60 fps, and the Xbox One S delivering 1440p HDR at 60 fps. 

This makes sense now when viewing the detail of the video, it was maxing out at 1440p HDR. I have the Xbox One X which will eventually be in my new home theater, so all is good when I make the switch. Thanks so much for the reply.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

stevesieber said:


> I see the issue, I grabbed the Xbox One S for testing, based on the above article, it states the below.
> 
> YouTube HDR videos are also noticeably brighter and more colorful. The maximum resolution will depend on your console, with the Xbox Series X supporting 4K at up to 60 fps, and the Xbox One S delivering 1440p HDR at 60 fps.
> 
> This makes sense now when viewing the detail of the video, it was maxing out at 1440p HDR. I have the Xbox One X which will eventually be in my new home theater, so all is good when I make the switch. Thanks so much for the reply.


Very welcome. Glad to help. I enjoy troubleshooting 😁


----------



## Kieran

stevesieber said:


> I'm not sure if this has been answered, but someone asked about resetting the lens shift position before transporting, found this in the manual, works perfect.
> View attachment 3125141


OMG thanks! Not sure how I missed that, but I've been wanting to know how to do this!


----------



## fredworld

stevesieber said:


> I'm not sure if this has been answered, but someone asked about resetting the lens shift position before transporting, found this in the manual, works perfect.
> View attachment 3125141


Wouldn't the RESET LENS POSITION from the LENS MEMORY menu do the same?


----------



## stevesieber

fredworld said:


> Wouldn't the RESET LENS POSITION from the LENS MEMORY menu do the same?


It doesn't, it just resets different saved lens memory positions, not he lens shift position.


----------



## stevesieber

Kieran said:


> OMG thanks! Not sure how I missed that, but I've been wanting to know how to do this!


You got it, glad to share!


----------



## Kieran

stevesieber said:


> It doesn't, it just resets different saved lens memory positions, not he lens shift position.


Was just about to type the same thing.


----------



## keep amonte

I had a new 6050 professionally installed in January. Day 1 noticed some faint vertical lines in background mostly on bright white background scenes like hockey. Too faint for a picture to show. I watch a lot of NHL with the Center Ice package. The day of the instal, the installer said the lines were most likely related to Direct Tv's crappy picture. He noted it and said to let the bulb burn in and try other sources (much less noticeable on ATV4K apps like NHL Network, Youtube etc. Well the burn in didn't help (as I thought) and he brought his Epson rep out to evaluate ( yes we eliminated HDMI and Marantz SR7012). It replaced an old Panasonic PT-AE4000U with a failing motherboard and tons of artifacts so it was hard to compare. The Epson rep told me its not the projector. I also noticed that twice, the projector just intermittantly turned itself off as we were watching tv. He was more concerned about that and went through all the power settings to make sure the sleep timer or other settings were causing this. Well, the other night it shut down again so I put a call into the installer and we're awaiting what Epson says. Bummer, but hopefully the replacement unit will eliminate both issues. I'm using a new SI Fixed 16:9 110 Slate 1.2 screen.


----------



## nefrina

PixelPusher15 said:


> What’s the little white guy there?


one of my many ecobee sensors for my thermostat. no other good location in the room, haha.


----------



## DarrinH

I too have the handshake issue with my 5050UB. Was wondering if there was a fix as it is very annoying when the room is dark and the movie is to start. It happened four times when we started Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince last weekend. I updated to the latest firmware as well. When I say 4 times, we saw the blue screen flash four times before the image came on.


----------



## PixelPusher15

DarrinH said:


> I too have the handshake issue with my 5050UB. Was wondering if there was a fix as it is very annoying when the room is dark and the movie is to start. It happened four times when we started Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince last weekend. I updated to the latest firmware as well. When I say 4 times, we saw the blue screen flash four times before the image came on.


I never get a blue screen. I wonder if it would help to change the Display Background. Mine is set to black which is way less jarring when it comes up. I didn't know if it flashes a screen that is tied to this setting during the handshake delay. The setting is under Extended > Display... > Display Background. Obviously this won't shorten the delay, just make it less jarring.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

keep amonte said:


> I had a new 6050 professionally installed in January. Day 1 noticed some faint vertical lines in background mostly on bright white background scenes like hockey. Too faint for a picture to show. I watch a lot of NHL with the Center Ice package. The day of the instal, the installer said the lines were most likely related to Direct Tv's crappy picture. He noted it and said to let the bulb burn in and try other sources (much less noticeable on ATV4K apps like NHL Network, Youtube etc. Well the burn in didn't help (as I thought) and he brought his Epson rep out to evaluate ( yes we eliminated HDMI and Marantz SR7012). It replaced an old Panasonic PT-AE4000U with a failing motherboard and tons of artifacts so it was hard to compare. The Epson rep told me its not the projector. I also noticed that twice, the projector just intermittantly turned itself off as we were watching tv. He was more concerned about that and went through all the power settings to make sure the sleep timer or other settings were causing this. Well, the other night it shut down again so I put a call into the installer and we're awaiting what Epson says. Bummer, but hopefully the replacement unit will eliminate both issues. I'm using a new SI Fixed 16:9 110 Slate 1.2 screen.


Do the white lines appear on the blue screen image screen? Seems very odd. Turning on and off is usually when watching through a SET TOP BOX and even though you are still watching the projector doesn't detect a signal so it goes into standby mode due to inactivity. Does it happen only with the Set top box?


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

keep amonte said:


> I had a new 6050 professionally installed in January. Day 1 noticed some faint vertical lines in background mostly on bright white background scenes like hockey. Too faint for a picture to show. I watch a lot of NHL with the Center Ice package. The day of the instal, the installer said the lines were most likely related to Direct Tv's crappy picture. He noted it and said to let the bulb burn in and try other sources (much less noticeable on ATV4K apps like NHL Network, Youtube etc. Well the burn in didn't help (as I thought) and he brought his Epson rep out to evaluate ( yes we eliminated HDMI and Marantz SR7012). It replaced an old Panasonic PT-AE4000U with a failing motherboard and tons of artifacts so it was hard to compare. The Epson rep told me its not the projector. I also noticed that twice, the projector just intermittantly turned itself off as we were watching tv. He was more concerned about that and went through all the power settings to make sure the sleep timer or other settings were causing this. Well, the other night it shut down again so I put a call into the installer and we're awaiting what Epson says. Bummer, but hopefully the replacement unit will eliminate both issues. I'm using a new SI Fixed 16:9 110 Slate 1.2 screen.


I had a similar problem a couple years back. My Epson Home Cinema 5040 was powering off randomly when I was using my STB. It was the HDMI-CEC (called "HDMI Link") that was causing problems. STB was sending out "go to sleep" CEC messages after no remote activity for so many minutes. Once I turned off the "HDMI Link" on my projector, the powering-off problems ceased. The NVIDIA SHIELD will do the same thing as well.


----------



## keep amonte

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> I had a similar problem a couple years back. My Epson Home Cinema 5040 was powering off randomly when I was using my STB. It was the HDMI-CEC (called "HDMI Link") that was causing problems. STB was sending out "go to sleep" CEC messages after no remote activity for so many minutes. Once I turned off the "HDMI Link" on my projector, the powering-off problems ceased. The NVIDIA SHIELD will do the same thing as well.


I just went up and checked the HDMI Link option of the 6050 and it was on. I turned it off and will see if this helps. Thanks. My only pause is the last two times, I was not really watching the same program for inactivity to occur. All other HDMI functions are inactive (ARC) except for Enhanced HDMI on my AVT..


----------



## keep amonte

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> Do the white lines appear on the blue screen image screen? Seems very odd. Turning on and off is usually when watching through a SET TOP BOX and even though you are still watching the projector doesn't detect a signal so it goes into standby mode due to inactivity. Does it happen only with the Set top box?


The lines are kinda grayish and very subtle and faded. Occurs on Directv HD & 4K, Apple TV 4K, and all of my streaming apps, Redbull TV, Netflix, Amazon, Youtube, NBC &CBS Sports etc. Definitely easier to see the artifacts in a completely dim room. The Epson rep was perplexed for sure. I even had Directv send me a new 4K mini receiver to rule that out.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

keep amonte said:


> The lines are kinda grayish and very subtle and faded. Occurs on Directv HD & 4K, Apple TV 4K, and all of my streaming apps, Redbull TV, Netflix, Amazon, Youtube, NBC &CBS Sports etc. Definitely easier to see the artifacts in a completely dim room. The Epson rep was perplexed for sure. I even had Directv send me a new 4K mini receiver to rule that out.


When you use the screen alignment do you see still see the lines? Trying to determine if you see the lines even when a source is not being displayed. Have you tried scrolling the image left/right up/down off your screen just to rule out the screen?


----------



## keep amonte

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> When you use the screen alignment do you see still see the lines? Trying to determine if you see the lines even when a source is not being displayed. Have you tried scrolling the image left/right up/down off your screen just to rule out the screen?


The lines are absent on the RBG screens as well as screen alignment as also.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

keep amonte said:


> I just went up and checked the HDMI Link option of the 6050 and it was on. I turned it off and will see if this helps. Thanks. My only pause is the last two times, I was not really watching the same program for inactivity to occur. All other HDMI functions are inactive (ARC) except for Enhanced HDMI on my AVT..


I would also make sure HDMI CEC is turned off in all of your devices as well. It goes by different names depending upon the brand/device.


----------



## keep amonte

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> I would also make sure HDMI CEC is turned off in all of your devices as well. It goes by different names depending upon the brand/device.


Already complete, thanks


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

keep amonte said:


> The lines are absent on the RBG screens as well as screen alignment as also.


Have you tried connecting directly from source device to the projector and see if the issue is still present? If you connect to HDMI 2 is the issue still present?


----------



## keep amonte

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> Have you tried connecting directly from source device to the projector and see if the issue is still present? If you connect to HDMI 2 is the issue still present?


We have tried HDMI input 2 on the projector with the same result. The installer did not have another 45ft HDMI cable mine is fished through wall and ceiling) to try that as that was my suggestion as well. It's in the installers/Epson's hands now.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

keep amonte said:


> We have tried HDMI input 2 on the projector with the same result. The installer did not have another 45ft HDMI cable mine is fished through wall and ceiling) to try that as that was my suggestion as well. It's in the installers/Epson's hands now.


Might not hurt just to buy a cheap 4K streaming stick and plug it directly into the projector to see if you still get the lines. Sure hope you have conduit going from projector to AVR. Epson sometimes has to be encouraged to resolve issues.


----------



## DarrinH

PixelPusher15 said:


> I never get a blue screen. I wonder if it would help to change the Display Background. Mine is set to black which is way less jarring when it comes up. I didn't know if it flashes a screen that is tied to this setting during the handshake delay. The setting is under Extended > Display... > Display Background. Obviously this won't shorten the delay, just make it less jarring.


Thanks for that. I will definitely change it.


----------



## amarkow

I'm replacing my failing 5040 with the 5050. I put many hours into the settings on my 5040 for both SDR and HDR, and utilized recommendations from this forum. I haven't found a similar set of recommendations here (at least "search" did not show up any settings, and the pages I did review did not either). Are there sample settings for the 5050, or does it have built-in accurate settings for the switch between HD and 4K images?


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

amarkow said:


> I'm replacing my failing 5040 with the 5050. I put many hours into the settings on my 5040 for both SDR and HDR, and utilized recommendations from this forum. I haven't found a similar set of recommendations here (at least "search" did not show up any settings, and the pages I did review did not either). Are there sample settings for the 5050, or does it have built-in accurate settings for the switch between HD and 4K images?


Scroll down closer to the bottom of this link. YMMV. Each projector is different. Not as cut and paste as television settings from one unit to another. You own a 5040 so you know. There was a firmware update for the 5050 over a year ago. Helped with HDR. The Dreaming Cinema


----------



## PixelPusher15

amarkow said:


> I'm replacing my failing 5040 with the 5050. I put many hours into the settings on my 5040 for both SDR and HDR, and utilized recommendations from this forum. I haven't found a similar set of recommendations here (at least "search" did not show up any settings, and the pages I did review did not either). Are there sample settings for the 5050, or does it have built-in accurate settings for the switch between HD and 4K images?


SDR and HDR don't auto switch color modes, sadly. I'd get the Spears and Munsil disc if I were you. There's so many variables with a projector setup that settings just don't transfer from one projector to another that well. Maybe you'll get lucky and the person you are using the settings from has a similar setup, maybe you're unlucky and it looks like butt. lol. I use a light silver spandex screen and I know there's not many of those floating around, most people's settings just won't work on my screen.

Some things can be taken by doing some averaging of others settings. I've found that most think the 5050 runs cooler (blue and some green push) and that gamma should be set at -1 or -2 depending on screen. But throw those out the window if you are using an odd screen.


----------



## amarkow

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> Scroll down closer to the bottom of this link. YMMV. Each projector is different. Not as cut and paste as television settings from one unit to another. You own a 5040 so you know. There was a firmware update for the 5050 over a year ago. Helped with HDR. The Dreaming Cinema



Thanks. I'm reviewing it now. Apparently not as straightforward as the 5040 where I had a set of numbers recommended by some expert forum members. Those gave me a starting point. Every room/screen/PJ is different, so I recognize the need to customize. I also have a few set-up discs, including Spears and Munsell. Truthfully, I find S&M a bit difficult for someone with my experience.


----------



## amarkow

PixelPusher15 said:


> SDR and HDR don't auto switch color modes, sadly. I'd get the Spears and Munsil disc if I were you. There's so many variables with a projector setup that settings just don't transfer from one projector to another that well. Maybe you'll get lucky and the person you are using the settings from has a similar setup, maybe you're unlucky and it looks like butt. lol. I use a light silver spandex screen and I know there's not many of those floating around, most people's settings just won't work on my screen.


I also have a silver screen (106" Stewart), so some of what you did might work for me. As noted above, I have Spears and Munsell but have found it difficult to use. Maybe I just need to give it another try with more concentration on my part. Since we have similar screens, you may have additional specific suggestions.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

amarkow said:


> Thanks. I'm reviewing it now. Apparently not as straightforward as the 5040 where I had a set of numbers recommended by some expert forum members. Those gave me a starting point. Every room/screen/PJ is different, so I recognize the need to customize. I also have a few set-up discs, including Spears and Munsell. Truthfully, I find S&M a bit difficult for someone with my experience.


There are some specific settings on the link I sent you. These have been in this thread since 2019 so they have been used by many of the 5050/6050 owners in this thread. As @PixelPusher15 pointed out there are so many variables, i.e., screen size, screen material, throw distance, lamp brightness, etc., that the settings may work for you or they may be garbage. But at least you will have a reference point.


----------



## PixelPusher15

amarkow said:


> I also have a silver screen (106" Stewart), so some of what you did might work for me. As noted above, I have Spears and Munsell but have found it difficult to use. Maybe I just need to give it another try with more concentration on my part. Since we have similar screens, you may have additional specific suggestions.


My silver spandex probably is quite as good as your Stewart lol. I used HCFR to calibrate mine and ended up using a custom gamma for both SDR and HDR, so my greyscale settings for you probably won't apply. Also, I can visibly see that my silver screen has a slightly cooler tint and I'm pretty sure my setup pushes bluer than most. I'd feel like I'd be doing you a disservice by sharing my settings. 

Read through what @Keepingupwiththejones shared, as well as the review and calibration settings on Projector Reviews: Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews

Things aren't that different than the 5040 but Art outlines which color modes to use for what purposes, the why, and what the trade-offs are.


----------



## amarkow

Thanks Pixel and KeepingUp.


----------



## psyduck103

PixelPusher15 said:


> What’s the little white guy there?


That is a sensor for his connected thermostat for HVAC.


----------



## PixelPusher15

psyduck103 said:


> That is a sensor for his connected thermostat for HVAC.


Yeah I saw that. I feel like if I put mine right next to the projector my house/room would be freezing, haha


----------



## garnuts

oachalon said:


> I just ordered this projector and looking to see what wall mount does everyone recommend for this projector. I dont want to hang it from the ceiling but mount it to the wall. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I saw the chief single stud mount, but dont know if that is the best one for this projector or not.
> 
> Thanks,


I've used this for the past 6 years and 3 projectors, with the 5050 currently. 

It's very stable when attached to a stud, and looks great too. Mine is mounted giving about 4-5 inches clearance from the top of the PJ to the ceiling.



https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EGI7V4/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Orwellflash

amarkow said:


> Thanks Pixel and KeepingUp.


I used HCFR for my 5030 SDR (and the Sharp before it)--got excellent results. Since I am still breaking in my new 5050, I am using the settings from Projector Reviews and Secrets of Home Theater Review, especially where the two agreed. I am using a Stewart (Cima) Neva 1.1 gain 110" screen, and have a bat cave room. I am totally satisfied with the image in both SDR and HDR. I may not bother with doing a calibration since I end up spending a solid week messing with it and my color meter is probably unreliable now, being 7 years old. SHT link below:








Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com


Epson’s Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector delivers a sharp bright image with superb color accuracy and contrast. For just $3000, you get Ultra HD...




hometheaterhifi.com


----------



## PixelPusher15

Orwellflash said:


> I used HCFR for my 5030 SDR (and the Sharp before it)--got excellent results. Since I am still breaking in my new 5050, I am using the settings from Projector Reviews and Secrets of Home Theater Review, especially where the two agreed. I am using a Stewart (Cima) Neva 1.1 gain 110" screen, and have a bat cave room. I am totally satisfied with the image in both SDR and HDR. I may not bother with doing a calibration since I end up spending a solid week messing with it and my color meter is probably unreliable now, being 7 years old. SHT link below:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com
> 
> 
> Epson’s Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector delivers a sharp bright image with superb color accuracy and contrast. For just $3000, you get Ultra HD...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hometheaterhifi.com


I used an almost 10-year-old i1 Display LT with HCFR to calibrate mine and got great results for SDR. Still trying to figure out HDR calibration....it ain't easy nor as straightforward as SDR.


----------



## Orwellflash

That's encouraging about your Display LT. I have the ColorMunki Display. Good to know that I shouldn't toss it, or try to have it recalibrated. Yeah, I am intimidated by the challenges of calibrating HDR. I hope I continue to be satisfied with the settings I have. It was fun learning how to use HCFR, but I have forgotten much of it, and it was very time consuming. Moreover, most of what I watch these days is streamed, so I don't have a HDR player.


----------



## nefrina

PixelPusher15 said:


> Yeah I saw that. I feel like if I put mine right next to the projector my house/room would be freezing, haha


it's really the only place i can put it where the sensor has clear line of sight (and isn't falling or vibrating around from the bass in the room). i have sensors in every room of the house and the ecobee averages all of them together. it's actually very helpful in the spring/summer/autumn when the room is very warm (when it's in use) as it helps raise the average temperature of the house which will kick on the AC faster (which is ideal if the room is being used). in the winter i have the thermostat ignore the room temperature as the room is easily the coolest in the house when not in use, and the warmest when i'm down there (2" xps owens corning foam against the concrete block and rock wool in the 2x4 cavities).

i can't recommend the ecobee enough. between the sensors, web/mobile UI, reports you can run, and sleek hardware it's worth every penny.


----------



## oachalon

garnuts said:


> I've used this for the past 6 years and 3 projectors, with the 5050 currently.
> 
> It's very stable when attached to a stud, and looks great too. Mine is mounted giving about 4-5 inches clearance from the top of the PJ to the ceiling.
> 
> 
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EGI7V4/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3125651


Thanks, i ordered one!!


----------



## pappy97

Just ordered a brand new Epson 5050ub to replace my Epson 8700ub which I purchased in April 2012. Man am I EXCITED!!

Anyone else go from 8700 to 5050? Did the 5050 just blow you away in comparison to 8700? I assume so, but would love to hear from anyone.


----------



## nefrina

pappy97 said:


> Just ordered a brand new Epson 5050ub to replace my Epson 8700ub which I purchased in April 2012. Man am I EXCITED!!
> 
> Anyone else go from 8700 to 5050? Did the 5050 just blow you away in comparison to 8700? I assume so, but would love to hear from anyone.


i went from a 2017 home cinema 2150 to the 6050 and the upgrade was enormous. i would think yours will be even more so. enjoy!


----------



## wickedg8gt

Well guys, I have been a long time AVSF member and have owned several projectors with several different screens. My current is the 5020 with a Silver Ticket 110in white screen. And I'm finally pulling the trigger and upgrading to the 5050. Now I just hope a 5060 doesnt come out soon. Lol. I've read thru almost 300 pages. So bare with me with the dumb questions I may ask. Thanks. Love AVSF.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

wickedg8gt said:


> Well guys, I have been a long time AVSF member and have owned several projectors with several different screens. My current is the 5020 with a Silver Ticket 110in white screen. And I'm finally pulling the trigger and upgrading to the 5050. Now I just hope a 5060 doesnt come out soon. Lol. I've read thru almost 300 pages. So bare with me with the dumb questions I may ask. Thanks. Love AVSF.


With the shortage of components, supply chain issues and logistical nightmares with global distribution I don't think we will see new home projectors from Epson or JVC this year. I think even next year is in question. Projector technology isn't like television technology. It moves glacially. Manufacturers have to decide whether HDMI 2.1 needs to be implemented into projectors. I believe we will only see that in dedicated gaming projectors. I think Epson will implement dynamic tone mapping in the next generation and that will be about it. No HDMI 2.1 , no 8K.


----------



## nefrina

wickedg8gt said:


> And I'm finally pulling the trigger and upgrading to the 5050. Now I just hope a 5060 doesnt come out soon.


iirc the 5040 was released in 2016, and the 5050 in 2019. so it's possible we might see the new unit next year, who knows. i'm extremely happy with the current model and can't think of any must have features in the new one beyond wanting better contrast & more light output. native 4k would be nice but don't see it happening at this price point.


----------



## PixelPusher15

serith said:


> iirc the 5040 was released in 2016, and the 5050 in 2019. so it's possible we might see the new unit next year, who knows. i'm extremely happy with the current model and can't think of any must have features in the new one beyond wanting better contrast & more light output. native 4k would be nice but don't see it happening at this price point.


I can’t remember if you said you had or not, but did you have yours calibrated?

I’m kinda keeping a mental tally of those that complain about HDR and who don’t and whether they had it calibrated or not. Also, if they’re using a BD player.


----------



## RVD26

Do you guys think a 5050 requires a dedicated outlet or is it fine on a shared circuit? I just got a quote from an electrician to install a dedicated outlet on the ceiling for $1,050. Just wondering if that's too much what I'm needing. The room will also have a Yamaha TRS-7790BL AVR, 3 JBL 590s, 4 JBL 530s and 2 Monolith 10" subs.


----------



## nefrina

PixelPusher15 said:


> I can’t remember if you said you had or not, but did you have yours calibrated?
> 
> I’m kinda keeping a mental tally of those that complain about HDR and who don’t and whether they had it calibrated or not. Also, if they’re using a BD player.


no, mine is not calibrated. i know this sounds blasphemous but i prefer to adjust the picture to what i think looks good. same idea with manually adjusting speaker levels. i think audyssey does an awful job. imo, the picture quality settings out of the box are pretty damn good. i only needed to make a small handful of minor adjustments to be completely happy with how it looks.


----------



## wickedg8gt

Yeah I kinda figured we wouldnt see any new projectors coming out. Which is fine. Lol. But I still need other components to get started. I need a new 4k reciever and new ceiling mount. I read that a fiber optic hdmi is better than a regular hdmi for this projector. If im missing anything else, please let me know. I already have screen and SS.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

RVD26 said:


> Do you guys think a 5050 requires a dedicated outlet or is it fine on a shared circuit? I just got a quote from an electrician to install a dedicated outlet on the ceiling for $1,050. Just wondering if that's too much what I'm needing. The room will also have a Yamaha TRS-7790BL AVR, 3 JBL 590s, 4 JBL 530s and 2 Monolith 10" subs.


I had 3 5040 projectors that stopped working due to power supply issues and a 5050 that was starting to power cycle off and give me the same yellow flashing light. All 4 of those projectors were into a power conditioner via an extension cord which the Epson manual states is acceptable. I subsequently had an electrician install a dedicated line and outlet directly to my projector location before receiving my Epson 6050 which Epson graciously upgraded for free from the 5040 to 5050 to finally 6050. I have now been running the 6050 issue free since May 2019 with almost 3000 hours on my 6050. I am not saying the dedicated line and outlet is the reason all the issues disappeared but it is pretty coincidental. It could have been the combination of extension cord and non dedicated outlet exacerbating the well known and documented 5040 Power Supply issues. If you provide more of an explanation of your setup I could provide more of an opinion on your particular situation, i.e. , are you using an extension cord, are you plugging directly into a wall outlet, are you plugging into a power conditioner or power strip, etc.


----------



## Orwellflash

wickedg8gt said:


> Yeah I kinda figured we wouldnt see any new projectors coming out. Which is fine. Lol. But I still need other components to get started. I need a new 4k reciever and new ceiling mount. I read that a fiber optic hdmi is better than a regular hdmi for this projector. If im missing anything else, please let me know. I already have screen and SS.


For the price of a good AVR, I bought a new Macbook Air M1. It does a great job streaming 4K HDR, and I use it as my primary laptop when I am not using it in the theather. I send the video via 4K 60hz hdmi copper (($17), and the audio to my wonderful 20-year-old JVC RX-DP9 AV Receiver (brought it out of mothballs when my 2015 AVR failed after only 3 years) via headphone jack or my OPPO 93 via 5.1 analog or digital. We listen most of the time through headphones but have KEF LS50's when we have guests. Obviously, this setup is not for everyone, but turned out to be an excellent alternative for us.


----------



## RVD26

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> I had 3 5040 projectors that stopped working due to power supply issues and a 5050 that was starting to power cycle off and give me the same yellow flashing light. All 4 of those projectors were into a power conditioner via an extension cord which the Epson manual states is acceptable. I subsequently had an electrician install a dedicated line and outlet directly to my projector location before receiving my Epson 6050 which Epson graciously upgraded for free from the 5040 to 5050 to finally 6050. I have now been running the 6050 issue free since May 2019 with almost 3000 hours on my 6050. I am not saying the dedicated line and outlet is the reason all the issues disappeared but it is pretty coincidental. It could have been the combination of extension cord and non dedicated outlet exacerbating the well known and documented 5040 Power Supply issues. If you provide more of an explanation of your setup I could provide more of an opinion on your particular situation, i.e. , are you using an extension cord, are you plugging directly into a wall outlet, are you plugging into a power conditioner or power strip, etc.


No extension cords, power conditioner or power strip for the projector. It will be plugged into an outlet in the ceiling. Just trying to determine if that outlet should be dedicated or not.
The Yamaha AVR will be plugged into a CyberPower 1500VA / 900Watts True Sine Wave Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) along with a Nvidia Shield Pro.
The subwoofers will be plugged directly into wall outlets.


----------



## nefrina

Orwellflash said:


> For the price of a gord AVR, I bought a new Macbook Air m1. It does a great job streaming 4K HDR., and I use it as my primary laptop when I am not using it in the theather. I send the video via 4K 60hz hdmi copper (($17), and the audio to my wonderful 20-year-old JVC RX-DP9 AV Receiver (brought it out of mothballs when my 2015 AVR failed after only 3 years) via headphone jack or my OPPO 93 via 5.1 analog or digital. We listen most of the time through headphones but have KEF LS50's when we have guests. Obviously, this setup is not for everyone, but turned out to be an excellent alternative for us.


or just buy last years tech refurbished for substantially less than new at retail prices. i'd never buy a new AVR. let it overheat/fail/blowup, have it fixed & buy it for less with a warranty from an authorized seller online.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> I had 3 5040 projectors that stopped working due to power supply issues and a 5050 that was starting to power cycle off and give me the same yellow flashing light. All 4 of those projectors were into a power conditioner via an extension cord which the Epson manual states is acceptable. I subsequently had an electrician install a dedicated line and outlet directly to my projector location before receiving my Epson 6050 which Epson graciously upgraded for free from the 5040 to 5050 to finally 6050. I have now been running the 6050 issue free since May 2019 with almost 3000 hours on my 6050. I am not saying the dedicated line and outlet is the reason all the issues disappeared but it is pretty coincidental. It could have been the combination of extension cord and non dedicated outlet exacerbating the well known and documented 5040 Power Supply issues. If you provide more of an explanation of your setup I could provide more of an opinion on your particular situation, i.e. , are you using an extension cord, are you plugging directly into a wall outlet, are you plugging into a power conditioner or power strip, etc.


Someone else not long ago, I thought it was in this thread, posted that they had their 5050 burn through two motherboards if I’m not mistaken. They had it plugged into a power conditioner that was there for both burnouts. I recently saw on Reddit a commenter who said that some power conditioners (Furman?) can short out internally and fry some electronics. (He fixed and installed electronics for a living). Not saying power conditioners are bad but I’m a little suspicious after recent reading.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

RVD26 said:


> No extension cords, power conditioner or power strip for the projector. It will be plugged into an outlet in the ceiling. Just trying to determine if that outlet should be dedicated or not.
> The Yamaha AVR will be plugged into a CyberPower 1500VA / 900Watts True Sine Wave Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) along with a Nvidia Shield Pro.
> The subwoofers will be plugged directly into wall outlets.


Projectors don't draw much power. I don't feel like you need a dedicated line and this is coming from a guy who had one installed. You already have an outlet in the ceiling. For peace of mind I would just plug one of these into your ceiling outlet: 





WattBox® Power Surge Single Outlet Wall Tap


Surge Protector | 1 Outlet




www.snapav.com


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

PixelPusher15 said:


> Someone else not long ago, I thought it was in this thread, posted that they had their 5050 burn through two motherboards if I’m not mistaken. They had it plugged into a power conditioner that was there for both burnouts. I recently saw on Reddit a commenter who said that some power conditioners (Furman?) can short out internally and fry some electronics. (He fixed and installed electronics for a living). Not saying power conditioners are bad but I’m a little suspicious after recent reading.


It is an interesting thought but without more data points and research I think the only conclusion that can be drawn is that electronics fail, for a variety of reasons 🤣😅


----------



## PixelPusher15

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> It is an interesting thought but without more data points and research I think the only conclusion that can be drawn is that electronics fail, for a variety of reasons 🤣😅


I agree, and unfortunately that means the electronics that are supposed to protect the electronics can fail, making the others fail

I just have always bought good quality surge protectors and call it good. I’ve been lucky to not have a power related failure before.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Projectors do not require a dedicated power line (on it's own circuit breaker) but I would suggest a true sine wave UPS so that it can be shut down properly should the power fail.

Obviously make sure that the shared power line is not being overloaded or right at its limit and avoid using the same line (circuit breaker) as large appliances (window/portable AC units, refrigerators/freezers, microwaves, etc.).

- Jason


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

DaGamePimp said:


> Projectors do not require a dedicated power line (on it's own circuit breaker) but I would suggest a true sine wave UPS so that it can be shut down properly should the power fail.
> 
> Obviously make sure that the shared power line is not being overloaded or right at its limit and avoid using the same line (circuit breaker) as large appliances (window/portable AC units, refrigerators/freezers, microwaves, etc.).
> 
> - Jason


This is excellent advice


----------



## RVD26

DaGamePimp said:


> Projectors do not require a dedicated power line (on it's own circuit breaker) but I would suggest a true sine wave UPS so that it can be shut down properly should the power fail.
> 
> Obviously make sure that the shared power line is not being overloaded or right at its limit and avoid using the same line (circuit breaker) as large appliances (window/portable AC units, refrigerators/freezers, microwaves, etc.).
> 
> - Jason


There are no other major components or appliances on the same breaker as the media room. The media room has its own breaker.
I already have a CyberPower 1500VA / 900Watts True Sine Wave Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) that I plan to plug my AVR and Nvidia Shield Pro into.
I would also like to plug in the projector to the UPS, but I'm still struggling on how to do that (I've asked this question before on the board) when the projector is on the ceiling and the UPS is on the floor.


----------



## RVD26

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> Projectors don't draw much power. I don't feel like you need a dedicated line and this is coming from a guy who had one installed. You already have an outlet in the ceiling. For peace of mind I would just plug one of these into your ceiling outlet:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WattBox® Power Surge Single Outlet Wall Tap
> 
> 
> Surge Protector | 1 Outlet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.snapav.com


I DON'T have an outlet in the ceiling right now. I'm just trying to determine if a new outlet I put there should be dedicated or not.


----------



## RVD26

Could I install something like THIS on the ceiling for the projector and run it to an already existing outlet closer to the ground?


----------



## arnemetis

RVD26 said:


> Could I install something like THIS on the ceiling for the projector and run it to an already existing outlet closer to the ground?


This is exactly what I did (different brand but same idea,) this also allows the projector to be on my ups along with the receiver and nvidia shield. It's exactly what I was going to recommend. Been about four or five years since I finished the renovation, been working without issue since. Upgraded to the 5050ub last year from a BenQ ht1075, but no need to change the wiring.


----------



## RVD26

arnemetis said:


> This is exactly what I did (different brand but same idea,) this also allows the projector to be on my ups along with the receiver and nvidia shield. It's exactly what I was going to recommend. Been about four or five years since I finished the renovation, been working without issue since. Upgraded to the 5050ub last year from a BenQ ht1075, but no need to change the wiring.


Yes, this is exactly the setup I need. Same devices too. Would you mind sending a PM with pictures of your setup? I'll understand it a lot better with pictures. Thanks


----------



## Kieran

RVD26 said:


> Yes, this is exactly the setup I need. Same devices too. Would you mind sending a PM with pictures of your setup? I'll understand it a lot better with pictures. Thanks


Just curious, since you got a quote from an electrician for a dedicated line, did you also get a quote for a non-dedicated line installed? The difference should be minimal. Most of the cost is the labor and romex to run from the panel to the pj location. Making it dedicated is simple at that point. If you're going to be snaking wires through walls anyway (or paying someone to do so) I'd go ahead and make it dedicated. That said, if you plan to hook everything to a conditioner, then you don't want power there anyway; you just want an extension from the conditioner.


----------



## wickedg8gt

What is the preffered ceiling mount; the RPA357? Does that come with a plate along with the ceiling mount?

And from what I've read, it seems a fiber optic hdmi cord is preffered over a regular hdmi. What is everyones go to for f.o. hdmi?


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

wickedg8gt said:


> What is the preffered ceiling mount; the RPA357? Does that come with a plate along with the ceiling mount?
> 
> And from what I've read, it seems a fiber optic hdmi cord is preffered over a regular hdmi. What is everyones go to for f.o. hdmi?


Ruipro has 4K and 8k that have been used successfully by many Epson and JVC users on the forum. Bluejeans non fiber HDMI cables have been used successfully by forum users. 20ft or over I tend to think you want fiber optic. There is a dedicated thread for HDMI cables on the forum for more opinions and experiences.


----------



## wickedg8gt

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> Ruipro has 4K and 8k that have been used successfully by many Epson and JVC users on the forum. Bluejeans non fiber HDMI cables have been used successfully by forum users. 20ft or over I tend to think you want fiber optic. There is a dedicated thread for HDMI cables on the forum for more opinions and experiences.


Thank you very much. I will def take a look at the hdmi section. Yes I need about a 15-20 foot run.


----------



## RVD26

Kieran said:


> Just curious, since you got a quote from an electrician for a dedicated line, did you also get a quote for a non-dedicated line installed? The difference should be minimal. Most of the cost is the labor and romex to run from the panel to the pj location. Making it dedicated is simple at that point. If you're going to be snaking wires through walls anyway (or paying someone to do so) I'd go ahead and make it dedicated. That said, if you plan to hook everything to a conditioner, then you don't want power there anyway; you just want an extension from the conditioner.


No, I did not get a quote for a non-dedicated line. He said he could attach to a nearby outlet for $175, which is a lot better than over $1k.
The consensus here seems to be that a dedicated line is overkill.
I am not hooking up to a power conditioner, just a UPS.


----------



## RVD26

wickedg8gt said:


> What is the preffered ceiling mount; the RPA357? Does that come with a plate along with the ceiling mount?
> 
> And from what I've read, it seems a fiber optic hdmi cord is preffered over a regular hdmi. What is everyones go to for f.o. hdmi?


I'm curious to know which mount folks here prefer as well. I'm still waiting to purchase mine.


----------



## RVD26

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> Ruipro has 4K and 8k that have been used successfully by many Epson and JVC users on the forum. Bluejeans non fiber HDMI cables have been used successfully by forum users. 20ft or over I tend to think you want fiber optic. There is a dedicated thread for HDMI cables on the forum for more opinions and experiences.


I purchased these HDMI cables from Monoprice. I have a run from the ceiling to the back of the room that is probably 15ft. Do you think this will be okay?


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

RVD26 said:


> I purchased these HDMI cables from Monoprice. I have a run from the ceiling to the back of the room that is probably 15ft. Do you think this will be okay?


Might be okay. I would try it and see what results you get.


----------



## amarkow

I put my 5050 in yesterday and am working on calibrations today. What's the correct greyscale adjustment level # for HD and for 4K?


----------



## Kieran

amarkow said:


> I put my 5050 in yesterday and am working on calibrations today. What's the correct greyscale adjustment level # for HD and for 4K?


As has been said many times in every display-device-specific forum, you can't copy someone else's calibration settings and expect them to work with your display, in your room. Every display is slightly different (even if the exact same model) and every room is different. This is especially true with projectors, since the colors in the room can affect the color of your screen. You can use someone else's settings as a starting point, but don't fool yourself that then your display is calibrated. Best to use test patterns, understand what they mean and should look like, and adjust your settings to get there. Or hire a professional calibrator.


----------



## Orwellflash

serith said:


> or just buy last years tech refurbished for substantially less than new at retail prices. i'd never buy a new AVR. let it overheat/fail/blowup, have it fixed & buy it for less with a warranty from an authorized seller online.


I agree. Although based only on anecdotal evidence, it seems that there is a marked decline across the board in quality control of AVRs over the past decade.


----------



## wickedg8gt

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> Ruipro has 4K and 8k that have been used successfully by many Epson and JVC users on the forum. Bluejeans non fiber HDMI cables have been used successfully by forum users. 20ft or over I tend to think you want fiber optic. There is a dedicated thread for HDMI cables on the forum for more opinions and experiences.


I took a look at those Ruipro and they look real nice


Keepingupwiththejones said:


> Ruipro has 4K and 8k that have been used successfully by many Epson and JVC users on the forum. Bluejeans non fiber HDMI cables have been used successfully by forum users. 20ft or over I tend to think you want fiber optic. There is a dedicated thread for HDMI cables on the forum for more opinions and experiences.


I looked at those Ruipro hdmi cords. They look real nice. Expensive but nice. Especially this one. Which would go from pj to reciever.









Amazon.com: RUIPRO 8K HDMI Fiber Optic Cable 15ft HDMI 2.1 48Gbps [email protected] [email protected] Dynamic HDR/eARC/HDCP 2.2 / 3D Slim Flexible Suitable for LG Samsung TCL Sony RTX 3080 3090 Xbox Series X PS5 PS4 Roku (5m): Industrial & Scientific


Buy RUIPRO 8K HDMI Fiber Optic Cable 15ft HDMI 2.1 48Gbps [email protected] [email protected] Dynamic HDR/eARC/HDCP 2.2 / 3D Slim Flexible Suitable for LG Samsung TCL Sony RTX 3080 3090 Xbox Series X PS5 PS4 Roku (5m): HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





I wonder if I need the same 8k fiber in a 3ft to go from reviever to Nvidia Shield and PS?


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

wickedg8gt said:


> I took a look at those Ruipro and they look real nice
> 
> 
> I looked at those Ruipro hdmi cords. They look real nice. Expensive but nice. Especially this one. Which would go from pj to reciever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: RUIPRO 8K HDMI Fiber Optic Cable 15ft HDMI 2.1 48Gbps [email protected] [email protected] Dynamic HDR/eARC/HDCP 2.2 / 3D Slim Flexible Suitable for LG Samsung TCL Sony RTX 3080 3090 Xbox Series X PS5 PS4 Roku (5m): Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> Buy RUIPRO 8K HDMI Fiber Optic Cable 15ft HDMI 2.1 48Gbps [email protected] [email protected] Dynamic HDR/eARC/HDCP 2.2 / 3D Slim Flexible Suitable for LG Samsung TCL Sony RTX 3080 3090 Xbox Series X PS5 PS4 Roku (5m): HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if I need the same 8k fiber in a 3ft to go from reviever to Nvidia Shield and PS?


You don't need fiber optic for connections from device to AVR/Processor. Fiber is only needed for longer runs, really over 20ft.


----------



## wickedg8gt

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> You don't need fiber optic for connections from device to AVR/Processor. Fiber is only needed for longer runs, really over 20ft.


Ok thanks. I know I need one for my 15-20 ft run from projector to reciever, but I wasn't sure if they all should match. I know the 5050 only has a 2.0 hdmi but the reciever will have a 2.1. I guess im overthinking it maybe.


----------



## amarkow

Kieran said:


> As has been said many times in every display-device-specific forum, you can't copy someone else's calibration settings and expect them to work with your display, in your room. Every display is slightly different (even if the exact same model) and every room is different. This is especially true with projectors, since the colors in the room can affect the color of your screen. You can use someone else's settings as a starting point, but don't fool yourself that then your display is calibrated. Best to use test patterns, understand what they mean and should look like, and adjust your settings to get there. Or hire a professional calibrator.


I'm aware of that since I am replacing a PJ with this new one. But I am unfamiliar with the greyscale numbers (1-8) and am trying to determine how they are used. I'm trying to find a jumping off point for this particular setting/settings. Thanks.


----------



## nefrina

Orwellflash said:


> I agree. Although based only on anecdotal evidence, it seems that there is a marked decline across the board in quality control of AVRs over the past decade.


i think heat is possibly the biggest contributing factor to these things dying young. i have 6 case fans blowing air through and out of my diy equipment cabinet and my denon avr gets too hot to touch when i'm pounding on my system. when i see people place their avr with no auxiliary cooling in a confined space with limited air circulation, i cringe.


----------



## Orwellflash

serith said:


> i think heat is possibly the biggest contributing factor to these things dying young. i have 6 case fans blowing air through and out of my diy equipment cabinet and my denon avr gets too hot to touch when i'm pounding on my system. when i see people place their avr with no auxiliary cooling in a confined space with limited air circulation, i cringe.


Plausible, I don't have a cabinet, but have my AVR on top of a shelf that is 16" from the ceiling. I have a component cooling fan sitting on top of my receiver now, but did not have that on the one that failed. Aux fans are a good idea. My previous AVR didn't completely fail, the hdmi ports stopped passing signals.


----------



## Kieran

Orwellflash said:


> My previous AVR didn't completely fail, the hdmi ports stopped passing signals.


For an AVR, I'd call that a critical failure, if not a "complete" failure. I don't know what "complete" would be other than it won't power on. If an AVR isn't switching video, then it's useless for its primary intended purpose.


----------



## fredworld

Am I in the right by thread?  Epson 5050/6050?


----------



## PixelPusher15

@Keepingupwiththejones, I saw you listed a 6050 in classifieds. Are you moving on to better and brighter, or blacker things?


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

PixelPusher15 said:


> @Keepingupwiththejones, I saw you listed a 6050 in classifieds. Are you moving on to better and brighter, or blacker things?


Trying to LOL. I have had an Epson since the 6500UB back in 2008. Wanted to experience a true 4K JVC projector with dynamic tone mapping since I upgraded my screen to Stewart Filmscreen ST130 G4 140 inch 2:39 screen last July. Finally ready to pull the trigger... and then I watch a 4K movie on my 6050 and I start getting seller and buyer remorse even before making the swap🤣🙄😅 because the 6050 puts out such a great image.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> Trying to LOL. I have had an Epson since the 6500UB back in 2008. Wanted to experience a true 4K JVC projector with dynamic tone mapping since I upgraded my screen to Stewart Filmscreen ST130 G4 140 inch 2:39 screen last July. Finally ready to pull the trigger... and then I watch a 4K movie on my 6050 and I start getting seller and buyer remorse even before making the swap🤣🙄😅 because the 6050 puts out such a great image.


DTM is a big, big draw, I know. I'm waiting for a sub $1k external DTM box. It's got to happen at some point. Maybe HDFury will deliver on it, more than just the DV hack which I couldn't get to work. I did some Google University research recently and I noticed there are some research papers out there with new DTM algorithms, Cambridge had one in Oct 2020, maybe some of those can get implemented by someone. I also saw Disney, through a Chinese group maybe a university, was awarded a patent in 2018 for a DTM algorithm. That was interesting. I've also seen there's a thread about getting MadVR working with any source that uses a capture card. Only problem there is we'd have to build a HTPC for it and with current GPU prices it is anything but a cost-effective solution.


----------



## DaGamePimp

PixelPusher15 said:


> DTM is a big, big draw, I know. I'm waiting for a sub $1k external DTM box. It's got to happen at some point. Maybe HDFury will deliver on it, more than just the DV hack which I couldn't get to work. I did some Google University research recently and I noticed there are some research papers out there with new DTM algorithms, Cambridge had one in Oct 2020, maybe some of those can get implemented by someone. I also saw Disney, through a Chinese group maybe a university, was awarded a patent in 2018 for a DTM algorithm. That was interesting. I've also seen there's a thread about getting MadVR working with any source that uses a capture card. Only problem there is we'd have to build a HTPC for it and with current GPU prices it is anything but a cost-effective solution.


Do you have a link to the thread discussing madVR with a capture card?

I did a search here/google but came up empty handed.

Thank you, much appreciated.
Jason


----------



## stevesieber

Just purchased the Panasonic UB420 to go along with the Epson 5050UB, wow, what an upgrade from the Xbox One X, just demoed a couple of movies, this is with a temporary setup until the new house and home theater are done.


----------



## PixelPusher15

DaGamePimp said:


> Do you have a link to the thread discussing madVR with a capture card?
> 
> I did a search here/google but came up empty handed.
> 
> Thank you, much appreciated.
> Jason











How to play any source / netflix through madVR


This method is a bit obsolete. To continue there is now an app available and an updated process as documented in the new thread: https://www.avsforum.com/threads/videoprocessor.3206050/ -------------------------------- So this idea came from Dave Harper. Credit given where credit due. You...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Kieran

I've been running through some of the test patterns on the Spears & Munsil UHD disc recently. Wondering if anyone here has noticed something like I'm seeing. 
On the chroma alignment pattern screen's "horizontal high frequency" block (highlighted below)...








I get a black block there (no pattern of vertical lines) unless I choose RGB as the color space for my Sony UBP-x800m2 to output. So if I choose 4:2:2, or 4:4:4 as the colorspace output on the Sony, this block is essentially a black box; if I choose RGB as the output it looks OK. 

Wondering if anyone else with the Spears & Munsil uhd disc can please confirm this, or confirm they don't see this, and what settings / UHD player they are using.

I'll post some pictures later. Room is too bright right now, and I forgot to take pics last night.


----------



## Fj40jason

stevesieber said:


> Just purchased the Panasonic UB420 to go along with the Epson 5050UB, wow, what an upgrade from the Xbox One X, just demoed a couple of movies, this is with a temporary setup until the new house and home theater are done.
> View attachment 3127654
> View attachment 3127655


That looks great!
I am so on the fence bout DVD players now after getting the Roku Ultra.
I think they will be giving DVD players away in another year, unless 8K does something magic for that industry.


----------



## gunlife

Fj40jason said:


> That looks great!
> I am so on the fence bout DVD players now after getting the Roku Ultra.
> I think they will be giving DVD players away in another year, unless 8K does something magic for that industry.


Get the UB420 it is super cheap and gives a great picture on the 5050. I have seen a very large difference between streaming and UHD bluray disks.


----------



## Fj40jason

gunlife said:


> Get the UB420 it is super cheap and gives a great picture on the 5050. I have seen a very large difference between streaming and UHD bluray disks.


Curious which streaming devices you have used as comparison to the UB420 on the 5050?


----------



## stevesieber

gunlife said:


> Get the UB420 it is super cheap and gives a great picture on the 5050. I have seen a very large difference between streaming and UHD bluray disks.


Totally agree, the difference was amazing!


----------



## jaredmwright

stevesieber said:


> Totally agree, the difference was amazing!


I also 2nd this. In addition to the video improvement, don't underestimate the audio improvement that the higher bitrate and additional audio format options bring to the improved audio experience.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Roy G Biv

I’m seeing an occasional strobe effect in dark scenes and credits with black background. Using Apple TV 4k and Denon S650h with 35ft fiber HDMI.


----------



## MEGAGatchaman

Does the 5050ub ever come in stock at epson for refurbs? I frequently see the UBe.. but I have no use for the wireless hdmi.. Hoping to grab a ub at a discount.


----------



## Roy G Biv

MEGAGatchaman said:


> Does the 5050ub ever come in stock at epson for refurbs? I frequently see the UBe.. but I have no use for the wireless hdmi.. Hoping to grab a ub at a discount.


I was able to get mine a few weeks back by obsessively checking their refurbs page. Infuriatingly, I found it there maybe 5-10 times, but would get an error when buying because it was out of stock. It took maybe 1-2 weeks of no listings for it to return.


----------



## MEGAGatchaman

Roy G Biv said:


> I was able to get mine a few weeks back by obsessively checking their refurbs page. Infuriatingly, I found it there maybe 5-10 times, but would get an error when buying because it was out of stock. It took maybe 1-2 weeks of no listings for it to return.


Well it looks to be in stock this morning! and I'm waffling... I've got a dedicated theater with an old Da-Lite Cinema Contour with Pro-Trim 106 Inch in a light controlled room. I'm wondering if I should save some money and go for a refurb 3800. The older I get, the less I like spending money it seems


----------



## Fj40jason

Life in Color on Netflix is a great series to showcase the Epson potential.


----------



## kdog750

I need to stop obsessing over the settings. I'm spending more time trying to dial in the perfect picture for each streaming movie than I am watching the actual movie...


----------



## PixelPusher15

kdog750 said:


> I need to stop obsessing over the settings. I'm spending more time trying to dial in the perfect picture for each streaming movie than I am watching the actual movie...


I have 2 modes saved, one for HDR and one for SDR. I toggle between the two via the memory function. Then I'll adjust the HDR slider to either 4 or 8 usually, depending on the HDR mastered nit level. This is pretty much the way it has to be done. I've been wanting to set up a macro on my URC remote that I can press for SDR, HDR1000, and HDR4000 so it will do all the steps for me. It should work.


----------



## kdog750

PixelPusher15 said:


> I have 2 modes saved, one for HDR and one for SDR. I toggle between the two via the memory function. Then I'll adjust the HDR slider to either 4 or 8 usually, depending on the HDR mastered nit level. This is pretty much the way it has to be done. I've been wanting to set up a macro on my URC remote that I can press for SDR, HDR1000, and HDR4000 so it will do all the steps for me. It should work.


Good call. I'll set that up.


----------



## MEGAGatchaman

took the plunge and ordered a 5050ub refurb from Epson today. My current HDMI is pretty dang old. It's about 15ft long. Should I order something like this to make certain I'm covered at 4K/60hz?
4K HDR HDMI Cable 20 Feet, 18Gbps 4K 60Hz(4:4:4, HDR10, ARC, HDCP 2.2) 1440p 144Hz, High Speed Ultra HD Cord 24AWG --Not optical. Do I need to spend the money for an optical HDMI?


----------



## Kieran

MEGAGatchaman said:


> took the plunge and ordered a 5050ub refurb from Epson today. My current HDMI is pretty dang old. It's about 15ft long. Should I order something like this to make certain I'm covered at 4K/60hz?
> 4K HDR HDMI Cable 20 Feet, 18Gbps 4K 60Hz(4:4:4, HDR10, ARC, HDCP 2.2) 1440p 144Hz, High Speed Ultra HD Cord 24AWG --Not optical. Do I need to spend the money for an optical HDMI?


Generally for over 15ft you want to go either optical or active. There's no link to the product you're describing, so hard to know. There are some passive cables over 15ft long that are certified. It's always a crap shoot with hdmi. Be prepared to test before pulling it through walls, and return if it's not working. Then test again after pulling it through the walls and return if not working exactly 100% the way it should. 
EDIT: congrats on the purchase!


----------



## Kieran

Kieran said:


> I've been running through some of the test patterns on the Spears & Munsil UHD disc recently. Wondering if anyone here has noticed something like I'm seeing.
> On the chroma alignment pattern screen's "horizontal high frequency" block (highlighted below)...
> View attachment 3127788
> 
> I get a black block there (no pattern of vertical lines) unless I choose RGB as the color space for my Sony UBP-x800m2 to output. So if I choose 4:2:2, or 4:4:4 as the colorspace output on the Sony, this block is essentially a black box; if I choose RGB as the output it looks OK.
> 
> Wondering if anyone else with the Spears & Munsil uhd disc can please confirm this, or confirm they don't see this, and what settings / UHD player they are using.
> 
> I'll post some pictures later. Room is too bright right now, and I forgot to take pics last night.


No bites on my chroma errors post, but I've got some pics to share anyway. Still trying to figure out the root-cause of this. Any ideas?

First, rec.709 with 4:4:4 sampling setting in the Sony:













Next, rec.709 with RGB sampling setting in the Sony:















Next HDR10 with 4:4:4 sampling in the Sony:













And finally HDR10 with RGB sampling setting in Sony:


----------



## MEGAGatchaman

Kieran said:


> Generally for over 15ft you want to go either optical or active. There's no link to the product you're describing, so hard to know. There are some passive cables over 15ft long that are certified. It's always a crap shoot with hdmi. Be prepared to test before pulling it through walls, and return if it's not working. Then test again after pulling it through the walls and return if not working exactly 100% the way it should.
> EDIT: congrats on the purchase!


I believe based upon measurements I can utilize a 15ft though 20ft would be safer bet, so was considering this: LINK
specs:
15-foot to 25-foot Thick Cables, 24AWG, Support Resolutions List,

4K 60Hz 4:4:4, 4:2:2, HDR10, Dolby Vision
2K(1440p) 165Hz, 144Hz, 120Hz
1080p 240Hz, 165Hz, 144Hz, 120Hz, 60Hz


----------



## Kieran

MEGAGatchaman said:


> I believe based upon measurements I can utilize a 15ft though 20ft would be safer bet, so was considering this: LINK


FYI, when sharing an amazon link and using amazon "smile" charity donation feature, you have to remove the smile part and give just the direct product link. So I still can't see that product page.


----------



## Kieran

MEGAGatchaman said:


> I believe based upon measurements I can utilize a 15ft though 20ft would be safer bet, so was considering this: LINK
> specs:
> 15-foot to 25-foot Thick Cables, 24AWG, Support Resolutions List,
> 
> 4K 60Hz 4:4:4, 4:2:2, HDR10, Dolby Vision
> 2K(1440p) 165Hz, 144Hz, 120Hz
> 1080p 240Hz, 165Hz, 144Hz, 120Hz, 60Hz


OK I edited the link myself. I've not heard of iBirdie cables. What is missing from the product page is any claim of "certified" to any HDMI standard. I would go with a certified cable, personally. Otherwise the specs seem to be on target. But who knows.


----------



## Kieran

MEGAGatchaman said:


> I believe based upon measurements I can utilize a 15ft though 20ft would be safer bet, so was considering this: LINK
> specs:
> 15-foot to 25-foot Thick Cables, 24AWG, Support Resolutions List,
> 
> 4K 60Hz 4:4:4, 4:2:2, HDR10, Dolby Vision
> 2K(1440p) 165Hz, 144Hz, 120Hz
> 1080p 240Hz, 165Hz, 144Hz, 120Hz, 60Hz


here are a couple of certified options:








Amazon.com: Zeskit Premium HDMI Certified 4K (23ft/ 7m) CL3 in Wall High Speed with Ethernet HDMI 2.0b Cable, Compatible with Dolby Vision 4K 60Hz ARC HDR 18Gbps HDCP 2.2: Industrial & Scientific


Buy Zeskit Premium HDMI Certified 4K (23ft/ 7m) CL3 in Wall High Speed with Ethernet HDMI 2.0b Cable, Compatible with Dolby Vision 4K 60Hz ARC HDR 18Gbps HDCP 2.2: Industrial & Scientific - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com












Amazon.com: Moonrise Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 30 Feet 4K60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4 (132991): Electronics


Amazon.com: Moonrise Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - Black - 30 Feet 4K60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:4:4 (132991): Electronics



www.amazon.com












Amazon.com: Monster M-Series 1000 Certified Premium HDMI 2.0 4K 60Hz, 22.5 Gbps, Metal Connector, Vgrip: Industrial & Scientific


Buy Monster M-Series 1000 Certified Premium HDMI 2.0 4K 60Hz, 22.5 Gbps, Metal Connector, Vgrip: HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com




EDIT: here's one claiming ultra certification at 16ft... impressive








Amazon.com: 8K HDMI Cable 16FT/15ft, Maxonar (Certified) Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 Cord 48Gbps 8K60 4K120 144Hz RTX 3090 eARC HDCP 2.2&2.3 Compatible with Playstation 5/PS5, Xbox Series X, Roku/Fire/Sony/LG TV: Industrial & Scientific


Buy 8K HDMI Cable 16FT/15ft, Maxonar (Certified) Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 Cord 48Gbps 8K60 4K120 144Hz RTX 3090 eARC HDCP 2.2&2.3 Compatible with Playstation 5/PS5, Xbox Series X, Roku/Fire/Sony/LG TV: HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## MEGAGatchaman

Kieran said:


> OK I edited the link myself. I've not heard of iBirdie cables. What is missing from the product page is any claim of "certified" to any HDMI standard. I would go with a certified cable, personally. Otherwise the specs seem to be on target. But who knows.


EDIT** just saw you follow-up.. grabbing one of those.. thanks!
Thanks Kieran, I'll look at picking a certified cable such as THIS instead or another mainstream cable. Thanks for the input.


----------



## Kieran

MEGAGatchaman said:


> EDIT** just saw you follow-up.. grabbing one of those.. thanks!
> Thanks Kieran, I'll look at picking a certified cable such as THIS instead or another mainstream cable. Thanks for the input.


Full disclosure: I have a 30ft optical HDMI cable from Ruipro that had a lot of positive reviews/comments here on AVSF. It is not "certified". If it fails I'll probably buy a certified replacement though.
Also Blue Jeans Cable -- Quality Cables at Reasonable Prices is really great.
K


----------



## PixelPusher15

I'm using the 15' version of this guy in my wall, no issues: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics...refix=amazon+basics+4k+cl,aps,189&sr=8-4&th=1


----------



## DaGamePimp

If you want a very solid 'certified' cable for in-wall (CL3) and you don't need more than 16' the Zeskit Maya Ultra High Speed Certified cable is a cost effective solution rated to [email protected] / [email protected] / 4:4:4 / (48Gbps). 









Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 16ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5: Industrial & Scientific


Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 16ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com





It's thick and not very flexible but it should be flexible enough for most installations (much sturdier than just about any fiber optic HDMI cable).

- Jason


----------



## Kieran

DaGamePimp said:


> If you want a very solid 'certified' cable for in-wall (CL3) and you don't need more than 16' the Zeskit Maya Ultra High Speed Certified cable is a cost effective solution rated to [email protected] / [email protected] / 4:4:4 / (48Gbps).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 16ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5: Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 16ft CL3 In Wall Rated, 4K120 8K60 eARC HDR HDCP 2.2 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Apple TV 4K Roku Sony LG Samsung Xbox Series X PS4 PS5: Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's thick and not very flexible but it should be flexible enough for most installations (much sturdier than just about any fiber optic HDMI cable).
> 
> - Jason


The first one I linked to was a Zeskit too. Looks like a longer version of the Maya and thus only certified for "premium hdmi" 4k, not 8k. And it doesn't say "maya" on the connector.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Kieran said:


> The first one I linked to was a Zeskit too. Looks like a longer version of the Maya and thus only certified for "premium hdmi" 4k, not 8k. And it doesn't say "maya" on the connector.


Indeed, but at that length ~20' + (in-wall) I would suggest Fiber Optic unless the install does not have conduit for the cables.

There are many decent cables out there that work for 4K movie viewing, it's generally when end-users get into 4K gaming that the cables fail to deliver (usually due to 4K 60Hz with HDR).

If running in-wall might as well prepare for what's to come (as much as we can).  

- Jason


----------



## Roy G Biv

Finally realized I needed to enable to Enhanced HDMI on my Denon S650H for 4k HDR to work on PS5 and Xbox Series X. Picture is very good, but I feel underwhelmed by the upgrade from my Epson 3100, which looks very good too with the right content. Not sure I can tell any difference with 4k or HDR, even in my dark home theater at night at 8' from my 120" screen.


----------



## reechings

Roy G Biv said:


> Finally realized I needed to enable to Enhanced HDMI on my Denon S650H for 4k HDR to work on PS5 and Xbox Series X. Picture is very good, but I feel underwhelmed by the upgrade from my Epson 3100, which looks very good too with the right content. Not sure I can tell any difference with 4k or HDR, even in my dark home theater at night at 8' from my 120" screen.


Wow that's not what I wanted to hear. I have a 3100 right now and have been eyeing the 5050 for a long time. I was hoping to hear of a good bump up in quality especially on darker content.

Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Roy G Biv

reechings said:


> Wow that's not what I wanted to hear. I have a 3100 right now and have been eyeing the 5050 for a long time. I was hoping to hear of a good bump up in quality especially on darker content.
> 
> Sent from my OnePlus 7 Pro using Tapatalk


Do you think it's a substantial upgrade? I could be wrong, or need to make more adjustments. One issue seems to be most 4k content is not so detailed to show real difference. The Revenant looks fantastic on the 3100, and looks somewhat (a bit?) more fantastic on the 5050UB. I may need to do like some critics and rig them up to project half-and-half on my screen.


----------



## DaGamePimp

There should be a clear difference moving from 3100 to 5050ub, the contrast and optical gains are substantial on the 5050ub.

- Jason


----------



## vlayton

To the folks asking about the Chief RP-357, it comes with the plate. You need to already have your NPT threaded pole mounted to the ceiling. Already had that from my old Peerless mount. The plate securely attaches to the projector. Got mine at Audio General.


----------



## Pretorian

I have posted in the UHD player thread and have finally (I think) found my new player. It is the Panasonic 424 (in some countries called 420) and it has HCX and the HDR Optimizer. 
is this a good match with my Epson 6050?
Today I play most movies from my HDDs using a Dune HD streamer. 
Sometimes I connect the Xbox Series X.


----------



## rustolemite

DaGamePimp said:


> There should be a clear difference moving from 3100 to 5050ub, the contrast and optical gains are substantial on the 5050ub.
> 
> - Jason


Yeah for me there was a big difference in the picture going from the 5040 to the 5050, more brightness and better HDR colors.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Pretorian said:


> I have posted in the UHD player thread and have finally (I think) found my new player. It is the Panasonic 424 (in some countries called 420) and it has HCX and the HDR Optimizer.
> is this a good match with my Epson 6050?
> Today I play most movies from my HDDs using a Dune HD streamer.
> Sometimes I connect the Xbox Series X.


I don’t have it but it is a very common BD player to match with any projector. Many have it or the 820 and love it.

Some get the 820 and a HDFury Vertex 2 to utilize LLDV.








Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? This is a HDFury DV LLDV EDID exploit of the Dolby Vision Profile 5 layer included in the DV spec for display manufacturers and models like the Sony A1 OLED. This thread is duplicating Dave's experience using the HDFury Vertex...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

Fj40jason said:


> Curious which streaming devices you have used as comparison to the UB420 on the 5050?


I have Roku Ultra and Nvidia Shield TV PRO 2019. I have the Panasonic 820. I own about 250 UHD movies on VUDU. The picture quality is close between VUDU and disc but definitely a little less noise, little sharper and more detail on disc. The audio is significantly more dynamic on disc. I would pick up a 420. Give it a demo. See what you think.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

MEGAGatchaman said:


> took the plunge and ordered a 5050ub refurb from Epson today. My current HDMI is pretty dang old. It's about 15ft long. Should I order something like this to make certain I'm covered at 4K/60hz?
> 4K HDR HDMI Cable 20 Feet, 18Gbps 4K 60Hz(4:4:4, HDR10, ARC, HDCP 2.2) 1440p 144Hz, High Speed Ultra HD Cord 24AWG --Not optical. Do I need to spend the money for an optical HDMI?


Under 20 ft you may be okay. I would try out the projector with your current HDMI cable and see how it looks. That way if you decide to go fiber optic HDMI you will have a point of reference.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

Pretorian said:


> I have posted in the UHD player thread and have finally (I think) found my new player. It is the Panasonic 424 (in some countries called 420) and it has HCX and the HDR Optimizer.
> is this a good match with my Epson 6050?
> Today I play most movies from my HDDs using a Dune HD streamer.
> Sometimes I connect the Xbox Series X.


The HDR optimizer on the Panasonic plays really nicely with the 5050/6050. I haven't had anyone who wasn't impressed with what they saw.


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> I have posted in the UHD player thread and have finally (I think) found my new player. It is the Panasonic 424 (in some countries called 420) and it has HCX and the HDR Optimizer.
> is this a good match with my Epson 6050?
> Today I play most movies from my HDDs using a Dune HD streamer.
> Sometimes I connect the Xbox Series X.


The 420 is excellent for tone mapping. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## RVD26

vlayton said:


> To the folks asking about the Chief RP-357, it comes with the plate. You need to already have your NPT threaded pole mounted to the ceiling. Already had that from my old Peerless mount. The plate securely attaches to the projector. Got mine at Audio General.


Where do you get the threaded pole from? Is it necessary to purchase? I still need to mount my projector and don't have a clue where to start or all the pieces that I need.
I thought all I needed was something like the Chief mount mentioned.


----------



## Fj40jason

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> I have Roku Ultra and Nvidia Shield TV PRO 2019. I have the Panasonic 820. I own about 250 UHD movies on VUDU. The picture quality is close between VUDU and disc but definitely a little less noise, little sharper and more detail on disc. The audio is significantly more dynamic on disc. I would pick up a 420. Give it a demo. See what you think.


Do you see any improvement with streaming on the 820 vs the Roku?
I am just no into buying a bunch of DVD's anymore. I like to watch new material vs the same movies.
But I can understand how more data is burned to a disc vs coming over stream
Might take another year or two but streaming is catching up fast.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

Fj40jason said:


> Do you see any improvement with streaming on the 820 vs the Roku?
> I am just no into buying a bunch of DVD's anymore. I like to watch new material vs the same movies.
> But I can understand how more data is burned to a disc vs coming over stream
> Might take another year or two but streaming is catching up fast.


I watch most of my movies on VUDU and unfortunately Panasonic no longer supports VUDU. I would say the Roku Ultra 2020 has the best HDR, Audio and 4K streaming of the Shield, Panasonic and Roku. The Shield does the best with sports with the AI Upscaling to 4k. Streaming is also too hit or miss in terms of quality even for the same title. As an example the audio for Oblivion was horrible on VUDU, Movies Anywhere, Fandangonow, but for some reason was really dynamic on Amazon Prime. Disc is better, especially for audio. It will probably be at least 5 years for the fiber network in the US to improve the infrastructure to really be able to handle bigger data needs for dynamic audio via streaming.


----------



## MANTI5

Fj40jason said:


> Might take another year or two but streaming is catching up fast.


Streaming is much further off than that to being able to match physical media. Internet speeds in the US are a joke for most people with many still not having access to bandwidth that could even get decent quality 1080p. Starlink is going to be cost prohibitive for most people for a long time. Streaming is convenient but it won't compare to physical for quite a while.


----------



## stevesieber

Curious, what is everyone using to clean the lens from small dust particles, will any lens cleaning tissue work?


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

stevesieber said:


> Curious, what is everyone using to clean the lens from small dust particles, will any lens cleaning tissue work?


I have never cleaned the lens of any projector I have ever owned in over 20 years of owning projectors. Potentially scratching the lens far outweighs any benefit from cleaning the lens IMHO. I have never perceived any loss of picture quality from dust. If you watch the light beam from the projector you will see much more dust in the path from lens to screen than you ever will accumulate on the lens. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## fredworld

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> I have never cleaned the lens of any projector I have ever owned in over 20 years of owning projectors. Potentially scratching the lens far outweighs any benefit from cleaning the lens IMHO. I have never perceived any loss of picture quality from dust. If you watch the light beam from the projector you will see much more dust in the path from lens to screen than you ever will accumulate on the lens. Just my 2 cents.


If necessary, I would use the same practice as with my telescopes. Manual blower bulb. If the image isn't being effected LEAVE IT ALONE !!!!


----------



## stevesieber

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> I have never cleaned the lens of any projector I have ever owned in over 20 years of owning projectors. Potentially scratching the lens far outweighs any benefit from cleaning the lens IMHO. I have never perceived any loss of picture quality from dust. If you watch the light beam from the projector you will see much more dust in the path from lens to screen than you ever will accumulate on the lens. Just my 2 cents.


Works for me, thanks for the advice!


----------



## vlayton

RVD26 said:


> Where do you get the threaded pole from? Is it necessary to purchase? I still need to mount my projector and don't have a clue where to start or all the pieces that I need.
> I thought all I needed was something like the Chief mount mentioned.


I bought a mount that had the 2 parts needed. A plate that screws to the ceiling that has a threaded hole where you screw in the pole. The pole is basically a metal fence post. You can go to Home Depot and tell them the length you need and they have a tool that puts the threads on the ends. Here's A link to what you want:


Mount Accessories


----------



## MANTI5

Just got my shipping notice from Epson so a few quick questions. This will be my first projector and since it's a refurbished unit, what should I be checking for to find any issues that aren't obvious (like outright not working or physical damage)? Also, I have some PS3 3d glasses that I use with my Mitsubishi 3d DLP tv but I don't think those will work with this projector, would these work Amazon.com: Active Shutter 3D Glasses 4 Pack, Rechargeable Bluetooth 3D Glasses Compatible with Epson 3D Projector, TDG-BT500A TDG-BT400A TY-ER3D5MA (Pack 4): MP3 Players & Accessories ? Anyone have other suggestions?


----------



## Wxyzbrendan

PixelPusher15 said:


> I wrote this for a slickdeals post of the 5050UBe. Others might have some to add but this is what I looked for.
> 
> Check the housing/buttons for any major defects (it should look like new)
> Check the lens for any physical defect
> Make sure the auto lens cover fully opens and closes when turning on and off the projector
> Display the built in alignment pattern and shoot the projector on anything large and light colored then:
> Check alignment/sharpness up close, a lot of color convergence issues can be fixed with the built in controls
> Check the full range of the motorized lens, focus and zoom
> 
> Look at solid white and solid black images for any major issues, particularly dust blobs on an all black screen
> Look at text on a black background and make sure there aren't halos or smears around the text. It's not like an LCD TV, there shouldn't be blooming
> And lastly, what happened to me, check various content to make sure you don't get any strange color banding/blooming. I got it with blues.


 This was posted a few pages back. It has some things to look for.


----------



## Fj40jason

How many are running 4K60Hz 4:2:2 12 bit with 18GBS cable? I know this probably upsets some HDMI god but the quality really seems to there.

Also happy 4th everyone!


----------



## Pretorian

Fj40jason said:


> How many are running 4K60Hz 4:2:2 12 bit with 18GBS cable? I know this probably upsets some HDMI god but the quality really seems to there.
> 
> Also happy 4th everyone!
> View attachment 3130182


I do that but I dont watch Star Wars at 60. That seems "wrong".


----------



## RVD26

I wanted to get the opinions of the folks here regarding where to mount my projector.
Here's a picture of the back and front of my room.
All this time I just assumed it would go on the celling, but now I'm having second thoughts especially because of the ceiling fan and the fact I can't use my UPS with the projector mounted on the ceiling.
Do you guys think it would be possible to place the projector in the box area at the back of the room and shift the lens image over to the center of the front of the room?


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

Fj40jason said:


> How many are running 4K60Hz 4:2:2 12 bit with 18GBS cable? I know this probably upsets some HDMI god but the quality really seems to there.
> 
> Also happy 4th everyone!
> View attachment 3130182


I only do that for sports. For movies I prefer 24Hz. 60FPS for movies is too smooth for my eyes and looks more like a soap opera. But some people definitely like that smooth motion that comes with 60FPS even for movies.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

RVD26 said:


> I wanted to get the opinions of the folks here regarding where to mount my projector.
> Here's a picture of the back and front of my room.
> All this time I just assumed it would go on the celling, but now I'm having second thoughts especially because of the ceiling fan and the fact I can't use my UPS with the projector mounted on the ceiling.
> Do you guys think it would be possible to place the projector in the box area at the back of the room and shift the lens image over to the center of the front of the room?


Even putting a shelf in that box i don't think you would be high enough to avoid obstructions in front of the light beam. Ideally placing the lens in the middle of your screen is best because the center of the lens is always produces the best image quality. But unless you plan on staying in army crawl position during movies than middle of screen is out.. 😅🤣. 

Epson, like all projectors, have limitations of how much horizontal lens shift can be used with vertical lens shift and vice versa. Personally I think the UPS isn't necessary. I have owned 5 Epson projectors and all of them shut down at least once in the middle of viewing when the power went out. Never had any impact on the projector. YMMV but the fan is running while watching cooling the projector. When the projector shuts down when you power it down, listen and you will barely hear the fan run for more than 5 to 10 seconds if that. Once the projector shuts down , even due to a power outage, it is no longer heating itself. Surge protection is more important and you could use a Wattbox easily in the ceiling outlet, if you have have a ceiling outlet. Just my two cents. I would not want that much horizontal shift even if the projector would accommodate it.


----------



## RVD26

Keepingupwiththejones said:


> Even putting a shelf in that box i don't think you would be high enough to avoid obstructions in front of the light beam. Ideally placing the lens in the middle of your screen is best because the center of the lens is always produces the best image quality. But unless you plan on staying in army crawl position during movies than middle of screen is out.. 😅🤣.
> 
> Epson, like all projectors, have limitations of how much horizontal lens shift can be used with vertical lens shift and vice versa. Personally I think the UPS isn't necessary. I have owned 5 Epson projectors and all of them shut down at least once in the middle of viewing when the power went out. Never had any impact on the projector. YMMV but the fan is running while watching cooling the projector. When the projector shuts down when you power it down, listen and you will barely hear the fan run for more than 5 to 10 seconds if that. Once the projector shuts down , even due to a power outage, it is no longer heating itself. Surge protection is more important and you could use a Wattbox easily in the ceiling outlet, if you have have a ceiling outlet. Just my two cents. I would not want that much horizontal shift even if the projector would accommodate it.


Yes, I have a ceiling outlet now. Do you have a link to this Wattbox?


----------



## Fj40jason

Pretorian said:


> I do that but I dont watch Star Wars at 60. That seems "wrong".


This is not really "Star Wars"... just the CGI stuff they put out in Rise of Skywalker



Keepingupwiththejones said:


> I only do that for sports. For movies I prefer 24Hz. 60FPS for movies is too smooth for my eyes and looks more like a soap opera. But some people definitely like that smooth motion that comes with 60FPS even for movies.


I have noticed this on sitcoms with my Samsung 4K 120Hz, but the movies haven't shown that effect IMO with the 5050.


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

RVD26 said:


> Yes, I have a ceiling outlet now. Do you have a link to this Wattbox?








Mundt Music of Longview - WattBox Surge Protector Wall Tap | 1 Outlet


WattBox Surge Protector Wall Tap | 1 Outlet



www.mundtmusic.com


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

Fj40jason said:


> This is not really "Star Wars"... just the CGI stuff they put out in Rise of Skywalker
> 
> 
> 
> I have noticed this on sitcoms with my Samsung 4K 120Hz, but the movies haven't shown that effect IMO with the 5050.


Some people are less susceptible to seeing it on projectors . Nothing wrong with watching movies as you see fit. You are the one who decides what looks best to you.😁❤


----------



## Fj40jason

RVD26 said:


> I wanted to get the opinions of the folks here regarding where to mount my projector.
> Here's a picture of the back and front of my room.
> All this time I just assumed it would go on the celling, but now I'm having second thoughts especially because of the ceiling fan and the fact I can't use my UPS with the projector mounted on the ceiling.
> Do you guys think it would be possible to place the projector in the box area at the back of the room and shift the lens image over to the center of the front of the room?


If you get rid of the pull chain, I think ceiling mount is in the cards still. 
Agree surge protection is the most critical over UPS.


----------



## Jmouse007

Fj40jason said:


> If you get rid of the pull chain, I think ceiling mount is in the cards still.
> Agree surge protection is the most critical over UPS.


Take it from someone who experienced it first hand I wouldn't rule out the UPS battery backup... "surge protection is important, but it is nothing compared to having the power go off and having your hot PJ lamp and pj turn off dead without the ability to power it up on battery backup and then cooling it down properly.

This happened to one of our former Sony pj's and it died because we were unable to turn it back on and cool it down properly via the UPS battery backup. The boards fried from the excess heat and that was it. 

Since then we've always had our pj's connected to the UPS, and it's a good thing we did. The power has cut off without any advance notice at least 6 times since and the UPS saved us every time because I was able to turn the pj back on under battery power, cool it down and shut it off properly. And we live in a very good power grid area. 

I will never be without the UPS, it is essential for everyone who has a projector. I am sure others can also attest to how vital it is to have your pj connected to a battery backup.


----------



## Fj40jason

Jmouse007 said:


> Take it from someone who experienced it first hand I wouldn't rule out the UPS battery backup... "surge protection is important, but it is nothing compared to having the power go off and having your hot PJ lamp and pj turn off dead without the ability to power it up on battery backup and then cooling it down properly.
> 
> This happened to one of our former Sony pj's and it died because we were unable to turn it back on and cool it down properly via the UPS battery backup. The boards fried from the excess heat and that was it.
> 
> Since then we've always had our pj's connected to the UPS, and it's a good thing we did. The power has cut off without any advance notice at least 6 times since and the UPS saved us every time because I was able to turn the pj back on under battery power, cool it down and shut it off properly. And we live in a very good power grid area.
> 
> I will never be without the UPS, it is essential for everyone who has a projector. I am sure others can also attest to how vital it is to have your pj connected to a battery backup.


Interesting. I don't think this 5050 runs long at all after powering down. maybe 2-3 seconds.
How long did the Sony run after powering down?


----------



## Keepingupwiththejones

Jmouse007 said:


> Take it from someone who experienced it first hand I wouldn't rule out the UPS battery backup... "surge protection is important, but it is nothing compared to having the power go off and having your hot PJ lamp and pj turn off dead without the ability to power it up on battery backup and then cooling it down properly.
> 
> This happened to one of our former Sony pj's and it died because we were unable to turn it back on and cool it down properly via the UPS battery backup. The boards fried from the excess heat and that was it.
> 
> Since then we've always had our pj's connected to the UPS, and it's a good thing we did. The power has cut off without any advance notice at least 6 times since and the UPS saved us every time because I was able to turn the pj back on under battery power, cool it down and shut it off properly. And we live in a very good power grid area.
> 
> I will never be without the UPS, it is essential for everyone who has a projector. I am sure others can also attest to how vital it is to have your pj connected to a battery backup.


Curious as to what Sony model and how long ago this happened. If you wouldn't have to sacrifice projector location I see no reason not to follow your advice. If I had to alter my ideal and preferred projector location to accommodate a battery backup I would not be inclined to do that. Projector heat retention is different from one projector technology to another.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Jmouse007 said:


> Take it from someone who experienced it first hand I wouldn't rule out the UPS battery backup... "surge protection is important, but it is nothing compared to having the power go off and having your hot PJ lamp and pj turn off dead without the ability to power it up on battery backup and then cooling it down properly.
> 
> This happened to one of our former Sony pj's and it died because we were unable to turn it back on and cool it down properly via the UPS battery backup. The boards fried from the excess heat and that was it.
> 
> Since then we've always had our pj's connected to the UPS, and it's a good thing we did. The power has cut off without any advance notice at least 6 times since and the UPS saved us every time because I was able to turn the pj back on under battery power, cool it down and shut it off properly. And we live in a very good power grid area.
> 
> I will never be without the UPS, it is essential for everyone who has a projector. I am sure others can also attest to how vital it is to have your pj connected to a battery backup.


Actually the intent/solution is to have a UPS that will keep the lamp based PJ going even if power fails, then the PJ can be shut down properly (not turned back on only to be shut down again as it is also bad for the lamp to turn back on while it's hot). 

- Jason


----------



## Fj40jason

DaGamePimp said:


> Actually the intent/solution is to have a UPS that will keep the lamp based PJ going even if power fails, then the PJ can be shut down properly (not turned back on only to be shut down again as it is also bad for the lamp to turn back on while it's hot).
> 
> - Jason


That's interesting info. 
I do notice the fan goes ballistic if I power down and then try to power up <10 seconds later


----------



## fredworld

Well, here's my addition to the *dust blob story in over 180 posts in this thread to date*. Yesterday, I received a replacement unit, a refurb, for my 5050UB that I purchased in 2019. My warranty expires July 15, 2020. I was going to have my unit repaired at a local authorized Epson facility but was told by a very nice gentlemen (who actually seemed to be quite knowledgeable about dust blobs) that they were no longer authorized as of two weeks prior to my call. Another authorized location told me they can only ship my unit to Epson for repair or facilitate a refurb replacement because Epson wants to do all repairs due to issues with repairs at some locations. I wanted to have it repaired locally so as not to risk shipping damage, nor did I want a refurb replacement due to the numerous problems others reported with their replacement unit. Since it was obvious that my unit would have to be shipped to Epson, I decided to accept Epson's offer of a refurb replacement shipped directly to me and then return my unit within 7 days.
I set up the refurb replacement on a high work table directly under my ceiling mounted original. The refurb had a focusing issue. The image jumps when focusing making it slightly difficult to focus on pixel structure, but more notably the tops of letters, horizontal lines on the on-board "pattern" and on a crosshatch pattern from a test disc all have fringing causing the horizontal line to be noticeably wider than the much thinner vertical lines. I wasn't able to tune it out via the convergence feature. My original unit has nice straight consistently thin vertical and horizontal lines in comparison. There were also 3 small dust blobs across the center of the image but only noticeable when defocused. Also, there appeared to be a dead pixel in the lower part of the upper left quadrant.
A 45 minute discussion with an Epson rep and then an Epson supervisor emphasized that I need to return my original unit, not the replacement and then they can process a replacement. I found it impractical that I should have to dismount a better working unit (except for a dust blob that's only noticeable in some dark scenes and end credits) that's ceiling mounted and subjectively calibrated with various custom settings and then taking another chance that another unit will be a better performer instead of just returning the unsatisfactory refurb unit. I'm not getting on THAT merry-go-round. So, I'm shipping the refurb unit back and agreed with Epson that, for now, I'll continue peacefully cohabiting with my dust blob.


----------



## Luminated67

^This is shocking that Epson America are shipping replacement units that are defective. And ever worse that they are acknowledging their repair centres are doing a p*** poor job and have decided to bring everything in-house.


----------



## fredworld

Luminated67 said:


> ^This is shocking that Epson America are shipping replacement units that are defective. And ever worse that they are acknowledging their repair centres are doing a p*** poor job and have decided to bring everything in-house.


Well, in fairness to Epson, the focusing issues and fringing could be from abuse during shipping.


----------



## Orwellflash

Fj40jason said:


> How many are running 4K60Hz 4:2:2 12 bit with 18GBS cable? I know this probably upsets some HDMI god but the quality really seems to there.
> 
> Also happy 4th everyone!
> View attachment 3130182


I am, 15 ft. , no problems.


----------



## Jmouse007

Fj40jason said:


> Interesting. I don't think this 5050 runs long at all after powering down. maybe 2-3 seconds.
> How long did the Sony run after powering down?


The SONY ran for well over a minute or two before it would automatically shut down after the lamp and internals were cool enough to automatically shut down.


----------



## Fj40jason

JPBoggis said:


> My settings for Epson TW9400 (6050UB) can be found on the following page: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> NOTE: This 'hack' is dependant on playback devices that are able to output a Dolby Vision LLDV signal and optionally convert SDR/HDR to LLDV if you want to do this (not all DV capable playback devices are able to do this conversion.) Lots of native Dolby Vision content can be found on Netflix, iTunes, Apple TV+ and Disney+


So the Roku Ultra now outputs DV for movies.
Thinking about the "hack" with a vertex 2.
Can I continue to use the 18GBs hdmi cable running from AVR to 5050?
Does the 5050/6050 forum like the hack with the fury or it's not worth the added expense?


----------



## Kieran

Fj40jason said:


> Does the 5050/6050 forum like the hack with the fury or it's not worth the added expense?


YES.


----------



## mauro145

Fj40jason said:


> Does the 5050/6050 forum like the hack with the fury or it's not worth the added expense?


I didn't notice a lot of improvement but I'm using drhdmi 4k, at this price I think is worth the try

Enviado desde mi CPH2069 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Fj40jason said:


> So the Roku Ultra now outputs DV for movies.
> Thinking about the "hack" with a vertex 2.
> Can I continue to use the 18GBs hdmi cable running from AVR to 5050?
> Does the 5050/6050 forum like the hack with the fury or it's not worth the added expense?


I tried it. Couldn't get it to "work". Maybe it did work but I wasn't able to see a difference. I'm only doing streaming on an ATV4K. Maybe it works better with discs. I say give it a shot if you have the coin to try it. Just buy it from Amazon for easy returns


----------



## Fj40jason

PixelPusher15 said:


> I tried it. Couldn't get it to "work". Maybe it did work but I wasn't able to see a difference. I'm only doing streaming on an ATV4K. Maybe it works better with discs. I say give it a shot if you have the coin to try it. Just buy it from Amazon for easy returns


I found a Diva on discount on Amazon.
I hope it works but always use the Amex in case things go sideways.

I'll share some pics if I get it working correctly.


----------



## JPBoggis

I've been using the DV 'hack' for well over a year with the ATV4K, Sony X800M2, HDFury Vertex2 and Epson TW9400 (6050UB) and for me it makes a big difference especially for DV content.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Fj40jason said:


> I found a Diva on discount on Amazon.
> I hope it works but always use the Amex in case things go sideways.
> 
> I'll share some pics if I get it working correctly.


Try to find someone, maybe like @JPBoggis (lol), to give you their settings. The main thread for the hack is very JVC focused and its hard to find info on how others are getting it to work with their Epson. It would be great if someone that had it working would post their setup and settings. It'd make me want to try it again.


----------



## Fj40jason

JPBoggis said:


> I've been using the DV 'hack' for well over a year with the ATV4K, Sony X800M2, HDFury Vertex2 and Epson TW9400 (6050UB) and for me it makes a big difference especially for DV content.


I said I wasn't going to buy disc player and ended up with an open box X800M2. 
I mainly like to listen/watch recorded concerts and I was also curious if the IMAX stuff was worth my time.

It's good to have someone on this thread who has the HD Fury and 5050/6050 nailed down.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Try to find someone, maybe like @JPBoggis (lol), to give you their settings. The main thread for the hack is very JVC focused and its hard to find info on how others are getting it to work with their Epson. It would be great if someone that had it working would post their setup and settings. It'd make me want to try it again.


How about this post by @JPBoggis himself?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> How about this post by @JPBoggis himself?


My goodness. I even like it and commented lol.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> My goodness. I even like it and commented lol.


LOL no worries. I happened to have just randomly passed by it a few minutes before. We're kindered spirits: when I "found" it, I was like "ooh, I need to bookmark this for when I eventually get a Vertex...." go to bookmark it.... Oh. Already bookmarked. LOL


----------



## wickedg8gt

vlayton said:


> To the folks asking about the Chief RP-357, it comes with the plate. You need to already have your NPT threaded pole mounted to the ceiling. Already had that from my old Peerless mount. The plate securely attaches to the projector. Got mine at Audio General.


Yeah that was me asking. Thank you. I have a dedicated plate and mount with threaded pole for my 5020. So good to know it comes with the plate and mount to attach to the pole which is attached to ceiling plate.


----------



## Fj40jason

Bit the bullet and got a Sony x800m2. Wohoo finally got the 4:4:4 chroma to show up on the Epson today.


----------



## Kieran

Fj40jason said:


> Bit the bullet and got a Sony x800m2. Wohoo finally got the 4:4:4 chroma to show up on the Epson today.


Can you explain what you mean by " got the 4:4:4 chroma to show up on the Epson"?
I've been trying to trouble shoot this for some time, and got no responses from anyone here, or in the Sony x800m2 forum. Are you using the Spears & Munsil UHD disc test patterns?


----------



## Fj40jason

Kieran said:


> Can you explain what you mean by " got the 4:4:4 chroma to show up on the Epson"?
> I've been trying to trouble shoot this for some time, and got no responses from anyone here, or in the Sony x800m2 forum. Are you using the Spears & Munsil UHD disc test patterns?


I'll post a few pics of my settings when the wife isn't watching a movie 🍿🎥.
It's being pushed from the Sony BD player settings.


----------



## Kieran

Fj40jason said:


> I'll post a few pics of my settings when the wife isn't watching a movie 🍿🎥.
> It's being pushed from the Sony BD player settings.


Here's a post about my issues with the x800m2 + Epson 5050ub.


----------



## Fj40jason

Kieran said:


> Here's a post about my issues with the x800m2 + Epson 5050ub.


Here you go


----------



## Pretorian

What color space should I choose on my Panasonic 424/420 player to best feed my Epson? I can choose 4:4:4 or 4:2:0.


----------



## Luminated67

Over on AVForums we were debating the Epson and the difference between SDR and HDR, mostly colour strength and brightness and I took a couple of versions from both versions. Not sure how the colours come across as it’s take with my iPhone but it shows how close the two versions look.

















Other scenes did show off the extended colour range with the HDR version but I suppose they should look quite similar if things are set up correctly.


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> Over on AVForums we were debating the Epson and the difference between SDR and HDR, mostly colour strength and brightness and I took a couple of versions from both versions. Not sure how the colours come across as it’s take with my iPhone but it shows how close the two versions look.
> 
> View attachment 3131842
> View attachment 3131843
> 
> 
> Other scenes did show off the extended colour range with the HDR version but I suppose they should look quite similar if things are set up correctly.


Forgive me for asking but is this the same thing I asked for in terms of 4:4:4 or 4:2:0? Is one of them SDR and the other HDR?
I see that you have the Panasonic 420 and the same Epson I have. What settings are you using in your player?


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Forgive me for asking but is this the same thing I asked for in terms of 4:4:4 or 4:2:0? Is one of them SDR and the other HDR?
> I see that you have the Panasonic 420 and the same Epson I have. What settings are you using in your player?


The Panasonic was used for the 4K HDR image, Epson’s HDR slider at 4, lamp on Medium, Iris at 0 and picture mode CINEMA as this was what my calibrator used instead of DIGITAL CINEMA.

The Sony X700 was used for the SDR image, lamp ECO, Iris-16 and picture mode NATURAL.

No point going into the fine details of Gamma, grey scale etc because my projector, screen and room are different to your own.


----------



## Orwellflash

Pretorian said:


> What color space should I choose on my Panasonic 424/420 player to best feed my Epson? I can choose 4:4:4 or 4:2:0.


My knowledge is very rudimentary in this area. Here is a bit more (pun intended) info on it: What are 8-bit, 10-bit, 12-bit, 4:4:4, 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 - Datavideo Technologies Co.

It seems to me that 12 bit 4:2:0 should be more desirable for playback than 10 bit 4:2:0. If you are creating and editing, 4:4:4 may be preferred. Hopefully, someone will correct me if I am wrong.


----------



## Orwellflash

Orwellflash said:


> My knowledge is very rudimentary in this area. Here is a bit more (pun intended) info on it: What are 8-bit, 10-bit, 12-bit, 4:4:4, 4:2:2 and 4:2:0 - Datavideo Technologies Co.
> 
> It seems to me that 12 bit 4:2:0 should be more desirable for playback than 10 bit 4:2:0. If you are creating and editing, 4:4:4 may be preferred. Hopefully, someone will correct me if I am wrong.


This is better article on chroma subsampling:








Chroma Subsampling: 4:4:4 vs 4:2:2 vs 4:2:0


What is Chroma Subsampling and where is this visible? Chroma subsampling is a type of compression that reduces the color information in a signal in favor of luminance data.




www.rtings.com
 




Dolby Vision is 12 bit, but 5050 does not support DV as far as I know.


----------



## Kieran

Pretorian said:


> What color space should I choose on my Panasonic 424/420 player to best feed my Epson? I can choose 4:4:4 or 4:2:0.


Read this:








Choosing a Color Space, Ultra HD Edition


Introduction This article is about how to choose the output color space from your player and / or video processor. We’ll talk a bit about what a “color space” is, why you should care, and how to tell which color space or spaces work best with your combination of equipment. What is A “Color Space?”…




spearsandmunsil.com




Then if you have further questions go here:








Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark Disc - Discussion


Just got my retail copy




www.avsforum.com




Stacey Spears is pretty active on that thread when it comes to answering questions.


----------



## Kieran

Orwellflash said:


> This is better article on chroma subsampling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chroma Subsampling: 4:4:4 vs 4:2:2 vs 4:2:0
> 
> 
> What is Chroma Subsampling and where is this visible? Chroma subsampling is a type of compression that reduces the color information in a signal in favor of luminance data.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.rtings.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision is 12 bit, but 5050 does not support DV as far as I know.


I much prefer Spears & Munsil's article on choosing a color space. The images they have in the article really show clearly the idea of chroma sampling, IMO.


----------



## Kieran

Fj40jason said:


> Here you go


Oh.
Yeah, I know how to turn on 4-4-4 color space in the x800m2, and my projector will confirm that it's getting 4-4-4 (or 4-2-2, or RGB, whatever I choose). 
The problem is, when I check the test patterns on Spears & Munsil, only RGB looks right. 4-4-4 and 4-2-2 both fail the high frequency chroma pattern test. 
I have yet to figure out if it's the Sony, or the Epson, that's messing up the chroma. 
I'm pretty sure it's not the Denon AVR, because I get the same results with or without it in the path.
EDIT: so I'm looking to find people who have the same setup (x800m2 and Epson) to see if they get the same results with the Spears & Munsil test patterns.


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> The Panasonic was used for the 4K HDR image, Epson’s HDR slider at 4, lamp on Medium, Iris at 0 and picture mode CINEMA as this was what my calibrator used instead of DIGITAL CINEMA.
> 
> The Sony X700 was used for the SDR image, lamp ECO, Iris-16 and picture mode NATURAL.
> 
> No point going into the fine details of Gamma, grey scale etc because my projector, screen and room are different to your own.


Thanks. I am interested in choosing the correct settings for my Panasonic player. When I decided what UHD player I should get I was recommended this one because it has HCX and Tone Mapping. I just want to make sure that I use sll those features together with my Epson.


----------



## Fj40jason

Kieran said:


> Oh.
> Yeah, I know how to turn on 4-4-4 color space in the x800m2, and my projector will confirm that it's getting 4-4-4 (or 4-2-2, or RGB, whatever I choose).
> The problem is, when I check the test patterns on Spears & Munsil, only RGB looks right. 4-4-4 and 4-2-2 both fail the high frequency chroma pattern test.
> I have yet to figure out if it's the Sony, or the Epson, that's messing up the chroma.
> I'm pretty sure it's not the Denon AVR, because I get the same results with or without it in the path.
> EDIT: so I'm looking to find people who have the same setup (x800m2 and Epson) to see if they get the same results with the Spears & Munsil test patterns.


I don't have the disc to run a test.
Can you post pics of your M2 and 6050 settings?
That's probably the easiest way for someone to help on the forum.


----------



## Fj40jason

Orwellflash said:


> This is better article on chroma subsampling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chroma Subsampling: 4:4:4 vs 4:2:2 vs 4:2:0
> 
> 
> What is Chroma Subsampling and where is this visible? Chroma subsampling is a type of compression that reduces the color information in a signal in favor of luminance data.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.rtings.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dolby Vision is 12 bit, but 5050 does not support DV as far as I know.


The user feedback is an HD Fury product can unlock the DV feature on UHD players and some of the latest streaming players.
The 5050 will display DV video once the source player is not withholding the signal.
I have the HDF diva coming in next week. Will report back with the Sony M2 and Roku Ultra results.
So far almost everyone is having success with the M2

I have to say the 4:4:4 has been an upgrade regardless if people say your eye can't tell a difference.


----------



## Orwellflash

Fj40jason said:


> The user feedback is an HD Fury product can unlock the DV feature on UHD players and some of the latest streaming players.
> The 5050 will display DV video once the source player is not withholding the signal.
> I have the HDF diva coming in next week. Will report back with the Sony M2 and Roku Ultra results.
> So far almost everyone is having success with the M2
> 
> I have to say the 4:4:4 has been an upgrade regardless if people say your eye can't tell a difference.


Very interesting. Looking forward to report. Thanks.


----------



## Pretorian

I took this from one of the links above 

There is virtually no advantage to using 4:4:4 for consuming video content.


----------



## Kieran

Pretorian said:


> I took this from one of the links above
> 
> There is virtually no advantage to using 4:4:4 for consuming video content.


Yes 100% true, in theory, if every device in your video chain handled chroma up-sampling correctly.

But in reality, every video signal needs to be converted to RGB (a process called chroma up sampling) to be displayed by the tv/monitor/projector. This chroma up sampling process is technically similar to converting 1080p video to 4K video; it is a scaling and interpolation process, and there are cheap and easy ways to do it and more complicated and slightly more expensive ways to do it..

How and when that conversion takes place is what each person needs to figure out for their equipment.

To do this requires running a series of test images to try to discern which devices in your video path do the best job of converting the chroma to RGB.

(Stacy Spears and Don Munsil were the first to widely report on errors in the chroma sampling process in DVD players in the late 1990s. That work is the underlying work that led to their popular UHD video benchmark disc.)

So it is possible that one's UHD disc player does a better job at the chroma upsampling than one's tv. In that case you might see a better picture if you have the player do the upsampling. Some might find their TV does a better job, and still others may find the avr has the best video processing in their system.


----------



## Fj40jason

Pretorian said:


> I took this from one of the links above
> 
> There is virtually no advantage to using 4:4:4 for consuming video content.


Here are three scene shots in 422 and three in 444.

See any difference in detail?
Cell phone pics. Best I can do


----------



## Pretorian

Kieran said:


> Yes 100% true, in theory, if every device in your video chain handled chroma up-sampling correctly.
> 
> But in reality, every video signal needs to be converted to RGB (a process called chroma up sampling) to be displayed by the tv/monitor/projector. This chroma up sampling process is technically similar to converting 1080p video to 4K video; it is a scaling and interpolation process, and there are cheap and easy ways to do it and more complicated and slightly more expensive ways to do it..
> 
> How and when that conversion takes place is what each person needs to figure out for their equipment.
> 
> To do this requires running a series of test images to try to discern which devices in your video path do the best job of converting the chroma to RGB.
> 
> (Stacy Spears and Don Munsil were the first to widely report on errors in the chroma sampling process in DVD players in the late 1990s. That work is the underlying work that led to their popular UHD video benchmark disc.)
> 
> So it is possible that one's UHD disc player does a better job at the chroma upsampling than one's tv. In that case you might see a better picture if you have the player do the upsampling. Some might find their TV does a better job, and still others may find the avr has the best video processing in their system.


You had my curiosity... now you have my attention. 
Damn it. So no easy answer. 
But people in this thread that have a Panasonic player and the Epson projector: what settings are you using? I am talking on the player side.


----------



## Kieran

Fj40jason said:


> Here are three scene shots in 422 and three in 444.
> 
> See any difference in detail?
> Cell phone pics. Best I can do


Hard to say. Maybe some difference in the shot of the car breaking through the red bridge wall. Otherwise they all look more or less the same.

What kind of hdmi cable do you use, and how long is the run? It shouldn't make a difference, but I'm curious.

Is your Denon x6700h in the video path for all of those shots? Or are you connecting directly from Sony x800m2 to the Epson pj?


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Thanks. I am interested in choosing the correct settings for my Panasonic player. When I decided what UHD player I should get I was recommended this one because it has HCX and Tone Mapping. I just want to make sure that I use sll those features together with my Epson.


You need to go into the Panasonic settings and make sure it’s set up for projector (can’t recall where it is) then set HDR Optimiser to ON and me personally on the remote I press the HDR Settings button and pick the second preset which I think is called “Natural”. After that I use the Epson’s HDR slider to fine tune each movie but for most I find between 4 and 6 is perfect.


----------



## Fj40jason

Kieran said:


> Hard to say. Maybe some difference in the shot of the car breaking through the red bridge wall. Otherwise they all look more or less the same.
> 
> What kind of hdmi cable do you use, and how long is the run? It shouldn't make a difference, but I'm curious.
> 
> Is your Denon x6700h in the video path for all of those shots? Or are you connecting directly from Sony x800m2 to the Epson pj?


Yeah it's not a dynamic change but more pixels are more pixels, and they are no additional charge with the M2 player. These were cuts from Beetlejuice, which is an older film. Lots of variables in play.

I don't think the phone is a great measurement either. I am really curious if DV is going to live up to the hype considering how well the picture is today.
Right now I am using the 2020 Roku ultra cable until more HDMI cables come in from Amazon. ~3'

Yes 6700 is inline. Set to enhanced.


----------



## Kieran

Fj40jason said:


> Yeah it's not a dynamic change but more pixels are more pixels, and they are no additional charge with the M2 player. These were cuts from Beetlejuice, which is an older film. Lots of variables in play.
> 
> I don't think the phone is a great measurement either. I am really curious if DV is going to live up to the hype considering how well the picture is today.
> Right now I am using the 2020 Roku ultra cable until more HDMI cables come in from Amazon. ~3'
> 
> Yes 6700 is inline. Set to enhanced.


It's actually not more pixels. It's a different way of processing the color for the same number of pixels.
What cable is going from denon to the epson?


----------



## Fj40jason

Kieran said:


> It's actually not more pixels. It's a different way of processing the color for the same number of pixels.
> What cable is going from denon to the epson?


Maybe but when I read this from your link, it sounds like there are. "“4:4:4” means that for every 4 Y’ pixels, there are 4 Cb and Cr pixels on the even scan lines and 4 Cb and Cr pixels on the odd scan lines. This format is expensive to store and transmit, so is only used for storage of very high-end professional master video. But it is often available as an output format from a player or video processor. Keep in mind that the player or video processor does not have access to the original 4:4:4 channels, "

Running a 18gbs fiber ~40' from Denon to the PJ


----------



## Kieran

Fj40jason said:


> Maybe but when I read this from your link, it sounds like there are. "“4:4:4” means that for every 4 Y’ pixels, there are 4 Cb and Cr pixels on the even scan lines and 4 Cb and Cr pixels on the odd scan lines. This format is expensive to store and transmit, so is only used for storage of very high-end professional master video. But it is often available as an output format from a player or video processor. Keep in mind that the player or video processor does not have access to the original 4:4:4 channels, "
> 
> Running a 18gbs fiber ~40' from Denon to the PJ


Ah, OK. So in that sense there are more pixels, yes, but not really. There are still only 4K (2160x3840) pixels making up the picture. Each of THOSE pixels is a combination of a Red, a Green, and a Blue sub-pixel.
In the signal (on disc) to save space, the data are stored as Chroma and Luma instead of R, G, and B. The luma aka black and white / gray scale is stored at full 4k resolution. The chroma are stored as the color difference pixels. The ACTUAL image that is projected is RGB, with each color having 4K pixels. So a single picture in a full-color 4K image is actually 3 sub pixels. So what I was saying is that 4:2:0 vs. 4:2:2 vs 4:4:4 does not give you more pixels displayed on the screen. It's still ALWAYS 4K RGB coming out of your projector lens. (ok assuming your pj is a 4K pj, which the epson isn't technically, but let's just pretend it is for the sake of this discussion, LOL). So, you're not getting "more pixels" on screen. The color is just up-sampled differently (and by a different machine, hopefully). 

So, if you choose to send 4-2-0 from your disc player to the Epson, then the Epson will have to do the chroma upsampling in order to display a full RGB signal. 
If however, you choose to send 4-4-4 to the epson from your disc player, you're asking the disc player to do the upsampling work, then the Epson just converts 4-4-4 to RGB which is simple arithmetic (not upsampling). The question is, which device is "better" at calculating the upsampling of the chroma signals, the Epson, or the disc player? In the case of Oppo disc players it's almost always the disc player (unfortunately they are discontinued). Some other brands are hit and miss as to whether they are "good" at chroma upsampling, some models are, some models aren't. I don't know how good the Epson is at it. I can't test it, because I don't have a known good disc player. Stacey may be able to come by this July and we'll figure it out together though. We'll see.


----------



## Kieran

Actually, I suspect that the chroma problem is with the Sony ubp-x800m2, but I'm not sure. 
In Chris Eberle's review of the 5050ub at Secrets, Chris states that the chroma resolution is perfect; although I'm not sure if he tested at 4k or not. I'll reach out to him and see if he remembers.


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> You need to go into the Panasonic settings and make sure it’s set up for projector (can’t recall where it is) then set HDR Optimiser to ON and me personally on the remote I press the HDR Settings button and pick the second preset which I think is called “Natural”. After that I use the Epson’s HDR slider to fine tune each movie but for most I find between 4 and 6 is perfect.


Great!
I will try that and I might take som pictures comparing some Remux movies I have on my Dune player with the same movies played through the Panasonic.


----------



## Kieran

Orwellflash said:


> This is better article on chroma subsampling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chroma Subsampling: 4:4:4 vs 4:2:2 vs 4:2:0
> 
> 
> What is Chroma Subsampling and where is this visible? Chroma subsampling is a type of compression that reduces the color information in a signal in favor of luminance data.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.rtings.com


I just read that article in more detail, and I have to disagree; I think the author misrepresents what's going on, and when it is better (or not) to change the chroma sampling level output for a disc player. 
The author first makes it look like going from Luma and Chroma to a 4:4:4 image is as simple as just adding Luma+Chroma, but it's not. The low-res chroma signal is actually up-sampled with (what can be / should be) a complicated algorithm. 

Then, they go on to say that setting your chroma sampling output is a decision based on how you use your system:


> Do you only use your TV or Projector for watching Movies and TV?
> Then *No*, you do not need to set your Devices and TV/Projector to 4:2:2 or 4:4:4.
> 
> Do you use your TV or Projector as a PC Monitor or play PS5 or XBOX One X?
> Then *YES*, set your devices and TV/Projector to 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 if available.
> 18Gbps HDMI Cable is needed for this.


This is so wrong. You should choose your settings based on which device does the best job at the up-sampling.


----------



## AVTimme

Thanks Kieran! Very informative posts


----------



## Fj40jason

Kieran said:


> Ah, OK. So in that sense there are more pixels, yes, but not really. There are still only 4K (2160x3840) pixels making up the picture. Each of THOSE pixels is a combination of a Red, a Green, and a Blue sub-pixel.
> In the signal (on disc) to save space, the data are stored as Chroma and Luma instead of R, G, and B. The luma aka black and white / gray scale is stored at full 4k resolution. The chroma are stored as the color difference pixels. The ACTUAL image that is projected is RGB, with each color having 4K pixels. So a single picture in a full-color 4K image is actually 3 sub pixels. So what I was saying is that 4:2:0 vs. 4:2:2 vs 4:4:4 does not give you more pixels displayed on the screen. It's still ALWAYS 4K RGB coming out of your projector lens. (ok assuming your pj is a 4K pj, which the epson isn't technically, but let's just pretend it is for the sake of this discussion, LOL). So, you're not getting "more pixels" on screen. The color is just up-sampled differently (and by a different machine, hopefully).
> 
> So, if you choose to send 4-2-0 from your disc player to the Epson, then the Epson will have to do the chroma upsampling in order to display a full RGB signal.
> If however, you choose to send 4-4-4 to the epson from your disc player, you're asking the disc player to do the upsampling work, then the Epson just converts 4-4-4 to RGB which is simple arithmetic (not upsampling). The question is, which device is "better" at calculating the upsampling of the chroma signals, the Epson, or the disc player? In the case of Oppo disc players it's almost always the disc player (unfortunately they are discontinued). Some other brands are hit and miss as to whether they are "good" at chroma upsampling, some models are, some models aren't. I don't know how good the Epson is at it. I can't test it, because I don't have a known good disc player. Stacey may be able to come by this July and we'll figure it out together though. We'll see.


ok, maybe not more pixels but more Chroma


----------



## Kieran

Fj40jason said:


> ok, maybe not more pixels but more Chroma


LOL, however you want to think of it; but I would say "different chroma" and maybe "better chroma" but not "more chroma." All the discs are mastered in 4:2:0 (required by the standard) and there's no way to recover the missing chroma data from the original master. It needs to get converted to 4:4:4 and then to RGB to be displayed. How/when/where those conversions happen is the question and which device in your system is best at it.
You seem to prefer the way the Sony does it. That's great! Always choose the settings that look best to YOU. However after some testing and experimenting and studying/learning what to look for, you may find that you eventually prefer different settings; and that's great too! All that reviewers and testers can do is tell you which settings are most accurate per certain standards. They can't tell you it looks better in YOUR EYES. Only you get to decide that. 
If you are interested in learning/seeing more; I highly recommend picking up the Spears & Munsil benchmark disc (UHD edition).
That said, Stacey is in the final stages of mastering the next edition, so I'd say wait a couple months until it comes out.


----------



## Kieran

Update: 
I'm 99.9% sure the chroma problem I'm seeing lies with the Sony UBP-x800m2. I compared it to my Oppo bdp-83, which is SDR /1080p only, and used the Spears & Munsil HD benchmark disc. The oppo passes the chroma multi burst test with flying colors, no matter which chroma sampling level I ask it to output. The Sony fails at 4:2:2 and 4:4:4, and barely passes with RGB.
Granted this is not a UHD nor HDR test. However these results duplicate what I see on the Sony with the UHD benchmark disc's test patterns, so it looks like the Sony just doesn't up-convert chroma properly, both in FHD and UHD.
I used the exact same hdmi cables for both tests.
This pretty much absolves the Epson from any guilt in this issue.


----------



## vlayton

I did some reading when I was setting up my 5050 and the x800m2. It was my understanding that 12-bit 4:4:4 was more bandwidth than the 18Gb supported by HDMI 2.0.


----------



## Kieran

vlayton said:


> I did some reading when I was setting up my 5050 and the x800m2. It was my understanding that 12-bit 4:4:4 was more bandwidth than the 18Gb supported by HDMI 2.0.


I don't think I was doing 12-bit. I'll have to go back and check. Regardless, both 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 fail the high resolution chroma burst pattern, and 4:2:2 is less bandwidth than 4:4:4. Also, RGB passes, and has the same bandwidth as 4:4:4. Finally, the bandwidth of 4:4:4 on the 1080p benchmark disc is WELL within the capability of my system, and it failed that in the same way.


----------



## Orwellflash

Kieran said:


> I just read that article in more detail, and I have to disagree; I think the author misrepresents what's going on, and when it is better (or not) to change the chroma sampling level output for a disc player.
> The author first makes it look like going from Luma and Chroma to a 4:4:4 image is as simple as just adding Luma+Chroma, but it's not. The low-res chroma signal is actually up-sampled with (what can be / should be) a complicated algorithm.
> 
> Then, they go on to say that setting your chroma sampling output is a decision based on how you use your system:
> 
> This is so wrong. You should choose your settings based on which device does the best job at the up-sampling.


OK, but I don't use a disc player and don't buy UHD discs, I have no way to use the Spears and Munsil disk to determine the relative merits of various configurations of devices. I doubt that I can choose chroma sampling options on my Macbook M1, a quick search does not indicate that I can, and I assume any streaming service I use will be sending a 4:2:0 signal. The article above is providing a quick and dirty approach for those who are not going to be seeking optimization.


----------



## Kieran

Orwellflash said:


> OK, but I don't use a disc player and don't buy UHD discs, I have no way to use the Spears and Munsil disk to determine the relative merits of various configurations of devices. I doubt that I can choose chroma sampling options on my Macbook M1, a quick search does not indicate that I can, and I assume any streaming service I use will be sending a 4:2:0 signal. The article above is providing a quick and dirty approach for those who are not going to be seeking optimization.


Hmmm... if you have no way of choosing a chroma sampling level for your video player (streamer, disc, or otherwise) then neither the article you posted, nor the Spears & Munsil article, serve you any purpose other than education. So, if all you want is to learn / be educated about the topic, then read the Spears & Munsil article, since the other one is wrong.  If you don't care to be educated, then I'd just recommend ignoring all this talk about chroma sampling, and enjoy your system.


----------



## Orwellflash

Kieran said:


> Hmmm... if you have no way of choosing a chroma sampling level for your video player (streamer, disc, or otherwise) then neither the article you posted, nor the Spears & Munsil article, serve you any purpose other than education. So, if all you want is to learn / be educated about the topic, then read the Spears & Munsil article, since the other one is wrong.  If you don't care to be educated, then I'd just recommend ignoring all this talk about chroma sampling, and enjoy your system.


Will do. It should go without saying that I did not know that the choice among chroma options required Spears and Munsil before this discussion. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## xmalachi

Does anyone have recommendations for mounting? I purchased a CMA105 so that I could mount that prior to the drywall guys coming out. (Chief CMA-105 4" Ceiling Plate with 1.5" NPT Opening) Is anyone using this particular ceiling plate or should I be going for something heftier? Weight capacity is listed at 500lbs but I'm not sure if that's true. My plan is to put 2x6 into the floor joist with around 3 million nails/screws then mount the CMA 105 directly to that. Otherwise, my plan is to get a CMA357 and SLB357.


----------



## ToddUGA

I’m a fan of the Strong mount due to the micro adjustment dials.






Strong™ Universal Fine Adjust Projector Mount


Universal Projector Mount




www.snapav.com






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


----------



## Fj40jason

JPBoggis said:


> Yes for me it's been set and forget and I have been using the Dolby Vision LLDV 'hack' for over 1 year now - works great with Apple TV 4K, Fire Cube 4K and Sony X800m2.
> 
> HDR slider always stays set on 5 which works best for my setup.
> 
> Only time I've needed to make any adjustments is when watching HLG UHD content on BBC iPlayer which does not benefit from the DV hack (HLG can't be converted to DV)


I can't get the DV to come through with your hack settings. Still shows HDR on the HDF and Denon OSD. However, if I choose a custom EDID like 9 or 10, then the Denon is sending DV to the 5050. The only issue is the 5050 is stating it's getting a SDR signal with the custom EDID. I can manually override the signal to HDR with 5050 settings but don't know if that's the proper thing here.

Isn't the correct position to be DV with HDR signal?

Any idea what's going on here?

Thanks!


Edit: I've got it figured out. I did not understand how the LLDV> HDR output worked until reading some more on it.


----------



## Fj40jason

Latest screen shots. HDF seems to be working well.


----------



## soulcougher73

Hey all,

I am thinking about buying a refurb 5050ub and projecting it onto a painted wall. I read that this model can do 2:35 as well as the standard 16:9. If I'm projecting onto a wall do I have to worry about masking or anything like that if I switch between these 2 modes?

Also are their any recommendations for wall color that it would project onto if it's a dedicated room with no light coming in? The room is 12'x14' with the projector throwing in the 14' direction.

Thanks


----------



## Enchy

Setting up my room in the next two weeks or so. I have a 5050ub in hand and a 120" Silver Ticket screen (which I've not opened). My throw distance is right under 12 feet. According to the calculator (and when I throw to the wall), that size screen will work at that distance. However, will this make the image too dim? I'm painting the ceiling and screen wall black, and the side and rear walls a dark grey. The room will be blocking almost all ambient light as well. I'm mostly just worried that going at the max wide angle on the zoom will make my image too dim.

Should I return the 120" for a 110" or 106" screen? I don't want to open the 120" screen and find out it's too dim and not be able to return it.

Room is 13'x13'4"x9'

Edit: projector cannot be moved closer or further back as my only option is wall mounting to the rear wall

Thanks!


----------



## PixelPusher15

soulcougher73 said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I am thinking about buying a refurb 5050ub and projecting it onto a painted wall. I read that this model can do 2:35 as well as the standard 16:9. If I'm projecting onto a wall do I have to worry about masking or anything like that if I switch between these 2 modes?
> 
> Also are their any recommendations for wall color that it would project onto if it's a dedicated room with no light coming in? The room is 12'x14' with the projector throwing in the 14' direction.
> 
> Thanks


What color are your walls and ceiling? I know some don't worry about masking with the 5050 but there's also others, me included, that use some sort of masking. This projectors black levels are great for $3k but it isn't projecting black. Not only that but it is *very* hard to eliminate all reflections in the room and those reflections will make the "black" bars not so black. Having pure black bars was a large upgrade for me. I built my masking panels with foam, a couple of pieces of poster board to seam the foam together, velvet flock, and magnets to attach em.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> Setting up my room in the next two weeks or so. I have a 5050ub in hand and a 120" Silver Ticket screen (which I've not opened). My throw distance is right under 12 feet. According to the calculator (and when I throw to the wall), that size screen will work at that distance. However, will this make the image too dim? I'm painting the ceiling and screen wall black, and the side and rear walls a dark grey. The room will be blocking almost all ambient light as well. I'm mostly just worried that going at the max wide angle on the zoom will make my image too dim.
> 
> Should I return the 120" for a 110" or 106" screen? I don't want to open the 120" screen and find out it's too dim and not be able to return it.
> 
> Room is 13'x13'4"x9'
> 
> Edit: projector cannot be moved closer or further back as my only option is wall mounting to the rear wall
> 
> Thanks!


Max wide-angle means it will be brighter. The closer you can place the projector the brighter the image. Also, at any zoom length for a 120" screen the 5050 will be plenty bright.

A link to see how brightness is affected by zoom for the 5050: Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Review - Performance: Brightness, Sharpness - Projector Reviews


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> Max wide-angle means it will be brighter. The closer you can place the projector the brighter the image. Also, at any zoom length for a 120" screen the 5050 will be plenty bright.
> 
> A link to see how brightness is affected by zoom for the 5050: Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Review - Performance: Brightness, Sharpness - Projector Reviews


I must misunderstand then how the lenses work! I thought there was light loss at a wider angle and if I went with a smaller screen size (zooming in) that I would gain brightness


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> I must misunderstand then how the lenses work! I thought there was light loss at a wider angle and if I went with a smaller screen size (zooming in) that I would gain brightness


So you are right and wrong lol. Smaller screen size will increase brightness, but also placing the projector as close as possible will also increase brightness. Either way, you don't need to worry about the brightness of anything you will be able to project from 12' away with this projector. There's no way you could think 120" will be dim unless you are using a super dark screen. Here you can play with the throw calculator to see what you'll get: Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projection Calculator - Throw Distance and Screen Size

16fL is recommended for SDR. 30+ is what people hope for with HDR. I'm seeing on a 1.0 gain screen you'll get 60fL in the 5050's brightest mode.


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> So you are right and wrong lol. Smaller screen size will increase brightness, but also placing the projector as close as possible will also increase brightness. Either way, you don't need to worry about the brightness of anything you will be able to project from 12' away with this projector. There's no way you could think 120" will be dim unless you are using a super dark screen. Here you can play with the throw calculator to see what you'll get: Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projection Calculator - Throw Distance and Screen Size
> 
> 16fL is recommended for SDR. 30+ is what people hope for with HDR. I'm seeing on a 1.0 gain screen you'll get 60fL in the 5050's brightest mode.


Awesome. Thank you very much for the help I'm excited to get going! I'm looking to dabble into some 3D blu rays, will 60fL be bright enough for that?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> Awesome. Thank you very much for the help I'm excited to get going! I'm looking to dabble into some 3D blu rays, will 60fL be bright enough for that?


Yup, you'll be fine.


----------



## saipanda

Does anyone know whether the Chief Universal Mount works with the Epson 5050? The website suggests it doesn't, but it also seems peculiar that such a widely used model wouldn't be supported. So I figured I'd check in with others. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Cacitems4sale

I learned something regarding the 4K upscaling of the 6050. I was trying to test the picture quality between the upscaling of the Sony ubp700 vs the upscaling of the 6050. I went into the menu >projector info screen to see if both were upscaling and found that info screen would show the upscale working when the Sony was doing it. However, when I turned it off on the Sony and let the projector upscale the info screen in the projector would only show 1080 even though 4K enhancement was selected under image enhancement. I called Epson customer support and they said that the projector is upscaling to 4K even though the info screen doesn’t reflect that. Does that sound right?


----------



## Keith AP

Cacitems4sale said:


> I learned something regarding the 4K upscaling of the 6050. I was trying to test the picture quality between the upscaling of the Sony ubp700 vs the upscaling of the 6050. I went into the menu >projector info screen to see if both were upscaling and found that info screen would show the upscale working when the Sony was doing it. However, when I turned it off on the Sony and let the projector upscale the info screen in the projector would only show 1080 even though 4K enhancement was selected under image enhancement. I called Epson customer support and they said that the projector is upscaling to 4K even though the info screen doesn’t reflect that. Does that sound right?


Yes, the Info screen displays input source information. User manual also states this.


----------



## DavidK442

Enchy said:


> Awesome. Thank you very much for the help I'm excited to get going! I'm looking to dabble into etsome 3D blu rays, will 60fL be bright enough for that?


All those lumens should give you a bright 3D image. Unfortunately the choice for 3D glasses has really become limited. Epson no longer supplies and other recommended brands have also left the market. Good luck, it will be worth the effort.


----------



## Enchy

DavidK442 said:


> All those lumens should give you a bright 3D image. Unfortunately the choice for 3D glasses has really become limited. Epson no longer supplies and other recommended brands have also left the market. Good luck, it will be worth the effort.


I was just about to ask for glasses recommendations! Looks like there's a ton of generic glasses on eBay/Amazon. I'm guessing I should skip these and try to find some Epson OEM ones? I'm fine buying used.


----------



## DavidK442

Enchy said:


> I was just about to ask for glasses recommendations! Looks like there's a ton of generic glasses on eBay/Amazon. I'm guessing I should skip these and try to find some Epson OEM ones? I'm fine buying used.


The problem with used is that the Epson and many others have non-replaceable rechargeable batteries which effectively puts a hard limit on their life expectancy. Sold as a “feature” but I imagine the manufacturers knew exactly who benefited, and it’s not the consumer.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Enchy said:


> I was just about to ask for glasses recommendations! Looks like there's a ton of generic glasses on eBay/Amazon. I'm guessing I should skip these and try to find some Epson OEM ones? I'm fine buying used.


Hi-shock pro heaven best glasses i have had for both the Sony and now Epson. I also have the cheap Samsung as well as more expensive xpand, and the Hi-shock delivers best performance with Epson. Xpand and Samsung both show too much ghosting is my experience.


----------



## soulcougher73

PixelPusher15 said:


> What color are your walls and ceiling? I know some don't worry about masking with the 5050 but there's also others, me included, that use some sort of masking. This projectors black levels are great for $3k but it isn't projecting black. Not only that but it is *very* hard to eliminate all reflections in the room and those reflections will make the "black" bars not so black. Having pure black bars was a large upgrade for me. I built my masking panels with foam, a couple of pieces of poster board to seam the foam together, velvet flock, and magnets to attach em.


I was thinking to do black ceiling and probably a dark grey/brown color for the side/back walls. Then some kind of grey for the projection wall as well that works well for this projector in a light controlled room.


----------



## DarrinH

Enchy said:


> Setting up my room in the next two weeks or so. I have a 5050ub in hand and a 120" Silver Ticket screen (which I've not opened). My throw distance is right under 12 feet. According to the calculator (and when I throw to the wall), that size screen will work at that distance. However, will this make the image too dim? I'm painting the ceiling and screen wall black, and the side and rear walls a dark grey. The room will be blocking almost all ambient light as well. I'm mostly just worried that going at the max wide angle on the zoom will make my image too dim.
> 
> Should I return the 120" for a 110" or 106" screen? I don't want to open the 120" screen and find out it's too dim and not be able to return it.
> 
> Room is 13'x13'4"x9'
> 
> Edit: projector cannot be moved closer or further back as my only option is wall mounting to the rear wall
> 
> Thanks!


I have a 150" screen at a throw distance of maybe 14' with total light control and the image is great!


----------



## Kieran

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Hi-shock pro heaven best glasses i have had for both the Sony and now Epson. I also have the cheap Samsung as well as more expensive xpand, and the Hi-shock delivers best performance with Epson. Xpand and Samsung both show too much ghosting is my experience.


where/how is the frame sync signal sent from the epson to the glasses? Are they IR or bluetooth? My projector is in a soffit, so I'm thinking I may not be able to watch 3D afterall....


----------



## Cacitems4sale

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Hi-shock pro heaven best glasses i have had for both the Sony and now Epson. I also have the cheap Samsung as well as more expensive xpand, and the Hi-shock delivers best performance with Epson. Xpand and Samsung both show too much ghosting is my experience.


Here is a link with discussion around 3D glasses. 3D Glasses for Epson


----------



## DaGamePimp

saipanda said:


> Does anyone know whether the Chief Universal Mount works with the Epson 5050? The website suggests it doesn't, but it also seems peculiar that such a widely used model wouldn't be supported. So I figured I'd check in with others. Thanks in advance!


Yes, and it works well (be sure to use the locking/security bolts).

I am using the universal but always suggest the direct plate if possible (I could not find one at the time). 

- Jason


----------



## Enchy

I'm planning on using the Amazon basics mount in wall mount configuration like this:









How bad of an idea is this?


----------



## Kieran

Enchy said:


> How bad of an idea is this?


I would try it with some dummy weight first, on a mock-up wall or in your garage, or something, before putting holes in your wall. Also, it probably would work flipped over, if you want. Hard to tell if the bracket/mount would be stronger in the position shown, or flipped over (such that the pj would be right-side up).
My only other thought is where will you route your power and hdmi?


----------



## Enchy

Kieran said:


> I would try it with some dummy weight first, on a mock-up wall or in your garage, or something, before putting holes in your wall. Also, it probably would work flipped over, if you want. Hard to tell if the bracket/mount would be stronger in the position shown, or flipped over (such that the pj would be right-side up).
> My only other thought is where will you route your power and hdmi?


Don't want to do flipped over since part of the appeal is not seeing the ugly bottom of the projector 

I was originally going to build a shelf, until I saw that the Amazon Basics mount there would work flush to the wall allowing me to have the pj in the proper position. Can't mount to the ceiling as there's no joists on the ceiling where I need to put it (decorative soffit).

Dummy weights is a good idea. The amazon listing rates it at 33lb and I've always found those ratings to be fairly conservative. I'm going to use lag bolts into a stud so I'm not worried about it getting ripped off the wall, more the bracket itself failing in some manner.

Power and HDMI will fall off the side and go down the wall. The rear of the projector is slightly curved and I can squeeze the HDMI cable out the side with it still pressed up against the wall. I can use a fairly thin HDMI cable since it's only going ~6ft down the wall to my little AV rack.


----------



## rekbones

Kieran said:


> where/how is the frame sync signal sent from the epson to the glasses? Are they IR or bluetooth? My projector is in a soffit, so I'm thinking I may not be able to watch 3D afterall....


They are Bluetooth so any generic Bluetooth glasses will work as some have mentioned some work better then others.


----------



## fredworld

Cacitems4sale said:


> Here is a link with discussion around 3D glasses. 3D Glasses for Epson


Thanks for referencing my post. Some don't llike those glasses because they don't wrap-around, so there's ambient light intrusion with large screen sizes. My room is light controlled and I have a more accommodating screen size so I'm happy with them. But spend more on a higher end set and you'll probably be even happier.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Kieran said:


> where/how is the frame sync signal sent from the epson to the glasses? Are they IR or bluetooth? My projector is in a soffit, so I'm thinking I may not be able to watch 3D afterall....


Rf


----------



## saipanda

DaGamePimp said:


> Yes, and it works well (be sure to use the locking/security bolts).
> 
> I am using the universal but always suggest the direct plate if possible (I could not find one at the time).
> 
> - Jason


Any difficulties getting the universal to fit?


----------



## DaGamePimp

saipanda said:


> Any difficulties getting the universal to fit?


None at all, it worked out very well and has near perfect weight distribution (excellent balance, adjustment was easy even with a slanted mount pole).

- Jason


----------



## hms17B

Just got one of these and paired it with a Panasonic 820 player. Pleased so far. Will need to get a real screen (100") to replace the old blackout cloth one I made years ago. I'm letting the lamp break in on high for the first 100 hours, then will go to medium. Hopefully that will avoid any lamp problems I've read about. I have the Spears and Munsil disc and will use that to improve whatever I can if I can. I think this should all work out pretty well.

I was considering a few different choices, but picked the Epson 5050 over the others...
1) Didn't want to wait a year for a possible Epson replacement model. If there even will be one.
2) DLP all seem to have rainbow effect to some degree.
3) Others don't have enough kens shift. The Epson has way more than enough.
4) Others except JVC D-ILA have worse blacks. 5050 is pretty good but I'd have been real disappointed with anything less.
5) JVC D-ILA is too expensive and longer throw than my setup requires. A bit too heavy too. And with rear air intake can't go against the back wall close enough.

So I didn't see any reasonable alternative to the Epson 5050UB. Was considering the LG HU-810P for a time but possible rainbows there plus not quite enough lens shift plus worse blacks disqaulified it for me. For a fairly modest setup in a pretty small room the 5050 doesn't seem to be beatable.


----------



## Gjlaplante

It's been a while since my last post. I'm constantly looking for ways to get the absolute maximum performance from this already great projector. I recently purchased the HDFury Arcana to take advantage of the Dolby Vision hack and by all accounts it works. The only thing I have a question about is why does the projector only show that it is in SDR? The input/output signal all show the same EDID 
4k30 422 BT2020 12bit LLDV. Projector itself is showing 4k 24 422 12bit BT2020 SDR while playing content though. Can anyone explain?


----------



## Enchy

Is there a post I can reference for the Dolby Vision hack?


----------



## Orwellflash

Enchy said:


> Is there a post I can reference for the Dolby Vision hack?





Gjlaplante said:


> It's been a while since my last post. I'm constantly looking for ways to get the absolute maximum performance from this already great projector. I recently purchased the HDFury Arcana to take advantage of the Dolby Vision hack and by all accounts it works. The only thing I have a question about is why does the projector only show that it is in SDR? The input/output signal all show the same EDID
> 4k30 422 BT2020 12bit LLDV. Projector itself is showing 4k 24 422 12bit BT2020 SDR while playing content though. Can anyone explain?


This is the thread that I would check.









Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? This is a HDFury DV LLDV EDID exploit of the Dolby Vision Profile 5 layer included in the DV spec for display manufacturers and models like the Sony A1 OLED. This thread is duplicating Dave's experience using the HDFury Vertex...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Fj40jason

Gjlaplante said:


> It's been a while since my last post. I'm constantly looking for ways to get the absolute maximum performance from this already great projector. I recently purchased the HDFury Arcana to take advantage of the Dolby Vision hack and by all accounts it works. The only thing I have a question about is why does the projector only show that it is in SDR? The input/output signal all show the same EDID
> 4k30 422 BT2020 12bit LLDV. Projector itself is showing 4k 24 422 12bit BT2020 SDR while playing content though. Can anyone explain?


You have something off and I am not 100% sure the Arcana works correct.
The HDF sends HDR signal to the PJ.
I was under the impression it had to be a Diva or Vertex product for the hack to work correctly.

If you post over in the video processing threads, the HD Fury guy plus a few others are very responsive and helpful with these settings.
If you export your config and attach it to a post, it makes things easier.


----------



## mon2479

Gjlaplante said:


> It's been a while since my last post. I'm constantly looking for ways to get the absolute maximum performance from this already great projector. I recently purchased the HDFury Arcana to take advantage of the Dolby Vision hack and by all accounts it works. The only thing I have a question about is why does the projector only show that it is in SDR? The input/output signal all show the same EDID
> 4k30 422 BT2020 12bit LLDV. Projector itself is showing 4k 24 422 12bit BT2020 SDR while playing content though. Can anyone explain?


I have the ARCANA, my setup is as follows:
ATV4K>ARCANA>RECEIVER>PROJECTOR
I get HDR on 5050s info page, my guess would be it's in the ARCANA menu settings. I think I have it all set to AUTO except for LLDV>HDR> *ON, BT2020 If you can get HDR on the info page without the ARCANA, then check the settings on it.


----------



## Hawkmarket

mon2479 said:


> I have the ARCANA, my setup is as follows:
> ATV4K>ARCANA>RECEIVER>PROJECTOR
> I get HDR on 5050s info page, my guess would be it's in the ARCANA menu settings. I think I have it all set to AUTO except for LLDV>HDR> *ON, BT2020 If you can get HDR on the info page without the ARCANA, then check the settings on it.


Has this added a noticeable difference watching Apple TV Dolby Vision content or is it just a subtle difference? I realize we are using subjective terms but I'm just trying to get a feel for others experience with this. I realize mileage may vary.


----------



## mon2479

Hawkmarket said:


> Has this added a noticeable difference watching Apple TV Dolby Vision content or is it just a subtle difference? I realize we are using subjective terms but I'm just trying to get a feel for others experience with this. I realize mileage may vary.


I really enjoy the PQ, it was $200 well spent. The setup was super easy as well. While watching HDR movies, my choice is digital cinema, except for "cartoon movies", I use dynamic which I found some settings here that make the blacks really pop like OLED. I didnt have to mess with the audio settings since I dont have a sonos, I think my receiver is feed a 2 channel signal then converts to Dolby digital. I bought mine from Amazon, so I had a 30 day return policy. I cant remember what HDF's return policy is though.


----------



## Kieran

mon2479 said:


> I really enjoy the PQ, it was $200 well spent. The setup was super easy as well. While watching HDR movies, my choice is digital cinema, except for "cartoon movies", I use dynamic which I found some settings here that make the blacks really pop like OLED. I didnt have to mess with the audio settings since I dont have a sonos, I think my receiver is feed a 2 channel signal then converts to Dolby digital. I bought mine from Amazon, so I had a 30 day return policy. I cant remember what HDF's return policy is though.


Is the Arcana limited to a 2ch audio output? That stinks.


----------



## mon2479

Kieran said:


> Is the Arcana limited to a 2ch audio output? That stinks.


Yeah, I hit pure direct on my yamaha and 2 channel mode kicked in. I guess if u think about it, the ARCANA is ment for a SONOS which is 2 channel. It's all god though, receiver is in 7.2 mode


----------



## PixelPusher15

The Arcana is not 2CH only. It’s meant for the Sonos Arc which is Atmos capable. HDFurys first bullet point for its feature list is this:

*Full Audio up to Atmos/TrueHD from any HDMI source/output to SONOS Arc or any eARC sound system*


----------



## satyab

If I use the projector for purely 1080P Blurays and HD streaming, does 5050 adds anything over 5040UB.


----------



## Kieran

satyab said:


> If I use the projector for purely 1080P Blurays and HD streaming, does 5050 adds anything over 5040UB.


better blacks, higher output = better contrast = generally better picture overall. That said, the better blacks won't be noticeable except in the darkest of dark dedicated home theaters.
I don't recall if the 5050ub was able to achieve more of the bt2020 color gamut or not. If so you might notice slightly more vivid colors when properly calibrated.
Other than that, I'm not aware of any features that would make a difference for you.


----------



## Kieran

mon2479 said:


> Yeah, I hit pure direct on my yamaha and 2 channel mode kicked in. I guess if u think about it, the ARCANA is ment for a SONOS which is 2 channel. It's all god though, receiver is in 7.2 mode


Just because your receiver is producing sound on 7.2 channels, doesn't mean you have the original 7.2 channel sound that the original source/movie was encoded with. If the soundtrack is downsampled to 2ch, then upsampled to 7.2 by your receiver, you most certainly do NOT have the original surround sound effects with which the movie was made.
To each their own, but if it were me, the original Atmos sound is more important than the improvements going from HDR10 to LLDV. I would look into setting it up to get pass-through of the original soundtrack, if I were you.


----------



## Kieran

mon2479 said:


> Yeah, I hit pure direct on my yamaha and 2 channel mode kicked in. I guess if u think about it, the ARCANA is ment for a SONOS which is 2 channel. It's all god though, receiver is in 7.2 mode


One other note for you, slightly off-topic: 
I do not recommend using "pure direct" on your Yamaha, except for listening to pure 2 channel music, where you want the cleanest reproduction of what's on the source media (e.g. CD or SACD, etc.)
For Home Theater, pure-direct is going to strip you of many, many essential features of your AVR, most importantly bass management.
On my Yamaha (7 years old) in pure direct, there's no surround sound. Just 2ch. The 2 channels are full-range, so the subwoofer gets nothing. 
Also if you have used YPAO to calibrate your speakers and do room correction, all of that is bypassed.
Pure direct is cool for what it is, but it's really for 2ch sources only. For movies, leave it off.


----------



## Fj40jason

Hawkmarket said:


> Has this added a noticeable difference watching Apple TV Dolby Vision content or is it just a subtle difference? I realize we are using subjective terms but I'm just trying to get a feel for others experience with this. I realize mileage may vary.


This is very subjective.
For a good DV perspective, go read some of the 4kUHD reviews by Ralph Potts in the BRD section. (plus his reviews are very well done)
He describes the DV in movie reviews really well and can give you some insight to the differences.


----------



## satyab

Kieran said:


> better blacks, higher output = better contrast = generally better picture overall. That said, the better blacks won't be noticeable except in the darkest of dark dedicated home theaters.
> I don't recall if the 5050ub was able to achieve more of the bt2020 color gamut or not. If so you might notice slightly more vivid colors when properly calibrated.
> Other than that, I'm not aware of any features that would make a difference for you.


I use NX7 for the 4K/HDR content. This is mostly for 2K BDs and HD streaming. I used 5040UB for about 2 years before I sold it in 2019 and I really liked it.
I know 5050 added 18GB HDMI support and extra lumens. I am wondering if improvements in 5050 for 1080P content justifies the extra cost. I could get 5040 Refurb unit for $1500.

Thanks.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Fj40jason said:


> This is very subjective.
> For a good DV perspective, go read some of the 4kUHD reviews by Ralph Potts in the BRD section. (plus his reviews are very well done)
> He describes the DV in movie reviews really well and can give you some insight to the differences.



Will do. I'm just looking for perspective on those that have had a 5050 pre and post DV Hack and if they thought the difference in watching this projector was meaningful....or just a little different. I believe Ralph has a JVC NX7.


----------



## Fj40jason

Hawkmarket said:


> Will do. I'm just looking for perspective on those that have had a 5050 pre and post DV Hack and if they thought the difference in watching this projector was meaningful....or just a little different. I believe Ralph has a JVC NX7.


It's not an easy answer. I think it's a nice upgrade and wanted to maximize the PJ picture. Others may not see the value.


----------



## IslaTurbine

My 15 month old 6050 with about 1000 hours on the lamp threw a Cinema Filter pop up error message the other day. It went away after about 30 seconds and then watched some content for about 3 hours. Just before shutting off the unit, I went into the Lens Color setting to switch from Bright Cinema back to Cinema. The projector then suddenly blanked the screen and went into a high fan speed with the blue and both orange lights simultaneously blinking. The concierge customer service line sent a refurb unit within 2 days. I came out of the box with 0 hours on the lamp. I'll be shipping back the original unit soon (on their dime, of course). Has anyone heard of this type of error before? Is it normal for the warranty replacement to be a refurb? And is it normal for a refurb to have an unused lamp?


----------



## fredworld

IslaTurbine said:


> My 15 month old 6050 with about 1000 hours on the lamp threw a Cinema Filter pop up error message the other day. It went away after about 30 seconds and then watched some content for about 3 hours. Just before shutting off the unit, I went into the Lens Color setting to switch from Bright Cinema back to Cinema. The projector then suddenly blanked the screen and went into a high fan speed with the blue and both orange lights simultaneously blinking. The concierge customer service line sent a refurb unit within 2 days. I came out of the box with 0 hours on the lamp. I'll be shipping back the original unit soon (on their dime, of course). Has anyone heard of this type of error before? Is it normal for the warranty replacement to be a refurb? And is it normal for a refurb to have an unused lamp?


No, yes (if it's beyond thirty days) and yes.


----------



## Kieran

IslaTurbine said:


> Has anyone heard of this type of error before? Is it normal for the warranty replacement to be a refurb? And is it normal for a refurb to have an unused lamp?


IME, every single piece of consumer electronics I have ever got warrantied (not very many) has been replaced with a refurb unit. It falls under the mfr's terms that state they will "repair or replace at our option." A refurb is kind of a repaired replacement.


----------



## Azeron

Hey today just arrived my 9400 (6050ub) I am blow away even with 1080p content cant play 4k HDR because got old and long HDMI and new optic arrive tomorrow but immediately saw in the blank mode or in dark scenes on left top corner blue light or something like it and on mid i think burnet pixel can you tell me what it is?


----------



## fredworld

Azeron said:


> Hey today just arrived my 9400 (6050ub) I am blow away even with 1080p content cant play 4k HDR because got old and long HDMI and new optic arrive tomorrow but immediately saw in the blank mode or in dark scenes on left top corner blue light or something like it and on mid i think burnet pixel can you tell me what it is?
> View attachment 3136669
> View attachment 3136670


Doesn't look right to me. I'd contact Epson or the seller to discuss replacement.


----------



## PaulF757

Hi all, just mounted my EPSON 6050ub, and I'm new to this HT hobby, can anyone recommend a good place to start reading on the Coles notes of this projector? I have a dedicated HT room, fully light controlled. I know this thread his huge so I thought Id start here. 

Thanks.


----------



## fredworld

PaulF757 said:


> Hi all, just mounted my EPSON 6050ub, and I'm new to this HT hobby, can anyone recommend a good place to start reading on the Coles notes of this projector? I have a dedicated HT room, fully light controlled. I know this thread his huge so I thought Id start here.
> 
> Thanks.


Congrats. The *Quick Set Up* and *User's Guide* are both good starts. Learned much about my 5050UB from its respective guides. I printed out mine and keep them handy for quick reference. The *Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark disc* is a great resource for dialing in the image but a good read of the *UHD Article* will help you understand what you're seeing. I used no equipment other than my eyes and a color filter (that can be obtained separately) and just 4 or 5 patterns on the disc to give me a highly pleasing image with good shadow detail and color. With my set-up (see signature) I use Digital Cinema and, for the most part, Auto Iris OFF. EDID on Enhanced. I hope this helps.


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> I used no equipment other than my eyes and the color filter that comes with the disc and just 4 or 5 patterns on the disc to give me a highly pleasing image with good shadow detail and color.


The 3rd edition UHD disc does not come with color filters. Maybe you had those from a previous release? They don't recommend filters for modern UHD/HDR displays any more. They include the color patterns for displays that have the ability to display only pure green, red, and blue separately (not many displays do this.)


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> The 3rd edition UHD disc does not come with color filters. Maybe you had those from a previous release? They don't recommend filters for modern UHD/HDR displays any more. They include the color patterns for displays that have the ability to display only pure green, red, and blue separately (not many displays do this.)


Ah, my bad. I knew that but forgot. I edited my post. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.


----------



## consman

Any chance of updated models dropping this year? Maybe a new launch at Cedia? Getting an itch to upgrade to 4k from my old 1080 DLP, but hoping for a new line with some frame by frame auto tone mapping.


----------



## DavidK442

consman said:


> Any chance of updated models dropping this year? Maybe a new launch at Cedia? Getting an itch to upgrade to 4k from my old 1080 DLP, but hoping for a new line with some frame by frame auto tone mapping.


My first wish would be that JVC drops the price of 4K DILA, but as that is unlikely, I will join you in prayer for an upgraded Epson UB.


----------



## hms17B

Since I just got a new 5050UB a couple of weeks ago, and since the laws of irony are immutable, the probability of new models this year must now be 100%. What do you want that the current UBs do not have? The new will have it. And they'll even drop the price.

Actually, I'm not too worried. I'm immensely happy with it so far. I use a Panasonic DP-UB820P-K for UHD and a DP-UB420P-K for 1080p/DVD (figured to save wear and tear by splitting amongst two possibly-last-generation players). I've thought the HDR is very good and have not yet felt the need to be adjusting it as I watch. It's on high lamp now for break-in but I'll go to medium afterward - for my 100" screen I think high will be too bright. Also using a Denon AVR-X3700H passing the video thru that - doesn't seem to cause any problems in the image that I can see with the Spears and Munsil UHD disc. 

Blacks look very good. I could still long for a JVC, but I know I'd have been disappointed with the various BENQs, LG, etc that the 5050UB is commonly compared with, since all those are always reviewed to have poorer black than the Epson. Epson is good enough, but worse black would not be satisfactory for me. I may get even better as I go thru more test patterns, but it seems to be close to what I read of others opinions on black level.

My experience is only with discs, though. And for UHD all my discs are ones highly rated for their HDR10. More problematic source material I'll probably never have so can't speak on that area. But good discs do look good on it.

I decided that even if Epson does bring out new this year, if they release them for sale on a similar schedule to the past, we won't be able to buy them until next spring. I wasn't willing to wait that long. And I have to buy some wanted UHD titles sooner rather than later as they may well go out of production before new equipment comes out - wait and I may never get them, nor do I want to buy titles and not be able to watch them for a long time. So what choice but to get the Epson now. As they say, your mileage may vary, but for my situation I'm very pleased with the 5050UB.


----------



## Orwellflash

I got mine about 3 months ago. I'm very pleased. Clear improvement on my 5030, mainly because of HDR. As for things to wish for, by most accounts, dynamic tone mapping would be nice to have. I have a totally light controlled theater and a 1.1 gain Cima screen. The settings from Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews *and* Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com when in agreement work very well. If you have similar light and screen, you might want to try those. I don't have enough hours on the projector or the time to calibrate it right now.


----------



## DavidK442

hms17B said:


> Since I just got a new 5050UB a couple of weeks ago, and since the laws of irony are immutable, the probability of new models this year must now be 100%. What do you want that the current UBs do not have? The new will have it. And they'll even drop the price.
> 
> Actually, I'm not too worried. I'm immensely happy with it so far. I use a Panasonic DP-UB820P-K for UHD and a DP-UB420P-K for 1080p/DVD (figured to save wear and tear by splitting amongst two possibly-last-generation players). I've thought the HDR is very good and have not yet felt the need to be adjusting it as I watch. It's on high lamp now for break-in but I'll go to medium afterward - for my 100" screen I think high will be too bright. Also using a Denon AVR-X3700H passing the video thru that - doesn't seem to cause any problems in the image that I can see with the Spears and Munsil UHD disc.
> 
> Blacks look very good. I could still long for a JVC, but I know I'd have been disappointed with the various BENQs, LG, etc that the 5050UB is commonly compared with, since all those are always reviewed to have poorer black than the Epson. Epson is good enough, but worse black would not be satisfactory for me. I may get even better as I go thru more test patterns, but it seems to be close to what I read of others opinions on black level.
> 
> My experience is only with discs, though. And for UHD all my discs are ones highly rated for their HDR10. More problematic source material I'll probably never have so can't speak on that area. But good discs do look good on it.
> 
> I decided that even if Epson does bring out new this year, if they release them for sale on a similar schedule to the past, we won't be able to buy them until next spring. I wasn't willing to wait that long. And I have to buy some wanted UHD titles sooner rather than later as they may well go out of production before new equipment comes out - wait and I may never get them, nor do I want to buy titles and not be able to watch them for a long time. So what choice but to get the Epson now. As they say, your mileage may vary, but for my situation I'm very pleased with the 5050UB.


An excellent post with rational perspective. I share your concern about losing physical media and have been collecting my favourite movies on UHD as well. Finding many titles not even released in Canada. I also have two 4K disc players. The problem is that I refuse to watch any UHD until I step up to a new projector, so my fingers are crossed for an Epson upgrade. Alien, Blade Runner and others will have to wait. You are correct about the other options; DLP black levels would disappoint and JVC would be fiscally irresponsible.


----------



## hms17B

I'm coming from a 10yr-old Sanyo and the improvement is immense, but I'm wondering if native 4K and/or DTM would really be worth waiting almost another year for. Considering the recent LG HU810P and its various reviews, the 505UB has not been dethroned at this price point. Nothing can best its placement flexibility at any reasonable price, nor its black level short of double the price. Maybe Epson doesn't feel as much pressure to improve as we might wish they did. Who knows.


----------



## Luminated67

hms17B said:


> I'm coming from a 10yr-old Sanyo and the improvement is immense, but I'm wondering if native 4K and/or DTM would really be worth waiting almost another year for. Considering the recent LG HU810P and its various reviews, the 505UB has not been dethroned at this price point. Nothing can best its placement flexibility at any reasonable price, nor its black level short of double the price. Maybe Epson doesn't feel as much pressure to improve as we might wish they did. Who knows.


I think it is coming but I very much doubt it will be at the 5050/6050 price point if and when it does.


----------



## xmalachi

I’m not sure if this thread would be the best place for this but I figured there’s likely experience here that could help me. I was thinking about my new setup this morning (construction still in progress so no theater as of yet). I have some older audio equipment that I am going to be utilizing for my theater:

Onkyo NR626
Chane Audio (bought when Arx) A3 x2, A1 x 2, and A2 as center
SVS SB-2000 Pro

As I was thinking this morning, the receiver is going to be a bottleneck for this projector, right? Does anyone have suggestions that might work in my setup? I’m pretty inexperienced with home theater and have always had trouble trying to decipher the specifications on receivers relative to wattage and what I might need to drive my speakers/sub. If I understand correctly, I need to find something with HDMI 2.0 support to ensure that I’m getting full use out of my projector. I’m likely to stick with a 5.x setup potentially adding another sub in the future. Let me know if there’s other details that I can provide or if this would be better suited elsewhere. Thanks!


----------



## fredworld

xmalachi said:


> I’m not sure if this thread would be the best place for this but I figured there’s likely experience here that could help me. I was thinking about my new setup this morning (construction still in progress so no theater as of yet). I have some older audio equipment that I am going to be utilizing for my theater:
> 
> Onkyo NR626
> Chane Audio (bought when Arx) A3 x2, A1 x 2, and A2 as center
> SVS SB-2000 Pro
> 
> As I was thinking this morning, the receiver is going to be a bottleneck for this projector, right? Does anyone have suggestions that might work in my setup? I’m pretty inexperienced with home theater and have always had trouble trying to decipher the specifications on receivers relative to wattage and what I might need to drive my speakers/sub. If I understand correctly, I need to find something with HDMI 2.0 support to ensure that I’m getting full use out of my projector. I’m likely to stick with a 5.x setup potentially adding another sub in the future. Let me know if there’s other details that I can provide or if this would be better suited elsewhere. Thanks!


You might do better in the *Receivers/Processors Forum* but FWIW I think you should be alright as long as your 4K sources are 24hz because your NR626 has HDMI 1.4a which isn't 60hz capable or you can run your source's video signal direct to the 5050/6050 projector and audio through your Onkyo. Otherwise, you can look into an AVR or pre-pro that more closely suits your needed specifications. I hope this helps.


----------



## xmalachi

fredworld said:


> You might do better in the *Receivers/Processors Forum* but FWIW I think you should be alright as long as your 4K sources are 24hz because your NR626 has HDMI 1.4a which isn't 60hz capable or you can run your source's video signal direct to the 5050/6050 projector and audio through your Onkyo. Otherwise, you can look into an AVR or pre-pro that more closely suits your needed specifications. I hope this helps.


Thanks! I appreciate the response, I posted a thread up over there as well.


----------



## Ian H

If one wanted to, could the 5050 and 6060 project in a 4:3 ratio ?


----------



## Northern_Lights

I'm about to update from 1.03 to 1.04 firmware. I don't recall: should the file I save to my USB drive be the .bin file? Or should I extract the .bin file?

In other words, should the file on the USB drive be:

EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin.cpgz

or

EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin

Thanks!


----------



## DaGamePimp

Northern_Lights said:


> I'm about to update from 1.03 to 1.04 firmware. I don't recall: should the file I save to my USB drive be the .bin file? Or should I extract the .bin file?
> 
> In other words, should the file on the USB drive be:
> 
> EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin.cpgz
> 
> or
> 
> EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin
> 
> Thanks!


Extracted .bin file to the root of the drive.

- Jason


----------



## rekbones

Ian H said:


> If one wanted to, could the 5050 and 6060 project in a 4:3 ratio ?


The projector is native 16:9 so just like a TV. Can the projector fill a 4:3, yes assuming 4:3 content and the projected black bars will be off to the sides off the screen as this is how a projector differs from a TV. So the answer is yes and no.


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## Ian H

Thanks for your explanation


----------



## Northern_Lights

DaGamePimp said:


> Extracted .bin file to the root of the drive.
> 
> - Jason


Thanks Jason. I copied EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin.cpgz to the root of the drive. However, I'm following Epson's firmware update instructions - http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf - and the update is not working. I hold down the power button, plug the power cord back in, see the indicator lights all come on solid, release the power button, and then the projector just has the power light lit up blue and doesn't do anything. The instructions say all the indicator lights should remain on for 75 seconds, then start flashing (to indicate the update is working). This doesn't happen.

I updated to 1.03 last year and I could've sword the procedure was a little different from what's being explained in this official Epson PDF. What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Northern_Lights

Northern_Lights said:


> Thanks Jason. I copied EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin.cpgz to the root of the drive. However, I'm following Epson's firmware update instructions - http://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530400en.pdf - and the update is not working. I hold down the power button, plug the power cord back in, see the indicator lights all come on solid, release the power button, and then the projector just has the power light lit up blue and doesn't do anything. The instructions say all the indicator lights should remain on for 75 seconds, then start flashing (to indicate the update is working). This doesn't happen.
> 
> I updated to 1.03 last year and I could've sword the procedure was a little different from what's being explained in this official Epson PDF. What am I doing wrong?


Nevermind. I misunderstood your original message and had the .cpgz file copied to the drive. Needed to be the file ending with .bin, not extracted.


----------



## Maineiac12

Looks like Epson has more 5050UB refurbs available now. However, the price has gone up a bit from when I bought one in March.


----------



## plain fan

I've never looked at the Epson website for refurbished projectors, but do they always show "CLOSEOUT" above the 5050 refurbished units?


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## Orwellflash

plain fan said:


> I've never looked at the Epson website for refurbished projectors, but do they always show "CLOSEOUT" above the 5050 refurbished units?


I don't remember seeing that before, but they have it on every refurb, so I don't think it is meaningful.


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## rafiks

Maineiac12 said:


> Looks like Epson has more 5050UB refurbs available now. However, the price has gone up a bit from when I bought one in March.


I jumped on this deal.
I am trying to find instructions on what to do first when it arrives.
This will be my first projector. Do people calibrate this projector or just start off with somebody settings and adjust them?


----------



## fredworld

rafiks said:


> I jumped on this deal.
> I am trying to find instructions on what to do first when it arrives.
> This will be my first projector. Do people calibrate this projector or just start off with somebody settings and adjust them?


*See this post.*


----------



## Orwellflash

rafiks said:


> I jumped on this deal.
> I am trying to find instructions on what to do first when it arrives.
> This will be my first projector. Do people calibrate this projector or just start off with somebody settings and adjust them?


Lamps lose brightness rapidly for the first 100 hours or so--if you calibrate, you should wait until the lamp has that many hours on it. Using calibration settings from reviews is hit or miss, particularly if your light control, screen size and type are different from those used by the calibrators. I have conditions and equipment that closely match some calibrations posted in reviews, and I got very good results using those settings. I wouldn't change calibration settings before reading a tutorial on calibration, so you understand what you are doing--need to understand gamma, RGB balance, greyscale. YRMV, Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews and Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com Look for the settings that they both came up with, when there is a difference between the two, go with the one that changes the default settings less. Get the online owners manual and go through it. Also, check for color convergence with the panel alignment features in your menu. BTW, don't be surprised if you don't need to adjust it. I checked my 5030 and my 5050, both were perfect out of the box. Still, I have seen a few report that they needed minor adjustments.


----------



## hms17B

What about panel alignment? Seems to me it must be digital and not mechanical. How could they actually physically reposition the panels? Maybe shift the whole panel or rotate about various axes, but not at a single intersection leaving the other intersections as is. They must be shifting lines/columns of pixels a small section per intersection. Sort of like digital keystone adjustment. Which then would not map the pixels 1:1 in the panels. At least not the red or blue sub-pixels. Anybody know how this actually works? Maybe fixes one problem by creating another?


----------



## fredworld

hms17B said:


> What about panel alignment? Seems to me it must be digital and not mechanical. How could they actually physically reposition the panels? Maybe shift the whole panel or rotate about various axes, but not at a single intersection leaving the other intersections as is. They must be shifting lines/columns of pixels a small section per intersection. Sort of like digital keystone adjustment. Which then would not map the pixels 1:1 in the panels. At least not the red or blue sub-pixels. Anybody know how this actually works? Maybe fixes one problem by creating another?


I can't explain HOW it works but pages 89-92 of the *User's Manual* addresses Panel Alignment procedures. The instructions address intersectional alignment for Red and Blue. Green is fixed.


----------



## Orwellflash

hms17B said:


> What about panel alignment? Seems to me it must be digital and not mechanical. How could they actually physically reposition the panels? Maybe shift the whole panel or rotate about various axes, but not at a single intersection leaving the other intersections as is. They must be shifting lines/columns of pixels a small section per intersection. Sort of like digital keystone adjustment. Which then would not map the pixels 1:1 in the panels. At least not the red or blue sub-pixels. Anybody know how this actually works? Maybe fixes one problem by creating another?


It is mechanical, at least it can be. Here is a sobering tutorial on adjusting the panels on a LCD projector without any alignment interface. How to align the red-green-blue (RGB) LCD panels (adjust convergence) of a Sharp XG-P10XU Projector – HelloNULL


----------



## AVTimme

I got near perfect results with my panel alignment. After I did it the picture is now even better than it was before


----------



## rafiks

How is the Xbox 1 S as a UHD source? Should I be getting a better player to pair with 5050ub?


----------



## hms17B

Orwellflash said:


> It is mechanical, at least it can be. Here is a sobering tutorial on adjusting the panels on a LCD projector without any alignment interface. How to align the red-green-blue (RGB) LCD panels (adjust convergence) of a Sharp XG-P10XU Projector – HelloNULL


I don't think the 5050/6050 does it like that. That will move an entire panel all at once which would not be able to move only a small section of it leaving the rest unmoved. Epson panel alignment can move only a portion at a time - the area around a single alignment intersection. To do that mechanically they'd have to distort the panel somehow, or have something like fixed partial pixel-shift done multiple times over the panel area, or even optical with multiple elements of some kind? Seems like mechanical would be excessively complex, and expensive, if even possible. What else could it be but digital here? And so would seem to be like digital keystone only separated into red and blue. But digital wouldn't be a true alignment since relocating anything in one direction would have to squeeze out something at the boundaries, like digital keystone does. So gain a bit here but lose a bit there.


----------



## hms17B

AVTimme said:


> I got near perfect results with my panel alignment. After I did it the picture is now even better than it was before


Good to hear that. I saw it mentioned in reviews but not actually attempted. I gave it a try myself but didn't keep it when it occurred to me that it might be digital. It's nice that it resets so easily (maybe an indicator that it is digital). I'll try it again with the Spears & Munsil disc to see if I can see anything possibly amiss after adjustment. Then again not having the full 4x2K pixels displayed, there might not be much noticeable if anything does get squeezed out. And considering the number of squares the alignment divides into, each division is at least several hundred pixels and any movement by just a few pixels could be easily hidden in that.


----------



## Orwellflash

hms17B said:


> I don't think the 5050/6050 does it like that. That will move an entire panel all at once which would not be able to move only a small section of it leaving the rest unmoved. Epson panel alignment can move only a portion at a time - the area around a single alignment intersection. To do that mechanically they'd have to distort the panel somehow, or have something like fixed partial pixel-shift done multiple times over the panel area, or even optical with multiple elements of some kind? Seems like mechanical would be excessively complex, and expensive, if even possible. What else could it be but digital here? And so would seem to be like digital keystone only separated into red and blue. But digital wouldn't be a true alignment since relocating anything in one direction would have to squeeze out something at the boundaries, like digital keystone does. So gain a bit here but lose a bit there.


LCD projectors have 3 separate panels in the shape of a U, with the open side facing toward the lens--one in the middle, the green, which is fixed, on the right, the red panel, and the left, the blue panel, both red and blue are moveable. You do one at a time, just red or blue moving with respect to two other fixed panels. So, you are not twisting the whole panel. But you are right that moving a whole pixel will push a pixel wide border out of sight--though you will never notice it. Adjusting the alignment in partial pixels involves trade offs, with sharpness/resolution being reduced, though only marginally. If you can't see any impact on the image from your sitting distance, you are better off leaving it alone, even if you can see a misalignment when standing next to the screen. See this input from Haflich and Statt, who have had a lot of experience with convergence adjustments: Fine Pixel adjustment question


----------



## hms17B

Orwellflash said:


> LCD projectors have 3 separate panels in the shape of a U, with the open side facing toward the lens--one in the middle, the green, which is fixed, on the right, the red panel, and the left, the blue panel, both red and blue are moveable. You do one at a time, just red or blue moving with respect to two other fixed panels. So, you are not twisting the whole panel. But you are right that moving a whole pixel will push a pixel wide border out of sight--though you will never notice it. Adjusting the alignment in partial pixels involves trade offs, with sharpness/resolution being reduced, though only marginally. If you can't see any impact on the image from your sitting distance, you are better off leaving it alone, even if you can see a misalignment when standing next to the screen. See this input from Haflich and Statt, who have had a lot of experience with convergence adjustments: Fine Pixel adjustment question


But this Epson alignment can adjust only a part of the panel area at a time. The alignment in the menu lets you pick intersections - quite a few of them. You can adjust at a single intersection without adjusting any of the others. If the whole panel is moved then all intersections will move, not just one. Which leads me to believe that the adjustment must be digital. Which like digital keystone could have a downside. I'm not noticing misalignment from my viewing position unadjusted. I'll play around a bit and see what it looks like when adjusting. And I agree that it's probably better to leave it alone unless you can see something rather noticeable.


----------



## Viche

A sales rep at a local dealer told me that there would be a price increase coming for the 5050 in the next month or so. Anyone else hear this or was the guy just pressuring me to buy?


----------



## Orwellflash

hms17B said:


> But this Epson alignment can adjust only a part of the panel area at a time. The alignment in the menu lets you pick intersections - quite a few of them. You can adjust at a single intersection without adjusting any of the others. If the whole panel is moved then all intersections will move, not just one. Which leads me to believe that the adjustment must be digital. Which like digital keystone could have a downside. I'm not noticing misalignment from my viewing position unadjusted. I'll play around a bit and see what it looks like when adjusting. And I agree that it's probably better to leave it alone unless you can see something rather noticeable.


Could be. I can't find anything that explains how Epson does its convergence adjustment. Haflich says that it just hides the imperfection, it does not correct it, and that you are either pushing pixel lines out or losing some definition by adjusting. If the adjustment is small, however, you won't be able to see the loss in definition and it can significantly reduce color ringing. He said, BTW, that he has never seen a JVC projector that needed a whole pixel adjustment. I can't imagine going beyond a center and 4 corner adjustment. I would be requesting a replacement at that point. The lack of posts about Epson alignment suggest that my experience is the norm--no alignment necessary. So, the process is more of a due diligence check than anything else. When I did it, I couldn't see any ghosting standing with my nose inches from the screen until I changed the setting several steps, then I could see the color ghosting of misalignment. The default setting was best.


----------



## Orwellflash

Viche said:


> A sales rep at a local dealer told me that there would be a price increase coming for the 5050 in the next month or so. Anyone else hear this or was the guy just pressuring me to buy?


The price of refurbs went up $100 recently. It could be true. Inflation is picking up and supply shortages. For ex. "in early May copper hit a record high, at $10,460 a ton, and has since remained above $10,000.” It has almost doubled in price in the space of a year and there seems little reason to think it will reverse."


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> But this Epson alignment can adjust only a part of the panel area at a time. The alignment in the menu lets you pick intersections - quite a few of them. You can adjust at a single intersection without adjusting any of the others. If the whole panel is moved then all intersections will move, not just one. Which leads me to believe that the adjustment must be digital. Which like digital keystone could have a downside. I'm not noticing misalignment from my viewing position unadjusted. I'll play around a bit and see what it looks like when adjusting. And I agree that it's probably better to leave it alone unless you can see something rather noticeable.


My guess is that it is a combo of each mechanical and digital correction and that’s why they have you do the intersection adjustments last.


----------



## plain fan

I wish we could physically align the panels ourselves then tweak electronically. Of course I come from the CRT days when the first step was to mechanically align the the two outer tubes to the fixed center tube and then adjust the pots on the individual cards to get pin point alignment. 🤣


----------



## Orwellflash

plain fan said:


> I wish we could physically align the panels ourselves then tweak electronically. Of course I come from the CRT days when the first step was to mechanically align the the two outer tubes to the fixed center tube and then adjust the pots on the individual cards to get pin point alignment. 🤣


Yeah, calibrating/adjusting is fun at first and then after dozens of hours of going through patterns, trying adjustments, repeat, repeat for gray scale and color, etc., I am much more willing to accept 3 delta E margin and call it a day.


----------



## hms17B

At any rate, on the matter of panel alignment, it seems quite good as is. A lot better than my old Sanyo ever was. And better than the tube RPTVs I used to have. As i use it if I see something I think could stand adjusting, I'll give it bit, then see if I like it better. But I don't think I'll ever try anything major.


----------



## biglen

What do you guys have the Lens Iris set to? I just noticed mine is set to 0. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rafiks

does the settings/calibration get saved after a firmware update?


----------



## Alaric

plain fan said:


> I wish we could physically align the panels ourselves then tweak electronically. Of course I come from the CRT days when the first step was to mechanically align the the two outer tubes to the fixed center tube and then adjust the pots on the individual cards to get pin point alignment. 🤣


You don't know real calibration until you are wearing a rubber glove, tweaking a pot, upside down with an insulated screw driver on a live CRT projector with ~25,000v firing off a short distance away. REALLY focuses the attention!


----------



## plain fan

Alaric said:


> You don't know real calibration until you are wearing a rubber glove, tweaking a pot, upside down with an insulated screw driver on a live CRT projector with ~25,000v firing off a short distance away. REALLY focuses the attention!


Those were the days!


----------



## Homerlovesbeer

Hi guys,

9400TW here and for a lot of my HDR10 content I'm finding I'm about 3-4 on the HDR slider when playing from my Panasonic UB820, lamp medium on Cinema mode.

What do most people use? I find anything much more is a bit dim, disk dependant of course, but I find the standard 8 setting lacks punch and brightness.


----------



## millerquad4

Homerlovesbeer said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> 9400TW here and for a lot of my HDR10 content I'm finding I'm about 3-4 on the HDR slider when playing from my Panasonic UB820, lamp medium on Cinema mode.
> 
> What do most people use? I find anything much more is a bit dim, disk dependant of course, but I find the standard 8 setting lacks punch and brightness.


I’m 95% on 5 with an occasional drop to 4 (OPPO 203 and Digital Cinema.) That said my 6050 is professionally calibrated and I have a Stewart ST130 G4 screen which is 1.3 gain and provides another level of pop to the image. I believe most are between 3-6 on the HDR slider. I agree with you 8 does not cut it unless you have a higher gain screen. BTW, my theater is light controlled.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Homerlovesbeer said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> 9400TW here and for a lot of my HDR10 content I'm finding I'm about 3-4 on the HDR slider when playing from my Panasonic UB820, lamp medium on Cinema mode.
> 
> What do most people use? I find anything much more is a bit dim, disk dependant of course, but I find the standard 8 setting lacks punch and brightness.


I gone through, I think, 4 HDR calibration runs with HCFR and they all end up with me using different settings on the HDR slider. My last run, in which I end up using a rather S-shaped custom gamma, resulted in me using between a 5-8 level on the slider. Occasionally I've had to go lower, but that's really rare. Before doing these calibrations I'd have to use between 2-5 but my screen has a pretty low gain (which I'll be replacing soon-ish).


----------



## Orwellflash

Homerlovesbeer said:


> 9400TW here and for a lot of my HDR10 content I'm finding I'm about 3-4 on the HDR slider when playing from my Panasonic UB820, lamp medium on Cinema mode.
> 
> What do most people use? I find anything much more is a bit dim, disk dependant of course, but I find the standard 8 setting lacks punch and brightness.


I use 4, depends on source and media, maybe equipment and room too.


----------



## Alaric

Homerlovesbeer said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> 9400TW here and for a lot of my HDR10 content I'm finding I'm about 3-4 on the HDR slider when playing from my Panasonic UB820, lamp medium on Cinema mode.
> 
> What do most people use? I find anything much more is a bit dim, disk dependant of course, but I find the standard 8 setting lacks punch and brightness.


It's going to HEAVILY depend on your set-up. Screen size, gain, positioning and zoom all effect light output.

2-3 here, but 120" 1.0, PJ 14' from the screen


----------



## villarrr

I just upgraded from Sony VW95 1080p projector to the Epson 6050. I am adding my thoughts for anyone considering upgrading from that projector. I mainly game (70%) or watch Amazon/Netflix content (30%), so the vast majority of my viewing is 16:9 and I put around 1500 hours per year on the projector. I loved the Sony and enjoyed the 110" size (on a Da Lite 2.8 HP Screen) but had developed serious OLED envy watching the better half game on her YV. The Sony lacked the "pop" you get from a modern TV.

I no longer have this envy. The brightness and sharpness of the Epson has just been great, it really gives the a "TV" like pop from its excellent brightness combined with 4K picture. 

That being said, I can see the projector is not end-all from a black level standpoint. If most of my viewing was movies in 2.35:1 with anamorphic lens, I would probably miss the better quality of Sony 715/JVC NX5/NX7. That being said, for a gamer the brightness, low cost bulb and plenty good black levels/sharpness are compelling. 

A big thumbs up to Epson and to the kind folks at AV Science who patiently coached me through process. 

PS - I think I would have regretted downsizing to a 85" TV given what the projector can do.


----------



## PixelPusher15

villarrr said:


> I just upgraded from Sony VW95 1080p projector to the Epson 6050. I am adding my thoughts for anyone considering upgrading from that projector. I mainly game (70%) or watch Amazon/Netflix content (30%), so the vast majority of my viewing is 16:9 and I put around 1500 hours per year on the projector. I loved the Sony and enjoyed the 110" size (on a Da Lite 2.8 HP Screen) but had developed serious OLED envy watching the better half game on her YV. The Sony lacked the "pop" you get from a modern TV.
> 
> I no longer have this envy. The brightness and sharpness of the Epson has just been great, it really gives the a "TV" like pop from its excellent brightness combined with 4K picture.
> 
> That being said, I can see the projector is not end-all from a black level standpoint. If most of my viewing was movies in 2.35:1 with anamorphic lens, I would probably miss the better quality of Sony 715/JVC NX5/NX7. That being said, for a gamer the brightness, low cost bulb and plenty good black levels/sharpness are compelling.
> 
> A big thumbs up to Epson and to the kind folks at AV Science who patiently coached me through process.
> 
> PS - I think I would have regretted downsizing to a 85" TV given what the projector can do.


Did you swap out the screen too?


----------



## villarrr

PixelPusher15 said:


> Did you swap out the screen too?


No, the screen I think is giving it that flat panel “pop”... get excellent brightness even at medium lamp setting! Even with some ambient light


----------



## PixelPusher15

villarrr said:


> No, the screen I think is giving it that flat panel “pop”... get excellent brightness even at medium lamp setting! Even with some ambient light


Geez that’s gotta be bright. I guess you really want that TV bright image! With that screen I’d try medium lamp, iris at -15 and the color mode on Digital Cinema just to see if it could do it for HDR. Dropping the iris will increase contrast but reduce light output. It sure would be fun to see what you could achieve black level/contrast wise


----------



## PixelPusher15

Your “black” levels have to be icky.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Your “black” levels have to be icky


Ooohhhh, I thought you said "inky" ....


----------



## villarrr

PixelPusher15 said:


> Geez that’s gotta be bright. I guess you really want that TV bright image! With that screen I’d try medium lamp, iris at -15 and the color mode on Digital Cinema just to see if it could do it for HDR. Dropping the iris will increase contrast but reduce light output. It sure would be fun to see what you could achieve black level/contrast wise


Thank you for your suggestion. I just installed and have not had time to experiment with settings yet.


----------



## b_scott

Question about the 5050/6050 - do they auto switch to HDR picture settings when it detects an HDR input, like a TV would? I know my 5040ub doesn't and I would really like a projector that does.


----------



## PixelPusher15

b_scott said:


> Question about the 5050/6050 - do they auto switch to HDR picture settings when it detects an HDR input, like a TV would? I know my 5040ub doesn't and I would really like a projector that does.


Nope. It's a big gripe of mine too. It remembers your HDR slider setting but you still need to switch over to whichever color mode/user preset you use for HDR. There are a couple of workarounds that I know of, one is to set a macro on a remote to do it faster/easier but it's still manual. The other is to use something like an HDFury Arcana to detect when the input is HDR and then send a macro over RS232 to the Epson. I haven't done this and it is pure theory at this point since I haven't seen others do it with an Epson but the RS232 output has been used this way with JVC projectors extensively.


----------



## b_scott

PixelPusher15 said:


> Nope. It's a big gripe of mine too. It remembers your HDR slider setting but you still need to switch over to whichever color mode/user preset you use for HDR. There are a couple of workarounds that I know of, one is to set a macro on a remote to do it faster/easier but it's still manual. The other is to use something like an HDFury Arcana to detect when the input is HDR and then send a macro over RS232 to the Epson. I haven't done this and it is pure theory at this point since I haven't seen others do it with an Epson but the RS232 output has been used this way with JVC projectors extensively.


Yeah, I have my Harmony Elite set up with macros for switching to settings. It's just annoying. Next projector I buy needs to be able to do this. I wonder if any do.


----------



## PixelPusher15

b_scott said:


> Yeah, I have my Harmony Elite set up with macros for switching to settings. It's just annoying. Next projector I buy needs to be able to do this. I wonder if any do.


I know BenQs do, and I think a good bunch of the DLPs do as well from Optoma, LG, etc. There's a caveat though, at least with the BenQs, you only get one HDR mode that it switches to. You can change that mode all you want but that is *the mode* it switches to when it detects HDR. At least this is how it worked on the HT3550 I had. I wish that there was a simple 'when HDR use this mode:' setting for the Epson's. It seems like it would be such an easy thing to program but oh wells.


----------



## b_scott

Yeah that’s the same on my LG OLED. Works great. I wish the Epson a did it. I wonder if JVC’s do.


----------



## rafiks

i just bought this cable as a backup. its an amazon fiber optic cable but I am getting "No signal".








Amazon.com: Amazon Basics High-Speed Fiber Optic HDMI Cable (18Gpbs, 4K/60Hz) - 30 Feet : Everything Else


Buy Amazon Basics High-Speed Fiber Optic HDMI Cable (18Gpbs, 4K/60Hz) - 30 Feet: Everything Else - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





has anybody had any experience with this cable?
Source - Appletv 4k 4th gen and Xbox 1S.
this cheaper non optical seams to be working fine for me.









Amazon.com: 4K HDR HDMI Cable 30 Feet, 18Gbps 4K 60Hz HDR10, 1440p 144Hz, HDCP 2.2 and ARC High Speed Ultra HD Bi-Directional Cord 24AWG Compatible with Apple TV Ps4 Xbox One : Electronics


Amazon.com: 4K HDR HDMI Cable 30 Feet, 18Gbps 4K 60Hz HDR10, 1440p 144Hz, HDCP 2.2 and ARC High Speed Ultra HD Bi-Directional Cord 24AWG Compatible with Apple TV Ps4 Xbox One : Electronics



www.amazon.com


----------



## rafiks

rafiks said:


> i just bought this cable as a backup. its an amazon fiber optic cable but I am getting "No signal".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: Amazon Basics High-Speed Fiber Optic HDMI Cable (18Gpbs, 4K/60Hz) - 30 Feet : Everything Else
> 
> 
> Buy Amazon Basics High-Speed Fiber Optic HDMI Cable (18Gpbs, 4K/60Hz) - 30 Feet: Everything Else - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> has anybody had any experience with this cable?
> Source - Appletv 4k 4th gen and Xbox 1S.
> this cheaper non optical seams to be working fine for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: 4K HDR HDMI Cable 30 Feet, 18Gbps 4K 60Hz HDR10, 1440p 144Hz, HDCP 2.2 and ARC High Speed Ultra HD Bi-Directional Cord 24AWG Compatible with Apple TV Ps4 Xbox One : Electronics
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: 4K HDR HDMI Cable 30 Feet, 18Gbps 4K 60Hz HDR10, 1440p 144Hz, HDCP 2.2 and ARC High Speed Ultra HD Bi-Directional Cord 24AWG Compatible with Apple TV Ps4 Xbox One : Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


nevermind . Apparently I have to connect the correct end. I need more coffee.


----------



## Azekecse

rafiks said:


> nevermind . Apparently I have to connect the correct end. I need more coffee.


Indeed, we learn through experiences .

Peace and blessings,

Azeke


----------



## hms17B

I've had this thing only a few weeks, and am quite pleased overall but a little disappointed with the black performance. On scenes with some bright in them the blacks look fine since they're a lot darker than anything else. But on very dark scenes or completely black I was hoping for a bit better. With all the reviews I've read saying it has much better black than anything near its price, I'd have to conclude that the others must have downright bad black performance.


----------



## WynsWrld98

hms17B said:


> I've had this thing only a few weeks, and am quite pleased overall but a little disappointed with the black performance. On scenes with some bright in them the blacks look fine since they're a lot darker than anything else. But on very dark scenes or completely black I was hoping for a bit better. With all the reviews I've read saying it has much better black than anything near its price, I'd have to conclude that the others must have downright bad black performance.


Describe your room, what colors are the walls, ceiling and flooring? You're feeling the blacks are disappointing with night time viewing?


----------



## hms17B

WynsWrld98 said:


> Describe your room, what colors are the walls, ceiling and flooring? You're feeling the blacks are disappointing with night time viewing?


100" white screen, off-white walls/ceiling, beige carpet, night viewing, room-darkening shades. I know there'll be some room reflection, and that's not what's bothering me. It's a completely dark scene or a black field test pattern that seems to be too bright. Then the screen is brighter than the rest of the room by quite a bit. The walls and ceiling are a lot darker than the screen. With that little room reflection I had expected the screen to be darker than it is. Changing brightness/contrast/iris doesn't bring it as dark as I was hoping.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> 100" white screen, off-white walls/ceiling, beige carpet, night viewing, room-darkening shades. I know there'll be some room reflection, and that's not what's bothering me. It's a completely dark scene or a black field test pattern that seems to be too bright. Then the screen is brighter than the rest of the room by quite a bit. The walls and ceiling are a lot darker than the screen. With that little room reflection I had expected the screen to be darker than it is. Changing brightness/contrast/iris doesn't bring it as dark as I was hoping.


100” white screen in that room isn’t the best match. Even with the color filter and in Eco you are going to be getting 25fL! Which that’s great for HDR but for SDR which you’d probably want to use Normal you’ll be getting 45fL+!! Obviously, you want to be using that manual iris a lot for SDR and for HDR you could start by trying it in Digital Cinema with the lamp set to Medium. Black levels will be raised for HDR but that’s kinda the price we pay to get the brightness needed for HDR. You for sure could try it on ECO too but you might find some things a bit dark.

In a room like that and a screen that small I’d look at getting a grey screen for sure. It will help with black levels on dark scenes and it will help a ton with contrast on anything that isn’t basically black.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> 100” white screen in that room isn’t the best match. Even with the color filter and in Eco you are going to be getting 25fL! Which that’s great for HDR but for SDR which you’d probably want to use Normal you’ll be getting 45fL+!! Obviously, you want to be using that manual iris a lot for SDR and for HDR you could start by trying it in Digital Cinema with the lamp set to Medium. Black levels will be raised for HDR but that’s kinda the price we pay to get the brightness needed for HDR. You for sure could try it on ECO too but you might find some things a bit dark.
> 
> In a room like that and a screen that small I’d look at getting a grey screen for sure. It will help with black levels on dark scenes and it will help a ton with contrast on anything that isn’t basically black.


What you say is what I've done except for the screen because the room is too small for anything larger. I have been considering a grey screen, though. I'm kind of afraid to try ECO having read too many things saying that low lamp can lead to flicker.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> What you say is what I've done except for the screen because the room is too small for anything larger. I have been considering a grey screen, though. I'm kind of afraid to try ECO having read too many things saying that low lamp can lead to flicker.


I think a lot of people run this projector in Eco except for HDR. The general recommendation is to run it in high for at least 10 hours and some say up to 100 hours. Lamp flicker before a certain time should be covered under Epson's warranty too. But, that doesn't help you when you're 1000 hours in of course. I can't see you running it in medium for SDR though. Not sure how much light is cut with the iris set at -20 but have you tried it? The advantage to having so much light at your disposal is that using the manual iris actually increases contrast. I do really think that a grey screen is the best bet for you though. And for 100" you can get a pretty cost effective one from Silver Ticket. But...can you go bigger? 100" is a wee small nowadays.

Also, just to show you how much a room effects contrast even on very dark scenes here's a chart from a Projection Dream study (TW9200 = 5040):









Here you can see that even at 2% ADL contrast is almost cut by almost a third. A grey screen will help assist in cutting out some of that reflected light and maintain contrast. It isn't a silver bullet but it for sure will help. I'm just repeating myself now though lol


----------



## realcodeguy

Hey guys, my Sony HW40ES is beginning to act up and I'm considering replacing it with the 5050UB. Has anyone here upgraded from the Sony and would you consider it a substantial upgrade or only marginal?


----------



## SpedInFargo

rafiks said:


> nevermind . Apparently I have to connect the correct end. I need more coffee.


At least you figured that out before running it through a wall or ceiling


----------



## DaGamePimp

realcodeguy said:


> Hey guys, my Sony HW40ES is beginning to act up and I'm considering replacing it with the 5050UB. Has anyone here upgraded from the Sony and would you consider it a substantial upgrade or only marginal?


I owned the 45es shortly before the 5050ub and in my opinion it was a solid upgrade (not a sidestep), and the 45es was an excellent unit (likely the best over-all PJ under $2K new).

There are always so many variables here that it's never a guarantee but in general the consensus would be in favor of the 5050ub (probably by a fairly 'substantial' margin).

The 45es is slightly better than the 40es so... 

* I also have the 295es here and it is a definite upgrade from the 45es yet the 5050ub is superior to the 295es on some aspects (dynamic contrast with iris / full field black with iris, lumen capability, closer to full DCI-P3 with WCG filter engaged, less expensive lamps).

Best of luck,
Jason


----------



## PixelPusher15

realcodeguy said:


> Hey guys, my Sony HW40ES is beginning to act up and I'm considering replacing it with the 5050UB. Has anyone here upgraded from the Sony and would you consider it a substantial upgrade or only marginal?


Do this:









There are a few people that have made the jump. You could do the same with the search term being HW45ES. 

I looked through some of the comments and came away with the feeling that 40/45ES owners have a bit of an underwhelming experience at first but once they dial in the 5050 they are more please with it than the Sony. But, make your own conclusions!

I think @Luminated67 came from a 45ES and I know he is loving his 6050, just take a look at the screenshot candy thread in the $3000+ forum


----------



## WynsWrld98

PixelPusher15 said:


> Do this:
> View attachment 3145482
> 
> 
> There are a few people that have made the jump. You could do the same with the search term being HW45ES.
> 
> I looked through some of the comments and came away with the feeling that 40/45ES owners have a bit of an underwhelming experience at first but once they dial in the 5050 they are more please with it than the Sony. But, make your own conclusions!
> 
> I think @Luminated67 came from a 45ES and I know he is loving his 6050, just take a look at the screenshot candy thread in the $3000+ forum


Aren't the lumens quite a bit more for the Epson over the Sony?


----------



## PixelPusher15

WynsWrld98 said:


> Aren't the lumens quite a bit more for the Epson over the Sony?


Very much so. I was just summarizing my takeaways from reading the previous comments in this thread.


----------



## DaGamePimp

hms17B said:


> 100" white screen, off-white walls/ceiling, beige carpet, night viewing, room-darkening shades. I know there'll be some room reflection, and that's not what's bothering me. It's a completely dark scene or a black field test pattern that seems to be too bright. Then the screen is brighter than the rest of the room by quite a bit. The walls and ceiling are a lot darker than the screen. With that little room reflection I had expected the screen to be darker than it is. Changing brightness/contrast/iris doesn't bring it as dark as I was hoping.


You already know this but it's your room, no projector will reach it's full potential in a white wall/ceiling environment.

While a JVC could do a slight bit better in that room even then you are not likely to be satisfied with the black level/contrast because the room is the limiting factor.

If you don't want to change the room, change the screen (as PixelPusher15 / Andy stated), go grey / ALR screen.

- Jason


----------



## realcodeguy

PixelPusher15 said:


> Do this:
> View attachment 3145482
> 
> 
> There are a few people that have made the jump. You could do the same with the search term being HW45ES.
> 
> I looked through some of the comments and came away with the feeling that 40/45ES owners have a bit of an underwhelming experience at first but once they dial in the 5050 they are more please with it than the Sony. But, make your own conclusions!
> 
> I think @Luminated67 came from a 45ES and I know he is loving his 6050, just take a look at the screenshot candy thread in the $3000+ forum


Thanks for the tip!!

Weird though, my search bar doesn't have that option.


----------



## PixelPusher15

realcodeguy said:


> Thanks for the tip!!
> 
> Weird though, my search bar doesn't have that option.


You have to have a discussion open and you have text entered into the search box. Also, just a double-check that you are on the website and not an app like Tapatalk.


----------



## realcodeguy

PixelPusher15 said:


> You have to have a discussion open and you have text entered into the search box. Also, just a double-check that you are on the website and not an app like Tapatalk.


Dang man, that's it. I needed to enter text. As long as I've been coming here I wish I'd know this earlier. Thanks for educating me.


----------



## realcodeguy

DaGamePimp said:


> I owned the 45es shortly before the 5050ub and in my opinion it was a solid upgrade (not a sidestep), and the 45es was an excellent unit (likely the best over-all PJ under $2K new).
> 
> There are always so many variables here that it's never a guarantee but in general the consensus would be in favor of the 5050ub (probably by a fairly 'substantial' margin).
> 
> The 45es is slightly better than the 40es so...
> 
> * I also have the 295es here and it is a definite upgrade from the 45es yet the 5050ub is superior to the 295es on some aspects (dynamic contrast with iris / full field black with iris, lumen capability, closer to full DCI-P3 with WCG filter engaged, less expensive lamps).
> 
> Best of luck,
> Jason


Thanks Jason, I appreciate your input!


----------



## hms17B

DaGamePimp said:


> You already know this but it's your room, no projector will reach it's full potential in a white wall/ceiling environment.
> 
> While a JVC could do a slight bit better in that room even then you are not likely to be satisfied with the black level/contrast because the room is the limiting factor.
> 
> If you don't want to change the room, change the screen (as PixelPusher15 / Andy stated), go grey / ALR screen.
> 
> - Jason


Right, but from the various reviews and posts on it it seemed like it should be a bit darker darker than it is. It sometimes does go quite a bit darker during fades, so I can see that it is capable of darker than I ever see in actual movie scenes. So the unit can do even darker, but I don't see any adjustments that take it there. If I could get that level of black I'd be satisfied.


----------



## DaGamePimp

hms17B said:


> Right, but from the various reviews and posts on it it seemed like it should be a bit darker darker than it is. It sometimes does go quite a bit darker during fades, so I can see that it is capable of darker than I ever see in actual movie scenes. So the unit can do even darker, but I don't see any adjustments that take it there. If I could get that level of black I'd be satisfied.



Put up full field black and adjust the manual iris to your viewing preference then set the dynamic iris to High.

Just keep in mind that while this might get you to a 'happy place' regarding the black floor you may also end up with a much dimmer image than what you want (or need for that viewing environment).

Best of luck,
Jason


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> Right, but from the various reviews and posts on it it seemed like it should be a bit darker darker than it is. It sometimes does go quite a bit darker during fades, so I can see that it is capable of darker than I ever see in actual movie scenes. So the unit can do even darker, but I don't see any adjustments that take it there. If I could get that level of black I'd be satisfied.


Yeah, the fades to black allow the dynamic iris to close a ton. That's the only time it will get that dark. I'm curious, what's the darkest you have tried? Meaning what power mode, iris settings and color mode have you used together? The darkest would be Digital Cinema/Eco/Iris @ -20/, Dynamic Iris @ High Speed. I don't think this would be usable but I'm curious what you have tried.


----------



## hms17B

DaGamePimp said:


> Put up full field black and adjust the manual iris to your viewing preference then set the dynamic iris to High.
> 
> Just keep in mind that while this might get you to a 'happy place' regarding the black floor you may also end up with a much dimmer image than what you want (or need for that viewing environment).
> 
> Best of luck,
> Jason


I'm still trying things as it's still so new and will try all suggestions if I haven't already. What I was expecting was that the screen would be closer in darkness to the wall behind the screen on a black field, but the screen is a good bit brighter. Not really sure how my black expectations compares to others', though. Maybe what they think is dark looks more gray to me. I find that poor black in a really dark scene annoys me more than almost anything else image-wise.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Yeah, the fades to black allow the dynamic iris to close a ton. That's the only time it will get that dark. I'm curious, what's the darkest you have tried? Meaning what power mode, iris settings and color mode have you used together? The darkest would be Digital Cinema/Eco/Iris @ -20/, Dynamic Iris @ High Speed. I don't think this would be usable but I'm curious what you have tried.


In high lamp as I'm putting it there for the first 100hrs just to be on the safe side. I was figuring on medium after that. As I said I'm a bit leery of eco from what I've read. Using digital cinema for HDR and natural for SDR, dynamic iris high. I've had lamp on medium and eco for a moment but didn't notice a real big difference. Can't change screen size - room is too small, and I can't place the fronts wider as that would not work well for music listening. Has to do double duty until we get that mansion.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> In high lamp as I'm putting it there for the first 100hrs just to be on the safe side. I was figuring on medium after that. As I said I'm a bit leery of eco from what I've read. Using digital cinema for HDR and natural for SDR, dynamic iris high. I've had lamp on medium and eco for a moment but didn't notice a real big difference. Can't change screen size - room is too small, and I can't place the fronts wider as that would not work well for music listening. Has to do double duty until we get that mansion.


What have you set the manual iris to? Range is 0(default) to -20


----------



## DaGamePimp

hms17B said:


> I'm still trying things as it's still so new and will try all suggestions if I haven't already. What I was expecting was that the screen would be closer in darkness to the wall behind the screen on a black field, but the screen is a good bit brighter. Not really sure how my black expectations compares to others', though. Maybe what they think is dark looks more gray to me. I find that poor black in a really dark scene annoys me more than almost anything else image-wise.


I'm wondering if you have a level mismatch, should be limited across the board unless using a PC/game console set to RGB Full.

Try -9 on the manual Iris and -2 on Gamma with the Dynamic Iris on High, what do you think..?

- Jason


----------



## Hawkmarket

I've owned my Epson 5050 for 1,500 flawless hours lasting about 18 months.....until now. As of today it just randomly keeps shutting off after about 10 minutes. It has done this 4x in a row now and there's no flashing lights of any kind.....it just stops. Any ideas?


----------



## fredworld

Hawkmarket said:


> I've owned my Epson 5050 for 1,500 flawless hours lasting about 18 months.....until now. As of today it just randomly keeps shutting off after about 10 minutes. It has done this 4x in a row now and there's no flashing lights of any kind.....it just stops. Any ideas?


Sounds like it could be a power supply failing. Contact Epson while it's still under warranty. Good luck.


----------



## Hawkmarket

fredworld said:


> Sounds like it could be a power supply failing. Contact Epson while it's still under warranty. Good luck.


I just turned the HDMI link off......we will see if that makes any difference. It's at about 15 minutes each time.


----------



## Hawkmarket

Hawkmarket said:


> I just turned the HDMI link off......we will see if that makes any difference. It's at about 15 minutes each time.


At the risk of cursing my fix it appears to have worked. I don't watch cable all that often and am watching the US Open on ATT Uverse when it continued to happen. I turned of the HDMI link and haven't had a problem since in case this happens to anyone else.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Hawkmarket said:


> I've owned my Epson 5050 for 1,500 flawless hours lasting about 18 months.....until now. As of today it just randomly keeps shutting off after about 10 minutes. It has done this 4x in a row now and there's no flashing lights of any kind.....it just stops. Any ideas?


* If the HDMI link does not end up being the solution...

Have you cleaned the filter, are the room temps higher than normal?

It could be over-heating. 

- Jason


----------



## Mike Garrett

Here is some news. Epson not displaying at CEDIA this year.


----------



## fredworld

DaGamePimp said:


> * If the HDMI link does not end up being the solution...
> 
> Have you cleaned the filter, are the room temps higher than normal?
> 
> It could be over-heating.
> 
> - Jason





Hawkmarket said:


> At the risk of cursing my fix it appears to have worked. I don't watch cable all that often and am watching the US Open on ATT Uverse when it continued to happen. I turned of the HDMI link and haven't had a problem since in case this happens to anyone else.


Check your AC power connections, too, both the cable and the internals of the duplex.


----------



## realcodeguy

Mike Garrett said:


> Here is some news. Epson not displaying at CEDIA this year.


Got a link to the news article?


----------



## Mike Garrett

realcodeguy said:


> Got a link to the news article?


Not a news article. Epson Rep told us in an email.


----------



## hms17B

I asked about black level a few days ago and got some replies. I can get it to satisfy only if I turn the manual iris down all the way. Seems to look OK on everything I've watched so far with it down. It's still not what I'd call ultra black, though. On a completely black image, it's dark but not really black. What are others seeing with a full black image, like one of the Spears & Munsil patterns? How does the screen look compared to the black screen frame? Or to the wall behind the screen? I get the impression from the reviews I read that they see darker than what I see.


----------



## Jimmy2Shoes

hms17B said:


> I asked about black level a few days ago and got some replies. I can get it to satisfy only if I turn the manual iris down all the way. Seems to look OK on everything I've watched so far with it down. It's still not what I'd call ultra black, though. On a completely black image, it's dark but not really black. What are others seeing with a full black image, like one of the Spears & Munsil patterns? How does the screen look compared to the black screen frame? Or to the wall behind the screen? I get the impression from the reviews I read that they see darker than what I see.


Hey Buddy,

While I researched as best I could on what projector to get I eventually settled on the 6050. I knew it was not going to compare to my OLED and it was marginally better than the BenQ 3550 ( which I had for a few weeks). 
I have since got a Elitescreen 5D Cinegrey, this has helped my black levels considerably. When I was projecting on the wall (light grey paint) the black levels were okay when all the lights were off. I also have a white ceiling which wasn't helping. The 5D Cinegrey has got me to a point where I am happy with the black levels. When I shift the screen to the left the letterbox is for sure more washed out when on the wall. I think if I went with a 0.8 gain screen I would have gotten a even better black at the expense of brightness. I would have done this had I had more options to buy in Ireland.

So depending on your environment a good screen is going to make all the difference IMO
My settings are not far from stock for SDR with gamma at 2.4 and Iris at -12 running in ECO
My plan was to paint my whole room in a more suitable color but with the 5D Cinegrey I'm in no rush to do so. Would I consider the blacks inky? No The letterbox bars are still not fully black but the content played is very dynamic in contrast with great shadow detail. When there is no letterbox it looks amazing and I would not ask for much more.

Jim


----------



## Hawkmarket

Mike Garrett said:


> Here is some news. Epson not displaying at CEDIA this year.


That would seem to answer the question of whether or not they are updating any of their UB line or even higher. One would think they would want to show that off if they were releasing something new. It seems like the last couple announcements with the 5040 and 5050 projectors have come well before CEDIA but they were always there to show it off.


----------



## pyrobuilder

Hawkmarket said:


> That would seem to answer the question of whether or not they are updating any of their UB line or even higher. One would think they would want to show that off if they were releasing something new. It seems like the last couple announcements with the 5040 and 5050 projectors have come well before CEDIA but they were always there to show it off.


Half of me is ok with this only because it means my 6050ub will stay relevant for a bit longer


----------



## cbatc

Does anyone recommend the extended protection plan from Epson?


----------



## hms17B

Jimmy2Shoes said:


> Hey Buddy,
> 
> While I researched as best I could on what projector to get I eventually settled on the 6050. I knew it was not going to compare to my OLED and it was marginally better than the BenQ 3550 ( which I had for a few weeks).
> I have since got a Elitescreen 5D Cinegrey, this has helped my black levels considerably. When I was projecting on the wall (light grey paint) the black levels were okay when all the lights were off. I also have a white ceiling which wasn't helping. The 5D Cinegrey has got me to a point where I am happy with the black levels. When I shift the screen to the left the letterbox is for sure more washed out when on the wall. I think if I went with a 0.8 gain screen I would have gotten a even better black at the expense of brightness. I would have done this had I had more options to buy in Ireland.
> 
> So depending on your environment a good screen is going to make all the difference IMO
> My settings are not far from stock for SDR with gamma at 2.4 and Iris at -12 running in ECO
> My plan was to paint my whole room in a more suitable color but with the 5D Cinegrey I'm in no rush to do so. Would I consider the blacks inky? No The letterbox bars are still not fully black but the content played is very dynamic in contrast with great shadow detail. When there is no letterbox it looks amazing and I would not ask for much more.
> 
> Jim


Thanks for the info. I was wondering if I'm seeing differently than most people are for this. But your comments would indicate that I am seeing the same. And that my 5050 is working properly and not faulty in any way. When there is some bright in the image, the blacks do look inky dark, both SDR and HDR. Even an image that is mostly dark but with just a bit of bright looks sufficiently dark. It's when there is no bright at all in the image that it looked gray. Black is very relative perception-wise. Gray compared to white looks darker than it really is and when compared to black looks lighter than it really is. With the manual iris down it looks pretty good now. 

I was watching Apocalypse Now and was horrified by the weak black in the really dark scenes with the manual iris open, but closing it down made an imense improvement. I'm using a very old screen and will be replacing that next. Grey sounds like the way to go. I'm not sure the Epson UB designation is quite accurate, though - it's certainly not "ultra" in my book. But I have no regrets and am enjoying it a lot. Also very glad that I didn't get something where the black has always been reviewed as being inferior to Epson (practically everything short of twice the price) - I'd have really hated one of those.


----------



## Thalguy

I could use a little setup assistance.

I have a 5050ub refurbished unit connected to a Denon 4400h connected to a Xbox Series X.

Right now I am using the HDMI cable that was installed by the prior owner roughly three years ago. It doesn't have any obvious info that I can see. I have a new cable coming on Wednesday but I am not sure if that is the problem or not.

Last night when I turned my Xbox on I could hear the startup music but not see any image. I was able to see the Denon logo and then the Denon menus.

I checked cable connections and tried to reset the display settings using the power and eject button but it didn't work. I stopped troubleshooting at that point. 

Tonight I connected the xbox to my OLED. I reset the display to 720p. I took it back to my projector setup and was able to get an image. Unfortunately, I cannot set the display to anything higher than 720p. Even 1080p turns my screen black and the no input error occurs. If I tried to launch a game or even most apps it goes black. I couldn't even launch Battlefield 4. I was able to start streaming a series on Vudu, but when it changed episodes my screen went black with no input. 

This is my first projector so it could very well be user error. I do suspect the HDMI cable but I would think that would still pass 1080p content. 

Any suggestions?


----------



## Pretorian

hms17B said:


> Thanks for the info. I was wondering if I'm seeing differently than most people are for this. But your comments would indicate that I am seeing the same. And that my 5050 is working properly and not faulty in any way. When there is some bright in the image, the blacks do look inky dark, both SDR and HDR. Even an image that is mostly dark but with just a bit of bright looks sufficiently dark. It's when there is no bright at all in the image that it looked gray. Black is very relative perception-wise. Gray compared to white looks darker than it really is and when compared to black looks lighter than it really is. With the manual iris down it looks pretty good now.
> 
> I was watching Apocalypse Now and was horrified by the weak black in the really dark scenes with the manual iris open, but closing it down made an imense improvement. I'm using a very old screen and will be replacing that next. Grey sounds like the way to go. I'm not sure the Epson UB designation is quite accurate, though - it's certainly not "ultra" in my book. But I have no regrets and am enjoying it a lot. Also very glad that I didn't get something where the black has always been reviewed as being inferior to Epson (practically everything short of twice the price) - I'd have really hated one of those.


I have the 6050 and am very pleased with the blacks. I have a dark room with a grey react screen.
Here is just an example where I show my old white screen compared to the new (this was ten years ago) react.
Note that this is from my old room and even older Epson. Just to show you the screen can make a difference.


----------



## hms17B

Pretorian said:


> I have the 6050 and am very pleased with the blacks. I have a dark room with a grey react screen.
> Here is just an example where I show my old white screen compared to the new (this was ten years ago) react.
> Note that this is from my old room and even older Epson. Just to show you the screen can make a difference.
> View attachment 3146848


Thanks, that picture of yours is a big help. I can see from it that there's some difference between the screen black and the border black. Which is what I'm seeing. Most other screen shots I've seen before this didn't show what's outside the screen and so one couldn't tell just how dark things actually were on the screen. Might be nice if reviews when posting screen shots showed just how black the thing can get by having something truly black in the same shot. Words aren't enough for this - people say how dark it is but don't show it. Guess their idea of dark isn't the same as mine.


----------



## Pretorian

hms17B said:


> Thanks, that picture of yours is a big help. I can see from it that there's some difference between the screen black and the border black. Which is what I'm seeing. Most other screen shots I've seen before this didn't show what's outside the screen and so one couldn't tell just how dark things actually were on the screen. Might be nice if reviews when posting screen shots showed just how black the thing can get by having something truly black in the same shot. Words aren't enough for this - people say how dark it is but don't show it. Guess their idea of dark isn't the same as mine.


I agree. It helps seeing "the whole picture" so to speak. But this is just for you to get an idea of how a screen material can change the picture quality. I can update with a few new pics from my Home Cinema where you can see the image AND the environment of the room.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> Thanks, that picture of yours is a big help. I can see from it that there's some difference between the screen black and the border black. Which is what I'm seeing. Most other screen shots I've seen before this didn't show what's outside the screen and so one couldn't tell just how dark things actually were on the screen. Might be nice if reviews when posting screen shots showed just how black the thing can get by having something truly black in the same shot. Words aren't enough for this - people say how dark it is but don't show it. Guess their idea of dark isn't the same as mine.


It sounds like your expectations were too high. But, I wouldn't say I blame you or that it is your fault. Modern TV technology has advanced so much that it really shifts expectations when getting a projector. OLED and FALD LED TVs have the ability to show true black while a projector just can't, save for the $XXX,XXX Christie Eclipse. Even JVC projectors that are known for their deep blacks still show their black bars on a 16x9 screen as a dark grey rather than black. It's a darker grey than on the Epson but it isn't black. 

I too was disappointed by the black levels of modern projectors and went through a HT3550, Epson 3800 and 4010 before arriving at the 5050. Even the 5050 isn't as dark as I wanted. It's just barely what I'd call acceptable for what I really want. One thing I have noticed though is that HDR really makes projector life a struggle. We use something like medium lamp power with the iris at 0 to make sure we get the right brightness without clipping and a picture that isn't too dark but then it raises the black floor. Also, HDR content varies so much and there's more flat out bad HDR content out there IMO than with SDR that we find content with a high black floor or mastered in such a way that it just looks like crap on a projector.


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## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> It sounds like your expectations were too high. But, I wouldn't say I blame you or that it is your fault. Modern TV technology has advanced so much that it really shifts expectations when getting a projector. OLED and FALD LED TVs have the ability to show true black while a projector just can't, save for the $XXX,XXX Christie Eclipse. Even JVC projectors that are known for their deep blacks still show their black bars on a 16x9 screen as a dark grey rather than black. It's a darker grey than on the Epson but it isn't black.
> 
> I too was disappointed by the black levels of modern projectors and went through a HT3550, Epson 3800 and 4010 before arriving at the 5050. Even the 5050 isn't as dark as I wanted. It's just barely what I'd call acceptable for what I really want. One thing I have noticed though is that HDR really makes projector life a struggle. We use something like medium lamp power with the iris at 0 to make sure we get the right brightness without clipping and a picture that isn't too dark but then it raises the black floor. Also, HDR content varies so much and there's more flat out bad HDR content out there IMO than with SDR that we find content with a high black floor or mastered in such a way that it just looks like crap on a projector.


Yes, they were too high, but the various reviews raised them there. We have no TV so nothing to compare to there. I knew I'd never see real black but everyone's descriptions made them all sound a lot darker than they really are. With no chance to see in person any models that I'd actually buy I had to go by others' words. I suppose they were all speaking too relatively - if a model had better blacks than they had before, it was really good when in fact what they had before was terrible. Mediocre relative to terrible can seem quite good.

People talk about color and dynamic range being more important than resolution and darkness often, but I can't fully agree there. When I watch something where the color is a bit lacking or it's a bit dim, it doesn't scream out to me "this is bad!". But seeing fuzzy detail or gray instead of black in a completely dark scene just ruins the experience for me. There is washed out color and dimness in real life, but in the real world blurriness and gray for black do not exist. As long as my eyes are normal or corrected with glasses I always see things clearly (minus something like fog in the way of course). And if I'm in a dark cave I always see black, never ever gray. Thus the extreme importance to me of good blacks. Low resolution and bad black level more than anything else destroy any realness of the image for me.

All that being said, I find that with various adjustments I can get an acceptable level of black and can enjoy this projector. Some will say I'm losing too much brightness with the iris way down but I'd sacrifice some brightness any day for blackness. If I can get it looking OK on those S&M test patterns then I can adjust the slider for an individual title if it needs it. Actually, with iris way down, the brightest things still seem to punch through.


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> I agree. It helps seeing "the whole picture" so to speak. But this is just for you to get an idea of how a screen material can change the picture quality. I can update with a few new pics from my Home Cinema where you can see the image AND the environment of the room.


I agree on the screen material being a huge factor in image quality. I actually have a painted screen that I use with my 5050ub. The screen paint is called Black Flame Interstellar. It's gray in color, as opposed to white. The reason I went with a painted screen, was so I wouldn't have to deal with any masking when going from 16:9 to Scope material. 

My dedicated media room is a bat cave, that is so dark, you can't see your hand in front of your face with the lights off. As far as black bars, I don't see them with my setup. The bars just disappear into the gray painted screen. I'd imagine it's a combination of having a bat cave, and the gray color of the screen. My blacks are super black too, so I've been really happy with my 5050ub. Here's a couple screen shots showing how black the blacks are. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> Yes, they were too high, but the various reviews raised them there. We have no TV so nothing to compare to there. I knew I'd never see real black but everyone's descriptions made them all sound a lot darker than they really are. With no chance to see in person any models that I'd actually buy I had to go by others' words. I suppose they were all speaking too relatively - if a model had better blacks than they had before, it was really good when in fact what they had before was terrible. Mediocre relative to terrible can seem quite good.
> 
> People talk about color and dynamic range being more important than resolution and darkness often, but I can't fully agree there. When I watch something where the color is a bit lacking or it's a bit dim, it doesn't scream out to me "this is bad!". *But seeing fuzzy detail or gray instead of black in a completely dark scene just ruins the experience for me. *There is washed out color and dimness in real life, but in the real world blurriness and gray for black do not exist. As long as my eyes are normal or corrected with glasses I always see things clearly (minus something like fog in the way of course). And if I'm in a dark cave I always see black, never ever gray. Thus the extreme importance to me of good blacks. Low resolution and bad black level more than anything else destroy any realness of the image for me.
> 
> All that being said, I find that with various adjustments I can get an acceptable level of black and can enjoy this projector. Some will say I'm losing too much brightness with the iris way down but I'd sacrifice some brightness any day for blackness. If I can get it looking OK on those S&M test patterns then I can adjust the slider for an individual title if it needs it. Actually, with iris way down, the brightest things still seem to punch through.


I couldn't agree more with what I bolded above. Contrast and black levels are the most important part of picture quality IMO.

Not to beat a dead horse but your environment and set up really set you up for a bad initial experience. I wonder if you had seen the projector calibrated and on a grey screen would you still have the same feelings? I still think you should get a grey screen and give it a try. Since you care so much about black levels then it should easily be worth it for you. You may also want to invest in a colorimeter for calibrating the projector. You have a ton of light to control and with using something to calibrate it you could make sure you are hitting the right levels. Like I said earlier, you are shooting tons of light and if you aren't using Eco then you will need to cut the output by ~66% with the iris for SDR. An X-Rite i1Display device and HCFR will give you accurate readings but maybe even getting a cheap light meter on Amazon could allow you to make sure you have things dialed into what is recommended. You could still adjust from there too. If you do decide to get a colorimeter, I noticed a very large difference in PQ when I calibrated my projector. I highly recommend calibrating a projector, especially one as nice as the 5050. Its not like TVs, each screen, room, throw distance is different. You can't just take someone else's settings.


----------



## hms17B

biglen said:


> I agree on the screen material being a huge factor in image quality. I actually have a painted screen that I use with my 5050ub. The screen paint is called Black Flame Interstellar. It's gray in color, as opposed to white. The reason I went with a painted screen, was so I wouldn't have to deal with any masking when going from 16:9 to Scope material.
> 
> My dedicated media room is a bat cave, that is so dark, you can't see your hand in front of your face with the lights off. As far as black bars, I don't see them with my setup. The bars just disappear into the gray painted screen. I'd imagine it's a combination of having a bat cave, and the gray color of the screen. My blacks are super black too, so I've been really happy with my 5050ub. Here's a couple screen shots showing how black the blacks are.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That looks black here, but how black is it if you were to hold up something truly black next to your image? Like a piece of black velvet next to the screen but outside the projector beam. I'm seeing that the projected image is a lot brighter than the screen frame no matter what.


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## biglen

hms17B said:


> That looks black here, but how black is it if you were to hold up something truly black next to your image? Like a piece of black velvet next to the screen but outside the projector beam. I'm seeing that the projected image is a lot brighter than the screen frame no matter what.


The blacks look so good to me and others, including the guy who calibrated my 5050, so I've never questioned whether they were good or not. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> I couldn't agree more with what I bolded above. Contrast and black levels are the most important part of picture quality IMO.
> 
> Not to beat a dead horse but your environment and set up really set you up for a bad initial experience. I wonder if you had seen the projector calibrated and on a grey screen would you still have the same feelings? I still think you should get a grey screen and give it a try. Since you care so much about black levels then it should easily be worth it for you. You may also want to invest in a colorimeter for calibrating the projector. You have a ton of light to control and with using something to calibrate it you could make sure you are hitting the right levels. Like I said earlier, you are shooting tons of light and if you aren't using Eco then you will need to cut the output by ~66% with the iris for SDR. An X-Rite i1Display device and HCFR will give you accurate readings but maybe even getting a cheap light meter on Amazon could allow you to make sure you have things dialed into what is recommended. You could still adjust from there too. If you do decide to get a colorimeter, I noticed a very large difference in PQ when I calibrated my projector. I highly recommend calibrating a projector, especially one as nice as the 5050. Its not like TVs, each screen, room, throw distance is different. You can't just take someone else's settings.


I do intend to get a new screen but wanted to get the projector in first since I have no room to adjust its placement at all, not even an inch or two. Since the setup is also used for music listening the front speakers can't be separated any more than they already are. So I'm seeing that a 100" screen is about the largest possible. What has been concerning me is that what others are describing for their black level seems to be a lot darker than what I'm seeing. When I put up a completely black image I can see that there is very little light reflecting off the walls, but the screen looks much brighter. That can't be the room but has to be the black level of the projector.


----------



## biglen

hms17B said:


> That can't be the room but has to be the black level of the projector.


Or maybe not the right screen for the projector?



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> I do intend to get a new screen but wanted to get the projector in first since I have no room to adjust its placement at all, not even an inch or two. Since the setup is also used for music listening the front speakers can't be separated any more than they already are. So I'm seeing that a 100" screen is about the largest possible. What has been concerning me is that what others are describing for their black level seems to be a lot darker than what I'm seeing. When I put up a completely black image I can see that there is very little light reflecting off the walls, but the screen looks much brighter. That can't be the room but has to be the black level of the projector.


You would be surprised how much the room makes an impact. If you can see your walls then they are reflecting light. I had flat dark gray painted walls and still saw a noticeable PQ jump going from paint to black velvet. Recall the chart I posted earlier, the room significantly impacts contrast starting at 2.5% ADL, that's a pretty dark image. You also are using medium to high lamp on a tiny white screen, that alone will make black levels very high. I wouldn't blame the projector until you actually have things set up to take advantage of a projector.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> You would be surprised how much the room makes an impact. If you can see your walls then they are reflecting light. I had flat dark gray painted walls and still saw a noticeable PQ jump going from paint to black velvet. Recall the chart I posted earlier, the room significantly impacts contrast starting at 2.5% ADL, that's a pretty dark image. You also are using medium to high lamp on a tiny white screen, that alone will make black levels very high. I wouldn't blame the projector until you actually have things set up to take advantage of a projector.


Yeah, it's like buying a Lamborghini, putting Regular gas in it instead of Premium, and complaining to the dealership that it runs like crap. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## DaGamePimp

hms17B said:


> That looks black here, but how black is it if you were to hold up something truly black next to your image? Like a piece of black velvet next to the screen but outside the projector beam. I'm seeing that the projected image is a lot brighter than the screen frame no matter what.


I was not going to say anything more than what I have already stated but you seem to imply that the forum is somehow at fault for misleading you , so...

As stated previously, the room is partially to blame.

Many 5050ub owners have proper rooms and when those that do share their opinion it is generally coming from seeing the projector reach its potential (or as close to it as possible).

You simply will not see the full potential in a less than ideal room, even at night with all the lights out you are still bouncing light around the room and washing out the screen.

This is not to imply that the 5050ub throws no light at full field black (like an OLED or properly calibrated CRT), you can do shadow puppets with the best digital projectors on the market.

I have owned/calibrated dozens of projectors over the last ~22 years (including CRT projectors) and a properly set-up 5050ub in a proper projection environment has better black level than all of the digital units besides some JVC's (those JVC's were also lower lumen projectors than the 5050ub).

It is reasonable that anyone with limited/no projection experience could have unrealistic expectations after a little reading and looking at screen shots, especially if they did not do enough research and take their planned room into consideration.

Many of us keep sharing how to achieve 'more' yet you keep sharing your dissatisfaction and casting the blame upon 5050ub owners that are sharing their personal experience/opinion (generally with great satisfaction). In your situation I would consider a new screen (sounds like you are), a more projection suitable environment, get a JVC (only in a proper room) or return the 5050ub for a 77" OLED (which I have considered many times but I always come back to the reality of 77" lacking the immersion of 133").

Best of luck, we are all just trying to help. 

- Jason


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## hms17B

Answering all who are replying about black level. From all that I've read and seen on this I expected better starting black level. And I wanted to confirm that my unit is performing as others are. It's not the full potential that concerned me, it's the starting point. Black at the beginning seems awfully light considering the ultra black naming. A black Spears & Munsil pattern with no other light in the room is far from black or even dark gray to my eyes. Is that what others see? I know it can be made darker, but it seems to be starting way too high.


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## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> I was not going to say anything more than what I have already stated but you seem to imply that the forum is somehow at fault for misleading you , so...
> 
> As stated previously, the room is partially to blame.
> 
> Many 5050ub owners have proper rooms and so when those that do share their opinion it is generally coming from seeing the projector reach its potential (or as close to it as possible).
> 
> You simply will not see the full potential in a less than ideal room, even at night with all the lights out you are still bouncing light around the room and washing out the screen.
> 
> This is not to imply that the 5050ub throws no light at full field black (like an OLED or properly calibrated CRT), you can do shadow puppets with the best digital projectors on the market.
> 
> I have owned/calibrated dozens of projectors over the last ~22 years (including CRT projectors) and a properly set-up 5050ub in a proper projection environment has better black level than all of the digital units besides some JVC's (those JVC's were also lower lumen projectors than the 5050ub).
> 
> It is reasonable that anyone with limited/no projection experience could have unrealistic expectations after a little reading and looking at screen shots, especially if they did not do enough research and take their planned room into consideration.
> 
> Many of us keep sharing how to achieve 'more' yet you keep sharing your dissatisfaction and casting the blame upon 5050ub owners that are sharing their personal experience/opinion (generally with great satisfaction). In your situation I would consider a new screen (sounds like you are), a more projection suitable environment, get a JVC (only in a proper room) or return the 5050ub for a 77" OLED (which I have considered many times but I always come back to the reality of 77" lacking the immersion of 133").
> 
> Best of luck, we are all just trying to help.
> 
> - Jason


There's so much more than just buying a projector, and throwing the image on a screen. For people who think that's all that's involved, they should just buy an OLED or LED TV. 

I did a TON of research before I bought the 5050, and not just reviews of it. I also looked into the optimal room for using a projector, and if I wasn't able to meet those requirements, I would have passed on a projector. I think some people "force" a projector into a room that really isn't a good room for one, and expect a miracle. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

hms17B said:


> Answering all who are replying about black level. From all that I've read and seen on this I expected better starting black level. And I wanted to confirm that my unit is performing as others are. It's not the full potential that concerned me, it's the starting point. Black at the beginning seems awfully light considering the ultra black naming. A black Spears & Munsil pattern with no other light in the room is far from black or even dark gray to my eyes. Is that what others see? I know it can be made darker, but it seems to be starting way too high.


Have you looked through this thread?????









The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image


A lot of threads have become a home theater improvment color scene around "black"ing out the screen area. Flat black paint, black felt, black velvet, black carpet... You name it! I figured lets put it in this thread and share our thoughts / noticed improvments / methods / pictures of before and...




www.avsforum.com







Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## hms17B

biglen said:


> There's so much more than just buying a projector, and throwing the image on a screen. For people who think that's all that's involved, they should just buy an OLED or LED TV.
> 
> I did a TON of research before I bought the 5050, and not just reviews of it. I also looked into the optimal room for using a projector, and if I wasn't able to meet those requirements, I would have passed on a projector. I think some people "force" a projector into a room that really isn't a good room for one, and expect a miracle.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes, I have done a lot of research and have had other projectors in the same room before this one. So I know the limitations and am willing to live with those that I can't remedy, for the sake of having a larger image. Everything I read implied that the 5050 was darker than it actually is, hence my disappointment. I can adjust it to make it satisfactory so all should be well in the end. I know I won't achieve its full potential but I think it will satisfy more than anything else that I can afford.


----------



## hms17B

biglen said:


> Have you looked through this thread?????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image
> 
> 
> A lot of threads have become a home theater improvment color scene around "black"ing out the screen area. Flat black paint, black felt, black velvet, black carpet... You name it! I figured lets put it in this thread and share our thoughts / noticed improvments / methods / pictures of before and...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I've seen that. May try some things. My questions were about the projector's base performance with black, which I'm finding to be less than I inferred from the various reviews and posts. But being adjustable, I can get it to where it satifies even if a lot less than perfect.


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Have you looked through this thread?????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image
> 
> 
> A lot of threads have become a home theater improvment color scene around "black"ing out the screen area. Flat black paint, black felt, black velvet, black carpet... You name it! I figured lets put it in this thread and share our thoughts / noticed improvments / methods / pictures of before and...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


With all due respect, biglen, your image *examples* look GREAT, but are they demonstrating black level or contrast? I think it's contrast. Consequently, hms17b still is not getting the point. I could be wrong but for me good black levels should display discernible shadow details while still supporting the rest of the image. The black sky above the lunar horizon and off the Earth's limb show excellent contrast. If one could remove the brightest parts of the image would the black sky still look black? I think that's his question, albeit not necessarily a valid one. Life is full of compromises. Projection systems are another set of compromises in a long series of them.


----------



## biglen

hms17B said:


> Yes, I have done a lot of research and have had other projectors in the same room before this one. So I know the limitations and am willing to live with those that I can't remedy, for the sake of having a larger image. Everything I read implied that the 5050 was darker than it actually is, hence my disappointment. I can adjust it to make it satisfactory so all should be well in the end. I know I won't achieve its full potential but I think it will satisfy more than anything else that I can afford.


So you're admitting your room has limitations, but still complaining about the 5050? Everything great you've read from members about the 5050, is probably because they have a room with no limitations. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

hms17B said:


> I've seen that. May try some things. My questions were about the projector's base performance with black, which I'm finding to be less than I inferred from the various reviews and posts. But being adjustable, I can get it to where it satifies even if a lot less than perfect.


You'll get the best blacks in a fully treated, fully light controlled room. Any bit of ambient light, will take away your deep blacks. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Jimmy2Shoes

hms17B said:


> Yes, I have done a lot of research and have had other projectors in the same room before this one. So I know the limitations and am willing to live with those that I can't remedy, for the sake of having a larger image. Everything I read implied that the 5050 was darker than it actually is, hence my disappointment. I can adjust it to make it satisfactory so all should be well in the end. I know I won't achieve its full potential but I think it will satisfy more than anything else that I can afford.


Here is some images in my not so optimal room with a ALR screen. The screenshots is in comparison to my light grey wall with lights off. As you can see I also have a gloss white door to the right and a gloss white ceiling. In time to come I will be painting these a different color, but the ALR is doing a great job IMO in getting the deepest black. I'm pretty new to projection so I'm learning on the fly but I'm over the moon with the PQ (including black levels) I am getting. And with more room treatment it is only going to get better. I didn't spend 2K on a projector not to spend few extra hundred to get the best I can from it. 
So I think when talk about the 5050 base performance, perhaps your room and screen base performance is more sub par than the projector


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> I've seen that. May try some things. *My questions were about the projector's base performance with black*, which I'm finding to be less than I inferred from the various reviews and posts. But being adjustable, I can get it to where it satifies even if a lot less than perfect.


To be frank, you haven't seen your projector's base performance with black. You took a projector and slapped it up in an environment that wasn't at all designed for such a projector. 

People on these forums and a lot of reviewers spend a lot of time and money to optimize their rooms for projectors. They literally have the opposite of your room. So, when they exclaim that this projector has great black levels they are doing so with the context of having a really well optimized room. I'll go over some charts again, maybe I didn't explain it well enough.

Here's the Epson 5040 in 3 different types of rooms. Remember, people around here typically have the Optimized Room or Ideal Room, you have the Living room:








To give you an idea of what these ADL percentages look like in test pattern form, here's this:









That 2% ADL pattern isn't too far off from a star field with maybe a smallish ship in it; mostly black. Well, at that ADL level you are seeing *60% worse contrast* than those with ideal or optimized rooms. Also, at 1% ADL, which is for sure star field levels, you are seeing a *50% reduction* That contrast reduction for sure isn't coming from our rooms making the image less bright. It's from the living room casting light back on the screen and raising the black level. No wonder your expectations weren't met when you were reading about people's experiences in rooms that would outperform your room by 50+%! But, not only that, you were using the projector in modes that are not going to result in the 5050's best black level performance. I'm not sure what you dialed the iris down to, and what other settings you have set. Maybe you have it now outputting the correct fL for your screen size. But then again, maybe not. 

Unfortunately, your room is just not going to be able to take full advantage of the Epson 5050. Even a grey screen won't fix everything, but it will massively help. If you want some ideas on how you could treat the room to help reduce reflections then there are many people here that can help with that too.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> To be frank, you haven't seen your projector's base performance with black. You took a projector and slapped it up in an environment that wasn't at all designed for such a projector.
> 
> People on these forums and a lot of reviewers spend a lot of time and money to optimize their rooms for projectors. They literally have the opposite of your room. So, when they exclaim that this projector has great black levels they are doing so with the context of having a really well optimized room. I'll go over some charts again, maybe I didn't explain it well enough.
> 
> Here's the Epson 5040 in 3 different types of rooms. Remember, people around here typically have the Optimized Room or Ideal Room, you have the Living room:
> View attachment 3147080
> 
> To give you an idea of what these ADL percentages look like in test pattern form, here's this:
> View attachment 3147081
> 
> 
> That 2% ADL pattern isn't too far off from a star field with maybe a smallish ship in it; mostly black. Well, at that ADL level you are seeing *60% worse contrast* than those with ideal or optimized rooms. Also, at 1% ADL, which is for sure star field levels, you are seeing a *50% reduction* That contrast reduction for sure isn't coming from our rooms making the image less bright. It's from the living room casting light back on the screen and raising the black level. No wonder your expectations weren't met when you were reading about people's experiences in rooms that would outperform your room by 50+%! But, not only that, you were using the projector in modes that are not going to result in the 5050's best black level performance. I'm not sure what you dialed the iris down to, and what other settings you have set. Maybe you have it now outputting the correct fL for your screen size. But then again, maybe not.
> 
> Unfortunately, your room is just not going to be able to take full advantage of the Epson 5050. Even a grey screen won't fix everything, but it will massively help. If you want some ideas on how you could treat the room to help reduce reflections then there are many people here that can help with that too.


Like I said earlier, people try to "force" a projector into a room that it doesn't belong in, then complain about the image quality. It's like trying to jam a square peg into a round hole. Use the money on an OLED instead. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

biglen said:


> You'll get the best blacks in a fully treated, fully light controlled room. Any bit of ambient light, will take away your deep blacks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


There is no ambient light whatsoever in the room. It's all from the projector. I think everyone is missing my point. A projector that has excellent black will look black on a full black image even in a white room since that's the only light there is. The worse the projector is at black, the lighter the screen gets. And the scattered light washes it out even more. The 5050 seems to me to start out with black level higher than I expected based on reviews and forum experiences.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> To be frank, you haven't seen your projector's base performance with black. You took a projector and slapped it up in an environment that wasn't at all designed for such a projector.
> 
> People on these forums and a lot of reviewers spend a lot of time and money to optimize their rooms for projectors. They literally have the opposite of your room. So, when they exclaim that this projector has great black levels they are doing so with the context of having a really well optimized room. I'll go over some charts again, maybe I didn't explain it well enough.
> 
> Here's the Epson 5040 in 3 different types of rooms. Remember, people around here typically have the Optimized Room or Ideal Room, you have the Living room:
> View attachment 3147080
> 
> To give you an idea of what these ADL percentages look like in test pattern form, here's this:
> View attachment 3147081
> 
> 
> That 2% ADL pattern isn't too far off from a star field with maybe a smallish ship in it; mostly black. Well, at that ADL level you are seeing *60% worse contrast* than those with ideal or optimized rooms. Also, at 1% ADL, which is for sure star field levels, you are seeing a *50% reduction* That contrast reduction for sure isn't coming from our rooms making the image less bright. It's from the living room casting light back on the screen and raising the black level. No wonder your expectations weren't met when you were reading about people's experiences in rooms that would outperform your room by 50+%! But, not only that, you were using the projector in modes that are not going to result in the 5050's best black level performance. I'm not sure what you dialed the iris down to, and what other settings you have set. Maybe you have it now outputting the correct fL for your screen size. But then again, maybe not.
> 
> Unfortunately, your room is just not going to be able to take full advantage of the Epson 5050. Even a grey screen won't fix everything, but it will massively help. If you want some ideas on how you could treat the room to help reduce reflections then there are many people here that can help with that too.


I realize this. I'm talking about 0%. That should look pretty dark if the projector has good black. And on a 0% image it look awfully bright to me.


----------



## hms17B

biglen said:


> Like I said earlier, people try to "force" a projector into a room that it doesn't belong in, then complain about the image quality. It's like trying to jam a square peg into a round hole. Use the money on an OLED instead.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


No one has posted that I've ever seen a shot of the screen showing a black-only image next to something that is truly black. To show how close, or far off the two are from each other. All the shots have bright portions which invalidates them for showing just how dark black can be in the room they're in. I'm not dissatisfied with images that have some bright in them, it's in images that have no bright in them or very little. Someone post a shot of a 0% field including the screen black frame or wall behind the screen. When I display such the screen is much brighter than the walls.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> To be frank, you haven't seen your projector's base performance with black. You took a projector and slapped it up in an environment that wasn't at all designed for such a projector.
> 
> People on these forums and a lot of reviewers spend a lot of time and money to optimize their rooms for projectors. They literally have the opposite of your room. So, when they exclaim that this projector has great black levels they are doing so with the context of having a really well optimized room. I'll go over some charts again, maybe I didn't explain it well enough.
> 
> Here's the Epson 5040 in 3 different types of rooms. Remember, people around here typically have the Optimized Room or Ideal Room, you have the Living room:
> View attachment 3147080
> 
> To give you an idea of what these ADL percentages look like in test pattern form, here's this:
> View attachment 3147081
> 
> 
> That 2% ADL pattern isn't too far off from a star field with maybe a smallish ship in it; mostly black. Well, at that ADL level you are seeing *60% worse contrast* than those with ideal or optimized rooms. Also, at 1% ADL, which is for sure star field levels, you are seeing a *50% reduction* That contrast reduction for sure isn't coming from our rooms making the image less bright. It's from the living room casting light back on the screen and raising the black level. No wonder your expectations weren't met when you were reading about people's experiences in rooms that would outperform your room by 50+%! But, not only that, you were using the projector in modes that are not going to result in the 5050's best black level performance. I'm not sure what you dialed the iris down to, and what other settings you have set. Maybe you have it now outputting the correct fL for your screen size. But then again, maybe not.
> 
> Unfortunately, your room is just not going to be able to take full advantage of the Epson 5050. Even a grey screen won't fix everything, but it will massively help. If you want some ideas on how you could treat the room to help reduce reflections then there are many people here that can help with that too.


Again you're all missing my point. If I show a 0% pattern I'll see the best black attainable in my room. I never said I wanted perfect black. I just said that the starting point for black seemed a lot brighter than any comments I'd seen anywhere on the 5050. When I show 0% I see very little of the room but the screen is quite bright relative to the room. Which means that a lot more light gets out the lens than I would have expected. That isn't due to the room. it's due to the projector.


----------



## Pretorian

Here are some more demos of my room. As you can understand the Iphone does not do the image justice but again you can get an idea of how it looks WITH the evironment.
It is lights ON, OFF and blackout curtains UP and DOWN





















Here you can find more


https://youtube.com/user/wernquist


----------



## DavidK442

DaGamePimp said:


> This is not to imply that the 5050ub throws no light at full field black (like an OLED or properly calibrated CRT), you can do shadow puppets with the best digital projectors on the market.
> - Jason


This simple statement puts things into perspective for me. Thanks.


----------



## fredworld

DavidK442 said:


> This simple statement puts things into perspective for me. Thanks.





DaGamePimp said:


> ...
> This is not to imply that the 5050ub throws no light at full field black (like an OLED or properly calibrated CRT), you can do shadow puppets with the best digital projectors on the market.....
> - Jason


I took a few cell phone shots of a 16:9 0% field from the Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc. The first shot is my screen wall set-up, a 2.35 screen with the side panels open and the only illumination is the phone's flash. The 2nd and 3rd shots are with some image processing of the contrast level done from my laptop so as to emphasize/outline the projected image. The 4th shot is the raw image. Careful study of the images show that _MY_ 5050UB's black level with a 0% field in a light controlled room is brighter than the surrounding black wall _BUT_ note that there is no leakage to the sides of the 16:9 image onto the WHITE screen's non-illuminated sides (an indication of the excellent control of projected light). I would not describe this as "a lot brighter" but it _IS_ brighter than where no light is thrown. In the fleeting moments of movies where there are fades to black for dramatic emphasis this "brighter" black level is inconsequential because the eye is rather inefficient at processing the difference so quickly. In practice, the effect is an almost black environment that meets the purpose of the scene. Of additional importance is the CONTRAST of projected images as biglen's earlier posted images demonstrate and in such instances CONTRAST is more important to becoming immersed in a film. In these combined respects, light control, room colors and reflective surfaces play a major role in the perception of black level. I hope this helps to shed light (sic) on hms17b's gripe about the black level of his 5050UB.
(FWIW, I use Digital Cinema, 0 Iris setting and sometimes High Auto Iris for all SDR and HDR material.)


----------



## DaGamePimp

I know many here know all of this so I'll make it quick and then run for the hills...

A proper projection environment is not simply a room with no light, light control is not just blocking windows and turning lights off.

Even with the projected light aimed at nothing but the screen, the screen itself then reflects the light back out into the room (and it will bounce, unless it doesn't have anything to bounce off of).

This is why a less than ideal room requires special consideration regarding the screen that will be used. Or one could use a boring unity gain (1.0) screen that does not color shift and build a more suitable environment around it knowing that there will be no help from the screen. 

Using a positive gain screen means it will send even more light back into the room and some of the most common seem to be in the 1.3 range (obviously these will 'lift' projected light, including your black floor).

Some screens are designed to 'aim / bounce' light in various ways in order to combat less than ideal rooms (ALR) and they generally require refined placement in order to see their maximum benefit.

Many of the less expensive grey screens are good for lowering black level and can even increase perceived contrast as a result but they also bring whites and bright colors down (some add a shimmering / dirty look to just about any bright image but these are usually the ones that attempt to offer higher gain grey on the cheap).

Some rooms simply are not suitable for front projection and if they cannot be altered a large direct view display is the more practical solution.


Keep expectations in check, especially if known compromises were made along the way (the room) and just enjoy it.

- Jason


----------



## fredworld

DaGamePimp said:


> .... Or one could _*use a boring unity gain (1.0) screen*_ that does not color shift and build a more suitable environment around it knowing that there will be no help from the screen.
> ...
> - Jason


Is that why I fell asleep 15 minutes into Godzilla vs Kong?


----------



## Hali08

Hey guys! I got a 5050ub today and mounted it to the ceiling. After turning it on, I realized that it was just displaying a very dim light on the screen. The light was only visible if you turned the room lights off. 
I tried plugging in hdmi and clicking source to see if something happens.... nada..
the remote control was not responding either. 
seems like a doa to me, but it could be that I’m missing a key step. This is my first projector after all. Let me know!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Hali08 said:


> Hey guys! I got a 5050ub today and mounted it to the ceiling. After turning it on, I realized that it was just displaying a very dim light on the screen. The light was only visible if you turned the room lights off.
> I tried plugging in hdmi and clicking source to see if something happens.... nada..
> the remote control was not responding either.
> seems like a doa to me, but it could be that I’m missing a key step. This is my first projector after all. Let me know!


Refurb or new?

I'd unplug the HDMI cables, turn the projector on manually and wait a minute (hopefully you are seeing an Epson logo during boot up, open the little door, and press menu. That should bring up the menu no matter what. If you aren't seeing the Epson logo during boot up and can't bring up the menu then I do think it could be DOA. Maybe others have ideas though


----------



## hms17B

Pretorian said:


> Here are some more demos of my room. As you can understand the Iphone does not do the image justice but again you can get an idea of how it looks WITH the evironment.
> It is lights ON, OFF and blackout curtains UP and DOWN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can find more
> 
> 
> https://youtube.com/user/wernquist


Really nice. Looks good.


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> I took a few cell phone shots of a 16:9 0% field from the Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc. The first shot is my screen wall set-up, a 2.35 screen with the side panels open and the only illumination is the phone's flash. The 2nd and 3rd shots are with some image processing of the contrast level done from my laptop so as to emphasize/outline the projected image. The 4th shot is the raw image. Careful study of the images show that _MY_ 5050UB's black level with a 0% field in a light controlled room is brighter than the surrounding black wall _BUT_ note that there is no leakage to the sides of the 16:9 image onto the WHITE screen's non-illuminated sides (an indication of the excellent control of projected light). I would not describe this as "a lot brighter" but it _IS_ brighter than where no light is thrown. In the fleeting moments of movies where there are fades to black for dramatic emphasis this "brighter" black level is inconsequential because the eye is rather inefficient at processing the difference so quickly. In practice, the effect is an almost black environment that meets the purpose of the scene. Of additional importance is the CONTRAST of projected images as biglen's earlier posted images demonstrate and in such instances CONTRAST is more important to becoming immersed in a film. In these combined respects, light control, room colors and reflective surfaces play a major role in the perception of black level. I hope this helps to shed light (sic) on hms17b's gripe about the black level of his 5050UB.
> (FWIW, I use Digital Cinema, 0 Iris setting and sometimes High Auto Iris for all SDR and HDR material.)
> 
> View attachment 3147169
> 
> 
> View attachment 3147170
> 
> 
> View attachment 3147171
> 
> 
> View attachment 3147172


This is what I've been talking about. I don't expect to get the same in my room, I was just stating that from all I'd read and seen in screenshots and videos, not all in treated rooms, I would have expected darker black as a starting point. I wasn't even griping, just saying.


----------



## Hali08

PixelPusher15 said:


> Refurb or new?
> 
> I'd unplug the HDMI cables, turn the projector on manually and wait a minute (hopefully you are seeing an Epson logo during boot up, open the little door, and press menu. That should bring up the menu no matter what. If you aren't seeing the Epson logo during boot up and can't bring up the menu then I do think it could be DOA. Maybe others have ideas though


 It’s new, and no epson logo 
Just Greyish dim screen


----------



## hms17B

DaGamePimp said:


> I know many here know all of this so I'll make it quick and then run for the hills...
> 
> A proper projection environment is not simply a room with no light, light control is not just blocking windows and turning lights off.
> 
> Even with the projected light aimed at nothing but the screen, the screen itself then reflects the light back out into the room (and it will bounce, unless it doesn't have anything to bounce off of).
> 
> This is why a less than ideal room requires special consideration regarding the screen that will be used. Or one could use a boring unity gain (1.0) screen that does not color shift and build a more suitable environment around it knowing that there will be no help from the screen.
> 
> Using a positive gain screen means it will send even more light back into the room and some of the most common seem to be in the 1.3 range (obviously these will 'lift' projected light, including your black floor).
> 
> Some screens are designed to 'aim / bounce' light in various ways in order to combat less than ideal rooms (ALR) and they generally require refined placement in order to see their maximum benefit.
> 
> Many of the less expensive grey screens are good for lowering black level and can even increase perceived contrast as a result but they also bring whites and bright colors down (some add a shimmering / dirty look to just about any bright image but these are usually the ones that attempt to offer higher gain grey on the cheap).
> 
> Some rooms simply are not suitable for front projection and if they cannot be altered a large direct view display is the more practical solution.
> 
> 
> Keep expectations in check, especially if known compromises were made along the way (the room) and just enjoy it.
> 
> - Jason


What you're saying are not my expectations. My expectations, and somewhat disappointment, were only in the basic starting black level. I know I can't reach ideal but the starting point seems to me to be less than one would think from all the discussion going around. It's not as much better than my old Sanyo than one would think it would be based on reviews, etc.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Hali08 said:


> It’s new, and no epson logo
> Just Greyish dim screen


Just to confirm, the logo only appears during boot up, you’re not seeing it during that time? Yeah, that’s concerning.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> What you're saying are not my expectations. My expectations, and somewhat disappointment, were only in the basic starting black level. I know I can't reach ideal but the starting point seems to me to be less than one would think from all the discussion going around. It's not as much better than my old Sanyo than one would think it would be based on reviews, etc.


So what Sanyo did you have? Sanyo has made some really nice projectors.


----------



## Hali08

PixelPusher15 said:


> Just to confirm, the logo only appears during boot up, you’re not seeing it during that time? Yeah, that’s concerning.


 Yeah no logo during boot up. I thought maybe it’s the first time booting up so maybe that’s why I’m not seeing anything. Maybe the lens aren’t properly calibrated? Not too sure. 
I know the remote itself isn’t bringing any response when pressing different buttons other than power/standby


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> So what Sanyo did you have? Sanyo has made some really nice projectors.


 A cheap one. PLV-Z700. Biggest drawback was black level. It just started too bright. Which is what I'm saying about the 5050. The black just seems to start too bright to be "ultra black" and you just can't get the projector to put out less. If the darkest image coming out the lens is too high, even a treated room can't lower that. I don't know why people think I'm complaining or expecting more. I was just expecting the 5050 to start out darker than it is.


----------



## fredworld

hms17B said:


> A cheap one. PLV-Z700. Biggest drawback was black level. It just started too bright. Which is what I'm saying about the 5050. The black just seems to start too bright to be "ultra black" and you just can't get the projector to put out less. If the darkest image coming out the lens is too high, even a treated room can't lower that. I don't know why people think I'm complaining or expecting more. I was just expecting the 5050 to start out darker than it is.


Perhaps you have a defective PJ? Have you contacted Epson about your concerns? If it's still under the first thirty days of warranty, then they might offer a new replacement.


----------



## reechings

I don't have a 5050 (yet) but I know that my Epson 3100 is a light cannon. When I had a smaller space and a 92" screen I ended up using a camera ND filter lens to reduce the light output even on ECO. In that situation the black floor is going to super challenged which is likely happening to you. I am in a bigger space now with a 135" screen and many more hours on the projector and don't need the filter any more. My room is far from perfect but blacks definitely look better than they did before.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> Perhaps you have a defective PJ? Have you contacted Epson about your concerns? If it's still under the first thirty days of warranty, then they might offer a new replacement.


I wondered that. It's past 30 days, though. I think there's just more light coming out than I would have expected on a completely dark image. Just the limits of the technology I think.


----------



## marantz545

Is anyone using the 5050/6050 on a Silver Ticket woven acoustic screen? 

I am wondering if the Epson would have enough output for a 142” CinemaScope AT screen. My use is about 50-50 TV and movies. Mostly concerned with slight ambient light during TV/sports viewing. And if it would still be bright enough for HDR. I would have the ability to blackout light for critical movie watching.


----------



## rekbones

Hali08 said:


> Yeah no logo during boot up. I thought maybe it’s the first time booting up so maybe that’s why I’m not seeing anything. Maybe the lens aren’t properly calibrated? Not too sure.
> I know the remote itself isn’t bringing any response when pressing different buttons other than power/standby


The only thing I can think of is make sure the lens cover door is opening fully. I have heard of them getting stuck in shipping.


----------



## DaGamePimp

hms17B said:


> A cheap one. PLV-Z700. Biggest drawback was black level. It just started too bright. Which is what I'm saying about the 5050. The black just seems to start too bright to be "ultra black" and you just can't get the projector to put out less. If the darkest image coming out the lens is too high, even a treated room can't lower that. I don't know why people think I'm complaining or expecting more. I was just expecting the 5050 to start out darker than it is.


I have had the Sanyo PLV-Z700 in my room and it was one heck of a Projector for its time (10+ years ago) but the black level from that to the 5050ub is night & day (in a proper room).

- Jason


----------



## DaGamePimp

marantz545 said:


> Is anyone using the 5050/6050 on a Silver Ticket woven acoustic screen?
> 
> I am wondering if the Epson would have enough output for a 142” CinemaScope AT screen. My use is about 50-50 TV and movies. Mostly concerned with slight ambient light during TV/sports viewing. And if it would still be bright enough for HDR. I would have the ability to blackout light for critical movie watching.


It would have plenty of lumen output for that size/type of screen (even for non-critical viewing in certain modes) but, as we have been discussing, make sure the room is suitable or you may be disappointed. 

Obviously any ambient light hitting the screen (even via a bounce) is going to wash out the image so keep expectations in check.

HDR on projectors can be decent but don't expect it to compare with HDR1000 direct view displays as even the lowest HDR400 rating is higher than what all but the most expensive digital projectors can accomplish.

- Jason


----------



## Hali08

rekbones said:


> The only thing I can think of is make sure the lens cover door is opening fully. I have heard of them getting stuck in shipping.


The door does fully open


----------



## fredworld

Hali08 said:


> The door does fully open


It could be a failing lamp or faulty optical engine, too. I'd discuss your observations with Epson. If you're within the two year warranty they might offer a new lamp as the easiest troubleshooting option or suggest shipping the PJ to them to evaluate/repair or offer a refurbished unit to replace.


----------



## hms17B

DaGamePimp said:


> I have had the Sanyo PLV-Z700 in my room and it was one heck of a Projector for its time (10+ years ago) but the black level from that to the 5050ub is night & day (in a proper room).
> 
> - Jason


Yes, the 5050 is a lot better. Even in a non-proper room it's a lot better. After 4K being out for as long as it has I had thought they'd be farther along with the technology for the price by now. That's one reason I waited, but finally gave up waiting any longer. I think I'll be quite satisfied in the end with the Epson.


----------



## Hali08

fredworld said:


> It could be a failing lamp or faulty optical engine, too. I'd discuss your observations with Epson. If you're within the two year warranty they might offer a new lamp as the easiest troubleshooting option or suggest shipping the PJ to them to evaluate/repair or offer a refurbished unit to replace.


I did, they recommended that I send it back to the retailer I bought from since it’s brand new.


----------



## hms17B

What about running in ECO mode for the lamp? I've read that some have problems with flickering, but some seem to be doing it. One of the major reviews even indicated maybe potential problems with running a lamp at that little of its capacity. I think that would be a good level for me, but am kind of afraid to try it. I ran my old projector (a Sanyo) in ECO for its full lifetime with no problems at all, but that's different hardware.


----------



## rekbones

hms17B said:


> What about running in ECO mode for the lamp? I've read that some have problems with flickering, but some seem to be doing it. One of the major reviews even indicated maybe potential problems with running a lamp at that little of its capacity. I think that would be a good level for me, but am kind of afraid to try it. I ran my old projector (a Sanyo) in ECO for its full lifetime with no problems at all, but that's different hardware.


I have had mine in ECO since day one (refurbed with 10 hours on it) and at over 1600 hrs in 6 months with no flicker.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> What about running in ECO mode for the lamp? I've read that some have problems with flickering, but some seem to be doing it. One of the major reviews even indicated maybe potential problems with running a lamp at that little of its capacity. I think that would be a good level for me, but am kind of afraid to try it. I ran my old projector (a Sanyo) in ECO for its full lifetime with no problems at all, but that's different hardware.


I switch back and forth between Eco and Medium and have a few hundred hours with no flicker. Do a search in the discussion for "flicker" and you'll see a lot of comments on it. It for sure is a risk with running it in Eco but sometimes it can be remedied by running the lamp in high for an hour.


----------



## Idreama300

marantz545 said:


> Is anyone using the 5050/6050 on a Silver Ticket woven acoustic screen?
> 
> I am wondering if the Epson would have enough output for a 142” CinemaScope AT screen. My use is about 50-50 TV and movies. Mostly concerned with slight ambient light during TV/sports viewing. And if it would still be bright enough for HDR. I would have the ability to blackout light for critical movie watching.


I have the Silver Ticket STR-169135-WVS. I went with the woven acoustical material so that I could get a larger screen with speakers behind rather than a smaller screen with speakers flanking it. It would of course depend on your throw distance and other room factors, but I cant imagine the Epson 5050 having any shortage of light. My theater is in a basement with the windows blocked off and dark walls and ceilings, but the image could be set up to be bright enough to be uncomfortable to my eyes.


----------



## XYnie

Having issues with my Epson 5050UB... can't seem to get it to scale right to my screen. Screen is 110"... Lens throw is 12'6" from screen (room is small so I can't go much further) so I am pretty sure based on calculators I am within a proper throw distance. When I try and make it fit I either have black bars on top and bottom, or bleed off the sides left and right - pics below. I checked to make sure the screen is 16:9 and not 16:10 as some thought may be the case on reddit, manually measured and it is definitely 96x54 (well 53 11/12). No inputs, just the projector lining up with Lens Zoom - Aspect is on "normal" and won't change to anything else. What could I be missing?



http://imgur.com/GxQgLZ9




http://imgur.com/v3XZlcJ


Thanks!


----------



## fredworld

XYnie said:


> Having issues with my Epson 5050UB... can't seem to get it to scale right to my screen. Screen is 110"... Lens throw is 12'6" from screen (room is small so I can't go much further) so I am pretty sure based on calculators I am within a proper throw distance. When I try and make it fit I either have black bars on top and bottom, or bleed off the sides left and right - pics below. I checked to make sure the screen is 16:9 and not 16:10 as some thought may be the case on reddit, manually measured and it is definitely 96x54 (well 53 11/12). No inputs, just the projector lining up with Lens Zoom - Aspect is on "normal" and won't change to anything else. What could I be missing?
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/GxQgLZ9
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/v3XZlcJ
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Are you passing the video through an AVR/AVP? If so, check your HDMI output settings on that. Otherwise, if you can provide more information about your set-up chain, then perhaps we can be of more assistance.


----------



## rekbones

XYnie said:


> Having issues with my Epson 5050UB... can't seem to get it to scale right to my screen. Screen is 110"... Lens throw is 12'6" from screen (room is small so I can't go much further) so I am pretty sure based on calculators I am within a proper throw distance. When I try and make it fit I either have black bars on top and bottom, or bleed off the sides left and right - pics below. I checked to make sure the screen is 16:9 and not 16:10 as some thought may be the case on reddit, manually measured and it is definitely 96x54 (well 53 11/12). No inputs, just the projector lining up with Lens Zoom - Aspect is on "normal" and won't change to anything else. What could I be missing?
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/GxQgLZ9
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/v3XZlcJ
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Go into settings and make sure keystone is at 0 and blanking is at 0. Just to be sure do a reset.


----------



## RVD26

Any suggestions on how to get rid of the black bars on the sides of the screen? I finally got my projector hooked up, but this is driving me crazy. I really want the picture to fill the whole screen. It's a 120" 16:9 screen. Passing it through a Denon AVR-X6500H via HDMI. I do have keystone set up since the screen is slightly tilted. Even when keystone is off stretching the screen causes part of the picture to show off the screen, which I obviously don't want.


----------



## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> Any suggestions on how to get rid of the black bars on the sides of the screen? I finally got my projector hooked up, but this is driving me crazy. I really want the picture to fill the whole screen. It's a 120" 16:9 screen. Passing it through a Denon AVR-X6500H via HDMI. I do have keystone set up since the screen is slightly tilted. Even when keystone is off stretching the screen causes part of the picture to show off the screen, which I obviously don't want.


Same thing as what rekbones said, make sure blanking is at 0. 

Also, you suuuure the DIY screen was measured properly and it's 16:9?


----------



## XYnie

rekbones said:


> Go into settings and make sure keystone is at 0 and blanking is at 0. Just to be sure do a reset.


This was the issue... looks like the installer (just an electrician not a theater pro) used Keystone (set at -25) to correct the vertical offset issue and it shrunk the image. So resetting everything got me to proper size, but now I have a trapezoid shape  I'll have to play around with the calculator to get proper mounting height and either remount it or see if I can do something with Lens Shift.

Thanks guys.


----------



## RVD26

PixelPusher15 said:


> Same thing as what rekbones said, make sure blanking is at 0.
> 
> Also, you suuuure the DIY screen was measured properly and it's 16:9?


The DIY screen was purchased from Seymour as 16:9. Now whether the final install is still the same ratio with some of the screen pulled over the edges and corner, I'm not sure.


----------



## rekbones

XYnie said:


> This was the issue... looks like the installer (just an electrician not a theater pro) used Keystone (set at -25) to correct the vertical offset issue and it shrunk the image. So resetting everything got me to proper size, but now I have a trapezoid shape  I'll have to play around with the calculator to get proper mounting height and either remount it or see if I can do something with Lens Shift.
> 
> Thanks guys.


Unless you are mounted way above the screen (more then 46% of screen height) just level the projector and use lens shift to correct. If your are mounted too high you need a longer drop pole.


----------



## XYnie

rekbones said:


> Unless you are mounted way above the screen (more then 46% of screen height) just level the projector and use lens shift to correct. If your are mounted too high you need a longer drop pole.


I'm about 6" above the top of the screen - so I should be able to try and fix with shift when I get home - thanks so much!

:EDIT:
Thanks for the simple thing to look for.... that was it and we are back to normal!



http://imgur.com/znbLWEN


----------



## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> The DIY screen was purchased from Seymour as 16:9. Now whether the final install is still the same ratio with some of the screen pulled over the edges and corner, I'm not sure.


Grab a tape measure and check the width and height. You can use this calculator and just put in one of the dimensions and make sure it matches the other: Projector Calculator | Projector Screen Calculator | Aspect Ratio Calculator | Screen Size Calculator | Distance Calculator - Projector Screen | Projection Screen 

Do you have vertical bracing on that screen or is it just 4 boards making a border? Also, did you throw a black backing being the fabric? The UF fabric needs a black backing or you can see the wood through the projected image.


----------



## RVD26

PixelPusher15 said:


> Grab a tape measure and check the width and height. You can use this calculator and just put in one of the dimensions and make sure it matches the other: Projector Calculator | Projector Screen Calculator | Aspect Ratio Calculator | Screen Size Calculator | Distance Calculator - Projector Screen | Projection Screen
> 
> Do you have vertical bracing on that screen or is it just 4 boards making a border? Also, did you throw a black backing being the fabric? The UF fabric needs a black backing or you can see the wood through the projected image.


So it looks like my screen size is off. I have a screen height just under 54" and width of 111". According to the calculator, my width should be 96".
Guess I need to bring the installers back to fix it.


----------



## Pretorian

A while ago I decided to move my projector to the other room so that I can have a bigger screen in the future. I got help from a builder to make this really sturdy box. We will close it soon. I will also paint it.


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> So it looks like my screen size is off. I have a screen height just under 54" and width of 111". According to the calculator, my width should be 96".
> Guess I need to bring the installers back to fix it.


I hope you can get it right. While you're at it, you might want to rethink the "slightly tilted" installation you mentioned earlier. Is it really necessary to tilt the screen?


----------



## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> So it looks like my screen size is off. I have a screen height just under 54" and width of 111". According to the calculator, my width should be 96".
> Guess I need to bring the installers back to fix it.


They really built you an odd screen size. A screen with a height of 54" you are maxed now to 110" diagonal. Also, 111" would give you a diagonal of 127" and the current diagonal of your screen is 123". What the heck were they looking at when they came up with those dimensions. Since you paid for 120" of UF fabric, I'd be pretty livid with the carpenter if they just ruined the fabric like that while not building to your spec. 

If you have them come back to fix it you might want to hand them some plans so they don't do it again. The screen you show looks to be sagging on top and bottom and isn't flush on the front. Here's a diagram for a 130" screen from MississipiMan, I hope that they could scale it down to 120". Just a note that at 120" you could get by with two vertical supports instead of 3.








Here's a thread with some images that you can also show them for reference of what it should look like when completed: 128" 2.39: Spandex Screen --Frame instructions - 

Good luck! Bringing people back to fix their shoddy work isn't fun. I'm not sure what you should do in regard to the screen material you have now since it can't really be used for a 120" screen. Trying to get the carpenter to front the bill for new fabric probably won't go well. 😬


----------



## RVD26

fredworld said:


> I hope you can get it right. While you're at it, you might want to rethink the "slightly tilted" installation you mentioned earlier. Is it really necessary to tilt the screen?


It came out that way when they built it, it wasn't anything I wanted.


----------



## RVD26

PixelPusher15 said:


> They really built you an odd screen size. A screen with a height of 54" you are maxed now to 110" diagonal. Also, 111" would give you a diagonal of 127" and the current diagonal of your screen is 123". What the heck were they looking at when they came up with those dimensions. Since you paid for 120" of UF fabric, I'd be pretty livid with the carpenter if they just ruined the fabric like that while not building to your spec.
> 
> If you have them come back to fix it you might want to hand them some plans so they don't do it again. The screen you show looks to be sagging on top and bottom and isn't flush on the front. Here's a diagram for a 130" screen from MississipiMan, I hope that they could scale it down to 120". Just a note that at 120" you could get by with two vertical supports instead of 3.
> View attachment 3147928
> 
> Here's a thread with some images that you can also show them for reference of what it should look like when completed: 128" 2.39: Spandex Screen --Frame instructions -
> 
> Good luck! Bringing people back to fix their shoddy work isn't fun. I'm not sure what you should do in regard to the screen material you have now since it can't really be used for a 120" screen. Trying to get the carpenter to front the bill for new fabric probably won't go well. 😬


Looks like I'll just be maxed at 110". I was afraid something like this might happen. Really frustrating.


----------



## Pretorian

Pretorian said:


> A while ago I decided to move my projector to the other room so that I can have a bigger screen in the future. I got help from a builder to make this really sturdy box. We will close it soon. I will also paint it.
> View attachment 3147925
> View attachment 3147926
> View attachment 3147927


Since I plan to build in the projector on the new shelf with walls on the side and the back, how important is it to cool down the projector? I use the 6050.
I have seen others who make holes for fans in the walls. If I would do that on the back wall, should the fans blow IN or OUT?
As you can see it will be completely open on the front, I will just make the edges a little prettier.


----------



## ejprojection

hey all, recently joined the 5050ub club, and wanted to ask a few questions and make sure my unit is good. First of all maybe me comparing it to computer monitors (which I happen to look at all day) is just not fair but I find the image is not that sharp and maybe that's normal but I don't know this is my first projector that has all this specs and features. Also I noticed that when you look really close at the pixels with or without the 4k enhancement they have like this little "spike of light" pointing up is that normal? I can maybe snap a picture to show that if needed. Right now I'm just using it with a Apple TV 4k streaming movies and shows and I find that for movies I have to select image enhancement -> preset 4 or 5 for it to look how I want, again maybe that's normal for streamed content, I cannot test with a 4k uhd disc atm.


----------



## PixelPusher15

ejprojection said:


> hey all, recently joined the 5050ub club, and wanted to ask a few questions and make sure my unit is good. First of all maybe me comparing it to computer monitors (which I happen to look at all day) is just not fair but I find the image is not that sharp and maybe that's normal but I don't know this is my first projector that has all this specs and features. Also I noticed that when you look really close at the pixels with or without the 4k enhancement they have like this little "spike of light" pointing up is that normal? I can maybe snap a picture to show that if needed. Right now I'm just using it with a Apple TV 4k streaming movies and shows and I find that for movies I have to select image enhancement -> preset 4 or 5 for it to look how I want, again maybe that's normal for streamed content, I cannot test with a 4k uhd disc atm.


What size screen?

I also like Image Enhancement at 4. Do what you like and don't let anyone else tell you that you shouldn't like it. The pixels are diagonal spike like and that's because the pixel shifting mechanism shifts them diagonally 50% up and 50% to the left, or is it 50% down and 50% to the right 🤷‍♂️. That's kinda where you get the soft feeling from, the pixels overlap each other. This is actually nice for an LCD because the overlapped pixels cover the normally large pixel gap on an LCD projector. This makes the screen door a lot harder to see in comparison to a 1080p LCD projector. Anyway, it isn't going to be as sharp as your monitor because I'm guessing that's native 4K and it also isn't as sharp as DLP pixel shifting. It's sharper than 1080p though and the massive contrast gain over anything else in it's price range or lower also contributes to perceived sharpness.

I'll say that I've watched a couple 1080p blu rays on it and thought that they actually looked better than a good amount of 4K streamed content. Especially in dark scenes with tricky shadow detail. This part of the image can have a lot of artifacts on streamed content, rough edges, blotchiness, complete lack of reproduction.


----------



## hms17B

I thought the black level of my new 5050 was kind of high on a black test pattern. I contacted Epson and they said it looks like a fault in the unit. They're going to replace it. With a refurbished one they say. The credit card hold is over $1000 less than the price of a new. I hope what they send is equivalent to a new. I don't want to fix one problem just to inherit another. The posts in here on replacement units are not all encouraging.


----------



## fredworld

hms17B said:


> I thought the black level of my new 5050 was kind of high on a black test pattern. I contacted Epson and they said it looks like a fault in the unit. They're going to replace it. With a refurbished one they say. The credit card hold is over $1000 less than the price of a new. I hope what they send is equivalent to a new. I don't want to fix one problem just to inherit another. The posts in here on replacement units are not all encouraging.


The best part of Epson's offer is that you get to do a side by side comparison with your unit before deciding how to proceed further. When they sent me a refurb to address the dust blob in my unit I decided that my original unit, except for the dust blob, was actually performing better than the refurb, so I decided to live with my dust blob and returned the refurb.


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> The best part of Epson's offer is that you get to do a side by side comparison with your unit before deciding how to proceed further. When they sent me a refurb to address the dust blob in my unit I decided that my original unit, except for the dust blob, was actually performing better than the refurb, so I decided to live with my dust blob and returned the refurb.


Interesting. I intend to compare also. You never know. If the replacement isn't any better then maybe UB isn't quite as ultra as I hoped it would be. Maybe that is the case here, don't know yet. The reviews and forums are good but until you can actually see it yourself you can't really tell for sure. This is what I think may be the problem...








It's the Spears & Munsil brightness test pattern. The whole room looks very dark but the screen seems to be way too light in its black background. And I can't get it much darker with adjustments. This shot looks darker in the screen part than it does for real in the room, but the wall behind is pretty close to what I see, so the shot is better looking that the real thing. There's not enough light reflecting off the room to make the screen that much brighter, otherwise you could see the wall and screen frame. So it has to be the projector. I can hold up a piece of paper next to the screen and it is not lit up like the screen is. We'll see when the replacement arrives.


----------



## fredworld

Well, be sure to report back with your observations. Just a piece of unsolicited advice: when the refurb arrives, don't just concentrate on the black level. Look at the overall performance as there could be other more subtle issues apparent in the refurb. Here's a *link to my refurb story. *
Good luck.


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> Well, be sure to report back with your observations. Just a piece of unsolicited advice: when the refurb arrives, don't just concentrate on the black level. Look at the overall performance as there could be other more subtle issues apparent in the refurb. Here's a *link to my refurb story. *
> Good luck.


Thanks, good advice.


----------



## DaGamePimp

hms17B said:


> Interesting. I intend to compare also. You never know. If the replacement isn't any better then maybe UB isn't quite as ultra as I hoped it would be. Maybe that is the case here, don't know yet. The reviews and forums are good but until you can actually see it yourself you can't really tell for sure. This is what I think may be the problem...
> View attachment 3148106
> 
> It's the Spears & Munsil brightness test pattern. The whole room looks very dark but the screen seems to be way too light in its black background. And I can't get it much darker with adjustments. This shot looks darker in the screen part than it does for real in the room, but the wall behind is pretty close to what I see, so the shot is better looking that the real thing. There's not enough light reflecting off the room to make the screen that much brighter, otherwise you could see the wall and screen frame. So it has to be the projector. I can hold up a piece of paper next to the screen and it is not lit up like the screen is. We'll see when the replacement arrives.



Something looks very wrong there (especially if you are claiming it looks worse in person).

Have you tried different sources?

Checked for a level mismatch (that's what it looks like to me, that or the brightness cranked up)?

Reset all the settings (factory reset)?

Best of luck,
Jason


----------



## hms17B

DaGamePimp said:


> Something looks very wrong there (especially if you are claiming it looks worse in person).
> 
> Have you tried different sources?
> 
> Checked for a level mismatch (that's what it looks like to me, that or the brightness cranked up)?
> 
> Reset all the settings (factory reset)?
> 
> Best of luck,
> Jason


It's hard to tell from photos. What I take isn't quite what I see and what I see on my computer monitor isn't quite the same either. I thought that the embedded picture I provided was fairly close to what I see on the screen, but don't really know what others might see when they view the shot. I'll be able to tell better for myself when the replacement arrives and I hook that up and compare the real thing.


----------



## rafiks

Does the apple tv 4k match dynamic range and frame rate setting work with the 5050ub? 
I found out that this is what is causing the screen to black out before any video to play. Is it even worth it to turn this on if its not doing anything but cause this annoyance?


----------



## PixelPusher15

rafiks said:


> Does the apple tv 4k match dynamic range and frame rate setting work with the 5050ub?
> I found out that this is what is causing the screen to black out before any video to play. Is it even worth it to turn this on if its not doing anything but cause this annoyance?


It matches but the cut to black is the HDMI re-sync that happens when the ATV pushes out a different signal. Other projectors aren't immune to this either. Some projectors are faster or slower than others. Actually, turning match range/frame rate on will cause this to happen more as opposed to setting those to off and having the ATV always pump out 4K/HDR/60hz. I wouldn't advise doing that since it will alter colors and range from the source material.


----------



## rafiks

PixelPusher15 said:


> It matches but the cut to black is the HDMI re-sync that happens when the ATV pushes out a different signal. Other projectors aren't immune to this either. Some projectors are faster or slower than others. Actually, turning match range/frame rate on will cause this to happen more as opposed to setting those to off and having the ATV always pump out 4K/HDR/60hz. I wouldn't advise doing that since it will alter colors and range from the source material.


Thanks for confirming this. I am guessing that this also happens with TVs? I have an LCD TV but I have not tested it yet with my ATV.


----------



## PixelPusher15

rafiks said:


> Thanks for confirming this. I am guessing that this also happens with TVs? I have an LCD TV but I have not tested it yet with my ATV.


I think I've seen that most TVs are faster for whatever reason, but I also haven't tested it.


----------



## Pretorian

Can I connect extra computer fans to the USB on the Epson that starts the fans when the projector starts?


----------



## Pretorian

… or can I connect fans to the 12v trigger on the Epson? I have never used those inputs before.


----------



## AnnapolisSony

I will be ceiling mounting my 6050 in the near future. I'd like to use a shorter power cord so I don't have to coil up the standard cord above the PJ. Can anyone recommend a good source for this particular power cord in shorter 2-3 foot lengths? If you have purchased one in the past, please let me know where! Thanks in advance.


----------



## fredworld

AnnapolisSony said:


> I will be ceiling mounting my 6050 in the near future. I'd like to use a shorter power cord so I don't have to coil up the standard cord above the PJ. Can anyone recommend a good source for this particular power cord in shorter 2-3 foot lengths? If you have purchased one in the past, please let me know where! Thanks in advance.


I hate the ugly black plastic power cords. I bought a nice *Pangea .6 meter AC14 *cord from Audio Advisor.


----------



## AnnapolisSony

fredworld said:


> I hate the ugly black plastic power cords. I bought a nice *Pangea .6 meter AC14 *cord from Audio Advisor.


Excellent. Thank you for the tip. I was getting all caught up in the details worrying if I bought the wrong aftermarket power cord that it could potentially fry the PJ. But if this has worked well for others with their 5050/6050's, I'm all in. Lots of places are out of stock on the AC-14 but I've found a dealer on eBay that has a dozen or so still in stock for $29.99 with free shipping.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Pretorian said:


> … or can I connect fans to the 12v trigger on the Epson? I have never used those inputs before.


It sounds like you are building a hush box which I have only looked into a little. But, from my little research my understanding is that you need to account for intake air and exhaust air and keep them separated (queue The Offspring). Here's a picture from this thread just for conceptualization. I've seen more elegant designs but I think this one works.









You can also get some fans and controllers that kick on when they detect the temperature getting over a certain amount. They then shut off when the temperature drops again. You want the fans running *after* the projector turns off to keep things cool and not let the box hold in heat.


----------



## DarrinH

Mark me up as another who has a dust blob within the internal light path. I can only notice it when then entire image is black. Its out of focus. I am going to keep the unit and ignore it for now. If I get additional ones I may call in about it. I have had the unit since end of 2019 though.


----------



## TroyO22

Pretorian said:


> … or can I connect fans to the 12v trigger on the Epson? I have never used those inputs before.


I tried the USB on the back to run computer fans and unfortunately the port loses power after a few seconds. Ended up using a smart plug that powers on with the projector and is working well.


----------



## marantz545

DarrinH said:


> Mark me up as another who has a dust blob within the internal light path. I can only notice it when then entire image is black. Its out of focus. I am going to keep the unit and ignore it for now. If I get additional ones I may call in about it. I have had the unit since end of 2019 though.


I have never owned a PJ but I am considering the 6050. Is this something you could clear out with a little compressed air or small vacuum attachment? Just curious how something like this is handled?


----------



## rekbones

marantz545 said:


> I have never owned a PJ but I am considering the 6050. Is this something you could clear out with a little compressed air or small vacuum attachment? Just curious how something like this is handled?


No you never want to blow compress air into any assembled projector. This will most likely force more dust into the optics. I don't even think the manufacture cleans these as they just replace the entire light engine. Disassembly is required to clean these out as it can be a DIY project but some have had disastrous results and others successful.


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> … or can I connect fans to the 12v trigger on the Epson? I have never used those inputs before.


My 5050 is in a box, and I use this fan to keep it cool in there. It never gets over 80° in the box with the fan. 









Amazon.com: AC Infinity AIRPLATE T7, Quiet Cooling Fan System 12" with Thermostat Control, for Home Theater AV Cabinets : Electronics


Amazon.com: AC Infinity AIRPLATE T7, Quiet Cooling Fan System 12" with Thermostat Control, for Home Theater AV Cabinets : Electronics



www.amazon.com





Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Anyone using MadVR with their 5050? I'm trying to make sure I'm using the right settings. I'm using MadVR for tone mapping, and I'm not sure if I should set MadVR to this display is calibrated to BT.709, or set it to BT.2020. I'm also not sure if I should put a checkmark in "report BT.2020 to display". 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

biglen said:


> My 5050 is in a box, and I use this fan to keep it cool in there. It never gets over 80° in the box with the fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: AC Infinity AIRPLATE T7, Quiet Cooling Fan System 12" with Thermostat Control, for Home Theater AV Cabinets : Electronics
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: AC Infinity AIRPLATE T7, Quiet Cooling Fan System 12" with Thermostat Control, for Home Theater AV Cabinets : Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That looks perfect. Does it blow cool air TOO the Epson or does it suck the warm air OUT?
Do you have pics on your box?


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> That looks perfect. Does it blow cool air TOO the Epson or does it suck the warm air OUT?
> Do you have pics on your box?


Sucks the warm air out. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> Sucks the warm air out.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Do you have an inlet for "cool" air?


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Do you have an inlet for "cool" air?


The front of the box is open. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## realcodeguy

I upgraded to the Epson 5050ub from a Sony HW40ES a couple weeks ago. It currently has 61hrs on it. It was turning off like the Sony was but I disabled sleep mode and HDMI Link, that seems to have resolved the issue. The bigger thing I'm concerned about is how the image will split with different wacked out color pallets on each side. I'm attaching some pics to demonstrate what I see. This has happened twice since I've owned the projector. Surely this isn't normal? Don't know if I should return it or what to do about this.


----------



## fredworld

realcodeguy said:


> I upgraded to the Epson 5050ub from a Sony HW40ES a couple weeks ago. It currently has 61hrs on it. It was turning off like the Sony was but I disabled sleep mode and HDMI Link, that seems to have resolved the issue. The bigger thing I'm concerned about is how the image will split with different wacked out color pallets on each side. I'm attaching some pics to demonstrate what I see. This has happened twice since I've owned the projector. Surely this isn't normal? Don't know if I should return it or what to do about this.
> 
> View attachment 3151698
> 
> View attachment 3151699


I'd contact Epson. I've never had such an issue. But first I'd try reseating the cables throughout the chain. Confirm your HDMI cables are at least 4K/18gbs certified, too. Does this happen with all sources? Try connecting your source direct ly to the PJ with a short HDMI cable to bypass your AVR if you're going though an AVR.


----------



## realcodeguy

fredworld said:


> I'd contact Epson. I've never had such an issue. But first I'd try reseating the cables throughout the chain. Confirm your HDMI cables are at least 4K/18gbs certified, too. Does this happen with all sources? Try connecting your source direct ly to the PJ with a short HDMI cable to bypass your AVR if you're going though an AVR.


Thanks @fredworld - It's happened with my Chromecast with Google TV and my Oppo 203. I bought a new fiber optic HDMI cable to go from receiver to PJ when I installed it. However, I noticed I had the Oppo and my Denon receiver outputting a 4k signal. I changed both to direct source and will monitor to see if it makes a difference. If not, I'll contact Epson.


----------



## Zedekias

realcodeguy said:


> Thanks @fredworld - It's happened with my Chromecast with Google TV and my Oppo 203. I bought a new fiber optic HDMI cable to go from receiver to PJ when I installed it. However, I noticed I had the Oppo and my Denon receiver outputting a 4k signal. I changed both to direct source and will monitor to see if it makes a difference. If not, I'll contact Epson.


I have had the same issue as you in the past. I probably have 300 or 400 hours on mine and the weird split color pallette has happened about 5 times. I contacted epson and they suggested I plug in my chromecast directly to the projector to see if that eliminated the problem. But it happens so infrequently I didn't even want to try that honestly. If it starts happening more often I'll look deeper into it. Let me know how it turns out for you! 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Zedekias

Also it is fixed 100% of the time if I switch inputs on the receiver and switch it back to original input. Would that indicate it being a connection/cable problem?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

Will high altitude mode active more and better cooling?
I have installed my 6050 in a box outside my theater and need to make sure it is as cool as possible.


----------



## fredworld

Zedekias said:


> I have had the same issue as you in the past. I probably have 300 or 400 hours on mine and the weird split color pallette has happened about 5 times. I contacted epson and they suggested I plug in my chromecast directly to the projector to see if that eliminated the problem. But it happens so infrequently I didn't even want to try that honestly. If it starts happening more often I'll look deeper into it. Let me know how it turns out for you!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk





realcodeguy said:


> Thanks @fredworld - It's happened with my Chromecast with Google TV and my Oppo 203. I bought a new fiber optic HDMI cable to go from receiver to PJ when I installed it. However, I noticed I had the Oppo and my Denon receiver outputting a 4k signal. I changed both to direct source and will monitor to see if it makes a difference. If not, I'll contact Epson.


Take a look at these two posts: *this pos*t. And *this one*. Others have had a similar issue. Note Epson's advice. I couldn't find posts if the posters resolved the issue.


----------



## biglen

Zedekias said:


> I have had the same issue as you in the past. I probably have 300 or 400 hours on mine and the weird split color pallette has happened about 5 times. I contacted epson and they suggested I plug in my chromecast directly to the projector to see if that eliminated the problem. But it happens so infrequently I didn't even want to try that honestly. If it starts happening more often I'll look deeper into it. Let me know how it turns out for you!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I had that problem a couple times with my Shield. 2 things may have contributed to it never happening again. 

1. I updated my 5050 to the latest firmware. 

2. I switched the HDMI cable on the back of the projector, from HDMI 1, to HDMI 2. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Zedekias

biglen said:


> I had that problem a couple times with my Shield. 2 things may have contributed to it never happening again.
> 
> 1. I updated my 5050 to the latest firmware.
> 
> 2. I switched the HDMI cable on the back of the projector, from HDMI 1, to HDMI 2.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I still need to update my firmware from I think 1.03 to 1.04? I just never felt it was necessary. And I have to go find a thumb drive in a box somewhere! 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Zedekias said:


> I still need to update my firmware from I think 1.03 to 1.04? I just never felt it was necessary. And I have to go find a thumb drive in a box somewhere!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I never updated to 1.04. I went from 1.02 to 1.03. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Zedekias said:


> I still need to update my firmware from I think 1.03 to 1.04? I just never felt it was necessary. And I have to go find a thumb drive in a box somewhere!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk





biglen said:


> I never updated to 1.04. I went from 1.02 to 1.03.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I'm on 1.04. updating the FW, AFAIK, only updates HDMI 1. HDMI 2 stays at 1.03. I'm using HDMI 1.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> I'm on 1.04. updating the FW, AFAIK, only updates HDMI 1. HDMI 2 stays at 1.03. I'm using HDMI 1.


Yes, that's why I never bothered to update to 1.04, since I use HDMI 2. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## realcodeguy

Zedekias said:


> I have had the same issue as you in the past. I probably have 300 or 400 hours on mine and the weird split color pallette has happened about 5 times. I contacted epson and they suggested I plug in my chromecast directly to the projector to see if that eliminated the problem. But it happens so infrequently I didn't even want to try that honestly. If it starts happening more often I'll look deeper into it. Let me know how it turns out for you!


I've been in the habit of turning the projector on first to warm it up. I noticed in the manual last night they suggest turning the source on before the projector. I'm going to start doing that and see if it makes a difference.


----------



## fredworld

realcodeguy said:


> I've been in the habit of turning the projector on first to warm it up. I noticed in the manual last night they suggest turning the source on before the projector. I'm going to start doing that and see if it makes a difference.


I think a best practice for powering up and down is to turn-on front-end to back-end and turn-off back-end to front-end.


----------



## RVD26

fredworld said:


> I think a best practice for powering up and down is to turn-on front-end to back-end and turn-off back-end to front-end.


What does that mean exactly? I use a Harmony remote to power on/off all my devices and want to make sure I have it set in the right order.


----------



## RVD26

My Denon X6500H receiver has different picture modes (Standard, Movie, Vivid, etc.). For now, I have it set to off. Is this the right move?


----------



## Jimmy2Shoes

fredworld said:


> I think a best practice for powering up and down is to turn-on front-end to back-end and turn-off back-end to front-end.


----------



## fredworld

Jimmy2Shoes said:


>


Power on:
1) Source; 2) AVR; 3) PJ
Power Down:
1) PJ; 2)AVR; 3) Source
I hope this helps.


----------



## Enchy

So how do y'all clean the lens. I just looked back at my lens while watching a movie and noticed it's got a decent layer of dust on it


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> So how do y'all clean the lens. I just looked back at my lens while watching a movie and noticed it's got a decent layer of dust on it


I saw someone share this on the forum awhile back and it is how I’m going to clean my lens when it needs it. Distilled water, some Q tips and a towel is all that’s needed. If this guy does it with thousand dollar DSLR lenses then I feel like it’s good enough for our projector lenses


----------



## DaGamePimp

Use a camera lens air blower and a lens brush, avoid any liquids since many projector lenses come with a coating. 

Only use liquid cleaner and quality lens specific microfiber if the lens has something more than dust on it. 

Unless the dust is extremely thick it will not be visible on the projected image (in that case invest in an air purifier and place it close to the projector).

- Jason


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> I saw someone share this on the forum awhile back and it is how I’m going to clean my lens when it needs it. Distilled water, some Q tips and a towel is all that’s needed. If this guy does it with thousand dollar DSLR lenses then I feel like it’s good enough for our projector lenses





DaGamePimp said:


> Use a camera lens air blower and a lens brush, avoid any liquids since many projector lenses come with a coating.
> 
> Only use liquid cleaner and quality lens specific microfiber if the lens has something more than dust on it.
> 
> Unless the dust is extremely thick it will not be visible on the projected image (in that case invest in an air purifier and place it close to the projector).
> 
> - Jason


Agreed with Jason. To All, see *this post* for further lens cleaning advice.


----------



## jbn008

Quick question and please forgive me if this has been answered before on this thread. I have a 6050 coming this weekend so I was trying to do as much research as possible before it arrives.

I noticed that many run HDR in a different picture preset for the brighter image without the color filter. When doing this, is there a specific color mode you choose that allows for the wide color gamut (i read it's around 88% coverage without the filter) for HDR? 

For example, on my current JVC I would select rec709 as the color profile for SDR and rec2020 for HDR. Otherwise, if I used rec709 for HDR playback, the colors would be washed out. 

Thanks again


----------



## JonfromCB

Would I benefit from masking? I'm using a Da Lite Cinema Contour fixed with the beveled aluminum frame. The picture is adjusted near perfectly to the edge of the screen on all four sides. However, I do notice some reflections on the frame bevel on some scenes. Thanks in advance.


----------



## hutt132

Anyone using the 5050UB with a home theater PC?
What resolution do you feed it?

Since it only has HDMI 2.0, it cannot do the full 4K/60p/10bit HDR/Chroma 4:4:4.
However, since it's only a pixel shifter, do you feed it 1080p source and it shifts it to '4K' automatically on the projector side?


----------



## Enchy

Mine is primarily a gaming PC, but I've only really put it in 1080p. I don't game in HDR on PC. I've noticed with the pixel shifting it can make text look a bit weird in 4K.


----------



## hutt132

Enchy said:


> Mine is primarily a gaming PC, but I've only really put it in 1080p. I don't game in HDR on PC. I've noticed with the pixel shifting it can make text look a bit weird in 4K.


Are you able to play 4K HDR content while outputting 1080p source fine?


----------



## biglen

hutt132 said:


> Anyone using the 5050UB with a home theater PC?
> What resolution do you feed it?
> 
> Since it only has HDMI 2.0, it cannot do the full 4K/60p/10bit HDR/Chroma 4:4:4.
> However, since it's only a pixel shifter, do you feed it 1080p source and it shifts it to '4K' automatically on the projector side?


I use mine with a HTPC and MadVR. I set my PC to 3840x2160 60Hz RGB Full.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

hutt132 said:


> Are you able to play 4K HDR content while outputting 1080p source fine?


Haven't tried that exact setup. Only HDR content I've ever done on this PC is games. I'll try to get that working tonight and report back if I have time.


----------



## hutt132

biglen said:


> I use mine with a HTPC and MadVR. I set my PC to 3840x2160 60Hz RGB Full.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


At those settings, you are limited to 8 bit depth, which can't do HDR.


----------



## biglen

hutt132 said:


> At those settings, you are limited to 8 bit depth, which can't do HDR.


I'm doing SDR to HDR tone mapping. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

You can do 4K 60hz 4:2:2/4:2:0 10/12-bit (BT.2020) HDR, you cannot do 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 beyond 8-bit (so no 4:4:4 10/12-bit HDR @ 4K 60Hz, that requires HDMI 2.1). 

I use 4K 60Hz 4:2:2 12-bit without issue (works with both games and movies). If I am reading text (using as a monitor) then I switch to 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 (8-bit).

- Jason


----------



## hutt132

DaGamePimp said:


> You can do 4K 60hz 4:2:2/4:2:0 10/12-bit (BT.2020) HDR, you cannot do 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 beyond 8-bit (so no 4:4:4 10/12-bit HDR @ 4K 60Hz, that requires HDMI 2.1).
> 
> I use 4K 60Hz 4:2:2 12-bit without issue (works with both games and movies). If I am reading text (using as a monitor) then I switch to 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 (8-bit).
> 
> - Jason


I can't stand below chroma 4:4:4, because it even messes with the player's text/buttons. If I can feed it 1080p and have it pixel shift to 4k then that'd be perfectly fine. The chip on it is only 1080p anyway, so I don't see how feeding it 4k would make a difference over 1080p.


----------



## Enchy

hutt132 said:


> Are you able to play 4K HDR content while outputting 1080p source fine?


Couldn't get this to work, but I mostly blame Windows 10's piss poor HDR support. Couldn't get HDR to work in 4K either. Reminded why I never enable HDR on this computer...

When I toggle HDR in settings the EDID renegotiates but the projector doesn't recognize the PC as displaying HDR. I have an HDFury device in the signal chain that might be causing problems, but it's also Windows 10 so who knows.










Edit:
When I switch output to 4K60 YCbCr422 12b and enable HDR the projector recognizes it as an HDR source.


----------



## Enchy

Removed the hdfury. Was able to get 1080p and HDR working, but not 12b RGB.


----------



## DaGamePimp

hutt132 said:


> I can't stand below chroma 4:4:4, because it even messes with the player's text/buttons. If I can feed it 1080p and have it pixel shift to 4k then that'd be perfectly fine. The chip on it is only 1080p anyway, *so I don't see how feeding it 4k would make a difference over 1080p.*


*It makes a difference* but I can see someone still being very happy with the over-all image at 1080p doing 1:1 pixel mapping.

Generally speaking, you are better off starting with a higher quality 4K source (and downscaling) versus a 1080p upscale to 4K on the 5050ub.

If you want a projector with top-notch upscaling (1080p to 4K) then the native 4K Sony's are best in class.

Or you can wait for a 40-48g HDMI 2.1 equipped projector but it might be a while...  

- Jason


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> You can do 4K 60hz 4:2:2/4:2:0 10/12-bit (BT.2020) HDR, you cannot do 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 beyond 8-bit (so no 4:4:4 10/12-bit HDR @ 4K 60Hz, that requires HDMI 2.1).
> 
> I use 4K 60Hz 4:2:2 12-bit without issue (works with both games and movies). If I am reading text (using as a monitor) then I switch to 4K 60Hz 4:4:4 (8-bit).
> 
> - Jason


Where do you change the 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 on a PC? I don't see that option. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

biglen said:


> Where do you change the 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 on a PC? I don't see that option.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I have an Nvidia GPU, so I do it on the Nvidia control panel, which is accessible by right clicking on the desktop. If you go to the change resolution section, there's an option to change color settings under the resolution and refreshrate section.


----------



## biglen

Enchy said:


> I have an Nvidia GPU, so I do it on the Nvidia control panel, which is accessible by right clicking on the desktop. If you go to the change resolution section, there's an option to change color settings under the resolution and refreshrate section.


Yes, I have an Nvidia card too, but I don't see where you can choose 4:4:4 or 4:4:2. Or is that changed by choosing 8 bit or 12 bit?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

biglen said:


> Yes, I have an Nvidia card too, but I don't see where you can choose 4:4:4 or 4:4:2. Or is that changed by choosing 8 bit or 12 bit?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk












"Output color format" set to RGB will give you 444


----------



## biglen

Enchy said:


> View attachment 3153033
> 
> 
> "Output color format" set to RGB will give you 444


How are you getting 10bit with your Nvidia card? I only have the choice of 8 or 12. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

biglen said:


> How are you getting 10bit with your Nvidia card? I only have the choice of 8 or 12.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That's a screenshot I found online. I believe I only had the choice between 8 or 12 as well


----------



## biglen

Enchy said:


> That's a screenshot I found online. I believe I only had the choice between 8 or 12 as well


Okay, thanks. So does the movie decide if it's 4:4:4 or 4:4:2 when set to RGB?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

biglen said:


> Okay, thanks. So does the movie decide if it's 4:4:4 or 4:4:2 when set to RGB?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I don't think it'll make much of a difference since most movie and TV shows are 4:2:0


----------



## DaGamePimp

biglen said:


> Where do you change the 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 on a PC? I don't see that option.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk



If using an Nvidia gpu it's in the Control Panel under Display > Change Resolution > Output Color Format.

RGB is always 4:4:4 but YCbCr can be 4:2:0, 4:2:2 or 4:4:4.

- Jason


----------



## hutt132

It seems if you're doing madVR tone mapping, then HDR signal isn't being sent to the projector. This in essence means any projector/display could do HDR then if you're doing the tone mapping based on the displays peak brightness?


----------



## biglen

hutt132 said:


> It seems if you're doing madVR tone mapping, then HDR signal isn't being sent to the projector. This in essence means any projector/display could do HDR then if you're doing the tone mapping based on the displays peak brightness?


MadVR tone mapping feature-

What does it do:
- It makes every projector or TV compatible with HDR even if they were not initially "marketed" for that.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

I think I’ve learned quite a bit the past four or so years as a projector owner but there are times where my ignorance is illuminated and this place never fails to enlighten. As a current Epson 5050 owner I’ve toyed with the idea of the JVC NX7 as a potential upgrade but never pulled the trigger as I was always concerned about having enough lumens on my 148” Stewart G4 1.3. So as a I’m watching Black Widow last night I have it in Digital Cinema mode with over 1,500 hours on the lamp. If I believe most things I read my best day for lumens with the color filter engaged is around 1,100 and I’m at least 25% below that now. Watching THAT particular movie there was PLENTY of brightness on screen and I had the HDR slider pulled back to 5 and I usually have it on 3. The picture was great. Another movie that had the same effect was Lone Survivor which is of course several years old. Other movies, even recent releases, seem too dark for digital cinema and I prefer to pull the filter and switch over to natural. 



Can someone explain why the same mode gives such drastically different results from the perspective of brightness when in theory I’ve got the same amount of lumens being used. It makes it very confusing when brightness is a variable in my decision making of my next projector. Saying I have 1,100 lumens doesn’t mean much when it looks so drastically different depending on the content. What is happening that is altering my perception of the picture quality brightness so much while using the exact same mode?


----------



## biglen

Hawkmarket said:


> I think I’ve learned quite a bit the past four or so years as a projector owner but there are times where my ignorance is illuminated and this place never fails to enlighten. As a current Epson 5050 owner I’ve toyed with the idea of the JVC NX7 as a potential upgrade but never pulled the trigger as I was always concerned about having enough lumens on my 148” Stewart G4 1.3. So as a I’m watching Black Widow last night I have it in Digital Cinema mode with over 1,500 hours on the lamp. If I believe most things I read my best day for lumens with the color filter engaged is around 1,100 and I’m at least 25% below that now. Watching THAT particular movie there was PLENTY of brightness on screen and I had the HDR slider pulled back to 5 and I usually have it on 3. The picture was great. Another movie that had the same effect was Lone Survivor which is of course several years old. Other movies, even recent releases, seem too dark for digital cinema and I prefer to pull the filter and switch over to natural.
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone explain why the same mode gives such drastically different results from the perspective of brightness when in theory I’ve got the same amount of lumens being used. It makes it very confusing when brightness is a variable in my decision making of my next projector. Saying I have 1,100 lumens doesn’t mean much when it looks so drastically different depending on the content. What is happening that is altering my perception of the picture quality brightness so much while using the exact same mode?


I've never liked the look of Digital Cinema. No matter what I do, it looks too dark. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Hawkmarket said:


> I think I’ve learned quite a bit the past four or so years as a projector owner but there are times where my ignorance is illuminated and this place never fails to enlighten. As a current Epson 5050 owner I’ve toyed with the idea of the JVC NX7 as a potential upgrade but never pulled the trigger as I was always concerned about having enough lumens on my 148” Stewart G4 1.3. So as a I’m watching Black Widow last night I have it in Digital Cinema mode with over 1,500 hours on the lamp. If I believe most things I read my best day for lumens with the color filter engaged is around 1,100 and I’m at least 25% below that now. Watching THAT particular movie there was PLENTY of brightness on screen and I had the HDR slider pulled back to 5 and I usually have it on 3. The picture was great. Another movie that had the same effect was Lone Survivor which is of course several years old. Other movies, even recent releases, seem too dark for digital cinema and I prefer to pull the filter and switch over to natural.
> 
> Can someone explain why the same mode gives such drastically different results from the perspective of brightness when in theory I’ve got the same amount of lumens being used. It makes it very confusing when brightness is a variable in my decision making of my next projector. Saying I have 1,100 lumens doesn’t mean much when it looks so drastically different depending on the content. What is happening that is altering my perception of the picture quality brightness so much while using the exact same mode?


I believe it's content dependent. I use Digital Cinema 100% of the time. The worse I have to do is move the HDR slider to 2, usually it's at 4. I subjectively calibrated using several patterns from the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc. I have the same memory settings for my Pan 820 and Sony 800 for SDR (also used for SDR streaming) but separate memories for HDR because the Sony has a wider range with contrast before the whites crush.


----------



## JonfromCB

bump... I have a question about masking. I'm using a Da Lite Cinema Contour fixed with a beveled aluminum frame. The picture is adjusted near perfectly to the edge of the screen on all four sides. However, I do notice some reflections on the frame bevel on some brighter scenes. Would masking provide any benefits? Thanks in advance.


----------



## RVD26

RVD26 said:


> My Denon X6500H receiver has different picture modes (Standard, Movie, Vivid, etc.). For now, I have it set to off. Is this the right move?


Bump. Still curious to know.


----------



## Enchy

RVD26 said:


> Bump. Still curious to know.


Your receiver should not be doing any video processing and just passing the video from source to projector, so yeah leave that off


----------



## garnuts

RVD26 said:


> Bump. Still curious to know.


I've always left all 'picture' modes off on my Denon, Marantz and Onkyo receivers.

I assume the projector or TV should have better video processing than an AVR. Of course, it doesn't cost anything to try the different settings in an AVR.


----------



## fredworld

garnuts said:


> I've always left all 'picture' modes off on my Denon, Marantz and Onkyo receivers.
> 
> I assume the projector or TV should have better video processing than an AVR. Of course, it doesn't cost anything to try the different settings in an AVR.


Very interesting. I always subjectively tested the various picture modes of my AVPs and invariably discovered that NIGHT or OFF were best. With my Marantz AV7704, I found that ISF Night provided the better range for using the Image settings of my projector.


----------



## hutt132

If I were to get a X-Rite i1Display Pro Plus, what calibration software would I need in order to translate the results into settings to change in the projector?


----------



## Enchy

Thinking about paying to have mine professionally calibrated. Do I have to have it done every time I replace the lamp?


----------



## Werewolf79

hutt132 said:


> If I were to get a X-Rite i1Display Pro Plus, what calibration software would I need in order to translate the results into settings to change in the projector?


I use Chromapure, very good software and I also have Spears and Munsil UHD disc too.

I always use digital cinema with UHD discs and i get 100% DCI colour and with my Panasonic UB820 I prefer to switch to SDR not HDR, I needed to bed the projector in for 180 hours because the gamma would just not behave, now it is fine, I am at 1000 hours and it’s still bright enough.

i never need to change the slider, the Panasonic outputs 500 nits to the projector and after calibration I set the Panasonic slider to +6 and hey presto that works for my screen.

I watched Solo - A Star Wars story tonight, I really enjoyed it, I didn’t find it had a murky picture like some reviews stated, it looked good, it’s a shame it had such negative box office, I would have enjoyed a sequel to Solo.

on the other hand they really are making some films ridiculously dark these days, I think they are doing it for OLED displays, Tom Holland’s first Spider-Man film had a few scenes I thought were graded a bit dark when he is viewing the bad guys at the gas station, mind you I redid calibration since then so maybe that scene works now, before I thought it way too dark.


----------



## Medality

Hi there!
I've been enjoying my 5050UB for a bit more than 5 months, watching movies like never before. Awesome experience every night.
Since one week or two, however, I started to notice the fan noise, especially during dialog scenes with no background activity. Is it just me? Does the fan noise increase over time?
Could it be the increased room temperature? My room is 25°C (vs 21°C in winter/spring). I've got a dehumidifer that keeps the humidity to ~45%.
It weird because I never noticed the fan noise (except one time when I watched a 3D movie on High lamp). I always run on Medium lamp.
I don't know if it's of any indication (and if you folks can compare), but I installed a sound meter app on my phone (this one) and I get 34-35 dB when the PJ is off (no sound whatsoever in the room), and 38-39 dB when it's on. Using an online decibel calculator (link), this gives me a difference of 36.8 dB. I also tried the high lamp mode to compare, and I get 44-45 dB on the sound meter.

Did anyone experienced the same?


----------



## PixelPusher15

hutt132 said:


> If I were to get a X-Rite i1Display Pro Plus, what calibration software would I need in order to translate the results into settings to change in the projector?


HCFR is the free software around here that gets a lot of use. Colour Space ZRO is another cheap option and has other more expensive options that gives more features if needed.


----------



## hutt132

Medality said:


> Hi there!
> I've been enjoying my 5050UB for a bit more than 5 months, watching movies like never before. Awesome experience every night.
> Since one week or two, however, I started to notice the fan noise, especially during dialog scenes with no background activity. Is it just me? Does the fan noise increase over time?
> Could it be the increased room temperature? My room is 25°C (vs 21°C in winter/spring). I've got a dehumidifer that keeps the humidity to ~45%.
> It weird because I never noticed the fan noise (except one time when I watched a 3D movie on High lamp). I always run on Medium lamp.
> I don't know if it's of any indication (and if you folks can compare), but I installed a sound meter app on my phone (this one) and I get 34-35 dB when the PJ is off (no sound whatsoever in the room), and 38-39 dB when it's on. Using an online decibel calculator (link), this gives me a difference of 36.8 dB. I also tried the high lamp mode to compare, and I get 44-45 dB on the sound meter.
> 
> Did anyone experienced the same?


I just installed my projector yesterday and I definitely hear the fans on it with medium lamp. It's about 10ft away in an open cubby in the wall. I'm trying to think of ways to dampen the sound without blocking ventilation.


----------



## fredworld

hutt132 said:


> I just installed my projector yesterday and I definitely hear the fans on it with medium lamp. It's about 10ft away in an open cubby in the wall. I'm trying to think of ways to dampen the sound without blocking ventilation.


I use the projector in "MEDIUM" Power Consumption and the noise (measured with a SPL meter is 44db @ 3" from the front of the PJ) is not an issue. My ceiling is 7"6" and I sit just in front or in the second row on a riser where the ceiling is 7' just in back of the projector. On very rare ocasions I run the PJ in "HIGH" mode (52db) and it's louder but still not an issue for me. I hope this helps.


----------



## Medality

fredworld said:


> I use the projector in "MEDIUM" Power Consumption and the noise (measured with a SPL meter is 44db @ 3" from the front of the PJ) is not an issue. My ceiling is 7"6" and I sit just in front or in the second row on a riser where the ceiling is 7' just in back of the projector. On very rare ocasions I run the PJ in "HIGH" mode (52db) and it's louder but still not an issue for me. I hope this helps.


Thanks . So it seems it's just me. I don't know why I started focusing on that. I can swear it never bothered me before. Like I never heard it when a movie was playing. The human brain can be a PITA sometimes lol.


----------



## fredworld

DELETED


----------



## PixelPusher15

hutt132 said:


> I just installed my projector yesterday and I definitely hear the fans on it with medium lamp. It's about 10ft away in an open cubby in the wall. I'm trying to think of ways to dampen the sound without blocking ventilation.


If it is in an open cubby with no sound absorption then that cubby is going to act like a megaphone. Think cupping your hands around your mouth to focus the sound. Assuming you have room, I'd look at getting some cheap foam absorption panels from Amazon. If you can post a picture of it placement there may be more you can do. I'd also like to see it so that I can be sure my suggestion won't cause heat issues.


----------



## hutt132

PixelPusher15 said:


> If it is in an open cubby with no sound absorption then that cubby is going to act like a megaphone. Think cupping your hands around your mouth to focus the sound. Assuming you have room, I'd look at getting some cheap foam absorption panels from Amazon. If you can post a picture of it placement there may be more you can do. I'd also like to see it so that I can be sure my suggestion won't cause heat issues.


I put some thin sound panels up for now, but they don't do much. I'm thinking I could make my own dense panels out of old towels.


----------



## RVD26

I came across some calibration settings that recommended putting the lamp setting on 'High' rather than 'Medium'.
Is this a good idea?


----------



## Enchy

RVD26 said:


> I came across some calibration settings that recommended putting the lamp setting on 'High' rather than 'Medium'.
> Is this a good idea?


Don't copy other people's calibration settings. They're all dependent on your specific projector, room conditions, distance from screen, etc


----------



## PixelPusher15

hutt132 said:


> I put some thin sound panels up for now, but they don't do much. I'm thinking I could make my own dense panels out of old towels.
> 
> View attachment 3154861


Interesting that you mounted it and didn't just set it on the shelf in there. Is there a reason for that? Must of been a pain to mount! Unrelated to the topic but just found it intriguing. 

Towels should work and would probably work a bit better than foam but I did pick up these for behind my screen and they help cut down on higher pitch stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L6CT5ZP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pretty cheap if you just wanna try it out before putting in more work for the towels.


----------



## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> I came across some calibration settings that recommended putting the lamp setting on 'High' rather than 'Medium'.
> Is this a good idea?


Do what looks the best to you. Best way to know what is "best" is to get it calibrated but that costs money or time and a little less money...maybe. Still though, at the end of the day you have to like what it looks like and there's no harm trying some settings of others to get an idea of what others are doing. For instance, I saw that in just about every review that posted settings they all had gamma set to -1 or -2. No one had it set to its default. I would say it is safe to see how that setting looks since there's some agreement on it in various environments.

Anyway, just for some additional info. Setting it to high will shorten the life of the bulb and create more noise and heat. If you are ok with the tradeoffs you can probably get the best contrast with the lamp on high and then throttling down the manual iris. I've experimented with this and do like the results but I'm not ok with the tradeoffs. I have done it for a couple of big feature HDR movies where there weren't many quiet scenes. Still didn't like the noise though.


----------



## biglen

RVD26 said:


> I came across some calibration settings that recommended putting the lamp setting on 'High' rather than 'Medium'.
> Is this a good idea?


I had my 5050 professionally calibrated, and Kevin has my HDR calibration done with High lamp. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

biglen said:


> I had my 5050 professionally calibrated, and Kevin has my HDR calibration done with High lamp.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I asked a page ago but I think it got lost. Do you have to get recalibrated when your lamp is replaced? I got a quote for $400 from an ISF calibrator and I'm willing to do it if it persists between lamps


----------



## biglen

Enchy said:


> I asked a page ago but I think it got lost. Do you have to get recalibrated when your lamp is replaced? I got a quote for $400 from an ISF calibrator and I'm willing to do it if it persists between lamps


I just replaced my lamp a few months ago, and everything looks the same to me. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## RVD26

Enchy said:


> Don't copy other people's calibration settings. They're all dependent on your specific projector, room conditions, distance from screen, etc





PixelPusher15 said:


> Do what looks the best to you. Best way to know what is "best" is to get it calibrated but that costs money or time and a little less money...maybe. Still though, at the end of the day you have to like what it looks like and there's no harm trying some settings of others to get an idea of what others are doing. For instance, I saw that in just about every review that posted settings they all had gamma set to -1 or -2. No one had it set to its default. I would say it is safe to see how that setting looks since there's some agreement on it in various environments.
> 
> Anyway, just for some additional info. Setting it to high will shorten the life of the bulb and create more noise and heat. If you are ok with the tradeoffs you can probably get the best contrast with the lamp on high and then throttling down the manual iris. I've experimented with this and do like the results but I'm not ok with the tradeoffs. I have done it for a couple of big feature HDR movies where there weren't many quiet scenes. Still didn't like the noise though.





biglen said:


> I had my 5050 professionally calibrated, and Kevin has my HDR calibration done with High lamp.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I'm looking for a starting point in terms of calibration and will tweak as needed for my room settings.
I purchased the Spears & Munsil disc, but it's a bit more complicated than I thought it would be. I'm trying to work my way through it, but some of the stuff is over my head.
I do notice I brighter picture with the lamp on 'High', but I'm worried about the light bulb burning out much quicker and the increased fan noise.


----------



## biglen

I can't wrap my head around people spending $3k on a projector, and worrying about spending $150 on a bulb. If it looks good on High, then use it. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## RVD26

biglen said:


> I can't wrap my head around people spending $3k on a projector, and worrying about spending $150 on a bulb. If it looks good on High, then use it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


How often does the light bulb need to be replaced? I don't mind the $150, but I do mind having to replace it frequently if I don't have to.


----------



## biglen

RVD26 said:


> How often does the light bulb need to be replaced? I don't mind the $150, but I do mind having to replace it frequently if I don't have to.


I got 2 years out of mine, and I probably could have gone longer. It was a very subtle difference after replacing the bulb. The average person wouldn't have even noticed. Even if you replaced it once a year, $150 is nothing. I bet you spend more on coffee. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> I can't wrap my head around people spending $3k on a projector, and worrying about spending $150 on a bulb. If it looks good on High, then use it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


lol you know, I said the same thing when buying it and people said bulb costs are more. I’m like I don’t care I want the best picture. But then I get it and see that hour counter going up and start thinking about spending a couple hundred bucks on a lamp. Hypocrite! Lol.

Really though, it’s the noise that gets me.I have it installed just above my head in a 7’ ceiling theater. It’s hard to unhear it.


----------



## Medality

Is there any way to calibrate the white uniformity by eye? My white uniformity is wrong, especially noticeable when watching B&W movies. Some parts of the image are more green. I know I should have it professionally calibrated, but I'd like to know if there's something I could do in the meantime. I have the Spears & Munsil UHD disc, but didn't find anything to help.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Medality said:


> Is there any way to calibrate the white balance by eye? My white balance is wrong, especially noticeable when watching B&W movies. Some parts of the image are more green. I know I should have it professionally calibrated, but I'd like to know if there's something I could do in the meantime. I have the Spears & Munsil UHD disc, but didn't find anything to help.


I haven't tried this but I thought it was an interesting approach. I saw someone in, I think, the TK700STi thread use an iPad as a reference device to calibrate their display. They did it with a picture of a landscape but I think it may work well with test patterns. I'd pull up a 30IRE pattern on the 5050 and the iPad or a MacBook (something that is typically well-calibrated from the factory) then I'd adjust the 2-point greyscale settings to get it to match as close as you can. Do the same thing for 70IRE. This should get you pretty close but you could do the same thing with the 8-point greyscale settings. These are a bit weird and don't perfectly align to nice round IRE points though. Doing this won't get your gamma set well since you need to adjust brightness but it should help with getting better color balance. 

Again, I haven't tried it but I do think it would work in theory.


----------



## Medality

PixelPusher15 said:


> I haven't tried this but I thought it was an interesting approach. I saw someone in, I think, the TK700STi thread use an iPad as a reference device to calibrate their display. They did it with a picture of a landscape but I think it may work well with test patterns. I'd pull up a 30IRE pattern on the 5050 and the iPad or a MacBook (something that is typically well-calibrated from the factory) then I'd adjust the 2-point greyscale settings to get it to match as close as you can. Do the same thing for 70IRE. This should get you pretty close but you could do the same thing with the 8-point greyscale settings. These are a bit weird and don't perfectly align to nice round IRE points though. Doing this won't get your gamma set well since you need to adjust brightness but it should help with getting better color balance.
> 
> Again, I haven't tried it but I do think it would work in theory.


Thanks for the advice, but I should have asked about white uniformity (and not white balance). I've edited it. Sorry for that.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Medality said:


> Thanks for the advice, but I should have asked about white uniformity (and not white balance). I've edited it. Sorry for that.


Ah, so a single frame will be more green in some parts than others? I know there are color uniformity settings you can use to try to fix stuff like this but I haven't used them before. The manual outlines how to do it on pages 92-94


----------



## Medality

PixelPusher15 said:


> Ah, so a single frame will be more green in some parts than others? I know there are color uniformity settings you can use to try to fix stuff like this but I haven't used them before. The manual outlines how to do it on pages 92-94


Yes that's right. I tried to play with that setting, but it's really hard to get it right. Just wanted to know if someone had a trick to improve it. I understand if no one does 😄. Anyway, I want to have it professionally calibrated, but not right now.


----------



## DarrinH

Quick update on my dust blob. It moved out of the way and I do not see it now. Yay!


----------



## fredworld

DarrinH said:


> Quick update on my dust blob. It moved out of the way and I do not see it now. Yay!


Spontaneously? Is it gone or just in a less conspicuous area? 
Seems there might be hope for *mine*, yet.


----------



## etherealsound

Hello fellow 6050UB owners. I just got my 6050UB set up and seem to be having an issue. It seems like my Epson is dropping the connection with my AVR sporadically. I will be watching something and then the screen will go black for a moment and then come back up a moment later. Has anyone else ever had an issue like this? I am currently wondering if it is my HDMI cable so I am waiting on new ones to come in so I can test for that but was hoping someone else might have some input regarding this.


----------



## hms17B

Speaking of dust blobs. My old Sanyo that I just replaced with a 5050 had several small holes on the case where you could insert a long thin squeeze-bulb nozzle (provided with the unit) to dislodge dust from the LCDs. Never used it as I never had any dust in the room. Is it possible these Epsons might have any such access? There's nothing on top and I can't now turn it upside down to look at the bottom.


----------



## rekbones

etherealsound said:


> Hello fellow 6050UB owners. I just got my 6050UB set up and seem to be having an issue. It seems like my Epson is dropping the connection with my AVR sporadically. I will be watching something and then the screen will go black for a moment and then come back up a moment later. Has anyone else ever had an issue like this? I am currently wondering if it is my HDMI cable so I am waiting on new ones to come in so I can test for that but was hoping someone else might have some input regarding this.


Yes your handshake issue is very common and causes most of us headaches. The cables are to blame well over 90% of the time especially if you have any longer then 15'. Active powered cables are almost necessary for up to 25' and fiber optic is highly recommended for anything above 25'.


----------



## rekbones

hms17B said:


> Speaking of dust blobs. My old Sanyo that I just replaced with a 5050 had several small holes on the case where you could insert a long thin squeeze-bulb nozzle (provided with the unit) to dislodge dust from the LCDs. Never used it as I never had any dust in the room. Is it possible these Epsons might have any such access? There's nothing on top and I can't now turn it upside down to look at the bottom.


No there is no access. The recommended fix for dust blobs by the manufacture for out or warranty units is to replace the entire optical block. DIY and unauthorized repair services have cleaned these out successfully but disassembly is required never attempt to blow compressed air into any assembled projector.


----------



## biglen

rekbones said:


> Yes your handshake issue is very common and causes most of us headaches. The cables are to blame well over 90% of the time especially if you have any longer then 15'. Active powered cables are almost necessary for up to 25' and fiber optic is highly recommended for anything above 25'.


I'm using a Blue Jeans Cables 35' active cable, and it works flawlessly. No need to get raped for one of those overpriced fiber optic cables. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

etherealsound said:


> Hello fellow 6050UB owners. I just got my 6050UB set up and seem to be having an issue. It seems like my Epson is dropping the connection with my AVR sporadically. I will be watching something and then the screen will go black for a moment and then come back up a moment later. Has anyone else ever had an issue like this? I am currently wondering if it is my HDMI cable so I am waiting on new ones to come in so I can test for that but was hoping someone else might have some input regarding this.





rekbones said:


> Yes your handshake issue is very common and causes most of us headaches. The cables are to blame well over 90% of the time especially if you have any longer then 15'. Active powered cables are almost necessary for up to 25' and fiber optic is highly recommended for anything above 25'.





biglen said:


> I'm using a Blue Jeans Cables 35' active cable, and it works flawlessly. No need to get raped for one of those overpriced fiber optic cables.
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


@etherealsound
You can try a few things:
Bypass your AVR and connect to the PJ with a short run HDMI cable to see if it still happens.
Be sure EDID is set to ENHANCED on the PJ.
Check your AVR settings. Turn off CEC and HDMI Control.
Finally, check to be sure you're using a 4K certified HDMI cable with, at least, 18gbs.
Oh, AND be absolutely sure that your cables are well seated at the inputs/outputs.


----------



## Baron5

I have Kris Deering come to calibrate my projector and sound on the 21st. He only said the bulb needed over 100 hours.

I imagine you'd just have to burn in the new bulb to the same level (100 + hours) for the calibration to be accurate again. I'm certainly not paying $500 for a calibration for a new bulb so I hope my assumption is accurate.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Baron5 said:


> I have Kris Deering come to calibrate my projector and sound on the 21st. He only said the bulb needed over 100 hours.
> 
> I imagine you'd just have to burn in the new bulb to the same level (100 + hours) for the calibration to be accurate again. I'm certainly not paying $500 for a calibration for a new bulb so I hope my assumption is accurate.


I'd look into getting your own meter and having him calibrate that while he is out. That way you can check the calibration and possibly make small tweaks later if needed. The calibration will drift and new bulbs can be different. I would not expect it to be massively different but I noticed a change in my own DIY calibration from 100 hours to 200 hours. New bulbs decline 15-20% in the first few hundred hours, it's not done with that initial decline at 100 hours. I have to believe if the bulb is in that process of settling in at 100 hours then the calibration will drift more. Kris is supposed to be great so I'd watch what he is doing, ask some questions, have your own meter calibrated and then you may be able to adjust the projector throughout its life. Get a fishing lesson, not just a fish dinner.


----------



## Baron5

Ugh. Not sure I want to go down that rabbit hole or spend more money. If it's not a huge difference hopefully I won't notice.  
Just out of curiosity, what type of meter are you referring to? I've only used calibration disc's before.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Baron5 said:


> Ugh. Not sure I want to go down that rabbit hole or spend more money. If it's not a huge difference hopefully I won't notice.
> Just out of curiosity, what type of meter are you referring to? I've only used calibration disc's before.


I know there are others that will work but the standard go to one is the X-Rite i1 Display Pro. It's $260. Kris may be able to recommend you a different one. If I were you I would send him a message asking if he thinks the calibration will drift and if getting familiar with calibrating yourself would be a good idea. Also what meter he would recommend if you wanted to do it yourself. He most likely will charge for the meter calibration but usually there's a discount when they are bundling services. Not saying you have to do this, of course. Its just one of those things that having it done now is the time to do it and you may or may not kick yourself down the road if you don't.


----------



## Porknz

I'm thinking of trying some software to do my fantasy football draft on my 150" screen this fall instead of using paper and stickers. Anyone know how to use a macbook to mirror wirelessly?

Thanks!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Porknz said:


> I'm thinking of trying some software to do my fantasy football draft on my 150" screen this fall instead of using paper and stickers. Anyone know how to use a macbook to mirror wirelessly?
> 
> Thanks!


An AirPLay 2 compatible Roku would probably be the easiest/cheapest. An Apple TV obviously would work. But, I think that you can cast any tab in chrome to a Chromecast capable device. I've always had the worst luck doing mirroring on any device for more than 10 minutes. Something always glitches and the connection super hangs or just drops.


----------



## Porknz

PixelPusher15 said:


> An AirPLay 2 compatible Roku would probably be the easiest/cheapest. An Apple TV obviously would work. But, I think that you can cast any tab in chrome to a Chromecast capable device. I've always had the worst luck doing mirroring on any device for more than 10 minutes. Something always glitches and the connection super hangs or just drops.


I don't have a Roku (I have a fire cube?) or anything apple tv. I'll have to look up what chromecast is. I've mirrored my seven year old android phone on there no problem, but my wife hasn't been able to get her new i phone to work.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Porknz said:


> I don't have a Roku (I have a fire cube?) or anything apple tv. I'll have to look up what chromecast is. I've mirrored my seven year old android phone on there no problem, but my wife hasn't been able to get her new i phone to work.


If you are using the Fire Cube to do the mirroring that is using Chromecast. The confusing thing is that the technology is named the same as some Google Chromecast devices. iOS doesn't support Chromecast natively but some apps allow you to chromecast a stream to a supporting device, like your Fire Cube. YouTube is an example of this, look for this graphic









If you are just trying to mirror a webpage from your MacBook then download Chrome if you don't have it already. Go to the page you want to mirror and then at the top right of Chrome you will see 3 little dots (us UX designers call that the snowman menu), click it and look for a 'Cast' option. Your Fire Cube should come up and you can cast that tab to it.

All of this is me assuming you have the first gen fire cube. The second gen apparently doesn't support it.

If you want to get a Roku for just stuff like this on Apple devices then the Roku Express 4K+ is on sale for 30 bucks right now.


----------



## RVD26

A few times now and for the past two days when powering on my system, I get flashing on the screen with poor picture quality.
I am able to fix it by unplugging the HDMI cable (Monoprice 4K 18Gbps active cable) from my Denon AVR and plugging it back in.
I know most will say it's the HDMI cable, but since the issue is fixed when I unplug and plug it back in, I'm wondering if it could be something else.


----------



## Porknz

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you are using the Fire Cube to do the mirroring that is using Chromecast. The confusing thing is that the technology is named the same as some Google Chromecast devices. iOS doesn't support Chromecast natively but some apps allow you to chromecast a stream to a supporting device, like your Fire Cube. YouTube is an example of this, look for this graphic
> View attachment 3156309
> 
> 
> If you are just trying to mirror a webpage from your MacBook then download Chrome if you don't have it already. Go to the page you want to mirror and then at the top right of Chrome you will see 3 little dots (us UX designers call that the snowman menu), click it and look for a 'Cast' option. Your Fire Cube should come up and you can cast that tab to it.
> 
> All of this is me assuming you have the first gen fire cube. The second gen apparently doesn't support it.
> 
> If you want to get a Roku for just stuff like this on Apple devices then the Roku Express 4K+ is on sale for 30 bucks right now.


I am actually just looking to mirror my screen from my macbook air to project my fantasy football draft up on the projector for everyone to see. The Chrome snowman process sounds pretty easy. How do I know if I have the first or second generation of firecube (and why would gen 2 disable this feature?)?

Thanks!


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> A few times now and for the past two days when powering on my system, I get flashing on the screen with poor picture quality.
> I am able to fix it by unplugging the HDMI cable (Monoprice 4K 18Gbps active cable) from my Denon AVR and plugging it back in.
> I know most will say it's the HDMI cable, but since the issue is fixed when I unplug and plug it back in, I'm wondering if it could be something else.


Have you tried a different cable to see if the symptoms repeat?
Cleaned the HDMI input/output and HDMI cable terminations? *Caig products *work very well for that.
That's how I'd start the troubleshooting.


----------



## Shermstead

My 5040UB just died from power supply issue and, of course, is out of warranty. The power supply issue appears to be a well documented problem on the 5040 and Epson is not willing to deal with a recall or replacement. I’ve always enjoyed the 5040 and looking to replace with the 5050UB, but don’t want to run into another power supply issue. Does anyone know if Epson fixed this problem with the 5050?


----------



## Porknz

Porknz said:


> I am actually just looking to mirror my screen from my macbook air to project my fantasy football draft up on the projector for everyone to see. The Chrome snowman process sounds pretty easy. How do I know if I have the first or second generation of firecube (and why would gen 2 disable this feature?)?
> 
> Thanks!


I would guess from what I can see in my order history, it's a gen two. Picked it up about a year ago? I think the firecube was like a hundred and twenty bucks. What's the idea of mixing another streaming device into the mix? I don't want to further clog things up with a roku. Another cable for the cable rat nest and another remote to the remote bucket.


----------



## RVD26

fredworld said:


> Have you tried a different cable to see if the symptoms repeat?
> Cleaned the HDMI input/output and HDMI cable terminations? *Caig products *work very well for that.
> That's how I'd start the troubleshooting.


No, I have not tried a different cable because I don't currently have one long enough to reach from the projector on the ceiling to my AVR.
I was hoping to rule out other possibilities before buying a new cable.
Which product specifically from Caig would work for me?


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> No, I have not tried a different cable because I don't currently have one long enough to reach from the projector on the ceiling to my AVR.
> I was hoping to rule out other possibilities before buying a new cable.
> Which product specifically from Caig would work for me?


I've had the *Sampler Kit* for decades. Still works.
You might want to try bypassing your AVR and use a short cable from your source directly to the PJ to see if the problem persists. If it doesn't, then it's likely the AVR output. Also, try different HDMI outputs on the AVR.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Porknz said:


> I would guess from what I can see in my order history, it's a gen two. Picked it up about a year ago? I think the firecube was like a hundred and twenty bucks. What's the idea of mixing another streaming device into the mix? I don't want to further clog things up with a roku. Another cable for the cable rat nest and another remote to the remote bucket.


I found this for you: How to Mirror a Phone, Mac, or PC to a Fire TV Stick 

Looks like you will need an app called Airscreen to do it if you don't want to get another streaming device. I have done this on a Fire TV before but with a different app. It was flaky for me but maybe this app is better. I'm not sure if it is paid or not, but if it is a few bucks that is still better than a whole new device, right?


----------



## Porknz

PixelPusher15 said:


> I found this for you: How to Mirror a Phone, Mac, or PC to a Fire TV Stick
> 
> Looks like you will need an app called Airscreen to do it if you don't want to get another streaming device. I have done this on a Fire TV before but with a different app. It was flaky for me but maybe this app is better. I'm not sure if it is paid or not, but if it is a few bucks that is still better than a whole new device, right?


Thanks. I saw that and wondered if 'fire stick' also included 'fire cube'? Maybe I'll give it a shot for a few bucks if I can, as you suggested.


----------



## Porknz

Looking at the website, there is some sort of new(ish?) app to get iOS devices to display, but it seems it might require a wireless capable projector, and I have the 5050ub that is not wireless, hence the firecube (I think that's how I have wireless set up...).


----------



## Baron5

PixelPusher15 said:


> I know there are others that will work but the standard go to one is the X-Rite i1 Display Pro. It's $260. Kris may be able to recommend you a different one. If I were you I would send him a message asking if he thinks the calibration will drift and if getting familiar with calibrating yourself would be a good idea. Also what meter he would recommend if you wanted to do it yourself. He most likely will charge for the meter calibration but usually there's a discount when they are bundling services. Not saying you have to do this, of course. Its just one of those things that having it done now is the time to do it and you may or may not kick yourself down the road if you don't.


So Kris was here today. I haven't had a chance to check everything out but wanted to let you know that, according to Kris, there is variability in lamps and that he recommends getting a re-cal not only with a new bulb, but at about 800 hours on your current bulb. Yikes. Not sure I'm going to do that at $600 a pop but that was his recommendation. He ended up using Natural for the SDR/HDR calibration because he only measured 40.7 nits with the digital cinema filter in place. There are trade offs but the extra light (107 nits in Natural) paid more dividends than the extra color in Digital Cinema mode. I don't have the calibration files yet but did review them with him. Pretty decent before and after results with delta errors well below 3. Anyway, I just wanted to get back to you all so you had the info.


----------



## Porknz

I see there is simply a wireless module that usb's into the 5050ube. Can that simply be used on a 5050ub?


----------



## t0100980

Bought a used 6050ub and noticed that there's a blue dust blob or defect in the edge of the screen. As there's still warrant left I contacted Epson for maintenance. They told that device would be collected by DHL. 

Challence is that I don't have a original package which I think it's quite important to send such a heavy and fragile device as an international shipping....

I asked from Epson that isn't there an option to get a refurbished device as a replacement ( they haven't answered yet) as I have understood from the forums that Epson is using also that process instead of sending back and forth the customer device. Experiences on both options?

After asking refurbished device I'm having second thoughts about getting an another used device back as I know that only defect on my present device is that dust / defect on the edge of the screen.


----------



## fredworld

t0100980 said:


> Bought a used 6050ub and noticed that there's a blue dust blob or defect in the edge of the screen. As there's still warrant left I contacted Epson for maintenance. They told that device would be collected by DHL.
> 
> Challence is that I don't have a original package which I think it's quite important to send such a heavy and fragile device as an international shipping....
> 
> I asked from Epson that isn't there an option to get a refurbished device as a replacement ( they haven't answered yet) as I have understood from the forums that Epson is using also that process instead of sending back and forth the customer device. Experiences on both options?
> 
> After asking refurbished device I'm having second thoughts about getting an another used device back as I know that only defect on my present device is that dust / defect on the edge of the screen.


Well, FWIW, *here's my dust blob story**.*
I hope you can work it out.
PS: alterntively, I suppose you can contact your local DHL service to see if they'll pack the PJ for a fee. Fedex and UPS do that locally with very good results.


----------



## rustolemite

Screen recommendation? 
Now that I finally have my room painted and have a completely dark environment, and I am the only viewer so not worried about viewing angle.
So what Brand and specs, like Gain would you recommend? I am currently using a 137" AT screen and that's about the biggest my room will allow. 
Just not sure what to be looking for in a screen (other than AT) now that I have made the room dark.

Thanks.


----------



## biglen

rustolemite said:


> Screen recommendation?
> Now that I finally have my room painted and have a completely dark environment, and I am the only viewer so not worried about viewing angle.
> So what Brand and specs, like Gain would you recommend? I am currently using a 137" AT screen and that's about the biggest my room will allow.
> Just not sure what to be looking for in a screen (other than AT) now that I have made the room dark.
> 
> Thanks.


If you have a big wall that's empty, and don't want to have to deal with masking and black bars, you should consider a painted screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## etherealsound

rustolemite said:


> Screen recommendation?
> Now that I finally have my room painted and have a completely dark environment, and I am the only viewer so not worried about viewing angle.
> So what Brand and specs, like Gain would you recommend? I am currently using a 137" AT screen and that's about the biggest my room will allow.
> Just not sure what to be looking for in a screen (other than AT) now that I have made the room dark.
> 
> Thanks.


I went with Stewarts ST130G4. Incredible screen. Pricey, but you definitely get what you pay for.


----------



## Medality

Shermstead said:


> My 5040UB just died from power supply issue and, of course, is out of warranty. The power supply issue appears to be a well documented problem on the 5040 and Epson is not willing to deal with a recall or replacement. I’ve always enjoyed the 5040 and looking to replace with the 5050UB, but don’t want to run into another power supply issue. Does anyone know if Epson fixed this problem with the 5050?


From what I've read, Epson fixed the power supply issue on the 5050.


----------



## rustolemite

biglen said:


> If you have a big wall that's empty, and don't want to have to deal with masking and black bars, you should consider a painted screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thanks but need an Acoustic screen where I can put my speakers behind it, it's the only way I can fit the 137" size.


----------



## rustolemite

etherealsound said:


> I went with Stewarts ST130G4. Incredible screen. Pricey, but you definitely get what you pay for.


Thanks.. I see people using the Elite Screens combined with an Epson 5050 or full 4K JVC, and I am thinking are those screens the quality you would want to match with these type projectors.


----------



## marantz545

rustolemite said:


> Thanks.. I see people using the Elite Screens combined with an Epson 5050 or full 4K JVC, and I am thinking are those screens the quality you would want to match with these type projectors.


Is there anything wrong with your XD screen? The Stewart might be a tad better. I think most other AT screens are going to be a sideways move at best. Others will likely be a step backwards.


----------



## PixelPusher15

rustolemite said:


> Thanks but need an Acoustic screen where I can put my speakers behind it, it's the only way I can fit the 137" size.


What @marantz545 said. What don't you like about the XD? 

I've reviewed 25 AT materials here :25 Acoustically Transparent Screen Materials Reviewed...

I'm going to be redoing a bunch of it soon and have more materials coming in. There aren't many materials that beat the XD unless you don't like the texture of it.


----------



## hutt132

rustolemite said:


> Thanks.. I see people using the Elite Screens combined with an Epson 5050 or full 4K JVC, and I am thinking are those screens the quality you would want to match with these type projectors.


You can get some samples of AT screens.








Material Samples Kit for STR, STC, STT & S7 Series Fixed Screens


The White, Grey, 2GS, 2GP, WAB & WVS material all work with Ultra Short Throw (UST), Short Throw, Standard Throw and Long Throw Projection - All Projection Types. The 4W, Silver, HC, AGS & AGP materials are made for Standard Throw & Long Throw Projection Only. All Samples ship by USPS first...




www.silverticketproducts.com












[Sample] Screen Material


Not sure what screen material is best for your application? Check out our quick Screen Material Selection Guide for assistance on selecting the right material for your projection screen application. Visit https://elitescreens.com screen material section for more details. Comparison Tables All...




shop.elitescreens.com


----------



## rustolemite

marantz545 said:


> Is there anything wrong with your XD screen? The Stewart might be a tad better. I think most other AT screens are going to be a sideways move at best. Others will likely be a step backwards.


No not really just have had it for a few years and only recently I was able to black out the room, and was curious if there was another option that could improve my picture without breaking the bank. Just don't want to pay a lot more for a screen than I did my Epson.


----------



## rustolemite

PixelPusher15 said:


> What @marantz545 said. What don't you like about the XD?
> 
> I've reviewed 25 AT materials here :25 Acoustically Transparent Screen Materials Reviewed...
> 
> I'm going to be redoing a bunch of it soon and have more materials coming in. There aren't many materials that beat the XD unless you don't like the texture of it.


Not so much the texture, but think my picture could be brighter with a higher gain screen maybe not sure. The only problem I have had with the Seymour screen was that after we got it put together and setup I discovered that part of the actual frame wasn't 100% square which really doesn't affect movie watching and its only noticeable when I switch to PC.


----------



## Zedekias

PixelPusher15 said:


> What @marantz545 said. What don't you like about the XD?
> 
> I've reviewed 25 AT materials here :25 Acoustically Transparent Screen Materials Reviewed...
> 
> I'm going to be redoing a bunch of it soon and have more materials coming in. There aren't many materials that beat the XD unless you don't like the texture of it.


Where were these reviews when I purchased and installed the Carl's nano flexigray 9 months ago? 

It was such a horrible product that it swayed me from using any acoustic screen. And I was reimbursed and used a regular flexigray which I'm still unhappy with.

Great website and reviews! 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Zedekias said:


> Where were these reviews when I purchased and installed the Carl's nano flexigray 9 months ago?
> 
> It was such a horrible product that it swayed me from using any acoustic screen. And I was reimbursed and used a regular flexigray which I'm still unhappy with.
> 
> Great website and reviews!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Thanks. Yeah, that flexigray was shockingly bad. I'm surprised you like the regular one though. I thought there was too much sparkle/shimmer on the perforated version and thought it would transfer to the regular version.


----------



## Zedekias

PixelPusher15 said:


> Thanks. Yeah, that flexigray was shockingly bad. I'm surprised you like the regular one though. I thought there was too much sparkle/shimmer on the perforated version and thought it would transfer to the regular version.


No, I don't like the regular one either. Carl's place just sent me the regular in place of the nano and after installing two screens on my frame I am done for a while. I don't have any problems with shimmer, but it's not the smoothest and the main issue are faint vertical lines you can see in bright scenes. It happened on both of my screens. Just a garbage manufacturer defect.

I'll eventually replace it and refer back to your reviews. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## etherealsound

So I've been entertaining the (slim) possibility of an anamorphic lens for my 6050UB but can't seem to find any results regarding which ones would be compatible with the 6050UB. Does anyone here have any input regarding that?


----------



## fredworld

etherealsound said:


> So I've been entertaining the (slim) possibility of an anamorphic lens for my 6050UB but can't seem to find any results regarding which ones would be compatible with the 6050UB. Does anyone here have any input regarding that?


If you do a search for anamorphic lens in this discussion I think you'll find that the general consensus is that an A lens is necessary which costs about $3k. I use the zoom feature on my 5050 which gives excellent results for my size screen. Others may have different opinions based on screen size.


----------



## etherealsound

fredworld said:


> If you do a search for anamorphic lens in this discussion I think you'll find that the general consensus is that an A lens is necessary which costs about $3k. I use the zoom feature on my 5050 which gives excellent results for my size screen. Others may have different opinions based on screen size.


Hey there, so I'm still relatively new to this website and I'm not really seeing any "search within thread" function which is why I was asking since I don't have the time to browse through 580 pages of discussion haha. Is the model name or number of the compatible a-lens available somewhere in this thread?


----------



## PixelPusher15

etherealsound said:


> Hey there, so I'm still relatively new to this website and I'm not really seeing any "search within thread" function which is why I was asking since I don't have the time to browse through 580 pages of discussion haha. Is the model name or number of the compatible a-lens available somewhere in this thread?











You have to type something in the search box for these options to come up.

I feel like I've seen some people in calssifieds say that have used some older panamorph lenses that aren't that expensive at all.


----------



## etherealsound

PixelPusher15 said:


> View attachment 3157339
> 
> You have to type something in the search box for these options to come up.
> 
> I feel like I've seen some people in calssifieds say that have used some older panamorph lenses that aren't that expensive at all.


Thank you so much. It seems obvious now but I guess it wasn't quite as intuitive for me to figure that out.


----------



## cbatc

PixelPusher15 said:


> View attachment 3157339
> 
> You have to type something in the search box for these options to come up.
> 
> I feel like I've seen some people in calssifieds say that have used some older panamorph lenses that aren't that expensive at all.


I've been trying to figure this out for a while. LOL Thanks


----------



## mon2479

Sometimes when I turn on the 5050, the fan will go into super speed right away for a while and it takes a while to finally get an image. Any ideas why it does this? Normally I turn on the 5050 and the fan speed is normal and I start seeing the epson logo gradually come on, then the image. When the fan is on overdrive, the epson logo never comes on, it eventually goes straight to the image. Once the picture is up, the fan speed goes back to normal.

Thanks


----------



## biglen

mon2479 said:


> Sometimes when I turn on the 5050, the fan will go into super speed right away for a while and it takes a while to finally get an image. Any ideas why it does this? Normally I turn on the 5050 and the fan speed is normal and I start seeing the epson logo gradually come on, then the image. When the fan is on overdrive, the epson logo never comes on, it eventually goes straight to the image. Once the picture is up, the fan speed goes back to normal.
> 
> Thanks


That happens to me sometimes too. I think someone said it does it to blow any dust out of the filter?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## RVD26

mon2479 said:


> Sometimes when I turn on the 5050, the fan will go into super speed right away for a while and it takes a while to finally get an image. Any ideas why it does this? Normally I turn on the 5050 and the fan speed is normal and I start seeing the epson logo gradually come on, then the image. When the fan is on overdrive, the epson logo never comes on, it eventually goes straight to the image. Once the picture is up, the fan speed goes back to normal.
> 
> Thanks


I get the same thing as well with my 5050 refurb that I just started watching on last month.


----------



## Baron5

RVD26 said:


> I get the same thing as well with my 5050 refurb that I just started watching on last month.


Happens randomly with my 6050 ad well.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

Baron5 said:


> Happens randomly with my 6050 ad well.


Same with my new 6050. I don’t believe it’s an issue and normal.


----------



## DaGamePimp

1254 hours on my 5050ub and that has never happened.

Maybe it varies by firmware revision, or how often the filter is cleaned. 

- Jason


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

mon2479 said:


> Sometimes when I turn on the 5050, the fan will go into super speed right away for a while and it takes a while to finally get an image. Any ideas why it does this? Normally I turn on the 5050 and the fan speed is normal and I start seeing the epson logo gradually come on, then the image. When the fan is on overdrive, the epson logo never comes on, it eventually goes straight to the image. Once the picture is up, the fan speed goes back to normal.
> 
> Thanks


My 6050 does the same. Might be some sort of internal cleaning feature.


----------



## LowellG

Hello, I have a question on running my 6050 in 2.35:1. I am thinking about going to a Cinemascope screen. I know I have to set up a lens memory, However, does the projector start up in 2.35:1 each time, or will it be 16x9 and I have to change it every time?

Thanks,


----------



## fredworld

LowellG said:


> Hello, I have a question on running my 6050 in 2.35:1. I am thinking about going to a Cinemascope screen. I know I have to set up a lens memory, However, does the projector start up in 2.35:1 each time, or will it be 16x9 and I have to change it every time?
> 
> Thanks,


Boots up to last lens memory used.


----------



## LowellG

fredworld said:


> Boots up to last lens memory used.


Great, thanks a lot.


----------



## levy07

Just got an open box 6050 with around 2k lamp hours. Watched an hdr blu ray and picure looks good. When does hdr brightness start to lessen for hours used.


----------



## PixelPusher15

levy07 said:


> Just got an open box 6050 with around 2k lamp hours. Watched an hdr blu ray and picure looks good. When does hdr brightness start to lessen for hours used.


Lamps usually take a ~20% drop in lumens over the first few hundred hours and then it is a gradual decline to 50% brightness (the rated end of life level). The ratings from Epson are: Up to 5,000 hours (ECO Mode); up to 4,000 hours (Medium Mode); up to 3,500 hours (High Mode)

you’re already past the big decline and are just on the gradual decline to 50%.


----------



## levy07

PixelPusher15 said:


> Lamps usually take a ~20% drop in lumens over the first few hundred hours and then it is a gradual decline to 50% brightness (the rated end of life level). The ratings from Epson are: Up to 5,000 hours (ECO Mode); up to 4,000 hours (Medium Mode); up to 3,500 hours (High Mode)
> 
> you’re already past the big decline and are just on the gradual decline to 50%.


Thank you I bought a replacement lamp to have ready


----------



## jerrymcdon

ANYONE HAVE INSIGHT INTO RANDOM SCREEN RE-SIZING BEHAVIOR ON 5050UB???

Would really appreciate if someone knows what's going on here. I just bought the 5050ub from Crutchfield, a second-home new install to my existing 5040ub. This new 5050 shows occasional odd screen size behavior, can't figure out what the problem is.

For instance, feeding from my Amazon FireTV .... I found myself happily watching some Hulu or Netflix show, with the zoom properly set for my screen. Then somehow I notice the thing zoomed out automatically, by itself, and enlarged the projected image several inches all around, at some point in the same show!

Or I could have it properly sized in Hulu, watching, say, Preacher, and then when I switch to Cardinal, suddenly the projected image shrinks several inches all around. All I can figure out is that Cardinal is Canadian, maybe they have some different signal embedded in it?

This is driving me absolutely nuts, and I don't want to have to return the 5050 under a mistaken assumption it's defective (though that's what it seems to be heading to). I _never_ had such problems with my 5040 ... a FireTV image is the same size once I've properly tweaked it for my screen, no matter what. No adjustments needed between Netflix and Hulu, and certainly not between programs within the same streaming service, like the Hulu Preacher / Cardinal glitch I described above.

Granted, I haven't exhausted all possibilities in the food chain yet. I have my (same old) FireTV feeding into a new 4x1 HDMI splitter (4 sources in, one out). The one out then goes to an HDMI to HDMI + RCA converter, so I can feed the video signal to the Epson, then the audio to my old vintage receiver. Both splitters are new, recently ordered from Amazon, good reviews. I can see it might be possible that the 4x1 HDMI splitter may be the one doing weird things, and it's not the projector that's at fault. 

I'm going to swap out for a new 4x1 or 4x2 splitter to see if that solves the problem, but I thought to ask those with experience here if they might have any clues as to what may be going on. Maybe there's a setting in the projector that I have mis-set, I don't know. 

Thanks very much!

Jerry


----------



## fredworld

jerrymcdon said:


> ANYONE HAVE INSIGHT INTO RANDOM SCREEN RE-SIZING BEHAVIOR ON 5050UB???
> 
> Would really appreciate if someone knows what's going on here. I just bought the 5050ub from Crutchfield, a second-home new install to my existing 5040ub. This new 5050 shows occasional odd screen size behavior, can't figure out what the problem is.
> 
> For instance, feeding from my Amazon FireTV .... I found myself happily watching some Hulu or Netflix show, with the zoom properly set for my screen. Then somehow I notice the thing zoomed out automatically, by itself, and enlarged the projected image several inches all around, at some point in the same show!
> 
> Or I could have it properly sized in Hulu, watching, say, Preacher, and then when I switch to Cardinal, suddenly the projected image shrinks several inches all around. All I can figure out is that Cardinal is Canadian, maybe they have some different signal embedded in it?
> 
> This is driving me absolutely nuts, and I don't want to have to return the 5050 under a mistaken assumption it's defective (though that's what it seems to be heading to). I _never_ had such problems with my 5040 ... a FireTV image is the same size once I've properly tweaked it for my screen, no matter what. No adjustments needed between Netflix and Hulu, and certainly not between programs within the same streaming service, like the Hulu Preacher / Cardinal glitch I described above.
> 
> Granted, I haven't exhausted all possibilities in the food chain yet. I have my (same old) FireTV feeding into a new 4x1 HDMI splitter (4 sources in, one out). The one out then goes to an HDMI to HDMI + RCA converter, so I can feed the video signal to the Epson, then the audio to my old vintage receiver. Both splitters are new, recently ordered from Amazon, good reviews. I can see it might be possible that the 4x1 HDMI splitter may be the one doing weird things, and it's not the projector that's at fault.
> 
> I'm going to swap out for a new 4x1 or 4x2 splitter to see if that solves the problem, but I thought to ask those with experience here if they might have any clues as to what may be going on. Maybe there's a setting in the projector that I have mis-set, I don't know.
> 
> Thanks very much!
> 
> Jerry


I'm not familiar with how your set up is supposed to work, but my 5050 _*NEVER*_ automatically changes lens settings. I'd take it up with Epson. My gut tells me that there might be a short in the lens motor or perhaps the remote is defective and randomly sending lens setting signals.


----------



## jerrymcdon

fredworld said:


> I'm not familiar with how your set up is supposed to work, but my 5050 _*NEVER*_ automatically changes lens settings. I'd take it up with Epson. My gut tells me that there might be a short in the lens motor or perhaps the remote is defective and randomly sending lens setting signals.


Thanks very much, but a short in lens motor, or defective remote, couldn't explain why switching from Preacher to Cardinal causes Cardinal to invariably, and instantly upon switch, to show on a screen several inches shorter all around. Or why changing back to Preacher gives me back my properly sized projection.

It's like changing from FireTV (16:9) to some Cinerama 2:35 disc on my Sony Blu-Ray player. THEN I'd of course expect the projected image is different, and I need to invoke a saved-lens-position memory setting to fill up the screen in either height or width. But never within a FireTV-supplied streaming service signal from one show to another, or between Hulu and Netflix......

But thanks anyway.


----------



## DaGamePimp

jerrymcdon said:


> Thanks very much, but a short in lens motor, or defective remote, couldn't explain why switching from Preacher to Cardinal causes Cardinal to invariably, and instantly upon switch, to show on a screen several inches shorter all around. Or why changing back to Preacher gives me back my properly sized projection.
> 
> It's like changing from FireTV (16:9) to some Cinerama 2:35 disc on my Sony Blu-Ray player. THEN I'd of course expect the projected image is different, and I need to invoke a saved-lens-position memory setting to fill up the screen in either height or width. But never within a FireTV-supplied streaming service signal from one show to another, or between Hulu and Netflix......
> 
> But thanks anyway.


The first step is to remove any external devices from the chain, do a source direct to display test and see if the behavior continues.

- Jason


----------



## hms17B

I posted a little while back about my experience with a new 5050UB and black level. At someone's suggestion I contacted Epson and they thought there might be some internal fault and that I should send it in for replacement. I did, and the unit being about 30 days from purchase, they sent a new one. I couldn't mount the two simultaneously so couldn't do any direct comparison, but the new appeared to be darker on completely dark material, like test patterns. So I returned the first one and kept the new. I'm sufficiently pleased with it now. My room isn't ideal - has darkening shades but still has light walls and ceiling. Scenes with bright portions do wash out blacks as expected due to room reflections, but really dark material where there's very little to reflect off the room now looks dark enough. There's a lot I can still do. Better screen, treat the room, better calibration. But now I feel I have a satisfying starting point.


----------



## biglen

hms17B said:


> I posted a little while back about my experience with a new 5050UB and black level. At someone's suggestion I contacted Epson and they thought there might be some internal fault and that I should send it in for replacement. I did, and the unit being about 30 days from purchase, they sent a new one. I couldn't mount the two simultaneously so couldn't do any direct comparison, but the new appeared to be darker on completely dark material, like test patterns. So I returned the first one and kept the new. I'm sufficiently pleased with it now. My room isn't ideal - has darkening shades but still has light walls and ceiling. Scenes with bright portions do wash out blacks as expected due to room reflections, but really dark material where there's very little to reflect off the room now looks dark enough. There's a lot I can still do. Better screen, treat the room, better calibration. But now I feel I have a satisfying starting point.


Yeah, the darker you get that room, the more blown away you'll be with the image it throws. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sianofabio

LowellG said:


> Hello, I have a question on running my 6050 in 2.35:1. I am thinking about going to a Cinemascope screen. I know I have to set up a lens memory, However, does the projector start up in 2.35:1 each time, or will it be 16x9 and I have to change it every time?
> 
> Thanks,


the big problem with 2.35 screen are those movies that has both 1.78 and 2.35. JVC people are lucky cause they get a crop mode that shows the 16x9 crop to 2.35. Epson did not add this feature for us... BUT if you have an OPPO 203 it will do the cropping for you in 29.1 crop mode. So Imax sceen will fit your 2.35 sceen. MAGIC!


----------



## Medality

sianofabio said:


> the big problem with 2.35 screen are those movies that has both 1.78 and 2.35. JVC people are lucky cause they get a crop mode that shows the 16x9 crop to 2.35. Epson did not add this feature for us... BUT if you have an OPPO 203 it will do the cropping for you in 29.1 crop mode. So Imax sceen will fit your 2.35 sceen. MAGIC!


You can definitely crop the 16:9 image to 2.35:1 on the Epson. Look for Blanking in the settings.


----------



## kelvcast

jarjar2k3 said:


> Hello all,
> I have been enjoying this forum for several years and using other's settings for my projectors over the years.
> From a Samsung SPA600B, to an EPSON HC4010 and now an EPSON 6050UB.
> A few month ago, I have decided to buy an Xrite i1 display pro and go into the world of calibration.
> So now is my time to share.
> Materials:
> 
> EPSON 6050UB
> Lamp usage : 150h
> Screen DRAPER REACT 2.1 100 inch
> Batcave with matte black wall and ceiling
> 
> 3D setting has been done with EPSON 3D glasses
> Hope it will be useful,
> 
> jarjar from Paris


SDR Bright looks great on my 135" EliteScreens 5D. All I had to do was lower the offset on green to 48 vs 52. Thanks my man. Colors really improved!


----------



## Bigbob777

Hi all. Couple questions on the 6050/5050 (I own the 6050). Does the projector automatically switch to widescreen (2.40:1) when I put in a widescreen uhd disk on my panasonic 820? Does it automatically play HDR? Or do I have to change it manually through the menu each time a movie is changed?
Does it play Dolbyvision (i have the denon 6700.
I have a batcave; are there any recommended calibration settings I should use? I live in the mountains, so getting it professionally done is prohibitive.
Sorry for the basic questions. Just don’t have the knowledge base yet.
bob


----------



## mon2479

Bigbob777 said:


> Hi all. Couple questions on the 6050/5050 (I own the 6050). Does the projector automatically switch to widescreen (2.40:1) when I put in a widescreen uhd disk on my panasonic 820? Does it automatically play HDR? Or do I have to change it manually through the menu each time a movie is changed?
> Does it play Dolbyvision (i have the denon 6700.
> I have a batcave; are there any recommended calibration settings I should use? I live in the mountains, so getting it professionally done is prohibitive.
> Sorry for the basic questions. Just don’t have the knowledge base yet.
> bob


Hey Bob,
So with the Epson, you have to manually do everything. I have a widescreen, so when I watch a 2.35 movie, I select my preset screen size, when i watch a 16:9, again i select my preset size, same thing with Netflix and their in between size. You can save 10 screen sizes, it's easy although the memory feature is not perfect. When u r watching HDR, you have to select digital cinema to engage color filter and it will be the only time u r able to use the HDR slider. For dolby vision, that's a no go. You do have the option of buying a device that will give u LLDV from HDFURY.COM, it's pretty good, I got the ARCANA, it only does 2 channel, but my receiver reconverts the audio to Dolby digital. So the setup is A4K>ARCANA>RECEIVER >EPSON. I found some setting on projector reviews and they look good to me so I use those, I have rosco tv black paint in my room so the light reflection is very minimal compared to any other paint u can get at the store. Some day I will look into VANTA BLACK, it's too expensive right now. As far as settings, use what looks good to you. 

Hope this helps

Hope this helps


----------



## fredworld

Bigbob777 said:


> Hi all. Couple questions on the 6050/5050 (I own the 6050). Does the projector automatically switch to widescreen (2.40:1) when I put in a widescreen uhd disk on my panasonic 820? Does it automatically play HDR? Or do I have to change it manually through the menu each time a movie is changed?
> Does it play Dolbyvision (i have the denon 6700.
> I have a batcave; are there any recommended calibration settings I should use? I live in the mountains, so getting it professionally done is prohibitive.
> Sorry for the basic questions. Just don’t have the knowledge base yet.
> bob


I don't recommend relying on the posted settings of others as there are far too many variables involved among room set up, light control, manufacturing variances, lamp performance, personal taste, etc.
Purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc was one of the best investments I made at $40 for my display. The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm just about spot on with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs. Most of the patterns are for "evaluation only" while a few are specifically for adjusting user controls. It's those few that I return to for tweaking, mainly, Brightness, Contrast and the disc's Demo Material for Color/Tint, and for further fine tuning, judicious use of the HDR slider of the 5050 or in my Panasonic player. Some experimentation of the projector's GAMMA setting is necessary. I settled on -2 in Digital Cinema mode then proceeded to finalize my "calibration." Depending on source material I find that I might need only to move BRIGHTNESS or (if UHD) the HDR slider a notch or two, +or-, to achieve quite pleasing satisfactory results.
The *Getting Started Guide* on the S&M website is worth taking the time to read through and once one gets the basic understanding for the actual adjusting it only takes about 10-15 minutes to "calibrate." It doesn't replace a professional calibration but the highly satisfactory results I've gotten have discouraged me from pursuing one. My set-up is relatively conservative in screen size. Perhaps if my screen was as large as some on this forum I might feel otherwise about a pro-cal.
Having said all that, I'll add that adding the Sony UBP-X800M2 necessitated creating an extra setting memory because my Sony displays wider dynamic range for contrast than my Panasonic 820 and 420, in that more of the brightest bars are visible in the S&M UHD Benchmark disc's CONTRAST pattern.


----------



## Bigbob777

mon2479 said:


> Hey Bob,
> So with the Epson, you have to manually do everything. I have a widescreen, so when I watch a 2.35 movie, I select my preset screen size, when i watch a 16:9, again i select my preset size, same thing with Netflix and their in between size. You can save 10 screen sizes, it's easy although the memory feature is not perfect. When u r watching HDR, you have to select digital cinema to engage color filter and it will be the only time u r able to use the HDR slider. For dolby vision, that's a no go. You do have the option of buying a device that will give u LLDV from HDFURY.COM, it's pretty good, I got the ARCANA, it only does 2 channel, but my receiver reconverts the audio to Dolby digital. So the setup is A4K>ARCANA>RECEIVER >EPSON. I found some setting on projector reviews and they look good to me so I use those, I have rosco tv black paint in my room so the light reflection is very minimal compared to any other paint u can get at the store. Some day I will look into VANTA BLACK, it's too expensive right now. As far as settings, use what looks good to you.
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Hope this helps


Thank, this helps alot.
bob


----------



## Bigbob777

Does the memory button only save screen size, or also thecalibration settings; i.e. the hdr settings?


----------



## fredworld

Bigbob777 said:


> Does the memory button only save screen size, or also the calibration settings; i.e. the hdr settings?


Calibration Settings are saved in the Memory. 
Screen size is saved in the Lens Position Memory.
See page 121 of the *Epson Manual*.


----------



## Bigbob777

Thx


----------



## thisisauniqusername

Has anyone ever had a faint purple dot on their screen? Just bought a 5050ub new from Crutchfield and its projecting a small 2x2" purple dot on the screen.


----------



## rekbones

thisisauniqusername said:


> Has anyone ever had a faint purple dot on their screen? Just bought a 5050ub new from Crutchfield and its projecting a small 2x2" purple dot on the screen.


Sounds like a dust blob. Try adjusting the focus as dust blobs generally are outside of the panel focal plain. If you can make the blob more defined by adjusting the focus it will confirm what it is. Regardless it's a warranty issue and act fast if you want a new replacement other wise your dealing with a refurbed.


----------



## thisisauniqusername

rekbones said:


> Sounds like a dust blob. Try adjusting the focus as dust blobs generally are outside of the panel focal plain. If you can make the blob more defined by adjusting the focus it will confirm what it is. Regardless it's a warranty issue and act fast if you want a new replacement other wise your dealing with a refurbed.


I tried the focus already and it didn't define the blob. May be dust inside somewhere. Either way I'll call Crutchfield this morning. Thanks.


----------



## hutt132

Does anyone else have really bad hotspotting on their projector? I just received mine today and there's a large GREEN hotspot in the middle. You can sort of see in this picture:


----------



## fredworld

hutt132 said:


> Does anyone else have really bad hotspotting on their projector? I just received mine today and there's a large GREEN hotspot in the middle. You can sort of see in this picture:
> 
> View attachment 3160855


Not with mine. I have a 1.0 screen so it's not really subject to hotspotting. The lamps, to my understanding, output a lot of green, so if a high gain screen is in use then I can imagine such a hotspot.
Is the PJ calibrated at all or is it on its default settings?
What source, if any, is the green hotspot most noticeable?
If you're passing the signal through an AVR, try a direct to PJ connection to see if it's still there. Is the PJ under warranty, yet? If it's still there with a direct connection, I'd contact Epson about it.


----------



## Luminated67

^My thoughts too, high gain screen might highlight this more than my 0.9 gain one because I can't see it on mine either.


----------



## nel5150

Hello,

Hoping someone can help me out. During my basement build, on the recommendation of many, I purchased a 40 foot RUIPRO fiber HDMI cable and buried it in the ceiling:









Amazon.com: RUIPRO 4K HDMI Fiber Optic Cable 3 Feet 18Gbps [email protected] ARC HDR10 Ultra Slim Flexible HDMI 2.0b Cable : Electronics


Buy RUIPRO 4K HDMI Fiber Optic Cable 3 Feet 18Gbps [email protected] ARC HDR10 Ultra Slim Flexible HDMI 2.0b Cable: HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





Fast forward to today - installing all my equipment, and hooked up my Denon 6700H to my 6050 with this cable and screen goes black when plugged in. Even the "Source HDMI - No Signal" in the corner of the screen goes away. Completely blank screen. When this happens, I cannot even power off the 6050 - either with the remote or on the projector. No on screen 6050 setup menus - nothing. As soon as one end or the other of the HDMI cable is unplugged the projector is back to normal. If I unplug the HDMI cable from the Denon and plug it into any other source (Tivo, DVD player, FireTV, etc) - I get a picture - so I know the cable isn't "broken", but it certainly seems to have a problem with the Denon? I just find it strange that it's not just no picture, but almost like it locks up the projector in a sense that no buttons work.

Anyone know what's going on here? I am hoping it's the cable and not the projector or receiver. I thought I was buying a very good cable in order to avoid any issues due to the 40 foot run, and here I am on day one with cable issues on a cable that I cannot return as it was purchased months ago..

I'm guessing a new cable is likely in order. Does anyone have any recommendations for this equipment combo with a length of 40+ feet? There are hundreds on Amazon, and all have great reviews mixed in with horror stories.

Thank you!


----------



## Luminated67

Is the cable the right direction?
Also how sure are you the cable was working prior to putting into the ceiling?


----------



## fredworld

nel5150 said:


> Hello,
> 
> Hoping someone can help me out. During my basement build, on the recommendation of many, I purchased a 40 foot RUIPRO fiber HDMI cable and buried it in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: RUIPRO 4K HDMI Fiber Optic Cable 3 Feet 18Gbps [email protected] ARC HDR10 Ultra Slim Flexible HDMI 2.0b Cable : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy RUIPRO 4K HDMI Fiber Optic Cable 3 Feet 18Gbps [email protected] ARC HDR10 Ultra Slim Flexible HDMI 2.0b Cable: HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward to today - installing all my equipment, and hooked up my Denon 6700H to my 6050 with this cable and screen goes black when plugged in. Even the "Source HDMI - No Signal" in the corner of the screen goes away. Completely blank screen. When this happens, I cannot even power off the 6050 - either with the remote or on the projector. No on screen 6050 setup menus - nothing. As soon as one end or the other of the HDMI cable is unplugged the projector is back to normal. If I unplug the HDMI cable from the Denon and plug it into any other source (Tivo, DVD player, FireTV, etc) - I get a picture - so I know the cable isn't "broken", but it certainly seems to have a problem with the Denon? I just find it strange that it's not just no picture, but almost like it locks up the projector in a sense that no buttons work.
> 
> Anyone know what's going on here? I am hoping it's the cable and not the projector or receiver. I thought I was buying a very good cable in order to avoid any issues due to the 40 foot run, and here I am on day one with cable issues on a cable that I cannot return as it was purchased months ago..
> 
> I'm guessing a new cable is likely in order. Does anyone have any recommendations for this equipment combo with a length of 40+ feet? There are hundreds on Amazon, and all have great reviews mixed in with horror stories.
> 
> Thank you!


Is CEC and HDMI Control OFF? It should be off.


----------



## hutt132

fredworld said:


> Not with mine. I have a 1.0 screen so it's not really subject to hotspotting. The lamps, to my understanding, output a lot of green, so if a high gain screen is in use then I can imagine such a hotspot.
> Is the PJ calibrated at all or is it on its default settings?
> What source, if any, is the green hotspot most noticeable?
> If you're passing the signal through an AVR, try a direct to PJ connection to see if it's still there. Is the PJ under warranty, yet? If it's still there with a direct connection, I'd contact Epson about it.


This is with default settings on Natural mode. Shows on other modes too. PJ is plugged directly into source. Screen is CineWhite UHD-B with 1.3 gain.


----------



## nel5150

Luminated67 said:


> Is the cable the right direction?
> Also how sure are you the cable was working prior to putting into the ceiling?


Cable is in the right direction. I'm not sure that the cable was working prior as I did not have this equipment at the time of construction. However, the cable is working from the projector to any source besides the receiver.


----------



## nel5150

fredworld said:


> Is CEC and HDMI Control OFF? It should be off.


Yes - I have HDMI Control set to OFF on the 6700.


----------



## fredworld

nel5150 said:


> Yes - I have HDMI Control set to OFF on the 6700.


Off on PJ, too? EDID should be set to ENHANCED.


----------



## fredworld

hutt132 said:


> This is with default settings on Natural mode. Shows on other modes too. PJ is plugged directly into source. Screen is CineWhite UHD-B with 1.3 gain.


Try different lamp brightness settings. I presume you're on HIGH.
Try calibrating, at least subjectively. I use the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark *disc.
Epson might be of help, too.


----------



## rekbones

nel5150 said:


> Cable is in the right direction. I'm not sure that the cable was working prior as I did not have this equipment at the time of construction. However, the cable is working from the projector to any source besides the receiver.


HDMI cables are a real PIA. It doesn't matter what the manufacture specs state or even what you pay for them some just work and others just don't. I hope you installed conduit for your buried cable because you most likely will need to change it often. The only way to verify if it's the Denon or not is to hook it up with a short cable to test it if it still doesn't work then you have got issues with it.


----------



## Medality

nel5150 said:


> Hello,
> 
> Hoping someone can help me out. During my basement build, on the recommendation of many, I purchased a 40 foot RUIPRO fiber HDMI cable and buried it in the ceiling:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: RUIPRO 4K HDMI Fiber Optic Cable 3 Feet 18Gbps [email protected] ARC HDR10 Ultra Slim Flexible HDMI 2.0b Cable : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy RUIPRO 4K HDMI Fiber Optic Cable 3 Feet 18Gbps [email protected] ARC HDR10 Ultra Slim Flexible HDMI 2.0b Cable: HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fast forward to today - installing all my equipment, and hooked up my Denon 6700H to my 6050 with this cable and screen goes black when plugged in. Even the "Source HDMI - No Signal" in the corner of the screen goes away. Completely blank screen. When this happens, I cannot even power off the 6050 - either with the remote or on the projector. No on screen 6050 setup menus - nothing. As soon as one end or the other of the HDMI cable is unplugged the projector is back to normal. If I unplug the HDMI cable from the Denon and plug it into any other source (Tivo, DVD player, FireTV, etc) - I get a picture - so I know the cable isn't "broken", but it certainly seems to have a problem with the Denon? I just find it strange that it's not just no picture, but almost like it locks up the projector in a sense that no buttons work.
> 
> Anyone know what's going on here? I am hoping it's the cable and not the projector or receiver. I thought I was buying a very good cable in order to avoid any issues due to the 40 foot run, and here I am on day one with cable issues on a cable that I cannot return as it was purchased months ago..
> 
> I'm guessing a new cable is likely in order. Does anyone have any recommendations for this equipment combo with a length of 40+ feet? There are hundreds on Amazon, and all have great reviews mixed in with horror stories.
> 
> Thank you!


Sounds like the PJ is in the HDMI handshake phase. The screen goes blank when it happens, and remote controls are not responding. How long did you wait before unplugging the cable?
With my 25' cable (also connected to a Denon), it can take up to 10 seconds for the handshake to resolve. Maybe your cable makes the process even slower.
EDIT : Try also to reduce the HDMI bandwidth (ex : use 4:2:2 instead of 4:4:4).


----------



## hutt132

fredworld said:


> Try different lamp brightness settings. I presume you're on HIGH.
> Try calibrating, at least subjectively. I use the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark *disc.
> Epson might be of help, too.


Lamp is on Medium. I don't see how you can calibrate out a green hotspot in the entire center, when the sides look normal. 
I called Espon and their support said it sound like a hardware failure already. This is my second 5050UB. The first one just flat out died.


----------



## fredworld

hutt132 said:


> Lamp is on Medium. I don't see how you can calibrate out a green hotspot in the entire center, when the sides look normal.
> I called Espon and their support said it sound like a hardware failure already. This is my second 5050UB. The first one just flat out died.


Well, hopefully, the third time is the charm. 
I've found Epson's customer service to be very good.
Good luck.


----------



## nel5150

fredworld said:


> Off on PJ, too? EDID should be set to ENHANCED.


Yes, I have set EDID to enhanced, and HDMI Link to "off"


----------



## nel5150

rekbones said:


> HDMI cables are a real PIA. It doesn't matter what the manufacture specs state or even what you pay for them some just work and others just don't. I hope you installed conduit for your buried cable because you most likely will need to change it often. The only way to verify if it's the Denon or not is to hook it up with a short cable to test it if it still doesn't work then you have got issues with it.


Yeah, I placed the Denon next to the projector and tested a short cheap HDMI cable, and that worked just fine.

I do have conduit so I am able to run a new cable if need be. Does anyone have any experience with long HDMI runs from a Denon receiver to an Epson 6050/5050 and can provide a cable recommendation?


----------



## nel5150

Medality said:


> Sounds like the PJ is in the HDMI handshake phase. The screen goes blank when it happens, and remote controls are not responding. How long did you wait before unplugging the cable?
> With my 25' cable (also connected to a Denon), it can take up to 10 seconds for the handshake to resolve. Maybe your cable makes the process even slower.
> EDIT : Try also to reduce the HDMI bandwidth (ex : use 4:2:2 instead of 4:4:4).


I leave the cable plugged in for several minutes before giving up and unplugging. How/where do I reduce the HDMI bandwidth?

Thank you.


----------



## Medality

nel5150 said:


> Yeah, I placed the Denon next to the projector and tested a short cheap HDMI cable, and that worked just fine.
> 
> I do have conduit so I am able to run a new cable if need be. Does anyone have any experience with long HDMI runs from a Denon receiver to an Epson 6050/5050 and can provide a cable recommendation?


I've got this one (25'). It works great, and I even have HDMI-CEC enabled! Works like a charm on the 5050, better than with my TV. Powering on my Pany player turns the Denon and the PJ. And when I turn off the PJ, it turns off the rest.


----------



## fredworld

nel5150 said:


> Redmere
> Yeah, I placed the Denon next to the projector and tested a short cheap HDMI cable, and that worked just fine.
> 
> I do have conduit so I am able to run a new cable if need be. Does anyone have any experience with long HDMI runs from a Denon receiver to an Epson 6050/5050 and can provide a cable recommendation?


Many on this Forum like the *Blue Jeans Cables*.
I've many different lengths of HDMI certified cables from *My Cable Mar*t. I'm currently using a *35' length of Redmere* from them and I've also used a *49' length of Titan*. Both work flawlessly in my system. Their customer service is very good with timely response times on questions about cable usage and selection.
BTW, my Marantz is basically on the same platform as Denon's.


----------



## Medality

nel5150 said:


> I leave the cable plugged in for several minutes before giving up and unplugging. How/where do I reduce the HDMI bandwidth?
> 
> Thank you.


It depends on your player. The Panasonic I have gives me the option. Look for Color Mode in the settings.
But ideally you should have a cable that's able to use the full 18 Gbps bandwidth of HDMI 2.0 .


----------



## nel5150

Medality said:


> It depends on your player. The Panasonic I have gives me the option. Look for Color Mode in the settings.
> But ideally you should have a cable that's able to use the full 18 Gbps bandwidth of HDMI 2.0 .


No player in the mix. This the handshake between the Denon and the Epson.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Many on this Forum like the *Blue Jeans Cables*.
> I've many different lengths of HDMI certified cables from *My Cable Mar*t. I'm currently using a *35' length of Redmere* from them and I've also used a *49' length of Titan*. Both work flawlessly in my system. Their customer service is very good with timely response times on questions about cable usage and selection.
> BTW, my Marantz is basically on the same platform as Denon's.


+1 for Blue Jeans active cable. I'm using a 35' with a Denon x4300 and the Epson 5050. Works flawlessly. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## nel5150

biglen said:


> +1 for Blue Jeans active cable. I'm using a 35' with a Denon x4300 and the Epson 5050. Works flawlessly.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thank you. Which one? The BJC Series-3 or the BJC Series-1?


----------



## biglen

nel5150 said:


> Thank you. Which one? The BJC Series-3 or the BJC Series-1?


Series -3A active.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DrJazz

nel5150 said:


> Anyone know what's going on here? I am hoping it's the cable and not the projector or receiver. I thought I was buying a very good cable in order to avoid any issues due to the 40 foot run, and here I am on day one with cable issues on a cable that I cannot return as it was purchased months ago..


Do you have another display device connected to your Denon by any chance? Like maybe a TV? I had this exact same problem with my Anthem processor and apparently it's a common problem with dual hdmi outputs on receivers/processors and using active fiber cables. I didn't resolve my problem, unfortunately, but you might find some useful suggestions in this thread: Problem with optical HDMI cable and JVC X5900


----------



## nel5150

DrJazz said:


> Do you have another display device connected to your Denon by any chance? Like maybe a TV? I had this exact same problem with my Anthem processor and apparently it's a common problem with dual hdmi outputs on receivers/processors and using active fiber cables. I didn't resolve my problem, unfortunately, but you might find some useful suggestions in this thread: Problem with optical HDMI cable and JVC X5900


I ended up getting an Amazon Basics HDMI cable (the only cable available for same day delivery) as well as the Blue Jeans cable coming in a couple days. Just received the Amazon cable and everything is working great.

Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions!


----------



## spiceygas

Random question: What's the typical lifecycle of a product like the Epson 5050ub?

I'm thinking about buying one, but notice that it's already a 2-year old model. If I bought it today and they announced a newer replacement model next month for the 2021 holiday season, I'd be pretty annoyed. But if projector product lifecycles are long enough that it's unlikely to get a new model for another year then that wouldn't bother me at all.


----------



## PixelPusher15

spiceygas said:


> Random question: What's the typical lifecycle of a product like the Epson 5050ub?
> 
> I'm thinking about buying one, but notice that it's already a 2-year old model. If I bought it today and they announced a newer replacement model next month for the 2021 holiday season, I'd be pretty annoyed. But if projector product lifecycles are long enough that it's unlikely to get a new model for another year then that wouldn't bother me at all.


Here's the historical life cycle of the 50x0 lineup since the 5010. Three years might be the norm now but it's also possible that COVID has delayed things and something may have been planned and delayed. Epson isn't going to CEDIA this year but if you look at their release dates they don't lineup with CEDIA anyway which is in September each year.

5010UB: Dec 2011
5020UB: Nov 2012
5030UB: Oct 2013
5040UB: Aug 2016
5050UB: Apr 2019


----------



## Luminated67

DrJazz said:


> Do you have another display device connected to your Denon by any chance? Like maybe a TV? I had this exact same problem with my Anthem processor and apparently it's a common problem with dual hdmi outputs on receivers/processors and using active fiber cables. I didn't resolve my problem, unfortunately, but you might find some useful suggestions in this thread: Problem with optical HDMI cable and JVC X5900


That's a very valid point and an issue I have heard about but always forget about because I only have a dedicated room for the projector and not dual purpose.


----------



## rekbones

PixelPusher15 said:


> Here's the historical life cycle of the 50x0 lineup since the 5010. Three years might be the norm now but it's also possible that COVID has delayed things and something may have been planned and delayed. Epson isn't going to CEDIA this year but if you look at their release dates they don't lineup with CEDIA anyway which is in September each year.
> 
> 5010UB: Dec 2011
> 5020UB: Nov 2012
> 5030UB: Oct 2013
> 5040UB: Aug 2016
> 5050UB: Apr 2019


Another fact to consider is the upgrade from the 5010 to the 5020 and again to the 5030 where all very minor upgrades. The upgrade to the 5040 was a major overhaul and 5050 a minor upgrade. So if that trend continues the 5060 will be a minor upgrade.


----------



## Orwellflash

I found this tutorial on HDR choices and calibration helpful. 









Optimizing Your Projector for HDR


With the help of calibration experts David Abrams, Kris Deering, and Kevin Miller, Scott Wilkinson takes a look at how to get the best HDR picture out of your projector.



www.projectorcentral.com


----------



## biglen

Orwellflash said:


> I found this tutorial on HDR choices and calibration helpful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optimizing Your Projector for HDR
> 
> 
> With the help of calibration experts David Abrams, Kris Deering, and Kevin Miller, Scott Wilkinson takes a look at how to get the best HDR picture out of your projector.
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorcentral.com


Kevin Miller calibrated my 5050. He's a great guy, and explained everything he was doing during the calibration. I highly recommend him to anyone considering a calibration. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Porknz

Had a 16gb thumb drive show up from amazon today and I want to update the firmware on my 5050ub. It is running on whatever version it came with, and I know I have read throughout the thread that the firmware updates are noticeable. I also know that messing with firmware can brick a device. Any solid tutorials or advice etc. out there? Is the firmware any easier to find that it used to be? What is the current version to update to?

Thanks!


----------



## Porknz

biglen said:


> Kevin Miller calibrated my 5050. He's a great guy, and explained everything he was doing during the calibration. I highly recommend him to anyone considering a calibration.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I haven't had someone calibrate my 5050ub. Worth it? How do you find someone good who will let you watch and tell you what the are doing while they do it? What should it cost?

Thanks!


----------



## biglen

Porknz said:


> I haven't had someone calibrate my 5050ub. Worth it? How do you find someone good who will let you watch and tell you what the are doing while they do it? What should it cost?
> 
> Thanks!


He lets you watch because he's using a $10k meter to calibrate the projector. I don't think he's worried about people going out and buying one. I definitely think it was worth the $500 he charged. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Porknz said:


> Had a 16gb thumb drive show up from amazon today and I want to update the firmware on my 5050ub. It is running on whatever version it came with, and I know I have read throughout the thread that the firmware updates are noticeable. I also know that messing with firmware can brick a device. Any solid tutorials or advice etc. out there? Is the firmware any easier to find that it used to be? What is the current version to update to?
> 
> Thanks!


The latest FW 1.04 only effects HDMI 1. HDMI 2 will remain 1.03. FW 1.04 is available through* this Epson link*.
For some installation tips see *this link*.


----------



## Porknz

fredworld said:


> The latest FW 1.04 only effects HDMI 1. HDMI 2 will remain 1.03. FW 1.04 is available through* this Epson link*.
> For some installation tips see *this link*.


First time doing this, so need the 'for dummies' version. Is the only part before this, downloading the updated firmware to my new 16b otherwise empty thumb drive? I don't see any directions on how to update the firmware on the epson sight, but I'd love if there was a step by step for dummies with picture type of thing? I just did that with updating my nav system in my car.


----------



## Porknz

Porknz said:


> First time doing this, so need the 'for dummies' version. Is the only part before this, downloading the updated firmware to my new 16b otherwise empty thumb drive? I don't see any directions on how to update the firmware on the epson sight, but I'd love if there was a step by step for dummies with picture type of thing? I just did that with updating my nav system in my car.





https://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530500en.pdf



Does this work for the 5050ub?

Thanks.


----------



## fredworld

Porknz said:


> https://files.support.epson.com/docid/other/412530500en.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Does this work for the 5050ub?
> 
> Thanks.


Yes, and as I linked earlier,
Be sure you downloaded the update onto a FAT32 formatted USB that's empty of anything but the FW.
Then,
1. Unplug the projector from the power source.
2. Insert the USB to USB port-A
3. Hold down the Power button then connect the power cord while still holding down the projector's Power button.
4. Release the Power button as soon as all the indicator lights come on (update mode). 
When the update finishes in about 75 seconds the projector will turn off. 
.


----------



## Porknz

Seems to have worked! One of the improvements I remember seeing was that graphics like the ticker on ESPN look much better after 1.00. Anything else you have noticed in the firmware updates that I should notice going from 1.00 to 1.04?

Thanks as always friends.


----------



## biglen

These last posts about upgrading to 1.04, got me curious. I've been on 1.03 since it was released, because I've always used HDMI 2, since I had a weird problem with the colors when using HDMI 1. I figured maybe 1.04 would fix the issue, so I updated to 1.04, and tried HDMI 1. Everything seems to be great now, except when I play my 4k demos, I get sound right away, but I don't get video for about 6 or 7 seconds. I never had that issue using HDMI 2, so I'm wondering what would cause that? Can anyone think of a setting I have on HDMI 1, that would cause a video delay, that I'm not getting using HDMI 2?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> These last posts about upgrading to 1.04, got me curious. I've been on 1.03 since it was released, because I've always used HDMI 2, since I had a weird problem with the colors when using HDMI 1. I figured maybe 1.04 would fix the issue, so I updated to 1.04, and tried HDMI 1. Everything seems to be great now, except when I play my 4k demos, I get sound right away, but I don't get video for about 6 or 7 seconds. I never had that issue using HDMI 2, so I'm wondering what would cause that? Can anyone think of a setting I have on HDMI 1, that would cause a video delay, that I'm not getting using HDMI 2?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I get the same. I presumed it's a handshake issue. Haven't tried HDMI 2 since upgrading the FW though.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> I get the same. I presumed it's a handshake issue. Haven't tried HDMI 2 since upgrading the FW though.


I'm not sure if it's a handshake issue or not. I can get rid of the problem by using HDMI 2, and MadVR. Just using HDMI 2 doesn't get rid of the problem though. In MadVR, I select this display has been calibrated with BT.709, instead of BT.2020/report BT.2020 to dispaly. I've never noticed a difference in PQ between the two options, so I leave it on BT.709, and the audio and video start at the same time. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

A black screen as the projector switches colorspace (SDR to HDR, BT.709 to BT.2020) or refresh rate (60 to 24 or 24 to 60) is normal.

- Jason


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> A black screen as the projector switches colorspace (SDR to HDR, BT.709 to BT.2020) or refresh rate (60 to 24 or 24 to 60) is normal.
> 
> - Jason


Well, 1.04 definitely did something to mess things up for me. Like I said earlier, I was able to eliminate the black screen by setting MadVR to BT.709 using HDMI 2. Now, after the update, I'm getting the black screen using MadVR and HDMI 2. I know they said 1.04 doesn't do anything to HDMI 2, so it must have changed something in the overall projector itself. I should have stayed on 1.03. Lesson learned, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.....

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Well, 1.04 definitely did something to mess things up for me. Like I said earlier, I was able to eliminate the black screen by setting MadVR to BT.709 using HDMI 2. Now, after the update, I'm getting the black screen using MadVR and HDMI 2. I know they said 1.04 doesn't do anything to HDMI 2, so it must have changed something in the overall projector itself. I should have stayed on 1.03. Lesson learned, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.....
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Maybe Epson can advise? 
Although I haven't tried it, I would think you could reinstall 1.03 if you still have it on a drive.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Maybe Epson can advise?
> Although I haven't tried it, I would think you could reinstall 1.03 if you still have it on a drive.


Sometimes reverting can brick devices. Make sure you ring Epson before trying @DaGamePimp


----------



## biglen

I think I remember reading in this thread, that you can't downgrade firmware on these projectors. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

PixelPusher15 said:


> Sometimes reverting can brick devices. Make sure you ring Epson before trying [B]@DaGamePimp[/B]


*?* I think that was meant for biglen.  

- Jason


----------



## PixelPusher15

DaGamePimp said:


> *?* I think that was meant for biglen.
> 
> - Jason


Uhh, whoops lol


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Well, 1.04 definitely did something to mess things up for me. Like I said earlier, I was able to eliminate the black screen by setting MadVR to BT.709 using HDMI 2. Now, after the update, I'm getting the black screen using MadVR and HDMI 2. I know they said 1.04 doesn't do anything to HDMI 2, so it must have changed something in the overall projector itself. I should have stayed on 1.03. Lesson learned, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.....
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Fwiw, I posted what Epson advised me about FW 1.04 *here*.


----------



## audiman

there are some refurbished 5050 available on the epson canadian site.


----------



## Jimmy2Shoes

Hey Folks,

Just wondering on the setting "Image Processing" and the difference between Fine and Fast?
I assume that it is for input lag but does anyone know the difference in lag between the two.
Also if I were to choose Fast, what image Processing would I be sacrificing?

Thanks,

Jim


----------



## DaGamePimp

Jimmy2Shoes said:


> Hey Folks,
> 
> Just wondering on the setting "Image Processing" and the difference between Fine and Fast?
> I assume that it is for input lag but does anyone know the difference in lag between the two.
> Also if I were to choose Fast, what image Processing would I be sacrificing?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jim


I have wanted to test that for myself and will be doing so soon with a Leo Bodnar 4K lag tester (waited months for these to be made available again and it arrived a couple weeks ago).

I plan to test [email protected] and [email protected] SDR & HDR (will trigger HDR via HDFury Integral).

- Jason


----------



## DaGamePimp

So it appears that FAST/FINE makes zero difference (as was reported when the 5050ub launched).

Epson 5050ub (v1.03) Input Lag:

*4K 60Hz* SDR/709 = *20.6ms* (Fast & Fine)

4K 60Hz HDR/2020 = 20.6ms (Fast & Fine)

*1080p 60Hz* SDR/709 = *26.9ms* (Fast & Fine)

1080p 60Hz HDR/2020 = 26.9ms (Fast & Fine)

So basically all 4K 60Hz is the same and all 1080p 60Hz is the same regardless of the mode/signal (I did not test B&W Cinema ).

- Jason


----------



## PixelPusher15

DaGamePimp said:


> So it appears that FAST/FINE makes zero difference (as was reported when the 5050ub launched).
> 
> Epson 5050ub (v1.03) Input Lag:
> 
> *4K 60Hz* SDR/709 = *20.6ms* (Fast & Fine)
> 
> 4K 60Hz HDR/2020 = 20.6ms (Fast & Fine)
> 
> *1080p 60Hz* SDR/709 = *26.9ms* (Fast & Fine)
> 
> 1080p 60Hz HDR/2020 = 26.9ms (Fast & Fine)
> 
> So basically all 4K 60Hz is the same and all 1080p 60Hz is the same regardless of the mode/signal (I did not test B&W Cinema ).
> 
> - Jason


Have you, or anyone else noticed a visual difference in quality between the two? I haven’t been able to


----------



## audiman

Anyone had success with auto calibration + calman for the 5050ub?


----------



## dodgeboy1

I bought my 5050UB in February of 2021, which is before firmware v1.04 was released. However, looking at the version screen would suggest I am already running version 1.04. Am I misreading the version from this screen? I assume I should be looking at "Main?"


----------



## fredworld

OTE="dodgeboy1, post: 60940497, member: 8361192"]
I bought my 5050UB in February of 2021, which is before firmware v1.04 was released. However, looking at the version screen would suggest I am already running version 1.04. Am I misreading the version from this screen? I assume I should be looking at "Main?"

View attachment 3163321

[/QUOTE]
Yes, you are reading the information correctly.


----------



## Jimmy2Shoes

DaGamePimp said:


> So it appears that FAST/FINE makes zero difference (as was reported when the 5050ub launched).
> 
> Epson 5050ub (v1.03) Input Lag:
> 
> *4K 60Hz* SDR/709 = *20.6ms* (Fast & Fine)
> 
> 4K 60Hz HDR/2020 = 20.6ms (Fast & Fine)
> 
> *1080p 60Hz* SDR/709 = *26.9ms* (Fast & Fine)
> 
> 1080p 60Hz HDR/2020 = 26.9ms (Fast & Fine)
> 
> So basically all 4K 60Hz is the same and all 1080p 60Hz is the same regardless of the mode/signal (I did not test B&W Cinema ).
> 
> - Jason


Great stuff buddy and it feels to me to be both the same in terms of lag when using it on PC. Oddly it doesn't quite feel like 20.6ms but maybe I am so used to 6.6ms on my 65" C9 that the 10ms is a pretty big difference. I suppose screen size plays a role here too.

@PixelPusher15 
I have been running Fast for two weeks and now Fine in the last few days. To me they look both the same but I will most likely use Fine from now on.

Jim


----------



## DaGamePimp

PixelPusher15 said:


> Have you, or anyone else noticed a visual difference in quality between the two? I haven’t been able to


I have not done any extensive comparisons but it should be pretty straight forward to test with some patterns. 

Nothing by eye, but then the main aspect I was checking was the feel and not the look. 

I'll toss up some patterns the next time I fire up the 5050ub.

- Jason


----------



## thanos999

Hello,

I have an epson 6050/tw9400 that iv used for 30 hours.

It has a problem - 30% of the left side of the projection looks a bit darker . I would say something like 5% darker than the right side. It feels like the the right side is a bit more powerfull in terms of light output.

I tried the color uniformaty settings but it doesnt help, and also projecting on a diffrent wall/screen. Also playing with lens shift doesnt help.

Any suggestions? Maybe it will go away after more hours?

*it is hard to understand from the photo.


----------



## DavidK442

thanos999 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have an epson 6050/tw9400 that iv used for 30 hours.
> 
> It has a problem - 30% of the left side of the projection looks a bit darker . I would say something like 5% darker than the right side. It feels like the the right side is a bit more powerfull in terms of light output.
> 
> I tried the color uniformaty settings but it doesnt help, and also projecting on a diffrent wall/screen. Also playing with lens shift doesnt help.
> 
> Any suggestions? Maybe it will go away after more hours?
> 
> *it is hard to understand from the photo.


From the picture it looks like the right side is a bit darker as well. You aren’t using an ambient light rejecting screen are you?


----------



## fredworld

DavidK442 said:


> From the picture it looks like the right side is a bit darker as well. You aren’t using an ambient light rejecting screen are you?





thanos999 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have an epson 6050/tw9400 that iv used for 30 hours.
> 
> It has a problem - 30% of the left side of the projection looks a bit darker . I would say something like 5% darker than the right side. It feels like the the right side is a bit more powerfull in terms of light output.
> 
> I tried the color uniformaty settings but it doesnt help, and also projecting on a diffrent wall/screen. Also playing with lens shift doesnt help.
> 
> Any suggestions? Maybe it will go away after more hours?
> 
> *it is hard to understand from the photo.
> View attachment 3165114


If your 6050 came with a spare lamp like they do in the USA, then try the spare to see if it's the same.
Is the lens cover completely open?
What source are you using to project the white image?
What gain is your screen?


----------



## Luminated67

thanos999 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have an epson 6050/tw9400 that iv used for 30 hours.
> 
> It has a problem - 30% of the left side of the projection looks a bit darker . I would say something like 5% darker than the right side. It feels like the the right side is a bit more powerfull in terms of light output.
> 
> I tried the color uniformaty settings but it doesnt help, and also projecting on a diffrent wall/screen. Also playing with lens shift doesnt help.
> 
> Any suggestions? Maybe it will go away after more hours?
> 
> *it is hard to understand from the photo.
> View attachment 3165114


This looks like you are using an ALR screen and are getting a hot spot in the middle. What's the screen size and what's the distance from the projector lens to the screen?


----------



## Im a Cheapskate

Is the Cinema 5050 better than the cinema 4000? I picked up a 4000 and like it but curious if the 5050 is better and if so by how much.


----------



## rekbones

Im a Cheapskate said:


> Is the Cinema 5050 better than the cinema 4000? I picked up a 4000 and like it but curious if the 5050 is better and if so by how much.


Of course it's better but by how much is a relative term. It has more then double the native contrast, full 18Gb HDMI vs 10Gb for the 4000 and much better HDR tone mapping. If your watching 24hz content in a white reflective room and/or ambient light where contrast doesn't count as much then the 5050 wouldn't be much of an improvement. On the other hand in a dedicated light controlled non reflective room the 5050 would look considerably better.


----------



## Nightlord

Joining the club with the Euro-labeled TW9400.


----------



## Pigskin Floyd

RRF said:


> Well Good news...I just spent 45 mins. on the phone with Epson's corporate office, and they assured me Eastporters is an authorized reseller.


I can assure you that Eastporters is NOT an authorized Epson retailer.

Authorized Home Projector Dealers | Epson Canada


----------



## Im a Cheapskate

rekbones said:


> Of course it's better but by how much is a relative term. It has more then double the native contrast, full 18Gb HDMI vs 10Gb for the 4000 and much better HDR tone mapping. If your watching 24hz content in a white reflective room and/or ambient light where contrast doesn't count as much then the 5050 wouldn't be much of an improvement. On the other hand in a dedicated light controlled non reflective room the 5050 would look considerably better.


Thank you. Im always shooting for the best quality but I am money budget minded. I am going to try to see a demo and if I like what I see I will be on the hunt for the best price.
Thank you.


----------



## mpls1981

I have a question for 5050ub owners. I owned the 5030ub a few years ago and loved that you could press the 3D button on the remote and it would turn off 3D. The 3D Blu-ray disc would still play at regular 1080p. This was great for MCU movies with the expanding ratio. My current setup doesn't allow that. If I turn off 3D, it turns off the disc and no combo of settings on the projector or player changes that.

With the 5050ub, does that ability still work? I see that the remote is the same so it does appear to be there. Secondly (if it does still work), does the image upconvert to 2160p when the 3D is turned off like a regular Blu-ray does or does it remain as a 1080p image?

Thank you


----------



## DigitalMovs

Is there a safe way to clean the 5050UB lens(es)? I purchased a refurbished unit from Epson and it seems to be collecting a lot of dust inside the lenses over time. I’m afraid this is going to get worse if I can’t stop it by tightening something or being able to open it up and blow that stuff out.


----------



## fredworld

DigitalMovs said:


> Is there a safe way to clean the 5050UB lens(es)? I purchased a refurbished unit from Epson and it seems to be collecting a lot of dust inside the lenses over time. I’m afraid this is going to get worse if I can’t stop it by tightening something or being able to open it up and blow that stuff out.
> View attachment 3167120


I use the same practice as with my telescopes. Manual blower bulb. If the image isn't being effected LEAVE IT ALONE !!!!


----------



## DavidK442

Pigskin Floyd said:


> I can assure you that Eastporters is NOT an authorized Epson retailer.
> 
> Authorized Home Projector Dealers | Epson Canada


Epson Canada says where you shouldn’t buy from but not where you should. No price or list of authorized dealers on their website, just a phone number. It seems like many Canadians buy from Eastporters anyway. I see Visions Electronics lists the 5050ub on line, always about $500 more than Eastporters. Are they authorized? Any other Canadian sources?


----------



## routlaw

DigitalMovs said:


> Is there a safe way to clean the 5050UB lens(es)? I purchased a refurbished unit from Epson and it seems to be collecting a lot of dust inside the lenses over time. I’m afraid this is going to get worse if I can’t stop it by tightening something or being able to open it up and blow that stuff out.
> View attachment 3167120


I just received one of these myself yesterday and likewise my lens was fairly dusty too. You can easily manually slide the dust cover to the side in order to gain clear access. While Epson warns against using compressed air I have been doing this with my very expensive camera lenses for years as well as the digital sensors on the cameras. If you go this route do NOT shake the can before blowing and do not use full force. The triggers on the compressed air cans are very controllable allowing one to blow with gentle but consistent air pressure.

the area around my lens, that being the cavity had some dust as well and it was important evacuate that as much as the lens itself. After blowing off the lens I used a very fine micro cloth like the ones you might use to clean reading glasses and also camera lenses to gently wipe the remainder of any dust. Important to note the area general seems to be highly charged with static electricity thus using a high quality lens cleaning solution will to mitigate much of this. If you have a de-staticiser this would help as well. Hope this helps just don’t be scared stiff with fear of damaging but simply use good common sense care and go slow be careful.


----------



## DigitalMovs

routlaw said:


> I just received one of these myself yesterday and likewise my lens was fairly dusty too. You can easily manually slide the dust cover to the side in order to gain clear access. While Epson warns against using compressed air I have been doing this with my very expensive camera lenses for years as well as the digital sensors on the cameras. If you go this route do NOT shake the can before blowing and do not use full force. The triggers on the compressed air cans are very controllable allowing one to blow with gentle but consistent air pressure.
> 
> the area around my lens, that being the cavity had some dust as well and it was important evacuate that as much as the lens itself. After blowing off the lens I used a very fine micro cloth like the ones you might use to clean reading glasses and also camera lenses to gently wipe the remainder of any dust. Important to note the area general seems to be highly charged with static electricity thus using a high quality lens cleaning solution will to mitigate much of this. If you have a de-staticiser this would help as well. Hope this helps just don’t be scared stiff with fear of damaging but simply use good common sense care and go slow be careful.


I'm not as adept at cleaning lenses, so I will cautiously use my touch-free Giottos Air Rocket for now. Admittedly it hasn't done much good, since the dust doesn't seem to be just on the surface but on lenses preceding the outer-most lens.


----------



## rekbones

DigitalMovs said:


> I'm not as adept at cleaning lenses, so I will cautiously use my touch-free Giottos Air Rocket for now. Admittedly it hasn't done much good, since the dust doesn't seem to be just on the surface but on lenses preceding the outer-most lens.


The dust is common and virtually has no effect on the image so don't worry about it.


----------



## xplorar

rekbones said:


> The dust is common and virtually has no effect on the image so don't worry about it.


This!
All the dust that you see on surface gets focused out in projected screen and has virtually no effect on image quality at all.
That said, I too sometimes brush it away lightly from lens using a clean microfiber cloth (maybe every 3-4 months or so) while cleaning up the projector in general. As I said above, it doesn't improves image quality in any way


----------



## dtb84

beavnuts said:


> So I purchased one of these in April and I actually received it at the end of April. It replaced a BENQ W1070 and I have been loving it so far. Unfortunately, something happened yesterday and I only have 16 lamp hours on the unit. I have this large blue band running down the middle of the screen. I spoke to Epson and they are going to replace it with a refurb unit and while it may be too late, I am curious if I am getting screwed over. After searching for my problem around the internets, it seemed to affect older units. So it surprising that it happened with a unit that is less than three months old and with the small amount of lamp hours.


Hey there, I joined AVS forum to message you about this but it won’t let me PM you for some reason. Can you message me so I can reply? Thanks


----------



## Dehrig Richard

DavidK442 said:


> Epson Canada says where you shouldn’t buy from but not where you should. No price or list of authorized dealers on their website, just a phone number. It seems like many Canadians buy from Eastporters anyway. I see Visions Electronics lists the 5050ub on line, always about $500 more than Eastporters. Are they authorized? Any other Canadian sources?


I purchased mine from Visions without a problem. They wouldn’t price match Eastporters as they wouldn’t recognize them as an authorized seller.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

beavnuts said:


> So I purchased one of these in April and I actually received it at the end of April. It replaced a BENQ W1070 and I have been loving it so far. Unfortunately, something happened yesterday and I only have 16 lamp hours on the unit. I have this large blue band running down the middle of the screen. I spoke to Epson and they are going to replace it with a refurb unit and while it may be too late, I am curious if I am getting screwed over. After searching for my problem around the internets, it seemed to affect older units. So it surprising that it happened with a unit that is less than three months old and with the small amount of lamp hours.


Not sure if the same in your country as mine but here in the UK Epson only offer a direct replacement of new with new within the first 30 days, beyond this point it's either repaired or replaced with a refurbed unit, the number of hours of use isn't important.


----------



## Enchy

Been watching some darker movies lately and even in my light controlled room at night, I was kinda disappointed in the black levels. Started messing around with the manual iris setting and lowered it to -12 to watch Collateral last night and I was really impressed with the difference. I'll probably leave it on 0 for most content, but anything with lots of dark scenes, cranking that iris down seems like it makes a big improvement.


----------



## Medality

Enchy said:


> Been watching some darker movies lately and even in my light controlled room at night, I was kinda disappointed in the black levels. Started messing around with the manual iris setting and lowered it to -12 to watch Collateral last night and I was really impressed with the difference. I'll probably leave it on 0 for most content, but anything with lots of dark scenes, cranking that iris down seems like it makes a big improvement.


Fos SDR, I have the manual iris set to -8 (anything higher seems too bright in a dark room). Coupled with the auto iris, this gives very satisfying blacks!
For HDR, it's set to 0 as the color filter is already giving a darker image.


----------



## Enchy

Interesting. I was watching those movies in HDR (Dolby Vision via a UHDBD and the HDFury mitm device) and clamping down the iris didn't seem to bring the brightness down noticeably, but they were very dark movies with only small highlights so the contrast might have been deceiving me. Haven't messed with it enough though to say anything definitive.


----------



## Werewolf79

Enchy said:


> Been watching some darker movies lately and even in my light controlled room at night, I was kinda disappointed in the black levels. Started messing around with the manual iris setting and lowered it to -12 to watch Collateral last night and I was really impressed with the difference. I'll probably leave it on 0 for most content, but anything with lots of dark scenes, cranking that iris down seems like it makes a big improvement.


The manual iris controls light and has no effect on black levels, I have a meter and have measured all this, the dynamic iris has a good effect on black levels and I use it.


----------



## Enchy

Wouldn't less light mean lower black levels. Not that I don't believe you, but that doesn't match my (admittedly subjective) experience


----------



## Werewolf79

Enchy said:


> Wouldn't less light mean lower black levels


No, It is for lowering light levels, it has no effect on black levels at all, I thought it would but I have measured it, no difference at -10 or -16 or whatever, so the answer is no, only the dynamic iris lowers the black floor.


----------



## reechings

Man really tempted to finally pull the trigger but not having dynamic tone mapping is only thing holding me back. Are you guys finding you have to play with the HDR slider a lot?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

reechings said:


> Man really tempted to finally pull the trigger but not having dynamic tone mapping is only thing holding me back. Are you guys finding you have to play with the HDR slider a lot?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


I found a setting I like and haven't touched it since.


----------



## fredworld

reechings said:


> Man really tempted to finally pull the trigger but not having dynamic tone mapping is only thing holding me back. Are you guys finding you have to play with the HDR slider a lot?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Nope. Barely touch it. Except for Star Wars Solo where it needed a 2 notch bump.


----------



## Enchy

reechings said:


> Man really tempted to finally pull the trigger but not having dynamic tone mapping is only thing holding me back. Are you guys finding you have to play with the HDR slider a lot?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


I would recommend getting one of the Hdfury EDID cheaters so you can watch Dolby Vision content. That was probably the best decision I made building out my theater.


----------



## reechings

Enchy said:


> I found a setting I like and haven't touched it since.


That's great to hear, so playing HDR content you're finding the blacks are still good but highlights pop still?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

Enchy said:


> I would recommend getting one of the Hdfury EDID cheaters so you can watch Dolby Vision content. That was probably the best decision I made building out my theater.


So that DV hack is worth it? Which hdfury model do you use?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

reechings said:


> So that DV hack is worth it? Which hdfury model do you use?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


I find it to be very worth it. I did some A-B testing and to my eye the Dolby Vision looked much better than vanilla HDR10. Tested using both my Roku Ultra and a Dolby Vision UHD Blu Ray (don't remember which movie I used). I have an Integral 2, which is the same as the Vertex except it doesn't have a display on the device. It's tucked behind my AVR so I wouldn't be able to use the display anyway.

The only annoying thing is having to manually enable HDR mode when watching Dolby Vision content, but I made a macro for it on my Harmony remote so the process is less painful now. HDMI handshakes take longer now as well but I just deal with it.


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> Man really tempted to finally pull the trigger but not having dynamic tone mapping is only thing holding me back. Are you guys finding you have to play with the HDR slider a lot?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


I use MadVR, for dynamic tone mapping. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> I use MadVR, for dynamic tone mapping.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


But that will only work with local media on PC right?

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

reechings said:


> But that will only work with local media on PC right?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Meaning does it work with streaming services?No, but I believe there is a workaround for Netflix though. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

biglen said:


> Meaning does it work with streaming services?No, but I believe there is a workaround for Netflix though.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yeah I'm currently using an apple tv for streaming apps and use Plex to play local content off my PC. I would be planning to do the same thing but with a 4K apple tv or shield with the 5050 I think. I guess I could try to set up madvr for files on my PC but it has been nice to get away from having to have my current projector set up as more of a monitor.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Werewolf79 said:


> No, It is for lowering light levels, it has no effect on black levels at all, I thought it would but I have measured it, no difference at -10 or -16 or whatever, so the answer is no, only the dynamic iris lowers the black floor.


I’ve measured the opposite. I did notice that below about -10 that contrast wasn’t improved and instead everything just got dimmer. But for my particular 5050 I saw a contrast bump when closing down the iris. Were you measuring off the screen or from the lens? If you’re measuring off the screen then things can get hairy depending on your room.


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> I’ve measured the opposite. I did notice that below about -10 that contrast wasn’t improved and instead everything just got dimmer. But for my particular 5050 I saw a contrast bump when closing down the iris. Were you measuring off the screen or from the lens? If you’re measuring off the screen then things can get hairy depending on your room.


I knew I wasn't crazy!


----------



## Terence

reechings said:


> Man really tempted to finally pull the trigger but not having dynamic tone mapping is only thing holding me back. Are you guys finding you have to play with the HDR slider a lot?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


I’m using a Lumagen RP 4242-18G to handle DTM for my Panny 820 & ATV 4K, also NLS (2.35:1 screen) and other features. I love this magical box!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## reechings

Terence said:


> I’m using a Lumagen RP 4242-18G to handle DTM for my Panny 820 & ATV 4K, also NLS (2.35:1 screen) and other features. I love this magical box!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hahaha yeah that costs a lot more than the projector though. 

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## Hawkmarket

Terence said:


> I’m using a Lumagen RP 4242-18G to handle DTM for my Panny 820 & ATV 4K, also NLS (2.35:1 screen) and other features. I love this magical box!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I've toyed with the idea of the Lumagen paired with my 5050 for the DTM and future use as I change projectors. I've got a 16:9 screen so no real use for aspect changing features etc. Did you find the picture quality change pretty noticeable with the Lumagen with its DTM using the Epson? I've seen very few before and after pics so I'm left with subjective descriptions and I'll take all I can get.


----------



## rcoe

Enchy said:


> I find it to be very worth it. I did some A-B testing and to my eye the Dolby Vision looked much better than vanilla HDR10. Tested using both my Roku Ultra and a Dolby Vision UHD Blu Ray (don't remember which movie I used). I have an Integral 2, which is the same as the Vertex except it doesn't have a display on the device. It's tucked behind my AVR so I wouldn't be able to use the display anyway.
> 
> The only annoying thing is having to manually enable HDR mode when watching Dolby Vision content, but I made a macro for it on my Harmony remote so the process is less painful now. HDMI handshakes take longer now as well but I just deal with it.


I am going to be going this route soon, except I will be using with my Shield for playback with local files.

Could you please post your settings for the integral2.

Thanks


----------



## Enchy

rcoe said:


> I am going to be going this route soon, except I will be using with my Shield for playback with local files.
> 
> Could you please post your settings for the integral2.
> 
> Thanks


I setup using the instructions from this post: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...

I'm using EDID option 4, I believe. I have an HTPC in my component rack so I am able to control the device while it's connected. I highly recommend this if you have the capability.


----------



## rcoe

Enchy said:


> I setup using the instructions from this post: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> I'm using EDID option 4, I believe. I have an HTPC in my component rack so I am able to control the device while it's connected. I highly recommend this if you have the capability.



Thanks I might just go with the vertex2 as I believe I can connect to that over my network and it also should be able to flag the projector to switch to HDR when needed.


----------



## Enchy

rcoe said:


> Thanks I might just go with the vertex2 as I believe I can connect to that over my network and it also should be able to flag the projector to switch to HDR when needed.


Yeah I believe the Vertex2 removes the need to manually set the projector to HDR mode. Manually switching is inconvenient but I have a Harmony macro for it so it's easy to work around. I think I paid like $150 for my Integral2 so it was worth the cost savings to me.


----------



## DaGamePimp

The Vertex 2 does auto-switch the PJ into HDR mode.  

- Jason


----------



## garnuts

Enchy said:


> Yeah I believe the Vertex2 removes the need to manually set the projector to HDR mode. Manually switching is inconvenient but I have a Harmony macro for it so it's easy to work around. I think I paid like $150 for my Integral2 so it was worth the cost savings to me.


I was thinking of getting a 'renewed' Integral 2 for $179 to try the DV hack.

How do you manually set HDR mode? 

Since my 5050 automatically switches to HDR mode in normal use, I've never tried to manually set it. I'd be willing to accept a couple extra button presses to see if I notice much improvement in PQ, before going too far down this rabbit hole!


----------



## Enchy

garnuts said:


> I was thinking of getting a 'renewed' Integral 2 for $179 to try the DV hack.
> 
> How do you manually set HDR mode?
> 
> Since my 5050 automatically switches to HDR mode in normal use, I've never tried to manually set it. I'd be willing to accept a couple extra button presses to see if I notice much improvement in PQ, before going too far down this rabbit hole!


Click the HDR button on the remote, change "auto" to HDR10

Edit: only needed for Dolby Vision content. HDR10 content through the Integral2 will still switch automatically


----------



## garnuts

Thanks!

I have a Harmony One in my set-up, so I should be able to create a macro for that too.


----------



## Enchy

garnuts said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I have a Harmony One in my set-up, so I should be able to create a macro for that too.


These are my macros for switching HDR on and off. The 1s delays make it trigger more consistently.


http://imgur.com/a/DS3xEmY


----------



## garnuts

Enchy said:


> These are my macros for switching HDR on and off. The 1s delays make it trigger more consistently.


Thanks, I just ordered it. I know what I'll be doing this weekend


----------



## Terence

Hawkmarket said:


> I've toyed with the idea of the Lumagen paired with my 5050 for the DTM and future use as I change projectors. I've got a 16:9 screen so no real use for aspect changing features etc. Did you find the picture quality change pretty noticeable with the Lumagen with its DTM using the Epson? I've seen very few before and after pics so I'm left with subjective descriptions and I'll take all I can get.


The image is so CLEAN, sharper with 2D depth you can’t capture with a camera. Motion is smoother, the DTM for all HDR content via two sources (ATV 4K & Panny 820) phenomenal! Ito really is a Swiss Army knife of video processing. The Lumi will be in my system for years to come, I see it as an investment. Whatever new projector comes next it will enhance its performance. Dare I say it’s my favorite component right now. Last the owners passion and customer support is A+ when it comes to their product and it’s rare to see that dedication these days. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pewex

It's true that 5050UB software version v1.03 in 24hz does x3 shift?


----------



## Pewex

more and more people are talking about it and I'm curious if it's true


----------



## fredworld

Pewex said:


> more and more people are talking about it and I'm curious if it's true


Possibly not. See *this post*.


----------



## Pewex

I wonder what the @PixelPusher15 thinks about it. And whet he has heard about it


----------



## PixelPusher15

Pewex said:


> I wonder what the @PixelPusher15 thinks about it. And whet he has heard about it


Only murmurs. My 5050 came with the latest firmware, which I believe is 1.04 for HDMI 1. So even if there was a change, I never saw it.


----------



## DaGamePimp

There was a change with 1.03, as long as you are on 1.03 or 1.04 you can compare 4K 24Hz to 4K 60Hz and see that there appears to be an extra pixel @ 24Hz (vs 60Hz). It's much easier to detect if you are 1:1 pixel mapped via a PC.

Now is this actually x3 vs x2 shift, IDK, but something changed from the previous firmware, several of us noticed it after updating because the image appeared more detailed (and we then pixel peeped at the screen).

* If I had to take a guess I would say they may have tightened up the shift timings at 24Hz (I know it's odd, but it is there).

- Jason


----------



## Pewex

DaGamePimp said:


> There was a change with 1.03, as long as you are on 1.03 or 1.04 you can compare 4K 24Hz to 4K 60Hz and see that there appears to be an extra pixel @ 24Hz (vs 60Hz). It's much easier to detect if you are 1:1 pixel mapped via a PC.
> 
> Now is this actually x3 vs x2 shift, IDK, but something changed from the previous firmware, several of us noticed it after updating because the image appeared more detailed (and we then pixel peeped at the screen).
> 
> * If I had to take a guess I would say they may have tightened up the shift timings at 24Hz (I know it's odd, but it is there).
> 
> - Jason


So it's true. If the EPSON 5050UB switches x3
THIS sharpness is practically equal to 4K from DLP 0.47
Screen Door The effect is less visible at 24hz?


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> There was a change with 1.03, as long as you are on 1.03 or 1.04 you can compare 4K 24Hz to 4K 60Hz and see that there appears to be an extra pixel @ 24Hz (vs 60Hz). It's much easier to detect if you are 1:1 pixel mapped via a PC.
> 
> Now is this actually x3 vs x2 shift, IDK, but something changed from the previous firmware, several of us noticed it after updating because the image appeared more detailed (and we then pixel peeped at the screen).
> 
> * If I had to take a guess I would say they may have tightened up the shift timings at 24Hz (I know it's odd, but it is there).
> 
> - Jason


Thank you for this, Jason. They don’t believe me when I say it but think I’m talking out of my @ss. Lol


----------



## rollon1980

Pewex said:


> So it's true. If the EPSON 5050UB switches x3
> THIS sharpness is practically equal to 4K from DLP 0.47
> Screen Door The effect is less visible at 24hz?


Screen door effect is much less visible at 24p if at all. The pixel structure is very dense! 

The Epson has an advantage with pixel shifting as the pixels don’t overlap with 2x shift. With 3x they likely overlap a little but it looks great and definitely more detailed. 

We likely don’t agree on this with Jason but I recommend not using panel alignment as it cuts resolution in some of the chroma channels when not shifting by whole pixels. It negates some of the sharpness you get at 24Hz. That’s my experience on my unit - the green channel on mine is most affected.


----------



## biglen

I'm confused about the supposed 3X vs 2X talk. Are you guys saying 1.03 is better, or 1.04 ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## rollon1980

biglen said:


> I'm confused about the supposed 3X vs 2X talk. Are you guys saying 1.03 is better, or 1.04 ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Nope we are saying both firmware versions have it!


----------



## rollon1980

Guys, it is really not THAT hard. 

1. Make sure you’re on firmware 1.03 or later
2. Disable panel alignment if you have it on
3. Play 4K 60Hz broadcast or game - look at pixel structure. 
4. Then play a 24p 4K UHD blu ray and look at pixel structure again.


----------



## Pretorian

Maybe this is clear for everyone but I have noticed that my image seems very bright. I have not changed anything. It is just that it has been several months since I last calibrated the image. 
Do you calibrate often?


----------



## rollon1980

I calibrate every 300hrs. The gamma shifts / lifts in a way that can reduce image dimensionality.


----------



## Pretorian

rollon1980 said:


> I calibrate every 300hrs. The gamma shifts / lifts in a way that can reduce image dimensionality.


My main concern is that it feels so bright. Especially when there is a sky in the background. Instead of seeing clouds it is almost plain white. Is that what is called ”clipping”?


----------



## rollon1980

Pretorian said:


> My main concern is that it feels so bright. Especially when there is a sky in the background. Instead of seeing clouds it is almost plain white. Is that what is called ”clipping”?


Can be but with some HDR material clipping will always occur. Bright cinema has bad clipping on my unit unless contrast is lowered for example. 

Erm… try changing picture modes. Check your HDR slider. ;-) 

If it’s with SDR, lower lamp brightness, clamp iris. 

If you know how to calibrate, then do that. Even just checking brightness / contrast setting with a disk would work. You don’t need a colorimeter / spectrometer for that.

Maybe kids / wife / pets played with your remote? My cat used to push buttons / sit on remotes as a way to get attention. He actually turned the projector on once. ;-)


----------



## DaGamePimp

rollon1980 said:


> Thank you for this, Jason. They don’t believe me when I say it but think I’m talking out of my @ss. Lol


Yeah I know, I questioned it myself and spent a couple hours checking it to make sure, it's definitely there.  




rollon1980 said:


> Screen door effect is much less visible at 24p if at all. The pixel structure is very dense!
> 
> The Epson has an advantage with pixel shifting as the pixels don’t overlap with 2x shift. With 3x they likely overlap a little but it looks great and definitely more detailed.
> 
> *We likely don’t agree on this with Jason but I recommend not using panel alignment as it cuts resolution in some of the chroma channels when not shifting by whole pixels.* It negates some of the sharpness you get at 24Hz. That’s my experience on my unit - the green channel on mine is most affected.


Oh I agree with you, generally speaking, regarding panel alignment but it will vary unit to unit. I tested mine extensively, with various patterns (the old analog tracking/phase pattern was handy here), and could make it look worse (as you mentioned). I could also make it look better regarding color fringing without losing any resolution/detail (other than maybe at the outer most pixel row right at the edge of the screen).

- Jason


----------



## bungi43

Trying to dig through this thread (and the site), so I know I'm asking a question that's been answered, but can't seem to find the best place.

Looking for a good calibration setting (or sets of settings) for the 6050. Again, apologies for probably blindly missing.


----------



## rollon1980

bungi43 said:


> Trying to dig through this thread (and the site), so I know I'm asking a question that's been answered, but can't seem to find the best place.
> 
> Looking for a good calibration setting (or sets of settings) for the 6050. Again, apologies for probably blindly missing.











Epson TW9400 / TW8400 / UB5050 / UB6050 Tips and Tricks


I have owned the TW9400 / UB6050 for the last two years after owning about 10 JVCs. I got fed up with JVC’s quality control and awful support in Australia. Interestingly, support was great ba…




simplehomecinema.com





Posted bottom of the page but only for HDR. SDR is pretty great out of the box on Natural.


----------



## rollon1980

Ok, so this post is for those who are drooling over the new JVCs and want to feel better. 
1. Our projectors cost us 1/2 to 1/4 the cost of a JVC.
2. We can replace our lamps dirt cheap - their laser which is less bright than our lamps will just get less bright and will get to 50% brightness by 20 000 hours. Yuk 
3. The big benefit of laser is that it is polarised light, which usually means higher ANSI. Well, our projectors have polarisers that polarise the light from the lamp to achieve a higher ANSI than the lamp based JVCs. So they have caught up most likely. Well done! 
4. Yes, they have a massive benefit in sequential contrast (low light scenes) but our projector does clamp the iris and dims the lamp for low light scenes and it's pretty effective.
5. Cheap lamps
6. Cheap lamps
7. Cheap lamps 
8. Low input lag
9. Quick HDMI switching while they can make a coffee as they switch sources or frame-rates.

Ok, hope you all feel a bit better.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

rollon1980 said:


> Ok, so this post is for those who are drooling over the new JVCs and want to feel better.
> 1. Our projectors cost us 1/2 to 1/4 the cost of a JVC.
> 2. We can replace our lamps dirt cheap - their laser which is less bright than our lamps will just get less bright and will get to 50% brightness by 20 000 hours. Yuk
> 3. The big benefit of laser is that it is polarised light, which usually means higher ANSI. Well, our projectors have polarisers that polarise the light from the lamp to achieve a higher ANSI than the lamp based JVCs. So they have caught up most likely. Well done!
> 4. Yes, they have a massive benefit in sequential contrast (low light scenes) but our projector does clamp the iris and dims the lamp for low light scenes and it's pretty effective.
> 5. Cheap lamps
> 6. Cheap lamps
> 7. Cheap lamps
> 8. Low input lag
> 9. Quick HDMI switching while they can make a coffee as they switch sources or frame-rates.
> 
> Ok, hope you all feel a bit better.


Exactly why i bought Epson this time around, cheap lamps, i had sony before.. And it just so happens the 6050 is the best dang projector i have ever owned. For the price it cant be beat.


----------



## rollon1980

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Exactly why i bought Epson this time around, cheap lamps, i had sony before.. And it just so happens the 6050 is the best dang projector i have ever owned. For the price it cant be beat.


Totally agree. After the JVC announcement I went downstairs into the home theatre to watch Mortal Engines on UHD blu ray in Dolby Vision on the 6050 (9400 here) using my Dynamic calibration on a custom 130” CinemaScope CineGrey 3D screen. I’m sorry but this projector kicks ass and I can change lamps yearly or even 6 monthly to keep the brightness at max. No JVC minus the Z1 can reach this level of light output for HDR. The projector calibrates close to 2600-2800 lumens in dynamic picture mode. I don’t actually miss DTM with this level of light output. The Epson does mighty fine!


----------



## Orwellflash

Question on FW update
I am updating to FW 1.04. The epson file downloaded via mac is .bin Do I need to extract it on thumb drive before I use it for update? I guess that the projector will be able to read it as a "bin", but Epson doesn't say anything about it in directions.


----------



## rollon1980

Orwellflash said:


> Question on FW update
> I am updating to FW 1.04. The epson file downloaded via mac is .bin Do I need to extract it on thumb drive before I use it for update? I guess that the projector will be able to read it as a "bin", but Epson doesn't say anything about it in directions.


No extraction needed, just put it on a thumb drive and follow update process.
Drive needs to be formatted as FAT32. Also, the Epson is finicky with USB thumb drives so if one doesn't work, try another. It took a few tries for the Epson to take my good quality thumb drive.

If you have Windows around, I would try and format the drive with that or if you have a FAT32 pre--formatted drive that's best. The Mac will report it as just FAT (meaning FAT32). 

_((((The issue formatting drives on the Mac is that the boot type needs to be correctly selected and it's not exactly self-explanatory. In fact I don't think it even appears anymore on the latest OS unless you re-enable the option in Disk Utility. If I remember, you need to hold a key down when you start it. Might not be something to worry about for FAT32 drives but if you get stuck proper this breadcrumb and Google might help you.))))_


----------



## Orwellflash

rollon1980 said:


> No extraction needed, just put it on a thumb drive and follow update process.
> Drive needs to be formatted as FAT32. Also, the Epson is finicky with USB thumb drives so if one doesn't work, try another. It took a few tries for the Epson to take my good quality thumb drive.
> 
> If you have Windows around, I would try and format the drive with that or if you have a FAT32 pre--formatted drive that's best. The Mac will report it as just FAT (meaning FAT32).
> 
> _((((The issue formatting drives on the Mac is that the boot type needs to be correctly selected and it's not exactly self-explanatory. In fact I don't think it even appears anymore on the latest OS unless you re-enable the option in Disk Utility. If I remember, you need to hold a key down when you start it. Might not be something to worry about for FAT32 drives but if you get stuck proper this breadcrumb and Google might help you.))))_


Thanks! The drive I am using came formatted as FAT32, confirmed by info check on drive. Appreciate the help.


----------



## jpbonadio

rollon1980 said:


> Totally agree. After the JVC announcement I went downstairs into the home theatre to watch Mortal Engines on UHD blu ray in Dolby Vision on the 6050 (9400 here) using my Dynamic calibration on a custom 130” CinemaScope CineGrey 3D screen. I’m sorry but this projector kicks ass and I can change lamps yearly or even 6 monthly to keep the brightness at max. No JVC minus the Z1 can reach this level of light output for HDR. The projector calibrates close to *2600-2800* *lumens in dynamic picture mode*. I don’t actually miss DTM with this level of light output. The Epson does mighty fine!


Just out of curiosity, with a calibration at this level of brightness is it possible to obtain at least reasonable colors, or they look too bad to be used? ... I mean, for situations where too much brightness is needed, like a super huge ass screen, would the colors still be enjoyable?


----------



## Hawkmarket

Where does everyone buy their "cheap lamps" for their Epson 5050's?


----------



## biglen

Hawkmarket said:


> Where does everyone buy their "cheap lamps" for their Epson 5050's?


After reading some bad experiences with the cheap lamps, and screws not lining up, I went with the factory Epson lamp. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Hawkmarket said:


> Where does everyone buy their "cheap lamps" for their Epson 5050's?


I gathered my posts regarding my lamp replacement debacle, which all started because in September 2020 *MyProjectorLamps* ran a 10% off sale on Epson, so I figured I should have a back up. Several months later I decided to try the lamp before the 180 day warranty expired. These are my posts concerning my journey:
*9728*, *9937*, *9945*, *9967*, *9993*,*10001*, *10024*, *10026*,
YMMV, hopefully, for the better.


----------



## rollon1980

jpbonadio said:


> Just out of curiosity, with a calibration at this level of brightness is it possible to obtain at least reasonable colors, or they look too bad to be used? ... I mean, for situations where too much brightness is needed, like a super huge ass screen, would the colors still be enjoyable?


Yes, colour is pretty good. I focus HDR calibration to be accurate upto around 70% stimulus, the rest are highlights anyway and even OLEDs are not accurate up there so who cares. ;-) 

Dynamic pic mode is oversaturated by default so use the settings we posted in this thread or the blog I linked. Cheers.


----------



## rollon1980

I know Epson lamps are somewhat more expensive in the US (but still relatively cheap). I got mine straight from Epson for around AU$135 which was a steal. I also got a voucher from them when I registered my projector (and an extra 6 months of warranty). They are pretty awesome here.

Definitely don't get "OEM" lamps, only the Epson brand. Their lamps are high quality and well worth the price. I change my lamp once a year at the moment - or around 1000hrs.


----------



## jpbonadio

rollon1980 said:


> Yes, colour is pretty good. I focus HDR calibration to be accurate upto around 70% stimulus, the rest are highlights anyway and even OLEDs are not accurate up there so who cares. ;-)
> 
> Dynamic pic mode is oversaturated by default so use the settings we posted in this thread or the blog I linked. Cheers.


That's good to know. This level of brightness will be very handy on my new dedicated room because I intend to use a huge screen (really huge, way above what most consider extreme). I will also use MadVR to help with tone mapping in HDR.

I will search for these dynamic mode calibration you posted and save it. Thanks.


----------



## rollon1980

jpbonadio said:


> That's good to know. This level of brightness will be very handy on my new dedicated room because I intend to use a huge screen (really huge, way above what most consider extreme). I will also use MadVR to help with tone mapping in HDR.
> 
> I will search for these dynamic mode calibration you posted and save it. Thanks.


Sure thing. I’ll post the other setting over the next few days on the blog. I’ve only done greyscale / gamma so far on the new lamp tho. CMS doesn’t look too bad. 

Look, if you’ll be using MadVR, best to do a 3D LUT calibration and load it into MadVR. It will give you very good colour, much more precise than Epson’s internal controls. But there’s equipment and a learning curve to overcome. 

I’m gonna get some calibration guides ready for people by end of the year cos I think most enthusiasts should know how to calibrate a display - projector or TV. Grr. :-/


----------



## jpbonadio

rollon1980 said:


> Sure thing. I’ll post the other setting over the next few days on the blog. I’ve only done greyscale / gamma so far on the new lamp tho. CMS doesn’t look too bad.
> 
> Look, if you’ll be using MadVR, best to do a *3D LUT calibration and load it into MadVR*. It will give you very good colour, much more precise than Epson’s internal controls. But there’s equipment and a learning curve to overcome.
> 
> I’m gonna get some calibration guides ready for people by end of the year cos I think most enthusiasts should know how to calibrate a display - projector or TV. Grr. :-/


I'm gonna research about the 3D LUT.

A calibration guide will be very welcome. Thanks for the help.


----------



## RRF

Enchy said:


> These are my macros for switching HDR on and off. The 1s delays make it trigger more consistently.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/DS3xEmY


With the Harmony products discontinued by Logitech...and the absolutely insane pricing on used units...what is everyone looking at for a replacement management system these days? _( I like to be prepared...)_


----------



## RRF

Pigskin Floyd said:


> I can assure you that Eastporters is NOT an authorized Epson retailer.
> 
> Authorized Home Projector Dealers | Epson Canada


I saw the same page...which is why I contacted Epson Canada's corporate office directly.
I also confirmed my warranty here Warranty Verification Canada


----------



## Enchy

RRF said:


> With the Harmony products discontinued by Logitech...and the absolutely insane pricing on used units...what is everyone looking at for a replacement management system these days? _( I like to be prepared...)_


I just ordered a used one a month or two ago on eBay for $180 shipped. Seemed fair to me. 

I did just back this kickstarter from Sofa Baton. Seems like a decent replacement especially for the price. SofabatonX1-Most Versatile Universal ALL-IN-ONE Smart Remote

I have the Sofa Baton U1 in my living room and it is solid.


----------



## RRF

Enchy said:


> I just ordered a used one a month or two ago on eBay for $180 shipped. Seemed fair to me.
> 
> I did just back this kickstarter from Sofa Baton. Seems like a decent replacement especially for the price. SofabatonX1-Most Versatile Universal ALL-IN-ONE Smart Remote
> 
> I have the Sofa Baton U1 in my living room and it is solid.


Looks promising...
Is there a limit on the number of devices per activity?


----------



## Enchy

RRF said:


> Looks promising...
> Is there a limit on the number of devices per activity?


Not sure. The biggest downside that I can see is that the screen isn't a touch screen


----------



## RRF

That's not so bad...as long as they have an app... that's what old tablets are good for.
Harmony's 5 or 6 device limit per activity was it's only flaw.


----------



## ScudDawg

Hawkmarket said:


> Where does everyone buy their "cheap lamps" for their Epson 5050's?


These are the ones I have been using, they are great just like the Epson brand ones I have used. I didn't have to change a single setting in my calibration, at over 800 hours on my bulb right now, I even bought a second for a spare and couldn't be happier.






Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projector Lamps | Home Cinema 5050UB Bulbs | Pureland Supply


Pureland Supply stocks Home Cinema 5050UB Epson Projector Lamps with genuine original Osram bulb inside. Price: $134.60, Quantity in stock:170, Projector Model: Home Cinema 5050UB, Lamp Id: V13H010L89. Free ground shipping and 180 day warranty.



www.purelandsupply.com


----------



## fredworld

ScudDawg said:


> These are the ones I have been using, they are great just like the Epson brand ones I have used. I didn't have to change a single setting in my calibration, at over 800 hours on my bulb right now, I even bought a second for a spare and couldn't be happier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projector Lamps | Home Cinema 5050UB Bulbs | Pureland Supply
> 
> 
> Pureland Supply stocks Home Cinema 5050UB Epson Projector Lamps with genuine original Osram bulb inside. Price: $134.60, Quantity in stock:170, Projector Model: Home Cinema 5050UB, Lamp Id: V13H010L89. Free ground shipping and 180 day warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> www.purelandsupply.com


That's good to see from Pureland. *Seven months ago there were issues *with them, so I'm glad that whoever makes the housings has gotten the lamps' specs correct. I would still, however, try the lamp while the warranty is in effect.


----------



## ScudDawg

fredworld said:


> That's good to see from Pureland. *Seven months ago there were issues *with them, so I'm glad that whoever makes the housings has gotten the lamps' specs correct. I would still, however, try the lamp while the warranty is in effect.


Yeah no modification needed on the new ones.


----------



## vagos1103gr11

My epson has 550 hours on the original lamb. I order the replacement lamp from pureland. Do you think to replace when arrive and to keep the original one as a spear? In case of the new lamp is a failure.


----------



## fredworld

vagos1103gr11 said:


> My epson has 550 hours on the original lamb. I order the replacement lamp from pureland. Do you think to replace when arrive and to keep the original one as a spear? In case of the new lamp is a failure.


Excellent idea.


----------



## RRF

Enchy said:


> Not sure. The biggest downside that I can see is that the screen isn't a touch screen


Unfortunately, it does not support many of my devices.
It does not support , SA/Cisco set-top-boxes, Monoprice Matrix switches, OSMC Vero4K media players, Levitron light switches, Elunevision Motorized screens.


----------



## Enchy

RRF said:


> Unfortunately, it does not support many of my devices.
> It does not support , SA/Cisco set-top-boxes, Monoprice Matrix switches, OSMC Vero4K media players, Levitron light switches, Elunevision Motorized screens.


Ahh that's a bummer. My setup is fairly simple so it's a great option for me. I am kinda annoyed it doesn't have smart device integration as I control my fan and lights through Samsung SmartThings


----------



## rollon1980

I only recommend people use original lamps in their projectors. OEM lamps have been known to run hotter at times, have pre-mature failures, damage optical paths and can have a different colour profile. This is because manufacturers like Epson, JVC, etc order bulbs with tighter specifications than what you will get sold as OEM lamps. In fact some of those might not have passed the stricter specifications and were not sold to Epson, JVC, etc. Additionally, some of the OEM lamps will use slightly different housing that can have a lot of effect on air flow and getting heat away from the critical components. We saw this with some of the older JVCs lamps.

I will keep saying this to people who will listen. Don't do it. It really isn't worth it unless you are way past warranty and don't care about damaging your projector. However, at best you'll get a lower performing lamp with a lower lamp life. Also, just because you got lucky a few times doesn't mean you can't get a dud that will do damage.


----------



## bglinkerman

Looking at the specs between the 5050 and 6050 the only difference I see is the contrast ratio (1,000,000:1 vs 1,200,000:1). For those who have experience with both the 5050 and 6050 is there any real noticeable difference between the two? I've decided I'm going to purchase one of these two but not sure that that one difference is worth the extra $1,000 (I know the 6050 comes with a mount and extra bulb but I don't need the mount and the bulbs are only a couple hundred....so the only reason I would spend the extra $1k is if the contrast ratio made a notable difference).


----------



## Pdiehm1

I just got my Apple TV 4k to stream 4K through YouTube TV. This version of the Apple TV supports 4K HDR Dolby Vision. I'm not seeing the Dolby Vision option, only the 4K HDR in 60Hz. Does that mean the Epson 6050 doesn't support HDR Dolby Vision?


----------



## bglinkerman

Pdiehm1 said:


> I just got my Apple TV 4k to stream 4K through YouTube TV. This version of the Apple TV supports 4K HDR Dolby Vision. I'm not seeing the Dolby Vision option, only the 4K HDR in 60Hz. Does that mean the Epson 6050 doesn't support HDR Dolby Vision?


Last I heard there were no projectors that supported Dolby Vision. That may have changed very recently but don't expect it on the Epson.


----------



## Enchy

Pdiehm1 said:


> I just got my Apple TV 4k to stream 4K through YouTube TV. This version of the Apple TV supports 4K HDR Dolby Vision. I'm not seeing the Dolby Vision option, only the 4K HDR in 60Hz. Does that mean the Epson 6050 doesn't support HDR Dolby Vision?


It's not officially supported, but you can get the 6050 to accept a Dolby Vision signal from an ATV4K using an Hdfury device as detailed in this thread. Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...

I have this setup on mine and I highly recommend it, especially if you have Dolby Vision UHDBDs.


----------



## Pdiehm1

Enchy said:


> It's not officially supported, but you can get the 6050 to accept a Dolby Vision signal from an ATV4K using an Hdfury device as detailed in this thread. Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> I have this setup on mine and I highly recommend it, especially if you have Dolby Vision UHDBDs.


That's waaaaaaay above my paygrade. I'm very technically challenged when it comes to this stuff. I need details that a 5 year old could follow.


----------



## hutt132

For those of you using MadVR for HDR tone mapping, do you enable HDR mode on this projector as well?


----------



## PixelPusher15

bglinkerman said:


> Looking at the specs between the 5050 and 6050 the only difference I see is the contrast ratio (1,000,000:1 vs 1,200,000:1). For those who have experience with both the 5050 and 6050 is there any real noticeable difference between the two? I've decided I'm going to purchase one of these two but not sure that that one difference is worth the extra $1,000 (I know the 6050 comes with a mount and extra bulb but I don't need the mount and the bulbs are only a couple hundred....so the only reason I would spend the extra $1k is if the contrast ratio made a notable difference).


I don't have experience with both but the only actual performance differences between the two are that the 6050 comes with the best Epson lenses (this is where the contrast spec bump comes from) and the ability to utilize an A lens. I don't think I could find it but I do recall someone doing some contrast measurements and noticing a slight uptick in contrast on the 6050. Keep in mind though that the manufacturer's contrast specs are pure rubbish. The 5050 has been measured in the 4000:1 - 5000:1 range and I think I recall the 6050 maybe being able to eek out another 500 on these numbers. A 10% bump here isn't going to be super noticeable, if at all. The biggest advantage to the 6050 is a quality mount, a lamp and another year of warranty. Oh, and the black case. These goodies don't equal $1000, maybe $400 or so. But, sometimes you can get some slick deals by calling dealers too which at times can pretty much nullify that $600 gap.


----------



## fredworld

bglinkerman said:


> Looking at the specs between the 5050 and 6050 the only difference I see is the contrast ratio (1,000,000:1 vs 1,200,000:1). For those who have experience with both the 5050 and 6050 is there any real noticeable difference between the two? I've decided I'm going to purchase one of these two but not sure that that one difference is worth the extra $1,000 (I know the 6050 comes with a mount and extra bulb but I don't need the mount and the bulbs are only a couple hundred....so the only reason I would spend the extra $1k is if the contrast ratio made a notable difference).





PixelPusher15 said:


> I don't have experience with both but the only actual performance differences between the two are that the 6050 comes with the best Epson lenses (this is where the contrast spec bump comes from) and the ability to utilize an A lens. I don't think I could find it but I do recall someone doing some contrast measurements and noticing a slight uptick in contrast on the 6050. Keep in mind though that the manufacturer's contrast specs are pure rubbish. The 5050 has been measured in the 4000:1 - 5000:1 range and I think I recall the 6050 maybe being able to eek out another 500 on these numbers. A 10% bump here isn't going to be super noticeable, if at all. The biggest advantage to the 6050 is a quality mount, a lamp and another year of warranty. Oh, and the black case. These goodies don't equal $1000, maybe $400 or so. But, sometimes you can get some slick deals by calling dealers too which at times can pretty much nullify that $600 gap.


There are reviews of both PJ's on *Projector Central* and *Projector Reviews*, (*5050*) (*6050*) and I think they are by the same reviewers on the respective sites. Good luck with your decision.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> There are reviews of both PJ's on *Projector Central* and *Projector Reviews*, (*5050*) (*6050*) and I think they are by the same reviewers on the respective sites. Good luck with your decision.


Both of these are based on measurements of a 5050 though. I know I've seen a comment on the contrast difference between the 5050 and 6050, I just can't recall where.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> There are reviews of both PJ's on *Projector Central* and *Projector Reviews*, (*5050*) (*6050*) and I think they are by the same reviewers on the respective sites. Good luck with your decision.


@bglinkerman 

Hmm, I did find something that may be applicable. The *6040 *measured at 5400:1 in Eco/SDR/Natural and the *5050* measured at 4600:1 

Not apples to apples, but also not apples to oranges. This is the same reviewer, using the same equipment, and the same screen. I believe most of the differences between the X040 and X050 are processing (and fixing the power supply). I don't believe the LCDs, lenses, or anything else changed that would impact contrast.









Epson Pro Cinema 6040UB LCD 4K (Pixel-Shift) Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com


Epson projectors have always led the pack in value, but this year they’ve truly outdone themselves with the new Pro Cinema 6040UB. It features...




hometheaterhifi.com












Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com


Epson’s Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector delivers a sharp bright image with superb color accuracy and contrast. For just $3000, you get Ultra HD...




hometheaterhifi.com


----------



## bglinkerman

PixelPusher15 said:


> I don't have experience with both but the only actual performance differences between the two are that the 6050 comes with the best Epson lenses (this is where the contrast spec bump comes from) and the ability to utilize an A lens. I don't think I could find it but I do recall someone doing some contrast measurements and noticing a slight uptick in contrast on the 6050. Keep in mind though that the manufacturer's contrast specs are pure rubbish. The 5050 has been measured in the 4000:1 - 5000:1 range and I think I recall the 6050 maybe being able to eek out another 500 on these numbers. A 10% bump here isn't going to be super noticeable, if at all. The biggest advantage to the 6050 is a quality mount, a lamp and another year of warranty. Oh, and the black case. These goodies don't equal $1000, maybe $400 or so. But, sometimes you can get some slick deals by calling dealers too which at times can pretty much nullify that $600 gap.


I didn't realize the bump in contrast was due to a better lens. Thanks for the good info. I will call around to a few dealers and see if I can find any deals.


----------



## DavidK442

bglinkerman said:


> I will call around to a few dealers and see if I can find any deals.


Good luck. I believe everything electronic is still feeling the pandemic crunch. Seems to be inventory finally but asking full MSRP.


----------



## Brinstar

Has anyone had a problem with powering a roku stick or chrome cast from the USB type-A port on the back? I just upgraded from the Epson 2150 and it could power the roku streaming stick just fine. Not sure if this is isolated to my 5050ub or not.


----------



## rekbones

bglinkerman said:


> I didn't realize the bump in contrast was due to a better lens. Thanks for the good info. I will call around to a few dealers and see if I can find any deals.


It doesn't per say have a better lens as in a different lens it is just hand picked along with other components to be the best of what they have. I am willing to bet differences between some 5050's if measured could easily show the same bump in contrast


----------



## PixelPusher15

rekbones said:


> It doesn't per say have a better lens as in a different lens it is just hand picked along with other components to be the best of what they have. I am willing to bet differences between some 5050's if measured could easily show the same bump in contrast


That's a good point. Given normal unit-to-unit variation, there's nothing saying a 5050 and a 6050 won't perform the same. It's probably better to think of it like you are paying for a bit of assurance that the 6050 won't be one of the 5050s on the bottom end of the bell curve.


----------



## DaGamePimp

The 4010, 5050 and 6050 all share the same lens but it has been claimed that the 6050 gets the AAA (hand-picked) lens. This means a tighter tolerance as shifted away from center, at center they should have the same tolerance. My experience with the 4010 and 5050 would seem to indicate the lens claim could be true as my 5050ub has slightly better optics versus the 4010 that I had right before it.

- Jason


----------



## Brinstar

Brinstar said:


> Has anyone had a problem with powering a roku stick or chrome cast from the USB type-A port on the back? I just upgraded from the Epson 2150 and it could power the roku streaming stick just fine. Not sure if this is isolated to my 5050ub or not.


I have contacted Epson and was told the rear usb will not power a roku stick.


----------



## fredworld

Brinstar said:


> I have contacted Epson and was told the rear usb will not power a roku stick.


Makes sense. I just checked the manual. Page 18 says the USB port is "for optional wireless LAN module and firmware updates." No mention of streaming capability.


----------



## Brinstar

Brinstar said:


> Has anyone had a problem with powering a roku stick or chrome cast from the USB type-A port on the back? I just upgraded from the Epson 2150 and it could power the roku streaming stick just fine. Not sure if this is isolated to my 5050ub or not.


I have contacted Epson and was told the rear usb will not power a roku stick. Kinda Sri is


fredworld said:


> Makes sense. I just checked the manual. Page 18 says the USB port is "for optional wireless LAN module and firmware updates." No mention of streaming capability.


Yeah, I was optimistic it would because other Epson projectors work but this is more a dedicated home theatre projector. Not a big deal just makes outdoor setup cumbersome with more power cords.


----------



## Luminated67

Finally got round to watching a 4K movie tonight after learning the 1.03 update included a tweak to the e-shift where the claim is it now shifts 3 times instead of twice but the panel alignment must be turned off. So to my surprise when you move extremely close to the screen yep the e-shift is indeed difference and the end result when you shift back to your regular sitting position is a crisper yet smoother images that’s more like a proper Native 4K.

I have always been impressed by my Epson but it’s now even better.

StarTrek Beyond 4K








This transfer is way more pixelated than the capture with the iPhone which in turn isn’t as good as the naked eye.


----------



## caralmol

CinemacDaddy said:


> I received both my bulb direct from Epson when it was briefly in stock ($330) and from Compass Micro ($249). Epson recommended Compass Micro when they were out of stock. Compass Micro is reportedly an authorized Epson service center. When I called them up, they assured me their bulb was OEM / Factory original and not a refurb or generic bulb. Can you tell which is which from the packaging (LoL)? The Compass Micro bulb shipped out and arrived much faster and arrived undamaged but the Epson bulb was packaged better in a box within a retail box within an even larger well padded box. I got my air filter from Compass Micro as well as Epson was out of this too.
> View attachment 3111706
> 
> 
> The bulb from Epson had a sticker of authenticity both on the bulb housing as well as the box, included paperwork and a screw driver.
> View attachment 3111707
> 
> View attachment 3111709
> 
> 
> 
> The Compass Micro bulb did not come with a sticker on the box or housing and and there was no paper work or mini screw driver. The screws were the right size though.
> View attachment 3111710
> 
> View attachment 3111711
> 
> 
> 
> It's worth pointing out that the original bulb I replaced that came with my 5050UB (Purchased direct from Epson as new, not a refurb) also did not have the Epson authenticity sticker.
> 
> My original bulb had 4000 hours and had become a bit more dim with the light on, but still looked great in the theater with the lights out.
> 
> I put the Compass Micro Bulb in first, there were no issues with the screws. Afterwards the image was plenty bright with both the lights on / off in the theater. I used this for a week before trying out the Epson Bulb the following weekend. If there is a difference, I can't be certain thus far. My wife didn't even notice when I changed the bulb both times. Both are clearly brighter than the aged original to me, but I can't tell if the Epson one is any brighter than the Compass Micro without any equipment to measure. I plan to run each for 4,000 hours. 8,000 PJ hours from now, I'll try Epson first for the warm fuzzies the authenticity sticker provides, but if they aren't in stock I would use Compass Micro again in a pinch provided it lasts the 4000 hours I usually run. Compass Micro still has these bulbs in stock for $250 if anyone is needing a bulb right now.


Hi CinemacDaddy, can you post Compass Micro web please? my lamp failed and Epson is out of stock. 
Thanks,
Caralmol


----------



## PixelPusher15

caralmol said:


> Hi CinemacDaddy, can you post Compass Micro web please? my lamp failed and Epson is out of stock.
> Thanks,
> Caralmol


lamp-assembly-v13h010l89-for-epson-home-cinema-5050ub.html


----------



## caralmol

Thanks!


PixelPusher15 said:


> lamp-assembly-v13h010l89-for-epson-home-cinema-5050ub.html


 I appreciate it.


----------



## biglen

Luminated67 said:


> Finally got round to watching a 4K movie tonight after learning the 1.03 update included a tweak to the e-shift where the claim is it now shifts 3 times instead of twice but the panel alignment must be turned off. So to my surprise when you move extremely close to the screen yep the e-shift is indeed difference and the end result when you shift back to your regular sitting position is a crisper yet smoother images that’s more like a proper Native 4K.
> 
> I have always been impressed by my Epson but it’s now even better.
> 
> StarTrek Beyond 4K
> View attachment 3173865
> 
> This transfer is way more pixelated than the capture with the iPhone which in turn isn’t as good as the naked eye.


I don't see any difference when turning off panel alignment. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

biglen said:


> I don't see any difference when turning off panel alignment.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That's because it will vary from unit to unit as it depends upon the factory (out of the box) alignment and what adjustments have been made by the end-user.

- Jason


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> That's because it will vary from unit to unit as it depends upon the factory (out of the box) alignment and what adjustments have been made by the end-user.
> 
> - Jason


I had my 5050 professionally calibrated, and he did do a panel alignment. Is that why I'm not seeing a difference?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

biglen said:


> I had my 5050 professionally calibrated, and he did do a panel alignment. Is that why I'm not seeing a difference?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


No, unless the calibrator did something unique from within the service menu.

- Jason


----------



## PixelPusher15

DaGamePimp said:


> No, unless the calibrator did something unique from within the service menu.
> 
> - Jason


Wait, this answer threw me off. I thought @biglen was saying that he didn't see a resolution difference since panel alignment was on. But then it looks like you said panel alignment wouldn't affect the 3x shifting. But @Luminated67 said it needs to be off. 

I have panel alignment on for some convergence issues mine had so I had been wondering if worse convergence would be better or worse than 3x shifting.


----------



## DaGamePimp

PixelPusher15 said:


> Wait, this answer threw me off. I thought @biglen was saying that he didn't see a resolution difference since panel alignment was on. But then it looks like you said panel alignment wouldn't affect the 3x shifting. But @Luminated67 said it needs to be off.
> 
> I have panel alignment on for some convergence issues mine had so I had been wondering if worse convergence would be better or worse than 3x shifting.


It varies by unit, each unit is different in this regard otherwise there would be no need for the Panel Alignment function (obviously they are not all perfectly aligned when new out of the box).

The increment adjustment that is used will vary unit to unit (if adjusted) and as such the degree at which it can alter the image will also vary.

You can test this for yourself, toss up some resolution patterns and turn PA on/off, assuming you have made adjustments (be sure to save the adjustments first if you wish to keep them).

I am assuming there are service menu adjustments as well but we don't need to dive into that here, I only mentioned it due to biglen saying his unit had been professionally calibrated and we don't know exactly what was done. In other words... it's possible that the calibrator did some form of PA from within the service menu and this would have an impact on what biglen is seeing.

- Jason


----------



## Nightlord

Tried out my Hi-Shock glasses yesterday... I'm prepared to say that the 3D-experience with this setup works better with my eyes than any public cinema ever did. So much more "crisp" 3D.
(I used "Find Dory" to test with. Don't really have that many 3D BluRays, didn't prioritize that if the price difference was significant)


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> Finally got round to watching a 4K movie tonight after learning the 1.03 update included a tweak to the e-shift where the claim is it now shifts 3 times instead of twice but the panel alignment must be turned off. So to my surprise when you move extremely close to the screen yep the e-shift is indeed difference and the end result when you shift back to your regular sitting position is a crisper yet smoother images that’s more like a proper Native 4K.
> 
> I have always been impressed by my Epson but it’s now even better.
> 
> StarTrek Beyond 4K
> View attachment 3173865
> 
> This transfer is way more pixelated than the capture with the iPhone which in turn isn’t as good as the naked eye.


When was 1.03 released? Not sure what version I have.


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> When was 1.03 released? Not sure what version I have.


I believe it was last November 2020 but has since been superseded with 1.04 which carries on this pixel shift. I think the reason why I never realised about it is because the calibrator used the panel alignment which when ON doesn't allow this extra shift.


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> I believe it was last November 2020 but has since been superseded with 1.04 which carries on this pixel shift. I think the reason why I never realised about it is because the calibrator used the panel alignment which when ON doesn't allow this extra shift.


If I have 1.04 should I "downgrade"?
Or should I just go into the settings and disable panel alignment?


----------



## DaGamePimp

Luminated67 said:


> I believe it was last November 2020 but has since been superseded with 1.04 which carries on this pixel shift. I think the reason why I never realised about it is because the calibrator used the panel alignment which when ON doesn't allow this extra shift.


Using the PA function does not negate the firmware 1.03/1.04 24Hz improvement. 

I am using PA and can clearly see it.

- Jason


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> If I have 1.04 should I "downgrade"?
> Or should I just go into the settings and disable panel alignment?


I'm pretty sure there's no way to downgrade firmware. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> If I have 1.04 should I "downgrade"?
> Or should I just go into the settings and disable panel alignment?


I’m on 1.04 but unlike @DaGamePimp I appear to have to disable the PA to get the 3xshift.


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> It varies by unit, each unit is different in this regard otherwise there would be no need for the Panel Alignment function (obviously they are not all perfectly aligned when new out of the box).
> 
> The increment adjustment that is used will vary unit to unit (if adjusted) and as such the degree at which it can alter the image will also vary.
> 
> You can test this for yourself, toss up some resolution patterns and turn PA on/off, assuming you have made adjustments (be sure to save the adjustments first if you wish to keep them).
> 
> I am assuming there are service menu adjustments as well but we don't need to dive into that here, I only mentioned it due to biglen saying his unit had been professionally calibrated and we don't know exactly what was done. In other words... it's possible that the calibrator did some form of PA from within the service menu and this would have an impact on what biglen is seeing.
> 
> - Jason


By turning off panel alignment for this experiment, did I lose the panel alignment that the calibrator did ? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> I’m on 1.04 but unlike @DaGamePimp I appear to have to disable the PA to get the 3xshift.


But if I disable that will the 3x activate automatically or is that another setting?


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> But if I disable that will the 3x activate automatically or is that another setting?


Seems automatic


----------



## fredworld

Luminated67 said:


> Seems automatic


Is this only noticeable with certain electronic equipment or can it be seen with our eyeballs? With my panel alignment on and off I could not make out any difference in pixel structure despite having my face less than 12 in from the screen. What should I be looking for? I'm on FW 1.04.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Is this only noticeable with certain electronic equipment or can it be seen with our eyeballs? With my panel alignment on and off I could not make out any difference in pixel structure despite having my face less than 12 in from the screen. What should I be looking for? I'm on FW 1.04.


I'm wondering the same thing myself. I hope I didn't screw up the panel alignment that was done, when I turned off panel alignment. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

You *should* not lose PA adjustments by turning the setting off/on alone but I mentioned saving because I did lose my adjustments on a couple of occasions (after power off/on).

The easiest way to see this is by pixel peeping 24Hz versus 60Hz @ 4K (4:4:4) via a PC.

- Jason


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> You *should* not lose PA adjustments by turning the setting off/on alone but I mentioned saving because I did lose my adjustments on a couple of occasions (after power off/on).
> 
> The easiest way to see this is by pixel peeping 24Hz versus 60Hz @ 4K (4:4:4) via a PC.
> 
> - Jason


I keep seeing the term "pixel peeping", but I have no idea how to do it. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> I keep seeing the term "pixel peeping", but I have no idea how to do it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Google it. You'll be surprised at the results on how-to along with
comments, opinions and perspectives.


----------



## DaGamePimp

biglen said:


> I keep seeing the term "pixel peeping", but I have no idea how to do it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


LoL, it just means getting up close to the screen and inspecting the pixels, some even use magnification.

- Jason


----------



## biglen

DaGamePimp said:


> LoL, it just means getting up close to the screen and inspecting the pixels, some even use magnification.
> 
> - Jason


And what are you looking for?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

biglen said:


> And what are you looking for?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


What appears to be an extra pixel that is visible at 24Hz versus 60Hz, I think it's that they cleaned up the 24Hz timings as it is more refined (again, versus 60Hz).

A nice tight focus makes it easier to see.

- Jason


----------



## RVD26

I've had a couple of instances where my refurb 5050 cuts off while watching content. It happened last night while I was watching the game via DirecTV.
Anyone else experiencing this? Is there some kind of setting that may be causing this?


----------



## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> I've had a couple of instances where my refurb 5050 cuts off while watching content. It happened last night while I was watching the game via DirecTV.
> Anyone else experiencing this? Is there some kind of setting that may be causing this?


It's happened to me too. I believe it's most likely an HDMI issue but it has just been this gremlin that randomly pops up at times and then goes away. I haven't seen it happen in a month or two and before that, it was another month.


----------



## Werewolf79

Pretorian said:


> But if I disable that will the 3x activate automatically or is that another setting?


There is no 3x Pixel shift, LCD pixel response time is much slower than DLP, they cannot do it, more likely as has been noted above they cleaned things up, the 3x Pixel shift information is what I would call misinformation, happens a lot on the internet.

Some already mailed Epson, who confirmed nothing has been done to the image for the latest firmware revision, that firmware was to fix an HDMI handshake issue I think or something related to the HDMI board, it has no effect on video, I did not bother updating to 1.04 as I have no issue with HDMI handshakes.

You can even see this by bringing up the information and it shows for the video side of things 1.03 was the latest firmware, the 1.04 is for the HDMI board.

So can we see less misinformation and more clarity, thanks.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Werewolf79 said:


> There is no 3x Pixel shift, LCD pixel response time is much slower than DLP, they cannot do it, more likely as has been noted above they cleaned things up, the 3x Pixel shift information is what I would call misinformation, happens a lot on the internet.
> 
> Some already mailed Epson, who confirmed nothing has been done to the image for the latest firmware revision, that firmware was to fix an HDMI handshake issue I think or something related to the HDMI board, it has no effect on video, I did not bother updating to 1.04 as I have no issue with HDMI handshakes.
> 
> You can even see this by bringing up the information and it shows for the video side of things 1.03 was the latest firmware, the 1.04 is for the HDMI board.
> 
> So can we see less misinformation and more clarity, thanks.


I just sent them an email asking for a response from someone aware of the engineering of the projector.

Working with many different support departments I don't think we can rely on "someone emailed them and they said no" as proof. More than likely when an email goes out to Epson support it is handled by a generalist that has scripts for many different issues. For someone asking "did version 1.3 change the pixel shift behavior for 24hz content?" they would most likely pull up the release notes for 1.3 and see that there wasn't any change listed. So the answer would be no. That doesn't mean they didn't change anything, though. It means it wasn't reported on the release notes and the support person isn't aware of what the engineering team did or didn't do.

LCD pixel response for 24hz is fast enough to shift 3x. That would be 72hz. Considering it can shift 2x for 4k 60hz content then it for sure can shift 3x for 24hz. Now, did they develop 3 positions for the actuator or whatever shifts the pixels? I dunno. I have my doubts too but others are reporting seeing changes so to call it misinformation is to call their own eyeballs into question.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> It's happened to me too. I believe it's most likely an HDMI issue but it has just been this gremlin that randomly pops up at times and then goes away. I haven't seen it happen in a month or two and before that, it was another month.


Is CEC and HDMI control off on the PJ and AVR/AVP?


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Is CEC and HDMI control off on the PJ and AVR/AVP?


Nope. Not for me. It hasn’t been a big enough issue to trouble shoot and I’ve still been figuring out my remote situation. Those HDMI CEC features have come in handy in my setup


----------



## Werewolf79

PixelPusher15 said:


> I just sent them an email asking for a response from someone aware of the engineering of the projector.
> 
> Working with many different support departments I don't think we can rely on "someone emailed them and they said no" as proof. More than likely when an email goes out to Epson support it is handled by a generalist that has scripts for many different issues. For someone asking "did version 1.3 change the pixel shift behavior for 24hz content?" they would most likely pull up the release notes for 1.3 and see that there wasn't any change listed. So the answer would be no. That doesn't mean they didn't change anything, though. It means it wasn't reported on the release notes and the support person isn't aware of what the engineering team did or didn't do.
> 
> LCD pixel response for 24hz is fast enough to shift 3x. That would be 72hz. Considering it can shift 2x for 4k 60hz content then it for sure can shift 3x for 24hz. Now, did they develop 3 positions for the actuator or whatever shifts the pixels? I dunno. I have my doubts too but others are reporting seeing changes so to call it misinformation is to call their own eyeballs into question.


Epson would be letting the world know if they had pulled 3x shifting off on their LCD tech.

JVC did this many times with their old X series of projectors, they would clean up the pixel shifting technology, they were not able to do 3x shifting, the technology cannot do it.

If they could do it they would shout from the rooftops as that is something that sells projectors, so I do not believe they have managed to do this via firmware, something like 3x pixel shifting would be hardware and firmware not just software related, that’s what I think anyways.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Werewolf79 said:


> Epson would be letting the world know if they had pulled 3x shifting off on their LCD tech.
> 
> JVC did this many times with their old X series of projectors, they would clean up the pixel shifting technology, they were not able to do 3x shifting, the technology cannot do it.
> 
> If they could do it they would shout from the rooftops as that is something that sells projectors, so I do not believe they have managed to do this via firmware, something like 3x pixel shifting would be hardware and firmware not just software related, that’s what I think anyways.


I’m not saying you’re wrong but I would think that if they cleaned up the pixel shifting to the point that owners are able to see a difference then they’d also put that in the release notes.


----------



## RVD26

PixelPusher15 said:


> Nope. Not for me. It hasn’t been a big enough issue to trouble shoot and I’ve still been figuring out my remote situation. Those HDMI CEC features have come in handy in my setup





fredworld said:


> Is CEC and HDMI control off on the PJ and AVR/AVP?


I'll have to check those settings and see. I use a Harmony remote to control everything so I don't think I have any need for CEC.

EDIT: Is that the 'HDMI Link' option on the projector?


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> I'll have to check those settings and see. I use a Harmony remote to control everything so I don't think I have any need for CEC.
> 
> EDIT: Is that the 'HDMI Link' option on the projector?


Yes. Sorry bout that.


----------



## RVD26

fredworld said:


> Yes. Sorry bout that.


Okay, I just turned that option off on the PJ. I'll see if this issue pops up again.
The CEC and ARC options on my AVR were already set to off.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Werewolf79 said:


> There is no 3x Pixel shift, LCD pixel response time is much slower than DLP, they cannot do it, more likely as has been noted above they cleaned things up, the 3x Pixel shift information is what I would call misinformation, happens a lot on the internet.
> 
> Some already mailed Epson, who confirmed nothing has been done to the image for the latest firmware revision, that firmware was to fix an HDMI handshake issue I think or something related to the HDMI board, it has no effect on video, I did not bother updating to 1.04 as I have no issue with HDMI handshakes.
> 
> You can even see this by bringing up the information and it shows for the video side of things 1.03 was the latest firmware, the 1.04 is for the HDMI board.
> 
> So can we see less misinformation and more clarity, thanks.



Are you speaking from a place of personal 5050/6050ub experience with this or making a guess based upon opinion?  

It is fair to say we cannot verify 3x shifting but it is not to call it all out as misinformation.

I am the one that has stated it is likely just a timing refinement but that does not negate what is happening (and it gives the appearance of an extra, well defined, pixel).

At the end of the day it is probably a 24Hz refinement since as you go from 24Hz to 30Hz to 50Hz to 60Hz it is less refined (I tested it), or maybe they just made 60Hz worse...  

Realize that we could contact twenty different people at Epson and still not have an accurate answer, the people that know are the ones writing the code and they are not on the phone or responding to end-user emails. 

Call it what you will but there is a clear difference going from 24Hz to 60Hz, I honestly wish the 60Hz pixels were as refined/solid for gaming/pc use (which is not to imply it's bad at 60Hz, it's not, it's just cleaner at 24Hz).

- Jason


----------



## RVD26

It looks like my Monoprice HDMI cable just bit the dust. I've only had it for a few months. Can anyone recommend a good replacement cable that will run in-wall at a distance of about 25 feet.


----------



## biglen

RVD26 said:


> It looks like my Monoprice HDMI cable just bit the dust. I've only had it for a few months. Can anyone recommend a good replacement cable that will run in-wall at a distance of about 25 feet.


Get the BJC Series-3A active cable. I've been running the 35ft with my 5050 for 2 years, and its been flawless. 



HDMI Cable from Blue Jeans Cable



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ShadowBoy

*Epson 6050 vs. JVC NX7*

Hi, brains trust. I have a few questions (that I know has been debated a lot on here), but I’d like to ask anyway.

I bought an Epson 6050 and while the picture is good (and hasn’t yet been calibrated) it doesn’t have that cinematic pop I was hoping for.

I was excited to hear about the new line of laser JVC’s, but even the cheapest one is out of my price range.

I am considering selling the Epson and buying a lamp based JVC NX-7. I have two questions for you all.


For those who might have seen both the Epson 6050 and the JVC, which has better 3D?

Secondly, what do you think the odds are of getting a unit that has the dreaded purple and green stripes? I live in Australia so am concerned because we don’t get the great after sale service that you do in the US.

Any opinions are appreciated. ( Posted in the JVC thread too)


----------



## Luminated67

ShadowBoy said:


> *Epson 6050 vs. JVC NX7*
> 
> Hi, brains trust. I have a few questions (that I know has been debated a lot on here), but I’d like to ask anyway.
> 
> I bought an Epson 6050 and while the picture is good (and hasn’t yet been calibrated) it doesn’t have that cinematic pop I was hoping for.
> 
> I was excited to hear about the new line of laser JVC’s, but even the cheapest one is out of my price range.
> 
> I am considering selling the Epson and buying a lamp based JVC NX-7. I have two questions for you all.
> 
> 
> For those who might have seen both the Epson 6050 and the JVC, which has better 3D?
> 
> Secondly, what do you think the odds are of getting a unit that has the dreaded purple and green stripes? I live in Australia so am concerned because we don’t get the great after sale service that you do in the US.
> 
> Any opinions are appreciated. ( Posted in the JVC thread too)


I personally don't watch 3D content but everything I have heard from ones on here and on AVForums would suggest that for 3D the Epson's added lumens makes it the better choice.


----------



## fredworld

ShadowBoy said:


> *Epson 6050 vs. JVC NX7*
> 
> Hi, brains trust. I have a few questions (that I know has been debated a lot on here), but I’d like to ask anyway.
> 
> I bought an Epson 6050 and while the picture is good (and hasn’t yet been calibrated) it doesn’t have that cinematic pop I was hoping for.
> 
> I was excited to hear about the new line of laser JVC’s, but even the cheapest one is out of my price range.
> 
> I am considering selling the Epson and buying a lamp based JVC NX-7. I have two questions for you all.
> 
> 
> For those who might have seen both the Epson 6050 and the JVC, which has better 3D?
> 
> Secondly, what do you think the odds are of getting a unit that has the dreaded purple and green stripes? I live in Australia so am concerned because we don’t get the great after sale service that you do in the US.
> 
> Any opinions are appreciated. ( Posted in the JVC thread too)


I can't comment on the JVC. But before you sell your Epson I suggest a subjective calibration.
Purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc was one of the best investments I made at $40 for my display. The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm just about spot on with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs. Most of the patterns are for "evaluation only" while a few are specifically for adjusting user controls. It's those few that I return to for tweaking, mainly, Brightness, Contrast and the disc's Demo Material for Color/Tint, and for further fine tuning, judicious use of the HDR slider of the 5050 or in my Panasonic player. Some experimentation of the projector's GAMMA setting is necessary. I settled on -2 in Digital Cinema mode then proceeded to finalize my "calibration." Depending on source material I find that I might need only to move BRIGHTNESS or (if UHD) the HDR slider a notch or two, +or-, to achieve quite pleasing satisfactory results.
The *Getting Started Guide* on the S&M website is worth taking the time to read through and once one gets the basic understanding for the actual adjusting it only takes about 10-15 minutes to "calibrate." It doesn't replace a professional calibration but the highly satisfactory results I've gotten have discouraged me from pursuing one. My set-up is relatively conservative in screen size. Perhaps if my screen was as large as some on this forum I might feel otherwise about a pro-cal.
As for 3D, I don't do very much of it buy I'm very impressed with the results using inexpensive Samsung glasses.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> I can't comment on the JVC. But before you sell your Epson I suggest a subjective calibration.
> Purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc was one of the best investments I made at $40 for my display. The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm just about spot on with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs. Most of the patterns are for "evaluation only" while a few are specifically for adjusting user controls. It's those few that I return to for tweaking, mainly, Brightness, Contrast and the disc's Demo Material for Color/Tint, and for further fine tuning, judicious use of the HDR slider of the 5050 or in my Panasonic player. Some experimentation of the projector's GAMMA setting is necessary. I settled on -2 in Digital Cinema mode then proceeded to finalize my "calibration." Depending on source material I find that I might need only to move BRIGHTNESS or (if UHD) the HDR slider a notch or two, +or-, to achieve quite pleasing satisfactory results.
> The *Getting Started Guide* on the S&M website is worth taking the time to read through and once one gets the basic understanding for the actual adjusting it only takes about 10-15 minutes to "calibrate." It doesn't replace a professional calibration but the highly satisfactory results I've gotten have discouraged me from pursuing one. My set-up is relatively conservative in screen size. Perhaps if my screen was as large as some on this forum I might feel otherwise about a pro-cal.
> As for 3D, I don't do very much of it buy I'm very impressed with the results using inexpensive Samsung glasses.


I've heard great things about the S&M UHD disc. I've had my 5050 professionally calibrated a couple years ago, so I'm thinking I'll pick up the disc, to make sure the calibration stays good. Since the professional calibration, I have installed a new lamp. I'm sure that changed some things that probably need adjusting. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## mpls1981

Has anyone heard if they are updating this year or if the chip shortage is causing issues with stock for the 5050ub? I've been watching Best Buy and Amazon for months and expecting to have to wait till November to save a few hundred dollars based on the price per camel. However, last week BB went out of stock and now Amazon is down to 5 and doesn't include the "more on the way" tag.


----------



## SteveS78

Is there a way to turn the e-shift on and off on the 5050UB? Or does the unit just do it automatically and there are no manual options for that?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

SteveS78 said:


> Is there a way to turn the e-shift on and off on the 5050UB? Or does the unit just do it automatically and there are no manual options for that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Turn off 4k Enhancement. See page 82 of the Manual. However, AFAIK, if the input signal is 4k, then it can't be turned off as it's what generates the 3840x2160 Image from 4k sources.


----------



## SteveS78

fredworld said:


> Turn off 4k Enhancement. See page 82 of the Manual. However, AFAIK, if the input signal is 4k, then it can't be turned off as it's what generates the 3840x2160 Image from 4k sources.


I just tried with a 4K source playing and with a 1080p source playing. The feature is greyed out either way....

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

SteveS78 said:


> I just tried with a 4K source playing and with a 1080p source playing. The feature is greyed out either way....
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


What ever your using for a source is most likely upgrading it to 4K. Could be your AVR or your streaming device. Check the projector status and make sure it is really receiving 1080p.


----------



## SteveS78

rekbones said:


> What ever your using for a source is most likely upgrading it to 4K. Could be your AVR or your streaming device. Check the projector status and make sure it is really receiving 1080p.


It's just Youtube TV.

How do I check projector resolution status?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

SteveS78 said:


> I just tried with a 4K source playing and with a 1080p source playing. The feature is greyed out either way....
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


It will be grayed out if fed 4k. If it's grayed out with a 1080p source then there must be an upcoversion being done to match the display capabilities somewhere in the chain. Check the output settings of your source(s) and AVP/AVR to be sure that they are passing 1080p and not altering the signal. Then confirm that the PJ is getting a 1080p signal. On the PJ go to the PJ INFO menu to see what resolution the PJ is receiving to confirm and if it's not matching the source output then continue to check the output settings in your equipment chain.


----------



## rekbones

Menu, info, projector info. What are you using to get YTV?


----------



## SteveS78

rekbones said:


> Menu, info, projector info. What are you using to get YTV?


Nvidia Shield. The 2017 version, the one one that doesn't do the AI Upscaling. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

SteveS78 said:


> Nvidia Shield. The 2017 version, the one one that doesn't do the AI Upscaling.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The Shield will upgrade to 4K if it reads a capable EDID. Unless you set a custom res to force 1080p.


----------



## SteveS78

rekbones said:


> The Shield will upgrade to 4K if it reads a capable EDID. Unless you set a custom res to force 1080p.


Even the old Shield?

How does the new one look with the AI Upscaling? Even better?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

SteveS78 said:


> I just tried with a 4K source playing and with a 1080p source playing. The feature is greyed out either way....
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Go to Signal, Advanced, Image Processing, and make sure it's set to Fine. Also, make sure it's a 1080p 24hz feed, and not 60hz. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## SteveS78

Was just playing with some settings in this area of the menu. I just tried turning EDID to normal. Had been on expanded all of this time. Amazingly the picture seems way more vivid full of color on normal. I am actually shocked at the difference. Did not expect that. Is the normal setting the better of those EDID settings? What exactly does it do to the picture to make it more vibrant than expanded? Am watching MNF and the game suddenly pops WAY more.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

SteveS78 said:


> Was just playing with some settings in this area of the menu. I just tried turning EDID to normal. Had been on expanded all of this time. Amazingly the picture seems way more vivid full of color on normal. I am actually shocked at the difference. Did not expect that. Is the normal setting the better of those EDID settings? What exactly does it do to the picture to make it more vibrant than expanded? Am watching MNF and the game suddenly pops WAY more.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


Limits your bandwidth so you most likely you are disabling HDR. It must be on expanded to get 4K/HDR. Again check your projector stats to see what the source is sending to the projector.


----------



## SteveS78

rekbones said:


> Limits your bandwidth so you most likely you are disabling HDR. It must be on expanded to get 4K/HDR. Again check your projector stats to see what the source is sending to the projector.


My whole reason for doing this is to make sure I have everything on a setting that it giving me the best pixel density for my perforated screen. On lower resolution videos I am getting a slight moire effect on some colors (like white skies). I was told by the manufacturer to make sure that when it is showing 1080p or 720p video that the e-shift is turned off. Would I be much better off getting the newer Nvidia Shield that has the AI Upscaling? This essentially fills in additional pixels to the image using AI to give it the appearance of a true 4K source thus helping the pixel density. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

SteveS78 said:


> My whole reason for doing this is to make sure I have everything on a setting that it giving me the best pixel density for my perforated screen. On lower resolution videos I am getting a slight moire effect on some colors (like white skies). I was told by the manufacturer to make sure that when it is showing 1080p or 720p video that the e-shift is turned off. Would I be much better off getting the newer Nvidia Shield that has the AI Upscaling? This essentially fills in additional pixels to the image using AI to give it the appearance of a true 4K source thus helping the pixel density.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


The AI upscaling on the newer Shield is just a edge enhancement process. Some like it others don't as it gives the image a processed look like a Darbee. I don't think it will help with moire. Just set the custom resolution to 1080p in the Shield, make sure eshift is disabled and see if it helps. Also try disabling some of the other video enhancements on the projector.


----------



## Rashman

Hi folks, anybody have links to some widely accepted baseline calibration settings? I read the first several pages of the thread but have a hard time searching for specific things (is there still no search-within-thread feature?). I know I'll need to make tweaks based on my personal usage and room, but I'd like to have a good place to start.

For what it's worth, I'm in a light controlled basement cave and I do equal amounts of gaming (Series X), movies, and sports (Comcast 1080p).


----------



## ScudDawg

Rashman said:


> Hi folks, anybody have links to some widely accepted baseline calibration settings? I read the first several pages of the thread but have a hard time searching for specific things (is there still no search-within-thread feature?). I know I'll need to make tweaks based on my personal usage and room, but I'd like to have a good place to start.
> 
> For what it's worth, I'm in a light controlled basement cave and I do equal amounts of gaming (Series X), movies, and sports (Comcast 1080p).


I would advise the spears and munsil for setting brightness and contrast settings for each mode and starting with HDR slider on 8 and leaving the rest of the settings on default, I did the same in my velvet covered room and it is incredible now!


----------



## fredworld

ScudDawg said:


> I would advise the spears and munsil for setting brightness and contrast settings for each mode and starting with HDR slider on 8 and leaving the rest of the settings on default, I did the same in my velvet covered room and it is incredible now!





Rashman said:


> Hi folks, anybody have links to some widely accepted baseline calibration settings? I read the first several pages of the thread but have a hard time searching for specific things (is there still no search-within-thread feature?). I know I'll need to make tweaks based on my personal usage and room, but I'd like to have a good place to start.
> 
> For what it's worth, I'm in a light controlled basement cave and I do equal amounts of gaming (Series X), movies, and sports (Comcast 1080p).


I just posted *this* a day or so ago.


----------



## Rashman

Thank you both!


----------



## fredworld

QUOTE="Rashman, post: 61024996, member: 7556026"]our
Thank you both! 
[/QUOTE]
You're welcome. Here's what a search for calibration discloses:








Search results for query: calibration







www.avsforum.com


----------



## biglen

Rashman said:


> Hi folks, anybody have links to some widely accepted baseline calibration settings? I read the first several pages of the thread but have a hard time searching for specific things (is there still no search-within-thread feature?). I know I'll need to make tweaks based on my personal usage and room, but I'd like to have a good place to start.
> 
> For what it's worth, I'm in a light controlled basement cave and I do equal amounts of gaming (Series X), movies, and sports (Comcast 1080p).


Using someone else's settings is not recommended. The odds that they would look good for you, are slim and none. No 2 setups are the same. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidK442

mpls1981 said:


> Has anyone heard if they are updating this year or if the chip shortage is causing issues with stock for the 5050ub? I've been watching Best Buy and Amazon for months and expecting to have to wait till November to save a few hundred dollars based on the price per camel. However, last week BB went out of stock and now Amazon is down to 5 and doesn't include the "more on the way" tag.


No 5050UB replacements this fall.
Rather than end of life discounts I have seen advertised prices increasing in Canada.
Even refurbs are holding top dollar with sporadic availability.
Reduced supply? Increased demand? Both? Who knows. The manufacturing world in general is still upside down.
A good time to have deep pockets…and short arms.


----------



## eastdigital

DavidK442 said:


> No 5050UB replacements this fall.
> Rather than end of life discounts I have seen advertised prices increasing in Canada.
> Even refurbs are holding top dollar with sporadic availability.
> Reduced supply? Increased demand? Both? Who knows. The manufacturing world in general is still upside down.
> A good time to have deep pockets…and short arms.


Than you for your response. I am in the same boat as OP and can't seem to find one. I too was waiting for sale price and missed several "in-stock" opportunities past spring/summer.


----------



## MannFan

Sorry for noob question, casual here. 5050 I bought a couple years ago finally warned me I need a new bulb. Where’s the best place to buy and what bulb do I need? I see Epson has one for $300~ and see maybe 3rd party ones for $100~… what’s the best advice? Also, will it shut off at 3500 hours? I have 3405 on it apparently.

Many thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.


----------



## fredworld

MannFan said:


> Sorry for noob question, casual here. 5050 I bought a couple years ago finally warned me I need a new bulb. Where’s the best place to buy and what bulb do I need? I see Epson has one for $300~ and see maybe 3rd party ones for $100~… what’s the best advice? Also, will it shut off at 3500 hours? I have 3405 on it apparently.
> 
> Many thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.


I posted* this* a little over a week ago.... Good luck.


----------



## trailblazer

MannFan said:


> Sorry for noob question, casual here. 5050 I bought a couple years ago finally warned me I need a new bulb. Where’s the best place to buy and what bulb do I need? I see Epson has one for $300~ and see maybe 3rd party ones for $100~… what’s the best advice? Also, will it shut off at 3500 hours? I have 3405 on it apparently.
> 
> Many thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.


Always get the Epson projection bulb. The cheap ones are cheaper for a reason.


----------



## fredworld

MannFan said:


> Sorry for noob question, casual here. 5050 I bought a couple years ago finally warned me I need a new bulb. Where’s the best place to buy and what bulb do I need? I see Epson has one for $300~ and see maybe 3rd party ones for $100~… what’s the best advice? Also, will it shut off at 3500 hours? I have 3405 on it apparently.
> 
> Many thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.





trailblazer said:


> Always get the Epson projection bulb. The cheap ones are cheaper for a reason.


If anyone is interested in the full story of my OEM lamp debacle you can read all about it in the links embedded in *this post. *
I agree about sticking with Epson. Generally, a longer warranty period and more reliable manufacturing tolerances. As usual, YMMV.


----------



## biglen

trailblazer said:


> Always get the Epson projection bulb. The cheap ones are cheaper for a reason.


Agreed. Paying $3k for a projector, then cheaping out on a bulb, is like buying a new Ferrari, asking them to take out the 12 cylinder, and putting in a 4 cylinder engine. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DavidK442

Or not getting the dealerships paint sealer and under coating package? 🤭🤪


----------



## DavidK442

@PixelPusher15 
I see in another thread you are contemplating cashing in your 5050 for an older JVC. Any reason in particular?


----------



## RVD26

Is 3500 hours the standard mark where the bulb needs to be replaced? What happens when you surpass 3500 hours without replacing the bulb?


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> Is 3500 hours the standard mark where the bulb needs to be replaced? What happens when you surpass 3500 hours without replacing the bulb?


I plan to change mine at around 3000 hours or when I notice brightness/dimness issues, whichever occurs first. The Epson website, from what I could find, provides no input on your specific question. You might want to contact *Epson Support* directly. The manual advises lamp life is estimated at 5000 hours for LOW and 3500 for HIGH. I use MEDIUM mode so I'm presuming it's somewhere between 5000 and 3500. I have a friend with a Epson 5020 who didn't change his lamp for 12 years with relatively heavy use. He got no indication to "Change the Lamp." He changed the lamp when the image suddenly got dimmer. He didn't check the number of hours when he reset the lamp timer.


----------



## Ricoflashback

DavidK442 said:


> Or not getting the dealerships paint sealer and under coating package? 🤭🤪


***Wow, he's never done this before. He says I can knock $100 off that Trucoat....


----------



## PixelPusher15

DavidK442 said:


> @PixelPusher15
> I see in another thread you are contemplating cashing in your 5050 for an older JVC. Any reason in particular?


Black levels. I looove space sci-fi movies and I just want super black blacks. That thread though has me wonder if I'd be ok with the tradeoffs of going to a JVC (that I could afford) from my Epson. I'm planning a shootout with a RS540 so we shall see...


----------



## Pretorian

ScudDawg said:


> I would advise the spears and munsil for setting brightness and contrast settings for each mode and starting with HDR slider on 8 and leaving the rest of the settings on default, I did the same in my velvet covered room and it is incredible now!


This made me order a copy of the disc finally. I have read the guide several times. I just hooe I manage to do a quick calibration by myself.


----------



## DavidK442

PixelPusher15 said:


> Black levels. I looove space sci-fi movies and I just want super black blacks. That thread though has me wonder if I'd be ok with the tradeoffs of going to a JVC (that I could afford) from my Epson. I'm planning a shootout with a RS540 so we shall see...


Let us know how it turns out. You seem to have a reasonable perspective on these things.


----------



## ShadowBoy

RVD26 said:


> Is 3500 hours the standard mark where the bulb needs to be replaced? What happens when you surpass 3500 hours without replacing the bulb?


The only thing that happens is that you get the "replace bulb" message each time you turn on the projector. I'm about 1500 hours past when the "replace bulb" message first came on and the bulb is still going. I also have used non-Epson bulbs in the past, but they burnt out within a year to 18 months. I've stuck with real Epson bulbs since. In case anyone was wondering, the reason I hadn't replaced the bulb sooner was that I have purchased the Epson 6050 and was finishing my cinema renovation, but didn't want to set up the new projector until the reno was done. As it's turned out the pandemic brought the project to a halt, I've temporarily set up the 6050, decided I'm going to sell it and buy a JVC N7 instead.


----------



## ScudDawg

Pretorian said:


> This made me order a copy of the disc finally. I have read the guide several times. I just hooe I manage to do a quick calibration by myself.


Just keep the room dark, once you get brightness and contrast set, you will love it. The disc lets you set HDR and SDR separately, I use Natural for SDR and it looks great on football games. I run Dynamic for HDR with slider on 8 for most content.


----------



## RVD26

Pretorian said:


> This made me order a copy of the disc finally. I have read the guide several times. I just hooe I manage to do a quick calibration by myself.


Let me know how it works for you. I ordered the disc a while back, but I'm still having trouble following some of it. I'm a newbie to all of this, so a lot of it is over my head.


----------



## rcoe

PixelPusher15 said:


> Black levels. I looove space sci-fi movies and I just want super black blacks. That thread though has me wonder if I'd be ok with the tradeoffs of going to a JVC (that I could afford) from my Epson. I'm planning a shootout with a RS540 so we shall see...



I was in the same boat and after a month or going back and forth I went with the 6050. My biggest fear was buying a 5 year old projector vs. a new one with a full warranty and while I also like dark blacks I really like an image to be bright as well. Seeing all the newer JVC's pop up in the marketplace gave me some regret but I would have still been looking at spending 1k more on a used JVC. 

There was a member very local to you that was selling a clean JVC990.


----------



## Rashman

I assume there are some folks here who use this projector for gaming, but I'm having trouble finding a specific "Game" setting. I'll worry about tuning the image to my liking as needed, but are there any specific settings that will help me know that I'm minimizing input lag? Does lamp power matter for input lag, for example? Other things to watch out for?


----------



## possom1234

Hi all, new 5050 owner... did search the thread on mounts... but still unclear. Will either or both of these mount flush to ceiling with no ceiling plate/downpipe? Will they work for the 5050?

Chief RPA Elite Projector Mount Black RPMAU - Best Buy (better adjustment?)
Chief RPA Universal & Custom Ceiling Projector Mount (parkergwen.com) (I have VIP points from my 5050 purchase i could use towards this)


----------



## Pretorian

How do upu manage contrast on the 6050? I just got the Spears disc together with my Panasonic player but I cant get the clipping correct. I have ti turn the contrast to 0. I cant see the blinking boxes. 
How many do you see?


----------



## fredworld

Pretorian said:


> How do upu manage contrast on the 6050? I just got the Spears disc together with my Panasonic player but I cant get the clipping correct. I have ti turn the contrast to 0. I cant see the blinking boxes.
> How many do you see?


The answer can be complicated. Honestly, it's not likely a question for this thread. Here are *search results* from the Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark thread for contrast. Check out what sspears had to say on contrast.


----------



## 240sxle91

I've had my 5050UB for several months, and it's a big step up from what I used to have. However, there is one feature I either can't get to work, or it doesn't have. On my current TVs and old projector I can/could stretch 4:3 material to fit the 16:9 screen. I was able to do this when using my Firestick and my DVD/Blu-ray players. One example is when I stream Star Trek TNG using my Firestick 4K it shows in its original 4:3 aspect ratio. For as long as I can remember all my widescreen TVs have been able to do a pretty good job of intelligently stretching 4:3 material to the 16:9 screen without making it look really stretched. SO, without getting into the debate of IF I should stretch 4:3 material to 16:9, can anyone help me figure out HOW to do this, or does this projector just not do this?

Thank you!


----------



## fredworld

240sxle91 said:


> I've had my 5050UB for several months, and it's a big step up from what I used to have. However, there is one feature I either can't get to work, or it doesn't have. On my current TVs and old projector I can/could stretch 4:3 material to fit the 16:9 screen. I was able to do this when using my Firestick and my DVD/Blu-ray players. One example is when I stream Star Trek TNG using my Firestick 4K it shows in its original 4:3 aspect ratio. For as long as I can remember all my widescreen TVs have been able to do a pretty good job of intelligently stretching 4:3 material to the 16:9 screen without making it look really stretched. SO, without getting into the debate of IF I should stretch 4:3 material to 16:9, can anyone help me figure out HOW to do this, or does this projector just not do this?
> 
> Thank you!


Judicious use of Zoom, Shift and Blanking will probably get you where you want to be or close to it. Blanking is found in the Menu>Settings. I sometimes use it for variable aspect ratio movies to crop the top and bottom image areas into the "safe" ratio. The Lens setting can be saved to Memory for prompt recall.


----------



## 240sxle91

Thank you very much Fredworld! I didn't know about this feature. I'll give that a try, but if it works like I think it does won't going from 4:3 to 16:9 crop a lot of the 4:3 image to make it fit 16:9? I could see it working well for material that is already in some sort of widescreen ratio, but I would think going from 4:3 to 16:9 a LOT of the image would be cropped. That being said, I haven't tried it, so maybe it'll work. I'll give it a go.

Does this mean the 5050UB isn't capable of doing a simple screen stretch of 4:3 material? If so, that's pretty disappointing.


----------



## fredworld

240sxle91 said:


> Thank you very much Fredworld! I didn't know about this feature. I'll give that a try, but if it works like I think it does won't going from 4:3 to 16:9 crop a lot of the 4:3 image to make it fit 16:9? I could see it working well for material that is already in some sort of widescreen ratio, but I would think going from 4:3 to 16:9 a LOT of the image would be cropped. That being said, I haven't tried it, so maybe it'll work. I'll give it a go.
> 
> Does this mean the 5050UB isn't capable of doing a simple screen stretch of 4:3 material? If so, that's pretty disappointing.


See pages 73 and 74 of the Manual regarding Aspect Ratio. HDMI determines the projected aspect ratio based on the source. 4K images are "normal" mode only. Perhaps your AVP/AVR has aspeat ratio controls. My old Integra DHC-40.2 had the feature your earlier message described.
You'll probably find that much older 4:3 source material is shot for a "safe" screen area to account for TVs that had poor overscan. And yes, "alot of image would be cropped" but often times with 4:3 TV shows the upper and lower portions of 4:3 material is empty space, similarly with older films that often can be cropped from the old Academy 1.37 aspect ratio to 1.78/16:9. 
Having said that, personally, I wouldn't want the likes of the 1933 King Kong, Gone With the Wind, The Adventures of Robin Hood, the 1940 Mark of Zorro and certainly not Casablanca cropped to any degree.
Finally, given the choice of crop vs stretch, I much prefer the proper proportions of objects, people and landscapes than the distorted geometries of a stretch mode. But, obviously, there are others who feel otherwise.
I hope this helps.


----------



## Pretorian

fredworld said:


> The answer can be complicated. Honestly, it's not likely a question for this thread. Here are *search results* from the Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark thread for contrast. Check out what sspears had to say on contrast.


Yes and I have tried that but not got an answer that works for me. I just want to know if any of you with Epson projectors have got it to work? It just clips everything.


----------



## rekbones

Pretorian said:


> Yes and I have tried that but not got an answer that works for me. I just want to know if any of you with Epson projectors have got it to work? It just clips everything.


No the projector doesn't have the feature you describe. None of the projectors I have owned have had it. I have had some older TV's that had that feature but it has been eliminated from any of the newer models I currently own. It apparently was popular during the transition period going from 4:3 to 16:9 but has fallen out of favor for most manufactures.


----------



## ScudDawg

Pretorian said:


> Yes and I have tried that but not got an answer that works for me. I just want to know if any of you with Epson projectors have got it to work? It just clips everything.


I always set brightness, then contrast, make sure you are in the right color space and check your HDR slider if you are doing the HDR portion of the disc.


----------



## Pretorian

ScudDawg said:


> I always set brightness, then contrast, make sure you are in the right color space and check your HDR slider if you are doing the HDR portion of the disc.


Thank you. I tried in that order too. But I will start from scratch again. Read the guide, turn off everything with Tone Mapping and stuff on my Panasonic player.


----------



## fredworld

Pretorian said:


> Thank you. I tried in that order too. But I will start from scratch again. Read the guide, turn off everything with Tone Mapping and stuff on my Panasonic player.


Everything is a compromise. Yes, turn off all the processing. The S&M disc isn't designed for projectors. So, I select 600 nits, the lowest available on the disc, for my subjective calibration. I also experiment with the PJ's Gamma settings to see where I get the most control in brightness range from the patterns and demo material. From there I proceed to the PJ's Iris settings (which I like at 0) and again see how the brightness and contrast patterns respond. The best I can get in SDR is maybe the last few contrast bars clipped and I think two of the square boxes have discernible interior boxes. In HDR the boxes are all clipped. My Sony 800 clips fewer bars than my Panasonic 820 so I have different memory settings for each player. Overall, it's an iterative process that bears slightly different results as patterns are revisited. I use the demo material to adjust color and tint (although I've also used the folded blue filter in the past but stopped after being advised to discontinue using it). Doing it this way yields, for me, highly acceptable shadow detail, good blacks (sometimes rich, deep black depending on content quality) and detailed images with good color saturation, although I can't see the number in two of the color dot patterns. I have some color blindness with red and green but my wife, who has superior color recognition (even better after her cataract surgeries) can't see the number in the same two. Perhaps a pro calibration can get me better results, but for now I'm happy.
I hope this helps.


----------



## 240sxle91

Thank you to those who chimed in on changing/stretching the aspect ratios. I did find a work around, but the results are not worth it to me. If I change my Firestick 4K to display 1080 instead of 4K the projector will allow me to zoom/fill the material. However, it does this in a horrible way. It just stretches or zooms the picture. On my Samsung TVs (they are between 8 and 10 years old) the image is stretched in an intelligent manner. It leaves most of the middle of the picture alone, and stretches the outside corners. When done this way it actually works really well. Not perfect mind you, but it does a really good job. Unfortunately, it seems like they've given up adding these features to today's TVs and projectors. I know some of you question why I would even want to use it. I agree, watching Casablanca stretched is just plain wrong. However, watching 90's TV shows stretched is just fine with me when it's done the right way, and then I don't need to worry about potential burn in (or lack of) from the big black bars on the side of the screen. Again, thank you to everyone for helping out, and I really appreciate it!


----------



## rollon1980

Luminated67 said:


> Finally got round to watching a 4K movie tonight after learning the 1.03 update included a tweak to the e-shift where the claim is it now shifts 3 times instead of twice but the panel alignment must be turned off. So to my surprise when you move extremely close to the screen yep the e-shift is indeed difference and the end result when you shift back to your regular sitting position is a crisper yet smoother images that’s more like a proper Native 4K.
> 
> I have always been impressed by my Epson but it’s now even better.
> 
> StarTrek Beyond 4K
> View attachment 3173865
> 
> This transfer is way more pixelated than the capture with the iPhone which in turn isn’t as good as the naked eye.


YAAAAAY! I’m sorry we weren’t shouting this from the rooftops first time around. Glad you got it working!


----------



## Luminated67

rollon1980 said:


> YAAAAAY! I’m sorry we weren’t shouting this from the rooftops first time around. Glad you got it working!


Yeah it’s brilliant with 4K, was wondering how it will make 1080P stuff that the Blu Ray Player upscales to 4K look like.

Bought the movie NOBODY on just bluray and it’s very grainy, will check it out tonight and see it there’s any difference.


----------



## Pretorian

fredworld said:


> Everything is a compromise. Yes, turn off all the processing. The S&M disc isn't designed for projectors. So, I select 600 nits, the lowest available on the disc, for my subjective calibration. I also experiment with the PJ's Gamma settings to see where I get the most control in brightness range from the patterns and demo material. From there I proceed to the PJ's Iris settings (which I like at 0) and again see how the brightness and contrast patterns respond. The best I can get in SDR is maybe the last few contrast bars clipped and I think two of the square boxes have discernible interior boxes. In HDR the boxes are all clipped. My Sony 800 clips fewer bars than my Panasonic 820 so I have different memory settings for each player. Overall, it's an iterative process that bears slightly different results as patterns are revisited. I use the demo material to adjust color and tint (although I've also used the folded blue filter in the past but stopped after being advised to discontinue using it). Doing it this way yields, for me, highly acceptable shadow detail, good blacks (sometimes rich, deep black depending on content quality) and detailed images with good color saturation, although I can't see the number in two of the color dot patterns. I have some color blindness with red and green but my wife, who has superior color recognition (even better after her cataract surgeries) can't see the number in the same two. Perhaps a pro calibration can get me better results, but for now I'm happy.
> I hope this helps.


Yes! This IS helpful. The part with the "iterative process" since I have gone into this with:
Read basic guide, set the bumbers, Brightness, Contrast... DONE!.
But as you say it can differ from time to time when you go back to a setting since there can be some stray lights from the outside one time and another time it might be a little darker. 
I will continue with this.


----------



## rollon1980

For those who are still on the fence with this.
First photo at 60Hz, second photo at 24Hz.
You can see that the 24hz image reproduces the text much more clearly and the letters are more separate / better delineated. Look at the word fox especially!


----------



## DavidK442

I have seen that text test pattern often, but please remind me what I am looking at. Is it a 1080p or 4K image being displayed with the 3x pixel shift?


----------



## rollon1980

DavidK442 said:


> I have seen that text test pattern often, but please remind me what I am looking at. Is it a 1080p or 4K image being displayed with the 3x pixel shift?


Yup, 4K image rendered to 4K video at 60Hz and 24hz and played back through a 4K blu ray player. I wanted to devise this test so we can see the playback difference with video as opposed to just still images.

60hz image is pixel shifting 2x. 24hz image is pixel shifting 3x and produces a much clearer image. That picture was taken at the same distance from the screen and both were in focus. Cheers!


----------



## rollon1980

PixelPusher15 said:


> Black levels. I looove space sci-fi movies and I just want super black blacks. That thread though has me wonder if I'd be ok with the tradeoffs of going to a JVC (that I could afford) from my Epson. I'm planning a shootout with a RS540 so we shall see...


In the meantime, for very dark sci fi, try the following:

*SDR*: natural picture mode, medium lamp, manual iris closed down to somewhere between -10 and -5 dependent on screen size (-7 is a good spot if in doubt). Auto iris on high speed.

*HDR*: natural picture mode, high lamp, manual iris at -5, auto iris on high speed. HDR slider at 3-4.

To get more balanced contrast performance out of this projector, it is better to run in medium lamp and close down the iris more if you guys are using eco mode at the moment.


----------



## Pretorian

rollon1980 said:


> Yup, 4K image rendered to 4K video at 60Hz and 24hz and played back through a 4K blu ray player. I wanted to devise this test so we can see the playback difference with video as opposed to just still images.
> 
> 60hz image is pixel shifting 2x. 24hz image is pixel shifting 3x and produces a much clearer image. That picture was taken at the same distance from the screen and both were in focus. Cheers!


I have been following this 60/24hz thing but how do I change that? Is it on the projector, on my Panasonic player or does the physical UHD disc have to be in the correct Hz?


----------



## Alaric

Pretorian said:


> I have been following this 60/24hz thing but how do I change that? Is it on the projector, on my Panasonic player or does the physical UHD disc have to be in the correct Hz?



Ensure that panel alignment is off and you are on the latest firmware (0.3 will actually do) and give it a 24P signal (check projector info if in doubt) - Most UHD discs are and some media players with match framerate on certain services will also use 24P


----------



## Alaric

Just in case you peeps haven't seen - World Exclusive In The AWE Village At EI Live 2021!

_The Epson Demo Room headlines with a *Global Launch*, being the first ever showing of the company’s newest *Home Cinema Projector*. We can’t share details here but EI Live! 2021 visitors will be the first integrators in the world to see the new product that will AWE says *will set a new benchmark of performance at its price*_ 

Not sure quite what this means, if MUCH at all - But I _THINK_ it's first actual announcement of Epson and new tech in a fair while???

The show is mid next week (29/30 Sept 2021)


----------



## ScudDawg

Pretorian said:


> Thank you. I tried in that order too. But I will start from scratch again. Read the guide, turn off everything with Tone Mapping and stuff on my Panasonic player.


I also run iris OFF on all my settings, not sure if that would help you out, but I wanted to mention that.


----------



## Pretorian

Alaric said:


> Ensure that panel alignment is off and you are on the latest firmware (0.3 will actually do) and give it a 24P signal (check projector info if in doubt) - Most UHD discs are and some media players with match framerate on certain services will also use 24P


Is this correct?
My version Main and Video2 ends with ….103
Here is when I start a movie.


----------



## fredworld

Pretorian said:


> Is this correct?
> My version Main and Video2 ends with ….103
> Here is when I start a movie.
> View attachment 3178237


AFAIK, the latest FW is 1.04. 
Updating it will update HDMI 1 but HDMI 2 remains at 1.03.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Well I sure received an interesting response asking about the 24hz 3x shift:



> This level of detail about the 4Ke (Pixel-Shift device) has not been shared with us by Product Marketing or our Design Engineers.
> Furthermore because this is a key component of our 4Ke technology we suspect that the engineers would not openly share the info with us to share with you, instead quoting company confidential information.
> 
> Having said that, yes the 4Ke device oscillates at a speed relative to the input signal refresh rate, based on my understanding of the technology the device is already set to oscillate at the optimum speed for each signal refresh rate input, we don't believe that the engineers would develop a firmware to "over-clock" the 4Ke device, or put additional stress on the device.
> We think it is a bust and this did not change!
> 
> The FW release notes indicate that there are fixes for the way the Image processors deal with a bad or attenuated signal so that it is not registered as an internal signal processing error.
> 
> Oct. 5, 2020 1.04 <Change specification>
> Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error.
> Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected.
> 
> This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it.


This reinforces my belief that marketing/release notes aren’t directly in line with what the engineers may or may not have done. It also says that the pixel shifting rate is impacted by refresh rate but this has always been the case. Maybe they just improved the shifting and therefore it was just a minor change and not noteworthy but us pixel peepers noticed it. In any case, it is interesting.


----------



## Alaric

Pretorian said:


> Is this correct?
> My version Main and Video2 ends with ….103
> Here is when I start a movie.


Should do it. Though check your panel alignment is off - To be honest, it's a nice little boost, a shift from x2 to x3 - Slightly sharper, slightly smoother image. This also depends on your viewing distance as does the whole pixel shifting vs native 4k as at typical viewing distances the Mk1 eyeball becomes a limiting factor - It's a little like watching a good bluray vs watching a good UHD, but less so


----------



## Decibal destroyer

How's everyone doing? I'm pretty much new to this forum. I'm not sure if I should be asking questions here. So I have a few question about the epson 5050ub. I'll tell you a little bit my room and setup. My room is painted like a medium grey color. It's not real dark but not light either. Also I have 3 diy acoustic panels 18x48 along both side walls and 2 on the back wallSo there is really no grey really even showing because I have alot of panels up that is covering most of the walls. My ceiling is painted a flat black I have 2 windows in there but there is blinds and black out curtains so I have no light coming through at all. I have 4 ceiling pot lights that can be dimmed or turned off. I also have dark grey carpets and black trim. Trust me its dark in there when projector is off. I'm using the epson 8350 now and I'm itching for an upgrade. I forgot to mention that my room is 12ft by 12ft. Yes I know it's square and that's a no no but it is what it is. I can only fit a 92 inch screen with the epson projectors. They both have the same throw ratio. I know my epson is old and I know that the 5050 has better black levels but is it going to be a night in day difference. The reason I'm asking us because I know that the 5050 is like 2600 lumens. In my thought process I'm thinking that the epson 5050 is going to be just to bright 4 my small room. Like the projector I have now is bright and what I'm thinking is that the light from my projector is hitting my screen then hitting the walls the going back to the screen. I don't know if my thoughts are right. I just don't know. I don't know if I should get a projector with less lumens output or if I should just squash the whole projector idea and just go with a 85 inch vizio h1 or a Sony x900h. I mean going from a 92 to a 85 ain't 0a huge difference but 92 inch is still like 17% larger then an 85. I was also thinking of going with a benq 3550 but I just don't know what to do. I hope someone on here could give me some good input. Sorry for the book that I wrote. Looking forward to reading comments thank you!


----------



## Luminated67

OK, compared the movie which I previously watched as 1080P and now tried it upscaled to 4K on the Panasonic UB420 to engaged the 3 x pixel shift.

Previously the grain on the movie was very noticeable but though still there it seem less in your face than before. So maybe in future I’ll watch everything on the Panasonic now. And based on this image from Monster Hunter that was just BluRay 1080P who needs 4K.


----------



## fredworld

Decibal destroyer said:


> How's everyone doing? I'm pretty much new to this forum. I'm not sure if I should be asking questions here. So I have a few question about the epson 5050ub. I'll tell you a little bit my room and setup. My room is painted like a medium grey color. It's not real dark but not light either. Also I have 3 diy acoustic panels 18x48 along both side walls and 2 on the back wallSo there is really no grey really even showing because I have alot of panels up that is covering most of the walls. My ceiling is painted a flat black I have 2 windows in there but there is blinds and black out curtains so I have no light coming through at all. I have 4 ceiling pot lights that can be dimmed or turned off. I also have dark grey carpets and black trim. Trust me its dark in there when projector is off. I'm using the epson 8350 now and I'm itching for an upgrade. I forgot to mention that my room is 12ft by 12ft. Yes I know it's square and that's a no no but it is what it is. I can only fit a 92 inch screen with the epson projectors. They both have the same throw ratio. I know my epson is old and I know that the 5050 has better black levels but is it going to be a night in day difference. The reason I'm asking us because I know that the 5050 is like 2600 lumens. In my thought process I'm thinking that the epson 5050 is going to be just to bright 4 my small room. Like the projector I have now is bright and what I'm thinking is that the light from my projector is hitting my screen then hitting the walls the going back to the screen. I don't know if my thoughts are right. I just don't know. I don't know if I should get a projector with less lumens output or if I should just squash the whole projector idea and just go with a 85 inch vizio h1 or a Sony x900h. I mean going from a 92 to a 85 ain't 0a huge difference but 92 inch is still like 17% larger then an 85. I was also thinking of going with a benq 3550 but I just don't know what to do. I hope someone on here could give me some good input. Sorry for the book that I wrote. Looking forward to reading comments thank you!


I can't comment on your 8350 or the BenQ you mentioned, but the Epson 5050 has significant adjustments for range of light output. Personally, I wouldn't be concerned about it being too bright for your room. I think that any TV would most likely out-brighten almost any consumer grade projector.


----------



## biglen

Pretorian said:


> I have been following this 60/24hz thing but how do I change that? Is it on the projector, on my Panasonic player or does the physical UHD disc have to be in the correct Hz?


Just remember, it doesn't work on all projectors. I see ZERO difference with panel alignment turned on or off. I think a lot of people are chasing something that might not even be there on their projector. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Decibal destroyer

fredworld said:


> I can't comment on your 8350 or the BenQ you mentioned, but the Epson 5050 has significant adjustments for range of light output. Personally, I wouldn't be concerned about it being too bright for your room. I think that any TV would most likely out-brighten almost any consumer grade projector.


I can agree on tv being brighter then any projector but what you have to think about is that any light that is in a room will have a worse affect on a projector screen vs a tv


----------



## DaGamePimp

PixelPusher15 said:


> Well I sure received an interesting response asking about the 24hz 3x shift:
> 
> 
> 
> This reinforces my belief that marketing/release notes aren’t directly in line with what the engineers may or may not have done. It also says that the pixel shifting rate is impacted by refresh rate but this has always been the case. Maybe they just improved the shifting and therefore it was just a minor change and not noteworthy but us pixel peepers noticed it. In any case, it is interesting.


Wow, who could have known... 

- Jason


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> Wow, who could have known...
> 
> - Jason


Haha! Honestly, Epson doesn’t share information with their own regional offices, why would they share it with the public? We are shocked! Not! 😂

Funny they only quoted firmware 1.04 changes. The change was made in 1.03. Not that they would tell us anything regardless. They are a bit funny.


The facts remain… this was not how 24hz looked on original firmware and it’s resolving more detail. It sure does not look like “tightening up” the pixel shifting as the pixel structure is different. Ridiculous. I don’t care if their CEO denies it and swears on a Bible. 🤣


----------



## rollon1980

Alaric said:


> Just in case you peeps haven't seen - World Exclusive In The AWE Village At EI Live 2021!
> 
> _The Epson Demo Room headlines with a *Global Launch*, being the first ever showing of the company’s newest *Home Cinema Projector*. We can’t share details here but EI Live! 2021 visitors will be the first integrators in the world to see the new product that will AWE says *will set a new benchmark of performance at its price*_
> 
> Not sure quite what this means, if MUCH at all - But I _THINK_ it's first actual announcement of Epson and new tech in a fair while???
> 
> The show is mid next week (29/30 Sept 2021)


Bit if a teaser from their pro line:





EB-PU1008BNL - Epson Australia


EB-PU1008BNL, EB-PU1008BNL, V11HA33853BU, Installation projector Laser light source 8,500 lumens light output 8,500 lumens colour light output WUXGA resolution 4K enhancement HDR10 support Built-in NFC Optional external camera, Take Image Quality to New Levels with Epson's Game...




www.epson.com.au





They are quoting double the dynamic contrast numbers than their lamp based units, looks like there’s polarisers in front of the LCD chips (while laser is also polarized hence possibly the doubling of contrast numbers).

There’s more explanation about scene adaptive gamma down the page! They mention clipped whites which only occurs in HDR unless you have the projector set up incorrectly. It sure looks like at least rudimentary DTM, not just gamma adjustment based on luminance level. Also supporting this theory is that gamma change for the very bright scene. Gamma adjustment for laser dimming only would not affect that scene whatsoever. But we’ll find out soon enough.


----------



## bungi43

I have the 6050UB. Sometimes with a bright background (like the sky, etc) I get some slight flickering. Can see it in several picture settings. 
I feel like a time or two I've shut the projector off, let it sit for a bit and turned it back on and it was better. Last night (watching Black Widow) I could not get it to stop. 

My wife does not notice it, but I do. Anyone else have this issue?


----------



## rollon1980

bungi43 said:


> I have the 6050UB. Sometimes with a bright background (like the sky, etc) I get some slight flickering. Can see it in several picture settings.
> I feel like a time or two I've shut the projector off, let it sit for a bit and turned it back on and it was better. Last night (watching Black Widow) I could not get it to stop.
> 
> My wife does not notice it, but I do. Anyone else have this issue?


If you are using eco lamp, turn it to medium lamp - at least for a few hours. Lamp flickering can happen when a lamp is run at low voltage for extended periods.


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> OK, compared the movie which I previously watched as 1080P and now tried it upscaled to 4K on the Panasonic UB420 to engaged the 3 x pixel shift.
> 
> Previously the grain on the movie was very noticeable but though still there it seem less in your face than before. So maybe in future I’ll watch everything on the Panasonic now. And based on this image from Monster Hunter that was just BluRay 1080P who needs 4K.
> View attachment 3178316


Can you give me the steps on how to make sure this works?
I have the 420 too so what settings did you turn on or off? And what did you change on the Epson? Are you running 103 or 104?


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Can you give me the steps on how to make sure this works?
> I have the 420 too so what settings did you turn on or off? And what did you change on the Epson? Are you running 103 or 104?


I normally used my Sony X700 to play standard BluRays and set it's resolution to 1080P so it doesn't upscale, the Panasonic automatically upscales everything to 4K so if you only have the UB420 then it's automatically doing it anyway.


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> I normally used my Sony X700 to play standard BluRays and set it's resolution to 1080P so it doesn't upscale, the Panasonic automatically upscales everything to 4K so if you only have the UB420 then it's automatically doing it anyway.


Oh sorry. I thought you were walking about the 3x shift.


----------



## Luminated67

Pretorian said:


> Oh sorry. I thought you were walking about the 3x shift.


I was talking about the 3xShift, the Epson only does this when feed a 4K signal that's 24frames so if you have a 1080p disc and upscale it to 4K the Epson does the same 3xShift.


----------



## bungi43

rollon1980 said:


> If you are using eco lamp, turn it to medium lamp - at least for a few hours. Lamp flickering can happen when a lamp is run at low voltage for extended periods.


I'll give this a try. Thank you!


----------



## Pretorian

Luminated67 said:


> I was talking about the 3xShift, the Epson only does this when feed a 4K signal that's 24frames so if you have a 1080p disc and upscale it to 4K the Epson does the same 3xShift.


I might make this harder then it is. So if I play UHD on my Panasonic I dont have to do anything?
But on the Epson I have to turn of panel alignment? Thats it?


----------



## fredworld

bungi43 said:


> I have the 6050UB. Sometimes with a bright background (like the sky, etc) I get some slight flickering. Can see it in several picture settings.
> I feel like a time or two I've shut the projector off, let it sit for a bit and turned it back on and it was better. Last night (watching Black Widow) I could not get it to stop.
> 
> My wife does not notice it, but I do. Anyone else have this issue?





rollon1980 said:


> If you are using eco lamp, turn it to medium lamp - at least for a few hours. Lamp flickering can happen when a lamp is run at low voltage for extended periods.


It's a fairly common issue. See *these search results.*


----------



## Alaric

Pretorian said:


> I might make this harder then it is. So if I play UHD on my Panasonic I dont have to do anything?
> But on the Epson I have to turn of panel alignment? Thats it?



Use projector info in the Epson menu - If you have 4K, 24P (3840 x 2160, 23.98Hz, progressive) showing and you are on FW 1.03 or 1.04 and have panel alignment off then you should be seeing the x3 shift. - This is one of the most useful tools for trouble shooting things as it says what the projector is seeing rather than what people THINK the projector should be seeing 

Most UHDs are 24p (there are a few with 60hz but rare). Some media players will also match frame rate with some content.


----------



## arnemetis

Decibal destroyer said:


> How's everyone doing? I'm pretty much new to this forum. I'm not sure if I should be asking questions here. So I have a few question about the epson 5050ub. I'll tell you a little bit my room and setup. My room is painted like a medium grey color. It's not real dark but not light either. Also I have 3 diy acoustic panels 18x48 along both side walls and 2 on the back wallSo there is really no grey really even showing because I have alot of panels up that is covering most of the walls. My ceiling is painted a flat black I have 2 windows in there but there is blinds and black out curtains so I have no light coming through at all. I have 4 ceiling pot lights that can be dimmed or turned off. I also have dark grey carpets and black trim. Trust me its dark in there when projector is off. I'm using the epson 8350 now and I'm itching for an upgrade. I forgot to mention that my room is 12ft by 12ft. Yes I know it's square and that's a no no but it is what it is. I can only fit a 92 inch screen with the epson projectors. They both have the same throw ratio. I know my epson is old and I know that the 5050 has better black levels but is it going to be a night in day difference. The reason I'm asking us because I know that the 5050 is like 2600 lumens. In my thought process I'm thinking that the epson 5050 is going to be just to bright 4 my small room. Like the projector I have now is bright and what I'm thinking is that the light from my projector is hitting my screen then hitting the walls the going back to the screen. I don't know if my thoughts are right. I just don't know. I don't know if I should get a projector with less lumens output or if I should just squash the whole projector idea and just go with a 85 inch vizio h1 or a Sony x900h. I mean going from a 92 to a 85 ain't 0a huge difference but 92 inch is still like 17% larger then an 85. I was also thinking of going with a benq 3550 but I just don't know what to do. I hope someone on here could give me some good input. Sorry for the book that I wrote. Looking forward to reading comments thank you!


I have a pretty similar setup to yours. I have a 12' x 12' room and 100" screen with no windows, dark purple walls, black ceiling tiles, and a gray floor. I came from a BenQ HT1075 so it was a big boost for me. The black levels are great and I don't think it's too bright on my standard settings (medium lamp & the Natural preset.) You'll appreciate the extra lumens for HDR content, especially if you engage the color filter which basically cuts them in half. I've actually been experimenting with watching HDR stuff in Natural and the difference in colors is not that noticeable to me, but the gf really likes how much brighter the image can be. Here's a bad panoramic photo of my setup, and a terrible attempt at capturing the black levels with my LG V40 phone.


----------



## bungi43

fredworld said:


> It's a fairly common issue. See *these search results.*


Thanks @fredworld


----------



## MannFan

Ok. I've had my 5050 for nearly 3 years and I still don't understand the HDR thing and I need to figure it out, at least for Disney+, NETFLIX & my PS5.

I was watching Star Wars and thought it was kind of dark but my bulb needs to be replaced and I finally replaced it and it still looked the same. I decided to rewind to a moment in the movie when I remembered it was dark and figured out again that the image displayed in the rewind or fast forward preview isn't subject to HDR (I think?) and looks MUCH BRIGHTER. Here is what I mean, the above image is the darker movie (which may not look it) and the below is the preview of the same scene which looks much brighter (but wonky due to the white text light and other stuff);



















So, I went into menu and turned HDR from auto to SDR and tried the other options.. SDR looks awful. HDR and HDR10 or whatever the other option is, I forget, look darker.

So, I'm using an Amazon Fire Stick through a Denon S750H to my 5050. I'm using what generic HDMI cables you'd buy at Best Buy that's the cheapest version. Do I have optimal settings going (looking past preferences with brightness settings and stuff that is)? Should I be using my PS5 and better HDMI cables, for instance?

Sorry, I think I asked about this years ago and I just was confused by the answers and all that. Thanks in advance. I appreciate all the help.


----------



## Decibal destroyer

arnemetis said:


> I have a pretty similar setup to yours. I have a 12' x 12' room and 100" screen with no windows, dark purple walls, black ceiling tiles, and a gray floor. I came from a BenQ HT1075 so it was a big boost for me. The black levels are great and I don't think it's too bright on my standard settings (medium lamp & the Natural preset.) You'll appreciate the extra lumens for HDR content, especially if you engage the color filter which basically cuts them in half. I've actually been experimenting with watching HDR stuff in Natural and the difference in colors is not that noticeable to me, but the gf really likes how much brighter the image can be. Here's a bad panoramic photo of my setup, and a terrible attempt at capturing the black levels with my LG V40 phone.
> View attachment 3178579
> View attachment 3178580


Thanks for your reply!


----------



## biglen

MannFan said:


> Ok. I've had my 5050 for nearly 3 years and I still don't understand the HDR thing and I need to figure it out, at least for Disney+, NETFLIX & my PS5.
> 
> I was watching Star Wars and thought it was kind of dark but my bulb needs to be replaced and I finally replaced it and it still looked the same. I decided to rewind to a moment in the movie when I remembered it was dark and figured out again that the image displayed in the rewind or fast forward preview isn't subject to HDR (I think?) and looks MUCH BRIGHTER. Here is what I mean, the above image is the darker movie (which may not look it) and the below is the preview of the same scene which looks much brighter (but wonky due to the white text light and other stuff);
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I went into menu and turned HDR from auto to SDR and tried the other options.. SDR looks awful. HDR and HDR10 or whatever the other option is, I forget, look darker.
> 
> So, I'm using an Amazon Fire Stick through a Denon S750H to my 5050. I'm using what generic HDMI cables you'd buy at Best Buy that's the cheapest version. Do I have optimal settings going (looking past preferences with brightness settings and stuff that is)? Should I be using my PS5 and better HDMI cables, for instance?
> 
> Sorry, I think I asked about this years ago and I just was confused by the answers and all that. Thanks in advance. I appreciate all the help.


Is it a 4k Fire Stick? If so, you need an HDMI cable capable of handling 4k signals. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MannFan

biglen said:


> Is it a 4k Fire Stick? If so, you need an HDMI cable capable of handling 4k signals.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


It’s the 4K fire stick but the HDMI cable running from my receiver to my projector just says Amazon Basic cable so it’s probably not the best. But I googled about it and saw a bunch of things that said “normal” HDMI cables can handle 4K? Can I get a clarification here? I guess tomorrow I can just pick up a for sure 4K cable and see.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## rollon1980

MannFan said:


> Ok. I've had my 5050 for nearly 3 years and I still don't understand the HDR thing and I need to figure it out, at least for Disney+, NETFLIX & my PS5.
> 
> I was watching Star Wars and thought it was kind of dark but my bulb needs to be replaced and I finally replaced it and it still looked the same. I decided to rewind to a moment in the movie when I remembered it was dark and figured out again that the image displayed in the rewind or fast forward preview isn't subject to HDR (I think?) and looks MUCH BRIGHTER. Here is what I mean, the above image is the darker movie (which may not look it) and the below is the preview of the same scene which looks much brighter (but wonky due to the white text light and other stuff);
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I went into menu and turned HDR from auto to SDR and tried the other options.. SDR looks awful. HDR and HDR10 or whatever the other option is, I forget, look darker.
> 
> So, I'm using an Amazon Fire Stick through a Denon S750H to my 5050. I'm using what generic HDMI cables you'd buy at Best Buy that's the cheapest version. Do I have optimal settings going (looking past preferences with brightness settings and stuff that is)? Should I be using my PS5 and better HDMI cables, for instance?
> 
> Sorry, I think I asked about this years ago and I just was confused by the answers and all that. Thanks in advance. I appreciate all the help.


Are you using the HDR slider? Press HDR button on remote and increase the tone mapping slider to suit the brightness level you need. 3-4 is equivalent to SDR but with some highlight preservation.


----------



## biglen

MannFan said:


> Ok. I've had my 5050 for nearly 3 years and I still don't understand the HDR thing and I need to figure it out, at least for Disney+, NETFLIX & my PS5.
> 
> I was watching Star Wars and thought it was kind of dark but my bulb needs to be replaced and I finally replaced it and it still looked the same. I decided to rewind to a moment in the movie when I remembered it was dark and figured out again that the image displayed in the rewind or fast forward preview isn't subject to HDR (I think?) and looks MUCH BRIGHTER. Here is what I mean, the above image is the darker movie (which may not look it) and the below is the preview of the same scene which looks much brighter (but wonky due to the white text light and other stuff);
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I went into menu and turned HDR from auto to SDR and tried the other options.. SDR looks awful. HDR and HDR10 or whatever the other option is, I forget, look darker.
> 
> So, I'm using an Amazon Fire Stick through a Denon S750H to my 5050. I'm using what generic HDMI cables you'd buy at Best Buy that's the cheapest version. Do I have optimal settings going (looking past preferences with brightness settings and stuff that is)? Should I be using my PS5 and better HDMI cables, for instance?
> 
> Sorry, I think I asked about this years ago and I just was confused by the answers and all that. Thanks in advance. I appreciate all the help.


Also make sure your 4k Signal Format is set to Enhanced on the Denon. The default setting is Standard.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MannFan

rollon1980 said:


> Are you using the HDR slider? Press HDR button on remote and increase the tone mapping slider to suit the brightness level you need. 3-4 is equivalent to SDR but with some highlight preservation.





biglen said:


> Also make sure your 4k Signal Format is set to Enhanced on the Denon. The default setting is Standard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I want to ****ing kill everyone. 3 years. For 3 damn years I’ve been watching stuff dimmer and possibly less good looking than I could have. I had the Denon setting on standard. Don’t know how much difference that made because I did it at the same time as the HDR slider bar and holy ****. The amount of difference that made was like I just bought a new projector. I am so happy and so so mad. I had no reference so for 3 years I thought it looked good and it did per se but.. it could have been SO much better.

What a lesson to learn. Read the manual and check settings and stuff.

Anyway, I owe you guys a debt of gratitude that I’ll never be able to repay. You are gentleman and scholars.

The pics don’t do it justice because the first, it was so dim in my room the iPhone had to do the 2 second exposure thing but the 2nd was no exposure and it just looks so much crisper. I am so mad.


----------



## biglen

MannFan said:


> It’s the 4K fire stick but the HDMI cable running from my receiver to my projector just says Amazon Basic cable so it’s probably not the best. But I googled about it and saw a bunch of things that said “normal” HDMI cables can handle 4K? Can I get a clarification here? I guess tomorrow I can just pick up a for sure 4K cable and see.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


This, from the Denon thread:

However, if you are passing a 4k/HDCP 2.2 video signal thru the AVR, you will need to use the newer "Premium" certified 4k/18gbps HDMI cables.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## RVD26

MannFan said:


> I want to **ing kill everyone. 3 years. For 3 damn years I’ve been watching stuff dimmer and possibly less good looking than I could have. I had the Denon setting on standard. Don’t know how much difference that made because I did it at the same time as the HDR slider bar and holy **. The amount of difference that made was like I just bought a new projector. I am so happy and so so mad. I had no reference so for 3 years I thought it looked good and it did per se but.. it could have been SO much better.
> 
> What a lesson to learn. Read the manual and check settings and stuff.
> 
> Anyway, I owe you guys a debt of gratitude that I’ll never be able to repay. You are gentleman and scholars.
> 
> The pics don’t do it justice because the first, it was so dim in my room the iPhone had to do the 2 second exposure thing but the 2nd was no exposure and it just looks so much crisper. I am so mad.


Just realized my Denon receiver too was set to 'Standard'. Just changed it to 'Enhanced' and will test it out later tonight to see if there are any noticeable changes.


----------



## Tiberus

I’ve been considering making a big projector upgrade and all signs have been pointing to the 5050ub. One lingering question I have is regarding reports of judder that I’ve seen in this thread. There are enough of them for me to wonder if there is 3:2 pulldown happening with 24p source material. I never would have thought a manufacturer would do this if they made their cinema projector support a 24p HDMI signal, but then I saw the LG thread, so now I’m wondering about the epson as well.

I’m sure someone here has run a test pattern to objectively test for this but I haven’t been able to find anything. In the judder reports it’s also not clear if their HDMI source is running at 24p or something else, or if their “judder” is just 24p stutter and they’re used to frame interpolation or something, so there could be other explanations for what is happening. Does anyone have some insight on this? Thanks


----------



## biglen

RVD26 said:


> Just realized my Denon receiver too was set to 'Standard'. Just changed it to 'Enhanced' and will test it out later tonight to see if there are any noticeable changes.


From what I've read, you aren't getting full HDR unless it's set to Enhanced. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## MannFan

biglen said:


> This, from the Denon thread:
> 
> However, if you are passing a 4k/HDCP 2.2 video signal thru the AVR, you will need to use the newer "Premium" certified 4k/18gbps HDMI cables.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Will pick some up today. If I can tell a noticeable difference.. let’s just say I am not going to be a happy camper.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## biglen

MannFan said:


> Will pick some up today. If I can tell a noticeable difference.. let’s just say I am not going to be a happy camper.
> 
> Thanks for the info.


Either way, you should be using premium cables. Don't overpay for those Monster Cables. Amazon has Premium cables that are great quality, for much less than Monster. If you need a cable longer than 15', then look for an "active" cable. 

Amazon Basics Premium-Certified Braided HDMI Cable (18Gpbs, 4K/60Hz) - 3 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08224P2J...abc_3M1ZGWPR2SBMTGH7SSXA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## bungi43

RVD26 said:


> Just realized my Denon receiver too was set to 'Standard'. Just changed it to 'Enhanced' and will test it out later tonight to see if there are any noticeable changes.


I have a Denon 6200W. Just went down to see if mine was as well, but I don't see that option anywhere. Not sure how to find it on the 6200W. What model do you have?


----------



## RVD26

bungi43 said:


> I have a Denon 6200W. Just went down to see if mine was as well, but I don't see that option anywhere. Not sure how to find it on the 6200W. What model do you have?


X6500H. Try pressing the 'Setup' button and looking under video options.


----------



## biglen

bungi43 said:


> I have a Denon 6200W. Just went down to see if mine was as well, but I don't see that option anywhere. Not sure how to find it on the 6200W. What model do you have?


The option didn't start until the 2017 models. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## bungi43

biglen said:


> The option didn't start until the 2017 models.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


So what does that mean for me? I don't feel like I have a bad picture by any means. And my 6050 says the signal it is getting is HDR10, etc. Sorry if it's a dumb question, but trying to learn some of this.


----------



## biglen

bungi43 said:


> So what does that mean for me? I don't feel like I have a bad picture by any means. And my 6050 says the signal it is getting is HDR10, etc. Sorry if it's a dumb question, but trying to learn some of this.


Our models, which are prior to 2017, do it automatically. You're good. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## bungi43

biglen said:


> Our models, which are prior to 2017, do it automatically. You're good.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Shew. Thank you. I just picked this 6200 up a few weeks ago, still learning it.


----------



## biglen

bungi43 said:


> Shew. Thank you. I just picked this 6200 up a few weeks ago, still learning it.


Also, leave Video Conversion ON and i/P Scaler OFF. Let the Epson do the upscaling, and Video Conversion is what gives you the volume bar on the screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## bungi43

biglen said:


> Also, leave Video Conversion ON and i/P Scaler OFF. Let the Epson do the upscaling, and Video Conversion is what gives you the volume bar on the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I will check that setting, thanks again!


----------



## DaGamePimp

The current discussion reminds me of people buying 4K HDR displays but paying for the $8.99 Netflix plan thinking they are watching UHD HDR content. 

* Meant only in the most light hearted way of course, I have family that did exactly that.  

- Jason


----------



## bungi43

DaGamePimp said:


> The current discussion reminds me of people buying 4K HDR displays but paying for the $8.99 Netflix plan thinking they are watching UHD HDR content.
> 
> - Jason


I suppose we all learn somehow  

-(also) Jason


----------



## DaGamePimp

bungi43 said:


> I suppose we all learn somehow
> 
> -(also) Jason


Indeed, we have all been there.  

- Jason


----------



## RVD26

How do I check to make sure HDR 10 is on when viewing specific content like a game via DirecTV or when streaming?


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> How do I check to make sure HDR 10 is on when viewing specific content like a game via DirecTV or when streaming?


Press the HDR button on the remote. If its HDR, then the HDR slider will be accessible.


----------



## rekbones

RVD26 said:


> How do I check to make sure HDR 10 is on when viewing specific content like a game via DirecTV or when streaming?


Menu, info, projector info. Will give all the details of the incoming signal.


----------



## MannFan

I am one firmware update behind. Does anyone know what changed between the last one and this most current one? I simply don’t have a USB drive handy and I’m wondering whether it’s worth the hassle.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## fredworld

MannFan said:


> I am one firmware update behind. Does anyone know what changed between the last one and this most current one? I simply don’t have a USB drive handy and I’m wondering whether it’s worth the hassle.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I wrote to Epson back in October 2020 with the same question. Their response was as follows, _"Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it."_

FWIW, it's not a hassle to update. Just do the following:
Download the update onto a FAT32 formatted USB that's empty of anything but the FW.
Unplug the projector from the power source.
Insert the USB to USB port-A
Hold down the Power button then connect the power cord while still holding down the projector's Power button.
Release the Power button as soon as all the indicator lights come on (update mode). 
When the update finishes in about 75 seconds the projector will turn off. 
Done.

I hope this helps.


----------



## GaryBelcourt

I'm highly considering upgrading my budget Viewsonic PD7827HD with a 5050UB. I bought the budget projector just to make sure we watched it enough, and quite frankly, we only watch stuff on the projector now. In a light controlled room with 4k sources (PS5, computer etc) so it's time. 

However, I always had problems sourcing the bulbs for the Viewsonic. When I search for Epson bulbs for the 5050UB, I can't see them at all. Is there currently a shortage on bulbs? Are they hard to source in Canada?


----------



## fredworld

GaryBelcourt said:


> I'm highly considering upgrading my budget Viewsonic PD7827HD with a 5050UB. I bought the budget projector just to make sure we watched it enough, and quite frankly, we only watch stuff on the projector now. In a light controlled room with 4k sources (PS5, computer etc) so it's time.
> 
> However, I always had problems sourcing the bulbs for the Viewsonic. When I search for Epson bulbs for the 5050UB, I can't see them at all. Is there currently a shortage on bulbs? Are they hard to source in Canada?


My recommendation when purchasing a 5050 is to buy an extra lamp when they are back in stock at Epson, or for the extra cash get the 6050 which comes with a second lamp (at least for the USA it does). In the past year or so, keeping the lamps in stock has been an issue and there were also minor specification errors with the housings on the much less expensive non-Epson substitute lamps. If you want much more information about lamp availability and after-market substitutes for the 5050/6050 models see *this post* and *this post* of mine and others. Even knowing all this, I'd still buy my 5050UB again if necessary, even with the potential for *dust blobs*. I'm thoroughly enjoying it and I don't believe there's a projector in its price range that beats it.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Tx.


----------



## DarrinH

Lor


Lord of Cinder said:


> 3D​HDR 1​HDR 2​SDR - Rec 709​​Colour mode​Dynamic 3D​Digital Cinema​Cinema​Natural​​Brightness​52​51​51​52​​Contrast​45​43​43​45​​Colour Saturation​50​52​52​52​​Tint​50​50​50​50​​Colour Temp​7​7​8​6500K​​Skin Tone​3​3​3​4​​Grayscale 8 (RGB)​0,-50,-23​-5,0,-13​-23,0,-36​0,-7,-19​​Grayscale 7 (RGB)​0,-34,-20​-8,-2,-12​-15,4,-24​0,-2,-15​​Grayscale 6 (RGB)​3,-7,-10​-4,0,-4​-20,0,-30​2,0,-12​​Grayscale 5 (RGB)​7,-7,-10​-2,0,-11​-9,0,-15​6,0,-10​​Grayscale 4 (RGB)​1,-4,-10​0,0,-8​-9,0,-19​0,0,-8​​Grayscale 3 (RGB)​0,-6,-12​0,0,-6​-5,-2,-12​0,0,-4​​Grayscale 2 (RGB)​-6,-10,-16​0,0,-3​-2,0,-6​0,0,-3​​Grayscale 1 (RGB)​0,0,0​0,0,0​0,0,0​0,0,0​​Gamma​0​0​0​-2​​R (Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​55,50,50​55,72,62​50,50,68​50,54,50​​G (Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​50,26,50​100,75,45​100,54,41​52,48,50​​B (Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​20,41,45​35,45,35​54,60,32​50,50,50​​C (Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​50,50,50​50,50,50​50,50,50​50,52,51​​M(Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​80,25,60​85,60,81​100,54,84​49,50,52​​Y (Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​45,50,45​49,72,85​50,73,90​48,50,50​​Lens Iris​0​0​0​-16​​Power​Eco​Medium​Medium​Eco​​​Auto Iris​Off​High Speed​High Speed​Off​​HDR Slider​4​4​​3D Brightness​Medium​​​
> 
> 
> 
> Hello guys, my settings for TW-9400/6050UB.


Are these professionally calibrated settings?


----------



## Werewolf79

Even if they are professionally calibrated it’s unlikely they will work for your screen and your room, each screen and room is individual, someone else’s calibration can actually make your picture worse, I find out of the box Epson settings work well but I calibrated my own settings using a meter and Chromapure.

MY 3Di is set to high, maximum brightness and I always choose -2 for Gamma.


----------



## fredworld

Lord of Cinder said:


> 3D​HDR 1​HDR 2​SDR - Rec 709​​Colour mode​Dynamic 3D​Digital Cinema​Cinema​Natural​​Brightness​52​51​51​52​​Contrast​45​43​43​45​​Colour Saturation​50​52​52​52​​Tint​50​50​50​50​​Colour Temp​7​7​8​6500K​​Skin Tone​3​3​3​4​​Grayscale 8 (RGB)​0,-50,-23​-5,0,-13​-23,0,-36​0,-7,-19​​Grayscale 7 (RGB)​0,-34,-20​-8,-2,-12​-15,4,-24​0,-2,-15​​Grayscale 6 (RGB)​3,-7,-10​-4,0,-4​-20,0,-30​2,0,-12​​Grayscale 5 (RGB)​7,-7,-10​-2,0,-11​-9,0,-15​6,0,-10​​Grayscale 4 (RGB)​1,-4,-10​0,0,-8​-9,0,-19​0,0,-8​​Grayscale 3 (RGB)​0,-6,-12​0,0,-6​-5,-2,-12​0,0,-4​​Grayscale 2 (RGB)​-6,-10,-16​0,0,-3​-2,0,-6​0,0,-3​​Grayscale 1 (RGB)​0,0,0​0,0,0​0,0,0​0,0,0​​Gamma​0​0​0​-2​​R (Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​55,50,50​55,72,62​50,50,68​50,54,50​​G (Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​50,26,50​100,75,45​100,54,41​52,48,50​​B (Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​20,41,45​35,45,35​54,60,32​50,50,50​​C (Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​50,50,50​50,50,50​50,50,50​50,52,51​​M(Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​80,25,60​85,60,81​100,54,84​49,50,52​​Y (Hue, Saturation, Brightness)​45,50,45​49,72,85​50,73,90​48,50,50​​Lens Iris​0​0​0​-16​​Power​Eco​Medium​Medium​Eco​​​Auto Iris​Off​High Speed​High Speed​Off​​HDR Slider​4​4​​3D Brightness​Medium​​​
> 
> 
> 
> Hello guys, my settings for TW-9400/6050UB.


If you don't mind, could you describe your projector's environment, i.e. walls, ceiling color, furnishings, room dimensions, screen size/brand/model/gain, please? Number of hours on the lamp? Is it an Epson lamp or from a third party?
What process did you use to determine those settings? If equipment based what equipment or was it entirely subjective? It would be more meaningful for comparison to provide such details so others will know how it might or might not apply to their setups. Much appreciated.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

DarrinH said:


> Lor
> 
> Are these professionally calibrated settings?



Everything that Werewolf79 says is correct, these settings probably won't work on other projectors as every room and every screen is different.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

fredworld said:


> If you don't mind, could you describe your projector's environment, i.e. walls, ceiling color, furnishings, room dimensions, screen size/brand/model/gain, please? Number of hours on the lamp? Is it an Epson lamp or from a third party?
> What process did you use to determine those settings? If equipment based what equipment or was it entirely subjective? It would be more meaningful for comparison to provide such details so others will know how it might or might not apply to their setups. Much appreciated.


Even giving all those data, it is practically impossible for another person to have exactly the same thing at home, even if I have the same, the settings of my projector may not work in yours, since not all projectors are the same from the factory, these settings are indicative in case someone who does not have their unit calibrated wants to test them, in a person who has their unit calibrated it does not make sense, since they have a custom calibration. Of course anyone can try them out, but they will most likely not suit your screen or living room. These settings are customized for my projector and my living room, what I do recommend is that each one should calibrate its unit, the difference is very noticeable. I could give you some of that data without problem, but they would not be of much use either, as I said before, these settings are calibrated for my unit. I thought it was good to share them because there are people who are looking for settings to test or compare.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

For a professional calibration, if by professional we mean tools like Klein A-10 or pattern generators like Murideo and similar tools, it takes a lot of money, or also pay a lot of money to a professional who has these tools to calibrate your unit. You do not have to obsess over this, as has been said many times, with HCFR and a colorimeter like the Xrite i1 among others, you can already obtain spectacular results, without leaving the salary of several months in the attempt. I do not know if this can be called "professional calibration", for many it is not, but at least you have the unit calibrated and better than how it comes from the factory.


----------



## fredworld

Lord of Cinder said:


> For a professional calibration, if by professional we mean tools like Klein A-10 or pattern generators like Murideo and similar tools, it takes a lot of money, or also pay a lot of money to a professional who has these tools to calibrate your unit. You do not have to obsess over this, as has been said many times, with HCFR and a colorimeter like the Xrite i1 among others, you can already obtain spectacular results, without leaving the salary of several months in the attempt. I do not know if this can be called "professional calibration", for many it is not, but at least you have the unit calibrated and better than how it comes from the factory.





Lord of Cinder said:


> For a professional calibration, if by professional we mean tools like Klein A-10 or pattern generators like Murideo and similar tools, it takes a lot of money, or also pay a lot of money to a professional who has these tools to calibrate your unit. You do not have to obsess over this, as has been said many times, with HCFR and a colorimeter like the Xrite i1 among others, you can already obtain spectacular results, without leaving the salary of several months in the attempt. I do not know if this can be called "professional calibration", for many it is not, but at least you have the unit calibrated and better than how it comes from the factory.


Understood, I was just trying to get the proper perspective of your settings . My unit is subjectively calibrated with the Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

fredworld said:


> Understood, I was just trying to get the proper perspective of your settings . My unit is subjectively calibrated with the Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc.




fredworld, for me a professional calibration is the one that conforms to the rules that prevail in the cinema, either in SDR Rec 709 or in HDR BT2020, regardless of the means used to obtain correct measurements within those standards. Of course, some instruments give better and more accurate measurements than others. My setup is semi-dedicated room, black velvet in the roof , 100" white screen, I do not know the brand and the gain of screen because I do not keep boxes or anything, the gain I think was 1.0 but I cannot assure it and the lamp have 700 hours, is original from Epson. Calibration was performed with HCFR and Xrite i1 Display Pro.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

What makes the difference for me is the grayscale and the colors, there is no comparison between before and after calibrating. The Viperlogic tutorial to calibrate is very detailed and complete to obtain good results.


----------



## amdar

I recently bought Roku ULTRA (2020) and connected to Denon 4300H --> output to Epson 5050UB in the HDMI 1 port. Roku Ultra display type identifies only 1080P HDR. After few suggestions in the Roku ULTRA forum, i have re-plugged the Denon HDMI output to Epson 5050UB HDMI 2 port. Now the ROKU ultra display type is able to identify 4K HDR10. 

My Epson 5050UB firmware is 1.04. Anyone had similar issue in the Epson 5050UB HDMI 1 port? 

(Originally I posted the similar question in Roku Ultra forum. Apologize for the duplicate posting)


----------



## biglen

amdar said:


> I recently bought Roku ULTRA (2020) and connected to Denon 4300H --> output to Epson 5050UB in the HDMI 1 port. Roku Ultra display type identifies only 1080P HDR. After few suggestions in the Roku ULTRA forum, i have re-plugged the Denon HDMI output to Epson 5050UB HDMI 2 port. Now the ROKU ultra display type is able to identify 4K HDR10.
> 
> My Epson 5050UB firmware is 1.04. Anyone had similar issue in the Epson 5050UB HDMI 1 port?
> 
> (Originally I posted the similar question in Roku Ultra forum. Apologize for the duplicate posting)


I had some weird problems with HDMI 1 also. HDMI 2 works perfectly. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## sirius_basterd

My 5050UB is flickering during certain dark scenes but only for certain streaming services, specifically Netflix and Disney+. During very dark scenes the blackest parts flicker and it’s super distracting. Tried different auto-iris settings and it’s on high power mode. Anyone else seen this?


----------



## fredworld

sirius_basterd said:


> My 5050UB is flickering during certain dark scenes but only for certain streaming services, specifically Netflix and Disney+. During very dark scenes the blackest parts flicker and it’s super distracting. Tried different auto-iris settings and it’s on high power mode. Anyone else seen this?


I've had it in bright scenes. Here are *search results on flicker* in this forum. You might find something that addresses your issue. Otherwise, I'd write to Epson about it.


----------



## Zedekias

Lord of Cinder said:


> What makes the difference for me is the grayscale and the colors, there is no comparison between before and after calibrating. The Viperlogic tutorial to calibrate is very detailed and complete to obtain good results.


Link to the viperlogic tutorial?

And does anyone have any pictures of before/after calibrations? 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Zedekias said:


> Link to the viperlogic tutorial?
> 
> And does anyone have any pictures of before/after calibrations?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Link to tutorial.









Calibrating HDR on Epson 5040/6040 projectors


I would also try sticking with a master MaxL value of 4000 nits for everything. This will sacrifice some highlights on some titles but overall it's probably better as I suspect the range just above diffuse white (50-60%) stimulus might be overemphasized especially for daylight scenes. Would you...




www.avsforum.com





later I will upload pictures of the before and after.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Digital Cinema default









Digital Cinema Calibrated











Cinema Mode Default









Cinema Mode Calibrated









Digital Cinema Default









Digital Cinema Calibrated.


Although the mobile does not capture what the eyes see, you can see the difference, and above all, the excess of blue in the uncalibrated modes. Anyway, what you see here is not the same as what I see, that's why I don't like the photos too much, because they don't show the reality of the true image.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Cinema Mode Default









Cinema Mode Calibrated.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

All pictures taken from 4K HDR content.


----------



## Zedekias

Thank you! 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Zedekias

I guess I'm going down this rabbit hole now

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Lord of Cinder said:


> View attachment 3180783
> 
> Digital Cinema default
> 
> View attachment 3180785
> 
> Digital Cinema Calibrated
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3180788
> 
> Cinema Mode Default
> 
> View attachment 3180789
> 
> Cinema Mode Calibrated
> 
> View attachment 3180791
> 
> Digital Cinema Default
> 
> View attachment 3180792
> 
> Digital Cinema Calibrated.
> 
> 
> Although the mobile does not capture what the eyes see, you can see the difference, and above all, the excess of blue in the uncalibrated modes. Anyway, what you see here is not the same as what I see, that's why I don't like the photos too much, because they don't show the reality of the true image.


And that folks is why you calibrate. Well done LoC.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

For some people, the uncalibrated mode probably looks better, but that's because most people tend to see images with very cold color temperatures and very bluish images.


----------



## Alaric

sirius_basterd said:


> My 5050UB is flickering during certain dark scenes but only for certain streaming services, specifically Netflix and Disney+. During very dark scenes the blackest parts flicker and it’s super distracting. Tried different auto-iris settings and it’s on high power mode. Anyone else seen this?


It's a common thing on bulb projectors, particularly if you run Eco all the time. Try running a few hours at high power and it may help calm it down (Projector Italian tune up  ) 
Otherwise you are looking at a new bulb - If the projector isn't that old, kick Epson and they'll often send one FOC!


----------



## Alaric

Werewolf79 said:


> Even if they are professionally calibrated it’s unlikely they will work for your screen and your room, each screen and room is individual, someone else’s calibration can actually make your picture worse, I find out of the box Epson settings work well but I calibrated my own settings using a meter and Chromapure.


Other peoples settings are always a bit of a crap shoot. They may be better than the out of the box Epson ones for your situation and don't take long to try, but you can pretty much guarantee that they will never be correct.

Getting a meter and software is a MUCH better route, but also costs time and money. Getting a Pro will be better still, though by how much better than DIY is always a question and going the DIY route means you can periodically check and update things as you alter your system or the bulb fades.

I've an I1 display pro colorimeter and I1 pro spectrophotometer to cross calibrate against and HCFR - I'm just having a go at Calibrating Dynamic mode as it seems to give more HDR pop at the trade off in colour accuracy against Digital Cinema and the filter.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Alaric said:


> Other peoples settings are always a bit of a crap shoot. They may be better than the out of the box Epson ones for your situation and don't take long to try, but you can pretty much guarantee that they will never be correct.
> 
> Getting a meter and software is a MUCH better route, but also costs time and money. Getting a Pro will be better still, though by how much better than DIY is always a question and going the DIY route means you can periodically check and update things as you alter your system or the bulb fades.
> 
> I've an I1 display pro colorimeter and I1 pro spectrophotometer to cross calibrate against and HCFR - I'm just having a go at Calibrating Dynamic mode as it seems to give more HDR pop at the trade off in colour accuracy against Digital Cinema and the filter.


Totally agree. I personally don't like the dynamic mode for HDR, the colors are very imprecise, and in my case, I don't need that extra light.


----------



## Alaric

Lord of Cinder said:


> Totally agree. I personally don't like the dynamic mode for HDR, the colors are very imprecise, and in my case, I don't need that extra light.


Oh i've got a HDR accurate mode which is built off Digital Cinema which is excellent or HDR. I'm on a 120" 16:9 acoustic screen with the HDR slider at 2 for most things and High Power. I did a Bright mode off natural that was for High Power but found i can run that at Medium if i want less noise. I'm just scoping out Dynamic because brightness and contrast with a custom gamma curve. I'm not quite there yet and it takes a lot of tweaking on colours and i've still a slight red skin tone push, probably because GREEN. However i'm impressed with it for Dolby Vision use with a HDfury - Seems to work well with a few high pop films like Chaos Walking/Jolt and was surprisingly impressive with Midnight Sky and it's star fields. 
I've got the kit and it's an curious experiment, which is the advantage of the DIY route


----------



## RVD26

I'm not getting HDR for DirecTV 4K programs on Channel 104 that are clearly listed as HDR in the program guide.
HDMI cable from the DirecTV box to my AVR is 18 gbps. DirecTV settings says my "TV" is HDR capable, so not sure what else the issue could be.
Any suggestions?


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Alaric said:


> Oh i've got a HDR accurate mode which is built off Digital Cinema which is excellent or HDR. I'm on a 120" 16:9 acoustic screen with the HDR slider at 2 for most things and High Power. I did a Bright mode off natural that was for High Power but found i can run that at Medium if i want less noise. I'm just scoping out Dynamic because brightness and contrast with a custom gamma curve. I'm not quite there yet and it takes a lot of tweaking on colours and i've still a slight red skin tone push, probably because GREEN. However i'm impressed with it for Dolby Vision use with a HDfury - Seems to work well with a few high pop films like Chaos Walking/Jolt and was surprisingly impressive with Midnight Sky and it's star fields.
> I've got the kit and it's an curious experiment, which is the advantage of the DIY route



In my tests, the dynamic mode does not work well for HDR, the mode I like the most in HDR is the cinema mode, it is true that once the cinema mode and digital cinema have been calibrated, the differences between the two are very subtle. Although I like cinema mode better for HDR, I don't know why, but it gives me the feeling that it looks better, especially in color.


----------



## Rashman

RVD26 said:


> I'm not getting HDR for DirecTV 4K programs on Channel 104 that are clearly listed as HDR in the program guide.
> HDMI cable from the DirecTV box to my AVR is 18 gbps. DirecTV settings says my "TV" is HDR capable, so not sure what else the issue could be.
> Any suggestions?


Is it possible that DirecTV is trying to send Dolby Vision instead of HDR10? I know that was an issue for me with certain content coming from my Series X. Once I told the Xbox to _not_ try to send Dolby Vision (it's my understanding that 5050UB doesn't support it), I now get HDR10 whenever I expect to.


----------



## RVD26

Rashman said:


> Is it possible that DirecTV is trying to send Dolby Vision instead of HDR10? I know that was an issue for me with certain content coming from my Series X. Once I told the Xbox to _not_ try to send Dolby Vision (it's my understanding that 5050UB doesn't support it), I now get HDR10 whenever I expect to.


I don't think that's it. I don't even think DirecTV has any Dolby Vision content.


----------



## harish7447

Need some advise please
Just did a Bestbuy store pickup for a brand new 5050UB yesterday. Now I noticed that they have a second cellophane over the manufacturer cellophane (and it's not sealed - been cut). Not very happy with it and also sold out at BB. Called Epson customer service, the person there was on hold for some time and said it's a brand new unit (he said he checked with someone else using the serial number). Haven't opened it yet. Should I be worried or just open, install and enjoy. Any advise or similar experience is much appreciated. Thank you!


----------



## fredworld

harish7447 said:


> Need some advise please
> Just did a Bestbuy store pickup for a brand new 5050UB yesterday. Now I noticed that they have a second cellophane over the manufacturer cellophane (and it's not sealed - been cut). Not very happy with it and also sold out at BB. Called Epson customer service, the person there was on hold for some time and said it's a brand new unit (he said he checked with someone else using the serial number). Haven't opened it yet. Should I be worried or just open, install and enjoy. Any advise or similar experience is much appreciated. Thank you!


A photo might help. I can't picture what the issue is. Did you discuss with the BB rep?


----------



## Luminated67

harish7447 said:


> Need some advise please
> Just did a Bestbuy store pickup for a brand new 5050UB yesterday. Now I noticed that they have a second cellophane over the manufacturer cellophane (and it's not sealed - been cut). Not very happy with it and also sold out at BB. Called Epson customer service, the person there was on hold for some time and said it's a brand new unit (he said he checked with someone else using the serial number). Haven't opened it yet. Should I be worried or just open, install and enjoy. Any advise or similar experience is much appreciated. Thank you!


If in doubt speak to someone at the store, it could be very innocent and easily explained.


----------



## harish7447

fredworld said:


> A photo might help. I can't picture what the issue is. Did you discuss with the BB rep?











Here you go.

I didn’t notice until I left the store. Also that particular store is closing, so the employee couldn’t care less. Thanks


----------



## RVD26

harish7447 said:


> View attachment 3181270
> 
> Here you go.
> 
> I didn’t notice until I left the store. Also that particular store is closing, so the employee couldn’t care less. Thanks


Take it out of the box, inspect it, turn it on, and check the number of hours on the lamp.
If everything looks good, I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> Take it out of the box, inspect it, turn it on, and check the number of hours on the lamp.
> If everything looks good, I wouldn't worry about it.


Agree. But it looks like innocent handling wear from transportation. Also, once you fire it up, hold down Menu button 8 seconds then hit Esc twice to get the hours of use ( not lamp hours).


----------



## RVD26

fredworld said:


> Agree. But it looks like innocent handling wear from transportation. Also, once you fire it up, hold down Menu button 8 seconds then hit Esc twice to get the hours of use ( not lamp hours).


Thank you for that tip! I didn't know there was a way to check for that.
I just checked my refurb 5050 that I purchased earlier this year and this is what I got:








Does this look normal?


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> Thank you for that tip! I didn't know there was a way to check for that.
> I just checked my refurb 5050 that I purchased earlier this year and this is what I got:
> View attachment 3181342
> 
> Does this look normal?


I'm not an expert but it's easy to extrapolate some from that screen. The lamp hours display for 3D (0 hours), High, Medium, etc. individually. 
FWIW, mine also has fewer total operation hours than total lamp hours and mine was new, not refurb, which I can't explain.
PS: I just saw that the screen display is for HDMI 1. Perhaps, HDMI 2 usage might account for the difference?


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> I'm not an expert but it's easy to extrapolate some from that screen. The lamp hours display for 3D, High, Medium, etc. individually.
> FWIW, mine also has fewer total operation hours than total lamp hours and mine was new, not refurb, which I can't explain.


My 5050 shuts the lamp off and then sometimes spends an extra couple minutes cooling down. That time may add up?


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> My 5050 shuts the lamp off and then sometimes spends an extra couple minutes cooling down. That time may add up?


Our posts crossed while I was editing.The screen display is for HDMI 1. Perhaps, HDMI 2 usage might account for the difference?


----------



## rekbones

fredworld said:


> I'm not an expert but it's easy to extrapolate some from that screen. The lamp hours display for 3D (0 hours), High, Medium, etc. individually.
> FWIW, mine also has fewer total operation hours than total lamp hours and mine was new, not refurb, which I can't explain.
> PS: I just saw that the screen display is for HDMI 1. Perhaps, HDMI 2 usage might account for the difference?


For most projectors the total lamps hours is a counterweighted complex formula that adds time when in medium/high lamp mode. Just as an example in high lamp it will count 1.5 hrs for every actual hr, 1.2 hrs in medium and 1hr in low. No clue what the Epson does but from the counts it looks like it is doing some added calculation.


----------



## reechings

Refurb 5050 showed up on Epson website again but I just don't think I can do it. Projector has been out for too long and I have waited for too long now 

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

reechings said:


> Refurb 5050 showed up on Epson website again but I just don't think I can do it. Projector has been out for too long and I have waited for too long now
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Well you know the LS11000 and LS12000 coming next year though they will cost more.


----------



## Alaric

reechings said:


> Refurb 5050 showed up on Epson website again but I just don't think I can do it. Projector has been out for too long and I have waited for too long now
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Doubt you'll find better for the money.The new laser models add a few grand to the price tag, so i can't see the prices falling for the current rage and maybe even increasing if discontinued!


----------



## routlaw

FYI, I just purchased a 5050 Refurb within the last month or less. No regrets, awesome picture which will keep me satisfied for years to come. 



reechings said:


> Refurb 5050 showed up on Epson website again but I just don't think I can do it. Projector has been out for too long and I have waited for too long now
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## routlaw

A question for you veterans with the 5050 and Dolby Vision. Effectively do you use an HDR setting instead of SDR Natural when viewing movies or TV series streamed with Dolby Vision encoded? I realize the projector can't properly work with DV but running an HDR setting seems to be the better compromise. Sorry with over 600 pages within this thread figured I would never find the definitive answer to this question. Thanks


----------



## DaGamePimp

routlaw said:


> A question for you veterans with the 5050 and Dolby Vision. Effectively do you use an HDR setting instead of SDR Natural when viewing movies or TV series streamed with Dolby Vision encoded? I realize the projector can't properly work with DV but running an HDR setting seems to be the better compromise. Sorry with over 600 pages within this thread figured I would never find the definitive answer to this question. Thanks



Unless you add an HDFury device in the chain (for LLDV) the video source will not see the 5050ub as being DV capable and will not send a DV signal. 

- Jason


----------



## reechings

Luminated67 said:


> Well you know the LS11000 and LS12000 coming next year though they will cost more.


I hadn't heard about them. Thanks for the heads up. I mostly would just like 5050 with built-in DTM.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

reechings said:


> I hadn't heard about them. Thanks for the heads up. I mostly would just like 5050 with built-in DTM.
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Then you missed *this thread*. We'll see what happens.


----------



## Alaric

fredworld said:


> Then you missed *this thread*. We'll see what happens.


If the US is the same as Europe, then the LS12000 is not the PJ you are looking for....Well not on price away. £2k more than the TW9400. Lacks 3D, gains laser, Dynamic Gamma which may be a form of DTM, gains 4x pxiel shift and 120hz for gaming, a 100 more lumens and claimed contrast of 2.5mil - However that price bump means it's in a bit of a different price bracket regardless and well, i'm sure it'll sell well, but as home cinema geeks. MEH
We're waiting for some in depth reviews, but for most of us, it gives extra life to our TW9400


----------



## reechings

fredworld said:


> Then you missed *this thread*. We'll see what happens.


Yeah sounds like they aren't coming to Canada and even if they were would be around 7K or more which is over twice what I can get a refurb 5050 for and just too much for me to justify I think.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

reechings said:


> I hadn't heard about them. Thanks for the heads up. I mostly would just like 5050 with built-in DTM.
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Watch out for reviews coming in probably the next month or so, these should give you a good idea whether it’s worth paying the extra for one of them over the 5050, what we have been told this side of the pond is the version with built in WiFi TW9400w is being discontinued but the regular TW9400 will remain so I expect this will be the same over there.


----------



## Alaric

Luminated67 said:


> Watch out for reviews coming in probably the next month or so, these should give you a good idea whether it’s worth paying the extra for one of them over the 5050, what we have been told this side of the pond is the version with built in WiFi TW9400w is being discontinued but the regular TW9400 will remain so I expect this will be the same over there.


The 9400W is a bit of a waste of money anyway. The wireless is 10gb so you really need a cable - Only advantage is if you want a white projector or need the wireless short term.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

amdar said:


> I recently bought Roku ULTRA (2020) and connected to Denon 4300H --> output to Epson 5050UB in the HDMI 1 port. Roku Ultra display type identifies only 1080P HDR. After few suggestions in the Roku ULTRA forum, i have re-plugged the Denon HDMI output to Epson 5050UB HDMI 2 port. Now the ROKU ultra display type is able to identify 4K HDR10.
> 
> My Epson 5050UB firmware is 1.04. Anyone had similar issue in the Epson 5050UB HDMI 1 port?
> 
> (Originally I posted the similar question in Roku Ultra forum. Apologize for the duplicate posting)


Interesting you bring this point up. Recently, my Roku Ultra is not upscaling content and have been using hdmi1. However, when I use my Sony BR player to stream it up scales without a problem. Is this an isolated issue with Roku and if I switch my hdmi to 2 will it likely fix the problem? Any thoughts would be appreciated.


----------



## grayson

I will be setting my 6050 up this week. Before I do can someone give me a link to some basic picture settings for 4k, HDR and SDR please,? Which modes are the best for them. Also which feature should be turned off for the most accurate picture? My screen is 1.0 gain and room is totally black, with dark velvet walls and ceiling. Thanks


----------



## fredworld

grayson said:


> I will be setting my 6050 up this week. Before I do can someone give me a link to some basic picture settings for 4k, HDR and SDR please,? Which modes are the best for them. Also which feature should be turned off for the most accurate picture? My screen is 1.0 gain and room is totally black, with dark velvet walls and ceiling. Thanks


I presume that you're not getting it professionally calibrated. *Here is my usual response* to your question. I will add that you should turn off Auto Iris.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

grayson said:


> I will be setting my 6050 up this week. Before I do can someone give me a link to some basic picture settings for 4k, HDR and SDR please,? Which modes are the best for them. Also which feature should be turned off for the most accurate picture? My screen is 1.0 gain and room is totally black, with dark velvet walls and ceiling. Thanks


It is best to calibrate. You can try my settings or Alaric's for example, but they will most likely make the image worse, since they are custom calibrations. In this post are my settings, Cinema mode is my favorite for HDR. The image settings each have a little to their liking, I the sharpness to 0 and the image enhancement off. It seems to me that it is as more natural and smooth the image looks. Others tend to have the sharpness at 5 and the image enhancement between 2 and 3. That to me adds a lot of artifacts and saw teeth to the image.










THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)


I have a Denon 6200W. Just went down to see if mine was as well, but I don't see that option anywhere. Not sure how to find it on the 6200W. What model do you have? X6500H. Try pressing the 'Setup' button and looking under video options.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## grayson

I will be calibrating it with a disc. I just wanted to know which are the best modes to start with for SDR, HDR and 3d. From there I will set brightness, colour etc to my preference. Thanks everyone 👍


----------



## Alaric

I'm not sure i class setting with a disc "calibration", however you can certainly improve the image for your environment with them. I'm still a fan of the old DVE, even the dvd for the walk through of controls and their uses and the hand holding it gives. The S&M disc is good and accurate but i find it very technical for a new user and takes a lot of reading to get the best from it.

Most of the patterns for a general user can also be downloaded if you are on a budget.






Epson TW9400


The Epson TW9400 is a 3lcd, high brightness, high contrast 4K pixel shifting projector with active 3D capabilities. At approx £2550 it's at a fairly unique, highly featured, very flexible and cheap price point for what it offers. There is also the Epson TW9400W this is a white version at approx




sites.google.com





Has some suggestions for modes and an over view of controls and calibration.

As for other peoples settings, they certainly won't be correct, however they may be better than the Epson built in ones, or they may be worse. They do only take a few minutes to enter and there's lots of memory slots to play with. Despite having software and a meter i've tried a few and they've been useful to see how other people approach calibration as a lot of the settings interact and there are a few routes to get to your destination!


----------



## Orwellflash

oops


----------



## Orwellflash

grayson said:


> I will be calibrating it with a disc. I just wanted to know which are the best modes to start with for SDR, HDR and 3d. From there I will set brightness, colour etc to my preference. Thanks everyone 👍


I have calibrated two projectors that I have owned, using HCFR and a color meter. It is best to wait until you have 100-200 hours on the bulb before you calibrate (bulb dims rapidly at first). I have about 180 hours on my 5050. Have been using *Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com and Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K Capable Home Theater Projector Review- Calibration Settings - Projector Reviews

Those two agree on most settings, so that was encouraging, and do HDR "slider settings" as you see fit.. I have a 1.0 gain, 110" Cima Neva screen and bat cave with black velvet on walls and ceiling.*


----------



## pottscb

rollon1980 said:


> For those who are still on the fence with this.
> First photo at 60Hz, second photo at 24Hz.
> You can see that the 24hz image reproduces the text much more clearly and the letters are more separate / better delineated. Look at the word fox especially!
> View attachment 3178098
> View attachment 3178099


Holy Smokes! You sure it’s the same…everything? The top looks like muddy old broadcast SD! They are the same exact source/cable/feed but one at 60Hz and one at 24Hz? This does much to recommend the Epson, I’m even thinking we should inform Rob Sabin to re-review the 5050 (or at least add an addendum to his review)


----------



## Gjlaplante

I've got a question about grayscale settings. I have an Epson 5050UB that only has 8 stops for grayscale settings. So, when I calibrate using 11 point, I have to average a setting for 30-40 patches (stop 4) and 60-70 (stop 6). So I decided to create an 8 point grayscale using average. The numbers came out to 100, 86, 71.2, 57, 43, 28.8, 14, 0. Each stop should now have its own patch now. What I don't know is how accurate it would be because I don't know what defaults the Epson actually has for each of its factory set stops. Thank you in advance.


----------



## rollon1980

pottscb said:


> Holy Smokes! You sure it’s the same…everything? The top looks like muddy old broadcast SD! They are the same exact source/cable/feed but one at 60Hz and one at 24Hz? This does much to recommend the Epson, I’m even thinking we should inform Rob Sabin to re-review the 5050 (or at least add an addendum to his review)


Yup, same video at different framerates. I had to render 4K video from that pattern using my Mac at crazy sizes so there’s zero compression issues. It is the same! There is more resolution at 24hz. We’ve been saying this for ages but people aren’t catching on. ;-)


----------



## biglen

rollon1980 said:


> Yup, same video at different framerates. I had to render 4K video from that pattern using my Mac at crazy sizes so there’s zero compression issues. It is the same! There is more resolution at 24hz. We’ve been saying this for ages but people aren’t catching on. ;-)


Not everyone is catching on, because it doesn't affect every projector. I saw ZERO difference when I tried it, as have others. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## rollon1980

biglen said:


> Not everyone is catching on, because it doesn't affect every projector. I saw ZERO difference when I tried it, as have others.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


If you can't see it, that's fair enough. 
Unfortunately, I can't test it on the UB5050 or 6050. We have only verified this on the EU and AU models of the UB6050 (TW9400). It is entirely possible the change was not made on the US firmware or only on the 6050.


----------



## DaGamePimp

I am in the US and my 5050ub has the 24Hz timing refinement from 1.03. 

I feel like this is beating a dead 🐴 but... *IT'S THERE*. 

😁
- Jason


----------



## rollon1980

DaGamePimp said:


> I am in the US and my 5050ub has the 24Hz timing refinement from 1.03.
> 
> I feel like this is beating a dead 🐴 but... *IT'S THERE*.
> 
> 😁
> - Jason


hehe. Awesome. Sorry, Jason. I wasn't aware you had the 5050. There we go. 

Yes, we'll need to move onto camels next. I think the horses are well and truly dead.


----------



## pottscb

rollon1980 said:


> hehe. Awesome. Sorry, Jason. I wasn't aware you had the 5050. There we go.
> 
> Yes, we'll need to move onto camels next. I think the horses are well and truly dead.


It’s a little concerning that only some experience this upgrade…I’m thinking of buying a refurbished 6050 with a 30 day return window and returning them until I get one…anyone ever done a poll to see what the prevalence of this is? When you toggle between 60 and 24, is the handshake fast enough that you get a picture pretty immediately? I wonder for users who don’t experience the improved sharpness if they returned all settings to default if that would make the difference (maybe a different setting Is blocking this feature?) I know this thread is encyclopedic so sorry if this has all been rehashed a million times. Also, does this pj have unit to unit variations that are bothersome to some (like JVCs light corners in a full black screen) so I can keep this in mind if I go through a few.


----------



## rollon1980

pottscb said:


> It’s a little concerning that only some experience this upgrade…I’m thinking of buying a refurbished 6050 with a 30 day return window and returning them until I get one…anyone ever done a poll to see what the prevalence of this is? When you toggle between 60 and 24, is the handshake fast enough that you get a picture pretty immediately? I wonder for users who don’t experience the improved sharpness if they returned all settings to default if that would make the difference (maybe a different setting Is blocking this feature?) I know this thread is encyclopedic so sorry if this has all been rehashed a million times. Also, does this pj have unit to unit variations that are bothersome to some (like JVCs light corners in a full black screen) so I can keep this in mind if I go through a few.


A reset will likely help just in case. No massive unit to unit variations that we are aware of.  
Handshake is relatively fast.


----------



## Tiberus

pottscb said:


> It’s a little concerning that only some experience this upgrade…


I'm curious what is going on here too. I bought my 5050 new only a few weeks ago. It came with 1.04 firmware. With or without panel alignment enabled, 24 and 60 are identical. Maybe the downloadable 1.04 firmware is not the same as the factory-installed version. Or there is another setting that is preventing the change from happening. I want to play with this more but haven't felt too motivated as the picture already looks a lot better than the projector it replaced!


----------



## MannFan

Anyone want to take a guess what this high pitched noise is after installing a new lamp from the 3rd party recommended one, PurelandSupply?






New Recording 3.m4a







drive.google.com





The noise is most prominent coming out of the left (if you’re facing the projector) exhaust vent things. At :17 seconds I move the phone to wear the lamp is and the noise doesn’t appear to be happening but that’s also covered and doesn’t have a place for sound to escape I theorize.

This is the first time I installed a new lamp and I will say, it didn’t go in smoothly. I didn’t force it in but I had to apply a bit of pressure which made me uneasy seeing as how smoothly the original lamp went in and out.

Picture is great and I’ve used it 117 hours with no other problems. They said they’d replace it but I’d be out a TV source for the several days it takes to ship back and get a replacement. So I’ve put it off.

Thanks for any help. As you can tell, I am a newbie.


----------



## fredworld

MannFan said:


> Anyone want to take a guess what this high pitched noise is after installing a new lamp from the 3rd party recommended one, PurelandSupply?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Recording 3.m4a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drive.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The noise is most prominent coming out of the left (if you’re facing the projector) exhaust vent things. At :17 seconds I move the phone to wear the lamp is and the noise doesn’t appear to be happening but that’s also covered and doesn’t have a place for sound to escape I theorize.
> 
> This is the first time I installed a new lamp and I will say, it didn’t go in smoothly. I didn’t force it in but I had to apply a bit of pressure which made me uneasy seeing as how smoothly the original lamp went in and out.
> 
> Picture is great and I’ve used it 117 hours with no other problems. They said they’d replace it but I’d be out a TV source for the several days it takes to ship back and get a replacement. So I’ve put it off.
> 
> Thanks for any help. As you can tell, I am a newbie.


Replacement lamps should EASILY slip into the lamp compartment just as an Epson original. I suspect that the Pureland lamp housing is out of spec which is a problem that was prevalent some time ago with third party lamps. As for the noise, if it only happens with the Pureland lamp, and the lamp's housing isn't a perfect easy fit then I'd return the lamp. I have *many posts about my lamp saga*.


----------



## rollon1980

Tiberus said:


> I'm curious what is going on here too. I bought my 5050 new only a few weeks ago. It came with 1.04 firmware. With or without panel alignment enabled, 24 and 60 are identical. Maybe the downloadable 1.04 firmware is not the same as the factory-installed version. Or there is another setting that is preventing the change from happening. I want to play with this more but haven't felt too motivated as the picture already looks a lot better than the projector it replaced!


Mmm. Have you checked pixel structure on projector menu for example after you switch? The difference is subtle but the pixels turn into diagonal lines with less of a gap between them. 

It is entirely possible they don’t ship it on units from the factory. I am starting to wonder if an engineer slipped this in and didn’t tell anyone. Or they could have even removed it after we started talking about it.

it’s certainly there on our units.


----------



## RVD26

Cross-posted in the Denon AVR thread:

Anyone else experiencing a picture like this on occasion?
View attachment 3184332


I have a refurb X6500H that I just purchased a few months ago. I recently replaced a Monoprice HDMI cable with a Blue Jeans Cable HDMI cable and have had this pop up a few times now.
I experienced picture issues with the Monoprice cable as well, but it looked a bit different than this.
Just want to see if this is an issue with AVR or projector, before I blame it on the cable.


----------



## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> Cross-posted in the Denon AVR thread:
> 
> Anyone else experiencing a picture like this on occasion?
> View attachment 3184332
> 
> 
> I have a refurb X6500H that I just purchased a few months ago. I recently replaced a Monoprice HDMI cable with a Blue Jeans Cable HDMI cable and have had this pop up a few times now.
> I experienced picture issues with the Monoprice cable as well, but it looked a bit different than this.
> Just want to see if this is an issue with AVR or projector, before I blame it on the cable.


Best way to test is to remove the AVR from the equation. Plug the cable directly into whatever device you're using and see if the issue persists.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

RVD26 said:


> Cross-posted in the Denon AVR thread:
> 
> Anyone else experiencing a picture like this on occasion?
> View attachment 3184332
> 
> 
> I have a refurb X6500H that I just purchased a few months ago. I recently replaced a Monoprice HDMI cable with a Blue Jeans Cable HDMI cable and have had this pop up a few times now.
> I experienced picture issues with the Monoprice cable as well, but it looked a bit different than this.
> Just want to see if this is an issue with AVR or projector, before I blame it on the cable.


Experienced this twice on my tw9400.. Unsure if it is the epson or the marantz..


----------



## RVD26

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Experienced this twice on my tw9400.. Unsure if it is the epson or the marantz..


Okay, so I'm not the only one that has experienced this. It's already happened 3 times in the past couple of weeks. Just worried it's going to get worse over time.


----------



## RVD26

PixelPusher15 said:


> Best way to test is to remove the AVR from the equation. Plug the cable directly into whatever device you're using and see if the issue persists.


I agree, but it doesn't happen very often and I only fire up the projector on the weekends so it's hard to really troubleshoot it.


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Experienced this twice on my tw9400.. Unsure if it is the epson or the marantz..


I'm presuming that the problem is the prevalence of blue. Hard to tell on my phone. If so, I've never had that problem.


----------



## Luminated67

RVD26 said:


> Cross-posted in the Denon AVR thread:
> 
> Anyone else experiencing a picture like this on occasion?
> View attachment 3184332
> 
> 
> I have a refurb X6500H that I just purchased a few months ago. I recently replaced a Monoprice HDMI cable with a Blue Jeans Cable HDMI cable and have had this pop up a few times now.
> I experienced picture issues with the Monoprice cable as well, but it looked a bit different than this.
> Just want to see if this is an issue with AVR or projector, before I blame it on the cable.


That would remind me on a cable issue, how often is it happening and if quite regular I would suggest ordering another optical HDMI off Amazon where you know you can return it and connect it for a few days to see if it cures it, if not then simply return for a refund.


----------



## RVD26

Luminated67 said:


> That would remind me on a cable issue, how often is it happening and if quite regular I would suggest ordering another optical HDMI off Amazon where you know you can return it and connect it for a few days to see if it cures it, if not then simply return for a refund.


This is not an optical HDMI cable, it's an HDMI cable that was recommended here from Blue Jeans Cables. Should I get an optical HDMI cable instead?


----------



## hms17B

RVD26 said:


> Cross-posted in the Denon AVR thread:
> 
> Anyone else experiencing a picture like this on occasion?
> View attachment 3184332
> 
> 
> I have a refurb X6500H that I just purchased a few months ago. I recently replaced a Monoprice HDMI cable with a Blue Jeans Cable HDMI cable and have had this pop up a few times now.
> I experienced picture issues with the Monoprice cable as well, but it looked a bit different than this.
> Just want to see if this is an issue with AVR or projector, before I blame it on the cable.


I have Denon X3700H and have had half-and-half like this with pink, also with pink tint to whole picture, and once a sort of jaggedness. I switched 5050 to other HDMI input and back and that fixed it. If it's anything like your problem, I'd say it's the AVR. I'm starting to wonder if running video thru an AVR is such a good idea.


----------



## RVD26

hms17B said:


> I have Denon X3700H and have had half-and-half like this with pink, also with pink tint to whole picture, and once a sort of jaggedness. I switched 5050 to other HDMI input and back and that fixed it. If it's anything like your problem, I'd say it's the AVR. I'm starting to wonder if running video thru an AVR is such a good idea.


Thanks. Are you saying you switched the HDMI output on the AVR or the input on the 5050?


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> aving said all that, I'll add that adding the Sony UBP-X800M2 necessitated creating an extra setting memory because my Sony displays wider dynamic range for contrast than my Panasonic 820 and 420, in that more of the brightest bars are visible in the S&M UHD Benchmark disc's CONTRAST pattern.


Very interesting to hear this. This kind of thing is frustrating. It just emphasizes the fact that every video source is going to be a little different, and no one setting is going to be ideal for all. :/ For example, video quality for streaming Netflix from a UHD blu ray player, vs a Roku, vs an Nvidia Shield, vs an Apple TV, etc are all likely different. 
I wish there was a way to test streaming hardware with a set of benchmark video tests.


----------



## hms17B

RVD26 said:


> Thanks. Are you saying you switched the HDMI output on the AVR or the input on the 5050?


Switched 5050 input from HDMI1 to 2 then back to 1. I let it settle a bit between switches. So it would complete each handshake before the next switch. I have nothing on 5050 HDMI2 so that would show "no input", then I'd switch back to 1 after that displayed. Any time I've ever had a display issue, that fixed it. Except my latest issue, but I think that's a breakage in the AVR and not merely some HDMI negotiation glitch. I'm now getting intermittent video drops after months of near flawless performance. I think something just went out in the AVR video section somewhere as audio still seems to be OK. Really frustrating.


----------



## RVD26

hms17B said:


> Switched 5050 input from HDMI1 to 2 then back to 1. I let it settle a bit between switches. So it would complete each handshake before the next switch. I have nothing on 5050 HDMI2 so that would show "no input", then I'd switch back to 1 after that displayed. Any time I've ever had a display issue, that fixed it. Except my latest issue, but I think that's a breakage in the AVR and not merely some HDMI negotiation glitch. I'm now getting intermittent video drops after months of near flawless performance. I think something just went out in the AVR video section somewhere as audio still seems to be OK. Really frustrating.


Fixing the issue is not an issue for me. I've been able to fix it by removing the HDMI cable from the output of the AVR and plugging it right back in.
It's why its happening that's bothering me. I purchased the AVR as a refurb so I'm wondering if that may be the problem.


----------



## hms17B

RVD26 said:


> Fixing the issue is not an issue for me. I've been able to fix it by removing the HDMI cable from the output of the AVR and plugging it right back in.
> It's why its happening that's bothering me. I purchased the AVR as a refurb so I'm wondering if that may be the problem.


These things shouldn't be happening at all. My AVR was new and it seems to be having more problems than yours. When you make anything be controlled by any sort of computer you're just asking for trouble. At any rate, it seems that this particular problem is probably the AVR and not the 5050, nor the cables if they're good ones.


----------



## Gjlloyd

new 5050 owner, my new specs:

light controlled room
denon 3700 AVR
5050ub refurb with 30 total hours on the bulb
24ft rocketfish HDMI cable (in wall)
fiber optic 100MB connection & cat 6 internally
106 inch screen innovations screen
sources: roku ultra, PS5

General impressions coming from a 10 year old 1080p benq w7000: underwhelmed most of the time. I'm still playing with sources, but 1080p blu rays look about as good (maybe fractionally better blacks) as my benQ. Streaming sources are particularly muted and don't 'pop'. Watching 'Foundation' on Apple TV app on roku was particularly disappointing.. was really expecting some 'ULTRA' blacks from the UB. I don't have any 4K blu rays yet. 4k content on PS5 YouTube app look pretty good. I did some minor calibration tweaks with my Disney WOW calibration disk. 

So in summary.. just dropped 5k on a projector (supposedly the best of the under 3k bunch) and AVR but not seeing much improvement over my 10 year old DLP (especially with streaming sources). I'm working my way through this 600+ page thread, so maybe I'll get some ideas there but wondering what others thinks about my experience so far...

thanks!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Gjlloyd said:


> new 5050 owner, my new specs:
> 
> light controlled room
> denon 3700 AVR
> 5050ub refurb with 30 total hours on the bulb
> 24ft rocketfish HDMI cable (in wall)
> fiber optic 100MB connection & cat 6 internally
> 106 inch screen innovations screen
> sources: roku ultra, PS5
> 
> General impressions coming from a 10 year old 1080p benq w7000: underwhelmed most of the time. I'm still playing with sources, but 1080p blu rays look about as good (maybe fractionally better blacks) as my benQ. Streaming sources are particularly muted and don't 'pop'. Watching 'Foundation' on Apple TV app on roku was particularly disappointing.. was really expecting some 'ULTRA' blacks from the UB. I don't have any 4K blu rays yet. 4k content on PS5 YouTube app look pretty good. I did some minor calibration tweaks with my Disney WOW calibration disk.
> 
> So in summary.. just dropped 5k on a projector (supposedly the best of the under 3k bunch) and AVR but not seeing much improvement over my 10 year old DLP (especially with streaming sources). I'm working my way through this 600+ page thread, so maybe I'll get some ideas there but wondering what others thinks about my experience so far...
> 
> thanks!


What color mode and power consumption settings are you using? Are you using the dynamic iris? (some like it, others don't. I like it.) What screen from SI are you using? When you say light controlled, do you mean lights are off or that the room is painted dark and doesn't have reflected surfaces?


----------



## Cacitems4sale

RVD26 said:


> Cross-posted in the Denon AVR thread:
> 
> Anyone else experiencing a picture like this on occasion?
> View attachment 3184332
> 
> 
> I have a refurb X6500H that I just purchased a few months ago. I recently replaced a Monoprice HDMI cable with a Blue Jeans Cable HDMI cable and have had this pop up a few times now.
> I experienced picture issues with the Monoprice cable as well, but it looked a bit different than this.
> Just want to see if this is an issue with AVR or projector, before I blame it on the cable.


i have the 3700 as well and noticed it on occasion. I also switched hdmi and back, which I have not noticed the issue over the last couple hundred hours.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Side Note: Do not Hot-Swap HDMI cables, that's asking for a problem.

- Jason


----------



## Luminated67

Gjlloyd said:


> new 5050 owner, my new specs:
> 
> light controlled room
> denon 3700 AVR
> 5050ub refurb with 30 total hours on the bulb
> 24ft rocketfish HDMI cable (in wall)
> fiber optic 100MB connection & cat 6 internally
> 106 inch screen innovations screen
> sources: roku ultra, PS5
> 
> General impressions coming from a 10 year old 1080p benq w7000: underwhelmed most of the time. I'm still playing with sources, but 1080p blu rays look about as good (maybe fractionally better blacks) as my benQ. Streaming sources are particularly muted and don't 'pop'. Watching 'Foundation' on Apple TV app on roku was particularly disappointing.. was really expecting some 'ULTRA' blacks from the UB. I don't have any 4K blu rays yet. 4k content on PS5 YouTube app look pretty good. I did some minor calibration tweaks with my Disney WOW calibration disk.
> 
> So in summary.. just dropped 5k on a projector (supposedly the best of the under 3k bunch) and AVR but not seeing much improvement over my 10 year old DLP (especially with streaming sources). I'm working my way through this 600+ page thread, so maybe I'll get some ideas there but wondering what others thinks about my experience so far...
> 
> thanks!


When you say your room is light controlled do you mean this








or is it a case of you able to turn all the lights off but the actual walls and ceiling are light in colour because the above image makes a world of difference to all projectors but more so those that are able to take advantage of their superior native contrast. Your old projector had probably 1800:1 native contrast and the Epson around 5000-5500:1 if well calibrated and the Iris closed down a bit so in a good room you should easily see the difference but in a poor room not so much.

You should be getting a very sharp image none the less because if you check out the link in my signature to my image collection I have took over the period I have had mine you will see it a cracking good projector for the money.


----------



## rekbones

fredworld said:


> I'm presuming that the problem is the prevalence of blue. Hard to tell on my phone. If so, I've never had that problem.


I suspect this is a hiccup in the firmware of the projector. I had it happen to mine once just last week. Mine did it on powerup and just forcing a new HDMI handshake by switching inputs on the AVR to another device and back again cured it for me (HTPC to SHEILD back to HTPC). I have had other strange things where the firmware got lost and the projector needed a reboot. I have short (3m or less) cables that are Monoprice 600Mhz certified. It is possible HDMI cables that struggle with handshake could cause it to happen more frequently.

EDIT: Agreed never hot swap HDMI cables as one ESD pulse from your hands could fry HDMI chips in projector, AVR or both.


----------



## pottscb

Gjlloyd said:


> new 5050 owner, my new specs:
> 
> light controlled room
> denon 3700 AVR
> 5050ub refurb with 30 total hours on the bulb
> 24ft rocketfish HDMI cable (in wall)
> fiber optic 100MB connection & cat 6 internally
> 106 inch screen innovations screen
> sources: roku ultra, PS5
> 
> General impressions coming from a 10 year old 1080p benq w7000: underwhelmed most of the time. I'm still playing with sources, but 1080p blu rays look about as good (maybe fractionally better blacks) as my benQ. Streaming sources are particularly muted and don't 'pop'. Watching 'Foundation' on Apple TV app on roku was particularly disappointing.. was really expecting some 'ULTRA' blacks from the UB. I don't have any 4K blu rays yet. 4k content on PS5 YouTube app look pretty good. I did some minor calibration tweaks with my Disney WOW calibration disk.
> 
> So in summary.. just dropped 5k on a projector (supposedly the best of the under 3k bunch) and AVR but not seeing much improvement over my 10 year old DLP (especially with streaming sources). I'm working my way through this 600+ page thread, so maybe I'll get some ideas there but wondering what others thinks about my experience so far...
> 
> thanks!


That’s unfortunate, what screen you using and is your room treated for darkness? Better back levels require the room to cooperate. Is convergence on Epson perfect? (You can tweak this through the menu) Make sure you’re running Epson on mid lamp with Iris closed down to give better contrast levels. THIS IS IMPORTANT: Make sure Epson FW is 1.03-1.04 and your streamers are set to output 4K/24p HDR as they won’t do it by themselves. (Also, buy a 4K BD player and view some
4K discs as Epson can take advantage of extra resolution and HDR-also make sure the player is outputting 4K/24 as Epson doesn’t some pixel “magic” at that frame rate with updated firmware)

Hope the image improves for you.


----------



## PixelPusher15

pottscb said:


> *[...]and your streamers are set to output 4K/24p HDR as they won’t do it by themselves. (Also, buy a 4K BD player and view some
> 4K discs as Epson can take advantage of extra resolution and HDR-also make sure the player is outputting 4K/24 as Epson doesn’t some pixel “magic” at that frame rate with updated firmware)*


Depending on the streamer there is absolutely no reason to lock the resolution to 4K/24hz. Apple TV and Fire TV both have auto frame rate match settings and Nvidia Shields have a manual button to press to match frame rate. No matter which streamer you have the only thing that can improve by getting 24fps is resolution, not contrast and that seems to be the main gripe here.

I wouldn't go drop money on a BD player and discs until you are satisfied with the projector. Yes, discs are better but they aren't required to be satisfied.

I don't want @Gjlloyd chasing frame rates and discs when there are better things to troubleshoot first.


----------



## biglen

Gjlloyd said:


> new 5050 owner, my new specs:
> 
> light controlled room
> denon 3700 AVR
> 5050ub refurb with 30 total hours on the bulb
> 24ft rocketfish HDMI cable (in wall)
> fiber optic 100MB connection & cat 6 internally
> 106 inch screen innovations screen
> sources: roku ultra, PS5
> 
> General impressions coming from a 10 year old 1080p benq w7000: underwhelmed most of the time. I'm still playing with sources, but 1080p blu rays look about as good (maybe fractionally better blacks) as my benQ. Streaming sources are particularly muted and don't 'pop'. Watching 'Foundation' on Apple TV app on roku was particularly disappointing.. was really expecting some 'ULTRA' blacks from the UB. I don't have any 4K blu rays yet. 4k content on PS5 YouTube app look pretty good. I did some minor calibration tweaks with my Disney WOW calibration disk.
> 
> So in summary.. just dropped 5k on a projector (supposedly the best of the under 3k bunch) and AVR but not seeing much improvement over my 10 year old DLP (especially with streaming sources). I'm working my way through this 600+ page thread, so maybe I'll get some ideas there but wondering what others thinks about my experience so far...
> 
> thanks!


What color are your walls and ceiling? There's nothing worse than someone complaining about contrast, and come to find out, they have white walls and ceiling. Do have have the Denon set to "Enhanced"? Also, leave Video Conversion ON and i/p Scaler OFF. Let the Epson do the upscaling, and Video Conversion is what gives you the volume bar on the screen. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

RVD26 said:


> This is not an optical HDMI cable, it's an HDMI cable that was recommended here from Blue Jeans Cables. Should I get an optical HDMI cable instead?


BIG FAN of Optical HDMI for these Epsons. They seem VERY fussy on cables and the amount of times issues have been solved with an optical cable is stunning. It is the way to get the 18GB interface up to speed. Older style cables MAY work, but the optical ones always seem to, particularly in longer runs. For once this is cable science rather than snake oil.


----------



## RVD26

Alaric said:


> BIG FAN of Optical HDMI for these Epsons. They seem VERY fussy on cables and the amount of times issues have been solved with an optical cable is stunning. It is the way to get the 18GB interface up to speed. Older style cables MAY work, but the optical ones always seem to, particularly in longer runs. For once this is cable science rather than snake oil.


Any specific optical cables that you would recommend?


----------



## Alaric

RVD26 said:


> Any specific optical cables that you would recommend?


I'm UK based, but the one a lot of us over here have got is the ATZEBE Fibre Optic HDMI Cable from Amazon. It's a good price here and works well. 
They tend to be quite nice and slim and flexible on the cable, but have a fair sized end, because of the built in electronics and they take are powered from the HDMI socket. They ARE directional because of how they work, so will have a source & display end.
It is one of those that whilst they are not cheap, you don't need to spend mega bucks on either because digital etc


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Nvidia Shields have a manual button to press to match frame rate.


They do? Where is this button? I have a 6mo old Shield Pro... looking at the remote now (the only place there are buttons for this device), don't see a button related to anything like frame rate.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> They do? Where is this button? I have a 6mo old Shield Pro... looking at the remote now (the only place there are buttons for this device), don't see a button related to anything like frame rate.


It's in beta and not the easiest to get to. It's also an on screen button in the Quest settings once you get it set up: Match Frame Rate


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> It's in beta and not the easiest to get to. It's also an on screen button in the Quest settings once you get it set up: Match Frame Rate


Yeah, I am aware of the beta feature. I would not have called it "a manual button to press" though, and was wondering if there was a new remote with a dedicated button or something like an option right next to transport functions in the main player menu. It's at least 2 menu levels down inside settings, so hardly a "button" IMO. But all good.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Yeah, I am aware of the beta feature. I would not have called it "a manual button to press" though, and was wondering if there was a new remote with a dedicated button or something like an option right next to transport functions in the main player menu. It's at least 2 menu levels down inside settings, so hardly a "button" IMO. But all good.


Sorry. I work on UIs for a living so buttons are rarely ever physical in my mind. Manual was just the opposite of auto. Words are hard.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Sorry. I work on UIs for a living so buttons are rarely ever physical in my mind. Manual was just the opposite of auto. Words are hard.


LOL, like I said all good. No worries.
I work with UI designers a fair bit. And I almost considered journalism over engineering for a college major, so I key in on meanings implied by words and word choices.
The words "to press" also implied something physical as well, FYI. No software/gui based button is ever "pressed" IMO, except maybe in a touch-based UI e.g. on a phone.


----------



## biglen

RVD26 said:


> This is not an optical HDMI cable, it's an HDMI cable that was recommended here from Blue Jeans Cables. Should I get an optical HDMI cable instead?


If you got the Series 3A active cable from Blue Jeans, then you are fine. I've been running a 35' for 2 years now, with ZERO issues. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## RVD26

biglen said:


> If you got the Series 3A active cable from Blue Jeans, then you are fine. I've been running a 35' for 2 years now, with ZERO issues.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yes, that is the cable I got based on your recommendation.


----------



## biglen

RVD26 said:


> Yes, that is the cable I got based on your recommendation.


Unless the cable went bad, which I guess is a slight possibility, then that cable is fine. Did it ever work good for you, or just recently did you start having issues?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Gjlloyd

PixelPusher15 said:


> What color mode and power consumption settings are you using? Are you using the dynamic iris? (some like it, others don't. I like it.) What screen from SI are you using? When you say light controlled, do you mean lights are off or that the room is painted dark and doesn't have reflected surfaces?


some updates

using medium power and dynamic color mode
dynamic iris set to high
I incorrectly stated my screen brand, its a visual apex from 2012, and I don't have a model number so I don't know the specs on it (its motorized and wasn't cheap, I think around $900 or so?)
my ceiling is painted white, walls are maroon / brown
its a basement room with no windows / doors

I see by your question, and the picture someone posted in response to my question, that perhaps the white ceiling is the culprit (listening for groans). I can probably get the wife to agree to let me paint it the wall color, but I doubt she'll allow black  

Is that it then? you basically have to have it cave dark in the room or the 5050 won't really show its colors (no pun intended)? Makes me wonder about any projector being much better in such a room. I suppose I just didn't get that was the deciding factor in getting a dark projected image (rookie mistake I presume).

thanks


----------



## RVD26

biglen said:


> Unless the cable went bad, which I guess is a slight possibility, then that cable is fine. Did it ever work good for you, or just recently did you start having issues?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I've only had the new cable for a few weeks and have had the issue pop up almost every weekend that I've used the projector (I mostly use the projector on the weekends).
I did have issues with the old cable as well, but the issue looked different than it does now.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Gjlloyd said:


> some updates
> 
> using medium power and dynamic color mode
> dynamic iris set to high
> I incorrectly stated my screen brand, its a visual apex from 2012, and I don't have a model number so I don't know the specs on it (its motorized and wasn't cheap, I think around $900 or so?)
> my ceiling is painted white, walls are maroon / brown
> its a basement room with no windows / doors
> 
> I see by your question, and the picture someone posted in response to my question, that perhaps the white ceiling is the culprit (listening for groans). I can probably get the wife to agree to let me paint it the wall color, but I doubt she'll allow black
> 
> Is that it then? you basically have to have it cave dark in the room or the 5050 won't really show its colors (no pun intended)? Makes me wonder about any projector being much better in such a room. I suppose I just didn't get that was the deciding factor in getting a dark projected image (rookie mistake I presume).
> 
> thanks


Dynamic and medium power on a 106" is like using a flame thrower to light a candle for SDR content. Colors are going to be yuck and contrast won't be great. Try Natural with lamp in Eco at first. That should give you plenty. So much so that you can most likely bump the manual iris down to -5 to -10. This should help with contrast. Maybe it will be too dim for you. You can try Natural/Medium/Iris = -7. For HDR, I'd try Natural/Medium/Iris = 0. 

For both, try setting the gamma at -1 or -2. Every review I saw had gamma at -1 or -2 and not the default at 0.

Don't forget about the HDR brightness slider. I bounce between 8 and 5.


----------



## biglen

RVD26 said:


> I've only had the new cable for a few weeks and have had the issue pop up almost every weekend that I've used the projector (I mostly use the projector on the weekends).
> I did have issues with the old cable as well, but the issue looked different than it does now.


What HDMI port are you using on the projector?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Gjlloyd

Luminated67 said:


> When you say your room is light controlled do you mean this
> View attachment 3184571
> 
> or is it a case of you able to turn all the lights off but the actual walls and ceiling are light in colour because the above image makes a world of difference to all projectors but more so those that are able to take advantage of their superior native contrast. Your old projector had probably 1800:1 native contrast and the Epson around 5000-5500:1 if well calibrated and the Iris closed down a bit so in a good room you should easily see the difference but in a poor room not so much.
> 
> You should be getting a very sharp image none the less because if you check out the link in my signature to my image collection I have took over the period I have had mine you will see it a cracking good projector for the money.


Thanks for the info, see my updates on THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)

WOW those pictures in your dropbox look amazing, so far I've seen nothing close to those. Do you get images like that from streaming sources or only physical media?

thanks


----------



## biglen

Gjlloyd said:


> Thanks for the info, see my updates on THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)
> 
> WOW those pictures in your dropbox look amazing, so far I've seen nothing close to those. Do you get images like that from streaming sources or only physical media?
> 
> thanks


@Gjlloyd , did you see my response to you, about making sure your Denon is set to Enhanced, and a couple other settings to check?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jbn008

Does anyone know if there's a way to tell the manufactured date from the serial number?


----------



## RVD26

biglen said:


> What HDMI port are you using on the projector?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


HDMI 1


----------



## pottscb

Gjlloyd said:


> some updates
> 
> using medium power and dynamic color mode
> dynamic iris set to high
> I incorrectly stated my screen brand, its a visual apex from 2012, and I don't have a model number so I don't know the specs on it (its motorized and wasn't cheap, I think around $900 or so?)
> my ceiling is painted white, walls are maroon / brown
> its a basement room with no windows / doors
> 
> I see by your question, and the picture someone posted in response to my question, that perhaps the white ceiling is the culprit (listening for groans). I can probably get the wife to agree to let me paint it the wall color, but I doubt she'll allow black
> 
> Is that it then? you basically have to have it cave dark in the room or the 5050 won't really show its colors (no pun intended)? Makes me wonder about any projector being much better in such a room. I suppose I just didn't get that was the deciding factor in getting a dark projected image (rookie mistake I presume).
> 
> thanks


There are ways to cheat not painting the whole room black...think of it from the screens point of view...in fact, stand right in front of your screen and look toward the pj anything this is mirror (gasp), white, off while, light colored or gloss finished will need to be addressed. Some people build "shutters" that they place around the screen (floor, ceiling, back wall, etc) which keeps the whole room from from needing to be black. I have a really wide room (60+ ft) so my side walls are irrelevant, my ceiling is the problem. Next, mount your screen as low (far away from light ceiling) as possible, this will help. Also, if you can buy an ALR screen, or even a retroreflective screen (high power) then the side walls/ceiling make much less difference (though those screens bring challenges of their own like optimum pj placement). There are more ways than making the room a cave, though thats the most effective, some of us have families or can't afford houses with dedicated HT rooms.


----------



## biglen

RVD26 said:


> HDMI 1


Just for the heck of it, try using HDMI 2. I had all kinds of weird issues using HDMI 1 for some reason, but when I switched to HDMI 2, all the issues went away. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## RVD26

biglen said:


> Just for the heck of it, try using HDMI 2. I had all kinds of weird issues using HDMI 1 for some reason, but when I switched to HDMI 2, all the issues went away.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yeah, I was going to give that a try and see if that fixes it.


----------



## Gjlloyd

PixelPusher15 said:


> Dynamic and medium power on a 106" is like using a flame thrower to light a candle for SDR content. Colors are going to be yuck and contrast won't be great. Try Natural with lamp in Eco at first. That should give you plenty. So much so that you can most likely bump the manual iris down to -5 to -10. This should help with contrast. Maybe it will be too dim for you. You can try Natural/Medium/Iris = -7. For HDR, I'd try Natural/Medium/Iris = 0.
> 
> For both, try setting the gamma at -1 or -2. Every review I saw had gamma at -1 or -2 and not the default at 0.
> 
> Don't forget about the HDR brightness slider. I bounce between 8 and 5.


thanks this is very helpful info! I did this and can certainly notice and improvement. I never thought about the projector putting out too much light as being a part of the problem. So many variables in this equation!


----------



## Gjlloyd

biglen said:


> What color are your walls and ceiling? There's nothing worse than someone complaining about contrast, and come to find out, they have white walls and ceiling. Do have have the Denon set to "Enhanced"? Also, leave Video Conversion ON and i/p Scaler OFF. Let the Epson do the upscaling, and Video Conversion is what gives you the volume bar on the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


yea my ceiling is white, don't you hate those guys! 

I will try your AVR settings tonight, thanks!


----------



## RVD26

biglen said:


> Just for the heck of it, try using HDMI 2. I had all kinds of weird issues using HDMI 1 for some reason, but when I switched to HDMI 2, all the issues went away.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Just switched to HDMI 2 so I'll see how things go. However, I just realized none of my settings from HDMI 1 carried over to HDMI 2 so I have to calibrate again.


----------



## biglen

RVD26 said:


> Just switched to HDMI 2 so I'll see how things go. However, I just realized none of my settings from HDMI 1 carried over to HDMI 2 so I have to calibrate again.


Thats weird. All my settings carry over, regardless if I use HDMI 1 or HDMI 2. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Gjlloyd said:


> yea my ceiling is white, don't you hate those guys!
> 
> I will try your AVR settings tonight, thanks!


You may as well put a mirror on the ceiling. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> You may as well put a mirror on the ceiling.


Not if you have a good ALR screen with a little gain. I have a white ceiling, with a Screen Innovations Slate 1.2 screen. It's acceptable in moderate light, and downright amazing at night with lights out. 
Batcaves are not the only way, and they are ugly, IMO.


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> Not if you have a good ALR screen with a little gain. I have a white ceiling, with a Screen Innovations Slate 1.2 screen. It's acceptable in moderate light, and downright amazing at night with lights out.
> Batcaves are not the only way, and they are ugly, IMO.


Have you tried it with a black painted ceiling, or black velvet on the ceiling? I thought mine looked great too, then I surrounded my screen with black velvet, and it took the projector to a next level. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> Have you tried it with a black painted ceiling, or black velvet on the ceiling? I thought mine looked great too, then I surrounded my screen with black velvet, and it took the projector to a next level.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Electric screen drops from the ceiling. No velvet surround possible. I've been in batcave demo rooms with my exact equipment, and "next level" it's not. If anything, the benefits I noticed might be chalked up to placebo effects, hard to say. Your sig does not indicate what screen you use. Is it ALR? In a batcave style light controlled room, ALR isn't recommended, and velvet treatment and the like would make a huge difference.
I'm not saying a batcave with a non-ALR screen wouldn't be better. But saying the guy may as well have a mirror on the ceiling is a hyperbolic falsehood when using a good ALR screen.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Electric screen drops from the ceiling. No velvet surround possible. I've been in batcave demo rooms with my exact equipment, and "next level" it's not. If anything, the benefits I noticed might be chalked up to placebo effects, hard to say. Your sig does not indicate what screen you use. Is it ALR? In a batcave style light controlled room, ALR isn't recommended, and velvet treatment and the like would make a huge difference.
> I'm not saying a batcave with a non-ALR screen wouldn't be better. But saying the guy may as well have a mirror on the ceiling is a hyperbolic falsehood when using a good ALR screen.


I've seen a fair amount of ALR samples and have yet to see one that doesn't add shimmer or grain to the image in highlights. I've seen every Ambient Visionarre sample from Screen Exellelence which all rate very well. I think that trade-off is worth it for a living room if that's what you want but I wouldn't pick it if I had a chance to have a dedicated treated room. 

A huge benefit of a darkened room is that it reduces distraction reflections even if you had an ALR to block the reflections so it doesn't hurt on-screen performance. Some don't seem to be bothered by peripheral reflections but our peripheral vision is biologically programmed to be more attention-grabbing when there are changes. Aka: immersion.


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> Electric screen drops from the ceiling. No velvet surround possible. I've been in batcave demo rooms with my exact equipment, and "next level" it's not. If anything, the benefits I noticed might be chalked up to placebo effects, hard to say. Your sig does not indicate what screen you use. Is it ALR? In a batcave style light controlled room, ALR isn't recommended, and velvet treatment and the like would make a huge difference.
> I'm not saying a batcave with a non-ALR screen wouldn't be better. But saying the guy may as well have a mirror on the ceiling is a hyperbolic falsehood when using a good ALR screen.


I have a painted screen, using Black Flame Interstellar paint, and the projector was professionally calibrated by Kevin Miller. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> I've seen a fair amount of ALR samples and have yet to see one that doesn't add shimmer or grain to the image in highlights. I've seen every Ambient Visionarre sample from Screen Exellelence which all rate very well. I think that trade-off is worth it for a living room if that's what you want but I wouldn't pick it if I had a chance to have a dedicated treated room.


Agreed, not sure why anyone would have an ALR screen in a dedicated treated room, unless you just enjoy watching with ambient light on (which some do _cough*mywife*cough_ but those are not usually the folks who would build/dedicate a room to movie watching) I'm not seeing much if any shimmer or grain with my screen/pj layout. I've heard that is exacerbated if PJ is too close to screen. Mine is not very far, but maybe it's far enough. Also I've heard that depends on the type of ALR technology. Some ALR screens actively reflect light from ambient angles, while others absorb light from ambient angles.


> A huge benefit of a darkened room is that it reduces distraction reflections even if you had an ALR to block the reflections so it doesn't hurt on-screen performance. Some don't seem to be bothered by peripheral reflections but our peripheral vision is biologically programmed to be more attention-grabbing when there are changes. Aka: immersion.


I guess the distractions aspect is a personal thing. If this is really a critical factor for you, would you also then want to watch in a fully blacked out felt-treated room with a large OLED HDR display, where you don't need full dark to appreciate the black levels?

The only regret I have so far with this screen is that I can't demo/review ST or UST projectors with it.
Also it was fabricated with a flaw that caused some wrinkles in the top corners of the image. But the replacement just arrived so hopefully that goes away after the swap this weekend.


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> I have a painted screen, using Black Flame Interstellar paint


Never heard of it. Is this an ALR treatment or not?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Does anyone have a similar setup to mine:

~12.5' throw
~120" screen
Shelf mounted near the ceiling/level with top of the screen
My 5050 was a refurb and I just sent it back because the bottom right wasn't in focus. The replacement I got back (which is actually a new one) is even worse. It is very hard to focus at all but the bottom entire half of the screen is out of focus on this one. Convergence is pretty bad too. Aligning the panels is impossible due to it being out of focus. I can get them to "line up" but it's just blurry white lines then. I'd like to know that others have successfully had a setup like this and that I'm not asking too much out of the 5050's lens. Epson is going to replace the replacement with another new 5050. They even took down my throw distance, screen size, and projector position, put me on hold for a bit and then came back with "that's not normal, we'll get you a new one."


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> Never heard of it. Is this an ALR treatment or not?


No, it's not. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Does anyone have a similar setup to mine:
> 
> ~12.5' throw
> ~120" screen
> Shelf mounted near the ceiling/level with top of the screen


Glad to hear you're getting good cust. support from them at least!
My setup: ~12.5" throw, 110" screen, mounted in soffit almost at ceiling; lens about 1' above top of screen.
I can't test at the moment, but I'd say my focus and convergence is not too far off from what you're getting in some areas. But I have yet to really lock in the position of the pj, as I've been dealing with heat / ventilation issues in the soffit until recently. So I chalked it up to alignment issues I wasn't willing to worry about yet.


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## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Glad to hear you're getting good cust. support from them at least!
> My setup: ~12.5" throw, 110" screen, mounted in soffit almost at ceiling; lens about 1' above top of screen.
> I can't test at the moment, but I'd say my focus and convergence is not too far off from what you're getting in some areas. But I have yet to really lock in the position of the pj, as I've been dealing with heat / ventilation issues in the soffit until recently. So I chalked it up to alignment issues I wasn't willing to worry about yet.


That would be pretty sad if we can't get a good focus from within spec. I am going to rebuild my quasi hushbox to be a real hushbox and could easily drop the projector a foot, but below that will just be annoying. It doesn't even look like that would fix it. I assume I can get one with a better lens since 75% of the first one was in focus and now 50% of this one is. Shows there is some variation so I'm hoping I swing the other way next time. 

Maybe I can try to flip it and see if the other side of the lens is better 🤷‍♂️ 

Would love to hear from others.


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## Kieran

biglen said:


> No, it's not.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Found your thread on the paintjob you did with missippiman's help. Nice work. What does the "Interstellar" part of the paint name imply? I haven't found reference to that outside your own posts.

In compromise rooms, (e.g. white ceiling required) a good ALR can make all the difference. With a non-ALR screen, a white ceiling would likely drastically degrade the image.
Also the 5050 offers more than just excellent blacks over the competition: many prefer LCD to DLP, and the lens adjustments are bar none the best. 
I do wish the 5050 was smaller, lighter, ran cooler, and had a dust free light engine (aka laser) but there you go... compromise.


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## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> I am going to rebuild my quasi hushbox to be a real hushbox


Make sure you design in good ventilation. I'm a Mechanical Engineer, and did the math based on the volume and published watts consumed by the PJ, and still found it was over heating. Had to bring back my hvac guy to install a bigger/stronger fan.


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## Ricoflashback

PixelPusher15 said:


> I've seen a fair amount of ALR samples and have yet to see one that doesn't add shimmer or grain to the image in highlights. I've seen every Ambient Visionarre sample from Screen Exellelence which all rate very well. I think that trade-off is worth it for a living room if that's what you want but I wouldn't pick it if I had a chance to have a dedicated treated room.
> 
> A huge benefit of a darkened room is that it reduces distraction reflections even if you had an ALR to block the reflections so it doesn't hurt on-screen performance. Some don't seem to be bothered by peripheral reflections but our peripheral vision is biologically programmed to be more attention-grabbing when there are changes. Aka: immersion.


I take it that by "Screen Excellence," you really mean the Seymour Screen Excellence Ambient-Visionaire Black 1.2 screen from Seymour AV? If you have the space for a totally dedicated theater room, AKA "Bat Cave" with Black Velvet Elvis all around you (like his jet black, dyed hair,) including the ceiling, then that's great. But if you do not have that dedicated space or if you just don't like that look - - you can use an ALR screen or in my case, an inexpensive SilverTicket white, 1.2 gain that still looks great. I'm not bothered, at all, about reflections. I really don't see any. Maybe it's the off white, old paint of my house (textured) with the wood paneling. Popcorn ceiling that is off white and even some light spills since the PJ is so close to the ceiling but again, I never notice it when watching content. I guess I just don't focus on it. 

I have a smaller man cave with off white walls and a low end projector (BenQ TK700STi.) No windows, no light from the sides. Very small light from the back that I used to black out with curtains but honestly, it didn't make that much difference and was visually unappealing.

So Seymour AV's products have the shimmer and grain you are talking about? Boy, that's not what is in their description of some of the write-ups I've read about their AVB 1.2 offering. I always value your opinion but I believe ALR screens and even white screens can work in other rooms without as much light as a living room. And work very well.


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## biglen

Kieran said:


> Found your thread on the paintjob you did with missippiman's help. Nice work. What does the "Interstellar" part of the paint name imply? I haven't found reference to that outside your own posts.
> 
> In compromise rooms, (e.g. white ceiling required) a good ALR can make all the difference. With a non-ALR screen, a white ceiling would likely drastically degrade the image.
> Also the 5050 offers more than just excellent blacks over the competition: many prefer LCD to DLP, and the lens adjustments are bar none the best.
> I do wish the 5050 was smaller, lighter, ran cooler, and had a dust free light engine (aka laser) but there you go... compromise.


I'm not sure what the Interstellar means. Maybe just a marketing name? As far as size, weight, and running hot, I don't have an issue with any of them. I built a box in my back wall, which holds the 5050, and I installed a fan in the box, so it never gets hotter than 80° in there. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Ricoflashback

Kieran said:


> Make sure you design in good ventilation. I'm a Mechanical Engineer, and did the math based on the volume and published watts consumed by the PJ, and still found it was over heating. Had to bring back my hvac guy to install a bigger/stronger fan.


So - will laser PJ offerings produce less heat? Also - - and about the yet to be released Epson EH-LS12000B - - less chance of dust blobs with these types of projectors? Obviously, no bulb changes. So one would expect at least five or more years of solid use before the urge to upgrade or any components break down?


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## Ricoflashback

biglen said:


> I'm not sure what the Interstellar means. Maybe just a marketing name? As far as size, weight, and running hot, I don't have an issue with any of them. I built a box in my back wall, which holds the 5050, and I installed a fan in the box, so it never gets hotter than 80° in there.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


That interstellar paint is marketed by William Shatner. He doesn't only do ads for hotels. "Interstellar paint - - your home theater's final frontier..."


----------



## PixelPusher15

Ricoflashback said:


> I take it that by "Screen Excellence," you really mean the Seymour Screen Excellence Ambient-Visionaire Black 1.2 screen from Seymour AV? If you have the space for a totally dedicated theater room, AKA "Bat Cave" with Black Velvet Elvis all around you (like his jet black, dyed hair,) including the ceiling, then that's great. But if you do not have that dedicated space or if you just don't like that look - - you can use an ALR screen or in my case, an inexpensive SilverTicket white, 1.2 gain that still looks great. I'm not bothered, at all, about reflections. I really don't see any. Maybe it's the off white, old paint of my house (textured) with the wood paneling. Popcorn ceiling that is off white and even some light spills since the PJ is so close to the ceiling but again, I never notice it when watching content. I guess I just don't focus on it.
> 
> I have a smaller man cave with off white walls and a low end projector (BenQ TK700STi.) No windows, no light from the sides. Very small light from the back that I used to black out with curtains but honestly, it didn't make that much difference and was visually unappealing.
> 
> So Seymour AV's products have the shimmer and grain you are talking about? Boy, that's not what is in their description of some of the write-ups I've read about their AVB 1.2 offering. I always value your opinion but I believe ALR screens and even white screens can work in other rooms without as much light as a living room. And work very well.


Screen Excellence and Seymour are, from my understanding, two different but same things. I believe Seymour is a US company and Screen Excellence is an English company and they are in partnership with each other. I may be wrong…

I said Screen Excellence because I think the ALR screens are from their side and most of the AT stuff is from Seymour.

And yes, all of their ALR screens (I have a sample of each) have some shimmer when compared to a smooth white screen like the StudioTek 100. Would I pick one for my living room? Heck yeah I would. The slight grain/shimmer on them would be worth the better contrast. I haven’t seen a single screen with gain boosting properties that hasn’t shimmered at least a little bit. Some are unusable, some are very usable. Nothing is equal to a smooth white. I don’t know if it’s physically possible.

I’ll double check the samples if ya want me too, they’re in my theater and it’d take 10min.


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## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Make sure you design in good ventilation. I'm a Mechanical Engineer, and did the math based on the volume and published watts consumed by the PJ, and still found it was over heating. Had to bring back my hvac guy to install a bigger/stronger fan.


If you wouldn’t mind taking some photos/describing your setup I’d really appreciate it. I’ve seen a few for JVCs and Sonys but not for our Epson. I’d like to get an idea of how much air I need to be moving.


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## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> Does anyone have a similar setup to mine:
> 
> ~12.5' throw
> ~120" screen
> Shelf mounted near the ceiling/level with top of the screen
> My 5050 was a refurb and I just sent it back because the bottom right wasn't in focus. The replacement I got back (which is actually a new one) is even worse. It is very hard to focus at all but the bottom entire half of the screen is out of focus on this one. Convergence is pretty bad too. Aligning the panels is impossible due to it being out of focus. I can get them to "line up" but it's just blurry white lines then. I'd like to know that others have successfully had a setup like this and that I'm not asking too much out of the 5050's lens. Epson is going to replace the replacement with another new 5050. They even took down my throw distance, screen size, and projector position, put me on hold for a bit and then came back with "that's not normal, we'll get you a new one."
> View attachment 3184980
> 
> View attachment 3184981
> 
> View attachment 3184982


Andy, I feel your pain. Although Epson gave me excellent support addressing my dust blob I decided to keep my original unit primarily because of the focusing issue of the replacement unit which was a refurb. Here's an excerpt from my post of 5 months ago, "_The refurb had a focusing issue. The image jumps when focusing making it slightly difficult to focus on pixel structure, but more notably the tops of letters, horizontal lines on the on-board 'pattern' and on a crosshatch pattern from a test disc all have fringing causing the horizontal line to be noticeably wider than the much thinner vertical lines. I wasn't able to tune it out via the convergence feature. My original unit has nice straight consistently thin vertical and horizontal lines in comparison._"
Perhaps something has gone awry in production with the focusing mechanisms that has yet to be weeded out.


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## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Andy, I feel your pain. Although Epson gave me excellent support addressing my dust blob I decided to keep my original unit primarily because of the focusing issue of the replacement unit which was a refurb. Here's an excerpt from my post of 5 months ago, "_The refurb had a focusing issue. The image jumps when focusing making it slightly difficult to focus on pixel structure, but more notably the tops of letters, horizontal lines on the on-board 'pattern' and on a crosshatch pattern from a test disc all have fringing causing the horizontal line to be noticeably wider than the much thinner vertical lines. I wasn't able to tune it out via the convergence feature. My original unit has nice straight consistently thin vertical and horizontal lines in comparison._"
> Perhaps something has gone awry in production with the focusing mechanisms that has yet to be weeded out.


Your focusing problem description rings true with what I’m seeing. It is almost like the green panel is out of focus too, and it makes it impossible to get the red and blue to line up.

The good news is that I’ll get another shot at a new 5050. 🤞that it is a good one.


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## Kieran

Ricoflashback said:


> So - will laser PJ offerings produce less heat?


Yes, typically less power consumed and so less heat wasted for same light output, from a laser light engine.
I'm not sure if the sealed light path (dust free) is a laser thing, or a DLP thing, or both. I know that some DLP's are susceptible to dust. Not sure if all laser pj's are sealed and not susceptible.


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## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you wouldn’t mind taking some photos/describing your setup I’d really appreciate it. I’ve seen a few for JVCs and Sonys but not for our Epson. I’d like to get an idea of how much air I need to be moving.


I'd be happy to, but if you are making a hush box, then my situation would lead you astray. I have a soffit that is roughly 2ft^2 in cross section, and about 12 feet long, so a huge volume of air. A hush box can be a much smaller volume of air.
Rule of thumb, IIRC, is to change over the entire volume of air about 1x/min. Going from memory so I'll double check that for you later. So if your hush box is say 2'x2'x2' or 8cuft, you would need a fan that had only 8cfm airlfow minimum. Double that to be safe, and you're still in the ballpark for most computer fans which are super quiet. Then you just have to plan the location of the intake and exhaust well, so air is drawn across the pj, and doesn't fight the direction of flow from the pj (exhaust out the front on the 5050).


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## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> I'd be happy to, but if you are making a hush box, then my situation would lead you astray. I have a soffit that is roughly 2ft^2 in cross section, and about 12 feet long, so a huge volume of air. A hush box can be a much smaller volume of air.
> Rule of thumb, IIRC, is to change over the entire volume of air about 1x/min. Going from memory so I'll double check that for you later. So if your hush box is say 2'x2'x2' or 8cuft, you would need a fan that had only 8cfm airlfow minimum. Double that to be safe, and you're still in the ballpark for most computer fans which are super quiet. Then you just have to plan the location of the intake and exhaust well, so air is drawn across the pj, and doesn't fight the direction of flow from the pj (exhaust out the front on the 5050).


Thanks for this! My plan was to run a flex pipe directly to the inlet and then one directly from the outlet to my main basement area. Goal being to get the hot air out of the room since it gets pretty stuffy in there after a couple hours of HDR.


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## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Thanks for this! My plan was to run a flex pipe directly to the inlet and then one directly from the outlet to my main basement area. Goal being to get the hot air out of the room since it gets pretty stuffy in there after a couple hours of HDR.


Sounds like a good plan, but couldn't you just use room (basement) air as the inlet, and simply exhaust hot air from the box out the flex pipe? Maybe I'm misunderstanding your meaning.


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## DaGamePimp

PixelPusher15 said:


> Does anyone have a similar setup to mine:
> 
> ~12.5' throw
> ~120" screen
> Shelf mounted near the ceiling/level with top of the screen
> My 5050 was a refurb and I just sent it back because the bottom right wasn't in focus. The replacement I got back (which is actually a new one) is even worse. It is very hard to focus at all but the bottom entire half of the screen is out of focus on this one. Convergence is pretty bad too. Aligning the panels is impossible due to it being out of focus. I can get them to "line up" but it's just blurry white lines then. I'd like to know that others have successfully had a setup like this and that I'm not asking too much out of the 5050's lens. Epson is going to replace the replacement with another new 5050. They even took down my throw distance, screen size, and projector position, put me on hold for a bit and then came back with "that's not normal, we'll get you a new one."


Andy, I know you know this already but for the sake of the less informed (or a new owner) that might be silently reading along... 

The Epson, by design, is a zero offset unit that is meant to throw from the middle of the lens to the middle of the screen for an optimal 'optical' presentation. Of course that is going to account for a smaller percentage of installs as it simply is not practical for most rooms.

Now obviously there is sample to sample variance and the 5050ub has a good lens but, generally speaking, the more lens shift in use the more optical image anomalies are possible/probable.

Most often uneven focus is from misalignment or lens shift, which is not to imply that suspect units are not out in the wild, they are (the number of refurbs Epson makes available is telling).

I know this is not what your setup demands but have you tried the unit with zero offset shooting at the middle of your screen (or even upside down on the high shelf, properly supported of course)?

Zero offset will not correct PA but the optics can certainly exaggerate it.

If some of the issues are corrected, by shooting from a different lens area, then you may find it difficult to get that golden sample that just works for your install.

Best of luck,
Jason


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## PixelPusher15

DaGamePimp said:


> Andy, I know you know this already but for the sake of the less informed (or a new owner) that might be silently reading along...
> 
> The Epson, by design, is a zero offset unit that is meant to throw from the middle of the lens to the middle of the screen for an optimal 'optical' presentation. Of course that is going to account for a smaller percentage of installs as it simply is not practical for most rooms.
> 
> Now obviously there is sample to sample variance and the 5050ub has a good lens but, generally speaking, the more lens shift in use the more optical image anomalies are possible/probable.
> 
> Most often uneven focus is from misalignment or lens shift, which is not to imply that suspect units are not out in the wild, they are (the number of refurbs Epson makes available is telling).
> 
> I know this is not what your setup demands but have you tried the unit with zero offset shooting at the middle of your screen (or even upside down on the high shelf, properly supported of course)?
> 
> Zero offset will not correct PA but the optics can certainly exaggerate it.
> 
> If some of the issues are corrected, by shooting from a different lens area, then you may find it difficult to get that golden sample that just works for your install.
> 
> Best of luck,
> Jason


Hey Jason, thinks for the explanation. I do know that but sometimes it’s nice to have it written up when your not in the middle of dealing with it. I wish I had tried flipping the first one upside down before sending it back. That one was much better overall. This current one is having issues getting good convergence and focus all over the image, even the top most area which would be at the center of the lens. I flipped it and it is the same. I think I got the opposite of a golden sample with this one. I’m really fine moving it down some which would get me about 1/3 of the way down from the top so that’s not using an extreme amount of shift. I’m wondering if my near max wide zoom is the bigger issue with this.


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## Carterhawk

rollon1980 said:


> Haha! Honestly, Epson doesn’t share information with their own regional offices, why would they share it with the public? We are shocked! Not! 😂
> 
> Funny they only quoted firmware 1.04 changes. The change was made in 1.03. Not that they would tell us anything regardless. They are a bit funny.
> 
> 
> The facts remain… this was not how 24hz looked on original firmware and it’s resolving more detail. It sure does not look like “tightening up” the pixel shifting as the pixel structure is different. Ridiculous. I don’t care if their CEO denies it and swears on a Bible. 🤣
> 
> View attachment 3178347
> View attachment 3178348



This is very interesting to see. I'm thinking about moving up to the 5050ub from the 5025ub, but I also use my projector as my computer display in lieu of a monitor so text sharpness is a major factor. I went with the 5025 in the first place because it has that top-notch contrast and good sharpness. Looking at this image, it seems like the 4k pixel-shift mode has a much worse text sharpness compared to what my 5025 puts out, eg I'd be stuck running the unit in 1080p when on the desktop if I want to be able to ready anything. I don't suppose you could throw up the some test text off of Windows directly at 4k60?


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## Kieran

DaGamePimp said:


> The Epson, by design, is a zero offset unit that is meant to throw from the middle of the lens to the middle of the screen for an optimal 'optical' presentation. Of course that is going to account for a smaller percentage of installs as it simply is not practical for most rooms.


This was also (in addition to me not nitpicking over the minute alignment of the pj to the screen yet) why I was tolerant of slight focus & convergence issues. I use a fair bit of zoom, and a healthy amount of vertical lens shift with a touch of horizontal. All in, I don't expect to get PERFECT focus across the entire image. But I do suspect I can improve it a bit with some seriously OCD work on aligning the pj axis to be centered and purrrrrfectly perpendicular to the screen.


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## biglen

RVD26 said:


> Just switched to HDMI 2 so I'll see how things go. However, I just realized none of my settings from HDMI 1 carried over to HDMI 2 so I have to calibrate again.


@RVD26 , did switching to HDMI 2 fix your issue ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## rollon1980

Carterhawk said:


> This is very interesting to see. I'm thinking about moving up to the 5050ub from the 5025ub, but I also use my projector as my computer display in lieu of a monitor so text sharpness is a major factor. I went with the 5025 in the first place because it has that top-notch contrast and good sharpness. Looking at this image, it seems like the 4k pixel-shift mode has a much worse text sharpness compared to what my 5025 puts out, eg I'd be stuck running the unit in 1080p when on the desktop if I want to be able to ready anything. I don't suppose you could throw up the some test text off of Windows directly at 4k60?


Windows at 4K 60 is not going to be that sharp, definitely not 4K native. It’s great at 24hz for moving video but even then I’m not sure it’s quite good for a Windows desktop. 

I can’t right now, apologies. Maybe someone else can? Otherwise I’ll try to do that at the weekend!


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## Pretorian

PixelPusher15 said:


> Dynamic and medium power on a 106" is like using a flame thrower to light a candle for SDR content. Colors are going to be yuck and contrast won't be great. Try Natural with lamp in Eco at first. That should give you plenty. So much so that you can most likely bump the manual iris down to -5 to -10. This should help with contrast. Maybe it will be too dim for you. You can try Natural/Medium/Iris = -7. For HDR, I'd try Natural/Medium/Iris = 0.
> 
> For both, try setting the gamma at -1 or -2. Every review I saw had gamma at -1 or -2 and not the default at 0.
> 
> Don't forget about the HDR brightness slider. I bounce between 8 and 5.


I watched a 1080p SDR movie yesterday and could not find the HDR brightness slider. Silly question but is that option only available when feeding the PJ an HDR signal?


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## Pretorian

Since people are discussing soffits and hush-box I can share my version. 
i built this so that I can in the future install a larger screen. And it feels good to not hear that much from the PJ.
I still have work to do but for now this is good.


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## rekbones

Pretorian said:


> I watched a 1080p SDR movie yesterday and could not find the HDR brightness slider. Silly question but is that option only available when feeding the PJ an HDR signal?


Why would a "HDR" slider work on SRD? Not asking a question at all is silly so ask away, but you answered your own question.


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## Lord of Cinder

Pretorian said:


> I watched a 1080p SDR movie yesterday and could not find the HDR brightness slider. Silly question but is that option only available when feeding the PJ an HDR signal?


HDR slider its only available with HDR content, or by forcing a sSDR signal to HDR, which doesn't make sense.


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## RVD26

biglen said:


> @RVD26 , did switching to HDMI 2 fix your issue ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I've barely watched any content on the projector since I switched to HDMI 2 yesterday, so it's too soon to tell. I should have a better idea after this weekend.


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## Kieran

Pretorian said:


> I watched a 1080p SDR movie yesterday and could not find the HDR brightness slider. Silly question but is that option only available when feeding the PJ an HDR signal?


It's still there, but it's greyed out, IIRC, when playing SDR content. Hit the HDR button on the Epson remote, it's on that pop-up menu.


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## Kieran

Pretorian said:


> Since people are discussing soffits and hush-box I can share my version.
> i built this so that I can in the future install a larger screen. And it feels good to not hear that much from the PJ.
> I still have work to do but for now this is good.


Cool! That shot looking at the projector through the hole is nifty... seems like the hole is much smaller when viewed from the side. You measured well & carefully! Now to trim out the edges and make it look finished.  
I remember your room! You're the one with the powered blackout blinds that I want but can't find in the US.


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## reechings

Yeah I always find it pretty cool the amount of lens shift these units are able to do.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


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## hms17B

Concerning panel alignment. My 5050 is off a bit so I did whole panel vertical with with a tiny bit of horizontal. Then did corners and intersections to get it pretty exact overall. Without the alignment I can see a little red fringing particularly on white items in the image. I know that alignment, at least intersections, is digital but seeing that red fringe even if only a couple of pixels wide was driving me nuts. Kind of like a static rainbow effect. Whatever alignment loses in resolution, for me is more than made up by losing extraneous coloring here and there. Guess we can't have it all.


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## Pretorian

Kieran said:


> Cool! That shot looking at the projector through the hole is nifty... seems like the hole is much smaller when viewed from the side. You measured well & carefully! Now to trim out the edges and make it look finished.
> I remember your room! You're the one with the powered blackout blinds that I want but can't find in the US.


Yes that is me. The opening looks better now but there is still some work to be done.
I am also trying to figure out how and where to install fans so the projector is not overheating.


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## mauro145

PixelPusher15 said:


> Does anyone have a similar setup to mine:
> 
> ~12.5' throw
> ~120" screen
> Shelf mounted near the ceiling/level with top of the screen
> My 5050 was a refurb and I just sent it back because the bottom right wasn't in focus. The replacement I got back (which is actually a new one) is even worse. It is very hard to focus at all but the bottom entire half of the screen is out of focus on this one. Convergence is pretty bad too. Aligning the panels is impossible due to it being out of focus. I can get them to "line up" but it's just blurry white lines then. I'd like to know that others have successfully had a setup like this and that I'm not asking too much out of the 5050's lens. Epson is going to replace the replacement with another new 5050. They even took down my throw distance, screen size, and projector position, put me on hold for a bit and then came back with "that's not normal, we'll get you a new one."
> View attachment 3184980
> 
> View attachment 3184981
> 
> View attachment 3184982


My projector is also on a shelf high on the wall and the bottom half of the screen is less focused than the top half. I always thought it's because the projector is meant to be upside down when is installed hanging from the ceiling. Did you try putting the projector on a table in front of the screen and see if things Change?

Sent from my XQ-AU52 using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

mauro145 said:


> My projector is also on a shelf high on the wall and the bottom half of the screen is less focused than the top half. I always thought it's because the projector is meant to be upside down when is installed hanging from the ceiling. Did you try putting the projector on a table in front of the screen and see if things Change?
> 
> Sent from my XQ-AU52 using Tapatalk


No but I flipped it. As I said before, I wish I would have tried more in the previous 5050. This current one is much worse and it’s actually visibly less sharp over most of the image. At this point I think I swapped a decent sample for a bad egg.


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## Deckard71

Hello

I am thinking about upgrading from my TW-7000 (HC3200 in US) to a TW-9400w (6050UB in US). Despite I am quite happy with the TW-7000, I am looking for improved PQ, especially contrast. But there are two things that somehow stop me from moving. One is the stupidity of having to pay more for the 9400*w* vs the 9400, as I need it in white, but I do not need the wirless transmitter. Te other thing is that the 9400 has less lumens (2600) than the 7000 (3000) and many times I watch sports with some lightroom

Is the 9400 luminosity poorer than the 7000's? Can it be used with some daylight?


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## PixelPusher15

*BRIGHTNESS: MID ZOOM, HIGH LAMP UNLESS NOTED*


















Cinema on the 5050 engages the color filter which the 3200 doesn't have so Cinema here is equal to each other. Bright Cinema is equal and the 5050 actually has more output in Dynamic. The 5050 should be plenty bright.

The 5050 will have 4x to 5x the contrast of the 3200. It would be a pretty large jump up in performance


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## RVD26

Is there a consensus recommended color mode for the 5050? I know picture settings are very subjective and subject to room settings, etc.
But I was just wondering if there was a a general consensus (Natural, Cinema, Bright Cinema, etc.). 
Right now I have mine on Bright Cinema, but wondering if I should be using some other setting to get accurate colors.


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## Deckard71

PixelPusher15 said:


> *BRIGHTNESS: MID ZOOM, HIGH LAMP UNLESS NOTED*
> View attachment 3185602
> 
> 
> View attachment 3185603
> 
> 
> Cinema on the 5050 engages the color filter which the 3200 doesn't have so Cinema here is equal to each other. Bright Cinema is equal and the 5050 actually has more output in Dynamic. The 5050 should be plenty bright.
> 
> The 5050 will have 4x to 5x the contrast of the 3200. It would be a pretty large jump up in performance


Thanks! Second table is 3200, right? I like Natural the most. Do you know how they compare in Eco mode? I prefer not to use the lamp on High


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## PixelPusher15

Deckard71 said:


> Thanks! Second table is 3200, right? I like Natural the most. Do you know how they compare in Eco mode? I prefer not to use the lamp on High


Yeah, the second one was the 3200.

Eco on the 5050 cuts light output by ~35%. The 5050 also has a Medium option. 

I'm pulling these numbers from here: Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Review - Performance: Brightness, Sharpness - Projector Reviews

And here: Epson Home Cinema 3200 Home Theater Projector Review - Performance - Projector Reviews


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## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> Is there a consensus recommended color mode for the 5050? I know picture settings are very subjective and subject to room settings, etc.
> But I was just wondering if there was a a general consensus (Natural, Cinema, Bright Cinema, etc.).
> Right now I have mine on Bright Cinema, but wondering if I should be using some other setting to get accurate colors.


Natural seems to be the most common starting point for calibration. 

There's a lot of variables but in all the reviews I have seen the 5050 pushes a little blue and the default gamma is too high. I'd try Natural, Gamma at -2, and try bumping the color temp down one notch it starts at 6500, I think the next step down is 6000. This may not work and it might get too warm but it is worth a try.


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## rekbones

Deckard71 said:


> Hello
> 
> I am thinking about upgrading from my TW-7000 (HC3200 in US) to a TW-9400w (6050UB in US). Despite I am quite happy with the TW-7000, I am looking for improved PQ, especially contrast. But there are two things that somehow stop me from moving. One is the stupidity of having to pay more for the 9400*w* vs the 9400, as I need it in white, but I do not need the wirless transmitter. Te other thing is that the 9400 has less lumens (2600) than the 7000 (3000) and many times I watch sports with some lightroom
> 
> Is the 9400 luminosity poorer than the 7000's? Can it be used with some daylight?


Since you want a white projector (we have the opposite issue as we have to pay extra for a black case) I am assuming you have it mounted on a white ceiling in most likely a light colored room. Turn your projector off and turn the lights on at a level you would like to watch sports at and look how white your screen is. That's the blackest black you will ever get with any projector in the world so impossible to get good contrast. The tw-9400 if you have no ambient light on even in your white room will look better but as soon as you turn any lights on any difference will likely disappear so the tw-9400 may even look worse as it is a little dimer.


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## RVD26

PixelPusher15 said:


> Natural seems to be the most common starting point for calibration.
> 
> There's a lot of variables but in all the reviews I have seen the 5050 pushes a little blue and the default gamma is too high. I'd try Natural, Gamma at -2, and try bumping the color temp down one notch it starts at 6500, I think the next step down is 6000. This may not work and it might get too warm but it is worth a try.


Thanks. I know you also use a spandex screen and I was told it was preferred to use Bright Cinema on spandex screens. Do you find that to be true?


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## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> Thanks. I know you also use a spandex screen and I was told it was preferred to use Bright Cinema on spandex screens. Do you find that to be true?


Not at all. I use Natural. But I also calibrate my own stuff. Natural is the most color accurate out of the box, Bright Cinema pushes blue pretty hard. I’d only use Bright Cinema if I needed some more light to combat ambient light and didn’t want to go full on Dynamic. YMMV though


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## trailblazer

hms17B said:


> Concerning panel alignment. My 5050 is off a bit so I did whole panel vertical with with a tiny bit of horizontal. Then did corners and intersections to get it pretty exact overall. Without the alignment I can see a little red fringing particularly on white items in the image. I know that alignment, at least intersections, is digital but seeing that red fringe even if only a couple of pixels wide was driving me nuts. Kind of like a static rainbow effect. Whatever alignment loses in resolution, for me is more than made up by losing extraneous coloring here and there. Guess we can't have it all.


I did a panel alignment at every single intersection of the screen and the picture is as sharp as a tack without any color fringing anywhere. I have perfect alignment now.


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## PixelPusher15

trailblazer said:


> I did a panel alignment at every single intersection of the screen and the picture is as sharp as a tack without any color fringing anywhere. I have perfect alignment now.


Can you describe your projector placement/throw and screen size?


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## Carterhawk

rollon1980 said:


> Windows at 4K 60 is not going to be that sharp, definitely not 4K native. It’s great at 24hz for moving video but even then I’m not sure it’s quite good for a Windows desktop.
> 
> I can’t right now, apologies. Maybe someone else can? Otherwise I’ll try to do that at the weekend!


Makes sense, and I could probably be fine leaving the desktop at 1080p and running games in 4k60, and use my roku for streaming content. Given my timeframe on this is probably next year at the soonest I may end up waiting to see what Epson does for a 5050ub successor, not in any great rush to upgrade thankfully, though my 5025 seems to be getting a bit worn out after passing at least 10,000 hours in the last 6 years, a small bit of taskbar burn-in, some off color in grays on the edges, and what seems to be a very slowly worsening color-fringing issue that I don't think can just be attributed to the optics of the lens. At distance it's still a very solid image, but I do not think I can get it quite as sharp as it was the day I first installed it. My hope for a 5060ub would be improved pixel-shifting to make the desktop at 4k sharp enough for daily use, I really can't see going to any of the DLP 4k shifters because the tradeoff in image quality is just too big, especially contrast, I do all my photo editing this way (i have a perfectly light controlled environment) so the contrast being as punchy as possible is a huge factor and nothing seems to match the Epsons at this price point.


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## Kieran

trailblazer said:


> I did a panel alignment at every single intersection of the screen and the picture is as sharp as a tack without any color fringing anywhere. I have perfect alignment now.





PixelPusher15 said:


> Can you describe your projector placement/throw and screen size?


@trailblazer Can you also describe your process?


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## eieio

trailblazer said:


> I did a panel alignment at every single intersection of the screen and the picture is as sharp as a tack without any color fringing anywhere. I have perfect alignment now.


I didn't know that this is a function of the projector that we may use to fine tune.

May i ask if it's an easily performed procedure or somewhat difficult?

Thanks. 

Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

eieio said:


> I didn't know that this is a function of the projector that we may use to fine tune.
> 
> May i ask if it's an easily performed procedure or somewhat difficult?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk


It's a piece of cake, really. Just follow the owner's manual instructions and be patient. I did it when I installed my 5050 over two years ago and it hasn't drifted. I check it about every six months and after lamp replacement (due to potential jostling of the projector).


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## eieio

fredworld said:


> It's a piece of cake, really. Just follow the owner's manual instructions and be patient. I did it when I installed my 5050 over two years ago and it hasn't drifted. I check it about every six months and after lamp replacement (due to potential jostling of the projector).


So that means for every new projector, one ought to perform this?

The pounding the box gets when being transported here can't be good for the projector!



Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk


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## Kieran

eieio said:


> So that means for every new projector, one ought to perform this?
> 
> The pounding the box gets when being transported here can't be good for the projector!


All displays of all kinds should be "calibrated" to some extent (either basic DIY or professional) once installed and broken-in. So, to answer your question, yes.


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## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Not at all. I use Natural. But I also calibrate my own stuff. Natural is the most color accurate out of the box, Bright Cinema pushes blue pretty hard. I’d only use Bright Cinema if I needed some more light to combat ambient light and didn’t want to go full on Dynamic. YMMV though


I had my 5050 professionally calibrated by Kevin Miller, who specializes in Epsons. The HDR setup he made for me, uses Bright Cinema. I'd imagine he corrected the blue push, because the picture is amazing. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## hms17B

Kieran said:


> All displays of all kinds should be "calibrated" to some extent (either basic DIY or professional) once installed and broken-in. So, to answer your question, yes.


There's talk in here about not using panel alignment, except maybe whole panel, to preserve 1:1 pixel mapping. That would be ideal, but if one sees fringing, most noticeable with red, then one might have to do alignment if the fringing is bothersome. In the end it comes down to resolution versus fringing - which do you notice more under normal viewing? For me, I don't notice any degradation in resolution after alignment, but I very much notice the fringing without alignment. So I do panel alignment to preserve sanity.

Some units might be close enough from the factory to not need alignment and some might need quite a bit. Mine was off most with red vertically, plus a bit more here and there. So I did whole panel for red. Then I looked at some normal viewing and still saw fringing in places. So I went back in and did corner and intersection for red. Blue misalignment is harder to notice, but since I'd already done red, I did a few intersections for blue.


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> I had my 5050 professionally calibrated by Kevin Miller, who specializes in Epsons. The HDR setup he made for me, uses Bright Cinema. I'd imagine he corrected the blue push, because the picture is amazing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I was almost going to say something about using it for HDR because it will be brighter but using it in it's default state it will be less color accurate and Natural will probably be preferred. Also, calibrating for HDR is a bit more of an art than a science so there is going to be some more differences


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## eieio

hms17B said:


> There's talk in here about *not using panel alignment*, except maybe whole panel, to preserve 1:1 pixel mapping. That would be ideal, but if one sees fringing, most noticeable with red, then one might have to do alignment if the fringing is bothersome. In the end it comes down to resolution versus fringing - which do you notice more under normal viewing? For me, I don't notice any degradation in resolution after alignment, but I very much notice the fringing without alignment. So I do panel alignment to preserve sanity.
> 
> Some units might be close enough from the factory to not need alignment and some might need quite a bit. Mine was off most with red vertically, plus a bit more here and there. So I did whole panel for red. Then I looked at some normal viewing and still saw fringing in places. So I went back in and did corner and intersection for red. Blue misalignment is harder to notice, but since I'd already done red, I did a few intersections for blue.


i'm confused now. 

someone posted that one ought to ALWAYS do panel alignments as the jostling during transportation would knock some things out of alignment. ok, fine.

then, @hms17B posted that there's talk by others that doing alignment might not "preserve 1:1 pixel mapping". i don't know what that means. might someone be kind enough to educate me on that please? thank you in advance.

my question would be this: IF one were to perform panel alignments (which i don't yet know how to do, but i can follow instructions from a manual), let's say even multiple times of panel alignments, as someone suggested, over a period of time, and there are undesirable effects resulting from these various panel alignment adjustments that i made. Is there a way to "revert back to factory"? if so, one loses very little, right? however, if there is NO "revert back to factory settings", then we have a problem, don't we?


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## Kieran

Are you happy with your image, @eieio ? If not, are the issues you have with the image something that can potentially be addressed by fixing or mitigating panel alignment errors? If so then you should do panel alignment.
If you are happy with your image the way it is, or the issues you have with the image are not issues that might be caused by panel alignment problems, then you should leave it alone.


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## rekbones

eieio said:


> i'm confused now.
> 
> someone posted that one ought to ALWAYS do panel alignments as the jostling during transportation would knock some things out of alignment. ok, fine.
> 
> then, @hms17B posted that there's talk by others that doing alignment might not "preserve 1:1 pixel mapping". i don't know what that means. might someone be kind enough to educate me on that please? thank you in advance.
> 
> my question would be this: IF one were to perform panel alignments (which i don't yet know how to do, but i can follow instructions from a manual), let's say even multiple times of panel alignments, as someone suggested, over a period of time, and there are undesirable effects resulting from these various panel alignment adjustments that i made. Is there a way to "revert back to factory"? if so, one loses very little, right? however, if there is NO "revert back to factory settings", then we have a problem, don't we?


All you need to do is disable panel alignment and it will go back to its native alignment. With panel alignment enabled you are actually enabling some form of "scaling" so in essence you no longer have what's called one to one pixel mapping. If this effects the picture is up for debate but if it's off enough then it should be worth it. I have it disabled and I do have one corner off on red by maybe 1/2 pixel but the majority of my alignment is spot on.


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## eieio

rekbones said:


> All you need to do is disable panel alignment and it will go back to its native alignment. With panel alignment enabled you are actually enabling some form of "scaling" so in essence you no longer have what's called one to one pixel mapping. If this effects the picture is up for debate but if it's off enough then it should be worth it. I have it disabled and I do have one corner off on red by maybe 1/2 pixel but the majority of my alignment is spot on.


Thanks guys for the expanded explanation.

I think i need even more education as to what i should look for in terms of a misalignment or what makes a picture "off".

i had an Epson 8700 for the past 11 years or so and recently (1 week ago!) replaced it with the 6050. i never did anything with my 8700 and enjoyed it for that long a period of time (besides changing the bulb). so...this is all new to me. exciting, but i need to be educated.

any advice, explanations, would be most appreciated, on this thread, or via private messaging, i welcome both.

thank you!


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## PixelPusher15

eieio said:


> Thanks guys for the expanded explanation.
> 
> I think i need even more education as to what i should look for in terms of a misalignment or what makes a picture "off".
> 
> i had an Epson 8700 for the past 11 years or so and recently (1 week ago!) replaced it with the 6050. i never did anything with my 8700 and enjoyed it for that long a period of time (besides changing the bulb). so...this is all new to me. exciting, but i need to be educated.
> 
> any advice, explanations, would be most appreciated, on this thread, or via private messaging, i welcome both.
> 
> thank you!


Honestly, don't become educated if you can avoid it. We'd be happy to explain but a lot of times ignorance is bliss. If you are happy with your picture then stay happy, be happy.


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## eieio

PixelPusher15 said:


> Honestly, don't become educated if you can avoid it. We'd be happy to explain but a lot of times ignorance is bliss. If you are happy with your picture then stay happy, be happy.


haha, that's funny.

well, i upgraded my bedroom tv and my living room projector at the same time. unbelievably, my bedroom's new tv is shockingly nice! its image is far superior to what i had imagined possible.

as i had the bedroom tv upgraded and mounted roughly a week prior to the living room projector mounted, i had a week to get used to the new bedroom tv's image quality. that put a small damper on the improvements the 6050 gave me compared with my previous 8700 Epson. sure, it's a lot nicer than my 8700 Epson which i've used for 11 years. BUT, the bedroom tv is very large, an OLED, and still, it gives a shockingly great image improvement, beyond my expectations!


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## Kieran

eieio said:


> haha, that's funny.
> 
> well, i upgraded my bedroom tv and my living room projector at the same time. unbelievably, my bedroom's new tv is shockingly nice! its image is far superior to what i had imagined possible.
> 
> as i had the bedroom tv upgraded and mounted roughly a week prior to the living room projector mounted, i had a week to get used to the new bedroom tv's image quality. that put a small damper on the improvements the 6050 gave me compared with my previous 8700 Epson. sure, it's a lot nicer than my 8700 Epson which i've used for 11 years. BUT, the bedroom tv is very large, and still, it gives a shockingly great image improvement, beyond my expectations!


Well, even the best PJ's can't compete with most OLED displays. FPJ has it's benefits (movie theater feel, super large size, electric screens can disappear when not in use, large screen can be installed in rooms where a large TV won't fit, e.g. basements) but it just can't compare to good direct views in pure image quality. If the direct view works for your needs, it's usually better.


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## hms17B

eieio said:


> i'm confused now.
> 
> someone posted that one ought to ALWAYS do panel alignments as the jostling during transportation would knock some things out of alignment. ok, fine.
> 
> then, @hms17B posted that there's talk by others that doing alignment might not "preserve 1:1 pixel mapping". i don't know what that means. might someone be kind enough to educate me on that please? thank you in advance.
> 
> my question would be this: IF one were to perform panel alignments (which i don't yet know how to do, but i can follow instructions from a manual), let's say even multiple times of panel alignments, as someone suggested, over a period of time, and there are undesirable effects resulting from these various panel alignment adjustments that i made. Is there a way to "revert back to factory"? if so, one loses very little, right? however, if there is NO "revert back to factory settings", then we have a problem, don't we?


Doing panel alignment can mess up 1:1 pixel mapping a bit, so better if not done. Panel misalignment can cause noticeable color fringing to some, so in that case better if alignment is done. Sort of a no-win scenario if you have noticeable misalignment.

If you don't notice any fringing, don't go looking for it and don't do panel alignment. But if you do notice fringing and it drives you mad, then try alignment - any loss of resolution anywhere will probably be less noticeable than the fringing was.


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## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> Natural seems to be the most common starting point for calibration.
> 
> There's a lot of variables but in all the reviews I have seen the 5050 pushes a little blue and the default gamma is too high. I'd try Natural, Gamma at -2, and try bumping the color temp down one notch it starts at 6500, I think the next step down is 6000. This may not work and it might get too warm but it is worth a try.


This matches my exact settings after running through the Spears and Munsil calibration. I use Natural for all SDR content and for gaming in HDR and SDR. For HDR films I use Bright Cinema which I believe was more or less accurate out of the box, the only thing is I knocked the brightness down to 49.


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## Enchy

On this topic of out of focus areas of the screen, I have an odd issue with mine where the top right corner is lower than the left. I've spent _hours_ trying to correct this, but no matter what I do I cannot get a perfect rectangle out of mine. I chalked it up to it being on a shelf and not being able to align it perfectly, or possibly I thought it could be due to lens shift, as I shift mine about 14" to the left. I zoomed in a little bit further so the edges overlap my screen and called it a day, but could this possible be a panel alignment issue?


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## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> On this topic of out of focus areas of the screen, I have an odd issue with mine where the top right corner is lower than the left. I've spent _hours_ trying to correct this, but no matter what I do I cannot get a perfect rectangle out of mine. I chalked it up to it being on a shelf and not being able to align it perfectly, or possibly I thought it could be due to lens shift, as I shift mine about 14" to the left. I zoomed in a little bit further so the edges overlap my screen and called it a day, but could this possible be a panel alignment issue?


Shouldn't be. Have you verified your screen is square?

What I have found to work with alignment situations like this is to (in your situation) raise the projector leg on the right side of the screen until the gap is equal on the top and bottom of the screen. Then, rotate the projector so the image is off the screen to the right 3-4 inches. Then use lens shift to bring it back on screen. There's a chance that you need to do this a couple of times and in the end, the image may be slightly tilted. At that point, it is an easy fix of just leveling the feet. 

Basically, I think your projector is probably rotated ever so slightly toward the left.

Gosh I hope I got directions correct there lol.


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## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> Shouldn't be. Have you verified your screen is square?


... This never crossed my mind and I don't think I've checked it. Should I also check if it's the same distance from the wall on all four corners? I had trouble getting it to mount well, It's dead level but I think the top left mount has a few mm of play where it can move further or closer to the wall.



PixelPusher15 said:


> What I have found to work with alignment situations like this is to (in your situation) raise the projector leg on the right side of the screen until the gap is equal on the top and bottom of the screen. Then, rotate the projector so the image is off the screen to the right 3-4 inches. Then use lens shift to bring it back on screen. There's a chance that you need to do this a couple of times and in the end, the image may be slightly tilted. At that point, it is an easy fix of just leveling the feet.


I'll give this a shot next time I'm feeling up to it. I'm a pretty patient person but projector alignment really pushes my limits. I regret not going with a ceiling mount.


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## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Shouldn't be. Have you verified your screen is square?
> 
> What I have found to work with alignment situations like this is to (in your situation) raise the projector leg on the right side of the screen until the gap is equal on the top and bottom of the screen. Then, rotate the projector so the image is off the screen to the right 3-4 inches. Then use lens shift to bring it back on screen. There's a chance that you need to do this a couple of times and in the end, the image may be slightly tilted. At that point, it is an easy fix of just leveling the feet.
> 
> Basically, I think your projector is probably rotated ever so slightly toward the left.
> 
> Gosh I hope I got directions correct there lol.


This is what I did to get perfectly squared with the screen. A combination of zooming in/out, lens-shift, raising leg(s), rotating unit clockwise/counter-clockwise on the shelf. Go back and forth until it's square. The Spears & Munsil alignment pattern is excellent for this. It has small triangles right at the edge of the image (top, bottom, both sides) that should exactly touch the screen border when all is square.


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## hms17B

Enchy said:


> ... This never crossed my mind and I don't think I've checked it. Should I also check if it's the same distance from the wall on all four corners? I had trouble getting it to mount well, It's dead level but I think the top left mount has a few mm of play where it can move further or closer to the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll give this a shot next time I'm feeling up to it. I'm a pretty patient person but projector alignment really pushes my limits. I regret not going with a ceiling mount.


I would first make sure the screen is level horizontally, plumb vertically, and equidistant from the wall it's mounted on. Good if the shelf is also level front-to-back and side-to-side, but if not that's what the projector legs are for. Then make up for what's off by zooming, lens-shifting, extending legs, rotating the projector. It tool me a while, but probably under a half-hour.


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## Enchy

I've been using the built in alignment pattern but I'll switch to the Spears and Munsil one next time I give it a go. 

I have a feeling my screen might be a smidge taller in the middle than the sides. I'm going to check for that too. 

All this to say I'm more or less okay with just zooming in a little too much and having some overlap. It's only super noticeable in some video game UIs.


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## Zedekias

If anyone really wants to see what kind of blacks the 5050 is capable of, search for "oled black demo" on YouTube. 

I've had the projector for nearly a year and haven't quite seen this. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Enchy

How the heck are you guys raising and lowering the back of this thing if it's on a shelf? I've been sticking cardboard under there but I'm assuming there's a more elegant method.


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## hms17B

Enchy said:


> How the heck are you guys raising and lowering the back of this thing if it's on a shelf? I've been sticking cardboard under there but I'm assuming there's a more elegant method.


I don't - I can do it with the front legs. But if you can't, maybe something like a hard rubber washer might work. That wouldn't compress and would keep some friction between the back foot and the shelf to lessen any chance of slipping. If a washer is a bit too thick you can compensate by raising the front legs a bit.


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## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> How the heck are you guys raising and lowering the back of this thing if it's on a shelf? I've been sticking cardboard under there but I'm assuming there's a more elegant method.


You shouldn’t have to with the amount of lens shift this has unless your projector is way above the screen.


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## Ricoflashback

PixelPusher15 said:


> You shouldn’t have to with the amount of lens shift this has unless your projector is way above the screen.


Assuming it’s level, correct?


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## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> You shouldn’t have to with the amount of lens shift this has unless your projector is way above the screen.


Well I needed to raise the back in order to correct the image being wider at the top than the bottom after raising the front legs to adjust the tilt.


hms17B said:


> I don't - I can do it with the front legs. But if you can't, maybe something like a hard rubber washer might work. That wouldn't compress and would keep some friction between the back foot and the shelf to lessen any chance of slipping. If a washer is a bit too thick you can compensate by raising the front legs a bit.


I ended up using groups of the staples you use in a staple gun because I could break them off into more exact lengths to get the height right. Each staple being about 1mm I could then achieve the ~7mm of rear lift I needed to correct the keystoning.

Spent about an hour and fifteen minutes last night re-adjusting everything. Verified my screen was square at all corners and level and plumb on all sides. The distance from the wall is mostly uniform maybe at most an eighth of an inch variation between the mounting points. Started from square one and went from there. Ended up being pretty darn close to perfect but I still ended up over-zooming a smidge as I still couldn't get the top right corner perfect and after spending an hour trying I was exhausted. I'm happier with my alignment now as the overzoom isn't as drastic but boy this was tedious.

Definitely getting an easy to adjust ceiling mount next time, whenever that is.

Capped off the night watching Gravity in 3D. I am constantly impressed with the image quality of this thing. I recently hooked my PS3 back up as I'm going to use it for Region B 3D blu rays, and I ended up playing a couple games in 3D as well. It's a shame 3D is mostly out of fashion now, My first experience with 3D at home was getting this projector this year and it's my favorite way to experience movies now.


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## fredworld

Enchy said:


> Well I needed to raise the back in order to correct the image being wider at the top than the bottom after raising the front legs to adjust the tilt.
> 
> I ended up using groups of the staples you use in a staple gun because I could break them off into more exact lengths to get the height right. Each staple being about 1mm I could then achieve the ~7mm of rear lift I needed to correct the keystoning.
> 
> Spent about an hour and fifteen minutes last night re-adjusting everything. Verified my screen was square at all corners and level and plumb on all sides. The distance from the wall is mostly uniform maybe at most an eighth of an inch variation between the mounting points. Started from square one and went from there. Ended up being pretty darn close to perfect but I still ended up over-zooming a smidge as I still couldn't get the top right corner perfect and after spending an hour trying I was exhausted. I'm happier with my alignment now as the overzoom isn't as drastic but boy this was tedious.
> 
> Definitely getting an easy to adjust ceiling mount next time, whenever that is.
> 
> Capped off the night watching Gravity in 3D. I am constantly impressed with the image quality of this thing. I recently hooked my PS3 back up as I'm going to use it for Region B 3D blu rays, and I ended up playing a couple games in 3D as well. It's a shame 3D is mostly out of fashion now, My first experience with 3D at home was getting this projector this year and it's my favorite way to experience movies now.


Maybe I'm missing something. I'm presuming that you're using the shelf as pictured in your Bugsy Theater thread in your signature. Wouldn't it be better to permanently level the shelf, using washers and a straight level? That way if you ever need to take the projector down your platform is level to reinstall the PJ.


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## Enchy

fredworld said:


> Maybe I'm missing something. I'm presuming that you're using the shelf as pictured in your Bugsy Theater thread in your signature. Wouldn't it be better to permanently level the shelf, using washers and a straight level? That way if you ever need to take the projector down your platform is level to reinstall the PJ.


I never even considered trying to level the shelf. My first time building one and I never looked into a way of doing so. Using washers is super smart. I'll have to do that as an upcoming weekend project.


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## fredworld

Enchy said:


> I never even considered trying to level the shelf. My first time building one and I never looked into a way of doing so. Using washers is super smart. I'll have to do that as an upcoming weekend project.


Glad to help. My apologies if the following is already obvious to you but be sure to level equally across the front back and sides. 👍 ⚖ Level the PJ with it's feet on the now level shelf.
Then you should be able to square your image to the screen via Lens Shift with zero Keystone.


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## Enchy

fredworld said:


> Glad to help. My apologies if the following is already obvious to you but be sure to level equally across the front back and sides. 👍 ⚖ Level the PJ with it's feet on the now level shelf.
> Then you should be able to square your image to the screen via Lens Shift with zero Keystone.


Sounds like a plan  and no apologies necessary I'm good at the tech side of this hobby but the construction and building side sometimes feels like a mystery


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## ameer

What do you think of this pink spot that appears only on white/very bright image?
Dust or something else??
I closely took a sharp pic of it (zoomed in + adjust the focus)


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## hms17B

Enchy said:


> Sounds like a plan  and no apologies necessary I'm good at the tech side of this hobby but the construction and building side sometimes feels like a mystery


You say you're in PNW. Don't forget earthquakes. My 5050 came with a cable and some hardware to secure it to the wall. I also have a strap around it to help hold it to the shelf. I'm in NoCal and the last quake we had shook hard enough that I thought my previous PJ might walk off the edge of the shelf - stopped before it did. I used the strap after that and now with the 5050 I also use the cable in case it somehow does go off the shelf or if the shelf fails - then the PJ should hang from the cable instead of plummeting to the floor.


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## Enchy

hms17B said:


> You say you're in PNW. Don't forget earthquakes. My 5050 came with a cable and some hardware to secure it to the wall. I also have a strap around it to help hold it to the shelf. I'm in NoCal and the last quake we had shook hard enough that I thought my previous PJ might walk off the edge of the shelf - stopped before it did. I used the strap after that and now with the 5050 I also use the cable in case it somehow does go off the shelf or if the shelf fails - then the PJ should hang from the cable instead of plummeting to the floor.


That's an excellent point. My new house is pretty close to a fault line too. I'll fish through the box and see if I still have the safety hardware. I'm not worried about the shelf going as it has 6 3" screws going directly into studs, but the projector walking off the side is definitely feasible.


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## hms17B

Enchy said:


> That's an excellent point. My new house is pretty close to a fault line too. I'll fish through the box and see if I still have the safety hardware. I'm not worried about the shelf going as it has 6 3" screws going directly into studs, but the projector walking off the side is definitely feasible.


I've got the cable really short too - attached into studs at two ends with middle thru the ring that affixes to the 5050. If it were to walk I don't think it could get all the way to the edge now..


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## Tsunamijhoe

Guys, how often do you change the bulbs in your 6050/TW9400? My current is at 1980hrs and is still very bright,i have 1 brand new in a box, but are contemplating ordering 2 more lamps due to the world freight problem so i will be sure to have some in stock. Projector is my sole display so i have used 2000hrs since march 21st,so i go through lamps pretty quick. These Epson lamps seem a LOT better quality/engineered than my old Sony 65ES lamps, which lost brightness so quick,and were also 3 times the price of the epsons. I only use original lamps, they are dirt cheap,so i don't want the hassle of knockoffs.
I have had the Epson since August 2020, and this is by far the single best projector i have ever owned,and i hope it will last me a long time.


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## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Guys, how often do you change the bulbs in your 6050/TW9400? My current is at 1980hrs and is still very bright,i have 1 brand new in a box, but are contemplating ordering 2 more lamps due to the world freight problem so i will be sure to have some in stock. Projector is my sole display so i have used 2000hrs since march 21st,so i go through lamps pretty quick. These Epson lamps seem a LOT better quality/engineered than my old Sony 65ES lamps, which lost brightness so quick,and were also 3 times the price of the epsons. I only use original lamps, they are dirt cheap,so i don't want the hassle of knockoffs.
> I have had the Epson since August 2020, and this is by far the single best projector i have ever owned,and i hope it will last me a long time.


I run on Medium Lamp and plan to consider replacing around 3500 hours, unless circumstances dictate otherwise. Having said that, my first lamp (PJ purchased June 2019) developed a flicker around 1000 hours. Epson replaced that under warranty. I then replaced that lamp at about 700 hours because the Epson lamps were finally back in stock so I bought one and have been using that new one (800 hours now) while keeping the warranty replacement 700 hours old lamp as a back up.


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## hms17B

I'm finding that an untreated room (white walls and ceiling) does not ruin the 5050's image. I use my room for music listening a lot and find blackened surfaces very uncomfortable for that so I decided to leave them off-white like the rest of the house. Using eco/mid lamp and putting the manual iris down a few notches, I get a very pleasing image lacking only a little blackness (in my perception) on the very darkest scenes.

Black perception is quite relative, for me at least. When I cycle thru the Spears & Munsil ADL patterns, only the 0% seems to be dark gray rather than black. All the higher levels actually seem more black to me even though I can tell that they progressively wash out as the ADL goes up. It's a matter of what the black is compared to I guess. On a very dark image there's nothing to compare the black to except the room which is actually darker, and so the black image looks dark gray. With even a small amount of bright in the image, the black is compared to that bright and so seems darker. Plus the eyes' own irises open up most at the lowest ADL making them the most sensitive, and close down most at the highest making them the least sensitive.

So I'd say that an untreated room certainly does not help the image, but it doesn't ruin it either, as its shortcomings are partially compensated for by perception.


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## biglen

hms17B said:


> I'm finding that an untreated room (white walls and ceiling) does not ruin the 5050's image. I use my room for music listening a lot and find blackened surfaces very uncomfortable for that so I decided to leave them off-white like the rest of the house. Using eco/mid lamp and putting the manual iris down a few notches, I get a very pleasing image lacking only a little blackness (in my perception) on the very darkest scenes.
> 
> Black perception is quite relative, for me at least. When I cycle thru the Spears & Munsil ADL patterns, only the 0% seems to be dark gray rather than black. All the higher levels actually seem more black to me even though I can tell that they progressively wash out as the ADL goes up. It's a matter of what the black is compared to I guess. On a very dark image there's nothing to compare the black to except the room which is actually darker, and so the black image looks dark gray. With even a small amount of bright in the image, the black is compared to that bright and so seems darker. Plus the eyes' own irises open up most at the lowest ADL making them the most sensitive, and close down most at the highest making them the least sensitive.
> 
> So I'd say that an untreated room certainly does not help the image, but it doesn't ruin it either, as its shortcomings are partially compensated for by perception.


What are you comparing your image to? If your room was never treated, you have nothing to compare it to. I'd bet the farm, with white walls and ceiling, you're nowhere near the amazing image the 5050 can produce. If I put my lights on 1% in my treated room, I see the image quality drop, so I can't even imagine what the white walls and ceiling are doing to the image. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> What are you comparing your image to? If your room was never treated, you have nothing to compare it to. I'd bet the farm, with white walls and ceiling, you're nowhere near the amazing image the 5050 can produce. If I put my lights on 1% in my treated room, I see the image quality drop, so I can't even imagine what the white walls and ceiling are doing to the image.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Putting your lights at 1% is not equal to having a white room with no lights on. The 1% lights will affect the image equally across the ADL range. A white room won't. Below 2% ADL the white room won't have a massive impact, but above that it will. Starscapes should still be fine. If a grey or ALR screen is used then a larger range of the ADL range will be preserved.


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## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Putting your lights at 1% is not equal to having a white room with no lights on. The 1% lights will affect the image equally across the ADL range. A white room won't. Below 2% ADL the white room won't have a massive impact, but above that it will. Starscapes should still be fine. If a grey or ALR screen is used then a larger range of the ADL range will be preserved.


No one will ever convince me that a room with white walls and ceiling, will ever look as good as the image in a fully treated room, regardless of the screen type. My walls were dark gray before I treated the area around the screen with triple black velvet, and changed my light tan carpet to black, and there was a big improvement in image quality. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> No one will ever convince me that a room with white walls and ceiling, will ever look as good as the image in a fully treated room, regardless of the screen type. My walls were dark gray before I treated the area around the screen with triple black velvet, and changed my light tan carpet to black, and there was a big improvement in image quality.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I'm not trying to convince you. But a good ALR screen in the right setup can do wonders. I have a very well treated theater and the first 5 feet are flocked. While doing screen sample comparisons I saw a 34% increase in contrast between the StudioTek 100 MicroPerf and FireHawk G5 MicroPerf screen. _34% increase in a treated room that most would consider a bat cave._ 

There have been some comments around here lately that a white room is equal to a mirror and it gives the impression that a projector is a lost cause in a white room. While I agree that the more treated the room the better, it should bot be viewed as a requirement. I advocated that someone not move from a 6050 to a JVC NX5 not too long ago because the difference in contrast won't be as big because their room was white. They also lost brightness. Guess what? They made the move and were happy nonetheless.


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## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'm not trying to convince you. But a good ALR screen in the right setup can do wonders. I have a very well treated theater and the first 5 feet are flocked. While doing screen sample comparisons I saw a 34% increase in contrast between the StudioTek 100 MicroPerf and FireHawk G5 MicroPerf screen. _34% increase in a treated room that most would consider a bat cave._
> 
> There have been some comments around here lately that a white room is equal to a mirror and it gives the impression that a projector is a lost cause in a white room. While I agree that the more treated the room the better, it should bot be viewed as a requirement. I advocated that someone not move from a 6050 to a JVC NX5 not too long ago because the difference in contrast won't be as big because their room was white. They also lost brightness. Guess what? They made the move and were happy nonetheless.


That was me saying you may as well have a mirror on the walls, and I'll stick to that statement. People try putting a projector in rooms that they shouldn't, and it's a waste of money. Just get a big screen LED or OLED. Putting a projector in a white room, is like buying a Lamborghini, and never going over 50mph. There's a reason why movie theaters aren't painted white inside. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## hms17B

biglen said:


> No one will ever convince me that a room with white walls and ceiling, will ever look as good as the image in a fully treated room, regardless of the screen type. My walls were dark gray before I treated the area around the screen with triple black velvet, and changed my light tan carpet to black, and there was a big improvement in image quality.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I think I may have been misunderstood. There is no light in my room except what comes from the projector. Any degradation of black level can come only from room reflections. With the 5050 off the room is absolute black. What I'm saying is that if one can't blacken out the room surfaces, all is not lost. I'm not trying to say that an untreated room is as good as a treated one, but that it can still be quite good, and quite satisfying. We don't all have the wherewithal to have the very best setup, but the consequences of not having the best aren't necessarily dire.

One should not refuse to get a 5050 over something like a 3800 because they think the UB improvement will be lost in anything less than a fully treated room - it won't be. The UBs still make a difference even in untreated rooms. When there's enough bright in the image to reflect off the walls, the 5050 blacks will be no better than those of lesser models, but comparative perception fills in and they look better than they measure. When there's no bright in the image, the UBs look better because they actually are darker than lesser models.


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## biglen

hms17B said:


> I think I may have been misunderstood. There is no light in my room except what comes from the projector. Any degradation of black level can come only from room reflections. With the 5050 off the room is absolute black. What I'm saying is that if one can't blacken out the room surfaces, all is not lost. I'm not trying to say that an untreated room is as good as a treated one, but that it can still be quite good, and quite satisfying. We don't all have the wherewithal to have the very best setup, but the consequences of not having the best aren't necessarily dire.
> 
> One should not refuse to get a 5050 over something like a 3800 because they think the UB improvement will be lost in anything less than a fully treated room - it won't be. The UBs still make a difference even in untreated rooms. When there's enough bright in the image to reflect off the walls, the 5050 blacks will be no better than those of lesser models, but comparative perception fills in and they look better than they measure. When there's no bright in the image, the UBs look better because they actually are darker than lesser models.


I paid $3k for my 5050, so my mission was to get my movie room treated in the best way, to get the best image out of the 5050. I would hate knowing that if my room didn't have any treatment, I wasnt getting the best image possible. That would drive me crazy. I've seen a few times where members say their image doesn't look as good as some that are posted. Come to find out, their room is painted a light color, and not fully light controlled. The person who posted the pics, had all that done. There's an entire thread called The Blacker the Theater, the Better the Image. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## hms17B

biglen said:


> That was me saying you may as well have a mirror on the walls, and I'll stick to that statement. People try putting a projector in rooms that they shouldn't, and it's a waste of money. Just get a big screen LED or OLED. Putting a projector in a white room, is like buying a Lamborghini, and never going over 50mph. There's a reason why movie theaters aren't painted white inside.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I don't mean to be contentious, but I must contend a bit here. A white room does not ruin the image for many people. It may for some but not for all. I'd love to have a room like yours but can't. While a 5050 in my room can never perform as well as one in yours, it can still perform well enough to satisfy me. And it performs better than a lesser model. You got even more value out of your 5050 than I did out of mine, but I still think mine was worth the cost. My performance isn't the best but it's the best I can get all things considered. Without going way over the price I could not get better performance.


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## hms17B

biglen said:


> I paid $3k for my 5050, so my mission was to get my movie room treated in the best way, to get the best image out of the 5050. I would hate knowing that if my room didn't have any treatment, I wasnt getting the best image possible. That would drive me crazy. I've seen a few times where members say their image doesn't look as good as some that are posted. Come to find out, their room is painted a light color, and not fully light controlled. The person who posted the pics, had all that done. There's an entire thread called The Blacker the Theater, the Better the Image.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I don't blame you, you did well. However, I'm willing to make some compromises since I have to use the room for other things as well. I got the 5050 for the UB for one thing, throw and lens shift for another. The 5050 does better, even in my room, than non-UB models because it gets darker when it counts most, in really dark scenes.

So I restate my main point. The 5050UB is worth the price even in untreated rooms. Someone with a white room does not need to go to lesser models. Unless they never watch anything with truly dark scenes, then forget the 5050 and get something like a 3800 instead. But an awful lot of movies do have dark scenes and the 5050 is worth it then.


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## biglen

hms17B said:


> I don't mean to be contentious, but I must contend a bit here. A white room does not ruin the image for many people. It may for some but not for all. I'd love to have a room like yours but can't. While a 5050 in my room can never perform as well as one in yours, it can still perform well enough to satisfy me. And it performs better than a lesser model. You got even more value out of your 5050 than I did out of mine, but I still think mine was worth the cost. My performance isn't the best but it's the best I can get all things considered. Without going way over the price I could not get better performance.


My point is you'd be better off using the $3k for an OLED or LED. Why spend $3k when you aren't getting the most out of it? It makes zero sense to me. Again, I'll go back to the Lamborghini statement I made. Why buy one, if you don't go over 50mph with it? Have you people with a white room, seen the 5050 perform in a treated room? Maybe some people have $3k to piss away for a "good" image? I'd rather have a smaller OLED or LED, that puts out a great image, then settling for a bigger picture, with a "good" image. It's just my opinion, and I'm not looking to argue. When I researched buying a projector, everything pointed to making sure you have the proper room, which meant having darker walls and being light controlled, to get the best image. If I couldn't accomplish that, I would have passed on a projector, and bought a large OLED or LED. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## hms17B

biglen said:


> My point is you'd be better off using the $3k for an OLED or LED. Why spend $3k when you aren't getting the most out of it? It makes zero sense to me. Again, I'll go back to the Lamborghini statement I made. Why buy one, if you don't go over 50mph with it? Have you people with a white room, seen the 5050 perform in a treated room? Maybe some people have $3k to piss away for a "good" image? I'd rather have a smaller OLED or LED, that puts out a great image, then settling for a bigger picture, with a "good" image.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


We see this differently. This is not an area of dogma. What's right for one isn't necessarily right for another. To you image quality is above all else, but to others image size is also very important. You would be willing to sacrifice size for quality, and others would be willing to sacrifice quality for size. To you I've wasted my money, but to me I've spent it well. Neither view is right or wrong, except to the one to whom it matters. You are happy with your setup and I am happy with mine. Nothing wrong with that.


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> My point is you'd be better off using the $3k for an OLED or LED. Why spend $3k when you aren't getting the most out of it? It makes zero sense to me. Again, I'll go back to the Lamborghini statement I made. Why buy one, if you don't go over 50mph with it? Have you people with a white room, seen the 5050 perform in a treated room? Maybe some people have $3k to piss away for a "good" image? I'd rather have a smaller OLED or LED, that puts out a great image, then settling for a bigger picture, with a "good" image. It's just my opinion, and I'm not looking to argue. When I researched buying a projector, everything pointed to making sure you have the proper room, which meant having darker walls and being light controlled, to get the best image. If I couldn't accomplish that, I would have passed on a projector, and bought a large OLED or LED.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Pretty simple. You can't buy a 120" OLED or LED TV. 

White room + white screen + projector is pretty close to a waste of money IMO. That being said in college we had a 120" white screen painted on a wall in an all white room and it was freaking awesome compared to everyone else's little 37" TVs.


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## Ricoflashback

hms17B said:


> We see this differently. This is not an area of dogma. What's right for one isn't necessarily right for another. To you image quality is above all else, but to others image size is also very important. You would be willing to sacrifice size for quality, and others would be willing to sacrifice quality for size. To you I've wasted my money, but to me I've spent it well. Neither view is right or wrong, except to the one to whom it matters. You are happy with your setup and I am happy with mine. Nothing wrong with that.


Amen. I've never been with the crowd that says a white room with white walls and white screen is a waste of money. Total bonkers, to me. I have an off white room with dark, brown paneling half-way with a low ceiling and dark beams. No sunlight or windows with light on the screen. I enjoy my 100" screen immensely with a white, 1.2 gain, SilverTicket screen. I'd bet an Epson 5050 would even give me better black levels but I guess I couldn't (or shouldn't) enjoy them IF I did not have a perfectly dark bat cave.

I bet some theater aficionados can look at some so called "light controlled" rooms and find fault with them. Maybe the test should be that you cannot see your fingers one foot away from you when you're in your theater room. Or - a thorough coat of tar covering all walls and the ceiling. Black mount, black projector - - no lights whatsoever. No AVR lights, nothing. 

Enjoy you setup and the immersion of the big screen. That's what it's all about.


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## Kieran

biglen said:


> My point is you'd be better off using the $3k for an OLED or LED. Why spend $3k when you aren't getting the most out of it? It makes zero sense to me. Again, I'll go back to the Lamborghini statement I made. Why buy one, if you don't go over 50mph with it? Have you people with a white room, seen the 5050 perform in a treated room? Maybe some people have $3k to piss away for a "good" image? I'd rather have a smaller OLED or LED, that puts out a great image, then settling for a bigger picture, with a "good" image. It's just my opinion, and I'm not looking to argue. When I researched buying a projector, everything pointed to making sure you have the proper room, which meant having darker walls and being light controlled, to get the best image. If I couldn't accomplish that, I would have passed on a projector, and bought a large OLED or LED.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Newsflash McFly: the OLED is STILL way better than your 5050 at black levels, HDR, contrast, color gamut/fidelity, and virtually every other image quality metric except for maybe size. WAY better, even with your batcave darkroom. I'm glad you're getting all you can out of your 5050 but your comments are inflammatory. There are *many *reasons to get a projector over an on-wall direct view display. Image quality isn't even on the list, not even close.


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## biglen

Kieran said:


> Newsflash McFly: the OLED is STILL way better than your 5050 at black levels, HDR, contrast, color gamut/fidelity, and virtually every other image quality metric except for maybe size. WAY better, even with your batcave darkroom. I'm glad you're getting all you can out of your 5050 but your comments are inflammatory. There are *many *reasons to get a projector over an on-wall direct view display. Image quality isn't even on the list, not even close.


Newsflash: Where did I say my 5050 was better than an OLED??? If you don't have image quality on your list of reasons for getting a projector, then why spend $3k on the 5050, and not just get a $500 projector? That might be the most ridiculous thing I've read in awhile. Sorry if I hurt your feelings with my "inflammatory" comments. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Kieran

biglen said:


> Newsflash: Where did I say my 5050 was better than an OLED??? Sorry if I hurt your feelings with my "inflammatory" comments.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


You didn't. But it's the next logical step. If you say an OLED is a better purchase that means only black levels matter to you, as you are obviously ignoring all the other benefits the 5050 has to offer. If image quality is all that matters to you, then you wasted your own $3k as that would have been better spent on an OLED. If you agree that there are other benefits to having the 5050 than just black levels (which we all agree are only realizable in a well controlled room) then your arguments are moot and comments nothing but inflammatory. If on the other hand you say the only reason to get the 5050 is for image quality, then you should spend your money on an OLED.


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## Ricoflashback

Kieran said:


> Newsflash McFly: the OLED is STILL way better than your 5050 at black levels, HDR, contrast, color gamut/fidelity, and virtually every other image quality metric except for maybe size. WAY better, even with your batcave darkroom. I'm glad you're getting all you can out of your 5050 but your comments are inflammatory. There are *many *reasons to get a projector over an on-wall direct view display. Image quality isn't even on the list, not even close.


When you can get me a reasonably priced 100" or larger OLED - - I'll never consider a projector. But that won't happen in my lifetime. Or, with current OLED technology. I find the same "straw man" argument about ONLY enjoying a projector in a bat cave environment. Or - -it's not worth the money and is a waste of time. Sure, a bat cave is the most optimal and the closest you'll get to better blacks - - but never perfect or close to perfect as an OLED set. 

I love my 48" OLED set in our bedroom. You can't beat it for picture quality. I also enjoy my 100" projection screen in a non bat cave environment. The immersion quality, size, breadth and depth make it fun for movies but for sports too - - like hockey, where it's hard to follow the puck with the quick action. It's all about personal taste and enjoyment. It's never an either or decision for me.


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## biglen

Kieran said:


> You didn't. But it's the next logical step. If you say an OLED is a better purchase that means only black levels matter to you, as you are obviously ignoring all the other benefits the 5050 has to offer. If image quality is all that matters to you, then you wasted your own $3k as that would have been better spent on an OLED. If you agree that there are other benefits to having the 5050 than just black levels (which we all agree are only realizable in a well controlled room) then your arguments are moot and comments nothing but inflammatory. If on the other hand you say the only reason to get the 5050 is for image quality, then you should spend your money on an OLED.


If you read my comment, I only mentioned an OLED or LED for people with white walls and ceilings. They'd get more bang for their buck. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> If you read my comment, I only mentioned an OLED or LED for people with white walls and ceilings. They'd get more bang for their buck.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


How are you able to say that? You have multiple people here saying they love their 5050 in a light colored room. There’s plentiful options for ALR screens which do a great job at preserving contrast. Even without the ALR screen, the 5050 will be multitudes better than a cheap DLP for scenes below 2-3% ADL. So it’s not like the 5050 doesn’t offer more. 

You’re taking your situation and experiences and extrapolating it to others even when the very situations you say won’t work others are literally telling you they do. It’s a bit frustrating my dude


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## Kieran

biglen said:


> If you read my comment, I only mentioned an OLED or LED for people with white walls and ceilings. They'd get more bang for their buck.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I read your comment precisely. My analysis still applies. I have medium walls, and white ceiling. I love my system, it was money well spent. An OLED would not be more bang for my buck. You are wrong.


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## Kieran

White ceiling images:








Is this how expensive projectors are meant to look...


No! Not all projectors have horrible black and/or contrast performance. Your "brightness" setting looks overdriven. Actually, there’s a series of older DLP projectors that have BETTER black levels than today’s DLP. There’s a whole thread dedicated to that on this forum. But, anyway, the OP’s...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> How are you able to say that? You have multiple people here saying they love their 5050 in a light colored room. There’s plentiful options for ALR screens which do a great job at preserving contrast. Even without the ALR screen, the 5050 will be multitudes better than a cheap DLP for scenes below 2-3% ADL.
> 
> You’re taking your situation and experiences and extrapolating it to others even when the very situations you say won’t work others are literally telling you they do. It’s a bit frustrating my dude


I'm coming from experience, my dude. When I first had my movie room, I had a Sony 65" 4k TV, and I had the room painted with light colors. I was going to get a 100" TV to upgrade the Sony, and my son recommended a projector, because he worked at Best Buy, and told me how good projectors are now. I added the 5050 to the movie room, with the light colored walls, and wasn't very happy. After discovering the Blacker the Theater, the Better the Image thread, it took my 5050 to a whole new level. It got even better, after Kevin Miller calibrated it. I'd hate to see someone spend $3k on a 5050, use it in a light painted room, and expect it to perform to its fullest ability. I've already seen a couple members mention they weren't that impressed with the 5050. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> I'm coming from experience, my dude. When I first had my movie room, I had a Sony 65" 4k TV, and I had the room painted with light colors. I was going to get a 100" TV to upgrade the Sony, and my son recommended a projector, because he worked at Best Buy, and told me how good projectors are now. I added the 5050 to the movie room, with the light colored walls, and wasn't very happy. After discovering the Blacker the Theater, the Better the Image thread, it took my 5050 to a whole new level. It got even better, after Kevin Miller calibrated it. I'd hate to see someone spend $3k on a 5050, use it in a light painted room, and expect it to perform to its fullest ability. I've already seen a couple members mention they weren't that impressed with the 5050.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


What kinda of screen did you have when the room was light colored?


----------



## biglen

Kieran said:


> White ceiling images:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this how expensive projectors are meant to look...
> 
> 
> No! Not all projectors have horrible black and/or contrast performance. Your "brightness" setting looks overdriven. Actually, there’s a series of older DLP projectors that have BETTER black levels than today’s DLP. There’s a whole thread dedicated to that on this forum. But, anyway, the OP’s...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Am I supposed to be impressed by those pictures? They look "okay" at best. Maybe it's because you took them with your phone camera?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> Am I supposed to be impressed by those pictures? They look "okay" at best. Maybe it's because you took them with your phone camera?


The 5050 pj is not calibrated yet. They only show that the white ceiling does not ruin black levels. The "black bars" aren't visible except in the low-light enhanced image.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> What kinda of screen did you have when the room was light colored?


The painted Black Flame Interstellar screen, which apparently acts similarly to an ALR screen, if there is ambient light. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## DaGamePimp

Discussing seeing the potential of a projector versus enjoying a projector are two very different categories.

I have two very different rooms with projectors in them, one room has light walls with a $1K unit but we still enjoy it.

Let's just say to each their own.  

- Jason


----------



## DavidK442

With 12,000+ posts discussing an evolutionary projector what’s another page of heated debate?
Sad entertainment I guess.


----------



## rekbones

The main issue as I see it is so many people with white rooms also want to watch WITH THE LIGHTS ON. This is where front projection is virtually impossible and your just as well off getting a cheap low contrast projector. There is nothing drastically wrong with a high contrast projector in a white room as long as there is no external ambient light. As soon as you introduce external ambient light the black floor of the room surpasses the black floor of the projector and any contrast advantage is lost. In a bat cave some controlled direct lighting can be used without raising the black floor of the screen area so a big advantage for any projector. The whole deal is many people don't want to watch in total darkness and a bat cave can accommodate this where a white room can't but to get this point across to people planning a HT is a concept they just don't understand.


----------



## Kieran

rekbones said:


> The main issue as I see it is so many people with white rooms also want to watch WITH THE LIGHTS ON. This is where front projection is virtually impossible and your just as well off getting a cheap low contrast projector. There is nothing drastically wrong with a high contrast projector in a white room as long as there is no external ambient light. As soon as you introduce external ambient light the black floor of the room surpasses the black floor of the projector and any contrast advantage is lost. In a bat cave some controlled direct lighting can be used without raising the black floor of the screen area so a big advantage for any projector. The whole deal is many people don't want to watch in total darkness and a bat cave can accommodate this where a white room can't but to get this point across to people planning a HT is a concept they just don't understand.


IMO the main thing you @rekbones, say, that was not said by Biglen, is that a less expensive projector might be a better solution for some people who do not have great light control.

Saying that an OLED is the next best choice ignores all the other benefits of and reasons for choosing, a projector.

Honestly if amazing black levels, HDR, contrast, etc., are primary for you, then a projector is the wrong solution, no matter how black your room is. OLED will always win that fight.

A pj becomes the primary choice for every other reason: image size, installation flexibility, movie theater feels, retractable screen, etc., you name it. 

Contrast and black levels are not even on the list of why one might choose a pj over a direct-view panel. In fact, they are TOP of the list of why one would NOT choose a projector. No one who wants/needs a screen smaller than 75" is choosing a fpj.

So declaring that anyone who cannot perfectly control light in their movie room, with black walls and ceiling, should just not have a projector at all and go with OLED, is completely illogical.


----------



## fredworld

DavidK442 said:


> With 12,000+ posts discussing an evolutionary projector what’s another page of heated debate?
> Sad entertainment I guess.
> 
> View attachment 3187013


YUP! I wish that they would just agree to disagree and get back back on topic.


----------



## PixelPusher15

I agree to agree to disagree.


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> YUP! I wish that they would just agree to disagree and get back back on topic.


Agreed. This is not a matter of right vs wrong. It's not about best vs worst. It's about what works to serve our needs. What works for one may not even be tolerable for another. But that's OK. We each pursue what's most important to us. Since I have only one room to use for both theater and 2-channel music I have accommodated both to my satisfaction. That has required tradeoffs. I can't get the very largest screen that'd fit because the front L/R speakers need to be spaced for music. I don't want to darken the room because that's very uncomfortable to me for music listening. The screen probably isn't the best backdrop for 2-channel stereo. I got a 5050 after a lot of research mainly because of its placement flexibility and better blacks. Since poor blacks bother me most in really dark scenes where the room matters little, I think a 5050 was a good choice. Of course I don't get the best performance anywhere, but I get enough in each area to satisfy me. I don't see any way I can really get better overall considering the situation.

And to reiterated the original point. Don't necessarily write off a 5050UB if you have a light-surfaced room. If poorer black level bothers you in those dark scenes, a 5050 does better at this price range and can be worth its extra cost. It may not be to some, but it can be.

Actually I do agree with everybody on this matter. I agree that what one thinks is right for them is right for them even if it's not right for me.


----------



## Enchy

Also having owned an OLED, the black levels were indistinguishable from a good LED-LCD with FALD when the room is lit. So an OLED isn't even the best choice if someone is going to be watching a lot of content with lights on or during the day.


----------



## Pretorian

Kieran said:


> ......A pj becomes the primary choice for every other reason: image size, installation flexibility, movie theater feels, retractable screen, etc., you name it. .....


And adding to that, *to watch a projected image*. That could go under _"movie theater feels"_... but that is really a big thing for me.


----------



## Kieran

Pretorian said:


> And adding to that, *to watch a projected image*. That could go under _"movie theater feels"_... but that is really a big thing for me.


Yes, that was my intent with "movie theater feels"  LOL. There's the literal desire (need for some) to minimize eye strain, which FPJ can often do, then there's the more subjective "feeling" that comes from a darkened room with a projector.


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## fredworld

Aaaagghghhhhggghhh!!!!!?🤯😬😫


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> Aaaagghghhhhggghhh!!!!!?🤯😬😫


At any rate... 🖖


----------



## DaGamePimp

Well , I tried.

- Jason


----------



## ToddB12

Question between the 5050 UB and the 5050 UBE are there any noticeable picture difference between the two? I have a Marantz 15s1 projector and I am thinking of upgrading to the 5050 but not sure I can replace my HDMI cable threw the wall. So if using the wireless connection 5050 will I lose anything. Thank you.


----------



## biglen

ToddB12 said:


> Question between the 5050 UB and the 5050 UBE are there any noticeable picture difference between the two? I have a Marantz 15s1 projector and I am thinking of upgrading to the 5050 but not sure I can replace my HDMI cable threw the wall. So if using the wireless connection 5050 will I lose anything. Thank you.


Can you tape the new HDMI cable to the old one, and pull the new one through? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ToddB12

biglen said:


> Can you tape the new HDMI cable to the old one, and pull the new one through?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Tried to pull from each side but will not move a inch. So rip apart wall or go wireless. Doubt my 15 year old cable will work.


----------



## biglen

ToddB12 said:


> Tried to pull from each side but will not move a inch. So rip apart wall or go wireless. Doubt my 15 year old cable will work.


Who put the cable in the wall?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## ToddB12

biglen said:


> Who put the cable in the wall?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


The crew that did our remodel. Called and they said it was installed threw holes in the studs. So is the 5050 UBE not as good for quality pictures.


----------



## biglen

ToddB12 said:


> The crew that did our remodel. Called and they said it was installed threw holes in the studs. So is the 5050 UBE not as good for quality pictures.


I don't have a UBE, so I can't comment on that.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## rekbones

ToddB12 said:


> The crew that did our remodel. Called and they said it was installed threw holes in the studs. So is the 5050 UBE not as good for quality pictures.


The 5050ube is the identical projector but the wireless will not support 18Gb HDMI. For movies @24hz should be fine. 60hz 4K/HDR will have a problem


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## ToddB12

rekbones said:


> The 5050ube is the identical projector but the wireless will not support 18Gb HDMI. For movies @24hz should be fine. 60hz 4K/HDR will have a problem


That’s what I wanted to know. Guess I will have figure out a new cable if I want full potential. I also have a older demon 4803ci so a receiver I may need also. Thank you.


----------



## eieio

ToddB12 said:


> That’s what I wanted to know. Guess I will have figure out a new cable if I want full potential. I also have a older demon 4803ci so a receiver I may need also. Thank you.


You may use an HDMI extender. 

Sent from my SM-G998U1 using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

ToddB12 said:


> That’s what I wanted to know. Guess I will have figure out a new cable if I want full potential. I also have a older demon 4803ci so a receiver I may need also. Thank you.


Any chance you can pull a new HDMI while leaving the old one in place?


----------



## biglen

ToddB12 said:


> That’s what I wanted to know. Guess I will have figure out a new cable if I want full potential. I also have a older demon 4803ci so a receiver I may need also. Thank you.


That Denon isn't 4k, so you need to upgrade that, unless you're just using it for audio. If you just use it for audio, I'd guess you'd use the optical connection, and you wont get all the newest audio tracks. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> That Denon isn't 4k, so you need to upgrade that, unless you're just using it for audio. If you just use it for audio, I'd guess you'd use the optical connection, and you wont get all the newest audio tracks.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


They might/could be using something like a HDFury hdmi splitter/manager. Can send full audio to receiver, splitting off full 4k60 HDR video to display. I considered this as a way to keep my older receiver in the loop (ultimately replaced it.)

The HDFury products also serve as an HDMI booster/extender, which might solve your problems, too. Worth a try?





Shop | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI







www.hdfury.com





The Maestro is a HD-Base-T system, that allows 4k60/HDR via cat5e (or better) ethernet, which might be easier to pull/run for you than an HDMI cable.

EDIT: added bonus: with some configuration and tweaking, the HDFury products also allow you to send Dolby Vision HDR to your Epson projector. Some notice a big improvement over HDR10 with this. YMMV


----------



## fredworld

Alternatively, surface mounting in a painted channel worked well for me in my previous house.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Alternatively, surface mounting in a painted channel worked well for me in my previous house.


Also, removing baseboards, cutting a channel in the drywall where the baseboard covers, could also be an option. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## ipca204

ToddB12 said:


> The crew that did our remodel. Called and they said it was installed threw holes in the studs. So is the 5050 UBE not as good for quality pictures.


If they did not staple the cable down, you could get a fiber optic HDMI cable and try t pull it through after cutting the head off of the old cable. My fiber optic hdmi cable came with a mini hdmi head with a full size hdmi adpater..


----------



## Northern_Lights

Has anyone figured out a way to disable the subtle (but not really all that subtle) motion-smoothing that occurs whenever the 5050 is getting a 24hz signal? The seemingly undefeatable soap opera effect? No, I am NOT talking about the actual frame interpolation feature that's only available with a 1080p signal. I'm talking about the automatic motion smoothing applied to 4k, 24fps content in the 5050.

The only way I've figured to eliminate this motion smoothing is to send 24hz content inside of a 60hz "package." There are settings to toggle this off and on in my Panny 420, Series X, and Fire stick 4k. However, when sending 24hz content in a 60hz package like this, I get 4k/HDR/10-bit/4:2:0. When sending in a 'native' 24hz package, I get 4k/HDR/10-bit/4:4:4. 

Should 10-bit 4:2:0 be enough for playing 4k blu rays? Or am I missing something by spending the bandwidth on a 60hz package instead of spending it on 4:4:4?


----------



## ToddB12

Kieran said:


> They might/could be using something like a HDFury hdmi splitter/manager. Can send full audio to receiver, splitting off full 4k60 HDR video to display. I considered this as a way to keep my older receiver in the loop (ultimately replaced it.)
> 
> The HDFury products also serve as an HDMI booster/extender, which might solve your problems, too. Worth a try?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shop | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hdfury.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Maestro is a HD-Base-T system, that allows 4k60/HDR via cat5e (or better) ethernet, which might be easier to pull/run for you than an HDMI cable.
> 
> EDIT: added bonus: with some configuration and tweaking, the HDFury products also allow you to send Dolby Vision HDR to your Epson projector. Some notice a big improvement over HDR10 with this. YMMV


I would like to keep using my Denon 4803ci a few more years if possible. Could you be more specific on what HDFury product I should use. I would like to use multiple sources and extract audio to my Denon then send the signal to my new epson projector. I also decided to run a new fiber optic cable. I just have to do a small drywall patch but not to bad. Thank you. I also have a PS5 for gaming.


----------



## rekbones

This is the least expensive HDfury splitter I have seen and from the specs it should work.









Amazon.com: HDFury-SplitterPro


Amazon.com: HDFury-SplitterPro



www.amazon.com





You will also need a multi port HDMI switch to connect multiple sources.

https://www.amazon.com/Koopman-Swit...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I am not promoting any of these as I have no personally experience with them.

Personally I would replace the AVR instead of adding more complex Band-Aids as it's just more to go wrong.


----------



## biglen

rekbones said:


> This is the least expensive HDfury splitter I have seen and from the specs it should work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: HDFury-SplitterPro
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: HDFury-SplitterPro
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will also need a multi port HDMI switch to connect multiple sources.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Koopman-Swit...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
> 
> I am not promoting any of these as I have no personally experience with them.
> 
> Personally I would replace the AVR instead of adding more complex Band-Aids as it's just more to go wrong.


I agree 100%. I'd look in the classifieds, for a used 4k receiver. There's actually an x2700h for sale in there. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## eieio

re: Epson 6050

This evening, while watching a movie, the image started to flicker off and on - not totally off, but flickering. the flicker is reminiscent of a flickering light bulb, almost like it is about to go bad.

I only got this projector 2 weeks ago! i put no more than 4 hours each evening on the projector, so i'm guessing that the bulb can't have more than 60 hours of use!!

may i ask if anyone else has this experience?

i tried to exit the movie (on a Roku Ultra, watching Amazon Prime) and go to Verizon's Fios TV and watched the news and it was the same - flickering for a while, then stopping, then without warning, flickering again.

any advice or thoughts would be helpful. thank you.


----------



## fredworld

eieio said:


> re: Epson 6050
> 
> This evening, while watching a movie, the image started to flicker off and on. the flicker is reminiscent of a flickering light bulb, almost like it is about to go bad.
> 
> I only got this projector 2 weeks ago! i put no more than 4 hours each evening on the projector, so i'm guessing that the bulbs can't have more than 60 hours of use!!
> 
> may i ask if anyone else has this experience?
> 
> i tried to exit the movie (on a Roku Ultra, Amazon Prime) and go to Verizon's Fios TV and watched the news and it was the same - flickering for a while, then stopping, then without warning, flickering again.
> 
> any advise or thoughts would be helpful. thank you.


Sounds like a defective lamp. I'm presuming that you bought new and not pre-owned. Contact Epson. They'll probably walk you through some troubleshooting steps like trying the spare lamp that comes with the 6050 before committing to replacement.


----------



## biglen

eieio said:


> re: Epson 6050
> 
> This evening, while watching a movie, the image started to flicker off and on. the flicker is reminiscent of a flickering light bulb, almost like it is about to go bad.
> 
> I only got this projector 2 weeks ago! i put no more than 4 hours each evening on the projector, so i'm guessing that the bulbs can't have more than 60 hours of use!!
> 
> may i ask if anyone else has this experience?
> 
> i tried to exit the movie (on a Roku Ultra, Amazon Prime) and go to Verizon's Fios TV and watched the news and it was the same - flickering for a while, then stopping, then without warning, flickering again.
> 
> any advise or thoughts would be helpful. thank you.


Does it happen when you have it on High lamp? If not, keep it on High for 100 hours, then see if it flickers on Medium or Eco. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## eieio

biglen said:


> Does it happen when you have it on High lamp?* If not, keep it on High for 100 hours*, then see if it flickers on Medium or Eco.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


@biglen: thanks for your suggestion. still, i'm thinking that it shouldn't be happening to a brand new, 2-week old projector, right? isn't the 6050 said to be of better quality control? 

of course, if it turns out to be a bulb issue, then it's the quality control of the bulb that's the issue, and not the projector itself. ugh. not fun.


----------



## eieio

fredworld said:


> Sounds like a defective lamp. I'm presuming that you bought new and not pre-owned. Contact Epson. They'll probably walk you through some troubleshooting steps like trying the spare lamp that comes with the 6050 before committing to replacement.


@fredworld: thanks for your comment. what type(s) of troubleshooting steps do you think they will ask me to do please?

note kindly please that i had my projector on at around 8pm watching the news and some programs on my DVR, and only around 10pm did i settle down to watch a movie. it was well after the start of the movie that this flickering started to happen. so, that means that i might not be able to replicate it immediately after turning the projector on if the Epson person wanted me to replicate what i saw again. what should i do then?

thank you.


----------



## DaGamePimp

eieio said:


> @biglen: thanks for your suggestion. still, i'm thinking that it shouldn't be happening to a brand new, 2-week old projector, right? isn't the 6050 said to be of better quality control?
> 
> of course, if it turns out to be a bulb issue, then it's the quality control of the bulb that's the issue, and not the projector itself. ugh. not fun.


If you initially used the unit for a short period of time and in Eco lamp then you likely created a poor arc, this can happen with any lamp based projector.

It is best to use the projector for more than an hour or two initially in High lamp (and keep it there for the first ~100 hours).

- Jason


----------



## eieio

DaGamePimp said:


> If you initially used the unit for a short period of time and in Eco lamp then you likely created a poor arc, this can happen with any lamp based projector.
> 
> It is best to use the projector for more than an hour or two initially in High lamp (and keep it there for the first ~100 hours).
> 
> - Jason


@DaGamePimp: Hi Jason, thank you so much for your comment, advice.

may i please ask you to expand on that explanation a little bit more to help educate me?

thank you in advance.

why is it that using the projector for 100 hours INITIALLY is important? what does "poor arc" mean please?

i am very interested in learning more. thank you.

please feel free to private message me as well. thx.


----------



## fredworld

eieio said:


> @fredworld: thanks for your comment. what type(s) of troubleshooting steps do you think they will ask me to do please?
> 
> note kindly please that i had my projector on at around 8pm watching the news and some programs on my DVR, and only around 10pm did i settle down to watch a movie. it was well after the start of the movie that this flickering started to happen. so, that means that i might not be able to replicate it immediately after turning the projector on if the Epson person wanted me to replicate what i saw again. what should i do then?
> 
> thank you.


This is what Epson had me do with my flicker issue before replacing my lamp:

_"Turn off the projector.Disconnect the projector from its source.
Turn the projector on and try projecting without any source connected.
To effectively help resolve your issue, we need to verify the following information:_

_Does the same issue occur when projecting images without any source connected?_
_Does the same issue occur when projecting images from a different source?_
_Does the same issue occur when using a different interface cable?"_
They also wanted to know if the flickering is _"like a brightness flickers or more of it black outs and come back in?"_ AND if I _"experience this flicker on all sources or only specific if you are not sure try different source because if it is the auto iris causing this, this settings in not global so you have to check each sources. "_

If it's decided it's the lamp they will want the old lamp returned which they had me do using the packaging of the replacement lamp.

In summary, doing number 1, 2 and 3 as they suggested worked, temporarily. Just turning off the projector, disconnecting the HDMI cable, reconnecting it and turning the projector back on fixed the issue. BUT, the next night the "flicker" returned after about 45 minutes into a UHD disc. So I turned off the projector, disconnected and then reconnected the HDMI cable and it worked fine the rest of the night. It was a brightness flicker. No black out. It was very slight. Much more noticeable on broad bright scenes than in scenes with varying brightness levels.

That's my history from a number of email exchanges with Epson from Feb 29 to MAr 27, 2020..

I wouldn't hesitate to put Epson on notice. If it's not the lamp and turns out to be the projector you could end up with a refurbished projector for a replacement instead of a new one. My issue completely resolved with the replacement lamp but I'm running on MEDIUM. I no longer use ECO mode. I use HIGH for 3D.

Here are *search results for the issue of FLICKER* in this thread, which you might find helpful and educational.


----------



## eieio

fredworld said:


> This is what Epson had me do with my flicker issue before replacing my lamp:
> 
> _"Turn off the projector.Disconnect the projector from its source.
> Turn the projector on and try projecting without any source connected.
> To effectively help resolve your issue, we need to verify the following information:_
> 
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images without any source connected?_
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images from a different source?_
> _Does the same issue occur when using a different interface cable?"_
> They also wanted to know if the flickering is _"like a brightness flickers or more of it black outs and come back in?"_ AND if I _"experience this flicker on all sources or only specific if you are not sure try different source because if it is the auto iris causing this, this settings in not global so you have to check each sources. "_
> 
> If it's decided it's the lamp they will want the old lamp returned which they had me do using the packaging of the replacement lamp.
> 
> That's my history from a number of email exchanges with Epson.
> 
> I wouldn't hesitate to put Epson on notice. If it's not the lamp and turns out to be the projector you could end up with a refurbished projector for a replacement instead of a new one. My issue completely resolved with the replacement lamp but I'm running on MEDIUM. I no longer use ECO mode. I use HIGH for 3D.
> 
> Here are *search results for the issue of FLICKER* in this thread, which you might find helpful and educational.


@fredworld: thank you so much. very helpful.

may i ask: now that you are experienced in this, do you INITIALLY, with a new bulb, first use it on HIGH for, say, 100 hours? or do you immediately use it on MEDIUM? some people have said that to produce a "good arc", one needs to run it initially at HIGH for around 100 hours.

thank you.


----------



## fredworld

eieio said:


> @fredworld: thank you so much. very helpful.
> 
> may i ask: now that you are experienced in this, do you INITIALLY, with a new bulb, first use it on HIGH for, say, 100 hours? or do you immediately use it on MEDIUM? some people have said that to produce a "good arc", one needs to run it initially at HIGH for around 100 hours.
> 
> thank you.


I use MEDIUM unless it's 3D, then I use HIGH. Not counting the original defective lamp and the ones I had with out of spec housings from non-Epson "compatible" lamps I've had two lamps in use. The replacement lamp Epson sent me I replaced at 1098 hours that I now keep as a spare. The one that replaced it has been in use for about 800 hours with no issues on MEDIUM and occasionally on HIGH for 3D.


----------



## fredworld

@eieio, FYI, you replied while I was editing my earlier post. I was back and forth with Epson on the troubleshooting steps for a month before they sent a replacement lamp.


----------



## DaGamePimp

eieio said:


> @DaGamePimp: Hi Jason, thank you so much for your comment, advice.
> 
> may i please ask you to expand on that explanation a little bit more to help educate me?
> 
> thank you in advance.
> 
> why is it that using the projector for 100 hours INITIALLY is important? what does "poor arc" mean please?
> 
> i am very interested in learning more. thank you.
> 
> please feel free to private message me as well. thx.


A basic explanation...

I'm sure you have seen a clear lamp/bulb form an arc of light inside, the arc needs to form properly for stability otherwise you can get flicker (similar to a standard house light bulb that will start to flicker before it fails, other than usually those are due to filament failure). The arc will generally perform best (most stable) with the power that it was designed to handle, eco lamp modes decrease the power, which in turn, can make the arc less stable (especially if it has not yet formed properly, which is why we suggest the first ~100 hours on high).

Please also understand that following the suggestion does not mean that you cannot get lamp flicker. 

Hope that helps a little, best of luck.

- Jason


----------



## jaredmwright

DaGamePimp said:


> A basic explanation...
> 
> I'm sure you have seen a clear lamp/bulb form an arc of light inside, the arc needs to form properly for stability otherwise you can get flicker (similar to a standard house light bulb that will start to flicker before it fails, other than usually those are due to filament failure). The arc will generally perform best (most stable) with the power that it was designed to handle, eco lamp modes decrease the power, which in turn, can make the arc less stable (especially if it has not yet formed properly, which is why we suggest the first ~100 hours on high).
> 
> Please also understand that following the suggestion does not mean that you cannot get lamp flicker.
> 
> Hope that helps a little, best of luck.
> 
> - Jason


I have had this happen even on an older bulb with over 600hrs, switching from Eco to Medium solved it, so I left it on medium, not much difference between the two in my room. Good luck figuring it out. I think a 2nd bulb as a backup is a good idea also no matter what with these.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

jaredmwright said:


> I have had this happen even on an older bulb with over 600hrs, switching from Eco to Medium solved it, so I left it on medium, not much difference between the two in my room. Good luck figuring it out. I think a 2nd bulb as a backup is a good idea also no matter what with these.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Agreed. I ran my original lamp on ECO hoping to get the maximum hours out of it, but the flicker developed around 800-1k hours. Having a spare lamp is a bonus like the 6050 does.


----------



## DaGamePimp

Sure the 'flicker' can happen at any time, it's just much more likely to happen in eco.

- Jason


----------



## Hopinater

This information regarding running the lamp on Eco mode and that it may cause flickering is very useful, thanks guys. I've been doing what @fredworld had done... running it on Eco to get the most out of the bulb. I have less than 200 hours on my projector and no flickering as if yet but I'm going to bump up to medium, hopefully it will keep it from happening.


----------



## Alaric

Enchy said:


> On this topic of out of focus areas of the screen, I have an odd issue with mine where the top right corner is lower than the left. I've spent _hours_ trying to correct this, but no matter what I do I cannot get a perfect rectangle out of mine. I chalked it up to it being on a shelf and not being able to align it perfectly, or possibly I thought it could be due to lens shift, as I shift mine about 14" to the left. I zoomed in a little bit further so the edges overlap my screen and called it a day, but could this possible be a panel alignment issue?


IF your screen isn't square, well to the room - Mine isn't because of install issues, give this a go








Epson TW9400 - Physical Setup


The other night I swapped my old and not particularly good and stable Duronic mount for a peerless PRG-UNV which meant i had MUCH better control of physical adjustments and as such managed to get a nigh on perfect alignment of the projector to the screen. My screen is slightly odd being suspended




sites.google.com





It avoids having to make measurements to the room, and to be fair my room is hardly square, but aligns the projector with the screen, using how the projected image interacts with the screen. I used to have some keystone issues (BAD) prior to doing this. I have zero keystone, all four corners correct and great focus too

I'd look at Install issues before trying to correct anything with panel alignment or the other features or you are trying to correct symptoms.


----------



## Kieran

Alaric said:


> IF your screen isn't square, well to the room - Mine isn't because of install issues, give this a go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson TW9400 - Physical Setup
> 
> 
> The other night I swapped my old and not particularly good and stable Duronic mount for a peerless PRG-UNV which meant i had MUCH better control of physical adjustments and as such managed to get a nigh on perfect alignment of the projector to the screen. My screen is slightly odd being suspended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sites.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It avoids having to make measurements to the room, and to be fair my room is hardly square, but aligns the projector with the screen, using how the projected image interacts with the screen. I used to have some keystone issues (BAD) prior to doing this. I have zero keystone, all four corners correct and great focus too
> 
> I'd look at Install issues before trying to correct anything with panel alignment or the other features or you are trying to correct symptoms.


I like the suggestion of aligning the pj while the lens shift is zeroed out. I have not tried that. My alignment is pretty good, but I suspect there may be some minor improvements to be had.


----------



## Enchy

Alaric said:


> IF your screen isn't square, well to the room - Mine isn't because of install issues, give this a go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson TW9400 - Physical Setup
> 
> 
> The other night I swapped my old and not particularly good and stable Duronic mount for a peerless PRG-UNV which meant i had MUCH better control of physical adjustments and as such managed to get a nigh on perfect alignment of the projector to the screen. My screen is slightly odd being suspended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sites.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It avoids having to make measurements to the room, and to be fair my room is hardly square, but aligns the projector with the screen, using how the projected image interacts with the screen. I used to have some keystone issues (BAD) prior to doing this. I have zero keystone, all four corners correct and great focus too
> 
> I'd look at Install issues before trying to correct anything with panel alignment or the other features or you are trying to correct symptoms.


Very good tips. I'm going to level my shelf next weekend and if that doesn't get me perfectly square I'll look into this. My screen is more or less evenly placed against the wall, maybe an eighth of an inch difference between the corners, so I'm hoping leveling the shelf resolves my issues


----------



## ashish shrestha

I am in the market for a projector with $3000 budget. I know 5050UB has been king at this price range for the last 2 years. My question is - is it still worth to buy this projector at this price? Or should I wait a few to see if there are any new ones coming in this price range ?


----------



## jaredmwright

ashish shrestha said:


> I am in the market for a projector with $3000 budget. I know 5050UB has been king at this price range for the last 2 years. My question is - is it still worth to buy this projector at this price? Or should I wait a few to see if there are any new ones coming in this price range ?


My opinion is to go for it. There is always something better around the corner and with prices they are only going up. You can always resell it in the future since they are in such high demand if you want to upgrade. It really is an impressive projector for the money and when installed in a room with light treatment and calibration done properly is a movie theater experience with little compromises.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

ashish shrestha said:


> I am in the market for a projector with $3000 budget. I know 5050UB has been king at this price range for the last 2 years. My question is - is it still worth to buy this projector at this price? Or should I wait a few to see if there are any new ones coming in this price range ?


Epson is coming out with an LS11000/LS12000 right now in Europe and it should be out in the US/CAN early next year. It looks to be essentially a 5050 with a laser and 4x pixel shifting and better tone mapping. Caveat, it's going to be more expensive by at least a grand if not more. Nothing else has been announced that will really compete with the 5050 in a dedicated theater at its price point. I do expect something to pique interests next year but who knows when it will come and for what price. The supply chain is wrecked and its affecting prices. The 5050 staying at its price point is becoming more and more of a value IMO.


----------



## DavidK442

Nothing on the horizon in the $2500 to $4000 range. Apparently not even an updated direct replacement model for the 5050.
There was a hope that Epson would launch a 5060UB with auto tone mapping. That dream died when Epson’s new release this fall was a couple higher priced laser projectors. I don’t see them improving the bulb based 5050 to under cut sales of their new lasers.
(Ditto to Pixelpusher who apparently has a faster finger than me.😁)


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Epson is coming out with an LS11000/LS12000 right now in Europe and it should be out in the US/CAN early next year. It looks to be essentially a 5050 with a laser and 4x pixel shifting and better tone mapping. Caveat, it's going to be more expensive by at least a grand if not more. Nothing else has been announced that will really compete with the 5050 in a dedicated theater at its price point. I do expect something to pique interests next year but who knows when it will come and for what price. The supply chain is wrecked and its affecting prices. The 5050 staying at its price point is becoming more and more of a value IMO.


Here's a preview:








Epson EH-LS12000B 4K projector brings big screen HDMI 2.1 gaming


Two lasers with new 4K chips and [email protected] powers




www.whathifi.com




Prices are quite high: £4100 and £4400 UK, which translates to almost (not quite) 2x the cost of the 5050UB's & 6050UB's USA street prices, respectively.
Considering no mention of dynamic tone mapping (other than HDR10+ compatibility) and not native 4k resolution, and not any brighter... I don't see this as something to hold out for, if your price point is $3k or below. If you really must have 120hz / VRR gaming, then maybe this is your option within Epson's lineup.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Here's a preview:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson EH-LS12000B 4K projector brings big screen HDMI 2.1 gaming
> 
> 
> Two lasers with new 4K chips and [email protected] powers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.whathifi.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prices are quite high: £4100 and £4400 UK, which translates to almost (not quite) 2x the cost of the 5050UB's & 6050UB's USA street prices, respectively.
> Considering no mention of dynamic tone mapping (other than HDR10+ compatibility) and not native 4k resolution, and not any brighter... I don't see this as something to hold out for, if your price point is $3k or below. If you really must have 120hz / VRR gaming, then maybe this is your option within Epson's lineup.


Those prices include VAT. Without VAT the pricing is around $4500-5000 USD. There have been questions about what Epson's Dynamic Gamma Enhancer means and whether it is DTM or not. I'd honestly rather have 4x pixel shifting as opposed to native 4K. With native 4K we will get reduced contrast and the extra bit of sharpness over quad shift ain't worth it to me.

But, I agree with you. I don't think the price or additional features equal something worth waiting for as of yet. I'd still like to see reviews but the price is still going to be a huge jump.


----------



## Marc D Carra

Today I managed to snag an elusive Epson 5050ub refurb unit from Epson Canada. It was about $1200 less than new with a full 2 year warranty. For those of you that have purchased refurbs from Epson direct, what are some of the things I should check for when I receive it, other than hours of usage? 
Also, screen suggestions for a totally light controlled room (Matt black ceiling, dark grey walls, black carpet, no windows). I plan on watching alot of 3D!


----------



## fredworld

Marc D Carra said:


> Today I managed to snag an elusive Epson 5050ub refurb unit from Epson Canada. It was about $1200 less than new with a full 2 year warranty. For those of you that have purchased refurbs from Epson direct, what are some of the things I should check for when I receive it, other than hours of usage?
> Also, screen suggestions for a totally light controlled room (Matt black ceiling, dark grey walls, black carpet, no windows). I plan on watching alot of 3D!


Check out *this post* from PixelPusher15.
It should be of help.


----------



## eieio

PixelPusher15 said:


> Those prices include VAT. Without VAT the pricing is around $4500-5000 USD. There have been questions about what Epson's Dynamic Gamma Enhancer means and whether it is DTM or not. I'd honestly rather have 4x pixel shifting as opposed to native 4K. *With native 4K we will get reduced contrast* and the extra bit of sharpness over quad shift ain't worth it to me.
> 
> But, I agree with you. I don't think the price or additional features equal something worth waiting for as of yet. I'd still like to see reviews but the price is still going to be a huge jump.


May i please ask for educational purposes, why "...with native 4K, we'll get reduced contrast..." please?

i can't seem to understand that.

look forward to reading the answer and thank you in advance.

btw, i am enjoying my 6050 quite a bit though i did encounter flickering last Friday. i am hoping that it is indeed merely the bulb which is a smaller issue than the entire projector's fault! the projector is mounted from the ceiling and i can't remove it by myself (installer needed again). 

with running the projector at HIGH instead of at ECO, i haven't seen any flickering since last Friday, which isn't that long ago. i've only had the 6050 for around 2 weeks' time and have only 57 hours on the bulb. virtually all of it has been on ECO mode except the first hour or so during the set up process as the installer was setting it up and whatever the projector's default setting was, whether it be HIGH or MEDIUM, it was used for around 1-2 hours during the initial set up.

i am hoping that the 57 hours' worth of use, thus far, did not PERMANENTLY hurt the bulb and that by using it on HIGH for, say, 100 hours, would properly SEASON this bulb at last! i would hate ruining my brand spanking new 6050 due to my own ignorance!

that said, i've enjoyed my Epson 8700 for the last 11 years without issues, except for several bad bulbs which were likely due to poor quality control. those bulbs died in under half of the expected hours.

anyway, if my current brand new Epson 6050 would be just like my previous Epson 8700, i'd be very pleased.

using the 6050 for the last 2 days on HIGH has been a joy. everything is so bright, clear, and just more fun to watch.

i'm wondering if running this particular bulb at HIGH is stressing the bulb out, or, is the bulb really rated for the HIGH output and medium is merely running it BELOW its rated output? Or, is the bulb really rated for MEDIUM and running it at HIGH is actually over stressing it?


----------



## Marc D Carra

fredworld said:


> Check out *this post* from PixelPusher15.
> It should be of help.


I don't know what's going on with Epson Canada. I've tried ordering twice on my credit card and twice the order was cancelled, saying the bank wouldn't verify my personal info. Here in Ontario Canada, it's against the law for banks to divulge your personal info to a third party. So after 2 tries, I asked my dad if he would order for me. He did, and the purchase went through as it usually does. Except this time they called him to confirm that he had placed an order with Epson. He confirmed it was him, and they told him the order was approved and the projector would be shipped today. They told him to "Enjoy his Epson Projector". This was early this morning. I waited all day for a shipping confirmation email and nothing. Their website says "same-day shipping" so once again I have a bad feeling. If I get another cancelation email tomorrow, I'm going to lose my mind!


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

eieio said:


> May i please ask for educational purposes, why "...with native 4K, we'll get reduced contrast..." please?
> 
> i can't seem to understand that.
> 
> look forward to reading the answer and thank you in advance.
> 
> btw, i am enjoying my 6050 quite a bit though i did encounter flickering last Friday. i am hoping that it is indeed merely the bulb which is a smaller issue than the entire projector's fault! the projector is mounted from the ceiling and i can't remove it by myself (installer needed again).
> 
> with running the projector at HIGH instead of at ECO, i haven't seen any flickering since last Friday, which isn't that long ago. i've only had the 6050 for around 2 weeks' time and have only 57 hours on the bulb. virtually all of it has been on ECO mode except the first hour or so during the set up process as the installer was setting it up and whatever the projector's default setting was, whether it be HIGH or MEDIUM, it was used for around 1-2 hours during the initial set up.
> 
> i am hoping that the 57 hours' worth of use, thus far, did not PERMANENTLY hurt the bulb and that by using it on HIGH for, say, 100 hours, would properly SEASON this bulb at last! i would hate ruining my brand spanking new 6050 due to my own ignorance!
> 
> that said, i've enjoyed my Epson 8700 for the last 11 years without issues, except for several bad bulbs which were likely due to poor quality control. those bulbs died in under half of the expected hours.
> 
> anyway, if my current brand new Epson 6050 would be just like my previous Epson 8700, i'd be very pleased.
> 
> using the 6050 for the last 2 days on HIGH has been a joy. everything is so bright, clear, and just more fun to watch.
> 
> i'm wondering if running this particular bulb at HIGH is stressing the bulb out, or, is the bulb really rated for the HIGH output and medium is merely running it BELOW its rated output? Or, is the bulb really rated for MEDIUM and running it at HIGH is actually over stressing it?


You worry WAY too much about the lamp mate.. You can't "hurt" or "stress" the lamp, it is the design of the ECO mode that makes the flickering happen. If you run a car lean,it will also sputter.

Problem is these projectors ECO modes, are probably designed to be too stingy with power to comply with wattage regulations around the world or to be able to write in the marketing how low power use they have for all the greenies out there.
I have had 3 different lamp based projectors now and they have ALL done this, some worse than others.. My previous Sony was horrible with flicker, my current Epson TW9400/6050ub have had NO problems with flicker whatsoever because i no longer use eco modes at all.

I NEVER use ECO exactly because experience says flickering will occur at some point depending on lamp quality,and once it starts you cant fix it, usually it will return if you go back to ECO after running HIGH,it is a temporawry fix is also my experience..
And with the epson lamps being a 3rd of the price of the sony,they are dirt cheap,and ofcourse the image quality as you have experienced is increased dramatically in higher lamp modes, so there really is no need to use the ECO mode. You won't be using it to EOL anyways which can be anywhere from 2000 to 6000 hours. NEVER trust what the companies marketing says,because no 2 usage charateristics are the same,and no 2 lamps are the same, so many things factor into lamp life.
I am on my second lamp now, first 1800hrs i keep as a backup, current at 2100 hrs and still no sign of lowered light output,still very bright,and no flickering.. And both lamps have only run in medium and high mode (3D)..

ECO modes should not be used,period..


----------



## RVD26

Marc D Carra said:


> I don't know what's going on with Epson Canada. I've tried ordering twice on my credit card and twice the order was cancelled, saying the bank wouldn't verify my personal info. Here in Ontario Canada, it's against the law for banks to divulge your personal info to a third party. So after 2 tries, I asked my dad if he would order for me. He did, and the purchase went through as it usually does. Except this time they called him to confirm that he had placed an order with Epson. He confirmed it was him, and they told him the order was approved and the projector would be shipped today. They told him to "Enjoy his Epson Projector". This was early this morning. I waited all day for a shipping confirmation email and nothing. Their website says "same-day shipping" so once again I have a bad feeling. If I get another cancelation email tomorrow, I'm going to lose my mind!
> View attachment 3189680


Epson often calls to verify purchases. I too got a call from them before my order was approved. In terms of shipping, I would give them a couple of days to get it shipped out.


----------



## PixelPusher15

eieio said:


> May i please ask for educational purposes, why "...with native 4K, we'll get reduced contrast..." please?
> 
> i can't seem to understand that.
> 
> look forward to reading the answer and thank you in advance.
> 
> btw, i am enjoying my 6050 quite a bit though i did encounter flickering last Friday. i am hoping that it is indeed merely the bulb which is a smaller issue than the entire projector's fault! the projector is mounted from the ceiling and i can't remove it by myself (installer needed again).
> 
> with running the projector at HIGH instead of at ECO, i haven't seen any flickering since last Friday, which isn't that long ago. i've only had the 6050 for around 2 weeks' time and have only 57 hours on the bulb. virtually all of it has been on ECO mode except the first hour or so during the set up process as the installer was setting it up and whatever the projector's default setting was, whether it be HIGH or MEDIUM, it was used for around 1-2 hours during the initial set up.
> 
> i am hoping that the 57 hours' worth of use, thus far, did not PERMANENTLY hurt the bulb and that by using it on HIGH for, say, 100 hours, would properly SEASON this bulb at last! i would hate ruining my brand spanking new 6050 due to my own ignorance!
> 
> that said, i've enjoyed my Epson 8700 for the last 11 years without issues, except for several bad bulbs which were likely due to poor quality control. those bulbs died in under half of the expected hours.
> 
> anyway, if my current brand new Epson 6050 would be just like my previous Epson 8700, i'd be very pleased.
> 
> using the 6050 for the last 2 days on HIGH has been a joy. everything is so bright, clear, and just more fun to watch.
> 
> i'm wondering if running this particular bulb at HIGH is stressing the bulb out, or, is the bulb really rated for the HIGH output and medium is merely running it BELOW its rated output? Or, is the bulb really rated for MEDIUM and running it at HIGH is actually over stressing it?


Native 4K typically narrows the pixel gap (the darkest part of the image) which results in worse black level performance. 

I have seen flicker on a couple of recent Epson projectors that I was able to pretty much clear up by running it in high for a few hours. The lamp is rated at 3500 for High and 5000 for Eco before it hits 50% brightness. I believe this is the same as your previous 8700. If the fan doesn't bother you then run the 6050 on high.


----------



## Alaric

Tsunamijhoe said:


> ECO modes should not be used,period..


I'd actually say mixed use is best.....And well if the PJ is set-up reasonably well, you will probably be doing that naturally.

SDR - Eco, usually with the iris stoppered down, You want 16ftl and the manual iris stopper is only available in Eco I'm on a 120" 1.0 AT screen, PJ mounted at 14' and at -4 - Using 1080p can give an excellent image and you also get FI if you want to use it (low). I'd rarely upscale in the player as you get a double conversion as the player upscales and the projector downscales to do the pixel shift magic.
HDR - Med or High with the Digital Cinema and filter, you'll NEED this power mode. Conserving bulbs is false economy and the HDR performance is based off high power


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> I'd actually say mixed use is best.....And well if the PJ is set-up reasonably well, you will probably be doing that naturally.
> 
> SDR - Eco, usually with the iris stoppered down, You want 16ftl and the manual iris stopper is only available in Eco I'm on a 120" 1.0 AT screen, PJ mounted at 14' and at -4 - Using 1080p can give an excellent image and you also get FI if you want to use it (low). I'd rarely upscale in the player as you get a double conversion as the player upscales and the projector downscales to do the pixel shift magic.
> HDR - Med or High with the Digital Cinema and filter, you'll NEED this power mode. Conserving bulbs is false economy and the HDR performance is based off high power


You can use the manual iris in all power modes.


----------



## eieio

Tsunamijhoe said:


> You worry WAY too much about the lamp mate.. You can't "hurt" or "stress" the lamp, it is the design of the ECO mode that makes the flickering happen. If you run a car lean,it will also sputter.
> 
> Problem is these projectors ECO modes, are probably designed to be too stingy with power to comply with wattage regulations around the world or to be able to write in the marketing how low power use they have for all the greenies out there.
> I have had 3 different lamp based projectors now and they have ALL done this, some worse than others.. My previous Sony was horrible with flicker, my current Epson TW9400/6050ub have had NO problems with flicker whatsoever because i no longer use eco modes at all.
> 
> I NEVER use ECO exactly because experience says flickering will occur at some point depending on lamp quality,and once it starts you cant fix it, usually it will return if you go back to ECO after running HIGH,it is a temporawry fix is also my experience..
> And with the epson lamps being a 3rd of the price of the sony,they are dirt cheap,and ofcourse the image quality as you have experienced is increased dramatically in higher lamp modes, so there really is no need to use the ECO mode. You won't be using it to EOL anyways which can be anywhere from 2000 to 6000 hours. NEVER trust what the companies marketing says,because no 2 usage charateristics are the same,and no 2 lamps are the same, so many things factor into lamp life.
> I am on my second lamp now, first 1800hrs i keep as a backup, current at 2100 hrs and still no sign of lowered light output,still very bright,and no flickering.. And both lamps have only run in medium and high mode (3D)..
> 
> ECO modes should not be used,period..





PixelPusher15 said:


> ...
> 
> I have seen flicker on a couple of recent Epson projectors that I was able to pretty much clear up by running it in high for a few hours. The lamp is rated at 3500 for High and 5000 for Eco before it hits 50% brightness. I believe this is the same as your previous 8700. If the fan doesn't bother you then run the 6050 on high.





Alaric said:


> I'd actually say mixed use is best.....And well if the PJ is set-up reasonably well, you will probably be doing that naturally.
> 
> SDR - Eco, usually with the iris stoppered down, You want 16ftl and the manual iris stopper is only available in Eco I'm on a 120" 1.0 AT screen, PJ mounted at 14' and at -4 - Using 1080p can give an excellent image and you also get FI if you want to use it (low). I'd rarely upscale in the player as you get a double conversion as the player upscales and the projector downscales to do the pixel shift magic.
> *HDR - Med or High with the Digital Cinema and filter, you'll NEED this power mode. Conserving bulbs is false economy and the HDR performance is based off high power*


All: thank you all very much for your comments. they are helpful and educational for me. despite having owned and enjoyed my Epson 8700 for 11+ years, i've never encountered or known about this ECO flickering issue! can you imagine?

then, 2 weeks ago, i got my Epson 6050 and after the initial 1-2 hours of setting up on whatever the default mode was, either HIGH or MEDIUM, i changed it to ECO merely after the initial 1-2 hours without giving it much thought since i thought that if that's enough lumens for me, it will just give me longer bulb life!

after merely 2 weeks of using the 6050 (~57 hours of use), i saw flickering. posting what i discovered online here, the collective wisdom here informed me to run it on HIGH or MEDIUM to "season" the bulb's arc, in hopes of either reversing the damage done by the initial 57 hours' use, OR, at least limit the damage done.

So, i'm now running it at HIGH for at least the next 100 hours, if not more, and maybe, it might be ok to use it on MEDIUM thereafter?

btw, i wanted to see if there are *suggested websites to buy replacement ORIGINAL EPSON bulbs at a good discount please? * i am interested in buying replacement ORIGINAL EPSON bulb (ELPLP 89), meaning the entire thing is original, not just the inside bulb, but the housing, even the outer packaging is as if one were to buy it from Epson. my projector is installed upside down from the ceiling, and the ceiling height is high, so replacing a bulb is not fun. i've heard issues from just getting a replacement bulb with the same inside bulb, but a "compatible housing". i wouldn't want that. i'd prefer an original Epson part, which means the entire thing is Epson sourced, but a site might sell it at a discounted price compared with buying directly from Epson.

thank you all for your truly helpful replies. very much appreciated.


----------



## Luminated67

PixelPusher15 said:


> You can use the manual iris in all power modes.


Yeah I’m not sure what Alaric meant there but you can close the iris down in all modes.


----------



## Luminated67

eieio said:


> All: thank you all very much for your comments. they are helpful and educational for me. despite having owned and enjoyed my Epson 8700 for 11+ years, i've never encountered or known about this ECO flickering issue! can you imagine?
> 
> then, 2 weeks ago, i got my Epson 6050 and after the initial 1-2 hours of setting up on whatever the default mode was, either HIGH or MEDIUM, i changed it to ECO merely after the initial 1-2 hours without giving it much thought since i thought that if that's enough lumens for me, it will just give me longer bulb life!
> 
> after merely 2 weeks of using the 6050 (~57 hours of use), i saw flickering. posting what i discovered online here, the collective wisdom here informed me to run it on HIGH or MEDIUM to "season" the bulb's arc, in hopes of either reversing the damage done by the initial 57 hours' use, OR, at least limit the damage done.
> 
> So, i'm now running it at HIGH for at least the next 100 hours, if not more, and maybe, it might be ok to use it on MEDIUM thereafter?
> 
> btw, i wanted to see if there are *suggested websites to buy replacement ORIGINAL EPSON bulbs at a good discount please? * i am interested in buying replacement ORIGINAL EPSON bulb (ELPLP 89), meaning the entire thing is original, not just the inside bulb, but the housing, even the outer packaging is as if one were to buy it from Epson. my projector is installed upside down from the ceiling, and the ceiling height is high, so replacing a bulb is not fun. i've heard issues from just getting a replacement bulb with the same inside bulb, but a "compatible housing". i wouldn't want that. i'd prefer an original Epson part, which means the entire thing is Epson sourced, but a site might sell it at a discounted price compared with buying directly from Epson.
> 
> thank you all for your truly helpful replies. very much appreciated.


I don’t know what the Epson US charge for the bulb but Epson UK charge only £105 for the replacement bulb, just scroll down near the bottom of the link.


----------



## fredworld

@eieio, my lamp journey is well documented in *this post* which has several links to other posts of mine on the lamp replacement alternatives. I'm sticking with buying direct from Epson, for me the price difference isn't worth shopping elsewhere. YMMV.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Alaric said:


> I'd actually say mixed use is best.....And well if the PJ is set-up reasonably well, you will probably be doing that naturally.
> 
> SDR - Eco, usually with the iris stoppered down, You want 16ftl and the manual iris stopper is only available in Eco I'm on a 120" 1.0 AT screen, PJ mounted at 14' and at -4 - Using 1080p can give an excellent image and you also get FI if you want to use it (low). I'd rarely upscale in the player as you get a double conversion as the player upscales and the projector downscales to do the pixel shift magic.
> HDR - Med or High with the Digital Cinema and filter, you'll NEED this power mode. Conserving bulbs is false economy and the HDR performance is based off high power


My personal experience says no ECO mode at all,no matter the projector.. Like i wrote previous,i have experienced this on different projector brands on both original and aftermarket lamps,and it ALWAYS without fail begins in ECO mode.. I dont understand why you would limit light output just because you watch SDR? If something is too bright,turn down manual iris (edited for correct setting)..
Using ECO mode is a recipe for bulb failure.. If you cant afford to run a lamp at minimum medium setting for the duration of the lamp lifespan, you should have bought a TV..
Again,this is my PERSONAL experience using Optoma,Sony and Epson.

I understand your comment pertains to image quality, but real world use, there should be no reason for ECO mode use at all.. This is a mode made by the manufacturer to "cook the books" so the marketing and tech specs can show low power consumption.. The lamps as evidenced by SO many people on these boards are not designed to be run at these low wattages is my unprofessional experienced opinion.

Not a single review "I" have read, where they also share their calibration settings use ECO as a viable mode for anything..

Ofcourse people can run their projectors exactly how they want, but thinking bulb will last longer in ECO is not correct.. In fact you a MUCH higher risk of flickering and bulb replacement WAY before you might have had to replace a bulb that has run on medium and/or high.
In the Sony, once flickering began, you might as well replace bulb as no matter of lamp mode would "fix" it, and i even had sony themselves in contact with my dealer and me personally,it never got fixed,and Sony as a compensation gave me a total of 3 new bulbs over the course of the warranty.
This is also well documented in previous posts i have on this board.

I also ONLY buy original lamps these days,as i had too many problems with aftermarket on both Sony and Epson, and lamps for the Epson are SO cheap it really makes no sense neither technical nor finacial to use ECO..

My projector sees 3500 hrs a year at present,so i use quite a bit of lamps..

Just DON'T use ECO,simple as that..


----------



## PixelPusher15

Tsunamijhoe said:


> If something is too bright,turn down brightness..


That is not what Brightness is for. It is for adjusting shadow detail. If you turn it down you are going to crush blacks. If you turn it up you are going to raise the black floor. It should be carefully set and then not touched unless your bulb ages and it needs to be carefully set again.



Tsunamijhoe said:


> Not a SINGLE review i have read where they also share their calibration settings use ECO as a viable mode for anything..











Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com


Epson’s Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector delivers a sharp bright image with superb color accuracy and contrast. For just $3000, you get Ultra HD...




hometheaterhifi.com




This reviewer seems to use Eco and iris at -8. They say set the iris and bulb setting to personal tastes.









Epson Home Cinema 5050UBe 4K PRO-UHD 3LCD Projector Review


Epson's Home Cinema 5050UBe and 5050UB are worthy successors to the popular HC 5040UB series and a great value.



www.projectorcentral.com




Rob Sabin used Eco and iris at -11 for SDR dark room viewing. 

I haven't seen a single reviewer say not to use Eco. I used it and Medium exclusively for 500 hours on my 5050 and saw some flickering early on that was remedied with 3-4 hours of High power. Eco for SDR and Medium for HDR. I don't see the point of not using it when High and Medium usually always clear up the flickering. Use Eco as much as possible and then if it flickers, switch it to one of the other modes for a bit and switch it back. Epson, and every projector manufacturer rated the bulb for longer life in Eco mode. I don't think they would equip the projector with a mode that leads to early failure. They replace flicker-prone bulbs as part of your warranty when they have low hours on them. 

I understand your hesitancy for using it based on your experience but don't use brightness to adjust the light output. Use the manual iris instead.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

PixelPusher15 said:


> That is not what Brightness is for. It is for adjusting shadow detail. If you turn it down you are going to crush blacks. If you turn it up you are going to raise the black floor. It should be carefully set and then not touched unless your bulb ages and it needs to be carefully set again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com
> 
> 
> Epson’s Home Cinema 5050UB 4K PRO-UHD Projector delivers a sharp bright image with superb color accuracy and contrast. For just $3000, you get Ultra HD...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hometheaterhifi.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This reviewer seems to use Eco and iris at -8. They say set the iris and bulb setting to personal tastes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 5050UBe 4K PRO-UHD 3LCD Projector Review
> 
> 
> Epson's Home Cinema 5050UBe and 5050UB are worthy successors to the popular HC 5040UB series and a great value.
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorcentral.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rob Sabin used Eco and iris at -11 for SDR dark room viewing.
> 
> I haven't seen a single reviewer say not to use Eco. I used it and Medium exclusively for 500 hours on my 5050 and saw some flickering early on that was remedied with 3-4 hours of High power. Eco for SDR and Medium for HDR. I don't see the point of not using it when High and Medium usually always clear up the flickering. Use Eco as much as possible and then if it flickers, switch it to one of the other modes for a bit and switch it back. Epson, and every projector manufacturer rated the bulb for longer life in Eco mode. I don't think they would equip the projector with a mode that leads to early failure. They replace flicker-prone bulbs as part of your warranty when they have low hours on them.
> 
> I understand your hesitancy for using it based on your experience but don't use brightness to adjust the light output. Use the manual iris instead.


OK then,so some reviews actually use the ECO mode,color me dumbfounded. I have not read those.
I also learned something new then,i didnt know brightness pertains to shadow detail,i will edit this comment to manual iris.
Thank you for pointing that out.

My point persist though, ECO is a recipe for bulb failure.. They are not designed for it,no matter the marketing,if they were we wouldn't be having this discussion. Epson though seem to have a better handle on the low wattage flickering problem,as i haven't seen nearly as many flickering posts as i did with the Sonys and if changing mode fixes the problem permanantly they do a much better job than Sony does,because on the sony once flickering began, you needed to replace bulb,it would also flicker on high,but sometimes it would fix the problem for a short while,but it always came back,and got increasingly bad.

Does the flickering not come back on the Epson if you go back to eco,after you do high if flcikering has begun on the epson?

I am of the persuasion,better safe than sorry,and i truly do not see a reason for ECO mode at all.. I only run medium because of fan noise as the projector is directly above my MLP, otherwise it would have been high mode all the way baby :-D
But again, to each their own, just know if flickering starts, it is because of ECO..


----------



## PixelPusher15

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I digress then about the reviews, i thought i had read them all, clearly not,i apologize and will edit my comment so as not to confuse future readers.. I also learned something new then,i didnt know brightness pertains to shadow detail, again it was merely meant as a comment to why you would limit light output,i will edit this comment also to manual iris.
> Thank you for pointing that out.
> 
> My point persist though, ECO is a recipe for bulb failure.. They are not designed for it,no matter the marketing. Epson though seem to have a better handle on the low wattage flickering problem,as i haven't seen nearly as many flickering posts as i did with the Sonys.. But i am of the persuasion,better safe than sorry,and i truly do not see a reason for ECO mode at all..


Brightness and contrast have always been terribly named IMO and I believe just confuse people that don't study how to calibrate a display. 

I like Eco because I don't need the output of Medium and I like the better blacks/lower fan noise of Eco. Once I build my hush box I'll probably always run it in Medium with a lower iris setting for improved contrast. The longer lamp life is also appealing although not a huge factor.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Luminated67 said:


> Yeah I’m not sure what Alaric meant there but you can close the iris down in all modes.


I see what @Alaric is talkin' 'bout now. I was just messing with the settings and saw that the manual iris isn't available in Dynamic unless on Eco.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

PixelPusher15 said:


> Brightness and contrast have always been terribly named IMO and I believe just confuse people that don't study how to calibrate a display.
> 
> I like Eco because I don't need the output of Medium and I like the better blacks/lower fan noise of Eco. Once I build my hush box I'll probably always run it in Medium with a lower iris setting for improved contrast. The longer lamp life is also appealing although not a huge factor.


Real life and honesty.. Have you EVER had a lamp on any projector run the full period the manufacturer has put in their tech specs? If you have,have you noticed a real world difference in lamp life using ECO vs medium/high? IE,is it really worth sacrificing image quality over lamplife if the difference in reality is a lot less than what the makers tech specs say?
Or has this actually never been (con)tested?

Projector manufacturers do not inform about how much less light a lamp will deliver over its lifespan, and is their specs meant to be taken as rated from 100% at new to 0% at rated EOL? Meaning will a rated 5000hrs ECO mean from full light to a bulb that has stopped working completely? Or do they work with a margin before lamp replacement is "recommended"?


----------



## eieio

Replacement ORIGINAL Epson bulb for 6050/5050:



https://www.jaspertronics.com/products/elplp89-om



it appears like they are selling the genuine, original Epson part. 

can it possibly be true? i don't know and can't tell.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

eieio said:


> Replacement ORIGINAL Epson bulb for 6050/5050:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.jaspertronics.com/products/elplp89-om
> 
> 
> 
> it appears like they are selling the genuine, original Epson part.
> 
> can it possibly be true? i don't know and can't tell.


Yes "Epson Lamp & Housing - Retail Packaging".. I see you yanks pay 50% more than us,it is usually the other way around.. I just bought 2 original lamps from my dealer at what amounts to 140$ each


----------



## fredworld

eieio said:


> Replacement ORIGINAL Epson bulb for 6050/5050:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.jaspertronics.com/products/elplp89-om
> 
> 
> 
> it appears like they are selling the genuine, original Epson part.
> 
> can it possibly be true? i don't know and can't tell.


Try them. Then you can post back to let us know if *this problem* was resolved.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Real life and honesty.. Have you EVER had a lamp on any projector run the full period the manufacturer has put in their tech specs? If you have,have you noticed a real world difference in lamp life using ECO vs medium/high? IE,is it really worth it if the difference is a few 10s or 100s hrs?
> Projector manufacturers do not inform about how much less light a lamp will deliver over its lifespan, and is their specs meant to be taken as rated from 100% at new to 0% at rated EOL? Meaning will a rated 5000hrs ECO mean from full light to a bulb that has stopped working completely? Or do they work with a margin before lamp replacement is "recommended"?


Lamp ratings are to 50% original output. A lot of lamps dim by 15-20% after the first few hundred hours. So most of the rated life is using it from 85-50% of original output.

I have never owned a projector long enough to burn through a lamp, nope. I know you have. I've also read many accounts form people that don't ever take their projector off of Eco until it dims to the point they need to turn it up. What I have learned is that lamps are like snowflakes, each is unique. You can search all over these threads and see polarizing takes on each lamp issue. OEM vs non-OEM. Do lamps dim 20% in the first few hundred hours or not? Use Eco or not? Brand quality differences. Etc. etc. etc. You can read about people with a good long history of lamps for each brand, usage, and replacement supplier. You can also find the exact opposite.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Brightness and contrast have always been terribly named IMO and I believe just confuse people that [who] don't study how to calibrate a display.


Truer words were never spoken. 
"Brightness" = Black level
"Contrast" = White level
Simple as that.
Both settings affect both actual contrast and actual brightness. I remember as a kid trying to fiddle with the analog knobs on our family TV, and couldn't figure out what the heck kind of affect "brightness" and "contrast" were having, or how to set them. Much later in life it all became clear (and I wish I'd known how to use the SMPTE color bars pattern on channel 13 as a kid! little known fact- the SMPTE color bars pattern that was often broadcast on many TV stations after hours contains a PLUGE pattern for setting black level!)


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Truer words were never spoken.
> "Brightness" = Black level
> "Contrast" = White level
> Simple as that.
> Both settings affect both actual contrast and actual brightness. I remember as a kid trying to fiddle with the analog knobs on our family TV, and couldn't figure out what the heck kind of affect "brightness" and "contrast" were having, or how to set them. Much later in life it all became clear (and I wish I'd known how to use the SMPTE color bars pattern on channel 13 as a kid! little known fact- the SMPTE color bars pattern that was often broadcast on many TV stations after hours contains a PLUGE pattern for setting black level!)


Thanks for fixing my grammar


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> Thanks for fixing my grammar


LOL ... only because I couldn't otherwise say the "truer words..." part.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

PixelPusher15 said:


> Lamp ratings are to 50% original output. A lot of lamps dim by 15-20% after the first few hundred hours. So most of the rated life is using it from 85-50% of original output.
> 
> I have never owned a projector long enough to burn through a lamp, nope. I know you have. I've also read many accounts form people that don't ever take their projector off of Eco until it dims to the point they need to turn it up. What I have learned is that lamps are like snowflakes, each is unique. You can search all over these threads and see polarizing takes on each lamp issue. OEM vs non-OEM. Do lamps dim 20% in the first few hundred hours or not? Use Eco or not? Brand quality differences. Etc. etc. etc. You can read about people with a good long history of lamps for each brand, usage, and replacement supplier. You can also find the exact opposite.


Thank you for the explanation. I guess lamps are like harddrives then. If only they had the same warranty.. That said, Epson is by far the best quality lamp based projector i have owned, everything about it is well designed and it is very stable and has an awesome image at the price point..And now 2 lamps past 1500hrs and absolutly no flicker nor any noticeable loss of output,is just astonishing.
I would go so far as to say,if i was offered a free top of the line sony or optoma,i would still keep my epson. I have never experienced a JVC as they have always been outside my price point,and their lamps are just ridiculously expensive,especially when i use 3500hrs a year.


----------



## eieio

fredworld said:


> Try them. Then you can post back to let us know if *this problem* was resolved.


@fredworld: may i ask in your purchase from jaspertronics, did you also order the model/type


Tsunamijhoe said:


> Thank you for the explanation. I guess lamps are like harddrives then. If only they had the same warranty.. That said, Epson is by far the best quality lamp based projector i have owned, everything about it is well designed and it is very stable and has an awesome image at the price point..And now* 2 lamps past 1500hrs and absolutly no flicker nor any noticeable loss of output,is just astonishing.*
> I would go so far as to say,if i was offered a free top of the line sony or optoma,i would still keep my epson. I have never experienced a JVC as they have always been outside my price point,and their lamps are just ridiculously expensive,especially when i use 3500hrs a year.


@Tsunamijhoe: may i ask what you meant by "...* 2 lamps past 1500hrs and absolutly no flicker nor any noticeable loss of output,is just astonishing..."?*

did you use your first lamp till just past 1500 hours and then simply decided to NOT use it anymore? if so, for what reason? they certainly have more life than 1500 hours, right?

confused.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

eieio said:


> @fredworld: may i ask in your purchase from jaspertronics, did you also order the model/type
> 
> 
> @Tsunamijhoe: may i ask what you meant by "...* 2 lamps past 1500hrs and absolutly no flicker nor any noticeable loss of output,is just astonishing..."?*
> 
> did you use your first lamp till just past 1500 hours and then simply decided to NOT use it anymore? if so, for what reason? they certainly have more life than 1500 hours, right?
> 
> confused.


Seeing as lamps are considered consumables they have limited warranty.. If i were to buy one, wait 6 months to use it,only to find out it didnt work,i would be out of money. So when i get new lamp,i exchange current with new and keep old as backup,then i know it work as it should.. Ofcourse i could just put new one in,check it works,and put old one back again, but then i broke the seal,and i wouldnt be able to sell or return it for any reason if i needed to.

However, since i just got a deal i couldn't refuse, i now have 3 brand new original lamps in storage,so i am taking a risk in storing them not knowing if they work or not. I am used to changing lamp every 2000hrs from the sony, but the epson lamps are a lot better than the sonys and now at current 2100hrs i still havent noticed a lowered output,so i am waiting to exchange it to see how far it will go before i replace. I still have the first original lamp i took out which has 1800hrs on it as a working backup.
Lamps dont go bad on a shelf,so i am confident my 3 lamps will work when i need them. and at 3500hrs a year usage,they will go pretty fast.. If projector craps out before then,i buy a new one same make and model if i can,as it is simply that good .

I ONLY run lamps on medium and high.. Never ECO.


----------



## eieio

fredworld said:


> Try them. Then you can post back to let us know if *this problem* was resolved.


@fredworld: on jaspertronics.com, when i entered ELPLP89 into their search bar, i get FOUR results:









Search Results


Search Results




www.jaspertronics.com





1) purportedly all ORIGINAL Epson, i.e. the bulb, the housing, and even the packaging and the sticker are all supposed to be original Epson

2) genuine AL ELPLP90 Lamp & Housing...: this states aftermarket lamp & housing

3) original Ushio ELPLP89 Lamp & Housing...: this states Ushio lamp & housing 

4) original Ushio ELPLP89/V13H010L90 Lamp & Housing for Epson Projectors

it seems to me that ONLY (1) above, the one that states it is ORIGINAL Epson, would have the genuine Epson housing and the actual bulb they use inside. The others seem to be clear in saying they are NOT the actual ORIGINAL Epson bulb and housing (and exterior box and sticker).

may i please ask that when you discovered that the screws were different than ORIGINAL Epson bulbs' screws in your earlier posts, which jaspertronics item did you order please?

i'm confused and couldn't follow/figure out which specific one of the four options you purchased.

thank you.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

eieio said:


> @fredworld: on jaspertronics.com, when i entered ELPLP89 into their search bar, i get FOUR results:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Search Results
> 
> 
> Search Results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.jaspertronics.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) purportedly all ORIGINAL Epson, i.e. the bulb, the housing, and even the packaging and the sticker are all supposed to be original Epson
> 
> 2) genuine AL ELPLP90 Lamp & Housing...: this states aftermarket lamp & housing
> 
> 3) original Ushio ELPLP89 Lamp & Housing...: this states Ushio lamp & housing
> 
> 4) original Ushio ELPLP89/V13H010L90 Lamp & Housing for Epson Projectors
> 
> it seems to me that ONLY (1) above, the one that states it is ORIGINAL Epson, would have the genuine Epson housing and the actual bulb they use inside. The others seem to be clear in saying they are NOT the actual ORIGINAL Epson bulb and housing (and exterior box and sticker).
> 
> may i please ask that when you discovered that the screws were different than ORIGINAL Epson bulbs' screws in your earlier posts, which jaspertronics item did you order please?
> 
> i'm confused and couldn't follow/figure out which specific one of the four options you purchased.
> 
> thank you.


Look at the price.. Dead giveaway which is the original one.. There can be only 1 https://www.jaspertronics.com/products/elplp89-om
Also all the other 3 has clear wording they are USHIO and AL (whatever that is)


----------



## eieio

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Look at the price.. Dead giveaway which is the original one.. There can be only 1 https://www.jaspertronics.com/products/elplp89-om
> Also all the other 3 has clear wording they are USHIO and AL (whatever that is)


that wasn't my question.

i merely asked which one he bought and was commenting on in his various earlier posts - there were quite a few posts.

it's important to know which specific one he bought.


----------



## fredworld

eieio said:


> @fredworld: on jaspertronics.com, when i entered ELPLP89 into their search bar, i get FOUR results:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Search Results
> 
> 
> Search Results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.jaspertronics.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) purportedly all ORIGINAL Epson, i.e. the bulb, the housing, and even the packaging and the sticker are all supposed to be original Epson
> 
> 2) genuine AL ELPLP90 Lamp & Housing...: this states aftermarket lamp & housing
> 
> 3) original Ushio ELPLP89 Lamp & Housing...: this states Ushio lamp & housing
> 
> 4) original Ushio ELPLP89/V13H010L90 Lamp & Housing for Epson Projectors
> 
> it seems to me that ONLY (1) above, the one that states it is ORIGINAL Epson, would have the genuine Epson housing and the actual bulb they use inside. The others seem to be clear in saying they are NOT the actual ORIGINAL Epson bulb and housing (and exterior box and sticker).
> 
> may i please ask that when you discovered that the screws were different than ORIGINAL Epson bulbs' screws in your earlier posts, which jaspertronics item did you order please?
> 
> i'm confused and couldn't follow/figure out which specific one of the four options you purchased.
> 
> thank you.





Tsunamijhoe said:


> Look at the price.. Dead giveaway which is the original one.. There can be only 1 https://www.jaspertronics.com/products/elplp89-om
> Also all the other 3 has clear wording they are USHIO and AL (whatever that is)


I'm sure I ordered the one designated with the Epson label as explained in *this post*. You should do a search here for "jaspertronics" in this thread. There are several interesting posts. Having said that, the supply from third party vendors _might_ be corrected at this point. See *this post*, too.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

eieio said:


> that wasn't my question.
> 
> i merely asked which one he bought and was commenting on in his various earlier posts - there were quite a few posts.
> 
> it's important to know which specific one he bought.


Oh,my mistake.. Thought you were looking for the original one.. The wrong screw size were a problem in Europe too,and i havent ordered an aftermarket since then,so i can not attest to wether or not it is fixed.


----------



## eieio

fredworld said:


> I'm sure I ordered the one designated with the Epson label. You should do a search here for "jaspertronics" in this thread. There are several interesting posts. Having said that, the supply from third party vendors _might_ be corrected at this point. See *this post*, too.


@fredworld: thanks for your reply. i'm confused. if jaspertronics says THIS particular option is ORIGINAL Epson with the Epson brown box and the Epson sticker label, and it says specifically that it is all original, i.e. the same bulb as from Epson and the SAME HOUSING as from Epson, then what would be different about this jaspertronics "ORIGINAL Epson" lamp and one that is ordered directly from Epson please?

i don't understand. wouldn't they be identical?

even the brown box and the sticker seems to look the same.


----------



## eieio

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Oh,my mistake.. *Thought you were looking for the original one.. *The wrong screw size were a problem in Europe too,and i havent ordered an aftermarket since then,so i can not attest to wether or not it is fixed.


i AM looking for the ORIGINAL Epson bulb!! i would ideally like the ORIGINAL Epson bulb, with the original Epson housing, and the brown Epson box, and the Epson sticker/label, exactly as if one were to buy it from Epson directly, but hopefully, at a somewhat discounted price.

many things are able to be bought at somewhat lower than MSRP so i was merely asking which online vendor is reliable for buying the ELPLP89 bulbs. i didn't realize that that seemingly innocent question turned out to be so complicated!

ha ha. i really honestly want to buy some spare bulbs due to the unknown supply situation nowadays, and since i have a brand spanking new 6050, i don't want to have any down time since i'm enjoying it so much.


----------



## fredworld

eieio said:


> @fredworld: thanks for your reply. i'm confused. if jaspertronics says THIS particular option is ORIGINAL Epson with the Epson brown box and the Epson sticker label, and it says specifically that it is all original, i.e. the same bulb as from Epson and the SAME HOUSING as from Epson, then what would be different about this jaspertronics "ORIGINAL Epson" lamp and one that is ordered directly from Epson please?
> 
> i don't understand. wouldn't they be identical?
> 
> even the brown box and the sticker seems to look the same.


That's not how it turned out for me. Study the pictures I posted in the multiple posts that I linked in my original post to you on this lamp replacement topic and you should see that the packaging was different from Epson vs the others. With some of the third party vendors there are slight but important differences in the application of the warranty, too. Read the fine print about refunds and restocking fees. 
My recommendation is to stick with Epson, bite the bullet on the higher price, get the one year warranty and don't look back. 👍


----------



## eieio

fredworld said:


> That's not how it turned out for me. Study the pictures I posted in the multiple posts that I linked in my original post to you on this lamp replacement topic and you should see that the packaging was different from Epson vs the others. With some of the third party vendors there are slight but important differences in the application of the warranty, too. Read the fine print about refunds and restocking fees.
> My recommendation is to stick with Epson, bite the bullet on the higher price, get the one year warranty and don't look back.


@fredworld: so from Epson USA, it would be $330 each ELPLP89, right?

Might that be your suggestion? Ultimately if that's what it takes to ensure safety and reduced stomach acid, it's worth it! 

if the >$200 per bulb option that is titled Original Epson, etc., which was the FIRST option in my post earlier, is NOT original Epson, wouldn't it be entirely, totally misleading?


----------



## fredworld

eieio said:


> @fredworld: so from Epson USA, it would be $330 each ELPLP89, right?
> 
> Might that be your suggestion? Ultimately if that's what it takes to ensure safety and reduced stomach acid, it's worth it!
> 
> if the >$200 per bulb option that is titled Original Epson, etc., which was the FIRST option in my post earlier, is NOT original Epson, wouldn't it be entirely, totally misleading?


Yes, to your first question.
It's not up to me, to your last.


----------



## lawdogx

I recently ordered a replacement lamp and housing for my 5040ub from Jaspertronics. I can confirm that what I received was the Epson part with the Epson shiny sticker in the Epson box and it works perfectly. They may have other options for sale but the one they represented as OEM (ELPLP89 in my case) was what they say. I’m a sample size of one but I’m a satisfied customer.


----------



## Enchy

Marc D Carra said:


> Today I managed to snag an elusive Epson 5050ub refurb unit from Epson Canada. It was about $1200 less than new with a full 2 year warranty. For those of you that have purchased refurbs from Epson direct, what are some of the things I should check for when I receive it, other than hours of usage?
> Also, screen suggestions for a totally light controlled room (Matt black ceiling, dark grey walls, black carpet, no windows). I plan on watching alot of 3D!


If you don't already have glasses, the XPAND X105-RF-X1 are excellent. I think I saw them recommended in this thread and they're great.


----------



## Marc D Carra

Enchy said:


> If you don't already have glasses, the XPAND X105-RF-X1 are excellent. I think I saw them recommended in this thread and they're great.


Thanks, for the info. I have some Hi Shock Scarlett Heaven RF glasses. Their website says they work with the Epson so I hope so. I don't think brightness will be a problem with any of the glasses based on the lumen output of the 5050. I'm looking at using an Elite Cinegrey 3D screen for starters and get something more high end later on.


----------



## Marc D Carra

My 5050 will be here soon and I'm trying to figure out the best placement. My ceilings are only 7ft so I was thinking of sitting it in a square table about 4 feet in front of the main viewing position. The bottom of my screen is only about 18" from the floor with my center channel below angled slightly upwards towards the listening position. Since the 5050 vents from the front, this would vent away from the seating. Can you think of any downsides of doing this? I would run the cables under the flooring.


----------



## BlueMan Jones

Marc D Carra said:


> My 5050 will be here soon and I'm trying to figure out the best placement. My ceilings are only 7ft so I was thinking of sitting it in a square table about 4 feet in front of the main viewing position. The bottom of my screen is only about 18" from the floor with my center channel below angled slightly upwards towards the listening position. Since the 5050 vents from the front, this would vent away from the seating. Can you think of any downsides of doing this? I would run the cables under the flooring.


My ceilings are the same height as yours and my current projector is 2 inches shorter than the 5050, but I have more than enough room above my head in the primary seating position with the projector being almost directly overhead. I had planned to get a 5050, but i'm now going to wait on the epson 5060, at least that's what folks on here are calling it. I plan to install it in the same spot overhead, maybe back a little.

Point is if your only concern is that the height of the projector will take up too much airspace if placed on your ceiling, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.....unless you have family members in the NBA


----------



## rekbones

Marc D Carra said:


> My 5050 will be here soon and I'm trying to figure out the best placement. My ceilings are only 7ft so I was thinking of sitting it in a square table about 4 feet in front of the main viewing position. The bottom of my screen is only about 18" from the floor with my center channel below angled slightly upwards towards the listening position. Since the 5050 vents from the front, this would vent away from the seating. Can you think of any downsides of doing this? I would run the cables under the flooring.
> View attachment 3190062


If placed 4' in front of your seating distance what's your throw distance/screen size? You will be seated way too far back for any kind of a cinematic field of view. Like watching a 65" TV from 12' away.


----------



## rekbones

Just my 2 cents on the ECO lamp discussion. I currently have 3500hrs on my refurbed 5050ub and it has been on ECO 99% of the time with no bulb flicker and it's just as bright as it was after the initial new lamp drop off. My Mitsubishi HC7900 was always on ECO with around 6 lamp changes at around 3000hrs each due to dimming with never a flicker. Mits does strike the lamp in high for about a min or two after full brightness before switching to ECO so excellent firmware design that all projectors should use. My used JVC RS49U with an unknown lamp (previous owner reset lamp to zero) developed a flicker in ECO fairly quickly so ran in high most of the time. Brand new BenQ 3550 also developed a flicker in ECO so also ran in high but really needed the brightness anyways and its replacement lamp did the same thing. So to run ECO is not a certain death wish to lamps in every case but very well has the possibility to contribute to it.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

rekbones said:


> Just my 2 cents on the ECO lamp discussion. I currently have 3500hrs on my refurbed 5050ub and it has been on ECO 99% of the time with no bulb flicker and it's just as bright as it was after the initial new lamp drop off. My Mitsubishi HC7900 was always on ECO with around 6 lamp changes at around 3000hrs each due to dimming with never a flicker. Mits does strike the lamp in high for about a min or two after full brightness before switching to ECO so excellent firmware design that all projectors should use. My used JVC RS49U with an unknown lamp (previous owner reset lamp to zero) developed a flicker in ECO fairly quickly so ran in high most of the time. Brand new BenQ 3550 also developed a flicker in ECO so also ran in high but really needed the brightness anyways and its replacement lamp did the same thing. So to run ECO is not a certain death wish to lamps in every case but very well has the possibility to contribute to it.


The more stories like this we get the better we can extrapolate wether or not a given pj is prone to flicker.. Seems some brands are very prone and some not at all. I for one will never buy a Sony again,i would also never buy a BenQ,mostly because i have really bad experiences with their monitors,if they suck at making monitors,chances are they suck at making pjs too.

Thank you for sharing.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> You can use the manual iris in all power modes.


I'm on the Tw9400 so there may be a difference here, but the Manual Iris, stoppering down (0 to -20) in Image/Advanced is greyed out on Med/High power on mine - To be honest it makes sense, as upping light to restrict it back down is a bit of a curious idea and you may get heat issues.

Obviously the Dynamic Iris - Off / Normal / Fast - works in all modes as that predicts the light needed and increases dynamic contrast


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> I'm on the Tw9400 so there may be a difference here, but the Manual Iris, stoppering down (0 to -20) in Image/Advanced is greyed out on Med/High power on mine - To be honest it makes sense, as upping light to restrict it back down is a bit of a curious idea and you may get heat issues.
> 
> Obviously the Dynamic Iris - Off / Normal / Fast - works in all modes as that predicts the light needed and increases dynamic contrast


I saw on AVForums that it looks like you use Dynamic for your picture mode. I left a comment a page back that said I noticed in that color mode doesn't allow the manual iris to be adjusted in Medium or High. I believe that's what you are experiencing?

In Natural/Medium or High I can play with the manual iris all I want.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Alaric said:


> I'm on the Tw9400 so there may be a difference here, but the Manual Iris, stoppering down (0 to -20) in Image/Advanced is greyed out on Med/High power on mine - To be honest it makes sense, as upping light to restrict it back down is a bit of a curious idea and you may get heat issues.
> 
> Obviously the Dynamic Iris - Off / Normal / Fast - works in all modes as that predicts the light needed and increases dynamic contrast


Im also on tw9400 and manual iris work fine in all lamp modes. I use bright, digital and natural. It is greyed out in dynamic as pixel pusher says.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> I saw on AVForums that it looks like you use Dynamic for your picture mode. I left a comment a page back that said I noticed in that color mode doesn't allow the manual iris to be adjusted in Medium or High. I believe that's what you are experiencing?
> 
> In Natural/Medium or High I can play with the manual iris all I want.


Ahhh. Yes. I've been trialing Dynamic a lot recently, particularly for HDR and LLDV Dolby Vision via a Vertex.

Found it greyed out in Med/High and it was the same when i went to check last night. Strange that only Dynamic does this. Maybe it is because it kicks out the most light and my thought on stoppering down and heat is a factor. I've never wanted to stopper down on anything but SDR, so my experience recently with Dynamic i drew a false conclusion that it was prohibited!

Very curious that Dynamic performs differently. I'd heard that the iris is capable of greater range for contrast in Dynamic and this may add weight to that. I've just recently got hold of the Powerlite filter which is optical glass and should correct for P3 colours and allow more light through than the inbuilt Epson one. 

I must say that Dynamic can achieve some impressive blacks, contrast and light output, though calibrating the P3 colours is a minor nightmare to get reasonable!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> Ahhh. Yes. I've been trialing Dynamic a lot recently, particularly for HDR and LLDV Dolby Vision via a Vertex.
> 
> Found it greyed out in Med/High and it was the same when i went to check last night. Strange that only Dynamic does this. Maybe it is because it kicks out the most light and my thought on stoppering down and heat is a factor. I've never wanted to stopper down on anything but SDR, so my experience recently with Dynamic i drew a false conclusion that it was prohibited!
> 
> Very curious that Dynamic performs differently. I'd heard that the iris is capable of greater range for contrast in Dynamic and this may add weight to that. I've just recently got hold of the Powerlite filter which is optical glass and should correct for P3 colours and allow more light through than the inbuilt Epson one.
> 
> I must say that Dynamic can achieve some impressive blacks, contrast and light output, though calibrating the P3 colours is a minor nightmare to get reasonable!


Ok, tell me more about this filter! I recall stumbling upon one months ago but it was only available in Europe and hard to track down how to buy it. Got a link for this filter?


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> Ok, tell me more about this filter! I recall stumbling upon one months ago but it was only available in Europe and hard to track down how to buy it. Got a link for this filter?


I mentioned it on the UK av forums in the Epson laser thread and Ricky from Kalibrate said he'd got an order of a few from Cinehome a while back and put them to one side. Dropped a PM and bought one. Delivered last week but I was ill. Brought it home yesterday and looked at it with the Epson. It is a glass lens which is circliped into a shiny metal housing. Looks well made. It push fits snugly over the whole lens ensemble (so the lens door is inside). There is a pinky-purple colour to the lens itself.

I've yet to get the calibration gear out and going away tonight for a week, but then i'll see how it performs in terms of colours and light loss. I'm hoping it'll tame Dynamic for HDR and should in theory, be better than the Cinema modes - My big question is can i keep it on for SDR. There's plenty of light to play with there, but can the colours be brought back to rec709 or is that outside the CMS range....though i do have an eecolor 3D LUT box too


----------



## Kieran

BlueMan Jones said:


> unless you have family members in the NBA


I resemble that remark! 
6'7" tall... terrible at b-ball though.


----------



## fredworld

Marc D Carra said:


> My 5050 will be here soon and I'm trying to figure out the best placement. My ceilings are only 7ft so I was thinking of sitting it in a square table about 4 feet in front of the main viewing position. The bottom of my screen is only about 18" from the floor with my center channel below angled slightly upwards towards the listening position. Since the 5050 vents from the front, this would vent away from the seating. Can you think of any downsides of doing this? I would run the cables under the flooring.
> View attachment 3190062





rekbones said:


> If placed 4' in front of your seating distance what's your throw distance/screen size? You will be seated way too far back for any kind of a cinematic field of view. Like watching a 65" TV from 12' away.


My HT ceiling where I have the PJ mounted is 7'+/- with14' throw distance and two rows of seats in 14'x18' room. The rear row is under the PJ. No issues and lamp changing is easy. I wouldn't want the PJ taking up valuable floor space and interferring with sound dispersion. Alternatively, I'd consider mounting the PJ on a rear wall shelf.


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## Marc D Carra

fredworld said:


> My HT ceiling where I have the PJ mounted is 7'+/- with14' throw distance and two rows of seats in 14'x18' room. The rear row is under the PJ. No issues and lamp changing is easy. I wouldn't want the PJ taking up valuable floor space and interferring with sound dispersion. Alternatively, I'd consider mounting the PJ on a rear wall shelf.


You are absolutely right. I didn't think that since my center channel will be under the screen, if I have a table between the listener position and the center, it won't be a good thing. I'll ceiling mount it. I took off the ceiling tiles and Im getting an electrician to do some cable management between the wooden beams. I will also remove the tile framing. Then I'll paint it all black!


----------



## eieio

Marc D Carra said:


> You are absolutely right. I didn't think that since my center channel will be under the screen, if I have a table between the listener position and the center, it won't be a good thing. I'll ceiling mount it. I took off the ceiling tiles and Im getting an electrician to do some cable management between the wooden beams. I will also remove the tile framing. Then I'll paint it all black!
> View attachment 3190226


@Marc D Carra:

may i ask why you need the dropped ceiling (and ceiling tiles) please? 

wouldn't that exposed wood from the upstairs' floor be perfectly good looking?


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## Marc D Carra

eieio said:


> @Marc D Carra:
> 
> may i ask why you need the dropped ceiling (and ceiling tiles) please?
> 
> wouldn't that exposed wood from the upstairs' floor be perfectly good looking?


Exactly! When I bought the house 2 years ago, they had a white drop ceiling. Last week I decided to take it down. It gave me another 9" of clearance. The wood looks great, with a bit of cleaning and electrical cable management. They I can mount my Atmos speakers much more easily, not to mention. The projector. And wood is easier to paint black than foam ceiling tiles.


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## fredworld

Marc D Carra said:


> Exactly! When I bought the house 2 years ago, they had a white drop ceiling. Last week I decided to take it down. It gave me another 9" of clearance. The wood looks great, with a bit of cleaning and electrical cable management. They I can mount my Atmos speakers much more easily, not to mention. The projector. And wood is easier to paint black than foam ceiling tiles.


By "cable management" do you mean conduit for running cables? Makes for much easier replacement AND troubleshooting a potentially bad HDMI/Fiberoptic cable.


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## eieio

Marc D Carra said:


> Exactly! When I bought the house 2 years ago, they had a white drop ceiling. Last week I decided to take it down. It gave me another 9" of clearance. The wood looks great, with a bit of cleaning and electrical cable management. They I can mount my Atmos speakers much more easily, not to mention. The projector.* And wood is easier to paint black than foam ceiling tiles.*


@Marc D Carra: i fully understand that you didn't come here to discuss your decor  however, i even like your existing wood color! it adds a little warmth to the overall look, while still being very dark, relatively non-reflective, and i can't imagine that it would contribute that much negatively to your projector/screen's performance. it's not as though you have a white ceiling! 

PS: my ceiling is white, since it is a living room with a screen/projector.


----------



## hms17B

Alaric said:


> Ahhh. Yes. I've been trialing Dynamic a lot recently, particularly for HDR and LLDV Dolby Vision via a Vertex.
> 
> Found it greyed out in Med/High and it was the same when i went to check last night. Strange that only Dynamic does this. Maybe it is because it kicks out the most light and my thought on stoppering down and heat is a factor. I've never wanted to stopper down on anything but SDR, so my experience recently with Dynamic i drew a false conclusion that it was prohibited!
> 
> Very curious that Dynamic performs differently. I'd heard that the iris is capable of greater range for contrast in Dynamic and this may add weight to that. I've just recently got hold of the Powerlite filter which is optical glass and should correct for P3 colours and allow more light through than the inbuilt Epson one.
> 
> I must say that Dynamic can achieve some impressive blacks, contrast and light output, though calibrating the P3 colours is a minor nightmare to get reasonable!


This is just a thought as I don't know all that's going on inside these things. On my old Sanyo, dynamic had much better black level than any other mode, but lousy color. Turns out there were iris settings in the secret service menu that limited the iris closure per picture mode. On the scale of the settings, dynamic mode was at 0 and normal mode was half way to the top, 0 being the greatest limit of iris shutdown. Cinema mode was about a third of the way up as I recall. Setting these all down to 0 made all have black level like dynamic but preserving their other attributes. Maybe Epsons have unreachable settings that are limiting some things more than we'd like.


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## Marc D Carra

eieio said:


> @Marc D Carra: i fully understand that you didn't come here to discuss your decor  however, i even like your existing wood color! it adds a little warmth to the overall look, while still being very dark, relatively non-reflective, and i can't imagine that it would contribute that much negatively to your projector/screen's performance. it's not as though you have a white ceiling!
> 
> PS: my ceiling is white, since it is a living room with a screen/projector.


Yeah, the more I look at the natural wood tones, the more I like it. I might just leave it like that after all! And like you said, it's no reflective and dark enough to pass for black when the lights are off.


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## Marc D Carra

fredworld said:


> By "cable management" do you mean conduit for running cables? Makes for much easier replacement AND troubleshooting a potentially bad HDMI/Fiberoptic cable.


Yes, cable conduits!


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## eieio

Marc D Carra said:


> Yeah, the more I look at the natural wood tones, the more I like it. I might just leave it like that after all! And like you said, it's no reflective and dark enough to pass for black when the lights are off.


@Marc D Carra: many years ago, when i was selecting paints for my home, i came across this paint from Europe that was said by many to be stunning when applied:



EUROLUX Interior Matte



some folks who are experts in this field told me that they've seen walls that were painted matte finish paint from this company and it was so incredibly rich looking, that they thought the client has used a suede wallpaper! instead, it was just the richness of the paint that was so beautiful, they said.

they do have a black matte, according to their site, and they have color samples. maybe you can order the smaller container to try out a small area as a test to see if it is to your liking?


----------



## biglen

eieio said:


> @Marc D Carra: many years ago, when i was selecting paints for my home, i came across this paint from Europe that was said by many to be stunning when applied:
> 
> 
> 
> EUROLUX Interior Matte
> 
> 
> 
> some folks who are experts in this field told me that they've seen walls that were painted matte finish paint from this company and it was so incredibly rich looking, that they thought the client has used a suede wallpaper! instead, it was just the richness of the paint that was so beautiful, they said.
> 
> they do have a black matte, according to their site, and they have color samples. maybe you can order the smaller container to try out a small area as a test to see if it is to your liking?


My movie room walls are painted with the Fine Paints of Europe flat black. The best part about it, is that if you do scuff it, the scuff wipes right off with a damp rag. It's not cheap though. I paid like $90 for what they call a Eurogallon, which is only .66 of a gallon. It's not chalky at all, like most flat paints when they dry. Here's the mix I got if anyone is interested. My local Benjamin Moore store carried it, and the owner told me all the home theater installers, use that flat black in their movie room builds.









Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## eieio

biglen said:


> My movie room walls are painted with the Fine Paints of Europe flat black. The best part about it, is that if you do scuff it, the scuff wipes right off with a damp rag. It's not cheap though. I paid like $90 for what they call a Eurogallon, which is only .66 of a gallon. It's not chalky at all, like most flat paints when they dry. Here's the mix I got if anyone is interested. My local Benjamin Moore store carried it, and the owner told me all the home theater installers, use that flat black in their movie room builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


@biglen: may i ask if you've see what the matte black looks when painted please?

i'm really curious about that comment i heard from a highly informed source that he initially really thought it could have been suede wallpaper!

just wondering if you've actually seen the matte version of your paint.

thanks.


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## biglen

eieio said:


> @biglen: may i ask if you've see what the matte black looks when painted please?
> 
> i'm really curious about that comment i heard from a highly informed source that he initially really thought it could have been suede wallpaper!
> 
> just wondering if you've actually seen the matte version of your paint.
> 
> thanks.


I have not seen the matte, sorry. I wouldn't use the matte in a movie room. It will put off a slight reflection. Their flat black is not a typical flat. Like I said, it's smooth when it dries, and not chalky at all. It almost looks like a matte finish, but it's not reflective. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Marc D Carra

Epson Canada finally shipped my 5050 refurbished unit today. I'll test it fully as soon as I get it. I hope I don't get a dud. It was a refurb and a good screen, or a new unit and a crap screen. I hope I made the right decision.


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## Marc D Carra

biglen said:


> I have not seen the matte, sorry. I wouldn't use the matte in a movie room. It will put off a slight reflection. Their flat black is not a typical flat. Like I said, it's smooth when it dries, and not chalky at all. It almost looks like a matte finish, but it's not reflective.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk





biglen said:


> My movie room walls are painted with the Fine Paints of Europe flat black. The best part about it, is that if you do scuff it, the scuff wipes right off with a damp rag. It's not cheap though. I paid like $90 for what they call a Eurogallon, which is only .66 of a gallon. It's not chalky at all, like most flat paints when they dry. Here's the mix I got if anyone is interested. My local Benjamin Moore store carried it, and the owner told me all the home theater installers, use that flat black in their movie room builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


This is perfect! I found a reseller close by
So I'll get some for the wall where my screen is going, and for the ceiling. I will post photos when it's all done!


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## fredworld

Marc D Carra said:


> This is perfect! I found a reseller close by
> So I'll get some for the wall where my screen is going, and for the ceiling. I will post photos when it's all done!


@Marc D Carra, in fear of sounding like the forum police, why not take that part of the discussion to the *Dedicated Home Theater Design and Construction Forum *so we can help keep the discussion on topic.


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## fredworld

Marc D Carra said:


> Epson Canada finally shipped my 5050 refurbished unit today. I'll test it fully as soon as I get it. I hope I don't get a dud. It was a refurb and a good screen, or a new unit and a crap screen. I hope I made the right decision.


I think I speak for many when I say that I wish you better luck than several others here, including myself, that you get a like-new refurb without the hassles. Out of the box good performance happens more than we suspect, I'm sure. Mostly, we only hear about the problems here. Best of luck.👍


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## Marc D Carra

fredworld said:


> I think I speak for many when I say that I wish you better luck than several others here, including myself, that you get a like-new refurb without the hassles. Out of the box good performance happens more than we suspect, I'm sure. Mostly, we only hear about the problems here. Best of luck.👍


Does Epson at least replace the lamp on the refurbished units they sell? The girl on the phone was totally clueless.


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## fredworld

Marc D Carra said:


> Does Epson at least replace the lamp on the refurbished units they sell? The girl on the phone was totally clueless.


I think I recall that there were 2 hours on the lamp that was on the refurb I was sent.


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## Luminated67

fredworld said:


> I think I recall that there were 2 hours on the lamp that was on the refurb I was sent.


Probably testing before sending out?


----------



## jaredmwright

Luminated67 said:


> Probably testing before sending out?


I bought a refurbished unit and the lamp had zero hours on it.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Luminated67

jaredmwright said:


> I bought a refurbished unit and the lamp had zero hours on it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I suppose it really depends of what it was returned for, if a scratch then replace the panel and ship out who knows.


----------



## rekbones

Marc D Carra said:


> Does Epson at least replace the lamp on the refurbished units they sell? The girl on the phone was totally clueless.


I think officially they state the lamp will have at least 80% life left. Mine had zero hours on the lamp counter but if you look at the service menu mine had 10 hours total on the unit with 2 lamp changes. The lamp change counter is only a reflection of how many time the lamp counter was reset so no clue if the lamp was actually replaced. Now if the main board was replaced I assume all these counters are reset to zero so in reality you still won't know how many hours were on the projector before it was replaced.


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## pottscb

eieio said:


> All: thank you all very much for your comments. they are helpful and educational for me. despite having owned and enjoyed my Epson 8700 for 11+ years, i've never encountered or known about this ECO flickering issue! can you imagine?
> 
> then, 2 weeks ago, i got my Epson 6050 and after the initial 1-2 hours of setting up on whatever the default mode was, either HIGH or MEDIUM, i changed it to ECO merely after the initial 1-2 hours without giving it much thought since i thought that if that's enough lumens for me, it will just give me longer bulb life!
> 
> after merely 2 weeks of using the 6050 (~57 hours of use), i saw flickering. posting what i discovered online here, the collective wisdom here informed me to run it on HIGH or MEDIUM to "season" the bulb's arc, in hopes of either reversing the damage done by the initial 57 hours' use, OR, at least limit the damage done.
> 
> So, i'm now running it at HIGH for at least the next 100 hours, if not more, and maybe, it might be ok to use it on MEDIUM thereafter?
> 
> btw, i wanted to see if there are *suggested websites to buy replacement ORIGINAL EPSON bulbs at a good discount please? * i am interested in buying replacement ORIGINAL EPSON bulb (ELPLP 89), meaning the entire thing is original, not just the inside bulb, but the housing, even the outer packaging is as if one were to buy it from Epson. my projector is installed upside down from the ceiling, and the ceiling height is high, so replacing a bulb is not fun. i've heard issues from just getting a replacement bulb with the same inside bulb, but a "compatible housing". i wouldn't want that. i'd prefer an original Epson part, which means the entire thing is Epson sourced, but a site might sell it at a discounted price compared with buying directly from Epson.
> 
> thank you all for your truly helpful replies. very much appreciated.


See links below, I’ve had good experience with Pureland for JVC lamps, 180 day return…they claim OEM but I’m not sure as they’re 1/3 the price of Epson (which makes the 6050 look like a better deal than before) 






Epson ELPLP89 Projector Lamps | ELPLP89 Bulbs | Pureland Supply


Pureland Supply stocks ELPLP89 Epson Projector Lamps with genuine original Osram bulb inside. Price: $134.60, Quantity in stock:162, Projector Model: ELPLP89, Lamp Id: V13H010L89. Free ground shipping and 180 day warranty.



www.purelandsupply.com










V13H010L89 | ELPLP89 Replacement Projector Lamp / Bulb | Projector Accessories | Accessories | Epson US


The genuine Epson ELPLP89 ultra high efficiency (UHE) projector lamp is designed to replace the original genuine Epson projector lamp. This projector lamp is user-replaceable; refer to your projector's manual for installation instructions for this replacement lamp.




epson.com


----------



## RVD26

Is it normal to have a contrast setting of 0 after running the Spears and Munsil calibration disc? Setting it to 0 was the only way to see the concentric boxes in the clipping test on the disc.


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> Is it normal to have a contrast setting of 0 after running the Spears and Munsil calibration disc? Setting it to 0 was the only way to see the concentric boxes in the clipping test on the disc.


Read/understand the Article on *Setting the Contrast Control*. Regarding the HDR Contrast patterns, "You should not use them to set the Contrast control."


----------



## Marc D Carra

fredworld said:


> I think I speak for many when I say that I wish you better luck than several others here, including myself, that you get a like-new refurb hassles. Out of the box good performance happens more than we suspect, I'm sure. Mostly, we only hear about the problems here. Best of luck.👍


I must admit I'm having second thoughts about choosing the 5050 refurb. For the price of about $2300US, do you think this was a wise choice? For a completely dark room, are there better options in the same price range that will give me a better image for UHD discs and 3d bluray viewing?


----------



## fredworld

Marc D Carra said:


> I must admit I'm having second thoughts about choosing the 5050 refurb. For the price of about $2300US, do you think this was a wise choice? For a completely dark room, are there better options in the same price range that will give me a better image for UHD discs and 3d bluray viewing?


I'm sorry, I'm not fully qualified to answer those questions. My only other experience with PJs was my Sharp XV12000 that I used for 15 years and an Ampro CRT PJ that I used for 10 years before that. Prior to choosing the 5050 I was able to compare it, side by side, to a Sony comparably priced model in June 2019 but decided on the Epson for it's features. Aside from an issue with a mildly distracting dust blob (that only I can notice) and judder, I'm happy with my black level detail, clarity, color and overall impact in my light controlled, dark colored room and Stewart screen. If given the choice again, for circa $3k, I'd still buy it. If I had up to $7k to spend, I'd seriously look at JVC's models.


----------



## Marc D Carra

fredworld said:


> I'm sorry, I'm not fully qualified to answer those questions. My only other experience with PJs was my Sharp XV12000 that I used for 15 years and an Ampro CRT PJ that I used for 10 years before that. Prior to choosing the 5050 I was able to compare it, side by side, to a Sony comparably priced model in June 2019 but decided on the Epson for it's features. Aside from an issue with a mildly distracting dust blob (that only I can notice) and judder, I'm happy with my black level detail, clarity, color and overall impact in my light controlled, dark colored room and Stewart screen. If given the choice again, for circa $3k, I'd still buy it. If I had up to $7k to spend, I'd seriously look at JVC's models.


Thanks for your thoughts on this. I considered a JVC NX5 but it's 2 1/2 times the cost here in Canada. I'm also thinking that since I watch alot of 3D, the extra brightness of the Epson might be one of the few advantages over the JVC.


----------



## eieio

pottscb said:


> See links below, I’ve had good experience with Pureland for JVC lamps, 180 day return…they claim OEM but I’m not sure as they’re 1/3 the price of Epson (which makes the 6050 look like a better deal than before)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson ELPLP89 Projector Lamps | ELPLP89 Bulbs | Pureland Supply
> 
> 
> Pureland Supply stocks ELPLP89 Epson Projector Lamps with genuine original Osram bulb inside. Price: $134.60, Quantity in stock:162, Projector Model: ELPLP89, Lamp Id: V13H010L89. Free ground shipping and 180 day warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> www.purelandsupply.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> V13H010L89 | ELPLP89 Replacement Projector Lamp / Bulb | Projector Accessories | Accessories | Epson US
> 
> 
> The genuine Epson ELPLP89 ultra high efficiency (UHE) projector lamp is designed to replace the original genuine Epson projector lamp. This projector lamp is user-replaceable; refer to your projector's manual for installation instructions for this replacement lamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> epson.com


@pottscb: thanks for the link and heads up to that bulb supplier.

i looked on their site carefully and since they merely said the same BULB, it would naturally imply that the case around the bulb is an after market case. so they found a case they wanted to use and then simply put the correct name brand bulb inside, rather than even the bulb is a non-name brand bulb.

in my case, i'm looking for an Epson bulb completely, i.e. the box, the casing of the bulb, and the bulb - all, as though one were to buy it directly from Epson, but, some places, so i hear, do discount it a bit compared with the full price of $330 from Epson.

thank you.


----------



## jaredmwright

Marc D Carra said:


> I must admit I'm having second thoughts about choosing the 5050 refurb. For the price of about $2300US, do you think this was a wise choice? For a completely dark room, are there better options in the same price range that will give me a better image for UHD discs and 3d bluray viewing?


I don't think there any any better options in this price range. With the latest firmware, this projector is pretty awesome. It is only missing DTM and for the price you paid, there is nothing that can compete for the lumens and contrast levels. If your room is light treated, it really will pop and I think you will be very happy. I would buy mine again in an instant. I upgraded from a 5030ub to 6050ub and even that step upgrade was substantial. I would love to upgrade to a projector with DTM, Dolby Vision and laser instead of bulb, but I think that will inflate the price and put it in the 5-7k price range. I plan to keep mine until those prices come down and it is more compelling. Very happy to stay with the Epson for a while. Make sure you calibrate and don't settle, spend the time to dial it in and get it optimized.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## eieio

jaredmwright said:


> I don't think there any any better options in this price range. With the latest firmware, this projector is pretty awesome. It is only missing DTM and for the price you paid, there is nothing that can compete for the lumens and contrast levels. If your room is light treated, it really will pop and I think you will be very happy. I would buy mine again in an instant. I upgraded from a 5030ub to 6050ub and even that step upgrade was substantial. I would love to upgrade to a projector with DTM, Dolby Vision and laser instead of bulb, but I think that will inflate the price and put it in the 5-7k price range. I plan to keep mine until those prices come down and it is more compelling. Very happy to stay with the Epson for a while. Make sure you calibrate and don't settle, spend the time to dial it in and get it optimized.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


@jaredmwright: may i please ask if you are using your 6050 on HIGH or MEDIUM or ECO mode please?

i'm a new 6050 owner (4 weeks!) and i upgraded from an 11-year old Epson 8700 to the 6050.

started with the ECO mode (after the first 1-2 hours on whatever its default was during set up by the installer) and at 57 hours of use, i had flickering. did some reading, and found out that it is UNwise to use these projectors on ECO mode due to the possibility of flickering!

since 57 hours, for the next week or so, i've been using it strictly on HIGH mode, and am enjoying it immensely! (as a by product to try to "save" the bulb which flickered a week ago as people tell me that the flicker might be fixed if one uses it on HIGH for the next 100 hours)

so...i'm interested in learning what mode you've been using your 6050 on so i can gain some experience from others' experiences.

thanks.


----------



## fredworld

pottscb said:


> See links below, I’ve had good experience with Pureland for JVC lamps, 180 day return…they claim OEM but I’m not sure as they’re 1/3 the price of Epson (which makes the 6050 look like a better deal than before)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson ELPLP89 Projector Lamps | ELPLP89 Bulbs | Pureland Supply
> 
> 
> Pureland Supply stocks ELPLP89 Epson Projector Lamps with genuine original Osram bulb inside. Price: $134.60, Quantity in stock:162, Projector Model: ELPLP89, Lamp Id: V13H010L89. Free ground shipping and 180 day warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> www.purelandsupply.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> V13H010L89 | ELPLP89 Replacement Projector Lamp / Bulb | Projector Accessories | Accessories | Epson US
> 
> 
> The genuine Epson ELPLP89 ultra high efficiency (UHE) projector lamp is designed to replace the original genuine Epson projector lamp. This projector lamp is user-replaceable; refer to your projector's manual for installation instructions for this replacement lamp.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> epson.com





eieio said:


> @pottscb: thanks for the link and heads up to that bulb supplier.
> 
> i looked on their site carefully and since they merely said the same BULB, it would naturally imply that the case around the bulb is an after market case. so they found a case they wanted to use and then simply put the correct name brand bulb inside, rather than even the bulb is a non-name brand bulb.
> 
> in my case, i'm looking for an Epson bulb completely, i.e. the box, the casing of the bulb, and the bulb - all, as though one were to buy it directly from Epson, but, some places, so i hear, do discount it a bit compared with the full price of $330 from Epson.
> 
> thank you.


I can vouch for Pureland's sincerity. I found that their customer service ais very good when I was attempting to replace my lamp while Epson was out of stock. See *this post* for the story.


----------



## jaredmwright

eieio said:


> @jaredmwright: may i please ask if you are using your 6050 on HIGH or MEDIUM or ECO mode please?
> 
> i'm a new 6050 owner (4 weeks!) and i upgraded from an 11-year old Epson 8700 to the 6050.
> 
> started with the ECO mode (after the first 1-2 hours on whatever its default was during set up by the installer) and at 57 hours of use, i had flickering. did some reading, and found out that it is UNwise to use these projectors on ECO mode due to the possibility of flickering!
> 
> since 57 hours, for the next week or so, i've been using it strictly on HIGH mode, and am enjoying it immensely! (as a by product to try to "save" the bulb which flickered a week ago as people tell me that the flicker might be fixed if one uses it on HIGH for the next 100 hours)
> 
> so...i'm interested in learning what mode you've been using your 6050 on so i can gain some experience from others' experiences.
> 
> thanks.


I have used mine on all three modes at various times. If I run on Eco I also sometimes get a flicker and so I settled on Medium. High is a little bright and I don't like the fan noise. Medium seems to be the sweet spot with no flicker and just the right look for me. I project onto a 175" Carl screen in a light controlled room from about 19' feet distance. Let me know if you have any other questions, happy to answer if I can.

I use an Nvidia Shield, TiVo and Blu-ray for sources with a Denon 13.2 receiver with all channels active.

Glad you are enjoying it, recommend the Spears and Munsil to calibrate if you aren't getting it done professionally. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Marc D Carra

jaredmwright said:


> I have used mine on all three modes at various times. If I run on Eco I also sometimes get a flicker and so I settled on Medium. High is a little bright and I don't like the fan noise. Medium seems to be the sweet spot with no flicker and just the right look for me. I project onto a 175" Carl screen in a light controlled room from about 19' feet distance. Let me know if you have any other questions, happy to answer if I can.
> 
> I use an Nvidia Shield, TiVo and Blu-ray for sources with a Denon 13.2 receiver with all channels active.
> 
> Glad you are enjoying it, recommend the Spears and Munsil to calibrate if you aren't getting it done professionally.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Wow, that's a huge screen !!! I was thinking a Silver ticket 138" scope ratio screen and was worried it would not be bright enough. I have a 24x 16 room so I have alot of throw distance but my ceiling is a bit less that 7 feet in the basement so I figured a scope ratio screen might be better. More width to accommodate for less height.


----------



## jaredmwright

Marc D Carra said:


> Wow, that's a huge screen !!! I was thinking a Silver ticket 138" scope ratio screen and was worried it would not be bright enough.


Yeah, you won't have an issue, this thing is a light cannon.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

jaredmwright said:


> I don't think there any any better options in this price range. With the latest firmware, this projector is pretty awesome. It is only missing DTM and for the price you paid, there is nothing that can compete for the lumens and contrast levels. If your room is light treated, it really will pop and I think you will be very happy. I would buy mine again in an instant. I upgraded from a 5030ub to 6050ub and even that step upgrade was substantial. I would love to upgrade to a projector with DTM, Dolby Vision and laser instead of bulb, but I think that will inflate the price and put it in the 5-7k price range. I plan to keep mine until those prices come down and it is more compelling. Very happy to stay with the Epson for a while. Make sure you calibrate and don't settle, spend the time to dial it in and get it optimized.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Just use a 2nd hand PC with a good GPU to run MadVR, and then you will have great DTM. I'm using MadVR with my 5050 for DTM, and the results are excellent. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

eieio said:


> @pottscb: thanks for the link and heads up to that bulb supplier.
> 
> i looked on their site carefully and since they merely said the same BULB, it would naturally imply that the case around the bulb is an after market case. so they found a case they wanted to use and then simply put the correct name brand bulb inside, rather than even the bulb is a non-name brand bulb.
> 
> in my case, i'm looking for an Epson bulb completely, i.e. the box, the casing of the bulb, and the bulb - all, as though one were to buy it directly from Epson, but, some places, so i hear, do discount it a bit compared with the full price of $330 from Epson.
> 
> thank you.


I think these are OEM bulbs and case. 



https://www.jaspertronics.com/products/elplp89-om



Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> Just use a 2nd hand PC with a good GPU to run MadVR, and then you will have great DTM. I'm using MadVR with my 5050 for DTM, and the results are excellent.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I would but it won't work for streaming content through Nvidia Shield to my knowledge. If it can do passthrough then I will look into it.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

jaredmwright said:


> I would but it won't work for streaming content through Nvidia Shield to my knowledge. If it can do passthrough then I will look into it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Yes, that's the only downside. 90% of what I watch in my movie room, are rips, so it works good for my needs. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

fredworld said:


> Glad to help. My apologies if the following is already obvious to you but be sure to level equally across the front back and sides. 👍 ⚖ Level the PJ with it's feet on the now level shelf.
> Then you should be able to square your image to the screen via Lens Shift with zero Keystone.


Thanks again for this advice. I finally got around to leveling my shelf tonight and it only took me about 10 minutes of fiddling to get the image nearly perfectly square after putting the projector up again. My focus is also pretty much uniform across the screen. Thanks again for the advice I'd seriously never considered washers to level the shelf. Still had to raise the feet a smidge on one side to square it, but not nearly as much as before.


----------



## RVD26

fredworld said:


> Read/understand the Article on *Setting the Contrast Control*. Regarding the HDR Contrast patterns, "You should not use them to set the Contrast control."


I read the part already about not setting contrast in HDR. I'm referring to SDR. I'm still having to turn contrast all the way down to 0 to get the concentric boxes in the test pattern.


----------



## Luminated67

RVD26 said:


> I read the part already about not setting contrast in HDR. I'm referring to SDR. I'm still having to turn contrast all the way down to 0 to get the concentric boxes in the test pattern.


Whats your BluRay player, the reason I ask is I found I had to set mine lower than the factory 50 on contrast to not have it clipping but in the normal contrast test. When my pro calibrator came he said you simply can’t use the S&M disc for this and connected his Lumagen up and bingo contrast it was perfect when set at the 50 again.


----------



## Enchy

RVD26 said:


> I read the part already about not setting contrast in HDR. I'm referring to SDR. I'm still having to turn contrast all the way down to 0 to get the concentric boxes in the test pattern.


"This pattern is designed to calibrate the display to show all of the levels up to peak white (1019). If you only want to calibrate up to reference white (or your display or player won’t reproduce values above reference white), you can adjust so all the bars above level 939 disappear. If you want to calibrate to some middle level, pick a bar somewhere between 940 and 1018 and calibrate so that bar is visible but the bar above it is not."

I have the same player as you and I had to calibrate to 939 because of this same problem with the test pattern. I've been meaning to take a look at it through either my Xbox or PS5 since those both play UHDBDs but I haven't gotten around to it.


----------



## fredworld

RVD26 said:


> I read the part already about not setting contrast in HDR. I'm referring to SDR. I'm still having to turn contrast all the way down to 0 to get the concentric boxes in the test pattern.


Are you following the section titled *Using the SDR Contrast Pattern *in that link*? * It took me some experimenting before settling on the best Color Mode, Gamma and Iris setting and I ended up with a Contrast setting much higher than 0. Depending on whether I use my Panasonic 820 or Sony 800M2, for which I have different Memories saved because my Sony actually displays more of the brightest Contrast bars, my Contrast is in the low 20's or high teens. But remember, my screen is probably one of the smaller (if not the smallest) in this discussion thread AND the disc isn't designed for projectors, so there can be a range of differences in settings among our setups.


----------



## Decalman77

Just bought the 5050UB, is there anyway to search this thread incase a question I have has already been answered here?

Edit : nevermind figured it out =D


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> Are you following the section titled *Using the SDR Contrast Pattern *in that link*? * It took me some experimenting before settling on the best Color Mode, Gamma and Iris setting and I ended up with a Contrast setting much higher than 0. Depending on whether I use my Panasonic 820 or Sony 800M2, for which I have different Memories saved because my Sony actually displays more of the brightest Contrast bars, my Contrast is in the low 20's or high teens. But remember, my screen is probably one of the smaller (if not the smallest) in this discussion thread AND the disc isn't designed for projectors, so there can be a range of differences in settings among our setups.


For SDR I set contrast down in the 30s and got most of the bars with a Panasonic 420. I got better on the clipping patterns by also setting color down to about the same. Somewhere in one of the S&M articles it said something about doing that but didn't elaborate. I'm not seeing much in the clipping patterns on the contrast screen, but do in the dedicated clipping screen. Getting the best on one pattern, though, can get worse on another. Since some of us are doing this by eye, I guess the final test is how it looks on actual program material, not just on the S&M disc. I'm not finalized on that yet.


----------



## pottscb

fredworld said:


> Are you following the section titled *Using the SDR Contrast Pattern *in that link*? * It took me some experimenting before settling on the best Color Mode, Gamma and Iris setting and I ended up with a Contrast setting much higher than 0. Depending on whether I use my Panasonic 820 or Sony 800M2, for which I have different Memories saved because my Sony actually displays more of the brightest Contrast bars, my Contrast is in the low 20's or high teens. But remember, my screen is probably one of the smaller (if not the smallest) in this discussion thread AND the disc isn't designed for projectors, so there can be a range of differences in settings among our setups.


Hello all, I’m considering this pj against the JVC and it looks like the main issue was a lack of a working DTM solution. The lumagen/MadVR are extremely pricey, they Panny 820 only works with discs (and maybe the few apps it supports-not Disney/Marvel/Pixar) and HDFury only work for DV. Is this the extent of the it? If so looks like the industry is sort of waiting on a DTM box under a grand, hopefully far less. This is a pretty big feather in JVCs cap, and theirs was released by FW. Update a 18 mo. after projector release…looks like others in the industry with far bigger research budgets could implement in streaming boxes/BD players (Apple, Sony, Panny, Roku)


----------



## fredworld

hms17B said:


> For SDR I set contrast down in the 30s and got most of the bars with a Panasonic 420. I got better on the clipping patterns by also setting color down to about the same. Somewhere in one of the S&M articles it said something about doing that but didn't elaborate. I'm not seeing much in the clipping patterns on the contrast screen, but do in the dedicated clipping screen. Getting the best on one pattern, though, can get worse on another. Since some of us are doing this by eye, I guess the final test is how it looks on actual program material, not just on the S&M disc. I'm not finalized on that yet.


Agreed. The process is an iterative one. What you do in one setting affects another. Then go back, readjust, repeat and eventually setting an acceptable compromise. The clipping pattern, particularly the boxes, are difficult but I don't stress them. I'm sure a pro-cal can narrow it all down more than very respectably. For now, I use two memory settings, one for my Panasonic and another for the Sony, that works for all content but for the rare occasional notch up or down in black level. I found that the Panasonic's HDR Slider is helpful. Having said that, I do have one other memory setting for Laser Disc based on Joe Kane's disc.


----------



## PixelPusher15

pottscb said:


> Hello all, I’m considering this pj against the JVC and it looks like the main issue was a lack of a working DTM solution. The lumagen/MadVR are extremely pricey, they Panny 820 only works with discs (and maybe the few apps it supports-not Disney/Marvel/Pixar) and HDFury only work for DV. Is this the extent of the it? If so looks like the industry is sort of waiting on a DTM box under a grand, hopefully far less. This is a pretty big feather in JVCs cap, and theirs was released by FW. Update a 18 mo. after projector release…looks like others in the industry with far bigger research budgets could implement in streaming boxes/BD players (Apple, Sony, Panny, Roku)


You pretty much got the lay of the land with one caveat. Someone has made an app that will take an HDMI capture card and feed it to MadVR. It only works with the older versions because Madshi doesn't want others to make a competing commercial product out of MadVR. Here's the thread for VideoProcessor: VideoProcessor 

It's a bit complicated but some seem to be having a lot of success with it. I have kicked around the idea of building a HTPC for it and you could theoretically have one done for under a grand. But to get 4K HDR @ 60hz you need a $500 capture card. 

I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for a streaming box to add DTM to it. TVs are so in the majority that I'd bet that none of the streaming manufacturers even test against a projector. And since TVs are just becoming better and better at handling HDR by themselves I don't see them doing much on the device side for DTM of standard HDR10 content. I hope I'm wrong but I don't think I am. I believe the under $1k DTM box is our biggest hope. Maybe @HDfury can help us out with that at some point.


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> Having said that, I do have one other memory setting for Laser Disc based on Joe Kane's disc.


Wow. First I've heard of LD in a LOOOONG time. I still have an old Pioneer LD player (504 something model?) in a box in the attic. Every now and then on a rainy day I think about breaking it out and seeing if it still works. Not many discs in the LD collection though, and all of them are available to me digitally somewhere. Which LDs do you still watch?


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> Wow. First I've heard of LD in a LOOOONG time. I still have an old Pioneer LD player (504 something model?) in a box in the attic. Every now and then on a rainy day I think about breaking it out and seeing if it still works. Not many discs in the LD collection though, and all of them are available to me digitally somewhere. Which LDs do you still watch?


Pm sent.


----------



## RVD26

Luminated67 said:


> Whats your BluRay player, the reason I ask is I found I had to set mine lower than the factory 50 on contrast to not have it clipping but in the normal contrast test. When my pro calibrator came he said you simply can’t use the S&M disc for this and connected his Lumagen up and bingo contrast it was perfect when set at the 50 again.


I have the Sony UBP-X700


----------



## Kieran

Luminated67 said:


> Whats your BluRay player, the reason I ask is I found I had to set mine lower than the factory 50 on contrast to not have it clipping but in the normal contrast test. When my pro calibrator came he said you simply can’t use the S&M disc for this and connected his Lumagen up and bingo contrast it was perfect when set at the 50 again.


I wonder if @sspears might be able to comment on this.... Stacey, thoughts?


----------



## DLCPhoto

Asking for a friend:

How does one configure the Epson 6050ub for a straight Gamma (2.2, 2.4, etc.). He'll be using it with a madVR Envy which will handle the tone-mapping, and it isn't clear how to do set this in the Epson. There is apparently a Custom Gamma option, but there doesn't seem to be the usual labels for 2.2, 2.4, 2.6 and so forth. He is not local to me, so I can't readily see what he's seeing, and the manual doesn't provide sufficient detail to sort this out.

I've seen suggestions that the default for the Custom Gamma, without applying any addition tweaks, is 2.2, but I'd like to confirm one way or the other. He can then set the Envy to map to whatever Gamma he is in the Epson, so it should all work fine.

Thanks!


----------



## Kieran

Marc D Carra said:


> I must admit I'm having second thoughts about choosing the 5050 refurb. For the price of about $2300US, do you think this was a wise choice? For a completely dark room, are there better options in the same price range that will give me a better image for UHD discs and 3d bluray viewing?


As has been said in this and many other forums, there's virtually nothing else in the <$3,000USD range that can compete with this projector. You paid $2300; if the refurb is not working out for you, you could buy a new one and still feel good about my first statement, assuming it's in your budget.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> You pretty much got the lay of the land with one caveat. Someone has made an app that will take an HDMI capture card and feed it to MadVR. It only works with the older versions because Madshi doesn't want others to make a competing commercial product out of MadVR. Here's the thread for VideoProcessor: VideoProcessor
> 
> It's a bit complicated but some seem to be having a lot of success with it. I have kicked around the idea of building a HTPC for it and you could theoretically have one done for under a grand. But to get 4K HDR @ 60hz you need a $500 capture card.
> 
> I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for a streaming box to add DTM to it. TVs are so in the majority that I'd bet that none of the streaming manufacturers even test against a projector. And since TVs are just becoming better and better at handling HDR by themselves I don't see them doing much on the device side for DTM of standard HDR10 content. I hope I'm wrong but I don't think I am. I believe the under $1k DTM box is our biggest hope. Maybe @HDfury can help us out with that at some point.





> *Limitations (of Video Processor)*
> VP can only process what can be captured. You'll need an HDCP free source.


I can't think of anything I watch that is both HDR and HDCP-free.


----------



## fredworld

DLCPhoto said:


> Asking for a friend:
> 
> How does one configure the Epson 6050ub for a straight Gamma (2.2, 2.4, etc.). He'll be using it with a madVR Envy which will handle the tone-mapping, and it isn't clear how to do set this in the Epson. There is apparently a Custom Gamma option, but there doesn't seem to be the usual labels for 2.2, 2.4, 2.6 and so forth. He is not local to me, so I can't readily see what he's seeing, and the manual doesn't provide sufficient detail to sort this out.
> 
> I've seen suggestions that the default for the Custom Gamma, without applying any addition tweaks, is 2.2, but I'd like to confirm one way or the other. He can then set the Envy to map to whatever Gamma he is in the Epson, so it should all work fine.
> 
> Thanks!


I'm not 100% sure, but maybe *this post* will help.


----------



## Luminated67

Kieran said:


> I wonder if @sspears might be able to comment on this.... Stacey, thoughts?


Its something I was told, the disc is geared for TVs rather than projectors. When the guy calibrating mine hooked up his Lumagen it was spot on the factory settings for both brightness and contrast, he said on the Epson he has seldom every had to move either of these and even then only by a point or two.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> I can't think of anything I watch that is both HDR and HDCP-free.


That's legal writing for "buy a device that strips out HDCP" like an HDFury or one of the many HDMI splitters on Amazon.


----------



## Jimmy2Shoes

DLCPhoto said:


> Asking for a friend:
> 
> How does one configure the Epson 6050ub for a straight Gamma (2.2, 2.4, etc.). He'll be using it with a madVR Envy which will handle the tone-mapping, and it isn't clear how to do set this in the Epson. There is apparently a Custom Gamma option, but there doesn't seem to be the usual labels for 2.2, 2.4, 2.6 and so forth. He is not local to me, so I can't readily see what he's seeing, and the manual doesn't provide sufficient detail to sort this out.
> 
> I've seen suggestions that the default for the Custom Gamma, without applying any addition tweaks, is 2.2, but I'd like to confirm one way or the other. He can then set the Envy to map to whatever Gamma he is in the Epson, so it should all work fine.
> 
> Thanks!


Hey Buddy,

From my own research in calibration, I found -2 in the Gamma preset to track 2.4 pretty well. I have not tried to calibrate to 2.2 but I would think 0 Gamma would be the close to it. Using the Custom Gamma without a probe is like finding a needle in a haystack

IMHO I think that your friend would really benefit from getting a I-Display Pro and ColorSpace HTL. With these two tools he will be able to do some 3D LUT uploads that would work very nicely with the Envy. I can't imagine been able to afford a Envy and not use this feature  

Jim


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> That's legal writing for "buy a device that strips out HDCP" like an HDFury or one of the many HDMI splitters on Amazon.


I guess I forgot that HDFurys and similar devices do that. I was thinking only torrented and other similarly downloaded content would be HDCP-free.


----------



## DLCPhoto

fredworld said:


> I'm not 100% sure, but maybe *this post* will help.


Thanks for this. It seems odd that Epson doesn't provide a simple way of configuring a known Gamma, without requiring some form of measurement if not formal calibration. But this at least provides a reasonable basis for him to proceed for now.


----------



## DLCPhoto

Jimmy2Shoes said:


> Hey Buddy,
> 
> From my own research in calibration, I found -2 in the Gamma preset to track 2.4 pretty well. I have not tried to calibrate to 2.2 but I would think 0 Gamma would be the close to it. Using the Custom Gamma without a probe is like finding a needle in a haystack
> 
> IMHO I think that your friend would really benefit from getting a I-Display Pro and ColorSpace HTL. With these two tools he will be able to do some 3D LUT uploads that would work very nicely with the Envy. I can't imagine been able to afford a Envy and not use this feature
> 
> Jim


Thanks. From searching this thread, I had the same impression: -2 would be around 2.4, while 0 (or possibly +1) would be around 2.2. It's a shame the user has to do some guessing here, but at least this will give him something to go on.

And I do think his plan is to get a formal calibration down the road, as you suggest, but I'm trying to give him some reasonably accurate options until that happens.


----------



## Luminated67

Mine was calibrated to -1 gamma.


----------



## DLCPhoto

Luminated67 said:


> Mine was calibrated to -1 gamma.


Thanks for the reply, but I'm not sure precisely what you're saying. Could you clarify or elaborate? What is the effective Gamma when yours is set to -1? Or are you saying that you used a light meter to make actual measurements?

Thanks.


----------



## Luminated67

DLCPhoto said:


> Thanks for the reply, but I'm not sure precisely what you're saying. Could you clarify or elaborate? What is the effective Gamma when yours is set to -1? Or are you saying that you used a light meter to make actual measurements?
> 
> Thanks.


I didn’t do the calibration it was a fellow called Gordon here in the UK but I believe it’s 2.2.


----------



## DLCPhoto

Luminated67 said:


> I didn’t do the calibration it was a fellow called Gordon here in the UK but I believe it’s 2.2.


Thanks - so after calibration, using -1, you had (probably) Gamma 2.2.

I'm still hoping to find out what Gamma is present (theoretically at least) with Custom Gamma at 0, or any of the other options +/- 1 and 2, without formal calibration. It still seems odd that they don't quantify this as other Projectors do - I looked at an Epson manual for a relatively recent projector (I forget which), and the menu provided 2.2, 2.4 Gamma options, so was hoping for the same with the 6050ub. But for whatever reason, it doesn't seem to be set up that way.


----------



## PixelPusher15

DLCPhoto said:


> Thanks - so after calibration, using -1, you had (probably) Gamma 2.2.
> 
> I'm still hoping to find out what Gamma is present (theoretically at least) with Custom Gamma at 0, or any of the other options +/- 1 and 2, without formal calibration. It still seems odd that they don't quantify this as other Projectors do - I looked at an Epson manual for a relatively recent projector (I forget which), and the menu provided 2.2, 2.4 Gamma options, so was hoping for the same with the 6050ub. But for whatever reason, it doesn't seem to be set up that way.








Epson EH-TW9100 3D LCD Projector Review


Epson's EH-TW9100 LCD projector delivers bright, accurate video, but we found some motion & panel convergence issues. Here's our review.




www.hdtvtest.co.uk













Once upon a time they did. This is the NA 5020UB I believe. Going off of a Projector Reviews review it looks like the default back then was 2.0

Also going off a Projector Reviews review of the 5050, it looks like the default gamma is around 2.1: _"The default gamma (0) was a little on the bright side at a 2.08 average. With my target set for 2.4 I lowered gamma to -2. After the 2-point and 8-point calibration the gamma curve was a super linear 2.4."_


----------



## DLCPhoto

PixelPusher15 said:


> Epson EH-TW9100 3D LCD Projector Review
> 
> 
> Epson's EH-TW9100 LCD projector delivers bright, accurate video, but we found some motion & panel convergence issues. Here's our review.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.hdtvtest.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 3192593
> 
> 
> Once upon a time they did. This is the NA 5020UB I believe. Going off of a Projector Reviews review it looks like the default back then was 2.0
> 
> Also going off a Projector Reviews review of the 5050, it looks like the default gamma is around 2.1: _"The default gamma (0) was a little on the bright side at a 2.08 average. With my target set for 2.4 I lowered gamma to -2. After the 2-point and 8-point calibration the gamma curve was a super linear 2.4."_


Yup - that's the graphic I came across.

I appreciate this, and the other replies. It gives me enough to go on to get him set up reasonably well, and he can follow up with a formal calibration down the road to take full advantage of the 3D LUT in the Envy.


----------



## Northern_Lights

I posted this 11 days ago and I think it got lost in an existing, ongoing discussion. If I don't get any answers this time, I won't clog up the thread with it further:

Has anyone figured out a way to disable the subtle (but not really all that subtle) motion-smoothing that occurs whenever the 5050 is getting a 24hz signal? The seemingly undefeatable soap opera effect? No, I am NOT talking about the actual frame interpolation feature that's only available with a 1080p signal. I'm talking about the automatic motion smoothing applied to 4k, 24fps content in the 5050.

The only way I've figured to eliminate this motion smoothing is to send 24hz content inside of a 60hz "package." There are settings to toggle this off and on in my Panny 420, Series X, and Fire stick 4k. However, when sending 24hz content in a 60hz package like this, I get 4k/HDR/10-bit/4:2:0. When sending in a 'native' 24hz package, I get 4k/HDR/10-bit/4:4:4. 

Should 10-bit 4:2:0 be enough for playing 4k blu rays? Or am I missing something by spending the bandwidth on a 60hz package instead of spending it on 4:4:4?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Northern_Lights said:


> I posted this 11 days ago and I think it got lost in an existing, ongoing discussion. If I don't get any answers this time, I won't clog up the thread with it further:
> 
> Has anyone figured out a way to disable the subtle (but not really all that subtle) motion-smoothing that occurs whenever the 5050 is getting a 24hz signal? The seemingly undefeatable soap opera effect? No, I am NOT talking about the actual frame interpolation feature that's only available with a 1080p signal. I'm talking about the automatic motion smoothing applied to 4k, 24fps content in the 5050.
> 
> The only way I've figured to eliminate this motion smoothing is to send 24hz content inside of a 60hz "package." There are settings to toggle this off and on in my Panny 420, Series X, and Fire stick 4k. However, when sending 24hz content in a 60hz package like this, I get 4k/HDR/10-bit/4:2:0. When sending in a 'native' 24hz package, I get 4k/HDR/10-bit/4:4:4.
> 
> Should 10-bit 4:2:0 be enough for playing 4k blu rays? Or am I missing something by spending the bandwidth on a 60hz package instead of spending it on 4:4:4?


I skipped over it since I don't really notice the same thing going on. 

What about your XMC-2? Does that thing have any video processing going on?


----------



## Northern_Lights

PixelPusher15 said:


> I skipped over it since I don't really notice the same thing going on.
> 
> What about your XMC-2? Does that thing have any video processing going on?


Nope, it's not the XMC-2. I've experienced the exact same using a Pioneer 801 receiver. The motion-smoothing applied to 24fps content is is fairly well known regarding this projector, though I haven't seen it discussed in the thred recently. If you find and toggle the setting related to "allow 24fps" in your Panny 420 UHD player, I believe you'll see the effect I'm talking about.


----------



## Marc D Carra

So my 5050 refurb arrived and I've been testing it all night. The carpet hasn't t been put in yet, and im projecting on a wall with a window😅. Just trying to get an idea of screen size. I haven't removed the white metal tile tracks from the ceiling but other than those reflections, my initial impressions are great!! Im just using cinema bright and haven't touched any settings yet. The projector is about 20 feet back and im getting about a 150" scope aspect on the wall. The contrast and blacks are impressive even for just a grey wall. Thinking of going grey AT screen🤔


----------



## ejhuzy

Does the 6050 support CIH anamorphic lens? From the manual it seems so, but the two modes listed are only vaguely described. I need a V-STRETCH mode at the very least. A H-SQUEEZE mode would be a bonus. Is that was the two anamorphic modes do on the 6050? 

And from reading the manuals it seems that the 5050 doesn't support these two modes. Can someone confirm or disprove that?

Thank you.


----------



## DaGamePimp

ejhuzy said:


> Does the 6050 support CIH anamorphic lens? From the manual it seems so, but the two modes listed are only vaguely described. I need a V-STRETCH mode at the very least. A H-SQUEEZE mode would be a bonus. Is that was the two anamorphic modes do on the 6050?
> 
> And from reading the manuals it seems that the 5050 doesn't support these two modes. Can someone confirm or disprove that?
> 
> Thank you.


The 6050 has the needed processing functions for adding an A-lens built-in where the 5050 does not.

They both have lens memories and can be set up with a cinemascope screen (but only the 6050 will work with an A-lens on it's own), the 5050 would require and outboard device like a Lumagen.

- Jason


----------



## DaGamePimp

DLCPhoto said:


> Thanks - so after calibration, using -1, you had (probably) Gamma 2.2.
> 
> I'm still hoping to find out what Gamma is present (theoretically at least) with Custom Gamma at 0, or any of the other options +/- 1 and 2, without formal calibration. It still seems odd that they don't quantify this as other Projectors do - I looked at an Epson manual for a relatively recent projector (I forget which), and the menu provided 2.2, 2.4 Gamma options, so was hoping for the same with the 6050ub. But for whatever reason, it doesn't seem to be set up that way.


A setting of -2 is closest to 2.4 Gamma but it does not track perfectly without additional calibration.

- Jason


----------



## Luminated67

Marc D Carra said:


> So my 5050 refurb arrived and I've been testing it all night. The carpet hasn't t been put in yet, and im projecting on a wall with a window😅. Just trying to get an idea of screen size. I haven't removed the white metal tile tracks from the ceiling but other than those reflections, my initial impressions are great!! Im just using cinema bright and haven't touched any settings yet. The projector is about 20 feet back and im getting about a 150" scope aspect on the wall. The contrast and blacks are impressive even for just a grey wall. Thinking of going grey AT screen🤔
> View attachment 3192757
> View attachment 3192758


I took the bottom image when I had my 100” screen and the machine was pro calibrated. In my opinion for the price the 6050(9400) throws an exceptional image. BTW it looks like your room is blackened out, my is covered in black velour everywhere, walls, ceiling and black mugs wall to wall approximately 8ft out from screen.









Of course the above image actually looks even better with more shadow detail that the camera phone can’t quite capture.


----------



## Luminated67

Northern_Lights said:


> I posted this 11 days ago and I think it got lost in an existing, ongoing discussion. If I don't get any answers this time, I won't clog up the thread with it further:
> 
> Has anyone figured out a way to disable the subtle (but not really all that subtle) motion-smoothing that occurs whenever the 5050 is getting a 24hz signal? The seemingly undefeatable soap opera effect? No, I am NOT talking about the actual frame interpolation feature that's only available with a 1080p signal. I'm talking about the automatic motion smoothing applied to 4k, 24fps content in the 5050.
> 
> The only way I've figured to eliminate this motion smoothing is to send 24hz content inside of a 60hz "package." There are settings to toggle this off and on in my Panny 420, Series X, and Fire stick 4k. However, when sending 24hz content in a 60hz package like this, I get 4k/HDR/10-bit/4:2:0. When sending in a 'native' 24hz package, I get 4k/HDR/10-bit/4:4:4.
> 
> Should 10-bit 4:2:0 be enough for playing 4k blu rays? Or am I missing something by spending the bandwidth on a 60hz package instead of spending it on 4:4:4?


You might be losing something from the image but if the standard 24Hz is bothering you enough to make the switch to 60Hz then do you really have an option?


----------



## OJ Bartley

Marc D Carra said:


> So my 5050 refurb arrived and I've been testing it all night. The carpet hasn't t been put in yet, and im projecting on a wall with a window😅. Just trying to get an idea of screen size. I haven't removed the white metal tile tracks from the ceiling but other than those reflections, my initial impressions are great!! Im just using cinema bright and haven't touched any settings yet. The projector is about 20 feet back and im getting about a 150" scope aspect on the wall. The contrast and blacks are impressive even for just a grey wall. Thinking of going grey AT screen🤔


I felt the same when I first projected mine onto a black wall. I was floored by the image quality. Since my room is all black I went with a white over black spandex screen (no ambient light and very little reflection) and it looks amazing. I've wondered if a grey spandex would have given me blacks that are a little deeper, but I honestly can't complain about the black levels I get now. Enjoy!!


----------



## ejhuzy

DaGamePimp said:


> The 6050 has the needed processing functions for adding an A-lens built-in where the 5050 does not.
> 
> They both have lens memories and can be set up with a cinemascope screen (but only the 6050 will work with an A-lens on it's own), the 5050 would require and outboard device like a Lumagen.
> 
> - Jason


Thanks Jason for the reply. But can you give a little more info on the exact behavior fo the aspect ratios? IOWs, is Anamorphic Wide a vertical stretch? Horizontal Squeeze seems explanatory enough


----------



## Kieran

@fredworld and anyone else using the Sony UBP-X800m2 with their Epson:
What are you seeing in the Spears & Munsil chroma bursts?








I am seeing bad chroma performance on both of the above patterns; it varies depending on what chroma upsampling modality I choose for the Sony, but non of them (4-2-0, 4-2-2, 4-4-4, or RGB) results in a "good" chroma burst pattern.
I think I've narrowed it down to the Sony as the problem/culprit, but would love to confirm with others who have the same display/uhd bd player combo.


----------



## DaGamePimp

ejhuzy said:


> Thanks Jason for the reply. But can you give a little more info on the exact behavior fo the aspect ratios? IOWs, is Anamorphic Wide a vertical stretch? Horizontal Squeeze seems explanatory enough


I do not own the 6050 but my understanding is as follows...

Wide is for 2.40:1/scope content to display properly when using an A-lens, this is the stretch mode that allows the A-lens to do it's job.

- Jason


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> @fredworld and anyone else using the Sony UBP-X800m2 with their Epson:
> What are you seeing in the Spears & Munsil chroma bursts?
> View attachment 3192735
> 
> I am seeing bad chroma performance on both of the above patterns; it varies depending on what chroma upsampling modality I choose for the Sony, but non of them (4-2-0, 4-2-2, 4-4-4, or RGB) results in a "good" chroma burst pattern.
> I think I've narrowed it down to the Sony as the problem/culprit, but would love to confirm with others who have the same display/uhd bd player combo.


I'll have to get back to you on that. I don't recall offhand and it might be a few days before I get a chance to examine the pattern due to pending travel. If you would, please, drop me a PM as a reminder over the weekend, if I don't post back sooner.


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> I'll have to get back to you on that. I don't recall offhand and it might be a few days before I get a chance to examine the pattern due to pending travel. If you would, please, drop me a PM as a reminder over the weekend, if I don't post back sooner.


thanks, will do.


----------



## Marc D Carra

So I'm convinced the contrast I'm seeing is so great because of the grey wall. I got a cheap shelf to mount the projector at the back of the room about 22 feet away. My room has almost zero reflections and i havent put the carpet in. I guess i chose the right kind of paint. So now I'm looking for suggestions for a grey screen, 138 to 145", scope ratio. Fixed frame, under $1000. I dont want to go white for fear i will lose the contrast I'm seeing on the grey wall.


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> @fredworld and anyone else using the Sony UBP-X800m2 with their Epson:
> What are you seeing in the Spears & Munsil chroma bursts?
> View attachment 3192735
> 
> I am seeing bad chroma performance on both of the above patterns; it varies depending on what chroma upsampling modality I choose for the Sony, but non of them (4-2-0, 4-2-2, 4-4-4, or RGB) results in a "good" chroma burst pattern.
> I think I've narrowed it down to the Sony as the problem/culprit, but would love to confirm with others who have the same display/uhd bd player combo.


@Kieran, here are a couple poor quality shots taken with my smartphone of the SDR and HDR Color Space patterns from the S&M UHD Benchmark disc from my Sony 800M2. After re-reading the *S&M UHD Article*, if any chroma performance anomalies are there, then they are too subtle for my untrained eye to discern. Looking more closely at your post it seems that you posted the pics from the S&M site rather than actual screen shots. I didn't do much experimenting changing from 4-2-0, 4-2-2, 4-4-4 or RGB adn honestly, I just don't stress over these things and mainly rely on the basic Set-Up patterns for dialing in the system. Your screen is larger and of a higher gain than mine, so perhaps there's an explanation somewhere in those differences. I'm sorry that I can't be of more help.


----------



## DigitalAV

3DLUT folks: which picture mode on the 5050/6050ub do you use to start with calibrating a white point? Dynamic? Bright Cinema? Natural?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Marc D Carra said:


> So I'm convinced the contrast I'm seeing is so great because of the grey wall. I got a cheap shelf to mount the projector at the back of the room about 22 feet away. My room has almost zero reflections and i havent put the carpet in. I guess i chose the right kind of paint. So now I'm looking for suggestions for a grey screen, 138 to 145", scope ratio. Fixed frame, under $1000. I dont want to go white for fear i will lose the contrast I'm seeing on the grey wall.
> View attachment 3193150
> View attachment 3193151
> View attachment 3193156
> View attachment 3193158


I saw in your previous post you are also looking for an AT screen. You should check out my AT screen test. I compared and measured 31 AT materials: [Updated 10/21/21] 31 Acoustically Transparent Screen...

If you are looking for a woven AT screen then there is really just one option and that's the Severtson TAT. I wouldn't recommend it due to its super low gain, but it is an option. Now if you are looking for a perforated screen then there are options. For this though you need space between the speakers and screen (~12") and between the screen and viewer (12'+) to not see the perforations.

I for sure get wanting to go grey, as that is what I did. I had/have a very similarly painted theater and thought "this is a bat cave and I should be able to go with a white screen for sure." Well, you may think those flat grey walls don't give off reflections but they for sure do. I added 5' of flocking around the front of my theater and only then was I happy with a white screen. Here you can see how my theater ended up minus the new XY SoundMax 4K screen:









I am eventually going to flock the entire room and add black carpet.

Another thing to consider is that if you get a grey screen it will limit your ability to use the manual iris and increase actual contrast. I'm much happier going from a grey spandex screen with a gain of ~0.45 to my XY 4K screen with a 0.8 gain. My end result is similar black levels but brighter highlights because I can use the manual iris more. For SDR I'm messing around right now with Medium lamp and the iris at -20. No way that would look good with a grey AT screen.


----------



## Marc D Carra

PixelPusher15 said:


> I saw in your previous post you are also looking for an AT screen. You should check out my AT screen test. I compared and measured 31 AT materials: [Updated 10/21/21] 31 Acoustically Transparent Screen...
> 
> If you are looking for a woven AT screen then there is really just one option and that's the Severtson TAT. I wouldn't recommend it due to its super low gain, but it is an option. Now if you are looking for a perforated screen then there are options. For this, though you need space between the speakers and screen (~12") and between the screen and viewer (12'+) to not see the perforations.
> 
> I for sure get wanting to go grey, as that is what I did. I had/have a very similarly painted theater and thought "this is a bat cave and I should be able to go with a white screen for sure." Well, you may think those flat grey walls don't give off reflections but they for sure do. I added 5' of flocking around the front of my theater and only then was I happy with a white screen. Here you can see how my theater ended up minus the new XY SoundMax 4K screen:
> View attachment 3193326
> 
> 
> I am eventually going to flock the entire room and add black carpet.
> 
> Another thing to consider is that if you get a grey screen it will limit your ability to use the manual iris and increase actual contrast. I'm much happier going from a grey spandex screen with a gain of ~0.45 to my XY 4K screen with a 0.8 gain. My end result is similar black levels but brighter highlights because I can use the manual iris more. For SDR I'm messing around right now with Medium lamp and the iris at -20. No way that would look good with a grey AT screen.


Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm actually doing the Flocking around the screen as well. I was recommended to use this paint for its total lack of sheen. It arrived today.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Marc D Carra said:


> Thanks for the detailed reply. I'm actually doing the Flocking around the screen as well. I was recommended to use this paint for its total lack of sheen. It arrived today.
> View attachment 3193341


No paint can really compare to velvet or even flock but that is supposed to be better than standard flat paint. If you are painting your theater with that and using flock then I would use a white screen. I always recommend getting samples and seeing what you think yourself. The tricky thing is that you will want to use different picture settings depending on the screen. So keep this in mind when testing.


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> @Kieran, here are a couple poor quality shots taken with my smartphone of the SDR and HDR Color Space patterns from the S&M UHD Benchmark disc from my Sony 800M2. After re-reading the *S&M UHD Article*, if any chroma performance anomalies are there, then they are too subtle for my untrained eye to discern. Looking more closely at your post it seems that you posted the pics from the S&M site rather than actual screen shots. I didn't do much experimenting changing from 4-2-0, 4-2-2, 4-4-4 or RGB adn honestly, I just don't stress over these things and mainly rely on the basic Set-Up patterns for dialing in the system. Your screen is larger and of a higher gain than mine, so perhaps there's an explanation somewhere in those differences. I'm sorry that I can't be of more help.
> 
> (images snipped to save screen space)


That's great, thanks Fred. You have confirmed that your setup produces the same issues as mine, at least!  
In your first image, up in the left upper corner by the red & blue concentric circles pattern, the three patterns around the concentric circles are the chroma burst patterns. When viewed up close, they should be alternating red and blue lines, horizontal in one box, vertical in another, and diagonal in the third. 
They are not clearly alternating blue and red lines. They are decently clear on the diagonal pattern, but blur together in two of the patterns to make what is essentially pink/magenta for the pattern with horizontal lines (vertical chroma resolution burst). In the third box (vertical lines = horizontal chroma resolution burst) they are barely visible at all, and the box looks almost black.
Here's an example of my system with the Sony set at 4-4-4 SDR:









Here's the same pattern with Sony set to RGB color space, still 4K/SDR:









So on the pattern, RGB looks slightly better than 4-4-4, but it's still poor (all three should look like the diagonal pattern with some black between the red&blue). But in theory they should be identical, as 4-4-4 and RGB are both fully up-sampled from the 4-2-0 data encoded on the disc.
This is, I'm told in chatting with Stacey, due to the Mediatek chip that the Sony uses, which upsamples the color space incorrectly.
If you set the Sony to the RGB color space, it looks marginally better in the test patterns, but still flawed. I just leave it in 4-2-0. None of the color space modes is correct for the Sony, and I can't tell which is the least bad. The thing is, I think (Stacey might disagree) that with UHD resolutions, errors in chroma (even blatant/bad ones) become harder to see. So we may be picking nits here. But getting chroma right is what made many video disc players very popular over the years (remember the Panasonic RP-93?) Oppo was one of the first brands to take this seriously and fix it. Alas even they dropped away from this as even the venerated 203 apparently doesn't get it right, either, as it apparently uses the same Mediatek chip as the Sony.

If anyone with the Oppo 203 is willing, I'd love to see some shots of this pattern with a 203+5050ub combination.

For anyone questioning this as off-topic. The issue here is that the display can also do chroma upsampling. If you feed it 4-4-4, it will do not upsampling and just convert to RGB. If you feed it RGB it should do no chroma processing at all. If you feed it 4-2-0, it will do the upsampling instead of the disc player.

The point of these tests is to try to decide which combination of player and display chroma upsampling gives the best color resolution on the screen.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> No paint can really compare to velvet or even flock but that is supposed to be better than standard flat paint. If you are painting your theater with that and using flock then I would use a white screen. I always recommend getting samples and seeing what you think yourself. The tricky thing is that you will want to use different picture settings depending on the screen. So keep this in mind when testing.


Really though, if you aren't willing to get your theater coated in Vanta Black (tm) you may as well just get an OLED.


----------



## mpls1981

I recently bought the Epson 5050 and I've ran into an oddity that I'm not sure is due to something I'm doing or is just the projector. I have 4K HDR videos (mkv) that I watch using my Xbox. When I first hooked it up, everything played fine. The projector auto switched from SDR to HDR, as expected and confirmed in Signal Status.
Once I started adding personal settings (which I saved in Memory), it stopped doing it. It would stay in SDR even though I had it set to Auto and Signal Status would indicate only an SDR source. Nothing I did while watching the video worked to get it to switch over. I could manually choose HDR, but still said an SDR source. Clearing all the settings didn't work either. However, once out of the video, resetting the settings and then going back into the video, it would again switch to HDR. I could then apply my saved Settings from Memory and it played fine.

Is that just how the projector works and I have to add a step when playing HDR videos off my Xbox to start with the default settings or am I inadvertently adding a setting somewhere else that is causing it? The setting to switch from SDR to HDR is Auto.

If I play a 4K disc in my dedicated player, no issues with the projector switching from SDR to HDR when starting it up with the Menus to the actual movie with my settings already applied.

Thanks!


----------



## Kieran

mpls1981 said:


> I recently bought the Epson 5050 and I've ran into an oddity that I'm not sure is due to something I'm doing or is just the projector. I have 4K HDR videos (mkv) that I watch using my Xbox. When I first hooked it up, everything played fine. The projector auto switched from SDR to HDR, as expected and confirmed in Signal Status.
> Once I started adding personal settings (which I saved in Memory), it stopped doing it. It would stay in SDR even though I had it set to Auto and Signal Status would indicate only an SDR source. Nothing I did while watching the video worked to get it to switch over. I could manually choose HDR, but still said an SDR source. Clearing all the settings didn't work either. However, once out of the video, resetting the settings and then going back into the video, it would again switch to HDR. I could then apply my saved Settings from Memory and it played fine.
> 
> Is that just how the projector works and I have to add a step when playing HDR videos off my Xbox to start with the default settings or am I inadvertently adding a setting somewhere else that is causing it? The setting to switch from SDR to HDR is Auto.
> 
> If I play a 4K disc in my dedicated player, no issues with the projector switching from SDR to HDR when starting it up with the Menus to the actual movie with my settings already applied.
> 
> Thanks!


What happens if you play that 4k HDR disc from your xbox?
I suspect something strange with the mkv file. Do you have another media player to try it from?
If it is something with the settings you saved in memory, we'd need to see a list of what you changed.


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> That's great, thanks Fred. You have confirmed that your setup produces the same issues as mine, at least!
> In your first image, up in the left upper corner by the red & blue concentric circles pattern, the three patterns around the concentric circles are the chroma burst patterns. When viewed up close, they should be alternating red and blue lines, horizontal in one box, vertical in another, and diagonal in the third.
> They are not clearly alternating blue and red lines. They are decently clear on the diagonal pattern, but blur together in two of the patterns to make what is essentially pink/magenta for the pattern with horizontal lines (vertical chroma resolution burst). In the third box (vertical lines = horizontal chroma resolution burst) they are barely visible at all, and the box looks almost black.
> Here's an example of my system with the Sony set at 4-4-4 SDR:
> View attachment 3193357
> 
> 
> Here's the same pattern with Sony set to RGB color space, still 4K/SDR:
> View attachment 3193359
> 
> 
> So on the pattern, RGB looks slightly better than 4-4-4, but it's still poor (all three should look like the diagonal pattern with some black between the red&blue). But in theory they should be identical, as 4-4-4 and RGB are both fully up-sampled from the 4-2-0 data encoded on the disc.
> This is, I'm told in chatting with Stacey, due to the Mediatek chip that the Sony uses, which upsamples the color space incorrectly.
> If you set the Sony to the RGB color space, it looks marginally better in the test patterns, but still flawed. I just leave it in 4-2-0. None of the color space modes is correct for the Sony, and I can't tell which is the least bad. The thing is, I think (Stacey might disagree) that with UHD resolutions, errors in chroma (even blatant/bad ones) become harder to see. So we may be picking nits here. But getting chroma right is what made many video disc players very popular over the years (remember the Panasonic RP-93?) Oppo was one of the first brands to take this seriously and fix it. Alas even they dropped away from this as even the venerated 203 apparently doesn't get it right, either, as it apparently uses the same Mediatek chip as the Sony.
> 
> If anyone with the Oppo 203 is willing, I'd love to see some shots of this pattern with a 203+5050ub combination.
> 
> For anyone questioning this as off-topic. The issue here is that the display can also do chroma upsampling. If you feed it 4-4-4, it will do not upsampling and just convert to RGB. If you feed it RGB it should do no chroma processing at all. If you feed it 4-2-0, it will do the upsampling instead of the disc player.
> 
> The point of these tests is to try to decide which combination of player and display chroma upsampling gives the best color resolution on the screen.


Thanks for the thorough explanation. I'm going to try to digest that further later. I recall reading somewhere that RGB is the best setting because the original signal is RGB, then it's converted to YCbCr as opposed to setting to YCbCr which must be converted to RGB then back to YCbCr. Or something like that?🤔


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> Thanks for the thorough explanation. I'm going to try to digest that further later. I recall reading somewhere that RGB is the best setting because the original signal is RGB, then it's converted to YCbCr as opposed to setting to YCbCr which must be converted to RGB then back to YCbCr. Or something like that?🤔


Close but a little mixed up.
Digital video (going back to DVD) is stored on the disc in 4-2-0 (YCbCr) in order to save space. So the signal must be up-sampled to get to RGB which is full resolution color. YCbCr 4-4-4 is also full resolution color, but still in the Luminance-chroma-difference format. No one stores movies in 4-4-4 it would take too much space and result in zero image quality improvement (our eyes are way less sensitive to color than to contrast/black+white detail). However, all display devices require RGB ultimately. So the signal must be upsampled at some point. The question is, do you let your disc spinner do it, or have your display device do it? That depends on which one does the upsampling better, and not all chroma upsampling algorithms (chips) are created equal.

In theory, if you set your player to 4-2-0, it should do nothing to the original image, and send it out unmolested. Alas, most chips don't have the capability to do no chroma upsampling (as is the case with the Sony's Mediatek chip). So even when set to 4-2-0 the image is still messed up. It's minor, but it's there.

A little bit of history:
Back in the early 2000's, Stacey Spears and Don Munsil discovered that most DVD players (and set-top cable and satellite boxes which were also decoding MPEG streams just like DVD players) had a "chroma upsampling error" (CUE) bug which resulted in quite visible artifacts in scenes of high/vibrant color in many movies. They developed these test patterns to test players and publish their findings (published in the "dvd benchmark" on hometheaterhifi.com aka "Secrets"). This became so well received that the industry responded and DVD player manufacturers started choosing MPEG chips based on these test results and image quality rather than price. It was a pretty cool moment where HT enthusiasts actually made a significant impact on the industry.

For several years, we who write for Secrets helped test dozens of DVD players (and any other devices that touch the video signal like AVRs) so that people knew what they were getting, since you can't open up a player and check which MPEG chip it has before buying. Along with the CUE bug results, we also published results for de-interlacing performance. Demand for these data dropped when Blu Ray and flat panel (natively progressive scan) displays became ubiquitous.

EDIT: the technical details are all spelled out here:








Choosing a Color Space, Ultra HD Edition


Introduction This article is about how to choose the output color space from your player and / or video processor. We’ll talk a bit about what a “color space” is, why you should care, and how to tell which color space or spaces work best with your combination of equipment. What is A “Color Space?”…




spearsandmunsil.com


----------



## Marc D Carra

Kieran said:


> Really though, if you aren't willing to get your theater coated in Vanta Black (tm) you may as well just get an OLED.


I just bought the new Sony 77A80J OLED for upstairs. The 5050 will primarily be used for 3D.


----------



## Kieran

Marc D Carra said:


> I just bought the new Sony 77A80J OLED for upstairs. The 5050 will primarily be used for 3D.


LOL I was just joking, teasing about how we in this hobby seem to one-up everything to the point of absurdity. Vanta Black is the blackest surface treatment ever created, and it would cost many millions of dollars to treat an entire room (even a small one) in Vanta Black. It's mostly used for commercial/industrial treatments of very small objects or enclosures, or for artwork and demonstrations. But boy would a theater room treated in Vanta Black be super cool and amazing to experience!!!  Maybe Jefflon Bezusk will do it.
But congrats on the Sony OLED!!!


----------



## Marc D Carra

Kieran said:


> LOL I was just joking, teasing about how we in this hobby seem to one-up everything to the point of absurdity. Vanta Black is the blackest surface treatment ever created, and it would cost many millions of dollars to treat an entire room (even a small one) in Vanta Black. It's mostly used for commercial/industrial treatments of very small objects or enclosures, or for artwork and demonstrations. But boy would a theater room treated in Vanta Black be super cool and amazing to experience!!!  Maybe Jefflon Bezusk will do it.
> But congrats on the Sony OLED!!!


Lol, I just looked up the stuff. I'm pretty sure if you coated an entire room with it, a black hole would open up and swallow the planet 😂🕳


----------



## Marc D Carra

These are the numbers from Projector Central's throw calculator. According to my positioning of the projector, and screen size, i do need a negative gain screen. That must be why my grey wall looks so good. So what screens give you a 0.7 or 0.8 gain??


----------



## PixelPusher15

Marc D Carra said:


> These are the numbers from Projector Central's throw calculator. According to my positioning of the projector, and screen size, i do need a negative gain screen. That must be why my grey wall looks so good. So what screens give you a 0.7 or 0.8 gain??
> View attachment 3193666
> View attachment 3193667


I believe Projector Central uses the max output that they measured, or that the manufacture spec’d. So that would be in Dynamic and the lamp on High. I like to look at reviews and see what the measured output is for the actual picture modes most will use and then use this calculator: Projector Calculator | Projector Screen Calculator | Aspect Ratio Calculator | Screen Size Calculator | Distance Calculator - Projector Screen | Projection Screen

Here you can type in the lumens, screen size and screen gain. In Natural/Medium the 5050 tried about 1600 lumens which a new bulb. Then about 1400 in Eco. If you use a mode with the color filter then you’re going to be getting ~800 in medium.

As I said earlier, you’d rather have too much brightness that you can then throttle back with the iris so you can increase contrast. Also, you want headroom as the bulb ages so you can move up in lamp power/open the iris.

Lastly, any woven AT screen is going to be at max a .85 gain with most being in the .7 range. Disregard the manufacturers ratings unless you are looking at Stewart screens.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> LOL I was just joking, teasing about how we in this hobby seem to one-up everything to the point of absurdity. Vanta Black is the blackest surface treatment ever created, and it would cost many millions of dollars to treat an entire room (even a small one) in Vanta Black. It's mostly used for commercial/industrial treatments of very small objects or enclosures, or for artwork and demonstrations. But boy would a theater room treated in Vanta Black be super cool and amazing to experience!!!  Maybe Jefflon Bezusk will do it.
> But congrats on the Sony OLED!!!


I still don’t believe Vanta Black is as light absorbing as velvet. All the paints are super sensitive to how you apply them and they usually reflect light at certain angles, at least more than velvet does. It’s really, really hard to beat velvet.

Also, hey, if you’re going for a full on blacked out theater then why not actually go all the way? As it relates to this convo I don’t believe a painted theater is still good enough for a white screen. There’s still going to be too many reflections. A dark painted theater with a slightly negative gain screen is a good combo in my opinion. Or a 1.3 gain screen since it has a little bit of ALR properties. I believe I’m being a little practical here lol


----------



## Luminated67

Marc D Carra said:


> These are the numbers from Projector Central's throw calculator. According to my positioning of the projector, and screen size, i do need a negative gain screen. That must be why my grey wall looks so good. So what screens give you a 0.7 or 0.8 gain??


The only thing I find using Projector Central's throw calculator for is precisely that working out if I have the throw to mount the projector and get the desired size of screen, after that I wouldn't look at the results especially the Nit value but it's MAXIMUM light output which means Dynamic mode and High lamp mode, when you calibrate any projector this drops plus depending on the requirements you have the option to drop the lamp down to either Medium or Eco and close down the Iris if needed.

For example originally I was using a 100" 16:9 1.1 gain screen and at my throw distance Projector Central said I would be getting 96ft/L yet when the calibrator did his magic I was using picture mode NATURAL + ECO mode with the Iris at -16 for SDR and CINEMA + ECO mode with Iris at 0.

With a 138" screen I would suggest looking for a 1.2-1.3 gain screen, definitely don't look at a negative gain screen with that size of screen.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> I still don’t believe Vanta Black is as light absorbing as velvet. All the paints are super sensitive to how you apply them and they usually reflect light at certain angles, at least more than velvet does. It’s really, really hard to beat velvet.
> 
> Also, hey, if you’re going for a full on blacked out theater then why not actually go all the way? As it relates to this convo I don’t believe a painted theater is still good enough for a white screen. There’s still going to be too many reflections. A dark painted theater with a slightly negative gain screen is a good combo in my opinion. Or a 1.3 gain screen since it has a little bit of ALR properties. I believe I’m being a little practical here lol


Andy, seriously read up on Vanta Black. Velvet doesn't even come close. VB isn't some paint you can buy. It's something like $1000's of dollars per square inch. The original product isn't even paint, it's a surface treatment of carbon nanotubes (I believe they have produced a "paintable" product now too, but it's slightly less absorptive). VB is blacker than any other surface known to man. Objects coated in VB defy the brain's ability to process what it's seeing. I know, we had a VB coated device at my work. You have a fully lit room (bright lab, actually) and this thing, a normal 3D object, just looks like a bizarre 2D hole. It just disappears and loses all 3-dimensionality. I think the numbers are something like 99.8% of light is absorbed by VB. 

Black velvet is still shiny. If you pick up a ball coated in black velvet it looks like a 3D ball. A VB coated ball would look like a black void.


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## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Andy, seriously read up on Vanta Black. Velvet doesn't even come close. VB isn't some paint you can buy. It's something like $1000's of dollars per square inch. The original product isn't even paint, it's a surface treatment of carbon nanotubes (I believe they have produced a "paintable" product now too, but it's slightly less absorptive). VB is blacker than any other surface known to man. Objects coated in VB defy the brain's ability to process what it's seeing. I know, we had a VB coated device at my work. You have a fully lit room (bright lab, actually) and this thing, a normal 3D object, just looks like a bizarre 2D hole. It just disappears and loses all 3-dimensionality. I think the numbers are something like 99.8% of light is absorbed by VB.
> 
> Black velvet is still shiny. If you pick up a ball coated in black velvet it looks like a 3D ball. A VB coated ball would look like a black void.


Ah, you're right. I'm thinking about Musou Black and Black 3.0 which are a bit more freely available.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Luminated67 said:


> The only thing I find using Projector Central's throw calculator for is precisely that working out if I have the throw to mount the projector and get the desired size of screen, after that I wouldn't look at the results especially the Nit value but it's MAXIMUM light output which means Dynamic mode and High lamp mode, when you calibrate any projector this drops plus depending on the requirements you have the option to drop the lamp down to either Medium or Eco and close down the Iris if needed.
> 
> For example originally I was using a 100" 16:9 1.1 gain screen and at my throw distance Projector Central said I would be getting 96ft/L yet when the calibrator did his magic I was using picture mode NATURAL + ECO mode with the Iris at -16 for SDR and CINEMA + ECO mode with Iris at 0.
> 
> With a 138" screen I would suggest looking for a 1.2-1.3 gain screen, definitely don't look at a negative gain screen with that size of screen.


My settings are Natural and Eco with Iris at -12 for SDR and also Cinema and Eco with Iris at 0 for HDR.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Luminated67 said:


> The only thing I find using Projector Central's throw calculator for is precisely that working out if I have the throw to mount the projector and get the desired size of screen, after that I wouldn't look at the results especially the Nit value but it's MAXIMUM light output which means Dynamic mode and High lamp mode, when you calibrate any projector this drops plus depending on the requirements you have the option to drop the lamp down to either Medium or Eco and close down the Iris if needed.
> 
> For example originally I was using a 100" 16:9 1.1 gain screen and at my throw distance Projector Central said I would be getting 96ft/L yet when the calibrator did his magic I was using picture mode NATURAL + ECO mode with the Iris at -16 for SDR and CINEMA + ECO mode with Iris at 0.
> 
> With a 138" screen I would suggest looking for a 1.2-1.3 gain screen, definitely don't look at a negative gain screen with that size of screen.


1.2-1.3 aint gonna happen with AT unless he goes perforated.

Right now I'm really digging my .8 gain AT screen. Last night I experimented with Digital Cinema and the lamp on High. The fan noise was a little annoying but dang does that look good. I think I saw in a review that contrast takes a little step up with the filter in place. Can't use the iris though.


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## fredworld

I've been using Digital Cinema on Medium Lamp and 0 Iris for quite a while. My OLED friends are amazed.


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## Kieran

fredworld said:


> @Kieran, here are a couple poor quality shots taken with my smartphone of the SDR and HDR Color Space patterns from the S&M UHD Benchmark disc from my Sony 800M2. After re-reading the *S&M UHD Article*, if any chroma performance anomalies are there, then they are too subtle for my untrained eye to discern. Looking more closely at your post it seems that you posted the pics from the S&M site rather than actual screen shots. I didn't do much experimenting changing from 4-2-0, 4-2-2, 4-4-4 or RGB adn honestly, I just don't stress over these things and mainly rely on the basic Set-Up patterns for dialing in the system. Your screen is larger and of a higher gain than mine, so perhaps there's an explanation somewhere in those differences. I'm sorry that I can't be of more help.


@fredworld No hurry, but when you have time would you mind exploring this same pattern test using your Panasonic as a comparison?


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## fredworld

Kieran said:


> @fredworld No hurry, but when you have time would you mind exploring this same pattern test using your Panasonic as a comparison?


I can ... when I get back home in a few.


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## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> I've been using Digital Cinema on Medium Lamp and 0 Iris for quite a while. My OLED friends are amazed.


Big difference between your 94" wide ST100 and my 123" XY 4K lol. Putting the number into the calculator it looks like you should be getting 30fL on an almost new bulb in Digital Cinema/Medium while I'm getting 17fL on Digital Cinema/High  

I'm gonna do a lot more experimenting and calibrating this weeked. I also got the S&M disc and should be able to take a look at that pattern @Kieran.


----------



## Marc D Carra

Without me searching thousands of posts, can anyone recommend a decent ceiling mount for the 5050 that i can flush mount. Preferably something available on Amazon. My ceiling is very low so i want to flush mount it to the joists.


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## eieio

Replacement Bulbs:

may i please ask the difference(s) between:

(1) ELPLP 89: Product # V13H010L89; Bar Code: X34U00032311

versus

(2) ELPLP 89: Product # V13H010C89; Bar Code: X3HR0000018

Thank you.


----------



## Werewolf79

Kieran said:


> @fredworld No hurry, but when you have time would you mind exploring this same pattern test using your Panasonic as a comparison?


I get the exact same result using a Panasonic UB820 player no matter whether i choose 4:4:4 or 4:2:0 or RGB standard, it is exactly the same result you get with your Sony UHD player.


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## MannFan

MannFan said:


> Anyone want to take a guess what this high pitched noise is after installing a new lamp from the 3rd party recommended one, PurelandSupply?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Recording 3.m4a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drive.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The noise is most prominent coming out of the left (if you’re facing the projector) exhaust vent things. At :17 seconds I move the phone to wear the lamp is and the noise doesn’t appear to be happening but that’s also covered and doesn’t have a place for sound to escape I theorize.
> 
> This is the first time I installed a new lamp and I will say, it didn’t go in smoothly. I didn’t force it in but I had to apply a bit of pressure which made me uneasy seeing as how smoothly the original lamp went in and out.
> 
> Picture is great and I’ve used it 117 hours with no other problems. They said they’d replace it but I’d be out a TV source for the several days it takes to ship back and get a replacement. So I’ve put it off.
> 
> Thanks for any help. As you can tell, I am a newbie.


Anyone want to take a guess again about the high pitched noise in the quote from myself 26 days ago? I got Pureland Supply to send me a new lamp but the problem remains though it may be a little bit quieter and the housing did go in smoother.

The worst part is that I accidentally threw out the factory lamp so I can’t just see if that was the problem.

It’s possible it’s a problem I may just have to live with but it’s really stupid. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Werewolf79

MannFan said:


> Anyone want to take a guess again about the high pitched noise in the quote from myself 26 days ago? I got Pureland Supply to send me a new lamp but the problem remains though it may be a little bit quieter and the housing did go in smoother.
> 
> The worst part is that I accidentally threw out the factory lamp so I can’t just see if that was the problem.
> 
> It’s possible it’s a problem I may just have to live with but it’s really stupid. Thanks in advance.


Maybe it’s the iris or one of the fans ?


----------



## Marc D Carra

Has anyone here used a Qualgear mount for their 5050/6050? It says it's supposed to hold 70lbs:



Amazon.com


----------



## jaredmwright

Marc D Carra said:


> Has anyone here used a Qualgear mount for their 5050/6050? It says it's supposed to hold 70lbs:
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com


I use one and it works fine. Good adjustment and plenty stable. 6050ub here.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

I've been curious how the iris on the 5050 impacts contrast throughout the range so while honing my calibration skills this weekend I decided to take some measurements. These are off the screen so they aren't ideal and my i1DP3 could be struggling at the bottom of the range but things seem to make sense. This is also after a 2.4 gamma greyscale calibration in Natural mode. Projector is set to Medium power mode with the auto iris off. As I said, these are off the screen so they are most likely a bit low for this projector. (My first refurb measured worse off the screen than this)


















@DLCPhoto to get a 2.4 gamma I had to set a custom gamma and drop a lot of the sliders down quite a bit. If you want I can record where each one ended up. Using -2 got me to 2.18 I believe. My final average gamma was 2.38. Oh, also custom gamma couldn't fully get me to 2.4 above 50IRE. I still needed to bring things down in greyscale. I set color temp to 6000 as well. I'm going to try out some other gammas for kicks after I tackle some CMS calibration and HDR. Fun weekend!


----------



## DLCPhoto

Thanks for this, @PixelPusher15 . For what it's worth, Epson Tech Support got back to my inquiry about this, and stated that Custom Gamma at 0 provides a Gamma of 2.2, while -2 yields a Gamma of 2.4.

That said, I'm sure that this likely gets you in the ballpark, and a formal calibration as you've done would give much more accurate results. My friend is setting his Epson at -2, with the Envy configured for Gamma 2.4, and says HDR looks awesome. He may consider calibration down the road, to further fine-tune things.

I appreciate your offer (on his behalf), but since he's happy so far, will likely get a calibration down the road, and more than likely adjustments for 1 projector wouldn't be directly comparable to that from another, there's no need for you to take the time on our behalf.

Have fun this week-end!


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> I've been curious how the iris on the 5050 impacts contrast throughout the range so while honing my calibration skills this weekend I decided to take some measurements. These are off the screen so they aren't ideal and my i1DP3 could be struggling at the bottom of the range but things seem to make sense. This is also after a 2.4 gamma greyscale calibration in Natural mode. Projector is set to Medium power mode with the auto iris off. As I said, these are off the screen so they are most likely a bit low for this projector. (My first refurb measured worse off the screen than this)
> 
> View attachment 3194189
> 
> View attachment 3194191
> 
> 
> @DLCPhoto to get a 2.4 gamma I had to set a custom gamma and drop a lot of the sliders down quite a bit. If you want I can record where each one ended up. Using -2 got me to 2.18 I believe. My final average gamma was 2.38. Oh, also custom gamma couldn't fully get me to 2.4 above 50IRE. I still needed to bring things down in greyscale. I set color temp to 6000 as well. I'm going to try out some other gammas for kicks after I tackle some CMS calibration and HDR. Fun weekend!


So if I'm reading this right, it might be worth stopping that Iris down for SDR content to boost the contrast, yeah? I find HDR a bit too dim already, but SDR is plenty bright on Natural and could easily lose some output for added contrast.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> So if I'm reading this right, it might be worth stopping that Iris down for SDR content to boost the contrast, yeah? I find HDR a bit too dim already, but SDR is plenty bright on Natural and could easily lose some output for added contrast.


Yup. That has been a sorta common preference for some that I've seen, I just wanted to put some numbers behind it. I just recalibrated mine again (getting faster and cleaner) and these are the before after results

Default Eco/Natural, Iris = 0, Auto iris off
3400:1
72 nits

Calibrated Eco/Natural, Iris = -9, Auto iris off
4200:1
62 nits

These are still measured off the screen which I'm pleased with.


----------



## eieio

i upgraded very recently (1 month ago) from an 11-year old Epson 8700 to the 6050. at the same time, i upgraded my 11-year old Onkyo AVR to a Denon 4700, and changed my Verizon Fios DVR to the current generation of Fios DVRs (the Fios One TV).

i'm writing because i am noticing handshake issues when i switch inputs. for example, if i were watching cable tv via the Fios One TV DVR (i.e. live tv), and then switch over to my Roku Ultra, at times (often), the screen would remain blank (black)! the bottom right corner would say, iirc, HDMI1 No Signal.

waiting longer doesn't change anything, most often. The way to get rid of the black screen is to press a button on the remote so the Roku Ultra is sort of activated, and only then, would the screen display the Roku screen after a number of seconds, maybe around 10 or 15 seconds.

may i ask if any others have had these issues?

all HDMI cables were upgraded to Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified cables.

thank you in advance.


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> Yup. That has been a sorta common preference for some that I've seen, I just wanted to put some numbers behind it. I just recalibrated mine again (getting faster and cleaner) and these are the before after results
> 
> Default Eco/Natural, Iris = 0, Auto iris off
> 3400:1
> 72 nits
> 
> Calibrated Eco/Natural, Iris = -9, Auto iris off
> 4200:1
> 62 nits
> 
> These are still measured off the screen which I'm pleased with.


Is there a guide on calibration factoring in the manual iris setting? Or is this something where I need a luminance meter?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> Is there a guide on calibration factoring in the manual iris setting? Or is this something where I need a luminance meter?


If you are actually trying to hit a fL/nit level off the screen then you will need a meter that is designed to measure off the screen. But, I wouldn't worry too much. Just experiment with what looks good to you. The more you turn down the iris the more contrast you get. If you are looking for better black levels then just turn it down right until the point where you think its too dim and then turn it up one or two notches.

Here's the chart again but I added a column for percentage of white compared to the iris fully open, should be helpful.


Iris PositionWhiteBlackContrastWhite %089.950.0253598100%-286.950.024362397%-484.6750.023368294%-681.2250.02406190%-876.4750.018424985%-1072.20.017424780%-1266.5250.015443574%-1461.30.013471568%-1656.60.012471763%-1851.30.01513057%-2046.80.009520052%


----------



## fredworld

eieio said:


> i upgraded very recently (1 month ago) from an 11-year old Epson 8700 to the 6050. at the same time, i upgraded my 11-year old Onkyo AVR to a Denon 4700, and changed my Verizon Fios DVR to the current generation of Fios DVRs (the Fios One TV).
> 
> i'm writing because i am noticing handshake issues when i switch inputs. for example, if i were watching cable tv via the Fios One TV DVR (i.e. live tv), and then switch over to my Roku Ultra, at times (often), the screen would remain blank (black)! the bottom right corner would say, iirc, HDMI1 No Signal.
> 
> waiting longer doesn't change anything, most often. The way to get rid of the black screen is to press a button on the remote so the Roku Ultra is sort of activated, and only then, would the screen display the Roku screen after a number of seconds, maybe around 10 or 15 seconds.
> 
> may i ask if any others have had these issues?
> 
> all HDMI cables were upgraded to Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified cables.
> 
> thank you in advance.


I think 10 seconds is a normal HDMI handshake for switching inputs. As to your Roku, it might be powering down after a time of no activity. Don't worry about it. Essentially, I get the same.


----------



## eieio

fredworld said:


> I think 10 seconds is a normal HDMI handshake for switching inputs. As to your Roku, it might be powering down after a time of no activity. Don't worry about it. Essentially, I get the same.


@fredworld:

May i ask how you wake up your roku please?

Thanks.


----------



## Enchy

HDMI handshake on mine is ~10 seconds as well. It's actually kind of annoying because with the HDFury it has to renegotiate whenever it gets a Dolby Vision signal so I have to pause whatever I'm watching and wait until the EDIDs work themselves out.



eieio said:


> @fredworld:
> 
> May i ask how you wake up your roku please?
> 
> Thanks.


I'm not Fredworld but I wake my roku either through my Harmony routine (which just hits the home button) or manually hitting the home button on the remote.


----------



## fredworld

eieio said:


> @fredworld:
> 
> May i ask how you wake up your roku please?
> 
> Thanks.


I press Home button or any of the direct app buttons.


----------



## Werewolf79

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you are actually trying to hit a fL/nit level off the screen then you will need a meter that is designed to measure off the screen. But, I wouldn't worry too much. Just experiment with what looks good to you. The more you turn down the iris the more contrast you get. If you are looking for better black levels then just turn it down right until the point where you think its too dim and then turn it up one or two notches.
> 
> Here's the chart again but I added a column for percentage of white compared to the iris fully open, should be helpful.
> 
> 
> Iris PositionWhiteBlackContrastWhite %089.950.0253598100%-286.950.024362397%-484.6750.023368294%-681.2250.02406190%-876.4750.018424985%-1072.20.017424780%-1266.5250.015443574%-1461.30.013471568%-1656.60.012471763%-1851.30.01513057%-2046.80.009520052%


The black levels don’t look right, I have the same meter and I measured the exact reading that I think Secrets of Home Theater did in their review, which is 0.004 blacks with Iris off, I measured at the limit of the meter which was 0.001 with the Auto iris on.

I ran into some issues with this projector, sometimes when switching the auto iris off something would malfunction and black levels read wrong, they read bad and the image looked a lot lighter in pure black than it should when using a 0 ire pattern, I fixed this by a simple on and off of the projector, obviously I allowed cool down first, a few hours.

I use -16 on the manual iris and even after 1100 hours of bulb use and a recent re-calibration it produces 16ft lambert on Eco, admittedly my screen is only 92 inches but that’s the maximum the room allows.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Werewolf79 said:


> The black levels don’t look right, I have the same meter and I measured the exact reading that I think Secrets of Home Theater did in their review, which is 0.004 blacks with Iris off, I measured at the limit of the meter which was 0.001 with the Auto iris on.
> 
> I ran into some issues with this projector, sometimes when switching the auto iris off something would malfunction and black levels read wrong, they read bad and the image looked a lot lighter in pure black than it should when using a 0 ire pattern, I fixed this by a simple on and off of the projector, obviously I allowed cool down first, a few hours.
> 
> I use -16 on the manual iris and even after 1100 hours of bulb use and a recent re-calibration it produces 16ft lambert on Eco, admittedly my screen is only 92 inches but that’s the maximum the room allows.


Auto iris was off for all my measurements and that was intended.


----------



## eieio

Enchy said:


> HDMI handshake on mine is ~10 seconds as well. It's actually kind of annoying because with the HDFury it has to renegotiate whenever it gets a Dolby Vision signal so I have to pause whatever I'm watching and wait until the EDIDs work themselves out.
> 
> I'm not Fredworld but I wake my roku either through my Harmony routine (which just hits the home button) or manually hitting the home button on the remote.


@Enchy and @fredworld:

like both of you, after seeing the black screen for, say, 10 to 20 seconds, i would then press the Roku remote's center button (the OK/select button) and only then, after yet another 10 to 15 second wait, would Roku's aquarium screensaver appear.

might this be normal behavior or is something wrong please?

thank you.


----------



## eieio

fredworld said:


> I think 10 seconds is a normal HDMI handshake for switching inputs.* As to your Roku, it might be powering down after a time of no activity. Don't worry about it. Essentially, I get the same.*


may i ask if it would be wise or UNwise to try to see if Roku Ultra has a setting that would NOT power down after a period of no activity?


----------



## fredworld

eieio said:


> may i ask if it would be wise or UNwise to try to see if Roku Ultra has a setting that would NOT power down after a period of no activity?


Dunno, but we're veering off topic. Try your question in *this Roku Forum*.


----------



## eieio

fredworld said:


> Dunno, but* we're veering off topic*. Try your question in *this Roku Forum*.


i'm not so sure if this is indeed off topic, as this is directly related to my black screen, and, on the bottom left corner, it says HDMI 1 No Input, which is from the Epson 6050.

so any special adjustments to any input device necessary, due to handshake issues with the Epson 6050 would be relevant, right?


----------



## DLCPhoto

eieio said:


> may i ask if it would be wise or UNwise to try to see if Roku Ultra has a setting that would NOT power down after a period of no activity?


I recently found my Roku was turning off after a period of time, which I hadn't seen before. I went to System Settings and there was an option there to prevent it from turning off. I wouldn't have thought this was a new setting, but I hadn't changed anything, and haven't run into that problem in the last year or more since I've had it.

But certainly no reason to not try it and see what happens. But what makes me think this is an HDMI issue instead, is that I think you mentioned it finally went to the Aquarium Screensaver when it finally synced. If it was actually turning off, I would have guessed it would go straight to the Home Menu when booting up. But best to just try and see.


----------



## Werewolf79

PixelPusher15 said:


> Auto iris was off for all my measurements and that was intended.


Yes but even with auto iris off the measurement should be around 0.004 not 0.009, assuming It was calibrated.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Werewolf79 said:


> Yes but even with auto iris off the measurement should be around 0.004 not 0.009, assuming It was calibrated.


If you are reading 16fL off your screen (55 nits) for white and .004 for black then you would have a 13750:1 contrast ratio which is more than double some of the best measured 5050/6050s. My measurements are pretty inline with what would be expected when measured off the screen. Things will probably get a bit better if measured off the lens but no where near 14k:1.


----------



## djfredj

Just turned mine (6050) on for the first time. Funny static artifact even with no input and everything else is black. Do I have a dud? It appears to be the dead centre of the projection. Wait time was 3 months for delivery _smh_


----------



## jaredmwright

djfredj said:


> Just turned mine (6050) on for the first time. Funny static artifact even with no input and everything else is black. Do I have a dud? It appears to be the dead centre of the projection. Wait time was 3 months for delivery _smh_


Definitely looks faulty unfortunately. Good luck getting it resolved.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

djfredj said:


> Just turned mine (6050) on for the first time. Funny static artifact even with no input and everything else is black. Do I have a dud? It appears to be the dead centre of the projection. Wait time was 3 months for delivery _smh_


Try switching your HDMI cable to HDMI 2. I had weird problems with HDMI 1. You have nothing to lose by trying it. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Werewolf79

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you are reading 16fL off your screen (55 nits) for white and .004 for black then you would have a 13750:1 contrast ratio which is more than double some of the best measured 5050/6050s. My measurements are pretty inline with what would be expected when measured off the screen. Things will probably get a bit better if measured off the lens but no where near 14k:1.


I take the measurements off the screen and the meter is reading accurately, it has meter correction software built in and I regularly get it checked by the dealer.

The contrast is nearer 4500:1 and black level is 0.004 ft Lambert, I use Chromapure. The iris gets it down to 0.001 ft Lambert, the maximum the meter goes down to.

This is not rocket science, the reading is correct and repeatable,


----------



## PixelPusher15

Werewolf79 said:


> I take the measurements off the screen and the meter is reading accurately, it has meter correction software built in and I regularly get it checked by the dealer.
> 
> The contrast is nearer 4500:1 and black level is 0.004 ft Lambert, I use Chromapure. The iris gets it down to 0.001 ft Lambert, the maximum the meter goes down to.


Ohhh wait, you reading everything in fL. All my measurements are in nits. 0.004 fL = .00137 nits so that would mean our measurements are very much in line with each other. 16fL/.004fL = 4000:1 contrast.


----------



## Werewolf79

PixelPusher15 said:


> Ohhh wait, you reading everything in fL. All my measurements are in nits. 0.004 fL = .00137 nits so that would mean our measurements are very much in line with each other. 16fL/.004fL = 4000:1 contrast.


Ha well no wonder there was confusion lol

I just hope Epson does not abandon this segment of the market, I still think they can add things to a new model, the laser models are higher priced and a different market,


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you are actually trying to hit a fL/nit level off the screen then you will need a meter that is designed to measure off the screen. But, I wouldn't worry too much. Just experiment with what looks good to you. The more you turn down the iris the more contrast you get. If you are looking for better black levels then just turn it down right until the point where you think its too dim and then turn it up one or two notches.
> 
> Here's the chart again but I added a column for percentage of white compared to the iris fully open, should be helpful.
> 
> 
> Iris PositionWhiteBlackContrastWhite %089.950.0253598100%-286.950.024362397%-484.6750.023368294%-681.2250.02406190%-876.4750.018424985%-1072.20.017424780%-1266.5250.015443574%-1461.30.013471568%-1656.60.012471763%-1851.30.01513057%-2046.80.009520052%


Thanks for this. I ended up playing with the Iris settings last night and got SDR content to look a bit better to my eye.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> Thanks for this. I ended up playing with the Iris settings last night and got SDR content to look a bit better to my eye.


No problem. I'm happy to help others improve PQ, even a little bit. Run some brightness and contrast ramps now. I realized with some experimenting that as you bring down the manual iris it will have a tendency to crush blacks and clip whites. But that is fixable with a tweak to brightness/contrast.


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> No problem. I'm happy to help others improve PQ, even a little bit. Run some brightness and control ramps now. I realized with some experimenting that as you bring down the manual iris it will have a tendency to crush blacks and clip whites.


Good call. I'll go through the Spears and Munsil disk tonight.


----------



## DLCPhoto

eieio said:


> i upgraded very recently (1 month ago) from an 11-year old Epson 8700 to the 6050. at the same time, i upgraded my 11-year old Onkyo AVR to a Denon 4700, and changed my Verizon Fios DVR to the current generation of Fios DVRs (the Fios One TV).
> 
> i'm writing because i am noticing handshake issues when i switch inputs. for example, if i were watching cable tv via the Fios One TV DVR (i.e. live tv), and then switch over to my Roku Ultra, at times (often), the screen would remain blank (black)! the bottom right corner would say, iirc, HDMI1 No Signal.
> 
> waiting longer doesn't change anything, most often. The way to get rid of the black screen is to press a button on the remote so the Roku Ultra is sort of activated, and only then, would the screen display the Roku screen after a number of seconds, maybe around 10 or 15 seconds.
> 
> may i ask if any others have had these issues?
> 
> all HDMI cables were upgraded to Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified cables.
> 
> thank you in advance.





DLCPhoto said:


> I recently found my Roku was turning off after a period of time, which I hadn't seen before. I went to System Settings and there was an option there to prevent it from turning off. I wouldn't have thought this was a new setting, but I hadn't changed anything, and haven't run into that problem in the last year or more since I've had it.
> 
> But certainly no reason to not try it and see what happens. But what makes me think this is an HDMI issue instead, is that I think you mentioned it finally went to the Aquarium Screensaver when it finally synced. If it was actually turning off, I would have guessed it would go straight to the Home Menu when booting up. But best to just try and see.


I just learned that the most recent update to the Roku OS added a feature to turn off the Roku after 20 minutes of inactivity, and that it is enabled by default. So I was correct in thinking that this was in fact something new added to the Roku. You can go into system settings for the Roku, and turn this off to avoid the problem of getting no signal from the Roku.


----------



## AKKS

Kieran said:


> Here's a preview:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson EH-LS12000B 4K projector brings big screen HDMI 2.1 gaming
> 
> 
> Two lasers with new 4K chips and [email protected] powers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.whathifi.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prices are quite high: £4100 and £4400 UK, which translates to almost (not quite) 2x the cost of the 5050UB's & 6050UB's USA street prices, respectively.
> Considering no mention of dynamic tone mapping (other than HDR10+ compatibility) and not native 4k resolution, and not any brighter... I don't see this as something to hold out for, if your price point is $3k or below. If you really must have 120hz / VRR gaming, then maybe this is your option within Epson's lineup.


I have 5050UB and it had some power problems and Best buy is offering for a replacement or refund.
This projector news grabbed my attention. I can put additional 2k.
Can I import it into US? Power specification says, AC 100 - 240 with 50- 60 HZ.
Will there be any customs duty?
My friend is in Ireland and he can buy and ship to me.
Any pointers here are of great help


----------



## PixelPusher15

AKKS said:


> I have 5050UB and it had some power problems and Best buy is offering for a replacement or refund.
> This projector news grabbed my attention. I can put additional 2k.
> Can I import it into US? Power specification says, AC 100 - 240 with 50- 60 HZ.
> Will there be any customs duty?
> My friend is in Ireland and he can buy and ship to me.
> Any pointers here are of great help


I’m confused by your flag. You’re in the states?

Here’s what I’d do. Buy a cheap good used projector locally and run that for 6 months until Epson releases it here so you then get a full warranty. You yourself are seeing that Epson doesn’t always have the best QC. I for sure wouldn’t import an Epson projector with no shot at replacing it if it has issues. Who knows? Maybe they have issues with the first batch


----------



## pottscb

Werewolf79 said:


> Ha well no wonder there was confusion lol
> 
> I just hope Epson does not abandon this segment of the market, I still think they can add things to a new model, the laser models are higher priced and a different market,


I’d also like to see a replacement for these…maybe 5060/6060. I just don’t use my pj often enough to justify paying a $2-3K up charge for lasers. I know many manufacturers are doing it cause it’s the only way they can get P3 color and still have usable lumens….but that’s not Epson, they got this figured out. 800 lumens with P3 is easily enough in a dark room. Anyway, I’d like to see these PJs with a 4x pixel shift and DTM for HDR for the same price…they could sell that for another 4 years.


----------



## Luminated67

PixelPusher15 said:


> I’m confused by your flag. You’re in the states?
> 
> Here’s what I’d do. Buy a cheap good used projector locally and run that for 6 months until Epson releases it here so you then get a full warranty. You yourself are seeing that Epson doesn’t always have the best QC. I for sure wouldn’t import an Epson projector with no shot at replacing it if it has issues. Who knows? Maybe they have issues with the first batch


100%, this would be the wiser thing to do. With the new LS12000B Epson are offering a 5yr warranty on laser engine so to not have that would be madness.


----------



## DigitalAV

eieio said:


> i upgraded very recently (1 month ago) from an 11-year old Epson 8700 to the 6050. at the same time, i upgraded my 11-year old Onkyo AVR to a Denon 4700, and changed my Verizon Fios DVR to the current generation of Fios DVRs (the Fios One TV).
> 
> i'm writing because i am noticing handshake issues when i switch inputs. for example, if i were watching cable tv via the Fios One TV DVR (i.e. live tv), and then switch over to my Roku Ultra, at times (often), the screen would remain blank (black)! the bottom right corner would say, iirc, HDMI1 No Signal.
> 
> waiting longer doesn't change anything, most often. The way to get rid of the black screen is to press a button on the remote so the Roku Ultra is sort of activated, and only then, would the screen display the Roku screen after a number of seconds, maybe around 10 or 15 seconds.
> 
> may i ask if any others have had these issues?
> 
> all HDMI cables were upgraded to Zeskit Maya 8K 48Gbps Certified cables.
> 
> thank you in advance.


Owning a Lumagen has taught me about HDMI edge rates -- since your projector is 18Gbps max input, going with a 48Gbps cable can cause problems depending on the quality of the inputs. HDMI is extraordinary finicky.

Maybe try a 18Gbps HDMI cable to your projector.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> Yup. That has been a sorta common preference for some that I've seen, I just wanted to put some numbers behind it. I just recalibrated mine again (getting faster and cleaner) and these are the before after results
> 
> Default Eco/Natural, Iris = 0, Auto iris off
> 3400:1
> 72 nits
> 
> Calibrated Eco/Natural, Iris = -9, Auto iris off
> 4200:1
> 62 nits
> 
> These are still measured off the screen which I'm pleased with.


Nice. I'm guessing this is SDR rec709 - from reading around, you want 16ftl which you should be able to set with the 100% white reading from the i1DP3 (certainly HCFR gives this) - It's how I set my Iris measurements!

Also in calibrating, try not to do much with the Epson 0 setting in Greyscale (gain only) and use cuts over gains on the low end as any gains here raise the black floor. The eye isn't that sensitive to colours in this region anyway


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> Auto iris was off for all my measurements and that was intended.


Yeah....You can't calibrate with auto iris on, it really messes up the measurements as it adjust down!
It is worth going through things again once you've set the manual iris though!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> Nice. I'm guessing this is SDR rec709 - from reading around, you want 16ftl which you should be able to set with the 100% white reading from the i1DP3 (certainly HCFR gives this) - It's how I set my Iris measurements!
> 
> Also in calibrating, try not to do much with the Epson 0 setting in Greyscale (gain only) and use cuts over gains on the low end as any gains here raise the black floor. The eye isn't that sensitive to colours in this region anyway


Yup yup. 62 nits is about 17fl which I say intentionally. I’d prefer it to be around 20fl for SDR but I’d be giving up too much on black levels.

For sure not touching 0 on greyscale. I have before to make the graphs pretty but then undo it lol


----------



## Alaric

AKKS said:


> I have 5050UB and it had some power problems and Best buy is offering for a replacement or refund.
> This projector news grabbed my attention. I can put additional 2k.
> Can I import it into US? Power specification says, AC 100 - 240 with 50- 60 HZ.
> Will there be any customs duty?
> My friend is in Ireland and he can buy and ship to me.
> Any pointers here are of great help


The LS12000 isn't even OUT in EU/UK yet. I'd expect 6 months before WE see it even. Dealers are just getting the LS11000 and we've yet to see much in reviews as to how good that model is. The LS12000 we expect to be better because contrast, lumens and calibration features , but most 9400 users are so far not particularly excited.

As for the rest, it'll work for sure. I'd expect DUTY though you may get lucky, but if shipped it'll likely get stung - Mostly i'd wait for the US release.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> The LS12000 isn't even OUT in EU/UK yet. I'd expect 6 months before WE see it even. Dealers are just getting the LS11000 and we've yet to see much in reviews as to how good that model is. The LS12000 we expect to be better because contrast, lumens and calibration features , but most 9400 users are so far not particularly excited.
> 
> As for the rest, it'll work for sure. I'd expect DUTY though you may get lucky, but if shipped it'll likely get stung - Mostly i'd wait for the US release.


Has there been delays over there? I thought when Epson first announced it they said they’d ship em by end of November


----------



## Alaric

pottscb said:


> I’d also like to see a replacement for these…maybe 5060/6060. I just don’t use my pj often enough to justify paying a $2-3K up charge for lasers. I know many manufacturers are doing it cause it’s the only way they can get P3 color and still have usable lumens….but that’s not Epson, they got this figured out. 800 lumens with P3 is easily enough in a dark room. Anyway, I’d like to see these PJs with a 4x pixel shift and DTM for HDR for the same price…they could sell that for another 4 years.


We've heard NOTHING on this front. I'd love an update to the 9400/6050 and whilst WE can all see there IS a market here, most of the high end PJ manufacturers seem to be leaving it wide open.

The lack of 3D probably knocks out the LS12000 for a lot of us, let alone the BIG bump in cost. 

On the upside they haven't obsoleted our projectors and we have the best image around for the cost!


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> Has there been delays over there? I thought when Epson first announced it they said they’d ship em by end of November


The LS12000 was a pre-production demo model at the show. The LS11000 is shipping in small quantities it seems.
This is VERY similar to the 7400 and the 9400. There was a big gap in them shipping the 9400 and despite a NOV date they didn't hit the UK until Jan and it was a bit of a slow roll then too with filling pre-orders.


----------



## biglen

Is anyone using MadVR with their 5050ub? I'm just wondering about the setting in MadVR, that asks how the display was calibrated. I'm not sure if I should set it to BT.709,or BT.2020, since I'm tone mapping SDR to HDR. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

kcnitro07 said:


> I'm curious your settings on your 5050UB, I've never "optimized" mine, just threw it on a pre-canned setting and started watching


@kcnitro07, tagging you here just to keep the other thread focused on the shootout. Here's what I'm running on my 123" screen that could be transferable to your 5050 without actual calibration:

Natural
Eco
Color temp set to 6000
Auto iris on
Gamma at -2 (Mine actually has a custom gamma with some pretty extreme drops. My target is a gamma of 2.4 and the -2 setting on my 5050 only gets me to ~2.15 but others have seen -2 get them to 2.4 so I'd just stick with -2)
Manual iris set to -9
The above settings on my screen (0.8 measured gain) get me to 17fL for SDR. For HDR, which I haven't calibrated yet, I will bump it to Medium and move the manual iris to -4. I've seen some adjust the gamma to -1 or 0 for HDR. If you are getting black crush in HDR with the gamma at -2 then try -1 or 0. 

I'm going to experiment with calibrating Bright Cinema for HDR as well just for its brightness but I wouldn't recommend using it unless you are cool with sacrificing color fidelity for brightness. I've also used Digital Cinema and the lamp at High for HDR and I really love the black levels and color but the image just doesn't quite pop enough. Fan noise is bad too. 

Make sure that you run Brightness and Contrast ramps to adjust for clipping. Don't run contrast ramps for HDR since there's going to be clipping no matter what you do because of how tone-mapping HDR works. This is more a personal preference thing of what amount of clipping you are ok with. The HDR slider will control a lot of that.


----------



## kcnitro07

PixelPusher15 said:


> @kcnitro07, tagging you here just to keep the other thread focused on the shootout. Here's what I'm running on my 123" screen that could be transferable to your 5050 without actual calibration:
> 
> Natural
> Eco
> Color temp set to 6000
> Auto iris on
> Gamma at -2 (Mine actually has a custom gamma with some pretty extreme drops. My target is a gamma of 2.4 and the -2 setting on my 5050 only gets me to ~2.15 but others have seen -2 get them to 2.4 so I'd just stick with -2)
> Manual iris set to -9
> The above settings on my screen (0.8 measured gain) get me to 17fL for SDR. For HDR, which I haven't calibrated yet, I will bump it to Medium and move the manual iris to -4. I've seen some adjust the gamma to -1 or 0 for HDR. If you are getting black crush in HDR with the gamma at -2 then try -1 or 0.
> 
> I'm going to experiment with calibrating Bright Cinema for HDR as well just for its brightness but I wouldn't recommend using it unless you are cool with sacrificing color fidelity for brightness. I've also used Digital Cinema and the lamp at High for HDR and I really love the black levels and color but the image just doesn't quite pop enough. Fan noise is bad too.
> 
> Make sure that you run Brightness and Contrast ramps to adjust for clipping. Don't run contrast ramps for HDR since there's going to be clipping no matter what you do because of how tone-mapping HDR works. This is more a personal preference thing of what amount of clipping you are ok with. The HDR slider will control a lot of that.


I’m gonna be honest, I don’t know most of what you just said 🤪


----------



## ricwhite

I honestly don't think the LS12000 will be worth twice the price of a 5050. I'm sure it will have some advantages, but for an extra $3000? I don't think so. We'll see once reviews start coming in. We need direct head-to-head comparisons between the LS12000 and the 5050UB. I bet the 5050 will be very competitive.


----------



## jaredmwright

ricwhite said:


> I honestly don't think the LS12000 will be worth twice the price of a 5050. I'm sure it will have some advantages, but for an extra $3000? I don't think so. We'll see once reviews start coming in. We need direct head-to-head comparisons between the LS12000 and the 5050UB. I bet the 5050 will be very competitive.


I am interested to see. I tend to agree with your statements. No one I know looks at my 6050 without coming away extremely impressed. It will take quite a bit for me to upgrade in the future.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## grayson

Can someone help please? 
Iv owned the tw-9400 for a month now, the US version is 6050ub.
I have an Nvidia Shield tv 2019 connected through a Denon amp. When I watch movies on the Shield with Kodi I am getting random frame skips. It happens about every 10 minutes or so. The camera will pan then it jumps slightly. It works fine when connected to my TV. Anyone experienced this, if so any tips? 

Thanks.


----------



## pottscb

grayson said:


> Can someone help please?
> Iv owned the tw-9400 for a month now, the US version is 6050ub.
> I have an Nvidia Shield tv 2019 connected through a Denon amp. When I watch movies on the Shield with Kodi I am getting random frame skips. It happens about every 10 minutes or so. The camera will pan then it jumps slightly. It works fine when connected to my TV. Anyone experienced this, if so any tips?
> 
> Thanks.





grayson said:


> Can someone help please?
> Iv owned the tw-9400 for a month now, the US version is 6050ub.
> I have an Nvidia Shield tv 2019 connected through a Denon amp. When I watch movies on the Shield with Kodi I am getting random frame skips. It happens about every 10 minutes or so. The camera will pan then it jumps slightly. It works fine when connected to my TV. Anyone experienced this, if so any tips?
> 
> Thanks.


Try a different, shorter, known working cable… They’re discussing this exact issue with your pj here:








Epson Projector Screen blacks out intermittently


I have a brand new Epson 4050 4K projector. Unfortunately, I am experiencing intermittent "blacking" of the screen. The external audio plays perfectly and the screen blacks out last 5-10 seconds. This occurs infrequently on both DVD's and streaming (Aapletv). If I rewind the DVD the screen...




www.avsforum.com





A RadioShack in my area went out of biz 10 yrs ago and I picked up some Monster HDMI for 80% off…wish I’d gotten more though they prob won’t work when I upgrade to 4K.


----------



## fredworld

grayson said:


> Can someone help please?
> Iv owned the tw-9400 for a month now, the US version is 6050ub.
> I have an Nvidia Shield tv 2019 connected through a Denon amp. When I watch movies on the Shield with Kodi I am getting random frame skips. It happens about every 10 minutes or so. The camera will pan then it jumps slightly. It works fine when connected to my TV. Anyone experienced this, if so any tips?
> 
> Thanks.


I think you're experiencing a frame rate discrepancy issue. I get teh same on some streaming services, notably Netflix. The referenced post in the previous reply talks about a blanking issue, I didn't read any mention of a frame skip there. Anyway, someone with more knowledge on frame rates will hopefully respond with more specifics.


----------



## Alaric

fredworld said:


> I think you're experiencing a frame rate discrepancy issue. I get teh same on some streaming services, notably Netflix. The referenced post in the previous reply talks about a blanking issue, I didn't read any mention of a frame skip there. Anyway, someone with more knowledge on frame rates will hopefully respond with more specifics.


Yeah....It sounds like tearing. I'm guessing film stuff on Netflix and the shield is outputting 60hz or you are trying to force 24p from the shield and you have 24p->60hz->24P going on. I've literally just bought a ATV 4K to get native 24P from Netflix and Disney+ (Amazon on my ATV, frame rate matches).

FYI i've also noticed this when playing with my ATV stick and using the LLDV hack, every once in a while, you get a dropped frame or something


----------



## Enchy

The most interesting feature of the LS12000 to me is the [email protected] capabilities, but it's not $6000 interesting to me.

The LS12000 is native 4K as well, right? Or is it still pixel shifting?


----------



## pottscb

Enchy said:


> The most interesting feature of the LS12000 to me is the [email protected] capabilities, but it's not $6000 interesting to me.
> 
> The LS12000 is native 4K as well, right? Or is it still pixel shifting?


Shifting 4x instead of twice…this should help in contrast but the prelim measurements don’t bear this out…agreed on $6K…I’d buy native before doing that. This whole 4K implementation in projectors has been so botched… I vote we NEVER move to 8K…can you imagine?!? We’ll have to stand on our head and only look through one eye to perceive the difference…which will cost 600% more than 4K and there will be no source for at least 25 yrs after its “adoption.” I think hardware manufacturers better start thinking up another scheme than increasing pixel count…


----------



## Enchy

pottscb said:


> Shifting 4x instead of twice…this should help in contrast but the prelim measurements don’t bear this out…agreed on $6K…I’d buy native before doing that.


Yeah for $6k you can get the NX5. That'd be a pretty easy decision for me.


----------



## b_scott

any new info on the next Epson? Perhaps a 5060 or something? Seems like it's getting close to time for a refresh, maybe native 4K/60/HDR.


----------



## jbn008

Enchy said:


> Yeah for $6k you can get the NX5. That'd be a pretty easy decision for me.


I've owned the NX5 twice (also owned a NX7 for 2 years), and currently own a 6050. If the LS12000 increases pixel density with 4x "eshift", and has a decent laser dimming system I would easily take that over the NX5. The 6050's lens is much better than all 3 JVC NXs I owned, not to mention the better input lag (of course this is irrelevant if not gaming). I also find that the Epson has more pop in brighter scenes, which I appreciate. Both are/ should be great choices


----------



## Alaric

b_scott said:


> any new info on the next Epson? Perhaps a 5060 or something? Seems like it's getting close to time for a refresh, maybe native 4K/60/HDR.


Nope. Nothing. Nada.

Current theory is that they're focusing attention on the LS models. The roll out there is slow and i'm guessing impacted by chip shortages, material supplies and covid disruptions. 

I'd _LIKE_ to see an updated model bulb model. Won't be Native 4K as the LS isn't and the price would end up being in similar territory. A better HDR filter, a bit more contrast/lumens and some DTM would be good. But frankly I see it as unlikely because it would eat into LS sales.

Heck people are not even sure if the current 5050/6050 are being continued!


----------



## Kieran

Alaric said:


> Nope. Nothing. Nada.
> 
> Current theory is that they're focusing attention on the LS models. The roll out there is slow and i'm guessing impacted by chip shortages, material supplies and covid disruptions.
> 
> I'd _LIKE_ to see an updated model bulb model. Won't be Native 4K as the LS isn't and the price would end up being in similar territory. A better HDR filter, a bit more contrast/lumens and some DTM would be good. But frankly I see it as unlikely because it would eat into LS sales.
> 
> Heck people are not even sure if the current 5050/6050 are being continued!


You're joking, right? We've discussed the LS12000 in this very thread. Here's an article on it from whathifi :








Epson EH-LS12000B 4K projector brings big screen HDMI 2.1 gaming


Two lasers with new 4K chips and [email protected] powers




www.whathifi.com





It's got a laser engine, and what sounds like some sort of DTM (TBC) but it is not native 4K - it's a shifter with 4x shifting instead of the 5050's 2x shifting.

It's slightly brighter by specs than the 5050 at 2700 lumens.

A big feature / selling point seems to be the low-lag for gaming, as well as 4k/120Hz for gaming.

It (and it's lesser sibling the LS11000) is (are) way more expensive than both the 5050 and 6050 though, and not yet available in the USA.


----------



## Kieran

From 2 New Epson Laser Projectors For Home Cinema: EH-LS12000B and EH-LS11000W


> It’s anticipated that the Epson 5060 will sell for around $5,500 while the Epson 6060 will retail for around $5,900.


Unless they are offering very good DTM, I think these prices are completely out of touch. The LG 810 already has laser, e-shift 4k, DTM, and HDR with great color and contrast. To price these new products at almost 2x the price of the 5050 and 810 is not competitive. At $5500-$5900 I'd be looking at stepping up to JVC with their superior DTM and native 4k.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> From 2 New Epson Laser Projectors For Home Cinema: EH-LS12000B and EH-LS11000W
> 
> Unless they are offering very good DTM, I think these prices are completely out of touch. The LG 810 already has laser, e-shift 4k, DTM, and HDR with great color and contrast. To price these new products at almost 2x the price of the 5050 and 810 is not competitive. At $5500-$5900 I'd be looking at stepping up to JVC with their superior DTM and native 4k.


I wish these numbers would stop getting repeated. People keep straight converting the VAT included price to USD. Including in that article. Epson hasn't priced any of their stuff this way before so there is no reason to believe they'd do it now. IIRC the non-VAT price converts to $4500-5100 for the two models. 

I also don't know where these 5060/6060 numbers are coming from. No one other than forum speculators has said those model numbers. (Not directed at you Kieran). We don't know what the LS11000/12000 will be called here and we don't know what they will do with the 5050/6050 but there currently is no reason to believe they will discontinue them.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> I wish these numbers would stop getting repeated. People keep straight converting the VAT included price to USD. Including in that article. Epson hasn't priced any of their stuff this way before so there is no reason to believe they'd do it now. IIRC the non-VAT price converts to $4500-5100 for the two models.
> 
> I also don't know where these 5060/6060 numbers are coming from. No one other than forum speculators has said those model numbers. (Not directed at you Kieran). We don't know what the LS11000/12000 will be called here and we don't know what they will do with the 5050/6050 but there currently is no reason to believe they will discontinue them.


You had corrected me on the VAT point before, and I forgot, so mea culpa.
However, that article is from projectorscreen.com which is an Epson vendor. They are saying they expect these models will arrive in the USA as the 5060/6060... that's their expectation as Epson retailers who've been selling the UB series for many years now. That is still "expectation" / speculation, but carries a lot more weight than forum members making assumptions (myself included).


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> You had corrected me on the VAT point before, and I forgot, so mea culpa.
> However, that article is from projectorscreen.com which is an Epson vendor. They are saying they expect these models will arrive in the USA as the 5060/6060... that's their expectation as Epson retailers who've been selling the UB series for many years now. That is still "expectation" / speculation, but carries a lot more weight than forum members making assumptions (myself included).


Yeah, that article was written by @ProjectionHead. And he can correct me if I'm wrong but it was just speculation on his part. He also said Epson has been super tight-lipped on anything related to it. I'm not sure if it was him or Mike Garret but they won't give a model number or even confirm it's coming to the US. I believe it was Brian (ProjectionHead) that said there were multiple occasions where something was supposed to be announced this year but were delayed/canceled. 

I'd be curious if anything has changed on this, Brian. Has Epson spilled a bean or two yet?


----------



## Kieran

All that said, I still think that $4500-$5000 for these projectors is overpriced. That's 50% higher, and I don't see the specs indicating something that is 50% better; not when the LG 810 exists at the same price as the 5050. IMO, based on the specs of the LS12000 and LS11000, a reasonable bump for these would be $3500 and $4000 for the "5060 and 6060" respectively, if they were to be called that.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

FYI:
I wrote Epson inquiring about the LS12000 and the lifespan of the laser engine, and if one could replace it at home or if it could be replaced at service center if it were worn out.
You cannot change it yourself,which means a user like me that puts 3-4k hrs on my projector a year,i would be forced to either scrap a possibly completely fine and working device or send it in for a complete light engine replacement,which i am sure won't be cheap.. Epson couldnt give a specific price without a serial number which i of course don't have.
I remember my old Sim2 CRT had 10k hrs lifespan on the tubes which took me precisely 10 years to reach as i only used projector for movie nights, but now i only use projector for all viewing and if the 20k hrs lifespan on the laser holds up i would have to replace light engine in 5-6 years or buy a new projector.. I really don't like discarding perfectly working electronics but thats just me.
I know most people here won't care,but in this day and age with dwindling resources i find this a bit worrying. Of course if Epson were to discontinue making lamps for my 9400 before EOL of projector,we would be in the same situation..

I do like the presumably completely sealed light engine and optics and never having to replace anything as a convenience in the laser projectors though.

Just me pondering the laser v lamp


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> All that said, I still think that $4500-$5000 for these projectors is overpriced. That's 50% higher, and I don't see the specs indicating something that is 50% better; not when the LG 810 exists at the same price as the 5050. IMO, based on the specs of the LS12000 and LS11000, a reasonable bump for these would be $3500 and $4000 for the "5060 and 6060" respectively, if they were to be called that.


100% agree


----------



## Luminated67

Kieran said:


> You had corrected me on the VAT point before, and I forgot, so mea culpa.
> However, that article is from projectorscreen.com which is an Epson vendor. They are saying they expect these models will arrive in the USA as the 5060/6060... that's their expectation as Epson retailers who've been selling the UB series for many years now. That is still "expectation" / speculation, but carries a lot more weight than forum members making assumptions (myself included).


Do Epson sell the LS300 and LS500 in the US, did they sell the LS10000 and LS10500 in the past?

If the answer it YES on all counts then why would they rename these when they arrive?


----------



## Archaea

Kieran said:


> All that said, I still think that $4500-$5000 for these projectors is overpriced. That's 50% higher, and I don't see the specs indicating something that is 50% better; not when the LG 810 exists at the same price as the 5050. IMO, based on the specs of the LS12000 and LS11000, a reasonable bump for these would be $3500 and $4000 for the "5060 and 6060" respectively, if they were to be called that.


LG 810 is not a competitor to this generation Epson 5050UB, nor next LS12000. For SDR it's not even a competitor to previous Epson 5040UB. IMO.

Post 9698 is my opinion on the LG 810 vs. the 5050UB after A/B ing them in the same room last weekend.








Kansas City Area Home Theater Meets and Movie Night Events!


Sounds like I’m coming, Archaea has provided location and will be riding together.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## Kieran

Archaea said:


> LG 810 is not a competitor to this generation Epson 5050UB, nor next LS12000. For SDR it's not even a competitor to previous Epson 5040UB. IMO.
> 
> Post 9698 is my opinion on the LG 810 vs. the 5050UB after A/B ing them in the same room last weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kansas City Area Home Theater Meets and Movie Night Events!
> 
> 
> Sounds like I’m coming, Archaea has provided location and will be riding together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Yep, I saw your thread and posts. I think it is a competitor; it depends on the individual and the room, screen, conditions, etc. Obviously I am very fond of my Epson and don't regret it at all. But the 810 still exists, with DTM, e-shift 4k, and a laser light source, at $3k. I have to say if these protectors existed in the US, and I couldn't have my 5050, I would probably choose the LG at $3k, over a 5060 at $4500.


----------



## Enchy

Also worth pointing out the 810 has roughly double the lag of the 5050, making it a tougher sell for anyone who'll be gaming on their projector. That alone was enough to make me cross it off my list.


----------



## Kieran

Enchy said:


> Also worth pointing out the 810 has roughly double the lag of the 5050, making it a tougher sell for anyone who'll be gaming on their projector. That alone was enough to make me cross it off my list.


Fair. I don't game, though.
Must be the DTM processing that causes the lag?? Does it improve in sdr mode?


----------



## Enchy

Kieran said:


> Fair. I don't game, though.
> Must be the DTM processing that causes the lag?? Does it improve in sdr mode?


Not sure. It has a dedicated "game mode" which usually reduces processing to lower latency. The numbers in game mode are around 50ms, compared to the 5050ub's 25ish. The vast majority of my gaming these days is in HDR, and with the Xbox Series X I'm playing in Dolby Vision on the 5050ub. Looks incredible.


----------



## blubbers

Hello, I am thinking about purchasing a 5050ub for my *10.5’x10.5’ *room. I am trying for around a ~90” screen.
On the Epson website, it says that the throw distance minimum is *10.3’*. Does this mean that it’s the minimum distance that it can be used? Or is this a suggestion for say a 100” screen?
Do you guys think this projector would work in such a small room? The projector itself is 17” so even if it’s two inches away from my back wall, at 10.5’ I’d be left with 8.9’ of distance - which according to a projector throw calculator, _should_ give me enough to make a 85-90” screen. The big question I have is the 10.3’ minimum throw.


----------



## DavidK442

blubbers said:


> Hello, I am thinking about purchasing a 5050ub for my *10.5’x10.5’ *room. _should_ give me enough to make a 85-90” screen.


For that size of screen go with a flat panel. There are projectors with a shorter throw that will give you a larger picture, but nothing that comes close to the Epson.


----------



## Enchy

Yeah for the price of the Epson + screen I'd go for an 85" LED-LCD if you're only getting a 90" image.


----------



## blubbers

Thank you very much for the replies. I liked the idea of being able to go bigger in a few years when I move. Would a 5050ub at that close be ‘too close’? As in I’d get spotlighting, decreased PQ, etc.?


----------



## Archaea

I also vote big OLED if doing less than about 120” the image quality trade off isn’t worth it.

As to going less than minimum distance it likely has a minimum distance based on the lens focus range and mechanical limitation. As in, if closer than X or more distant than Y, the focus can no longer be adjusted properly. IE, though the screen size can be six inches across if you put the projector close to the wall, you’d never be able to adjust focus to be able to see anything. I don’t know this for sure, but that is my hunch after trying to focus in various projectors outside of the max throw distance. You should probably call Epson support to validate though, they are easy to get a hold of and it would be worthwhile to ensure it wouldn’t be a problem.

Once again I refrain, buy a big OLED instead. 5050UB can’t touch an OLED projector picture, and if the size is that close, why consider otherwise. When you move in the future you can re-asses the then current market and buy a projector.


----------



## PixelPusher15

I'm going to channel my inner bud16415. @blubbers, there is technically another option if you are up for some DIY hackery. Well, there's actually 2 more options. First is the hackiest and that is you could project the 5050 off a mirror to extend the throw distance. It probably won't be the most aesthetically pleasing option, but it is an option. The other is to get something like this: 








ZOMEI Ultra Slim 77/72/67/62/58/55mm 0.45x AF Wide Angle MC Lens for Canon Nikon | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for ZOMEI Ultra Slim 77/72/67/62/58/55mm 0.45x AF Wide Angle MC Lens for Canon Nikon at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com




As reviewed/described here:


TEST: WALIMEX PRO MC AF DIGITAL WIDE CONVERTER 0,45 – Größere Bilder im Heimkino mit 19 Euro Weitwinkel-Vorsatzlinse – Michael B. Rehders



I'm not sure how much bigger it will make it for you and there is a little bit of warping to the image but it doesn't look that bad and if this isn't an end game room then that might be ok. 

Ok, I've got even more options/suggestions. You could also look at getting a short throw projector for under $1k that would just hold you over for the time being. The BenQ 2150ST is a really good 1080p beamer and would allow you to go as large as that 10.5' room allows (130"). You could also get something like the HT3550 or TK850 which would give you a ~110" image but these are getting pricey for a potential short term solution. If you go the temp projector route I'd try to see if I could scoop up a refurb or used BenQ 2150ST. 

All that being said, an 85" LCD or OLED would be much more impressive in that room. The only thing that would really have a shot at winning the "impressive" battle would be the 2150ST since you could literally turn an entire wall into a screen. Well, the mirrored 5050 would be able to do it too and that'd be dope if you can make it not jank.


----------



## Alaric

Kieran said:


> You're joking, right? We've discussed the LS12000 in this very thread. Here's an article on it from whathifi :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson EH-LS12000B 4K projector brings big screen HDMI 2.1 gaming
> 
> 
> Two lasers with new 4K chips and [email protected] powers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.whathifi.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's got a laser engine, and what sounds like some sort of DTM (TBC) but it is not native 4K - it's a shifter with 4x shifting instead of the 5050's 2x shifting.
> 
> It's slightly brighter by specs than the 5050 at 2700 lumens.
> 
> A big feature / selling point seems to be the low-lag for gaming, as well as 4k/120Hz for gaming.
> 
> It (and it's lesser sibling the LS11000) is (are) way more expensive than both the 5050 and 6050 though, and not yet available in the USA.



AHHHH. I think you've miss understood, or i did with @b_scott 's question!

Yes there's the LS12000 which is certainly "Something else"

A new 5060 - ie reasonably priced bulb update of the 5050, we've got NO info on and even talk of the existing PJ being discontinued


----------



## Alaric

Archaea said:


> LG 810 is not a competitor to this generation Epson 5050UB, nor next LS12000. For SDR it's not even a competitor to previous Epson 5040UB. IMO.


I got quite excited by @Kieran 's mention of this. However a quick look at a review and MEH. DLP, low contrast, not great colours. All the buzzwords but non of the on screen delivery 

And YES DLPs seem to be adding lasers (1500 lumens, whoop) and some form of DTM and some even have "true 4k" 4x pixel shifting chips. They're also likely to be sharper as the single chip has no convergence. 
However they also tend to add their own issues to the mix like rainbows, poor colours and terrible contrast and black levels, poor lens shift, lack of motorisation, lens memory and so forth.

I'd _LOVE_ to see one get close to the 5050, but they really need to sort the basic projection stuff out first, before adding the whizzbangs


----------



## eastdigital

Hello All, 
For the past few weeks I have been doing my own comparison of Epson 5050UB and LG HU810. I am not an expert or videophile by any means but do enjoy larger screen size and feel like both will provide us with a good picture. In addition, these projectors give me enough vertical/horizontal shift to throw 150" screen. I am leaning a little towards 5050UB but my only concern is having a dedicated receiver. Seems like good 7.2 receivers are really scarce. 
My video source is PS5. 
I have a friend who can lend me his AVR-1513 (Basic non-4K Denon). Before I commit to a 5 hour drive to pick it up, 
My question is, can I send the signal from 5050 to Denon receiver for just sound? and still get the 4k image from PS5. Or will I need to shell out for a 4K receiver? 

Thanks


----------



## PixelPusher15

eastdigital said:


> Hello All,
> For the past few weeks I have been doing my own comparison of Epson 5050UB and LG HU810. I am not an expert or videophile by any means but do enjoy larger screen size and feel like both will provide us with a good picture. In addition, these projectors give me enough vertical/horizontal shift to throw 150" screen. I am leaning a little towards 5050UB but my only concern is having a dedicated receiver. Seems like good 7.2 receivers are really scarce.
> My video source is PS5.
> I have a friend who can lend me his AVR-1513 (Basic non-4K Denon). Before I commit to a 5 hour drive to pick it up,
> My question is, can I send the signal from 5050 to Denon receiver for just sound? and still get the 4k image from PS5. Or will I need to shell out for a 4K receiver?
> 
> Thanks


A capable 4K 7.2 receiver from Costco is only $440 (Denon S760). Go with that. Otherwise, you can split the audio from the video with a splitter/switch and send video to the projector and audio to the receiver.


----------



## eastdigital

PixelPusher15 said:


> A capable 4K 7.2 receiver from Costco is only $440 (Denon S760). Go with that. Otherwise, you can split the audio from the video with a splitter/switch and send video to the projector and audio to the receiver.


S760 is what I really wanted but it's not at my local Costco or even online. 
Will something like this https://www.amazon.com/NEWCARE-Extr...r/dp/B08V4NDP6K/ref=psdc_172546_t1_B07ZNKF7C8 work?


----------



## eieio

@blubbers: i can tell what answer you'd like to hear, and i can of course read what virtually everyone else is saying to you. what i can do to try to assist is to relay my own experience which is relevant to your situation:

roughly a month ago, i upgraded my bedroom TV and living room projector, plus all the related equipment, like the respective two AVRs, Roku Ultras, etc.

Bedroom TV went from an older Sony to a Sony 77A80J. Living room projector went from an Epson 8700 to the 6050.

the Sony 77A80J OLED got installed roughly one week prior to the living room's upgrade to the Epson 6050.

the 77A80J OLED is unbelievable. it really is an awesome tv. the quality of the image is simply beautiful. the richness of the blacks must be seen to be appreciated.

the living room's Epson 6050 got installed a week later. it is very good - yes, but relative to the bedroom's new tv? there is not even a comparison. there is just no way the richness of the blacks (and other colors) can match. it's not even a competition.

caveat emptor.


----------



## Enchy

eastdigital said:


> S760 is what I really wanted but it's not at my local Costco or even online.
> Will something like this https://www.amazon.com/NEWCARE-Extr...r/dp/B08V4NDP6K/ref=psdc_172546_t1_B07ZNKF7C8 work?


If you're not opposed to buying refurbished, Accessories 4 Less has an x1600h for $500. DENON AVR-X1600H 7.2-Ch x 80 Watts A/V Receiver w/HEOS


----------



## Kieran

Enchy said:


> and with the Xbox Series X I'm playing in Dolby Vision on the 5050ub. Looks incredible.


I take it you're using a HDFury with the EDID spoofing hack then? I'm still on the fence on whether to invest in an HDFury for this purpose.


----------



## Enchy

Kieran said:


> I take it you're using a HDFury with the EDID spoofing hack then? I'm still on the fence on whether to invest in an HDFury for this purpose.


Yep. Using an Integral 2. Been playing Forza Horizon 5 in Dolby Vision and it is really something else. 

Only annoying thing is having to manually force the Epson into HDR mode when watching something with Dolby Vision. Not the end of the world as I have a Harmony macro setup, but it does lead to times like last night where I watch 3 minutes of a movie wondering why the colors look off only to realize I still had it forcing HDR.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> If you're not opposed to buying refurbished, Accessories 4 Less has an x1600h for $500. DENON AVR-X1600H 7.2-Ch x 80 Watts A/V Receiver w/HEOS


@eastdigital there's also refurbs directly from Denon: Denon's Latest Product Specials | Denon™ 
Apparently, any of the HDMI 2.1 refurbs from them have the updated HDMI 2.1 boards so no need for an adapter. If you need that. Which you wouldn't with just a 5050. The 750 on there for only $350 seems like a pretty good deal


----------



## eastdigital

PixelPusher15 said:


> @eastdigital there's also refurbs directly from Denon: Denon's Latest Product Specials | Denon™
> Apparently, any of the HDMI 2.1 refurbs from them have the updated HDMI 2.1 boards so no need for an adapter. If you need that. Which you wouldn't with just a 5050. The 750 on there for only $350 seems like a pretty good deal


Thanks! That is a great deal. So I'm guessing the previous 2.1 HDMI were not working with 5050?


----------



## Enchy

eastdigital said:


> Thanks! That is a great deal. So I'm guessing the previous 2.1 HDMI were not working with 5050?


There was an issue with the original lineup of HDMI 2.1 receivers and 4K 120Hz content. The Epson can't do 4K 120Hz so it's irrelevant. Either will work with the Epson. My x3700h has the bug and works fine with this projector.


----------



## eastdigital

Enchy said:


> There was an issue with the original lineup of HDMI 2.1 receivers and 4K 120Hz content. The Epson can't do 4K 120Hz so it's irrelevant. Either will work with the Epson. My x3700h has the bug and works fine with this projector.


@Enchy and @PixelPusher15 very much appreciate your quick input. Definitely ordering this receiver. Ive only watched less than a hour of footage on this pj, and I'm loving it more and more over LG. 
Thanks again!


----------



## vagos1103gr11

Enchy said:


> Yep. Using an Integral 2. Been playing Forza Horizon 5 in Dolby Vision and it is really something else.
> 
> Only annoying thing is having to manually force the Epson into HDR mode when watching something with Dolby Vision. Not the end of the world as I have a Harmony macro setup, but it does lead to times like last night where I watch 3 minutes of a movie wondering why the colors look off only to realize I still had it forcing HDR.


Hi, I have also me the vertex 2 connected between an Apple TV and onkyo receiver output on epson 5050. Can you tell me what are your settings on hdfury? I have the settings of Dave Harper on auto mix and I don’t know if are correct thanks.


----------



## Enchy

vagos1103gr11 said:


> Hi, I have also me the vertex 2 connected between an Apple TV and onkyo receiver output on epson 5050. Can you tell me what are your settings on hdfury? I have the settings of Dave Harper on auto mix and I don’t know if are correct thanks.


I followed the instructions in this post to load the EDID: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...

And I have both EDID options 2 and 4 from this post loaded on my Integral2: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on... I believe I've settled on the BT2020 EDID, but I'd have to go confirm it. They both looked pretty much identical to my eye.

I added the Integral to my harmony remote, and have the options to do EDID passthrough, EDID 2 from that post, EDID 4 from that post, and turning on and off the OSD from my remote.

Mine is also placed between my AVR and the projector, so all video sources pass through it.


----------



## Enchy

EDIT: accidentally replied to myself instead of editing


----------



## JPBoggis

Try the following settings:









Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


Oddly, sometimes I will notice that the image doesn't appear right, and will check to find that DV has been turned off in my ATV somehow (maybe do to a reset or update?). Once I turn DV back on, the picture goes back to what I now expect it to be. If the ATV4K notices any change in the devices...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## tayljd1

Hello! I have an Epson 5050, ~1900 lamp hours, no previous issues. Today I was messing with some settings, went to grayscale and it went dark. Lamp has not turned on since, when I turn it on the status light blinks blue and the lamp light shines orange. According to the Epson help site this means the bulb is a problem. I took the bulb out and reseated it and this did not fix it.

You think I just need a new bulb? Or something more? Prior to today I didn't notice any issues with the bulb. Thank you!


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## Orwellflash

tayljd1 said:


> Hello! I have an Epson 5050, ~1900 lamp hours, no previous issues. Today I was messing with some settings, went to grayscale and it went dark. Lamp has not turned on since, when I turn it on the status light blinks blue and the lamp light shines orange. According to the Epson help site this means the bulb is a problem. I took the bulb out and reseated it and this did not fix it.
> 
> You think I just need a new bulb? Or something more? Prior to today I didn't notice any issues with the bulb. Thank you!


I suppose that you unplugged your projector when you reseated the lamp, but if you didn't, you should try turning it off, unplugging it and then starting it from scratch. A power problem can cause same light configuration. I had an internal error indicated one time (blue light and orange lights flashing)--I turned it off and unplugged and it fixed the freeze upon restart. I did that before calling Epson. User's Guide seems to indicate that checking lamp hours will indicate whether the lamp has burned out. I have never burned out a lamp before replacing it, so I can't confirm that.


----------



## Orwellflash

Has anyone painted the 5050 black? Doesn't seem like it "should" void the warranty, though it might. I am annoyed by the beacon of light reflection in the back of my HT. I have used washable elmer's glue to attach black velvet around the lens, being careful to leave the air ducts unobstructed, but I am tempted to paint the louvers.


----------



## tayljd1

Orwellflash said:


> I suppose that you unplugged your projector when you reseated the lamp, but if you didn't, you should try turning it off, unplugging it and then starting it from scratch. A power problem can cause same light configuration. I had an internal error indicated one time (blue light and orange lights flashing)--I turned it off and unplugged and it fixed the freeze upon restart. I did that before calling Epson. User's Guide seems to indicate that checking lamp hours will indicate whether the lamp has burned out. I have never burned out a lamp before replacing it, so I can't confirm that.


Yes, I unplugged the projector on a couple occasions. The last time I unplugged it, took out and put back in the lamp, then restarted. Same result.


----------



## Orwellflash

tayljd1 said:


> Yes, I unplugged the projector on a couple occasions. The last time I unplugged it, took out and put back in the lamp, then restarted. Same result.


At 1900 hours, it is not unlikely that your lamp needs to be replaced, especially if you used normal or high mode. Consolation prize is that you will get a much brighter picture with a new bulb.


----------



## Kieran

Enchy said:


> Yep. Using an Integral 2. Been playing Forza Horizon 5 in Dolby Vision and it is really something else.
> 
> Only annoying thing is having to manually force the Epson into HDR mode when watching something with Dolby Vision.


Uhhhh... that doesn't sound right?!? 
Everything I've read about this "hack" with the HDFury is that when the source is either LLDV or HDR10, the HDFury presents what looks to the projector like a HDR10 signal, so the projector should automatically switch into HDR mode. How is this not the case for you?
@JPBoggis what is your experience here?


----------



## Enchy

Kieran said:


> Uhhhh... that doesn't sound right?!?
> Everything I've read about this "hack" with the HDFury is that when the source is either LLDV or HDR10, the HDFury presents what looks to the projector like a HDR10 signal, so the projector should automatically switch into HDR mode. How is this not the case for you?
> @JPBoggis what is your experience here?


The Vertex devices will tell the Epson to automatically switch, the Integral that I have doesn't. Here's the posts in the thread where I worked that out with HDFury: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


----------



## Kieran

Enchy said:


> The Vertex devices will tell the Epson to automatically switch, the Integral that I have doesn't. Here's the posts in the thread where I worked that out with HDFury: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


Ah, OK thanks for the clarification. If I were to do this, I'd buy a Vertex2 or maybe the Maestro.


----------



## Enchy

Kieran said:


> Ah, OK thanks for the clarification. If I were to do this, I'd buy a Vertex2 or maybe the Maestro.


I would highly recommend that. Swapping my Integral for a Vertex is on my to-do list.


----------



## jaredmwright

I just ordered the Arcana to enable Dolby Vision on my 6050ub, looking forward to getting it and trying it out based on the positive results I have heard. I primarily use my Nvidia Shield Pro for streaming which I think will work well with it.


----------



## Tyrober

Trying to decide between this or going for the consensus better choice in the NX5. Room will not be pitch black but pretty dim. Main listening position will be 16 feet away. Is the NX5 worth the extra money or will I not notice the difference in pixel shifting vs true 4K with some light in the room as well as being 16 feet away from the screen. Thanks


----------



## Kieran

Tyrober said:


> Trying to decide between this or going for the consensus better choice in the NX5. Room will not be pitch black but pretty dim. Main listening position will be 16 feet away. Is the NX5 worth the extra money or will I not notice the difference in pixel shifting vs true 4K with some light in the room as well as being 16 feet away from the screen. Thanks


You're in the owners' thread for the 5050ub/6050ub... I think most of us decided already that the NX5 was NOT worth the extra $2k-ish. Maybe some of us also just didn't have that budget. 

That said, the NX5 offers ore than the native 4k - the DTM is a huge selling point, too.

I would look for a retailer where you can demo both. My local Magnolia has (had?) both when I was shopping. I chose the 5050ub, but also it would have been a painful stretch to get to the NX5 in my budget, and that money was better spent on other things.


----------



## hms17B

Orwellflash said:


> Has anyone painted the 5050 black? Doesn't seem like it "should" void the warranty, though it might. I am annoyed by the beacon of light reflection in the back of my HT. I have used washable elmer's glue to attach black velvet around the lens, being careful to leave the air ducts unobstructed, but I am tempted to paint the louvers.
> View attachment 3197465


I wouldn't make any modifications at all until the warranty had expired.


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## Orwellflash

Sound advice.  ... though check this out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NSLABS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Alaric

Tyrober said:


> Trying to decide between this or going for the consensus better choice in the NX5. Room will not be pitch black but pretty dim. Main listening position will be 16 feet away. Is the NX5 worth the extra money or will I not notice the difference in pixel shifting vs true 4K with some light in the room as well as being 16 feet away from the screen. Thanks


An NX5 has better contrast, but your room will be a limiting factor so you won't see that much benefit there. The Extra lumens of the Epson will help if you are fighting light. You may want to look at an Ambient Light Rejecting screen with the saved cash.

Native Vs Pixel shifting isn't a BIG jump, unless you run a massive screen (The lumens of the Epson will be more noticeable here too) or you sit very close.

DTM will be better on the NX5 if you want to watch a lot of HDR material.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Tyrober said:


> Trying to decide between this or going for the consensus better choice in the NX5. Room will not be pitch black but pretty dim. Main listening position will be 16 feet away. Is the NX5 worth the extra money or will I not notice the difference in pixel shifting vs true 4K with some light in the room as well as being 16 feet away from the screen. Thanks


A bunch of us from Michigan just got together and did a 5-way projector shootout this past weekend. My 5050 and an NX7 were there as well as some older models. The summary posts start here: Michigan projector shoot out

My take on the NX5 vs 5050 is that the $2k upcharge (if you can find a dealer that's still able to give you that price) gets you DTM. That's the cheapest high quality DTM that works with all sources. If you are doing a lot of streaming then it very may well be worth it. The HDR slider on the 5050 literally cannot compete with JVC's DTM from what I saw. Sure I could make one scene look similar but then I'd blow out highlights on another. Don't get me wrong, the HDR slider on the 5050 is good and it is one of the better static tone mapping solutions available...its just not DTM. There's no way I could swing the price of a NX5 but even without the boost in contrast and resolution, the built-in DTM makes it "worth it" IMO. That being said, the price has to fit your budget and not the other way around.

If you are doing mostly discs then a Panasonic player with its HDR to SDR conversion does almost as good a job as the DTM in the JVC. If you are able to do only rips with a PC and install madVR then that will be even better than the JVC.

I'm currently trying really hard to get the Vertex 2 LLDV hack to work for my 5050. I saw some progress last night but I still can't see the benefits with my ATV4K which is my streamer of choice. It may be defective. I'll report back if I get it to work well. If it does work then my recommendation above may alter


----------



## Orwellflash

PixelPusher15 said:


> A bunch of us from Michigan just got together and did a 5-way projector shootout this past weekend. My 5050 and an NX7 were there as well as some older models. The summary posts start here: Michigan projector shoot out
> 
> My take on the NX5 vs 5050 is that the $2k upcharge (if you can find a dealer that's still able to give you that price) gets you DTM. That's the cheapest high quality DTM that works with all sources. If you are doing a lot of streaming then it very may well be worth it. The HDR slider on the 5050 literally cannot compete with JVC's DTM from what I saw. Sure I could make one scene look similar but then I'd blow out highlights on another. Don't get me wrong, the HDR slider on the 5050 is good and it is one of the better static tone mapping solutions available...its just not DTM. There's no way I could swing the price of a NX5 but even without the boost in contrast and resolution, the built-in DTM makes it "worth it" IMO. That being said, the price has to fit your budget and not the other way around.
> 
> If you are doing mostly discs then a Panasonic player with its HDR to SDR conversion does almost as good a job as the DTM in the JVC. If you are able to do only rips with a PC and install madVR then that will be even better than the JVC.
> 
> I'm currently trying really hard to get the Vertex 2 LLDV hack to work for my 5050. I saw some progress last night but I still can't see the benefits with my ATV4K which is my streamer of choice. It may be defective. I'll report back if I get it to work well. If it does work then my recommendation above may alter


I have been investigating Vertex 2. I am eager to hear about your experience with that.


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## PixelPusher15

Orwellflash said:


> I have been investigating Vertex 2. I am eager to hear about your experience with that.


I tried 8 months ago and saw no difference so I sent it back. I'm trying again and saw no difference on the ATV4K which is the same device I used 8 months ago. But last night I tried some Netflix content on my Chromecast w/Google TV and it was clear DV was doing some stuff. The same content/scene on ATV did nothing. I'm going to get a new ATV at lunch today and see if that's the cause. I'm crossing my fingers it is. I did have a weird hiccup with my ATV4K a few months ago where it wouldn't work above 576p so maybe something went haywire inside it.


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## Alaric

I am using an original Vertex with the TW9400 - It's more of a faff for sure (changing stuff means hooking up a laptop).
I used Edid Gold and a couple of other editors but i've got a good EDID now which appears to work well.

I recently picked up an Apple TV 4K and have had decent success with both Netflix and Disney+ in 4K, 24p DV working as LLDV and showing as BT2020 HDR on the Epson.

I've also a Sony X800m2 on the second vertex port which also works well for LLDV with UHD discs.

I also find it works well with a Dynamic HDR calibration that i recently did using a custom Gamma curve, which produces reasonable colours, a strong black level, great contrast and impressive light output for the specular highlights and allows me to run the HDR slider in the 4-5 range rather than down at 2 with my HDR accurate calibration using the filter.








The Dreaming Cinema


I thought i'd finally start to document some of what I've done in home cinema as it's a bit of a crazy install, with lots of, mainly second hand, esoteric kit and done on a reasonable budget and with some odd constraints. It is however quite a show and very impressive! Kit Front Speakers - 2 x




sites.google.com


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## RONM

Is there any way to block an HDR signal from streaming to this projector when using a nvidia sheild.As much as I have monkeyed with the settings on both the streaming device and my Epson
much of the 4k hdr content still looks washed out with poor black levels.Will this even help or is it just the way it is?


----------



## Enchy

RONM said:


> Is there any way to block an HDR signal from streaming to this projector when using a nvidia sheild.As much as I have monkeyed with the settings on both the streaming device and my Epson
> much of the 4k hdr content still looks washed out with poor black levels.Will this even help or is it just the way it is?


Not on the Epson side. You should be able to disable HDR on the Nvidia device, but if not, could always use an HDMI 1.4 cable


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## jaredmwright

RONM said:


> Is there any way to block an HDR signal from streaming to this projector when using a nvidia sheild.As much as I have monkeyed with the settings on both the streaming device and my Epson
> much of the 4k hdr content still looks washed out with poor black levels.Will this even help or is it just the way it is?


You should be able to set a manual display color space and resolution under the advanced display settings which should enforce SDR and avoid HDR, have you tried that? Outside of that there are 3rd party products that could also accomplish this in the HDMI chain before or after the receiver. It would be a nice option to have built into the projector. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## RONM

jaredmwright said:


> You should be able to set a manual display color space and resolution under the advanced display settings which should enforce SDR and avoid HDR, have you tried that? Outside of that there are 3rd party products that could also accomplish this in the HDMI chain before or after the receiver. It would be a nice option to have built into the projector.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the suggestions will try this tonight.Little surprised haven't seen much discussion on the shortcomings of hdr but maybe I'm being too fussy.The non hdr imax enhanced stuff on Disney plus looks fantastic.


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## jaredmwright

RONM said:


> Thanks for the suggestions will try this tonight.Little surprised haven't seen much discussion on the shortcomings of hdr but maybe I'm being too fussy.The non hdr imax enhanced stuff on Disney plus looks fantastic.


I tend to agree. SDR properly calibrated can look pretty good when you consider the annoyances of HDR adjustment and variance across sources without any headache and constant tinkering. DTM solves this for the most part, but we don't have this capability. I expect that JVC owners feel differently, and they have also paid for that capability. HDR when setup properly is definitely preferable, but the state of the tech is still in early phases causing more headache for many. I look forward to a DTM solution in my next projector or via an affordable solution, not a Lumagen or MadVR Envy type price point. 

For now I am using SDR/HDR and have settled on settings that minimize adjusting often and in the future I am adding an HDFury Arcana to enable Dolby Vision via HDR, which will be the best solution for the near term at a reasonable price point, but will only be for supported content of course. I primarily use an Nvidia Shield Pro with very limited Blu-ray usage, it has dropped significantly over the last couple years as streaming continues to improve. (I realize the quality of 4K Blu-ray can't be beat currently, especially for audio) but convenience also has value for part of the viewing experience.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Enchy

RONM said:


> Thanks for the suggestions will try this tonight.Little surprised haven't seen much discussion on the shortcomings of hdr but maybe I'm being too fussy.The non hdr imax enhanced stuff on Disney plus looks fantastic.


I think HDR can look really really good on this projector. Last night I started an episode of Midnight Mass (Dolby Vision) on my living room LED-LCD. Peak brightness 1000nits, 95% DCI P3, pretty great looking picture. It looked really, really good. Halfway through the episode I went downstairs and finished it in my theater on the Epson watching in Dolby Vision via the HDFury and I couldn't believe how great it looked after having just watching it on my TV that has better PQ for HDR. The black level details on the 5050 were stunning, the highlights in dark scenes were pronounced and intense. The dark colors of the show's palette were impressive. I was struck by how good a very dark (visually) show in HDR looked on the projector.

That being said, I do agree that SDR looks _better _on the Epson, but I don't really find HDR lacking. I'll always prefer a UHDBD over an HD BD.


----------



## Alaric

RONM said:


> Is there any way to block an HDR signal from streaming to this projector when using a nvidia sheild.As much as I have monkeyed with the settings on both the streaming device and my Epson
> much of the 4k hdr content still looks washed out with poor black levels.Will this even help or is it just the way it is?


The Epson is a display device. It'll show what you feed it!

Use the Info tab in the menu to see what the projector is actually seeing - Often amps and players don't feed what you expect them to, so always a first stop in trouble shooting.

For the Epson, you can set to SDR in the Display menu, however this will just force the projector to use the Standard Dynamic Range, You can also force the projector into HDR here, however Auto matches what it sees and is usually correct. 
I've occasionally forced something here (Calibration, using a vertex) and gotten a crossed level, which gives a washed out or dark image.

The Shield you can certainly set to SDR, Colour spaces(Rec709, BT2020) and resolutions and will do some actual conversion between them


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## RONM

Enchy said:


> I think HDR can look really really good on this projector. Last night I started an episode of Midnight Mass (Dolby Vision) on my living room LED-LCD. Peak brightness 1000nits, 95% DCI P3, pretty great looking picture. It looked really, really good. Halfway through the episode I went downstairs and finished it in my theater on the Epson watching in Dolby Vision via the HDFury and I couldn't believe how great it looked after having just watching it on my TV that has better PQ for HDR. The black level details on the 5050 were stunning, the highlights in dark scenes were pronounced and intense. The dark colors of the show's palette were impressive. I was struck by how good a very dark (visually) show in HDR looked on the projector.
> 
> That being said, I do agree that SDR looks _better _on the Epson, but I don't really find HDR lacking. I'll always prefer a UHDBD over an HD BD.


Thanks again everyone!I have seen the hdfury mentioned mainly in the over 3000 forum but assumed it was a 10k video processor type device.Come to think about it my panasonic player does a great job with hdr via it's dtm.What's the actual model(hd fury)if you don't mind me asking and is dtm it's main function?


----------



## Alaric

jaredmwright said:


> DTM solves this for the most part, but we don't have this capability. I expect that JVC owners feel differently, and they have also paid for that capability. HDR when setup properly is definitely preferable, but the state of the tech is still in early phases causing more headache for many. I look forward to a DTM solution in my next projector or via an affordable solution, not a Lumagen or MadVR Envy type price point.


A decent reasonably priced DTM solution is sorely lacking in the AV space at the moment.

An add on box at a fair price would sweep up and even a decent media player or higher end UHD player with this feature would sell like hot cakes! I keep looking and hoping as a 4K lumagen is silly money, the Evny worse and MadVR has lots of complications and is also HTPC based!

The LLDV Vertex hack is about as good as it gets for any DV discs or DV enabled content, even though a bit of a faff to set-up and get reasonable. The next best is still the Panasonic Ub420/820 it was the best combo before the LLDV hack and is still good for standard HDR disc content.


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## PixelPusher15

@Alaric and @Enchy, I think both of you are using the LLDV hack with an HDFury device. Can you share the EDID you are using for both the HDR and DV block? I believe our Epson ignores the custom HDR EDID but I want to cover all my bases. Bonus points if you have a Vertex 2 and can share your config file. 

I'm having a hard time seeing any positive benefits on my ATV but I believe I see improvements on my Chromecast w/Google TV. I'd really rather use the ATV since it is a better streamer IMO.


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## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> @Alaric and @Enchy, I think both of you are using the LLDV hack with an HDFury device. Can you share the EDID you are using for both the HDR and DV block? I believe our Epson ignores the custom HDR EDID but I want to cover all my bases. Bonus points if you have a Vertex 2 and can share your config file.
> 
> I'm having a hard time seeing any positive benefits on my ATV but I believe I see improvements on my Chromecast w/Google TV. I'd really rather use the ATV since it is a better streamer IMO.


I have an Integral 2, but I plan on upgrading to the Vertex 2 eventually.

I've used both 2 and 4 from this post: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...

I have them both loaded, and can switch between them and EDID passthrough via IR on my Harmony remote. I've switched between the BT2020 and the DCI-P3 while watching a Dolby Vision disk on my Sony UBP-x700 and couldn't tell any meaningful difference. I tend to just leave it on the BT2020 EDID. My primary devices are a Roku Ultra for streaming and the Sony player for disks. My Xbox Series X also uses LLDV but I only use that for games.

I've messed a bit with creating a custom EDID in the config app, but it was a bit over my head and the off the shelf options looked good to me.


----------



## jaredmwright

RONM said:


> Thanks again everyone!I have seen the hdfury mentioned mainly in the over 3000 forum but assumed it was a 10k video processor type device.Come to think about it my panasonic player does a great job with hdr via it's dtm.What's the actual model(hd fury)if you don't mind me asking and is dtm it's main function?


HDFury Arcana is what you want for a simple straight forward use case that auto switches without intervention to support the right modes. They have other devices that can support it as well along with many more capabilities but they also cost more, so you need to decide your preferred functionality and budget.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## pottscb

Enchy said:


> I think HDR can look really really good on this projector. Last night I started an episode of Midnight Mass (Dolby Vision) on my living room LED-LCD. Peak brightness 1000nits, 95% DCI P3, pretty great looking picture. It looked really, really good. Halfway through the episode I went downstairs and finished it in my theater on the Epson watching in Dolby Vision via the HDFury and I couldn't believe how great it looked after having just watching it on my TV that has better PQ for HDR. The black level details on the 5050 were stunning, the highlights in dark scenes were pronounced and intense. The dark colors of the show's palette were impressive. I was struck by how good a very dark (visually) show in HDR looked on the projector.
> 
> That being said, I do agree that SDR looks _better _on the Epson, but I don't really find HDR lacking. I'll always prefer a UHDBD over an HD BD.


Just curious, what was your streaming device on the Epson? I freely admit my ignorance here, did the Dolby Vision HDR feed look so good because the feed was constantly changing luminance levels? (DTM?) I’m thinking maybe it just looked good because Midnight Mass is an overall very dark show and the pj didn’t have to change its luminance levels too much from darkest to lightest content. If DV auto-tone maps (I don’t think so) it would always look better than static HDR. I think DTM is usually done in the display (or external video processor) and is not part of the HDR signal. Are there no DTM solutions for streaming devices that cost less than $5K (just found out the Panasonic player only DTMs the discs, not streaming). I hope the makers of Darbee are onto this and can facilitate an upgrade to their 4K device. I’d preorder one today for $1K as long as it allows DV for pj.


----------



## PixelPusher15

pottscb said:


> Just curious, what was your streaming device on the Epson? I freely admit my ignorance here, did the Dolby Vision HDR feed look so good because the feed was constantly changing luminance levels? (DTM?) I’m thinking maybe it just looked good because Midnight Mass is an overall very dark show and the pj didn’t have to change its luminance levels too much from darkest to lightest content. If DV auto-tone maps (I don’t think so) it would always look better than static HDR. I think DTM is usually done in the display (or external video processor) and is not part of the HDR signal. Are there no DTM solutions for streaming devices that cost less than $5K (just found out the Panasonic player only DTMs the discs, not streaming). I hope the makers of Darbee are onto this and can facilitate an upgrade to their 4K device. I’d preorder one today for $1K as long as it allows DV for pj.


There's a type of DV that is DTM and is player led. A lot of devices can do it (ATV4K, Chromecast w/Google TV, Fire Stick, Roku, BD Players, etc). HDFury spoofs the the player into thinking it is connected to a device that can handle LLDV (the player-led DV) and then it converts that to traditional HDR10 that the display can handle. I've just recently tried again and have had varying degrees of success with it. Here is my recent post on it in the LLDV thread: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on... 

You said a couple things about changing luminance levels which is a slightly odd way to describe it. All content changes luminance levels. Going from dark room to the bright outdoors in a scene is a huge change in luminance level and happens on HDR and SDR. What Dolby Vision and DTM does is map the content to a luminance scale that the display can actually handle and look good with. For instance if you feed a 4,000 nit HDR signal to a display that is doing a static tone map of just fitting the HDR curve to it's internal SDR curve without any sort of calculations, brightness pretty much is cut to 1/4th across the board. Most displays don't do this and instead will force clip at some level but this still sucks. That's why DTM is important. It evaluates each frame or scene and will map the actual content to the display. 

I think lol. This is my understanding and while I probably have some things wrong I do believe I have a general understanding of what's going on. 🤷‍♂️


----------



## Enchy

I was typing up a reply but Andy worded it better than I could have. That matches my understanding of what we're doing with the HDFury spoofing.


pottscb said:


> Just curious, what was your streaming device on the Epson?


I use a Roku Ultra because (to me) it's the only one with a UI that doesn't drive me crazy.


----------



## eastdigital

Pardon my ignorance too. I get that 5050 doesn't have DTM and for physical media Panny 4K blu-ray player maybe the best option. So is HDfury a low cost option to obtain DTM? I see they have model ranging from high $200 to high $400. Is it mainly used for streaming devices? I'm very new to projector and 5050 but seems like so many options to get an even better picture


----------



## Enchy

eastdigital said:


> Pardon my ignorance too. I get that 5050 doesn't have DTM and for physical media Panny 4K blu-ray player maybe the best option. So is HDfury a low cost option to obtain DTM? I see they have model ranging from high $200 to high $400. Is it mainly used for streaming devices? I'm very new to projector and 5050 but seems like so many options to get an even better picture


It's not only for streaming devices. I have mine between my AVR and my projector so any source that can do LLDV (Roku, Xbox, Sony UHD player) sends DV to the Epson.


----------



## eastdigital

Enchy said:


> It's not only for streaming devices. I have mine between my AVR and my projector so any source that can do LLDV (Roku, Xbox, Sony UHD player) sends DV to the Epson.


So then it's allowing LLDV (assuming Dolby Vision) to be played on 5050. Does it improve HDR10 image, if the playback is only in HDR10. Just trying to understand if it's worth the investment.


----------



## Enchy

eastdigital said:


> So then it's allowing LLDV (assuming Dolby Vision) to be played on 5050. Does it improve HDR10 image, if the playback is only in HDR10. Just trying to understand if it's worth the investment.


It doesn't do anything to enhance HDR10 native content.


----------



## eastdigital

Enchy said:


> It doesn't do anything to enhance HDR10 native content.


Thanks!


----------



## pottscb

PixelPusher15 said:


> There's a type of DV that is DTM and is player led. A lot of devices can do it (ATV4K, Chromecast w/Google TV, Fire Stick, Roku, BD Players, etc). HDFury spoofs the the player into thinking it is connected to a device that can handle LLDV (the player-led DV) and then it converts that to traditional HDR10 that the display can handle. I've just recently tried again and have had varying degrees of success with it. Here is my recent post on it in the LLDV thread: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...
> 
> You said a couple things about changing luminance levels which is a slightly odd way to describe it. All content changes luminance levels. Going from dark room to the bright outdoors in a scene is a huge change in luminance level and happens on HDR and SDR. What Dolby Vision and DTM does is map the content to a luminance scale that the display can actually handle and look good with. For instance if you feed a 4,000 nit HDR signal to a display that is doing a static tone map of just fitting the HDR curve to it's internal SDR curve without any sort of calculations, brightness pretty much is cut to 1/4th across the board. Most displays don't do this and instead will force clip at some level but this still sucks. That's why DTM is important. It evaluates each frame or scene and will map the actual content to the display.
> 
> I think lol. This is my understanding and while I probably have some things wrong I do believe I have a general understanding of what's going on. 🤷‍♂️


Thanks for the explanation. Is LLDV the only one that can be player led, or can HDR+ do this as well? Assuming an HDFury is necessary in the chain, which I think would then make the LLDV be able to be played on older devices as well? (I have an older “non-HDR” 1080p JVC)


----------



## RONM

Dug around on this forum and found what most have already.DTM happens with a madvr or lumagen video processor at a hefty price tag.Only other option now is a projector that does dtm ala jvc.
Too bad the new epson did not include this


----------



## biglen

RONM said:


> Dug around on this forum and found what most have already.DTM happens with a madvr or lumagen video processor at a hefty price tag.Only other option now is a projector that does dtm ala jvc.
> Too bad the new epson did not include this


Panasonic Blu-ray players are VERY good for DTM. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## RONM

biglen said:


> Panasonic Blu-ray players are VERY good for DTM.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Agreed,but my gripe is with streaming which admittedly can be a mixed bag image quality wise with hdr


----------



## blake18

Anyone have full calibration settings for the 6050ub in Natural mode?


----------



## ToddB12

Orwellflash said:


> Has anyone painted the 5050 black? Doesn't seem like it "should" void the warranty, though it might. I am annoyed by the beacon of light reflection in the back of my HT. I have used washable elmer's glue to attach black velvet around the lens, being careful to leave the air ducts unobstructed, but I am tempted to paint the louvers.
> View attachment 3197465





Orwellflash said:


> Has anyone painted the 5050 black? Doesn't seem like it "should" void the warranty, though it might. I am annoyed by the beacon of light reflection in the back of my HT. I have used washable elmer's glue to attach black velvet around the lens, being careful to leave the air ducts unobstructed, but I am tempted to paint the louvers.
> View attachment 3197465


I painted my PlayStation five I taped off all the spots where the paint could get in and painted it with black spray paint it came out great. I did not like the white color in my Home Theater. That’s exactly why I got the 6050 UB.


----------



## Enchy

ToddB12 said:


> I painted my PlayStation five I taped off all the spots where the paint could get in and painted it with black spray paint it came out great. I did not like the white color in my Home Theater. That’s exactly why I got the 6050 UB.


You didn't just remove the side panels on your PS5? I know a few people who've painted theirs black and that's how they've done it.


----------



## martinstraka8282

A lot of people have painted the white removable PS5 side panels with that Vinyl spray coating with excellent results, but I can't remember what it's called.

I considered it but forked over some cash for black replacement panels instead to save myself the trouble.


----------



## ToddB12

Enchy said:


> You didn't just remove the side panels on your PS5? I know a few people who've painted theirs black and that's how they've done it.


I did not remove anything I just used masking tape and a razor knife to cut it exactly where it needed to go.


----------



## Orwellflash

ToddB12 said:


> I painted my PlayStation five I taped off all the spots where the paint could get in and painted it with black spray paint it came out great. I did not like the white color in my Home Theater. That’s exactly why I got the 6050 UB.


Thanks for the info. I think the way you did it gives the best results, but I didn't want to take the case off while it is under warranty, and masking the vent louvers would have been more work than using a washable marker, and spray painting indoors is a problem. I have put black felt/velvet over all the walls/ceiling in my HT, and that made the 5050 really stand out in the otherwise dark theater. I improved it substantially by attaching fabric with washable school Elmer's glue to the front, except for vents and remote signal receiver, and painting the grills over the vents with a Staedtler Lumocolor Non-Permanent Marker Broad Black 312-9. I tested it before I did it, and it comes off easily with a damp cotton pad.


----------



## Yoss

Flickering 5050ub question. 

So I've discovered the information mentioning to not run in eco mode all the time. I have about 200 hours on the lamp right now, and have done a mix of settings but probably used eco mode about 75% of the time. I've been running it on high lately and that's helped.

What's strange is that the flickering comes back rather badly when I'm switched over to my AVR (Marantz SR-6014) set up screens. I was rerunning my Audyssey calibration last night, and it was the worst flickering I'd seen yet. When I switched back over to other sources, the flickering went away. Maybe the dark, static set up screens are worse about triggering the flickering. I guess I'll keep running on high lamp mode and hope the electrodes get cleaned out better.

Anyone else experienced similar?


----------



## JPBoggis

pottscb said:


> Thanks for the explanation. Is LLDV the only one that can be player led, or can HDR+ do this as well? Assuming an HDFury is necessary in the chain, which I think would then make the LLDV be able to be played on older devices as well? (I have an older “non-HDR” 1080p JVC)


I don't think HDR10+ has a player led option - the only way to get HDR10+ is with a TV or projector that has HDR10+ capability.

Similar to LLDV, the HDFury can trick the player into thinking the display is HDR10+ capable but this will just played back as HDR10 on a display that's not actually capable of HDR10+, or possibly result in no picture.

The HDFury LLDV 'hack' requires a HDR10 capable TV or projector to work.


----------



## routlaw

Which HD Fury model? There seem to be quite a few on their website and they all more or less do about the same… I think. So which model is the preferred for the Epson 5050? Thanks


----------



## JPBoggis

I use the Vertex2

But if you want something more simpler, the Arcana should work well too.


----------



## Enchy

I plan on selling my Integral 2 and getting an Arcana


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## jaredmwright

I just received my Arcana yesterday and spent time to get it configured and connected between my Denon receiver and my 6050ub. My initial reaction is that this device brings a ton of value. Once configured properly, it automatically switches modes between Dolby Vision, HDR and SDR based on the source content. I use an Nvidia Shield Pro for my streaming and I didn't realize how many movies and applications supported Dolby Vision. 

It definitely gives a better overall picture than standard HDR and provides a more balanced evenness that I felt was missing. I don't notice the clipping that I see on the same movie in HDR. I also took the time to recalibrate my settings on Digital Cinema and Cinema using Spears and Munsil to tune it up and ensure the best outcome based on bulb aging (just under 1K hours on my bulb). I honestly can't believe how good it works and how good it looks. I watched clips across Netflix, Disney+, and Movies Anywhere to test out the Dolby Vision content and all of it worked without a hitch. There is a small pause and black screen when it switches modes (similar to changing an HDMI input), but the payoff is worth it in my opinion. 

IMHO this is a bargain to bring a capability like this to a projector installation that only supports HDR. I am glad that I invested in it, I went back and forth for a while because I wasn't sure if it was worth it. Now I am going to re-watch some content to see how much better it comes across. 

If there are any questions I can answer that haven't already been or you just want a fresh perspective I can try to help out. I would love to invest in a Lumagen, but it is way out of my budget and I would probably invest in a JVC before for deeper blacks and improved contrast unless Epson comes out with a DTM solution on a newer projector that makes sense to consider.


----------



## blubbers

jaredmwright said:


> I just received my Arcana yesterday and spent time to get it configured and connected between my Denon receiver and my 6050ub. My initial reaction is that this device brings a ton of value. Once configured properly, it automatically switches modes between Dolby Vision, HDR and SDR based on the source content. I use an Nvidia Shield Pro for my streaming and I didn't realize how many movies and applications supported Dolby Vision.
> 
> It definitely gives a better overall picture than standard HDR and provides a more balanced evenness that I felt was missing. I don't notice the clipping that I see on the same movie in HDR. I also took the time to recalibrate my settings on Digital Cinema and Cinema using Spears and Munsil to tune it up and ensure the best outcome based on bulb aging (just under 1K hours on my bulb). I honestly can't believe how good it works and how good it looks. I watched clips across Netflix, Disney+, and Movies Anywhere to test out the Dolby Vision content and all of it worked without a hitch. There is a small pause and black screen when it switches modes (similar to changing an HDMI input), but the payoff is worth it in my opinion.
> 
> IMHO this is a bargain to bring a capability like this to a projector installation that only supports HDR. I am glad that I invested in it, I went back and forth for a while because I wasn't sure if it was worth it. Now I am going to re-watch some content to see how much better it comes across.
> 
> If there are any questions I can answer that haven't already been or you just want a fresh perspective I can try to help out. I would love to invest in a Lumagen, but it is way out of my budget and I would probably invest in a JVC before for deeper blacks and improved contrast unless Epson comes out with a DTM solution on a newer projector that makes sense to consider.


Hi! I’m completely new to this device. Does it convert Dolby Vision to HDR10? Or is it allowing the 5050/6050 to display DV? Also, does it add any input lag?

Thanks so much!!


----------



## Enchy

blubbers said:


> Also, does it add any input lag?


I don't have a Bodnar to test, but subjectively I haven't noticed any increased latency from my HDFury and I play lots of games that require precise timing.


----------



## jaredmwright

blubbers said:


> Hi! I’m completely new to this device. Does it convert Dolby Vision to HDR10? Or is it allowing the 5050/6050 to display DV? Also, does it add any input lag?
> 
> Thanks so much!!


It does not convert anything, it passes it through as is, so there is not detectable lag introduced. It allows the source video device to detect and play Dolby Vision and tells the display HDR is being sent. They use similar gamma mappings and by adjusting the Arcana and HDR adjustment on the projector you can find a good setting for your environment.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Marc D Carra

jaredmwright said:


> It does not convert anything, it passes it through as is, so there is not detectable lag introduced. It allows the source video device to detect and play Dolby Vision and tells the display HDR is being sent. They use similar gamma mappings and by adjusting the Arcana and HDR adjustment on the projector you can find a good setting for your environment.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Is there any benefit to HDR material or just that it lets you view Dolby Vision without any conversion? Right now i just force my Oppo 203 player to output HDR instead of Dolby Vision. I guess this is only useful for other sources like Netflix Dolby Vision material, etc?


----------



## markymiles

jaredmwright said:


> I just received my Arcana yesterday and spent time to get it configured and connected between my Denon receiver and my 6050ub. My initial reaction is that this device brings a ton of value. Once configured properly, it automatically switches modes between Dolby Vision, HDR and SDR based on the source content. I use an Nvidia Shield Pro for my streaming and I didn't realize how many movies and applications supported Dolby Vision.


Would you mind sharing how you have it configured. I am aware of other threads dedicated to this but wondered if the Arcana is more simple than say the Vertex 2 to set up.


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## jbn008

Enchy said:


> I don't have a Bodnar to test, but subjectively I haven't noticed any increased latency from my HDFury and I play lots of games that require precise timing.


Vertex2 as per HDFury.com


----------



## jaredmwright

Marc D Carra said:


> Is there any benefit to HDR material or just that it lets you view Dolby Vision without any conversion? Right now i just force my Oppo 203 player to output HDR instead of Dolby Vision. I guess this is only useful for other sources like Netflix Dolby Vision material, etc?


It would also allow your Oppo to output in Dolby Vision since any source passing through the receiver would get the options as configured on the Arcana if your reciever supports Dolby Vision passthrough. I will share my settings later.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

Marc D Carra said:


> Is there any benefit to HDR material or just that it lets you view Dolby Vision without any conversion? Right now i just force my Oppo 203 player to output HDR instead of Dolby Vision. I guess this is only useful for other sources like Netflix Dolby Vision material, etc?


Good question on if it effects regular HDR or not compared to without the Arcana inline. I haven't spent time to look into that. It can force certain NIT points which may give more control over the HDR experience. If anything maybe it is more consistent or better matched to the projector? I will play around with it when I have some time and see what I notice. I think I am using 1000 nits right now.


----------



## JPBoggis

I've experimented a lot and 1000 nits seems to be optimal - I think the projector's fixed HDR tone mapping curve is optimised for 1000 nits.

Some players such as Apple TV 4K, Sony X800m2, etc. allow all content (HDR10, SDR) to be optionally converted to Dolby Vision which can be more convenient - for HDR10 I don't think there's any advantage or disadvantage doing this but SDR is best viewed with ECO/Natural mode.


----------



## Hawkmarket

JPBoggis said:


> I use the Vertex2
> 
> But if you want something more simpler, the Arcana should work well too.


I'm sure it explains it on the website but I don't speak HD Fury. Help a simple man understand the difference you experience using the Arcana vs. the Vertex 2 on the Epson 5050. I like the idea of "simpler" but that usually comes with a compromise.


----------



## JPBoggis

For enabling Dolby Vision (LLDV) on the Epson 5050 (or 6050/TW9400) both will work just as well as each other.

The Arcana is much simpler than the Vertex2, so if you already have a 4K HDR capable AV receiver, then this would be the easiest (and cheaper) option for you.

If like me you have an older AV receiver that doesn't support 4K HDR and/or want to output to two displays (E.g: TV & Projector), the Vertex2 may be a better choice. It also works as a 4-way HDMI switch too.


----------



## routlaw

Correct if me if I’m wrong but if you have let’s 2-3 different devices that you would like to be able to send Dolby Vision to your 5050/6050 then the Vertex would be the better choice, right? it appears to me there is only onw input and one output with the Arcana, or perhaps I am misunderstanding. Their website leaves a bit to be desired in terms of hookups and explanations. Thanks.


----------



## Enchy

routlaw said:


> Correct if me if I’m wrong but if you have let’s 2-3 different devices that you would like to be able to send Dolby Vision to your 5050/6050 then the Vertex would be the better choice, right? it appears to me there is only onw input and one output with the Arcana, or perhaps I am misunderstanding. Their website leaves a bit to be desired in terms of hookups and explanations. Thanks.


Place it between your AVR and your projector and all of your sources will run through it.


----------



## jaredmwright

Enchy said:


> Place it between your AVR and your projector and all of your sources will run through it.


This is what I do, serves the same purpose, but your reciever needs to support it.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## marantz545

For those of you with a scope screen- is there any worries/issues with wearing out the zoom mechanism? I am just concerned with the constant changing from a the 16:9 menu screen to zooming for scope movies.


----------



## fredworld

marantz545 said:


> For those of you with a scope screen- is there any worries/issues with wearing out the zoom mechanism? I am just concerned with the constant changing from a the 16:9 menu screen to zooming for scope movies.


To minimize wear I leave the lens position as is until needed to change. I don't use the 5050 as a regular TV, it's 90+% used for movies, so most consecutive nights it's in 2.35 position.
Honestly, I have minimal _".. worries/issues with wearing out the zoom mechanism...."_


----------



## ToddB12

jaredmwright said:


> This is what I do, serves the same purpose, but your reciever needs to support it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I have a Marantz SR5015 4K receiver and a 6050UB so now you peaked my interest. I am going to order a Arcana and would be very thankful if you shared your settings for Arcana. I mainly use PS5 games and with netflix Ultra-HD subscription.


----------



## Enchy

ToddB12 said:


> I have a Marantz SR5015 4K receiver and a 6050UB so now you peaked my interest. I am going to order a Arcana and would be very thankful if you shared your settings for Arcana. I mainly use PS5 games and with netflix Ultra-HD subscription.


I'm like 90% sure that the PS5 doesn't output Dolby Vision.


----------



## ToddB12

Enchy said:


> I'm like 90% sure that the PS5 doesn't output Dolby Vision.


I also have a ultra 4k roku if that helps. I am here to learn thanks.


----------



## biglen

Guys, this is the Epson 5050/6050 thread, not the Arcana thread. You should be discussing the Arcana in an HDFury forum. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Marc D Carra

My Epson 5050ub refurbished unit arrived looking brand new. It had zero hours on the lamp and I've only put less than 20 on it. Can you tell by the service menu? Does that show 19 hrs of total projector usage? When I got it, lamp hours said zero. As you can see, i haven't even chosen a screen yet!


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> @Alaric and @Enchy, I think both of you are using the LLDV hack with an HDFury device. Can you share the EDID you are using for both the HDR and DV block? I believe our Epson ignores the custom HDR EDID but I want to cover all my bases. Bonus points if you have a Vertex 2 and can share your config file.
> 
> I'm having a hard time seeing any positive benefits on my ATV but I believe I see improvements on my Chromecast w/Google TV. I'd really rather use the ATV since it is a better streamer IMO.


It is something i'm exploring and delving into. I use a the original Vertex, which is a bit more a of a faff to use, requiring a direct laptop connection for the GUI and it's DV tab is less configurable, which seems to mean hand rolling your own EDID using an editor (modifying others) or using a selection of ones found on the net - My current 600nits one and my exploration is on here









Epson TW9400 - Vertex - LLDV


This is a VERY experimental option - It is not for everyone. Having said that, it CAN add a new lease of life to your projector, particularly when Dynamic Tone Mapping (DTM) is somewhat scarce on the groundDolby Vision is a new standard for HDR. It is a bit of a closed system and typically you




sites.google.com





I'm getting GOOD results, but also wonder about a few variables and if I can tweak things to be better


----------



## Alaric

JPBoggis said:


> I've experimented a lot and 1000 nits seems to be optimal - I think the projector's fixed HDR tone mapping curve is optimised for 1000 nits.








Epson TW9400 HDR Projector Testing | Kalibrate Limited | Home Cinema products, Calibration, DVD Players, 3D Glasses | Audio Systems | Cinema Systems


Epson TW9400 HDR Projector Testing




www.chromapure.co.uk





seems to suggest different
1200 nits - HDR setting 1
2000 nits - HDR setting 7
3000 nits - HDR setting 14
4000 nits - HDR setting 15
10,000 nits - HDR setting 16

I've been using a 600nits EDID with BT2020 colours with good results and running a Dynamic setting with about 110nits and custom gamma and the slider at 4. I'm now starting to wonder if a 2000nits EDID and 7 slider my be better. But i've yet to explore it!



> Some players such as Apple TV 4K, Sony X800m2, etc. allow all content (HDR10, SDR) to be optionally converted to Dolby Vision which can be more convenient - for HDR10 I don't think there's any advantage or disadvantage doing this but SDR is best viewed with ECO/Natural mode.


They can force LLDV. However since there is no multi layers to process into LLDV there doesn't seem to be any advantage in doing so. It shouldn't look any better and you may get cross colour spaces and IPT vs DCI P3 in BT2020

However it may simplify your set-up etc- Personally LLDV for DV sources, HDR for HDR and SDR for SDR!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> Epson TW9400 HDR Projector Testing | Kalibrate Limited | Home Cinema products, Calibration, DVD Players, 3D Glasses | Audio Systems | Cinema Systems
> 
> 
> Epson TW9400 HDR Projector Testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.chromapure.co.uk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seems to suggest different
> 1200 nits - HDR setting 1
> 2000 nits - HDR setting 7
> 3000 nits - HDR setting 14
> 4000 nits - HDR setting 15
> 10,000 nits - HDR setting 16
> 
> I've been using a 600nits EDID with BT2020 colours with good results and running a Dynamic setting with about 110nits and custom gamma and the slider at 4. I'm now starting to wonder if a 2000nits EDID and 7 slider my be better. But i've yet to explore it!
> 
> 
> 
> The can force LLDV. However since there is no multi layers to process into LLDV there doesn't seem to be any advantage in doing so. It shouldn't look any better and you may get cross colour spaces and IPT vs DCI P3 in BT2020
> 
> However it may simplify your set-up etc- Personally LLDV for DV sources, HDR for HDR and SDR for SDR!


15 for 4000 nit HDR??? Crazy talk. The only thing I ever went below 9 for was The Meg. 

I'm going to play with some content and see what the Vertex 2 reports for HDR and then align my slider to these settings. I bet they won't line up. 1000 nit HDR is pretty common and I never go above 3 due to extreme clipping.


----------



## Luminated67

PixelPusher15 said:


> 15 for 4000 nit HDR??? Crazy talk. The only thing I ever went below 9 for was The Meg.
> 
> I'm going to play with some content and see what the Vertex 2 reports for HDR and then align my slider to these settings. I bet they won't line up. 1000 nit HDR is pretty common and I never go above 3 due to extreme clipping.


The problem is on every movie even The Meg that 10000 nit value is the absolute maximum in any one scene and the vast majority are significantly below that which is why you will never run the HDR at 16.

As with everything even after 3 years of ownership I am continuing to learn things about the Epson and with HDR movies I have found that leaving the HDR slider at 8 and then adjusting the Panasonic 420's own HDR Optimiser settings works even better. In an ideal world we would have a system similar to JVC's DTM for HDR but we have to deal with what we have and for the most part it works extremely well but occasionally it gets tripped up like that underwater scene from The Meg.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> 15 for 4000 nit HDR??? Crazy talk. The only thing I ever went below 9 for was The Meg.
> 
> I'm going to play with some content and see what the Vertex 2 reports for HDR and then align my slider to these settings. I bet they won't line up. 1000 nit HDR is pretty common and I never go above 3 due to extreme clipping.


Personally i agree. Never played with The Meg. I do have the Incredibles 2 on UHD and would love to know what that was mastered at. Only time i've ever used my old HDR Bright setting at full power for. That film ate lumens for breakfast. No idea quite what i had the HDR slider at!

I used to use 2 for the majority of things, but that was using a Panasonic ub420, so rarely moved the Epson slider


----------



## PixelPusher15

Funny story that I don't know where to share but I'll share it with my 5050 buds.

So I had a rough go this past week and just wanted to watch a movie. My wife and I still hadn't seen the 60fps HDR Gemini Man so I decided now was a good time. I grabbed the disc and threw it in and started watching. I thought to myself this doesn't look any different when it first started but decided I wasn't going to care this time and jsut watched the movie. I checked the info at some point and noticed it was coming in at SDR but 4K 24hz from the UB420. Ok fine, I have HDR to SDR on so that makes sense but why 24hz. Whatever Andy, stop caring and enjoy the flick. 

I go to take out the disc when we're done to put in the next movie and what do you know...I put in the HD blu-ray like a fool. It's not even good enough to rewatch lol.


----------



## sage11x

PixelPusher15 said:


> Funny story that I don't know where to share but I'll share it with my 5050 buds.
> 
> So I had a rough go this past week and just wanted to watch a movie. My wife and I still hadn't seen the 60fps HDR Gemini Man so I decided now was a good time. I grabbed the disc and threw it in and started watching. I thought to myself this doesn't look any different when it first started but decided I wasn't going to care this time and jsut watched the movie. I checked the info at some point and noticed it was coming in at SDR but 4K 24hz from the UB420. Ok fine, I have HDR to SDR on so that makes sense but why 24hz. Whatever Andy, stop caring and enjoy the flick.
> 
> I go to take out the disc when we're done to put in the next movie and what do you know...I put in the HD blu-ray like a fool. It's not even good enough to rewatch lol.


Usually my clue is if previews play I know I probably put in the wrong disc.  but, yeah, done this many a time.


----------



## JMelhado

Hi Guys,
does anyone know a good place to order a 6050ub online. I’m in AZ and there aren’t many av places and none that I can find that carry the 6050.
Thanks in advance!
Justin


----------



## Orwellflash

JMelhado said:


> Hi Guys,
> does anyone know a good place to order a 6050ub online. I’m in AZ and there aren’t many av places and none that I can find that carry the 6050.
> Thanks in advance!
> Justin


Best Buy Magnolia is showing it available in-store in Albuquerque, but I haven't confirmed it. Listen Up also shows it as available with free shipping.


----------



## grayson

Any idea how to get better Back levels with a 4k HDR image? 
Blacks appear gray in most dark scenes, is there a setting I'm missing? 
My room is a bat cave. All black velvet ceiling and walls. 
My current settings. 
6050ub 
Digital cinema 
Lamp medium. 
Iris fully open 
HDR slider 4
Gamma - 2
Thanks


----------



## PixelPusher15

grayson said:


> Any idea how to get better Back levels with a 4k HDR image?
> Blacks appear gray in most dark scenes, is there a setting I'm missing?
> My room is a bat cave. All black velvet ceiling and walls.
> My current settings.
> 6050ub
> Digital cinema
> Lamp medium.
> Iris fully open
> HDR slider 4
> Gamma - 2
> Thanks


I've also been struggling with the "bad black level HDR" effect. Its actually usually not a black level issue but instead a dark HDR issue where there isn't enough contrast between the actual content on screen. Better tone mapping is what helps.

Is there specific content that isn't looking good? I'm having a hard time with a lot of streaming stuff I'm seeing right now and its why I'm trying to get this dang Vertex 2 and the LLDV hack to work.


----------



## ToddB12

biglen said:


> Guys, this is the Epson 5050/6050 thread, not the Arcana thread. You should be discussing the Arcana in an HDFury forum.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Sorry it may be hard to find set up for the 5050ub buried in the hdfury thread.


JMelhado said:


> Hi Guys,
> does anyone know a good place to order a 6050ub online. I’m in AZ and there aren’t many av places and none that I can find that carry the 6050.
> Thanks in advance!
> Justin


 About Us - Projector Screen | Projection Screen got mine from here.


----------



## Enchy

ToddB12 said:


> I also have a ultra 4k roku if that helps. I am here to learn thanks.


HDFury doesn't list the Roku Ultra as compatible on their site but it's what I use and I can assure you it is compatible.


----------



## Kieran

ToddB12 said:


> Sorry it may be hard to find set up for the 5050ub buried in the hdfury thread.


Use the "in this discussion" search function, search for "epson"... or search for posts by @JPBoggis @Alaric @PixelPusher15 to name a few.


----------



## ToddB12

Kieran said:


> Use the "in this discussion" search function, search for "epson"... or search for posts by @JPBoggis @Alaric @PixelPusher15 to name a few.


Yes I tried that and got hundreds of posts. I have someone helping me so thank you for your support.


----------



## grayson

PixelPusher15 said:


> I've also been struggling with the "bad black level HDR" effect. Its actually usually not a black level issue but instead a dark HDR issue where there isn't enough contrast between the actual content on screen. Better tone mapping is what helps.
> 
> Is there specific content that isn't looking good? I'm having a hard time with a lot of streaming stuff I'm seeing right now and its why I'm trying to get this dang Vertex 2 and the LLDV hack to work.


It's all sources. SDR content is fine though.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

grayson said:


> Any idea how to get better Back levels with a 4k HDR image?
> Blacks appear gray in most dark scenes, is there a setting I'm missing?
> My room is a bat cave. All black velvet ceiling and walls.
> My current settings.
> 6050ub
> Digital cinema
> Lamp medium.
> Iris fully open
> HDR slider 4
> Gamma - 2
> Thanks


My solution was a gray screen, the white screen had very bad blacks.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

The Digital Cinema and Cinema mode if they are not calibrated do not give good results, I also had raised blacks in those uncalibrated modes, after the calibration it was solved and as I said, the gray screen also helped a lot.


----------



## Ricoflashback

Lord of Cinder said:


> My solution was a gray screen, the white screen had very bad blacks.


What type of gray screen do you have? Any artifacts, lost colors - any negative effects on that type of screen?


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Ricoflashback said:


> What type of gray screen do you have? Any artifacts, lost colors - any negative effects on that type of screen?





Ricoflashback said:


> What type of gray screen do you have? Any artifacts, lost colors - any negative effects on that type of screen?


I did not buy another screen, I painted the one I already had gray. I do not see any problem, bright colors, white remains white, black very black. As simple as buying a satin gray paint and adding matte white until you get the desired tone, no special paints or anything like that.The ALR screens did not convince me because you could see the fabric of the surface in some scenes, that's why I decided to paint the screen myself. If you go too dark, the white turns gray and the black too dark, you have to find a middle ground, neither too light or too dark. For many people it will be better to opt for an ALR or gray screen buyed on some store, but I found it cheaper and easier to paint mine and I am very satisfied with the result.


----------



## Orwellflash

Lord of Cinder said:


> I did not buy another screen, I painted the one I already had gray. I do not see any problem, bright colors, white remains white, black very black. As simple as buying a satin gray paint and adding matte white until you get the desired tone, no special paints or anything like that.The ALR screens did not convince me because you could see the fabric of the surface in some scenes, that's why I decided to paint the screen myself. If you go too dark, the white turns gray and the black too dark, you have to find a middle ground, neither too light or too dark. For many people it will be better to opt for an ALR or gray screen buyed on some store, but I found it cheaper and easier to paint mine and I am very satisfied with the result.


At least some tests show Silver Screen ($200) to be as good as my Cima Neva which cost $1500 in 2013, so I find your appraisal plausible--and my choice, shall we say suboptimal 😂 At least I didn't buy the Stewart Studiotek!


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Orwellflash said:


> At least some tests show Silver Screen ($200) to be as good as my Cima Neva which cost $1500 in 2013, so I find your appraisal plausible--and my choice, shall we say suboptimal 😂 At least I didn't buy the Stewart Studiotek!


Sure, a gray commercial screen will work well, but it seemed cheaper to me to paint it, it takes no time and you hardly have to spend money. In the worst case, it can be repainted matte white.


----------



## Orwellflash

My only reservation is that I am a klutz when painting (and the emotional hurdle to clear of painting over a $1500 screen). Did you use a 1/4" nap or foam roller?


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Orwellflash said:


> My only reservation is that I am a klutz when painting (and the emotional hurdle to clear of painting over a $1500 screen). Did you use a 1/4" nap or foam roller?


It is not difficult to paint it. No foam. Better a 1/4 nap. I would save that screen and buy a cheap matte white screen to paint, break a 1300 screen ... is to consider. But it is your screen, your decision. 
If you decide to paint it, before painting it, test the color on something you can paint until you find the right color tone, so you don't paint the screen multiple times. Although according to the material of the screen, maybe you should give a pair of hands.


----------



## Orwellflash

Lord of Cinder said:


> It is not difficult to paint it. No foam. Better a 1/4 nap. I would save that screen and buy a cheap matte white screen to paint, break a 1300 screen ... is to consider. But it is your screen, your decision.
> If you decide to paint it, before painting it, test the color on something you can paint until you find the right color tone, so you don't paint the screen multiple times. Although according to the material of the screen, maybe you should give a pair of hands.


Thanks, good advice. Viví en España durante varios meses en 1979 y 2000. También estudié español allí, en el Colegio de España, Salamanca. Me encantó.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Orwellflash said:


> Thanks, good advice. Viví en España durante varios meses en 1979 y 2000. También estudié español allí, en el Colegio de España, Salamanca. Me encantó.


Muy bonita Salamanca, yo vivo en Barcelona. Un saludo


----------



## Orwellflash

Lord of Cinder said:


> Muy bonita Salamanca, yo vivo en Barcelona. Un saludo


Conozco Barcelona. Es lo mas lindo creo. Saludos desde Albuquerque, Nuevo Mexico


----------



## Lord of Cinder

S


Orwellflash said:


> Conozco Barcelona. Es lo mas lindo creo. Saludos desde Albuquerque, Nuevo Mexico


Saludos bro!


----------



## hms17B

Luminated67 said:


> The problem is on every movie even The Meg that 10000 nit value is the absolute maximum in any one scene and the vast majority are significantly below that which is why you will never run the HDR at 16.
> 
> As with everything even after 3 years of ownership I am continuing to learn things about the Epson and with HDR movies I have found that leaving the HDR slider at 8 and then adjusting the Panasonic 420's own HDR Optimiser settings works even better. In an ideal world we would have a system similar to JVC's DTM for HDR but we have to deal with what we have and for the most part it works extremely well but occasionally it gets tripped up like that underwater scene from The Meg.


Do you end up adjusting the Panasonic more than once in a movie? Its HDR setting is harder to get to than the Epson's. I have a Panasonic and have left that slider at default with Epson between 4 and 8. I find that it's better a bit lower on the bright scenes and a bit higher on the really dark scenes. I'll often just have it at 6 all the way thru.


----------



## Orwellflash

PixelPusher15 said:


> @Alaric and @Enchy, I think both of you are using the LLDV hack with an HDFury device. Can you share the EDID you are using for both the HDR and DV block? I believe our Epson ignores the custom HDR EDID but I want to cover all my bases. Bonus points if you have a Vertex 2 and can share your config file.
> 
> I'm having a hard time seeing any positive benefits on my ATV but I believe I see improvements on my Chromecast w/Google TV. I'd really rather use the ATV since it is a better streamer IMO.


I asked a similar question on HDFury support page: 

" My objective is to have chain of devices that will allow me to have DV from streaming platforms (Netflix, Apple TV, Prime Video, HBO, etc.) given that my video sink is an Epson 5050 projector, which does not process LLDV and is 18Gbps max. Chromecast wGTV has DV capability ,according to specs, but not sure it is capable of being source for LLDV output. I want to know if Chromecast will work as LLDV source and what HDFury devices would work to spoof DV with Epson projector. If not, let me know what devices would work. I assume Roku Ultra, Nvidia Shield, and Apple TV player would work with Arcana to do that, but I have a Chromecast already."

Got this response:

"Yes, the Chromeast w/ Google will send LLDV if an HDfury device (including Arcana) is configured to present an LLDV EDID. The Chromecast has issues with sending HDR/Dolby Vision when connected directly to some HDfury devices, but connecting it to the AVR with the Arcana placed after the AVR like you plan will work fine."

I now have asked what EDID is recommended for 5050 but haven't received a response yet. When (if) I get one, I will post.


----------



## Alaric

Orwellflash said:


> I now have asked what EDID is recommended for 5050 but haven't received a response yet. When (if) I get one, I will post.


MOST of the LLDV stuff appears to be based off the Vertex 2 - Which has an interface for setting LLDV with a fair few "recommended" settings, though a LOT of users are JVC and also refer to loading gamma profiles.
There are some LLDV EDID's rolled into the Vertex 2 and some people choose these.

I'm using an original Vertex which has an older interface without all of the extra LLDV settings, so i've been using EEDIT GOLD to manually adjust some EDIDs i've downloaded. Mainly tweaks to the colour for BT2020 and enabling audio features.

I'm still in the testing mode and trailing things. I wasn't happy with the inbuilt or automix and after early testing settled on a 600nit profile, but i switched to a 2000nit one on Monday along with some interface tweaks, HDR slider alteration and Dynamic mode calibration and so far am enjoying it. More details here

I don't know the Arcana interface and how it varies to the Vertex or V2 versions


----------



## Orwellflash

Alaric said:


> MOST of the LLDV stuff appears to be based off the Vertex 2 - Which has an interface for setting LLDV with a fair few "recommended" settings, though a LOT of users are JVC and also refer to loading gamma profiles.
> There are some LLDV EDID's rolled into the Vertex 2 and some people choose these.
> 
> I'm using an original Vertex which has an older interface without all of the extra LLDV settings, so i've been using EEDIT GOLD to manually adjust some EDIDs i've downloaded. Mainly tweaks to the colour for BT2020 and enabling audio features.
> 
> I'm still in the testing mode and trailing things. I wasn't happy with the inbuilt or automix and after early testing settled on a 600nit profile, but i switched to a 2000nit one on Monday along with some interface tweaks, HDR slider alteration and Dynamic mode calibration and so far am enjoying it. More details here
> 
> I don't know the Arcana interface and how it varies to the Vertex or V2 versions


Claw gave me an answer on the Arcana channel: "Arcana does not allow loading of custom EDIDs. Just set LLDV-HDR to ON in the Arcana menu." So, the question is, of course, does the Arcana provide an optimal, or "good-enough- to-please" result without tweaking, or is Vertex going to be the preferred product for us. Thanks very much for your info, I will dive into it.


----------



## Orwellflash

I don't know the Arcana interface and how it varies to the Vertex or V2 versions
[/QUOTE]


Alaric said:


> MOST of the LLDV stuff appears to be based off the Vertex 2 - Which has an interface for setting LLDV with a fair few "recommended" settings, though a LOT of users are JVC and also refer to loading gamma profiles.
> There are some LLDV EDID's rolled into the Vertex 2 and some people choose these.
> 
> I'm using an original Vertex which has an older interface without all of the extra LLDV settings, so i've been using EEDIT GOLD to manually adjust some EDIDs i've downloaded. Mainly tweaks to the colour for BT2020 and enabling audio features.
> 
> I'm still in the testing mode and trailing things. I wasn't happy with the inbuilt or automix and after early testing settled on a 600nit profile, but i switched to a 2000nit one on Monday along with some interface tweaks, HDR slider alteration and Dynamic mode calibration and so far am enjoying it. More details here
> 
> I don't know the Arcana interface and how it varies to the Vertex or V2 versions


You wrote: "I manually modified a 2000nit EDID to the correct colours" My first reaction is that the modifications will be room dependent and would best be done using calibration software suitable for HDR. Is that right?


----------



## Alaric

Orwellflash said:


> You wrote: "I manually modified a 2000nit EDID to the correct colours" My first reaction is that the modifications will be room dependent and would best be done using calibration software suitable for HDR. Is that right?


The mods i made were for BT2020. Its the RGB co-ordinates and the D65 white point - Can't recall if the ones in the profiles i had were for DCI-P3 or Dolby Visions ITC which is almost, but not quite DCI-P3 - Either way there was a distinctive colour shift, red push IIRC. 
The EDIDs i've modified are universal and using BT2020 should work on any Epson. 

I can see projector specific ones here may give a slight benefit (taken from a calibration run), but they could also mess things up - It's potentially an interesting experiment, though could take some specialised equipment to verify either way. I've a pgen but use the vertex to enable HDR for calibration runs, not sure if it would play with the Veretx and forcing DV and then doing a verification run with the altered RBG co-ordinates etc


----------



## grayson

I don't understand it I have a Batcave and a 1.0 gain screen but the results are attached. 
Could it be faulty. Could the dynamic iris be failing? Projector is only 2 months old with 27 lamp hours


----------



## Orwellflash

Alaric said:


> The mods i made were for BT2020. Its the RGB co-ordinates and the D65 white point - Can't recall if the ones in the profiles i had were for DCI-P3 or Dolby Visions ITC which is almost, but not quite DCI-P3 - Either way there was a distinctive colour shift, red push IIRC.
> The EDIDs i've modified are universal and using BT2020 should work on any Epson.
> 
> I can see projector specific ones here may give a slight benefit (taken from a calibration run), but they could also mess things up - It's potentially an interesting experiment, though could take some specialised equipment to verify either way. I've a pgen but use the vertex to enable HDR for calibration runs, not sure if it would play with the Veretx and forcing DV and then doing a verification run with the altered RBG co-ordinates etc


Thanks! I have 4 saved settings in memory (2 for SDR and 2 for HDR), Rec 709 for SDR and BT2020 for HDR, of course. Since I haven't been able to use DV, I haven't looked into ITC or DCI-P3. Do you have blacked out room?


----------



## JPBoggis

I find that 1000 nit DV max luminance and BT.2020 primaries works best with the Epson TW9400 (5050 should be similar)

The built-in custom EDID 10 (SONY A1 LLDV BT2020) should work well for Vertex2/Diva.

If you are getting the Arcana, then I think that defaults to 1000 nits but you may need to change the primaries to BT2020 (DCI-P3 may result in too much red in the image unless you have calibrated a DCI-P3 profile.)


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## jaredmwright

I have my 6050ub connected directly to the Arcana on HDMI1 at the rear of the projector due to convenience for my setup. Here are the settings I have set of relevance. I do have a calibrated DCI-P3 profile used with this and I do not notice any red push. I project onto a Carl Flexiwhite Screen with 1.1 gain at 175" measured in 16x9 format in a light controlled/partially treated room. 

I have settled on my HDR slider at 3 for the best balance on my DCI-P3 profile in Digital Cinema mode with the Arcana and the settings shown in the pictures. I will need to watch more content to see how this varies over time, but for now this seems to do very well across content. My sources consist of Disney+, Netflix, Movies Anywhere on my Nvidia Shield Pro 2019 edition. 

I have the Arcana OSD set to off so that nothing is displayed on the projector screen from the Arcana to the projector. The OLED on the unit continues to work and times out as normal. It is literally as easy as setting a few options and confirming everything works right with your projector and receiver setup. I did calibrate in SDR before adding this to ensure best outcome and so far it seems to have been worth the effort.

There may be additional changes I could make, but at this point I feel like the 6050ub and settings are a very good match and complement each other very well for my environment. Yours may differ based on many factors. I don't have a Dolby Vision Blu-ray player to compare against at this time, but 99% of my content has moved to streaming so not sure I will invest in it at this time.


----------



## Orwellflash

Thanks for the info! 175" screen!!!


----------



## Marc D Carra

So I'm trying to decide on a screen size for my 5050. Its about 17 feet from the wall and i sit 10 feet away. Right now I'm watching it at 120" I want the brightest possible image with good blacks, even if have to sacrifice some color accuracy. I have a dark room with no reflections, and I'm still using a grey wall. I tried a cheap white screen and black levels were unacceptable. I want the same image the wall is giving me but maybe a bit brighter. Do i need to go to a smaller image? Grey screen? Cinegrey3D? Should I move the projector closer than 17ft to get a brighter 120" image?


----------



## rekbones

You might be a candidate for some of the custom paints like Black Flame. Check out the DIY screen section for more advice. Smaller screen and/or moving the projector closer will both result in some gain in brightness. When you tried the white screen did you recalibrate the projector for black level or just leave the settings the same?


----------



## Alaric

JPBoggis said:


> I find that 1000 nit DV max luminance and BT.2020 primaries works best with the Epson TW9400 (5050 should be similar)
> 
> The built-in custom EDID 10 (SONY A1 LLDV BT2020) should work well for Vertex2/Diva.
> 
> If you are getting the Arcana, then I think that defaults to 1000 nits but you may need to change the primaries to BT2020 (DCI-P3 may result in too much red in the image unless you have calibrated a DCI-P3 profile.)


The reason i'm trialling a 2000 nits profile is according to this the slider at 7 is 2000 nits, which IF true they should work nicely together. I was previously running a 600nits profile as in the early stages i wasn't over happy with 1000nits. However i was running a calibrated filter mode and the slider down on 2.

I'm currently working my way through some of the settings to tweak things along with research into HDR, max CLL/Fall and so forth - I think there's a fair bit of performance left for the 9400 as most of the work prior has been with JVCs and custom curves!


----------



## jake51

I read that the light path isn't sealed and that this can cause dust blobs
Haven't seen those since my first Panasonic projector 18 years ago
How many of you owners are affected by dust blobs?


----------



## fredworld

You must be new here if you have to ask. See *these search results for dust blob*. 😉
And here's *my dust blob story*.


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## jake51

634 is a whole lot of pages..


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## biglen

jake51 said:


> 634 is a whole lot of pages..


That's why there's a search button. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## hms17B

jake51 said:


> I read that the light path isn't sealed and that this can cause dust blobs
> Haven't seen those since my first Panasonic projector 18 years ago
> How many of you owners are affected by dust blobs?


Never had one. But I keep dust out of the room. Nothing fancy, I just don't let it in. Don't open windows near it, no pets, make sure my own hair isn't falling out.


----------



## Marc D Carra

rekbones said:


> You might be a candidate for some of the custom paints like Black Flame. Check out the DIY screen section for more advice. Smaller screen and/or moving the projector closer will both result in some gain in brightness. When you tried the white screen did you recalibrate the projector for black level or just leave the settings the same?


I recalibrated my settings just using the Spear & Munsil UHD disc. I still cannot believe the image quality this grey paint is giving me. The only reason I need a screen is to hide that small window in the upper right corner


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## markymiles

Sounds like you're a fan of projecting onto grey then like me. You know you can get any screen and just spray it right?. That's what I did to mine. I had a stewart grayhawk G3 but the surface got scratched off by something in a little patch. As it happened I didn't like it anyway. Painted with a neutral grey and never looked back. I tried Black flame and Black widow save yourself the bother and waste of money, just go for a plain grey.


----------



## Orwellflash

markymiles said:


> Sounds like you're a fan of projecting onto grey then like me. You know you can get any screen and just spray it right?. That's what I did to mine. I had a stewart grayhawk G3 but the surface got scratched off by something in a little patch. As it happened I didn't like it anyway. Painted with a neutral grey and never looked back. I tried Black flame and Black widow save yourself the bother and waste of money, just go for a plain grey.


Does anyone who is using a grey painted screen have a bat cave HT? I'm wondering if the benefits would be as substantial in that kind of room.


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## Lord of Cinder

There are people who have them and say that if they notice the improvement, however, there are people who have tried them and prefer white screen in batcave. I also painted my white screen gray and they are all advantages, no special paints, a neutral gray and that's it. Of course, my room is not dedicated, it only has a bit of black velvet on the ceiling.


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## PixelPusher15

Orwellflash said:


> Does anyone who is using a grey painted screen have a bat cave HT? I'm wondering if the benefits would be as substantial in that kind of room.


Just to be clear on the definition of bat cave as it relates to screen color. To get to full bar cave status where a white screen isn’t affected by the room you need to be pretty much fully surrounded in velvet. No HT paint reduces reflections enough to the point that the screen isn’t affected. Carpet also needs to be jet black and of course the ceiling should be velvet lined too. Pretty much anything short of that the reflected light of the screen will make its way back to the screen.

I have 5’ of velvet flock and the rest of the theater is dark flat charcoal paint or carpet. I 100% get splash back lighting. I can hold a piece of velvet in front of the projector and still see the screen pretty easily where the velvet is blocking the light. I also have a .8 gain white acoustic screen. Although it is a negative gain screen due to light loss through the screen as opposed to a grey screen which absorbs light.

I’m not saying you have to go to these extremes to have an enjoyable theater. But to reap the full 1.0 gain lambertian screen benefits the room needs to be heavily treated. If you’re just doing black paint then I am of the opinion that a slightly grey 0.8-0.9 gain screen will be the best option. Be careful though, a lot of screen manufacturers inflate their gain numbers. I’d order a bunch of samples and test what you like. Order a StudioTek 100 and StudioTek 130 sample too. The ST130 is actually a great screen for not fully velvet rooms. Since it has a narrower viewing cone, some of that reflected light doesn’t actually make it back to the viewer.


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## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> Just to be clear on the definition of bat cave as it relates to screen color. To get to full bar cave status where a white screen isn’t affected by the room you need to be pretty much fully surrounded in velvet. No HT paint reduces reflections enough to the point that the screen isn’t affected. Carpet also needs to be jet black and of course the ceiling should be velvet lined too. Pretty much anything short of that the reflected light of the screen will make its way back to the screen.


Yeah my room blocks like 99.99% of external light, ceiling and screen wall painted black, everything else a very dark greyblue. With the projector and lights off I can still see my 1.1 gain white screen glowing.

I'm planning on switching to an AT screen and getting in-wall speakers soon, so I figure now is a good time to get a grey screen. I have a sample of cinegray 3D AT coming that I'm hoping will do the trick.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> Yeah my room blocks like 99.99% of external light, ceiling and screen wall painted black, everything else a very dark greyblue. With the projector and lights off I can still see my 1.1 gain white screen glowing.
> 
> I'm planning on switching to an AT screen and getting in-wall speakers soon, so I figure now is a good time to get a grey screen. I have a sample of cinegray 3D AT coming that I'm hoping will do the trick.


I'll be surprised if you are happy with it, honestly. The CineGrey 3D had too much shimmer to me. Also, if you are putting this screen just a couple inches in front of those in walls then I *heavily *recommend against a microperf screen. You will get unfixable acoustic attenuation. Take a look at this report I did on 31 AT materials. But here are two images that will show you why you don't want an MP screen close to the speakers. The grey line is 1/48th smoothing and the blue is psychoacoustic (what you should hear). At 4" those peaks and nulls are too tight to fix and are 3db (aka they are perceptible). At 12" you are getting a pretty smooth decline in output which is for sure fixable with EQ. I've got these charts for a bunch of materials and at 4", woven screens perform much, much better.


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'll be surprised if you are happy with it, honestly. The CineGrey 3D had too much shimmer to me. Also, if you are putting this screen just a couple inches in front of those in walls then I *heavily *recommend against a microperf screen. You will get unfixable acoustic attenuation. Take a look at this report I did on 31 AT materials. But here are two images that will show you why you don't want an MP screen close to the speakers. The grey line is 1/48th smoothing and the blue is psychoacoustic (what you should hear). At 4" those peaks and nulls are too tight to fix and are 3db (aka they are perceptible). At 12" you are getting a pretty smooth decline in output which is for sure fixable with EQ. I've got these charts for a bunch of materials and at 4", woven screens perform much, much better.
> View attachment 3202749
> 
> View attachment 3202750


Dang. I'm glad I brought it up.

Bummer about the shimmer. My current screen is the white Silver Ticket screen and it has noticeable shimmer and a pretty bad hot spot.

I have a sample of the Cinegray and Elite Screen's woven screen (I think it's the 1080P3) coming in a week or so, but after reading your post I definitely have a lot more to consider. Interesting to see that the SilverTicket WAB performed pretty well. SilverTicket doesn't seem to offer it in their DIY section but maybe I could contact them for a 120" option that fits my current frame.

Lots more to think about.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> Dang. I'm glad I brought it up.
> 
> Bummer about the shimmer. My current screen is the white Silver Ticket screen and it has noticeable shimmer and a pretty bad hot spot.
> 
> I have a sample of the Cinegray and Elite Screen's woven screen (I think it's the 1080P3) coming in a week or so, but after reading your post I definitely have a lot more to consider. Interesting to see that the SilverTicket WAB performed pretty well. SilverTicket doesn't seem to offer it in their DIY section but maybe I could contact them for a 120" option that fits my current frame.
> 
> Lots more to think about.


The Elite 1080p3 isn’t a great woven material compared to what else is out there. Their AcousticPro UHD is good but I don’t think they offer it in a DIY option. It’s very similar to the XY Screens Soundmax 4K screen though. Actually, obtaining a sample of the UHD is easier/cheaper than a XY sample. You could get the Elite sample as a way to evaluate the XY 4K material.

SilverTicket does offer replacement material in the WAB at a pretty good price too:https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/replacement-screen-material-for-fixed-frame-screens


----------



## Orwellflash

PixelPusher15 said:


> Just to be clear on the definition of bat cave as it relates to screen color. To get to full bar cave status where a white screen isn’t affected by the room you need to be pretty much fully surrounded in velvet. No HT paint reduces reflections enough to the point that the screen isn’t affected. Carpet also needs to be jet black and of course the ceiling should be velvet lined too. Pretty much anything short of that the reflected light of the screen will make its way back to the screen.
> 
> I have 5’ of velvet flock and the rest of the theater is dark flat charcoal paint or carpet. I 100% get splash back lighting. I can hold a piece of velvet in front of the projector and still see the screen pretty easily where the velvet is blocking the light. I also have a .8 gain white acoustic screen. Although it is a negative gain screen due to light loss through the screen as opposed to a grey screen which absorbs light.
> 
> I’m not saying you have to go to these extremes to have an enjoyable theater. But to reap the full 1.0 gain lambertian screen benefits the room needs to be heavily treated. If you’re just doing black paint then I am of the opinion that a slightly grey 0.8-0.9 gain screen will be the best option. Be careful though, a lot of screen manufacturers inflate their gain numbers. I’d order a bunch of samples and test what you like. Order a StudioTek 100 and StudioTek 130 sample too. The ST130 is actually a great screen for not fully velvet rooms. Since it has a narrower viewing cone, some of that reflected light doesn’t actually make it back to the viewer.


I have some vulnerabilities still, like a dark brown carpet, and 2.5 ft margin of brown terrazzo tile behind the end of the carpet, in front of projector but behind our two recliners, which are dark burgundy, but we put black fleece throws over them. I may get a cheap screen and try the grey, though taking down the Cima is going to be a pain, and require my wife's help, which always comes at a price.  I am encouraged though that I have the speaker grills off L/C/R JBL Stage 130's in front, whose cones are white (didn't think to investigate that before buying!), and they are almost, but not quite) invisible when watching a film.


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> The Elite 1080p3 isn’t a great woven material compared to what else is out there. Their AcousticPro UHD is good but I don’t think they offer it in a DIY option. It’s very similar to the XY Screens Soundmax 4K screen though. Actually, obtaining a sample of the UHD is easier/cheaper than a XY sample. You could get the Elite sample as a way to evaluate the XY 4K material.
> 
> SilverTicket does offer replacement material in the WAB at a pretty good price too:https://www.silverticketproducts.com/products/replacement-screen-material-for-fixed-frame-screens


I spent like 10 minutes scouring their site looking for that link. Thank you.

I'll compare the 1080p3 to the Silver Ticket material. I'm not going to rule out spandex either but the appeal of a drop in replacement from Silver Ticket can't be overstated.

Again, appreciate the help and the comparisons on your site.


----------



## pottscb

Orwellflash said:


> I have some vulnerabilities still, like a dark brown carpet, and 2.5 ft margin of brown terrazzo tile behind the end of the carpet, in front of projector but behind our two recliners, which are dark burgundy, but we put black fleece throws over them. I may get a cheap screen and try the grey, though taking down the Cima is going to be a pain, and require my wife's help, which always comes at a price.  I am encouraged though that I have the speaker grills off L/C/R JBL Stage 130's in front, whose cones are white (didn't think to investigate that before buying!), and they are almost, but not quite) invisible when watching a film.


Not something most would think of…I always notice the speaker “glint” at my local movieplex on dark scenes.


----------



## isingh

Hello Epson 5050/6050 UB owners  

I am stuck on making a decision, whether I should go native 4K with JVC NX5/RS1000 or SONY 325ES or JVC NX7/RS2000. Has any of you compared these projectors with 5050/6050 for HDR content ? And how was your experience with black levels? I will be installing in a small room (14'x11') , with 106" screen on 11ft wall, the seating will be at about 8-9 ft from screen. 

The cost difference is about 2-3k depending on which one I pick, but aside from that. what is your true experience on HDR content watching and black levels for movie watching -- not for gaming? 

Any help is appreciated.


----------



## rekbones

isingh said:


> Hello Epson 5050/6050 UB owners
> 
> I am stuck on making a decision, whether I should go native 4K with JVC NX5/RS1000 or SONY 325ES or JVC NX7/RS2000. Has any of you compared these projectors with 5050/6050 for HDR content ? And how was your experience with black levels? I will be installing in a small room (14'x11') , with 106" screen on 11ft wall, the seating will be at about 8-9 ft from screen.
> 
> The cost difference is about 2-3k depending on which one I pick, but aside from that. what is your true experience on HDR content watching and black levels for movie watching -- not for gaming?
> 
> Any help is appreciated.


Read this thread and if its too long just skip to the end and read their independent reviews. Michigan projector shoot out


----------



## PixelPusher15

For those using the HDFury LLDV hack, or those that tried and didn't like it, I created a thread for us 5050 owners to document what has worked and what hasn't worked. There doesn't seem to be many of us and I know for a fact that a couple of us with a Vertex 2 aren't getting the claimed results. Here's the thread:Epson 5050 and HDFURY for Dolby Vision LLDV Dynamic Tone... 

If you are getting good results with this solution please post here to help us that aren't.


----------



## Pretorian

Is it possible to remove dust "dots" from 6050? It has worked for two years and suddenly I have this big greenish dot that you can see clearly during dark scenes.
Is there anything I can do?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Pretorian said:


> Is it possible to remove dust "dots" from 6050? It has worked for two years and suddenly I have this big greenish dot that you can see clearly during dark scenes.
> Is there anything I can do?


That sucks dude. No, not really. Theoretically, it can be taken apart and cleaned but I wouldn't do that unless you have done something like it before and are confident in your skills. It easily can be made worse by jostling more dust particles lose. How long is your warranty over there? The 6050 here has a three-year warranty. I'd call Epson. I'd also try to get it repaired and not replaced. In the states they replace it with a refurb that may have more issues than the first.


----------



## fredworld

Pretorian said:


> Is it possible to remove dust "dots" from 6050? It has worked for two years and suddenly I have this big greenish dot that you can see clearly during dark scenes.
> Is there anything I can do?





PixelPusher15 said:


> That sucks dude. No, not really. Theoretically, it can be taken apart and cleaned but I wouldn't do that unless you have done something like it before and are confident in your skills. It easily can be made worse by jostling more dust particles lose. How long is your warranty over there? The 6050 here has a three-year warranty. I'd call Epson. I'd also try to get it repaired and not replaced. In the states they replace it with a refurb that may have more issues than the first.


Supplementing what Andy posted, *here's some search results on dust blobs* on this thread.
Meantime, I'm living peacefully with my dust blob.
Good luck.


----------



## jasonbenson2004

Anyone have any calibration settings for the 6050ub. Out have any links you could share.


----------



## fredworld

jasonbenson2004 said:


> Anyone have any calibration settings for the 6050ub. Out have any links you could share.


As usual
Here's* my take.*


----------



## Pretorian

PixelPusher15 said:


> That sucks dude. No, not really. Theoretically, it can be taken apart and cleaned but I wouldn't do that unless you have done something like it before and are confident in your skills. It easily can be made worse by jostling more dust particles lose. How long is your warranty over there? The 6050 here has a three-year warranty. I'd call Epson. I'd also try to get it repaired and not replaced. In the states they replace it with a refurb that may have more issues than the first.


Thank you.
It is three years so I dont think that is a problem. I am waiting for Epson to respond to my mail. Damn it!


----------



## audiowarrior

Hello Epson 5050UB owners,

I got mine yesterday and I love it. But, I discovered a small issue...

I noticed that the 4K eshift technology sometimes makes the images soft and/or blurry...

I use this projector to watch movies and tv on Apple TV 4K, Netflix, and Plex.

Am I alone here? Do your 4K eshift images always look sharp OR a bit soft/blurry like mine in some scenes?

Close up well-lit shots are sharper but medium and long shots, especially in darkly lit scenes are more blurry.

I just ordered a fiber optic 8k hdmi cable hoping it’ll help. I’m desperate.


----------



## rekbones

audiowarrior said:


> Hello Epson 5050UB owners,
> 
> I got mine yesterday and I love it. But, I discovered a pretty big issue...
> 
> I noticed that the 4K eshift technology makes the images soft and/or blurry at times...
> 
> I use this projector to watch movies and tv on Apple TV 4K, Netflix, and Plex.
> 
> Am I alone here? Do your 4K eshift images look sharp OR a bit soft/blurry like mine in some scenes?
> 
> Close up well-lit shots are sharper but medium and long shots, especially in darkly lit scenes are more blurry.
> 
> I just ordered a fiber optic 8k hdmi cable hoping it’ll help. I’m desperate.


Is this your first projector? Viewing streaming content blown up to such a large size readily exposes its flaws. You won't relies the projectors true potential until you see full bandwidth UHD BR or a uncompressed ripped file. Doesn't mean for sure you don't have an issue but don't expect a lot out of streaming. What kind of files are you viewing with PLEX and do you have it setup to send full bandwidth uncompressed files. If your comparing it to a TV a projector doesn't have a chance as it's only true advantage is picture size.


----------



## audiowarrior

rekbones said:


> Is this your first projector? Viewing streaming content blown up to such a large size readily exposes its flaws. You won't relies the projectors true potential until you see full bandwidth UHD BR or a uncompressed ripped file. Doesn't mean for sure you don't have an issue but don't expect a lot out of streaming. What kind of files are you viewing with PLEX and do you have it setup to send full bandwidth uncompressed files. If your comparing it to a TV a projector doesn't have a chance as it's only true advantage is picture size.


I think you’re absolutely right..

I was looking at a compressed version of 007 on Plex... then I went to Vudu and saw 1917 and it looks 10 times better.

I guess streaming sources is the issue. I’ll keep testing.

Thank you, and yea I’m not an expert on projectors


----------



## audiowarrior

By the way guys, how can I see what my projector is displaying in terms of hz, hdr, and resolution in real-time?

I just want to make sure the hdmi cable I have is truly projecting the best image

for example, if I’m watching Dune, is there a setting I can turn on to see if I’m getting 4K, 60hz, hdr, 4:2:2 chroma? (As I’m watching the film)


----------



## rekbones

audiowarrior said:


> By the way guys, how can I see what my projector is displaying in terms of hz, hdr, and resolution in real-time?
> 
> I just want to make sure the hdmi cable I have is truly projecting the best image
> 
> for example, if I’m watching Dune, is there a setting I can turn on to see if I’m getting 4K, 60hz, hdr, 4:2:2 chroma? (As I’m watching the film)


Simple, projector remote, menu click down to info select projector info and it will display all you want to know.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> As usual
> Here's* my take.*


I've been wanting to get the Spears and Munsil disc, to make sure my professional calibration stays in check. I have my Panasonic 420 set to output SDR to HDR for tone mapping, so I'd obviously turn that off while calibrating. After I calibrate HDR and SDR, and put the 420 back to tone mapping, which settings would I use when watching HDR content on the 420? Do I use the SDR settings, since I'm tone mapping, or do I use the HDR setting?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> I've been wanting to get the Spears and Munsil disc, to make sure my professional calibration stays in check. I have my Panasonic 420 set to output SDR to HDR for tone mapping, so I'd obviously turn that off while calibrating. After I calibrate HDR and SDR, and put the 420 back to tone mapping, which settings would I use when watching HDR content on the 420? Do I use the SDR settings, since I'm tone mapping, or do I use the HDR setting?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


You’d use the SDR setting.

I’m not sure if you do but ideally you’d have a SDR BT2020 calibration saved just for the UB420.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> You’d use the SDR setting.
> 
> I’m not sure if you do but ideally you’d have a SDR BT2020 calibration saved just for the UB420.


What about other sources, like my HTPC and Shield? Will the settings I make using the 420, work with those 2 ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> What about other sources, like my HTPC and Shield? Will the settings I make using the 420, work with those 2 ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


They should as long as your sources match. The S&M disc is fairly limited in what it can alter so you shouldn’t be seeing massive changes anyway.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> They should as long as your sources match. The S&M disc is fairly limited in what it can alter so you shouldn’t be seeing massive changes anyway.


Gotcha. Also, when you said to make a setting for SDR BT.2020, you mean I should leave tone mapping enabled on the 420, and make a calibration, correct? 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Ricoflashback

rekbones said:


> Is this your first projector? Viewing streaming content blown up to such a large size readily exposes its flaws. You won't relies the projectors true potential until you see full bandwidth UHD BR or a uncompressed ripped file. Doesn't mean for sure you don't have an issue but don't expect a lot out of streaming. What kind of files are you viewing with PLEX and do you have it setup to send full bandwidth uncompressed files. If your comparing it to a TV a projector doesn't have a chance as it's only true advantage is picture size.


I exclusively stream and get a great picture out of Netflix, Amazon Prime, AppleTV+, BritBox, Acorn, AMC+ and HBOMax. Maybe it's my smaller 100" projection screen but no complaints here.


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> Gotcha. Also, when you said to make a setting for SDR BT.2020, you mean I should leave tone mapping enabled on the 420, and make a calibration, correct?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


My guess is that you have two (maybe more) calibrations. One for HDR and one for SDR. You HDR calibration will have different gamma settings than the SDR one. They also will most likely have different CMS settings for their respective color space targets. BT2020 for HDR and Rec709 for SDR. When you tone map your disc to SDR but maintain the BT2020 colorspace you won't have a "correct" calibration to match. Going on the assumption that you don't have a SDR/BT2020 calibration. Theoretically, you want the gamma settings from the SDR cal and the CMS settings from the HDR cal. But, if you tried to copy them over to a new profile they most likely won't transfer. The gamma and greyscale (which can also impact gamma) will most likely have an impact on the CMS, even though I believe it shouldn't. You could try merging your gamma settings from the SDR calibration, and the CMS/other color settings from the HDR calibration into one new memory preset but if your calibrator used the greyscale to also alter the gamma then it would be a useless task as it would be pretty difficult to unwind gamma from color balance at that point.

That's the long winded answer. The short one is if your calibrator didn't specifically give you a calibration for SDR gamma with BT2020 colorspace targets then you should just use the SDR calibration with your Panny that I'm sure you got.


----------



## audiowarrior

rekbones said:


> Simple, projector remote, menu click down to info select projector info and it will display all you want to know.


thank you

1. I see the specs in projector info, but I noticed that it doesn’t actually tell me what I’m producing in real-time. For example, 007 isn’t a full 4K file, it’s like a couple hundred pixels less. Is there any other way to see if maybe my projector isn’t meeting it’s full potential for each film? Maybe I can toggle something that says, you’re not getting 4K hdr on this film, you’re only get 1080 SDR.

2.Is it possible to get 4:2:2 chroma with 4K hdr on this projector with Apple TV 4K? My screen turns green when I set that. I can only do 4:2:0 chroma in 4K hdr. I’m assuming it’s my hdmi cable? Thoughts?


----------



## audiowarrior

Ricoflashback said:


> I exclusively stream and get a great picture out of Netflix, Amazon Prime, AppleTV+, BritBox, Acorn, AMC+ and HBOMax. Maybe it's my smaller 100" projection screen but no complaints here.


Are all the faces in each scene sharp for you in terms of picture?

Or is there a slight soft/blur sometimes? Maybe my expectations are too high. But I was expecting everything to look really sharp like tv.

I just have this paranoia that eshift is causing the picture to slightly blur sometimes.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> My guess is that you have two (maybe more) calibrations. One for HDR and one for SDR. You HDR calibration will have different gamma settings than the SDR one. They also will most likely have different CMS settings for their respective color space targets. BT2020 for HDR and Rec709 for SDR. When you tone map your disc to SDR but maintain the BT2020 colorspace you won't have a "correct" calibration to match. Going on the assumption that you don't have a SDR/BT2020 calibration. Theoretically, you want the gamma settings from the SDR cal and the CMS settings from the HDR cal. But, if you tried to copy them over to a new profile they most likely won't transfer. The gamma and greyscale (which can also impact gamma) will most likely have an impact on the CMS, even though I believe it shouldn't. You could try merging your gamma settings from the SDR calibration, and the CMS/other color settings from the HDR calibration into one new memory preset but if your calibrator used the greyscale to also alter the gamma then it would be a useless task as it would be pretty difficult to unwind gamma from color balance at that point.
> 
> That's the long winded answer. The short one is if your calibrator didn't specifically give you a calibration for SDR gamma with BT2020 colorspace targets then you should just use the SDR calibration with your Panny that I'm sure you got.


The guy who calibrated my 5050, was the one who set the Panasonic 420 to do tone mapping, so I'm sure he calibrated based on that. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

audiowarrior said:


> Are all the faces in each scene sharp for you in terms of picture?
> 
> Or is there a slight soft/blur sometimes? Maybe my expectations are too high. But I was expecting everything to look really sharp like tv.
> 
> I just have this paranoia that eshift is causing the picture to slightly blur sometimes.


What Image Enhancement setting are you using? I have settled on using 3 but occasionally for a bad source, I'll change it to 4 and accept a few artifacts I get. 

Rico has the TK700STi which is a sharper projector overall.


----------



## Ricoflashback

PixelPusher15 said:


> What Image Enhancement setting are you using? I have settled on using 3 but occasionally for a bad source, I'll change it to 4 and accept a few artifacts I get.
> 
> Rico has the TK700STi which is a sharper projector overall.


Yes, a BenQ PJ and I also stream with the Nvidia Shield Pro with AI Upscaling on high. It makes a big difference. 4K DLP projectors have very sharp images but suffer from lower contrast and not very good black levels. A grey screen can help with that. I’m a stickler for a sharp image and excellent motion handling for sports. I know folks talk about the video quality of Blu-ray Discs but since I stream heavily, it’s a solution that has worked for me. I’m amazed at the amount of quality content that is out there. It seems like everyone wants to get in on providing as much original content as they can and charging for their streaming channel. I probably pay too much for all the services but it’s fun to watch.


----------



## audiowarrior

PixelPusher15 said:


> What Image Enhancement setting are you using? I have settled on using 3 but occasionally for a bad source, I'll change it to 4 and accept a few artifacts I get.
> 
> Rico has the TK700STi which is a sharper projector overall.


honestly, I don’t know if I am using any. What options do I have for image enhancement?What 3 are you using? How many are there?


----------



## PixelPusher15

On the remote there’s an image enhancement button right next to the color mode button. Press it. You’ll get 5 presets + off. This setting is saved based on picture mode and the default is either 1 or 2. The jump between 3 and 4 is a biggie and can some noise to the image. These presets control a couple sliders for advanced sharpening. You can actually see how big a jump each preset makes if you pull up these sliders. I forgot how atm.


----------



## audiowarrior

PixelPusher15 said:


> On the remote there’s an image enhancement button right next to the color mode button. Press it. You’ll get 5 presets + off. This setting is saved based on picture mode and the default is either 1 or 2. The jump between 3 and 4 is a biggie and can some noise to the image. These presets control a couple sliders for advanced sharpening. You can actually see how big a jump each preset makes if you pull up these sliders. I forgot how atm.


fascinating.

do I need to calibrate these 5 presets myself? Or no, Epson already has 5 presets automatically calibrated and ready to go? I’m curious what each preset does on a technical level.


----------



## PixelPusher15

audiowarrior said:


> fascinating.
> 
> do I need to calibrate these 5 presets myself? Or no, Epson already has 5 presets automatically calibrated and ready to go? I’m curious what each preset does on a technical level.


I was wrong, it controls 4 different sliders. Here’s the Image Enhancement menu under Image.


----------



## audiowarrior

Awesome, thanks for sharing. And how did you decide on 25 and 4 values?


----------



## audiowarrior

Ricoflashback said:


> I exclusively stream and get a great picture out of Netflix, Amazon Prime, AppleTV+, BritBox, Acorn, AMC+ and HBOMax. Maybe it's my smaller 100" projection screen but no complaints here.


is your Apple TV menu slightly blurry like mine or is it crisp text?


----------



## PixelPusher15

audiowarrior said:


> Awesome, thanks for sharing. And how did you decide on 25 and 4 values?


Those are the default values for Preset 3


----------



## Enchy

audiowarrior said:


> thank you
> 
> 1. I see the specs in projector info, but I noticed that it doesn’t actually tell me what I’m producing in real-time. For example, 007 isn’t a full 4K file, it’s like a couple hundred pixels less. Is there any other way to see if maybe my projector isn’t meeting it’s full potential for each film? Maybe I can toggle something that says, you’re not getting 4K hdr on this film, you’re only get 1080 SDR.
> 
> 2.Is it possible to get 4:2:2 chroma with 4K hdr on this projector with Apple TV 4K? My screen turns green when I set that. I can only do 4:2:0 chroma in 4K hdr. I’m assuming it’s my hdmi cable? Thoughts?



the projector doesn't know the resolution of the source content, only the player does. If you have a 960p file playing from a 1080p source, the projector only knows it's getting a 1080p signal.
It could be your HDMI cable, but for most content there isn't a huge difference between 4:2:0 and 4:2:2. If you see 59.94Hz or 23.97Hz that's just the actual NTSC standard so don't worry if that's what you're seeing. Also if you're playing a 24fps video file, you'll want your source sending a 24Hz signal to avoid a 3:2 pulldown.


----------



## Ricoflashback

audiowarrior said:


> is your Apple TV menu slightly blurry like mine or is it crisp text?


My Apple TV Menu looks like this…


----------



## audiowarrior

My Apple TV 4K menu text and icons are slightly blurry, it’s not sharp/crisp. Am I alone here? Any other Epson 5050 owners experience this?


----------



## Enchy

audiowarrior said:


> My Apple TV 4K menu text and icons are slightly blurry, it’s not sharp/crisp. Am I alone here? Any other Epson 5050 owners experience this?


Gonna ask the obvious question. You've verified it's in focus, right?


----------



## PixelPusher15

audiowarrior said:


> My Apple TV 4K menu text and icons are slightly blurry, it’s not sharp/crisp. Am I alone here? Any other Epson 5050 owners experience this?


Press the Pattern button on your remote and take some close up photos of the intersecting lines


----------



## audiowarrior

Maybe it’s my imagination... how does this look to you guys?

edit: oh wow, image enhancement preset 3 really helped sharpen the Apple TV menu...


----------



## audiowarrior

PixelPusher15 said:


> What Image Enhancement setting are you using? I have settled on using 3 but occasionally for a bad source, I'll change it to 4 and accept a few artifacts I get.
> 
> Rico has the TK700STi which is a sharper projector overall.


I love you man, image enhancement preset 3 helped sharpen my movies and apple menu! Thank you


----------



## fredworld

audiowarrior said:


> View attachment 3205018
> 
> 
> Maybe it’s my imagination... how does this look to you guys?
> 
> edit: oh wow, image enhancement preset 3 really helped sharpen the Apple TV menu...


That looks SO wrong to me, despite the macro image. They should look like solid white lines (not two sets of jaggies) and could be the primary reason for blurred images. You should review the owners manual for convergence/panel alignment. It's not hard, but can be tedious and requires patience as you go through the learning curve. The manual has clear instructions and if followed correctly you should be able to get things spot on. HOWEVER, if the projector is defective in this area then you'll never get solid white lines. Epson sent me a refurb replacement because of a dust blob complaint I made but after discovering a focus issue and that I couldn't get the lines to converge without color bleeding, like my original projector can, I rejected the refurb and decided to live with my dust blob. Perhaps others more knowledgeable than I might have a different opinion.


----------



## audiowarrior

fredworld said:


> That looks SO wrong to me, despite the macro image. They should look like solid white lines (not two sets of jaggies) and could be the primary reason for blurred images. You should review the owners manual for convergence/panel alignment. It's not hard, but can be tedious and requires patience as you go through the learning curve. The manual has clear instructions and if followed correctly you should be able to get things spot on. HOWEVER, if the projector is defective in this area then you'll never get solid white lines. Epson sent me a refurb replacement because of a dust blob complaint I made but after discovering a focus issue and that I couldn't get the lines to converge without color bleeding, like my original projector can, I rejected the refurb and decided to live with my dust blob. Perhaps others more knowledgeable than I might have a different opinion.


Hmmm, I’m no expert but isn’t this normal pixel placement?

Can you please stand close to your projector’s pattern and send me a photo?


----------



## audiowarrior

here is another angle with image enhancement turned off.


----------



## fredworld

audiowarrior said:


> View attachment 3205023
> 
> 
> here is another angle with image enhancement turned off.


I think you're correct. It was the macro image that threw me off. It looks fine. I've edited my prior post so as not to mislead anyone.


----------



## Enchy

I got the HD Spears and Munsil disk so I could do a calibration for 3d content and realized that my PS3 (main 3d blu ray player) outputs a 4:4:4 signal, but the Epson video range setting set to "auto" doesn't put it to full range. I had to manually change the setting. Now I'm thinking it's probably doing that on my Xbox and PS5 as well, both of which I have set to RGB. Anyone else experienced this?


----------



## biglen

Is anyone using an Nvidia Shield Pro with their 5050? I have a Shield from 2015, that doesn't do the upscaling. I'm curious if the Pro would improve my PQ when using YouTube TV, over the 5050 upscaler. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> Is anyone using an Nvidia Shield Pro with their 5050? I have a Shield from 2015, that doesn't do the upscaling. I'm curious if the Pro would improve my PQ when using YouTube TV, over the 5050 upscaler.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I had a Shield Tube for a minute and did enjoy the upscaling for YTTV. Def better than the 5050 upscaling IMO. I don’t know if I thought it was good enough to buy just for that but that’s just me. I went with the ATV4K because of its superior frame rate matching. Ironically, I may need to switch away from it to get the LLDV back to work and the Shield may have been the better pick from the get go.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> I had a Shield Tube for a minute and did enjoy the upscaling for YTTV. Def better than the 5050 upscaling IMO. I don’t know if I thought it was good enough to buy just for that but that’s just me. I went with the ATV4K because of its superior frame rate matching. Ironically, I may need to switch away from it to get the LLDV back to work and the Shield may have been the better pick from the get go.


So what's the difference between the Tube and Pro ? Is the Pro worth $50 more ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> So what's the difference between the Tube and Pro ? Is the Pro worth $50 more ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


For streaming and Dolby Vision and Atmos no real difference. The Tube is 32-bit and has less memory. The Pro has extra capability with external ports for storage and being able to host a Plex server and is better for gaming. For me, I would only buy the Pro since it is likely to get future updates that the Tube may not. Either way currently for streaming they are pretty much the same. 

I also find it interesting that others have issues with the 5050ub and Shield Pro and Dolby Vision, it is rock solid and good for me. I wonder if other devices connected are causing issues for some, similar story with AppleTV and the poor experience. I have a 6050ub, maybe firmware differences on the Epson are causing it, or maybe HDMI cables or recievers in the chain.

I am not an Apple user, but may grab one to test and compare in the future. I already have a Fire stick 4K and TiVo Stream 4K on other devices at home, I may do a comparison vs Shield Pro to give feedback for others with the Arcana. If anyone is interested, let me know. 



Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

jaredmwright said:


> For streaming and Dolby Vision and Atmos no real difference. The Tube is 32-bit and has less memory. The Pro has extra capability with external ports for storage and being able to host a Plex server and is better for gaming. For me, I would only buy the Pro since it is likely to get future updates that the Tube may not. Either way currently for streaming they are pretty much the same.
> 
> I also find it interesting that others have issues with the 5050ub and Shield Pro and Dolby Vision, it is rock solid and good for me. I wonder if other devices connected are causing issues for some, similar story with AppleTV and the poor experience. I have a 6050ub, maybe firmware differences on the Epson are causing it, or maybe HDMI cables or recievers in the chain.
> 
> I am not an Apple user, but may grab one to test and compare in the future. I already have a Fire stick 4K and TiVo Stream 4K on other devices at home, I may do a comparison vs Shield Pro to give feedback for others with the Arcana. If anyone is interested, let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


What does Dolby Vision do for us on our Epsons ? Are they DV capable ? I have $180 Amazon rewards money, so I'll grab the Pro. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> What does Dolby Vision do for us on our Epsons ? Are they DV capable ? I have $180 Amazon rewards money, so I'll grab the Pro.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk





biglen said:


> What does Dolby Vision do for us on our Epsons ? Are they DV capable ? I have $180 Amazon rewards money, so I'll grab the Pro.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


This explains it the best, and how to do it. Enjoy Dynamic DV content from LLDV source on any HDR10 display. | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI 

You use a HDFury device to get the player (Nvidia Shield/Roku/FireTV/BD player/Etc) to render Dolby Vision on the device and then send it via good old HDR10. It's called player led Low Latency Dolby Vision, or LLDV. 

Some of us 5050 owners are having issues getting things to work but when we do get it to work, it is awesome. Here's the thread I created to help us work through the issues Epson 5050 and HDFURY for Dolby Vision LLDV Dynamic Tone Mapping | AVS Forum


----------



## ToddB12

biglen said:


> What does Dolby Vision do for us on our Epsons ? Are they DV capable ? I have $180 Amazon rewards money, so I'll grab the Pro.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


If you get a Arcana you get a picture improvement with Dolby Vision and Roku and a few others.


----------



## Enchy

HDFury Integral 2, Vertex 2, Diva and Arcana will all get you LLDV conversion.


----------



## biglen

Enchy said:


> HDFury Integral 2, Vertex 2, Diva and Arcana will all get you LLDV conversion.


It's confusing because the price difference between them, is pretty significant. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

biglen said:


> It's confusing because the price difference between them, is pretty significant.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I'm with ya. I guess they do a bunch of other stuff too. I'm selling my Integral 2 since it's way more than I need and getting an Arcana which seems to be the barest bones least fiddly option. The Integral 2 doesn't pass the "can my partner use the theater without calling me" test.


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> It's confusing because the price difference between them, is pretty significant.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


They all can do quite a bit. The Diva even has a lag tester in it and can control LED light strips based on screen content. The Vertex 2, Maestro and Diva all give the most DV options but they’re the more advanced settings that you may not get into. Like changing the primaries. The Vertex 2 is the cheapest with all the options and the Arcana is the cheapest to get you to automatic set it and forget it functionality.


----------



## hms17B

audiowarrior said:


> View attachment 3205023
> 
> 
> here is another angle with image enhancement turned off.


Have you done panel alignment? It looks like it might need a little bit.


----------



## audiowarrior

hms17B said:


> Have you done panel alignment? It looks like it might need a little bit.


no, I just set the projectort down, did right and up lens shift, turned on image enhancement preset 4, and that's it. Natural color mode.

What will panel alignment accomplish exactly? It looks intimidating. Will it help sharpen up my picture more? Or does it have to do with color? 

Please give me an example, explain it to me like I'm 5 years old. Thank you


----------



## rekbones

audiowarrior said:


> no, I just set the projectort down, did right and up lens shift, turned on image enhancement preset 4, and that's it. Natural color mode.
> 
> What will panel alignment accomplish exactly? It looks intimidating. Will it help sharpen up my picture more? Or does it have to do with color?
> 
> Please give me an example, explain it to me like I'm 5 years old. Thank you


Panel alignment if off will definitely effect sharpness. Image is produced by 3 different panels one for red, green and blue so if they aren't in exact alignment you will get a blurry image. Alignment is not difficult just adjust each color on the different points of the screen. If you make it worse just disable it and it will revert to the same as when you got it. Just rough handling during shipping can throw it off so at least check it out too see if any of the points are off.


----------



## biglen

rekbones said:


> Panel alignment if off will definitely effect sharpness. Image is produced by 3 different panels one for red, green and blue so if they aren't in exact alignment you will get a blurry image. Alignment is not difficult just adjust each color on the different points of the screen. If you make it worse just disable it and it will revert to the same as when you got it. Just rough handling during shipping can throw it off so at least check it out too see if any of the points are off.


 If you're a believer in the 1.03 firmware making the e-shift do 3 times, instead of 2, then you'd want to leave panel alignment off. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## routlaw

Sorry I don’t see the technological logic in this, makes no sense to me. 



biglen said:


> If you're a believer in the 1.03 firmware making the e-shift do 3 times, instead of 2, then you'd want to leave panel alignment off.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

routlaw said:


> Sorry I don’t see the technological logic in this, makes no sense to me.


Don't shoot the messenger. I'm just telling you what others claim to see. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'll be surprised if you are happy with it, honestly. The CineGrey 3D had too much shimmer to me. Also, if you are putting this screen just a couple inches in front of those in walls then I *heavily *recommend against a microperf screen. You will get unfixable acoustic attenuation. Take a look at this report I did on 31 AT materials. But here are two images that will show you why you don't want an MP screen close to the speakers. The grey line is 1/48th smoothing and the blue is psychoacoustic (what you should hear). At 4" those peaks and nulls are too tight to fix and are 3db (aka they are perceptible). At 12" you are getting a pretty smooth decline in output which is for sure fixable with EQ. I've got these charts for a bunch of materials and at 4", woven screens perform much, much better.
> View attachment 3202749
> 
> View attachment 3202750


Forgive me for going slightly off topic.

Got the test materials in and liked the ST WAB a lot. A smidge dimmer than my current white vinyl screen, but I won't lose sleep over it. I don't find this projector is lacking in light output. I'm going to pop the screen out an extra 2" using some wood and cover the wall behind the screen in acoustic foam, as that should stop some of the attenuation from what I've read elsewhere.

You were right about the cinegray 3D. Had shimmer + I could see the perforations at my seating distance of 10'.

Thanks again for your report on the screens, it helped make my choice very easy and stopped me from buying a bad screen.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> Forgive me for going slightly off topic.
> 
> Got the test materials in and liked the ST WAB a lot. A smidge dimmer than my current white vinyl screen, but I won't lose sleep over it. I don't find this projector is lacking in light output. I'm going to pop the screen out an extra 2" using some wood and cover the wall behind the screen in acoustic foam, as that should stop some of the attenuation from what I've read elsewhere.
> 
> You were right about the cinegray 3D. Had shimmer + I could see the perforations at my seating distance of 10'.
> 
> Thanks again for your report on the screens, it helped make my choice very easy and stopped me from buying a bad screen.


Happy to be of some help. Moving the screen out and covering the wall in foam is a good idea. Both will help with peaks and nulls. The foam is really important so the sound energy that gets rejected by the screen doesn't just bounce off the wall and then back through the screen. I thought the WAB tested really well and is definitely a great price. Classic SilverTicket screen. Big value for a reasonable price.


----------



## hms17B

audiowarrior said:


> no, I just set the projectort down, did right and up lens shift, turned on image enhancement preset 4, and that's it. Natural color mode.
> 
> What will panel alignment accomplish exactly? It looks intimidating. Will it help sharpen up my picture more? Or does it have to do with color?
> 
> Please give me an example, explain it to me like I'm 5 years old. Thank you





audiowarrior said:


> no, I just set the projectort down, did right and up lens shift, turned on image enhancement preset 4, and that's it. Natural color mode.
> 
> What will panel alignment accomplish exactly? It looks intimidating. Will it help sharpen up my picture more? Or does it have to do with color?
> 
> Please give me an example, explain it to me like I'm 5 years old. Thank you


The LCD panels probably don't align perfectly on any of these, some units worse than others. With misalignment there'll be red and/or blue fringes in the image, particularly on white objects or lettering. That can negatively impact sharpness. You can easily see misalignment on the unit's menus. The alignment, at least the fine alignment, is digital and so can impact 1:1 pixel mapping, but I found that misalignment was more noticeable and annoying than anything undesirable that alignment might do to the image. So I found panel alignment to be well worth the effort.

The manual tells how to do it pretty well. You have to go into the menu and turn it on. Then you can do either red or blue, green isn't adjustable and doesn't need to be. It'll show a grid of white lines on a black background - you can also have it display only either red or blue on top of green, but I found it easier to do with both red and blue over green. There's an option to do whole panel - do that if all the lines are off by about the same, if misalignment is here and there then skip whole panel. Then it lets you do the four corners, then you can do intersections. When aligning red look for red fringes on the white lines and adjust up/down/right/left as needed to get the red to perfectly overlay the line. Same idea for blue. I found red to be off more and also easier to see any misalignment than blue. You don't have to save your alignment but it's a good idea. It will keep the last alignment until you either realign of turn alignment off.


----------



## hms17B

biglen said:


> Don't shoot the messenger. I'm just telling you what others claim to see.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I'm one who does not see it that way. Without alignment there was enough fringing (red mostly) that it really annoyed me. I had to do alignment in order to be satisfied with the image. I realize there are negatives to alignment, but I find them to be much less negative than the misalignment. Now if one's unit has very little misalignment or if one is far enough back from the screen that they don't notice it, then just leave it alone.


----------



## jaredmwright

I needed to align the panels on my 6050ub. I didn't realize it initially and thought the picture was as good as it could get. I was having some non uniform text clarity issues affecting the sharpness. After alignment everything is uniform and consistent and the picture looks better. I recommend doing it. 

I stood up close and adjusted each one manually so that all colors were aligned and showed white with no color bleeding. Honestly this should be part of initial setup, worst case you don't need to change much if anything.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

I just hooked up my Shield Pro. While watching sports on YouTube TV, the far away shots look really grainy, but the closeups look crystal clear. What settings are you guys using on the Shield Pro, for best results ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

jaredmwright said:


> I needed to align the panels on my 6050ub. I didn't realize it initially and thought the picture was as good as it could get. I was having some non inform text clarity issues affecting the sharpness. After alignment everything is uniform and consistent and the picture looks better. I recommend doing it.
> 
> I stood up close and adjusted each one manually so that all colors were aligned and showed white with no color bleeding. Honestly this should be part of initial setup, worst case you don't need to change much if anything.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I wonder if Epson checks panel mounting more carefully on the 6050s than on the 5050s. Maybe no one knows outside of Epson? My 5050 was several pixels off vertically on red which I adjusted with whole panel and then cleaned up what that didn't get by doing intersection.


----------



## Enchy




----------



## hms17B

Enchy said:


> View attachment 3205820


Might be hard doing it in cat-pixels. I think a cat-pixel is about 7 human-pixels.


----------



## audiowarrior

hms17B said:


> The LCD panels probably don't align perfectly on any of these, some units worse than others. With misalignment there'll be red and/or blue fringes in the image, particularly on white objects or lettering. That can negatively impact sharpness. You can easily see misalignment on the unit's menus. The alignment, at least the fine alignment, is digital and so can impact 1:1 pixel mapping, but I found that misalignment was more noticeable and annoying than anything undesirable that alignment might do to the image. So I found panel alignment to be well worth the effort.
> 
> The manual tells how to do it pretty well. You have to go into the menu and turn it on. Then you can do either red or blue, green isn't adjustable and doesn't need to be. It'll show a grid of white lines on a black background - you can also have it display only either red or blue on top of green, but I found it easier to do with both red and blue over green. There's an option to do whole panel - do that if all the lines are off by about the same, if misalignment is here and there then skip whole panel. Then it lets you do the four corners, then you can do intersections. When aligning red look for red fringes on the white lines and adjust up/down/right/left as needed to get the red to perfectly overlay the line. Same idea for blue. I found red to be off more and also easier to see any misalignment than blue. You don't have to save your alignment but it's a good idea. It will keep the last alignment until you either realign of turn alignment off.


Hey man,

I did the panel alignment (whole panel) last night. I stood up to the screen and even zoomed in with a phone camera to see closer.

Overall, no matter how much I try to get the red and blue lines flush with the white lines, I still see some bleeding on either side. Is this normal? The red and blue lines don't completely disappear behind the white lines..

p.s. Is corner alignment more accurate than whole panel alignment?

Thanks


----------



## audiowarrior

biglen said:


> If you're a believer in the 1.03 firmware making the e-shift do 3 times, instead of 2, then you'd want to leave panel alignment off.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Can you please explain why it should be left off? How does it effect eshift? Is there proof or just gossip on this?


----------



## rekbones

audiowarrior said:


> Can you please explain why it should be left off? How does it effect eshift? Is there proof or just gossip on this?


In theory doing panel alignment causes you to no longer have one to one pixel mapping so in effect it is a form of scaling that can degrade picture quality. In reality if the alignment is off not doing it is a whole lot worse and no one has really proved having it enabled effects any other traits of the projector.


----------



## hms17B

audiowarrior said:


> Hey man,
> 
> I did the panel alignment (whole panel) last night. I stood up to the screen and even zoomed in with a phone camera to see closer.
> 
> Overall, no matter how much I try to get the red and blue lines flush with the white lines, I still see some bleeding on either side. Is this normal? The red and blue lines don't completely disappear behind the white lines..
> 
> p.s. Is corner alignment more accurate than whole panel alignment?
> 
> Thanks


Whole panel is for when the entire screen is off pretty uniformly. I think corner may be for when the panel is skewed a bit in its mounting. Intersection is for cleaning up whatever whole and corner don't quite fix. Depending on how the panel is off, it may not be possible to get perfect alignment. I think that panel alignment shifts by whole pixels so if it's half a pixel off to the left then shifting a pixel to the right will put it off by half on the other side of the line.


----------



## hms17B

rekbones said:


> In theory doing panel alignment causes you to no longer have one to one pixel mapping so in effect it is a form of scaling that can degrade picture quality. In reality if the alignment is off not doing it is a whole lot worse and no one has really proved having it enabled effects any other traits of the projector.


Panel alignment ought to work something like digital keystone adjustment. It remaps pixels moving some up/down, left/right on the panels to compensate for the panels not lining up with each other in the light path. .If you move all of them up, say, then some will get pushed off the top and be lost and some on the bottom will be emptied. Likewise for right/left. With intersection you'll be doing that in a small section of the panel for each intersection. I'm sure they don't leave emptiness and have algorithms to smooth it out, but the end result is not exactly what is supposed to be in the image. If you do whole panel, one would think that it wouldn't affect 1:1 mapping except on the outer edges. If you do intersection it'll kind of stir the pot for mapping. The question is, Does it look better or worse after doing alignment? If better then it's probably worth doing the alignment. If worse, then don't do it. If you can't see any difference, then don't bother. Also note that what you can clearly see up close to the screen may be invisible at normal viewing distance. If you can't see any misalignment at your usual viewing distance then what's the point of doing it?

My 5050 was off enough that I did notice it in normal viewing. There were small red and blue fringes particularly on white portions of the image - red on one side, blue on the other. Kind of like rainbow effect on DLP but not so severe and the fringes aren't stacked together but opposite. It got to be rather annoying and I felt I had to do alignment.


----------



## AVRams

Hi, I have a couple of questions about the UB6050 (9400), sorry if it's been answered before:

1. Will this projector detect a HDR10 signal and switch automatically to the correct picture mode?
2. I think I heard about a firmware update which made the pixel shifting better, is that correct?
3. Firmware update is done by USB?

Asking for a friend who got a great deal on this projector.
Although it's a white projector, but he doesn't have a batcave so it doesn't really matter.


----------



## hms17B

AVRams said:


> Hi, I have a couple of questions about the UB6050 (9400), sorry if it's been answered before:
> 
> 1. Will this projector detect a HDR10 signal and switch automatically to the correct picture mode?
> 2. I think I heard about a firmware update which made the pixel shifting better, is that correct?
> 3. Firmware update is done by USB?
> 
> Asking for a friend who got a great deal on this projector.
> Although it's a white projector, but he doesn't have a batcave so it doesn't really matter.


I got mine new last spring and it had the latest firmware then - 1.04.


----------



## Enchy

Can anyone describe a dust blob to me? I noticed today a large ish circular lighter area when I hit the "blank" button on the remote. Isn't visible normally except during fades to black. It moves with lens shift. Is this a dust blob? It might be a weird light reflection in my room but I hunted for a bit and couldn't find anything.


----------



## fredworld

Enchy said:


> Can anyone describe a dust blob to me? I noticed today a large ish circular lighter area when I hit the "blank" button on the remote. Isn't visible normally except during fades to black. It moves with lens shift. Is this a dust blob? It might be a weird light reflection in my room but I hunted for a bit and couldn't find anything.


Seems like a dust blob to me. Try focusing down on it. As it gets smaller it will become clearer, at least mine do.


----------



## v1nh

hey there,

Looking at getting an Arcana for my 9400/6050, is the general consensus it's a worthy "upgrade" for LLDV/DV?


----------



## audiowarrior

Does anyone else experience a flashing/flickering effect during dark scenes? I’m using apple 4k tv and streaming movies and shows on various apps. What is causing this?

Edit: I think I fixed it with “high altitude mode”


----------



## jaredmwright

v1nh said:


> hey there,
> 
> Looking at getting an Arcana for my 9400/6050, is the general consensus it's a worthy "upgrade" for LLDV/DV?


Look at this thread Epson 5050 and HDFURY for Dolby Vision LLDV Dynamic Tone...

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## ProcyonOne

Maybe off topic, but what Epson needs to do is update the 4010's HDMI ports. If they did that the unit would be a home run for users who want a quality mid-priced unit. Especially since the 4010 came out in 2018, not sure how much longer the wait will be.....


----------



## stevesieber

Just got the Epson 5050UB in the home theater, new house, room size is 18x18. I used the Silver Ticket 120" Cinegray screen, looks awesome, the picture doesn't do it justice.


----------



## trailblazer

stevesieber said:


> Just got the Epson 5050UB in the home theater, new house, room size is 18x18. I used the Silver Ticket 120" Cinegray screen, looks awesome, the picture doesn't do it justice.


Looks Good!

Enjoy your new home theater.


----------



## caralmol

Enchy said:


> I think HDR can look really really good on this projector. Last night I started an episode of Midnight Mass (Dolby Vision) on my living room LED-LCD. Peak brightness 1000nits, 95% DCI P3, pretty great looking picture. It looked really, really good. Halfway through the episode I went downstairs and finished it in my theater on the Epson watching in Dolby Vision via the HDFury and I couldn't believe how great it looked after having just watching it on my TV that has better PQ for HDR. The black level details on the 5050 were stunning, the highlights in dark scenes were pronounced and intense. The dark colors of the show's palette were impressive. I was struck by how good a very dark (visually) show in HDR looked on the projector.
> 
> That being said, I do agree that SDR looks _better _on the Epson, but I don't really find HDR lacking. I'll always prefer a UHDBD over an HD BD.


Can you share your settings in the HDFury? Thanks.


----------



## Enchy

caralmol said:


> Can you share your settings in the HDFury? Thanks.


Built-in EDID for the Sony A1 (preset 8 on the Integral2). HDR slider set at 5. Digital Cinema. I ended up selling my Integral2 and will be picking up an Arcana here soon.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

After I return my vertex 2 my epson ub5050 still shows Dolby vision on applet. 4k. Do anybody knows how to to reset it to the previous form. I think my epson still has the settings from the vertex 2 that I returne.


----------



## PixelPusher15

vagos1103gr1 said:


> After I return my vertex 2 my epson ub5050 still shows Dolby vision on applet. 4k. Do anybody knows how to to reset it to the previous form. I think my epson still has the settings from the vertex 2 that I returne.


Restart your Apple TV. It isn't the Epson that's showing the DV. This just shows how the ATV4K holds onto stuff and doesn't fully resync just when something is changed in the path. Although, it may just be an app that's incorrectly showing DV even though the ATV isn't sending it.


----------



## vagos1103gr1

PixelPusher15 said:


> Restart your Apple TV. It isn't the Epson that's showing the DV. This just shows how the ATV4K holds onto stuff and doesn't fully resync just when something is changed in the path. Although, it may just be an app that's incorrectly showing DV even though the ATV isn't sending it.


I restart it so many times. Still shows Dolby vision on Netflix


----------



## PixelPusher15

vagos1103gr1 said:


> I restart it so many times. Still shows Dolby vision on Netflix


I believe there is a reset video settings option in the ATV settings. Try that


----------



## PannyMan87

9 month update:

1. Turning off auto iris in Cinema mode and moving iris manual setting to -9 made a huge difference in black levels. 

2. Finally got some 3D glasses. HOLY BALLS! Mad Max Fury Road in 3D is absolutely stunning. It's like 3D HDR! 

3. Projector is fantastic and I am loving it. Paired with a Silver ticket 128" WVS screen. Puts the old BenQ DLP I had to shame. It's just a whole different level of performance.


----------



## Enchy

PannyMan87 said:


> 9 month update:
> 
> 1. Turning off auto iris in Cinema mode and moving iris manual setting to -9 made a huge difference in black levels.
> 
> 2. Finally got some 3D glasses. HOLY BALLS! Mad Max Fury Road in 3D is absolutely stunning. It's like 3D HDR!
> 
> 3. Projector is fantastic and I am loving it. Paired with a Silver ticket 128" WVS screen. Puts the old BenQ DLP I had to shame. It's just a whole different level of performance.


If you can get your hands on a region free player, Terminator 2 3D is easily my favorite 3D movie I've watched.


----------



## Marc D Carra

Enchy said:


> If you can get your hands on a region free player, Terminator 2 3D is easily my favorite 3D movie I've watched.


Yes that disc is amazing! Theres a region free Japanese 3D release but it's a bit more expensive.


----------



## Viche

The Panasonic UB420 is on sale at Best Buy. How much better is it than a PS5 with Blu-Ray and 4k discs? Does the 820 have any features that are worth the extra money?


----------



## jaredmwright

Viche said:


> The Panasonic UB420 is on sale at Best Buy. How much better is it than a PS5 with Blu-Ray and 4k discs? Does the 820 have any features that are worth the extra money?


UB420 is very good but does not support Dolby Vision or HDR10+, I would get a player that supports those formats personally if I was replacing my UB420

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

jaredmwright said:


> UB420 is very good but does not support Dolby Vision or HDR10+, I would get a player that supports those formats personally if I was replacing my UB420
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I thought there was something else about the 820 like it had more settings for converting HDR to SDR or general tone mapping for projectors. 820 is on sale now as well, but it’s $250 more.


----------



## jaredmwright

Viche said:


> I thought there was something else about the 820 like it had more settings for converting HDR to SDR or general tone mapping for projectors. 820 is on sale now as well, but it’s $250 more.


As far as I understand they are equal in that regard and for my setup I don't benefit from HDR to SDR. I recently did a comparison and it did not deliver as good of a picture in my environment. I also use a HD Fury Arcana with my 6050ub and highly recommend when paired with sources to improve the picture quality and settings available for HDR.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

More specifically (my memory is a bit rusty here), but I seem to remember several conversations about techniques for getting HDR movies to look their best on the Epson projectors. Back in the 5040 threads, I believe they used to suggest using an HD linker to force the HDR source signal into SDR while maintaining the 2020 color space. I think there was even someone who figured out how to simulate Dolby HDR on either the Epson 5040 or 5050. Some of the techniques talked about used the Panasonic Blu-ray players tone mapping to make the picture better.

Anyway, I think some of these techniques were abandoned when the 5050 and it’s later firmware showed that it could handle HDR better, but it still sounds like the Panasonic tone mapping and HDR optimizer would be a benefit. (True?) If so, I could've sworn I remember reading that the Panasonic 820 had one more tone mapping setting that was more appropriate for Epson projectors when it came to lumen range. I just want to make sure that the 420 isn’t missing something that allows me to do any of these mapping techniques on the 5050.

Thanks for reading. 😉


----------



## Viche

jaredmwright said:


> As far as I understand they are equal in that regard and for my setup I don't benefit from HDR to SDR. I recently did a comparison and it did not deliver as good of a picture in my environment. I also use a HD Fury Arcana with my 6050ub and highly recommend when paired with sources to improve the picture quality and settings available for HDR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Oops, we cross posted. Do you own either of the Panasonics, and does anything I said in the post one above ring a bell? What does the arcana do, and does it replace the tone mapping and HDR optimizer in the Panasonic players?


----------



## jaredmwright

Viche said:


> Oops, we cross posted. Do you own either of the Panasonics, and does anything I said in the post one above ring a bell? What does the arcana do, and does it replace the tone mapping and HDR optimizer in the Panasonic players?


I own the 420 only. What your saying doesn't ring a bell with me in regards to other functionality between the two and the benefit. The tone mapping of the Panasonic is still valuable and preferred for the best picture even with the latest Epson firmware which is significantly better than the original it shipped with. There is an Epson/Arcana thread on these forums, I recommend you read it, there is a lot of valuable information in it. If you have Dolby Vision on any devices (Streaming/disc) I recommend making the investment it is absolutely another upgrade that really brings out the capability of these projectors for a very small investment that will apply to any future projector as well.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## audiowarrior

Could *High Lamp power mode* ruin black levels and weaken color?

Is it better to keep it at *medium* power for better contrast and color?


----------



## audiowarrior

What settings do you use for the *sharpest* picture possible? 

I’m using Image Enhancement preset 4. Is there anything else I can do?


----------



## Enchy

I don't use image enhancement at all because sharpness artifacts really bother me.


----------



## audiowarrior

What *HDR level *do you guys use for Natural color mode with medium lamp? 8 seems a bit dark. Will lowering it hurt my colors and contrast? (Because it helps brighten the image)


----------



## fredworld

audiowarrior said:


> What *HDR level *do you guys use for Natural color mode with medium lamp? 8 seems a bit dark. Will lowering it hurt my colors and contrast? (Because it helps brighten the image)


If you're not going to get a professional calibration then I don't recommend relying on the settings of others as there are far too many variables involved among room set up, light control, manufacturing variances, lamp performance, throw distance, personal taste, etc.
Purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc was one of the best investments I made at $40 for my display. The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm just about spot on with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs. Most of the patterns are for "evaluation only" while a few are specifically for adjusting user controls. It's those few that I return to for tweaking, mainly, Brightness, Contrast and the disc's Demo Material for Color/Tint, and for further fine tuning, judicious use of the HDR slider of the 5050 or in my Panasonic player. Some experimentation of the projector's GAMMA setting is necessary. It's an iterative process and requires patience. I settled on -2 in Digital Cinema mode then finalized my "calibration." Depending on source material I find that I might need only to move BRIGHTNESS or (if UHD) the HDR slider a notch or two, +or-, to achieve quite pleasing results.
The *Getting Started Guide* on the S&M website is worth taking the time to read through and once one gets the basic understanding for the actual adjusting it only takes about 10-15 minutes to "calibrate." _It doesn't replace a professional calibration_ but the highly satisfactory results I've gotten have discouraged me from pursuing one. My set-up is relatively conservative in screen size (94" wide 2.35 screen). Perhaps if my screen was as large as some on this forum I might feel otherwise about a pro-cal. I hope this helps.


----------



## Enchy

I second the Spears and Munsil disk but will add that if you watch a lot of 3D content, buy the HD disk as well as that includes patterns to adjust 3D picture modes.


----------



## audiowarrior

fredworld said:


> If you're not going to get a professional calibration then I don't recommend relying on the settings of others as there are far too many variables involved among room set up, light control, manufacturing variances, lamp performance, throw distance, personal taste, etc.





fredworld said:


> If you're not going to get a professional calibration then I don't recommend relying on the settings of others as there are far too many variables involved among room set up, light control, manufacturing variances, lamp performance, throw distance, personal taste, etc.
> Purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc was one of the best investments I made at $40 for my display. The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm just about spot on with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs. Most of the patterns are for "evaluation only" while a few are specifically for adjusting user controls. It's those few that I return to for tweaking, mainly, Brightness, Contrast and the disc's Demo Material for Color/Tint, and for further fine tuning, judicious use of the HDR slider of the 5050 or in my Panasonic player. Some experimentation of the projector's GAMMA setting is necessary. It's an iterative process and requires patience. I settled on -2 in Digital Cinema mode then finalized my "calibration." Depending on source material I find that I might need only to move BRIGHTNESS or (if UHD) the HDR slider a notch or two, +or-, to achieve quite pleasing results.
> The *Getting Started Guide* on the S&M website is worth taking the time to read through and once one gets the basic understanding for the actual adjusting it only takes about 10-15 minutes to "calibrate." _It doesn't replace a professional calibration_ but the highly satisfactory results I've gotten have discouraged me from pursuing one. My set-up is relatively conservative in screen size (94" wide 2.35 screen). Perhaps if my screen was as large as some on this forum I might feel otherwise about a pro-cal. I hope this helps.


Thanks for the detailed info! I’ll look into this disc!

By the way, the digital cinema color mode’s lack of lumens doesn’t bother you? I use Natural. Digital cinema seems so dark.


----------



## Enchy

I use Natural for games and SDR content and Digital Cinema for HDR movies and TV. Both are adjusted with the Spears and Munsil disk. I use Eco in Natural and Medium on Digital Cinema. Both with the manual iris clamped down to increase contrast. I don't have any issues with light output but my room is treated pretty well and my projector is as close to the screen as it can go.


----------



## Alaric

PannyMan87 said:


> 9 month update:
> 
> 1. Turning off auto iris in Cinema mode and moving iris manual setting to -9 made a huge difference in black levels.


You can use Auto AND stopper down the Iris - I do this on SDR stuff - HDR is trickier as it eats light, but i've got a good calibration using Dynamic, which has very strong black levels, contrast and light output, though needs high power and the colours are better with the filter mode, but it works great for Dolby Vision using a vertex. I also like the Apple 4K TV for getting 24p in Disney+ / Netflix


----------



## Alaric

Viche said:


> The Panasonic UB420 is on sale at Best Buy. How much better is it than a PS5 with Blu-Ray and 4k discs? Does the 820 have any features that are worth the extra money?


I've got a Panasonic 420 and it is a GREAT little player. Has the same chipset as the bigger brother 820, but smaller form factor, no screen, no 7.1 analogue outputs and no Dolby Vision - It's a big price hike for those extra features. It pairs great with the Epson using the optimiser for HDR.

I got a Sony X800m2 for Dolby Vision usage which i believe is better for this than the 820 though i've not personally compared them.- If you are going to use DV with a HD Fury device then the 820 does both. If you are just doing HDR then the 420 is a steal.


----------



## Alaric

Enchy said:


> I don't use image enhancement at all because sharpness artifacts really bother me.


I find 2 or 3 work well with a GOOD quality film. A poor quality film and i turn them off.


----------



## Alaric

audiowarrior said:


> What *HDR level *do you guys use for Natural color mode with medium lamp? 8 seems a bit dark. Will lowering it hurt my colors and contrast? (Because it helps brighten the image)


It will MASSIVELY vary on your set-up. I use 2 when i'm watching HDR with the colour filter (digital cinema) and a fully calibrated setting (My own, i've a colourimeter and spectrophotometer and HCFR software). I've a Dynamic setting that allows 4-5 and my latest dynamic mode with Dolby Vision I'm on 6-7

Velvet lined batcave, 120" acoustic transparent 1.0 screen


----------



## fredworld

audiowarrior said:


> Thanks for the detailed info! I’ll look into this disc!
> 
> By the way, the digital cinema color mode’s lack of lumens doesn’t bother you? I use Natural. Digital cinema seems so dark.


In answer to your question, no, Digital Cinema does not look too dark, as a matter of fact, on my 94" wide 2.35:1 1.0 gain white screen in a black painted ceiling/screen wall and dark gray completely light controlled room, Digital Cinema, -2 Gamma, 0 Iris with Auto Iris off and Medium lamp mode works best when adjusting contrast, brightness and color/tint using the Spears and Munsil UHD disc. Black level is very good with nice shadow details, outer space scenes have good contrast with star fields, color and flesh tones look natural. Outdoor sunlit scenes are stunning while naturally lit indoor scenes look like naturally lit indoor scenes. It's been, pretty much, set and forget. YMMV and probably will depending on screen choice, source material and room/projector setup.


----------



## vertexmonkey

If anyone is looking for a simple shelf for this projector that can hold its weight and size you might want to consider this. It is a Dolle Sumo 32x16" shelf and is rated for 55'lbs. I got mine at Lowes. You can get it in a 18" width and it also comes in black as well. Still working on cable management.


----------



## Relax2k

PannyMan87 said:


> 9 month update:
> 
> 1. Turning off auto iris in Cinema mode and moving iris manual setting to -9 made a huge difference in black levels.
> 
> 2. Finally got some 3D glasses. HOLY BALLS! Mad Max Fury Road in 3D is absolutely stunning. It's like 3D HDR!
> 
> 3. Projector is fantastic and I am loving it. Paired with a Silver ticket 128" WVS screen. Puts the old BenQ DLP I had to shame. It's just a whole different level of performance.


Hi @PannyMan87 what 3D glasses did you get? I'm looking to purchase some. Thanks!


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Relax2k said:


> Hi @PannyMan87 what 3D glasses did you get? I'm looking to purchase some. Thanks!


I have the cheap Samsungs, the Xpand and the HI-SHOCK and HI-SHOCK Deep Heaven is by far the best 3D glasses i have tried.. with the epson there is almost zero x-talk,and they produce an awesome bright image.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

Relax2k said:


> Hi @PannyMan87 what 3D glasses did you get? I'm looking to purchase some. Thanks!


I have Epson ELPGS03, expensive but really nice glasses.


----------



## Viche

jaredmwright said:


> I own the 420 only. What your saying doesn't ring a bell with me in regards to other functionality between the two and the benefit. The tone mapping of the Panasonic is still valuable and preferred for the best picture even with the latest Epson firmware which is significantly better than the original it shipped with. There is an Epson/Arcana thread on these forums, I recommend you read it, there is a lot of valuable information in it. If you have Dolby Vision on any devices (Streaming/disc) I recommend making the investment it is absolutely another upgrade that really brings out the capability of these projectors for a very small investment that will apply to any future projector as well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Thanks! It sounds like you are saying that the Arcana only works if you have DV on a device, but you have a 420 which doesn't support DV. Am I missing something here?



Alaric said:


> I've got a Panasonic 420 and it is a GREAT little player. Has the same chipset as the bigger brother 820, but smaller form factor, no screen, no 7.1 analogue outputs and no Dolby Vision - It's a big price hike for those extra features. It pairs great with the Epson using the optimiser for HDR.
> 
> I got a Sony X800m2 for Dolby Vision usage which i believe is better for this than the 820 though i've not personally compared them.- If you are going to use DV with a HD Fury device then the 820 does both. If you are just doing HDR then the 420 is a steal.


Are you familiar with the HD Fury/DV combo, or were you just referring to my reference to it? I ended up getting the 420, so I won't have DV support from disc.


----------



## PannyMan87

Relax2k said:


> Hi @PannyMan87 what 3D glasses did you get? I'm looking to purchase some. Thanks!


I have the Xpand glasses as recommended by many on this forum.


----------



## PannyMan87

Alaric said:


> You can use Auto AND stopper down the Iris - I do this on SDR stuff - HDR is trickier as it eats light, but i've got a good calibration using Dynamic, which has very strong black levels, contrast and light output, though needs high power and the colours are better with the filter mode, but it works great for Dolby Vision using a vertex. I also like the Apple 4K TV for getting 24p in Disney+ / Netflix


I will check that out again. When i first tried it out, it seemed to me that turning off Auto Iris produced better black levels. Certain scenes where the Iris opened up you could see the elevated black floor. I think my image preference would be better blacks vs better brightness. This is really splitting hairs, its ever so slightly different.


----------



## Pretorian

Just a quick update on my dust dot that showed up on my image. I sent it to Epson (DHL picked it up) on a Wednesday.
And the next Monday it was delivered back to me. 
I live in Sweden and it was sent to the UK.
Same projector with all my settings and no dust on image.
I thought this would take me months. Thank you Epson!


----------



## Alaric

Viche said:


> Are you familiar with the HD Fury/DV combo, or were you just referring to my reference to it? I ended up getting the 420, so I won't have DV support from disc.


Yup. I've the first Vertex with an Apple TV 4k and sony X800m2 for DV usage. The 420 i just use for HDR direct to the Epson








The Dreaming Cinema


I thought i'd finally start to document some of what I've done in home cinema as it's a bit of a crazy install, with lots of, mainly second hand, esoteric kit and done on a reasonable budget and with some odd constraints. It is however quite a show and very impressive! Kit Front Speakers - 2 x




sites.google.com


----------



## Alaric

PannyMan87 said:


> I will check that out again. When i first tried it out, it seemed to me that turning off Auto Iris produced better black levels. Certain scenes where the Iris opened up you could see the elevated black floor. I think my image preference would be better blacks vs better brightness. This is really splitting hairs, its ever so slightly different.


The manual Iris once set won't go above that level. Using the Auto on top will lower it in darker scenes so you will gain black level, not loose it. 
It should also be slightly quicker as it will only move between say 9-20 rather than 0-20

Down sides to the auto iris is the noise it makes (mostly minimal once a film is playing) and occasionally pulsing, though to be fair i only notice that in wide spaced credits, where you have white text on a black background


----------



## Enchy

I notice the pulsing in games so I usually keep it off when I'm gaming.


----------



## mon2479

Alaric said:


> It will MASSIVELY vary on your set-up. I use 2 when i'm watching HDR with the colour filter (digital cinema) and a fully calibrated setting (My own, i've a colourimeter and spectrophotometer and HCFR software). I've a Dynamic setting that allows 4-5 and my latest dynamic mode with Dolby Vision I'm on 6-7
> 
> Velvet lined batcave, 120" acoustic transparent 1.0 screen


What are your settings for dynamic mode with dolby vision? I've tried all of your settings and they look great. I tend to use your dynamic mode with my ARCANA for dolby vision.


----------



## PannyMan87

Has anyone watched Jurassic Park 3D? I'm seeing alot of crosstalk and can't get rid of it. Tried a few recommended settings with no success.


----------



## fredworld

Deleted duplicate post


----------



## fredworld

PannyMan87 said:


> Has anyone watched Jurassic Park 3D? I'm seeing alot of crosstalk and can't get rid of it. Tried a few recommended settings with no success.


I haven't seen Jurassic 3D. Are other 3D movies doing the same?
From the User Manual page 157:
• Adjust the 3D Depth setting on the Signal menu.
• Make sure you are within the 3D viewing range.
• To minimize 3D crosstalk, reduce the brightness of 3D images by selecting the following settings:
• Color Mode: 3D Cinema
• 3D Brightness: Low
• 3D Depth: 0
• HDMI Video Range: Normal
• Make sure your screen size matches the Diagonal Screen Size setting on the Signal menu.


----------



## Alaric

mon2479 said:


> What are your settings for dynamic mode with dolby vision? I've tried all of your settings and they look great. I tend to use your dynamic mode with my ARCANA for dolby vision.











The Dreaming Cinema


I thought i'd finally start to document some of what I've done in home cinema as it's a bit of a crazy install, with lots of, mainly second hand, esoteric kit and done on a reasonable budget and with some odd constraints. It is however quite a show and very impressive! Kit Front Speakers - 2 x




sites.google.com





Probably the one you are using then - It has very good black levels and is very bright and the Iris seems to go darker in this mode too.
I'm still experimenting with settings for my Vertex, but am running 2000 nits at the moment and the slider up at 6-7 and have tweaked the brightness up a little (54) and Contrast down (46) though you would probably need to adjust those at least for your set-up either way

once i'm happy i'm getting the best out of DV and Vertex combo i'll be moving on to calibrating with the German powerlight filter which i'll have to adjust for SDR, but should improve the colours more like the great but dark built in filter. This one is glass and shouldn't lose so much light, which is great for any HDR formats!


----------



## Alaric

PannyMan87 said:


> Has anyone watched Jurassic Park 3D? I'm seeing alot of crosstalk and can't get rid of it. Tried a few recommended settings with no success.


My BEST recommendation here is grab a Disney 3D disc. You may already have one even. The setup often has a Maximizer feature in the disc set-up menu. There is a Buzz and Woody which you use to adjust depth and cross talk to a minimum. Usually only a few quid on ebay and free movie 

The Epson is pretty good, but not perfect with cross talk. Most of the time i only notice it on the odd scene in an occasional film. Not all films are equal in this department

Jurassic Park 3D Blu-ray (Blu-ray 3D + Blu-ray + DVD) - the reviewer here does mention crosstalk, though it should be low!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> The Dreaming Cinema
> 
> 
> I thought i'd finally start to document some of what I've done in home cinema as it's a bit of a crazy install, with lots of, mainly second hand, esoteric kit and done on a reasonable budget and with some odd constraints. It is however quite a show and very impressive! Kit Front Speakers - 2 x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sites.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably the one you are using then - It has very good black levels and is very bright and the Iris seems to go darker in this mode too.
> I'm still experimenting with settings for my Vertex, but am running 2000 nits at the moment and the slider up at 6-7 and have tweaked the brightness up a little (54) and Contrast down (46) though you would probably need to adjust those at least for your set-up either way
> 
> once i'm happy i'm getting the best out of DV and Vertex combo i'll be moving on to calibrating with the German powerlight filter which i'll have to adjust for SDR, but should improve the colours more like the great but dark built in filter. This one is glass and shouldn't lose so much light, which is great for any HDR formats!


Interesting, with my HDR calibration my brightness is down to like 45 and contrast is at 60.

You happen to know if that German filter can be shipped stateside? I haven't even been able to find a place online to order it or see a price. Mind me asking what you're paying for it? (without VAT if you can)


----------



## RRF

Anyone get the Sleep Mode to work? 
I have it on, and set to 15 minutes, but the projector has never shut off.
Does not seem to function like my Sony or Panasonic's sleep mode...which will shut down if you do not use remote after a set period.


----------



## jaredmwright

RRF said:


> Anyone get the Sleep Mode to work?
> I have it on, and set to 15 minutes, but the projector has never shut off.
> Does not seem to function like my Sony or Panasonic's sleep mode...which will shut down if you do not use remote after a set period.


Sleep mode works just fine on my projector (thankfully might I add!) My kids are notorious for leaving it on.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> You happen to know if that German filter can be shipped stateside? I haven't even been able to find a place online to order it or see a price. Mind me asking what you're paying for it? (without VAT if you can)


It was from Kalibrate Limited for Home Cinema products, Calibration, DVD Players, 3D Glasses and more.... - i was chatting in a UK forum about the Laser Projectors and he said he had been sent a few - It is a nicely machined ring that's a snug fit over the Epson lens housing. Has a circlip and a pinky purple optical glass element. - I'd guess it would be in $120-200 range once over there. So neither cheap nor totally silly.
It's a small business and Ricky is pretty friendly so may be worth asking if interested.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> In answer to your question, no, Digital Cinema does not look too dark, as a matter of fact, on my 94" wide 2.35:1 1.0 gain white screen in a black painted ceiling/screen wall and dark gray completely light controlled room, Digital Cinema, -2 Gamma, 0 Iris with Auto Iris off and Medium lamp mode works best when adjusting contrast, brightness and color/tint using the Spears and Munsil UHD disc. Black level is very good with nice shadow details, outer space scenes have good contrast with star fields, color and flesh tones look natural. Outdoor sunlit scenes are stunning while naturally lit indoor scenes look like naturally lit indoor scenes. It's been, pretty much, set and forget. YMMV and probably will depending on screen choice, source material and room/projector setup.


I find Digital Cinema to be dark too. What is your Contrast set to ? My 5050 is only 14' from my screen, so I should have max brightness I would think. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> I find Digital Cinema to be dark too. What is your Contrast set to ? My 5050 is only 14' from my screen, so I should have max brightness I would think.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I find Digital Cinema gives the best color and image for cinema feel and reproduction. I agree it is dimmer than the other settings, but after using it I find it provides the best contrast and color ratio. I use the lamp mode on medium when using Digital Cinema and I find it works well. I project onto a 175" screen from about 18' away and would use the lamp on high but I don't like the fan so use medium. Proper calibration also helps bring out the best and I am constantly tweaking as the bulb life ages.


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> I find Digital Cinema to be dark too. What is your Contrast set to ? My 5050 is only 14' from my screen, so I should have max brightness I would think.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Contrast is at 21. My throw distance is also 14'. My lamp has 1000 hours now and I've not had to do any tweaking.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Contrast is at 21. My throw distance is also 14'. My lamp has 1000 hours now and I've not had to do any tweaking.


If I set my contrast to 21, I probably wouldn't see a thing on the screen. I'm at 60, and it still looks dim. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## audiowarrior

Can someone explain to me what lowering *HDR* from 8 to 6 is doing? Explain it to me like I’m 5 years old. 

Im assuming reducing the number increases brightness/light and decreases blacks?


----------



## jaredmwright

fredworld said:


> Contrast is at 21. My throw distance is also 14'. My lamp has 1000 hours now and I've not had to do any tweaking.


Sounds similar to mine and my brightness is around 54 with HDR on 2 and tht picture is great. I could see people asking for it to be brighter but it also wouldn't be as accurate. We get used to oversaturated TVs unfortunately in my experience.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

audiowarrior said:


> Can someone explain to me what lowering *HDR* from 8 to 6 is doing? Explain it to me like I’m 5 years old.
> 
> Im assuming reducing the number increases brightness/light and decreases blacks?


OK the HDR slider works to match the nits value of the movie, don’t know the exact values each represents but 1-2 is roughly 100nits, 4-5 is 600 nits, 7-8 is 1000 nits and 15-16 is 10000 nits.

If you know the nits value of movie you can then set to work with it but unlike the JVC which tells you this the Epson does so I found setting the slider to when the skin tone looked right seemed to work for me.


----------



## audiowarrior

Luminated67 said:


> OK the HDR slider works to match the nits value of the movie, don’t know the exact values each represents but 1-2 is roughly 100nits, 4-5 is 600 nits, 7-8 is 1000 nits and 15-16 is 10000 nits.
> 
> If you know the nits value of movie you can then set to work with it but unlike the JVC which tells you this the Epson does so I found setting the slider to when the skin tone looked right seemed to work for me.


Christ, my friends told me today my projector is too dark... I wish this HDR setting was automated and didn’t require manual adjustment with every movie and show..


----------



## Luminated67

audiowarrior said:


> Christ, my friends told me today my projector is too dark... I wish this HDR setting was automated and didn’t require manual adjustment with every movie and show..


The above is true if you don't have something like a Panasonic UB420 BluRay Player as it has static tonal mapping built in, if you don't have one I would highly recommend getting one as it takes a lot of the guesswork out of this, if you have one of them then setting the HDR slider around 6-8 seems to be all that's required.

It's one of the reason why JVC's dynamic tonal mapping on all model from NX series and up have it built in and why they are so good at handling HDR content.


----------



## Alaric

Luminated67 said:


> OK the HDR slider works to match the nits value of the movie, don’t know the exact values each represents but 1-2 is roughly 100nits, 4-5 is 600 nits, 7-8 is 1000 nits and 15-16 is 10000 nits.
> 
> If you know the nits value of movie you can then set to work with it but unlike the JVC which tells you this the Epson does so I found setting the slider to when the skin tone looked right seemed to work for me.


Not sure on the nits values there - Epson TW9400 HDR Projector Testing | Kalibrate Limited | Home Cinema products, Calibration, DVD Players, 3D Glasses | Audio Systems | Cinema Systems

Though i _AM_ wondering IF these values vary with set-up, as Calibration, Contrast/Brightness and modes may effect them. This may explain why Epson gave an arbitrary number rather than a more helpful nits value.

For MY set-up and testing. 
Using my Calibrated Accurate mode that is based off Digital Cinema i'm down at 2 for most films, using HDR and the Panasonic Ub420
Using my Dynamic mode i'm up at 4-6
And for my current DV setup using 2000nits profile i use 6-7

The higher value the darker the image goes, but more shadow detail is kept. The lower the value the brighter the overall image. It will vary by mode, movie and your set-up.

It is very much a balancing act between dark and light though, and trying to maximise shadow detail and highlights which is one of the pains with HDR and I can see why people like the ease of a set and forget SDR image. 

THIS is why Dynamic Tone Mapping, where ideally on a frame by frame basis the image adjusts to give a constant max brightness without losing the shadow detail is the holy grail of HDR. A good implementation on a reasonable device would be a BIG improvement, but we've yet to see much beyond Expensive JVCs, Lumagens and MadVR


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> If I set my contrast to 21, I probably wouldn't see a thing on the screen. I'm at 60, and it still looks dim.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


If mine were set to 60 my whites would be blown out. At 40 they are really crushed. But recall that my image in 16:9 mode is only 82" but even when I go scope-sized at 94" wide I don't need to make any changes. Having said that, last night when watching the Bond film Spectre in 4K I moved the HDR slider to 3. Usually it's at 4. That's with my Panasonic's 820's HDR Optimizer on.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Contrast is at 21. My throw distance is also 14'. My lamp has 1000 hours now and I've not had to do any tweaking.


I’m really stumped on how contrast set at 21 could be pleasurable, especially for HDR. Do you have some extreme custom gamma going? I’ve gone through multiple calibrations so far for HDR and it is nearly required to boost contrast to match the target EOTF. Oh, do you run the HDR slider really low around 1-2?


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> I’m really stumped on how contrast set at 21 could be pleasurable, especially for HDR. Do you have some extreme custom gamma going? I’ve gone through multiple calibrations so far for HDR and it is nearly required to boost contrast to match the target EOTF. Oh, do you run the HDR slider really low around 1-2?


Agreed. I had my 5050 professionally calibrated, and contrast is at 50-60 depending on the picture mode that was set up. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## Luminated67

Alaric said:


> Not sure on the nits values there - Epson TW9400 HDR Projector Testing | Kalibrate Limited | Home Cinema products, Calibration, DVD Players, 3D Glasses | Audio Systems | Cinema Systems
> 
> Though i _AM_ wondering IF these values vary with set-up, as Calibration, Contrast/Brightness and modes may effect them. This may explain why Epson gave an arbitrary number rather than a more helpful nits value.
> 
> For MY set-up and testing.
> Using my Calibrated Accurate mode that is based off Digital Cinema i'm down at 2 for most films, using HDR and the Panasonic Ub420
> Using my Dynamic mode i'm up at 4-6
> And for my current DV setup using 2000nits profile i use 6-7
> 
> The higher value the darker the image goes, but more shadow detail is kept. The lower the value the brighter the overall image. It will vary by mode, movie and your set-up.
> 
> It is very much a balancing act between dark and light though, and trying to maximise shadow detail and highlights which is one of the pains with HDR and I can see why people like the ease of a set and forget SDR image.
> 
> THIS is why Dynamic Tone Mapping, where ideally on a frame by frame basis the image adjusts to give a constant max brightness without losing the shadow detail is the holy grail of HDR. A good implementation on a reasonable device would be a BIG improvement, but we've yet to see much beyond Expensive JVCs, Lumagens and MadVR


Great find @Alaric I knew my own guesstimates wouldn't be right (didn't realise I would be that far out LOL) but was more to explain why the huge range was there with the HDR Slider. I have never needed to go beyond 8 on any movie I have watched so I get the feeling very few movies approach that high 10000nit value.

Just wished Epson would include the nit values both average and peak so we had a better gauge as to where to place the slider for the best results.

P.S. Can't say I have ever been as low as HDR slider setting 1 or 2 for that matter.


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## PixelPusher15

jaredmwright said:


> Sounds similar to mine and my brightness is around 54 with HDR on 2 and tht picture is great. I could see people asking for it to be brighter but it also wouldn't be as accurate. We get used to oversaturated TVs unfortunately in my experience.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Technically speaking, no HDR on this projector, or most displays is “accurate”. But needing more brightness is required to get closer. For HDR most of the image is not supposed to be brighter, its actually supposed to be the same as SDR. It’s just that there’s supposed to be a lot of room for speculate highlights. Here’s a couple curves for illustration








you can see that at about 60IRE the PQ curve is at 100 nits, most of what we will watch will be below that and at this level our displays should match or SDR peak white. So if you watch SDR at 50 nits then when you’re feeding it HDR 60IRE should be 50 nits.

I believe it was in the Projector Reviews review of the 5050 the calibrator found that the contrast control on the 5050 has a big impact at 60IRE. I don’t think this is by accident. If I leave my contrast slider at 50 then I get a giant dip between 50 and 70 IRE. I have to boost it to 60 and then go a bit further in the gamma controls to get it even higher.

Just a nit pick but oversaturated does not equal brighter.

For me personally, I can’t get away with Digital Cinema on my .8 gain 123” AT screen. With this fresh bulb I’m getting 56 nits in digital cinema on high lamp which is exactly what I watch SDR at. So without a stellar tone mapping system I’m going to clip ALL HDR highlights. I am going to try to calibrate a mode for the HDR to SDR tone mapping from the Panny but I’m guessing I’ll still like the brighter specular highlights from Natural.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> I’m really stumped on how contrast set at 21 could be pleasurable, especially for HDR. Do you have some extreme custom gamma going? I’ve gone through multiple calibrations so far for HDR and it is nearly required to boost contrast to match the target EOTF. Oh, do you run the HDR slider really low around 1-2?


-2 Gamma, 0 Iris with Auto Iris off and Medium lamp mode works best for me when adjusting contrast, brightness and color/tint using the Spears and Munsil UHD disc. HDR slider usually at 4. I think size does matter. 😉


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## biglen

fredworld said:


> -2 Gamma, 0 Iris with Auto Iris off and Medium lamp mode works best for me when adjusting contrast, brightness and color/tint using the Spears and Munsil UHD disc. HDR slider usually at 4. I think size does matter.


It's crazy how everyone is able to use different settings, and get great results, while others would have poor results with those settings. My image would be even more dark, if I moved the slider to 4, as 2 seems like the sweet spot for me. I am using MadVR set to tone map, so maybe that's why I'm getting such different results from other people's settings ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> It's crazy how everyone is able to use different settings, and get great results, while others would have poor results with those settings. My image would be even more dark, if I moved the slider to 4, as 2 seems like the sweet spot for me. I am using MadVR set to tone map, so maybe that's why I'm getting such different results from other people's settings ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Have you tried it without mad VR


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Have you tried it without mad VR


Yes, I just tried on my Shield Pro. Still dark looking to me. Natural and Bright Cinema look much better to my eyes. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## Relax2k

Hi Everyone, I'm looking to purchase a 4k Blu-ray player for my Epson 5050ub. I see some for $1000 and some for $400 or less. Any recommendation? Thank you!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Relax2k said:


> Hi Everyone, I'm looking to purchase a 4k Blu-ray player for my Epson 5050ub. I see some for $1000 and some for $400 or less. Any recommendation? Thank you!


The panasonic ub420 is a sure winner for $150 right now. If you think you’ll get into the LLDV hack stuff then the panny ub820 is good


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Yes, I just tried on my Shield Pro. Still dark looking to me. Natural and Bright Cinema look much better to my eyes.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Perhaps it's manufacturing variances and lamp performance. Judging from others and my own experience with warranty replacement units I think manufacturing variances in meeting a price point in production might have more to do with satisfactory settings than anything else. Regardless, the 5050/6050 projectors are still, IMHO, the best bang for the buck when considering image quality and features.
If you're happy with your image quality just enjoy it and don't worry about where the settings need to be.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Perhaps it's manufacturing variances and lamp performance. Judging from others and my own experience with warranty replacement units I think manufacturing variances in meeting a price point in production might have more to do with satisfactory settings than anything else. Regardless, the 5050/6050 projectors are still, IMHO, the best bang for the buck when considering image quality and features.
> If you're happy with your image quality just enjoy it and don't worry about where the settings need to be.


I'm going to get the Spears & Munsil disc, to make sure my professional calibration is still good. It's been about 2 years since it was done, so some settings may have drifted. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> I'm going to get the Spears & Munsil disc, to make sure my professional calibration is still good. It's been about 2 years since it was done, so some settings may have drifted.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


One of the benefits of this projector is the 10 Memories, so one can "calibrate" by eye to various Gamma and Iris settings for quick A/B/C comparisons.


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## Relax2k

Hi everyone, just starting to learn about HDR10, HDR10+, and Dolby Vision. I have a Epson 5050UB, Apple TV 4K and was watching Welcome to Earth on Disney+. For the movie info it shows 4KUltra HD - HDR10 and when I pulled up my projector info it showed an output of Refresh Rate 60Hz - 12 bit 4:2:2. I thought I needed Dolby Vision to get 12bit?? I attached some screenshot.


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## Orwellflash

Relax2k said:


> Hi Everyone, I'm looking to purchase a 4k Blu-ray player for my Epson 5050ub. I see some for $1000 and some for $400 or less. Any recommendation? Thank you!


I second Andy's recommendation. I have the ub420 and am very happy with it. Also, check out Video Games: Rent/Buy PS5, PS4, Xbox Series X, Xbox One, Nintendo Switch, Wii U, Wii, PS3, PS Vita, PS2, Xbox 360, 3DS, GC Games | GameFly
for UHD rentals (and game rentals if you are in to that). They have a 3 month special-- 2 disks out at a time for $11 a month. I have been using it for almost 3 months now. Good service. Their mail time is 3-4 days, and they have a service with the USPS to get notification when you have mailed a disk back, and they will give you the next item in your queue without waiting for the previous one to be received by them.


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## Orwellflash

Relax2k said:


> Hi everyone, just starting to learn about HDR10, HDR10+, and Dolby Vision. I have a Epson 5050UB, Apple TV 4K and was watching Welcome to Earth on Disney+. For the movie info it shows 4KUltra HD - HDR10 and when I pulled up my projector info it showed an output of Refresh Rate 60Hz - 12 bit 4:2:2. I thought I needed Dolby Vision to get 12bit?? I attached some screenshot.


Epson 5050 supports 4K HDR at 60 Hz with up to 4:4:4 (uncompressed) chroma subsampling at 8 bits, or 4:2:2 with 10- or 12-bit processing. With HDR streaming I always get 12-bit 4:2:2


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## Relax2k

Orwellflash said:


> Epson 5050 supports 4K HDR at 60 Hz with up to 4:4:4 (uncompressed) chroma subsampling at 8 bits, or 4:2:2 with 10- or 12-bit processing. With HDR streaming I always get 12-bit 4:2:2


So I saw a guy on youtube using the HDFury 4K Diva and was able to get Dolby vision on his Apple TV 4k and Epson projector. Is there going to be much difference in picture with the HDFury 4K Diva?


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## PixelPusher15

Relax2k said:


> So I saw a guy on youtube using the HDFury 4K Diva and was able to get Dolby vision on his Apple TV 4k and Epson projector. Is there going to be much difference in picture with the HDFury 4K Diva?











Epson 5050 and HDFURY for Dolby Vision LLDV Dynamic Tone...


I’m hoping to create a place where information pertaining to just the 5050 and getting LLDV to work can be found. I personally have had very mixed results and have not experienced the improved PQ that others have claimed to see. @Hawkmarket has also had the same challenges. Here’s what I’d like...




www.avsforum.com





This is the OG thread for LLDV and it’s a beast now but it does have all the info: Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


----------



## audiowarrior

1. Correct me if I'm wrong guys... but I don't notice any difference in picture quality at 4k 4:2:2 chroma vs 4k 4:2:0 chroma... Thus, I keep it at 4:2:0.

2. Is it safe to assume most of you guys toggle between HDR's levels per each film? I'm finding I have to go below 8 for some darker films... sometimes 4, sometimes 6. Is it normal to keep switching around? 

3. If I put gamma at 2, the screen does get brighter, but doesn't that kind of ruin the quality of the blacks and picture? Almost like lower contrast?


----------



## PixelPusher15

audiowarrior said:


> 1. Correct me if I'm wrong guys... but I don't notice any difference in picture quality at 4k 4:2:2 chroma vs 4k 4:2:0 chroma... Thus, I keep it at 4:2:0.
> 
> 2. Is it safe to assume most of you guys toggle between HDR's levels per each film? I'm finding I have to go below 8 for some darker films... sometimes 4, sometimes 6. Is it normal to keep switching around?
> 
> 3. If I put gamma at 2, the screen does get brighter, but doesn't that kind of ruin the quality of the blacks and picture? Almost like lower contrast?


1. Most content is encoded at 4:2:0 so there won't be much of a difference when your device is set at 4:2:2. If you do get content at 4:2:2 then I don't see why you'd set anything to less. Upscaling chroma isn't a big deal.

2. Yes, this is normal. 

3. Gamma in a dark dedicated room on the Epson is usually preferred at -2. In a room with ambient light then -1 or 0 would probably be preferred. I believe some of these 5050's vary but -2 is supposed to be around a 2.4 gamma and 0 is supposed to be 2.2. My 5050 measured at 2.23 out of the box at -2 which I wanted it higher and needed to calibrate. I'm actually playing around with BT1884 right now but that's a different story. Long story short, there's multiple standards and preferences. In the end, pick what you think looks best. A lot of people will prefer -1 or -2 since it can give more "pop". But also it can crush shadow detail if you aren't in a dedicated/dark space.


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## audiowarrior

Thanks for sharing man, interesting, I didn’t know about gamma


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## audiowarrior

*Unpopular opinion:*

I think I like 4K SDR better than 4K HDR...

I get a lot more pop (brightness) and colors and textures look more even and less saturated. Best part is, no more adjusting HDR levels for each film.... No more darkness...

Am I a psychopath?


----------



## Enchy

audiowarrior said:


> *Unpopular opinion:*
> 
> I think I like 4K SDR better than 4K HDR...
> 
> I get a lot more pop (brightness) and colors and textures look more even and less saturated. Best part is, no more adjusting HDR levels for each film.... No more darkness...
> 
> Am I a psychopath?


Not all HDR is created equal. Some content is bad, other content is good.

Bad HDR will look worse than SDR, but good HDR will look better. I think with this projector, a lot depends on the room. If I wasn't in a dedicated space and had lots of reflections in the room, I probably wouldn't see the benefits of HDR.

If you have a UHDBD player, get yourself the LotR Trilogy, Blade Runner 2049, Alien 1, Jaws, Into the Spiderverse. Those are the best examples of HDR on UHDBD I've watched.


----------



## audiowarrior

Great points man, thank you!

I was talking to a buddy today (who has a $200k dedicated theater) and he shared the same sentiments as you. In fact, he doesn’t even use his projector’s HDR, he uses a lumagen to ensure better brightness.


----------



## Orwellflash

Relax2k said:


> So I saw a guy on youtube using the HDFury 4K Diva and was able to get Dolby vision on his Apple TV 4k and Epson projector. Is there going to be much difference in picture with the HDFury 4K Diva?


I'm a spectator on HDFury, many ins and outs on that. Checkout Pixel Pusher 15's new thread on that above.


----------



## Viche

audiowarrior said:


> *Unpopular opinion:*
> 
> I think I like 4K SDR better than 4K HDR...
> 
> I get a lot more pop (brightness) and colors and textures look more even and less saturated. Best part is, no more adjusting HDR levels for each film.... No more darkness...
> 
> Am I a psychopath?


So I’ve been buying 4K discs in preparation of getting a 5050. If a particular movie performs better in SDR, can I watch the 4K disc in that mode, or is there something about the encoding on the 4K disc that prevents this?


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> So I’ve been buying 4K discs in preparation of getting a 5050. If a particular movie performs better in SDR, can I watch the 4K disc in that mode, or is there something about the encoding on the 4K disc that prevents this?


I don't think you can force SDR on a 4K disk but all of the disks are combo packs so you could just watch the HD disk.


----------



## fredworld

Viche said:


> So I’ve been buying 4K discs in preparation of getting a 5050. If a particular movie performs better in SDR, can I watch the 4K disc in that mode, or is there something about the encoding on the 4K disc that prevents this?





Enchy said:


> I don't think you can force SDR on a 4K disk but all of the disks are combo packs so you could just watch the HD disk.


*See these search results* for SDR 4k with the 5050. Some seem to prefer it, but I didn't see the benefit in my comparisons.


----------



## Enchy

One of the biggest benefits of the 4K disks is the Atmos track. Most HD disks are 5.1/7.1


----------



## Enchy

Enchy said:


> Can anyone describe a dust blob to me? I noticed today a large ish circular lighter area when I hit the "blank" button on the remote. Isn't visible normally except during fades to black. It moves with lens shift. Is this a dust blob? It might be a weird light reflection in my room but I hunted for a bit and couldn't find anything.


This turned out to be a smudge on the lens. I cleaned it with a Zeiss lens wipe yesterday and the spot went away. Yay!


----------



## Viche

fredworld said:


> *See these search results* for SDR 4k with the 5050. Some seem to prefer it, but I didn't see the benefit in my comparisons.


So it sounds like you can convert HDR 2020 to SDR 2020 on the Panasonic UB 420, and people seem to like the results. In reality that just sounds like the Panasonic is handling the mapping but you’re still using the HDR data from the disk. Is that what you mean by SDR 4K?


----------



## fredworld

Viche said:


> So it sounds like you can convert HDR 2020 to SDR 2020 on the Panasonic UB 420, and people seem to like the results. In reality that just sounds like the Panasonic is handling the mapping but you’re still using the HDR data from the disk. Is that what you mean by SDR 4K?


Yes. I thought that was what was meant by liking SDR better than HDR...via the 5050, that is. Apologies for my dimness.😕


----------



## Viche

fredworld said:


> Yes. I thought that was what was meant by liking SDR better than HDR...via the 5050, that is. Apologies for my dimness.😕


No worries. I think people sometimes literally mean using an SDR source instead of HDR (standard bluray vs 4k), but I figured there was some method within the projector or by using a device to "turn HDR off" somehow. Maybe it's as simple as what you are suggesting through the panasonic player. I'm just wondering if I'm doing the wrong thing by buying only 4K blurays lately.


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> I'm just wondering if I'm doing the wrong thing by buying only 4K blurays lately.


Definitely not. Worst case you still have the HD blu rays. I have about 40 or so 4K blu rays and only 1 or 2 of them look worse than the HD version.


----------



## fredworld

Viche said:


> I'm just wondering if I'm doing the wrong thing by buying only 4K blurays lately.





Enchy said:


> Definitely not. Worst case you still have the HD blu rays. I have about 40 or so 4K blu rays and only 1 or 2 of them look worse than the HD version.


Agreed. I've about a hundred or so 4K titles, many were replacements for their SD BD counterparts. The 5050, in my estimation, requires a separate calibration for HDR, it's very slight from the SDR settings and sometimes the HDR slider needs adjustment on a title by title basis, but as image scale increases the differences favor HDR. On my 50" Samsung it's insignificant. On my 94" wide Studiotek 100 it's appreciable.


----------



## audiowarrior

Viche said:


> So I’ve been buying 4K discs in preparation of getting a 5050. If a particular movie performs better in SDR, can I watch the 4K disc in that mode, or is there something about the encoding on the 4K disc that prevents this?


I’m not sure, I just use apple 4K tv and I forced 4K SDR on all content via the apple settings page. I have it set to 4K sdr and 4:4:4 chroma.


----------



## audiowarrior

*New set of questions for 5050 owners *

1. if you own a *gray* screen, is it true the color pops *less* compared to a white screen?

2. if you own a *gray* screen, is it true the light output is *less* pop when compared to a white screen? I’m assuming gray screens dampen light?

3. if you own a *gray* screen, are the *blacks* really that much better when compared to a white screen?

4. Epson Super White doesn’t exist on the 5050. How do I combat *white clipping*? When I use high power mode on natural color mode, the whites are *over exposed*. How can I combat over exposed whites without losing light output?


----------



## WynsWrld98

5040 owner not into gaming, 120" 16:9 image CIH setup larger with 2.4:1 content, watch 3D and 4K HDR content. What would I gain with a 5050 over my 5040?


----------



## PixelPusher15

audiowarrior said:


> *New set of questions for 5050 owners *
> 
> 1. if you own a *gray* screen, is it true the color pops *less* compared to a white screen?
> 
> 2. if you own a *gray* screen, is it true the light output is *less* pop when compared to a white screen? I’m assuming gray screens dampen light?
> 
> 3. if you own a *gray* screen, are the *blacks* really that much better when compared to a white screen?
> 
> 4. Epson Super White doesn’t exist on the 5050. How do I combat *white clipping*? When I use high power mode on natural color mode, the whites are *over exposed*. How can I combat over exposed whites without losing light output?



No, the color on a true neutral grey screen does not pop less. IMO this is a complete myth and I think those that repeat the myth are simply confusing it with overall brightness. A grey screen will reduce the overall light output, thus reducing color brightness as well. More on this later.
Matte grey screens do reduce light output. Most do it more than their gain ratings too. It is very common for 0.9 to 1.0 gain grey screens to actually measure around 0.7. To acheive a 1.0 gain grey screen there needs to be a lot of additives to the screen to reflect light back at the viewer. These additives will add unwanted artifacts as well like hotspoting and shimmer
Blacks _can_ be better with a grey screen but don't forget that your whites will also be dimmer. The projector's native contrast abilities are unchanged.
You need to adjust the contrast setting and possibly create a custom gamma (this will be hard without equipment). Are you talking about clipping on HDR content? If you are then you can try adjusting the HDR slider higher. This will make the image dimmer but preserve highlights. I did an HDR calibration and it made a massive difference over the default HDR handling. I recommend getting a calibration if you are going to view HDR as HDR and not convert it with a Panasonic player. Btw, adjusting the contrast setting won't really help preserve highlights for HDR. It doesn't work the same for HDR signals as it does for SDR. HDR clipping is related to your gamma settings which the HDR slider, gamma settings, and greyscale will have a large impact.
More details on a grey screen. If you had a room completely covered in velvet and had two screens, one a .5 gain grey screen, and the other a 1.0 white screen. Then you had the same projector shooting 2000 lumens on the .5 gain screen and 1000 lumens on the white screen. These two screens would appear _identical. _(This is of course assuming they both have the same half gain and are color neutral). Now where I believe people mess up when comparing a white and grey screen is that they hold a white sample up and a grey sample up and because they are human they immediately go "wow, that white screen 'pops' so much more!"...well duh. You can't compare them like this. Each material needs to put out the target luminance, ~16fL for SDR. This can only me done by changing the projector's settings. Making these side-by-side comparisons impossible without having 2 projectors or a complicated ND filter setup. The reason to get a grey screen is that you don't have great light control _including reflected light off walls, even dark-colored walls. _The grey screen will cut the light of not just the projector but also the ambient light in the room and this is where the contrast "increase" comes from. Grey screens can help preserve contrast but they don't improve the projector's native contrast.

What I did personally is I went to a white 0.8 gain AT screen from a .5 gain grey AT screen. My black levels are actually better on the white screen because I have more lumens to work with which allowed me to turn down the manual iris and actually increase my projector's native contrast. The screen still reflects more unwanted light but overall it's a better image. Part of the plan is to treat more of my room with velvet flock so I get an even better image.

Ok, enough text wall.


----------



## PaulF757

Need some help. I've been streaming 4k movies on my Kodi, and lately the movies aren't filling the entire screen, is there anything Im doing wrong or is it the stream? The higher file movies are the ones with smaller picture size. 

Thanks.


----------



## audiowarrior

PixelPusher15 said:


> No, the color on a true neutral grey screen does not pop less. IMO this is a complete myth and I think those that repeat the myth are simply confusing it with overall brightness. A grey screen will reduce the overall light output, thus reducing color brightness as well. More on this later.
> Matte grey screens do reduce light output. Most do it more than their gain ratings too. It is very common for 0.9 to 1.0 gain grey screens to actually measure around 0.7. To acheive a 1.0 gain grey screen there needs to be a lot of additives to the screen to reflect light back at the viewer. These additives will add unwanted artifacts as well like hotspoting and shimmer
> Blacks _can_ be better with a grey screen but don't forget that your whites will also be dimmer. The projector's native contrast abilities are unchanged.
> You need to adjust the contrast setting and possibly create a custom gamma (this will be hard without equipment). Are you talking about clipping on HDR content? If you are then you can try adjusting the HDR slider higher. This will make the image dimmer but preserve highlights. I did an HDR calibration and it made a massive difference over the default HDR handling. I recommend getting a calibration if you are going to view HDR as HDR and not convert it with a Panasonic player. Btw, adjusting the contrast setting won't really help preserve highlights for HDR. It doesn't work the same for HDR signals as it does for SDR. HDR clipping is related to your gamma settings which the HDR slider, gamma settings, and greyscale will have a large impact.
> More details on a grey screen. If you had a room completely covered in velvet and had two screens, one a .5 gain grey screen, and the other a 1.0 white screen. Then you had the same projector shooting 2000 lumens on the .5 gain screen and 1000 lumens on the white screen. These two screens would appear _identical. _(This is of course assuming they both have the same half gain and are color neutral). Now where I believe people mess up when comparing a white and grey screen is that they hold a white sample up and a grey sample up and because they are human they immediately go "wow, that white screen 'pops' so much more!"...well duh. You can't compare them like this. Each material needs to put out the target luminance, ~16fL for SDR. This can only me done by changing the projector's settings. Making these side-by-side comparisons impossible without having 2 projectors or a complicated ND filter setup. The reason to get a grey screen is that you don't have great light control _including reflected light off walls, even dark-colored walls. _The grey screen will cut the light of not just the projector but also the ambient light in the room and this is where the contrast "increase" comes from. Grey screens can help preserve contrast but they don't improve the projector's native contrast.
> 
> What I did personally is I went to a white 0.8 gain AT screen from a .5 gain grey AT screen. My black levels are actually better on the white screen because I have more lumens to work with which allowed me to turn down the manual iris and actually increase my projector's native contrast. The screen still reflects more unwanted light but overall it's a better image. Part of the plan is to treat more of my room with velvet flock so I get an even better image.
> 
> Ok, enough text wall.


I love your walls of text! Thank you for the details.

I am streaming exclusively in *SDR 4K* by the way.

do you think it’s better to turn down the manual iris or contrast in my case? (With respect to white clipping)

For the record, I’m defining white clipping as too much light reflecting off the screen in bright scenes. It’s like staring into the sun. And it’s hot and overexposed. For example, the day time shots in Ford v. Ferrari reflect so much light your eyes hurt. The only way I’ve combatted this so far is playing thins in *medium power* mode. But as a result, I lose color highlights and better skin tones. Wish I could keep the highlights and just reduce overexposure. I’m wondering if a gray screen can also help... hmmm


----------



## Enchy

audiowarrior said:


> I love your walls of text! Thank you for the details.
> 
> I am streaming exclusively in *SDR 4K* by the way.
> 
> do you think it’s better to turn down the manual iris or contrast in my case? (With respect to white clipping)
> 
> For the record, I’m defining white clipping as too much light reflecting off the screen in bright scenes. It’s like staring into the sun. And it’s hot and overexposed. For example, the day time shots in Ford v. Ferrari reflect so much light your eyes hurt. The only way I’ve combatted this so far is playing thins in *medium power* mode. But as a result, I lose color highlights and better skin tones. Wish I could keep the highlights and just reduce overexposure. I’m wondering if a gray screen can also help... hmmm


Lowering the manual iris will reduce the overall light output and increase contrast.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> No, the color on a true neutral grey screen does not pop less. IMO this is a complete myth and I think those that repeat the myth are simply confusing it with overall brightness. A grey screen will reduce the overall light output, thus reducing color brightness as well. More on this later.
> Matte grey screens do reduce light output. Most do it more than their gain ratings too. It is very common for 0.9 to 1.0 gain grey screens to actually measure around 0.7. To acheive a 1.0 gain grey screen there needs to be a lot of additives to the screen to reflect light back at the viewer. These additives will add unwanted artifacts as well like hotspoting and shimmer
> Blacks _can_ be better with a grey screen but don't forget that your whites will also be dimmer. The projector's native contrast abilities are unchanged.
> You need to adjust the contrast setting and possibly create a custom gamma (this will be hard without equipment). Are you talking about clipping on HDR content? If you are then you can try adjusting the HDR slider higher. This will make the image dimmer but preserve highlights. I did an HDR calibration and it made a massive difference over the default HDR handling. I recommend getting a calibration if you are going to view HDR as HDR and not convert it with a Panasonic player. Btw, adjusting the contrast setting won't really help preserve highlights for HDR. It doesn't work the same for HDR signals as it does for SDR. HDR clipping is related to your gamma settings which the HDR slider, gamma settings, and greyscale will have a large impact.
> More details on a grey screen. If you had a room completely covered in velvet and had two screens, one a .5 gain grey screen, and the other a 1.0 white screen. Then you had the same projector shooting 2000 lumens on the .5 gain screen and 1000 lumens on the white screen. These two screens would appear _identical. _(This is of course assuming they both have the same half gain and are color neutral). Now where I believe people mess up when comparing a white and grey screen is that they hold a white sample up and a grey sample up and because they are human they immediately go "wow, that white screen 'pops' so much more!"...well duh. You can't compare them like this. Each material needs to put out the target luminance, ~16fL for SDR. This can only me done by changing the projector's settings. Making these side-by-side comparisons impossible without having 2 projectors or a complicated ND filter setup. The reason to get a grey screen is that you don't have great light control _including reflected light off walls, even dark-colored walls. _The grey screen will cut the light of not just the projector but also the ambient light in the room and this is where the contrast "increase" comes from. Grey screens can help preserve contrast but they don't improve the projector's native contrast.
> 
> What I did personally is I went to a white 0.8 gain AT screen from a .5 gain grey AT screen. My black levels are actually better on the white screen because I have more lumens to work with which allowed me to turn down the manual iris and actually increase my projector's native contrast. The screen still reflects more unwanted light but overall it's a better image. Part of the plan is to treat more of my room with velvet flock so I get an even better image.
> 
> Ok, enough text wall.


Would all that info also apply to my Black Flame Interstellar painted screen, which is grey in color? My room is a bat cave, and the screen is surrounded in black velvet. I'm wondering if I'd get an even better picture, if I switched to a white screen?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## wnydel2

Pretty much sold on getting the 6050 after much debate. This will be my first projector. How are the results with the shift (I think that is what it’s called) if the projector is off center. I basically have two places I can mount it. Centered with a 10ft throw or 1.5 - 2 feet off center, with a 12 foot throw.


----------



## Enchy

wnydel2 said:


> Pretty much sold on getting the 6050 after much debate. This will be my first projector. How are the results with the shift (I think that is what it’s called) if the projector is off center. I basically have two places I can mount it. Centered with a 10ft throw or 1.5 - 2 feet off center, with a 12 foot throw.


Mine is about 2' off center and I have no issues with it. Very easy to setup.


----------



## wnydel2

Enchy said:


> Mine is about 2' off center and I have no issues with it. Very easy to setup.


is over all set up easy? Being new to projectors calibration and the tech talk scares me, I’m sure I’ll eventually understand everything, but I hope the initial set up and out of the box settings are good enough to get by with until I take the plunge and start trying to calibrate.


----------



## Enchy

wnydel2 said:


> is over all set up easy? Being new to projectors calibration and the tech talk scares me, I’m sure I’ll eventually understand everything, but I hope the initial set up and out of the box settings are good enough to get by with until I take the plunge and start trying to calibrate.


Yeah, the 5050 was my first projector and it was very simple. Make sure to read the manual. The people in this thread are very helpful too if you have any questions.

Out of box is really great for the most part. My HDR settings are just a few ticks off default. SDR was a little bit off, but a lot depends on your room, screen, throw distance, etc.

Calibration is super simple. If you have a 4k blu ray player you can buy the Spears and Munsil calibration disk which includes a very easy to follow guide. If you don't have a 4K player but you do have an Xbox One or Series S|X it has a built in calibration tool you can use as well, but it's less robust. Worst case there's test patterns on youtube you can use, or even the THX tune-up app.


----------



## wnydel2

Enchy said:


> Yeah, the 5050 was my first projector and it was very simple. Make sure to read the manual. The people in this thread are very helpful too if you have any questions.
> 
> Out of box is really great for the most part. My HDR settings are just a few ticks off default. SDR was a little bit off, but a lot depends on your room, screen, throw distance, etc.
> 
> Calibration is super simple. If you have a 4k blu ray player you can buy the Spears and Munsil calibration disk which includes a very easy to follow guide. If you don't have a 4K player but you do have an Xbox One or Series S|X it has a built in calibration tool you can use as well, but it's less robust. Worst case there's test patterns on youtube you can use, or even the THX tune-up app.


thanks so much. And what you said about calibration sounds much easier than I was thinking. I do have a 4K player, so I’ll get that disk.


----------



## Enchy

wnydel2 said:


> thanks so much. And what you said about calibration sounds much easier than I was thinking. I do have a 4K player, so I’ll get that disk.


It's the best $40 you can spend to make your picture better. All you really do is look at some test patterns and adjust brightness/contrast following their instructions.


----------



## sddawson

Alaric said:


> Not sure on the nits values there - Epson TW9400 HDR Projector Testing | Kalibrate Limited | Home Cinema products, Calibration, DVD Players, 3D Glasses | Audio Systems | Cinema Systems
> 
> Though i _AM_ wondering IF these values vary with set-up, as Calibration, Contrast/Brightness and modes may effect them. This may explain why Epson gave an arbitrary number rather than a more helpful nits value.


Whoa, HDR slider at 1 for 1200 nits? I’ve never seen anyone run with the slider that low. Doesn’t seem right to me. I thought the common wisdom was a mid-slider value for around 1,000 nits. 1 seriously blows out highlights for me.


----------



## jaredmwright

sddawson said:


> Whoa, HDR slider at 1 for 1200 nits? I’ve never seen anyone run with the slider that low. Doesn’t seem right to me. I thought the common wisdom was a mid-slider value for around 1,000 nits. 1 seriously blows out highlights for me.


Depends on many factors such as screen size. In my case 175" requires lower HDR slider in 1 or 2 range.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

Enchy said:


> Calibration is super simple. If you have a 4k blu ray player you can buy the Spears and Munsil calibration disk which includes a very easy to follow guide. If you don't have a 4K player but you do have an Xbox One or Series S|X it has a built in calibration tool you can use as well, but it's less robust. Worst case there's test patterns on youtube you can use, or even the THX tune-up app.


That's NOT calibration....well, not unless you are using the disc in conjunction with a Meter and Software.

At best it is tweaking with some form of reference patterns. For SDR they are really useful for setting brightness and contrast, and you can set Colour and Tint better if you have gels.

However setting the Greyscale, RGB Cuts/Gains and any CMS stuff really needs a meter

Have a look at GREYSCALE & COLOUR CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES (OLD VERSION) - It's old and SDR based, but very good at the basic principles involved!


----------



## WynsWrld98

5040 owner not into gaming, 120" 16:9 image CIH setup larger with 2.4:1 content, watch 3D and 4K HDR content. What would I gain with a 5050 over my 5040?


----------



## Bushum

wnydel2 said:


> Pretty much sold on getting the 6050 after much debate. This will be my first projector. How are the results with the shift (I think that is what it’s called) if the projector is off center. I basically have two places I can mount it. Centered with a 10ft throw or 1.5 - 2 feet off center, with a 12 foot throw.


The lens shift is amazing. I was actually shocked by how much the screen would move from a static projector and not affect the picture. With a 10' throw you will be limited to a 102" screen with max zoom. I would definitely do the off center mount which will get a more reasonable (IMO of course) 123" screen.








Epson Pro Cinema 6050UB Projection Calculator - Throw Distance and Screen Size


Find screen size and throw distance for the Epson Pro Cinema 6050UB projector.



www.projectorcentral.com


----------



## fredworld

Bushum said:


> The lens shift is amazing. I was actually shocked by how much the screen would move from a static projector and not affect the picture. With a 10' throw you will be limited to a 102" screen with max zoom. I would definitely do the off center mount which will get a more reasonable (IMO of course) 123" screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Pro Cinema 6050UB Projection Calculator - Throw Distance and Screen Size
> 
> 
> Find screen size and throw distance for the Epson Pro Cinema 6050UB projector.
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorcentral.com


Hold off on a screen and maybe try the projector at both positions. Use a sheet for a screen to decide what size you're comfortable with. The projector has a good range to accommodate various image sizes at your specified throw distances. Largest is not necessarily the best image. Choosing a brand/model of screen would then become the next step.


----------



## sddawson

jaredmwright said:


> Depends on many factors such as screen size. In my case 175" requires lower HDR slider in 1 or 2 range.


I’m no expert on HDR. I would have thought, though, that slider positions equated with certain nit levels. Sure, you might need to move the slider to get a brighter picture, but then you will be clipping highlights and not showing a 1,000 nit title as it’s intended. Of course, you’re forced to do that with a large screen (I have a 135” 16:9 screen and run at about position 5). The article quoted said position 1 equated to 1200 nits (without saying much about the setup, although that is probably elsewhere), which seems to go against common wisdom with these projectors. But don’t quote me!


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## Marc D Carra

Bushum said:


> The lens shift is amazing. I was actually shocked by how much the screen would move from a static projector and not affect the picture.


Those were my thoughts exactly when I first set it up. I don't know what kind of magical fun house of mirrors there are in those lenses to be able to project an image so far off to where you have the projector mounted. Its really amazing!


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> Would all that info also apply to my Black Flame Interstellar painted screen, which is grey in color? My room is a bat cave, and the screen is surrounded in black velvet. I'm wondering if I'd get an even better picture, if I switched to a white screen?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Yeah, same should apply. 

Based on what I know of your room, part velvet/part super flat paint, I'd look into using a white screen so you can then close down the iris to achieve the same brightness but have better contrast. 



WynsWrld98 said:


> 5040 owner not into gaming, 120" 16:9 image CIH setup larger with 2.4:1 content, watch 3D and 4K HDR content. What would I gain with a 5050 over my 5040?


HDR handling. The HDR slider is a huge improvement over the HDR handling in the 5040. That being said it isn't as great as it was compared to the current alternatives. JVC's handling in the NX5 and up is still the best that I know of inside a projector. If you can whip up an HTPC to play everything through MadVR then I say there is literally no advantage to going with a 5050.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Yeah, same should apply.
> 
> Based on what I know of your room, part velvet/part super flat paint, I'd look into using a white screen so you can then close down the iris to achieve the same brightness but have better contrast.


One of the reasons I went with the Black Flame Interstellar, is that the black bars fade away into the screen, so I never have to worry about masking. If I get a white screen, I'll have to deal with black bars. 


Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> One of the reasons I went with the Black Flame Interstellar, is that the black bars fade away into the screen, so I never have to worry about masking. If I get a white screen, I'll have to deal with black bars.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I have a white screen. The bars disappear onto the black screen wall for scope films. But I do sometimes use pillar masking for 16:9.


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> One of the reasons I went with the Black Flame Interstellar, is that the black bars fade away into the screen, so I never have to worry about masking. If I get a white screen, I'll have to deal with black bars.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


If you truly have no reflections in the room then the bars should be the same. But I bet you'd be surprised how much light you do get bouncing around off of things like leather chairs, black paint, etc. So yeah, the bars may show up more and you might want to do masking if you went with a white screen. On the other hand you'd be able to eek out more contrast and have the same brightness. Or the same contrast and more brightness. 

As I mentioned before, testing this stuff can be hard too. If you decide to try a sample piece of a white screen material it will be really hard to compare black levels between the two since you'd have the projector set up differently. But hey, if you are happy with your screen then why change it? Don't chase upgrades just because someone else likes it or does it. That's something I'm still trying to learn lol. I have a huge list of upgrades and I kinda forget why some are on there at times. 🤦‍♂️


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> I have a white screen. The bars disappear onto the black screen wall for scope films. But I do sometimes use pillar masking for 16:9.


I'm assuming you have a scope screen? So with a scope movie, you zoom the image to fit the screen, and the black bars are outside the screen, on the wall? Then with 16:9 content, you see the white screen on the left and right, correct? That's another benefit of the painted screen. I'm not strapped to an image size, because the entire wall is the screen. With a scope screen, the 16:9 image is restricted in size. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you truly have no reflections in the room then the bars should be the same. But I bet you'd be surprised how much light you do get bouncing around off of things like leather chairs, black paint, etc. So yeah, the bars may show up more and you might want to do masking if you went with a white screen. On the other hand you'd be able to eek out more contrast and have the same brightness. Or the same contrast and more brightness.
> 
> As I mentioned before, testing this stuff can be hard too. If you decide to try a sample piece of a white screen material it will be really hard to compare black levels between the two since you'd have the projector set up differently. But hey, if you are happy with your screen then why change it? Don't chase upgrades just because someone else likes it or does it. That's something I'm still trying to learn lol. I have a huge list of upgrades and I kinda forget why some are on there at times.


Yeah, my first thoughts are maybe my image would be even better with a white screen. My throw distance is only 14', so my room is obviously not that big. I think I'd get a lot of reflection with a white screen, even though the screen wall is surrounded by 5' of triple black velvet, carpet is black, no windows, and remaining walls are flat black paint. I guess if I really get curious, I could always get a Silver Ticket screen on Amazon, and if I'm not happy, they have free returns. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

fredworld said:


> I have a white screen. The bars disappear onto the black screen wall for scope films. But I do sometimes use pillar masking for 16:9.





biglen said:


> I'm assuming you have a scope screen? So with a scope movie, you zoom the image to fit the screen, and the black bars are outside the screen, on the wall? Then with 16:9 content, you see the white screen on the left and right, correct? That's another benefit of the painted screen. I'm not strapped to an image size, because the entire wall is the screen. With a scope screen, the 16:9 image is restricted in size.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Correct, scope screen, zoom for scope films, black bars fall outside the screen. For 16:9, white screen on left and right, BUT it doesn't look white even without side masking in place. It's not white because of the light/contrast from the illuminated part of the screen. Granted, it's not blending into the black painted screen wall but it's far from being a distraction...for me. I can easily swing the masking into place for better effect. 
Although it hasn't been discussed, the 1.0 gain of my screen makes for excellent off axis viewing.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Correct, scope screen, zoom for scope films, black bars fall outside the screen. For 16:9, white screen on left and right, BUT it doesn't look white even without side masking in place. It's not white because of the light/contrast from the illuminated part of the screen. Granted, it's not blending into the black painted screen wall but it's far from being a distraction...for me. I can easily swing the masking into place for better effect.
> Although it hasn't been discussed, the 1.0 gain of my screen makes for excellent off axis viewing.


What screen do you have, and what size ?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


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## wnydel2

I have seen the calculators for minimum and maximum viewing distances. But then I have seen some people comment they like sitting closer than those charts suggest.

Im going to have a back row that will be maybe 12-13 feet, eye to screen. What size screen would you comfortably use for that?

my next question, am I out of luck being able to realistically put a front row in?

Thanks for your input. It’s a small room and I ideally wanted seating for 6 but I could probably expand the rear to 4 seats, if a front row is out of the question.


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> What screen do you have, and what size ?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Stewart Studiotek100 94" wide. See my signature for full equipment lineup.


----------



## Enchy

I'm currently planning out a masking project inspired by this post: My Horizontal and Vertical Masking System (Revamp for...

I'm going to control it with arduinos over IR so I can manage it with my Harmony remote. Debating if I want to do horizontal masking too but I so rarely watch 4:3 content it may not become necessary.

I find the top and bottom bars super distracting so this project is pretty high on my priority list.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Stewart Studiotek100 94" wide. See my signature for full equipment lineup.


I use the Tapatalk app, and for some reason, signatures don't show up. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Although it hasn't been discussed, the 1.0 gain of my screen makes for excellent off axis viewing.


You can also get just as good of off-axis viewing with screens below 1.0 gain. The Stewart GrayMatte 70 is a lambertian screen just like your ST100.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

biglen said:


> Yeah, my first thoughts are maybe my image would be even better with a white screen. My throw distance is only 14', so my room is obviously not that big. I think I'd get a lot of reflection with a white screen, even though the screen wall is surrounded by 5' of triple black velvet, carpet is black, no windows, and remaining walls are flat black paint. I guess if I really get curious, I could always get a Silver Ticket screen on Amazon, and if I'm not happy, they have free returns.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


I'm bout at the same throw distance as you my room is 15x16x8 light controlled I went from a 120in elite aeon grey screen to a seymour av 135in glacier white and my projector is all the way zoomed out and there was a lot more pop to image I'm glad I made the switch

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


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## Sonic626

Hi all, wasn’t sure which forum to ask this in so starting with the projector. I have the 5050 and am getting weird green dots when trying to use my Xbox Series X in 4K mode. They don’t show in 1080, and I tried swapping the cable with one that works when using a 4K Roku but no change (the receiver is a Denon 760).
Anyone have experience with something like this?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Sonic626 said:


> Hi all, wasn’t sure which forum to ask this in so starting with the projector. I have the 5050 and am getting weird green dots when trying to use my Xbox Series X in 4K mode. They don’t show in 1080, and I tried swapping the cable with one that works when using a 4K Roku but no change (the receiver is a Denon 760).
> Anyone have experience with something like this?
> View attachment 3217105


Looks like it could HDMI sparkle. I’d try a different cable or move the Xbox and plug it directly into the 5050 to test


----------



## Sonic626

I found a fix, but it was weird enough I wanted to post a follow-up in case it helps someone else down the road. I tried a few cables and eventually had some luck, but after changing screens a few times by switching games or navigating back to the home page, the problem would come back. I played around with the video settings and by changing Color Depth from *8-bit* to *10-bit* the issue went away (without any noticeable impact to the picture to my untrained eyes). That seems counter-intuitive to me since I originally thought about this option as a way to decrease the amount of data being pushed through the cable, but since it was already as low as it could go I decided to play around anyway and it worked.

Even though I don't understand it my daughter now has Minecraft on a big screen so I'll take it!


----------



## RRF

PaulF757 said:


> Need some help. I've been streaming 4k movies on my Kodi, and lately the movies aren't filling the entire screen, is there anything Im doing wrong or is it the stream? The higher file movies are the ones with smaller picture size.
> Thanks.


Check the projector's input signal settings for EDID. It should be set to "Expanded"
Be sure to setup Kodi's Whitelist for all the resolutions and timings supported.


----------



## Zellio2009

Would it be stupid to buy this right now? Do projectors go down in price when ne*w *models come out? It seems like a slow moving field..

Would you guys say this is still the best projector for $3000 or so r...?


----------



## Marc D Carra

Zellio2009 said:


> Would it be stupid to buy this right now? Do projectors go down in price when ne*w *models come out? It seems like a slow moving field..
> 
> Would you guys say this is still the best projector for $3000 or so r...?


I think it's still the best choice in that price range. You could spend $500 more and get a BenQ V7050i which is laser, 3D capable and has pretty accurate color out of the box, but you would need an ALR screen to get decent contrast and it still would not have the contrast and blacks of the Epson 5050/6050. Not to mention the motorized lens memory for scope aspect screens. There's another new UST laser projector from Xiaomi that is Dolby Vision capable and supposed to have decent contrast and colors, but no 3D unfortunately.


----------



## ProcyonOne

I’m in that same boat. Buy the 5050 now or wait for the next model, or at least wait for a sale on the 5050 - there hasn’t been one for a while.


----------



## meski7

ProcyonOne said:


> I’m in that same boat. Buy the 5050 now or wait for the next model, or at least wait for a sale on the 5050 - there hasn’t been one for a while.


You’re preaching to the choir here. I have the same thoughts running through my head.


----------



## pottscb

Zellio2009 said:


> Would it be stupid to buy this right now? Do projectors go down in price when ne*w *models come out? It seems like a slow moving field..
> 
> Would you guys say this is still the best projector for $3000 or so r...?


Kind of depends on whether Epson discontinues this one when they release their laser pjs, I’d expect a small surge on sales if they do. Also, in addition to the others mentioned above, Optoma recently released a UHZ50 laser DLP with dimming that should compete with this one for $2700 but you’d trade contrast for sharpness on that one.


----------



## ProcyonOne

The UHZ50 is 2,500,000:1 and the 5050ub is 1,000,000:1 so wouldn't the UHZ50 have better contrast? Also, since I'm quite sensitive to the rainbow effect could this be a good choice anyway?


----------



## PixelPusher15

ProcyonOne said:


> The UHZ50 is 2,500,000:1 and the 5050ub is 1,000,000:1 so wouldn't the UHZ50 have better contrast? Also, since I'm quite sensitive to the rainbow effect could this be a good choice anyway?


Those are completely made up numbers. The 5050 is in the 5-6000:1 native range and the UHZ50 is most likely just under 1000:1. Dynamic contrast on the 5050 will realistically be in the 15k:1 range while I believe the UHZ50 will be lucky to hit 3000:1.


----------



## Enchy

marketing claiming 25,000,000:1 contrast on a projector is roughly equivalent to when you see a TV box claiming it's a 960Hz TV. Marketing specs rarely equate real world specs


----------



## ProcyonOne

PixelPusher15 said:


> Those are completely made up numbers. The 5050 is in the 5-6000:1 native range and the UHZ50 is most likely just under 1000:1. Dynamic contrast on the 5050 will realistically be in the 15k:1 range while I believe the UHZ50 will be lucky to hit 3000:1.


So should I go for the 5050 then?


----------



## ProcyonOne

meski7 said:


> You’re preaching to the choir here. I have the same thoughts running through my head.


I have decided to wait until after CES to purchase. If anything new is coming this year it should be revealed then. If there’s nothing new announced at about $3K that isn’t DLP then I’ll just buy the 5050 next week. For example if they updated the 4010 with 18gbps HDMI I’d probably buy that and save some Jack.


----------



## meski7

ProcyonOne said:


> I have decided to wait until after CES to purchase. If anything new is coming this year it should be revealed then. If there’s nothing new announced at about $3K that isn’t DLP then I’ll just buy the 5050 next week. For example if they updated the 4010 with 18gbps HDMI I’d probably buy that and save some Jack.


That's my plan as well. Unfortunately, in our new house, I'm not going to be able to ceiling mount the projector and will need some horizontal lens shift. For the price, I would already have the 4010 if it had 18gbps in it. At the price of the 5050, I just want some good confirmation of what I'm passing on since the projector is late in its life cycle right now.


----------



## mon2479

meski7 said:


> That's my plan as well. Unfortunately, in our new house, I'm not going to be able to ceiling mount the projector and will need some horizontal lens shift. For the price, I would already have the 4010 if it had 18gbps in it. At the price of the 5050, I just want some good confirmation of what I'm passing on since the projector is late in its life cycle right now.











Epson LS12000: The Most Advanced 4K Laser Cinema Projector From Epson


UPDATE: Epson Releases Their Most Advanced 4K Laser Projector to Date. The Epson LS12000 Introducing the newest Epson Pro Cinema Projectors the Epson LS12000. We heard it was going to be released and we were right! (As we usually are.) The...




www.projectorscreen.com





5060 and 6060???


----------



## jaredmwright

mon2479 said:


> Epson LS12000: The Most Advanced 4K Laser Cinema Projector From Epson
> 
> 
> UPDATE: Epson Releases Their Most Advanced 4K Laser Projector to Date. The Epson LS12000 Introducing the newest Epson Pro Cinema Projectors the Epson LS12000. We heard it was going to be released and we were right! (As we usually are.) The...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5060 and 6060???


Makes sense, not a compelling upgrade for existing 5050/6050 owners unless you are a gamer it looks like. Interested to hear the reviews and thorough comparison of these once released side by side.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

_As a gamer_ that projector is really compelling to me, but I'm not in love with the non-replaceable nature of laser light sources.


----------



## Marc D Carra

jaredmwright said:


> Makes sense, not a compelling upgrade for existing 5050/6050 owners unless you are a gamer it looks like. Interested to hear the reviews and thorough comparison of these once released side by side.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


The fact that these 2 new laser projectors don't have 3D is a hard no for me. I still have over 500 3D bluray titles I like to enjoy. A new projector needs to support 3D.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Marc D Carra said:


> The fact that these 2 new laser projectors don't have 3D is a hard no for me. I still have over 500 3D bluray titles I like to enjoy. A new projector needs to support 3D.


Exactly. I get tired of people dismissing 3D as a dead technology when people like you, me and others have tons of 3D Blurays we want to play. I also read people say have a second DLP projector just for 3D but I certainly don't want two projectors.


----------



## Enchy

Ahh I forgot these don't have 3D. That means I'm a hard no too. Watching 3D movies is an unparalleled joy.


----------



## jaredmwright

Agree with your 3D comments, that is a feature I use and enjoy also, so much better than on small screens, very immersive so a deal breaker for me also.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Zellio2009

Well I went for it, my first real projector. A new 5050ube for $3300. I also have a lot of 3d, and my pc gaming room already has a ultrawide 34" 3440x1440p 120hz monitor, a 24" 240hz monitor, and a 27" 1440p 240hz hdr monitor, so I don't need a gaming projector/tv. I do have a computer and gaming consoles for my theater, but I can 'deal' with 60hz I suppose...

It's gonna (replace?) a 65" 4k oled. It's an older model with 3d..


----------



## Viche

jaredmwright said:


> Makes sense, not a compelling upgrade for existing 5050/6050 owners unless you are a gamer it looks like. Interested to hear the reviews and thorough comparison of these once released side by side.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Eek $5500?
Might be too high for me.
Wonder if they will do variable refresh rates. That’s a key gamer feature.


----------



## Viche

jaredmwright said:


> Agree with your 3D comments, that is a feature I use and enjoy also, so much better than on small screens, very immersive so a deal breaker for me also.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I hate 3D in movie theaters. Doesn’t matter what technology (though I liked Mickey’s
Philharmagic at disney world). Honestly, would I like the 5050’s 3D?


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> I hate 3D in movie theaters. Doesn’t matter what technology (though I liked Mickey’s
> Philharmagic at disney world). Honestly, would I like the 5050’s 3D?


Worth trying. Buy the 3D glasses on Amazon and if you hate it, return them. 3D blu rays can be found easily at Half Price Books for $10 or less.


----------



## meski7

mon2479 said:


> Epson LS12000: The Most Advanced 4K Laser Cinema Projector From Epson
> 
> 
> UPDATE: Epson Releases Their Most Advanced 4K Laser Projector to Date. The Epson LS12000 Introducing the newest Epson Pro Cinema Projectors the Epson LS12000. We heard it was going to be released and we were right! (As we usually are.) The...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5060 and 6060???


Yes. Still looking for some good reviews stateside. It seems like the European reviewers have liked them, but I haven’t seen anything on-par with typical US reviews—the French one did seem close though.


----------



## Viche

Viche said:


> I hate 3D in movie theaters. Doesn’t matter what technology (though I liked Mickey’s
> Philharmagic at disney world). Honestly, would I like the 5050’s 3D?


Oh, I don’t own the 5050. I was just wondering if I should really prioritize that feature when buying a new projector considering that I don’t like it in movie theaters. Is there something significantly different about the home 3D experience?


----------



## PixelPusher15

meski7 said:


> Yes. Still looking for some good reviews stateside. It seems like the European reviewers have liked them, but I haven’t seen anything on-par with typical US reviews—the French one did seem close though.


They're not released here in the US yet. Epson USA up until this point wouldn't even comment on them. That looks like it will change here after CES. J. Atkinson said he has a meeting with Epson coming up. 

The prices in that article are also a bit off. They clearly are converting the VAT included pricing. The non-VAT pricing converts to about 4500-5000 IIRC. Still very high IMO


----------



## Viche

PixelPusher15 said:


> They're not released here in the US yet. Epson USA up until this point wouldn't even comment on them. That looks like it will change here after CES. J. Atkinson said he has a meeting with Epson coming up.
> 
> The prices in that article are also a bit off. They clearly are converting the VAT included pricing. The non-VAT pricing converts to about 4500-5000 IIRC. Still very high IMO


yeah $4500 pushes them out of a segment that they dominate and into the JVC realm. If only they would span the $3000 to $5000 segment and give us a slightly updated 5050, or just keep the 5050 as is and maybe lower the price to $2500.


----------



## pottscb

Viche said:


> yeah $4500 pushes them out of a segment that they dominate and into the JVC realm. If only they would span the $3000 to $5000 segment and give us a slightly updated 5050, or just keep the 5050 as is and maybe lower the price to $2500.


JVCs realm now starts at $7K (NP5) so only Sony has one at $5 (325ES)…Epson’s laser 12000 needs to come in under this and offer a discount as it’s not native 4K…also wouldn’t hurt if they kept the 5050 but don’t think they’ll discount as the pj industry is increasing prices across the board.


----------



## ProcyonOne

From the CES vendor list it looks like Epson is not attending. Was hoping for some announcements - maybe I should just buy the 5050, it has positive reviews all over.


----------



## Viche

pottscb said:


> JVCs realm now starts at $7K (NP5) so only Sony has one at $5 (325ES)…Epson’s laser 12000 needs to come in under this and offer a discount as it’s not native 4K…also wouldn’t hurt if they kept the 5050 but don’t think they’ll discount as the pj industry is increasing prices across the board.


Well doesn't that suck (JVC price). I thought the two new projectors were "4K resolution (8.3mil pixels) for detailed picture"


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> Well doesn't that suck (JVC price). I thought the two new projectors were "4K resolution (8.3mil pixels) for detailed picture"


They are 1080p panels with 4 way pixel shifting, so you do get all 8.3m pixels per refresh cycle, but not at the same time like a native 4K projector does.


----------



## Viche

Enchy said:


> They are 1080p panels with 4 way pixel shifting, so you do get all 8.3m pixels per refresh cycle, but not at the same time like a native 4K projector does.


Interesting. Was that in the article? How'd I miss that?


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> Interesting. Was that in the article? How'd I miss that?



















EH-LS12000B


Enjoy the big screen experience at home with this 4K, Laser, HDR10+ capable projector and Epson's 3LCD technology




www.epson.eu


----------



## NxNW

2.35:1 screen question.

I hate to interrupt the CES discussion but I'm thinking of buying a 5050 and just wanted to sanity check that it does lens memory well enough to support a 2.35:1 screen "zoom method" with no hassle.

I'm thinking of removing my Lumagen from the signal chain altogether. 

I used to use the Lumagen to handle switching between 2.35:1 <-> 16:9 content using the "digital zoom method", ie it instantaneously switches with a single button on the remote. ('Instantaneous' here is not a figure of speech, it's literally instant.) Not sure how long it takes for an actual physical zoom. Also not sure about focus memory and sharpness. Also not sure if, during zooming, vertical lens shift is also involved to keep the image centered and if that introduces any issues. 

I know all this was answered earlier but it's a very long thread by now and its surprisingly hard to search it efficiently with vague search terms like "zoom".


----------



## fredworld

NxNW said:


> 2.35:1 screen question.
> 
> I hate to interrupt the CES discussion but I'm thinking of buying a 5050 and just wanted to sanity check that it does lens memory well enough to support a 2.35:1 screen "zoom method" with no hassle.
> 
> I'm thinking of removing my Lumagen from the signal chain altogether.
> 
> I used to use the Lumagen to handle switching between 2.35:1 <-> 16:9 content using the "digital zoom method", ie it instantaneously switches with a single button on the remote. ('Instantaneous' here is not a figure of speech, it's literally instant.) Not sure how long it takes for an actual physical zoom. Also not sure about focus memory and sharpness. Also not sure if, during zooming, vertical lens shift is also involved to keep the image centered and if that introduces any issues.
> 
> I know all this was answered earlier but it's a very long thread by now and its surprisingly hard to search it efficiently with vague search terms like "zoom".


I have a 2.35 screen. Not to worry. The Lens Memory feature works great. Yes, you do have to adjust shift depending on your set up but it becomes part of the memory, so one button push and about 15 seconds later the Zoom and Lens Shift place the image in cinemascope. I do have a very slight focus issue sometimes if I obsess but otherwise it's unnoticeable at my viewing distance of 10 feet. Having said all that, some owners have issues with drift but I haven't.
A bonus is that the vertical and horizontal "blanking" features are also memory programmable, which I use for variable aspect ratio films by programming a narrower width for the non-Imax image and "blanking" only a portion of the IMAX image (top/bottom) so that the IMAX image is still taller than the non-IMAX image. But, of course, then there are the small black bars at the top and bottom of the non-Imax image, which is what you get in a movie theater anyway. I hope this helps.


----------



## NxNW

fredworld said:


> I have a 2.35 screen. Not to worry.


Fantastic. I can live with fifteen seconds. I guess. If not, well, the 4K version of the Lumagen is only an extra, what, 4 grand? 

Additional question, just found out there are _ahem_ certain members of the household that object to locating the projector exactly where I wanted. I'm hoping that placing it very "close" to the screen doesn't noticeably distort the image. It's a generous zoom range and should be able to accommodate 2.35:1 zoom activities across a broad range of mounting distances, but if I were to live only at one end of the range instead of safely in the middle, would there be any noticeable "optical" penalty?

I realize everything is brighter this way, so that's nice, just making sure the image wouldn't have a lot of barrel or pincushion or whatever happens when you are as close to the screen as possible within the allowable range.

For your projector central calculator people, I am talking about getting as close as 12 feet from a silver ticket 113" diagonal 2.35 screen. The screen surface is 44.5"h x115"w , so as a practical matter, I need to be able to make the 16:9 image produced by a 5050 zoom between two specific use cases, one where the projector's 16:9 output is 44.5" tall (a 91" diagonal) , AND SIMULTANEOUSLY, without moving the projector, I also need to be able to zoom so that the same 16:9 output could now occupy a space that is 115" wide (a 120" diagonal). By my calculations, this works, if just barely, approaching the limit of the zoom range.)


----------



## rekbones

NxNW said:


> Fantastic. I can live with fifteen seconds. I guess. If not, well, the 4K version of the Lumagen is only an extra, what, 4 grand?
> 
> Additional question, just found out there are _ahem_ certain members of the household that object to locating the projector exactly where I wanted. I'm hoping that placing it very "close" to the screen doesn't noticeably distort the image. It's a generous zoom range and should be able to accommodate 2.35:1 zoom activities across a broad range of mounting distances, but if I were to live only at one end of the range instead of safely in the middle, would there be any noticeable "optical" penalty?
> 
> I realize everything is brighter this way, so that's nice, just making sure the image wouldn't have a lot of barrel or pincushion or whatever happens when you are as close to the screen as possible within the allowable range.
> 
> For your projector central calculator people, I am talking about getting as close as 12 feet from a silver ticket 113" diagonal 2.35 screen. The screen surface is 44.5"h x115"w , so as a practical matter, I need to be able to make the 16:9 image produced by a 5050 zoom between two specific use cases, one where the projector's 16:9 output is 44.5" tall (a 91" diagonal) , AND SIMULTANEOUSLY, without moving the projector, I also need to be able to zoom so that the same 16:9 output could now occupy a space that is 115" wide (a 120" diagonal). By my calculations, this works, if just barely, approaching the limit of the zoom range.)


No distortion within the normal zoom or shift range if installed correctly (perpendicular in all three axis to the screen). Lumagen or MadVR envy are closer to $10K for the better models.


----------



## Enchy

NxNW said:


> Fantastic. I can live with fifteen seconds. I guess. If not, well, the 4K version of the Lumagen is only an extra, what, 4 grand?
> 
> Additional question, just found out there are _ahem_ certain members of the household that object to locating the projector exactly where I wanted. I'm hoping that placing it very "close" to the screen doesn't noticeably distort the image. It's a generous zoom range and should be able to accommodate 2.35:1 zoom activities across a broad range of mounting distances, but if I were to live only at one end of the range instead of safely in the middle, would there be any noticeable "optical" penalty?
> 
> I realize everything is brighter this way, so that's nice, just making sure the image wouldn't have a lot of barrel or pincushion or whatever happens when you are as close to the screen as possible within the allowable range.
> 
> For your projector central calculator people, I am talking about getting as close as 12 feet from a silver ticket 113" diagonal 2.35 screen. The screen surface is 44.5"h x115"w , so as a practical matter, I need to be able to make the 16:9 image produced by a 5050 zoom between two specific use cases, one where the projector's 16:9 output is 44.5" tall (a 91" diagonal) , AND SIMULTANEOUSLY, without moving the projector, I also need to be able to zoom so that the same 16:9 output could now occupy a space that is 115" wide (a 120" diagonal). By my calculations, this works, if just barely, approaching the limit of the zoom range.)


My projector is 11'10" away from a 120" 16:9 screen. That's basically right at the max end of the zoom. No distortion here.


----------



## NxNW

Perfect, thanks everyone! Not hearing any showstoppers so I guess I'll just proceed with the actual purchase and see how it goes from there. 

Not looking forward to tearing up my ceiling and relocating the mount but hey you gotta do what you gotta do. Learning how to use my low end Denon AVR as the HDMI switcher should be pretty simple by comparison


----------



## Marc D Carra

Has anyone ever compared the now discontinued JVC DLA-X790 with the Epson 5050ub? I know the Epson would be brighter, but what about color/contrast /blacks? If it was the same price, which would you get?


----------



## Sekosche

Question:
I finally got around to using the S&M HDR disc to tweak the contrast and brightness on my 5050; however, the guide I read said to leave contrast alone for HDR since it’s inherently harder to calibrate without proper equipment and skill.

For SDR with medium lamp, I wound up taking the contrast from the factory 50 down to zero using the contrast pattern and only knocking the brightness down to 48, auto iris on for now. Is this normal to have to drop the contrast so much for an optimal image? This is in a blacked out room with lots of velvet projecting from the minimum distance onto a 106” silver ticket high contrast 0.9 gain screen.

The demo footage on the disc looks incredible, and although viewing the HDR footage in digital cinema mode yields deeper color, better blacks, etc., there’s less discernible detail in some scenes, especially in the snow animal footage when leaving the contrast at the factory 50, (clipping the whites?), versus how I calibrated for SDR using natural mode with much lower contrast.


----------



## jaredmwright

Sekosche said:


> Question:
> I finally got around to using the S&M HDR disc to tweak the contrast and brightness on my 5050; however, the guide I read said to leave contrast alone for HDR since it’s inherently harder to calibrate without proper equipment and skill.
> 
> For SDR with medium lamp, I wound up taking the contrast from the factory 50 down to zero using the contrast pattern and only knocking the brightness down to 48, auto iris on for now. Is this normal to have to drop the contrast so much for an optimal image? This is in a blacked out room with lots of velvet projecting from the minimum distance onto a 106” silver ticket high contrast 0.9 gain screen.
> 
> The demo footage on the disc looks incredible, and although viewing the HDR footage in digital cinema mode yields deeper color, better blacks, etc., there’s less discernible detail in some scenes, especially in the snow animal footage when leaving the contrast at the factory 50, (clipping the whites?), versus how I calibrated for SDR using natural mode with much lower contrast.


Sounds similar to what I experience. I have two settings saved with Contrast at zero and another around 22. Minimal difference, but I have found that at 22 is shows more of the subtle dark areas better without sacrificing too much. Try different settings with S&M with the footage to compare, it's easy to pause and make adjustments on the fly to quickly compare. There is always a trade off somewhere.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

Marc D Carra said:


> Has anyone ever compared the now discontinued JVC DLA-X790 with the Epson 5050ub? I know the Epson would be brighter, but what about color/contrast /blacks? If it was the same price, which would you get?


The JVC hands down but in the right conditions. Without knowing all the many details of the room environment, screen, intended use, etc. etc. almost impossible to recommend anything. Does the JVC come with a warranty as they are extremely expensive to service and lamp cost may also be an issue.


----------



## Marc D Carra

rekbones said:


> The JVC hands down but in the right conditions. Without knowing all the many details of the room environment, screen, intended use, etc. etc. almost impossible to recommend anything. Does the JVC come with a warranty as they are extremely expensive to service and lamp cost may also be an issue.


My room is a dedicated theater room, no light, with matte black walls & ceiling and 5 feet of triple velvet around the front of the room, walls and ceiling. About 15',wide by 24'long. Projector ceiling mount is 16 feet from the front, seating is 10 to 12 feet from the front. I planned to mount the projector then get a screen. Either 110" scope or 120" 16x9.
I do watch some 3D but primarily 4k UHD material. Very little gaming. 
Here in Canada the JVC lamps will cost about $200 more than the Epson lamps. 
There is 900hrs on the JVC unit. Owner says it was a brand new replacement for a defective unit, with one of the last build dates. I will have to check on the warranty. 

I'm leaning towards the JVC but I'm wondering if it will handle HDR as good as the Epson?


----------



## rekbones

Marc D Carra said:


> My room is a dedicated theater room, no light, with matte black walls & ceiling and 5 feet of triple velvet around the front of the room, walls and ceiling. About 15',wide by 24'long. Projector ceiling mount is 16 feet from the front, seating is 10 to 12 feet from the front. I planned to mount the projector then get a screen. Either 110" scope or 120" 16x9.
> I do watch some 3D but primarily 4k UHD material. Very little gaming.
> Here in Canada the JVC lamps will cost about $200 more than the Epson lamps.
> There is 900hrs on the JVC unit. Owner says it was a brand new replacement for a defective unit, with one of the last build dates. I will have to check on the warranty.
> 
> I'm leaning towards the JVC but I'm wondering if it will handle HDR as good as the Epson?


Read this article Michigan Home Theater Meet & Projector Shoot-Out and the form post if you can find it. From your description JVC is still the best choice. HDR on anything other then a JVC NX/NZ is purely a general PIA without external help. The Epson slider is handy but that alone would not influence my choice in the slightest.


----------



## RVD26

Sekosche said:


> Question:
> I finally got around to using the S&M HDR disc to tweak the contrast and brightness on my 5050; however, the guide I read said to leave contrast alone for HDR since it’s inherently harder to calibrate without proper equipment and skill.
> 
> For SDR with medium lamp, I wound up taking the contrast from the factory 50 down to zero using the contrast pattern and only knocking the brightness down to 48, auto iris on for now. Is this normal to have to drop the contrast so much for an optimal image? This is in a blacked out room with lots of velvet projecting from the minimum distance onto a 106” silver ticket high contrast 0.9 gain screen.
> 
> The demo footage on the disc looks incredible, and although viewing the HDR footage in digital cinema mode yields deeper color, better blacks, etc., there’s less discernible detail in some scenes, especially in the snow animal footage when leaving the contrast at the factory 50, (clipping the whites?), versus how I calibrated for SDR using natural mode with much lower contrast.


Sounds like the same thing I experienced using the S&M disc. Pushing contrast all the way down to 0 was the only way to see the contrast test pattern. 
I'm a newbie at all this so I just put it back to the default setting and left it alone for now. Trying to calibrate with the disc was driving me crazy. 
I just tweak the settings here and there and learn to live with the picture settings I feel looks good.


----------



## PixelPusher15

RVD26 said:


> Sounds like the same thing I experienced using the S&M disc. Pushing contrast all the way down to 0 was the only way to see the contrast test pattern.
> I'm a newbie at all this so I just put it back to the default setting and left it alone for now. Trying to calibrate with the disc was driving me crazy.
> I just tweak the settings here and there and learn to live with the picture settings I feel looks good.





jaredmwright said:


> Sounds similar to what I experience. I have two settings saved with Contrast at zero and another around 22. Minimal difference, but I have found that at 22 is shows more of the subtle dark areas better without sacrificing too much. Try different settings with S&M with the footage to compare, it's easy to pause and make adjustments on the fly to quickly compare. There is always a trade off somewhere.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk





Sekosche said:


> Question:
> I finally got around to using the S&M HDR disc to tweak the contrast and brightness on my 5050; however, the guide I read said to leave contrast alone for HDR since it’s inherently harder to calibrate without proper equipment and skill.
> 
> For SDR with medium lamp, I wound up taking the contrast from the factory 50 down to zero using the contrast pattern and only knocking the brightness down to 48, auto iris on for now. Is this normal to have to drop the contrast so much for an optimal image? This is in a blacked out room with lots of velvet projecting from the minimum distance onto a 106” silver ticket high contrast 0.9 gain screen.
> 
> The demo footage on the disc looks incredible, and although viewing the HDR footage in digital cinema mode yields deeper color, better blacks, etc., there’s less discernible detail in some scenes, especially in the snow animal footage when leaving the contrast at the factory 50, (clipping the whites?), versus how I calibrated for SDR using natural mode with much lower contrast.


For those of you seeing this sort of clipping in SDR (which seems very odd to me) I'd be curious if you see the same thing when playing the YouTube video below. I'm wondering if you have something configured oddly with the disc player. When I use my UB420 and the S&M disc to calibrate contrast it matches what I get with the below YouTube video when playing on my Apple TV 4K. Well, it may be off a click but it's not drastically different. 




(obviously play it through a different source)

Just a double check too, y'all have your video range set to auto and haven't mucked with a bunch of the player's contrast or other settings?


----------



## ProcyonOne

meski7 said:


> You’re preaching to the choir here. I have the same thoughts running through my head.


Well I just gave up and purchased the 5050. Got tired of waiting and stressing over this! Maybe there will be something new coming that will be marginally better than the 5050, but either will be WAY better than my current 3850. Got a great discount at Parker Gwen too.


----------



## jaredmwright

PixelPusher15 said:


> For those of you seeing this sort of clipping in SDR (which seems very odd to me) I'd be curious if you see the same thing when playing the YouTube video below. I'm wondering if you have something configured oddly with the disc player. When I use my UB420 and the S&M disc to calibrate contrast it matches what I get with the below YouTube video when playing on my Apple TV 4K. Well, it may be off a click but it's not drastically different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (obviously play it through a different source)
> 
> Just a double check too, y'all have your video range set to auto and haven't mucked with a bunch of the player's contrast or other settings?


I will take a look this weekend when I have some time.


----------



## RVD26

PixelPusher15 said:


> For those of you seeing this sort of clipping in SDR (which seems very odd to me) I'd be curious if you see the same thing when playing the YouTube video below. I'm wondering if you have something configured oddly with the disc player. When I use my UB420 and the S&M disc to calibrate contrast it matches what I get with the below YouTube video when playing on my Apple TV 4K. Well, it may be off a click but it's not drastically different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (obviously play it through a different source)
> 
> Just a double check too, y'all have your video range set to auto and haven't mucked with a bunch of the player's contrast or other settings?


I have a Sony UBP-X700 player that I purchased as a refurb. I honestly haven't touched the settings. Do you know what settings would be recommended for that player?
I rarely use my Blu-ray player anyway. I mostly use streaming platforms and ripped Blu-ray files.


----------



## fredworld

Sekosche said:


> Question:
> I finally got around to using the S&M HDR disc to tweak the contrast and brightness on my 5050; however, the guide I read said to leave contrast alone for HDR since it’s inherently harder to calibrate without proper equipment and skill.
> 
> For SDR with medium lamp, I wound up taking the contrast from the factory 50 down to zero using the contrast pattern and only knocking the brightness down to 48, auto iris on for now. Is this normal to have to drop the contrast so much for an optimal image? This is in a blacked out room with lots of velvet projecting from the minimum distance onto a 106” silver ticket high contrast 0.9 gain screen.
> 
> The demo footage on the disc looks incredible, and although viewing the HDR footage in digital cinema mode yields deeper color, better blacks, etc., there’s less discernible detail in some scenes, especially in the snow animal footage when leaving the contrast at the factory 50, (clipping the whites?), versus how I calibrated for SDR using natural mode with much lower contrast.





jaredmwright said:


> Sounds similar to what I experience. I have two settings saved with Contrast at zero and another around 22. Minimal difference, but I have found that at 22 is shows more of the subtle dark areas better without sacrificing too much. Try different settings with S&M with the footage to compare, it's easy to pause and make adjustments on the fly to quickly compare. There is always a trade off somewhere.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk





PixelPusher15 said:


> For those of you seeing this sort of clipping in SDR (which seems very odd to me) I'd be curious if you see the same thing when playing the YouTube video below. I'm wondering if you have something configured oddly with the disc player. When I use my UB420 and the S&M disc to calibrate contrast it matches what I get with the below YouTube video when playing on my Apple TV 4K. Well, it may be off a click but it's not drastically different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (obviously play it through a different source)
> 
> Just a double check too, y'all have your video range set to auto and haven't mucked with a bunch of the player's contrast or other settings?


It does take some patience to obtain an overall near set-and-forget image for all sources. As I've mentioned in previous posts, my screen is really on the smallish side at 94" wide for my 2.35:1 Stewart StudioTek 100 (white 1.0 gain), so my results very well might be totally different than others. I haven't tried Andy's referenced You Tube.

My advice: Be sure that Auto Iris is OFF and your player is in its default settings. Start your adjustments with SDR. After settling on what is satisfactory with SDR move on to adjusting HDR based on those same SDR settings.

It's an iterative process. Did I mention that it requires patience? As some posted earlier doing A/B comparisons is easy using two or more memories. Experiment with your player's settings and try tweaking further with the 5050's adjustments.

For both HDR and SDR I settled on Digital Cinema and Iris at 0. Gamma for HDR is -2 and for SDR +1. My Panny's Optimizer is +1 for brightness, the other optimizer settings are at their defaults.

My Sony UBP-800M2 responds differently to the S&M's contrast patterns than my Panasonic DP-UB820 in that more of the brightest bars (but not all) can be made visible so the contrast setting on the 5050 is a few notches lower for the Sony (upper teens) than for my Panny (lower 20's), which crushes the brightest bars sooner. The 5050's Brightness is mostly at 50 or sometimes 49 for both players. Color is reduced to the mid-40's and Tint is up in the mid to upper 50's for both SDR and HDR because on source material colors looked a little too saturated.
The Color Dots patterns display numbers in all but two of the patterns. I'm mildly color blind but my wife has always been excellent at discerning colors, even better now after her cataract surgery, and she sees the same numbers as I. So, I think I have Color and Tint set as best as possible without objective measurements.

My blacks are not OLED like. They do not disappear onto my black screen wall behind my borderless screen but contrast on starfields looks very good. Lapels, folds and wrinkles in dark clothes in movies and TV are mostly well defined with very little crushing. Dark braided hair is well rendered. I pretty much keep Auto Iris Off and use Medium Lamp Mode all the time (except 3D for High Lamp). Also, I find my settings in 16:9 to work well enough in 2.35 to leave them alone.
I have no measuring equipment other than my eyeballs.
I'm not sure this helps anyone. But I can advise that patience helps and walking away from adjusting and just watching movies helps, too.
Addendum:
And I forgot to mention that my HDR slider is at 4 about 95% of the time. Rarely drop it as far as 2.
Finally, I use the 600 nit patterns from the S&M disc for the adjustments described in the above post.


----------



## Marc D Carra

rekbones said:


> Read this article Michigan Home Theater Meet & Projector Shoot-Out and the form post if you can find it. From your description JVC is still the best choice. HDR on anything other then a JVC NX/NZ is purely a general PIA without external help. The Epson slider is handy but that alone would not influence my choice in the slightest.


Thanks for your help. Looks like the JVC is hard to come by, even used, so I took a gamble that it will be better than the Epson and grabbed it. Its only got 800 hrs on it total in a little over 18 months so it seems like a good deal. I told myself I'd go laser but the contrast/black level of the JVC was just too temping to pass up!


----------



## caralmol

Enchy said:


> Built-in EDID for the Sony A1 (preset 8 on the Integral2). HDR slider set at 5. Digital Cinema. I ended up selling my Integral2 and will be picking up an Arcana here soon.


Thanks Enchy.


----------



## Enchy

caralmol said:


> Thanks Enchy.


I'm using an Arcana now and I have my slider at 3, digital cinema, using the 1000 nit preset.


----------



## fredworld

Post deleted.


----------



## ProcyonOne

Can anyone please tell me the the model of mount that comes packaged with the 6050? I know it’s a Chief, but not sure which one…..

Thanks!


----------



## David Lantz

I saw on Reddit that someone was able to stream Vudu 3d with an Apple TV 4K. I tried it and it does play (unlike the Xbox which immediately says it isn’t supported) but the projector doesn’t recognize the side by side as 3d and kick into a 3d mode. I’m wondering if I have a setting wrong or if it just isn’t going to work? Anyone use the Apple TV that can confirm it works or let me know what I might be doing wrong?


----------



## rekbones

David Lantz said:


> I saw on Reddit that someone was able to stream Vudu 3d with an Apple TV 4K. I tried it and it does play (unlike the Xbox which immediately says it isn’t supported) but the projector doesn’t recognize the side by side as 3d and kick into a 3d mode. I’m wondering if I have a setting wrong or if it just isn’t going to work? Anyone use the Apple TV that can confirm it works or let me know what I might be doing wrong?


If it is truly a SBS image you should be able to manually put the projector into SBS mode. If it's grayed out most likely your not sending a 1080p signal from the ATV as it will upgrade to 4K if you haven't forced 1080p.


----------



## Skylinestar

Is Epson lamp based HT projector come to a stand still now? It's CES 2022 and there's isn't any news about new projector. The last was the laser LS11000 and 12000.


----------



## caralmol

Enchy said:


> I'm using an Arcana now and I have my slider at 3, digital cinema, using the 1000 nit preset.


I am using the Vertex2 and using a calibrated (done by me) Dynamic and looks great using the slider at 7 and 1000 nits. I got the idea of calibrating Dynamic from Epson TW9400 / TW8400 / UB5050 / UB6050 Tips and Tricks 

l have Natural and Digital Cinema calibrated also, and Dynamic looks almost the same as Natural but way brighter.


----------



## David Lantz

rekbones said:


> If it is truly a SBS image you should be able to manually put the projector into SBS mode. If it's grayed out most likely your not sending a 1080p signal from the ATV as it will upgrade to 4K if you haven't forced 1080p.


Thanks! Set to1080p in settings on the Apple TV and then forced 3d on and it worked. Little annoying that I need to force the settings on both devices for it to work. Is there a faster way to swap or will apple always output 4k if it’s enabled? (I guess match content doesn’t match resolution)


----------



## AVRams

Sorry for my ignorance, but I have never got a clear answer on this: if you feed the projector a HDR signal will it automatically switch to the correct picture mode? 
Or do you have to force the projector into HDR mode yourself?


----------



## Enchy

AVRams said:


> Sorry for my ignorance, but I have never got a clear answer on this: if you feed the projector a HDR signal will it automatically switch to the correct picture mode?
> Or do you have to force the projector into HDR mode yourself?


It will automatically switch to HDR and enable the slider.


----------



## AVRams

Thank you for your response. 
Another question, did the ub5050 get the firmware update which enabled 3x pixel shifting? 
And did the update make a difference?


----------



## rekbones

Enchy said:


> It will automatically switch to HDR and enable the slider.


True it will switch to HDR mode but all the other setting remain the same. HDR to look good most likely will require a different preset (several actually for how HDR is mastered) and that you will have to manually select. Some other projectors will also select an HDR preset when HDR is detected but the Epson will not. You can store all you presets in up to 10 memory slots.


----------



## AVRams

rekbones said:


> True it will switch to HDR mode but all the other setting remain the same. HDR to look good most likely will require a different preset (several actually for how HDR is mastered) and that you will have to manually select. Some other projectors will also select an HDR preset when HDR is detected but the Epson will not. You can store all you presets in up to 10 memory slots.


Ok, I think I understand. It will stay in the same mode, but some settings will change automatically? For example, if the projector is in Bright Cinema it will change color space automatically, and HDR slider will be available?


----------



## biglen

AVRams said:


> Thank you for your response.
> Another question, did the ub5050 get the firmware update which enabled 3x pixel shifting?
> And did the update make a difference?


Yes, it did get the update. Some claim to see a difference, and others, like myself, see zero difference. 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


----------



## ricwhite

I believe the laser-based European LS11000 and LS12000 will be the next U.S. 5060 and 6060 projectors. It's the end of the line for the lamp-based versions. Pricing will jump quite a bit over the 5050/6050 models. Preliminary data seems to show the laser projectors to be a significant step forward. I'm hoping for an announcement of the U.S. versions within the next two months with availability to be in late spring. That is just my opinion from reading various articles and forums.


----------



## Enchy

Real shame about the lack of 3D. 4K/120Hz is a huge selling point for me but not worth losing 3D over


----------



## WynsWrld98

ricwhite said:


> I believe the laser-based European LS11000 and LS12000 will be the next U.S. 5060 and 6060 projectors. It's the end of the line for the lamp-based versions. Pricing will jump quite a bit over the 5050/6050 models. Preliminary data seems to show the laser projectors to be a significant step forward. I'm hoping for an announcement of the U.S. versions within the next two months with availability to be in late spring. That is just my opinion from reading various articles and forums.


What features do you see as a significant step forward?


----------



## ricwhite

WynsWrld98 said:


> What features do you see as a significant step forward?


The 5 year warranty, the 20,000 hour laser system, better smoothing and sharpness, and scene adaptive gamma system - which is similar to dynamic tone mapping to name a few.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Laser light engines will be the death of secondhand market for projectors as well as a waste of resources.
Especially for heavy users like myself.
This will be just like electric cars, where first use is excellent, but then when you have reached eol on light source, and the projector is only 5 years old and you can't sell it because replacing the light engine was never intended, the perfectly working unit ends up in a landfill or at best a recycling center. 

I know most people will replace their units way before eol for new models, but just like no one wants to buy an electric car where batrery change is imminent, i also see this happening for a product like these. 

I wrote epson asking these questions, and answer was light engine theoretically could be replaced, but cost would be very high and it would need to be sent in.

Will be some years before we see how this plays out though.

I for one is really apprehensive buying a laser unit. I use my projector as only source, and it runs anywhere from 8 to 14hrs a day, so i would reach eol on laser fairly quickly,and with the increased price tags, i am not sure projectors are for me going forward.


----------



## pottscb

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Laser light engines will be the death of secondhand market for projectors as well as a waste of resources.
> Especially for heavy users like myself.
> This will be just like electric cars, where first use is excellent, but then when you have reached eol on light source, and the projector is only 5 years old and you can't sell it because replacing the light engine was never intended, the perfectly working unit ends up in a landfill or at best a recycling center.
> 
> I know most people will replace their units way before eol for new models, but just like no one wants to buy an electric car where batrery change is imminent, i also see this happening for a product like these.
> 
> I wrote epson asking these questions, and answer was light engine theoretically could be replaced, but cost would be very high and it would need to be sent in.
> 
> Will be some years before we see how this plays out though.
> 
> I for one is really apprehensive buying a laser unit. I use my projector as only source, and it runs anywhere from 8 to 14hrs a day, so i would reach eol on laser fairly quickly,and with the increased price tags, i am not sure projectors are for me going forward.


I see this mentioned often but I’m convinced it won’t be as bad as all this. Runco/Sim2 starts their LED light source pjs 12 years ago and everyone said the same thing “when the bulb dies you have to throw away a $20K pj”. There have been reports of Runco/Sim2 selling users the LED light source (that they replace) and In the last few years there has been an aftermarket spring up for LED light sources for these pjs and they can be had for $200-300 and are user replaceable and brighter than OEM (look in the “older high end DLP thread” here). Those early adopters of LED pjs look like geniuses now as they’ve been enjoying their LEDs for 12-15 yrs and will keep enjoying them, or sell them if they want. I know LED isn’t laser but it was cutting edge and not well understood just as laser is now. If the laser light source is possible to replace, you can bet the aftermarket will rise to fill the need. The 5 yr/12000 hr warranty should tell you something about the expected longevity of these pjs/light source…Epson used to sell an add-on to their warranty, maybe they’ll do the same with these (or buy it with a credit card that doubles warranty repair period). BTW, I don’t work for Epson nor have I ever owned an Epson…I’m a JVC guy and if this pj has black levels similar to the 5050 that will probably be changing in the next year. If priced around $4K I think they’ll have a hard time keeping up with demand.


----------



## PixelPusher15

pottscb said:


> I see this mentioned often but I’m convinced it won’t be as bad as all this. Runco/Sim2 starts their LED light source pjs 12 years ago and everyone said the same thing “when the bulb dies you have to throw away a $20K pj”. There have been reports of Runco/Sim2 selling users the LED light source (that they replace) and In the last few years there has been an aftermarket spring up for LED light sources for these pjs and they can be had for $200-300 and are user replaceable and brighter than OEM (look in the “older high end DLP thread” here). Those early adopters of LED pjs look like geniuses now as they’ve been enjoying their LEDs for 12-15 yrs and will keep enjoying them, or sell them if they want. I know LED isn’t laser but it was cutting edge and not well understood just as laser is now. If the laser light source is possible to replace, you can bet the aftermarket will rise to fill the need. The 5 yr/12000 hr warranty should tell you something about the expected longevity of these pjs/light source…Epson used to sell an add-on to their warranty, maybe they’ll do the same with these (or buy it with a credit card that doubles warranty repair period). BTW, I don’t work for Epson nor have I ever owned an Epson…I’m a JVC guy and if this pj has black levels similar to the 5050 that will probably be changing in the next year. If priced around $4K I think they’ll have a hard time keeping up with demand.


I think the big issue with these lasers is that they are currently restricted devices. Consumers aren't supposed to be able to just buy one since they can be quite dangerous. Maybe this changes over time and there are restrictions that are put in place to allow this but, if I'm not mistaken, they are federally restricted devices. At least in the US.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

PixelPusher15 said:


> I think the big issue with these lasers is that they are currently restricted devices. Consumers aren't supposed to be able to just buy one since they can be quite dangerous. Maybe this changes over time and there are restrictions that are put in place to allow this but, if I'm not mistaken, they are federally restricted devices. At least in the US.


As they are in Europe.. I was looking for a laser pen for my dog,and all retailers will sell only to licensed companies if laser is over certain strength, i had no idea this was restricted,but from time to time you read about some dingdong who is blinding pilots in flight on landing pattern,which is propably one reason they are restricted.

And like Epson wrote to me.. Consumer cannot replace light engine, unit has to be shipped in for replacement,and cost is significant although they couldnt tell me exactly how much it would cost without a serial number, which i don't have.
You can't compare LED to laser..


----------



## DJ KOLA

Is it worth upgrading from 5030UB to 5050UB?

I have an 8 year old 5030UB that I loved and it still works okay (it has dimming issues on THX eco mode) but I want to move to a 4K projector. I bought the LG HU810 which was bright and crisp but had horrible black levels. I tried everything to get better blacks but I would need to invest in Calman calibration software, a colour meter, and an HDFury for LLDV to get better blacks which was cost-prohibitive and too much work. I liked the fact that the LG was laser but once you see the black levels on a UB projector it is hard to watch black levels that are washed out or crushed. I’m wondering if I will see an amazing leap from the 5030 to the 5050 since it is pixel shifting 4K? Any advice is appreciated.


----------



## jaredmwright

DJ KOLA said:


> Is it worth upgrading from 5030UB to 5050UB?
> 
> I have an 8 year old 5030UB that I loved and it still works okay (it has dimming issues on THX eco mode) but I want to move to a 4K projector. I bought the LG HU810 which was bright and crisp but had horrible black levels. I tried everything to get better blacks but I would need to invest in Calman calibration software, a colour meter, and an HDFury for LLDV to get better blacks which was cost-prohibitive and too much work. I liked the fact that the LG was laser but once you see the black levels on a UB projector it is hard to watch black levels that are washed out or crushed. I’m wondering if I will see an amazing leap from the 5030 to the 5050 since it is pixel shifting 4K? Any advice is appreciated.


I went from a 5030ub to 6050ub. The image is definitely sharper and improved with the latest firmware. The contrast is also slightly better vs 5030ub. I sold mine and used the money to buy a refurb and am very happy with the image, HDR and featureset. I will hold onto mine until something better comes along with 3D support at a reasonable price where the 5050/6050 are. I have an HD Fury Arcana for LLDV and am building a Video processor next to maximize the image via tone mapping based on the rave reviews I have read. The tone mapping is really the only lacking piece of this projector IMHO and with the Arcana is stabilizes it even further meaning less movement of the HDR slider and better consistency in image. Nothing near it in price is quite where it is for featureset and quality that I have seen.

I say go for it, the new Laser Epsons are just getting more expensive and not carrying 3D along and it is a sweet spot with an excellent image. A proper calibration to dial it in will maximize your experience especially in a light treated room.

I project onto a 175" screen in a dedicated room, it is really enjoyable.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

ricwhite said:


> I believe the laser-based European LS11000 and LS12000 will be the next U.S. 5060 and 6060 projectors. It's the end of the line for the lamp-based versions. Pricing will jump quite a bit over the 5050/6050 models. Preliminary data seems to show the laser projectors to be a significant step forward. I'm hoping for an announcement of the U.S. versions within the next two months with availability to be in late spring. That is just my opinion from reading various articles and forums.











Epson LS12000: The Most Advanced 4K Laser Cinema Projector From Epson


UPDATE: Epson Releases Their Most Advanced 4K Laser Projector to Date. The Epson LS12000 Introducing the newest Epson Pro Cinema Projectors the Epson LS12000. We heard it was going to be released and we were right! (As we usually are.) The...




www.projectorscreen.com





Yup. There's been a lot of talk and a VERY thin smattering of reviews on AVF - The LS12000 is probably the one to go for, with better contrast and only a comparatively small coast bump (~£300), though despite being announced before Christmas, it is only JUST starting to be available in Europe.

It is a FAIR slug of cash more than the outgoing UK/EU TW9400. £2500 vs £4400

It's missing 3D, no WCG filter and no iris. However laser dimming and the colour space is closer to DCI P3 to start with. People who have seen it in person certainly claim it has a very compelling image.

The older TW9400 however is looking like the end of the line, which leaves a MASSIVE chasm in price - There may be some close out deals in the near term, but i can see these models holding onto their value as there is basically nothing in the market which gets close to the bang for the buck that this PJ is!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> Epson LS12000: The Most Advanced 4K Laser Cinema Projector From Epson
> 
> 
> UPDATE: Epson Releases Their Most Advanced 4K Laser Projector to Date. The Epson LS12000 Introducing the newest Epson Pro Cinema Projectors the Epson LS12000. We heard it was going to be released and we were right! (As we usually are.) The...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.projectorscreen.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The older TW9400 however is looking like the end of the line, which leaves a MASSIVE chasm in price - There may be some close out deals in the near term, but i can see these models holding onto their value as there is basically nothing in the market which gets close to the bang for the buck that this PJ is!


This is a really interesting part to me right now. The 5050 is still a helluva projector yet it looks like there's nothing on Epson's short term roadmap that replaces it and there isn't anything else that competes with it. Models from JVC and Sony are going up in price just to further the gap. The new Epson's are doing the same. DLP still doesn't have anything that can really compete in a dedicated theater and it doesn't appear to be changing. I can't see Epson coming out with a bulb replacement for the 5050 anytime soon since that would distract from what they are wanting to do with the new LS models.

It really does look like the 5050 is just going to rule the 3000 market. Either as new, or used. I like what that says about resale value


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> It really does look like the 5050 is just going to rule the 3000 market. Either as new, or used. I like what that says about resale value


Yup.....Thankfully bulbs are pretty cheap.

And actually having watched a lot of things over Christmas and 3 years into this PJ. EVERY time i start it up, I still marvel at the image in my cinema - Feed it a good source and it can really shine!


----------



## pli66

First post here! I am looking to buy a 5050 and want to know if digital cinema mode on medium is good enough for HDR. The project will be in dedicated media room with 138" 2.35:1 AT screen, It will be mounted about 15 ft away from screen. Any feedback is appreciated!

Paul


----------



## PixelPusher15

pli66 said:


> First post here! I am looking to buy a 5050 and want to know if digital cinema mode on medium is good enough for HDR. The project will be in dedicated media room with 138" 2.35:1 AT screen, It will be mounted about 15 ft away from screen. Any feedback is appreciated!
> 
> Paul


Hey Paul. Welcome to the forum!

I'd be willing to wager that would be a solid no for most people. 

Pretty much any AT screen you pick from will have a gain of 0.85 or lower. And a 138" scope screen is pretty large. Based on the lumen output in high from Projector Reviews of 1100 in Digital Cinema, on a 0.8 gain screen you will get 18fL with a brand new bulb. You may hit 16fL in medium. Good enough for SDR, not really for HDR.

I have a 16:9 123" 0.8 gain AT screen and I get 56 nits off the screen in high with Digital Cinema. This means the calculations above are rather generous since I'm only getting 16fL on my 123" 16:9 screen.


----------



## pli66

PixelPusher15 said:


> Hey Paul. Welcome to the forum!
> 
> I'd be willing to wager that would be a solid no for most people.
> 
> Pretty much any AT screen you pick from will have a gain of 0.85 or lower. And a 138" scope screen is pretty large. Based on the lumen output in high from Projector Reviews of 1100 in Digital Cinema, on a 0.8 gain screen you will get 18fL with a brand new bulb. You may hit 16fL in medium. Good enough for SDR, not really for HDR.
> 
> I have a 16:9 123" 0.8 gain AT screen and I get 56 nits off the screen in high with Digital Cinema. This means the calculations above are rather generous since I'm only getting 16fL on my 123" 16:9 screen.


Andy, thanks a lot for your information!


----------



## Enchy

pli66 said:


> First post here! I am looking to buy a 5050 and want to know if digital cinema mode on medium is good enough for HDR. The project will be in dedicated media room with 138" 2.35:1 AT screen, It will be mounted about 15 ft away from screen. Any feedback is appreciated!
> 
> Paul


A few people here have had really good luck using Dynamic on high for HDR. Once I get my projector out of my room into the closet I'm going to start using that (projector right now is right behind my head and the fans are _very_ loud on high). Very bright image and the colors are accurate enough that it's still very workable. IMO it's worth sacrificing some color accuracy to get the "pop" of HDR.


----------



## pli66

Enchy said:


> A few people here have had really good luck using Dynamic on high for HDR. Once I get my projector out of my room into the closet I'm going to start using that (projector right now is right behind my head and the fans are _very_ loud on high). Very bright image and the colors are accurate enough that it's still very workable. IMO it's worth sacrificing some color accuracy to get the "pop" of HDR.


I am not too concerned of a little loss on color gamut but very sensitive to fan noisy so want to avoid high power as much as possible! Seems best option for me for HDR is natural on medium power. Based on review it outputs about 1800 Lumens calibrated.


----------



## Enchy

pli66 said:


> I am not too concerned of a little loss on color gamut but very sensitive to fan noisy so want to avoid high power as much as possible! Seems best option for me for HDR is natural on medium power. Based on review it outputs about 1800 Lumens calibrated.


I use Natural on eco for most of my viewing right now. It's great for HDR and SDR with low fan noise.


----------



## DJ KOLA

jaredmwright said:


> I went from a 5030ub to 6050ub. The image is definitely sharper and improved with the latest firmware. The contrast is also slightly better vs 5030ub. I sold mine and used the money to buy a refurb and am very happy with the image, HDR and featureset. I will hold onto mine until something better comes along with 3D support at a reasonable price where the 5050/6050 are. I have an HD Fury Arcana for LLDV and am building a Video processor next to maximize the image via tone mapping based on the rave reviews I have read. The tone mapping is really the only lacking piece of this projector IMHO and with the Arcana is stabilizes it even further meaning less movement of the HDR slider and better consistency in image. Nothing near it in price is quite where it is for featureset and quality that I have seen.
> 
> I say go for it, the new Laser Epsons are just getting more expensive and not carrying 3D along and it is a sweet spot with an excellent image. A proper calibration to dial it in will maximize your experience especially in a light treated room.
> 
> I project onto a 175" screen in a dedicated room, it is really enjoyable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Thanks, Jared for your insight and reply. I’m interested to find out more about the laser-based Epson‘s that could be the new 5060 but I’m not a fan of the potential price tag and the fact that it's not easy to replace the bulb. 

With that in mind, I pulled the trigger on the 5050UB as my replacement. I’m happy to say I‘m getting it on Friday in Canada which was a pleasant surprise since they seem to be sold out everywhere. Hopefully, I will be able to sell my 5030 as it's still in great condition.

On another note, does the HDFury enabling LLDV make a huge difference? I love Dolby Vision on my LG OLED and would pay the extra to get even deeper blacks with better contrast.


----------



## PixelPusher15

DJ KOLA said:


> Thanks, Jared for your insight and reply. I’m interested to find out more about the laser-based Epson‘s that could be the new 5060 but I’m not a fan of the potential price tag and the fact that it's not easy to replace the bulb.
> 
> With that in mind, I pulled the trigger on the 5050UB as my replacement. I’m happy to say I‘m getting it on Friday in Canada which was a pleasant surprise since they seem to be sold out everywhere. Hopefully, I will be able to sell my 5030 as it's still in great condition.
> 
> On another note, does the HDFury enabling LLDV make a huge difference? I love Dolby Vision on my LG OLED and would pay the extra to get even deeper blacks with better contrast.


DV doesn't give deeper blacks. No HDR gives deeper blacks. The black levels are determined by the display. What is usually happening when people say they get better blacks is that the tone mapping of HDR is much better and it brings contrast back to the image. This gives the perception that the black levels have improved because our own irises close down due to the increased image brightness. Here's an image from a very good article all about HDR from Projector Central that shows this. Take a look at the left image, especially on the bottom. That's typical bad HDR tone mapping









Utilizing DV we can sometimes get better tone mapping and this provides a more pleasing, contrasty image. Success with it has been spotty at times. You can read all about the issues and successes in this thread: Epson 5050 and HDFURY for Dolby Vision LLDV Dynamic Tone...

I personally saw a bigger difference in picture quality when I calibrated my 5050 for an HDR 1000 nit gamma curve than I did adding in a Vertex 2. I think putting the money toward a proper calibration is worth more than adding in LLDV. The combo works really well together though. If you do elect to get your projector calibrated, just wait a bit until the bulb settles. A good calibrator won't touch your projector until it does.


----------



## jaredmwright

@DJ KOLA congrats on getting the projector soon, I doubt you will be anything but impressed once it is dialed in for you environment, mine even out of the box was excellent and calibration just squeezes the rest of any capability left out.

@PixelPusher15 well said above. I agree with these statements and would add based on my experience that the LLDV is a nice feature to have in general. In the past with 4K streaming for example in order to get Atmos you needed to have a 4K display while 1080/non-4K content would not get Atmos. Having Dolby Vision available now and in the future to your projector may also provide additional benefits aside from the tone mapping DV provides. It isn't night or day on my 6050ub, it is more subtle but noticeable to the discerning eye. As others say, once you see something it is hard to unsee it and that is the case for me with LLDV. I would be happy with HDR and adjusting the slider as I was before, but it adds a little more and is a nice feature to have that is unlikely to come to projectors in our budget anytime soon. The Arcana is the best affordable set it and forget it solution that keeps it simple. I recommend it over the Vertex 2 or other expensive options unless you need it for more than DV and some of the supported video modes it offers.

The biggest benefit to our projector IMHO would be an affordable tone mapping solution that doesn't costs $5K-8K like MadVR Envy or Lumagen that requires expert installation and calibration. I am delving into the DIY http://VideoProcessor.org solution in the future to enable streaming and HDMI sourced DTM based on the positive experiences of MadVR with our projector from other people. This is a GPU based PC solution with freely available software. That probably will be the best upgrade available, and I will report back once I get that setup and working in case others are interested in following along.


----------



## DJ KOLA

PixelPusher15 said:


> DV doesn't give deeper blacks. No HDR gives deeper blacks. The black levels are determined by the display. What is usually happening when people say they get better blacks is that the tone mapping of HDR is much better and it brings contrast back to the image. This gives the perception that the black levels have improved because our own irises close down due to the increased image brightness. Here's an image from a very good article all about HDR from Projector Central that shows this. Take a look at the left image, especially on the bottom. That's typical bad HDR tone mapping
> View attachment 3222640
> 
> 
> Utilizing DV we can sometimes get better tone mapping and this provides a more pleasing, contrasty image. Success with it has been spotty at times. You can read all about the issues and successes in this thread: Epson 5050 and HDFURY for Dolby Vision LLDV Dynamic Tone...
> 
> I personally saw a bigger difference in picture quality when I calibrated my 5050 for an HDR 1000 nit gamma curve than I did adding in a Vertex 2. I think putting the money toward a proper calibration is worth more than adding in LLDV. The combo works really well together though. If you do elect to get your projector calibrated, just wait a bit until the bulb settles. A good calibrator won't touch your projector until it does.


Thanks for the detailed information and the clarifying response. I think getting a professional calibration done is the way to go. Unfortunately, the only option I have found in Toronto is Eastporters which costs $600. If anyone in Toronto has other contacts for a professional calibrator I’m all ears.


----------



## PixelPusher15

jaredmwright said:


> @DJ KOLA congrats on getting the projector soon, I doubt you will be anything but impressed once it is dialed in for you environment, mine even out of the box was excellent and calibration just squeezes the rest of any capability left out.
> 
> @PixelPusher15 well said above. I agree with these statements and would add based on my experience that the LLDV is a nice feature to have in general. In the past with 4K streaming for example in order to get Atmos you needed to have a 4K display while 1080/non-4K content would not get Atmos. Having Dolby Vision available now and in the future to your projector may also provide additional benefits aside from the tone mapping DV provides. It isn't night or day on my 6050ub, it is more subtle but noticeable to the discerning eye. As others say, once you see something it is hard to unsee it and that is the case for me with LLDV. I would be happy with HDR and adjusting the slider as I was before, but it adds a little more and is a nice feature to have that is unlikely to come to projectors in our budget anytime soon. The Arcana is the best affordable set it and forget it solution that keeps it simple. I recommend it over the Vertex 2 or other expensive options unless you need it for more than DV and some of the supported video modes it offers.
> 
> The biggest benefit to our projector IMHO would be an affordable tone mapping solution that doesn't costs $5K-8K like MadVR Envy or Lumagen that requires expert installation and calibration. I am delving into the DIY videoprocessor.org solution in the future to enable streaming and HDMI sourced DTM based on the positive experiences of MadVR with our projector from other people. This is a GPU based PC solution with freely available software. That probably will be the best upgrade available, and I will report back once I get that setup and working in case others are interested in following along.


I'm probably venturing in the same direction. I currently have all the HTPC components behind me except for a capture card. Before I get into Video Processor I'm going to have my hands full with setting up unRAID for my Plex server, then a Windows VM on top of that for MadVR, and some light gaming. I haven't messed with any HTPC stuff for 8 years now and only just recently got my feet wet with unRAID. I'm kinda excited to mess with all this stuff though, building computers is fun. This time my 7 year old daughter gets to help  

Let us know how VP goes for you. I expect to be there some day. I'm kinda hoping there's a cheaper 4K HDR 60hz capture card coming from DeckLink soon. 🤞


----------



## PixelPusher15

DJ KOLA said:


> Thanks for the detailed information and the clarifying response. I think getting a professional calibration done is the way to go. Unfortunately, the only option I have found in Toronto is Eastporters which costs $600. If anyone in Toronto has other contacts for a professional calibrator I’m all ears.











ISF Calibrators, where are you located? Please post here!


hello guys i just bought my SONY KDL40V5100, and i want it to calibrate to any Pro.ISF Calibrator located here in NY are specially in queens. any one of you guys can recommend a Pro. ISF Calibrator? thanks. Caloy




www.avsforum.com





Looks like Michael Osadciw is an option for you. Pricing looks to be just a bit cheaper for the base price + projector. https://www.videocalibrations.ca/pricing/

If you get it calibrated I'd spend time with the calibrator asking questions and learning what they are doing. Most are very happy to walk you through it. By doing this you'll gain some knowledge for in the future if you want to do it yourself. Which is of course an option right now if you want to spend a couple dozen+ hours learning lol

Maybe another option: ISF Calibrators, where are you located? Please post here!


----------



## David Lantz

pli66 said:


> I am not too concerned of a little loss on color gamut but very sensitive to fan noisy so want to avoid high power as much as possible! Seems best option for me for HDR is natural on medium power. Based on review it outputs about 1800 Lumens calibrated.


I find Natural on medium perfectly acceptable for HDR using a 120" 16:9 screen. Digital Cinema on medium is WAY too dark for HDR in my setup. DC bumped up to high is acceptable for brightness, but not if you're sensitive to noise. (I personally don't have an issue with the noise when content is playing even at high though). I also recommend getting dynamic setup as an HDR option. I don't like it for everything, but for movies with a lot of explosions and bright spaces, the extra pop is very noticeable. (Mad Max Fury Road, for example, looks better on dynamic than natural imo.)


----------



## jaredmwright

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'm probably venturing in the same direction. I currently have all the HTPC components behind me except for a capture card. Before I get into Video Processor I'm going to have my hands full with setting up unRAID for my Plex server, then a Windows VM on top of that for MadVR, and some light gaming. I haven't messed with any HTPC stuff for 8 years now and only just recently got my feet wet with unRAID. I'm kinda excited to mess with all this stuff though, building computers is fun. This time my 7 year old daughter gets to help
> 
> Let us know how VP goes for you. I expect to be there some day. I'm kinda hoping there's a cheaper 4K HDR 60hz capture card coming from DeckLink soon.


I went with the Decklink 4K mini even though it is limited to 30fps based on the fact that I don't use high refresh rates for movies. In the future if the better cards come down in price I may upgrade if there is a use case compelling enough. Picked up a 4K mini used for $125 and already have the PC so minimal cost involved. 

I have a Plex server as well, interested to hear how your unRAID with Plex goes. I settled on external USB 3.0 drives without RAID for simplicity vs internal. I went for basic, simple and flexible accepting a percentage of loss of failure if it happens to a single drive. 

I hadn't thought of combining these into a single server using virtualization, wonder how well that will work out.

These are fun hobbies for sure. My daughters just want to watch the movies, not get involved but they are teenagers now, lol.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

jaredmwright said:


> I hadn't thought of combining these into a single server using virtualization, wonder how well that will work out.


Me too! lol

I searched the MadVR threads and found a few people virtualizing Windows on a linux PC for HTPC duties so I figured I'd give it a try. Running the Plex server on Linux is supposed to be much more performant so I wanted to do that but I didn't want to have to build multiple machines. I tried running unRAID and PMS on a little old PC I have but for some reason I'm having issues with even direct playing 4K files on it. I believe its the USB controller on it since it doesn't have room for internal hard drives but as opposed to hacking that old thing up I figured I'd just try building one powerful PC.

🤞


----------



## DJ KOLA

PixelPusher15 said:


> ISF Calibrators, where are you located? Please post here!
> 
> 
> hello guys i just bought my SONY KDL40V5100, and i want it to calibrate to any Pro.ISF Calibrator located here in NY are specially in queens. any one of you guys can recommend a Pro. ISF Calibrator? thanks. Caloy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like Michael Osadciw is an option for you. Pricing looks to be just a bit cheaper for the base price + projector. https://www.videocalibrations.ca/pricing/
> 
> If you get it calibrated I'd spend time with the calibrator asking questions and learning what they are doing. Most are very happy to walk you through it. By doing this you'll gain some knowledge for in the future if you want to do it yourself. Which is of course an option right now if you want to spend a couple dozen+ hours learning lol
> 
> Maybe another option: ISF Calibrators, where are you located? Please post here!





PixelPusher15 said:


> ISF Calibrators, where are you located? Please post here!
> 
> 
> hello guys i just bought my SONY KDL40V5100, and i want it to calibrate to any Pro.ISF Calibrator located here in NY are specially in queens. any one of you guys can recommend a Pro. ISF Calibrator? thanks. Caloy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like Michael Osadciw is an option for you. Pricing looks to be just a bit cheaper for the base price + projector. https://www.videocalibrations.ca/pricing/
> 
> If you get it calibrated I'd spend time with the calibrator asking questions and learning what they are doing. Most are very happy to walk you through it. By doing this you'll gain some knowledge for in the future if you want to do it yourself. Which is of course an option right now if you want to spend a couple dozen+ hours learning lol
> 
> Maybe another option: ISF Calibrators, where are you located? Please post here!


Thanks Andy - For the life of me I couldn’t find anything when I did a google search. I will reach out to both and check out some reviews. Much appreciated. I’m located in Toronto.


----------



## JoeBoy73

pli66 said:


> First post here! I am looking to buy a 5050 and want to know if digital cinema mode on medium is good enough for HDR. The project will be in dedicated media room with 138" 2.35:1 AT screen, It will be mounted about 15 ft away from screen. Any feedback is appreciated!
> 
> Paul


Hello Paul,

HDR is pretty tough on projectors, but it can done with pretty good results even on AT screens. You also mentioned DC mode on medium power, and I'm pretty sure they are running higher that than lol. Check this out 16:9, 171 inch, AT grey screen:


----------



## rwalktheplank

I have some calibration questions related to trying this myself with a colorimeter...
1) If the meter needs to be connected to and run from a PC, does that mean the resulting changes will only work if running content through the PC?
2) If 1 is true, how do people apply these settings so they can be used for streaming devices and/or bluray?


----------



## PixelPusher15

rwalktheplank said:


> I have some calibration questions related to trying this myself with a colorimeter...
> 1) If the meter needs to be connected to and run from a PC, does that mean the resulting changes will only work if running content through the PC?
> 2) If 1 is true, how do people apply these settings so they can be used for streaming devices and/or bluray?


Hey, you'll get better more complete answers if you ask in the thread designated for the calibration software you are going to use. 

But, the easy answer is in most cases no, the settings apply to any source so long you have them set up properly, specifically the video range. 

Here's the sub-forum for display calibration: Display Calibration


----------



## Alaric

rwalktheplank said:


> I have some calibration questions related to trying this myself with a colorimeter...
> 1) If the meter needs to be connected to and run from a PC, does that mean the resulting changes will only work if running content through the PC?
> 2) If 1 is true, how do people apply these settings so they can be used for streaming devices and/or bluray?


You use the PC to read the values from the colorimeter. You can use the software to show patterns, a disc, pattern generator or other device.
You make tweaks to the calibration settings on the Projector using the remote.


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## NxNW

Life is so much easier if the same PC doing the measuring either generates the patterns itself or controls the pattern generator. That way you can automate a whole sequence of measurements with no manual intervention.

Having said that, once you feel like you've got things adjusted the way you like, it's always wise to make some kind of spot check using a different source for patterns.

In the bad old days of analog every source had to be calibrated separately and results from one didn't necessarily apply to another. Nowadays, As long as you're not making a gross error (like "video" versus "PC" range settings), all digital devices should more or less behave the same for these purposes.


----------



## Jmouse007

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Laser light engines will be the death of secondhand market for projectors as well as a waste of resources.
> Especially for heavy users like myself.
> This will be just like electric cars, where first use is excellent, but then when you have reached eol on light source, and the projector is only 5 years old and you can't sell it because replacing the light engine was never intended, the perfectly working unit ends up in a landfill or at best a recycling center.
> 
> I know most people will replace their units way before eol for new models, but just like no one wants to buy an electric car where batrery change is imminent, i also see this happening for a product like these.
> 
> I wrote epson asking these questions, and answer was light engine theoretically could be replaced, but cost would be very high and it would need to be sent in.
> 
> Will be some years before we see how this plays out though.
> 
> I for one is really apprehensive buying a laser unit. I use my projector as only source, and it runs anywhere from 8 to 14hrs a day, so i would reach eol on laser fairly quickly,and with the increased price tags, i am not sure projectors are for me going forward.


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Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP
Epson TW9300 or TW9400 for next gen consoles?
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jibber951
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Discussion Starter · #1 · 3 d ago

I've used an infocus business projector (IN3118HD) for nearly ten years now and it's time to upgrade. I briefly went with a Samsung QE85Q95T QLED TV, but i can't get used to it after so many years of a projector image.

My big question is in regards to the next gen consoles: I have a PS5 and an Xbox Series X. I don't need HDMI 2.1 with 120Hz, etc... but i would like to have them running at least in their native 4k resolution. I'm also not hell bent on HDR as i think most games still have awful HDR implementation nowadays.

I can get a used Epson TW9300w (with 900 lamp hours) including an Elite Screens EZ Frame CineGrey 5D screen for 1800 bucks. Or i can get a brand new TW9400 (without WiFi) for 2700 bucks (and would in addition to that need a new screen).

Which one would you choose? The used TW9300 including the screen, or a brand new TW9400 including warranty?
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Jmouse007
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#2 · 3 d ago

EPSON 6050UB/TW9400 owner here. You absolutely want to buy a new TW9400. The TW9300 is incapable of passing an 18 gig per second signal which is one of the most important features of the upgraded TW9400 and a very important prerequisite/standard benchmark for 4K gaming going forward.

Apart from the upgraded video performance of the TW9400, this is one of the huge reasons why TW9300 owners upgraded to the EPSON 6050UB/TW9400.

Speaking from personal experience, if you are planning on gaming there's no comparison, buy the new EPSON TW9400!

Not only can it handle every game you'll want to play now and in the future. Gaming on the EPSON 6050UB/TW9400 is incredible.
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jibber951
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Discussion Starter · #3 · 1 d ago

Thanks for the insight!

I‘m now even debating to wait and save up for an LH12000b. I think this would be a future proof investment regarding the laser light source and the (real) HDMI 2.1 input.

I‘m just wondering about the FI on the 12000b. It‘s great for gaming, but can this be turned off for movies (i‘m not a big fan of frame interpolation for movies)?

I‘m still not sure if a TW9400 would be the more reasonable choice. I can get a brand new one for less than half the price of the 12000b.
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Jmouse007
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#4 · 1 d ago

Yes lasers seem to be the "wave of the future" , no lamps to change. However, when a lamp on the 6050UB dims all you need to do is replace it. On top of that the cost of the new OEM EPSON lamp is very reasonable, especially if you live in the UK or overseas. Heck, the EPSON 6050UB comes with an extra free lamp!

Since the life expectancy of the EPSON 6050UB/TW9400 lamp is 5,000 hours on ECO mode you will have to buy 3 to 5 replacement lamps (depending on if you have a free lamp or not) to get to 20,000 hours with plenty of lamp light to spare. And even after 20,000+ hours you still have a projector that you can use.

Many will probably say most owners don't keep their projectors that long. That's true, however some buyers don't have thousands upon thousands of dollars to spend replacing/upgrading their projectors every few years and are buying/investing for long-term use (the projector I recently replaced with the EPSON 6050UB had over 16,000 hours on it).

When the laser assembly dims or dies you have to THROW THE WHOLE PROJECTOR AWAY , and buy new, it literally has ZERO RESALE VALUE = $5, - $6,000 down the tubes.

This won't be too bad for owners who upgrade projectors every few years, they will be able able to recover some of the cost.

However, they probably won't be able to get nearly as much for their used laser projector because every hour used diminishes the PERMANENT LIFE SPAN of the laser assembly. It is like having a car that you can't repair any of the major components on... every mile you drive it is permanently diminishing in value and you can NEVER fix it.

Therefore if you have a lot of hours on the used laser projector you a selling you won't get much for it, or you won't be able to sell it at all. That's not the case with the EPSON 6050UB , or any other reliable used lamp based projector.

The ultimate decision is the consumer's but the EPSON 6050UB/TW9400 is an exceptional dollar to performance value for a 4K projector that does it all incredibly well, INCLUDING 3D and the latest gaming for short money.


----------



## Jmouse007

Jmouse007 said:


> Yes lasers seem to be the "wave of the future" , no lamps to change. However, when a lamp on the 6050UB dims all you need to do is replace it. On top of that the cost of the new OEM EPSON lamp is very reasonable, especially if you live in the UK or overseas. Heck, the EPSON 6050UB comes with an extra free lamp!
> 
> Since the life expectancy of the EPSON 6050UB/TW9400 lamp is 5,000 hours on ECO mode you will have to buy 3 to 5 replacement lamps (depending on if you have a free lamp or not) to get to 20,000 hours with plenty of lamp light to spare. And even after 20,000+ hours you still have a projector that you can use.
> 
> Many will probably say most owners don't keep their projectors that long. That's true, however some buyers don't have thousands upon thousands of dollars to spend replacing/upgrading their projectors every few years and are buying/investing for long-term use (the projector I recently replaced with the EPSON 6050UB had over 16,000 hours on it).
> 
> When the laser assembly dims or dies you have to THROW THE WHOLE PROJECTOR AWAY , and buy new, it literally has ZERO RESALE VALUE = $5, - $6,000 down the tubes.
> 
> This won't be too bad for owners who upgrade projectors every few years, they will be able able to recover some of the cost.
> 
> However, they probably won't be able to get nearly as much for their used laser projector because every hour used diminishes the PERMANENT LIFE SPAN of the laser assembly. It is like having a car that you can't repair any of the major components on... every mile you drive it is permanently diminishing in value and you can NEVER fix it.
> 
> Therefore if you have a lot of hours on the used laser projector you a selling you won't get much for it, or you won't be able to sell it at all. That's not the case with the EPSON 6050UB , or any other reliable used lamp based projector.
> 
> The ultimate decision is the consumer's but the EPSON 6050UB/TW9400 is an exceptional dollar to performance value for a 4K projector that does it all incredibly well, INCLUDING 3D and the latest gaming for short money.


EPSON will NOT be selling "replacement" laser modules to consumers. From a "business standpoint" it would make no sense. Owners would just replace the laser module instead of forking over another $5 - $7,000 for a new projector, unless EPSON made the cost to do so prohibitively expensive... which they probably will. 

Once your laser module comes to the end of its life, you are stuck buying a new $5-7000 projector. For many of us that proposition is cost prohibitive.

If my EPSON 6050UB is still running like a champ after 20,000 hours, the cost of a $150 to $300 replacement lamp is peanuts compared to having to shell out $5 - $7 THOUSAND DOLLARS for a new laser projector just because the laser module has died and cannot be replaced.

And I still have access to 3D!


----------



## DJ KOLA

Jmouse007 said:


> EPSON will NOT be selling "replacement" laser modules to consumers. From a "business standpoint" it would make no sense. Owners would just replace the laser module instead of forking over another $5 - $7,000 for a new projector, unless EPSON made the cost to do so prohibitively expensive... which they probably will.
> 
> Once your laser module comes to the end of its life, you are stuck buying a new $5-7000 projector. For many of us that proposition is cost prohibitive.
> 
> If my EPSON 6050UB is still running like a champ after 20,000 hours, the cost of a $150 to $300 replacement lamp is peanuts compared to having to shell out $5 - $7 THOUSAND DOLLARS for a new laser projector just because the laser module has died and cannot be replaced.
> 
> And I still have access to 3D!


All of the above plus the environmental costs of throwing away a laser projector instead of just replacing a lamp is enormous. I have an Epson 5030 but wanted an upgrade to 4k. I first bought the LG 810 which was bright, colorful with terrible black levels and contrast. After I realized I couldn’t replace the laser and it would go to the junkyard I returned it and bought a 5050UB. I’m still tweaking the calibration settings but way happier with the picture. Now I can sell my 5030 which is beast in its own right.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

I was actually contemplating buying a backup TW9400 as it is the single best projector i have ever owned, but i don't know how electronics would fare unused in a box for like 5-8 more years. Ofcourse i could just install new one,and pack old one away,but same dilemma, will it degrade in a box over time,ofcourse it would be kept at a constant temperature more or less in my house free of dust in the original box,but still,it is a gamble..


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I was actually contemplating buying a backup TW9400 as it is the single best projector i have ever owned, but i don't know how electronics would fare unused in a box for like 5-8 more years. Ofcourse i could just install new one,and pack old one away,but same dilemma, will it degrade in a box over time,ofcourse it would be kept at a constant temperature more or less in my house free of dust in the original box,but still,it is a gamble..


I've had components packed away without issues. My JVC VHS decks still worked as does my reel to reel after stored for more than a decade before I installed them in my new home which is now 15 years old. They still work. Played a VHS tape a few weeks ago and a reel to reel last night. Work like a charm. Of course, I do from time to time lube and clean but a projector doesn't have nearly as many moving parts. I think it's a good gamble.


----------



## DJ KOLA

Enchy said:


> Yep. Using an Integral 2. Been playing Forza Horizon 5 in Dolby Vision and it is really something else.
> 
> Only annoying thing is having to manually force the Epson into HDR mode when watching something with Dolby Vision. Not the end of the world as I have a Harmony macro setup, but it does lead to times like last night where I watch 3 minutes of a movie wondering why the colors look off only to realize I still had it forcing HDR.


Enchy, I’m planning on using a Vertex V1 already on order. How do you force the Epson 5050 UB into HDR. Will I have to do this every time I am watching LLDV?


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> I've had components packed away without issues. My JVC VHS decks still worked as does my reel to reel after stored for more than a decade before I installed them in my new home which is now 15 years old. They still work. Played a VHS tape a few weeks ago and a reel to reel last night. Work like a charm. Of course, I do from time to time lube and clean but a projector doesn't have nearly as many moving parts. I think it's a good gamble.


Electronics were built differently back then. Isn't your vhs made in Japan? Electronics today are not built to last, so it is trusting chinese manufacturing and parts. I don't know how epson does it and how their quality control is, it can't be that good seing a lot of people buy refurbished units.


----------



## DJ KOLA

DJ KOLA said:


> Enchy, I’m planning on using a Vertex V1 already on order. How do you force the Epson 5050 UB into HDR. Will I have to do this every time I am watching LLDV?


I figured it out - its in dynamic range in settings. Do you know if you need to do this with Vertex V1?


----------



## Enchy

DJ KOLA said:


> I figured it out - its in dynamic range in settings. Do you know if you need to do this with Vertex V1?


You can also do this by pushing the HDR button on the remote. 

The HDFury thread is the best place to ask this.


----------



## Kieran

biglen said:


> Is anyone using an Nvidia Shield Pro with their 5050? I have a Shield from 2015, that doesn't do the upscaling. I'm curious if the Pro would improve my PQ when using YouTube TV, over the 5050 upscaler.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Hey BG - I've been lagging in this thread sorry for the late response to this; but with respect to upscaling:
I have the shield pro, and recently was blown away by the upscaling. Allow me to elaborate:
I have a version of Star Wars you may have heard about called "Harmy's Despecialized Edition." It is 720p and a really nice version of SWep4 to own, IMO. I recently watched it for the first time via my Shield Pro (using Kodi to stream from my NAS). Since it's a pretty high quality 720p video, the 4k upsampling had a lot to work with, and it really was impressive. Almost to the point where I didn't like it because it looked TOO good (for a 1977 movie). I even played it in comparison (switching between sources) with my Bluray of the Lucas specialized editions, and it looked way sharper than that. Detail in the actors skin and hair was really incredible. Again for this source it was over the top, because I'm so so familiar with this movie, that it just didn't look right. I have not tried it with anything else. I will say it was not as jarring as high frame rate can be (with the associated soap opera effect) but it was kind of a similar experience. Reason was, at first I didn't realize I had it turned on!! So my brain was struggling to reconcile why this movie all of a sudden had so much detail. 
I wish, like frame interpolation, there was a sliding scale to adjust how sharp it made the image. It was just a little too much for my eye. Not noisy (like sharpness control on a TV could do) though. 
HTH. Worth checking out if/when you get a Pro.


----------



## jaredmwright

Kieran said:


> Hey BG - I've been lagging in this thread sorry for the late response to this; but with respect to upscaling:
> I have the shield pro, and recently was blown away by the upscaling. Allow me to elaborate:
> I have a version of Star Wars you may have heard about called "Harmy's Despecialized Edition." It is 720p and a really nice version of SWep4 to own, IMO. I recently watched it for the first time via my Shield Pro (using Kodi to stream from my NAS). Since it's a pretty high quality 720p video, the 4k upsampling had a lot to work with, and it really was impressive. Almost to the point where I didn't like it because it looked TOO good (for a 1977 movie). I even played it in comparison (switching between sources) with my Bluray of the Lucas specialized editions, and it looked way sharper than that. Detail in the actors skin and hair was really incredible. Again for this source it was over the top, because I'm so so familiar with this movie, that it just didn't look right. I have not tried it with anything else. I will say it was not as jarring as high frame rate can be (with the associated soap opera effect) but it was kind of a similar experience. Reason was, at first I didn't realize I had it turned on!! So my brain was struggling to reconcile why this movie all of a sudden had so much detail.
> I wish, like frame interpolation, there was a sliding scale to adjust how sharp it made the image. It was just a little too much for my eye. Not noisy (like sharpness control on a TV could do) though.
> HTH. Worth checking out if/when you get a Pro.


I think there are 3 levels of AI upscaling, have you tried the others.


Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Kieran

jaredmwright said:


> I think there are 3 levels of AI upscaling, have you tried the others.


This was a few weeks ago, and I think I realized it at the time, but never tried other settings, and then forgot that there were other settings when I posted this.


----------



## grayson

Which is the best picture mode to use for a white screen in a fully light controlled room? For both hdr and SDR? 

Also best picture mode for ps5 gaming? 
Thanks


----------



## fredworld

grayson said:


> Which is the best picture mode to use for a white screen in a fully light controlled room? For both hdr and SDR?
> 
> Also best picture mode for ps5 gaming?
> Thanks


I use Digital Cinema tweaked using the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark disc* but Digital Cinema might not work for you depending on screen size, screen make/model and throw distance. I don't game.


----------



## PixelPusher15

grayson said:


> Which is the best picture mode to use for a white screen in a fully light controlled room? For both hdr and SDR?
> 
> Also best picture mode for ps5 gaming?
> Thanks


Natural is a pretty common one to use. It's one of the better-calibrated modes out of the box and gives you good brightness. Many will use it in Eco for SDR. They also will use it in Medium or high for HDR. Like fredworld said, Digital Cinema can be a good choice for HDR if the light reduction still works for your screen. I'd say these are the most common recommended color modes. Bright Cinema and Dynamic will give you more brightness but will sacrifice color (and will push blue/green). Some like those modes because of the brightness but that is personal taste at that point. If you are going for accuracy then those won't do it. But it's your projector, use what looks good to you.


----------



## Enchy

I use Natural on medium for PS5 gaming. Once I move my projector into my equipment closet and noise is no longer an issue I'm going to switch to Dynamic on high.


----------



## jibber951

Does anybody have a recommendation for the HDR settings on the Xbox Series S and PS5 itself? Like: How many clicks in the three HDR setup steps for each console?


----------



## Enchy

jibber951 said:


> Does anybody have a recommendation for the HDR settings on the Xbox Series S and PS5 itself? Like: How many clicks in the three HDR setup steps for each console?


Go based on what it looks like in your room. Using someone else's settings is never the way.


----------



## jibber951

Another question:

Is it normal when adjusting focus that the lens physically moves? When i adjust focus the picture on the screen (90“ screen) moves / shifts diagonally by about 1 centimeter back and forth across the screen (from bottom left to top right, back and forth).

The projector is mounted on the ceiling (wall to wall is 4 meters distance), i‘m using the full lens shift to bring the image down enough, and some zoom to make it small enough to fit the screen).

I‘m not exaggerating, the image literally shifts back and forth several times by at least 1cm in a diagonal line while going through the focus range?

It‘s a brand new TW9400. Is it broken?


----------



## fredworld

jibber951 said:


> Another question:
> 
> Is it normal when adjusting focus that the lens physically moves? When i adjust focus the picture on the screen (90“ screen) moves / shifts diagonally by about 1 centimeter back and forth across the screen (from bottom left to top right, back and forth).
> 
> The projector is mounted on the ceiling (wall to wall is 4 meters distance), i‘m using the full lens shift to bring the image down enough, and some zoom to make it small enough to fit the screen).
> 
> I‘m not exaggerating, the image literally shifts back and forth several times by at least 1cm in a diagonal line while going through the focus range?
> 
> It‘s a brand new TW9400. Is it broken?


My image remains stable during focus but my lens shift is minimal because the PJ is centrally mounted to the screen with the lens 11" above the top of the screen.


----------



## Viche

Enchy said:


> I use Natural on medium for PS5 gaming. Once I move my projector into my equipment closet and noise is no longer an issue I'm going to switch to Dynamic on high.


Will there be something blocking sound from the front vents when it’s in the closet? If so, won’t that affect cooling? If the front will be open to the theater, is it just the fact that the body is in another area that will lower the noise level?


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> Will there be something blocking sound from the front vents when it’s in the closet? If so, won’t that affect cooling? If the front will be open to the theater, is it just the fact that the body is in another area that will lower the noise level?


I bought a 10mm thick port window from Home Theatre Glass


----------



## Viche

Enchy said:


> I bought a 10mm thick port window from Home Theatre Glass


so won’t the front facing vent just blow right up against the rest of the window? Seems like that would prevent the hot air from dissipating and cause it to recirculate back to the intake.


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> so won’t the front facing vent just blow right up against the rest of the window? Seems like that would prevent the hot air from dissipating and cause it to recirculate back to the intake.


Gonna have a few inches of space between the vents and the walls. The closet has a decent amount of airflow and the fans I installed in the room have temp sensors so if it gets toasty they'll kick on. If the pj is overheating I have the ability to add more cooling to the room, but I don't think it'll be an issue.


----------



## Viche

Enchy said:


> Gonna have a few inches of space between the vents and the walls. The closet has a decent amount of airflow and the fans I installed in the room have temp sensors so if it gets toasty they'll kick on. If the pj is overheating I have the ability to add more cooling to the room, but I don't think it'll be an issue.


Cool. I have unfinished basement space behind the wall where I want to install the projector, but I'm concerned that it would be too dusty (there's foil covered insulation on the exterior walls and no dry wall on the ceiling, so I'm guessing that will generate more dust). Wonder what I could do to remedy that. air purifier in the unfinished space?


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> Cool. I have unfinished basement space behind the wall where I want to install the projector, but I'm concerned that it would be too dusty (there's foil covered insulation on the exterior walls and no dry wall on the ceiling, so I'm guessing that will generate more dust). Wonder what I could do to remedy that. air purifier in the unfinished space?


Air purifier might work, or you could build a hush box with filters on the intake fans


----------



## Viche

Enchy said:


> Air purifier might work, or you could build a hush box with filters on the intake fans


Good idea. I wonder if it would be worth dividing the box down the middle, left and right and use a collar around the lens so that the one side of the hush box has an exhaust fan and the other has an intake fake in order to align with the one intake and exhaust ports on the front of the projector.


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> Good idea. I wonder if it would be worth dividing the box down the middle, left and right and use a collar around the lens so that the one side of the hush box has an exhaust fan and the other has an intake fake in order to align with the one intake and exhaust ports on the front of the projector.


If I was designing a hush box that's how I would do it. AC Infinity makes 120mm fans that have temp probes. So you could program them to only kick on when the box hits X temperature. I'm using their fans to exhaust the hot air out of my closet. With the price of plywood and MDF these days though you might have to sell your house to afford the materials


----------



## Viche

Enchy said:


> If I was designing a hush box that's how I would do it. AC Infinity makes 120mm fans that have temp probes. So you could program them to only kick on when the box hits X temperature. I'm using their fans to exhaust the hot air out of my closet.


Yeah I was just on their site. I feel like I'd have to do a lot of thinking about this as I'm not a wood worker and not even sure what materials I should use, how I would suspend the box, and how I would insulate it. If only I had more free time. Sigh.

Wonder what kind of filter you could use...would it need to be HEPA or would that block too much air flow?


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> Yeah I was just on their site. I feel like I'd have to do a lot of thinking about this as I'm not a wood worker and not even sure what materials I should use, how I would suspend the box, and how I would insulate it. If only I had more free time. Sigh.
> 
> Wonder what kind of filter you could use...would it need to be HEPA or would that block too much air flow?


I have a pretty neat suspension method for my projector shelf. Should all be built this weekend so I'll post some pics in here once it's done.

I would just get a PC fan dust filter for the size fans you use. They're pretty effective I use them on my desktop PC I built.


----------



## Viche

Enchy said:


> I have a pretty neat suspension method for my projector shelf. Should all be built this weekend so I'll post some pics in here once it's done.
> 
> I would just get a PC fan dust filter for the size fans you use. They're pretty effective I use them on my desktop PC I built.


AC Infinity says that they don't recommend a filter for their super quiet USB fans. A filter would kill the fan. Instead they recommended their Axial fans, the slowest of which is rated at about 28 dBA. Adding a filter would probably increase that a bit. How loud is the 5050 fan noise on low, med and high?

The filters they sell look more like metal mesh screens.
92mm Fan Filter Kit
It says it prevents up to 90% of dust particles from passing through the fan. Wonder what particle size though.


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> AC Infinity says that they don't recommend a filter for their super quiet USB fans. A filter would kill the fan. Instead they recommended their Axial fans, the slowest of which is rated at about 28 dBA. Adding a filter would probably increase that a bit. How loud is the 5050 fan noise on low, med and high?
> 
> The filters they sell look more like metal mesh screens.
> 92mm Fan Filter Kit
> It says it prevents up to 90% of dust particles from passing through the fan. Wonder what particle size though.


Projector central rates the noise at 31db on high, 20 db on eco.


----------



## Viche

Enchy said:


> Projector central rates the noise at 31db on high, 20 db on eco.


Hmmm...wonder if enough of the sound from a 30db projector, two 30db fans, and a room air purifier would make it's way through to the theater space to make doing a hush box not worth it for me. 🧐


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> Hmmm...wonder if enough of the sound from a 30db projector, two 30db fans, and a room air purifier would make it's way through to the theater space to make doing a hush box not worth it for me. 🧐


If your port is open with no glass, it definitely would get through.


----------



## fredworld

Viche said:


> ...How loud is the 5050 fan noise on low, med and high?....


*Here's my post* from sometime back with my SPL measurements.


----------



## jibber951

Viche said:


> How loud is the 5050 fan noise on low, med and high?


Will you have it on a shelf or ceiling mount?

I've got a 5050 since three days. On the first day i've set it up on a little coffee table to test it out, 2nd day i've mounted it to the ceiling. The fan noise was noticeably louder when it was set to "ceiling / front" projection. So much louder than the first day when it was on the coffee table, i've now built a wall shelf and took down the ceiling mount. The second you switch it back to "front" projection, you can hear the fans becoming more quiet. 

Just my two cents, might help...


----------



## Viche

jibber951 said:


> Will you have it on a shelf or ceiling mount?
> 
> I've got a 5050 since three days. On the first day i've set it up on a little coffee table to test it out, 2nd day i've mounted it to the ceiling. The fan noise was noticeably louder when it was set to "ceiling / front" projection. So much louder than the first day when it was on the coffee table, i've now built a wall shelf and took down the ceiling mount. The second you switch it back to "front" projection, you can hear the fans becoming more quiet.
> 
> Just my two cents, might help...


Ah, I seem to remember this. So the fans speed is based on whether or not the projetor is upside down? I plan to build a shelf to sit it on, so it whould be right side up, but it will be directly behind and above me. Trying to decide if I should seal it into a box that vents into the unfinished space in the room behind me.


----------



## PixelPusher15

@Viche, here’s a thread I created asking for some input on my hush box. I still haven’t gotten to it yet since I’m not sure if I’ll change projector or not.








Can I get some feedback on hush box design for Epson 5050?


I'm looking to rebuild my semi-hush box into a full-on hush box but would like some input on whether I'm over or under designing it and if it will be quiet enough. Once of my main goals is to not be able to hear the dynamic iris moving. The fan noise isn't too bad but the iris is annoying...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## biglen

Viche said:


> Ah, I seem to remember this. So the fans speed is based on whether or not the projetor is upside down? I plan to build a shelf to sit it on, so it whould be right side up, but it will be directly behind and above me. Trying to decide if I should seal it into a box that vents into the unfinished space in the room behind me.











I built a box in the wall, and installed the Infinity fan inside the box, on the side wall. I have it set to pull the air out of the box. It never gets above 80 in the box. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## vic1250

Viche said:


> So the fans speed is based on whether or not the projetor is upside down?


I always though its on the smaller models only, but seems like the opposite is true. The noise difference is quite significant.

I'm getting a new 9400 in a few days, can you share how many of you have the pixel shifter noise issue? I'm unfortunately using a 60hz HTPC source... Half of the reviews mention the noise, some russian reviews measure it to me +2db with is ok, but the high pitch will make is sound twice as loud and disturbing.


----------



## DavidK442

biglen said:


> I built a box in the wall, and installed the Infinity fan inside the box, on the side wall. I have it set to pull the air out of the box. It never gets above 80 in the box.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nice setup. Is the front enclosed with theater glass. Difficult to tell, but I guess that's the point.


----------



## biglen

DavidK442 said:


> Nice setup. Is the front enclosed with theater glass. Difficult to tell, but I guess that's the point.


It is not. If the fan bothered me, I would have used glass. It’s open in the front, and the fan is not loud at all. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

vic1250 said:


> I always though its on the smaller models only, but seems like the opposite is true. The noise difference is quite significant.
> 
> I'm getting a new 9400 in a few days, can you share how many of you have the pixel shifter noise issue? I'm unfortunately using a 60hz HTPC source... Half of the reviews mention the noise, some russian reviews measure it to me +2db with is ok, but the high pitch will make is sound twice as loud and disturbing.


Is it detectable, yes. It does not bother me though and melts away into the background. I wouldn't worry about it unless you have reason to (location is extremely close to viewing perhaps)? And honestly, the picture is excellent with it enabled. I don't see the need for native 4K with how well this is executed and with the latest firmware installed. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## RRF

Anyone using a Vero4K+ media player with the 5050UB?


----------



## realcodeguy

biglen said:


> Also, leave Video Conversion ON and i/P Scaler OFF. Let the Epson do the upscaling, and Video Conversion is what gives you the volume bar on the screen.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk


Thank you, I was looking for solution as to why I had no OSD with my x4200w and this worked!


----------



## vic1250

jaredmwright said:


> Is it detectable, yes. It does not bother me though and melts away into the background. I wouldn't worry about it unless you have reason to (location is extremely close to viewing perhaps)? And honestly, the picture is excellent with it enabled. I don't see the need for native 4K with how well this is executed and with the latest firmware installed.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Thanks for that info! Unfortunately I might have a problem with 6050/tw9400 as its my 5th epson now... I've got in the past high pitched bulb noise, 4/5 had noisy irises, fan noise is acceptable only in the 9000 series and only in Eco mode.

I can tolerate the auto iris noise, but can't stand the fan noise and also high pitched and varying whine. Seems like I won't be able to use the pixel shifter and unfortunately from my 4m/14feet viewing distance I can see the screen door effect at a 150" screen I use. Pretty frustrating situation this is...

EH-TW9400 / 5050UB 420 Hz Buzz at 60 Hz Input


----------



## DavidK442

vic1250 said:


> Thanks for that info! Unfortunately I might have a problem with 6050/tw9400.
> 
> EH-TW9400 / 5050UB 420 Hz Buzz at 60 Hz Input


Your first projector experience I assume?
Was going to say that I will look for one of your “defects” to hit the refurbished section but I see you are not in North America.


----------



## vic1250

DavidK442 said:


> Your first projector experience I assume?
> Was going to say that I will look for one of your “defects” to hit the refurbished section but I see you are not in North America.


No, I'm in Europe and this is going to be my 5th Epson. Each had its own issues, but that noise and unit inconsistency in quality control is very frustrating. After knowing Epson very well I now expect and try to predict what my next issues will be. I've be before in a situation when I had to buy with my own money a second unit because my first one had a brain melting 14khz whine that Epson didn't care about. Where I'm located there're no showrooms anymore, we buy a sealed box with projector in and hope for the best. I've got dust blobs from brand new, pulsating bulbs, whining sound, noise auto iris, dead bulbs at 1000h mark, bad convergence, and optical issues with the older models I still keep.

So now I wonder what do I need to do buy a reasonably good example of 9400 without whining 4k? I can seen the pixel grid in subtitles, distant object, and bright objects as well, so its no good if I can't use the 4k enhancement because of the noise.


----------



## Thalguy

Last night my 5050 started showing this when displaying 4k content: 

It doesn't do that when showing 1080p content. I did a decent amount of troubleshooting: restarted the projector, unplugged and reseated the HDMI cable, tried uhd discs and streaming, restarted the receiver, power cycled the projector. The only thing left is to hook my Xbox directly to the projector with a new HDMI cable to eliminate my receiver. 

Has anyone seen this before?


----------



## jaredmwright

vic1250 said:


> Thanks for that info! Unfortunately I might have a problem with 6050/tw9400 as its my 5th epson now... I've got in the past high pitched bulb noise, 4/5 had noisy irises, fan noise is acceptable only in the 9000 series and only in Eco mode.
> 
> I can tolerate the auto iris noise, but can't stand the fan noise and also high pitched and varying whine. Seems like I won't be able to use the pixel shifter and unfortunately from my 4m/14feet viewing distance I can see the screen door effect at a 150" screen I use. Pretty frustrating situation this is...
> 
> EH-TW9400 / 5050UB 420 Hz Buzz at 60 Hz Input


More surround volume maybe to drown it out!? 

J/K, sounds like you have had quite the poor experience unfortunately and that can be extremely frustrating. I wonder if there is any relation to the issues you have had and the difference in power in the UK vs the US or the fact that we operate on different HZ 50 vs 60. That's the only thing that comes to mind and or needing power conditioning, otherwise super bad luck of the draw.

I agree, the 4K option is key, I throw onto a 175" screen from 18' and it is an improved image with it on. I run mine on Medium mostly and find the sound very minimal overall for dynamic iris, eshift and fan noise. It is about 5 feet over and just behind my seating position.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

Thalguy said:


> Last night my 5050 started showing this when displaying 4k content:
> 
> It doesn't do that when showing 1080p content. I did a decent amount of troubleshooting: restarted the projector, unplugged and reseated the HDMI cable, tried uhd discs and streaming, restarted the receiver, power cycled the projector. The only thing left is to hook my Xbox directly to the projector with a new HDMI cable to eliminate my receiver.
> 
> Has anyone seen this before?


I have seen this due to HDMI cable issues or connections. Other than that I don't know what else could cause it all of the sudden, maybe others can chime in.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Viche

PixelPusher15 said:


> @Viche, here’s a thread I created asking for some input on my hush box. I still haven’t gotten to it yet since I’m not sure if I’ll change projector or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I get some feedback on hush box design for Epson 5050?
> 
> 
> I'm looking to rebuild my semi-hush box into a full-on hush box but would like some input on whether I'm over or under designing it and if it will be quiet enough. Once of my main goals is to not be able to hear the dynamic iris moving. The fan noise isn't too bad but the iris is annoying...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Thanks. That's a good thread. So are you going to divide the box in half or not?
Also, how do you save a thread in this new AVSForum? It used to be so easy.




vic1250 said:


> I always though its on the smaller models only, but seems like the opposite is true. The noise difference is quite significant.
> 
> I'm getting a new 9400 in a few days, can you share how many of you have the pixel shifter noise issue? I'm unfortunately using a 60hz HTPC source... Half of the reviews mention the noise, some russian reviews measure it to me +2db with is ok, but the high pitch will make is sound twice as loud and disturbing.


So it's quieter when facing upright correct?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Viche said:


> Thanks. That's a good thread. So are you going to divide the box in half or not?
> Also, how do you save a thread in this new AVSForum? It used to be so easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it's quieter when facing upright correct?


I've never wanted to save a whole thread, just a post. For that it's pretty easy on the bottom right of each post. You can give each saved post a comment too. So you could write something like "Post on hush box - look at the whole thread"

I'm most likely going to split the box in two. At least I'll give it an effort. The best placement for my vents will be on the box of the box. If I don't try to cycle the air through the projector by dividing it then I feel like I'm leaving it up to fluid dynamics chance that the air flows properly. I could see a good amount of hot air pooling in the front of the box, but I'm not a scientist.


----------



## vic1250

jaredmwright said:


> More surround volume maybe to drown it out!?


Not practical at all, movies have huge dynamic range and when the soundtrack quiets down the whine reminds of itself and become even more dreadful. Also human ears are most sensitive in the midrange frequencies and having the PJ at 4-5feet distance makes it next to impossible to drown out the noise..at least not for the whole movie and not before the neighbors strongly complain. Also many times we want to calmly watch a movies that is mostly dialogue. Another bad Epson ting is that any models change the fan profiles according to the color profile on top of the eco/high mode, meaning for some stupid reason the inner fans speed up when you chose a mode that is without the color filter applied. The idea is that it is supposed to be watch in high lamp, but when you switch to eco the noise is still elevated. Why is that? Lamp is in eco and the inner fans are +3-4db for nothing really, just not very well though out firmware coding. Wish those companies thought more about the noise issue, its like there's no customer demand in that department.... 


Viche said:


> So it's quieter when facing upright correct?


Its the best way to use your projector anyways, the easiest to level it out, also if you check the insides, for many models its actually advisable as the temperature are better spread out. Older models even had optics gluing issues from the heat when ceiling mounted. I've only used the ceiling option when I hadn't been given the option to vertically shift the picture. I haven't tried on my 9 series, but the smaller Epsons have huge difference in noise level when ceiling mounted, like +4-5db.

I also stopped using my hush box the moment I shelf mounted my first PJ, the only thing I plan on using is just a few oval shaped acoustic panels in front of the ports. Hushbox is not an easy project as it need a lot of though and knowledge, for example I have a Noctua fans that I choose from 10pcs sample, they are completely silent handheld in the air, but the moment they gets close to the hushbox's openings when they're supposed to the mounted, the noise starts. They are not even touching the wood and still makes noise that is because the frequency of the spinning reacts to the inner hushbox volume the whole thing becomes sort of resonator. In the projector tunnels happens the same thing, the body rings despite using the quietest possible fans. So making it quieter than a pj in eco mode is very difficult and you don't want to risk mistakes with the thermal design.


----------



## RVD26

Thalguy said:


> Last night my 5050 started showing this when displaying 4k content:
> 
> It doesn't do that when showing 1080p content. I did a decent amount of troubleshooting: restarted the projector, unplugged and reseated the HDMI cable, tried uhd discs and streaming, restarted the receiver, power cycled the projector. The only thing left is to hook my Xbox directly to the projector with a new HDMI cable to eliminate my receiver.
> 
> Has anyone seen this before?


Try using the other HDMI input on the projector or another HDMI input on the AVR.


----------



## Kieran

jibber951 said:


> Another question:
> 
> Is it normal when adjusting focus that the lens physically moves? When i adjust focus the picture on the screen (90“ screen) moves / shifts diagonally by about 1 centimeter back and forth across the screen (from bottom left to top right, back and forth).
> 
> The projector is mounted on the ceiling (wall to wall is 4 meters distance), i‘m using the full lens shift to bring the image down enough, and some zoom to make it small enough to fit the screen).
> 
> I‘m not exaggerating, the image literally shifts back and forth several times by at least 1cm in a diagonal line while going through the focus range?
> 
> It‘s a brand new TW9400. Is it broken?


As an experiment, I would relax the lens shift a bit, so raise the image above where you want, then see if this still happens.
Focus definitely moves the lens on any lens, but it should be moving only axially in/out relative to the image. However if you have shifted the lens to lower the image to the max, then the mechanical ability of the lens to move smoothly on it's focus axis may be affected. So, temporarily put the image close to the center of its vertical shift range, then try to focus and see if this abnormal shifting phenomenon is still happening. If it is, I'd say something's wrong. If the behavior goes away, then it may be normal and related to using max image/lens shift for your screen height.
Post back with results this is interesting.


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> I've never wanted to save a whole thread, just a post. For that it's pretty easy on the bottom right of each post. You can give each saved post a comment too. So you could write something like "Post on hush box - look at the whole thread"
> 
> I'm most likely going to split the box in two. At least I'll give it an effort. The best placement for my vents will be on the box of the box. If I don't try to cycle the air through the projector by dividing it then I feel like I'm leaving it up to fluid dynamics chance that the air flows properly. I could see a good amount of hot air pooling in the front of the box, but I'm not a scientist.


Hey Andy,
Sorry I never followed up in that hushbox ventilation thread with you; I stopped getting notified about it for some reason. Anyway, I agree with post #20 in that dividing the volume of the box is not necessary.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Kieran said:


> Hey Andy,
> Sorry I never followed up in that hushbox ventilation thread with you; I stopped getting notified about it for some reason. Anyway, I agree with post #20 in that dividing the volume of the box is not necessary.


No worries. It's been back burner-ed anyway. Looks like I'll go with the simple plan then


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> so won’t the front facing vent just blow right up against the rest of the window? Seems like that would prevent the hot air from dissipating and cause it to recirculate back to the intake.


Ended up being worried about this when after you mentioned it, so I grabbed an 80mm fan from AC Infinity that hooks up the controller for my AC Infinity exhaust fan. Should be able to clear any heat buildup.


----------



## pottscb

Enchy said:


> Ended up being worried about this when after you mentioned it, so I grabbed an 80mm fan from AC Infinity that hooks up the controller for my AC Infinity exhaust fan. Should be able to clear any heat buildup.
> 
> View attachment 3229582


Fancy! My setup is similar but my projector fires through a porthole from a 75 sq/ft utility closet which heats up during the summer running the pj, the closet door opens to the AC return vent so I can cook it off in 60 sec if needed but I usually don’t worry about it. Been meaning to divert an AC vent to that closet for years but it never gets above 80 deg.


----------



## biglen

Enchy said:


> Ended up being worried about this when after you mentioned it, so I grabbed an 80mm fan from AC Infinity that hooks up the controller for my AC Infinity exhaust fan. Should be able to clear any heat buildup.
> 
> View attachment 3229582


Is that pushing, or pulling the hot air?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

@biglen, what settings are you using for MadVR HDR? I'm trying to find something I'm happy. (Boy is it nice to have good DTM)


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> @biglen, what settings are you using for MadVR HDR? I'm trying to find something I'm happy. (Boy is it nice to have good DTM)


This is what I’m using. I’m on v113, because there’s no expiration. The newer betas eventually expire.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

These look good too.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> This is what I’m using. I’m on v113, because there’s no expiration. The newer betas eventually expire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm on 113 as well so I can use VideoProcessor. Thanks!


----------



## DekPM19

What are good hdmi cables to use to get the 18gbps needed for the 4k. I looked at Monoprice where is were all of my other cables came from. I am ordering the 5050ub to replace a 3500 that started getting lines in the picture.
Also I am outside of Savannah Ga doEd anybody know a calibrator in this area or travels through this area.
thanks
Allen


----------



## Luminated67

DekPM19 said:


> What are good hdmi cables to use to get the 18gbps needed for the 4k. I looked at Monoprice where is were all of my other cables came from. I am ordering the 5050ub to replace a 3500 that started getting lines in the picture.
> Also I am outside of Savannah Ga doEd anybody know a calibrator in this area or travels through this area.
> thanks
> Allen


Personally I would only buy an Optical HDMI cable if your required cable length is greater than 20ft, I used the ATBEZE brand and after 3 yrs of use it has never had an issue.


----------



## jibber951

deleted


----------



## jibber951

Kieran said:


> As an experiment, I would relax the lens shift a bit, so raise the image above where you want, then see if this still happens.
> Focus definitely moves the lens on any lens, but it should be moving only axially in/out relative to the image. However if you have shifted the lens to lower the image to the max, then the mechanical ability of the lens to move smoothly on it's focus axis may be affected. So, temporarily put the image close to the center of its vertical shift range, then try to focus and see if this abnormal shifting phenomenon is still happening. If it is, I'd say something's wrong. If the behavior goes away, then it may be normal and related to using max image/lens shift for your screen height.
> Post back with results this is interesting.


It's the extreme lens shift. I've tried it with a lot less lens shift and it doesn't happen then. All good. 

On another note: I've already exchanged the projector for a new one. The first one started flickering in Eco Mode. The retailer was super friendly and just exchanged it for a new one sealed in the box. However, the new one does the same. I've ran it in Medium / High lamp mode for the first ten hours, then switched it to Eco mode. After about one hour it started flickering as well (so much that i can easily record it with the phone camera). Switching back to Medium mode makes the flickering disappear immediately. 

I can't use the projector in anything but Eco mode. It sits directly above my head and anything but Eco mode is way to loud. 

Not sure where to go from here. I'm debating asking the retailer to take the projector back, keep the money, and send me an LS12000b (and a bill for the price difference) once they are available.


----------



## PixelPusher15

jibber951 said:


> It's the extreme lens shift. I've tried it with a lot less lens shift and it doesn't happen then. All good.
> 
> On another note: I've already exchanged the projector for a new one. The first one started flickering in Eco Mode. The retailer was super friendly and just exchanged it for a new one sealed in the box. However, the new one does the same. I've ran it in Medium / High lamp mode for the first ten hours, then switched it to Eco mode. After about one hour it started flickering as well (so much that i can easily record it with the phone camera). Switching back to Medium mode makes the flickering disappear immediately.
> 
> I can't use the projector in anything but Eco mode. It sits directly above my head and anything but Eco mode is way to loud.
> 
> Not sure where to go from here. I'm debating asking the retailer to take the projector back, keep the money, and send me an LS12000b (and a bill for the price difference) once they are available.


Run it on high for at least another 10 hours straight. Many recommend running a projector on full lamp for the first 100 hours to prevent flicker. If you’ve switched off high in under 10 hours then that’s probably the reason.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

jibber951 said:


> It's the extreme lens shift. I've tried it with a lot less lens shift and it doesn't happen then. All good.
> 
> On another note: I've already exchanged the projector for a new one. The first one started flickering in Eco Mode. The retailer was super friendly and just exchanged it for a new one sealed in the box. However, the new one does the same. I've ran it in Medium / High lamp mode for the first ten hours, then switched it to Eco mode. After about one hour it started flickering as well (so much that i can easily record it with the phone camera). Switching back to Medium mode makes the flickering disappear immediately.
> 
> I can't use the projector in anything but Eco mode. It sits directly above my head and anything but Eco mode is way to loud.
> 
> Not sure where to go from here. I'm debating asking the retailer to take the projector back, keep the money, and send me an LS12000b (and a bill for the price difference) once they are available.


There is no audible difference in fan noise between eco and medium. My projector is also directly above head, and using a umik and REW to measure noise floor, the difference is negligible, and running in medium will stop flickering.
It is NOT the projector at fault, but the lamp eco mode design.
I think Eco mode is only available so the projector companies can inflate their lamp life marketing.
There are many reports of this problem, and people using eco are asking for lamp problems.
You can exchange the projector from here to kingdom come, but problem will probably come back in any replacement you get.
Either go for laser or use medium.


----------



## Enchy

pottscb said:


> Fancy! My setup is similar but my projector fires through a porthole from a 75 sq/ft utility closet which heats up during the summer running the pj, the closet door opens to the AC return vent so I can cook it off in 60 sec if needed but I usually don’t worry about it. Been meaning to divert an AC vent to that closet for years but it never gets above 80 deg.


Yeah that's about the size of my closet too. It's a little stairwell crawlspace. I don't have AC going directly into it, but I have a passive vent from my theater going into the closet, and an AC infinity fan in the wall on the opposite side that pulls hot air out of the room. Only been using it for a few days now but the room doesn't really get above 88 or so with a PS5 running and the projector on high.



biglen said:


> Is that pushing, or pulling the hot air?


It's pulling the hot air away from the projector.


----------



## sambow87

I’ve had the 5050 and my oppo 203 for quite a few years. For those that use the ub9000, does the tone mapping make a big difference compared to the epsons hdr slider? Worth moving to the 9000 over the oppo203?


----------



## PixelPusher15

sambow87 said:


> I’ve had the 5050 and my oppo 203 for quite a few years. For those that use the ub9000, does the tone mapping make a big difference compared to the epsons hdr slider? Worth moving to the 9000 over the oppo203?


Do you need all the other features of the UB9000 vs something like the UB420? At least for UHD discs I'm not sure there's an advantage if you are just outputting everything via HDMI.


----------



## sambow87

Don’t really need anything extra, i thought the ub9000 can tonemap to 350 nite via the basic luminance projector setting that the 420 doesn’t have.


----------



## PixelPusher15

sambow87 said:


> Don’t really need anything extra, i thought the ub9000 can tonemap to 350 nite via the basic luminance projector setting that the 420 doesn’t have.


The 420 does have the basic luminance setting. I thought about taking a photo but I found a YouTube video that shows it:


----------



## jibber951

Tsunamijhoe said:


> There is no audible difference in fan noise between eco and medium. My projector is also directly above head, and using a umik and REW to measure noise floor, the difference is negligible, and running in medium will stop flickering.
> It is NOT the projector at fault, but the lamp eco mode design.
> I think Eco mode is only available so the projector companies can inflate their lamp life marketing.
> There are many reports of this problem, and people using eco are asking for lamp problems.
> You can exchange the projector from here to kingdom come, but problem will probably come back in any replacement you get.
> Either go for laser or use medium.


That’s simply not true. There is a very audible difference in fan noise between medium and eco. The eco mode exists, it even has a dB rating in the projectors specs sheet. I should be able to use it, and if that’s not possible then it’s a badly designed / marketed product. It’s there, telling the customer not to use it because then the image will flicker is stupid.

You don’t buy a car and get told not to use the 1st gear because it doesn’t work as advertised when using the 1st gear.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

jibber951 said:


> That’s simply not true. There is a very audible difference in fan noise between medium and eco. The eco mode exists, it even has a dB rating in the projectors specs sheet. I should be able to use it, and if that’s not possible then it’s a badly designed / marketed product. It’s there, telling the customer not to use it because then the image will flicker is stupid.
> 
> You don’t buy a car and get told not to use the 1st gear because it doesn’t work as advertised when using the 1st gear.


I agree, marketing is lying and the eco mode is badly designed,but such is the real world. The lamp also doesnt last what they advertise,again a lot of variables.
I think they only advertise the eco mode to be able to spec the projector as being "green" with lower power use in eco.
This has been true on all projctors i have had..
The eco mode stink in terms of lamp life.. My Sony was so bad with flickering,and i have only used medium on my epson,and no flickering..
My noisefloor might be higher than yours,as i have no hearable difference in fan speed on my unit,i can measure a 2db variance,but i cant hear the difference.. And again, the spec sheets does NOT pertain to real world usage.. They measure that **** in controlled environments and maybe even anechoic chambers with a set distance. you might have a ceiling that muffles fan speed,or the opposite,so many variables to account for.


----------



## sambow87

PixelPusher15 said:


> The 420 does have the basic luminance setting. I thought about taking a photo but I found a YouTube video that shows it:


interesting, I’m guessing firmware was updated to support? I guess the question still stands for anyone with the 420/820/9000, how does the tone mapping compare vs adjusting the hdr slider?


----------



## PixelPusher15

sambow87 said:


> interesting, I’m guessing firmware was updated to support? I guess the question still stands for anyone with the 420/820/9000, how does the tone mapping compare vs adjusting the hdr slider?


I use it to tone map HDR to SDR2020. I find it just works for this. You rarely, if ever, get a bad image. using the slider is hit or miss sometimes. I find that with some content I wish I had two sliders on the 5050, one for the darker scenes and one for brighter scenes. I'm pretty sure this could be overcome by setting up memory presets for HDR mastered at 1000, 2000, 4000 and 10000 nits and then use the slider for fine tuning but oh my gosh that's not what I want to be doing for each movie. The Panny's tone mapping really gets you close though. I'm not sure how well the Oppo works since I've never owned one but I can't see you being unsatisfied with a Panasonic player.

I've graduated to the next level now though, I didn't think I would. I've built a madVR HTPC with a capture card for VideoProcessor that takes in my AppleTV4K and will tone map all my streaming sources. I also will use madVR for disc rips.


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> I use it to tone map HDR to SDR2020. I find it just works for this. You rarely, if ever, get a bad image. using the slider is hit or miss sometimes. I find that with some content I wish I had two sliders on the 5050, one for the darker scenes and one for brighter scenes. I'm pretty sure this could be overcome by setting up memory presets for HDR mastered at 1000, 2000, 4000 and 10000 nits and then use the slider for fine tuning but oh my gosh that's not what I want to be doing for each movie. The Panny's tone mapping really gets you close though. I'm not sure how well the Oppo works since I've never owned one but I can't see you being unsatisfied with a Panasonic player.
> 
> I've graduated to the next level now though, I didn't think I would. I've built a madVR HTPC with a capture card for VideoProcessor that takes in my AppleTV4K and will tone map all my streaming sources. I also will use madVR for disc rips.


This is totally off topic, but I had no idea that madVR worked with captured sources. I wouldn't have sold my HTPC if I'd known that. What do the minimum specs look like for that, might have to build a new one. I've never looked into madVR because I don't want to rip disks, but if I can just have it process on the fly...


----------



## fredworld

Enchy said:


> This is totally off topic, but I had no idea that madVR worked with captured sources. I wouldn't have sold my HTPC if I'd known that. What do the minimum specs look like for that, might have to build a new one. I've never looked into madVR because I don't want to rip disks, but if I can just have it process on the fly...


There are a number of *madVR theads* that might also help.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> This is totally off topic, but I had no idea that madVR worked with captured sources. I wouldn't have sold my HTPC if I'd known that. What do the minimum specs look like for that, might have to build a new one. I've never looked into madVR because I don't want to rip disks, but if I can just have it process on the fly...











VideoProcessor


VideoProcessor turns a computer into a 4k HDR capable live video processor by connecting a video capture card to a renderer and taking care of details such as conversion, timing and HDR metadata. This allows advanced renderers to do things like 3D LUT, HDR tone mapping, scaling, deinterlacing...




www.avsforum.com





I'm not the best tech support guy for telling you what you need for specs but from what I've read any new PC with a capable GPU will be plenty. The tricky part is that whole GPU thing. A 1660 Super is I believe the lowest recommendation for HDR tonemapping nowadays. The one important piece with VideoProcessor and the capture card is that only the BlackMagic DeckLink cards are supported as of now. The DeckLink Mini 4K can handle up to 4K30 and it costs $200. The DeckLink Quad 4K can do 4K60 but it's $550. I tried hunting for other ways to do 4K60 with other capture cards but there's just nothing out there that will work well. I decided to use my Vertex2 to downscale 4K60 to 1080p60 and then have the AppleTV just frame rate and range match everything. I don't watch much 4K60 stuff other than YouTube so I don't really care about 4K60. This way I can let my ATV4K just do its thing and I get smooth menus. Some are limiting their device to 24 or 30hz but I don't like it. 

Oh, I guess the other consideration is making sure you have a motherboard that can support 20 PCI lanes. 16x for the GPU and 4x for the capture card. If you go with the DeckLink Quad then it needs a full PCIe slot but it appears to work fine while only having 4x lanes allocated to it...but don't quote me on that.


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> VideoProcessor
> 
> 
> VideoProcessor turns a computer into a 4k HDR capable live video processor by connecting a video capture card to a renderer and taking care of details such as conversion, timing and HDR metadata. This allows advanced renderers to do things like 3D LUT, HDR tone mapping, scaling, deinterlacing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not the best tech support guy for telling you what you need for specs but from what I've read any new PC with a capable GPU will be plenty. The tricky part is that whole GPU thing. A 1660 Super is I believe the lowest recommendation for HDR tonemapping nowadays. The one important piece with VideoProcessor and the capture card is that only the BlackMagic DeckLink cards are supported as of now. The DeckLink Mini 4K can handle up to 4K30 and it costs $200. The DeckLink Quad 4K can do 4K60 but it's $550. I tried hunting for other ways to do 4K60 with other capture cards but there's just nothing out there that will work well. I decided to use my Vertex2 to downscale 4K60 to 1080p60 and then have the AppleTV just frame rate and range match everything. I don't watch much 4K60 stuff other than YouTube so I don't really care about 4K60. This way I can let my ATV4K just do its thing and I get smooth menus. Some are limiting their device to 24 or 30hz but I don't like it.
> 
> Oh, I guess the other consideration is making sure you have a motherboard that can support 20 PCI lanes. 16x for the GPU and 4x for the capture card. If you go with the DeckLink Quad then it needs a full PCIe slot but it appears to work fine while only having 4x lanes allocated to it...but don't quote me on that.


Awesome tyvm. I'll take a look at that thread.

Bummer only DeckLinks work with that software. Elgatos are so much cheaper and offer outboard options.


----------



## DekPM19

Luminated67 said:


> Personally I would only buy an Optical HDMI cable if your required cable length is greater than 20ft, I used the ATBEZE brand and after 3 yrs of use it has never had an issue.


 Thank you
Allen


----------



## vic1250

jibber951 said:


> hat’s simply not true. There is a very audible difference in fan noise between medium and eco. The eco mode exists, it even has a dB rating in the projectors specs sheet. I should be able to use it, and if that’s not possible then it’s a badly designed / marketed product. It’s there, telling the customer not to use it because then the image will flicker is stupid.


My thoughts exactly. I have history on the subject as well. This is how it went with my last 5 Epsons:
1 - bulb died with no flicker at 1300hours all in Eco
2- 300 hours no problems in Eco
3 - mixed usage Eco/High no problems yet
4 - 100 hours after some time in high, no problems
5 - Bulb starts flickering at 200h after running in High for the first 10-15hours. It kept switching to high when the flickering started and watched some more hours in high. At 600h the flickering was completely gone and from there I was only using Eco until 1100h. All good, but would I wait for it again to clear out after 400hours? Not practical at all.

Why change the whole projector because of a flickering bulb? Here the current warranty for the bulb is 36months or 3000hours.A wat of warranty swaps are expected....


----------



## Alaric

sambow87 said:


> interesting, I’m guessing firmware was updated to support? I guess the question still stands for anyone with the 420/820/9000, how does the tone mapping compare vs adjusting the hdr slider?


I've a 420 and The Panasonics were by FAR the best combo with this projector. I rarely touch the slider for my HDR accurate mode, though it was on 2 because of the light loss from using the filter. I only occasionally hit difficulties with the odd film. Incredibles 2 on UHD for example would just eat light. But 99% of my HDR UHD content is great with that combo.

It will do Netflix, maybe a couple of others, but i found the apps limiting, forget what quite the issue was, might be forced 60Hz or lacking Atmos - I now use an ATV with Vertex for LLDV (Netflix/Disney) (along with Sony 800x2 DV UHDs) and a Firestick 4K for Prime via a different input for HDR/SDR streaming!


----------



## jibber951

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I agree, marketing is lying and the eco mode is badly designed,but such is the real world. The lamp also doesnt last what they advertise,again a lot of variables.
> I think they only advertise the eco mode to be able to spec the projector as being "green" with lower power use in eco.
> This has been true on all projctors i have had..
> The eco mode stink in terms of lamp life.. My Sony was so bad with flickering,and i have only used medium on my epson,and no flickering..
> My noisefloor might be higher than yours,as i have no hearable difference in fan speed on my unit,i can measure a 2db variance,but i cant hear the difference.. And again, the spec sheets does NOT pertain to real world usage.. They measure that **** in controlled environments and maybe even anechoic chambers with a set distance. you might have a ceiling that muffles fan speed,or the opposite,so many variables to account for.


The retailer has opened a case with Epson. Even Epson admitted that these traditional lamp based projectors are not made for Eco Mode, and that it might be possible to fix with a lamp replacement, or possible to prevent it from happening by running the Projector for an extended period of time in medium / high mode, but the flickering might always come back.

They agreed to let me return it, and will send me an LS12000b once they are available.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

jibber951 said:


> The retailer has opened a case with Epson. Even Epson admitted that these traditional lamp based projectors are not made for Eco Mode, and that it might be possible to fix with a lamp replacement, or possible to prevent it from happening by running the Projector for an extended period of time in medium / high mode, but the flickering might always come back.
> 
> They agreed to let me return it, and will send me an LS12000b once they are available.


Surprised Epson admitted it, as we could never get Sony to acknowledge it was a problem,they just kept sending me new lamps. You could have saved yourself some trouble if you had done a little research beforehand though,as there are tonnes of evidence to this problem as it spans many brands.
I will keep buying lamp based though if they are as good as the tw9400/6050ub as you can't change the laser when it nears end of life,and i use my projector 8-14hrs a day so i would have to recycle a working unit just because the light source cant be changed.. Similar problem to electric cars in need of battery replacements which are so expensive it is cheaper to blow the car up as the Fins have done 
I do fear the manufacturers will all stop making lamp based projectors and go laser/led in their different tiers..


----------



## BlueMan Jones

jibber951 said:


> The retailer has opened a case with Epson. Even Epson admitted that these traditional lamp based projectors are not made for Eco Mode, and that it might be possible to fix with a lamp replacement, or possible to prevent it from happening by running the Projector for an extended period of time in medium / high mode, but the flickering might always come back.
> 
> They agreed to let me return it, and will send me an LS12000b once they are available.


The 12000 is at least a grand over the TW9400 (6050UB). Epson is just going to spot you that or do you have to pay the extra?


----------



## vic1250

Epson having said that....I wonder if the 3 power levels have something to do with that problem? What about if the 6050s Eco mode is more Eco than other models missing the Mid mode?
I have two older Epson still with me TW5000/TW5500, and I watch both in Eco all the time. One is 1700h, the other is 1100h and no a hint of a problem with either of them?
I know bulb is different, but I'm having flicker in all kinds of UHP bulbs. What is the chance of Eco to be something in between of Eco/Mid in other models having less problems?


----------



## Enchy

I bought mine used with about 350 hours on the bulb. Ran Eco for the 600 hours I've put on it until this week when I started running high. Never ran into any flicker issues with Eco.


----------



## vic1250

Friend of mine got the flicker at around 100hours and he would run in for 10min at high and switch back to Eco to watch. I did the same with mine. This worked....most of the time.


----------



## rekbones

Flicker is an issue with any of the UHP lamps but not always. My refurbed 5050 now has 5000hrs on the lamp it came with and has run 99% in ECO and on a rare occasion would flicker a little for 5 min during warmup. It hasn't even dimed much but now getting the lamp warning, I have a spare but still debating about replacing it. I still watch SDR in digital cinema. So proof some lamps work fine in ECO but do agree it may not be the norm.


----------



## jibber951

BlueMan Jones said:


> The 12000 is at least a grand over the TW9400 (6050UB). Epson is just going to spot you that or do you have to pay the extra?


I wish. Haha!

The retailer will send me an LS12000b and a bill for the price difference. He did however give me a 10% discount on the normal retail price of the 12000b.

PS: It‘s much more than a grand. I‘m in Switzerland (1chf = 1.07$). TW9400 is chf2.500.- (cheapest price, i‘ve paid chf2.700.-), and the LS12000b is chf5.411.- (cheapest price, i‘m paying chf4.869.- with 10% discount).

That‘s two grand more than the TW9400.


----------



## jibber951

vic1250 said:


> Epson having said that....I wonder if the 3 power levels have something to do with that problem? What about if the 6050s Eco mode is more Eco than other models missing the Mid mode?
> I have two older Epson still with me TW5000/TW5500, and I watch both in Eco all the time. One is 1700h, the other is 1100h and no a hint of a problem with either of them?
> I know bulb is different, but I'm having flicker in all kinds of UHP bulbs. What is the chance of Eco to be something in between of Eco/Mid in other models having less problems?


I can only say what i‘ve been told Epsons statement was. The retailer i bought from took care of the correspondence with them.

Epson apparently said that Eco mode is difficult in all lamp based projectors. They advised the same thing everyone says (what i‘ve also figured out from my own readings): Run the projector in medium / high for several hours to burn in / break in the lamp. And everytime it flickers, again in medium / high for a few hours.

They basically said it‘s a general issue to dim a projector lamp as much as eco mode does. And that the flickering might always come back.

For me personally it happened with two brand new sealed in the box TW9400. I‘ve ran the 2nd one on medium / high for the first ten hours. Both had the same flickering in eco mode, the 2nd one was actually even worse.

Considering that i wanted to use the projector in eco mode, they‘ve displayed some good will and let me return both projectors.

I think it happens in many lamp based projectors. My old Infocus IN3118HD did the same in eco mode… but only started doing so after 1500 lamp hours.


----------



## pottscb

Ugh, I’m envious of this situation. I dabbled in HTPC 15 yrs ago when it was much more of a crap-shoot and swore I’d never again do it. In your opinion, would this setup be worth it if I don’t do movie rips (everything through the capture card)? It would be a great deal of trouble but 1/4 price of the MadVREnvy/Lumagen Pro w/DTM…is it worth the trouble? One could make a killing selling these if you could make a quality device W/capture card that works well and sell it for 1/2 the price of Envy/Lumagen…make the end user install the software to ensure no licensing issues (and r work out the licensing)….I’d buy the first one! I’m afraid I’ll throw the parts together and have $#*?sandwich.


----------



## vic1250

jibber951 said:


> For me personally it happened with two brand new sealed in the box TW9400. I‘ve ran the 2nd one on medium / high for the first ten hours. Both had the same flickering in eco mode, the 2nd one was actually even worse.


It definitely sounds to me that Epson with a 3 power levels might have a lower voltage on the bulb in Eco than others. This is just too much of a coincidence to me. And honestly I wonder if I would buy another one of those considering I plan on using only Eco because of the massive noise raise in high.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

vic1250 said:


> It definitely sounds to me that Epson with a 3 power levels might have a lower voltage on the bulb in Eco than others. This is just too much of a coincidence to me. And honestly I wonder if I would buy another one of those considering I plan on using only Eco because of the massive noise raise in high.


Medium is the best of both worlds though.. You must be extremely sensitive to fan noise,and i thought i was sensitive..
My projector hangs 1,3m above my head,and i can barely hear the fan in medium,and when content is playing i can't hear it at all. High sounds like a jet engine though,but i only use high when watching 3D which is not that often anymore.. Also, in medium i have not experienced a single flicker on now my second lamp.. First lamp 1800hrs (saved as backup), current lamp just past 3000hrs and still going strong.. It hasn't even dimmed that much yet,so this is a really good sign.. And with the lamps so cheap i don't understand why people would even consider using eco.

But you should know,it isn't just the Epson,but most if not all lamp based brands that can have this problem,so buying a different brand won't necessarily save you from flickering..


----------



## pottscb

jibber951 said:


> That’s simply not true. There is a very audible difference in fan noise between medium and eco. The eco mode exists, it even has a dB rating in the projectors specs sheet. I should be able to use it, and if that’s not possible then it’s a badly designed / marketed product. It’s there, telling the customer not to use it because then the image will flicker is stupid.
> 
> You don’t buy a car and get told not to use the 1st gear because it doesn’t work as advertised when using the 1st gear.


This would be more like the manufacturer telling you not to tow anything with your new truck until the 10,000 mi breakin was complete (which they still do this) as I thought the workaround was just to not use eco for the first several hundred hours to maintain a consistent arc, then it should be OK? I know you shouldn’t have to but try building a hush box or at least a partition between you and the pj. Also, sound decreases exponentially with distance, even moving your chair/couch 1ft. further away from pj (in in another direction where sound doesn’t reflect as badly) could make the difference on a level of sound you can bear.(for the first couple hundred hours in medium/high lamp)


----------



## Orwellflash

PixelPusher15 said:


> I use it to tone map HDR to SDR2020. I find it just works for this. You rarely, if ever, get a bad image. using the slider is hit or miss sometimes. I find that with some content I wish I had two sliders on the 5050, one for the darker scenes and one for brighter scenes. I'm pretty sure this could be overcome by setting up memory presets for HDR mastered at 1000, 2000, 4000 and 10000 nits and then use the slider for fine tuning but oh my gosh that's not what I want to be doing for each movie. The Panny's tone mapping really gets you close though. I'm not sure how well the Oppo works since I've never owned one but I can't see you being unsatisfied with a Panasonic player.
> 
> I've graduated to the next level now though, I didn't think I would. I've built a madVR HTPC with a capture card for VideoProcessor that takes in my AppleTV4K and will tone map all my streaming sources. I also will use madVR for disc rips.


Wow on HTPC madVR! Too busy right now, but will look into that when I have time. What is your default Epson slider setting when you are going with the Panasonic setting?


----------



## BlueMan Jones

vic1250 said:


> It definitely sounds to me that Epson with a 3 power levels might have a lower voltage on the bulb in Eco than others. This is just too much of a coincidence to me. And honestly I wonder if I would buy another one of those considering I plan on using only Eco because of the massive noise raise in high.


I can watch a movie like "A Quiet Place" and the fan noise in Medium is pretty much unnoticeable on the quiet parts unless I put my ear within a few inches of the projector. Eco and High aren't your only options.


----------



## DJ KOLA

PixelPusher15 said:


> Run it on high for at least another 10 hours straight. Many recommend running a projector on full lamp for the first 100 hours to prevent flicker. If you’ve switched off high in under 10 hours then that’s probably the reason.


Thanks for the advice Andy. I‘ve been running it on medium since I got the 5050 a couple of weeks ago and I’m already at 60 hours. I’m going to change to high for a while if that is recommended to help with any potential future flickering.


----------



## hms17B

jibber951 said:


> That’s simply not true. There is a very audible difference in fan noise between medium and eco. The eco mode exists, it even has a dB rating in the projectors specs sheet. I should be able to use it, and if that’s not possible then it’s a badly designed / marketed product. It’s there, telling the customer not to use it because then the image will flicker is stupid.
> 
> You don’t buy a car and get told not to use the 1st gear because it doesn’t work as advertised when using the 1st gear.


Interesting. I've switched my 5050 back and forth between Eco and Medium and hear very little difference, at least once it's warmed up. High is way too loud, though, and I don't use that ever, except I did during the first 100 hours. I was trying SDR in Eco, but it didn't look any better to my eyes than Medium. So I'm just going to use Medium all the time and hopefully be safe.


----------



## Enchy

Just to join the chorus, I also couldn't hear a difference between medium and eco.


----------



## vic1250

I've seen at least 2 reviews that have different db measurements between eco and medium. But honestly most reviewer don't care about noise and also measure with some crappy noise meters who knows how. I don't even bother to measure mine despite having the proper equipment to. Btw many times the projector noise is barely visible over the noise floor of the room, but at the same time is terrible on the ear. Its the pitch that matters the most, as the noise is more broadly spread across the range and at the same time the projector's noise is cantered at 400-2khz for example where the human ear have the greatest sensitivity.
Also good to know is that some Epson projectors seems to have not the curves on chassis fan vs the bulb/ballast/lcd fans. So noise is not just 3 levels, but might depend on the color/brightness mode on top of that.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

vic1250 said:


> I've seen at least 2 reviews that have different db measurements between eco and medium. But honestly most reviewer don't care about noise and also measure with some crappy noise meters who knows how. I don't even bother to measure mine despite having the proper equipment to. Btw many times the projector noise is barely visible over the noise floor of the room, but at the same time is terrible on the ear. Its the pitch that matters the most, as the noise is more broadly spread across the range and at the same time the projector's noise is cantered at 400-2khz for example where the human ear have the greatest sensitivity.
> Also good to know is that some Epson projectors seems to have not the curves on chassis fan vs the bulb/ballast/lcd fans. So noise is not just 3 levels, but might depend on the color/brightness mode on top of that.


I measured something like a 2db difference on my noise floor between eco and medium using REW and umik,but it fluctuated a bit but was never very much,and this could be other things the mic picked up, but i cannot for the life of me hear a difference like some users report,and the projector hangs directly above my head..
And i think of myself as very fan sensitive.. So much so i have replaced all fans in my 3 PC's with low noise ARCTIC fans as otherwise i would go insane working in my office where the servers and pc's are located.. You are right about the pitch though, just the slightest change in pitch can be the difference between acceptance and annoyance,its really weird..


----------



## hms17B

Consider ourselves fortunate if all we're hearing is fan noise. It could be voices.


----------



## DekPM19

I just ordered a 5050ub should be here Tuesday. I have a 120” screen now but I plan to upgrade it next year to a 135“, so my question is should I go ahead and set the 5050 up at the 135” throw distance now which is 17’11” to keep from moving it or set it up at the 120” which is two feet shorter at 15’11”?

Allen


----------



## fredworld

DekPM19 said:


> I just ordered a 5050ub should be here Tuesday. I have a 120” screen now but I plan to upgrade it next year to a 135“, so my question is should I go ahead and set the 5050 up at the 135” throw distance now which is 17’11” to keep from moving it or set it up at the 120” which is two feet shorter at 15’11”?
> 
> Allen


Presuming it's a 16:9 screen, it looks to me that the recommended throw distances overlap, according to my Epson 5050UB manual. I'd save some time and do one projector set up, especially if you're doing a ceiling mount (drilling, cutting drywall, etc.) and just choose the distance that's most convenient to install while still being within the throw distance for both. Am I missing something?


----------



## Enchy

DekPM19 said:


> I just ordered a 5050ub should be here Tuesday. I have a 120” screen now but I plan to upgrade it next year to a 135“, so my question is should I go ahead and set the 5050 up at the 135” throw distance now which is 17’11” to keep from moving it or set it up at the 120” which is two feet shorter at 15’11”?
> 
> Allen


The closest you can set the projector for a 135" 16:9 screen is 13'3" from lens to screen. You get more light output the closer the projector is to the screen:


----------



## rupedogg24

DekPM19 said:


> I just ordered a 5050ub should be here Tuesday. I have a 120” screen now but I plan to upgrade it next year to a 135“, so my question is should I go ahead and set the 5050 up at the 135” throw distance now which is 17’11” to keep from moving it or set it up at the 120” which is two feet shorter at 15’11”?
> 
> Allen


I believe the closer you are the more light output. Not an expert but just figured less distance for secondary light interference. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

DekPM19 said:


> I just ordered a 5050ub should be here Tuesday. I have a 120” screen now but I plan to upgrade it next year to a 135“, so my question is should I go ahead and set the 5050 up at the 135” throw distance now which is 17’11” to keep from moving it or set it up at the 120” which is two feet shorter at 15’11”?
> 
> Allen





Enchy said:


> The closest you can set the projector for a 135" 16:9 screen is 13'3" from lens to screen. You get more light output the closer the projector is to the screen:
> 
> View attachment 3232235





rupedogg24 said:


> I believe the closer you are the more light output. Not an expert but just figured less distance for secondary light interference.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


The Epson 5050/6050 are generally considered as light cannons. I wouldn't worry about dimmer images. The unit has plenty of features for adjusting light output. I would choose the position that fits the room best while maintaining the shortest distance possible for 135" that will still accommodate a 120" screen. (Unless you really want to install the PJ twice.)


----------



## DekPM19

Thank y’all for the feed back I was basing it off of projector central recorded throw distance. I don’t know enough to know good or bad but my Epson 3500 that I am replacing is based off of the projector central throw chart and have never had a problem. The room is 21’ deep so setting it up at 17’11” isn’t a problem and it does move it further behind my chairs. Yea I only want to install it once that is why I want to go ahead and set it up for the 135” and yes it will be a 16x9 ratio.
Thanks
Allen
i will give a shout out to Dreamedia they did me right on the projector price and shipping.
Kellen at Dreamedia


----------



## NxNW

How do you get a 6050 these days? Specifically in the Pacific Northwest?


----------



## fredworld

NxNW said:


> How do you get a 6050 these days? Specifically in the Pacific Northwest?


Have you tried the Epson site's *Where to Buy locator*?


----------



## NxNW

I did. And promptly came here instead.

(example: that site recommended magnolia hi fi in Kent. Um.. )


----------



## Enchy

NxNW said:


> I did. And promptly came here instead.
> 
> (example: that site recommended magnolia hi fi in Kent. Um.. )


I've heard good things about Madrona Digital. I think they operate out of Bellevue.


----------



## NxNW

Ok that works, thank you.

Just to spell it out, a regular person cannot buy a 6050 direct?


----------



## Enchy

NxNW said:


> Ok that works, thank you.
> 
> Just to spell it out, a regular person cannot buy a 6050 direct?


The only place (edit: that I'm aware of) you can buy it without going through a dealer is Best Buy Magnolia


----------



## fredworld

NxNW said:


> Ok that works, thank you.
> 
> Just to spell it out, a regular person cannot buy a 6050 direct?





Enchy said:


> The only place (edit: that I'm aware of) you can buy it without going through a dealer is Best Buy Magnolia


Or keep an eye on the *Epson Clearance list* on their site. Once in a while a 5050 or 6050 comes up.


----------



## hms17B

DekPM19 said:


> Thank y’all for the feed back I was basing it off of projector central recorded throw distance. I don’t know enough to know good or bad but my Epson 3500 that I am replacing is based off of the projector central throw chart and have never had a problem. The room is 21’ deep so setting it up at 17’11” isn’t a problem and it does move it further behind my chairs. Yea I only want to install it once that is why I want to go ahead and set it up for the 135” and yes it will be a 16x9 ratio.
> Thanks
> Allen
> i will give a shout out to Dreamedia they did me right on the projector price and shipping.
> Kellen at Dreamedia


Get the 5050 before installing the mount. Try it out at both image sizes. Pick a distance that works for both, but best for 135". Then install it there.


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## NxNW

Ok, good tips there, thanks all.


----------



## Michaeldef

NxNW said:


> How do you get a 6050 these days? Specifically in the Pacific Northwest?


Just received a 6050 refurb from Safe and Sound, flat out stunning no issues at all, but be forewarned if you have an old hdmi cable you def need a new 4k cable


----------



## fredworld

Michaeldef said:


> Just received a 6050 refurb from Safe and Sound, flat out stunning no issues at all, but be forewarned if you have an old hdmi cable you def need a new 4k cable


Yup! You can buy with confidence from *Safe and sound*. The reps are very customer friendly, knowledgeable and their 30 day return policy is a bonus. Most of my latest equipment purchases have been from them.


----------



## DekPM19

hms17B said:


> Get the 5050 before installing the mount. Try it out at both image sizes. Pick a distance that works for both, but best for 135". Then install it there.


Yea that is my plan to just put it for the 135‘ I will probably be a little closer because of the way the over head studs run. I use a 1” board Screwed into my studs with my Mount in the center of it.


----------



## No Look

This is a pretty good thread y'all got going on here! I appear to be in lock step with the last couple of pages, with regard to room size, and projector placement.. 
My theater room is also 21 long and 11.5 wide, with a vaulted ceiling running long ways.. The screen wall is 8'4" high.. 
I just finished up spray painting MM's Black Flame, and am now moving on to mounting my 6050.. (Which I also purchased from MM a few months back)
The projector will be 16.5 from the screen wall, with floor to center lens at about 8'.. Will use vertical lens shift to bring the image down.. 
Shooting for 130 to 135 diagonal, which will be determined by just how much floor space the L&R mains (Axiom M-80's) take up.. Which will also be determined after they are fired up and moved about for best sound.. 
And yes, it did/does require a bit of head scratching to figure out the best location for the projector.. This thread helped by confirming a lot of the same issues and debates I was having.. 
Thanks..


----------



## NxNW

Mississippi man sells projectors too?

Anyway back to Safe and Sound: they are selling the refurb 6050 without the mount or spare bulb. Doesn't this effectively make it the same price as a regular 6050 that has had those accessories removed from the bundle? Has this been a normal practice for all resellers over the years? I've only just recently begun to pay attention..


----------



## No Look

NxNW said:


> Mississippi man sells projectors too?
> 
> Anyway back to Safe and Sound: they are selling the refurb 6050 without the mount or spare bulb. Doesn't this effectively make it the same price as a regular 6050 that has had those accessories removed from the bundle? Has this been a normal practice for all resellers over the years? I've only just recently begun to pay attention..


NxNW Yes, he does.. And much more.. As for the refurb pricing, epson's site doesn't have any 6050's currently listed (that I could find).. But, I'm pretty sure Maurice has what your looking for, and at a great price.. 👍


----------



## Viche

Enchy said:


> Yeah that's about the size of my closet too. It's a little stairwell crawlspace. I don't have AC going directly into it, but I have a passive vent from my theater going into the closet, and an AC infinity fan in the wall on the opposite side that pulls hot air out of the room. Only been using it for a few days now but the room doesn't really get above 88 or so with a PS5 running and the projector on high.
> 
> 
> 
> It's pulling the hot air away from the projector.


 is the front of that project shelf sealed in with some sort of glass that prevents noise and air from escaping in the front?


----------



## Enchy

Viche said:


> is the front of that project shelf sealed in with some sort of glass that prevents noise and air from escaping in the front?


Yes. I bought a 10mm 12x12 port window from home theater glass.


----------



## Michaeldef

NxNW said:


> Mississippi man sells projectors too?
> 
> Anyway back to Safe and Sound: they are selling the refurb 6050 without the mount or spare bulb. Doesn't this effectively make it the same price as a regular 6050 that has had those accessories removed from the bundle? Has this been a normal practice for all resellers over the years? I've only just recently begun to pay attention..


And 3 Year Warranty


----------



## No Look

Michaeldef said:


> And 3 Year Warranty


Yes, with 3 yr warranty.. Mine came direct from Epson, with all the accessories.. Bulb, ceiling mount, back cover, etc.. Double boxed by Epson.. And, at a great price! Just sayin...


----------



## HalfManHalfGod

Just got a 5050 yesterday and in the process of setting it up. I've measured out my throw distance for a 120" screen at 11' 9 7/8" is the minimum. I'm currently at 12' 4" from lens to screen and the zoom is not even close to filling up my screen. Is there another option that i'm missing?


----------



## NxNW

I'm curious to see how this resolves. 

How did you measure the distance from the lens to the screen? Physical tape measure along ceiling? Laser 'tape measure' to some point on the screen?

If projector is mounted high, you're measuring to top edge of screen, not center or bottom edge, right?


----------



## HalfManHalfGod

With a tape measure along the ceiling. My projector is mounted flush with the ceiling. My basement ceiling is not very high.

I'm measuring from top of the screen straight to the lens.


----------



## NxNW

Hmm. I got nothin. Just spitballing, triple check the basics, read that measuring tape again, make super sure you actually ran the zoom control all the way to its limit, make sure any offset adjustments you have made arent limiting the usable zoom range, check aspect ratio controls, that sort of basic stuff.


----------



## HalfManHalfGod

Thanks for the ideas NxNW, I've triple checked throw distance, adjusted lens shift, focus, basically anything I could think of. I'm assuming the lens focus/zoom/shift pattern is the correct aspect ratio...

Zoom problem is not even the biggest issue I found. Upon inspecting the lens I noticed some oddities to say the least. Looks like a lens coating of some sort was wiped off!? Looks even worse with light projecting through it, tons of scratches and micro scratches. See attachments.


----------



## NxNW

Looks like a dog licked it!

Good luck getting it set up. Sucks not being able to just sit down and watch it on day 1 but eventually you'll get it sorted. 

Now Ill step back and let the experts weigh in..


----------



## HalfManHalfGod

Crazy you say that, upon opening the box at the store to inspect the unit there was dog hair all over the chassis.


----------



## fredworld

HalfManHalfGod said:


> Crazy you say that, upon opening the box at the store to inspect the unit there was dog hair all over the chassis.


I would seriously consider telling the vendor and request returning the unit. If they say you have to go through Epson, I'd insist that it's not my problem and want it replaced.


----------



## HalfManHalfGod

I basically have 2 options.

1) Return the until I have for a full refund and wait for a new unit to come in stock and pay full price.
2) Request a warranty refurb unit from epson.

I'll contact my vendor today to see if there is another option.


----------



## ProcyonOne

My 5050 just arrived and I'm upgrading from an 8350. Can anyone please recommend a good HDMI cable to connect to my receiver? The distance would be in the 20-40 foot range depending if I go through the wall or not. It seems that every single cable on AZ and Monoprice has some bad reviews and mentions features and resolutions not being supported as advertised. . .Much appreciate your suggestion. Thank you.


----------



## Kieran

ProcyonOne said:


> My 5050 just arrived and I'm upgrading from an 8350. Can anyone please recommend a good HDMI cable to connect to my receiver? The distance would be in the 20-40 foot range depending if I go through the wall or not. It seems that every single cable on AZ and Monoprice has some bad reviews and mentions features and resolutions not being supported as advertised. . .Much appreciate your suggestion. Thank you.


Not the one I use, but HDFury backs and sells this:








HDMI 8K Fiber 60ft/20m | HDFury.com | Connect and Fix everything in HDMI


This set of always working HDMI fiber cables includes: 1x HDMI2.1 Fiber cable Tested and Confirmed for 1500MHz/48Gbps 60ft/20m in length CL3 rating for in wall installation No packaging / Bulk condition




hdfury.com


----------



## fredworld

ProcyonOne said:


> My 5050 just arrived and I'm upgrading from an 8350. Can anyone please recommend a good HDMI cable to connect to my receiver? The distance would be in the 20-40 foot range depending if I go through the wall or not. It seems that every single cable on AZ and Monoprice has some bad reviews and mentions features and resolutions not being supported as advertised. . .Much appreciate your suggestion. Thank you.


If you need a run longer than 15' then be sure to get an active cable.
*Blue Jeans* or *MyCableMart* are my preferences.


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> If you need a run longer than 15' then be sure to get an active cable.
> *Blue Jeans* or *MyCableMart* are my preferences.


I think fiber HDMI does not need to be "active" for runs up to about 50 feet? Most fiber HDMI cables in the 10m range are not active, and many are certified 4k60/4:4:4
Going from memory here, someone correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## rekbones

Kieran said:


> I think fiber HDMI does not need to be "active" for runs up to about 50 feet? Most fiber HDMI cables in the 10m range are not active, and many are certified 4k60/4:4:4
> Going from memory here, someone correct me if I'm wrong.


All fiber cables are active and directional. Glass doesn't conduct electricity so the signal needs to be converted to light then back to digital at the other end. Active solid conductor cables (also directional) are OK up to 25' or so but I would go with fiber for anything over that.


----------



## Kieran

rekbones said:


> All fiber cables are active and directional. Glass doesn't conduct electricity so the signal needs to be converted to light then back to digital at the other end. Active solid conductor cables (also directional) are OK up to 25' or so but I would go with fiber for anything over that.


True, but the way I always thought of it, is that what is called an "active" HDMI cable actively BOOSTS the signal strength. A fiber cable only needs enough power to do the E/O transfrom. The signal doesn't necessarily get boosted. Most cable sources advertise "active fiber" and also just plain hdmi fiber cables, so I assume there's a difference. But maybe not? There's also copper hdmi cables that are "active" with a power boost and directionality.


----------



## vic1250

ProcyonOne said:


> My 5050 just arrived and I'm upgrading from an 8350.


Can you share how do the blacks compare on these? I still have a similar 7500ub (1:6000 native) and seems like it has better blacks than 6050.


----------



## kdawg2391044

Kieran said:


> True, but the way I always thought of it, is that what is called an "active" HDMI cable actively BOOSTS the signal strength. A fiber cable only needs enough power to do the E/O transfrom. The signal doesn't necessarily get boosted. Most cable sources advertise "active fiber" and also just plain hdmi fiber cables, so I assume there's a difference. But maybe not? There's also copper hdmi cables that are "active" with a power boost and directionality.


Active just means there is a chipset in the cable to boost the signal or transform it such as with a fiber cable (think something actively doing something in the cable to push the signal). Passive cables are only copper/wire (just a dumb wire and relies on the source to push the signal) and therefore limited on their total length before signal quality drops because of losses.

Sent from my IN2017 using Tapatalk


----------



## shinksma

HalfManHalfGod said:


> Just got a 5050 yesterday and in the process of setting it up. I've measured out my throw distance for a 120" screen at 11' 9 7/8" is the minimum. I'm currently at 12' 4" from lens to screen and the zoom is not even close to filling up my screen. Is there another option that i'm missing?


Stupid question on my part, perhaps:

when you say "120inch screen", do you mean diagonal or width, and is that the same as the system telling you throw distance vs size?

EDIT, to add:
The Projection Central site says 120" diagonal has min throw distance of 11'9" or so. The width of that screen would be just 105" (16x9). Almost looks like you have a 120" wide screen (~138" diagonal).


----------



## Enchy

I watched a 3D movie that had a ton of low light and dark scenes last night and it was, quite frankly, miserable. Well, until I turned off the auto iris. So yeah, PSA if you are getting a ton of crosstalk/blurry 3D in low light scenes, turn off auto iris.


----------



## HalfManHalfGod

shinksma said:


> Stupid question on my part, perhaps:
> 
> when you say "120inch screen", do you mean diagonal or width, and is that the same as the system telling you throw distance vs size?
> 
> EDIT, to add:
> The Projection Central site says 120" diagonal has min throw distance of 11'9" or so. The width of that screen would be just 105" (16x9). Almost looks like you have a 120" wide screen (~138" diagonal).



Thats 120" diagonal. From Epson throw calc. I should be able to hit 120" diag from 11' 9 7/8". I'm at 12'4" and not close to filling 120". My screen is most certainly 120" diagonal. Not sure whats going on with this unit.


----------



## biglen

Has anyone here gone from a PS4 to a PS4 Pro? I’m wondering if it’s worth upgrading to a Pro, or does the Epson do a great job upscaling the regular PS4?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

HalfManHalfGod said:


> Thats 120" diagonal. From Epson throw calc. I should be able to hit 120" diag from 11' 9 7/8". I'm at 12'4" and not close to filling 120". My screen is most certainly 120" diagonal. Not sure whats going on with this unit.
> 
> View attachment 3234445


I don’t remember where I got my numbers from, but when I was trying to figure out the distance needed for a 120” screen, I came up with 13’ 2”. That’s what distance made a 120” image for me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

biglen said:


> Has anyone here gone from a PS4 to a PS4 Pro? I’m wondering if it’s worth upgrading to a Pro, or does the Epson do a great job upscaling the regular PS4?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I upgraded back when it came out and found it very worthwhile. Less for the resolution bump and more for the 60fps options. I have a PS5 now though and if you're willing to do the virtual equivalent of camping out, it's worth trying to get one over a PS4 Pro. Especially since used PS4 Pros are selling for more than a PS5 Digital Edition.


----------



## biglen

Enchy said:


> I upgraded back when it came out and found it very worthwhile. Less for the resolution bump and more for the 60fps options. I have a PS5 now though and if you're willing to do the virtual equivalent of camping out, it's worth trying to get one over a PS4 Pro. Especially since used PS4 Pros are selling for more than a PS5 Digital Edition.


I read an article about the PS5, where the guy was saying he doesn’t feel like the PS5 is a big improvement over the PS4 Pro, and that instead of buying a PS5, it’s probably a better investment to get the PS4 Pro. I can get a used Pro near me for $250. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Sekosche

HalfManHalfGod said:


> Thats 120" diagonal. From Epson throw calc. I should be able to hit 120" diag from 11' 9 7/8". I'm at 12'4" and not close to filling 120". My screen is most certainly 120" diagonal. Not sure whats going on with this unit.
> 
> View attachment 3234445


You definitely look to be short on the normal zoom capability from that throw distance, just eyeballing looks like maybe 6” at each corner if the image were centered so maybe a foot short total which is obviously a lot. Try a factory reset on the PJ and see if that changes anything, otherwise possibly a hardware issue. Sorry, I’m not able to offer more help.


----------



## Enchy

biglen said:


> I read an article about the PS5, where the guy was saying he doesn’t feel like the PS5 is a big improvement over the PS4 Pro, and that instead of buying a PS5, it’s probably a better investment to get the PS4 Pro. I can get a used Pro near me for $250.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Whoever wrote that article didn't know what they were talking about.


----------



## fredworld

HalfManHalfGod said:


> Thats 120" diagonal. From Epson throw calc. I should be able to hit 120" diag from 11' 9 7/8". I'm at 12'4" and not close to filling 120". My screen is most certainly 120" diagonal. Not sure whats going on with this unit.
> 
> View attachment 3234445


Are you saying that you are at 12'4" and maximum zoom cannot fill your 120" diagonal 16:9 screen? If so, *contact Epson.*


----------



## HalfManHalfGod

Correct, 120" screen and 12' 4" from lens to screen.

I have. They offered a refurb but I wanted to check in you folks to make sure I'm not doing something stupid. I've also heard not great things about the refurb units so I want to make sure my unit is in fact faulty before I went down that route.


----------



## Kieran

Enchy said:


> I watched a 3D movie that had a ton of low light and dark scenes last night and it was, quite frankly, miserable. Well, until I turned off the auto iris. So yeah, PSA if you are getting a ton of crosstalk/blurry 3D in low light scenes, turn off auto iris.


Thanks! I have not yet tried 3D on my 5050 but keep meaning to.


----------



## Enchy

Kieran said:


> Thanks! I have not yet tried 3D on my 5050 but keep meaning to.


Other thing to know is in the 3D settings there's a "3D brightness" option. Leave that low. I'd also recommend pausing a scene with lots of depth and hopefully highlights (dark scene with a bright spot in the background is best) and moving the depth slider around until it looks comfortable/natural. I run mine at a depth of 2.


----------



## Enchy

biglen said:


> I read an article about the PS5, where the guy was saying he doesn’t feel like the PS5 is a big improvement over the PS4 Pro, and that instead of buying a PS5, it’s probably a better investment to get the PS4 Pro. I can get a used Pro near me for $250.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The PS5 is a massive upgrade over the PS4 Pro. Lots of games have received 60fps patches or updates. I'm currently playing through Uncharted: Lost Legacy with graphical improvements in 1440p/60fps. It looks significantly better than it did when I played it on PS4 Pro. I'm playing Returnal, which is PS5 exclusive, and slowly creeping into my favorite games I've ever played. The Last of Us Part 2 received a 60 fps patch, so did Horizon: Zero Dawn. The new Horizon game coming out in a month or two will look significantly better on PS5 than PS4 Pro.

If it's a budget thing, I'd keep your PS4 until you can afford a PS5. If it's availability, I'd be patient and wait for a PS5. Right now buying a PS4 Pro when you already have a PS4 seems foolish.


----------



## shinksma

HalfManHalfGod said:


> Thats 120" diagonal. From Epson throw calc. I should be able to hit 120" diag from 11' 9 7/8". I'm at 12'4" and not close to filling 120". My screen is most certainly 120" diagonal. Not sure whats going on with this unit.
> 
> View attachment 3234445


That jives with the other online calculator. Weird. There must be something "broken" or just plain off with your unit, unless Epson has jacked up their own calculations.


----------



## biglen

Enchy said:


> The PS5 is a massive upgrade over the PS4 Pro. Lots of games have received 60fps patches or updates. I'm currently playing through Uncharted: Lost Legacy with graphical improvements in 1440p/60fps. It looks significantly better than it did when I played it on PS4 Pro. I'm playing Returnal, which is PS5 exclusive, and slowly creeping into my favorite games I've ever played. The Last of Us Part 2 received a 60 fps patch, so did Horizon: Zero Dawn. The new Horizon game coming out in a month or two will look significantly better on PS5 than PS4 Pro.
> 
> If it's a budget thing, I'd keep your PS4 until you can afford a PS5. If it's availability, I'd be patient and wait for a PS5. Right now buying a PS4 Pro when you already have a PS4 seems foolish.


I just noticed when I press the Info button on my 5050, while playing a game, it’s showing as 1080p. Shouldn’t the 5050 be upscaling the PS4, and 4k should be showing in the info panel?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

biglen said:


> I just noticed when I press the Info button on my 5050, while playing a game, it’s showing as 1080p. Shouldn’t the 5050 be upscaling the PS4, and 4k should be showing in the info panel?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't think the original PS4 outputs 4K, only the Pro. You can check the PS4 output settings directly


----------



## vic1250

Enchy said:


> Other thing to know is in the 3D settings there's a "3D brightness" option. Leave that low. I'd also recommend pausing a scene with lots of depth and hopefully highlights (dark scene with a bright spot in the background is best) and moving the depth slider around until it looks comfortable/natural. I run mine at a depth of 2.


This one is tricky as when the scene changes the effect changes as well. I've never found any difference with the brightness level on my epsons, but a very strange thing happened with one of them - after changing the bulb at 1000h all the ghosting and crosstalk went away? Still don't know how this happened, but before that it was barely watchable.


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> I just noticed when I press the Info button on my 5050, while playing a game, it’s showing as 1080p. Shouldn’t the 5050 be upscaling the PS4, and 4k should be showing in the info panel?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The 5050's INFO displays the INPUT signal. Engage the 4k Enhancement of the 5050 to upscale the input signal as 4k, but that won't change the INFO display. If 4k Enhancement is grayed out then it's disabled because the PJ is already being fed a 4k signal.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> The 5050's INFO displays the INPUT signal. Engage the 4k Enhancement of the 5050 to upscale the input signal as 4k, but that won't change the INFO display. If 4k Enhancement is grayed out then it's disabled because the PJ is already being fed a 4k signal.


Ah, gotcha. I thought the Info panel showed the output. 4k Enhancement is grayed out with the PS4, so I guess it is getting upscaled. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> Ah, gotcha. I thought the Info panel showed the output. 4k Enhancement is grayed out with the PS4, so I guess it is getting upscaled.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Upscaled from the PS4? If the PS4 is limited to output 1080p but connected through an AVR, then the AVR could be set to output 4k. The 5050's grayed out 4k Enhancement means it's NOT upscaling because it's getting a 4k signal from something. Is the INFO display still showing 1080p?


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Upscaled from the PS4? If the PS4 is limited to output 1080p but connected through an AVR, then the AVR could be set to output 4k. The 5050's grayed out 4k Enhancement means it's NOT upscaling because it's getting a 4k signal from something. Is the INFO display still showing 1080p?


I’m not home. When I last looked, something was definitely grayed out. I’ll have to double check when I get home tonight. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

I'm pretty sure 4K Enhancement only works with processing is set to "fine" which adds latency, so it's not optimal for games. I don't remember off the top of my head though.


----------



## giraffejumper

Anyone tried out these bulbs on Amazon?
Good price, but that means potential crap lol


----------



## BlueMan Jones

That price just seems too good to be true.....and you know what they say about that


----------



## b_scott

I wouldn't eff around with bulbs. Hot ones can shatter your LCDs.


----------



## giraffejumper

b_scott said:


> I wouldn't eff around with bulbs. Hot ones can shatter your LCDs.


What's the recommended bulb most use here?
The "official" Epson bulb has disastrous reviews on Amazon.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

giraffejumper said:


> What's the recommended bulb most use here?
> The "official" Epson bulb has disastrous reviews on Amazon.


The original lamps are so cheap,and are the best.. simple as that


----------



## giraffejumper

Tsunamijhoe said:


> The original lamps are so cheap,and are the best.. simple as that


Not sure we have the same definition of the word "cheap" lol.
Perhaps there are better places to buy it than Epson direct.


----------



## WynsWrld98

giraffejumper said:


> Not sure we have the same definition of the word "cheap" lol.
> Perhaps there are better places to buy it than Epson direct.
> View attachment 3235333


Compared to JVC lamp prices cheap


----------



## fredworld

giraffejumper said:


> What's the recommended bulb most use here?
> The "official" Epson bulb has disastrous reviews on Amazon.


I'm sticking with original Epson lamps. My story is outlined in* posts of mine *from about a year ago. For newcomers interested see the above link.


----------



## DavidK442

WynsWrld98 said:


> Compared to JVC lamp prices cheap


50% of ridiculous = cheap?


----------



## BlueMan Jones

giraffejumper said:


> What's the recommended bulb most use here?
> The "official" Epson bulb has disastrous reviews on Amazon.


Which lamp would that be? The official model number "ELPLP89" listed on the Epson website has 4 of 5 stars on the Amazon page. I wouldn't exactly call that disastrous. However, because of the price, I don't think it's the Epson housing, just the OEM bulb. You'd have to purchase direct from Epson to get the "official" housing.
Epson Bulb


----------



## vic1250

Guys, while on a subject as I'm looking for a JVC coming from a lot of Epsons.... In Europe 6050 ELPLP89 is 200$. JVC is 700$. How is that even possible? When you purchase only the bulb, not the whole body, the prices are way more comparable.





JVC DLA-X5900W lamp/bulb - Fast worldwide shipping, great prices


JVC DLA-X5900W projector lamp. Mostly in stock ready to be shipped. We offer original and compatible lamp modules or just a bare bulbs for most models.



www.beamer-parts.eu









EPSON EH-TW9400 lamp/bulb - Fast worldwide shipping, great prices


EPSON EH-TW9400 projector lamp. Mostly in stock ready to be shipped. We offer original and compatible lamp modules or just a bare bulbs for most models.



www.beamer-parts.eu





Once I bought original bulb from local epson support what was even cheaper than that.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

giraffejumper said:


> Not sure we have the same definition of the word "cheap" lol.
> Perhaps there are better places to buy it than Epson direct.
> View attachment 3235333


To be clear, they are half that price here. I haven't checked recently though with the shipping delays and everything. I always keep spares bought cheap. And i come from sony where lamps were 3x as expensive as epson here.


----------



## ntbm3

Sup dudes,

Just finished up my home theater and first projector which is a 5050ub. It’s new with 88 hrs on it right now.

I have noticed flickering of shadows and certain dark grey section of the image. It’s very obvious depending on the scene. Medium to bright scenes are amazing picture quality. It’s amazing

Here is what I have investigated so far…
- Source= Apple 4K gen1 Disney +, amazon prime and Netflix flickering happens. Apple 4k display settings at 4k SDR with frame rate and HDR match content selected.
Does not seem to happen with my Panasonic UHD player as the source…hmmm

lamp mode = happens both high and medium
I have not played with settings too much, have read about maybe iris settings might do something but i am not sure what to change exactly.

Because it seems to only happen with the Apple TV as the source I might have not the best combination of settings…. Any thoughts??

Some pics to show off the new space  almost done!


----------



## fredworld

ntbm3 said:


> Sup dudes,
> 
> Just finished up my home theater and first projector which is a 5050ub. It’s new with 88 hrs on it right now.
> 
> I have noticed flickering of shadows and certain dark grey section of the image. It’s very obvious depending on the scene. Medium to bright scenes are amazing picture quality. It’s amazing
> 
> Here is what I have investigated so far…
> - Source= Apple 4K gen1 Disney +, amazon prime and Netflix flickering happens. Apple 4k display settings at 4k SDR with frame rate and HDR match content selected.
> Does not seem to happen with my Panasonic UHD player as the source…hmmm
> 
> lamp mode = happens both high and medium
> I have not played with settings too much, have read about maybe iris settings might do something but i am not sure what to change exactly.
> 
> Because it seems to only happen with the Apple TV as the source I might have not the best combination of settings…. Any thoughts??
> 
> Some pics to show off the new space  almost done!
> View attachment 3235590
> 
> View attachment 3235592


This is what Epson had me do with my flicker issue before they replaced my lamp under warranty:

_"Turn off the projector.Disconnect the projector from its source.
Turn the projector on and try projecting without any source connected.
To effectively help resolve your issue, we need to verify the following information:_


_Does the same issue occur when projecting images without any source connected?_
_Does the same issue occur when projecting images from a different source?_
_Does the same issue occur when using a different interface cable?"_
They also wanted to know if the flickering is _"like a brightness flickers or more of it black outs and come back in?"_ AND if I _"experience this flicker on all sources or only specific if you are not sure try different source because if it is the auto iris causing this, this settings in not global so you have to check each sources. "_

If it's decided it's the lamp they will want the old lamp returned which they had me do using the packaging of the replacement lamp.

That's my history from a number of email exchanges with Epson.

I wouldn't hesitate to put Epson on notice. If it's not the lamp and turns out to be the projector you could end up with a refurbished projector for a replacement instead of a new one. My issue completely resolved with the replacement lamp but I'm running on MEDIUM. I no longer use ECO mode. I use HIGH for 3D. 

Here are *search results for flickering in this thread*, which you might find helpful and educational.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Upscaled from the PS4? If the PS4 is limited to output 1080p but connected through an AVR, then the AVR could be set to output 4k. The 5050's grayed out 4k Enhancement means it's NOT upscaling because it's getting a 4k signal from something. Is the INFO display still showing 1080p?


4k Enhancement was not grayed out, it was Frame Interpolation that was. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

ntbm3 said:


> Sup dudes,
> 
> Just finished up my home theater and first projector which is a 5050ub. It’s new with 88 hrs on it right now.
> 
> I have noticed flickering of shadows and certain dark grey section of the image. It’s very obvious depending on the scene. Medium to bright scenes are amazing picture quality. It’s amazing
> 
> Here is what I have investigated so far…
> - Source= Apple 4K gen1 Disney +, amazon prime and Netflix flickering happens. Apple 4k display settings at 4k SDR with frame rate and HDR match content selected.
> Does not seem to happen with my Panasonic UHD player as the source…hmmm
> 
> lamp mode = happens both high and medium
> I have not played with settings too much, have read about maybe iris settings might do something but i am not sure what to change exactly.
> 
> Because it seems to only happen with the Apple TV as the source I might have not the best combination of settings…. Any thoughts??
> 
> Some pics to show off the new space  almost done!
> View attachment 3235590
> 
> View attachment 3235592


Probably auto iris. Turn that off. If that doesn't help, it might be lamp flicker, run on high for a while see if that fixes it.


----------



## ntbm3

fredworld said:


> This is what Epson had me do with my flicker issue before they replaced my lamp under warranty:
> 
> _"Turn off the projector.Disconnect the projector from its source.
> Turn the projector on and try projecting without any source connected.
> To effectively help resolve your issue, we need to verify the following information:_
> 
> 
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images without any source connected?_
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images from a different source?_
> _Does the same issue occur when using a different interface cable?"_
> They also wanted to know if the flickering is _"like a brightness flickers or more of it black outs and come back in?"_ AND if I _"experience this flicker on all sources or only specific if you are not sure try different source because if it is the auto iris causing this, this settings in not global so you have to check each sources. "_
> 
> If it's decided it's the lamp they will want the old lamp returned which they had me do using the packaging of the replacement lamp.
> 
> That's my history from a number of email exchanges with Epson.
> 
> I wouldn't hesitate to put Epson on notice. If it's not the lamp and turns out to be the projector you could end up with a refurbished projector for a replacement instead of a new one. My issue completely resolved with the replacement lamp but I'm running on MEDIUM. I no longer use ECO mode. I use HIGH for 3D.
> 
> Here are *search results for flickering in this thread*, which you might find helpful and educational.


Appreciate it!!! Will read up and investigate my situation.


----------



## nusilver

Looking for some advice on my 5050, which I’ve owned for about a year.

Sometimes, when I power the projector on, there’s something going on where the lamp doesn’t dim at all, so the picture on the screen is too bright and takes on a kind of milky grey. Further, the entire wall around the screen is illuminated, as if I were shining a flashlight on the wall. Power cycles seem to fix it; but not reliably. 

Has anyone heard of this? Where the lamp seems to be on at full blast on boot and won’t dim as appropriate?


----------



## fredworld

nusilver said:


> Looking for some advice on my 5050, which I’ve owned for about a year.
> 
> Sometimes, when I power the projector on, there’s something going on where the lamp doesn’t dim at all, so the picture on the screen is too bright and takes on a kind of milky grey. Further, the entire wall around the screen is illuminated, as if I were shining a flashlight on the wall. Power cycles seem to fix it; but not reliably.
> 
> Has anyone heard of this? Where the lamp seems to be on at full blast on boot and won’t dim as appropriate?


Sounds like something is wrong. I'd contact *Epson Support*. Especially, since you're only one year in on the warranty.


----------



## Maineiac12

ntbm3 said:


> Sup dudes,
> 
> Just finished up my home theater and first projector which is a 5050ub. It’s new with 88 hrs on it right now.
> 
> I have noticed flickering of shadows and certain dark grey section of the image. It’s very obvious depending on the scene. Medium to bright scenes are amazing picture quality. It’s amazing
> 
> Here is what I have investigated so far…
> - Source= Apple 4K gen1 Disney +, amazon prime and Netflix flickering happens. Apple 4k display settings at 4k SDR with frame rate and HDR match content selected.
> Does not seem to happen with my Panasonic UHD player as the source…hmmm
> 
> lamp mode = happens both high and medium
> I have not played with settings too much, have read about maybe iris settings might do something but i am not sure what to change exactly.
> 
> Because it seems to only happen with the Apple TV as the source I might have not the best combination of settings…. Any thoughts??
> 
> Some pics to show off the new space  almost done!
> View attachment 3235590
> 
> View attachment 3235592


It’s your 1st gen Apple TV 4K. I had this exact same problem and verified it by watching the same movie on blu-ray and streaming and only the stream had the flicker. I replaced my Apple TV with the 2021 model and problem solved.

A few people on Reddit had the same problem and replacing the Apple TV fixed it for them too. There must be a bug somewhere in those units. Try a different device and you should be good!


----------



## DekPM19

I got my 5050 set up today just on a temporary table and the box it comes in. I think the picture looks good I was watching the nascar race and the colors really popped. I am running through my Emotiva xmc-2 the only problem I had was the lip sync was off, I got to figure that out, but other than that I am very happy with the way it looks. I do plan on getting it calibrated in a few months after the bulb gets some hours on it.
Allen


----------



## grumblebob

ntbm3 said:


> I have noticed flickering of shadows and certain dark grey section of the image. It’s very obvious depending on the scene. Medium to bright scenes are amazing picture quality. It’s amazing
> 
> Here is what I have investigated so far…
> - Source= Apple 4K gen1 Disney +, amazon prime and Netflix flickering happens. Apple 4k display settings at 4k SDR with frame rate and HDR match content selected.
> Does not seem to happen with my Panasonic UHD player as the source…hmmm


I had this same problem with my older model AppleTV. 

From memory turning off 'Match Frame Rate' in the settings fixed the flickering in low light areas of HDR content. I now have the 2021 model and it doesn't have the same problem.


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> This is what Epson had me do with my flicker issue before they replaced my lamp under warranty:
> 
> _"Turn off the projector.Disconnect the projector from its source.
> Turn the projector on and try projecting without any source connected.
> To effectively help resolve your issue, we need to verify the following information:_
> 
> 
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images without any source connected?_
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images from a different source?_
> _Does the same issue occur when using a different interface cable?"_
> They also wanted to know if the flickering is _"like a brightness flickers or more of it black outs and come back in?"_ AND if I _"experience this flicker on all sources or only specific if you are not sure try different source because if it is the auto iris causing this, this settings in not global so you have to check each sources. "_
> 
> If it's decided it's the lamp they will want the old lamp returned which they had me do using the packaging of the replacement lamp.
> 
> That's my history from a number of email exchanges with Epson.
> 
> I wouldn't hesitate to put Epson on notice. If it's not the lamp and turns out to be the projector you could end up with a refurbished projector for a replacement instead of a new one. My issue completely resolved with the replacement lamp but I'm running on MEDIUM. I no longer use ECO mode. I use HIGH for 3D.
> 
> Here are *search results for flickering in this thread*, which you might find helpful and educational.


You've convinced me to just not risk it with ECO so I now use Medium for everything, since High is so load. Glad I saw all this before having any troubles.


----------



## Alaric

giraffejumper said:


> Not sure we have the same definition of the word "cheap" lol.
> Perhaps there are better places to buy it than Epson direct.


$330 from Epson. WOW. They are £105.50 direct from Epson in the UK and that includes VAT at 20% too!


----------



## Jmouse007

Alaric said:


> $330 from Epson. WOW. They are £105.50 direct from Epson in the UK and that includes VAT at 20% too!


Yeah, EPSON charges highway robbery prices for the "privilege" of buying the EXACT SAME LAMP here in the USA. 

They think Americans are just rolling in dough. 

The leaders calling the price shots in EPSON Corp re: replacement lamps in the USA follow the axiom: "a sucker is born every minute."


----------



## WynsWrld98

Jmouse007 said:


> Yeah, EPSON charges highway robbery prices for the "privilege" of buying the EXACT SAME LAMP here in the USA.
> 
> They think Americans are just rolling in dough.
> 
> The leaders calling the price shots in EPSON Corp re: replacement lamps in the USA follow the axiom: "a sucker is born every minute."


Compare lamp prices to JVC 🤣🤣🤣🤣


----------



## ricwhite

I upgraded to a 5050ub instead of waiting for the new laser models. My guess is that the U.S. version of the LS12000b will retail for $4999.99. That's $2000 more than the 5050. My guess is that it will be announced April/May and will have availability some time in the summer/fall. I just didn't want to pay that much or wait that long. One reviewer noted that Epson is still planning to produce the 5050/6050 series to fill that price point. The laser version is at a much higher price point. I only have a 106" screen, so I will use the 5050ub for a few years and then see what is up with the laser models or flat panels. I think flat panels will become an option for projector uses under 120 inches within a couple years. There is already an affordable TCL 98 inch released this year. I expect to soon be reading some debate regarding flat panels versus projectors.


----------



## biglen

Jmouse007 said:


> Yeah, EPSON charges highway robbery prices for the "privilege" of buying the EXACT SAME LAMP here in the USA.
> 
> They think Americans are just rolling in dough.
> 
> The leaders calling the price shots in EPSON Corp re: replacement lamps in the USA follow the axiom: "a sucker is born every minute."


You had $3000 for the projector, and you’re complaining about $330 for a bulb? Even if you go through one a year, which probably wouldn’t happen, that’s less than a dollar a day. You’re the guy who complains that your Porsche needs the more expensive Premium fuel in it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

I would say I use my projector pretty heavily, and at the rate I'm going I'll do about 800 hours a year, so a new bulb every two years or so. Figure $150/year, so $12ish a month. That's less than I spend on milkshakes.


----------



## ricwhite

*About Bulbs*

Epson doesn't make bulbs. Only a few manufacturers do and Epson contracts with one of them. The bulbs are assembled to housings to make the lamp assemblies. If you buy from 3rd party vendors, you will never know if 1) you are getting the same exact bulb used in the Epson product and 2) whether you're getting the exact housing used in the authentic assembly. It's a crap shoot. So, if you buy a lamp replacement from a 3rd party, you might find the bulb is fine, but the housing doesn't quite fit. Or it could be the opposite - the housing fits fine but the bulb seems dim. Maybe you will find a source that gets BOTH right. But why chance that? An authentic lamp assembly is only $330 for over 3000 hours. That is NOT a lot of money and you know you're getting the real thing.

The best sources for lamps are
1) Epson stores. I have 100% confidence you will get the authentic lamp.
2) Dell seems to sell authentic Epson lamps. I have 80% confidence.
3) Compass Micro. I have not purchased from here, but when Epson ran out of stock, some of their reps referred customers to this source. So, I'm figuring they must have authentic lamps. 60% confidence. 

Since the light source is one of the most important parts of the projector, it doesn't make sense to me to risk a faulty product.


----------



## Jmouse007

biglen said:


> You had $3000 for the projector, and you’re complaining about $330 for a bulb? Even if you go through one a year, which probably wouldn’t happen, that’s less than a dollar a day. You’re the guy who complains that your Porsche needs the more expensive Premium fuel in it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It is the principle of the thing. There's absolutely no reason why EPSON is changing more than DOUBLE the price that the they are charging in GB and elsewhere for the exact same lamp. It is unconscionable greed.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

ricwhite said:


> One reviewer noted that Epson is still planning to produce the 5050/6050 series to fill that price point


Where did you read this?


----------



## ricwhite

Jmouse007 said:


> It is the principle of the thing. There's absolutely no reason why EPSON is changing more than DOUBLE the price that the they are charging in GB and elsewhere for the exact same lamp. It is unconscionable greed.


There have been a lot of people complaining that these 3rd party lamps are NOT the "exact same lamp." Some have housings that don't exactly fit. Others have screws that are the wrong size. Some complained that the bulb appeared dull. Others complained the bulb died after only 1000 hours. If you buy from 3rd party sites, you're taking a risk.


----------



## BlueMan Jones

Jmouse007 said:


> Yeah, EPSON charges highway robbery prices for the "privilege" of buying the EXACT SAME LAMP here in the USA.
> 
> They think Americans are just rolling in dough.
> 
> The leaders calling the price shots in EPSON Corp re: replacement lamps in the USA follow the axiom: "a sucker is born every minute."


The lamps directly from Epson have the Epson lamp housing. The lamps that you are buying from other places that are half that have the same OEM bulb, but their own custom housing. Sure, it fits the 5050, like it should, but it's not the OEM housing that you'd get from Epson. Now, am I saying that the housing is worth $150...that's a fair question to debate, but in this hobby, a lot of things aren't really worth the price asked for them. It's a little misleading though to say that the entire assembly you get from Epson is the same as the entire assembly you get from resellers.


----------



## ricwhite

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Where did you read this?


I read they are keeping the previous versions at this review site. Translate to English. He wrote: _Without a doubt, both models are the worthy successors of the TW9400, which by the way is not being phased out and will remain in the range as a cheaper alternative. _


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

ricwhite said:


> I read they are keeping the previous versions at this review site. Translate to English. He wrote: _Without a doubt, both models are the worthy successors of the TW9400, which by the way is not being phased out and will remain in the range as a cheaper alternative. _


Thank you. I hope this is correct as I was very close to buying another 6050 just to have as backup as i was fearing epson was abandoning lamp based projectors.


----------



## ricwhite

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Thank you. I hope this is correct as I was very close to buying another 6050 just to have as backup as i was fearing epson was abandoning lamp based projectors.


I hope the reviewer is right. Someone from Epson probably told him the previous line will stay. Epson makes a LOT of lamp based projectors - dozens of different models. So, lamps will be around for a while. Since the laser projectors are so much more expensive, it makes sense to keep the 5050/6050 line in that price range. Epson OWNS the $3000-$4000 theater projector market. They would be foolish to abandon it.


----------



## PixelPusher15

I'm thinking Epson ditches the 6050 in the states and leaves the 5050 alone. I've heard a couple of comments around here that dealers are being told they can't get any more 6050s and I tend to believe them. I don't think I've heard the same about the 5050, just that it is hard to get ahold of right now.


----------



## ricwhite

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'm thinking Epson ditches the 6050 in the states and leaves the 5050 alone. I've heard a couple of comments around here that dealers are being told they can't get any more 6050s and I tend to believe them. I don't think I've heard the same about the 5050, just that it is hard to get ahold of right now.


It's possible that Epson won't release both the LS11000 and LS12000 and opt to just release the LS12000 and have that replace what is now the 6050 line. Then they will leave the 5050 as is. It makes no sense for them to abandon the $3000 theater projector market since that was one of their best markets without any real competition. I think the U.S. version of the LS12000 will retail for around $5000 which is a completely different price market. There is no way they will have the 4010 for $2000 and then the next step up is the laser projector for $5000. There has to be something in between - which means the 5050UB stays.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

ricwhite said:


> I hope the reviewer is right. Someone from Epson probably told him the previous line will stay. Epson makes a LOT of lamp based projectors - dozens of different models. So, lamps will be around for a while. Since the laser projectors are so much more expensive, it makes sense to keep the 5050/6050 line in that price range. Epson OWNS the $3000-$4000 theater projector market. They would be foolish to abandon it.


I know they have a lot of lamp based in the presentation/business segment,what i meant was for home cinema with the features the tw9400 has.. motorized optics,and stunning image quality for the price.. For me the tw9400 represents the absolute pinnacle of a device and i absolutely love the model.. I can't afford the newer models with laser,and i don't want to own a laser model until the light engine is replaceable,or it will last double the hours, which i dont see happening.. I hope the 6050/9400 is a bestseller for Epson so they won't see a need to remove it from line up.


----------



## pottscb

ricwhite said:


> I upgraded to a 5050ub instead of waiting for the new laser models. My guess is that the U.S. version of the LS12000b will retail for $4999.99. That's $2000 more than the 5050. My guess is that it will be announced April/May and will have availability some time in the summer/fall. I just didn't want to pay that much or wait that long. One reviewer noted that Epson is still planning to produce the 5050/6050 series to fill that price point. The laser version is at a much higher price point.


This is what I’m seriously hoping for, that or release a 5060 which is the 12000 but with a lamp. They’ve already done the R&D…which, without the laser was absolutely nothing…it’s the same imaging chip from 5050, some software engineer wrote some code to make the 3x pixel shift a 4x pixel shift and improved the dynamic gamma to simulate DTM. Done. up charge $500 for the improvements and call it a day…the laser isn’t worth $2000 to many, especially if it’s only hitting 86% of P3 (which is = or worse than some reviewers measured in 6050) wouldn’t it be amazing to have 2000 lumens at 99% P3? Most streaming conten is now HDR which I KNOW it wasn’t shot that way (old 80’s Disney Plus live action movies are Dolby Vision, lol)


----------



## Kieran

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'm thinking Epson ditches the 6050 in the states and leaves the 5050 alone. I've heard a couple of comments around here that dealers are being told they can't get any more 6050s and I tend to believe them. I don't think I've heard the same about the 5050, just that it is hard to get ahold of right now.


Well that makes sense, considering the 6050 is nothing more than a 5050 with cherry picked lenses that pass a higher inspection standard. So of course they are harder to find/make.


----------



## jimed1

Question for anyone with a 6050, or 5050 for that matter, and is using it with a lot of vertical lens shift. 
How is chromatic aberration with the lens? I am using a 5020 right now and I am limited to the projector lens height being no lower than at the top of the screen. I have 10 1/2' ceiling in my room and I don't want to raise my screen. So I am wondering if the lens, which is a different design than my 5020, is better, Especially the 6050 lens which is supposed to be cherry picked. 
Thanks


----------



## Kieran

jimed1 said:


> Question for anyone with a 6050, or 5050 for that matter, and is using it with a lot of vertical lens shift.
> How is chromatic aberration with the lens? I am using a 5020 right now and I am limited to the projector lens height being no lower than at the top of the screen. I have 10 1/2' ceiling in my room and I don't want to raise my screen. So I am wondering if the lens, which is a different design than my 5020, is better, Especially the 6050 lens which is supposed to be cherry picked.
> Thanks


I'd say it's very good to excellent in my projector. I would have to get within inches of the screen to see any lens refraction induced dispersion of color. I'll double check next time I have the chance. But I'd say I have almost zero chromatic aberration. 

My lens is also located at the top of my screen, so I'm using a lot of lens shift. Throw is around 11-12 ft. to a 110" 16:9 screen.


----------



## jimed1

Kieran said:


> I'd say it's very good to excellent in my projector. I would have to get within inches of the screen to see any lens refraction induced dispersion of color. I'll double check next time I have the chance. But I'd say I have almost zero chromatic aberration.
> 
> My lens is also located at the top of my screen, so I'm using a lot of lens shift. Throw is around 11-12 ft. to a 110" 16:9 screen.


That is good to hear. Your setup is exactly like mine. I have to use subtitles a lot and that is where it really shows up for me now. It never quite looks focused because of the blue fringing. 
Do you have the 6050 or 5050?

Thanks


----------



## Kieran

jimed1 said:


> That is good to hear. Your setup is exactly like mine. I have to use subtitles a lot and that is where it really shows up for me now. It never quite looks focused because of the blue fringing.
> Do you have the 6050 or 5050?
> 
> Thanks


----------



## shinksma

Kieran said:


> View attachment 3237898
> 
> 
> View attachment 3237899


I learned something new today! My day is done, I shall go back to bed now!


----------



## ntbm3

fredworld said:


> This is what Epson had me do with my flicker issue before they replaced my lamp under warranty:
> 
> _"Turn off the projector.Disconnect the projector from its source.
> Turn the projector on and try projecting without any source connected.
> To effectively help resolve your issue, we need to verify the following information:_
> 
> 
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images without any source connected?_
> _Does the same issue occur when projecting images from a different source?_
> _Does the same issue occur when using a different interface cable?"_
> They also wanted to know if the flickering is _"like a brightness flickers or more of it black outs and come back in?"_ AND if I _"experience this flicker on all sources or only specific if you are not sure try different source because if it is the auto iris causing this, this settings in not global so you have to check each sources. "_
> 
> If it's decided it's the lamp they will want the old lamp returned which they had me do using the packaging of the replacement lamp.
> 
> That's my history from a number of email exchanges with Epson.
> 
> I wouldn't hesitate to put Epson on notice. If it's not the lamp and turns out to be the projector you could end up with a refurbished projector for a replacement instead of a new one. My issue completely resolved with the replacement lamp but I'm running on MEDIUM. I no longer use ECO mode. I use HIGH for 3D.
> 
> Here are *search results for flickering in this thread*, which you might find helpful and educational.



Update! Reading through all the search links I noticed I should run the bulb on High for the first 100 hrs or so. 

I went through and did a un plug of projector and sources. Set projector to high/Natural color and check all my settings in apple TV and on the projector. 

I currently have NO black flicker after watching some olympics for 4-6 hours on SDR and going back to HDR content last night. Hopefully things are improved from her out! Thank you for the help!!


----------



## jimed1

That is new to me too. I thought that showed up in the signature automatically.


----------



## Alaric

pottscb said:


> This is what I’m seriously hoping for, that or release a 5060 which is the 12000 but with a lamp. They’ve already done the R&D…which, without the laser was absolutely nothing…it’s the same imaging chip from 5050, some software engineer wrote some code to make the 3x pixel shift a 4x pixel shift and improved the dynamic gamma to simulate DTM. Done. up charge $500 for the improvements and call it a day…the laser isn’t worth $2000 to many, especially if it’s only hitting 86% of P3 (which is = or worse than some reviewers measured in 6050) wouldn’t it be amazing to have 2000 lumens at 99% P3? Most streaming conten is now HDR which I KNOW it wasn’t shot that way (old 80’s Disney Plus live action movies are Dolby Vision, lol)


Not likely to happen alas. Most sources i've read have said that the 9400/5050 is the last of the line. 
I've read mixed things on them even carrying on production of these models, which i'd say is Epson hedging it's bets and selling through older stock, though if it IS selling well, then I can also see it making sense.

If they created a 5060 like you say, then it would undermine sales of their flagship model, as a business it just doesn't make sense, particularly in a production constrained market.


----------



## ricwhite

Alaric said:


> Not likely to happen alas. Most sources i've read have said that the 9400/5050 is the last of the line.
> I've read mixed things on them even carrying on production of these models, which i'd say is Epson hedging it's bets and selling through older stock, though if it IS selling well, then I can also see it making sense.
> 
> If they created a 5060 like you say, then it would undermine sales of their flagship model, as a business it just doesn't make sense, particularly in a production constrained market.


Epson has a LOT of lamp based projectors at various price points below the 5050. I'm sure they are planning to carry on those lines. It seems like the LS12000 is not a "replacement" for the 5050. It's a NEW line. So, I would expect Epson to continue to make incremental improvements to all of those lines including the 5050 line. It would make no sense for Epson to eliminate the $3000 price point option since that is one of their best selling projectors. The LS12000 will likely retail for $5000 which is a completely different price point and different technology. With that said, I doubt Epson will turn the 5050 into just a lamp-based LS12000. There will be more features in the LS12000 that separate it from the much cheaper 5050. But I DO expect Epson to continue the 5050 line and tweak it along the way. I'm not sure what Epson has in mind in their projector master plan for the years ahead.


----------



## PixelPusher15

ricwhite said:


> Epson has a LOT of lamp based projectors at various price points below the 5050. I'm sure they are planning to carry on those lines. It seems like the LS12000 is not a "replacement" for the 5050. It's a NEW line. So, I would expect Epson to continue to make incremental improvements to all of those lines including the 5050 line. It would make no sense for Epson to eliminate the $3000 price point option since that is one of their best selling projectors. The LS12000 will likely retail for $5000 which is a completely different price point and different technology. With that said, I doubt Epson will turn the 5050 into just a lamp-based LS12000. There will be more features in the LS12000 that separate it from the much cheaper 5050. But I DO expect Epson to continue the 5050 line and tweak it along the way. I'm not sure what Epson has in mind in their projector master plan for the years ahead.


I'm not so sure.

I can't see Epson coming out with a replacement for the 5050 with any measurable improvements. If they implement better HDR tone mapping and the LS12000's 4x shift then it would be way too close to the LS12000. If they do less than that then it just isn't really an update. If the only difference between a 5060 and an LS12000 is a laser then I think they will be undercutting the LS12000. I don't believe a laser is a big enough reason to shell out an extra $2000 for a lot of people. Now, if Epson comes out with a 5060 that's priced at $4000 then I think some may bite the laser bullet.


----------



## Alan P

Question for the projector pros:

I am in the early planning stages of my first dedicated home theater room. Since reading such good things about the 5050UB, along with it being right on my budget, I am thinking this might be the pj for me. However, I am getting conflicting information from the Epson Throw Distance Calculator vs Projector Central's calculator (or, I'm just using them wrong, which is a distinct possibility!).

My room will be around 14'x21' with a sort of lobby/entry room in the back where the projector will be located (shooting through a port window, so about 22' throw distance). Planning on a 163" diagonal 2.40 AT screen from Seymour with seating distance around 13'6". Room will have no windows, completely light controlled and painted dark/matte colors (dark gray or black).

Can someone tell me if the 5050UB will work in my situation, or should I be looking for something brighter??


----------



## jaredmwright

Alan P said:


> Question for the projector pros:
> 
> I am in the early planning stages of my first dedicated home theater room. Since reading such good things about the 5050UB, along with it being right on my budget, I am thinking this might be the pj for me. However, I am getting conflicting information from the Epson Throw Distance Calculator vs Projector Central's calculator (or, I'm just using them wrong, which is a distinct possibility!).
> 
> My room will be around 14'x21' with a sort of lobby/entry room in the back where the projector will be located (shooting through a port window, so about 22' throw distance). Planning on a 163" diagonal 2.40 AT screen from Seymour with seating distance around 13'6". Room will have no windows, completely light controlled and painted dark/matte colors (dark gray or black).
> 
> Can someone tell me if the 5050UB will work in my situation, or should I be looking for something brighter??


My room is similar in size. About 13' wide x 20' deep. My projector is about 18' from the screen and throws onto a 175" 16x9 screen. I don't have any issues with zoom or shift and am not anywhere near the limit on adjustments, so there should be plenty of buffer for accommodating your space. Brightness also isn't an issue for me in my light controlled and treated room running on Medium lamp mode. Sounds like your setup is similar, so I wouldn't expect any issues. Double check the mounting location and details though to be sure.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

jimed1 said:


> That is good to hear. Your setup is exactly like mine. I have to use subtitles a lot and that is where it really shows up for me now. It never quite looks focused because of the blue fringing.
> Do you have the 6050 or 5050?
> 
> Thanks


Could the fringing possibly be panel misalignment instead? You didn't say whether or not you'd checked that.


----------



## Alaric

ricwhite said:


> Epson has a LOT of lamp based projectors at various price points below the 5050. I'm sure they are planning to carry on those lines. It seems like the LS12000 is not a "replacement" for the 5050. It's a NEW line. So, I would expect Epson to continue to make incremental improvements to all of those lines including the 5050 line. It would make no sense for Epson to eliminate the $3000 price point option since that is one of their best selling projectors. The LS12000 will likely retail for $5000 which is a completely different price point and different technology. With that said, I doubt Epson will turn the 5050 into just a lamp-based LS12000. There will be more features in the LS12000 that separate it from the much cheaper 5050. But I DO expect Epson to continue the 5050 line and tweak it along the way. I'm not sure what Epson has in mind in their projector master plan for the years ahead.


I see the logic. I'm A HUGE fan of the TW9400 and would totally LOVE them to create a replacement as the LS12000 doesn't really do it for me for a few reasons.

However I'm just relaying what I've read and been told by those in the know


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## Alaric

Alan P said:


> My room will be around 14'x21' with a sort of lobby/entry room in the back where the projector will be located (shooting through a port window, so about 22' throw distance). Planning on a 163" diagonal 2.40 AT screen from Seymour with seating distance around 13'6". Room will have no windows, completely light controlled and painted dark/matte colors (dark gray or black).
> 
> Can someone tell me if the 5050UB will work in my situation, or should I be looking for something brighter??


Good luck at finding something brighter, with anything like the contrast/colours of the 5050 for anywhere close to the price in the current market. However unless you have the room ready to go, or you can use it elsewhere, buying the kit now is probably not the smartest move. It'll age, loose value and there may be other options when the room is done.

Oh and have a look at velvet for the walls. Way quicker and easier than painting and MUCH better for light - I _WISH_ i'd have thought about velvet years ago. Even matt black paint reflects and a grey velvet would absorb and not bounce back!


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

I just got an email from my dealer who had contacted Epson regarding the future of lamp based.. Epson will cease production on ALL lamp based projectors ultimo 2024 due to regulations about mercury in bulbs. This is EU though. Don't know about US. So i guess the writing is on the wall..
They also said that aftermarket lamps will be on the market for existing products for some time.

Manufacturers being forced to abandon mercury should be good news for laser prices,and the environment in countries that don't have proper recycling for mercury... But it still doesn't solve the waste problem for heavy users like myself.

Guess i am gonna go ahead with my plan to buy another TW-9400 as backup..


----------



## Alan P

Alaric said:


> Good luck at finding something brighter, with anything like the contrast/colours of the 5050 for anywhere close to the price in the current market. However unless you have the room ready to go, or you can use it elsewhere, buying the kit now is probably not the smartest move. It'll age, loose value and there may be other options when the room is done.
> 
> Oh and have a look at velvet for the walls. Way quicker and easier than painting and MUCH better for light - I _WISH_ i'd have thought about velvet years ago. Even matt black paint reflects and a grey velvet would absorb and not bounce back!


I definitely don't plan on purchasing whatever pj I end up with until everything is very close to being finished, for sure.

Velvet on _all the walls_? I haven't seen that mentioned yet on the build threads I've read. I've seen a couple do it on the screen wall, but that's it. Would you happen to have a link or two I could check out?

Thanks!


----------



## Alaric

Alan P said:


> Velvet on _all the walls_? I haven't seen that mentioned yet on the build threads I've read. I've seen a couple do it on the screen wall, but that's it. Would you happen to have a link or two I could check out?


Not sure on links, however i've some images of my cinema on here Cinema Pics

I got a nice roll end, corded velvet from Ebay for my initial experiments which did most of my main walls and has nice texture to it. It's cut and hung from the top via a few staples from a gun and hangs very nicely. The _Initial_ idea of my room was to have it so i could easily convert back to the magnolia walls when i come to move as unlike my prior cinema which used a frankly useless almost windowless extension and the cinema made a nice feature, most "normal" people would want it as bedroom type thing

I've used A cheaper velour ultra suede type material for the ceiling, it's loosely stapled in place and again could come down pretty quickly when wanted.

The stepped platform probably messes up the initial idea of quick reversion of the room, but, plans change!

I actually wish i hadn't matt black painted the door, it's now too bright by comparison and i may wrap in adhesive backed velvet. It took a few coats and a fair bit of time compared with cutting and staple gunning fabric.

There's a nice youtube video here 



 showing a transformation with adhesive backed material that looks very neat.
It has Protostar, DC-Fix, Triple Black Velvet, Devore - Projectiondream in the links which compares some fabrics


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alan P said:


> I definitely don't plan on purchasing whatever pj I end up with until everything is very close to being finished, for sure.
> 
> Velvet on _all the walls_? I haven't seen that mentioned yet on the build threads I've read. I've seen a couple do it on the screen wall, but that's it. Would you happen to have a link or two I could check out?
> 
> Thanks!











The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image


A lot of threads have become a home theater improvment color scene around "black"ing out the screen area. Flat black paint, black felt, black velvet, black carpet... You name it! I figured lets put it in this thread and share our thoughts / noticed improvments / methods / pictures of before and...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## b_scott

giraffejumper said:


> What's the recommended bulb most use here?
> The "official" Epson bulb has disastrous reviews on Amazon.


I'm not paying $330 for the epson bulb when they don't even produce them anyway. They buy them and slap their name on them. I go with Projector Lamps & Projector Bulbs - MyProjectorLamps USA . It's around $115 and works well.


----------



## b_scott

Alan P said:


> I definitely don't plan on purchasing whatever pj I end up with until everything is very close to being finished, for sure.
> 
> Velvet on _all the walls_? I haven't seen that mentioned yet on the build threads I've read. I've seen a couple do it on the screen wall, but that's it. Would you happen to have a link or two I could check out?
> 
> Thanks!


I do triple black velvet on the screen wall and the ceiling. No reflections.


----------



## Alan P

PixelPusher15 said:


> The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image
> 
> 
> A lot of threads have become a home theater improvment color scene around "black"ing out the screen area. Flat black paint, black felt, black velvet, black carpet... You name it! I figured lets put it in this thread and share our thoughts / noticed improvments / methods / pictures of before and...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Thanks for the link to that thread. Dang, _459 pages?!_ Down the rabbit hole I go.......


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alan P said:


> Thanks for the link to that thread. Dang, _459 pages?!_ Down the rabbit hole I go.......


Its a beast. My trick for searching for pictures in a thread like that for inspiration is to grab the thread title and go over to Google image search and do a search like "[insert thread name] site:avsforum.com"

Like this: The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image site:avsforum.com

Also a good search for what you're wanting would be doing an image search on all avs for "velvet walls" velvet walls site:avsforum.com


----------



## Alan P

PixelPusher15 said:


> Its a beast. My trick for searching for pictures in a thread like that for inspiration is to grab the thread title and go over to Google image search and do a search like "[insert thread name] site:avsforum.com"
> 
> Like this: The Blacker the Theater, The Better the Image site:avsforum.com
> 
> Also a good search for what you're wanting would be doing an image search on all avs for "velvet walls" velvet walls site:avsforum.com



Oh yeah, I've been using the Google "site:" trick for years. While the search engine here got a little better after the upgrade, Google still works better IMO.


----------



## Jmouse007

ntbm3 said:


> Update! Reading through all the search links I noticed I should run the bulb on High for the first 100 hrs or so.
> 
> I went through and did a un plug of projector and sources. Set projector to high/Natural color and check all my settings in apple TV and on the projector.
> 
> I currently have NO black flicker after watching some olympics for 4-6 hours on SDR and going back to HDR content last night. Hopefully things are improved from her out! Thank you for the help!!


That's what I did when breaking into the lamp... No flicker on ECO Mode after nearly 500 hours. Although I also use the 6050UB in Medium Mode periodically when watching some movies.


----------



## ricwhite

I've been using projectors since 2002 and I never "broke in" any of my lamps. Most of them started on low lamp and moved to high lamp as the lamps aged a little and none of my lamps ever died prematurely. Before I swapped projectors my 6010UB was on lamp hour 2740 and still looking great. My current 5050 had the lamp on "medium" by default. If the lamps needed a "break in" period, not only would the lamp be set to default on "high" but in the manual it would say to break in the lamp on high for 100 hours. It does neither.


----------



## chicodecali

Is there any benefit to having a receiver that handles HDR10+ for the 5050? Right now I have the Denon x3600 which just does HDR10. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

chicodecali said:


> Is there any benefit to having a receiver that handles HDR10+ for the 5050? Right now I have the Denon x3600 which just does HDR10.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nope.


----------



## pottscb

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I just got an email from my dealer who had contacted Epson regarding the future of lamp based.. Epson will cease production on ALL lamp based projectors ultimo 2024 due to regulations about mercury in bulbs. This is EU though. Don't know about US. So i guess the writing is on the wall..
> They also said that aftermarket lamps will be on the market for existing products for some time.
> 
> Manufacturers being forced to abandon mercury should be good news for laser prices,and the environment in countries that don't have proper recycling for mercury... But it still doesn't solve the waste problem for heavy users like myself.
> 
> Guess i am gonna go ahead with my plan to buy another TW-9400 as backup..


I guarantee you the EU “authorities” haven’t even begun to consider what happens to all those lasers that will end up in a landfill…OH WAIT, THEY’RE MADE WITH DDT?!? $&@t. Buy all the 60’s muscle cars and Epson projectors you can now…and stock up on bulbs!


----------



## ricwhite

I got my 5050UB a couple days ago. I only have about 10 hours on the lamp. I entered someone else's calibration numbers just as a starting point but I'm not going to do a full calibration until the lamp has at least 100 hours on it. I took a few photos of the screen showing some 4k content from a YouTube channel. I am actually quite pleased. The brightness and colors are the most impressive. The black levels are just barely better than my 6010 projector - more a dark grey. That is probably the weakest element with this projector. But, overall, I'm satisfied.


----------



## WynsWrld98

ricwhite said:


> I got my 5050UB a couple days ago. I only have about 10 hours on the lamp. I entered someone else's calibration numbers just as a starting point but I'm not going to do a full calibration until the lamp has at least 100 hours on it. I took a few photos of the screen showing some 4k content from a YouTube channel. I am actually quite pleased. The brightness and colors are the most impressive. The black levels are just barely better than my 6010 projector - more a dark grey. That is probably the weakest element with this projector. But, overall, I'm satisfied.
> 
> View attachment 3239106
> 
> 
> View attachment 3239107
> 
> 
> View attachment 3239109
> 
> 
> View attachment 3239110


You're judging picture quality incl blacks on a new projector you haven't calibrated and comparing it to another projector (6010) that probably has been calibrated?


----------



## ricwhite

WynsWrld98 said:


> You're judging picture quality incl blacks on a new projector you haven't calibrated and comparing it to another projector (6010) that probably has been calibrated?


Yes


----------



## Spoonsey

ricwhite said:


> I got my 5050UB a couple days ago. I only have about 10 hours on the lamp. I entered someone else's calibration numbers just as a starting point but I'm not going to do a full calibration until the lamp has at least 100 hours on it. I took a few photos of the screen showing some 4k content from a YouTube channel. I am actually quite pleased. The brightness and colors are the most impressive. The black levels are just barely better than my 6010 projector - more a dark grey. That is probably the weakest element with this projector. But, overall, I'm satisfied.
> 
> View attachment 3239106
> 
> 
> View attachment 3239107
> 
> 
> View attachment 3239109
> 
> 
> View attachment 3239110


I don't care if it's calibrated or not, it looks f*cking awesome (coming from a very satisfied 5030UB owner).


----------



## hms17B

ricwhite said:


> I got my 5050UB a couple days ago. I only have about 10 hours on the lamp. I entered someone else's calibration numbers just as a starting point but I'm not going to do a full calibration until the lamp has at least 100 hours on it. I took a few photos of the screen showing some 4k content from a YouTube channel. I am actually quite pleased. The brightness and colors are the most impressive. The black levels are just barely better than my 6010 projector - more a dark grey. That is probably the weakest element with this projector. But, overall, I'm satisfied.
> 
> View attachment 3239106
> 
> 
> View attachment 3239107
> 
> 
> View attachment 3239109
> 
> 
> View attachment 3239110


Are you using the iris? I find it makes quite an improvement in black level.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

pottscb said:


> I guarantee you the EU “authorities” haven’t even begun to consider what happens to all those lasers that will end up in a landfill…OH WAIT, THEY’RE MADE WITH DDT?!? $&@t. Buy all the 60’s muscle cars and Epson projectors you can now…and stock up on bulbs!


What has 60s cars got to do with this? I am relaying information my dealer got from Epson. I don't care about lasers at present, i love my lamp based epson.
I don't understand your post.


----------



## rekbones

Tsunamijhoe said:


> What has 60s cars got to do with this? I am relaying information my dealer got from Epson. I don't care about lasers at present, i love my lamp based epson.
> I don't understand your post.


Simple, he's talking the gas hog air polluting cars of the 60's and energy hog mercury polluting UHP lamps the environmentalist are restricting.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

rekbones said:


> Simple, he's talking the gas hog air polluting cars of the 60's and energy hog mercury polluting UHP lamps the environmentalist are restricting.


What has that got to do with epson and lamps? Besides 60s muscle cars run on gasoline no longer availble,they have all been retrofitted to run unleaded or you would have to make your own gasoline with additives or manually add additives to the pump gasoline,so again his argument makes no sense. And why stock up on them? Epson said lamps would be available for quite some time.. If he is trying to be funny,i don't get it. 
So his whole comment makes no sense and is redundant. And why quote me with a comment like that as i merely convey information i have gotten from my dealer..
You can do with that information what you want, i don't care..


----------



## pottscb

The 5050’s are back in stock at Amazon for anyone stalking one…they’re also ~10% over retail, gotta live price gouging. I think I’m gonna go price gough my employer and see what they say!


----------



## ricwhite

pottscb said:


> The 5050’s are back in stock at Amazon for anyone stalking one…they’re also ~10% over retail, gotta live price gouging. I think I’m gonna go price gough my employer and see what they say!


They are not in stock at amazon. They are being sold and shipped by 3rd party vendors through their marketplace system. That is why they are above retail price and they are likely not authorized Epson dealers.


----------



## BlueMan Jones

pottscb said:


> The 5050’s are back in stock at Amazon for anyone stalking one…they’re also ~10% over retail, gotta live price gouging. I think I’m gonna go price gough my employer and see what they say!


Maybe dust off your resume before you do it though


----------



## gary gunkel

NTBM- Some pics to show off the new space  almost done!
View attachment 3235590

Can I ask you how you were able to attach your acoustic panels flush with the ceiling. I’m currently doing mine, but they come with an eye hook and don’t know how to get them flush like yours 
Thanks


----------



## ricwhite

I watched my first 3D movie - Under the Sea 3D - on the 5050 today. That was quite impressive. I purchased the Hi-Shock 3D glasses and they worked perfectly. Over the last few years collecting Blu-ray movies, I had about 20 that included 3D versions. So, I already have some to watch. Being able to watch 3D was one of the reasons why I opted for the 5050UB instead of waiting for the Epson laser projector.


----------



## hms17B

Tsunamijhoe said:


> What has that got to do with epson and lamps? Besides 60s muscle cars run on gasoline no longer availble,they have all been retrofitted to run unleaded or you would have to make your own gasoline with additives or manually add additives to the pump gasoline,so again his argument makes no sense. And why stock up on them? Epson said lamps would be available for quite some time.. If he is trying to be funny,i don't get it.
> So his whole comment makes no sense and is redundant. And why quote me with a comment like that as i merely convey information i have gotten from my dealer..
> You can do with that information what you want, i don't care..


Tough room.


----------



## Enchy

ricwhite said:


> I watched my first 3D movie - Under the Sea 3D - on the 5050 today. That was quite impressive. I purchased the Hi-Shock 3D glasses and they worked perfectly. Over the last few years collecting Blu-ray movies, I had about 20 that included 3D versions. So, I already have some to watch. Being able to watch 3D was one of the reasons why I opted for the 5050UB instead of waiting for the Epson laser projector.


There's a good chunk of 3D blu rays that weren't released in the US, but have region free releases. If you have a multi-region player that's even better for the handful of films that only have Region B releases, like Terminator 2 3D.


----------



## DekPM19

I mounted my 5050ub the other day, after I install new lights and my atmos speakers over the next couple of weeks in between family and work I plan on painting the ceiling black.









I have already painted around my screen black just need to do the rest of the room.

Allen


----------



## ricwhite

4k Streaming shows like Reacher look good on the 5050. This is streaming on the amazon app from the Fire TV stick through the Denon AVR to the 5050 Projector. It's 4k HDR. I took the photos with my iPhone 11.


----------



## jimed1

hms17B said:


> Could the fringing possibly be panel misalignment instead? You didn't say whether or not you'd checked that.


I’ve got the alignment about as good as it can get. I even took it down and shot it straight to the screen to do alignment so I wouldn’t have any lens shift induced aberration. It still was not totally clean pixel lines. I guess I have one for the poorer lens.


----------



## ricwhite

Using 4k Fire TV Stick with the 5050UB is a little tricky. I noticed under the device settings if I had it set for AUTO 4k detection, the Fire TV Stick would always output 4k to the projector no matter what the source. So, if was I watching a non-4k basketball game on ESPN, the projector showed 4k resolution and the game looked like crap. There were artifacts around the moving players. When I changed the Fire TV Stick settings to force 1080P, the projector indicated the lower resolution and the picture actually looked a LOT better. So, I learned I cannot just leave AUTO 4k set on my Fire TV Stick. I had to manually switch it from 4k to 1080p depending on what kind of content I was watching. So, for example, when I decided to watch Reacher on Amazon Prime, I had to go into the settings on the Fire TV Stick and set it to 4k and when I decided to watch an ESPN basketball game, I had to go back to the Fire TV Stick settings and set it on 1080p output. It's a little inconvenient and annoying, but that is the only way to get a proper image on the 5050.


----------



## WynsWrld98

ricwhite said:


> Using 4k Fire TV Stick with the 5050UB is a little tricky. I noticed under the device settings if I had it set for AUTO 4k detection, the Fire TV Stick would always output 4k to the projector no matter what the source. So, if was I watching a non-4k basketball game on ESPN, the projector showed 4k resolution and the game looked like crap. There were artifacts around the moving players. When I changed the Fire TV Stick settings to force 1080P, the projector indicated the lower resolution and the picture actually looked a LOT better. So, I learned I cannot just leave AUTO 4k set on my Fire TV Stick. I had to manually switch it from 4k to 1080p depending on what kind of content I was watching. So, for example, when I decided to watch Reacher on Amazon Prime, I had to go into the settings on the Fire TV Stick and set it to 4k and when I decided to watch an ESPN basketball game, I had to go back to the Fire TV Stick settings and set it on 1080p output. It's a little inconvenient and annoying, but that is the only way to get a proper image on the 5050.


Apple TV 4K is a better streamer set and Forget always outputs what I expect


----------



## pottscb

hms17B said:


> Tough room.


I thought so…not naming names, but I think somebody starches&irons their underwear! (now I’m gonna get it about how this makes no sense…and how it’s a waste of time and financially imprudent and illogical to starch&iron underwear when the washer does a perfectly adequate job of it…sheesh!).


----------



## hms17B

pottscb said:


> I thought so…not naming names, but I think somebody starches&irons their underwear! (now I’m gonna get it about how this makes no sense…and how it’s a waste of time and financially imprudent and illogical to starch&iron underwear when the washer does a perfectly adequate job of it…sheesh!).


Maybe we need an open mic forum in here.


----------



## Alaric

jimed1 said:


> I’ve got the alignment about as good as it can get. I even took it down and shot it straight to the screen to do alignment so I wouldn’t have any lens shift induced aberration. It still was not totally clean pixel lines. I guess I have one for the poorer lens.











Epson TW9400 - Physical Setup


The other night I swapped my old and not particularly good and stable Duronic mount for a peerless PRG-UNV which meant i had MUCH better control of physical adjustments and as such managed to get a nigh on perfect alignment of the projector to the screen. My screen is slightly odd being suspended




sites.google.com




I created the above to help with alignment if your screen / projector / room isn't perfectly square etc. It takes the room and lots of measuring out of the equation, using the projector itself and large easy to see movements of the patterns rather than micro measurements - May help!


----------



## AnnapolisSony

BillZ said:


> Yes!
> 
> Sorry, I mentioned that in an earlier reply that the HDMI link was set to on. Thanks so much for the help.


@BillZ thanks so much for being diligent and posting about this issue. I have an EPSON 6050 - with maybe 75 hours on it - and it just started shutting down every 15 mins or so (you could set a damn timer to it). Anyway, it happened again last night during the Superbowl and I was dreading having to send it back to EPSON. I cannot wait to get home and pull up the settings to see if the HDMI link is set to ON. Pray for me brother!


----------



## hms17B

Alaric said:


> Epson TW9400 - Physical Setup
> 
> 
> The other night I swapped my old and not particularly good and stable Duronic mount for a peerless PRG-UNV which meant i had MUCH better control of physical adjustments and as such managed to get a nigh on perfect alignment of the projector to the screen. My screen is slightly odd being suspended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sites.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I created the above to help with alignment if your screen / projector / room isn't perfectly square etc. It takes the room and lots of measuring out of the equation, using the projector itself and large easy to see movements of the patterns rather than micro measurements - May help!


I don't see how one can ever be certain about pj-to-screen alignment without using a projected image like this. Even if the room were to be perfect. A very slight movement in any of the 3 axes puts it off a noticeable amount.


----------



## rk9flame

Just got a 5050ub and am very pleased with it! Just wanted to share my experience so far and maybe get some input.

I was having issues with judder that I was hoping would not be an issue coming from my older $600 projector. 60Hz content was fine, but 24Hz looked pretty rough. Running with an Apple TV 4k, I assumed the projector would automatically process the pulldown to 24Hz, like my Sony LED TV, but that didn't appear to be the case. After turning match frame rate on, I was able to get true 24Hz to the projector and it looks fantastic.
I have never experienced an HDR image that looks better than SDR. Not even on my Sony 900E (which has been found to be poor at handling HDR). I tried as best I could to get an HDR image to be calibrated correctly to appear bright, vivid, and not washed out, but wasn't able to. The closest I got was in Natural mode, with high fan speed, and the HDR slider around 6 or 7. I thought I got there, but as soon as I went back to SDR in Digital Theater mode, everything looked better than the HDR scene. Auto Iris set to high in all modes. On top of that, the high fan speed was a bit too noisy since the projector is directly overhead. I'm probably just crazy and can't appreciate HDR properly, since I've never seen it calibrated well. I just can't seem to get a sense of what it should look like and calibrate it appropriately to look natural.
Edit: Forgot to mention that remote is a BEAST. I love how unapologetically huge and user friendly it is. 
Everything else has exceeded my expectations, the colors, the black levels, the adjustability. Very pleased. I was also able to snag it for around $2,500 new (after various discounts), which makes me feel better than waiting for the $5,000 laser model.


----------



## Viche

*Epson Introduces High-End Pro Cinema LS12000 4K Laser Projector*
Epson Introduces High-End Pro Cinema LS12000 4K Laser Projector

Too rich for my blood.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Viche said:


> *Epson Introduces High-End Pro Cinema LS12000 4K Laser Projector*
> Epson Introduces High-End Pro Cinema LS12000 4K Laser Projector
> 
> Too rich for my blood.


Yeah, double the price of the 6050/9400 here almost, for a device that will have no used value and be landfill/recycle ready after 4-5 years, if you use the projector as much as i do. 
No thank you. I will scoop up another 9400 before they go out of production by 2024.


----------



## ricwhite

Viche said:


> *Epson Introduces High-End Pro Cinema LS12000 4K Laser Projector*
> Epson Introduces High-End Pro Cinema LS12000 4K Laser Projector
> 
> Too rich for my blood.


After thinking it through, I decided to get a 5050UB for $2000 less and keep 3D capability. Since I only have a 106" screen, in a couple of years, I might consider switching to flat panel display. They are getting larger and cheaper. But for now, I'm pleased with the 5050.


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I just got an email from my dealer who had contacted Epson regarding the future of lamp based.. Epson will cease production on ALL lamp based projectors ultimo 2024 due to regulations about mercury in bulbs. This is EU though. Don't know about US. So i guess the writing is on the wall..
> They also said that aftermarket lamps will be on the market for existing products for some time.
> 
> Manufacturers being forced to abandon mercury should be good news for laser prices,and the environment in countries that don't have proper recycling for mercury... But it still doesn't solve the waste problem for heavy users like myself.
> 
> Guess i am gonna go ahead with my plan to buy another TW-9400 as backup..


Being a 5050UB owner I had concerns about the future of my PJ so on Feb 11 I wrote to Epson and asked that with plans to discontinue bulb based projectors by 2024 what advice do they have for current owners of the 5050UB. Their reply was in two parts. First, they promtply sent a same day reply, _"Thank you for contacting Epson America. We have received your request and are escalating this issue for investigation. You will receive an update from us soon."_

Today I got their follow up, _"Thank you for contacting Epson. This is unknown to us, we do have new projectors coming out though..LS-12000."_

One can read into this as they may, but the word "though" might be implying that although the Support area is not aware or was not informed of a discontinuance, Epson remains in the PJ market with a laser based PJ. 
I guess time will tell.⌛


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

fredworld said:


> Being a 5050UB owner I had concerns about the future of my PJ so on Feb 11 I wrote to Epson and asked that with plans to discontinue bulb based projectors by 2024 what advice do they have for current owners of the 5050UB. Their reply was in two parts. First, they promtply sent a same day reply, _"Thank you for contacting Epson America. We have received your request and are escalating this issue for investigation. You will receive an update from us soon."_
> 
> Today I got their follow up, _"Thank you for contacting Epson. This is unknown to us, we do have new projectors coming out though..LS-12000."_
> 
> One can read into this as they may, but the word "though" might be implying that although the Support area is not aware or was not informed of a discontinuance, Epson remains in the PJ market with a laser based PJ.
> I guess time will tell.⌛


It's pretty simple here in Europe.. Mercury based lamps will be phased out by 2024. Epson might release lamp based pros in other parts of the world though, but it is the end of the line for mercury lamps in Europe.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Tsunamijhoe said:


> It's pretty simple here in Europe.. Mercury based lamps will be phased out by 2024. Epson might release lamp based pros in other parts of the world though, but it is the end of the line for mercury lamps in Europe.


Not so simple here in the US. I'm sure Big Mercury will pay off some politicians and we'll be using mercury-based lamps for centuries to come.


----------



## jaredmwright

rk9flame said:


> Just got a 5050ub and am very pleased with it! Just wanted to share my experience so far and maybe get some input.
> 
> I was having issues with judder that I was hoping would not be an issue coming from my older $600 projector. 60Hz content was fine, but 24Hz looked pretty rough. Running with an Apple TV 4k, I assumed the projector would automatically process the pulldown to 24Hz, like my Sony LED TV, but that didn't appear to be the case. After turning match frame rate on, I was able to get true 24Hz to the projector and it looks fantastic.
> I have never experienced an HDR image that looks better than SDR. Not even on my Sony 900E (which has been found to be poor at handling HDR). I tried as best I could to get an HDR image to be calibrated correctly to appear bright, vivid, and not washed out, but wasn't able to. The closest I got was in Natural mode, with high fan speed, and the HDR slider around 6 or 7. I thought I got there, but as soon as I went back to SDR in Digital Theater mode, everything looked better than the HDR scene. Auto Iris set to high in all modes. On top of that, the high fan speed was a bit too noisy since the projector is directly overhead. I'm probably just crazy and can't appreciate HDR properly, since I've never seen it calibrated well. I just can't seem to get a sense of what it should look like and calibrate it appropriately to look natural.
> Edit: Forgot to mention that remote is a BEAST. I love how unapologetically huge and user friendly it is.
> Everything else has exceeded my expectations, the colors, the black levels, the adjustability. Very pleased. I was also able to snag it for around $2,500 new (after various discounts), which makes me feel better than waiting for the $5,000 laser model.


I recommend looking into MadVR with VideoProcessor to really make this projector shine and possibly exceed the quality of HDR and picture of much more expensive projectors with built in tone mapping. It really wakes up the image, although it requires investment and tweaking to get dialed in. Once you do, it is pretty hands off and you can enjoy it.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

PixelPusher15 said:


> Not so simple here in the US. I'm sure Big Mercury will pay off some politicians and we'll be using mercury-based lamps for centuries to come.


Yeah, which is why i stressed only in eu in both my posts.
But from an r&d standpoint, do you think epson would develop projectors that was only allowed in certain areas of the world? Or is it more likely they will continue with laser/led world wide models going forward? Cinema mofel projectors, not cheap presentation models is what I am referring to. 

This phase out has been coming awhile, i just didn't know about it. UHP lamps should have been phased out in 2021 in EU,on an exemption to the law, so the manufacturers must have gotten another extension until 2024.


----------



## jaredmwright

Double post, deleting


----------



## PixelPusher15

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Yeah, which is why i stressed only in eu in both my posts.
> But from an r&d standpoint, do you think epson would develop projectors that was only allowed in certain areas of the world? Or is it more likely they will continue with laser/led world wide models going forward? Cinema mofel projectors, not cheap presentation models is what I am referring to.
> 
> This phase out has been coming awhile, i just didn't know about it. UHP lamps should have been phased out in 2021 in EU,on an exemption to the law, so the manufacturers must have gotten another extension until 2024.


My expectation is that all projectors are headed for LED/Laser. I’m sure there’s reasons to keep some lamp models longer than others, just like in any phase out situation. I’m not as worried as you are about laser models not being fixable/replaceable. Eventually I imagine there will be repair shops for this stuff. I think the only reason there won’t be is if TVs get large enough that projectors are just a tiny market and there’s not much money to be made in repairing them.


----------



## Gnevos

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Yeah, double the price of the 6050/9400 here almost, for a device that will have no used value and be landfill/recycle ready after 4-5 years, if you use the projector as much as i do.
> No thank you. I will scoop up another 9400 before they go out of production by 2024.


Wouldn't you be creating more landfill waste by going through 8-10 lamps in the same amount of time? The value of the projector will also depreciate regardless of tech. So the Epson 5050 will probably go for $1-1.5k in 5 years and if you subtract the amount you spent on lamps you kind of come out near a net zero. 

I think Laser projectors will just start to dim after 20-30k hours not completely go out. So laser isn't actually that bad. Just expensive for now. In 5 years we'll probably have the LS-12000 performance under $3k. In the same way true 4k projectors have dropped from $10k 5 years ago to closer to $5-6k.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

PixelPusher15 said:


> My expectation is that all projectors are headed for LED/Laser. I’m sure there’s reasons to keep some lamp models longer than others, just like in any phase out situation. I’m not as worried as you are about laser models not being fixable/replaceable. Eventually I imagine there will be repair shops for this stuff. I think the only reason there won’t be is if TVs get large enough that projectors are just a tiny market and there’s not much money to be made in repairing them.


Projectors are already a niche market. There are no repair shops for electronics in my country other than a few central ones used by the large chain stores.
Hence why i am worried. Also, lasers are controlled devices, and epson wrote me the light engine could not be replaced, so i have a giid foundation to worry. 

EU and US a very different


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Gnevos said:


> Wouldn't you be creating more landfill waste by going through 8-10 lamps in the same amount of time? The value of the projector will also depreciate regardless of tech. So the Epson 5050 will probably go for $1-1.5k in 5 years and if you subtract the amount you spent on lamps you kind of come out near a net zero.
> 
> I think Laser projectors will just start to dim after 20-30k hours not completely go out. So laser isn't actually that bad. Just expensive for now. In 5 years we'll probably have the LS-12000 performance under $3k. In the same way true 4k projectors have dropped from $10k 5 years ago to closer to $5-6k.


First, my country has one of the most effective recycle / waste management systems in the world, second, HUGE difference discarding lamps and re-sell a used projector to having to discard a fully functioning device because it is engineered to be non-exchangable and have 0 used resale value.

And if reported lamp life follows same standard as previously, the 20k hours is when laser will be at 50% output, not when it starts to dim.

I don't know, and epson have been sketchy about it. I doubt they have been running a laser unit for 20k hours in a lab prior to retail models, if they had more knowledge about the life expectancy might be found. 
Time will tell how long these devices actually last. My bet is Epson are counting on people replacing their devices every 3-5 years so very few users will experience eol on the devices.


----------



## WynsWrld98

jaredmwright said:


> I recommend looking into MadVR with VideoProcessor to really make this projector shine and possibly exceed the quality of HDR and picture of much more expensive projectors with built in tone mapping. It really wakes up the image, although it requires investment and tweaking to get dialed in. Once you do, it is pretty hands off and you can enjoy it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


But doesn't work with streaming


----------



## PixelPusher15

WynsWrld98 said:


> But doesn't work with streaming


With VideoProcessor and a DeckLink capture card it does.


----------



## jaredmwright

WynsWrld98 said:


> But doesn't work with streaming


Yes it does, any HDMI input can be processed, similar to a Lumagen. It is not PC based only. I use Nvidia Shield Pro, Blu-ray and TiVo for example.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Gnevos

Tsunamijhoe said:


> First, my country has one of the most effective recycle / waste management systems in the world, second, HUGE difference discarding lamps and re-sell a used projector to having to discard a fully functioning device because it is engineered to be non-exchangable and have 0 used resale value.
> 
> And if reported lamp life follows same standard as previously, the 20k hours is when laser will be at 50% output, not when it starts to dim.
> 
> I don't know, and epson have been sketchy about it. I doubt they have been running a laser unit for 20k hours in a lab prior to retail models, if they had more knowledge about the life expectancy might be found.
> Time will tell how long these devices actually last. My bet is Epson are counting on people replacing their devices every 3-5 years so very few users will experience eol on the devices.


Is there really though? You're really gonna tell me that manufacturing 10 separate lamps and then shipping them to your doorstep is more eco friendly than just recycling one projector? Not to mention the slight power draw difference between Laser and Lamp. 

I totally get the resale part of it. But like I said before, with depreciation minus lamp costs, you're really only getting back a few hundred dollars if that. I can't see someone jumping at the chance to buy a 5 year old Epson 5050 with 20-30k hours on it. In 2017 a JVC RS420 went for $4k new. It now sells for $1.5k used with 1800hrs on it. So yours would probably go for even less than that.


----------



## WynsWrld98

jaredmwright said:


> Yes it does, any HDMI input can be processed, similar to a Lumagen. It is not PC based only. I use Nvidia Shield Pro, Blu-ray and TiVo for example.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I've read you cannot do streaming such as, Netflix HDR with MadVr on a PC. You're saying this isn't true?


----------



## PixelPusher15

WynsWrld98 said:


> I've read you cannot do streaming such as, Netflix HDR with MadVr on a PC. You're saying this isn't true?


website: VideoProcessor
AVS thread:








VideoProcessor


VideoProcessor turns a computer into a 4k HDR capable live video processor by connecting a video capture card to a renderer and taking care of details such as conversion, timing and HDR metadata. This allows advanced renderers to do things like 3D LUT, HDR tone mapping, scaling, deinterlacing...




www.avsforum.com





It 100% can with additional hardware and this free software.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Gnevos said:


> Is there really though? You're really gonna tell me that manufacturing 10 separate lamps and then shipping them to your doorstep is more eco friendly than just recycling one projector? Not to mention the slight power draw difference between Laser and Lamp.
> 
> I totally get the resale part of it. But like I said before, with depreciation minus lamp costs, you're really only getting back a few hundred dollars if that. I can't see someone jumping at the chance to buy a 5 year old Epson 5050 with 20-30k hours on it. In 2017 a JVC RS420 went for $4k new. It now sells for $1.5k used with 1800hrs on it. So yours would probably go for even less than that.


But that is the whole point.. WHY recycle a perfectly working device? It is a waste of resources when there isn't a reason it has to be like this. This is what bothers me, not so much the comparable cost in operation.
Imagine if you had to recycle your car because the tires were worn out,wouldn't you think that was a waste? Lamps are considered a similar product to tires, or ink cartridges for your printer,a exchangable usage commodity. A laser projector is a throw-away type product that has no place in this day and age..

Now,if Epson were to state the light engine could be replaced at a reasonable price at a service center, then it would be a whole other discussion, but they haven't.. And from what they wrote me, they do not consider this a problem because users like me are not the norm.. I get a "normal" user would probably have this projector last anywhere from 8 to 12 maybe 14 years,but i do not see a single user having this device that long,and this is what Epson is counting on.. Just like canon and their cheap printers where replacing it is cheaper than buying new ink cartridges.. I won't tell you what i think of this practise by the way..

Besides, US and my neck of the woods are very different places. Yes i would be able to sell a 9400 at a decent price because you can make it perform like new with a lamp replacement. Of course there are variables like device age and such, but we have a very active second hand market because everything is so damn expensive here.

I would also NEVER on my life buy a used electric car or bike, for exactly the same reason as the laser projectors 0 resale value.
At least not until you can replace the batteries at a reasonable price.


----------



## CalabiYau007

One question about the 6050.

I have read that fluidity is not the best. Does it handle 24p properly?

In my case I like the cinematic feeling that pure 24hz delivers. The first thing that I remove in a TV is the interpolation that causes the soap opera effect. To off. Not even the minimum.

So if the fluidity problem is that it can't add extra frames at 4k, I'll be good with that as long as 24Hz view is nice.

My old 1080p DLP handles it pretty well...

Thanks!


----------



## Gnevos

Tsunamijhoe said:


> But that is the whole point.. WHY recycle a perfectly working device? It is a waste of resources when there isn't a reason it has to be like this. This is what bothers me, not so much the comparable cost in operation.
> Imagine if you had to recycle your car because the tires were worn out,wouldn't you think that was a waste? Lamps are considered a similar product to tires, or ink cartridges for your printer,a exchangable usage commodity. A laser projector is a throw-away type product that has no place in this day and age..
> 
> Now,if Epson were to state the light engine could be replaced at a reasonable price at a service center, then it would be a whole other discussion, but they haven't.. And from what they wrote me, they do not consider this a problem because users like me are not the norm.. I get a "normal" user would probably have this projector last anywhere from 8 to 12 maybe 14 years,but i do not see a single user having this device that long,and this is what Epson is counting on.. Just like canon and their cheap printers where replacing it is cheaper than buying new ink cartridges.. I won't tell you what i think of this practise by the way..
> 
> Besides, US and my neck of the woods are very different places. Yes i would be able to sell a 9400 at a decent price because you can make it perform like new with a lamp replacement. Of course there are variables like device age and such, but we have a very active second hand market because everything is so damn expensive here.
> 
> I would also NEVER on my life buy a used electric car or bike, for exactly the same reason as the laser projectors 0 resale value.
> At least not until you can replace the batteries at a reasonable price.


Your resale point still doesn't make sense since the price of bulbs will scale with the price of used projectors. 

I agree that this one will probably be the worst one to try and repair. But there WILL be a way to do it either official or DIY. In the same way there were unofficial ways to replace batteries in the first electric cars and bikes. That said I am mostly on your side in NOT getting the LS12000. But mostly because like you said there are a bunch of unknowns that even Epson hasn't accounted for. It's early adopter tech so the people that buy are comfortable with the risk. 

That said in 8-12 years I think TVs will finally surpass projectors in price to size and portability. We'll probably have rollable 100" QD-OLEDs at the same price as the current LS12000.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Gnevos said:


> Your resale point still doesn't make sense since the price of bulbs will scale with the price of used projectors.
> 
> I agree that this one will probably be the worst one to try and repair. But there WILL be a way to do it either official or DIY. In the same way there were unofficial ways to replace batteries in the first electric cars and bikes. That said I am mostly on your side in NOT getting the LS12000. But mostly because like you said there are a bunch of unknowns that even Epson hasn't accounted for. It's early adopter tech so the people that buy are comfortable with the risk.
> 
> That said in 8-12 years I think TVs will finally surpass projectors in price to size and portability. We'll probably have rollable 100" QD-OLEDs at the same price as the current LS12000.


A guy can still get a lot of use out of a 5 year old lamp pj with lamps as cheap as the epsons are here, a 5 year old laser is practically worthless.
I wont hold my breath about repair/replacement light engine, unless they are forced under some right to repair legislation, if they were contemplating this, they would have designed it so already.. Also Epson refused to disclose how much a replacement would cost if it was sent in to a service provider. And lastly, laser are controlled devices, not everyone can buy them. 

Large screen tvs have several disadvantages, their size and not being able to put speakers behind them. I don't see them solving that and keep a reasonable price within 10 years..
But time will tell.
One thing the ban on mercury lamps will do, is make the new tech like lasers cheaper over time as more companies will adopt the tech.
That said, is there a reason they don't use led in these projectors?


----------



## biglen

jaredmwright said:


> Yes it does, any HDMI input can be processed, similar to a Lumagen. It is not PC based only. I use Nvidia Shield Pro, Blu-ray and TiVo for example.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


How are you doing tone mapping with the Shield ?


----------



## Kieran

CalabiYau007 said:


> One question about the 6050.
> 
> I have read that fluidity is not the best. Does it handle 24p properly?
> 
> In my case I like the cinematic feeling that pure 24hz delivers. The first thing that I remove in a TV is the interpolation that causes the soap opera effect. To off. Not even the minimum.
> 
> So if the fluidity problem is that it can't add extra frames at 4k, I'll be good with that as long as 24Hz view is nice.
> 
> My old 1080p DLP handles it pretty well...
> 
> Thanks!


I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "fluidity"... Typically if a display can handle 24Hz content (or 23.97Hz) and it is fed a good signal, then there shouldn't be any "judder" (if that's what you're talking about) as there's no framerate pulldown processing of the video happening. The issue typically comes up when you have content that is not native 24Hz content, but is displayed on a 24Hz display mode, or vice-versa content that _is_ 24Hz being displayed on a 30 or 60 Hz display mode. This frame-rate mismatch requires either 3:2 or 2:3 frame pulldown to be performed, and this if done poorly (and even when done well, for some eagle eyed viewers) results in "judder" where extra frames inserted in order to make up the mathematical differences cause motion to appear less than perfectly smooth.

So, if you're seeing this, and your TV supports 24Hz modes, then the problem is with your source player. If your display does not support 24Hz modes, then the problem is with your display as it attempts to convert the 24Hz input signal to a 30 or 60 Hz signal. Epson projectors, as far as I've seen, are able to handle several 24Hz modes, so the issue if it happens will likely be with your source, not the Epson.


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "fluidity"... Typically if a display can handle 24Hz content (or 23.97Hz) and it is fed a good signal, then there shouldn't be any "judder" (if that's what you're talking about) as there's no framerate pulldown processing of the video happening. The issue typically comes up when you have content that is not native 24Hz content, but is displayed on a 24Hz display mode, or vice-versa content that _is_ 24Hz being displayed on a 30 or 60 Hz display mode. This frame-rate mismatch requires either 3:2 or 2:3 frame pulldown to be performed, and this if done poorly (and even when done well, for some eagle eyed viewers) results in "judder" where extra frames inserted in order to make up the mathematical differences cause motion to appear less than perfectly smooth.
> 
> So, if you're seeing this, and your TV supports 24Hz modes, then the problem is with your source player. If your display does not support 24Hz modes, then the problem is with your display as it attempts to convert the 24Hz input signal to a 30 or 60 Hz signal. Epson projectors, as far as I've seen, are able to handle several 24Hz modes, so the issue if it happens will likely be with your source, not the Epson.


Are you saying that the judder I'm seeing on panning scenes or the indiscernible lettering on road signs through car windows as characters drive by them are a result of inefficient processing of the stream from my Roku, the discs in my Panasonic 820 and my other source players?


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> How are you doing tone mapping with the Shield ?


Check out VideoProcessor Start there and use the associated Forum on here dedicated to it for more information.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## rk9flame

fredworld said:


> Are you saying that the judder I'm seeing on panning scenes or the indiscernible lettering on road signs through car windows as characters drive by them are a result of inefficient processing of the stream from my Roku, the discs in my Panasonic 820 and my other source players?


I think the Roku's have had issues passing through 24Hz instead of upscaling to 60. So that may be the issue. You might have to toggle some settings. Might want to also double check if your Panasonic 820 24p setting is set to auto. Check the status menu on your Epson when streaming to see if it is actually receiving a 24Hz signal.


----------



## rk9flame

_double post_ Delete.


----------



## fredworld

rk9flame said:


> I think the Roku's have had issues passing through 24Hz instead of upscaling to 60. So that may be the issue. You might have to toggle some settings. Might want to also double check if your Panasonic 820 24p setting is set to auto. Check the status menu on your Epson when streaming to see if it is actually receiving a 24Hz signal.


Thanks for that. My Roku scales to 60hz. the Panny is set to auto and the Epson gets 24hz depending on the source, e.g. if it's Netflix then 60hz. The judder is always there in pans as described earlier. I've gotten accustomed to it and can ignore it for the most part. I had a go around with Epson about it some time ago and they suggested using a 1080p signal with Frame Interpolation (!).
My question to @Kieran regarding his stated reasons about the source being the issue was meant to imply that it's more related to the Epson, although the sources can exacerbate judder.


----------



## Enchy

fredworld said:


> My Roku scales to 60hz or 24hz depending on the stream, the Panny is set to auto and the Epson gets 24hz depending on the source, e.g. if it's Netflix then 60hz. The judder is always there in pans as described earlier. I've gotten accustomed to it and can ignore it for the most part. I had a go around with Epson about it some time ago and they suggested using a 1080p signal with Frame Interpolation (!).
> My question to @Kieran regarding his stated reasons about the source being the issue was meant to imply that it's more related to the Epson, although the sources can exacerbate judder.


The Roku Ultra is pretty hit or miss with 24p output. Disney+ is always 60Hz so you get a pulldown and it's awful. Vudu is 24Hz. I tend to watch digital Disney movies via Vudu for that reason.


----------



## ricwhite

I discussed with Epson projector technical support the need to "break in" new bulbs by running them for 100 or so hours on high and they said that was not necessary. That is likely why a "break in" period is not suggested or recommended in the manual and why the default setting is set to medium. I know that there have been several people that suggested to "break in" new bulbs by running them at high for at least 100 hours, but the technicians that work on the Epson projectors do not think that is necessary. I have never "broken in" bulbs before and all the bulbs that I used didn't have any issues and seemed to have normal lifespans. Before I swapped projectors, my 6010 had over 2400 hours on the bulb and still stable and strong. It was never "broken in." But I wanted to ask an actual technician at Epson since that recommendation is sometimes posted on these forums. Since fresh bulbs tend to be the brightest, most projector uses might run them on a lower setting initially and Epson technicians think that's fine.


----------



## fredworld

ricwhite said:


> I discussed with Epson projector technical support the need to "break in" new bulbs by running them for 100 or so hours on high and they said that was not necessary. That is likely why a "break in" period is not suggested or recommended in the manual and why the default setting is set to medium. I know that there have been several people that suggested to "break in" new bulbs by running them at high for at least 100 hours, but the technicians that work on the Epson projectors do not think that is necessary. I have never "broken in" bulbs before and all the bulbs that I used didn't have any issues and seemed to have normal lifespans. Before I swapped projectors, my 6010 had over 2400 hours on the bulb and still stable and strong. It was never "broken in." But I wanted to ask an actual technician at Epson since that recommendation is sometimes posted on these forums. Since fresh bulbs tend to be the brightest, most projector uses might run them on a lower setting initially and Epson technicians think that's fine.


I don't doubt Epson's position nor your reporting. Having been one to experience the dreaded flicker myself and the amount of reporting on flickering lamp performance on the net, a reasonable conclusion is that a symptom of a defective lamp is the development of flicker after an undetermined amount of use (I think mine began after 800 hours in ECO mode) within the warranty. Once the defect is confirmed Epson replaces the lamp. This is not to deny that a flicker that MIGHT develop in any random lamp can not be minimized via a break-in process.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> I think the only reason there won’t be is if TVs get large enough that projectors are just a tiny market and there’s not much money to be made in repairing them.


I've never seen a PJ as a large TV replacement though. They're quite different tech and use case to me. Sure i'll watch some high end series on my PJ, but i wouldn't just use it for casual watching as per a TV. 
I _MUCH_ prefer the projected image for watching films!

Also if you get a 100-120" TV they'll be massive, unwieldy and really tricky to get buy/ship/move and probably really fragile too. Oh and we're also back to burn in / image retention on OLEDs


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> I've never seen a PJ as a large TV replacement though. They're quite different tech and use case to me. Sure i'll watch some high end series on my PJ, but i wouldn't just use it for casual watching as per a TV.
> I _MUCH_ prefer the projected image for watching films!
> 
> Also if you get a 100-120" TV they'll be massive, unwieldy and really tricky to get buy/ship/move and probably really fragile too. Oh and we're also back to burn in / image retention on OLEDs


My belief is that once TVs are 100" and under $5k there will be a huge hit to the projector market. People that once might have been the eventual projector buyer will instead just build a media room around the 100" TV. 

There's also rollable OLEDs and microLED walls that could be future solutions for the logistics issues. I just don't see projectors being what they are in 15-20 years.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> My belief is that once TVs are 100" and under $5k there will be a huge hit to the projector market. People that once might have been the eventual projector buyer will instead just build a media room around the 100" TV.
> 
> There's also rollable OLEDs and microLED walls that could be future solutions for the logistics issues. I just don't see projectors being what they are in 1k5-20 years.


Ok, I'll play. The perfecting of seamless segmental ultra thin imaging panels will doom all TVs and projectors. Configuring such panels similarly as 16:9, 2.35:1, etc., could provide an installation with the necessary variety for all aspect ratios. When?


----------



## ricwhite

I have wall space for up to 110 inches. I currently have a 106" screen. I was actually looking at the TCL 98" flat panel but decided against it. Most of my viewing is sports and streaming shows on Netflix and Amazon. About 20% is movies. I would switch to a flat panel if they were a little larger and a little less expensive. It's getting close. If I could get a 100-110 inch flat panel for under $6,000 or so, I would likely switch to flat panel. I think there are a lot of projector users with under 120 inch screens that will eventually do the same.


----------



## Enchy

My only hangup switching to a flat panel would be center channel placement. I'd hope that lower end receivers will eventually be able to process dual center speakers (above and below the screen) like trinnovs and storm processors can. To properly place a 100+ inch screen your center will be way too high or way too low.


----------



## ricwhite

Enchy said:


> My only hangup switching to a flat panel would be center channel placement. I'd hope that lower end receivers will eventually be able to process dual center speakers (above and below the screen) like trinnovs and storm processors can. To properly place a 100+ inch screen your center will be way too high or way too low.


My center speaker is directly below my 106" screen and if I got a flat panel, it would stay in exactly the same spot. I have never been bothered by that location but I can see how some can be bothered by that. Some have transparent screens with speakers behind and, obviously, that won't work with flat panels. I think any good flat panel will outperform even the best projectors with image quality - especially if there's any ambient lighting.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> My only hangup switching to a flat panel would be center channel placement. I'd hope that lower end receivers will eventually be able to process dual center speakers (above and below the screen) like trinnovs and storm processors can. To properly place a 100+ inch screen your center will be way too high or way too low.


I'd just run two and deal with the comb filtering. I'd bet it's a fine tradeoff for a much simpler install with true HDR.

That's easy to say though when I'm not actually looking to do it. I just sent a dude some money to "upgrade" to an RS540 so I'm here in the projector game for a while longer.


----------



## Enchy

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'd just run two and deal with the comb filtering. I'd bet it's a fine tradeoff for a much simpler install with true HDR.
> 
> That's easy to say though when I'm not actually looking to do it. I just sent a dude some money to "upgrade" to an RS540 so I'm here in the projector game for a while longer.


Yeah it's pretty simple to do with just splitting the pre-outs to two speakers, but my understanding is the higher end processors do time alignment wizardry for the two speakers to minimize issues. Would be nice to see that in mid-range stuff if/when the demand gets there.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Enchy said:


> Yeah it's pretty simple to do with just splitting the pre-outs to two speakers, but my understanding is the higher end processors do time alignment wizardry for the two speakers to minimize issues. Would be nice to see that in mid-range stuff if/when the demand gets there.


Sounds like a miniDSP could probably handle it for a couple hundo..


----------



## Sakic

I bought a refurb ~11 months ago and I’m wondering if this is a defect or if the lens needs cleaning?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Sakic said:


> I bought a refurb ~11 months ago and I’m wondering if this is a defect or if the lens needs cleaning?
> 
> View attachment 3241186


Dusty dust blob. Ask Epson for a replacement and hope you get a good one 🤞


----------



## dane10

I've seen some conflicting info on how this projector handles 24p content. Can it handle 4K 24p without a 3:2 pulldown? Or can it only do 24p without a pulldown for 1080p or with pixel shift off?
Dan


----------



## kartsound

I updated my 5040UB yesterday with 5050UB.


When I connect, ATV directly to 5050UB @ HDR/30 Hz, I see the display (at 50Hz or 60 Hz I get "no signal", may be HDMI needs to be replaced)
When I connect, ATV --> AMV60 --> Epson 5050UB @ HDR/30 Hz or even at @ SDR/30 Hz, I get "no signal", *any idea*? 

Hmm... really sad that I can't experience the beauty of the new projector.
I checked Anthem AVM60 spec and it says all these great things...

Anthem® | AVM 60 | Overview (anthemav.com)

*HDMI & Video*
HDMI 2.0a
HDCP 2.2
*4:4:4 Subsampling at 4K60 (18.2 Gbps)*
*High Dynamic Range (HDR)*
Dolby Vision™ Compatible
Hybrid Log Gamma (HLG)
BT.2020 Color Gamut
On-Screen Display with 4K 50/60
*4K 50/60 Switching*

*PS: I don't know why i can't search within this sub-topic anymore? Do I need premium membership?*


----------



## meski7

kartsound said:


> may be HDMI needs to be replaced


You're spot-on here. Get a new cable and enjoy! And you might as well get 2 cables so you know that you're good: ATV -> new cable -> AVR -> new cable -> 5050ub


----------



## rekbones

kartsound said:


> I updated my 5040UB yesterday with 5050UB.
> 
> 
> When I connect, ATV directly to 5050UB @ HDR/30 Hz, I see the display (at 50Hz or 60 Hz I get "no signal", may be HDMI needs to be replaced)
> When I connect, ATV --> AMV60 --> Epson 5050UB @ HDR/30 Hz or even at @ SDR/30 Hz, I get "no signal", *any idea*?
> 
> Hmm... really sad that I can't experience the beauty of the new projector.
> I checked Anthem AVM60 spec and it says all these great things...
> 
> Anthem® | AVM 60 | Overview (anthemav.com)
> 
> *HDMI & Video*
> HDMI 2.0a
> HDCP 2.2
> *4:4:4 Subsampling at 4K60 (18.2 Gbps)*
> *High Dynamic Range (HDR)*
> Dolby Vision™ Compatible
> Hybrid Log Gamma (HLG)
> BT.2020 Color Gamut
> On-Screen Display with 4K 50/60
> *4K 50/60 Switching*
> 
> *PS: I don't know why i can't search within this sub-topic anymore? Do I need premium membership?*


In the menu check this setting under "signal" "advanced" "EDID" is set to expanded.


----------



## maidez

PixelPusher15 said:


> With VideoProcessor and a DeckLink capture card it does.


I don’t understand this part. The VideoProcessor page stresses that the capture card doesn’t work with HDCP protected data. I thought that video sources like a Fire Stick or TiVo, etc (or the output of an AVR) would have this protection. Does the DeckLink card somehow make unprotected video available for processing? I’ve started wading through the 70+ page VideoProcessor thread, but I’m missing this key point.

Given the current price and scarcity of video cards (not to mention the perceived lack of enthusiasm from the rest of the family for reintroducing a HTPC back into the display chain) this is mostly curiosity, but I just might need a new time sink on short notice…


----------



## PixelPusher15

maidez said:


> I don’t understand this part. The VideoProcessor page stresses that the capture card doesn’t work with HDCP protected data. I thought that video sources like a Fire Stick or TiVo, etc (or the output of an AVR) would have this protection. Does the DeckLink card somehow make unprotected video available for processing? I’ve started wading through the 70+ page VideoProcessor thread, but I’m missing this key point.
> 
> Given the current price and scarcity of video cards (not to mention the perceived lack of enthusiasm from the rest of the family for reintroducing a HTPC back into the display chain) this is mostly curiosity, but I just might need a new time sink on short notice…


A cheap HDMI splitter or an HD Fury device can handle the HDCP.


----------



## DigitalAV

My personal issues with madVR were occasional frame drops (nvidia's fault, amd somewhat better, only Envy can buffer those out at 5x-8x the cost) and garish oversaturated colors in certain HDR conditions -- led me to give up & grab a used Lumagen, never looked back


----------



## maidez

PixelPusher15 said:


> A cheap HDMI splitter or an HD Fury device can handle the HDCP.


Still not not sure I’m getting it, but first rule of HD Fury club?


----------



## jaredmwright

maidez said:


> Still not not sure I’m getting it, but first rule of HD Fury club?


If you use an AMD GPU, you can disable HDCP in the software settings. I do this and do not need a splitter, I output from my receiver into Deck Link capture card directly and all sources switch and work properly. I also have tried with a splitter and it works similarly in removing the HDCP.



Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

kartsound said:


> When I connect, ATV directly to 5050UB @ HDR/30 Hz, I see the display (at 50Hz or 60 Hz I get "no signal", may be HDMI needs to be replaced)


9/10 issues with getting an image on this PJ are cable related. An optical HDMI cable is the recommended fix for "longer" runs. 60hz, 4K, HDR needs 18gb, you can drop one of these to get an image in the short term.

Use the menu projector info tab to see what your projector is receiving. A lot of the time processors and players upscale to 4k and often 60hz - You're generally best at 4k, 24p on the projector and the ATV is great at source matching, which is why I use it


----------



## ricwhite

I'm confused by the "Auto Iris" on the 5050UB. I view most content in the "Digital Cinema" mode. I spent some time the other day switching between Off, Normal, High Speed of the iris and could not see ANY difference whatsoever on the screen. I couldn't hear any indication that an iris was active. Is there some way to actively test it because I see absolutely no difference between "off" and "high speed" with ANY content on the screen. I keep reading about how good the dynamic iris is on the 5050UB but I see no effect at all.


----------



## PixelPusher15

ricwhite said:


> I'm confused by the "Auto Iris" on the 5050UB. I view most content in the "Digital Cinema" mode. I spent some time the other day switching between Off, Normal, High Speed of the iris and could not see ANY difference whatsoever on the screen. I couldn't hear any indication that an iris was active. Is there some way to actively test it because I see absolutely no difference between "off" and "high speed" with ANY content on the screen. I keep reading about how good the dynamic iris is on the 5050UB but I see no effect at all.


Watch something like the expanse on Prime to test


----------



## rk9flame

ricwhite said:


> I'm confused by the "Auto Iris" on the 5050UB. I view most content in the "Digital Cinema" mode. I spent some time the other day switching between Off, Normal, High Speed of the iris and could not see ANY difference whatsoever on the screen. I couldn't hear any indication that an iris was active. Is there some way to actively test it because I see absolutely no difference between "off" and "high speed" with ANY content on the screen. I keep reading about how good the dynamic iris is on the 5050UB but I see no effect at all.


I also run Digital Cinema with High Speed Iris, and I see/hear the iris moving. A simple test is to move between a really bright image and dark image with no sound happening. It's pretty subtle, but it does brighten and darken based on the content. The sound is not audible when audio is playing.


----------



## rekbones

ricwhite said:


> I'm confused by the "Auto Iris" on the 5050UB. I view most content in the "Digital Cinema" mode. I spent some time the other day switching between Off, Normal, High Speed of the iris and could not see ANY difference whatsoever on the screen. I couldn't hear any indication that an iris was active. Is there some way to actively test it because I see absolutely no difference between "off" and "high speed" with ANY content on the screen. I keep reading about how good the dynamic iris is on the 5050UB but I see no effect at all.


On mine set on high I really see it active in fade to black. Like with credits on a black background the screen will go completely black and you can clearly see the black background fade to gray when a white credit pops up. If your not in a light controlled bat cave where the black floor of the room is higher than the projector your likely to not notice anything.


----------



## Michaeldef

kartsound said:


> I updated my 5040UB yesterday with 5050UB.
> 
> 
> When I connect, ATV directly to 5050UB @ HDR/30 Hz, I see the display (at 50Hz or 60 Hz I get "no signal", may be HDMI needs to be replaced)
> When I connect, ATV --> AMV60 --> Epson 5050UB @ HDR/30 Hz or even at @ SDR/30 Hz, I get "no signal", *any idea*?
> 
> Hmm... really sad that I can't experience the beauty of the new projector.
> I checked Anthem AVM60 spec and it says all these great things...
> 
> Anthem® | AVM 60 | Overview (anthemav.com)
> 
> *HDMI & Video*
> HDMI 2.0a
> HDCP 2.2
> *4:4:4 Subsampling at 4K60 (18.2 Gbps)*
> *High Dynamic Range (HDR)*
> Dolby Vision™ Compatible
> Hybrid Log Gamma (HLG)
> BT.2020 Color Gamut
> On-Screen Display with 4K 50/60
> *4K 50/60 Switching*
> 
> *PS: I don't know why i can't search within this sub-topic anymore? Do I need premium membership?*


Same here with new 6050, tried many newer $$$ cables non worked, The Monoprice Cabernet series cable work flawlessly and cheapest by far 50 bucks for 50 ft.


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> Thanks for that. My Roku scales to 60hz. the Panny is set to auto and the Epson gets 24hz depending on the source, e.g. if it's Netflix then 60hz. The judder is always there in pans as described earlier. I've gotten accustomed to it and can ignore it for the most part. I had a go around with Epson about it some time ago and they suggested using a 1080p signal with Frame Interpolation (!).
> My question to @Kieran regarding his stated reasons about the source being the issue was meant to imply that it's more related to the Epson, although the sources can exacerbate judder.


I don't think the setups you've described clearly implicate the Epson. Every one of the sources you described is doing a 2:3 pulldown before sending a signal to the Epson.

What I'm saying is that if you have a 24 fps source (e.g. film movie on blu-ray) and your blu-ray player can properly extract 24fps from the disc and send it without judder to the Epson, then the Epson will play that without judder, since the Epson can accept and display a 24 fps image (and thus not have to do any pulldown processing).

It's IMPOSSIBLE to know where the problem lies with streaming video; is it the STB's own chipset? Is it the source media from Netflix/Prime/etc? Is it the TV/display (this is easier to rule out)? Does one's internet speed affect things (most certainly yes but how?) This has been a thorn in the side of video testers and reviewers since streaming actually became a viable thing (remember when Vudu required you to order & start downloading your movie several hours before you planned to watch it? LOL just 12-ish years ago!) We can't test the video codecs in a streaming box, so we can't benchmark them and say how or why or if their processing is correct (or incorrect). I've asked Stacey Spears in the past to provide a digital version of his tests, that we could at least stream locally on our own networks via Plex or Kodi to test the video chips in various streaming boxes that support those apps. He hasn't jumped on that idea yet, in all his free time.  He gave me permission to try to rip some of the content just for this purpose, but warned me that it likely wouldn't work, and he was right.  

Anyway judder can be caused by lots of things and if the source is streaming it's a black-box. I don't think we can for sure blame the Epson for any of it. Regardless even with the most perfect video path, if there's a pulldown process somewhere, there will be judder; there's no way to avoid that. Good disc spinners should be able to pull out the 24fps video without doing pulldown, if the video was flagged correctly. This, combined with a display that supports a native 24fps mode, is the only time you will experience truly judder-free movies.


----------



## fredworld

Kieran said:


> I don't think the setups you've described clearly implicate the Epson. Every one of the sources you described is doing a 2:3 pulldown before sending a signal to the Epson.
> 
> What I'm saying is that if you have a 24 fps source (e.g. film movie on blu-ray) and your blu-ray player can properly extract 24fps from the disc and send it without judder to the Epson, then the Epson will play that without judder, since the Epson can accept and display a 24 fps image (and thus not have to do any pulldown processing).
> 
> It's IMPOSSIBLE to know where the problem lies with streaming video; is it the STB's own chipset? Is it the source media from Netflix/Prime/etc? Is it the TV/display (this is easier to rule out)? Does one's internet speed affect things (most certainly yes but how?) This has been a thorn in the side of video testers and reviewers since streaming actually became a viable thing (remember when Vudu required you to order & start downloading your movie several hours before you planned to watch it? LOL just 12-ish years ago!) We can't test the video codecs in a streaming box, so we can't benchmark them and say how or why or if their processing is correct (or incorrect). I've asked Stacey Spears in the past to provide a digital version of his tests, that we could at least stream locally on our own networks via Plex or Kodi to test the video chips in various streaming boxes that support those apps. He hasn't jumped on that idea yet, in all his free time.  He gave me permission to try to rip some of the content just for this purpose, but warned me that it likely wouldn't work, and he was right.
> 
> Anyway judder can be caused by lots of things and if the source is streaming it's a black-box. I don't think we can for sure blame the Epson for any of it. Regardless even with the most perfect video path, if there's a pulldown process somewhere, there will be judder; there's no way to avoid that. Good disc spinners should be able to pull out the 24fps video without doing pulldown, if the video was flagged correctly. This, combined with a display that supports a native 24fps mode, is the only time you will experience truly judder-free movies.


Kieran, thanks for taking the time with such a detailed explanation. I'm going to begin paying more attention to the fps of my sources. I'll begin by checking my disc players' settings and disc specs. My Roku is my only other source where judder is pronounced but even moreso.
Thanks again, as usual your willingness to share your knowledge and experience us very much appreciated.


----------



## Alaric

ricwhite said:


> I'm confused by the "Auto Iris" on the 5050UB. I view most content in the "Digital Cinema" mode. I spent some time the other day switching between Off, Normal, High Speed of the iris and could not see ANY difference whatsoever on the screen. I couldn't hear any indication that an iris was active. Is there some way to actively test it because I see absolutely no difference between "off" and "high speed" with ANY content on the screen. I keep reading about how good the dynamic iris is on the 5050UB but I see no effect at all.


The Iris have two settings which can be used together.
1 - Manual (0:-20), you can stopper down the Iris for less light and better contrast - Typically used for SDR. I'm on -4 to get 16fl
2 - Auto - This adjusts down depending on the scene and the overall brightness of the image. It tries to predict, but can be a bit slow (even on high) and you can get pulsing and some people complain of noise from it. I mainly tend to notice it doing it's job in credits, particularly if they are large white text, slowly scrolling, spread out on a black background, so you get a big difference between light and dark. 

Ideally not noticing it is an almost perfect situation! It you want to check it is working, mute the sound and change from a bright scene to a dark scene and you'll hear a motor moving it.

It is MOST aggressive in the Dynamic colour mode and appears to go darker too. One of the advantages of using a Dynamic Calibration setting, though the colours are less accurate and requires more work etc.


----------



## HTX^2steve

I have been in the background enjoying my Epson and just stumbled across the Pro Cinema LS12000. At first I was like wow awesome to have a laser 4k but then I saw that little number 1 in the specs.









Nice to see the progression with the projectors but as you all know with the chip/inventory/everything shortage going on our 5050's have shot up to MSRP and are staying strong there. Seeing that the LS12000 is released in this global mess is unfortunate and that it really isn't still a true 4k projector makes me happy with hopefully more years to come 5050!


----------



## PixelPusher15

HTX^2steve said:


> I have been in the background enjoying my Epson and just stumbled across the Pro Cinema LS12000. At first I was like wow awesome to have a laser 4k but then I saw that little number 1 in the specs.
> View attachment 3242661
> 
> 
> Nice to see the progression with the projectors but as you all know with the chip/inventory/everything shortage going on our 5050's have shot up to MSRP and are staying strong there. Seeing that the LS12000 is released in this global mess is unfortunate and that it really isn't still a true 4k projector makes me happy with hopefully more years to come 5050!


It's quad shift and all the reviews say it's an improvement and does a good job. If Epson went native this projector would cost way, way more. Also, going native would cut contrast by probably by half, just like we saw in JVC. I personally don't want Epson to go beyond this. It should be plenty sharp and will preserve contrast. It also will keep costs down so they can focus on more important features like RGB laser, adding back in a manual iris, and increasing lumen output.


----------



## WynsWrld98

PixelPusher15 said:


> It's quad shift and all the reviews say it's an improvement and does a good job. If Epson went native this projector would cost way, way more. Also, going native would cut contrast by probably by half, just like we saw in JVC. I personally don't want Epson to go beyond this. It should be plenty sharp and will preserve contrast. It also will keep costs down so they can focus on more important features like RGB laser, adding back in a manual iris, and increasing lumen output.


I keep reading comments it is less sharp than JVCs yet is sharper than the 5050 which serms odd.


----------



## PixelPusher15

WynsWrld98 said:


> I keep reading comments it is less sharp than JVCs yet is sharper than the 5050 which serms odd.


Why?

The 5050 is 2x shift, JVC is native. 4x shift should squarely fit between there. I've seen my 5050 against 2 native 4k projectors. I'd rather take DTM, larger color gamut, higher contrast, or more lumens over a sharper image. 

In the KC shootout resolution wasn't even a factor.


----------



## jaredmwright

PixelPusher15 said:


> Why?
> 
> The 5050 is 2x shift, JVC is native. 4x shift should squarely fit between there. I've seen my 5050 against 2 native 4k projectors. I'd rather take DTM, larger color gamut, higher contrast, or more lumens over a sharper image.
> 
> In the KC shootout resolution wasn't even a factor.


I thought with the latest firmware Epson is doing 3x shift? It definitely appears that way and much sharper and brighter after 1.0.3 firmware update. I think people get too caught up in specs sometimes. Trust your eyes and ignore the rest. Epson absolutely competes with true 4K IMHO. Obviously everyone's environment is unique, viewing distance, sensitivity, etc.., but in my viewing when setup properly my 6050ub is indistinguishable from a native 4K.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## DigitalAV

PixelPusher15 already said everything perfectly & all 4k pixels are individually addressable. It comes down to not fake 4k but rather your room, budget, & how much HDR you watch.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

I'm attempting to update the firmware is 1.04 the latest I guess 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

Brandon Kozuszek said:


> I'm attempting to update the firmware is 1.04 the latest I guess
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Yes, 104. And AFAIK, it only updates to HDMI 1. HDMI 2 will remain at 103 after the update completes.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

fredworld said:


> Yes, 104. And AFAIK, it only updates to HDMI 1. HDMI 2 will remain at 103 after the update completes.


Is that why video 2 still shows 103









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

Alaric said:


> The Iris have two settings which can be used together.
> 1 - Manual (0:-20), you can stopper down the Iris for less light and better contrast - Typically used for SDR. I'm on -4 to get 16fl
> 2 - Auto - This adjusts down depending on the scene and the overall brightness of the image. It tries to predict, but can be a bit slow (even on high) and you can get pulsing and some people complain of noise from it. I mainly tend to notice it doing it's job in credits, particularly if they are large white text, slowly scrolling, spread out on a black background, so you get a big difference between light and dark.
> 
> Ideally not noticing it is an almost perfect situation! It you want to check it is working, mute the sound and change from a bright scene to a dark scene and you'll hear a motor moving it.
> 
> It is MOST aggressive in the Dynamic colour mode and appears to go darker too. One of the advantages of using a Dynamic Calibration setting, though the colours are less accurate and requires more work etc.


I find that without any iris, the really dark scenes are just too light. There are enough dark scenes in what I watch, that I'm compelled to use the iris. I suspected that Dynamic might apply more iris closure, but the rest of its settings are just too far off for it to be enjoyable. I never tried to adjust it better. The question is, can Dynamic be adjusted well? I had the same thing on my old Sanyo, where its Dynamic had the best black level, but it was impossible to adjust it to satisfaction on anything else in Dynamic - no amount of range on certain parameters could ever make it look right. So I gave up on Dynamic there.


----------



## hms17B

jaredmwright said:


> I thought with the latest firmware Epson is doing 3x shift? It definitely appears that way and much sharper and brighter after 1.0.3 firmware update. I think people get too caught up in specs sometimes. Trust your eyes and ignore the rest. Epson absolutely competes with true 4K IMHO. Obviously everyone's environment is unique, viewing distance, sensitivity, etc.., but in my viewing when setup properly my 6050ub is indistinguishable from a native 4K.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Mine had 1.04 from the factory, so I can't compare anything. Has 3x-shift ever been verified for certain? Epson doesn't say anything about it from anything I can find. Just curious.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

hms17B said:


> Mine had 1.04 from the factory, so I can't compare anything. Has 3x-shift ever been verified for certain? Epson doesn't say anything about it from anything I can find. Just curious.


I demoed the og x men on my sheild via Disney + and it looked really good and I watched Hans Zimmer live from Prague on Blu ray and I thought it looked sharper but it's been a couple of weeks since I watched last and then I put on Ford vs Ferrari on 4k and it looks phenomenal. I had my projector for 17mths and just did the update today

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

WynsWrld98 said:


> I keep reading comments it is less sharp than JVCs yet is sharper than the 5050 which serms odd.


"SHARPNESS" is one of those words that can mean quite a lot of different things to a lot of different people!

Native 4K vs 2x / 3x / 4x pixel shift isn't particularly sharpness. It is resolution and you find that the limiting factor is actually the human eyeball when it comes to resolving that detail. 
There's a factor in screen size and how close you are to the image. Bigger the screen the more you'll notice, closer you are, the more you'll notice. Beyond that you'll have a better image when you get up and get close to the screen when getting popcorn. 
Personally i'll take Epson's route here of decent contrast and an exceptional price over the relatively small bump Native would give in image quality on my 120" screen at 12'

Then you have how accurate the panel image is aligned. NOTHING will beat a single chip DLP here as there is no alignment. My TW9400 is pretty good, I can improve things a little with alignment, but like the 3x shift on 24p more. The better aligned an image is the sharper things appear.

There's also factors in the optics and focus. The better the optics, the sharper etc

And then we have digital sharpness filters, though they can also introduce artefacts. I actually find the better the disc, the more sharpness enhancement you can use. Ironic really!


----------



## Alaric

hms17B said:


> I find that without any iris, the really dark scenes are just too light. There are enough dark scenes in what I watch, that I'm compelled to use the iris. I suspected that Dynamic might apply more iris closure, but the rest of its settings are just too far off for it to be enjoyable. I never tried to adjust it better. The question is, can Dynamic be adjusted well? I had the same thing on my old Sanyo, where its Dynamic had the best black level, but it was impossible to adjust it to satisfaction on anything else in Dynamic - no amount of range on certain parameters could ever make it look right. So I gave up on Dynamic there.


I've got a calibrated Dynamic setting for HDR which i tend to use with a Vertex for Dolby Vision. There is a trade off with colour accuracy (particularly vs Digital cinema with the filter), but it has plenty of pop and range. I find it works well with modern action stuff. Ideal for popcorn fare.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Yes, 104. And AFAIK, it only updates to HDMI 1. HDMI 2 will remain at 103 after the update completes.


So does 1.03 or 1.04 supposedly do the 3x shift? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> So does 1.03 or 1.04 supposedly do the 3x shift?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sorry, I really don't know. OTOH, I think I might have posted my subjective impressions quite some time ago after the upgrade. If I can find the post I'll post back. Perhaps someone with more objective data can chime in.


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## biglen

fredworld said:


> Sorry, I really don't know. OTOH, I think I might have posted my subjective impressions quite some time ago after the upgrade. If I can find the post I'll post back. Perhaps someone with more objective data can chime in.


I’m on 1.04, tried both HDMI inputs, and never saw the 3x shift. I honestly think it’s a placebo effect. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> I’m on 1.04, tried both HDMI inputs, and never saw the 3x shift. I honestly think it’s a placebo effect.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Perhaps it is.
Anyway, I found my comments on 1.04. I stated that since the upgrade "I've not had the dreaded on-screen 'no signal' message when changing source inputs, consequently, switching inputs on my prepro has gotten faster by a few seconds with 1.04." 
That comment remains accurate for me.
In retrospect this seems consistent with Epson's description to me that FW 1.04 "Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it."

Epson made no mention of a pixel shift modification.


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## Werewolf79

I prefer HDR these days to SDR and always use HDR on the Panasonic.

I ran into a problem tonight, was watching Black Widow on Disney Plus and just at the explosion on the car the projector switched off, arghh, well I tried unplugging it, I tried looking at the lamp, I also looked at the air filter, it all seemed fine to me, I also emailed Epson customer support, at the same time I bought a bulb and new air filter.

The blue light flashing is normal when you switch it on but the projectors fans turned on full and the projector lens shield closed, nothing fired up and the lamp orange light came on each time.

The lamp only has around 1260 hours on it and it’s almost a year and four months old this projector, so much for the lamp getting anywhere near it’s quoted running time, assuming it’s a lamp issue of course, I mainly ran in Eco for normal blu ray and streaming and medium for HDR films and tv, also high lamp occasionally for 3D but that was not often, mostly eco and medium.

Does anyone have any tips on this, what I should check on the bulb or casing, I mean I have heard of the ballast having to strike to turn the bulb on, where do I find that on the bulb ?

It’s frustrating when you don’t get anywhere near the quoted lamp life and yet it’s just past the warranty for it too, I think.


----------



## fredworld

Werewolf79 said:


> I prefer HDR these days to SDR and always use HDR on the Panasonic.
> 
> I ran into a problem tonight, was watching Black Widow on Disney Plus and just at the explosion on the car the projector switched off, arghh, well I tried unplugging it, I tried looking at the lamp, I also looked at the air filter, it all seemed fine to me, I also emailed Epson customer support, at the same time I bought a bulb and new air filter.
> 
> The blue light flashing is normal when you switch it on but the projectors fans turned on full and the projector lens shield closed, nothing fired up and the lamp orange light came on each time.
> 
> The lamp only has around 1260 hours on it and it’s almost a year and four months old this projector, so much for the lamp getting anywhere near it’s quoted running time, assuming it’s a lamp issue of course, I mainly ran in Eco for normal blu ray and streaming and medium for HDR films and tv, also high lamp occasionally for 3D but that was not often, mostly eco and medium.
> 
> Does anyone have any tips on this, what I should check on the bulb or casing, I mean I have heard of the ballast having to strike to turn the bulb on, where do I find that on the bulb ?
> 
> It’s frustrating when you don’t get anywhere near the quoted lamp life and yet it’s just past the warranty for it too, I think.


Seems like you're still under warranty. I'd be on the phone with Epson about it as soon as you get email confirmation of your support request. Otherwise, DON'T MESS WITH ANYTHING FURTHER.


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## hms17B

Brandon Kozuszek said:


> I demoed the og x men on my sheild via Disney + and it looked really good and I watched Hans Zimmer live from Prague on Blu ray and I thought it looked sharper but it's been a couple of weeks since I watched last and then I put on Ford vs Ferrari on 4k and it looks phenomenal. I had my projector for 17mths and just did the update today
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Yes, it does look quite sharp. I've looked at several disc titles where I have both UHD and HD of the same, and on the really good ones, there is a lot more detail in the UHD than the HD. Quite noticeable at my normal viewing distance.


----------



## hms17B

Alaric said:


> "SHARPNESS" is one of those words that can mean quite a lot of different things to a lot of different people!
> 
> Native 4K vs 2x / 3x / 4x pixel shift isn't particularly sharpness. It is resolution and you find that the limiting factor is actually the human eyeball when it comes to resolving that detail.
> There's a factor in screen size and how close you are to the image. Bigger the screen the more you'll notice, closer you are, the more you'll notice. Beyond that you'll have a better image when you get up and get close to the screen when getting popcorn.
> Personally i'll take Epson's route here of decent contrast and an exceptional price over the relatively small bump Native would give in image quality on my 120" screen at 12'
> 
> Then you have how accurate the panel image is aligned. NOTHING will beat a single chip DLP here as there is no alignment. My TW9400 is pretty good, I can improve things a little with alignment, but like the 3x shift on 24p more. The better aligned an image is the sharper things appear.
> 
> There's also factors in the optics and focus. The better the optics, the sharper etc
> 
> And then we have digital sharpness filters, though they can also introduce artefacts. I actually find the better the disc, the more sharpness enhancement you can use. Ironic really!


Agreed on the panel alignment. I could do most of my alignment as whole panel but did do a bit of intersection to get it all there. The big problem I have with misaligned panels is the fringing I see when they're misaligned. It's like chromatic aberration or even a one-color rainbow effect. Quite distracting, to me at least.


----------



## hms17B

Alaric said:


> I've got a calibrated Dynamic setting for HDR which i tend to use with a Vertex for Dolby Vision. There is a trade off with colour accuracy (particularly vs Digital cinema with the filter), but it has plenty of pop and range. I find it works well with modern action stuff. Ideal for popcorn fare.


So you can't get Dynamic quite right then? I might try it to see if I can get anything pleasing. I suspect, though, that there are some settings for it that we simply can't get at and so some things that can never be quite fixed. With my old Sanyo there were characteristics to the Dynamic image that were unnatural that no amount of fiddling could ever overcome. Wouldn't be surprised if similar holds for this Epson to some degree.


----------



## hms17B

biglen said:


> I’m on 1.04, tried both HDMI inputs, and never saw the 3x shift. I honestly think it’s a placebo effect.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If it were real, one would think that Epson would advertise it. Certainly mention it in their product literature. At any rate, it does look good, and I haven't been disappointed.


----------



## Alaric

biglen said:


> So does 1.03 or 1.04 supposedly do the 3x shift?


Both. It came in on 1.03, but is there on the 1.04 firmware upgrade.

You need to turn off panel alignment and it is only for a 24p image - Projector info is worth checking here as it shows what the PJ is actually seeing!

It's not a night and day thing, but does give a better image


----------



## biglen

Alaric said:


> Both. It came in on 1.03, but is there on the 1.04 firmware upgrade.
> 
> You need to turn off panel alignment and it is only for a 24p image - Projector info is worth checking here as it shows what the PJ is actually seeing!
> 
> It's not a night and day thing, but does give a better image


Yup, tried all that. Zero difference on my 5050. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

hms17B said:


> So you can't get Dynamic quite right then? I might try it to see if I can get anything pleasing. I suspect, though, that there are some settings for it that we simply can't get at and so some things that can never be quite fixed. With my old Sanyo there were characteristics to the Dynamic image that were unnatural that no amount of fiddling could ever overcome. Wouldn't be surprised if similar holds for this Epson to some degree.


I can get Dynamic to give a very good image. Without the filter from Digital Cinema, you loose some colour accuracy. You gain far more lumens, a more aggressive Iris that appears to go darker improving contrast and black floor.

The Epson is all about choice and what you are willing to sacrifice.

I've got a 3rd party filter, which i'm still testing, which should help and being glass shouldn't be so much of a hit.


----------



## DJ KOLA

Alaric said:


> I can get Dynamic to give a very good image. Without the filter from Digital Cinema, you loose some colour accuracy. You gain far more lumens, a more aggressive Iris that appears to go darker improving contrast and black floor.
> 
> The Epson is all about choice and what you are willing to sacrifice.
> 
> I've got a 3rd party filter, which i'm still testing, which should help and being glass shouldn't be so much of a hit.


I was using Dynamic for a while, however, with auto iris on it took some time for the picture to come back on from a black scene. Do you experience the same thing? It’s like auto iris is having difficulty catching up.

I moved to Natural to still get the pop without the issue.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> I can get Dynamic to give a very good image. Without the filter from Digital Cinema, you loose some colour accuracy. You gain far more lumens, a more aggressive Iris that appears to go darker improving contrast and black floor.
> 
> The Epson is all about choice and what you are willing to sacrifice.
> 
> I've got a 3rd party filter, which i'm still testing, which should help and being glass shouldn't be so much of a hit.


Did you actually measure Dynamic or are your settings just based on preference? Nothing wrong with preference, of course.

When I actually tried to calibrate Dynamic I had to bring blue and green down so far that my peak white ended up being just a few nits higher than Natural. I made it just through a 2-pt calibration on the gain values and realized this was pointless and I should just use Natural if I actually wanted accuracy. Maybe there's a case for letting the imbalance go unchecked at the top end and to calibrate to something closer to 7500k but I didn't give that a go.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> Did you actually measure Dynamic or are your settings just based on preference? Nothing wrong with preference, of course.
> 
> When I actually tried to calibrate Dynamic I had to bring blue and green down so far that my peak white ended up being just a few nits higher than Natural. I made it just through a 2-pt calibration on the gain values and realized this was pointless and I should just use Natural if I actually wanted accuracy. Maybe there's a case for letting the imbalance go unchecked at the top end and to calibrate to something closer to 7500k but I didn't give that a go.











The Dreaming Cinema


I thought i'd finally start to document some of what I've done in home cinema as it's a bit of a crazy install, with lots of, mainly second hand, esoteric kit and done on a reasonable budget and with some odd constraints. It is however quite a show and very impressive! Kit Front Speakers - 2 x




sites.google.com





The settings are there, the values are pretty extreme for sure with the RGBCMY and the top end of the greyscale - I do broad strokes with the cuts/offset (2pt) rather than max them out. 
Not sure i measured lumen output specifically after the calibration and maybe Natural could give higher light output, but i was trying to use Dynamic to see what it was like in terms of the Iris and i was also trying to maximise contrast and black level, so tended towards cuts at the low end over gains.
looking at the notes i wrote, it does have a cool colour temp, so may be on the higher side there!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> The Dreaming Cinema
> 
> 
> I thought i'd finally start to document some of what I've done in home cinema as it's a bit of a crazy install, with lots of, mainly second hand, esoteric kit and done on a reasonable budget and with some odd constraints. It is however quite a show and very impressive! Kit Front Speakers - 2 x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sites.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The settings are there, the values are pretty extreme for sure with the RGBCMY and the top end of the greyscale - I do broad strokes with the cuts/offset (2pt) rather than max them out.
> Not sure i measured lumen output specifically after the calibration and maybe Natural could give higher light output, but i was trying to use Dynamic to see what it was like in terms of the Iris and i was also trying to maximise contrast and black level, so tended towards cuts at the low end over gains.
> looking at the notes i wrote, it does have a cool colour temp, so may be on the higher side there!


For Greyscale 8 you have massive drops. That's going to reduce peak white quite a bit. What did you use to measure everything? If using HCFR I'd be curious what sort of contrast you were getting with it. Ah, I see Calman mentioned. Still, I wonder what sort of nits you were reading and what contrast was measured at vs your HDR bright calibration.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> The Dreaming Cinema
> 
> 
> I thought i'd finally start to document some of what I've done in home cinema as it's a bit of a crazy install, with lots of, mainly second hand, esoteric kit and done on a reasonable budget and with some odd constraints. It is however quite a show and very impressive! Kit Front Speakers - 2 x
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sites.google.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The settings are there, the values are pretty extreme for sure with the RGBCMY and the top end of the greyscale - I do broad strokes with the cuts/offset (2pt) rather than max them out.
> Not sure i measured lumen output specifically after the calibration and maybe Natural could give higher light output, but i was trying to use Dynamic to see what it was like in terms of the Iris and i was also trying to maximise contrast and black level, so tended towards cuts at the low end over gains.
> looking at the notes i wrote, it does have a cool colour temp, so may be on the higher side there!


Your custom Gamma is interesting and goes in the opposite direction my custom gamma goes for a 1000 nit HDR curve.

Mine is much more like this image I found on the web but the far right tone is maxed out









I'm switching over to a X790/RS540 but maybe before I get rid of this 5050 I'll capture some of my settings for HDR and others can try them. I'm using Natural at mid lamp since I don't like the black floor being elevated so much. I get about 80-85 nits in this setup. It makes it so I have to clip highlights a bit more but low-end scenes pack punch and have good depth. Maybe the settings could help/inspire others. Of course I'll put the giant caveat that all projector setups are different and settings of one projector may look like dog doo doo on another.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> For Greyscale 8 you have massive drops. That's going to reduce peak white quite a bit. What did you use to measure everything? If using HCFR I'd be curious what sort of contrast you were getting with it. Ah, I see Calman mentioned. Still, I wonder what sort of nits you were reading and what contrast was measured at vs your HDR bright calibration.


It's HCFR with a pgen/vertex (for HDR) - I've a Spectracal S6 colorimeter which is cross matched to i1 pro spectrophotometer. Gets the best of accuracy and fast low level light measurements.
Without the Iris enabled i seem to recall it being in the 4-6,000 range off the screen - The issue with contrast measurements is you're trying to measure the lack of something and the slightest variation in the numbers makes a huge difference and you get fluctuations.- It probably tells you more about my room than the projector 
Enabling the Iris and the black field error, basically lower than the meter can register.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> It's HCFR with a pgen/vertex (for HDR) - I've a Spectracal S6 colorimeter which is cross matched to i1 pro spectrophotometer. Gets the best of accuracy and fast low level light measurements.
> Without the Iris enabled i seem to recall it being in the 4-6,000 range off the screen - The issue with contrast measurements is you're trying to measure the lack of something and the slightest variation in the numbers makes a huge difference and you get fluctuations.- It probably tells you more about my room than the projector
> Enabling the Iris and the black field error, basically lower than the meter can register.


For on/off measurements and the C6 you should be decently accurate. The room doesn't matter for FOFO. 

I believe I was right around 5000:1 for my HDR cal and 5800:1 for my SDR calibration. So our numbers align. WIth that being said, I'm wondering where the advantage of using Dynamic comes in. If it isn't much brighter and it doesn't produce higher contrast once calibrated then....why use it? Ya, know? If you left the top end alone (Greyscale 7/8) then I could see it pushing higher contrast brightness and for some that would be worth it for the punch. I believe the 5050 can measure up over 7000:1.

I also used HCFR and pgen/Vertex 2.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> Your custom Gamma is interesting and goes in the opposite direction my custom gamma goes for a 1000 nit HDR curve.


I'll admit to swiping the Gamma Curve from here








Epson TW9400 / TW8400 / UB5050 / UB6050 Tips and Tricks


I have owned the TW9400 / UB6050 for the last two years after owning about 10 JVCs. I got fed up with JVC’s quality control and awful support in Australia. Interestingly, support was great ba…




simplehomecinema.com





It's one of the areas i'm less sure about with calibration and whenever i've looked at Calibrating Gamma on the Epson i've struggled to get reasonable numbers from it.
The review and chat here also mentions the gamma settings don't work as expected








Epson EH-TW9400 Projector Review & Comments


The Epson EH-TW9400 is the latest flagship lamp-based home cinema LCD projector from the company, and it promises 4K HDR support and a host of useful features. Is this another Best Buy? Read the review. Write your own review for Epson EH-TW9400




www.avforums.com







> I'm switching over to a X790/RS540 but maybe before I get rid of this 5050 I'll capture some of my settings for HDR and others can try them. I'm using Natural at mid lamp since I don't like the black floor being elevated so much. I get about 80-85 nits in this setup. It makes it so I have to clip highlights a bit more but low-end scenes pack punch and have good depth. Maybe the settings could help/inspire others. Of course I'll put the giant caveat that all projector setups are different and settings of one projector may look like dog doo doo on another.


I'm never totally comfortable with transposing settings between machines, they may be better than inbuilt ones, they may be worse - However it is always interesting to see someone elses take on calibration, take only a few minutes to trial and may do something different which you can then build off, which is how my HDR Dynamic settings came into being.....I like many instantly dismissed Dynamic as an overblown sales demo mode, but it has some features (like the iris and lumens to play with) which are interesting.

X7900 over here. A good choice. I was looking at getting a second hand one a couple of times when i found the TW94000 being released. I've often wondered about that choice. Better contrast and black levels for certain!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> I'll admit to swiping the Gamma Curve from here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson TW9400 / TW8400 / UB5050 / UB6050 Tips and Tricks
> 
> 
> I have owned the TW9400 / UB6050 for the last two years after owning about 10 JVCs. I got fed up with JVC’s quality control and awful support in Australia. Interestingly, support was great ba…
> 
> 
> 
> 
> simplehomecinema.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's one of the areas i'm less sure about with calibration and whenever i've looked at Calibrating Gamma on the Epson i've struggled to get reasonable numbers from it.
> The review and chat here also mentions the gamma settings don't work as expected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson EH-TW9400 Projector Review & Comments
> 
> 
> The Epson EH-TW9400 is the latest flagship lamp-based home cinema LCD projector from the company, and it promises 4K HDR support and a host of useful features. Is this another Best Buy? Read the review. Write your own review for Epson EH-TW9400
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avforums.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm never totally comfortable with transposing settings between machines, they may be better than inbuilt ones, they may be worse - However it is always interesting to see someone elses take on calibration, take only a few minutes to trial and may do something different which you can then build off, which is how my HDR Dynamic settings came into being.....I like many instantly dismissed Dynamic as an overblown sales demo mode, but it has some features (like the iris and lumens to play with) which are interesting.
> 
> X7900 over here. A good choice. I was looking at getting a second hand one a couple of times when i found the TW94000 being released. I've often wondered about that choice. Better contrast and black levels for certain!


I just skimmed it a bit and saw the reviewer was only hitting 2.0 with a -2 gamma? Or something like that?

I actually had this issue when I first got my current 5050. I calibrated it at clost to 100 hours and -2 registered at around 2.2. I had to do a custom gamma to hit 2.4. Well, after 100 hours I thought my picture looked like butt. I took a look and my gamma had risen to like 2.6! -2 gamma now registers a bit over 2.3. I still used a custom gamma to tailer it but it was quite a bit different than my first calibration. I attributed it to bulb aging but never expected it to be that much. 

I agree about transposing settings. When I did my HDR calibration I looked around at what others had done to get an idea of the different ways to go about it. HDR is way more art than science with projectors. I think my approach to gamma calibration for HDR could be of help...or not! That's why I think I will share it just for another data point that others could find useful. After I did my current HDR cal I found it to be a huge improvement in PQ. There's no way simple tweaking or even the LLDV hack could touch the improvement I saw with the cal.


----------



## hms17B

Alaric said:


> I can get Dynamic to give a very good image. Without the filter from Digital Cinema, you loose some colour accuracy. You gain far more lumens, a more aggressive Iris that appears to go darker improving contrast and black floor.
> 
> The Epson is all about choice and what you are willing to sacrifice.
> 
> I've got a 3rd party filter, which i'm still testing, which should help and being glass shouldn't be so much of a hit.


That's good to hear. I'll take a look at Dynamic. I don't think I really need more light, but more from the iris is tempting.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> For on/off measurements and the C6 you should be decently accurate. The room doesn't matter for FOFO.


I guess full on perhaps not, any light bounce back would help! However full off you need absolute pitch black, even having my laptop pointed away from the screen i have to close down etc!



> I believe I was right around 5000:1 for my HDR cal and 5800:1 for my SDR calibration. So our numbers align. WIth that being said, I'm wondering where the advantage of using Dynamic comes in. If it isn't much brighter and it doesn't produce higher contrast once calibrated then....why use it? Ya, know? If you left the top end alone (Greyscale 7/8) then I could see it pushing higher contrast brightness and for some that would be worth it for the punch. I believe the 5050 can measure up over 7000:1.


Pulling up the old Dynamic HDR run, it has the Greyscale at DE 0.94 max 1.6, Colour matcher at an average 3.11 with max 6.35 and 110.242 nits on full white!
Colour temp tracking pretty flat at just under 6450 with a slight dip to 6300 at 25%

It's hard to be certain what state i left that run though


----------



## DigitalAV

Alaric said:


> I can get Dynamic to give a very good image. Without the filter from Digital Cinema, you loose some colour accuracy. You gain far more lumens, a more aggressive Iris that appears to go darker improving contrast and black floor.
> 
> The Epson is all about choice and what you are willing to sacrifice.
> 
> I've got a 3rd party filter, which i'm still testing, which should help and being glass shouldn't be so much of a hit.


3rd party filter to get full DCI/P3? Color me intrigued! Tell us how you like it! Might be good on the LS12000?


----------



## Alaric

DigitalAV said:


> 3rd party filter to get full DCI/P3? Color me intrigued! Tell us how you like it! Might be good on the LS12000?


Must admit I've Wondered _IF_ the lens on the LS12000 is the same physical size and if such a mod would work - I'm personally not that interested in the LS12000 because of the lack of 3D, though this doesn't bother a lot of people, i've quite a large collection of 3D films built up over owning the TW9400!

This has details and links - It was originally from cinehome in Germany, but it was an exclusive with their projectors as a package and i'd already got the TW9400 by the time i found out. I was discussing things on AVF and Ricky from Kalibrate mentioned he had a few and to drop him a PM if I wanted one, so i did.
Wasn't cheap, but not silly either. It's a large piece of pinky-purple optical glass in a nice machined metal ring, held in by a big circlip. It push fits snuggly over the whole lens ensemble.

I'm still calibrating settings for use with it as ideally i want it permanently installed, but that means working around SDR, though there's plenty of light to work with. I keep getting distracted watching things and tweaking the Vertex for LLDV along with adding more velvet in the cinema and also lots of personal stuff. Initial testing certainly looked good though. A lot less light loss compared with the inbuilt Epson DCI P3 one (though i've not actually measured to compare)


----------



## DigitalAV

Alaric said:


> Must admit I've Wondered _IF_ the lens on the LS12000 is the same physical size and if such a mod would work - I'm personally not that interested in the LS12000 because of the lack of 3D, though this doesn't bother a lot of people, i've quite a large collection of 3D films built up over owning the TW9400!
> 
> This has details and links - It was originally from cinehome in Germany, but it was an exclusive with their projectors as a package and i'd already got the TW9400 by the time i found out. I was discussing things on AVF and Ricky from Kalibrate mentioned he had a few and to drop him a PM if I wanted one, so i did.
> Wasn't cheap, but not silly either. It's a large piece of pinky-purple optical glass in a nice machined metal ring, held in by a big circlip. It push fits snuggly over the whole lens ensemble.
> 
> I'm still calibrating settings for use with it as ideally i want it permanently installed, but that means working around SDR, though there's plenty of light to work with. I keep getting distracted watching things and tweaking the Vertex for LLDV along with adding more velvet in the cinema and also lots of personal stuff. Initial testing certainly looked good though. A lot less light loss compared with the inbuilt Epson DCI P3 one (though i've not actually measured to compare)


Interesting, thank you for the info! Do you know if this would work in conjunction with an anamorphic lens?


----------



## Alaric

DigitalAV said:


> Interesting, thank you for the info! Do you know if this would work in conjunction with an anamorphic lens?


I don't have one, but i'm guessing it will depend on how the Anamorphic lens is used/attached and as such may well depend on the type used!


----------



## Maineiac12

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'm switching over to a X790/RS540


Why the change? I don’t know much about the JVC projectors other than they are more expensive and “better” than the Epsons.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Maineiac12 said:


> Why the change? I don’t know much about the JVC projectors other than they are more expensive and “better” than the Epsons.


Black levels.


----------



## rwalktheplank

something useful i discovered... i use the hdfury arcana dolby vision hack, and up until now i had really long 5-10 second "handshake" times when starting a program/movie on a streaming service. i found a setting on my denon 3600 receiver "4k signal format" (4K Signal Format AVR-X3600H). if you have high speed cables ( i think > 18gbps/sec) and an avr with this feature, you might be able to change this setting from standard to enhanced and remove that issue like i did.


----------



## DJ KOLA

rwalktheplank said:


> something useful i discovered... i use the hdfury arcana dolby vision hack, and up until now i had really long 5-10 second "handshake" times when starting a program/movie on a streaming service. i found a setting on my denon 3600 receiver "4k signal format" (4K Signal Format AVR-X3600H). if you have high speed cables ( i think > 18gbps/sec) and an avr with this feature, you might be able to change this setting from standard to enhanced and remove that issue like i did.


I have a Denon 2600 and made the switch but still get the 10 secs handshake issue. I’m also using the Arcana with the ATV4k set to match frame and range. If I take off match frame than I get very little handshake, however, I would have to watch content at 60hz with 3:2 pull down. I would rather deal with the handshake length than deal with judder.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Black levels.


Guess it'll be good bye then? I've really appreciated your 5050 posts here.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> Guess it'll be good bye then? I've really appreciated your 5050 posts here.


I won't be like leaving the forum. I'll be around and have had experience with the 5050 so I'll still probably chime in.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> I won't be like leaving the forum. I'll be around and have had experience with the 5050 so I'll still probably chime in.


And tell us how much better the black levels are


----------



## ricwhite

I watched the James Bond No Time to Die 4k movie on my new 5050 the other day and was distracted a little by the jittery image when the camera pans. Scenes that are more static are stunning, but some scenes that pan jitter a lot. I didn't notice that with my previous Epson 6010 projector. I have also noticed the "un-smooth" panning in other movies as well. To clarify, this seems different than just the normal 24 fps jitter of movies. This seems more pronounced. Is that an issue with the 5050?


----------



## hms17B

Alaric said:


> And tell us how much better the black levels are


NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!


----------



## rekbones

ricwhite said:


> I watched the James Bond No Time to Die 4k movie on my new 5050 the other day and was distracted a little by the jittery image when the camera pans. Scenes that are more static are stunning, but some scenes that pan jitter a lot. I didn't notice that with my previous Epson 6010 projector. I have also noticed the "un-smooth" panning in other movies as well. To clarify, this seems different than just the normal 24 fps jitter of movies. This seems more pronounced. Is that an issue with the 5050?


What's your source? Are you sure your sending 24hz? The 6010 on any content can have FI enabled where the 5050 in 4K has no FI as it is only available with a 1080p source.


----------



## ricwhite

rekbones said:


> What's your source? Are you sure your sending 24hz? The 6010 on any content can have FI enabled where the 5050 in 4K has no FI as it is only available with a 1080p source.


I'm using a Panasonic 820 player / Auto 4k / 4k60p off / 24p auto / 25p/50p off. The Epson is showing a 24p signal when I'm playing the movie.


----------



## rekbones

ricwhite said:


> I'm using a Panasonic 820 player / Auto 4k / 4k60p off / 24p auto / 25p/50p off. The Epson is showing a 24p signal when I'm playing the movie.


Ok now for the second question where you using any level of FI in the 6010?


----------



## hms17B

On the matter of black level. I tried my 5050 projecting a black pattern from the Spears and Munsil disc at varying distances and zooms. In my permanent room I can't get larger than 100", but can in other part of the house. Whatever size image I get, it's always noticeable that black is not really really deep. Even on an over 200" image black is still not black. It's somewhat darker than on 100", but not that great once my eyes adjust. As long as projected black is lighter than the room, it becomes noticeable to me once my eyes adjust and my own irises open up. That said, I can get an acceptable level of black by using the projector's iris. I've tried it without and it's always too light for me. I also set the manual iris down. I'm still playing with that, but find I need some to be satisfied with the really dark scenes.

On fades to black or really dark scenes, they look true black to my eyes in the first moments of viewing. But then my eyes adjust and I can see that it doesn't appear as black anymore. My eyes are pretty sensitive in the dark so maybe that's a hindrance here. There's a level of dark that to me is a threshold. Above it I can't be convinced that it's supposed to be black. Below, and I perceive it as black enough to be satisfying. My old Sanyo could never convince. The 5050 using the iris can. I still know it's not truly black, but it seems dark enough, at least enough that it doesn't distract me anymore. Considering that the 5050 can just barely cross that threshold, I believe that it was a good choice for me even tho I can't fully utilize all that it can offer - not yet at least. All reviews and posts I've read say that the 5050 is significantly better at black than anything anywhere near its price. Therefore I don't see how I could have ever been pleased with anything else under my circumstances. Unless I went up to the next stratum of pricing, which doesn't fit my circumstances.

I also was looking at those graphs of contrast falling off at higher brightness in the image. My perception doesn't really match the measurements, though. From the measurements one might think that black ought to look best when the image has the least amount of bright in it. But I perceive the opposite. Black looks the worst in the darkest images and actually looks better in brighter images. In the darkest images, black can only be compared by the brain to the room, which is even darker. So by comparison projected black looks lighter. When there's bright in the image, black can be compared to things lighter than it and so can look darker. Even when there's light reflected off the room, projected black is still darker than the bright parts of the image. There's a lot of relative quality here. It's like taking a medium gray and putting it in a checkerboard pattern. When the gray alternates with white, it looks black, When it alternates with black, it looks white.

It would be nice to have a no-compromise setup, both space and equipment. But that being out of the question, I'm very pleased with the 5050 and do not regret it at all. I could have gone to another brand at the same cost, or gone cheaper, but I don't believe I would have been as satisfied. I'm still considering some improvements for the room and screen, however.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> On the matter of black level. I tried my 5050 projecting a black pattern from the Spears and Munsil disc at varying distances and zooms. In my permanent room I can't get larger than 100", but can in other part of the house. Whatever size image I get, it's always noticeable that black is not really really deep. Even on an over 200" image black is still not black. It's somewhat darker than on 100", but not that great once my eyes adjust. As long as projected black is lighter than the room, it becomes noticeable to me once my eyes adjust and my own irises open up. That said, I can get an acceptable level of black by using the projector's iris. I've tried it without and it's always too light for me. I also set the manual iris down. I'm still playing with that, but find I need some to be satisfied with the really dark scenes.
> 
> On fades to black or really dark scenes, they look true black to my eyes in the first moments of viewing. But then my eyes adjust and I can see that it doesn't appear as black anymore. My eyes are pretty sensitive in the dark so maybe that's a hindrance here. There's a level of dark that to me is a threshold. Above it I can't be convinced that it's supposed to be black. Below, and I perceive it as black enough to be satisfying. My old Sanyo could never convince. The 5050 using the iris can. I still know it's not truly black, but it seems dark enough, at least enough that it doesn't distract me anymore. Considering that the 5050 can just barely cross that threshold, I believe that it was a good choice for me even tho I can't fully utilize all that it can offer - not yet at least. All reviews and posts I've read say that the 5050 is significantly better at black than anything anywhere near its price. Therefore I don't see how I could have ever been pleased with anything else under my circumstances. Unless I went up to the next stratum of pricing, which doesn't fit my circumstances.
> 
> I also was looking at those graphs of contrast falling off at higher brightness in the image. My perception doesn't really match the measurements, though. From the measurements one might think that black ought to look best when the image has the least amount of bright in it. But I perceive the opposite. Black looks the worst in the darkest images and actually looks better in brighter images. In the darkest images, black can only be compared by the brain to the room, which is even darker. So by comparison projected black looks lighter. When there's bright in the image, black can be compared to things lighter than it and so can look darker. Even when there's light reflected off the room, projected black is still darker than the bright parts of the image. There's a lot of relative quality here. It's like taking a medium gray and putting it in a checkerboard pattern. When the gray alternates with white, it looks black, When it alternates with black, it looks white.
> 
> It would be nice to have a no-compromise setup, both space and equipment. But that being out of the question, I'm very pleased with the 5050 and do not regret it at all. I could have gone to another brand at the same cost, or gone cheaper, but I don't believe I would have been as satisfied. I'm still considering some improvements for the room and screen, however.


I found that I was never able to be fully happy with the 5050's black level. No matter what I did, when things got really dark I just couldn't shake the haziness I saw. I tried a few different calibrations and even got some of the best tone mapping available in madVR. While each improved my setup, I still wasn't fully pleased. Unfortunately, I'm not sure this x790 will fully please me either. It isn't as sharp as the 5050 and I'm still not fully there on blacks...yes, you read that right. Here's the issue and part of it could be fixed. For one, the bulb in this unit is terribly dim. I'm getting the same output with it in full open, high lamp as I did with the 5050 in Eco and the iris at -10! Still though, contrast is at 6x the level of the 5050. But, the dynamic iris on this x790 comes with issues. For one, it pumps a lot more than the 5050. Two, and worst of all, it crushes detail in bright areas when it closes down. Now I may be able to eek out even more contrast and get into an 8x multiple of the 5050 with a new bulb and closing down the iris. So I may get to the black level I want without using the iris. Without the dynamic iris, it is still mightily impressive, but if I can look past the artifacts of the DI, the black levels are at a holy **** level.

I may be able to improve sharpness with further working on convergence and eventually a thorough cleaning of the lightpath. Contrast also might get improved to another level too.

I go into this much detail because the x790/RS540s are often talked about as still being great values on the used market. I agree. But, the 5050 is still a heckuva value at $3k. For black level snobs, the x790 is pretty close to as good as it gets but it still doesn't get to pure-black-never-a-sight-of-haziness-level. I'm sure I'll be happy with the projector with a new bulb and better convergence, but I think you really have to want deep blacks to give up the 5050. Other than black levels, the 5050 is arguably the better projector.

Your comments about blacks looking more black as the image is brighter are accurate. That's how our vision works. The brighter the image the more our own irises close down and the "blacks" appear more black even though they are actually raising in luminance. My frustration is that in my velvet pit I can still tell that blacks aren't black at higher ADL levels. The deep black of my velvet tells me what's black. So these space scenes, like in Gravity, where you have a bright white spaceship and deep black space (like below) I can 100% tell the blacks aren't black because they don't match my velvet. But, if I didn't have the velvet then they'd be even lighter and more obvious, although maybe not since the paint color around the screen may appear lighter than the screen and thus the blacks could look black. Lol. It's a circular process that nobody should worry about as much as I do. I've often wondered if a grey screen, or even a mild ALR screen and a painted black room is actually the best for getting blacks to look black. Anyway...








BTW, this shot is around 11% ADL and the Epson would have the slight edge in contrast . Below about 7% this JVC takes over. But in the NX series, it isn't until 2.5% that the JVC takes over. And those NX projectors also have dynamic irises that crush highlights. The 5050, really is a good, well-designed projector.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> I found that I was never able to be fully happy with the 5050's black level. No matter what I did, when things got really dark I just couldn't shake the haziness I saw. I tried a few different calibrations and even got some of the best tone mapping available in madVR. While each improved my setup, I still wasn't fully pleased. Unfortunately, I'm not sure this x790 will fully please me either. It isn't as sharp as the 5050 and I'm still not fully there on blacks...yes, you read that right. Here's the issue and part of it could be fixed. For one, the bulb in this unit is terribly dim. I'm getting the same output with it in full open, high lamp as I did with the 5050 in Eco and the iris at -10! Still though, contrast is at 6x the level of the 5050. But, the dynamic iris on this x790 comes with issues. For one, it pumps a lot more than the 5050. Two, and worst of all, it crushes detail in bright areas when it closes down. Now I may be able to eek out even more contrast and get into an 8x multiple of the 5050 with a new bulb and closing down the iris. So I may get to the black level I want without using the iris. Without the dynamic iris, it is still mightily impressive, but if I can look past the artifacts of the DI, the black levels are at a holy **** level.
> 
> I may be able to improve sharpness with further working on convergence and eventually a thorough cleaning of the lightpath. Contrast also might get improved to another level too.
> 
> I go into this much detail because the x790/RS540s are often talked about as still being great values on the used market. I agree. But, the 5050 is still a heckuva value at $3k. For black level snobs, the x790 is pretty close to as good as it gets but it still doesn't get to pure-black-never-a-sight-of-haziness-level. I'm sure I'll be happy with the projector with a new bulb and better convergence, but I think you really have to want deep blacks to give up the 5050. Other than black levels, the 5050 is arguably the better projector.
> 
> Your comments about blacks looking more black as the image is brighter are accurate. That's how our vision works. The brighter the image the more our own irises close down and the "blacks" appear more black even though they are actually raising in luminance. My frustration is that in my velvet pit I can still tell that blacks aren't black at higher ADL levels. The deep black of my velvet tells me what's black. So these space scenes, like in Gravity, where you have a bright white spaceship and deep black space (like below) I can 100% tell the blacks aren't black because they don't match my velvet. But, if I didn't have the velvet then they'd be even lighter and more obvious, although maybe not since the paint color around the screen may appear lighter than the screen and thus the blacks could look black. Lol. It's a circular process that nobody should worry about as much as I do. I've often wondered if a grey screen, or even a mild ALR screen and a painted black room is actually the best for getting blacks to look black. Anyway...
> View attachment 3245958
> 
> BTW, this shot is around 11% ADL and the Epson would have the slight edge in contrast . Below about 7% this JVC takes over. But in the NX series, it isn't until 2.5% that the JVC takes over. And those NX projectors also have dynamic irises that crush highlights. The 5050, really is a good, well-designed projector.


Wow, what a battle for black level! With my limited setup, I'll never have to go to such lengths. But it is good to hear how others optimize things. Helps me a lot to get mine as good as I can under my circumstances. Wait until we get some sort of perfected OLED (ULED?) in a roll-up panel.


----------



## DavidK442

hms17B said:


> On the matter of black level. I tried my 5050 projecting a black pattern from the Spears and Munsil disc at varying distances and zooms. In my permanent room I can't get larger than 100", but can in other part of the house. Whatever size image I get, it's always noticeable that black is not really really deep. Even on an over 200" image black is still not black. It's somewhat darker than on 100", but not that great once my eyes adjust. As long as projected black is lighter than the room, it becomes noticeable to me once my eyes adjust and my own irises open up. That said, I can get an acceptable level of black by using the projector's iris. I've tried it without and it's always too light for me. I also set the manual iris down. I'm still playing with that, but find I need some to be satisfied with the really dark scenes.
> 
> On fades to black or really dark scenes, they look true black to my eyes in the first moments of viewing. But then my eyes adjust and I can see that it doesn't appear as black anymore. My eyes are pretty sensitive in the dark so maybe that's a hindrance here. There's a level of dark that to me is a threshold. Above it I can't be convinced that it's supposed to be black. Below, and I perceive it as black enough to be satisfying. My old Sanyo could never convince. The 5050 using the iris can. I still know it's not truly black, but it seems dark enough, at least enough that it doesn't distract me anymore. Considering that the 5050 can just barely cross that threshold, I believe that it was a good choice for me even tho I can't fully utilize all that it can offer - not yet at least. All reviews and posts I've read say that the 5050 is significantly better at black than anything anywhere near its price. Therefore I don't see how I could have ever been pleased with anything else under my circumstances. Unless I went up to the next stratum of pricing, which doesn't fit my circumstances.
> 
> I also was looking at those graphs of contrast falling off at higher brightness in the image. My perception doesn't really match the measurements, though. From the measurements one might think that black ought to look best when the image has the least amount of bright in it. But I perceive the opposite. Black looks the worst in the darkest images and actually looks better in brighter images. In the darkest images, black can only be compared by the brain to the room, which is even darker. So by comparison projected black looks lighter. When there's bright in the image, black can be compared to things lighter than it and so can look darker. Even when there's light reflected off the room, projected black is still darker than the bright parts of the image. There's a lot of relative quality here. It's like taking a medium gray and putting it in a checkerboard pattern. When the gray alternates with white, it looks black, When it alternates with black, it looks white.
> 
> It would be nice to have a no-compromise setup, both space and equipment. But that being out of the question, I'm very pleased with the 5050 and do not regret it at all. I could have gone to another brand at the same cost, or gone cheaper, but I don't believe I would have been as satisfied. I'm still considering some improvements for the room and screen, however.





PixelPusher15 said:


> I found that I was never able to be fully happy with the 5050's black level. No matter what I did, when things got really dark I just couldn't shake the haziness I saw. I tried a few different calibrations and even got some of the best tone mapping available in madVR. While each improved my setup, I still wasn't fully pleased. Unfortunately, I'm not sure this x790 will fully please me either. It isn't as sharp as the 5050 and I'm still not fully there on blacks...yes, you read that right. Here's the issue and part of it could be fixed. For one, the bulb in this unit is terribly dim. I'm getting the same output with it in full open, high lamp as I did with the 5050 in Eco and the iris at -10! Still though, contrast is at 6x the level of the 5050. But, the dynamic iris on this x790 comes with issues. For one, it pumps a lot more than the 5050. Two, and worst of all, it crushes detail in bright areas when it closes down. Now I may be able to eek out even more contrast and get into an 8x multiple of the 5050 with a new bulb and closing down the iris. So I may get to the black level I want without using the iris. Without the dynamic iris, it is still mightily impressive, but if I can look past the artifacts of the DI, the black levels are at a holy **** level.
> 
> I may be able to improve sharpness with further working on convergence and eventually a thorough cleaning of the lightpath. Contrast also might get improved to another level too.
> 
> I go into this much detail because the x790/RS540s are often talked about as still being great values on the used market. I agree. But, the 5050 is still a heckuva value at $3k. For black level snobs, the x790 is pretty close to as good as it gets but it still doesn't get to pure-black-never-a-sight-of-haziness-level. I'm sure I'll be happy with the projector with a new bulb and better convergence, but I think you really have to want deep blacks to give up the 5050. Other than black levels, the 5050 is arguably the better projector.
> 
> Your comments about blacks looking more black as the image is brighter are accurate. That's how our vision works. The brighter the image the more our own irises close down and the "blacks" appear more black even though they are actually raising in luminance. My frustration is that in my velvet pit I can still tell that blacks aren't black at higher ADL levels. The deep black of my velvet tells me what's black. So these space scenes, like in Gravity, where you have a bright white spaceship and deep black space (like below) I can 100% tell the blacks aren't black because they don't match my velvet. But, if I didn't have the velvet then they'd be even lighter and more obvious, although maybe not since the paint color around the screen may appear lighter than the screen and thus the blacks could look black. Lol. It's a circular process that nobody should worry about as much as I do. I've often wondered if a grey screen, or even a mild ALR screen and a painted black room is actually the best for getting blacks to look black. Anyway...
> View attachment 3245958
> 
> BTW, this shot is around 11% ADL and the Epson would have the slight edge in contrast . Below about 7% this JVC takes over. But in the NX series, it isn't until 2.5% that the JVC takes over. And those NX projectors also have dynamic irises that crush highlights. The 5050, really is a good, well-designed projector.


I feel like these two posts provide a realistic view of projector compromises and together, make a very compelling argument for jumping ship to a large OLED panel.


----------



## WynsWrld98

DavidK442 said:


> I feel like these two posts provide a realistic view of projector compromises and together, make a very compelling argument for jumping ship to a large OLED panel.


Once I went to a constant image height setup there is no going back. Put a 2.4:1 ratio movie on an OLED and compare its size to my Epson with black velvet masking around the displayed image huge image.


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## applegrcoug

I have a 5040ub with that has a power supply that is going out and the unit is out of warranty. If I need to replace it, what is the word on the 5050ub these days? I sure like the picture of my 5040...does the 505o have all the power supply problems?


----------



## fredworld

applegrcoug said:


> I have a 5040ub with that has a power supply that is going out and the unit is out of warranty. If I need to replace it, what is the word on the 5050ub these days? I sure like the picture of my 5040...does the 505o have all the power supply problems?


I got mine in May 2019. After 2500 hours, no issues except a couple innocuous dust blobs.


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## biglen

DavidK442 said:


> I feel like these two posts provide a realistic view of projector compromises and together, make a very compelling argument for jumping ship to a large OLED panel.


There’s absolutely no comparison between an OLED and a projector. An OLED will never give you the immersion that a 135” projector image gives you. The blacks on my 5050 are amazing in my movie room, that’s treated with black velvet, and black carpet. You couldn’t give me an OLED to replace my 5050. I don’t know if these screenshots do it justice, but they are as black as black ink in person. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ricwhite

biglen said:


> There’s absolutely no comparison between an OLED and a projector. An OLED will never give you the immersion that a 135” projector image gives you. The blacks on my 5050 are amazing in my movie room, that’s treated with black velvet, and black carpet. You couldn’t give me an OLED to replace my 5050. I don’t know if these screenshots do it justice, but they are as black as black ink in person.


I have a 106 inch screen and was considering the TCL 98 inch flat panel. But after thinking it through, the loss of size by about 20% would have ruined the "theater" feel. So, I opted instead to upgrade to a 5050 and I'm glad I did. Maybe someday there will be good flat panels in the 110 inch range that will be reasonably priced and at that time, I might switch to a flat panel.


----------



## DavidK442

biglen said:


> There’s absolutely no comparison between an OLED and a projector. An OLED will never give you the immersion that a 135” projector image gives you. The blacks on my 5050 are amazing in my movie room, that’s treated with black velvet, and black carpet. You couldn’t give me an OLED to replace my 5050. I don’t know if these screenshots do it justice, but they are as black as black ink in person.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The perceived contrast of images like that with bright highlights against a black background makes even my lowly DLP look great.
I have no doubt that your 5050 looks even better.


----------



## DJ KOLA

hms17B said:


> On the matter of black level. I tried my 5050 projecting a black pattern from the Spears and Munsil disc at varying distances and zooms. In my permanent room I can't get larger than 100", but can in other part of the house. Whatever size image I get, it's always noticeable that black is not really really deep. Even on an over 200" image black is still not black. It's somewhat darker than on 100", but not that great once my eyes adjust. As long as projected black is lighter than the room, it becomes noticeable to me once my eyes adjust and my own irises open up. That said, I can get an acceptable level of black by using the projector's iris. I've tried it without and it's always too light for me. I also set the manual iris down. I'm still playing with that, but find I need some to be satisfied with the really dark scenes.
> 
> On fades to black or really dark scenes, they look true black to my eyes in the first moments of viewing. But then my eyes adjust and I can see that it doesn't appear as black anymore. My eyes are pretty sensitive in the dark so maybe that's a hindrance here. There's a level of dark that to me is a threshold. Above it I can't be convinced that it's supposed to be black. Below, and I perceive it as black enough to be satisfying. My old Sanyo could never convince. The 5050 using the iris can. I still know it's not truly black, but it seems dark enough, at least enough that it doesn't distract me anymore. Considering that the 5050 can just barely cross that threshold, I believe that it was a good choice for me even tho I can't fully utilize all that it can offer - not yet at least. All reviews and posts I've read say that the 5050 is significantly better at black than anything anywhere near its price. Therefore I don't see how I could have ever been pleased with anything else under my circumstances. Unless I went up to the next stratum of pricing, which doesn't fit my circumstances.
> 
> I also was looking at those graphs of contrast falling off at higher brightness in the image. My perception doesn't really match the measurements, though. From the measurements one might think that black ought to look best when the image has the least amount of bright in it. But I perceive the opposite. Black looks the worst in the darkest images and actually looks better in brighter images. In the darkest images, black can only be compared by the brain to the room, which is even darker. So by comparison projected black looks lighter. When there's bright in the image, black can be compared to things lighter than it and so can look darker. Even when there's light reflected off the room, projected black is still darker than the bright parts of the image. There's a lot of relative quality here. It's like taking a medium gray and putting it in a checkerboard pattern. When the gray alternates with white, it looks black, When it alternates with black, it looks white.
> 
> It would be nice to have a no-compromise setup, both space and equipment. But that being out of the question, I'm very pleased with the 5050 and do not regret it at all. I could have gone to another brand at the same cost, or gone cheaper, but I don't believe I would have been as satisfied. I'm still considering some improvements for the room and screen, however.


I'm not sure if this would help you on black levels but I found a very happy medium sliding the offset down to 47 or 48 and kept reducing tone 2, 3, 4 in gamma until I was happy. I left all of the other tones at 0. I landed on -8 for tone 2, -7 for tone 3 and -5 for tone 4. I did this using the Natural setting.


----------



## khaberst

So the past few pages have been all about the black levels. I've been using a BenQ 2050 for several years. How would the blacks compare to that? I'm not a keen eye for things like that but would hate to move to an Epson 5050 or LS12000 and it be worse than a 6 year old projector on black levels. I know the contrast is going to not be close but trying to get a baseline understanding of these complaints I'm reading about black levels.


----------



## rekbones

khaberst said:


> So the past few pages have been all about the black levels. I've been using a BenQ 2050 for several years. How would the blacks compare to that? I'm not a keen eye for things like that but would hate to move to an Epson 5050 or LS12000 and it be worse than a 6 year old projector on black levels. I know the contrast is going to not be close but trying to get a baseline understanding of these complaints I'm reading about black levels.


I am sure the 5050 will be a very noticeable increase in black level over any DLP as long as the black floor of your room is less then the projector. If you have a white room and any external ambient light all black level is lost anyways. Contrary to what some think a white room is not a death sentence to black level as long as there is no uncontrolled external ambient light.


----------



## hms17B

DavidK442 said:


> I feel like these two posts provide a realistic view of projector compromises and together, make a very compelling argument for jumping ship to a large OLED panel.


After experimentation, I decided on 100" in my room as being just about the minimum screen size that would make movies seem like movies and not just big TV. I'd be happy to go with a 95-100" OLED if I could get one for the price of the 5050. Actually, not now since I can't justify any more cost for a while. Then again there's the problem of getting a large panel up stairs, around corners, etc. Maybe if we ever get 100"+ flexible and affordable panels.


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## hms17B

DJ KOLA said:


> I'm not sure if this would help you on black levels but I found a very happy medium sliding the offset down to 47 or 48 and kept reducing tone 2, 3, 4 in gamma until I was happy. I left all of the other tones at 0. I landed on -8 for tone 2, -7 for tone 3 and -5 for tone 4. I did this using the Natural setting.


I'm not quite sure which settings you're referring to. Is it the brightness offset? The adjustable points on the gamma curve?


----------



## hms17B

rekbones said:


> I am sure the 5050 will be a very noticeable increase in black level over any DLP as long as the black floor of your room is less then the projector. If you have a white room and any external ambient light all black level is lost anyways. Contrary to what some think a white room is not a death sentence to black level as long as there is no uncontrolled external ambient light.


Yes, no ambient light allowed. That can ruin the projector experience. The only light in the room should come from the projector.

The room is a big factor when the image has a degree of bright in it. Then the black parts of the image are the same darkness as the room walls and ceiling. So black performance of the projector doesn't matter much because the reflections completely overpower it. But the black in the image does not look totally bad because perception compares it to the bright parts of the image and it looks darker than it is by comparison.

However when the image is quite dark, there's not enough bright in it to reflect significantly off the room. Then you will appreciate a good-performing projector for black level. With a poor-performing one, night, caves, dungeons, etc just don't look dark. Perception has nothing bright to compare the black to. It can only compare to the room which now looks even darker than the screen, and so black looks lighter by comparison.


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## DekPM19

Can you Bluetooth a set of headphones to the 5050 to keep from firing up your system to watch non action type of tv.

Allen


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## RRF

*Color Temp (greyscale) vs Color Uniformity*
This may be a "chicken or the egg" scenario.
But when is the best time to calibrate the Color Uniformity.

Color uniformity is basically an 8 point RGB greyscale adjustment, only at 9 areas of the screen, instead of the 1 overall adjustment you get with greyscale.
At factory default settings 100IRE is good, but color uniformity changes as I move from 80IRE to 10IRE. 
With the most significant change in the 50-20IRE range (center of screen moves towards Red, left side moves towards green)

Adjusting the Color Uniformity first would greatly reduce the greyscale adjustments required.
I am thinking that setting the Color Temp, Skin tone and Customized 2-point RGB first, then correcting Color Uniformity before doing the greyscale might be the most effective.


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## Tangu18

Hi all 

first time poster. Appreciate all the info found here. Finishing up a basement reno with light controlled space. Dark walls, dark ceiling. Have never owned a projector. Have space for 115” screen sitting at about 14’.

Main uses will be live sports and movies. 5050 very appealing due to very high praise here and everywhere else. I question though given the things I’ve read re sports and motion with it. Any feedback on live sports. Source will be split between 4K and 1080p through bell Fibe in Canada. Hockey being the main sport watched. Currently I mainly watch on a 55” Sony x900 that has great motion!

As alternatives, I’ve looked into; 
JVC nz3 - worry about noise given it’ll be directly above head when sitting. 
hu810 - terribly advertised contrast and poor blacks given.
Ls12000 - significantly more money but laser, 120hz may make the Jump worth it.

any thoughts/feedback much appreciated!


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## PixelPusher15

Tangu18 said:


> Hi all
> 
> first time poster. Appreciate all the info found here. Finishing up a basement reno with light controlled space. Dark walls, dark ceiling. Have never owned a projector. Have space for 115” screen sitting at about 14’.
> 
> Main uses will be live sports and movies. 5050 very appealing due to very high praise here and everywhere else. I question though given the things I’ve read re sports and motion with it. Any feedback on live sports. Source will be split between 4K and 1080p through bell Fibe in Canada. Hockey being the main sport watched. Currently I mainly watch on a 55” Sony x900 that has great motion!
> 
> As alternatives, I’ve looked into;
> JVC nz3 - worry about noise given it’ll be directly above head when sitting.
> hu810 - terribly advertised contrast and poor blacks given.
> Ls12000 - significantly more money but laser, 120hz may make the Jump worth it.
> 
> any thoughts/feedback much appreciated!


5050 or LS12000.

The JVC is super bright and doesn't have a manual iris to reduce brightness and increase contrast. Bad match for a 115" screen. 

The HU810 is poorly supported by LG. I can go on with a list of issues with it but I'd strongly encourage you to avoid it


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## Tangu18

Thanks @PixelPusher15 for the feedback. 
The 5050 has always been the clear choice when it comes to black levels, colour accuracy and picture quality. 

My only concern with it however is the limited information I've read on it's ability to handle motion given the amount of live sports that will be watched- any feedback on motion when watching cable feeds?

Also, I thought I read something earlier about a recent firmware update to better handle motion but not sure if it was related to the 5050 or another PJ. 
Thanks


----------



## keep amonte

Tangu18 said:


> Hi all
> 
> first time poster. Appreciate all the info found here. Finishing up a basement reno with light controlled space. Dark walls, dark ceiling. Have never owned a projector. Have space for 115” screen sitting at about 14’.
> 
> Main uses will be live sports and movies. 5050 very appealing due to very high praise here and everywhere else. I question though given the things I’ve read re sports and motion with it. Any feedback on live sports. Source will be split between 4K and 1080p through bell Fibe in Canada. Hockey being the main sport watched. Currently I mainly watch on a 55” Sony x900 that has great motion!
> 
> As alternatives, I’ve looked into;
> JVC nz3 - worry about noise given it’ll be directly above head when sitting.
> hu810 - terribly advertised contrast and poor blacks given.
> Ls12000 - significantly more money but laser, 120hz may make the Jump worth it.
> 
> any thoughts/feedback much appreciated!


I have been very pleased with my 6050 with sports. I watch almost all sports with preference to Hockey and Football. I have 4K receivers on Directv and 4KATV for all app related sports. I've never said to myself that I have any issues with motion. With Directv 4K, its been really hit or miss with HDR. When its a miss, its really just too dark and most often I prefer the non 4K feed with my Epson in natural mode, medium. I've had mine for 13 months and have 1600 hours on the bulb in a semi light controlled room. All my app related HDR content has been awesome with this unit!


----------



## NxNW

khaberst said:


> So the past few pages have been all about the black levels. I've been using a BenQ 2050 for several years. How would the blacks compare to that? I'm not a keen eye for things like that but would hate to move to an Epson 5050 or LS12000 and it be worse than a 6 year old projector on black levels. I know the contrast is going to not be close but trying to get a baseline understanding of these complaints I'm reading about black levels.


Right there with you. Time to upgrade my trusty old BenQ 2050. Just went and looked at a 6050 at a bestbuy and yes the black levels are better, as advertised. Ready to take the plunge.


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## khaberst

NxNW said:


> Right there with you. Time to upgrade my trusty old BenQ 2050. Just went and looked at a 6050 at a bestbuy and yes the black levels are better, as advertised. Ready to take the plunge.


I'm torn if I go 5050 (seems like exact same unless you need the parabolic lens) or wait for the LS12000. You considering the 12000 at all?


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## NxNW

Not really. I tend to stay one generation behind the leading edge. Usually that's where the best price : performance ratio lives. The 12000 is a bit more money, and treating the entire projector as 'disposable' when the lasers die annoys me philosophically (even if I'm not likely to encounter the end-of-life issues personally).


----------



## PixelPusher15

Tangu18 said:


> Thanks @PixelPusher15 for the feedback.
> The 5050 has always been the clear choice when it comes to black levels, colour accuracy and picture quality.
> 
> My only concern with it however is the limited information I've read on it's ability to handle motion given the amount of live sports that will be watched- any feedback on motion when watching cable feeds?
> 
> Also, I thought I read something earlier about a recent firmware update to better handle motion but not sure if it was related to the 5050 or another PJ.
> Thanks


DLP projectors have better motion resolution so yes, they will look better for sports. 

That's not saying the 5005 looks bad for sports though. My biggest issue with watching sports on my 123" screen is that the quality of the actual stream always sucks and I can see how terrible it is when it's 123". It honestly looks fine on my 55 and 65" TVs. So, I've had a hard time evaluating sports on my projector. I've pulled up some high quality YouTube soccer recordings and those look phenomenal. But, that's not what I get when I watch the RedZone :/


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## Jmouse007

keep amonte said:


> I have been very pleased with my 6050 with sports. I watch almost all sports with preference to Hockey and Football. I have 4K receivers on Directv and 4KATV for all app related sports. I've never said to myself that I have any issues with motion. With Directv 4K, its been really hit or miss with HDR. When its a miss, its really just too dark and most often I prefer the non 4K feed with my Epson in natural mode, medium. I've had mine for 13 months and have 1600 hours on the bulb in a semi light controlled room. All my app related HDR content has been awesome with this unit!


Go with the EPSON 6050UB, just read and watch the reviews and comparison reviews. You will be glad that you did.


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## jaredmwright

PixelPusher15 said:


> DLP projectors have better motion resolution so yes, they will look better for sports.
> 
> That's not saying the 5005 looks bad for sports though. My biggest issue with watching sports on my 123" screen is that the quality of the actual stream always sucks and I can see how terrible it is when it's 123". It honestly looks fine on my 55 and 65" TVs. So, I've had a hard time evaluating sports on my projector. I've pulled up some high quality YouTube soccer recordings and those look phenomenal. But, that's not what I get when I watch the RedZone :/


Totally agree, the source content for live TV over cable is less than ideal in large format over 100". One day everything will be 4K and streaming and higher quality hopefully.


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## Stephen Shaw

projectorpeople says no stock until September? BH out, Amazon has a couple at 3400. I'm guessing supply chain but if anyone has any real info please post. Hard to pull the trigger on a three year old projector that I can't get for another seven months. $3,400 too much.


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## tmbois

My fellow 5050ers,

Got my projector a few weeks ago. I bought it used from a super trustworthy fellow. (Sidenote: he didn’t have the original box and got UPS to “professionally” pack it for shipping across the country. The thing arrived swimming in a giant box with a few pieces of styrofoam and some air bags floating around it. Miraculously: no issues! The tanks are tougher than they look.)

Aaaaaanyway, my 5050 has got about 1000 hours on it. Throwing 110” from about 17 feet away. Picture quality is unmistakably much better than the BenQ HT2050a it’s replacing, but we’re finding it a bit dim—especially with HDR material. (And I understand the latter is normal to an extent.)

Two questions: will buying a fresh bulb (and/or assembly) give me a noticeable boost in brightness, and if so, is there a consensus good quality aftermarket bulb to buy or should I just pay the Epson Tax?

If not, I’m prepared to keep switching over to the Bright Cinema mode (or customize another one) for HDR/UHD stuff, but if getting a fresh bulb would help, all the better. Thx!


----------



## jaredmwright

tmbois said:


> My fellow 5050ers,
> 
> Got my projector a few weeks ago. I bought it used from a super trustworthy fellow. (Sidenote: he didn’t have the original box and got UPS to “professionally” pack it for shipping across the country. The thing arrived swimming in a giant box with a few pieces of styrofoam and some air bags floating around it. Miraculously: no issues! The tanks are tougher than they look.)
> 
> Aaaaaanyway, my 5050 has got about 1000 hours on it. Throwing 110” from about 17 feet away. Picture quality is unmistakably much better than the BenQ HT2050a it’s replacing, but we’re finding it a bit dim—especially with HDR material. (And I understand the latter is normal to an extent.)
> 
> Two questions: will buying a fresh bulb (and/or assembly) give me a noticeable boost in brightness, and if so, is there a consensus good quality aftermarket bulb to buy or should I just pay the Epson Tax?
> 
> If not, I’m prepared to keep switching over to the Bright Cinema mode (or customize another one) for HDR/UHD stuff, but if getting a fresh bulb would help, all the better. Thx!


1000 hrs should not require a new bulb for that screen size. I would verify your source device settings and ensure you are matching the color space and have calibrated the inputs. Dim is not what I would expect from this model unless maybe using the color filter modes like Cinema and Digital Cinema and you have a lot of ambient light.


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## DavidK442

tmbois said:


> Picture quality is unmistakably much better than the BenQ HT2050a it’s replacing.


Are you able to elaborate on this?
Color’s?
Resolution of detail?
Pixelation?
Contrast?

Thanks.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Stephen Shaw said:


> projectorpeople says no stock until September? BH out, Amazon has a couple at 3400. I'm guessing supply chain but if anyone has any real info please post. Hard to pull the trigger on a three year old projector that I can't get for another seven months. $3,400 too much.


I've seen postings of people asking Epson if they're going to keep the 5050 in production or discontinue it with them refusing to answer which is frustrating. Yeah paying over MSRP is crazy. The whole out of stock thing not knowing what the future holds is very frustrating.


----------



## tmbois

jaredmwright said:


> 1000 hrs should not require a new bulb for that screen size. I would verify your source device settings and ensure you are matching the color space and have calibrated the inputs. Dim is not what I would expect from this model unless maybe using the color filter modes like Cinema and Digital Cinema and you have a lot of ambient light.


Well there’s my problem right there, then!  

But seriously, been watching in Cinema/Digital Cinema almost exclusively, with gusts to Bright Cinema for the HDR stuff. The room isn’t light controlled but really quite dark at night, and those modes are sufficiently bright for SDR content. 

So I guess it’ll be up to me to switch to a brighter mode and tweak until I’m satisfied with the results.

Thanks for saving me some cash, Jared.


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## tmbois

DavidK442 said:


> Are you able to elaborate on this?
> Color’s?
> Resolution of detail?
> Pixelation?
> Contrast?
> 
> Thanks.


I would say “yes to all.” It’s not going to change your life, but it’s very noticeably in a different class. The bump to 4K resolution is actually meaningful on a big screen (much less so on a 52” tv, for example.) HDR gives a lot more depth to the picture (albeit at the expense of contrast at times.) But even the up-sampled 1080p stuff just looks more refined on the 5050. The black levels, as everyone says, aren’t up to OLED standards but they’re visibly better than the HT2050a in pretty much all situations.

For what it’s worth, I made the switch because my room called for it. New house, deeper living room meant I needed a projector with a longer throw, and a used 5050 was in the sweet spot for my budget. Lots of other valid quality-of-life enhancements—programmable zoom settings, motorized lens shift, smoother UI, quieter fan, etc. It’s a more sophisticated product and you don’t need to be a videophile to notice. 

That said, comparing MSRPs, the BenQ still punches well above its weight, and it’s hard to say the 5050 is “four times better” (if such a thing can even be quantified). There’s an element of diminishing returns that applies to all luxury items and the 5050 for $3K is right on the cusp of that category IMO.


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## biglen

tmbois said:


> I would say “yes to all.” It’s not going to change your life, but it’s very noticeably in a different class. The bump to 4K resolution is actually meaningful on a big screen (much less so on a 52” tv, for example.) HDR gives a lot more depth to the picture (albeit at the expense of contrast at times.) But even the up-sampled 1080p stuff just looks more refined on the 5050. The black levels, as everyone says, aren’t up to OLED standards but they’re visibly better than the HT2050a in pretty much all situations.
> 
> For what it’s worth, I made the switch because my room called for it. New house, deeper living room meant I needed a projector with a longer throw, and a used 5050 was in the sweet spot for my budget. Lots of other valid quality-of-life enhancements—programmable zoom settings, motorized lens shift, smoother UI, quieter fan, etc. It’s a more sophisticated product and you don’t need to be a videophile to notice.
> 
> That said, comparing MSRPs, the BenQ still punches well above its weight, and it’s hard to say the 5050 is “four times better” (if such a thing can even be quantified). There’s an element of diminishing returns that applies to all luxury items and the 5050 for $3K is right on the cusp of that category IMO.


Using the 5050 in a light controlled room, can make a huge difference. If you have any ambient light, you won’t see the full potential of the 5050. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Alaric

tmbois said:


> But seriously, been watching in Cinema/Digital Cinema almost exclusively, with gusts to Bright Cinema for the HDR stuff. The room isn’t light controlled but really quite dark at night, and those modes are sufficiently bright for SDR content.


Use Natural for SDR stuff. The Digital Cinema mode has a DCI P3 filter, which is for HDR only, it'll knock your colours out when using Rec 709 for SDR - You will probably need to stopper down the manual iris for SDR as well as it will be putting out too much light. I'm -4 for a 120" 16:9 screen for example.

I'm on 1300hrs and I've got a new EPSON bulb in the box, but haven't felt the need to open it up yet.


----------



## jimed1

Stephen Shaw said:


> projectorpeople says no stock until September? BH out, Amazon has a couple at 3400. I'm guessing supply chain but if anyone has any real info please post. Hard to pull the trigger on a three year old projector that I can't get for another seven months. $3,400 too much.


Best Buy has stock of the 5050 occasionally. Unless you really want a new one you could also keep an eye on the AVS classified for a used one. They are usually selling for around $2000-$2300. They have been popping up fairly regularly for sale and I anticipate there will me more of them as people upgrade to the LS12000. I just picked up a used 6050 there last week for 2700 plus shipping. I don't have a problem staying a generation behind to save a few bucks.


----------



## Werewolf79

My problem with my projector was the bulb, a new one fixed it but messing with calibration I have noticed something, I use X Box to get DisneyPlus as my Panasonic Ub820 does not have that app, anyways I notice no matter what my settings are but using the Panasonic it fails the colour chart test with the flashing dots on the spears and munsil UHD disc but the X Box passes that.

It’s a pain trying to calibrate HDR on a projector, a real nightmare if I am honest, normal Rec 709 is easy but I just don’t get the HDR thing, an example for you, Chromapure instructions say use Rec 2020 mode to calibrate even though it has a DCI-P3 mode to choose from, I don’t understand why you wouldn’t choose that, it baffles me, then whatever you do the colours never seem spot on to me, the brightness nor the saturation points are never as accurate, I end up just putting brightness up all the way just to get 100% of DCI-P3 colour volume, put too low you can end up with 88% or worse, I just cannot get accuracy with HDR but the image seems very watchable.

Dynamic measured 90ft lambert for me, tried it earlier, very bright, double bright cinema but very inaccurate, very much green in the image, calibrate that out and lose the brightness, it’s not worth it.

If anyone has a great HDR workflow with an i1 display pro 3 meter and Chromapure please let me know, I want to jump off a cliff every time I try and calibrate HDR.


----------



## WynsWrld98

jimed1 said:


> Best Buy has stock of the 5050 occasionally. Unless you really want a new one you could also keep an eye on the AVS classified for a used one. They are usually selling for around $2000-$2300. They have been popping up fairly regularly for sale and I anticipate there will me more of them as people upgrade to the LS12000. I just picked up a used 6050 there last week for 2700 plus shipping. I don't have a problem staying a generation behind to save a few bucks.


Warranty isn't transferable which sucks


----------



## fredworld

Werewolf79 said:


> My problem with my projector was the bulb, a new one fixed it but messing with calibration I have noticed something, I use X Box to get DisneyPlus as my Panasonic Ub820 does not have that app, anyways I notice no matter what my settings are but using the Panasonic it fails the colour chart test with the flashing dots on the spears and munsil UHD disc but the X Box passes that.
> 
> It’s a pain trying to calibrate HDR on a projector, a real nightmare if I am honest, normal Rec 709 is easy but I just don’t get the HDR thing, an example for you, Chromapure instructions say use Rec 2020 mode to calibrate even though it has a DCI-P3 mode to choose from, I don’t understand why you wouldn’t choose that, it baffles me, then whatever you do the colours never seem spot on to me, the brightness nor the saturation points are never as accurate, I end up just putting brightness up all the way just to get 100% of DCI-P3 colour volume, put too low you can end up with 88% or worse, I just cannot get accuracy with HDR but the image seems very watchable.
> 
> Dynamic measured 90ft lambert for me, tried it earlier, very bright, double bright cinema but very inaccurate, very much green in the image, calibrate that out and lose the brightness, it’s not worth it.
> 
> If anyone has a great HDR workflow with an i1 display pro 3 meter and Chromapure please let me know, I want to jump off a cliff every time I try and calibrate HDR.


I think S&M says that the UHD Benchmark disc was not designed for projectors. There's a good bit of information that they give about Color on their website in their *Getting Started Guide*. Kicking off their Color section with, "_This adjustment is entirely optional on modern displays, and in fact we recommend not changing it_. " But also, check the *Spears and Munsil UHD Benchmark thread*, perhaps posing your question there will prompt a response from Stacy Spears himself.


----------



## hms17B

biglen said:


> There’s absolutely no comparison between an OLED and a projector. An OLED will never give you the immersion that a 135” projector image gives you. The blacks on my 5050 are amazing in my movie room, that’s treated with black velvet, and black carpet. You couldn’t give me an OLED to replace my 5050. I don’t know if these screenshots do it justice, but they are as black as black ink in person.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


These do look good, but whenever I see such screenshots, I wonder just how it would look to my eyes seeing it in person. Screenshots depend on the camera plus the monitor they're being viewed on and so may not be too accurate. When someone says they see an inky blackness, I don't doubt that they do, but I'm wondering if I would too under the same conditions.

What I would like to see is some shots of similar material, but with the screen border and some of the wall behind also in the shot. Then photographed overexposed or in some sort of low light mode so the black part of the screen image looks gray in the photo. If the projected image black is truly as dark as the room and/or screen border, then in the photo, the black within the screen should look as dark as the black outside the screen. I suspect that when shot that way, the black within will turn out to be discernibly lighter than the black without.


----------



## biglen

hms17B said:


> These do look good, but whenever I see such screenshots, I wonder just how it would look to my eyes seeing it in person. Screenshots depend on the camera plus the monitor they're being viewed on and so may not be too accurate. When someone says they see an inky blackness, I don't doubt that they do, but I'm wondering if I would too under the same conditions.
> 
> What I would like to see is some shots of similar material, but with the screen border and some of the wall behind also in the shot. Then photographed overexposed or in some sort of low light mode so the black part of the screen image looks gray in the photo. If the projected image black is truly as dark as the room and/or screen border, then in the photo, the black within the screen should look as dark as the black outside the screen. I suspect that when shot that way, the black within will turn out to be discernibly lighter than the black without.


I’m not using a traditional screen. It’s a painted screen, using Black Flame Interstellar screen paint. The image looks even better in person, trust me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bacon_and_Scotch

I'm looking to purchase the EH-TW9400 (6050UB) here in France towards the end of April - We move into our new home in April. Buying the projector now and then moving it later brings extra cost and risk that makes that whole scenario feel...convoluted, at best. That said, I've noticed that several online vendors here have been out of stock for some weeks since I bookmarked them some months ago. I also know that Epson's new line of EH-LS12000B (and 11000 for that matter) are the new top of range options. Does anybody know whether Epson will continue to produce the 6050UB / EH-TW9400? -I'm trying to avoid the scenario where I can't buy this model anymore for having waited too long. In other words, going through the convoluted scenario of buying now and and having an extra very fragile box to ship to my new home is perferable to arriving at the end of April only to discover that I need to fork out another 2K Euros for the EH-LS12000B because nobody can get any stock of the EH-TW9400 anymore. Just wondering if anybody knows whether this model is being phased out or not. Thanks for your patience in reading my long-winded post.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Werewolf79 said:


> My problem with my projector was the bulb, a new one fixed it but messing with calibration I have noticed something, I use X Box to get DisneyPlus as my Panasonic Ub820 does not have that app, anyways I notice no matter what my settings are but using the Panasonic it fails the colour chart test with the flashing dots on the spears and munsil UHD disc but the X Box passes that.
> 
> It’s a pain trying to calibrate HDR on a projector, a real nightmare if I am honest, normal Rec 709 is easy but I just don’t get the HDR thing, an example for you, Chromapure instructions say use Rec 2020 mode to calibrate even though it has a DCI-P3 mode to choose from, I don’t understand why you wouldn’t choose that, it baffles me, then whatever you do the colours never seem spot on to me, the brightness nor the saturation points are never as accurate, I end up just putting brightness up all the way just to get 100% of DCI-P3 colour volume, put too low you can end up with 88% or worse, I just cannot get accuracy with HDR but the image seems very watchable.
> 
> Dynamic measured 90ft lambert for me, tried it earlier, very bright, double bright cinema but very inaccurate, very much green in the image, calibrate that out and lose the brightness, it’s not worth it.
> 
> If anyone has a great HDR workflow with an i1 display pro 3 meter and Chromapure please let me know, I want to jump off a cliff every time I try and calibrate HDR.


Are you calibrating for HDR in Digital Cinema? Otherwise you're not going to hit 100% P3. 88% makes sense if you are calibrating in natural. 

I could probably help you if you were using HCFR but I'm not familiar with the Chromapure workflow. For HDR on this projector you shouldn't touch brightness, leave it at 50. Contrast will probably need to be boosted to 60 but after that you are going to causes issues. A custom gamma curve will also probably be needed and then you'll most likely be tweaking things in the CMS. I didn't find I needed to go too crazy with things once I got my EOTF down.


----------



## Bacon_and_Scotch

Bacon_and_Scotch said:


> I'm looking to purchase the EH-TW9400 (6050UB) here in France towards the end of April - We move into our new home in April. Buying the projector now and then moving it later brings extra cost and risk that makes that whole scenario feel...convoluted, at best. That said, I've noticed that several online vendors here have been out of stock for some weeks since I bookmarked them some months ago. I also know that Epson's new line of EH-LS12000B (and 11000 for that matter) are the new top of range options. Does anybody know whether Epson will continue to produce the 6050UB / EH-TW9400? -I'm trying to avoid the scenario where I can't buy this model anymore for having waited too long. In other words, going through the convoluted scenario of buying now and and having an extra very fragile box to ship to my new home is perferable to arriving at the end of April only to discover that I need to fork out another 2K Euros for the EH-LS12000B because nobody can get any stock of the EH-TW9400 anymore. Just wondering if anybody knows whether this model is being phased out or not. Thanks for your patience in reading my long-winded post.


Maybe I've answered my own question:


----------



## fredworld

Bacon_and_Scotch said:


> Maybe I've answered my own question:
> View attachment 3248152


I guess I'm not surprised. On February 15 Epson Support told me they had no information on discontinuance. I just checked the US Epson site. The 5050 is out of stock and the 6050 is not listed in either the Pro Cinema nor Home Cinema projectors. Best Buy shows the 5050 as Sold Out and the 6050 as In Store Only.


----------



## Alaric

Werewolf79 said:


> It’s a pain trying to calibrate HDR on a projector, a real nightmare if I am honest, normal Rec 709 is easy but I just don’t get the HDR thing, an example for you, Chromapure instructions say use Rec 2020 mode to calibrate even though it has a DCI-P3 mode to choose from, I don’t understand why you wouldn’t choose that, it baffles me, then whatever you do the colours never seem spot on to me, the brightness nor the saturation points are never as accurate, I end up just putting brightness up all the way just to get 100% of DCI-P3 colour volume, put too low you can end up with 88% or worse, I just cannot get accuracy with HDR but the image seems very watchable.
> 
> Dynamic measured 90ft lambert for me, tried it earlier, very bright, double bright cinema but very inaccurate, very much green in the image, calibrate that out and lose the brightness, it’s not worth it.
> 
> If anyone has a great HDR workflow with an i1 display pro 3 meter and Chromapure please let me know, I want to jump off a cliff every time I try and calibrate HDR.











Calibrating HDR on Epson 5040/6040 projectors


I would also try sticking with a master MaxL value of 4000 nits for everything. This will sacrifice some highlights on some titles but overall it's probably better as I suspect the range just above diffuse white (50-60%) stimulus might be overemphasized especially for daylight scenes. Would you...




www.avsforum.com





Is reasonable. It's for HCFR but most the basic principles and order should be fine. 
Agreed that SDR is pretty easy, though a good place to start with getting a feel for how to calibrate and how this projector and functions work.

The Greyscale is pretty reasonable. I do some broad strokes with cuts and gains to get it reasonable over all, then into 8pt to tweak and get better, though i've found perfect at this point is a folly as you have to go back around to check stuff.

Colour is harder and you can't get perfect, even with the Digital filter. I normally go for 75% and check 50% too and then go through adjustment to bring down the overall DE without throwing 75/50 too out. It's a compromise whatever you do as even with the filter, getting BT2020 isn't doable


----------



## tmbois

WynsWrld98 said:


> Warranty isn't transferable which sucks


Bought mine from an above-and-beyond seller who included the original sales invoice and offered to be an interloper for me if anything goes wrong with the projector while it’s still under warranty. I realize not all sellers are this generous, but they’re out there!


----------



## tmbois

Bacon_and_Scotch said:


> I'm looking to purchase the EH-TW9400 (6050UB) here in France towards the end of April - We move into our new home in April. Buying the projector now and then moving it later brings extra cost and risk that makes that whole scenario feel...convoluted, at best. That said, I've noticed that several online vendors here have been out of stock for some weeks since I bookmarked them some months ago. I also know that Epson's new line of EH-LS12000B (and 11000 for that matter) are the new top of range options. Does anybody know whether Epson will continue to produce the 6050UB / EH-TW9400? -I'm trying to avoid the scenario where I can't buy this model anymore for having waited too long. In other words, going through the convoluted scenario of buying now and and having an extra very fragile box to ship to my new home is perferable to arriving at the end of April only to discover that I need to fork out another 2K Euros for the EH-LS12000B because nobody can get any stock of the EH-TW9400 anymore. Just wondering if anybody knows whether this model is being phased out or not. Thanks for your patience in reading my long-winded post.


My 5050 survived a trip across the US (~2500 miles) packaged in a way I would have deemed inadequate for a trip to the garage. I was sure it was going to have focus/alignment/etc issues but when I powered it up it was working perfectly. I don’t blame you for not wanting to take any risks but either I was extremely lucky or these projectors are considerably tougher than I thought.


----------



## hms17B

biglen said:


> I’m not using a traditional screen. It’s a painted screen, using Black Flame Interstellar screen paint. The image looks even better in person, trust me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Would you (or anyone) be able to take a screenshot like I described? Where an overexposed shot includes both the screen and the wall behind the screen. That should show a degree of difference between screen black and room black if there is a difference. If the screen is truly very black then there should be little difference evident in the photo. I can take a photo of my screen, and blacks look very dark, like in other's photos, but I don't see it that dark when actually looking at the screen with my own eyes. If I overexpose the shot, then I can see the difference in the photo.

I ask this because many say they see really dark black, and I don't see it that dark on mine. I'm trying to determine if others actually are getting darker black than I am. I suspect they're not, but if they are, I'd like to determine why. It's not that I'm dissatisfied, but I would like a fuller perspective on the matter. Some of it may be a matter of the sensitivity of one's eyes to light. More sensitive eyes won't see things as dark as less sensitive do.

Actually, the best test of black performance is not a high contrast image but a no-contrast one, something like the Spears and Munsil 0% window where the entire screen is black. I doubt that anyone showing that in any room, no matter how well treated, would see a genuinely black image.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Bacon_and_Scotch said:


> I'm looking to purchase the EH-TW9400 (6050UB) here in France towards the end of April - We move into our new home in April. Buying the projector now and then moving it later brings extra cost and risk that makes that whole scenario feel...convoluted, at best. That said, I've noticed that several online vendors here have been out of stock for some weeks since I bookmarked them some months ago. I also know that Epson's new line of EH-LS12000B (and 11000 for that matter) are the new top of range options. Does anybody know whether Epson will continue to produce the 6050UB / EH-TW9400? -I'm trying to avoid the scenario where I can't buy this model anymore for having waited too long. In other words, going through the convoluted scenario of buying now and and having an extra very fragile box to ship to my new home is perferable to arriving at the end of April only to discover that I need to fork out another 2K Euros for the EH-LS12000B because nobody can get any stock of the EH-TW9400 anymore. Just wondering if anybody knows whether this model is being phased out or not. Thanks for your patience in reading my long-winded post.


Seeing as mercury in projector lamps will be phased out due to regulation ultimo 2024 the 9400 will inevitably get phased out. However, Epson haven't made it clear wether or not the 9400 will stay in lineup until then.. Personally i wouldn't wait.. In fact i am saving to buy another 9400 as i use my projector too much for laser,i just hope i can save enough before it goes out of stock here.


----------



## NxNW

Walked into a Best Buy today and gave them $4k for a 6050. They said I could come back this weekend to pick it up.


----------



## Lord of Cinder

PixelPusher15 said:


> Your custom Gamma is interesting and goes in the opposite direction my custom gamma goes for a 1000 nit HDR curve.
> 
> Mine is much more like this image I found on the web but the far right tone is maxed out
> View attachment 3244144
> 
> 
> I'm switching over to a X790/RS540 but maybe before I get rid of this 5050 I'll capture some of my settings for HDR and others can try them. I'm using Natural at mid lamp since I don't like the black floor being elevated so much. I get about 80-85 nits in this setup. It makes it so I have to clip highlights a bit more but low-end scenes pack punch and have good depth. Maybe the settings could help/inspire others. Of course I'll put the giant caveat that all projector setups are different and settings of one projector may look like dog doo doo on another.


Waiting for your settings to probe in my projector.


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## Enchy

Just to confirm my understanding, when given the ability to customize the HDR signal, I should send it for max 1000nit min 0nit and let the projector handle the tone mapping from there, correct? This is for my PS5, not LLDV.


----------



## NxNW

NxNW said:


> Walked into a Best Buy today and gave them $4k for a 6050. They said I could come back this weekend to pick it up.


 Replying to my own post, now the expected arrival seems to have slipped to _next_ Saturday… Anyway, it _is_ possible to order these projectors in stores at the moment, but they may not just hand you one on the spot. Apparently they're having to source them from other stores around the country that still have stock..


----------



## dane10

I just won a used 5050UB off ebay. So far I'm loving it. I've started playing around with some of the calibration settings. The manual iris and brightness settings have me a bit confused. From the Owner's Guide I understand that brightness settings don't affect the lamp brightness, only the Power Consumption mode affects it. I have been trying to figure out how to change the black levels. I've turned off auto iris and am running the lamp in ECO mode. I tried setting manual Iris all the way to -20. This seemed to make a very subtle or even no difference in the overall brightness of the image and the black levels. I could hear the iris motor making a noise as I changed the iris setting. Is the lamp brightness being bumped up to compensate for the closed down iris, even in ECO mode? I expected this would probably make the image very dim but reduce the black levels. Are there other settings I should check or is this pretty much the expected behavior?
Dan


----------



## pyrobuilder

I've dug around docs "Epson - Web API Specifications for projectors", as well as the "ESC/VP21 Command User’s Guide", but I just can't seam to get my Epson 6050UB to work with any of the api call's. I'm specifically trying to recall saved lens memories via the network connectivity. I know it is cabled correctly, since I can use PJLink via my Home Assistant to power on/off the projector over the network. Any help to eliminate one extra remote in my stack would be VERY appreciated.

Below is an example of just calling the api to power on. The response is a 404, not found, but the server header is clearly showing the response from the Epson Projector:


Code:


% curl -I "http://192.168.1.80/api/v01/contentmgr/remote/power/on"
HTTP/1.1 404 Not Found
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Length: 345
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1970 22:13:27 GMT
Server: SEIKO EPSON CORPORATION

Am I just missing something stupid like enabling the API, etc?


----------



## PixelPusher15

pyrobuilder said:


> I've dug around docs "Epson - Web API Specifications for projectors", as well as the "ESC/VP21 Command User’s Guide", but I just can't seam to get my Epson 6050UB to work with any of the api call's. I'm specifically trying to recall saved lens memories via the network connectivity. I know it is cabled correctly, since I can use PJLink via my Home Assistant to power on/off the projector over the network. Any help to eliminate one extra remote in my stack would be VERY appreciated.
> 
> Below is an example of just calling the api to power on. The response is a 404, not found, but the server header is clearly showing the response from the Epson Projector:
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> % curl -I "http://192.168.1.80/api/v01/contentmgr/remote/power/on"
> HTTP/1.1 404 Not Found
> Content-Type: text/html
> Content-Length: 345
> Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1970 22:13:27 GMT
> Server: SEIKO EPSON CORPORATION
> 
> Am I just missing something stupid like enabling the API, etc?











HTWebRemote: Simple remote control of your home theater...


Simple remote control of your home theater devices and HTPC from any web browser I just put up the little control program I made for controlling my HTPC and some home theater devices. The idea behind the program is you run it on your PC (RasPi support coming soon) and it lets you build simple...




www.avsforum.com





@SirMaster’s web remote works. You might find that he’s done all the programming you need (it accepts command prompts) but he also might be willing to help you troubleshoot.


----------



## PixelPusher15

dane10 said:


> I just won a used 5050UB off ebay. So far I'm loving it. I've started playing around with some of the calibration settings. The manual iris and brightness settings have me a bit confused. From the Owner's Guide I understand that brightness settings don't affect the lamp brightness, only the Power Consumption mode affects it. I have been trying to figure out how to change the black levels. I've turned off auto iris and am running the lamp in ECO mode. I tried setting manual Iris all the way to -20. This seemed to make a very subtle or even no difference in the overall brightness of the image and the black levels. I could hear the iris motor making a noise as I changed the iris setting. Is the lamp brightness being bumped up to compensate for the closed down iris, even in ECO mode? I expected this would probably make the image very dim but reduce the black levels. Are there other settings I should check or is this pretty much the expected behavior?
> Dan


Seems strange that you can’t see the difference when going to -20 on the iris. Maybe adjusting it slowly is messing your your perception? You could try saving a memory preset with the iris at 0 and then another at -20. Then switch between the two and I’d be shocked if you didn’t see a difference.

Oh, brightness will affect black level but really only for the worse.If you raise it much over 50 then it’s likely to raise the black level (bad). But don’t drop it much below 50 or you will crush shadow detail. The level should be set with a brightness plunge pattern. Here’s a good one for simple SDR calibration:


----------



## pyrobuilder

PixelPusher15 said:


> HTWebRemote: Simple remote control of your home theater...
> 
> 
> Simple remote control of your home theater devices and HTPC from any web browser I just put up the little control program I made for controlling my HTPC and some home theater devices. The idea behind the program is you run it on your PC (RasPi support coming soon) and it lets you build simple...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @SirMaster’s web remote works. You might find that he’s done all the programming you need (it accepts command prompts) but he also might be willing to help you troubleshoot.


Thanks, that gives some direction.


----------



## pottscb

dane10 said:


> I just won a used 5050UB off ebay. So far I'm loving it. I've started playing around with some of the calibration settings. The manual iris and brightness settings have me a bit confused. From the Owner's Guide I understand that brightness settings don't affect the lamp brightness, only the Power Consumption mode affects it. I have been trying to figure out how to change the black levels. I've turned off auto iris and am running the lamp in ECO mode. I tried setting manual Iris all the way to -20. This seemed to make a very subtle or even no difference in the overall brightness of the image and the black levels. I could hear the iris motor making a noise as I changed the iris setting. Is the lamp brightness being bumped up to compensate for the closed down iris, even in ECO mode? I expected this would probably make the image very dim but reduce the black levels. Are there other settings I should check or is this pretty much the expected behavior?
> Dan


Are you going for “best black level” or highest contrast image, because these will require two completely different settings. Blacked black will generally be brained from low/eco lamp and iris completely clamped down…highest contrast should be high lamp with iris clamped down…either one will compress whites to some degree, this is what irises do. Many prefer high lamp with iris partially closed which is a compromise between best blacks and nice bright whites though it won’t measure as well in this configuration.


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## pottscb

Best Buy, Amazon, ProjectorSuperstore have either 5050/6050 in stock today in Central Texas for local pickup…Projector People (backordered). From speaking with Magnolia guys the shortage isn’t because of discontinuation, it’s because the lame-o chip shortage…you can’t even get dishwashers and washer/dryers right now…everything got “too smart” and now it’s too available.(my sink, soap/hot water and Brillo pads are still functioning thankfully!).

How’s that IoT working out now? Connected fridges LOL! (Sorry I went O.T.)


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## marantz545

Question for you 5050/6050 folks… If I rip all my movies to my PC and stream with Plex, how do I adjust HDR? Am I limited to the Epson’s internal slider? I have a Panasonic 820 that has good HDR adjustments, but I like the convenience of Plex.


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## PixelPusher15

marantz545 said:


> Question for you 5050/6050 folks… If I rip all my movies to my PC and stream with Plex, how do I adjust HDR? Am I limited to the Epson’s internal slider? I have a Panasonic 820 that has good HDR adjustments, but I like the convenience of Plex.


Yup. Unless you use Plex to do HDR to SDR transcoding. I have no idea how good it is at that job even though I built a PC/server specifically powerful enough to do so. lol


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## hms17B

Any opinions on a best setting for the manual iris? I've been comparing various values, but my jury is still deliberating.


----------



## jaredmwright

marantz545 said:


> Question for you 5050/6050 folks… If I rip all my movies to my PC and stream with Plex, how do I adjust HDR? Am I limited to the Epson’s internal slider? I have a Panasonic 820 that has good HDR adjustments, but I like the convenience of Plex.


Build a Video processor and MadVR PC, that will provide the best results.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> Any opinions on a best setting for the manual iris? I've been comparing various values, but my jury is still deliberating.


Your jury is the only jury that matters. Brightness or contrast? Or brightness, contrast AND fan noise.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Your jury is the only jury that matters. Brightness or contrast? Or brightness, contrast AND fan noise.


High lamp is just too loud. I think I've been scared away from Eco lamp. So that leaves medium.
I tried manual iris all over its range. Down for better black in dark scenes, but dimmer in mid scenes. Up just the opposite, of course. In bright scenes, I could live with it most anywhere. I sort of settled at -12.


----------



## CZ Eddie

Had to set my 5050ub to "standard" EDID instead of "enhanced".
The enhanced resulted in no picture when going through my Denon AVR via a 30' HDMI run.








Amazon.com: 30FT Premium Gold Plated 4K HDMI Cable with Audio & Ethernet Return Channel, 2160p, Compatible with TV, DVD, PS4, Xbox, Bluray (30FT, Black) : Electronics


Buy 30FT Premium Gold Plated 4K HDMI Cable with Audio & Ethernet Return Channel, 2160p, Compatible with TV, DVD, PS4, Xbox, Bluray (30FT, Black): HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





If I bypass the AVR, I can use enhanced. But my AVR is in another room, so I like to run the projector through the AVR so I can see the volume onscreen when I adjust it.

What am I missing out on by using standard EDID until I can run new/better HDMI cables?
I just played a 4K UHD 24hz and the resolution and HDR are showing up on the projector info screen.
Not sure I have any 60hz movies to test.

*Edit*: Better HDMI cables fixed the issue for me.


----------



## CZ Eddie

Btw, what's the best cheap 30' HDMI that will support the full bandwidth needed to get Enhanced EDID working again?
It worked fine with shorter cables, so I suspect the new longer cable is my issue.

Edit:
Just bought a couple of these HDMI 2.1 cables.








Amazon.com: 8K HDMI Cable Long 2.1 30FT/9M, Highwings 48Gbps High Speed HDMI 4K120 144Hz Dynamic HDR 10 eARC HDCP 2.2&2.3 Compatible for PS5, Blu-ray Player and Monitor : Electronics


Amazon.com: 8K HDMI Cable Long 2.1 30FT/9M, Highwings 48Gbps High Speed HDMI 4K120 144Hz Dynamic HDR 10 eARC HDCP 2.2&2.3 Compatible for PS5, Blu-ray Player and Monitor : Electronics



www.amazon.com





Edit 2: 
That did the trick. No more buying cheap HDMI cables for me!


----------



## DigitalAV

marantz545 said:


> Question for you 5050/6050 folks… If I rip all my movies to my PC and stream with Plex, how do I adjust HDR? Am I limited to the Epson’s internal slider? I have a Panasonic 820 that has good HDR adjustments, but I like the convenience of Plex.




I would definitely try Plex, check this out:


----------



## Alaric

dane10 said:


> I just won a used 5050UB off ebay. So far I'm loving it. I've started playing around with some of the calibration settings. The manual iris and brightness settings have me a bit confused. From the Owner's Guide I understand that brightness settings don't affect the lamp brightness, only the Power Consumption mode affects it. I have been trying to figure out how to change the black levels. I've turned off auto iris and am running the lamp in ECO mode. I tried setting manual Iris all the way to -20. This seemed to make a very subtle or even no difference in the overall brightness of the image and the black levels. I could hear the iris motor making a noise as I changed the iris setting. Is the lamp brightness being bumped up to compensate for the closed down iris, even in ECO mode? I expected this would probably make the image very dim but reduce the black levels. Are there other settings I should check or is this pretty much the expected behavior?
> Dan



Are we talking SDR / HDR ?

SDR you want to calibrate to 14-16ft and that is where the manual iris will help. A light meter and full field white pattern is how you set properly.
You probably want Eco mode here. Natural is a good setting for colour accuracy and tends to be quite good from the box and is what most build an SDR calibration off.
The Manual Iris will be different setting for each installation, as it depends on screen size and how close your projector is to the screen.
You can use test patterns to set Contrast and Brightness controls. 
There are tweaks in calibration you can do to help black levels, but you really need a meter and software to set well.

The auto iris tends to help in dark scenes lowering the light output and black levels, then opens up in light scenes to improve light output. It isn't perfect but tends to help and is pretty good. The trade off is a bit of noise and occasionally pumping - i've only really noticed in white credits on black which are very spread out. End of movie and who cares 

You may also want to look at Gamma. -2 tends to work for basic settings here. 

HDR is somewhat more complex here as generally you will want to have the Iris fully open. High or Medium power. Digital Cinema is the best for accuracy but the light hit, if you have a BIG screen can be an issue. Dynamic can be better for light and has a more aggressive dynamic iris but also needs a lot of tweaking/calibration to get the best of. 

The 5050 is good for black levels, but far from the king and it will also depend on your room and light bounce back.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Where are people finding new (not refurb) 6050s to buy before they're gone? I'm in Washington state. I really need black for my room vs the white of the 5050.


----------



## pottscb

WynsWrld98 said:


> Where are people finding new (not refurb) 6050s to buy before they're gone? I'm in Washington state. I really need black for my room vs the white of the 5050.


Best Buy in Austin, you might call them and see if they’ll ship, or see if your local store can transfer it.


----------



## fredworld

pottscb said:


> Best Buy in Austin, you might call them and see if they’ll ship, or see if your local store can transfer it.


Similarly with *Best Buy Wilmington, DE* although the site says "In Store Only."


----------



## SimpleTheater

biglen said:


> Using the 5050 in a light controlled room, can make a huge difference. If you have any ambient light, you won’t see the full potential of the 5050.


I have a light controlled room, but when guests are over for a sports game, I keep the lights on just enough so the chips don't hit the floor. That little bit of light really hurts the picture quality. Usually, after half an hour, I will turn off the lights completely, accepting that I'll be picking vacuuming up some crumbs after the event.


----------



## RRF

How you design your lighting is crucial for when you need to have some lighting.
You cannot have any light with a direct path to the screen.
Blackout window coverings are a must at all times...even a crack of daylight will flood the room.
Ceiling pot lights and regular table lamps are a big no no.
Wall sconces and directional spots which can be dimmed work well.
I have no issues watching sports at medium power with a few wall sconces and the pool table spots on.


----------



## Maineiac12

CZ Eddie said:


> Btw, what's the best cheap 30' HDMI that will support the full bandwidth needed to get Enhanced EDID working again?
> It worked fine with shorter cables, so I suspect the new longer cable is my issue.
> 
> Edit:
> Just bought a couple of these HDMI 2.1 cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: 8K HDMI Cable Long 2.1 30FT/9M, Highwings 48Gbps High Speed HDMI 4K120 144Hz Dynamic HDR 10 eARC HDCP 2.2&2.3 Compatible for PS5, Blu-ray Player and Monitor : Electronics
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: 8K HDMI Cable Long 2.1 30FT/9M, Highwings 48Gbps High Speed HDMI 4K120 144Hz Dynamic HDR 10 eARC HDCP 2.2&2.3 Compatible for PS5, Blu-ray Player and Monitor : Electronics
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


I’ve had good luck with the monoprice certified cables for longer runs. They can be had on Amazon too.






Monoprice 4K Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable 3ft - 18Gbps Black - Monoprice.com


Monoprice's Certified Premium High Speed HDMI® Cable is designed to meet and exceed the highest standards of HDMI performance. Capable of delivering 18Gbps bandwidth, the



www.monoprice.com


----------



## RRF

+1 on the Monoprice.
It is hard to believe, but I am using 30ft. Monoprice HDMI cables purchased in 2008 for my Epson 5050ub, and it is working fine with 4K 60Hz HDR signals on Extended EDID. Mind you, they are thick cables.
Although today I would probably consider optical cables.


----------



## dane10

PixelPusher15 said:


> Seems strange that you can’t see the difference when going to -20 on the iris. Maybe adjusting it slowly is messing your your perception? You could try saving a memory preset with the iris at 0 and then another at -20. Then switch between the two and I’d be shocked if you didn’t see a difference.
> 
> Oh, brightness will affect black level but really only for the worse.If you raise it much over 50 then it’s likely to raise the black level (bad). But don’t drop it much below 50 or you will crush shadow detail. The level should be set with a brightness plunge pattern. Here’s a good one for simple SDR calibration:


Thanks for the link PixelPusher, that did help. I can see the difference between manual iris set at 0 and at -20 and it's definitely easier after making presets to jump between 0 and -20. It's more subtle than I expected but at least I can see that the iris is working. Good advice on the brightness setting, the flashing bars in your video start to disappear right around 50 and below.
Dan


----------



## dane10

pottscb said:


> Are you going for “best black level” or highest contrast image, because these will require two completely different settings. Blacked black will generally be brained from low/eco lamp and iris completely clamped down…highest contrast should be high lamp with iris clamped down…either one will compress whites to some degree, this is what irises do. Many prefer high lamp with iris partially closed which is a compromise between best blacks and nice bright whites though it won’t measure as well in this configuration.


At this stage I'm just trying to get a feeling for the magnitude of the effects of different settings and make sure everything is working with the projector. My setup is still very crude, I'm just projecting onto a yellowish/white wall in the basement while I complete a spandex screen. Despite this, the picture from this projector looks absolutely amazing to me...
Dan


----------



## dane10

Alaric said:


> Are we talking SDR / HDR ?
> 
> SDR you want to calibrate to 14-16ft and that is where the manual iris will help. A light meter and full field white pattern is how you set properly.
> You probably want Eco mode here. Natural is a good setting for colour accuracy and tends to be quite good from the box and is what most build an SDR calibration off.
> The Manual Iris will be different setting for each installation, as it depends on screen size and how close your projector is to the screen.
> You can use test patterns to set Contrast and Brightness controls.
> There are tweaks in calibration you can do to help black levels, but you really need a meter and software to set well.
> 
> The auto iris tends to help in dark scenes lowering the light output and black levels, then opens up in light scenes to improve light output. It isn't perfect but tends to help and is pretty good. The trade off is a bit of noise and occasionally pumping - i've only really noticed in white credits on black which are very spread out. End of movie and who cares
> 
> You may also want to look at Gamma. -2 tends to work for basic settings here.
> 
> HDR is somewhat more complex here as generally you will want to have the Iris fully open. High or Medium power. Digital Cinema is the best for accuracy but the light hit, if you have a BIG screen can be an issue. Dynamic can be better for light and has a more aggressive dynamic iris but also needs a lot of tweaking/calibration to get the best of.
> 
> The 5050 is good for black levels, but far from the king and it will also depend on your room and light bounce back.


I'm not sure whether the content I was feeding it at the time of my post was SDR or HDR. It was a show my wife was watching on Netflix that appeared to be in 2.35:1 so was looking at the visibility of the black bars at the top and bottom of the image. I think "projector info" registered as HDR10 but I'm not sure. Since then, I've used Pixelpusher's AVS HD 709 Brightness Calibration link to try out the effects of lamp mode/iris settings/etc. on black levels and overall brightness. All done by eye so far just to try to get a subjective impression on how much some of the settings change the image. I'm still building a spandex screen so anything I'm doing on the calibration side is just playing around at this point.
Dan


----------



## hms17B

pottscb said:


> Are you going for “best black level” or highest contrast image, because these will require two completely different settings. Blacked black will generally be brained from low/eco lamp and iris completely clamped down…highest contrast should be high lamp with iris clamped down…either one will compress whites to some degree, this is what irises do. Many prefer high lamp with iris partially closed which is a compromise between best blacks and nice bright whites though it won’t measure as well in this configuration.


What do you think of the overall image when the iris is all the way down? I've been trying it at various degrees and am still not quite sure just what I think. The lamp is another thing - high lamp is so loud and eco has all these stories about flicker.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> What do you think of the overall image when the iris is all the way down? I've been trying it at various degrees and am still not quite sure just what I think. The lamp is another thing - high lamp is so loud and eco has all these stories about flicker.


I think the Eco stuff is wildly overblown. It's also silly IMO. People say the lamp will flicker in Eco but won't in High so use High. But if it starts to flicker then use High to make it go away. Then why not just use Eco as long as you can and then switch to High if you need to?

On my 123" 0.8 gain screen I ran my 5050 in Eco with the iris at -11 to hit 60 nits for SDR. I also used madVR to tone map to that 60 nits since I liked the black floor at that level. When I didn't have madVR I ran HDR at Medium with the iris at -4. (I forgot what this hit but I think it was around 80-85 nits)

On my 5050 I got about 6000:1 for contrast with Eco and -11. Full open my 5050 measured around 4200:1. I liked the contrast boost, personally. Dropping the iris to -20 I'd get around 7000:1. 

Fun story, I can hit 12000:1. If you put the projector in Dynamic, set the lamp to Eco, and drop the iris to -20 (it only works in Dynamic when the lamp is set to Eco), the iris seems to have an additional drop between -19 and -20 vs the other color modes. This allows that 12000:1 number. It's an incredibly unhelpful setup. You get a green dim image...but it is technically the max native contrast, lol.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> Fun story, I can hit 12000:1. If you put the projector in Dynamic, set the lamp to Eco, and drop the iris to -20 (it only works in Dynamic when the lamp is set to Eco), the iris seems to have an additional drop between -19 and -20 vs the other color modes. This allows that 12000:1 number. It's an incredibly unhelpful setup. You get a green dim image...but it is technically the max native contrast, lol.


I _DID_ wonder what could be done. You may also be able to use the CMS and other settings to improve this. A load of cuts at the low end and gains at the high end. Utterly silly in terms of watchability but my mind does wander into the absurd at times


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> I think the Eco stuff is wildly overblown. It's also silly IMO. People say the lamp will flicker in Eco but won't in High so use High. But if it starts to flicker then use High to make it go away. Then why not just use Eco as long as you can and then switch to High if you need to?
> 
> On my 123" 0.8 gain screen I ran my 5050 in Eco with the iris at -11 to hit 60 nits for SDR. I also used madVR to tone map to that 60 nits since I liked the black floor at that level. When I didn't have madVR I ran HDR at Medium with the iris at -4. (I forgot what this hit but I think it was around 80-85 nits)
> 
> On my 5050 I got about 6000:1 for contrast with Eco and -11. Full open my 5050 measured around 4200:1. I liked the contrast boost, personally. Dropping the iris to -20 I'd get around 7000:1.
> 
> Fun story, I can hit 12000:1. If you put the projector in Dynamic, set the lamp to Eco, and drop the iris to -20 (it only works in Dynamic when the lamp is set to Eco), the iris seems to have an additional drop between -19 and -20 vs the other color modes. This allows that 12000:1 number. It's an incredibly unhelpful setup. You get a green dim image...but it is technically the max native contrast, lol.


I don't want to run high lamp regularly since it's so noisy, but will try eco for SDR and medium for HDR. Dynamic looks awful as is and I wouldn't be surprised if there are things in it that can't be overridden in the user menus. I'm quite satisfied, except when there's a really dark scene - then I wish it could go a bit darker. I'll watch some more with the iris down low and see what I think. Thanks again for all the testing you've done - way beyond what many of us can attempt. Lots of helpful tips in there.


----------



## JoeBoy73

Hello Everyone, I'm thinking to go with the 6050, but I was curious about seeing the "screen door effect" from my seating distance of 13ft on 120in screen. Thoughts?


----------



## Enchy

JoeBoy73 said:


> Hello Everyone, I'm thinking to go with the 6050, but I was curious about seeing the "screen door effect" from my seating distance of 13ft on 120in screen. Thoughts?


I sit 9.5ish feet from a 120inch and I've never seen anything like a screen door effect.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> I don't want to run high lamp regularly since it's so noisy, but will try eco for SDR and medium for HDR. Dynamic looks awful as is and I wouldn't be surprised if there are things in it that can't be overridden in the user menus. I'm quite satisfied, except when there's a really dark scene - then I wish it could go a bit darker. I'll watch some more with the iris down low and see what I think. Thanks again for all the testing you've done - way beyond what many of us can attempt. Lots of helpful tips in there.


Dynamic serves the purpose of getting max output. I know some around here use it but I found that when actually calibrating Dynamic it isn't any brighter than Natural. If you're ok with a greener, less accurate image then you can get more contrast. The one thing that I didn't test but is theoretically possible is that the Dynamic Iris is supposed to close down even more in Dynamic so you could theoretically calibrate Dynamic down so it is accurate and then you'd be left with the most dynamic contrast possible. I wouldn't do this unless you can actually calibrate with a meter.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Dynamic serves the purpose of getting max output. I know some around here use it but I found that when actually calibrating Dynamic it isn't any brighter than Natural. If you're ok with a greener, less accurate image then you can get more contrast. The one thing that I didn't test but is theoretically possible is that the Dynamic Iris is supposed to close down even more in Dynamic so you could theoretically calibrate Dynamic down so it is accurate and then you'd be left with the most dynamic contrast possible. I wouldn't do this unless you can actually calibrate with a meter.


I have no intentions of even trying to make Dynamic look right. I'd almost be willing to bet that it is not possible to do. Having seen inside the hidden service menus of a Sanyo projector, there were things in there that could not be overridden from the user menu. You could run user settings from one extreme to the other and hidden settings for something like Dynamic mode would still show their effect. Are these Epsons any different? Don't know, but I wouldn't be surprised if they had similar.


----------



## JMAX2016

How many times does the 5050 shift with the new firmware update?
I heard it shifts twice, but now it’s three times with the new update. Is that true?


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> I have no intentions of even trying to make Dynamic look right. I'd almost be willing to bet that it is not possible to do. Having seen inside the hidden service menus of a Sanyo projector, there were things in there that could not be overridden from the user menu. You could run user settings from one extreme to the other and hidden settings for something like Dynamic mode would still show their effect. Are these Epsons any different? Don't know, but I wouldn't be surprised if they had similar.


I have no reason to believe you can't make Dynamic look good. It would just make it like another picture mode with more work. The only special stuff I know about dynamic is that the manual iris adjustment is disabled on high and medium lamp in dynamic and also the auto iris is said to close down even further vs other modes.


----------



## PixelPusher15

JMAX2016 said:


> How many times does the 5050 shift with the new firmware update?
> I heard it shifts twice, but now it’s three times with the new update. Is that true?


At this point, this question is like asking if people believe in ghosts or not.

Some swear they see the difference, some swear they see no difference. There's debates over whether you need to have panel alignment off to see it and I'm sure even more nuance. 

I personally don't care much and I'm not sure how much a difference it can even make if it did shift thrice. That third position is said to be between spot one and two. It's still diagonal and it isn't addressable. It would just be an interpolation along a diagonal plane. Go ahead and look at the pixel structure here and tell me if you think adding a third position on the diagonal plane would make a large impact?


----------



## JMAX2016

Thanks Pixel.

I have a question on black floor on a JVC vs the 5050. But not just a blind one, because the JVC would win, but when matching up black crush / shadow detail. Meaning that if you expose the same amount of shadow detail, would the JVC still have a blacker floor?

Certain pictures I see seem to indicate that the shadow detail isn’t as good on a JVC. To improve that, you would increase brightness, which would in turn raise the black floor. And then would that just be equal to the Epson black floor?


----------



## PixelPusher15

JMAX2016 said:


> Thanks Pixel.
> 
> I have a question on black floor on a JVC vs the 5050. But not just a blind one, because the JVC would win, but when matching up black crush / shadow detail. Meaning that if you expose the same amount of shadow detail, would the JVC still have a blacker floor?
> 
> Certain pictures I see seem to indicate that the shadow detail isn’t as good on a JVC. To improve that, you would increase brightness, which would in turn raise the black floor. And then would that just be equal to the Epson black floor?


Properly calibrated the JVC should have more shadow detail due to its better contrast on dark scenes. The difference between 0% white and 0.5% white are greater on the JVC than on the Epson


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> I have no reason to believe you can't make Dynamic look good. It would just make it like another picture mode with more work. The only special stuff I know about dynamic is that the manual iris adjustment is disabled on high and medium lamp in dynamic and also the auto iris is said to close down even further vs other modes.


Maybe, but maybe not. I'd tend to doubt that the settings available in the Epson user menus are all that exist that affect performance. But who knows...


----------



## DigitalAV

PixelPusher15 said:


> At this point, this question is like asking if people believe in ghosts or not.
> 
> Some swear they see the difference, some swear they see no difference. There's debates over whether you need to have panel alignment off to see it and I'm sure even more nuance.
> 
> I personally don't care much and I'm not sure how much a difference it can even make if it did shift thrice. That third position is said to be between spot one and two. It's still diagonal and it isn't addressable. It would just be an interpolation along a diagonal plane. Go ahead and look at the pixel structure here and tell me if you think adding a third position on the diagonal plane would make a large impact?
> View attachment 3251022


This guy says it apparently works for 4k24 content (but not 4k60) -- I was giving the entire article a side-eye though while reading because of statements like this:



> Please note that some people reported that their US region projector shipped with firmware 1.04 from the factory and it didn’t seem to have the 3x pixel shift. I could not confirm if this was user fault or an issue with the unit. It COULD be possible that the firmware from the factory and the one on the website are different – even if they both report 1.04 as the version number.











Epson TW9400 / UB6050 / UB5050 Pixel Shifting Update


Epson introduced 3x pixel shift on the Epson TW9400 and UB5050 / UB6050 models with the 1.03 firmware. Find out what is happening and how Epson achieved it!




simplehomecinema.com


----------



## Jedi940

So I finally made the jump from my W1070 to a 5050UB refurb and I must say I am very underwhelmed. The picture doesn't look bad per se, but after doing a side by side comparison last night, I almost think my W1070 has a sharper image and is brighter in cinema mode. This conclusion was reached by comparing the menu text on both projectors as well as running them split screen side by side. The 5050 playing from the 4k disk and the W1070 from the bluray Alita. The W1070 just seems exactly the same if not slightly sharper. 

*Current setup is:*
120" 2.40:1 spandex screen
Panasonic UB420 
Marantz 6012 AVR
*Current projector settings: *
Color mode: digital cinema
HDR: 4
brightness/contrast/colors: unchanged.
Iris I believe is still at 0
lamp: meduim
*Panasonic settings:*
HDR mode: standard
4k60p: enabled
HDR10+ enabled
HDR TV type: projector

I am looking for advice on where to look/what settings to check to figure this out. I have spent time checking the panel alignment and it looks decent but the picture still looks very soft. So far the only movie i have watched was Alita and there wasn't much difference between the two projectors. 

I'll try to get some pictures posted this evening of what I'm seeing but this just doesn't seem right. Especially after seeing it at the projector shootout I attended last year.


----------



## DigitalAV

Jedi940 said:


> So I finally made the jump from my W1070 to a 5050UB refurb and I must say I am very underwhelmed. The picture doesn't look bad per se, but after doing a side by side comparison last night, I almost think my W1070 has a sharper image and is brighter in cinema mode. This conclusion was reached by comparing the menu text on both projectors as well as running them split screen side by side. The 5050 playing from the 4k disk and the W1070 from the bluray Alita. The W1070 just seems exactly the same if not slightly sharper.
> 
> *Current setup is:*
> 120" 2.40:1 spandex screen
> Panasonic UB420
> Marantz 6012 AVR
> *Current projector settings: *
> Color mode: digital cinema
> HDR: 4
> brightness/contrast/colors: unchanged.
> Iris I believe is still at 0
> lamp: meduim
> *Panasonic settings:*
> HDR mode: standard
> 4k60p: enabled
> HDR10+ enabled
> HDR TV type: projector
> 
> I am looking for advice on where to look/what settings to check to figure this out. I have spent time checking the panel alignment and it looks decent but the picture still looks very soft. So far the only movie i have watched was Alita and there wasn't much difference between the two projectors.
> 
> I'll try to get some pictures posted this evening of what I'm seeing but this just doesn't seem right. Especially after seeing it at the projector shootout I attended last year.


Give these a try:

For your sharpness issue, it's possibly because you're comparing the W1070's native 1080p with the 5050UB's eshift 4k which can look softer. Maybe try 1) turning Panel Alignment _off_ if it isn't already, 2) trying different Image Enhancement > Super-resolution and Detail Enhancement values -- (I'd probably try Preset 2 or 3 and adjust from there), and 3) make sure Noise Reduction and MPEG Noise Reduction are both off/set to 0.

For your brightness issue, using Digital Cinema color mode engages the color filter which cuts your light output by half -- this is only viable with small/high-gain screens. Try Bright Cinema or Natural instead.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Jedi940 said:


> So I finally made the jump from my W1070 to a 5050UB refurb and I must say I am very underwhelmed. The picture doesn't look bad per se, but after doing a side by side comparison last night, I almost think my W1070 has a sharper image and is brighter in cinema mode. This conclusion was reached by comparing the menu text on both projectors as well as running them split screen side by side. The 5050 playing from the 4k disk and the W1070 from the bluray Alita. The W1070 just seems exactly the same if not slightly sharper.
> 
> *Current setup is:*
> 120" 2.40:1 spandex screen
> Panasonic UB420
> Marantz 6012 AVR
> *Current projector settings: *
> Color mode: digital cinema
> HDR: 4
> brightness/contrast/colors: unchanged.
> Iris I believe is still at 0
> lamp: meduim
> *Panasonic settings:*
> HDR mode: standard
> 4k60p: enabled
> HDR10+ enabled
> HDR TV type: projector
> 
> I am looking for advice on where to look/what settings to check to figure this out. I have spent time checking the panel alignment and it looks decent but the picture still looks very soft. So far the only movie i have watched was Alita and there wasn't much difference between the two projectors.
> 
> I'll try to get some pictures posted this evening of what I'm seeing but this just doesn't seem right. Especially after seeing it at the projector shootout I attended last year.


I'll give similar suggestions. 

First, turn on HDR to SDR2020 on the Panasonic. It will do the tone mapping which is better than the 5050 out of the box.

I agree, use Natural, not Digital Cinema. Your spandex isn't going to be bright enough for Digital Cinema. I also agree try turning up Image Enhancements to 2 or 3. There's a big jump from 3 to 4 where 4 will look overly processed IMO. These are presets by the way and you can setup your own in the menus.

Set your gamma to -2.

Make sure your focus is dead on before doing any convergence adjustments. Get a sheet of paper and hold it over your spandex, then adjust the focus. make sure you check the middle, left, right, top, and bottom of the image. Sometimes the lens isn't perfectly uniform and you need to balance the focus between these spots. Using the paper will make it easier to see the subtle changes since the spandex will soften the image a bit. 

Once you think you've got it really focused, recheck convergence over the whole screen. I prefer the sharpness of aligned pixels vs the softness that I think comes with color fringing (convergence off). 

FYI, I went through multiple 5050s before I got a good one and most were lens issue related.


----------



## Jedi940

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'll give similar suggestions.
> 
> First, turn on HDR to SDR2020 on the Panasonic. It will do the tone mapping which is better than the 5050 out of the box.
> 
> I agree, use Natural, not Digital Cinema. Your spandex isn't going to be bright enough for Digital Cinema. I also agree try turning up Image Enhancements to 2 or 3. There's a big jump from 3 to 4 where 4 will look overly processed IMO. These are presets by the way and you can setup your own in the menus.
> 
> Set your gamma to -2.
> 
> Make sure your focus is dead on before doing any convergence adjustments. Get a sheet of paper and hold it over your spandex, then adjust the focus. make sure you check the middle, left, right, top, and bottom of the image. Sometimes the lens isn't perfectly uniform and you need to balance the focus between these spots. Using the paper will make it easier to see the subtle changes since the spandex will soften the image a bit.
> 
> Once you think you've got it really focused, recheck convergence over the whole screen. I prefer the sharpness of aligned pixels vs the softness that I think comes with color fringing (convergence off).
> 
> FYI, I went through multiple 5050s before I got a good one and most were lens issue related.


I knew you went through sever before getting a good one and I was hoping you'd chime in. I am trying to understand if I have a setup issue, a lens issue or my expectations are just too high. I will work on it again tonight and post my results. I'll post some images too that you can possibly compare with yours to let me know if this is the same issue you went through.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Jedi940 said:


> I knew you went through sever before getting a good one and I was hoping you'd chime in. I am trying to understand if I have a setup issue, a lens issue or my expectations are just too high. I will work on it again tonight and post my results. I'll post some images too that you can possibly compare with yours to let me know if this is the same issue you went through.


My lens issues were focus uniformity issues. On two of them, the bottom right section of the screen was pretty substantially out of focus when the rest of the image was in focus. Like, a single-pixel line was solidly taking up the space of at least 3-pixel widths. If that makes sense. You'll know if that's your issue. If you have good convergence and focus across the screen then it's most likely not a lens issue (using white printer paper is the best way to test this)


----------



## Kieran

fredworld said:


> Similarly with *Best Buy Wilmington, DE* although the site says "In Store Only."


Not sure if y'all mean Best Buy, or Magnolia within Best Buy. Granted Magnolia is owned by Best Buy, but they get different gear that can only be sold in store by Magnolia. So you won't find a 6050 (or 5050) usually, at a Best Buy that does not have a Magnolia inside (not all do).
That said, if you have a BBY near by that does have a Magnolia, they should be able to get a 6050 shipped to them, for you to then purchase "in store".


----------



## Kieran

RRF said:


> How you design your lighting is crucial for when you need to have some lighting.
> You cannot have any light with a direct path to the screen.
> Blackout window coverings are a must at all times...even a crack of daylight will flood the room.
> Ceiling pot lights and regular table lamps are a big no no.
> Wall sconces and directional spots which can be dimmed work well.
> I have no issues watching sports at medium power with a few wall sconces and the pool table spots on.


In my opinion, some of this is a bit extreme / over-stated for many (not all) use cases. If I want to enjoy an HDR show or movie/film then yes, all lights off (also for SDR where image quality is important). However, I paired my 5050 with a high quality ALR screen, and it is TOTALLY acceptable to have some lights on in the room for things like sports, where I don't care too much about "deep blacks". With ambient light in the room, what you lose is black level. Brights are still bright. Resolution doesn't change. Now if you don't have an ALR screen, it is a different calculus on what level of light becomes unacceptable. But I doubt that for shows that don't have or require "amazing" image quality, having a small light on in the room, won't be a deal breaker (not for me, anyway). To each their own.


----------



## WynsWrld98

DigitalAV said:


> Give these a try:
> 
> For your sharpness issue, it's possibly because you're comparing the W1070's native 1080p with the 5050UB's eshift 4k which can look softer. Maybe try 1) turning Panel Alignment _off_ if it isn't already, 2) trying different Image Enhancement > Super-resolution and Detail Enhancement values -- (I'd probably try Preset 2 or 3 and adjust from there), and 3) make sure Noise Reduction and MPEG Noise Reduction are both off/set to 0.
> 
> For your brightness issue, using Digital Cinema color mode engages the color filter which cuts your light output by half -- this is only viable with small/high-gain screens. Try Bright Cinema or Natural instead.


What's the purpose of the eShift 4K if it makes the image softer?


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## Kieran

WynsWrld98 said:


> What's the purpose of the eShift 4K if it makes the image softer?


I'm not sure exactly what @DigitalAV was getting at, but I'll give this a shot anyway.
"Sharpness" of an image as judged by a person viewing it, is subjective. We can take a 1080p image and add noise to it, and you might, from a certain distance perceive that the image became sharper, even though we didn't improve the resolution of the image, we just added (high frequency) noise. This is essentially what your "sharpness" setting on most TV's does. Most videophiles will turn this setting all the way down, or at most, very low. So, the "softer" (less noisy) image actually shows more detail (though you may need to get closer to see it).

So, e-shift, in displaying more actual pixels of a 4k image, may appear "softer" in some people's way of describing it, than a 1080p display which is down-sampling the 4k image. Why? Because down-sampling a signal can (almost always will) add noise too.

I highly recommend reading this incredibly well-written piece  that goes into a lot of the details of these phenomena:








Up-sampling, Aliasing, Filtering, and Ringing: A Clarification of Terminology - HomeTheaterHifi.com


With the advent of 4K video display technology, there have been many questions and discussions about the pros and cons of up-sampling, processing




hometheaterhifi.com





Cheers!


----------



## NxNW

It's just sort of a perceptual fact that four large squares with well defined edges look "sharper" than sixteen smaller squares with slightly blurry edges. You might like the crisp look of precisely defined stair-steps, but it's still aliasing. If you want to resolve more _detail_ that was present in the original thing being encoded, you go with the smaller, "blurrier" squares.


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## Jedi940

PixelPusher15 said:


> My lens issues were focus uniformity issues. On two of them, the bottom right section of the screen was pretty substantially out of focus when the rest of the image was in focus. Like, a single-pixel line was solidly taking up the space of at least 3-pixel widths. If that makes sense. You'll know if that's your issue. If you have good convergence and focus across the screen then it's most likely not a lens issue (using white printer paper is the best way to test this)


The tip on using a piece of paper for the calibration really helped. Guess I never realized how much spandex softened the image. I see what you were talking about with the lens issues. Here are the shots from mine. Center looks the best and then the bottom left which is the worst. I guess for comparison, where does mine fall in the range of what you have seen? Is it worth complaining about given your luck getting a good one?


----------



## Kieran

NxNW said:


> It's just sort of a perceptual fact that four large squares with well defined edges look "sharper" than sixteen smaller squares with slightly blurry edges. You might like the crisp look of precisely defined stair-steps, but it's still aliasing.


 minor quibble: that's not aliasing in the technical sense, unless I'm missunderstanding you.


----------



## Jedi940

Upon further investigation, i discovered that the keystone was set to -2. Setting that back to 0 did slightly improve my focus as the edges - enough that it's probably not worth contacting support about. I changed the color mode to natural, and the Panny to SDR. Bumping the image enhancement to 3 definitely helped clean things up a bit. If I keep this projector, I may look in to getting a different screen. There is definitely a clarity hit that i never noticed with my old projector. Examining some scenes more closely, I am able to see a difference in clarity between the 2 however, it's not nearly as pronounced as I had hoped.

As for the brightness, I ended up keeping the gamma at 0 and set the lamp to high which put it close to but still not as bright as my W1070. My biggest complaint are bright, sunny scenes. They still look better on the W1070. Now the Epson does lean more red and BenQ is more green so perhaps a calibration would benefit them both. At these settings in an attempt to get daylight scenes to look they way I expect, the black levels are rather close when watching end credits. The BenQ is obviously worse but the white text is noticeably brighter as well. I will continue to play with the settings and see what I can discover. Perhaps with a change in gamma on the BenQ and some color adjustment, I can get them pretty close. 

I do which I would have taken it to the projector shootout we had last year in Michigan. I figured it would be pointless but I am finding these 2 projectors much closer than I anticipated.


----------



## NxNW

Kieran said:


> minor quibble: that's not aliasing in the technical sense, unless I'm missunderstanding you.


Sorry. Your article covers aliasing very well. I won't try to improve on it. I am just reminding that it is cheap and easy to take a small number of samples and make the edges look sharp, but no one would say low sampling rate is high resolution.

If you look close at my attached photo, sure the left one has "sharper" pixels. But if you just back up a bit and squint your eyes you realize the right side has higher "resolution" and that is what matters.

This is basically what you were saying, only you made it sound as if all sharpness was an artifact of processing; I'm just proposing that it is a natural perceptual "advantage", however illusory, that usually comes with coarse resolution.


----------



## DavidK442

Jedi940 said:


> I do which I would have taken it to the projector shootout we had last year in Michigan. I figured it would be pointless but I am finding these 2 projectors much closer than I anticipated.


I wish you would have taken your W1070 to the shoot out as well, but then there would have been two “Jedi”‘S and that would just be confusing. I think the general comment that all projectors looked surprisingly similar in mixed light scenes would have even applied to the lowly 1080p SDR DLP at reasonable distance. I am surprised though to read your opinion that contrast is similar when compared directly with the Epson UB.


----------



## Alaric

WynsWrld98 said:


> What's the purpose of the eShift 4K if it makes the image softer?


It's a terminology thing. Would smoother work better here ???

The more resolution on screen, the smaller the pixels are and the more an image blends to become one single image rather than a collection of visible pixels, particularly when distance is involved with viewing. Which is why the larger the screen, or the closer you sit, the more resolution becomes important.

Decades ago, when i got my first Barco CRT projector i tried a VHS tape on it and with a 12' screen i had scan lines as wide as my arm. They were very sharp (focus), but the image was pretty terrible because of low resolution. Using a PC as a scaler with DVD gave a very smooth image that was much better.


----------



## jimed1

I have a flashing light issue that I think is odd on my 6050. I just bought it used with 245 hours from a member here that offered to handle any warranty work for me if needed before the warranty expires this year in August, so I do have the option of getting it fixed. I don't want to do this because I may get a unit back with many more hours and I am happy with this one and it has been calibrated for HDR, SDR, and also a brighter mode for HDTV. I'll obviously lose those calibrations with a replacement unit. 
The first few days I had it there were no issues but I was using it during the day as well as at night so it was not sitting at reset for more than 8 to 10 hours. I am now getting the blue and orange flashing light but only after the unit sits for around 24 hours without being turned on. I can unplug it and immediately plug it back in and it clears the flashing lights. 
I think it is odd that I can use it at night, turn it off, walk in the room the next day and check to see if the lights are flashing and they are not. Then, walk in the room a few hours later and the lights will be flashing and I have to do an unplug to reset it before using it. What could be happening that makes it start flashing just sitting there? 
I wouldn't think it that while off it would know there is an iris issue, bulb issue, or other internal error. Really odd. 
I am on 1.03 firmware. 
Thanks for any input.


----------



## Jedi940

DavidK442 said:


> I wish you would have taken your W1070 to the shoot out as well, but then there would have been two “Jedi”‘S and that would just be confusing. I think the general comment that all projectors looked surprisingly similar in mixed light scenes would have even applied to the lowly 1080p SDR DLP at reasonable distance. I am surprised though to read your opinion that contrast is similar when compared directly with the Epson UB.


I'm still tweaking. I not quite ready to give up on the epson yet. I still may be able to get better colors out of it. Looking at the difference between a 1080 and 4k TV, the resolution difference is obvious to me. While I wasn't expecting that exact same difference with a fauxK projector, I still expected it to be noticeable. I'll have to do some research on screens and may upgrade that at some point. I have also considered having ChadB calibrate it as he is not that far from me which may help give it that pop that I was expecting. 

I should also note that I am not as much of a videophile as I am and audiophile. I definitely think a mediocre display with stunning audio does more for the theater experience than a fantastic display with mediocre audio.


----------



## WynsWrld98

jimed1 said:


> I have a flashing light issue that I think is odd on my 6050. I just bought it used with 245 hours from a member here that offered to handle any warranty work for me if needed before the warranty expires this year in August, so I do have the option of getting it fixed. I don't want to do this because I may get a unit back with many more hours and I am happy with this one and it has been calibrated for HDR, SDR, and also a brighter mode for HDTV. I'll obviously lose those calibrations with a replacement unit.
> The first few days I had it there were no issues but I was using it during the day as well as at night so it was not sitting at reset for more than 8 to 10 hours. I am now getting the blue and orange flashing light but only after the unit sits for around 24 hours without being turned on. I can unplug it and immediately plug it back in and it clears the flashing lights.
> I think it is odd that I can use it at night, turn it off, walk in the room the next day and check to see if the lights are flashing and they are not. Then, walk in the room a few hours later and the lights will be flashing and I have to do an unplug to reset it before using it. What could be happening that makes it start flashing just sitting there?
> I wouldn't think it that while off it would know there is an iris issue, bulb issue, or other internal error. Really odd.
> I am on 1.03 firmware.
> Thanks for any input.


Ask Epson to repair this unit vs playing refurb roulette.


----------



## Kieran

NxNW said:


> View attachment 3251631
> 
> 
> Sorry. Your article covers aliasing very well. I won't try to improve on it. I am just reminding that it is cheap and easy to take a small number of samples and make the edges look sharp, but no one would say low sampling rate is high resolution.
> 
> If you look close at my attached photo, sure the left one has "sharper" pixels. But if you just back up a bit and squint your eyes you realize the right side has higher "resolution" and that is what matters.
> 
> This is basically what you were saying, only you made it sound as if all sharpness was an artifact of processing; I'm just proposing that it is a natural perceptual "advantage", however illusory, that usually comes with coarse resolution.


I understand what you're saying, but I guess I don't see the images/effects the same way. To my eye, the lower sampled image (left hand image) you posted of the "A, has a softer edge. The low sampling rate has introduced aliasing, but it's not obvious. Take the top of the letter 'A' - in the low sampled image, it's hard to know if the real letter should have a sharp or rounded point at the top. The left image gives it a rounded point, more rounded than in the right-hand image. That rounded top is a low frequency signal, that shouldn't be there. That's aliasing. Same with the "feet" of the 'A'. In the high sampled image, the feet come to almost a sharp point. In the low sampled image, it looks like the feet might have rectangular ends, maybe even rounded. Again, that's a low frequency signal (rounded) where there should be a high frequency signal (sharp point). Along the straight edges of the 'A' there exists some chroma signal noise too, which confounds the issue here. It shows up as more blue on the right edges and more reddish on the left edges. To some eyes (and at some distances, and sharpness settings) this noise can be interpreted as more "sharpness" - but I don't see it that way.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Jedi940 said:


> I'm still tweaking. I not quite ready to give up on the epson yet. I still may be able to get better colors out of it. Looking at the difference between a 1080 and 4k TV, the resolution difference is obvious to me. While I wasn't expecting that exact same difference with a fauxK projector, I still expected it to be noticeable. I'll have to do some research on screens and may upgrade that at some point. I have also considered having ChadB calibrate it as he is not that far from me which may help give it that pop that I was expecting.
> 
> I should also note that I am not as much of a videophile as I am and audiophile. I definitely think a mediocre display with stunning audio does more for the theater experience than a fantastic display with mediocre audio.


If you can't get the projector looking like a satisfactory upgrade by yourself then I wouldn't go and pay for calibration. Some people do prefer the image from a DLP more than 3LCD. A good single-chip 1080p DLP can for sure appear sharper than 3LCD faux-K. Usually though, the contrast advantage the 5050 has makes the image appear sharper since there's more delineation between light and dark areas. So sharpness is just one metric.

How old is the bulb in your BenQ and what picture mode are you using on it? With the 5050 in High Lamp/Natural and the BenQ in Dynamic they should actually be about the same brightness. Maybe just a bit brighter for the Epson. You saying the BenQ is pushing green makes me believe that you have it in a setting that is pushing out more brightness. Lamps are naturally more green so if you don't tone that down then the image will be brighter. When both are hitting 6500k then the Epson should be brighter.

How's contrast for you? Did you notice a big jump? That's the big reason to get the 5050. If you don't feel that the contrast jump was a big improvement then it's worth considering whether it is the right fit for you.


----------



## NxNW

Kieran said:


> I understand what you're saying, but I guess I don't see the images/effects the same way.


We're probably in general agreement here so I won't pursue this abstract topic too much in this thread since I'm sure I'm irritating actual owners of this projector.


Alaric said:


> It's a terminology thing. Would smoother work better here ???


This is way better than my response to the original question about why 4K doesn't look sharper. 4K is both more detailed _and_ smoother.


PixelPusher15 said:


> Some people do prefer the image from a DLP more than 3LCD. A good single-chip 1080p DLP can for sure appear sharper than 3LCD faux-K.


I think this is the phenomenon that really inspired me to open my mouth in the first place: pixel _boundaries_ may well appear "sharper" with certain HD projectors.


----------



## NxNW

OK now I actually do have some remarks relevant to owners. And prospective owners. I picked up my 6050 today and everything has proceeded smoothly so far.

I had no trouble picking it up from the local Best Buy where I ordered it in-person a week ago, (The shipping label return address said Louisville, so either there's a Best Buy in Louisville that has extra stock or Louisville is some sort of shipping hub.)

I had no trouble unboxing it. The packaging was pristine, it didn't look like it had been dropped or previously opened or anything.

I had no trouble placing it (temporary location, on a table), plugging in sources, or powering it up. Somehow it was already in focus. I zoomed and lens-shifted and focused a little anyway just to get it all dialed in and familiarize with the controls.

And that's it- I think those were the only "changes" I made! To anything. I am still using all defaults.

I'm just flipping through a variety of content and at least so far everything looks great. HD SDR looks slightly brighter and at least as sharp as my old BenQ 2050.

It's not very loud. Controls are easy to understand, remote is easy to use.

Basically everything worked perfectly out of the box using all defaults; how many products can you say that about?


----------



## Jedi940

NxNW said:


> OK now I actually do have some remarks relevant to owners. And prospective owners. I picked up my 6050 today and everything has proceeded smoothly so far.
> 
> I had no trouble picking it up from the local Best Buy where I ordered it in-person a week ago, (The shipping label return address said Louisville, so either there's a Best Buy in Louisville that has extra stock or Louisville is some sort of shipping hub.)
> 
> I had no trouble unboxing it. The packaging was pristine, it didn't look like it had been dropped or previously opened or anything.
> 
> I had no trouble placing it (temporary location, on a table), plugging in sources, or powering it up. Somehow it was already in focus. I zoomed and lens-shifted and focused a little anyway just to get it all dialed in and familiarize with the controls.
> 
> And that's it- I think those were the only "changes" I made! To anything. I am still using all defaults.
> 
> I'm just flipping through a variety of content and at least so far everything looks great. HD SDR looks slightly brighter and at least as sharp as my old BenQ 2050.
> 
> It's not very loud. Controls are easy to understand, remote is easy to use.
> 
> Basically everything worked perfectly out of the box using all defaults; how many products can you say that about?
> 
> View attachment 3252010
> 
> View attachment 3252011
> 
> View attachment 3252009


Dang! Looking at your screenshots really puts mine to shame. That's a nice lens!


----------



## Jedi940

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you can't get the projector looking like a satisfactory upgrade by yourself then I wouldn't go and pay for calibration. Some people do prefer the image from a DLP more than 3LCD. A good single-chip 1080p DLP can for sure appear sharper than 3LCD faux-K. Usually though, the contrast advantage the 5050 has makes the image appear sharper since there's more delineation between light and dark areas. So sharpness is just one metric.
> 
> How old is the bulb in your BenQ and what picture mode are you using on it? With the 5050 in High Lamp/Natural and the BenQ in Dynamic they should actually be about the same brightness. Maybe just a bit brighter for the Epson. You saying the BenQ is pushing green makes me believe that you have it in a setting that is pushing out more brightness. Lamps are naturally more green so if you don't tone that down then the image will be brighter. When both are hitting 6500k then the Epson should be brighter.
> 
> How's contrast for you? Did you notice a big jump? That's the big reason to get the 5050. If you don't feel that the contrast jump was a big improvement then it's worth considering whether it is the right fit for you.


I won't be calibrating it until I'm sure this is the one I'm going to keep. After looking at @NxNW 's screenshots I'm re-thinking returning mine. I realize he got a 6050 however that one is lightyears better than mine on focus. Does yours come close to that level? 

My current W1070 has 1790 hours on it and I am running it in cinema mode. Colors are definitely better on the 5050 and maybe I'm just not used to the lower black floor after living with a W1070 for the past 7 years. Shadow detail was always readily visible with the high black floor. Now the darker areas are much blacker and I am struggling to make out detail in some of them. Perhaps that it just the way it should be in the first place. 
My current 4k collection is quite limited at the moment so I don't have many titles to choose from. I have been mostly comparing scenes from Alita. Either the first time she steps out in to the street at the beginning with the sun shining or the first battle in the ally with Grewishka. I did watch Black Widow on Bluray last night and it had a sharp picture and I I didn't seem to notice it being too dark.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Jedi940 said:


> I won't be calibrating it until I'm sure this is the one I'm going to keep. After looking at @NxNW 's screenshots I'm re-thinking returning mine. I realize he got a 6050 however that one is lightyears better than mine on focus. Does yours come close to that level?
> 
> My current W1070 has 1790 hours on it and I am running it in cinema mode. Colors are definitely better on the 5050 and maybe I'm just not used to the lower black floor after living with a W1070 for the past 7 years. Shadow detail was always readily visible with the high black floor. Now the darker areas are much blacker and I am struggling to make out detail in some of them. Perhaps that it just the way it should be in the first place.
> My current 4k collection is quite limited at the moment so I don't have many titles to choose from. I have been mostly comparing scenes from Alita. Either the first time she steps out in to the street at the beginning with the sun shining or the first battle in the ally with Grewishka. I did watch Black Widow on Bluray last night and it had a sharp picture and I I didn't seem to notice it being too dark.


My 5050 does look close to the one above…when table mounted. But when I have it shelf mounted near the ceiling at near min throw I get some blurring in the bottom corners. This is due to me just pushing the lens to its limits. NxNW said they had it table mounted so it will be interesting to see if it stays that sharp when moved to its final position. Also, the 6050 is supposed to have a hand picked lens so it* should* be sharper at its limits vs the 5050.

If you’re struggling with shadow detail that can be fixed with gamma adjustments. One thing to note, HDR is tricky. The 5050 has good static tone mapping but dark scenes can still get very washed out at times. If you’re comparing HDR on the 5050 vs SDR on the W1070 then that’s not an apples to apples comparison. Try looking at more SDR content and see if you think that’s a big upgrade.


----------



## fredworld

Jedi940 said:


> I won't be calibrating it until I'm sure this is the one I'm going to keep. After looking at @NxNW 's screenshots I'm re-thinking returning mine. I realize he got a 6050 however that one is lightyears better than mine on focus. Does yours come close to that level?
> 
> My current W1070 has 1790 hours on it and I am running it in cinema mode. Colors are definitely better on the 5050 and maybe I'm just not used to the lower black floor after living with a W1070 for the past 7 years. Shadow detail was always readily visible with the high black floor. Now the darker areas are much blacker and I am struggling to make out detail in some of them. Perhaps that it just the way it should be in the first place.
> My current 4k collection is quite limited at the moment so I don't have many titles to choose from. I have been mostly comparing scenes from Alita. Either the first time she steps out in to the street at the beginning with the sun shining or the first battle in the ally with Grewishka. I did watch Black Widow on Bluray last night and it had a sharp picture and I I didn't seem to notice it being too dark.


I think we all recognize that there are many variables involved among room set up, light control, manufacturing variances, lamp performance, throw distance, personal taste, etc., but purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc for $40 was one of the best investments I made for my display. Many of the patterns are for "evaluation only" and could serve you well in your A/B comparisons with your two projectors. A few patterns are specifically for adjusting user controls. It's those few that I return to for tweaking, mainly, Brightness, Contrast and the disc's Demo Material for Color/Tint, and for further fine tuning, judicious use of the HDR slider of the 5050 or in my Panasonic player. Some experimentation of the projector's GAMMA setting is necessary. It's an iterative process and requires patience. I settled on -2 in Digital Cinema mode then finalized my "calibration." Depending on source material I find that I might need only to move BRIGHTNESS or (if UHD) the HDR slider a notch or two, +or-, to achieve quite pleasing results.The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm quite happy with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs.
The *Getting Started Guide* on the S&M website is worth taking the time to read through and once one gets the basic understanding for the actual adjusting it only takes about 10-15 minutes to "calibrate." _It doesn't replace a professional calibration_ but the highly satisfactory results I've gotten have discouraged me from pursuing one. My set-up is relatively conservative in screen size (94" wide 2.35 screen). Perhaps if my screen was as large as some on this forum I might feel otherwise about a pro-cal. I hope this helps.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> My 5050 does look close to the one above…when table mounted. But when I have it shelf mounted near the ceiling at near min throw I get some blurring in the bottom corners. This is due to me just pushing the lens to its limits. NxNW said they had it table mounted so it will be interesting to see if it stays that sharp when moved to its final position. Also, the 6050 is supposed to have a hand picked lens so it* should* be sharper at its limits vs the 5050.


Using extreme lens shift may cause some distortion making the part of the screen farthest from the lens off in some way. I haven't seen that with my 5050, but did in a previous make/model. For example, when high shelf mounted, the bottom of the screen was off tho the top was good. Fixed by putting a shim under the rear foot of the projector and shimming out the bottom of the screen a bit. Neither was noticeable except it fixed the image being off. The shimming made the alignment of the projector to the screen more head-on than when both were actually level and plumb.


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> I think we all recognize that there are many variables involved among room set up, light control, manufacturing variances, lamp performance, throw distance, personal taste, etc., but purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc for $40 was one of the best investments I made for my display. Many of the patterns are for "evaluation only" and could serve you well in your A/B comparisons with your two projectors. A few patterns are specifically for adjusting user controls. It's those few that I return to for tweaking, mainly, Brightness, Contrast and the disc's Demo Material for Color/Tint, and for further fine tuning, judicious use of the HDR slider of the 5050 or in my Panasonic player. Some experimentation of the projector's GAMMA setting is necessary. It's an iterative process and requires patience. I settled on -2 in Digital Cinema mode then finalized my "calibration." Depending on source material I find that I might need only to move BRIGHTNESS or (if UHD) the HDR slider a notch or two, +or-, to achieve quite pleasing results.The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm quite happy with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs.
> The *Getting Started Guide* on the S&M website is worth taking the time to read through and once one gets the basic understanding for the actual adjusting it only takes about 10-15 minutes to "calibrate." _It doesn't replace a professional calibration_ but the highly satisfactory results I've gotten have discouraged me from pursuing one. My set-up is relatively conservative in screen size (94" wide 2.35 screen). Perhaps if my screen was as large as some on this forum I might feel otherwise about a pro-cal. I hope this helps.


Absolutely worthwhile. And for evaluating black performance, the window patterns are good. The 0% window shows true black. With that you can see just how far short of black we are. I've done the same as fredworld says here and am pleased just like he is,


----------



## Jedi940

PixelPusher15 said:


> My 5050 does look close to the one above…when table mounted. But when I have it shelf mounted near the ceiling at near min throw I get some blurring in the bottom corners. This is due to me just pushing the lens to its limits. NxNW said they had it table mounted so it will be interesting to see if it stays that sharp when moved to its final position. Also, the 6050 is supposed to have a hand picked lens so it* should* be sharper at its limits vs the 5050.
> 
> If you’re struggling with shadow detail that can be fixed with gamma adjustments. One thing to note, HDR is tricky. The 5050 has good static tone mapping but dark scenes can still get very washed out at times. If you’re comparing HDR on the 5050 vs SDR on the W1070 then that’s not an apples to apples comparison. Try looking at more SDR content and see if you think that’s a big upgrade.


I'm running my projector at 17 feet from the screen so I'm not at the extreme limits. The middle of the lens is even with the top of the screen. I'm not looking for it to be as sharp as a hand picked lens but I guess I was hoping it would be closer to that then it is. I'll re-evaluate it again this evening. 

I'll look at some more SDR content tonight as well. I was comparing HDR to SDR as it made it simple since I had the 4k and blu ray disc I could run both projectors simultaneously. Switching a blu ray back and forth between 2 players won't be quite as seamless.


----------



## NxNW

Still running factory defaults, enjoying the projector so far. A few new observations based on watching a movie.

I’ll just keep reminding, I am coming from a BenQ 2050, so if I say something here it’s not because I’m trying to be an unbiased reviewer (there’s plenty of sources for that), I’m just blurting out what strikes me coming from a) $800 price point vs $4000 and b) DLP vs 3LCD .

First, one observation during setup, I did observe that brightness uniformity is good but not perfect. For my unit, the lower right corner is a little brighter. This was pretty much out of the box, after only minimal focus / zoom / lens shift adjustments had been made (very small fractions of the adjustable ranges). If you press blank on the remote, it is visible. I tried other bigger lens adjustments later but it never really went away. Not too noticeable during a movie but if you look for it, one corner of a dark scene is elevated a bit.

After setup, I made three other observations while watching a movie. The movie was 2001. HD Blu-Ray. SDR.

One more time, this is all in the default “Bright Cinema” mode..

1) Auto-iris pumping. It’s not bad, but coming from a projector that didn’t even _have_ an iris, _any_ pumping will be noticeable. And as someone pointed out in this thread only a few pages ago, closing credits are sometimes a great torture test for auto iris. Occasionally during the credits it was _very_ noticeable, quite jarring. Fortunately during the movie it did not intrude much. (Again, all defaults: Auto-iris is set to ‘fast’ for Bright Cinema.) Black levels were perfectly black if there was nothing else in the scene. But when anything else appeared in a previously dark scene and the iris opened up, the native black floor, while admirable (presumably better than DLP, although I haven’t measured it yet), was obviously less miraculous.

2) Noticeable Frame Interpolation behavior: In many scenes it seemed to start out trying to smooth out motion when there wasn’t _much_ motion, and then as more things in the frame started moving around or things started moving faster, suddenly it gave up and regular 24p judder took over. Default FI setting is “Low" for Bright Cinema. FI behaviors are is visible in the scene where Heywood Floyd is arriving at the space station, and later in the lounge scene with the Russian scientists.

3) Possible need to touch up color and gamma settings: in the same hotel lounge scene, I noticed the very bright background lost a little detail and the color of the red chairs looked.. unfamiliar. Pretty much everywhere else things were fine, skin tones looked right and neutral tones (whites, blacks, and every shade of gray in between) looked right, but every once in a while I thought, ‘this isn’t perfect’ and ‘probably would benefit from an instrumented calibration’. Obviously I’ll have a better idea of this after I do a real calibration.

Of course many reviewers say to just switch to “Natural” picture mode and a lot of these issues go away. But I’m just reporting, for the fun of it, what I saw using all defaults out of the box. Which means Bright Cinema.

So one more time, bottom line, everything works, totally watchable out of the box with zero adjustments.

Now the fun begins. Can't wait to tweak it a little.


----------



## hms17B

NxNW said:


> Still running factory defaults, enjoying the projector so far. A few new observations based on watching a movie.
> 
> I’ll just keep reminding, I am coming from a BenQ 2050, so if I say something here it’s not because I’m trying to be an unbiased reviewer (there’s plenty of sources for that), I’m just blurting out what strikes me coming from a) $800 price point vs $4000 and b) DLP vs 3LCD .
> 
> First, one observation during setup, I did observe that brightness uniformity is good but not perfect. For my unit, the lower right corner is a little brighter. This was pretty much out of the box, after only minimal focus / zoom / lens shift adjustments had been made (very small fractions of the adjustable ranges). If you press blank on the remote, it is visible. I tried other bigger lens adjustments later but it never really went away. Not too noticeable during a movie but if you look for it, one corner of a dark scene is elevated a bit.
> 
> After setup, I made three other observations while watching a movie. The movie was 2001. HD Blu-Ray. SDR.
> 
> One more time, this is all in the default “Bright Cinema” mode..
> 
> 1) Auto-iris pumping. It’s not bad, but coming from a projector that didn’t even _have_ an iris, _any_ pumping will be noticeable. And as someone pointed out in this thread only a few pages ago, closing credits are sometimes a great torture test for auto iris. Occasionally during the credits it was _very_ noticeable, quite jarring. Fortunately during the movie it did not intrude much. (Again, all defaults: Auto-iris is set to ‘fast’ for Bright Cinema.) Black levels were perfectly black if there was nothing else in the scene. But when anything else appeared in a previously dark scene and the iris opened up, the native black floor, while admirable (presumably better than DLP, although I haven’t measured it yet), was obviously less miraculous.
> 
> 2) Noticeable Frame Interpolation behavior: In many scenes it seemed to start out trying to smooth out motion when there wasn’t _much_ motion, and then as more things in the frame started moving around or things started moving faster, suddenly it gave up and regular 24p judder took over. Default FI setting is “Low" for Bright Cinema. FI behaviors are is visible in the scene where Heywood Floyd is arriving at the space station, and later in the lounge scene with the Russian scientists.
> 
> 3) Possible need to touch up color and gamma settings: in the same hotel lounge scene, I noticed the very bright background lost a little detail and the color of the red chairs looked.. unfamiliar. Pretty much everywhere else things were fine, skin tones looked right and neutral tones (whites, blacks, and every shade of gray in between) looked right, but every once in a while I thought, ‘this isn’t perfect’ and ‘probably would benefit from an instrumented calibration’. Obviously I’ll have a better idea of this after I do a real calibration.
> 
> Of course many reviewers say to just switch to “Natural” picture mode and a lot of these issues go away. But I’m just reporting, for the fun of it, what I saw using all defaults out of the box. Which means Bright Cinema.
> 
> So one more time, bottom line, everything works, totally watchable out of the box with zero adjustments.
> 
> Now the fun begins. Can't wait to tweak it a little.


You said "Black levels were perfectly black if there was nothing else in the scene". When I look at such an image, I definitely see that the screen is not completely dark. When it first displays, it does look amazingly black, but when it lingers for a bit and my eyes' irises open up, I see a very noticeable amount of light - even at maximum iris settings. I must have more sensitive eyes that others, because I never see the blacks that many say they do.


----------



## grayson

Can someone help which settings I should be looking at to improve blacks for HDR please? 
I've searched through the thread but can't seem to find anything I've not already tried. I just seem to be getting dark Grey even lightish. 
My room is black with velvet ceiling and walls. 
Room size 13 x 13 ft. 
Screen 97inch diagonal 2.39.1
Epson 6050ub
Lamp 200 hours. 
I have recently painted my screen with grey steel 3. 
I'm mainly using a Nvidia shield tv 2019
Ive tried all the settings from other users and used DVE calibration disc. 
I just want to sit down and watch a film without feeling the need to tweak all the time. 

Okay my main questions this is all for hdr
At the minute I'm using Dynamic and digital cinema in Medium lamp mode. 
Which picture mode is best for a starting point? 
A few tips have been mentioned but I'm new to all this so don't really understand what to set from the following. Custom gamma, gain and offset? 

Thanks all


----------



## biglen

grayson said:


> Can someone help which settings I should be looking at to improve blacks for HDR please?
> I've searched through the thread but can't seem to find anything I've not already tried. I just seem to be getting dark Grey even lightish.
> My room is black with velvet ceiling and walls.
> Room size 13 x 13 ft.
> Screen 97inch diagonal 2.39.1
> Epson 6050ub
> Lamp 200 hours.
> I have recently painted my screen with grey steel 3.
> I'm mainly using a Nvidia shield tv 2019
> Ive tried all the settings from other users and used DVE calibration disc.
> I just want to sit down and watch a film without feeling the need to tweak all the time.
> 
> Okay my main questions this is all for hdr
> At the minute I'm using Dynamic and digital cinema in Medium lamp mode.
> Which picture mode is best for a starting point?
> A few tips have been mentioned but I'm new to all this so don't really understand what to set from the following. Custom gamma, gain and offset?
> 
> Thanks all


No 2 setups are alike. Settings that work for one person, won’t work for another. I suggest getting a professional calibration, or at the very least, get the Spears and Munsil HDR disc. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

grayson said:


> Can someone help which settings I should be looking at to improve blacks for HDR please?
> I've searched through the thread but can't seem to find anything I've not already tried. I just seem to be getting dark Grey even lightish.
> My room is black with velvet ceiling and walls.
> Room size 13 x 13 ft.
> Screen 97inch diagonal 2.39.1
> Epson 6050ub
> Lamp 200 hours.
> I have recently painted my screen with grey steel 3.
> I'm mainly using a Nvidia shield tv 2019
> Ive tried all the settings from other users and used DVE calibration disc.
> I just want to sit down and watch a film without feeling the need to tweak all the time.
> 
> Okay my main questions this is all for hdr
> At the minute I'm using Dynamic and digital cinema in Medium lamp mode.
> Which picture mode is best for a starting point?
> A few tips have been mentioned but I'm new to all this so don't really understand what to set from the following. Custom gamma, gain and offset?
> 
> Thanks all





biglen said:


> No 2 setups are alike. Settings that work for one person, won’t work for another. I suggest getting a professional calibration, or at the very least, get the Spears and Munsil HDR disc.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I second @biglen . For more info, please, see *my post* from not too long ago.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> You said "Black levels were perfectly black if there was nothing else in the scene". When I look at such an image, I definitely see that the screen is not completely dark. When it first displays, it does look amazingly black, but when it lingers for a bit and my eyes' irises open up, I see a very noticeable amount of light - even at maximum iris settings. I must have more sensitive eyes that others, because I never see the blacks that many say they do.


I see the same as you. My x790 can trick be for longer on full black but even then I can still see the screen.


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## grayson

I'm not asking for anyone's settings a I will be calibrating myself.
Just asking for advice for which setting to adjust to improve blacks.


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## NxNW

Maybe "perfectly" was not a very precise word choice. I mean obviously it's not OLED black. Now _that's_ perfect. But anyway, very dark. Again, I'm coming from a DLP with no Iris whatsoever, so this was new territory for me.


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## PixelPusher15

grayson said:


> I'm not asking for anyone's settings a I will be calibrating myself.
> Just asking for advice for which setting to adjust to improve blacks.


You've got a fairly small screen so I'd suggest using the manual iris to tone down the brightness and increase contrast. On that size screen anything outside of Eco with Cinema/Digital Cinema is going to be pretty dang bright.

For right now, I wouldn't worry about custom gamma as you get started. Play around with 0, -1, and -2, and then combine that with adjustments to the manual iris (which is in the advanced image settings) to see what you like. Leave contrast and brightness to their defaults or set them with the AVS 709 patterns on youtube
AVS HD 709 Brightness Calibration - YouTubehttps://www.youtube.com › watch
AVS HD 709 Contrast Calibration - YouTubehttps://www.youtube.com › watch

Gain and offset are for setting correct color balance. You can play around with these if you feel like the color balance isn't correct. Gain adjusts the brighter parts of the image, offset adjusts the darker parts. 

Try using Natural picture mode. It's the most color-accurate out of the box. There's a chance that you may find dropping the Color Temp setting from 6500 to 6000 to be more accurate if you like a warmer picture tone. A lot of reviewers found that 6000k is actually close to 6500k when measured (I found the same). 

Digital Cinema is good for HDR if you still can achieve a satisfactory level of brightness but don't use it for SDR since there isn't a point. DC engages the 5050's color filter which boosts color at the expense of brightness. For SDR, I'd recommend using the manual iris to bring down the brightness since it boosts contrast.

Run the 5050 in High Lamp for at least 50 hours so the lamp creates a good arc at the beginning of its life but then after that I'd try Eco and a manual iris setting of around -15 for your small screen. This will get you close to reference SDR levels. You may or may not like it so go ahead and play with that iris setting as you see fit. 

(To the other posters, let's not start another flicker debate. Yes, Eco can flicker but many use it without issue. The fix is always run it in high lamp whether you have flicker or want to prevent flicker. I don't see the point of not trying Eco when it can always be resolved with High)


----------



## fredworld

grayson said:


> I'm not asking for anyone's settings a I will be calibrating myself.
> Just asking for advice for which setting to adjust to improve blacks.


If I'm understanding your screen dimensions (97" diagonal; 2.39) and room (13x13 light controlled and black treatments) set up correctly, then your screen and room are smaller than mine (102.15" diagonal; 2.35) and (18x14x7.5) so I would suspect that Gamma at -2, Digital Cinema, Medium Lamp, Manual Iris -10 should get similar results as I'm getting using the S&M UHD disc referenced in biglen's and my previous posts. I keep Auto Iris off because I dislike the pumping. Auto Iris should definitely be OFF when calibrating.
Having said all that, I do NOT have OLED blacks. Far from it. I can see my screen against my black screen wall in the full black frame of the S&M disc but my shadow detail and contrast, even in the darkest films, are satisfactory. YMMV.
I used the DVE disc for my DVD player setup because I feel that a dedicated DVD player gives me a better, more natural image than using a BD or UHD player for SD discs (yes, we still watch the occasional DVD). I don't think the DVE disc provides sufficient black level and contrast frames for proper subjective visual calibration of UHD or HD playback.
I hope this helps.


----------



## lamoon

I've searched these forums trying to find a good starting point for madvr tone mapping setup for my 5050ube. The latest settings post I was able to find was between @biglen and @PixelPusher15 using v113. 

Are there updated settings since those posts on Jan 26? Are people still using v113 over the newer releases (due to expiration)?

I've been a long time browser on this forum and would like to extend a thank you to everyone's contributions as it really helped guide me through my purchasing decisions 🙏


----------



## Jedi940

Time for an update on my saga. . . It's getting better. 
At first I just threw it in digital cinema mode with medium bulb and the Panasonic in HDR output as this seemed to be the most recommended around the internet. This robbed all my brightness and did not look good at all on my spandex screen. After coming here to check what I settings I should focus on, I switched to natural mode but at the same time also set the Panasonic player to 2020/SDR. This also turned out to be a mistake as I have since discovered this makes the image look very dull. I was also comparing the 4K HDR disk to the Bluray SDR disk as it allowed me to set up both projectors at the same time and do some split screen viewing and also some quick back and forth by blocking them fully. This still showed the that my old W1070 was brighter. I thought because the Panasonic was outputting an SDR picture anyways, it would be the same. This was not the case. 

I spent over an hour this weekend watching the same 2 scenes from Alita. I believe it was chapters 4 and 5 - Where she first meets Hugo in the market followed by the night seen where the woman gets off the bus. I started making detailed notes on the scene. I paid special attention to the length of the shadows to gauge what the sunlight should look like, where the highlights were in each scene and where the shadows were. Same with the night scene. How much detail could I see if various parts of the screen. How did the lamp look, what shadows did it cast and what was visible in them. I also decided to change the Panasonic back to HDR output and this made a huge difference. 

So with the Panasonic outputting HDR again, the lamp on High, and natural mode with gamma back to -2, I finally felt like I was getting somewhere. The picture looked much better. I went back and forth a few times between SDR and HDR output on the Panasonic with the 4k disk and the SDR output did not look good. HDR was clearly better. I was then able to more accurately compare the standard bluray disk on the W1070 to the 4k disk on the Epson. This gave a noticeable improvement in performance. Things like sunlight reflection and deep shadows were definitely more pronounced between the 2 projectors. The reflections were substantially brighter from the 4K disk and the shadows much darker. I then decided to compare the bluray disk only between the two. Doing this made the Epson way too bright on a standard bluray which is was I expected from a projector with 600 more lumens of output. Outdoor screens were almost blown out and the "night" scenes looked more like evening. They were way too bright. The lamp mode will need turned down probably to eco or possibly move to Digital Cinema mode for SDR content to make it look more realistic. I realize this is opposite of what is recommended by some reviewers however, this is my opinion at the moment. 

I still need to do some more tweaking and will probably order the S&M disk for initial calibration. Now all I need to do is decide if my lens is good enough to keep or worth playing refurb roulette to try to get a better one.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Jedi940 said:


> Time for an update on my saga. . . It's getting better.
> At first I just threw it in digital cinema mode with medium bulb and the Panasonic in HDR output as this seemed to be the most recommended around the internet. This robbed all my brightness and did not look good at all on my spandex screen. After coming here to check what I settings I should focus on, I switched to natural mode but at the same time also set the Panasonic player to 2020/SDR. This also turned out to be a mistake as I have since discovered this makes the image look very dull. I was also comparing the 4K HDR disk to the Bluray SDR disk as it allowed me to set up both projectors at the same time and do some split screen viewing and also some quick back and forth by blocking them fully. This still showed the that my old W1070 was brighter. I thought because the Panasonic was outputting an SDR picture anyways, it would be the same. This was not the case.
> 
> I spent over an hour this weekend watching the same 2 scenes from Alita. I believe it was chapters 4 and 5 - Where she first meets Hugo in the market followed by the night seen where the woman gets off the bus. I started making detailed notes on the scene. I paid special attention to the length of the shadows to gauge what the sunlight should look like, where the highlights were in each scene and where the shadows were. Same with the night scene. How much detail could I see if various parts of the screen. How did the lamp look, what shadows did it cast and what was visible in them. I also decided to change the Panasonic back to HDR output and this made a huge difference.
> 
> So with the Panasonic outputting HDR again, the lamp on High, and natural mode with gamma back to -2, I finally felt like I was getting somewhere. The picture looked much better. I went back and forth a few times between SDR and HDR output on the Panasonic with the 4k disk and the SDR output did not look good. HDR was clearly better. I was then able to more accurately compare the standard bluray disk on the W1070 to the 4k disk on the Epson. This gave a noticeable improvement in performance. Things like sunlight reflection and deep shadows were definitely more pronounced between the 2 projectors. The reflections were substantially brighter from the 4K disk and the shadows much darker. I then decided to compare the bluray disk only between the two. Doing this made the Epson way too bright on a standard bluray which is was I expected from a projector with 600 more lumens of output. Outdoor screens were almost blown out and the "night" scenes looked more like evening. They were way too bright. The lamp mode will need turned down probably to eco or possibly move to Digital Cinema mode for SDR content to make it look more realistic. I realize this is opposite of what is recommended by some reviewers however, this is my opinion at the moment.
> 
> I still need to do some more tweaking and will probably order the S&M disk for initial calibration. Now all I need to do is decide if my lens is good enough to keep or worth playing refurb roulette to try to get a better one.


I find it interesting that you found HDR to SDR on the Panny not pleasurable. That's kinda the opposite of most findings. Although, sending HDR allows you to use the HDR slider and manipulate the EOTF. This could make the image brighter but pushing it too far will clip highlights. I wonder what you will find as you experiment with more titles.

I'm not surprised you found natural/high lamp too bright. Instead of switching to Digital Cinema, which engages the color filter and is unneeded for SDR, I'd instead play with lamp modes or, if you're afraid of flicker, the manual iris to reduce brightness. 

Back to HDR. If you set the Panny to HDR to SDR2020 again and enable the HDR Optimizer, you can play with some of the options in there to tailor the gamma curve. You might find that doing that results in the punch you are looking for and is more consistent from film to film.


----------



## biglen

grayson said:


> I'm not asking for anyone's settings a I will be calibrating myself.
> Just asking for advice for which setting to adjust to improve blacks.


Same thing applies. Settings for better black levels, will work for one person, and not another. Black levels can be as simple as having a pitch black room, as opposed to someone who has ambient light in their room. The screen type can also make a huge difference in black levels. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

lamoon said:


> I've searched these forums trying to find a good starting point for madvr tone mapping setup for my 5050ube. The latest settings post I was able to find was between @biglen and @PixelPusher15 using v113.
> 
> Are there updated settings since those posts on Jan 26? Are people still using v113 over the newer releases (due to expiration)?
> 
> I've been a long time browser on this forum and would like to extend a thank you to everyone's contributions as it really helped guide me through my purchasing decisions


Check out the post for Improving MadVR HDR to SDR for Projectors. There are a bunch of settings posted there. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jedi940

PixelPusher15 said:


> I find it interesting that you found HDR to SDR on the Panny not pleasurable. That's kinda the opposite of most findings. Although, sending HDR allows you to use the HDR slider and manipulate the EOTF. This could make the image brighter but pushing it too far will clip highlights. I wonder what you will find as you experiment with more titles.
> 
> I'm not surprised you found natural/high lamp too bright. Instead of switching to Digital Cinema, which engages the color filter and is unneeded for SDR, I'd instead play with lamp modes or, if you're afraid of flicker, the manual iris to reduce brightness.
> 
> Back to HDR. If you set the Panny to HDR to SDR2020 again and enable the HDR Optimizer, you can play with some of the options in there to tailor the gamma curve. You might find that doing that results in the punch you are looking for and is more consistent from film to film.


Perhaps I need to change the output device from projector to one of the other settings. Maybe setting it to projector, the panasonic is limiting the dynamic range too much. I'll play around with it again tonight.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Jedi940 said:


> Perhaps I need to change the output device from projector to one of the other settings. Maybe setting it to projector, the panasonic is limiting the dynamic range too much. I'll play around with it again tonight.


Oh! Did you not set it to basic luminance/projector (or whatever it is called)??

That would make a big difference


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## Jedi940

PixelPusher15 said:


> Oh! Did you not set it to basic luminance/projector (or whatever it is called)??
> 
> That would make a big difference


It is on projector now. I'm wondering if that is the problem. 

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Jedi940 said:


> It is on projector now. I'm wondering if that is the problem.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk


Setting it to one of the other options will most likely make it darker


----------



## Jedi940

PixelPusher15 said:


> Setting it to one of the other options will most likely make it darker


That's what I thought but I'm just looking for other options. If most people feel the panasonic tone mapping is better and mine clearly isn't then I must have something set wrong. I'll double check all the options in the player. I do currently have my HDR slider on the projector down to 3 or 4 with the HDR output. I'll look in to the optimizer settings.


----------



## hms17B

NxNW said:


> Maybe "perfectly" was not a very precise word choice. I mean obviously it's not OLED black. Now _that's_ perfect. But anyway, very dark. Again, I'm coming from a DLP with no Iris whatsoever, so this was new territory for me.


Guess I'm not the odd one then. Good to know. Already got enough oddities without adding another one.


----------



## grayson

Thanks @fredworld and @PixelPusher15

So digital cinema for hdr and lamp on medium and natural for SDR in Eco. What I've been doing is setting dynamic iris to high and closing the iris as well. Is this counter productive?


----------



## PixelPusher15

grayson said:


> Thanks @fredworld and @PixelPusher15
> 
> So digital cinema for hdr and lamp on medium and natural for SDR in Eco. What I've been doing is setting dynamic iris to high and closing the iris as well. Is this counter productive?


That’s what I did. I like the dynamic iris


----------



## fredworld

grayson said:


> Thanks @fredworld and @PixelPusher15
> 
> So digital cinema for hdr and lamp on medium and natural for SDR in Eco. What I've been doing is setting dynamic iris to high and closing the iris as well. Is this counter productive?


I'll defer to @PixelPusher15 and his greater experience and knowledge, so I'll reply in respect only as to my own personal tastes for what engages my attention: I'm in Digital Cinema for HDR and SDR, both in Medium Lamp. I leave Auto Iris OFF because I find the pumping distracting. I recently settled on -10 for the manual Iris which gives me an acceptably pleasing level of contrast. 
Who knows? In six months I might have different engagement levels for what looks best.
YMMV.


----------



## hms17B

grayson said:


> Thanks @fredworld and @PixelPusher15
> 
> So digital cinema for hdr and lamp on medium and natural for SDR in Eco. What I've been doing is setting dynamic iris to high and closing the iris as well. Is this counter productive?


It's what I'm doing and the results seem pretty good to me. Except I'm still on the fence about ECO lamp considering how many have reported flickering when using it. Medium on SDR looks OK, but I'd like to try ECO if I can muster up the nerve to use it. I too listened to their expertise and experience.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> I'll defer to @PixelPusher15 and his greater experience and knowledge, so I'll reply in respect only as to my own personal tastes for what engages my attention: I'm in Digital Cinema for HDR and SDR, both in Medium Lamp. I leave Auto Iris OFF because I find the pumping distracting. I recently settled on -10 for the manual Iris which gives me an acceptably pleasing level of contrast.
> Who knows? In six months I might have different engagement levels for what looks best.
> YMMV.


So much of this is personal taste. Its just crazy how screen size plays a role. Digital Cinema and an iris setting at -10 would be like a candle lighting up my 123” 0.8 gain screen. Have you tried Medium/Natural and a really closed iris for SDR? I’m wondering how much more contrast you could eek out?


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> So much of this is personal taste. Its just crazy how screen size plays a role. Digital Cinema and an iris setting at -10 would be like a candle lighting up my 123” 0.8 gain screen. Have you tried Medium/Natural and a really closed iris for SDR? I’m wondering how much more contrast you could eek out?


I haven't used Medium/Natural for almost two years or more but back then I wasn't familiar with toying around with the manual iris. I'll give it a try. Thanks.


----------



## DavidK442

Jedi940 said:


> That's what I thought but I'm just looking for other options. If most people feel the panasonic tone mapping is better and mine clearly isn't then I must have something set wrong. I'll double check all the options in the player. I do currently have my HDR slider on the projector down to 3 or 4 with the HDR output. I'll look in to the optimizer settings.


Setting up the Panasonic’s HDR optimizer is not straight forward. Search You Tube and you will find a detailed walk through video of the various settings. I have the player myself but haven’t made the jump to “projector pseudo-HDR” yet so haven’t had to play with it. In fact I have the same W1070 that you upgraded from so am watching your posts with interest.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> So much of this is personal taste. Its just crazy how screen size plays a role. Digital Cinema and an iris setting at -10 would be like a candle lighting up my 123” 0.8 gain screen. Have you tried Medium/Natural and a really closed iris for SDR? I’m wondering how much more contrast you could eek out?


Yeah, Digital Cinema looks like poo on my 125” screen, even in my bat cave. The colors are very dull, and have no pop. Natural and Bright Cinema look the best with my setup. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## koberlin1

fredworld said:


> I haven't used Medium/Natural for almost two years or more but back then I wasn't familiar with toying around with the manual iris. I'll give it a try. Thanks.





biglen said:


> Yeah, Digital Cinema looks like poo on my 125” screen, even in my bat cave. The colors are very dull, and have no pop. Natural and Bright Cinema look the best with my setup.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's surprising! Digital Cinema on the 6050UB is my usual mode. It's also the only mode offering the full DCI/P3 color gamut. 

It looks great, even on my 120" .85 gain pure gray microperf screen. 6050UB zoom is at around 50%. Lamp Mode set to High. Gamma at 1. Auto Iris set to Fast. Overall very little tweaking done to the Digital Cinema mode OOTB settings. Fyi I had a 1.0 gain white microperf screen prior and did not like the contrast and color reproduction so switched out to the .85 gray and haven't looked back.

Digital Cinema mode pairs well with my Panny DP-UB820 with HDR Optimizer On (outputting SDR conversion). I crank the UB820's HDR optimizer's Dynamic Range Adjustment feature all the way up with no adverse effects. Even a challenging 4K UHD BluRay like Bladerunner 2049 looks good (first 10 minutes puts any PJ and sound system through it's paces). Pops almost as much as when viewing on my Sony XR75Z9J which is a light cannon. Can even have lights over seating area on at ~50% without killing blacks.

Who else has gotten good results pairing the 6050UB with the DP-UB820?

Digital Cinema still looks good when viewing streams on AppleTV 4K or Roku Premier+ even without any HDR tone mapping/optimization in place. Overall a tad dimmer than viewing the DP-820UB but totally acceptable and enjoyable. Have both AppleTV and Roku set to 4K SDR. 

Natural mode at factory settings for when we have lights or when critical viewing is not needed. High or normal lamp mode. Usually Tivo, NVidia Shield or Wii Switch.

Bright Cinema mode for all HDTV stuff.

Awaiting eminent arrival of X-Rite EyeOne Display 3 Pro + ChromaPure calibration package to fine tune.


----------



## biglen

koberlin1 said:


> That's surprising! Digital Cinema on the 6050UB is my usual mode. It's also the only mode offering the full DCI/P3 color gamut.... looks sooo good, even on my SI 120" .85 pure gray microperf screen. 6050 zoom is at around 50%. Lamp Mode set to High. Very little tweaking done to the Digital Cinema mode OOTB settings. Awaiting eminent arrival of X-Rite EyeOne Display 3 Pro + ChromaPure calibration package to fine tune.
> 
> Digital Cinema pairs perfect with my Panny DP-UB820 with HDR Optimizer On (outputting SDR conversion). I crank the HDR optimizer's Dynamic Range Adjustment feature all the way up with no adverse effects. Even a challenging 4K UHD BluRay like Bladerunner 2049 looks good (first 10 minutes puts any PJ and sound system through it's paces). Pops almost as much as when viewing on my Sony XR75Z9J which is a light cannon.
> 
> Digital Cinema still looks good when viewing AppleTV streams even without any HDR tone mapping/optimization in place. Overall a tad dimmer than viewing the DP-820UB but totally acceptable and enjoyable.
> 
> Natural at factory settings for when we have lights on when critical viewing is not needed. High or normal lamp mode.
> 
> Bright Cinema for all HDTV stuff.
> 
> Who else has gotten good results pairing the 6050UB with the DP-UB820?


I have a 5050, so maybe that’s why Digital Cinema looks different for me?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> I have a 5050, so maybe that’s why Digital Cinema looks different for me?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nah, the 5050 and 6050 should look the same with regard to this. The only improvement the 6050 could have is being a bit sharper and having a smidge better contrast (we're talking like less than 10% improvement. That's because of the lens potentially being better. Sometimes the color filter can vary how much light it reduces so there's a chance koberlin1 has a filter that allows more light but these shouldn't be huge swings.

I chalk it up to personal preferences.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Nah, the 5050 and 6050 should look the same with regard to this. The only improvement the 6050 could have is being a bit sharper and having a smidge better contrast (we're talking like less than 10% improvement. That's because of the lens potentially being better. Sometimes the color filter can vary how much light it reduces so there's a chance koberlin1 has a filter that allows more light but these shouldn't be huge swings.
> 
> I chalk it up to personal preferences.


I had my 5050 professionally calibrated, so in theory, Digital Cinema is set up properly. It just has no pop to the colors, and it’s dim. Natural and Bright Cinema look much better, even to Kevin Miller, who calibrated it. He specializes in Epsons too, so he knows what he’s looking at. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> So much of this is personal taste. Its just crazy how screen size plays a role. Digital Cinema and an iris setting at -10 would be like a candle lighting up my 123” 0.8 gain screen. Have you tried Medium/Natural and a really closed iris for SDR? I’m wondering how much more contrast you could eek out?





fredworld said:


> I haven't used Medium/Natural for almost two years or more but back then I wasn't familiar with toying around with the manual iris. I'll give it a try. Thanks.


I set a memory for Natural/Medium (so I could compare it to Digital Cinema/Medium) using my subjective visual calibration with the S&M UHD Benchmark disc. The image adjustment sliders required only a slight difference in settings. I watched the first half hour of Life in UHD in the Natural mode and I was impressed with the clarity, depth, contrast and color. The next night I watched part of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, the murky color drained scene in the forest with Valdemort, in UHD and then all of 21 Bridges on HD bluray. I feel those two films challenge shadow detail recovery. There was a very subtle difference in contrast which I found favored the Digital Cinema setup for black level detail. Color was identical on both films and on the Color/Tint pattern of the S&M disc. Similarly with the Color Dot frame where I was able to see the same numbers inside the dots except for two of them that I confirmed with my wife's better color reception. As I mentioned in previous posts my screen is on the smallish side (see sig) so I wouldn't rely on my assessment for larger screens. I'll continue to evaluate in the upcoming weeks and will check the S&M demo material, too.


----------



## NxNW

Color Dot frame? Is this on spears and munsil? 

Maybe your wife is a tetrachromat 



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrachromacy


----------



## fredworld

NxNW said:


> Color Dot frame? Is this on spears and munsil?
> 
> Maybe your wife is a tetrachromat
> 
> 
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrachromacy


Yes, it's on the Spears and Muncil disc. BTW, I forgot to mention that after some A/B comparisons with the Iris set at various levels, I, once again, settled on -10 as the best compromise between contrast and shadow detail. And again, I do not have OLED black and the screen is visible (along with my three largest dust blobs) against my black wall on full frame black.


----------



## grayson

I reset my preset from various sources. Natural for SDR, lamp eco, gamma - 2. Iris closed to 12.
Blacks are amazing. Not as good as oled but still great. 
HDR on the other hand can't seem to get acceptable black using Digital cinema, gamma - 2 and lamp medium. Turned brightness down to vutual zero had still seems very grey. It's as if light from projector can't seem to go dim.


----------



## PixelPusher15

grayson said:


> I reset my preset from various sources. Natural for SDR, lamp eco, gamma - 2. Iris closed to 12.
> Blacks are amazing. Not as good as oled but still great.
> HDR on the other hand can't seem to get acceptable black using Digital cinema, gamma - 2 and lamp medium. Turned brightness down to vutual zero had still seems very grey. It's as if light from projector can't seem to go dim.


That sounds like poor HDR tone mapping. 

Blacks should be darker on digital cinema but I'm guessing a lot of the dynamic range is compressed. This means highlights aren't bright enough to make the blacks look black. You need more light off the screen so your eyeball's iris closes down. 

What source and what HDR slider level do you have set?


----------



## grayson

PixelPusher15 said:


> That sounds like poor HDR tone mapping.
> 
> Blacks should be darker on digital cinema but I'm guessing a lot of the dynamic range is compressed. This means highlights aren't bright enough to make the blacks look black. You need more light off the screen so your eyeball's iris closes down.
> 
> What source and what HDR slider level do you have set?


Shield TV. Hdr set to 5. I have a panny 820 4k. Not watched anything on that yet Thanks


----------



## NxNW

There's a blank button on the remote that turns off all signal input to the light engine. This will let you see what the true 'optical black' floor is for your current combination of physical controls (such as lamp power/ color filter/ fixed iris).

If you have a visibly elevated black floor then it doesn't matter what your signal settings (brightness, gamma, HDR slider etc) are, you can't get any darker than that.


----------



## PixelPusher15

NxNW said:


> There's a blank button on the remote that turns off all signal input to the light engine. This will let you see what the true 'optical black' floor is for your current combination of physical controls (such as lamp power/ color filter/ fixed iris).
> 
> If you have a visibly elevated black floor then it doesn't matter what your signal settings (brightness, gamma, HDR slider etc) are, you can't get any darker than that.


While that's true, @grayson says SDR looks good and HDR looks bad and I'm assuming they're using the Shield for both. Meaning signal input is consistent. I'm going to assume there isn't something weird happening internally in the Shield. 

Grayson, you can try moving up the slider but you will start to clip highlights. You could also try a custom gamma....man I really need to share my custom gamma as a starting point for some of these issues.. 

It looks like this for HDR mastered at 1000 nits and that targets 80 nits on screen:


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## grayson

grayson said:


> Shield TV. Hdr set to 5. Thanks


I have


PixelPusher15 said:


> While that's true, @grayson says SDR looks good and HDR looks bad and I'm assuming they're using the Shield for both. Meaning signal input is consistent. I'm going to assume there isn't something weird happening internally in the Shield.
> 
> Grayson, you can try moving up the slider but you will start to clip highlights. You could also try a custom gamma....man I really need to share my custom gamma as a starting point for some of these issues..
> 
> It looks like this for HDR mastered at 1000 nits and that targets 80 nits on screen:
> View attachment 3253766


Hdr slider you mean up as in 1 down is a lower number? Sorry for sounding dumb. Will have a play about with the Gamma and will try my panny tomorrow.


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## PixelPusher15

grayson said:


> I have
> 
> Hdr slider you mean up as in 1 down is a lower number? Sorry for sounding dumb. Will have a play about with the Gamma and will try my panny tomorrow.


Oh sorry, I meant down. I find the scale weird. It should be up since it makes it brighter


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## grayson

You state it should be up as it makes it brighter yet I want better blacks? 
I bet you regret reply to my post🤣

Just an example to improve blacks 1 or 7?
Thanks so much for your help so far.


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## PixelPusher15

grayson said:


> You state it should be up as it makes it brighter yet I want better blacks?
> I bet you regret reply to my post🤣
> 
> Just an example to improve blacks 1 or 7?
> Thanks so much for your help so far.


Nope, no regret. You want the highlights to be brighter so the blacks look blacker. (more contrast). The slider has more of an impact on the top 75% off the image than the bottom 25%

Closer to 1 to maybe make black look better. It might not work since it does also have a slight impact on dark areas too. That's why calibration is good.


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## biglen

I’ve tried Digital Cinema using my HTPC/MadVR, and a Shield Pro. Both look dull to me, and the picture doesn’t pop. I’ve even had my wife look at Digital Cinema without telling her what to look for and she gave the same description. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> I’ve tried Digital Cinema using my HTPC/MadVR, and a Shield Pro. Both look dull to me, and the picture doesn’t pop. I’ve even had my wife look at Digital Cinema without telling her what to look for and she gave the same description.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Did you adjust the target nit level in madVR?


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## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Did you adjust the target nit level in madVR?


Yes, and I don’t really see much difference between setting it at 50, or 150. It’s very subtle. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> Yes, and I don’t really see much difference between setting it at 50, or 150. It’s very subtle.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That should have made a very noticeable difference. What are your trade quality for performance settings and other HDR settings? I'm still not the greatest at madVR but when I change it from 50 to 150 I for sure notice a difference.


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## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> That should have made a very noticeable difference. What are your trade quality for performance settings and other HDR settings? I'm still not the greatest at madVR but when I change it from 50 to 150 I for sure notice a difference.


Here are my settings. On a paused video, if I change it from 50 to 150, should I see a difference, or will I only see it while a video is playing?


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## grayson

biglen said:


> I’ve tried Digital Cinema using my HTPC/MadVR, and a Shield Pro. Both look dull to me, and the picture doesn’t pop. I’ve even had my wife look at Digital Cinema without telling her what to look for and she gave the same description.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Which mode do you use?


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## biglen

grayson said:


> Which mode do you use?


Mode???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## grayson

biglen said:


> Mode???
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Digital cinema, natural etc


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## biglen

grayson said:


> Digital cinema, natural etc


Seriously? My post said I was using Digital Cinema. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## grayson

biglen said:


> Seriously? My post said I was using Digital Cinema.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You said you have tried not using Digital cinema but it looked dull to you. I assumed if this was the case you would be using a different mode to digital cinema. Tried implies you are not using this mode anymore.


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## biglen

grayson said:


> You said you were using Digital cinema but it looked dull to you. I assumed if this was the case you would be using a different mode to digital cinema.


Huh???? That makes zero sense. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> Huh???? That makes zero sense.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


He’s saying what mode do you normally use? If DC is dull that what mode are you comparing it to?


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> He’s saying what mode do you normally use? If DC is dull that what mode are you comparing it to?


Natural and Bright Cinema. I mentioned that in an earlier post. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> Here are my settings. On a paused video, if I change it from 50 to 150, should I see a difference, or will I only see it while a video is playing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You have a later version than me so I’m not sure of the differences with the whole right panel. I find it interesting that you have highlight and contrast recovery turned off but then again, I’m not sure of the right panel settings.

One thing I notice is that the profile you have selected doesn’t appear to be active. It should be bold when active. Are you adjusting the correct profile? The changes will take place while paused.


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> Natural and Bright Cinema. I mentioned that in an earlier post.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


_I_ know you did, lol. Just helping the other dude


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> You have a later version than me so I’m not sure of the differences with the whole right panel. I find it interesting that you have highlight and contrast recovery turned off but then again, I’m not sure of the right panel settings.
> 
> One thing I notice is that the profile you have selected doesn’t appear to be active. It should be bold when active. Are you adjusting the correct profile? The changes will take place while paused.


When I took that pic, a movie wasn’t playing. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> When I took that pic, a movie wasn’t playing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Try changing the nit value to something stupid, like 2000. The picture should get much darker. If it doesn’t then you might be running into an issue I’ve hit where nothing works in MadVR and I need to delete the registry 😬


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## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Try changing the nit value to something stupid, like 2000. The picture should get much darker. If it doesn’t then you might be running into an issue I’ve hit where nothing works in MadVR and I need to delete the registry


I tried 300, and didn’t notice much change. I’ll try 2000. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Try changing the nit value to something stupid, like 2000. The picture should get much darker. If it doesn’t then you might be running into an issue I’ve hit where nothing works in MadVR and I need to delete the registry


I tried 2000, and it was very subtle. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> I tried 2000, and it was very subtle.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I saw in the support thread that you are entering the change in dynamic target nits. I have been referring to peak display luminance. That value should match the nits you are actually getting on screen. If you were getting 85 in natural/medium then you are probably getting around 50 in high lamp for digital cinema. Dynamic target nits doesn't have as large an impact and I'm still not sure how it completely works so I'm curious to see the responses so hopefully I can also get a better explanation of how it works.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> I saw in the support thread that you are entering the change in dynamic target nits. I have been referring to peak display luminance. That value should match the nits you are actually getting on screen. If you were getting 85 in natural/medium then you are probably getting around 50 in high lamp for digital cinema. Dynamic target nits doesn't have as large an impact and I'm still not sure how it completely works so I'm curious to see the responses so hopefully I can also get a better explanation of how it works.


From what I remember, dynamic target nits acts like an HDR slider. When I move the slider on my 5050, there’s clearly a difference between each number. I’d have to think if I put 2000 in the dynamic target nits, I should see a huge difference. Peak display luminance, are the actual nits on your screen. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> From what I remember, dynamic target nits acts like an HDR slider. When I move the slider on my 5050, there’s clearly a difference between each number. I’d have to think if I put 2000 in the dynamic target nits, I should see a huge difference. Peak display luminance, are the actual nits on your screen.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, and when you move from Natural to Digital Cinema the filter engages and you are losing ~40% of your nits. You *have *to tell madVR those nits are lost or the tone mapping just isn't going to work.

If you haven't been updating peak display luminance when switching to DC then I'm not surprised at all you find it flat or dull.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Yeah, and when you move from Natural to Digital Cinema the filter engages and you are losing ~40% of your nits. You *have *to tell madVR those nits are lost or the tone mapping just isn't going to work.
> 
> If you haven't been updating peak display luminance when switching to DC then I'm not surprised at all you find it flat or dull.


So I have 85 in the peak luminance box. You’re saying I should bump that number up 40% when I use Digital Cinema, correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> So I have 85 in the peak luminance box. You’re saying I should bump that number up 40% when I use Digital Cinema, correct?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, you need to drop it. If you actually get 85 nits not in Digital Cinema then 85*0.6 = 51 nits for DC. If you normally use Medium lamp and then swtich to high then move that number to something like 60 or 65 for digital cinema.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> No, you need to drop it. If you actually get 85 nits not in Digital Cinema then 85*0.6 = 51 nits for DC. If you normally use Medium lamp and then swtich to high then move that number to something like 60 or 65 for digital cinema.


The reason I don’t think that will matter, is that Digital Cinema looks dull on my Shield Pro too, even messing with the HDR slider on the 5050. The colors just don’t pop. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> The reason I don’t think that will matter, is that Digital Cinema looks dull on my Shield Pro too, even messing with the HDR slider on the 5050. The colors just don’t pop.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Lol, just try it. At least see how changing that number has an impact....it makes a difference. The built in tone mapping in the Epson doesn't do great with only 50 nits, madVR can.

You may not pick it as your preferred mode since it's dimmer but I don't feel like you've given it a fair shot yet.


----------



## hms17B

koberlin1 said:


> That's surprising! Digital Cinema on the 6050UB is my usual mode. It's also the only mode offering the full DCI/P3 color gamut.
> 
> It looks great, even on my 120" .85 gain pure gray microperf screen. 6050UB zoom is at around 50%. Lamp Mode set to High. Gamma at 1. Auto Iris set to Fast. Overall very little tweaking done to the Digital Cinema mode OOTB settings. Fyi I had a 1.0 gain white microperf screen prior and did not like the contrast and color reproduction so switched out to the .85 gray and haven't looked back.
> 
> Digital Cinema mode pairs well with my Panny DP-UB820 with HDR Optimizer On (outputting SDR conversion). I crank the UB820's HDR optimizer's Dynamic Range Adjustment feature all the way up with no adverse effects. Even a challenging 4K UHD BluRay like Bladerunner 2049 looks good (first 10 minutes puts any PJ and sound system through it's paces). Pops almost as much as when viewing on my Sony XR75Z9J which is a light cannon. Can even have lights over seating area on at ~50% without killing blacks.
> 
> Who else has gotten good results pairing the 6050UB with the DP-UB820?
> 
> Digital Cinema still looks good when viewing streams on AppleTV 4K or Roku Premier+ even without any HDR tone mapping/optimization in place. Overall a tad dimmer than viewing the DP-820UB but totally acceptable and enjoyable. Have both AppleTV and Roku set to 4K SDR.
> 
> Natural mode at factory settings for when we have lights or when critical viewing is not needed. High or normal lamp mode. Usually Tivo, NVidia Shield or Wii Switch.
> 
> Bright Cinema mode for all HDTV stuff.
> 
> Awaiting eminent arrival of X-Rite EyeOne Display 3 Pro + ChromaPure calibration package to fine tune.


I use an 820 with a 5050 and like the results, although when trying HDR-to-SDR on the 820, black seemed poorer than when leaving it HDR.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Lol, just try it. At least see how changing that number has an impact....it makes a difference. The built in tone mapping in the Epson doesn't do great with only 50 nits, madVR can.
> 
> You may not pick it as your preferred mode since it's dimmer but I don't feel like you've given it a fair shot yet.


Okay, I put 2000 as the peak luminance, and the screen is almost black, so I know that works. I put it down to 45 for Digital Cinema, and it definitely looks better now. I still prefer Bright Cinema and Natural, but I can now see why some do like Digital Cinema. Thanks PP15 !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## grayson

Finally blacks are nearly black. I need to do a bit more tweaking but it's a vast improvement so far. Thank for all your help👍
How it did it. 
Digital cinema. 
Iris - 10 high speed
Brightness 49
Cusom gamma lowered 2,3,4 until I was happy. 
Gain all 49
Hrd slider 4
Going to order S&M disc when I get paid


----------



## fredworld

grayson said:


> Finally blacks are nearly black. I need to do a bit more tweaking but it's a vast improvement so far. Thank for all your help👍
> How it did it.
> Digital cinema.
> Iris - 10 high speed
> Brightness 49
> Cusom gamma lowered 2,3,4 until I was happy.
> Gain all 49
> Hrd slider 4
> Going to order S&M disc when I get paid


My blacks are better with Auto Iris on High but I can live with the slight rise in black level with it Off to eliminate the pumping during transitions to dark scenes. Did you end up on -2 for Gamma or use the custom curve that @PixelPusher15 recommended (that I haven't tried, yet)? Or is your Gamma on 4?


----------



## grayson

fredworld said:


> My blacks are better with Auto Iris on High but I can live with the slight rise in black level with it Off to eliminate the pumping during transitions to dark scenes. Did you end up on -2 for Gamma or use the custom curve that @PixelPusher15 recommended (that I haven't tried, yet)? Or is your Gamma on 4?


I used the custom gamma preset. HDR slider is on 4. I found below this blacks looked more grey even though it makes the picture brighter. I think what made the biggest impact was lowering the gain to 49. Will do a bit more what I get the s and m disc. Black look more solid rather than a hollow void. Will do some more tweaking over the weekend and some more when I get my s and m disc. The first film I watched last night where I wasn't pausing it to adjust settings .


----------



## NxNW

Still too busy watching stuff on this glorious display to measure it. Not that anyone is asking me for this. But hey, it's the internet, you know I'm going to post the results here once I have them. And yes they will probably reveal exactly nothing new that people didn't already know when this projector first came out three years ago. Still, there's a new generation of upgraders that may be curious to hear it said all over again without wading through 14,000 previous posts in this thread.

One thing that really intrigued me was the increased saturation of colors for regular SDR Rec 709 content with the filter in place in Digital Bright mode. Is this more accurate or less accurate? Need a meter for this. If the native non-filter modes don't cover 100% of the rec 709 game then great, this is an improvement. If it natively covered 100% already and adding the filter simply causes it to _exceed_ the correct gamut then I guess it's fake and I don't want it. Light output is plenty either way in my case, so if it's reasonably accurate I wonder if I am going to want to leave it in this mode all the time?

At a minimum it automatically switches over to wide color gamut when HDR titles come along. So one less thing to adjust. 

As for HDR, definitely the slider is 'according to taste' but for me personally I just barely need to touch it for most titles. On a couple animated titles (Spider Verse, Coco), I did feel the average picture level was too low, so I reduced the slider one click and immediately got plenty more light, totally satisfactory. Bigger adjustments started to clip highlight detail. For Ted Lasso it was harder to find a good compromise, it seems pretty dark if you don't do something, but past some point blacks suffer and anyway it really isn't HDR anymore. So I'm just leaving it at 7 for now. 6 might be plausible as well. Obviously I reserve the right to tweak it later.

I still haven't gotten around to setting brightness, contrast, gamma, or white balance. Nothing I'm seeing is concerning enough to make me take time away from watching actual content. I'm sure once I measure things there will be _some_ opportunities for improvement but it just doesn't seem urgent at the moment- I can't seem to stop using the projector just to enjoy it. So far I've left it configured more or less exactly as it shipped. 

I'm guessing I will discover the white balance of the no-filter modes is too green; either that or the white balance of the filter-in-place modes is too magenta. Switching back and forth is noticeably different (and not just because of the change in overall light intensity). They can't _both_ be right. So someday I'll actually look under the hood and touch some of the finer controls. For now, just sitting back and letting the magic happen.


----------



## Brandon Kozuszek

I watched a little planet earth 2 last night and it still amazes me how good the 5050 looks






























Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## matusov

Has anyone figured out how to turn off the projector with a Firestick remote? I had a similar issue with the Epson 3700, although I did have a bit more success and was able to turn it off with voice by asking Alexa to turn off Fire TV. But I can't seem to figure it out with the 5050...its a bit annoying to reach for multiple remotes...


----------



## JMAX2016

Hey guys. Where do I go to get the latest firmware update to the 5050? I’m sure that’s been asked, but I couldn’t find it. What is the latest version? Also it’s with a usb drive right?


----------



## fredworld

JMAX2016 said:


> Hey guys. Where do I go to get the latest firmware update to the 5050? I’m sure that’s been asked, but I couldn’t find it. What is the latest version? Also it’s with a usb drive right?


Click *here*, then select.
Latest FW is 1.04.
Yes, USB. Be sure you follow the directions. If you need help, see *this post*.


----------



## hms17B

NxNW said:


> Still too busy watching stuff on this glorious display to measure it. Not that anyone is asking me for this. But hey, it's the internet, you know I'm going to post the results here once I have them. And yes they will probably reveal exactly nothing new that people didn't already know when this projector first came out three years ago. Still, there's a new generation of upgraders that may be curious to hear it said all over again without wading through 14,000 previous posts in this thread.
> 
> One thing that really intrigued me was the increased saturation of colors for regular SDR Rec 709 content with the filter in place in Digital Bright mode. Is this more accurate or less accurate? Need a meter for this. If the native non-filter modes don't cover 100% of the rec 709 game then great, this is an improvement. If it natively covered 100% already and adding the filter simply causes it to _exceed_ the correct gamut then I guess it's fake and I don't want it. Light output is plenty either way in my case, so if it's reasonably accurate I wonder if I am going to want to leave it in this mode all the time?
> 
> At a minimum it automatically switches over to wide color gamut when HDR titles come along. So one less thing to adjust.
> 
> As for HDR, definitely the slider is 'according to taste' but for me personally I just barely need to touch it for most titles. On a couple animated titles (Spider Verse, Coco), I did feel the average picture level was too low, so I reduced the slider one click and immediately got plenty more light, totally satisfactory. Bigger adjustments started to clip highlight detail. For Ted Lasso it was harder to find a good compromise, it seems pretty dark if you don't do something, but past some point blacks suffer and anyway it really isn't HDR anymore. So I'm just leaving it at 7 for now. 6 might be plausible as well. Obviously I reserve the right to tweak it later.
> 
> I still haven't gotten around to setting brightness, contrast, gamma, or white balance. Nothing I'm seeing is concerning enough to make me take time away from watching actual content. I'm sure once I measure things there will be _some_ opportunities for improvement but it just doesn't seem urgent at the moment- I can't seem to stop using the projector just to enjoy it. So far I've left it configured more or less exactly as it shipped.
> 
> I'm guessing I will discover the white balance of the no-filter modes is too green; either that or the white balance of the filter-in-place modes is too magenta. Switching back and forth is noticeably different (and not just because of the change in overall light intensity). They can't _both_ be right. So someday I'll actually look under the hood and touch some of the finer controls. For now, just sitting back and letting the magic happen.


Once you do get into the adjustments, let us know what you come up with.


----------



## hms17B

Somewhere in the S&M site there was a mention of using the Color control to get better results on the clipping pattern when doing SDR, but they never went beyond that. Said something about covering it later, but I couldn't find anything more. I tried it, and lowering the Color does bring out the gradations in the clipping concentric squares better. But it also depresses the color a bit, so would be a trade off. Has anyone tried this to good (or bad) effect?


----------



## NxNW

hms17B said:


> Once you do get into the adjustments, let us know what you come up with.


Haven't gotten far, but i will say the first thing I noticed was, while some of the original reviewers immediately had to reduce the gamma to preset "-2", I did not. Pretty sure my new unit needs to go the _other_ direction to get closer to spec. So either my unit is different, something has changed in the manufacturing process over the years, or I'm not measuring something right. I'll have more details to report later, but that right there is already a good example of why you can't just blindly apply somebody else's settings and expect it to automatically improve your results.


----------



## PixelPusher15

NxNW said:


> Haven't gotten far, but i will say the first thing I noticed was, while some of the original reviewers immediately had to reduce the gamma to preset "-2", I did not. Pretty sure my new unit needs to go the _other_ direction to get closer to spec. So either my unit is different, something has changed in the manufacturing process over the years, or I'm not measuring something right. I'll have more details to report later, but that right there is already a good example of why you can't just blindly apply somebody else's settings and expect it to automatically improve your results.


What is your goal and what are you testing the gamma presets on?


----------



## NxNW

PixelPusher15 said:


> What is your goal and what are you testing the gamma presets on?


I'm on natural with auto iris off. My goal for SDR is 1886. 

Obviously before proceeding i need to triple check the basics.. HCFR can be fiddly so I don't want to make too much out of this until I'm pretty sure I'm doing it right.


----------



## NxNW

NxNW said:


> Haven't gotten far, but i will say the first thing I noticed was, while some of the original reviewers immediately had to reduce the gamma to preset "-2", I did not.





NxNW said:


> Obviously before proceeding i need to triple check the basics..


Oops. I 'triple checked the basics' all right and found a basic setup error. When I got things configured _properly_, my 5050 prefers -2 gamma just like everybody else. How embarrassing. At least I caught it early in the process. 

By the way, the "info screen" is somewhat mysterious to me in the way it reports signal types. I could swear I'm forcing devices to send this or that kind of format, yet it will report something other than what I'm expecting. Is there somewhere this behavior has been discussed previously?


----------



## fredworld

NxNW said:


> Oops. I 'triple checked the basics' all right and found a basic setup error. When I got things configured _properly_, my 5050 prefers -2 gamma just like everybody else. How embarrassing. At least I caught it early in the process.
> 
> By the way, the "info screen" is somewhat mysterious to me in the way it reports signal types. I could swear I'm forcing devices to send this or that kind of format, yet it will report something other than what I'm expecting. Is there somewhere this behavior has been discussed previously?


If you're using an AVR then check its HDMI output settings. It might be up-converting or down-converting the video resolution. Do likewise with your source equipment. Is your HDMI cable 4k certified?


----------



## NxNW

fredworld said:


> If you're using an AVR then check its HDMI output settings. It might be up-converting or down-converting the video resolution. Do likewise with your source equipment. Is your HDMI cable 4k certified?


I have more testing to do with getting sources to talk to the projector in a way I understand, and yes I agree, I should probably check cables while I'm at it. Note I am exclusively focusing on HD 1080p SDR formats at this early stage. 

I suppose I'll have to involve the AVR at some point. My first instinct, however, was to connect whatever pattern generator I'm using (and I have several choices here) directly to the projector to eliminate complexity. 

The reason I'm asking about the 5050's info screen is at some point I connected my trusty old Oppo 103 directly to the HDMI 1 port and discovered that no matter what I told the Oppo to put out, the Epson reported the same thing every time, "RGB video". I have seen the Epson say things like 'digital RGB' and 'component' with other devices but never for the Oppo. Certainly the behavior was different, so the setting on the Oppo was clearly making a visible change to the resulting video. If I told the Oppo to send RGB 0–255, I got the right behavior, but the info screen still reported RGB "video". If the Oppo sent YCC, the 16-235 levels resulted in visibly different video but the Epson displayed the same report. That didn't seem right. YCC is not RGB.

That's why I'm asking if this is has been discussed already so I can get up to speed. I suppose at some point I need to RTFM


----------



## Maineiac12

Tone mapping question. I have a 5050ub and a Panasonic 820 player. I’ve been seeing some people talk about having the player output “2020 SDR”. I already have the luminance setting set to “projector” on my 820.

Is there any benefit to this setting on the 5050ub?


----------



## NxNW

If you feed it the kind of signals it is expecting, this projector is really amazing!

Just factory reset, switch to natural mode, bump gamma to -2 and stop. It's already pretty much perfect in SDR. 

(As several reviewers have noted, the blue primary might be slightly under saturated, but it is also brighter than standard and the 'two wrongs make a right' and the result is perceptually very close to a proper Rec 709 blue primary. And even this is only noticeable for that rare content that is trying to portray actual pure blue; less saturated blues are plenty accurate. In any event you shouldn't try to change it.)

Every measurement seemed to be "under 3dE", ie visually indistinguishable from perfection. 

It displays normal content from normal devices beautifully. But I'm still baffled at how it does HDMI handshakes with various older devices (and various kinds of cables) and how it reports signal formats and color spaces. I did notice one thing for sure, if you make a format change on your source, you really need to force a new HDMI handshake (eg switch from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 and back to HDMI 1) to get the new behavior you are looking for. Anyway, modern equipment seems to get along fine with it. 

Now on to HDR..


----------



## hms17B

Maineiac12 said:


> Tone mapping question. I have a 5050ub and a Panasonic 820 player. I’ve been seeing some people talk about having the player output “2020 SDR”. I already have the luminance setting set to “projector” on my 820.
> 
> Is there any benefit to this setting on the 5050ub?


Same here. But when I tried the HDR to SDR on the 820, the image seemed worse. So I have the same question.


----------



## fredworld

Maineiac12 said:


> Tone mapping question. I have a 5050ub and a Panasonic 820 player. I’ve been seeing some people talk about having the player output “2020 SDR”. I already have the luminance setting set to “projector” on my 820.
> 
> Is there any benefit to this setting on the 5050ub?





hms17B said:


> Same here. But when I tried the HDR to SDR on the 820, the image seemed worse. So I have the same question.


Here's the *post, #334,* that I believe addresses that.


----------



## Finder133

is it a good mount ceiling for this projector ? It can support 70 lbs and it's not expensive compared to chef mount :








QualGear Adaptateur de plafond simple pour solive, kit de montage de projecteur de 7,6 cm, 3,8 cm, noir : Amazon.ca: Électronique


QualGear Adaptateur de plafond simple pour solive, kit de montage de projecteur de 7,6 cm, 3,8 cm, noir : Amazon.ca: Électronique



www.amazon.ca


----------



## koberlin1

That QualGear looks ok, although the ceiling trim plate is huge make sure you have room for it. The Chief CHF4500 (comes with the 6050 Pro) is great...selling at Epson for a hefty $299 tho could prob find used one.


----------



## koberlin1

Finished calibrating my 6050UB. Started with Natural at factory as Digital Cinema at factory pre-calibrated pretty far off target and I thought it would be difficult to get in spec. 

Before and after cal improvements in Natural mode are stellar on paper and visually a great bump up. 

Post cal results show 6500K, BT.709 color gamut accuracy is spot on, factory gamma settings stayed at 0, with grayscale and RGB showing big improvements. Lots of other fun and beneficial little details in the post-cal generated results report.

Visually I can definitely notice the difference. Can even enjoy mission critical viewing with some ambient light with lamp at medium. Whereas before I needed to run in the Bright Cinema mode with that high lamp mode engaged. Nice to know I now have that headroom to fall back on when needed.

Confident that I can now dive into the Digital Cinema mode calibration. Hoping with the BT.2020 range I can fine tune even more for critical viewing. 

ChromaPure software + sensor + calibration disc package from CurtPalme website, as well as some studying up using the handy "Calibration Guide for Dummies", was well worth the time and $ investment!

This video cal coupled with my Dirac audio cal really have taken my theater to the next level.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Local Magnolia in Best Buy saying the 6050 is discontinued but may be able to get one. What has anyone else heard?


----------



## Jimmy2Shoes

koberlin1 said:


> Post cal results show 6500K, BT.709 color gamut accuracy is spot on, factory gamma settings stayed at 0, with grayscale and RGB showing big improvements. Lots of other fun and beneficial little details in the post-cal generated results report.


What Gamma did you calibrate to? Most (including myself) have found to get to 2.4, that setting the Epson to -2 Gamma tracks to 2.4 the best.
With Gamma at 0, than it could be tracking at 2.1 or around this area. This would make the picture appear brighter, but would also lack some punch in a dark room environment.


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> Here's the *post, #334,* that I believe addresses that.


That's pretty much what I had. I'll give it another try.


----------



## koberlin1

Jimmy2Shoes said:


> What Gamma did you calibrate to? Most (including myself) have found to get to 2.4, that setting the Epson to -2 Gamma tracks to 2.4 the best.
> With Gamma at 0, than it could be tracking at 2.1 or around this area. This would make the picture appear brighter, but would also lack some punch in a dark room environment.


Software recommended calibrating to 2.22...post call landed at 2.24 with 6050 gamma setting at 0. Tried to make some custom gamma tweaks but was not very effective. I will try bumping Epson down to -1/-2 and do some critical viewing and take some measurements and report back.

Fyi I am projecting to a 120" .85 gray perf screen...imagine this will impact what gamma settings will work best for me and vary from most others.


----------



## WynsWrld98

5050/6050 owners who have their projectors shelf mounted (not bookshelf mounted) can you please post pictures of your shelf and brackets? I need ideas, thanks!


----------



## Acow

Hi Guys,

I got the Epson TW9400 (6050UB) paired with a Panasonic DP-UB820 via a Denon AVR-X4700H.

Should I use the upscaler from the blu-ray player or the 4K enhancement function from the projector for the best clarity of blu-ray discs? 

If I do want to use 4K enhancement function from he projector, I wouldn't need to connect the projector directly to he blu-ray player, right? 

The projector is connected to the AVR and then connected to the blu-ray player. 

The 4K enhancement is grayed out on the projector menu at moment as my understanding the UB820 is doing the job for upscaling and output 4K source. 

Would members who got the similar setup to share some ideas with me please?


----------



## hms17B

Acow said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I got the Epson TW9400 (6050UB) paired with a Panasonic DP-UB820 via a Denon AVR-X4700H.
> 
> Should I use the upscaler from the blu-ray player or the 4K enhancement function from the projector for the best clarity of blu-ray discs?
> 
> If I do want to use 4K enhancement function from he projector, I wouldn't need to connect the projector directly to he blu-ray player, right?
> 
> The projector is connected to the AVR and then connected to the blu-ray player.
> 
> The 4K enhancement is grayed out on the projector menu at moment as my understanding the UB820 is doing the job for upscaling and output 4K source.
> 
> Would members who got the similar setup to share some ideas with me please?


Got a 5050UB, UB820, and X3700H. Video passes thru the 3700. I let the 820 upscale everything. I don't see a difference as to where the upscaling is done. Although, if someone else does see a difference, I too would be interested in their advice.


----------



## Aracorn

WynsWrld98 said:


> 5050/6050 owners who have their projectors shelf mounted (not bookshelf mounted) can you please post pictures of your shelf and brackets? I need ideas, thanks!


----------



## tony123

Just joined the club. Ordered a 5050 refurb today direct from Epson. I'm aware that the refurb program can be frustrating. Fingers crossed, but I'm willing to return a few times if necessary. Looking forward to learning from you guys.


----------



## hms17B

WynsWrld98 said:


> 5050/6050 owners who have their projectors shelf mounted (not bookshelf mounted) can you please post pictures of your shelf and brackets? I need ideas, thanks!


This is a shelf mount originally for CRT TVs. I have a piece of plywood on top to give it more width. The mounting arm-bracket screws into the studs with some fairly heavy-duty screws. It'll hold about 90 pounds. There's also a strap up over the top to keep it from sliding off if there's an earthquake or an asteroid strike.








This company (OmniMount) doesn't make these anymore, but there may be some used ones floating around somewhere. A ready-made solution is nice if you can find one.


----------



## jaredmwright

tony123 said:


> Just joined the club. Ordered a 5050 refurb today direct from Epson. I'm aware that the refurb program can be frustrating. Fingers crossed, but I'm willing to return a few times if necessary. Looking forward to learning from you guys.


Bought my 6050 refurb and my 5030 before it refurb and never had an issue and received good units. They are amazing, connect a Video Processor to it in order to make it perform even better if you have the appetite. It then competes with projectors way more expensive. It's a truly great projector.


----------



## hms17B

tony123 said:


> Just joined the club. Ordered a 5050 refurb today direct from Epson. I'm aware that the refurb program can be frustrating. Fingers crossed, but I'm willing to return a few times if necessary. Looking forward to learning from you guys.


You're also getting a Panasonic UB420? Saw that in another thread. Got one of those and it works very well with the 5050.


----------



## hms17B

jaredmwright said:


> Bought my 6050 refurb and my 5030 before it refurb and never had an issue and received good units. They are amazing, connect a Video Processor to it in order to make it perform even better if you have the appetite. It then competes with projectors way more expensive. It's a truly great projector.


I have the appetite but not the lettuce to feed it.


----------



## jaredmwright

hms17B said:


> I have the appetite but not the lettuce to feed it.


Built my own for $500 on used PC parts. It is definitely doable on a budget.


----------



## tony123

hms17B said:


> You're also getting a Panasonic UB420? Saw that in another thread. Got one of those and it works very well with the 5050.


I'm sure I will get one, but maybe not right away. It's my understanding that for 1080p source, the projector will do the upscale. Getting the UB420 would only be an advantage if I wanted to use 4kBluray. Am I understanding correctly?


----------



## hms17B

tony123 said:


> I'm sure I will get one, but maybe not right away. It's my understanding that for 1080p source, the projector will do the upscale. Getting the UB420 would only be an advantage if I wanted to use 4kBluray. Am I understanding correctly?


Right. And upscaled 1080p looks mighty good. UHD discs look even better so worth considering it for later.


----------



## hms17B

jaredmwright said:


> Built my own for $500 on used PC parts. It is definitely doable on a budget.


On a budget plus bravery.


----------



## jaredmwright

hms17B said:


> On a budget plus bravery.


It's honestly very simple. I have been thinking of making a VP for dummies guide for people to help them get started. Everything is available but it takes a lot of reading and time.


----------



## sddawson

koberlin1 said:


> Digital Cinema still looks good when viewing streams on AppleTV 4K or Roku Premier+ even without any HDR tone mapping/optimization in place. Overall a tad dimmer than viewing the DP-820UB but totally acceptable and enjoyable. Have both AppleTV and Roku set to 4K SDR.


My gut feel is that setting an Apple TV 4K to 4K SDR would output REC709, not BT2020. In that case, there should be no need to use Digital Cinema with its filter and loss of light. Have you found otherwise?


----------



## hms17B

jaredmwright said:


> It's honestly very simple. I have been thinking of making a VP for dummies guide for people to help them get started. Everything is available but it takes a lot of reading and time.


You should. It would be very helpful. It would make even thinking about it less daunting.


----------



## SimpleTheater

WynsWrld98 said:


> Local Magnolia in Best Buy saying the 6050 is discontinued but may be able to get one. What has anyone else heard?


Maybe I missed it, but is the LS12000 the 5050/6050 replacement or are they planning on coming out with a new model in the $3k range?


----------



## imapfsr

Hey All, I hope I am ok to post this but I am looking to purchase the new 11000 so I am selling my 5050UB...anyone interested that lives in BC or preferably on the island by chance?


----------



## DavidK442

SimpleTheater said:


> Maybe I missed it, but is the LS12000 the 5050/6050 replacement or are they planning on coming out with a new model in the $3k range?


No definitive announcement from Epson, but it seems that the 6050UB is dead and the 5050UB will remain in production unchanged for the foreseeable future. Never say never, but it seems doubtful that Epson will upgrade the much lower priced lamp based projectors to undermine sales of the new laser line. Still waiting for a side-by-side comparison to see if that is even worth crying over.


----------



## hms17B

DavidK442 said:


> No definitive announcement from Epson, but it seems that the 6050UB is dead and the 5050UB will remain in production unchanged for the foreseeable future. Never say never, but it seems doubtful that Epson will upgrade the much lower priced lamp based projectors to undermine sales of the new laser line. Still waiting for a side-by-side comparison to see if that is even worth crying over.


Seems that the 5050UB, LS11000, LS12000 would make a reasonable lineup for the foreseeable future. At $1000 intervals from 5050UB up thru LS12000.


----------



## biglen

When I press the Info button when using my Shield Pro and PS5, it says the input is Component. When I use my HTPC and press the Info button, it says RGB-Video. Is that normal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

biglen said:


> When I press the Info button when using my Shield Pro and PS5, it says the input is Component. When I use my HTPC and press the Info button, it says RGB-Video. Is that normal?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes that would be normal. Can't answer for the PS5 but unless the Shield is configured for RGB it will display component as my ATV4K does. HTPC is generally RGB but you can change it to component (YCbCr) if you want.


----------



## biglen

rekbones said:


> Yes that would be normal. Can't answer for the PS5 but unless the Shield is configured for RGB it will display component as my ATV4K does. HTPC is generally RGB but you can change it to component (YCbCr) if you want.


Okay, so basically everything seems normal, correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sage11x

DavidK442 said:


> No definitive announcement from Epson, but it seems that the 6050UB is dead and the 5050UB will remain in production unchanged for the foreseeable future. Never say never, but it seems doubtful that Epson will upgrade the much lower priced lamp based projectors to undermine sales of the new laser line. Still waiting for a side-by-side comparison to see if that is even worth crying over.


That’s a shame as the 4010 could really use a simple update to support HDMI 2.0 and possibly implement their new HDR tone mapping. At $2K the 4010 represents a really nice value but it’s undermined by it’s aging video section.


----------



## WynsWrld98

sage11x said:


> That’s a shame as the 4010 could really use a simple update to support HDMI 2.0 and possibly implement their new HDR tone mapping. At $2K the 4010 represents a really nice value but it’s undermined by it’s aging video section.


Most manufacturers do these type of things to get you to buy the more expensive model


----------



## jaredmwright

sage11x said:


> That’s a shame as the 4010 could really use a simple update to support HDMI 2.0 and possibly implement their new HDR tone mapping. At $2K the 4010 represents a really nice value but it’s undermined by it’s aging video section.


Build a VP/MadVR PC, this resolves many of the shortcomings of older projectors HDR and HDMI limitations, highly worth the time and investment IMHO. Possible to do on a budget between $500-1K all in. 

I can't imagine going back to using my 6050ub without it after seeing just how good the image can and should look.


----------



## RVD26

biglen said:


> When I press the Info button when using my Shield Pro and PS5, it says the input is Component. When I use my HTPC and press the Info button, it says RGB-Video. Is that normal?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you have occasional crashes when streaming content on your Shield Pro? 
I get them every now and then in the middle of a movie when streaming my local rips stored on my NAS and I'm trying to figure out if it's an issue with the Shield or projector.


----------



## tony123

I need some clarity on how to transition my theater into 4k. I had this discussion going on my own thread, but it isn't getting much traffic. I looked through this thread, but it is a lot to dig through.

I'm currently using an Integra 40.1 processor (1080p), so it doesn't pass 4k. My 5050UB shows up tomorrow and I want to be ready.

I just picked up a Panasonic 420UB as my new disc player. It will allow for me to split the audio off to the Integra and send the 4k signal direct to the 5050. However, I'm disappointed to see that the Panasonic doesn't have some streaming apps I would like and that it is as slow and clumsy at apps as it sounds.

I have an AppleTV 4k, that I would like to use for all apps. However, I will now have two devices that need to send 4k video out.

On my thread, this device was recommended.
*Newcare*
It appears I can use this to switch between multiple devices? My Integra processor would stay on one input always and I would use the Newcare to do the switching? This is a little clumsy, but seems it would work.

Am I on the right track and understanding correctly? Is there anything more simple that does the same job? I expect I might upgrade processors in the future, but I would like to put it off awhile.

Thanks.


----------



## NxNW

Impressive thread - that's quite a long term project!

I personally would not buy a $50 gadget just because I couldn't bear to part with an older device that is worth maybe a hundred bucks. Apply the money to any modern (4K compatible) AVR instead. Route everything through the AVR and let it do the switching. 

Maybe that's not what you wanted to hear, but you know it's the right way.

Maybe more pertinent to this thread, are you lighting up that 200" screen with an Epson 5050? Wow man.


----------



## hms17B

tony123 said:


> I need some clarity on how to transition my theater into 4k. I had this discussion going on my own thread, but it isn't getting much traffic. I looked through this thread, but it is a lot to dig through.
> 
> I'm currently using an Integra 40.1 processor (1080p), so it doesn't pass 4k. My 5050UB shows up tomorrow and I want to be ready.
> 
> I just picked up a Panasonic 420UB as my new disc player. It will allow for me to split the audio off to the Integra and send the 4k signal direct to the 5050. However, I'm disappointed to see that the Panasonic doesn't have some streaming apps I would like and that it is as slow and clumsy at apps as it sounds.
> 
> I have an AppleTV 4k, that I would like to use for all apps. However, I will now have two devices that need to send 4k video out.
> 
> On my thread, this device was recommended.
> *Newcare*
> It appears I can use this to switch between multiple devices? My Integra processor would stay on one input always and I would use the Newcare to do the switching? This is a little clumsy, but seems it would work.
> 
> Am I on the right track and understanding correctly? Is there anything more simple that does the same job? I expect I might upgrade processors in the future, but I would like to put it off awhile.
> 
> Thanks.


That Newcare device looks like it should work fine with the Panasonic, Apple, and 5050 using HDMI. Not sure about Newcare to Integra via HDMI. However, the Newcare can extract audio via SPDIF or Toslink optical, either of which will be good with the Integra. If you defer the purchase of a new AVR, then this seems like a good way to go until you're ready for the new AVR. I think I'd just get a short Toslink optical to connect the Newcare to the Integra and not even try HDMI there - you're not trying to pass Atmos/DTS:X for now. Hopefully some others who've had experience with this Newcare device can offer their insights into how well it works. The Amazon reviews are mostly good.


----------



## tony123

NxNW said:


> Impressive thread - that's quite a long term project!
> 
> I personally would not buy a $50 gadget just because I couldn't bear to part with an older device that is worth maybe a hundred bucks. Apply the money to any modern (4K compatible) AVR instead. Route everything through the AVR and let it do the switching.
> 
> Maybe that's not what you wanted to hear, but you know it's the right way.
> 
> Maybe more pertinent to this thread, are you lighting up that 200" screen with an Epson 5050? Wow man.


I do know it's the right way... However, I wouldn't have done this project without being frugal. I'll have to continue to be. 

Yes, lighting up the same screen. I've been watching it for 10 years with a thousand lumens less and quite pleased. I've been listening to gear heads say it can't be done for a decade. I'll keep you all posted with my thoughts.


----------



## NxNW

Fair enough. That device ought to work then. Enjoy the extra lumens!


----------



## CycleGirl

Our refurbished 5050ub (ordered from Amazon about 3 weeks ago) arrived on Friday. We got it mounted on Saturday.

The lamp had zero hours on it as delivered. We had read that refurbished units receive a new lamp.

We were wowed right out of the box with the picture from the Epson. Then last night we rigged a side-by-side comparison with our old Optima UHD51A. The Epson is a big step up! We watched scenes from Prometheus, War for the Planet of the Apes and Ghost in the Shell. Black levels were deeper and colors were consistently more realistic on the Epson right out of the box. The image was a lot more pleasing. We currently have it set on "Bright Cinema" only having bumped the brightness down from 50 to 49 to get the black level to optimum.


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## dane10

sddawson said:


> My gut feel is that setting an Apple TV 4K to 4K SDR would output REC709, not BT2020. In that case, there should be no need to use Digital Cinema with its filter and loss of light. Have you found otherwise?


FWIW, my 5050UB shows BT 709 as the color format when I force SDR on the Apple TV 4K.
Dan


----------



## WynsWrld98

I apologize but I don't see a way to search this thread, I wanted to search for the word 'firmware' and find out if 1.04 is the latest version. Thanks.


----------



## dane10

WynsWrld98 said:


> I apologize but I don't see a way to search this thread, I wanted to search for the word 'firmware' and find out if 1.04 is the latest version. Thanks.


Maybe it's browser specific, but if you type firmware in the search box at the top of the page, you should see "in this thread", "in this forum", etc. below it so you can limit the search to the thread.
Dan


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## WynsWrld98

dane10 said:


> Maybe it's browser specific, but if you type firmware in the search box at the top of the page, you should see "in this thread", "in this forum", etc. below it so you can limit the search to the thread.
> Dan


I don't see it and I went into Advanced Search and still don't see it. Ugh!


----------



## NxNW

_While browsing this thread_, you click next to the magnifying glass where it says 'search community' and type something. After you finish typing 'firmware' you should see some options below that include 'in this thread' like dane10 said. Click on that to proceed. 

Shouldn't need to do advanced search i don't think..


----------



## biglen

WynsWrld98 said:


> I apologize but I don't see a way to search this thread, I wanted to search for the word 'firmware' and find out if 1.04 is the latest version. Thanks.


1.04 is the latest. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## dane10

WynsWrld98 said:


> I don't see it and I went into Advanced Search and still don't see it. Ugh!
> 
> View attachment 3262263


If I just click in the search box, I get a result similar to you:









But then if I type something I get:









Anyway, yes 1.04 was the newest firmware or at least it was when I downloaded it a couple weeks ago.
Dan


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## WynsWrld98

NxNW said:


> _While browsing this thread_, you click next to the magnifying glass where it says 'search community' and type something. After you finish typing 'firmware' you should see some options below that include 'in this thread' like dane10 said. Click on that to proceed.
> 
> Shouldn't need to do advanced search i don't think..


Thank you that worked, definitely not intuitive IMO.


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## tony123

Thanks for this conversation on searching. I couldn't figure it out either.

So, the projector is in, hanging on the ceiling and I've watched for about 8 hours now. Thankful that I seem to have avoided the REFURB nightmares that some have had (at least initially).

In the world of projectors, where we make long winded comments over small things, the differences going from an AE4000 to a 5050UB are substantial. Although it meets my expectations, it is fair to say they are on the low side of my expectations. As impressive as it is, I am left with a respect for the AE4000. For being a decade older and a $1k cheaper, it was doing an admirable job. I appreciate the improvements, but honestly, if we have friends over for movie night, I wonder if they would notice?

I am lost in the tech of it all. So many things have changed from 10 years ago. HDMI splitting, HDR, UHD, yada, yada, yada. I may not be seeing the potential of the projector yet, because I don't know how my settings should be? Everything is set as it was out of the box.

I've read a large portion of this thread and will continue to do so. What was confusing in research may become clearer with the projector in my hands. Hoping so.


----------



## biglen

tony123 said:


> Thanks for this conversation on searching. I couldn't figure it out either.
> 
> So, the projector is in, hanging on the ceiling and I've watched for about 8 hours now. Thankful that I seem to have avoided the REFURB nightmares that some have had (at least initially).
> 
> In the world of projectors, where we make long winded comments over small things, the differences going from an AE4000 to a 5050UB are substantial. Although it meets my expectations, it is fair to say they are on the low side of my expectations. As impressive as it is, I am left with a respect for the AE4000. For being a decade older and a $1k cheaper, it was doing an admirable job. I appreciate the improvements, but honestly, if we have friends over for movie night, I wonder if they would notice?
> 
> I am lost in the tech of it all. So many things have changed from 10 years ago. HDMI splitting, HDR, UHD, yada, yada, yada. I may not be seeing the potential of the projector yet, because I don't know how my settings should be? Everything is set as it was out of the box.
> 
> I've read a large portion of this thread and will continue to do so. What was confusing in research may become clearer with the projector in my hands. Hoping so.
> 
> View attachment 3262405


Something doesn’t sound right. I’d have to think the 5050 should definitely look noticeably better than a 10 year old projector. Maybe you do have a refurb nightmare, and just don’t realize it? When I originally set up my 5050, I didn’t have a screen yet, so I was shooting it on a white primered wall. I was blown away by the image, and hadn’t even touched the settings yet. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## tony123

biglen said:


> Something doesn’t sound right. I’d have to think the 5050 should definitely look noticeably better than a 10 year old projector. Maybe you do have a refurb nightmare, and just don’t realize it? When I originally set up my 5050, I didn’t have a screen yet, so I was shooting it on a white primered wall. I was blown away by the image, and hadn’t even touched the settings yet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It is difficult to express how something "looks". I'm fairly certain there are no problems with the projector. It is noticeably better. I'm satisfied with the upgrade but not blown away.


----------



## CycleGirl

tony123 said:


> {... } For being a decade older and a $1k cheaper, it was doing an admirable job. I appreciate the improvements, but honestly, if we have friends over for movie night, I wonder if they would notice?
> 
> I am lost in the tech of it all. So many things have changed from 10 years ago. HDMI splitting, HDR, UHD, yada, yada, yada. I may not be seeing the potential of the projector yet, because I don't know how my settings should be? Everything is set as it was out of the box.
> 
> {...}


The rule of diminishing returns runs pretty strong here. I had to set up the side-by-side test where we blocked half the image from each projector to really see the difference. Watching one image, then switching to the other just didn't work. Our minds can't remember an image, only the impression the image made on us. Once we did this, the differences became pretty clear.

The image on the Epson is spectacular, but like you, I am left thinking that for the money, our old projector (the Optima) did very well for us. We're going to keep it around for lower quality content like 1080p, TV, YouTube, Sports, etc.


----------



## AVRams

Quick question: I got a good offer for a JVC X570 with new lamp, price 2000 USD.
Those are getting quite old now, but which projector would you choose, the JVC or a new Epson 6050 for a few hundreds more?
My budget is 2500, and both of them is less than that. I can't imagine I can get something better for this price.
Gonna use it in my summerhouse.


----------



## PixelPusher15

AVRams said:


> Quick question: I got a good offer for a JVC X570 with new lamp, price 2000 USD.
> Those are getting quite old now, but which projector would you choose, the JVC or a new Epson 6050 for a few hundreds more?
> My budget is 2500, and both of them is less than that. I can't imagine I can get something better for this price.
> Gonna use it in my summerhouse.


For HDR the 6050 has better/easier to use tone mapping. It also has brighter modes (calibrated they won't be too far off). If you are just going to run SDR through it (or with a Panasonic player to tone map HDR to SDR) and there isn't a ton of ambient light then the JVC will be hands-down better IMO.


----------



## rk9flame

CycleGirl said:


> The rule of diminishing returns runs pretty strong here. I had to set up the side-by-side test where we blocked half the image from each projector to really see the difference. Watching one image, then switching to the other just didn't work. Our minds can't remember an image, only the impression the image made on us. Once we did this, the differences became pretty clear.
> 
> The image on the Epson is spectacular, but like you, I am left thinking that for the money, our old projector (the Optima) did very well for us. We're going to keep it around for lower quality content like 1080p, TV, YouTube, Sports, etc.


This for sure. You end up paying a lot for features that quite frankly aren't well implemented on a lot of new projectors. High framerate gaming and HDR processing are pretty hit and miss on projectors, so the gains in TVs doesn't tranfer to projectors. The biggest gains have been compatibility with newer hdmi tech and improved form factors and lens adjustments. tony123 seems to have had a pretty well regarded projector in terms of color accuracy and brightness, and that is something that just hasn't changed in 10 years. Once you hit color accuracy at a desired brightness/size of screen, there's really not much room to improve techwise at the 2k-3k price range.


----------



## koberlin1

sddawson said:


> My gut feel is that setting an Apple TV 4K to 4K SDR would output REC709, not BT2020. In that case, there should be no need to use Digital Cinema with its filter and loss of light. Have you found otherwise?


Honestly I just started meddling with HDR source playback on the 6050UB having assumed it was not an option after some quick attempts with the 6050 color modes at their factory settings when I first installed it. But after having calibrated Natural mode successfully (which I currently use for all formats of SDR playback) I thought I would give the Digital Cinema color mode a calibration stab to see if I could squeeze out some acceptable HDR performance. 

Was quite a bear to calibrate being as that the color filter that is applied in the Digital Cinema color mode does indeed knock down the light output so much I could not get it up to the 14 fL the calibration software recommended for proper calibrating. The color filter also seems to heavily saturate each of the primary colors to the point where I had to go to extreme measures to knock them down to an acceptable level via the Epson's CMS....had to boost the brightness of each primary color to 100% and the saturation level of most almost down to 0%.

The numbers post-cal showed vast improvement over factory settings (grayscale, gamma, color temp, etc). Real world testing using the Hobbit UHD BluRay disc (opening 45 minutes are sooo cool in Bilbo's shire abode but a torture test for PJs) showed better detail and a lot less red push over factory settings. Although in order to get the light level up to an acceptable viewing level I had to crank the Panasonics DP-UB9000's engaged HDR Optimiser's Dynamic Range Adjustment up (think I mis-quoted earlier saying I had the DP-UB820). 

Looked pretty darn good although I was craving more light. Didn't mess with the Epson's HDR slider, I will try that as well...was just afraid at adding too many enhancements defeating the purpose of a finely-tuned picture. Switched the Panny's tone mapped output from BT2020 HDR to BT2020 SDR and that seemed to help....or my eyes could have been playing tricks on me by that point!

Back to your question, with the AppleTV having no tone mapping, I imagine even post Digital Cinema calibration will result in a dark picture with ATV output set to HDR. Will try, including adjusting the 6050's HDR slider, and report back.

On that note, has anyone calibrated the 6050UB's Digital Cinema mode successfully for HDR playback? Takes some time calibrating and would rather not throw another 8 hours of my life away trying to tighten it up when I may only see a 1% improvement ( ;


----------



## Spoonsey

CycleGirl said:


> The rule of diminishing returns runs pretty strong here. I had to set up the side-by-side test where we blocked half the image from each projector to really see the difference. Watching one image, then switching to the other just didn't work. Our minds can't remember an image, only the impression the image made on us. Once we did this, the differences became pretty clear.
> 
> The image on the Epson is spectacular, but like you, I am left thinking that for the money, our old projector (the Optima) did very well for us. We're going to keep it around for lower quality content like 1080p, TV, YouTube, Sports, etc.


It's all in the eye of the beholder. I remember when I was choosing our projector with my two sons a few years back we 'blind test' compared the 1080p Epson TW9200 with 1080p options from both Sony and Optoma (can't remember the model numbers), both of which were supposedly 'better' than the TW9200. We unanimously agreed that the Epson had the nicest picture of the three projectors without knowing which projector was which until our AV guy revealed them to us. Have never regretted buying the TW9200 and it's still going strong with a new bulb and 120" screen. Good enough to stave off the 4K FOMO anyway.


----------



## tony123

CycleGirl said:


> The rule of diminishing returns runs pretty strong here. I had to set up the side-by-side test where we blocked half the image from each projector to really see the difference. Watching one image, then switching to the other just didn't work. Our minds can't remember an image, only the impression the image made on us. Once we did this, the differences became pretty clear.
> 
> The image on the Epson is spectacular, but like you, I am left thinking that for the money, our old projector (the Optima) did very well for us. We're going to keep it around for lower quality content like 1080p, TV, YouTube, Sports, etc.


I feel exactly as you stated. My original comments may read stronger than I intended. However, it says a lot that non-enthusiasts might not notice the difference. In fact, I'm going to test the theory and report back. We have some friends that have seen many movies in our theater and I will not announce the new projector.

I don't regret the upgrade. It is more than subtle, yet just barely enough to call significant. This is equally a comment about 4k than it is the particular projector. Considering that going 4k includes other expenses, like a new processor, new BR player, new cables. And, that the projector does such a beautiful job with 1080p upscaling.


----------



## pottscb

AVRams said:


> Quick question: I got a good offer for a JVC X570 with new lamp, price 2000 USD.
> Those are getting quite old now, but which projector would you choose, the JVC or a new Epson 6050 for a few hundreds more?
> My budget is 2500, and both of them is less than that. I can't imagine I can get something better for this price.
> Gonna use it in my summerhouse.


Keep an eye on AVS classifieds as you could snag a JVC RS520/540 (X770/790) for the same money which would do better in an all black room (if you have that). The Epson will give serious ability to be used in a non-dark environment if that’s your desire.


----------



## WynsWrld98

pottscb said:


> Keep an eye on AVS classifieds as you could snag a JVC RS520/540 (X770/790) for the same money which would do better in an all black room (if you have that). The Epson will give serious ability to be used in a non-dark environment if that’s your desire.


Caveat emptor Epson and others only honor warranties for the original owner which sucks.


----------



## PixelPusher15

koberlin1 said:


> Honestly I just started meddling with HDR source playback on the 6050UB having assumed it was not an option after some quick attempts with the 6050 color modes at their factory settings when I first installed it. But after having calibrated Natural mode successfully (which I currently use for all formats of SDR playback) I thought I would give the Digital Cinema color mode a calibration stab to see if I could squeeze out some acceptable HDR performance.
> 
> Was quite a bear to calibrate being as that the color filter that is applied in the Digital Cinema color mode does indeed knock down the light output so much I could not get it up to the 14 fL the calibration software recommended for proper calibrating. The color filter also seems to heavily saturate each of the primary colors to the point where I had to go to extreme measures to knock them down to an acceptable level via the Epson's CMS....had to boost the brightness of each primary color to 100% and the saturation level of most almost down to 0%.
> 
> The numbers post-cal showed vast improvement over factory settings (grayscale, gamma, color temp, etc). Real world testing using the Hobbit UHD BluRay disc (opening 45 minutes are sooo cool in Bilbo's shire abode but a torture test for PJs) showed better detail and a lot less red push over factory settings. Although in order to get the light level up to an acceptable viewing level I had to crank the Panasonics DP-UB9000's engaged HDR Optimiser's Dynamic Range Adjustment up (think I mis-quoted earlier saying I had the DP-UB820).
> 
> Looked pretty darn good although I was craving more light. Didn't mess with the Epson's HDR slider, I will try that as well...was just afraid at adding too many enhancements defeating the purpose of a finely-tuned picture. Switched the Panny's tone mapped output from BT2020 HDR to BT2020 SDR and that seemed to help....or my eyes could have been playing tricks on me by that point!
> 
> Back to your question, with the AppleTV having no tone mapping, I imagine even post Digital Cinema calibration will result in a dark picture with ATV output set to HDR. Will try, including adjusting the 6050's HDR slider, and report back.
> 
> On that note, has anyone calibrated the 6050UB's Digital Cinema mode successfully for HDR playback? Takes some time calibrating and would rather not throw another 8 hours of my life away trying to tighten it up when I may only see a 1% improvement ( ;


Something isn't right here. When I used HCFR to calibrate my 5050 in Digital Cinema it was much easier that what you described. Are you using 75% patterns? 

I calibrated to a custom 1000 nit curve for HDR as well. Not just a flat gamma. This helped a lot with HDR but it is a pain in the butt to get all the variables right. I did it on Digital Cinema as well and I only got 55 nits. I preferred the deeper contrast when using Natural and throttling the iris down to around 65 nits.


----------



## Orwellflash

Has anyone noticed sparkling in bright white scenes, like snow or white walls. It is like the pixels are flashing or shimmering. I have a Cima screen with little or no gain, and I have tried setting adjustments, but haven't been able to reduce it. I get it regardless of source--streaming or disc. I don't remember having this problem with my 5030 or the Sharp DLP before it.


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## Tsunamijhoe

Orwellflash said:


> Has anyone noticed sparkling in bright white scenes, like snow or white walls. It is like the pixels are flashing or shimmering. I have a Cima screen with little or no gain, and I have tried setting adjustments, but haven't been able to reduce it. I get it regardless of source--streaming or disc. I don't remember having this problem with my 5030 or the Sharp DLP before it.


Must be something on your end. I have a cima neve with a 6050 and have no problem whatsoever.


----------



## fredworld

Orwellflash said:


> Has anyone noticed sparkling in bright white scenes, like snow or white walls. It is like the pixels are flashing or shimmering. I have a Cima screen with little or no gain, and I have tried setting adjustments, but haven't been able to reduce it. I get it regardless of source--streaming or disc. I don't remember having this problem with my 5030 or the Sharp DLP before it.


Have you tried different source equipment? Disc, streaming, etc.? Tried different cable? Or of different length? Tried direct connection of source to PJ?


----------



## Orwellflash

fredworld said:


> Have you tried different source equipment? Disc, streaming, etc.? Tried different cable? Or of different length? Tried direct connection of source to PJ?


 Good ideas. Disc/streaming doesn't change it. I haven't experimented with cables or direct source because the image otherwise is pristine, but could be the problem. Thanks


----------



## Orwellflash

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Must be something on your end. I have a cima neve with a 6050 and have no problem whatsoever.


If the cables are OK, I will post my settings and would appreciate it if you would tell me if they are different from yours.


----------



## biglen

Orwellflash said:


> If the cables are OK, I will post my settings and would appreciate it if you would tell me if they are different from yours.


My guess would be a bad cable. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## koberlin1

PixelPusher15 said:


> Something isn't right here. When I used HCFR to calibrate my 5050 in Digital Cinema it was much easier that what you described. Are you using 75% patterns?
> 
> I calibrated to a custom 1000 nit curve for HDR as well. Not just a flat gamma. This helped a lot with HDR but it is a pain in the butt to get all the variables right. I did it on Digital Cinema as well and I only got 55 nits. I preferred the deeper contrast when using Natural and throttling the iris down to around 65 nits.


Glad to hear you say that


PixelPusher15 said:


> Something isn't right here. When I used HCFR to calibrate my 5050 in Digital Cinema it was much easier that what you described. Are you using 75% patterns?
> 
> I calibrated to a custom 1000 nit curve for HDR as well. Not just a flat gamma. This helped a lot with HDR but it is a pain in the butt to get all the variables right. I did it on Digital Cinema as well and I only got 55 nits. I preferred the deeper contrast when using Natural and throttling the iris down to around 65 nits.


 I was using 100% patterns for certain tweaks and 75% for others following the guide that I was using for ChromaPure. I did read after that I should consider going with HDR BT.2020 75% patterns so gonna revisit my Digital Cinema mode cal with that and will report back. 

I did A-B my Natural vs. Digital Cinema calibrated color modes using the aformentioned Hobbit UHD BluRay on my DP-UB9000 outputting a tone-mapped signal at BT.2020 HDR (not SDR...did not really notice a diff going between the two) and preferred Digital Cinema. However switched over to the super high NIT The Meg UHD BluRay and it looked horrible...whites totally washed out...increased the Epson's HDR slider and brought it back to acceptable/good. 

So it varies from movie to movie...even with using the panny's DTM set to Basic Luminance projector which maps all material to 350 NIT.

ATV does indeed output in the BT.709 color space with HDR engaged so assume using my calibrated Natural mode would be the appropriate choice, will test soon.


----------



## PixelPusher15

koberlin1 said:


> Glad to hear you say that
> 
> I was using 100% patterns for certain tweaks and 75% for others following the guide that I was using for ChromaPure. I did read after that I should consider going with HDR BT.2020 75% patterns so gonna revisit my Digital Cinema mode cal with that and will report back.
> 
> I did A-B my Natural vs. Digital Cinema calibrated color modes using the aformentioned Hobbit UHD BluRay on my DP-UB9000 outputting a tone-mapped signal at BT.2020 HDR (not SDR...did not really notice a diff going between the two) and preferred Digital Cinema. However switched over to the super high NIT The Meg UHD BluRay and it looked horrible...whites totally washed out...increased the Epson's HDR slider and brought it back to acceptable/good.
> 
> So it varies from movie to movie...even with using the panny's DTM set to Basic Luminance projector which maps all material to 350 NIT.
> 
> ATV does indeed output in the BT.709 color space with HDR engaged so assume using my calibrated Natural mode would be the appropriate choice, will test soon.


Try the Meg with the panny outputting SDR. I found that it is much more consistent between movies. For HDR content that's mastered at 1000 nits, the Epson slider is fine because you won't touch it. It's when there are big changes between content that the panasonic slider really does well. Also, dark content. If you have something like Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Pt2 then put that on and compare. 

The ATV4K should be pushing out BT2020. Do you have match range on?


----------



## koberlin1

PixelPusher15 said:


> Try the Meg with the panny outputting SDR. I found that it is much more consistent between movies. For HDR content that's mastered at 1000 nits, the Epson slider is fine because you won't touch it. It's when there are big changes between content that the panasonic slider really does well. Also, dark content. If you have something like Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Pt2 then put that on and compare.
> 
> The ATV4K should be pushing out BT2020. Do you have match range on?


Thanks PP! Will def give a shot. So you prefer the DP-UB9000 outputting BT.2020 SDR for everything (DVD, BluRay, UHD BluRay)? Was hoping with Digital Cinema mode calibrated I could enjoy HDR as HDR. But don't think I have the light output for such, especially with my low gain screen. Did not consider using any of the streaming video features on the Panny either to try and take advantage of its tone mapping, you doing that? Just like the intuitive nature of the AppleTV for that stuff.

You are correct, watched Loki on Disney+ (HDR + Atmos) on AppleTV with ATV set to 4K HDR and it does indeed output at BT.2020. Unfortunately I could not get the image to an acceptable light level with dark details getting lost. Tried turning down the Epson HDR slider but ended up washing things out so switched AppleTV back to SDR (BT.709) and threw Epson back into its calibrated Natural Mode and was content. Thinking my efforts for HDR reproduction are futile.


----------



## PixelPusher15

koberlin1 said:


> Thanks PP! Will def give a shot. So you prefer the DP-UB9000 outputting BT.2020 SDR for everything (DVD, BluRay, UHD BluRay)? Was hoping with Digital Cinema mode calibrated I could enjoy HDR as HDR. But don't think I have the light output for such, especially with my low gain screen. Did not consider using any of the streaming video features on the Panny either to try and take advantage of its tone mapping, you doing that? Just like the intuitive nature of the AppleTV for that stuff.
> 
> You are correct, watched Loki on Disney+ (HDR + Atmos) on AppleTV with ATV set to 4K HDR and it does indeed output at BT.2020. Unfortunately I could not get the image to an acceptable light level with dark details getting lost. Tried turning down the Epson HDR slider but ended up washing things out so switched AppleTV back to SDR (BT.709) and threw Epson back into its calibrated Natural Mode and was content. Thinking my efforts for HDR reproduction are futile.


You are running into what many users have run into.

Man, I really need to setup my 5050 and grab photos of my HDR settings and then also show my process for my HDR calibration. I found that after I calibrated HDR in HCFR that it was really quite good. Digital Cinema was just too dark for my tastes though, even with a good calibration

As for the Pansonic, I only watched HDR stuff in it. So I don't even know what happens when you put in a SDR blu ray and have it set to SDR2020. I wouldn't think it would convert it to BT2020 and instead would just output the native color space of the content.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> You are running into what many users have run into.
> 
> Man, I really need to setup my 5050 and grab photos of my HDR settings and then also show my process for my HDR calibration. I found that after I calibrated HDR in HCFR that it was really quite good. Digital Cinema was just too dark for my tastes though, even with a good calibration
> 
> As for the Pansonic, I only watched HDR stuff in it. So I don't even know what happens when you put in a SDR blu ray and have it set to SDR2020. I wouldn't think it would convert it to BT2020 and instead would just output the native color space of the content.


I found that Digital Cinema was not only dark, but the colors were dull too, compared to Natural and Bright Cinema. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> I found that Digital Cinema was not only dark, but the colors were dull too, compared to Natural and Bright Cinema.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's what lack of brightness will do. The colors probably measured better in DC but since they're dim they look dull.


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## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> That's what lack of brightness will do. The colors probably measured better in DC but since they're dim they look dull.


That was with a professional calibration by Kevin Miller, who is an Epson guy. He wasn’t happy with Digital Cinema either, but that was with him calibrating with a $10k scope, so I’d hope it was accurate. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jaredmwright

koberlin1 said:


> Thanks PP! Will def give a shot. So you prefer the DP-UB9000 outputting BT.2020 SDR for everything (DVD, BluRay, UHD BluRay)? Was hoping with Digital Cinema mode calibrated I could enjoy HDR as HDR. But don't think I have the light output for such, especially with my low gain screen. Did not consider using any of the streaming video features on the Panny either to try and take advantage of its tone mapping, you doing that? Just like the intuitive nature of the AppleTV for that stuff.
> 
> You are correct, watched Loki on Disney+ (HDR + Atmos) on AppleTV with ATV set to 4K HDR and it does indeed output at BT.2020. Unfortunately I could not get the image to an acceptable light level with dark details getting lost. Tried turning down the Epson HDR slider but ended up washing things out so switched AppleTV back to SDR (BT.709) and threw Epson back into its calibrated Natural Mode and was content. Thinking my efforts for HDR reproduction are futile.


This is why some people invest in a video processor. It is a constant battle that varies from source, content provider (Disney+, Netflix, Blu-ray and different discs, etc...) and HDR is not a set and forget it on the Epson projectors vs JVC built in tone mapping that allows for more hands off use. Maybe in the future Epson models will have better built in processing for HDR content, but not currently. I was never content with the built in capability and considered upgrading for Tone Mapping HDR alone and was about to give up until I found the option below. 

VideoProcessor is a good starting point to learn more and provide advanced features and options to make maximize your current setup.

I currently run my 6050ub in Natural mode with almost 1000hrs on the lamp vs Digital Cinema when it was newer which I originally started with. I find I get much more color pop for HDR with my PC performing the video processing in Natural mode. Light controlled room into a 175" 1.0 gain screen.


----------



## tony123

Roughly a week ago, I reported my initial impressions, which came across as mildly impressed in comparing the 5050 to my 10 year old Panasonic. Last night was our first full length movie, and I'm going to adjust my comments. I am becoming more and more impressed. In my highly technical ways, I move from mildly impressed to a solid impressed, with no qualifications. So excited that I have to share an image! This is my son (6'6") next to 168" wide screen. Plenty of light for the size!


----------



## biglen

tony123 said:


> Roughly a week ago, I reported my initial impressions, which came across as mildly impressed in comparing the 5050 to my 10 year old Panasonic. Last night was our first full length movie, and I'm going to adjust my comments. I am becoming more and more impressed. In my highly technical ways, I move from mildly impressed to a solid impressed, with no qualifications. So excited that I have to share an image! This is my son (6'6") next to 168" wide screen. Plenty of light for the size!
> View attachment 3263620


If you really want to take the projector to the next level, build a HTPC and use MadVR to tone map. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## NxNW

Just to keep the conversation moving, I'm pretty well done with measuring this thing's response to SDR signals (and with 100 hours on the lamp I'm pretty satisfied it's not going to change much from here) and about the only things I would change on my unit would be decreasing low-end red, changing the hue of magenta slightly, and of course the same gamma adjustment everyone uses. 

With elaborate combination of corrections I could make my measurements incredibly accurate, like all grayscale and color checker measures under 2 dE (except maybe 100% green and blue). But that level of precision is probably illusory, my equipment is not that good, and anyway in my experience it's not worth manipulating the display's native response too much. And for this device there is absolutely NO REASON to go through the time and trouble of a 3D LUT.

One thing I was intrigued to note was the increase in red and green when running the lamp in high. It's barely noticeable to the human eye and honestly if all it does is move the white point a bit it's not worth correcting. But if you are really insistent on having it calibrated to a perfect D65 in all modes, you may need to assign different settings to different memory slots to allow for this shift.

This effect is much more pronounced in Cinema or Digital Cinema (which I wouldn't use for Rec709 material but the white balance is applicable to HDR too so I gave it a look) : many will want to use high lamp in these modes to offset the reduction in light caused by the filter. The white point in Cinema is already off a bit and goes further in that direction if you use the lamp in high. Digital Cinema is off as well, but in a different direction: for this mode using high lamp _helps_ move the white point in the correct direction. Maybe this is why reviewers use Digital Cinema as their starting point for HDR calibrations (I didn't see much change in the display's response in other areas, so I think it's really about white point).

Bottom line, for SDR, if you don't have a meter, you're not missing anything, don't touch the defaults except if you have a good light-controlled viewing environment, use gamma -2.


----------



## PixelPusher15

NxNW said:


> Just to keep the conversation moving, I'm pretty well done with measuring this thing's response to SDR signals (*and with 100 hours on the lamp I'm pretty satisfied it's not going to change much from here) *and about the only things I would change on my unit would be decreasing low-end red, changing the hue of magenta slightly, and of course the same gamma adjustment everyone uses.
> 
> With elaborate combination of corrections I could make my measurements incredibly accurate, like all grayscale and color checker measures under 2 dE (except maybe 100% green and blue). But that level of precision is probably illusory, my equipment is not that good, and anyway in my experience it's not worth manipulating the display's native response too much. And for this device there is absolutely NO REASON to go through the time and trouble of a 3D LUT.
> 
> One thing I was intrigued to note was the increase in red and green when running the lamp in high. It's barely noticeable to the human eye and honestly if all it does is move the white point a bit it's not worth correcting. But if you are really insistent on having it calibrated to a perfect D65 in all modes, you may need to assign different settings to different memory slots to allow for this shift.
> 
> This effect is much more pronounced in Cinema or Digital Cinema (which I wouldn't use for Rec709 material but the white balance is applicable to HDR too so I gave it a look) : many will want to use high lamp in these modes to offset the reduction in light caused by the filter. The white point in Cinema is already off a bit and goes further in that direction if you use the lamp in high. Digital Cinema is off as well, but in a different direction: for this mode using high lamp _helps_ move the white point in the correct direction. Maybe this is why reviewers use Digital Cinema as their starting point for HDR calibrations (I didn't see much change in the display's response in other areas, so I think it's really about white point).
> 
> Bottom line, for SDR, if you don't have a meter, you're not missing anything, don't touch the defaults except if you have a good light-controlled viewing environment, use gamma -2.


You might want to check back in 100 hours or so. I calibrated at around 75 hours and then around 250 I noticed things started to really not look good. My gamma had drifted a lot. At first, I had to use a custom gamma, and a substantial one to get to 2.4. After 250 hours setting it to -2 was pretty close to 2.4.


----------



## coolhand

I've had my PJ for a few months now and am quite happy with it with the exception of the 3D. My previous few projectors were mediocre DLP PJs. I am MASSIVELY disappointed in the 3d so far and before this PJ I was a HUGE fan of 3d. Now maybe its the new glasses I got. But I think (read: hope) I have settings wrong or something because the background is always massively out of focus with 2 identical images. 

Am I supposed to make adjustments somehow? Where would they be?

TIA!


----------



## NxNW

coolhand said:


> the background is always massively out of focus with 2 identical images.


Can you elaborate on this? Not clear what you are experiencing. 



PixelPusher15 said:


> You might want to check back in 100 hours or so.


Absolutely. I was surprised mine didn't change a lot during the first 100 hours. I replaced the lamp on a DLP once and it changed at least 5 dE in the first 50 hours. I felt like i could see it change in real time : )


----------



## fredworld

coolhand said:


> I've had my PJ for a few months now and am quite happy with it with the exception of the 3D. My previous few projectors were mediocre DLP PJs. I am MASSIVELY disappointed in the 3d so far and before this PJ I was a HUGE fan of 3d. Now maybe its the new glasses I got. But I think (read: hope) I have settings wrong or something because the background is always massively out of focus with 2 identical images.
> 
> Am I supposed to make adjustments somehow? Where would they be?
> 
> TIA!


Not sure about the "massively out of focus" comment, unless you're experiencing ghosting but the immediate suggestions that come to me are to check your panel alignment and the 3D Setup menu in SETTINGS.
EDIT: Sorry, that might be in the Signal menu.


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## Orwellflash

fredworld said:


> Have you tried different source equipment? Disc, streaming, etc.? Tried different cable? Or of different length? Tried direct connection of source to PJ?


I'm getting image noise, most apparent with white scenes, from my 5050. I have now changed cables, used shorter cables, connected direct to PJ (bypassing AVR), checked disc vs streaming and different source equipment--none of those are implicated. The one lead I have is that it only happens with 2K sources, not 4K. Moreover, 4K sources with my 2K settings are still noise free. Any ideas? I am wondering if 4K doubling is eliminating it but 2K signal, disabling 4K enhancement, is causing the noise for some reason.


----------



## fredworld

Orwellflash said:


> I'm getting image noise, most apparent with white scenes, from my 5050. I have now changed cables, used shorter cables, connected direct to PJ (bypassing AVR), checked disc vs streaming and different source equipment--none of those are implicated. The one lead I have is that it only happens with 2K sources, not 4K. Moreover, 4K sources with my 2K settings are still noise free. Any ideas? I am wondering if 4K doubling is eliminating it but 2K signal, disabling 4K enhancement, is causing the noise for some reason.


Well, my next step would be to contact *Epson Support*. They've been very helpful whenever I needed to contact them.


----------



## Orwellflash

fredworld said:


> Well, my next step would be to contact *Epson Support*. They've been very helpful whenever I needed to contact them.


Yeah, sigh, I really hope they don't want me to ship it to them. Have you been able to talk with a technician?


----------



## rekbones

Orwellflash said:


> I'm getting image noise, most apparent with white scenes, from my 5050. I have now changed cables, used shorter cables, connected direct to PJ (bypassing AVR), checked disc vs streaming and different source equipment--none of those are implicated. The one lead I have is that it only happens with 2K sources, not 4K. Moreover, 4K sources with my 2K settings are still noise free. Any ideas? I am wondering if 4K doubling is eliminating it but 2K signal, disabling 4K enhancement, is causing the noise for some reason.


Is it possible what your describing as noise is in reality SDE. How close do you sit from what size screen and how's your eyesight? 1080p LCD panels do have a fair amount of SDE and the 4K shift masks it fairly well. Some people are very bothered by it.


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## Orwellflash

rekbones said:


> Is it possible what your describing as noise is in reality SDE. How close do you sit from what size screen and how's your eyesight? 1080p LCD panels do have a fair amount of SDE and the 4K shift masks it fairly well. Some people are very bothered by it.


No, it is like grainy shimmer, not SDE, and I have looked at it from 15ft sitting distance of 106" screen and standing at the screen. It looks like old black and white TV. It shows most clearly in white fields, like snow or walls. The fact that it disappears with 4K signals is very strange.


----------



## jaredmwright

Orwellflash said:


> No, it is like grainy shimmer, not SDE, and I have looked at it from 15ft sitting distance of 106" screen and standing at the screen. It looks like old black and white TV. It shows most clearly in white fields, like snow or walls. The fact that it disappears with 4K signals is very strange.


You tried the other HDMI input on the Epson directly connected from a source exhibiting this issue?


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## Orwellflash

jaredmwright said:


> You tried the other HDMI input on the Epson directly connected from a source exhibiting this issue?


That I haven't tried. Good idea. Thanks. I have just been using HDMI 1 on the Epson. Seems like the 4K would be degraded too, but who knows until I try.


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## jaredmwright

Orwellflash said:


> That I haven't tried. Good idea. Thanks. I have just been using HDMI 1 on the Epson


Also try connecting directly without any receiver or HDMI switch/matrix in between. Sounds cable related to me.


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## biglen

Orwellflash said:


> That I haven't tried. Good idea. Thanks. I have just been using HDMI 1 on the Epson. Seems like the 4K would be degraded too, but who knows until I try.


Try HDMI 2. I had some weird issues with HDMI 1 on my 5050. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Orwellflash

jaredmwright said:


> Also try connecting directly without any receiver or HDMI switch/matrix in between. Sounds cable related to me.


Yeah, I really thought it would be a cable, but I have tried 5 different cables, 3 of which are brand new and 10, 6, and 3 ft. 3 different brands too. I have gone direct from Panasonic 4K player to
projector--still get the shimmer.


----------



## Orwellflash

biglen said:


> Try HDMI 2. I had some weird issues with HDMI 1 on my 5050.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok, that gives me hope! Thanks.


----------



## Orwellflash

I'm going to try my streamer directly in to HDMI 2 also.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Orwellflash said:


> Yeah, I really thought it would be a cable, but I have tried 5 different cables, 3 of which are brand new and 10, 6, and 3 ft. 3 different brands too. I have gone direct from Panasonic 4K player to
> projector--still get the shimmer.


Call Epson...


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## Orwellflash

biglen said:


> Try HDMI 2. I had some weird issues with HDMI 1 on my 5050.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


HDMI 2 doesn't change it. I will give Epson a call.


----------



## jaredmwright

Orwellflash said:


> HDMI 2 doesn't change it. I will give Epson a call.


You've done the right troubleshooting steps, sounds like something else causing the issue. Good luck getting it resolved one way or another and report back. These really are great when working properly, I hope you get it working quickly to enjoy.


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## Orwellflash

jaredmwright said:


> Also try connecting directly without any receiver or HDMI switch/matrix in between. Sounds cable related to me.


I tried it, but that didn't fix it. Perhaps significantly, I noticed that 2K sources from HBO Max are flagged Rec. 2020, 12 bit 4:2:0, so Epson activates 4K enhancement, but the problem nevertheless persists in this mode.


----------



## Orwellflash

jaredmwright said:


> You've done the right troubleshooting steps, sounds like something else causing the issue. Good luck getting it resolved one way or another and report back. These really are great when working properly, I hope you get it working quickly to enjoy.


Thanks for the suggestions. I agree, when the projector is working properly, the image is great!


----------



## fredworld

Orwellflash said:


> Yeah, sigh, I really hope they don't want me to ship it to them. Have you been able to talk with a technician?


Yes, but it's been quite a while since I last dealt with Support, at least two years. I recall using their contact form and the reply usually had a name and phone number.


----------



## Orwellflash

OK, thanks, I'll use the contact form


----------



## Orwellflash

fredworld said:


> Yes, but it's been quite a while since I last dealt with Support, at least two years. I recall using their contact form and the reply usually had a name and phone number.


OK, thanks


----------



## Alaric

NxNW said:


> And for this device there is absolutely NO REASON to go through the time and trouble of a 3D LUT.


I have an old eecolor box which was almost essential for my old projector and it's MEH cms. It's only HDMI 1.3 so SDR only and I had a Panasonic BDT700 bluray player hooked up and my older HDMI lead into port2 on the PJ and the 2nd HDMI to audio out to my amp.
I had all the kit, so I gave it a go and a ~700 patch run on DisplayCal gave a DE of 0.33 and max of 1.1 - Overkill TOTALLY, but 

And Yeah SDR on this PJ is pretty awesome, even out the box!


----------



## DavidK442

Orwellflash said:


> No, it is like grainy shimmer, not SDE, and I have looked at it from 15ft sitting distance of 106" screen and standing at the screen. It looks like old black and white TV. It shows most clearly in white fields, like snow or walls. The fact that it disappears with 4K signals is very strange.


Using a woven AT screen? Moire perhaps?


----------



## NxNW

I have a 6050. 

I believe that mounting the projector very close to the screen:

increases brightness
decreases contrast
hurts optics

(Further I believe that extreme zoom is less harmful than extreme lens shift with respect to optical image quality.)

Am I wrong?

I have not mounted it on the ceiling yet. I have some flexibility as to mounting location. 

I'm getting plenty of light even off my 0.6 gain 106-inch-wide screen so I feel like I can go a ways further than the minimum distance. Basically I'm less concerned about optimizing raw brightness and I'm now turning my attention to getting the sharpest image.

I'm going to go for the middle of the zoom range.

So far during testing the lens has looked pretty sharp as advertised, but if you look hard you can see fringing due to chromatic aberration here and there. Panel alignment seems good. (There _is_ a weird cyan cast to certain diagonals (see the thread I started about this for photos here) that I haven't figured out yet.)

I experimented with different amounts of zoom and definitely noticed some settings are sharper than others. 

I did all the comparisons with the lens in its 'home' position (to undo all your lens shift settings, hold down the "lens" button on the remote for three seconds). I haven't investigated the effect of lens shift. (When I finally mount it, it will be about 20" above the center of the screen, so I will definitely be using vertical lens shift.)

I'm about to tear up my ceiling and run some conduit to the new mounting location. This will require repairing the drywall ceiling material and repainting after the install, so I don't want to find out later I've chosen the wrong location.

Pretty sure 99% of people either have very limited options (eg shelf on back wall) or just want the brightest possible image.

Anyone have any experience with choosing a location based on sharpness?


----------



## PixelPusher15

NxNW said:


> I have a 6050.
> 
> I believe that mounting the projector very close to the screen:
> 
> increases brightness
> decreases contrast
> hurts optics
> 
> (Further I believe that extreme zoom is less harmful than extreme lens shift with respect to optical image quality.)
> 
> Am I wrong?
> 
> I have not mounted it on the ceiling yet. I have some flexibility as to mounting location.
> 
> I'm getting plenty of light even off my 0.6 gain 106-inch-wide screen so I feel like I can go a ways further than the minimum distance. Basically I'm less concerned about optimizing raw brightness and I'm now turning my attention to getting the sharpest image.
> 
> I'm going to go for the middle of the zoom range.
> 
> So far during testing the lens has looked pretty sharp as advertised, but if you look hard you can see fringing due to chromatic aberration here and there. Panel alignment seems good. (There _is_ a weird cyan cast to certain diagonals (see the thread I started about this for photos here) that I haven't figured out yet.)
> 
> I experimented with different amounts of zoom and definitely noticed some settings are sharper than others.
> 
> I did all the comparisons with the lens in its 'home' position (to undo all your lens shift settings, hold down the "lens" button on the remote for three seconds). I haven't investigated the effect of lens shift. (When I finally mount it, it will be about 20" above the center of the screen, so I will definitely be using vertical lens shift.)
> 
> I'm about to tear up my ceiling and run some conduit to the new mounting location. This will require repairing the drywall ceiling material and repainting after the install, so I don't want to find out later I've chosen the wrong location.
> 
> Pretty sure 99% of people either have very limited options (eg shelf on back wall) or just want the brightest possible image.
> 
> Anyone have any experience with choosing a location based on sharpness?


Mounting it further away and with minimal lens shift will result in the best image, optics-wise. With the 5050/6050, moving it closer doesn't really hurt contrast because it will be brighter and you can use more of the manual iris. 

Each lens is a bit different so it's going to be up to your own experimentation to find what position is best for your unit.


----------



## NxNW

Moving on: watched some 3D last night. I love this projector. 

I ordered stock Epson glasses off eBay. They took a couple weeks to arrive from China. Batteries seem fine. No drama.

Looking forward to "calibrating" 3D. It's always interesting to measure how much and what color of light actually passes through the lenses..


----------



## Bkuehl20

Does anyone know why there would be a 5 second delay with my video showing via my projector (Epson 6050ub) when I try to watch anything via my Apple TV. The audio starts immediately but there is like a 5 second delay with the video. It never used to do this.

On a separate note, from time to time my projector seems to get stuck in warmup mode when turning it on and nothing shows up. Worst yet, it can be turned off by pressing the buttons on the projector or trying to turn it off via the remote. The only option is to unplug it when this happens. My projector is still under warranty but it’s just over a year old and Epson will only replace it with a refurbished one but I’m concerned with these issues as there has even been times where have the screen was green.


----------



## fredworld

Bkuehl20 said:


> Does anyone know why there would be a 5 second delay with my video showing via my projector (Epson 6050ub) when I try to watch anything via my Apple TV. The audio starts immediately but there is like a 5 second delay with the video. It never used to do this.
> 
> On a separate note, from time to time my projector seems to get stuck in warmup mode when turning it on and nothing shows up. Worst yet, it can be turned off by pressing the buttons on the projector or trying to turn it off via the remote. The only option is to unplug it when this happens. My projector is still under warranty but it’s just over a year old and Epson will only replace it with a refurbished one but I’m concerned with these issues as there has even been times where have the screen was green.


The 5 second delay is normal. It's a HDMI handshake. Mine is about 10 seconds, sometimes longer. As for the green, it could be the panel warming up OR, maybe more likely, it's the HDMI cable. Unplug and reseat the cable being sure it's secure in its port. If that doesn't help then try another cable.
Cable length might be an issue, too, especially if it's over 15' and not an active cable. 
Alternatively, it won't hurt to contact *Epson Support* about the delay and the green issue if you can't sort them out with my suggestions. Others will likely have more to offer.
If you need cable suggestions, post back.


----------



## hms17B

Bkuehl20 said:


> Does anyone know why there would be a 5 second delay with my video showing via my projector (Epson 6050ub) when I try to watch anything via my Apple TV. The audio starts immediately but there is like a 5 second delay with the video. It never used to do this.
> 
> On a separate note, from time to time my projector seems to get stuck in warmup mode when turning it on and nothing shows up. Worst yet, it can be turned off by pressing the buttons on the projector or trying to turn it off via the remote. The only option is to unplug it when this happens. My projector is still under warranty but it’s just over a year old and Epson will only replace it with a refurbished one but I’m concerned with these issues as there has even been times where have the screen was green.


Does the video go thru an AVR? I have a 5050 and a Denon AVR, and sometimes the screen is pink or green or tinted such. Seems to be the AVR, not the 5050. If I switch the 5050 to another of its inputs and then back it's OK after that.


----------



## mon2479

Bkuehl20 said:


> Does anyone know why there would be a 5 second delay with my video showing via my projector (Epson 6050ub) when I try to watch anything via my Apple TV. The audio starts immediately but there is like a 5 second delay with the video. It never used to do this.
> 
> On a separate note, from time to time my projector seems to get stuck in warmup mode when turning it on and nothing shows up. Worst yet, it can be turned off by pressing the buttons on the projector or trying to turn it off via the remote. The only option is to unplug it when this happens. My projector is still under warranty but it’s just over a year old and Epson will only replace it with a refurbished one but I’m concerned with these issues as there has even been times where have the screen was green.


I as well get a delay of a few seconds, mainly with HDR. Also when I have not turned on my 5050 in a while, I've noticed that as soon as i turn it on, it immediately goes into cool down mode for a while like it's trying to get rid of settled dest?.....IDK. Then there are rare times when it goes from cool down mode to closing the lense shutter with the fan still going hard. The flashing code I get pertains to the bulb, i will unplug the 5050, plug it back in and it will turn on just fine......#headscratcher


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Bkuehl20 said:


> Does anyone know why there would be a 5 second delay with my video showing via my projector (Epson 6050ub) when I try to watch anything via my Apple TV. The audio starts immediately but there is like a 5 second delay with the video. It never used to do this.
> 
> On a separate note, from time to time my projector seems to get stuck in warmup mode when turning it on and nothing shows up. Worst yet, it can be turned off by pressing the buttons on the projector or trying to turn it off via the remote. The only option is to unplug it when this happens. My projector is still under warranty but it’s just over a year old and Epson will only replace it with a refurbished one but I’m concerned with these issues as there has even been times where have the screen was green.


Everything you mention is normal behaviour.. The delay is due to hdmi handshake and matching framerate, and i think you might actually be doing the projector a disservice by unhooking it when it starts with the fans on high and no image, this is also normal behaviour,and like others have suspected it might be related to dust build up, but no one actually knows why the projector does this..
Mine does the same on occasion,and image comes on once is has done what it is supposed to do. It only takes around 30 seconds though.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> The 5 second delay is normal. It's a HDMI handshake. Mine is about 10 seconds, sometimes longer. As for the green, it could be the panel warming up OR, maybe more likely, it's the HDMI cable. Unplug and reseat the cable being sure it's secure in its port. If that doesn't help then try another cable.
> Cable length might be an issue, too, especially if it's over 15' and not an active cable.
> Alternatively, it won't hurt to contact *Epson Support* about the delay and the green issue if you can't sort them out with my suggestions. Others will likely have more to offer.
> If you need cable suggestions, post back.


I had the 5-10 second delay when using my Shield, but when I started using MadVR with my 5050, the video and audio start right up immediately together. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> I had the 5-10 second delay when using my Shield, but when I started using MadVR with my 5050, the video and audio start right up immediately together.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup. I'm aware of MadVr. Looks like an awesome device but at $7k even with its enhanced image capabilities, my patience is more affordable.😁


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Yup. I'm aware of MadVr. Looks like an awesome device but at $7k even with its enhanced image capabilities, my patience is more affordable.


You can build a cheap HTPC to run MadVR, like most of us do. If you have an old PC lying around, all you need to buy is a good GPU. All I spent was $400 on a RTX2060 Super. MadVR takes these projectors to another level with its tone mapping. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Bkuehl20

fredworld said:


> The 5 second delay is normal. It's a HDMI handshake. Mine is about 10 seconds, sometimes longer. As for the green, it could be the panel warming up OR, maybe more likely, it's the HDMI cable. Unplug and reseat the cable being sure it's secure in its port. If that doesn't help then try another cable.
> Cable length might be an issue, too, especially if it's over 15' and not an active cable.
> Alternatively, it won't hurt to contact *Epson Support* about the delay and the green issue if you can't sort them out with my suggestions. Others will likely have more to offer.
> If you need cable suggestions, post back.


Thanks for the help. Any ideas why the projector would get stuck on warmup? Like it won’t respond to anything (as in won’t respond to the buttons on the remote or the buttons on the projector itself). It’s like it stays frozen on displaying the Epson logo and the only way to correct it when it happens is unplugging the projector which I know can’t be good for it.


----------



## Bkuehl20

hms17B said:


> Does the video go thru an AVR? I have a 5050 and a Denon AVR, and sometimes the screen is pink or green or tinted such. Seems to be the AVR, not the 5050. If I switch the 5050 to another of its inputs and then back it's OK after that.


Yeah I have a Denon AVR as well. It’s odd when it happens as it doesn’t do it all the time. Seems random.


----------



## Bkuehl20

mon2479 said:


> I as well get a delay of a few seconds, mainly with HDR. Also when I have not turned on my 5050 in a while, I've noticed that as soon as i turn it on, it immediately goes into cool down mode for a while like it's trying to get rid of settled dest?.....IDK. Then there are rare times when it goes from cool down mode to closing the lense shutter with the fan still going hard. The flashing code I get pertains to the bulb, i will unplug the 5050, plug it back in and it will turn on just fine......#headscratcher


I know your pain - can’t make sense of it.


----------



## Bkuehl20

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Everything you mention is normal behaviour.. The delay is due to hdmi handshake and matching framerate, and i think you might actually be doing the projector a disservice by unhooking it when it starts with the fans on high and no image, this is also normal behaviour,and like others have suspected it might be related to dust build up, but no one actually knows why the projector does this..
> Mine does the same on occasion,and image comes on once is has done what it is supposed to do. It only takes around 30 seconds though.


Yeah it kills me to unplug but it sits in the warmup for 30+ minutes so I’m under the assumption it won’t correct itself unless I unplug it. It’s like it gets frozen warming up. Sometimes it will show the Epson logo when it gets stuck other times it does not.


----------



## fredworld

biglen said:


> You can build a cheap HTPC to run MadVR, like most of us do. If you have an old PC lying around, all you need to buy is a good GPU. All I spent was $400 on a RTX2060 Super. MadVR takes these projectors to another level with its tone mapping.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the tips, biglen. I recall you having advised similarly in the past and it was on one of my project lists for some time (I have a desktop WinXP sitting idle in storage) but space, time, a passion for other pursuits, and admittedly a fair amount of procrastination, along with being happy with my rig as-is has kept me in status quo mode when it comes to my HT room. But who knows? Someday....


----------



## fredworld

Bkuehl20 said:


> Thanks for the help. Any ideas why the projector would get stuck on warmup? Like it won’t respond to anything (as in won’t respond to the buttons on the remote or the buttons on the projector itself). It’s like it stays frozen on displaying the Epson logo and the only way to correct it when it happens is unplugging the projector which I know can’t be good for it.


In my three years of ownership I recall a slower than usual start-up, maybe 2 or 3 times, with a green Epson logo then appearing for a few seconds or over my Roku screen saver before kicking in. But those instances were less than a minute or two. You might consider checking with Epson Support.
Just had a thought, check your power cable and AC lines. Perhaps it's due to a power fluctuation. My PJ is on its own dedicated line on a Tripplite UPS power conditioner which supposedly maintains a consistent 120v.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Bkuehl20 said:


> Yeah it kills me to unplug but it sits in the warmup for 30+ minutes so I’m under the assumption it won’t correct itself unless I unplug it. It’s like it gets frozen warming up. Sometimes it will show the Epson logo when it gets stuck other times it does not.


30+ minutes is definitely not normal, so seems like a faulty unit.


----------



## NxNW

PixelPusher15 said:


> Mounting it further away and with minimal lens shift will result in the best image, optics-wise. With the 5050/6050, moving it closer doesn't really hurt contrast because it will be brighter and you can use more of the manual iris.
> 
> Each lens is a bit different so it's going to be up to your own experimentation to find what position is best for your unit.


Wow you're not kidding. Farther is better.

I was originally staging things close to the mount point where I positioned my previous projector, a BenQ 2050. For CIH zooming reasons, the old projector had to be at a very exact distance from the screen, around 10 ft. The Epson is much more flexible, but unfortunately the usable range (11 to 19ft for my screen) does not overlap at all with my old location. So I'm going to have to choose a new place in my ceiling to put this thing. Fine.

Naturally, when I first turned on the new projector, I put it as close as possible to the old mount point and based my focus and alignment opinions on that distance.

Tonight I said, what the heck, how far can i get. So even though my eventual mounting point will not allow it, tonight just for my own curiosity I tried crazy long throw distances. And yes, the longer the distance, the sharper the image.

I got as far as 30'.

So sharp! Oh my god. Anyone (with a deep room) complaining of chromatic aberration needs to try this.

And it certainly proved I have no panel alignment issues. Or if i do, it's fractions of a pixel, in the least noticeable color, blue.

I get it now why professional installations and commercial movie theaters go long.

11 ft :










30 ft:


----------



## jaredmwright

NxNW said:


> Wow you're not kidding. Farther is better.
> 
> I was originally staging things close to the mount point where I positioned my previous projector, a BenQ 2050. For CIH zooming reasons, the old projector had to be at a very exact distance from the screen, around 10 ft. The Epson is much more flexible, but unfortunately the usable range (11 to 19ft for my screen) does not overlap at all with my old location. So I'm going to have to choose a new place in my ceiling to put this thing. Fine.
> 
> Naturally, when I first turned on the new projector, I put it as close as possible to the old mount point and based my focus and alignment opinions on that distance.
> 
> Tonight I said, what the heck, how far can i get. So even though my eventual mounting point will not allow it, tonight just for my own curiosity I tried crazy long throw distances. And yes, the longer the distance, the sharper the image.
> 
> I got as far as 30'.
> 
> So sharp! Oh my god. Anyone (with a deep room) complaining of chromatic aberration needs to try this.
> 
> And it certainly proved I have no panel alignment issues. Or if i do, it's fractions of a pixel, in the least noticeable color, blue.
> 
> I get it now why professional installations and commercial movie theaters go long.
> 
> two pics, one from 30', one from 11' .. should be obvious which is which ..
> View attachment 3268519
> View attachment 3268520


Looks good, probably can get that convergence spot on by adjusting individually. I was able to on my and I project from close to 19' from the screen with a very sharp picture.


----------



## PixelPusher15

NxNW said:


> Wow you're not kidding. Farther is better.
> 
> I was originally staging things close to the mount point where I positioned my previous projector, a BenQ 2050. For CIH zooming reasons, the old projector had to be at a very exact distance from the screen, around 10 ft. The Epson is much more flexible, but unfortunately the usable range (11 to 19ft for my screen) does not overlap at all with my old location. So I'm going to have to choose a new place in my ceiling to put this thing. Fine.
> 
> Naturally, when I first turned on the new projector, I put it as close as possible to the old mount point and based my focus and alignment opinions on that distance.
> 
> Tonight I said, what the heck, how far can i get. So even though my eventual mounting point will not allow it, tonight just for my own curiosity I tried crazy long throw distances. And yes, the longer the distance, the sharper the image.
> 
> I got as far as 30'.
> 
> So sharp! Oh my god. Anyone (with a deep room) complaining of chromatic aberration needs to try this.
> 
> And it certainly proved I have no panel alignment issues. Or if i do, it's fractions of a pixel, in the least noticeable color, blue.
> 
> I get it now why professional installations and commercial movie theaters go long.
> 
> two pics, one from 30', one from 11' .. should be obvious which is which ..
> View attachment 3268519
> View attachment 3268520


Did the longer throw distances have less lens shift? I found just moving my 5050 down a few feet with my short throw helped with corner to corner focus. I'm wondering how much of what you are seeing is distance or lens shift. Both should make an improvement. Ideally, you want to use the least amount of glass and shoot right through the center of it for the best image.


----------



## NxNW

PixelPusher15 said:


> Did the longer throw distances have less lens shift?


Yes.

Before trying out focus at a very long distance, I held the lens button on the remote for 3 seconds and the image seemed to revert to some kind of 'home' position. I didn't apply any lens shift after that. I didn't mess with zoom either. I wasn't trying to perfectly fill an actual screen or even display any actual content, I was just inspecting the built in test patterns and menu text on a distant white wall. Mainly the purpose of the experiment was just to see the effect of distance.

Anyway I mostly came away thinking when people post pictures of blurry images and complain about chromatic aberration, the first response should be how big is your room and can you go back further?

I suppose the next question after that is can you use less lens shift?


----------



## PixelPusher15

NxNW said:


> Yes.
> 
> Before trying out focus at a very long distance, I held the lens button on the remote for 3 seconds and the image seemed to revert to some kind of 'home' position. I didn't apply any lens shift after that. I didn't mess with zoom either. I wasn't trying to perfectly fill an actual screen or even display any actual content, I was just inspecting the built in test patterns and menu text on a distant white wall. Mainly the purpose of the experiment was just to see the effect of distance.
> 
> Anyway I mostly came away thinking when people post pictures of blurry images and complain about chromatic aberration, the first response should be how big is your room and can you go back further?
> 
> I suppose the next question after that is can you use less lens shift?


Yeah, I'd test it a bit more and see if it was lens shift or distance that was really making the improvement. You went from using two things that can hurt focus, to zero.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Yeah, I'd test it a bit more and see if it was lens shift or distance that was really making the improvement. You went from using two things that can hurt focus, to zero.


I find it hard to believe the further back you move the projector, the better the image. I’m at the minimum throw, and the image is crystal clear. I can’t imagine it could be more crisp of an image. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tsunamijhoe

I have decided to order another TW-9400/6050ub as my dealer will hopefully get a couple of the last produced batch to Europe, according to Epson. I won't spend double the price on a ls12000 with a 4000hrs a year usage pattern and no 3D.. I will shelf the new 9400 for 18 months, and then install it with 6 months left on warranty,and box up my then 3 year old 9400 as a backup.
I cannot stress enough how good the 6050ub is at this price point.. Scoop em up if you get the chance,as chip shortage will effectively EOL this model..
Hopefully that will keep me stocked for the next 10-12 years,and by then i hope there will be either 50k hrs laser models for same price as current 6050,or affordable modular large screen TV's.


----------



## NxNW

Ok last experiment for awhile (it's possible to blow quite a bit of time on this sort of thing!?!) and yes, lens shift hurts the image. A little.

Unsurprisingly the effect is most noticeable when using the most extreme amounts of lens shift.

Also the effect of lens shift was more pronounced the closer the projector was to the screen (wall). At thirty feet it hardly matters. It 16 you can see it a bit. At 10 feet it's pretty obvious. See photos.

On my projector I noticed vertical lens shift in the direction away from the projectors feet (upward if its upright, downward if its inverted and hanging from a ceiling) causes more noticeable fringing. Which is sad since that's the direction I will need to go. Surely this can't be an intentional design decision but rather a random quirk of my particular unit.

As a practical matter, I think 16 is the furthest I can go in my actual media room so that's where I'll have it mounted. Maybe I'll update once the dust settles.

10 ft, extreme vertical shift:









16 ft, extreme vertical shift:


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## rupedogg24

I'm intrigued by all the chat around firmware 1.03 improving sharpness. I've had the 5050 for almost 3 years. It's the main screen for our family of six so it gets quite a bit of use. 

Bulb has 400 hours (2nd bulb) on it. I have a 120" silver ticket grey screen. I've only done calibration with my own eyes. Panel alignment OFF. I use the NATURAL setting for all my viewing because, well, it looks the most natural no matter what the content is. 

This photo is from the Amazon series Outer Range taken with my phone and zoomed in. It's really bright and sharp. I don't feel the need to upgrade the firmware unless someone tells me that the dynamic range is greatly improved.









Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


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## hms17B

I'm torn between picture modes. Various display devices I've had have all had modes for Natural/Normal/Etc, Cinema-This/Cinema-That, Dynamic/Vivid/Etc. In every case, including the 5050, Natural has always looked better to my eyes. Cinema modes always look kind of flat. Dynamic modes always look highly unnatural, exaggerated. Starting with a particular mode, I can apply adjustments, but Naturals still end up looking more natural, Cinemas still end up kind of flat, and Dynamics still end up looking bad. I'm tempted to use Natural as the starting point for everything on the 5050, SDR and HDR both. I've seen reviews that use Digital Cinema for HDR, and that it's better for color accuracy, but for me it's just not particulalrly satisfying - switching to Natural just looks better to me. Am I missing something, or do others find the same?


----------



## Enchy

hms17B said:


> I'm torn between picture modes. Various display devices I've had have all had modes for Natural/Normal/Etc, Cinema-This/Cinema-That, Dynamic/Vivid/Etc. In every case, including the 5050, Natural has always looked better to my eyes. Cinema modes always look kind of flat. Dynamic modes always look highly unnatural, exaggerated. Starting with a particular mode, I can apply adjustments, but Naturals still end up looking more natural, Cinemas still end up kind of flat, and Dynamics still end up looking bad. I'm tempted to use Natural as the starting point for everything on the 5050, SDR and HDR both. I've seen reviews that use Digital Cinema for HDR, and that it's better for color accuracy, but for me it's just not particulalrly satisfying - switching to Natural just looks better to me. Am I missing something, or do others find the same?


I've started using my Natural HDR calibration for most HDR content these days over digital cinema. I don't find the increased colors to be worth the loss of brightness.


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## hms17B

Enchy said:


> I've started using my Natural HDR calibration for most HDR content these days over digital cinema. I don't find the increased colors to be worth the loss of brightness.


Do you actually notice the color difference between Natural and Digital Cinema much? I suppose with measurements one could tell, but with the eye, nothing really stands out with what I've seen so far.


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## dimi123

Look at the reds in Natural and Cinema/Digital Cinema. I myself couldn't live without the color filter.

P.S.: I have the older 6040/9300, but with MadVR's HDR tone mapping it's as bright as SDR.


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## Enchy

hms17B said:


> Do you actually notice the color difference between Natural and Digital Cinema much? I suppose with measurements one could tell, but with the eye, nothing really stands out with what I've seen so far.


Yes if I switch back and forth I can tell, but again I prefer the brighter highlights I can get with natural, especially for games.


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## koberlin1

You will not be able to calibrate Digital Cinema to spec without some drastic tweaking, especially to the Epson's CMS. Right outta the gate you might not even meet the fL needed to properly calibrate. I do have a .85 microperf gray screen, along with the DC color filter knocking the brightness down 40%, which I am sure contributed to this. But I have done unity gain screens, and while they might be easier to calibrate, I prefer the gray screen for the contrast boost.

Post Digital Cinema calibration the only semi-viewable material were BRD's played on my DP-UB9000 where I could bump up the brightness with the built-in tone mapping. But even then the colors were dull. May try again with a different test pattern gen source (thinking the Murideo SIX-G). Or as others have stated get some sort of video processor.

For now I am using my calibrated Natural mode (was WAY easier to calibrate than DC) for all material SDR + HDR. I have all my HDR content-delivery sources (AppleTV, Roku Premiere+, Nvidia Shield, and Panasonic DP-UB9000) outputting in the BT.709 color space for best results. 

I do have the projector automatically jump to Bright Cinema mode (using some RTI logic) during the day as that is when my kids are on it, and in turn at night I have the PJ automatically go to my calibrated Natural mode...looks very good on all my sources and especially good when watching BRD's via UB9000 + it's internal tone mapping. 

Got through some notoriously difficult films for projectors over the last few weeks (Bladerunner 2049, The Hobbit Trilogy, Alien Covenant), all on UHD BRD via UB9000 w/ tone mapping on, and was thrilled with the calibrated Natural mode results. Pair that up with my Dirac Live-calibrated Atmos sound system and it is cinematic heaven!


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## hms17B

koberlin1 said:


> You will not be able to calibrate Digital Cinema to spec without some drastic tweaking, especially to the Epson's CMS. Right outta the gate you might not even meet the fL needed to properly calibrate. I do have a .85 microperf gray screen, along with the DC color filter knocking the brightness down 40%, which I am sure contributed to this. But I have done unity gain screens, and while they might be easier to calibrate, I prefer the gray screen for the contrast boost.
> 
> Post Digital Cinema calibration the only semi-viewable material were BRD's played on my DP-UB9000 where I could bump up the brightness with the built-in tone mapping. But even then the colors were dull. May try again with a different test pattern gen source (thinking the Murideo SIX-G). Or as others have stated get some sort of video processor.
> 
> For now I am using my calibrated Natural mode (was WAY easier to calibrate than DC) for all material SDR + HDR. I have all my HDR content-delivery sources (AppleTV, Roku Premiere+, Nvidia Shield, and Panasonic DP-UB9000) outputting in the BT.709 color space for best results.
> 
> I do have the projector automatically jump to Bright Cinema mode (using some RTI logic) during the day as that is when my kids are on it, and in turn at night I have the PJ automatically go to my calibrated Natural mode...looks very good on all my sources and especially good when watching BRD's via UB9000 + it's internal tone mapping.
> 
> Got through some notoriously difficult films for projectors over the last few weeks (Bladerunner 2049, The Hobbit Trilogy, Alien Covenant), all on UHD BRD via UB9000 w/ tone mapping on, and was thrilled with the calibrated Natural mode results. Pair that up with my Dirac Live-calibrated Atmos sound system and it is cinematic heaven!


Sounds very encouraging for going with Natural over Digital Cinema.


----------



## v1nh

Is it still not recommended to use panel alignment on the 6050?


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## tony123

Have about 75 hours on the 5050 now. Very much enjoying it. Biggest surprise is what a nice job it does with 1080p bluray. Last night was my first chance with 4k bluray (Dune) and I don't feel the resolution increase gave much improvement at all. Some of the 4k streaming content has been outstanding, but not this disc. 

I suppose I will choose 4k if the option is easy, but I won't feel like I'm missing much otherwise. Is that the consensus?


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## rupedogg24

hms17B said:


> I'm torn between picture modes. Various display devices I've had have all had modes for Natural/Normal/Etc, Cinema-This/Cinema-That, Dynamic/Vivid/Etc. In every case, including the 5050, Natural has always looked better to my eyes. Cinema modes always look kind of flat. Dynamic modes always look highly unnatural, exaggerated. Starting with a particular mode, I can apply adjustments, but Naturals still end up looking more natural, Cinemas still end up kind of flat, and Dynamics still end up looking bad. I'm tempted to use Natural as the starting point for everything on the 5050, SDR and HDR both. I've seen reviews that use Digital Cinema for HDR, and that it's better for color accuracy, but for me it's just not particulalrly satisfying - switching to Natural just looks better to me. Am I missing something, or do others find the same?


Don't be torn. Natural has been the best looking mode for our family viewing. Cable, streaming, BRD, gaming, etc. all look great on Natural. Don't have to worry about changing the mode for varied content.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

Following up to my comments in a *prior post* I've been using the settings established in Natural mode, mostly at the prompting of @PixelPusher15. What I discovered is that I'm not changing memory settings from source to source. Having viewed a wide variety of material from various streaming services, UHD discs, HD bluray disc and even SD DVD and Laser Disc it seems I've settled in, after almost three years of ownership, on Natural for everything. Notably, I'm using Auto Iris on High. I'm not noticing the pumping of the Auto Iris nearly as much as when I was using the Digital Cinema settings. Also, I did a fair amount of experimenting with the Manual Iris and I still end up at -10 as the best compromise for black level detail and contrast for my setup/preferences/tastes. On rare occasions it seems I need to notch up brightness from 49 to 50 but my HDR slider remains at 4 throughout. The situation doesn't require change from 16:9 mode to 2.35:1 either. Again, others shouldn't read into this too deeply because my screen size is probably smaller than I think everyone one else's on this thread. My current lamp is near 1200 hours and runs on Medium.


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## hms17B

fredworld said:


> Following up to my comments in a *prior post* I've been using the settings established in Natural mode, mostly at the prompting of @PixelPusher15. What I discovered is that I'm not changing memory settings from source to source. Having viewed a wide variety of material from various streaming services, UHD discs, HD bluray disc and even SD DVD and Laser Disc it seems I've settled in, after almost three years of ownership, on Natural for everything. Notably, I'm using Auto Iris on High. I'm not noticing the pumping of the Auto Iris nearly as much as when I was using the Digital Cinema settings. Also, I did a fair amount of experimenting with the Manual Iris and I still end up at -10 as the best compromise for black level detail and contrast for my setup/preferences/tastes. On rare occasions it seems I need to notch up brightness from 49 to 50 but my HDR slider remains at 4 throughout. The situation doesn't require change from 16:9 mode to 2.35:1 either. Again, others shouldn't read into this too deeply because my screen size is probably smaller than I think everyone one else's on this thread. My current lamp is near 1200 hours and runs on Medium.


Looks like more votes for Natural. There was a post about reds being better in Cinema, though. I guess I'll be doing some more comparing before settling. But I haven't yet perceived Cinema to look better than Natural with my own eyes..


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## jaredmwright

hms17B said:


> Looks like more votes for Natural. There was a post about reds being better in Cinema, though. I guess I'll be doing some more comparing before settling. But I haven't yet perceived Cinema to look better than Natural with my own eyes..


Another vote for Natural here. Use MadVR with VP and it really looks amazing with Natural when calibrated.


----------



## Sekosche

v1nh said:


> Is it still not recommended to use panel alignment on the 6050?


Use it if needed to correct a poor factory alignment. Unfortunately, my 5050 has by far the worst alignment of my last 3 Epson PJ’s by far, so I’m using quite a lot of adjustment. However, with everything calibrated to my liking, the lens has excellent uniformity and it’s all razor sharp from my seat. Without PA on, text is particularly a blurry mess with colors creeping out like a neon sign.


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## hms17B

I decided to use Natural mode as the starting point for both SDR and HDR on my 5050. No more Digital Cinema. Digital Cinema just looks dull to me, and I don't think it's just the lower light level - hard to put your finger on it, though. Looking at colors, I don 't think the color filter makes enough of a difference to be worth the light loss, even though I can see some differences with and without the filter. I think the yellows actually look better without the filter. Someone said that reds were a lot better with the filter, but I'm not really seeing it much.

With the greater light using Natural, I can drop the manual iris down even more. Finally I have blacks that are dark enough to be perceived as black rather than gray. Black is never pitch black of course, but I find I have a perception threshold where a dark enough gray can seem like black even though it isn't truly. And I can finally cross that threshold. Very happy about that part.

I've had other display devices that had Natural/Normal and various Cinema modes. They always said the Cinema modes were more accurate, but they always looked poor to me. Same with the 5050. I remember back when I had laserdisc and the original Joe Kane test disc. It had us make adjustments to get a more cinema look. OK to an extent, but go all the way with the recommendations and it seemed to suck the life out of the image. They said live with it for a while and you'll come to like it. I did live with it for a while and never liked it, so I stopped short of the full extent of adjustment. It's been the same with everything since. The supposedly better looking cinema modes/settings always turn out to be flat and blah looking to my eyes.


----------



## NxNW

hms17B said:


> I decided to use Natural mode as the starting point for both SDR and HDR on my 5050.


I'm sure you've posted it along the way already so I apologize in advance for asking again, but what is your screen size and mounting distance?


----------



## hms17B

NxNW said:


> I'm sure you've posted it along the way already so I apologize in advance for asking again, but what is your screen size and mounting distance?


100" screen about 10' throw. But I have tried it in another part of the house where I could project much larger with differing zoom and shift. Image less bright when larger but otherwise not much different.


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## NxNW

Got it. Should be plenty of light for that size and distance. I agree there is something about the filter modes that _feels_ different and I can't put my finger on it..


----------



## biglen

NxNW said:


> Got it. Should be plenty of light for that size and distance. I agree there is something about the filter modes that _feels_ different and I can't put my finger on it..


The colors look dull to me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

biglen said:


> The colors look dull to me.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


With the filter it does look dull, flat, murkier. Color may be more accurate if measured, can't say since I haven't measured it, but it certainly doesn't look better. At any rate, I watched "Singin' in the Rain" (4K0 tonight and it looked great using Natural instead of Digital Cinema. Now I'm going to have to rewatch all the 4K titles I previously watched under Digital Cinema.


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## fredworld

At my local Best Buy in North Wilmington, DE.


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## NxNW

Wow

(a little buyers remorse for me- if they are discounting their remaining stock like this from here out then maybe I was the last Best Buy customer to pay full price)


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## DavidK442

I wonder if a Best Buy open box has the same level of service as an Epson open box?
Regardless, worth the risk vs a brand new 5050 just to get the black body.


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## Alan P

fredworld said:


> At my local Best Buy in North Wilmington, DE.


"*Missing Parts:* Many"


----------



## biglen

Alan P said:


> "*Missing Parts:* Many"


No lamp, no lens, no remote, no manual, no power cord…..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

Alan P said:


> "*Missing Parts:* Many"





biglen said:


> No lamp, no lens, no remote, no manual, no power cord…..
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ha ha! I inquired about that of the salesman I was speaking with. He wasn't aware of why it says that other than that it was the standard used, open box or demo price tag description. Since I wasn't in the market, I didn't press him for information. Anyone who's interested in the unit should call the Magnolia Store there directly at tel:+1-302-477-0305.

Addendum: it appears that this particular unit is rated as "satisfactory". See *this link* which indicates "non-essential" missing parts.


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## hms17B

fredworld said:


> Ha ha! I inquired about that of the salesman I was speaking with. He wasn't aware of why it says that other than that it was the standard used, open box or demo price tag description. Since I wasn't in the market, I didn't press him for information. Anyone who's interested in the unit should call the Magnolia Store there directly at tel:+1-302-477-0305.
> 
> Addendum: it appears that this particular unit is rated as "satisfactory". See *this link* which indicates "non-essential" missing parts.


Yes, it was used by a guy who returned it after his basement HT flooded. Another benefit of the black case - you hardly notice the mud.


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## dmanroy

dimi123 said:


> Look at the reds in Natural and Cinema/Digital Cinema. I myself couldn't live without the color filter.
> 
> P.S.: I have the older 6040/9300, but with MadVR's HDR tone mapping it's as bright as SDR.


I am using MadVR PC tone mapping as well. I normally use digital cinema for HDR but I did a quick experiment this weekend with Natural. The color accuracy with the color filter was too obvious to me. Without the color filter I felt like I was watching a bluray.


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## Skylinestar

Hello everyone. Any recommendation for long HDMI cable? Length is approx 30 feet.


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## hms17B

dmanroy said:


> I am using MadVR PC tone mapping as well. I normally use digital cinema for HDR but I did a quick experiment this weekend with Natural. The color accuracy with the color filter was too obvious to me. Without the color filter I felt like I was watching a bluray.


I don't use MadVR. Have a Panasonic 820. When I compare Digital Cinema to Natural, I don't see a pronounced difference in color. The filter may make it more accurate, but it's not visibly noticeable to me. With the filter it all looks kind of dull to me, not really pleasing at all. I used various Spears & Munsil disc patterns mostly when comparing. Is there something in particular I might view that could show me the difference you're talking about? I don't want to go down the wrong road here.


----------



## The Turnback

Skylinestar said:


> Hello everyone. Any recommendation for long HDMI cable? Length is approx 30 feet.


Go for a fiber optic HDMI cable (not copper). Plenty of choices on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KZ86BDT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_WMVQQA10FF5X5W1EEMZG?psc=1).


----------



## fredworld

Skylinestar said:


> Hello everyone. Any recommendation for long HDMI cable? Length is approx 30 feet.


Either *BJC Series-3A Active* or Fiber Optic or High Speed Active Series from *MyCableMart**.* I've been using a 35' run of Redmere Elite High Speed Active HDMI cable from MyCableMart for three years with no issues.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Either *BJC Series-3A Active* or Fiber Optic or High Speed Active Series from *MyCableMart**.* I've been using a 35' run of Redmere Elite High Speed Active HDMI cable from MyCableMart for three years with no issues.


+1 for the BJC Active. I’ve been using one for years with my 5050, and have had zero issues. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Enchy

Any reason not to leave the projector on "fast" mode all the time? I don't ever use motion smoothing. As far as I can tell that's the only thing that it changes.


----------



## NxNW

For me, video always seems to occur before the associated sound. I can't put negative lip sync on my AVR. I can never slow down the video _enough_. If there is something I can do on the projector to make it 'less fast', then I'm all for it..


----------



## fredworld

NxNW said:


> For me, video always seems to occur before the associated sound. I can't put negative lip sync on my AVR. I can never slow down the video _enough_. If there is something I can do on the projector to make it 'less fast', then I'm all for it..


Based on your description, it sounds to me that the video is ahead of the audio. You need to speed up the audio.
I'm not aware of a "slowing down the video" feature on any consumer gear but every AVP/AVR I've had has had an audio sync feature in both directions. What model and how old is your AVR?


----------



## NxNW

Denon 750. There's a lip sync setting. It goes as low as zero. It doesn't go negative.

Anyway, the details would be a little off topic here- I was just sorta pointing out there are Epson owners (especially me, since I don't do gaming on the projector) who don't require 'fast'


----------



## Orwellflash

NxNW said:


> Denon 750. There's a lip sync setting. It goes as low as zero. It doesn't go negative.
> 
> Anyway, the details would be a little off topic here- I was just sorta pointing out there are Epson owners (especially me, since I don't do gaming on the projector) who don't require 'fast'


In my experience, it is very difficult to adjust lip sync and know if it is ahead or behind. I would try 90ms delay of audio. I have never found audio to lag video unless it is being slowed down by another setting which I am unaware of (like on a dvd player). Try this, it might help:


----------



## Enchy

The auto-lipsync on my Denon works great, I've never noticed an issue.

I leave my projector on "fast" all the time since my usage is around 50% gaming. Just wondering if there's anything other that motion smoothing that I'm missing doing so.


----------



## Strahan

I apologize if this has already been covered, but I do not see a "search thread" option and I kinda don't want to read through 690 pages lol. 

I was curious; if I'm stepping out for ~20 minutes or so, is it better on the PJ if I hit the blanking button to "rest" the bulb, or turn it entirely off then back on when I return? I remember back in the day being told with my PLV-Z4 to not cycle the power often, so I was assuming the blank button would be the better option but I figured I'd ask to be sure.

Thanks!


----------



## rekbones

Strahan said:


> I apologize if this has already been covered, but I do not see a "search thread" option and I kinda don't want to read through 690 pages lol.
> 
> I was curious; if I'm stepping out for ~20 minutes or so, is it better on the PJ if I hit the blanking button to "rest" the bulb, or turn it entirely off then back on when I return? I remember back in the day being told with my PLV-Z4 to not cycle the power often, so I was assuming the blank button would be the better option but I figured I'd ask to be sure.
> 
> Thanks!


Personally unless I plan to be out of the room for at least an hour or so I just leave it on. Not sure what the blank actually does so no clue if it should be used or not. I also make sure the source device won't sleep sending the projector into auto shut down, usually my HTPC that never sleeps as it is also my home media server.


----------



## fredworld

rekbones said:


> Personally unless I plan to be out of the room for at least an hour or so I just leave it on. Not sure what the blank actually does so no clue if it should be used or not. I also make sure the source device won't sleep sending the projector into auto shut down, usually my HTPC that never sleeps as it is also my home media server.


Similarly here but I switch to my Roku input for the screen saver.


----------



## garnuts

Strahan said:


> I apologize if this has already been covered, but I do not see a "search thread" option and I kinda don't want to read through 690 pages lol.
> 
> I was curious; if I'm stepping out for ~20 minutes or so, is it better on the PJ if I hit the blanking button to "rest" the bulb, or turn it entirely off then back on when I return? I remember back in the day being told with my PLV-Z4 to not cycle the power often, so I was assuming the blank button would be the better option but I figured I'd ask to be sure.
> 
> Thanks!


In the search box at the top of the page where it says 'Community Search', start typing and a drop down box will appear and you can choose where to search.


----------



## citsur86

Hey everyone. Wondering if anyone could tell me how to get the lowest input lag on the 5050UB for gaming. Just picked up an Xbox series X yesterday and jumped into some games. I’ve read it should go to around 30ms which isn’t great, but isn’t awful either and is definitely above average for a projector. However when I’m playing it still feels a bit sluggish compared to playing on a LG OLED that I’ve usually played on. Was hoping to have the Series X on in the theater. Also, anyone know how to see current fps from the Epson? Is it possible?


----------



## Gjlloyd

I've had my (refurbished) 5050UB for about 6 months, a few weeks ago a white blob started appearing in the bottom left, visible only when the screen is projecting darks / blacks. Does anyone have experience with this? I attached a close up of the lens when its on, showing various debris.. but not sure if thats a problem or just normal dust. Thanks for any help!


----------



## fredworld

Gjlloyd said:


> I've had my (refurbished) 5050UB for about 6 months, a few weeks ago a white blob started appearing in the bottom left, visible only when the screen is projecting darks / blacks. Does anyone have experience with this? I attached a close up of the lens when its on, showing various debris.. but not sure if thats a problem or just normal dust. Thanks for any help!


It's a dust blob. A damned annoying, distracting, eventually to be multiplying, time consuming and/or costly to remedy only to occur again in another part of the frame *DUST BLOB* .
Ps: search dust blob in this forum for endless comments.


----------



## Enchy

citsur86 said:


> Hey everyone. Wondering if anyone could tell me how to get the lowest input lag on the 5050UB for gaming. Just picked up an Xbox series X yesterday and jumped into some games. I’ve read it should go to around 30ms which isn’t great, but isn’t awful either and is definitely above average for a projector. However when I’m playing it still feels a bit sluggish compared to playing on a LG OLED that I’ve usually played on. Was hoping to have the Series X on in the theater. Also, anyone know how to see current fps from the Epson? Is it possible?


Is image processing set to fine or fast? Set to fast the input lag is pretty easy to handle. I use my projector about 50% for gaming and I've never had issues with lag.


----------



## 1949live

Hi - can't find this topic discussed regarding a 6050UB projector which i find strange, but I apologize if its been discussed and I can't find it - pointer appreciated. I have now gone through four - yes four - 6050UB projectors under warranty. The last one I insisted they send me a brand new projector rather than a refurbished one. Each projector has the same issue - the lamp fails to ignite. You wait and wait and it never starts. The latest firmware update, as far as I can tell, just starts the fans on high after about 45 seconds, which never helps. I presume they do that in case this is a hot restrike However, in my case it is not - in each and every time the unit is cold. And the lamp either takes several minutes before it ignites, or the unit gives up and starts flashing the orange LED. At that point all I can do is unplug and then replug the unit (a real pain as it is ceiling mounted). Then it usually starts up. I love the projector when it is running, but getting there is just so frustrating. This is clearly a design problem as four projectors, new and refurbed, all exhibit the same issue. Is no one else having this problem? Only unique items here I can think of the is the projector is turned on over the network (automation system) and the fans are set for High Altitude Mode as I live in Denver. Any input would be very welcome before i tear my hair out.

Thanks.


----------



## fredworld

1949live said:


> Hi - can't find this topic discussed regarding a 6050UB projector which i find strange, but I apologize if its been discussed and I can't find it - pointer appreciated. I have now gone through four - yes four - 6050UB projectors under warranty. The last one I insisted they send me a brand new projector rather than a refurbished one. Each projector has the same issue - the lamp fails to ignite. You wait and wait and it never starts. The latest firmware update, as far as I can tell, just starts the fans on high after about 45 seconds, which never helps. I presume they do that in case this is a hot restrike However, in my case it is not - in each and every time the unit is cold. And the lamp either takes several minutes before it ignites, or the unit gives up and starts flashing the orange LED. At that point all I can do is unplug and then replug the unit (a real pain as it is ceiling mounted). Then it usually starts up. I love the projector when it is running, but getting there is just so frustrating. This is clearly a design problem as four projectors, new and refurbed, all exhibit the same issue. Is no one else having this problem? Only unique items here I can think of the is the projector is turned on over the network (automation system) and the fans are set for High Altitude Mode as I live in Denver. Any input would be very welcome before i tear my hair out.
> 
> Thanks.


I'll hazard a guess that since you're on your 4th PJ that exhibits the same behavior that it's not the PJ but something local but I'm at a loss to guess further, however, I've some questions:

What troubleshooting steps has Epson advised? And what were the results? 
Has Epson made any suggestions regarding your setup?
What is your equipment chain?
Is the PJ on a dedicated AC line?
How stable is your AC? Are there fluctuations when tested?


----------



## 1949live

Thanks for the response. So I gather this is not a common problem? Even stranger. Here's answers to your questions:

1. Epson has been little help. They simply offer to replace the unit. They ask that I check the firmware for the latest (it is), and nothing really beyond that.​2. As above, never even asked about setup.​3. Equipment chain as follows:​Source -> Sony AVR STR-ZA810ES -> HDBaseT Extender transmitter (AV Access 4KEX100-H2) -> HDBaseT receiver (AV Access) -> projector.​4. Dedicated AC line with surge supressor​5. AC is very very stable - never noted any fluctuations, and this lamp issue occurs every time unit is powered on.​​In case you wonder, the AV Access extender I use everywhere and have no issues with it. Besides, an HDMI signal issue would not impact lamp ignition. As I mentioned, the unit is set for high altitude mode.

Thanks much.


----------



## hms17B

rekbones said:


> Personally unless I plan to be out of the room for at least an hour or so I just leave it on. Not sure what the blank actually does so no clue if it should be used or not. I also make sure the source device won't sleep sending the projector into auto shut down, usually my HTPC that never sleeps as it is also my home media server.


I think blank just displays a black image instead of whatever is coming from the input, leaving the lamp operation as is. Hard to tell exactly, but when blanked, the input remains connected, and I don't hear a change in fan noise. I tried it when playing the Spears & Munsil test disc pattern of a completely black window, and the blanked screen looked no different from the disc pattern. So it would appear that blank is not intended to rest the hardware in any way, but to just blank out the image temporarily for whatever reason you may have for not wanting it to show.


----------



## hms17B

Gjlloyd said:


> I've had my (refurbished) 5050UB for about 6 months, a few weeks ago a white blob started appearing in the bottom left, visible only when the screen is projecting darks / blacks. Does anyone have experience with this? I attached a close up of the lens when its on, showing various debris.. but not sure if thats a problem or just normal dust. Thanks for any help!


The flecks on the lens are dust but are never visible in the projected image. Such flecks are there when firing up a factory-new unit right out of the factory-sealed box for the very first time. I've had two new 5050s, first one had a problem with the iris, second one was a brand new replacement. Both showed the flecks on the lens immediately. As for the blob you're seeing, others have answered that.


----------



## fredworld

1949live said:


> Thanks for the response. So I gather this is not a common problem? Even stranger. Here's answers to your questions:
> 
> 1. Epson has been little help. They simply offer to replace the unit. They ask that I check the firmware for the latest (it is), and nothing really beyond that.​2. As above, never even asked about setup.​3. Equipment chain as follows:​Source -> Sony AVR STR-ZA810ES -> HDBaseT Extender transmitter (AV Access 4KEX100-H2) -> HDBaseT receiver (AV Access) -> projector.​4. Dedicated AC line with surge supressor​5. AC is very very stable - never noted any fluctuations, and this lamp issue occurs every time unit is powered on.​​In case you wonder, the AV Access extender I use everywhere and have no issues with it. Besides, an HDMI signal issue would not impact lamp ignition. As I mentioned, the unit is set for high altitude mode.
> 
> Thanks much.


Thanks for all that. I'd try addressing the problem through your equipment chain by eliminating everything between the PJ and the source.
What is your source? Is it a disc player? If so, which one(s)? If not, what are you using?
Have you tried connecting the PJ directly to the source to see if the issue persists? You might have to move the source closer to the PJ to do so. If the problem is eliminated with the source connected directly, then introduce the AVR next. Then the extenders one at a time.
How long is your HDMI cable and what type is it? Active? Fiber Optic?


----------



## hms17B

1949live said:


> Thanks for the response. So I gather this is not a common problem? Even stranger. Here's answers to your questions:
> 
> 1. Epson has been little help. They simply offer to replace the unit. They ask that I check the firmware for the latest (it is), and nothing really beyond that.​2. As above, never even asked about setup.​3. Equipment chain as follows:​Source -> Sony AVR STR-ZA810ES -> HDBaseT Extender transmitter (AV Access 4KEX100-H2) -> HDBaseT receiver (AV Access) -> projector.​4. Dedicated AC line with surge supressor​5. AC is very very stable - never noted any fluctuations, and this lamp issue occurs every time unit is powered on.​​In case you wonder, the AV Access extender I use everywhere and have no issues with it. Besides, an HDMI signal issue would not impact lamp ignition. As I mentioned, the unit is set for high altitude mode.
> 
> Thanks much.


Try plugging it into another outlet that is not on your dedicated line with surge suppressor and see how it fires up. You should get to the Epson logo and then the home screen even with no inputs connected. Not sure why the power connection could be a problem, but you should try all the possibilities to be sure. You could also try setting it off high altitude mode and see what happens then when you start it up - that shouldn't hurt it if you only have high altitude off for the few moments it ought to take turning on.


----------



## fredworld

1949live said:


> Thanks for the response. So I gather this is not a common problem? Even stranger. Here's answers to your questions:
> 
> 1. Epson has been little help. They simply offer to replace the unit. They ask that I check the firmware for the latest (it is), and nothing really beyond that.​2. As above, never even asked about setup.​3. Equipment chain as follows:​Source -> Sony AVR STR-ZA810ES -> HDBaseT Extender transmitter (AV Access 4KEX100-H2) -> HDBaseT receiver (AV Access) -> projector.​4. Dedicated AC line with surge supressor​5. AC is very very stable - never noted any fluctuations, and this lamp issue occurs every time unit is powered on.​​In case you wonder, the AV Access extender I use everywhere and have no issues with it. Besides, an HDMI signal issue would not impact lamp ignition. As I mentioned, the unit is set for high altitude mode.
> 
> Thanks much.





fredworld said:


> Thanks for all that. I'd try addressing the problem through your equipment chain by eliminating everything between the PJ and the source.
> What is your source? Is it a disc player? If so, which one(s)? If not, what are you using?
> Have you tried connecting the PJ directly to the source to see if the issue persists? You might have to move the source closer to the PJ to do so. If the problem is eliminated with the source connected directly, then introduce the AVR next. Then the extenders one at a time.
> How long is your HDMI cable and what type is it? Active? Fiber Optic?





hms17B said:


> Try plugging it into another outlet that is not on your dedicated line with surge suppressor and see how it fires up. You should get to the Epson logo and then the home screen even with no inputs connected. Not sure why the power connection could be a problem, but you should try all the possibilities to be sure. You could also try setting it off high altitude mode and see what happens then when you start it up - that shouldn't hurt it if you only have high altitude off for the few moments it ought to take turning on.


Also, try using the PJ's HDMI 2 if you're using HDMI 1 or vice versa. Probably won't help since you're on your 4th PJ but it's part of the process of elimination.


----------



## 1949live

fredworld said:


> Also, try using the PJ's HDMI 2 if you're using HDMI 1 or vice versa. Probably won't help since you're on your 4th PJ but it's part of the process of elimination.


I have tried this with no effect. I even tried physically disconnecting both the HDMI and network interfaces, and manually pushing the power button. Still has lamp ignition problems. Even turned off the High Altitude selection. Again no effect. I am really baffled. Any further thoughts? No one else has seen this issue?


----------



## fredworld

1949live said:


> I have tried this with no effect. I even tried physically disconnecting both the HDMI and network interfaces, and manually pushing the power button. Still has lamp ignition problems. Even turned off the High Altitude selection. Again no effect. I am really baffled. Any further thoughts? No one else has seen this issue?


Having done all that, I'll presume the common element among all 4 projectors has been the AC power. If you have an Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) battery backup that you can temporarily install for power that's not connected to AC, then I'd try that.
Did you try replacement of the air filter?
Flashing Orange light indicates some kind of internal error such as lamp, fan, Auto Iris, Cinema Filter, that the manual suggests seeking Epson's help with, which you've done.
The 6050 comes with a spare lamp. Have you tried replacing the lamp?
Since you're using an extender, I presume your using a wireless signal. Have you tried resetting the WL connection? See page 158 of the manual for other suggestions about wireless.
Admittedly, I'm groping for remedies.

Edit: if you opt for a 5th PJ, I suggest that you set it up all by itself with just a source connected with a short (no longer than one meter) HDMI cable to, preferably, a UHD or BD player and if it fires up ok, let it run a movie for several hours a day for a week or so before installing it in your complete system.


----------



## NxNW

ryudoadema said:


> Posted a few times recently already, but in case you missed it.
> To minimize crosstalk...
> 
> *3D Brightness = Low
> Dynamic Iris = Off*
> 
> Try to *watch from the center of the glasses*, as looking through them at an angle or on the sides can contribute a little to crosstalk.


Thank you.
Watched John Carter last night and tried out a few different settings and basically ended up confirming these recommendations.


----------



## apollocr

Hello everyone,
I just picked up a 5050ub and will be connecting a 4K Firestick to it (majority of content will be from this although I do have my Blu-ray player for when I want to watch my films) 
Firestick > AVR > 5050ub 
I have all the proper cables to get the best image possible. 
curious on what the best display settings would be on the Firestick?


----------



## fredworld

apollocr said:


> Hello everyone,
> I just picked up a 5050ub and will be connecting a 4K Firestick to it (majority of content will be from this although I do have my Blu-ray player for when I want to watch my films)
> Firestick > AVR > 5050ub
> I have all the proper cables to get the best image possible.
> curious on what the best display settings would be on the Firestick?


The quick answer is "use Natural" mode, medium lamp setting.

A longer answer is if you're not going to get a professional calibration then I don't recommend relying on the settings of others as there are far too many variables involved among room set up, light control, manufacturing variances, lamp performance, throw distance, personal taste, etc.
Purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc was one of the best investments I made at $40 for my display. The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm just about spot on with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs. Most of the patterns are for "evaluation only" while a few are specifically for adjusting user controls. It's those few that I return to for tweaking, mainly, Brightness, Contrast and the disc's Demo Material for Color/Tint, and for further fine tuning, judicious use of the HDR slider of the 5050 or in my Panasonic player's HDR Optimizer. Some experimentation of the projector's GAMMA setting is necessary. It's an iterative process and requires patience.
Much more information on setup can be found in this forum from others with better technical backgrounds than I, as a *search for "settings" in this thread *uncovers.
Good luck and congratulations on your purchase. Enjoy the journey.


----------



## apollocr

fredworld said:


> The quick answer is "use Natural" mode, medium lamp setting.
> 
> A longer answer is if you're not going to get a professional calibration then I don't recommend relying on the settings of others as there are far too many variables involved among room set up, light control, manufacturing variances, lamp performance, throw distance, personal taste, etc.
> Purchasing the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc was one of the best investments I made at $40 for my display. The S&M UHD disc got me to where I'm just about spot on with most movies both SDR and HDR _AND_ with no special equipment except my eyeballs. Most of the patterns are for "evaluation only" while a few are specifically for adjusting user controls. It's those few that I return to for tweaking, mainly, Brightness, Contrast and the disc's Demo Material for Color/Tint, and for further fine tuning, judicious use of the HDR slider of the 5050 or in my Panasonic player's HDR Optimizer. Some experimentation of the projector's GAMMA setting is necessary. It's an iterative process and requires patience.
> Much more information on setup can be found in this forum from others with better technical backgrounds than I, as a *search for "settings" in this thread *uncovers.
> Good luck and congratulations on your purchase. Enjoy the journey.


I appreciate this information! I am going to get it calibrated by someone, but what I meant is the display settings for the firestick.


*Video Resolution* 
*Match Original Frame Rate* 
*Color Depth*
*Color Format*
*Calibrate Display* 
*Dynamic Range Settings*


----------



## Alaric

1949live said:


> I have tried this with no effect. I even tried physically disconnecting both the HDMI and network interfaces, and manually pushing the power button. Still has lamp ignition problems. Even turned off the High Altitude selection. Again no effect. I am really baffled. Any further thoughts? No one else has seen this issue?


" Each projector has the same issue - the lamp fails to ignite. You wait and wait and it never starts. The latest firmware update, as far as I can tell, just starts the fans on high after about 45 seconds, which never helps. I presume they do that in case this is a hot restrike However, in my case it is not - in each and every time the unit is cold. And the lamp either takes several minutes before it ignites, or the unit gives up and starts flashing the orange LED. At that point all I can do is unplug and then replug the unit (a real pain as it is ceiling mounted). Then it usually starts up."

Logically if no one else is really responding or has particularly seen the issue, and you've had 4 projectors from Epson, SOMETHING odd is happening in your situation?

I'd be tempted to place the PJ on a table so is easy to access, reset to factory defaults, plug one item in with a short cable (or firestick direct) and take thing back to as basic as possible. See if THAT works, then build up slowly, with settings, items etc and find the point of failure that way.

If things don't work reliably in a really simple situation, then is it environmental or maybe something in shipping ?

Just trying to apply how I trouble shoot other things when I'm stumped. The amount of times I've found something I'd missed, often bleeding obvious, but going back to simple in a complex situation is a really useful thing!


----------



## AVRams

1949live said:


> Thanks for the response. So I gather this is not a common problem? Even stranger. Here's answers to your questions:
> 
> 1. Epson has been little help. They simply offer to replace the unit. They ask that I check the firmware for the latest (it is), and nothing really beyond that.​2. As above, never even asked about setup.​3. Equipment chain as follows:​Source -> Sony AVR STR-ZA810ES -> HDBaseT Extender transmitter (AV Access 4KEX100-H2) -> HDBaseT receiver (AV Access) -> projector.​4. Dedicated AC line with surge supressor​5. AC is very very stable - never noted any fluctuations, and this lamp issue occurs every time unit is powered on.​​In case you wonder, the AV Access extender I use everywhere and have no issues with it. Besides, an HDMI signal issue would not impact lamp ignition. As I mentioned, the unit is set for high altitude mode.
> 
> Thanks much.


Remove your surge suppressor, or use another AC outlet for testing.


----------



## hms17B

Alaric said:


> " Each projector has the same issue - the lamp fails to ignite. You wait and wait and it never starts. The latest firmware update, as far as I can tell, just starts the fans on high after about 45 seconds, which never helps. I presume they do that in case this is a hot restrike However, in my case it is not - in each and every time the unit is cold. And the lamp either takes several minutes before it ignites, or the unit gives up and starts flashing the orange LED. At that point all I can do is unplug and then replug the unit (a real pain as it is ceiling mounted). Then it usually starts up."
> 
> Logically if no one else is really responding or has particularly seen the issue, and you've had 4 projectors from Epson, SOMETHING odd is happening in your situation?
> 
> I'd be tempted to place the PJ on a table so is easy to access, reset to factory defaults, plug one item in with a short cable (or firestick direct) and take thing back to as basic as possible. See if THAT works, then build up slowly, with settings, items etc and find the point of failure that way.
> 
> If things don't work reliably in a really simple situation, then is it environmental or maybe something in shipping ?
> 
> Just trying to apply how I trouble shoot other things when I'm stumped. The amount of times I've found something I'd missed, often bleeding obvious, but going back to simple in a complex situation is a really useful thing!





AVRams said:


> Remove your surge suppressor, or use another AC outlet for testing.


Try to start it up from a regular wall power outlet (no surge, nothing additional) with no sources attached (no AVR or player or streaming or anything else), with the projector at all factory settings (no high altitude). Take everything out of the equation but the projector (and basic power) itself. You should get the Epson logo and then the home screen, ready for setup.


----------



## SAM1233

Dear all,
Is 6050UB at a discount price a worth buy now? will LS 11000 at MSRP out smart in a huge way?


----------



## Jmouse007

SAM1233 said:


> Dear all,
> Is 6050UB at a discount price a worth buy now? will LS 11000 at MSRP out smart in a huge way?


As an EPSON 6050UB owner I would whole heartedly encourage you to try and find a new or "lightly used" EPSON 6050UB. This is my 4th projector and it is the best projector I have ever owned.

If you are looking for the best bang for your buck the 6050UB is EXCEPTIONAL.

As for the ls series of projectors... I would hold off on buying one until the 2nd or 3rd generation before biting the bullet on buying an Epson laser projector. 

Wait until the first generation "bugs" are worked out (too many 1st generation early adopter Guinea pig horror stories, I also speak from personal experience) and when they finally have the contrast levels of the 6050UB and a genuine frame by frame tone mapping system that actually works well, then sell your EPSON 6050UB and upgrade your projector when it really is an upgrade... That's my plan.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

SAM1233 said:


> Dear all,
> Is 6050UB at a discount price a worth buy now? will LS 11000 at MSRP out smart in a huge way?


Let me put it this way. I have another one on order just because i love this projector so much.It is the best projector i have ever owned in the price range.
Also because no new ones have 3D and laser life is too short for my current usage.


----------



## apollocr

Good day everyone, I need a little help.

i am currently running a 5050ub, on a Sony STR-DH790, with a firestick and blu ray player. when I play movies, I get the 5 - 10 second of a black screen with audio going happens on Netflix, Disney, and when I hit play on Blu Ray. It will play the WHOLE film without cutting out just when I hit play on something is the only time it will do this. 
I figured it was the HDMI (current one was an Amazon basic 25’ one) so I went and purchased a new one (16’ speed of 24’ and certified as well) and the problem continues. 
i have my settings on expanded for HDMI on the projector as well as on the AVR. 
Before this I had a 2150 and it never would do this (huge upgrade I know I’m excited.) 

i plugged the Firestick directly into the Projector and it doesn’t do it so it might be a setting in the AVR but I’m not certain either it’s never done this.

it is extremely annoying to not just hit play and watch.
Any ideas on what could be caus


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

apollocr said:


> Good day everyone, I need a little help.
> 
> i am currently running a 5050ub, on a Sony STR-DH790, with a firestick and blu ray player. when I play movies, I get the 5 - 10 second of a black screen with audio going happens on Netflix, Disney, and when I hit play on Blu Ray. It will play the WHOLE film without cutting out just when I hit play on something is the only time it will do this.
> I figured it was the HDMI (current one was an Amazon basic 25’ one) so I went and purchased a new one (16’ speed of 24’ and certified as well) and the problem continues.
> i have my settings on expanded for HDMI on the projector as well as on the AVR.
> Before this I had a 2150 and it never would do this (huge upgrade I know I’m excited.)
> 
> i plugged the Firestick directly into the Projector and it doesn’t do it so it might be a setting in the AVR but I’m not certain either it’s never done this.
> 
> it is extremely annoying to not just hit play and watch.
> Any ideas on what could be caus


It is a HDMI framerate sync.. Nothing you can do about that except force a constant framerate,which in turn can result in judder.. I also experience it on my 6050 as i use the source framerate setting,so display has to sync whenever you change from say 23.976 to 24 to maybe ntsc and so on..

Here is a pretty good explanation about the RGB setting you use, enhanced/expanded vs limited, not sure if this could present a similar problem to the framerate sync black screen though RGB: Full vs. Limited – ReferenceHT


----------



## apollocr

Tsunamijhoe said:


> It is a HDMI framerate sync.. Nothing you can do about that except force a constant framerate,which in turn can result in judder.. I also experience it on my 6050 as i use the source framerate setting,so display has to sync whenever you change from say 23.976 to 24 to maybe ntsc and so on..
> 
> Here is a pretty good explanation about the RGB setting you use, enhanced/expanded vs limited, not sure if this could present a similar problem to the framerate sync black screen though RGB: Full vs. Limited – ReferenceHT
> 
> But for TV and projectors the setting limited should be used as i understand it at least.


Okay, that makes sense but if I have the same settings on my firestick when connected to the AVR to the projector and when I directly connect it the problem is eliminated.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

apollocr said:


> Okay, that makes sense but if I have the same settings on my firestick when connected to the AVR to the projector and when I directly connect it the problem is eliminated.


Your firestick is a playback device, correct? I am not familiar with those devices, but it sure sounds like avr either does not do pass through or tries to change input vs output. I also dont use streaming services so i cant attest to which output framerate they use, wether it is constant or changes to whatever the source is filmed/made in. 
I use a dune media streamer, and i get the same black screen with audio for 5 seconds whenever i switch from different framerates. 
My library consists exclusively of ripped DVD and Bluray which ranges in framerates from 23.976 to 29.97 so i am pretty confident what you are experiencing is similar,and should either be accepted or force a permanent framerate depending on what you watch the most. 
Last but not least, makr sure your hdmi cable actually works correctly and support your output settings. Could be as simple as that.


----------



## rekbones

apollocr said:


> Okay, that makes sense but if I have the same settings on my firestick when connected to the AVR to the projector and when I directly connect it the problem is eliminated.


Agree the 10 sec blank is normal I just live with it. Your 2150 had HDMI 1.4 as too why it synced faster. With HDMI 2.0 the sync times are far longer as there are so many different formats to go through. I can't explain why it works better with the FireTV connected directly but if the blank is so annoying why not leave it that way and use ARC back to your AVR.


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## jaredmwright

rekbones said:


> Agree the 10 sec blank is normal I just live with it. Your 2150 had HDMI 1.4 as too why it synced faster. With HDMI 2.0 the sync times are far longer as there are so many different formats to go through. I can't explain why it works better with the FireTV connected directly but if the blank is so annoying why not leave it that way and use ARC back to your AVR.


One of the benefits to a video processor inline with your HDMI sources is that you get near instantaneous switching between formats. This was something that I found quite annoying before I built my video processor PC. Hearing the audio and missing the first part of some video content was not a great experience. Consider looking into this in the future, it provides many other benefits to really make the projector shine for tone mapping and other capabilities like automatic zoom and more.


----------



## SAM1233

Jmouse007 said:


> As an EPSON 6050UB owner I would whole heartedly encourage you to try and find a new or "lightly used" EPSON 6050UB. This is my 4th projector and it is the best projector I have ever owned.
> 
> If you are looking for the best bang for your buck the 6050UB is EXCEPTIONAL.
> 
> As for the ls series of projectors... I would hold off on buying one until the 2nd or 3rd generation before biting the bullet on buying an Epson laser projector.
> 
> Wait until the first generation "bugs" are worked out (too many 1st generation early adopter Guinea pig horror stories, I also speak from personal experience) and when they finally have the contrast levels of the 6050UB and a genuine frame by frame tone mapping system that actually works well, then sell your EPSON 6050UB and upgrade your projector when it really is an upgrade... That's my plan.


Thats a great suggestion. I already got an open box item in excellent condition with just 800 hours on the lamp. But it did not have spare lamp or ceiling mount. So that did not stop me to buy. Its an awsome projector for the price. Thank you all for your excellent help and suggestions.


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## Jmouse007

SAM1233 said:


> Thats a great suggestion. I already got an open box item in excellent condition with just 800 hours on the lamp. But it did not have spare lamp or ceiling mount. So that did not stop me to buy. Its an awsome projector for the price. Thank you all for your excellent help and suggestions.


CONGRATULATIONS, you are going to really enjoy the EPSON 6050UB. It throws a wonderful picture. Great for movies, gaming, sports... Etc. Enjoy


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## PixelPusher15

I whipped out the 5050 again (gotta sell it soon...) to test out Dynamic mode and how the DI acts in that mode. Man, calibrating dynamic is kind of a nightmare for BT2020. I wanted to compare it to my x790 in its SDR2020 mode but I don't think I can. Maybe it's just the 5050s gamut without the filter isn't nearly large enough. Greyscale was easy enough but the CMS was brutal. I ended up just doing a rec709 calibration and I'll compare that to my SDR709 cal on my x790 (madVR is going to tone map everything for the comparison)

Anyone try a rec2020 calibration in Dynamic or even Natural with HCFR?

I will say that I understand the allure of using Dynamic. I tested it a smidge with Gravity and the contrast/depth was pretty substantial. Contrast pre-cal was up over 7000:1 but post cal it is right there with Natural at around 5000:1 after brightness matched.....actually wait, I believe Dynamic was in Eco and Natural was in Medium. Unfortunately, Epson doesn't allow us to adjust the iris in Dynamic when bulb is at medium. 

Anyway, some fun tests coming soon. There's a RS540 vs 5050 thread around here that I'lll probably post some results in.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> Anyone try a rec2020 calibration in Dynamic or even Natural with HCFR?
> 
> I will say that I understand the allure of using Dynamic. I tested it a smidge with Gravity and the contrast/depth was pretty substantial. Contrast pre-cal was up over 7000:1 but post cal it is right there with Natural at around 5000:1 after brightness matched.....actually wait, I believe Dynamic was in Eco and Natural was in Medium. Unfortunately, Epson doesn't allow us to adjust the iris in Dynamic when bulb is at medium.


YUP.....I use one for LLDV and yeah, it wasn't an easy thing to tame and you have to make some judgement calls in the CMS. I typically go for getting 75% good, whilst keeping 100/25 reasonable - Greyscale is like any other, though i also go for cuts low and boosts high to make the best of those contrast dynamics.

It can be quite surprising how much flexibility you have in calibration, i guess it is a little like driving somewhere, same destination, but there can be quite a few viable routes to get there - Also why i take a lot of calibrated review comparisons with a pinch of salt. Better than comparing uncalibrated, but far from equal metrics


----------



## Alaric

SAM1233 said:


> Dear all,
> Is 6050UB at a discount price a worth buy now? will LS 11000 at MSRP out smart in a huge way?


A good Question. The 6050 is a LOT cheaper to start with, let alone deals. The LS11000 has the laser, better 4K shifting, a bit more light, no HDR filter, but is closer to DCI P3 to start with. Probably better contrast on the 6050 and 3D if you care about that!

It's going to come down to choice and use case. Both are great projectors though and very good bang for the buck.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> YUP.....I use one for LLDV and yeah, it wasn't an easy thing to tame and you have to make some judgement calls in the CMS. I typically go for getting 75% good, whilst keeping 100/25 reasonable - Greyscale is like any other, though i also go for cuts low and boosts high to make the best of those contrast dynamics.
> 
> It can be quite surprising how much flexibility you have in calibration, i guess it is a little like driving somewhere, same destination, but there can be quite a few viable routes to get there - Also why i take a lot of calibrated review comparisons with a pinch of salt. Better than comparing uncalibrated, but far from equal metrics


There for sure are different ways to skin the calibration cat. 

I forgot the particulars but I noticed that I had made some gain/offset adjustments that got things equal but my peak white took a large hit and so did my contrast. I decided to nuke that path and start over. This time I made less adjustments and contrast/peak white took a more reasonable hit. If you didn't really know what you were doing then you easily could end up with a "calibrated" gimped picture.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you didn't really know what you were doing then you easily could end up with a "calibrated" gimped picture.


Ideal for 50 shades (terrible book, urgh movie and not being able to see would be a bonus  )


----------



## NxNW

The thing that jumped out at me when I measured dynamic mode with HCFR was the location of the blue primary was notably more saturated even with no filter in place. Not sure how they're doing that.


----------



## Alaric

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you didn't really know what you were doing then you easily could end up with a "calibrated" gimped picture.


As a slightly more serious side, TOTALLY possible. You really need to run some well known content through a calibration afterwards.....And also have an idea of what you are looking for as i've often heard of people new to calibrating things that are less keen on the calibrated image and need a little while to get used to the image....and you start to see more content etc and realise you didn't like the bright shop setting after all!


----------



## PixelPusher15

Alaric said:


> As a slightly more serious side, TOTALLY possible. You really need to run some well known content through a calibration afterwards.....And also have an idea of what you are looking for as i've often heard of people new to calibrating things that are less keen on the calibrated image and need a little while to get used to the image....and you start to see more content etc and realise you didn't like the bright shop setting after all!


Also just knowing what the projector is capable of. If you run a pre-cal sweep and see contrast is at something like 7000:1 and the balance is just slightly out of whack, you shouldn't end up with 3000:1 when you are done. Actually, my dE for post cal on the high end is around 2-2.5. If I tried to get that below 1 I'd have to cut the gains by a decent amount and I'd really hurt contrast. But why? It's barely noticeable. This is one thing that I didn't really have an issue with in Natural. I could pretty much chase perfection without hurting contrast too much.

Edit: now that I say that I wonder if I can go back to Natural and try to push green an blue a bit higher to match what dynamic looks like and then increase contrast in Medium lamp with a more closed iris....hmm


----------



## imapfsr

SAM1233 said:


> Dear all,
> Is 6050UB at a discount price a worth buy now? will LS 11000 at MSRP out smart in a huge way?


SAM1233,
Although not exactly answering your question I will say I have the 5050UB in a total light controlled room and purchased the LS11000 as I wanted the better 4k shifting and laser sharpness and color. Needless to say I have returned the LS11000. It was very nice but even with the latest firmware that apparently increases the clarity and sharpness I was VERY hard-pressed to visually see any difference between the two, especially for almost $4k Canadian difference if I was able to sell my used 5050UB for $1500 Canadian. I have never seen the 6050UB improved contrast but I know the 5050UB is pretty darn hard to beat and so the 6050 would obviously be next level. The only advantage I could see and remember we are talking about a projector and what it displays on the LS11000 was... nothing. Technically, the laser is obviously pretty cool and if I was starting from scratch I would likely go with the LS11000 if I had not seen the 5050UB as it is still the champ in my opinion...my two cents.


----------



## SAM1233

imapfsr said:


> SAM1233,
> Although not exactly answering your question I will say I have the 5050UB in a total light controlled room and purchased the LS11000 as I wanted the better 4k shifting and laser sharpness and color. Needless to say I have returned the LS11000. It was very nice but even with the latest firmware that apparently increases the clarity and sharpness I was VERY hard-pressed to visually see any difference between the two, especially for almost $4k Canadian difference if I was able to sell my used 5050UB for $1500 Canadian. I have never seen the 6050UB improved contrast but I know the 5050UB is pretty darn hard to beat and so the 6050 would obviously be next level. The only advantage I could see and remember we are talking about a projector and what it displays on the LS11000 was... nothing. Technically, the laser is obviously pretty cool and if I was starting from scratch I would likely go with the LS11000 if I had not seen the 5050UB as it is still the champ in my opinion...my two cents.


I totally agree, after I see the contrast and clarity of the 6050UB for a great discounted price..


----------



## StillAimless

Another 6050UB (9400 in EU) owner reporting in. I demoed a used Sony 695ES last week and had a professional calibrator try to get it calibrated past 6050UB's performance. He couldn't do it. Even with the measured 8K ON/OFF contrast the image was objectively worse than the Epson. We spoke about options and in his opinion this is the end-game for anything under 10K USD. The only alternative is a used RS540, but those are few in between and they themselves are a crapshoot. He said to skip ALL Sonys and consider RS2000+ / NZ3100+ as an (expensive) option as these are the only projectors that will guarantee all across the board improvements. NX5/NP5 are in his opinion side-grades. Wondering what others think about these statements?


----------



## Alaric

StillAimless said:


> Another 6050UB (9400 in EU) owner reporting in. I demoed a used Sony 695ES last week and had a professional calibrator try to get it calibrated past 6050UB's performance. He couldn't do it. Even with the measured 8K ON/OFF contrast the image was objectively worse than the Epson. We spoke about options and in his opinion this is the end-game for anything under 10K USD. The only alternative is a used RS540, but those are few in between and they themselves are a crapshoot. He said to skip ALL Sonys and consider RS2000+ / NZ3100+ as an (expensive) option as these are the only projectors that will guarantee all across the board improvements. NX5/NP5 are in his opinion side-grades. Wondering what others think about these statements?


As a 9400 owner i'm kinda happy with this 

There may be some confirmation bias on my part here, but the 9400 is VERY hard to beat for anywhere close to it's price. You CAN do better, but it is at that sweet spot on diminishing returns, you've got to pay a lot more, or go second hand and deal with older tech and expensive bulbs - The image my 9400 throws still blows me away after 3 years.

Add a vertex for LLDV for some cheap DV tone mapping, a MadVR or Lumagen are probably better and will get more performance from the PJ if you want better HDR - Treat your room (velvet walls etc) for better contrast, look at your sound system for better immersion. There's lots of upgrades that will probably give better bang for the buck before you actually need to go for a new PJ and be prepared to pay a big chunk for anything substantially better, with the current crop of machines.


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## SAM1233

my 6050ub main firmware version is flwwv100. New firmware version available as bin file from epson EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin.
Can i update to this firmware? Are there much improvements with this one?


----------



## rekbones

SAM1233 said:


> my 6050ub main firmware version is flwwv100. New firmware version available as bin file from epson EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin.
> Can i update to this firmware? Are there much improvements with this one?


Yes you can update it, 103 was a major upgrade, 104 was just an HDMI change on one port.


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## fredworld

SAM1233 said:


> my 6050ub main firmware version is flwwv100. New firmware version available as bin file from epson EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin.
> Can i update to this firmware? Are there much improvements with this one?





rekbones said:


> Yes you can update it, 103 was a major upgrade, 104 was just an HDMI change on one port.


In October '20 Epson emailed me that FW v.104, "_Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error.
Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it."_
As rekbones said, it applies only to HDMI 1.
I hope this helps.


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## SAM1233

I upgraded from 100 to 104 firmware. All went well. first time when i did, I kept pressing the power button after the all lights turned on which switched off the system. Next time, I released as soon as all lights came in. Then it updated. I do not know exactly what are the improvements for the major update of 103, but its good to have latest firmware. Any one know the changes for the major upgrade to 103. I could not find anywhere.


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## NxNW

There was a lot of talk about how 1.03 changed the way 4K enhancement worked. At certain frame rates. Apparently slightly finer detail is visible now in some situations. 

Honestly it's pretty Impressive they have only needed to release one or two firmware updates in all these years. I guess the 50x0 series is by now a pretty mature platform and there's not a lot of need for new features or bug fixes.


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## Sekosche

Quick screen opinion needed…

I’ve been using a 5050 the last two years with a silver ticket 106” high contrast (dark grey) .9 gain screen I brought from my last house that was more for 24/7 TV viewing with ambient light and an Epson 3700, but over the last two years in my dedicated, blacked out room and the 5050 offering a solid step up in black levels I’ve been considering swapping it for a white screen.

The front half of my room is totally covered in black velvet, all black carpet and seating, wrought iron paint (very dark grey), and we watch movies and game in total darkness. From everything I’ve read, a white screen is optimal for this type of viewing, and while I really enjoy the black levels I’m currently getting, whites and colors never seemed to pop as much as I feel they should for my minimal throw distance, even on medium lamp mode and the HDR slider at 5 for most films. To me, the jump to high lamp mode offers a nice bump in brightness and perceived contrast. Only 1300 hours on the bulb, and I’ve been very happy with the 5050 performance so far.

Should I grab a white 1.1 gain silver ticket screen? The only thing preventing me from swapping screens is how poor the blacks were on my old setup when I initially tried a white screen in a non light controlled room with an inferior PJ, which is what led me to get the high contrast screen, and at the time it really helped decrease ambient room reflections and maintain a deeper black level versus a white screen.

Thanks!


----------



## PixelPusher15

I believe I'm on team Dynamic now. 

I need more testing (planning to watch something on it tonight). But I like the more aggressive iris in Dynamic. I was able to calibrate it to an acceptable level for rec709 but BT2020 might be pointless. I put it head to head with my x790 and I preferred the 5050 the majority of the time. Now, my x790 has a dim bulb and I can't close its iris down to eek out more contrast so it isn't a fully fair fight. But calibrated Dynamic on the 5050 sure is fun. It really makes me wonder what the LS12000 in calibrated Dynamic is like. I'm hoping to see one soon compared to my 5050.


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## PixelPusher15

Sekosche said:


> Quick screen opinion needed…
> 
> I’ve been using a 5050 the last two years with a silver ticket 106” high contrast (dark grey) .9 gain screen I brought from my last house that was more for 24/7 TV viewing with ambient light and an Epson 3700, but over the last two years in my dedicated, blacked out room and the 5050 offering a solid step up in black levels I’ve been considering swapping it for a white screen.
> 
> The front half of my room is totally covered in black velvet, all black carpet and seating, wrought iron paint (very dark grey), and we watch movies and game in total darkness. From everything I’ve read, a white screen is optimal for this type of viewing, and while I really enjoy the black levels I’m currently getting, whites and colors never seemed to pop as much as I feel they should for my minimal throw distance, even on medium lamp mode and the HDR slider at 5 for most films. To me, the jump to high lamp mode offers a nice bump in brightness and perceived contrast. Only 1300 hours on the bulb, and I’ve been very happy with the 5050 performance so far.
> 
> Should I grab a white 1.1 gain silver ticket screen? The only thing preventing me from swapping screens is how poor the blacks were on my old setup when I initially tried a white screen in a non light controlled room with an inferior PJ, which is what led me to get the high contrast screen, and at the time it really helped decrease ambient room reflections and maintain a deeper black level versus a white screen.
> 
> Thanks!


It sounds like your room is very well treated. I'm usually more conservative as to when to go from a grey screen to a white screen but I think you might like a white screen in there. More brightness will also allow you to close down the iris to get more contrast. I went from a 0.5 gain screen to a 0.8 gain and actually maintained about the same level of nits off the screen but was able to close the iris. It brought my contrast from around 4k:1 to over 6K:1. It was a nice little bump.

Can you go larger? 106" is kinda small nowadays 😊


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## Jimmy2Shoes

PixelPusher15 said:


> 106" is kinda small nowadays


That's not what she said


----------



## NxNW

Sekosche said:


> Quick screen opinion needed…


I agree with PixelPusher (as usual).

I'm in the same boat: silver ticket gray screen in a room with black projection wall and ceiling. I'm also unsure whether i should consider a higher gain screen now that i have upgraded to the 5050 and native black level performance is improved.


There are a few things i can think of to deliberately lower the amount of light entering your eye, each with its own associated benefit (I'm not even considering the obvious benefit of reducing light for its own sake which is sometimes appropriate in scenarios where it's actually too bright and you're getting eye fatigue or whatever):

1 reduce Contrast setting to improve white balance performance near peak white

2 close manual iris to improve contrast ratio _and_ (importantly!) improve sharpness by reducing chromatic aberration

3 reduced lamp power to lower noise and extend lamp life

4 project onto a negative (<1) gain (ie 'gray') material to not only fight ambient light if there is any but also reduce 'room gain' (reflected light from surfaces in the room) even with no ambient light.


(4 often gets bundled together with a retroreflective material that increases gain for some seating positions at the expense of others.)

5 use a picture mode that employs the color filter to allow access to colors near the edges of the rec 2020/P3 color gamut

6 Watch anything in 3D which by definition must cut the amount of light (per eye) _at least_ in half, but in practice more than half due to the slightly tinted lenss material and the need for conservative synchronization timing (ie both shutters closed for a brief moment) to reduce cross talk

7 Increase screen size requiring you to spread the same light over a bigger area but allowing a bigger image

8 Place the projector far away for improved optics or because you need to accommodate some physical limitation of your room's placement options

( 7 and 8 are often interrelated)

9 temporarily zoom the projector wider to fill a wide screen for "widescreen" content

(9 is sort of a temporary form of 7)

You can use some or all of the above things. For each one you are trading away light in exchange for the associated benefit.

You have a fixed light budget.

Assuming 7 and 8 are sort of fixed once you mount the projector, you can probably only do one or two of the remaining ones before start to see noticeable dimming.

You are asking about #4

The answer is "depends on how many of the other things do you intend to do"

For normal SDR I would just stay with gray and all its benefits.

Also, reality check here: your "0.9 gain" screen is actually 0.6

See








Silver Ticket Screen?


yes it is. Check out General from the link you sent - General Important Notice The benefit as described below is available for purchases made with your card on or before September 21, 2019. This benefit is no longer available for purchases made on or after September 22, 2019.Hmmm.....that's...




www.avsforum.com




Beware marketing claims.


----------



## Stephen Shaw

Anyone reading here considering buying a 5050UB?

I've been considering one for a while but they're not in stock, Amazon has some at 4,000, everywhere else has no idea when any are coming in. I get how wonderful it is but I feel like i should move on to something else, isn't it almost 6 years old? I don't know much about other models, just that the 5050 was a bit of an easy call compared to everything else in the 3k range. If anyone else is in the same boat let me know your thoughts, I'm a bit lost.


----------



## Sekosche

Thanks all, think I’ll order a white one up to try out. I thought the high contrast screen seemed awfully dark for their rated .95 gain when their 1.1 white screen is just a bit more reflective based on those numbers (according to them), makes sense now after seeing the real world measurements.


----------



## Sekosche

Stephen Shaw said:


> Anyone reading here considering buying a 5050UB?
> 
> I've been considering one for a while but they're not in stock, Amazon has some at 4,000, everywhere else has no idea when any are coming in. I get how wonderful it is but I feel like i should move on to something else, isn't it almost 6 years old? I don't know much about other models, just that the 5050 was a bit of an easy call compared to everything else in the 3k range. If anyone else is in the same boat let me know your thoughts, I'm a bit lost.


The 5050UB is only 3 years now, but the previous model 5040 is 6 years old. There’s really nothing else remotely close in performance for $3K and under. The newest laser based LS1100 starts at $4K. Good luck snagging a 5050, they’ll hopefully restock everywhere soon.


----------



## fredworld

Stephen Shaw said:


> Anyone reading here considering buying a 5050UB?
> 
> .... I get how wonderful it is but I feel like i should move on to something else, isn't it almost 6 years old? ....


The 5050UB was released around April 2019. IMHO, there is still nothing that competes with it at $3k.


----------



## hms17B

NxNW said:


> I agree with PixelPusher (as usual).
> 
> I'm in the same boat: silver ticket gray screen in a room with black projection wall and ceiling. I'm also unsure whether i should consider a higher gain screen now that i have upgraded to the 5050 and native black level performance is improved.
> 
> 
> There are a few things i can think of to deliberately lower the amount of light entering your eye, each with its own associated benefit (I'm not even considering the obvious benefit of reducing light for its own sake which is sometimes appropriate in scenarios where it's actually too bright and you're getting eye fatigue or whatever):
> 
> 1 reduce Contrast setting to improve white balance performance near peak white
> 
> 2 close manual iris to improve contrast ratio _and_ (importantly!) improve sharpness by reducing chromatic aberration
> 
> 3 reduced lamp power to lower noise and extend lamp life
> 
> 4 project onto a negative (<1) gain (ie 'gray') material to not only fight ambient light if there is any but also reduce 'room gain' (reflected light from surfaces in the room) even with no ambient light.
> 
> 
> (4 often gets bundled together with a retroreflective material that increases gain for some seating positions at the expense of others.)
> 
> 5 use a picture mode that employs the color filter to allow access to colors near the edges of the rec 2020/P3 color gamut
> 
> 6 Watch anything in 3D which by definition must cut the amount of light (per eye) _at least_ in half, but in practice more than half due to the slightly tinted lenss material and the need for conservative synchronization timing (ie both shutters closed for a brief moment) to reduce cross talk
> 
> 7 Increase screen size requiring you to spread the same light over a bigger area but allowing a bigger image
> 
> 8 Place the projector far away for improved optics or because you need to accommodate some physical limitation of your room's placement options
> 
> ( 7 and 8 are often interrelated)
> 
> 9 temporarily zoom the projector wider to fill a wide screen for "widescreen" content
> 
> (9 is sort of a temporary form of 7)
> 
> You can use some or all of the above things. For each one you are trading away light in exchange for the associated benefit.
> 
> You have a fixed light budget.
> 
> Assuming 7 and 8 are sort of fixed once you mount the projector, you can probably only do one or two of the remaining ones before start to see noticeable dimming.
> 
> You are asking about #4
> 
> The answer is "depends on how many of the other things do you intend to do"
> 
> For normal SDR I would just stay with gray and all its benefits.
> 
> Also, reality check here: your "0.9 gain" screen is actually 0.6
> 
> See
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Silver Ticket Screen?
> 
> 
> yes it is. Check out General from the link you sent - General Important Notice The benefit as described below is available for purchases made with your card on or before September 21, 2019. This benefit is no longer available for purchases made on or after September 22, 2019.Hmmm.....that's...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beware marketing claims.


Lots of good points here. I've tried them, or at least approximated them, and what I find (so far) is...

Reduce Contrast - definitely helps with the whites, making more gradations visible, but only a few points down - too much and it gets dull-looking.
Manual Iris - definitely needed for good black level in dark scenes - trying all the way to -20 sometimes and it looks pretty good on my white screen, but I have to raise the Gamma setting to keep the mids from getting too dark.
Lamp Power - using Eco for SDR and Med for HDR, but might use Eco for both if I weren't cautious of lamp flicker, so I figure that maybe half-use on higher than Eco might help - High is just too noisy to use ever.
Screen Gain - my screen is old and I guess about 1 on gain but not exactly sure. Looks OK as is. Tried projecting on gray material and the blacks are lower but so is everything else - it seems to me that I notice the reduction in light on bright parts of the image more than on the dark parts so I'm reluctant to get a gray screen.
Picture Mode - Normal looks the best to my eyes, Cinema modes look dull no matter what else I adjust, Dynamic just looks wrong and adjustments don't make it look right - there's something unnatural about it that doesn't seem to go away. I can see color differences between Natural and Cinema with the filter - reds redder with the filter, but yellows seem better without - I suppose I could try to adjust but is it worth it when the starting point is inconsistent?
3D - don't use it so moot point for me.
Screen Size - can't go bigger in my room but can approximate it by projecting temporarily in another part of the house - up to almost 200" diagonal. Bigger image, longer distance, more zoom out - spreading out the image and the light makes the image dimmer, so blacks darker but also whites. But when all is dimmer the blacks don't actually look so much darker than in the smaller image - guess it's relative perception. So it seems that a bigger image might not help as much as hoped for with black level perception.
see 7
see 7


----------



## tony123

Stephen Shaw said:


> Anyone reading here considering buying a 5050UB?
> 
> I've been considering one for a while but they're not in stock, Amazon has some at 4,000, everywhere else has no idea when any are coming in. I get how wonderful it is but I feel like i should move on to something else, isn't it almost 6 years old? I don't know much about other models, just that the 5050 was a bit of an easy call compared to everything else in the 3k range. If anyone else is in the same boat let me know your thoughts, I'm a bit lost.


I purchased direct through Epson refurb. I see they have them available right now.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> I believe I'm on team Dynamic now.
> 
> I need more testing (planning to watch something on it tonight). But I like the more aggressive iris in Dynamic. I was able to calibrate it to an acceptable level for rec709 but BT2020 might be pointless. I put it head to head with my x790 and I preferred the 5050 the majority of the time. Now, my x790 has a dim bulb and I can't close its iris down to eek out more contrast so it isn't a fully fair fight. But calibrated Dynamic on the 5050 sure is fun. It really makes me wonder what the LS12000 in calibrated Dynamic is like. I'm hoping to see one soon compared to my 5050.


What sort of things did you adjust with Dynamic to get it looking acceptable? I can make brightness, contrast, color, the usual adjustments but there's still something that looks wrong about it. Can't quite explain it. Maybe hidden settings that we can't touch? I've noticed this on previous displays I've had - dynamic (vivid, whatever) just never looked right on any of them.


----------



## boater5

I see they have new 5050ub listed on epson got a email saying they were in stock but I have just ordered the ls11000 from bestbuy.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> What sort of things did you adjust with Dynamic to get it looking acceptable? I can make brightness, contrast, color, the usual adjustments but there's still something that looks wrong about it. Can't quite explain it. Maybe hidden settings that we can't touch? I've noticed this on previous displays I've had - dynamic (vivid, whatever) just never looked right on any of them.


lots of greyscale adjustments. It pushes greed hard. I believe I had to make some substantial CMS changes too. It's really not a mode built for accuracy and I'm not sure copying settings would apply but next time I have it running I can copy them down so others can try. There's going to be a massive asterisk on it though. But Dynamic is so off to start that I can't imagine copying someones settings would make it worse than the defaults.


----------



## PastorGreg

Hi!

Need your thoughts on something that I am sure has been discussed previously. I find SDR so much better and easier to get a good picture than HDR, so using HDFURY Arcana, I am scaling4k60 4:2:2 SDR, thus making my video chain think the display is SDR only! I am also using a Madvr HTPC for Kodi and Nvidia Shield, and for both, SDR seems to work best! Brighter and more vibrant colors. 

Am I missing something, or doing something stupid here?

Your thoughts please!


----------



## PastorGreg

And of course, this is feeding a Epson 6050. Set to Natural or Digital Cinema.


----------



## PixelPusher15

PastorGreg said:


> Hi!
> 
> Need your thoughts on something that I am sure has been discussed previously. I find SDR so much better and easier to get a good picture than HDR, so using HDFURY Arcana, I am scaling4k60 4:2:2 SDR, thus making my video chain think the display is SDR only! I am also using a Madvr HTPC for Kodi and Nvidia Shield, and for both, SDR seems to work best! Brighter and more vibrant colors.
> 
> Am I missing something, or doing something stupid here?
> 
> Your thoughts please!


You’re not missing anything. HDR tone mapping is good on the 5050 but not great by 2022 standards. A couple notes though. Are you tone mapping HDR to SDR in MadVR? That’ll get you the best HDR. If you can use Digital Cinema (not too dim with the filter) then tone map in madVR to SDR and set your display calibration to BT2020. Or if using Natural then just use rec709. 

Have you tried LLDV on the Arcana? You can spoof your players into thinking your display is LLDV capable and it will tone map HDR on the device. I had so-so luck with this but others swear by it. 

I’m guessing you’ve played with the HDR slider?


----------



## PastorGreg

PixelPusher15 said:


> You’re not missing anything. HDR tone mapping is good on the 5050 but not great by 2022 standards. A couple notes though. Are you tone mapping HDR to SDR in MadVR? That’ll get you the best HDR. If you can use Digital Cinema (not too dim with the filter) then tone map in madVR to SDR and set your display calibration to BT2020. Or if using Natural then just use rec709.
> 
> Have you tried LLDV on the Arcana? You can spoof your players into thinking your display is LLDV capable and it will tone map HDR on the device. I had so-so luck with this but others swear by it.
> 
> I’m guessing you’ve played with the HDR slider?


Thanks! Yes, I think am using Madvr HDR to SDR. I think to do this, all I need to do it have the right tone mapping setting in hdr in Madvr? Correct? And I do have the display set to BT2020 when DC, and rec709 in Natural. However, it seem like Madvr is always defaulting to rec709, which I think is right because it is feeding the display SDR?

I played around with the LLDV for the Shield, which is making it think my display is DV compatible now.


----------



## PixelPusher15

PastorGreg said:


> Thanks! Yes, I think am using Madvr HDR to SDR. I think to do this, all I need to do it have the right tone mapping setting in hdr in Madvr? Correct? And I do have the display set to BT2020 when DC, and rec709 in Natural. However, it seem like Madvr is always defaulting to rec709, which I think is right because it is feeding the display SDR?
> 
> I played around with the LLDV for the Shield, which is making it think my display is DV compatible now.


So you might want to go here for madVR configurations. If HDR doesn't look good through madVR then its most likely a misconfiguration. It should look great. 
madVR Player Support Thread 

For the LLDV stuff you have to play with the nit settings. Check out this thread:








Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on...


Dolby Vision, including HDR10 conversion w/ DTM on Projectors? This is a HDFury DV LLDV EDID exploit of the Dolby Vision Profile 5 layer included in the DV spec for display manufacturers and models like the Sony A1 OLED. This thread is duplicating Dave's experience using the HDFury Vertex...




www.avsforum.com





I'm not familiar with the Arcana setup procedure so I can't tell you specifically what to do but there's help available. Since you have a madVR HTPC setup then there's also the option of trying out VideoProcessor and a HDMI capture card to allow madVR to tone map all of your sources. The setup isn't the cleanest but it's an option and its what I do. Here's the thread on that:








VideoProcessor


VideoProcessor turns a computer into a 4k HDR capable live video processor by connecting a video capture card to a renderer and taking care of details such as conversion, timing and HDR metadata. This allows advanced renderers to do things like 3D LUT, HDR tone mapping, scaling, deinterlacing...




www.avsforum.com





All that being said. Chasing HDR perfection can be a hassle. If you are satisfied with tricking your system into SDR mode then just be satisfied with that.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> lots of greyscale adjustments. It pushes greed hard. I believe I had to make some substantial CMS changes too. It's really not a mode built for accuracy and I'm not sure copying settings would apply but next time I have it running I can copy them down so others can try. There's going to be a massive asterisk on it though. But Dynamic is so off to start that I can't imagine copying someones settings would make it worse than the defaults.


I agree that one can't just copy another's settings. When I tried Dynamic, after playing around with some gray/color, not measured but just to see how it could be modified to look different, it still never looked right, and it wasn't just the gray or colors. It just looked kind of weird. There seems to be something contrasty(?) about it that doesn't change with the contrast or other adjustments. Whatever that means, but I can't think of any other way to describe it. Always good to hear about alternative things, though, even if they might not pan out.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> I agree that one can't just copy another's settings. When I tried Dynamic, after playing around with some gray/color, not measured but just to see how it could be modified to look different, it still never looked right, and it wasn't just the gray or colors. It just looked kind of weird. There seems to be something contrasty(?) about it that doesn't change with the contrast or other adjustments. Whatever that means, but I can't think of any other way to describe it. Always good to hear about alternative things, though, even if they might not pan out.


So when calibrating my 100% white field still was a tad green but 0-90IRE looked really good. This was only really noticeable when comparing it directly to my calibrated x790. I decided to leave the slight green push (under 3dE) at 100IRE so that I could have more brightness to throw at the manual iris. I believe some of the secondary colors were way, way off. Basically, there were a lot of changes needed to get it in line and I'm not sure just tweaking it by eye would get you there.


----------



## DigitalAV

Currently giving Dynamic calibration a go by eye. So far some success, really looks good with SDR 709 at least. Need to watch more content to really see the contrast benefits. Will post settings soon (note screen material is ALR 1.4). Cool story, DigitalAV


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> So when calibrating my 100% white field still was a tad green but 0-90IRE looked really good. This was only really noticeable when comparing it directly to my calibrated x790. I decided to leave the slight green push (under 3dE) at 100IRE so that I could have more brightness to throw at the manual iris. I believe some of the secondary colors were way, way off. Basically, there were a lot of changes needed to get it in line and I'm not sure just tweaking it by eye would get you there.


I may be wrong, but I suspect that these picture modes have hidden settings that cannot be overridden nor fully compensated for in the user menu.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> I may be wrong, but I suspect that these picture modes have hidden settings that cannot be overridden nor fully compensated for in the user menu.


Natural vs Dynamic (bottom): 









There's larger errors with Dynamic but most people wouldn't pick them up. The more aggressive DI is worth it to me. With more time I could get these down too. They were worse about 15 minutes ago but spent a few minutes on it just for you


----------



## mrpikwik

I get "No Signal" when I try to use "Enhanced (default)" 4K/8K Signal Format setting on my Denon AVR6700X connected to my 5050UB via a 50 ft. HDMI cable (HDR10 8/10bit 18Gbps HDCP2.2); my source is a Sony UBP-X700 blu ray player connected to the AVR w/ high speed HDMI. I get the same message no matter which HDMI input I use (CBL/Sat, Blu Ray). I only get audio & video signal if I change that setting to "Standard". 

The projector has "EDID" set to 'Expanded'.

Can anyone suggest a fix? Is it my HDMI cable - or is there a setting in the AVR or Projector I'm missing?


----------



## NxNW

It's always the cables


----------



## fredworld

mrpikwik said:


> I get "No Signal" when I try to use "Enhanced (default)" 4K/8K Signal Format setting on my Denon AVR6700X connected to my 5050UB via a 50 ft. HDMI cable (HDR10 8/10bit 18Gbps HDCP2.2); my source is a Sony UBP-X700 blu ray player connected to the AVR w/ high speed HDMI. I get the same message no matter which HDMI input I use (CBL/Sat, Blu Ray). I only get audio & video signal if I change that setting to "Standard".
> 
> The projector has "EDID" set to 'Expanded'.
> 
> Can anyone suggest a fix? Is it my HDMI cable - or is there a setting in the AVR or Projector I'm missing?





NxNW said:


> It's always the cables


Yup! What he said. At that length you should be using an "active" HDMI cable.
Look to *Blue Jeans* or *MyCableMart*.


----------



## Jeremy….

Pretorian said:


> Does that mean I should be looking at a regular grey screen? I would like to get rid of the "sparkles" my high contras screen gives.


The sparkles ✨ are most likely an issue with your receiver not passing through video bit rate properly. My new anthem MRX-1140 can’t pass through 12bit video without having sparkles/white dots everywhere. Known issue by anthem but not contained in their info documents/user manual. See if turning down your video setting helps


----------



## SAM1233

Hi All,
Some starter questions, since i got recently the 6050ub. trying to learn the settings.
1)Faced one scenario. My oppo player was playing already, that means hdmi started passsing the video to the projector when it is off, Audio playing through speakers. When I turned on the projector, the usual bulb warming displaying EPSON on the screen and then after that it displayed images with greenish tone and then it got adjusted to normal after a second or two. is it normal?
2)I am trying two cables for 50 feet receiver to projector, 
*RUIPRO HDMI Ultra Thin Fiber Optic Cable 50ft 4K 60Hz HDMI 2.0b Cable High Speed 18Gbps HDMI Cord Support HDR10 HDCP2.2 YUV4:4:4 15m
This comes with hdmi power adapter.*








Amazon.com: RUIPRO HDMI Ultra Thin Fiber Optic Cable 50ft 4K 60Hz HDMI 2.0b Cable High Speed 18Gbps HDMI Cord Support HDR10 HDCP2.2 YUV4:4:4 15m : Industrial & Scientific


Buy RUIPRO HDMI Ultra Thin Fiber Optic Cable 50ft 4K 60Hz HDMI 2.0b Cable High Speed 18Gbps HDMI Cord Support HDR10 HDCP2.2 YUV4:4:4 15m: Industrial & Scientific - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





*Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m phoossno Gen1 HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC*








Amazon.com: phoossno Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m Gen1 HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Musical Instruments


Amazon.com: phoossno Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m Gen1 HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Musical Instruments



www.amazon.com




Trying to choose which one is better, costs almost same 10$ish difference. I do not see any difference but both of them heats up on the plugs. Which one do you think is better.
3)Trying the Amazon firestick 4k max to feed in 4k content to the projector via the denon 4520ci receiver. projector info always says 1080p 4:4:4 sdr. I turned off video conversion in the receiver so the native 4k from firstick goes. tried 4k videos from the firestick. receiver has 4k passthrough. can it not send 4k content directly to projector?
4) How can I test the projector for the 4k 60hz content or 4k 24hz content with these cables.

Thank you


----------



## fredworld

SAM1233 said:


> Hi All,
> Some starter questions, since i got recently the 6050ub. trying to learn the settings.
> 1)Faced one scenario. My oppo player was playing already, that means hdmi started passsing the video to the projector when it is off, Audio playing through speakers. When I turned on the projector, the usual bulb warming displaying EPSON on the screen and then after that it displayed images with greenish tone and then it got adjusted to normal after a second or two. is it normal?
> 2)I am trying two cables for 50 feet receiver to projector,
> *RUIPRO HDMI Ultra Thin Fiber Optic Cable 50ft 4K 60Hz HDMI 2.0b Cable High Speed 18Gbps HDMI Cord Support HDR10 HDCP2.2 YUV4:4:4 15m
> This comes with hdmi power adapter.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: RUIPRO HDMI Ultra Thin Fiber Optic Cable 50ft 4K 60Hz HDMI 2.0b Cable High Speed 18Gbps HDMI Cord Support HDR10 HDCP2.2 YUV4:4:4 15m : Industrial & Scientific
> 
> 
> Buy RUIPRO HDMI Ultra Thin Fiber Optic Cable 50ft 4K 60Hz HDMI 2.0b Cable High Speed 18Gbps HDMI Cord Support HDR10 HDCP2.2 YUV4:4:4 15m: Industrial & Scientific - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m phoossno Gen1 HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: phoossno Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m Gen1 HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Musical Instruments
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: phoossno Certified 8K Fiber Optical HDMI 2.1 Cable Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps 50ft 15m Gen1 HDR eARC HDCP2.2 2.3 Support 4K 120Hz 8K60Hz Compatible with PS5 Xbox TV Monitor PC : Musical Instruments
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trying to choose which one is better, costs almost same 10$ish difference. I do not see any difference but both of them heats up on the plugs. Which one do you think is better.
> 3)Trying the Amazon firestick 4k max to feed in 4k content to the projector via the denon 4520ci receiver. projector info always says 1080p 4:4:4 sdr. I turned off video conversion in the receiver so the native 4k from firstick goes. tried 4k videos from the firestick. receiver has 4k passthrough. can it not send 4k content directly to projector?
> 4) How can I test the projector for the 4k 60hz content or 4k 24hz content with these cables.
> 
> Thank you


1) NTW, that's normal...as long as proper color does kick in.
2) I've never had active HDMI cables that heated. I used 49' and 35' Titan and Redmere Elite cables that did not heat up. I suspect an issue there.
3) Might be a question for one of the Denon threads. Your 4520CI is HDMI 1.4a so I don't think it does 60hz.
4) See 3. You'll need a 60hz source bypassing the Denon and connected directly to the Epson. Just about any UHD disc is 24hz, so try one to see.


----------



## fredworld

Pretorian said:


> Does that mean I should be looking at a regular grey screen? I would like to get rid of the "sparkles" my high contras screen gives.





Jeremy…. said:


> The sparkles ✨ are most likely an issue with your receiver not passing through video bit rate properly. My new anthem MRX-1140 can’t pass through 12bit video without having sparkles/white dots everywhere. Known issue by anthem but not contained in their info documents/user manual. See if turning down your video setting helps


The sparkling could be the receiver's improper output. Years ago I corrected my Integra's sparkling with an inexpensive HDMI extender at the display end but I would bet that @Pretorian knows his screen. Certain screens can sparkle to varying degrees, often based on viewing angle where one might see the sparkle from the MLP while someone off axis doesn't or sees it in different areas.
My old gray screen had very minimal sparkle, only a few spots, but my current screen has none.


----------



## Gjlloyd

Enchy said:


> Is image processing set to fine or fast? Set to fast the input lag is pretty easy to handle. I use my projector about 50% for gaming and I've never had issues with lag.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, dust buildup on the internal light path somewhere. There's some home remedies posted here and around the internet, but none of them have worked for me. If you're in warranty, return it. If you're not you'll have to disassemble the projector and clean off the LCD panels. I have one in the exact same spot you described but I'm out of warranty so I'll be disassembling mine at some point for a cleaning.


So.... just got my replacement (refurb) from Epson.. and it has TWO BLOBS!... so much for quality control! So is this inevitable for all 5050s? sooner or later they start to exhibit blobs?

thanks


----------



## fredworld

Gjlloyd said:


> So.... just got my replacement (refurb) from Epson.. and it has TWO BLOBS!... so much for quality control! So is this inevitable for all 5050s? sooner or later they start to exhibit blobs?
> 
> thanks


That appears to be mostly a correct statement. There are many posts in this thread about dust blobs and more about problems with refurbs. *My story*, I think, is typical but others went to much greater lengths to resolve various refurb issues. I'm living with my dust blobs. Someday I'll pay to have it serviced or learn to clean it myself.
The LCD panels are not a sealed system so as to allow air flow for cooling. Dust intrusion is inevitable. Having said all that there is still no better performance or features in the $3k price range.


----------



## mrpikwik

fredworld said:


> Yup! What he said. At that length you should be using an "active" HDMI cable.
> Look to *Blue Jeans* or *MyCableMart*.


You were correct! I got an active (optical) HDMI and I can now set my AVR to "Enhanced" 4K signal format with HDR. Thanks!


----------



## luisalbertokid

Hello all, greetings from Brazil! 🇧🇷 🇧🇷 🇧🇷
has anyone had problems with dust blobs on their Epsons 5040/5050? I have a white spot on my 5040 (looks like a light spill on the lens, visible only in dark scenes), and Epson people told me that nothing can be done about it, because only the engineers in Japan have the tools and the knowledge to dismantle the projector and clean it internally. I have a hard time believing that such a mundane problem doesn't have a fix (a dust blob in such an expensive and sophisticated machine has no fix??? 🤔). 
Does anyone know something about that? Any help would be most welcome! 😃
Thanks a lot!


----------



## Porknz

Okay, Pandora's box here, but I'm going to ask anyway. I've owned the projector for a few years now. We have been happily enjoying it. Tonight we were watching Stranger Things Season 4, and it was just dark in a lot of scenes. Be nice to me, but I went into the settings and looked for a way to brighten things up, and there seem to be a plethora of settings to mess around with. Everything was set to '50'. I managed to just click on a brighter mode that bumped the brightness up to 65, which seemed to do more than just adjusting the setting to 65 manually.

This seems like a rabbit hole to jump down, getting into settings for the projector, but...any direction here? 

Thanks.


----------



## rekbones

luisalbertokid said:


> Hello all, greetings from Brazil! 🇧🇷 🇧🇷 🇧🇷
> has anyone had problems with dust blobs on their Epsons 5040/5050? I have a white spot on my 5040 (looks like a light spill on the lens, visible only in dark scenes), and Epson people told me that nothing can be done about it, because only the engineers in Japan have the tools and the knowledge to dismantle the projector and clean it internally. I have a hard time believing that such a mundane problem doesn't have a fix (a dust blob in such an expensive and sophisticated machine has no fix??? 🤔).
> Does anyone know something about that? Any help would be most welcome! 😃
> Thanks a lot!


It's Epson policy, and most projector manufactures, to treat the light engine as a replaceable non serviceable unit. Any defect in it including dust blobs it is just replaced. Of course disassembling a light engine will need very special alignment jigs to correctly align it. The fact is these most often can be successfully cleaned without disassembly just not part of Epson's repair policy.


----------



## mrpikwik

I've been trying to pair my 3D glasses (*XPAND X105-RF-X1* ) with my Epson 5050UB, but I can't tell if it's working. Will I see an on screen prompt if/when the glasses are paired with the projector?


----------



## NxNW

Porknz said:


> This seems like a rabbit hole to jump down


Yep. 

By any chance were you watching an HDR stream of stranger things ? Brightening up HDR generally calls for different strategies than just cranking contrast. 

Hard to tell what is specifically improving the image when you change picture modes since each mode maintains a memory of the most recent settings of all the adjustable controls in addition to the non adjustable differences.


----------



## Porknz

NxNW said:


> Yep.
> 
> By any chance were you watching an HDR stream of stranger things ? Brightening up HDR generally calls for different strategies than just cranking contrast.
> 
> Hard to tell what is specifically improving the image when you change picture modes since each mode maintains a memory of the most recent settings of all the adjustable controls in addition to the non adjustable differences.


Yes, HDR of stranger things I assume.

I think they seemed to all be at 50 across the board when I was moving between them. I've never adjusted any of them I guess (though I thought there was some adjustment when you set the projector up the first time). The one mode I tried (bright cinema or something similar) was 65 for brightness and seemed to make a difference.

I read somewhere that some of the modes sacrifice like 50% of the brightness for quality, which I'm okay with, but makes me feel like there is some work to do with some of these settings if I can get some help with how.


----------



## fredworld

Porknz said:


> Yes, HDR of stranger things I assume.
> 
> I think they seemed to all be at 50 across the board when I was moving between them. I've never adjusted any of them I guess (though I thought there was some adjustment when you set the projector up the first time). The one mode I tried (bright cinema or something similar) was 65 for brightness and seemed to make a difference.
> 
> I read somewhere that some of the modes sacrifice like 50% of the brightness for quality, which I'm okay with, but makes me feel like there is some work to do with some of these settings if I can get some help with how.


It sounds to me that you're running on the default-out-of-the-box settings. That's fine for many. But I'll just chime in with my usual mantra by posting *this link of mine*.
But since I made that post I'm now using Natural mode as explained in *this later post*.


----------



## Porknz

fredworld said:


> It sounds to me that you're running on the default-out-of-the-box settings. That's fine for many. But I'll just chime in with my usual mantra by posting *this link of mine*.
> But since I made that post I'm now using Natural mode as explained in *this later post*.


Yes, default out of the box settings. And yes it's been fine, but after a few years, it seems like it could be tweaked. Seems like something I can learn. There are brightness benefits to the 'natural' setting correct, but also negatives? I'll click on the link.


----------



## Porknz

Porknz said:


> Yes, default out of the box settings. And yes it's been fine, but after a few years, it seems like it could be tweaked. Seems like something I can learn. There are brightness benefits to the 'natural' setting correct, but also negatives? I'll click on the link.


Remind me, I think I've looked at this disc before, and then been thrown by the idea that I can't use a lot of it because it's for pros with equipment I don't have. Is it worth it for what a home owner with no equipment can do?


----------



## fredworld

Porknz said:


> Yes, default out of the box settings. And yes it's been fine, but after a few years, it seems like it could be tweaked. Seems like something I can learn. There are brightness benefits to the 'natural' setting correct, but also negatives? I'll click on the link.


Could also be that your lamp has aged to the point where it's below the 50% loss of brightness.


----------



## Porknz

fredworld said:


> Could also be that your lamp has aged to the point where it's below the 50% loss of brightness.


Could be. Is there a way to check hours on a bulb? Any how many hours should I get out of a bulb? I haven't replaced one yet, but I keep seeing people who have end up with dust problems, so that scares me.  What is this HDR/UHD slider I keep seeing written about as well?


----------



## fredworld

Porknz said:


> Could be. Is there a way to check hours on a bulb? Any how many hours should I get out of a bulb? I haven't replaced one yet, but I keep seeing people who have end up with dust problems, so that scares me.  What is this HDR/UHD slider I keep seeing written about as well?


The lamp hours are in the INFO screen. Lamp life is dependent on hours of use in High, Medium and Eco modes as well as manufacturing variances, frequency of turn-on/off cycles. I had a lamp begin failing around 1000 hours that Epson replaced. Generally, expect 2500 to 3500 hours, give or take a few hundred. Having said that a buddy of mine replaced the lamp in his 5020UB after 10 years of near daily use several hours at a time.
The HDR slider is accessible via the remote and, in a nutshell, used to brighten dim looking HDR source material.
Sounds like you need a good study of the Owners Manual.


----------



## fredworld

Porknz said:


> Remind me, I think I've looked at this disc before, and then been thrown by the idea that I can't use a lot of it because it's for pros with equipment I don't have. Is it worth it for what a home owner with no equipment can do?


I have no equipment other than my eyeballs and endorse it.


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## PixelPusher15

Here’s my HDR custom gamma that was requested awhile ago. If I were to copy this I’d smooth things out a bit. I’m pretty sure it’s being combined with my greyscale adjustments which you won’t have. If you do try these then make sure you play with the HDR slider afterward. I set this curve with the slider at 6 and I targeted 1000 nits but my iris setting, screen size, gain, etc will impact that.


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## luisalbertokid

rekbones said:


> It's Epson policy, and most projector manufactures, to treat the light engine as a replaceable non serviceable unit. Any defect in it including dust blobs it is just replaced. Of course disassembling a light engine will need very special alignment jigs to correctly align it. The fact is these most often can be successfully cleaned without disassembly just not part of Epson's repair policy.


Good to know that. Thanks! 👍


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## mrpikwik

mrpikwik said:


> I've been trying to pair my 3D glasses (*XPAND X105-RF-X1* ) with my Epson 5050UB, but I can't tell if it's working. Will I see an on screen prompt if/when the glasses are paired with the projector?


I did see an on screen message when I finally successfully paired the glasses withy my projector. The instructions that come with the glasses are incorrect. Someone in Amazon reviews aid you have to press the power button once to turn them on, then hold the power button until they pair; that worked great - very fast! 3D looks pretty cool - but I may have to tweak some setting to get the best 3D picture...


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Natural vs Dynamic (bottom):
> View attachment 3286487
> 
> 
> There's larger errors with Dynamic but most people wouldn't pick them up. The more aggressive DI is worth it to me. With more time I could get these down too. They were worse about 15 minutes ago but spent a few minutes on it just for you


You got me with "more aggressive DI". I'm going to have to take another look at Dynamic. What gets to me most is the black level on really dark scenes - the biggest deficiency to my eyes.


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## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Here’s my HDR custom gamma that was requested awhile ago. If I were to copy this I’d smooth things out a bit. I’m pretty sure it’s being combined with my greyscale adjustments which you won’t have. If you do try these then make sure you play with the HDR slider afterward. I set this curve with the slider at 6 and I targeted 1000 nits but my iris setting, screen size, gain, etc will impact that.


I played around a little with Custom too but didn't stick with it. I've been using +1 or +2, since 0, -1, -2 with the manual iris down seem too dark. But will now try Custom again. Not certain about the higher end yet, but the lowest end definitely needs to be down with the 2nd setting up a bit from that.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> I played around a little with Custom too but didn't stick with it. I've been using +1 or +2, since 0, -1, -2 with the manual iris down seem too dark. But will now try Custom again. Not certain about the higher end yet, but the lowest end definitely needs to be down with the 2nd setting up a bit from that.


I forgot to mention this is with me hitting about 65 nits as I recall. It was a while ago that I made this curve and it was for Natural with an iris setting of -11 in Medium power.. I've got a 0.8 gain 123" screen for a point of reference. I'm going to try to do it again for dynamic sometime soon.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

mrpikwik said:


> I've been trying to pair my 3D glasses (*XPAND X105-RF-X1* ) with my Epson 5050UB, but I can't tell if it's working. Will I see an on screen prompt if/when the glasses are paired with the projector?


Yes you will.. There will be a popup with battery level also


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## termite

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Yes you will.. There will be a popup with battery level also


 Interesting .. I have this glasses and been using it every week for the last 2 years with my 5050UB. Never saw any notice or pop-up. To pair, all I have to do is to quickly press and release the button on the glasses (just once) when the projector is beaming a 3D image..


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## Tsunamijhoe

termite said:


> Interesting .. I have this glasses and been using it every week for the last 2 years with my 5050UB. Never saw any notice or pop-up. To pair, all I have to do is to quickly press and release the button on the glasses (just once) when the projector is beaming a 3D image..


The popup only comes first time you pair it, and subsequently if you need to pair again, popup does not happen every time you turn glasses on. I have both xpand, samsung and hishock


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## mrpikwik

There was definitely an on screen notification the first time I successfully paired my *XPAND X105-RF-X1* 3D glasses to my Epson 5050UB projector. Maybe they added it in recent firmware?


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## ProcyonOne

My 3 month old 5050 is exhibiting what I call “lens creep”. I can line up the image perfectly on the screen and over time it drifts out of alignment- usually with the image dropping down a bit - Nobody else in the family notices it but me - It moves maybe 1/2 inch or so. I always correct it when it happens so not sure if it would continue dropping over time. The projector is ceiling mounted with a Chief mount. Is this a known issue or do I have a problem with my PJ?

Thanks


----------



## WynsWrld98

ProcyonOne said:


> My 3 month old 5050 is exhibiting what I call “lens creep”. I can line up the image perfectly on the screen and over time it drifts out of alignment- usually with the image dropping down a bit - Nobody else in the family notices it but me - It moves maybe 1/2 inch or so. I always correct it when it happens so not sure if it would continue dropping over time. The projector is ceiling mounted with a Chief mount. Is this a known issue or do I have a problem with my PJ?
> 
> Thanks


People walking on floor above can be enough to vibrate some part of the mount itself or where mounted to ceiling from my experience. All you can do is make sure all connections including to your ceiling are tight.


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## fredworld

ProcyonOne said:


> My 3 month old 5050 is exhibiting what I call “lens creep”. I can line up the image perfectly on the screen and over time it drifts out of alignment- usually with the image dropping down a bit - Nobody else in the family notices it but me - It moves maybe 1/2 inch or so. I always correct it when it happens so not sure if it would continue dropping over time. The projector is ceiling mounted with a Chief mount. Is this a known issue or do I have a problem with my PJ?
> 
> Thanks





WynsWrld98 said:


> People walking on floor above can be enough to vibrate some part of the mount itself or where mounted to ceiling from my experience. All you can do is make sure all connections including to your ceiling are tight.


If you're sure it's not the mount shifting, then when readjusting the lens position be sure your last few movements are in the same direction. If you overshoot then back off and move to where it should be. Don't just back up to the position. There are posts about how to secure lens position and such much earlier in this thread.
EDIT: see *these posts* for some advice.


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## Maineiac12

ProcyonOne said:


> My 3 month old 5050 is exhibiting what I call “lens creep”. I can line up the image perfectly on the screen and over time it drifts out of alignment- usually with the image dropping down a bit - Nobody else in the family notices it but me - It moves maybe 1/2 inch or so. I always correct it when it happens so not sure if it would continue dropping over time. The projector is ceiling mounted with a Chief mount. Is this a known issue or do I have a problem with my PJ?
> 
> Thanks


I’ve been having this problem with mine since day 1. I’m going to try the lens locking mentioned in the last post and see if that helps.


----------



## NxNW

Cacitems4sale said:


> All, I recently purchased a 6050 and intermittently when I start the projector there left half of the picture is normal color and right half is green color. It usually works itself out within about 2 minutes. Is this normal, a setting I can adjust, or is this an issue with the projector? Any help would be great. Thanks


 Happened to me a couple times (see attached). Forcing a HDMI resync usually clears it up. As others have noted, I've only ever observed it in the first few minutes after turning on the projector.


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## jppe

What's the current situation (June 2022) for purchasing good bulbs in the US for the 5050UB? I know there are a ton of fakes out there. B&H stopped carrying the ELPLP89 and reviews of supposedly real OEM part on Amazon and Walmart are bad (as in reviewers are saying they got fakes). I can buy direct from Epson but for the list price which is very high. Any pointers to replacement bulbs they wholeheartedly reccommend would be appreciated very much. My bulb just hit 2300 hours and I'm noticing the dimness so it's time.


----------



## fredworld

jppe said:


> What's the current situation (June 2022) for purchasing good bulbs in the US for the 5050UB? I know there are a ton of fakes out there. B&H stopped carrying the ELPLP89 and reviews of supposedly real OEM part on Amazon and Walmart are bad (as in reviewers are saying they got fakes). I can buy direct from Epson but for the list price which is very high. Any pointers to replacement bulbs they wholeheartedly reccommend would be appreciated very much. My bulb just hit 2300 hours and I'm noticing the dimness so it's time.


Everyone's mileage and experience might vary, but these are my posts concerning my lamp replacement journey:
*9728*, *9937*, *9945*, *9967*, *9993*,*10001*, *10024*, *10026*,
Personally, I have laid this issue to rest, and only rely on lamp purchases from Epson. Others will certainly feel differently due to the cost but I have only a limited number of heartbeats left and I'm not wasting any more of them on unreliable aftermarket replacements.


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## Cacitems4sale

NxNW said:


> Happened to me a couple times (see attached). Forcing a HDMI resync usually clears it up. As others have noted, I've only ever observed it in the first few minutes after turning on the projector.
> 
> View attachment 3290403


Thanks for the response. I haven’t had the issue since the post.


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## SAM1233

I see lot of activity on the 5040/6040 forum. May be too many owners there ?


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## DigitalAV

Here are my 5050ub Dynamic mode settings if anyone wants to try. FFTB & low light scenes work pretty well. Grayscale calibrated via HCFR & eodis3. CMS calibrated by eye against reference OLED tablet.

(Note, I'm using an ALR screen)

Brightness 58
Contrast 48
Color Saturation 50
Tint 50

Gamma -1

Color Temp 4
Skin Tone 0
Custom
Offset R 38
Offset G 42
Offset B 42
Gain R 40
Gain G 25
Gain B 39

Power Consumption Medium
Auto Iris High Speed

RGBCMY
R 58 34 52
G 38 50 50
B 70 36 36
C 6 48 56
M 58 50 50
Y 40 48 42


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## hms17B

DigitalAV said:


> Here are my 5050ub Dynamic mode settings if anyone wants to try. FFTB & low light scenes work pretty well. Grayscale calibrated via HCFR & eodis3. CMS calibrated by eye against reference OLED tablet.
> 
> (Note, I'm using an ALR screen)
> 
> Brightness 58
> Contrast 48
> Color Saturation 50
> Tint 50
> 
> Gamma -1
> 
> Color Temp 4
> Skin Tone 0
> Custom
> Offset R 38
> Offset G 42
> Offset B 42
> Gain R 40
> Gain G 25
> Gain B 39
> 
> Power Consumption Medium
> Auto Iris High Speed
> 
> RGBCMY
> R 58 34 52
> G 38 50 50
> B 70 36 36
> C 6 48 56
> M 58 50 50
> Y 40 48 42


I didn't like Dynamic at first, but after trying it a while, it grows on you. The iris can close more than on the other picture modes giving a bit better black. I find I have to also use the manual iris on every mode to get blacks dark enough in the really dark scenes. Noticed an odd thing - with the manual iris all the way down, contrast can disappear, so I have to bring it up a few notches to get it back. I also find that with the manual iris set down a ways, it looks better with gamma up above the zero setting.

Now I'm not sure what I prefer. I have settings for Natural, Digital Cinema, and Dynamic. Switching between them, I can like one better than the others and then not. Get used to one and the others don't look right. Good grief.


----------



## DigitalAV

hms17B said:


> I didn't like Dynamic at first, but after trying it a while, it grows on you. The iris can close more than on the other picture modes giving a bit better black. I find I have to also use the manual iris on every mode to get blacks dark enough in the really dark scenes. Noticed an odd thing - with the manual iris all the way down, contrast can disappear, so I have to bring it up a few notches to get it back. I also find that with the manual iris set down a ways, it looks better with gamma up above the zero setting.
> 
> Now I'm not sure what I prefer. I have settings for Natural, Digital Cinema, and Dynamic. Switching between them, I can like one better than the others and then not. Get used to one and the others don't look right. Good grief.


Indeed the only thing I really notice is the slow-ish transition going to a bright scene from a dark one, but I do like it when fully light controlled & was happy to see the grayscale and colors look spot on. This is a really great projector & luckily my refurb looks pretty good with some panel alignment (just a bit of soft lens on one corner that I'll prolly never notice from normal seating distance)


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## hms17B

DigitalAV said:


> Indeed the only thing I really notice is the slow-ish transition going to a bright scene from a dark one, but I do like it when fully light controlled & was happy to see the grayscale and colors look spot on. This is a really great projector & luckily my refurb looks pretty good with some panel alignment (just a bit of soft lens on one corner that I'll prolly never notice from normal seating distance)


I don't have anything to calibrate color with so far so haven't tackled that, but to the eye it's hard to tell color accuracy. Watch Natural first and Dynamic looks greenish, watch Dynamic first and Natural looks too reddish. Watch one for a while and it looks OK. Color perception is way too relative. However much it may be off, I really don't notice it while watching. I'd like to get to color calibration one day, but that's not in the budget today.

The thing that gets me is black level, and I mean absolute - just how dark it can get. I don't have a gripe in scenes with some light in them, it's the ones that have hardly any light. Perception of darkness is relative too, medium gray can look black next to white, and look white next to black. So projected black seen next to the blackness of a fully darkened room had better be black in order to look black. It's the scenes inside a cave or in space with few stars where I notice the less than true black level and am disappointed. But, using the manual iris way down helps immensely, and Dynamic adds a little bit to that. I now get a level of black in those dark scenes that I can actually perceive as blackness - still not perfect of course, but acceptable.

I got this 5050 after 12 years with my previous, and was rather disappointed that black level had not improved more than it had over that much time. Maybe it had in the Sonys & JVCs but those were out of reach. Don't know what I'd have done if the 5050 hadn't had the manual iris. Considering how much better its blacks are over anything else at or near the price, I never could have been satisfied with any other make and model except the 6050. Maybe I should have gone with the 6050 but the 5050 was already at the limit and one can't price creep too much.

So am happy with it.


----------



## fredworld

@DigitalAV and @hms17B are you using the *Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark *disc to check your black levels, contrast and color for your Modes' comparisons?


----------



## DigitalAV

fredworld said:


> @DigitalAV and @hms17B are you using the *Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark *disc to check your black levels, contrast and color for your Modes' comparisons?


I'm using this for black levels and contrast:









AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration


INTRODUCTION This project aims to provide a free set of calibration patterns for high definition (HD) video players. You will find downloads here to create discs for Blu-ray and AVCHD players, a version with MP4 video for computers or other compatible devices, and a Patterns Manual with some...




www.avsforum.com





For color I use a Samsung OLED tablet (S5e) which looks good to me & I know to be fairly accurate via online reviews. I then compare this to my 5050ub & manually tune CMS to get it looking the same with as much content as possible.


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> @DigitalAV and @hms17B are you using the *Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark *disc to check your black levels, contrast and color for your Modes' comparisons?


Yes. For both SDR & HDR from a Panasonic 820. Black level to me is most noticeable, hence the need for manual plus auto iris. I can't bump Brightness up over 50 as that washes out dark black too much. Upping the gamma to +1 or +2 seems to help give distinction to levels of darkness: -1 or -2 makes it too dark in levels above full black. Setting Contrast down some helps make the whites distinguishable. I also found that for SDR, setting Color down a little makes the S&M Clipping patterns distinguishable - you can see the concentric squares. As for color calibration, eyeballing would risk my sanity. I'll have to wait for a meter and software maybe someday.


----------



## rekbones

hms17B said:


> I don't have anything to calibrate color with so far so haven't tackled that, but to the eye it's hard to tell color accuracy. Watch Natural first and Dynamic looks greenish, watch Dynamic first and Natural looks too reddish. Watch one for a while and it looks OK. Color perception is way too relative. However much it may be off, I really don't notice it while watching. I'd like to get to color calibration one day, but that's not in the budget today.
> 
> The thing that gets me is black level, and I mean absolute - just how dark it can get. I don't have a gripe in scenes with some light in them, it's the ones that have hardly any light. Perception of darkness is relative too, medium gray can look black next to white, and look white next to black. So projected black seen next to the blackness of a fully darkened room had better be black in order to look black. It's the scenes inside a cave or in space with few stars where I notice the less than true black level and am disappointed. But, using the manual iris way down helps immensely, and Dynamic adds a little bit to that. I now get a level of black in those dark scenes that I can actually perceive as blackness - still not perfect of course, but acceptable.
> 
> I got this 5050 after 12 years with my previous, and was rather disappointed that black level had not improved more than it had over that much time. Maybe it had in the Sonys & JVCs but those were out of reach. Don't know what I'd have done if the 5050 hadn't had the manual iris. Considering how much better its blacks are over anything else at or near the price, I never could have been satisfied with any other make and model except the 6050. Maybe I should have gone with the 6050 but the 5050 was already at the limit and one can't price creep too much.
> 
> So am happy with it.


The 6050 is virtually identical to the 5050. it has hand picked parts and the ability to accept an A lens but as far as contrast they should be the same.


----------



## hms17B

rekbones said:


> The 6050 is virtually identical to the 5050. it has hand picked parts and the ability to accept an A lens but as far as contrast they should be the same.


Epson specifies a higher contrast ratio for the 6050. I don't think that would make a whole lot of difference to me other than if that gave an even deeper black level. But I doubt that it could be $1000 deeper.


----------



## rekbones

hms17B said:


> Epson specifies a higher contrast ratio for the 6050. I don't think that would make a whole lot of difference to me other than if that gave an even deeper black level. But I doubt that it could be $1000 deeper.


They aren't truthful about any of their contrast specs. They are identical projectors.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Can anyone share their Apple TV 4K setup options with their 5050/6050? I had a 5040 which had limited HDMI bandwidth and had to set it up for that situation. I'm not sure what to set the settings to for the 5050/6059. Thanks.


----------



## PixelPusher15

WynsWrld98 said:


> Can anyone share their Apple TV 4K setup options with their 5050/6050? I had a 5040 which had limited HDMI bandwidth and had to set it up for that situation. I'm not sure what to set the settings to for the 5050/6059. Thanks.


4K SDR with match content and frame rate turned on is usually the go-to. Only downside is handshake sync when content changes.


----------



## citsur86

I recently got an Xbox Series X and for the first couple of weeks all was good. However, recently, the picture AND audio will cut out suddenly and momentarily (5-10 seconds) and then it comes back. Does this mean the connection from xbox to my Marantz SR6011 is the issue or does the 5050UB have something to do with it? It's never happened even while streaming Dolby Atmos and 4K from Apple TV. TIA


----------



## fredworld

@citsur86 , Sounds like a HDMI handshake issue. What is the nature of your connection chain from Xbox to Marantz to Projector? Type of HDMI cable, length of HDMI cable....
Also, is the projector on FW 1.04, which addressed some connection issues.


----------



## citsur86

fredworld said:


> @citsur86 , Sounds like a HDMI handshake issue. What is the nature of your connection chain from Xbox to Marantz to Projector? Type of HDMI cable, length of HDMI cable....
> Also, is the projector on FW 1.04, which addressed some connection issues.


Xbox to Marantz is nothing special, just whatever came with the xbox series x. Probably 6 foot regular HDMI. From AVR to Projector is a 50 foot directional fiber cable which I've never had issues with. I will check projector firmware and update if it is not.


----------



## hms17B

rekbones said:


> They aren't truthful about any of their contrast specs. They are identical projectors.


The only thing about the 5050 that I'd really like to see better is the black level, and if there's no difference in that between a 5050 and 6050 then any other differences wouldn't mean that much to me. Besides, that's water under the bridge now. With my rate of projector ownership being about one in a decade, this 5050 will be with me for quite a while yet. I'd better like it.


----------



## fredworld

citsur86 said:


> Xbox to Marantz is nothing special, just whatever came with the xbox series x. Probably 6 foot regular HDMI. From AVR to Projector is a 50 foot directional fiber cable which I've never had issues with. I will check projector firmware and update if it is not.


Try removing and re-seating the Xbox cables, too, and/or try another cable.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Hello y'all;
which would be the best screen material for the 5050/5040 in a totally darkened room? I have a 120" 1.1 screen at 3.7 meters from the screen.
I wonder if a 0.8 screen would deliver deeper blacks and how much it could have an effect in brightness/contrast/"image pop". The reason I'm asking this is because here in Brazil we simply don't have how/where to test screens, the only option is buying blindly on the internet... 🙁
Thanks!


----------



## NxNW

luisalbertokid said:


> Hello y'all;
> which would be the best screen material for the 5050/5040 in a totally darkened room? I have a 120" 1.1 screen at 3.7 meters from the screen.
> I wonder if a 0.8 screen would deliver deeper blacks and how much it could have an effect in brightness/contrast/"image pop". The reason I'm asking this is because here in Brazil we simply don't have how/where to test screens, the only option is buying blindly on the internet... 🙁
> Thanks!


On the one hand, the numbers don't lie, you'll lose some light, 30% raw energy which is more like 15% perceptually. On the other hand, I actually removed my screen altogether recently for some cleaning and projected on to the black painted wall of my media room for a few days and, amazingly, I could see the image just fine. (And yes the blacks were tremendous!)

The point of gray screen material is to combat room reflections.

Gray screen material does not, by itself, improve contrast ratio. It can slightly reduce the harm from light walls or light colored furniture.

See Contrast VS projector VS environment - Projection Dream for a reminder of how room reflections work. A gray screen is not nearly as effective as painting your walls black, but if you can't do that, gray screen material can help

I wrote a long list of things that reduce light (see link below). If you plan to experience more than a couple of those factors (especially 3D or wide color gamut) you need all the light you can get and gray screens aren't really worth it.

THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)


----------



## luisalbertokid

NxNW said:


> On the one hand, the numbers don't lie, you'll lose some light, 30% raw energy which is more like 15% perceptually. On the other hand, I actually removed my screen altogether recently for some cleaning and projected on to the black painted wall of my media room for a few days and, amazingly, I could see the image just fine. (And yes the blacks were tremendous!)
> 
> The point of gray screen material is to combat room reflections.
> 
> Gray screen material does not, by itself, improve contrast ratio. It can slightly reduce the harm from light walls or light colored furniture.
> 
> See Contrast VS projector VS environment - Projection Dream for a reminder of how room reflections work. A gray screen is not nearly as effective as painting your walls black, but if you can't do that, gray screen material can help
> 
> I wrote a long list of things that reduce light (see link below). If you plan to experience more than a couple of those factors (especially 3D or wide color gamut) you need all the light you can get and gray screens aren't really worth it.
> 
> THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)


Thanks! 😃


----------



## Jmouse007

luisalbertokid said:


> Hello y'all;
> ... I'm asking this is because here in Brazil we simply don't have how/where to test screens, the only option is buying blindly on the internet... 🙁
> Thanks!


Screens aren't cheap and the cost of buying a new one to chase deeper blacks/contrast is a crap shoot, especially if you are buying blind.

If your present screen is performing well with your EPSON projector with no "hot spots" or "sparklies" I would SAVE YOUR MONEY and instead follow the room darkening recommendations listed in the previous post. Use some of the money on that and use the rest to improve your existing sound system... Maybe a new ONKYO 2.1 HDMI receiver, or a new subwoofer or two.

I have had my 1.1 gain 100" 16/9 electric retractable tab-tension Stewart Screen for nearly 15 years and it still performs as good as it did when new. And with my new EPSON 6050UB the picture is EVEN BETTER! BRIGHTER, the colors POP, GREAT CONTRAST... Couldn't be happier.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Jmouse007 said:


> Screens aren't cheap and the cost of buying a new one to chase deeper blacks/contrast is a crap shoot, especially if you are buying blind.
> 
> If your present screen is performing well with your EPSON projector with no "hot spots" or "sparklies" I would SAVE YOUR MONEY and instead follow the room darkening recommendations listed in the previous post. Use some of the money on that and use the rest to improve your existing sound system... Maybe a new ONKYO 2.1 HDMI receiver, or a new subwoofer or two.
> 
> I have had my 1.1 gain 100" 16/9 electric retractable tab-tension Stewart Screen for nearly 15 years and it still performs as good as it did when new. And with my new EPSON 6050UB the picture is EVEN BETTER! BRIGHTER, the colors POP, GREAT CONTRAST... Couldn't be happier.


Hi thanks for the feedback. Actually I do have a totally darkened room, walls, floor and ceiling. But when I watch movies with really dark scenes I see some “light” in dark areas of the image and was wondering if a low gain screen (like 0.8) could mitigate that. But of course I am being perfectionist, black levels on the 5040/5050 are very good regardless of that 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻


----------



## fredworld

luisalbertokid said:


> Hi thanks for the feedback. Actually I do have a totally darkened room, walls, floor and ceiling. But when I watch movies with really dark scenes I see some “light” in dark areas of the image and was wondering if a low gain screen (like 0.8) could mitigate that. But of course I am being perfectionist, black levels on the 5040/5050 are very good regardless of that 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻


Do you see the "light" on a 100% full field black frame, such as from a test pattern disc? If not, then it's likely in the content .


----------



## biglen

luisalbertokid said:


> Hi thanks for the feedback. Actually I do have a totally darkened room, walls, floor and ceiling. But when I watch movies with really dark scenes I see some “light” in dark areas of the image and was wondering if a low gain screen (like 0.8) could mitigate that. But of course I am being perfectionist, black levels on the 5040/5050 are very good regardless of that


Do you have a dedicated movie room? How's the wall behind the screen? If it's a nice smooth drywall, you can do what I did and do a painted screen using Black Flame Interstellar paint. The image is stunning with my 5050. The benefit of a painted screen is that you aren't limited to the size of the image projected, and you don't have to worry about masking when changing from 16:9 to a scope image. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## NxNW

luisalbertokid said:


> .. when I watch movies with really dark scenes I see some “light” in dark areas of the image and was wondering if a low gain screen (like 0.8) could mitigate that.


It might. A little. But less than you think. 

Absolute black is usually secondary to the _ratio_ of white to black, the all-important "Contrast Ratio". In a perfectly blacked out room, changing to a lower gain screen material will lower blacks _and_ lower whites by the same percentage, which means Contrast Ratio remains unchanged. In a scene such as a view of a few stars in the blackness of space, the black may get dimmer but the stars do too, so the whole image looks pretty similar. 

In a bat cave, a lower gain screen would have the same effect as using a dimmer lamp. If these dark scenes are a critical aspect of the content you frequently watch, ask yourself if you would consider turning down your lamp's intensity to get better blacks. If the answer is no, then you don't need a darker screen material.


----------



## luisalbertokid

NxNW said:


> ask yourself if you would consider turning down your lamp's intensity to get better blacks. If the answer is no, then you don't need a darker screen material.


Yep, I tried lamp on Eco and didn't like it. Medium adds a little more "pop" to the image in general, specially in mid-tones/highlights 👍


----------



## Jmouse007

luisalbertokid said:


> Hi thanks for the feedback. Actually I do have a totally darkened room, walls, floor and ceiling. But when I watch movies with really dark scenes I see some “light” in dark areas of the image and was wondering if a low gain screen (like 0.8) could mitigate that. But of course I am being perfectionist, black levels on the 5040/5050 are very good regardless of that 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻


Don't go to a lower.0.8 gain screen you will end up with a very dim image.

No home theater is perfect. Just be thankful for what you have and enjoy it. It helps to remember and realize that you are one of the fortunate 1 - 5% that has a home theater.

Again enjoy your screen and if you must spend money spend it on something that will enhance or augment the system you already have.


----------



## rekbones

luisalbertokid said:


> Yep, I tried lamp on Eco and didn't like it. Medium adds a little more "pop" to the image in general, specially in mid-tones/highlights 👍


When it comes to contrast the Epson 5050ub is only entry level in the high contrast realm. What you need is a JVC DILA projector.


----------



## luisalbertokid

rekbones said:


> When it comes to contrast the Epson 5050ub is only entry level in the high contrast realm. What you need is a JVC DILA projector.


Sure thing! But JVC isn’t officialy sold in Brazil and I would have to literally smuggle one in here, which would be very risky (absolutely no warranty or even repair service whatsoever) and astronomically expensive 😬😬😬


----------



## luisalbertokid

Jmouse007 said:


> Don't go to a lower.0.8 gain screen you will end up with a very dim image.
> 
> No home theater is perfect. Just be thankful for what you have and enjoy it. It helps to remember and realize that you are one of the fortunate 1 - 5% that has a home theater.
> 
> Again enjoy your screen and if you must spend money spend it on something that will enhance or augment the system you already have.


That’s a very nice way to look at things mate 😉


----------



## hms17B

rekbones said:


> When it comes to contrast the Epson 5050ub is only entry level in the high contrast realm. What you need is a JVC DILA projector.


Fortunately, these Epsons are good enough to almost convince us that dark gray equals black.


----------



## hms17B

I'm the last one in here for the past several days. Should I turn off the lights on my way out?


----------



## Alaric

hms17B said:


> I'm the last one in here for the past several days. Should I turn off the lights on my way out?


Lights on, in a projector group....Shocking behaviour!

I'm sulking that it is too warm in the UK and my cinema is at the top of my house and i've yet to get aircon!


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

I am still here also, awaiting my order on a second TW9400.. My dealer is still confident they will get a couple in stock over the summer,so i am hopeful..
My theater is also at the top floor of my house,but i invested in an aircon after the long summer of 2019 so i am now watching films all day long in a 19 degree room while the outside is 30 degrees .. If i didn't have it,my room would easily see 45 degress with electronics nearing boiling point.


----------



## DavidK442

Still here, standing at the alter, hoping that Epson releases an update to the 5050 that doesn’t double its price. Sadly need to face facts, she ain’t coming back.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

DavidK442 said:


> Still here, standing at the alter, hoping that Epson releases an update to the 5050 that doesn’t double its price. Sadly need to face facts, she ain’t coming back.


This is why i ordered a second 6050ub, as i flat out refuse to pay double for a tech that will prove to be extremely expensive to me like the current laser is.. I hope laser longevity will increase to 50k hrs and decrease to half price,but i don't see that happening..
If i get my ordered unit, i should hopefully be set with cheap projection for the next 10 years at least.

I can only stress to other users, if you find 5050/6050/tw9400 in stock anywhere, SCOOP THEM UP ASAP.. You won't find a better projector at this pricepoint for the foreseeable future...


----------



## madcity

Just ordered a 5050 from B&H, coming on Wednesday. Is there a specific post number that I can start with on how to do an initial setup. This is replacing an Epson 3020 that I had for 10 years, was fried in a power surge. Thinking about having a professional calibration done but want to get it setup to start watching movies right away. Used Disney WOW, is that still even a relevant tool? 

I have read through about 25 pages of posts but the information is way over my head.


----------



## rekbones

madcity said:


> Just ordered a 5050 from B&H, coming on Wednesday. Is there a specific post number that I can start with on how to do an initial setup. This is replacing an Epson 3020 that I had for 10 years, was fried in a power surge. Thinking about having a professional calibration done but want to get it setup to start watching movies right away. Used Disney WOW, is that still even a relevant tool?
> 
> I have read through about 25 pages of posts but the information is way over my head.


The 5050ub is usually very good right out of the box. The WOW disc is fine for calibrating Black(brightness)/White(contrast) levels for SDR. HDR is a disaster with most projectors so that's where you will give your self ulcers if your picky about calibration.


----------



## fredworld

madcity said:


> Just ordered a 5050 from B&H, coming on Wednesday. Is there a specific post number that I can start with on how to do an initial setup. This is replacing an Epson 3020 that I had for 10 years, was fried in a power surge. Thinking about having a professional calibration done but want to get it setup to start watching movies right away. Used Disney WOW, is that still even a relevant tool?
> 
> I have read through about 25 pages of posts but the information is way over my head.





rekbones said:


> The 5050ub is usually very good right out of the box. The WOW disc is fine for calibrating Black(brightness)/White(contrast) levels for SDR. HDR is a disaster with most projectors so that's where you will give your self ulcers if your picky about calibration.


Plus One on @rekbones recs. If after a hundred hours or more on the lamp and if you're feeling adventurous, spring $40 for the *Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark disc. *
I wouldn't want to live without it. I have *previous posts* about my subjective/eyeball calibration with it.


----------



## Alaric

madcity said:


> Just ordered a 5050 from B&H, coming on Wednesday. Is there a specific post number that I can start with on how to do an initial setup. This is replacing an Epson 3020 that I had for 10 years, was fried in a power surge. Thinking about having a professional calibration done but want to get it setup to start watching movies right away. Used Disney WOW, is that still even a relevant tool?
> 
> I have read through about 25 pages of posts but the information is way over my head.


This may help - 





Epson TW9400


The Epson TW9400 is a 3lcd, high brightness, high contrast 4K pixel shifting projector with active 3D capabilities. At approx £2550 it's at a fairly unique, highly featured, very flexible and cheap price point for what it offers. There is also the Epson TW9400W this is a white version at approx




sites.google.com





I'm STILL a fan of the old DVE dvd disc - Was great for talking through what and why and setting SDR basics. SDR is still SDR and the Epson is great for this.

I still recommend the Disney 3D discs for setting crosstalk to get the best out of the Epson and a free movie 

You CAN get the Spiers and Munsel UHD disc. It is good for patterns and stuff, but has WAY more than most people will ever use, isn't cheap, has a massive manual online to read and even then gets confusing - There are various patterns online, but alas HDR is a bit of a faff regardless.

The Panasonic 420/820 UHD players are the best for decent and simple HDR at reasonable cost still. HDFury Vertex or similar is good for getting LLDV from an AppleTV/Firestick/Sony UHD player for Dolby Vision at a reasonable price. Anything better is Lumagen / MadVR teritory


----------



## marantz545

How big of a scope screen can you go with the 6050 based on these assumptions...

I don't want to run the projector in high lamp mode, so medium lamp is fine. The screen will be acoustically transparent... probably XD material with a 19.5' throw distance. Room is light controlled. No anamorphic lens or anything. Not trying to do much HDR as I mostly have Blu Rays. 

Would a 140" - 150" scope screen be too dim considering the negative gain screen?


----------



## PixelPusher15

marantz545 said:


> How big of a scope screen can you go with the 6050 based on these assumptions...
> 
> I don't want to run the projector in high lamp mode, so medium lamp is fine. The screen will be acoustically transparent... probably XD material with a 19.5' throw distance. Room is light controlled. No anamorphic lens or anything. Not trying to do much HDR as I mostly have Blu Rays.
> 
> Would a 140" - 150" scope screen be too dim considering the negative gain screen?


150 scope with a ~0.85 gain screen would give you about 20fL/70nits in high lamp/natural. If you're not doing HDR or if you have great tone mapping then yeah, I think you'd be solid. 140" scope would for sure work and isn't terribly uncommon.


----------



## Stephen Shaw

madcity said:


> Just ordered a 5050 from B&H, coming on Wednesday. Is there a specific post number that I can start with on how to do an initial setup. This is replacing an Epson 3020 that I had for 10 years, was fried in a power surge. Thinking about having a professional calibration done but want to get it setup to start watching movies right away. Used Disney WOW, is that still even a relevant tool?
> 
> I have read through about 25 pages of posts but the information is way over my head.


How'd you get one? I've been watching that site for months, always back ordered. Lucky You!!! For a while they had the UBe wireless for the same 2999 but now it says Discontinued. Hope the ub isn't next.


----------



## Alaric

Stephen Shaw said:


> How'd you get one? I've been watching that site for months, always back ordered. Lucky You!!! For a while they had the UBe wireless for the same 2999 but now it says Discontinued. Hope the ub isn't next.


It is going to be, alas.....Sooner or later. 
Epson is already pushing the next thing and will basically be clearing parts and stock of the prior models.

_IF_ there is demand they may carry it on for a while, but i'd say most people who wanted it, have it and the SH market will be reasonable with people upgrading, so looking at it from a business case, they'll push the LS range now.


----------



## soulcougher73

Without having to read a ton in this thread and considering the 5050 has been around a while now. I am looking into buying a used 5050 from someone locally. But it has pretty high hours on it, almost 2200 hours. What is the best place to buy an OEM Epson bulb from other than Epson at $330? If i can find a reasonable priced bulb and get the price right on the 5050 i might go this route to make it look like a brand new 5050.


----------



## WynsWrld98

soulcougher73 said:


> Without having to read a ton in this thread and considering the 5050 has been around a while now. I am looking into buying a used 5050 from someone locally. But it has pretty high hours on it, almost 2200 hours. What is the best place to buy an OEM Epson bulb from other than Epson at $330? If i can find a reasonable priced bulb and get the price right on the 5050 i might go this route to make it look like a brand new 5050.


Keep in mind warranties aren't transferable.


----------



## PixelPusher15

soulcougher73 said:


> Without having to read a ton in this thread and considering the 5050 has been around a while now. I am looking into buying a used 5050 from someone locally. But it has pretty high hours on it, almost 2200 hours. What is the best place to buy an OEM Epson bulb from other than Epson at $330? If i can find a reasonable priced bulb and get the price right on the 5050 i might go this route to make it look like a brand new 5050.


You'll hear people complain about non-oem bulbs but many, _many _people have had luck with places like Pureland Supply:





Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projector Lamps | Home Cinema 5050UB Bulbs | Pureland Supply


Pureland Supply stocks Home Cinema 5050UB Epson Projector Lamps with genuine original Osram bulb inside. Price: $134.60, Quantity in stock:170, Projector Model: Home Cinema 5050UB, Lamp Id: V13H010L89. Free ground shipping and 180 day warranty.



www.purelandsupply.com





Compas micro is supposed to sell OEM bulbs in a non-OEM box. It's slightly cheaper:








lamp assembly (V13H010L89) for Epson Home Cinema 5050UB


lamp assembly (V13H010L89) for Epson Home Cinema 5050UB




compassmicro.com





They are authorized to sell Epson parts and service their projectors. I think I heard that Epson support sent people to Compass Micro when Epson was out of stock of bulbs. Yeah, just looked. It was @CinemacDaddy that reported this. Here's his comparison of a genuine bulb and the one from CM:








THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)


Dem floors tho. Love them. Thanks! All brand new just installed. Hickory. Not ideal for acoustics though. Need to convince wife to get a very large thick floor rug for this room.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> You'll hear people complain about non-oem bulbs but many, _many _people have had luck with places like Pureland Supply:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projector Lamps | Home Cinema 5050UB Bulbs | Pureland Supply
> 
> 
> Pureland Supply stocks Home Cinema 5050UB Epson Projector Lamps with genuine original Osram bulb inside. Price: $134.60, Quantity in stock:170, Projector Model: Home Cinema 5050UB, Lamp Id: V13H010L89. Free ground shipping and 180 day warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> www.purelandsupply.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compas micro is supposed to sell OEM bulbs in a non-OEM box. It's slightly cheaper:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lamp assembly (V13H010L89) for Epson Home Cinema 5050UB
> 
> 
> lamp assembly (V13H010L89) for Epson Home Cinema 5050UB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> compassmicro.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are authorized to sell Epson parts and service their projectors. I think I heard that Epson support sent people to Compass Micro when Epson was out of stock of bulbs. Yeah, just looked. It was @CinemacDaddy that reported this. Here's his comparison of a genuine bulb and the one from CM:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THE Epson 5050UB/6050UB Thread (No Price Talk)
> 
> 
> Dem floors tho. Love them. Thanks! All brand new just installed. Hickory. Not ideal for acoustics though. Need to convince wife to get a very large thick floor rug for this room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Here's my* "Buyer Beware" story *albeit somewhat dated now in light of more recent happy endings.


----------



## soulcougher73

fredworld said:


> Here's my* "Buyer Beware" story *albeit somewhat dated now in light of more recent happy endings.


Thanks for that story of your lamp journey. Do you know if you buy a refurbished unit from Epson itself that it comes with a new bulbs in it?


----------



## fredworld

soulcougher73 said:


> Thanks for that story of your lamp journey. Do you know if you buy a refurbished unit from Epson itself that it comes with a new bulbs in it?


The refurbished unit I had for a day had a lamp with under 30 hours, as best I can recall. I think the run time of the unit itself was about the same. 
@PixelPusher15 aka Andy might chime in as he's probably had more refurb experience than any in this thread.


----------



## BlueMan Jones

soulcougher73 said:


> Without having to read a ton in this thread and considering the 5050 has been around a while now. I am looking into buying a used 5050 from someone locally. But it has pretty high hours on it, almost 2200 hours. What is the best place to buy an OEM Epson bulb from other than Epson at $330? If i can find a reasonable priced bulb and get the price right on the 5050 i might go this route to make it look like a brand new 5050.


Selling you a projector with 2200 hours on the bulb is, to me, like selling a projector without a bulb. I'd see if you can get a $100 taken off the price and then use that to help you purchase a bulb from Epson. Sure, $300 is a premium, but getting a bulb from anyone other an Epson is only a little better than a crapshoot in my opinion. If you get lucky, great. But if you don't get lucky, and the chances of that are higher than people appreciate, then you have to go through the trouble of returning....and that's if it fails quick and not right after the 6 month warranty as it did in my case.

Maybe i'm still a little bitter, but all that trouble is not worth it to save a few bucks.


----------



## jwc1969

soulcougher73 said:


> Thanks for that story of your lamp journey. Do you know if you buy a refurbished unit from Epson itself that it comes with a new bulbs in it?


Boy, I maybe I'm nuts but this is where I got my 5050UB replacement for $115 and it contends it's an OEM product. Am I missing something here? Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projector Lamp with Module - MyProjectorLamps USA


----------



## PixelPusher15

soulcougher73 said:


> Thanks for that story of your lamp journey. Do you know if you buy a refurbished unit from Epson itself that it comes with a new bulbs in it?


Pretty confident they put a new bulb in it.


----------



## PixelPusher15

jwc1969 said:


> Boy, I maybe I'm nuts but this is where I got my 5050UB replacement for $115 and it contends it's an OEM product. Am I missing something here? Epson Home Cinema 5050UB Projector Lamp with Module - MyProjectorLamps USA


Usually, these non-official bulbs are OEM in the sense that they are made by the Original Equipment Manufacturer. This doesn't mean they are the same bulb that Epson would put in a new projector. There could be some sort of binning happening where the bulbs that go to Epson are tested and meet a certain criteria while the other ones are sent to these places. In the JVC world where people tend to measure their stuff more, the non-official bulbs have a tendency to measure not as bright. But this isn't a hard and fast rule. There have been multiple people that have measured the non-official bulbs at equal brightness. I'm not sure if this translates over to Epson bulbs or not. The only real concerns I've seen reported with the non-official Epson bulbs are with housing and screw discrepancies which for some reason don't really bother me. 🤷‍♂️


----------



## Alaric

Personally, after trying an OEM bulb of who knows what origins in my old Mitsubishi and it exploding after a couple of hundred hours, it was per hour way more expensive than a genuine bulb - It _IS_ a total crap shoot out there with many places claiming lots of things. I get the upfront costs and the temptation of OEM bulbs and so forth, but I'll only get a bulb from Epson direct or someone i know who is selling a genuine Epson bulb - Be that a trusted dealer or someone I know.

I may have been unlucky with that bulb, you MAY get a genuine one, you may get one that lasts, you may get one that gives the correct light output, but there's only one way to guarantee that.


----------



## smile

Epson picture at 1080 is zoomed, exceeds screen size.
Aspect is set to Normal.
Info says 1080, Component.
ROKU Premier 2, when set to 720 fits. Change to 1080 and it exceeds screen size.
I tried 2 different ROKU units plugged into the pj directly via HDMI; same result.
It has operated correctly until now.
Don't know if relevant: People were at my house and may have used it, but I don't know.
Thx


----------



## fredworld

smile said:


> Epson picture at 1080 is zoomed, exceeds screen size.
> Aspect is set to Normal.
> Info says 1080, Component.
> ROKU Premier 2, when set to 720 fits. Change to 1080 and it exceeds screen size.
> I tried 2 different ROKU units plugged into the pj directly via HDMI; same result.
> It has operated correctly until now.
> Don't know if relevant: People were at my house and may have used it, but I don't know.
> Thx


Set Aspect Ratio to Auto. See if that helps.


----------



## rekbones

smile said:


> Epson picture at 1080 is zoomed, exceeds screen size.
> Aspect is set to Normal.
> Info says 1080, Component.
> ROKU Premier 2, when set to 720 fits. Change to 1080 and it exceeds screen size.
> I tried 2 different ROKU units plugged into the pj directly via HDMI; same result.
> It has operated correctly until now.
> Don't know if relevant: People were at my house and may have used it, but I don't know.
> Thx


Are you using any digital keystone? The projector has power lens memory so can you zoom to a smaller screen so it fits the screen at 1080p? We need your throw distance (front of lens to screen) to the inch and the same with the exact dimensions of the screen or its diag if 16:9 to possibly figure out your issue. Maybe reset the projector back to factory defaults. If at the zoom limits and image falls off the screen then the projector is mounted too far from the screen. If that's the case you were using some form of digital scaling that has been changed and should have been avoided in the first place.


----------



## smile

fredworld said:


> Set Aspect Ratio to Auto. See if that helps.


"Auto" is grayed out and not a selection I can make.


----------



## fredworld

smile said:


> "Auto" is grayed out and not a selection I can make.


That was a long shot. But @rekbones has a good suggestion about digital scaling. Presumably, you are using an AVR, so check your HDMI video output settings for resolution and scaling. Tell us what they are or post a photo.
Otherwise, check your Roku's display settings. Try Auto detect.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Here's a comparison I wrote up that fellow 5050 owners may be interested in. The 5050 is still a helluva projector. 



PixelPusher15 said:


> Yesterday I got a pretty extended viewing session comparing the LS12000, NX7, and 5050. All were "calibrated". I put that in quotes because the 5050 was calibrated on a different screen and was just tuned up a bit for the screen used and it needed some more fine-tuning. The LS12000 is laser and needed a custom white point due to metameric failure (the meter sees light differently than we do so D65 on a laser PJ isn't D65 in appearance to us when compared to a bulb projector). So colors were a tad different but gamma was spot on for all 3.
> 
> Here's my opinion on the 5050 as it stands today. Heck yeah it is still worth the money and given the increase in prices across the board, I'd say it would be worth even more.
> 
> A few takeaways from the comparison:
> 
> I'm assuming my 5050 has a great lens and the LS12000 maybe had a bad sample because there were scenes (on close inspection and with an HDMI splitter) that the 5050 was sharper and clearly showed more detail. We're talking strands of hair, pores, and wrinkles on a face. We updated the firmware on the LS12000 and after this, there were a few scenes that appeared sharper than the 5050 but not all. This was a stumper for us but was repeatable.
> HDR on the LS12000 is better. It maintained highlight detail and contrast better than the 5050. Scene Adaptive Gamma did some heavy lifting in real content but it created some artifacts on menus (banding) that wasn't good. I'm unsure if it could cause artifacts in real content. I'd call SAG a form of contrast enhancement that seems to work well but is altering the image and this would take it further from creator's intent. You can decide if this is good or not. Any HDR tone mapping is harming creator's intent so does it even matter?
> The 5050 had better black levels in most of the darkest scenes. (both were tested in calibrated dynamic) I'm actually not surprised by this. The dynamic iris on the 5050 improves on screen contrast as it closes down where the laser dimming on the LS12000 doesn't.
> One caveat to this is that the LS12000 seemed to maintain contrast in some of the darker mixed scenes. This seemed to be because of the better HDR handling on the LS12000.
> 
> Color saturation on HDR content was noticeably better on the LS12000 vs the 5050 but this isn't saying the 5050 was bad. Just in comparison, it was lacking.
> The NX7 kicked butt. It had HALF the lumens of the LS12000 (which I measured at 2150 lumens D65 in Natural!) but appeared brighter and packed more punch in all the dark scenes. It was only the bright scenes that the LS12000 really showed its light output. I attributed a lot of this to DTM on the JVC. I kept being surprised that I was watching a projector with half the lumens look nearly as bright or brighter (in dark scenes).
> My takeaway here is something that underscores what I already believe, _pure brightness is not needed for good HDR. Great tonemapping and dynamic range are what is needed._
> 
> Of course, the dark scenes were better on the NX7. We watched the night scene from 1917 and it was kinda crazy how much more detail there was visible on the NX vs the Epson's. I think the beginning of this scene is even rough for a JVC and it can look washed out. But in comparison to the Epson's they just looked....bleh. No surprises here, really.
> Limited testing of frame interpolation showed the NX7 did better than the LS12000 (both tested on low). I'd say the LS12000 did a smidge better with motion when all processing was turned off. We didn't compare the LS12000 to the 5050 for motion.
> If I were buying a projector right now I'd look at the 5050 and then probably jump to the NP5 or see if there are still some clearance B-stock NX5s or NX7s out there. If I really valued laser, HDMI 2.1 and needed the lumens then the LS12000 would be a good choice.
> 
> This is probably more information than is needed for this thread but I figured I'd share it here anyway.


----------



## markymiles

I think the fact it’s even being spoken about in this comparison says enough. I know different markets have different prices but here the NX7 was 3 x the price of the 6050/9400.

Also does well against the LS12000. Didn’t seem there was much in it, obviously has a laser which some would like but overall only slight improvements between the two.

For the price still has no challengers yet.


----------



## smile

rekbones said:


> Are you using any digital keystone? The projector has power lens memory so can you zoom to a smaller screen so it fits the screen at 1080p? We need your throw distance (front of lens to screen) to the inch and the same with the exact dimensions of the screen or its diag if 16:9 to possibly figure out your issue. *Maybe reset the projector back to factory defaults.* If at the zoom limits and image falls off the screen then the projector is mounted too far from the screen. If that's the case you were using some form of digital scaling that has been changed and should have been avoided in the first place.


*Reset* is a good idea, thanks. 
As well, "Projector Info: Input Signal: Component". This is with an HDMI from a ROKU directly to the pj (Same when thru the AVR). Does that sound right?


----------



## luisalbertokid

smile said:


> *Reset* is a good idea, thanks.
> As well, "Projector Info: Input Signal: Component". This is with an HDMI from a ROKU directly to the pj (Same when thru the AVR). Does that sound right?


I have nVidia SHIELD TV Pro and a Minix box running CoreELEC both connected through HDMI (4K/HDR) and the Epson also states "Component" as input signal (maybe because it's a YCbCr signal?? One luma component and two chroma components? I don't know, maybe...).


----------



## NismoZ

I'll be tackling picture settings with a friend soon. He's got Series X into an HDMI 2.1 AVR and then onto a 5050UB. I've been reading through the reviews for picture settings and such. I also have the Spears and Munsil disc that I used on my TV setup. 

Should we get the projector settings dialed in first and then run through the Xbox Series X picture/HDR settings after that? What's the correct order there? Anything to watch out for specifically going through the process? Thanks!


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Finally my dealer got the last 2 brand new Epson 9400/6050ub in stock, and 1 of them is mine, MY OWN, MY PRECIOUS...... So now i have 2 of them, which hopefully should keep me in cheap projection for the next many,many years.. Hopefully, by the time i would need to replace, laser has matured to 50k hours at half price from current..

I can now sleep soundly again


----------



## Hopinater

PixelPusher15 said:


> Here's a comparison I wrote up that fellow 5050 owners may be interested in. The 5050 is still a helluva projector.


Nice write up. It's says a lot about the quality of the 5050.


----------



## platinum00

I started getting these lines today on the 5050. Original bulb with ~1000 hrs. Only visible in light scenes.

Is this a sign the bulb is going or something else?










Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## rekbones

platinum00 said:


> I started getting these lines today on the 5050. Original bulb with ~1000 hrs. Only visible in light scenes.
> 
> Is this a sign the bulb is going or something else?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


The lamp is just a light source, any odd picture artifacts are defiantly something else.


----------



## platinum00

any ideas? 

does it on all sources and all inputs.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## mon2479

I'm looking to tackle the sharpness on my projector. Whenever I put up the pattern on the screen and look closely at each white square, some aren't a perfect square, they're a bit fuzzy, do I need to do a panel alignment? I worry a bit I might make the picture worse, would there be a way to undo all panel alignment tinkering?


----------



## tony123

marantz545 said:


> How big of a scope screen can you go with the 6050 based on these assumptions...
> 
> I don't want to run the projector in high lamp mode, so medium lamp is fine. The screen will be acoustically transparent... probably XD material with a 19.5' throw distance. Room is light controlled. No anamorphic lens or anything. Not trying to do much HDR as I mostly have Blu Rays.
> 
> Would a 140" - 150" scope screen be too dim considering the negative gain screen?


I'm on XD material at 168" wide scope (19x" diagonal). I'm not up on all the FL measurements, etc. and sure this is beyond "acceptable", but I am still BLOWN AWAY at the picture, including brightness. One thing I've learned from two decades on this forum is not to let the science keep you from trying things. Most of the time, the differences between technically acceptable and not are hard to perceive or at the very most within a few percent in performance.


----------



## b_scott

if I have a 5040 can someone tell the the major upgrades I would get going to a 5050 or 6050?

Right now my biggest complaint is no auto switching to HDR settings when an HDR source is detected, like it does with 3D on the 5040. I don't even use HDR because I don't want to change the settings every time an HDR source comes up - even with my Harmony One and the one press setup. I need it to be wife friendly.


----------



## skilowyo

I just received a refurb 5050ub yesterday and I wanted to check to see how many hours were on the unit. I tried to get to the service menu by holding down menu for ~8 seconds, then pushing esc twice and it does not seem to be working for me. Has it changed in the recent firmware versions, or do you think I am just doing it wrong? Any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## rekbones

b_scott said:


> if I have a 5040 can someone tell the the major upgrades I would get going to a 5050 or 6050?
> 
> Right now my biggest complaint is no auto switching to HDR settings when an HDR source is detected, like it does with 3D on the 5040. I don't even use HDR because I don't want to change the settings every time an HDR source comes up - even with my Harmony One and the one press setup. I need it to be wife friendly.


No the 5050 still doesn't auto switch to a desired HDR setup when HDR is detected. The main advantage the 5050 has is true full bandwidth HDMI 2.0 and the HDR slider.


----------



## E2K

hms17B said:


> Fortunately, these Epsons are good enough to almost convince us that dark gray equals black.


It’s probably still better than 99.9 percent of all commercial cinemas. Even without light controlled room (should be at least night though)


----------



## b_scott

rekbones said:


> No the 5050 still doesn't auto switch to a desired HDR setup when HDR is detected. The main advantage the 5050 has is true full bandwidth HDMI 2.0 and the HDR slider.


Thanks. Unbelievable that it still doesn't do that. I can't understand how the developers don't think that's a major annoyance.


----------



## platinum00

platinum00 said:


> I started getting these lines today on the 5050. Original bulb with ~1000 hrs. Only visible in light scenes.
> 
> Is this a sign the bulb is going or something else?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


Just for reference, this was not the projector at all. The black backing on my screen was falling off exposing the support braces. 

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

platinum00 said:


> Just for reference, this was not the projector at all. The black backing on my screen was falling off exposing the support braces.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk


So in this case bad news is actually good news.


----------



## hms17B

mon2479 said:


> I'm looking to tackle the sharpness on my projector. Whenever I put up the pattern on the screen and look closely at each white square, some aren't a perfect square, they're a bit fuzzy, do I need to do a panel alignment? I worry a bit I might make the picture worse, would there be a way to undo all panel alignment tinkering?


If squares aren't square your unit may not be square with the screen. But not sure exactly what you mean by that.

If the panels are out of alignment, you'll see red and/or blue fringes especially on white areas. If you decide to attempt panel alignment, stick with the whole panel and avoid corner and intersection. Even pretty noticeable misalignment can usually be remedied sufficiently with whole panel alignment. Corner and intersection sort of jumble pixels and the result may not be the best for resolution. You can always turn off panel alignment which will revert to its original condition, so very easy to back out of it.


----------



## hms17B

E2K said:


> It’s probably still better than 99.9 percent of all commercial cinemas. Even without light controlled room (should be at least night though)


Haven't been to a commercial cinema in years and the last time it was not pleasant. Both black level and sound level was way too high. Likewise for the popcorn and soda levels on the floor.


----------



## FNwoz

Landed an Epson 5050UB. Anything I should note and adjust as I am replacing my Epson 2150 with it. First entry into 4k. Going to set it up here in the next couple of days. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Jmouse007

E2K said:


> It’s probably still better than 99.9 percent of all commercial cinemas. Even without light controlled room (should be at least night though)


Absolutely true. Our family went to see Top Gun Maverick at a very good theater in our area. The picture looked dull/lack luster and washed out and the audio/sound was just okay. 

Anyway when we got home I fired up our EPSON 6050UB and our 11 channel audio. I told my wife that I bet our projector and sound system would do a much better job. Sure enough, I streamed several TGM 4K trailers and the whole family was blown away by how great the video and audio of the movie was compared to what we had just seen! And this was just streaming! 

I can't wait to see the 4K UHD BluRay of Top Gun Maverick, it is going to look and sound spectacular in our home theater. 

No point in going to the theater when the EPSON 6050UB throws such a great picture.


----------



## rekbones

FNwoz said:


> Landed an Epson 5050UB. Anything I should note and adjust as I am replacing my Epson 2150 with it. First entry into 4k. Going to set it up here in the next couple of days. Thanks in advance.


HDMI cables are the most common thing to not work correctly when going from HDMI 1.4 to 2.0 and above. Of course if you have an older AVR it will cause more issues. Hopefully you took into account the physical size of the 5050ub as it is monster compared to the 2150.


----------



## FNwoz

rekbones said:


> HDMI cables are the most common thing to not work correctly when going from HDMI 1.4 to 2.0 and above. Of course if you have an older AVR it will cause more issues. Hopefully you took into account the physical size of the 5050ub as it is monster compared to the 2150.


Thanks for the heads up but I should be good there. When I put my theater together I made sure everything was 4k ready. The size is a tough pill to swallow but I am hoping the picture quality makes up for that. Speaking of which, is there any negative to building a box around the projector and ceiling mounting the box to slide the projector in? I would leave room for ventilation and access. The goal would be to minimize the vibration of the kids running around on our main level. The projector would then sit on its feet instead of upside down with a ceiling mount.


----------



## rekbones

FNwoz said:


> Thanks for the heads up but I should be good there. When I put my theater together I made sure everything was 4k ready. The size is a tough pill to swallow but I am hoping the picture quality makes up for that. Speaking of which, is there any negative to building a box around the projector and ceiling mounting the box to slide the projector in? I would leave room for ventilation and access. The goal would be to minimize the vibration of the kids running around on our main level. The projector would then sit on its feet instead of upside down with a ceiling mount.


As long as you have proper ventilation nothing wrong with a hush box and 5050ub is fine right side up near the ceiling. Even if you preplanned for all 4K complaint HDMI cables any long runs are prone for issues even if the manufacture stated they will work so just beware if you have any handshake issues the cables are 95% to blame.


----------



## DavidK442

FNwoz said:


> The goal would be to minimize the vibration of the kids running around on our main level. The projector would then sit on its feet instead of upside down with a ceiling mount.


Floor joists flex. The only way to prevents the image from bouncing along with your kids is to mount the projector to a wall or to dedicated joists that span wall to wall and do not touch any part of the floor/ceiling system…or to get rid of the kids.


----------



## NxNW

Nothing impressive about the plot or theme or any of that (hey it's a kids movie after all), but I enjoyed the HDR animated feature 'Sea Beast'. 

Yes I'm older and should know better. But anyway I thought it used the 6050's capabilities to good effect. 

Same thing i thought with spider verse- 'HDR animation is getting pretty good these days..'

And I have every confidence my projector is showing it as well or better than i can get in theaters. 

(Spider verse is a legitimately more interesting movie but anyway there's my opinion do with it what you will)

HDR slider about 2 or 3 ticks to the left. Totally a matter of taste but that's usually where i end up


----------



## FNwoz

DavidK442 said:


> Floor joists flex. The only way to prevents the image from bouncing along with your kids is to mount the projector to a wall or to dedicated joists that span wall to wall and do not touch any part of the floor/ceiling system…or to get rid of the kids.


Thanks for the advice. Since the projector is so large my thought would be that the hush box would cover at least two joists rather than the mount that effectively hangs from one currently (I added some supports between the joists). I watched Dr Strange mulitiverse of madness as my first 4k HDR streaming and some of the images were incredible. When I first setup the projector I was in kind of a hurry and just wanted to make sure everything was working correctly. I was a little disappointed at first glance but once I dialed everything and watched in a darker environment, it was impressive. Looking forward to watching more on it.


----------



## rupedogg24

soulcougher73 said:


> Without having to read a ton in this thread and considering the 5050 has been around a while now. I am looking into buying a used 5050 from someone locally. But it has pretty high hours on it, almost 2200 hours. What is the best place to buy an OEM Epson bulb from other than Epson at $330? If i can find a reasonable priced bulb and get the price right on the 5050 i might go this route to make it look like a brand new 5050.


Pureland is where I've bought mine from. I haven't had any issues with their bulbs. None. And they are bright to me. You can't go wrong with them IMO. I bought two because of the price point and you never know with the way the current market is. 

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk


----------



## lamecuber

Hi guys, new owner of a 5050UB here (too impatient for LS12000). Everything is good except for 2 minor issues.

Anybody here have an issue where the image keeps turning off and then on every few seconds when HDMI link is turned on? When I first got the projector, I thought I had a faulty unit until I read a post that said to turn off HDMI Link. I can probably live without CEC, but it's nice to have.

Also, when running on Eco mode, I notice some flickering/dimming, but goes away when I use Medium. Is that normal?


----------



## PixelPusher15

lamecuber said:


> Hi guys, new owner of a 5050UB here (too impatient for LS12000). Everything is good except for 2 minor issues.
> 
> Anybody here have an issue where the image keeps turning off and then on every few seconds when HDMI link is turned on? When I first got the projector, I thought I had a faulty unit until I read a post that said to turn off HDMI Link. I can probably live without CEC, but it's nice to have.
> 
> Also, when running on Eco mode, I notice some flickering/dimming, but goes away when I use Medium. Is that normal?


Some think it is impossible to run in Eco without flicker. IME you should run it in high lamp for at least 50 hours and then try Eco. Occasionally a flicker will occur and you'll need to run it in high for a bit to get it to go away. I've never seen flicker in Medium. 

If you find it too bright in Medium but want to avoid flicker, then try using the manual iris to reduce brightness. You will gain contrast this way as well so there's a benefit. 

Your other issue may be just an HDMI cable issue. I'm unsure but know CEC can be a world of headaches. 

Good job being impatient, BTW. I don't think the LS12000 is an upgrade. Just a sidegrade.


----------



## gates828

I’ve got a bit of a weird one. Maybe someone else has seen it. (or heard it)

I was watching a band of brothers blue ray (so 1080p, no HDR) and I started to notice a bit of a nuisance sound from the projector. Not awful, but enough for me to debate if I was crazy or not. My initial usage was on my Xbox series x using a Denon 4500 Avr. So I started experimenting.


when I would exit the blue ray, the nuisance sound would go away.
swapped to ps5 and the same experience,
switched to a ps5 game, no nuisance sound.
played a 4k blue ray, had nuisance sound.
launched band of brothers via fire stick streaming, no nuisance sound.
I recently moved a min fridge out of the room, so no compressor sounds make quite scenes more sensitive, but regardless something is clearly varying.

So it appears to be related to the feed from a disc playing. Is there some sort of processing toggle I should look for that a blue ray would key on? Projector has around 2500 hours on it now and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed it.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

gates828 said:


> I’ve got a bit of a weird one. Maybe someone else has seen it. (or heard it)
> 
> I was watching a band of brothers blue ray (so 1080p, no HDR) and I started to notice a bit of a nuisance sound from the projector. Not awful, but enough for me to debate if I was crazy or not. My initial usage was on my Xbox series x using a Denon 4500 Avr. So I started experimenting.
> 
> 
> when I would exit the blue ray, the nuisance sound would go away.
> swapped to ps5 and the same experience,
> switched to a ps5 game, no nuisance sound.
> played a 4k blue ray, had nuisance sound.
> launched band of brothers via fire stick streaming, no nuisance sound.
> I recently moved a min fridge out of the room, so no compressor sounds make quite scenes more sensitive, but regardless something is clearly varying.
> 
> So it appears to be related to the feed from a disc playing. Is there some sort of processing toggle I should look for that a blue ray would key on? Projector has around 2500 hours on it now and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed it.


The iris makes a kinda motor noise if you use dynamic iris, could this be it? There is also a pretty loud fan noise if you use high lamp mode..


----------



## robl2

At how how many hours do people usually replace their bulb? Got 2590 (mixed medium & high) on mine and I think I'm starting to notice it's dimmer than it used to be


----------



## gates828

Tsunamijhoe said:


> The iris makes a kinda motor noise if you use dynamic iris, could this be it? There is also a pretty loud fan noise if you use high lamp mode..


when I first experienced it, I put the projector in eco and it persisted. its a constant sound so it’s not varying like the iris does. I have a video, but as a perpetual lurker and rare poster I’m not sure if there’s a good way to add it.


----------



## rekbones

gates828 said:


> when I first experienced it, I put the projector in eco and it persisted. its a constant sound so it’s not varying like the iris does. I have a video, but as a perpetual lurker and rare poster I’m not sure if there’s a good way to add it.


The shift actuator makes a noise also. It may sound different playing at 24hz compared to 60hz. Check the status when the noise occurs and see if it maybe related to input frame rate.


----------



## DigitalAV

What kind of calibrated peak brightness and gamut coverage are folks seeing in Normal mode and Medium or High lamp for their 5050ub? @PixelPusher15 have you measured yours?


----------



## cbatc

gates828 said:


> when I first experienced it, I put the projector in eco and it persisted. its a constant sound so it’s not varying like the iris does. I have a video, but as a perpetual lurker and rare poster I’m not sure if there’s a good way to add it.


Like a low humm?


----------



## PixelPusher15

DigitalAV said:


> What kind of calibrated peak brightness and gamut coverage are folks seeing in Normal mode and Medium or High lamp for their 5050ub? @PixelPusher15 have you measured yours?


I haven’t but I’ve been curious. I’m calibrating my audio tonight and will probably do video tomorrow if all goes as planned. I can run a sweep then if I do


----------



## gates828

rekbones said:


> The shift actuator makes a noise also. It may sound different playing at 24hz compared to 60hz. Check the status when the noise occurs and see if it maybe related to input frame rate.


Finally got a chance to experiment again. I think this has to be it. It’s interesting because directly below you can’t hear it as much, but we recently moved the seats forward a bit. I’m guessing there’s not much I can do other than find a way to deal with it mentally?


----------



## PixelPusher15

DigitalAV said:


> What kind of calibrated peak brightness and gamut coverage are folks seeing in Normal mode and Medium or High lamp for their 5050ub? @PixelPusher15 have you measured yours?


Oh shoot, you said normal mode. Well, I did a test for Dynamic and came up with...









I'm getting around 105-110 nits on my 123" screen. So this looks like around 1800 lumens post calibration. Didn't measure Medium.


----------



## DigitalAV

PixelPusher15 said:


> Oh shoot, you said normal mode. Well, I did a test for Dynamic and came up with...
> View attachment 3313657
> 
> 
> I'm getting around 105-110 nits on my 123" screen. So this looks like around 1800 lumens post calibration. Didn't measure Medium.


No worries so 1800 lumens & 85% P3 calibrated in Dynamic Mode in High Lamp? Pretty good! How many hours on your bulb?


----------



## PixelPusher15

DigitalAV said:


> No worries so 1800 lumens & 85% P3 calibrated in Dynamic Mode in High Lamp? Pretty good! How many hours on your bulb?


Yup. I’m pleased with it. The 5050 is a helluva projector. Especially with external DTM. 

Eerrrr, don’t remember. Pretty sure I’m in the 400s but I usually underestimate lol


----------



## luisalbertokid

gates828 said:


> Finally got a chance to experiment again. I think this has to be it. It’s interesting because directly below you can’t hear it as much, but we recently moved the seats forward a bit. I’m guessing there’s not much I can do other than find a way to deal with it mentally?


That’s a good idea, you should stop trying to find problems in such a nice projector 😃😃😃


----------



## David Lantz

PixelPusher15 said:


> Yup. I’m pleased with it. The 5050 is a helluva projector. Especially with external DTM.


What are you using for DTM? New to projectors and have a 6050. Would love dtm but everything I found cost double the projector.


----------



## PixelPusher15

David Lantz said:


> What are you using for DTM? New to projectors and have a 6050. Would love dtm but everything I found cost double the projector.


I use a HTPC with madVR, a capture card, and VideoProcessor.org to connect them. It’s a DIY Envy. If using discs, a Panasonic UB420 does really well. Or rip them and use madVR on the pc.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> I use a HTPC with madVR, a capture card, and VideoProcessor.org to connect them. It’s a DIY Envy. If using discs, a Panasonic UB420 does really well. Or rip them and use madVR on the pc.


I'm using a Panasonic 820. I'm not sure whether to have it output HDR or SDR for HDR material, though. I've tried it both ways but don't think I see much difference. Any thoughts on this? What to look for or something I might be missing?


----------



## sb1

Anyone here happen to go from an old Epson 8700 to a 5050?


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> I'm using a Panasonic 820. I'm not sure whether to have it output HDR or SDR for HDR material, though. I've tried it both ways but don't think I see much difference. Any thoughts on this? What to look for or something I might be missing?


I converted HDR to SDR. I didn't do much testing but recall liking it better in the limited time I did it.


----------



## PixelPusher15

@DigitalAV









Natural. I got a bit more output here too. 112 nits. Bulb hours are 345 (I underestimated!) 

Here's Digital Cinema








But man, only 55 nits...50% dimmer! Just useless.


----------



## DigitalAV

PixelPusher15 said:


> @DigitalAV
> View attachment 3314228
> 
> 
> Natural. I got a bit more output here too. 112 nits. Bulb hours are 345 (I underestimated!)
> 
> Here's Digital Cinema
> View attachment 3314227
> 
> But man, only 55 nits...50% dimmer! Just useless.


Wow that filter really is stifling, great to know Natural really is still the MVP for native performance

Looking forward to your Cinema and Bright Cinema results! Get to work!!


----------



## hms17B

DigitalAV said:


> Wow that filter really is stifling, great to know Natural really is still the MVP for native performance
> 
> Looking forward to your Cinema and Bright Cinema results! Get to work!!


Why don't all manufacturers just add a "Perfect" mode and be done with it?


----------



## zanat0s

hi,

i Loves this projector though it is too close to the screen and i cannot change that.

I would like to know are there any calibration profiles out there so we can have a superior image? thank you in advance!


----------



## biglen

zanat0s said:


> hi,
> 
> i Loves this projector though it is too close to the screen and i cannot change that.
> 
> I would like to know are there any calibration profiles out there so we can have a superior image? thank you in advance!


Everyone's setup is different so settings that look good with one setup, aren't going to look good for someone else's. Your best bet is to get it professionally calibrated, or buy a calibration disc and do it yourself. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## sage11x

biglen said:


> Everyone's setup is different so settings that look good with one setup, aren't going to look good for someone else's. Your best bet is to get it professionally calibrated, or buy a calibration disc and do it yourself.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You really can’t calibrate with a disc. Brightness and contrast is about all you can do by eye (although that’s arguably the biggest target to hit when calibrating).

If you want to calibrate for color you need a colorimeter. Some companies will sell you a bundle. I really like chroma pure. But even with chroma pure you’ll need a separate signal generator or pattern suite for HDR. Chromapure will sell you a bundle for around $615. I use the HDR suite from mehanik which is only $35 or so. So all in you’re looking at just under $700 with a basic colorimeter. If you want a spectrometer— well you’re looking at at least twice that.


----------



## PixelPusher15

sage11x said:


> You really can’t calibrate with a disc. Brightness and contrast is about all you can do by eye (although that’s arguably the biggest target to hit when calibrating).
> 
> If you want to calibrate for color you need a colorimeter. Some companies will sell you a bundle. I really like chroma pure. But even with chroma pure you’ll need a separate signal generator or pattern suite for HDR. Chromapure will sell you a bundle for around $615. I use the HDR suite from mehanik which is only $35 or so. So all in you’re looking at just under $700 with a basic colorimeter. If you want a spectrometer— well you’re looking at at least twice that.


HCFR!
It's completely possible to calibrate with HCFR and even do HDR for free (not including the meter). If the display allows you to force it into its HDR mode then it works well when you set the references to HDR. There's a learning curve but it's possible. I've calibrated the 5050 in just this way with good results.


----------



## sage11x

PixelPusher15 said:


> HCFR!
> It's completely possible to calibrate with HCFR and even do HDR for free (not including the meter). If the display allows you to force it into its HDR mode then it works well when you set the references to HDR. There's a learning curve but it's possible. I've calibrated the 5050 in just this way with good results.


But you’re using a meter. 

That was my point: you can’t calibrate color with a disc and eye balls. You have to have a tool. Our eyes are really REALLY bad at discerning differences in color. 

HCFR is free. I’ve tried it. Personally, I’d spend the money on chromapure. It’s not that expensive and it’s much easier to use / more intuitive. But that’s at least a discussion. The real cost is the meter!


----------



## PixelPusher15

sage11x said:


> But you’re using a meter.
> 
> That was my point: you can’t calibrate color with a disc and eye balls. You have to have a tool. Our eyes are really REALLY bad at discerning differences in color.
> 
> HCFR is free. I’ve tried it. Personally, I’d spend the money on chromapure. It’s not that expensive and it’s much easier to use / more intuitive. But that’s at least a discussion. The real cost is the meter!


For sure! I guess what I meant to say is that if you catch the meter (Calibrite ColorChecker) on sale you can start calibrating for $200 since HCFR is free.

Maybe I’ll have to look more into Chromapure…


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> For sure! I guess what I meant to say is that if you catch the meter (Calibrite ColorChecker) on sale you can start calibrating for $200 since HCFR is free.
> 
> Maybe I’ll have to look more into Chromapure…


Two "C" notes!!?? That's about 6% of the cost of the 5050UB!!
Prices are from $69 to $7200!!!???? Just *Googled Calibrite ColorChecker*
Obviously, I need to learn more about this. Been using my eyeballs with the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc, that my wife and visitors feel has yielded excellent results. If I can get it better, well then....


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Two "C" notes!!?? That's about 6% of the cost of the 5050UB!!
> Prices are from $69 to $7200!!!???? Just *Googled Calibrite ColorChecker*
> Obviously, I need to learn more about this. Been using my eyeballs with the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc, that my wife and visitors feel has yielded excellent results. If I can get it better, well then....


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0973JMM4S/ref=twister_B097NLDKWN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 

This was on sale for $200. The plus model is only needed for brightere displays.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0973JMM4S/ref=twister_B097NLDKWN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> This was on sale for $200. The plus model is only needed for brightere displays.


Thanks for that. Is it then the simple matter of proceeding to learn everything I need to know from* these 15,000 posts*?


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Thanks for that. Is it then the simple matter of proceeding to learn everything I need to know from* these 15,000 posts*?


Yup 

Actually getting started with the basics and doing an SDR calibration or even just white balancing HDR isn't too bad. There's plenty of people around to help too, including me


----------



## sage11x

fredworld said:


> Two "C" notes!!?? That's about 6% of the cost of the 5050UB!!
> Prices are from $69 to $7200!!!???? Just *Googled Calibrite ColorChecker*
> Obviously, I need to learn more about this. Been using my eyeballs with the Spears & Munsil UHD Benchmark disc, that my wife and visitors feel has yielded excellent results. If I can get it better, well then....


Not to blow your mind but back when I bought my first colorimeter and software I was operating an $850 BenQ HT2050… at the time that kit cost me a little more 50% the price of the projector! 

Of course, it comes in REALLY handy for reviews.  It also comes in handy for my plasma and the many gaming monitors I’ve had throughout the years. Honestly, I can’t be without anymore. Even if I wasn’t reviewing product I’d still want it for my own use. My only caution would be it can take a while to understand some of the practices and concepts. Software like HCFR, IMO, doesn’t make that any easier as it’s really designed as a cost effective tool (it’s free) more than a product to be sold and supported. Chromapure and calman allow you to follow a specific work flow (or create your own) that makes it a lot easier to wrap your head around this stuff if you’re new. Calman is really nice but I found more $$ and more than what I really needed. Chromapure feels a little more friendly for the enthusiast and the wallet and the after sale support is excellent. But I would encourage anyone to jump in of they have the enthusiasm for it. I find that it can make a REAL difference in my enjoyment of a display.


----------



## mattharler

Anyone know if its possible to disable the automatic opening/closing of the lens cover? I'm looking into using a wide conversion lens to get a bigger screen size out of my 5050ub within a small room, but the lens cover presents an obstacle there, as I'm assuming I'd need to mount the conversion lens right up to the projector lens.


----------



## SAM1233

Some basic questions.
1) I use Normal for Iris speed in natural mode, but high speed Iris is better(Bright cinema uses High speed Iris for example). will it damage the projector in the long run if we permanently keep High speed Iris settings. I think its mechanical operation which involves motor for high speed Iris?

2)I am using Panasonic 420 4k player for streaming netflix, Looks like it upconverts 24p movies to 60 p. But Amazon firestick sends as is 24p. Is there a way to send as is.
3) Panasonic 420 player Amazon Prime app does not seem to be 4k. The app is not handling 4k contents properly. Any one noticed?


----------



## SAM1233

mattharler said:


> Anyone know if its possible to disable the automatic opening/closing of the lens cover? I'm looking into using a wide conversion lens to get a bigger screen size out of my 5050ub within a small room, but the lens cover presents an obstacle there, as I'm assuming I'd need to mount the conversion lens right up to the projector lens.


I do not think there is a menu to disable the automatic lens close operation. But the wide conversion lens should be compatible with this.


----------



## fredworld

SAM1233 said:


> Some basic questions.
> 1) I use Normal for Iris speed in natural mode, but high speed Iris is better(Bright cinema uses High speed Iris for example). will it damage the projector in the long run if we permanently keep High speed Iris settings. I think its mechanical operation which involves motor for high speed Iris?
> 
> 2)I am using Panasonic 420 4k player for streaming netflix, Looks like it upconverts 24p movies to 60 p. But Amazon firestick sends as is 24p. Is there a way to send as is.
> 3) Panasonic 420 player Amazon Prime app does not seem to be 4k. The app is not handling 4k contents properly. Any one noticed?


1) Dunno. But logic tells me the more frequently a mechanism is used, the more likely of failure.
2) & 3) see or post in the *Official Panasonic 420 Thread.*


----------



## mattharler

SAM1233 said:


> I do not think there is a menu to disable the automatic lens close operation. But the wide conversion lens should be compatible with this.


Yeah, I happened upon an old post today with pics of someone using one with a 5040ub and it seems the lens sits further away from the projector than expected and shouldn’t interfere with the lens cover.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

PSA:
To anyone still actively using the Epson to watch 3D material. 

I have been doing some un-scientific testing of my 3D glasses, and want to share my findings with you. 
I have 3 different brands of 3D glasses, and you wouldn't think so, but there is a huge difference in the image quality between them. 
Samsung SSG-5150GB, Xpand X105-IR-X1, and HI-shock Pro Deep Heaven. 

On a straight comparison between the 3 brands, hishock is extremely good.
Using Independence day Resurgence 3d bluray, with projector in medium 3d brightness the hishock has 0 crosstalk or ghosting, and the Xpand being the worst.
No matter the setting the Xpand had a lot of ghosting on mid plane, using the depth the ghosting just moved plane to front, it was really bad. The only good thing about Xpand is their large glass size, but the hishock is similar size. 
The Samsung falls somewhere in the middle, and are quite good for the price, if you can find them. Another bonus with the Samsung is they are very lightweight and use button cell batteries, which makes them perfect for backup glasses if you ever wear out the batteries on the rechargeable ones. 
Hishock advertises 60hrs use time with around 300 re-charges so you will have to watch a lot of 3D to wear them out. 

HI-shock as well as Samsung are also the most comfortable to wear, as Samsung is lightweight and Hishock have a rubberized nose bridge, while the xpand feels heavy and a bit clunky..

Happy 3D viewing.


----------



## hms17B

SAM1233 said:


> Some basic questions.
> 1) I use Normal for Iris speed in natural mode, but high speed Iris is better(Bright cinema uses High speed Iris for example). will it damage the projector in the long run if we permanently keep High speed Iris settings. I think its mechanical operation which involves motor for high speed Iris?
> 
> 2)I am using Panasonic 420 4k player for streaming netflix, Looks like it upconverts 24p movies to 60 p. But Amazon firestick sends as is 24p. Is there a way to send as is.
> 3) Panasonic 420 player Amazon Prime app does not seem to be 4k. The app is not handling 4k contents properly. Any one noticed?


Concerning #1 - I've wondered the same. Especially when using Dynamic mode as that seems to close the iris down completely on entirely black material, with a longer return back to the normal range. That appears to indicate that the there's a lot more travel of the iris in Dynamic. Since Dynamic only seems to close the iris all the way on entirely black scenes, and opens it up more usual with any light in the scene, this extra iris closure in Dynamic doesn't seem to me to really be worth it. I think I may dispense with any Dynamic use and may also try normal iris speed for a while. I do find the iris to be necessary in order to get decent black level.


----------



## itsmejson

What ceiling mount do you all recommend for this unit?


----------



## Chandwe2

Dears any recommended source to buy Genuine original Epson lamp with module for Epson Tw9400? (6050 UB) I am based in dubai struggling to find genuine original ones. Epson through their authorized dealers are quoting 3/4 months lead time. After market units are available but I want to buy original Epson one. Any leads will be helpful as this seems to be a popular projector and I am sure many have gone through this already. Appreciate the help
Thanks


----------



## --Sclaws

OEM ELP-LP89 Lamp & Housing for Epson Projectors - 1 Year Jaspertronics Full Support Warranty!


New Epson UHE lamp & housing for the following Epson models: ELPLP89 Lamp Specifications Specifications Data Product Code ELPLP89 Part Type Epson Lamp & Housing - Retail Packaging Warranty Industry Leading 1 Year Warranty Condition New Lamp Type Epson Ultra High Efficiency (UHE) Discounts...




www.jaspertronics.com




No clue about international shipping, but I've had good experiences ordering from them.


----------



## Chandwe2

Thankyou Sclaws will reach out to them it seems they have few options so if you mind me asking did you go for the orginal one or aftermarket are they reliable for original Epson?


----------



## Chandwe2

Contacted


Chandwe2 said:


> Thankyou Sclaws will reach out to them it seems they have few options so if you mind me asking did you go for the orginal one or aftermarket are they reliable for original Epson?


contacted them they say Epson original comes with Ushio bulb as Epson doesn’t make bulbs. Not sure if that claim is true? Any idea


--Sclaws said:


> OEM ELP-LP89 Lamp & Housing for Epson Projectors - 1 Year Jaspertronics Full Support Warranty!
> 
> 
> New Epson UHE lamp & housing for the following Epson models: ELPLP89 Lamp Specifications Specifications Data Product Code ELPLP89 Part Type Epson Lamp & Housing - Retail Packaging Warranty Industry Leading 1 Year Warranty Condition New Lamp Type Epson Ultra High Efficiency (UHE) Discounts...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.jaspertronics.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No clue about international shipping, but I've had good experiences ordering from them.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Chandwe2 said:


> Contacted
> 
> contacted them they say Epson original comes with Ushio bulb as Epson doesn’t make bulbs. Not sure if that claim is true? Any idea


There's only 3 bulb manufacturers. Ushio, Phillips and....crap, can't remember the other. Oh, I think it's Osram. All projector manufacturers get bulbs from these guys. But keep in mind that just because it comes from the same manufacturer doesn't mean its the same quality. There could be binning, meaning the best of the bulbs are saved for true original equipment.


----------



## Chandwe2

PixelPusher15 said:


> There's only 3 bulb manufacturers. Ushio, Phillips and....crap, can't remember the other. Oh, I think it's Osram. All projector manufacturers get bulbs from these guys. But keep in mind that just because it comes from the same manufacturer doesn't mean its the same quality. There could be binning, meaning the best of the bulbs are saved for true original equipment.


This is an owners thread and there’s plenty of people using these projectors where to buy your lamps ? It’s looks the recommendations received so far are aftermarket is the image quality same in aftermarket bulbs vs the OEM ones?


----------



## fredworld

itsmejson said:


> What ceiling mount do you all recommend for this unit?


I'm using the *Sanus VP-1*. It has easy to use adjustment screws for horizontal, vertical, pitch, yaw...all axes. All is needed is a long screw driver to make the projector movement a piece of cake. Locking down each axis position is as easy as turning a screw. Following the installation instructions is simple, too, even for a near mechanical clutz like me.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

itsmejson said:


> What ceiling mount do you all recommend for this unit?


I use a Chief RPAU. Best mount i have had. I have used it with 3 different projectors.


----------



## fredworld

Chandwe2 said:


> This is an owners thread and there’s plenty of people using these projectors where to buy your lamps ? It’s looks the recommendations received so far are aftermarket is the image quality same in aftermarket bulbs vs the OEM ones?


I no longer have an opinion on OEM bulbs, but *here's a post* from a few months back that might have some useful information for you.


----------



## Chandwe2

fredworld said:


> I no longer have an opinion on OEM bulbs, but *here's a post* from a few months back that might have some useful information for you.


Thanks appreciate it..It would be great if you can refer me to a place to get original lamps as it’s not Available for me in my country.


----------



## fredworld

Chandwe2 said:


> Thanks appreciate it..It would be great if you can refer me to a place to get original lamps as it’s not Available for me in my country.


When it comes time to replace my lamp, I'll more than likely purchase *direct from Epson*. I don't want to invite the hassles I had previously as summarized in my above post. But if you're willing to take the risk, then the companies I mentioned in those posts, I think, ship internationally. Other than the unsatisfactory product that I received, their customer service was very good for returns. It looks like you're in the UAE. I'm sorry I'm not aware of any lamp providers outside of the USA. 
Have you asked Epson for a recommended vendor?


----------



## Chandwe2

fredworld said:


> When it comes time to replace my lamp, I'll more than likely purchase *direct from Epson*. I don't want to invite the hassles I had previously as summarized in my above post. But if you're willing to take the risk, then the companies I mentioned in those posts, I think, ship internationally. Other than the unsatisfactory product that I received, their customer service was very good for returns. It looks like you're in the UAE. I'm sorry I'm not aware of any lamp providers outside of the USA.
> Have you asked Epson for a recommended vendor?


Absolutely right I am looking to buy genuine Epson u nfortunately Epson doesn’t sell direction dubai they are directing it to distributors who are quoting 4 months lead time in a way promoting non OEM stuff. So I guess I can’t place order directly with Epson us or Europe so looking for alternate channels who can sell genuine epson. Thanks for your comments and suggestions appreciate it.


----------



## echo997

Just bought a certified refurbished 5050ub and am having trouble with the focus. It looks ok in the middle but the sides of the screen are super unfocused and nothing I do in the focus settings can fix it. Is there something I can do in the settings or did I just get a bunk unit?


----------



## PixelPusher15

echo997 said:


> Just bought a certified refurbished 5050ub and am having trouble with the focus. It looks ok in the middle but the sides of the screen are super unfocused and nothing I do in the focus settings can fix it. Is there something I can do in the settings or did I just get a bunk unit?


Bunk unit. (Assuming you’re not using keystone)


----------



## fredworld

echo997 said:


> Just bought a certified refurbished 5050ub and am having trouble with the focus. It looks ok in the middle but the sides of the screen are super unfocused and nothing I do in the focus settings can fix it. Is there something I can do in the settings or did I just get a bunk unit?





PixelPusher15 said:


> Bunk unit. (Assuming you’re not using keystone)


Check your panel alignment, too.


----------



## hms17B

echo997 said:


> Just bought a certified refurbished 5050ub and am having trouble with the focus. It looks ok in the middle but the sides of the screen are super unfocused and nothing I do in the focus settings can fix it. Is there something I can do in the settings or did I just get a bunk unit?


Is it squared with the screen? That is, projecting straight at the screen, not angled up/down, side-to-side. Check using the Pattern button on the remote.


----------



## NxNW

Is the screen flat? Screens can be surprisingly not-flat. If the screen is flat against the wall, is the _wall_ flat? Walls can be surprisingly not-flat.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Epson 6050 owner recommendations for setup Apple TV 4K? if anyone owns a Zidoo Z9X also interested in recommended setup for that as well thanks.


----------



## hms17B

I've noticed that Dynamic picture mode's more aggressive use of the iris is only noticeable to me on full black images. Then it closes the iris pretty much all the way down. You can tell by looking back at the lens and there's almost no spot of light on it then. But when there's any brightness at all in the image, Dynamic opens the iris just about the same as Natural or Digital Cinema, which I've been comparing it to. So there isn't any real advantage to Dynamic that I can see since there's usually some amount of light in most program material's scenes. Seems that fully closing the iris just makes it travel farther which could cause more wear and tear on it over time seeing that there's a lot of fades to black even if few entirely black scenes. I'm starting to think that Dynamic might be best avoided for this reason if not for others.


----------



## rekbones

hms17B said:


> I've noticed that Dynamic picture mode's more aggressive use of the iris is only noticeable to me on full black images. Then it closes the iris pretty much all the way down. You can tell by looking back at the lens and there's almost no spot of light on it then. But when there's any brightness at all in the image, Dynamic opens the iris just about the same as Natural or Digital Cinema, which I've been comparing it to. So there isn't any real advantage to Dynamic that I can see since there's usually some amount of light in most program material's scenes. Seems that fully closing the iris just makes it travel farther which could cause more wear and tear on it over time seeing that there's a lot of fades to black even if few entirely black scenes. I'm starting to think that Dynamic might be best avoided for this reason if not for others.


You could easily be correct about the increased wear on the mechanism but in my bat cave the true fade to black is a welcomed dramatic effect.


----------



## hms17B

rekbones said:


> You could easily be correct about the increased wear on the mechanism but in my bat cave the true fade to black is a welcomed dramatic effect.


Any taste of the elixir of blackness is sweet.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> I've noticed that Dynamic picture mode's more aggressive use of the iris is only noticeable to me on full black images. Then it closes the iris pretty much all the way down. You can tell by looking back at the lens and there's almost no spot of light on it then. But when there's any brightness at all in the image, Dynamic opens the iris just about the same as Natural or Digital Cinema, which I've been comparing it to. So there isn't any real advantage to Dynamic that I can see since there's usually some amount of light in most program material's scenes. Seems that fully closing the iris just makes it travel farther which could cause more wear and tear on it over time seeing that there's a lot of fades to black even if few entirely black scenes. I'm starting to think that Dynamic might be best avoided for this reason if not for others.


I believe I tested the scene in Gravity where Sandra Bullock is floating off into space and IIRC the black of space was blacker in Dynamic than in Natural. I'd have to go back and check though.

Like @rekbones said, that FFTB is pretty neat when executed well. There is a scene in one of the more recent episodes of For All Mankind where it suddenly and suspensefully fades to black for at least a solid 2 seconds. After a second my wife said, in full blackness in our theater, "well, this is cool".


----------



## luisalbertokid

hms17B said:


> I've noticed that Dynamic picture mode's more aggressive use of the iris is only noticeable to me on full black images. Then it closes the iris pretty much all the way down. You can tell by looking back at the lens and there's almost no spot of light on it then. But when there's any brightness at all in the image, Dynamic opens the iris just about the same as Natural or Digital Cinema, which I've been comparing it to. So there isn't any real advantage to Dynamic that I can see since there's usually some amount of light in most program material's scenes. Seems that fully closing the iris just makes it travel farther which could cause more wear and tear on it over time seeing that there's a lot of fades to black even if few entirely black scenes. I'm starting to think that Dynamic might be best avoided for this reason if not for others.


I prefer cinema mode rather than natural for SDR content. I know it’s not technically correct because of the dci-p3 filter but I really enjoy the extra punch in color (a quasi HDR sim mode 🙂) and black levels seems darker - which is to be expected in most projectors when using a color filter.


----------



## luisalbertokid

WynsWrld98 said:


> Epson 6050 owner recommendations for setup Apple TV 4K? if anyone owns a Zidoo Z9X also interested in recommended setup for that as well thanks.


I’m very curious myself about the Zidoo. Lots of people like to tone map hdr to sdr on projectors and I have read Zidoo is very good at it.


----------



## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> I prefer cinema mode rather than natural for SDR content. I know it’s not technically correct because of the dci-p3 filter but I really enjoy the extra punch in color (a quai HDR sim mode 🙂) and black levels seems darker - which is to be expected in most projectors when using a color filter.


I'd suggest trying Natural and dropping the manual iris down. Contrast/black floor isn't really any better in Cinema or Digital Cinema, it's just darker. Using the manual iris will actually get you an increase in contrast since it reduces stray light. Try that and boosting color saturation a click or two and you may end up with a more punchy image than what you're used to with the a similar boost in color


----------



## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'd suggest trying Natural and dropping the manual iris down. Contrast/black floor isn't really any better in Cinema or Digital Cinema, it's just darker. Using the manual iris will actually get you an increase in contrast since it reduces stray light. Try that and boosting color saturation a click or two and you may end up with a more punchy image than what you're used to with the a similar boost in color


Yep I already use iris in -18 with cinema mode. In natural I close the iris all the way down and still have to set gamma at -1. I really enjoy dark blacks (I should then buy a JVC I Know but there are none in Brasil 😂😂😂).


----------



## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> Yep I already use iris in -18 with cinema mode. In natural I close the iris all the way down and still have to set gamma at -1. I really enjoy dark blacks (I should then buy a JVC I Know but there are none in Brasil 😂😂😂).


How big is your screen??


----------



## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> How big is your screen??


120” 1.1 gain from 3.6 meters (totally dark room). But I’m thinking of getting a gray screen.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> I believe I tested the scene in Gravity where Sandra Bullock is floating off into space and IIRC the black of space was blacker in Dynamic than in Natural. I'd have to go back and check though.
> 
> Like @rekbones said, that FFTB is pretty neat when executed well. There is a scene in one of the more recent episodes of For All Mankind where it suddenly and suspensefully fades to black for at least a solid 2 seconds. After a second my wife said, in full blackness in our theater, "well, this is cool".


Yes, it is nice to actually see virtually true black at least once in a while. The lag in the Dynamic mode iris, though, can be a bit of a problem sometimes. It closes so far that it actually cuts off the image - not a problem on full black, but coming out of it can be a bit messy.


----------



## hms17B

luisalbertokid said:


> Yep I already use iris in -18 with cinema mode. In natural I close the iris all the way down and still have to set gamma at -1. I really enjoy dark blacks (I should then buy a JVC I Know but there are none in Brasil 😂😂😂).


Good to know I'm not alone in setting the iris that far down. It has really helped with the dark scenes. I think I have it at -19. Oddly, when I first tried -20, the whites were all merged, but going up a notch or two they were distinguishable again. With the iris so far down, I find that setting gamma to +1 or +2 gives better distinction in the lower black/grey range. Trying custom gamma hasn't made a whole lot of difference except that an inverted "s" curve seems to look pretty good - 0 at the low and high ends, rising above the line in the low half, and dropping below the line in the upper half.


----------



## luisalbertokid

hms17B said:


> Good to know I'm not alone in setting the iris that far down. It has really helped with the dark scenes. I think I have it at -19. Oddly, when I first tried -20, the whites were all merged, but going up a notch or two they were distinguishable again. With the iris so far down, I find that setting gamma to +1 or +2 gives better distinction in the lower black/grey range. Trying custom gamma hasn't made a whole lot of difference except that an inverted "s" curve seems to look pretty good - 0 at the low and high ends, rising above the line in the low half, and dropping below the line in the upper half.


Yep I read more than once that going all the way to 20 is no good, that's why I'm at 18. And I also have another "cinema setting" for SDR that I occasionally use, with iris at 18 and gamma at -1. Used it some days ago when rewatched Enemy by Denis Villeneuve, very dark movie, it helped with the blacks.


----------



## Sirphatsalot24

fredworld said:


> I no longer have an opinion on OEM bulbs, but *here's a post* from a few months back that might have some useful information for you.


I just wanted to share this. I ordered a replacement bulb from Pureland Supply. I thought it would be fine, but it measured 61 cd/m2 on my screen which seemed dim (high lamp, full iris). Then I measured my original bulb and it was 109 cd/m2 (with over 1,000 hours!). Quite a difference. I thought maybe I just got a bad one, so they sent a replacement. ... same thing, about 61cd/m2.

I guess it's true that you get what you pay for. Maybe I just got two bad ones, but please be aware, that unless it's from Epson, the bulb might be half as bright. I'm sure there are many out there with dim replacement bulbs and they don't even realize it.


----------



## fredworld

Sirphatsalot24 said:


> I just wanted to share this. I ordered a replacement bulb from Pureland Supply. I thought it would be fine, but it measured 61 cd/m2 on my screen which seemed dim (high lamp, full iris). Then I measured my original bulb and it was 109 cd/m2 (with over 1,000 hours!). Quite a difference. I thought maybe I just got a bad one, so they sent a replacement. ... same thing, about 61cd/m2.
> 
> I guess it's true that you get what you pay for. Maybe I just got two bad ones, but please be aware, that unless it's from Epson, the bulb might be half as bright. I'm sure there are many out there with dim replacement bulbs and they don't even realize it.


Thanks for posting and re-establishing an opinion for me.👍


----------



## Biggydeen

hms17B said:


> Good to know I'm not alone in setting the iris that far down. It has really helped with the dark scenes. I think I have it at -19. Oddly, when I first tried -20, the whites were all merged, but going up a notch or two they were distinguishable again. With the iris so far down, I find that setting gamma to +1 or +2 gives better distinction in the lower black/grey range. Trying custom gamma hasn't made a whole lot of difference except that an inverted "s" curve seems to look pretty good - 0 at the low and high ends, rising above the line in the low half, and dropping below the line in the upper half.





luisalbertokid said:


> Yep I read more than once that going all the way to 20 is no good, that's why I'm at 18. And I also have another "cinema setting" for SDR that I occasionally use, with iris at 18 and gamma at -1. Used it some days ago when rewatched Enemy by Denis Villeneuve, very dark movie, it helped with the blacks.


I just found out about the iris setting. But it only works in ECO mode. So basically ECO mode is just a tiny bit less bright vs Medium lamp and with the Iris setting you can bring ECO even down way more. But that also might make things too dark. Are you increasing brightness in some ways to offset the darkness (if that makes any sense..) or only use a higher gamma?

I'm now trying the "Ultimate Dynamic Calibration", set the lamp to dynamic in ECO mode and have the iris at -8. When switching through -8 up to -18 I find -18 a bit dark (running gamma at -1). 

My biggest problem with the UB6050 is the very grey looking picture in very dark scenes (I'm in a total black bat cave using a grey screen). While in brighter scenes blacks look 100% black. I was running Digital Cinema and ECO before so I'll give this dynamic mode a try. The overall picture is very good but those grey scenes take me out everytime.

Any other suggestions to complement dynamic mode / lower iris?


----------



## biglen

luisalbertokid said:


> Yep I read more than once that going all the way to 20 is no good, that's why I'm at 18. And I also have another "cinema setting" for SDR that I occasionally use, with iris at 18 and gamma at -1. Used it some days ago when rewatched Enemy by Denis Villeneuve, very dark movie, it helped with the blacks.


I just checked my iris on the HDR settings that a professional calibrator set up. He has the iris set at 0. Can anyone think of why he set it to 0, and would it be wise to put it to 18?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Biggydeen said:


> I just found out about the iris setting. But it only works in ECO mode. So basically ECO mode is just a tiny bit less bright vs Medium lamp and with the Iris setting you can bring ECO even down way more. But that also might make things too dark. Are you increasing brightness in some ways to offset the darkness (if that makes any sense..) or only use a higher gamma?
> 
> I'm now trying the "Ultimate Dynamic Calibration", set the lamp to dynamic in ECO mode and have the iris at -8. When switching through -8 up to -18 I find -18 a bit dark (running gamma at -1).
> 
> My biggest problem with the UB6050 is the very grey looking picture in very dark scenes (I'm in a total black bat cave using a grey screen). While in brighter scenes blacks look 100% black. I was running Digital Cinema and ECO before so I'll give this dynamic mode a try. The overall picture is very good but those grey scenes take me out everytime.
> 
> Any other suggestions to complement dynamic mode / lower iris?


To get the absolute maximum contrast and lowest black floor I'd try Dynamic mode in Eco with a lower iris setting, or if that is too dark then try Natural in Medium with the iris turned way down. 

Digital Cinema in Eco is pretty dang dim IME. I can't imagine it being bright enough on a grey screen unless your screen is fairly small.


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> I just checked my iris on the HDR settings that a professional calibrator set up. He has the iris set at 0. Can anyone think of why he set it to 0, and would it be wise to put it to 18?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Reducing the iris setting will reduce brightness and increase contrast. If you like it brighter then you want it at 0. If you are ok with it darker and want better contrast then reduce it. I could only use a -18 setting with Natural/high lamp otherwise its too dark for me.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Question. If i force SDR on everything,will the projector show 4K UHD HDR discs with proper SDR colors? Or should I let the Dune handle the HDR->SDR conversion?


----------



## luisalbertokid

Biggydeen said:


> I just found out about the iris setting. But it only works in ECO mode. So basically ECO mode is just a tiny bit less bright vs Medium lamp and with the Iris setting you can bring ECO even down way more. But that also might make things too dark. Are you increasing brightness in some ways to offset the darkness (if that makes any sense..) or only use a higher gamma?
> 
> I'm now trying the "Ultimate Dynamic Calibration", set the lamp to dynamic in ECO mode and have the iris at -8. When switching through -8 up to -18 I find -18 a bit dark (running gamma at -1).
> 
> My biggest problem with the UB6050 is the very grey looking picture in very dark scenes (I'm in a total black bat cave using a grey screen). While in brighter scenes blacks look 100% black. I was running Digital Cinema and ECO before so I'll give this dynamic mode a try. The overall picture is very good but those grey scenes take me out everytime.
> 
> Any other suggestions to complement dynamic mode / lower iris?


I would never increase brightness as it would probably lighten up the blacks. Using gamma at +1 seems a better solution - I have one specific calibration of Digital Cinema with gamma at +1 for really dark content (like Marvel's Eternals in HDR, really really dark) because I think it looks better than Bright Cinema (which has greyish blacks imo). Last night I tried Dynamic for the first time (had never even consider it) and it is not as bad as I thought if you change lamp settings to medium and gamma to -1. Problem is the overall greenish look but I'll take a look at the guide you posted to see if it helps me get rid of the green tint


----------



## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> To get the absolute maximum contrast and lowest black floor I'd try Dynamic mode in Eco with a lower iris setting, or if that is too dark then try Natural in Medium with the iris turned way down.
> 
> Digital Cinema in Eco is pretty dang dim IME. I can't imagine it being bright enough on a grey screen unless your screen is fairly small.


But you can't actually play with the iris in Dynamic, right? Only off, normal and high speed. At least I couldn't, option was greyed out.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Question. If i force SDR on everything,will the projector show 4K UHD HDR discs with proper SDR colors? Or should I let the Dune handle the HDR->SDR conversion?


It won't, the projector does not tone map HDR to SDR, color will be really bad.


----------



## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> But you can't actually play with the iris in Dynamic, right? Only off, normal and high speed. At least I couldn't, option was greyed out.


If you put the lamp in Eco then you can use the iris


----------



## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you put the lamp in Eco then you can use the iris


Cool, thanks, didn't know that 😉


----------



## luisalbertokid

Actually I have the 5040 not the 5050 didn't even notice I was in the wrong thread lol. But anyway I'll try the Dynamic settings mentioned above 👍


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

luisalbertokid said:


> It won't, the projector does not tone map HDR to SDR, color will be really bad.


So how do i disable HDR entirely? Or is that not possible?


----------



## Biggydeen

luisalbertokid said:


> I would never increase brightness as it would probably lighten up the blacks. Using gamma at +1 seems a better solution - I have one specific calibration of Digital Cinema with gamma at +1 for really dark content (like Marvel's Eternals in HDR, really really dark) because I think it looks better than Bright Cinema (which has greyish blacks imo). Last night I tried Dynamic for the first time (had never even consider it) and it is not as bad as I thought if you change lamp settings to medium and gamma to -1. Problem is the overall greenish look but I'll take a look at the guide you posted to see if it helps me get rid of the green tint


Makes sense, I'll try fiddling around with gamma. I noticed dynamic is much brighter vs Digital cinema I used before. I also had a green tint but after applying all the mentioned settings it looks pretty good now. Do need to mention my 6050UB is not calibrated at all so I might get some improvements once I get it calibrated. But I'm a total noob on that part.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Biggydeen said:


> I just found out about the iris setting. But it only works in ECO mode. So basically ECO mode is just a tiny bit less bright vs Medium lamp and with the Iris setting you can bring ECO even down way more. But that also might make things too dark. Are you increasing brightness in some ways to offset the darkness (if that makes any sense..) or only use a higher gamma?
> 
> I'm now trying the "Ultimate Dynamic Calibration", set the lamp to dynamic in ECO mode and have the iris at -8. When switching through -8 up to -18 I find -18 a bit dark (running gamma at -1).
> 
> My biggest problem with the UB6050 is the very grey looking picture in very dark scenes (I'm in a total black bat cave using a grey screen). While in brighter scenes blacks look 100% black. I was running Digital Cinema and ECO before so I'll give this dynamic mode a try. The overall picture is very good but those grey scenes take me out everytime.
> 
> Any other suggestions to complement dynamic mode / lower iris?


Thanks for posting the Ultimate Dynamic Calibration, will try it tonight!
I have a doubt though: what is this "Greyscale"settings (8: 0,0,-5, 7: 0,0,-2, 6: 2,0,1, 5: 2,0,2, 4: 1,0,3, 3:-1,0,3, 2: -1,0,1, 1: 0,0,0).
Thx!


----------



## Biggydeen

luisalbertokid said:


> Thanks for posting the Ultimate Dynamic Calibration, will try it tonight!
> I have a doubt though: what is this "Greyscale"settings (8: 0,0,-5, 7: 0,0,-2, 6: 2,0,1, 5: 2,0,2, 4: 1,0,3, 3:-1,0,3, 2: -1,0,1, 1: 0,0,0).
> Thx!


You can go into the greyscale menu (think it's under advanced) and you can change all greyscales from 8 to 1. After applying everything it looked pretty good to me.

And I presonally added the iris setting by running ECO mode. Medium is used in the guide but that's a bit bright on my 105" grey screen. So I prefer ECO and fiddling around with the iris to get even better blacks and maybe up the gamma a bit. Also, I'm not sure if it makes a big difference but running in ECO mode should save a few hundred hours of lamp time vs medium.

Edit:

You can also use that same guide for dynamic HDR with some additional settings. Everyone in the comments seem to really like these settings so you can always try it out if you run HDR content.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Biggydeen said:


> You can go into the greyscale menu (think it's under advanced) and you can change all greyscales from 8 to 1. After applying everything it looked pretty good to me.
> 
> And I presonally added the iris setting by running ECO mode. Medium is used in the guide but that's a bit bright on my 105" grey screen. So I prefer ECO and fiddling around with the iris to get even better blacks and maybe up the gamma a bit. Also, I'm not sure if it makes a big difference but running in ECO mode should save a few hundred hours of lamp time vs medium.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> You can also use that same guide for dynamic HDR with some additional settings. Everyone in the comments seem to really like these settings so you can always try it out if you run HDR content.


Thanks. There isn’t a grayscale menu on the 5040 unfortunately, I guess it’s something that was added to the 5050. I think Dynamic can work for hdr and I’ll try the suggested settings but for sdr I think cinema mode is already great 😉


----------



## hms17B

Biggydeen said:


> I just found out about the iris setting. But it only works in ECO mode. So basically ECO mode is just a tiny bit less bright vs Medium lamp and with the Iris setting you can bring ECO even down way more. But that also might make things too dark. Are you increasing brightness in some ways to offset the darkness (if that makes any sense..) or only use a higher gamma?
> 
> I'm now trying the "Ultimate Dynamic Calibration", set the lamp to dynamic in ECO mode and have the iris at -8. When switching through -8 up to -18 I find -18 a bit dark (running gamma at -1).
> 
> My biggest problem with the UB6050 is the very grey looking picture in very dark scenes (I'm in a total black bat cave using a grey screen). While in brighter scenes blacks look 100% black. I was running Digital Cinema and ECO before so I'll give this dynamic mode a try. The overall picture is very good but those grey scenes take me out everytime.
> 
> Any other suggestions to complement dynamic mode / lower iris?


I've tried Dynamic, but I'm starting to think I like Natural or Digital Cinema better. Dynamic can get really dark on fade to black, but otherwise I'm not seeing enough difference to be worth its garishness. I too hate when dark scenes are too light, just ruins the whole experience. So far, the best I'm finding is to set the manual iris way down, with Brightness down a notch or two, Contrast down a ways, Gamma at +2. Gamma at minus values makes mids a bit too dark.

But I will take a look at that Dynamic Calibration. If that can remedy the shortcomings, maybe that is the way to go.

Just added:
I'm looking at that Dynamic Calibration article now and am definitely going to try as much as I can. I don't have a meter yet but maybe this can get me a bit better than I've managed so far.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Reducing the iris setting will reduce brightness and increase contrast. If you like it brighter then you want it at 0. If you are ok with it darker and want better contrast then reduce it. I could only use a -18 setting with Natural/high lamp otherwise its too dark for me.


There's a lot of personal preference here. I like the depth that that a bit darker image gives and think a really bright picture looks kind of flat. But others see it just the opposite.


----------



## hms17B

luisalbertokid said:


> I would never increase brightness as it would probably lighten up the blacks. Using gamma at +1 seems a better solution - I have one specific calibration of Digital Cinema with gamma at +1 for really dark content (like Marvel's Eternals in HDR, really really dark) because I think it looks better than Bright Cinema (which has greyish blacks imo). Last night I tried Dynamic for the first time (had never even consider it) and it is not as bad as I thought if you change lamp settings to medium and gamma to -1. Problem is the overall greenish look but I'll take a look at the guide you posted to see if it helps me get rid of the green tint


Brightness at its default of 50 is as high as you can go from my experience. Raising just to 51 lightens up black and you never want to lighten up the darkest black. Lowering Brightness to 49, 48, maybe 47 might make black a little darker, but below that, black stays the same and the rest of the image just gets darker which ruins it.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Well I experimented with the Dynamic settings and it looked promising with HDR - used the suggested custom gamma (by the way, the first slider is "0" or "1"?), lamp in Eco and Iris in -18. Still have some greenish tint but not terrible on real content - very visible in the menus, like the white Kodi logo, but that's ok. Too bad the 5040 does not have the grayscale menu the 5050 has, but it seems I now have a viable option for very dark movies! 😉


----------



## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> Well I experimented with the Dynamic settings and it looked promising with HDR - used the suggested custom gamma (by the way, the first slider is "0" or "1"?), lamp in Eco and Iris in -18. Still have some greenish tint but not terrible on real content - very visible in the menus, like the white Kodi logo, but that's ok. Too bad the 5040 does not have the grayscale menu the 5050 has, but it seems I now have a viable option for very dark movies! 😉


Try bringing the green gain down, also blue. Just go straight to 40 with the green and like 43/44 with blue. This will reduce some brightness (and contrast) but should help with color temp. Also try dropping the skin tone setting to 0 or 1 before and after adjusting the gains. See what you like.


----------



## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> Try bringing the green gain down, also blue. Just go straight to 40 with the green and like 43/44 with blue. This will reduce some brightness (and contrast) but should help with color temp. Also try dropping the skin tone setting to 0 or 1 before and after adjusting the gains. See what you like.


Thanks for the feedback. Do you prefer the custom gamma setting or gamma at -1 (-2 seems to crush black levels too much).
Thx 👍🏻


----------



## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> Thanks for the feedback. Do you prefer the custom gamma setting or gamma at -1 (-2 seems to crush black levels too much).
> Thx 👍🏻


I calibrate to 2.2 or 2.3 gamma. 2.4 works on higher contrast displays IMO. On these Epsons, 0 is supposed to be 2.2, -1 = 2.3, and -2 = 2.4. But each one is a bit different. My 5050 measured around 2.2 when set to -2 when the bulb was 200 hours old. Now at 400 hours, -2 is around 2.4 like it should be. 

At the end of the day, use what you prefer.


----------



## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> I calibrate to 2.2 or 2.3 gamma. 2.4 works on higher contrast displays IMO. On these Epsons, 0 is supposed to be 2.2, -1 = 2.3, and -2 = 2.4. But each one is a bit different. My 5050 measured around 2.2 when set to -2 when the bulb was 200 hours old. Now at 400 hours, -2 is around 2.4 like it should be.
> 
> At the end of the day, use what you prefer.


Well, calibrated Dynamic for HDR. It is surprisingly good, but it isn't as bright as I expected. As a matter of fact, I find Digital Cinema with gamma at +1 better and with more detail in dark scenes (watched ep1 of House of the Dragon and omg why are so many movies and series being shot so darkly?).


----------



## Biggydeen

hms17B said:


> I've tried Dynamic, but I'm starting to think I like Natural or Digital Cinema better. Dynamic can get really dark on fade to black, but otherwise I'm not seeing enough difference to be worth its garishness. I too hate when dark scenes are too light, just ruins the whole experience. So far, the best I'm finding is to set the manual iris way down, with Brightness down a notch or two, Contrast down a ways, Gamma at +2. Gamma at minus values makes mids a bit too dark.
> 
> But I will take a look at that Dynamic Calibration. If that can remedy the shortcomings, maybe that is the way to go.
> 
> Just added:
> I'm looking at that Dynamic Calibration article now and am definitely going to try as much as I can. I don't have a meter yet but maybe this can get me a bit better than I've managed so far.


Dynamic seems off in my room also. Colors on Digital Cinema are much better. But that's prob because I have zero calibration. Just to recap, you are using the following settings (?):


Digital Cinema ECO
Brightness -2
Gamma +2
Contrast down a bit
Iris -18
Without trying this, this seems very dark. But I'll give it a go.

Are you aware you also need to set the dynamic range to match the output of your steaming device? For example, I'm running 4-2-2 chroma which requires you to limit the dynamic range to 16-254 instead of 0-254 (RGB). Using the wrong dynamic range crushes black levels.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Biggydeen said:


> Are you aware you also need to set the dynamic range to match the output of your steaming device? For example, I'm running 4-2-2 chroma which requires you to limit the dynamic range to 16-254 instead of 0-254 (RGB). Using the wrong dynamic range crushes black levels.


Oh, no no no. This isn't how this works. Chroma resolution is resolution, it has no impact on dynamic range. Also, dynamic range != to video levels. Mismatching your video levels can impact dynamic range but they are not the same thing. Your video levels should match what your source is putting out. If its a BD player, streamer, etc then it should most likely be 16-235. If its a PC then 0-255 should work. These are based on defaults. Of course, you could change your streamer to 0-255 and your PC to 16-235. But there isn't much reason to do custom stuff like that. 

Also, pretty much all content is mastered and delivered at 420. Setting it to 422 or 444 will probably not make much of a noticeable difference. There could be some devices that will internally upscale the chroma but I doubt they're good enough to notice. Now if you're on a PC and are gaming, there for sure is a difference when its set to 444.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Biggydeen said:


> Dynamic seems off in my room also. Colors on Digital Cinema are much better. But that's prob because I have zero calibration. Just to recap, you are using the following settings (?):
> 
> 
> Digital Cinema ECO
> Brightness -2
> Gamma +2
> Contrast down a bit
> Iris -18
> Without trying this, this seems very dark. But I'll give it a go.
> 
> Are you aware you also need to set the dynamic range to match the output of your steaming device? For example, I'm running 4-2-2 chroma which requires you to limit the dynamic range to 16-254 instead of 0-254 (RGB). Using the wrong dynamic range crushes black levels.


Try the "Ultimate Dynamic Calibration" mentioned earlier, although it's for the 5050 I thought it worked well on my 5040. Also I see no point in decreasing brightness and upping gamma - as a matter of fact I believe you would be better leaving brightness at 50 and lowering gamma to -1 (or using the custom gamma, I'm doing that and it looks good). But if your goal is to have a brighter image I honestly prefer Digital Cinema (I use ProjectorReviews updated calibration) with gamma at +1, colors look way better and there is more detail on the blacks - Dynamic crushes it a bit imo.


----------



## WynsWrld98

Dumb question is EDID Normal/Expanded need to be changed for each source? My sources are Apple TV 4K, Zidoo Z9X and Directv streaming box not sure how the Epson EDID setting is supposed to be set and if it needs to set differently as I change source.


----------



## PixelPusher15

WynsWrld98 said:


> Dumb question is EDID Normal/Expanded need to be changed for each source? My sources are Apple TV 4K, Zidoo Z9X and Directv streaming box not sure how the Epson EDID setting is supposed to be set and if it needs to set differently as I change source.


Just put it to Expanded for all the things


----------



## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> Oh, no no no. This isn't how this works. Chroma resolution is resolution, it has no impact on dynamic range. Also, dynamic range != to video levels. Mismatching your video levels can impact dynamic range but they are not the same thing. Your video levels should match what your source is putting out. If its a BD player, streamer, etc then it should most likely be 16-235. If its a PC then 0-255 should work. These are based on defaults. Of course, you could change your streamer to 0-255 and your PC to 16-235. But there isn't much reason to do custom stuff like that.
> 
> Also, pretty much all content is mastered and delivered at 420. Setting it to 422 or 444 will probably not make much of a noticeable difference. There could be some devices that will internally upscale the chroma but I doubt they're good enough to notice. Now if you're on a PC and are gaming, there for sure is a difference when its set to 444.


Correct and when you say "PC" it does not mean "watching a movie on a PC" because the content is still 16 - 235 (the "limited" or "normal" RGB). 0 - 255 (the so called "expanded" RGB) should be used with graphics and stuff like that that are computer generated (like a data presentation) and I believe with games (not sure about that because the last time I played video games was in 1984).


----------



## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> Just put it to Expanded for all the things


No no no, expanded is not meant for home video (streaming, BD, UHD BD, television) because all domestic content is mastered in 16 - 235. By setting your gear to expanded your player/display will "try" to read information that is not there (blacks below 16 and withes above 235) and as a consequence of that the image will look washed out.


----------



## Biggydeen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Oh, no no no. This isn't how this works. Chroma resolution is resolution, it has no impact on dynamic range. Also, dynamic range != to video levels. Mismatching your video levels can impact dynamic range but they are not the same thing. Your video levels should match what your source is putting out. If its a BD player, streamer, etc then it should most likely be 16-235. If its a PC then 0-255 should work. These are based on defaults. Of course, you could change your streamer to 0-255 and your PC to 16-235. But there isn't much reason to do custom stuff like that.
> 
> Also, pretty much all content is mastered and delivered at 420. Setting it to 422 or 444 will probably not make much of a noticeable difference. There could be some devices that will internally upscale the chroma but I doubt they're good enough to notice. Now if you're on a PC and are gaming, there for sure is a difference when its set to 444.


Ohh, maybe I used the wrong word (chroma) in this context. I meant the "limited" setting. So you need to set the projector to 16-254 if you are using limited otherwise all blacks and other stuff gets washed out. I'm running 420 + limited on my PC and play movies using MPV which makes it possible to apply reShade filters to any movie.




luisalbertokid said:


> Try the "Ultimate Dynamic Calibration" mentioned earlier, although it's for the 5050 I thought it worked well on my 5040. Also I see no point in decreasing brightness and upping gamma - as a matter of fact I believe you would be better leaving brightness at 50 and lowering gamma to -1 (or using the custom gamma, I'm doing that and it looks good). But if your goal is to have a brighter image I honestly prefer Digital Cinema (I use ProjectorReviews updated calibration) with gamma at +1, colors look way better and there is more detail on the blacks - Dynamic crushes it a bit imo.


I did try it (I was the one that mentioned it  ) but I find the colors a bit weird. It looks fine at first but when switching back to digital cinema that seems to look better. My goal is best blacks but not sacrifice everything to make the overall picture too dark if that makes sense. Do you mind sharing a link to the updated calibration? I can't seem to find it, thanks!


----------



## luisalbertokid

Biggydeen said:


> Ohh, maybe I used the wrong word (chroma) in this context. I meant the "limited" setting. So you need to set the projector to 16-254 if you are using limited otherwise all blacks and other stuff gets washed out. I'm running 420 + limited on my PC and play movies using MPV which makes it possible to apply reShade filters to any movie.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did try it (I was the one that mentioned it  ) but I find the colors a bit weird. It looks fine at first but when switching back to digital cinema that seems to look better. My goal is best blacks but not sacrifice everything to make the overall picture too dark if that makes sense. Do you mind sharing a link to the updated calibration? I can't seem to find it, thanks!


Yes that's correct whenever you're watching content mastered for home (even if you are using a PC as player) you should default to "limited" RGB (or just set it to Auto and forget about it). But if you are a computer artist/designer be sure to show your portfolio in Expanded 🤓
Agree about Dynamic, colors are off but nonetheless rich and saturated (House of the Dragons had a pretty nice look with orange leafs and kind of a golden/brownish grass - it must be wrong I guess but it looked beautiful). And Dynamic with the custom gamma (or -1 or even -2) has deeper blacks (even deeper than Digital C.) but with loss of information. Gamma at 0 has less "inky" blacks but with more detail - since the 5040 does not have the famous HDR slider the 5050 has I have different calibrations for HDR D. Cin and SDR Cin. where I basically change gamma and iris settings to have the image darker or lighter, and I change preset calibration according to content, which is easy since you can load profiles from the remote 👍


----------



## luisalbertokid

luisalbertokid said:


> Yes that's correct whenever you're watching content mastered for home (even if you are using a PC as player) you should default to "limited" RGB (or just set it to Auto and forget about it). But if you are a computer artist/designer be sure to show your portfolio in Expanded 🤓
> Agree about Dynamic, colors are off but nonetheless rich and saturated (House of the Dragons had a pretty nice look with orange leafs and kind of a golden/brownish grass - it must be wrong I guess but it looked beautiful). And Dynamic with the custom gamma (or -1 or even -2) has deeper blacks (even deeper than Digital C.) but with loss of information. Gamma at 0 has less "inky" blacks but with more detail - since the 5040 does not have the famous HDR slider the 5050 has I have different calibrations for HDR D. Cin and SDR Cin. where I basically change gamma and iris settings to have the image darker or lighter, and I change preset calibration according to content, which is easy since you can load profiles on the remote 👍


----------



## luisalbertokid

luisalbertokid said:


> Yes that's correct whenever you're watching content mastered for home (even if you are using a PC as player) you should default to "limited" RGB (or just set it to Auto and forget about it). But if you are a computer artist/designer be sure to show your portfolio in Expanded 🤓
> Agree about Dynamic, colors are off but nonetheless rich and saturated (House of the Dragons had a pretty nice look with orange leafs and kind of a golden/brownish grass - it must be wrong I guess but it looked beautiful). And Dynamic with the custom gamma (or -1 or even -2) has deeper blacks (even deeper than Digital C.) but with loss of information. Gamma at 0 has less "inky" blacks but with more detail - since the 5040 does not have the famous HDR slider the 5050 has I have different calibrations for HDR D. Cin and SDR Cin. where I basically change gamma and iris settings to have the image darker or lighter, and I change preset calibration according to content, which is easy since you can load profiles on the remote 👍


----------



## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> Correct and when you say "PC" it does not mean "watching a movie on a PC" because the content is still 16 - 235 (the "limited" or "normal" RGB). 0 - 255 (the so called "expanded" RGB) should be used with graphics and stuff like that that are computer generated (like a data presentation) and I believe with games (not sure about that because the last time I played video games was in 1984).


I was referring to the EDID, not video range.


----------



## biglen

luisalbertokid said:


> Yes that's correct whenever you're watching content mastered for home (even if you are using a PC as player) you should default to "limited" RGB (or just set it to Auto and forget about it). But if you are a computer artist/designer be sure to show your portfolio in Expanded
> Agree about Dynamic, colors are off but nonetheless rich and saturated (House of the Dragons had a pretty nice look with orange leafs and kind of a golden/brownish grass - it must be wrong I guess but it looked beautiful). And Dynamic with the custom gamma (or -1 or even -2) has deeper blacks (even deeper than Digital C.) but with loss of information. Gamma at 0 has less "inky" blacks but with more detail - since the 5040 does not have the famous HDR slider the 5050 has I have different calibrations for HDR D. Cin and SDR Cin. where I basically change gamma and iris settings to have the image darker or lighter, and I change preset calibration according to content, which is easy since you can load profiles from the remote


I'm using a PC with MadVR and use Full, not Limited. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Biggydeen

biglen said:


> I'm using a PC with MadVR and use Full, not Limited.


Does that mean MadVR is doing the conversion to 16-254? I've been reading a bit and the playback software also converts the dynamic range (correct me if i'm wrong). So basicially if you set PC to limited and MadVR is also set to limited (if that is possible) then there would be a 2x conversion instead of one when you set Windows to full. Is that the reason you're using Full?



luisalbertokid said:


> Well I experimented with the Dynamic settings and it looked promising with HDR - used the suggested custom gamma (by the way, the first slider is "0" or "1"?), lamp in Eco and Iris in -18. Still have some greenish tint but not terrible on real content - very visible in the menus, like the white Kodi logo, but that's ok. Too bad the 5040 does not have the grayscale menu the 5050 has, but it seems I now have a viable option for very dark movies! 😉


Do you run most in ECO mode? Did some testing yesterday and iris at very low (plus lower gamma) does make dark scenes much better. But I also noticed that brighter scenes are way to dark for my taste. It seems like medium lamp increases the brightness during day scenes a lot and creates a pretty good contrast with the lower iris settings.

I always thought ECO mode would be better for darker scenes because ECO has less light output. But I just realized yesterday that is not true and does not make even sense. Because in darker scenes there is almost no light in the first place... I saw zero difference between ECO and Medium when I switched between them during dark scenes. But medium does have a big impact on day scenes which makes it a nice combination with lower iris/gamma settings.

Tho biggest drawbacks on ECO vs Medium lamp is that the projector is making more noise and lamp life time is reduced by 1500 hours.

Ohh and btw you can't use the iris setting in dynamic mode with the lamp on medium so you're stuck on ECO if you want lower iris in dynamic mode.


----------



## NxNW

WynsWrld98 said:


> Dumb question is EDID Normal/Expanded need to be changed for each source?





PixelPusher15 said:


> Just put it to Expanded for all the things





luisalbertokid said:


> No no no, expanded is not meant for home video (streaming, BD, UHD BD, television) because all domestic content is mastered in 16 - 235. By setting your gear to expanded your player/display will "try" to read information that is not there (blacks below 16 and withes above 235) and as a consequence of that the image will look washed out.


@luisalbertokid , we're talking about EDID

The reason not to set EDID to expanded is if your HDMI handshake fails with older devices. Otherwise "Just put it to Expanded for all the things"

WynsWrld98 is not talking about video levels here


----------



## JMelhado

Hi Epson owners, I have a 6050 that I purchased in December and the bulb seemed to fail at 440hrs according to the blue blinking status light and orange lamp light on the projector. It wouldn’t display anything and kept saying unusable signal until I swapped the bulb out. I know this sounds paranoid but it doesn’t seem like the cool down cycle is very long at about 6 seconds after shut down and fan turns off. Can some one please check after watching something how long there 5050 or 6050 flashes the blue status light and fan shuts off after powering down. I’m wondering if it’s prematurely shutting off and causing lamp to fail to soon? I usually watch movies and stream with projector in cinema or dynamic mode on medium power. Thanks for any help or advice you can give!


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## PixelPusher15

JMelhado said:


> Hi Epson owners, I have a 6050 that I purchased in December and the bulb seemed to fail at 440hrs according to the blue blinking status light and orange lamp light on the projector. It wouldn’t display anything and kept saying unusable signal until I swapped the bulb out. I know this sounds paranoid but it doesn’t seem like the cool down cycle is very long at about 6 seconds after shut down and fan turns off. Can some one please check after watching something how long there 5050 or 6050 flashes the blue status light and fan shuts off after powering down. I’m wondering if it’s prematurely shutting off and causing lamp to fail to soon? I usually watch movies and stream with projector in cinema or dynamic mode on medium power. Thanks for any help or advice you can give!


First off, that’s bad and you should contact Epson for a new bulb.


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## luisalbertokid

JMelhado said:


> Hi Epson owners, I have a 6050 that I purchased in December and the bulb seemed to fail at 440hrs according to the blue blinking status light and orange lamp light on the projector. It wouldn’t display anything and kept saying unusable signal until I swapped the bulb out. I know this sounds paranoid but it doesn’t seem like the cool down cycle is very long at about 6 seconds after shut down and fan turns off. Can some one please check after watching something how long there 5050 or 6050 flashes the blue status light and fan shuts off after powering down. I’m wondering if it’s prematurely shutting off and causing lamp to fail to soon? I usually watch movies and stream with projector in cinema or dynamic mode on medium power. Thanks for any help or advice you can give!


I have a 5040 and it completely shuts down really fast. I was used to my previous BenQ 3550 that took forever and I also thought there was something wrong at first (or that I had bought a laser projector without knowing 😂).


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## Biggydeen

JMelhado said:


> Hi Epson owners, I have a 6050 that I purchased in December and the bulb seemed to fail at 440hrs according to the blue blinking status light and orange lamp light on the projector. It wouldn’t display anything and kept saying unusable signal until I swapped the bulb out. I know this sounds paranoid but it doesn’t seem like the cool down cycle is very long at about 6 seconds after shut down and fan turns off. Can some one please check after watching something how long there 5050 or 6050 flashes the blue status light and fan shuts off after powering down. I’m wondering if it’s prematurely shutting off and causing lamp to fail to soon? I usually watch movies and stream with projector in cinema or dynamic mode on medium power. Thanks for any help or advice you can give!


My 6050UB turns off in just a few seconds after shutting it down.


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## Hopinater

JMelhado said:


> Hi Epson owners, I have a 6050 that I purchased in December and the bulb seemed to fail at 440hrs according to the blue blinking status light and orange lamp light on the projector. It wouldn’t display anything and kept saying unusable signal until I swapped the bulb out. I know this sounds paranoid but it doesn’t seem like the cool down cycle is very long at about 6 seconds after shut down and fan turns off. Can some one please check after watching something how long there 5050 or 6050 flashes the blue status light and fan shuts off after powering down. I’m wondering if it’s prematurely shutting off and causing lamp to fail to soon? I usually watch movies and stream with projector in cinema or dynamic mode on medium power. Thanks for any help or advice you can give!


My 5050 shuts down within a few seconds after I turn it off.


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## hms17B

I've been looking at that Ultimate Dynamic Calibration and somewhere in there he says to turn the projector on with the iris off until it warms up and you start to watch something, then set iris to high. Any comments on that? Good idea, doesn't matter, whatever?


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## jwc1969

biglen said:


> I just checked my iris on the HDR settings that a professional calibrator set up. He has the iris set at 0. Can anyone think of why he set it to 0, and would it be wise to put it to 18?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Regarding the Epson, as a professional calibrator myself, I too leave the iris at zero when in HDR. We're trying to improve specular highlights thus we want as much light as possible thrown against the screen. (And let's not forget, HDR in the <$50,000 consumer projector world is a bit of a misnomer. Projectors mortals can afford do not produce enough light for true HDR. Think of it as SDR+ in that it's nominally brighter than regular HDR and has a more robust color space working for it.) One can consider using the iris when one is watching SDR content. For example, my 5050UB, when I calibrate using low lamp, a -2 gamma and tweaked 8-pt greyscale, still puts out a picture in the range of 25 foot lamberts. Remember that a regular movie theater (in other words not Dolby Cinema or IMAX or another specialty format) with a fresh bulb is happy to achieve 14-16 fL. (If one is a trained calibrator, at least if trained by the THX company, 14-16 fL is what we calibrate to for a projector to mimic theaters.) Thus the 25 fL calibrated SDR is too bright. At least in theory. YMMV. So I close the iris in SDR to about -8 to achieve about 18-20fL. Again, this is personal preference and how I was trained. And this is in a completely black theater. If one has ambient light, one should consider leaving it at that 25 fL output. Once again, this is related to my projector specifically. All these numbers will be different for your projector. Which is why sharing very specific settings (eg: iris and grayscale, etc.) is a bad idea. (This in the LED/OLED world too.) Anyway, my $0.02. Enjoy. (PS: I think for the money, if properly calibrated, the 5050UB (and 6050UB) are incredible values. The blacks are unbelievable for the price IMHO.


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## PixelPusher15

jwc1969 said:


> We're trying to improve specular highlights thus we want as much light as possible thrown against the screen.


I’ve got to disagree here. HDR isn’t just about specular highlights, it’s about Dynamic Range, lifelike highlights COMBINED with lifelike black levels. That’s where I agree with the fact that with projectors (ALL projectors not named the Eclipse) it’s just SDR. We can’t modulate certain parts of the frame to increase contrast and get that real HDR effect. Not even the $80k 10,000 lumen Sony GTZ380. It is still just doing SDR in reality. If we throw more light at the screen, it doesn’t give us High Dynamic Range, it just gives us High Brightness. We have to balance the highlights with the lowlights on projectors because if you favor one, you’re sacrificing the other.

I personally target around 70-75 nits on the 5050 for SDR and HDR because I find going higher than that kills black level for dark scenes in my velvet pit.

I think most prefer SDR brighter than 16fL if given the opportunity. The cinema spec doesn’t seem to really translate over to home cinema. Plus, SDR is mastered at 100 nits anyway. So 16fL (55 nits) isn’t even what the colorist/grader saw during production.


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## jwc1969

PixelPusher15 said:


> I’ve got to disagree here. HDR isn’t just about specular highlights, it’s about Dynamic Range, lifelike highlights COMBINED with lifelike black levels. That’s where I agree with the fact that with projectors (ALL projectors not named the Eclipse) it’s just SDR. We can’t modulate certain parts of the frame to increase contrast and get that real HDR effect. Not even the $80k 10,000 lumen Sony GTZ380. It is still just doing SDR in reality. If we throw more light at the screen, it doesn’t give us High Dynamic Range, it just gives us High Brightness. We have to balance the highlights with the lowlights on projectors because if you favor one, you’re sacrificing the other.
> 
> I personally target around 70-75 nits on the 5050 for SDR and HDR because I find going higher than that kills black level for dark scenes in my velvet pit.
> 
> I think most prefer SDR brighter than 16fL if given the opportunity. The cinema spec doesn’t seem to really translate over to home cinema. Plus, SDR is mastered at 100 nits anyway. So 16fL (55 nits) isn’t even what the colorist/grader saw during production.


Love differing opinions/debate! Good for all of us in this awesome hobby. Probably no right/wrong answer here. Depends on what the eyes like. Couple things: still feel strongly that for projector faux-HDR the more light we can throw at the screen the better. (Although that said I use the lamp at medium for HDR as high lamp is too loud for me fan-wise. As mentioned I do SDR at low lamp.) How do I address blacks/dynamic range possibly being washed out? I set the auto-iris to max. Some are bothered by the pumping. Doesn't bother me and works great IMHO. Does wonders for the blacks even with the manual iris to zero. And then I get the pop of those specular highlights like a street lamp in the background. As for SDR my eyes humbly get fatigued with the manual iris set to zero. Too bright for me. Thus I fudge it closer to the 14-16 fL one gets at a theater. Enjoy!


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## biglen

jwc1969 said:


> Regarding the Epson, as a professional calibrator myself, I too leave the iris at zero when in HDR. We're trying to improve specular highlights thus we want as much light as possible thrown against the screen. (And let's not forget, HDR in the OLED world too.) Anyway, my $0.02. Enjoy. (PS: I think for the money, if properly calibrated, the 5050UB (and 6050UB) are incredible values. The blacks are unbelievable for the price IMHO.


Kevin Miller from ISFTV calibrated my 5050. I just checked his SDR setup and he has the iris at -12


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hms17B

jwc1969 said:


> Love differing opinions/debate! Good for all of us in this awesome hobby. Probably no right/wrong answer here. Depends on what the eyes like. Couple things: still feel strongly that for projector faux-HDR the more light we can throw at the screen the better. (Although that said I use the lamp at medium for HDR as high lamp is too loud for me fan-wise. As mentioned I do SDR at low lamp.) How do I address blacks/dynamic range possibly being washed out? I set the auto-iris to max. Some are bothered by the pumping. Doesn't bother me and works great IMHO. Does wonders for the blacks even with the manual iris to zero. And then I get the pop of those specular highlights like a street lamp in the background. As for SDR my eyes humbly get fatigued with the manual iris set to zero. Too bright for me. Thus I fudge it closer to the 14-16 fL one gets at a theater. Enjoy!


What about the really dark scenes - where there's no bright present? That's where I find the manual iris to be needed. If I leave it at 0, it's just not dark enough in the dark places even with dynamic iris on. Do you set other things so that an all dark scene actually looks dark? I haven't found anything yet that does that without using the manual iris.


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## DavidK442

hms17B said:


> What about the really dark scenes - where there's no bright present? That's where I find the manual iris to be needed. If I leave it at 0, it's just not dark enough in the dark places even with dynamic iris on. Do you set other things so that an all dark scene actually looks dark? I haven't found anything yet that does that without using the manual iris.


An age old compromise with contrast limited displays. Endless discussion over the years. Neutral Density optical filters. Grey “high contrast” screens. Lamp and laser output settings. Manual and Auto iris settings. Around and around it goes. 
Video enthusiasts find a compromise they can live with and pine away for a higher contrast, ridiculously expensive high contrast projector. Or they jump off the projector train and settle for a small but infinite contrast OLED.


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## luisalbertokid

DavidK442 said:


> ...Grey “high contrast” screens...


Have been thinking about that for a long time but keep changing my mind every now and then since everyone has a totally different opinion 😬


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## hms17B

DavidK442 said:


> An age old compromise with contrast limited displays. Endless discussion over the years. Neutral Density optical filters. Grey “high contrast” screens. Lamp and laser output settings. Manual and Auto iris settings. Around and around it goes.
> Video enthusiasts find a compromise they can live with and pine away for a higher contrast, ridiculously expensive high contrast projector. Or they jump off the projector train and settle for a small but infinite contrast OLED.


Filters, gray screens, light source dimming, irises, all darken the entire image, the bright parts as well as the dark. And the technology that can get truly dark is either unaffordable or too small. I think I'm getting near the end of trying to get the darkest out of the 5050UB. Got a few things to try yet, and perhaps someone has some answers to my question earlier today - something I'm not yet aware of. If so then I should be able to make it bit better, and if not then I guess I'm already there. At any rate, the black is quite good and I'm not complaining.


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## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> Have been thinking about that for a long time but keep changing my mind every now and then since everyone has a totally different opinion 😬


A neutral grey screen can for sure help in a room that isn't well treated. Even a room that is semi dark could benefit from a grey screen. Grey screens disproportionally reduce splashback lighting vs the light from the projector, thus increasing intrascene contrast. It won't do anything for super dark stuff...at all. No screen will, really. Critics of a grey screen say they are dim, and lifeless but this is usually because of two reasons, 1) the ones they saw didn't have adequate light output from the projector, or 2) they compared it to a white screen side by side. For 1, most screens are terribly overrated on gain specs. A good grey screen is 0.7 yet you'll see cheap grey screens rated at 0.9 or even 1.0...yeah no. This gives people the impression that they can just use that screen like a normal white screen, yet they lose 30% of their light! For 2, direct comparing side by side is never fair to the grey screen. As I just said, they lose 30% of their light so you've got to compensate by having a brighter projector (or using a brighter mode). No duh a white screen looks punchier and vibrate in this setting....it is! The only real way to do a direct comparison like this is with two projectors. 

I'm a fan of grey screens and honestly think they should be used more since most people don't have black pits. But people need to know how to evaluate a grey screen and be prepared for the hit in brightness and have a plan for it.


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## Biggydeen

PixelPusher15 said:


> I'm a fan of grey screens and honestly think they should be used more since most people don't have black pits. But people need to know how to evaluate a grey screen and be prepared for the hit in brightness and have a plan for it.


I actually have a grey "screen" in a complete dark pit. Or I must say a grey wall. I used black widow paint. It has alluminum particles in it to reflect light. No idea what the gain is though. Works really well. Always ran Digital Cinema in ECO mode on my 6050UB (110' screen) and never thought I had low light output. But complete black scenes look very grey and gets me out of the movie everytime. I just found out about the iris setting but reducing the iris makes the screen to dark in brigher scenes. I had to set the lamp to medium but there is no way I can run iris -18. That is way to dark in both black and brighter scenes. But Iris at -8, gamma at -1 and lamp on medium gave me very dark blacks already. But I also found that the brighter scenes are to dark overall. Now trying iris -4 and maybe bumping up the gamma to 0.


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## hms17B

Biggydeen said:


> I actually have a grey "screen" in a complete dark pit. Or I must say a grey wall. I used black widow paint. It has alluminum particles in it to reflect light. No idea what the gain is though. Works really well. Always ran Digital Cinema in ECO mode on my 6050UB (110' screen) and never thought I had low light output. But complete black scenes look very grey and gets me out of the movie everytime. I just found out about the iris setting but reducing the iris makes the screen to dark in brigher scenes. I had to set the lamp to medium but there is no way I can run iris -18. That is way to dark in both black and brighter scenes. But Iris at -8, gamma at -1 and lamp on medium gave me very dark blacks already. But I also found that the brighter scenes are to dark overall. Now trying iris -4 and maybe bumping up the gamma to 0.


You seem to be finding what I am - in general. If you do something to get the blacks the darkest then the rest is darker than desired. And if you get the brights brighter then the blacks get raised a bit too much. I hope I'm zeroing in on something that won't overly sacrifice either too much and will finally be able to settle on whatever that is.


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## NxNW

PixelPusher15 said:


> Plus, SDR is mastered at 100 nits anyway.


.. on an emissive display .. in a room with 5% gray ambient light surround ..

But generally I agree here. I've actually become quite comfortable with 100 nits even in a bat cave. 

I think the THX guidelines might be misguided here. Just because movie theaters historically could get to only 14 FtL (47 nits) for practical reasons doesn't mean home theater people with shorter throws and smaller screens should be forced to live with it. _As long as contrast ratio is preserved_, you may as well run your display as high as eye fatigue allows.


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## biglen

Biggydeen said:


> I actually have a grey "screen" in a complete dark pit. Or I must say a grey wall. I used black widow paint. It has alluminum particles in it to reflect light. No idea what the gain is though. Works really well. Always ran Digital Cinema in ECO mode on my 6050UB (110' screen) and never thought I had low light output. But complete black scenes look very grey and gets me out of the movie everytime. I just found out about the iris setting but reducing the iris makes the screen to dark in brigher scenes. I had to set the lamp to medium but there is no way I can run iris -18. That is way to dark in both black and brighter scenes. But Iris at -8, gamma at -1 and lamp on medium gave me very dark blacks already. But I also found that the brighter scenes are to dark overall. Now trying iris -4 and maybe bumping up the gamma to 0.


I have a painted screen also, and my blacks are amazing on the 5050. I used a screen paint called Black Flame Interstellar. It's a very light gray color. That's the final coat. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> You seem to be finding what I am - in general. If you do something to get the blacks the darkest then the rest is darker than desired. And if you get the brights brighter then the blacks get raised a bit too much. I hope I'm zeroing in on something that won't overly sacrifice either too much and will finally be able to settle on whatever that is.


You're fighting the limits of the display. It's just the nature of the beast. To get the absolute brightest and most contrasty image on the 5050/6050 you have to set the lamp to high and then the manual iris to -18. You should get over 6000:1 contrast, maybe 7000 if you have a long throw. It still might be a bit dim though. 

The only other thing that can be done is to improve perceived contrast by calibration or better tone mapping. Creating a custom gamma curve where as you get closer to black you drop the gamma (raise it in the gamma editor) as it gets closer to black. Something like this:









This will improve shadow detail and elevate it away from black improving perceived contrast on dark scenes (this works for SDR). One note is that on my 5050 is that the default custom gamma measured around 2.1 so I had to drop a lot of the points. So if I were to implement this technique then I may try something like this (don't touch the boundary points as they will impact the black floor and peak white):









This isn't some crazy technique. It's similar to a BT1886 gamma which is really for OLEDs









For HDR, when I calibrated it with HCFR my graph ended up looking like this with contrast set to 60:









I don't have the exact values but this made a huge difference in image depth and I reached for the HDR slider less.


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## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> You're fighting the limits of the display. It's just the nature of the beast. To get the absolute brightest and most contrasty image on the 5050/6050 you have to set the lamp to high and then the manual iris to -18. You should get over 6000:1 contrast, maybe 7000 if you have a long throw. It still might be a bit dim though.
> 
> The only other thing that can be done is to improve perceived contrast by calibration or better tone mapping. Creating a custom gamma curve where as you get closer to black you drop the gamma (raise it in the gamma editor) as it gets closer to black. Something like this:
> View attachment 3327638
> 
> 
> This will improve shadow detail and elevate it away from black improving perceived contrast on dark scenes (this works for SDR). One note is that on my 5050 is that the default custom gamma measured around 2.1 so I had to drop a lot of the points. So if I were to implement this technique then I may try something like this (don't touch the boundary points as they will impact the black floor and peak white):
> View attachment 3327640
> 
> 
> This isn't some crazy technique. It's similar to a BT1886 gamma which is really for OLEDs
> View attachment 3327643
> 
> 
> For HDR, when I calibrated it with HCFR my graph ended up looking like this with contrast set to 60:
> View attachment 3327646
> 
> 
> I don't have the exact values but this made a huge difference in image depth and I reached for the HDR slider less.


I’ve seen many people raising their contrast levels to 60. Doesn’t that make blacks seem lighter and grayish?


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## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> I’ve seen many people raising their contrast levels to 60. Doesn’t that make blacks seem lighter and grayish?


Contrast shouldn't impact blacks at all. Only do it for HDR. It basically controls the knee point on the 5050's internal tone map. Going above 60 isn't going to work though, it will move it too high and you'll flatten out the knee slope/clip


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## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> You're fighting the limits of the display. It's just the nature of the beast. To get the absolute brightest and most contrasty image on the 5050/6050 you have to set the lamp to high and then the manual iris to -18. You should get over 6000:1 contrast, maybe 7000 if you have a long throw. It still might be a bit dim though.
> 
> The only other thing that can be done is to improve perceived contrast by calibration or better tone mapping. Creating a custom gamma curve where as you get closer to black you drop the gamma (raise it in the gamma editor) as it gets closer to black. Something like this:
> View attachment 3327638
> 
> 
> This will improve shadow detail and elevate it away from black improving perceived contrast on dark scenes (this works for SDR). One note is that on my 5050 is that the default custom gamma measured around 2.1 so I had to drop a lot of the points. So if I were to implement this technique then I may try something like this (don't touch the boundary points as they will impact the black floor and peak white):
> View attachment 3327640
> 
> 
> This isn't some crazy technique. It's similar to a BT1886 gamma which is really for OLEDs
> View attachment 3327643
> 
> 
> For HDR, when I calibrated it with HCFR my graph ended up looking like this with contrast set to 60:
> View attachment 3327646
> 
> 
> I don't have the exact values but this made a huge difference in image depth and I reached for the HDR slider less.


Yes, but the beast can be tamed some. Just going by eyeball I'm finding similar to what you're showing here. And it's looking a lot better than before. I'll try further refining what I have according to your ideas here. But I won't be using high lamp as that just makes too much noise - it'd drive me crazy using it on high.


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## Biggydeen

biglen said:


> I have a painted screen also, and my blacks are amazing on the 5050. I used a screen paint called Black Flame Interstellar. It's a very light gray color. That's the final coat.


Did you made that paint yourself or can you order it somewhere? Can't find much info about it. Might want to try that out!


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## biglen

Biggydeen said:


> Did you made that paint yourself or can you order it somewhere? Can't find much info about it. Might want to try that out!


I sent you a message. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> You're fighting the limits of the display. It's just the nature of the beast. To get the absolute brightest and most contrasty image on the 5050/6050 you have to set the lamp to high and then the manual iris to -18. You should get over 6000:1 contrast, maybe 7000 if you have a long throw. It still might be a bit dim though.
> 
> The only other thing that can be done is to improve perceived contrast by calibration or better tone mapping. Creating a custom gamma curve where as you get closer to black you drop the gamma (raise it in the gamma editor) as it gets closer to black. Something like this:
> View attachment 3327638
> 
> 
> This will improve shadow detail and elevate it away from black improving perceived contrast on dark scenes (this works for SDR). One note is that on my 5050 is that the default custom gamma measured around 2.1 so I had to drop a lot of the points. So if I were to implement this technique then I may try something like this (don't touch the boundary points as they will impact the black floor and peak white):
> View attachment 3327640
> 
> 
> This isn't some crazy technique. It's similar to a BT1886 gamma which is really for OLEDs
> View attachment 3327643
> 
> 
> For HDR, when I calibrated it with HCFR my graph ended up looking like this with contrast set to 60:
> View attachment 3327646
> 
> 
> I don't have the exact values but this made a huge difference in image depth and I reached for the HDR slider less.


That's really interesting. I absolutely don't understand this gamma curve but I've tried some settings suggested by other people with surprising results. Sorry for the dumb questions but would you say that lowering the curve makes the image darker and raising the sliders make it lighter? And would you by any chance recall the settings you used? 😬


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## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> That's really interesting. I absolutely don't understand this gamma curve but I've tried some settings suggested by other people with surprising results. Sorry for the dumb questions but would you say that lowering the curve makes the image darker and raising the sliders make it lighter? And would you by any chance recall the settings you used? 😬


For your 5040, I'd for try a curve like I posted here:









Really though, the 5040 needs a different curve for differently mastered content. HDR is mastered at 1000, 2000, 4000, and 10000 nits. But anyway, onto your actual questions, lol

So a lower gamma is brighter, a higher one is typically dimmer. Here's a graph of your typical gamma curves. 








It came from this article, which is good. As you can see the higher gammas come out of black slower. Faster out of black = more shadow detail. But slower out of black = more "pop" with mixed content. 2.2 and 2.4 are very common. I think I like 2.3 but that's because I like to be different. So in the gamma editor on the Epson, raising a point will make that are of the image brighter, lowering will make it dimmer. But raising the points gives you a _lower gamma. _

I'll skip giving an explanation on HDR "gamma" cause its a bit more complicated and I don't have the time lol


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## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> For your 5040, I'd for try a curve like I posted here:
> View attachment 3327983
> 
> 
> Really though, the 5040 needs a different curve for differently mastered content. HDR is mastered at 1000, 2000, 4000, and 10000 nits. But anyway, onto your actual questions, lol
> 
> So a lower gamma is brighter, a higher one is typically dimmer. Here's a graph of your typical gamma curves.
> View attachment 3327986
> 
> It came from this article, which is good. As you can see the higher gammas come out of black slower. Faster out of black = more shadow detail. But slower out of black = more "pop" with mixed content. 2.2 and 2.4 are very common. I think I like 2.3 but that's because I like to be different. So in the gamma editor on the Epson, raising a point will make that are of the image brighter, lowering will make it dimmer. But raising the points gives you a _lower gamma. _
> 
> I'll skip giving an explanation on HDR "gamma" cause its a bit more complicated and I don't have the time lol


Yep, that's really complicated. But thanks for the explanation 😉


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## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> Yep, that's really complicated. But thanks for the explanation 😉


look at that article I linked. They have example photos that make it easy to understand


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## luisalbertokid

PixelPusher15 said:


> look at that article I linked. They have example photos that make it easy to understand


Bookmarked the BenQ article and will read it whenever I find the courage 😬. I have a BenQ HT3550 by the way and although it comes from factory with a default 2.2 gamma I've always preferred 2.4 for the "perception" of darker blacks (it dims the overall image though). There's also a proprietary BenQ gamma setting that gives more detail in dark areas of the image but at the end of the day I really prefer deeper blacks even at the expense of detail and some brightness. This article here is nice too: Epson Bright HDR for UB6050 / UB5050 / TW9400 - actually there are lots of interesting stuff about the Epson.


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## MFGH

I get a second hand 5050ub (9300w europe) one of these days, it will be paired up with a DreamScreen V4 acoustic screen. It has 2250 hours on the bulb and i plan to get a new original bulb, will there (probably) be a noticeable difference in the brightness with a new bulb vs the old one? 
I am very excited to see how my screen and the projector fit together. 😊


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## hms17B

Well, I tried some of the ideas in that Ultimate Dynamic Calibration. Couldn't do everything since that has measured-value settings and I'm not using calibration equipment, but I wasn't particularly impressed with Dynamic. One can remove that ghastly greenish pallor with upper-range grayscale adjustments, but as for black level, Dynamic doesn't allow manual iris in Medium lamp, and while Dynamic uses more dynamic iris, that's mostly noticeable only on full black frames, but not so much on anything else. I'll try it a bit more as I watch a few things, but will likely drop Dynamic and go back to Natural or Digital Cinema.


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## PixelPusher15

There was some talk in a JVC modding thread about CPL filters potentially increasing contrast. A little debate on whether that is just inside the optical block or outside in front of the lens. Well, I decided to order some and test them in front of the lens on my Epson and JVC. I'm expecting nothing other than a slightly dimmer image but we shall see! They were delivered today and I'll probably test this weekend.


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## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> There was some talk in a JVC modding thread about CPL filters potentially increasing contrast. A little debate on whether that is just inside the optical block or outside in front of the lens. Well, I decided to order some and test them in front of the lens on my Epson and JVC. I'm expecting nothing other than a slightly dimmer image but we shall see! They were delivered today and I'll probably test this weekend.


I just remembered I have one of those I used back when I had some interest in photography. Think I'll try it too, but just looking through it, there'll be dimming, and not sure I want the brights to be dimmed at all. Plus it's the size of a camera lens (screw it onto the front of the lens body) so it would have to mount fairly close to the front of the projector lens.


----------



## NxNW

PixelPusher15 said:


> There was some talk in a JVC modding thread about CPL filters potentially increasing contrast. A little debate on whether that is just inside the optical block or outside in front of the lens. Well, I decided to order some and test them in front of the lens on my Epson and JVC. I'm expecting nothing other than a slightly dimmer image but we shall see! They were delivered today and I'll probably test this weekend.


The idea of a filter in front of the lens of a 5050 is not new:
@Alaric has talked about his experience with this product in Dynamic mode:
https://www-heimkinoraum-de.transla..._sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp(That link is to a Google-translated version; this is the link to the German-language original page)

I generally l need all the light I can get if I want to use manual iris (which improves optical sharpness as well as contrast) so I haven't really considered filters for my own use. I'll be curious to hear new information on the topic.


----------



## MFGH

Received my second hand 5050ub yesterday and got it installed today. I am projecting around 133 inches in 2.35:1 and the picture is pretty good. The lamp has gone 2280 hours, so i am going to put in a new one soon. This projector is huge, i put it next to a um18 and that looked small beside this projector. 
I had a Optoma HD141X previously so this should be a solid jump up the ladder on the picture-side.


----------



## sebastian.m

Hi guys, I'm starting to think I'm going crazy, so I hope one of you can enlighten me. I have had the 9400 (ie. 6050) for just over 2 years and several months ago I noticed slightly darker diagonal lines, kind of like hatching, being visible when there is movement over a relatively uniform, bright surface. I contacted the Epson support and they eventually told me to send the projector in. However, the repair guys couldn't find anything, and when they sent me a rental projector it produced the same hatching. I made sure that it couldn't be other part of my setup, except for the screen. But that hasn't changed since I had the projector. The conclusion was that it has always been there and I just never noticed it before. But it seems so apparent to me now that I can't imagine not having noticed it for so long. Has anybody else noticed this?


----------



## ShadowBoy

sebastian.m said:


> Hi guys, I'm starting to think I'm going crazy, so I hope one of you can enlighten me. I have had the 9400 (ie. 6050) for just over 2 years and several months ago I noticed slightly darker diagonal lines, kind of like hatching, being visible when there is movement over a relatively uniform, bright surface. I contacted the Epson support and they eventually told me to send the projector in. However, the repair guys couldn't find anything, and when they sent me a rental projector it produced the same hatching. I made sure that it couldn't be other part of my setup, except for the screen. But that hasn't changed since I had the projector. The conclusion was that it has always been there and I just never noticed it before. But it seems so apparent to me now that I can't imagine not having noticed it for so long. Has anybody else noticed this?


Is the diagonal hatching there when you don't have an external input, for example when you display the focus pattern? Try to eliminate any possibility that it is a problem with your HDMI cables, layer, or receiver.
I recently had trouble with my JVC N7 projector being color shifted on the right side of the screen. Tech support was trying to tell me that it was an HDMI issue. By showing that the green shift was there within the menu of the projector without a cable even being plugged in, I confirmed the issue was not an external problem.
If you can't replicate this with the menu because movement is needed, try to hook up some equipment other than yours and see if the issue still occurs.
Always eliminate the obvious first.
Can you try projecting onto a white sheet or wall to confirm it is not somehow the screen?
Good luck.


----------



## sebastian.m

ShadowBoy said:


> Is the diagonal hatching there when you don't have an external input, for example when you display the focus pattern? Try to eliminate any possibility that it is a problem with your HDMI cables, layer, or receiver.
> I recently had trouble with my JVC N7 projector being color shifted on the right side of the screen. Tech support was trying to tell me that it was an HDMI issue. By showing that the green shift was there within the menu of the projector without a cable even being plugged in, I confirmed the issue was not an external problem.
> If you can't replicate this with the menu because movement is needed, try to hook up some equipment other than yours and see if the issue still occurs.
> Always eliminate the obvious first.
> Can you try projecting onto a white sheet or wall to confirm it is not somehow the screen?
> Good luck.


There is a scene in Contagion that consistently has the hatching (Kate Winslet walking along the yellowish hall at 14:30). I tried using another HDMI cable, using a Bluray as source upscaled to 4k by the player, full hd with and without 4k enhancement in the projector turned on, hooking up the Bluray player directly to the projector instead of the AV receiver, playing the movie from a Prime Video Stick 4k, putting the stick directly into the projector, ECO lamp, full lamp, different color modes, tried turning off image enhancements, and projecting onto a sheet instead of my screen. I also tried some of these things with the rental projector. The hatching is visible every time.

If it weren't so hard for me to believe that I just didn't notice this for 2 years I'd be ready to believe it's just an artefact of how the projector works.

It's very hard to get a picture because it only happens when the image is moving and is sometimes still not captured. Above Matt Damon's head here is kind of what it looks like.


----------



## fredworld

sebastian.m said:


> There is a scene in Contagion that consistently has the hatching (Kate Winslet walking along the yellowish hall at 14:30). I tried using another HDMI cable, using a Bluray as source upscaled to 4k by the player, full hd with and without 4k enhancement in the projector turned on, hooking up the Bluray player directly to the projector instead of the AV receiver, playing the movie from a Prime Video Stick 4k, putting the stick directly into the projector, ECO lamp, full lamp, different color modes, tried turning off image enhancements, and projecting onto a sheet instead of my screen. I also tried some of these things with the rental projector. The hatching is visible every time.
> 
> If it weren't so hard for me to believe that I just didn't notice this for 2 years I'd be ready to believe it's just an artefact of how the projector works.
> 
> It's very hard to get a picture because it only happens when the image is moving and is sometimes still not captured. Above Matt Damon's head here is kind of what it looks like.


Based on your Matt Damon example, it looks like motion blurring to me, aka judder. Very common in LCD based PJs, seen in horizontal movement and pans. Very often evident when a road sign is driven passed making the letters difficult or impossible to read. If you aren't adverse to the "soap opera effect" (SOE) turn on Frame Interpolation (FI). To do so, set your AVR to output a 1080p/24hz signal and experiment with the High/Med/Low levels. Personally, I've learned to accept the occasional judder. That and the proclivity for dust blobs are my only criticisms of this projector.


----------



## sebastian.m

fredworld said:


> Based on your Matt Damon example, it looks like motion blurring to me, aka judder. Very common in LCD based PJs, seen in horizontal movement and pans. Very often evident when a road sign is driven passed making the letters difficult or impossible to read. If you aren't adverse to the "soap opera effect" (SOE) turn on Frame Interpolation (FI). To do so, set your AVR to output a 1080p/24hz signal and experiment with the High/Med/Low levels. Personally, I've learned to accept the occasional judder. That and the proclivity for dust blobs are my only criticisms of this projector.


With frame interpolation it can still be seen, although definitely not as clearly, so I guess that may be it. FI is not an option for me though.

It seems I really did manage not to see it for a long time, so I'll just try to train myself not to notice it again.

Thanks!


----------



## fredworld

sebastian.m said:


> With frame interpolation it can still be seen, although definitely not as clearly, so I guess that may be it. FI is not an option for me though.
> 
> It seems I really did manage not to see it for a long time, so I'll just try to train myself not to notice it again.
> 
> Thanks!


I've found that judder is more source dependent than anything else. 
If you really want to obsess on something, display full field black and slowly defocus to uncover the dust blobs, if any are large enough to be visible you'll see them. 🕵
Then next time a scene fads to black, or on credit scrolls, try not seeing the blobs. Just something else to train your eyes not to do. 👁


----------



## Nikunj

fredworld said:


> I have a half dozen pairs of these that I got from another site on a clearance sale: Samsung SSG4100GB for sale online | eBay
> Seems Samsung has discontinued them. My guests remark how comfortable they are and how impresssive the 3D is.
> This is the Samsung site page: 3D Glasses SSG-4100GB | SSG-4100GB/ZD | Samsung Hong Kong


Hello, between 4100Gb and 5100GB which one perform better for epson5050UB. Please advise.


----------



## fredworld

Nikunj said:


> Hello, between 4100Gb and 5100GB which one perform better for epson5050UB. Please advise.


Sorry, I never tried the 5100GB. Perhaps others can comment.


----------



## ShadowBoy

sebastian.m said:


> With frame interpolation it can still be seen, although definitely not as clearly, so I guess that may be it. FI is not an option for me though.
> 
> It seems I really did manage not to see it for a long time, so I'll just try to train myself not to notice it again.
> 
> Thanks!


If you can, try to watch a 4K movie that has high frame rate like Gemini Man or Billy Lynn's Halftime Walk. See if judder hatching is less on those. If not, then maybe you just never noticed it before. Good luck untraining yourself NOT to see it. If successful you will be the first projector hobbyist to be able to unsee an image problem.


----------



## hms17B

NxNW said:


> The idea of a filter in front of the lens of a 5050 is not new:
> @Alaric has talked about his experience with this product in Dynamic mode:
> https://www-heimkinoraum-de.transla..._sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp(That link is to a Google-translated version; this is the link to the German-language original page)
> 
> I generally l need all the light I can get if I want to use manual iris (which improves optical sharpness as well as contrast) so I haven't really considered filters for my own use. I'll be curious to hear new information on the topic.


Having an old CPL (circular polarizer/linear) filter from bygone photography days, I tried it in front of the projector lens (there's no way I'd open up the case to try to insert it anywhere inside). It has a very pronounced effect. Namely it cuts the light when rotated. At one position of rotation it cuts very little, but still some since the filter isn't completely clear. At another, it darkens the image to the point of extreme dimness. And at points between the two, it cuts the light in varying degrees.

I wouldn't say it does much for contrast, though, since it just seems to dim the whole image. Making dark darker doesn't help a lot if you also make bright darker. I'm using the iris (both manual and dynamic) and this CPL just adds to that. I suppose that without the iris, a CPL might have a somewhat similar effect in cutting light, but if nothing more than that, then why bother, why not just use the iris.

I also notice a shift in color as I rotate the filter, which means that after finding a position of rotation of the filter one likes, one might need to re-adjust color. If the colors don't all polarize the same in the projector's light path then such a filter would not alter them the same and could throw color off. Or perhaps this filter I have is not of premium quality - I've long forgotten where I got it or what it cost.

At any rate, I'm not seeing any reason to use one permanently, but am still open to anyone's further exploration and results.


----------



## hms17B

I've been experimenting with Dynamic picture mode and am about to drop it as I don't see that much benefit. It does get really black on fades to black, but once there's a bit of light in the image the iris opens up about as much as it does in Normal or Digital Cinema. Plus the fact that coming out of that extreme iris closure causes a bit of delay in opening back up, I'm not sure it's worth it. I noticed one odd thing on a star field pattern with dim stars - the iris remained closed down a little too much in that it cut off half the image until the image changed. Maybe it's just best to keep the iris from going all the way shut. I don't know - wish I did, maybe someone else does.


----------



## hms17B

And another, concerning the manual iris. I can't use it below -18 in Dynamic as it loses all definition between levels of white. But that doesn't appear to be the case in other picture modes. I've seen in other posts that -18 seems to be as low as anyone is using it. Has anyone found problems below -18 in non-Dynamic modes that maybe I haven't yet noticed?


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> And another, concerning the manual iris. I can't use it below -18 in Dynamic as it loses all definition between levels of white. But that doesn't appear to be the case in other picture modes. I've seen in other posts that -18 seems to be as low as anyone is using it. Has anyone found problems below -18 in non-Dynamic modes that maybe I haven't yet noticed?


Below -18 goes crazy in Dynamic/Eco. I actually measured _native_ contrast of 12,000:1 with the iris fully closed but only in dynamic. Crazy number nonetheless. I haven’t tried to use anything below -15 in any mode though so I can’t really help with your question.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Below -18 goes crazy in Dynamic/Eco. I actually measured _native_ contrast of 12,000:1 with the iris fully closed but only in dynamic. Crazy number nonetheless. I haven’t tried to use anything below -15 in any mode though so I can’t really help with your question.


Dynamic is kind of weird. I watched some SDR last night in Natural with manual iris at -19 and the blacks were quite convincing with the rest also looking good. Will watch some HDR next and see what it looks like. I am liking the iris down, even at the expense of a bit of overall darkening. It's those dark scenes that just aren't dark that get to me - more so than bright scenes not being fully bright.


----------



## tw9400user

Hi Guys, hope all of you doing well! I want get maximum from my TW9400. I heard about some "hardware tweaks" such as Mad VR HDR Dynamic Tone mapping or HDFury Dolby Vision unlock.. I know that those things completely different. But which of this can give me a great upgrade to get much more in image quality. Apple TV 4K (Infuse) + HD Fury LLDV for HDR/DV content or HCPC with Mad VR ??


----------



## jaredmwright

tw9400user said:


> Hi Guys, hope all of you doing well! I want get maximum from my TW9400. I heard about some "hardware tweaks" such as Mad VR HDR Dynamic Tone mapping or HDFury Dolby Vision unlock.. I know that those things completely different. But which of this can give me a great upgrade to get much more in image quality. Apple TV 4K (Infuse) + HD Fury LLDV for HDR/DV content or HCPC with Mad VR ??


MadVR with Video Processor and HD Fury for Dolby Vision is what I use and highly recommended. 

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## HTX^2steve

Anyone get their Epson Projector Safety Bulletin in the mail?


----------



## Aracorn

HTX^2steve said:


> Anyone get their Epson Projector Safety Bulletin in the mail?


What does it say?


----------



## HTX^2steve

Aracorn said:


> What does it say?


Weird....that no one else got this in the mail. I guess I am the only one who registered their projector? Anyhu, it states Epson wants to bring to customers attention that <even no reported cases> when mounting projectors from the ceiling to use a supplied Epson safety cable to prevent it crashing down on you...nothing big other than that...now back to watching movies!


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

HTX^2steve said:


> Weird....that no one else got this in the mail. I guess I am the only one who registered their projector? Anyhu, it states Epson wants to bring to customers attention that <even no reported cases> when mounting projectors from the ceiling to use a supplied Epson safety cable to prevent it crashing down on you...nothing big other than that...now back to watching movies!


Hmm, maybe the small dimension screws they use will break over time? Or in America some dumbass has mounted it wrong, got it to fall on him,and sued Epson, so to keep them from being sued again they made this mail?


----------



## fredworld

HTX^2steve said:


> Anyone get their Epson Projector Safety Bulletin in the mail?





Aracorn said:


> What does it say?





HTX^2steve said:


> Weird....that no one else got this in the mail. I guess I am the only one who registered their projector? Anyhu, it states Epson wants to bring to customers attention that <even no reported cases> when mounting projectors from the ceiling to use a supplied Epson safety cable to prevent it crashing down on you...nothing big other than that...now back to watching movies!


That *Important Safety Information* has been on the Epson website for quite some time. I think I first saw it when looking for a new lamp. It's information and an offer for a safety wire for certain environment installations. I haven't gotten the bulletin and the information isn't part of the owner's manual that I printed out over three years ago when I registered my projector.


----------



## sillyputty1967

H all, 

Just a few days ago I started noticing two horizontal pink/magenta bands, rather subtle, along the extreme top and bottom of the screen. They look like the same dimension as 16:9 letterbox bands. I have an Epson Home Cinema 5050UB that's just short of a year old. My projector is mounted upside down. All operational lights are normal. Trying to narrow down the problem.

J


----------



## fredworld

sillyputty1967 said:


> H all,
> 
> Just a few days ago I started noticing two horizontal pink/magenta bands, rather subtle, along the extreme top and bottom of the screen. They look like the same dimension as 16:9 letterbox bands. I have an Epson Home Cinema 5050UB that's just short of a year old. My projector is mounted upside down. All operational lights are normal. Trying to narrow down the problem.
> 
> J
> View attachment 3331436
> View attachment 3331437
> View attachment 3331438


To rule out if it's a PJ issue or other equipment: 
1) try different source devices, and
2) certainly try a different HDMI cable.
3) If you're feeding the PJ from an AVR/AVP then bypass the AVR and connect directly to the PJ. 
4) disconnect all equipment from the PJ and just have the PJ display the Epson logo/ blank screen to see if the bands are present with nothing connected.


----------



## Cacitems4sale

I just turned on my 6050 projector on and the screen had some funky colors with pixelated text (see photos)Has anyone experienced this before? I shut it off and turned it back on, in which it seemed to fix the issue.


----------



## fredworld

Cacitems4sale said:


> I just turned on my 6050 projector on and the screen had some funky colors with pixelated text (see photos)Has anyone experienced this before? I shut it off and turned it back on, in which it seemed to fix the issue.
> View attachment 3331644
> 
> View attachment 3331645


That's happened to me on occasion but always cleared up within a minute or two during warm up without a reboot. I think it might be related to AC fluctuations. Even tho' mine is on a dedicated 20A line shared only with source equipment it's still subject to the vagaries of the power company.
Might also be caused if your PJ power line is shared with other appliances in the house that are drawing current at the same time.
Or, if an AVR/AVP is in play it might be an anomaly of the HDMI handshake.


----------



## hms17B

sillyputty1967 said:


> H all,
> 
> Just a few days ago I started noticing two horizontal pink/magenta bands, rather subtle, along the extreme top and bottom of the screen. They look like the same dimension as 16:9 letterbox bands. I have an Epson Home Cinema 5050UB that's just short of a year old. My projector is mounted upside down. All operational lights are normal. Trying to narrow down the problem.
> 
> J
> View attachment 3331436
> View attachment 3331437
> View attachment 3331438


Haven't seen this exactly, but have seen other pink anomalies. Appears to be some HDMI glitch with the AVR. Switching inputs on either and then back fixes it. Have had pink and green colors where they shouldn't be several times, but only upon powering up - once fixed it does not happen again for the duration of that power on period.


----------



## hms17B

Cacitems4sale said:


> I just turned on my 6050 projector on and the screen had some funky colors with pixelated text (see photos)Has anyone experienced this before? I shut it off and turned it back on, in which it seemed to fix the issue.
> View attachment 3331644
> 
> View attachment 3331645


Same as you're seeing, but on 5050. Switching inputs and back fixed it. Powering off/on should also do it. Must be some HDMI glitch needing renegotiation. Has only happened once for me, and then only upon powering up, and once fixed, no more.


----------



## hms17B

HTX^2steve said:


> Weird....that no one else got this in the mail. I guess I am the only one who registered their projector? Anyhu, it states Epson wants to bring to customers attention that <even no reported cases> when mounting projectors from the ceiling to use a supplied Epson safety cable to prevent it crashing down on you...nothing big other than that...now back to watching movies!


A safety cable came with my 5050, which I use, but it has to screw into one of the mounting screw holes. I suppose that with no strain on the cable normally, that screw point wouldn't be able to fail like ones possibly could that affix a ceiling mount to the unit, where there would be strain. But the bulletin says that any problem would be in an environment with chemicals in the atmosphere (smoke, volatile whatever, etc), and that it's the plastic case that fails where the screws put strain on it. Wonder how Epson tested this? Maybe installed a Xylene hot tank in the room to see what would happen?


----------



## HTX^2steve

hms17B said:


> A safety cable came with my 5050, which I use, but it has to screw into one of the mounting screw holes. I suppose that with no strain on the cable normally, that screw point wouldn't be able to fail like ones possibly could that affix a ceiling mount to the unit, where there would be strain. But the bulletin says that any problem would be in an environment with chemicals in the atmosphere (smoke, volatile whatever, etc), and that it's the plastic case that fails where the screws put strain on it. Wonder how Epson tested this? Maybe installed a Xylene hot tank in the room to see what would happen?


Agree...when I called them, they couldn't tell me where to attach the safety cable to because there isn't a typical safety place to attach one. But he said due to the weight of our PJ he will send two of them...ugh.


----------



## hms17B

HTX^2steve said:


> Agree...when I called them, they couldn't tell me where to attach the safety cable to because there isn't a typical safety place to attach one. But he said due to the weight of our PJ he will send two of them...ugh.


The supplied cable plus attachment bracket plus attachment point isn't exactly robust - at least it doesn't look it. When using it, don't leave slack in the cable, so if it ever does drop, it won't build up much momentum before the cable stops it.


----------



## }Fear_Inoculum{

I bought my 5050UBe last July. I am having issues with the screen going black. I'm still getting sound through my speakers, but no picture. Since it started happening I've:

~ replaced my Firecube with a new one.
~ replaced my Yamaha RX-A2040 with a ToneWinnner AT-300 pre pro
~ replaced all of my HDMI cables with 4/8/10K HDMI cables
~ replaced the ToneWinner AT-300 with an Anthem AVM 70
~ replaced the 2nd Firecube with an NVidia Shield Pro 4K
~ switched from HDMI 1 port on the back of the 5050UBe to HDMI 2

Every time I've done something, it works for a limited amount of time with no problems, then the screen starts going black again. The bulb has less than 500 hours on it.

It happened last night again (for the first time since I switched to HDMI port 2). I powered everything off, then on again and it worked fine after that to watch about 1.5 hrs of shows. Also, the fan comes on very loudly and the left side of the PJ gets very warm/hot. 

Any thoughts on what it might be? Faulty HDMI board(s)? It's still under warranty until July 2023.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

}Fear_Inoculum{ said:


> I bought my 5050UBe last July. I am having issues with the screen going black. I'm still getting sound through my speakers, but no picture. Since it started happening I've:
> 
> ~ replaced my Firecube with a new one.
> ~ replaced my Yamaha RX-A2040 with a ToneWinnner AT-300 pre pro
> ~ replaced all of my HDMI cables with 4/8/10K HDMI cables
> ~ replaced the ToneWinner AT-300 with an Anthem AVM 70
> ~ replaced the 2nd Firecube with an NVidia Shield Pro 4K
> ~ switched from HDMI 1 port on the back of the 5050UBe to HDMI 2
> 
> Every time I've done something, it works for a limited amount of time with no problems, then the screen starts going black again. The bulb has less than 500 hours on it.
> 
> It happened last night again (for the first time since I switched to HDMI port 2). I powered everything off, then on again and it worked fine after that to watch about 1.5 hrs of shows. Also, the fan comes on very loudly and the left side of the PJ gets very warm/hot.
> 
> Any thoughts on what it might be? Faulty HDMI board(s)? It's still under warranty until July 2023.


I would try a new lamp. Sounds like it shuts off because of heat ot something. 
What is your ambient temperature in the room during use?


----------



## fredworld

}Fear_Inoculum{ said:


> I bought my 5050UBe last July. I am having issues with the screen going black. I'm still getting sound through my speakers, but no picture. Since it started happening I've:
> 
> ~ replaced my Firecube with a new one.
> ~ replaced my Yamaha RX-A2040 with a ToneWinnner AT-300 pre pro
> ~ replaced all of my HDMI cables with 4/8/10K HDMI cables
> ~ replaced the ToneWinner AT-300 with an Anthem AVM 70
> ~ replaced the 2nd Firecube with an NVidia Shield Pro 4K
> ~ switched from HDMI 1 port on the back of the 5050UBe to HDMI 2
> 
> Every time I've done something, it works for a limited amount of time with no problems, then the screen starts going black again. The bulb has less than 500 hours on it.
> 
> It happened last night again (for the first time since I switched to HDMI port 2). I powered everything off, then on again and it worked fine after that to watch about 1.5 hrs of shows. Also, the fan comes on very loudly and the left side of the PJ gets very warm/hot.
> 
> Any thoughts on what it might be? Faulty HDMI board(s)? It's still under warranty until July 2023.





Tsunamijhoe said:


> I would try a new lamp. Sounds like it shuts off because of heat ot something.
> What is your ambient temperature in the room during use?


Also, check Menu>Settings>Advanced >EDID and be sure it's set to EXPANDED.

AND are you on firmware 1.04? If not, upgrade via the Epson site.
EDIT: You've made a host of changes. Troubleshoot through the basics beginning with one source connected directly to the PJ, then add the prepro and another component as each one checks out to rule out setup irregularities.
I wouldn't be surprised if it's a HDMI handshake issue among your components somewhere. One or more of them might require a firmware update. I had such an issue with my old Oppo BDP-93. Once that was addressed, all was fine.
Finally, open a ticket with Epson support. They have always been very helpful with troubleshooting and warranty issues.


----------



## rekbones

}Fear_Inoculum{ said:


> I bought my 5050UBe last July. I am having issues with the screen going black. I'm still getting sound through my speakers, but no picture. Since it started happening I've:
> 
> ~ replaced my Firecube with a new one.
> ~ replaced my Yamaha RX-A2040 with a ToneWinnner AT-300 pre pro
> ~ replaced all of my HDMI cables with 4/8/10K HDMI cables
> ~ replaced the ToneWinner AT-300 with an Anthem AVM 70
> ~ replaced the 2nd Firecube with an NVidia Shield Pro 4K
> ~ switched from HDMI 1 port on the back of the 5050UBe to HDMI 2
> 
> Every time I've done something, it works for a limited amount of time with no problems, then the screen starts going black again. The bulb has less than 500 hours on it.
> 
> It happened last night again (for the first time since I switched to HDMI port 2). I powered everything off, then on again and it worked fine after that to watch about 1.5 hrs of shows. Also, the fan comes on very loudly and the left side of the PJ gets very warm/hot.
> 
> Any thoughts on what it might be? Faulty HDMI board(s)? It's still under warranty until July 2023.


Classic signs of HDMI handshake issue. Long HDMI cables are the #1 culprit but it can be virtually any component in the HDMI chain. I have heard countless times where people have tried 3 or 4 different HDMI cables before getting one to work especially if any are over 12'. Test with a cable under 12'/3m is the first action I would take.


----------



## }Fear_Inoculum{

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I would try a new lamp. Sounds like it shuts off because of heat ot something.
> What is your ambient temperature in the room during use?


It's not that warm when I first get in there, but it does heat up quickly (not a lot of airflow in my HT room). But none of my other components heat up like the projector does.


----------



## }Fear_Inoculum{

rekbones said:


> Classic signs of HDMI handshake issue. Long HDMI cables are the #1 culprit but it can be virtually any component in the HDMI chain. I have heard countless times where people have tried 3 or 4 different HDMI cables before getting one to work especially if any are over 12'. Test with a cable under 12'/3m is the first action I would take.


I think my longest cable is 6', nothing longer than that for sure.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

}Fear_Inoculum{ said:


> It's not that warm when I first get in there, but it does heat up quickly (not a lot of airflow in my HT room). But none of my other components heat up like the projector does.


You seem to have tried everything else except a lamp change, might be worth trying.
The projector fan going full speed at startup is pretty normal,but it should stop after like 30 seconds. If it goes full speed with anything but high lamp mode something is getting too hot it sounds like.


----------



## RVD26

Cacitems4sale said:


> I just turned on my 6050 projector on and the screen had some funky colors with pixelated text (see photos)Has anyone experienced this before? I shut it off and turned it back on, in which it seemed to fix the issue.
> View attachment 3331644
> 
> View attachment 3331645


I've had similar happen to me with my 5050 but usually only when watching DirecTV. Unplugging the HDMI cable from my AVR and plugging it back in usually fixes it right away.


----------



## rekbones

RVD26 said:


> I've had similar happen to me with my 5050 but usually only when watching DirecTV. Unplugging the HDMI cable from my AVR and plugging it back in usually fixes it right away.


You should never hot plug HDMI cables. A static pulse could blow the chip and also causes undue stress on the connector. Just turn off the AVR and turn it on should accomplish the same thing. Reestablishes a hand shake.


----------



## trailblazer

}Fear_Inoculum{ said:


> I bought my 5050UBe last July. I am having issues with the screen going black. I'm still getting sound through my speakers, but no picture. Since it started happening I've:
> 
> ~ replaced my Firecube with a new one.
> ~ replaced my Yamaha RX-A2040 with a ToneWinnner AT-300 pre pro
> ~ replaced all of my HDMI cables with 4/8/10K HDMI cables
> ~ replaced the ToneWinner AT-300 with an Anthem AVM 70
> ~ replaced the 2nd Firecube with an NVidia Shield Pro 4K
> ~ switched from HDMI 1 port on the back of the 5050UBe to HDMI 2
> 
> Every time I've done something, it works for a limited amount of time with no problems, then the screen starts going black again. The bulb has less than 500 hours on it.
> 
> It happened last night again (for the first time since I switched to HDMI port 2). I powered everything off, then on again and it worked fine after that to watch about 1.5 hrs of shows. Also, the fan comes on very loudly and the left side of the PJ gets very warm/hot.
> 
> Any thoughts on what it might be? Faulty HDMI board(s)? It's still under warranty until July 2023.


Have you tried changing the air filter on the projector. It can get plenty dirty over a period of time and may overheat the projector due to poor air flow through the vents.


----------



## hms17B

rekbones said:


> You should never hot plug HDMI cables. A static pulse could blow the chip and also causes undue stress on the connector. Just turn off the AVR and turn it on should accomplish the same thing. Reestablishes a hand shake.


Hot plug them in the dark. You may see sparks. So don't do it.


----------



## luisalbertokid

rekbones said:


> You should never hot plug HDMI cables. A static pulse could blow the chip and also causes undue stress on the connector. Just turn off the AVR and turn it on should accomplish the same thing. Reestablishes a hand shake.


Oh man I do it all the time! 😱 I look like one of those old telephone operators plugging and unplugging cables like crazy... 😳


----------



## }Fear_Inoculum{

trailblazer said:


> Have you tried changing the air filter on the projector. It can get plenty dirty over a period of time and may overheat the projector due to poor air flow through the vents.





fredworld said:


> Also, check Menu>Settings>Advanced >EDID and be sure it's set to EXPANDED.
> 
> AND are you on firmware 1.04? If not, upgrade via the Epson site.
> EDIT: You've made a host of changes. Troubleshoot through the basics beginning with one source connected directly to the PJ, then add the prepro and another component as each one checks out to rule out setup irregularities.
> I wouldn't be surprised if it's a HDMI handshake issue among your components somewhere. One or more of them might require a firmware update. I had such an issue with my old Oppo BDP-93. Once that was addressed, all was fine.
> Finally, open a ticket with Epson support. They have always been very helpful with troubleshooting and warranty issues.


@trailblazer 

I cleaned the filter tonight, hopefully that helps. If not, I'll look at replacing it. 

@fredworld 

I checked and it is set to "Expanded". I looked for a firmware update, and tried to find my current firmware version but had no success with either. I'll book a ticket with Epson support tomorrow. 

Thanks for the help so far everyone.


----------



## fredworld

}Fear_Inoculum{ said:


> @trailblazer
> 
> I cleaned the filter tonight, hopefully that helps. If not, I'll look at replacing it.
> 
> @fredworld
> 
> I checked and it is set to "Expanded". I looked for a firmware update, and tried to find my current firmware version but had no success with either. I'll book a ticket with Epson support tomorrow.
> 
> Thanks for the help so far everyone.


With your Epson Remote Control: Press "Info", then >Version. The last three digits are the FW versions. Main is HDMI input 1. Video 2 is HDMI 2. They should be 104 and 103, respectively. 
If you need to update go here: *https://epson.com/Support/Projectors/sh/s3*


----------



## sillyputty1967

fredworld said:


> To rule out if it's a PJ issue or other equipment:
> 1) try different source devices, and
> 2) certainly try a different HDMI cable.
> 3) If you're feeding the PJ from an AVR/AVP then bypass the AVR and connect directly to the PJ.
> 4) disconnect all equipment from the PJ and just have the PJ display the Epson logo/ blank screen to see if the bands are present with nothing connected.


1. Banding is more pronounced at the top of the screen. Certain scenes reveal banding more than others.
2. Both AppleTV and Blu-ray player show banding even after trying different HDMI cables on each unit. This step shows that it’s highly unlikely that both AppleTV and Blu-ray are sources of banding.
3. I bypassed AVR by connecting existing PJ HDMI cable directly to blu-ray and see banding.
4. Hooked blu-ray directly to PJ using different cable and see banding.
5. Do not see banding when viewing Epson blue set up screen.
6. Conclusion: have isolated problem to Epson.


----------



## fredworld

sillyputty1967 said:


> 1. Banding is more pronounced at the top of the screen. Certain scenes reveal banding more than others.
> 2. Both AppleTV and Blu-ray player show banding even after trying different HDMI cables on each unit. This step shows that it’s highly unlikely that both AppleTV and Blu-ray are sources of banding.
> 3. I bypassed AVR by connecting existing PJ HDMI cable directly to blu-ray and see banding.
> 4. Hooked blu-ray directly to PJ using different cable and see banding.
> 5. Do not see banding when viewing Epson blue set up screen.
> 6. Conclusion: have isolated problem to Epson.


I agree that it's most likely the PJ but with 5 above you're using the Blue Screen option and the banding is absent, presumably with nothing connected. If so, then change the display to Logo (or Black, I think). I think it's Menu>Extended>Display>Display Background. Be sure that no source equipment is connected (not just off). Then if the banding isn't present with no connected devices then it might not be the PJ or a bad HDMI port.

Have you tried HDMI 2 with the troubleshooting suggestions? If not, you should do so. Apologies, I should have suggested that in my prior post.

Regardless of the results, I think you should contact *Epson Support *with the results of your troubleshooting for their advice. It's likely that they'll have some additional troubleshooting or offer a replacement unit.


----------



## iron4044

I'm new to projectors and bought a new house with a 106" diag screen already on the wall, in a dedicated ht room. Room dimensions are 16'x16' with 10' ceiling, I know not ideal. 

I want to buy an Epson 5050ub but don't know where best placement would be? It looks like the previous projector was ceiling mounted about 12' from the screen. Is this placement OK for this model? I'm unsure of throw ratio, distance, etc.

For instance, will I get a better picture if the projector is ceiling mounted but dropped a few feet down from the top of ceiling? Could I do a rear wall mount and still get a great picture?


----------



## fredworld

iron4044 said:


> I'm new to projectors and bought a new house with a 106" diag screen already on the wall, in a dedicated ht room. Room dimensions are 16'x16' with 10' ceiling, I know not ideal.
> 
> I want to buy an Epson 5050ub but don't know where best placement would be? It looks like the previous projector was ceiling mounted about 12' from the screen. Is this placement OK for this model? I'm unsure of throw ratio, distance, etc.
> 
> For instance, will I get a better picture if the projector is ceiling mounted but dropped a few feet down from the top of ceiling? Could I do a rear wall mount and still get a great picture?


The *Epson Distance Calculator* might help. Or the *Throw Distance Calculator* from Projector Central. The 5050 has a pretty wide range of adjustments for lens shifting. I think 12' will be fine, even at 14-15' on the rear wall could work but check the calculators. My 5050's lens center is 11" from the ceiling. Come back with any questions.


----------



## Biggydeen

Was playing around with settings a bit (hooked my 6050UB up to my PC) and was wondering what the best refresh rate would be? I've ran 4k 60 hz @422 forever. Mainly because lower hz would cause extreme stuttering. But that seems to be gone now and I can run either 23,976 or 24hz. But I'm a bit confused what would be the best (watching movies only).


----------



## hms17B

luisalbertokid said:


> Oh man I do it all the time! 😱 I look like one of those old telephone operators plugging and unplugging cables like crazy... 😳


Step away from those cables, sir.


----------



## hms17B

iron4044 said:


> I'm new to projectors and bought a new house with a 106" diag screen already on the wall, in a dedicated ht room. Room dimensions are 16'x16' with 10' ceiling, I know not ideal.
> 
> I want to buy an Epson 5050ub but don't know where best placement would be? It looks like the previous projector was ceiling mounted about 12' from the screen. Is this placement OK for this model? I'm unsure of throw ratio, distance, etc.
> 
> For instance, will I get a better picture if the projector is ceiling mounted but dropped a few feet down from the top of ceiling? Could I do a rear wall mount and still get a great picture?


Use the calculators that fredworld mentioned. Also here's from the 5050UB manual.
For a 100" screen, throw distance can be from 118" (9.8') to 248" (20.6'). So you could mount it on ceiling at 12' back or on back wall about 15' back from the screen. Mine is 100" screen close to the lower distance limit but that does not seem to impair image quality that I can see, and your distances of 12' and 15' are not at either limit. I think you'll be quite pleased with a 5050 in that room.


----------



## iron4044

hms17B said:


> Use the calculators that fredworld mentioned. Also here's from the 5050UB manual.
> For a 100" screen, throw distance can be from 118" (9.8') to 248" (20.6'). So you could mount it on ceiling at 12' back or on back wall about 15' back from the screen. Mine is 100" screen close to the lower distance limit but that does not seem to impair image quality that I can see, and your distances of 12' and 15' are not at either limit. I think you'll be quite pleased with a 5050 in that room.


Thank you for this. I’m starting to understand this a bit more.


----------



## Musty Hustla

I ordered a lamp from _MyProjectorLamps. _It installed easily, including no trouble with the screws. The big BUT however is the projector emitted a noticeable burning smell while it in use. 

I let it cool down ~30minutes. There didn't seem to be anything obvious damage or protective films I left on. I put the original lamp in, and the smell was gone.

Has anyone else had a similar experience? Did the smell go away? Any risk of fire? I'm seriously considering returning it.


----------



## fredworld

Musty Hustla said:


> I ordered a lamp from _MyProjectorLamps. _It installed easily, including no trouble with the screws. The big BUT however is the projector emitted a noticeable burning smell while it in use.
> 
> I let it cool down ~30minutes. There didn't seem to be anything obvious damage or protective films I left on. I put the original lamp in, and the smell was gone.
> 
> Has anyone else had a similar experience? Did the smell go away? Any risk of fire? I'm seriously considering returning it.


I'd return it.
My speculation is it could be more than simply a new product temporarily outgassing since you described it as a "burning smell." Perhaps the lamp's outer housing's temperature tolerance is out of spec and is overheating.
Your experience is another reason why new lamps should be tested as promptly as possible while still within the warranty period.


----------



## citsur86

Will the 5050UB do PIP on the two inputs? The remote has no PiP button but I was wondering if it’s possible.


----------



## DavidK442

Musty Hustla said:


> I ordered a lamp from _MyProjectorLamps. _It installed easily, including no trouble with the screws. The big BUT however is the projector emitted a noticeable burning smell while it in use.
> 
> I let it cool down ~30minutes. There didn't seem to be anything obvious damage or protective films I left on. I put the original lamp in, and the smell was gone.
> 
> Has anyone else had a similar experience? Did the smell go away? Any risk of fire? I'm seriously considering returning it.


Any time I have installed a new lamp it gives off a very noticeable hot plastic smell. If this is your first lamp change I would say it is normal.


----------



## E2K

luisalbertokid said:


> Oh man I do it all the time! 😱 I look like one of those old telephone operators plugging and unplugging cables like crazy... 😳


Is it this one? No this one?? Was it the first one? No it must be this one? Omg the playstation was not even turned on! Let me try that again.. no still the blu ray player”


----------



## Biggydeen

I just found some weird thing that I can't explain. Somehow my menu buttons on my 6050UB are way more clear/crisp when turning on the test pattern. 

Showing a menu button (pressing lens on the remote) when the test pattern is off (showing windows background):










When I press the same button when using the test pattern (press "pattern" on remote):










The last one is way more crisp. I can easily see each pixel while using the same button without the test pattern all pixels are almost blurred together. And this has nothing to do with the focus of my camera, there is an insane difference in the way the pixels are displayed.

I changed the resolution from 4k to 1080p but that makes no difference. Is there are setting that could be causing this? The projector shifts to another "type" when putting on the test pattern (screen becomes black for a few seconds and the PJ makes some noise). Same thing when you change color mode from natural to digital cinema or any other mode.

So I'm thinking it uses different settings to display the test pattern. But this image is way more clear and crisp vs my current setup. I just hooked up the PJ to an 4k capable AVR (denon x3600) and AVR connected to windows (3080ti). Anyone have a clue why the picture is way less crisp.

My settings in Windows are 10bit ycbcr444 limited @3840*2160 @24hz. ycbcr420 @60hz makes no difference. Changing to 1080P also makes no difference. 

I always found the picture less sharp but this could be the reason why.. Anyone have an idea what this might be?


----------



## WynsWrld98

Biggydeen said:


> I just found some weird thing that I can't explain. Somehow my menu buttons on my 6050UB are way more clear/crisp when turning on the test pattern.
> 
> Showing a menu button (pressing lens on the remote) when the test pattern is off (showing windows background):
> 
> View attachment 3333596
> 
> 
> When I press the same button when using the test pattern (press "pattern" on remote):
> 
> View attachment 3333597
> 
> 
> The last one is way more crisp. I can easily see each pixel while using the same button without the test pattern all pixels are almost blurred together. And this has nothing to do with the focus of my camera, there is an insane difference in the way the pixels are displayed.
> 
> I changed the resolution from 4k to 1080p but that makes no difference. Is there are setting that could be causing this? The projector shifts to another "type" when putting on the test pattern (screen becomes black for a few seconds and the PJ makes some noise). Same thing when you change color mode from natural to digital cinema or any other mode.
> 
> So I'm thinking it uses different settings to display the test pattern. But this image is way more clear and crisp vs my current setup. I just hooked up the PJ to an 4k capable AVR (denon x3600) and AVR connected to windows (3080ti). Anyone have a clue why the picture is way less crisp.
> 
> My settings in Windows are 10bit ycbcr444 limited @3840*2160 @24hz. ycbcr420 @60hz makes no difference. Changing to 1080P also makes no difference.
> 
> I always found the picture less sharp but this could be the reason why.. Anyone have an idea what this might be?


Hit Info button on remote for each option verify resolution is what you expect


----------



## PixelPusher15

Biggydeen said:


> I just found some weird thing that I can't explain. Somehow my menu buttons on my 6050UB are way more clear/crisp when turning on the test pattern.
> 
> Showing a menu button (pressing lens on the remote) when the test pattern is off (showing windows background):
> 
> View attachment 3333596
> 
> 
> When I press the same button when using the test pattern (press "pattern" on remote):
> 
> View attachment 3333597
> 
> 
> The last one is way more crisp. I can easily see each pixel while using the same button without the test pattern all pixels are almost blurred together. And this has nothing to do with the focus of my camera, there is an insane difference in the way the pixels are displayed.
> 
> I changed the resolution from 4k to 1080p but that makes no difference. Is there are setting that could be causing this? The projector shifts to another "type" when putting on the test pattern (screen becomes black for a few seconds and the PJ makes some noise). Same thing when you change color mode from natural to digital cinema or any other mode.
> 
> So I'm thinking it uses different settings to display the test pattern. But this image is way more clear and crisp vs my current setup. I just hooked up the PJ to an 4k capable AVR (denon x3600) and AVR connected to windows (3080ti). Anyone have a clue why the picture is way less crisp.
> 
> My settings in Windows are 10bit ycbcr444 limited @3840*2160 @24hz. ycbcr420 @60hz makes no difference. Changing to 1080P also makes no difference.
> 
> I always found the picture less sharp but this could be the reason why.. Anyone have an idea what this might be?


The bottom image is for sure without pixel shifting. The top...I'm not sure. Are the pixels kinda angled? If they are that means pixel shifting is enabled which could give this appearance


----------



## Biggydeen

WynsWrld98 said:


> Hit Info button on remote for each option verify resolution is what you expect


Can't do that in test pattern mode. Normal mode everything is set correctly.



PixelPusher15 said:


> The bottom image is for sure without pixel shifting. The top...I'm not sure. Are the pixels kinda angled? If they are that means pixel shifting is enabled which could give this appearance


This seems to be it indeed. The one without 4k enchancement is much more clear and with 4k enchancement on it becomes much more blurry. Just watched some 4k/1080p content and that seems to be sharper when setting the PJ to 1080p with 4k enchancement off. In any regard switching back to 4k resolution or setting 4k enchancement on when running 1080p does not seem to improve the image in term of sharpness.

I normally use sharpening filters when playing movies with MPV player to get a more crisp picture but running 1080p and 4k enhan. off I need to turn it down because it's becoming to sharp... That makes me wonder what settings are best. I'll def. watching some more content in 1080p mode. That seems to be much sharper vs 4k or 4k enchancement for some reason. What are you all running?


----------



## markymiles

Seeing as the panels are 1080p if watching 1080p content then it does indeed look sharper if you don't have 4K enhancement on as you have shown. I would just leave it at that if that's what you prefer. Due to the low pixel fill 4K enhancement will overlap pixels a bit which reduces the gap and can give a smoother look. Some like this other's don't it's personal choice really. Obviously for 4K content you have to have it on.


----------



## rekbones

Biggydeen said:


> Can't do that in test pattern mode. Normal mode everything is set correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> This seems to be it indeed. The one without 4k enchancement is much more clear and with 4k enchancement on it becomes much more blurry. Just watched some 4k/1080p content and that seems to be sharper when setting the PJ to 1080p with 4k enchancement off. In any regard switching back to 4k resolution or setting 4k enchancement on when running 1080p does not seem to improve the image in term of sharpness.
> 
> I normally use sharpening filters when playing movies with MPV player to get a more crisp picture but running 1080p and 4k enhan. off I need to turn it down because it's becoming to sharp... That makes me wonder what settings are best. I'll def. watching some more content in 1080p mode. That seems to be much sharper vs 4k or 4k enchancement for some reason. What are you all running?


This is why "pixel peeping" rarely is the slightest bit beneficial in determining picture quality. The only thing that matters is what it looks like from a typical viewing distance.


----------



## Biggydeen

rekbones said:


> This is why "pixel peeping" rarely is the slightest bit beneficial in determining picture quality. The only thing that matters is what it looks like from a typical viewing distance.


That makes sense. Althought it must be said that the quality also depends on the panel allignment. This will differ between units. I can't get my unit sharp enough, the allignment seems off a bit. For example, the vertical middle line in my panel allignment pattern is a pretty clear one dot line but the horizontal one is somewhat blurred together and this is just using 1 color (green) so that's something I can't change. But that might also be caused by lens shift. I actually had multiple units of the UB6050 and sended two back because of this problem. But all units seemed to be this way so you need some luck.

As far as 1080p vs 4k source (resolution setting in my PC) goes, 1080p is definitely much more crisp versus 4k enchanced on either 1080p or 4k content (video resolution). So i'm definitely sticking with 1080p for now for both 1080p and 4k content).

Another thing I noticed is that when turning off my PC monitor when watching movies, the input for the projector changes. For example, I had my PC monitor set @1440p and my projector @1080p. I always turn my PC monitor off but that also disconnectes the monitor in Windows. For some reason this caused my projector to go back to 4k resolution but with an RGB signal... I think this due to the fact the projector becomes the first monitor and it just uses the first monitors settings (RGB and native resolution). But I never noticed this untill I looked at the input setting on the projector.

I was a bit unhappy about the black levels lately but changing the setting in Windows a few times seems to have reset the input signal somehow. Before my blacks were pretty grey and tried various settings (on PJ and in Windows) and checked the input information many times. But now black is really black again, I can hardly see the black bars in the top and bottom. Real dark content looks really black so something definitely changed. 

I'm now running 1080p, calibrated natural mode, medium lamp, iris -8 and gamma +1 (calibrated 0 to gamma 2.2), image preset 3. This looks really good and black levels are really deep black without causing an overal dark picture. (99% batcave and really dark grey screen (grey steel 1).


----------



## markymiles

Each to their own obviously but it is quite surprising to have Gamma at +1. You obviously like a brighter picture? Most people aim for gamma of about 2.3-2.4 for SDR content.


----------



## Biggydeen

markymiles said:


> Each to their own obviously but it is quite surprising to have Gamma at +1. You obviously like a brighter picture? Most people aim for gamma of about 2.3-2.4 for SDR content.


Well it's a compromise between a darker overall picture and black levels. Iris -8 produces a darker image which is off set by a higher gamma. Lowering gamma produces a way to dark picture on my screen. And that's prob. because my screen has a very low gain. I'm using a very dark grey screen (special paint) so I need more brightness to have the same output vs a higher gain screen I guess? So I guess someone with a higher gain screen can run gamma -1 or -2 which would have the same output as +1 gamma on my screen. My black levels are really black.


----------



## hms17B

Definitely. With manual iris you get much better black, but then the mid-dark range is a bit too dark. Raising the gamma curve makes it better.


----------



## luisalbertokid

My unit just turned off by itself with the fans at full power and the "lamp indicator" led flashing orange, as can be seen in the attached picture. I have more or less 800 hours on the bulb, so how come I am experiencing a bulb failure?
Thanks!


----------



## fredworld

luisalbertokid said:


> My unit just turned off by itself with the fans at full power and the "lamp indicator" led flashing orange, as can be seen in the attached picture. I have more or less 800 hours on the bulb, so how come I am experiencing a bulb failure?
> Thanks!


According to the *troubleshooting guide*, it can be a few things. Consult the guide and consider contacting Epson support.


----------



## luisalbertokid

fredworld said:


> According to the *troubleshooting guide*, it can be a few things. Consult the guide and consider contacting Epson support.


I wrote them yes! Thank you!


----------



## luisalbertokid

fredworld said:


> According to the *troubleshooting guide*, it can be a few things. Consult the guide and consider contacting Epson support.


The fact that the projector worked fine once I turned it on after a while means something? Like a "it's not that bad" kind of situation? Or should I expect the worse? Fingers crossed 🤞🤞


----------



## fredworld

luisalbertokid said:


> The fact that the projector worked fine once I turned it on after a while means something? Like a "it's not that bad" kind of situation? Or should I expect the worse? Fingers crossed 🤞🤞


There's no reason to *double post*. 
Plus, since you have a 5040 then the other thread is the correct venue. Just sayin'.


----------



## luisalbertokid

fredworld said:


> There's no reason to *double post*.
> Plus, since you have a 5040 then the other thread is the correct venue. Just sayin'.


I’m sorry I didn’t want to cause any trouble. I only posted on the 5050 thread because the 5040 is an older projector and maybe people don’t access the thread anymore - and also since both projectors are very similar folks who have the 5050 could also help. Anyways I’m sorry 😞


----------



## hms17B

If the 5040 is like the 5050, the orange light is for temperature. Looks like it overheated. When you turned it on again later, it had cooled down and so was OK, at least until it might overheat again. Check the unit's air filter to see if it's dirty. Maybe your room gets too hot on occasion. Or maybe there's not enough clearance around the projector.


----------



## luisalbertokid

hms17B said:


> If the 5040 is like the 5050, the orange light is for temperature. Looks like it overheated. When you turned it on again later, it had cooled down and so was OK, at least until it might overheat again. Check the unit's air filter to see if it's dirty. Maybe your room gets too hot on occasion. Or maybe there's not enough clearance around the projector.


Thanks, I really hope it was some overheating problem. When I turned it on a while later it worked fine, will try again tomorrow. Hope everything goes well 🤞


----------



## fredworld

luisalbertokid said:


> Thanks, I really hope it was some overheating problem. When I turned it on a while later it worked fine, will try again tomorrow. Hope everything goes well 🤞


Except that the TEMP light wasn't on in your pic. The LAMP light was on.


----------



## E2K

If you guys had to choose between the “4K” pixel shifting abilities, or 8 bit color (as opposed to 12 bit), which would be more impactful? Assuming you cannot have both at the same time


----------



## Musty Hustla

DavidK442 said:


> Any time I have installed a new lamp it gives off a very noticeable hot plastic smell. If this is your first lamp change I would say it is normal.


This was my first replacement lamp install. 

I reinstalled the myprojectorlamp unit last night and watched a couple of movies. There was no smell. The unit performs similarly to my original bulb with 800hrs on it.


----------



## luisalbertokid

fredworld said:


> Except that the TEMP light wasn't on in your pic. The LAMP light was on.


Yes I noticed that. That’s worse, am I right? 😞


----------



## fredworld

luisalbertokid said:


> Yes I noticed that. That’s worse, am I right? 😞


Unknown. Let's see what Epson advises.


----------



## luisalbertokid

fredworld said:


> Unknown. Let's see what Epson advises.


Yep. Too bad I’m in Brasil and Epson’s customer service here is not nearly as good as it is in the US… 😞


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> Except that the TEMP light wasn't on in your pic. The LAMP light was on.





luisalbertokid said:


> Yep. Too bad I’m in Brasil and Epson’s customer service here is not nearly as good as it is in the US… 😞


Right, I missed a page when looking at the manual. So flashing orange LAMP with TEMP off means either replace the lamp or internal error. In either case it says not to use it until you've contacted Epson.


----------



## 1949live

hms17B said:


> Right, I missed a page when looking at the manual. So flashing orange LAMP with TEMP off means either replace the lamp or internal error. In either case it says not to use it until you've contacted Epson.


IMO this is a known problem with this projector - i have been fighting this with Epson for 2 years. The lamp simply fails to ignite - it is a flaw in the ucode that Epson refuses to fix. I have had them replace my projector 4 times and it still behaves this way. You have to unplug and replug the projector when it does this, and then the lamp will ignite. No idea why it does that in my HT. I am in Denver (mile high) and run the lamp at high.


----------



## fredworld

I think we need to be careful about what is and what is not a known problem. @luisalbertokid has a 5040 not the 5050 (the subject of this thread). Plus, @1949live , as far as my searching goes, is the only 5050 owner with his described issue in 4 5050 projectors he's had replaced. Hopefully, Epson will respond to luisalbertokid's support request and address his warning lights alert.


----------



## luisalbertokid

Thanks for the feedback guys, and I'm sorry for posting on the wrong thread (my bad... 🤓). So I sent pics of the service menu to Epson and they said I had 47 lamp failures since May, when I bought the projector (the 5040 is still news here in Brasil), and they did not see any signs of ballast problems or whatever other issue other than a bad lamp. So I'll replace it (good luck trying to find a "real" lamp in my country) and hope that's it 😉


----------



## dr__air

Ive owned this project for about a year, and for some reason I don't hear audio unless I switch to HDMI2 then back to HDMI1.

My setup is HDMI 1 to sound bar, sound bar to ps5


----------



## rekbones

dr__air said:


> Ive owned this project for about a year, and for some reason I don't hear audio unless I switch to HDMI2 then back to HDMI1.
> 
> My setup is HDMI 1 to sound bar, sound bar to ps5


Switching HDMI ports is basically just reestablishing an HDMI handshake. How are you powering up each device? If using CEC thats most likely the culprit. If you have a universal remote or power them up individually try a different power up sequence. Sound bars and projectors are not usually a good match as they are designed for TV's. It's also possible if a long HDMI cable is involved a better cable might also solve your issue.


----------



## dr__air

rekbones said:


> Switching HDMI ports is basically just reestablishing an HDMI handshake. How are you powering up each device? If using CEC thats most likely the culprit. If you have a universal remote or power them up individually try a different power up sequence. Sound bars and projectors are not usually a good match as they are designed for TV's. It's also possible if a long HDMI cable is involved a better cable might also solve your issue.


I am not using a CEC. My power-up sequence is usually projector first, then bose soundbar. 
The HDMI I'm using is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07287LTRZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1


----------



## nbakings

Searched through this thread for others upgrading from an Epson HC2150 but couldn't quite find my answer.

My room is a family room that I am able to blank out windows during the day, but never gets completely dark until night time. Screen is a 125' Elite Screens Spectrum and throw distance is 15'. We sit 15' away from screen as well. Brightness is adequate to watch during the day even in eco mode, and looks very nicely bright at night.

I know that the 5050UB and LS11000/12000 will definitely have much better colors/blacks/HDR/contrast than my old 2150, so is probably worth the upgrade, but at my seating distance of 15' with a 125' diagonal screen, will I be able to discern the sharpness difference between the upgrades?

Thank you


----------



## PixelPusher15

nbakings said:


> Searched through this thread for others upgrading from an Epson HC2150 but couldn't quite find my answer.
> 
> My room is a family room that I am able to blank out windows during the day, but never gets completely dark until night time. Screen is a 125' Elite Screens Spectrum and throw distance is 15'. We sit 15' away from screen as well. Brightness is adequate to watch during the day even in eco mode, and looks very nicely bright at night.
> 
> I know that the 5050UB and LS11000/12000 will definitely have much better colors/blacks/HDR/contrast than my old 2150, so is probably worth the upgrade, but at my seating distance of 15' with a 125' diagonal screen, will I be able to discern the sharpness difference between the upgrades?
> 
> Thank you


The LS11000 won't have much better blacks, just an FYI...

You _might_ notice a difference in sharpness. The pixel shifting actually does a decent job at filling in the gaps between the pixels on the 1080p LCD panels thus reducing the SDE. You might notice this more than the improved resolution. Add on top of that the much better lenses on these projectors and I do think you'd describe the image to be sharper. Since the 5050 has better contrast too, it will also improve perceived sharpness.


----------



## nbakings

PixelPusher15 said:


> The LS11000 won't have much better blacks, just an FYI...
> 
> You _might_ notice a difference in sharpness. The pixel shifting actually does a decent job at filling in the gaps between the pixels on the 1080p LCD panels thus reducing the SDE. You might notice this more than the improved resolution. Add on top of that the much better lenses on these projectors and I do think you'd describe the image to be sharper. Since the 5050 has better contrast too, it will also improve perceived sharpness.


Thank you! So then, because I am viewing from such a long relative distance from what the optimum for 4K/125" screen, do you think the 5050UB (at it's much lower price and better contrast) would _at that seating distance_ be a somewhat comparable overall viewing pleasure experience to the much more expensive LS12000? I'm OK with spending more if you think it would be a much better viewing experience at that seating distance. If the difference between the 5050UB and the 11000/12000 won't be that discerable at 15 feet, then I am certainly OK with saving some money.


----------



## PixelPusher15

nbakings said:


> Thank you! So then, because I am viewing from such a long relative distance from what the optimum for 4K/125" screen, do you think the 5050UB (at it's much lower price and better contrast) would _at that seating distance_ be a somewhat comparable overall viewing pleasure experience to the much more expensive LS12000? I'm OK with spending more if you think it would be a much better viewing experience at that seating distance. If the difference between the 5050UB and the 11000/12000 won't be that discerable at 15 feet, then I am certainly OK with saving some money.


Here's my summary of what I thought of the LS12000 when I directly compared it to my 5050 Epson 5050 still worth full price? 

I'd pick the 5050, personally. $2k doesn't buy you much better picture quality IMO


----------



## dr__air

rekbones said:


> Switching HDMI ports is basically just reestablishing an HDMI handshake. How are you powering up each device? If using CEC thats most likely the culprit. If you have a universal remote or power them up individually try a different power up sequence. Sound bars and projectors are not usually a good match as they are designed for TV's. It's also possible if a long HDMI cable is involved a better cable might also solve your issue.


Just a minor update, bought a new HDMI(https://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocket...4014.p?skuId=6194014#anchor=productVariations)

Still, the same issue, tried replacing the sound bar and doing HDMI out(soundbar to projector) and HDMI in(ps5 to sound bar), didn't work. 

Got a blu ray player and tried to do HDMI out(blu ray to projector) and HDMI audio out(blu ray to soundbar) and the same results.


----------



## fredworld

nbakings said:


> Thank you! So then, because I am viewing from such a long relative distance from what the optimum for 4K/125" screen, do you think the 5050UB (at it's much lower price and better contrast) would _at that seating distance_ be a somewhat comparable overall viewing pleasure experience to the much more expensive LS12000? I'm OK with spending more if you think it would be a much better viewing experience at that seating distance. If the difference between the 5050UB and the 11000/12000 won't be that discerable at 15 feet, then I am certainly OK with saving some money.
> 
> 
> PixelPusher15 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my summary of what I thought of the LS12000 when I directly compared it to my 5050 Epson 5050 still worth full price?
> 
> I'd pick the 5050, personally. $2k doesn't buy you much better picture quality IMO
Click to expand...

Plus, with the 11000/12000 you'll lose the capacity for 3D, if it matters.


----------



## rekbones

dr__air said:


> Just a minor update, bought a new HDMI(https://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocket...4014.p?skuId=6194014#anchor=productVariations)
> 
> Still, the same issue, tried replacing the sound bar and doing HDMI out(soundbar to projector) and HDMI in(ps5 to sound bar), didn't work.
> 
> Got a blu ray player and tried to do HDMI out(blu ray to projector) and HDMI audio out(blu ray to soundbar) and the same results.


Looked at that new cable and I see no mention of its actual rating or construction so no clue if that is a real certified 4k/60hz cable or not. The one you listed previously in theory should be fine. How ever I have seen people go through 3 or more cables that are described 4k/60 or better and still not work. If you used the two (video/audio) HDMI's on a BR player and still got no audio until you do a switch of the HDMI ports on the projector and it fixes it, you got me stumped as that should virtually eliminate the projector. The only thing I can think of is some incompatibility between that sound bar and projector. Do make sure to disable CEC in every device connected via HDMI to eliminate it as a problem.


----------



## nbakings

PixelPusher15 said:


> Here's my summary of what I thought of the LS12000 when I directly compared it to my 5050 Epson 5050 still worth full price?
> 
> I'd pick the 5050, personally. $2k doesn't buy you much better picture quality IMO


Thanks a bunch. Appreciate your knowledge. Gonna get the 5050 and try it out since it is the one readily available now anyway.


----------



## nbakings

fredworld said:


> Plus, with the 11000/12000 you'll lose the capacity for 3D, if it matters.


You know what is funny. I have a pretty large collection of 3D movies that we used to watch all the time on our ancient LG passive 3D tv, but since I have had my projector, even though it has 3D capability, we never watch them anymore. 🤷‍♂️ But that being said, the thought of NEVER being able to watch them again makes me nostalgic and want to keep that option alive. 😂


----------



## hms17B

dr__air said:


> I am not using a CEC. My power-up sequence is usually projector first, then bose soundbar.
> The HDMI I'm using is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07287LTRZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1


I still get a bad connection from time to time and have to switch inputs somewhere to re-establish it (projector or AVR). Never have figured out why. But if switching inputs then back fixes it, guess it's not really a problem but an annoyance. I always power up the projector last and that seems to be effective almost all the time.


----------



## DeChris86

Hey there, so i went from an Acer DLP to a Sony VPL 295 which had bad contrast and black levels caused by drift. Got an UB6050 few days ago but can't get good black levels either: 126' white gain 1.0 screen, Apple TV 4K, darkened dedicated Home Cinema with black painted walls and ceiling (no velvet used by now), Dark Grey seats,black door velvet door, black curtains in the back,15qm room. Horror/Thriller scenes still look washed out and grey, just slightly better than dlp and degenerated Sony.. You got any idea? Thank you guys in advance, cheers, Chris


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## luisalbertokid

DeChris86 said:


> Hey there, so i went from an Acer DLP to a Sony VPL 295 which had bad contrast and black levels caused by drift. Got an UB6050 few days ago but can't get good black levels either: 126' white gain 1.0 screen, Apple TV 4K, darkened dedicated Home Cinema with black painted walls and ceiling (no velvet used by now), Dark Grey seats,black door velvet door, black curtains in the back,15qm room. Horror/Thriller scenes still look washed out and grey, just slightly better than dlp and degenerated Sony.. You got any idea? Thank you guys in advance, cheers, Chris


Strange, I have a 5040ub also coming from a DLP (BenQ HT3550) and I find its black levels very good, in both SDR and HDR. The only thing I dislike on the 5040 is the absence of a HDR brightness adjustment like the BenQ and the 5050 both have. There are some very good calibration threads in the Forum with some great tips, maybe check them out. I'm not a calibrator, I start of with someone's settings and then adjust by eye to my personal taste.


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## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> Hey there, so i went from an Acer DLP to a Sony VPL 295 which had bad contrast and black levels caused by drift. Got an UB6050 few days ago but can't get good black levels either: 126' white gain 1.0 screen, Apple TV 4K, darkened dedicated Home Cinema with black painted walls and ceiling (no velvet used by now), Dark Grey seats,black door velvet door, black curtains in the back,15qm room. Horror/Thriller scenes still look washed out and grey, just slightly better than dlp and degenerated Sony.. You got any idea? Thank you guys in advance, cheers, Chris


A Sony 295 has better native contrast but the 6050 should be better on super super dark stuff due to the dynamic iris. The 6050 is much brighter so if you’re running it as such then the black levels will be higher.

What mode/power level are you running it?


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## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Hey there, so i went from an Acer DLP to a Sony VPL 295 which had bad contrast and black levels caused by drift. Got an UB6050 few days ago but can't get good black levels either: 126' white gain 1.0 screen, Apple TV 4K, darkened dedicated Home Cinema with black painted walls and ceiling (no velvet used by now), Dark Grey seats,black door velvet door, black curtains in the back,15qm room. Horror/Thriller scenes still look washed out and grey, just slightly better than dlp and degenerated Sony.. You got any idea? Thank you guys in advance, cheers, Chris


I have a 5050 and find the iris to be necessary - both dynamic and manual in order to get acceptable black. Even then black is not black, but is dark enough to be tolerable.


----------



## DeChris86

So, here is what i've done, checked so far and my thoughts:


Trying all Presets (dynamic, digital cinema e.g.)
Clamping down the manual iris and enabling dynamic iris
Adjusting brightness
Trying EOTF Gammacurves (simple Home cinema)
HDMI Signal isn't on full but "limited"

So i wonder, when Epson is powered on and warms up, shows the white Epson wiriting the rest is near black (just as black as my room) no lighting, no reflections. It never get's to that black level again after there is input (dark movies, even black screen is grey)..:
Could it be the screen itself? It's non acoustic, has black foil on the back ehich should eliminate light that passes the white screen..
Could Apple TV somehow raise the black levels?
Already checked the AVR and direct connection ATV4K -> UB6050 doesnt change a thing 😧


----------



## DeChris86

... raised blacks and dead pixel?


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## rekbones

DeChris86 said:


> ... raised blacks and dead pixel?


I think your expectations are just too high. The 5050/6050's are barely entry level in the scope of high contrast projectors. My JVC RS49u is rated a 40,000 to 1 native CR (JVC's ratings are the closest to actual from any manufacture) and truly trounces my 5050ub for absolute black level but still looks gray in comparison to my Sony OLED.

My 5050 has a dead pixel also but it's black so it's in the main board not in a panel and it's hardly noticeable and off to the side so I can easily ignore it. That is maybe a dust blob but can't tell from the picture.


----------



## biglen

rekbones said:


> I think your expectations are just too high. The 5050/6050's are barely entry level in the scope of high contrast projectors. My JVC RS49u is rated a 40,000 to 1 native CR (JVC's ratings are the closest to actual from any manufacture) and truly trounces my 5050ub for absolute black level but still looks gray in comparison to my Sony OLED.
> 
> My 5050 has a dead pixel also but it's black so it's in the main board not in a panel and it's hardly noticeable and off to the side so I can easily ignore it. That is maybe a dust blob but can't tell from the picture.


I've been VERY happy with the blacks on my 5050.


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> I've been VERY happy with the blacks on my 5050.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Those look pretty typical of what I believe most owners here are getting with their 5050/6050 units, i.e. exceptional to very acceptable black images in scenes of high contrast. But @DeChris86 is referring to dark, thriller, horror and black screen that he finds less than satisfying. 
Not recalling his equipment chain I might tend to feel that he has a point. I watch a good bit of noir myself but I've come to accept the compromise that I'm getting. Most recently, The Batman 4k UHD disc has been in my player drawer often and the difference in black level detail between disc and the HBO Max stream was impressive. Notably, the scene where the Riddler is partly hidden in the shadows just before the mayor's murder. His shadow outline and several hints of clothing details are easily missed in the stream even when knowing he's there. The disc has much better blending of shadow and detail verses the near crush of the stream, as displayed on my 5050. But, having said that, it's far from the black displayed in scenes of high contrast like @biglen posted, however, because of the consistency of the various black levels in that scene from The Batman my mood isn't broken and I can continue to enjoy the film. 
Admittedly, a patient calibration, even subjectively with something like the Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark disc, can bring satisfying levels of more challenging content, if the source is well mastered for playback.


----------



## fredworld

DeChris86 said:


> ... raised blacks and dead pixel?





rekbones said:


> I think your expectations are just too high. The 5050/6050's are barely entry level in the scope of high contrast projectors. My JVC RS49u is rated a 40,000 to 1 native CR (JVC's ratings are the closest to actual from any manufacture) and truly trounces my 5050ub for absolute black level but still looks gray in comparison to my Sony OLED.
> 
> My 5050 has a dead pixel also but it's black so it's in the main board not in a panel and it's hardly noticeable and off to the side so I can easily ignore it. That is maybe a dust blob but can't tell from the picture.


It looks like a dead pixel to me because the on screen text is in focus. @DeChris86 should defocus to see if the pixel/blob shrinks or expands. Dust blobs that I have shrink down to their specific wriggle of shape as the lens focuses away from the on-screen text.


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> Those look pretty typical of what I believe most owners here are getting with their 5050/6050 units, i.e. exceptional to very acceptable black images in scenes of high contrast. But @DeChris86 is referring to dark, thriller, horror and black screen that he finds less than satisfying.
> Not recalling his equipment chain I might tend to feel that he has a point. I watch a good bit of noir myself but I've come to accept the compromise that I'm getting. Most recently, The Batman 4k UHD disc has been in my player drawer often and the difference in black level detail between disc and the HBO Max stream was impressive. Notably, the scene where the Riddler is partly hidden in the shadows just before the mayor's murder. His shadow outline and several hints of clothing details are easily missed in the stream even when knowing he's there. The disc has much better blending of shadow and detail verses the near crush of the stream, as displayed on my 5050. But, having said that, it's far from the black displayed in scenes of high contrast like @biglen posted, however, because of the consistency of the various black levels in that scene from The Batman my mood isn't broken and I can continue to enjoy the film.
> Admittedly, a patient calibration, even subjectively with something like the Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark disc, can bring satisfying levels of more challenging content, if the source is well mastered for playback.


Right, high contrast scenes do not show black performance, it's low or non-contrast that does. When seen next to brightness, even medium gray can look deep black. To see how black a projector can get, one needs to view a black scene or pattern (like something from the Spears and Munsil disc). With aggressive iris settings, a full black image can look pretty dark, but as soon as there's even a small amount of brightness present the iris opens up some and black becomes gray. However, the more brightness in the image, the darker the black part can appear due to perception. Comparison in perception exaggerates things. Plus as an image becomes brighter, the irises of our eyes close down which makes things appear darker.

Black level on this level of projector is no-win. Ideal cannot be achieved no matter what one does. It's a limitation to the technology. One can get it better with adjustments, especially by using the iris, but it's an out-of-reach goal. Projecting a larger image will diffuse the light dimming everything - blacks are darker, but so are whites. Likewise with a gray screen - dims everything. A blackened room helps when there's brightness in the image but does little for the truly dark scenes. We can rave about the picture most of the time, but when we get to one of those really dark scenes, we're somewhat disappointed.

I had to edit this to moderate "disappointed". Don't want to make it seem worse than it is. The black level can be very good, but it's just not black. Most of the time it can look amazing. It's just when you get to a really dark scene that we know needs to look black, then we don't see what we're expecting. We know the inside of a cave with no lights on is not any shade of gray no matter how dark a gray - it's supposed to be BLACK. But think what it would cost us to get such a projector as could render true black. I know I don't have that kind of money. I am very glad that such a projector as the 5050/6050 exists. Without it I would have had to settle for something where I would have been very disappointed.


----------



## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> So, here is what i've done, checked so far and my thoughts:
> 
> 
> Trying all Presets (dynamic, digital cinema e.g.)
> Clamping down the manual iris and enabling dynamic iris
> Adjusting brightness
> Trying EOTF Gammacurves (simple Home cinema)
> HDMI Signal isn't on full but "limited"
> 
> So i wonder, when Epson is powered on and warms up, shows the white Epson wiriting the rest is near black (just as black as my room) no lighting, no reflections. It never get's to that black level again after there is input (dark movies, even black screen is grey)..:
> Could it be the screen itself? It's non acoustic, has black foil on the back ehich should eliminate light that passes the white screen..
> Could Apple TV somehow raise the black levels?
> Already checked the AVR and direct connection ATV4K -> UB6050 doesnt change a thing 😧


What content are you watching? Is it mainly HDR or also SDR? A lot of times HDR with mediocre tone mapping can make dark stuff really hazy which makes it look like a black level problem when I’m fact it’s a HDR handling problem.


----------



## jaredmwright

I could never achieve what I would call good black levels or good HDR until I invested in a Videoprocesor. I highly recommend anyone wanting to maximize your projector capabilities give it a try or go view one in person with and without to see the difference it can make.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

jaredmwright said:


> I could never achieve what I would call good black levels or good HDR until I invested in a Videoprocesor. I highly recommend anyone wanting to maximize your projector capabilities give it a try or go view one in person with and without to see the difference it can make.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


Not trying to be contentious but it won't make zero-level black any darker than zero.


----------



## DeChris86

rekbones said:


> I think your expectations are just too high. The 5050/6050's are barely entry level in the scope of high contrast projectors. My JVC RS49u is rated a 40,000 to 1 native CR (JVC's ratings are the closest to actual from any manufacture) and truly trounces my 5050ub for absolute black level but still looks gray in comparison to my Sony OLED.
> 
> My 5050 has a dead pixel also but it's black so it's in the main board not in a panel and it's hardly noticeable and off to the side so I can easily ignore it. That is maybe a dust blob but can't tell from the picture.


I don't know.. thought there has to be a great difference between 600 bucks ACER DLP, drifted Sony with blu-ish blacks and an ub6050 which many people like and most review hype especially the blacl floor "not as good as Sony or even JVC but nice"..
When dynamic iris closes (only full black screen?!) It's nice in dynamic mode.


----------



## DeChris86

fredworld said:


> It looks like a dead pixel to me because the on screen text is in focus. @DeChris86 should defocus to see if the pixel/blob shrinks or expands. Dust blobs that I have shrink down to their specific wriggle of shape as the lens focuses away from the on-screen text.


It kinda "pulsating" light growing and fading away. Yesterday i didn't see it anymore up close. Strange.


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> What content are you watching? Is it mainly HDR or also SDR? A lot of times HDR with mediocre tone mapping can make dark stuff really hazy which makes it look like a black level problem when I’m fact it’s a HDR handling problem.


Mainly HDR i would say but the Horror Movie "Come Play" was full HD in SDR


----------



## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> Right, high contrast scenes do not show black performance, it's low or non-contrast that does. When seen next to brightness, even medium gray can look deep black. To see how black a projector can get, one needs to view a black scene or pattern (like something from the Spears and Munsil disc). With aggressive iris settings, a full black image can look pretty dark, but as soon as there's even a small amount of brightness present the iris opens up some and black becomes gray. However, the more brightness in the image, the darker the black part can appear due to perception. Comparison in perception exaggerates things. Plus as an image becomes brighter, the irises of our eyes close down which makes things appear darker.
> 
> Black level on this level of projector is no-win. Ideal cannot be achieved no matter what one does. It's a limitation to the technology. One can get it better with adjustments, especially by using the iris, but it's an out-of-reach goal. Projecting a larger image will diffuse the light dimming everything - blacks are darker, but so are whites. Likewise with a gray screen - dims everything. A blackened room helps when there's brightness in the image but does little for the truly dark scenes. We can rave about the picture most of the time, but when we get to one of those really dark scenes, we're somewhat disappointed.
> 
> I had to edit this to moderate "disappointed". Don't want to make it seem worse than it is. The black level can be very good, but it's just not black. Most of the time it can look amazing. It's just when you get to a really dark scene that we know needs to look black, then we don't see what we're expecting. We know the inside of a cave with no lights on is not any shade of gray no matter how dark a gray - it's supposed to be BLACK. But think what it would cost us to get such a projector as could render true black. I know I don't have that kind of money. I am very glad that such a projector as the 5050/6050 exists. Without it I would have had to settle for something where I would have been very disappointed.


Very nice summary and conclusion on this!
The brighter the overall Image the blacker the blacks in it will look. Or of the surrounding is bright just like if u got ambient lighting behind a TV: Even dark scenes now look good with rich blacks on a cheap TV but as you turn down the backlights your eyes aren't "fooled" anymore and see poor black floor.
As for now: When UB6050 closed auto iris in full black screen on dynamic mode- it's good. But it should work in near black scenes aswell, shouldn't it?


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> Not trying to be contentious but it won't make zero-level black any darker than zero.


You're right, it doesn't. But it gives the appearance of better blacks by increasing the on-screen contrast between elements. The built in HDR handling on my JVC manages to make its own black levels look poor on a lot of dark stuff.


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> A Sony 295 has better native contrast but the 6050 should be better on super super dark stuff due to the dynamic iris. The 6050 is much brighter so if you’re running it as such then the black levels will be higher.
> 
> What mode/power level are you running it?


It has better native on/off but sinking over time (especially if it's not driven too often).. i had a used 295 and blacks were blueish, low contrast ratio..
I tried medium and eco so far..high is just too loud.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Finally got around to testing these CPL filters. Ummm, this is interesting. Gonna need more testing but here are my results.

*Hoya NXT CIR-PL*
5900:1 without filter
7900:1 with
*50% light reduction / 33% contrast boost

K&F Concepts Nano-X CPL Filter*
6200:1 without filter
8400:1 with filter
*18% light reduction / 35% contrast boost*

The without the filter differences were there because I changed the iris level between filters (-8 to -11). So that's also what I'm getting with those iris positions. It looks like around 9000:1 is possible with useable light output 😲. As I said I need to do more testing. The Hoya filter reduces too much light so that's going back. The K&F one is going to get a full battery of tests. There is a color shift so I'm going to see how much that impacts things as it could affect the D65 contrast. I'm also going to test ADL contrast as well. The filter position and rotation matters. The inside of the filter that would be facing the camera's sensor needs to be facing the screen. Its really, really early and I wouldn't be surprised if something else makes this not a useable solution so don't go running out and buying one just yet. Sure is interesting though...


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> Those look pretty typical of what I believe most owners here are getting with their 5050/6050 units, i.e. exceptional to very acceptable black images in scenes of high contrast. But @DeChris86 is referring to dark, thriller, horror and black screen that he finds less than satisfying.
> Not recalling his equipment chain I might tend to feel that he has a point. I watch a good bit of noir myself but I've come to accept the compromise that I'm getting. Most recently, The Batman 4k UHD disc has been in my player drawer often and the difference in black level detail between disc and the HBO Max stream was impressive. Notably, the scene where the Riddler is partly hidden in the shadows just before the mayor's murder. His shadow outline and several hints of clothing details are easily missed in the stream even when knowing he's there. The disc has much better blending of shadow and detail verses the near crush of the stream, as displayed on my 5050. But, having said that, it's far from the black displayed in scenes of high contrast like @biglen posted, however, because of the consistency of the various black levels in that scene from The Batman my mood isn't broken and I can continue to enjoy the film.
> Admittedly, a patient calibration, even subjectively with something like the Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark disc, can bring satisfying levels of more challenging content, if the source is well mastered for playback.


Is this the scene you're referring to?










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## fredworld

biglen said:


> Is this the scene you're referring to?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup! That's an excellent rendering, btw.
Note the folds in the clothing, mask details and how well the overall figure blends with the background drapery creating some difficulty with, but not impossible, identification. Easily missed on a first viewing but there in subsequent playback.


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## DavidK442

DeChris86 said:


> I don't know.. thought there has to be a great difference between 600 bucks ACER DLP, drifted Sony with blu-ish blacks and an ub6050 which many people like and most review hype especially the blacl floor "not as good as Sony or even JVC but nice"..
> When dynamic iris closes (only full black screen?!) It's nice in dynamic mode.


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## biglen

fredworld said:


> Yup! That's an excellent rendering, btw.
> Note the folds in the clothing, mask details and how well the overall figure blends with the background drapery creating some difficulty with, but not impossible, identification. Easily missed on a first viewing but there in subsequent playback.


That's using MadVR with a stream and my 5050. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> That's using MadVR with a stream and my 5050.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I use my 6050 with MadVR and Videoprocessor and get similar amazing images. As mentioned above, the perceived contrast is significantly improved and depending on your setup, the calibration is set once and very consistent vs constantly adjusting settings for inputs and source changes.

I thought similar as others that the limit in contrast and HDR were pretty poor, but with a processor in line it is a game changer. I have seen 10K projectors that don't look as good as mine after calibration. There is a good YouTube shootout that shows how close these can be with proper calibration and processor use. Highly recommend watching it.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> That's using MadVR with a stream and my 5050.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok, so I just completed the "Where to Buy" form on the MadVR website to ID a dealer near me so I can discuss a possible purchase.
I just sold my 50 year old Rickenbacker 4001 jet black bass guitar so I should put the money towards something that will be pleasurably lasting. (And friends tell me that I'm to blame for how they spend THEIR money.)


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## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Very nice summary and conclusion on this!
> The brighter the overall Image the blacker the blacks in it will look. Or of the surrounding is bright just like if u got ambient lighting behind a TV: Even dark scenes now look good with rich blacks on a cheap TV but as you turn down the backlights your eyes aren't "fooled" anymore and see poor black floor.
> As for now: When UB6050 closed auto iris in full black screen on dynamic mode- it's good. But it should work in near black scenes aswell, shouldn't it?


I gave up on Dynamic as Natural and Digital Cinema can also shut the iris way down on really dark scenes. On full black the iris can close all the way, but as soon as there's any light in the image the iris has to open up some and when it does, black is no longer black. I found that in a couple of cases when Dynamic closed the iris all the way on black that when the next frames came up with just a little bit of light in them, the iris did not open quite enough and part of the image was cropped off.


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## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Finally got around to testing these CPL filters. Ummm, this is interesting. Gonna need more testing but here are my results.
> 
> *Hoya NXT CIR-PL*
> 5900:1 without filter
> 7900:1 with
> *50% light reduction / 33% contrast boost
> 
> K&F Concepts Nano-X CPL Filter*
> 6200:1 without filter
> 8400:1 with filter
> *18% light reduction / 35% contrast boost*
> 
> The without the filter differences were there because I changed the iris level between filters (-8 to -11). So that's also what I'm getting with those iris positions. It looks like around 9000:1 is possible with useable light output 😲. As I said I need to do more testing. The Hoya filter reduces too much light so that's going back. The K&F one is going to get a full battery of tests. There is a color shift so I'm going to see how much that impacts things as it could affect the D65 contrast. I'm also going to test ADL contrast as well. The filter position and rotation matters. The inside of the filter that would be facing the camera's sensor needs to be facing the screen. Its really, really early and I wouldn't be surprised if something else makes this not a useable solution so don't go running out and buying one just yet. Sure is interesting though...


My test was certainly not as complete as yours and it was just by eye, but what I noticed most was the overall light reduction and wasn't entirely pleased. Also saw a color shift that was not minor - changed with degree of rotation of the filter. It will be interesting to see what your conclusions are. If you do find them to be worthwhile, hopefully you'll also determine a good way to mount one.


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## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> My test was certainly not as complete as yours and it was just by eye, but what I noticed most was the overall light reduction and wasn't entirely pleased. Also saw a color shift that was not minor - changed with degree of rotation of the filter. It will be interesting to see what your conclusions are. If you do find them to be worthwhile, hopefully you'll also determine a good way to mount one.


The Hoya filter had a much larger color shift and impact on light. It was an easy no without even measuring. The K&F filter when "correctly" positioned and rotated seemed to have a small impact on color and the light reduction was minimal. Trying to test more now but I'm fighting software


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## biglen

fredworld said:


> Ok, so I just completed the "Where to Buy" form on the MadVR website to ID a dealer near me so I can discuss a possible purchase.
> I just sold my 50 year old Rickenbacker 4001 jet black bass guitar so I should put the money towards something that will be pleasurably lasting. (And friends tell me that I'm to blame for how they spend THEIR money.)


You can just build a cheap HTPC to run MadVR. If you just want to play discs and ripped movies through MadVR, then that's the cheapest solution. If you want to have MadVR for streaming services too, then you'll need an Envy or Lumagen which cost thousands of dollars. If you have an old PC laying around it will probably work if you use a good GPU. The GPU is 99% of running MadVR. I use a RTX2060 Super and I can run MadVR on pretty high settings. 


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## PixelPusher15

Ok, I ran the ADL tests while holding the filter in place. It was also tricky to get everything in position and make sure the filter was in the best placement. There might be some room to improve here as this run only shows a 28% improvement in FOFO.


ADLContrastContrast w/FilterPercent Change0 %4577587128%0 %1p4577587128%1/4 %4331545426%1/2 %4146513324%1 %3788456621%2 %3601430419%3 %3140365416%4 %319932752%5 %280028020%10%25632508-2%15%23022266-2%20%19491895-3%25%19401868-4%30%16191543-5%50%242225-7%


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## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> You can just build a cheap HTPC to run MadVR. If you just want to play discs and ripped movies through MadVR, then that's the cheapest solution. If you want to have MadVR for streaming services too, then you'll need an Envy or Lumagen which cost thousands of dollars.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Or build your own PC using videoprocessor.org with MadVR, pretty easy if you can follow directions and can be done for well under 2K

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


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## biglen

jaredmwright said:


> Or build your own PC using videoprocessor.org with MadVR, pretty easy if you can follow directions and can be done for well under 2K
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


Aren't there HDCP limitations with Video Processor?


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> You can just build a cheap HTPC to run MadVR. If you just want to play discs and ripped movies through MadVR, then that's the cheapest solution. If you want to have MadVR for streaming services too, then you'll need an Envy or Lumagen which cost thousands of dollars. If you have an old PC laying around it will probably work if you use a good GPU. The GPU is 99% of running MadVR. I use a RTX2060 Super and I can run MadVR on pretty high settings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for that info. I'll await contact from the MadVR dealer to discuss best implementation methods for my system and costs. I have a Win XP desktop in storage.


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## biglen

fredworld said:


> Thanks for that info. I'll await contact from the MadVR dealer to discuss best implementation methods for my system and costs. I have a Win XP desktop in storage.


I think the cheapest MadVR retail solution is probably around $4500. 


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## fredworld

biglen said:


> I think the cheapest MadVR retail solution is probably around $4500.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Whoa!!! That's 50% more than the 5050 at MSRP. I thought I saw prices of $999 and $1999 on the MadVR site.
EDIT: I just re-searched MadVR pricing. That $999/$1999 was speculation by someone several years ago on AVSforums about competitive budget versions.


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## PixelPusher15

Alright guys, you ready for this one?

No filter. Natural mode. Iris fully open. All gains/offsets reset









Filter in place









Ok, so is this better than just using the iris? Well, I have some numbers on the iris from awhile ago










The iris boosts contrast and cuts light at about the same rate. If we can maintain that initial measurement of a 35% boost in contrast and only a 18% reduction in light then we are way ahead of the game. That would essentially be a iris position of 17 for contrast but 9 for light loss. Aaaand, we may actually be better than that since this is assisting with color balance. 

My plan is to 3D print a mount that I can adhere to the front of the lens assembly and slightly rotate so I can tweak this. I noticed that I could improve color balance while not impacting light loss by turning the filter ever so slightly.


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## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Whoa!!! That's 50% more the the 5050 at MSRP. I thought I saw prices of $999 and $1999 on the MadVR site.


@biglen The cheapest madVR rig is $8k
madVR Envy Pro video processor | Audio Advice


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## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> @biglen The cheapest madVR rig is $8k
> madVR Envy Pro video processor | Audio Advice


Ok, that's a whole different story. Seems I should reassess. Anyway I'm wanted back down on planet Earth.


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## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Ok, that's a whole different story. Seems I should reassess. Anyway I'm wanted back down on planet Earth.


A Lumagen can be had for under $5k (used or probably from a dealer willing to deal) and that has great DTM too


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## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> A Lumagen can be had for under $5k (used or probably from a dealer willing to deal) and that has great DTM too


I was guessing around $4500. 


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## biglen

fredworld said:


> Ok, that's a whole different story. Seems I should reassess. Anyway I'm wanted back down on planet Earth.


If you have a PC laying around that can handle a good GPU, then you can have a MadVR HTPC for pretty cheap. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> Aren't there HDCP limitations with Video Processor?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No, this is a solved issue. Depending on your setup you can use a splitter to assist, HDFury Arcana or in my case AMD GPU software I use the HDCP option and it works great. 

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


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## DeChris86

I find it a bit "odd" not seeing "good" or "acceptable" black level performance for my taste on a ~2600€ projector. Maybe my one just isn't the best unit? I 'll take the chance and ask for a "filter" this red one to improve black floor. But since there are no alternatives for upgrade till the JVC N(P)5 and such:
I'll try to get the most out of the UB6050 and at least i don't need tonbe scared of lowered contrast over time anymore.
What are your favorite settings/picture mode on the Epson? Tomorrow i'll have time for further testing 🎥


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## gibson61

DeChris86 said:


> I find it a bit "odd" not seeing "good" or "acceptable" black level performance for my taste on a ~2600€ projector. Maybe my one just isn't the best unit? I 'll take the chance and ask for a "filter" this red one to improve black floor. But since there are no alternatives for upgrade till the JVC N(P)5 and such:
> I'll try to get the most out of the UB6050 and at least i don't need tonbe scared of lowered contrast over time anymore.
> What are your favorite settings/picture mode on the Epson? Tomorrow i'll have time for further testing 🎥


Are you using the 6050 outside in the daylight' I ask because it sounds like you do not have a clue. The 6050 has the best Blacks of any projector at their price point. Any projector JVC SONY Epson needs a black dark room to shine. You do not even mention what type of room you are using it in.


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## DeChris86

gibson61 said:


> Are you using the 6050 outside in the daylight' I ask because it sounds like you do not have a clue. The 6050 has the best Blacks of any projector at their price point. Any projector JVC SONY Epson needs a black dark room to shine. You do not even mention what type of room you are using it in.


No. You would know if you had read my initial post of 24.09. 😧 = dark room here.
Best blacks until jvc , Sony so it's said,ye but i haven't seen good blacks yet,-Only if dyn. Iris fully closes.


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## PixelPusher15

gibson61 said:


> Are you using the 6050 outside in the daylight' I ask because it sounds like you do not have a clue. The 6050 has the best Blacks of any projector at their price point. Any projector JVC SONY Epson needs a black dark room to shine. You do not even mention what type of room you are using it in.


Well that was harsh. He does say he is in a bat cave:



DeChris86 said:


> Hey there, so i went from an Acer DLP to a Sony VPL 295 which had bad contrast and black levels caused by drift. Got an UB6050 few days ago but can't get good black levels either: 126' white gain 1.0 screen, Apple TV 4K, darkened dedicated Home Cinema with black painted walls and ceiling (no velvet used by now), Dark Grey seats,black door velvet door, black curtains in the back,15qm room. Horror/Thriller scenes still look washed out and grey, just slightly better than dlp and degenerated Sony.. You got any idea? Thank you guys in advance, cheers, Chris


To me it sounds like your expectations are too great.

Here's what I'd try. Put it in Natural and Medium lamp and pull up a mixed scene, not too bright and not dark. Adjust the manual iris down as far as you are ok with for that kind of content. The reason I said medium is that you'll probably close the iris down a lot and get better contrast. Then set the Auto Iris to High Speed and gamma to -1 or -2. -2 has the potential to crush shadow detail. Leave brightness and contrast at 50. For HDR, bring the HDR slider down for most content. I believe most find that 4-6 is the sweet spot.

If you want to give dynamic a go then be prepared for some ugly colors without calibration. For the best blacks there you want to put it in Eco power mode so you can adjust the iris. For an attempt at correcting some color issues I'd go to the gains and pull green and blue down to 40 and then adjust Color Saturation down to 45-47. Make sure you pull gamma down to at least -1 and have the auto iris at high speed.


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## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> Finally got around to testing these CPL filters. Ummm, this is interesting. Gonna need more testing but here are my results.
> 
> *Hoya NXT CIR-PL*
> 5900:1 without filter
> 7900:1 with
> *50% light reduction / 33% contrast boost
> 
> K&F Concepts Nano-X CPL Filter*
> 6200:1 without filter
> 8400:1 with filter
> *18% light reduction / 35% contrast boost*
> 
> The without the filter differences were there because I changed the iris level between filters (-8 to -11). So that's also what I'm getting with those iris positions. It looks like around 9000:1 is possible with useable light output 😲. As I said I need to do more testing. The Hoya filter reduces too much light so that's going back. The K&F one is going to get a full battery of tests. There is a color shift so I'm going to see how much that impacts things as it could affect the D65 contrast. I'm also going to test ADL contrast as well. The filter position and rotation matters. The inside of the filter that would be facing the camera's sensor needs to be facing the screen. Its really, really early and I wouldn't be surprised if something else makes this not a useable solution so don't go running out and buying one just yet. Sure is interesting though...


Wow, that sounds promising 🎥


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## markymiles

Agreed, watching with interest.………


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## PixelPusher15

I was able to achieve 9200:1 and 900 lumens this morning with the projector in high lamp/natural and the iris at -18. Playing with some various modes and iris settings I actually got 13k:1 but I believe that was uncalibrated dynamic, Eco lamp and the iris at -18...not exactly usable.

It's really tricky getting this filter positioned the same between runs. Changing the rotation just a little bit has a significant impact on color (measured, not visible) and I'm not sure which way to rotate it for best contrast/color. I've gotten varied results in contrast boost/light loss but everything so far is better than using the iris. It improves color by about 5dE, and cuts about 20% of light. Contrast is boosted by at least 25%. But since it improves color while boosting contrast it is even better for contrast vs calibrated. I'm going to 3D print this little mount (my screw on mount was too hard to adjust) that will allow me to rotate it easily. Then once I find the best position I'll do a calibrated without filter vs with.


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## PixelPusher15

More good news with this lil filter is the gamut expansion. Check this out:
K&F CPL Filter Epson 5050 : Screenshot Comparison 

I'm having a hard time fully replicating the initial 18% light loss/35% contrast boost but I have some theories as to why. This last run was around 18% loss and 23% gain. I'm going to tweak some things and see what I come up with.


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## samlooker

I have a 120'' screen, in the basement the only position I can celling mount the 5050ub is at 14', and the center of the lens will be 5'' below the top of the screen - will the vertical offset work in this case? Can I use the lens shift to make this (5'' below the top of the screen) work?
Thanks.


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## PixelPusher15

I created a thread here to discuss the filter: Can You Improve Contrast and Gamut Coverage with a $40 Circular Polarizer? I think yes. | AVS Forum 

The newest development is that for some reason the filter interacts with the iris and when it is closed you get a bigger multiple in a contrast bump.


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## rekbones

samlooker said:


> I have a 120'' screen, in the basement the only position I can celling mount the 5050ub is at 14', and the center of the lens will be 5'' below the top of the screen - will the vertical offset work in this case? Can I use the lens shift to make this (5'' below the top of the screen) work?
> Thanks.


Yes your well within all specs. Vertically it can be *anywhere between* 46% of screen height above or below the screen, right side up or inverted.


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## jwc1969

New subject (no doubt old subject): Why in God's green apple can't the powers-that-be at Epson allow a firmware update that allows their wonderful UB Series (I have the 5050) to automatically detect HDR and switch the picture mode accordingly? I can't tell you how many times I find my wife and/or kids watching something HDR in SDR and something SDR in HDR because they haven't a clue nor give a hoot how to change from one dynamic range to another. It's not unlike the Sony UHD players making you go into the menu to choose Dolby Vision. WTF? It's just dumb, plain and simple. I will send anyone who can convince me otherwise $1.00 via Venmo. Cheers.


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## Tsunamijhoe

jwc1969 said:


> New subject (no doubt old subject): Why in God's green apple can't the powers-that-be at Epson allow a firmware update that allows their wonderful UB Series (I have the 5050) to automatically detect HDR and switch the picture mode accordingly? I can't tell you how many times I find my wife and/or kids watching something HDR in SDR and something SDR in HDR because they haven't a clue nor give a hoot how to change from one dynamic range to another. It's not unlike the Sony UHD players making you go into the menu to choose Dolby Vision. WTF? It's just dumb, plain and simple. I will send anyone who can convince me otherwise $1.00 via Venmo. Cheers.


I have the 6050ub europe version tw-9400 and it auto switches from hdr to sdr and vice versa perfectly fine.. What am i missing? I even think my projector has an auto setting for it.. Or do you mean it doesnt load the calibration profile for it? Because that i have to do manually..


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## jwc1969

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I have the 6050ub europe version tw-9400 and it auto switches from hdr to sdr and vice versa perfectly fine.. What am i missing? I even think my projector has an auto setting for it.. Or do you mean it doesnt load the calibration profile for it? Because that i have to do manually..


You, sir, are 100% right and I stand corrected. It indeed senses HDR. It's the calibration profile as you mentioned that doesn't carry over. So if, say, my SDR iris is set to -8 and lamp to Eco, that will remain the way it is in HDR unless I click on my saved profile, which, in my case, opens the iris to 0 and bumps the lamp to the middle setting. So a pain in the buttocks still, but not as egregious as I said in my opening post. Apologies! But still...come on Epson, make it easier for us!


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## itsmejson

Looking to pick up my first projector and was set on a 5050 but wanted to get thoughts.

Setting price aside and this was your 1st projector would you go with the 5050up or LS11000?

Considering the 5050ub is older the LS11000 would future proof better and not having to worry about changing bulbs?


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## fredworld

itsmejson said:


> Looking to pick up my first projector and was set on a 5050 but wanted to get thoughts.
> 
> Setting price aside and this was your 1st projector would you go with the 5050up or LS11000?
> 
> Considering the 5050ub is older the LS11000 would future proof better and not having to worry about changing bulbs?


I'd buy my 5050UB again despite the availability of other models. Although I don't watch 3D that often, I'm not ready to give it up. Changing a bulb takes 2-3 minutes, a total non-issue.
I'm pretty sure there are comparisons with the 11000 somewhere on the AVSforums if you search.


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## samlooker

Again a horizontal lens shift question. For a 120' screen at 14' I saw this:

"At this throw distance, with a centered image, the projected image can be shifted an additional *56″* up from the top, *56″* down from the bottom, *49″* over from the left, and *49″* over from the right edge of the image using the projector's lens shift capability. "

Questions: would the 49'' described above measured from the center of the screen, or from the left/right edge of the screen? Would this cost me image quality of any sort?

Thanks!


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

jwc1969 said:


> You, sir, are 100% right and I stand corrected. It indeed senses HDR. It's the calibration profile as you mentioned that doesn't carry over. So if, say, my SDR iris is set to -8 and lamp to Eco, that will remain the way it is in HDR unless I click on my saved profile, which, in my case, opens the iris to 0 and bumps the lamp to the middle setting. So a pain in the buttocks still, but not as egregious as I said in my opening post. Apologies! But still...come on Epson, make it easier for us!


Not sure how that would work to be honest.. You would have to be able to pair a saved profile to a resolution or dynamic range trigger.. I don't really think it is a hassle to manually switch though,it is literally a 1 or 2 button push.. They could have made some quick buttons that were assignable so you could just assign 4k hdr to 1 button and 1080p sdr to a second button like the lens memory or like my Marantz has.. It has 4 quick memory buttons for different audio and input settings.


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## hms17B

samlooker said:


> Again a horizontal lens shift question. For a 120' screen at 14' I saw this:
> 
> "At this throw distance, with a centered image, the projected image can be shifted an additional *56″* up from the top, *56″* down from the bottom, *49″* over from the left, and *49″* over from the right edge of the image using the projector's lens shift capability. "
> 
> Questions: would the 49'' described above measured from the center of the screen, or from the left/right edge of the screen? Would this cost me image quality of any sort?
> 
> Thanks!


You can measure anywhere in the image. That point in the image can move up to 49" left or right. So the center moves up to 49" either way, and likewise the right and left edges - measure whatever point is easiest. I'm using quite a bit of the vertical shift without any image degradation, and I suspect that horizontal shift wouldn't be much different.


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## rekbones

samlooker said:


> Again a horizontal lens shift question. For a 120' screen at 14' I saw this:
> 
> "At this throw distance, with a centered image, the projected image can be shifted an additional *56″* up from the top, *56″* down from the bottom, *49″* over from the left, and *49″* over from the right edge of the image using the projector's lens shift capability. "
> 
> Questions: would the 49'' described above measured from the center of the screen, or from the left/right edge of the screen? Would this cost me image quality of any sort?
> 
> Thanks!


Also you need to understand that the more horizontal shift you use you have less available vertical shift and vice versa.


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## jaredmwright

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Not sure how that would work to be honest.. You would have to be able to pair a saved profile to a resolution or dynamic range trigger.. I don't really think it is a hassle to manually switch though,it is literally a 1 or 2 button push.. They could have made some quick buttons that were assignable so you could just assign 4k hdr to 1 button and 1080p sdr to a second button like the lens memory or like my Marantz has.. It has 4 quick memory buttons for different audio and input settings.


This is the reason to invest in a home grown Videoprocessor.org with MadVR or commercial version. You will thank me later, trust me. It's like upgrading your projector to one twice as capable or more. 

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


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## markymiles

jaredmwright said:


> This is the reason to invest in a home grown Videoprocessor.org with MadVR or commercial version. You will thank me later, trust me. It's like upgrading your projector to one twice as capable or more.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


Wouldn't you still need to switch memories between SDR and DTM HDR assuming you are still using WCG? Videoprocessor would only benefit this situation if you used DTM HDR in Rec709 which misses the point a little.


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## PixelPusher15

markymiles said:


> Wouldn't you still need to switch memories between SDR and DTM HDR assuming you are still using WCG? Videoprocessor would only benefit this situation if you used DTM HDR in Rec709 which misses the point a little.


That’s the wonderful thing about madVR. You can use the same mode for everything. That’s assuming you’re ok with the same level of brightness for everything. I use Natural or Dynamic calibrated for SDR BT2020. MadVR sends everything on that format. SDR 709 gets mapped correctly toward it and so does HDR 2020.


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## markymiles

PixelPusher15 said:


> That’s the wonderful thing about madVR. You can use the same mode for everything. That’s assuming you’re ok with the same level of brightness for everything. I use Natural or Dynamic calibrated for SDR BT2020. MadVR sends everything on that format. SDR 709 gets mapped correctly toward it and so does HDR 2020.


Yeah I've played with MadVR but I wouldn't be happy with that set up, each to their own though. SDR would be too bright for me if using the same brightness for both formats, plus I can get away with Eco lamp for SDR so it's quieter too. So I would still use the memories not that it's particularly difficult , just pressing one button on the Harmony to switch.


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## jaredmwright

markymiles said:


> Yeah I've played with MadVR but I wouldn't be happy with that set up, each to their own though. SDR would be too bright for me if using the same brightness for both formats, plus I can get away with Eco lamp for SDR so it's quieter too. So I would still use the memories not that it's particularly difficult , just pressing one button on the Harmony to switch.


I don't experience what you are describing. Since the video is mapped to SDR by MadVR, it avoids the need to do what you are describing and properly maps the brightness and colors as needed based on the source being SDR, HDR. Dolby vision etc...Maybe your configuration with MadVR and Videoprocessor wasn't calibrated and setup properly. There is a reason these cost so much to purchase commercially, they provide outstanding results.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## grayson

I have a dedicated cinema room. Projected onto a 97 inch diagonal 0.8 gain screen. I'm using digital cinema and dynamic. My issue is when viewing movies or TV shows from cable or streaming dark scenes with motion are a bit of a blurred mess. To the point where it's difficult to make out what's happening. Stranger things, Black phone and the Batman are a few examples. 4k Blu ray is fine though. Are there any settings that could improve it?


----------



## DeChris86

Hey guys,

so i had the time to tweek settings on my UB6050 and my thought so far are (without additional filter):

- Best picture mode to me is "dynamic" by now, used in middle power (more brightness) or eco power mode.
In eco mode there is a bright-dark and back "Pump" effect sometimes.
Reason for dynamic is the brightness in this and functional auto-iris but only works in complete black screens.. it gets pitch black then but is somehow and sometimes to slow to open up again when there is brightness ( Just try intro from "See" on apple tv+)..dont see it work otherwise. Is that a 'normal thing'? Shouldn't it lower the blacks?(up to 30k, 40k contrast). It seems to only boost bright parts in picture..

In this preset if eco is enabled the manual iris is available..black levels still don't get a lot darker with it until turned down to min. (-20) it's almost "good" then. But as my wife states "It's way too dim/dark" and admittedly it really isn't bright anymore and that's what the epsons are kinda "made for" : the light output. Well, that's a pitty and another compromise..
I tried digital cinema first( too dark), cinema (looks quiet good with my settings but bit dim) and dynamic (best?).
Power modes: Only eco and medium usable, high mode only if used in another room.
Sharpness and Detail: Good overall picture and ALMOST no difference in details to my last Sony 295. In few scenes -if you know them really good- you know that there was more detail on the Sony.
But sharpness is even a bit better thanks to Epsons really good lens(es)!
- Black Level in comparison: Saw a JVC X5900 and in really dark movies i couldn't see much of a difference.. maybe X7900 is a whole new league there (40k vs 130k contrast).
The next will be "natural" which a lot of people prefer.
All done not only by my taste but also with custom Gammacurves, colours and settings (for example from 'simple Home cinema'). So in conclusion i think i nearly maxed it out.. Hoping for a filter to boost things and that's it. It's not gonna be "good" but somehow "okay" for keepin' it two years and maybe upgrade then.
Or getting a screen which boost the black levels?

We'll see.
Cheers 🎥


----------



## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> so i had the time to tweek settings on my UB6050 and my thought so far are (without additional filter):
> 
> - Best picture mode to me is "dynamic" by now, used in middle power (more brightness) or eco power mode.
> In eco mode there is a bright-dark and back "Pump" effect sometimes.
> Reason for dynamic is the brightness in this and functional auto-iris but only works in complete black screens.. it gets pitch black then but is somehow and sometimes to slow to open up again when there is brightness ( Just try intro from "See" on apple tv+)..dont see it work otherwise. Is that a 'normal thing'? Shouldn't it lower the blacks?(up to 30k, 40k contrast). It seems to only boost bright parts in picture..
> 
> In this preset if eco is enabled the manual iris is available..black levels still don't get a lot darker with it until turned down to min. (-20) it's almost "good" then. But as my wife states "It's way too dim/dark" and admittedly it really isn't bright anymore and that's what the epsons are kinda "made for" : the light output. Well, that's a pitty and another compromise..
> I tried digital cinema first( too dark), cinema (looks quiet good with my settings but bit dim) and dynamic (best?).
> Power modes: Only eco and medium usable, high mode only if used in another room.
> Sharpness and Detail: Good overall picture and ALMOST no difference in details to my last Sony 295. In few scenes -if you know them really good- you know that there was more detail on the Sony.
> But sharpness is even a bit better thanks to Epsons really good lens(es)!
> - Black Level in comparison: Saw a JVC X5900 and in really dark movies i couldn't see much of a difference.. maybe X7900 is a whole new league there (40k vs 130k contrast).
> The next will be "natural" which a lot of people prefer.
> All done not only by my taste but also with custom Gammacurves, colours and settings (for example from 'simple Home cinema'). So in conclusion i think i nearly maxed it out.. Hoping for a filter to boost things and that's it. It's not gonna be "good" but somehow "okay" for keepin' it two years and maybe upgrade then.
> Or getting a screen which boost the black levels?
> 
> We'll see.
> Cheers 🎥


Try the circular polarizer I’ve been messing with. Use that in Natural/Medium, maybe even turn down the iris a tad. I think you’ll be impressed for it being such a cheap trick.


----------



## luisalbertokid

grayson said:


> I have a dedicated cinema room. Projected onto a 97 inch diagonal 0.8 gain screen. I'm using digital cinema and dynamic. My issue is when viewing movies or TV shows from cable or streaming dark scenes with motion are a bit of a blurred mess. To the point where it's difficult to make out what's happening. Stranger things, Black phone and the Batman are a few examples. 4k Blu ray is fine though. Are there any settings that could improve it?


Same problem here, although I have the 5040 (no HDR brightness adjustment). Dark content from streaming services looks bad, I believe because it's low bit rate, too compressed video. Watching 4K blu-rays are fine though. Since I don't have the HDR slider on the 5040 I have 3 Digital Cinema calibrations stored, one with a custom gamma that gives the best black/brightness/contrast (usually too dark for streaming) and also with gamma set to +1 and +2. I choose the calibration based on the content I'm watching.


----------



## luisalbertokid

DeChris86 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> so i had the time to tweek settings on my UB6050 and my thought so far are (without additional filter):
> 
> - Best picture mode to me is "dynamic" by now, used in middle power (more brightness) or eco power mode.
> In eco mode there is a bright-dark and back "Pump" effect sometimes.
> Reason for dynamic is the brightness in this and functional auto-iris but only works in complete black screens.. it gets pitch black then but is somehow and sometimes to slow to open up again when there is brightness ( Just try intro from "See" on apple tv+)..dont see it work otherwise. Is that a 'normal thing'? Shouldn't it lower the blacks?(up to 30k, 40k contrast). It seems to only boost bright parts in picture..
> 
> In this preset if eco is enabled the manual iris is available..black levels still don't get a lot darker with it until turned down to min. (-20) it's almost "good" then. But as my wife states "It's way too dim/dark" and admittedly it really isn't bright anymore and that's what the epsons are kinda "made for" : the light output. Well, that's a pitty and another compromise..
> I tried digital cinema first( too dark), cinema (looks quiet good with my settings but bit dim) and dynamic (best?).
> Power modes: Only eco and medium usable, high mode only if used in another room.
> Sharpness and Detail: Good overall picture and ALMOST no difference in details to my last Sony 295. In few scenes -if you know them really good- you know that there was more detail on the Sony.
> But sharpness is even a bit better thanks to Epsons really good lens(es)!
> - Black Level in comparison: Saw a JVC X5900 and in really dark movies i couldn't see much of a difference.. maybe X7900 is a whole new league there (40k vs 130k contrast).
> The next will be "natural" which a lot of people prefer.
> All done not only by my taste but also with custom Gammacurves, colours and settings (for example from 'simple Home cinema'). So in conclusion i think i nearly maxed it out.. Hoping for a filter to boost things and that's it. It's not gonna be "good" but somehow "okay" for keepin' it two years and maybe upgrade then.
> Or getting a screen which boost the black levels?
> 
> We'll see.
> Cheers 🎥


If you enjoy Dynamic be sure to check this: Epson TW9400 / TW8400 / UB6050 / UB5050 – Ultimate Dynamic Calibration


----------



## luisalbertokid

jaredmwright said:


> I don't experience what you are describing. Since the video is mapped to SDR by MadVR, it avoids the need to do what you are describing and properly maps the brightness and colors as needed based on the source being SDR, HDR. Dolby vision etc...Maybe your configuration with MadVR and Videoprocessor wasn't calibrated and setup properly. There is a reason these cost so much to purchase commercially, they provide outstanding results.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


Could the same effect be achieved using a Zidoo player that (allegedly) has very good HDR/DV > SDR tone mapping?


----------



## PixelPusher15

luisalbertokid said:


> Same problem here, although I have the 5040 (no HDR brightness adjustment). Dark content from streaming services looks bad, I believe because it's low bit rate, too compressed video. Watching 4K blu-rays are fine though. Since I don't have the HDR slider on the 5040 I have 3 Digital Cinema calibrations stored, one with a custom gamma that gives the best black/brightness/contrast (usually too dark for streaming) and also with gamma set to +1 and +2. I choose the calibration based on the content I'm watching.


Bit rate can lead to some black crush but that's not too common with current stuff. HDR content tone mapped through my madVR HTPC looks fantastic so the data is there. Stranger Things was perfectly fine for me, dark yes, but it looked good. 

4K blu rays on something like the Panasonic players can look good because of the better static HDR tone mapping.


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> Try the circular polarizer I’ve been messing with. Use that in Natural/Medium, maybe even turn down the iris a tad. I think you’ll be impressed for it being such a cheap trick.


Hey,
you mind giving me a link for that exact polarizer?
Thanks in advance!


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> Try the circular polarizer I’ve been messing with. Use that in Natural/Medium, maybe even turn down the iris a tad. I think you’ll be impressed for it being such a cheap trick.


There are some units with more or less "stops" and different prices. Is it this one?:


----------



## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> There are some units with more or less "stops" and different prices. Is it this one?:
> View attachment 3341877


You don’t want that. That’s an ND filter which will just cut the light output. You want a CPL filter. I used a 72mm and I’m now playing with a 62mm. Still trying to find the best size that will allow the lens door to close. I’m not thinking the large 95mm might just go over the entire lens assembly and you could adhere the filter glass right to the black plastic lens housing with some mounting tape. This is the filter 
K&F Concept 95mm Circular Polarizers Filter 28 Layer Super Slim HD Multi-Coated Circular Polarizing Filter (CPL) Lens Filter https://a.co/d/8KheT0U


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> You don’t want that. That’s an ND filter which will just cut the light output. You want a CPL filter. I used a 72mm and I’m now playing with a 62mm. Still trying to find the best size that will allow the lens door to close. I’m not thinking the large 95mm might just go over the entire lens assembly and you could adhere the filter glass right to the black plastic lens housing with some mounting tape. This is the filter
> K&F Concept 95mm Circular Polarizers Filter 28 Layer Super Slim HD Multi-Coated Circular Polarizing Filter (CPL) Lens Filter https://a.co/d/8KheT0U


Okay, hmm then what size I should take here?
And you guys, you say your unit of 6050 can get as deep blacks as shown for example in this review (projectorreviews.com)? Cause mine really can't, no matter which picture mode 😤:


----------



## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> Okay, hmm then what size I should take here?
> And you guys, you say your unit of 6050 can get as deep blacks as shown for example in this review (projectorreviews.com)? Cause mine really can't, no matter which picture mode 😤:


I’m honestly not sure on size right now. I’d probably do 67mm or 95mm but make sure you can return it easily!

Don’t ever use photos as a baseline for what it should look like, whether on a review site or especially here on AVS. Cameras with auto exposure will make “blacks” look actually black. Even if they don’t it’s hard to convey what the viewer is really seeing when looking at a picture on a screen taken with a camera of a screen.


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Okay, hmm then what size I should take here?
> And you guys, you say your unit of 6050 can get as deep blacks as shown for example in this review (projectorreviews.com)? Cause mine really can't, no matter which picture mode 😤:





PixelPusher15 said:


> I’m honestly not sure on size right now. I’d probably do 67mm or 95mm but make sure you can return it easily!
> 
> Don’t ever use photos as a baseline for what it should look like, whether on a review site or especially here on AVS. Cameras with auto exposure will make “blacks” look actually black. Even if they don’t it’s hard to convey what the viewer is really seeing when looking at a picture on a screen taken with a camera of a screen.


Those screen shots are never accurate, just as PP says. I have a 5050 and no way does it ever look like those screenshots. Plus, people often try to show how good the blacks are by providing an image with both black and bright in it. To see just how dark a projector can get you have to show an image of a pure black frame like the 0% window on the Spears and Munsil test disc. You can get that pattern to display almost true black by using lots of iris, and it can look amazing. But just advance to the next pattern in the set, a 5% window, and that wonderful blackness disappears - on the 0%, the iris can close all the way down letting no light thru, but to be able to see any the 5% at all the iris has to open up some and the black background lightens up as well. Dynamic mode can make the 0% pattern the darkest, but the 5% is hardly any different between Dynamic and Natural or Digital Cinema that I can see.


----------



## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> Those screen shots are never accurate, just as PP says. I have a 5050 and no way does it ever look like those screenshots. Plus, people often try to show how good the blacks are by providing an image with both black and bright in it. To see just how dark a projector can get you have to show an image of a pure black frame like the 0% window on the Spears and Munsil test disc. You can get that pattern to display almost true black by using lots of iris, and it can look amazing. But just advance to the next pattern in the set, a 5% window, and that wonderful blackness disappears - on the 0%, the iris can close all the way down letting no light thru, but to be able to see any the 5% at all the iris has to open up some and the black background lightens up as well. Dynamic mode can make the 0% pattern the darkest, but the 5% is hardly any different between Dynamic and Natural or Digital Cinema that I can see.


PLUS: As even my wife recognizes:
When dynamic mode enabled and auto iris is activated oftentimes iris fully closed but doesn't open up "enough" again and that makes a dim picture for whole scenes until it stabilizes. Just look Rings of Power episode 6 with that settings and in the beginning the hand on the ground is very dark.
I got no player just a ps4 pro to maybe insert testdiscs and try out. I'll get God of War Ragnarök on release and give it a try on ub6050 then.
Still i really can't see why users or reviewers attest 'very good black levels" (+ Videos telling you'll have a hard time figuring out which projector it is vs JVC N5)..unless you watch in brighter surrounding in living room or any backlight that improve PERCEIVED contrast/blackfloor.

Am I alone with the feeling that the auto-iris really just works on 'dynamic'? Other modes there is almost no difference to off, maybe bit brighter/higher contrast but no influence in terms of darker blacks, no full closing on black screen either? If so that's sad cause if it did work on, let's say "Cinema" that would be good. I calibrated dynamic and cinema so far. Trying to max out digital cinema and natural next🎥


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> PLUS: As even my wife recognizes:
> When dynamic mode enabled and auto iris is activated oftentimes iris fully closed but doesn't open up "enough" again and that makes a dim picture for whole scenes until it stabilizes. Just look Rings of Power episode 6 with that settings and in the beginning the hand on the ground is very dark.
> I got no player just a ps4 pro to maybe insert testdiscs and try out. I'll get God of War Ragnarök on release and give it a try on ub6050 then.
> Still i really can't see why users or reviewers attest 'very good black levels" (+ Videos telling you'll have a hard time figuring out which projector it is vs JVC N5)..unless you watch in brighter surrounding in living room or any backlight that improve PERCEIVED contrast/blackfloor.
> 
> Am I alone with the feeling that the auto-iris really just works on 'dynamic'? Other modes there is almost no difference to off, maybe bit brighter/higher contrast but no influence in terms of darker blacks, no full closing on black screen either? If so that's sad cause if it did work on, let's say "Cinema" that would be good. I calibrated dynamic and cinema so far. Trying to max out digital cinema and natural next🎥


That's a problem I find with Dynamic, iris not opening up enough when going from full black to a dim scene. Sometimes it actually cuts off half the image. On all but full black frames, I find little benefit to Dynamic, it looks pretty much like the other modes, except for its ghastly corpse-like green pallor. I do find the iris to be of benefit, though. Without it, black is light enough that I'd toss the whole thing out the window if I had to live with it that way.


----------



## hms17B

Perhaps someone can inform me if I'm missing something here. It seems that to get these units to show black as dark as possible, there's only one control that I can see that does that - Brightness. I'm not talking about other factors yet, just the ability of the LCD panels to block light. Using the Spears and Munsil Brightness pattern, you can see black and below black. If you set Brightness down to where black matches below black, that is as dark as you can go. No other settings can take it lower. Grayscale, color, gamma, their low ends don't go down. You can set the low end of the gamma curve below the line but that makes no difference - with the low gamma at the line you can make black lighter by going above the line but the line point is the lowest for black.

To the above, you can add the iris, which can make black darker, but only because it dims the whole image. Which isn't a true solution, but it helps enough to make dark images watchable. Once the iris has been employed, the projector is showing black as dark as it possibly can and there is nothing more that can be done, except by changing things external to the projector itself.

So, to go further in getting darker black, one can project a larger image which spreads out the light, but again that makes everything darker, including bright white. Projecting over a greater distance will also lose more light due to diffusion in the air, but again it's the entire range that's dimmed. Adding some sort of filter again is an overall dimming. Likewise a darker screen material.

Treating the room to make surfaces dark is good but it does not make black darker. When the image is dark itself, there's not enough light in it to reflect off the walls and ceiling. That can be seen, as a full black image is lighter than the black walls and ceiling and floor.

Sounds like I'm complaining, but not really. When I got a 5050 after over ten years with my previous Sanyo, I had hoped that black performance would have progressed more than it did. Unfortunately, it did not. Except maybe in the high-end makes/models, which most of us probably can't afford.


----------



## DeChris86

Just saw a JVC DLA-X5900 which is 40000:1 (where our UB6050 is about 5000:1) . It had 1500h on lamp, lumagen videoprocessor connected and yea.. it already looked dim, not as sharp as Epson, looked like full HD and the important thing to me:
The blacks weren't even much deeper on dark scenes! So in order (in the words of lucifer): 'to get what i desire' i need to go even higher on Contrast ratio. JVC N(P)5 has same 40K contrast 😧
And as higher JVC are unreachable to me, only one would be the X7900?
Will try the CLR Filter aswell. 
A"Contrast boosting" screen would be cheaper than a new high end projector (NZ8). I didn' t buy such a screen because of possible side effects and it's said that when your room is dark with no light bouncing then white 1.0 gain is the way to go.
Well, but obviously they don't know me, the black level nitpicker 🤪😅


----------



## DeChris86

Tried 'natural' and 'digital cinema' and i just think 'Cinema" works best for me. Custom Gamma, colour offsets down to 47, brightness bit boosted on 52. Even pushed/opened up the manual iris cause i don't see better black levels by clamping it down. Picture just gets darker and dimmed. The lowest blacks of the ub6050 in my room and with standard white screen 1.0 are middle/dark greys..period.
Unless there is a filter or grey screen.

Auto Iris is on, so it darkens a bit when there is blackout for longer time. Doesn't go 'full black' just like dynamic picture mode but iris maybe doesn't get "stuck" on the position, which happens as i mentioned earlier above.
Option for more brightness if needed is power set to medium.


----------



## markymiles

Yeah not a fan of the dynamic iris when used with dynamic. As has been said it takes too long to open up once closed down. Good example is 1917 you get full black in the first few seconds then some stuff out of black comes on including the film title 1917 in white on Black. That's really dim with dynamic. Fine with any of the other modes where the dynamic iris doesn't seem to do a great deal.


----------



## DeChris86

I completely love the full black screen but if it doesn't open up again you miss details and brightness until the scenes are bright enough and after a while, maybe to much of a sacrifice for the "satisfying" few black seconds..
Dynamic(auto) iris works now on cinema mode aswell but i swear it didn't before. So there has to be some kind of "initialising" or reset to be done to make use of it in other modes than dynamic...projector was turned off in between so...


----------



## DeChris86

So i think i got it maxed out for my taste, maybe greyscale fixing a bit.
Next is the filter(s) and if i'm not happy i'll look for high contrast screen ( 800-1500€).


----------



## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> So i think i got it maxed out for my taste, maybe greyscale fixing a bit.
> Next is the filter(s) and if i'm not happy i'll look for high contrast screen ( 800-1500€).


Unless you have ambient light or a poorly treated room a screen ain’t gonna do a thing to the projectors native contrast. The most it will do is dim the image. Try the filter.


----------



## DeChris86

These contrast screens can have same gain 1.0 or lower or even higher but then image will look A: Too dark on snow scenes or brighter parts of image or side effects occur on higher gain.
Won't the filter do the same (dimming/lowering light output)? You say they only work in non optimized rooms at all? Hmm, ye let's try the filter first, it's a BIT cheaper and easier to install aswell ☺
As i can tell, there are not zero but minor reflections on front left, right wall and ceiling. I keep track of the cinemascope bars and there is almost no brightening
even on brighter images. And as we discussed in very dark horror scenes room doesn't influence lowest blacks. I could do a black repainting (2nd) or even work with black fabric but as i see it, it's not needed until a much higher contrast/blackfloor projector,right?
I'll Take some pictures of my room to show you guys.

Question:
Do you use 16:9 or 21:9 Screen?
I'm on 16:9 and when i zoom to have 21:9 movies with smaller cinemascope bars and save it, it won't be near that position again if i press lens 2 . It's going to have a big bar down somehow. I gotta readjust again everytime. You experienced same thing?


----------



## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> These contrast screens can have same gain 1.0 or lower or even higher but then image will look A: Too dark on snow scenes or brighter parts of image or side effects occur on higher gain.
> Won't the filter do the same (dimming/lowering light output)? You say they only work in non optimized rooms at all? Hmm, ye let's try the filter first, it's a BIT cheaper and easier to install aswell ☺
> As i can tell, there are not zero but minor reflections on front left, right wall and ceiling. I keep track of the cinemascope bars and there is almost no brightening
> even on brighter images. And as we discussed in very dark horror scenes room doesn't influence lowest blacks. I could do a black repainting (2nd) or even work with black fabric but as i see it, it's not needed until a much higher contrast/blackfloor projector,right?
> I'll Take some pictures of my room to show you guys.
> 
> Question:
> Do you use 16:9 or 21:9 Screen?
> I'm on 16:9 and when i zoom to have 21:9 movies with smaller cinemascope bars and save it, it won't be near that position again if i press lens 2 . It's going to have a big bar down somehow. I gotta readjust again everytime. You experienced same thing?


I’m not sure what high contrast screen you are talking about but there isn’t a single screen out there that can alter the native contrast ratio of a projector. The best they can do is maintain it by rejecting ambient light. That ambient light can come from external sources, like lamps, windows, and other electronics, or from the projector’s own light reflecting off the screen, off the walls/room objects and back onto the screen. Yes, there are some with true gain ratings over 1.0. But these have retro reflective additives that can cause shimmer, sparkle, and hot spotting. If your room isn’t a velvet pit then these screens will help with _infra-scene_ contrast. But, on those super dark horror films? No. They won’t do squat. (That’s assuming you don’t have external ambient light)

The filter doesn’t just block light, it blocks scattered polarized light. Not all the light is polarized coming through the lens so therefore it increases _native_ contrast. For example, without the filter and a peak white of 70 nits I get a black floor reading of .0155. With the filter and a peak white of 70 nits I get a black floor reading of .0125. The black floor is 20% darker and white is the same.


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> Unless you have ambient light or a poorly treated room a screen ain’t gonna do a thing to the projectors native contrast. The most it will do is dim the image. Try the filter.


So here are some impressions of our little home cinema. room hasn't been treated much yet in terms of acoustic and light reflexions, i admit.
There is the matt black painting on walls and ceiling (we know resulting in anthracite) and some absorbers in the front, aswell as the black curtain in the back, black door, speakers with black velvet on it and so on:


----------



## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> So here are some impressions of our little home cinema. room hasn't been treated much yet in terms of acoustic and light reflexions, i admit.
> There is the matt black painting on walls and ceiling (we know resulting in anthracite) and some absorbers in the front, aswell as the black curtain in the back, black door, speakers with black velvet on it and so on:


Cool looking room. Do you watch with any of that lighting or the Marvel sign on?


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> Cool looking room. Do you watch with any of that lighting or the Marvel sign on?


Thanks man 🙂
No, not at all. It's all turned off, if there are really dark scenes or iris closed or ub6050 warms up, it's pitch black cave:


----------



## luisalbertokid

hms17B said:


> Perhaps someone can inform me if I'm missing something here. It seems that to get these units to show black as dark as possible, there's only one control that I can see that does that - Brightness. I'm not talking about other factors yet, just the ability of the LCD panels to block light. Using the Spears and Munsil Brightness pattern, you can see black and below black. If you set Brightness down to where black matches below black, that is as dark as you can go. No other settings can take it lower. Grayscale, color, gamma, their low ends don't go down. You can set the low end of the gamma curve below the line but that makes no difference - with the low gamma at the line you can make black lighter by going above the line but the line point is the lowest for black.
> 
> To the above, you can add the iris, which can make black darker, but only because it dims the whole image. Which isn't a true solution, but it helps enough to make dark images watchable. Once the iris has been employed, the projector is showing black as dark as it possibly can and there is nothing more that can be done, except by changing things external to the projector itself.
> 
> So, to go further in getting darker black, one can project a larger image which spreads out the light, but again that makes everything darker, including bright white. Projecting over a greater distance will also lose more light due to diffusion in the air, but again it's the entire range that's dimmed. Adding some sort of filter again is an overall dimming. Likewise a darker screen material.
> 
> Treating the room to make surfaces dark is good but it does not make black darker. When the image is dark itself, there's not enough light in it to reflect off the walls and ceiling. That can be seen, as a full black image is lighter than the black walls and ceiling and floor.
> 
> Sounds like I'm complaining, but not really. When I got a 5050 after over ten years with my previous Sanyo, I had hoped that black performance would have progressed more than it did. Unfortunately, it did not. Except maybe in the high-end makes/models, which most of us probably can't afford.


The last thing I would use to darken blacks is the brightness control, since lowering it significantly dims the entire image. I would first close the iris (you can go from 0 to -20 although it's usually not recommended to go below -18). Then you can play with gamma (-1 or -2 or a custom gamma that gives the best blacks and whites - that's very doable but you must know how to calibrate). Lowering RGB offsets also helps, and of course a thoroughly RGBCYM calibration also helps a lot to achieve the best blacks/whites/contrast (RGBCYM is not only about colors). If any of this isn't enough for you then, well, lower the brightness 😉


----------



## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> Thanks man 🙂
> No, not at all. It's all turned off, if there are really dark scenes or iris closed or ub6050 warms up, it's pitch black cave:


When the 6050 is warming up it is basically like turning the bulb down. Its just not to full brightness yet.

Your room doesn't need a different screen, it needs a different projector haha.

There's so much talk in here recently about trying to make the blacks blacker on the 5050/6050. Other than the filter I've been testing, there just isn't a way to do it other than what we've gone over many times.

I'll list them out for those that care

Use the manual iris
Use a higher power mode to compensate for light output loss

If HDR, use better HDR tone mapping or optimize your settings for HDR better. Getting it properly calibrated can help
If SDR, again getting it calibrated can help with shadow detail. Crushed blacks will make the black floor look worse
Use dynamic color mode so you can utilize the more aggressive dynamic iris. This has significant side effects
Do not use the brightness control. This has an optimum setting and should be set with the brightness plunge test pattern...then never adjusted.
Lastly, use a circular polarizer combined with a lower manual iris setting and high lamp mode. This is the only way I have been able to find to actually *double* the native contrast.


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> I completely love the full black screen but if it doesn't open up again you miss details and brightness until the scenes are bright enough and after a while, maybe to much of a sacrifice for the "satisfying" few black seconds..
> Dynamic(auto) iris works now on cinema mode aswell but i swear it didn't before. So there has to be some kind of "initialising" or reset to be done to make use of it in other modes than dynamic...projector was turned off in between so...


I see the same with Dynamic. A good reason to scrap Dynamic and stick to the other modes. I'm done with Dynamic.


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Thanks man 🙂
> No, not at all. It's all turned off, if there are really dark scenes or iris closed or ub6050 warms up, it's pitch black cave:


Now that looks like an accurate shot of a black screen image. Most posted images do not show black as it actually looks in person. Exactly what I see, screen black is lighter than room blackness. On really dark scenes is where it's most noticeable.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> Now that looks like an accurate shot of a black screen image. Most posted images do not show black as it actually looks in person. Exactly what I see, screen black is lighter than room blackness. On really dark scenes is where it's most noticeable.



















here ya go. This is just straight “black” on the 6050/5050 and then it compared to JVC. The JVCs black bars are visible in person though.


----------



## hms17B

luisalbertokid said:


> The last thing I would use to darken blacks is the brightness control, since lowering it significantly dims the entire image. I would first close the iris (you can go from 0 to -20 although it's usually not recommended to go below -18). Then you can play with gamma (-1 or -2 or a custom gamma that gives the best blacks and whites - that's very doable but you must know how to calibrate). Lowering RGB offsets also helps, and of course a thoroughly RGBCYM calibration also helps a lot to achieve the best blacks/whites/contrast (RGBCYM is not only about colors). If any of this isn't enough for you then, well, lower the brightness 😉


Right, I set Brightness to the midpoint of the control range or within a point of it. But turning it up is no good at all as it washes things out. I see some poeple setting Brightness up and that never looks good to me. Playing with grayscale or color controls changes balance but black never gets any darker.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> View attachment 3342716
> 
> View attachment 3342717
> 
> here ya go. This is just straight “black” on the 6050/5050 and then it compared to JVC. The JVCs black bars are visible in person though.


The comparison shot is Epson on the left, JVC on the right, right? Definite difference, but the Epson isn't bad. I couldn't justify the price difference, though. I wish reviews and forum posts would show screenshots like this more often.


----------



## samlooker

I am considering buying chief mount for the 5050. I have a rather strict situation that I need the top of the projector to be 7'' from the ceiling. So I will be buying below chief parts separately, and the ceiling plate does not even come with screws that requires me a trip to home depot, am I doing this right?
Chief mount
Extender
Ceiling plate

Would above give me 7'' between ceiling and top of the projector? What kind of screws I should be buying for the ceiling plate for wood stud ceiling?
Thanks!


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> View attachment 3342716
> 
> View attachment 3342717
> 
> here ya go. This is just straight “black” on the 6050/5050 and then it compared to JVC. The JVCs black bars are visible in person though.


Yeah, hmm.. that's approximately what i get in terms of black levels. If i had known that before, i better went for JVC X7900, even though it was pricy. But ye, even then it's not "perfect" ..it never is 😅


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> View attachment 3342716
> 
> View attachment 3342717
> 
> here ya go. This is just straight “black” on the 6050/5050 and then it compared to JVC. The JVCs black bars are visible in person though.


What did you use for a test image on the straight black pic?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> What did you use for a test image on the straight black pic?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That was during a calibration with HCFR so a black test pattern. 

But i found this for you


----------



## DeChris86

Got 'Lens 2' set to 21:9 with almost no cinemascope bars on my 16:9 screen.
Topgun Maverick looked pretty good (Cinema mode, power: medium, custom gamma, colors, iris opened, dynamic iris: high speed, HDR Slider 4 👍
With this settings HDR Slider on Position 3-4.. 5 already get's too dark i find.
Next is the CLR Filter..and that's when i need to rethink my settings i assume.


----------



## NxNW

Scattered light is highly polarized (look at different parts of a clear blue sky while wearing polarized sunglasses and observe the effect). So if there is any scattered light coming out of the projector, using a polarizing filter to block it does seem like genius. But there must be _some_ reason Epson doesn't do this already- I suspect it breaks 3D. Has anyone tested how well 3D glasses work with this filter in place?


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> @biglen The cheapest madVR rig is $8k
> madVR Envy Pro video processor | Audio Advice


Today I was cc'd on an email from MadVR that contained a request to someone to assist me with my Envy request. Hmmm... 11 days for someone to tell someone else to assist a potential customer. 🤨


----------



## luisalbertokid

fredworld said:


> Today I was cc'd on an email from MadVR that contained a request to someone to assist me with my Envy request. Hmmm... 11 days for someone to tell someone else to assist a potential customer. 🤨


I'm sorry to ask you but since an Envy processor costs around U$ 14K (or at least that's what I heard in a CEDIA 22 video) wouldn't it be better to get a JVC NZ7 which is around U$ 10K and allegedly has a great HDR tone mapping? I'm sure the Envy must be amazing but...


----------



## fredworld

luisalbertokid said:


> I'm sorry to ask you but since an Envy processor costs around U$ 14K (or at least that's what I heard in a CEDIA 22 video) wouldn't it be better to get a JVC NZ7 which is around U$ 10K and allegedly has a great HDR tone mapping? I'm sure the Envy must be amazing but...


Thanks for asking. I'll be speaking with an Envy rep next week. He's lining me up for an online real time demo, will go over setup and pricing. I'm seeing prices all over the map. The two price points you mentioned are not doable. Nor is a JVC which is too large and heavy for my mount and 7' ceiling (which I considered several years ago before buying my Epson).
Having said all that, there is little more that I desire from my Epson. The main compromise that I've come to grips with is the judder but it's one of those things I accept considering the price point of the 5050. As I've said in previous posts, my screen size is probably among the smallest, if not THE smallest on these forums for a projection system. I feel I'm getting just about everything I can get out of the 5050 with near set and forget image settings, lens memory reliability, good balance for black levels and contrast, color saturation, sharpness, light output, etc. Consequently, I'm loathe to drop a lot of change on what might be an investment with substantial diminished return on image quality. I fully suspect that the Envy yields much more appreciable benefits for larger screens than my 94" wide 2.35:1(82" diagonal in 16:9) screen but I'm open to testing the waters after reading so many favorable posts.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Thanks for asking. I'll be speaking with an Envy rep next week. He's lining me up for an online real time demo, will go over setup and pricing. I'm seeing prices all over the map. The two price points you mentioned are not doable. Nor is a JVC which is too large and heavy for my mount and 7' ceiling (which I considered several years ago before buying my Epson).
> Having said all that, there is little more that I desire from my Epson. The main compromise that I've come to grips with is the judder but it's one of those things I accept considering the price point of the 5050. As I've said in previous posts, my screen size is probably among the smallest, if not THE smallest on these forums for a projection system. I feel I'm getting just about everything I can get out of the 5050 with near set and forget image settings, lens memory reliability, good balance for black levels and contrast, color saturation, sharpness, light output, etc. Consequently, I'm loathe to drop a lot of change on what might be an investment with substantial diminished return on image quality. I fully suspect that the Envy yields much more appreciable benefits for larger screens than my 94" wide 2.35:1(82" diagonal in 16:9) screen but I'm open to testing the waters after reading so many favorable posts.


I thought of you when testing my filter. You really do have a smaller screen than most which makes you a prime candidate for throwing some brightness out the window in a trade for contrast. With an iris setting of -10 I'm able to get 8100:1 contrast and 1300 lumens in High Lamp Natural. I suspect you could achieve at least 9,000:1 and the 850 lumens you need. Actually, looking back at some notes I did achieve 9,200:1 and 900 lumens with the iris closed and in Natural High Lamp. The new laser Sonys are measuring about that. I also believe with how this filter works it is also increasing dynamic contrast. 

Honestly, I think you should try it out. Not that this is a replacement for the Envy, but you can achieve a level of contrast you wouldn't have thought possible before with the 5050.


----------



## luisalbertokid

fredworld said:


> Thanks for asking. I'll be speaking with an Envy rep next week. He's lining me up for an online real time demo, will go over setup and pricing. I'm seeing prices all over the map. The two price points you mentioned are not doable. Nor is a JVC which is too large and heavy for my mount and 7' ceiling (which I considered several years ago before buying my Epson).
> Having said all that, there is little more that I desire from my Epson. The main compromise that I've come to grips with is the judder but it's one of those things I accept considering the price point of the 5050. As I've said in previous posts, my screen size is probably among the smallest, if not THE smallest on these forums for a projection system. I feel I'm getting just about everything I can get out of the 5050 with near set and forget image settings, lens memory reliability, good balance for black levels and contrast, color saturation, sharpness, light output, etc. Consequently, I'm loathe to drop a lot of change on what might be an investment with substantial diminished return on image quality. I fully suspect that the Envy yields much more appreciable benefits for larger screens than my 94" wide 2.35:1(82" diagonal in 16:9) screen but I'm open to testing the waters after reading so many favorable posts.


Indeed you have a small screen for ht standards. I’ve seen lots of videos from CEDIA 22 demoing some new large screens panels like OLED reaching up to 100”. Price varies but I’ve seen models around the same value as the Envy and maybe some of them may have DTM.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> I thought of you when testing my filter. You really do have a smaller screen than most which makes you a prime candidate for throwing some brightness out the window in a trade for contrast. With an iris setting of -10 I'm able to get 8100:1 contrast and 1300 lumens in High Lamp Natural. I suspect you could achieve at least 9,000:1 and the 850 lumens you need. Actually, looking back at some notes I did achieve 9,200:1 and 900 lumens with the iris closed and in Natural High Lamp. The new laser Sonys are measuring about that. I also believe with how this filter works it is also increasing dynamic contrast.
> 
> Honestly, I think you should try it out. Not that this is a replacement for the Envy, but you can achieve a level of contrast you wouldn't have thought possible before with the 5050.


My Manual Iris setting _is_ -10. Seems to fit nicely into the image balance of my system.


----------



## fredworld

luisalbertokid said:


> Indeed you have a small screen for ht standards. I’ve seen lots of videos from CEDIA 22 demoing some new large screens panels like OLED reaching up to 100”. Price varies but I’ve seen models around the same value as the Envy and maybe some of them may have DTM.


Interesting, but no matter the size of a panel, it'll always be a Constant Image Width display to me that shrinks the intentions of a scope image. Call me snobbish.😤


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> My Manual Iris setting _is_ -10. Seems to fit nicely into the image balance of my system.


What power mode/color mode?

I measured -10 on the 5050 without the filter to come in around 5900:1.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> What power mode/color mode?
> 
> I measured -10 on the 5050 without the filter to come in around 5900:1.


Medium/Natural and subjectively calibrated by eye with the Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark disc.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> Medium/Natural and subjectively calibrated by eye with the Spears and Muncil UHD Benchmark disc.


Oh boy, you like it bright! At min throw and calibrated that's probably going to be over 1300 lumens! That's 46fL/155 nits. 

If you ever wanted to try the filter I'd recommend using it with the iris at 0 with Natural/Medium. You'd end up with the same contrast and light output but a slightly increased color gamut and the black floor wouldn't be as blue.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> Oh boy, you like it bright! At min throw and calibrated that's probably going to be over 1300 lumens! That's 46fL/155 nits.
> 
> If you ever wanted to try the filter I'd recommend using it with the iris at 0 with Natural/Medium. You'd end up with the same contrast and light output but a slightly increased color gamut and the black floor wouldn't be as blue.


My throw distance is 14'. Does that change things?
Never really noticed blue in the black. Deep gray? Charcoal? Yes, but I wouldn't say blue. When you say "blue" I'm thinking what the old technicolor films had in black areas, especially with black hair. I don't see that. But your filter comment has me intrigued.
Off now to watch the 1936 "Dracula's Daughter" on laser disc. 'Tis the season....


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> My throw distance is 14'. Does that change things?
> Never really noticed blue in the black. Deep gray? Charcoal? Yes, but I wouldn't say blue. When you say "blue" I'm thinking what the old technicolor films had in black areas, especially with black hair. I don't see that. But your filter comment has me intrigued.
> Off now to watch the 1936 "Dracula's Daughter" on laser disc. 'Tis the season....











Improving contrast and gamut coverage on an Epson...


Thanks to this thread digging into how JVC pulled off the HC optical block I got thinking about trying a circular polarizer with the two projectors I have here. My Epson 5050 and JVC x790. I'll cut to the chase on the JVC...very minor bump at 0% ADL (10%) and it hurts contrast above 1%. Gamut...




www.avsforum.com





This is what I’ve seen and seen it in all UB Epsons. This is what the filter does. That’s also the full thread documenting my findings.


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> Improving contrast and gamut coverage on an Epson...
> 
> 
> Thanks to this thread digging into how JVC pulled off the HC optical block I got thinking about trying a circular polarizer with the two projectors I have here. My Epson 5050 and JVC x790. I'll cut to the chase on the JVC...very minor bump at 0% ADL (10%) and it hurts contrast above 1%. Gamut...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I’ve seen and seen it in all UB Epsons. This is what the filter does. That’s also the full thread documenting my findings.


Thanks for posting that. I've read through the thread and bookmarked the* filter*. Seems I'd have a bit of a time consuming learning curve if I were to delve into it as deeply as you but I can see spending a few hours with the filter "properly" placed and tweaking my settings.
BTW, my most used memory setting is Gamma -2, Auto Iris ON, Medium Lamp, Natural (Brightness 50, Contrast 21, Color 46, Tint 50). HDR setting 4 (sometimes 3 or 2). Manual Iris -10.


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> Improving contrast and gamut coverage on an Epson...
> 
> 
> Thanks to this thread digging into how JVC pulled off the HC optical block I got thinking about trying a circular polarizer with the two projectors I have here. My Epson 5050 and JVC x790. I'll cut to the chase on the JVC...very minor bump at 0% ADL (10%) and it hurts contrast above 1%. Gamut...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I’ve seen and seen it in all UB Epsons. This is what the filter does. That’s also the full thread documenting my findings.


Thanks a lot for this 'option' 👍
Now, you already found the right size that fits on/in the Epsons? 67mm? I saw, there is even 112mm available.


----------



## DeChris86




----------



## NxNW

oops forgot about that other thread. Apparently no one has reported anything about 3D there either. But even if it doesn't work, I'm guessing most people would think losing 3D is a small price to pay for increasing contrast and lowering black levels without too big a hit to total light output. Once I get my 6050 back (long story) I'm totally trying this!


----------



## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> View attachment 3343850


112mm is interesting because it would fit outside the lens cover so that makes it easier. Changes the value proposition at that point a bit but it’s for sure worth considering


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> 112mm is interesting because it would fit outside the lens cover so that makes it easier. Changes the value proposition at that point a bit but it’s for sure worth considering


Well yeah, so the iris door can close as usual.
It's of course and obviously the priciest one...
There is 10% off so it's 107,99€ and 105mm is 80,99€


----------



## fredworld

PixelPusher15 said:


> 112mm is interesting because it would fit outside the lens cover so that makes it easier. Changes the value proposition at that point a bit but it’s for sure worth considering


How does it attach? I thought you 3D printed a special mount for the 77mm filter.


----------



## DeChris86

Improving contrast and gamut coverage on an Epson...


Gotcha. I'm dying to try this with my 5050 and my MadVR setup. I'm just waiting for a permanent mounting solution that allows the lens cover to close. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Not having means myself for adequate testing, measuring, fabricating, I'm waiting for the final results...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> Unless you have ambient light or a poorly treated room a screen ain’t gonna do a thing to the projectors native contrast. The most it will do is dim the image. Try the filter.


Here are examples of white screen vs grey contrast screen in DARK dedicated Cinema:


----------



## PixelPusher15

DeChris86 said:


> Here are examples of white screen vs grey contrast screen in DARK dedicated Cinema:
> 
> View attachment 3346337
> 
> View attachment 3346336


The camera is lying. A neutral grey screen cuts both highlights and darks equally. That photo makes it look like the highlights maintain the same luminosity....that's physically impossible.

Here's a thread I made 1.5 years ago on this topic and there's some interesting bits in there:








Help me understand grey vs white screen in a bat cave


The common recommendation is to use a white 1.0 gain screen in a completely light-controlled dark painted theater. What I'm not understanding is that in my room, a dark, dark flat grey room with near-black ceiling and graphite carpet, the "black level" of a white screen when blocking half the...




www.avsforum.com





My conclusion was and still is that most people that think they have a bat cave, or describe a bat cave are wrong. If it is any sort of standard flat paint...its not a bat cave and a grey screen can still help with contrast. I started with a white screen, went grey, treated the room more, went white again, treated the room even more and now I'd love a 1.3 gain screen.


----------



## samlooker

Could anyone recommend a good optic htmi cable for this projector?


----------



## fredworld

samlooker said:


> Could anyone recommend a good optic htmi cable for this projector?


I like *MyCableMart*. Excellent customer service. I've many cables from them and none have ever failed.
*Blue Jeans* is also an excellent choice.


----------



## biglen

fredworld said:


> I like *MyCableMart*. Excellent customer service. I've many cables from them and none have ever failed.
> *Blue Jeans* is also an excellent choice.


+1 for Blue Jeans. My 35ft active cable has been rock solid for years. For $53 it's tough to beat. People pay over $100 for long run cables that do the same thing. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## pdstafford

Question, if I use a wide angle lens is it going to create a less quality image? Just about to pull the plug and ran these numbers. Does the brightness level here look okay?


----------



## samlooker

The 5050ub menu says:


> If you are connecting an optical HDMI cable, you must also connect the cable's USB power connector to the Opt.HDMI (300mA) port


Does it mean that I will have to buy an *active optic hdmi* cable that have a usb connector? Seems that some optic cables do not come with a usb connector?


----------



## jaredmwright

pdstafford said:


> Question, if I use a wide angle lens is it going to create a less quality image? Just about to pull the plug and ran these numbers. Does the brightness level here look okay?


I don't see any issue with brightness for this size. I project onto a 175" 1.0 gain screen in a light-controlled dedicated room with plenty of brightness. Your environment may be the biggest consideration. I project from about 18' to my screen. I have 1000hrs on my bulb and it still looks great.

Having said that, I use Videoprocessor and MadVR to maximize image quality, color, contrast and HDR / Dolby Vision content since I wasn't happy with the native HDR capabilities and compromises that needed to be made.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## DeChris86

So what is needed to make the ub6050 'talk' dolby vision and is it an obvious improvement(streaming on apple tv)?


----------



## jaredmwright

DeChris86 said:


> So what is needed to make the ub6050 'talk' dolby vision and is it an obvious improvement(streaming on apple tv)?


HDFury Arcana and yes in my experience it is a step improvement. I have a Videoprocessor in line and without it the impact may is less pronounced but still noticeable and worth it.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## rati

PixelPusher15 said:


> The camera is lying. A neutral grey screen cuts both highlights and darks equally. That photo makes it look like the highlights maintain the same luminosity....that's physically impossible.
> 
> Here's a thread I made 1.5 years ago on this topic and there's some interesting bits in there:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Help me understand grey vs white screen in a bat cave
> 
> 
> The common recommendation is to use a white 1.0 gain screen in a completely light-controlled dark painted theater. What I'm not understanding is that in my room, a dark, dark flat grey room with near-black ceiling and graphite carpet, the "black level" of a white screen when blocking half the...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My conclusion was and still is that most people that think they have a bat cave, or describe a bat cave are wrong. If it is any sort of standard flat paint...its not a bat cave and a grey screen can still help with contrast. I started with a white screen, went grey, treated the room more, went white again, treated the room even more and now I'd love a 1.3 gain screen.


I have a light controlled room that looks very similar to your previous room. Dark grey walls, black ceiling, dark carpet. What brand grey screen did it works for you in the past?


----------



## NxNW

You were asking someone else but I do believe Silver Ticket is generally a great starting place. Can't beat that value. I have their "gray" screen and it works fine. Of course if you want to spend more, there are screens out there that perform better: just as with everything in home theater, you can spend a lot chasing diminishing returns.


----------



## DeChris86

Ehy


rati said:


> I have a light controlled room that looks very similar to your previous room. Dark grey walls, black ceiling, dark carpet. What brand grey screen did it works for you in the past?


Why the grey screen then? It's said that white screen works best for those rooms. I don't rven have black ceiling with velvet and i hardly see any light bouncing.


----------



## rati

I do see some reflection from the ceiling border as my wife had the “great” idea of making it light grey and white. In addition there is reflection from the AC that I have on the Wall. I could say there is slight reflection from the black ceiling also. 
I have started to think that maybe the the small reflection that I believe the room has, it’s not that slight at all.
Would appreciate opinion from other more knowledgeable persons.


----------



## luisalbertokid

rati said:


> I do see some reflection from the ceiling border as my wife had the “great” idea of making it light grey and white. In addition there is reflection from the AC that I have on the Wall. I could say there is slight reflection from the black ceiling also.
> I have started to think that maybe the the small reflection that I believe the room has, it’s not that slight at all.
> Would appreciate opinion from other more knowledgeable persons.


Turn off the lights of your room and turn on all the equipment you use when watching a movie EXCEPT the projector. I did this and saw a lot of lights on my screen: blue light from the leds of an internet router, yellow light from the AC display on my wall and other stuff I don't remember now - basically, I could clearly see my screen even with all the main lights off. So I turned all equipment lights off and the ones I could not turn off I blocked with a piece of black cardboard. Now I have a 100% pitch black room with no lights on my screen other than the projector's.


----------



## rati

Good sugestion, I will try it this week.


----------



## DeChris86

rati said:


> I do see some reflection from the ceiling border as my wife had the “great” idea of making it light grey and white. In addition there is reflection from the AC that I have on the Wall. I could say there is slight reflection from the black ceiling also.
> I have started to think that maybe the the small reflection that I believe the room has, it’s not that slight at all.
> Would appreciate opinion from other more knowledgeable persons.


Well yea, other than the ceiling the rest isn't dark at all and there should be light bouncing happening.


----------



## DeChris86

luisalbertokid said:


> Turn off the lights of your room and turn on all the equipment you use when watching a movie EXCEPT the projector. I did this and saw a lot of lights on my screen: blue light from the leds of an internet router, yellow light from the AC display on my wall and other stuff I don't remember now - basically, I could clearly see my screen even with all the main lights off. So I turned all equipment lights off and the ones I could not turn off I blocked with a piece of black cardboard. Now I have a 100% pitch black room with no lights on my screen other than the projector's.


That's a good way to detect unwanted light input.
I witnessed brightening cause of machines running: Very noticable when using dynamic mode with auto iris: As it fully closes i first thought it was broken cause of vertical stripe of light passing throught it..
Then realized it was the apple tv White LED pointing to the screen and brightening happened... 
Maybe you can improve contrast/blacks a bit by this method + room optimization but don't expect miracles: It's still an Epson pj. Good luck!


----------



## Alan P

luisalbertokid said:


> So I turned all equipment lights off and the ones I could not turn off *I blocked with a piece of black cardboard*. Now I have a 100% pitch black room with no lights on my screen other than the projector's.


A little more elegant solution if you're interested. 









LightDims Original Strength - Light Dimming LED Covers / Light Dimming Sheets for Routers, Electronics and Appliances and More. Dims 50-80% of Light, in Retail Packaging. - Light Dims Led Light Blocker - Amazon.com


LightDims Original Strength - Light Dimming LED Covers / Light Dimming Sheets for Routers, Electronics and Appliances and More. Dims 50-80% of Light, in Retail Packaging. - Light Dims Led Light Blocker - Amazon.com



www.amazon.com


----------



## luisalbertokid

Alan P said:


> A little more elegant solution if you're interested.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LightDims Original Strength - Light Dimming LED Covers / Light Dimming Sheets for Routers, Electronics and Appliances and More. Dims 50-80% of Light, in Retail Packaging. - Light Dims Led Light Blocker - Amazon.com
> 
> 
> LightDims Original Strength - Light Dimming LED Covers / Light Dimming Sheets for Routers, Electronics and Appliances and More. Dims 50-80% of Light, in Retail Packaging. - Light Dims Led Light Blocker - Amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com


Haha I kind of thought some time ago "why hasn't anyone thought of something like that?". Well, someone has 😉


----------



## DeChris86

Okay...nice 🤣


----------



## DeChris86

Gonna try those, IF they are available in my country/amazon. For Apple TV 's ultra bright white LED, denon x1200's green LED and so on.


----------



## jwc1969

rati said:


> I do see some reflection from the ceiling border as my wife had the “great” idea of making it light grey and white. In addition there is reflection from the AC that I have on the Wall. I could say there is slight reflection from the black ceiling also.
> I have started to think that maybe the the small reflection that I believe the room has, it’s not that slight at all.
> Would appreciate opinion from other more knowledgeable persons.


That's a really nice room, great job. Very possible there's no good solution for the WAF issue but the biggest thing I see is the white ceiling border just above the screen. Seems to me that'd cause the most reflection issues. I have a drop ceiling (white) and covered the first 6' with black velvet and the difference was incredible. But again, doesn't seem there's a ton you can do. Good luck and enjoy!!


----------



## hms17B

This is my final take on Dynamic mode. I've been trying to get something out of it but to no real avail. On a true black image the iris does close down all the way, but if there's the least bit of light in the image, the iris opens up as much as the other modes. Looking at the window patterns from the Spears and Munsil disc, Dynamic is best on the 0% window, but on the next pattern with a 5% window, Natural and Digital Cinema are actually darker on the black background than Dynamic. Dark scenes are more like the 5% window than the 0% window since they usually aren't full black over the whole image, so Dynamic becomes a liability on actual program material. Too bad, I had hopes for it, but no more.


----------



## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> This is my final take on Dynamic mode. I've been trying to get something out of it but to no real avail. On a true black image the iris does close down all the way, but if there's the least bit of light in the image, the iris opens up as much as the other modes. Looking at the window patterns from the Spears and Munsil disc, Dynamic is best on the 0% window, but on the next pattern with a 5% window, Natural and Digital Cinema are actually darker on the black background than Dynamic. Dark scenes are more like the 5% window than the 0% window since they usually aren't full black over the whole image, so Dynamic becomes a liability on actual program material. Too bad, I had hopes for it, but no more.


I ended up with equal results sadly and it doesn't open up quickly enough even on 'high speed' vs 'normal'.
But in addition to that i can tell that if you go -20 manual iris in dynamic, it dims even harder than what you get on any other mode, including digital cinema. You could try that. It's already TOO dim/dark then for my taste, in the picture.
We sacrifice a lot of brightness and colour pop for the black level 😵
Currently i'm using digital cinema WITH Dyn/auto-iris for best blacks in general + darker in complete black and dynamic mode for brighter movies WITHOUT Iris for contrast and brightness with almost as good blacks. Games: Natural (red touch) or dynamic aswell. You need to calibrate dynamic to get rid of the green/blue colouring. 
Maybe the CPL will help even things out 👍


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> I ended up with equal results sadly and it doesn't open up quickly enough even on 'high speed' vs 'normal'.
> But in addition to that i can tell that if you go -20 manual iris in dynamic, it dims even harder than what you get on any other mode, including digital cinema. You could try that. It's already TOO dim/dark then for my taste, in the picture.
> We sacrifice a lot of brightness and colour pop for the black level 😵
> Currently i'm using digital cinema WITH Dyn/auto-iris for best blacks in general + darker in complete black and dynamic mode for brighter movies WITHOUT Iris for contrast and brightness with almost as good blacks. Games: Natural (red touch) or dynamic aswell. You need to calibrate dynamic to get rid of the green/blue colouring.
> Maybe the CPL will help even things out 👍


I tried -20 manual iris in Dynamic and it blew out the contrast. Odd, but on the S&M Contrast pattern there was no definition between most levels of the white scale at -20. Didn't do that on -19 and up, though. Using Dynamic seems like taking a hammer to something and then patching it up - not the route I want to go.


----------



## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> I tried -20 manual iris in Dynamic and it blew out the contrast. Odd, but on the S&M Contrast pattern there was no definition between most levels of the white scale at -20. Didn't do that on -19 and up, though. Using Dynamic seems like taking a hammer to something and then patching it up - not the route I want to go.


Dynamic is really aggressive on a lot of things, not always in a good or usable way. Once colours are neutral it's usable due light output/contrast but without auto iris. Dynamic -20 takes a big "dip" in brightness compared to -19.


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Dynamic is really aggressive on a lot of things, not always in a good or usable way. Once colours are neutral it's usable due light output/contrast but without auto iris. Dynamic -20 takes a big "dip" in brightness compared to -19.


Frankly, I just can't find enough good in Dynamic to justify using it under my circumstances.


----------



## samlooker

Sorry for this stupid question. I hooked up my HTPC to the 5050ub in hdmi 1 port. Should i set the pc display from the pc settings to 1080p, or 4K? I would like to watch 4k movies and for 1080p content to upscale it, just not sure what to set.


----------



## PixelPusher15

samlooker said:


> Sorry for this stupid question. I hooked up my HTPC to the 5050ub in hdmi 1 port. Should i set the pc display from the pc settings to 1080p, or 4K? I would like to watch 4k movies and for 1080p content to upscale it, just not sure what to set.


Set it to 4K. What are you using for playback?


----------



## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> Frankly, I just can't find enough good in Dynamic to justify using it under my circumstances.


Dynamic is all about brightness and contrast.
Did you match colours so it's not that ugly greenish anymore? I even maybe use it for games, since it fits good it seems.


----------



## samlooker

PixelPusher15 said:


> Set it to 4K. What are you using for playback?


I use VLC from my pc. Is it OK to play 4k movies?


----------



## PixelPusher15

samlooker said:


> I use VLC from my pc. Is it OK to play 4k movies?


What graphics card do you have? VLC handles HDR extremely mediocrely. MPC with madVR is about as good as it gets for 4K HDR.


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Dynamic is all about brightness and contrast.
> Did you match colours so it's not that ugly greenish anymore? I even maybe use it for games, since it fits good it seems.


I did fix the colors some. What I was looking for, though, was the best black level attainable. Dynamic gives that, but only on full black frames. Once there's any light in the image, Dynamic is no better than the other modes at displaying black. So what's the point of using it for the purpose of better black? None that I can see, at least for the sort of things I watch. Program material uses full black frames mostly for fades between scenes, but the actual scenes usually have some bit of light in them even if only dark grays. Black-only looks best with Dynamic, but black mixed with anything above black looks better with Digital Cinema or Natural.

And a further point. I'm seeing that because of the raised black floor limitations of this 3LCD technology, what is supposed to be black displays as dark gray. But that is the same as what is supposed to display as dark gray. So black and dark gray crush together with no visible distinction between them. To uncrush that, one has to raise dark gray, but that makes dark gray too light. So an impasse, and one is forced to compromise. My compromise has been to raise the Gamma curve just a bit. Seems to be the best I can do under the circumstances.

If I were younger I might start saving for a new house with a new room and a JVC, but for now I'll enjoy what I've got.


----------



## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> I did fix the colors some. What I was looking for, though, was the best black level attainable. Dynamic gives that, but only on full black frames. Once there's any light in the image, Dynamic is no better than the other modes at displaying black. So what's the point of using it for the purpose of better black? None that I can see, at least for the sort of things I watch. Program material uses full black frames mostly for fades between scenes, but the actual scenes usually have some bit of light in them even if only dark grays. Black-only looks best with Dynamic, but black mixed with anything above black looks better with Digital Cinema or Natural.
> 
> And a further point. I'm seeing that because of the raised black floor limitations of this 3LCD technology, what is supposed to be black displays as dark gray. But that is the same as what is supposed to display as dark gray. So black and dark gray crush together with no visible distinction between them. To uncrush that, one has to raise dark gray, but that makes dark gray too light. So an impasse, and one is forced to compromise. My compromise has been to raise the Gamma curve just a bit. Seems to be the best I can do under the circumstances.
> 
> If I were younger I might start saving for a new house with a new room and a JVC, but for now I'll enjoy what I've got.


What you describe is exactly what i was hoping for with the ub6050 with iris aswell. You got either best 'average' black in mixed scenes and dark but not full black scenes (which is the usual thing in horror movies and most productions these days just like 'SEE' on apple tv) with -20 dynamic, turned down digital cinema or cinema in my opinion or observations so far.
Or bit higher, brightened blacks with any other mode or manual iris level + almost perfect black only in fulll blackouts but with the downside of a dim picture afterwards. Turning up gamma or giving it even custom gamma curves helps with providing shadow detail if the rest of brightness parameters is backed down for best blacks i think( i do it aswell).
So, like any other projector the Epsons aren't perfect.
So i already got a house with dedicated room and just a few reflections happening which i guess only come in play on brighter mixed scenes, not these dark ones on black or near black cause there is just not enough emitted. JVC would be great but there is mostly the way to high price for those..
Maybe the CPL will help us out on our Epsons 🎥🍿


----------



## DeChris86

So you guys,hope you had a great and happy halloween 🎃.
I'm wondering: Would someone like to share his/her recent, favorite settings on ub5050/6050 here (including mine of course)?
Maybe there are great ones helping people out since for my taste, the presets by Epson don't look too good and even what my seller did (calibration) bevor sending to me isn't convincing at all. So i don't use neither of both options but a mix out of the internet and personal taste 🎥


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> What you describe is exactly what i was hoping for with the ub6050 with iris aswell. You got either best 'average' black in mixed scenes and dark but not full black scenes (which is the usual thing in horror movies and most productions these days just like 'SEE' on apple tv) with -20 dynamic, turned down digital cinema or cinema in my opinion or observations so far.
> Or bit higher, brightened blacks with any other mode or manual iris level + almost perfect black only in fulll blackouts but with the downside of a dim picture afterwards. Turning up gamma or giving it even custom gamma curves helps with providing shadow detail if the rest of brightness parameters is backed down for best blacks i think( i do it aswell).
> So, like any other projector the Epsons aren't perfect.
> So i already got a house with dedicated room and just a few reflections happening which i guess only come in play on brighter mixed scenes, not these dark ones on black or near black cause there is just not enough emitted. JVC would be great but there is mostly the way to high price for those..
> Maybe the CPL will help us out on our Epsons 🎥🍿


We complain a bit, but for the price, these Epsons are really good. The improvement over my previous Sanyo is quite large, although after over a dozen years I had expected even more. Considering how long we've had 4K now, I think it's rather poor that we still have non-native 4K and less than stellar black levels on any models except maybe the lowest budget ones.


----------



## DeChris86

Yep, agreeing on this. It's frightening that our Epsons still count as "good" and "good for the money" aswell after years.. Slow progress, with true 4K still not becoming cheaper but even higher priced generation by generation 😧


----------



## asolor78

HDR setting with ps5 console and this projector any recommendations?


----------



## jkboatman

Hi all - I'm finishing a build of a theater space and think I should treat myself to a new projector. The 5050UB seems to be an awesome unit from everything I've been reading. It's a lot more $$ than I spent on my Epson 2040 ~6 years ago, but I think I can expect a major improvement in performance. The new theater space will have a 126" spandex AT screen (white on black). Seating area is ~12.5ft from the screen, and the walls/ceiling will be dark flat paint. I'll add some acoustic treatments at some point as well.

This is really just me looking for justification on spending the money for a new projector...but should I expect to be blown away by the jump from an Epson 2040 to a 5050UB? We currently don't watch any 4k content but I do have an appleTV 4k and Firestick 4k. Will be mainly streaming content from Netflix/Disney/HBO/etc. I'll have to upgrade my Denon 2112ci receiver too at some point since it's not 4k ready.

Does the 5050ub do it's own up-scaling of 1080p content? I think I'll miss out on any HDR effects until the receiver is upgraded...


----------



## DeChris86

jkboatman said:


> Hi all - I'm finishing a build of a theater space and think I should treat myself to a new projector. The 5050UB seems to be an awesome unit from everything I've been reading. It's a lot more $$ than I spent on my Epson 2040 ~6 years ago, but I think I can expect a major improvement in performance. The new theater space will have a 126" spandex AT screen (white on black). Seating area is ~12.5ft from the screen, and the walls/ceiling will be dark flat paint. I'll add some acoustic treatments at some point as well.
> 
> This is really just me looking for justification on spending the money for a new projector...but should I expect to be blown away by the jump from an Epson 2040 to a 5050UB? We currently don't watch any 4k content but I do have an appleTV 4k and Firestick 4k. Will be mainly streaming content from Netflix/Disney/HBO/etc. I'll have to upgrade my Denon 2112ci receiver too at some point since it's not 4k ready.
> 
> Does the 5050ub do it's own up-scaling of 1080p content? I think I'll miss out on any HDR effects until the receiver is upgraded...


I was in a comparable situation:

Get a new(er) AVR that supports hdcp 2.2 for 4K/60
If you got a dark(ened) room: I'd recommend getting thr ub6050 AT LEAST! Prices aren't what they used to be and went up for projectors each generation by the next 😤- but you need to spend some money to get cinematic looks and feeling.
If there is more of a budget available: Check out JVC. If not new maybe some second hand will do it. Otherwise ub6050 got better blacks than ub5050 although it's not that huge contrast ratio and black level (like on most JVCs).
All comes down to your preferences and what type of user you are: Good black level fan (JVC) or more the brightness fan and value for money (Epson). There is Epson ls12000 with laser and better shifting for sharper/more detailed images, better frame interpolation at the cost of almost double the price of ub6050.


----------



## jaredmwright

DeChris86 said:


> I was in a comparable situation:
> 
> Get a new(er) AVR that supports hdcp 2.2 for 4K/60
> If you got a dark(ened) room: I'd recommend getting thr ub6050 AT LEAST! Prices aren't what they used to be and went up for projectors each generation by the next - but you need to spend some money to get cinematic looks and feeling.
> If there is more of a budget available: Check out JVC. If not new maybe some second hand will do it. Otherwise ub6050 got better blacks than ub5050 although it's not that huge contrast ratio and black level (like on most JVCs).
> All comes down to your preferences and what type of user you are: Good black level fan (JVC) or more the brightness fan and value for money (Epson). There is Epson ls12000 with laser and better shifting for sharper/more detailed images, better frame interpolation at the cost of almost double the price of ub6050.


I will add my experience moving from a 5030ub to 6050ub, the incremental improvements are noticeable but the biggest improvement wasn't the projector. Also upgraded my receiver to Denon 4300h for Atmos and updated capabilities. Things that are important to me are:

3D (Even though it's not as popular, I enjoy it and have many 3D Bluray discs that I rewatch like Avatar and Guardians of the Galaxy to name a couple).

Good contrast (not great like JVC), it is close enough for my taste and the 6050ub fits the bill perfectly once calibrated with a Videoprocessor, if not I would not be happy with it when switching between SDR and HDR content.

Enough brightness to run without High Lamp mode for a quiet fan speed (run on medium onto a 1.0 gain screen in a light-controlled dedicated home theater.

HDR support (the reason I upgraded my 5030ub originally) although in hindsight this is less important, see next comment for why.

You can achieve a much better picture from any projector with investment in a video processor, commercial or home built. I went with home built since I like to tinker and am technical, it isn't for everyone. 

I built mine with Videoprocessor.org and MadVR in a PC (Best upgrade you can make IMHO) removes the weakness of HDR in the 6050ub projector which is quite weak and never gives a great picture along with requiring constant adjustments. This investment gives a consistent cinematic experience and ensures you get the most out of your projector and experience. 

I would argue that with my 5030ub, I had 80% of what I have now, the main difference being improved contrast, sharper image due to 4K support (was using a 4k-1080p downscaler with my 5030ub to enable 4k video and audio support since they are often paired). The 4K support on 6050ub isn't what impresses me the most, it is the color and vibrancy of the image with balanced blacks.

To get this all dialed in it takes time and effort to calibrate and putting the work in is fun for me. 

Hope this helps, it's a fun hobby and constantly changing.





Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## DeChris86

Yep, i find ub6050 is barely audible in eco and even medium depending on used colour mode: I believe it's quieter in digital cinema as it is in, let's say dynamic, so it may vary with light output.
We (wife and I) had 100' screen paired to a Acer DLP ~650$ in a white living room first (appartement).
As we bought a house we decided to build a dedicated home cinema since we both are cinema fans (till ~2020 we went to Public cinemas once a WEEK).
For this the DLP projector stayed and now i went with 127' white 1.0 gain screen with 6cm velour frame.
Next was Sony 295...very dissapointing and got the ub6050 in exchange for the (used) Sony:
Blacks are a bit deeper, no colour banding in HDR, lots of options in terms of picture quality adjusting to own taste, good brightness and sharpness..just not the true 4K and it lacks black floor in my opinion (not even Sony's new XW can provide great blacks and are double price of ub6050).
So having said that: Yes, a videoprocessor (envy extreme, lumagen or mad VR will make watching HDR/SDR via projector more comfortable, brighter, you can come up with more adjustments and implement dolby vision on HDR 10 devices like our Epsons. A little upgrade can be done by using hd fury to "force" dolby vision (llDV) aswell. 
But the one thing they all got in common is they can't touch the max. (Lowest) - nativ on/off - black level of whatever device. And that's what gives a certain amount of clarity and sharpness to the eye.

Epsons are nice 'bang for the buck" that's for sure.
And unless you've got a whole lot more money to spend for a pj (JVC), It's maybe (still) the best option we have.
I'll do further optimization of my room in the front, about 1,5 meters with black velvet on walls and ceiling, trying the CPL Filter, try llDV with hd fury and paired with my settings i believe it's gonna be "okay-good" then. 
We'll see what's on the market 2-3 years from now. Cheers 🍿🎥


----------



## WynsWrld98

Anyone know if yiu can force Dolby Vision on the Epson with a Zidoo Z9X vs needing to buy an HD Fury?


----------



## jaredmwright

WynsWrld98 said:


> Anyone know if yiu can force Dolby Vision on the Epson with a Zidoo Z9X vs needing to buy an HD Fury?


Just get an Arcana and set and forget vs messing with hacky workarounds. It works great, is reliable and does the job. LLDV is beneficial in my viewing over HDR. 

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

jaredmwright said:


> Just get an Arcana and set and forget vs messing with hacky workarounds. It works great, is reliable and does the job. LLDV is beneficial in my viewing over HDR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


$299? If the Zidoo can do it would rather save the money. Anyone doing Dolby Vision with a Zidoo Z9X and an Epson?


----------



## DeChris86

WynsWrld98 said:


> $299? If the Zidoo can do it would rather save the money. Anyone doing Dolby Vision with a Zidoo Z9X and an Epson?


It's 229 here (new) and ~100 (second hand)..


----------



## jaredmwright

WynsWrld98 said:


> $299? If the Zidoo can do it would rather save the money. Anyone doing Dolby Vision with a Zidoo Z9X and an Epson?


Paid $179 for mine new. If you figure the time spent, is easily worth it.









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Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## WynsWrld98

jaredmwright said:


> Paid $179 for mine new. If you figure the time spent, is easily worth it.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


I looked it up on Amazon $299 is where I got that price


----------



## jaredmwright

WynsWrld98 said:


> I looked it up on Amazon $299 is where I got that price


Amazon isn't always the best price, see ebay there is one for $100 right now. 

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## DeChris86

jaredmwright said:


> Amazon isn't always the best price, see ebay there is one for $100 right now.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


Saw it for 100-120$ too*.*
Maybe i'll give it a try but first the CPL.


----------



## biglen

What exactly are the benefits to using an Arcana?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## smile

Epson 5050Ub. What spec AVR and cable do I need to maximize its capabilities?
It 1080 but can utilize 4K in some way, as I understand it (as in, not much).
Like: HDMI 2.x ; premium 18G ... 
Thx


----------



## DeChris86

smile said:


> Epson 5050Ub. What spec AVR and cable do I need to maximize its capabilities?
> It 1080 but can utilize 4K in some way, as I understand it (as in, not much).
> Like: HDMI 2.x ; premium 18G ...
> Thx


5050: 4K Shift (=4.1mil pixel = half 4K or double fhd); 60hz, HDR support.
->AVR that supports hdcp 2.2 for 4K/60fps (Denon x1200 like mine and on/upwards).
->HDMI Cable: Depends on the lenght needed: If it's more than X metres (5-10m) choose hybrid cables (fibre) which are more expensive.
Other than that any 18gbit, hdmi 2.0b will do the job.


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> What exactly are the benefits to using an Arcana?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Enable Dolby Vision using an HDR hack for non LLDV displays. Can do other things also, such as scaling if needed but I just use it for DV support. 

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## gkman1

Hello,

Would anyone know why my Epson 5050 displays no signal when switching sources? Tonight, I went from my bluray player to my FireTV stick and it displayed no signal. I had to switch the remote to HDMI 2 then back to HDMI 1 for it to work. Another time I received no signal at start up. I'm running a Ruipro 33 Ft. fiber active HDMI cable....Could this be the issue? I thought this cable would be sufficient. Any suggestions are appreciated.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

gkman1 said:


> Hello,
> 
> Would anyone know why my Epson 5050 displays no signal when switching sources? Tonight, I went from my bluray player to my FireTV stick and it displayed no signal. I had to switch the remote to HDMI 2 then back to HDMI 1 for it to work. Another time I received no signal at start up. I'm running a Ruipro 33 Ft. fiber active HDMI cable....Could this be the issue? I thought this cable would be sufficient. Any suggestions are appreciated.


I have experienced this also on my 6050, hdmi is just fickle with the handshakes.


----------



## fredworld

gkman1 said:


> Hello,
> 
> Would anyone know why my Epson 5050 displays no signal when switching sources? Tonight, I went from my bluray player to my FireTV stick and it displayed no signal. I had to switch the remote to HDMI 2 then back to HDMI 1 for it to work. Another time I received no signal at start up. I'm running a Ruipro 33 Ft. fiber active HDMI cable....Could this be the issue? I thought this cable would be sufficient. Any suggestions are appreciated.


Here are *search results for "no signal" in this thread*. Perusing it should reveal a number of suggestions and potential solutions.


----------



## hms17B

gkman1 said:


> Hello,
> 
> Would anyone know why my Epson 5050 displays no signal when switching sources? Tonight, I went from my bluray player to my FireTV stick and it displayed no signal. I had to switch the remote to HDMI 2 then back to HDMI 1 for it to work. Another time I received no signal at start up. I'm running a Ruipro 33 Ft. fiber active HDMI cable....Could this be the issue? I thought this cable would be sufficient. Any suggestions are appreciated.


I've had similar from time to time for no reason that I can see. Also signal present, but oddities in the display. Switching inputs on the 5050 as you did has always remedied it for me.


----------



## jaredmwright

hms17B said:


> I've had similar from time to time for no reason that I can see. Also signal present, but oddities in the display. Switching inputs on the 5050 as you did has always remedied it for me.


I think there may be a firmware update affecting this if you aren't on the latest. Check that and being on the latest has a few tweaks that improve the picture.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## DeChris86

jaredmwright said:


> I think there may be a firmware update affecting this if you aren't on the latest. Check that and being on the latest has a few tweaks that improve the picture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


Can you tell if THIS is the latest?(Screenshot):


----------



## hms17B

jaredmwright said:


> I think there may be a firmware update affecting this if you aren't on the latest. Check that and being on the latest has a few tweaks that improve the picture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk





DeChris86 said:


> Can you tell if THIS is the latest?(Screenshot):


Latest has been 1.04 for a while now. The Epson site page for downloads for 5050UB & 6050UB says v1.04 with same firmware download file for each:

03/25/21
44.1 MB
EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin
Your version is:
Main - 09009564FLWWV104
Video2 - 02L2FLMV103
and mine is:
Main - 09009564FNWWV104
Video2 - 02L2FLMV103

Not sure what the "L" vs "N" in the version numbers means. I got mine in May of 2021 and it came with v1.04 firmware.


----------



## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> Latest has been 1.04 for a while now. The Epson site page for downloads for 5050UB & 6050UB says v1.04 with same firmware download file for each:
> 
> 03/25/21
> 44.1 MB
> EPSONPJ_H928_WWV104.bin
> Your version is:
> Main - 09009564FLWWV104
> Video2 - 02L2FLMV103
> and mine is:
> Main - 09009564FNWWV104
> Video2 - 02L2FLMV103
> 
> Not sure what the "L" vs "N" in the version numbers means. I got mine in May of 2021 and it came with v1.04 firmware.


Okay thanks. Got mine just a few weeks ago, so it should be latest, cause projector 'just been produced' 🙂


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Okay thanks. Got mine just a few weeks ago, so it should be latest, cause projector 'just been produced' 🙂


Interesting. Now I'm wondering if that "L" and "N" in the version number actually means something. It would seem that two copies of v1.04 would be the same functionally, and if they weren't, they'd have a slightly different version number, like 1.04 and 1.04a or 1.04.1 or some such. They never make these things completely clear.


----------



## fredworld

hms17B said:


> Interesting. Now I'm wondering if that "L" and "N" in the version number actually means something. It would seem that two copies of v1.04 would be the same functionally, and if they weren't, they'd have a slightly different version number, like 1.04 and 1.04a or 1.04.1 or some such. They never make these things completely clear.


It might just be a simple designation for country of download or an identifier of the unit's manufacturing date for some reason. Who knows?
I updated mine to 1.04 shortly after it became available for the USA. Since then, as I posted back in February, I've not had the dreaded on-screen "no signal" message when changing source inputs, consequently, switching inputs on my prepro has gotten faster by a few seconds with 1.04.
Back then Epson described to me that FW 1.04 "_Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it_."
I hope that last paragraph helps clarify why 1.04 is important to have.


----------



## hms17B

fredworld said:


> It might just be a simple designation for country of download or an identifier of the unit's manufacturing date for some reason. Who knows?
> I updated mine to 1.04 shortly after it became available for the USA. Since then, as I posted back in February, I've not had the dreaded on-screen "no signal" message when changing source inputs, consequently, switching inputs on my prepro has gotten faster by a few seconds with 1.04.
> Back then Epson described to me that FW 1.04 "_Adds a recovery process for the occurrence of a connection error. Prior to FW 104 a connection issue may be registered internally as a ROM (read only memory) error, this has been corrected. This may not be a significant update if you are not having connection errors, however we do suggest you install it_."
> I hope that last paragraph helps clarify why 1.04 is important to have.


Probably. I think all who have 1.04, however it's number is designated, have the same firmware. Problems I've had with "no signal" I believe were the fault of my Denon X3700H AVR and not of the 5050UB. That AVR does some odd things from time to time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it won't do any more, but that's for a different forum.


----------



## DeChris86

Worked fine in the beginning. Now 'no signal - hdmi 1' occurs from time to time here but picture appears afterwards. Handshake just takes longer it seems (don't know if that is now that there is apple tv + ps4 pro) or even with apple tv only last days. But It's okay i guess.


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Worked fine in the beginning. Now 'no signal - hdmi 1' occurs from time to time here but picture appears afterwards. Handshake just takes longer it seems (don't know if that is now that there is apple tv + ps4 pro) or even with apple tv only last days. But It's okay i guess.


I see "no signal" once in a while but switching something fixes it. If that's the worst I get, I'm not worried.


----------



## C S

I have a gently used Epson 6050ub that I will be listing soon for sale. Is there a place to list in on the forum thats ok? Thanks you and please excuse my ignorance.


----------



## PixelPusher15

C S said:


> I have a gently used Epson 6050ub that I will be listing soon for sale. Is there a place to list in on the forum thats ok? Thanks you and please excuse my ignorance.











Front Projector


This area for for the sale of front projection units.




www.avsforum.com


----------



## C S

PixelPusher15 said:


> Front Projector
> 
> 
> This area for for the sale of front projection units.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Thank you!


----------



## echo997

Currently having a weird issue where my projector has a slight green tint to the image. The tint seems to come in and out. Has anyone had a similar issue or know what could be causing this?


----------



## jaredmwright

echo997 said:


> Currently having a weird issue where my projector has a slight green tint to the image. The tint seems to come in and out. Has anyone had a similar issue or know what could be causing this?


No, I have not on my 6050


Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

echo997 said:


> Currently having a weird issue where my projector has a slight green tint to the image. The tint seems to come in and out. Has anyone had a similar issue or know what could be causing this?


*Epson Support* should be contacted. My guess? Could be a LCD panel going bad.


----------



## echo997

After giving it some more time it seems to only occur on startup for the first 10 mins or so and then is fine. Might be because the room is super cold?


----------



## fredworld

echo997 said:


> After giving it some more time it seems to only occur on startup for the first 10 mins or so and then is fine. Might be because the room is super cold?


10 minutes seems long. My boot-up color aberration is very brief...a minute maybe. Ambient room temp doesn't drop below 66F.


----------



## echo997

Its evolved to a purple/green tint. Still goes away after 5-10 minutes. Ambient room temperature is around 60 fahrenheit. Not really sure how worried I should be about this haha.


----------



## fredworld

echo997 said:


> Its evolved to a purple/green tint. Still goes away after 5-10 minutes. Ambient room temperature is around 60 fahrenheit. Not really sure how worried I should be about this haha.


If that was my situation, I'd contact Epson Support. They're very responsive.


----------



## jaredmwright

Definitely get it RMAd if you are in warranty 

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

echo997 said:


> Its evolved to a purple/green tint. Still goes away after 5-10 minutes. Ambient room temperature is around 60 fahrenheit. Not really sure how worried I should be about this haha.


I get a weird color (pink or green) on my 5050 from time to time that switching inputs fixes. As soon as you see it, switch the projector to one of its other inputs and then back and see if that does anything. If it does, it might not be the fault of the projector.


----------



## fredworld

echo997 said:


> Its evolved to a purple/green tint. Still goes away after 5-10 minutes. Ambient room temperature is around 60 fahrenheit. Not really sure how worried I should be about this haha.


Again, I'd contact Epson. But the input change suggestion from @hms17B should be tried. Meantime, 
it could be a simple HDMI handshake issue. What is the nature of your connection chain to Projector? Type of HDMI cable, length of HDMI cable....
Also, is the projector on FW 1.04, which addressed some connection issues.
Does it happen with all sources?
Try removing and reseating the HDMI cable.
Try a shorter HDMI cable, move the source closer to the PJ if needed to test. 
If none of that works, then report your troubleshooting to Epson.


----------



## MANTI5

Is there a preference between the Sony x800m2 vs Panny ub420 on the 5050?


----------



## PixelPusher15

MANTI5 said:


> Is there a preference between the Sony x800m2 vs Panny ub420 on the 5050?


Panasonic has better HDR tone mapping and is typically the preferred choice for projectors. You enable HDR to SDR2020 conversion and can tailor it a bit in the preferences. Works a lot better than the 5050s built in tone mapping.


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Panasonic has better HDR tone mapping and is typically the preferred choice for projectors. You enable HDR to SDR2020 conversion and can tailor it a bit in the preferences. Works a lot better than the 5050s built in tone mapping.


I agree that the Panasonic 420 (and 820) are very good. A question, though. I've tried setting the player to output SDR2020 and just don't see any difference between that and leaving it at HDR2020. I suspect that when the player does its mapping that there's not much left for the projector to do and so not much difference to see. But there is a lot of recommendation to have the player output SDR2020. Am I missing something? Using the 5050's HDR slider is a lot easier than using the player's HDR control.


----------



## hms17B

echo997 said:


> Its evolved to a purple/green tint. Still goes away after 5-10 minutes. Ambient room temperature is around 60 fahrenheit. Not really sure how worried I should be about this haha.


The color problems I've had I believe now to be the fault of my Denon AVR with the projector just displaying what the AVR is erroneously putting out. Never any problems when bypassing the AVR for me. When I first got my 5050, there seemed to be something off with the iris and I contacted Epson. They didn't have anything much to say about it except to send in the unit. I did that and they sent a brand new unit. I was only a month past purchase, but if I'd been farther out, I think they probably would have sent a refurbished one. The new unit has been fine, except that it has worse panel alignment than the original. I say that because a trade may not get you perfection even if it's a new unit. I'd worry about a refurbished one, but if the original doesn't work, there's no other choice. But I would rule out faults other than the projector before I'd send it in. You could trade one problem for another.


fredworld said:


> Again, I'd contact Epson. But the input change suggestion from @hms17B should be tried. Meantime,
> it could be a simple HDMI handshake issue. What is the nature of your connection chain to Projector? Type of HDMI cable, length of HDMI cable....
> Also, is the projector on FW 1.04, which addressed some connection issues.
> Does it happen with all sources?
> Try removing and reseating the HDMI cable.
> Try a shorter HDMI cable, move the source closer to the PJ if needed to test.
> If none of that works, then report your troubleshooting to Epson.


There's controversy around hot-plugging HDMI. Some say it's fine to do it and others the opposite. Personally, I wouldn't do it due to all the stories about problems after doing it. Whether those stories are just anecdotal or not, they are out there. If it can be fixed by just switching projector input back and forth, that could be a worthwhile, though slightly annoying, solution without risk of introducing any further problems by swapping equipment. Just a thought to consider.


----------



## grumblebob

echo997 said:


> Its evolved to a purple/green tint. Still goes away after 5-10 minutes. Ambient room temperature is around 60 fahrenheit. Not really sure how worried I should be about this haha.


I had this exact problem earlier this year (green tint for 15 minutes and sometimes the blob). Epson were no help neither was the repair place they sent me to.

Try replacing the air filter. This immediately fixed the problem for me.


----------



## hms17B

grumblebob said:


> I had this exact problem earlier this year (green tint for 15 minutes and sometimes the blob). Epson were no help neither was the repair place they sent me to.
> 
> Try replacing the air filter. This immediately fixed the problem for me.


I'll remember this. My room is very dust-free and I never see anything on the filter, but if there are ever easy fixes, it's certainly good to know about them.


----------



## seplant

Does anyone know if the rear plastic cable cover on the 6050 is identical to the rear cover from the 6040?


----------



## compaddict

I have 3k on my original bulb. When is a good time to change it out?


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

compaddict said:


> I have 3k on my original bulb. When is a good time to change it out?


When you feel it is losing output.. Last i changed had 3800hrs but new original one didn't give much more output if any.
I only run on medium so i might get a bit more life out of my lamps.


----------



## vinnanater

My 5040ub suddenly died on me so I just bought a used but like new 6050ub with an extra lamp and the mount for $1900. It has warranty till March of 2023 (verified on the Epson site). Any thoughts on buying an extended warranty? can I do that easily being the 2nd owner? the original owner bought it through a local installer and as far as i know, it was never registered with Epson, so theoretically i could register the serial number under my name for the first time on this unit. Another question is, i fired up for the first time last night and it seems to be working great, except for a barely noticeable clicking (probably auto iris) at low or no volume, the projector is mounted about 4 feet above my head, is this normal or should i try to get a replacement while it is still under warranty if i can? I see by eading some of the posts that the refurbished units may come with their own set of new problems. Any feedback is much appreciated.


----------



## seplant

vinnanater said:


> My 5040ub suddenly died on me so I just bought a used but like new 6050ub with an extra lamp and the mount for $1900. It has warranty till March of 2023 (verified on the Epson site). Any thoughts on buying an extended warranty? can I do that easily being the 2nd owner? the original owner bought it through a local installer and as far as i know, it was never registered with Epson, so theoretically i could register the serial number under my name for the first time on this unit. Another question is, i fired up for the first time last night and it seems to be working great, except for a barely noticeable clicking (probably auto iris) at low or no volume, the projector is mounted about 4 feet above my head, is this normal or should i try to get a replacement while it is still under warranty if i can? I see by eading some of the posts that the refurbished units may come with their own set of new problems. Any feedback is much appreciated.


It's definitely a crap shoot with refurbished units. I bought a used 6040 that had to be replaced under warranty but went through several refurbs before getting a minimally acceptable unit. I would give it some more time to see if it improves or see if anything else crops up before pulling the trigger on a replacement.


----------



## vinnanater

seplant said:


> It's definitely a crap shoot with refurbished units. I bought a used 6040 that had to be replaced under warranty but went through several refurbs before getting a minimally acceptable unit. I would give it some more time to see if it improves or see if anything else crops up before pulling the trigger on a replacement.


so what was wrong with your refurbs? Any idea on what all i should check on this one while in the warranty period, panel alignment and what else? Thankyou in advance.


----------



## hms17B

vinnanater said:


> My 5040ub suddenly died on me so I just bought a used but like new 6050ub with an extra lamp and the mount for $1900. It has warranty till March of 2023 (verified on the Epson site). Any thoughts on buying an extended warranty? can I do that easily being the 2nd owner? the original owner bought it through a local installer and as far as i know, it was never registered with Epson, so theoretically i could register the serial number under my name for the first time on this unit. Another question is, i fired up for the first time last night and it seems to be working great, except for a barely noticeable clicking (probably auto iris) at low or no volume, the projector is mounted about 4 feet above my head, is this normal or should i try to get a replacement while it is still under warranty if i can? I see by eading some of the posts that the refurbished units may come with their own set of new problems. Any feedback is much appreciated.


I can hear the iris adjusting on my 5050, which ought to operate same as a 6050. Not sure if I'd say it's clicking exactly, maybe a bit of a whir in there too. The iris is not silent, but it is quite soft and I don't hear it when there's any audio. Mine is also about 4 ft overhead and a little bit behind.


----------



## seplant

vinnanater said:


> so what was wrong with your refurbs? Any idea on what all i should check on this one while in the warranty period, panel alignment and what else? Thankyou in advance.


The first refurb had a dust blob right in the middle of the screen. The second one had weird uniformity issues that couldn't be adjusted for in the settings. Epson was good about taking them back, but it would be nice if their standards for refurbishment were a little higher.


----------



## vinnanater

Update on my 6050UB, i was able to register the serial number for warranty support on the Epson website, existing warranty is good till March of 2023, so atleast i have a few months to discover any flaws that may crop up, I have the option of buying a 1 year extended warrany, has anybody else in here used their extended warrany option?


----------



## routlaw

Received the new Apple 4K TV last night and when going through the setup menus discovered my system failed to initiate 4:2:2 color and defaulted to 4:2:0. The error message stated my cables were inadequate for the higher color fidelity but all of my HDMI cables are certified Blue Jeans HDMI. Is this typical? Or perhaps the Epson 5050 is not capable of 4:2:2 color depth? Thanks for any insight into this.


----------



## PixelPusher15

routlaw said:


> Received the new Apple 4K TV last night and when going through the setup menus discovered my system failed to initiate 4:2:2 color and defaulted to 4:2:0. The error message stated my cables were inadequate for the higher color fidelity but all of my HDMI cables are certified Blue Jeans HDMI. Is this typical? Or perhaps the Epson 5050 is not capable of 4:2:2 color depth? Thanks for any insight into this.


How long are your HDMI runs? The Epson can handle it


----------



## routlaw

@PixelPusher15 from ATV to Processor 3 ft from processor to projector about 15 feet max.


----------



## Ken Ormsby

Someone local to me is selling a 6050UB, for close to retail. Is it still a good upgrade from an older JVC-DLAX30BU?

We have been very happy with the JVC, but I don't want to spend 5k+ for a new laser PJ, but 4K is well established now.


----------



## rati

Is someone using a cinegrey 5d screen with the Epson? I’m wondering if it will be a good match for HDR.


----------



## dmfreck

Hi everyone - recently bought a 5050ub from Amazon and am well within my return window. I've seen a couple odd, purple colorations and pixelation (see attached photos) on the right hand side of the screen at startup. I'm wondering if I should initiate a return/replacement or if this is considered the spectrum of "normal". A reboot usually clears this up, but if it's already starting off poorly then I'm concerned it's only going to get worse. This has happened a couple of times. Source signal is an nVidia Shield TV.



http://imgur.com/a/mUWwKgo


Notice how pixelated the word "Rally" is in the first photo and the purple hue.

Bottom line - should I return/replace this puppy or not?


----------



## mrpikwik

Have you tested with any other sources? That is a lot of purple - and if you're able to reproduce it with other sources I would return/exchange it.


----------



## dmfreck

mrpikwik said:


> Have you tested with any other sources? That is a lot of purple - and if you're able to reproduce it with other sources I would return/exchange it.


Fair question and no, I have not. The problem is that it's intermittent to begin with so not easy to reproduce. I'll hook up an Apple TV 4K and see if I can get it to happen. But reading between the lines on your response, it doesn't sound like a common occurrence among 5050 owners enough to say "Yah, we all get that once in a while - don't worry about it".


----------



## jaredmwright

dmfreck said:


> Hi everyone - recently bought a 5050ub from Amazon and am well within my return window. I've seen a couple odd, purple colorations and pixelation (see attached photos) on the right hand side of the screen at startup. I'm wondering if I should initiate a return/replacement or if this is considered the spectrum of "normal". A reboot usually clears this up, but if it's already starting off poorly then I'm concerned it's only going to get worse. This has happened a couple of times. Source signal is an nVidia Shield TV.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/mUWwKgo
> 
> 
> Notice how pixelated the word "Rally" is in the first photo and the purple hue.
> 
> Bottom line - should I return/replace this puppy or not?


That looks like an HDMI issue based on my experience. Make sure the firmware us up to date 1.04 and consider HDMI cable or chain being the cause.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## dmfreck

jaredmwright said:


> That looks like an HDMI issue based on my experience. Make sure the firmware us up to date 1.04 and consider HDMI cable or chain being the cause.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


Thanks for the feedback


----------



## fredworld

dmfreck said:


> Hi everyone - recently bought a 5050ub from Amazon and am well within my return window. I've seen a couple odd, purple colorations and pixelation (see attached photos) on the right hand side of the screen at startup. I'm wondering if I should initiate a return/replacement or if this is considered the spectrum of "normal". A reboot usually clears this up, but if it's already starting off poorly then I'm concerned it's only going to get worse. This has happened a couple of times. Source signal is an nVidia Shield TV.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/mUWwKgo
> 
> 
> Notice how pixelated the word "Rally" is in the first photo and the purple hue.
> 
> Bottom line - should I return/replace this puppy or not?





mrpikwik said:


> Have you tested with any other sources? That is a lot of purple - and if you're able to reproduce it with other sources I would return/exchange it.





dmfreck said:


> Fair question and no, I have not. The problem is that it's intermittent to begin with so not easy to reproduce. I'll hook up an Apple TV 4K and see if I can get it to happen. But reading between the lines on your response, it doesn't sound like a common occurrence among 5050 owners enough to say "Yah, we all get that once in a while - don't worry about it".





jaredmwright said:


> That looks like an HDMI issue based on my experience. Make sure the firmware us up to date 1.04 and consider HDMI cable or chain being the cause.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


Agree with all posts. I'll add that you should try a different HDMI cable. Don't know what length your using but try a 6'-9' certified 4k cable. Bypass the AVR/AVP, move your source close to the PJ for a direct connection, if necessary, for testing. If it resolves with a different cable then you have your answer.


----------



## rekbones

jaredmwright said:


> That looks like an HDMI issue based on my experience. Make sure the firmware us up to date 1.04 and consider HDMI cable or chain being the cause.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


100% agree, mine does this occasionally. Just forcing another HDMI handshake always fixes it for me. No need to reboot the projector, just select the other HDMI or in my case just select another input on my AVR. Better cables may well be the answer.


----------



## hms17B

dmfreck said:


> Hi everyone - recently bought a 5050ub from Amazon and am well within my return window. I've seen a couple odd, purple colorations and pixelation (see attached photos) on the right hand side of the screen at startup. I'm wondering if I should initiate a return/replacement or if this is considered the spectrum of "normal". A reboot usually clears this up, but if it's already starting off poorly then I'm concerned it's only going to get worse. This has happened a couple of times. Source signal is an nVidia Shield TV.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/mUWwKgo
> 
> 
> Notice how pixelated the word "Rally" is in the first photo and the purple hue.
> 
> Bottom line - should I return/replace this puppy or not?


I've seen both odd color and pixelation on my 5050 rarely, but switching input and back on the projector or AVR always clears it up.


----------



## dmfreck

My HDMI length is 25 feet due to running it through the ceiling to the mounting point.









Amazon.com: 8K HDMI Cable 2.1 25FT/7.6M 48Gbps, Snowkids Long Ultra 48Gbps High Speed 3D 8K60 4K120 144Hz Braided HDMI Cord eARC HDR10 HDCP 2.2&2.3 Compatible with Roku TV/PS5/HDTV/Blu-ray : Electronics


Buy 8K HDMI Cable 2.1 25FT/7.6M 48Gbps, Snowkids Long Ultra 48Gbps High Speed 3D 8K60 4K120 144Hz Braided HDMI Cord eARC HDR10 HDCP 2.2&2.3 Compatible with Roku TV/PS5/HDTV/Blu-ray: HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com





This is the one I bought. Is 25 feet too long? I've had longer runs before in previous homes and went HDMI->Ethernet->HDMI


----------



## rekbones

dmfreck said:


> My HDMI length is 25 feet due to running it through the ceiling to the mounting point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon.com: 8K HDMI Cable 2.1 25FT/7.6M 48Gbps, Snowkids Long Ultra 48Gbps High Speed 3D 8K60 4K120 144Hz Braided HDMI Cord eARC HDR10 HDCP 2.2&2.3 Compatible with Roku TV/PS5/HDTV/Blu-ray : Electronics
> 
> 
> Buy 8K HDMI Cable 2.1 25FT/7.6M 48Gbps, Snowkids Long Ultra 48Gbps High Speed 3D 8K60 4K120 144Hz Braided HDMI Cord eARC HDR10 HDCP 2.2&2.3 Compatible with Roku TV/PS5/HDTV/Blu-ray: HDMI Cables - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
> 
> 
> 
> www.amazon.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the one I bought. Is 25 feet too long? I've had longer runs before in previous homes and went HDMI->Ethernet->HDMI


25' is really pushing it for a passive cable. An active or better yet an optical cable is less likely to give you issues. A lot cheaper and less prone to issues then the ethernet route.


----------



## dmfreck

rekbones said:


> 25' is really pushing it for a passive cable. An active or better yet an optical cable is less likely to give you issues. A lot cheaper and less prone to issues then the ethernet route.


OK - I just ordered a 25 foot optical HDMI. I'll see if that helps, thank you!


----------



## gigauae

what's the idea of 2 models while same specs? the 5050 vs 6050, in my region its called tw9400.
seems both discontinued in US market


----------



## DeChris86

gigauae said:


> what's the idea of 2 models while same specs? the 5050 vs 6050, in my region its called tw9400.
> seems both discontinued in US market


5050 is TW7400 and 6050 is TW9400 which is a boosted version of 5050 (more contrast, better blacks).
I'm on ub6050 since few months.


----------



## PixelPusher15

gigauae said:


> what's the idea of 2 models while same specs? the 5050 vs 6050, in my region its called tw9400.
> seems both discontinued in US market





DeChris86 said:


> 5050 is TW7400 and 6050 is TW9400 which is a boosted version of 5050 (more contrast, better blacks).
> I'm on ub6050 since few months.


That's not right. The 5050 isn't offered in the EU, just the 6050. The 4010 is equal to the TW7400. The 5050 and 6050 share the same internals aside from the claim that the lenses are handpicked for the 6050 (at least that's the claim in the US). In the US the 6050 comes with a 3-year warranty (vs 2 for the 5050), an extra bulb, a mount, and is black. I'm not sure if these extras are included with the EU TW9400. The 5050 is still being sold but the 6050 isn't.


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> That's not right. The 5050 isn't offered in the EU, just the 6050. The 4010 is equal to the TW7400. The 5050 and 6050 share the same internals aside from the claim that the lenses are handpicked for the 6050 (at least that's the claim in the US). In the US the 6050 comes with a 3-year warranty (vs 2 for the 5050), an extra bulb, a mount, and is black. I'm not sure if these extras are included with the EU TW9400. The 5050 is still being sold but the 6050 isn't.


Okay, thanks for clearyfiying.
I'm on ub6050(tw9400) which is sold without spare bulb, just 2 years warranty (1 year+ can be added for 70$), no mount and is black 😅
Ub6050 is still being sold but ub5050/4010 aren't anymore what i see.


----------



## mrpikwik

Just watched my first 3D movie - "The Walk" (2015). Good movie, but the 3D is pretty incredible; at least as good as an actual movie theater! My glasses lost connection once during the film. Also - there's a good 20 minutes near the end of the movie that take place at night, so it's very dark. It's hard to see almost anything, let alone with 3D effect, but I may just need to adjust the brightness? Otherwise I was very pleased with the 3D.


----------



## DavidK442

mrpikwik said:


> Just watched my first 3D movie - "The Walk" (2015). Good movie, but the 3D is pretty incredible; at least as good as an actual movie theater! My glasses lost connection once during the film. Also - there's a good 20 minutes near the end of the movie that take place at night, so it's very dark. It's hard to see almost anything, let alone with 3D effect, but I may just need to adjust the brightness? Otherwise I was very pleased with the 3D.


Welcome to the prestigious and exclusive 3D club.


----------



## DeChris86

mrpikwik said:


> Just watched my first 3D movie - "The Walk" (2015). Good movie, but the 3D is pretty incredible; at least as good as an actual movie theater! My glasses lost connection once during the film. Also - there's a good 20 minutes near the end of the movie that take place at night, so it's very dark. It's hard to see almost anything, let alone with 3D effect, but I may just need to adjust the brightness? Otherwise I was very pleased with the 3D.


Too dark in Shadow details: Maybe adjusting thr gamma curve helps. Don't know if the HDR Slider also can be activated, it's just 3D @ Full HD? Wouldn't turn brightness up to more than 50-53.
Which power mode? If you're on eco then medium could make the differerence, high is just a bit too noisy..


----------



## mrpikwik

I'm pretty sure power mode is set to Eco. Maybe I'll try medium. Thanks!


----------



## tw9400user

Hi, I have Carls Place Gray Screen and 5060ub, the image is excellent but on the solid background (white or gray) I see a slight overexposure in the center of the screen, what could it be?


----------



## DeChris86

tw9400user said:


> Hi, I have Carls Place Gray Screen and 5060ub, the image is excellent but on the solid background (white or gray) I see a slight overexposure in the center of the screen, what could it be?
> View attachment 3369480


Is it just gray or a "high contrast" one? It's a common thing for the second.
I got white screen gain 1.0 but a brightened right bottom corner also. It's dark brown or something.
Also got a little blue dot upper right side but can hardly be seen so i don't worry 😅🎥


----------



## LaserMark4

So I finally finished a rebuild (2.0) of a dedicated theater/listening room and installed a 5050UB. I've been a long time CRT projector guy dating back nearly 20 years (owned 2 Sony G70's on 120" screens). I did all the set-ups and certainly a tremendous learning curve dialing them in..... but GREAT images for the day. Obviously needing to update to the new century- 😎 (4K/8K, HD, etc.).

So right out of the box, this 5050 looks fantastic. Just beautiful. My question is, how much better might one expect with a detailed calibration effort? Have folks seen that much improvement? This thing rocks!


----------



## jaredmwright

LaserMark4 said:


> So I finally finished a rebuild (2.0) of a dedicated theater/listening room and installed a 5050UB. I've been a long time CRT projector guy dating back nearly 20 years (owned 2 Sony G70's on 120" screens). I did all the set-ups and certainly a tremendous learning curve dialing them in..... but GREAT images for the day. Obviously needing to update to the new century-  (4K/8K, HD, etc.).
> 
> So right out of the box, this 5050 looks fantastic. Just beautiful. My question is, how much better might one expect with a detailed calibration effort? Have folks seen that much improvement? This thing rocks!


Invest in building a PC with Videoprocessor with MadVR and it can get much better for HDR content. It is a great projector, enjoy.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## itsmejson

Is this still a good buy going into 2023? I don’t really want to spend more than $3k for my first projector.

I found the refurb on eBay for $2600 with tax but I may buy a new one for $400 more


----------



## CZ Eddie

I've been bummed about very slow HDMI switching forever now.
If I switch from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2, I get a "blink/blackout" of 5-10 seconds before the new picture comes up.
Same with both an HDMI matrix as well as direct to the two HDMI inputs on the back of the PJ. 

Today, I tested a 4K computer monitor I have with the same HDMI matrix and noticed that it switches rapidly between inputs.
Like, 1-2 seconds. 

Is this common with all Epson 5050UB or is it just mine?
I'm on the latest firmware as of a couple months ago.


----------



## hms17B

LaserMark4 said:


> So I finally finished a rebuild (2.0) of a dedicated theater/listening room and installed a 5050UB. I've been a long time CRT projector guy dating back nearly 20 years (owned 2 Sony G70's on 120" screens). I did all the set-ups and certainly a tremendous learning curve dialing them in..... but GREAT images for the day. Obviously needing to update to the new century- 😎 (4K/8K, HD, etc.).
> 
> So right out of the box, this 5050 looks fantastic. Just beautiful. My question is, how much better might one expect with a detailed calibration effort? Have folks seen that much improvement? This thing rocks!





jaredmwright said:


> Invest in building a PC with Videoprocessor with MadVR and it can get much better for HDR content. It is a great projector, enjoy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


But if you aren't up to doing the PC thing and play discs, take a look at the Panasonic players - 420 & 820 models.


----------



## jaredmwright

CZ Eddie said:


> I've been bummed about very slow HDMI switching forever now.
> If I switch from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2, I get a "blink/blackout" of 5-10 seconds before the new picture comes up.
> Same with both an HDMI matrix as well as direct to the two HDMI inputs on the back of the PJ.
> 
> Today, I tested a 4K computer monitor I have with the same HDMI matrix and noticed that it switches rapidly between inputs.
> Like, 1-2 seconds.
> 
> Is this common with all Epson 5050UB or is it just mine?
> I'm on the latest firmware as of a couple months ago.


I notice it responds much quicker with my PC also. Not sure why but the experience is much better. May be because dont have it switching resolution or color spaces with how I use Videoprocessor and MadVR. 

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## CZ Eddie

jaredmwright said:


> I notice it responds much quicker with my PC also. Not sure why but the experience is much better. May be because dont have it switching resolution or color spaces with how I use Videoprocessor and MadVR.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


I meant that my video chain was the same. I just swapped the output HDMI from the 5050UB to a computer monitor as a test.

The 5050UB took five+ seconds to refresh after an input change.
The monitor only needed about a second. 

I was switching between HTPC & an Nvidia Shield Pro.
Color spaces are different between the two.
Resolutions were 4K @ 59.94 vs 4K @ 59.93.


----------



## CZ Eddie

CZ Eddie said:


> I meant that my video chain was the same. I just swapped the output HDMI from the 5050UB to a computer monitor as a test.
> 
> The 5050UB took five+ seconds to refresh after an input change.
> The monitor only needed about a second.
> 
> I was switching between HTPC & an Nvidia Shield Pro.
> Color spaces are different between the two.
> Resolutions were 4K @ 59.94 vs 4K @ 59.93.


FYI, something I noted during my testing.
Swapping from an HDMI 2.0 cable to an HDMI 2.1 cable lowered my refresh times by a full second across the board.


----------



## tw9400user

DeChris86 said:


> Is it just gray or a "high contrast" one? It's a common thing for the second.
> I got white screen gain 1.0 but a brightened right bottom corner also. It's dark brown or something.
> Also got a little blue dot upper right side but can hardly be seen so i don't worry 😅🎥


no its gray with 0.8 gain.


----------



## CZ Eddie

tw9400user said:


> Hi, I have Carls Place Gray Screen and 5060ub, the image is excellent but on the solid background (white or gray) I see a slight overexposure in the center of the screen, what could it be?
> View attachment 3369480


Looks like hot spotting to me. A byproduct of the screen material.
You typically would get hot spotting with 1.3 gain and above.
But that's not a hard set rule.
My old Draper High Power (1.7 or 2.3 gain, don't remember) had it real bad but it was such a great screen otherwise.
I used it with a CRT projector back then.









How to Stop Hot Spots - Draper, Inc. Blog


There are ways to avoid hotspotting; as with all successful projection, it simply takes proper planning.




blog.draperinc.com


----------



## Mguzm00

I am considering upgrading my 2070 Super to a 3070 Ti. However, my 3700x would bottleneck performance at 1080p (but not at 1440p or 4k). I am trying to understand whether or not the 5050ub projector (which is currently hooked up to my PC) is closer to 1080p or 4k in that regard. I've heard it's closer to 4k pixels as opposed to true 4k, so is 1440p performance a better indicator? My thoughts -

1. The source is still 4k, so I believe the 3070 Ti will offer improved performance.
2. The projector itself -> 1080p 3LCD board, so not sure if that will affect things.
3. Like I mentioned, it's only doubling pixels so closer to 4 million (still more than 1440p) than true 4k.

Wondering whether or not I should consider the 5050UB as 4k or 1080p or somewhere in between considering the fact that it is a 4k pixel shift projector and I know that marketing can oftentimes be misleading. Would be helpful to understand as I imagine anybody here has a deeper understanding of the product specifications.

To see whether or not upgrading my GPU is worth it considering my 3700x processor. Should be worth it if the 5050ub is closer to 1440p or higher in terms of performance.

Thanks all!


----------



## biglen

jaredmwright said:


> Invest in building a PC with Videoprocessor with MadVR and it can get much better for HDR content. It is a great projector, enjoy.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


I have a HTPC for MadVR and keep going back and forth as to whether or not I should use VP. How would you sell VP to someone based on your experience with it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> I have a HTPC for MadVR and keep going back and forth as to whether or not I should use VP. How would you sell VP to someone based on your experience with it?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


If you watch any streaming content then VP is an amazing improvement to that content. You should realy just do it. It's like 230 bucks to get the capture card and a splitter to work around HDCP. Both are returnable if you don't like it.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> If you watch any streaming content then VP is an amazing improvement to that content. You should realy just do it. It's like 230 bucks to get the capture card and a splitter to work around HDCP. Both are returnable if you don't like it.


Running that second HDMI cable to my projector will be a nightmare though. The first cable was Hell. I have about a 35' run across the ceiling and there are joists up there that the cable constantly gets caught on when trying to run it. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

Why do


biglen said:


> Running that second HDMI cable to my projector will be a nightmare though. The first cable was Hell. I have about a 35' run across the ceiling and there are joists up there that the cable constantly gets caught on when trying to run it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 why do you need to run another cable?


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Why do
> 
> why do you need to run another cable?


Aren't there 2 cables going to the projector in this setup.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> Running that second HDMI cable to my projector will be a nightmare though. The first cable was Hell. I have about a 35' run across the ceiling and there are joists up there that the cable constantly gets caught on when trying to run it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


2nd cable is not needed as mentioned. If you don't want all video going through VP, use a HDMI splitter, I do this for 3D from my bluray and problem solved to use one cable, similar situation. 

I would sell VP as getting the quality of a projector 2-3x as much that has built in tone mapping, but it is actually better than any built in offered and you can extend DV capability into it with HD Fury Arcana. Once you see it in action, you can't unsee it. I spent hours trying to tweak and get a good image before and almost gave up and went SDR only, glad I built mine and spent the time, well worth it. There is a separate forum for that also I recommend you join, tons of great information. 

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=47413&share_type=t&link_source=app[/URL]

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## biglen

Connected to my AVR are a Blu-ray player, Shield Pro, HTPC, and a PS5. The HTPC is already running MadVR so what would the chain look like with just one HDMI going to my 5050?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jaredmwright

biglen said:


> Connected to my AVR are a Blu-ray player, Shield Pro, HTPC, and a PS5. The HTPC is already running MadVR so what would the chain look like with just one HDMI going to my 5050?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Add an HDMI switch with IR control, send the output of VP to the switch and AVR to the switch and those feed the projector over existing cable. Control inputs as desired. 

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## nusilver

Hi all, have had my 5050 for about a year and a half and have started noticing some strange horizontal banding along the top 10% of the screen—meaning that the top 10% of the screen is darker than the rest of the image. It’s hard to notice unless the image is fairly dark or a darker shade, i.e. blue or gray, but once the camera pans you can see a very defined horizontal delineation between the the darker section and the rest of the screen. Any idea what’s going on here? We have about 1300 hours on the lamp.


----------



## rekbones

nusilver said:


> Hi all, have had my 5050 for about a year and a half and have started noticing some strange horizontal banding along the top 10% of the screen—meaning that the top 10% of the screen is darker than the rest of the image. It’s hard to notice unless the image is fairly dark or a darker shade, i.e. blue or gray, but once the camera pans you can see a very defined horizontal delineation between the the darker section and the rest of the screen. Any idea what’s going on here? We have about 1300 hours on the lamp.


Use a white piece of printer paper on the screen to eliminate a screen issue, you would be surprised some screens can have issues. If you bought it new or refurbed from an authorized dealer your still are in warranty so call Epson and see what they think your issue may be.


----------



## PixelPusher15

Epson Owners: Would you utilize the High Speed Dynamic...


On every Epson I've tested the dynamic contrast, whether via laser dimming or dynamic iris, has been more aggressive in Dynamic Color mode. The problem with using Dynamic Color mode for this dynamic contrast is that Dynamic isn't great OOTB and requires a good amount of work to get balance. The...




www.avsforum.com


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> Epson Owners: Would you utilize the High Speed Dynamic...
> 
> 
> On every Epson I've tested the dynamic contrast, whether via laser dimming or dynamic iris, has been more aggressive in Dynamic Color mode. The problem with using Dynamic Color mode for this dynamic contrast is that Dynamic isn't great OOTB and requires a good amount of work to get balance. The...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.avsforum.com


Sure glad you haven't ditched the 5050 and gone on to strictly other things.


----------



## DeChris86

Merry christmas, everyone!! 🌲


----------



## JP32

Hi all,

I’ve had my 5050ub for a little over a year. Switched out for a new oem bulb, and almost immediately noticed a strong green tint in the middle of the image. “Strong” when watching B&W or white text.

Attaching a few photos to illustrate… any ideas on what the problem is? You’ll see the middle left appear greenish, while the middle-right is more magenta.


----------



## fredworld

JP32 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I’ve had my 5050ub for a little over a year. Switched out for a new oem bulb, and almost immediately noticed a strong green tint in the middle of the image. “Strong” when watching B&W or white text.
> 
> Attaching a few photos to illustrate… any ideas on what the problem is? You’ll see the middle left appear greenish, while the middle-right is more magenta.
> View attachment 3378219
> 
> View attachment 3378218
> 
> View attachment 3378220


Put your old lamp back in to see if it still happens. If it doesn't, then reinstall the newer lamp to see what happens.
Try a different HDMI cable, they do go bad sometimes.
BTW, is the new lamp from Epson or a third party supplier? I've had poor experience with third party lamps, well detailed in this thread.


----------



## JP32

fredworld said:


> Put your old lamp back in to see if it still happens. If it doesn't, then reinstall the newer lamp to see what happens.
> Try a different HDMI cable, they do go bad sometimes.
> BTW, is the new lamp from Epson or a third party supplier? I've had poor experience with third party lamps, well detailed in this thread.


I tried all above... green middle still remains. I fear it's very similar to the 'green blob' I experienced with JVC LCoS back in 2009ish... something about burnt color filters with those.

I tried searching the forum via my phone before my original post... but I'll dig in with an actual PC to see if I can find more info, like you mentioned. If anyone has any bullet points on if they've experienced 'green blob' with these 5050ub projectors, I'd appreciate it.


----------



## hms17B

JP32 said:


> I tried all above... green middle still remains. I fear it's very similar to the 'green blob' I experienced with JVC LCoS back in 2009ish... something about burnt color filters with those.
> 
> I tried searching the forum via my phone before my original post... but I'll dig in with an actual PC to see if I can find more info, like you mentioned. If anyone has any bullet points on if they've experienced 'green blob' with these 5050ub projectors, I'd appreciate it.


If you haven't already, you could put up the 5050 "home" screen and also from the menu display the grayscale patterns. If the greenish shows there, then it's definitely within the projector.


----------



## fredworld

JP32 said:


> I tried all above... green middle still remains. I fear it's very similar to the 'green blob' I experienced with JVC LCoS back in 2009ish... something about burnt color filters with those.
> 
> I tried searching the forum via my phone before my original post... but I'll dig in with an actual PC to see if I can find more info, like you mentioned. If anyone has any bullet points on if they've experienced 'green blob' with these 5050ub projectors, I'd appreciate it.


Try contacting Epson Support. Although it's out of warranty, they should still have suggestions. BTW, last I knew there are no longer any authorized Epson repair facilities because they've brought all repair in house. However, I found several in my area that were former Epson repair shops. You might find likewise. Also, my repair research for my dust blobs were estimated at $1200-$1500. Consequently, I'm living with my dust blobs.
Edit: just had another thought. Check Panel Alignment. There might be misalignment in the area where the green is seen. If so, you might just need to realign.


----------



## JP32

hms17B said:


> If you haven't already, you could put up the 5050 "home" screen and also from the menu display the grayscale patterns. If the greenish shows there, then it's definitely within the projector.


Good idea! I tried both, and definitely still there. Will keep that in my back pocket for the future, too. Thank you.



fredworld said:


> Try contacting Epson Support. Although it's out of warranty, they should still have suggestions. BTW, last I knew there are no longer any authorized Epson repair facilities because they've brought all repair in house. However, I found several in my area that were former Epson repair shops. You might find likewise. Also, my repair research for my dust blobs were estimated at $1200-$1500. Consequently, I'm living with my dust blobs.
> Edit: just had another thought. Check Panel Alignment. There might be misalignment in the area where the green is seen. If so, you might just need to realign.


I did just that a bit earlier... I'm still under warranty, but Crutchfield couldn't replace the unit themselves, since apparently this is no longer sold. Epson just authorized a replacement to be sent, but it's a refurb.

I purchased back in October 2021, so the initial warranty will continue to run. No new warranty w the refurb unit, which is worrisome. They put a $2,000 hold on my card until I send this original unit back. Seems extreme given the fact the unit is OOP.

Guess I'll have to stay on top of the color uniformity and be extra cautious. Honestly, I noticed this issue from the start, but tried to ignore it... but like most TV/Display issues, it only continues to get worse. Thank you for the advice, and I'm still interested in any further ideas, in case the new refurb has any issues. I read somewhere that changing the air filter solved a similar problem... does that make sense to anyone else?

* Forgot to answer this initially -- The replacement lamp is an "Original OEM" Osram P-VIP Bulb from Bulb America. One thing I noticed right off the bat, is that going into "Digital Cinema" turned the entire image pea-soup green. I've had to keep the projector on "Natural" color mode entirely. The original Epson bulb didn't have this issue to anywhere near that extent. The image gets a bit dimmer, as we know... but not the drastic color shift to green like this Osram one does. Will double check again later this week, as the original Epson lamp is back in right now, but I'm certain it'll prove out again, when I check.


----------



## hms17B

JP32 said:


> Good idea! I tried both, and definitely still there. Will keep that in my back pocket for the future, too. Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> I did just that a bit earlier... I'm still under warranty, but Crutchfield couldn't replace the unit themselves, since apparently this is no longer sold. Epson just authorized a replacement to be sent, but it's a refurb.
> 
> I purchased back in October 2021, so the initial warranty will continue to run. No new warranty w the refurb unit, which is worrisome. They put a $2,000 hold on my card until I send this original unit back. Seems extreme given the fact the unit is OOP.
> 
> Guess I'll have to stay on top of the color uniformity and be extra cautious. Honestly, I noticed this issue from the start, but tried to ignore it... but like most TV/Display issues, it only continues to get worse. Thank you for the advice, and I'm still interested in any further ideas, in case the new refurb has any issues. I read somewhere that changing the air filter solved a similar problem... does that make sense to anyone else?
> 
> * Forgot to answer this initially -- The replacement lamp is an "Original OEM" Osram P-VIP Bulb from Bulb America. One thing I noticed right off the bat, is that going into "Digital Cinema" turned the entire image pea-soup green. I've had to keep the projector on "Natural" color mode entirely. The original Epson bulb didn't have this issue to anywhere near that extent. The image gets a bit dimmer, as we know... but not the drastic color shift to green like this Osram one does. Will double check again later this week, as the original Epson lamp is back in right now, but I'm certain it'll prove out again, when I check.


The 5050UB is still a current model and is still carried by the retailers, Crutchfield included. Lest anyone might think that it's not. It's not dead yet.


----------



## JP32

hms17B said:


> The 5050UB is still a current model and is still carried by the retailers, Crutchfield included. Lest anyone might think that it's not. It's not dead yet.


sonnofa….

I took the Crutchfields’ rep’s word for it, but it did seem odd to me.

He said “We would normally replace this ourselves, but we don’t carry it anymore”


----------



## PixelPusher15

JP32 said:


> sonnofa….
> 
> I took the Crutchfields’ rep’s word for it, but it did seem odd to me.
> 
> He said “We would normally replace this ourselves, but we don’t carry it anymore”


Talk to a different rep?








Epson Home Cinema 5050UB


1080p home theater projector with 4K/HDR source compatibility




www.crutchfield.com





They clearly have them in stock and they even labeled it a Best for 2023 Projector lol


----------



## fredworld

JP32 said:


> sonnofa….
> 
> I took the Crutchfields’ rep’s word for it, but it did seem odd to me.
> 
> He said “We would normally replace this ourselves, but we don’t carry it anymore”


AFAIK, Epson's policy has been to replace with new if within 30 days of purchase, afterwards it's refurb roulette.


----------



## JP32

PixelPusher15 said:


> Talk to a different rep?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Epson Home Cinema 5050UB
> 
> 
> 1080p home theater projector with 4K/HDR source compatibility
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.crutchfield.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They clearly have them in stock and they even labeled it a Best for 2023 Projector lol


Ugh… the one time I move quickly on this type of thing! Crutchfield rep gave me the Epson number yesterday, I called immediately, and the replacement from Epson has already shipped… normally I’d be thrilled with that tournaround.

I guess I’ll find out this Friday, and will be extra uptight about any issues.


----------



## DeChris86

Watched "Finch" with Tom Hanks on Apple TV+ last night (nice movie!) using 'digital cinema', with fully opened iris (0) and eco mode+adaptive iris. At about the middle of the movie the lamp flickering (or let's say 'brightness adjusting" began and occured every now and then. My wife noticed it also, annoying. >Switching power mode from eco to medium solved this issue.
I know about that 'phaenomenon' cause I had read about it before.. Projection is all about compromises and these Epson are really no exception (more the opposite it seems). My 'favorites' so far are:

-Dynamic Mode has best brightness but highest black floor. Best Black during full black screen with the adaptive iris BUT it won't open after these so picture is way to dim for several seconds afterwards = Not usable to me.
-Dynamic Mode can be dimmed in 'Eco' to -20 which gets a dark picture with better blacks BUT there is immediately brightness pumping happening = not usable to me.
-Eco Mode makes the projector barely audible (Fan Noise; Shifting Noise is depending on material and can be louder than fans) BUT colours cool down with lower light output + after several lamphours this 'pumping' starts..
-lens memory doesn't work precisely (as saved).
-long handshake times ~7 seconds 
- Only good picture/colour modes that work for me are 'digital cinema': For about all movies and 'dynamic': For max. brightness in Games or bright/colourful movies (like cartoons, disney shortfilms)

It isn't meant as 'complaining' just a bit sad that they implemented stuff that doesn't work properly in it's own/meant way. Not to mention the limitations of black floor which are simply projection,- and LCD technology-based.
If i zoom in to get almost rid of the bars on top and at the bottom I'm 'okay' with what I see. The next step up would be a HUGE step up in price (JVC NP5) and that's not okay considering what the Epson already offers 🎥🍿
In addition to that maybe 'pixel pusher's' CPL projec
will help even things out even more 👍
Any recommendations, tipps are welcome of course.

Cheers,
Chris


----------



## jaredmwright

DeChris86 said:


> Watched "Finch" with Tom Hanks on Apple TV+ last night (nice movie!) using 'digital cinema', with fully opened iris (0) and eco mode+adaptive iris. At about the middle of the movie the lamp flickering (or let's say 'brightness adjusting" began and occured every now and then. My wife noticed it also, annoying. >Switching power mode from eco to medium solved this issue.
> I know about that 'phaenomenon' cause I had read about it before.. Projection is all about compromises and these Epson are really no exception (more the opposite it seems). My 'favorites' so far are:
> 
> -Dynamic Mode has best brightness but highest black floor. Best Black during full black screen with the adaptive iris BUT it won't open after these so picture is way to dim for several seconds afterwards = Not usable to me.
> -Dynamic Mode can be dimmed in 'Eco' to -20 which gets a dark picture with better blacks BUT there is immediately brightness pumping happening = not usable to me.
> -Eco Mode makes the projector barely audible (Fan Noise; Shifting Noise is depending on material and can be louder than fans) BUT colours cool down with lower light output + after several lamphours this 'pumping' starts..
> -lens memory doesn't work precisely (as saved).
> -long handshake times ~7 seconds
> - Only good picture/colour modes that work for me are 'digital cinema': For about all movies and 'dynamic': For max. brightness in Games or bright/colourful movies (like cartoons, disney shortfilms)
> 
> It isn't meant as 'complaining' just a bit sad that they implemented stuff that doesn't work properly in it's own/meant way. Not to mention the limitations of black floor which are simply projection,- and LCD technology-based.
> If i zoom in to get almost rid of the bars on top and at the bottom I'm 'okay' with what I see. The next step up would be a HUGE step up in price (JVC NP5) and that's not okay considering what the Epson already offers
> In addition to that maybe 'pixel pusher's' CPL projec
> will help even things out even more
> Any recommendations, tipps are welcome of course.
> 
> Cheers,
> Chris


Videoprocessor.org and thank me later. 

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## DeChris86

jaredmwright said:


> Videoprocessor.org and thank me later.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


Thanks🤑! 
Maybe I'll try a sony x800m2 + hd fury arcana first 😅 Someone reported nice results (for money) in combination with the Epson (but it can't effect lowest black floor ofc) more the colours and near black differentiation ...


----------



## jaredmwright

DeChris86 said:


> Thanks!
> Maybe I'll try a sony x800m2 + hd fury arcana first  Someone reported nice results (for money) in combination with the Epson (but it can't effect lowest black floor ofc) more the colours and near black differentiation ...


I started there also, great pairing. Goodluck!

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Watched "Finch" with Tom Hanks on Apple TV+ last night (nice movie!) using 'digital cinema', with fully opened iris (0) and eco mode+adaptive iris. At about the middle of the movie the lamp flickering (or let's say 'brightness adjusting" began and occured every now and then. My wife noticed it also, annoying. >Switching power mode from eco to medium solved this issue.
> I know about that 'phaenomenon' cause I had read about it before.. Projection is all about compromises and these Epson are really no exception (more the opposite it seems). My 'favorites' so far are:
> 
> -Dynamic Mode has best brightness but highest black floor. Best Black during full black screen with the adaptive iris BUT it won't open after these so picture is way to dim for several seconds afterwards = Not usable to me.
> -Dynamic Mode can be dimmed in 'Eco' to -20 which gets a dark picture with better blacks BUT there is immediately brightness pumping happening = not usable to me.
> -Eco Mode makes the projector barely audible (Fan Noise; Shifting Noise is depending on material and can be louder than fans) BUT colours cool down with lower light output + after several lamphours this 'pumping' starts..
> -lens memory doesn't work precisely (as saved).
> -long handshake times ~7 seconds
> - Only good picture/colour modes that work for me are 'digital cinema': For about all movies and 'dynamic': For max. brightness in Games or bright/colourful movies (like cartoons, disney shortfilms)
> 
> It isn't meant as 'complaining' just a bit sad that they implemented stuff that doesn't work properly in it's own/meant way. Not to mention the limitations of black floor which are simply projection,- and LCD technology-based.
> If i zoom in to get almost rid of the bars on top and at the bottom I'm 'okay' with what I see. The next step up would be a HUGE step up in price (JVC NP5) and that's not okay considering what the Epson already offers 🎥🍿
> In addition to that maybe 'pixel pusher's' CPL projec
> will help even things out even more 👍
> Any recommendations, tipps are welcome of course.
> 
> Cheers,
> Chris


I've been using Medium for HDR and Eco for SDR. I also have a saved mode using High with no iris that I use when powering up and down, on menus, and for anything that is not actual program material. I figure this gives me several minutes on High lamp every time I use it. Maybe that will help alleviate flicker happening. Or maybe not, but it can't hurt.


----------



## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> I've been using Medium for HDR and Eco for SDR. I also have a saved mode using High with no iris that I use when powering up and down, on menus, and for anything that is not actual program material. I figure this gives me several minutes on High lamp every time I use it. Maybe that will help alleviate flicker happening. Or maybe not, but it can't hurt.


I used 'high' a few times to avoid any flickering but last one was a bit time ago i admit (i'm at about 200h on lamp now). Just "comsumes" the lamp a bit faster (lamp aging process). I' ll think about it and try it + eco or just use medium constantly - solely and get higher brightness, better colours in exchange for slightly louder Epson 🤔
Saving a preset for 'high' maybe isn't a bad idea and maybe it can work in any colourmode for selected material which surrounding is already constantly loud(Games?) 👍 For example: God of War Ranarök I could have used 'high' mode. I'm not that sensitive when it's fan noise but when it's shifting noise (depending on thr frequenzy)..


----------



## markymiles

I couldn't be bothered with all the changing of power modes and also occasionally get the bulb flicker in Eco. So just calibrated Med power and iris pretty much fully closed on Natural to get to ~ 50 nits for SDR. Can get away with iris fully open and still use Med for HDR with Dynamic/Natural with some tweaks to the gamma curve.


----------



## DeChris86

Yep, think i'm gonna do the same + 1 preset in 'high' since there is just too little positive in Eco (quieter fans and dimmed picture = ever so slightly better blacks).


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

No reason to run high at all guys.. I am on my 3rd lamp with around 3000hrs on each previous and current just passed 2000hrs ALL at medium lamp, NEVER experienced flicker with this as in not once..
Also, running at eco is like having a ferrari and never running it past 30mph. The image quality on this projector is astonishing for the price and lamps are dirt cheap so do yourself a favor and run at least in medium mode, you should still get a few good 4000hrs on the lamp. The increased fan noise is are best 2db higher in medium, i can barely hear a difference and mine is situated right above my head like 1,5m away.. High lamp mode however is like a hoover running so high is only for 3D.


----------



## biglen

Tsunamijhoe said:


> No reason to run high at all guys.. I am on my 3rd lamp with around 3000hrs on each previous and current just passed 2000hrs ALL at medium lamp, NEVER experienced flicker with this as in not once..
> Also, running at eco is like having a ferrari and never running it past 30mph. The image quality on this projector is astonishing for the price and lamps are dirt cheap so do yourself a favor and run at least in medium mode, you should still get a few good 4000hrs on the lamp. The increased fan noise is are best 2db higher in medium, i can barely hear a difference and mine is situated right above my head like 1,5m away.. High lamp mode however is like a hoover running so high is only for 3D.


"Dirt cheap" is very subjective. Some people may not think $330 for a bulb is dirt cheap. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

biglen said:


> "Dirt cheap" is very subjective. Some people may not think $330 for a bulb is dirt cheap.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well, here it is around 150-180$,and yes dirt cheap is relative, but compared to other brands, Epson lamps are a steal,and since you still get around 4k hrs on medium without any noticeable loss in output, it is a bit silly to run it in eco as the perceived extra longeviety is moot since flickering can ruin the lamp permanently.


----------



## DeChris86

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Well, here it is around 150-180$,and yes dirt cheap is relative, but compared to other brands, Epson lamps are a steal,and since you still get around 4k hrs on medium without any noticeable loss in output, it is a bit silly to run it in eco as the perceived extra longeviety is moot since flickering can ruin the lamp permanently.


Yep, it actually even went up from ~115€ to 150€ now but that's still not much compared to Sony: 300€ and JVC: 450€, so Epson is cheapest by far.
Eco i mainly didn't use to prolong lamp life but to boost black floor along with a quieter projecting.
But i'll put that to rest cause it doesn't make that much of a difference there and the downsides are very obvious. From medium to high there is a Shift in brightness and colours again but it becomes noisy. I think it's pretty nice and usable if pj is behind a wall/glass 👍


----------



## hms17B

Tsunamijhoe said:


> No reason to run high at all guys.. I am on my 3rd lamp with around 3000hrs on each previous and current just passed 2000hrs ALL at medium lamp, NEVER experienced flicker with this as in not once..
> Also, running at eco is like having a ferrari and never running it past 30mph. The image quality on this projector is astonishing for the price and lamps are dirt cheap so do yourself a favor and run at least in medium mode, you should still get a few good 4000hrs on the lamp. The increased fan noise is are best 2db higher in medium, i can barely hear a difference and mine is situated right above my head like 1,5m away.. High lamp mode however is like a hoover running so high is only for 3D.


Good to know, although there seem to be some stories about flicker even using Medium. Hopefully using High from time to time is just knocking on wood. But I never watch actual program material on High since it's just too loud and it raises black up too much. I may keep up the ritual just in case, maybe as a superstition.


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

hms17B said:


> Good to know, although there seem to be some stories about flicker even using Medium. Hopefully using High from time to time is just knocking on wood. But I never watch actual program material on High since it's just too loud and it raises black up too much. I may keep up the ritual just in case, maybe as a superstition.


I have never read or heard about flicker on epson original lamps running medium, did you read it here? If so, do you have a link to the reports?


----------



## hms17B

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I have never read or heard about flicker on epson original lamps running medium, did you read it here? If so, do you have a link to the reports?


Eco was mentioned most, but some weren't clear if it was only Eco. There were also some articles not in AVSForum that also weren't fully clear. Since I don't know for sure, I just try to be cautious.


----------



## biglen

Tsunamijhoe said:


> I have never read or heard about flicker on epson original lamps running medium, did you read it here? If so, do you have a link to the reports?


I think he's confusing it with the low lamp flicker. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## DigitalAV

I'm pretty sensitive to bulb flicker & fwiw I've been using Medium exclusively with zero flicker 500 hours later (original oem bulb)


----------



## sambow87

Is there a way to reset panel alignment completely?


----------



## hms17B

biglen said:


> I think he's confusing it with the low lamp flicker.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Most of what I've seen concerns Eco mode, but I have seen things that suggested that's not always the case. So, not ever having experienced flicker myself, I'm uncertain. I figure a little caution can't hurt. If someone can show that ONLY Eco mode brings on lamp flicker, then I'll forget about trying to prevent it by using High once in a while.


----------



## hms17B

sambow87 said:


> Is there a way to reset panel alignment completely?


Turn it off in the menu and it will go back to its original state.


----------



## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> Most of what I've seen concerns Eco mode, but I have seen things that suggested that's not always the case. So, not ever having experienced flicker myself, I'm uncertain. I figure a little caution can't hurt. If someone can show that ONLY Eco mode brings on lamp flicker, then I'll forget about trying to prevent it by using High once in a while.


Using Eco and having experienced flicker/adjusting even using medium seems to eliminate it.
Theory: So maybe using medium occasionally can help prevent that flicker in eco?
Good panel alignment adjusting (if it's bad by Default) can improve picture... Especially on texts/letters so is on mine. On latest firmware It's said to better kerp it off for 3x shifting: Anymore ever checked that out (comparison 2x vs 3x shift wit p.a. turned off)?

HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone!!! 🥳


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

Anyone know if it is possible to shut off lamp but leave lens cover open? 
A moth flew right in to the projector lens opening and i don't see it, so it must have crawled towards the heat inside the projector, like spiders do, so i was hoping i could shut the lamp off, cover open and try and coax it out with a light so it doesn't end up a dust blob eventually.
Possible?


----------



## PixelPusher15

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Anyone know if it is possible to shut off lamp but leave lens cover open?
> A moth flew right in to the projector lens opening and i don't see it, so it must have crawled towards the heat inside the projector, like spiders do, so i was hoping i could shut the lamp off, cover open and try and coax it out with a light so it doesn't end up a dust blob eventually.
> Possible?


I looked for this before and couldn’t find a way. I wanted it for the filter I rigged up


----------



## Tsunamijhoe

PixelPusher15 said:


> I looked for this before and couldn’t find a way. I wanted it for the filter I rigged up


Damn, ok.. Hope the little son of a gun don't end up a permanent fixture on my image then. Or maybe the damn spider can eat him and vacate the premises with his belly full.


----------



## fredworld

Tsunamijhoe said:


> Damn, ok.. Hope the little son of a gun don't end up a permanent fixture on my image then. Or maybe the damn spider can eat him and vacate the premises with his belly full.


I'm pretty sure you can just manually slide the cover open.


----------



## PixelPusher15

fredworld said:


> I'm pretty sure you can just manually slide the cover open.


Duh, yeah. I’ve done that many times


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Using Eco and having experienced flicker/adjusting even using medium seems to eliminate it.
> Theory: So maybe using medium occasionally can help prevent that flicker in eco?
> Good panel alignment adjusting (if it's bad by Default) can improve picture... Especially on texts/letters so is on mine. On latest firmware It's said to better kerp it off for 3x shifting: Anymore ever checked that out (comparison 2x vs 3x shift wit p.a. turned off)?
> 
> HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone!!! 🥳


Concerning panel alignment, I've never found a full explanation of just how it works, but intersection alignment has to be digital where it shifts pixels around each intersection, which will throw off any 1-to-1 pixel mapping. Whole panel alignment could possibly be a motorized movement of the whole panel up/down and side-to-side, but I'd rather doubt that, and figure it's probably also digital. Likewise corner alignment is probably digital too. If it's all digital, then it's no different from digital keystone adjustment really, and will make a kind of mish-mash of pixel mapping - except for whole panel alignment which ought to shift all the pixels up/down or left/right together which would just move the entire red or blue part of the image relative to green. Therefore, I don't think whole panel alignment should cause any problems, but one might want to avoid corner and intersection. On mine, red is off a bit and whole panel alignment for red gets it close enough that it's no longer noticeable at viewing distance - I could do further intersection alignment to get it even closer, but.it really wouldn't be noticeable except right up close to the screen.


----------



## PixelPusher15

hms17B said:


> Concerning panel alignment, I've never found a full explanation of just how it works, but intersection alignment has to be digital where it shifts pixels around each intersection, which will throw off any 1-to-1 pixel mapping. Whole panel alignment could possibly be a motorized movement of the whole panel up/down and side-to-side, but I'd rather doubt that, and figure it's probably also digital. Likewise corner alignment is probably digital too. If it's all digital, then it's no different from digital keystone adjustment really, and will make a kind of mish-mash of pixel mapping - except for whole panel alignment which ought to shift all the pixels up/down or left/right together which would just move the entire red or blue part of the image relative to green. Therefore, I don't think whole panel alignment should cause any problems, but one might want to avoid corner and intersection. On mine, red is off a bit and whole panel alignment for red gets it close enough that it's no longer noticeable at viewing distance - I could do further intersection alignment to get it even closer, but.it really wouldn't be noticeable except right up close to the screen.


I find the digital zone adjustment to work well for film and it improves sharpness. You can remove color fringing which makes the image soft from a distance. If someone has the patience to do it, it’s not that hard to try zone adjustment and then toggle it on and off and see which they prefer.


----------



## DeChris86

PixelPusher15 said:


> I find the digital zone adjustment to work well for film and it improves sharpness. You can remove color fringing which makes the image soft from a distance. If someone has the patience to do it, it’s not that hard to try zone adjustment and then toggle it on and off and see which they prefer.


I did and it's an improvement. Mine is off in Red fringing aswell and it's better after panel alignment (zones).
Question: Anyone experienced this when doing picture adjustments?:
There is a black bar, or better " black stripe" (at the bottom) in the picture. I had it several times and It's position and width varies, can be middle or at the top aswell. It's only gone when i switch back to the "apple menu" for example.No colour mode switching or anything else does remove it.
Could it be the adaptive iris "getting stuck" ?


----------



## CZ Eddie

I've never touched the HDR settings before last night.
All my HDR viewing until now has been on an HTPC using MadVR to tweak HDR.

But last night I started watching a TV show on my Nvidia Shield/Netflix that uses HDR and found it very dimm.
So, I pulled up the HDR button and went from one side of the slider to the opposite side.
Wow, so much brighter!
Lost some contrast and depth of image though.


----------



## Thalguy

I'm having trouble finding a Chief mount for my 5050. Everyone says to look on Ebay but it looks like I'm only finding the mount, but the plate that mounts to the ceiling is sold separately and still $150. Is there a reliable vendor that I can to?


----------



## hms17B

PixelPusher15 said:


> I find the digital zone adjustment to work well for film and it improves sharpness. You can remove color fringing which makes the image soft from a distance. If someone has the patience to do it, it’s not that hard to try zone adjustment and then toggle it on and off and see which they prefer.


That's true, doing intersection does give the very best alignment, but it also moves the pixels unevenly, some zones more than others depending on how much one adjusts. I currently have mine at whole panel only, but I think I'll also try intersection again since one can save off the results. One bad thing about whole panel is that it shifts every pixel the same which may actually make some worse than they were before. This is one area where I think Epson could have a little more precision in assembly.


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> I did and it's an improvement. Mine is off in Red fringing aswell and it's better after panel alignment (zones).
> Question: Anyone experienced this when doing picture adjustments?:
> There is a black bar, or better " black stripe" (at the bottom) in the picture. I had it several times and It's position and width varies, can be middle or at the top aswell. It's only gone when i switch back to the "apple menu" for example.No colour mode switching or anything else does remove it.
> Could it be the adaptive iris "getting stuck" ?


That fringing is quite annoying, sort of like chromatic aberration or rainbow effect. My red is off enough that it's visible from viewing distance so panel alignment is mandatory for me. As for that black line, never seen anything like that. I've only seen the iris stick in Dynamic mode and then only when it's trying to return after a full black screen. But that blacks out the whole bottom of the image and is not a sharp line.


----------



## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> That fringing is quite annoying, sort of like chromatic aberration or rainbow effect. My red is off enough that it's visible from viewing distance so panel alignment is mandatory for me. As for that black line, never seen anything like that. I've only seen the iris stick in Dynamic mode and then only when it's trying to return after a full black screen. But that blacks out the whole bottom of the image and is not a sharp line.


When it first happened i was heavily shocked as you may imagine..thought it stays and machine is "dead" already but thankfully it can be removed (until now). Will take another photo If it's happening again (maybe thicker black bar/line/stripe then). I also got a dark blue dot on screen but It's hardly to see, so i don't really worry.
Even If the black line occurs again and is here to stay i still have plenty of warranty left (20 months) 👍

Just was curious if this happens to you guys aswell.


----------



## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> When it first happened i was heavily shocked as you may imagine..thought it stays and machine is "dead" already but thankfully it can be removed (until now). Will take another photo If it's happening again (maybe thicker black bar/line/stripe then).
> Even If the black line occurs again and is here to stay i still have plenty of warranty left (20 months) 👍
> 
> Just was curious if this happens to you guys aswell.


It is a bit alarming. As if there weren't enough things to go wrong already.


----------



## Peteredderkop

I've been looking to buy a great projector and got a decent offer for a TW9400/6050ub. The projector has run around 3500 hours but got a new lamp installed recently. Is it dangerous to buy a unit with this many hours on it? Or would it be good for a year or two still?


----------



## studio9400

Hey everyone.

I have a 2.5 year old Epson 5050UB with a weird red flare showing up in dark scenes. It is approximately 10% of the screen width and appears near the upper right corner. It's faint but annoying. Any chance this is a bulb issue? 2100 hours on the current bulb. It's not this bright when viewing a movie. The phone pic brightened it up. I had posted this in another location and it was suggested I defocus the lens to see if it changed...it did not. I would assume this means it's not dust? If it is the LCD panel wouldn't it also change in size or become out of focus? 

Thanks for any help you can offer!


----------



## fredworld

studio9400 said:


> Hey everyone.
> 
> I have a 2.5 year old Epson 5050UB with a weird red flare showing up in dark scenes. It is approximately 10% of the screen width and appears near the upper right corner. It's faint but annoying. Any chance this is a bulb issue? 2100 hours on the current bulb. It's not this bright when viewing a movie. The phone pic brightened it up. I had posted this in another location and it was suggested I defocus the lens to see if it changed...it did not. I would assume this means it's not dust? If it is the LCD panel wouldn't it also change in size or become out of focus?
> 
> Thanks for any help you can offer!
> View attachment 3383119


Does it change size when you:

Defocus in either direction
Zoom in/out
If it's not dust/dirt/hair then it might be a screen issue. It almost looks like a cleaning swipe going down the screen.

PS: if it gets smaller or larger as you defocus, continue to defocus in the direction of smaller until it gets as small as possible. You might have to move focus to its limit.


----------



## studio9400

fredworld said:


> Does it change size when you:
> 
> Defocus in either direction
> Zoom in/out
> If it's not dust/dirt/hair then it might be a screen issue. It almost looks like a cleaning swipe going down the screen.
> 
> PS: if it gets smaller or larger as you defocus, continue to defocus in the direction of smaller until it gets as small as possible. You might have to move focus to its limit.


It changes size with Zooming. It stayed exactly the same when I changed the focus though. I don't understand how it could stay the same when unfocused if it was "inside" the projector. As in the LCD panel.


----------



## fredworld

studio9400 said:


> It changes size with Zooming. It stayed exactly the same when I changed the focus though. I don't understand how it could stay the same when unfocused if it was "inside" the projector. As in the LCD panel.


I don't know either. I suspect that Epson might advise that the optical block needs replacing, necessitating sending them the unit, and in turn they would send it overseas for replacement. That's what I was advised about my dust blobs.
However, I found a fairly local shop that was a formerly authorized Epson repair facility. They told me that Epson's advice is correct but practiced technicians can sometimes remove dust and clean panels without replacing the optics. Usually, such runs $1200-$1500, about the same, possibly a little less, than replacing the optical block. Consequently, I live peacefully with my dust blobs.


----------



## fredworld

studio9400 said:


> It changes size with Zooming. It stayed exactly the same when I changed the focus though. I don't understand how it could stay the same when unfocused if it was "inside" the projector. As in the LCD panel.





fredworld said:


> I don't know either. I suspect that Epson might advise that the optical block needs replacing, necessitating sending them the unit, and in turn they would send it overseas for replacement. That's what I was advised about my dust blobs.
> However, I found a fairly local shop that was a formerly authorized Epson repair facility. They told me that Epson's advice is correct but practiced technicians can sometimes remove dust and clean panels without replacing the optics. Usually, such runs $1200-$1500, about the same, possibly a little less, than replacing the optical block. Consequently, I live peacefully with my dust blobs.


Another thought: have you tried looking closely at the lens? With a bright flashlight from different angles? Wondering if it's a smudge on the lens that can be cleaned with optical lens cleaner and a Kim Wipe.


----------



## studio9400

I can see a red line/flare when I try to look into the projector lens...at an angle. It's definitely coming from inside the projector. I sent EPSON an email with a photo and let them know I have been a customer for years...large printer, and other projector and they have agreed to fix it. Sad that I will be without it for a few weeks. Truly wish there was some magic quick fix so I didn't have to send it away.


----------



## fredworld

studio9400 said:


> I can see a red line/flare when I try to look into the projector lens...at an angle. It's definitely coming from inside the projector. I sent EPSON an email with a photo and let them know I have been a customer for years...large printer, and other projector and they have agreed to fix it. Sad that I will be without it for a few weeks. Truly wish there was some magic quick fix so I didn't have to send it away.


They're going to fix it even 6 months post warranty?! Cheers to Epson!!


----------



## Soze887

Brand New to Me Refurbish from Epson 5050UB USB Trigger Issue for Drop Down Screen 

I am trying to use a USB Trigger for my Projector Screen. Using my laptop for test if I plug it in it blinks then turns red and my screen lowers. Unplug it or turn off laptop screen goes up... Great.

Plug it into either USB on back of 5050UB and it blinks but does nothing else when I power on projector or off. Is there a setting I'm missing or perhaps defective USB ports ?

Thanks


----------



## jaredmwright

Soze887 said:


> Brand New to Me Refurbish from Epson 5050UB USB Trigger Issue for Drop Down Screen
> 
> I am trying to use a USB Trigger for my Projector Screen. Using my laptop for test if I plug it in it blinks then turns red and my screen lowers. Unplug it or turn off laptop screen goes up... Great.
> 
> Plug it into either USB on back of 5050UB and it blinks but does nothing else when I power on projector or off. Is there a setting I'm missing or perhaps defective USB ports ?
> 
> Thanks


What about trying the USB port on your receiver?

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk


----------



## fredworld

P


Soze887 said:


> Brand New to Me Refurbish from Epson 5050UB USB Trigger Issue for Drop Down Screen
> 
> I am trying to use a USB Trigger for my Projector Screen. Using my laptop for test if I plug it in it blinks then turns red and my screen lowers. Unplug it or turn off laptop screen goes up... Great.
> 
> Plug it into either USB on back of 5050UB and it blinks but does nothing else when I power on projector or off. Is there a setting I'm missing or perhaps defective USB ports ?
> 
> Thanks


Perhaps it's a compatibility issue? See this from the manual:

USB Type B port compatibility: USB 1.1 and 2.0 compliant for service and firmware update.
USB Type A port compatibility: Two USB 1.1and 2.0 compliant ports; one for wireless LAN, firmware update, and copying menu settings, and one for optical HDMI cable with 300mA power supply.
I agree with @jaredmwright try the AVR's USB.


----------



## Soze887

fredworld said:


> P
> 
> Perhaps it's a compatibility issue? See this from the manual:
> 
> USB Type B port compatibility: USB 1.1 and 2.0 compliant for service and firmware update.
> USB Type A port compatibility: Two USB 1.1and 2.0 compliant ports; one for wireless LAN, firmware update, and copying menu settings, and one for optical HDMI cable with 300mA power supply.
> I agree with @jaredmwright try the AVR's USB.


I had thought of using the AVR USB however I have a dual purpose theater room sometimes we just use the TV. So this would not be a good resolution . I do have a remote for the screen so its no biggie but it would be cool to have the automation .


----------



## biglen

A thought occurred to me a couple weeks ago that I was really putting a ton of hours on my bulbs by watching regular TV and gaming on my PS5 on my 5050. I decided to get a 65" Sony 4k TV with DV to mount on the side wall in my movie room to use for everyday TV watching/gaming and save the hours on the 5050 strictly for movies. Holy crap was I missing out on the full potential of the PS5. I literally feel like I went from a PS1 to a PS5 because it looks that much better on the Sony.

A couple things that I noticed playing MW2 was that the whites were very washed out on the 5050 and they are pure white on the Sony. When a UAV was in the air I could barely see them on the 5050 but on the Sony I see them in a split second. Also, before a match there's a countdown timer that is white. It was tough to see on the 5050 but on the Sony it is crystal clear and pure white. 

By no means am I bashing the 5050 because movies look stunning when using it. HDR gaming is definitely not a strong suit though. My 5050 was professionally calibrated so that's not the issue with gaming. The 5050 is very good with input lag so that's definitely a plus, but as far as HDR gaming the Sony blows it away. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## PixelPusher15

biglen said:


> A thought occurred to me a couple weeks ago that I was really putting a ton of hours on my bulbs by watching regular TV and gaming on my PS5 on my 5050. I decided to get a 65" Sony 4k TV with DV to mount on the side wall in my movie room to use for everyday TV watching/gaming and save the hours on the 5050 strictly for movies. Holy crap was I missing out on the full potential of the PS5. I literally feel like I went from a PS1 to a PS5 because it looks that much better on the Sony.
> 
> A couple things that I noticed playing MW2 was that the whites were very washed out on the 5050 and they are pure white on the Sony. When a UAV was in the air I could barely see them on the 5050 but on the Sony I see them in a split second. Also, before a match there's a countdown timer that is white. It was tough to see on the 5050 but on the Sony it is crystal clear and pure white.
> 
> By no means am I bashing the 5050 because movies look stunning when using it. HDR gaming is definitely not a strong suit though. My 5050 was professionally calibrated so that's not the issue with gaming. The 5050 is very good with input lag so that's definitely a plus, but as far as HDR gaming the Sony blows it away.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sounds like a lot of HDR tone mapping issues honestly. Progressional cal or not, the 5050 is probably just struggling with that content. I’m not a big gamer but are there hdr settings you can tweak in the game? Have you tried those? Can you disable HDR on the PS5 when connected to the 5050?

Gaming on the TV will be optimal anyway so it may not even matter.


----------



## biglen

PixelPusher15 said:


> Sounds like a lot of HDR tone mapping issues honestly. Progressional cal or not, the 5050 is probably just struggling with that content. I’m not a big gamer but are there hdr settings you can tweak in the game? Have you tried those? Can you disable HDR on the PS5 when connected to the 5050?
> 
> Gaming on the TV will be optimal anyway so it may not even matter.


Yes, I tried disabling HDR on the PS5 but it didn't help with the whites. I don't think the 5050 can get even close to what the PS5 looks like on the Sony. Again, not bashing the 5050. 


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## DeChris86

biglen said:


> A thought occurred to me a couple weeks ago that I was really putting a ton of hours on my bulbs by watching regular TV and gaming on my PS5 on my 5050. I decided to get a 65" Sony 4k TV with DV to mount on the side wall in my movie room to use for everyday TV watching/gaming and save the hours on the 5050 strictly for movies. Holy crap was I missing out on the full potential of the PS5. I literally feel like I went from a PS1 to a PS5 because it looks that much better on the Sony.
> 
> A couple things that I noticed playing MW2 was that the whites were very washed out on the 5050 and they are pure white on the Sony. When a UAV was in the air I could barely see them on the 5050 but on the Sony I see them in a split second. Also, before a match there's a countdown timer that is white. It was tough to see on the 5050 but on the Sony it is crystal clear and pure white.
> 
> By no means am I bashing the 5050 because movies look stunning when using it. HDR gaming is definitely not a strong suit though. My 5050 was professionally calibrated so that's not the issue with gaming. The 5050 is very good with input lag so that's definitely a plus, but as far as HDR gaming the Sony blows it away.
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes i can really imagine that!
My LG TV in living room is not good at all, it's a cheap model so the ub6050 is not far away in terms of performance but i think movies will look much better on your sony compared to our Epsons aswell 😅
I started playing 'ghost of thushima' on my ps4 pro on 6050 and it looks 'good' but i know it could look better on a good TV or projector at a higher price point of course. When comparing projector vs TV- here is a sample taken out of 'alien covenant':


















Now: Can you tell what's the Epson and what's the TV? 🍿🎥


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## biglen

DeChris86 said:


> Yes i can really imagine that!
> My LG TV in living room is not good at all, it's a cheap model so the ub6050 is not far away in terms of performance but i think movies will look much better on your sony compared to our Epsons aswell
> I started playing 'ghost of thushima' on my ps4 pro on 6050 and it looks 'good' but i know it could look better on a good TV or projector at a higher price point of course. When comparing projector vs TV- here is a sample taken out of 'alien covenant':
> 
> View attachment 3384755
> 
> View attachment 3384766
> 
> 
> Now: Can you tell what's the Epson and what's the TV?


I'm assuming the Epson is the one with the blueish tint in the pics? Also, the Sony has DV. DV material looks insane. 


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## DeChris86

biglen said:


> I'm assuming the Epson is the one with the blueish tint in the pics? Also, the Sony has DV. DV material looks insane.
> sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Well: NO, second and brighter one actually is the epson!
The warmer tone just comes from camera, it's not like that in person. And that first picture shows an OLED C1 LG from a friend. 
Tuned the settings and in general it's quiet a good picture quality overall using digital cinema (scifi) natural (Games, Series like 'desperate housewives') and dynamic (only for colourful movies: Disney+) 🎥🍿

















































Cheers,
Chris


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## hms17B

DeChris86 said:


> Well: NO, second and brighter one actually is the epson!
> The warmer tone just comes from camera, it's not like that in person. And that first picture shows an OLED C1 LG from a friend.
> Tuned the settings and in general it's quiet a good picture quality overall using digital cinema (scifi) natural (Games, Series like 'desperate housewives') and dynamic (only for colourful movies: Disney+) 🎥🍿
> View attachment 3385363
> 
> View attachment 3385362
> 
> View attachment 3385365
> 
> View attachment 3385364
> 
> View attachment 3385370
> 
> View attachment 3385369
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Chris


Are you showing us that black on your screen is actually as dark as the room? I find that impossible to believe. When I display a very dark screen it is always lighter than the room no matter what settings I use. The only time I can get a truly deep black is when the iris shuts all the way down on a pure black screen, but even a small amount of light in the image makes the iris open up enough that black is no longer black. I just can't believe that all the screenshots showing black performance are accurate. The camera must be under exposing the black in order to capture the bright portions..


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## DeChris86

hms17B said:


> Are you showing us that black on your screen is actually as dark as the room? I find that impossible to believe. When I display a very dark screen it is always lighter than the room no matter what settings I use. The only time I can get a truly deep black is when the iris shuts all the way down on a pure black screen, but even a small amount of light in the image makes the iris open up enough that black is no longer black. I just can't believe that all the screenshots showing black performance are accurate. The camera must be under exposing the black in order to capture the bright portions..


Yep that's true, it's the issue of taking pictures (photos) of a screen just like the color on the 'alien' intro scene (blue eye) showed.
Sadly it isn't that great black level in 'reality' (you have to look closely to see it) but cause of settings (mostly gammatones turned down in near black + color offsets and so on) and maybe a bit lamp aging- reducing the light output and resulting in -bit better- black floor.
"Even" my wife statet that picture looks very good (better) now.
I think that if the CPL works and doesn't 'kill' too much light we all can achieve a pleasing overall picture quality with our Epson for sure.
For games i even use high output mode now (ghost of tsushima). It works for games with constant ambient sound and the PS4pro is noisy anyway so Epsons fan noise isn't that obvious anymore 😅


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